The immovable East : studies of the people and customs of Palestine

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THE

IMMOVABLE EAST

STUDIES OF THE PEOPLE
AND CUSTOMS OF PALESTINE

BY

PHILIP J. BALDENSPERGER

Edited with a Biographical Introduction

BY

FREDERIC LEES

WITH TWENTY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS

" Slowly they wind athwart the wild, and while young Day his anthem
swells,
Sad falls upon my yearning ear the tinkling of the Camel-bells."

The Kasidah of H&ji Abdii el-Yezdt.

LONDON: SIR ISAAC PITMAN & SONS, LTD.
No. 1 AMEN CORNER, E.C. . . . 1913

Printed by Sir Isaac Pitmak
& Sons, Ltd., London, Bath,
AND New York . . 1913

CONTENTS

PAGE

INTRODUCTION VU

I. THE GREY TRIO 1

II. IN THE BEDAWIN COUNTRY 23

III. SONS OF THE PHILISTINES 50

IV. EHMAD IMHAMAD'S VISION 71

V. THE GARDENS OF SOLOMON 98

VI. MURDER AND MARRIAGE IN URTAS . . .115

VII. IBRAHIM'S WEALTH 127

VIII. AN EYE FOR AN EYE 139

IX. LAIL 153

X. CREATURES IN COUNCIL 175

XI. THE LADY OF HER BRETHREN 197

XII. TAX-GATHERING IN NIMRIN ....... 208

XIII. THE WOOING OF SABHA 218

XIV. SONG AND DANCE IN THE EAST .... 247
XV. THEN AND NOW 278

INDEX 297

vx

LIST OF ILLUSTRx\TIONS

TOWER OF DAVID, MOUNT ZION, GIHON, AND PLAIN OF

REPHAiM , . . . . . . Frontispiece

facing
page
6

PLOUGHING IN JUD-iEA ....

A FELLAH AND HIS CAMELS ON THE BANKS OF THE
A BEDAWI OF THE KISHON ...

BY THE DEAD SEA ....

A LINE OF CAMELS ....

DOME OF THE ROCK, JERUSALEM

A DERVISH ......

GROTTO OF ELIJAH, MT. CARMEL

DOME OF THE ASCENSION

MAP OF GARDENS OF SOLOMON AND ENVIRONS

A SHEPHERD ....

SOLOMON'S POOLS AND CARAVANSARY

JAFFA GATE .....

PLAIN OF JERICHO AND DEAD SEA, FROM OLIVET

BEDAwIn TENT, VALLEY OF ACHOR

A STREET IN JERUSALEM

SHEPHERD AND SHEEP, NEAR JERUSALEM .

DAN, SOURCE OF THE JORDAN .

SILOAM FELLAHAT GOING TO JERUSALEM

FELLAHAT OF BATTIR GOING TO MARKET

A NElY^, OR ZOOMARA

NEBY MOOSA PROCESSION AND HOLY STANDARD

TOWER OF RAMLEH ....

MAP OF PALESTINE .....

KISHON

12

32

40

56

68

74

90

94

100

102

106

132

140

152

164

168

178

236

240

250

266

294

2^6

INTRODUCTION

Books descriptive of the East may be roughly
divided into three classes. First, there are the
volumes of ** Impressions " of hterary men who
set themselves the difficult task, after a more or
less lengthy stay in the Orient, of faithfully
representing Oriental scenes, manners and cus-
toms. These are interesting principally on
account of their authors — they are vivid, personal
interpretations of Eastern life by men of unde-
niable power of observation and descriptive skill.
Intended more for the general reader than the
student, these impressionistic studies serve the
useful purpose of reveahng the brilliant and
ever-fascinating surface of the East. Rarely do
they take us to its depths. To gain a deeper
knowledge of Orientahsm, we must go to a second
category of books, — those written by professional
Orientalists, whose special linguistic studies and
extensive travels entitle them to be ranked as
authorities. But here again these writers do not
tell us all. They too often view the Orient through
Occidental eyes, and in certain vital respects fail to
paint the picture in its true colours. Only by
Orientals — or by those whose long sojourn in the
East has formed their minds after the Oriental
pattern — can the Orient be adequately described.

viii INTRODUCTION

This third and necessarily small class of works
is the one which must ever hold the place of
honour on our book-shelves.

The following essays and stories belong, I claim,
to this last special category of Oriental literature.
Mr. Philip J . Baldensperger, owing to the pecuhar
circumstances of his career, is able to tell the
story of the Fellahin and Bedawin as an Oriental
would tell it. As his collaborator, the late Claude
Reignier Conder, the author of Tent Work in
Palestine^ once said, ** He is ' a voice from the
East,' " — an accurate witness to many interesting
and almost unknown sides of hfe in Palestine.
Few men, as his biography shows, have had such
excellent opportunities as he for accumulating
facts regarding the people and customs of the
Holy Land.

His father, Henry Baldensperger, of Balden-
heim, Alsatia, was sent to Jerusalem in 1848 as
a missionary of the Basel Spittler Mission. His
mother, from Niederbronn, Alsatia, joined his
father soon afterwards in Jerusalem, where they
were married. Penetrated by the behef that they
were called, under the protection of Divine
providence, to teach the people of Palestine better
ways, not by preaching the Word, but by exem-
plary life and work, Mr. and Mrs. Baldensperger
soon left the Basel Spittler Mission to undertake
an independent one of their own among the natives.
They bought land and built a house in the village

INTRODUCTION ix

of Urtas, on the borders of the Desert of Judaea, —
a spot where the villagers had abandoned every-
thing for fear of the continual incursions of the
neighbouring Ta'amry Bedawin. But on the
Anglican Bishop Gobat founding a school for
Arab orphan boys on Mount Zion, in Jerusalem,
he appealed to the Baldenspergers for temporary
help as stewards, and it was only forty-four years
afterwards that they retired again to Urtas.
Meanwhile, their children were growing up. Philip
Baldensperger was bom on June 5th, 1856, in
Zion's School, built on the ruins and rockscarp
of an old fortress attributed to King David, —
buildings owned by the Mission, and where natives
are still educated by the Church Missionary
Society. Mr. Palmer, a German, was headmaster,
and there were also native teachers for Arabic.

The majority of the sixty or seventy boys were
Arabs. As the school lay outside the present
walls of Jerusalem, the pupils went to Christ's
Church, inside the walls by Zion's Gate, on Sundays
and feast days. The official language in the
schoolroom was English, but Arabic was always
used outside. Within the family circle German
was spoken, though French was always held in
honour. Thus did Philip, his brothers and sister
become acquainted from their earliest years with
four tongues.

Henry Baldensperger never forgot the dream
of his youth. In 1869 he sent Philip and an elder

X INTRODUCTION

brother to Uitas to survey the lands he owned in
Phihstia, in Moab and in the Jordan Valley.
The two youths thus passed many of their early
days on horseback, riding across the country north
and south, east and west, exclusively among
Bedawin and Fellahin, in the camp and in the
village, and considered almost as natives.

After the Franco-Prussian War, PhiUp Balden-
sperger volunteered to the country of his ancestors,
in view of regaining Alsace, and was in the cavalry
(Chasseurs de France) from 1875 to 1880. But
he was glad to return to Palestine again, where
from 1880 to 1892 he principally devoted himself
to pastoral apiculture, carrying the bees from
Jaffa to Jerusalem, or from Hebron to the Gaza
district. His father kept bees on Zion and in
the old castle above Solomon's Pools beyond
Bethlehem, in the old clay hives of immemorial
model. An English minister in search of bees,
meeting him by chance, gave him a copy of the
British Bee Journal, the first bee-paper he had
ever seen. But he was too busy in the orphanage
to devote himself to apiculture. However, when,
later, in 1880, Mr. D. A. Jones, of Beeville, Canada,
and Mr. Frank Benton, of the United States, came
to Jerusalem for the study and exportation of
Oriental bees, Henry Baldensperger was once more
appealed to as a ** bee-keeper." Phihp's four
brothers did not much care for the idea of this
branoh of agriculture until he came back from

INTRODUCTION xi

France and went to Beyrut to meet Mr. Benton,
with whom he stayed many months and thoroughly
learned apiculture at the apiaries he had estab-
lished in Cyprus and Syria for breeding queens to
send to England and the United States. It was
then that Philip Baldensperger's four brothers
abandoned their other agricultural work, let out
the family lands on hire, and devoted themselves
exclusively to bee-keeping. The five brothers were
associated in pastoral bee-keeping for several years,
travelling up and down the country, carrying the
hives and portable wooden houses on the backs
of camels from the plains to the hills in summer,
and back to the sea-district in winter ; camping
and fighting the mosquitoes and the fever — a
consequence of roaming about in unhealthy marshy
places — as well as the vile tax-gatherers and
Turkish officials ; now standing to face these
despicable functionaries or escaping with bees,
camels and everything else to another Pachahk ;
losing bees and camels in the wildest of adventures,
often caused by a hive suddenly thrown to the
ground by one of the camels, spreading death
and destruction on roads and passes, leaving
donkey or mule dead by the wayside or pushing
camels and horses as well as terror-stricken Arab
assistants into caves for shelter against the
infuriated insects. Disgusted by the officials'
odious vexations and injustice, two of the Balden-
sperger brothers left the country, carrying part

xii INTRODUCTION

of their hives and apparatus with them to Algeria.
Another was drowned whilst bathing in the sea
at Jaffa. Finally, Philip, exhausted by fever
and doubtful of ever being able to change the
mentality of the natives in the " immovable East,"
himself abandoned the task and, with his wife,
an American whom he had married in 1883, and
his children, came, in 1892, to Nice, leaving an
only brother to continue bee-keeping in Palestine.
The brothers who had gone to Algeria were soon
glad to return home again, for Palestine is still
" the land flowing with milk and honey." Two
have died since Philip Baldensperger's departure
to France, and again an only one is left, carrying
his bees about as in the early years and with much
better success, as the Turkish officials have become
more accommodating.

Naturally, Philip Baldensperger's first literary
work concerned bees and bee-keeping. The
British Bee Journal, Gleanings, French and German
periodicals have pubhshed a multitude of con-
tributions from his pen. His first article on
Palestine appeared in 1883 in a German-Hebrew
book, entitled Jerusalem, edited by a blind Jew,
A. Luncz. Since 1893 he has been a regular
contributor to the " Quarterly Statement " of
the Palestine Exploration Fund, writing princi-
pally on the unchangeable manners and customs
of the people of the Holy Land. Many writers
and travellers in the East have referred to these

INTRODUCTION xiii

scattered writings during the last twenty years,
whilst Palestine Exploration Societies as well as
authors have acknowledged the value of his
observations. Among those who have cited him
in their books are Mrs. A. Goodrich Freer, author
of Inner Jerusalem, Mr. S. S. Curtiss, Professor
of Old Testament Literature and Interpretation,
of Chicago Theological Seminary, Professor R. A.
Stewart Macalister, author of The Excavation of
Gezer, and Dr. F. J. Bliss, who, on behalf of the
Palestine Exploration Fund, collaborated with Mr.
Macalister in exploration work in the Holy Land.
Even in the Hebrew schools at Jerusalem some
of Philip Baldensperger's ethnological notes serve
as a text-book under the title The Land of Israel :
Present and Past (" Arz Yeshrael ha-yom wa
lafneem "), — a volume of extracts from con-
tributions to the " Quarterly Statement " between
1904 and 1906.

The object of the work undertaken by Mr.
Baldensperger and myself — and I would say at
the outset that The Immovable East is in no way
a rechauffe of previously published papers — is to
give the general public the benefit of his intimate
knowledge of Palestine, studied with the Bible
in hand and under auspices rarely to be enjoyed
by Europeans, since the facts here recorded can
only be gathered in the company of natives, and
out of the beaten track of tourists, who only hear
and see in hotels, on railways, or with caravans

xiv INTRODUCTION

through the ears and eyes of their Dragomans,
and who thus only half lift the veil which
hangs between the Occidental visitor and the
authentic land of the Bible — a land which is not
even known to the modem Jews themselves.
Our aim is also to show how intimately the three
Mediterranean religions have taken root in the
same country, on the same traditions and in the
same language, basing their unity on the remote
past, still hngering in one common belief, in the
Jew, Christian or Mohammedan, not only as
regards the shrines of Abraham and the patriarchs,
Rachel, the prophets Samuel, Elijah, Isaiah,
Zechariah, and so forth, — equally venerated by
the three, — but in addition in a more immovable
form in the occult world, or ghost-land, which
differs from that of the past not even in smallest
details. Just as Saul himself, when officially
persecuting wizards and witches, went secretly
to enquire of the witch at Endor, who brought
up the "gods ascending out of the earth" (I.
Samuel xxviii. 13-14) and Samuel in a mantle,
so will the modern Canaanites (now Moslems)
search out those with familiar spirits, who in turn
see Genii (or gods) arise out of the earth with green
mantles and white beards. If a Canaanite who
died centuries before Joshua's invasion of the
land could arise again after a repose of 4,000 years
and not know that Baal has been changed, his
altars given over to Jehovah's servants, who in

INTRODUCTION xv

their turn handed them on to Greeks and Romans,
the followers of Christ, and finally to the Moslems,
— if that Canaanite wished to visit his sanctuaries
he would find the venerated spot on Ebal still a
place of devotion to the Samaritan Jews (now
only about 150 persons in all), he would see Greek
and Roman Catholic Christians go out in pro-
cession to Baal's altar on Mount Carmel. More-
over, he would perceive that every movement of
the worshippers is the same : bowing, dancing,
knife-cutting, sacrifices to the Saint. The only
difference he would observe would be in the name.
Ehjah has taken the place of Baal. Rushing to
the sacred platform of the Baal-Shamim in
Jerusalem, again he would see numerous pilgrims
in gaudy dresses sacrificing to AUah and his
prophet Mohammed. He would avoid big centres
to see his " green heights " far away from modern
Moslem and Christian civilisation and look for
the statue in the temple of Ashteroth in the lovely
grove on the hill beyond the plain of Rephaim.
Quietly he would enter and gladly see that nothing
is changed. The small oil lamp in honour of
his beloved goddess is still burning in the niche,
but it is the Bedariyeh, the Moslem Aurora, who
has taken the weU-known place. Flying through
the air, he would go north to Safed and find Jews
dancing wildly around their sanctuaries, throwing
shawls and clothing into the fire, drinking and
howling, certainly in honour of Baal. How strange

xvi INTRODUCTION

that Canaanite's experience would be, and yet
how very famihar everything would be to him !
The towns bear the same names, the ancient
sacred spots are still venerated, the holy waters
are stiU visited, even if the saint has slightly
changed his name. No, after aU, our Canaanite
could not, I think, but feel quite at home. The
houses are built in the same way as when he trod
the earth, the furniture is the same, the people, in
spite of an outward change of reUgion, think just
as his ancestors thought when Canaan was a land
of many kings. If he were to go to Salem to see
if some hospitable Melchisedek, Priest of the Most
High, would offer the Stranger bread and drink
as was the habit in his days (Genesis xiv. 18),
he would find that an astonished Abd-el-^Hei-ben
Sadek, a Moslem Imam, would offer him hospitality
in the old, old way on the roof of the mosque. If he
were to remember the small salt lake in the south
which by its underground volcanoes on the Plain
of Siddim encroached on the surrounding towns,
destroying parts here and there, forming bitumen
pits into which strangers slipped easily (Genesis
xiv. 10), he would wonder, on finding the immense
sea some forty miles in length and nine in
breadth, what has happened. But shades of the
Sodomites of the catastrophe period would join
him and tell him that in the " immovable East "
even this Dead Sea continues as in his days to
destroy first the four towns and later on Zoar,

INTRODUCTION xvii

and that it is still killing and destroying animal
life, forests and inhabitants, so that for miles and
miles every town and village has disappeared.
Then would the ghostly Stranger acknowledge
that this land is reaUy his own Canaan, and would
retire contented to await the time when, centuries
hence, he will make another tour of inspection.

Finally, our object has been to show that if a
few names of places have been changed and
confused, as Salem and Morah in Samaria, which
were transported to Jerusalem, and Moriah in
Judea for political reasons, yet thousands of
villages hav€ retained their names in Bethel,
Bethlehem, Beersheba, Hebron, Gaza, Jaffa and
Akka. Moreover, ancient manners and customs,
parts of clothing, articles of common use and
household furniture are still to be seen in spite
of terrible and lengthy invasions from Egypt
and Assyria, Greece and Rome, and in spite of
the struggle between the Crescent and the Cross.
The old Canaanite and his habits have outlived
every nation and religion with their vices and
their virtues. His was the most tenacious of all
races. His descendents still reward in the old
way, giving animals as a recompense, like Pharaoh
and Abimelech (Genesis xx. 14), or changes of
garment, as Naaman, the Syrian, did to Gehazi
(II. Kings xxxiii. 4) ; burying the dead near
sanctuaries, hke the patriarchs in Macpelah out
of the sight of the camp (Genesis xxiii. 4) ;

2 — (2131)

xviii INTRODUCTION

paying for brides or serving a term of seven years
as shepherds (Genesis xxix. 20) ; writing verses
on their standards according to the ancestor's
signs and colours, hke the tribes in the desert
(Numbers ii. 2) ; or leading the sacrifice to a
sanctuary for a vow, just like Samuel did in
Bethlehem (I. Samuel xvi. 5). Travellers in
Palestine can still find the prisons near Governors'
palaces in every important town and see prisoners
unshaven and unkempt, like Joseph or Jeremiah,
pass through Gibeah ; they can stiU visit places
where there are unfriendly faces, — where no man,
just as in the old days (Judges xix. 15), will
receive the native-foreigner even for a lodging ;
they can still, on the other hand, on going further
south, encounter people who are as hospitable as
in the days of the Judges.

The ordinary visitor to the Holy Land is shown
the so-called traditional " Holy Places," which
very often have been invented for the necessities
of communities established there, but he never
or rarely steps aside to meet men hving in tents
as Abraham and Sarah lived, or to go to marriages
where he would see a ceremonial dating from the
days of Jacob. It is hoped that the following
pages will induce him to venture from the beaten
track and discover that the Bible was really
written in this " immovable East," and that,
with a competent guide, he can hear for himself
the stories of bygone days. If we succeed in

INTRODUCTION xix

doing that, and at the same time have written a
useful commentary on the Bible and its days,
we shall feel that our labour has not been in
vain.

Frederic Lees.

Cagnes, A.m., December 8th, 1912.

THE IMMOVABLE EAST

I

THE GREY TRIO

I

Palestine is the land of greyness. Not* only are
you struck by the grey and eternal olive-trees,
which spring up again from the roots when cut
down and form new trees ; by the grey rocks ; the
partridges and pigeons which climb and fly about
the boulders in search of food, or fall a prey to
numerous grey or dark rapacious birds, but most
of all are you impressed by the grey-clad archaic
Fellahin, the grey ruins on every ancient site
and the grey quick-moving Haradin : those three
Hving witnesses of the remote days when biblical
events were first set down in words. ^ At almost

1 Let me say, in explanation of a few Arabic words which are
used throughout the following pages, that Fellah (Cultivator)
is masculine singular, Fellaha feminine singular, Fellahin mascu-
line plural and Fellahit feminine plural. Kliirby signifies a
ruin and Kharaib ruins. They must not be confounded with
Kirby and Kirrub, the singular and plural for leather water-bottle.
Harddn and Haradin are the singular and plural forms for the
Stellio-agamide lizard, Stellio cordylina ; whilst the singular and
plural for shirt are Thob and Thiab. In view of the fact that the
nomadic tribes are known to English readers as Bedouins, or
Bedawin, I have retained the latter spelling, although the late
Claude Reignier Conder, the author of Tent Work in Palestine
and other invaluable works on the East, agreed with me that the
correct form was Bedu. The feminine singular of this word is
Bedawiye, the feminine plural Bedawiyat.

2 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

every step, when you go to the denuded grey hills
of the Holy Land, do you meet this grey and well-
nigh inseparable trio. Within the shelter of a
ruin, perched on a hillock or mountain top and
telling the eternal tale of grandeur and decadence,
the Fellah makes his home and installs his herds.
Man and beast live in close community. A single
room serves as kitchen, reception-room and bed-
chamber,— a room provided very often with but
one door and only occasionally a window, and the
floor of which consists of two levels : the upper
one for the owner, stretched, at night, on a straw
mat or a carpet, the lower one for the animals.
Sometimes, during the long winter nights, the
latter are sheltered in a neighbouring cave, but
more often the shepherd and his flocks are together
in the same chimneyless, smoky habitation. An
enclosure, protected by thorny hedges, surrounds
them, and there, in the midst of refuse and manure
and vermin, they live in peace and contentment,
side by side with their faithful companion the
Harden. You can see him on any sunny day, if
you are careful to watch long enough and quietly,
on the look-out for flies and insects near the dung-
hill ; or else, lying at the top of a conspicuous stone
or rock, shaking the fore part of his body and lifting
his triangular head as though in a trembhng fit-
of prayer, until, warned by a sound of your pre-
sence, he darts away and hides in his hole in the
crumbling ruins.

THE SEVEN NATIONS 3

Nothing is so worthy of study, on the part of
those who seek an illustration of the Bible nar-
rative, as this grey trio. For is it not evident that
the Book was written by immediate ancestors of
the Fellahin ? Are not the Fellahin themselves
and their ruins the best proof of this ? Do not
even the exaggerations and mystico-religious tales
of the Bible point to the same conclusion ? — But
how comes it, then, that Jeremiah, Amos, Micah
and other lesser prophets, who give us the most
minute and accurate descriptions of nearly every-
thing else, never mention the Fellahin ? The
omission is, I think, easily explainable.

It is said that when the Israelites under Joshua
invaded Palestine they found seven principal
nations occupying the southern and central moun-
tains,— nations which, in order to show the great-
ness of the conquest, were enumerated as Amorites,
Hittites, Perizzites, Hivites, Canaanites, Rephaims
and Jebusites. But in my opinion these so-caUed
nations were but groups of a single race, generally
designated as Amorites, — tribes exercising differ-
ent employments in one social agglomeration, with
commanders or kings at every important town.
The Amorites, or Speakers, were the leading fami-
lies, who discussed the convenience of declaring
war or of resisting the onslaughts of an enemy.
The Hittites were the soldiers, ready to fight the
nation's battles at a moment's warning. The
Perizzites, or Villagers, were the peaceful country

4 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

folk, willing to take up arms, if necessary, but
usually merely asking to be allowed to work and
live tranquilly under their vines and fig-trees. The
Hivites, or Encerclers, belonged to the Dervish
class, were skilled in the art of magic and, like the
modern Hawi, were serpent-charmers. The
Canaanites — an important factor in the national
life — were merchants, carrying goods and news
from place to place. The Rephaims, or Giants,
were the healers ; they were also called Jabburim,
and, like the modern Jabbar, excelled in the art
of curing broken limbs. Finally, the Jebusites
were, as their name implies, the Drylanders, —
a group worthy of mention not because they were
more of a nation than the inhabitants of other
towns but because they resisted the invaders for
at least four centuries after all Judah had come
under Hebrew domination.

As soon as the Hebrews had settled down or
been absorbed by the older inhabitants, the people
of Palestine mostly lived in a Perez, or village,
and became an agricultural nation. But the
name under which they were known — Perizzites —
was a term of scorn, used to designate idolaters
and enemies of the new regime. ^ It was not until

* History furnishes us with many similar examples of the ori-
ginal name of agriculturist being used to indicate people of past
religions and as synonymous with anti-progressist. In England
the refractory inhabitants of the heath were denominated as
heathen ; in Germany, they became Heide ; in France the dweller
in the country {pays) became a paysan, or, as he was called in old
French, a paten, — a pagan.

THE KAFIR 5

later, when they had adopted the name of Hebrews
or Israehtes as a whole, that their name was
changed into that of Fellahin. Their story formed
a parallel to that of the villagers of Arabia. These
inhabitants of the Kefr, on Mohammed proclaiming
Islam from the towns of Mecca and Medina, were
at first refractory to the new faith, with the result
that every infidel was styled an agriculturist or
Kafir. But on the whole nation adopting the
Prophet's teachings the term of opprobrium was
changed to that of cultivator, — they became
Fellahin, a word based on the verb filhy to
cultivate.

There was no place in the new Israelitic nation
for the ambitious Amorite or the warlike Hittite,
and the only wish of the Perizzite was to live in
peace in the home of his forefathers, carrying on
traditions, cementing his attachment to the soil,
sacrificing in the Makam, or High-place, or Wely,
going to every green tree, — in short, continuing
the old forms of worship, praying to the presiding
genius, with a slight change, sometimes, in the
name, but caring little whether it was before a
statue of some Baal or an invisible one called
Sidna ^Ali or Sheikh 'Alem. Invasions swept
over towns, the Amorites and the Jebusites
disappeared, but the poor and continually robbed
Perizzite clung fast to his crumbling ruins. Like
the grey lichens on the old stones, he remained
attached to the cradle of his ancestors, disdained

6 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

by the proud horseman, who, following the easier
roads of the valleys, rarely visited the almost
inaccessible and barren heights. Submitting out-
wardly to passing lords and masters, whose very
tongue was unknown to him, the Perizzite remained
faithful about the hearth and in the smoke-filled
low rooms of his ruined home to the ways of his
forefathers. We find the former niche of the idol
represented by the Makam, and the modem
Fellah " hears the voice " as distinctly as
Moses or Joshua did, and " puts off his shoes
from off his feet, for the place whereon he
stands is holy ground." ^ Never will he venture
into the sanctuary with shoes which have gathered
dust and impurities all along his way. Thus
were traditional sites and ceremonies handed down,
and thus are we able to study the immovable
characteristics of the Fellahin of Palestine, — char-
acteristics which may perhaps (who can say ?)
be about to succumb now, as the overflowing
populations of the Occident strive to fill the
uninhabited corners of the earth and overthrow
traditions which have resisted foreign influence
for thousands of years.

II

Legend relates that, when Islam was founded, a
man had four sons and gave to each of them
according to his desire. The eldest was Abu

* Exodus iii. 5.

to/)

A TRUE TRADITIONALIST 7

Ehmad, the Fellah, who asked for a cow and a
plough, and became the father of the Fellahin.
Abu Razek, the next, asked for a shop and became
the father of town and city traders. Abu Othman,
the third, received a horse and was the father of
the intrepid Ottoman horsemen. Abu Swelem,
the last, rode off on a camel and became the
chief of the camel-possessing Bedawin. ^ Evidently
Abu Ehmad is the most ancient inhabitant of
Palestine and has held to traditions much more
than his brothers the horsemen and traders. A
true son of the soil, he is distrustful of outsiders
and, like the Harden, retires behind his crumbling
ruins at the approach of a horseman. The
Jindy, or Gendarme, is never the bringer of good
news. He looks for culprits, announces that
taxes are to be gathered, counts the heads of cattle
and sheep, or inquires about the young men who
are fit for military service. Abu Ehmad, though
not a bit revolutionary, is a hater of innovations ;
his only wish is to be left under his vine and
fig-tree undisturbed, as in the days when there
was no king in Israel. He cares nothing about
immense financial speculations, the preparation
of formidable arsenals of war, the sinking of mines,
the construction of factories and the building of
houses possessing hygienic conditions. He seeks
neither to accumulate incommensurable wealth

1 Quarterly Statement of the Palestine Exploration Fund,
January, 1903.

8 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

nor to obtain even a modicum of comfort. He is
ignorant of modern astronomy and geology,
history and geography, zoology and microbiology,
in an Occidental sense. But he is sober to the
extreme. Never does he use wine or strong drink,
as he was commanded by Jonadab the son of
Rechab. * He would be unable to understand
if you told him that milhons are annually expended
in the Occident at cafes, pubUc-houses and saloons.
A single tiny cup of coffee is almost luxury to him ;
his everyday meal consists of a simple plate of
rice, with fresh meat and a few vegetables only on
rare and quite extraordinary occasions.

The steep, rough and rocky roads have been the
Fellah's best auxiUary for keeping away foreigners
and holding ideas in check for centuries. Watch him
as he drives his camels up and down these terrible
roads and you will no longer wonder that progress
has been so slow. He is continually reminding
his beasts of burden not to stumble. *' Ikhly ! —
Look out, mind the stones ! " " Allah ! —
May God protect thee ! " " Mahlak ! — Slow
up!" "Ya Hafed!— Oh Guardian!" and
similar exclamations are repeated every few yards.
But the roads — never mended, the result of
centuries of footsteps and of infinite patience, for
does not the Fellah say " El Ajjaly min esh-
Shitan ? — Allah is with the patient and hurry
is from Satan " — are quite as good as he desires.

* Jeremiah xxxv. 6. ,

ROUGH ROADS 9

hey are full of convenient holes, made by genera-
tion after generation of animals, and which prevent
them from shpping. The camels, with their soft
feet and ever mobile head and eyes, are ever on the
look out for the best place ^to step into, whilst
donkeys and cattle know exactly every excavation
or protuberance as they slowly march along.
Besides, these rough ways serve another purpose.
No one can approach the villages unawares. For ^*
centuries past the villagers have heard the strug- ^
gUng efforts of horsemen as they drew nearer,
have seen, in the darkness of the night, the sparks
fly from the rocks when struck by their horses'
shoes.

Who can doubt that the ancient Perizzite climbed
these hills with the same resignation as the modern
Fellah, and in the identical costume we see to-day ?
Who can doubt, after a sufficiently long residence
in the midst of the Fellahat, that the Perizzite
women thus went down, with gay laughter, to the
spring at the foot of the hill, carrying, besides the
well-balanced jar on the head, or the Kirby on the
back, the family clothes, to be beaten on the smooth
stones of the stream and rid of their accumulation
of sweat, fleas and smoke ? Did not the ances-
tresses of this Fellaha girl thus lift their skirts
to the knees and ask permission of the Water-
genius to step in ? Watch her. As she arrives
at the edge of the brook she at once drops her
bundle of clothes and the Kirby and proceeds to

10 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

her toilet. After knotting her long sleeves together
and throwing them behind her back, leaving
her brown and well-proportioned arms bare to
above the elbows, she rubs her small feet and
rounded calves vigorously ; then, with her joined
hollowed hands she throws the fresh water — her
silver and glass bracelets tinkling musically —
into her weather-browned face. She dries herself
with her long veil, and when this is done begins,
with rhythmic blows, the work of the day. By the
time the clothes are washed and rinsed the dry
Kirby is soaked through and through. Dexter-
ously, with one hand, the neck is opened, and
rapidly, with the right hollowed hand, water is
thrown into the leather bottle. When full, a
rope is attached to the top and the bottom, and
upon her back — hke a soldier's knapsack — it is
carried home to quench the thirst of the
household.

Ill

As a rule, the Fellahin are dark brown, black-
haired and have long, broad beards, differing in
this respect from the Bedawin, whose beards are
scanty and adorn the chin only. Certainly, in a
country so often invaded by outsiders, there is a
tinge of foreign blood. Here and there, and
especially near big centres, you may be surprised
to meet fair or even red-haired individuals. But
the principal type is the brown one, with a thick.

PEASANT COSTUMES 11

hooked nose, a round head, thick lips, and of
medium height, about Im. 65 cent. The men have
strong bones, broad shoulders, large hands, and
are, as a rule, well in muscle, — neither too fat,
nor too thin. The women are sUghtly smaller,
with elegant bodies, strong hips, good-sized breasts,
almost small feet and hands, dark eyes and long,
thick black hair. Fellahin and Fellahat usually
wear a plain long shirt with wide sleeves which
reaches, when not held up by the girdle, to the feet.
The man's Thob is usually white, the woman's
blue, but they soon undergo a change. Water
being always scarce about the village, white
becomes grey, whilst the gaudy blue of the Thiab
is toned down by the sun and by wear and tear
among thorns and briars. The women's pic-
turesque long veil, which serves so many purposes,
such as the carrying home of provisions, Hkewise
quickly loses its pristine freshness and takes on the
dominant colour of this grey land. When out
walking or at his work, the Fellah pulls up his
Thob so that it barely reaches his knees. But
the higher he approaches in rank to those two
important officials the Sheikh of the village and
the Khateeb, or Priest, the lower he wears his
shirt. In the case of the women, decency obliges
them, whenever men approach or are likely to be
near, as at home, to lower their Thiab to the feet.
The Fellahat have a silken or woollen girdle, and
this, with their veil, completes their full dress.

12 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Shoes and mantles, jackets and fur-coats are
luxuries, worn only on rare occasions.

The Fallah, with his leather girdle, hairy breast
and arms, is the exact portrait of Elijah the Tish-
bite, who was " a hairy man and girt with a girdle
of leather about his loins." ^ This girdle is the
most important item of his dress. Though his
bodily wants may be few, he requires a large
number of articles ever to hand, hence the girdle
serves the purpose of an indispensable store-room.
Upon it are suspended chains, hooks, pouches and
horns, to hold knives, daggers, clubs, powder and
shot, flint and steel, tinder, packneedles and
thread, pipes, tobacco and cigarette papers, razors
and combs, handkerchiefs and documents. A man
without his girdle was always considered in the
East to be in a position of inferiority : very
much as an Occidental would be in his night-gown.
The command ** gird up thy loins " ^ meant —
be ready for an emergency, and the Israelites were
ordered ** to eat with their loins girded, shoes on
feet and staff in hand." ^ Without his girdle, a
man was unprepared either for war or for journey-
ing. Of late the broad girdle of the Fellahin
has been diminished, but it is stiU to be seen in
many out-of-the-way places.*

» I. Kings i. 8. « n. Kings iv. 29. ' Exodus xii. 11. ♦

* The history of the girdle in the East contains some very

curious facts. One of them is worth mentioning. To distinguish

the Mohammedans from Christians and Jews, the cruel and

despotic Caliph Motawakkil of the 'Abbasids proclaimed a law

5:

5S

C/3

CHRETIENS DE LA SAINCTURE 13

Surrounding the Fellah's head and wound round
his red Tarbush is a large grey and yellow turban.
The women have a long, flowing picturesque head-
dress called a Khirkah, which falls over the shoulders
and to the waist, like a shawl, and is often trimmed
with plain or coloured tassels. Shoes are worn
by the Fellahat only when on a journey, never in
the village, and even when abroad they are care-
fully kept in the bosom-pouch to prevent them
being soiled and disfigured. This pouch is also
used as a receptacle for food when they are out
at their work, and for other necessary things.
Whilst visiting or on their way to towns, the women
keep their Thiab decently tied round the body
They carry their packages either on their heads
or wrapped in the long sleeves of their gowns, the

in 235 A.H. (349 a.d.) that non-believers should wear a broad
leather girdle, Zennar, and never be allowed to loosen it. They
were further to be distinguished from the faithful by their black
turbans and shoes. This Girdle Law led, in later years, to a
strange error. The old French appellation for the Christians of
the Holy Land — " Les Chretiens de la Saincture " — was trans-
lated by modern writers " Christians of the Girdle," saincture
being confounded with ceinture. When Baron d'Anglure visited
Palestine in 1395 (see Sainct voyage de Jerusalem, p. 99) he
wrote in reference to the Holy Sepulchre : " Au dehors d'icelle
saincte eglise, devant le portail, autour de la dicte place a quatre
chappelles, la premiere est de Nostre-Dame, 1 'autre de Saint
Jehan d'Euvangeliste, la tierce de Marie Magdelaine et la quatre
de St Michel et sont gouvernees icelles chappelles par Grecz
(Greeks) et par Hermins (Armenians) et par Chritiens de la
Saincture (Latins) et si y a Chretiens de la terre preste Jehan
(Abyssinia)." During the " great blank " — that is, between the
fourteenth and seventeenth centuries — Palestine was almost for-
gotten and the French language having changed, Saincture
became Terre Sainte.

3— (ai3x)

14 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

points being knotted or held in the hand and the
packet below the arm and the elbow.

The Schmaar is an item of the Fellah's dress
which calls for explanation. It is a cord, sometimes
ornamented with tassels but more often quite
simple, and, worn cross-ways behind the shoul-
ders, is used for keeping the men's sleeves tucked
out of their way, for these, though wide, cannot
be knotted together and thrown behind their
backs. 1

A brown and greyish striped sleeveless mantle,
the " Abba," completes the full dress of the men
when in society. It is impermeable to rain, —
" his only covering wherein he shall sleep," as we
read in Exodus, ^ where, in Hebrew, it is called
Shalmat, evidently the black Bedawin Shalat.
This cloak is the Fellah's most indispensable
article of dress at night, for when away from home
he knows not where he may be able to find a lodg-
ing and may very likely be obliged to sleep upon

1 The Schmaar, which was always part of the Fellahln's cos-
tume, is mentioned as early as the days of the sons of Jacob.
When Judah met a Kaddishah, or consecrated woman, and had
no ready money with which to pay for her services, she asked,
as an arboun, or pledge, for his fateel (the woven schmaar), called
in the Authorised Version " bracelets " but correctly rendered
" cord " in the Revised Version ; his staff and his signet (see
Genesis xxxviii. 18) — three objects of essential value to- the
owner. The Schmaar was a keepsake woven by an admirer ;
the signet was necessary for the seahng of documents, as the
owner was too ilhterate to sign his name ; and the staff, an old
friend and supporter, was perhaps used as a talisman against
serpents, — a Mehjane, the hooked almond stick.

« xxii. 27.

FELLAHIN HOSPITALITY 15

the ground, like Jacob, " with a stone for pillow." ^
The women have short red mantles, called Bisht,
but generally known as " Abba " ; they barely
reach to the knees and are rarely used except by
the Fellahat around Jerusalem, Siloam, the Mount )(^
of Olives and Bethany, who daily come to market
to sell their agricultural produce. Out of these
places not one woman in ten possesses them.

Though naturally pohte and proverbially hos-
pitable, the FeUahin do not extend these good
qualities beyond people of their own creed or tribe.
As a rule, non-Moslems and non-Arabs are held
at arm's length. Christian FeUahin, possessing
the same customs and laws of hospitality, enjoy
the same in a Moslem village but foreigners — so
often arrogant — have nothing to look for among
the humble and simple country-folk. The women,
exactly resembhng Rachel and Rebecca, will
offer a drink to wayfarers of the Arabic tongue
but will keep at a distance from and look with dis-
trust on the (to them) indecent clothing and hats of
Occidentals, who pass by in disdainful attitudes,
speaking a foreign language and displaying none
of the beloved home-notes and manners. These
strangers — people who claim that the land has
changed, that the sweet singer of Israel no longer
fills the air with his music, forget that nothing has
altered, that they alone are foreigners who under-
stand no word of Oriental sentimentalism, and who

* Genesis xxviii. 11.

16 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

- come to teach the people their own history in
r distorted lessons. Provided you are one in belief
or in language with a Fellah, I know of no one who
could be more hospitable. Though his house be
in ruins, he receives his guests with as much vanity
and satisfaction as a Croesus living in a marble
palace would, and treats them as generously as
if he were the richest man in the place, even though
he may have to go to his neighbour to borrow rice,
a lamb or a goat, butter and coffee.

IV

But let us now turn to the second of our grey
trio : the ruins of Palestine. ^ The entire country

1 With these ruins of " fenced cities," lying in " ruinous heaps "
(II. Kings xix. 25) may be grouped the heaps of stones which the
traveller is ever encountering. These mark places where men
have been killed, and are placed there with the idea of preventing
the ghosts of the departed from appearing and frightening the
passers-by : a relic of the stoning of the condemned referred to
in the words " the people of the land shall stone him with stones "
(Leviticus xx. 2). Do we not read, too, that when the King of
Ai was dead he was taken down before evening, his carcass was
thrown at the entrance to the city, and a great heap of stones was
raised over it, " that remaineth unto this day " ? (Joshua viii.
29). At the last execution I saw in Palestine, near the Jaffa Gate,
in 1869, many of the spectators threw stones at the beheaded body,
which was later carried away to be buried by night. The pil-
grims of Arafat, near Mecca, stone Satan for his disobedience
and he is often termed Esh-Shit&n er-Rajeem. But heaps of
stones accumulated under these and similar circumstances must
.^ not be confused with the witness stones which are heaped up in

honour of a saint. These are set up stone by stone by pious
believers when , at a distance , they first perceive a shrine. ' ' Stone ,
I witness with you to-day, and witness with me on judgment
day," says the traveller, as he places his stone in position. There
are heaps of these witness stones in Bethel and between Laban and
Jacob.

RUINED CITIES 17

is scattered with them ; — there are certainly five
or six desolated sites for every one that is inhabited.
A curse is thought to adhere to old ruins, and the
BibHcal " cursed is the man before Jehovah that
riseth up and buildeth this city Jericho," ^ if not
regarded as law, has been carried into effect. All
through the pages of the Bible do we find references
to this characteristic feature of the Holy Land.
Prophets threatened that ruins should be mul-
tiphed, 2 or promised, if the people turned away
from their abominations, that they should be
raised up. ^ The Cities of the Plain, Sodom and
Gomorrah, Adama and Zeboim, disappeared in
the weU-known catastrophe. Zoar alone remained,
but later that town also was swept away. Masada,
the last fortress of the Jewish nations, is now in
ruins. Likewise, on Engiddy, the older Hazazon-
Tamar, being abandoned, the inhabitants with-
drew to build Beth-Tamar, Beth-Sahur and Ebn-
Obeid, which in their turn were deserted by the
people, who are stiU wandering about, wearing,
though they are half Bedawin, the Fallahin turban
and cloak.* Tekoa has also become a great heap
of ruins and the desert's sole inhabitants are now
many species of lizards,^ including the Waran
(Psammosaurus scincus), the Thab or Mastiguer

1 Joshua vi. 26. ^ Ezekiel xxi. 15. ' Amos ix. 11.

* There are three tribes of these agricultural nomads : the
Ta'amry, the Sawahry and the Obeidiy^.

' Canon Tristram, the author of The Fauna and Flora of
Palestine, captured at least ten species.

18 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

(JJromastix spinipes), and our old friend the Harden
whose life history we have yet to consider.

V

The Stellio cordylina lizard lives, as I have said,
about the home of the Fellahin and seeks security
in any convenient hole which may present itself
in the rough-built, unplastered walls. But he
avoids the front part of the house and never
on any account ventures inside, like his cousin the
Gecko (Ptyodactylus hasselquisti). Abu Braise —
the familiar appellation under which the latter is
known to the Fellahin — rids the dweUing of gnats,
flies and mosquitoes. He is believed, as this name
indicates, to engender leprosy, — a belief the origin
of which is almost as old as his very existence,
since it arises from his colour and protuberances,
which, in fact, resemble the effects of that disease. ^
Nor is this the only injustice which is done Master
Gecko ; the beautiful, useful little fellow is also
accused of having indicated to Mohammed's
persecutors the prophet's hiding-place at the
Hejra (Anglice Hegira), by calling out : " Shick !

^ The ancient lawgivers, who were probably responsible for
this belief, fell into error in almost all their observations concern-
ing the minor animals and the causes of disease. For instance,
they confused the appearance of saltpetre on the damp walls
of houses with leprosy. See Leviticus xiv. 37 : " And he
shall look on the plague, and, behold, if the plague be in the walls
of the house with hollow strakes, greenish or reddish, which in
sight are lower than the wall ; then ..." This superstition
and the belief concerning the Gecko are as firm as ever in the
country districts of Palestine.

SUPERSTITIOUS TALES 19

wan-Nabi fish shick ! " (" Geek ! the Prophet
is in the cleft ! ") Similarly, two acts of
treachery are laid at the door of the Hardon.
He is said to have nodded his head above
the same cleft, to indicate that it was true
the prophet was there, because the entrance to
the opening in the rock was obstructed by a
spider's web and two turtle-dove's eggs. But the
persecutors, not believing either traitor, passed on.
The Hardon is Hkewise accused of having carried
wood to Jebel 'Arafat when the accursed mule
was already loaded to go and burn the Angel
Gabriel.^ In consequence of these superstitious
tales, whoever kills a Hardon or a Gecko with his
right hand is said to receive a reward in heaven,
and the more Geckos or Haradin he puts to death
the more numerous will be his recompenses. For-
tunately the Fellahin are too busy or too fatalistic
to attempt to destroy a single one, and thus
large quantities of flies, beetles, wasps, field-bugs
and ants, which would become a veritable plague

1 Many other legends are related concerning the Harddn,
which is regarded by the natives of Palestine as a thinking being.
A Fellah once told me the following story. One day, a serpent,
accustomed, like her congeners, to feed on Haradin, rushed upon a
Hardon. But the sly fellow, quicker than she was, promptly
seized upon a piece of wood, which he presented crosswise in his
mouth to the snake. Whichever way she turned, the Hardon
turned his head with the stick, thus preventing her from getting
hold. At last the serpent, completely bafiied, abandoned him. —
Serpents are exceedingly fond of Haradin. I have myself cut
open a Zamenis viridiflavus and rescued one of them — a miniature
Jonah — after it had spent perhaps three hours in the reptile's
stomach.

20 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

to agriculture if left unchecked, are removed from
the land. Nevertheless, the Hardon, as though
conscious of the alleged crime of one of his ances-
tors, runs fast on the approach of man and hides
either in the cracked bole of an olive-tree or in his
impregnable hole in a wall. His name means
Withdrawer or Sly Fellow, and having got a bad
reputation he feels that he has no time to wait
and hear who is right or wrong ; — concluding that
the judge will surely be on man's side, he promptly
sUps out of the way.

The male Hardon is slightly darker than the
female and generally stronger ; his thick tail is
more spiny and his triangular head much larger.
He wags his head periodically, but only when he
feels in safety and is basking in the bright sunshine
on the top of a stone. Sometimes he draws him-
self up like a sentinel and, seeming to say, "Here I
am ! Come along. Look out ! Man is coming ! **
appears to be attracting the female's attention.
For Haradin always Hve in pairs. And when the
male thus walks high on his four legs the female
can pass below him.

In June the female digs a hole about six inches
deep in the dry, loose earth and lays from eight to
ten yellowish eggs, about two centimetres long
and with a semi-rigid membrane. Each is
deposited separately and covered with warm
earth, after which they are left to hatch in the sun.
The young Haradin (about four centimetres in

GROWTH OF THE HARDON 21

length when born) crawl out some two months
later and immediately begin to fight life's battles
for themselves by picking up ants and minor
insects.^ In view of their three to four months
hibernation in the holes of ruins or olive trees,
they store up, under their thick skin, a layer of
fat. At one year of age they are about ten cen-
timetres long, by the second year they may be
nearly twenty, and at the end of the third year
they attain their full growth, or nearly so, — a
length of thirty centimetres. By this time the
Hardon has chosen a home of his own and, taken
up with matrimonial duties, rarely, as far as I
have been able to observe, abandons it.

Near Solomon's Pools is a mountain where
Haradin thrive so well that it has come to be known
as Abu-1-Haradin. That these reptiles have been
a feature of Palestine since times immemorial
is undoubted. But how is it, then, that they
escaped the notice of the Fellahin prophets,
especially Micah, who lived in a Hardon district ?
The fault is probably not with Micah but with
his translators. The prophet, referring to the
fleeing of the enemy, says, according to the

* They are also particularly fond of bees, and for that reason
always abound near apiaries. They can sometimes be surprised
in the act of standing in front of the fly-holes of the hives catching
drones and workers. In the latter case they allow the bees to
sting them about the jaws, so that the poison sack and its con-
tents may remain in the wound and the bees be swallowed without
venom. I have seen Haradin with a dozen or more stings on
their powerful jaws. Though comparatively small, their teeth
are strong enough to draw blood should they bite your finger.

22 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Authorised Version : " They shall lick the dust hke a
serpent, they shall move out of their holes like
worms of the earth," * But the Hebrew text is
clearer : " Yelhaku 'afr kanahsch, kazahli arz
yergazu mi massgarathihim," which, translated
into Arabic, would read : " Yelhasu *afr kal-
hanash, kasahali (or Haradin) el ard, yergathu
min khuzuk il mussagerath," — that is: "As a
serpent they lick the dust, and as a lizard of the
earth, they dance or run from their hiding-places."
Like many reptiles, the Hardon, for protective
purposes, has the power of slightly changing his
colour. He is very dark when about the stems of
oHve-trees, grey when lying on rocks or ruins,
and slightly greyer when near the ashes of the
Tabon, or oven, where, on account of the warmth
in winter and the insects in summer, he delights
to recline, and where you may hear the pitiless
Fellahin children singing to him : —

" Salli sallatak ya Hardon
Immak mattat fi — tabdn." ^

* Micah vii, 17. The Revised Version says "like crawling
things of the earth."

* " Pray your prayer, oh Hardon,
Your mother died in the oven."

II

IN THE BEDAWIN COUNTRY

I

The high plateau of Moab, in Eastern Palestine,
the maritime plains of Sharon, in the west, the
central plains of Esdraelon and Jezreel, or the
extremely fertile plains of Shittim, in the deep
depression formed by the Jordan valley, may
be called inexhaustible graineries. Year after
year, without any artificial manuring, crops are
raised, and as soon as the harvest is over thousands
of animals are turned into the fenceless fields to
pasture on the stubble — often over a foot high —
which the reapers have left. These droves of
camels, herds of fat-tailed sheep, or black goats
with ears so long that they often reach the ground,
all delight in the food they find, and, whilst
roaming about day after day for many months
yearly, manure the land naturally.

With the exception of northern Sharon, Esdrael-
on and Jezreel, the southern, central and eastern
lands belong to the wandering Arabs, who prefer to
go on Ghazu^ rather than cultivate their lands,
which, owned by the whole tribe, are rented to
the more diligent Fellahin, on condition of yielding
a portion of the produce to the owners. Indeed,

* Marauding excursions.

23

24 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

the haughty Bedawi considers it a dishonour to
leave his camels or horses and take to the plough
or the sickle, and with pride he sings : —

" II khail lal bela
II ebal lal khala
Wal baggar
Lal fuggur." *

He is always on the look-out for some " Fellah-
el-Hitr/' ^ willing to take his share of land, and,
since he is often in need of ready money, to advance
him on interest a few hundred Majidis. ^ Then he
is free to jump on to his fine mare and follow his
chief on one of the numerous expeditions, more or
less legitimate, which form so great a part of his
free, picturesque life.

UnUke these fertile spots of Palestine, the dry
mountains of Judaea, where my father owned land,
give but a poor return of wheat and barley. Con-
sequently the Fellahin of the villages often turn
their thoughts and footsteps to the haunts of the
Bedawin. In doing so they are but imitating
their ancestors. The children of Jacob departed
to Egypt because the mountains gave no more
grain, Abraham and Isaac travelled to the south-
ern plains of Beersheba and Sharon, — Jacob and
his children to Dothan, towards Esdraelon, —

1 The horses are for trial (in war)
The camels are for excursions (or the desert)
But the cows
Are for the poor.

* Unfortunate Fellah, obliged to work.

• A Majidi is equivalent to about 3s. 6d.

ON JORDAN'S BANKS 25

and the father and mother-in-law of Ruth to Moab
because there was famine in Bethlehem.

One day, when I was still in my youth, one
of my father's Fellah-partners, Saleh el-Kaak,
announced his intention of trying his luck on the
plains of Jordan. He had come into relations with
a high-born Bedawi of the tribe of the Aduan,
Imhammad el-Talak, who, as a fully-equipped
horseman of Sheikh Ali el-Thiab, was obliged to
follow his liege lord wherever he was led, and the
two men having come to the usual financial arrange-
ment the departure was fixed for the month of
November. My father, anxious to know more
about the country and its resources, but unable to
leave home, delegated me to accompany Saleh el-
Kaak and assist at the ploughing and the sowing.
When this work, which took only a few weeks,
was over, I turned my face homewards, but
with the intention of returning for the harvest
when the Jordan permitted. There were no
bridges over the famous river in those days, and
even had there been any they would have been
of no avail in early spring, as the river bed hes
very low in a broader bed, covered with thickets,
and when the snows melt on Mount Hermon, in
Lebanon, the stream is sometimes miles in breadth.
It would have been folly to attempt a crossing
" when Jordan overflowed all its banks." ^

It was not until May, when the river was

* Joshua iii, 15.

26 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

reported to be in a normal condition again, that
Saleh el-Kaak, his two sons, his numerous relatives,
and myself set off on our journey. We travelled
in caravans, it being unsafe in those days to travel
in small groups, owing to the ever-lurking Bedawin,
only too ready to pounce upon and rob the weak
and unsuspecting wayfarer. Our own caravan
was composed of men and women, with a number
of animals, from Siloam. We started before
midnight and by morning approached the
treacherous river with apprehension.

