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EDINBURGH:
FUI.LARTOX AND MACKAB, PltlKTKRS, LKITH WALK.
INTRODUCTION-
A view of Scotland, introductory to a copious Gazetteer, must necessarily be very general.
Every natural, political, and ecclesiastical division of the country, each great cluster of
islands, every chain of heights and remarkable mountain or hill, each lake and river and
arm of the sea, every city, town, village, and conspicuous mansion, and every interesting
object, be it what it may, a landscape, an antiquity, a natural curiosity, or a work of art,
are so fully noticed in their regular places, that a general article has no scope for de-
scription, and needs not even to be studded with references. Yet such a rapid geogra-
phical outline as shall indicate the mutual relations of the parts, some details which
refer strictly to the country as a whole, and a few particulars which, while belonging to
only some localities or to classes of objects, could not, without frequent repetition, be
inserted in the body of the work, will form both suitable and pleasing materials for our
Introduction.
POSITION.
Scotland is bounded, on the north, by the great North sea ; on the east, by the German
ocean; on the south-east, by the liberties of Berwick, and by England; on the south, by the
Sol way frith and the Irish sea; and on the west, by the Atlantic ocean. The line of its
boundary on the south-east, from a point 3j miles north of Berwick to the head of the Sol-
way frith at the embouchure of the Sark, measures, inclusive of sinuosities, about 97 miles.
This line has very numerous but not great windings; and, over great part of its length, is
very capricious, and not physically marked. The curious reader may trace it by reference to
our articles on the counties of Berwick, Roxburgh, and Dumfries, whose southern boundary-
lines are identical with this. Popular language is utterly at fault in speaking of Scotland as
the part of Britain which lies north of the Tweed; that river running in the interior till 18
miles before it reaches the sea, and having on its left bank, for the last 4 of these miles, the
liberties of Berwick. Scotland, as to its mainland, lies between 54° 41' and 58° 41' north
latititude, and 1° 43' and 5° 38' west longitude; and, including its islands, it extends to
60° 49' north latitude, and 8° 55' west longitude.
EXTENT.
The greatest length of the mainland, in a line due north, or very nearly so, is from the
Mull of Galloway to Cape Wrath, and measures 274 miles. The greatest length of it in any
possible direction is from the Mull of Galloway to Dunnet-head, and measures 280 miles.
Its breadth, from St. Abb's-head in Berwickshire to the point of Knap in Argyleshire, is 134
miles; from the mouth of the South Esk in Forfarshire to Ardnamurchan-point in Argyle-
shire, is 137 miles; and from Buchanness in Aberdeenshire to the extrenrity of Applecross
in Boss-shire, is 146 miles. North of the Moray frith, the greatest breadth, from Duncansby-
head to Cape- Wrath, is only 70 miles; and the least from the Dornoch frith to Loch-Broom,
is 36. The whole country is so penetrated by friths and inlets of the sea, that it constantly
and very widely varies in breadth, and has no spot which is upwards of 40 miles inland.
The area, partly as ascertained by the Ordnance survey, partly as computed on the best other
authorities, is 19,639,377 statute acres, or about 30,685 square miles. This excludes all sea-
inlets beneath low-water mark, but includes about 155,000 acres of inland lakes. The
Ordnance survey has long been in progress, and, at the end of 1864, had completed 15,400
square miles. The report to the Board of Agriculture made the area, exclusive of water, to
Us 18,944,000 acres, or 29,600 square miles; and estimated the cultivated lands at 5,043,450
acres, — the uncultivated at 13,900,550.
A
I
ii INTRODUCTIOISr.
COASTS.
From the liberties of Berwick, the coast extends, along Berwickshire and part of Hadding-
tonshire, north- west ward to near North Berwick; and there, over a commencing width of 11
miles, it yields to the long westward indentation of the frith of Forth. Over the greater
part of this distance it is bold and rocky, presenting a firm rampart against the attacks of the
sea, and offering few points where even fishing-boats may approach. On the north side of
the Forth, it makes an almost semicircular sweep round the most easterly land of Fifeshire
to St. Andrew's-bay ; it thence trends northward to the north-east extremity of Fife ; and it
there gives place to the indentation of the frith of Tay. Between the Forth and the Tay, and
over a considerable part of Forfarshire to the north, it is in general low and sandy, wearing
alternately the softest and the tamest aspects. From Buddonness, on the north side of the
entrance of the Tay, all the way along Forfarshire, Kincardineshire, and part of Aberdeen-
shire, to Buchanness, its direction is north-north-eastward, slightly variegated by sinuosities.
Over the next 18 miles, it trends northward and north-north-westward, to Kinnaird-head ;
and between that promontory and Duncansby-head in the extreme north-east, it recedes to
the vast extent of between 70 and 80 miles, admitting a triangular gulf or enormous bay,
called the Moray frith. On the south side of this gulf, it stretches almost direct to the west,
and on the other side it extends to the north-east; but at the inner extremity of the gulf, it
is confusedly and entirely broken by the friths of Beauly, Cromarty, and Dornoch. From
Duncansby-head it undulates 14 miles in a prevailing direction of north-west by west to
Dunnet-head in the extreme north ; it thence stretches 4 miles south-westward to the indenta-
tion of Thurso-bay ; and from this bay to Cape-Wrath, in the extreme north-west, and in
nearly the same longitude as the entrance of the bay, it describes, over a distance of about
50 miles, a small segment of a circle, the curvature being inland, but, besides having a rugged
outline, is broken in three places by the inroads of respectively Loch-Tongue, Loch-Eribole,
and Durness-bay. Over nearly all the north it is bold and dangerous, abutted with rocky
headlands, crowned with frowning cliffs, torn into fissures, and assailed by very generally a
tumbling and chafed sea.
From Cape-Wrath to the Mull of Kintyre, a distance of about 30 miles more than from the
meridian of the liberties of Berwick to that of Duncansby-head, and comprising the whole
west boundary of the mainland, the coast, as to its general direction, diverges very little from
the straight line southward, or from a line a point or two westward of south; but over nearly
its whole extent, it is so torn and shattered by inroads of the sea, yields to so many large
and variform indentations, and, amidst its curious and ever-recurring recesses, leaps so mazily
over the inner line of the Hebridean islets and islands, that it defies description and bewilders
an uninitiated tourist. Its aspect is throughout wild and highland, alternately picturesque,
grand, sublime, and savage. Toward the Mull of Kintyre the coast becomes narrowed with
the continent, or rather with the long peninsula which projects from it, running down to the
Mull into a point or headland ; and there, over a commencing width of 35 or 40 miles,
measured south-eastward to Ayrshire at Ballantrae, it recedes in the large, many-bayed, and
curious gulf which forms the frith of Clyde. From Ballantrae to the Mull of Galloway, a
distance of 37 miles, it describes the segment of an ellipsis, the curvature being toward the
sea, but is broken a few miles south of Ballantrae by the entrance of Loch-Ryan. Over this
distance it is rocky, beetling, and inhospitable, but not high, and is curiously perforated with
large and numerous caverns. From the Mull of Galloway to a point 31 miles north-east by
east, it yields successively to the large ingress of Luce-bay, the considerable one of Wigton-
bay, and the smaller one of the estuary of the Dee, and comes down only in the headlands
by which these friths are separated. After passing the estuary of the Dee, it begins to be
confronted with the coast of England ; and thence onward, it is identified with the shore of
the Solway frith.
HEADLANDS.
In enumerating the principal capes, promontories, and other headlands, we shall follow the
ooast-line in the order in which we have just traced it. St. Abb's-head is in the middle of
the coast-line of Berwickshire, and forms the most projecting, bold, and conspicuous piece of
sea-board between the liberties of Berwick and the frith of Forth. Fast Castle-head is 3i
INTRODUCTION.
miles to the north-west. WMtberry-head and Gulane-point, are in Haddingtonshire, —
the latter some distance within the frith of Forth. Fifeness, a low, sandy, naked headland,
is the termination of the peninsula of Fife. Buddonness, similar to the former, and Red-head,
a beetling and bold promontory, are in Forfarshire. Todhead, Garron-point, Finnonness, and
Girdleness, are in Kincardineshire, — the last at the mouth of the Dee, and at the end of a
range of the Grampians. Buchanness is the most easterly land in Aberdeenshire, and even
in Scotland. Rattray-point, Cairnbulg-head, and Kinnaird-head, are in the same county, — .
the two last at the entrance of the Moray frith. Knock-head is in Banffshire. Coulard-
hill and Burgh-head are in Elginshire. Chanonry-point, at the entrance of the Beauly frith,
is in Ross-shire. Cromarty-point, at the entrance of the Cromarty frith, and Tarbatness, the
termination of the long narrow peninsula between the Cromarty and the Dornoch friths,
belong to Cromartyshire. Ord of Caithness, Clytheness, Noss-head, Duncansby-head, Dun-
net-head, and Holborn-head, are in Caithness, — the three last looking across the Pentland
frith to the Orkney Islands. Strathey-point, Whiten-head, Far-out-head, Cape- Wrath, and
Assynt-point, are in Sutherlandshire, — the last on its west coast, and the three first on its
north. Rhu-more is on the west coast of Cromarty. Udrigal-head, and Rhu-Rea-head, are
on the west coast of Ross-shire. Ardnamurchan-point, the most westerly ground on the
mainland, — the Mull of Kintyre, at the entrance of the Clyde, and of the Irish channel, —
and Lamont-point and Toward-point, the southern terminations on the east and the west of
the district of Cowal, on the Clyde, — are in Argyleshire. Clough-point, on the Clyde, is in
Renfrewshire. Kirkcolm-point, at the entrance of Loch-Ryan, — Corsewall-point, at the north-
west extremity of the Rhinns of Galloway, — and the Mull of Galloway and Burrow-head, at
the southern extremities of Scotland, — are in Wigtonshire. Ross-head, between Wigton and
Kirkcudbright bays, — Balcarry-point, at the west side of Auchencairn-bay, — Almerness-point,
between that bay and the estuary of the Urr, — and Southerness-point, at the extreme south
east of Galloway, — are in Kirkcudbrightshire.
MARINE WATERS.
The German ocean, where it washes the mainland of Scotland, is closed up on the east
side by Denmark, the entrance to the Baltic, and Christiansand in Norway. The North sea
and the German ocean, where they girdle the northern and western shores, are — as we shall
afterwards see — thickly occupied by the archipelagoes of Scotland, and both tamed in the
fury of their billows, and to a considerable extent stripped of their superincumbent vapours,
by the numerous and boldly screening islands, before they reach the main shore. From just
the same circumstance, too, or owing to currents, whirlpools, shoals, rocks, valuable winds,
and intricacy of channel, among the girdlings of the islands, or between them and the main-
land, these seas are not a little difficult and dangerous of navigation. And, owing to the
gullets and narrow sounds, which serve like funnels for the wind between high grounds, and
to the great number and magnitude and power of the rocky or mountainous obstructions
which are presented to the breeze and the tide, and to the labyrinth of paths, and the posi-
tions of successive or alternate propulsion, vexation, opposition, and becalming which have to
be traversed by a current, the seas likewise exhibit in the frequent storms of winter, or amidst
a gale on the longest and far extending day of the hyperborean summer, scenes of awful sub-
limity, which would appal almost any sensitive person except a native of the islands or of the
mainland sea-board. The Irish channel, where it washes the Mull of Kintyre, looks up the
frith of Clyde, and sweeps along the Rhinns of Galloway from Corsewall-point to the Mull
of Galloway, is curtained on its west or south-west side by the county of Antrim, the entrance
of Belfast loch, and the county of Down in Ireland, is 13 miles broad at the Mull of Kintyre,
and 21 at Portpatrick, and may be viewed as having an average breadtli along Wigtonshire
of 24 or 25 miles. At the point where it expands into the Irish sea, or immediately off the
Mull of Galloway, the tides, which come in one slow and majestic current across the Atlantic,
which encounter the long, vast obstruction of Ireland, and which sweep round the ends of
that country into the Irish sea by the opposite inlets at the Mull of Kintyre and at St.
George's-channel, run against each other in a tumult of collision, and produce, even in calm
weather, a tumbling, troughy sea, which no landsman loves to traverse. Resulting from the
same causes, the tidal currents in the adjacent parts of the Irish sea, and above all in the
Solway frith, are the most curious in the world. Some miles southward of the Galloway
coast, where the efflux is felt from both the Galloway estuaries and the Solway frith, or even
INTRODUCTION.
some miles southward of the extreme land of the Mull of Galloway, where the current is less
powerful, a Glasgow and Liverpool steamer of the old build might, in certain stages of the
tide, have paddled away northward for a couple of hours, and scarcely preserved herself
from being swept toward the Isle of Man. The Irish sea, where it washes Galloway, looks
direct southward to the Isle of Man, and the north coast of North Wales; and the Solway
frith, from the line 22 miles wide where it commences between Balmae-head at the entrance
of Kirkcudbright-bay and St. Bees-head in England, to the narrow point where it terminates
at the mouth of the Sark, is all the way flanked on the English side by Cumberland, and over-
looked at intervals on that side by the towns of Whitehaven, Workington, Maryport, and
Bowness.
The penetrations which the great encincturing marine waters of Scotland make in the shape
of gulfs, bays, friths, and what are called lochs, are so numerous that a full list of them
would task a reader's powers of endurance quite as severely as the continuous perusal of three
or four pages of a pocket English dictionary. All the important and interesting ones, too,
are so fully noticed in their respective places in the Gazetteer, that even they need be
enumerated only with the view of indicating their mutual and relative positions.
Belhaven-bay, between Dunbar and Whitberry-head in Haddingtonshire, though a com-
paratively small marine inlet, is the only noticeable one on the east coast south of the Forth.
The frith of Forth divides all Fifeshire, a detached part of Perthshire, and part of Clackman-
anshire on the north, from all Lothian, East, Mid, and West, and part of Stirlingshire on the
south ; and it makes several interior indentations, the chief of which are Aberlady-bay in East-
Lothian, Musselburgh-bay in Mid-Lothian, and Inverkeithing and Largo-bays in Fifeshire.
St. Andre w's-bay, at the mouth of the Eden, cuts the eastern part of Fifeshire into two
peninsulas, the larger on the south, and the smaller on the north. The frith of Tay divides
Forfarshire on the north from Fifeshire on the south, and afterwards penetrates considerably
into Perthshire. Lunan-bay makes but a small indentation on the coast of Forfarshire, yet is
attractive for its beauty, and valuable as anchoring-ground. Montrose basin is a curious
landlocked lagoon behind the town which gives it name. The Moray frith is greatly the
broadest gulf in Scotland, having part of Aberdeen, all Banff, Elgin, and Nairn, and part of
Inverness on one side, and Cromarty, Boss, Sutherland, and Caithness on the other, and
measuring in a line, which may be considered its mouth, from Kinnaird-head to Duncansby-
head, about 76 miles. Spey-bay makes a comparatively short and slender incision between
Banff and Elgin. Burgh-head-bay forms a noticeable expansion between Elgin and Nairn.
The Beauly frith, opening from the inner extremity or angle of the Moray frith, penetrates,
first south-westward and then westward, between Nairn and Inverness on the one side, and
Ross and Cromarty on the other; and it sends off from its south side, near the town of Inver-
ness, the navigation of the Caledonian canal. Cromarty frith, opening with a narrow entrance
from the Moray frith a few miles north of the mouth of the Beauly frith, describes a demi-
semicircle to the town of Dingwall, and forms the best harbour on the east coast of Great
Britain, and one of the finest in the world. The Dornoch frith extends westward between
Ross and Sutherland. Wick-bay makes a large semicircular indentation, on the east coast of
Caithness, immediately north of Noss-head.
The Pentland frith, strictly a strait or sound, intervenes between the mainland and the
Orkney archipelago, — forms the marine highway in the extreme north, to vessels going round
Scotland, — and, on account of its powerful tidal currents, and its rugged and broken coasts,
is of difficult and very perilous navigation. Thurso-bay broadly indents the middle of the
north coast of Caithness. Lochs Tongue, Eribole, and Durness make sharp, considerable
incisions, at rapid intervals, on the north coast of Sutherland. Lochs Inchard, Laxford,
Assynt, Eynard, Broom, Little Broom, Greinord, Ewe, Gair, Torriden, Kishorn, Carron,
Ling, and some others, curiously cleave into fragments the west coast of Sutherland and
Ross. The Minch, a broad sound or little sea, intervenes between the mainland at Suther-
land and Ross, and the archipelago of the Long Island; and the Little Minch, a much
narrower sound, intervenes between that archipelago and the group of Skye. The Kyle and
the sound of Sleat — the former a confined and winding strait, and the latter gradually ex-
pansive— separate Skye from the mainland along the coast of Inverness. Lochs Hourn,
Nevish, and Nuagh, opening off from these straits, run-eastward into the mainland. The
sound of Mull, a narrow strait, extends south-eastward between Morvern in Argyleshire and
the island of Mull. Loch-Linnhe, a large and long sound, stretches north and south between
Lorn in Argyleshire and the island of Mull ; and is thickly sprinkled witli islands and isleta
INTRODUCTION.
belonging to the Mull group of the Hebrides. Lochs Ed, Leven, Crinan, and Etive branch
away from it, and run far into the interior, — the first leading the way from the west to the
navigation of the Caledonian canal. The sound of Jura, extending north and south, inter-
venes between the district of Knapdale and the island of Jura; and the sound of Isla, ex-
tending in the same direction, forms a narrow stripe between Jura and Isla. The frith of
Clyde, previously to its being ramified into a labyrinth of straits, sounds, and elongated bays,
rolls its great gulf of waters between the long peninsula of Kintyre on the west and the
coast of Ayrshire on the east; and, in Its higher waters, it encloses the various islands of
Buteshire, cleaves southern Argyleshire into a series of wildly Highland and singular pen-
insulas, makes a considerable cleft in Dumbartonshire, and, as to its main channel, divides
the counties of Argyle and Dumbarton from those of Ayr and Eenfrew. Loch-Eyan and
Luce-bay invade Wigtonshire on a line with each other, Dut on opposite sides, — make such a
mutual advance as to leave a comparatively narrow isthmus between their inner extremities,
— and divide the Ehinns of Galloway from the rest of Wigtonshire. Wigton-bay makes a
long inroad between the two great political divisions of Galloway. Fleet, Kirkcudbright,
and Auchencairn bays, and the estuary of the Urr, indent the coast of Kircudbrightshire.
And the estuary of the Nith divides, for a considerable distance, the stewartry of Kirkcud-
bright from the county of Dumfries.
ISLANDS.
The islands of Scotland are very numerous, and, in many instances, are large and im
portant. The greatest archipelago, that of the Hebrides, extends along nearly the whole
west coast of the mainland. It is broadly distinguishable into two divisions, the outer and
the inner, but is capable of subdivision into five groups. Three of these press close upon the
coast, the group of Isla and Jura on the south, that of Mull in the centre, and that of Skye
on the north, — the last separated from the second by the seas which wash the far-projecting
Point of Ardnamurchan on the mainland, and the first and second so concatenated as to
admit a line of separation chiefly by their geognostic properties. The fourth, largest, most
northerly, and far-stretching group, lies quite away from the mainland, and even from the
group of Skye, separated from the northern part of the former by the Minch, and from the
western skirts of the latter by the Little-Minch. It consists of about 140 islands and islets,
is about 140 miles in aggregate length, and lies so compactly as to be popularly viewed as
one, and conventionally called the Long-Island. The fifth group is very small, lies to the
far-west in profound loneliness, amidst a desert of waters, and draws attention chiefly by the
romance of its situation and character. — consisting only of St. Kilda, itself more an islet than
an island, and a tiny sprinkling on the bosom of the sea around it of dark, coarse gems, which
pendulate between the character of islets and that of mere rocks. These groups are all fully
treated in the article Hebrides. Another archipelago, that of Orkney, is separated at its
south end by the Pentland frith, 6 miles broad, from the north coast of Caithness, or extreme
north of the mainland of Scotland. Its islands and islets lie somewhat compactly; but are
divisible into two groups, the larger and more compact on the south, the smaller and more
dispersed on the north-east, — the two separated by a sound which bears on the east side the
name of Stronsa frith, and on the west side that of Westra frith. A full general description
of the whole will be found in the article Orkney. An islet called Stroma, lies in the Pent-
land frith, 4 miles north-west of Duncansby-head. A third archipelago, that of Shetland,
lies 48 miles north-north-east from Orkney. About two-thirds of its whole superficies is
amassed in a very long island, of surpassingly irregular outline, and in several places very
nearly dissevered, called the Mainland. Yell sound, a winding strait, separates this island
on the south from the other chief island on the north, but is, in some places, thickly strewn
with islets. One small island, Fowla, lies quite away to the west from the main group.
Another, called Fair-Island, lies about half-way between that group and the Orkneys. All
the details of a general description are given in the article Shetland.
The other principal islands of Scotland are Mugdrum, in the frith of Tay ; the Isle of May,
Inchkeith, Cramond, Inchcolm, Inchgarvey, Inchmickry, Craigleith, Lamb, Fidra, and the
Bass, in the frith of Forth; and Arran. Bute, Great Cumbrae, Little Cumbrae, Sanda, Devar,
Pladda, Lamlash, Lady-Isle, and Ailsa-rock, in the frith of Clyde. Of seaward rocks and
sandbanks, the chief are Car-rock, 11 mile north-east of Fifeness ; Bell-rock, 12 miles east
of Buddonness; Marr's-bank, a shoal, 30 miles east of the Bell-rock; Murray -bank, a sand-
vi INTRODUCTION.
bank 10 miles east of Montrose; the Long-Forties, a shoal, extending from the exterior side
of Murray-bank, in a line nearly parallel with the coast, to within 70 miles of Kinnaird-
head; Outer-Montrose-pits, a shoal, 90 miles east of Montrose; Covesea-skerries, a reef a
mile off the coast of Drainie in Elginshire ; the Pentland-skerries, at the east end of the
Pentland frith ; Lappoch-rock, between Lady-Isle and Irvine harbour, iu the frith of Clyde ;
and the Big and Little Scaurs, rocks at the middle of the entrance of Luce-bay.
COAST-LIGHTS.
The dangers of navigating the seas of Scotland are very great; yet artificial means of
mitigating them, till quite a recent period, were few and inefficient. But now, to say no-
thing of improvements in navigation itself, of the aids furnished by steam-tugs, and of the
refuge presented by the Caledonian and the Crinan Canals, immense protection is afforded
by beacon-towers and lighthouses. All these, of course, are well known to nautical men
frequenting the Scottish coasts. But the lighthouses, by both their situation and their
variety, possess interest for general readers. Several of them stand on wild reefs washed
all round by the sea; and one of these, on the Bell-rock, is as remarkable a structure as any
in the world. Most are situated so high on bold promontories or beetling sea-cliffs as to be
visible at great distances; all have distinctive lights; and six are double. About 70 belong
to particular harbours, or are local. Nine were erected by the Commissioners of Northern
Lights between 1861 and 1867 ; and the following, with the date and cost of their
erection, were under the Commissioners in 1861, — Little Ross, Kirkcudbrightshire, 1843,
£8,478; Mull of Galloway, 1830, .£8,378; Corsewall-point, 1817, £7,835; Loch Ryan,
1847, £4,241; Pladda Island, 1790; Devar Island, Campbelton, 1854, £4,916; Sanda
Island, 1850, £11,931; Mull of Kintyre, 1787; Rhinns of Islay, 1825, £8,056; Sound of
Islay, 1859, £7,437; Lismore, 1833, £11,229; Sound of Mull, 1857, £6,277; Ardnamur-
chan, 1849, £13,738; Sound of Sleat, 1857, £4,527; Kyleakin, 1857, £6,210; South
Rona, 1857, £5,063; Skerryvore, 1844, £86,977; Barrahead, 1833, £13,087; Usheniish,
South Uist, 1857, £8,809; Island-Glass, Harris, 1789; Stornoway, 1852, £6,380; Cape
Wrath, 1828, £13,550; Dunnethead, 1831, 9.135; North Unst, 1855, £32,478; Whalsey-
skerries, 1856, £21,750; Bressay-sound, 1858, £5,163; Sumburgh-head, 1821, £10,087;
North Ronaldshay, 1854, £12,927 ; Start-point, Sanday, 1806; Hoy, 1851, £15,880; Can-
tickhead, Hoy, 1858, £5,661; Pentland-skerries, 1794; Nosshead, 1849, £12,149; Tarbat-
ness, 1830, £9,361; Cromarty-point, 1846, £3,203; Chanonry-point, 1846, £3,571; Cove-
sea-skerries, 1846, £11,514; Kinnaird-head, 1787; Buchanness, 1827, £11,912: Girdle-
ness, 1833, £11,940; Bell-Rock, 1811, £61,331; Isle of May, 1816; Inchkeith, 1804.
Those erected between 1861 and 1867 are in the sound of Jura, in Islay, near Easdale, in
Loch Eil, Butt of Lewis, Monach islands, Stronsay frith, Holburn Head, and St. Abb's Head.
GENERAL SURFACE.
Hundreds and even thousands of parishes in England so closely or exactly resemble one
another in all their features of landscape, that a sufficiently graphic description of one might
be subscribed successively with the names of all. But so wondrously diversified is the sur-
face of Scotland, that each of all its parishes, except a few, has some broad distinctive features
of its own, each of the great majority might be the subject of a picture replete with in-
dividuality, and each of very many offers to the painter entire groups of scenes, sometimes
multitudinous clusters, which are rich in the peculiarities of their respective elements. Any
general description of such a country is in the highest degree susceptible of colouring from
the bias of aversion or of favourable predilection. Scotland has spots as lusciously lovely
or as superbly magnificent as ever poet sang, and spots as unutterably dreary or as inhos-
pitably sequestered as ever a dreaming or misanthropic anchorite conceived; and, in respect
both to scenery and to climate, can probably exhibit some actual tract of territory to justify,
or at least to countenance, on the one hand, each sneer or sarcasm which has been written
against her by illiberal prejudice, and, on the other, each of the most impassioned panegyrics
which have been sung upon her by patriotic and enthusiastic admiration. To be fully under-
stood, the country must be seen or studied in minute detail. No general description of it
can be made the vehicle of very distinct ideas. Only such readers as acquaint themselves
with it through some such medium as a copious Gazetteer, can be said to comprehend it,—
INTRODUCTION.
examining it piece by piece in such large districts as those of counties and grand divisions,
and then looking in detail at its parishes, its principal mountains, its lakes, its rivers, and all
its various interesting objects. Whoever shall peruse the present work, first in the great and
comprehensive articles, and next in the multitudinous briefer articles which exhibit the in-
dividual objects and describe the minute features of the grand picture, must rise, we should
hope, from the perusal with conceptions of the surface of Scotland incomparably clearer than
if he had read any conceivable amount of consecutive description. He will be surprised,
perhaps bewildered, by the amount of variety ; he will be delighted, or even thrilled, by the
frequency with which scenery occurs, ever new or peculiar, and addressing itself by turns, or
in combinations, to every power of taste, from the love of the calmly beautiful to the sturdiest
and sternest capacity for the awfully sublime ; he will wonder to discover many a fairy nook
or striking lusas naturce in a district which probably rash satire had pronounced repulsive
even to a savage; and when he reflects how spiritedly and copiously Wordsworth and Scott
and many other masters of song have written upon Scottish landscape, he will conjecture
how mighty an impulse they must have felt, and how resistlessly they were hurried along,
and into what a whirl of poetic excitement they were carried, in the careering of their
descriptive poetry. But he must be aided, in this introductory article, by such a general
view of the surface of the country as, though unneeded and useless for the purposes of
description, will indicate to him the prevailing characteristic of each great district, and assi-t
him to see the mutual connexion of counties, mountain systems, valleys, and the basins of the
great rivers.
Scotland, then, as to its mainland, is naturally and very distinguishably separated both
into two and into three great divisions. The two great divisions are the Highlands and the
Lowlands, so noticed and traced in separate articles in the body of this work, that they need
not be further mentioned. The three great divisions are, the Southern, lying south of the
friths of Forth and Clyde, and of the valley of the Forth and Clyde canal, — the Central,
lying north of this line, and south of the Glenmore-nan-albin, or great Glen of Caledonia,
occupied by a chain of slender lakes, and traversed by the Caledonian canal, — and the
Northern, lying north and north-west of the Glenmore-nan-albin.
Though the Southern division is all comprehended in what are called the Lowlands, and
contains much champaign country, or many of the districts which obtain in Scotland
the name of plains, it contains very little level ground except in the alluvial tracts, — the
luxuriant Scottish ' haughs ' and ' holms,' — along the courses of the greater rivers. Its
southern extremity, comprising all Wigtonshire except a belt on the north, is strictly neither
mountainous nor lowland, a remarkably tumulated expanse, — a sea of hillocks, very thinly
crested with wood, and wearing the hues of constant hesitation between wilderness, green
pasture, and arable cultivation. Along the north of Wigtonshire, but chiefly in the adjacent
portions of Kirkcudbrightshire and Ayrshire, from the head of Wigton-bay on the east, to
the sea at Loch- Ryan, and to the frith of Clyde opposite Ailsa-Craig, commences a system of
mountains which are often called the Scottish Southern Highlands, and which form the
grandest feature of the southern division of the mainland. This system extends in a broad
phalanx of spurs and ridges cut \>y gorges and glens quite across the kingdom in the direction
of north-east by east, to the Cheviots on the boundary of Roxburghshire, and there passes on
to Northumberland. It attains its highest altitudes about mid-distance in the country, and
thence sends off huge spurs northward to the great bend of the Clyde round Tinto, north-
north-eastward to the abrupt stoop of the Pentland-hills, a few miles south of Edinburgh,
and north-eastward to the termination of the Moorfoot-hills in the vale of Gala-water. From
the western end up to the central masses, no regular ridge can be traced ; the mountains there
forming an elevated region unmarked by order, and penetrated in various directions by deep
long gorges and vales. East of the central heights, a distinctly marked but deeply serrated
ridge, constituting an uniform water-shed, and shooting up in a continued series of summits,
runs along the northern boundary of Dumfries-shire and Liddesdale, and afterwards bends
north-eastward and northward along the boundary with England, to the vicinity of Yetholm.
The heights, in a few instances, have sharp and pinnacled outlines, or present a bare and
rocky aspect; but, in general, they are soft in feature and in dress, angularities being rounded
away from side and summit, and verdure successfully struggling to maintain ascendency over
heath. On their south side they run far down in lateral ridges, and frequently subside with
comparative suddenness, allowing the parallel narrow valleys to open boldly and sweepinglv
out into a great plain. In their main broad line they occupy the northern parts of Kirkcud-
INTRODUCTION.
brightshire and Dumfries-shire, and the southern parts of the counties of Ayr, Lanark,
Peebles, Selkirk, and Roxburgh. Their altitude, in the central masses, averages nearly
3,000 feet above sea-level, and in other parts, varies from 700 or 800 feet to a little upwards
of 2,000.
The great plain, or rather champaign country, whicb lies between these mountains and the
Solway frith, exhibits on the east a considerable expanse of level ground, — in the centre, an
agreeable variety of flats and gentle hilly ridges, — -and in the west, an irregularly tumulated
surface. Greatly the boldest variety in this quarter, is the ridge of the Criftel-hills, which
lifts a grand summit in the immediate flank of the Solway, at the mouth of the estuary of the
Nith, and thence runs inland in a considerable ridge of 10 or 12 miles. The broad spurs
toward Edinburgh and Gala-water, fill all Peebles-shire and Selkirkshire. They are quite as
irregular as the main line of the Southern Highlands, not so bold, more softly dressed, and
forming over a considerable space a hugely undulated expanse of verdure. As they become
identified with the Moorfoot-hills in the south of Mid-Lothian, they lose much of both their
greenness and their altitude. After the intervention of the vale of the Gala, they rise sud-
denly up in a broad and very moorish ridge, which takes the name of the Lammermoor-hills,
occupies the northern part of Berwickshire, and the southern part of East-Lothian, and ex-
tends in a direction north of east to the German ocean at St. Abb's-head. An irregular
triangle, formed by the east end of the main line of the Southern Highlands, and the spurs
onward to the coast of the Lammermoors, constitutes the basin of the parent-stream and the
affluents of the Tweed. This, over a large part of its extent, is identical with the dells,
and glens, and valee of the mountain-territory; but in the eastern and southern divisions of
Berwickshire, and a small part of the north-eastern division of Roxburghshire, it forms the
largest plain in Scotland, an expanse of very slightly undulated ground, closely resembling
many districts in England, — the luxuriant, calmly pretty, garden-looking Merse.
Intervening between the South Highlands and the friths of Forth and Clyde, the great
champaign grounds of Lothian and Strathclyde extend from sea to sea, — the former a hang-
ing plain, declining to the north, and picturesquely variegated with hill and rising ground, —
the latter a great valley, opening broadly out from among the glens and vales of the High-
lands, stretching westward in agreeable undulations which decline on both sides to a line
along the centre, and becoming pent up in the west between the Lennox-hills and a ridge in
Renfrewshire. The water-shed between these two great champaign districts is everywhere
very slightly marked, and contains less hill, and greatly less boldness and variety, than
several ridges or congeries of heights in the interior of Lothian. An insulated range, vacillat-
ing in character between hill and mountain, commences behind Greenock, at the west end of
the valley of the Clyde, and runs southward near the west coast to the hill of Knockgeorgan,
700 feet high, about 3 miles north of Ardrossan bay. Mistie-Law, near the middle of this
range, rises 1,558 feet above sea-level. From the heights north of Ardrossan, the water-
shed makes a circular sweep to the south, with the concave side to the west, enclosing in a
sort of amphitheatre the great hanging plain of Ayrshire, frequently but very slightly tumu-
lated, containing much level ground, and, in its southern part, several bold heights, and hav-
ing a prevailing declination to the west. This water-shed, after leaving the insulated chain
from Greenock to Ardrossan, is for a long way of very inconsiderable elevation; and where
it forms the boundary-line between Lanarkshire and Ayrshire, it is so low as to admit, from
some points on the east bank of the Clyde in the centre of Clydesdale, not more than 120 or
160 feet above sea-level, a view of the heights of Arran, distant 50 miles in the frith of
Clyde ; but over its southern half, it becomes identified, for some distance, with the water-
shed of the main line of the Southern Highlands, and then sweeps westward to the sea,
immediately on the left bank of the outlet of Girvan-water. The extreme north of the
southern division of Scotland, or that which forms the middle part of the common boundary
between it and the central division, is a strath or belt of low land, stretching along the
south base of the Lennox-hills, from the head of the estuary of the Forth between Grange-
mouth and Stirling, to a point a little above the head of the estuary of the Clyde, between
the village of East Kilpatrick and the vicinity of Glasgow. This strath is identical, at its
west end, with the valley of the Clyde; in the chief of its central part, it forms a detached
district of Dumbartonshire ; and in its east end, and the rest of its central part, it constitutes
the plain of Stirlingshire.
The Lennox-hills, which skirt the central division of the kingdom between the Forth and
the Clyde, extend from Stirling to Dumbuck, immediately above Dumbarton, in the direction
INTRODUCTION. ix
of west-south-west. Along the north side, a moorish descent terminates, over the western
half, in a narrow and richly variegated vale, chiefly traversed by the river Endrick, and
partly declining to Loch-Lomond and the river Leven, — and over the eastern half, in a flat
broad belt of carse-ground, which is very sinuously watered by the river Forth, and which,
after sweeping past a narrowed part at Stirling-castle, becomes identified with the plain of
(Stirlingshire. The mountains beyond extend over a vast region ; occupy, with their inter-
vening vales and lakes, the whole of the middle and western portions of the central division
of Scotland; and press closely on the whole flank of the Glenmore-nan-albin. One of the
highest summits of the region, as well as of all Scotland, is Bennevis, 4,380 feet above sea-
level, situated on the south-east side of Loch-Eil, near the entrance of the Caledonian canal.
The boundary of the most mountainous part of the region extends south-westward from this
monarch-height to Ben-Cruachan, on the south side of Loch-Etive; it runs thence south-
eastward to the mountains of Arroquhar, on the east side of Loch-Long, one of the most
northerly branches of the frith of Clyde; it extends thence eastward to Benlomond, at the
sources of the Forth ; it thence passes on in the direction of east-north-east to Benledi, on the
west side of Loch-Lubuaig ; it thence diverges eastward to the enormously-based Bengloe,
in latitude 56° 50' and west longitude 3° 40'; it runs thence due east to the lofty ridge of
Lochnagar, nearly in latitude 57° and west longitude 3" ; it extends thence northward, to
the water-shed between the sources of the river Deveron and those of the Aven; it thence
passes on westward to the northern extremity of Loch-Ness; and it thence extends south-
westward, along the flank of the whole of Glenmore-nan-albin, to Bennevis. All the country
comprehended within these boundaries, excepting Strathspey and a few deep glens, lies pro-
bably at a minimum of 1,000 feet above sea-level; it embosoms multitudinous scenes of grand
and magnificent beauty, and of alternately savage arid picturesque sublimity; it has many
tracts which afford rich pasture, and not a few which are finely feathered over with forest ;
it even contains many well-sheltered spots small individually, but considerable in the aggre-
gate, which are available for agriculture; but over by far the greater part of its extent, it
either sends up wild and untameable summits to the clouds, or is an impracticable region of
rocky steeps, unproductive moors, and extensive bogs.
Large tracts of continuous mountain lie on all sides, except the north-west, immediately
beyond the boundaries we have indicated, and form, jointly with the great territory within
these boundaries, the upland district of the central division of Scotland ; but, though equally
inhospitable, they are much inferior in mean height, and, in general, have less boldness,
angularity, and rockiness of surface. The greatest range of the whole region cuts it from
west to east into not very unequal parts, forms all the way a water-shed between streams
respectively on the north and on the south, has a breadth of from 12 to 25 miles, runs at no
great distance south of the 57 th parallel, extends from Bennevis by Loch-Ericht, and along
the northern boundary of the counties of Perth and Forfar, to Mount-Caerloch in Kincar-
dineshire, 18 miles west by north of Stonehaven, and thence sends off two hilly ridges to the
coast, one terminating at Stonehaven, and the other at Girdleness. It thus bristles up as a
stupendous rampart from sea to sea, sends up many summits 3,000 feet above sea-level, has
probably a mean altitude, west of Caerloch, of 2,500 feet, measures in length from Bennevis
to Girdleness about 100 miles, and, besides being turned at the east end of its forking hilly
ridges by the great north road and the Aberdeen railway, is pierced in three places with
gorges or passes which admit the transit of military roads. Another range commences in the
vicinity of Loch-Lydoch, several miles from the south side of the former range, in west lon-
gitude 4° 35', and runs south-south-westward to Benloe, and thence southward, by the moun-
tains of Arroquhar, along the west side of Loch-Long and the frith of Clyde, to a soft and
gentle termination at Toward-point, the eastern peninsular headland of the district of Cowal.
This range is not more than 50 miles in length, and, in Cowal, it is not more than 6 in mean
breadth, and considerably less than 2,000 feet in the average height of its summits ; but, north
of Arroquhar, it is from 12 to 15 miles broad, sends up numerous summits to the height of
nearly 3,000 feet, and forms a water-shed between the streams which flow respectively to the
German and the Atlantic .oceans. The section of the mountain district lying east of this
range, and south of the great central range from Bennevis to Caerloch, somewhat nearly
resembles in outline the figure of a quadrant, and contains many elevations, such as Ben-
lomond, Benvenu, Benledi, Benvoirlich, Benlawers, and Schihallion, which rise about 3,000
feet or upwards, and in one instance even 4,000 feet, above sea-level. Its mountains, in
some cases, are isolated ; but, in general, they run in lateral spurs or offshoots eastward frotn
INTRODUCTION.
the south and north range, and more or less parallel with the great central range. These
are short in the southern part of the district, but they gradually increase from 10 to 15 or 18,
and even to upwards of 20 miles, in the north ; and the glens which they there enclose are
generally very deep, in part high above sea-level, have a contracted narrowness on the west,
but usually expand into vales toward the east, contain aggregately a large amount of arable
land and forest, and embosom a great proportion of the loveliest far-famed scenery of the
Highlands.
Between the northernmost screen of these glens and the great east and west central
mountain-range, extends the vale of Rannoch, traversed along the east by the tumultuous
river Tummel, and occupied on the west by Loch-Eannoch ; and from the west end of this
lake, past the northern termination of the north and south great range, away south-westward
to the spurs of Bencruachan, extends the moor of Bannoch, an immense level bog lying
about 1,000 feet above the level of the sea, a dismal wilderness occupying an area of about
400 square miles. The section of country south and south-west of this, north of the penin-
sula of Knapdale and Kintyre, and west of the north and south mountain-range, measures
about 40 miles by 25, and, with the exception of the stupendous mass of Bencruachan and
some attendant heights, is a series of table-lands, elevated from 500 to 700 feet above sea-
level, separated by narrow and deep glens ploughed up by water-courses, and covered partly
with heath and grass, and partly with moorish soil and bog. The glens, though deep, are,
in general, open, or expand into vales, and, in common with the banks of far-stretching bays
and marine lochs, are subject to the plough or luxuriant in wood. The long narrow penin-
sula of Knapdale and Kintyre, extending nearly 50 miles southward, with a mean breadth of
about 7 miles, rises at its southern extremity to an altitude of about 1,000 feet above sea-
level, but elsewhere is very moderately and even gently hilly, has many interspersions of
plain and valley, and wears an arable, sheltered, and softly picturesque appearance.
From the north side of the great central range, at a point north-north-west of Bengloe, a
range upwards of 30 miles in length, and about 10 or ll in mean breadth, goes off in the
direction of north by east, to the stupendous mountain-knot of the Cairngorm heights — ac-
cording to some authorities, the loftiest in Britain — and there forks into two branches, the
one extending north-eastward, and lowering in its progress, along the right flank of the upper
basin of the Deveron, and the other, under the name of the Braes of Abernethy, running
northward between the vale of the Aven and the valley of the Spey, to the terminating and
lofty heights of Cromdale. This range, except near the north end of its divergent branches,
is unpierced by any road or practicable pass; and, from the Cairngorm group to its junction
with the great central range, has a mean altitude of probably about 3,000 feet. In the
triangle, the two greater sides of which are formed by the Glenmore-nan-albin, and the
western moiety of the great central range, stretches north-eastward a range 30 miles in length,
and considerable in breadth, called the Monadh-Leadh mountains. These heights commence,
at their south-west end, in the Corryarrick mountains, 18 miles north-east of Bennevis ; they
divide in their progress into two branches, which enclose the glen of the river Findhorn, and
terminate nearly due east of Inverness ; and they possess an extreme altitude above sea-level
of not much more than 2,000 feet. The south side of the east end of the great central
range from Caerloch to Bengloe, and the ends facing the south-east and east of the lateral
offshoots of the great range north and south, have a broad fringe of shelving upland, which,
in a general view, may be described as descending in tiers, or as forming a declination by
successive gradients to the Lowlands. This fringe — mountainous on the inner side, and
merely hilly in the exterior — varies in breadth from 3 to 8 miles toward the south, and from
6 to 12 miles toward the north; it is everywhere chequered or striped with glens and vales,
bringing down the roaring and impetuous streams cradled among the alps to the champaign
country below ; it exhibits, as seen from a distance, a magnificently varied breastwork thrown
round the Highlands; and it encloses in its glens and vales a surpassingly rich assemblage of
scenery, a vast aggregate area of picturesque and romantic forest, and not a small proportion
of excellent arable ground.
Along the whole south-east side of this far-stretching and myriad-featured declivity, from
the Forth between Stirling and Aberfoil to the German ocean at Stonehaven, a distance of
about 80 miles, extends the plain of Strathmore, or the Great Valley, from 1 mile to 16 miles
in breadth, over the most part from 6 to 8, and almost everywhere level and in fine cultiva-
tion. This grand strath sends off to the German ocean at Montrose, a short one of kindred
character ; farther north it becomes narrowed, and assumes the name of the Howe of Mearns ;
INTRODUCTION. xi
and at the point where it is crossed by the river Tay, it looks down a transverse valley
watered by that stream. But over nearly all its length, it is flanked along its south-cast side
by ranges of heights which, in some places, almost vie with the Grampians along the north-
west side, and in others wear the aspect of soft and gentle hills. The most considerable
range, called the Ochils, extends from a point 2 miles from the river Forth, and about 4
miles from Stirling, in the direction of east-north-east, to the frith of Tay ; it is 24 miles in
length, and has a mean breadth of about 12 miles; and it is loftiest toward the Forth, and
attains an extreme altitude of 2,300 feet above sea-level. Another range, called the Sidlaw-
hills, is continuous of the Ochils, except for the intervention of the valley of the Tay ; it rises
abruptly up a little below Perth, in a surpassingly picturesque height of 632 feet above sea-
level, and extends to a point some miles south of Montrose, sending up, over the earlier half
of its progress, numerous summits upwards of 1,000 feet in altitude, and afterwards forming
naturally moorish terraces which now are either arable or, for the most part, clothed witli
wood. South-eastward of the Ochils, all the way to the German ocean, the surface is
singularly rich in the calm and soft beauties of landscape, and exhibits an interminable blending
of valley, slope, and gentle hill ; its boldest variety being an isolated table-ridge, a few miles
from the Ochils, 4 miles in length, and shooting up at the extremities into beautifully out-
lined summits, respectively 1,466, and 1,721 feet high. Eastward from the south end of the
Sidlaws, and along the north shore of the frith of Tay to the vicinity of Dundee, stretches
the Carse of Gowrie, a level expanse of wheat-bearing soil, unsurpassed in strength and rich-
ness. The surface elsewhere between the Sidlaws and the sea, is partly diversified with the
soft low heights called Laws, and partly consists of sandy downs, but in general is a waving,
well-cultivated plain.
North of the great central mountain-range from Bennevis to the German ocean, and east
of the strictly Highland region, some high hilly ridges run eastward to near the sea, and send
aloft numerous summits of mountainous aspect and altitude. The surface of the ridges and
of the intervening tracts, alternately pleases and tantalizes by incessant change ; it abounds
in rocky ruggedness, steep declivities, and niggard moorlands; and it admits the dominion
of the plough only or chiefly on the low grounds of its glens and valleys. The country lying
to the north-east, and terminating in Kinnaird-head, at the entrance of the Moray frith, has
plains which, in some instances, run 10 or 12 miles inland from the sea, and swell into hills,
most of which are graceful in outline, and beautifully verdant, while some are ploughed to the
summit, and all, with one exception, rise less than 600 feet above the level of the sea. The
country lying along the Moray frith to the north-east end of the Glenmore-nan-albin, has a
breadth between the Highlands and the sea of only from 12 to 18 miles; its level ground
along the sea-board runs 9 miles inland in the vicinity of the Spey, but elsewhere is seldom
more than 2 miles broad; its interior district is traversed seaward by lofty offshoots of the
mountain region beyond; and its sea-board on the Beauly frith is a barren moor 10 miles by
from 2 to 3, — the famous moor of Culloden. The Glenmore-nan-albin extends north-east
and south-west, in a straight line from sea to sea; it is 60 miles in length from Loch-Eil to
the Beauly frith ; and it is principally occupied by three long stripes of fresh-water lake,
aggregately upwards of 37 miles in length.
The northern or third great division of Scotland, with the exception of two comparatively
small portions, is all Highland. One of the low tracts consists of the peninsulas respectively
north and south of the Cromarty frith, and of a tract round the head of that frith from 2 to
about 4 miles in breadth, which unites them. The southern peninsula, seaward from an
isthmus which nowhere rises more than 50 feet above sea-level, swells on its west side into a
flat-backed height, which, with a mean breadth of 2 miles, extends northward to the coast.
The northern peninsula, though much and roughly variegated with high moorish grounds,
and lifting up in one place a bold rampart on the coast, is crossed by the fine plain of Fearn,
stretching from Tain to the most northerly bay of the Cromarty frith. The other low dis-
trict is a somewhat variegated level, comprehends about four-fifths of the whole of Caithness,
and will be quite understood, as to both its character and its relative position, by reference to
the article on that county. The mountain region, while vast in area and multitudinous in
feature, exhibits such masses and congeries of heights, and is so undisposed in ridges or
ranges, that only a longer description than the patience of most readers could endure would
serve to depict it. Its greatest elevation extends across nearly its centre, from Ben-Wyvis
on the east, to Loch-Torridon on the west, and sends aloft its summits from a base lying at
probably 1,500 feet above sea-level. On the north side of this line, or toward Cape- Wrath,
INTKODUCTION.
the elevation decreases more than on the south, or toward the peninsula of Morvern. On its
west side occur most of those long and narrow indentations of the sea noticed in the sections
on the coasts and the marine waters ; remarkable for rendering so desolate a region inhabit-
able, and especially for their being of a class which occurs nowhere else in the world except
on the coasts of Norway, Greenland, Iceland, and the hyperborean country around Hudson's
Bay.
RIVERS.
Most of the running waters of Scotland, owing to the prevalence of mountain, and the
frequent penetrations of the sea, have small length of course, and are not generally designated
rivers. Yet though very numerous, and, for the most part, individually unimportant, they
will be found distinctly noticed in the articles on counties, and fully described in the alpha-
betical arrangement. We can here, without useless repetition, only name the principal
streams, and state their locality and direction.
South of the west end of the Southern Highlands, or in two cases in Wigtonshire, and in
the third between that county and Kirkcudbrightshire, the Luce, the Bladenoch, and the
Cree run south-eastward to the Irish sea. South of the main range of the Southern High-
lands, the Dee, the Urr, the Nith, the Annan and the Esk run southward to the Solway
frith. In the large triangular district, two sides of which are formed by the main range of
the Southern Highlands, and by the long spur to St. Abb's-head, and whose aggregate basin
comprehends about 1,870 square miles, the Tweed, aided chiefly by the affluents of the Gala,
the Teviot, and the Whitadder, runs eastward, north-eastward, and northward, to the German
ocean. The Lothians and the plain of Stirlingshire are drained north-eastward or northward
to the frith of Forth, principally by the Tyne, the Esk, the Leith, the Almond, the Avon,
and the Carron. Ayrshire is drained in a direction more or less westerly to the frith of
Clyde, by the Stinchar, the Girvan, the Doon, the Ayr, the Irvine, and the Garnock. The
basin of the Clyde, comprehending an area of 1,200 square miles, is drained in a direction
north of west to the head of the frith of Clyde, by its cognominal stream, whose chief affluents
are the Douglas, the Avon, the Kelvin, and the Leven. The Forth, drawing greatly the
majority of its head-waters from the central division of Scotland, fed principally by the Teith,
the Allan, and the Devon, and draining an area of 574 square miles, flows eastward to its
frith.
The streams which, throughout both the central and the northern divisions of Scotland,
run westward to the Atlantic, are all individually too inconsiderable to bear separate mention.
Those which drain the district east of the Ochil-hills are chiefly the Leven and the Eden, —
the former eastward to Largo-bay, and the latter north-eastward to St. Andrew's-bay. A
vast territory lying immediately south of the great central range of mountains, and compre-
hending large portions of both the Highlands and the Lowlands, is drained to the extent of
2,396 miles, chiefly eastward, and partly southward, by the Tay and its tributaries, the
prinfeipal of which are the Tummel, the Isla, the Almond, and the Earn. The north-east
corner of this territory is drained eastward to the German ocean, chiefly by the South-Esk
and the North-Esk. In the district immediately north of the central mountain-range, and
east of the Cairngorm mountain-knot, the Dee and the Don run eastward to the sea at Aber-
deen. In the district lying between this and the eastern half of the Moray frith, the Deveron
runs northward to that frith, and the Ythan and the Ugie eastward to the German ocean.
The district enclosed by the great central mountain-range, the north-east branch of the
Cairngorm ramification, the Moray frith, and the Glenmore-nan-albin, is drained to the ex-
tent of 1,300 square miles, north-eastward to the sea by the Spey, to the extent of 500 miles
northward to the frith by the Findhorn, and to a less extent for each stream, northward to the
frith by the Nairn, and westward to Loch-Lochy, near the west end of the Glenmore, by the
Spean.
In the great northern division of Scotland, the chief streams eastward are the Beaulv to
the head of the Beauly frith, the Conan to the head of the Cromarty frith, the Oykell to the
bead of the Dornoch frith, the Brora, the Helmsdale, the Berriedale, and the Wick ; and the
chief streams northward are the Thurso, the Forss, the Halladale, and the Naver. Of all the
rivers, the Clyde alone is navigable by sea-craft for any considerable distance above the
estuary; and even it possesses this high property only in consequence of great artificial
deepening and embanking, and over a distance of but about 12 miles.
INTRODUCTION.
LAKES.
The lakes of Scotland, are very numerous, and, in many instances, are large, and singularly
rich in scenery. The principal, for extent or scenic attractions, are Ken, drained by a
cognominal stream, the chief affluent of the southern Dee ; Skene, 1,300 feet above sea-level,
drained by a remote tributary of the Annan, forming the magnificent cataract called the
Orey-Mare's-Tail ; St. Mary's-Loch, and the Loch of the Lows, drained by the classic Yarrow,
a remote affluent of the Tweed; Doon, drained by its cognominal stream; Lomond, drained
by the western Leven, the tributary of the Clyde; Leven, drained by the eastern Leven;
Conn and Ard, drained by the Forth; Katrine, Achray, Vennachoir, Voil, and Lubnaig,
drained by the Teith, the chief affluent of the Forth ; Tay, Earn, Lydoch, Ericht, Eannoch,
Tummel, Garry, Lows, Clunie, and Quiech, drained by the Tay and its affluents; Loch-Lee,
drained by the North-Esk; Awe, Avick, Shiell, and Eck, south of the central mountain-range,
and near the west coast ; Laggan, Ouchan, and Treag, drained by the Spean ; Lochy and
Archaig, drained by the Lochy, into Loch-Eil ; Garry, Oich, Ness, and Ruthven, drained by
the Ness into the Beauly frith; Duntalliak, drained by the Nairn; Affrick, drained by the
Beauly; Maree, Fuir, Shallag, Fannich, Rusk, Luichart, Monar, Glas, Moil-, and Slin, in
Ross-shire; Shin, Naver, Furan, Baden, Loval, and More, in Sutherland; and Stenness in
the mainland of Orkney. The area in square miles, of 26 of the principal, is respectively
of Lomond, 45; Ness, 30; Awe, 30; Shin, 25; Maree, 24; Tay, 20; Archaig, 18; Shiell,
16; Lochy, 15; Laggan, 12; Monar, 12; Fannich, 10; Ericht, 10; Naver, 9; Earn, b;
Rannoch, 8; Stenness, 8; Leven, 7; Ken, 6; Lydoch, 6; Fuir, 6; Loval, 6; Katrine, 5;
Glas, 5; Doon, 4i; and Luichart, 3.
MINERALS.
Without supplying a geological map, and writing twentyfold more copiously than our space
will admit, we could not give an adequate view of the distribution of the rocks and minerals of
Scotland. But from ' Malte Bran's and Balbi's Systems of Geography Abridged : Edinburgh,
Adam and Charles Black, 1840,' we shall extract a summary, which will please the scientific
reader by its clearness, and the popular one by its wealth of information; and then we shall
exhibit in a brief summary the names and localities of all the rarer minerals of the country.
" In a general point of view," says that work, " Scotland may be separated, geologically
as well as geographically, into three portions. By passing a line on the map nearly straight,
from Stonehaven, through Dunkeld to the middle of the Isle of Bute, and thence with a
slight curve to the Mull of Kintyre, we shall have traced the southern boundary of the
primary non-fossiliferous system of rocks. Another line, but more irregular than the former,
drawn from St. Abb's-head, passing near Peebles, Abington, Sanquhar, New Cummock, to
about Girvan, will have a general parallelism with the former line, and will have the older
greywacke, now named the Cumbrian system, lying to the south, and extending to the bor-
ders; while the land included between the two lines comprehends the old red sandstone, and
great central coal basin of Scotland. We shall first notice the stratified systems of those
three divisions of the country, beginning with the oldest.
" That extensive tract of Scotland which constitutes the northern division, is composed
chiefly of primary stratified rocks, namely, gneiss, mica slate, chlorite slate, and clay slate,
with subordinate masses of hornblende slate, talc slate, and primitive limestone. These,
often with granitic centres, rise into magnificent mountains, of which the Grampians form a
part. In many of these deposits, particularly in the mica slate, garnets of a brown colour
are very abundant. The mountains of the Trosachs, so effectively described by Sir Walter
Scott, are chiefly composed of mica slate. Li these primary deposits no organic remains have
ever been discovered. But these are not the only stratified formations which constitute this
extensive district. The old red sandstone fringes the extremities of the land, commencing
about Fochabers, on the east side of the Moray frith; extending on both sides of Loch-Ness
within a short distance of Fort-Augustus, and then proceeding northwards with a variable
breadth through Fortrose, Tain, and Dornoch; expanding the whole breadth of Caithness,
and constituting the principal formation of the Orkney Isles. On the western side of the
mainland, the old red sandstone is deposited in numerous patches on the gneiss formation, as
at Loch Broom, Gairloch, and Applecross.
INTEODUCTION.
" The newer secondary rocks have been but very sparingly observed in Scotland; yet it is
rather a curious fact, that the few patches which have been discovered, are superimposed
generally on the old red sandstone, and have not been seen reposing in their uninterrupted
order in the secondary series. Thus the lias shales, highly micaceous, and some of the upper
beds of the oolitic system, occur at the mouth of the Cromarty frith from Dunrobin-castle
to the Ord of Caithness, at Applecross and other points on the mainland, — and in the Western
Isles, on the borders of Mull, the south and east of Skye, and near the Cock of Arran, on a
small coal deposit. The equivalent of the fresh-water deposits of the wealds of Sussex,
geologically situate above the oolitic group, and below the chalk, is seen near Elgin in Moray,
and Loch-Staffin in Skye. In the central and southern divisions of Scotland, those newer
groups of rocks have not been detected.
" In tracing the geological features of the country in the ascending order of the groups,
and confining ourselves to the geographical divisions pointed out, we next come to the transi-
tion or greywacke system, now divided into two principal sections, — the lower or Cumbrian,
and the upper or Silurian. So far as is hitherto ascertained, the Silurian division is unknown
in Scotland; but the Cumbrian rocks, nearly destitute of organic remains, cover the principal
part of the great area of the south of Scotland. These greywacke strata stand at high angles
of from 60° to 90° from the horizon, and consist chiefly of coarse slaty strata, seldom divisible
into thin roofing slates, and often alternating with arenaceous and coarse conglomerates.
Amongst these strata limestone is seldom found; and when it is, the quality is inferior. In
the division of the island of which we now treat, coal and its accompaniments are known in
very few places. Coal is, however, worked at Canoby, and on the borders at the Carter-Fell.
The only other rock formation found in connection with the old transition group here (with
the exception of igneous rocks), is a red sandstone, ascertained, in some situations, to be the
old red, but in some other places considered to be the new red sandstone, particularly in
Dumfries-shire, where the surfaces of the slabs have curious impressions, supposed to be those
of the feet of a species of tortoise.
" In the central division of Scotland is placed the great coal basin ; but adhering to our
rule of marking the successive formations in the ascending order, we shall first treat of the
old red sandstone, the most ancient rock in this subdivision of the country. This rock abuts
against the line of the primary rocks, and stretches across the whole country, from the
German ocean to the Atlantic, pursuing a south-westerly and north-easterly direction. From
the northern line of division it stretches south to the frith of Tay, bearing through Dunning,
near Stirling, to Dumbarton, and thence through the Western Isles, Bute and Arran, and is
wrapped nearly round the extremity of the mainland at the Mull of Kintyre. The old red
sandstone thus forms a long, uninterrupted, and extensive fertile valley. In the north-western
part it rises into hills, in the sides of one of which, Uam Vor, are deep and hideous fissures,
the effect of some convulsion. It is more irregularly distributed on the southern boundary
of the middle division, commencing on the east about Dunbar, and stretching westerly on the
line of the transition range of Moorfoot and Lammermoor-hills beyond Middleton, where it is
interrupted by a range of trap, but is again found in the country round Lanark. This for-
mation appears to be of vast thickness, especially in the northern part of the division, and
may, it is supposed from recent observation, be divided into three portions, the lower, the
middle, and the upper beds. In what are considered the lower strata, the remains of fishes
have been found in a high state of preservation, and also large scales and other remnants of
a sauroid character, such as those of the holoptychus. The well-known Arbroath pavement
belongs to the old red sandstone series.
" The most important group in the central district is the coal formation, consisting of lime-
stone, ironstone, freestone, coal, and clays. Its extent from east to west is bounded only by
the extremities of the land. To the north it is cut off from the old red sandstone by a range
of trap hills, crossing the country from east to west. On the south it is bounded by the
greywacke and old red sandstone. Its breadth averages 40 miles ; and it is in length about
70. The mountain limestone forms generally the basis of this group; though it is frequently
found interstratified with other members of the series, and abounds with countless numbers
of organic remains. Below the mountain limestone, however, but belonging to the same
group, a bed of limestone is worked at Burdiehouse, near Edinburgh, in which the organic
remains differ essentially from those of that just named. These remains consist of many of
the plants which distinguish the coal formation; but it also includes the teeth, scales, and
other bones of fish, which partake of the reptile character, some of which must have been of
INTRODUCTION.
xv
marantic dimensions
servation
Small fishes (the paleoniseus, &c.) are also found in a fine state of pre-
The same limestone has been found in other parts of the country, and is of
superior quality to the common limestone for mortar, plaster, and the smelting of iron. The
clay ironstone is found in beds and nodules, the workable kinds containing from 27 to 45 per
cent, of iron. The kind termed black-band is in high request. From this ore a vast quantity
of pig-iron is smelted. The coal is found in beds, varying from a few inches to 40 feet in
thickness ; and one bed in Ayrshire is about 100 feet thick, interrupted only by thin seams
of shale from 1 to 3 inches, and is extracted in great quantity, and used as fuel for domestic
purposes, the burning of lime, smelting of iron, working of steam-engines nn sea and
land. One variety, cannel-coal, is of superior quality for the preparation of gas. From
the fire-clay are manufactured fire-brick and gas retorts; and the sandstone furnishes an in-
exhaustible store of substantial and beautiful material for building. These several deposits
contain in abundance the impressions of the vegetables which distinguish the carboniferous
period; and what is remarkable, the remains of animals, the same as noted as occurring in the
Burdiehouse limestone, are found in the shales, and even in the coal itself. In this district,
no strata newer than the carboniferous system is known to exist; all is covered over with
accumulations of clays, gravels, sands, and soiL
" Having thus noticed the direction and geographical position of the several stratified
formations of Scotland, we now come to treat briefly of the unstratified system. And in
order to bring this department more clearly to the apprehension of the general reader, we
must remark, that the unstratified rocks are of igneous origin. They were, in fact, melted
volcanic matter, which had burst through the stratified deposits, which were thus elevated
into mountain-ranges ; the strata being at the same time raised on edge to various angles
with the horizon. This being the case, we consequently find that the unstratified follow the
same course with the stratified mountains, since the former were the elevating cause of the
latter. Now granite, an igneous rock, is more generally found connected with the primary
non-fossiliferous than with the succeeding formations, forming centres in gneiss and mica
slate, and rising above them in magnificent pinnacles. It is therefore in the primary region
that granitic mountains may be expected to predominate. Of this we find an instance in the
Grampian chain, which stretches in a north-east and south-west direction, intersecting the
country. The granite is most largely developed on the north-east side of the country. It
there commences about the parallel of Stonehaven, extends northward to Peterhead and
Banff, and, in a westerly direction, along the courses of the Dee and the Don, and still con-
tinues along the banks of the Tilt, Loch Ericht, Loch Lydoch, and terminates in this line
near Oban and Fort- William. From the latter rises Ben-Nevis, composed of granitic sienite.
But this is not the only range. Another may be traced commencing, in the north, between
Thurso and Portskerry, which passes along, at irregular distances, near Loch Baden, the
neighbourhood of Dornoch, Loch Oich, on the line of Loch Ness, and terminates in a lofty
mountain at the head of Loch Sunart, on the west coast. Granite is found in several of the
Western Isles, as in Rum, and is magnificently displayed in the Isle of Arran. Goatfell and
the surrounding peaks are of granite. The granitic summits of these mountains form the
highest land in Britain. Ben-Nevis is 4,373 feet above the level of the sea, and Ben-Macdhu
rises about 17 feet higher. Though the granitic formation covers a greater area, and rises
to a greater altitude in the north than in the south of Scotland, yet the latter is not deficient
in this interesting rock. It rises through the older greywacke (the Cumbrian system) in
Dumfries-shire; and occupies a great space in New Galloway, and in Kirkcudbright, and
near Kirkmaiden, in the form of dykes. In some of those mountains, stones fit for the
purposes of the jeweller have been found. The mountain Cairngorm, in Inverness-shire, has
long been celebrated for its rock crystal, of a smoke- brown colour, and named Cairngorm from
its locality, which, when cut by the lapidary, is highly esteemed for its colour and brilliancy,
and is employed for seals, brooches, and other ornamental purposes. Topazes of a light blue
colour, and sometimes of very large size, have occasionally been found on the same mountain,
and also beryl (aqua marine), more rarely.
" Unstratified rocks of every other kind also prevail in Scotland; including all the varieties
of trap (commonly named whinstone), basalt, greenstone, compact felspar, pitchstone, por-
phyries, and amygdaloids, which in many parts display ranges of symmetrical columns, some-
times of great extent, — as at Arthur-Seat near Edinburgh, in several parts of the coast of
Fife, in the islands of Eigg, Arran, Lamlash, and in the incomparable Staffa. But we shall
attend to the distribution of these rocks throughout the country. They are connected with
INTRODUCTION.
the older greywaeke and red sandstones of the south of Scotland. Trap forms a great part
of the Cheviots on the borders, and passes northwards into the districts of Dunse, Coldstream,
Kelso, Melrose, Selkirk, and Roxburghshire, rising into beautiful dome-shaped hills. Hou-
nam-Law, the Eildons, and Ruberslaw (the last, near 1,500 feet high), may be cited as ex-
amples. But in the great central valley of Scotland, beginning at Montrose on the east
coast, trap hills appear in patches in the old red sandstone, passing in an irregular line to the
frith of Tay, from the south-eastern extremity of which they proceed in a south-westerly
course, without interruption, but varying greatly in breadth, through Dunning, Kinross, and
Stirling, to Dumbarton. Another line, but less continuous, commences about Cupar, near
St. Andrews, along the coasts of Fifeshire, and appears in groups about Linlithgow, Bathgate,
near Glasgow, onwards to Paisley, and thence to Greenock, where it is greatly expanded,
and turns north to the banks of the Clyde, nearly opposite the Dumbarton range. A third
parallel range, also in interrupted masses, commences at Dunbar, is continued in the Pentlands,
Tinto, and other hills in Lanarkshire, and in Ayrshire about Kilmarnock, Ayr, and New Cum-
nock. In Galloway, trap is in some parts greatly expanded. A few of those localities may be
mentioned, as we are not aware that any public notice has yet been given of its existence in
those parts. A dyke of greenstone occurs near Kirkcolm point in greywaeke, at the western
extremity of Loch Ryan ; Cairn-Pat, between Stranraer and Port-Patrick, is also greenstone ;
and thence, the greywaeke of the whole coast to the Mull of Galloway is intersected by
dykes and hills of several varieties of trap. On the northern side of Loch Ryan, it is seen
involved amongst the roofing slates of the Cairn ; and a range of trap hills extends thence,
rising through the greywaeke, flanking the edge of the loch, taking a south-easterly direction,
passing by Castle-Kennedy to the north, and onwards to New-Luce. Here it expands to an
enormous extent in every direction ; to the south it approaches Glenluce-bay. At Knocky-
bay, a short distance north of New-Luce, a lead mine was at one time worked, but becoming
unproductive, was abandoned. It may, however, be observed, that the greatest development *
of trap is in the great central coal district, where it has fractured the strata, and raised the
edges of the coal seams to the surface, an important natural operation, by which coal and its
other useful accompaniments, ironstone, limestone, and building materials, have been made
known and accessible. In the trap rocks of Scotland many interesting minerals are found.
The far-famed Scotch agate or pebble abounds in nodules included in trap, near Montrose,
Perth, and other places ; and many of the most beautiful of the zeolites are found among the
hills around Dumbarton, the opposite side of the Clyde, and in many other localities.
" The coal-fields constitute the principal mineral treasures of Scotland. The great coal
district extends across the island from the eastern corner, or, as the district is termed in Low-
land Scotch, the ' East Neuk ' of Fife, to the mouth of the Clyde in Dumbartonshire on the
west, and into East-Lothian on the east. It is not, however, continuous throughout the
whole distance, but consists rather of a succession of large detached coal-fields. Its superficial
extent has been estimated at nearly 1,000 square miles; and it has also been calculated that,
according to the present consumption, it may be worked with advantage during 3,000 years.
The Fife coal-field, north of the Forth, extends from Stirling to St. Andrews, and is in some
places 10 miles broad. The richest portion of it lies between Dysart and Alloa. The
Lothian coal-field, on the south and east of Edinburgh, is about 25 miles in length, with a
breadth of five or six, and covers an area of 80 square miles. To the westward of Edinburgh
there is no coal for several miles ; but at Bathgate, workable beds are found, which extend
westward, with some interruptions, to the neighbourhood of Glasgow, forming the great
coal-field of Lanarkshire. The Clyde and the Forth form the boundaries of this field ; but
beyond Blantyre, the coal extends on the south side of the Clyde to the Cathkin-hills. After
passing Glasgow, the coal-field stretches westward from the south bank of the Clyde, and
occupies the valley in the line of the Ardrossan canal, extending through Renfrewshire to
Dairy in Ayrshire; the most southerly point being at Girvan. Several small fields occur at
different parts of the south of Scotland, particularly at Sanquhar, in Dumfries-shire, and
Canoby, in the same county, on the borders of England. Coal is found also at Brora in
Sutherlandshire, and Campbelton in Kintyre, but in insignificant quantities. Besides the
fossil fuel yielded by the coal-fields, ironstone of excellent quality abounds in many of them ;
and is smelted to a great amount, and manufactured into articles suited for every useful pur-
pose, at the great works of Carron, Shotts, Cleland, Airdrie, Clyde, Wilsontown, Muirkirk,
Glenbuck, and some other places. It is the abundance and cneapness of coal in its vicinity
that has enabled Glasgow to rival Manchester as a manufacturing emporium.
INTRODUCTION.
" Next to the coal and ironstone, the most valuable mineral product of Scotland is lead, of
which there are rich mines at Leadhills and Wanlockhead, in the Lowther-hills, on the borders
of Lanarkshire and Dumfries-shire. Lead is also procured at Dollar in Clackmannanshire,
Strontian in Argyleshire, Belleville in Inverness-shire, and Leadlaw in Peebles-shire. A
considerable quantity of silver is extracted from the lead. Particles of gold have frequently
been found in the small streams among the Lowther-hills, and also immediately under tho
vegetable soil which covers the surface of the latter. Scotland abounds in quarries of the
finest building materials, particularly sandstone. Hence the beauty of the numerous public
edifices which adorn its cities and towns. The principal sandstone quarries are Craigleith, a
little to the west of Edinburgh ; Binnie, near Uphall, Linlithgowshire ; Humbie, near South
Queensferiy, also in Linlithgowshire; Giffneugh, near Glasgow, Lanarkshire; Longannet,
near Kincardine, Perthshire; and Milnefield or Kingoodie, near Longforgan, Perthshire.
Roofing-slates, only inferior to those procured in Wales, are quarried extensively at Balla-
chulish, and in the island of Easdale, both in Argyleshire. Granite is brought from Aberdeen
to pave the streets of London ; and the granite of Kirkcudbright has been partly used in the
construction of the Liverpool docks. Variegated or veined marble, of a beautiful appearance,
is found in Sutherlandshire, at Glentilt in Perthshire, at Tiree in Argyleshire, at Muriston in
West-Lothian, and. in other places,"
Oetohedral alum occurs at Hurlet near Paisley, at Creetown in Galloway, and in the vicinity
of Moffat; rock-butter, at Hurlet; compact gypsum, in the Campsie-hills ; fibrous gypsum, in
Dumbartonshire, in the vicinity of Moffat, and on the banks of the Whitadder; foliated fluor,
in various situations, but rarely, though abundant in England ; conchoidal apatite, or aspar-
agus stone, near Kincardine, in Ross-shire, and in the Shetland isles; common arragonite, or
prismatic limestone, in the lead mines of Leadhills, and in secondary trap-rocks in various
situations; fibrous calc-cinter, the alabaster of the ancients, in Macallister's-cave in Skye;
slate-spar, imbedded in marble in Glen-Tilt, and in Assynt ; common compact lucullite, or
black marble, in some hills of Assynt; stinkstone, or swinestone, in Kirkbean, and the
vicinity of North-Berwick; white domolite, in beds containing tremolite, in Iona; and
brachytypous limestone, or rhomb-spar, near Newton-Stewart and on the banks of Loch-
Lomond.
Foliated brown-spar occurs in the lead mines of Leadhills and Wanlockhead; columnar
brown-spar, on the banks of Loch-Lomond, and near Newton-Stewart ; prismatic or electric
calamine, at Wanlockhead; pyramid o-prismatic baryte, or strontianite, at Strontian in Argyle-
shire ; foliated prismatoidal baryte, or celestine, at Inverness, and in the Calton-hill of Edin-
burgh; white lead-spar, and black lead-spar, at Leadhills; indurated, friable, and green
earthy lead-spars, prismatic lead-spar, or sulphate of lead, and radiated prismatic blue mala-
chite, or blue copper, at Leadhills and Wanlockhead ; fibrous common malachite, at Sandlodge,
in the mainland of Shetland ; radiated cobalt-mica, or cobalt-bloom, at Alva in Stirlingshire,
and in the limestone of the coal measures in Linlithgowshire ; earthy blue iron, on the sur-
face of peat mosses in Shetland; scaly graphite, in Strath-Beauly in Inverness-shire, and in
the coal formation near Cumnock; foliated chlorite, in Jura; earthy chlorite, along with
common chlorite, at Forneth-cottage in Perthshire; other chlorites, variously, and in abun-
dance; common talc, in Perthshire, Aberdeenshire, and Banffshire; indurated talc, or talc-
slate, in Perthshire, Banffshire, and Shetland; and steatite, or soapstone, in the limestone of
Iona, and the trap-rocks of the Lothians, Arran, Skye, and some other places,
Diatomous schiller-spar occurs in the serpentine of Fetlar and Unst in Shetland, and of Portsoy
in Banffshire, in the greenstone of Fifeshire, in the porphyritic rock of Calton-hill, and in the
trap of Craig-Lockhart, near Edinburgh ; hemiprismatic schiller-spar, or bronzite, jn Skye, and
near Dimnadrochit in Inverness-shire; prismatoidal schiller-spar, or hypersthene, in Skye
and Banffshire; kyanite in primitive rocks at Boharm in Banffshire, and near Banchory in
Aberdeenshire, and in mica-slate near Sandlodge in the mainland of Shetland; fibrous preh-
nite, in veins and cavities in the trap of Castle-rock, Salisbury-Crag, and Arthur-Seat,
Edinburgh, of Bishopton and Hartfield in Renfrewshire, of Cockney-burn and Loch-Hum-
phrey in Dumbartonshire, of the vicinity of Beith in AjTshire, and of Berwickshire, Mull, and
Raasay; rhomboidal zeolite, or chabasite, in crystals in the vesicular cavities of the Mull and
Skye trap; mealy zeolite, or mesotype, near Tantallan-.castle in Haddingtonshire, and in
Mull, Skye, and Canna; pyramidal zeolite, or apophyllite, in the trap-rocks of Skye, some
other species of zeolite, variously, and in abundance; adularia, a rare sub-species of prismatic
felspar, in the granite of Arran ; compact felspar, a more common sub-species, in the Pentland
B
INTEODUCTION.
hills, in the Ochil hills, in Tinto, and in Papa-Stour in Shetland; other sub-species of
prismatic felspar, in numerous localities ; sahlite, a sub-species of pyramido-prismatic augite,
in Unst, Tiree, Harris, Glentilt, Glenelg, and Eannoch; asbestous tremolite, in Glentilt,
Glenelg, Iona, Shetland, and other places; common tremolite in Glentilt, Glenelg, and
Shetland; rock-cork, a kind of asbestos, in veins in the serpentine of Portsoy, and in
the red sandstone of Kincardineshire, in small quantities at Kildrummie in Aberdeen-
shire, and in plates in the lead veins of Leadhills and Wanlockhead ; flexible asbestos, or
amianthus, in the serpentine of Portsoy, Lewis, and Harris, of Mainland, Unst and Fetlar in
Shetland, and in some other places; and rigid or common asbestos, in the serpentine of
Shetland, Long-Island, and Portsoy.
Epidote or pistacite occurs in the syenite of Arran and of the Shetland mainland, in the
gneiss of Sutherland, in the trap of Mull and Skye, in the quartz of Iona and Eona, and in
the porphyry of Glencoe and other districts ; common zoisite, in Shetland, Glenelg, and the
banks of Loch-Lomond; common andalusite, in the primitive rocks of Aberdeenshire, Banff-
shire, and Shetland; saussurite, between Ballantrae and Girvan; common topaz, in an
alluvium in the granite and gneiss districts of Mar and Cairngorm; schorlous topaz, or
schorlite, in Mar; beryl, along with topaz and rock-crystal, in an alluvium among the Cairn-
gorm range ; common amethyst, in greenstone and amygdaloid, in many localities ; rock or
mountain crystal — a variety of which is the Scottish Cairngorm stone — in the alluvium of the
Cairngorm district, in drusy cavities in the granite of Arran, and in various other geognostic
and topographical positions ; rose or milk quartz, in the primitive rocks of various districts ;
conchoidal hornstone, in the Pentland-hills ; common calcedony, in most of the trap dis-
tricts; carnelian, in most of the secondary trap districts, solitarily or in agate; striped jasper,
in the clay porphyry of the Pentland-hills ; porcelain jasper, among pseudo-volcanic rocks in
Fifeshire; agate jasper, in the agates of central Scotland; precious and common garnet,
variously in primitive rocks; prismatic garnet, or cinnamon-stone, in gneiss near Kincardine
in Eoss-shire ; prismatoidal garnet, or grenatite, in Aberdeenshire and Shetland ; and com-
mon zircon and hyacinth, in Galloway, Inverness-shire, Sutherland, Shetland, and other
districts.
Common sphene, or prismatic titanium-ore, occurs in the syenite of Inverary, in Criffel and
other Galloway-hills, and in some other parts of Scotland; rutile, or prismato-pyramidal
titanium-ore, in the granite of Cairngorm, and the quartz of Killin and Bengloe ; prismatic
wolfram, in the island of Kona; iron sand or granular magnetic iron-ore, in the trap-rocks of
various districts ; micaceous specular iron-ore, at Fitful-head in Shetland, in clay-slate near
Dunkeld, and in the mica-slate of Benmore ; red hematite, or fibrous red iron-ore, in veins in
the secondary greenstone of Salisbury-Crags, and in the sandstone of Cumber-head in Lan-
arkshire; columnar red clay iron-ore, among other pseudo-volcanic productions in Fifeshire;
pea-ore, or pisiform brown-clay iron-ore, in the secondary rocks of Galston ; bog iron-ore, in
various parts of the Highlands and Islands ; scaly brown manganese-ore, near Sandlodge in
Shetland; grey manganese-ore, near Aberdeen; octahedral copper, in the serpentine of Yell,
and the sandstone of Mainland in Shetland ; prismatic nickel pyrites, or copper-nickel, at
Leadhills and Wanlockhead, and in the coal-field of Linlithgowshire ; nickel ochre, in the
same localities as the last, and at Alva; prismatic arsenic pyrites, at Alva; magnetic or
rhomboidal iron pyrites, in Criffel, Windyshoulder, and other Galloway hills; yellow or
pyramidal copper pyrites, near Tyndrum in Perthshire, and in the Mainland of Shetland;
grey copper, or tetrahedral copper-glance, at Sandlodge in Shetland, at Airth in Stirlingshire,
at Fassney-burn in Haddingtonshire, and in the vicinity of Girvan ; vitreous copper, or pris-
matic copper-glance, in Ayrshire, at Fassney-burn, and in Fair Isle ; rhomboidal molybdena,
in granite and syenite at Peterhead, in chlorite-slate in Glenelg, and in granite at the head
of Loch-Creran ; molybdena ochre, along with the last, at the head of Loch-Creran ; grey
antimony, or prismatoidal antimony-glance, in greywacke at Jamestown in Dumfries- shire,
and among primitive rocks, accompanied by green fluor, in Banffshire; yellow zinc-blende,
at Clifton near Tyndrum ; and brown zinc-blende, at Clifton, and in small veins with galena,
in the Mid-Lothian coal-field.
Amber, or yellow mineral resin, is found on the sea-beach ; petroleum, or mineral oil at
St. Catherine's well in the parish of Liberton, and in Orkney ; asphaltum, or slaggy mineral
pitch, in secondary limestone in Fifeshire, and in clay ironstone in Haddingtonshire: indu-
rated lithomarge, in nidular portions, occasionally in secondary trap and porphyry rocks;
mountain soap, in secondary trap in Skye; chiastolite, in clay-slate near Ballachulish in
INTRODUCTION. six
Argyleshire; iserine, in the sand of the Don and the Dee; and pinite, in porphyry in Ben-
gloe and near Inverary.
PLANTS.
Scotland, in a botanical view, may be conveniently divided into three regions, — the frigid,
the middle, and the genial. The frigid region comprises only the shoulders and summits of
lofty mountains, or of alpine tableaux, which are covered for most part of the year with snow ;
and it contains no sort of vegetation, except some of the minute lichens and mosses which almost
everywhere rostel on the surface of bare rocks, and assist the first processes of disintegra-
tion. The middle region extends downward from the lowest limits of mere lichens and
mosses, to the upmost limits of cultivated plants. Much of it, especially on the primitive
rocks, both stratified and amorphous, presents a sparse savage mixture of the useful and the
useless in indigenous herbage ; but much also, especially on the trap and the Cumbrian rocks,
abounds in good sward, and constitutes excellent sheep pasture. The upper parts are only
a degree or two less barren than the frigid region ; the middle parts are variously sprinkled,
patched, or covered with coarse grasses, heaths, and alpine herbs; and the lower parts are
much diversified with brown moors, verdant expanses, and pine forests. The genial region
comprises all the country below the limits which can be reached by the plough. Its chief
constituents are the dry deep soils on the skirts of mountains and the sides of hills, — the
straths, the outspread plains, and the undulating surfaces incumbent on the secondary rocks,
— and the carses, the haughs, and the holms, in the bottoms of glens and valleys, along the
course of streams. The parts of it not under cultivation, excepting bogs, sands, and
similar wastes, are remarkable either for rich verdure or for luxuriance and variety of general
vegetation; and the other parts, at least in all the best districts, exult in gorgeous intermix-
tures of meadow, corn-field, garden, shrubbery, park, and grove. Some of its crop plants,
in fine situations, thrive so high as 1,500 feet above sea-level; but wheat, even in the most
favourable circumstances, can seldom reach maturity at a greater height than 600 feet.
Many plants are peculiar to Scotland, as distingushed either from all the rest of the United
Kingdom, or from all or most of the rest of the world. Some belong to the lichens and mosses
of the frigid region, and some to the cryptogams of the other regions ; but these, though curious
to botanists, possess little interest for general readers. We shall notice only the principal
peculiar phaenogams; and, as the great majority of them belong to the middle region, so that
they cannot be instructively classified on any topographical principle, we may name them in
the order of their natural families, — descending from the most complicated exogens to the
simplest endogens.
Of the ranunculus family there are the alpine crowfoot and the rooting marsh-marigold.
Of the cruciferous family are the rock draba, the daisy-leaved ladies'-smock, the Greenland
scurvy -grass, and the hispid rock-wall-cress. Of the violet family is the pleasing violet. Of
the carnation family are the alpine lychnis, the cerastium-like stitehwort, the scape-bearing
stitch wort, the fascicled sandwort, the tetrandrous mousear-chickweed, and the sagina-Hke
spurrey. Of the leguminous family are the mean milk-vetch, the mountain field milk-vetch,
and the silky uralian milk-vetch. Of the rose family are the grey dog-rose, the golden
cinquefoil, and the three-toothed-leaved cinquefoil. Of the saxifrage family are fourteen
saxifrages, the drooping, the brook, the pedatifid, the hairy, the broad-petalled, the stripped,
the pigmy, the dense, the lively green, the clammy moss-like, the mossy moss-like, the pretty
moss-like, the narrow-leaved moss-like, and the longish-stalked. Of the umbelliferous family
are the golden chervil and the sparrow masterwort. Of the valerian family is the Pyrenean
valerian. Of the composite family are the alpine sow-thistle, the fair crepis, the northern
antennaria, the alpine erigeron, the one-flowered erigeron, and six hawkweeds, the peranthus-
leaved, the soft-leaved, the honeywort-like, the villous, the small-toothed, and the lungwort-
like. Of the heath family are the blue menziesia and the black-berried alpine bear's grape.
Of the gentian family is the snow gentian. Of the borage family is the tuberous comfrey.
Of the figwort family are four speedwells, the rocky, the shrub-like, the bristled, and the ob-
tuse-leaved alpine. Of the labiate family is the woolly thyme. Of the primrose family is the
Scottish androsace. Of the amentaceous family are twenty-two willows, the shining, the
glaucous, the woolly, the sand, the phylica-leaved, the plum-leaved, the myrsine-like, the
veiny-leaved, the bilberry-leaved, the keel-leaved, the little tree, the withered-pointed, the
silky rock, the phillyrea-leaved, the slenderer, Borer's, Davall's, Dickson's, Don's, Stuart's,
INTRODUCTION.
Anderson's and Foster's. Of the coniferous family are the hooked-coned pine and the High-
land Speyside pine.
Of the orchis family are the inborn corallorrhiza and the white-flowered gnat-like gymna-
denia. Of the smilax family is the whorl-leaved Solomon's seal. Of the asphodel family is
the narrow-leaved victorial garlic. Of the rush family are the arched luzula, the spiked
luzula, and four rushes, the many-headed, the supine, the chestnut, and Gesner's. Of the
rope-grass family is the seven-angled pipewort. Of the sedge family are the rufous club-rush,
the slender cotton-grass, the headed cotton-grass, the alpine trichophorum, and eleven carices,
the curved, the slender, the russet, the banded-spiked, the brown-spiked, the scorched alpine,
the rare-flowered, the rye-like, the dotted-fruited, Vahl's, and Mielichofer's. And of the grass
family are the northern hierochloe, the alpine foxtail, the alpine cat's-tail, Micheli's cat's-tail,
the glornerated deschampsia, the smooth-leaved deschampsia, the close calamagrostis, the reed-
like schedonorus, the long-leaved giant brome-grass, the alpine poa, the zigzag poa, the grey
poa, and the awnless arrhenatherum.
But the large majority of Scotland's wild plants are common to it with England ; and the
most conspicuous of these occur either as weeds on the tilled lands of its genial region, or as
inhabitants of that region's woods and wastes. Mr. Watson, speaking of this, says, — " It is
the region where flourish the trees and bloom the flowers rendered classic by our poets, and
not the less loved by many of us, that their very commonness has made them familiar by
vernacular names, without the aid of botanical systems or a dead language. It is, par ex-
cellence, the land of the daisy and cowslip, the oak and hawthorn, the hazel copse and the
woodbine bower ; the region of fruits and flowers, where the trees of the forest unite a grace-
ful beauty with strength and majesty, and where the fresh green sward of the pasture, com-
mingling with the yellow waves of the corn-field, tell us that here at least, ' the cheek of
spring smiles in the kiss of autumn.' The downs and chases, in early spring, are covered
with the countless blossoms of the golden gorse, or the more gaudy broom, and empurpled
with the different kinds of heath during summer and autumn. Little indeed as we may re-
gard these shrubs, in Sweden and North Russia the gorse is prized as we prize the myrtles
of the south ; and our common heaths are unknown over a wide extent of Europe. A climate
in which the heat of summer is rarely excessive, and where rain and clouds are so frequent,
is unadapted to the spontaneous growth of fruits; and we accordingly find our native pro-
ductions poor in the extreme. The wild cherry, crab, bullace, and native pear are the
arborescent fruit-trees. The raspberry, strawberry, blackberry, sloe, hazel-nut, hip, and haw,
form a very indifferent catalogue for our shrubby and herbaceous fruit-plants. The cran-
berry, bilberry, and crowberry, with the fruit of the rowan and juniper, common to the culti-
vated region and the one above it, are greatly surpassed by one fruit, almost peculiar to the
latter, namely, the cloudberry. The changes produced by cultivation on some of the first
mentioned fruits, it is unnecessary to detail. Lastly, the different kinds of gooseberries and
currants cultivated in our gardens are probably derived from species indigenous to Britain,
and are very apt to spring up in our woods and hedges from translated seeds."
In Shetland, in Orkney, in the Hebrides, and in most of the Highlands, the range of culti-
vated plants is comparatively narrow ; but in most of the Lowlands, and in some nooks of the
Highlands, it is as broad and various as the conditions of soil, climate, and market economy
will permit. Cultivation in all departments, from the sturdiest indigen to the most tender
exotic, is so well understood by multitudes of Scotchmen that our foresters, our farmers, and
our gardeners have extensively won the reputation, in other countries, of being the most skil-
ful in the world. A large proportion of our farms are cropped, not only with rotations of all
things most compensating in the nearest markets, but with varieties or hybrids of these most
suitable to the specialities of soil and place; many of our woods, especially of the more recent
ones, contain fine admixtures and luxuriant forms of native and foreign trees; many parks
and shrubberies are currently adorned with specimens of rare or recently-discovered hardy
exotics, almost as soon as these can be obtained ; and not a few of the best gardens, private
as well as public, in the various departments both of the open ground and of the glazed cover,
are absolute museums of foreign botany. We manifestly have not space for even the shortest
select list of Scotland's cultivated plants ; and must content ourselves with naming the chief
Scottish varieties of the three common cereal farm-plants, as indications of the care which is
taken to produce or discover new good varieties, and to adapt them to circumstances.
Of oats there are the Hopetoun oat, a famous variety which originated about twenty-five
years ago in East Lothian ; the early Angus oat, extensively cultivated in the north-eastern
INTRODUCTION.
districts; the late Angus oat, extensively cultivated in the central districts; the Cupar-G range
oat, a prolific but late sub-variety of the late Angus ; the Blainslie oat, of variable reputation
during about fifty years past for high and late situations in the south-eastern districts; the
Drummond oat, adapted to strong clay soils, and cultivated in some parts of Perthshire; the
Magbiehall oat, which originated long ago in Peebles-shire; and the Dyock oat, which
originated about twenty-three years ago in the vicinity of Aberdeen, and has been found well
suited, in all parts of the kingdom, to poor soils in cold high situations. Of barleys there are
bere or bigg, extensively cultivated in the Hebrides and Highlands, and peculiarly suitable
for exposed light grounds ; the Scotch barley, which admits of great latitude in the time
of sowing, and was once in pre-eminent favour with brewers and distillers; and the Annat
barley, which originated twenty-three years ago in the Carse of Gowrie, and has superior
qualities, though inferior adaptation, to the universally favourite Chevalier. And of wheat
there are the common white wheats of East Lothian, the Carse of Gowrie, Morayshire, and
other districts, all called Scotcli white wheats, but perceptibly differing from one another in
qualities and adaptation ; Hunter's wheat, which originated on a moor in Berwickshire, and
has long been famous in the south-eastern districts ; Mungoswells wheat, which originated
about twenty-five years ago in East Lothian, and contests the palm with Hunter's; the white
golden drop wheat, which originated twenty years ago in the Carse of Gowrie, and has a
medium character between the common-eared wheats and the turgid ones; the Hopetoun
wheat, which originated twenty-two years ago in East Lothian, and has challenged much
attention in comparative experiments ; and the white-bearded Shanry wheat, which originated
about twenty years ago in Perthshire, and is a very superior winter bearded wheat. Many
other varieties and subvarieties, less known or of less value, might be added ; and the Scottish
varieties and hybrids of some other field-plants are correspondingly numerous.
ANIMALS.
The zoology of Scotland comprises multitudes of interesting species which are common to
it with other countries, but very few interesting species or varieties which are peculiar to itself.
Its zoophytes, and some of its worms, present many attractions to naturalists, but scarcely
any to general observers. Some of its entozoons and its insects possess a sad interest to
stock farmers, for the diseases they create in sheep and cattle; and many of its insects and
its land molluscs possess a similar interest to arable farmers, gardeners, orchardists, and
foresters, for the injuries or the destruction they inflict on crops; but none of these are
peculiar. The crustaceans, the sea molluscs, and the salt-water fishes yield an abundant
trade to fishermen and fishmongers. The fresh-water fishes afford ample sport to anglers, as
well as some curious study to naturalists; and a beautiful one of them, called the vendace,
peculiar to a single lake in the parish of Lochmaben, is not a little interesting to all classes
of observers. The reptiles, happily, comprise few species; but among these are a profusion
of the odious toad and great plenty of the noxious viper.
The birds, including the migratory as well as the stationary, amount to nearly three
hundred species. Among the aquatic birds are wild ducks, wild geese, the gannet, the wild
swan, gulls, terns, guillemots, sand-pipers, snipes, the heron, the bittern, and the stork.
Among the predatory birds are owls, hawks, the kestril, the raven, the magpie, the butcher-
bird, the osprey, and the eagle. Among the singing birds are linnets, larks, the thrush, the
starling, the bulfinch, the goldfinch, the seskin, the blackbird, and the blackcap. And
among the game birds are the woodcock, the partridge, the blackcock, the red grouse, the
grey ptarmigan, the quail, the landrail, the pheasant, and the plover. The capercailzie, or
cock of the wood, who once walked our mountains as king of the gallinaceous tribes, and was
exterminated by the excessive pursuit of sportsmen about the middle of last century, has of late
years been reintroduced from Sweden to several upland estates, and may possibly become
once more a familiar inhabitant of our highland wastes. The domesticated fowls comprise
all the approved kinds of poultry, both economical and ornamental, in fine selection and
under good management; but do not present any peculiar, or at least remarkable, Scottish
breeds.
The wild mammals comprise sixteen sea-species and thirty-seven land-species. Seals are
particularly numerous. The common rabbit, the common hare, and even the alpine hare are
abundant. The roebuck, the fallow deer, and the red deer are carefully preserved in the
Highlands, and form a prime object of interest to sportsmen. The principal other native
xxii INTRODUCTION.
mammals are the fox, the wild cat, the otter, the marten, the polecat, the stoat, the weasel,
the mole, the brown rat, the common mouse, the field mouse, the squirrel, the hedgehog, the
common bat, and the long-eared bat. At a former period, the bear, the wolf, and the curious
white Caledonian ox were denizens of Scotland; but the bear was exterminated in the eleventh
century, the last wolf was killed in the year 1686, and the Caledonian ox now survives
only in small numbers, under careful keeping, in the parks of Hamilton Castle in Lanarkshire,
Taymouth Castle in Perthshire, and Chillingham Castle in Northumberland. Two domestica-
ble species of foreign quadrupeds also have recently been introduced as curiosities, — the
bison into the park of Taymouth Castle, and the alpaca into that park and the park of Buch-
anan House in Stirlingshire.
The common hog of the Hebrides and the Highlands is a direct descendant of the wild
hog of the ancient Caledonians, very small in size, of an uniform grey colour, with a shaggy
coat of long hairs and bristles, and feeding on the hills without any artificial shelter in the
same manner as mountain sheep. The Orkney hog and the Shetland hog are somewhat
similar, but very ugly, very mischievous, and scarcely larger than an English terrier. The
Lowland Scotch hog is a dingy, long-legged, lumpish, uncouth, thriftless animal of many
subvarieties, passing up by imperceptible gradations from the size of the Highland hog to a
size very much greater; but, though at a recent period quite general throughout the southern
and the eastern counties, it is now, in a main degree, obliterated and supplanted by multi-
tudes of crossings with the Chinese and the English breeds.
The Highland pony, or small native horse of the Highlands, lives almost wholly in the open
air, in winter as well as in summer, and is a short-legged, sure-footed, sagacious traverser of
the mountain and the bog. The sheltie or Shetland pony is so small as to seem almost like
a toy, but very symmetrical and very docile, and has a strength and an endurance enormously
greater than might be expected from its size. The Galloway horse originated in Wigtonshire,
— it is said, from some Spanish horses which were thrown ashore in the wreck of one of the
ships of the celebrated Armada. It is an elegant, stout, sure-footed, mountain-scaling crea-
ture, commonly not quite fourteen hands high. But it began long ago to be generally sub-
jected to cross-breeding, with the view of enlarging it into fitness for the plough ; and now,
except in a few instances in such remote situations as the island of Mull, it has everywhere
become extinct. Yet in lingering recollection of its excellence, the name of galloway con-
tinues to be given to every kind of horse which is supposed to resemble it in size and hardi-
ness. The Clydesdale horse originated about 150 years ago in the central parts of Lanark-
shire, in a steady assiduous process of crossings between the native horse and the Flemish
one. It has for many years been quite common throughout all the best districts of the
Lowlands; and it possesses such eminent value both on the road and on the farm as to be quite
equal, or more than equal, for required work at minimum cost, to all the best English heavy
draught breeds combined.
The Hebridean sheep is very small in size, thin, lank, and of comparatively little value,
with wool of various colours from bluish-grey to deep russet. The Shetland sheep is small,
handsome, wild, active, and hardy, with a fleece of soft, short, cottony wool, adapted to very
fine manufactures. The Highland sheep is the descendant of an ancient race, with yellow
face, yellow legs, and a dishevelled unequal fleece, but is now nearly extinct. The black-faced
or heath sheep was introduced from Northumberland many centuries ago to the southern
counties of Scotland, and from these about the middle of last century to all the Highlands,
western, central, and northern, away even to the Pentland frith. It is a hardy animal, valu-
able for its mutton, but with a coarse fleece. The best subvarieties of it are those of Peebles-
shire. The Cheviot sheep has existed from time immemorial on the Cheviot mountains, and
has thence been spread over the southern highlands of Scotland, and over large tracts of the
central and the northern highlands, — in some places supplanting the black-faced sheep, and
in others competing with it for popular favour. It differs materially from that sheep in at
once character, habit, and adaptation, — particularly in having shorter and finer wool, a more
docile disposition, and a distaste for pastures which are over -run with heath or not freely
gramineous.
All the native Scotch breeds and sub-breeds of bovine cattle, excepting three, are of the
class called middle-horned ; the three excepted breeds being hornless, and all the others hav-
ing horns of intermediate size between short and long. The Shetlanders are the smallest,
but have no superiors or even equals in the quality of their beef. The North Highlanders,
including those of Orkney and Caithness, are much larger than the Shetlanders, but also
INTRODUCTION.
much coarser and far less handsome ; yet they comprise two sub-breeds in Sutherlandshire,
the Dunrobins and the Skibos, which have a high reputation. The West Highlanders or
Kyloes are a shaggy race, far superior to the North Highlanders, and also older and more im-
proved ; nevertheless, in consequence of being very widely diffused throughout the Highlands
and Hebrides, they comprise many sub-breeds of very various value. The Falklands are an
old celebrated Fifeshire breed, supposed to have been introduced from the south of England
by some of the kings of Scotland, who occasionally resided at Falkland; but they have be-
come very scarce, and are likely soon to disappear. The runts, as they are contemptuously
called, of Aberdeenshire and Fifeshire, are large, ill-shaped, half-haggard creatures, yielding
beef which is bad for the retail butcher, but suits well to be salted and shipped. The Ayr-
shires make bad returns in the shambles, but have a high fame, long an unrivalled one, for the
dairy; and besides being the pet-cattle of Ayrshire, are extensively diffused through the
neighbouring counties as far as West Lothian. Of late years, however, they have been ex-
tensively outrivalled, in other parts of the southern Lowlands, by the English short-horns.
The Buchan doddies, the Angus humlies, and the Galloway cattle, the three hornless breeds
— the first abounding in the northern and central parts of Aberdeenshire, the second spread
over all Forfarshire, all Kincardineshire, the south-eastern part of Aberdeenshire, and many
parts of Fifeshire, and the third spread over all Wigtonshire, all Kirkcudbrightshire, the
southern part of Ayrshire, and a considerable part of Dumfries-shire — are all excellent beef-
yielding breeds, well known and much appreciated in the English markets, — the Galloways
alone constituting one-third of all the cattle of Smithfield from March till July.
CLIMATE.
The climate of Shetland, of Orkney, and of the Hebrides has, in the case of each, some
marked peculiarities, which are noticed in the articles devoted to their description. Even
that of the mainland, owing to the bold and remarkably varied contour of the country, is so
singularly various, as to offer matter for distinctive remark in notices of most counties, and
even of not a few parishes.