All chattering ceased when the crossing of the
Jordan began ; out on the grey waters everyone
looked serious. Whirlpool and rapids were
encountered at every yard, now rushing swiftly
down in the centre of the stream, now dashing
against the banks and hollowing them out. There
was not a living being who did not reflect on the
possibility of nevter reaching the opposite shore
alive, for all knew that every crossing of the
Jordan was fatal to one or other of the animals
and sometimes to men and women. At times
the dashing waters would so excavate the land
that one of the marly hills, ^ with a mighty splash,

1 According to a manuscript of Nowairi, the Arab historian,
translated by Professor Clermont-Ganneau for the Quarterly
Statement of the Palestine Exploration Fund of July, 1895, the
chronicler relates a similar occurence. In the month of Jumad
the First, in the year 664 (a.d. 1266), the Sultan Beybars " issued
orders for the building of a bridge over the Jordan. . . . The
bridge is in the neighbourhood of Damieh. . . . The Sultan
charged the Emir Jamel ed Din Ibn Nahar with the erection of the

CROSSING THE RIVER 27

would topple into the stream, churning it into
foam and increasing the anguish in everyone's
breast, though all tried to conceal their emotion.
Nothing was more revelatory than the manner in
which various people faced the danger. The
Moslems stepped into the water with a " Bism
illah " ; the Christians signed themselves with the
cross. All drew near quietly, muttering prayers ;
jokes were forgotten, merry faces became grave;
and not until the whole caravan was over could
joyous laughter be heard once more.

There are very few swimmers among the
Siloam Fellahin, so that most of them had to
depend on their Bedawin partner to take them
across. Our own swimming ford was fifty to

bridge, and commanded it to be made with five arches. . . .
When the work was completed and the workmen dispersed,
part of the piers gave way. The Sultan was greatly annoyed,
reprimanded the builders and sent them back to repair the
damage. They found the task very difficult, owing to the
rising of the waters and the strength of the current. But on
the night preceding the dawn of the 17th of the month of Rabce,
the First of the year 666 (December 8th, 1267), the waters of
the river ceased to flow, so that none remained in its bed. The
people hurried . . . and seized the opportunity offered by the
occurrence to remedy the defects in the piers, and to strengthen
them. . . . They then despatched mounted men to ascertain
the nature of the event. The riders urged forward their horses
and found that a lofty mound (Kabar), which overlooked the
river on the west, had fallen into it and dammed it up. . . . The
messengers returned with this explanation, and the water was
arrested from midnight until the fourth hour of the day. Then
the pressure of the water became too great and the dam burst.
The water rushed down in a mass equal in depth to the length
of a lance, but made no impression upon the building, owing to
the strength given it. The stream, however, carried away the
apparatus used in the work of repairs. This is one of the most
wonderful of events, and the bridge is in existence to this day."

28 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

sixty yards broad, and as the trees and rushes had
often been cut down level with the water, these,
to begin with, cut the soles of our feet like knives.
It was like a visit to the dentist's : no one was in
a hurry to go first, — everyone wished to see the
effect of the crossing on him or her before venturing
into the yellow water. Being a good swimmer, I
crossed with numbers of Bedawiyat and Fellahat,
with inflated Kirbies^ on their backs. All
entered the water fully dressed, the most passive
and composed set of people I have ever seen.
Fully confident in the strength of my young arms,
these women let themselves be dragged along with-
out a murmur, whereas all the men, without
exception, showed signs of anguish or terror, as
though on their way to execution. A woman of
Palestine, again, will allow herself to be bound
fast at the arm, and will keep at four or five yards
distance from a swimmer, but a man, when the
waters of the river seem to be dragging with too
great a force, will always approach and try to
save himself by taking hold.

^ The Kirby is a water-bottle made of the skins of sheep or
goats, tanned and sewn together. The neck is open to receive
water. When full and securely tied up, it is carried on a woman's
back ; or, if there are two Kirbies, on a donkey, one on either
side of the animal. Inflated and bound to the back, these recep-
tacles make excellent buoys for a non-swimmer. He or she
having been provided with a couple of inflated Kirbies and bound,
the swimmer takes the other end of the cord in his mouth, thus
leaving his arms perfectly free. Animals are bound at the lower
jaw and follow easily, as they cannot resist the slightest pressure
on the jaws or tongue.

"DOG OF A CHRISTIAN" 29

As I was the only swimmer in my group, the
difficult task of carrying over the saddles and
luggage, when the donkeys, camels and my mare
had crossed, was left to me. I had all the Kirbies
inflated and tied together, in sets of seven or
eight, and on this original raft managed to get all
our belongings across.

Each group was in the same predicament :
there was but one swimmer, and he had to cross a
dozen or more times — a good four hours' work.
These duties were renewed every second day, for
the grain — poured into the Kirbies and on a raft
of inflated water-bottles — had to be got over.

I wonder how much a human being can sup-
port. Work under the conditions of those days
was simply the most refined cruelty imaginable.
Our Bedawin companions crossed the Jordan
stark naked and insisted on our doing the same.

** Dog of a Christian," cried an old scarred
Bedawi warrior to me when I demurred, — he had
only one eye left, several of his fingers were
missing, and his body was marked with spear
wounds ; ** are you better than ourselves that you
should hide your nakedness ? Uncircumcised dog,
I will crush you Hke a fly " — raising his Naboot —
*' if you do not throw off every rag from your
accursed body ! "

And so, under a torrid sun — 45 to 55 degrees
Centigrade, with bare slashed feet on the burning
sand, with enormous gnats and mosquitoes biting

4— (2131)

30 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

our bodies, we worked. To drive away the
insects, which stung our bodies until they bled,
every swimmer was provided with a leaved willow
wand cut on the banks, and with this he contin-
ually whipped himself. Near the starting-point, ^
where the grain was poured into the Kirbies by
the non-swimmers, huge fires were kept up, and
in the heat and smoke of these we sat in an almost
vain endeavour to keep the insects at bay until,
once more, we popped into the stream.

To show good-humour and also to rail at the
cowardly non-swimmers when they were on the
shore, we sang, either alone or in unison. But
never a word was uttered when man or beast
was drifting down the Jordan. Once, as a man
was washed away, I cried out in terror, but I was
quickly called to order by a Bedawi, who remarked,
philosophically : —

" We are not blind and your shouting will only
frighten the others. Besides, the victim himself
will lose hope. You will neither draw him out
nor give him encouragement. If luck is in his
favour he will be washed ashore."

1 On account of the river's rapidity we
were carried hundreds of yards down stream.
So we had always three points for starting and
A landing. A was the spot at which we started
to reach B. Then we would walk up the
bank to C and drop in the river to be carried
to A again.

ABSOLUTE EQUALITY 31

And sure enough, he was. . . . Ever afterwards,
whenever I saw a donkey or a cow washed away,
I thought of that Bedawi wise-man and regarded
the loss without flinching. What matter ! — it
was only one more animal that had gone to feed
the Cheetahs^ in the jungle below.

II

Very little indeed was done for the comfort of
the toilers in that fearful climate, — nothing for
the security of either man or beast. There was
absolute equality, in an atmosphere of indifference.
We lived an ideal social life. As regards food,
whoever had any gave it up, in true Bedawi
fashion, for the benefit of the whole community.
Everything was eaten then and there on the banks
of the Jordan, so as not to have the trouble of
carrying it the ten miles to our camp on the green
banks of the Kaffrain.

I was often asked in after years why we did
not build huts on the banks of the Jordan to
protect ourselves against the sun — why we
did not throw wire ropes across the river —
why we had no planks for landing — and so on.
The questioners had never come into contact with
a Bedawi at home, — a Bedawi who will risk his

^ Possibly the " roaring lion " referred to by the Prophet
Jeremiah^as " coming up before the sweUing of Jordan " was the
Cheetah, w I am inclined to the belief that the lion never really
existed in Palestine proper. The Bible contains various references
to lions, but this is possibly due to negligence on the part of the
transcribers.

32 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

life on a marauding expedition and on returning
will present you with his share of the spoil in return
for a compliment, — a Bedawi who will deliberately
destroy any means of getting over Jordan easier,
who will fell a tree fifteen feet high in order to
obtain a stick which pleases him in the branches,
who will hunt for days and nights in the jungle,
slaughtering wild boar until he has found just the
right pair of tusks for ornamenting his mare's
neck, or who will climb a precipice in search of an
eagle to provide him with the two bones for
making a Neiye, — a Bedawi who is as free as the
air, careless as a four-year-old baby, cruel as a
tiger, and yet so hospitable that it is impossible
to find his equal anywhere in the world. No ;
a Bedawi would join you in carrying off wives, if
you proposed it to him, but he would set fire to
your huts, cut your wire ropes and throw your
planks into the river — for the fun of it. He cares
not a fig for progress. The wilder, the more
inaccessible his region, the more secure is his life
and the better he is pleased. His whole desire
is to keep the civilised world and the Government
official in search of taxes away. He is a " wild
man," whose hand is ** against every man," and,
as was promised to Hagar concerning that Bedawi
Ishmael, every man's hand shall be against him. ^
No one in our caravan had, I assure you, the
courage to linger a single moment longer than was

* Genesis xvi. 12.

J 'koto

J. H. haiiaajian, naija

A Bedawi of the Kishon

MY FAITHFUL MARE 33

necessary on the banks of the inhospitable Jordan.
As soon as our work was over our only wish was to
flee from the heat and the mosquitoes^ and es-
pecially from any hostile Bedawin, who, exactly
like the Apaches in the suburbs of Paris, or the
sharks which, hour after hour, follow the ocean
steamers to snatch at the morsels falling overboard,
might turn up in our rear to seize upon any
loiterer, as indeed happened to myself, as I will
later relate.

When we came to the Kaffrain, the Aduan had
decamped for the cooler slopes of Moab. Imme-
diately those of my own party entered upon an
open-air life, — not only eating but sleeping in the
open. But we built a few huts for the protection
of the women and to hold the very elementary
cooking utensils which Ghalie, a young Fellaha,
had brought with her for our use. And thus we
watched, rather than slept, in case anyone less
favoured with worldly goods should attempt,
under cover of the night, to run off with our ani-
mals or other property. During the day my
mare was tethered, but in the darkness, as no one
would take the responsibility of looking after her,
she was attached to my wrist. Thus, every night,
for two long months I lay on the ground, with the
mare walking round and round me, and some-
times gently pulling, lest I should forget myself
in too deep a sleep. Never once did the faithful,
cautious animal so much as graze my outstretched

34 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

limbs, except when, imagining that I had no more
breath, or that some wolf or jackal was approaching
too near, she would draw near and snort in my face.

We were divided into two separate camps,
situated some distance the one from the other,
one with and the other without tents ; and
Imhammad el-Talak, Saleh el-Kaak's Bedawi
partner, was with us. His wife, N^amy, and an
eleven-year-old son named Swelem were in the
other encampment, but he was accompanied by
his old mother 'Hamdiyeh, who used to sit almost
all day near her hut, smoking a long pipe and sur-
veying the harvest. Enveloped in her dark blue
clothes and dark head veil, she sat so motionless
that, at a distance, no one would have taken her
to be a living being. Only on drawing near and
seeing the rings of smoke pass from her tattooed
lips, with an occasional sideway glance of her
wild eyes, could you be sure that she was not a
statue.

Comparing our life with that of the harvesters
in the tent camp, we lived in " the land of the
lotus-eaters." We had both wheat and barley ;
the well-nigh impenetrable Dom-forest was full
of Dom-apples ; whilst innumerable Senegal and
collared turtle-doves, which filled the air with
their ceaseless cooing, provided us with meat.
Never before or since did I eat so many pigeons
as during those two months on the outskirts of
the forest. But to penetrate the thorny thickets

DOM-THICKETS AND SERPENTS 35

in pursuit of birds or in search of fruit was no
easy or agreeable task. We had not only to
contend with the sharp hooked thorns of the Dom
or Lotus tree (Zizyphus spina Christi), which stuck
to our clothes " closer than a brother/' tore them
into holes all over, and scratched our hands and
faces, — we had to keep a sharp look-out for snakes,
which hid in the high grass and fed upon the birds.
I did not then know the difference between the
deadly Daboia, the huge and lively Esculap, and
the black and shining Hanash ; and when I shot
a gigantic brown Esculap, measuring more than
five feet, and which had blown out its neck at me
from the top of a Dom-tree, I thought I had had a
narrow escape. The small Dom-apples — hardly
bigger than a hazel nut — would have been dis-
dained elsewhere, but on the banks of the Kaffrain
every Bedawi gathers them, or leaves his wife
and daughters to collect a store for winter use.
Dom-gathering — an occupation not to be recom-
mended to those with delicate hands — and Swelem,
the eleven-year-old son of Imhammad el-Talak,
are ever connected in my memory. In the inven-
tion and carrying out of impish tricks that young-
ster was a past master. He used to upset the trays
containing the Dom-meal, scatter sand on the dry-
ing tobacco leaves, pour water into his grand-
mother's tobacco-pipe, set loose the cows and the
donkeys of the Fellahin when they were most
wanted for threshing, and defile the waters of the

36 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Kaffrain at the very moment when the women, a
little lower down the stream, were filUng their
Kirbies. One day, when he had been assisting
in the gathering of the Dom-apples and had been
well scratched on his arms and legs, he revenged
himself by setting fire to the bush. The Sharkiye,
an east wind, happened to be blowing slightly, so
that in a very short time the whole of the thickets
in our neighbourhood was a sea of fire, killing
young birds by thousands in their nests and scorch-
ing hundreds of serpents to a cinder. For once
Swelem escaped a thrashing. Everybody agreed
that his act was a stroke of genius. For the result
was that a way was opened in the impenetrable
forest, the defences of the Zizyphus spina Christi
were broken down, the dangerous reptiles were
annihilated, and hundreds of thousands of
Dom-apples hung — roasted — on the leafless trees.

The news of Swelem' s fire spread almost as
rapidly as the flames he had set ablazing. Beda-
wiyat came down from the mountains to fill their
gazelle-skin bags with roasted Dom-apples and,
returning home, heavily ladened, sent others or
came again themselves. The fire was a god-send
to all except myself, who had now to go much
further afield in search of game.

Being the only European, it was thought, in
those days (1874), to be safer for me to wear
Bedawi-clothing : a long shirt with broad, pointed
sleeves hanging to the ground, a Saye, and, on my

THE WHITE "FRANJI" 37

head, a silken Kafiy6. With the exception of the
girdle, which held the shirt and the Saye together,
the ^Akal, or head-cord, wound around the
Kafiye, and a fringe of hair hanging over my
forehead, in accordance with the fashion among
Bedawin youngsters, I was a figure in spotless
white. In order to be able to walk more easily
whilst on the march, I used to gather up the long
folds of my dress and stick them in my girdle,
leaving my legs bare. No wonder that one day
four Bedawiyat, gathering Dom-apples in the
forest, fled with loud screams at my approach.
They had never seen a white boy before and must
have imagined that a Jan, or guardian of the
forest, had appeared to drive them home. Fearing
that their silly behaviour might be wrongly inter-
preted in the camp, I shouted to them at the top
of my voice to stop. They obeyed, a little
through feminine curiosity, a little through fear ;
then, timidly, in response to my parleying, they
advanced, until at last they had drawn near
enough to pinch my arms and legs and make cer-
tain that I was an authentic son of Adam. To
account for my white skin and white Kafiye,
which is often dark with the Bedawin, I explained
to them that I was a Frank. Never before had
they set eyes on a ** Franji " and once more,
impelled by curiosity, they stretched out their
tattooed arms to touch my body. To seal our
friendship every one offered me Dom-apples until

38 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

I had as many as I could carry, wrapped —
Bedawi fashion — in the long sleeves of my ample
gown. But I am inclined to think that, after all,
they were not quite convinced. For they retreated
cautiously, with many backward glances and the
youngest, a girl of fourteen, attempting to hide
behind the others, until they finally disappeared
behind the half-burned bushes.

Ill

There was little variety in our meals in camp ;
the only striking change was when Ghalie, having
baked the bread in the ashes in the morning and
at noon, treated us in the evening to the luxury of
bread made on a Saaj, an iron plate, above the
fire. Pigeons and bread and Dom-apples followed
each other in regular rotation. Vegetables were
unknown.

The only plant the Bedawin care to grow is the
fragrant Hassanbaki, i.e., tobacco, which they
cultivate in small enclosures. But so impatient
are they that they never wait for the plants to
attain their full growth. Nor have they the
patience to wait for the leaves to dry ; hardly
have they begun to wither than they cut them up
with their pocket-knives. As clay pipes can only
be obtained in the towns, they make a Ghaliun
of a reed stem, boring a hole in one side through
which to draw the smoke. It would be too much
exertion on hand and brain to fashion a pipe-stem

DEAD SEA DISTRICT 39

out of a reedlet. A Bedawi may be said to suck
rather than smoke his pipe, which he enjoys,
however, every bit as much as the wealthy towns-
man does his silver filigreed narghile or a European
his amber-mouthed meerschaum.

Once we moved our camp up stream, in order
to have the protection of a ruined site, — beloved
of the Fellahin, — and the luxury of a waU against
which to build Ghalie's hut. Imhammad el-Talak
had now departed with his chief ; Saleh el-Kaak
and his sons, Khaleel and Ehmad, were actively
engaged in cutting the wheat and the barley ;
Ghalie had almost all the threshing to do ; and
nearly everybody, save myself, had his appointed
duties. As long as the sun shone hot on the straw
heap I enjoyed little society. I had to content
myself with Murjane, a freed slave about my own
age, and Sa^d el-Kaanass, a youth several years
older, and, since he was a good shot, a fairly
frequent companion.

One of our excursions, when time hung heavily
on my hands and the eternal doves and pigeons of
Kaffrain palled on my palate, was to the Dead
Sea, about a two hours' walk away. I noticed
that whilst visiting that dangerous district the
Bedawin were much more particular about their
health than either the Fellahin or myself. They
carried with them tiny bags filled with tar which,
as soon as they entered the swampy regions, they
stuffed into their nostrils. It was an excellent

40 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

preventive, they told me, against the Wakham, ^
which, unfortunately, we mountaineers disdained.
I think I may say that fully fifty per cent, of us
died or were sickly for years after through not
taking the necessary precautions against fever.
It is not only the poisonous emanations of the vol-
canic region which cause trouble, one must take
into account the great heat in the depression in
which the Dead Sea lies, nearly six hundred feet
below the level of other seas, and, in addition, its
unhealthy waters.

But, in spite of the danger of that part of Pal-
estine, what a fascination it has for the naturaHst
and the sportsman ! Birds, reptiles and plants —
some of them known only in that tropical climate —
abound there. We brought home both red-legged
and sand-partridges, francolins and grakles ; we
admired the tiny sun-birds — smaller than some
butterflies — and the golden frogs which, at our
approach, leapt into the warm waters of CaUrrhoe
and other sulphurous springs east of the Dead
Sea ; we watched the slow mastiguer, with its
homy tail, creep along the sand ; and sat at the
foot of the Asdepia gigantea, or Caletropis procera,
fifteen feet high, with broad thick leaves, Hke a
good sized man's hand, and an orange-like fruit,
containing those silky fibres of which legends have
been told by all ancient writers from Josephus to
Tacitus. They, and even some modem writers,

1 Malaria.

APPLE OF SODOM 41

have contended that this Apple of Sodom, in
memory of the destruction by brimstone and
ashes of the neighbouring Sodom and Gomorrah,
contains nothing but smoke and ashes. But I
found that Sa'ad el-Kaanass and the scientists
were wiser. My companion, who told me wonder-
ful stories of the 'Oshair, showed me that the sHght
explosion which results from the touching of the
fruit was a characteristic of all Asclepias, — one of
Nature's wonderful methods of disseminating the
seeds of the plant, which are thus shot forth and
borne away by the wind to fructify in a thousand
different places. Far from the Asclepia gigantea
being associated with the idea of death and destruc-
tion, it was, to Salad's mind, the symbol of life.
" Was not its name," he asked me, " 'Oshair, —
the pregnant-maker, and had not a barren woman
once sat within the shade of the tree and soon after
had a child ? " And to prove that life was indeed
its essential element, he showed me how a thick
milky juice could be made to flow from the plant
hke opium from the poppy. Sometimes we would
shoot at the wild boars, but as they disappeared
in the Jordan jungle we rarely attempted to follow
them, for Sa^ad thought that the tusks were hardly
worth the risk of being attacked by the Cheetahs
who prey upon the boar. Sometimes a grouse
would call out, "Naagged! Khanafer! Ghittit ! "
tempting me to follow. But the prudent Sa'ad
would dissuade me, saying : " It is wiser not to

42 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

look for ' the she-camel of Khanafer which is
lost.' Maybe the bird is merely leading us on to
destruction. We had better return to the camp."

On another occasion, when approaching the sea
and whilst it was yet dark, a ball of fire, like a
huge star, rose from the water, and, after ascending
several hundreds of feet, vanished. Again Sa^ad
thought we had better return home. It was a
Will-*o-the-wisp, common over the surface of the
Dead Sea, but to Sa'ad it was a sign of the presence
of the Jan.

Superstition is very deeply rooted among the
Bedawin. Old Im-Imhammad, the soothsayer
of our camp, was a very good example of this.
She was a curious mixture of sagacity and igno-
rance, of cunning and a genuine belief in her powers.
She could extract balsamic oil from the date-hke
fruit of the oleaster {Eloeagnus angustifolius)^
and used it for healing wounds, though the
Zaqum (as the Arabs call it) with its spikes often
over an inch long, is said to flourish in hell and fur-
nish fruit for unbehevers. ^ There were many other
plants whose virtues she knew and whose secrets
she carefully kept to herself. But her forte was
prophecy. She foretold calamities or good news
with imperturbable peace of mind, passing the
while a long straw through the stem of her pipe
to enjoy the nicotine which she thus collected,
or sucking rather than chewing tobacco when the

* The Koran, Sura, xvii, 62.

DEATH BELL 43

other was lacking. Like every soothsayer, she
was extremely sober in words, and thus was never
compromised, — the same prophecy could be made
to apply to good or to evil.

IV

At last the time came for us to raise our camp
and return home. Row after row of black goat-
hair Fardies, filled with wheat, stood waiting to
be loaded on to the backs of the camels. Every-
thing had been packed ready for the departure,
which had been fixed for an early hour of the morn-
ing. Amidst the wailing of the jackals and the
darkness of the night, we had lain down to take
our last rest in the old camp, filled with a feeUng
of sadness at the thought that, in spite of all its
discomforts, we were about to leave it for ever.
Suddenly, just as the last cooings of the turtle-
doves were lulling us to sleep, the sound of a tiny
bell was heard in the distance. Soon the tinkling
was accompanied by a light, which rapidly drew
near. Looking anxiously in the direction of the
sound, old Im-Imhammad muttered through her
teeth : — " Maskeen ! Bara esh sharr ! — Poor
fellow ! Evil.

A horseman with bell and torch dashed up. It
was as the old soothsayer had expected : a Bedawi
boy had been bitten by a viper and according
to custom a messenger had been sent with bell
and torch to announce the sad news and search

44 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

for a remedy. Im-Imhammad quickly prepared
Zaqum-oil and fruit plaster, and inquired when
the accident happened. The envoy told her
** many hours before," whereupon a grave look
came into the old woman's eyes. She knew
that the boy would be dead before the remedy
arrived.

Im-Imhammad's last words as we started in
the half light preceding dawn were : —

" La ter'haloo ydme er'heelhum.
Wala tughussloo y6me ghaseelhum," ^

and gravely shaking her head at me, she added : —
" My child, Allah yesahhel 'alaik ! — May Allah
smooth the way for you ! "

As this was the general retreat of the Fellahin
of the Kaffrain, there was a great commotion on
the banks of the Jordan when we reached the great
river. Fellahin and Fellahat were busy pouring
the grain from the great Fardies on to out-spread
sacks ; others were filling the Kirbies. Camels and
donkeys were being stripped of their saddles and
bound at the jaws. The swimmers stood in readi-
ness and the non-swimmers had small inflated
Se'in^ on their backs to help them across the
stream. A fierce June sun poured its rays upon us.

At last everybody had crossed. Those of my

* " Forbear to start on their starting day," — that is, the day
on which the soul leaves the body. " Neither wash on the day
they are washed," — a reference to the washing of the dead before
entombment.

* Small Kirbies.

A NARROW ESCAPE 45

caravan had already started on their journey,
leaving me — the last as usual — to cross the Jordan
once more and fetch my mare. Just as the
last Fellah with his animals disappeared round the
marly hills I popped into the water and struck
out for the opposite bank.

But no sooner had I clambered ashore than I
heard a sound of galloping, and the next moment a
fully-armed Bedawi, with his spear pointed towards
me, drew up.

" Very glad to meet you/' he said, sarcastically.
" I see you are a perfect swimmer, and I am glad
to have arrived in time for I know nothing of your
art. There is myself, my mare, a valuable she-
camel and her young to be carried over the river.
Now, you will set to work at once to get us across,
beginning with the animals. And take care you
don't lose any, otherwise your mare and rifle will
be confiscated. Moreover, if you play me any
tricks, I shall leave your carcass to the Cheetahs
2tnd let your soul go to hell-fire, which is your
/ultimate lot, dog of an infidel ! "
' Dismounting and seizing my mare by its bridle,
he sat down on the sand and began, in a menacing
tone, to give me further orders : —

" Now, set to work cheerfully. You had better
begin with my 'Hamra, ^ which you'll tie very fast
on the other side. Then hurry back to take over
her yoimg, for if you are lazy the mother will

* A red cow-camel.

5— (2131)

46 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

break loose and cross over to her calf. Then you
would have to begin over again. This being done
you will fetch me. I know you would not risk
running away with my mare on this side the river,
but you might do so on the western side and then
join your caravan. So you take my mare the
last — and then do what you like, for I shall have
no further need of your services. Come now, hurry
up!"

And hurry I did. At every crossing he threat-
ened me with death should any of his animals
slip and be drowned.

Never shall I forget that crossing of the Jordan
with the Bedawi's red cow-camel. She bellowed
continuously for her calf and pulled in the opposite
direction, endeavouring to return. All the time
the swift current of the Jordan was carrying me
down stream, trying my muscles — weary with four
hours* swimming — to the uttermost. How I raged,
inwardly, at that ironical savage, and how ashamed
I felt at being treated Uke a vile slave ! There
was nothing for it, however, but to work hard and
cheerfully.

When, finally, I landed the camel she was
simply raving, and I had great difficulty in making
her kneel down under the shadow of a lofty poplar
and binding her knees, so that she could not rise.
My second crossing was easy, — the calf, like a
Bedawiy6, followed calmly and with a look of
confidence in her baby eyes. And no sooner

WILD THOUGHTS 47

had we landed than it galloped towards its mother,
crying as though they had been parted for months.

The Bedawi was waiting for me on my return.
He was stripped and equipped with Se'in on his
back. On his head, in a broad packet, were his
personal belongings and my rifle.

" This," he said, pointing to the bundle, *' is
the safest way. Allah is indeed great to have sent
this infidel to work for me."

As we stepped into the Jordan, a grim thought
flashed through my mind : " Suppose, when we
reach mid-stream, I let him go ? " But the next
moment my Christian training corrected me.
" No, — that would never do : he is a man, with a
soul, after all. Besides, the act would be a
cowardly one. . . . Could Im-Imhammad but see
me in that position would she sanction the aban-
donment of a fellow-creature ? No. She would
say : * Why did you start when there was a
funeral ? But you would have your own way,
and now you must bear the consequences.' "
Musing thus, I tightened my grip on the cord,
and a few minutes later dragged the Bedawi ashore.

" You have worked nicely," said the savage,
who, in spite of his authoritative words, looked
terrified at the crossing. " Now you can fetch
my mare, a prize animal ; and as a reward I
will remain with you until you reach your caravan."

I thanked him for his generosity, went back
for the most valuable animal of all — himself

48 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

included, and brought her over, as docile as the
young camel. When all were gathered on the
western banks of the Jordan I gave a great sigh
of relief. Then I went to fetch my faithful mare,
Athene.

It took me but a moment to dress on getting
back, to seize my rifle which the Bedawi had placed
against a willow, and to vault into the saddle.
At that moment a boar and sow, with seven or
eight Uttle ones, came rushing by. The Bedawi,
already on his horse, at once set off in pursuit,
shouting to me to follow. But all I wanted was to
flee from the scene of my adventure and reach my
friends. A word in Athene's ear was enough, —
with a snort of joy and a bound she was off,
galloping at the top of her speed across the plains
and scattering the jerboas, porcupine mice, and
other small rodents which burrow in the sand, in
all directions.

Saleh el-Kaak, his sons and the other Fellahin
of our caravan were waiting for me near the
ruins of *Ain-Sultan, beyond Jericho, wondering
what had become of me, but, suffocated by the
heat, making no attempt to find me. They
cursed the father of the Bedawi for having detained
me ; then dismissed the matter from their minds.

A long six hours' ride up the stony roads of
Judaea, a few ascents and descents on Mount
Olivet, down the Kedron, up Moriah and Zion,
brought these episodes of my youth to a close.

THE DREADED " WAKHAM " 49

V
" Why has Philip not come ? " anxiously asked
my father, in Arabic, when we arrived and his
eyes glanced from one to the other . . . Wild and
sunburnt indeed I must have looked to have
thus been unrecognised by my own father !
He could not believe that a two months* sojourn
in the Bedamn country could have produced so
complete a transformation.

* « ♦ ♦

'* Is this the result of too great a strain ? Is
it the dreaded Wakham, or malarial fever, that has
put the boy in this condition ? " asked the English
doctor of Jerusalem when I awoke after three
weeks unconsciousness. " However, the danger
is over now. We shall pull him through, after
all."

Yes, the danger was over then, but I had to
struggle against my illness for nearly six months
more.

It was many years before I went into that
death-trap of the Jordan again, and then only
for a day or two at a time, on tour and under
vastly different conditions.

/

Ill

SONS OF THE PHILISTINES

I

Muhammad Moos a was at his prayers, and as he
prayed he combed his flowing pepper-and-salt
beard. More than usual fervour entered, on this
August evening, into his praying and his combing,
for he was about to make a journey on which it
was meet that Allah should lovingly watch over
one of the descendants of his Prophet and that this
descendant — no other than the handsome, black-
eyed, aquiline-nosed, dark-skinned Sherif Muham-
mad Moosa himself — should be impeccable in his
personal appearance.

" Blessed be the name of Allah, who protecteth
his servants in the hour of danger," murmured
the kneehng Muhammad Moosa. " Watch, oh !
aU powerful one, over Sherif Moosa and his com-
panions. Grant that the camels stumble not, —
that they travel to Jerusalem unheeded and
unharmed. Thrust aside from our path all with
inquisitive eyes, for thy servant is a man of peace,
who loveth not the use of force. But should,
perchance, the enemies of thy servant stumble in
his way, give him — oh ! protector of those who
bring forth fruits from the soil — the strength to
smite and put them to shame."

50

KHALEEL'S TOILET 51

A sound of footsteps at the entrance to the hut
made the kneehng Fellah turn his head. It was
Khaleel Ibrahim, a dark-skinned, eagle-nosed,
black-bearded man of thirty-five, dressed and
equipped as though for a journey. His principal
clothing consisted of the Thob, a white shirt with
open front and wide sleeves, which revealed his
hairy breast and bare arms almost up to the
shoulders. On his head was a red cap, surrounded
by a large yellow and grey striped turban ; on his
feet were raw camel-hide shoes, known as Watta.
Encircling his waist was a broad leather girdle,
and to this were attached a number of iron hooks,
to which were suspended a powder horn of solid
wood, a long chain with a knife dangling at the
end, a leather bag to hold lead and bullets for
firearms, a tobacco pouch with a pipe, and a
smaller pouch containing flint and steel and tinder,
made from a composite plant called Soufaan.

Khaleel Ibrahim had come to tell his chief that
the hour for departure had arrived. Bringing
his prayer to an abrupt termination, Muhammad
Moosa rose to his feet and, as he arranged his
immense green turban (a sign of his claim to pro-
phetic descent) gave his orders. A complicated
piece of work — this arrangement of the Sherif's
turban, his caps and their contents ; and one
that took much longer than the giving of a few
brief instructions regarding the loading of the
camels. Besides the white cap, or Takiyeh, he

52 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

wore the red Tarbush, and between these the
grey felt Lubbaad. Between the Lubbaad and
the Tarbush, Muhammad Moosa kept his cigarette-
papers, his tax-papers and other documents, and
tucked away between the three caps and the
turban were Httle bottles of tar or scent and the
wooden comb with which, whilst saying his prayers,
he daily combed his beard.

The loading of the six camels was already well
advanced when Muhammad Moosa issued into the
open air. His five companions were quick and
skilful workers. Khaleel Ibrahim, with his wide
sleeves folded out of the way under his Shmaar,
set them a constant example. Besides, was he
not Moosa' s right-hand man and feared almost as
much as the master ?

A more homogeneous band than this little party
of camel-drivers it would have been difficult to
find in the whole length and breadth of the plains
of the Philistines. Personal interests, family
ties and the sympathy which springs up between
men of the same town or region indissolubly
bound them together. Khaleel Ibrahim was a
native of Ashdod, one of the chief towns of
Philistia. Ehmad Jabber, a young man of twenty-
eight just home from military service, was also
from that place. Ethman Abd el-'Hei, although
bom in Gaza, had so long Uved in Ashdod, where
he was married to two wives, Halime and Fatme,
that he was regarded by Khaleel and Ehmad

WEAPONS 53

as a brother townsman. Abdallah Saleh, about
thirty years of age, was from Shuweikeh, the
Bibhcal Shochoh, where David slew Gohath.^
And the twenty-year-old Yesmain 'Ali, whose
black beard was just sprouting, hailed from
'Ain-Shams, the Beth-shemesh of the Bible. ^

Yet these sons of the Philistines were singularly
diversified in their personal characteristics — and
to a certain extent also as regards their accoutre-
ments. With his dandily-trimmed fair beard,
grey eyes and regular Grecian nose, Ehmad Jabber
was an Apollo in comparison with Ethman Abd-
el-^Hei. Ethman, a man of close upon forty, had
a thick Egyptian nose, a dark but scanty beard
and moustachios, and a physiognomy which well
accorded with his warlike equipment, consisting
of a goodly selection of his comrades' arms and a
formidable Naboot, an oak club, all in one piece,
which could be used either against an enemy or
simply to induce the camels to increase their
pace. Ehmad' s favourite weapon was a curved,
double-edged dagger, modestly designated by the
name Shibriyeh — the span long, — although, as
usual, it was twice that length. Its sheath was
ornamented with a brass plate, bearing his name,
and this detail indicated a certain coquetry which
appeared also in his dress. As a rule, his clothing
difered but sUghtly from Khaleel's. But on the
present occasion his turban was smaller and

^ I. Samuel xvii. * I. Samuel vi. 9.

54 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

adorned with red stripes. His shoes — or Surma,
as they are called in Arabic — were of blood-red,
tanned sheep-leather, with camel-hide soles and
very pointed turned-up toes. And instead of the
Abba, that brown and grey mantle almost uni-
versally adopted by the Fellahin of Palestine, he
wore a dark blue and black cloak, called a Shaale.
Abdallah Saleh's short and almost red beard,
his blue eyes and fair skin, sunburnt and freckled,
suggested descent from one of the Crusaders. His
equipment was much the same as that of the others.
But his turban was brown, and behind the right
ear the end of his hair-tuft, the Shushey — by which
Mohammed the Prophet will take up his own
people on the day of judgment — was peeping out.
Over his shirt he wore a short yellow and white
jacket, and on the third finger of his right hand was
a silver ring with a huge stone, on which, as he
was a municipal councillor of his native village,
his name was engraved. With this ring, at times,
he sealed official documents, thus dispensing with
the signing of his name, which he would have found
a difficulty in doing. For, like all the others,
including even Sherif Moosa, he was illiterate.
Long ago he had known a few letters, but all he
could do now was to make out numbers, which he
called ** Indian figures." His Shmaar, too, was
ornamented by a couple of multicoloured tassels,
made by a girl of Shuweikeh when, years ago,
he had silently courted her.

LOADING THE CAMELS 55

There was evidence of a feminine hand also
on young Yesmain ^AH's dress. His white cap,
which he took good care should extend well below
his red Tarbush, was neatly trimmed with silk-
laced ornaments, — delicate work by one of his
admirers of which he was mighty proud. There
was a quaint mixture of refinement and savagedom
about Yesmain ^Ali. Like every Fellah, his ears
was diminutive and bent down by his caps and
turban. His Thob was always pulled up under
his girdle, leaving his legs bare to the knees, and
in the pouch thus formed by his shirt he carried
his handkerchief, his tobacco, and sometimes —
since he often went barefooted — his shoes. In his
waist-belt was stuck a Tubbar, an iron-headed
hooked club, leaving his hands free to handle his
gun, with which, when after partridges, or any
big bird, he was an excellent shot.

Muhammad Moosa himself took part in the load-
ing of the last camel. Like Eleazar, he called
it by its name and ordered it, with a guttural
sound, to bow—" Ikh !-ikh !-ikh ! "

At the sound of its master's voice the animal
knelt upon the level ground. Meanwhile, Khaleel
and AbdaUah had brought forth the huge black
goats' hair sacks with which it was to be loaded,
— some four to five hundred pounds weight in aU,
and these everybody assisted in hoisting into their
places. The camel, besides a halter and a long
guide-rope with which to lead it, was provided

56 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

with a pack-saddle, with a deep cavity in the middle
for the hump and two thick poles attached right
and left J and longer than the saddle proper. To
these sticks were tied the ropes to hold the load
in place and a girdle to keep the saddle in position.
The load was divided into three: two big ones
right and left, and one resting on the saddle's flat
top.

** Howell! " cried Sherif Moosa, when everything
was securely fixed, and the camel rose, to take its
place with the others in a long file, the halter-rope
of one attached to the tail-strap of another.

II

The final preparations for departure had been
made and Sherif Moosa, with his hand on the guide-
rope of the leading camel, had given the order
to start. Slowly, in the half light of evening,
the little band moved over the plains of the
Philistines.

Long, waiUng sounds were beginning to fill the
whole of the lowlands : the voices of jackals
hunting about for carcasses or other debris. One
jackal responded to another, — then two, then ten,
then twenty, and finally hundreds, all howling
together. No one is afraid of them, since they
never attack man ; nor are they afraid of men,
who pass them by unheeded.

On these fertile plains, from Jaffa to Gaza
and from Ascalon to Zoreah and the rock of

FELLAH INDEPENDENCE 57

Etam, the hiding-place of Samson/ are miles
upon miles of beautiful wheat and barley-fields.
There are tobacco plants, too, growing from two to
six feet in height, and the dry leaves of which
the Turkish Government buys and monopolizes.
But the modern Fellah of Palestine is a true
descendant of the Phihstines, — he has in no way
changed in character, and he starts — like Sherif
Muhammad Moosa and his companions — to sell his
tobacco by smuggling it into Jerusalem. He knows
that, on the long way winding up the Vale of Sorek
(Wad-es-Sarrar) and on the lowlands, no Govern-
ment agent would dare to venture. It was common
knowledge that anyone approaching a party of
smugglers would be shot down without mercy.
This was their land and their tobacco, — not the
hated Turks'. They were legitimately defending
their own possessions, the fruit of long hours of
toil under the broiling sun. It was war to the
bitter end should any intruder attempt to bar
their way between Ashdod (Sedud) and the Plain
of Rephaim, near Jerusalem.

Although they knew that they were in all
security in these byways (unless some spy should
denounce them, which was unUkely), Moosa 's men
did not neglect to keep a sharp look out to right
and left, and with their guns ever ready.

" Masha Allah ! By God's will, our camels
are strong and good," said Ethman Abd-el-'Hei

* Judges XV. 8.

^

58 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

to Abdallah Saleh, who was immediately in front
of him.

" And Allah, in his goodness, has put out the
moon for us," replied Abdallah.

" Truly everything is in our favour," chimed
in young Yesmain 'Ali. " But we have yet to
get the tobacco over the walls of Jerusalem."

" All in good time," exclaimed Khaleel Ibrahim.
" Allah will not abandon his servants in the hour
of need. Besides, Ehmad Jabber and I have a
plan for tricking the tobacco-inspector. We will
talk about that later."

Sherif Moosa was too occupied with the camels
to take part in the conversation. From time to
time he encouraged the animals to maintain their
pace for four kilometres an hour with a sharp cry
of " Allah ! Ya musahel !— Oh ! leveller of the
road ! " Sometimes he would utter the warning
" Ikhly ! — Look out, mind the stones ! " where-
upon the leading camel would carefully avoid the
obstacle and, pricking up his short ears in the act
of listening, would turn his large inteUigent head
in the direction of the voice, chewing the cud the
while. To kill time, Moosa also played a mono-
tonous air on his Neiye, a double flute made of
eagle-wing bones and ornamented with a few
primitive drawings. The camels much appre-
ciated this music, lifting up their heads and
affecting a few dancing steps, until " Ikhly ! "
once more reminded them to beware.

A REPTILE ACCOMPLICE 59

Shortly after midnight the smugglers passed
near to one of the tobacco growing villages. As
there was still room on the camels, Moosa decided
to increase his store by means of a trick well known
to tobacco-thieves. A lizard was his accomplice,
— the big thorny stalue-lizard, the weU-known
Hardon of Palestine, which is about seven inches
in length, with long claws and a very resisting
tail. ^ It runs up the walls very quickly and
lays hold of any stone or bush it can find. Catch
it by its tail and pull, and the harder it tightens
its grip. Knowing this peculiarity, Moosa took
advantage of it in the following manner. Khaleel
Ibrahim, who always carried a couple of stalue-
lizards with him in a leather bag, produced one
of them, and, attaching a cord to its tail, tossed it
on to the flat top of one of the village houses,
where the smugglers suspected that tobacco leaves
might be suspended on strings to dry. The
Hardon, in its endeavours to escape, attached
itself to one of the strings and held tight. As soon
as Khaleel' s experienced hand felt that his living
fishing-tackle had got a firm hold, he puUed hard —
and down came the Hardon with the coveted
tobacco.

In the terrible Wady Esmain, the road led
through the dry river bed, strewn with huge
washed-down stones. The only sign of the past
winter's moisture were a few Agnus castus plants.

^ See The Grey Trio, p. 20.

60 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Along the high cHffs and in the almost impenetrable
brushwood a few leopards — the last of their kind
— lay in wait for any stray animal, such as a goat
or a lamb, that might come that way. ^

Day was about to break when, on the second
day of their march, the file of camels reached
Battir — the Bether of Solomon's Song. ^ Moosa
and his men, tired and dusty, camped under the
olive-groves. Weary, too, were the animals,
requiring no invitation to kneel down and be
relieved of the sacks of tobacco, which were
promptly hidden away in the thickets near by,
to be ready in case of emergency. Soon, everyone
(even the guardians) was sound asleep, — everyone
save the young sportsman Yesmain 'Ali, who, ere
he lay down to rest, sUpped away with the quiet-
ness of a leopard in the direction of one of the
vineyards, now full of Hamdany, the largest and
most luscious grapes in Palestine. As quick
as lightning, he lifted the hedge and filled the
corner of his Abba with sufficient fruit to last the
party for the day. In a few minutes he was back
again ; a moment later he himself was slumbering.
And for two hours the only sounds that could be
heard were the heavy breathing of the sleepers and
the crunching of the brushwood by the frugal
lowland camels.

1 Since the building of the Jaffa to Jerusalem railway in 1892
leopards have entirely disappeared from this region.

2 ii. 17.

THE VALLEY OF THE ROSES 61

III

Khaleel Ibrahim and Ehmad Jabber had unfolded
to Sherif Moosa their plan for frustrating the vigi-
lance of the tobacco-inspector of Jerusalem and it
had received the chief's approval. They had
talked the matter over whilst eating Yesmain
All's grapes, and the outcome of their conversation
was that Ehmad Jabber had been deputed to set
out immediately and with all speed for Jerusalem,
a distance of eight miles from Battir.

The day was still young when Ehmad, having
passed through the fertile Valley of the Roses
with its many fountains — one of which, near
Welejeh, is said to be PhiHp's Well^ — reached his
destination. The FeUahat were still passing in and
out of the Jaffa Gate with their round baskets of
vegetables, or, squatting on the ground in the
street, were offering them for sale. Ehmad lost
no time in proceeding to the house of the Inspector,
situated near the Damascus Gate, and found the
Bowaab, 2 clothed in a spotless white gown and
with an equally immaculate turban on his head,
sitting at the entrance, reciting his prayers and
marking the repetitions on his rosary.

" Sabhak bil kher, — Good morning," said Ehmad.

" Allah ye sabhak bil kher, — May God grant
you a good morning," replied the Bowaab.

* Acts of the Apostles, viii. 36.

* One of the black janitors of Takrur, who, on account of their
reputation for faithfulness, are universally employed as guardians.

6— (ai3i) .

62 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

" Is the Effendi at home ? " asked Ehmad.

" Wallah musch ^aref, — By God, I know not/'
answered the janitor evasively, for Hke all Orientals
he was cautious in replying to direct questions.

Ehmad Jabber made a sign to the keeper of the
nearest coffee-house to bring him two cups of
moka and a small chair. When he had sat
down in the street and begun sipping the hot coffee
with evident delight, he made further preparations
for a lengthy stay by ordering two narghiles.
Whilst the rose-water in the bottles of the pipes
was gently bubbling and the smokers inhaled long
draughts of the sweet-scented Persian Tombak
(the only tobacco fit for a narghile), they conversed
about the scarcity of water in Jerusalem, the dan-
ger of a locust invasion and the trying times, as
though the Inspector had been long forgotten.
But he was ever uppermost in Ehmad' s mind,
and he kept wondering how he should once more
introduce the subject. . . . Better speak of the
matter no more, he decided ; — it would be much
more simple and infinitely pleasanter to sit there
patiently until the Effendi appeared. So, when his
first pipe was smoked, he called for a second, which
the Kahwadji, or coffee-house keeper, prepared
and presented in the orthodox manner. The
Tombak was washed, the darkest water was
squeezed away, the tobacco was piled on the
pipe's head and the live coals were applied.
Then, with his hand on his breast, the Kahwadji

PILGRIMAGES TO MECCA 63

set down the pipe in front of his customer — a
wealthy customer indeed, since he could afford to
sit there and smoke two consecutive narghiles ! —
and respectfully offered him the long tube of beau-
tiful green leather, with its ivory mouthpiece.
" Tefaddal — If you please," said the Madani,
or townsman, in his own manner and idiom.
*' Eesht, — May you live for ever," — replied the
countryman, briefly. And he instantly resumed
his conversation with the Bowaab, hoping every
moment that the Inspector would not be long.
By this time he had learnt that the janitor's name
was 'Hadj Imhammad Abu Bekr and had heard
how he had come by his title, — viz., by a seven
years' stay in Mecca. A white man can receive
the title of 'Hadj (pilgrim) after a single pilgrimage,
but a negro must be present seven times at the great
feast of ^Arafat to be entitled to add it to his name.
And Imhammad Abu Bekr commented on this
manifest injustice until Ehmad, whose thoughts
were elsewhere, was conscious only of a meaningless
torrent of words.

At last, about twelve o'clock, Ehmad's patience
was rewarded. There was a sound of quick
footsteps along a corridor and the Inspector, a
small-statured man with a clean shaven face and
diminutive moustache, and dressed, save for his
fez, like a European, appeared through the
entrance. Ehmad rose, and with a deep bow said : —

" I have grave news, Effendi."

64 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

" What is it ? " asked the Inspector, whose name
was Abd-el-Kareem. A note of distrust and dis-
dain, ever present in relations between townsmen
and countrymen, or vice versa, was apparent in
his voice.

" I have information regarding some tobacco
smugglers," replied the Fellah, in a low tone.
" But we must speak apart, if you would hear
all."

Abd-el-Kareem, who was in the custom of
receiving information from outsiders — spies and
traitors who readily sold themselves for a few
pieces of silver — walked a little way down the
street, with Ehmad at his side. When well out of
earshot, Ehmad Jabber told a circumstantial story
of how he had discovered that certain *' enemies "
of his were on their way from the direction of
Damascus with a consignment of tobacco ; how
he had followed them under cover of the darkness
and, through overhearing a conversation in an
olive-grove, had learnt the hour at which they
intended to smuggle their cargo over the Golden
Gate.

" With the swiftness of an eagle, I left them to
talk over their evil designs," continued Ehmad.
" For I was anxious that the Effendi should receive
the news and be ready to place his all-powerful
hand on these miscreants. But I have a condition
to make — and only on that condition can I lead
you, at the appointed hour, to the place where the

A TRUSTFUL EFFENDI 65

smugglers will pass their goods over the walls, —
namely, that you come alone and that when I have
pointed out the band you will allow me to depart
and hide. For I fear the vengeance of my
enemies and would flee from them as before a
leper."

Abd-el-Kareem Effendi readily consented to
this quite natural condition. Ehmad was a
bom actor and the manner in which he displayed
fear at every mention of his terrible enemies would
have deceived a much astuter man than the
Inspector. Besides, the Effendi was in a con-
dition, psychologically, to be deceived. For
months he had been on the look out for an oppor-
tunity to distinguish himself and win protection ;
and here, at last, he saw his chance of rising to a
higher position and escaping from his generally
humdrum life.

The two men promised each other strict secrecy,
and the Effendi having told his informant to be
sure to call him at the appointed hour, they parted.
And whilst Ehmad, with a faint smile on his hand-
some face, hied to a favourite coffee-house, where
he knew he would be sure to meet more than one
person interested in the illicit tobacco trade, the
overjoyed Inspector hastened away to give orders
to aU his forces to lie in ambush near St. Stephen's
Gate and to keep a sharp look out in the direction
of the Damascus road, whence the Fellah had told
him the smugglers were coming.

66 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

V

Meanwhile, Muhammad Moosa was still in camp
at Battir, south west of Jerusalem. The evening
meal was in course of preparation, — a frugal meal
of grapes and cakes baked on coals, just like those
prepared for the Prophet Elijah. ^ Every way-
faring Fellah, carrying his flour in a leather bag,
the Jrab, made of the skin of a kid, knows how to
prepare these unleavened cakes and, like the
children of Israel,^ bake them on a roadside
fire.

When the sun had set, the sacks of tobacco were
again brought forth, and quickly and silently
the camels were loaded. The men inspected their
weapons. Swords were slightly oiled, so that
they could be easily drawn from the wooden
scabbards. The flints of the firearms were tested,
and every gun and pistol was loaded, so that,
in case of need, everyone would have firearms in
double. There is no more suspicious person in the
world than a Fellah. Friend or foe, smuggler or
honest camel-driver, are all to be avoided in the
darkness of the night.

The three villages of Battir, Welejeh and Malha
could be passed without being observed, for all
are about a mile or so from the main road or the
dry river-bed, and Fellahin go to bed early. The
German colony on the Plain of Rephaim presented
no very serious difficulty, although the colonists

* I. Kings xix. 6. * Exodus xii. 39.

GATES OF JERUSALEM 67

had lights and, even up to a late hour, were about
their homes, or in the beer-houses. Foreigners in
Palestine know little or nothing of the doings or
even the language of the inhabitants of the coun-
try. But there was some danger in crossing the
Valley of Hinnom and in skirting the walls of
Jerusalem, — past Zion's Gate, the Dung Gate,
Ophel and the comer of the Temple. The senti-
nels, however, were dozing and the night was
fairly dark, consequently all these danger points
were passed without incident.

Since the doors of Jerusalem close about sunset,
so that nobody can enter the city save through
the Jaffa Gate, on the western side, the Turkish
sentinels posted near the five other entrances
are not habitually vigilant ; the nearer midnight
approaches the more they are inclined to slumber.
On the August night when Sherif Muhammad
Moosa and his six camels drew near to the walls of
Jerusalem they were all sound asleep. The only
watchers were Abd-el-Kareem Effendi and Ehmad
Jabber, waiting above the Golden Gate, and the
Inspector's soldiers at St. Stephen's Gate, futilely
peering into the darkness and straining their ears
to catch the sound of camels and men on the
march, — a sound which was never to come. The
only other wakeful living things on the eastern
walls of the Holy City were hundreds of ravens
which croaked and flew up and down the for-
tifications as though conscious that this quiet

68 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

place was for once to be the scene of some unusual
occurrence.

Nearer and nearer the silent-footed camels
approached. Moosa and his men spoke not a word.
All their thought and energy was centred on the
idea that they might have to fight, — on the danger
of their enterprise, — on their eerie surroundings.
They could not suppress a kind of superstitious
terror, inspired by the indistinct outlines of the
walls and buildings. The round head-like stones
which project over the tombs in the Mohammedan
cemetery (the tombs of believers haunted by the
ghosts of those who had done evil in their lifetime)
looked like so many guardians peeping out to
detect them ; the sacred dome of the Mosque of
Omar on the Haram above seemed like a gigantic
mountain ready to topple over and crush them.
Sherif Moosa wondered whether Ehmad Jabber had
succeeded in his mission. Where was the Inspec-
tor and his soldiers at that moment ? Would
they have to fight, after all ?

The Muazzin on the minaret beyond the pre-
cincts of the Temple called the faithful to prayer :
" Hei u 'alia saleh, — Awake and to your
prayers ! " It was midnight.