In a general view, the heat, in consequence of the country's insularity, and of its frequent
and long indentations by the sea, is much higher in winter, and more moderate in summer,
than in the same latitudes on the continent. The temperature, except in moorlands in the
interior, and the more mountainous districts, seldom remains long at the freezing-point; nor,
in any part of the country, does it often rise to what is called Indian heat, or to an intensity
which incommodes the labour of the field. The extremes, so far as they have been observed,
are 92° of Fahrenheit, and 3° below zero ; but, in the case of both, are rarely and very briefly
approached. The ordinary greatest range of the thermometer is between 84° and 8°. The
mean annual temperature for the whole country is from 45° to 47°; and at the lowest is
41° 11, — at the highest 50° 32. Nor does the average descend as the observer moves north-
ward, or to the vicinity or into the interior of the Highlands. For the mean temperature of
Dumfries, deduced from the observation of 9 years, is 42° 327 ; that of Glasgow, as deter-
mined by Professor Thomson, is 47° 75 ; that of Edinburgh, as determined by Professor Play-
fair, is 47° 7 ; that of St. Andrews, deduced from the observation of 8 years, is 48° 01 ; that
of Perth, deduced from the observation of 9 years, is 48° 131 ; that of Aberdeen, deduced
from the observation of 10 years, is 47° 648; and that of Liverness, deduced from the obser-
vation of 13 years, is 48° 09.
The range of the barometer is often both great and rapid, and averages throughout the
mainland 2-82 inches, or from 36'92 to 28"10. Snow is less copious, though probably more
frequent, in its falls than in the south of England; and rain, on the average, is less than in
the west of England. The joint quantity of the two has an annual mean amount for the
kingdom of from 30 to 31 inches, but differs widely on the east and on the west coast, —
varying, on the former, from 22 to 26 inches, and, on the latter, from 35 to 46 inches. At
Dumfries, the mean annual quantity, as deduced from the observation of 7 years, is 33'54
inches ; at Glasgow, from the observation of 31 years, 22-4 inches ; at Perth, from the
observation of 9 years, 23"01 inches; at Aberdeen, from the observation of 4 years, 27-37
inches ; and at Inverness, from the observation of 7 years, 26"21 inches. The average number
of days in the year on which rain or snow falls, is variously stated to be, on the east coast,
135 and about 145, and on the west coast, 200 and 205. The least humid district in the
Lowlands, is East-Lothian ; and the most humid, Ayrshire. Thick fogs, and small drizzly
x&iv
INTRODUCTION.
rains, visit the whole country, chiefly in spring and autumn, and during the prevalence of east-
erly winds ; and, in many localities, the fogs lie along a champaign country like seas of fleecy
vapour, with the hills and loftier uplands appearing like islands on their bosom. Snow, ex-
cept in the milder districts of the Lowlands, generally begins to fall about the middle of
November, and seldom ceases its periodical visits till March or April.
The winds are to a high degree variable, both in force and direction; and, in the High-
lands and Southern Highlands, produce not a few curious phenomena in connexion with the
peculiar configuration of localities. They often rise to gale and storm, and in some places
even to tempest; and about the period of the equinoxes, are more violent than in England.
Those from the west are in autumn and the early part of winter, the most prevalent, and, in
general, they are the highest; and those from the north-east prevail from the beginning
of March till May or June, and are often keen and severe. At St. Andrews, the winds are
westerly, except in the spring and early summer months, when those which are easterly pre-
vail; at Perth, during 9 years ending with 1833, the winds were from the west and norths
west, on 1,197 days, from the east and south-east, on 996, from the south and south-west, on
957, and from the north and north-east, on 137 ; and at Inverness, as the result of 13,800
observations, made during 21 years preceding 1825, the proportions of the winds in parts
of 1,000, were westerly and south-westerly, 478, easterly and north-easterly, 237, northerly
and north-westerly, 205, and southerly and south-easterly, 80. These instances, however, in-
dicate in but a general way the comparative prevalence of the different winds throughout
Scotland, and afford no index whatever to it in peculiar localities.
On the whole, the climate of Scotland, as compared with that of England, is cold, wet, and
cloudy, occasions lateness in harvest to the average amount of at least three weeks, and pre^
vents the remunerative cultivation of hops, and several other valuable vegetables. Yet, over
by far the greater part of the area of the country, it is to the full as healthy. Mr. Malthus
says, — " We are pretty confident, from extensive observation in different countries, that the
proportion of the population that reaches 70 or 80 years of age, and the vigour then remain-
ing, are greater in Scotland than almost anywhere else.''
AGRICULTURE.
The agriculture of Scotland, in common with that of England, continued till the latter part
of last century in a very rude condition. Jethro Tull, the inventor of the drill husbandry,
rose among the farmers of his clay like a preceptor among children. He pursued agricultural
improvement with the fervour of a passion, lavished upon it toil and wealth and genius, and
effected greater achievements for it than any other man who ever trode the British soil. Yet
he encountered a hurricane of derision from his contemporaries, and sank unhonoured and
heart-crushed into the grave ; and though an Englishman, he began to acquire even posthu-
mous reputation through the instrumentality of a Scotchman. He extended his experiments
through many years, published the first portion of his principal work, the " Horse-Hoeing
Husbandry," in 1731, and died in 1740. His system was first brought into notice in 1762,
by Mr. Dawson, a tenant-farmer, at Frogden in Roxburghshire; and even then it had to
fight its way to fortune. " When Mr. Dawson first settled at Frogden,'' says the Agricultural
Report of Northumberland, " the whole of that district was under the most wretched system
of management, and the farmers unacquainted with the value of turnips, artificial grasses, or
lime. At first his practice met with many opponents, and was ridiculed by the old, the
ignorant, and the prejudiced; but his superior crops and profits soon made converts, the
practice in a few years became general, and this district is now amongst the best cultivated in
the kingdom, the land treble in value, and the aspect of the country greatly improved."
The progress of agricultural improvement, thus powerfully impelled by the establishment of
the drill husbandry, was afterwards grandly accelerated by the proceedings of the Highland and
Agricultural Society, founded in 1784, and by those of the Board of Agriculture, with the
celebrated Sir John Sinclair as its first president, formed in 1794; and from that time till the
present, throughout all the best districts of the Scottish Lowlands, it has been so rapid and
manifold as to make the unpractised head giddy to contemplate it, but happily is so well
known to all classes of persons most interested in it that it does not need to be described,
Some of its most striking features, in nearly the order of their development, have been the
improving of the breeds of sheep and cattle, the field-culture of the potato, the routine use of
turnips in the feeding of live stock, the general practice of liming, the establishment of regular
INTRODUCTION.
green and white crop rotations, the introduction of Swedish turnips and of spring and sum-
mer wheats, the invention of new agricultural implements and the improvement of old ones,
the enclosing of commons and wastes, the reclaiming of bogs and morasses, the sheltering and
economising of bleak and upland tracts with plantations, the organizing of farriery and the
adapting of it to the farm, the multiplication of agricultural societies, the establishing of
agricultural shows and agricultural schools, the introduction and ordinary use of special
manures, the practice of subsoil draining, the marrying of agriculture to chemistry, geology,
phytology, and other sciences, and the exalting of all the affairs of the farm, the commonest
and humblest as well as the most rare and lordly, to their position of true dignity as at once
the most complicated, the most scientific, the most physically useful, and the most morally
benign of all human arts. In the Highlands and Islands, however, the progress has been
very much less and exceedingly various.
The characteristics of the agriculture of Scotland as distinguished from that of the other
parts of the empire, are, in the words of M'Culloch, — " 1st, The nearly universal prevalence
of leases of a reasonable endurance, and containing regulations as to management, which,
while they do not improperly shackle the tenant, prevent the land from being exhausted pre-
viously to the termination of the lease ; 2d, The absence of tithes, and in most cases, also, of
poor-rates, and of all oppressive public burdens ; 3d, The prevention of assignment and sub-
letting by tenants and the descent of the lease to the heir-at-law ; and 4th, The general
introduction of thrashing-machines, and the universal use of the two-horse plough and one-
horse cart." These characteristics, however, have full place only in the Lowlands. Charac-
teristics more or less different, in many cases widely so, exist in the Highlands and Islands.
A barbarous system of mixed husbandry, with " infield " and " outfield," prevailed there till
a very recent period, — under miserable circumstances, and with most pitiable appliances ; and
this, though improved in some instances and revolutionized in others, has very extensively,
in the most upland regions, been displaced altogether by a system of mere sheep farming,
which has turned thousands of the human population adrift, and converted many a peopled
glen into an utter solitude.
The soils of Scotland, as might be expected from the peculiarities of its surface and geology,
are often very various in even a single field, and much more in extensive districts. Yet they
have, in many instances of both the excellent and the inferior, long and broad expanses of
uniformity; and, while in aggregate character poorer than those of England, they vie in their
rich tracts with the wealthiest in the three kingdoms, and have prompted and tutored, over
their penurious tracts, a keenness of georgic skill, and a sturdiness in the arts of husbandry,
which have made Scottish farmers the boast of Europe. The carses of Stirling, Ealkirk, and
Gowrie, most of the three Lothians, the Merse, Clydesdale, and Strathearn, large portions of
Fifeshire, Strathmore, Annandale, Nithsdale, Kyle, Cunningham, and the low grounds along
the Moray and the Cromarty friths, and even some straths and very numerous haughs in the
mountainous districts, are highly productive, and can bear comparison with the best tracts of
land in England. According to Sir John Sinclair's digest of the productive soils, or of those
on lands fully or partially cultivated, the loams amount to 1,869,193 English acres, the rich
clays to 987,070, the gravelly soils to 681,862, the cold or inferior clays to 510,265, the im-
proved mossy soils to 411,096, the alluvial haugh or carse land to 320,193, and the sandy
soils to 263,771, — in all, as we stated at the outset, 5,043,450 English acres.
The distribution of land, the kinds, quantities, and produce of aration crops, the amount of
the several kinds of live stock, and the extent of bare fallows, sheep pastures, home-stead
occupancies, woods, and wastes, have been the subject of many conjectural estimates and
conflicting statements, — all defective and unsatisfactory; but at length, in 1853, by special
exertions of the Highland and Agricultural Society, under sanction of the Government, they
were closely ascertained in three counties, and have subsequently been extended all over the
kingdom. The general results are given at the close of this Introduction (see page Ixv).
The following summary of the average results for 1855 and 1856 may however exhibit them
in a fresher point of view to our readers. Of the entire surface of the soil of Scotland 23,697
per cent, is cultivated, and 76,321 uncultivated, barren, in pasture, or in bogs, lochs, rivers,
ponds, roads, and habitations. Of the entire cultivated surface, 64,545 per cent, is under a
rotation of crops, and in occupancy at a rent over £20 in eight counties, and over £10 in all
the others, and 35,454 per cent, either in holdings under these values, or in orchards, private
and nursery gardens, plantations, pleasure grounds, &c. Of the former, the following is the
approximate average distribution for 1855 and 1856:
INTEODUCTION.
per cent.
In Grass and Hay under") .„ KQ„
rotation, . . j-«*oab
Oats, . . . 26-3904
Turnips, . . 12-989
per cent
Wheat, 6-696
Barley, 4-954
Potatoes, 4-249
per cent.
Beans, Pease, and Vetches, 1-738
Mangold Wurzel, & Rape, >
Flax and Turnip Seed, j 02b
Summer Fallow, . 056
81-9754 15-899
Besides carrots, cabbage, and other vegetables, grains, or roots.
Total.
81-9754
15-899
1-820
1-820 99-6944
MANUFACTURES.
For a number of years past, the condition of the cotton, woollen, flax, and silk factories of
Scotland has been the subject of regular half-yearly reports by a government inspector; so
that any person who desires to have an intimate view of their extent, progress, fluctuation,
and economy may obtain it by examining a series of those reports. We can afford to note
only the most important general facts, and to note even these in only the briefest terms.
In 1835, the total number of factories was 425, with 17,721 power-looms ; in 1838, it was
492, with 9,734 horse-power in steam, and 5,421 in water ; in 1850, it was 550, with 13,857
horse-power in steam, and 6,004 horse-power in water; and in 1856, it was 530, with 19,699
horse-power. In 1838, there were 192 cotton factories, with 8,340 horse-power, and 35,576
workers, — 112 woollen factories, with 1,823 horse-power, and 5,076 workers, — 183 flax
factories, with 4,845^ horse-power, and 17,897 workers, — and 5 silk factories, with 148 horse-
power, and 763 workers. In 1850, there were 168 cotton factories, with 1,683,093 spindles,
23,564 power-looms, and 36,325 workers, — 182 woollen factories, with 224,129 spindles,
247 power-looms, and 9,464 workers, — 188 flax factories, with 303,125 spindles, 2,529
power-looms, and 28,312 workers, — and 5 silk factories, with 36,652 spindles, and 841
workers. In 1856, there were 152 cotton factories, with 9,971 horse-power, 21,624 power-
looms, and 34,698 workers, — 204 woollen factories, with 3,260 horse-power, 800 power-
looms, and 10,175 workers, — 168 flax factories, with 6,346 horse-power, 4,011 power-
looms, and 31,722 workers, — and 6 silk factories, with 122 horse-power, and 837 workers.
No similar statistics have been obtained since 1856.
Of the 192 cotton factories which were in operation in 1838, 107 with 4,146 horse-power
were in Lanarkshire, 58 with 1,921 in Eenfrewshire, 7 with 554 in Perthshire, 4 with 617
in Aberdeenshire, 4 with 338 in Ayrshire, 4 with 417 in Dumbartonshire, 3 with 130 in
Stirlingshire, 2 with 70 in Buteshire, 1 with 58 in Dumfries-shire, 1 with 55 in Kirkcud-
brightshire, and 1 with 34 in Linlithgowshire. Of the 112 woollen factories, 24 with 285
horse-power were in Clackmannanshire, 18 with 249-| in Ayrshire, 17 with 310 in Boxburgh-
shire, 15 with 199 in Selkirkshire, 7 with 292 in Aberdeenshire, 7 with 99 in Perthshire, 7
with 115 in Stirlingshire, 3 with 60 in Dumfries-shire, 3 with 101 in Lanarkshire, 2 with 24
in Kirkcudbrightshire, 2 with 26 in Eenfrewshire, 1 with 16 in Berwickshire, 1 with 6 in
Edinburghshire, 1 with 91 in Fifeshire, 1 with 7 in Forfarshire, 1 with 4 in Kincardineshire,
1 with 8 in Linlithgowshire, and 1 with 12 in Wigtonshire. Of the 183 flax factories, 96
with 2,376 horse-power were in Forfarshire, 46 with 989 in Fifeshire, 13 with 238 in Perth-
shire, 8 with 60j? in Kincardineshire, 7 with 244 in Edinburghshire, 4 with 628 in Aberdeen-
shire, 3 with 46 in Ayrshire, 3 with 192 in Eenfrewshire, 2 with 40 in Lanarkshire, and 1
with 32 in Linlithgowshire. And of the 5 silk factories, 3 with 106 horse-power were in
Lanarkshire, 1 with 30 in Eenfrewshire, and 1 with 12 in Edinburghshire.
An important act of parliament was passed in 1833, regulating labour in factories, and
enforcing care for the education of children-workers. The last report on Scotland
for 1853 says on the latter subject, — " The factories in which children have hitherto
been employed reckon among their number some of the most important works in Scotland ;
and the owners of such factories, so far from considering their schools a trouble, take the
greatest pride and pleasure in showing them ; for while they profit by the labours of the
children, they do not forget that they have a duty to perform in return, not by carrying out
the requirements of the act as if it were intended to be a mere matter of form, but by appoint-
ing efficient teachers, furnishing them with the means of imparting the instruction so necessary
to the welfare of the children in after-life, and by taking care that it is done. Such is the
character of most of the factory schools maintained in the larger class of works in which
children have hitherto been employed in Scotland; and in most of them the adults have the
INTRODUCTION.
choice of participating. In small works, the same means, of course, are wanting ; but there
are few even of them in which the provision for the instruction of the children may not be
considered satisfactory." The following table gives a classified view of the factory-workers,
as to age and sex, at four periods : —
Number of Children.
1835,
1838,
1847,
1850,
Males.
2,821
918
585
378
Females.
3,961
944
779
742
No. of Males. No. of Females
between 13 & 18. above 13.
4,083
7,348
6,398
6,982
30,401
39,920
45,998
53,806
No. of Males
above 18.
8,914
10,182
13,483
14,780
Total.
Moles.
15,818
18,448
20,466
22,140
Females.
34,362
40,864
46,777
53,548
Males & Females.
49,180
59,312
67,243
75,688
Hand-loom weaving — which deeply affects by far the largest class of the population inter-
ested in manufactures — was made the subject of commission inquiry in 1838, and of reports
returned to the House of Commons in February, 1839. The inquiry was made in two terri-
torial divisions ; one over all Scotland south of the Forth and Clyde, including Kilsyth and
Campsie on the further side of the connecting canal ; the other, over what the report calls
the east of Scotland, but over, in point of fact, very nearly every site of a loom not included
in the former division. The following table indicates, as exhibited in the report, the number
of separate trades or fabrics in the country south of the Forth and Clyde, the locality of each
fabric, the number of looms employed in each, and the average rate of nett wages earned in
each department, and distributed into two classes, — the first being the average nett amount
earned, by adult skilled artisans, on the finer qualities of the fabric, — the second being the aver-
age nett amount earned by the less skilled and younger artisans, on the coarser qualities of
the fabric.
Date
Residence
Number
Clear Weekly Wages.
Districts where woven.
of
looms.
Introduction.
manufacturers.
1st Class.
2d Class.
Pullicates, ginghams,
Lanarkshire, especially in Airdrie,
stripes, checks, &c,
Lanark, and Glasgow; also at
Girvan and other places on the
west coast.
1786.
Glasgow.
18,020
7s. Od.
4s. 6d.
Shawls, zebras, &c,
Paisley, Glasgow, &c.
1802 to
1806.
Paisley, Glas-
gow and Ed-
inburgh.
7,750
10s. 6d.
6s. Od.
Plain muslins,
Lanarkshire, Glasgow, Irvine,
Hamilton, Eaglesham, &c.
1784.
Glasgow.
10,080
7s. 6d.
4s. 6d.
| Fancy muslins, silk
Silk gauzes
Paisley and
gauzes, &c,
Renfrewshire and Lanarkshire.
in 1760.
Glasgow7.
7,860
9s. 6d.
6s. Od.
Thibets and tartans,
Thibets in Lanarkshire ; a few tar-
tans in Dalmellington, Straiton,
Thibets in
Glasgow and
Sanquhar, and Hawick.
Dumfries-shire.
1824.
Hawick.
2,980
7s. Od.
5s. 6d.
Carlisle ginghams,
Carlisle.
1,575
7s. 6d.
4s. 6d.
Woollens,
South-east of Scotland, Galashiels,
Hawick, Jedburgh, &c.
Galashiels,
Hawick, and
Jedburgh.
950
16s. 6d.
lis. Od.
Carpets,
Kilmarnock, Glasgow, and Lass-
wade.
Kilmarnock,
Glasgow, and
Lasswade.
865
18s. Od.
lis. Od.
Sailcloths, coarse lin-
Port-Glasgow, Leith, and Mussel-
Port - Glasgow,
ens, and haircloth,
burgh
Leith, and
Musselburgh.
Total,...
580
13s. Od.
10s. Od.
51,060
The report on the country north of the Forth, the Clyde, and the connecting canal, dis-
tributes the fabrics generally into woollen, linen, and cotton. The weavers were employed
on carpets in factories, and on hard and soft tartans, and tartan shawls, in their own cottages;
and " were in a condition similar to that of the other labouring classes in the country." The
manufacture of tartans was seated chiefly at Stirling and its vicinity, and at Aberdeen, em-
ployed probably 2,500 looms, and might be considered as very prosperous, and likely to im-
prove. The linen manufacture employed about 26,000 looms ; and might be distributed into
harness work, heavy work, and ordinary work. The harness work, as damask table-cloths, table-
covers, and napkins, was carried on almost exclusively in and near Dunfermline; had doubled
the number of its looms since 1826 ; employed in 1838 about 3,000; exported nearly half of its
XXV11I
INTRODUCTION.
produce to the United States ; and yielded average weekly wages of about 8s. 6d. The heavy
work, as sail-cloth, broad-sheetings, floor-cloth, and some kinds of bagging, was seated princi-
pally in Dundee, Arbroath, Aberdeen, Montrose, and Kirkcaldy ; employed about 4,000
looms, — all in factories ; and yielded weekly wages, in not rare cases, of 15s., and of not less
than 8s. 6d. average. The ordinary work, as dowlas, common sheetings, and osnaburghs,
might be considered as the staple linen manufacture of Scotland ; was seated principally in For-
farshire ; employed from 17,000 looms in summer, to 22,000 or 23,000 in winter, — nearly all
in small detached buildings adjacent to the weavers' cottages ; and yielded average weekly
wages of from 6s. to 7s. 6d. to the first class, and from 4s. to 5s. 6d. to the second. The
cotton manufacture employed about 5,000 looms ; and, next to Perth, which was its principal
seat, was carried on chiefly at Dunblane, Auchterarder, Balfron, and Kinross. The weavers,
except at Perth, and in a few instances at Kirkcaldy and Aberdeen, were employed wholly
by Glasgow manufacturers ; and at Kinross, Dunblane, and Auchterarder earned not more
than 4s. of average weekly wages.
Printfields and bleachfields have not figured so largely in public statistics as could be
wished. One reason of this may be that they are rather an appendage of manufacture than a
department of it, — belonging quite as much to mere art as to productive industry ; and an-
other may be that they have been very fluctuating, partly from the influence of taste, partly
from the progress of chemistry, and partly on account of their restriction, in place or season,
to large continuous supplies of pure water. Still, being essential to the prosperity of the
great manufactures with which they are connected, they have been largely though variously
maintained by modern Scottish enterprize. In 1846, there were 74 of them in S6otland.
They are situated in the counties of Dumbarton, Eenfrew, Lanark, Ayr, Stirling, Perth, and
Linlithgow ; and those in the parishes of Bonhill and Neilston, the former in the vale of the
Leven, the latter in that of the Levern, may be taken as a fair specimen of the whole.
The paper-manufacture of Scotland is considerable, and is distributed through the excise
collections of Aberdeen, Ayr, Dumfries, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Haddington, Linlithgow,
Montrose, and Stirling. The number of paper mills in 1842 was 48 ; in 1848, 49 ; in 1854,
51 ; in 1860, 52. The quantity of paper made in 1842 was 17,065,666 lbs. ; in 1848,
24,800,705 lbs. ; in 1854, 36,857,719 lbs. ; in 1860, 47,520,910 lbs. The quantity made
in England and Wales, in 1860, was 166,739,390 lbs. ; in Ireland, 9,314,985 lbs.
The mineral trade is great. The output of coals, in 1854, was 7,448,000 tons, from 368
collieries; in 1857, 8,211,473 tons, from 425 collieries ; in 1864, 12,700,000 tons, from 490
collieries. The output of iron ore, chiefly in Lanarkshire, Ayrshire, and the south-west of
Fifeshire, was 2,500,000 tons in 1857, and 2,225,000 in 1859; and the produce in pig iron
was 918,000 tons in 1857, and 960,550 in 1859. The demand for iron sank increasingly
below the produce from 1857 till 1865, but rose to it in 1866. The output of lead ore, from
mines in Lanarkshire, Dumfries-shire, Kirkcudbrightshire, Argyleshire, and Perthshire, was
1,931 tons in 1856, and 1,946 in 1859 ; the produce in metallic lead was 1,416 tons in
1856, and 1,347 in 1859 ; and the produce in silver, extracted from the lead ore, was 5,232
ounces in 1856, and 4,022 in 1859. Cast iron goods are largely produced at the Carron
works, at places in Lanarkshire, and at some other places.
The soap-trade, though employing no great multitude of hands, possesses interest for the
connection of its statistics with general economy. The number of licensed soap-makers in
Scotland in 1850 was 25,— in 1860, 26. The number of pounds weight of silicated soap
made in 1850 was 36,390,— in 1851, 7,150 ; of other hard soap, in 1850, 16,038,905,— in
1851, 15,206,064 ; of soft soap, in 1850, 6,847,577,— in 1851, 7,150,119. The manufac-
ture of the silicated soap was confined to Glasgow ; and that of the other soaps was distri-
buted among Glasgow, Greenock, Paisley, Leith, Prestonpans, Linlithgow, Dunfermline,
Aberdeen, and Ayr.
A considerable glass manufacture is carried on at Glasgow, Alloa, Leith, and Portobello.
A considerable manufacture of earthenware is carried on at Glasgow and Greenock. Lea-
ther-making, together with shoe-making, saddlery -work, and glove-making, are of consider-
able extent, and considerably diffused. — Sugar-refining is largely carried on at Glasgow,
Greenock, and Leith.— Animal charcoal, consisting of calcined bovine bones, is manufactured
for the uses of the sugar-refiner, and also for saturating iron bars with carbon to make blis-
tered steel. — Agricultural implements, machinery, hats, jewellery, and all the articles of ordi-
nary-artificership, are prominent. — Ship-building is more or less important at many of the
greater ports, and even at some of the smaller ones, and is very conspicuous on the Clyde.
INTEODUCTION.
XXIX
The extent of the tobacco and snuff manufacture of Scotland is indicated by the quantity
of tobacco entered at the Scottish ports for home consumption. This in 1852 was 3,575
pounds weight manufactured, and 2,233,439 pounds weight unmanufactured ; and the gross
amount of duty on it was ,£353,360. More than half of the whole quantity was imported
at Glasgow ; and the next quantities, named in decreasing order, were at Leith, Montrose,
Aberdeen, Arbroath, Dundee, Wick, and Banff. The number of licensed manufacturers of
tobacco and snuff, in 1860, was 125; and that of licensed dealers in tobacco and snuff,
17,720.
The number of quarters of malt made in Scotland in 1850 was 571,635 ; in 1851, 531,935;
in 1853, 530,593; in 1860, 672,941. The number of quarters used by brewers and victual-
lers in Scotland in 1851 was 133,590 ; in 1853, 165,955 ; in 1864, 245,775. The number
of licensed brewers in Scotland in 1851 was 146; in 1864, 118. The number of licensed
victuallers in Scotland in 1851 was 14,752; in 1864, 12,138. The number of maltsters in
Scotland in 1851 was 919; in 1860, 478. The number of distillers of spirits in Scotland
in 1815 was 27; in 1825, 329; in 1836, 222; in 1846, 175; in 1864, 115. The number
of rectifiers of spirits in Scotland in 1815 was 2; in 1825, 7; in 1836 and 1860, 9. The
number of gallons of spirits distilled lawfully in Scotland in 1708 was 50,844, — and in
1791, 1,696,000. The number in 1802—1815, when the duty fluctuated between 3s. lO^d.
and 8s. 0£d. per gallon, varied from 1,344,835 to 3,589,435. The number in 1816, when
the duty stood at 9s. 4±d. was, 2,145,366. The number in 1817—1823, when the duty
stood at 6s. 2d., varied from 3,062,820 to 3,547,199. The number in 1824—1826, when the
duty stood at 2s. 4|d., rose from 5,908,373 to S,563,994. The number in 1827—1830, when
the duty stood at 2s. 10d., varied from 7,243,819 to 10,117,097. The number in 1831—
1839, when the duty stood at 3s. 4d., varied from 7,979,088 to 10,222,650. The number
in 1840—1852, when the duty stood at 3s. 8d., varied from 7,650,272 to 11,638,429. The
number in 1853, when the duty was 3s. 8d. and 4s. 8d., was 10,359,926. The number in
1854, when the duty was 4s. 8d., 5s. 8d., and 6s., was 9,862,318. The number in 1855,
when the duty was 6s., 7s. 10d., and 8s., was 11,283,636. The number in 1856 and 1859,
when the duty stood at 8s., was 12,001,098 and 13,190,865. And the number, in 1864,
when the duty had been 4 years at 10s., was 14,869,564. Of the 10,359,926 gallons dis-
tilled in 1853, 5,330,714 were from malt only, 4,113,581 from malt mixed with unmalted
grain, and 915,631 from sugar or molasses mixed with unmalted grain. The number of
gallons exported to foreign parts, in 1851, was 194,073 ; in 1854, 366,625 ; in 1857,
2,061,579; in 1864, 3,581,037. In 1852, 2,267,419 gallons were exported from Scot-
land to England, 1,008,857 were exported from Scotland to Ireland, and 25,598 were
imported from Ireland into Scotland. The number of gallons exported into England
and Ireland in 1864 was 4,682,732 ; and the number of gallons of home-made spirits
imported thence into Scotland, in the same year, was 51,929. Illicit distillation had be-
come so prevalent in Scotland, in 1820, when the duty stood at 6s. 2d., that it is supposed
to have supplied more than one-half of the spirits actually consumed ; but by the reduction
of the duty to 2s. 4Jd., and by the establishing of new regulations for giving additional secu-
rity to the revenue, it fell rapidly off almost to extinction ; and, notwithstanding an increase
of the duty in a few years to 3s. 4d., and afterwards by gradation to 10s., it has never re-
acquired any consequence. In 1856, when the duty stood at 8s., only 48 detections were
reported, and many of these were of a trifling character. The force employed then for keep-
ing down illicit distillation consisted of 35 officers and 71 assistants, and cost .£11,882
a-year. One cause which operates against smuggling is the strong, general, active disappro-
bation of the landlords and the large occupiers of land ; and another is a prevailing taste,
among consumers, for a better flavour and quality of spirits than the smuggler usually
supplies.
COMMERCE.
Scotland's exports consist principally of machinery, hardware, iron, coals, herrings, and the
produce of her textile manufactures; and her imports consist principally of the raw materials
for her cotton and linen fabrics, and of articles of colonial and foreign produce, which are
demanded by the growing taste and luxuriousness of her population. To enumerate sub-
ordinate articles, or those included in this general classification, would be to write a list of
goods as long, tasteless, and tiresome, as that of a vender of all wares. Till about the year
INTRODUCTION.
1755, when the exports amounted in value to £535,576, and the imports to £465,411, Scot-
land's commerce was almost as unknowing of foreign lands as her own hardy mountaineers,
and as cold and cheerless as their climate and their dress. But from that period, and especially
from a decade before the close of last century, it has progressively, though not uniformly, moved
on to importance. The following is an account of the official and declared value of the im-
ports into and the exports from the Scottish ports, from 1824 to the latest period at which
the accounts are made up separately from those of the ports of England and Ireland : —
Official Value of Exports.
Imports
British and Irish
Foreign
Declared
Tears.
into
Produce and
and Colonial
Total.
Value of
Scotland.
Manufactures.
Merchandise.
Exports.
1824
£3,145,958
£5,009,324
£159,896
£5,169,220
£2,670,134
1825
3,719,366
4,937,746
109,811
5,047,557
2,721,186
1826
3,086,679
4,283,074
147,270
4,430,344
2,167,459
1827
3,948,205
5,932,850
126,745
6,059,595
2,745,965
1828
4,023,642
6,148,444
185,138
6,333,632
2,897,525
1829
3,888,994
6,528,587
127,530
6,656,117
2,787,935
1830
3,908,714
6,984,392
125,941
7,110,333
2,843,143
1831
4,187,087
7,943,612
111,086
8,054,698
3,189,318
1832
4,451,351
7,120,595
155,615
7,276,210
2,640,751
1833
4,638,652
6,820,381
130,721
7,051,102
2,636,840
1834
4,683,985
7,159,102
117,564
7,276,666
2,647,212
1835
4,659,151
8,372,598
156,735
8,529,333
3,272,250
1836
6,053,611
8,258,673
131,572
8,390,245
3,265,995
1837
5,130,371
7,250,554
134,332
7,384,886
2,724,476
1838
5,878,612
10,012,599
134,790
10,147,389
3,469,051
1839
4,933,611
11,216,504
105,376
11,321,800
3,961,692
1840
6,614,446
12,956,241
127,440
13,083,684
4,394,374
1841
6,476,670
12,240,523
132,451
12,372,974
4,124,957
1842
5,268,114
11,910,328
88,446
11,998,774
3,731,578
1843
7,043,691
13,712,735
91,479.
13,804,214
4,073,626
1844
7,003,773
14,249,975
84,329
14,334,304
4,253,944
1845
8,264,806
14,751,366
105,927
14,857,293
4,320,275
1846
6,563,277
14,183,634
90,812
14,274,446
4,462,634
1847
7,367,465
12,723,097
144,419
12,867,516
4,151,695
1848
7,991,493
12,186,206
74,355
12,260,561
3,349,548
1849
9,508,064
13,721,492
192,127
13,913,619
4,027,626
1850
8,956,715
17,689,656
227,696
17,917,352
5,129,732
1851
8,921,108
17,478,695
393,174
17,871,869
5,016,116
The amount of customs from Scotland was, in 1836, £1,129,802 ; in 1844, £1,915,990 ;
in 1850, £1,949,030 ; in 1855, £2,042,396 ; in 1860, £2,453,045 ; in 1864, £2,826,827.
The head-ports, in 1864, named in the order of the magnitude of their customs, were Green-
ock, Glasgow, Leith, Port-Glasgow, Aberdeen, Dundee, Kirkcaldy, Perth, Arbroath,
Grangemouth, Montrose, Troon, Alloa, Dumfries, Inverness, Banff, Ayr, Peterhead, Wick,
Campbelton, Ardrossan, Borrowstownness, Stranraer, Lerwick, Kirkwall, Wigton, and Storno-
way. But Granton also, in 1866, from being a sub-port, was made ahead port.
FISHERIES.
The salmon fisheries of Scotland have long been extensive and famous, both yielding a
large supply of prime fish for home consumption, and affording a considerable quantity for
exportation to England ; but they have materially declined during the last thirty years, and
probably are now worth something less on the average than £150,000 a-year. The haddock
fisheries, along the east coast, for the supply of fish both in a fresh state and in a half-cured
state, have of late years become important, and may be regarded as inexhaustible. Whitings,
skates, flounders, rock cod, and cuddies also are abundant. Turbot occur in the frith of
Clyde and in the Moray frith. The lythe is extensively fished on the west coast. Soles,
mullets, and garnets are scarce. Crabs are common ; cockles abundant ; lobsters not infre-
quent ; shrimps and prawns rare ; oysters very plentiful in small limited beds, but elsewhere
not to be found. Several kinds of fish form no small part of the staff of life to the inhabi-
tants of many parts of Shetland, Orkney, and the Hebrides. But by far the most important
of the Scottish fisheries, both for market value, and for diffused connexion with general
economy, are those of herrings, cod, and ling.
INTRODUCTION.
" Two centuries ago," said the Messrs. Anderson of Inverness in 1850, " the Dutch were
in the habit of sending as many as 1,500 and even 2,000 busses of 30 tons each, to prosecute
the herring fishery off the coast of Shetland, besides several hundred doggers of about 60
tons burden to fish for cod and ling. For the latter, also, they carried on an extensive barter
with the Shetland fishers. Towards the end of the 17th century, the Dutch herring busses,
from wars with this country, and other causes, had decreased to 500 or 600, and they con-
tinued to diminish still farther during the 18th century, and have now almost disappeared
from our coasts. Yet seventy years ago, they had 200 busses employed on the Shetland
fishings ; and the Danes, Prussians, French and Flemings, as many more ; while the English
had only two vessels and the Scotch but one. Public societies for the encouragement of the
British fisheries have been formed at various times in this country, since the reign of Queen
Elizabeth, previous to the society now established ; but they were short lived, and their suc-
cess was very partial. No attention was bestowed on the herring fishery till the year 1750,
when a company was incorporated; which, however, eventually broke up, with a loss of
£500,000 sterling. The present British Fishery Society was established in 1780. Parlia-
ment has frequently granted bounties for the encouragement of the fisheries; but as, till of
late, these were paid on the tonnage, and not on the quantity of fish taken, vessels went out
rather to catch the bounty than any thing else. For some years back, bounties for fishing
herring have been found quite unnecessary, and are now discontinued. Several fishing vil-
lages, as Tobermory, Ullapool, and Pulteney-Town, near Wick, owe their origin to the Bri-
tish Fishery Society." We may add, that, for the last quarter of a century, a large public
grant has been annually made for building and repairing quays and piers connected with the
Scottish fisheries.
The herring fishery in Scotland and the Isle of Man, during 1864, yielded less than an
average catch. The quantity cured in the years 1860, 1861, 1862, 1863 and 1864 was
681,193,— 668,828,— 830,904,— 654,816,— and 643,650 barrels; the quantity branded,
231,913,— 265,347,— 346,712,— 276,880,— and 217,392 barrels; the quantity exported,
377,970,— 390,313,— 494,910,— 407,761,— and 364,507 barrels. A fee upon the brand was
introduced in 1856, and was expected to cause a considerable decrease in the number of
barrels branded, but did not prove to have that effect. The amount estimated to accrue
from the fee at the time of its been imposed, was £3,280 ; and the amount actually received
from it in 1864 was £3,628, — and in the years 1859 — 1864 an average of £4,163 a-year.
The export of herrings hitherto has been chiefly to Prussia and the Baltic, but promises now
to be greatly extended. The cod, ling, and skate fishery in Scotland and the Isle of Man
during 1864 yielded 3,370,974 fish ; which was less by 420,287 than in 1863. The quantity
cured dried was 107,758 cwts., or 21,967 less than in 1863; cured in pickle, 7,963 barrels,
or 626 more than in 1863; and exported, of cured dried, 46,461 cwts., or 6,275 less
than in 1863. The number of boats employed in the fisheries, in 1864, was 13,331 ; the
number of fishermen and boys, 43,484; the number of fish-curers, 1,026; the number of
coopers, 1,816 ; the number of other persons, about 44,426 ; the value of the boats, £328,136 ;
the value of the nets, £472,566 ; the value of the lines, £74,953. The fisheries are distri-
buted into the districts of Glasgow, Greenock, Rothesay, Ballantrae, Inverary, Loch Carron
and Skye, Loch Broom, Stornoway, Shetland, Orkney, Wick, Lybster, Helmsdale, Cromarty,
Findhorn, Buckie, Banff, Fraserburgh, Peterhead, Montrose, Anstruther, Leith, Eyemouth,
and Isle of Man. The district most productive in herrings is Wick ; and the three districts
next to it in productiveness are Stornoway, Peterhead, and Helmsdale. The district most
productive in cod and ling is Shetland ; and the three districts next to it are Orkney, Storno-
way, and Fraserburgh. The district richest in the aggregate value of boats, nets, and lines, is
Anstruther ; and the three districts next to it are Wick, Buckie, and Eyemouth. The Isle of
Man district belongs to Scotland only so far as to include the Scottish fishings in the Solway
Frith and the Irish Channel; and the items of it all, for 1864, were 34,164 barrels of her-
rings; 2,500 head of cod and ling; 628 boats; 2,550 fishermen and boys ; 79 fish-curers ;
17 coopers; and £65,178 value of boats, nets, and lines.
SHIPPING.
The shipping of Scotland, at a comparatively recent period, was inconsiderable ; and even
so late as 1656 comprised only 137 vessels, of from 250 to 300 tons each, and aggregately
5,736 tons. In 1760, the vessels employed in the foreign and coasting trade, and in fisheries,
INTBODUCTION.
were 999 in number, and 53,913 in tonnage. In 1800, the number was 2,415, carrying
171,728 tons, and employing 14,820 seamen. In 1828, the number carrying more than 100
tons each was 983 ; the number carrying less than 100 tons each was 2,160; and the aggre-
gate tonnage of both classes was 300,836. On the 31st of December, 1840, the number of
vessels belonging to Scotland was 3,479, of an aggregate tonnage of 429,204 tons, and manned
by 28,428 men. The number of vessels built in Scotland, in the year ending 5th January,
1841, was 263, of an aggregate tonnage of 42,322 tons. On the 31st December, 1850, the
vessels belonging to Scotland were 1,278 sailing vessels under 50 tons each, and aggregately
of 38,531 tons; 2,154 sailing vessels above 50 tons each, and aggregately of 452,864 tons ;
38 steam-vessels under 50 tons each, and aggregately of 1,064 tons; and 131 steam-
vessels above 50 tons each, and aggregately of 29,763 tons. The number of vessels built in
Scotland in 1851 was 136, of aggregately 30,000 tons. On the 31st December, 1864, the
vessels belonging to Scotland were 1,073 sailing vessels under 50 tons each, and aggregately
of 32,771 tons; 1,953 sailing vessels above 50 tons each, and aggregately of 575,778 tons;
106 steam-vessels under 50 tons each, and aggregately of 2,709 tons; and 295 steam-vessels
above 50 tons each, and aggregately of 112,559 tons.
BANKS.
The number of Banks of Issue in Scotland in 1838 was twenty-nine, but now is only
twelve. Eight of these, the Bank of Scotland, the Boyal, the British Linen, the Commer-
cial, the National, the Union, the Clydesdale, and the City of Glasgow, have their capital,
not in shares, but in stock transferable to any amount, and do not require to lodge lists of
partners. The date of institution, the name, the number of partners, the number of branches,
the paid-up capital, and other particulars of the several banks, as they stood in December,
1864, are as follow ; with the difference that the figure in the last column of the second,
third, and sixth denotes ex-dividend : — ■
Dividend.
Insti-
tuted.
1695
1727
174G
1810
1825
1830
1825
1836
1838
1839
1838
1834
Name.
Part-
ners.
Branches.
Bank of Scotland, 60
Eoyal Bank, 74
British Linen Company, 798 52
Commercial Bank, 805 76
National Bank of Scotland, 1,455 72
Union Bank of Scotland, 1,060 103
Aber. Town & County Bank, 529 31
North of Scot. Banking Co., 1,249 34
Clydesdale Banking Co., 1,302 60
City of Glasgow Bank, 1,000 94
Caledonian Banking Co., 725 16
Central Bank of Scotland, 421 9
Paid up
capital.
£1,000,000
2,000,000
1,000,000
1,000,000
1,000,000
1,000,000
156,000
280,000
900,000
870,000
125,000
100,000
Payable.
Share
Paid.
Price.
10 April and Oct. £100 £218 0 0
7J Jan. and July 100 153 15 0
11 June and Dec. 100 230 10 0
11 Jan. and July 100 236 0 0
10 & 1 Jan. and July 100 220 0 0
8 June and Dec. 100 186 0 0
10 March and Sep. 6 13 10 0
10 May and Nov. 3£ 8 5 0
9 Feb. and Aug. 100 208 0 0
7 Feb. and Aug. 100 142 10 0
10 August 21 5 2 6
12 i September 40
The following table shows the amount of bank notes which the several banks are authorized
by law to issue, and the average amount of their bank notes in circulation, and of coin held
by them, during thirteen periods of four weeks, from December 12th, 1863, to November
12th, 1864, and from December 10th. 1864, to November 11th, 1865, as published in the
Gazette.
Bank of Scotland,
Eoyal Bank,
British Linen Company,
Commercial Bank of Scotland,
National Bank of Scotland,
Union Bank of Scotland,
Aberdeen Town & County Bank
Nortli of Scotland Banking Co.,
Clydesdale Banking Company,
City of Glasgow Bank,
Caledonian Banking Company,
Central Bank of Scotland,
Authorized
Circulation.
300,485
183,000
438,024
374,880
297,024
454,346
, 70,133
154,319
274,321
72,921
53,434
42,933
Average
Circulation,
1863-4.
Coin.
1863-4.
Average
Circulation
1S64-5.
472,148
262,600
493,074
502,974
372,228
534,717
491,703
238,915
489,625
537,840
278,324
555,227
454,375
260,868
472,094
592,519
244,927
582,421
135,446
75,022
145,350
205,373
84,162
217,914
368,850
152,465
373,026
357,581
325,311
364,249
72,169
33,718
74,112
59,450
30,544
61,443
Coin.
1S64-5.
286,174
397,555
251,185
286,973
259,500
235.745
87,218
88,228
151,395
330,360
33,300
29,949
INTRODUCTION.
The actual circulation of the banks on the first Saturday of 1856 and 1865, was as fol-
lows,—the Bank of Scotland in 1856, £418,533,— in 1865, £482,534; the Royal Bank in
1856, £254,080, — in 1865, £539,647; the British Linen Company in 1856, £514,554, — in
1865, £499,786; the Commercial Bank in 1856, £526,944,— in 1865, £550,598; the Na-
tional Bank in 1856, £359,177,— in 1865, £455,652 ; the Union Bank in 1856, £538,706,
—in 1865, £583,313; the Aberdeen Bank in 1856, £123,079,— in 1865, £135,441; the
North of Scotland Bank in 1856, £203,358,— in 1865, £203,689 ; the Clydesdale Bank in
1856, £160,574,— in 1865, £355,355; the City of Glasgow Bank in 1856, £242,948,— in
1865, £365,244; the Caledonian Bank in 1856,- £73,603,— in 1865, £69,975; the Central
Bank in 1856, £61,282, — in 1865, £57,952. The aggregate circulation of bank notes in
Scotland, some time after 1856, was shared also by five other Banks which do not now exist.
These were the Perth Bank, which had a circulation of £45,515 in May 1857, when it was
incorporated with the Union ; the Western Bank, which had a circulation of £422,089 in
November 1857, when it stopped payment; the Edinburgh and Glasgow Bank, which had a
circulation of £137,104 in June 1858, when it was incorporated with the Clydesdale; the
Eastern Bank, which had a circulation of £37,440 in January 1863, when it was incorpo-
rated with the Clydesdale; and the Dundee Bank, which had a circulation of £38,616 in
February 1864, when it was incorporated with the Royal.
On the 20th November, 1864, there were in Scotland 54 savings' banks, having 58 unpaid,
and 131 paid officers. The amount of security given by the unpaid officers was £14,400, by
the paid officers £31,610. The salaries and allowances of the paid officers amounted to
;£7,6S0. The annual expenses of management, inclusive of all salaries, was £9,622. The
number of accounts remaining open was 159,319 ; the total amount owing to depositors,
£2,221,001 ; the total amount invested with the commissioners for the reduction of the
national debt, £2,819,201 ; the amount in the hands of treasurers, £26,291 ; the average
rate of interest paid to depositors, £2 19s. Id. ; the total amount of the separate surplus fund,
£1,751 ; the annual number of receipts from depositors, 297,195 ; the annual number of pay-
ments to depositors, 177,422 ; the average amount of receipts from depositors, £3 Is.; the
average amount of payment to depositors, £5 16s. 9d. An Act for depositing small sav-
ings in such post-offices as might be authorized by the Postmaster-General, was passed in
1861 ; and the number of post-office savings' banks in Scotland in January 1866 was 374.
INTERNAL COMMUNICATION.
The roads of Scotland, till about the middle of last century, were so few and bad, that
three-fourths of the whole country were inaccessible to a wheeled vehicle. The Highlands,
in particular, could be traversed only by their own chamois-moving mountaineers, and, even on
their least upland grounds, were sublimely uncognizant of both the motion and the mechanism
of a wheel ; and at enormous cost and labour — as will be found detailed in our article on the
Highlands — they were literally revolutionized in political, social, and agricultural character,
simply by their being pierced and traversed with roads, and brought into acquaintance with
the unpoetic cart. Both turnpike and subordinate roads are now ramified through most dis-
tricts to an amount so nearly co-extensive with the wants of the country, that the absence of
them in any locality is, in most instances, evidence of its being a tract of moorish or mountain
waste ; and, as Sir H. Parnell remarks, in his Treatise on Roads, " in consequence of the ex-
cellent materials which abound in all parts of Scotland, and of the greater skill and science
of Scottish trustees and surveyors, the turnpike roads in Scotland are superior to those in
England." A parliamentary paper of November 1858 shows the extent of turnpike road in
counties, but contains no return for Orkney and Shetland, and includes in Inverness-shire the
highland or military roads of Sutherlandshire, Ross-shire, Nairnshire, Morayshire, Banffshire,
Aberdeenshire, Argyleshire, and Buteshire. According to this document, the extent of road
in Aberdeenshire is 448 miles, in Ayrshire 735, in Banffshire 130, in Berwickshire 176, in
Caithness-shire 136, in Clackmannanshire 37, in Dumbartonshire 63, in Dumfries-shire 349,
in Edinburghshire 423, in Fifeshire 389, in Forfarshire 191, in Haddingtonshire, 145, in In-
verness-shire 943, in Kincardineshire 96, in Kinross-shire 52, in Kirkcudbrightshire 249, in
Lanarkshire 448, in Linlithgowshire 66, in Morayshire 89, in Nairnshire 19, in Peebles-shire
122, in Perthshire 337, in Renfrewshire 177, in Roxburghshire 195, in Selkirkshire 28, in
Stirlingshire 135, and in Wigtonshire 50. The total of turnpike roads was thus 6,233 miles ;
c
xxxiv INTRODUCTION.
and in 1858-9 it was under 243 trusts, and yielded a revenue of £204,677 from tolls and
£33,371 from other sources.
Owing to almost constant, and generally bold, inequality of surface, Scotland offers few
facilities for the construction of canals ; yet it has six of these works, two of which connect
the eastern and the western seas, while the features of the others combine interest with utility.
The Caledonian canal extends from the vicinity of Inverness on the north-east, to Corpach,
near Fort-William, on the south-west, a distance of 60^ miles, 37A of which are through
Lochs Ness, Oich, and Lochy : and communicates between the Beauly Frith and the head of
Loch-Eil. The Forth and Clyde canal extends from the Frith of Forth or mouth of the Car-
ron, at Grangemouth, to Bowling-bay on the Clyde, a distance of 35 miles ; and sends off a
small branch to Glasgow, and a smaller one to the mouth of the Cart, to communicate by that
river with Paisley. The Edinburgh and Glasgow Union Canal extends from Port-Hopetoun
at Edinburgh, to the Forth and Clyde Canal at Port-Downie, near Falkirk, a distance of 31^
miles. The Monkland Canal extends from the basin at the north-east extremity of Glasgow,
to Woodhall, about 2 miles south-east of Airdrie, a distance of 12 miles ; and communicates
at its west end by a cut of a mile in length with the basin of the Glasgow branch of the Forth
and Clyde canal. The Crinan canal lies across the northern extremity of the long peninsula
of Knapdale and Kintyre, is about 9 miles in length, and connects Loch Fyne with the
Western Ocean. The Glasgow, Paisley, and Ardrossan canal was projected to extend from
Port-Eglinton, on the south side of Glasgow, to the harbour of Ardrossan, but has been
executed only to Johnstone, a distance of 11 miles. Another canal, 18j miles in length,
went from Aberdeen harbour to Inverury, but was bought up and superseded by the Great
North of Scotland Railway Company. The cost of the seven canals was nearly .£2,500,000.
The Caledonian and the Crinan have recently been much improved, and appear to be of
permanent value ; the Forth and Clyde also is of lasting consequence as a ship communica-
tion between the eastern and the western seas ; but the others have been rendered compara-
tively worthless, and the Forth and Clyde itself has been greatly depreciated, by the forma-
tion of railways. The revenue of jointly the Caledonian and the Crinan, in the year ending
30 April 1865, was £9,107, — in the previous year, £10,476; the expenditure, in the year
ending 30 April 1865, £10,216, — in the previous year, £10,994. The interests of the Forth
and Clyde and the Monkland are now associated with those of the Caledonian railway.
The projecting of railways in 1845 rose to a mania, and concocted many schemes which could
not be put into execution. It subsequently made provision for many good lines, and went
on to spread an excellent net-work over much of the southern and central parts of the king-
dom. It rose again, in 1865, to such a height of speculation as alarmed shareholders in the
main constructed lines affected by it; and by a compromise early in 1866, some very costly
schemes then entertained were suspended or withdrawn. The aggregate of railway open at
the end of 1853, was 987 miles, — at the end of 1859, was 1,428 miles, — at the end of 1864, was
2,105 miles; and of the last, 928 miles were double, and 1,177 single. Other lines and
branches, of considerable aggregate extent, were formed in 1865; and others, as from
Stranraer to Girvan, from Muirkirk to Douglas, from Sanquhar to Lamington, from Kil-
marnock to Neilston, from Glasgow to Busby, from Butherglen to Coatbridge, from Cle-
land to Mid-Calder, from Ratho to Dunfermline, from Campsie to Gartness, from Callander
to Oban, from Crieff to Comrie, from Crieff to Methven, from Dundee to Forfar, and from
Aboyne to Braemar, were either opened or in progress in 1866. The railway system, in
1866, went northward to Bonarbridge, and promised both to go through the Great Glen to
Loch Linnhe, and to go through Caithness to the Pentland frith.
A number of the earliest executed of the Scottish railways have been either materially
superseded, greatly modified, or entirely absorbed by subsequent railways. Such are the
Paisley and Renfrew, depreciated by the Glasgow and Paisley ; the Edinburgh and Dalkeith,
mainly superseded by the North British ; the Pollock and Govan, absorbed by the Caledonian ;
the Kilmarnock and Troon, intertwined with the Glasgow and Southwestern ; and several
railways of the Lanarkshire mineral- field, variously altered and absorbed by the Caledonian,
the Edinburgh and Glasgow, and the Monkland. A number of other railways also, which
were planned or executed as separate undertakings, and which can still be described as sepa-
rate works, have been conjoined by lease, amalgamation, or working with other railways, so
as to be practically treated in the manner of branches. Thus the Glasgow and Coatbridge,
the Wishaw and Coltness, the Clydesdale Junction, the Glasgow and Neilston, the Glasgow
and Greenock, the Glasgow General Terminus and Harbour, the Rutherglen and Coatbridge,
INTRODUCTION.
the Lesmahago, the Cleland and Morningside, the Lanark and Douglas, the Wilsontown, the
Granton and Leith, the Symington and Peebles, the Dumfries and Lockerby, are included in
the Caledonian. Thus also the Edinburgh and Bathgate, the Stirling and Dunfermline, the
Wilsontown and Coltness, the Glasgow and Milngavie, and the Glasgow and Helensburgh,
are included in the Edinburgh and Glasgow ; and that again, was amalgamated, in August
1864, with the North British. Thus also the Glasgow and Ayr, the Kilmarnock and Car-
lisle, the Dalmellington, the Ayr and Girvan, the Bridge of Weir, the Muirkirk, the Castle-
Douglas and Dumfries, the Kirkcudbright, and the Portpatrick are included in the Glas-
gow and Southwestern. Thus also the Monkland and Kirkintilloch, the Ballochney, the
Slamannan, the Airdrie and Bathgate, and the Bathgate and Morningside are included in
the Monkland; and that, again, became connected, in 1865, with the North British. Thus
also the Edinburgh and Hawick, the Berwickshire, the Peebles, the Leadburn and Dol-
phinton, the Selkirk and Galashiels, the Galashiels and Peebles, the Border Union, the
Border Counties, the Devon Valley, the Kinross-shire, the West of Fife, the St. Andrews,
and the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee, are included in the North British. Thus also the
Dunblane and Callander, the Crieff Junction, the Dundee and Perth, and the Dundee and
Newtyle are included in the Scottish Central; and that, again, was amalgamated, in 1865,
with the Caledonian. Thus also the Scottish Midland, the Dundee and Arbroath, the Ar-
broath and Forfar, the Meigle and Alyth, and the Aberdeen are included in the Scottish
Northeastern. Thus also the Denburn Valley, the Aberdeen Junction, the Aberdeen and
Turriff, the Inverury and Old Meldrum, the Afford Valley, the Banff and Turriff, the Banff-
shire, the Formartine and Buchan, the Keith and Dufftown, the Morayshire, and the Strath-
spey are included in the Great North of Scotland. And thus also the Inverness and Aber-
deen Junction, the Findhorn and Inverness, the Perth and Dunkeld, the Inverness and Perth
Junction, and the Ross-shire, are included in the Highland.
The railways in operation on the 31st December 1864, were returned as the Caledonian,
with 206 miles double and 153 single; the Edinburgh and Glasgow, 115 double and 31
single; the Glasgow and Southwestern, 169 double and 81 single; the Monkland, 13 double
and 59 single; the North British, 228 double and 252 single ; the Scottish Central, 70 double
and 43 single; the Forth and Clyde, 30 single; the Leven and East of Fife, 19 single; the
Scottish Northeastern, 115 double and 28 single ; the Deeside, 32 single; the Great North
of Scotland, 5 double and 221 single ; and the Highland, 7 double and 226 single.
At the 31st December 1864, the total amounts which had been raised from shares and
loans by the principal railway companies were as follow : — Aberdeen and Turiff, £120,876 ;
Alford Valley, £111,022; Alyth, £44,000; Arbroath and Forfar, £230,350; Ayr and
Maybole, £43,000; Banff and Turriff, £76,875; Banffshire, £77,476; Berwickshire,
£131,150; Blane Valley, £21,479; Bridge of Weir, £29,725; Busby, £38,935 ; Caledonian,
£10,453,442 ; Castle Douglas and Dumfries, £244,532 ; City of Glasgow Union, £14,510;
Crieff and Methven, £7,205; Crieff Junction, £57,000 ; Deeside, £254,216 ; Devon Valley,
£20,018; Dumfries and Lockerby, £117,210; Dunblane and Callander, £78,212; Edin-
burgh and Bathsrate, £251,656; Edinburgh and Glasgow, £5,266,497; Esk Valley, £2,056;
Findhorn, £10,973; Formartine and Buchan, £461,479; Forth and Clyde, £236,940;
General Terminus and Glasgow Harbour, £212,595 ; Glasgow and Milngavie, £28,400;
Glasgow and Southwestern, £4,922,314; Great North of Scotland, £1,808,486;
Greenock and Wemyss Bay, £149,455 ; Inverness and Aberdeen Junction, £1,377,731 ;
Inverness and Perth Junction, £908,045 ; Inverury and Old Meldrum, £24,755 ; Keith
and Dufftown, £55,081; Kilmarnock and Troon, £40,000; Kirkcudbright, £75,928;
Leadburn and Dolphinton, £18,494; Leslie, £33,719; Leven and East of Fife, £136,170;
Maybole and Girvan, £147,419; Monkland, £935,457; Montrose and Bervie, £33,428 ;
Morayshire, £150,248; North British, £10,756,930 ; Peebles, £129,000; Portpatrick,
£556,622; St. Andrews, £26.300; Scottish Central, £2,940,556; Scottish Northeastern,
£3,245,278; Strathspey, £230,182.
COINS, WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
Scottish coinage cannot be traced higher than the twelfth century. During the whole of
the Scoto-Saxon period, Scottish money was of the same fashion, weight, and fineness as the
English, bore the same denominations, and was, in all respects, coequal with it in value.
David IT., amid the feebleness and wretched circumstances of his reign, coined groats,
xxxvi INTRODUCTION.
half-groats, pennies, and half-pennies of silver, but so debased the coinage, that it was, for
the first time, prohibited in England, or rated at a depreciated standard. The amount ot
deterioration was one-fifth of the whole value ; and was estimated nearly at that proportion
in the calculations of the English. David's successors not only followed his example, but
carried out the principle of it with a boldness and a rapidity of expansion which excite sur-
prise. Three, two, and one of the English pennies successively, and soon, became equal to
four of the Scottish. The money of Scotland was at length carried so far along the career of
deterioration, as, about the year 1600, to become only one-twelfth of the English in value ; and,
at this miserably depreciated rate, it has ever since stood in abstract or comparative reckoning.
Robert II., who ascended the throne in 1371, introduced gold pieces, and coined £17 12s. out
of one pound of gold. Mary coined royals of 10, 20, and 30 shillings, generally known under
the name of Crookston dollars. James VI. coined merks, half-merks, quarter-merks, half-quar-
ter-merks, nobles, and half-nobles. Charles II. coined pieces of 4 merks and 2 merks, dollars of
56 shillings each in value, half-dollars, quarter-dollars, half-quarter-dollars, and sixteenths of
dollars. James VII. coined 40 and 10 shilling pieces ; and William and Mary pieces of 60, 40,
20, 10, and 5 shillings. At the epoch of the Union nearly £900,000 existed in Scotland in
the different coins of various nations ; and the whole specie was recoined in uniformity with
the English standard, and, with very little addition of paper currency, put into circulation, to
the permanent exclusion of the old and wofully depreciated coins. — Copper money, or billon,
generally known by the name of black money, was introduced to Scotland a century and a-
half before it appeared in England. The copper coins of James II., III., IV., and V., — the
largest of which is about the size of a modern shilling, but very thin, — were probably intended
to pass for groats and half-groats. Mary coined placks, or fourpenny pieces ; and James VI.
coined bodies, or twopenny pieces, and hardheads, or threepenny pieces ; and Charles II., and
William and Mary, besides repeating parts of the former coinage, coined bawbees.
The early weights and measures of Scotland were derived chiefly from England, during the
12th century ; and whatever may have been their variety, they long continued to serve every
practical end among an uncommercial people. The parliament, desirous to maintain uniformity,
appointed standards in the several departments ; and assigned the keeping of the standard ell to
Edinburgh, that of the reel to Perth, that of the pound to Lanark, that of the firlot to Linlith-
gow, and that of the jug to Stirling. Yet these standards seem to have been very carelessly
kept ; and they did not prevent the usages of Scotland from becoming discrepant with those of
England, or even from assuming various and perplexing local peculiarities. An uniformity
of weights and measures was, from time to time, desiderated and attempted as a great social
benefit ; it was decreed by the act of Union to extend over both divisions of the United King-
dom ; and it was pleaded and abstractly exhibited in numerous elaborate pamphlets, which were
fruitlessly lauded by the learned, and coolly neglected or stolidly gazed at by the ignorant.
In spite of both laws and logic, the people remained so wedded to their practices, that, till
the recent introduction of imperial weights and measures, dissimilarities which arose during the
torpidity and ignorance of the feudal times, continued with many of the properties of an
intricate puzzle to perplex our theorists and embarrass our dealers.
PUBLIC REVENUE.
The revenue of Scotland, as to both its absolute amount and its relative proportion to that
of England, has to the full kept pace with the increasing prosperity of the country. It
amounted at the period of the Union, to £110,694 ; in 1788, to £1,099,148; in 1839, to
£4,701,271; in 1848, to £5,916,983; in 1851, to £6,154,804; in 1864, exclusive of the
post-office, to £8,382,687. The revenue from customs, in 1848, was £2,035,771 ; in 1851,
£1,944,554 ; in 1858, £2,266,440 ; in 1864, £2,826,827. The revenue from excise, in 1848,
was £2,395,253; in 1851, £2,755,378; in 1861, £3,470,426 ; in 1865, £4,062,196. The
revenue from stamps, in 1848, was £576,544; in 1851, £547,872 ; in 1858, £621,202 ; in
1865, £809,669. The revenue from land and assessed taxes, in 1848, was £287,771 ; in
1851, £289,867 ; in 1858, £213,532 ; in 1865, £207,055. The revenue from property and
income tax, exclusive of that from property in public funds, was, in 1847, £465,722 ; in
1857, £1,339,835; in 1861, £926,626; in 1864, £723,766. The revenue from the post-
office, in 1848, was £164,383 ; in 1851, £175,009 ; in 1860, £300,662. The chief items of ex-
cise tax, in 1865, were £173,690 on licences, £274,401 on malt, and £3,570,654 on spirits.
The divisions of property and income tax, in 1864, were £408,258 on real property, £37,754 on
occupancy of real property, £248,973 on trades and professions, and £28,781 on public salaries.
INTRODUCTION.
GOVERNMENT.
Till the reign of James I., all persons who held any portion of ground, however small, by
military service of the Crown, had seats in the Scottish parliament. The small barons were
afterwards excused from attendance, and represented by " two or more wise men, according
to the extent of their county." Parliament appointed the time of its own meetings and ad-
journments, nominated committees to wield its powers during recesses, possessed not only a
legislative but an executive character, exercised a commanding power in all matters of govern-
ment, appropriated the public money and appointed the treasurers of the exchequer, levied
armies and nominated commanders, sent ambassadors to foreign states and appointed the
judges and courts of judicature, and even assumed power to alienate the regal demesne, to
restrain grants from the Crown, and to issue pardons to criminals. The King, even so late
as in the person of James IV., was only the first servant of his people, and acted under the
direction of parliament ; he had no veto in the parliament's proceedings ; nor could he
declare war, make peace, or conduct any important business of either diplomacy or govern-
ment without that assembly's concurrence. The constitution of the country had much more
the character of an aristocracy than that of a limited monarch}'. The nobility — who were
dukes, marquises, earls, viscounts, and barons — were hereditary members of parliament ; but
they formed one house with the knights and burgesses, and occupied common ground
with them in all deliberations and decisive votes. The nobles and other members of parlia-
ment were checked in their turn by the common barons, just as they checked the king ; and
even the common barons, or the landholders, were, to a large extent, checked in turn by
their vassals. A jury of barons, who were not members of parliament, might sit on a lord's
case, of even the gravest character, and might decide it without being unanimous in their
verdict ; and the vassals of a baron so completely involved or concentrated all his available
power, in their own fidelity and attachment, as to oblige him, in many respects, to act more in
the character of the father of his clan than in that of a military despot. The king, too, —
while denied nearly all strictly royal prerogatives by the constitution of the country, — was
indemnified for most by the accidents of its feudal institutions. He acquired considerable
interest among the burgesses and lower ranks in consequence of the abuse of power by the
lords and great landowners ; and when he had sufficient address to retain the affections of the
people, he was generally able to humble the most powerful and dominant confederacy of the
aristocrats ; though, when he did not acquire popularity, he might dare to disregard the
parliament only at the hazard of his crown or his life.
The kings, — aided by the clerg)r, whose revenues were vast, and who were strongly jealous
of the power of the nobility, — eventually succeeded in greatly diminishing, and, at times,
entirely neutralizing, the aristocratical power of parliament. A select body of members was
established, from among the clergy, the nobility, the knights, and the burgesses, and called
" the Lords of the Articles ;" it was produced by the bishops choosing 8 peers, and the peers
8 bishops, by the 16 who were elected choosing 8 barons or knights of the shires, and 8 com-
missioners of royal burghs, and by 8 great officers of state being added to the whole, with the
Lord-chancellor as president ; its business was to prepare all questions, bills, and other matters,
to be brought before parliament ; and the clerical part of it being in strict alliance with the
king, while the civilian part was not a little influenced by his great powers of patronage, it
effectually prevented the introduction to parliament of any affair which was unsuited to his
views, and gave him very stringently all the powers of a real veto. This institution seems to
have been introduced by stealth, and never brought to a regular plan ; and as to its date
and early history, it baffles the research, or at least defies the unanimity, of the best informed
law writers. Yet " the Lords of the Articles " were far from being wholly subservient to the
Crown ; for they not only resisted the efforts of Charles I. to make them mere tools of his
despotism, but went freely down the current which swept that infatuated monarch to his
melancholy fate ; and, at the Revolution, they waived all ceremony about getting from the
fanatical idiot, James VII., a formal deed of abdication, and promptly united in a summary
declaration that he had forfeited his crown. Before the Union there were four great officers
of state, the Lord High-chancellor, the High-treasurer, the Privy-seal, and the Secretary, —
and four lesser officers, the Lord Clerk-register, the Lord-advocate, the Treasurer-depute, and
the Justice-clerk, — all of whom sat, ex officio, in parliament. The privy council of Scotland,
previous to the Revolution, assumed inquisitorial powers, even that of torture ; but it is now
swamped in the privy council of Great Britain.
INTRODUCTION.
The Scottish nobility, since the Union, return from among their own number 16 peers to
represent them in the upper house of the imperial parliament. Between the Union and the
date of the Reform bill, the freeholders of the counties, who amounted even at the last to
only 3,211 in number, returned to the House of Commons 30 members ; the city of Edin-
burgh returned 1 ; and the other royal burghs, 65 in number, and classified into districts,
returned 13. The Parliamentary Reform act in 1832, added, at the first impulse, 29,904 to
the aggregate constituency of the counties ; but it allowed them only the same number of
representatives as before, — erecting Kinross, Clackmannan, and some adjoining portions of
Perth and Stirling, into one electoral district, conjoining Cromarty with Ross and Nairn
with Elgin, and assigning one member to each of the other counties. The same act enfran-
chised various towns, or erected them into parliamentary burghs, increased the burgh con-
stituency from a pitiful number to upwards of 31,000, and raised the aggregate number of
representatives from 14 to 23.
The officers of state for Scotland in recent times are the Keeper of the Great Seal, the
Lord-Privy-Seal, the Lord-Clerk-Register, the Lord Advocate, and the Lord- Justice- Clerk.
The supreme civil court, a court both of law and of equity, is the Court of Session. This
originated in the reign of James V., but was modified at the Union, and has been materially
altered even since the commencement of the present century. An account of its constitution,
together with notices of the other metropolitan civil courts, will be given in our article on Edin-
burgh. The supreme criminal court is the High Court of Justiciary, consisting of the Lord-
Justice-General or the Lord-Justice-Clerk and five other judges, who also are judges of the
Court of Session. This court sits in full at Edinburgh, as occasion requires, for the three
Lothians and for reference-cases from the rest of Scotland; and it holds regular circuit courts,
by distribution of its members, at Jedburgh, Dumfries, Ayr, Glasgow, Inverary, Stirling,
Perth, Aberdeen, and Inverness. The inferior courts of law are the baillie courts in burghs,
and the sheriff courts and justice of peace courts in counties. The magistrates of burghs
vary in title and number, according to the set of each burgh ; but the magistrates of counties
comprise, in every instance, lord-lieutenant, deputy-lieutenants, sheriff, sheriff-substitute, and
justices of peace.
ADMINISTRATIVE DIVISIONS.
Scotland was anciently divided and subdivided into so many jurisdictions, and underwent
such frequent changes in their limits, that any successful attempt to enumerate them would
be insufferably irksome and almost wholly uninstructive. The names of some of the larger
jurisdictions continue to be used, and serve aptly to designate subdivisions of extensive
counties ; and other ancient names are, in several instances, popularly applied to whole coun-
ties in preference to the modern and legal designations. The counties — or, more properly',
the sheriffdoms or shires — have, for upwards of half-a-century, been 32 in number. But
they are excessively, and even ridiculously, various in extent ; and, in many instances, are as
grotesquely outlined, and even hewn into detached pieces, as if sheer merry-andrewism had
presided over their distribution. An enormous addition, too, is made to the puzzle of their
intertracery by parishes — which in most parts of Scotland constitute the only available sub-
division— being, in very many instances, made to overleap the county boundary-line, and to
lie, either compactly or detachedly, in two or even three shires. These evils, however, have
been practically remedied by three devices, — placing two small neighbouring counties under
one sheriff, — dividing large or populous counties into two or more districts, with each its own
sheriff-substitute, — and placing detached or intersecting tracts under the administration of
the functionary by whose proper territory they are surrounded. The first and the second of
these devices, with the exception of Cromartyshire being joined to Ross-shire, and of Lanark-
shire being divided into three wards, are quite recent, or indeed are only now in the course
of being carried out; but they will no doubt be found, as the third has done, to contribute
greatly to convenience and efficiency ; though certainly the first and the third together pro-
duce the collateral disadvantage of rendering the limits of a county in regard to its admini-
stration exceedingly different from these limits in regard to its statistics. The anomaly of
Kirkcudbrightshire being, not a shire but a stewartry, is scarcely worthy of mention ; for it
relates only to a name, and it wins diminishment or aggrandizement from that name exactly
as one thinks of the feudal steward of a limited jurisdiction, or the princely the royal steward
of broad Scotland.
INTRODUCTION.
Two of the counties — Bute and Orkney — consist entirely of islands ; the former of those
in the frith of Clyde, the latter of the Orkney and the Shetland archipelagoes. Three —
Argyle, Inverness, and Eoss — consist chiefly of territory on the mainland, and partly of the
islands of the Hebrides. Two counties — Clackmannan and Kinross — comprehend each less
than 84 square miles ; seven — Linlithgow, Bute, Nairn, Renfrew, Dumbarton, Cromarty, and
Selkirk — comprehend less than 266 ; four — Inverness, Argyle, Perth, and Ross — comprehend
more than 2,590 ; and four — Aberdeen, Sutherland, Dumfries, and Ayr — comprehend more
than 1,040. The following table gives the names of the shires in the order of their size,
beginning with the largest, and states the ancient names, whether of subdivisional or of co-
extensive application.
Shires. Ancient Names.
Inverness, Lochaber, Badenoch, Moidart, Arisaig, Morer, Knoydart, Glenelg, Strathglass, and
parts of Moray, Strathspey, and Ross, besides Skye, and other Hebridean islands.
Argyle, Cowal, Kintyre, Knapdale, Lorn, including Appin, Kingarloch, Ardnamurclian,
Suinart, Lochiel, Glenorehy, Morvern, and Ardgower, besides Mull, Isla, Jura,
and other Hebridean islands.
Perth, Perth, Stormont, Strathearn, Gowrie, Athole, Breadalbane, Monteith, Glenshiel, Ran-
noch, Balquidder.
Ross, East-Ross, Ard-Ross, Kintail, Lochalsh, Kishorn, Toridon, Gairloch, Lochbroora,
Strathcarron, and Black Isle, besides Lewis and other Hebridean islands.
Aberdeen, Mar, Buchan, Garioch, Formartin, Strathbogie.
Sutherland, Sutherland, Strathnaver, Assynt, Edderachvlis, and Lord Reay's country.
Dumfries, Nithsdale, Annandale, Eskdale, and Ewesdale.
Ayr, Cunningham, Kyle, and Carrick.
Lanark, Clydesdale.
Forfar, Angus, including Glenisla, Glenesk, and Glenprosen.
Orkney, Orkney Islands and Shetland Islands.
Kirkcudbright, East-Galloway.
Caithness, Caithness.
Roxburgh, Teviotdale and Liddesdale.
Banff, Strathdeveron, Boyne, Enzie, Balveny, and Strathaven.
Stirling, Stirling, and part of Lennox.
Fife, Fife and Forthryfe.
Berwick, Merse, Lammermoor, and Lauderdale.
Elgin, Central part of Moray, and part of Strathspev
Wigton West Galloway.
Kincardine, Meamg.
Edinburgh, Mid-Lothian.
Peebles, Tweeddale.
Haddington, East-Lothian.
Selkirk, Ettrick Forest.
Cromarty, Ross.
Dumbarton, Lennox.
Renfrew, Strathgryfe, and part of Lennox.
Nairn, Moray, &c.
Bate, Bute, Arran, &c.
Linlithgow West-Lothian.
Kinross, Part of Forthryfe, ) p..
Clackmannan Strathdevon, j" ' e'
CRIME.
Clear, judicious, comprehensive statistics of crime in Scotland have been produced since
1836, both in annual totals and in quinquennial averages. We shall give the summaries of
them in three tables, with reference to respectively the numbers of the criminals, the classes
of their offences, and the state of their education. And first, as to the numbers of the
criminals : —
Average of 1836-40
Average of 1841-45
Average of 1845-50
Average of 1851-55
Average of 1856-60
Average of 1861-'64
Next, as to the classes of offences :
Committed for trial or
bailed.
Total convicted
Convicted under
Sentenced
Tried.
outlawed, or
aggravation of pre-
to
cuted
Males.
Females.
Total.
found insane.
vious convictions.
death.
2,516
834
3,349
2,789
2,563
506
o.3
i*
2.685
1,010
3,696
3,082
2,791
641
If
i
3.248
1,240
4,488
3,689
3,370
977
0±
a
2,812
1,069
3,881
3,190
2,947
854
24.
1?
2,552
1,067
3,619
2,924
2,524
831
n
4
2,414
952
3,366
2.744
2,490
755
H
1
xl
INTRODUCTION.
Average of Average of Average of Average of Average of Average of
Offences against tbe person, ....
Offences against property with violence,
Offences against property without violence,
Malicious offences against property,
Forgery and offences against the currency,
Other offences not included in the above classes,
1S36-40.
1S41-45.
1846-50.
1851-55.
1856-60.
1861-G4
751
835
1,088
1,014
1,034
900
530
537
703
532
377
408
1,676
1,883
2,182
1,916
1,827
1,708
47
64
73
62
63
54
120
137
146
109
85
74
266
239
295
247
232
234
And next, as to the offenders' years and state of education :
Average of 1836-40,
Average of 1841-45,
Average of 1846-50,
Average of 1851-55,
Average of 1856-60,
Average of 1861-64,
Offenders of or under
Could
neither
Could read or
Could read and
Had superior
sixteen years ot
age.
read nor write.
write imperfectly.
write well
education.
Males. Females,
Total.
Males.
Females.
Males.
Females.
Males.
Females.
Males. Fern.
461 94
555
431
237
1,422
512
491
50
66 2|
496 115
611
485
268
1,684
684
437
56
61 2%
512 126
638
615
309
1,962
844
582
93
71 3|
450 109
559
539
317
1,605
679
571
83
76 4
343 102
445
478
280
1,407
691
507
84
74 5
257 54
311
404
263
1,382
602
525
78
89 5J
POOR LAW.
s
Compulsory assessment for the poor has been statutory in Scotland since so remote a period
as 1576 ; but was allowed to lie almost wholly in abeyance, for sake of the resources of the
kirk-session or of voluntary assessment, till the passing of a special act by the imperial parlia-
ment in 1845. The total of paupero-parochial combinations, or of territoral divisions regard-
ed parochially for the purposes of pauper economy, is 883 ; and the number of those contri-
buting organizedly for the support of the poor, when the new act came into operation, was
only about 230; but the number in 1846 was 445,— in 1848, 602,— in 1850, 644,— in
1852, 671,— in 1856, 716,— in 1860, 749,— in 1864, 770. Anyone of four modes of as-
sessment is permitted ; but the first of these, which allows a parish to distinguish lands and
heritages into two or more classes, according to the purposes for which they are used or oc-
cupied, and to assess the tenants or occupants of each class in such different rates as may
seem just and reasonable, is the one generally preferred, having been adopted in no fewer
than 746 of the 770 organized parishes of 1864.
The sums received from all sources for the relief and management of the poor were, in 1836,
£171,042 ; in 1840, £202,812 ; in 1845, £258,814 ; in 1849, £583,613 ; in 1852, £541,889 ;
in 1856, £651,000; in 1860, £671,515; in 1864, £776,455. The expenditure yearly in
various years, together with the rate per head on the population according to the previous
census, and the rate per cent, on real property according to the return of 1843, was as follows : —
Period.
Year ending
Feb. 1, 1846,
May 14, 1848,
May 14, 1850,
May 14, 1852,
May 14, 1855,
May 14, 1860,
May 14, 1864,
Relief of
poor on
the roll.
£
246,542
441,885
414,680
401,954
461,243
518,546
575,5S4
Relief of
casual
poor.
£
24,633
53,384
31,556
25,906
27,356
22,218
26,936
Medical
relief.
Manage-
ment.
I.aw
expenses.
Poor-
house
buildings
General
sanitary
measures
Total ex-
penditure.
Rate per
head
on pop.
Rate per
cent, on
property.
£
£
£
£
£
£
s. d.
£ s. d.
4,055
17,454
2,545
295,232
2 3
3 3 4
30,339
42,033
5,719
10,971
544,334
4 ljf
5 16 9
26,574
50,881
10,660
42,814
4,3S4
581,553
4 5
6 4 94
21,436
51,644
13,266
21,186
393
535.868
4 1
5 14 11|
27,166
58,767
10,290
20,605
6,355
611,734-
4 21
6 11 3i
26,738
67,048
8,750
19,973
663,277
4 7
7 2 3^
30,601
81,738
8,283
46,885
770,029
5 0}
8 5 2A
The following table gives the personal statistics of these years under various heads-
Period.
Year ending.
Feb. 1, 1846,
May 14, 184S,
May 14, 1850,
May 14, 1852,
May 14, 1855,
May 14, 1860,
May 14, 1864,
J, {.
ex-, a <o
£-35
■s Z 3»J
° 3 c =s
t. o 'C «
w a. - ^»
5 £2 o>
as
100,961
101,454
99,637
100,560
95,761
101,636
23,231
22,423
24,526
20,673
18,455
22,954
69,432
77,730
79,031
75,111
79,S87
77,306
78,682
5 o.a
Is.
26,894
126,684
53,070
46,031
42,863
39,302
50,186
8,577
14,235
7,627
5,757
5,139
6,038
'So'!
?66
604
399
241
181
248
1 C2 o
K P 2 o
13,733
6,306
5,253
2,163
1,176
1,939
3,480
3,421
3,634
4,292
6,025
6,289
!Bo.
6,121
7,969
7.6S1
8,955
7,342
6,537
INTRODUCTION.
xli
Poor-houses are provided by single populous parishes, or by groups of contiguous parishes.
In August 1864- there were 53 in operation, aggregately containing accommodation for 12,895
inmates; serving for 263 parishes, which had a population of 1,683,065 in 1861, and oc-
cupied on the 1st of July 1864 by 7,165 paupers. These poor-houses are for Edinburgh,
Canongate of Edinburgh, St. Cuthberts of Edinburgh, Glasgow, Govan, Barony of Glasgow,
Aberdeen, Old Aberdeen, Athole, Ayr, Black Isle, Campbelton, Cunningham, Dalkeith,
Dumfries, Dundee, Dunfermline, Dysart, Easter Ross, Falkirk, Forfar, Galashiels, Greenock,
Hawick, Inveresk, Inverness, Jedburgh, Kelso, Kirkcaldy, Kirkcudbright, Kirkpatrick-Flem-
ing, Kyle, Latheron, North Leith, South Leith, Liff and Benvie, Linlithgow, Lochgilphead,
Lorn, Maybole, New Monkland, Old Monkland, Mull, Nairn, Paisley, Abbey of Paisley,
Peebles, Perth, Rhinns of Galloway, Skye, Stirling, Thurso, Upper Nithsdale, and Upper
Strathearn. In August 1864, also, 13 other poor-houses, for the use of 85 parishes, which
had a population of 245,431 in 1861, were in progress.
POPULATION.
The following table shows, for each of the counties, and for the whole kingdom, the amount
of the population of Scotland in the years 1801, 1811, 1821, 1831, 1841, 1851, and 1861,
with the increase or decrease per cent, during each ten years, decrease being indicated by
the sign ( — ).
Persons.
In
creas
; or d
ecreas
e per
cent
1801
1S11
1821
1831
1841
1851
Counties.
1801.
1811.
1821.
1831.
1841.
1851.
1861.
to
1811
to
1821
to
1831
to
1S41
to
1851
to
18C1
Aberdeen,
121,065
133.S71
155,049
177,657
192,387
212,032
221,569
10
16
15
8
10
4.4
Argyle,
S1.277
86.541
97,316
100,973
97,371
89,298
79,724
6
12
4
—4
—9
—12.0
Ayr,
84,207
103.S39
127,299
145,055
164,356
1S9.858
19S.971
23
23
14
13
15
4.8
Banff,
37,216
38,433
43.663
48,337
49,679
54,171
59,215
3
14
11
3
9
9.3
Berwick,
30,206
S0.S93
33.3S5
34.04S
34.43S
36,297
30,613
2
8
o
1
5
O.S
Bute,
11.791
12,033
13,797
14,151
15,740
16.60S
16,331
2
15
3
11
5
—1.6
Caithness,
22,609
23,419
29,181
34,529
36,343
SS.709
41,111
4
25
18
5
6
6.2
Clackmannan,
10.S5S
12,010
13,263
14,729
19,155
22,951
21,450
10
10
11
30
20
—7.0
Dumbarton, ,
20,710
24,189
27,317
33,211
44,296
45,103
52,034
16
13
22
33
1
15.3
Dumfries,
54.597
62,960
70,878
73.770
72.S30
78,123
75,878
15
13
4
-1
7
—2.9
Edinburgh,
122,597
14S.607
191,514
219,345
225,454
259,435
273,997
21
29
15
2
15
5.6
Elgin or Moray,
27,760
27,967
31.39S
34.498
35,012
3S.959
42,695
1
12
10
1
11
9.5
Fife,
93,743
101,272
114,556
12S.S39
140,140
153,546
154,770
8
13
12
9
10
0.7
Forfar,
99,053
107, 1S7
113,355
139,606
170,453
191,264
204,425
8
6
23
22
12
6.8
Haddington,
29.9S6
31,050
35,127
36,145
35.8S6
36,386
37,634
3
13
3
— 1
1
3.4
Inverness,
72,672
77,671
89,961
94,797
97,799
96,500
88.8S8
7
16
5
3
—2
—8.5
Kincardine,
26,349
27,439
29.11S
31,431
33,075
34.59S
-34,466
4
6
8
5
5
—0.3
Kinross,
6,725
7,245
7,762
9,072
8,763
S.924
7,977
8
7
17
— 3
2
—11.8
Kirkcudbright,
29,211
33,684
3S.903
40.590
41,119
43,121
42,495
15
15
4
1
5
—1.4
Lanark,
147,692
191,291
244.3S7
316.S19
426,972
530,169
631,566
29
28
SO
34
24
19.1
Linlithgow,
17,844
19,451
22,685
23.291
26.872
30.135
38,645
9
17
3
15
12
2S.2
Nairn,
8,322
8,496
9.26S
9,354
9,217
9,956
10,065
2
9
1
— 1
8
1.0
Orkney and Shetland,
46,824
46.153
53,124
5S.239
61,065
62.533
64,065
— 1
15
10
5
2
2.4
Peebles,
8,735
9,935
10,046
10,578
10.499
10,738
11,408
13
1
5
— 1
2
6.4
Perth,
125,583
134,390
138.247
142,166
137,457
13S.660
133,500
7
3
3
—3
1
—3.8
Renfrew,
78,501
93,172
112,175
133,443
155,072
161,091
177,561
18
20
19
16
4
10 2
Ross and Cromarty,
56.318
60,853
6S.762
74.S20
78.6S5
82,707
81,406
8
13
9
5
5
—1.5
Roxburgh,
33.721
37,230
40,892
43,663
40,025
51,642
54,119
10
10
7
5
12
4.7
Selkirk,
. 5.3SS
5,889
6,637
6,833
7,990
9.S09
10,449
9
13
3
17
23
6.5
Stirling,
50.S25
58,174
65,376
72,621
S2.057
86,237
91,296
14
12
11
13
5
65
Sutherland,
23,117
23.629
23.S40
25.51S
24.7S2
25,793
25,246
2
1
7
—3
4
—2.1
Wigton,
22.91S
26.S91
33,240
36.258
39,195
43.SS9
42,095
17
24
6
8
11
—3.0
Totals, . . 1,608,420 1,S05,SC4 2,091,521 2,364,386 2,620,184 2,S8S,742 3,062,294 12 16 13 11 10 6.0
The number of males and females in each county, and the number of inhabited houses, of
uninhabited houses, and of houses in the course of erection, together with some other statis-
tics of county population, will be found stated in our articles on the several comities. The
average number of rooms to a house, of rooms to a family, of persons to a house, and of per-
sons to a room, the per centage of families occupying one room with no window, and of fa-
milies occupying one room with only one window, the number of persons to a square mile,
and the number of acres to a person, in every county of Scotland in 1861, are shown in the
followinsr table:—
xlii
INTRODUCTION.
Average No. Average No. Average No.
Counties. of Rooms of Rooms of Persons
to a House, to a Family, to a House.
Aberdeen, 4-2 2-6 67
Argyle, 31 2-5 57
Ayr, 3-7 2-2 7-7
Banff, 32 27 5-3
Berwick, 3-4 2-8 5-7
Bute, 4-8 2-9 7-0
Caithness, 2-6 2-1 5'5
Clackmannan, 3'8 2-3 7-1
Dumbarton, 4-8 2-5 8-8
Dumfries, 3'5 2-7 57
Edinburgh, 7'6 29 11-3
Elgin, 3-7 3-0 5-2
Fife, 3-5 2-5 5-9
Forfar, 4-8 2-3 87
Haddington, 36 2-8 5-5
Inverness, 28 2-4 53
Kincardine, 33 27 5-1
Kinross, 3-3 2 7 4-8
Kirkcudbright, 4-1 32 5-8
Lanark, 6"3 22 13.5
Linlithgow, 3-3 2-1 7-1
Nairn, 3-2 2-7 4-9
Orkney & Shetland, 2 2 1-7 55
Peebles, 3-7 3-1 5-7
Perth, 4-2 2-6 6-0
Renfrew, 7-3 2-2 148
Ross and Cromarty, 2-7 2-3 5-1
Roxburgh, 4-1 2-7 6-9
Selkirk, 4-3 2-8 7-1
Stirling, 4-0 2-4 7-4
Sutherland, 2-8 2-5 5-1
Wigton, 3-6 2-8 6-1
Total of Scotland, 4-3 2-5 77
Per Centage Per Centage
Average No. of Families of Families Number of Number of
of Persons in one Room in one Room Persons to a Acres to a
to a Room. with no with only 1 Square Mile. Person.
Window. Window.
1-6
1-8
2-0
1-6
1-6
1-4
2-1
1-8
1-8
16
1-4
1-4
1-6
1-7
1-5
1-8
1-5
1-4
1-3
2-1
2-1
1-5
2-5
1-5
1-4
2-0
1-8
1-6
1-6
18
1-7
1-6
0-57
2-30
1-22
0-83
0-66
0-74
2-48
0-97
1-85
1-02
0-48
0;81
0-45
0-56
0-65
5-31
0-52
013
0-47
0-54
2-16
2-30
8-66
0-56
1-16
0-99
2-88
1-95
0-09
0-66
2-40
1-02
25-79
31-26
44-44
23-81
40-15
23-95
32-60
40-39
33-74
33-41
34-93
21-10
33-10
33-68
37-36
2546
22-14
29-26
25-50
38-71
44-05
27-10
33-67
32-57
26-88
38-64
27-10
37-87
37-93
3805
21-59
33-15
112-4
24-5
173-1
86-3
77-4
95-5
57-7
466-3
162-6
69-1
746-5
80-4
301-7
229-8
134-4
20-8
87-4
102-2
44-5
710-4
304-2
46-8
68-5
32-0
47-1
718-8
25-8
80-7
40-1
198-9
13-3
82-2
5-68
26-11
3-69
7-41
8-27
6-69
11-08
1-37
3-93
9-26
0-85
7-96
2-12
2-78
4-76
30-63
7-31
6-24
14-36
0-90
2-09
13-66
9-34
19-97
13-58
0-89
24-76
7-91
15-93
3-21
47-81
7-78
1-7
1-19
34-00
99-7
6-41
EDUCATION.
The Universities of Scotland are, in most particulars, sufficiently noticed in our articles on
St. Andrews, Glasgow, Aberdeen, and Edinburgh, the cities in which they are situated. All,
except that of Edinburgh, existed before the Reformation ; and that of St. Andrews is illus-
triously associated with the name of Melville, and makes an honourable figure in the history
of the revival of literature. They formerly differed from one another in parts of their con-
stitution, and laboured all more or less under disadvantages ; but they were brought nearly
to uniformity, and materially altered and improved, by a comprehensive act, passed in 1856.
A commission was then appointed, to continue till 1st January 1862, or, by order of the
Queen and privy council, for a year longer, to unite the two of Aberdeen into one, to orga-
nize a new government for all, to revise the powers, privileges, and endowments of each, to
found new professorships where necessary, and to make rules for admission of students,
course of study, manner of teaching, fees, examinations, and degrees. Each of the univer-
sities has now a chancellor, a rector, a principal, a senatus academicus, and a general council,
and is governed by a university court. The senatus academicus consists of the principal
and the professors, confers degrees, and, subject to the control of the university court, super-
intends discipline and administers property. The general council consists of the chancellor,
the university court, the professors, and all alumni who are off the roll of students, and up-
wards of 21 years of age; and it takes part in the election of office-bearers, according to pro-
visions of the act, and makes representations to the university court on all questions affecting
the university's prosperity. The university courts vary somewhat from one another in
constitution, and will be noticed in our articles on the universities' seats. The professors
prior to 1851, required to be members of the Established church; and the principals, except
of St. Andrews, prior to 1856, required to be clergymen ; but all are now free from restriction.
The students have ever been treated without reference to creeds or sects. Sums were
issued to the Universities, from the Consolidated Fund, for compensation under the Copy-
right act, from J 845 to 1865, amounting to £44.640 ; sums were voted to the Universities,
INTRODUCTION. xliii
by Parliament, for their proper uses, from 1845 to 1865, increasing from .£7,079 to .£16,282
a-year, and amounting to .£175,576 ; and payments were made for buildings of the Univer-
sities, superintended by the Office of Works, in the same years, to the amount of £35,705.
The public schools of Scotland were almost all, for some time, on the parochial system.
This was established, by act of parliament, toward the close of the 17th century ; it theoreti-
cally required that there should be at least one school in each parish ; and, except in the remote
Highland districts, it was very promptly and generally adopted. It seemed to be well suited
to the educating of the people ; it was worked vigorously, with good results ; and it earned
for Scotland the fame of being the best-educated country in the world ; yet it was slowly and
reluctantly discovered to possess many defects, both intrinsic and extrinsic ; it required to be
supplemented, in sequestered districts, by many appliances ; it was superseded, in the large
towns, by burgh-schools and association academies ; and, though continuing to confer im-
portant advantages, it eventually allowed other and younger countries to overtop Scotland in
educational celebrity. Great efforts were made by the Established Church, at various times
and in various forms, in most parts of Scotland, but especially throughout the Highlands, to
supply its deficiencies. One of the grandest of these efforts began so early as 1704, in the
organization of the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge ; and another grand one
■was developed in 1824, in the appointing of a Committee of Assembly, with the character of
a Board, to form and superintend schools. The Pree Church also, from the time of its for-
mation in 1843, made strong exertion to have a school in connexion with each of its congre-
gations ; and it carried out the exertion so successfully as to have 712 in 1851. The Episco-
palians and the Roman Catholics likewise, in proportion to their numbers, made scarcely
less efforts ; other religious bodies, particularly the United Presbyterians, in many of their
congregations, achieved much ; and large numbers of influential persons, in various capaci-
ties as patriots or philanthropists, individually or in association, accomplished more. The
Committee of Privy Council on Education came to the aid of the schools in 1839, and, from
that year till the end of 1864, made grants of £508,3S5 to those connected with the Estab-
lished Church, £394,929 to those connected with the Pree Church, £43,487 to those con-
nected with Episcopalians, and £23,354 to those connected with Roman Catholics. But dis-
satisfaction with the working of the grants and with the classification of the schools extensively
existed ; a desire for a national school system was widely felt ; and a Commission to inquire
into the schools was appointed, in 1864, by the Crown. The first report of the Commission
■was dated in March 1865, but contained only the oral-evidence taken till that date; and
the second report was expected to be ready for presentation to Parliament, in time to admit
of action upon it before the end of the session of 1866.
The number of children, from 5 to 15 years of age, attending school during the first week
of April 1861, was 441,166; but that number excluded all scholars then absent from ill
health or other causes, all scholars receiving instruction at home through tutors or gover-
nesses, and all scholars attending such schools, as, on account of Spring agricultural
operations, are shut during the month of April ; and the number of scholars of all ages, at
that date, was 479,856. The number of schools visited by the government inspectors, be-
tween 1 September 1863 and 31 August 1864, for examination connected with annual
grants, was 1,382 schools, with 1,632 school-rooms; for examination unconnected with
grants, 181 schools, with 183 school-rooms; in all, 1,563 schools, with 1,815 school-rooms.
Of the 1,563 examined on account of grants, 867 were of the Established Church, and had
89,433 children present at examination, 983 certificated teachers, and 1,077 pupil teachers ;
392 were of the Pree Church, or of other non-Established churches, and had 45,290 chil-
dren present at examination, 488 certificated teachers, and 493 pupil teachers; 82 were of
the Episcopal Church, and had 9,758 children present at examination, 85 certificated teachers,
and 136 pupil teachers; and 41 were Roman Catholic, and had 7,850 children present at
examination, 50 certificated teachers, and 99 pupil teachers. Of the 181 examined uncon-
nectedly with grants, 146 were of the Established Church, and had 2,673 children present;
14 were of the Free Church, or of other non-Established churches, and had 1,092 children
present; 20 were of the Episcopal Church, and had 1,117 children present; and 1 was
Roman Catholic, and had 345 children present. Of the 1,382 examined for annual grants,
163 of the Established Church, 110 of the Pree Church, 22 of the Episcopal Church, and
14 of the Roman Catholic ones, had ladies' committees to superintend instruction in domestic
industry. The number of school-houses erected with aid of parliamentary grants, from 1839
till the end of 1864, was 364 of the Established Church, with accommodation for 34,044
xliv INTRODUCTION.
scholars ; 305 of the Free Church, and of other non-Established churches, with accommoda-
tion for 25,113 scholars, and 16 of the Episcopal Church, with accommodation for 2,054
scholars; or 695 in all, with accommodation for 61,211 scholars. The total cost of erection
of these schools was £288,904 ; and the proportion of this furnished by parliamentary grants
was £95,449.
Parochial schools have now no existence, or merely a nominal one, in large or considerable
towns ; but they continue to be prominent in all smaller towns, and throughout the rural
districts. The majority of parishes have each one parochial school ; some have two ; a few
have three, or even four. The schoolmasters, prior to 1861, required to be members of the
Established Church, and were under the jurisdiction of the presbyteries of their bounds ; but,
in terms of an Act of that year, may now belong to other communions, are qualified for
office by a testing examination on the part of examiners appointed by the university courts,
and, in cases of immoral conduct or cruelty, are under the jurisdiction of the sheriff. The
parochial schoolmasters are appointed by the parochial heritors and clergymen, with the
reservation that, if two or three candidates are sent to the examiners, the one whom they
certify to be the best qualified is held to be elected ; and prior to the Act of 1861 they had
a maximum salary of £34 4s. 4^d., but now have a minimum of £35, and a maximum of
£70, or, in cases of two or more schools in one parish, a minimum for all of £50, and a
maximum of £80. About 250 of the schoolmasters, in 1865, were in receipt of Privy Coun-
cil grants ; and a large number of them, particularly throughout the counties of Aberdeen,
Banff, and Elgin, have considerable receipts from endowments or special bequests. The total
number of parochial schools, in 1851, was 937; and in 1865, including 38 female ones,
was 1,057.
The Established Church schools, in a general sense, include all the parochial schools, and
all others which accept examination by the Church's presbyteries ; and, in a special sense,
consist of those which receive support or aid from the Church's funds. The number reported
to have been examined during 1864 was 2,614, with 202,583 children on their roll; and
the number known or computed to have been under presbyterial supervision, was not fewer
than 3,000, with about 260,000 children on their roll. The number which received support
or aid from the Church's funds, in that year, was 172 mixed schools and 34 female schools,
together with 95 sewing-schools attached to the former ; the number of children attending
them was 19,417 on week days, together with upwards of 2,000 for their Sabbath instruc-
tion ; and the amounts received by their teachers were .£3,655 from the Church's funds, and
£6,851 from other sources. The Free Church schools, in 1865, comprised 570 which re-
ceived grants from the Church's funds, and about 200 which did not receive such grants.
The 570 were classified into 434 congregational schools, 100 side and industrial schools,' 30
missionary schools, 4 grammar schools, and 2 normal schools ; they were conducted by 594
teachers, and attended by 61,172 scholars; and, exclusive of the two normal ones, they re-
ceived from the Church's funds, £8,972. The schools of other religious bodies, in 1851 —
for we have not complete statistics of them at a later date — were 61 of the United Presby-
terian Church, with 5,807 scholars, 2 of the Reformed Presbyterian Church, with 355
scholars, 36 of the Episcopal Church, with 2,658 scholars, 4 of Independents, with 424
scholars, 1 of Baptists, with 167 scholars, and 32 of Roman Catholics, with 5,673 scholars.
The Established Church has two normal schools, the Free Church has two, and the Episcopal
Church has one. These schools are colleges for teachers, training them in both the prin-
ciples and the practice of teaching ; but they serve, at the same time, as great seminaries for
children ; and all are aided with Privy Council grants. The two of the Established Church
had 109 male students, and 101 female students in March 1865 ; received annually, for a
course of years, £500 from the Church's funds ; received, in 1864, £8,450 from Privy
Council grants; and received, from 1839 till 1863, a total of £103,999 from Privy Council
grants. The two of the Free Church had 116 male students and 127 female students in
March 1865 ; received, in 1864, £9,968 from various sources ; and received, from 1839 till
1863, a total of £105,439 from Privy Council grants. The one of the Episcopal Church
had 13 students in March 1865, and received, from 1839 till 1S"63, a total of £4,215 from
Privy Council grants.
The burgh schools, as a class, are much superior to the parochial schools; they exist in
most towns of more than 3,000 or 4,000 inhabitants ; they are generally under the patronage
of the local authorities, and those of the larger burghs commonly bear the name of high
schools or grammar schools, have a plurality of well-qualified teachers, afford a wide scope of
education, and possess, for the most part, a fair or respectable amount of emoluments. — Some
endowed schools, such as the Wallace academy in Closeburn, the Dollar institution in Dollar,
the Madras academy in Cupar-Fife, and the Madras college in St. Andrews, are large and
well-equipped establishments. — Very many schools in small towns, in villages, and in rural
districts receive support, in a variety of degrees, from heritors or other wealthy persons.