Just then the well-known voice of Ehmad rang
out through the stillness of the night : —

" Friend or foe ? "

" Friend," answered Muhammad, who was still
with the leading camel.

-y*"**

OVER THE WALL 69

And quietly and quickly he ordered his men to
make the camels kneel against the walls^ awaiting
the signal for passing the tobacco into the city.

" They are here, Effendi/' whispered Ehmad to
Abd-el-Kareem. " But they must have deviated
from the Damascus road and so escaped the
attention of the soldiers at St. Stephen's Gate.
However, they shall not slip through our fingers.
I have an idea. I will let you down the walls by a
rope ; then I will go and inform the soldiers at
St. Stephen's Gate ; and whilst you are meeting
them below I will rouse the sentinels, who surely
must be slumbering at their posts. In this way
we shall cut off their retreat — they will be as
though within the meshes of a net. Quick,
Effendi ! — we must act promptly, otherwise the
enemy will escape us."

Already Ehmad had drawn a rope from beneath
his Thob and was fastening one end around
Abd-el-Kareem' s waist. The Inspector, over-
anxious about his future, at once fell in with the
Fellah's proposals, and a few moments later was
being slowly lowered over the waUs. But when
half-way down his progress stopped. The cun-
ning Ehmad Jabber had gained his ends. Securely
fastening the rope to a projecting piece of rock,
he left the Effendi to swing in the air and grapple
against the wall's rough masonry.

A few minutes later, and not fifty yards away
from where Abd-el-Kareem, foaming with rage,

70 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

was hanging, Ehmad's strong young arms had
assisted Yesmain Ali to scale the walls of Jeru-
salem. Together they hauled up the sacks of
tobacco and passed them through the Temple
to the well-known shops.

Sherif Muhammad Moosa's camels and camel-
drivers were half-way home again when, late
the next morning, the scorched and exhausted
Inspector was delivered from his trying position.
His first impulse was to make known this outrage
on a Government official and seek out the offending
Ehmad and his accomplices, but, feeling as foolish
as a fox taken in by a hen, he wisely decided to
say nothing more about it, and thus the truth was
long withheld from the public.

IV

EHMAD IMHAMAD'S VISION

I HAD just read the 96th verse of the 2nd Sura of
the Koran and was puzzled as to its exact meaning.
European translators have not always been pre-
cise, either in their translation of the Torah (Pen-
tateuch) or in that of the Koran ; in spite of all
their efforts, oracles have remained obscure.
However, here is very nearly the wording of the
original text which set me thinking : —

" They (unbelieving Jews) have followed the
works which the demons prepared against King
Solomon. (These works, as Yahia explains, were
books of magic which the demons had hidden
under the throne of Solomon. After the king's
death they brought them forth and made the
people believe that the king's knowledge came from
these books.) Solomon remained fervent and the
demons alone were unbelievers. They taught
men the art of magic and the knowledge of the
two angels Haroot and Maroot in Babylon.
(Haroot and Maroot, Yahia continues to say,
were sent to the earth, to Babylon, to teach justice.
They indeed judged with equity until Venus, in
aU her splendour, came to plead against her hus-
band. The Angels were dazzled by her beauty and
charms, and told her of their feelings, whereupon
she vanished. Consequently they were condemned

71

72 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

to remain in Babylon until Judgment Day.)
The Angels told everybody before teaching him :
We are the temptation, do not act against the
belief. They taught concerning those things which
bring forth division between a woman and her
husband. But, without Allah's will, they could
harm nobody. They taught what was harmful,
nothing useful. They did not know that whoever
buys books of magic cannot possess manners and
clothes in a future hfe."

How comes it, thought I, on reading this con-
demnation of magic, based on an older passage
in the Hebrew Bible, ^ that Ehmad Imhamad, a
dervish of the Bedawi order who had given me
much information regarding those of his calling,
should possess books of magic and foretell events
by reading them in the sand ? Immediately the
idea of consulting him on the subject occurred to
me. But where was he Hkely to be found ? As
he was a wandering dervish and gained a livelihood
by his art, he might be wandering about the Plains
of Sharon, somewhere between Ekron, the ancient
Baal-zebub, ^ Naby-Rubin, near the mouth of the
River Rubin, and Sheikh Sidna 'Ali, north of
Jaffa. Unless he were on the banks of the green
River *Auja ? There was but one way of deciding
the question, — to jump astride my horse and seek

^ Deuteronomy xviii. 10-11.

2 II. Kings i. 16. Flies (zebub) are so numerous there that
it is no wonder they were considered as a power, and power is a
god.

THE DERVISH 73

him out. Accordingly I rode to his native village,
Beit Dejan, near to the place where Dagon had his
temple in the days of the Philistines. But he had
departed that morning towards the south, possibly
to Lydda or Ramleh, where he had many chents.
However, after another hour in the saddle, I
espied him sitting near Btr-ez-Zeibak, known as the
well where St. George met the dragon.

He was dreaming in the sun, his short spear,
ornamented with green and red ribbons round the
base of the blade, stuck in the ground near him.
His long black hair, parted in the middle, fell over
his shoulders, and, since it had been freshly
anointed with oil that very morning, shone in the
sunshine. He wore only a white flowing garment
with a leather belt. Beside him lay a black mantle
and a satchel containing several tin cases, in which
he kept his dervish diplomas, a few pieces of
incense and alum, a few dates and figs, and a
small square book, tightly wrapped in green and
red cloth and tied with silk strings. His bare
feet, as well as his brown face and arms, were
scrupulously clean, for he had not forgotten any
of his regular five prayers, including his ablutions,
for a very long time. In his right hand he held a
short almond rod, the Mehjane, which most
dervishes carry about with them, since it is said
to have the power to heal the sick and drive away
serpents. It reminded me of the rod of Moses. ^

* Exodus vii.

74 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Alighting from my mare, I tethered her to an
olive tree and walked towards him with a greeting.

" Good morning, oh Sheikh ! "

" A hundred mornings with peace be yours,
Abu Tuna," replied Ehmad Imhamad.

He called me by the name under which I
generally went in the East : Abu Tuna, — i.e.j
the Father of Fortuna, the name of my eldest
daughter.

I handed him my tobacco-pouch and apologized
for having forgotten the matches. Without wast-
ing words, he opened a small leather purse and
bringing out a square flint stone, a piece of steel
and the fibres of a dry plant set them down beside
us. After we had rolled our cigarettes in silence,
he struck fire and handed me the small brand,
saying :—

" May its heat spare you."

" And may you never feel its evil," I repHed,
as I prepared to light my cigarette.

A few more compliments passed between us,
after which we sat smoking in silence ; and as the
blue clouds went up in circles both of us meditated,
— I thinking of how to begin the conversation and
he of the questions that the Franji (Frank) had
come to ask him. It was Ehmad who at last
broke the silence.

** Peace to you. How are you ? "

" God's peace be with you," said I. " Thanks
to Allah, the Lord of the Universe, — II Hamdu

/. H. Hcdladjian, Haifa

A Dervish

ORIENTAL COMPLIMENTS 75

lillah Rab el 'Alameen, — I came merely to see
about your health."

" Allah be praised ! True friends find each
other. Your politeness and good education speak
out of you."

" Oh ! Sheikh, I am but a child compared to
you and your exquisite ways. Now that I have
seen you, I beg you to allow me to continue on my
way."

Saying which I rose and stretched out my hand.
But he took it and pulled me down to him, saying :

" Stay awhile. It is some time since we talked.
Are you in a hurry ? Remember that Hurry is
from Satan. God preserve us ! Put away your
Franji ideas and let us have a chat."

Only too willing to do as he bid me, I sat down
and touched his bag.

" Ah ! Sheikh, how full of knowledge this is.
What is there unknown to you ? "

And I took out his book of magic.

" No," he said, " avoid that evil work. You
know that, though I read it and by its help find
the clue to many mysteries unknown to the sons of
Adam, it really is wicked to use it. And I have
taken a secret oath that I will destroy it as soon as
Fate (Naseeb) calls me to a better way. To tell
you the truth, they (the Jan or Genii) have revealed
to me so many starthng things that I think it is
more comfortable not to know anything more
about them. You know, quite as well as myself.

76 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

that when Iblis (the devil) lived quietly in Paradise,
long before there were human beings, he had
many children, who went about in peace in gardens
with running waters of eternal life, purified wives
and contentment, side by side with Allah who
looked with love on his servants. But when Allah
created Adam and Eve, and commanded Iblis
to worship Adam, he refused and blasphemed with
his children, 1 whereupon he was called Shatam,
or Blasphemer, and sent to Earth with all his
people. But as he drank Eternal Life Water he
roams about until Resurrection Day doing what-
ever harm he can to the sons of Adam. He it
was who taught Haroot and Maroot the art of
sorcery and magic, so that harm would continue."

I was glad that Ehmad Imhamad had touched
on the subject I had at heart, and I knew that
once he had started he would tell me much more,
provided that I did not show eagerness to know his
secrets at once.

" You know the 'Ajami whose shrine is up in
the hills of the Jerusalem region," he went on,
in a low voice. " Well, thanks to my book and
cabahstic signs, he appeared to me right in his
shrine, in the forest above Beit-Mahsir. It was a
Thursday evening and I sat there beating my
drum, accompanying cymbals and drums which
were being beaten by unseen legions in honour of
the Wely, as the spirits of departed dervishes

* Koran, Sura ii. verse 32.

THE 'AJAMI 77

usually do when humans do not accomplish their
devotions. I was just in the act of burning
incense when suddenly a bright yellowish light
burst forth near the Mehrab (prayer-niche) and the
'Ajami himself appeared in long flowing robes,
amidst the clash of golden cymbals and the beating
of a silver drum covered with gazelle hide. He
bowed and rose, surrounded by green and red fires,
the smoke of which filled all the Mosque (Jame*) ;
only, unlike ordinary smoke, it did not hurt
the eyes but gave forth a precious odour of rose-
water and myrrh. * Neither move nor speak,'
said the 'Ajami, in a solemn voice. * Beware of
interrupting me, either by signs or by words.
Listen to all that I have to tell you, otherwise,
at the least indication of awe or astonishment, I
shall strike you — perhaps dead — and all will
vanish.' Acquiescing in my heart, I felt soft silk
cushions all about me, and when I was tired my
position was changed, as if someone had guessed
my feelings. At the same time the 'Ajami began
to speak in a clear voice, softer than the evening
breeze which murmured in the fir-trees round his
abode, more melodious than the song of the
thistle-finch and yet as energetic as if his words
had been of steel. He gave me permission to
repeat every word of what he said, if I chose to
do so when back again among humans ; but at
the same time, as I was then a sorcerer, he called
upon me to abandon magic and follow God.

7— (2131)

78 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Of course, as long as I lived by my wicked art, I
could not utter the name of Allah. My ' God
preserve us from him ' ^ was not efficacious, so I
left that for others to pronounce. But thanks to
Him, the Creator of the Universe, I am back again,
and thanks to my Lord the 'Ajami, though I am
not of his dervishes, I found the right way once more.
" * Listen,' said the 'Ajami. * If I change my
place or go further off, do not attempt to follow me,
for I will let you hear me no matter how far away
I am.' And saying this he took breath and stood
above the ground, with his spear turned in the
direction of El Kuds esh Shareef (Jerusalem).
' My name is 'Ajami and a Stranger I always was.
I know that the sons of Adam think my name
means *' a Persian " or "the bearer of date-stones,"
but I know best. I was created in Paradise with
legions of other beings ; and in his wisdom AUah
knew that some would be his servants for ever,
some were destined to go down on Earth and be
human beings for a time, as prophets, saints,
welies ; some would revolt against his orders for a
fraction of eternity and be converted again, whUst
others would be turned into hell-fire and, with
Ibhs, do harm among mankind. Paradise is the
garden above the skies and from the central roots
of the central tree flow brooks of milk and honey.
As I was among the Just, I was allowed to drink

* Ehmad Imhamad would not willingly repeat Satan's name.
He almost invariably said either " him " or " them."

A MONSTROUS ANGEL 79

the water of the Kowthar River, the principal
stream in Eden, which flows in a bed of precious
stones with the very banks all strewn with gems.
Its water — giving eternal life — is sweeter than
honey, whiter than milk, colder than snow,
softer than cream, and I carried it to my lips in
silver cups deposited there for the use of the Just.
As I was a Stranger, El Kadri, El Badawi, El
Dsuki and El Erfal were jealous that I should
receive the same privilege as many others of the
Just and always strove against me, knowing that I
was destined to go to Earth and become a Wely.
I again met these leaders of dervish orders in
Palestine and they fought against me and still
continue to do so.

" * Now recollect that when Allah created the
first Angel as was revealed to our prophet later,
he was so enormous that he had 70,000 heads and
each head had 70,000 faces, each face 70,000 mouths
and each mouth 70,000 tongues. Each tongue
could speak 70,000 dialects, and as God's praise
was being sung by every tongue a new spiritual
creature, an Angel, was formed. Thus were the
seven heavens peopled. But one of the clans had
Iblis, with his children, the Jan, as chief, and when
Allah finally created Adam and ordered Iblis
to worship this last creation, he refused and was
turned out of heaven with his host to Hve on the
islands and on the mountains of the earth, ^ or

* Koran, Sura ii. 32.

80 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

to go to and fro on the face of the earth, ^ where
they will have time to repent until Judgment Day,
whilst the most wicked were sent to Jehunum
(Hell) to fill that place. 2 " Aouzi Billah !— My
strength is in God ! " exclaimed the 'Ajami at this
point, and his voice thundered through the still-
ness of the night, for the dervishes had vanished
and only the sacred yellow Hght continued to
illuminate the abode clearer than the brightest
July day.

** * Adam was as tall as a palm tree and Eve
was very beautiful,' continued my teacher. * But
they ate of the forbidden fruit and were put down
on earth. ^ As the sons of Adam multiply and die
the righteous go back to Paradise, where, as a
recompense, Allah has commanded that the most
delicious fruits shall be presented to them on a
silver plate by an angel. None but good believers
and such as have observed the Koran and fasted
in Ramadan will receive the fruit. The Moslem
who opens it sees a splendid Houri come out.
These Houris are of four different colours, the
sacred colours of Islam : the first white, the
second green, the third yellow, and the fourth red.
Their bodies are composed of saffron, musk, amber
and incense ; and should they spit on the ground
the whole place will smell of musk. They have no
veils and show their black eyebrows ; they rest
under pearl-embroidered tents, containing seventy

1 Job i. 7. * Sura vii. 178. ' Sura vii. 23.

HIGH PLACES 81

couches of rubies, each with seventy mattresses,
on which seventy slaves attend them, with their
maids, each holding a new suit of light transparent
clothes for a change ; and they are transparent
unto the bones.

" * But in spite of all heavenly delights, those
children of Allah came to the earth and took wives
from the sons of Adam, ^ and though they had been
taught Allah's laws and reUgion, they soon followed
the teachings of the Jan and the Shairim,
who led them to evil. ^ They worshipped Baal
and Ashteroth, and put up idols on the high
mountains, upon the hills, and under every green
tree.^ Of course, my abode here in Beit-Mahsir
is like the abodes of all the Just men and Welies
spread all over Palestine ; we have simply taken
the places of the older gods. For, in spite of the
efforts of the lawgivers to break down the altars,
destroy the pillars and burn the groves, mankind
has always liked these retired places best and come
back to them. Now, when they continued,
Allah sent the Torah by Moses. To him be
prayers and peace ! But without success. The
Jews continued in the old ways and worshipped
the gods whom their forefathers had worshipped.
Once he changed them into monkeys for having
worked on a sabbath on the shores of the Red
Sea. But still they continued in their idolatrous

1 Genesis vii. 2. 2 Leviticus xvii. 7.

' Deuteronomy xii. 2.

82 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

ways. After showing patience for 500 years
He found them worshipping Shairim.^ So Allah
sent the Gospel (Ingile) by 'Esa, the son of Mary.
Prayer and peace be to him. But the Christians
again set up idols in their temples and worshipped
in the high places. Finally, the Prophet — to him
be prayers and peace ! — came and received the
Koran from the heavenly table. ^ But still the
people beheved that they (the Jan) could be wor-
shipped and still they continue to believe in their
power — Christians, Jews, and Moslems alike.

" ' The Jan were submitted to Solomon. Peace
be to him ! They were ordered by Allah to work
for him, and how could he have built the temple,
the pillars, the molten sea and his palaces without
their aid ? ^ When Solomon was overlooking
his Jan workers, now and then one would disobey,
and immediately he was sent to hell. They were
so frightened by this severity that when 'Ozrael
the Angel of Death, cut short Solomon's days,
as he was sitting leaning on his stick, he remained
for forty years in the position of an overseer
though dead, and had not a worm gnawed the
stick, causing the dead king to fall down, they
would never have known what had happened and
would have continued their work.*

" * When *Esa was on earth (to him be prayers

1 I. Chronicles, xi. 15. ^ Sura vii. 1.
8 Sura xxxiv. 12. I. Kings vii. 13-22.
* Sura xxxiv. 13.

JAN CONVERTS 83

and peace !) the Jan, in a group of seven, as they
always like to be, took possession of Mary Mag-
dalene and were driven out by him. ^ Of course,
some were converted to Judaism, others to Chris-
tianity, and when the Prophet (to whom be peace !)
was reading the Koran at daybreak under a palm-
tree, seven Jewish Jan listened and were so
impressed that they rose and were converted to
Islam 2 and continued to preach and make con-
verts among their sectarians, so that many
became Moslems. ^ And whenever Mohammed
prayed these Jan would respectfully arise and
Hsten in awe. They first lived in Arabia and
Nineveh, but by and by approached and followed
in the traces of mankind. They tried to enter
Paradise again, but were repelled by meteors,
which we still see.

" ' Happily there are innumerable good angels,
of whom 70,000 pray daily in the celestial Kaaba.
They have brought down to Mecca the model of
an earthly Kaaba, which was built by Jan by
divine order. Every man has his guardian angels :
two by day and two by night, who write down
every deed and carry it, alternately, to the throne
of Allah, awaiting Judgment Day. Every
beUever looks at his angels at the end of his
prayers ; he turns his head right and left, for then
they are on his shoulders.

" ' In his divine providence. He has allowed

1 Luke viii. 2. » Sura xlvi. 28. » Sura Ixxii. 13.

84 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

the different spirits to take different forms to
accomplish their various functions ; and as they
generally live in caves and all places underground
where the sons of Adam live, they very often share
not only human joy and sorrow but also partake
of human food and on solemn occasions use human
garments. For instance, should the imprudent,
when sowing or reaping, threshing or carrying
things home, pouring out or preparing bread,
laying it in the oven or putting it before the family,
drinking or lying down to sleep, rising or washing,
starting from home, dressing or undressing, omit
to say Bism Illah (In the name of Allah), the
ever-ready Jan have a good opportunity and
carry away their share to feast on it. And good
times they have, for there are many wicked
people among the three churches here in the land.
Certainly the Jan make no difference between
them. Every denomination has to use its own for-
mula— they cannot approach a Jew who has
Adonai in mind, nor a Christian who never forgets
^' the name of the cross." They seem to take
pleasure in teasing imprudent behevers, but will
not trouble with freethinkers.

" ' As on earth, there are men and women
among the Jan, and sometimes they intermarry
with humans. Does not the Torah say that they
came to marry ? ^ Female Jan sometimes fall
in love with humans, and are very jealous and

* Genesis vi. 2.

HAUNTED SITES 85

strike them^ if they smile at other women, so that
these men have the " earth's sickness." ^ When
living in human habitations they prefer the hearth
and the threshold ; therefore, humans never step
on the threshold on entering a room, and never
pour water on the hearth, which would be followed
by immediate punishment, as the Jan will not
suffer their dweUing -place to be soiled. They
have always Hved there. Some are behevers, ^
and as you do not know them you had better
never interfere with them. This was always
known. -Did not the old lawgiver Moses (to
him be peace !) forbid his people to revile the
Alhim, which are the same as the Jan. ^

" * Wherever Nature has been most wonderful
the Jan will certainly be found. Springs of
water, waterfalls, rivers, wells, deserts and curious
rocks, cliffs and seas, caverns and mountain tops
are all Maskoon (inhabited by Jan). They are
able to take whatever form they please. Thus,
in Tiberias, legions of Jan warm the hot springs
and are vigilant not to miss the imprudent intruder
if he forgets his duty. But, curious to say, there
no " Bismillah " is necessary. In olden days
on Mount Sinai it was forbidden to take the name
of Jehovah in vain, * but the command becoming
useless, as the people continued in their evil ways,
they all of them now, in synagogues, mosques or

1 Epilepsy. ^ Sura Ixxii. 14.

^ Exodus xxii. 28. * Exodus xx. 7.

86 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

churches, use and abuse it. But Allah is merciful
and of great kindness.

" * The precious metals, mines and treasures
are specially guarded by Guardian Spirits or
Rasads. All take forms : here as a ram butting,
there as a camel or a foal, again as an old Sheikh
or a young bride.

** ' Away from high roads and human habi-
tations, on sandy wastes and rocky regions there
is the Ghul, which, as its name indicates, is
insatiable and often devours women and children.
Most of them have names of animals and are
called dog, cat, wolf, fowl, lion, ram, camel, raven,
eagle, serpent and so forth ; therefore you must
never say to a child " I will give you to the wolf "
or "Raven, come and take it," as they obey to
the letter. The Ghul will certainly appear in the
form of a wolf or that of a raven and seize what,
thoughtlessly, he was bidden to take away.

** * As Paradise has hving beings, water, food
and trees, animals have not been altogether
excluded. But only such as have been of use to
Holy Men during their sojourn on earth have
received admission and can be seen there. First
of all there is the ram, which was sacrificed by
Abraham on Moriah, feeding in the meadows, as
well as the lamb of Ishmael, the cow which Moses
presented to the Israehtes, ^ the whale which
swallowed Jonah, the ant which Solomon set

* Numbers xix. 2.

ANIMALS IN PARADISE

87

forth as an example, ^ the hoopoe which was in the
temple at Jerusalem, the ass which carried Jesus
to Jerusalem on Palm-Sunday, the horse which
carried EUjah to heaven, and which was the
same as El Khadr (St. George) used to fight the
dragon, the dog which watched at the entrance
to the cave of the seven sleepers, the camel which
carried away Mohammed in the Hegira from
Mecca, and finally the bees which have healing
virtues in their honey.' ^

" The 'Ajami now paused a moment to see
what effect his words had had upon me. Being
spiritualised, I could read his thoughts, and knew
that he would now take me through the air and
under the ground, to shrines and sanctuaries, and
show me every spot in the length and breadth of
the land. On my forehead he set an amulet of
paper on which was written, * We gave Solomon
power over the tempest; it blew morning and
evening,' 3 and, taking me up on his shoulders,
left the Makam.

" In less time than it takes to tell you, we were
worshipping in the Beit el Makdas, the Holy of
Holies in Jerusalem, where we saw myriads of
spirits at their devotions. We flew to the Dead
Sea. The Jan were there, dancing and making
merry as in Lot's days. Suddenly I found myself
on Mount Carmel, where the wicked spirits of the

* Proverbs vi. 6.
' Sura xxxiv. 11.

2 Sura xvi. 70.

88 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

prophets of Baal were still delighting in the wor-
ship of that god. Then we came to the borders of
Egypt, south of Gaza ; — a country overflowing
with Jan, who become more numerous once
you are out of the Holy Land. It was there that I
noticed how many Jan followed the humans, just
as though they were their shadows, with their
feet stuck to their feet and their heads below the
earth. We saw them sorrowing at funerals,
rejoicing at weddings, and playing mischievous
tricks, especially among the young people. Pass-
ing a number of cemeteries, I saw old and young
men and women spirits roaming about on the
graves. 'Ajami put his finger to his mouth and
said in a whisper, * Speak not a word should you
see departed friends, for they are waiting here for
Judgment Day and would be only too glad to
take any human to their miserable company.'
We could see Christians, Jews and Moslems,
living in Ramleh, pass along the road and never
turn round to look, or say a word ; they knew
that on Thursday nights ghosts were more lively
there, and that a harsh word or mockery at the
souls would result in their being snatched away by
them. Ah ! yes, I have seen the green-mantled
Wehes on the green heights, the white-bearded,
hook-nosed prophets in Hebron and Safed, and the
cross-marked armoured knights, all vigilant guar-
dians of the places in which they were buried
centuries ago. And, side by side, were horned

CEMETERIES ^ 89

monsters, which I knew to be Baals, all appearing
and disappearing at will, and I wished in my heart
I had been at home with my wife and children.
But the 'Ajami thought I had not yet seen enough,
so he set me down on the walls of the pool of
Mamilla,^ where I could overlook the vast ceme-
teries belonging to departed Moslems. There
also was Zion with its Christian tombs of every
denomination, and, possessing the power to see
through the slopes to the Mount of Olives, my
eyes fell on slabs without number in Hebrew which
told me that they covered the Jews waiting around
the Sanctuary for the sound of the trumpet to
arise and be judged by Mohammed.

" Whenever I had a wish the 'Ajami knew it.
Having had no explanation about * that which
divides a woman from her husband,' he once more
carried me to the Moslem quarter, above the
Damascus Gate, and showed me ugly female
spirits accompanying pregnant women and newly
married damsels. ' That is the Kariny,' ^ said

^ The upper pool of Gihon.

2 Perhaps " Kariny," {'\r^^ ), is derived from the word
Kara, " to hate." The " Kari-Chang " is a Chinese law of
abstinence and devotion, containing twenty-seven articles.
During this kind of Lent season, strictly observed in Formosa,
no serious transactions are allowed, such as building, beginning
an enterprise, selling hides, sowing, manufacturing arms, marrying
or having intercourse with women, giving names to the new-born,
or going on a journey. The law had its origin in an ugly Formosan
who, mocked by his people, prayed to be removed to heaven,
where he became a divinity. Transgressors of the law were
severely punished. (Chinese myth.) The " Carines " M^ere women
of Caria who were hired to mourn the dead. (Greek legend.)

90 IHE IMMOVABLE EAST

the 'Ajami. * She puts hatred between man and
wife ; she makes women miscarry, or barren ;
she makes men impotent and turns their minds
towards other women, or women towards other
men.' I trembled, for I knew that this must be
the loathsome Kariny mentioned in the Koran
and already known to Solomon, who taught people
to wear amulets to hinder her detestable work.

" Seeing my fear, the 'Ajami hurried me through
space and then below the earth, where Jan were
gathered in bathing establishments, oil-mills and
cemeteries, — in short, in all those pubHc places
where Jan gather most freely. We went to
sanctuaries and saw the presiding saint assuming
any form he hked. In Dair esh Sheikh he was a
swarm of bees defending his abode ; at another
holy spot was a mounted horseman with a flowing
beard, a green mantle and a spear in his hand.
We saw the guardians (Rasads) taking the most
fantastic forms and humans of all denominations
respect them ; then thousands of years passed by
and the same religious forms in the very same
places reappeared. The worshippers spoke of
Baal, El, and Allah, — that was the only change,
and this change was so slight that they hardly
noticed the difference from one generation to
another. Then I knew that I was in the Immov-
able East and was glad to have been born to
live and die in my pure Arabic creed and language.

"Above and below the earth we travelled;

^

«

o

o
o

PHANTOMS 91

into churches, mosques, synagogues, and ruined
sanctuaries we entered. Then we flew back to
Zion. There, as in Mamilla, down in Kedron,
and on the slopes of the Mount of OHves, myriads
of phantoms and spirits of all forms moved about.
Jebusites and Amorites, Hebrews of pre-Baby-
lonian days, Machabees, Greeks, Romans, Moslems,
Franks, and Palestine Christians were all con-
gregated there, anxiously waiting, with eyes turned
towards the East, for the Day to come.

" Once more the 'Ajami took me up and set
me down, — this time on the minaret of Naby
Daoud. The tomb of David was the best obser-
vatory he could have chosen. From this holy
elevation, sacred to all human beings, he again
pointed to the East. * The night is far spent,' he
said. ' Light will come very soon ! Put away
your books and once more follow the ways of
Allah, unless you would partake of the fate of
those you will presently see.' He spoke in
such a solemn tone that I could not resist the
temptation to look round. But my guide had
disappeared.

" Suddenly sulphurous fumes and the odour of
bitumen filled the air, just as if the submarine
volcanoes of the Sea of Lot (the Dead Sea) were
in action. The earth trembled. Iblis with his
legions of Shaiateen (Demons), clothed in fire and
with fiery hooks in their hands, trooped from the
desert of Judah, dancing and whirling round and

92 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

round, — ^whistling and shrieking as they approached.
Small, hairy Shairim (satyrs) hopped around them,
pulling each other's ears, hair and tails, with
indecent demeanour. The troglodyte Ghules, per-
fectly globular, rolled up the hills on the long
spikes which surrounded their bodies, hedgehog
fashion. Their glowing red eyes, formed of bright
glow-worms, sent forth piercing looks, whilst
in their huge stomachs the half-decayed bodies of
devoured children could be seen rolling from one
side to the other. Towering Mareds, ^ with evil
looks, passed by me with rhythmic paces, now
blowing up their ethereal bodies until they were
miles in height and had become as thin as lofty
palms, now settling down and becoming like flat
wheels laid on their axes, producing the while
the queerest and most terrifying sounds. My
blood stood still. Yet the terrible procession
continued as noisy as a great cavalry charge.
Bulls rushed forth, blowing fire from their nostrils ;
camels, foaming at the mouth with rage, shot
forth their tongues until they were several yards in
length ; black horses with steel hoofs galloped
wildly over the flint pavement, sending sparks
hke meteors flying about the graves, and I knew
that these were disguised Rasads (guardians).
With hideous grimaces, monkey-like Krad and
Afarid climbed trees, cemetery walls and tombs,
peeped into ossuaries, dragged forth skulls and

* Sura xxxvii. 7.

RESURRECTION SCENES 93

limbs, and hurled them at each other with satyric
laughter. In the rear came the Jan, grimacing at
each other, yelHng and howling, now approaching
and fixing their eyes upon me, now withdrawing
with distorted dances. How I wished, as I
felt their hot breath upon my face, that I was
again in my native village ! I thought my last
moment had come, and that there was no more
time to repent. For behold ! on the walls of
Zion, with a shining sword in his hand, stood
'Ozrael, the Angel of Death, to cut short my days.
Alas ! I concluded, it is my fate to go down to
Hell-fire.

" But suddenly the scene changed : the mon-
sters and hideous apparitions left the Sacred
elevation and were replaced by new forms which
poured in by myriads from the north, south, east
and west. They came and gathered as it were for
Judgment on the platform of the holy rock. Their
odour was so old, so mouldy, that I knew at once
they had been lying in the earth many thousands
of years, long before our oldest writers on the
Canaanites and Themudians,' long before Abraham
and Ishmael. From Wad en Nar and Er Rahib
a procession of Baal- worshipping horned forms
came, bearing with them an odour of burning
flesh, the result of their Moloch abominations ;
from Kedron trooped milhons of beings each with a
triangle and four strange letters on his or her fore-
head ; and from all the battlefields, near and far,

8— (2131)

94 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

there marched past, in rank and file, soldiers
marked with crescents and crosses. Everywhere
gravestones were upheaving. The Greek ossuary
on Zion let out its confused cross-marked forms ;
the rock-tombs of Hinnom, the most heterocHtic
figures, for the strangers arriving at El Kuds had
been buried in the foreigners' graves ; the Well of
Souls (the Bir el-Arwah) opened wide its mouth
beneath the Sakhra and the souls of departed
believers stepped out with joyous countenance,
for they knew that Mohammed had promised to
save his own nation ; the tombs of the Prophets,
of the Judges, and of the Kings sent forth
their contingents in solemn procession to be
judged.

" This El Kuds is a veritable city of tombs
and dead, thought I, ready to give up the ghost
to 'Ozrael. If I have time to repent, shall I be
amongst the chosen ? Verily I am of the Ummy
(nation of the Prophet).

" At that moment a loud roaring all over the
universe was heard. It came from the south.
My flesh began to creep as I heard its voice say,
* The people have not believed our teachings.' ^
The monster which called out with this awful
voice was more fearful to behold than the apocalyp-
tical * red dragon with seven heads and ten horns
and seven crowns, whose tail drew the third part

* Inn in-Naas kaanu biayatina la youquanun — Sura xxvii.
84.

The American Colony Photographers, Jerusalem

Dome of the Ascension

THE ANGEL GABRIEL 95

of the stars, dragging them to earth.' ^ This
one came from Mecca and was covered all over
with long stiff hair and feathers. It possessed
two wings and was as brown as a bear. The half
of its body was hke a cat, its breast was that of a
lion, its tail that of an enormous fat-tailed ram,
and its head that of a bull. It had the eyes of a
pig, the ears of an elephant, the horns of a stag,
and an ostrich's neck. Its broad feet were hke a
camel's, and as it thundered over Jerusalem it
crushed the unbeHevers with its immense hoofs.
There was a general flight towards Siloam and the
desert in the east, towards Birket es-Sultan,^
and the valley of Hinnom, in the west, where
centuries ago the ancestors of the Hebrews offered
human and other sacrifices to Moloch. Standing
on my observatory, I was paralysed with fear.
Oh ! how I wished I had never bought those
forbidden books !

" As the wish passed through my mind, a faint
streak of light above the Mount of OUves announced
the arrival of the Bright Spirit. ' Aouzi bi
Rab il fallaq ' ^ I exclaimed. The Angel Gabriel,
with his yellow turban, filled the sky and his
sword brought forth the dawn. I passed my
hand through my beard, as is commanded when
daylight is announced, and with a loud voice I
cried, ' Eshhad ino la Illaha ill Allah wa

* Revelations xii. 3-4. * -phe lower pool of Gihon.

• " My protection is in the Lord of the Dawn." Sura cxiii. 1 .

96 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Muhammad Rasul Allah ! ' ^ scanning every
syllable and moaning in my anguish.

" And lo and behold ! I saw the fir-trees above
the ' Aj ami's abode moving slightly to and fro as,
in the first streaks of dayhght, the morning breeze
passed through the branches and proclaimed the
name of Allah. Whereupon I repeated my con-
fession of faith, proclaiming his glory at Dawn
of Day. 2 I realised, then, that I had never moved.
I was still sitting on the same spot above Beit-
Mahsir. Yet my spirit had seen the world and
what is in and above it all over the Holy Land.
And so I promised to leave magic and try, by
better ways and reading the Koran, to gain eternal
life."

The sun was fast dechning and about to plunge
in the Mediterranean when Ehmad Imhamad
came to the end of the story of his vision, and as
the last fierce rays struck the Mountains of Judah
they seemed to be ahve with the spirits he had
evoked. I rose and thanked him.

" Ehmad Imhamad," said I. '* You have
done a better day's work than you would have
done by necromancing. Come and let us have
another talk in Jaffa very soon."

1 " I witness that there is but one God, Allah, and that
Mohammed is his Apostle."

2 Sura XX. 130.

IN SHA- ALLAH! 97

'' In Sha- Allah !— If Allah wills ! " I heard him
say as I mounted my mare.

Then I turned my face homewards, to arrive
after darkness and put down these notes as faith-
fully as possible for the benefit of those occidental
readers who do not fully comprehend oriental
knowledge and belief.

V

THE GARDENS OF SOLOMON
I

" I made me great works ; I builded me houses ; I planted me
vineyards ; I made me gardens and parks, and I planted trees
in them of all kinds of fruit : I made me pools of water, to water
therefrom the forest where trees were reared."

ECCLESIASTES ii. 4-6.

Whenever the month of Rabee comes and the
subtle influence of the Spring begins to make
itself felt, I hear the call of the Orient. A thou-
sand times a day the sweet summons drags me
from mundane occupations and carries me back
to the scenes of my youth. It comes to me —
clear and irresistible — from a multitude of sources ;
it makes its welcome appeal through all the
avenues of sense. The sight or scent of a flower
on one of the slopes above my Riviera home, the
configuration of a hill or the geological nature of
the soil, the blue expanse of the Mediterranean
as I turn to rest on my peregrinations towards the
Maritime Alps, the taste of a fruit, or sometimes
the very breath of the air, are all allurements, to
set the stream of reminiscence flowing and make
me yearn for the East. How my thoughts fly
back, and how I feel inclined to cry, with Matthew
Arnold : —

" Quick, thy tablets, Memory ! "

In a moment — and on those occasions all physical

98

HAUNTS OF YOUTH 99

ties to earth seem to be severed — I am back, once
more, on Mount Hermon, tracing the three springs
of the Jordan and paying homage to the magni-
ficent snowy peak of Djebel-esh-Sheikh.^ Once
more, the valley of El Ghor and the Mountains of
Moab are spread out before me. Once more, I
am wandering along the Beda win-infested shores
of the Dead Sea, or swimming with my brother
to the island which has since disappeared beneath
its bitter waters. ^ Mountains and valleys, rivers
and seas, ruins and shrines, — all the old familiar
places of the land of my birth pass, one by one, like
moving pictures, during those spring-time dreams.
There is always, however, one vision that pre-
dominates when Rabee stirs the blood. It is that
of Uitas,^ a little village within a few miles of

* " The chief of mountains," as the Arabs call it.

* The disappearance of this little island, which was situated
about half a mile from the shore at the northern end, is a proof
of the interesting fact that the Dead Sea is increasing in size.
The maps of the Palestine Exploration Fund of twenty years ago
clearly indicated it, and it is also shown in a photograph taken
about 1882.

' Referring to Urtas, Edward Robinson writes {Biblical
Researches in Palestine, Vol. II, pp. 168) : " The place is still
inhabited, though the houses are in ruins, — ^the people dwelling
in caverns among the rocks of the steep declivity. Here are
manifest traces of a site of some antiquity, — ^the foundation of a
square tower, a low thick wall of large squared stones, rocks hewn
and scarped, and the like. If we are to look anywhere in this
quarter for Etam, which was decorated by Solomon with gardens
and streams of water, and fortified by Rehoboam along with
Bethlehem and Tekoa, and whence, too, according to the Rabbins,
water was carried by an aqueduct to Jerusalem, I know of no
spot so probable as this spot."

With all due deference to this authority, I am of the opinion
that Robinson was misled by the ruins of a fortress just above the

100 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Bethlehem, — a seemingly dry and barren spot,
but one, in reaHty, whose loose grey calcarious
gravel makes it pre-eminently suitable for the
production of fine fruit. And within its narrow
glen, enclosed to right and left by rugged hill-
slopes, and watered by an ever-running brook, the
most luscious apricots, peaches, pears, figs, and
other kinds of fruit were indeed grown, when, as a
youth, I lived with my brothers in the flat-roofed,
fortress-like house which stood on the eminence
above our plantations. Those fruit trees of Urtas,
gay with innumerable blossoms or weighed down
by fruit fit for the tables of kings and princes, —
the bright blue sky seen through the branches as I.
lay beneath them dreaming, — the singing of the
birds, — the murmur of the brook, — and the fragrant
odour of the plants on which our bees found so
plentiful a harvest^ made up a never-to-be-for-
gotten picture. When told that this was the site
of the Gardens of Solomon, who can wonder that I
accepted the statement as something more than
an old wife's tale ? Who can wonder that I read

Urtas spring, and that Etam was really situated about a mile
away, on the site of Khirbet el-Khokh, near 'Ain Etan and the
lowest of the Pools of Solomon. Had the author of Biblical
Researches in Palestine observed the remains and the spring of
Etan he would, I think, have modified his views in favour of my
theory, which, I may add, has been supported by more modern
authorities.

1 The thyme honey of Urtas is comparable to the renowned
honey from Mount Hymettus, in Greece, and was probably well
known in Solomon's time for its delicious aroma. See the Song of
Solomon iv. 11, " Thy lips, my spouse, drop as the honeycomb ;
honey and milk are under thy tongue."

IWor^m^pevd OF SoLomn MP ^mmn^.

"The nunrvbers tnAiczXe, J^ecf ihove. TAe/iiferrAneM^
2iCCorA\f\Q^ to Or/inAncc Sorveii. fE.P

obeerv^fTons.

LOVELY SURROUNDINGS 101

and re-read the Song of Solomon and found in it a
confirmation of that legend ? If the great king's
pleasure-grounds were anywhere, where else could
they be save in the little paradise of Urtas ?
What other place so well accorded with the words,
** Rise up, my love, my fair one, and come away.
For, lo, the winter is past, the rain is over and
gone ; the flowers appear on the earth ; the time
of the singing of birds is come, and the voice of
the turtle is heard in our land. The fig-tree
putteth forth her green figs, and the vines with the
tender grape give a good smell." ^ Many other
passages of the Song of Songs seemed to me to be
inspired by those lovely surroundings. " My
beloved is gone down into his garden to the beds
of spices, to feed in the gardens, and to gather
Hlies ... I went down into the garden of nuts
to see the fruits of the valley, and to see whether
the vine flourished and the pomegranates budded.
. . . Let us get up early to the vineyards, let
us see if the vine flourish, whether the grape
appear, and the pomegranates bud forth . . . " ^
And what of Solomon's Pools, situated near the
Saracenic castle of Kalat el-Burak, some half an
hour's journey from our ruined village ? Could
there be any doubt in my youthful mind, nourished
on Maundrell, Robinson, and other writers, that
these colossal waterworks and the hidden " sealed

1 The Song of Solomon ii. 10-13.

2 The Song of Solomon vi. 2, 11 ; vii. 12.

102 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

fountain " near by were the " pools of water "
referred to in Ecclesiastes and part of that gigantic
system of irrigation which transformed the whole
of the region into a veritable earthly paradise ?
. . . No ; it was beyond dispute that there before
me lay the gardens of the great and wise king.

But before the days of Solomon another of my
favourite Bible heroes had trod the sacred soil of
Urtas. The young shepherd David, leading his
flocks there from Bethlehem, must surely have
been inspired by the streams and rugged land-
scapes of my home ; and it pleased me to
fancy that, as he played upon his Neiye, ^ he com-
posed there his 23rd Psalm, since he speaks of
" the Lord his Shepherd, who made him he down in
green pastures and led him beside the still waters." ^
In no other place near Bethlehem do you find
either pastures or a constant supply of fresh
running water. Completing the picture, I could
see him descending the picturesque but dangerous
gorges of Adullam and, as he thus walked " through
the valley of the shadow of death," entrusting
himself and his sheep to the hands of God. He had
already encountered wild animals in those solitary
places and by courageously attacking them with
his *' comforting " staff ^ — the Naboot of the
Arabs, which every modem Palestine shepherd
still carries — had killed them.*

* See Song and Dance in the East, pp. 249-252.
' Psalms xxiii. 1-2. ' Psalms xxiii. 4.

* I. Samuel xvii. 34-35.

By permission of

The American Colony Photographers, Jerusalem

A Shepherd

'AIN RIMMON 103

When David became king he had no time to
occupy himself with the pleasures which his son
and successor was to enjoy. But on taking
Solomon on excursions to Urtas he must have
called his attention to its natural advantages, for
as soon as he succeeded to the throne the new
sovereign chose Etam as one of his cities for
chariots.^ Moreover, Josephus tells us that
Solomon was particularly fond of the place because
of its " beautiful gardens, its fine springs, and
the extreme fertility of its soil." ^ Etam, then,
possessed several springs — possibly three in all :
*Ain-'Etan at the Khirbet el-Khokh, above Urtas,
the " sealed fountain," *Ain Saleh, above Etam,
and the *Ain Urtas — then 'Ain Rimmon.^

1 I Kings X. 26.

2 Antiquities of the Jews, viii. 2, p. 340.

3 'Ain Rimmon has never been identified by explorers, and
Urtas has never been pointed out as corresponding to any known
Bible locality. My reason for identifying 'Ain Rimmon with
Urtas is based on the following passages : " Judah received Ain,
Remmon and Ether and Ashan " (Josh. xix. 7). Evidently the
transcriber knew nothing of the country, since he takes Ain and
Remmon to be two difEerent places. In the parallel reference
(I. Chron. iv. 32) a more careful scribe makes Ether into Etam,
and, besides giving 'Ain Rimmon and Ashan, adds Tochen. Now,
we find 'Ain Etam and 'Ain Urtas and Wad et-Tawaheen in the
actual topography. Later, Nehemiah speaks (Neh. xi. 29) of
the villages of Judah, and groups 'Ain Rimmon, Zoreah and
Yarmuth, though they are far apart. But he says the children
of Judah dwelt together from Beersheba to the valley of Hinnom
(Neh. xi. 30), an extensive country. Rimmon means Pome-
granates, and in his Song, Solomon speaks of his " Fardas
Rumaneem " (Song of Songs iv. 13), " the pomegranate gardens."
And last but not least the prophet Zechariah, in his vision,
foreseeing a time when the land round Jerusalem should be
made flat for the judgment of the nations says : " All the land
shall be turned as a plain from Geba to Rimmon, south of

104 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

But you must imagine Etam, in Solomon's
days, as something more than a place of mere
rustic beauty. From the many nations which
surrounded his kingdom, the king selected wives
and for every princess of the blood he built a
palace.* These houses he placed here and there,
so as not to profane Jehovah's temple at Jeru-
salem. 2 His Moabite wife dwelt on the Mount of
Olives ; his Egyptian spouse was at Gezer ; ^
whilst his Edomite princess, on account of the
nearness of her native country, must have been at
Etam, to which Solomon, with a brilliant retinue,
rode out every morning. Josephus gives a very
picturesque description of these rides to Etam.
" Thus King Solomon," he writes, " was able
to add four hundred chariots to the thousand
chariots and twenty thousand horses which he
ordinarily kept. And the horses which they sent
him were not only particularly fine — they sur-
passed all others in swiftness. Those who rode
them made their beauty still more apparent ;
for they were young men of very tall stature,
clothed in Tyrian purple, armed with quivers, and
with long hair covered with gold dust, which, when
the rays of the sun struck them, made their heads

Jerusalem " (Zech. xiv. 8-10). Now, Geba is as far north from
Jerusalem as Urtas (Rimmon) is south of that place, making a
very symmetrical plan which fits in suitably with the vision.
See my communication to the Quarterly Statement of the P.E.F.,
October, 1912, pp. 209-211.

1 I Kings, xi. 8.

2 II. Chronicles viii. 11. » I. Kings ix. 16-17.

WATER CONDUITS 105

ablaze with light. This magnificent retinue
accompanied the king every morning when,
according to custom, he left the town, seated in a
superb chariot and clothed in white, to go to a
country house near Jerusalem called Etam . . ." '

On the death of Solomon, the Israelites revolted,
and the Edomites in the south made so many
incursions that his son Rehoboam was obliged
to fortify the frontier towns, including Bethlehem,
Etam, and Tekoa, ^and place garrisons there. The
gardens of Etam remained royal property as long
as the kingdom of Judah lasted.

During the time of anarchy which followed the
deportation of the princes and notables, and until
Herod the Great came to the throne, the nation
was occupied in defending itself, sometimes against
the governors, sometimes against foreigners in
general. Herod himself, a foreigner and an
Edomite, had a predilection for the favoured
district of Urtas and, after his victory over the
Jews, in the neighbourhood of the Frank Moun-
tain,^ built a palace near by. As there was
nothing but rainwater to be obtained near his
castle, and as rain is very rare in this part of the
Desert of Judah, he had the water from the
important spring of El Arroub brought by means

1 Antiquities of the Jews, viii. 2, p. 340.

2 II. Chronicles xi. 6.

3 So called since 1453, when Felix Fabri relates that the Franks,
after the battle of Hattin, withdrew there and found suf&cient
water to grow corn and vegetables, thanks to which they withstood
a siege of at least a year.

106 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

of a conduit and an extensive system of reservoirs
to Solomon's Pools. This conduit was so big
that a horse could easily pass through it. It
became smaller as it advanced, but still was
sufficiently large to enable workmen to stand
upright in it when undertaking repairs. It passed
by way of the Wady el-Biar, or Valley of the Wells,
and skirted the flank of the mountain of Batn-el-
Ekra* and Mough-arid-Khahd, north of Urtas,
where the surplus water flowed into a large number
of reservoirs which stretched as far as the Urtas
spring. The solidly cemented remains of a portion
of these gigantic works are still to be seen to-day
on our family property at Urtas. After the Valley
of Urtas, properly so called, comes the Valley of
the MiUs, Wad et-Tawaheen, and there again are
other remains which clearly formed part of
Herod's extensive system of irrigation, the surplus
water from which was probably used for the
turning of numerous mills.

After Herod's death his successors were unable,
for a multitude of reasons, principally lack of
resources and incessant troubles with their enemies
inside the kingdom and the Romans coming from
without, to occupy themselves with Etam, so that
the paradise of Urtas quickly fell into ruins. The
remains of a marble palace, discovered there about
1865 by Mr. Meshullam, a colonist who followed
in my father's footsteps, and known to the Arabs
as El Hammam — the Bath — led some to suppose

HORTUS CONCLUSUS 107

that the Emmaus of the Gospel ^ was situated at
Urtas. But baths, or Emmaus, abound in Pales-
tine. There are two to the north-west of
Jerusalem, where the Emmaus celebrated for the
appearance of Jesus to two of his disciples after
his death has already been placed. Another is
at the warm baths of Tiberias ; whilst a fourth
and a fifth are at Calirrhoe and Arnon, to the
east of the Dead Sea, where Herod, a few days
before his death, sought relief from his sufferings.

II

Until the arrival of Tancred and the hundred
knights who came to the rescue of the Church of
the Nativity at Bethlehem — that is, before the
taking of Jerusalem — the gardens of Urtas
remained buried in oblivion. It was then that
the name " Hortus Conclusus " was given to the
place by the monks of Bethlehem, — a name which
has been preserved in their archives until now.^

We possess no exact information regarding the
history of Urtas during the Christian occupation
from 1099 to 1187, but the remains of Deir el
Banat, or the Nuns' Convent, a few kilometres
above the village, near the Wady el Biar, and the

1 St. Luke xxiv. 13.

2 It is not for me to attempt to decide whether the name
Urtas is a corruption of Hortus, or vice versd. But I may remind
my readers how notoriously careless the Crusaders were in the
translation and pronunciation of local names. • The question is
a dif&cult one to settle, and is further complicated by the fact
that there is another tjrtas near Antioch which has certainly
nothing to do with Hortus, a garden.

108 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

plan of which is fairly clearly indicated, show that
the building was placed under the protection of
St. Jean d'Acre or the Templars. A stone,
marked with a cross, which I saw there about
1870, leaves no doubt in my mind on that point.

The kings of Jerusalem probably possessed the
privilege of including Wady Urtas in their pos-
sessions, but the cultivation of its fertile soil,
recommenced in 1099, must have been suddenly
stopped when, after the Battle of Hattin, in 1 187,
the last Christian king of Jerusalem, Guy of
Lusignan, fell into the power of Saladin. Urtas
was captured by the Saracens on September 5th,
1187. In Hugues Platon's words, " Le jor
qu'Escalone fu perdue, li rendi Ton tous les
Chastiaus qui environ etoient ." During the Sultan's
pourparlers for the possession of Jerusalem and
the siege, which lasted but a fortnight, all the
churches and convents in the neighbourhood were
destroyed by the invaders. Deir el Banat and the
Church of the Garden fell at the end of September.
For more than a century had the sound of bells ^
been heard in the district, and the destruction
was so complete that almost every trace of the
church, which I beUeve was situated near the
centre of the present village, disappeared.

During that period in the history of Palestine

^ More than seven centuries elapsed before Christian bells
were once more sounded. In 1894 the Convent of St. Mary of
the Garden was built at Urtas.

A TINY MOSQUE OF OMAR 109

which is known as " the great blank "-^that is
from the fall of Jerusalem to the re-introduc-
tion of Christian missions into the Holy Land
— the story of Urtas is very incomplete. A few
interesting fragments have, however, come down
to us.

Between 1573 and 1575 the valley was visited
by a distinguished botanist, Dr. Leonardus
Rauwolffus, who, enumerating the most remark-
able plants, " in horto Salomonis prope Bethlee-
mam," includes the pomegranate, the orange and
the fig. Oranges are no longer grown there, or
anywhere in Judah, except at the village of
Tanour, near Beit- ^E tab.

Because of the conduit which led the water
from Solomon's Pools and the springs 'Ain Etan
and 'Ain Saleh to the Mosque of Jerusalem, the
inhabitants of the village were exempted from
taxes during the whole of the domination of the
Arab sultans. The Mosque of Urtas was itself
dedicated to the same Khalif Omar Ibn Khattab
as the one in the Holy City.

The chiefs of the village, exonerated from all
burdens, possessed not only a certain independence
but even enjoyed the right of distributing justice
to neighbouring villages and tribes, — a right which
they abused to such an extent that at last a
revolution was provoked, and they were over-
thrown. Nevertheless, under their authority
Urtas again prospered. These kinglets forced a

»— (2131)

110 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

good deal of the commerce of the district to pass
their way ; they possessed a palace of justice, a
large prison and a gibbet for recalcitrant ones.
The Mosque was situated in the centre of the
village ; the palace of justice was to the east.
Forty years ago a portion of the donjon, with the
large iron rings to which prisoners were attached
fixed in the walls, could still be seen.