Subscription schools likewise make a considerable figure, but are exceeding varied in size, in
specific object, and in almost every other character. Some of these, and also some of the
previous class, are designed for particular descriptions of children ; some are in connexion
with factories or other public works ; and many are of so general or miscellaneous a nature
as to be incapable of classification.
Keformatory schools, certified under act of parliament, for the reclaiming of young offen-
ders, were began in 1854, and amounted to 14 in 1864. Eight of these were for boys, and
C for girls; 12 were Protestant, and 2 Roman Catholic. The average number of their in-
mates, in 1864, was 757 boys and 258 girls; the average cost of each inmate, £16 10s. 34d. ;
the amount contributed to them from parliamentary grants, £15,369. — Ragged or industrial
schools, for reclaiming outcast children, were of earlier origin ; they amounted, in 1851, to
21, with 1,182 male, and 795 female scholars; they afterwards became, in some degree, sup-
plementary to the reformatory schools ; and the number of them, in 1864, certified under act
of parliament, was 19, with 565 boys and 257 girls under detention.
Schools of art, under government sanction, in 1851, were 3, attended by 998 scholars, 214
of whom were upwards of 15 years of age ; and in 1864 were 9, attended by 11,188 scholars,
and receiving £1,190 of grants from the Science and Art Department. There were 4 navi-
gation schools in 1864; and these were attended, in the previous year, by 8,103 scholars.
Scientific classes, for instruction in many departments of physical science, varying from ele-
mentary to advanced, are held in connexion with numerous schools and institutions.
The school statistics of the Census of 1851 were very copious and minute ; and when mea-
sured by the amount of population at that time, they still throw much light on the educational
condition of the kingdom ; yet they are now available mainly in their leading figures, and
not much in their details. The number of day-school scholars, according to direct returns
from the schools, was 368,517 ; but by computation for missions and oversights, was 412,678.
The number of public day schools was 3,349, with 280,045 scholars ; of private day schools,
1,893, with 88,472 scholars; of Sabbath schools, 3,803, with 292,459 scholars; of evening
schools for adults, 438, with 15,071 scholars; and of institutions of a character intermediate
between educational and literary, 221. The number of day schools, public and private, in
which geography was taught to boys was 2,899, ancient languages 1,511, modern languages
581, mathematics 1,321, drawing 324, music 710, industrial occupations 50 ; and the number
in which geography was taught to girls was 2,910, ancient languages 188, modern languages
662, mathematics 65, drawing 298, music 915, industrial occupations 809. The number of
the public schools which were parochial was 937, with 75,955 scholars; which were burgh
schools 88, with 11,484 scholars ; which otherwise were supported by taxation 14, with 1,461
scholars; which were endowed 491, with 39,537 scholars; which were supported by reli-
gious bodies, 1,385, with 114,739 scholars; which were connected with factories, collieries, or
ironworks, 56, with 7,408 scholars ; which were supported or aided by subscription, 378, with
29,461 scholars. The number of scholars in the Sabbath schools belonging to the Estab-
lished Church was 76,233 ; to the Free Church, 91,328; to the United Presbyterians,
54,324; to the Reformed Presbyterians, 2,571; to the Episcopalians, 3,706; to the Inde-
pendents, 12,593; to the Evangelical Union, 1,853; to the Baptists, 2,506; to the Metho-
dists, 5,908; to the Roman Catholics, 13,015.
LITERATURE.
Scotland has long had the reputation of pre-eminent intellectuality. Her children have
equalled or excelled those of most modern countries in almost every department of learning
and art. A goodly proportion of them are known on the roll of fame to the ends of the
earth, and will continue to figure on it till the end of time. Among her mathematicians and
physicists may be mentioned the Gregorys, Maclaurin, Simpson, Black, Hutton, Robison,
Ferguson, Playfair, Ivory, and Leslie; among her ethical writers, Reid, Smith, Beattie, Os-
wald, Campbell, Lord Karnes, Lord Monboddo, Brown, and Stewart ; among her physicians
xlvi INTRODUCTION.
and anatomists, Cullen, the Gregorys, the Monroes, and Abercromby ; among her divines,
Leighton, Macknight, Brown, Hill, Dick, Moncrieff, Thomson, Chalmers, and Wardlaw;
among her engineers, Watt, Murdoch, Eennie, and Telford ; among her agriculturists,
Sinclair, Dickson, Ayton, Coventry, and Smith; among her historians, Fordun, Barbour,
Buchanan, Robertson, Hume, Smollett, and Tytler ; among her antiquaries, Lord Hailes,
Geddes, Pinkerton, Chalmers, and Jamieson ; among her critics, Blair, Karnes, Campbell, and
Jeffrey ; among her painters, Runciman, Jamieson, Raeburn, Thomson, Wilkie, and David
Scott ; among her novelists, Smollett, Mackenzie, Gait, Scott, "Wilson, and Lauder ; and among
her poets, Ossian, Ramsay, Thomson, Drummond, Armstrong, Beattie, Ferguson, Burns.
Tannahill, Leyden, Motherwell, Scott, Byron, and Wilson.
The Lowland Scotch are eminently a reading people, and, in proportion to their bulk, have
probably a very considerably larger number of public libraries than any other in the world
Subscription libraries — sometimes two or more in number, and generally large, select, and
comparatively rich in literature — exist in most of the large towns ; parochial and congre-
gational libraries, for the most part pervaded by religiousness of character, exist in villages,
hamlets, and in rooms attached to the crowded chapel of the city, or the solitary rural church
or meeting-house ; private circulating libraries, or libraries on private adventure, for letting
out books to promiscuous readers, are usually of a light character, and abound in city, town,
watering-place, and every locale or resort of the intellectually frivolous ; circumambulating
libraries, or such as keep detachments of a very large and excellent library in garrison through-
out the country, and periodically move them from post to post, are in full and benign posses-
sion of extensive territories ; Sabbath-school and other juvenile libraries, exist in great num-
bers, for the use of the young ; and a public news-room, for blending literature with
commerce, and with mental recreation, is to be found even in many a village, and in almost
everything which can fairly be called a town.
The book-trade of Scotland, with very few exceptions, is confined to Edinburgh and Glas-
gow, so that sufficient notice of it is contained in our articles on these two cities. The num-
ber of stamps issued to newspapers in Scotland, in the year ending September, 1836, was
2,654,438; in the year ending 5th January 1839, 4,228,370; and in the year ending
31st December, 1852, 6,656,922 at a penny and 229,197 at a halfpenny. The amount from
newspaper stamps, in 1861, was ^£18,1 12 ; in 1865, .£15,574. In 1866, 23 newspapers were
published in Glasgow, 15 in Edinburgh, 7 in Aberdeen, 6 in Dundee; 4 each in Paisley,
Perth, and Stirling ; 3 each in Ayr, Cupar-Fife, Dumfries, Elgin, Falkirk, Greenock, Inver-
ness, and Leith ; 2 each in Alloa, Arbroath, Ardrossan or Saltcoats, Crieff, Dumbarton,
Kelso, Kirkcaldy, Kirkwall, Lockerby, Montrose, Peterhead, Rothesay, St. Andrews, Stran-
raer, and Wick ; and 1 each in Airdrie, Annan, Anstruther, Banff, Blairgowrie, Brechin,
Campbelton, Castle-Douglas, Dalkeith, Dunfermline, Forres, Fraserburgh, Galashiels, Had-
dington, Hamilton, Hawick, Huntly, Invergordon, Jedburgh, Kilmarnock, Kinross, Kirkcud-
bright, Langholm, Linlithgow, Moffat, Nairn, Peebles, Portobello, Portsoy, Selkirk, and
Stonehaven. Fourteen were published daily, 3 thrice a- week, 9 twice a-week, 116 weekly,
2 fortnightly, and 4 monthly.
RELIGION.
The Established church of Scotland is strictly presbyterian. Each parish is governed by a
kirk- session, consisting of the minister and several lay-elders. A number of parishes, varying
from 3 to 39, send each its minister and a ruling elder to form a presbytery, and are, on a
common footing, under its authority. Several presbyteries contribute or amass all their mem-
bers to form a synod, and are individually subject to its review or revision of their proceed-
ings. All the presbyteries, in concert with the royal burghs, the four universities, and the
Crown, elect representatives, who jointly constitute the General Assembly. This is the
supreme court ; and will be found noticed in our article on Edinburgh. The Synods, 16 in
number, are exceedingly dissimilar in the extent of their territory, and the amount of their
population ; and the presbyteries, 84 in number, have also a very various extent, and are
distributed among the synods in groups of from 3 to 8.
The number of parishes strictly political, whose aggregate limits comprise the whole king-
dom, and whose ministers derive their income either from teinds or from some tantamount
provision, is 925. But 21 of these are collegiate charges, each having two ministers; and
several also have each two churches. There are likewise in connexion with the Establishment,
INTRODUCTION. xlvii
in the Highlands and Islands, 42 places of worship, which originated in a procedure of the
Government in 1823 for Scottish church-extension, and are called government or parlia-
mentary churches, — in the Lowlands, about 1!J8 places of worship, which originated at various
times and in various ways, in the enterprise of individuals, congregations, or societies, and ex-
cept in cases which we shall immediately specify, are called chapels-of-ease, — and in the
Highlands, in the Islands, or in parts of the Lowlands contiguous to the Highlands, 41 places
of worship, which originated in efforts of a missionary character, and are called missions of the
Committee of the General Assembly for managing the Royal Bounty. By an act of parliament
passed in 1844, any non-parochial place of worship connected with the Establishment, on
security of sufficient endowment for the stipend of its minister, and with the consent of a
majority of the heritors affected by it, may be erected by the Court of Teinds into a quoad
sacra parish church, having the same constitution and status, in government by kirk-session,
in rule over a specified territory around it, and in representation in the superior courts, as a
strictly political or quoad civilia parish church ; and in virtue of that act, 101 of the parlia-
mentary, mission, and chapel churches were, prior to May 18C5, made quoad sacra parochial.
The total number of places of worship connected with the Establishment in 1866, was 214 ;
and 132 of them still ranked as chapels of ease.
The main support of the quoad civilia parish ministers is derived from tithes, called in
Scotland teinds. The amount for each minister is assigned in chalders of grain ; so that its
money-value is variable; but this is determined each year by the average-prices of the pre-
vious year's grain crops in the county, officially struck by the sheriff with the help of a jury,
and called the fiars. Scottish teinds are all predial, and are divided into parsonage or the
greater teinds, consisting of the tithe of victual or grain, and vicarage or the lesser teinds,
consisting of the tithe of grass, flax, hemp, butter, cattle, eggs, and some other articles. The
tithes of fish are, in a few places, exigible ; but, along with all the vicarage teinds, they are
very inconsiderable. The parsonage teinds are held by the Crown, by universities, by pious
foundations, by lay titulars, or by the proprietors of the lands from which they are due; and,
with the limitation that those of one parish cannot, to any amount, be transferred to another
parish, they are, in all cases, exigible as payment of the stipends which have been provided
by law, or which may, in future, be awarded by the Court of Teinds. In 1838, those which
belonged to the Crown amounted in value to £38,051 0s. 4d. formerly belonging to the
bishops, £5,323 3s. lid. formerly belonging to the chapel royal, and £2,523 5s. lOd. for-
merly belonging to the abbacy of Dunfermline, — in all, £45,897 10s. Id. Of this sum,
£30,155 17s. 8d. was appropriated to ministers' stipends. Of the unappropriated amount,
the free yearly surplus, after necessary deductions, was only £10,182 4s. 8d., and the actual
receipt, in consequence of mismanagement, was a pitiful trifle. Teinds belonging to other
parties than the Crown, amounted to £281,384 14s. Of this sum, £146,942 was appro-
priated to ministers' stipends, leaving £138,186 17s. 6d. unappropriated. Any minister in
whose parish there are unappropriated teinds is entitled, after an interval of twenty years
from the date of the last augmentation of stipend out of them, to apply to the Court of
Teinds for another augmentation. From 1838 till 1851, applications for augmentation
were made from 141 parishes, and augmentations to the aggregate amount of £4,571 were
granted.
In 872 parishes, payment of the stipends is made from the teinds ; in each of 196 of these,
the teinds are less in value than £158 6s. 8d. ; and in each of about 220, while amounting to
£158 6s. 8d. and upwards, they are so low as to have been all appropriated. In those whose
teinds are less in value than £158 6s. 8d., the stipend is raised to that amount or upwards,
by payment from the exchequer. In quoad civilia burgh parishes, stipend is for the most
part paid from the burgh funds ; and in Edinburgh and a few other towns, it is paid from
funds specially levied under act of parliament. In the case of the parliamentary churches,
whether parochial or not, the stipend is a fixed allowance for each of £120 from the ex-
chequer ; and in the case of the chapels-of-ease, it is paid chiefly from seat-rents, and, in
some instances, partly from the church-door collections. Except in a few peculiar cases, the
ministers of quoad civilia parishes, either altogether or partly landward, are entitled to manses
and glebes ; and, in a few instances, they receive a money allowance in lieu of one or both.
In parishes which, while the teinds are low, confer no right to either manse or glebe, an
allowance is made from the exchequer, to raise the stipend to £200 ; and in those which, in
the circumstances, confer a right only to a manse, or to a glebe, but not to both, an allow-
ance from the same source makes the stipend £180. Ministers of the parliamentary churche«
xlviii INTRODUCTION.
are entitled by law each to a house and half-an-acre of garden ground ; and, in the majority
of instances, they have been provided by the heritors with glebes. In numerous parishes
the ministers have rights of grazing, or cutting turf and peats, and several other privileges of
aggregately little value. In quoad civilia country parishes, the area of the churches belongs
to the heritors, and is generally divided by them among the tenants and cottagers on their
estates ; and when a surplus, or disposable number, of the seats is let, the proceeds are, in
some instances, appropriated by the heritors for their private use, and, in others, given to the
poor. In quoad civilia burgh parishes, seat-rents are, in general, exacted for all, or nearly
all, the pews ; and are either employed for stipend, or drawn as common burgh revenue. In
the parliamentary churches, seat-rents were originally designed to be generally exigible, and
to be applied in maintaining the repair of the churches and manses ; but they are, in every
case, collected with difficulty, and, in some instances, have been entirely abandoned. The
aggregate amount of the stipends of the ministers of the Establishment, exclusive of assist-
ants and missionaries, on an average of 7 years preceding 1836, was, from parsonage teinds,
£179,393 10s. 3d., — from vicarage teinds, so far as thev were paid in money, or had been
valued, £712 19s. 8d.,— and from other sources, £51,345 5s. 0d.,— in all, £231,451 4s. lid.
The aggregate annual value of glebes, exclusive of a few not valued, was £19,168 15s. 3d.
The income of the church, from voluntary contributions, during the year ending 15th April,
1862, for schools, missions, and other schemes, was £50,202 14s. 5d.
The Free church of Scotland disputes with the Established church the palm of numbers
and of influence, and even claims to be the true historical national church. It was constituted
in May, 1843. Upwards of 500 ministers, a considerable number of preachers and of theo-
logical students, and a vast body of all classes of the people, at that time left the Establish-
ment and formed the Free church. The main cause of the disruption is briefly stated in our
article on Auchterarder. The constitution and government of the Free church are in all
respects the same as those of the Established church, excepting onty, or at least chiefly, the
absence of patronage, the want of state connexion, and the machinery of finance. Even the
distribution and the very nomenclature of the synods, the presbyteries, and the congregations,
in as far as circumstances could be made to admit, are the same as in the Establishment.
The number of synods at the date of the General Assembly in 1865 was 16 ; of presbyteries,
71; of organized congregations, 833; and of preaching stations, 71. The number of
places of worship at the date of the census in 1851 was 889. A guaranteed stipend is paid,
by equal dividend of the yearly proceeds of what is termed the sustentation fund, to each of
the ministers of the Free church, except those of a few recent or peculiarly situated congre-
gations, and this amounted for 1864 to £138. But a further sum accrues from other funds,
and raised the average stipend in 1864 to £184 10s. ; a still further sum, to any amount, is
paid by as many congregations as can afford to give it; and 657 of the ministers in 1864
had also manses. The amount raised by the Free church in the year ending 31st March,
1865, for the sustentation fund, was £118,083 9s. lid.; for building purposes, £41,821
13s. 6|d. ; for congregational objects, £113,338 12s. lfd. for missions and education,
£70,207 16s. 6d ; for miscellaneous purposes, 13,579 0s. lOd ; altogether, £357,030 12s. ll±d.
The United Presbyterian church is next in bulk to the Free church. It comprises the
congregations of the United Secession church and the Eelief church, which were united in 1846,
and which, previous to the formation of the Free church, were the two largest dissenting
bodies in Scotland. Its government is strictly presbyterian ; but it has only one synod, and
the representation there is the same as in its presbyteries, consisting of the minister or minis-
ters and one lay-elder from each congregation. There belonged in 1865 to this church 31
presbyteries and 590 organized congregations ; but the presbyteries vary in size from the in-
clusion of only 7 congregations to the inclusion of so many as 74 ; and five entire presby-
teries, portions of two others, comprising altogether 103 congregations, are out of Scotland.
The total of United Presbyterian regular congregations in Scotland, therefore, is 487 ; but
many of these are large ; and there are some mission churches and some preaching stations.
The total number of United Presbyterian places of worship in Scotland in 1851 was 465.
The disbursements for all congregational purposes are managed on the voluntary principle,
and the aggregate income for them, including extraordinary as well as ordinary, amounted in
1858 to £129^079 ; in 1864 to £178,858. Ministers' stipends, in the larger charges, range
from £300 to £700 ; in the medium charges, range from £120 to £300 ; and in the smaller
charges, receive a supplement from a central fund, included among the benevolent schemes,
and aiming to raise the minimum to £120. The sums contributed in the United Presbyterian
church during the year ending 31st December, 1864, for missionary objects and for other
ultra-congregational purposes, amounted to £50,690 13s. lid.
The Reformed Presbyterian church comprises 6 presbyteries and 45 congregations — one
of the latter in England. The Reformed Presbyterian church in Scotland comprises 2 pres-
byteries and 1 1 congregations — all Scotch. The Synod of United Original Seceders com-
prises 4 presbyteries and 27 congregations — 2 of the latter in Ireland ; but in 1851 it had in
Scotland 36 places of worship, a number of which afterwards became connected with the
Free church. The Scottish Episcopal Church is distributed into 7 dioceses, and comprises
at present 163 congregations. There are likewise in Scotland 8 English Episcopalian con-
gregations. The Independents in connexion with the Congregational Union of Scotland
have at present in Scotland 101 congregations; the Evangelical Union and affiliated churches
53; the various bodies of Baptists, about 78 ; and theWesleyan Methodists, about 34. But many
of all these classes of congregations, Independent, Union, Baptist, and Methodist, are very
small. There are likewise about 110 other congregations, either Protestant or at least not
Roman Catholic, of very diversified name and character, rarely more than 5 or 6 of them
grouped into a denomination, and so many as about 10 or 12 standing alone; and what all
these are may be proximately seen from the statistical table, which we subjoin of the Census
of 1851 ; but nota few of them, besides being very small, are fluctuating and ephemeral. The
Roman Catholic body in Scotland is distributed into three districts or quasi-dioceses, and
comprises at present 128 places of worship and 182 priests.
The following table shows the total church-accommodation and church-attendance in Scot-
land, as returned to the Census officers in 1851, including an estimate for returns defective
and for others known to be missing ; —
Number of Places open for Worship on Sunday,
Total
lumber of
March 30, 1851
Number of attendants a.
Places
of worship
and Number of Sittings thus
made available.
public worship on Sunday
and Sittings.
March 30th, IS
5j
Keligious Denominations.
Places ope)
Sittings.
Places.
Sittings.
Morn-
After- Even-
Morn-
After-
Even-
Morn-
After-
Even-
ing.
noon.
ing.
ing.
noon.
ing
ing.
noon.
ing.
Protestant Churches:
Presbyterian —
Established Church,
1,183
787,088
1,022
52S
98
713,567
398,195
70,226
351,454
184.192
30,763
Keformed Presbyterian Cli.,
39
10,969
35
26
7
15.055
11,465
2,874
8,739
7,460
2.180
Original Secession Cliurcli,
31!
10,424
35
26
4
15,781
12,794
3,093
6.562
5,724
1,629
Relief Church,
2
1.020
2
2
2
1,020
1.020
1,020
220
250
275
United Presbyterian Church,
465
288,100
436
341
90
273.554
227.7SI
47,374
159.191
146,411
30.S10
Free Church,
S89
495,335
741
467
18S
43S.363
315,9S5
116,669
292,308
198.5S3
64,811
F^iscopal Church,
134
40,022
116
S3
29
35,769
27.4S4
11,458
26.966
11,578
5,360
Independents,
192
76,342
169
122
90
70.S51
59.S84
34,915
26,392
24,866
17,273
Baptists,
119
26.0S6
9S
67
33
24.330
16,712
9,980
9,208
7,735
4,015
Society of Friends,
7
2,152
7
5
2,153
2,075
196
142
Unitarians,
5
2,437
5
3
3
2,438
1,100
2,400
863
130
855
Moravians,
1
200
1
1
200
200
16
55
Wesleyan Methodists-
Original Connexion,
70
19,951
5S
25
53
19.918
7.322
17,107
8.409
2.669
8,610
Primitive Methodists,
10
1,890
5
5
9
1,250
1.220
1.560
327
404
715
Independent Methodists,
1
600
1
1
1
600
600
600
190
150
ISO
Wesleyan Reformers,
1
1
1
11
11
Glassites or Sandemanians,
6
1.06S
6
6
1
890
890
260
429
554
100
New Church,
5
710
4
3
2
630
310
400
211
67
120
t'ampbellitcs,
1
SO
1
1
SO
SO
11
14
Evangelical Union,
28
10,319
26
IS
17
10,589
7,770
5,239
3.895
4,504
2,171
Isolated Congregations-
Various,
9
2.175
6
2
7
2,000
1.488
919
99
522
Common,
2
360
Unsectarian,
1
320
1
1
320
320
200
220
City Mission,
7
1.365
3
1
6
990
1,562
70
40
686
Christians,
7
1.131
7
1
3
1,131
725
616
417
236
280
Christian Disciples.
15
2,471
14
10
4
2,375
1,713
647
539
530
201
Christian Reformation,
1
50
1
50
11
Reformed Christians,
1
1
1
1
8
8
8
Free Christian Brethren.
1
340
1
1
340
3(0
ISO
261
Primitive Christians,
2
210
o
2
210
210
57
74
Protestants.
4
1.210
2
o
4
760
700
1.210
230
400
935
Reformation.
1
250
1
1
250
250
10
18
Reformed Protestants,
1
725
1
1
725
725
130
105
Separatists,
1
1
11
Christian Chartists,
1
220
1
1
220
520
100
80
Denomination not stated,
6
495
2
6
100
495
70
316
Other Churches:
Roman Catholics.
117
52.766
101
38
26
48.771
22,377
15,439
43.87S
21,032
14,813
Catholic and Apostolic Church
3
675
3
3
1
675
675
300
272
126
190
Latter-day Saints or Mormons,
20
3,182
IS
16
12
3.177
2.302
2,474
1,304
1,225
878
Jews,
1
67
1
1
67
67
28
7
Total.
3.395
1,834,805
2,933
1,816
701
1,689,049
1,122,729
350,396
943,951
619,863
188,874
I INTRODUCTION.
A satisfactory outline of the ecclesiastical history of Scotland would occupy twenty or fifty
times more space than we can spare. Its greatest elements would be critical remark on the
date of the introduction of Christianity to Scotland ; a view — partly given in our article on
Icolmkill — of the character, discipline, and history of the Culdees ; an examination of the rise
and expansion of diocesan episcopacy ; an exhibition of the inroads, methods of conquest,
early condition, successive development, history, institutions, and corruptions of Romanism ;
a careful tracery of the multitudinous events of the Reformation, and of the struggles which
presbyterianism maintained against popery, and against protestant prelacy, till the Revolution ;
and a rapid sketch of the rise and early history of each of the Scottish dissenting sects. Much
of the most interesting parts of each of these elements, excepting the first, will be found
interspersed with the body of our work ; and, wherever it occurs, will be clearly understood
without the aid of connecting links of narrative. Very frequently, however, in connexion
with the monastic class of the Romish institutions, allusions and names occur which, as the
institutions were in some instances peculiar to Scotland, will not be intelligible except with
the aid of some explanatory statements.
The conventual orders, or different bodies of the regular clergy of the Romish church in
Scotland, were very various, and were early introduced. The friars, while they lived in con-
vents, were professedly strolling mendicants ; and, in consequence of their astutely watching
every opportunity of visiting the sick in their clerical character, and sedulously improving it,
in their mendicant capacity, for drawing largesses and bequests from the wealthy, they
amassed an incredible amount of property, and eventually made themselves the envy of the
nobility, who could not cope with them in opulence and influence, — of the secular or paro-
chial clergy, who were ostensibly provided for, and saw the friars superseding them, — and of
the monks, or second great class of the conventual orders, who were forbidden, by most of
their rules, to go out of their monasteries, and could receive only such donations as excessive
fanatics carried to their cells. Yet all the other great classes— which were canons-regular,
monks, nuns, and canons-secular, — made acquisitions of property which were exceedingly and
even monstrously great, in their circumstances, and which appeared moderate only when
compared with those of the friars.
The canons-regular of St. Augustine had 28 monasteries in Scotland, and were first estab-
lished at Scone, in the year 1114, by Atewalpus, prior of St. Oswald of Hostel, in Yorkshire,
and introduced at the desire of Alexander I. — The canons-regular of St. Anthony wore
neither an almuce nor a rochet, both of which were used by the other canons-regular, and
they called their houses hospitals, and their governors preceptors ; but they had in Scotland
only one monastery, noticed in our article on Leith. — The red friars pretended to be canons-
regular, but were denied the title by many of their adversaries ; and they variously bore the
names of Mathurines, from their house at Paris, which was dedicated to St. Mathurine, of
Trinity friars, and of friars 'De Redemptione Captivorum,' from their professing to redeem
Christian captives from the Turks. Their houses were called hospitals or ministries, and their
superiors 'ministri;' their mode of living was similar to that of the canons of St. Victor at
Paris ; their habit was white, with a red and blue cross patee upon their scapular ; and one-third
of their revenue was expended in ransoming captives. They were established by St. John of
Malta, and Felix de Valois ; their first Scottish foundation was erected in Aberdeen, by
William the Lion ; and they had in Scotland 6 monasteries in 1209, and 13 at the Reforma-
tion.— The Premonstratenses had their name from the principal monastery, Premonstratum,
in the diocese of Laon in France ; and were also called Candidus Ordo, because their garb
was entirely white. They followed the rule of St. Augustine, a copy of which they fabled to
have been delivered to them in golden letters by himself ; and were founded by St. Norbert,
an archbishop of Magdeburg, who procured for himself, and his successors in the see, the title
of primate of Germany. Their monasteries in Scotland were six.
The Benedictines, or Black monks, had their names respectively from that of their founder,
and from the colour of their habit. St. Benedict, or Bennet, was born at Nirsi, a town of
Italy, about the year 480, and was the first who brought monachism into estimation in the
west. Five orders who followed his rule liad monasteries in Scotland. — The Black monks of
Fleury had 3 Scottish monasteries ; and took their name and origin from the abbacy of
Fleury la Riviere, on the river Loire, in France. — The Tyronenses, the second order of
Benedictines, had 6 Scottish monasteries ; and took their name from their first abbey, Tyro-
nium, or Tyron, in the diocese of Chartres in France, where they were settled in 1109 under
the auspices of Bstrou, Earl of Perche and Montagne. — The Cluniacences, the third order of
INTRODUCTION.
li
Benedictines, had 4 monasteries in Scotland, and originated with Berno, who began to reform
the Benedictines, or to frame some new constitutions, about the year 940, and who built a new
abbey near Cluny, or Cluniacum, in Burgundy, 4 leagues from Macon. — The Cistertians, or
Bernardines, the fourth order of Benedictines, had their names respectively from their first
house and chief monastery at Cistertium, in Burgundy, and from St. Bernard, one of their earli-
est chief abbots, whose zeal succeeded in founding upwards of 160 monasteries. They originated
in 1098, with Robert, abbot of Molesme, in the diocese of Langres in France ; and were called
White monks in contradistinction to the other orders of Benedictines, and in consequence of
retaining onlv the black cowl and scapular of St. Bennet, and having all the rest of their
habit white. Of thirty provinces into which they were divided, Scotland was one, and it con-
tained 13 of their monasteries. — The monks of Vallis-caulium, Vallis-olerum, or Valdes-cheux,
were established in 1193, by Virard, at the place which gave them name, in the diocese of
Langres, between Dijon and Autun ; they were a professed reform of the Cistertians, and
very austere; and they were introduced to Scotland, in 1230, by Malvoisin, bishop of St.
Andrews, and had here 3 monasteries.
The Carthusian monks were established, in 1086, by Bruno, a doctor of Paris, and a canon
of Rheims, in the wild mountains of Grenoble in France ; they originated professedly in
miracle, and manifestly in excessive superstition, and were characterized by very great aus-
terities; they were introduced to England in 1180, but they had in Scotland only one
monastery, founded near Perth, in 1429, by James I., after his captivity in England. — The
Gilbertines were, in the first instance, all nuns ; but they afterwards had accessions from the
canons-regular, who were domiciled under the same roofs as the nuns, but in separate apart-
ments. Gilbert, their founder, was born in the reign of William the Conqueror, and was the
son of a gentleman of Normandy, and lord of Sempringham and Tynrington in Lincolnshire ;
and he is said to have spent all his substance and patrimony in such acts of charity as were
dictated by his diseased religion, and particularly in converting distressed and poor young
women into nuns of his order. The nuns were bound to observe constant silence in the
cloister ; and they were not admitted to their novitiate till they were 15 years of age, and
could not be professed before having fully on their memory the psalms, hymns, and antiphona
used in the Romish ritual. Though the Gilbertines had 21 houses in England, they had only
one in Scotland, situated on the river Ayr, founded by Walter III., Lord High-steward of
Scotland, and supplied with its nuns and canons from Syxle in Yorkshire.
The Templars, or Red friars, were an order of religious knights, and followed the rule ot
St. Augustine, and the constitution of the canons-regular of Jerusalem. They were estab-
lished at Jerusalem in 1118, by Hugo de Paganis, and Gaufrigus de Sancto Aldemaro; they
professed to defend the temple and city of Jerusalem, to entertain Christian strangers
and pilgrims, and to protect them while in Palestine ; and they received from Baldwin II.,
king of Jerusalem, a residence in the vicinity of the temple, or its site, and thence had their
name of Templars. To a white habit which, in every particular, distinguished their exterior,
Pope Eugenius III. added a red cross of stuff sewed upon their cloaks ; and from this they
were called Red friars. They had enormous possessions, and numbered, throughout Chris-
tendom, upwards of 9,000 houses. In Scotland the}7 had houses, farms, or lands, in almost
every parish ; and, in particular, they possessed very many buildings in Edinburgh and Leith,
and had upwards of 8 capital mansions in the country. They are believed to have been in-
troduced to Scotland by David I. ; those in this country and in England were under the
government of one general prior ; and in common with all the other communities of their order,
they were, in the year 1312, condemned for certain great crimes, by a general council held
at Vienne in France, and were formally suppressed by Pope Clement V.
The Knights of St. John of Jerusalem closely resembled the Templars in professed charac-
ter, and were a sort of noble military monks. Certain merchants of the city of Melphi, in the
kingdom of Naples, who traded to Palestine, built, under permission of the Caliph of Egypt,
a monastery and a church for the reception of Christian pilgrims, and paid the Caliph tribute
for his protection ; and they subsequently added two churches, dedicated respectively to the
Virgin Mary and Mary Magdalene, and used them for the pompously charitable reception,
the one of women, and the other of men. When Jerusalem was taken by Godfrey of Bouil-
lon, Gerard of Martiques, a native of Province in France, built, in 1104, a still larger church,
and an hospital for pilgrims and the sick, and dedicated them to St. John. The soldier-
monks of the original erections were put in possession of these buildings, and took from them
the names of Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, Knights-Hospitallers, and Johannites. After
lii INTRODUCTION.
being expelled from Jerusalem by Saladin, they retired to the fortress of Margat in Phenicia,
and subsequently settled, at successive epochs, at Acre or Ptolemais, and in the islands of
Cyprus, Rhodes, and Malta ; and in the last of these they continued, and from it took the
name of the Knights of Malta, till their power was broken, and the island captured, during
the last European war. They were inveterate and sturdy foemen of the Turks, and figure
largely in the military history of the Ottoman empire. Their members, excepting some
illegitimate sons of kings and princes, were all gentlemen, who proved by charters, or other
authentic documents, their nobility of descent by both father and mother, for four genera-
tions. They took the three ordinary monastic vows, and wore a black habit, with a cross of
gold, which had eight points. Their houses were called preceptories, and the principal officers
in them preceptors. On the suppression of the order of Templars, the Knights of St. John
got many of their Scottish lands and tenements, and, in consequence, are frequently con-
founded with them in Scottish history. Their chief dwelling in Scotland was at Torphichen
in Linlithgowshire. When buildings belonging to them were feued out to seculars, they used
great care that the cross of their order should constantly surmount the houses, in evidence
that the possessors were subject to them, and were amenable only to their courts. The
same practice was previously observed by the Templars ; and it accounts for the great
number of crosses which, till a late date, might have been seen, and which, in some instances,
still exist, on the tops of old buildings in Edinburgh, Leith, and Linlithgow.
The Dominicans, or Black friars, have, for six centuries, been one of the most considerable
of the Romish orders of regular clergy. They are often called Preaching friars, from the
circumstance of their having longer attended to preaching than any of the other orders.
They may preach anywhere without obtaining the permission of the bishops ; they are allowed
to confess all noblemen and ladies without the consent of their curates ; and they everywhere
administer the sacraments, and are exempted from all ecclesiastical censures. Their habit
is a white gown and scapular. Their founder was St. Dominic, the infamous projector or
institutor of the inquisition. This monster devoted himself and his followers to what he
and his fellow-Romanists called the conversion of heretics ; and he preached and conducted
the earliest of the sanguinary crusades against the amiable Waldenses. The order was
divided into 45 provinces; of which Scotland was the 18th, and contained 15 convents.
Though they were professedly mendicants, they were found, at the breaking up of their
Scottish communities, to have amassed in this country a shameful amount of property.
The Franciscans, or Grey friars, also professed mendicants, had their two leading names
from their founder, and from the colour of their habit; and affected to assume the title of Friars
Minors or Minorites, as if deeming themselves the least or meanest of their function. Their
founder was St. Francis of Assize in Italy, a merchant, and a consummately frantic fanatic,
who flourished at the commencement of the 13th century ; and their superiors were called
Custodes or Wardens. They were divided into Conventuals and Observantines ; the latter
of whom were a reform, in 1419, by Bernardine of Sienna, and had their name from profess-
ing, to observe St. Francis' rule more strictly than the Conventuals, by always walking bare-
footed, and not wearing any linen. The Conventuals were introduced to Scotland in 1219,
and had 8 convents in the country. The Observantines were introduced by James I., in a
colony from their vicar-general at Cologne, and had here 9 convents. — The Carmelites, or
White friars, were the third order of wandering mendicants. They absurdly pretend to trace
up their origin to the schools of the prophets in the age of Elijah ; and they have their second
name from the colour of their outer garment, and their first from Mount Carmel in Syria,
which abounds in dens, caves, and other sorts of hiding-holes, and was a favourite retreat
both of some of the earliest anchorites under the Christian dispensation, and of numerous
pilgrims during the period of the crusades. St. Louis, king of France, when returning from
Palestine, brought some of the Mount Carmel ascetics to Europe, and gave them an abode in
the outskirts of Paris. The Carmelites were divided into 32 provinces, of which Scotland
was the 13th ; and they were introduced to this country in the reign of Alexander III., and
had here 9 convents.
The nuns of Scotland were few compared either with the Scottish male regulars, or with
their own proportionate number in other lands. Those who followed the rule of Augustine
had only two convents in this country, the one of Canonesses, and the other of Dominican
nuns. The Benedictine or Black nuns followed the rule of Benedict, were founded by his
sister St. Scholastica, and had in Scotland 5 convents. The Bernardine or Cistertian nuns
likewise followed the rule of St. Benedict, and had 13 convents. The nuns of St. Francis,
INTRODUCTION. liii
or Claressos, were founded by Clara, a lady of Assize in Italy, who received from St. Francis
himself a particular modification of his rule, full of rigour and austerity ; and they had in
Scotland only two houses.
The Secular canons, or conventual bodies of the secular clergy, formed communities which
were called Prsepositura;, or Collegiate churches, and were governed by a dean or provost.
Each collegiate church was instituted for performing religious service, and singing masses for
the souls of the founder and patrons, or their friends ; it was fitted up with several degrees
or stalls which the officiates occupied for an orderly or systematic singing of the canonical
hours ; it had for its chapter the governing dean or provost and the other canons, who bore
the name of prebendaries ; and, in general, it was erected either by the union and concen-
tration in it of several parish churches, or by the union and concentration of several cha-
plainries instituted under one roof. The number of Collegiate churches in Scotland was 33.
— Hospitals, for receiving strangers and travellers, or for maintaining the poor and the infirm,
were the lowest order of ecclesiastical establishments, and had the accompaniment of a church
or chapel. Keith gives a list of 28 which existed in Scotland ; but says he is convinced the
list might be vastly augmented.
ANTIQUITIES.
The number and variety of Druidical remains in Scotland are very great ; and they abound
most in the recesses of Perthshire among the spurs of the Grampians, indicating these deep
seclusions to have been the principal Scottish seat of the aboriginal superstition. Druidical
altars are of two sorts, — flat stones, which are either upright or recumbent, — and cromlechs,
which consisted each of several stones usually placed upon their respective edges, and always
supporting a large broad stone, so as to possess, jointly with it, a rude resemblance to a
massive modern table ; and the altars of both sorts are numerous, and, for the most part, are
connected with Druidical circles, or other Druidical works, — though the cromlechs occasion-
ally appear in some deep solitude without any accompaniment. Druidical cairns differ from
the better known sepulchral cairns, and may be distinguished from them by their connexion
with other Druidical works, by their being usually fenced round the base with a circle of
stones, by their being approached along an avenue of upright stones, and by their having
each on its summit a large flat stone, on which the Druid fires were lighted. Rocking stones,
which are huge blocks so poised as to be easily moved, or made to oscillate, and which excite
the wonder of the vulgar, and have provoked controversies among the learned, are, in some
instances, supposed to be natural curiosities, but on the whole are generally allowed — whether
of natural or of artificial origin — -to have been made the tools of the degenerate Druidical
priesthood, for imposing on the savage and the superstitious ; and though not numerous,
they occur with sufficient frequency to occupy a commanding place among the country's
earliest antiquities. Druidical circles have, to a very great amount, been removed, since the
epoch of georgical improvement, to make way for the plough ; yet they continue to exist in
such wondrous plenty, and such great variety, as to render continued notices of them, in ac-
counts of parishes, monotonous and tiresome.
Sepulchral remains of the earliest inhabitants of Scotland, though they have to an enormous
amount been swept away by the same cause which has thinned the Druidical circles, are still
very numerously traceable in almost every part of both the continent and the islands, and
may be considered under the several distinctions of barrows, cairns, cistvaens, and urns, — the
two former constituting tumuli, and the two latter their most remarkable contents. The
tumuli, in most instances, are circular heaps, resembling flat cones ; and, in many instances,
are oblong ridges, resembling the upturned or inverted hull of a ship. Most of them are com-
posed of stones ; many of a mixture of stones and earth ; some wholly of earth ; and a few
wholly or chiefly of sand. Cairns and barrows are mutually distinguished by the former
being of stones and the latter of earth; and both, when they are conical and covered with
green sward, are vulgarly called hillocks. The tumuli are of uniform general character in all
parts of Scotland and in England, the cairn prevailing in the northern division of the island,
and the barrow in the southern, owing simply, as would seem, to the respective abundance
on the surface of the countries of lapidose and of earthy substances; and, in the very numer-
ous instances in which they have been opened and explored, they have been found to contain
the ashes, the hair, or the bones, of human bodies, either nakedly interred, or carefully shut
up in cistvaens and urns. The cistvaen, in strict accordance with the meaning of the word
fiv INTRODUCTION.
in the British language, is a stone chest ; it is very various in size, and even diversified in
form ; it contains, for the most part, ashes and bones, and occasionally an urn ; and it verv
generally, among both the vulgar and the learned, bears the name of a stone-coffin. Urns
are found generally in tumuli unenclosed in cistvaens, but occur also beneath the surface of
level ground ; they are composed usually of pottery, and sometimes of stones ; they are of
different shapes and sizes ; and, according to the taste of the times or the ability of the
parties concerned with them, are variously ornamented. — An occasional connexion, dictated
apparently by policy, exists between the sepulchral tumuli and the Druidical circles ; and a
connexion, both more frequent and more natural, exists between these tumuli and the British
strengths.
Akin to the simple and more common and plenteous sepulchral tumuli, are some large
sepulchral cairns, which denote the fields of ancient conflicts. Besides being of comparatively
large bulk, and having a comparative multiplicity of contents, these cairns are characterized
by the vicinity of fragments of swords, of bows, and of flint-pointed arrows ; they have, on
the whole, thrown a faint light on the remote martial history of Scotland ; and by the plu-
rality of their occurrences among the bases of the mountain-rampart of the Highlands, they
have contributed, along with some cognate antiquities, to evoke much controversy on the
questio vexata as to the scene of the celebrated battle of the Grampians. Some of these
cairns, which still remain, are called Cat-stanes ; and the same name — which seems plainly to
be derived from the British Cad, or the Scoto-Irish Cath, ' a battle ' — is applied, in various
instances, to single stones. — Numerous stones of memorial, or rude pillars, apparently very
ancient, and raised by the same people as the Cat-stanes, exist in every district, and, in allu-
sion to their upright position, are traditionally called standing-stones ; they are in their
natural state, without the mark of any tool, and, of course, are very various in form ; they
frequently appear single, and frequently, also, in groups of two, three, four, and even a greater
number ; and in general, from their wanting inscriptions and sculpturings, they have failed to
transmit the events which they were reared to commemorate. Another class of standing-
stones are of a later date, and are of two species, — the one triumphal, and set up to commem
orate some happy national event, such as a victory over the Danes ; the other Bomishly monu-
mental, and erected with the double design of noting the scene of a disaster, and of bespeaking
the prayers of passengers for the souls of persons who, in the course of the disaster, were slain
or otherwise perished. Both kinds have sculptured on them the figure of a cross, with vari-
ous knots of grotesque scroll-work, vulgarly denominated Danish-Tangles ; and, in some
instances, they are charged with a kind of hieroglyphics.
•British strengths, consisting of circular and oval hill-forts, and other safeguards, are sur-
prisingly numerous. Their situation in reference to the districts they command, their mutual
or relative positions, and the accommodations attached to them, all indicate that they were
constructed rather for the purpose of protection against the attacks of neighbouring and con-
sanguineous tribes, than for that of repelling or checking an invading enemy. They occupy
eminences in districts which, even in the earliest ages of Scottish population, must have been
the most habitable and fructiferous ; they frequently appear in compact or contiguous groups
of three, four, and even a larger number ; and they are so disposed in their groupings, that a
view of all is obtained from the site of each, and that a larger and stronger one commands the
rest from the centre, and seems to have been the distinguished post of the chief. The larger
strengths were in many instances converted, at the Roman invasion, into Roman posts ; and
the groups are often chequered with Roman camps, which seem to have been constructed in
astute perception of the nature of the ground, with the evident purpose of watching and over-
awing them. The forts are exceedingly various in area, strength, and details of construction ;
but, in general, they consist of an interior central building, one, two, or three concentric
ramparts, and one or two exterior ditches. Two ranges of small forts, each, in general,
perched on the summit of a dome-like hill, or conical rising ground, extend along the north
side of Antoninus' wall, — the one between the friths of Forth and Clyde, and the other along
the face of the country on the north bank of the Forth ; both, in the case of each of their
forts, bear the name of Keir, evidently a corruption of the British Caer, ' a fort ; ' and they
appear, from local and comparative circumstances, as well as from an intimation by Tacitus,
to have been the only Caledonian posts erected with the design of opposing the Roman pro-
gress. The ramparts of all the British forts were composed of dry stones and earth, with-
out any appearance of mortar or cement ; and they varied in outline, from the circular
or oval, to the wavingly irregular, according to the figure of the hills whose summits they
INTRODUCTION. lv
crowned. Connected with some of the forts, were outworks on the declivity of the hills
below, which were probably designed to shelter the cattle belonging to the defenders of
the fort.
Subterranean safeguards, or hiding-holes, have been discovered in many parts of Scotland,
and seem, in most instances, to have been constructed, or improved and adopted, by the pris-
tine people during a rude age. A few of them are entirely artificial ; consisting of one, two,
or three apartments of various dimensions, but generally very small ; constructed entirely
underground of large rude stones, without any cement ; and containing, in most cases, une-
quivocal relics of having been human abodes. Natural caves, which abound on the rooky
coasts, and among the cliffy dells and ravines of Scotland, have very numerously been im-
proved by artificial means into places of great strength : and, in some instances, they are of
large capacity, and retain distinct vestiges of enlargement, or modelling within, and especially
of fortification by various contrivances without. Other caves, chiefly of small capacity, and
in very sequestered situations, are replete with interest as the known or reputed hiding-holes
of the patriotic Scots during the Baliol usurpation, and especially of the devoted Covenanters
during the Stuart persecution.
Scottish antiquities of Roman origin are so well known and understood, and, in all their
great instances, are so fully described in the body of our work, that they require no particu-
lar illustration. Any separate and consecutive notice of them which could throw light on
their interesting features, would be a sketch — necessarily too expansive for our available space
— of the history and the scenes of Agricola's campaigns, and of the actions of Lucius Urbicus.
The chief of them are Antoninus' wall, separately noticed in the alphabetical arrangement ;
roads or causeways, which intersected the whole territory south of Antoninus' wall and ran
up in decreasing ramifications to the Mora)' frith, and are noticed in our articles on counties
and districts ; and quadrangular camps, fortified stations, bridges, and innumerable minor
antiquities, profusely noticed in probably two-thirds of all the considerable articles in our
work. — Pictish antiquities are curious rather for their obscureness and singularity, than for
either their number or their imposing character. The principal are uncemented conical towers,
vulgarly called Piets' houses, and vitrified forts, similar in form to the hill-forts of the Bri-
tons. A species of building, attributed, though doubtfully, to the Picts, is very common in
Ireland, but exhibits only two specimens in Scotland, respectively at Abernethy and at Brechin.
This is a tall, slender, cylindrical tower, coned at the top, very curious as a piece of architec-
ture, but the subject of mazy and manifold disputations as to its designed use.
Inaugural stones are a class of monuments intimately associated with the most distinguished
archaeology of the Scoto-Irish and the Irish, and were used in the inauguration of the chief-
tains of the Irish clans. The chief Scottish antiquity of this class is the famous coronation-
stone, now in Westminster, but anciently located successively at Dunstaffhage and at Scone,
and noticed in our article on the former of these places.— Earthen works, additional to the
barrows of the Britons, are a miscellaneous class of antiquities, and of various date and
origin. Small circular retrenchments are not infrequent, and are supposed to be Danish forts.
Elongated, flattened mounds, occur in a few instances, bear the name of Bow-butts, and are
believed to have been constructed and used for the exercise of archery. Moats, or large
artificial moundish hillocks, platformed on the summit, and ascending at a regular gradient on
the sides, were places for the administration, over considerable districts, of public justice ; and
court-hills, not very dissimilar to them in appearance, were the sites of the baronial courts
previous to the demolition of the feudal system. Both are very common in Scotland ; and
sometimes, or even very generally — according to the belief, at least, of local antiquaries- — the
characters and uses of the two are concentrated in one object, — the same mound beinsr both
moat and court-hill. " These moat and court-hills," says Grose, " serve to explain the
use of those high mounts still remaining near our ancient castles, which were probably
judgment-seats, but have been mistaken for military works, a sort of ancient cavaliers, raised
to command the moveable towers, so commonly used for the attacks of fortresses. I, among
others, for want of having seen and considered these moat and court-hills, was led to adopt
that idea."
The ecclesiastical antiquities of Scotland consist of monasteries, collegiate churches, and a
few chapels, parish churches, and hospitals ; and appear all to be of not higher date than the
12th century. The religious buildings of the Culdees seem, for a considerable time, at least,
to have been plain, fragile, and of very primitive workmanship ; and even toward the close of
the Culdee epoch, they probably were, in no instance, of a kind either to resist the influences
M -" INTRODUCTION.
of time by their durability, or to woo the cares of the conservator by their architectural
attractions. Our ecclesiastical antiquities are, in consequence, all Romish ; and considered
as works of art and magnificence, they are by no means inferior in point of execution to those
of England. The most exquisite specimens are the abbeys of Melrose, Kelso, and Jedburgh,
and the church of Elgin ; specimens of great beauty are the abbeys of Dunfermline and
Paisley; very handsome specimens are the abbeys of Dundrennan and Newabbey ; the grand-
est specimens — those which best combine architecture with amplitude — are the abbeys of
Holyrood and Arbroath ; and the specimens in the highest state of repair are the cathedral
of St. Mungo in Glasgow, the church of St. Magnus in Kirkwall, and the church of St.
Giles in Edinburgh. Each of these, as well as of every other, whether extant or extinct,
which presents in landscape or in history any feature of interest, our work fully notices and
describes in its appropriate place.
The ancient border-houses, fortalices, and castles of Scotland, though small, seem to have
been very numerous. Major says there were two in every league. Most of them are re-
markably similar to one another ; in general each is a high square tower, surmounting a
beetling rock or other abrupt eminence; and many of them overhanging some stream or the
sea. The towers are, for the most part, extremely strong, often from 13 to 15 feet thick in
the walls ; and they rise in height to 3 or 4 stories, each story vaulted, and the whole covered
with a vaulted roof. At every angle, re-entering as well as salient, is a turret, supported
like the guerites at the salient angles of modern bastions ; at each end of the tower, adjoining
the roof, is commonly a triangular gable, the sides diminishing by a series of steps called
crow steps ; and near the top of the tower usually runs a cornice of brackets, like those which
support machicollations. At the bottom of most of the towers was the prison or pit, a deep,
dark, noisome dungeon, to which the miserable prisoners were let down by ropes ; and an
iron door to the chief entrance to the tower was also no infrequent means of security. In
some instances, a tower was double, — two being built together at right angles with each other,
constituting a figure somewhat like that of the letter L or T, and forming a kind of mutual
defence or partial flank. As luxury and security increased, both these towers, and the single
or more common one, were enlarged with additional buildings for lodgings, frequently sur-
rounded by walls, and in some instances, as in those of Linlithgow-palace and Loudoun-
castle, eventually made the mere nucleus of modern, magnificent, princely mansions. The
old towers were often the abodes of an almost incredibly large number of inmates; and as
they were sparingly lighted through very small windows, they must have been as gloomy as
unwholesome. When any of them were taken by an enemy, they were usually burned ; but
as they were little else than mere masses of stone, they suffered no damage except a little
besooting or singeing ; and, immediately afterwards, undergoing repair, and receiving a
boastful though rude emblazonry of their owners' arms, and the date of their own disaster
and renovation, they, in some instances, exhibit to the eye a curious tracery and surprising
profusion of inscriptions, armorial bearings, and miscellaneous devices.
EARLY HISTORY.
The aborigines of Scotland seem, beyond any reasonable doubt, to have been clans of the
same Gaelic origin as those who, in the most early ages, settled in England. Scotland, at
the epoch of Agricola's invasion, may be viewed as a mirror which reflects back the condition
of England at the earlier era when Julius Cassar introduced the Roman arms to Britain, and
also that of Gaul at the still remoter period when Roman ambition subdued the common
parent of the British nations. Caledonia, in its largest extent, from the Tweed and the
Eden on the south, to Dunnet-head in Caithness on the north, was distributed among twenty-
one tribes of Britons. Those on the east coast, or Lowlands, owing to the greater fertility
of the soil, must have been more numerous and potent than those of the western or Highland
districts ; and all, accordantly with ancient Celtic usage, were mutually independent, and
could be brought into union or co-operation only by the pressure of danger.
The Ottadini — whose name seems to have been derived from the Tyne or Tina — occupied
the whole coast-district between the southern Tyne and the frith of Forth, comprehending
the half of Northumberland, the whole of Berwickshire and East-Lothian, and the eastern
part of Roxburghshire ; and had their chief town at Bremenium, on Reed-water, in North-
umberland. The Gadeni — whose name alludes to the numerous groves which adorned and
fortified their territory — inhabited the interior country immediately west of that of the
INTRODUCTION. lvii
Ottadini, comprehending the western part of Northumberland, a small part of Cumberland,
the western part of Roxburgh, all Selkirk and Tweeddale, much of Mid-Lothian, and nearly
all West-Lothian ; and they had Curia, on Gore-water, for their capital. The Selgovse — ■
whose country lay upon " a dividing water," and who gave name to the Sol way — inhabited
the whole of Dumfries-shire, and the eastern part of Galloway, as far as the Dee ; and had,
as their chief towns, Trimontium at Brunswark-hill in Annandale, Uxellum at Wardlaw-hill
in Caerlaveroek, and Caerbantorigum at Drummore, in the parish of Kirkcudbright. The
Novantes — who are supposed to have taken their name from the abundance of streams in
their country- — possessed all central and western Galloway, between the Dee and the Irish
sea ; and had, as their principal towns, Lucopibia on the site of the present Whithorn, and
Rerigonium on the north shore of Loch-Ryan. The Damnii inhabited all the expanse of
country from the mountain- ridge which divides Galloway and Ayrshire on the south, to the
river Earn on the north, comprehending all the shires of Ayr, Renfrew, and Stirling, all
Strathelyde, and a small part of the shires of Dumbarton and Perth ; and had the towns of
Vanduaria on the site of Paisley, Colania in the south-eastern extremity of Strathelyde, Coria
in Carstairs, Alauna on the river Allan, Lindun near the present Ardoch, and Victoria on
Ruchil-water in Comrie. The Horestii inhabited the country between the Forth and the
Tay, comprehending all Fife, Kinross, and Clackmannan, the eastern part of Strathearn, and
the district west of the upper Tay, as far as the river Brand. The Venricones possessed the
territory between the Tay and the Kincardineshire Carron, comprehending the Gowrie, Stor-
mont, Strathmore, and Strathardle, sections of Perthshire, all Forfarshire, and the larger part
of Kincardineshire; and had their chief town, Or or Orrea, on the margin of the Tay. The
Taixali inhabited the northern part of Kincardineshire, and all Aberdeenshire to the Deveron ;
and had Devana, at the present Normandykes on the Dee, for their capital. The Vacomagi
possessed the country between the Deveron and the Beauly, comprehending Braemar, nearly
all Banffshire, the whole of Elginshire and Nairnshire, and the eastern part of Inverness-shire;
and had the towns of Ptoroton or Alata Castra at the mouth of the Beauly, Tuessis on the
east bank of the Spey, and Tamea and Banatia in the interior.
The Albani — whose name seems to allude to the height and ruggedness of their mountains,
and who, in consequence of their becoming subjugated by the Damnii, were afterwards called
Damnii-Albani — inhabited the interior districts between the southern mountain screen of the
loch and river Tay, and the mountain- chain along the southern limit of Inverness-shire, com-
prehending Breadalbane, Athole, Appin, Glenorchy, and a small part of Lochaber. The
Attacotti possessed the country between Loch-Fyne and the commencement of the Lennox
or Kilpatrick hills, comprehending Cowal and the greater part of Dumbartonshire. The
Caledonii Proper inhabited the interior country between the mountain range along the north
of Perthshire, and the range of hills which forms the forest of Balnagowan in Ross, compre-
hending all the middle parts of Ross and Inverness. A vast forest, which extended north-
ward of the Forth and the Clyde, and which covered all the territory of this tribe, gave to
them their name, originally Celyddoni and Celyddoniaid, ' the people of the coverts,' and,
owing to the greatness of the area which it occupied, occasioned its Romanized designation
of Caledonia to be afterwards applied strictly to all the country north of the Forth and the
Clyde, and loosely, but at a later date, to the whole kingdom. The Cantae — so named from
the British Caint, which signifies an open country — possessed Easter Ross and Cromarty, or the
district lying between the Beauly and the Dornoch friths. The Logi — who probably drew
their name from the British Lygi, a word which was naturally applied to the inhabitants of a
sea-coast — possessed the eastern part of Sutherland, or the country between the Dornoch frith
and the river Helmsdale. The Carnabii, who, like a cognominal tribe in Cornwall, derived
their name from their residence on remarkable promontories, occupied the country north of
the Helmsdale, or a small part of Sutherland, and all Caithness, except the north-west corner.
The Catini, a small but warlike tribe, from whom the Gaelic inhabitants of Caithness and
Sutherland at the present day are ambitious of proving their remote descent, inhabited the
narrow territory, partly in Caithness and partly in Sutherland, between the Forse and the
Naver. The Mertse possessed the interior of Sutherland. The Carnonacse possessed the north
and west coast of Sutherland, and the west coast of Cromarty, from the Naver round to
Loch-Broom. The Creones — whose name was expressive of their fierceness — possessed the
coast between Loch-Broom and Loch-Duich. The Cerones inhabited the whole west coast
of Inverness, and the Argyleshire districts of Ardnamurehan, Morven, Sunart, and Ardgower,
or the coast between Loeh-Duich and Loch-Linnhe. The Epidii — who derived their appel-
lviii INTRODUCTION.
lation from the British Ebyd, ' a peninsula,' and from whom the Mull of Kintyre anciently
had the name of the Epidian promontory — occupied the whole country enclosed by Loch-
Linnhe, the territory of the Albani, Loch-Fyne, the lower frith of Clyde, the Irish sea, and
the Atlantic ocean.
The Caledonian tribes, at the epoch when history introduces them to notice, appear to have
been little raised, in their social connexions, above the condition of rude savages, who live on
the milk of their flocks or the produce of the chase. According to the doubtful and darkly-
tinted intimations of Dio, indeed, they possessed wives and reared their children in common,
they lived in the most miserable hovels, they chose to live in a state of almost entire nudity,
and they practised, like the heroes of more ancient times, a system of mutual plunder and
professional robbery. Herodian concurs in exhibiting them in these sombre and repulsive
hues at even so late a period as the 3d century. Yet, according to all testimony, they were
brave, alert, and acquainted with various arts ; they had remarkable capacity for enduring
fatigue, cold, and famine ; they were famous alike for speed in conducting an onset, and for
firmness in sustaining an attack. Their vast stone monuments, too, which still remain, their
hill-forts of such ingenious and elaborate construction as could not even now be taken by
storm, and the gallant stand which they systematically opposed to the disciplined valour of
l»ie Roman armies, exhibit them in lights quite incompatible with an alleged state of unmiti-
gated barbarism. But though advanced in civilization very little beyond the first stage, they
had scarcely any political union. They are said by Dio to have been literal democrats, act-
ing as clans, and adopting any public measure only by common consent, and by an universally
and equally diffused authority ; but they may be allowed, on the one hand, to have rejected
the coercion of any chieftainship or autocracy or monarchic power, and, on the other, to have
placed themselves, like the American Indians, under the aristocratic sway of their old men.
Their armouries were generally furnished with helmets, shields, and chariots, and with spears,
daggers, swords, battle-axes, and bows. The chiefs in command, or in bravery, alone used
the helmet and the chariot ; and the common men fought always on foot, with shields for
defence, and with all sorts of the offensive weapons for attack. Their chariots were some-
times aggregated for making a vehicular onslaught, and were drawn by horses which are said
to have been small, swift, and spirited. Their vessels for navigating the inland lakes, and
even the seas which surround and so singularly indent the country, consisted only of canoes
and currachs. The canoe seems to have belonged to a period preceding the epoch of record ;
it was the stock of a single tree, hollowed out with fire, and put into motion by a paddle ;
and it has frequently been found in marshes and drained lakes, and occasionally of a construc-
tion remarkably skilful and polished. The currach was certainly in use among ihe Britons of
the south, and very probably was in use also among the Britons of Caledonia, in the days of
Julius Caesar ; and is described by him as having its body of wicker-work covered with
leather, and as accommodated with a keel, and with masts of the lightest wood. The
currachs are even called little ships ; they were pushed boldly out into the far-spreading sea ;
and were frequently, or rather currently, employed in invasions from the wooded north or
' the Emerald Isle ' upon the shore3 which became seized and fortified by the Romans.
Adamnan, in his Life of St. Columba, describes the currach which that apostle of Scotland
employed in his voyages, as possessing all the parts of a ship, with sails and oars, and
with a capacity for passengers ; and he adds, that in this roomy though seemingly fragile
vessel, he sailed into the North sea, and, during fourteen days, remained there in perfect
safety.
In the year 78, Agricola, at the age of 38, commenced his skilful military career in Britain.
His first and second campaigns were employed in subduing and Romanizing Lancashire, and
the territory adjacent to it on the south and the east. His third campaign, conducted in the
year 80, carried the Roman arms to the Taw, ' an expanded water,' ' an estuary,' probably
the Solway frith. In his fourth campaign, or that of 81, he overran all the eastern and
central lowlands, to the Forth and the Clyde. In his fifth, or in 82, he invaded " that part
of Britain which is opposite to Ireland," or lower Nithsdale and the whole extent of Gallo-
way. In the summer of 83, he crossed the Forth at what is now called Queensferry, and
almost immediately experienced alarms from learning both that the tribes in his rear had
dared to act offensively, by attacking the strengths he had erected for protection of his con-
quests, and that the tribes in his front menaced him with confederation and a vigorous re-
sistance ; but he pushed forward among the Horestii, found the clans for the first time in
mutual co-operation, was assailed by them at Loch Orr in Fife, in the very gates of his camp,
INTRODUCTION. lis
lepelled and broke them after a furious engagement, and, without much further trouble,
brought all the Horestii under his yoke. In 84, he passed up Glendevon, through the open-
ing of the Oehil-hills, and defiling toward " Mons Grampus," or the Grampian hill, which he
saw before him, ho found the Caledonians, to the number of 30,000, confederated, and under
the command of Galgacus, already encamped at its base ; and he there fought with them a
battle so obstinate that only night forced it to a termination, so discouraging to the aborigines
that they retired to the most distant recesses of their impervious country, and so curious in
archaeology as to have occasioned a thousand disputes, and no small expenditure of learning
and research, in attempts to fix its precise theatre. The Lowlands south of the lower Tay,
and the Earn, being now all in his possession, and a powerful body of the tribes of the con-
quered district enrolled with him as auxiliaries, a voyage of discovery and of intimidation was
ordered by him round the island, and was achieved by the safe return of the Roman fleet to
the Forth. Agricola was now recalled, through the envy of the Emperor Domitian ; and the
silence of history during the 35 years which followed, at once intimates the absence of any
events of interest, and evinces the power of Agricola's victories as a general, and the wisdom
of his measures as a statesman.
In 120, the Emperor Adrian built the celebrated wall between the Tyne and the Solway ;
and, though he did not relinquish the conquered territory north of these waters, he practically
acknowledged himself to hold it by a partial and comparatively insecure tenure. The Ottadi-
ni, the Gadeni, the Selgovse, and the Novantes, had neither domestic tumult nor devastation
from invaders to engage their attention ; they had learned the arts of confederation, and
were strong in numbers and in union ; they began to feel neither overawed nor restrained
by the Roman stations which were continued in their territory ; and they broke out into in-
surrections, and ran southward in ravaging incursions, which the Romans had not leisure to
chastise, or even effectually to check. In 139, the year after Antoninus Pius assumed the
purple, Lollius Urbicus was deputed as the propraetor of Britain, to quell a general revolt,
and reduce the inhabitants to obedience ; and, in 140, he marched northward to the friths,
tranquillized the tribes beyond them, and even began successfully to bring under the power
of his arms the whole Lowland eountiy northward, as far as the Beauly frith. With the
view of overawing the tribes to the south, as well as of repelling the wild clans who ranged
among the mountain-fastnesses on the north, he constructed the great work, from Carriden on
the Forth to Dunglass on the Clyde, which is described in our alphabetical arrangement
under the title Antoninus' Wall. Iters, or highways, were carried in many ramifications
through the country south of the wall, and in several lines along or athwart the conquereu
country to the north ; and stations were established in multitudinous commanding positions,
for garrisoning the Roman forces, and maintaining the natives under a continual pressure
Scotland was now divided into three great sections, — the district south of Antoninus' wall,
which was incorporated with the Roman government of South Britain,. — the Lowland
country, between Antoninus' wall and the Beauly frith, which is said to have been now
erected into a Roman province, under the name of Vespasiana, — and nearly all the High-
land district, north of Loch-Fyne, or the most northerly indentation of the Clyde, which
still retained its pristine state of independence, and began to wear distinctly the name of
Caledonia.
The tranquillity of the subjugated tribes, till the death of Antoninus, in 161, about which
time probably Lollius Urbicus ceased to be propraetor, sufficiently indicates the vigour of the
administration throughout all the Roman territory. Disturbances which broke out immedi-
ately on the accession of Marcus Aurelius to the empire, were speedily quelled by Calphurni-
us Agricola, the successor of Lollius Urbicus ; yet they were followed by the evacuation, on
the part of the Romans, of the whole province of Vespasiana. The tribes beyond Antoninus'
wall, thrown back into a state of independence, slowly nursed their energies for invasion,—-
made, in 183, predatory incursions beyond the wall, — regularly, toward the close of the
century, overran the Roman territory, — entered, in 200, into a treaty with the Lieutenant of
Severus, — and, in 207, renewed their hostilities, and provoked the emperor to attempt a re-
conquest of their country. Early in 209, Severus, after making imposing preparations,
marched at the head of a vast force into North Britain, found no obstruction south of Anto-
ninus' wall, and even penetrated into the territories of the Caledonians without encountering
much resistance. The tribes, unable to oppose him, sued peace from his clemency, surren-
dered some of their arms, and relinquished part of their country. He is said to have felled
woods, drained marshes, constructed roads, and built bridges, in order to seize them in their
lx INTRODUCTION.
fastnesses, — to have lost 50,000 men in destroying forests, and attempting to subdue the
physical difficulties of the country, — to have subjected his army to such incredible toils as
were sufficient to have brought a still greater number of them to the grave without feeling
the stroke of an enemy. Caracalla, his son and successor, is supposed by some to have faintly,
while Severus lived, followed up his policy, and to have fought with the Caledonians on the
banks of the Carron ; but early in 211, after Severus' decease, he relinquished to them the
territories which they had surrendered to his father, secured to them by treaty independent
possession of all the country beyond the wall, and took hostages from them for their conserva-
tion of the international peace.
The Caledonians, henceforth for nearly a century, cease to mingle in Roman story. They
appear not to have interested themselves in the affairs of the Romanized Britons ; and they
were little affected by the elevation of Ca3sars or the fall of tyrants, by Carausius' usurpation
of Romanic Britain, or by its recovery at his assassination as a province of the empire. But
the five Romanized tribes south of the northern wall, though too inconsiderable to figure as
a part of the Roman world, and for a time too poor and abject to draw the notice of their
own quondam brethren, eventually became sufficiently Romanized, and carried onward in
social improvement, and surrounded with the results of incipient civilization and industry, to
be objects of envy to the poorer and more barbarous clans who retained their indepen-
dence. In 306, the earliest date at which the Picts are mentioned, or any native names than
those of the aboriginal British tribes are introduced, "the Caledonians and other Picts," after
appearing to have made frequent predatory irruptions, and to have been menacing the south
with a general invasion, provoked a chastisement from the Roman legionaries, and were com-
pelled by Constantius, at the head of an army, to burrow anew behind the vast natural ram-
part of their Highland territory. In 343, the Picts are said, on doubtful authority, to have
made another inroad, and to have been repelled by a short campaign of the Emperor Constans.
In 364, the Picts, who in that age were divided into two tribes by the names of Dicaledones
and Yecturiones, — the Attacotti, who still retained their ancient British name and position
on the shores of Dumbarton, — and the Scots, who are first noticed in history in 360, who
were a transmarine and erratic people from Ireland, and who appear to have made frequent
predatory invasions of the Roman territories from the sea, and to have formed forced settle-
ments on the coast, — all three simultaneously made an incursion more general and destructive
than any which had yet defied the Roman arms in Britain. Theodosius was sent, in 367,
into Britain, to restore tranquillity, and is said, though erroneously, to have found the Picts
and the Scots in the act of plundering Augusta, the predecessor-city of the modern London.
In two campaigns of 368 and 369, he drove the invaders, wherever he really found them,
back to the northern mountains, repaired the wall of Antoninus, and erected the country
lying between that wall and the southern one into a Roman province, under the name of
Valentia, additional to four which already existed in South Britain.
The Picts and the Scots, forgetting, in the effluxion of a quarter of a century the punish-
ment inflicted on them, and emboldened by the peril with which the empire was menaced by
the continental hordes, again in 398, burst forth like a torrent upon Lowland Britain ; but,
by the energy of Stilicho, the Roman general, they were again stemmed, driven back, and
flung behind another renovation of the great northern wall. But early next century they
trod down every barrier, and began a system of incessant and harassing incursion, which
amounted, on each occasion, to little or nothing less than temporary conquest. In 408, the
British provincials were so awed and alarmed by them, that they assumed a sort of indepen-
dence in self-defence, called earnestly to Rome for help, and were told by their masters to rulf
and defend themselves. In 422, aided by a legion which was sent in compliance with a re-
newed and wailing cry for assistance, they are said to have repelled the invaders, to have
repaired, for the last time, the fortifications by which the Picts had been overawed, and to
have, in consequence, won a respite of some years from the disasters of invasion. And, in
446, pressed anew by the Pictish foe, and abjectly acknowledging themselves for the first
time to be Roman citizens, they made a vain appeal to their ruined masters for protection,
and were despondingly told that Rome could no longer claim them as her subjects, or render
them assistance as her citizens.
At the period of the Roman abdication, the sixteen tribes who ranged unsubdued beyond
the wall of Antoninus, and then bore the denomination of the Picts, were the only genuine
descendants in North Britain of the Caledonian clans. They acquired, from their independence,
paramount inportance, when the country ceased to be overawed by the Roman power ; and
INTRODUCTION, lxi
during the four succeeding centuries of the North-British annals, they figured as the dominat-
ing nation. The five Romanized tribes of Valentia, who had long enjoyed the privilege of
Roman citizenship, speedily assumed independence, and organized for themselves a separate
and national government. Early after the Roman abdication, the Angles, or Anglo-Saxons,
on the one hand, settled on the Tweed, and began gradually to oblige the Ottadini to re-
linquish for ever their beautiful domains; and the Scots from Ireland, on the other, colonized
Argyle, commenced to spread themselves over all the circumjacent districts, and entered a
course of tilting with the Pictish government, which after the bloody struggles of 340 years,
ended in its destruction. The history of all these four parties, between the years 446 and
S43, belongs to what, with reference to the power which predominated, may distinctly and
appropriately be called the Pictish period, and is briefly sketched in our article Pictavia.
The fate of the eastern ones of the five Romanized tribes of the province of Valentia after
the Roman abdication, differed widely from that of those in the west. The Ottadini and the
Gadeni, left in possession of the country from the Forth to the Tweed, and between the
sea and the midland mountains, seem not to have erected themselves into an independent
and dominant community, but to have resumed the habits and the policy of the early British
clans ; and when they saw their country early invaded by the Anglo-Saxons, more as settlers
than as plunderers, they, with some bravery, but with little skill and less concert, made re-
sistance when attacked, till, through disunion, ebriet}', and unmilitary conduct, they speedily
became subdued and utterly dispersed. The Selgovse, the Novantes and the Damnii, with
the fugitive children of the other two tribes, erected their paternal territories into a compact
and regular dominion, appropriately called Cumbria, or Regnum Cambrensi, or Cumbrensi.
This Cumbrian kingdom extended from the Irthing, the Eden, and the Solway, on the south, to
the upper Forth and Loch-Lomond on the north, and from the Irish sea and the frith of Clyde,
eastward to the limits of the Merse and Lothian ; and, with the usual inaccuracy of the
Middle ages, it was frequently and almost currently made to bear the name of the kingdom
of Strathcluyd or Strathclyde. Its metropolis was Alcluyd or Aldehyde, ' the rocky height
on the Clyde,' to which the Scoto-Irish subsequently gave the name of Dun-Briton, ' the for-
tress of the Britons,' a name easily recognisable in the modernized word Dumbarton. On
the south-east, where the open country of Teviotdale invited easy ingress from the Merse,
the kingdom suffered speedy encroachments from the Saxons; and, along that quarter, though
inland from the original frontier, and screened interiorly by a vast natural rampart of moun-
tain-range, an artificial safeguard, called the Catrail, ' the partition of defence,' was con-
structed : see article Catrail.
From 508 to 542, Cumbria, or Strathclyde, acknowledged the authority and exulted in
the fame of some extraordinary original, who figures as the redoubtable King Arthur of
romance, who imposed the name of Castrum Arthuri, upon Alcluyd, or Dumbarton, and has
bequeathed a tenfold greater number of enduring names to Scottish topographical nomencla-
ture than any other ancient prince, and who, whatever may have been the real facts of his
history, seems to have achieved many feats, to have received a treacherous death-wound on
the field of battle, and to have altogether bewildered by his character and fate the rude
romancing age in which he figured. In 577, Rydderech, another noted king of Strath-
clyde, but noted for his munificence, defeated Aidan of Kintyre on the height of Arderyth. In
years between 584 and 603, the Cumbrians, aided by the confederacy of the Scoto-Irish,
fought four battles against the intrusive and invading Saxons, and were twice victorious, and
twice the vanquished. On many occasions, they had to fight with the Picts attacking them
from the north ; on some, with their occasional allies, the Scots, attacking them from the
west ; and, on a few, with the Cruithne of Ulster, and other Irish tribes, attacking them on
the south-west and south. In 750, the Northumbrian Eadbert seems to have traversed
Nithsdale and seized Kyle ; and, in 756, that prince, jointly with the Pictish Ungus, seized
the metropolis, though not the castle, of Alcluyd. Yet the descendants of the Romanized
Britons were not conquered. Their reguli or chiefs, indeed, often ceased, from civil broil or
foreign conflict, to succeed in unbroken series ; but, when the storm of war had passed away,
they soon reappeared, to wield anew the seemingly extinct power. The Cumbrians, though
unable to prevent considerable encroachments on all sides within their ancient frontiers, and
though slowly diminishing in the bulk and the power of their independence, remained a
distinct people within their paternal domains long after the Pictish government had for ever
fallen.
A body of Saxons, a people of Gothic origin, the confederates of those Angles who first
lxii INTRODUCTION.
set foot on South Britain in 449, debarked on the Ottadinian shore of the Forth immediately
after the Roman abdication. Amid the consternation and the disunitedness of the Ottadini,
the new settlers rather overran the country than subdued it ; and, though they seem to have
directed neither their attacks nor their views northward of the Forth, they are said to have
formed settlements along the coast of its frith, almost as far as to the east end of Antoninus'
wall. In 547, Ida, consanguineous with the new settlers, one of the most vigorous children
of the fictitious Woden, and the founder of the Northumbrian monarchy, landed, without op-
position, at Flamborough, and, acting on a previous design, pointed his keen-edged sword to
the north, carried victory with him over all the paternal domains of the Ottadini, and paused
not in a career of conquest, and of compelling subjugation, till he had established a consolidated
monarchy from the Humber to the Forth. After the defeat of the Cumbrians in 603, Ethel-
fred, the second successor of Ida, took possession of the borders of the SelgovEe, and com-
pelled the western Romanized Britons in general to acknowledge the superior energy and
union of the Saxons. Edwin, the most potent of the Northumbrian longs, assumed the
sceptre in 617 ; he acquired a fame of which tradition has spoken with awe ; he struck re-
spect or awe into the hearts of Cumbrians, Picts, Scots, and English ; he appears to have, in
some points, pushed his conquests from sea to sea, and to have made large accessions to his
kingdom on the south and west ; and he strengthened or occupied in some new form in the
north, that notable " burgh " or fortification which, as par excellence his, survives in the castle
of Edinburgh, the magnificent metropolis of all modern Caledonia. Egfrid, v$io was the
third in subsequent succession, and ascended the throne in 671, was successful in several
enterprises, particularly in an expedition in 684, against the unoffending Irish ; but at his
overthrow and death in 685, at Dunnichen, by the Picts, he bequeathed destruction to his
government inward from the Solway, and downward to the south of the Tweed, and effectu
ally relieved the Scots and the Strathclyde Britons from the terror of the Northumbria-
Saxon name.
The quondam subjects of the diminished kingdom remained in Lothian and the Merse, but
probably did not distinctly acknowledge any particular sovereign. The Northumbrian rulers
had, for several successions after Egfrid, little connexion with the territory of modern Scot-
land ; but, though they never reacquired all the ascendency which he lost, they began, about
the year 725, to be again strong along the Solway and in Southern Galloway ; and, before
the close of 75.6, they had formed settlements in Kyle and Cunningham, and disputed with
the Strathclyde Britons the possession of the central Clyde. From the moment of the
sceptre beginning to possess its ancient burnished brilliance, it was wielded, for several
reigns, by feeble and careless hands, and it speedily became lustreless, rusted, and broken.
Ethelred, the last of these dowdy monarchs, having been slain during an insurrection in
794, Northumbria, during the 33 following years, became the wasted and distracted victim
of anarchy, and was thenceforth governed by earls, under the sovereign authority of the
English kings. The Cruithne of Ulster, who had made frequent incursions on the shores
of the lower Clyde, took advantage of the Northumbrian weakness to form at length a
lasting settlement on the coast of Galloway. The Anglo-Saxons, during the Pictish period,
left, in the Gothic names of some places on the Solway, and of many between the Tweed
and the Forth, indubitable traces of their conquests, their settlements, and their national
origin.
The history of the Scots, or Scoto-Irish, from the date of their definitive settlement in the
country of the ancient British Epidii, in 503, to that of their being united to the Picts, and
becoming the ascendant section in North Britain, is more perplexed and obscure than almost
any passage of equal interest in the records of nations. They were too rude to possess the
art of writing, and too restless to endure the repose of study ; and when they found a bard
able and willing to speak of them to posterity, they were permitted by their narrow views of
social order to show him only the names and the personal nobleness of their reguli and chief-
tains as the elements of their fame. Even the genealogy and the series of their kings have
been flung into nearly inextricable confusion by the contests of the Scottish and of the Irish
antiquaries for pre-eminence in antiquity. Of their origin, and of their colonizing the ancient
Epidia, or the territory of the present Kintyre and Lorn, as clear an account as can be fur-
nished will be found in our article Dalriada. They probably obtained original footing in
Argyle from silent sufferance; and by natural increase, and frequent accessions of new imr-
migrants from the Irish Dalriada, they may have become nursed into strength in the strong
recesses of the west, before the Picts were refined enough to suspect any danger from theij
INTRODUCTION. Ixiii
vicinity. The vast natural power of all their frontiers, the thinness of the hostile popula-
tion on the sides where they were unprotected by the sea, the facility for slow and insensiblo
but steady and secure encroachment among the mountain districts on the east and the north,
the great distance of the seat of the Pictish power, and the intervention of the stupendous
rampart of the Highland frontier between the operations of that power and the aggres-
sions of settlement or slow invasion half-way across the continent, — these must have been
the grand causes of the Scots eventually acquiring energy and numbers, and a theatre of
action great and ample enough to enable them to cope with the dominant nation of North
Britain, and to conduct negociations and achieve enterprises which resulted in their own
ascendency.
Kenneth, who succeeded to the throne of the Scots in 836, was the grandson by his mother
of the Pictish kings Constantine and Ungus II., who died respectively in 821 and 833. On
the death of Uven, the son and the last male heir of Ungus, in 839, Kenneth claimed the
Pictish crown as his by right of inheritance. Two successive and successful competitors kept
it five years from his grasp ; but both wore it amid disturbance and in misery ; and the last
met a violent death at Forteviot, the seat of his power. Kenneth could dexterously take ad-
vantage of such confusions as arose from the loss of a battle or the death of a king, to achieve
an important revolution ; and finding no man bold enough again to contest his claim, he
easily stepped into the vacant throne. In his person a new dynasty, and a consolidation of
popular interests among two great people who had hitherto been at variance, began. The
Scots and the Picts were congenial races, of a common origin, and of cognate tongues ; and
they readily coalesced. Their union augmented the power of both, and, by the ascendency
of the Scots, gave at length their name to all Pictavia and Dalriada, and to the accessions
which afterwards were made by the two great united territories. The Scottish period, or
that of Scottish ascendency previous to Saxon intermixture, extended from the union of the
Scottish and the Pictish crowns in 843, to the demise of Donald Bane in 1097. During this
period, the ancient territories of the Selgovse, the Novantes, and the Damnii, became colo-
nized by successive hordes of immigrants from Ireland, who gave their settlements the name
of Galloway, and who, by a strange fortune, became known under the appellation of the
ancient Picts. Caledonian Northumbria, or the beautiful district of Lothian and the Merse,
after a series of bloody struggles for upwards of two centuries and a half, became integrated
with Scotland by the lasting connection of rightful cession and mutual advantage ; and even
the kingdom of Cumbria, or Strathclyde, degenerated so much from its former vigour that
large part of it was subdued by the English, who afterwards transferred it to the Scots to be
held as a fief of England. See the article Cumbria.
The next great period is the Scoto-Saxon, extending from 1097 to 1306. In the former
period, the Gaelic Scots predominated; in this, the Saxon-English or Anglo-Saxon. A new
people now came in upon the old ; a new dynasty ascended the throne ; a new jurisprudence
gradually prevailed ; new ecclesiastical establishments were settled ; and new manners and a
new speech overspread the land. Malcolm Canmore, the last but two of the strictly Scottish
Icings, married an Anglo-Saxon princess, and became the father of Edgar, who, by means of
an Anglo-Norman army, and after a fierce contest, enforced his title to a disputed crown,
and commenced the Scoto-Saxon dynasty. Under Malcolm Canmore, the domestics and re-
lations of his queen aided her powerful influence round the royal seat in introducing Saxon
notions ; some Saxon barons fled, with their dependants, into Scotland, from the violence of
the Norman conquest ; numerous fugitives were afforded an asylum by the king, from insur-
rections which he fomented in the north of England ; vast numbers of young men and women
were forcibly driven northward by him during his incursions into Northumberland and Dur-
ham ; and preliminary movements, to a great aggregate amount, and with a great cumulative
influence, were made toward a moral and social revolution. When Edgar, aided by the re-
sults of these movements, brought in a force from without altogether foreign in speech and
character to the Scots, and entirely competent in power to overawe them, and perfunctorily
to settle their disputes by placing their leader on the throne, he rendered the revolution
virtually complete — introducing in a mass a commanding number of foreign followers to mix
with the native population, and treat them as inferiors, and throwing open a broad ingress for
a general Anglo-Saxon, Anglo-Norman, and Anglo-Belgic colonization. So great and rapid
was the influx of the new people, that, in the reign of David I., the second in succession
after Edgar, men and women of them are said — somewhat hyperbolically, no doubt — to have
been found, not only in every village, but in every house of the Scottish or Scoto-Saxon,
INTRODUCTION.
dominions. So powerful, though peaceful an invasion was necessarily a moral conquest, a
social subjugation ; and its speedy aggregate result was to suppress the Celtic tongue and
customs, or coop them up within the fastnesses of the Highlands, — to substitute an Anglo-
Norman jurisprudence for the Celtic modes of government,— and to erect the pompous and
flaunting fabrics and ritual of Roman Catholicity upon the ruins of the simple though event-
tually vitiated Culdeeism which had so long been the glory at once of Pict, of Dalriadic Scot,
of Romanized Briton, and of Galloway Cruithne.
At the accession of Edgar, or the commencement of the Scoto-Saxon period, Scotland,
with the exception of its not claiming the western and the northern islands, possessed nearly
its present limits, — the Solway, the Kershope, the Tweed, and the intervening heights form-
ing the boundary-line with England. Northumberland and Cumberland were added as con-
quered territories by David I. ; but they were demanded back, or rather forcibly resumed,
by Henry II., during the minority of Malcolm IV. All Scotland may be viewed as temporarily
belonging to England, when Henry II. made captive William I., the successor of Malcolm IV.,
and obliged him to surrender the independence of his kingdom ; but, in 1189, it was restored
to its national status by the generosity of Richard I., and settled within the same limits as pre-
vious to William's captivity ; and throughout the remainder of the Scoto-Saxon period, it retained
an undisturbed boundary with England, conducive to the general interests of both kingdoms.
Lothian on the east, and Galloway on the south-west, were, at this epoch, regarded by foreign
powers as two considerable integral parts of Scotland ; and though so far consolidated with
the rest of the country as to afford but slight appearance of having been settled by dissimilar
people and governed by different laws, yet they were so far considered and treated by the
kings as separate territories, that they were placed under distinct jurisdictions. In 1266, the
policy of Alexander III. acquired by treaty the kingdom of Man, and the isles of the Hebri-
dean seas, and permanently annexed the latter to the Scottish crown. When the great
barons were assembled in 1284, dolefully to settle the dubious succession to the throne, they
declared that the territories belonging to Scotland, and lying beyond the boundaries which
existed at the accession of Edgar, were the Isle of Man, the Hebrides, Tynedale, and Pen-
rith. In 1290, the Isle of Man passed under the protection of Edward I. Even essential
Scotland, the main territory of the kingdom, was so deeply imperilled at the close of the
Anglo-Saxon period, that she could be preserved from the usurping and permanent grasp of
insidious ambition only by a persevering and intensely patriotic struggle ; and she was at
length re-exhibited and settled down in her independence, and reinstamped, but in brighter
hues, with the colourings of nationality, by the magnanimity and the indomitableness of her
people supporting all the fortune and all the valour of Robert Bruce, the founder of a new-
dynasty of her kings and the introducer of a new epoch in her history. An outline of her
annals from the days of Bruce downward, sufficiently full to be in keeping with that which
we have now sketched of the earlier periods, will be found in the historical section of our
article on Edinburgh.
INTRODUCTION.
I XV
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Aberdeen,
Argyle,
Ayr,
Banff, .
Berwick, .
Bute, .
Arran,
•Caitliness,
Clackmannan, .
Dumbarton,
Dumfries,
Edinburgh, .
Elgin,
Fife, .
Forfar,
Haddington,
Inverness,
Kincardine, .
Kinross, -.
Kirkcudbright,
Lanark, .
Linlithgow, .
Nairn,
Orkney,
Zetland, .
Peebles,
Perth,
Renfrew,
Ross and Cromart;
Roxburgh, .
Selkirk,
Stirling,
Sutherland,
Wigtown,
.'>' -
Till
I M P E R I A L GAZE T T E E R
or
SCOTLAND.
AAN.
ABBEY.
AAN, or Aes, a stream of the eastern Grampians.
It rises on the north side of Mount Battock, within
the border of Aberdeenshire, and runs about 10
miles north-eastward to a junction with the Feugh,
in the parish of Strachan, Kincardineshire. The
name is a corruption of Aven. See the article Aven
or Avon.
ABBEY, a village in the vicinity of Cambusken-
netli Abbey, on the north-west border of Clackman-
nanshire. The tract around it is in dispute between
the parish of Stirling and the parish of Logie. See
Cambuskenneth. Population of the village in
1861, 227.
ABBEY, a small village on the banks of the
Tyne, about a mile east of Haddington. Here, in
1178, a Cistertian nunnery was founded and richly
endowed by Ada, the mother of Malcolm IV. ; and
here, in 1548, the parliament met and gave their
sanction to the marriage of Queen Mary with the
Dauphin of France. Scarcely a trace of the con-
vent now remains.
ABBEY, any district around the remains or the
site of a great ancient monastic edifice. Thus there
is a special district of Abbey around the abbey of
Cambuskenneth. There is an ecclesiastical district
of Abbey around the abbey of Arbroath. There is
a parish of Abbey around the abbey of Paisley.
And there is a district known in Scottish law as
emphatically the Abbey, and possessed of the privi-
leges of a sanctuary for debtors, around the abbey
and palace of Holvrood. See the article Holthood.
ABBEY-BATHAN'S. See Abbey-Salnt-Bath-
an's.
ABBEY-BURN, a stream of Kirkcudbrightshire.
It runs about 6 miles southward, through the parish
of Eerrick, past Dundrennan abbey, to the Solway
frith, at a point a little east of Abbey Head. Burn-
foot, at its mouth, is a free port, and might easily
be made a commodious harbour. See Rekrick.
ABBEY-CRAIG, a craggy, precipitous, green-
stone hill, in the neighbourhood of Cambuskenneth
abbey, in the parish of Logie. It rises about 500
feet above the level of the surrounding plain, and is
precisely similar in form and texture to the rocks
of Craigforth and Stirling Castle in its near vicinity.
A monument to Wallace was recently begun upon
it, at great cost, but stood incomplete in 1865. The
hill is a picturesque feature in a most magnificent
landscape, and commands a gorgeous prospect of
the carses and windings of the Forth. The Scot-
tish army under Wallace was posted on it on the
night before the battle of Stirling. Excellent mill-
stones are manufactured out of its rock.
ABBEY-GEEEN, a village in the parish of Les-
mahago, Lanarkshire. It occupies a beautiful
position on the banks of the Nethan, about 6 miles
from Lanark and 22 from Glasgow. A monastery
was founded here in 1140 by David I., and was
subordinate to the abbey of Kelso. The village has
a post-office, and is otherwise the centre of influ-
ence to a considerable tract of country ; but, in these
respects, is usually designated by the name of the
parish. See Lesmahago. Population of the village
in 1861, 494.
ABBEY-SAINT-BATHAN'S,aparishintheLam-
mermoor district of Berwickshire. It is bounded by
Haddingtonshire, and by the parishes of Cockburns-
path, Coldingham, Buncle, Longformacus, Dunse,
and Oldhamstocks. Its post-town is Dunse. It
has a very irregular outline, and measures nearly 6
miles in extreme length, and 4 miles in extreme
breadth. It is drained along the eastern boundary
by the Eye, and through the interior by the head-
stream and some feeders of the Whiteadder. It
contains nearly 2,000 acres of arable land, and up-
wards of 3,000 acres of coarse pasture and barren
heaths. The hills consist of greywaeke, and rise
300 or 400 feet above the level of the vales. A
mine of copper was commenced in 1828, on the
estate of St. Bathan's, but proved uncompensating.
The yearlv value of raw produce was estimated in
1834 at £2,555. The rental in 1864 was about
£1,800. The Kirktown stands on the Whiteadder,
about 7 miles north by west of Dunse. Population
of the parish in 1831, 122; inl861,179. Houses,27.
Tliis parish is in the presbytery of Dunse, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £155 9s. 3d.; glebe, £13. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50, with fees £12. The church is a very
ancient structure, with about 140 sittings. A Cister-
tian nunnery, with the title of a priory, was founded
here, toward the close of the 12th century, by Ada,
daughter of King William the Lion, and dedicated
to St. Bathan, Bythen, or Bethan, who is supposed
to have been a cousin of Columba and his successor
at Iona; and the priory acquired large revenues,
and gave name to the parish; but not a vestige of
it now exists. About three furlongs east of the
church, in a field which still bears the name of
Chapelfield, were to be seen, a number of years ago.
the foundations of an ancient chapel; and about a
mile to the west there existed not long since some
A
ABBOTSFORD.
ABDIE.
remains of the parish church of Strafontain — proba-
bly a corruption of Trois Fontaines — united at the
Reformation to St. Bathan's, and originally an hospi-
tal founded by David I. A little to the north-west
of Strafontain, near the banks of the Monynut, a
tributary of the Whiteadder, is Godscroft, once the
demesne of David Hume, a distinguished writer of
the 17th century, and an intimate friend of the
celebrated Andrew Melville. There is a parochial
li brary.
ABBEY- WELL. See Urquhakt.
ABBOTRULE. See A3botsrule.
ABBOTSFORD, the country mansion erected,
and long occupied, by our great national novelist,
Sir Walter Scott. It stands on the right bank of
the Tweed, a little above the influx of Gala Water,
about 2 miles south-east of Galashiels, and imme-
diately adjacent to the road between Melrose and
Selkirk. It looks across a beautiful sweep of the
Tweed, away to the green hills of Ettrick Forest ;
but, excepting this pleasant prospect, it owes all its
attractions, and also its name, to " Scotland's mighty
minstrel." He bought the site when it was occu-
pied by a mean farm-stead called Cartley Hole; he
added to it various small adjacent properties from
time to time as his means increased; and he slowly
and ingeniously raised the mansion and elaborated
the grounds, till the former became " a romance in
stone and lime," and the latter a bewilderment of
beauty, where
"Well mifrlit we deem tliat wizard wand
Had set us down in fairy land."
The edifice defies all the rules of architecture, and has
singular features and extraordinary proportions, yet
looks both beautiful and picturesque. It got many
of its decorative details from some of the most
famous old piles in Scotland, — for example, a gate-
way from Linlithgow and a roof from Roslin Castle;
and it contains a multitude of curiosities connected
with its illustrious founder, with literature, with the
fine arts, and with Scottish antiquities. The melan-
choly interest of it, so profound at the death of Sir
Walter, was greatly deepened by the extinction of
his hereditary name at the death of his son.
ABBOTSFORD FERRY, a station on the Sel-
kirk railway, opposite Abbotsford.
ABBOTSHALL, a parish, containing a suburb of
the post-town of Kirkcaldy, on the southern border
of Fifeslrire. It is bounded by the frith of Forth,
and by the parishes of Kinghorn, Auchtertool,
Auchterderran, Dysart, and Kirkcaldy. Its great-
est length is nearly 4 miles; and its greatest breadth
is about 2 miles. The surface is low and flat for
more than half a mile from the frith, then rises in
fine slow swells, with beautiful diversities, for up-
wards of two miles, and then descends to the north-
ern boundary. The soil is various, but on the whole
excellent. The small streams Tiel and Camilla,
and a tributary of the Oar, form the chief drainage,
but have little feature. Raith loch, situated in the
Raith pleasure-grounds, is an artificial and highly
picturesque sheet of water, about a mile long, and
ra some parts nearly a quarter of a mile broad.
Raith-House is a good old mansion, with two wings,
and a fine Ionic portico. A square tower on the
summit of the bill on which that mansion stands,
and at an elevation of about 400 feet above the level
of the sea, commands one of the richest and most
extensive panoramic views in Scotland. The
residences of several proprietors are of a handsome
description. The chief antiquity is a piece of the
strong square tower of Balwearie, the residence of
the famous wizard, Sir Michael Scott. See Bal-
wcarii:. The parish is traversed by the Edin-
burgh, Perth, and Dundee railway. The real ren-
tal of the parish in 1836 was £7,500. Assessed pro-
perty in 1864. £14.733. The great majority of the in-
habitants live in Linktown. This consists of an old
street, about three quarters of a mile long, extend-
ing on a line with the principal street of Kirkcaldy,
and of a newer street, or New Town, going off at
right angles from the end of the former toward the
parish church. Linktown is a burgh of regality,
under Ferguson of Raith. It shares fully in the
trade and public communications of Kirkcaldy, and
has a gas-work, a pottery, a brick and tile work,
a sail-canvas manufactory, a linen bleacbfield, large
spinning-mills, several power-loom factories, and a
flour-mill. Annual fairs are held on the 3d Friday
of April and the 3d Friday of October; but they
possess little consequence. See Kirkcaldt. Pop-
ulation of Linktown in 1841, 4,100; in 1861, 4,385.
Houses, 354. The parish also contains the village
of Chapel. Population of the parish in 1831, 4,206;
in 1861, 5,193. Houses, 512.
This parish is in tbe presbytery of Kirkcaldy and
synod of Fife. Patron, Ferguson of Raith. Stipend,
£199 lis. lid.; glebe, £36. Schoolmaster's salary
now is £60, with house and garden, about £35 of
fees, and £25 from other sources. The parish
church was built in 1788, and has 825 sittings.
There is a Free church; and the yearly sum raised
by its congregation in 1865 was £361 9s. The
United Presbyterian Church at Bethelfield was built
in 1836, and has 1,096 sittings. There are four non-
parochial schools. Abbotshall parish was erected in
1650, by disjunction from Kirkcaldy; and it took its
name from the circumstance of an abbot of Dun-
fermline having built a house near the site of the
church.
ABBOT'S ISLE, a small green island, in the bay
of Stonefield, south side of Loch Etive. Argyleshire.
ABBOTSRULE, formerly a parish in Roxburgh-
shire, now divided between Southdean and Hobkirk.
It extended about 3 miles along the east side of the
upper part of the Rule, from Blackcleuch Mouth
to Fultonhaugh. The barony of Abbotsrule con-
tains 2,343 English acres, and was exposed to sale
in 1818 at the upset price of £35,000. See South-
dean.
ABB'S HEAD (St.), a hold promontory, in the
parish of Coldingham, 2 miles north-north-east of the
town of Coldingham, and 4 miles north-west of the
port of Eyemouth, Berwickshire. It consists of a
huge isolated mass of trap rock, opposing a perpen-
dicular front of nearly 300 feet in height to the bil-
lows of the German ocean. On two other sides the
point of the headland is nearly equally precipitous;
and on the fourth it is divided from the mainland by
a deep fosse. The stratified rocks adjacent to it
display astonishing contortions, and are pierced
with numerous large caverns. Tradition relates
that, early in the 9th century, Ebba daughter of
Ethelfred, king of Northumberland, fleeing from the
amorous suit of Penda, the Pagan king of Mercia,
was shipwrecked on this coast, and built a nunnery
on this headland in token of gratitude for her pre-
servation. Of this building no remains are now
discernible; but within the memory of man, there
were some relics of the chapel and cemetery, at-
tached to it on an eminence about a mile to the east.
ABDIE, a parish, containing a suburb of the
post-town of Newburgh, in the north-west corner oi
Fifeshire. It is bounded by Perthshire, by the
frith of Tay, and by the parishes of Newburgh,
Flisk, Dunbog, Monimail, Collessie, and Auchter-
muchty. Two portions of it are separated from the
main body by the intervention of the parishes of
Newburgh and Dunbog. The whole, if compact,
ABDIE.
ABERCORN.
might form an area of about 6 miles by 4. The
surface is a varied succession of hill and dale.
About 6,000 imperial acres are under cultivation;
about 300 aro under vt-ood; and about 1,670 are
either wasto land or coarse pasture, extensively
covered with heath and furze. The finest land
is rich alluvium along the Tay. The highest ground
is Norman's Law, " the hill of the northern man,"
situated in the eastern isolated portion, rising to
the height of 850 feet above the level of the sea,
with a bold precipitous front, and commanding a
splendid view of the Yale of Eden, the frith of Tay,
and the carse of Gowrie. Clatehard Crag is also a
remarkable basaltic, eminence, situated a little south-
east of Newburgh, and presenting a precipitous
front of about '250 feet, along whose face passes the
railway. The locli of Lindores, near the centre of
the parish, is a beautiful sheet of water, nearly a
mile in length, covering about 70 acres, fed by a
small stream called Priest's Bum, which never
freezes and never dries up, and discharges its waters
by a rivulet of about 2 miles in length into the Tay at
Lindores, a short way below Newburgh. The lake
abounds in perch, pike, eels, and aquatic fowl ; and
the stream which flows from it drives five or s'x
very valuable mills, — saw-mill, bone-mill, and corn-
mills. There are ten land-owners; and of these the
Earl of Zetland draws the largest rental. Macgill
of Rankeilour once had much land here, but now has
none. The most remarkable mansion is Inehrye
House, a Gothic structure with turrets and battle-
ments, situated a little east of the loch of Lindores,
and figuring conspicuously in some of the finest
views of the parish. The House of Lindores is also
a picturesque object. The village of Lindores, near
the foot of the loch, is a place of great antiquity;
and it contains some vestiges of a castle which is
said to have belonged to Duncan Macduff, first
Thane of Fife. Balfour relates that, in the vicinity
of this castle, in June 1300, a battle was fought be-
tween the Scots under Wallace and the English, and
cost the latter a loss of 3,000 killed and 500 taken
prisoners; and Blind Harry states that after the
battle, Wallace and his companions retired to the
castle. Lindores gave the title of Baron to the an-
cient family of Leslie, whose peerage became dor-
mant in 1775, at the death of Francis, the seventh
lord. Population of the village of Lindores in 1841,
95. There is also a village called Grange of Lin-
dores. Population in 1841, 166 Mount Pleasant,
the suburb of Newburgh, has been almost wholly
built since 1831. Population in 1861, 452. The
parish is traversed for a short distance by the Perth
branch of the North British railway, and enjoys
ready access to communication by that railway, and
by the Tay steam-boats. Population in 1831, 870;
in 1861, 1,381. Houses, 248. Assessed property
in 1S65, £9,558 13s.