Conflict with the people of Seir, near Hebron,
resulted, at the close of the Middle Ages, in the
almost total destruction of the inhabitants of
Urtas. Those who escaped the massacre took
refuge with distant relatives or in the fortress
near Solomon's Pools. The stronghold was ceded
to them on condition that they saw to the proper
working of the water supply and the protection
of the road from Jerusalem to Hebron, — duties
which they carried out in a far from satisfactory
manner. Frequently they were guilty of pillaging
the caravans of traders and isolated pilgrims
who passed their way. From time to time, how-
ever, punishment came. The Ta^amre Bedawin
descended upon their hives and fruit gardens, so
that at last they were obhged to transport the
former to their hill-top fortress and definitely
abandon the latter.

During the long civil wars of the red and white
factions of the Kesi and Yamani, which lasted
throughout the eighteenth and a part of the
nineteenth centuries, the inhabitants of Urtas

COLONIZING URTAS 111

carried contraband arms and ammunition first
to the one and then to the other party. At the
beginning of the nineteenth century and until the
reign of Abdul Medjid they paid their taxes
with great irregularity and were continually in
revolt. But in 1830, on the invasion of Palestine
by Ibrahim Pasha, they sided with Sultan
Mahmood II and vahantly defended the territory.

Ill

The modern history of the Gardens of Solo-
mon I date from 1837 when Robinson made his
researches in Palestine. The road then passed
in the middle of the valley " through gardens and
watered fields," but doubtless all the water of the
springs of Urtas was not utilised, for the author of
Biblical Researches in Palestine continues to say,
*' The little stream was soon absorbed in the thirsty
gravelly soil of the valley, and the gardens ceased."

In 1848 my father came to Urtas, bought land
there and built a small house. But the inhabitants
came to him only during the day to work in our
plantations, and, for fear of the Ta'amres, retired
as soon as night came to their fortress. Later,
a second colonist, Mr. Meshullam, joined him,
gave a further impetus to agriculture, and suc-
ceeded, through sheer force of character, in intro-
ducing relative security into the district. Other
colonists, Americans and Germans, followed the
example of these two pioneers, but remained only a
short time. From 1859 to 1863 the son of my

112 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

father's associate, Mr. Peter Meshullam, lived at
Urtas and to a certain extent ruled over the
locality. He attempted to introduce a special
system of forestry, obliging owners to respect
their forests and protecting those which belonged
to the community. Furthermore, he himself
dealt out justice to delinquents. Tyrannical,
but at the same time exceedingly hospitable by
nature, he often took what he needed for his guests
from the first shepherd he saw. He was a pro-
tector of widows and orphans, and any woman who
was oppressed by her husband or relatives could
always count on finding a safe home in one or
other of the numerous country houses which he
possessed at Bakoosh and Faghur in the Wady el
Biar. Considering the jealous and vengeful nature
of the Arabs, it is not surprising that Peter
Meshullam at last became their victim, although
his death is still enveloped in mystery. Whilst
riding to Tekoa, south of Urtas, he fell at 'Ain
Hamdeh, near the Frank Mountain, from his
horse and broke a leg. The friends who were
accompanying him returned to Urtas for help,
leaving him in charge of a servant ; but on their
return they found that he was dead and that the
servant had disappeared.^

^ For an interesting account of the early life of Peter Meshullam
and his extraordinary authority over the Bedawin, whilst yet
only a boy of sixteen, see Van der Velde's Narrative of a Journey
through Syria and Palestine in 1851 and 1852, vol. ii, chap. 1
(William Blackwood and Sons, 1854).

URTAS CHURCH 113

In 1858 H.R.H. Prince Alfred, a son of Queen
Victoria, visited Urtas and purchased a few acres
of land to the south of Urtas on the side of a
mountain called Abu Zeid. Arranged in terraces,
the land was planted with vines and almond-
treies ; and these remained under the superin-
tendence of Mr. MeshuUam. For many years, in
the summer, Mr. Finn, the British Consul in
Jerusalem, used to come to Urtas with his family
to spend a few days there. It was thanks to his
aid, both financially and morally, that at least
one kilometre of gardens were added to those
already existing, and that the reputation of Urtas
for fine fruit and vegetables became known far
and wide.

Europeans have done much to make the modem
reputation of the Gardens of Solomon. They have
greatly ameliorated the fruit trees ; and as to vege-
tables, the Venetians as early as the seventeenth
century — as words of Italian origin clearly show —
introduced a large number which were totally
unknown to the Arabs, such as tomatoes (in
Arabic Banadora, from pommi d'ore), egg-apples
(Betinjan, from melongena), peas (Bizelle, from
picella), and haricot beans (Fasulia, from faciolla).
As regards fruit, Urtas is specially famous for
its pears, peaches and figs, which, during July,
August and September, attract thousands of
people to its picturesque orchards.

In 1850, my father, called to other duties in

114 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Jerusalem, and having disposed of his first house
at the bottom of the valley to Mr. Meshullam,
built a new one in the very centre of the village
and on the perpendicular rock above the stream.
The site he chose was that of the ancient church of
the Crusaders. As the Arab builders whom he
employed set about their work, they pulled down a
certain wall painted with frescoes, representing
the figures of saints. Little did my brother and I,
as we looked on with boyish amusement, guess
the inestimable archaeological value of those
twelfth century remains.

Little Urtas, which occupies the attention of
some two hundred Moslem inhabitants, apart
from the handful of Europeans who still make it
their home and the inmates of the convent, built
in 1894, has been connected with Jerusalem by a
carriage road since 1901. Although the new
route is much longer than the old one along which
the camels used to stumble in the days of my
youth, it is now possible to make an afternoon
excursion to the Gardens and Pools of Solomon,
where the contemplative visitor cannot fail to be
rewarded by a host of vivid impressions and
fruitful reflections.

VI

MURDER AND MARRIAGE IN URTAS

" He that smiteth a man, so that he die, shall surely be put
to death." — Exodus xxi. 12.

There is hardly a village in Palestine, no matter
how tiny, but has " blood between families."
Even when killed by accident, a man must be
revenged. Bible, Koran and modem population
entirely agree on this point. As a rule, the man-
slayer must pay for the crime with his own blood,
but should he be found unworthy, another man
of his kindred may be taken in his place. An
uncle or cousin — even a distant cousin — is still
responsible, though the murderer himself is pre-
ferable. With Oriental patience a Bedawi once
waited forty years for his Ghareem, but seeing he
could not find the identical murderer he killed a
cousin. A quarter of an hour later he met the
Ghareem himself. How he regretted that he had
acted too hastily !

Urtas was no exception to this rule. When my
father came to the village and bought land there
in 1848 the four Hamulies, or groups of families,
Shahini and Mashani, Rib'i and Ehseini, were in
conflict, but lived together in the castle above
Solomon's Pools, coming down to Urtas only during
the day to look after their gardens, and retiring

115

116 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

at sunset for fear of the neighbouring Ta'amr6
Bedawin. In the course of a few years these four
families, regaining confidence owing to my father's
example and the more settled state of the country,
returned to their ruined sites. But no sooner had
they once more settled down and the Ta'amre
power had been destroyed by the Turkish officials
at Jerusalem — no sooner had a kind of authority
been set up by the Pashas than they began to
think about their own bloody feuds again. From
generation to generation retaliation — that Thar
which requires that no murdered man shall
remain unrevenged — had been practised.

Now, at the time our story opens, a part of the
Shahini family, tired of this eternal vendetta, had
left the village, looking for aid and refuge at some
Tanib in the south. ^ Returning home from
Bethlehem one day, they met, near the ruins of
Etam, Ibrahim et-Taiesh of the allied Mashani
and mistook him for a member of the adverse
Rib'i family. Suddenly, Khaleel Abu-1-Ghreir
struck Ibrahim on the back with an axe and
almost severed his vertebral column. " Ah !
Son of a dog," said he. " We have met you at
last ! " Falling to the ground, Ibrahim, then a
vigorous youth of about twenty, cried out to the
men that they were mistaken and prayed them
not to soil their hands with innocent blood, ^

* Cf. Deuteronomy xix. 5.

* Exodus xxiii. 7.

A GHASTLY SCENE 117

and thus give rise to a new Thar. But Abdallah
'Odey, advancing in his turn, almost scalped him
with his sword, crying : *' Are we children, son
of a whore ? May God have no mercy on thy
parents, nor on thy martyrs— AUah la yerTiam
waldache walla shahdache ! " By this time
Hassan Ehmad had drawn his sword and, putting
his knee on Ibrahim's breast, endeavoured to cut
the wounded man's throat. In his anguish,
Ibrahim protected his neck with his hands and by
so doing only received severe wounds on his
knuckles. But it would have gone ill with him
had not a shepherd boy, just at that critical
moment, been heard playing on his Neiye whilst
climbing the rocks with his goats. The three
murderers suddenly interrupted their ghastly
work and fled. Ibrahim endeavoured to rise,
held up the scalp which had fallen over his face,
and with a loud voice cursed his retreating assail-
ants, ^ at the same time calling for help. The
shepherd boy, hearing the curses and calls, in turn
called out in every direction : " Jei ya Naas jei
—This way, oh ! people ! " The call was repeated
from mountain to mountain, until friend and foe
hurried towards the place where Ibrahim was
found lying in his blood.

As the murderers were known and the mistake
was acknowledged, negotiations were carried on
between the parties and a blood gratification was

* Judges ii. 7.

118 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

agreed upon. A reconciliation feast was held,
garments were exchanged and it was declared
openly that there should be no thought of any
further revenge.

But peace never reigned for long in Urtas. Some
months later, one of the Ehseinis, Hassan by
name, was captured by the Pasha's tax-gathering
troops when they were passing near the pools of
Solomon ; he had been denounced by a Mashani
as having revolted against the authorities. As
justice was very summary in those days, he was
beheaded there and then on the road and his body
abandoned. Brought to Urtas, the dead man
was buried and immediately a fresh cause for Thar
arose. But patiently the Ehseinis waited for an
opportunity to take their revenge.

Years passed, during which the Rib 4 and
Mashani struggled for supremacy. Ibrahim
et-Taiesh was now head of the latter and Salem
er Ro^hmane chief of the former. The presents
of Salem to the authorities in Jerusalem, with
whom he was anxious to remain in favour, were
more numerous and more choice than those of
Ibrahim, and consequently he was held in greater
consideration at the Seraiya of the Governor.
When it was rumoured that Ibrahim had come
into the possession of wealth, ^ he endeavoured to
make capital out of it, but as there was no proof
he accused the Mashani of theft, robbery, murder

1 See Ibrahim's Wealth, pp. 127-138.

FELLAH SHEIKH 119

and ail kinds of crime, real or imaginary. As he
had been previously elected responsible Mukhtar,
this new position of mayor gave him more power,
which Sheikh Salem used and abused until he
had alienated the whole village with the exception
of two or three persons.

A perfect type of the old Fellah chief was Sheikh
Salem, with his enormous turban, spotless white
Thob, red silken Kaftan, red pointed shoes and
sheepskin jacket. As a rule, he wore a pair of
pistols in his girdle ; and being of a combative
nature, was feared by both great and small.
He had two wives, both foreigners. Helwy, his
first helpmate, was from ^Ajur and was a long
time before she had living children. He therefore
married a dark Bedawiye of the Ta^amre, by whom
he had three boys and a girl. The fair Helwy, like
Rachel, was beloved and was ever jealous of her
Durra, the dark co-wife. ^Alia the Bedawiye
retained her dark Bedawi clothes, whilst Helwy
imitated the more gaudy Bethlehemite women in
her toilet. The whole family lived in one small
room and sometimes additional guests would help
to fill it, especially during winter nights or rainy
days, when members of the clan would squat
round the fire, smoking, drinking coffee and
planning the subjugation of the Mashanis.

To possess Bawardi^ and thus strengthen the
party is a greater ambition with a Fellah than to

^ Armed men.

120 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

have wealth. So Salem looked out for a girl in
the adverse camp suitable for his nephew
'Ethmane, who had been unfortunate in his first
marriage. His wife was barren. Besides, through
ill-treating her, she had left him and gone to her
father's house. More than one episode in her life
reminds us of Michal, Saul's daughter, ^ especially
her return again when 'Ethmane was more
powerful. 2 After much searching, Salem found
the girl he was looking for in the Shahini family.
This family consisted of four men with their
wives and numerous children and for the time
being was on good terms with Salem and with
Ibrahim. Mustapha Shahine, the head, agreed with
Salem that the girl, Sarah, fifteen years old and
the daughter of Khaleel Ibrahim, should be
betrothed to ^Ethmane as soon as the sum of
Os. 40^ was paid, in addition to the usual garments
and marriage offerings. However, after lengthy
negotiations, this arrangement was abandoned in
favour of a more family one. Khaleel, besides
having a son who was Khateeb of the village, had
another, Sliman, who was also of an age to marry.
So, as ^Ethmane had an unmarried sister, Sa*ada,
the parties agreed that the bridegrooms should
exchange sisters, each one giving presents to the
other party as wedding garments. *

1 I. Samuel xviii. 27 ; xix. 12-17. 2 n. Samuel iii. 13-16.

' The Ottoman pound sterling is equivalent to 23 francs.
« II. Kings V. 22.

BRIDAL REJOICINGS 121

The marriages were fixed for the seventh day
of the month of Rabee — the spring. The first
crescent of the moon was high in the sky when,
by the women's Zagharit^ the festivities were
announced. From the flat roofs of 'Ethmane's
and SHman's houses the ululations echoed from
one side of the mountain to the other over the deep
depression which divided the village in two. Before
every Zaghroot ^ the women or girls announced the
forthcoming feasts and generosity of the bride-
grooms, the young men firing all the while and the
elderly men, in low voices, accompanying the
SaTijy, that all-in-a-row dance in which ten or
more men join. At last, after seven evenings of
dancing, singing, coffee-drinking, smoking and
firing, the wedding day arrived.

Both brides, in their best clothes, ostrich feather
crowns, and all their furniture, were set on camels
and led to their prospective homes. As the
village belonged to the Kase faction, the two
women wore thick red impermeable veils over their
faces, the first and last time, according to Fellah
custom, they would be veiled. Sarah's camel was
led by her cousin Jouseph, who, had he exercised
his right, could have claimed her as his wife ;
Sa'ada's camel was in charge of her cousin Moosa
Salem, who could likewise have asked for her hand
and obtained it. Following the camels were the
brides' kin, singing and firing as they marched

1 Ululations. 2 Singular of " Zagharit."

122 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

along. When the two processions met, the young
men had a mock fight, and Jouseph and Moosa
received a Majidi each, a supposed payment for
releasing the brides and allowing the " foreigners "
to take them. Meanwhile, to avoid the effects
of the Evil Eye, the heads of the families, Salem
and Mustapha, each representing their respective
bride and bridegroom, stepped aside and, with
Sheikh 'Awad, the Khateeb, to give his blessing,
secretly tied the marriage knots. Quietly the
processions entered their new homes, where the
camels were made to kneel down and the brides
alighted, still covered with their veils. ^ The
evening was spent in preparing the supper for the
guests ; there was more singing, ululating and
shooting ; and the young couples were then
considered to be married.

During the preparations for these festivities
and for some months afterwards, everything
seemed forgotten between the rival factions of
Urtas, for Salem's party was now strengthened
by many Bawardi. But a year was hardly over
than new troubles once more broke out. Ibrahim
continued to feign poverty, in order to escape the
notice of the friend of Salem, Jouseph Agha, the
captain of gendarmes. One day, however, he was
arrested, bound together with his wife and dragged
to prison . Whether J ouseph Agha found him inno-
cent or whether convincing gold helped Ibrahim

* Genesis xxiv. 64-65,

I

THE FATAL BLOW 123

out is not known. Anyway, he was released
and at once began to plan his revenge on Salem.
Thoroughly on his guard, Salem alleged that
cattle-lifting and burglary were being carried on
to his detriment, and in his endeavour to convince
the authorities that almost all the village had
united against him, he became so disliked that,
during his absence in Jerusalem, a plot was formed
and the " tyrant " was condemned to death.
As there were several roads leading to Urtas,
armed men were placed in ambush everywhere.
Fellahin are almost as keen as Indians, and Salem
suspected the trap. Therefore, on his way home,
he suddenly turned off the road, near Rachel's
tomb, and set off in the direction of Bethlehem
to join friends there and escape. But, unhappily
for him, two of the plotters. Jabber and Sliman,
followed from afar, and, seeing him take another
way, hurried into the olive-groves, where they
soon overtook him as he rode slowly along on his
ass. With a well-directed blow from Jabber's
Naboot, Salem was knocked from his animal,
whilst Sliman, his nephew, drew his Shibriye and
cut his throat. ^ An old Bethlehemite, an invol-
untary witness of the murder, became dumb with
terror and was unable to report what he had seen
until the next day, by which time the murderers
had escaped through the groves and reached home.
This happened in the afternoon, so the body was

1 Cf. II. Samuel iii. 30.

124 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

soon discovered and the news, like wildfire, spread
to Urtas. Less than an hour afterwards the dead
man's people came and carried him home. Friend
and foe joined in the procession : some to mourn,
others secretly to rejoice. As the Khateeb of
Urtas was suspected of being one of the plotters,
the Khateeb of El Khudr was called in to officiate
at the funeral service. The body was thoroughly
washed, sewed up in a fresh shroud and carried
to the tomb that same evening. A dead body
must never remain unburied lest the land be
defiled,^ and it be unprepared to answer the
questions put by Naker and Nker, the examining
angels in the grave, who awaken the dead man,
inform him that he is dead, and then ask him about
his good and bad deeds. It is for this reason that
the Moslem graves have empty spaces and that
slabs are put over the bodies to avoid the earth
touching them.

The Khaled family provided for the funeral
supper given to as many as chose to be present
and show their sympathy for the bereaved. Before
this supper every man present embraced the other
as a token of reconciliation in the presence of death,
and the bereft were greeted with the words :
" Salamet Rasak — Your head is safe."

Since the introduction of Turkish laws into
Palestine cases of murder such as this were
ordered to be judged at the Tribunal at Jerusalem.

1 Deuteronomy xxi. 23.

A TERRIBLE PUNISHMENT 125

The family council, however, thought that they
ought to act by themselves and take their own
vengeance so that " the shame be put away."
Nevertheless, friends and a few remaining allies
were inclined to put the matter in the hands of
the authorities. The outcome was that Jabber
and Sliman were kept in prison for several years,
and whilst they bribed the officials to obtain better
treatment 'Ethmane and his friends used bribes
to keep them where they were. When the finances
of everyone were exhausted, when their lands had
been mortgaged and no more money was to be
procured, both prisoners were dismissed " for
want of further proof."

Sliman, the throat-cutter, escaped further judg-
ment. But what happened to him eventually ?
Spots came out on his body, then ulcers ; a toe
or a finger became bent and withered ; and
finally he was declared a leper. His wife went
home to her brother and obtained a divorce.
His own people avoided him. Was this a punish-
ment from Allah, as some said ; or was his malady
hereditary, as more enlightened folk concluded ?
His father and grandfather had been physically
sound, with the exception of a crooked limb or so,
and the itch — the legacy from another generation.
However, Sliman had to join the band of miserable
lepers at the Jaffa Gate, to live on alms given by
merciful passers-by, until, one by one, his fingers
and nose, ears and toes disappeared. Every

10 — (2131)

126 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

evening he retired to the common lazar-house
above Job's Well, near Siloam. He had refused
to join either Jesus Hilf, the German hospital for
lepers, or the Leproserie de St. Lazare, both so
well kept by devout Protestant and CathoUc
Sisters. There he feared to be obliged to become
a Christian and pray after Christian manners.
So, when almost every limb was infested, when his
voice had become extinct, and you could no longer
tell whether his hideous face was smiHng or crying,
he continued to decay away and was buried far
from his home.

VII

IBRAHIM'S WEALTH

I

The Plain of Rephaim, south of Jerusalem, was
full of waving corn. In spite of the prevailing
heat, the harvest could hardly be expected before
July. As usual, not a drop of rain had fallen
since the end of April, and none could be expected
before the end of October.

Immense flint-stone rocks cover all the mountain
and the declivity south-east of Rephaim. In the
twilight these stones, scattered in all positions,
could easily be mistaken for man or beast, and
many a legend has been woven around their
fantastic forms, legends which could not fail to
pass through the mind of a young man who, in
the early light of morning, was quietly lying in a
sheltered and dominating position above the road.

Owing to the youth's special point of vantage,
the dryness of the weather, and other natural
causes, noises from almost every direction could
easily be detected by him from afar. Moreover,
in the rapidly increasing light, he could see, a
mile or two away, the silhouette of Mar EHas,
the Greek convent of Elijah, so caUed from the
print in the rock left by the holy body of the

127

128 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Prophet when he fled from Ahab and lay down to
rest on his way to the wilderness.

Jabber es-Saleh, the young man in question,
was from the village of Beth-Safafa, at the en-
trance to the Valley of the Roses, just opposite
the place where he was sitting. From his observa-
tory he could survey the road and distinctly hear
the voices of passers-by even when at a great
distance. A company of donkey-drivers stopping
near the SabeeP of Mar EUas could be heard by
him with remarkable distinctness, and amongst
the voices he felt sure that he could distinguish
the harsh vocables of his cousin Ibrahim. He was
right. Ibrahim-et-Taiesh, of the village of Urtas,
was indeed on his way to Jerusalem, driving his
donkey before him, loaded with two long baskets
of tomatoes for the market.

Dawn had come. The first streaks of light in
the distance, behind the mountains of Moab, east
of Jordan, announced the rising sun. As the
glorious sight appeared to his eyes, Ibrahim, as
every Moslem beUever does when " God sends the
morning," stroked his beard and, in a loud and
rhythmical voice, exclaimed : ** Eshhadu inno la
lUaha ill-Allah, wa Muhammad Rasoul Allah !—
I witness that God is the only God and that

* This Sabeel, or well, was set up by the authorities of the
Greek Convent to supply water to travellers, who, flocking there,
often cause a great uproar. These roadside wells are considered
such a great blessing in this dry land that the Turkish Government
exempts those who set them up from the usual duties oh the land
and properties adjoining.

PRAYERS AT DAWN 129

Mohammed is His Prophet ! " Then, in lower
tones, he murmured the Fatiha, or opening chapter
of the Koran, interrupting his prayers now and
then by pushing and cursing the donkey, " He !
He ! Yallah ! " — to encourage him to hasten
forward and reach the gates of the Holy City
before sunrise.

When Jabber had come to the conclusion that
his keen ears had not deceived him, he descended
towards the main road and, enveloped in his grey
and white Abba, sat down on a rock to await
Ibrahim's arrival. As soon as his cousin was near
enough, he rose and advanced to greet him with
an " Allah ye sabhak bil kher ya Abu Muham-
mad." ^ Ibrahim at once recognised the voice of
his cousin Jabber es Sal eh, and answered his
greeting. " Ja saba^h el kher, ya Abu Abed !
—Oh ! morning with plenty — Oh ! Father of
Abed," he said. And both men walked silently
for a few moments in the direction of the town.

The arid mountains around them were tinged
a roseate colour and by degrees the white-washed
mosque of the village of Beth-Safafa came into
view. As it did so a prayer, addressed to the
patron-prophetess El Badariyeh, was muttered
by both men. Little did they think that the
venerated Badariyeh of the Moslems was a
Christian saint before the Aurora of the Greeks,

1 " God give you a plentiful morning, oh ! Abu Muhammad."
Every Oriental enjoys the title of Abu, which corresponds to
our Mr.

130 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

and probably before that dedicated to some
Ashteroth of the Israelites and Canaanites, since
most sanctuaries in Palestine can be traced to the
dawn of history.

When their prayer was at an end, Jabber has-
tened to unburden his mind of the information
which had prompted him to go to meet his cousin
on the road at such an unusual hour. He disclosed
to Ibrahim that his brother, Said es-Saleh, was in
prison at Jerusalem.

" Wa hay at hal Badariyeh ! — By the life
of the Saint ! " said he, lifting his hand in the
direction of the rose-tinted mosque, " I declare
that poor Said is innocent ; and he has sent me
to ask you to go see him, bring him some food
and help him out of his position."

Lowering his voice, as if the surrounding fields
had ears, he added : —

" He is suspected of having stolen a huge sum
of money from the Latin Convent at Jerusalem.
You are known to have influence with the officials,
so do your best to dehver him."

Money questions are always interesting, and
especially were they so to Ibrahim, whose crafty
mind at once detected a gold mine. But he
feigned to disregard the pecuniary side of the
matter and take an interest only in the prisoner's
welfare. Poor Said ! Another innocent one
within the clutches of the hated Turk ! Promising
to do what he could, he advised his cousin to leave

ORIENTAL BARGAINING 131

him there and then, lest they should be seen
together and arouse suspicion. So Jabber promptly
left him and crossed the plain towards his native
home.

II

Immediately Ibrahim drove up the hiU towards
the Jaffa Gate, where he was met by a greengrocer,
who gave him a piaster and a half for breakfast,
and thus prepared him favourably in view of the
purchase of his tomatoes. Before they had reached
the little plateau in front of the gate the grocer
called out to the Kahwadji of a neighbouring
coffee-house to bring two cups of coffee, and,
stopping Ibrahim's donkey, pointed to two low
stools. When seated, the grocer offered his
companion thirty piasters Sagh^ for the thirty
rottels^ of tomatoes. After a good deal of cursing
and swearing "by his eyes and his head, his
children and his own presence " that this offer
was " a total loss " to him, they agreed and rose
to continue their journey through the gate. Very
soon they reached the grocer's shop and the
tomatoes were poured out on to the floor, with
a few crushed fruit at the bottom. This gave rise
to new imprecations.

" I have no distilling shop here, son of a dog,"
cried the grocer. " Do you think I am about to

^ About 5s.

2 A rottel is equal to six and a half pounds.

132 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

set up a drinking den, you dirty Fellah. Accursed
son ! Kafer ! Infidel ! "

Finally the irate tradesman gave Ibrahim
twenty-eight piasters and, to boot, almost flung
him out of the shop.

As though quite accustomed to this treatment,
Ibrahim coolly moved away with his donkey
towards a Khan, where he hastened to put up the
animal before hurrying to the Saraia, or Governor's
Palace, which, as in olden times, was adjacent
to the prison. ^ All the time he had been occupied
with the greengrocer, and indeed ever since he
had left Jabber, his thoughts had centred around
his imprisoned cousin. Whilst on his way he
stopped in the market to buy a few cakes for
Said, and on reaching his destination obtained
admittance to see him by giving a few coppers to
the prison-porter. On seeing his unfortunate
cousin he gravely shook his head and exclaimed :
" Poor Said ! How the vermin have devoured you !
In what a sorry condition are your clothes ! "

Said replied that there was little to wonder at
in that ; there were more than twenty in his cell,
and every one tried to sleep as best he could on the
bare ground. Penniless, he received the least
food possible. After having eagerly devoured
the few cakes Ibrahim had brought with him, they
retired to a corner of the court and, squatting
there. Said told him his story.

^ Cf. Jeremiah xxxii. 2.

By permission of

The American Colony Photographers, Jerusalem

Jaffa Gate

A LUCRATIVE CONFESSION 133

" As you know, I was a servant of the Secretary
and Prior of the Convent of the Redeemer in
Jerusalem, and many big sums of money passed
through his hands. The Secretary was in the
habit of carelessly putting the money-box under
his bed, before carrying it to the bank. One day
the Prior fell ill and, after a few days' unconscious-
ness, died, without anybody knowing of the
treasure in his room. Here was a good oppor-
tunity for me. As they carried the dead body
into the chapel, I appropriated the money-box,
containing no less than 30,000 Napoleons, and that
very night buried the money in Beth-Safafa ;
and whilst they were still officiating about the
dead body I was back again in the convent
without anyone having noticed my absence. But
after a few days it transpired that the money-box
had disappeared. I was arrested and charged with
theft. There is no proof, however, and as long
as I feign to be poor they cannot prove my guilt
even in the future. Now, cousin," said the guileful
Said, "I'll tell you where the money is. Go and
take it away and hide it until we see better days.
Then we can divide it. But in the meantime
take a few hundred pounds and get me out of
prison. Buy clothes and food for me ; bribe the
officials, so that I may be better treated until my
innocence is proved. You will find the box
buried a foot deep in the earth on the smaU hill
on the eastern side of the solitary olive-tree which

134 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

is in a straight line west of the Badariyeh. Swear
to me by the Badariyeh, my cousin, that you will
dig out the box and help me."

Ibrahim promptly swore by the Badariyeh and
by God that he would take the treasure without
delay — " provided it is stiU there," he added,
with a crafty and sceptical look. And having
taken a farewell cup of coffee, which the jailer
provided, Ibrahim departed.

Ill

That same evening Ibrahim et Taiesh went out
to Beth-Safafa and passed the night at his cousin's.
He discovered that nobody but himself and Said
knew anything about the treasure, so he wisely
kept his tongue still on that point. The informa-
tion he gave the imprisoned man's friends and
relatives concerned the horrible state of the prison,
the thieves and murderers who were Said's
companions — all sorts of disreputable people,
mostly Fellahin of the Jerusalem district, whose
company would only corrupt the poor fellow.
Ibrahim went on to say that he had come, there-
fore, to collect some money from them to help to
better his miserable condition. That evening
a few hundred Beshliks ^ were collected and these
Ibrahim promised to take home, to try to find
some more in Urtas to add to them, and then to
set to work for the prisoner's release.

* A Beshlik is about 5d.

A TREASURE FOUND AND LOST 135

Early next morning, when it was yet dark,
Ibrahim left Beth-Safafa and found the tree be-
neath which the treasure was buried. Unearthing
the money-box without much difficulty, he
hid its contents in his pockets and baskets
and, abandoning the box, quietly returned to
Urtas.

Weeks and months passed and still poor Said
was waiting in vain for the promised help. Ibrahim
never went to pay him as much as a visit, but sent
Jabber to tell him that he had not been able to
carry out " the commission," and therefore he
could do nothing for him, except send bread and
oil from time to time, thanks to a collection which
had been made for him. Finally, declaring that
he was tired of bribing the officials to no effect,
he advised Said to await his turn to be released,
and, like the chief of the butlers in Pharaoh's
days, did his best " to forget him." ^

To keep Said in prison the authorities of the
convent had from time to time to disburse sums
of money. This prompted them, at last, to plead
" not guilty " for their old servant ; and thus
Said's first trials came to an end.

Said was no sooner out of prison than, thinking
that Ibrahim had not succeeded in locating the
treasure, he proceeded to the spot where he had
buried it. But, much to his disappointment,
he found it was gone. Shortly afterwards, whilst

^ Genesis xl. 23.

136 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

on his way to Urtas, he discovered the empty
box behind a bush. Was Ibrahim, he thought,
the culprit ? That was a question he would not
be long in solving.

Continuing on his way, he struck the main road
to Bethlehem, near Rachel's tomb. A number
of Bedawin, men and women, were assembled
there for a funeral service, for the Bedawin of the
desert of Judah all bury their dead near Rachel's
sanctuary, as their forefathers the Israelites of
old did around their sanctuaries. ^ Being a good
Moslem, he joined the assembly and told them
how, just out of prison, he was on his way to his
cousin Ibrahim, at Urtas. Then he left them,
and before evening arrived in the village. Said
fully expected to find his cousin a wealthy man,
but, to his astonishment and deUght, instead of
finding luxury and abundance, he found the whole
family, consisting of Ibrahim, his wife, and nine
children, all in one room just home from hard
work in the fields, and about to sit down to an
almost poor supper of lentils and bread. He was
given a hearty welcome and kept there for several
days, during which he went to work with the
others. " No," thought Said, at the end of his
sojourn, " there is not the slightest sign of wealth
here. I am sorry to have suspected my cousin
of villainy." And forthwith he decided to go
back to Jerusalem and find work in his old convent !

^ Genesis xlix. 31.

BLOODY FEUDS 137

IV

During many centuries bloody feuds had been
carried on in the village of Urtas between Ibrahim's
and Salem's people.^ About the time of Said's
release from prison the head of Ibrahim's adverse
party was not very prosperous financially. But,
being in favour with the officials in Jerusalem,
he was elected Mayor of the village. The two
enemies closely watched each other, and Ibrahim
knew that if he showed the least imprudence his
ill-gotten wealth would soon be discovered and
be a cause for new trouble. For the time being,
poverty, he decided, was the best policy.

Years went by and the arrogance of Salem grew
apace. Vexations of all kinds were heaped upon
Salem's enemies. Ibrahim and his wife were
bound together — an unspeakable insult in Islam —
and were taken to gaol to Hebron on the most
futile motive. After a time they were released
by order of the officials. Ibrahim's people were
charged with double and treble taxes ; his fourteen
and fifteen-year-old sons were denounced as
twenty and of an age for conscription, and money
had to be paid in Jerusalem to convince the
authorities that they were still under age. At last
the vexations became too hard, a plot was formed
and Salem was found dead. ^ Whereupon Ibrahim
and some of the leaders of his party were

^ See Murder and Marriage in Urtas, pp. 122, 123. .
2 Ibid., p. 123.

138 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

imprisoned, and for over two years had to feed on
" the bread of affliction and the water of afflic-
tion."^ When Salem's party had exhausted its
funds by bribing the officials to keep its enemies
in prison, it became Ibrahim's turn to show the
power of his hand. He and his people were
released, and the moment that he stepped out of
prison he knew that his buried money, now that
Salem was dead, could be used advantageously.

Not very long afterwards he, in turn, was elected
Mayor of Urtas. By slow degrees he got back
the family lands, gardens and vineyards which —
to his dishonour 2 — had been mortgaged. After
a Ufe of poverty and many hardships he again came
into the possession of the properties inherited
from his forefathers — the result, as everyone
concluded, of a life of assiduous labour, and an
evident blessing from Allah, the bestower of all
good things.

1 I. Kings xxii. 27.

* A Fellah is only considered to be really wealthy when he
possesses land, and, like Naboth of old (see I. l6ngs xxi. 1, 3 and 4),
he will not readily part with the inheritance of his fathers. Losing
his land is as much a dishonour as possessing a dishonoured wife.

VIII

AN EYE FOR AN EYE

I

The frogs of Jericho had reached the noisiest
part of their nocturnal concert. Croak had begun
to answer croak fully a couple of hours before,
and now the whole countryside echoed with the
harsh rasping notes from a hundred thousand dis-
tended cheek-pouches. The howling of jackals
in the distance alone broke the monotonous song.
Yet the small mud-hut town, enclosed by Dom-tree
hedges and inhabited by a few hundred poor
Bedawin agriculturists, tranquilly slept on, and
the habitues of the modern buildings which serve
as hotels on the outskirts turned not once in their
sleep. Only Philip Ralston, a new-comer to the
country, found a difficulty in slumbering.

" ranaeque palustres

Avertunt somnos,"

he said to himself, as the incessant croaking
brought the words of Horace to his mind, and,
what with the frogs, the heat and the fierce buz-
zing of baffled mosquitoes outside his tightly-
drawn curtains, he came to the conclusion that,
tired out though he was with his six hours' ride from
Jerusalem, he was destined to pass a sleepless
night.

199

140 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

It was Philip Ralston's first visit to the East,
and his mind was full of those delightful early
impressions which are produced by the unfamiliar
scenery of a new country, full of light and colour,
and the strange picturesqueness of a new people.
Fresh from Oxford, where he had pursued his
studies with infinite credit, he had come out to
Palestine, at the invitation of his uncle Theodore
Ralston, a prosperous English trader and old
resident of Jerusalem, with the object of per-
fecting his knowledge of Arabic and exploring
the land to which his thoughts had so often turned.
He had an ardent desire to know the country as
his uncle Theodore knew it : to traverse the length
and breadth of the high-lands of Palestine, formed
by the running down of two mountain chains
from Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, — to wander on
the lowlands of the Jordan valley, or El Ghor,
between those two ranges, and on the Plains of
Sharon, along the shore of the Mediterranean, —
to see the Jordan rise at the foot of snow-capped
Mount Hermon and, perhaps, to follow its course
to the south end of the Dead Sea, nearly four
thousand feet below Jerusalem and more than a
thousand below the level of the Mediterranean.
Ah ! thought the weary Philip Ralston, what
pleasures were in store for him ! He had had a
foretaste of them that day when, whilst riding
with his uncle to Jericho, they had tarried on the
Mount of Olives to view the Mountains of Moab ;

EL GHOR 141

an immense blue wall — beautiful to behold —
rising in the Trans jordanic region.

But how hot it was in El Ghor ! He could
understand, now, that 110° in the shade had been
registered there on May 8th, 1847, and why some-
one had said that Jericho was " the hottest place
next to hell ! "

Was uncle Theodore sleeping through it all ?
he wondered. But the point was left undebated, for
just then the incessant croak, croak, croak of the
frogs performed its work and Philip Ralston,
turning over on his side, at last found sleep.

II

Uncle and nephew were in the saddle at dawn,
riding towards the Jordan. They had not been
on their journey across the broad valley for more
than an hour before there occurred one of those
little wayside incidents which so deUghted the
heart of Philip Ralston. At a turning of the
white, dusty road they saw coming towards them,
on a pure-bred Arab steed, a fine-looking Bedawi
chief. He was riding slowly, as the Bedawin
always do, except when in danger, and was armed
and accoutred in accordance with his station. A
carabine was hanging from his saddle-knob ; he
was girded by a Damascene sword, inlaid with
silver ; and on his shoulder he was carrying his
heavy twelve-foot long spear, with its ornamental
crown of black ostrich feathers — about the size

II— (3131)

142 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

of a man's head — around the shaft, just below the
blade. The breast and belly of his fine mare
were entirely covered with long tassels in red,
green, white and yellow, to ward off the flies, and
as it proudly stepped along these pendent orna-
ments danced and shimmered in the morning sun
like gems suspended on silken cords.

" Ah ! an old friend of mine ! " exclaimed
Theodore Ralston, on seeing the Bedawi. " Now,
PhiUp, my boy, you will take your first lesson in
Eastern ceremonial."

And he pushed forward on his horse to offer the
customary greeting : " Salaam aleik — Peace be
to you ! "

" Aleik es-salaam ! — And to you peace also ! "
responded the Bedawi, a stately man with black
moustachios and a beard resembling that of
Napoleon III, but without its artifice.

" Sleem Ali-el-Thiab, this is my nephew, PhiUp
Ralston, who has come from afar to be one of us,"
continued the uncle, in the purest Arabic. " We
are on our way to feast our eyes on the sacred
waters of the Jordan."

With these words, the EngUsh trader, as an
additional token of friendship, held forth his
tobacco bag, which every real Bedawi accepts
gratefully. Sleem filled his long pipe and returned
the pouch, with a wish that " it might always
be fuU." Theodore Ralston received it back
and said, " by your voice." These compliments

A BEDAWI CHIEF . 143

preceded the lighting of the pipe, when others
were exchanged.

" May you never know its evil/' said the trader,
as he handed a hghted match.

" Nor you its heat," responded the Bedawi,
as, with evident satisfaction, he applied it to the
bowl and began to inhale the fragrant smoke.

Ill

When Sleem AH-el-Thiab, after stating his busi-
ness in Jericho and wishing them, in the name of
Allah, a safe journey, had gone on his way, Theo-
dore Ralston explained when and where he had
made this dignified man's acquaintance. It was
a curious story, embodying a tragic adventure in
the life of the Bedawi chief, and full of those Httle
known ethnological and scientific facts which can
only be gathered during long years of intimate
contact with a country and its people. Philip
felt that he would not have missed it for the world.

" It was at the beginning of April, 1874, early
in the morning, that I first saw Sleem Ali-el-
Thiab," began the trader. " He was riding slowly
along this very road, but in the opposite direction
to which he was going to-day, and he was dressed
and armed in exactly the way you have seen him.
I became his friend, on trotting up to him with a
* Salaam aleik,' after going through identically
the same ceremonial you have just witnessed. A
remarkable fact — this unchangeableness of things

144 IHE IMMOVABLE EAST

in the East ; and the longer you live in Palestine
the more you will notice it. Men grow old, as
Sleem and I, alas ! show only too clearly, but
habits and customs and modes of thought remain
the same. That is why you so often hear me speak
of the Immovable East.

" Well, when the ice was broken by my offering
him the tobacco pouch and we rode on together, I
learnt that he was a son of Ali-el-Thiab of the
Aduan tribe. Consequently his fuU name is Sleem
AU-el-Thiab-el-Aduan. The Aduans are a warlike
people of the Transjordanic region who winter on
the Plain of Sittim and pass most of the summer
and autumn on the highlands of Moab. The
eastern portion of the plain, with Nimrin as a
centre, consists of fine arable land, interspersed,
here and there, by miles of forests of the Lote-
tree, or Rhamnus naheca, which is also known
among the Arabs as the D 6m- tree or Sidr, and
which is noteworthy for its thorn-apples, the
only fruit of the Bedawi and much appreciated,
when dried by the natives, for their sweet flavour.
These Dom-forests, as Sleem told me, are almost
impenetrable to man. Hyaenas, jackals, wolves,
and foxes abound, whilst birds of every kind,
from vultures to titmice, make themselves at
home in the thickets. Like the frogs of Jericho
by night, so in these dense forests do two kinds
of turtle-doves, in wailing tones, call out aU day
long : one for its lost plumage — * Ya-joukh-ti !

LIFE IN THE THICKET 145

Ya-joukh-ti ! ' — and the other, a sacred bird,
thanking its creator — ' Ya kareem ! Ya kareem !
— Oh ! merciful ! Oh ! merciful ! ' Big snakes
of all kinds steal along through the undergrowth
hunting for mice and birds. There is the immense
Esculap of the Colubridae family of Ophidians
and the bluish-black Zamenis carbonarius, which
often exceeds two yards and rises to half its length
when about to strike ; and this Carbonarius,
otherwise called * Hanash,' is certainly, with the
Esculap, the * Na'hash ' of the Bible, — the brazen
serpent of Moses.

" Such is the home of Sleem Ali-el-Thiab-el-
Aduan.

" As he told me these things, we rode along the
cornfields, the ears often rising high above our
heads and giant marygolds lining the fields.
Sleem also spoke about the forthcoming harvest
and the part they would have to give to the * vile
Fellah.' For a self-respecting Bedawi never tills
the ground, but lets his lands to the Fellah of the
Jerusalem district, who does the work and furnishes
the seed, giving a quarter of the gross receipts
in return to the landlord.

" After the arable lands and forests came a
sandy desert, where reptiles and mice abound,
and which stretches, as you will later see,
as far as the marly hills preceding Jordan.
Here Sleem called my attention to the
dangerous nature of the surroundings — to these

146 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

slimy hills, where not only boars hide in the
rushes but where men might easily lie in wait
for stray travellers. His mind seemed singularly
full of suspicion, and I could tell from his quick
glances to right and left that he was on his guard
against some possible unseen enemy. In another
half -hour we reached the forest of poplars, willows
and licorice-trees, and it was then that an incident
occurred which has a direct bearing on my story.
Sleem suddenly pulled in his horse and warned
me, with a sharp cry, to do the same. With his
eyes directed on the road in front of him and a
stern look on his face, he and his tightly-reined-in
mare stood like a statue.

" * Tarsha ! ' he exclaimed.

" And there, indeed, in front of us, I saw a
Daboia viper crossing the road. Once it stopped
and blew up its head in the Cobra di Capello
fashion, but soon it proceeded on its way and dis-
appeared in the shrubs. I was for going after it,
but Sleem told me not to interfere, as only the
Dervishes, or Moslem monks belonging to the
holy order of the Sheikh Ehmad el-Erf a 'i, who lived
in the days of the glory of the Khaleefs of Meso-
potamia, had authority, as viper-charmers, to
meddle with snakes.

" * Heed not this Tarsha, the Deaf,' said the
Bedawi, solemnly. * Shale illah ! ya rjahl
Allah ! — Respect to God, oh ! men of God ! Does
not the viper-charmer himself bid everybody

THE DEAF ADDER 147

leave snakes alone ? This Deaf One, friend,
heareth not ! '

** You know what the Psalmist says, Philip ?
* The wicked are like the deaf adder that stoppeth
her ear ; which will not harken to the voice of
charmers, charming never so wisely.' The
Immovable East again, my boy.

" And perhaps it was just as well I followed
Sleem's advice, for the Dahoia Xanthina, which,
like many vipers, coils and lifts its head ready to
strike, and then darts in the direction of its victim,
is a particularly dangerous creature. A mere
scratch from its fangs is sufficient to cause certain
death. It is generally very little over a yard in
length, but is as thick as the Esculap. A nasty
customer is the Tarsha, or, as it is less poetically
called, the Za'ara — the short-tailed.

" Our meeting the Daboia seemed to cast a
cloud over Sleem Ali-el-Thiab's mind. He
remained silent until we had crossed the Jordan.
There was no bridge over the river in those days,
and as my new friend was unable to swim, I had
to cross the stream four times : twice for him and
his mare and twice for my one horse and my
clothes. In this way we lost quite an hour and a
half.

'* It was the sight of some caves at the foot of
the mountains of Moab, and when we had been on
the road again two hours or so, which caused
Sleem to open his mouth once more.

148 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

" * God curse him ! ' he exclaimed, with a bit-
terness which made me give a quick glance at his
still solemn, thoughtful face.

" I asked him to whom he referred, whereupon
he told me the story of the adventure which the
Daboia and the caves had brought to his mind.

" The Rascheidy Bedawin of the western shores
of the Dead Sea had come, he related, on a cattle-
lifting expedition to the eastern shores and were
overtaken by the Aduans. In their retreat, an
Aduany Bedawi was killed by Muhammad el-
Rachidi of the Rascheidy, and, as Moslem law
recognises, Muhammad was a blood-debtor to
Sleem and all the Thiab family. Both Jewish and
Moslem lawgivers are of the same opinion on this
point. We read in Exodus^ : * He that smiteth
a man so that he die shall be surely put to death,'
and a little further on ^ : ' Eye for eye, tooth for
tooth, hand for hand, foot for foot, burning for
burning, wound for wound, stripe for stripe.*
The Koran ^ says : * Believers ! Retaliation is set
up for murder. A freeman shall be put to death
for a freeman, a slave for a slave, a woman for a
woman, and so forth.'

" Now, years had passed since this encounter
between the two tribes, and, though a Moslem
never forgives, Muhammad, who had business
to attend to away from home, had almost forgotten
that Aduans might be roaming about. Still,

1 xxi. 12. « Verses 24 and 25. » Sura ii. 175.

FACE TO FACE 149

in the instinctive manner of a Rascheidy Bedawi,
he cautiously crossed the Jerusalem to Jericho
road and hid in a cave above the declivity of the
Wady Kelt,— the Brook Cherith of the Bible.
There, in order to avoid encountering an enemy
whilst on his way home and on a prospective visit
up El Ghor to the Beni Sakhr (who roam about
Bashan and Galilee), he went to sleep, intending
to come out at nightfall and continue his journey.
Just before dusk he peeped out of his hiding
place. But at that very moment, to his terror,
an Aduany was passing and caught sight of him.
It was Sleem, the son of Ali-el-Thiab.

" * Ya marun il waldain ! — Cursed of both
parents ! ' cried Sleem, riding up with his hand on
his sword. * Have you fallen at last into the hands
of men ? '

" Terror-stricken, Muhammad el-Rachidi begged
for his life, crying : * Ana fi dakh-lak — I am
under your protection ! '

" Now, it is an unwritten law among these
people that a dignified Bedawi ought never to beg,
even for his life. Moreover, Sleem, the son of a
great chieftain, with three hundred horsemen,
whose steeds and arms, at least, he could call his
own, could not, by reason of his superior station,
refuse a humble petition for mercy. So, as he
looked down, with blood-shot eyes, on the kneeling
Muhammad, his blood boiled at the thought that
he had lost an occasion for vengeance. How sweet

150 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

it would have been to have carried out the law of
the Koran : * A freeman shall be put to death for a
freeman ! '

*' The well-known words had no sooner occurred
to him when a strange thing happened. His
quick eye caught sight of a huge Daboia viper
as it coiled back into a hole in the rock above
Muhammad's head ! A thought flashed through
his brain.

" * Muhammad el-Rachidi,' said Sleem, slowly
and with great presence of mind, ^rise and await
your destiny/

" ' No/ replied the trembling Bedawi, * not
until you have sworn that you will not harm
me.*

" * Get up, accursed ! ' cried Sleem, severely.
* I swear by Allah and the life of Allah ! — Wallahi
Billahi ! — that I, the son of Thiab, will not seek
your life, neither by this firearm' — touching his
carabine — * nor by this steel ' — touching his
sword — * but will leave you to die by God's will
and when he will. And now, Muhammad, swear
to me that, in return, you will never again attempt
anything against any of my family, great or small ;
and as we have no prayer-niche or other sacred
place near by, put your hand into that hole, repre-
senting a Mu'hrab (a prayer-stand) ' — pointing to
the Daboia' s retreat — 'and swear.*

" Muhammad el-Rachidi rose and readily put
forth his hand, but no sooner had it entered the

FATE'S DEADLY STROKE 151

hole than the deadly stroke was given and he fell,
with pallid face, to the ground.

" ' Kteeby wa inkatbat ! — the sentence was
written ! The sentence was written ! ' cried
Muhammad, whose features were already begin-
ning to twitch convulsively, * I was destined to
die here and to-day ! *

" * Naseebak ! God willed it ! It is your lot,'
cried Sleem, fiercely, as he coolly looked on at the
agony of his enemy.

" A quarter of an hour later the Bedawi turned
rein, leaving the dying Rascheidy to the jackals
and the hyaenas, and rode at full speed to his
tribe, eager to announce the happy yet fatal news.
And the women ululated and joy went through
the camp, for the dead Aduany was revenged.

" Such was the story which Sleem Ali-el-Thiab
related to me when, invited to pay my first
visit to his people, I was riding with him towards
their encampment," concluded Theodore Ralston.
"As we reached the * black tents of Kedar,' of
which the Bible tells us, night was coming on and
barking dogs came forth to meet us. At the tent
doors fires had been lit for supper and women were
busy baking. Half -naked children ran about in
all directions. Horses of the finest breed, all
ready saddled, were tethered at a short distance.
Cows and camels were chewing in the central parts
of the camp. And, later, men gathered before

152 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

the guest-tent, sipping their coffee and smoking
their pipes, to talk over the events of the day
and discuss the question of a Ghazu to be under-
taken as soon as the harvest was over and the
wheat had been stored away in the wheat-wells."

n

< s

^

o

-^

o

IX

LAIL

" Bous el kalh 'alia thimmo, ta takhut 'hakak tntnno."

" Kiss the dog on the mouth, till- you obtain what you want of
him." — An Arab Proverb.

The sons of Adam disdain dogs, but in many
places they raise us up and utilise us. Thus, in
the camp where I lived, there were shepherd
dogs, with thick fur, and watch-dogs, with a smooth
coat all over, and the tall, thin greyhounds
which are used for hunting the gazelles on the
broad plains of Philistia, near my first home.

I was born in camp, south of Beersheba, and
belonged to a family of the Azazmeh Arabs. On
account of my jet black fur they called me Lail,
— Night. We travelled up and down the desert of
Edom. Sometimes my masters camped near the
borders of Gaza. And once, when our people were
hard pursued by the Jahaline Arabs, with whom
we were at war, we passed near a village. When
young and on the move, I was carried on the
back of a camel with the children, but later I
followed — mile after mile — on foot, with the
other dogs of our community.

Though each dog belonged to a separate tent
and each received his food from his own master,

153

154 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

we exercised our calling in common. All night,
or whenever we heard strange sounds, we barked.
We were more indifferent to the wailing of jackals ;
— we pitied the poor fellows, and they never
(except at certain periods, when even jackals and
bitches meet) came near us. But we pricked up
the stumps of our cropped ears when the hideous
laughter of the hyaena was heard, and together
we chased in the direction of the enemy. In
the daytime we were generally at rest, within the
shadow of the tents, but only until some foreigner
passed. We could easily distinguish Fellahin
or other strangers, who generally came on foot or
on mules. Then we would bark our loudest.
But should any Bedawi or camels of our own tribe
approach by day or by night not a dog would move
his tongue. Of course, there were exceptions to
the rule. A Bedawi might come in or try to
enter from the west, where the tent ropes indicate
there is no entrance, and that we could never allow.
Full of experience, and covered with wounds and
scars, were my elders. Our first leader was Sabe* —
the Lion, who really deserved his name. He had
lost an eye in a fight with a huge hyaena, which,
creeping up to the camp, would have carried off a
goat or a sheep but for Sabers vigilance. Sabe'
attacked the hyaena, but before the other dogs
arrived to assist him, the beast, with his mighty
teeth, had seized our leader's head and pierced an
eye. Feehng the dogs upon him, our enemy fled

SCARRED DOGS 155

for his life and told his fellows that they had
" better eat clay than risk a battle with the dogs
of the Arab."^ The news spread, and thus did
Sabe' come to be dreaded by all the wild beasts
of the neighbourhood.

Baida, the old white bitch, too, was marked
across her back with scars which she had received
in a fight with two wolves. But for Ibrak, the
black and white dog, who became the leader of
our band when Sabe' (as I will tell you presently)
was killed, she would have been almost skinned.
A brave and trustworthy chief was Ibrak. His
master often used to say : " I could not be sure of
retaining my tent and my flocks without him.
His place is marked." Yet Ibrak had a broken
limb, the result of an attack on our camp, — this
time by man. There were few of us, indeed —
and least of all Hawa, the Wind, who could almost
fly — who could not say that he or she had licked
an honourable wound.

Looking back to those days, I think that I can
say that we were generally well treated by our
masters. Was it because they needed us ? For
they say, you know : " Kiss the dog on the
mouth, till you obtain what you want of him."
Yes ; I think that the Bedawin are really fond
of dogs. Was not Sabe' as much loved by his
owner as he was feared by the wild beasts ? . . .
Poor Sabe' ! What a splendid leader he was! —

* A well-known Arab proverb.

156 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

what keen senses he possessed ! — how easily he
could detect the slightest smell or sound I

II

Late one evening, when the camp-fires had died
out, an unaccustomed sound was heard in the
darkness. As quick as hghtning, Sabe' rushed in
the direction of the noise, closely followed by Hawa,
Ibrak, Beda, and the remainder of our band.
We found a man lying on the ground ; — he had
stumbled over a peg and a tent-cord. What
could have been his business there, late at night
and coming from the west, whence no honest
Bedawi comes ? ^ We all compassed him and
attacked him fiercely, ^ and Sabe^ who had bitten
him in the calf of the leg, would surely have torn
him to pieces had not the intruder shot him in the
head.

The report of the pistol alarmed the camp and
in an instant everyone was afoot. Suffering
from several bites, and hindered by us from
escaping, the unknown one was soon captured.
He was beaten and put in chains until morning,
when he was found to belong to a neighbouring
friendly tribe. What could have been his object
in coming from the west and in the darkness of the
night ? Had he come to see a friend ? . . .
However, a commission of three men from each

^ The openings of the tents in an Arab camp always face the
East.

• Cf. Psalms xxii. 16.

HAPPY CAMP LIFE 157

camp was appointed to judge him for killing a dog.
And as Sabe', according to his owner, was a most
valuable animal, the culprit was condemned to
pay for him, — the price being a heap of flour as
high as would reach the tip of Sabers tail when he
was held vertically with his nose to the ground.

Afterwards, when I left the camp and lived in a
town, I found that dogs were killed without
anybody interfering. But it was different with
the Bedawin, who treated us really most respect-
fully, compared with the disdainful treatment I
received among townsmen. True, the dogs in
towns are often very mean. But that is because
they are ill-used. They have a saying, there, that
" a dog begat a puppy, who turned out more
unclean than his father." Now, I beg to ask,
how can a dog be clean who feeds on carcasses and
rubbish, and who lies down to sleep in unswept
streets ?

Ah ! yes, things were very different in my old
camp. I used even to play with the children and
receive food from their hands. I was young then,
for the older dogs never play with the children.
Though we had nearly always enough to eat,
the arrival of visitors was ever welcomed among us,
for that meant a feast for all. The guests received
their food in a central tent and fed us on the bones
and scraps. Ours was a social life ; we rarely
quarrelled over food. . . . My thoughts go back
to a certain day on which a calf was torn to pieces

12 — (2131)

158 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

by wolves not far from the encampment. When
our masters came to the rescue the animal was
deadj so they abandoned it to us, because they said
it was unclean.^ But we found it anything but
that and all agreed that man's tastes were strange.

Ill

After Sabe"s death Ibrak became our leader,
and about the same time Beda had four young
ones, which she protected against wind and cold
behind a tent. One day, a boy from the inside
touched her soft fur and said : " It is really very
fine and warm." Whereupon I heard his father
reprove him and say : " Zei souf el klaab, na'em
wa nijiss, — Though the dog's wool is soft, it is
unclean." Feeling very sorry for Beda, I
approached her to show my sympathy, but she
flew at me so fiercely that I ran away as fast as I
could, yelping all the time. How very queer
both men and dogs are ! Our masters speak of
us as unclean, yet we love them dearly ; whilst
we are ready, at times, to persecute every weaker
dog, though its intentions may be of the best.

When Beda's puppies were three weeks old the
owner of the last tent came and asked for a J arm
(a puppy) and took away a brown one. On
seeing this Jarru's pendent ears, I imagined it
must be of another race and felt so glad. I

^ Cf. Exodus xxii. 31 : " And ye shall be holy men unto me ;
neither shall ye eat any flesh that is torn of beasts in the field ;
ye shall cast it to the dogs."

KATTOOSH 159

thought of the fun of puUing them when at play.
But the cruel man took the poor browny to his
tent and, cutting his ears in halves, forced him to
eat the bits, under the pretext that this would
make him more fierce. The Jarru howled and
howled for hours, whereupon the children laughed
and called him Kattoosh, — the Earless. He was
given this name at first for fun, but he ever
afterwards retained it.

Kattoosh remained a prisoner in a hen-coop
for eight days. On rolling away the stone at the
entrance, to shove in the potsherd containing his
meal of bread soaked in water, the children daily
told each other that he was to remain there until
his wounds were healed. But he was not wholly
free when released from his box. They attached
him for another week to a tent-peg, so that he
might know (as they said) his home and his mas-
ters. Then he was freed from his cord, — never,
during the whole of his Ufe, to be attached
again.

It was a free life in the camp of the Bedawin, —
a life full of new experiences and adventures with
Kattoosh. I taught him to catch lizards and bark
and bite at serpents. But we never ate any, as
jackals and cats do. We dogs preferred to eat
dry bread, the lentils or pastry which our masters
wasted, and, once in a while, to gnaw a bone. We
knew, moreover, how to find the carcasses of
animals lying at a distance, long before the smell

160 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

reached us, by the sight of the vultures and ravens
soaring above them.

That first winter of my life, — how well I remem-
ber it ! Continual rains brought much trouble
to our camp. We could never find a dry place.
As we had not yet left the mountains, the flocks
suffered terribly from scarcity of food. One
afternoon, during a thunderstorm, several weak
goats were lost. We hunted for them the next
morning and at last found their dead bodies near
some rocks, under the lee of which they had sought
shelter. Again there was a big feast, in company
with the birds of the air and the beasts of the field. ^
We barked all night to drive away the jackals and
the hyaenas, but at last we could eat no more, so
we returned to the camp and slept until dawn.
Only two carcasses were left, and these were gnawed
and torn, when we later inspected the remains.
Hyaenas had carried away the others. And very
soon the ravens and the eagles finished the rest.^

On account of the severe winter and the stench
from the carcasses, our masters loaded the camels
with the tents and furniture, and set off towards
the warmer lowlands. Whilst on the way we
overtook another party of Arabs, whose destina-
tion was the same as ours. The two bands, who
were on friendly terms, greeted each other with
fair words. But I never heard of dogs of different
camps doing the same. No sooner did we see the

1 Cf. II. Samuel xxi. 10. « cf. Proverbs xxx. 17.

LEFT BY THE ROADSIDE 161

rival pack than we attacked it fiercely. Never
before was there such a barking and a howling,
such a growling and a tearing at each other as
then. Friend and foe were soon inextricably
entangled, each snapping and jumping at his
neighbour's throat, until, at last, the men inter-
fered with sticks and clubs. ^ In the midst of this
terrible melee I received a blow on the head which
stunned me and left me stretched on the ground
as though dead.

" Poor Lail ! " I heard some of my people
say. " What a pity ! Who was it struck him ? "

As they were discussing the matter, an elderly
man intervened and said : —

" Why trouble your heads about him ? You
know the proverb: 'A dog became a carcass.'
Lose no more time ! Had it been Sabe^ the One-
eyed, or Ibrak the Lame, or Hawa the Swift,
or even Beda the Flayed, we might have sought
out the evil-doer. But it is only Lail ! He had
a big voice, a good appetite, and he hid during
the night. Allah yekhfi, — May God hide him ! "

And they left me lying in the middle of the rough
roadway. I could hear their footsteps and voices
fading away in the distance but could not move a
hair.

IV

The day was far gone when I heard strange
voices approaching, — voices surely not those of

^ Cf. I. Samuel xvii. 43.

162 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Bedawin. The new-comers rode on mules and
had luggage sacks. There were no camels, no
women, no children, and not a single dog. Their
conversation had nothing to do with either flocks
or camps or war expeditions. They spoke in a
strange dialect of buildings and towns, of the sale
of butter and he-goats, of money and of the buying
of bread. Ah ! how hungry I was and how the
mention of food made me long for some !

" Halloo ! " cried the first man on catching
sight of me. " Here's a dog. How came he
here ? "

And uttering a strange call — " Kss ! Kss ! " —
he cast a morsel of bread in my direction. I rose
and timidly crept towards it, for I feared their
strange faces. There was nought else to strike
terror in my heart, — neither sticks, nor stones,
nor weapons ; they carried hardly a stick with
which to beat their mules.

I followed them when the bread was eaten, for
what more does a dog require than bread and
human company ? Though they were almost
always harsh to me when I approached too near,
yet, from time to time, they threw me food.

By evening we came to a stone-built village.
The houses were further apart than our tents,
which form a protection one to the other. There,
every house had a protecting wall around it and a
door leading into a courtyard. And every house
possessed a dog, which, barking and rushing

A DOG'S DUTY 163

inside the wall, threatened to reach us. Evidently
these animals were of the watch-dog class, like
our own ; only they did not live together, as with
us. This struck me as strange. For I had always
imagined that, just as men gathered together, so
did dogs flock together by night, when they lived
in the same group of houses or tents. There were
few of these viUage dogs, too, which had scars.
Were they never attacked by beast or by man ?

My new masters tethered the mules in an en-
closure away from the houses, and there I stood on
guard all night. That is a dog's work, and it is
weU, in an unknown place, to be loud-voiced and
angry. But long before dawn, and whilst the
stars were still twinkling, the mules were packed
and off we went, over hills and valleys, through
olive-groves and vineyards. Noon found us near
water, where the mules drank and fed and rested ;
at sunset we reached a big gate and a place
surrounded by high waUs.

There were no courtyards to the houses in this
city, ^ and as we passed along the streets I wondered
where the dogs could be. Soon, every man in our
party went in a different direction, so that I was
at a loss to know whom to foUow. I could not
forget that I was nobody's dog . . . My choice
feU on the man who had first given me bread.
Dismounting from his mule, he knocked at a
door, which he entered with his animal. I

* Jerusalem.

164 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

prepared to follow. But to my disappointment
he turned round and kicked me, exclaiming : —

" Out ! unclean dog ! Barra ! Yen 'al !— Out,
cursed animal ! "

And he banged the door behind him,
murmuring : " Akhs ! Coward ! "

There I was, alone in a great city, where people
possess everything more plentifully than in a
camp yet have no room for a dog. But a faithful
dog will not abandon his master's house because
curses are heaped upon him. It is true that they
say : " He who is in need of a dog calls him Hadj
Ehmad." However, as in the fields, where I was
wanted, I continued my duty. All through the
night and at everyone who passed I barked my
loudest. Many were the stones which came my
way.

My reward came with the dawn, when the people
in the houses threw their refuse into the streets.
Soon I learnt that I must pick up my living in this
way or die ; so for several days I sought among the
rubbish heaps for food. One morning, three or
four men came along, dragging a dead ass out of
the town. Several dogs were following, so I
joined them. Seeing us, one of the men said : —

" Verily proverbs are ever true ! Do not we
say : * Mote il 'Hameer faraj lal klaab — The
death of donkeys is providential for dogs ? '
Look, they are following us already."

They dragged the dead ass beyond the city

By permission of The American Colony Photographers, Jerusalem

A Street in Jerusalem

AMONGST THE RUBBISH 165

gates and there, over the dunghill, cast it down. ^
For a moment we stood overlooking the deep
declivity, and behold, at the bottom, were ravens
and dogs searching for morsels among the bones of
older skeletons. Down we scampered and began
to feast on the new carcass. Of course, there
was plenty for all, making it needless to quarrel.

With my head all besmeared with blood (no
wonder the sons of Adam call us unclean ! )
I passed back through the city gates and, greeted
with sticks and stones, ran for my life. At the
end of a long thoroughfare with a sharp turning
I came to a place where many busy people were in
front of food shops and dogs were on every side.
One bi^ fellow, covered with scars, was lying down
in front of a shop where a man was cooking pastry
and putting it on plates. It was the smell of the
Samn (melted butter) which attracted my atten-
tion. The well-known odour made me lift my
nose and sniff the scented air. The man with the
pastry threw a piece which had fallen on the
ground in my direction. I pounced upon it,
whereupon the big dog growled and made a rush
to deprive me of the tasty morsel. FUght was
impossible, — I was in a corner ; the only thing
to do was to back, imploringly, against the wall.
But at that moment the pastryman cried : —

" A 'raj ! What are you about ? "

* Cf. Jeremiah xxii. 19 : " He shall be buried with the
burial of an ass, drawn and cast beyond the gates of Jerusalem."

166 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

A 'raj, the Lame One, obeyed and limped back
to receive his legitimate share.

At last I had found a man who really loved a
dog.

Every day found me outside the shop of the
good-hearted pastrycook. There I had ample
opportunity for completing my city education.
Many were the things which came under my
observation. I noticed, for instance, that the
cook's customers were only men, — that no women
were about the streets, as in the camp. One or
two I had caught sight of in the houses, but they
seldom went out and very rarely to the shops.
Another impressive fact was that A 'raj had
pointed ears, — a proof that cropping was not gen-
erally practised in the city. But though many
dogs had whole ears, there was not one without
scars. A httle later I learnt how these came.
One forenoon, when I was sleeping, a band of
boys came towards me with sticks and stones,
and as I never suspected mischief, they covered
my body with blows and wounds. Ever after,
on the appearance of boys, I got up and ran in the
opposite direction.

A 'raj , who was always lying in the neighbourhood
of his master's shop, was the chief of his quarter.
Every dog within a hundred yards acknowledged
him as leader and every bitch almost crawled

THE DOGS OF JERUSALEM 167

when he stood up. When a strange dog, on its
way from the dunghill, passed through the
pastrycook's street, A'raj would give the signal
and we would attack him until he was out of
our region. I discovered from this that each dog
had his own quarter and kept to it as much as
possible.

Not far away was the street where the butchers'
dogs congregated. One of them I knew and thus,
under his protection (for I was never very strong
and nobody ever feared that / should become a
leader) I visited his home and discovered his mode
of life. The doorposts and the shelves of the shops
were all bloody and greasy ; skinned he-goats and
rams hung outside on hooks ; and the dogs licked
the blood as it dropped to the ground, or caught
the pieces of bone as they flew from the butchers'
wooden blocks. Small indeed was our portion,
for these greedy dogs, that could never be satisfied,
would not let us approach.^

There was no growing very fat on the little food
I found here and there. The bare living I found
was nothing in comparison with my free field
and camp life. And so, when I slept, I dreamed
of tents and Kattoosh, of running with Sabe' and
Beda, and with Ibrak and Hawa. Sometimes I
would jump up as though jackals were approach-
ing or distant sounds had broken upon the quietness
of the camp. How I longed then for the old home !

1 Cf. Isaiah Ivi. 11.

168 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Very often herds of he-goats and rams passed
through our streets, driven by men who had
knives in their girdles. Were they shepherds ?
— thought I. Sometimes they returned, carrying
dead skinned animals on their shoulders. I
puzzled over the reason for this strange occurrence.
One day I determined to follow, and found that,
instead of driving the animals to the fields, they
gathered them into a dirty space, strewn with
bones and horns, soaked with blood, and swarming
with flies. Then I began to understand. I saw
the animals bound by their feet, thrown on the
ground and slaughtered, just as they used to do in
camp. Only there they killed them one at a time ;
here, in the city, they slaughtered them by scores.

Many dogs were congregated at this slaughter-
ing place. But what strange beasts they were !
Not one of them barked at me. I thought that
they must be dumb ^ and remembered that I had
once heard someone say, when a dog would not
move : " He is like the dogs of the slaughtering
place, wishing for hunger and rest."

Like them, that day, I ate till I could neither
move nor bark. But all the time I felt disgusted
at the myriads of flies and worms, the smell of
blood, the vultures, and above all at my lazy
dumb companions with their rough wild fur.
Once more I yearned for the old life : my play-
mates the children, the desert, the pure open air,

1 Cf. Isaiah Ivi. 10.

IN THE FIELDS 169

and the clear moonlit nights when we used to bay
at the great light, thinking that someone was
approaching with a lantern. And I began to
ponder over the problem of how to leave the city
behind me.

VI

Once more I followed the rams to the slaughter-
ing place and once more I passed a day with the
dumb dogs, licking blood. ^ But not many animals
were kiUed that day ; those that were spared
were driven out of the city to the fields. I seized
my opportunity and followed the man who was
behind them, — a man with bare legs and certainly
not of the city. He had looked at me, as I thought,
compassionately, and had thrown me bread.
Once he had actually called out, " Ta'o-ta'o !
Kss-kss ! "

What else could I do but run up to him and
follow at his heels, almost hidden by the dust
raised by the flock of rams ?

Oh ! the joy at having once more found some
one to care for me !

The rams were put up in a village and through-
out the night I ran about the court, barking. In
the daytime I followed to the pastures. From
time to time the shepherd fed me, for I soon
became indispensable. I searched the rocks
which the flocks passed for hiding jackals or men
who might be lying in wait to steal the goats

1 Cf. I. Kings xxii. 38.

170 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

or lambs. I brought them together when they
strayed too far from their master. I guarded them
against the danger of the night. The people
of the house, who called me Ghareeb, because, to
them, I was a Stranger, said that I was worth a
man, — and even more than some men.

Life in my new home was infinitely more pleas-
ant than that in the city. Yet I saw little of the
other dogs about the village, each being attached
to his own house. Sometimes, however, I met
my next door neighbour on the refuse-heaps near
the ovens and played with him. ^ Yes, once more
I wrestled and romped in the open. But more
than this, — we received gifts of lumps of bread,
or dough which had fallen into the ashes, and,
when the men were absent, were even admitted
to the houses by the women and fed by their
hands. On rainy days we entered the warm oven
building, which is always a part of the house, and
went to sleep in the warm ashes until dawn.
When the noise of the mills ceased and the
women came to bake the bread we crawled out,
because we did not care to be driven forth, and on
hearing the footsteps of men or boys we scampered
away for our lives. The men often kneel down to
pray on the roof or elsewhere, and on these occa-
sions are particularly angry with us. I have heard
them say that we must not on any account be

1 The Arabs say, when speaking of this or that one's conduct :
" He is as funny as a dog playing on a dunghill."

CATS HONOURED 171

allowed to approach them ; and even when,
perchance, we have taken a bath, they shun us
the more, saying that the water dripping from our
coats soils their praying ground and that for
" forty yards about a dog it is unclean." Little
wonder that we are fonder of women than of men !
These sons of Adam are indeed curious folk.
They are fond of cats, who steal their food and are
never chased as we are. They permit them to lie
on the skirts of women and children, and, worse
still, they regard them as holy. Cats catch rats
and mice and serpents and lizards, which we
disdain, — and yet they call them holy ! But
we are unclean and filthy beasts. They even
believe that a cat will be avenged, saying : " For
killing a cat there is no pardon." They tell
stories about Soandso, who became blind for hav-
ing killed a cat, — about another whose leg was
broken for having ill-treated a cat. Never, never
do they speak of the evil which follows on the ill-
treatment of a dog. And though they know and
repeat : " The cat has got into the habit of eating
chickens," all they do when it is at fault is to
shout : " Out ! cat . . . Barra ! Biss ! " . . .
Ah ! yes, cats have indeed a good time compared
to us. They sleep indoors on the mats and on the
bedding ; they sit by the warm fire ; they eat
with their masters and mistresses ; they are
caressed by them and their fur is declared to be
as soft as silk.

172 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Have you ever noticed, too, among the Arabs
that when anyone has shown courage he is com-
pared to the noble lion, — an animal which they
know only by name ? Yet they maintain that
" a Hon remains a lion, though he be brought up
with dogs, but a dog remains a dog, though he be
warmed on a golden stove." Certainly we are
dogs and can never be anything else.

Another injustice : when a man is not quite
fair in his dealings, the dog is taken as a com-
parison. " A dog's tail," they say, " can never
be straight, though you put it under a hundred
presses." What has our curved tail to do with
men's vices ? I believe that if our tails were as
straight and as stiff as a ruler they would still
find fault with it.

One day people of another race and speech^
passed through our village. They had dogs with
collars on, — another unknown thing with us.
And when we village dogs ran to chase them, they
hid behind their masters, who even touched and
caressed them. I wonder how they liked this ?
When men or women stretch out their hands to
us it is generally with no good intention, and we
jump aside as quickly as possible. Only the grey-
hounds in my old camp were touched and fed by
the hand of man. They were given just the
right quantity of food, to hinder them from feeding

* Europeans.

"NO VIRTUE IN FASTING" 173

on carrion ; and their feet were anointed with
oil before starting on a hunting expedition, so
that their paws, when pursuing the swift-footed
gazelles, would not stick in the mud.

However, notwithstanding all my complaints,
I have been better off in the village than in the
city, and though I have had less to eat than in
my first home, I have spent many happy years
here. Sometimes the people eat nothing aU
day, but there is generally plenty for all by night
time. Of course, dogs are now chosen as a proof
that there is no virtue for fasting in Ramadan, as
shown by the saying : " If hungering led to
Paradise, the dogs would enter first." However
that may be, the other day I found a bone, and as
a neighbour's dog came to snatch it away, I jumped
at his throat and growled in Arabic : " Hathi
'adem ti-i-i-i-i ! " ^

Menacingly, he demanded : " Bakam sharate
ha-a-a-a-a ! " ^

Whereupon, showing my teeth, I barked :
"Balf! Balf!"3

Then he ran off, leaving me in peace.

VII

I am old now. I can hardly see ; I can hardly
hear. Like many of my fellow dogs, my barking

^ " This is my bo-o-o-o-ne ! "

* " What did you pay fo-o-o-o-r it ? "

• "A thousand! A thousand!"
13— (2131)

174 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

has lost its force. Soon I shall die and be thrown
over the rocks to decay. Nobody feeds on dead
dogs ; neither vultures, nor ravens, nor jackals,
nor those of my own kind. Worms alone nourish
themselves on our meat and skin. That is the
reason, perhaps, why we are often spoken of as
" a dead dog, good for nothing." ^

* I. Samuel xxiv. 14. II. Samuel ix. 8 ; xvi. 9.

X

CREATURES IN COUNCIL

I

When Allah created the animals, He gathered
them all into one place, and an angel of the
Azizis, seated next to his throne, was commanded
to assign particular regions to them, with meat
specially adapted to their requirements. This
arrangement suited aU the beasts of the field and
the birds of the air very well indeed, with the
single exception of the serpent, who put in a claim
to Adam that he had a right to feed on human
flesh and blood. Adam replied that he must
have a year in which to reflect, and promised that
at the end of this time he would give his answer
at a great congress to which all animals should be
invited.

Whether this, interview took place before or
after Adam's expulsion from Paradise is unknown,
so far back does it date in the history of the world.
But very probably it must be placed after the
Fall, when Adam's wisdom was on the decline.
Otherwise, would he have been so fooHsh as to
commission the mosquito to test the blood of all
living creatures and report thereon ? Naturally,
that wicked insect found that human blood was

175

176 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

best. However, Adam had a friend in the
swallow. Whilst the mosquito was on its way to
the congress, the faithful bird, which, through
its annual visits to the Kaaba, knew man's
religious feelings and sympathised with him,
discreetly followed and, ere the insect reached its
destination, pounced down upon it and nipped off
so large a part of its tongue that its voice became
a sharp and vicious buzz. As the mosquito was
unable to express itself in a comprehensive
manner, the swallow offered its services as inter-
preter, and declared that the report was " Frogs."
And that is the reason why, to this day, serpents
feed on those amphibians.

Such was the principal question decided at the
first animals' congress in Palestine. It was a
long time before a second one was held — not,
indeed, until just before the Deluge, when Noah
was confronted with the problem of the preserva-
tion of species. Century after century passed
without there being any necessity for a fresh
re-union. But at last the day came when the
third congress had to be called, this time by the
creatures themselves, for they wished to discuss
the wrongs which had arisen through man's
ignorance of animal welfare, besides certain other
private questions. The organisers unanimously
agreed that for once man must be excluded from
their councils.

Abu Sliman, the fox, who had gathered more

AT MEROM 177

documents together than anyone else, and who
knew the country better than even man himself,
thought that the best place for the meeting would
be the shrubby marches of El ^Huleh, in the
extreme north of Palestine, where all the delegates
would be able to find good shelter and plenty of
appropriate food. Adam's sons seldom ventured
into the thicket for any length of time, and when
they did they always retired at night time. All
that the delegates would have to be careful of
doing was to keep quiet during the day ; then
their presence would not even be suspected.
El 'Huleh, therefore, was chosen, and Tell-el-Kadi,
the seat of the Judge, and the place where Dan
had lived of old was selected as the exact spot
for the important gathering.

Abu Sliman, in the course of his speech to his
collaborators, went on to say that there was no
need to waste time over discussing the question
of a chairman. Abu Tasba', the lion, had long
been acknowledged to be King of the Beasts, and
though he did not live in Palestine he could no
doubt be found without much difficulty on the
frontiers of Arabia. Let their swiftest messenger,
Abu Tansar, the white-headed vulture, be sent
to offer him the presidency of the Council.

So the King of the Birds ^ flew away in a straight
line across the desert to the jungle of the Euphrates.
Cautiously soaring in big circles above the banks

^ As acknowledged by Solomon (Palestine Folk-lore).

178 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

of the river, he searched and searched until at
last he found the lair of Abu Tasba'. Swooping to
earth, he dehvered the invitation. Abu Tasba'
did not take long to decide ; so great a recognition
of his strength could not meet with a cold refusal ;
he accepted with a roar of delight and announced
his intention of starting for El 'Huleh imme-
diately. Only, Abu Tansar must lend him his
aid as an aerial scout, and enable him to avoid
camps and inhabited places, if he were to reach
his destination quickly and safely.

Meanwhile, Snoonoo, the swift, sped from
village to village and from mountain to mountain,
inviting delegates from all the domestic animals
to the congress, during the sittings of which it
was thoroughly understood no one should be
molested. Food in abundance was held forth
as an inducement to all to come. The marshes of
El 'Huleh — an ideal oasis — were not only full of
juicy plants for the vegetarians, there were large
herds for the carnivorous animals, fish for the
king-fishers and divers, myriads of insects for the
birds, and a multitude of minor animals for the
reptiles.

II

It was a clear moonHght evening when the
congress met — the most favourable time that
could have been chosen, as some of the delegates
would have been quite at a loss on a dark night,
and daylight would have been equally troublesome

v-^^'^. ■'^

<i->
-^

-ANIMAL KINGS 179

to others. The Ghawarneh Bedawin having
retired for the night with their cattle, the members
— previously advised by the soft-footed mouse,
the silently flitting bat and other envoys, to make
as little noise as possible — quietly dropped in one
by one.

Leaning against the bole of a gigantic oak, the
King of Trees, sat Abu Tasba^, the King of Beasts,
with Abu Tansar, the King of Birds, and all his
court perched in the majestic branches — an
arrangement said to be due to Abu Sliman. Abu
Dib, the brown bear of Lebanon, rolled in with
an apology. He explained that, being a citizen
of Djebel-esh-Sheikh, the cold region assigned to
him by the Azizis, he came as an outsider, but he
would retire as soon as possible, as he could not
easily support the heat of El Ghor. Abu Tanmar
the slender leopard, glided in so noiselessly that
no one would have noticed him had it not been
for his spots. Abu Madba*, the lean, striped
hyaena, . came heavily into view, gave a hungry
malicious look at the domestic animals and,
feigning friendship, went to lie down near a fine
ass. Abu Ser'han, the solitary wolf, slinked in at
dusk, looking quite innocent and feeling contented
with all the world, for he had just fed on a lamb
outside the truce boundaries. Abu |Sheeby, the
yellow cheetah, silently followed in his footsteps.
Pricking up his hairy ears, Abu Fahed, the round-
headed lynx, silently took his place, amidst a

180 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

murmur of admiration and sundry remarks regard-
ing his resemblance to a cat, near the grandees of
the quadrupeds. Next came Abu-1-E*hseine, the
jackal, with a very indifferent call, for he was
replete through feeding on the carcass of a buffalo.
In his rear walked the lesser friends : wild cats,
martens, ichneumons and porcupines with clatter-
ing quills, closely followed by hedgehogs, moles,
rats and, last of all, Abu Ghirreh, the circular
badger, resembling, as it crawled forward on its
low legs, a moving cushion. Abu Sliman, the
acting secretary, introduced the domestic animals.
There were strong camels of the 'Hauran and the
mountains of Ephraim, lean ones, too, from the
south of the Dead Sea ; a slender-footed Hajeen
(dromedary), which carried the mail through the
sandy wastes of Palestine ; the fiery horses of the
Bedawin, and a heavy Kedeesh, an animal for
rough work at the mill or on the road ; mules and
donkeys ; cows, oxen and buffaloes ; sheep and
goats. After these had taken their places there
came gazelles and hares from the plains, conies
and ibexes from the cliffs of Moab, and wild boars
from the marshes. Great fruit-eating bats and
other smaller insect-feeders flitted about in the
moonlight. Most of the feathered friends had, as
I have already said, gathered hours before around
Abu Tansar, as with few exceptions, they were
day birds. Thus, perched on the strong branches
next to the great vulture, were eagles, buzzards,

PALESTINE'S ANIMAL KINGDOM 181

harriers, hawks, kites, falcons and owls. Croaking
ravens and crows sat on smaller branches, and so
forth, until, on the topmost boughs of the oak tree,
little robins and titmice fluttered and chirped.
Other trees, too, were occupied by delegates.
On a stately palm was entwined a fine specimen,
with blood-red neck and brownish body, of the
Esculap, the representative of numerous harmless
serpents ; whilst near by was a huge Daboia viper,
representing six venomous species. Nor must
I omit to mention the Sheikh of the Haradin
and the Sheikh of the Chameleons, accompanied
by a green lizard and a house gecko, who were
perched on the walls of an adjoining ruin. Absen-
tees among the 550 specimens of the animal
kingdom of Palestine were very few indeed. The
only really important delegate who could not
come — and he sent a warran to present his excuses
— was the crocodile, who said he did not dare,
for numerous reasons, to leave the swamps of the
Zerka in Sharon.

At last the voice of Abu Tasba' was heard,
whereupon all chattering, chirping and fluttering
ceased.

" Are all the domestic animals here ? " he
roared. " For their presence at this particular
congress is of great importance. I dare say that
some of the poor slaves of mankind have been
unable to leave their stables and enclosures.
However, I am glad to see that we are honoured

182 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

by the presence of Abu Te'hsen, the horse, Abu
Baghel, the mule, Abu Ehmar, the donkey,
Abu Thor, the ox, and Abu Jameel, the camel.
We are pleased, too, to welcome Abu Klabe, the
dog, and Bisabis, the cat — late though they be ! "

Abu Klabe and Bisabis issued into the moon-
light just at that very moment. They had been
quarrelling on their way as to which of the two
was the most useful animal to man.

" Come now, let us get to business," continued
Abu Tasba'. ** Abu Sliman, will you read the first
item on the programme ? "

" Dispute between Abu Madba*, the hyaena,
and Baghel, the old mule," read Abu Sliman
in his most important manner. "In a certain big
field, full of long grass and very useful for hiding
in and searching for food, Baghel was appro-
priating everything to his own use. Now, the
field belongs to everyone. So a delegation,
composed of Abu Tanmar, Abu Ser'han, Abu
Fahed, Abu-1-Ehseine and your humble servant,
was sent to find out by whose permission Baghel
ate most of the grass and spoilt the appearance
of the remainder. Baghel insolently replied that
he acted perfectly within his rights, and that,
when and where we liked, he could show us the
firman he had received from his superior."

" Very good ! " exclaimed Abu Tasba'. " We
must settle this matter without delay. What
have you got to say in your defence, Abu Baghel ? "

A CONVINCING FIRMAN 183

** Exactly what I told the delegation," replied
the old mule, confidently. "It is quite true
that I possess a written firman given me by the
Dispenser of all Good Things, the Owner of the
Universe, and written in very fine and subtle
letters. If it is correct, as Abu Madba* states,
that he is a scholar and can read, let him come
near to me, and, in the presence of the assembly,
prove his ability. I will say no more, save that
Abu Madba' is an old sorcerer who, being unable
to eat grass himself, is full of jealousy and wishes
to see me condemned to death."

"A very straightforward reply," said the Chair-
man. " Very well, show him the firman and let
us get to more serious business."

" As I have no pockets in which to keep the
document," explained Abu Baghel, as the hyaena
approached, " I have hidden it under one of my
hind hoofs."

And with these words he lifted up one of his
hoofs.

" I cannot see anything," said Abu Madba*.

" Didn't I tell you," replied the old mule,
" that the firman is written in very fine characters ?
How can you expect to see it at that distance,
and in such a poor light too ? Draw near and then
you'll be convinced."

The hyaena came nearer.

" Whew ! " exclaimed Baghel, aiming well and
kicking with all his might when he considered his

184 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

adversary was close enough. ** If that doesn't
convince you nothing will ! "

The blow alighted on Abu Madba"s nose, and
sent him rolUng, senseless, a dozen yards away.

Whereupon there arose such a yelling and a
shrieking, such a bellowing and a croaking, such
a grunting and a snorting, such a neighing and a
braying, such a hissing and a whizzing as had
never been heard before at one spot. It seemed
as though the very trees and bushes had joined
in the laughter at the most striking proof of the
accuracy of a firman ever given.

Abu Sliman was the only one who kept his head.
Conscious of the importance of his position as
chief organiser of the congress, and its secretary,
he did his best to call the delegates to order. But
it was some minutes before he could make himself
heard.

" Yawlat, yawlat ! — Children, children ! " he
at last succeeded in saying. ** I beg of you to be
prudent. Man may be about and spoil all our
plans. ... I think we may unanimously decide
that Abu Baghel has fully made out his case.
So we wiU pass to the next question. I have a
very important document, signed by a well-known
delegate, to read to you and would beg you to give
me your most earnest attention."

But it was some time before the hilarity wholly
subsided and there was complete silence. At
last he began to read, as follows: —

ANIMAL PLACE NAMES 185

" Sons of Adam sneer at us, chase us and call
us names. Sometimes they are right but very,
very often they are wrong in their appreciations.
Besides, they are often guilty of ill-treating our
friends, the domestic animals, who so rarely revolt
against them. Who has not heard the story of
* Lail,' — an excellent instance of the ungrateful
manner in which the sons of Adam treat their
most faithful friend the dog ? But others could
tell equally striking stories of cruelty and neglect.
Now, as citizens of Palestine — citizens before
man was created here — we are ready to protest.
But let everyone do it for himself. My purpose
at present is to point out how very much men are
dependent upon us. They require not only our
services but very often our names, to designate
their abodes, properties, hills, springs and so forth.
Here are a few instances in which sites have been
named after us. There are

three for leopards, as Nimrin, etc. ;

three for hyaenas, as Wad-ed Dab 'a, etc. ;

three for camels, as Beit-ej-Jmal, etc. ;

three for boars, as Wad-el-Khanzeer, etc. ;

four for sparrows, as Ain-el-'Asafeer, etc. ;

three for bees, as Khirbet Na'hleh, etc. ;

two for horses, as Nekeb-el-Khale, etc. ;

two for ibexes, as Ain-Jiddy and Wad-el-
Bedoon ;

two for vultures, as 'Ebr-en-Nisr, etc. ;

two for serpents, as Ain-el-Hayeh, etc. ;

186 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

two for flies, as Dair-Dubban, etc. ;

one for the buffalo, as Birket-ej-Jamoos ;

one for the crocodile, as Nahr-et-Tamsa'h ;

two for dogs, as Nahr-el-Kalb, etc. ;

one for the gazelle, as *Ain Ghazaleh ;

one for the wolf, as Khalet-eth-Theeb ;

one for the jackal, as J urn-el- Wawy ;

one for the fox, as Tell-el-Ehseiny ;

one for the badger, as Abu-1-Ghrair ;

one for the donkey, as Beni Ehmar ;

one for the coney, as Khirbet el-Wabar ;

one for the partridge, as *Ain-esh-Shananeer ;
and

one for the fleas, as Nahr Barghut.
There is also Khirbet-el- Assad, the Lion's Ruin.
But there is a difference between this and the
names I have cited. These names all point to
ancient sites which once existed in the vicinity
of their modern representatives, whereas the
name of the lion is generally used as a mere badge.
Humans employed the lion's name as an emblem
of strength ; and his image — graven images being
forbidden — is the only one they will permit.
Thus, we have Uons* images at the Gate of El Kuds,
on the bridge near Lydda, on old temples in the
Hauran, and elsewhere, just as in the days of
Solomon, who had them sculptured on his
throne."!

Abu Tasba* here interrupted the speaker with

» II, Chronicles ix. 18-19.

ANIMAL FABLES 187

the remark that this was all heraldry. But it
was a fact that there was no definite locality known
for lions.

Whereupon Abu Sliman, continuing the dele-
gate's dissertation, read -some old passages
concerning old and young lions. ^

** Looks very much like the Euphrates region,"
remarked Abu Tasba'.

" Then a certain judge named Samson," con-
tinued Abu SUman, ** killed a lion in Philistia with
his staff and took honey from its body." ^

*' Nonsense ! " exclaimed the Chairman. ** Who
ever heard of a lion being killed with a staff, or of
bees building in a carcass ? That writer never
studied nature."

" Once upon a time, too, an Ash Allheem, ^ who
came from Bethel, was kiUed by a lion and left
by the roadside with his ass ; and both beasts
stood by the carcass contemplating it for
hours." *

" This is sheer lunacy," growled Abu Tasba*.
" The writer who recorded that incident had
never seen a hon in his life, otherwise he would
have known that when we kill a warm-blooded
being we carry it away and eat it."

" There is a story of a prophet who was cast
by a king' into a den of lions." ^

" Ah ! I can vouch for that," said the lion.

^ Job iv. 10 ; xxviii. 8. =» Judges xiv. 8.

» Dervish. * I. Kings xiii. 24. ^ Daniel vi. 16.

188 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

" It happened in my own country. Kings always
capture lions."

'* Then there was a young shepherd, David,
in the wilderness of Judaea, who smote a lion and
a bear, and took a lamb out of their mouths." ^

Here both Abu Tasba' and Abu Dib roared and
growled so terribly that Abu SUman, thinking his
last moment had come, shpped away into the
bushes.

" How can I help what has been written ? "
he cried piteously. " I am but your most humble
servant."

But it took some time for the anger of the Hon
and the bear to subside. Both were on their feet
together, loudly protesting against the statements
of holy Scripture. Presuming that they had been
able to live in the arid desert in question, they
would each, they said, have taken a lamb and
gone in opposite directions ; and the shepherd
boy would have had his work cut out to track
them.

The clash of their two voices became so great
at last that Abu Tasba*, in a towering passion,
roared to the bear :

*' Order ! Order ! Abu Dib ! Wait until it is
your turn to speak. . . . Let me say that this
fairy tale is not worth discussing. But I should
like to observe that lions, as a rule, do not care
a scrap for man's opinions and beliefs. Nor do

1 I. Samuel xvii. 24.

STRANGE BIBLE STORIES 189

they choose between beUevers and unbelievers
when they are hungry — it is all one to them
whether their prey believe in the gods of the
land or not." ^

" Permit me to remark," said Abu Dib, timidly,
when the Chairman had sat down, " that perhaps
the scribe did not know the difference between
the Dib and the Thib. Our friend the wolf was
probably meant. Judaea and lambs are certainly
better known to him than they are to us. . . .
As to the tearing to pieces of forty-two children
by two Im-Debbab (she-bears) because they made
fun of the bald head of an old Dervish, ^ J again
protest. Maybe a ravenous wolf would kill
children, but never a bear. We occasionally carry
off a kid or a calf, but never can we take two.
Moreover, I agree with our powerful and respected
brother Abu Tasba* that we do not put forth our
strength especially for man's sake. May I ask
the author of this learned communication whether
humans have recorded the names of the Dib in
their writings ? "

" No," replied Abu Sliman, who had ventured
back to his place. " Neither in their old, nor in
their new lists, do we find them."

On hearing which Abu Dib, with a final growl
of indignation, sat down.

Many of the other delegates heard with satis-
faction that their names were known in the Bible.

1 II. Kings xvii, 25. 2 n. Kings u. 23-24.

14— (2131)

190 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

There was Beth Nimreh ^ standing for leopards ;
Zeboim, 2 as ancient as history, for the hyaena,
who was still busily rubbing his poor bruised nose ;
Zeeb, ^ changed into the modern Thib, for Abu
Serhan's ancestors; Engedi/ where the ibex
still tumbles over the rocks ; besides many
others.

As Abu Shman had by now come to the end of
the document he had been asked to read to the
congress, Abu-1-ETiseine, in his turn, stepped forth
and said that but for himself and the suffering
Abu Madba' the sons of Adam would assuredly
die of pestilence. Were they not instrumental
in clearing away the dead animals which humans
carelessly threw around their habitations ? Instead
of being thankful for this valuable work — and at
the word thankful Abu Sliman sneered, and
murmured cynically, ** Adam's sons do not even
show thankfulness to each other " — they called
them false names, such as Wawy and Abu-1-
Fataiess, the Howler and Father of Carcasses.

** Suppose we strike for a few weeks," con-
cluded the jackal, amidst almost universal mur-
murs of approval, ** and see how they would get
along alone."

And with these words, as the light of the moon
was failing, the first sitting of the congress came
to an end.

1 Numbers xxxii. 36. • Genesis x. 19.

• Judges vii. 25. * Joshua xv. 62.

CAMEL AND HORSE . 191

III

On the following evening it was the domestic
animals' turn to have their say.

"Abu Jameel," said the lion, addressing the
camel, " have you any complaint to make against
Inns ? " 1

" No/' said the camel. "It is true that they
put heavy loads upon my back, but I can easily
carry them. They are rather solicitous of my
welfare than otherwise. They feed me on pre-
pared Kersanne, 2 and, in Rabee, anoint my skin
with oil and sulphur to cure the Jarrab, ^ which
I have contracted from another. Occasionally
they strike me, or pull my jaws with the Karrasat, *
but I take my revenge in the spring, when the
Hadr^ makes me lively. Let any man come too
near me and I dart at him so swiftly that he is
frightened out of his wits. But we are soon good
friends again."

Nor had Abu Ihsane, the bay horse, any com-
plaints to make against his Bedawin masters.
He rather liked the Ghazu, and even should he
fall in battle it was a more dignified death than
the one awaiting his cousin the Kedeesh, who,
after having turned Byarat® in the gardens, or
carried loads which often wounded him, was
abandoned to find a living for himself — a very
difficult matter for one who was not accustomed

* Humans. 2 Vetches. ' Itch.

* Camel bridle. ^ gad temper. * Water wheels.

192 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

to do so from youth, as wild animals are. His
fate is to pine away and die and be devoured by
dogs, jackals and hyaenas.

A general murmur against Inns followed this
communication. But Abu Ihsane continued : —

" I am of the Abeyan race, my silky mane keeps
insects away, my well-furnished tail helps to brush
flies from my body, full of the purest blood,
flowing in protruding veins." (At the mention
of blood all the carnivorous members of the
congress lifted their noses and sniffed the air.)
" I hail from Nejd and Man says that I am of
divine origin. The Angel Gabriel first rode
'Heisoon, the divine courser. El Khadr gallops
above the firmament and produces thunder and
lightning. My white ancestors were dedicated
to the sun, ^ and though the first Hebrew invaders
maimed horses, ^ King Solomon introduced a
great number,^ and was so much astonished at
their excellency that he forgot his prayers the
day he saw them.* The Prophet Mohammed
chose the original Khamsy^ who accompanied
him on his expeditions. Therefore these five,
Abeyan, Saklawy, Julfa, Khalawy, and Marghub,
are acknowledged to be the only true breeds ;
and whoever possesses the one or the other con-
siders himself beyond all riches. On them the
Arab nation went from Mecca to Seville ; through

1 II. Kings xxiii. 11. * Joshua xi. 6. » I. Kings iv. 26.

* Sura xxxviii. 30. ' The Five.

I

THE ARAB HORSE 193

their agency empires have changed hands and
Islam has covered one-third of the world. We
are well kept, as sacred as the sun horses, and no
true Arab will allow us to go into foreign lands.
The Prophet knew the danger of horses getting
into the hands of foreigners, who might become
conquerors like himself. Our home and temple
is all Arabistan. Has anyone been honoured so
much by Inns as our race has been ? Has not the
Prophet, in his enthusiasm, cried: 'The wealth
of this world is suspended from the tuft of hair
which hangs on the forehead of your horses until
Judgment Day ? ' And does not the Bedawin
lover sing : —

" ' Rukb el afrass
Talook el amr§3s
U takerkib el akhr§,ss
Yegla' id-dood min er-R4ss.'^

Though staUions are presented to foreign princes,
the mares are kept at home. Let our race remain
pure and only in Arabia."

Mules and donkeys were quite content with
their lot, and even cows and the patient oxen had
nothing to say. After a day's ploughing with the
oldest and most primitive instrument, they often
had rest on rainy days and were fed all the same.
And with most Fellahin, when thrashing, the old

* " Riding horses.
Slackening bridles.
The tinkling of ear-rings
Drive away care."

194 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

law was observed — not to muzzle them while
treading the sheaves. ^

The faithful dog said Lail had told everything. ^
But he, personally, had nothing to grumble
at.

At this moment a little mouse, whilst intently
listening, rolled over in front of Bisabis.
" Allah ! " exclaimed the cat. " Be careful or
you will be hurt ! " " Thanks,'* replied the mouse.
" Bass aslam minak ! — If only you do me no
harm ! " And with these words it climbed into a
hole out of reach.

" Birds ! " shouted Abu Tansar, who had now
become Chairman, to replace the tired Hon, and
who best understood bird language in the Palestine
vernacular. " Has anybody anything to say ?
Storks, swallows, pelicans, hoopoes, turtles are
all in favour of Beni Adam, as they are considered
almost sacred by them, so let them be quiet."

The griffin vulture was the first to show his
hoary head and said : —

" King Solomon in all his wisdom spoke to
birds and blessed our ancestor by laying hands
on his head, which ever afterwards remained white.
Therefore we cannot speak ill of the human race,
though they hunt us for the sake of our bones to
make Neiy^s. Fortunately, they seldom come
within our reach, so we have seldom need to
deplore a victim."

* Deuteronomy xxi. 4. * See Lail, pp. 153-174.

SERPENTS PERSECUTED 195

Abu Ghrab, the raven, declared they were
persecuted. Inns called them Baine/ so when-
ever they saw Adam's sons they flew away
long before they could reach them even with a
gun.

The red-faced partridge, which Inns call
Maka'hal, though they never use Kohl, complained
that they were treacherously snared at watering-
places, or with the Bairak on the mountains.*
" Not satisfied with having subjugated the fowls,
these greedy sons of Adam seek the small
satisfaction of capturing us for a dinner."

In the name of the Rakta and the Raksha, the
Rabda and the *Hamra, the Barjeel and the
Za'ara (the Daboia), the shining blue-black
'Hanash — the Nahash of the Bible and the serpent
which Moses lifted up in the wilderness — declared
that man had written all kinds of absurdities
regarding them.

" We are falsely accused of being the cause of
Adam's expulsion from Paradise. We are said
to have had legs and are condemned to walk
without them. Every man does his best to kill us,
saying, * II 'Heiyeh wul 'Aseiyeh ! — For the
serpent take the stick ! ' Because one-seventh of
all the serpents in Palestine are venomous, we are
all condemned to death. Naturally we fly for our
lives whenever man is in the vicinity. We ought
to be bred rather than persecuted, for we feed on

1 Unlucky. « I. Samuel xxvi. 20.

196 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

mice, who destroy the crops, and on rats who
break into their barns. However, we do our duty
and yearn not for their gratefulness."
* * * *

When the animals left El 'Huleh to return to
their respective regions they meditated on what
had been revealed at their great congress. Abu
Sliman whispered into Abu-1-E'hseine's ear that,
though many had protested, he thought there
would be no change in the relations between man
and the beasts. Adam's sons would continue to be
kind or brutal as the case might be. ** We shall
have to take our chance," he declared, "and find
a living as best we can in this Immovable East. "

XI

THE LADY OF HER BRETHREN

As I sat at the door of a little coffee-house in the
main street of Lydda, sipping my Moka and
drawing at the sweet-scented tombak through a
bubbling narghile, Sit-Ikhwitha, with that haughty
bearing which I knew so well, came along upon her
horse. It was years since I had seen the *' Lady
of her Brethren," but I recognised her at once and
saw that she still retained her old authority. The
clatter of her horse's hoofs on the loose stones and
the musical tinkling of the gold coins on her Burka, ^
or half-veil, was the signal for the hushing of
conversation among the groups of squatting coffee-
drinkers. Deferential looks met her imperious
gaze. Salutations denoting profound respect
(some would have called it fear) greeted her to
right and left, making her slow and stately ride
through the town, which was built by the tribe of
Benjamin, a veritable triumphal march.

But, though I knew Sit-Ikhwitha and her
history well, the ** Lady of her Brethren " passed
me by unnoticed. Years of absence from the

1 Possibly the veil which was given to Sarah on the borders of
Egypt because, as a northerner, she had none. Abimelech
said unto Sarah : " Behold I have given thy brother a thousand
pieces of silver : behold, he is to thee a covering of the eyes, unto
all that are with thee, and with all other : thus she was reproved."
— Genesis xx. 16.

197

198 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

little Christian and Moslem town had turned me
into a stranger, unworthy even of a passing
glance. Apart from looking a little older than
when I had last seen her, Sit-Ikhwitha alone had
remained unchanged.

" The Lady of her Brethren " was a very
dark-complexioned Egyptian, with thick lips,
strong jaws and a set of teeth (in spite of her fairly
advanced age) as white as the snows of Hermon.
Though certainly not what you would call a pretty
woman, she was far from being an ugly one. Hers
was the beauty of perfect health and superb
physical strength rather than that of form and
expression. She was over five feet and a half in
height, and she sat astride her Arab thoroughbred
like a man, and with all a man's assurance. Indeed
at a distance, you might easily have mistaken her
for one, had it not been for her characteristic
Egyptian dress. The lower part of her face
was hidden by her Burka, lined with heavy gold
coins in order to hold the veil down. Her shirt
(the only piece of clothing she wore at home,
besides the black silken head-veil which she threw
over her head and shoulders) was dark blue, and
over this she had a black and white silk girdle, a
brown and white striped silk caftan, or long robe
open in front from the top to the bottom, and,
finally on the top of these various articles of cloth-
ing, a black mantle, which, when astride the
broad saddle of her horse, she threw over her

SIT-IKHWITHA 199

knees. Broad silver bracelets ornamented her
arms, which were bare, as the broad sleeves of
her cloak only covered them when they were
hanging down ; and a pair of yellow sheep-skin
boots completed her out-door costume.