This parish is in the presbytery of Cupar, and
synod of Fife. Patron, the Earl of Mansfield. Sti-
pend, £233 9s.; glebe, £23. Schoolmaster's salary
now is £60, with about £17 fees. The parish
church is a plain building with a pillared belfry,
overlooking the loch of Lindores. It was built in
1827, and has between 500 and 600 sittings. There
is a Free church for Abdie and Newburgh ; attend-
ance, about 220; yearly sum raised in 1865, £186
17s. There is one private school. The family of
Balfour of Denmill, now represented by Lord Bel-
haven, were long proprietors of a large part of Ab-
die; and their funeral monuments are still to be
seen in the aisle of the old church. One of the
most famous of them was Sir James Balfour, a dis-
tinguished writer on antiquities and heraldry, and
Ly on-kin g-at-arms to Charles I. and -Charles II. The
parish anciently bore the name of Lindores; and
when or why it took the name of Abdie is not
known.
ABER, any locality of a marked character, either
knolly or marshy, near the mouth of a stream,
whether the stream falls into lake or sea, or runs
into confluence with another stream. The name
occurs seldom by itself, and does not in that form
designate any considerable seat of population. But
it occurs often and prominently as a prefix, — com-
monly in combination with the ancient name, which
also is often the modem one, of the stream on which
the locality lies. And in the case of a parish, that
locality may be sought at the site of the original
parish church.
ABEEARDER. See Nairn (The).
ABERARGIE. See Aberdargie.
ABERBROTHWICK. See Arbroath.
ABERCAIRNEY. See Fowlis Wester.
ABERCHALDER. See Oich (The), and Cale-
donian Canal.
ABERCHIRDER, a village in the parish of Mar-
noch, Banffshire. It stands on the road from Tur-
riff to Portsoy, and on that from Huntly to Banff,
about 7 miles west of Turriff, and about 9 south by
west of Banff. It contains a post-office, a stamp-
office, a branch-office of the North of Scotland Bank,
an United Presbyterian church, an Episcopalian
church, a Roman Catholic chapel, and a Baptist
meeting-house ; and near it is a large handsome new
church, which was erected on occasion of the fa-
mous Free Church contest. See Marnoch. Hiring
markets for servants are held at Whitsunday and
Martinmas; an annual market, for horses and cattle,
called Marnoch fair, is held on the second Tuesday
of March; and a weekly market for grain is held,
during the winter, on Monday. Aberchirder was
the original name of Marnoch parish; and is said to
allude to the mouth of a moss or moss-burn, Popu
lation in 1841, 819; in 1861, 1,273.
ABERCORN, a parish on the north of Linlith-
gowshire. It is bounded by the frith of Forth, and
by the parishes of Dalmeny, Kirkliston, Ecclesma-
chau, Linlithgow, and Carriden. Its post-town is
Winchburgh. Its greatest length, east and west,
is about 4^ miles; and its greatest breadth is about
2A miles. The surface is exceedingly diversified
and eminently picturesque, yet nowhere attains an
elevation of more than 350 feet. Only two points
are called hills, — Binns hill in the west, and Priest-
inch in the south-east ; and the former is cultivated
to the summit, and commands a gorgeous, ex-
tensive, panoramic view. All the seaboard is
rich with wood, and surpassingly beautiful Hope-
toun House on the coast, the seat of the Earl
of Hopetoun, and the last place visited by George
IV. in Scotland, is a truly princely mansion, amid
superb pleasure-grounds. Binns House, the seat
of Sir R. Dalyell, Bart., is also a fine mansion. All
the streams of the parish are very small ; but they
drive some useful rural mills. There are several
quarries of excellent sandstone, and a quarry of
good whins tone; and there was, till lately, a small
coal-mine. The yearly value of raw produce was
estimated in 1843 at £22,700. The assessed pro-
perty in 1860 was £8,528. The villages are New-
ton, Philipston, and Society, but are all small. The
parish is traversed by the Union canal and by the
Edinburgh and Glasgow railway. Population in
1831, 1,013; in 1861, 965. Houses, 188.
This parish is in the presbytery of Linlithgow
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, the
Earl of Hopetoun. Stipend, £188 15s. 2d.; glebe,
£16. Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with £30 fees.
The parish church is an old pile, thoroughly re-
ABERCROMBIE.
ABERDEEN.
paired in 1838. There is a Free church; yearly
sum raised in 1853, £54 3s. 5Jd., — in 1865, £35 14s.
There is a school for girls, which was instituted by
Lady Hopetoun, and is well attended. The monas-
tery of Abercorn, anciently written Aebercurnig, is
mentioned more than once by Bede, and may be re-
garded as an early Culdee establishment; and it is
said to have been the residence of a bishop in the
7th century, at a time when the only other place of
similar character in Scotland was Whithorn in Gal-
loway. But not a vestige of it now exists. Nor is
there a vestige of Abercorn castle, which was a feu-
dal fortalice of great strength, and was dismantled
in 1455, during the rebellion of one of the Black
Douglases. The estate of Abercorn belonged, in the
13th century, to Sir John Graham, the friend of
Wallace ; it afterwards passed to the Douglases ; it
next went to the Hamiltons, and gave them a noble
title, which continues to be enjoyed by their de-
scendant, the Marquis of Abereorn; and it subse-
quently passed to the Mures, the Lindsays, the Se-
tons, and last of all the Hopes, Earls of Hopetoun.
Binns was the family seat of " the bloody Dalzell,"
and is still in the possession of his descendants.
ABERCROMBIE, or St. Monance, a small parish,
containing the post-office village of St. Monance, on
the southern border of Fifeshire. It is bounded by
the frith of Forth, and by the parishes of Pitten-
weem, Cambee, Kilconquhar, and Elie. It mea-
sures about li mile from north to south, and about
a mile along the coast. Its surface makes a very
abrupt ascent from the low and rocky beach, and
then has some diversities, but on the whole is flat.
The soil is chiefly a friable fertile loam ; and nearly
all the land is arable and cultivated. Coal mines
were worked, but are exhausted. The small stream
Inweary flows on the western boundary to the sea;
and the Dreel burn runs eastward on the boundary
with Cambee. There are two landowners of £100
Scots valued rent. Assessed property in 1865, £4,350
17s. 3d. The village of St. Monance stands on the
coast, about 1J mile west of Pittenweem. It is a
burgh of barony, under the laird of Newark; and
has 3 bailies, a treasurer, and 15 councillors. A good
harbour is here, partly natural and partly formed
by a strong pier, builtin 1865; and it accommodates
3 or 4 trading vessels, and about 100 large fishing-
boats belonging to the port, but is seldom frequented
by strangers. A principal employment of the vil-
lagers is the herring fishery, all now in the neigh-
bouring waters, but formerly carried on chiefly off
the coast of Caithness. There are several friendly
societies. The village of Abercrombie is small and
rural. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,110; in
1861, 1,498. Houses, 192.
This parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrews,
and svnod of Fife. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£162 0s. lid., of which £32 19s. 4d. is received
from the Exchequer. Glebe, 12 acres. School-
master's salary, £35; fees, £60. There was for-
merly a private school. The old kirk of Aber-
crombie is in ruins, and has not been used as a
place of worship for upwards of two centuries.
It is the burying- place of the Balcaskie family.
The church now in use is situated at the west end
of the village of St. Monance, close upon the beach.
It is a Gothic edifice, originally founded in the 14th
century, and, till recently renovated, presenting a
singularly antique appearance in its interior fur-
nishings as well as externally. It is now a very
handsome place of worship, seated for 528, and pre-
serving as much of its ancient outline as was found
consistent with modem ideas of comfort. It is re-
lated that David II., having been grievously wounded
by a barbed arrow, and miraculously cured at the
tomb of St. Monance, dedicated this chapel to him,
and granted thereto the lands of Easter Birnie. Keith
says: "This chapel, which was a large and stately
building of hewn stone, in form of a cross, with a
steeple in the centre, was given to the Black friars,
by James III., in 1460-80. The wall of the south
and north branches of this monastery," he adds,
" are still standing, but want the roof; and the east
end and steeple serve for a church to the parish-
ioners." This parish was known by the name of
Abercrombie so far back as 1174. In 1646 the lands
of Newark, constituting the barony of St. Monance,
were disjoined from Kilconqunar, and annexed quoad
sacra to Abercrombie. The parish thus enlarged
received the designation of Abercrombie with St.
Monance. In the course of years, and with the de-
cline of the village of Abercrombie and rise of that
of Monance, the old title disappeared altogether,
and the parish came to be known as that of St. Mo-
nance, and is still sometimes so designated; but
early in the present century, the old title of Aber-
crombie was formally revived at the instance of the
principal proprietor, Abercrombie Anstruther of Bal-
caskie. A peerage of Abercrombie existed in the
17th century, in the family of Sandilands, proprie-
tors of the lands of Newark, but became extinct at
the death of the second lord.
ABERDALGIE, a parish in the Strathearn dis-
trict of Perthshire. It is bounded by the parishes
of Tippermuir, Perth, Forteviot, and Forgandenny.
Its post-town is Perth. It has a compact outline,
and measures about 3 miles from east to west, and
about 2J from north to south. It is washed along
the south by the beauteous winding Earn, and
ascends the hills toward the watershed with the
Almond and the Tay; and it partakes fully in all
the boasted beauty of Lower Strathearn, both as to
the richness of its own scenery and the magnificence
of its distant views. Duplin Castle, the seat of the
Earl of Kinnoul, is a superb feature. The former
castle was accidentally burnt to the ground in 1827 ;
and the present one, in the Elizabethan style oi
architecture, was built at a cost of upwards of
£30,000. The whole parish is the property of the
Earl of Kinnoul, whose ancestors acquired it in
1625 from the Earl of Morton. The soil in general
is fertile, but in some places thin. There are seve-
ral sandstone quarries. The assessed property of
the parish in 1843 was £3,870 17s., and in 1865 was
£3,724 14s. 7d. Population in 1831, 434; in 1861,
295. Houses, 62.
This parish is in the presbytery of Perth, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Stipend, £157 19s. 4d.;
glebe, £24. Patron, the Crown and the Earl of
Kinnoul. Schoolmaster's salary now is £40, with
about £14 fees. The parish of Duplin was united
to this parish in 1618. The present church was
built in 1773. A vault at the east end is the bury
ing place of the Kinnoul family. The battle of
Duplin was fought in this parish, August 12th,
1332. See Duplin.
ABERDARGIE, a village in the palish of Aber-
nethy, Perthshire. It is situated in the mouth of
Glenfarg, near the mill of Farg, and has a humble
appearance.
ABERDEEN, the capital of the north of Scotland.
It stands on the east coast, between the rivers Dee
and Don, in 57° 8' 20" north latitude and 2° 2' 48" west
longitude, 45 miles south-south-east of Banff, 107
east-south-east of Inverness, 90 by railway north-
east by north of Perth, and respectively 108, 112 J,
and 135 north-north-east of Edinburgh, the first of
these three distances being tyy road, the second by
railway through Broughty-Ferry, and the third by
railway through Perth. It comprises two towns
ABERDEEN.
ABERDEEN.
Old Aberdeen and New Aberdeen, situated about a
mile from each other, of different aspects, and with
distinct charters and privileges; so that, though
possessing one set of interests, and included within
the limits of one parliamentary burgh, it requires
to be discribedastwo places, each with its own paro-
chial connexions, and as a separate town.
The parish in which Old Abekdken stands is
called the parish of Old Machar. It is bounded on
the north by the parishes of New Machar and Bel-
helvie; on the east by the sea; on the south by the
parish of St. Nicholas and by Kincardineshire; and
on the west by the parishes of Banchory-Devenick,
Newhills.and Dyce. Its greatest length, from north
to south, is about 7 J miles; and its greatest breadth
is about 4 miles. The river Dee divides it from
Kincardineshire; and the river Don goes windingly
across its centre. Its surface rises slowly from the
beach, and is beautifully diversified by heights and
hollows and by the fruits of art. The general land-
scape is pleasant, and comprises some fine close
scenes and a good far-away view. Its chief features
are the beach and sea, the course of the river, some
woods on the Don, clumps of trees on the rising
grounds, country mansions, villas, manufactories,
villages, the town of Old Aberdeen, and the out-
skirts of New Aberdeen. The steep and rugged
banks of the Don, from the house of Seaton to below
the old bridge, are truly romantic. Many curious
little sand-hills occur near Ferryhills, moulded into
various forms, and disposed in all directions, seem-
ingly by the retiring of some immense quantity of
water. The soil of some parts of the parish is natu-
rally fertile; but that of other parts either lies bar-
ren or has been forced into productiveness by labour
and expense. The principal mansions are Grand-
holm, Scotstown, Denmore, Balgovvnie, Hilton,
Powis, Cornhill, Seaton, and Woodside.
The part of the parish north of the Don is called
the landward part, yet nearly one half of its popu-
lation is in villages. The part south of the Don
is all included in the parliamentary boundary of the
burgh; and contains the manufacturing contiguous
villages of Woodside, Tanfield, and Cotton, about
2 miles north-west of New Aberdeen, — the village
of Ruthrieston, about 2 miles south-west, — the
suburbs of Broadford, on the north side, — Gilcom-
ston, along the north end of the west side, — the
Windmill Brae and College Street near the south
end of the same side, — Holborn, about half-a-mile
to the south-west, — Dee village, on the bank of the
river Dee, — and the new streets situated between
Gilcomston and the Dee, extending nearly three-
quarters of a mile westward, and containing many
of the best houses of New Aberdeen. The agricul-
ture of Old Machar has, in recent times, received
large accessions both by the reclamation of waste
lands and in the form of general improvement; and
the manufactures, in addition to those in the town,
comprise extensive woollen-cloth-making, thread-
spinning, weaving, bleaching, and flax-spinning,
at Grandholm-Haugh, Gordon's Mills, Printfield,
Broadford, and Rubislaw. Assessed property in
1860, £112,172; of which £319 were in quarries,
and £1,844 in fisheries. Population in 1831, 25,107;
in 1861, 33,236. Houses, 3,431. Population, in
1861, of the landward part, 1,298. Houses, 226.
This parish is in the presbytery and synod of
Aberdeen. The charge is collegiate. Patron of
both charges, the Earl of Fife. Stipend of the first
minister, £273 Is. 3d., without a manse or glebe; of
the second minister, £282 19s. 9d., with a manse
and glebe of the yearly value of £31 10s. School-
master's salary, £60. The parish church formed
part of the cathedral of St. Machar, in the city of
Old Aberdeen, and will be described in our account
of the town. Sittings, 1,594. The chapel in King's
College is open during the session for the accom-
modation of the professors and students. The pa-
rish in ancient times comprehended, not only all its
present territory, but also the districts of New Ma-
char and Newbills; and it ranked as a deanery, or
was held by the dean of the cathedral, while these
districts were served as chapelries. But about the,
time of the Reformation, New Machar was erected
into a separate parish; and about the year 163.3,
Newhills also was made a separate parish. And in
modern times, three chapels were built respectively
in Gilcomston, in Woodside, and at Holborn, and
during a few years previous to the Disruption, had
the character of quoad sacra parish churches, each
with a definite parochial territory. Gilcomston
chapel was erected by subscription in 1769-71, en-
larged in 1796, and has 1,522 sittings; and in
September, 1852, it was constituted by the Court
of Teinds a quoad sacra parish church. Woodside
chapel is a commodious structure, erected in 1846 ;
was constituted a quoad sacra parish church, by the
Court of Session, in December, 1862; and had
1,140 persons on its communion roll in 1865. Hol-
burn chapel was erected by subscription in 1836, at
the cost of £1,858, and has 1,332 sittings. The
minister of Gilcomston chapel is elected by trustees;
and the minister of each of the other two chapels
by the congregation. There are five Free churches,
— Old Machar, Gilcomston, Woodside, Holborn,
and Bon-Accord ; and they had communicants in
1864, and raised contributions in 1865, as follow: —
Old Machar, communicants, 246, — contributions,
£612 4s. 10Jd.; Gilcomston, communicants. 1,169,
— contributions, £695 5s. 7d.; Woodside, communi-
cants, 606, — contributions, £598 13s. l£d.; Holborn,
communicants, 846, — contributions, £558 19s. 8Jd.;
Bon -Accord, communicants, 496, — contributions,
£397 4s. 6d. The other places of worship are an
Original Seceder church, with 500 sittings; St.
John's Episcopal church, with 386 sittings; a Con-
gregational chapel at Cotton, with 480 sittings;
and a Baptist meeting-house, with about 50 at-
tendants. There are two private schools in the dis-
trict north of the Don, and perhaps so many as
seventy in the district south of it, — the total num-
ber in 1833 having been sixty-two, with an attend-
ance of 2,160.
The Town of Old Aberdeen stands about a mile
north of New Aberdeen, and adjacent to the right
bank of the Don, on the road to Peterhead and Fra-
serburgh. It is a burgh of barony, the seat of an
university, and formerly the seat of a bishopric. It
has a countrified, classic, and antique appearance,
and presents a striking contrast, in both its quiet-
ness and its quaintness, to the bustle and pretension
of New Aberdeen. Its environs abound in gardens
and fruiteries, and look as if disdaining all acquaint-
ance with manufacture and commerce. The ap-
proach to it from the north over the Don is emi-
nently interesting. The river there flows in a deep
narrow bed, between beetling crags and among
embowering wood; and it is spanned, at the dis-
tance of 1,200 yards from the sea, by the famous
' Brig o' Balgownie,' a lofty, narrow, gaunt Gothic
arch of 72 feet in width, — and, 450 yards lower down,
by the new bridge of Don, a structure of 5 arches,
and 500 feet in length. In 1281, Henry Cheyne,
the nephew of the Red Comyn, who opposed the
claims of Robert Bruce to the crown of Scotland,
became bishop of Aberdeen; and, after Comyn was
slain at Dumfries in 1305, the bishop was obliged
to flee to England, and to let his episcopal revenues
I lie unapplied. But he eventually got reconciled U>
ABERDEEN.
6
ABERDEEN.
King Robert, and was allowed to return and to take
repossession of his see; and then, with the concur-
rence or more probably by the command of the
king, he devoted the accumulated episcopal reve-
nues to the building of a bridge over the Don, in
the vicinity of the cathedral. This was erected
probably about the year 1320, and is the present
' Brig o' Balgownie.' An annual sum of £2 5s. 8d.
was bequeathed by Sir Alexander Hay toward the
supporting of it; and this bequest, which, as the
quaint inscription on the lobby wall of Aberdeen
town-house says, consisted of " certain few ferms
and an-rents," went on accumulating by increase
of the value of the property. In 1825, the fund
amounted to £20,000, and was applied to the build-
ing of the new bridge ; and since then, though no
expense has been spared in keeping the old bridge
and road- way in excellent repair, the fund has
again accumulated, insomuch that, in 1865, it
amounted to £14,000. Lord Byron commemorates
this locality in a stanza of Don Juan, where he
speaks of " the Dee, the Don, Balgownie's Brig's
black wall ;" and he adds in a note, " The Brig of
Don, near the Auld Town of Aberdeen, with its one
arch, and its black deep salmon stream below, is in
my memory as yesterday. I still remember, though
perhaps I may misquote, the awful proverb which
made me pause to cross it, and yet lean over it with
a childish delight, being an only son, at least by
the mother's side. The saying as recollected by me,
was this, but I have never heard nor seen it since
I was nine years of age: —
' Brig of Balgownie, black's your wa',
Wi' a wife's ae son, and a mare's ae foal,
Doon ye shall fa' ! ' "
Several streets, courts, and closes of Old Aber-
deen challenge attention by their singular or an-
cient features. Mar's Castle is a curious object.
The town-house is a neat building, erected towards
the close of last century. The trades' hospital,
built on the site of the Mathurine convent, was
founded in 1533 by Bishop Dunbar. There are no
remains of the bishop's palace. The cathedral was
originally founded in 1154; but having become
ruinous, it was demolished, and a splendid new one
founded by Bishop Kinnimonth in 1357. This is
said to have been seventy years in progress; but it
does not appear to have ever been completed. All
parts of it except the nave were either destroyed by
the fury of mobs at the Reformation, or pulled down
by the soldiers of Cromwell as building material for
a garrison. The nave is now the parish church,
and is kept in high preservation, and underwent
repairs in 1832. It is 135 feet long and 65 feet
broad; and, though not an elegant structure, is
massive and noble, and possesses some interesting
features. The windows and pillars are in the severe
early English style, and for the most part plain ;
but the western window is a very fine large one,
with seven high lancet lights, and the capitals of
the pillars of the transept are beautifully carved
with oak and vine leaves. The ceiling, too, is of
oak, finely carved, and painted with armorial
bearings.
The buildings of King's college, however, are
the chief ornament of Old Aberdeen. It appears
that there existed, so long ago as the reign of Mal-
colm IV., a " Studium getierale in collegio canoni-
corum Aberdoniensium," which subsisted till the
foundation of this college by Bishop Elphinstone.
In 1494, Pope Alexander VI., by a bull dated Feb-
ruary 10th, instituted in the city of Old Aberdon,
or Aberdeen, an university, or " Studium generale et
Universitas itudii generalis," for theology, canon and
civil law, medicine, the liberal arts, and every law-
ful faculty ; and privileged to grant degrees. James
IV. applied for this bull on the supplication of
Bishop Elphinstone, who is considered as the
founder. But though the bull was granted in
1494, the college was not founded till the year 1505.
It was dedicated to St. Mary; but, being taken un-
der the immediate protection of the king, it was
denominated King's college. James IV. and Bishop
Elphinstone endowed it with large revenues; and
Charles I. gave it additional possessions. It had,
in 1836, an income of £2,363 from endowments and
Crown grants; and it received, in 1840, a bequest
of £11,000 from Dr. Simpson of Worcester. Its
bursaries were 128, aggregately yielding £1,643 a-
year. Its first principal was Hector Boethius.
A recommendation was made in the report of the
University commissioners of 1838, that King's col-
lege and Marischal college should be united into
one university, to be called the university of Aber-
deen, with its seat at Old Aberdeen ; and this re-
commendation has been carried out under the act
1858. The university possesses the funds which
belonged to both colleges, and ranks from the year
1494, the date of King's college. The session, in
arts, commences on the last Monday of October, and
closes on the first Friday of April; in divinity,
commences on the second Monday of December,
and closes on the last Friday of March; in law,
commences on the first Monday of November, and
extends to the end of March ; in medicine, for win-
ter, commences on the first Monday of November,
and extends over six months, and for summer, com-
mences on the first Monday of May, and extends
over three months. The general council meets
twice a-year — on the Wednesday after the second
Tuesday of April, and on the AVednesday after the
second Tuesday of October. The chief officers are
a chancellor, elected by the general council, a
rector, elected by the matriculated students, a prin-
cipal, appointed by the Crown, and four assessors,
chosen by respectively the chancellor, the rector,
the general council, and the senatus academieus.
The university court consists of the rector, the prin-
cipal, and the four assessors. The senatus academ-
ieus consists of the principal and the professors.
The chairs are Greek, humanity, logic, mathematics,
natural philosophy, moral philosophy, natural his-
tory, systematic theology, divinity and church his-
tory, divinity and biblical criticism, oriental lan-
guages, law, institutes of medicine, practice of
medicine, chemistry, anatomy, surgery, materia
medica, midwifery, medical logic and jurisprudence,
and botany. The Crown appoints to fifteen of the
chairs, and the university court to five. There are
also three lectureships and eight assistantships.
Under the act of 1858, the professorships of Greek,
humanity, mathematics, moral philosophy, natural
philosophy, church history, oriental languages, and
chemistry, as also the principalship, were united
with those of King's college; new professorships
of logic, divinity and biblical criticism, institutes
of medicine, materia medica, midwifery, and bo-
tany were instituted for the united colleges; com-
pensation, to the aggregate amount of £3,500 a-
year, was made to such professors and other officials
as were necessarily displaced; anew scale of emolu-
ments, including estimated amounts from fees, was
fixed, — allotting to the principal £599 a-year, to the
Greek professor £607, humanity £578, logic £492,
mathematics £530, moral philosophy £492, natural
philosophy £524, natural history £468, systematic
theology £566, church history £486, biblical criti-
cism £130, oriental languages £439, law £303, in-
stitutes of medicine £272, practice of medicine £254,
ABERDEEN.
ABERDEEN.
chemistry £531, anatomy, £600, surgery £266, ma-
teria medica £242, midwifery £223, medical juris-
prudence £222, botany £377 ; and authority was
given for repairs and alterations in Marischal col-
lege, and for the erection of new buildings at King's
college, at an estimated cost of respectively £800
and £17,936. The number of members of the
general council, in 18G5, was 502. The number of
matriculated students, in the winter session of
1863-4, was 560; in the summer session of 1S64.
109. The number who graduated in 1864 was 43
in arts, 52 in medicine, and 4 in divinity.
The buildings of King's college stand on the east
side of the town ; and are rendered conspicuous at
a distance by a fine square tower, fashioned at the
top into a beautiful imperial crown, surmounted by
a cross. The crown is said to have been built about
1530, by Bishop Dunbar, to replace an original
spire or lantheni, which had been damaged or over-
thrown by a storm. The buildings occupy the sides
of a large quadrangle, underwent extensive addi-
tions and repairs shortly before the union of the
colleges, and presented then remarkable mixtures
of botli style and material ; and the west side, com-
posed of class-rooms, has since then been rebuilt.
All the old parts are of granite, with either round-
headed arches, or severe sharp early English ones ;
and the restored portions of these have fronts of
polished sandstone, and florid perpendicular win-
dows. The buildings, as a whole, comprise a
chapel, a library, a museum, a common hall, a suite
of class-rooms, and a range of modern houses un-
attached, for the accommodation of the professors.
The chapel is the choir of the old College church,
and a very handsome building, and has stalls of
beautifully carved black oak, surrounded by a screen
of the same material, in a style of artistic finish far
superior to everything else of the kind in Scotland;
but the ancient elegant decorations both of this
building and of the common hall have been sadly
spoiled by modernized seats, pulpits, and stucco-
work. The tomb of Bishop Elphinstone is in the
middle of the chapel, and was once highly orna-
mented, but is now covered with a slab of black
marble without inscription. The library is the
nave of the old College church, and is much too
small to afford proper lodgment to the immense and
most valuable collection.
When King's college existed as a separate insti-
tution, it was the great resort of students from the
surrounding rural districts and from all parts of the
North Highlands; and its numerous small bur-
saries, together with very moderate class fees, and
efficient professional teaching, enabled large num-
bers of young men from the humbler ranks of life
to obtain an excellent classical education, and so
push their way to positions of influence and dis-
tinction. Since the union of the colleges, the cur-
riculum of study has been somewhat extended, the
system of bursaries partly modified, several of these
formed into scholarships, and the class-fees con-
siderably increased.
Old Aberdeen is a place of great antiquity, and
was of considerable importance towards the end
of the 9th century. David I., in 1154, translated
the episcopal see from Mortlach to this place, and
granted "to God and the blessed Mary, St. Machar,
and Nectarius, bishop of Aberdeen, the haill village
of Old Aberdon." Malcolm IV.. William the Lion,
and James IV., successively confirmed and enlarged
the original charter, and conferred extensive grants
of lands and teinds on the bishop of Aberdeen. On
the abolition of Episcopacy, the right of appointing
magistrates fell to the Crown; and, in 1723. a war-
rant of the Privy-council authorized the magistrates
to elect their successors in office in future. Previous
to the municipal act, the council, including the pro-
vost, four bailies, and a treasurer, consisted of 19
members. The limits of the burgh are ill-defined.
The revenue of the burgh in 1832, was £43 5s.; the
expenditure £14 16s. 6d. The burgh has no debts,
and little property; the latter consisting only of a
right of commonty in a moss, and a freedom-hill
lying north of the Don, the town-house, feu-duties,
customs, and a sum of £310. The magistrates are
trustees of £2,791 13s. 4d., three per cent, consols,
being a proportion of a bequest left by Dr. Bell to
found a school upon the Madras plan ; and also of
Mitchell's hospital, endowed in 1801, for maintain-
ing five widows and five unmarried daughters of
burgesses. There are seven incorporated crafts, but
no guildry. Old Aberdeen is a place of little trade;
but a fair for cattle and horses is held at it on the
Wednesday after the third Tuesday of October,
old style. The population of the town and its en-
virons in 1851 — or the population of Old Machar,
after deducting the districts of Bon-Accord, Gilcom-
ston, Holburn, and Woodside, and all the district
north of the Don — was 8,772. But the population
of the town itself was only 1,490.
The parish in which most of New Aberdeen
stands is called St. Nicholas. It was divided in 1828
into six parishes; but it is still conveniently recog-
nised as one parish in topographical description and
in statistics. It has an irregularly quadrangular
outline, and comprises an area of about 1,100 im-
perial acres. It is bounded on the south by the river
Dee; on the east by the sea; and on the other
sides by Old Machar. The boundary on the Dee
runs about 1A mile nearly eastward to the river's
mouth; that on the sea-shore runs nearly lj mile
almost due north, to a point opposite the little em-
inence of Broad Hill, nearly midway between the
Dee and the Don; and that with Old Machar runs
nearly westward about a mile, and then irregularly
south-westward for about another mile to the Den-
burn, between Broadford and Gilcomston, and
thence southward, along the Denburn, almost three
quarters of a mile, to the Dee. Somewhat more
than one half of all the area, comprising most of
the south side, all the west side, and nearly one
half of the north side, is occupied by the city of
Aberdeen and by the suburb of Footdee or Puttie,
which lies along the lower reach of the river; and
the rest of the north side is chiefly disposed in mar-
ket gardens, nurseries, and bleach-greens; while
nearly all the east side consists of a range of low
sand hills and an expanse of links or open downs.
The surface of the south and west sides is roughly
tumulated, and comprises Heading Hill on the
eastern outskirts of the citv. and the Castle Hill,
the Port Hill, the School Hill, and St. Catherine's
Hill, (the last now levelled,) within the city and oc-
cupied by its streets; and the surface of the north
side and of the links is nearly flat, and but very
slightly elevated above the level of the sea. The
annual value of property in the parish assessed to
income tax in 1860, exclusive of railways, was
£143,137; of which £2.016 were in fisheries, and
£5.610 in gas-works. Population of the parish in
1831, 32.912; in 1841, 36,734 ; in 1861, 41,962.
Houses, 2,711.
The parish of St- Nicholas, in remote Roman
Catholic times, contained a parish church, a Domin-
ican friary, a Franciscan friaiy, a Carmelite friary,
and a monastery dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The
parish church was probably the oldest of these
structures, and certainly seems to have been by far
the most magnificent; and it was dedicated to St.
Nicholas, who had been bishop of Myria in Lyciar
ABERDEEN.
8
ABERDEEN.
and who, according to a prevalent custom of the
times, was chosen patron saint of the city. That
church, in a superb cathedral-like form in which it
stood for ages, was probably built in the 12th cen-
tury, and at all events is known to have existed in
the 13th; and it afterwards was fitted up and long
used as two churches, — the nave or west end of it
under the name of the West church, and the choir
or east end of it under the name of the East church.
The church of the Franciscan friary also came early
to be used in the capacity of what is now termed a
chapel of ease, or rather took rank as a co-ordinate
parochial place of worship under the name of Grey-
friars church. A chapel was founded at Footdee,
in 1498, by the town-council, for the benefit of the
fishing population, and dedicated to St. Clement;
and after the Reformation, it was neglected and
went into decay; but in 1631, it was repaired and
put into use as a church in connection with the Pro-
testant establishment. The ministers of all the
four places acted conjointly, or had a cumulative
care of the parish, yet each exercised a special su-
pervision within a district of his own ; and during
at least 150 years, the charges of the West church
and the East church were collegiate. In modern
times, several other places of worship were erected,
either originally in connection with the Establish-
ment, or in circumstances which afterwards brought
them into connection with it; and in 1828, by a
decree of the Court of Teinds, the four old churches
and two of these modern erections, called the South
church and the North church, were constituted se-
parate and distinct parish churches, and had dis-
tributed among them all the territory of the old pa-
rish in six new parishes. Four other places of
worship which existed prior to 1828, and one which
was built in 1833, held the rank of quoad sacra pa-
rish churches at and before the Disruption in 1843;
but three of them then adhered to the Free church,
and the other two are now the only chapels of ease
in St. Nicholas.
All the parishes of New Aberdeen are in the pres-
bytery and synod of Aberdeen. The town council
are the patrons of the six parish churches; and the
congregations elect to the two chapels of ease.
The stipends of the ministers of the West, the East,
the South, and the North parishes, are £300 each,
paid by the city corporation ; that of the minister
of Greyfriars parish is £250, paid by the city corpo-
ration ; and that of the minister of St. Clement's
parish is £279 lis. 10|d., derived from the half-
barony of Torrie, the glebe of Footdee, and seat-
rents. — The present West church stands on the site
of the nave of the old church of St. Nicholas, and
was built in 1755 and enlarged in 1836, and con-
tains 1,454 sittings. Population of the West pa-
rish in 1831, 8,930; in 1861, 11,450. The present
East church stands on the site of the choir of the
old church of St. Nicholas, and was built in 1837,
and contains 1,705 sittings. Population of the East
parish in 1831, 3,846; in 1861, 5,182. The Grey-
friars church is a very ancient building, the only
ancient church now in New Aberdeen, and is often
called the College church. Sittings, 1,042. Popu-
lation of Greyfriars parish in 1831, 4,706; in 1861,
7,143. The present St. Clement's church stands on
the site of the old Footdee church, and was built in
1828, and contains 800 sittings. Population of St.
Clement's parish in 1831, 6,501; in 1861, 7,623.
The original South church was built in 1779, and
was first a meeting-house in connexion witli the
Relief body, and afterwards a chapel of ease in con-
nexion with the Establishment; and in 1830-1
that structure was taken down and the present
church erected on its site. Sittings, 1,562. Popu-
lation of the South parish in 1831, 4,313; in 1861,
4,291. The North church was built in 1826, and
contains 1,486 sittings. Population of the North
parish in 1831, 4,616; in 1861, 6,273. The two
chapels of ease are called Trinity church and John
Knox's church. Trinity church was built in 1794,
and contains 1,247 sittings, but is now shut up;
and John Knox's church was built in 1835, and
contains 1,054 sittings.
The Free churches in St. Nicholas parish are the
West, the East, Greyfriars, St. Clement's, South,
North, Trinity, John Knox, Union, Melville, Mari-
ners', and the Gaelic. The communicants in the
West, in 1864, were 1.070, — the yearly contribu-
tions, in 1865, £1,772 "7s. 4^d.; in the East, com-
municants, 890, — contributions, £1,461 7s. 7d.; in
Greyfriars, communicants, 160, — contributions,
£170 16s. lOJd.; in St. Clement's, communicants,
940, — contributions, £559 2s. 3Jd. ; in South, com-
municants, 1,100, — contributions, £1,528 15s. 7Ad.;
in North, communicants, 487, — contributions, £498
17s 3d.; in Trinity, communicants, 784, — contri-
butions, £1,588 19s. 7d.; in John Knox, communi-
cants, 914, — contributions, £568 15s. 3d.; in Union,
communicants, 712, — contributions, £400 14s. lid.;
in Melville, communicants, 102, — contributions,
£110 7s. 9Jd.; in Mariners', communicants, 250, —
contributions, £141 8s. 4id.; in the Gaelic, com-
municants, 209, — contributions, £161 10s. 5d. There
were, in 1865, six United Presbyterian churches, —
respectively in St. Nicholas-lane, in George-street, in
Belmont-street, in Charlotte-street, in St. Paul-street,
and in Gallowgate ; and the last had but recently
become connected with the U. P. body. The other
places of worship, in 1865, inclusive of some within
Old Machar, were an Original Seceder church, in
Skene-street; four Independent chapels, in con-
nexion with the Congregational Union of Scotland,
in Belmont-street, Dee-street, Blackfriars-street,
and Albion-street; two Independent chapels, in
connexion with the Evangelical Union, in St. Paul-
street and Johns-street; St. Andrew's Scotch
Episcopal church, served by the Bishop of Aber-
deen and an assistant, in King-street, with 1,100
sittings ; St. John's Scotch Episcopal church, in
Crown-terrace ; St. Mary's Scotch Episcopal church,
in Carden-place; St. Paul's English Episcopal
church, in Gallowgate, with 900 sittings; St. James'
English Episcopal church, in Crown-street; aWes-
leyan Methodist chapel, in Long Acre, with 900
sittings ; three Baptist chapels, in George-street,
John-street, and South Silver-street ; a Glassite
chapel, in St. Andrew's-street ; a Quakers' meeting-
house, in Gallowgate ; a Unitarian chapel, in
George-street; and a Roman Catholic church,
served by the bishop of the northern district of
Scotland, and two assistants, in Huntly-street.
In the times before the Reformation, there was a
St. Mary's chapel, under the East church ; there was
a St. Catherine's chapel founded in 1242, and situ-
ated on St. Catherine's-hill ; and there was a St.
Ninian's chapel situated on the Castle-hill. The
Black friars had their establishment on the School-
hill, where Gordon's hospital and the Grammar-
school now stand ; the Carmelite, or White friars'
monastery, was on the south side of the Green,
near Carmelite-street; and the Greyfriars in Broad-
street, where the Marischal college and Greyfriars
church are now situated.
The City op New Aberdeen is a place of great
spirit, bustle, and magnificence, every way worthy
of its high honours as the seat of an university, the
seat of much manufacture and commerce, and the
fourth greatest town in all Scotland, and by far the
first in the north. It fascinates all strangers, and
ABERDEEN.
9
ABERDEEN.
does so chiefly by its own power, or through the
effects of the industry and the arts of its citizens;
for it possesses none of the thrilling brilliance or
grand pieturesqueness of site and surrounding
scenery which distinguishes Inverness, Perth, Stir-
ling, Edinburgh, and so many other famous Scottish
towns. The approach to it by sea lies along a bleak
sandy coast, with low rocks and long reefs on the
foreground, and a tame unfeatured surface on the
background, and becomes interesting only at the
point of sudden ingress among the crowded ship-
ping of the harbour. The land approach from the
south, too, traverses a broad, low, moorish outskirt
of the Grampians, and is all utterly dismal till it
bursts at once on a near view of the Dee and the
citv. But the contrast there is most striking; and
an impression is instantly produced on an intelli-
gent stranger, which subsequent acquaintance with
the place thoroughly confirms, that wonders have
been worked by art both within the city and on the
surrounding soil. Three interesting walks, of four
or five miles each, may be had among the environs.
The first goes to Old Aberdeen, and up the Don,
past Grandholm and through Woodside, and returns
to the city by the Inverness road; the second goes
bv the Lunatic Asylum, on the north-west side of
the city, to the Stocket-hill, where the best view of
the city and the surrounding country is obtained,
and proceeds thence to the great granite quarries of
Rubislaw, and returns by the Skene turnpike road ;
and the third goes south-westward to the Old
Bridge of Dee, and passes down the right bank of
the Dee to G-irdleness lighthouse, and crosses by
the ferry to Footdee.
The first dwelling-houses of Aberdeen were pro-
bably a few rude huts near the spot where Trinity
church now stands. The ground next occupied
was probably in the neighbourhood of the castle
and the green ; and the town gradually extended in
the direction of the Ship-row, the Exchequer-row,
and the south side of Castlegate. But in the 14th
century the town was almost totally destroyed by
an English army under Edward III.; and a grand
extension of it then took place over the eminences of
Castle-hill, Port-hill, St. Catherine's-hill, and Wool-
man-hill; and this took the name of New Aberdeen,
not in contradistinction to the kirktown of Old
Machar, which now bears the name of Old Aber-
deen, but in contradistinction to the old town on the
Dee which the English had destroyed. Even the
new town, however, with the exception of its public
structures, was rude and insubstantial ; and not till
ages after did it acquire any regularity of alignment
or urbanity of appearance. In 1545 a stone edifice
was considered a mark of great opulence ; and so
late as 1741 the houses on the west side of the
Broadgate were constructed of wood. Westwards
of the Gallowgate, there was, till the latter part of
last century, a large fenny marsh, called the Loch,
which must have occupied a large portion of the
north-west quarter of the present city. The very
best streets, too, till then and afterwards, were nar-
row and unlevel, and had no better pavement than
a causeway of round stones; and the parts of the
town most favourable to drainage and ventilation
on the Den-burn and toward the south-west, were
huddlements of houses so chokingly close to one
another, and so abominably filthy, as to render it
difficult to conceive how they could be ever free
from pestilence; and the only egresses to the Dee
and to the north were by steep, rough, suffocating
thoroughfares, which persons accustomed to the
modern conveniences of the city would think it a
dire penance to go through. And even to the pre-
sent hour, indeed, there are remains of this state of
things within the city, in no fewer than about 60
narrow lanes, and no fewer than about 168 courts
or closes, of an average breadth of not more than
7 feet.;
But about the end of last century a great change
began; and it rapidly gave the city grand new fea-
tures, and at the same time set its finest old ones in
advantageous lights. First, a street was opened
from Broad-street to North-street, so as to form an
improved outlet to the north. Next, Marischal-
street was opened from Castle-street to the quay ;
and, though rather inconveniently steep, it is inter-
esting both for being still a great thoroughfare
from the centre of the city to the harbour, and for
being the first street in Aberdeen which was paved
with dressed stones. Next, a new and important
exit to the north-west was obtained by opening
George-street through the middle of the loch, to
communicate with a new turnpike road to Inverury.
Next, two grand new exits were made, from the
middle of the town at Castle-street, by respectively
Union-street to the south-west, and King-street to
the north, — two projects which were estimated by
the engineer to cost the town council about £42,000,
but which soon actually cost them £171,280, and
then involved them in bankruptcy. And contem-
poraneously with these, and also subsequently,
there were other great improvements which we
shall have occasion to glance at when noticing the
public buildings and the harbour.
The edifices of Aberdeen, both public and private,
are for the most part constructed of a wavy fine
granite from the neighbouring quarries; and those
of the modern and principal streets are so clean, so
massive, so uniformly surfaced, and reflect the light
so clearly from the glittering mica of the granite as
to look, on a sunny day, as if they had just been
hewn and polished from the rocks on which they
stand. Union-street is about a mile long, spacious,
straight, elegantly edificed, well-gemmed with pub-
lic buildings, and altogether one of the finest streets
of the empire; and at the same time runs on a
higher level than the portions of the town on its
southern flank, and looks over the tops of their
houses to a pleasant prospect of the south side of the
Dee. It is carried over two of the old streets of the
town, and over the ravine of the Den-burn, which
formerly caused vast inconvenience to the thorough-
fare; and there it is sustained by a magnificent bridge
of three arches, — two of them covered and concealed
and of 50 feet each in span, and the other open, 132
feet in span, and surmounted with cornice, parapet,
and balustrades. This bridge cost £13,342. St.
Nicholas-street leads airily from Union-street to
George-street on the north-west. Market-street is
wide, short, and moderately steep; leads direct
from Union-street to the harbour ; and, in 1865,
was in process of being built with houses of a
superior character. Castle-street is a large oblong
square, the Place of the City, rich in public orna-
mental structures, and taking its name from an
ancient fortress which stood on a rising ground on
its eastern side. King-street is little inferior in
splendour to Union-street, and has also several
handsome public buildings. Broad-street is the
site of Marischal college ; and the house in it, No.
64, was the residence of Lord Byron, while under
his mother's care. The other streets do not chal-
lenge particular notice, but may be described in
the aggregate as at least equal to the second and
the third class streets of most stone-built towns in
Britain.
The West and East churches stand on the north
side of Union-street, amid a cemetery of nearly two
acres in area, which is separated from the street by
ABERDEEN.
10
ABERDEEN.
a very beautiful Ionic facade. The West church is
a plain structure, in the Italian style, and contains
a stone effigy of Sir Robert Davidson, provost of
Aberdeen, who fell at Harlaw in 1411, — a curious
brass plate, in memory of Dr. Duncan Liddell,
founder of the mathematics chair in Marischal col-
lege,— and a fine white marble monument, executed
by Bacon, at the cost of £1,200, in memory of a
ladv. The East church is a masterly and much-
admired Gothic structure, nearly after the model of
the fine old relic of mediaeval architecture which it
replaced. The two churches are separated from
each other by the original transept of the old church
of St. Nicholas, now called Drum's Aisle, in conse-
quence of being the burial-place of the ancient fa-
mily of that name; and this is surmounted by a
square tower and spire, 140 feet high, containing a
set of very finely toned bells. In the cemetery lie
the mortal remains of the poet of ' the Minstrel,' of
Principal Campbell, of the learned Blackwell, and
of Dr. Hamilton, the author of a work on the Na-
tional Debt. — Greyfriars church stands in a court
adjacent to Marischal college, behind some lofty
houses which separate it from Broad-street; and is a
plain ancient Gothic hall, with a modern aisle on its
east side. The General Assembly of 1640 was held
here; and the town-council, on that occasion, made
lavish outlay on the church and otherwise in order
to do the assembly honour. — St. Clement's church,
at Footdee, is a neat Gothic building of 1828, sur-
rounded by a cemetery. The South church, in Bel-
mont-street, is a Gothic structure of 1831, with
massive gables and tower. The North church, in
King-street, was built in 1826, at a cost of £10,500,
and is an oblong edifice in the Ionic style, with a
circular tower 150 feet high. The Free East, West,
and South churches, in Belrnout-street, form an im-
posing cruciform pile, with a graceful brick spire.
St. Andrew's Episcopal church, in King-street, was
built in 1817, at a cost of £8,000, is a handsome
sandstone Gothic structure, and contains a statue
of Bishop John Skinner by Flaxman. St. Mary's
Episcopal church, in Garden-place, was built shortly
before 1865, is in the early pointed style, and has a
very rich interior. The Independent chapel, in
Belmont-street, was built in 1865, at a cost of
£3,200, and is in the Romanesque style. The Ro-
man Catholic church, in Huntly-street, is a recent
edifice in the early English pointed style, and is ex-
tensive and imposing.
The Town-house stands on the north side of
Castle-street, and was erected in 1730. It is a
plain edifice, containing town-hall, council cham-
ber, and other apartments ; and on its east end is
an old square tower, now faced up in a very taste-
ful manner with dressed granite, and isisurmounted
by an elegant spire of 120 feet in height. The
Court-house adjoins the town-hall, and was erected
in 1818. A new suite of Municipal and County
buildings was projected near the end of 1865 ; to
occupy the site of the Town-house and Court-house,
but to retain the tower; to present a frontage of 200
feet to Union-street, and one of 115 feet to Broad-
street; and to have, at its southwest angle, a tower
28 feet square, surmounted by turrets and a lofty
lantern gablet. The style is French Gothic, inter-
mingled with Scottish baronial ; and the estimated
cost was £60,000. — The Music-hall buildings are
westward of the bridge in Union-street ; include
the quondam county buildings, erected in 1820 at
a cost of £11,500; and have a new splendid hall,
added at a cost of £5,000, opened by the late Prince
Consort, capable of accommodating nearly 3,000
persons, and containing a very fine organ. — The
cross, one of the most beautiful structures of its
kind, stands in the middle of the upper end of Cas-
tle-street. It is an hexagonal building, richly orna-
mented with large medallions of the kings of Scot-
land from James I. to James VII. ; and from the
centre springs a splendid column of the composite
order, and surmounted by an unicorn bearing on
its breast a scutcheon charged with the Scottish
lion. It was the work of John Montgomery, a
country mason from the village of Old Rayne,
and was originally erected in 1686, on the site
of a more ancient cross, at the top of a smooth
pavement, opposite the entrance of the Court-house,
but, in 1842, for the sake of better effect, it was re-
built where it now stands, with great improvements
in style, and on a basement of several feet in height
above the level of the street, and surrounded by
an iron railing. — A colossal statue of the late Duke
of Gordon, formed after a model by Campbell of
London, stands about 30 feet in front of the cross,
and nearly in the centre of Castle-street. The
figure, hewn from a single block of granite,, mea-
sures, including the plinth, 11 feet 3 inches; and
the pedestal, a block of red granite, is 10 feet 3
inches in height. — A bronze statue of the late
Prince Consort, by Baron Marochitti, stands in a
circular recess at the south end of Union terrace,
on the west side of Union bridge. It represents
the Prince seated, wearing various orders, with a
scroll in one hand, and his field-marshal's hat in
the other. The statue itself measures 6A feet in
height, and is placed on a pedestal of polished
Peterhead granite 8 feet high. The likeness is not
considered good. The statue is a memorial one by
the town and county of Aberdeen, and was publicly
inaugurated on 13 October, 1863, in presence of the
Queen.
The Jail is situated immediately behind the
Court-house, and was built in 1831. It is 129 feet
in length, and 98 in breadth, and contains 69 cells
and 6 day-rooms ; and within its precincts is a
court divided into six compartments, with the turn-
key's lodge in the centre. — The West prison stands
near the west end of Union-street, and was erected
in 1809, at the expense of nearly £12,000. It is a
large castellated building, within a square area of
nearly two Scotch acres, surrounded by a high en-
closing wall, and containing 112 cells, besides two
sick-rooms, and 8 small adjoining dormitories, and
having attached to it a house occupied by the
chaplain, and other accommodations. It has not
been used as a prison since 1863, the other jail af-
fording accommodation for all the criminals under
confinement. — The Barrack stands on the crest of
the Castle-hill, above the Waterloo quay, and was
built in 1796. It has an appropriate and command-
ing appearance, and contains quarters for about
600 men.
The Old Bridge of Dee, though situated about a
mile south-west of the landward extremity of Union-
street, belongs really to the city, both because it is
under the sole management of the town council, and
because it is connected with the city by a chain of
interesting suburbs; and till quite recently, it was
also the line of the only great thoroughfare to the
south of Scotland. Bishop Elphinstone left a con-
siderable legacy to build a bridge over the river
Dee, near Aberdeen, but died in 1514, before any-
thing was done towards it. Gavin Dunbar, son of
Sir James Dunbar of Cumnock, by Elizabeth, daugh-
ter of the Earl of Sutherland, having succeeded to
the bishopric of Aberdeen in 1518, fulfilled his pre-
decessor's intentions, and erected the greater part of
the bridge where it now stands, about the year 1 530.
This bridge having gone into decay, was restored
out of the funds belonging to itself, between the
ABERDEEN.