Yes, the " Lady of her Brethren " was un-
doubtedly unchanged, both in dress and in manner.
I could still see her, as of old, speaking in a loud
voice and gesticulating, so that the coins on her
Burka, striking each other, kept up a continual
tinkle. And though, as a rule, she observed the
Moslem custom of keeping her face covered, I
could still imagine her, in the fire of conversation
among men, throwing back her veil and, with a
commanding expression on her energetic face and
a blow with her fist on her knee, exclaiming :
" Wallah ! Awarikum ya kohm el hamleen !
— By God ! I will show you, band of cowards ! "

The story of this remarkable woman is inti-
mately connected with the Egyptian conquest of
Palestine, and in relating it we must go back to
the days of Mehemet Ali. This distinguished man,
an Albanian by birth, was an officer in the Turkish
army at the time that it was opposing Bonaparte's
Egyptian campaign. Three years after the French
were expelled from Egypt he made his mark and
was placed at the head of an army corps. Fol-
lowing with interest the progress of Napoleon I,
he may be said to have modelled his career on

200 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

that of the great Corsican. He rose to the rank of
Pasha of Cairo, and, as all who read history know,
rid the Pashas of the domination of the Mama-
lukes. ^ Having become sole master of Egypt,
Mehemet All's ambition grew and, supported by
several old Bonapartist ofi&cers, he marched his
army against his legitimate sovereign, the Sultan
of Turkey. The Egyptians, under the command
of his adopted son Ibrahim Pasha, crossed the
Syrian frontier in 1831. The frightened Fel-
lahin, led by their great Sheikhs Muhammad el-
Misleh, Ethman el-Laham, Mustapha Abu-Ghosh
and others, resisted. But what could their undis-
ciplined bands do against a well-trained modem
army ? When Ibrahim Pasha, whose name in
Palestine has remained synonymous to " hero,"
** great man," and so forth, had conquered the
country and taken the fortress of Acca (St.
Jean d'Acre), which had even successfully resisted
Bonaparte, he established conscription, and in
order to escape military service thousands of young
Fellahin courageously mutilated themselves, some
by pulling out the right eye, or poisoning it, to
prevent them aiming, others by coldly cutting
off the right thumb, to make it impossible for them
to pull the cock of a gun. But Ibrahim was

1 On May 1st, 1811, Mehemet Ali invited this formidable
cavalry force to come in full dress to the Citadel of Cairo, and,
on their arrival, ordered his Albanian soldiers, whom he had hid
behind the walls, to massacre them to a man. With the exception
of Amin Bey, who is said to have succeeded in escaping on his
horse, they were all shot down by the musketry.

EGYPTIAN COLONIES 201

not the man to be frustrated. " These boys are
true heroes/' he said. " They are more cour-
ageous than my own Egyptians. I shall enroll
them in my service." And so he created " one-
eyed squadrons " and " thumbless battalions."

As in the case of every invading army, bands of
merchants, hawkers and others followed in the
rear of Ibrahim Pasha's troops. And thus to-day
we find entire villages of Egyptians all along the
plains of the Philistines, from the river of Egypt to
Jaffa, — descendants of those of 1831, and who
continue unmixed. A Fellah of Palestine will
never consent to give his pure-bred Palestine
daughter to an Egyptian. " Ehna Fellahin u
humme Masriean ! — We are Fellahin and they
are Egyptians ! " he will say, with a sneer, on
receiving such a proposal. The differences between
the two races are too great to make inter-marriages
possible. The Egyptians have semi-Ethiopian
features, — thicker, slightly flattened noses, and
are of a much darker colour. The FeUaha has a
white head-veil, but the face is bare and her blue
shirt is of a Ughter colour than the dark-blue one
of the Egyptian. The Egyptian wears the Burka,
hanging down from the forehead, covering the
nose, mouth, and upper part of the cheeks,
chin and neck, but leaving the eyes and forehead
free.

Now, in the service of Ibrahim Pasha were
several young soldiers of one family, and with

202 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

them their parents and an only daughter. The
girl, Nasra, had been brought up among boys,
possessed many boyish characteristics, and, as her
name indicated, was destined to be " victorious."
Remarkably self-willed, she commanded her
brothers every bit as much as her parents did,
and consequently came to be known by those of
her race as Sit-Ikhwitha, — the ** Lady of her
Brethren."

As the Egyptian soldiers camped and decamped
on the long way through the desert from Egypt
to Palestine and all along the hostile country,
Nasra' s masculine and authoritative character
became still more pronounced. She used to
accompany the horsemen when they went to water
their horses and to execute commissions for which
she was Hberally rewarded. Always awake when-
ever a Bedawi attack was expected, she did not
hesitate even to seize a spare rifle and rush towards
the enemy. More than once had she largely con-
tributed towards the saving of lives and on at
least two occasions she had been instrumental in
rescuing the treasure of war, which was kept
in a wooden safe in the midst of the camp. In
recognition of these services, Nasra had received
the compliments of the commanding officer and
thus had become known to aU. The officers
especially had cast glances in the direction of the
courageous, well-developed, dark-eyed girl of
fifteen. One of them, bolder than the rest,

A COURAGEOUS GIRL 203

ventured, one day, on flirting with her. But he
never tried again.

" How dare you ! " cried Nasra. " Ya ebn
el Kalb ! Oh ! son of a dog ! . . . Shall I
denounce you ? "

The oflicer, fearing for his life, since such
mistakes are often punished by death, implored
for pardon.

" I meant not any dishonesty," he cried.
" Imshi doughri ! Walk straight, and no one will
insult you."

The incident leaked out and henceforth Nasra
could move about the camp without being
molested, either by deed or by word or even by a
look. This was one of her earliest victories, and
it led her not only to a position of greater authority
but, later, to wealth.

Nasra, the ** Victorious," the " Lady of her
Brethren," was ambitious. She had dreams of
becoming rich and a commander of men. Many
a time, during the quiet hours of the night, whilst
everyone in the camp, save the sentinels, was deep
in slumber, had she let her thoughts revolve
around the future. Young in years, she was old
in experience and cupidity. One night, shortly
after the last occasion on which her vigilance had
resulted in the saving of the war-chest, temptation
stole upon her. How considerable, she thought,
must be the treasure of war and how powerful would
be the person who possessed such wealth as that !

204 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Ah ! if only she could say that it was hers ! . . .
But, in a sense, was it not hers ? — since it had more
than once been rescued from the hands of the
enemy through her foresight and bravery ? Then
a plan struck her.

She chose the time for the carrying out of her
daring project well. The army had moved out
of the dangerous Bedawi zone and was encamped
just off Sar'ah, the Zorah of the Bible, ^ near the
mountains of Judah. Officers and soldiers felt
that they had no longer much to fear from the
enemy ; they could afford, now, to relax their
attention a little. The camp fires had died out
and the moon had set behind the blue waters of
the Mediterranean. A slight east wind was blow-
ing and in the stillness of the night the fields of
Dura murmured incessantly. It was a peculiar
sound, caused by the striking together of the heavy
ears of the Syrian millet, resembhng Indian corn,
and the rubbing together of the plants' broad
leaves, and it bore a certain likeness to that of
men stealthily approaching the camp. Nasra,
who had made aU her preparations, aroused the
camp and declared that she had distinctly heard,
in a certain direction, the sound of the enemy's
footsteps. Officers and men went in pursuit
of the phantom Bedawin, but after a time the
fields of Dura were declared to be the cause of the
false alarm, and, laughing over their empty fears,

* Joshua xix. 41.

ISRAELITIC TOMB-CAVES 205

they returned to the camp. Soon everyone, save
Nasra and her brothers, who were acting as senti-
nels that night around the treasure of war, and
whom she had easily persuaded to become her
accomplices, was once more deep in slumber.
Slipping out of her tent into the darkness, the
'* Lady of her Brethren " drew near to the coveted
treasure and had the safe quietly carried into a
tomb cave on the slopes of a neighbouring hill. ^
Then, when she and her accomplices had returned
to the camp and had again taken their places,
she gave the alarm for the second time. Slightly
striking one of her brothers, who fell, as though
stunned, to the ground, she cried out, like Delilah
did in the case of Samson i^ " El-kohm —
'aleina ! Jai ya naas jai ! — The enemy are
upon us ! Come here, oh people ! " The sol-
diers rushed out of their tents towards the safe,
but the treasure was gone and the sentinel appa-
rently lifeless. With Nasra at their head, they
rushed into the darkness in the direction of Wady-
Ali, whence she declared she had seen the enemy
carrying off the war-chest. Others went in the

^ These tomb -caves date from the days of the IsraeUtes and
are hewn out in the slopes of the hills. The natives of the district
avoid them, or rather did so in the days to which this narrative
applies. Of recent years they have all been visited by searchers
after antiquities, and tombs which had been unviolated for thou-
sands of years have now been opened in search of spoil. Sit-
Ikhwitha well knew that such a tomb as she had chosen would be
avoided by the superstitious soldiers of Ibrahim Pasha's army.

2 " The Philistines be upon thee, Samson," — Judges xvi.
9, 12, 14 and 20.

IS— (al3l)

206 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

direction of Yalo (Ajalon). But by daybreak
the futile pursuit was abandoned.

Thus did the " Lady of her Brethren," who
continued for several months longer in the rear
of the Egyptian army, lay the foundations of her
fortune. She finally settled down in Lydda, the
principal town of the plain, and there, with her
parents, went in for commerce. This gave her
an opportunity of rising to the position to which
she aspired. Out of the hidden safe in the
Israelitic tomb, known to her and her brothers
only, she obtained money, with which she bought,
first a small house, and then a field. Wisely, she
abstained from suddenly becoming rich. But as
the years went by her wealth and power gradu-
ally increased, and when I first came to know
her she was the owner of houses and lands all
over Lydda and district.

When the brothers of Sit-Ikhwitha had con-
cluded their mihtary service in the Egyptian army
and Ibrahim Pasha, in 1841, had withdrawn his
troops from Palestine, they also remained in
Lydda and, under her sway, became influential
people. She married an Egyptian and had chil-
dren. But the very names of her husband, off-
spring and relatives were unknown to the general
pubhc. They were always spoken of as the " hus-
band of Sit-Ikhwitha," the " son of Sit-Ikhwitha,"
the " brother of Sit-Ikhwitha " — she alone counted

A MODERN DEBORAH 207

in Lydda and district. As with Deborah and the
children of Israel, ideas contrary to her were
never uttered. ^ Even the Governor of Lydda, on
meeting her riding on her thoroughbred, as on the
day when I saw her passing through the main
street of the town, had to greet her reverently and
often to obey her if, imperiously, she claimed
this or that favour.

* Judges V. 7.

XII

TAX-GATHERING IN NIMRIN

Nablus, in Samaria, — the Roman Neapolis and,
in part at least, the ancient Shechem, — is too
well known to need more than a brief reference to
its well-built houses, its fine situation and its fair
circle of gardens. Lying between the twin moun-
tains Ebal and Gerizim (on which the few remaining
Samaritan Jews — some 150 in all and the smallest
religious sect in the world — possess an old temple),
the town is exceptionally well watered and the
seat of a Pashalic. In the early eighties of the
last century the Pasha's authority extended to the
left shore of the Jordan valley, where the turbulent
Bedawin tribes congregated, and even as far as the
Dead Sea. But his jurisdiction was merely nomi-
nal and he found it not at all easy to levy taxes.
In those days the tax-gatherers generally set
forth to claim their due with the Pasha himself
and a strong escort of soldiers.

Now, at the time of my story, Khurshud Pasha
had in vain asked for the taxes of the Aduan, the
wildest tribe in Nimrin. So he decided to go him-
self and gather what he could. Advised of his
visit. Sheikh Ali el-Thiab, accompanied by two
hundred Bedawin horsemen, royally came to the
Forth of Jordan to meet the government official.
Seeing this formidable body and realising that his
hundred soldiers were at its mercy, Khurshud

208

A NOISY RECEPTION 209

asha immediately became extremely polite, —
and his politeness tended to increase rather than
decrease when Sheikh AU ordered his warriors
to gallop up and down in front of the visitor and
fire salutes in his honour. The Bedawin fired
their guns so near that the sparks almost flew
into the Pasha's face and so long did they con-
tinue that at last the official begged Ali to order
them to cease. But the Sheikh, as he called out
to his personal attendants ** to receive and dis-
mount the horseman — ' Howlu il Khayal ! " —
assured his guest that they were so honoured by
his visit that really they could not cease firing
for joy. So, amidst the continuous discharge of
firearms, Khurshud Pasha entered Ali's big black
hair tent, all lined with silk from the market of
Damascus, and sat down on the silken cushions
which had been spread for him on the home-made
many-coloured carpet of long sheep's wool. He
tried to speak but could not make himself heard
because of the din. Coffee was prepared and
ceremoniously handed to the honoured visitor,
and all the time the firing continued, both in and
outside the tent. At last, boiling over with
indignation, but without showing it too much, the
Pasha hurriedly drank his coffee and started off
again, accompanied by Ali's noisy followers until,
just before nightfall, he had safely reached the
Jordan. The fierce Bedawin then wished him
" God's protection — Fi 'Haffad Allah ! " — and

210 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

galloped off into the gathering darkness, still
discharging their carabines, pistols and flint-lock
rifles and howling with joy.

For some time after this episode the Aduan could
do without visiting the towns. But they require
more than wheat and meat, which is plentiful
in their camps especially after the harvest. By
two or three minor Ghazu, they had obtained a few
camels and tents, but that was about all. They
badly needed to renew their clothes and boots
at the only market accessible to them, — that at
Nablus. So Ali el-Thiab and his warriors were
very glad when Khurshud Pasha invited them to
return his visit and bring a few taxes with them.
The Bedawi chief promptly seized the opportunity
and started for Nablus with two hundred and fifty
horsemen, most of them fully equipped. But the
Shaale (black mantles) of many of them were much
the worse for wear ; their flowing head-cloths
(Kafiye) would hardly have been decent but for
the very nice home-made 'Agaal, or head-cords,
which, tressed by their own women of camel's
heiir, held the Kafiy6 in place ; their white shirts
were in the poorest condition ; whilst their shoes
and boots — in which every Bedawi Khayal (horse-
man) takes a pride — were in nearly every case
quite worn out. Their weapons, however, were
in proper order ; — trust the Aduan for that !
Muskets, pistols, swords and lances glittered in
the morning sun as they approached the Jordan.

"GOD WILL PROVIDE" 211

What matter if their clothes were shabby so long
as their arms were bright and ready to their
hand ? They would soon, they told themselves,
be in the bazaar at Nablus, where silk, sheeting,
red and yellow boots, and everything for the
renewal of a dilapidated wardrobe could be had
by paying for it. It is true that at that moment
they were without money with which to buy all the
fine Damascus wares they would see. But were
there no money-lenders, willing to advance money
at fifty or a hundred per cent. ? — A Bedawi will
put his hand to any bond when he is in need of
ready cash ; for he is a firm beUever that when
the harvest comes " God will provide, — Bif ridge
Allah ! " — FiUed with this spirit, and thinking of the
precious things they would buy, a group of AU's
men began to sing an Aduan war song, beginning : —

" Ya Muhur, la alweek leyaat
Yohm il Khail il 'arak
Wayohm naquel el-mazareek
In maalat il-ma'aref."^

The last verse had no sooner been sung than
another group, still more enthusiastic and full of
confidence in its might, continued: —

" Bi alfain wuUa thalathe
Min khaf il'Arab yelamlam
Fi Shoor wuUa Khabathe."^

* " My foal, I'll twist you round and round,

^^en all horses are engaged in battle ;

On the day when lances are borne

And manes are wildly flying."
2 " Two or three thousand are grouped ;

The Arabs have gathered.

Is it for war, or trickery ? "

212 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

On hearing of their approaching arrival, Khur-
shud Pasha made stables ready for the horses
of the Shiukh (chiefs) ; those of the others were
camped in the oUve yards around the walls of the
town. By no means at his ease, owing to the
number of his guests and their warlike appearance,
he made a point of receiving Ah el-Thiab with
great cordiality, and of treating his men right
royally. Sheep and lambs were butchered without
end. Nor was Ali behindhand as regards courtesy,
— he had brought presents with him for the Pasha :
a beautiful young horse of the famous K'hailet
pedigree and a fine camel. The Aduan were well
contented with the reception accorded them and
soon the streets of Nablus were animated with
purchasers and the noise of their trailing arms and
huge blood-red ironed boots, with blue tassels
dangling from the tops, as they tramped over the
uneven pavement. Coffee-houses became filled
with moka-sipping Bedawin ; Jews and business-
men were everywhere astir, writing bills for the
money to be advanced to the eager-eyed sons of
the desert, who, on seeing the gold coin brought
out of the safes, would have agreed to any
percentage.

When the money had been received and the
deeds had been stored away, the Harat-el-'Atareen,
the Apothecaries' or Perfumers' Street, and the
Harat-el-Khawajaat, the Drapers' Street, were
especially crowded with customers. Large

BEDAWIN PRODIGALITY 213

quantities of perfumery were bought for themselves
and their wives at home. The narrow streets
rang with the voices of the shopkeepers, caUing
to the passers-by that everything was better and
cheaper than at their neighbours' rival establish-
ments. In the Harat-el-Halawy, or Sweetmeat
Street, a crowd of Bedawin waited to be served
whilst the shopkeepers with enormous knives
cut big slices of Halawy, a sweetmeat made of
sesame meal, sesame oil and honey. Long had
these sugar-loving children of the East been
deprived of such luxuries.

In brief, during their three days' sojourn in
Nablus, there was hardly a man who did not
spend from £5 to £6 on his own body and nearly
as much for his family at home. The two who
spent the least were Sheikh Ali el-Thiab and his
cousin Gublan, — he who had a great scar on his
face, the result of a spear wound received in
battle ; Ali and Gublan were saved the trouble
of either loosening their purse-strings or signin^^
bonds by the liberal-handed Pasha, who heaped
upon them fine silken gowns, new mantles,
head-dresses of silk, red boots and that choice
perfumery of Arabia which has been celebrated
ever since the days of the Ishmaelites^ and the
children of Israel. ^

At the close of the third day and whilst the
bazaar was still thronged with purchasers, a

^ Genesis xxxvii. 25. * Exodus xxxv. 28.

214 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Bedawi could be heard going round the streets
" singing the retreat " : —

" Quees gabel taghees
Walla linafsak il gaise
B'aad el farak."i

enigmatic words to all but the Beda\\an. For,
unexpectedly, early the next morning, after a
hasty farewell and^ promise to come again soon,
the Aduan were in the saddle and on the way back
to their wild country. Passing over the Plain of
Salem, where Abraham and Melchizedek met, ^
these children of the East unconsciously copied
their forerunners by feeding their horses on, and
consuming themselves, whatever they could find
on their way.^ They descended the Wad-Faria
till they came to El Ghor, over which they easily
passed ; then, in groups of thirty to forty, they
broke into song, as though returning from a
victorious expedition. Some were singing: —

" Barudna daraj-daraj
Wal-khail mafateeh el Faraj
Barudna Shara 'il dareeb
Walli yaseebo ma yateeb."*

1 " Give full measure before you start ;
Don't be stingy
At the hour of separation."

* Genesis xiv. 18. ' Cf. Judges vi. 3-4.

* " Our fire-arms we carry with us afar ;
Our horses are the keys to plenty ;
Our powder is law to the victim.
Whoever is hit never rises."

A TURKISH TRAP 215

Others were chanting such love songs as this: —

" Ma zainatin gharbi-1 Fareek
Ya 'Halali soud 'eyounha
La fout rum'hi wa-1 Farass.
Ma zini hum ya 'tuba.''^

How glad the Fellahin were when the excited horde
had passed over their lands, leaving at least the
live-stock untouched !

Thus, in triumph, did the Aduan return from
Nablus to their far-away camp, where the women,
in expectation of the fine garments that they knew
were being brought for them, were waiting to
receive them with songs and ululations.

The only person who did not feel satisfied was
Khurshud Pasha. It was not the loss of his
taxes that troubled him so much as the feeling that
AU el-Thiab had been playing with him. His
pride was sorely wounded. So he set to work
to plan his revenge. But, as becomes a serious son
of Islam, he determined to be in no hurry. Indeed,
friendship was re-estabhshed between the two
chiefs, and Khurshud Pasha even went so far as to
let the taxes go, until, at last, Ali el-Thiab was
wholly re-assured. It was then, some two years
later, that Khurshud Pasha once more invited Ali
to honour him with a second visit. At the same
time he quietly distributed a regiment of Turkish
cavalry in the surrounding villages.

^ " There is none hke her (for beauty) west of our tribe.
What a dehght those black eyes !
If I were to offer my spear and my mare,
I'm afraid they'd not give her (in return)."

216 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

When the Aduan came once more to taste the
joys of Nablus they were three hundred strong.
" The more the merrier/* said Khurshud Pasha
to himself, smiHng in his beard. And as he gave a
brotherly welcome to Ali el-Thiab, he explained
that Nablus was too narrow to accommodate so
many guests. Besides, their beautiful horses
could be stabled under much better conditions
if their owners were quartered in the neighbouring
villages. Ali at once consented to this arrange-
ment, which was so evidently made with an idea
of contributing to their comfort. But no sooner
were the Bedawin installed around the town, with
their arms deposited behind their horses, than,
at a given signal, the Pasha's soldiers issued from
their hiding-places and captured them to a man.
Khurshud then threw down the mask and told the
haughty Ali el-Thiab of the fate which awaited
him.

" I shall have you and your fellow Shiukh
(chiefs) taken to Acca to gaol," he said, " and
with a similar fantazia to that with which you
greeted me on a certain memorable occasion.
Your followers shall go in fetters to Damascus
accompanied by your horses, with which I will
later decide what is to be done."

Ali el-Thiab, already a man of about fifty-five
and accustomed since boyhood to a free open-air
life, took very badly to prison. He lived, however,
for two years more, when the redeeming Fin j an

HUMILIATED BEDAWIN 217

'Kahwy, the coffee-cup, mysteriously put an end
to his existence.

Meanwhile, Khurshud Pasha had inflicted upon
All's followers the cruellest of all punishments.
Their pure-bred Arab steeds — animals of the
K'hailane, 'Aheyane, K'hailet-el-*Ajouss and other
celebrated pedigrees — were sold in the market at
Damascus for such vile prices as £10 to £20, and
afterwards, in the presence of their fettered owners,
put to the plough. There is no greater disgrace
than this to a Bedawi, who will refuse to part
with his horse under many hundreds of pounds.
What indeed is a Bedawi without his horse or his
mare, which in time of war can appear and disappear
** swifter than eagles ? " ^

* Jeremiah iv. 13.

XIII

THE WOOING OF SABHA

I

Abd er-Rahman el-Helal, who lived in the
village of Abu-Dis, on the borders of the desert,
but quite near Bethany, was one of the wealthiest
men of his community and as such could afford
the luxury of having two wives. Not that he
cared very much for more than one. A special
reason had prompted him to take a second spouse,
Farha, a strong Bethlehem Moslem. His first
wife, Kadriye, a near relative from the village of
Bethany, had borne him no living children. And
are not children, together with riches, the best of
earthly goods, — especially children who can say
" Praise to Allah ! " and perpetuate His glory ?
But Farha's married life, unfortunately, was
short : she died after five years, leaving Abd
er-Rahman almost in the same position as before
their union, for she left him only two daughters,
Sabha and Alia. He loved them dearly, but all
the same longed for a son and heir.

Sabha and Alia had a sorry childhood. They
may be said to have grown up hke orphans. Their
stepmother almost hated them for taking away a
part of the affection of their father. Luckily
for them, Kadriye soon had a son, who, since he

218

A HARSH STEPMOTHER 219

was born in the Spring when the father was absent
on a pilgrimage to Naby-Moosa (the tomb of Moses)
in the direction of the Dead Sea, received the name
of Moosa. Great was Abd er-Rahman's joy, and
fervently did he offer up thanks to the Prophet
Moses for answering his prayer for a hving son.
Two years later, Kadriye presented him with a
second boy, whom they called Ehsein. Finally
came a daughter Hasna. Sabha and Aha were
as glad as if the children were their full brothers
and sisters, and very useful they made themselves
in the house, rocking the babies and carrying them
about when Kadriye was busy elsewhere. Yet
their stepmother, who continued to regard them
as intruders, did not always treat them with
kindness. The oldest of clothes were good enough
for them, whilst their ornaments were limited to a
few coloured beads on their head-dresses and some
paltry silver coins dangling from their coral
necklaces. Often, as the boys and Uttle Hasna
grew older, did the girls feel their loneliness, —
the injustice of the treatment meted out to them,
and often did they cry for their mother, until,
at last, the Bethlehem relatives claimed them.
It was then that Abd er-Rahman allowed Alia to
go and stay with her grandmother and sent Sabha
into the fields to look after the goats and sheep.
Sabha quickly developed into an exceedingly
pretty lass. Her mother having been a Bethle-
hemite, her skin was much whiter than that of the

220 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Abu-Dis girls. In other ways, too, — the result,
perhaps, of her healthy, open-air life — she was
more attractive than they, so that when about
fourteen she had already more than one admirer.
But none could tell her openly of his admiration,
or declare his love, as this is contrary to custom
among Eastern lovers. Besides, she was away all
day long with the animals, and on coming home in
the evening, or before she left in the morning, her
stepmother always had plenty of work in store for
her. She had to milk the goats ; sometimes, early in
the morning, to sweep the courts and fetch water
from the well, some distance away from the vil-
lage ; whilst during the day, when following the
herds, there was the wool to spin. In short, she
was busy all the time, but never had a para to call
her own. How she wished she could earn some-
thing and buy her own clothes, or at least some
silk to embroider her head-veil, — how she longed
for rings for her fingers and coins with which to
adorn her head ! Ah ! she often thought, if
only she could go to Jerusalem with the other
girls to carry milk and eggs to the market. She
would soon have some money then. Besides, it
was no longer decent to let a big girl out day after
day roaming about the mountains. But her
stepmother Kadriy6 did not yet want her son
Moosa to go among the rocks and be in danger
from serpents and wild animals, though the father
hinted more than once that the children had better

A WANDERING BARD 221

change their work. Let the boy now become
the shepherd and the girl sell the produce at the
market.

II

Among Sabha's admirers was one Hassan Saleh,
a fine young fellow, who had met her sometimes
as he led out his donkeys and cows to the fields
and fancied her as his wife. But as his father
was not on good terms with the El-Helal family
and would not have been able to pay the dowry,
he had been content to let his fancy remain a
youth's dream.

One December evening, when driving home his
herds in the falling snow, and whilst everybody
was hurrying to the village, he saw an old man
on a white mare coming towards him and at once
recognised Said el-Ma 'ati, with his one-stringed
fiddle protruding from his saddle-bag. This old
wandering bard was well known all over southern
Palestine ; everyone was dehghted to see and hear
him. After Hassan had bidden him " Peace,"
and the usual compUments had been exchanged.
Said told him that he was going that evening to
Abd er-Rahman's house. There would be a goodly
company of villagers. Could he, too, not come arid
Hsten ? . . . Hassan hesitated to accept the invi-
tation. Would he be welcome under Abd er-Rah-
man's roof ? Did not his father belong to the
adverse party ? . . . Said el-Ma ^ati patiently
Hstened to his scruples and smiled in his usual

l6— (3131)

222 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

dry, knowing manner. Then he proceeded to
set all objections on one side. What had youth,
he asked in turn, to do with feuds ? When he
was young he had had no thoughts for anything
save song and music and love, and, old though he
was, he still remained faithful to the Muse and his
fiddle . . . Hassan passed on his way undecided.
But on reaching home the thought of Sabha's
eyes turned the balance. After supper he slipped
out of the house, hurried through the snow to Abd
er-Rahman's, and quietly sat down among the
guests, just as the bard was preparing his fiddle
by warming the sheep's tail skin which covered
the body of the instrument and was passing some
resin over his bow.

Said el-Ma 'ati had not only amused men,
women, and children of more than one generation
by repeating his interminable stories of ^Antar, of
the Zeinati and Abu Zeid, — stories of war and
the chase, — he had kindled flames in more than
one breast as he sang of lovers dying for dark-
eyed Bedawiye, sighing and wailing as though he
himself was the lover, and imitating joyous or
sorrowful faces as the tale ran on. Many a happy
evening had people spent with him, sitting silently
in the low-roofed rooms and patiently bearing the
smoke which rose from the wood fire at which
from time to time the bard warmed his one-stringed
fiddle. Everybody loved Said, his fiddle and his
mare, — three companions who had grown old

THREE INSEPARABLE FRIENDS 223

together, and, moreover, were fast showing signs
of their years. As a matter of fact, both Said
and his mare Rababy looked rather underfed,
or perhaps it was that they never put on flesh
through much roaming about. The mare had the
same elongated face as her master ; her scanty
beard was modelled on Said's ; her dry cheeks
resembled his ; and, as her large and intelligent
eyes followed her master's movements, there was a
sarcastic twitch about her lips which gave one the
impression that she knew he had some good story
in store to tell. Some thought that she sometimes
moved her fore-feet in imitation of a bow and fiddle.
However that may be, there is no doubt about
this, that as they went slowly up hill and down dale
together they sought to read each other's wishes.
When the hill was too steep, Said would dismount
and teU her the stories which he was to repeat
at their next stopping-place. It made the way
seem less long to her and at the same time he
rehearsed his role. ** Are you thirsty, Rababy ? "
he would ask her when they approached water,
and gently he would lead her to the wayside
spring. Most of the time the bridle was hanging
from the knob, as he feared he might hurt her old
mouth by too hard a pull. Rababy, his fiddle,
Rababy, his mare, and himself were three insepar-
able friends. His mare had carried him during a
great part of his life and his Rababy had been the
means of him gaining a livelihood by fiddling, so

224 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

when, sometimes, he paused in his song and set the
fiddle aside, to hear the approbation of his hearers,
he would wittily remark, " Rababy is hungry and
wants food." The listeners never knew whether
he meant the real Rababy which wanted warm-
ing, whether it was time that Rababy the mare
had her feed of barley, to be ready for next
day's ride, or whether Said himself required a
strengthening cup of coffee. However, everyone
received his or her share. Wood was piled on the
hearth to warm the fiddle, Rababy the mare
received a good portion of barley, and coffee was
prepared with the necessary ceremonial and
handed to the bard and the company before he
continued his poem, which, if particularly inter-
esting, was rewarded by an extra Majidi from some
generous hearer. And as the silver coin rolled
towards Said he would skilfully introduce the name
of the donor into his song and compHment him
on his generosity, — an impromptu which
invariably brought fresh gifts.

Snow had continued to fall as thickly as ever,
and intense cold reigned over the whole district.
The hsteners at Abd er-Rahman's wrapped them-
selves more closely in their striped Abbas and the
chattering women-folk, in spite of the heat of the
room, snuggled together. Hassan waited for
every new impression produced by Said's song
to look in the direction of Sabha and try to read
her thoughts. In the general movement his

AN ORIENTAL BEAUTY 225

assiduity in seeking her eyes passed unobserved by
all save the girl herself — and perhaps another.
Sabha noted with pleasure that at least one person
present was sympathetic towards her. Did Said
also detect his secret ? Or was it merely a coinci-
dence that when he once more took up his fiddle
and began to entertain the company with a new
composition he sang of love and its trials ?

Said's touching story, which he opened with a
wailing " Ah ! Ah ! " and a few particularly
plaintive notes on his Rababy, was that of the
son of a Sheikh who became enamoured with the
daughter of a rival chief. The young man was
much struck by the exquisite beauty of the Beda-
wiye. Her dances were such that the passer-by
had to stand still through sheer admiration. Her
black curls pushed forth below her veil hke thyme
bushes. The long veil which enframed her full-
moon face was all embroidered by her own dex-
terous fingers with red and green silk, and all around
the brim dangled silk tassels of her own making.
Her walk was Hke that of a young foal, and her
long neck resembled a young camel's ; her bright
black eyes were often likened to those of the
gazelle. The perfect brows of her eyes were
painted with kohl. Her looks were more burning
than fire sparks, and looked like arrows ready to
dart from the black bows above them and fly
at their victim. Her well-proportioned body,
thin as a lance, was ornamented with a pair of

226 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

pomegranates from Damascus, and when she hfted
her hands to shade her eyes and look whence her
love was coming, tears like rivers would flow
from the dull eyes of the enamoured passer-by,
and the golden henna on her nails would dazzle
many, — to say nothing of her voice, which,
though flowing as sweet as honey, was like an arrow
shot at the young Sheikh's heart.

" Ah ! Ah ! " moaned the Sheikh, " I am dying
of love, and never will she be mine. Why is
bloody feud between our families ? Why is that
tent curtain between her and me ? Why can she
not see me riding my foal and showing my agihty ?
She would have pity on me, and my tears, which
are drying up my eyes, would stop at a single look.
I would then carry her off to a place of happiness.
We would reach another camp and my body would
again put on flesh. But as it is, I am worn to a
skeleton with care. Her black eyes and the golden
henna on her nails have drawn out the very blood of
my veins. My body and my bones have become
transparent, so that my very shadow seems nothing
more than the thinnest veil. Ah me ! Ah me ! I
shall surely die and another will love my gazelle ! "

Ere continuing his story. Said paused awhile,
as though to see what impression he had produced
on his audience. Everybody was deeply moved.
Many of the girls and young men had tears in
their eyes, and the glances exchanged between
Hassan and Sabha were full of meaning.

AN EMOTIONAL POEM 227

" Alas ! " the looks of the former seemed to say,
" I have no horse with which to carry you away.
Nor am I certain that you would be willing to
follow me. An attempt to take you against
your will might cost me my life. Perhaps it will
be better if I wither away like the young Sheikh
in Said's poem."

But the message in Sabha's eyes and the happy
ending of the bard's narrative gave him courage.

It was long after midnight when the last notes
on the one-stringed fiddle ceased. But nobody
was really sleepy. The company would have
listened until morning had not next day's duties
been in memory and Said had complained of
hoarseness. So when Abd er-Rahman had
honoured the bard with a golden lira the guests
dispersed and retired to rest.

Ill

Hassan was' too full of emotion through passing
a whole evening near his lady love to sleep a wink.
How much Sabha slept she never said. One
thing, however, I can state with certainty : long
after the snow had melted and Spring had painted
the fields and hills with green and many colours,
the echo of Said el-Ma ^ati's song was still in the
young people's hearts. As they went about their
work, day after day, — Sabha with her herds and
Hassan in the fields, — they dreamed of wild rides
and a future home in a new and far-away land.

228 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Early one morning, as Hassan drove his donkeys
and cows to their work, he met Sabha at the well.
If it is not in Fellah manners to be gallant, love's
gallantry is the same all the world over, so he
hastened to seize the opportunity to help her to
set the heavy jar of water on her head, and, for
the first time in his life, to speak to her. But
words came with difficulty. He could only think
of asking her how it was that she was alone. She
replied simply, that with her father's wife there was
no pity. She was forbidden to linger at the well and
wait for the other maidens, for when the heaviest
housework was done she had to take the herds to
the mountains. " Eesht ya kheyi, — May you
live, my brother ! " she hastily murmured as
thanks. And each hurried away, lest anybody
should see them and suspect an assignation.

The interview had been of the shortest, but all
the same Hassan was in a seventh heaven of
deUght. In lifting the jar he had touched her
body. He had smelled the odour of the Khedar
perfume, which she had taken from her step-
mother. His lips had almost come into contact
with her thick curls as they pushed forth under her
veil, — curls like those of the girl in Said's poem.
Indeed, he fancied she was the very image of the
fair lady whose charms he had heard sung to an
accompaniment on the Rababy that winter evening.
Strange, he mused, that her name was Sabha
(the Dawn), and that it was a white morning when

HASSAN'S LOVE SONG 229

he first met her ! Her face, now that he came to
think about it, was indeed like the Dawn. And
forthwith he named his white-faced cow Sabha,
in order to have an excuse for calUng out the name
of his beloved. How he yearned for her ! His
thoughts were full of her when ploughing, sowing,
reaping, or thrashing. Sabha was ever uppermost.
The black water-fowl with its white face was
Sabha ; every white flower, every white thing in
Nature reminded him of her and made his heart so
overflow with poetic thoughts that he improvised
a little love song beginning : —

" Shuft is — Sabha fi tareek
Ghamat 'hassra fi Kalbi
Sabha sadrat jal fareek
Tamat il 'hassra ja niri. " ^

Every morning Hassan went early to the well,
but never again could he meet Sabha there. It
was rumoured (neither could learn how it was that
the news got abroad) that they had met ; so
Sabha was no more sent to fetch water at an early
hour. Moreover, to cut short all talking, Abd
er-Rahman decided that she should no longer go
with the herds. Henceforth she was to carry the
milk and produce to the Jerusalem market in
company with other women and girls, and so be
always guarded.

It was not long before Hassan discovered that

1 "I have seen Sabha in the way.
My heart received a severe knock.
Sabha has gone and since that day
I suffer from the terrible shock."

230 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

he could only meet her in the city, amidst the noise
of the streets and when the other women were
busy. You may be sure that he soon found a
pretext for going to Jerusalem. People flocked
there every Friday : some on a visit to the
Haram (the Mosque of Omar), others bent on
selling their animals. He knew that the doors of
the city were closed during prayer hours, from ten
o'clock until noon, that nobody could either come
in or go out, and he calculated that there was
every possibility of his meeting Sabha, either when
she was buying articles for a coming wedding of
which the whole village of Abu-Dis had been talk-
ing for days, or when she was waiting for the gates
to be opened. His plan was successful. He did
meet her ; but had merely time to exchange
glances, to assure himself that she still had sym-
pathy for him, and, ere he disappeared in the
crowd, to whisper the first two Unes of his com-
position. It was evident that he must seek for a
better opportunity of telhng her all that he had in
his heart.

IV
The moon was growing larger and the day for
the wedding was rapidly approaching. It was a
beautiful night in May, with a clear starlit sky.
Stretched at full length on the roof of his father's
house, Hassan dreamed of his beloved. For
several evenings he had heard singing and ulula-
tions, as the girls of Abu-Dis gathered on the

HASSAN'S HAPPY DREAM 231

house-tops to practise the songs and dances they
were preparing for the coming ceremony ; and
now, once more, he thought he could hear the
music of song and dance.

He dreamed that he was looking on at a grand
rehearsal, and that Sabha was the most agile
dancer and the sweetest singer among all the per-
formers. Her silvery voice covered all the others,
and her solos, when she improvised before the
other girls, sounded like a concert of cymbals and
drums. Ah ! if only he could get a Httle nearer
and once more tell her of his love. Listening
intently, he seemed to hear her words and the
others repeat them : —

" Nahun ibneiat mithle ilward la fatah !
Kulmin shamna walamna rabahn alley fatah !
Ya makhid is samra ya aima ya imkassah
Khotlak wahady min il baid titsabah wa titmassah," ^

Then came a chorus of ululation. " Lull-u-luU-
luU-u-luU-luU-u ..." it struck upon his ear,
and so loud, at last, that he woke with a start.

He could hardly believe that it was all a dream.
Everything, and especially the words of Sabha's
song, had been so distinct. Surely it was an
omen ? And he found himself repeating the
lines one by one, in order to try to discover their
meaning. Was it not evident that the " dark

1 " Dark roses are fit for the lame and the blind ;
Who gathers white roses is never behind.
Unceasing the blessings are sent from above,
And mornings and evenings are filled with their love."

232 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

roses " were the dusky-skinned girls of Abu-Dis,
who fell to the lot of the generality of lovers, " the
lame and the blind/' and that the choice " white
roses " included Sabha, who was merely waiting
to be gathered by some enterprising lover ? If
only he had the courage to gather her, — and with
her consent he determined to do so, — then the
blessings from Allah would be unending, and the
rest of their days would be " filled with their love."
Yes, he must be bold if he would possess his
beautiful white rose, otherwise his youth would
irrevocably sUp by and he would languish like the
young Hmedan of Said's poem.

Hassan's duties called him on the following day
to 'Ain Feshkhah, to gather rushes (dis) near that
Dead Sea spring with which to make the mats
for which Abu-Dis (the Father of Rushes) had
gained a reputation. It was late in the evening
when he returned home with his animals, and as he
approached the village, eating some bread and the
Dom-apples which he had gathered from an oasis,
the sound of singing told him that the customary
night's entertainment had begun. Putting his
cows and donkeys in a place of safety, he cau-
tiously approached on the house-tops, reached
the one where the singers and dancers had assem-
bled, and lay down in the deep shadow of a wall
to enjoy the marriage revel and ** drink " the
songs of ** his dawn."

The girls had lit a bonfire and were dancing

A PERFECT DANCER . 233

wildly around it and a central figure, — no other
than Sabha herself, whose flushed face seemed to
her lover to be more glorious than ever as the light
from the ruddy flames fell upon it. She was
waving a coloured Mandeel (kerchief) high above
her head ; so that her broad sleeves slipped down
and revealed her alabaster-like arms, each adorned
above the elbow with half a dozen glass bracelets
of the best Hebron make. She bowed to her
companions : now to the right, now to the left ;
she jumped here and there ; she seized a naked
sword to strike an imaginary enemy, and, with
commanding gestures, threw it from one hand to the
other ; whilst her feet incessantly moved to the
music of her song and the circle of girls bowed and
danced and sang before her. Comely though
many of the others were, Hassan had eyes and
ears for no one save the leading singer. He could
hear the swish of her silken tassels as they tossed
wildly to and fro ; he could perceive her bare feet
as they glided over the smooth roof. They seemed
like caresses to him.

Sabha now addressed a new song to the coming
bride : —

" Abiad min ith-thalj beda ghabailki,
As wad min il fahmi soda hawajebki
Kul Areesin in tallabki allal baab natirki
Yetla imhassar alia keflat hawasirki. " ^

* " Your breasts are as white as the hills when it snows ,
Blacker than coals are your perfect black brows.
The candidates, lurking about your door, sigh.
Return and regret ; no one dares to come nigh."

234 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

The ululations which followed were not calcu-
lated to quieten him. He resolved to act at the
very next opportunity, even if he should die in
doing so. Why not die fighting for his beloved
rather than languish away in inaction ?

In her wild dances Sabha's girdle had become
loosened and her head-veil had slipped. She
stopped a moment, giving the leadership to Helwy,
the next best dancer. As there were several men
standing by, Sabha retired to the shade of the
wall where her lover was lying to rearrange her
clothing, and, as decency requires, everybody
looked the other way, towards the dancers.
Hassan, who feigned to be asleep, was so near to
her that he could almost have touched her.

" Ya Kheiti, — My sister," he whispered. " I
am with you morning and night."

Recognising him immediately, she put her
finger to her mouth and replied : —

" Huss ya Kheiji, — Hush my brother. As
soon as the wedding is over, we can meet again in
Jerusalem. I will buy perfume for my mother
at Hadj Abdallah's shop in the Suk el-Attarin,
next to the Suk el-Lahamin ; * and there we will
speak together."

In a moment she had fastened the red silk
girdle, fixed the veil with a great pin to her thick
raven hair, and hurried back to the dancers,
where she took up her post again.

» The Butchers' Street.

GOOD LOOKS AND COMMERCE 235

Hassan's heart was ready to burst with joy.
She had returned the love compUment. For
the second time she had called him by the sweet
name of brother, and she had appointed a meeting-
place in the great city where they could surely see
each other and, in all security, make their future
plans.

V

Sabha's growing beauty did not influence her
stepmother in her favour, especially as her own
daughter Hasna was small and very dark-skinned,
— so brown indeed that she received the nickname
of Abdy (negress). When Sabha came home from
the Jerusalem market, Kadriye's animosity used
to take the form of a searching examination of
her accounts, in order not to leave the girl any
chance of making a few coppers, as pocket-money,
out of her transactions. But Sabha was as good a
business woman as she was a dancer or singer.
Even an austere Oriental prefers to see a well-
mannered tradeswoman, and will willingly pay
a few extra paras if a smiling face looks at him
from behind a stall or basket of provisions and a
sweet persuasive voice invites him to buy. Con-
sequently Sabha always sold her milk or labban,
her hens or eggs much better than the plainer
featured and less elegant mannered Fellahat.
That she also contrived to make a little legitimate
profit for herself, in spite of her stepmother, you
may be sure. Sometimes a friend, knowing her

236 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

reputation for being able to sell anything, would
give her goods to sell, and on these she was allowed
a small commission. Thus was she able to indulge
in those little luxuries to which every Eastern
girl aspires : small coloured beads and rows of
quarter Majidis pierced with holes and sewn on
her head-dress.

The few days which separated them from their
appointed rendezvous seemed hke months to
Hassan, and the marriage rejoicings were wailings
in his ears. He could not bear to think of Sabha
displaying her beauty and skill to anyone save
himself. Yet, he often asked himself, what right
had he to lay claim to so superb a creature, — he
who was so powerless to carry her away ? His
only steed was a she-ass, fit for nothing save the
carrying of mats to the Jerusalem market. In their
flight — if ever she consented to that — the slow-
moving beast would be nothing more than a
nuisance.

At last the happy day dawned. Driving his
ass over the Mount of Olives, Hassan saw the
rising sun tinting the Holy City with beautiful
roseate colours. With the gilt cupola of the
Mosque of the Holy Rock reflecting the bright
rays of the sun, the Temple plateau void of people,
and the multitudinous minarets pointing to heaven.
El Kuds was to him the hoUest of sanctuaries.
His love was going to be sealed in that immortal
city. "He! He!" he exclaimed, as he urged

ttiO

5S

FLOCKING TO THE MARKET 237

on his ass ; and he wished she had wings to carry
her over Kedron. But the beast of burden
responded neither to word nor stick ; slowly she
crept over the Jewish cemetery, down the slopes
of the mountain, barely passing the groups of
peasants whom they overtook on their way.
Among these were numbers of Siloam women, who
marched along below Absalom's pillar with baskets
on their heads, containing heaped up cauliflowers,
parsley and chard beet leaves from their watered
gardens. The more women he saw flowing to the
market the better he was pleased, for he knew
that the denser the crowd the more certainty
there was of his meeting with Sabha being unob-
served. On entering Bab Sitti Mariam (St. Mary's
or St. Stephen's Gate) the Fellahat, pouring in
on all sides, increased at every step. Moreover,
on that particular day, Jerusalem was full of
visitors and pilgrims of every nationality.

Hastening as rapidly as possible to the Bazaar
where mats are sold, Hassan set down his load.
Hardly had he done so than some foreign visitors
came and bought his four mats at a Majidi each,
and at the same time ordered ten more, as they
were furnishing several sets of rooms in the Greek
Convent. Promising to be at the same place
a fortnight hence, he hastened away to the
Friday fair near the Prophet David's Gate (Zion's
Gate) and found the market crowded with cattle,

donkeys, goats and sheep. Six Majidis were

17— (3131)

238 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

offered for his ass, but he refused them, and,
after half an hour's waiting, seeing that nobody
came his way with a better offer, he drove his
animal to a Khan, where he paid fifteen paras for
it to be fed and looked after during his absence.
Then, with a rapidly beating heart, he hurried as
fast as the crowd would permit him to the corner
of the Suk el Lahamin and the Suk el Attarin.

Sabha was already busy there, choosing her
perfumes, a little pepper and cinnamon and some
anise seed for dishes of curdled milk. Nobody
of their village was about. Nevertheless, Hassan
acted with Oriental circumspection. He feigned
to buy powder and shot, telling the 'Attar ^
of his game expedition to the oasis of the Dead
Sea. There were no formal salutations between
the lovers when they left the shop and walked up
the street, which was so narrow that not more
than two persons could walk abreast without
almost pushing into the articles hanging around
the shop doors. As soon as they were side
by side Hassan lost no time in making his brief
declaration.

" Soon," he said, " I shall be leaving Abu-Dis
to go and live beyond Jordan with the tribe of the
Aduan. I can no longer stay in the village without
you."

Sabha blushed and, in her confusion, replied :
" Take me with you."

1 Apothecary and perfume dealer.

THE LOVERS' MEETING 239

Hardly, however, had the words passed her
lips than she retracted.

" Ye ! my brother, how do you think I could
leave my father and brothers, my work and my
far-away sister ? "

But the word which has passed the lips is master
of the speaker's thoughts. Hassan insisted that
he was ready to take her whenever she chose to
follow him. He had merely time to add that in a
fortnight he was to bring a fresh supply of mats
to the market, that she should bring all her spare
things with her, and that he knew a sure way of
attaining their object. Some Abu-Dis people
were coming down the street and left him but a
moment to slip into a by-way without being seen.

VI

Hassan and his father worked busily at the mats
for the next fortnight and Sabha went daily to
market. Sometimes she returned home at noon
but often, of necessity, she was later. Owing to
the gates of Jerusalem being closed whilst the
people were at prayer, she frequently missed her
chance of selling her produce to advantage. Her
stepmother's suspicious questions and looks when
she explained how it was that she had come home
late greviously offended her, so that her thoughts
often recurred to Hassan's projected departure.
Could she bear to let him go without her ?

On the eve of the Friday market, when passing

240 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Hassan's home, she saw the mats rolled up in
front of the door and wished that she could meet
him, in order to beg him to stay in Abu-Dis. Just
at that moment he came round the corner. As he
passed her he seized the opportunity to whisper :
" I shall be ready to start to-morrow. We will
meet at the same shop."

Late that same evening Kadriye made ready
the produce for next morning's market. Sabha's
basket contained butter, sour milk and eggs,
packed amongst olives, so that they would not
break against the milk-jars. Her exacting step-
mother estimated the possible price of every article
and ordered her to buy, in the Suk el Khawajat, a
piece of blue stuff for her sister Hasna. Should
the money not be enough, she was to pay the
remainder from her own earnings, "as her poor
sister was very badly off for clothes, etc., and
never had any chance of earning anything,"
though, as a matter of fact, little Hasna was always
neatly clothed and had far more silver ornaments
than her elder stepsister.

Friday came and with it the usual crowds.
Rows of yelling and bargaining women filled the
lower quarters of Jerusalem. Women of Siloam,
the Mount of Olives, Bethany and Abu-Dis chat-
tered and quarrelled as they bought and sold.
Sabha, selling everything very quickly, explained
to her last customer that she was in a hurry to
get home. Her stepmother wanted her to work

too

fcuO

«aBB«2uJL.'l/'

THE ELOPEMENT 241

and she would have to hasten before the gates
closed for prayer. As she had to buy the material
for her sister, she went up the town instead of
going towards Sitti Mariam.

Hassan, too, was busy selling his mats to the
customers in the Greek Convent. He then drove
his ass to the fair, where, before he had been
there more than a quarter of an hour, she was
sold for seven Majidis to a man of Bethel, north
of Jerusalem. He chose his customer with care,
for anyone from the east might have asked silly
questions : why he sold his ass, and so forth. He
was very glad of the chance of getting rid of the
animal at such a fair price.

With the ten Majidis for the mats and seven for
his ass, Hassan was a rich man and could start in
life for himself. His powder-horn was full ; his
small leather bag contained bullets and shot ;
his Shibriyeh was fixed in his girdle. He had left
his gun outside the gate, near Gethsemane, with
an old oUve-guardian, as the soldiers at the gate
would not allow any armed Fellah to enter the
city.

Finding Sabha at the appointed meeting-place,
Hassan explained that he was indeed turning his
back on Abu-Dis that very day. Was she coming
with him ? . . . Sabha again hesitated. Should
she leave home and throw in her lot with another ?
Had she really any right to complain ? Harsh
though her stepmother often was, she did not

242 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

exactly illtreat her ... On the other hand, her
stepsister was rapidly growing up and could
easily fill her vacant place. Yes, Hasna was
getting a big strong girl and would soon be able
to go to market. Besides, she was the preferred
one ... At the thought of freedom, Sabha's
heart began to beat riotously. Then, suddenly,
she gave her consent.

" Which way shall we leave, brother ? " she
asked.

Hassan indicated a quiet street out of the Bab
el 'Amud (Damascus Gate) and instructed her to
turn to the right and walk slowly, with her empty
basket on her head, towards the north, where he
would join her by the southern side. Then they
parted.

Half an hour later, Hassan and Sabha met at
Karm esh Sheikh. Both looked very embarrassed,
for now they belonged to each other. And yet
they were strangers. They had never been alone
together as at that moment. For a few hundred
yards they walked without speaking a word.
At last Hassan broke the silence.

" My sister," he said, " anybody meeting us
will guess our situation at once if we continue this
embarrassment. People will see by our clothing,
our manners, and our speech that we are not of
their parts. Villagers know each other so well
and talk so much that our flight will be reported
at once. We must leave the main road and go

I

AN AWKWARD POSITION 243

towards the Jordan. But we shall have to walk
quickly to reach the huts of the Ghawarny ^
before nightfall."

Stumbling over the stony way, which Hassan,
fortunately, knew very well, the lovers made their
plan of campaign. They agreed to say that they
were married, but had quarrelled with their parents
on account of a stepmother ; and to everyone
inquiring whence they came they were to give the
name of a different place.

By the time they reached El Ghor both the
wanderers were very tired. Sabha had left her
basket with the empty milk-pots, etc., in a grove.
The nearer they approached the Jordan valley
the warmer it grew. Her red mantle was the
only superfluous article she decided to carry with
her.

Received with hospitality by the negro-arabs
above Jericho, each slept in a separate tent :
Sabha with the women and Hassan with the men.
The older Bedawiyat, after hearing their tale,
wisely shook their heads and spoke about a
Khatify,.2 though Sabha had sworn that they were
newly married and were going to see the land
which " her husband " had rented from the Aduan
in the autumn. The younger women and girls
fuUy believed her and did not see why it should
be otherwise. But the men agreed with the elders.
They had noticed the lovers' teU-tale glances.

1 Jordan Valley Arabs. ^ Elopement.

244 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Some remarked that the young man was nicely
shaven and looked very much like a sinner. More-
over, appearances were against them. The woman
carried practically nothing ; the man was without
agricultural implements, — he had not even a
sickle. However, that was their business. ** May
Allah level their road," wished the sceptical ones.
Everyone had a right to a chance to live. And so
the Ghawarny feigned to believe the story which
had been told them and decided to indicate the
best way on the following day. Should pursuers
come, they (the Ghawarny), having given this man
and woman food and lodging, having eaten
" bread and salt " with them, would be obliged
by the laws of hospitality to deny that they had
ever seen them.

VII

Early next morning, Hassan and Sabha were
on their way towards the Jordan. Their conver-
sation centred around the impression produced at
Abu-Dis by their flight. Abd er-Rahman and
Kadriy^ would probably ask the women late in the
evening if they had seen her, and on being told
that they had not set eyes on her since morning, a
messenger would be sent to Bethlehem, to her
grandmother's, to inquire if she were there.
Unless they waited a day or two to see whether
she came back. As to Hassan's father, he would
probably conclude that, as the boy was fond of

ADMITTED AS " MATNUB " 245

hunting, he had gone to the desert with some
Sawahry ^ with whom he had been on expeditions
before. There was no need to be anxious about
the ass, which he had perhaps left in safety in the
Khan. In short, Hassan and Sabha concluded
that they were safe for a day or two more, until
they were far out of reach.

The lovers were not very far out in their pre-
dictions. When the people of Abu-Dis found that
the two young people had eloped, every woman
knew more about the past — the mysterious meet-
ings near the weU, in the town, and on the road —
than was possible. Kadriye was deeply grieved
at the loss of the money from the last sale and at
having to find someone to replace Sabha' s cheap
labour. But she had observed the girl's sullen
demeanour and expected the worst. Abd er-
Rahman was really very much affected. He did
not reahse until then how much he loved his
eldest child. He bitterly regretted his want of
affection and secretly blamed Kadriy^ for having
treated the fair grown-up daughter too harshly.

Meanwhile Hassan and Sabha travelled on
beyond the Aduan (their alleged destination)
until they came to the Beni-Sakhr, up on the
plateau of Moab. On asking this tribe to admit
them as Matnub^ they were received with joy,
and a tent (the cost of which was covered by
contributions) was given to them. Furniture,

^ Bedawin. * Naturalised subjects.

246 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

an old carpet and the most necessary articles for
their household were also provided in a similar
way. Hassan took down his turban and made
it a flying head-dress (Kafiye). Sabha was trans-
formed gradually. Her short Fellaha skirts were
lengthened inch by inch, and with her spare money
she bought a black mantle, the indispensable
garment of every Bedawiye. Her red one, in
memory of the old days, she retained only for
indoor use. Hassan soon proved himself to be a
first-rate hunter ; consequently he received from
his comrades a fully equipped horse and, later,
joined them on their war expeditions.

Sabha brought up many children among the
Beni-Sakhr and never told anyone of the story of
her beloved Hassan's devotion until many years
had passed and the people of Abu-Dis had long
regarded them as dead, — the victims of Said
el-Ma 'ati and his Rababy.

XIV

SONG AND DANCE IN THE EAST

I

Songs and dances, as well as music and poetry,
or proverbs and stories, may be called the intellec-
tual treasures of the inhabitants of Palestine —
treasures inherited from ancestors reaching back
to the dawn of history. Superficial observers have
sometimes remarked that their songs are mere
repetitions, their music monotonous wailings, and
their instruments primitive, indicative of a nation
in the lowest stage of civilisation. But many
writers forget that the primary cause of this state
of affairs is to be found in the absolute belief of
the Arab in the divine revelation of every human
gift, marking men superior to the brute. Thus,
to him the calem (pen) is of divine origin.^
Why then change it? he asks. A typewriter
is ungodly, — an occidental invention. Books
other than the Koran are wicked ; singing at
prayers and dancing at a time of devotion have
been inspired from above, and no true believer is
allowed to admit new methods. Moslems are
faithful and punctual to the law and tradition
received from ancestors, and though we neither
admit nor submit to such inexorable obstacles to
progress, we cannot refrain from admiring their
constancy. What have occidentals done regarding

1 Sura Ixviii.

247

248 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

" forbidden graven images " ? Not only are
they everywhere in our streets and on our
public monuments — but even churches are filled
with them. The Moslem bows down to fate,
or orders given in the sacred books, the Torah as
well as the Koran, and cannot follow innovations.
God ordered Noah to build an ark and gave the
dimensions.^ Now, not only Moslems but even
Christian oriental sailors believe that it is contrary
to divine laws to build ships over 300 cubits long.
Musical instruments, songs, dances, were invented
by Jubal, 2 and it is transgression of the law to
admit other ways. As the law of Moses is
admitted by every true Israelite, every true Mos-
lem must strictly observe the Koran, which is
both a civil and a rehgious code.

In Islam we find a greater respect for the letter
of the law of Moses than amongst the alleged
dispersed tribes of Israel. The song of Moses
is a glorification of the supreme power of Jehovah. ^
The Blessings of Jacob and Moses prophesy*
war and wealth. Miriam and the women, singing
in antiphony, proclaim the triumph of Israel —
after the destruction of Pharaoh in the Red Sea. ^
Let us take an example. The modern Arab
Kaseedy is a song of expedition glorifying the
crushing of enemies, and the estabhshment of the
victorious tribe ; the Exodus of the Beni-Helal

1 Genesis vi. 14-16. * Genesis v. 21. * Deuteronomy xxxii.
* Genesis xlix. and Deuteronomy xxxiii.
6 Exodus XV. 20-21.

THE ZOOMARA 249

from Nejd, passing by the Holy Land and fighting
its way, till the final establishment in Tunis,
resembles the Exodus of Beni-Israel by Sinai to
the Holy City. A passage from this Kaseedy
runs as follows : —

" Benadi il imnadi fi Dawaweer Abu-'Ali,
Sultan Hassan Yom el Khamees yesheel,
Wa inkan endhum hurmuttin ajnabie
Yenadiha la ahelha min gher jameel
Wa inkan endho bint amo haleelto
Daneelha 'oj il rkab itsheel
Wa tar an bint it 'am tusbur 'alla-j-jafa
Wa amma-1 gharibey bidha didleel
Walli endo muharatin ma tittaba'ak
Yehot 'aleiha sarj ma yen adal ma yameel." ^

Musical instruments, especially the Neiye and
the Duff, are characteristic and unchangeable
instruments used from time immemorial.

The Neiye, also called Zoomara, is a double-
reeded wind instrument, generally used by shep-
herd boys but often also by camel-drivers ; and I
have often noticed how the animals in Palestine
are charmed by its hmited scale of notes, repeated
hour after hour. My special attention has always
been called to this primitive instrument, which I
do not hesitate to call Abu-Zemoor, the father of

1 " The Herald goes round the camp of Abu-Ali, and shouts
Sultan Hassan decamps on Thursday.
If you have foreign wives
Send them back to their people.
If your wives be your cousins,
Prepare the crooked necked (camel) for them,
For a cousin supports trials with patience,
And the foreigner wants persuading.
Whoever has an unbroken filly.
Saddle and equip it well."

250 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

musical instruments, and for some obvious reasons.
With its very few notes, dull to occidental ears,
it can raise passionate flames in the heart of the
Fellaha girl, just as the waihng tones of the
one-stringed Rababy can kindle the passion of a
young man, and lead to an elopement, ^ with as

^^i^D^

(Generally the Neiye or Zoomara is made of reeds, but some-
times it is formed with the wing-bones of the Nisr. The mouth-
pieces are movable and attached with strings, and like all the
other strings which hold the two reeds together, they are
strengthened with pitch. The mouth-pieces are called Banat —
the daughters.)

much ardour as can the most enchanting occidental
flute, or the skilled and dexterous violinist of the
West playing on a Stradivarius. And if the
Western bursts into tears when he hears " Home
Sweet Home," the Oriental melts at the thought
of " My Mountain home, my whitewashed dome/'
And has not this same Zoomara, which has en-
chanted the under-developed Palestine Fellah
for ever so many generations, also been a comfort
to millions of Christians who still hear " the
sweet singer of Israel " but are not aware that his
Psalms were composed to the accompaniment of
the Neiye ?

When David brought the ark to Jerusalem he
dehvered the first psalm to thank Jehovah,

1 See The Wooing of Sabha, pp. 218-246.

BLOWING A PSALM 251

" Sing unto him, sing psalms unto him." * The
Hebrew wording is Sheeroo-loo zamroo-loo — that is
sing a " She'er " to him, blow a Zoomara to him.
Now, a fellah blows the Neiye and the identical
word "Zamroo "is used. Again, in Psalm Ixxxi.
we find the words, " Sing aloud unto the God
our strength, howl unto the God of Jacob. Take
a Zamra (the English version says psalm) and
bring hither a timbrel (duff) the fine harp with the
psaltery." In Hebrew "Psalm" is "Mazmoor,"
indentical to the modern Arabic, meaning " played
on the Neiye or the Zoomara." We also read,
"Let him praise his name in the dance, let them
sing praises unto him with the timbrel and the
harp," 2 — in Hebrew, " Yehlaloo bimaTiool
biduff wabi Kanoot yezmaroo-loo."

Palestine proverbs are always based on incidents,
and a proverb has almost always a small story
attached to its origin. The origin of the proverb,
" Adob ibneiak zamarr — Now, your son shall
blow " (that is on the neiy6) is as follows : "A
man told his neighbour who was going to town to
bring a zoomara for his son. ' Very well,' repHed
the other. So he went on his journey, but forgot
all about the commission. The next time he was
about to set out, he was again asked to bring the
instrument. * All right,' he said. But he again
neglected to do as his neighbour had asked him.
The third time he left home, the man handed him

* I, Chronicles xvi. 9. ^ Psalm cxlix. 3.

252 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

thirty paras for the much desired reedlets. * Adob
ibneiak zamarr — now, your son shall blow/ said
the witty neighbour, as he received the money.
And, sure enough, in the evening the much
coveted object was in the hands of the delighted
boy." Oriental sagacity has placed the moral
education of the nation in their proverbs.

Though the days of Arab splendour are gone,
when generous and erudite Khalifs of the Omniad
and Abbasid dynasties, in the marble palaces of
Damascus and Bagdad, royally bestowed wealth
on poets for a single verse, — though Arab htera-
ture declined during the dark ages, when the con-
queror of the north threatened to crush the nation
out of existence, yet, thanks to the vivacity of the
language and the constant efforts of the intellectual
centres of Damascus and the world-famed El-Azhar
at Cairo, Arabic has incontestibly proved that it
is firmly rooted. The language has survived
political disaster and, thanks to this energy, we
are able to read the mentality of the people of
former ages, vividly preserved in immutable
manners, songs and melodies.

The Palestine mother sings to her baby in the
cradle as Samuel's mother did ; a woman sings
when grinding her corn as the Israelite of Isaiah's
days ; with Jephthah's daughter or with Miriam,
the very duff is used to praise great feats. Under
the vine and fig tree they sing as in the days of
the judges. Men and women are separated in

THE HOUSE 253

joy and in sorrow, as of old. From generation to
generation the father faithfully transmits his
wisdom to the son and the mother teaches her
daughter, the way she learned from her mother.
Age is so respected that it is a transgression to
dare to change a single word, a single colour.

These are some observations concerning a family
group in a well-known Judaean village: —

Miriam and Abdallah were cousins, and had
been brought up in the same house. They had
grown up side by side — and their manners were
the same. How could it have been otherwise ?
For not only were their fathers brethren, their
mothers also were sisters. Each family Hved in a
room, which every one pompously called " his
house." But does not the tent-living Bedawy
call his tent or hut by the same name ? " Beit "
House — means as much as hearth in the English
language. These two houses were nothing more
than two rooms, the doors of which opened into a
court-yard, itself surrounded by a wall on which
were stuck sharp thorn-hedges,^ to protect the
herds and keep out thieves or wild animals by night.

As the cousins were of the same age and the
mothers Uved on good terms, Miriam and Abdallah
were almost always together. The herds, the
land, the gardens, the poultry, belonged to their
parents in common, consequently, whether at

^ Cf. Micah vii. 4.

i8— (2131^

254 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

work or at rest, there was hardly a moment they
did not spend in each other's company. When the
two mothers rose long before dawn, to grind the
daily flour on the handmill, they worked together, ^
and sang the songs they had learned from their
mother and which, to judge by the wording, may
be traced as far back as history. One of these
songs, sung in long-drawn tones, ran as follows : —

" In my father's house there are riches.
Black negroes go quietly about to work.
The days of my youth when visitors met
As the fruits of last year have vanished."

Half slumbering the children retained the wording
— and when at play they repeated the song, which
in their turn they handed on to their offspring.

In the cradle they heard the mother's lullaby : —

" Helwy mattat, mattat. La Walla salamet ha.
Bukra tokol Khurfeshy, illi btutkur fi jozetha."*

Or else, as a variation, the other mother would
sing :—

" Nami ya 'eni, nome il hinna ;
La tashufi adna danna.
Ya'h mik lUah, dumti fi sa'tik.
Jufi bima'dik lUah es-sama." '

Miriam and Abdallah had also heard children's
songs from the neighbours, and being very keen
to learn songs of all kinds could at once repeat them.
One such song was as foUows : —

1 Matthew xxiv. 41.

* " Helwy is dead ! No ! God save her !
She has perhaps eaten an artichoke
Which has stuck in her throat."
' " Sleep, darling, sleep in peace ;
May you never have sorrow.
, God will protect and give happiness.

God in heaven grant your prayer."

A DOGGEREL 255

" Ya Kammar, ya hadi ya munawer alla-1 hanady,
Awlad Khamsy, sitty, belabu ta'ht id dikky."i

Betimes they astonished their companions by
singing unknown doggerel rhymes which they had
picked up somewhere : —

" Saranda'h ya saranda'h
Tool ik-tareek mana amda'h
Bamda'h sitti Safiy6
Im 'ekoos il imdaliy6
Dalatni 'alia bab el-beer
A'tatni shambar hareer
Kalatli bifarhat amin
Darabt il-Kooz bitufa'ha
Til'oo Kiawati rama'ha
'Hamleen is-sawany
Khataftli Siniye
Hamra wamakliye
Ajat Khalti is-sarraka
Sarkat min warai
Wuk'at min Kafai
Fi Tamar wa hinna
Tamoot il 'ajooz
Watedal U Mnna."*

* " Oh moon ! calm guardian who giveth light to man.
We are five or six children playing under a belt."

* " Saranda and Saranda,
I meditate all the way.
I think about granny Sophy,
Limping on her crutches.
She showed me the way to the well ;
Gave me a silken shawl.
She told me with joy :
Strike the cymbal with an apple.
My sisters came in a hurry,
Canying great dishes.
I snatched one of them.
Bearing roast and fried food.
My thievish aunt came that way
And stole one behind me.
She fell behind me
Amongst dates and henna.
When the old one dies
The daughter-in-law will remain (at home)."

256 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

As Miriam and Abdallah grew up their ambition
was not to invent new songs but to retain the old
ones. After a long summer without rain, pro-
cessions went round the village, the women and
children imploring for pity : —

" Ya Rabbi itbill ish-shartoota
Kabbel in 'hamel Kabbel in-roo'h
Kabbel in-'hamel 'a Musser
Fi Musser ma navra'sh.

Ya Rabbi itbill ish-shaly
Wa ma'hna te'htak Khaiyaly
Ya Rabbi ma hoo battar
Yalla Karamy lal mattar." ^

Another year, when all the orchards were full
of the most luscious fruit, many families of Jerusa-
lem and Bethlehem came out to camp for a few
weeks and " live on fruit," — an evident imitation
of the feast of booths ^ and the Uving under vine
and iig-tree. ^ Miriam and Abdallah, always ready
to learn, made friends with the town children and
from them learned many songs which were new to
them. In the towns, where Jews and Christians
are more common, the children said they rarely
made friends with those of another creed and

* " Oh, Lord ! wet our veils
Before we load and start ;
Before we start for Egypt.
What awaits us there ?

" Oh Lord ! wet our mantles.
We only act by your order —
Oh Lord ! It is not through pride.
We honour, O God, your rain ! "

» Leviticus xxiii. 42 and Nehemiah viii. 14.
» I. Kings iv. 25.

EASTER-SONGS 257

often sang one against the other. The Moslems
would sing : —

" Ya Nasara, ya Yahood !
'Eet-kum 'eet il kurood
'Eet na 'eet in-Nabi
Fatme jabbat sabi
Samato 'Abd en-Nabi
Khabatto bil-Khabaye
Ta'mato zalabiye, etc." ^

The Christian children of Bethlehem or Jerusa-
lem, to rally the Jews, turned against the Yahood
with the words : —

" Ya Yahood ! Ya Yahood !
'Eet kum *eet-il kurood
'Eet na 'eet il Masee'h
Wal Masee'h fadana.
Bidammo eshtarana
Ma dean ilia dean il Masee'h
Wa fath in-noor wa 'esadna
Wa hatha Kabr Seiedna
Seiedna 'Eesa-1-Masee'h
Ehna ilyome fara 'ha
Wal Yahood 'hazana," etc.*

1 " Oh, Nazarenes ! oh, Jews !

Your feasts are goblin feasts.

Ours are for the Prophet.

Fatmy (his daughter) had a son.

Whom she called Abd-en-Nabi.

She hid him in the wheat-trough

And gave him oil-cakes there."
* " Oh, Jews ! oh, Jews !

Your feasts are goblin feasts.

Ours are for Messiah, —

The Messiah who redeemed us.

With his blood, he bought us.

Messiah's religion is the only true one.

Light shone from his grave. '

The grave is Our Lord's

Our Lord Jesus the Messiah.

We rejoice on this day (whilst)

Poor Jews are sorry."
» A reference to the Holy Fire of the Greeks, which is alleged
to come down from heaven into the Holy Sepulchre on Maunday
Saturday.

258 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

These children also taught Miriam and Abdallah
round games in which all joined and sang in a
circle. Antiphonally the two groups sang the
words : —

" 1st. Ya Fatmy, y a 'onha

Fain ij jamal ?
2nd. Fil ma'ssara.
1st. Shu biyokul ?
2nd. Habbet durra.
1st. Shu beyeshrub ?
2nd. Nuktek nada.
1st. 'Ami, 'Ami ba'd amak !

Bitjawezneesh bintak ?
2nd. Bajawzek iyaha

Bitebool wa zemoor

Min Halab la Stambool." ^

The town families also brought musical instru-
ments with them, such as the Kanoon, a stringed
instrument resembling the stringed Kanoot, or
harp of David. ^ But this was only played in the
evenings by the men. Another of their instru-
ments was the Kamanjy, a small fiddle which
differs from the Fellah Rababy. The body of the
former is made of a coco-nut covered with sheep-
skin and has several chords, whilst the latter has

^ " 1st. Oh, Fatmy ! homage to you !

Where is the camel ?
2nd. The camel presses oil.
1st. What does he eat ?
2nd. A grain of durra.
1st. What does he drink ?
2nd. A drop of dew.
1st. Uncle, uncle, dear uncle,

Let me have your daughter.
2nd. I will give her to you

Accompanied by drums and neiy6s

From Aleppo to Stambul."

• I. Samuel xvi. 23.

MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS 259

only one string, is much bigger and square in
shape. But neither the Kamanjy nor the Kanoot
were for Miriam or AbdaUah ; their instruments
were the Duff/ or tamboureen, the Durbukky,
or the S'hoon (Cymbals), and with these they did
their best to encourage the danT^ers.

When Autumn came and all the visitors had left,
the two children continued their musical studies
and by dint of practice soon became recognised
as the most expert singers and dancers in their
village. Whenever there was a wedding, a pro-
cession for rain, or a burial, they were among the
guests.

As they grew older, they earned a few coppers
by small sales at the Bethlehem market and
thus were able to buy the necessary materials for
making musical instruments. Miriam became the
happy possessor of a Duff, and AbdaUah not only
purchased a Neiye and a Yarghool — but also
bought a cheap Soofara and a Shabbaby,
single reeded blowing instruments. But he
especially prided himself on a home-made
Rababy. His favourite song was a Kaseedy
of the Zeer, an old Arabian tale which runs as
follows : —

The factions of Kase and Yaman have been at
war. Murra, in the north, is conquered by the
Tobba Hassan of the Yemen. (The Tobbas of the
Hemyarite dynasty reigned in the fourth century

1 Exodus XV. 20.

260 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

A.D. Tobba Hassan was fifteenth prince, from
236 to 250 A.D.) The Tobba wants the beauti-
ful girl Jaleely to wife. But Jaleely is betrothed
to Klabe of the Kase faction. Yet they must
submit and send Jaleely with forty camels.
Every camel has a tiiple chest, with two com-
partments containing clothes and jewels, and, in
the middle, a hidden knight to kill the Tobba
when introduced into his castle. An old
necromancer is called and sings : —

" Takool il 'ajooz illathi Shahtat.
Ma 'an tazeel el 'anawi il sudoot
Ya Tooba 'Hassan in'em Wajood.,,
Wa erkab wa tared fok 'alia inhood.
Ya jibu-1 Jalleely, lajlak khadeemy.
Bi Khadin a'hmar wa jooz 'eyoon sood.
Wa yasba 'ha ya Tooba', ya Khalbooz fatha
Wa fi yad is-seiegh kul yome yesna'oo.
Wa ya badenha, ya Tooba' ya shillet 'hareer
Wa fi yad im 'allem kul yome yet la 'oo
Wa ya 'unkha ya Tooba' ya 'unk el-ghazM,
Wa ya thumha ya Tooba' ya Khaten thahoob
Fi yad es-seiegh-Kul-yome masn'oo." ^

Tobba Hassan goes and receives the bride —
but after much fighting is killed in battle, and

1 " The old woman says, I witness

Thou mayst adorn the captive, the sealed.
Give in abundance, oh Tooba Hassan.
Ride and gallop on women's breasts.
Let them bring Jalleely, the captive,
With red cheeks and coal-black eyes.
Her fingers, oh Tobba, as silver appears
In the hand of the smith, daily renewed.
And her body, oh Tobba, a silken roll
In the hand of the weaver, daily refreshed.
Her neck, oh Tobba, just like a gazelle.
Her mouth, oh Tobba, a ringlet of gold,
Daily repaired by the goldsmith's hand."

c

GIPSIES 261

Jaleely comes back to her tribe. Her beauty,
however, causes much bloodshed. The faction
continue to fight : Jassas, the Chief of the adverse
party, against the Zeer, a son of the Jaleely. The
Zeer is victorious and, as a final condition, con-
demns the descendants of Jassas to ride only on
donkeys. Now, the Gipsies are those descendants
and they stiU curse the Zeer : —

"Yen 'al Abu-1-Zeer
lUi rakabna hameer." i

Whereupon the FeUahin, because they received
cows with which to plough, answer : —

" Yen 'al Abu-1-Jassas
Illi hamalna massas."*

(It will be noticed by the student of these
Kaseedies and popular songs that their authors are
referred to by the bard as either He or Mohammed.
It is not the poet but the subject which counts.)

II

SmaUpox broke out in the village and the eight-
year-old Can'aan, the child of a neighbour, became
dangerously ill. His mother vowed that should
he recover she would offer a sacrifice to El Khadr. ^
Her prayers being granted, she invited friends and
neighbours to join in a procession to the Convent,

1 " Cursed be the father of Zeer,
Who made us ride asses."

* " Cursed be the father of Jassas,
Who provided us with goads."

» Cf. I. Samuel i. 11.

262 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

which, though Christian and dedicated to St.
George, is acknowledged by Moslems. Among the
guests were Miriam and Abdallah. All along the
way the latter entertained the party by playing
on his Neiye. Miriam, in her finest attire, led the
girls and, like Jephthah's daughter, did not forget
to bring her Daff. When the men were busy
preparing the lamb and the rice, the girls gathered
around Miriam, who was dancing her Me'hla,i
swinging her body to and fro — and now and then
knocking on her Duff and accompanying it with
songs and hallelujahs until she was flushed.
Her flying curls around her forehead impressed
even the young men ; whilst the girls, delighted
to encourage her, clapped their hands at every
third note. At last Miriam sat down quite
exhausted, though none the less admired by her
companions.

On the way back, whilst sitting down awhile
near the " sealed fountain " at the Pools of
Solomon, a long-haired Dervish passed. He
paused a few moments and entertained the com-
pany with a song which related, in harmonious
rhyme, the troubles of Joseph with his brethren.
It opened as follows : —

" Wa ramoo la Beer Jibrln
Mallaan Heiyeya multameen." *

Abdallah* s good memory and quick ear retained

* Judges xi. 34.

* " They threw him to Beer Jibrln,
Full of different kinds of serpents,"

A ROMANCE

263

the words and tune, and on returning home he
set to work to sing the song to an accompaniment
on his Rababy.

Abdallah had heard of the seven Mo'alakat
hung in the Kaaba at Mecca, and his ambition was
to retain as much as possible of all such songs.
He began, at first, with short verses ; and thus
his memory became very retentive. He quickly
learnt how to sing the No'h or lamentation songs ;
and he was also considered to be very good at
singing a certain Mawaal, or romance, supposed
to be sung by his lady love and beginning thus : —

I I ,^^-^

-&■

" Wa la man ya ghib il-Kamar, ma newlak il mufta'h."
" And when the moon has set I'll hand the key to you."

i

p^^

^ -j-

-cr

" Ah ya lail ah ya lail ah hay."
Dear, oh night, dear, oh night, oh dear ! "

His town friends' Mawaal were sung differently.
" Ya lail " — was drawn out three or four times the
length of Abdallah's "lail." Risk, his town
friend, used to put his right hand to his temple as
though to hold his head for the effort which the long
drawn-out " lail " required from his whole being.

The following summer brought much work in
the field, at the Hme-kiln, at the olive harvest, and
on all these occasions songs to encourage the
workers were very welcome. At the last

264 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

olive-gathering boys and girls worked and repeated
a song opening with the words : —

" Ya Zeitoon eklib lemoon ;
Ya lemoon eklib zeitoon," etc. ^

During the long winter evenings the young
people played all kinds of games, but She'er were
more welcome, as everybody could appreciate them.
Rabee brought new marriages. Miriam, ever
ready to use her sweet voice, was again the leading
figure in the dances in the evenings after the day's
work. As if bowing to the moon, she opened the
seven nights' ceremonials by one of the oldest
marriage songs, addressing the bridegroom thus : —

" TuU ib-Kamar wal Helali
Wal Nijme ish-sha'ale.
Walli bifoot ir-rafaik
Yerkhass wallow kan ghali.
Lull-u-lull-u-lull-u-," etc. 2

Then, turning towards the bride, in her own circle,
she smiled as she slightly changed her voice and
sang these verses : —

" Khaatmik ya maliha arinn bidaket in-nooba.
Inhoodki hal beed mithil thalj ma'hsooba
Sarat il kheel marsooje wamarkooba
Bint il ajawid ilia ibn is-saied matlooba —
LuU-u-luU-u-luU-u." etc. »

^ " Olives turn into lemons ;
Lemons turn into olives ! "
2 " The moon appeared, that crescent
And the flame-kindling star.
Whoever hurries to leave his friends
Loses his value though he be rich.
Lull-u-lull-u-lull-u," etc.
' " Your ring, oh fair one, rings as music.

Your breast is a white place all strewn with snow.
The horses are saddled and the riders have started.
The nobleman's daughter is asked for the Lord."

HOLY STANDARDS 265

When Eed el-Kebir, the spring feast, with
processions to the Sakhra (the Holy Rock in Jer-
usalem) and the succeeding feasts to Nabi Moosa
came round — the young people expressed a wish
to join the pilgrimage. The Standard, dedicated
to Seidna 'Omar Ben Khattab, was brought forth,
and with all the instruments, cymbals, and drums,
the valid villagers set forth. Not only men and
boys, but women and girls followed in the rear.
As they approached the wall of the Holy City,
and as Saiara (processions) after Saiara from all
the villages, with their instruments and standards,
poured into the town, a holy enthusiasm seized
the crowds. The men, half -naked, drew swords
and began to strike their bodies until blood
gushed forth, and all the time they wildly called
on their saints and prophets. What Bible reader
could fail to compare these savage scenes to those
which the Prophet EHjah contemplated when the
desperate prophets of Baal ^ expected wonders of
their deity ? Soon the Saiaras filled the streets.
Dervishes of all classes danced with all their
energy before entering the sanctuary ;2 women,
arm in arm and by threes and fours, followed
singing at the top of their voices.

When, on the following day, the ceremonies
were over in the temple-court, the Saiaras set
off again with the Beyrack, the holy standard of

* I. Kings xviii. 28.
» Cf. II. Samuel vi. 14.

266 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Moses, for the three days' feast in the wilderness of
Judah. 1 Very trying to all were these feasts and
very glad everybody was to return home and begin
their daily work again.

At harvest time the families of both Miriam
and Abdallah went down to the plain of Philistia.
There was no healthy flowing water there as at
their mountain home, — no wood, — no pure moun-
tain air. The village had a well about twenty
yards deep and as the women drew up the water
they sang to the water genius : —

" II mal yareed
Abdain waseed
Winghab el Abd
I'hdar ya seed
'End el tawreed." ^

The water is generally very bad in the torrid
plains of Palestine and many mountaineers suffer
there from malaria and ague. On this particular
expedition fevers were rampant. One of the
victims was Abdallah's father. At the funeral,
the women, especially the two sisters and Miriam,
rent their clothes, smeared their faces with
soot, and, with dishevelled hair, wildly danced
about the grave, singing the following lines, as

* Exodus V. 1.

Property requires
A lord and slaves.
If slaves are gone,
Remain my lord
In charge of wealth."

g ^

o

00

o

as

SONG TO THE DEAD 267

though trying to induce the departed one to
return : —

" Ya Sheikh hana mishwariye
Fiha Shabab oo jahleen.
Yiridoo shorak ya imsamma
Ya Sheikh, heihum biendahulak
Khafeef U Kaddem bista 'jelloolak
Biridoo shorak ya imsamma.

" LafEa dioof *alla-s-sa'ha
Itla 'yS' Abu Isma'in shoof
Kharoof ma bikri dioof
Wadoo la ye'lam yidjib oakhra.
LihMU ghamam 'hafi oo 'arian
Li'hkill aghnam 'a mowrad el moye." ^

Sequel ]

A few months later another death took place, —
that of Miriam's mother. The girl was so over-
come with grief that she refused food. But
when her father took another wife she regarded
herself as a stranger in her own home, once so
dear to her, and looked for comfort in her best

^ " Oh Sheikh ! there is a meeting
Of young and ignorant lads.
They want your counsel, blessed one.
Here they are ! — calling you Sheikh.
Light-footed, they run after you
And seek your counsel, blessed one.

" Guests have come to the public place.
Come out Abu Ismain and look !
A single lamb is not enough for them.
Send for more — one or two.

Seauel I ^^ ^°* ^P barefooted and naked
^ 1 And went to the watering-place

(to get the lambs)."

268 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

friend, — song. Many a time did she sing these
lines : —

" Marrakt 'an belt il 'habiby
Lakate sakinto ghariby
Sallamet ma raddat 'alleiyi
II Beit, belt immi 'erifto
Bish-sheed wal Tiasma kasarto
Sakanto oo ghishmit 'aleya
Lanno il 'habaieb fis-sa'id6 waseleen.
Ma sheen 'a nakhel ij-jareed oo jeen
Ka'ad ill 'habeieb 'all i'rak
Yibkin 'all ayam il-afrak
Yit'hakin 'all ayam il-laka." ^

Abdallah was now the head of his family. He
worked in collaboration with a number of other
young men of his own age, gathering brushwood
and thistles for a hme-kiln which they had built.
Whilst cutting the wood or carrying the big bun-
dles of thorns, singing was the order of the day.
Heaps of brushwood as high as houses were gathered,
and when the fire was put to the entrance of the
kiln, with a " Bism lUah ! " the men by twos con-
stantly shoved in the fuel, singing antiphonally

^ " I passed by the house of my beloved (mother).
A stranger had taken her place.
I greeted her and she did not answer,
Though it was surely my mother's house.
I knew the lime and the clay which she plastered.
I lived there but now am a stranger.
If the beloved ones (her father and stepmother) are

living in happiness ;
If they joyfully walk on palms
Others sit in sorrow and weep,
And remember the day of separation.
But sometimes they laugh for the days of meeting (again) .

JERUSALEM WORKERS 269

the following lines, which, if not profoundly sen-
sible, rhymed and served as an encouragement : —

1st Singer.

" Hana juwa.

2nd „

11 'hooma.

1st „

Wain waisilna.

2nd „

Darb el 'henna.

1st „

Darb esh-shoke

2nd „

•Handakoke." i

When the lime was burned they carried it on
their camels to building-places in Jerusalem.
There they found the workers singing over their
task. The gangs as they went up with stones or
mortar responded to those coming down : —

1st Gang. " Ya Muallem hilna —
2nd ,, WuUa bnuhrub kilna —

1st „ Ya Muallem haat baksheesh

2nd ,, WuUa bukra ma bnijeesh."*

These Jerusalem workers also sang in unison
a song which had come from Egypt and was
known in every street. Abdallah picked it up and
when he came back sang it to Miriam. But

1 " In it goes

At the fiercest moment.
Where are we ?
At the henna road.
The way of briars.
Trefoil plant."

2 " Master ! give us freedom

Else we shall run away.
Master ! give us baksheesh
Else we'll not come again."
19— (2131)

270

THE IMMOVABLE EAST

she did not much care for these
The opening hnes were as follows :-

novelties."

N \

:?5;=K

-^ — « — m — « — m m — ^ — «.

-m—mi

-!?-!?-

:;z=5c

" Baftu-Hindi, baftu Hindi Shash hareer ya banat tukhud uli

shash il ghali."
" Indian linen, Indian linen, Silken muslin. Hear ye, girls !

Buy me the dearest muslin."

^^=^-,^^^1^

^

:s=)N=fszz^

:JS=3;:

" Min suekat Hadrabat. Weft ahuli ya sabeya laglabat, laglabat."
" From the shops at Hadrabad. Open, maidens, let me enter.
Weary, let me in to rest."

He sang many more verses — but she only
liked the passage referring to conscription, for
lately a cousin had been taken away to the army —
and like every Fellaha, she cried for him as if
already killed in war.

i

>-4N ^-j^-r^

^

B fe V

^^=P^

^V ^ h i

- • ^. -^ -^

" 'Akhadook it Turki minni

Nawa 'oo Kalbi 'alake."
" And the Turks have dragged you from me.

Leaving sorrow in my aching heart."

HI

Abdallah and Miriam became engaged. They
were to be married in the autumn. Preparations
for the wedding were already being made.
Abdallah himself joined the dancers and singers ;
he had always been fond of the Sa'hjy, that all-in-
a-row dance in which he was an expert, and which

AS 3,000 YEARS AGO 271

reminds us of the Sahak in Sinai, " when the people
sat down to eat and drink and rose up to play." ^
In more ways than one has the Israelitish spirit
continued to exist in the Fellahin of Palestine. They
still sprinkle blood on the door-posts in commemora-
tion of some great past event, probably the recollec-
tion of the slaughter of the Egyptians. ^ Similarly,
as in the bowing to the golden calf, modem dancers
bow down, prompted by some long lost motive.

Abdallah was ever the leader in the Sa'hjy.
Facing the dancers, he drew his sword, and gave
directions. Singing, he made the human wall of
dancers stand still or move to the right or the left.
All the while they repeated what he sang — and
clapped their hands. Suddenly with a very
reverent bow, he made them bow, almost to the
ground, like camels ready to kneel. " Kh !
Kh ! Kh ! " he cried ; then commanded them to
rise again. Miriam and the girls with her were so
delighted that for a while they stopped their own
lively dance and whispered one to another. How
grand the scene was. What a master Abdallah
was ! And seizing her Duff, Miriam began to
sing as follows in honour of her beloved : —

'' Ah ! ih ! ah ! A hu ya hath a'l laTiam ya bene il 'ada kome

him'
Ah ! ih ! ah ! 'Aduatak daba'hu mara'h il khabar ish-Sham !
Ah ! ih ! ah ! Ya Malek, ya ibn il malek, yeblak bin-nesra

wadarat il fallak."

1 Exodus xxxii. 6. * Exodus xii, 17,

272 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

followed by the Zaghroot: —

yji^i^rrgzig— g-S-4-4-6-£-5-£-S s -
f(fr-^^— g — g g g g g g -> g g g g i^ —

"LuU-lull-ull-ull-ull-ull-uU-ull-uU-uU-ull-ull-oo."

" Ah ! ih ! ah ! Wa naru'h Udar il 'adoo wa nahidid ha.

Ah ! ih ! ah ! Wa innakkel a'hjarha 'alia belaad il Karak.

Ah ! ih ! ah ! Ha hathak malekna, low la kan halikna.

Ah ! ih ! ah ! Low la Rheilak taaleen ran il 'ada akhadna."

The late Claude Reignier Conder kindly cor-
rected my version of this song, and in the
" Quarterly Statement " of the P. E. F. for July,
1894, translated it as follows : —

" O, there was the butcher, the fury of foes.
Your foes are slain, was the news to Damascus.
O King, King's son, victory is thine. (Ululation.)
And a return to fortune.

Let us go to the foeman's home and destroy it.
And carry its stones to Kerak.
He would have ruled us — not till we perish !
Before your horsemen came, the foe was our prey."

Marriages are very often celebrated in Palestine
to terminate an expedition or to show joy on
returning home. Therefore the songs on such
solemn occasions have a note of victory in them.
The women of Israel came out with Me'hloot
and She'er playing on the Duff for Saul and David's
victory over Goliath — and antiphonally repeated,

SINGING ANTIPHONALLY 273

— first group : " Saul has slain his thousand " ;
second group : " David his ten thousand," ^
because David was considered as the bridegroom
of Michal, the King's daughter. It was a war
song to celebrate the future marriage, as weU as
the victory.

This singing in two groups is often to be noticed,
— for instance, with Moses when he " She^ers "
for the escape from the Egyptians ^ or with the
psalm of exhortation, when one party sings : first
** O give thanks into Jehovah, for he is good";
and the second answers : " For his mercy endureth
for ever," and thus twenty-five times, ^ or as in
the case of the two companies which gave thanks
in the house of God, Nehemiah and the half of
the rulers with him.*

As can also be seen, the women's songs have
retained the old measure. At times of joy or
sorrow, triumph or loss, the melody differs little
except that a more lively note is noticeable.
When Miriam, walking one day to Jerusalem,
saw mourning Ta'amr^ women weeping on the
graves near Rachel's tomb, she joined the mourn-
ers, as she knew several of them, and noticed the
low tone in which they sang compared with what
she had heard at MamiUa in Jerusalem. There
the women waved handkerchiefs above their

^ I Samuel xviii. 6-7. 2 Exodus xv.

* Psalms cxxxvi. * Nehemiah xii. 40.

274 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

heads and in shrieking tones began their address
to the departed as follows : —

-•- -(•- -•- -•-

t; 1: t— -&

i

SEiEiE^

;=^

I ,— -J— I J j — ^ !-

" Ya waradi-e

" La mano hilli nomo hoo
Kadadoo thiabho add'hadoo."

" When his sleep became prolonged
They rent clothes on his grave."

Here, on the contrary, the high pitched screams
were omitted, and the wailing song seemed a more
natural expression of deep grief. The mourning
of the dark Badawiyat took this more dignified
form : —

^ I I I I I I f^^^r^irr I I I iN'i^

> ^ ^ ^

" Manaksh Khaber y a Kheiyi. Yohne shufna 'hbabna.

hm ! hm ! hm ! hm !
Tal'een biz-zaffy wul Kheil. Wush Shab 'alia babna."

" Don't you remember, brother, When we saw our dear ones
Going on the horseback procession. And the youngster
at the door."

" Laminak tinshara, Bil mal ma ridna tana
Ya 'hesso ra'd, y 'erak la tahleel."

" If you could be bought — No money would be suf&cient.
His voice was like thunder, a rock for praising (God)."

Just as Miriam and Abdallah had learned songs
and dances — No^h (mourning songs) and Mowaal
(romances) — from their parents, friends and neigh-
bours, so in turn did they teach their songs and
dances, unchanged, to their children. And as I

MIRIAM'S SONG 275

listened one evening to Abdallah's tune as he
chanted the old dervish's song of Joseph, I was
struck by the fact that the construction of the
song of this modern singer was the same as that
of Miriam's song — not the young woman before
me with her " Duff " but the older Miriam, the
sister of Moses, when, following her brother's
example, she sang of Israel's delivery : —

■ ■I I . ft

D^isztt^

\ — ^-fi-

3C=it

J' J J

-*—*—#-

J. S

" Sheiroo li Jahweh Kigah gah. Soos wa rakbu rama meem."

" Sing ye to Jehovah, for his glorious deeds, Horse and rider
have been thrown to the sea " (Exodus xv. 21).

It was exactly the same as : —

" Wa ramoo la Beer Jibrin — ^Malan heiyeya multameem."

IV

As if transported through the ages of Palestine
history, I could distinctly hear, when watching the
wild gestures of Dervishes, the loud or faint echo,
as the case might be, of the songs and dances of
the prophets of Baal on Mount Carmel. On
hearing the Neiye, I could imagine David com-
posing a Mazmoor. At other times the sorrowful
song for a lost friend reminded me of the fall of
Saul and Jonathan on Gilboa, or the clear tinkhng
voices of the girls in the booths under the fig-
trees of those old forgotten feasts which Nehemiah
instituted and which were the occasion for " very
great gladness." ^ How could it be otherwise

* Nehemiah viii. 17.

276 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

when I heard Miriam's clear notes issue from one
of the booths : —

1/ i^ U i^ 1/ — i^~l» t^ ' ' U !g I -b ix ■i^

i

:s=?:

4— L ^°^

" Shay ya wellay, ya wellay,

ya bei."
" Shay ya wellay, ya wellay,

ya Khei."
" Shay ya wellay, ya wellay,

ya low low,"

and another girl, on the opposite mountain, respond
— like a far-away echo ? This singing from
mountain to mountain, often carried on for hours
in the gay sunshine, was interrupted by the
chirp of the cicadas or the continual croaking of
the crows as they fluttered about the fig-trees in
search of figs. ^ The very air itself seemed
impregnated in this unchangeable East with
archaic ideas and images. Ravens croaked as
they had always done ; jackals repeated the same
wailing sounds ; ruins told of ancient tragedies —
events which happened thousands of years ago —
and yet were spoken of as though they were
incidents of the last war episode in the Balkans.
With such thoughts as these I was riding home
late one evening down the stony village path
when it occurred to me that Miriam and
Abdallah's songs were more or less imitations of

* Cf. Psalm cxlvii. 9.

HALLELUJAH 277

the voices or sounds heard in Nature. The
setting crescent shed its last pale rays on the
innumerable rocks which studded the mountain
slopes. Behind the boulders the graceful cream-
flowered stalks of thousands of squills peeped out
on the nocturnal landscape like silent pigmies.
Suddenly, borne on the evening breeze, the sound
of drums and cymbals struck my ear, now louder,
now quieter as they were carried towards or away
from me. Then I remembered that it was
Thursday night, on which the Dervishes assembled
and prophesied, calling on the name of the one
God until the Spirit was upon them. ^ Abdallah
had belonged to them for some time past but up
to then only carried a big rosary about with him —
to say his " Saba'h." He and his comrades were
assembled for the Tahleel, which originated when
the moon was worshipped, and which later was
observed by the Israelites on the occasion of their
new moon solemnities. ^ Those Dervishes in that
village on the border of the Judaean desert, were
dancing and singing with the same ardour and
enthusiasm as their predecessors of olden times,
they were exhorted to sing hallel-u-jah to the
sound of the timbrel as in the day of the Psalmist.
And through the stillness of the night the voices
came up to me again and again, repeating
" Hallel-u-jah !— Praise to Jehovah ! " ^

^ I. Samuel xix. 20. ^ Isaiah i. 13. * Psalm cl.

XV

THEN AND NOW

I

In our peregrinations up and down the country
with our bees, my brother and I had pitched our
camp to the left of the main road leading from
Jaffa to Gaza, in the low hilly country between
two river-beds, which, further up in the mountains
of Judah, were known as Wad-es-Sarar (the
Valley of Sorek) and Wad-es-Sumt, but here,
nearer the sea, had changed their names into
Nahr Rubin and Nahr Sukreir, near the mouths
of which are the shrines of Naby Rubin (the
Prophet Reuben), and Naby Junis (the Prophet
Jonas). Both these sanctuaries are visited once
a year by flocks of pilgrims from all parts of
Palestine — pilgrims who indulge in a few weeks*
picnicking and spend the money they have
carefully gathered all the year round in view of
the feasts. When these feasts in the wilderness
are over the places are deserted for eleven months,
and only Warrans and serpents leave their unmis-
takable traces in the deep sand which for miles
covers the country. After the rainy season, the
rivers become flooded, and the consequent stag-
nant marshes afford good shelter for birds of all
kinds — magnificent haunts for the sportsman

278

APIARIES IN MARSHES 279

were it not for Sultan Wakham, ^ who reigns
supreme, and innumerable mosquitoes, who help
to inoculate his dangerous virus into the systems
of the few daring visitors who, like ourselves,
ventured there. Jackals, ichneumons, foxes and,
now and then, a stray hyaena, are the only quad-
rupeds who live and find plenty of food in those
inhospitable marshes. Our own special reason for
going there was the rich flora in August and
September, when our apiaries could best profit
by the flowers. We usually avoided all such
villages as Shuweikeh (Socoh), TeU-es-Safi (the
Blanchegarde of the Crusaders), or the Jewish
colonies of Ekron and Katra (Gederoth), and set
up our hives on the banks of the Wadies, mostly
lined with melliferous Agnus Castus.

Our apiaries were generally guarded by North
Africans, who were admirably fitted for keeping
would-be marauders at a distance. As in the days
of David and Saul, people of all classes, eager to
escape being called to judgment in the more
orderly centres, flocked to this land of the Philis-
tines to be in safety. ^ True, we did not frighten
anybody by foolish ways, as Nabal did,^ nor did
we ask who they were, nor did we care to know
the names of ** the servants that broke away from
their masters." By the intervention of our
Moroccans, we chose Abigail's pohcy, and let these

^ Malaria. * j^ Samuel xxvii. 1-2.

• I. Samuel xxv.

280 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

suspicious characters have honey in return for
" being not hurt by them."

Late one evening, when the plain was still
burning with the heat of a torrid August day, and
we were about to retire to rest, strange sounds as
of men in peril fell on our ears. Swift as lightning,
one of our guardians, *Hadj Imhammad, seized
his double-barrelled gun and rushed in the direc-
tion of the voices. Though a comparatively
honest fellow, whenever he could join in a row
with a chance of obtaining a share of the booty,
he became as vigorous a ruffian as any of those
who waylaid belated wayfarers in the long wind-
ings of the Wadies. His very rifle he had obtained
in one of these expeditions, in which he " had not
hurt the robbers." On 'Hajd Imhammad drawing
near to the place whence the sounds came, he
heard the complaints of a man lying wounded,
perhaps dying, on the ground. It was not long
before he found him and lifted him up. He was
a stranger, an Arab townsman. On opening his
eyes, the wounded man put his hand to his girdle,
where he generally kept his pistol, and cried
out: " Kohm wulla sa'heb ?— Friend or foe?"
Imhammad quickly quieted him, explaining that
he was a friend, a true behever, who had come to
rescue him. The injury he had received was a
blow on the forehead from a Naboot, but he could
stand up fairly well and so, leaning on Imhammad's
arm, the two men hobbled into our camp. But

HATED FRANJIS 281

no sooner did the stranger recognise us to be
" hated Fran j is " than he stood stock still and
seemed to be making up his mind to retreat. It
took all 'Hadj Imhammad's eloquence to persuade
him that we were really good people — " almost as
good as Moslems " — and that we should look after
him well until he went on to Jaffa or Jerusalem.
Esdud (Ashdod) was too far south ; Yebna was a
good way off ; and it was doubtful whether he
could count on as warm hospitality in the Jewish
colonies off the road as with " his masters." The
man repUed that he was now living in Jerusalem,
but that he knew the whole country and was a
native of Hebron, which he had left years ago.
He always looked for a place where no Christians
came into contact with him. True to his native
town, he swore ** by the life of the Prophet
Abraham, the friend of God — Wu'heyat in-
Nabi Ibrahim Khaleel Allah ! " However, on
hearing that we were the Urtas Fran j is, his
attitude suddenly changed. His face positively
beamed with joy, and he at once consented to
teU us who he was.

His name, he said, was Hassan Yaseen Abu-
Razek, and he was the nephew of the well-known
Sheikh Hamzy, the travellers' guide of Hebron.
Strange to say, we were not unknown to each
other. On one occasion, when on a tour to
Hebron and in the ever-regretted vineyards of
*Ain Askala, he had found us boys with our

282 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

mother living in a hut under his uncle's big nut
tree. And he distinctly remembered the good
woman going round from hut to hut in the vine-
yards, tending the sick, giving quinine to this and
that one, but especially dropping Kutra (lapis
infernalis) into the eyes of the numerous ophthalmia
suffering women and children, including himself.
Never would he forget Im-Hanary (the mother of
Henry), the Hakimy. ^ Henceforth we were almost
brethren, for had we not Hved several weeks under
the same hut and starlit sky — had we not eaten
" bread and salt " (" il 'esh walmal'h ") together,
in good old Sheikh Hamzy's vineyard ?

n

When Hassan Yaseen had had a good night's
rest and had partaken of our frugal breakfast —
the usual cup of Moka, biscuits and honey — we
rolled our cigarettes and spoke together about his
narrow escape on the previous night and our
wonderful meeting after so many years. He, too,
had been a citizen of the world, as the story of his
travels and adventures showed.

" By Nabi Ibrahim el Khaleel," he began,
" Naseeb (Fate) has brought us together again.
May we often meet thus. Though I thought that
the perilous days of Fellah Sheikdom had gone for
ever, and that the Turkish Government had put

1 Doctoress.

GRAPES OF ESHCOL 283

order into the unsettled days of my youth, travel
is evidently still Khattar. ^ I will retire from
business after this last adventure. . . . When
I was a boy my father owned one of the finest
vineyards near 'Ain Askala, ^ where the renowned
Hebron grapes grow. That luscious fruit always
sold at a superior price, and often we could keep
it until the Christians' Eed el Milady (Christmas),
when it fetched as high a figure as three piastres
a rottel. ^ How I loved the beautiful shade under
the pomegranate and fig-trees of 'Ain Askala !
But my star led me elsewhere. As a rule, we
would not sell the grapes to Jews and Christians,
as they generally transformed them into wine and
spirits, and this despite the fact that the Jews
Uving in Hebron often offered us high prices.
Rather than do that we preferred to make Dibs, *
and boil the fruit into Tabikh 'eneb^ for our own
use in winter and for sale in villages and towns.
When the grapes had been pressed in the old
cuttings in the rocks, which, with vineyards, are as
old as humanity, we boys used to suck the sweet
juice as it flowed down into the pitchers below.®
I always thought that the rocks and vineyards
which had belonged to my ancestors and were
never out of repair could never change hands.

1 Full of peril.

2 The brook of Eshcol where Joshua found the fine grapes.
Numbers xiii. 23.

' Five pence for six and a half pounds. * Treacle.

5 Preserved grapes, « Deuteronomy xxxii. 13.

284 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

But we must bow down and accept what was
written from Eternity ! Little did I know that
soon we should have to abandon home and
heritage and, fleeing from the land of our fathers,
never again handle the small Dibs-Kaakeer, ^
never again taste our good fruit and drink our own
water near the tombs of our Lords and Ladies,
Abraham, Isaac, Joseph, Sarah and Lea — on
whom be peace !

" Usually we remained two to three months in
the small house and huts of our vineyard, and
when the harvest was over and all was ready in
pots, my father and I would start off and sell our
produce, either for cash or for wheat, barley,
butter and the Hke, which in turn we sold in the
Hebron market. Thus, when still young, did I
learn the art of trading.

" One dark night, when the rainy season was
almost at our door and much work yet remained
to be done in the vineyard, where there was a fine
crop of winter grapes, we were suddenly awakened
by unaccustomed sounds, as of men stealthily
coming in our direction. As quick as thought
we reached for our swords, but no sooner had we
done so than armed and thickly masked men
stood above us and with vigorous blows stunned
us. The fingers on their covered mouths and their
swords held menacingly above our heads were
arguments which needed no further explanation.

* Pots made in Hebron.

AMONGST ROBBERS 285

Dumb with terror, my father, mother and
two sisters lay motionless, their eyes half open,
their faces as pale as death. The wild eyes of the
robbers, looking daggers at us, seemed to say :
* Stir if you dare ! ' Of course, it was useless to
think of resisting, or attempting to caU for help —
that would have meant immediate death. So
we let our assailants have their way. Soon,
quite distinctly, we could hear the cutting of the
grapes, the loading of animals, the whispering of
many men, and, finally, the retreat of the whole
band. But before they left us we were bound
hand and foot with our own turbans and girdles.
Bleeding from our wounds, we had to disentangle
ourselves as best we could. It was not until
daylight that we got free of our bonds and began
to try to find out in which direction the robbers
had gone. That would have been an easy task
here, on the sandy plain ; but along the stony
roads of Djebel el Khaleel it was impossible to find
a single trace of them. In vain we asked passers-
by, but nobody had seen any suspicious-looking
camel-drivers. So my father, though suffering
from the wound on his head and exhausted through
the night's adventure, set out with me in the
direction of Jerusalem, the only likely market to
which thieves would venture to take stolen goods.
When we had walked for fully two hours, we
stopped at 'Ain 'Arrub, the great spring intended
from time immemorial to supply Jerusalem with

286 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

healthy water. ^ Sitting down at the small
Kahwy, 2 we asked for coffee, and, whilst sipping
the hot beverage, put questions. The Kah-
wadjy told us that he had seen many troops
passing, bands of camels loaded with wood,
Karami, ^ charcoal, vegetables and grapes — an
endless procession of people and things on their
way to the Jerusalem market. He had noticed
five men with four camels and a donkey ; they
were armed and carried grapes in Shakadeef * —
a curious way of transporting fruit — and, unlike
the other passers-by, they were in a hurry. By
the light of his dim lantern, he noticed that one
of the men had a very dark and unkempt beard,
and he thought that he recognised him to be
from Dura, south of Hebron, where no grapes
are grown. ' Allah yen ^al Abu-1-Khayen— God
curse the father of the thief ! ' he added to him-
self, and then, in a louder tone : * But I am no
detective. You know the proverb : " Kuthur il
'haki Khibi-wa-giletahu hiby,— Much talk is a
nuisance ; little is respectful." '

" We had learnt enough. My father decided
that it was best not to follow ; to have done so
would probably have led to a fight, in which we
should surely have been killed. So we returned
home. . . . Two days later, some people of

^ A work which Herod the Great partly carried out and which
has been awaiting completion by a modern engineering genius
for twenty centuries.

* Roadside inn. ' Stumps. * Wooden cages.

THE HEBRON MARKET 287

Dura, with camels and Shakadeef, passed Hebron.
We exchanged looks and both parties understood.
But what redress had we ? To have taken the
matter to the courts would have been mere waste
of time and money. Where is the proof without
Majidis ? No ; we knew of a better way than
that of settling accounts.

" On a market day, about a fortnight later, some
of our Ghareem,! as we now called the thieves,
came to Hebron to sell he-goats and Samn. My
father went to ask them their prices, fully deter-
mined to kick up a row. Butchers, tanners,
grocers, Fellahin and Fellahat, and a few soldiers
composed the dense crowd about the pool of
Hebron, where all public transactions take place.
The skins of the he-goats killed there ^ were sold
to the tanners, who have a reputation for making
the best Throuf,^ as well as the smaller Kirbies,
in the whole country. Walking up to one of the
Dura men whom he suspected of having been the
leader of those who had deprived us of the pleasure
of making Dibs that year, my father said he
wanted a good big Tharf, * made of the skin of one
of the he-goats of Dura, to put his Dibs in. And
as he stated his requirements he looked wildly
into our enemy's eyes.

** ' In-sha- Allah,' replied the man ironically,

* Antagonists. ^ Cf. II. Samuel iv. 12.

* Large skin oil or water bottles.

* Singular of Throuf.

288 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

* I'll provide for your Dibs next year. I have
good camels and . . . ' But before he had time
to utter another word my father's Shibriy6
flashed from its scabbard. 'It is this Tharf
I want — Ya tais — Oh! he-goat!' exclaimed my
father, as the long blade entered the rogue's body
up to the very hilt.

" In the confusion which followed, we escaped
and at once left the town, taking with us a few
of the most necessary articles of clothing. That
evening we reached Beth-Jibrin, where my mother
and sisters soon joined us with every portable
household implement. But the people of Dura
soon found out our retreat and we again moved to
Gaza, where we had relatives. In our movements
from place to place, we quickly came to know the
country and people, and had no difficulty in finding
opportunities for trade. After a time, however,
we found that Gaza — a town we very much liked
on account of its austere Moslem population, as
yet free from foreigners — was not far enough away
from our persecutors. So we set off once more,
this time to Lydda, for we townsmen cannot easily
live among the Fellahin. It is all right to be
with them for a night or two, but we do not care
to keep company with them longer. They have
none of our habits. They live mostly on vege-
tables and oil and dried fruit, whilst we townsmen
like a good plate of Ma'hshy,^ with now and then

^ Rice and hashed meat, rolled in vine leaves.

TRADING IN VILLAGES 289

yakhny^ and even bread. Besides, we are born
traders, and it is only in towns that we can do
good business by buying and selling goods.

** When we were found out by the officials,
continual bribery was the only way to get rid of
them. By means of our Hebron relatives we sold
our vineyard and our home, in order to pay, pay,
pay — until we had nothing left. Then we were
abandoned. But our Ghareem never detected us.
In Lydda it was easier to pass unnoticed than in
Gaza, where the darker Philisto-Egyptian popula-
tion formed a striking contrast to people of our
fair complexion. But Lydda contained too many
Christians for our liking. EstabUshed long ago
in the country, they were keen competitors in our
trade. They not only carried shirting and silk.
Abbas and shoes to the villagers on their donkeys,
they even carried prickly pears and melons in
the mountain villages round about. And so we
again set off on our travels. Our next place of
residence was the more Moslem town of Nablus.
There the population more resembled the Hebron-
ites ; they were stern believers, disdaining inter-
course with the viler and poorer class of Christians ;
and, besides, the town was an industrial one. If
Hebron could boast of its glass bracelets, its big
he-goat skins, and its fine grapes ; if Gaza was still
the grainery of Palestine ; if Lydda was reputed
for its oil markets and mat industry, Nablus could

* Meat and vegetables.

290 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

point with pride to its soap manufactories, one of
the most important factors of the wealth of that
prosperous inland town. Then we must not
forget that the Zbeeb^ and Samn of Es-Salt,
beyond Jordan, in addition to the Hauran wheat,
stored there for further importation, have enriched
many a Nablusite.

" But the unsettled state of Palestine, due to
strife among the Fellahin, hindered the country's
free development and was the reason for our
business being stopped for years. Once, when on
a commercial journey to Jerusalem, we were
robbed at 'Ain el ^Haramiyeh, half-way to that
town, of all our goods. We appealed to a few
powerful Shiukh of Selun (Shiloh), Sinjil ^ and Jibia
(Gibeah), but found that it was better policy to
* grin and bear it,' since the baksheesh was equiva-
lent to a second robbery. Consequently we took
other measures in future, and never went on
j ourneys except in fairly large companies.

" Now, the continual moving about and exile
from our dear home had an ill-effect on my father's
health, and thus, instead of being laid to rest in
the Turby^ near our Haram, he had to be buried
far from his native country. How we longed to
return there ! The fertile valley of Nablus with
its enormous nut-trees, the fruit of all kinds,
the olive-groves out in the plain, the droves of
cattle and sheep, roaming over the stubble,

1 Raisins. ^ From the Crusader St. Gilles. ^ Cemetery.

ANCIENT RITES 291

continually reminded us of the neighbourhood of
Hebron. A beautiful country indeed, but despite
its beauty and the twelve springs which supply
the town with an abundance of water, we could
not forget our own town and district. Instead of
the Siknaj ^ of Hebron, who form a lively part
of the population of that town, we had the quiet
and exclusive sect of Samaritans, the smallest
religious community in the world, who go mys-
teriously to their holy mountain on Gerizim and
perform mysterious rites. In Hebron we possessed,
besides the tombs of Abraham and Sarah (on
whom be peace !), Abraham's oak, visited by
thousands of Christians ; but in Nablus there is
only Jacob's Well, a much less frequented shrine.
" In course of time a Jerusalem family came to
pass a few summer months in the cool valley and
lived next door to us. The womenfolk became
friends and we were invited to visit them when in
Jerusalem. Our friendship ended in marriage.
A young man of the family and myself exchanged
sisters. Thus we aU went to live in Jerusalem,
of which town I am now a citizen. And I trust,
since it was not my father's privilege to lie near
Sidna Ibrahim el Khaleel, it will be my lot to Uve
and die near the Beit-el-Makdas, the second
'Haram which he built after the Kaaba at Mecca,
and before he constructed the third one at Hebron,
and be buried away from home. I came near,

1 Polish Jews.

292 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

last night, to finding a grave in the sands of this
district, but 'Ozrain^ spared me. II 'hamdu
l-illah ! — Thanks be to God ! I have attended
regular Friday services whenever I was in town.
I have fasted the thirty days of every Ramadan
since a boy of twelve. I have never omitted
my regular five prayers a day. And when down
with the fever or with ophthalmia, years ago
in Hebron, or when half stunned by robbers,
I never missed on the very next occasion recalling
the omitted prayer. I have always tried to live
in unpolluted quarters, away from Nasara^ and
Franjis. I have never bought in their shops,
though it is true they are very clean and neat,
and contain better wares than those of my own
people. But I believe in good old Islamitic ways ;
and though you have now offered hospitality in
such a kind way, this was written in the book from
Eternity. It had to come to pass ; neither you
nor I could help it.

" Many are the transformations that have taken
place in Palestine since the wild days of my youth,
when travellers could hardly venture to the next
village for fear of robbers who infested the country.
The days of Fellah Sheikhdom are over. The
Turkish authorities first set up order in the
towns ; then in the provinces. Conscription has
produced a great change. The Crimean War

^ Or 'Ozrafl. The Arabs change the final n into /, or
vice-vers§,, indifferently.
2 Native Christians.

MODERN INVASION 293

gave rights to the Allies, the French and the
English, and Christians poured in. Hebron, which
until lately had never seen a Christian living in its
precincts, has been lost to Islam. The fearful
Jews have set up colonies here on this very plain,
colonies such as Richon le Zion, Ekron and Katra,
and so forth. The Prussians have splendid settle-
ments about Jaffa, Jerusalem, Carmel, the Plains
of Sharon and Esdraelon. AUah best knows why
he allows foreign religions to come into this Holy
Land, the land of Prophets and Welies."

And lifting up his turban towards the skies,
Hassan Yaseen cried to his God : —

** Why have you rescued me from so many
perils ; from the vineyard attack in Hebron, from
battles between Kase and Yaman factions, from
the dangers and accidents of the road — why have
you let me live to see Islam, at least in the towns,
almost giving way before the Franjis and their
ideas ? "

At this point of Hassan's story, ^Hadj Imham-
mad came forward with a donkey which he had
found feeding on the scanty Haifa leaves which
grow in the sand. Our friend at once recognised
the animal as the one he had been riding when
the attack took place. His Bedawin assailants,
after having robbed him of a few golden liras and
his Abba, had taken the donkey away, but,
probably finding the beast rather cumbersome for
horsemen to steal, had abandoned it. Hassan was

294 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

glad to recover his steed, which, since it belonged
to a Mukari of Lydda, he would undoubtedly have
had to pay for had it been lost. Now, he said, he
would be able to return the animal to its owner,
after he had reached Jerusalem. His future plans,
he went on to say, were already made. Passing
by Kariet-el-Eneb, he would visit the Sheikh el
Enbowy, the representative KhaHfy of the Dsuki
order, to whose Dervishes he had secretly belonged
for many years, and would become a real Dervish
with the outward and visible signs : the pointed
woollen cap, the short spear, and the diplomas
well in evidence. He would pass the remainder of
his Ufe in or about Beit el Makdas, serving Allah ;
and whenever the Muazzin called to prayers he
would then and there pray. In short, he would
lead a holy life, and read the Koran as much as he
could, for, though he had read parts of the Book
at the Kuttab at Hebron, he was not entitled to
be called a full-fledged reader or Kari, a title which
was only given to students who could read the
114 Suras.

Ill
On the following day we set out with the embryo
Dervish to take him at least as far as Ramleh,
where he could find friends of his own religion,
So intent was he on getting to the end of his
journey that he remained silent and thoughtful
almost the whole of the way. The villages of
Zemuga, El-Kabu and others inhabited by

By permission of

The American Colony Photographers, Jerusalem

Tower of Ramleh

THE TOWER OF RAMLEH 295

Egyptian colonists of Ibrahim Pasha's days held
forth no attractions for him. Nor did he evince
much interest when, riding through the fertile
oases of Wad-Ihnain, where orange-gardens and
sugar-canes grow, old ruined buildings showed that
an older civilisation had passed that way before
the town of Ramleh was built. Round every
winding in the long sandy way leading to the fine
olive-groves of Ramleh remains of the town were
visible. There the Crusaders had fought hard to
conquer the Holy Land ; there Saladin had again
reconquered the plains. Then the stately tower
of Ramleh, a last relic of its greatness under the
Moslem, appeared in the distance.

As we rode side by side through the prickly-pear
hedged gardens — Moslem and Frank for once at
peace — we reflected on the ups and downs in the
history of this part of the country. Hassan,
probably, dreamed of the restoration in Islam's
name of all these decaying towns. We saw naught
save decadence — the passing glory of the great
Khalifs and Sultans, who won empires for Islam,
and whose power was now to be renewed in the
name of progress. But ultimately in whose
favour ? Engineers passed us, measuring and
making plans for a future railway from Jaffa to
Jerusalem. Hassan Yaseen was sick of all these
renewals. When the carriage way to Jerusalem
was built in 1868 and carriages rolled into Jerusa-
lem, he thought that with them Christianity and

296 THE IMMOVABLE EAST

Occidental progress had made its real entrance to
the Beit el Makdas. But, lo and behold, a new
invention replaced the old. What had this iron road
and its noisy locomotives in store for the holy
soil ? Oh ! that Allah would never allow him to
live to see all these transformations. The future,
judging by the past, looked very black to Hassan
Yaseen. Where, he asked himself, were the
'Abd-en-Nabis of the north, the Mustapha Abu-
Ghoshes of the west, Mesleh el 'Azzy, Mohammed
Dervish, the Salem Shakhturs, and the many
mighty men of forty years ago who ruled the
country and never submitted to the governors of
Jerusalem ? ''Alas ! the old times are going and
the new ones in no way embelUsh Islam," he said,
ere he disappeared in the narrow, paved streets
of Ramleh, which he preferred to the carriage road
where hotels and modern coffee-houses abounded,
with Franks, Jews and native travellers awaiting
the departure of one of the Palestine coaches,
driven by Jewish drivers.

'tfeoryc IhUip * Stm ,i^

Sir Isaac PiUiLaii & Sou s ,L'.'^,
London Sa Bath.

Tkelimdffn Oecgn!ifi}doo2> Institui^^

INDEX

Abba (Fellah mantle), 14, 15,

54, 60, 129, 224, 289
Abbasid dynasty, 252
Abdallah Obey, 117
Abdallah Saleh, 53, 54, 58
Abd-el-Kareem, 64
Abd-en-Nabis, 296
Abd-er-Rahman el Helal, 218
Abdul Medjid, 111
Abdy, 235
Abeyan (pure bred horses), 192,

217
Abigail, 279

Abimelech, Intro, xvii, 197 n^
Abraham, Intro, xiv, xviii, 24,

86, 93, 96, 214, 281, 284, 291
Absalom's pillar, 237
Abu Abed, 129
Abu Baghel, 181
Abu Braise (see Gecko), 18
Abu Dib, 179, 189
Abu-Dis, 218, 230, 232. 238, 245,

246
Abu Ehmar, 181
Abu Fahed, 179
Abu Ghirreh, 180
Abu-Ghosh (Mustapha), 296
Abu Ghrab, 195
Abu-l-Ghrair, 186
Abu Klabe, 181
Abu-1-Haradin (mountain near

Solomon's Pools), 21
Abu-1-Ehseine, 180, 190
Abu-1-Fataiess, 190
Abu Madba, 179, 180
Abu Sehan, 179
Abu Sheeby, 179
Abu Sliman, 176, 179
Abu Tansar, 177
Abu Tasbi, 177
Abu Te'hsen, 181
Abu Thor, 181
Abu Zeid, mountain, near Urtas,

113, 222
Abu-Zemoor, 249
Acca, Intro, xvii, 200

Adam, 76, 79, 80, 81, 175
, sons of, 78, 84, 153, 177,

185
Adama, 17
Adder, deaf, 147
Adonai, 84

Aduan (tribe), 25, 33, 144, 208
Aduany Bedawin, 148
Adullam, 102
Afarid (spirits), 92
Africans, north, 279
Agnus castus, 59, 279
Ahab, 128
Ai, King of, 16
'Ain 'Arrub, 285
'Ain Askala, 281, 283
Ain-el 'Asafeer, 185
'Ain el 'Haramiyeh, 290
Ain-el-Haych, 185
Ain esh-Shananeer, 186
'Ain Etan, 100, continuation

«3, 103, 109
Ain Fashkhah, 232
Ain Ghazaleh, 186
'Ain Hamdeh, near Urtas, 112
Ain-Jiddy, 185
'Ain Rimmon, 103 and »'
'Ain Saleh, 103, 109
'Ain-Shams (Beth-shemesh) , 53
'Ain-Sultan, 48
'Ain Urtas, 103 and «»
Ajalon (Yalo), 206
Ajami, 76, 77, 78, 87, 88, 89,

90, 91, 96
'Ajur, 119
'Akal or Agaal (Bedawi head

cord), 37, 210
Albanian, 199
Alfred, Prince, son of Queen

Victoria, 113
Alhim (jan), 85
AU, Sheikh Sidna, 72
'AUa, 119, 218

Ah-el-Thiab, 25, 142, 143,145,208
Allah, Intro, xv, 50, 58, 76, 78j

79, 81, 90, 175

297

298

INDEX

American colonists, 111

Amorites, 3, 5, 91

Amos, 3

Angel, monstrous, 79

Angel of Death, 82, 93

Anglure, Baron d', 13 n^

Animals in Paradise, 86

'Antar, 222

Anti-Lebanon, 140

Antioch, 107 n«

Apiaries, 279

Apocalyptical dragon, 94

Apple of Sodom, 41

Arab (modern), 247

Arab sultans, 109

Arafat. 16 «i, 19, 63

Arabia, 5, 83, 177, 193, 213

Arnold, Matthew, quoted, 98

Arnon, 106

Ascalon, 56

Asclepia gigantea, 40, 41

Ash Allheem, 187

Ashan, 103 «3

Ashdod, 52, 57, 281

Ashteroth, Intro, xv, 81, 130

Assyria, Intro, xvii

'Atareen, Harat-el, 212

Athene (Philip Baldensperger's

mare), 48
'Attar, 238
'Auja, river, 72
Aurora, 129
Azazmeh Arabs, 153
Azizis, 175, 179

Baal, Intro, xiv, xv, 5, 81, 88,

89, 90. 93, 96. 265. 275
Baal, prophets of, 88
Baal-zebub, 72
Bab-el-'Amud, 242
Bab Sitti Mariam, 237
Babylon, 71, 72
Badariyeh, 129, 130, 134
Badger, 180, 186
Baftu Hindi (song), 270
Bagdad, 252
Bairak, 195

Bakoosh, near Urtas, 112
Balkans, 276
Bard, 221

Basel Spittler Mission, Intro, viii
Bashan, 149

Batn el-Ekra', 106

Bats, 180

Battir, 60, 61, 66

Bawardi, 119

Bazaar, 213, 237

Bear, 179

Beauty, Bedawiy6, 225

Bedariyeh (Moslem Aurora),

Intro. XV
Bedawi clothing, 36
Bedawi dervish, 72
Bedawi Rascheidy, 148
Bedawi song, 24
Bedawi warrior, 29
Bedawin agriculturists, 139
Bedawin (Bedouins), Intro, viii,

X, 1 «i, 10. 17, 24-49, 99,

115
Bedawin country, 23, 49
Bedawiyat, 28, 37, 274
Bedawiy6, 46
Bedu (see Bedawin), 1 w^
Beersheba. Intro, xvii, 24. 103

«3. 153
Bees, 21, 90, 185, 278
Beit Dejan, 73
Beit-'Etab, 109
Beit-ej-Jmal, 185
Beit el Makdas, 87, 291, 294,

296
Beit-Mahsir, 76, 81, 96
Beit-Jibrim. 288
Beni Adam, 194
Beni Ehmar, 186
Beni-Israel, 249
Beni-Sakher, 149, 245
Benton. Frank, U.S. bee-keeper,

Intro. X, xi
Benjamin, 197
Beshlik, 134
Bethany, 15, 218, 240
Bethel, Intro, xvii, 16, 187, 241
Bether, 60
Bethlehem. Intro, x, xvii, xviii,

25, 99 »», 100. 102. 104, 105,

106, 107, 116, 218. 256, 257
Bethlehemite women, 119
Beth-Nimreh, 190
Beth Safafa, 128, 133, 134
Beth-Sahur, 17
Beth-shemesh, 53
Beth-Tamar, 17

INDEX

299

Beybars, Sultan, 26 « ^

Beyrack (holy standard), 265

Beyrut, Intro, xi

Bible heroes, 102

Biblical curses, 17

Biblical Researches in Palestine,

Robinson's, 99 «*, 111
Birds, 40

Bir el-Arwah (Well of Souls), 94
Bir-ez-Zeibak, 73
Birket-ej-Jamoos, 186
Birket es- Sultan, 95
Blanchegarde, 279
Bliss, Dr. F. J., American

Archaeologist, Intro, xiii
Blood on door-posts, 271
Boars, 41, 48, 180, 186
Bonaparte, 199, 200
Bowaab (black janitor of

Takrur), 61 and «i, 63
Bracelets, 233
Braise, Abu (or Gecko), 18
Brazen serpent, 145
Bread and salt, 281
Buffalo, 180, 186
Burka, 197, 201
Buzzard, 180
Byarat, 191

Cairo, 252

Cairo, Citadel of, 200 n^

Calem (pen), 247

Caletropis procera, 40

Calirrhoe, 40, 107

Camels, 24, 52, 58, 185, 269

Camp Ufe, 34

Canaan, Intro, xvi, 261

Canaanites, Intro, xiv, 3, 4, 93,

130
Carines (Greek legend), 89 «*
Carmel, Mt., Intro, xv, 87, 275,

293
Cats. 171, 180
Cavalry, Turkish, 215
Cemetery, Jewish, 237
Cemetery, Mohammedan, 68
Chameleons, 181
Chastians, 108
Cheetahs, 31 and nS 41, 45
Cherith, Brook, 149
Chinese mythology, 89 «^
Christ, Intro, xv

Christianity, 83

Christian King of Jerusalem, 107

Christian missions, 108

Christians, 82. 88, 256, 283, 293

Christmas, 283

Church of Nativity, 106

Church of the Garden, Urtas,

108
Citadel of Cairo, 200 n ^
Cities of the Plain, 17
Clermont-Ganneau, Professor,

26 «i
Cobra di capello, 146
Coffee-house, 62, 212
Colonists, American, 111

, German. Ill

Colony. German, 66

Colubridae, 145

Conder. Claude Reignier. author

of Tent Work in Palestine,

Intro, viii, 1 n^ 272
Congress. Animals', 176
Conies. 180, 186
Conscription. 292
Convent, Greek, of Elijah, 127
Convent, Latin, 130, 133
Convent of St. George, 261
Convent of St. Mary of the

Garden, Urtas, 108
Corsican, the great, 200
Cow-camel, 45
Creator of the Universe, 78
Crimean War, 292
Crocodile, 181, 186
Croesus. 16
Crusaders. 54, 107 ««, 114, 279,

295
Crusaders' Church, 113
Curtiss, S. S., Chicago Professor,

Intro, xiii
Cymbals, 259

Daboia Viper. 35, 146, 147.

148, 150, 181
Dagon, the Temple of, 73
Dair-Dubban, 186
Dair esh-Sheikh, 90
Damascus. 64, 209, 216, 227,

252, 272
Damascus Gate, Jerusalem, 61,

89, 242
Damascus road, 65, 69

300

INDEX

Damieh bridge, 26 n^

Dan, 177

Dancing, 233, 271

David, Intro, ix, 53, 91, 102,

103, 250, 272, 275, 279
David's Gate, Jerusalem, 237
David's harp, 258
Dead Sea, Intro, xvi, 39, 40, 42,

87, 91, 99 and m«, 107, 140,

148, 180, 208, 219, 232, 238
Deborah, 207
Deir el Banat, 107, 108
Deluge, 176
Dervish, 72-97, 146, 265, 275,

277, 294
Desert of Judah, 105, 136, 277
Dibs, 283, 287
Djebel-el-Khaleel, 285
Djebel - esh - Sheikh (Hermon),

99and»i, 179
Dogs, 186

Dom-apples, 36, 37, 232
Dom-meal, 35
Dom or Lotus tree {Zizyphus

spina Christi), 34, 35, 139,

144
Dome, sacred, 68
Donkey, 186
Dothan, 24

Dragomans, Intro, xiv
Draper's street, 212
Duff (timbrel), 249, 251, 259,

262, 271, 275
Dung Gate, Jerusalem, 67
Dura, 204, 286, 287
Durbukky, 259

Eagles, 180

Eastern lovers, 220

Eastern luxuries, 236

Easter songs, 257

Ebal, Intro, xv, 208

Ebn-Obeid, 17

'Ebr-en-Nisr, 185

Eden, 79

Edom, desert of, 153

Edomite princess, 103

Edomites, 105

'Eed il Milady (Christmas), 283

Egypt, Intro, xvii, 24, 88, 199,

200
Egypt, song of, 269

Egyptian colonists, 295
Egyptian princess, 103, 198, 201,

206, 273
Egypt, river of, 201
Ehmad, 39

Ehmad, Abu, the Fellah, 7, 8
Ehmad Jabber, 52, 53, 58,

64
Ekron, 72, 293, 279
Eleagnus angustifolius, 42
Eleazar, 55

Elijah, Greek Convent of, 127
Ehjah the Tishbite, Intro, xiv,

XV, 12, 66, 87, 265
El Arroub, 105
El-Azhar (Cairo), 252
El Badawi (leadex of Dervish

order), 79
El Dsuki (leader of Dervish

order), 79, 294
El Enbowy, 294
El Erfa'i (leader of Dervish

order), 79, 146
El Ghor, 99
El Hammam, 106
El Kabu, 294
El Kadri (leader of Dervish

order), 79
El Khadr (St. George), 87, 261
El Kuds esh Shareef (Jerusalem),

78, 94
Emmaus, 107
Endor, witch at, Intro, xiv
Engedi. 190
Engiddy, 17
Ephraim, 180
Er-Rahib, 93
'Esa (Jesus), 82
Esculap, 35, 145, 181
Esdraelon, 23, 24, 293
Esdud (Ashdod), 281
Etam, 57, 99 n», 100, 103, 104,

106
Ethmane Abd-el-Hei, 52, 53,

57
Ethmane el-Lahame, 200
Euphrates, 177, 187
Eve, 76, 80
Evil eye, 122
Executions, 16

Fabri, Felix, 105 ««

INDEX

301

Faghur, in Wady el Biar, 112

Fardies, 43. 44

Fatme, 52

Fate (Naseeb), 75

Fate, 248, 282

Fatiha, 129

Fauna and Flora, 17

Feast of Booths, 256

Fellah, Intro, viii, x, 1-16 and

n\ 1, 18, 24, 25, 27. 35, 39,

44. 48, 54. 55, 57, 61. 64, 66
Fellaha, 33. 250
Fellahat. 28, 44, 61
Fellah-el-Hitr, 24
Fever. 292

Fiddle, one-stringed, 221
Finjan 'Kahwy (poisoned

coffee-cup). 216
Finn. Mr., British Consul at

Jerusalem, 113
Fleas. 186
Flies. 186

Flora in August, 279
Fortuna, 74

Fountain, sealed, 103, 262
Fox (Abu Sliman), 176
Fox, 186
Francolins, 40
Franji, 74

Franjis, 281, 292. 293
Frank, 37, 91
Frank mountain, near Urtas,

105. 112
Freer, A. Goodrich, Author of

Inner Jerusalem, Intro, xiii
French. 293

Friday Fair. Jerusalem. 237, 239
Frogs. 40
Frogs of Jericho, 139

Gabriel, Angel, 19. 95. 192
Galilee. 149

Gardens of Solomon. 98-114
Gaza, Intro, x, xvii, 52, 56, 88.

153. 278, 288, 289
Gazelles, 180. 186
Geba, 103 ««
Gecko {Ptyodactylus hassel-

quisii). 18, 181
Gederoth (Katra). 279
Gehazi. Intro, xvii
Genii (Jan), Intro, xiv. 75

at — (2131)

Gerizim. 208

Gerizim, Mt.. 291

Gethsemane. 241

Gezer. 104

Ghalie. 33, 39

Ghaliun (pipe). 38

Ghazu (marauding excursions),

23, 152. 191. 210
Ghareem, 115.287. 289
Ghawarneh Bedawin, 179, 243
Ghul. 86. 92
Gibeah, Intro, xviii
Gihon, Pool of, 95 n«
Gilboa, 275
Gipsies, 261
Girdle, history of the, in the

East, 12 and 13 n^
Girls, dancing, 262
Glass bracelets, 289
Goats, 23

Gobat, Bishop, Intro, ix
Gods, 81
Goliath, 53 272
Golden Gate, Jerusalem, 64,

67
Golden Calf. 271
Gomorrah. 17. 41
Gospel (Ingile), 82
Graineries, 23
Grainery of Palestine. 289
Grapes of Eshcol, 282
Grapes (Hamdany), 60
Greece, Intro, xvii
Greek convent, 237. 241
Greeks, Intro, xv, 91
Greek ossuary. 94
Greengrocer. 131
Guardian spirits. 86
Gublem Sheikh, 213

Hadj Abdallah. 234

Hadj Imhammad Abu Bekr.

63
Hadr, 191
Hadrabad. 270
Hagar, 32
Hajeen. 180

Hakimy (doctoress). 282
Halawy, Harat el, 213
HaUm6, 52

Hamdany (Palestine grapes), 60
Hamdiyeh, 34

302

INDEX

Hamulies (groups of families),

115
Hamzy. Sheikh, 281
Hanash, 35, 145, 195
Haram, Jerusalem, 68, 230. 290,

291
Hardon (Stellio-agamide lizard),

1 and «!, 2, 18-22, 59,
Haroot, the Angel, 71, 76
Hassanbaki (tobacco), 38
Hassan, Ehmad, 117
Hattin. 105 «», 108
Hauran, 290

Hawi (serpent-charmers), 4
Hazazon-Tamar, 17
Head veil, 34
Hebrew Bible. 72
Hebrews, 4, 5, 91, 95
Hebron bracelets, 233
Hebron, Intro, x, xvii, 88, 109,

110, 281, 284
Hedgehog, 180
Hegira, 18, 19, 87
He-goat skins, 287
'Heisoon, 192
Helwy, 119, 234
Hemyarite dynasty, 259
Hermon, Mt., 25, 99, 140. 198,

286. 291
Herod the Great, 104. 105. 106.

107, 286 ni
High places, 81
Hinnom. Valley of. 67, 94, 95,

103 «*
Hittites, 3, 5
Hivites. 3. 4
Holy rock. 265
Honey, thyme, 100 w^
Horses, 180, 185, 192
Horsemen, Bedawin, 208
Hortus Conclusus, 107
Houris, 80
Hyanas, 144, 151, 160, 164,

179, 182, 185, 279
Hymettus, Mt, 100 n^

Ibex, 180. 185, 190
Iblis (see Satan), 78, 79, 91
Ibrahim-et-Taiesh, 116, 128
Ibrahim Pasha, 111, 200, 206,
Ichneumon, 180, 279, 295
Imhammad-et-Talak, 25, 35

Im-Imhammad. 42, 43, 47

Indians. 123

Inglle (the gospel). 82

In-sha-Allah. 97

Isaac. 24, 284

Isaiah, Intro, xiv

Ishmael, 32, 86, 93

Ishmaelites, 213

Islam. 5, 6, 80, 293

Islam, holy colours of, 80

Israel, children of, 66. 213

Israelites. 3, 5, 86, 105, 130,

136, 252, 277
Israelitic tombs, 206

Jabbar, 4
Jabber, 123
Jabber-es-Saleh, 128
Jabburim (or Rephaims), 4
Jacob, Intro, xviii, 16 «*, 24,

251
Jacob's Well, 291
Jaffa, Intro, x, xvii, 56, 60, 96,

201. 281, 293
Jaffa Gate, Jerusalem, 16 n^,

61, 67, 131
JahaUne Arabs, 153
Jan, 37, 41, 75, 79, 81, 83, 84,

85, 87, 88, 90, 93
Jarrab, 191
Jackal, 34, 57, 139, 144, 151,

170, 180, 276, 279.
Jamel ed Din ebn Nahar, 26
Jehunum (Hell), 80
Jerboas, 48
Jerusalem railway, 60
Jews, 81, 82, 84, 89, 105, 256,

257. 283, 291
Jebel 'Arafat, 19
Jebusites, 3, 4, 5, 91
Jehovah, Intro, xiv, 17, 85, 103,

250, 273
Jephthah's daughter, 252, 262
Jeremiah, Intro, xviii, 3, 31
Jericho, 17, 48, 139. 141, 143,

144, 243
Jerusalem, Intro, x, xv, xvii,

15, 49, 50. 57, 58, 60, 61, 62,

70, 76, 87, 95, 99 n», 103 n»,

104, 106, 108, 109, 110, 113,

115, 220, 229, 230, 235, 239,

250, 256, 269, 281, 286, 293

INDEX

303

Jesus Hilf, 126

Jesus, 87, 107

Jewish colonies, 279

Jewish fortress, 17

Jezreel, 23

Jibia (Gibeah), 290

Job's Well, 126

Jonadab, 8

Jonah, 19 ni, 86

Jonas, Prophet, 278

Jonathan, 275

Jones, D. A., U.S. bee-keeper,

Intro. X
Jordan, Intro, x, 23. 25-31, 33,

41, 44, 45, 46, 48, 49, 99, 128,

140. 147, 208, 243, 280
Joseph, Intro, xviii, 284
Joseph and his Brethren, 262
Tosephus, 40, 103 and «», 104
Joshua, Intro, xiv, 3, 16
Jrab (leather bag), 66
Jubal, 248
Judaea, 24, 48
Judaean village, 233
Judah, mountain of, 278
Judah, 4, 91, 96, 103 n», 105,

109
Judah, desert of, 91, 105, 277
Judges, tombs of, 94
Judgment Day, 72, 80, 83, 88,

193
Julfa, 192
Jumad the First, 26
Junis, Naby, 278
Jum el Wawy, 186

Kaaba, 83, 176, 263, 291

Kadri, El Oioly order of), 79

Kadriye, 218

Kafer (Infidel), 132

Kafir (agriculturist, inhabitant

of the Kefr), 5
Kafiye (Bedawi head-dress) , 37,

210
KafErain, 31, 33. 35, 36, 39, 44
Kaftan, 119
Kahwadji (coffee-house keeper),

62, 131, 286
Kaiat el-Burak, 101
Kamanjy (fiddle), 258
Kanoot (harp), 251, 258
Karassat, 191

Kariny (evil spirit), 89 and n' ,

90
Kari (scholar), 294
Kaseedy, 248, 259
Kedar, tents of, 151
Kedeesh, 180, 191
Kedron, 48, 91, 93, 237
Kerak, 272
Kersanne, 191
Kesi (tribe), 110
Khadr, El (St. George), 87, 124,

192
Khalawy, 192
Khaleef, 146
Khaleel. 39

Khaleel Abu-1-Ghreir, 116
Khaleel Ibrahim, 51, 52, 53,

55, 58, 59, 120
Khalet eth Theeb, 186
Khamsy, 192
Khan, 132, 238, 245
Khanafer, 42
Khateeb (village priest), 11,

120, 124
Khatify, 243
K'hailane, 217
K'hailet (pure-bred), 212
K'harlet el-'Ajouss, 217
Khirbet el Asad, 186
Khirbet el Wahar, 186
Khirbet, Na'hleh 185
Khirbet el-Khokh. 100, con-
tinuation «', 103
Khirby (ruin), 1 n^
Khirkah (head-dress), 13
Khurshud Pasha, 208
King of Beasts, 177, 178
King of Birds, 177, 178
King of trees, 178
Kirby (leather water-bottle),

1 «i, 9, 10, 28 and n^. 29,

30, 44, 287
Kohl, 225

Koran, 71, 80, 96, 115
Kowthar (river in Eden), 79
Krad (spirits), 92
Kuds esh-Shareef (Jerusalem),

78

Laban, 16 n^

Labban, 235

Land of Prophets. 293

304

INDEX

Lapis infernalis (Kutra), 282
Lea, 284

Lebanon, 25, 140, 178
Leopards, 60. 179, 186, 190
Leprosy, 18

Leproserie de St. Lazare, 126
Lime-kiln, 268
Literature (Arab), 252
Lizards, 17
Lotus-tree, 35
Lot, 87

Lot, Sea of, 91

Lubbaad (article of dress), 52
Lusignan, Guy of, 108
Lydda, 73, 186, 197, 206, 207,
288. 289

Macalistek, R. a. Stewart,
Author of The Excavation of
Gezer, Intro, xiii

Machabees, 91

Macpelah, Intro, xvii

Madani, 63

Magic, Books of, 72

Mahmood II, Sultan, 111

Ma'hshy. 288

Makam (High-place), 5, 6, 87

Malaria, 40, 49, 279

Malha, 66

Mamaluke, 200

Mamilla, 91, 273

Mamilla (Pool of), 89

Mared, 92

Mar Elias, 127

Mandeel (handkerchief), 233

Marauders, 279

Maritime Alps, 98

Maroot, the Angel, 71, 76

Mary, son of, 82

Mary Magdalene, 83

Marghub, 192

Marriages, 272

Marshes, 279

Market at Hebron, 287

Masada, 17

Mashani, 115

Mastiguer, 17, 40

Mat industry. 289

Maundrell, writer on Palestine,
101

Mawaal (song), 263, 274

Mazmoor (psalm), 251, 275

Mecca, 5, 63, 83, 87, 95. 192

263, 291
Medina, 5

Mediterranean, 98, 140, 204
Mehjam6 (hooked almond stick)

14 «i, 73
Mehemet Ali, 199, 200
Me'hla (dance), 262
Me'hloot, 272
Mehrab (prayer-niche), 77
Melchizedek, Intro, xvi, 214
Merom, 177
Meshullam, Mr., 106, 111, 113,

114
Meshullam, Mr. Peter, 112 and

Messiah, 257

Mesleh el'Azzy, 296

Micah, 3, 21, 22«»

Michal, 273

Middle Ages, 109

Millet, Syrian, 204

Miriam, 248, 252

Moab. Intro, x, 23, 25, 33, 99,

128, 144. 147, 245
Moabite princess, 103
Mo'alakat, 263
Mohammed, Intro, xv, 5, 18, 54,

87, 89, 94. 192
Moloch, 93, 95
Moon worship. 264
Moosa. 122

Moriah, Intro, xvii, 48, 86
Moroccans, 279
Moses, 73, 81, 85, 86. 218. 219.

273
Mosque of Omar, 68
Mosque of Urtas, 109
Mosque of Jerusalem, 109
Mosque of the Holy Rock, 236
Moslems, 82, 88, 91
Mosquitoes. 29, 139, 176. 279
Motawakkil, Caliph, 12 »*
Mough arid-Khalid, 106
Mourning songs, 263, 274
Muhammad Moosa, 50, 51, 52.

55, 57, 58, 66
Muhammet-el Misleh, 200
Mu'hrab, 150
Mukari. 294
Murra (warrior), 259
Musical instruments, 259

INDEX

305

Mustapha Abu Ghosh, 200
Mustapha Shahini, 120

Naaman, Intro, xvii

Nablus (Neapolis). 208, 210,

211, 289, 290, 291
Naboot, 29, 53, 102, 123, 280
Naboth, 138 n 2
Nabi-Ibrahim, 281, 282
Naby Daoud (tomb of David),

91
Naby-Moosa, 219, 265
Naby-Rubin, 72
Nahal, 279
Na'hash, 145, 195
Nahr Barghut, 186
Nahr-el-Kalb, 186
Nahr-et-Tamsa'h, 186
Nahr Rubin, 278
Nahr Sukreir, 278
Naker (examining angel), 124
N'amy, 34
Napoleon I, 199
Narghile, 62
Nasara, 292
Naseeb, 282
Nasra, 202
Nazarenes, 257
NeapoUs (Nablus), 208
Necromancer, 260
Nehemiah, 103 n^, 273, 275
Neiye, 32, 58, 102, 117. 194, 249.

251. 259, 262, 275
Nejd, 192, 249
Nekb el-Khale, 185
New moon solemnities, 277
Nimrin, 144, 185, 208
Nineveh, 83

Nker (examining angel), 124
Noah, 176, 248
No'h (song), 263, 274
Nowairi (Arab historian), 26 n ^
Nuns' Convent (Urtas), 107

Oak tree, 181
Oak. Abraham's, 291
Obeidiye (nomadic tribe). 17 w*
Occidental progress, 296
Oleaster {Eloeagnus angusti-

folius), 42
Olives, Mount of. 15. 89, 91,

95, 104, 140, 236, 240

2IA — (2I31)

Olivet. Mt.. 48

Olive groves, 295

Omar. Mosque of. 68

Omar Ibn Khattab. Khalif, 109,

265
Omar. Mosque of, 68, 230
Omniad dynasty. 252
Ophel. 67

Ophidians, family of, 145
Ophthalmia, 282
Orange gardens, 295
Oriental sagacity. 252
'Oshair (see Asclepia gigantea),

41
Ostrich feathers, 141
Othman, Abu, 7
Ottoman pound, 120 »?*
Owls, 181
'Ozrael (Angel of Death), 82, 93,

94, 292

Palestine coaches, 296
Palestine Exploration Fund.

Intro, xiii. 26. 99
Paradise, 76, 83, 173, 175
Pentateuch (Torah). 71
Perez (village), 4
Perizzites, 3, 4, 5, 6, 9
Phantoms. 91
Pharaoh. Intro, xvii
Philip's Well (near Welejeh). 61
PhiUstia. Intro, x. 52, 153, 187
Philistines, 56, 57, 73
Pipes, 39

Plain of Esdraelon. 293
Plain of Salem, 214
Plain of Sharon. 72. 140. 293
Plain of Sittim, 144
Plain of Rephaim, 57, 66
Platon, Hugues, quoted, 108
Pomegranates. 101, 283
Prayer-niche. 150
Prickly pears. 289
Proverbs, 24, 44, 153, 155, 157.

158, 161, 164, 168, 170. 171,

172. 173
Psanimosaurus scincus, 17
Ptyodactyhis hasselquisH, 18

Quarterly Statement. Palestine
Exploration Fund. Intro. xU,
xiii, 26 « 1, 272

306

INDEX

Queen Victoria, 113

Rababy (fiddle), 223, 250, 258,

259, 263
Rabbins, 99
Rabee, 98, 99, 121, 191
Rachel, Intro, xiv, 15, 119
Rachel's tomb, 123, 136. 273
Rauwolffus, Dr. Leonardus,

botanist, quoted, 109
Ravens, 276
Razek, Abu, father of town and

city traders, 7
Railway to Jerusalem, 60
Ralston, Philip, 139
Ramadan, 80, 173, 292
Ramleh, 73, 88, 294, 295
Rams, flock of, 169
Rasads (guardian spirits), 86,

90, 92
Rebecca, 15

Redeemer, Convent of the, 133
Red Sea, 81, 248
Rephaims, 3, 4
Rephaim, Plain of, Intro, xv,

57, 66, 127
Rehoboam, 99 n », 105
Reuben, Prophet, 278
Rhamnus nabeca, 144
Rib'i, 115
Richon-le-Zion, 293
Robinson, Edward, Biblical Re-
searches in Palestine, quoted,

99n3, 111
Rock, Holy, 265
Rod of Moses, 73
Romans, Intro, xv, 91, 106
Rome, Intro, xvii
Roses, Valley of the, 61
Rubin, Naby, 72
Rubin (river), 72, 278
Ruins, 16 and n i, 17, 276
Ruth, 25

Sa'ada, 120

Sa' ad-el- Kanaas, 39, 41

Sabe (the Lion), 164

Sabeel, 128

Safed, Intro, xv, 88

Sahak (dance), 271

Sa'hjy (dance), 121, 270, 271

Saiara (processions), 265

Said el-Ma* ati, 221, 246
Said-es-Saleh, 130
Sakhra (Holy Rock). 94, 265
Saklawy, 192
Saladin, 108, 295
Saleh-el-Kaak, 25. 26. 34, 39
Salem er Ra'hmane, 1 18
Salem, Plain of. Intro, xvi. xvii,

214
Salem Shakhtur. 296
Samson. 57
Samn, 165. 287. 290
Samaritan Jews. Intro, xv. 208
Samuel, Intro, xiv, xviii
Sand-partridges, 40
Saracenic castle (Urtas). 101
Saracens. 108
Sarah, Intro, xviii, 121. 197 «^

284. 291
Sar'ah. 204
Sarrar, Wad-es, 57
Satan (Esh-Shit4n er-Rajeem),

16 n 1, 75. 76
Saul, Intro, xiv, 120, 272, 273,

275
Sawahry (nomadic tribe), 17 n*,

245
Saye (part of Bedawi clothing),

36, 37
Schmaar, 14 and n^, 52, 54
Sealed fountain (Urtas), 103
Sea of Lot, 91

Se'in (small Kirby or water-
bottle), 44, 47
Seir, 110

Selim (Shiloh), 290
Senegal doves. 34
Sentinels. Turkish, 67
Seraiya, 118, 132
Serpent, Brazen, 145
Serpents, 176, 185
Seville, 192
Shaale (cloak). 54, 210
Shabbaby (wind instrument),

259
Shahini, 115. 120
Shairim (satyrs). 81. 82, 92
Sharkiye (East wind). 36
Sharon, 23, 24, 72
Shaiateen, 91
Shechem, 208
Sheep, fat-tailed, 23

INDEX

307

She'er (poetry). 264. 272, 273

Sheikh 'Awad, 122

Sheikh Hamzy, 282

Sheikh Salem, 119

Sheikh Sidna 'Ali, 72

Sheikh. 11

Sherif Moosa, 50, 54. 57

Shibriyeh (double-edged dagger),

53, 241, 288
Shittim, 23
S'hoon (cymbals), 259
Shushey (hair-tuft), 54
Shuweikeh (Shochoh). 53. 54,

279
Siddim. Plain of, Intro, xvi
Sidr (Dom-apples), 144
Siknaj (Pohsh Jews), 291
Siloam, 15, 26, 27, 95, 126, 237,

240
Sinai, 249
Sinai, Mt, 85
Sinjil (St. Gilles), 290
Sisters, Catholic, 126
Sisters, Protestant, 126
Sitti Mariam, 241
Sittim, Plain of, 144
Sit-Ikhwithah, 197
Slaughtering place, 168
Sliman, 120
Small-pox. 261
Smugglers, 64
Snoonoo, 178
Sodom, 17, 41
Solomon, 71, 82, 86, 87, 90, 99

«», 103. 104, 186
Solomon, Gardens of, 98-114
Solomon's Pools, Intro, x, 21,

100. continuation n'. 101,

106, 109, 110, 114, 115, 118
Solomon, Song of, 60, 100 n\

101
Solomon, throne of, 71
Songs and dances. 247
Song of Joseph. 275
Soofara (wind instruments), 259
Sorek. vale of (Wad-es-Sarrar).

57
Sonfaan, 51
Sour milk, 240
Sparrows. 185
Squills, 277
Steeds. Arab. 217

Stellio cordilina, 18

St. George, 73. 87. 262

St. Jean d'Acre. 108

St. Mary's Gate, 237

St. Stephen's Gate, Jerusalem,

65, 67, 69, 237
Stones, witness, 16 n *
Stradivarius, 250
Sugar-cane. 295
Suk el 'Attarin. 234, 238
Suk el-Khawajat. 240
Suk el-Lahamin, 234, 238
Sultan Wakham (malaria), 279
Suras (the 114). 294
Surma (sheep-leather shoes),

54
Swallow, 176
Swelem, Abu, 7
Syrian millet, 204

Ta'amry (nomadic tribe), Intro.

ix, nii\ 110, 111, 115, 119,

273
Tabon (oven), 22
Tacitus, 40
Tahleel (prayers), 277
Takiyeh (white cap), 51
Takrur, 61
Tancred, 107
Tanib, 116
Tanour, 109
Tarbush, 13, 52. 55
Tarsha, 146, 147
Tekoa, 17, 99k». 105. 112
Tell-el Ehseiny, 186
Tell-el-Kadi, 177
Tell-es-Safi (Blanchegarde), 279
Templars, 108
Temple, 67, 70. 236
Thab or Mastiguer {Uromastix

spinipes), 17 and 18
Thar. 116. 118
Themudians. 93
Thob (shirt), \n^, 11, 17, 51,

55, 69, 119
Throuf (skin bottles). 287
Tiberias. 85. 107
Timbrel (duff), 249, 251, 277
Tobacco, 35, 37, 57, 58, 144
Tobba Hassan, 259
Tochen, 103 w»
Tombak (Persian tobacco), 62

308

INDEX

Tomb-caves, 205

Torah (Pentateuch), 71, 81, 84,

248
Tower of Ramleh, 295
Trading in villages, 289
Trans jordanic region, 141-147
Treacle, 283
Tribes of Israel, 248
Tribunal at Jerusalem, 124
Tristram, Canon, Fauna and

Flora of Palestine, 17 «'
Tubbar (iron-headed club), 55
Tunis, 249
Turban, brown, 54
Turban, green, 52
Turtle-doves, 34, 144
Turkish army, 199
Turkish Government, 57, 282,

292
Turks, 57, 270
Typewriter (ungodly), 247
Tyrian purple, 104

Ululation, 121 «!, 231, 272
Universe, Creator of, 78
Uromastix spinipes, 18
Urtas, Intro, viii, x, 99 and n ',
100 and n\ 101, 103-126

Vale of Sorek, 57, 278
Valley of the Roses, 61, 128

of Hinnom, 67

of the Mills, 106

of Urtas, 106

of the Wells, 106

Van der Velde, Narrative of a
Journev through Syria and
Palestine in 1851 and 1852,
112 «»

Vegetables, 286

Veil, 234

Venetians, introduce vegetables
into Palestine, 113

Venus, 71

Vetches, 191

Vine and fig-tree, 252

Vineyards at Esheal, 283, 284

Viper bite, 43

charmer, 146

, Daboia, 35, 146

Vow, 261
Vultures, 144, 194

Wad-el-Bedoon, 185

Wad-el-Dab'a, 185

Wad el Khanzeer, 185

Wad en-Nar, 93

Wad er-Rahib, 93

Wad-es-Sarrar, 57, 278

Wad-es-Sumt, 278

Wad et Tawaheen, 103 n », 106

Wad-Faria, 214

Wadies, 279

Wady-Ali, 205

Wad Ihnain, 295

Wadyel-Biar, 106, 107, 112

Wady Esmain, 59

Wady Kelt, 149

Wady-Urtas, 107

Wakham (malaria), 40, 49

Wandering bard, 221

Wandering dervish, 72

Waran (Psammosaurus scincus),

17. 278
War song. 273
Water of eternal life, 76
Watta (camel-hide shoes), 51
Wawy, 190
Wayfarers, 280
Weapon, 53
Welejeh. 61, 66
Wely (see Makam), 5, 76, 79,

81, 88, 293
Well of souls, 94
Whale of Jonah, 86
Wheat- weUs, 151
Wilderness feasts, 278
Wilderness of Judah, 266
Will-o'-the-wisp, 42
Winter evening games, 264
Winter grapes, 284
Wolf, 179
Wolves, 144
Women of Israel, 272

Yabneel (Yebna), 281
Yahia (the commentator), 71
Yahoor (Jews), 257
Yalo (Ajalon), 206
Yaman (faction). 259, 293
Yamani (tribe), 110
Yarghool (instrument), 259
Yarmuth, 103 «="
Yemen, 259
Yesmafn 'Ah. 53, 55, 58, 60

INDEX

309

Za'ara (viper), 147
Zaghartt, 121
Zaghroot, 121, 272
Zamenis carbonarius, 145
Xamenis viridiflavus, 19 «^
Zaqum (see Oleaster), 42, 44
Zbeeb (dried grapes), 290
Zeboim, 17

Zechariah, Intro, xiv, 103 n *
Zeer (warrior), 259, 261
Zeinati, 222

Zerka, 181

Zernuga, 294

Zion, Intro, ix, x, 48, 89, 91, 93,

94
Zion's Gate, Jerusalem, 67, 237
Zizyphus spina Christi, 35, 36
Zoar, Intro, xvi, 17
Zoomara, 249, 251
Zorah, 204
Zoreah, 56, 103 n»

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