11
ABERDEEN.
years 1720 and 1724; ami again it was widened
from 15 to 26 feet, at an expense of £7,250, in 1842;
and on the latter occasion, the facing of the en-
larged side was carefully taken down and replaced
so as to maintain unimpaired the old character of
the masonry. The bridge is a fine structure of
seven arches; and in the times of the ecclesiastical
civil wars, it was the scene of more than one tough
contest between the Covenanters and their oppres-
sors.— A suspension bridge, called the Wellington
bridge, was, in 1829, erected over the Dee at Craig-
lug, 2,600 yards below the old bridge; and is a very
splendid structure of 140 feet in span. — The viaduct
of the Aberdeen railway across the Dee is one of
the most magnificent things of its kind in Scotland,
and a fine addition to the many striking architec-
tural features of Aberdeen, but unhappily is so near
the Wellington bridge as to make its relative posi-
tion awkward, and to produce a confusing effect on
the spectator. It was erected after a design by
Messrs. Locke and Errington, and, from the pecu-
liar difficulties attending its construction over a vo-
luminous, rapid, and shifting river, causing more
than one alteration in its foundations, is not the
least creditable among the substantial and elegant
achievements of modem engineering. — An excellent
drawbridge goes across the harbour, opposite the
foot of Marischal-street, to a group of small islands
now united and called the Inches.
The entrance of Market-street into Union-street
is adorned with piazzas. The Market-house stands
on the west side of Market-street, and is unequalled,
for extent, design, and finish, by any structure of
its class in Scotland. It was projected by a joint-
stock company, and opened in April 1842. It mea-
sures 315 feet in length, 106 feet in breadth, and 45
feet in height; and is divided into a basement floor,
a main floor, and galleries, with a wide and deep
flight of steps leading down to the first; and is also
divided into three alleys by two ranges of massive
pillars; and has in its centre a large fountain of
finely polished granite. — The Post-office stands on
the east side of Market-street, and is a building of
1841, erected with the aid of £2,000 from govern-
ment.— The Corn-exehange is in Hadden-street,
south of Market-street, and consists of a large hall
with committee-room ; and, except during market-
hours on Fridays, the hall is occupied as a public
news-room. — The office of the North of Scotland
Banking Company stands in Castle-street, adjacent
to the east side of the town-house tower, and is an
elegant structure of dressed granite, built in 1839
at a cost of £14,000, with a Corinthian portico, in
a minuteness and delicacy of execution which no
previous granite building ever displayed. — The
office of the Union Banking Company stands in
the same street, on the opposite side, and is a chaste
handsome building. — The Athenseum or Public
Newsroom, stands at the west end of Castle-street,
and is an elegant structure, erected in 1822. It is
liberally supplied with newspapers and periodicals.
— A handsome club-house, on the same principle as
the London clubs, is in Market-street. — The Aber-
deen Town and Count}'- Bank stands at the junction
of St. Nicholas-street with Union-street; was erect-
ed in 1863, at a cost of £14,000; is a splendid edi-
fice, in the Roman classic style; and has a telling-
room, surmounted by a fine dome, beautifully
lighted, and altogether one of the finest rooms of
its kind in Scotland. — The Advocates' hall is in
Union-street, west of the churchyard. — The Com-
mercial Bank and the County Record office are in
King-street. — The theatre is in Marischal-street. —
The chief hotels of the city are the Royal, Douglas's,
St. Nicholas, the Lemon-Tree, Forsyth's Temper-
ance, the Queen's, the Adelphi, and the City; and,
in a general view, they are situated pretty near the
centre of the town.
The Infirmary is a large, modern, splendid Gre-
cian building, erected at different dates, and at a
great expense. It consists of a centre and two
wings, and contains accommodation for 2 1 0 patients.
It has twenty large, lofty, well-aired wards, and
eleven smaller apartments for cases requiring separ-
ate treatment ; and contains every kind of con-
venience which can be found in the most approved
hospitals in the empire. Behind the main hospital,
and within the grounds, are a convalescent hospital,
and accommodation for fever patients; also a pa-
thological museum, under the superintendence of a
well-qualified curator. The students of the Aber-
deen medical school, who have in late years taken
a very high rank in competitions for army medical
appointments, walk the hospital ; and several of
the professors are Infirmary physicians and sur-
geons.— The Lunatic Asylum stands about half-a-
mile north-west of the city ; has grounds extending
to about 45 acres, tastefully laid out and richly
wooded ; and has been constituted a district asylum
for the county of Aberdeen. The main building
was erected in 1819, at a cost of £13,135 ; of which
£10,000 was a bequest by John Forbes of Newe;
but, with the exception of that bequest, it was
built, and has been maintained, by public contri-
butions A new building, called Elmhill House, for
private patients, was erected in 1862, at a cost of
£20,000 ; and is a handsome edifice in the Italian
villa style, with its rooms comfortably and even ele-
gantly fitted up in the manner of a private man-
sion. The pleasantly retired situation of the build-
ings, and the high professional character of the
resident medical superintendent, Dr. Jamieson, have
secured for the asylum a large measure of public
favour and support. The average number of pa-
tients during the year 1864-5 was 360. The Hall
of the Medical Society stands in King-street. It
was built in 1820, and contains a large library and
a museum.
The Grammar School has long held a high place
among the institutions of Aberdeen, both for its
antiquity and for the character of the education
given within its walls. It can be traced back as
far as 1418 ; and, under its modern rectors, particu-
larly the late Dr. Melvin, one of the first Latinists
of his day, it has enjoyed a high reputation as a
classical school. Till 1863, its buildings, which
were of a very unpretentious character, stood in
School Hill; but in that year, under the auspices of
Sir Alexander Anderson, Lord Provost, to whom the
city owes many of its improvements, a new edifice
was built in Skene-street-west, at a cost of £15,000;
and this is a very handsome structure, in the old
Scotch baronial style, with fine public school and
superior class-rooms. The course of instruction
also has been expanded. While formerly there
were only a rector and three classical masters, there
are now likewise teachers of mathematics, of Eng-
lish, and of modern languages ; and the curriculum
extends over five or alternately six years. — Gordon's
Hospital confronts the School Hill. This is an in-
stitution of similar origin and character to Heriot's
Hospital in Edinburgh. It comprises a handsome
central building, erected in 1739 at the expense of
£3,300, and two wings, with neat connecting colon-
nade, erected in 1834, at the expense of about
£14,000, and has a lawn in front. Robert Gordon,
merchant in Aberdeen, by deed of mortification, of
date 13th December, 1729, and 19th September,
1730, founded this hospital for the maintenance
and education of indigent boys, being the sons and
ABERDEEN.
12
ABERDEEN.
grandsons of burgesses of guild of Aberdeen, or
the sons and grandsons of tradesmen of the burgh,
being freemen or burgesses thereof; and for the
purposes of it he assigned his whole estate, per-
sonal and real, to the magistrates and the four min-
isters of Aberdeen, whom he appointed perpetual
patrons and governors of the hospital. There are
at present 150 boys maintained and educated in this
institution. Boys must not be under 9 years of age
when admitted; and must leave at 16, when they
are put to proper trades, under the direction of the
governors. The funds were enlarged by a great
bequest in 1816 from Alexander Simpson, Esq. of
Colliehill ; and they now amount to about £60,000.
— The Female Orphan Asylum or Orphan Girls'
Hospital stands on the west side of the city. It is
an institution for girls similar to what Gordon's is
for boys; and owes its origin and maintenance to a
gift of £26,000, in 1836, by Mrs. Elmslie, then a
widow lady residing in London, but a native of
Aberdeen- The Free Church college, in Alford-
place, near the Orphan asylum, was built in 1850,
at a cost of £2,000, and is an edifice in the Tudor
style, with a square tower and an octagonal turret.
The other institutions of Aberdeen, educational,
benevolent, religious, literary, and miscellaneous,
are very many and various, and do great honour to
the city. The chief are the mechanics' institution,
in Market-street, with excellent library, several
free schools, several largely endowed schools,
several partially endowed schools, a boys' hospital,
a girls' hospital, Carnegie's female orphan hospital,
male and female industrial schools, a house of
refuge, a mechanics' institution, a trades' hospital,
a deaf and dumb institution, an asylum for the
blind, a magdalene asylum, a number of mortifica-
tions and funds for behoof of the poor and the sick
and the aged, a ladies' working society, a clothing
society, a sick man's friend society, an aged and
indigent females' society, a general dispensary, a
savings' bank, a seamen's friend society, many
missionary, tract, and Sabbath-school societies, five
pub ic libraries, several subscription libraries, a
medical society, an advocates' society, a shipmas-
ters' society, and the Royal Northern agricultural
society.
But immensely the grandest institution, while it
existed as a separate institution, was Marischal
college. This was founded by George Keith, fifth
Earl-Mai'ischal, in April 1593. According to the
deed of foundation, it was to consist of a principal,
three teachers denominated regents, six alumni,
and two inferior persons, viz., an economist and a
cook. The principal was required to be well-in-
structed in sacred literature, and to be skilled in
Hebrew and Syriae ; he was also to be able to give
anatomical and physiological prelections. The first
regent was specially to teach ethics and mathe-
matics ; the second, logic ; the third, Latin and
Greek. The Earl reserved to himself and his heirs
the nomination to professorships ; the examination
and admission of the persons so named being vested
in the chancellor, the rector, the dean of faculty, and
the principal of King's college, the ministers of new
Aberdeen, and the ministers of Deer and Fetteresso.
The foundation was confirmed by the General As-
sembly which met in the same month in which it
was framed ; and a few months after a confirma-
tion was given by parliament. A charter of con-
firmation was granted by William, Earl-Marischal,
in 1623 ; and a new confirmation by Charles II., in
1661. In all these charters, however, it was spe-
cially declared that the masters, members, students
and bursars, of the said college, should be subject
to the jurisdiction of the burgh-magistrates. An
additional regent was appointed within a few years
after the institution of the college ; a professorship
of divinity was founded in 1616 ; and a mathemati-
cal professorship three years before. In 1753, the
Senatus academicus directed that the students after
being instructed in classical learning, should be
made acquainted with natural and civil history,
geography, chronology, and the elements of mathe-
matics ; that they should then proceed to natural
philosophy, and terminate their curriculum by
studying moral philosophy. This plan of study,
with a few alterations, was afterwards continued ;
and seven other professorships, at different periods
subsequent to that of divinity, were added.
Marischal college, as noted in our account of Old
Aberdeen, has, under the University act of 1858,
been united with King's college into one university,
with a new constitution. The library, in 1827, con-
tained 11,000 volumes; and the principal and pro-
fessors had a right, under a decision of the Court
of Session in 1738, to the use of the books transmit-
ted from Stationers' hall to the library of King'3
college. Since 1827, the Marischal college library
has been considerably enriched, having received,
among other gifts, the valuable classical collection
of the late Dr. James Melvin. Among the most
eminent alumni of Marischal college were Gilbert
Burnett, afterwards bishop of Salisbury, who took
his degree of M.A. here in 1657 ; James Gregory,
the inventor of the reflecting telescope ; George
Jamesone, the father of painting in Scotland, and
who has been called the Scottish Vandyke; Dr.
Arbuthnot, the friend of Pope; Colin Maclaurin,
the mathematician; and Dr. Reid, the metaphysician.
The original buildings of Marischal college were
those of the Franciscan convent. A new edifice,
retaining with it some of the old, was erected in the
latter part of the 17th century; and an extension
of it to supersede the retained parts of the old, was
built in 1740-41. But the whole was insubstantial
and in constant need of repair ; and it was replaced,
on the same site, in 1837-41, by a very extensive
and most imposing pile, erected partly by subscrip-
tion but chiefly by grant from government, at an
expense of £21,420. This new structure is built of
the very hard and durable white granite quarried
in the vicinity, and is in a simple and bold style of
the collegiate Gothic architecture, to suit the capa-
bilities of the material. It forms three sides of a
quadrangle, rises to the height of two lofty stories,
and presents uniform and striking ranges of mul-
lioned windows. A square tower rises from the
centre, and terminates in four ornamented turrets
at the height of about 100 feet from the ground.
Open arcades extend on both sides of the principal
entrance, 48 feet long and 16 feet wide. The public
school is on the ground floor, 74 feet long and 34
feet wide; and a lofty staircase, with a ceiling of
enriched groins and a massive stone balustrade,
leads to the hall, 71 feet by 34, and to the library
and the museum, each 75 feet by 34, and all 32 feet
high, with ornamental ceilings painted in imitation
of oak. There are also seventeen class-rooms and
a number of other apartments. An obelisk stands
in the area of the quadrangle, with base 16 feet
square and 6 feet high, pedestal 9 feet square and
11 feet high, plinth 7 feet square and 3 feet high,
shaft from 5 to 3$ feet square and 52 feet high, all
of polished Peterhead granite; erected in 1860 to
the memory of Sir James M'Grigor, Bart., who was
several times rector of the college, and 36 years
director-general of the army medical department.
The principal manufacture of Aberdeen, prior to
the year 1745, was knitted stockings, which were
mostly exported to Holland, and thence dispersed
ABERDEEN.
13
ABERDEEN.
through Germany. The linen manufacture was
subsequently introduced, and now employs between
2,000 and 3,000 bauds. The articles chiefly manu-
factured are thread, sailcloth, osnaburgs, brown lin-
ens, and sacking. The manufacture of sailcloth only
commenced in 1795. — In the beginning of last cen-
tury, the woollen manufactures of Aberdeenshire
were chiefly coarse slight cloths, called plaidcns
and fingroms, which were sold from 5d. to 8d. per
ell, and stockings from 8d. to 2s. 6d. per pair.
These were manufactured by the farmers and cot-
tagers from the wool of their own sheep, and by
the citizens from wool brought to the market from
the higher parts of the country. These goods were
mostly exported to Hamburg. Blankets, serges,
stockings, twisted yarns, and carpets, are now
manufactured. There were, in 1838, 1,000 looms
employed on linen, of which four-fifths were in
factories, 130 on cotton, and 300 on woollen car-
pets. The number of linen and cotton looms has
since greatly diminished, and the woollen manu-
facture has increased. The latter includes the
manufacture of winceys, for which Aberdeen has,
of late years, obtained a distinguished reputation.
Banner mill, which employs about 650 hands, is
now the only cotton mill. Wincey-weaving gives
employment to several hundreds of persons. Messrs.
Hadden and Sons employ about a thousand in
woollen manufacture ; and Messrs. Crombie, at
Grandholm mills, about seven hundred. There are
several breweries; and porter and ales in consid-
erable quantities are annually exported to America
and the West Indies. There are also several dis-
tilleries. There are likewise, at Ferryhill, Foot-
dee, &c., extensive iron-works, at which steam-
engines, anchors, chains, cables, and all kinds of
machinery are manufactured. Ship-building has
long been extensively and successfully carried on;
and the invention of the famous "clipper bow" was
the work of one of the local firms, the Messrs.
Hall. Seven firms, including one newly com-
menced in 1865, are engaged in iron ship-building;
and, during the year ending in May, 1865, eleven
vessels of aggregately 8,385 tons were launched,
while thirteen others were in progress. The cattle
and meat trade has become very extensive ; and
the computed value of live stock and dead beef and
mutton, forwarded to the southern markets, chiefly
London, is about £1,000,000 a-year. Rope-mak-
ing, paper-making, and the manufacturing of soap,
combs, and leather are also carried on ; and there
is a large and increasing trade in the exportation
of corn, butter, and eggs to London. Salmon fish-
ing is also carried on to a great extent, the fish
being principally sent to London packed in ice.
Aberdeen salmon appear to have been exported to
England so early as 1281. Towards the end of
the 17th century, Aberdeen annually exported 360
barrels of 250 lbs. each to the continent. From
1822 to 1828, inclusive, being a period of seven
years, 42,654 boxes of salmon, chiefly the produce
of the Dee and the Don rivers, but including some
Spey salmon, were shipped at Aberdeen ; and from
1829 to 1835, inclusive, 65,260 boxes. The salmon
fishings, however, have somewhat declined. Whit-
ings, or finnocks, and haddocks are also taken, and
made an article of trade to the London market. See
articles Dee and Don. In 1819 the feu-duties of
the whole fishing amounted to £27 7s. sterling, and
it was stated in the House of Commons committee
thatthey were then worth £10,000 per annum. The
granite quarries near Aberdeen, which have con-
tributed so much to the decoration of the town,
afford also a staple commodity for exportation. The
freight to London is about 8s. per ton ; and the
vessels in returning generally bring coals from
Sunderland.
The banks in Aberdeen are the head offices of the
Aberdeen Town and County Bank, and the North
of Scotland Banking Company, an office of the
Union Bank, with which is now incorporated the
old Aberdeen Bank, and branch offices of the Bank
of Scotland, the British Linen Company, the Com-
mercial Bank, the National Bank, the Koyal Bank,
and the City of Glasgow Bank. Four newspapers
are published in Aberdeen — the Aberdeen Journal
every Wednesday, the Aberdeen Herald every
Saturday, the Aberdeen Free Press every Tuesday
and Friday, and the Northern Advertiser every
Tuesday. The Aberdeen Journal is the oldest of
these, and was established in 1746. Aberdeen
almanacks have long been celebrated. It appears
that these useful manuals were printed here so
early as 1626 — and probably some years earlier—
by Edward Raban, a printer originally from St.
Andrews. A club, called the Spalding Club, and
constituted similarly to the Bannatyne Club of
Edinburgh, was formed a good many years ago in
Aberdeen for printing select and curious historical
and literary remains of the north-east of Scotland.
Aberdeen contains the head offices of the Scottish
Provincial Assurance Company, and the Northern
Assurance Company, and agency offices of not fewer
than about 40 other insurance companies. A weekly
grain market is held on Friday. A linen market is
held on the Green on the last Wednesday of April;
a wool market is held in the same place on Thursday
and Friday of the first week of June and of the first
and second weeks of July ; a market for wooden
utensils is held in Castle-street on the last Wednes-
daj' of August; but none of the markets, except
the weekly one, is now of importance. Hiring
markets are held in Castle-street on several Fridays
about the Whitsunday and Martinmas half-yearly
terms.
The chief communications are by the North-
eastern, the Deeside, the Great North of Scotland,
the Aberdeen and Banff, and the Formartine and
Buchan railways. A junction between the North-
eastern and the Deeside is at Ferryhill; but ajunc-
tion between these on the south and the others on
the north seemed long to be unattainable, and was
for a good many years a subject of discussion. The
distance between the Northeastern's terminus at
Guild-street, at the top of the harbour, and the
Great North's terminus at Waterloo-quay — a dis-
tance of one-eight of a mile, along crowded quays,
'with no means of transit but by omnibus — was felt,
especially by through travellers, to be very incon-
venient. Numerous plans to effect a junction were
tried and relinquished. But at length, in June,
1865, under the powers of the Denburn Junction
Railway act, a junction railway from the North-
eastern above the terminus to the Great North's
Kittybrewster station, was begun to be formed, and
was to be completed in two years. This is a mile
and three-quarters long ; it goes up the valley of
the Denburn, under Union- bridge, and is taken by
one tunnel under Woolmanhill, and by another
under Maberley-street ; and, owing to the necessity
of purchasing valuable property on its route, it was
computed to cost probably not less than at the rate
of £100,000 per mile.
In 1656, when Tucker visited Scotland, there were
9 vessels belonging to Aberdeen, of a total burden
of 440 tons; in 1839, the vessels belonging to the
port of Aberdeen, as distinct from those of Peter-
head, Stonehaven, and Newburgh, amounted to 254,
of 30,032 tons; and in 1864 there were 251 sailing
vessels of aggregately 77,440 tons, and 16 steam
ABERDEEN.
14
ABERDEEN.
vessels of aggregately 3,373 tons. In the year
ending 30th September, 1852, 2,194 vessels entered
the port, having an aggregate tonnage of 298,418;
and in the year ending 30th September, 1864,
2,380 vessels entered, having an aggregate tonnage
of 372,230. The imports, in 1864, comprised 176,980
tons of coal, 96,445 bolls of lime, 2,370 tons of flax
and tow, 562 tons of hemp, 790 tons of wool, 26,487
loads of wood, 2,265 qrs. of oats, 37,230 qrs. of
wheat, 13,038 sacks of flour, 2.521 tons of salt,
9,905 tons of iron, 10,863 tons of bones, and 6,046
tons of guano, besides other goods ; and the ex-
ports, in the same year, comprised 22,638 b. b. of
flax-manufacture, 107 b. b. of cotton manufacture,
6,184 b. b. of woollen-manufacture, 185,298 qrs. of
oats, barley, and bear, 99,035 bolls of oatmeal,
4,021 cattle, 153 horses, 7,913 sheep and lambs,
2,745 pigs, 18,007 cwt.of pork, 38,781 tons of granite-
stones, 20,826 Scotch pine timber, 1,059 cwt. of
butter, 5,115 b. b. of eggs, and 807 b. b. of salmon.
The amount of customs, in 1862, was £92,963 ; in
1863, £82,838. All the coast trade northward to
Thurso, Stornoway, and Lerwick, and southward to
Granton, Newcastle, Hull, and London, is mightily
facilitated by powerful steamers.
The harbour of Aberdeen was originally nothing
more than an expanse of water, communicating with
the sea by a narrow and shallow mouth ; and the
earliest artificial erection within the port was a bul-
wark extending from the Ship-row southward.
In 1607, the erection of a pier on the south side of
the channel was begun; in 1623, the extension of the
wharf to near the present canal was commenced; in
1775, the new pier was begun; and from 1810 till
about 1862,aseriesof vast improvements was effected
at an aggregate cost of about £500,000, making the
harbour of Aberdeen one of the most commodious in
Scotland. The chief features have been an exten-
sion of the pier to the length of 900 feet, the con-
struction of a breakwater on the opposite side to the
extent of 800 feet, the erection of wharfs on the
south-west side of Footdee, the enlarging of the old
pier opposite Torrie, the extension of the old quay
westward, the embanking of the Inches and con-
verting them into quays, the forming of the massive
Waterloo quay where the large steamers are berthed,
and the forming within a reach of the river a set of
magnificent wet docks. In 1864 the shore dues
amounted to £23,983 ; the total income of the har-
bour to £30,723; and the total expenditure to £17, 593,
leaving a clear surplus of £13,226. In 1852 the debt
on the harbour-trust stood at £282,173 ; in 1864, by
the application of surplus revenue to its liquidation,
it had been reduced to £188,200.
The town council of New Aberdeen consists of 19
members, including a provost, four bailies, and a
dean of guild. The corporation became bankrupt
in 1817 ; and the average annual revenue for the
five years preceding Michaelmas 1832 was £15,184,
the total average annual expenditure £17,528. The
town's affairs are now rapidly retrieving, under the
management of a popularly elected magistracy.
The real property of the city was valued in 1858 at
£179,072; and the corporation revenue in 1863-4
was about £11,376. The lighting and watching are
under the charge of commissioners ; and the general
police is regulated byan actpassedin 1862. The gas
works are situated in the Footdee district. The
supply of water, for a good many years, was obtained
by pumping from the river at the Bridge of Dee.
The continued growth of the city, however, made
the supply altogether inadequate ; and, in 1862, the
Commissioners of police obtained powers for carry-
ing out a scheme to supply water by gravitation.
Plans were prepared by James Simpson, C. E.,
London, to form an aqueduct 22 miles in length,
with intake of water at Cairnton on the Dee, at an
elevation of 210 feet above high water at Aberdeen
docks. The aqueduct passes from the intake through
a rocky tunnel half-a-mile in length, on to a reser-
voir capable of containing 35,000,000 gallons at
Invercanny a mile onward. There are also, at the
lower end, near Aberdeen, a reservoir of the capa-
city of 6,000,000 gallons, at an elevation of 161
feet above sea-level at the docks, and one of less
capacity on a higher level to supply the higher
districts of the town. The construction of the
works was undertaken by Mr. Easton Gibb for
£103,999. They were begun in the spring of 1864,
and were to be finished in two and a half years;
and they will amply supply the city with water.
The act for them also gives powers to carry out, for
the city, an improved system of sewerage. Thecityis
well situated for effectual drainage; but, except in a
few of the principal streets, built within the present
century, it has no large common sewers. The only
cemeteries within the city are those of St. Nicholas
and St. Clement; and these are being forsaken for
cemeteries in the suburbs. Overcrowded dwelling
apartments are not uncommon. The trades' corpora-
tions in the city are the hammermen, the tailors, the
bakers, the wrights, the cordwainers, the weavers,
and the fleshers ; and they possess valuable funds,
belonging partly to the general body, and partly to
each corporation. The general funds include
Trades Hospital, which, in 1864, yielded a revenue
of £1,400, the proceeds being divisible among old
men members of the craft, and the widows' fund,
yielding a revenue of £900. The gross yearly
revenue of the separate funds amounts to not less
than £6,000 ; and there are also school and bursary
funds. The sheriff court for the county is held iii
the court-house in Aberdeen on Wednesdays and
Fridays, the small debt court on Thursdays, and
the Commissary court on Wednesdays, at 10 o'clock;
and the general quarter sessions are held there on
the first Tuesday of March, May, and August, and on
the last Tuesday of October. The burgh of New
Aberdeen formerly united with Montrose, Brechin,
Arbroath, and Bernie to send a member to parlia-
ment; but the present parliamentary burgh of
Aberdeen, which includes all the parish of Old
Machar south of the Don, and a very small part
of the parish of Banchory - Devenick, sends a
member for itself. The constituency of the
royal burgh in 1861, was 2,701; in 1864, 2,825.
The constituency of the parliamentary burgh in
1861, was 3,586; in 1865, 4,008. The popu-
lation, in 1861, of the entire royal burgh, was
54,376 ; of the part of it within Old Machar,
12,514; of barracks, prison, hospitals, and other
institutions, 1,971. Houses of the whole, 3,869;
of the Old Machar part, 1,158. The popula-
tion of the parliamentary burgh, in 1831, was
58,019 ; in 1841, 63,262 ; in 1861, 73,805. Houses,
5,917; rooms with one or more windows, 48,073;
separate families, 18,743. The population in
1861, of Ferryhill, within the parliamentary burgh,
was 947 ; of Woodside, 3,724 ; of hospitals and
other institutions beyond the royal burgh, 688. The
annual value of real property in the parliamentary
burgh, in 1857-8, was £179,072; in 1864, £216,616
1 Is. 9d. ; in 1865, when the harbour had for the first
time been put upon the roll, about £226,616.
The name Aberdeen is of disputed origin ; and, in
former times, it was spelt variously Apardion, Aber-
doen, Aberdeyn, Aberden, and Habyrdine. A char-
ter by William the Lion is the town's oldest extant
municipal document; and a second by the same
monarch granted to the burgesses exemption from
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ABERDEEN.
15
ABERDEEN.
/nils anil customs throughout the whole kingdom.
Kin? William's successors frequently resiled here,
and had a palace which stood upon the site of the
present Trinity church and Trades hospital, in the
Shiprow. On" the 14th of July, 1296, Edward I. of
England entered Aberdeen, where he remained five
days and received the homage of the bishop and
dean, and of the burgesses and community. An
English garrison thenceforth for twelve years held
possession of the town ; but at length the citizens
silently waxed hot in the cause of Brace, and rose
suddenly at night in a well-planned insurrection,
with the watch-word " Bon-Accord," and captured
the castle and massacred the garrison. King Ro-
bert Brace, in the 14th year of his reign, made a gift
and conveyance to the community of Aberdeen of the
royal forest of Stocket; and besides this, he granted
various other privileges and immunities to the citi-
zens and burgh of Aberdeen, and in particular the
valuable fishings in the Dee and Don. In 1333,
Edward III. of England having sent a fleet of ships
to ravage the east coast of Scotland, a body of Eng-
lish landed and attacked by night the town of Aber-
deen, which they burnt and destroyed. In 1336,
Edward having invaded Scotland, and led his army
as far north as Inverness, the citizens of Aberdeen
attacked a party of the English forces which had
landed at Dunottar, and killed their general. In
revenge, Edward, on his return from Inverness, at-
tacked Aberdeen, put the greater part of the inhabi ■
tants to the sword, and again burnt and destroyed
the town. Soon after this, as already related, the
town was rebuilt, and considerably enlarged; and
in the re-edification of it, the citizens were greatly
assisted by King David Bruce, iu acknowledgment
of their steady loyalty and attachment both to him-
self and to his father. David II. resided for some
time at Aberdeen, and erected a mint here, as ap-
peal's from some coins still extant. In 1411, at the
battle of Harlaw, the citizens of Aberdeen turned
the fortunes of the day against Donald of the Isles ;
and, in 1547, they fought with equal gallantry but
less success at Pinkie. In the early part of the year
1560, the Reformation obtained a permanent footing
in Aberdeen. Adam Heriott was the " first minis-
ter of the true word of God in Aberdene." He died
in 1574. During the civil wars of the 17th century,
Aberdeen suffered much between the two contend-
ing parties ; for whichever of the two happened to
be in possession of the town levied heavy subsidies
from the citizens. In 'September 1644, the Marquis
of Montrose, with an army of about 2,000 men, ap-
proached Aberdeen, and summoned it to surrender;
but the magistrates after advising with Loi-d Burley
— who then commanded in the town a force nearly
equal iu number to the assailants — refused to obey
the summons ; upon which a battle ensued within
half-a-mile of the town, at a place called the Crab-
stone, near the Justice-mills, in which Montrose pre-
vailed, and many of the principal inhabitants were
killed. " There was little slaughter in the fight,"
says Spalding, " but horrible was the slaughter in
the flight fleeing back to the town." " Here it is
to be remarked," adds the worthy Commissary-clerk,
" that the night before this field was foughten, our
people saw the moon rise red as blood, two hours
before her time ! " Charles II. landed at Speymouth,
July 4, 1650, and visited Aberdeen a few days after.
He revisited the city in February 1651, after the de-
feat of his hopes at Worcester and Dunbar ; and in
September 1651, General Monk's army took posses-
sion of Aberdeen. On Sept. 20, 1715, the Chevalier
was proclaimed at the cross of Aberdeen ; and three
months afterwards, he passed through the town in
person ; but he did not receive here any effectual sup-
port. On Sept. 27, 1745, the Pretender was pro-
claimed at Aberdeen by the chamberlain of the ducal
family of Gordon, and a party of troops in his ser-
vice held possess'on of the town from a few weeks
after that event till the approach of the royal army
under the Duke of Cumberland.
The plague raged in Aberdeen in 1401, 1498,
1506, 1514, 1530, 1538, 1546, 1549, 1608, and last in
1647, when, out of a population of about 9,000, it
carried off 1,760 persons. Cholera visited Aberdeen
in August 1832 ; but the number of cases was only
260, and the number of deaths 105, — and these
chiefly in Footdee and the east end of the city. —
From 1336, when the town was last burnt, to
1398, it does not appear that any public records
were regularly kept here ; but from the last-men-
tioned period to the present day, (except for about
twelve years in the beginning of the 15th century,)
there is a regular and uninterrupted series of records
in the town's chartulary. The county-records do
not reach a more remote date than 1503. — Aberdeen
gives the title of Earl to a branch of the ancient
family of Gordon. Sir George Gordon of Haddo was
executed, in 1644, at Edinburgh, for his adherence
to the cause of Charles I. Sir John, bis eldest son.
who was restored to the baronetage and estates
after the Restoration, was succeeded by his brother
George, who was created chancellor of Scotland, and
earl of Aberdeen, in 1682. George, the fourth earl,
succeeded in 1801 ; and was created Viscount Gordon
of Aberdeen, peerage of the United Kingdom, in 1814.
Georse, the sixth and present earl, succeeded in 1864.
ABERDEEN. One of the eight districts of Aber-
deenshire. It forms the lower part of the basins of
the Dee and the Don, together with the seaboard
northward to Foveran ; and it comprehends the par-
ishes of Old Mnchar, St. Nicholas, Bellielvie, Dyce,
Fintray, Kinnellar, New Machar, Newhills, Peter-
culter, and Skene, and part of the parishes of Drum-
oak and Banchory-Devenick. Population in 1831,
69,778; in 1861, 88,265. Houses, 8,428.
ABERDEEN and TURRIFF RAILWAY. A
railway in Aberdeenshire, northward from a junc-
tion with the Great North of Scotland at Inveram-
say to Turiff. It was authorized on 15th June,
1855, and opened on 5th September, 1857. It is 18
miles long, and has stations at Wartle, Rothie, Fy-
vie, and Auchterless. Its receipts till 31st August,
1863, were £85,290 on shares, and £39,900 on loan;
its expenditure, £148,447. It was incorporated ori-
ginally as the Banff, Macduff, and Turriff Junction,
with design of being prolonged northward to Banfi
and Macduff; and it took its present name on 19th
April, 1859. A prolongation of it to Banff and
Macduff, under the name of the Banff, Macduff, and
Turriff Extension, was authorized on 27th July,
1857, and opened on 4th June, 1860 ; and this is
11^ miles long, and has stations at Plaidy and King-
Edward; and the receipts of it till 31st August,
1861, were £49,872 on shares and £27,000 on loan,
the expenditure, £81,724. The two railways are
practically one, and are often called the Aberdeen,
Turriff, and Banff railway.
ABERDEEN CANAL. A quondam canal from
the harbour of Aberdeen, up the valley of the Don,
to Inverury. It was projected in 1793, but not opened
till 1807. It cost £44,000 ; did not prove very com-
pensating; and was sold to the Great North of Scot-
land railway company for £39,272. and superseded.
ABERDEEN RAILWAY. A railway autho-
rized in 1845, and now forming the northern part of
the Scottish North-eastern railway. It goes from
the city of Aberdeen south-south-westward to the
centre of Forfarshire. The formation of it encoun-
tered great difficulties, suffered some tantalizing
ABERDEENSHIRE.
1G
ABERDEENSHIRE.
delay, and cost an amount of money far exceeding
the original estimate. But the work was opened,
over all its length and with favourable prospects,
on the 30th of March 1850, and cost a good deal less
per mile than either the Scottish Central, the Edin-
burgh, Perth, and Dundee, the North British, or the
Caledonian. It commences at Guild-street, adjacent
to the upper dock and to the foot of Market-street,
700 yards west of the terminus of the Great North
of Scotland railway ; and lias connexion with that
terminus, and with the intermediate wharves, hy
rails along the quays, worked by horse-traction. It
crosses the Dee at Polmuir by an elegant viaduct,
noticed in our account of the city; and it proceeds
by the stations of Cove, Portlethen, Newtonhill, and
Muchalls, to Stonehaven ; and thence goes through
the fertile district of the Mearns, by the stations of
Drumlithie, Fordoun, Laurencekirk, Marykirk, and
Craigo, to the north border of Forfarshire; and there,
at Dubton and at Bridge of Dun, it sends off two
branches, the one 3 miles and 160 yards eastward
to Montrose, the other 3 miles and 862 yards west-
ward to Brechin. It thence proceeds by tiie station
of Farnell Road, sends off a branch of 1 mile and
1,547 yards in length to Guthrie, and forms a junc-
tion with the Arbroath and Forfar railway at Friock-
heim. That railway, which had previously been
formed, was leased to it in 1848, and became ulti-
mately incorporated with it. The Aberdeen itself
and the Scottish Midland Junction were amalga-
mated with each other in 1856, under the name of
the Scottish North-eastern. The length of the Aber-
deen, from its northern terminus to Friockheim, ex-
clusive of branches, is 49 miles; and the aggregate
length of the Scottish North-eastern system'is 138
miles. The total consolidated capital of the com-
pany, at 31 July 1865, was £2.826.192.
ABERDEENSHIRE, an extensive county on the
north-east coast of Scotland ; hounded on the north
and east by the German ocean; on the south by the
counties of Kincardine, Forfar, and Perth; and on
the west by Inverness-shire and Banffshire. Its
outline is very irregular. It extends about 86 miles
in length, from Cairneilar, or Scarscoch, the south
west point of Braemar, where the counties of Inver-
ness, Perth, and Aberdeen meet, to Cairnbulg, a
promontory forming the eastern point of the bay of
Fraserburgh on the north-east ; and about 47 miles
in breadth, from the mouth of the Dee on the east,
to the head-springs of the Don, on the skirts of
Banffshire, on, the west. It is the fifth Scottish
county in point of area, and the third as respects
population. The extent of sea-coast is about 70
miles. The circumference is about 280 miles. The
area has been estimated at 1,970 square miles, or
1,260,625 acres. The county comprehends the dis-
tricts of Aberdeen, Afford, the greater part of Deer
or Buchan, Ellon, Garioch, Kincardine O'Neil,
Strathbogie, and Turriff. In ancient times its re-
cognised divisions were Buchan on the north; Mar
on the south-west; and Formartin, Garioch, and
Strathbogie in the middle. The Farquharsons, For-
tieses, and Gordons, are the principal septs of this
district of country. The Taixai or Taezali were the
possessors of the soil in Roman times.
The south-western parts of this county are ex-
tremely rugged and mountainous ; towards the east
and north-east the country is mere level. About
two-thirdB of the entire surface are covered with
mountains, hills, moors, and mosses. The princi-
pal mountains are Ben Macdhu, 4,390 feet; Cairn-
toul, 4,245; Ben-Aven, 3,967; Loch-nagar, 3,777;
Ben-Uarn, 3,589; and Scarscoch, 3,402. The gene-
ral scenery of the county is cheerless and bleak; yet
many picturesque groups of landscape, variously
beautiful and romantic and grand, occur around
some of the larger towns and along the courses of
the large rivers. The shores are generally hold and
ragged, occasionally rising into lofty precipices, and
scooped out into extensive caverns. Immediately
to the north of Aberdeen, however, there are exten-
sive sand-flats.
Large forests of natural wood occur in some of
the interior districts, especially in Braemar, Glen-
tanner, and Mortlach. In these regions " the
mountains seem to be divided by a dark sea of firs,
whose uniformity of hue and appearance affords in-
expressible solemnity to the scene, and carries back
the mind to those primeval ages when the axe had
not yet invaded the boundless region of the forest."
The Scotch fir is very generally distributed, and
reaches an elevation in this county of 2,000 to
2,300 feet. At Invercauld there is a tree of this
species measuring 23 feet in girth at the soil; ano-
ther in Mar forest measures 22 feet 4 inches : and
other two in the same locality 19 feet. The best
specimens in the eyes of a timber merchant occur
at Aboyne. The larch is also a general tree in this
county, rising from sea-level to 1,800 feet.
The climate is on the whole mild, considering its
northern situation; the winters are not so cold, noi
the summers so warm or so long, as in the southern
counties. The mean temperature at Aberdeen,
from nineteen years' observation by the late Mr.
Innes, is 47° 1 ; at Buchanness, from registers for
1834-5-6, 47° 3'; at Afford, 26 miles inland, and
420 feet above sea-level, 40°°03. Generally tho
mean of the three summer months is about 10'
higher than that of the whole year; and the mean
of winter as much below.
With regard to mineralogy, this county is not
peculiarly rich. The granite quarries are its most
valuable mineral treasures. The ordinary granite
of Aberdeenshire is a small grained stone of the
common ternary compound of quartz, felspar, and
mica, Sometimes it passes into greenstone of the
trap family, and sometimes into basalt. It forms
the great mass of the Grampian chain. All the
quarries around Aberdeen are of white granite with
a bluish tint, The granite quarried near Peterhead
is of a red colour, and of much larger grain than
that of Aberdeen. There are several quarries in the
parish of Aberdour which yield excellent millstones ;
a quarry of blue slate is wrought in the parish of
Culsalmond; and a vein of grey manganese exists
in the neighbourhood of Old Aberdeen. In the
parish of Huntly there are indications of metallic
ores ; and plumbago, or black lead, has been disco-
vered here. Aberdeenshire abounds with limestone;
but, owing to the scarcity of coal, it cannot be
wrought to much advantage, except near a seaport.
Small pieces of amber have been found on the
Buchan coast ; and Camden has an apociyphal story
of a piece the size of a horse having been found on
that coast! In the parish of Leslie, a beautiful
green amianthus, with white and grey spots, is
found in considerable quantities. It is easily
wrought into snuff-boxes and other ornaments.
Amethysts, beryls, emeralds, and other precious
stones, particularly that species of rock-crystal
called Cairngorm stone, are found in the Crathie
mountains; and abates of a fine polish and beautiful
variety, on the shore near Peterhead. From Ben-
y-bourd, on the estate of Invercauld, large speci-
mens of rock-crystals have been obtained; and one
of these, in the possession of the proprietor of In-
vercauld, is nearly two feet in length. Besides
these, asbestos, talc, cyanite, and mica occur.
The mineral waters of Peterhead in the north,
and Pannanich in the south, are celebrated. About
ABERDEENSHIRE.
i:
ABERDEENSHIRE.
6.400 acres of the county are occupied with lakes.
The principal rivers are the Dee, the Don, tin:
Ythan, the Bogie, the Uric, the Ugie, and the Cru-
den. The Deveron also rises in Aberdeenshire, —
though it has its embouchure in the county of
Banff. All these livers flow into the German
ocean; and have long been celebrated — especially
the first two — for the excellence of the salmon with
which they abound. Besides the fishings in the
rivers, the sea-coast of Aberdeenshire abounds with
excellent fish, and a number of fishing vessels are
fitted out from the seaports of this county, particu-
larly from Peterhead and Fraserburgh. There is
one canal, extending up the valley of the Don from
Aberdeen harbour to Inverury. It has been de-
scribed in a preceding article.
The surface of the mountains and other uplands
of this count}- is, for the most part, either bare rock
or such thin poor soil as admits of Uttle profitable
improvement or none, even for the purposes of hill
pasture ; that of the moorlands and the mosses com-
prises many tracts which might be thoroughly re-
claimed, and not a few which have, in recent times,
been very greatly improved ; and that of the low-
land and arable districts has a very various soil, —
most of it naturally poor or churlish, but a great
deal now converted into fine fertile mould by judi-
cious cultivation. Heaths and coarse stiff clays are
common in the higher districts of the count}'; and
light sands and finer clays prevail in the valleys
and on the sea-board. By far the greater part of
the united parishes of Braemar and Crathie, con-
taining nearly 200,000 acres, is incapable of culti-
vation. In the adjacent highland parish of Strath-
don, containing 68,000 acres, the arable land does
not exceed 5,000 acres. But in both these districts
agriculture is making steady progress. Their prin-
cipal crops are Angus oats and turnips. Of about
40,000 acres between the Don and the Dee, and
midway between the sources and mouths of these
rivers, nearly 16,000 acres are under the plough and
yield an average rent of 16s. per acre. The land
here is cultivated on a rotation of seven years ; tur-
nips are succeeded by bear or by oats with grass
seeds ; then the land is laid down in grass for three
years; and then two successive crops of oats are
taken. The cattle are chiefly the long-horned black
or brown Aberdeenshire breed. The principal ara-
ble land of the county lies between the Don and the
Ythan, in the districts of Formartin and Garioch, in
Strathbogie, and between the Ugie and the sea on
the north. About 200,000 acres of land throughout
the county are annually under oats. The cultiva-
tion of wheat is seldom attempted; and very little
hay is made. Turnips are very extensively grown;
and fat cattle ire exported in great numbers to the
London market. Sheep-fnmiing is little followed.
In 1811 the sheep-stock did not exceed 100,000
head, and the number has not greatly increased
since that period. Tenantry-at-will is now almost
entirely unknown; and leases are usually from 19
to 21 years. The tenant's choice in the manage-
ment of his land was, until lately, restricted to the
five and seven course rotations, which are still those
most commonly practised; and he is usually allowed
three years after entering on the farm to determine
which course of cropping is likely to be the most
eligible. The six-course shift has lately been in-
troduced, and being regarded by all intelligent far-
mers as the best adapted to the nature of the soil
of which this county is chiefly composed, and most
consonant with the principles of correct husbandry,
bids fair to supersede the above-named rotations at
no distant period.
The recent improvements in agriculture have
I.
comprised, not only more economical methods of
cropping, but also better tillage, better implements,
better manuring, better farm-yairt management,
better outhouse treatment of live stock, extensive
subsoil draining, extensive reclamation of waste
lands, and extensive enrichment of poor soils, and
have resulted in such vast increase of produce from
both arable lands and pastures as has changed the
comity from being a constantly losing one in the
balance of agricultural imports and exports, to be-
ing a largely gaining one in that balance, by largo
exportation of oats and cattle. A writer in an of-
ficial survey of the Board of Agriculture printed in
1794 for private circulation, says, " About the mid-
dle of last century, the farms in Aberdeenshire were
of much greater extent than they are at present;
and from many incidental circumstances that occur-
red to me during my residence in that county, it
seems evident to me, that farmers were then in
general a more wealthy and respectable body of men
than they are at present ; and it is very obvious
that many extensive tracts of land which were then
under the plough, are now abandoned as waste, and
covered with heath. Of so little value was land in
this country at that period, that there are instances
of considerable tracts of com lands being so totally
abandoned as to be allowed to pass from one pro-
prietor to another, merely by a prescriptive title of
occupancy for upwards of forty years without a chal-
lenge." How great is the contrast now ! The
large farm system has been revived ; fa: ms have be-
come scarce, and dear ; the scantiest season yields
an abundant supply ; and in average years there is
enough and to spare. For example, in 1847, the
farmers of Aberdeenshire, aided perhaps by those
of a small contiguous portion of Kincardineshire, ex-
ported 43,750 quarters of oats, 52,150 bolls of meal,
and 4,600 quarters of bear; and in the years 1828 —
1849 they exported cattle as follows,— in 1828, 150;
in 1829, 250; in 1830, 400; in 1831, 550; in 1832,
800; in 1833, 1,250; in 1834, 3,125; in 1835, 4,528:
in 1836, 5,505 ; in 1837, 5,850 ; in 1838, 6,150; in
1839,6,250; in 1840, 6,422 ; in 1841, 6,450; in 1842,
9,543; in 1843, 10,150; in 1844, 10.561 ; in 1845,
11,928; in 1846, 12,300; in 1847, 13,783; in 1848,
15,420 ; and in 1849, 18,300. The steadiness of this
increase, taken along with the rapidity of it, in-
dicates unmistakably the highly improving state of
things ; and the aggregate value of the cattle ex-
ported is also veiy striking; for supposing them to
have brought £20 a-bead, the total receipts for them
must have been about three millions of pounds.
The export of sheep, pigs, dead meat, and eggs, has
also been large. In 1827, the total value of all the
disposable animal produce of the county was pro-
bably not more than £10,000; and in 1849 that of
black cattle alone was upwards of £360,000. Yet
the main part of this wonderful increase is ascribable,
not directly to agricultural improvement in the
mere working of its own energies, but indirectly to
the stimulus exerted upon it by the facilities of
steam-navigation to Hull and London.
Aberdeenshire has been long noted for its woollen
manufactures, particularly the knitting of stockings
and hose, in which numbers of the common people
are constantly employed. The cotton, linen, and
sail-cloth manufactures have been successfully in-
troduced, particularly in Aberdeen, Peterhead, and
Huntly'. In 1831, there were about 1,600 hands
employed in the linen, woollen, and cloth manufac-
tures, in Old and New Aberdeen, and about 700 in
other districts of the county. In 1841 the carpet-
manufactory within this county employed 186 per-
sons; cotton manufactures, 1,448; flax and linen,
3,489; lint, 233; rope, cord, and twine, 224; stock-
ABERDEENSHIRE.
18
ABERDEENSHIRE.
ings, 1,330; woollen and worsted, 840; paper, 173;
combs, 220. There were also 384 bakers, 1,289
blacksmiths, 2.033 boot and shoe makers, 227 cabi-
net-makers, 563 gardeners, 153 iron-founders, 1,299
masons, 155 millwrights, 230 quarriers, 1,278 tailors,
and 407 weavers.
The royal burghs of Aberdeenshire are Aberdeen,
Inverury, and Kintore ; and the towns and principal
villages are Peterhead, (which is also a parliamen-
tary burgh,) Huntly, Fraserburgh, Turriff, Old Mel-
drum, Old Deer, Tarland, Stuartfield, St. Combs,
Boddom, Rosehearty, Inveralloehy, Cairnbulg, El-
lon, Newburgh, Collieston, New Pitsligo, Banchory,
Charlestown of Aboyne, Ballater, Castletown of
Braemar, Cuminestown, and Newbyth. The chief
seats are Balmoral, the Queen ; Birkhall, the late
Prince Albert; Abergeldie, the late Duchess of
Kent; Aboyne Castle, the Marquis of Huntly;
Slaines Castle, the Earl of Errol ; Keith Hall, the
Earl of Kintore; Mar-Lodge, Skene-House, and
Dalgety Castle, the Earl of Fife ; Philorth Castle
and Memsey-House, Lord Saltoun; Castle-Eorbes,
Lord Forbes ; Haddo-House, the Earl of Aberdeen ;
Fyvie Castle, W. Gordon, Esq.; Dunecht-House,
the Earl of Crawford ; Huntly Lodge, the Duke of
Richmond; Stricheii House, G. Baird,Esq. ; Inver-
cauld-House, J. Farquharson, Esq.; Pitfour, Admi-
ral G. Ferguson; Cluny, John Gordon, Esq.; Free-
field, Alexander Leith, Esq. ; Leith-Hall, Sir Andrew
Leith Hay; Logie-Elphinstone and Westhall, Sir
James D. H. Elphinstone, Bart.; Crimonmogate,
Sir Alex. Bannerman, Bart.; Pitsligo-House, Sir
John Stewart" Forbes, Bart.; Craigievar Castle and
Fintray House, Sir William Forbes, Bart.; Mony-
musk, Sir Isaac Grant, Bart.; Hilton, Sir W. B.
Johnston, Bart.; Pitlurg, Sir W. C. Seton, Bart.;
and Newe and Edinglassie, Sir Charles Forbes, Bart.
The principal lines of road in Aberdeenshire are
the line from Aberdeen west-south-westward, up the
valley of the Dee to Castletown-Braemar, and thence
southward to the Spittal of Glenshee; the line from
Aberdeen west-north-westward, through Skene and
Cluny and up the vale of Alford, and thence north-
ward to Huntly and Keith ; the line from Aberdeen
north-westward up the valley of the Don to Inver-
ury, and thence in the same direction to Huntly; the
line from Aberdeen north-north-westward, through
Old Meldrum and Turriff, to Banff; the line from
Aberdeen northward along the coast to Ellon, Peter-
head, and Faserburgh ; and the line from Peterhead
west-north-westward, by Newbyth, to Banff. The
number of miles of turnpikes in 1858 was 448 ; the
number of turnpike trusts, 33; the yearly revenue
from tolls, £10,534. The railways are the Aberdeen
or Scottish North-eastern, the Deeside, the Great
North of Scotland, the Inverury and Old Meldrum,
the Alford Valley, the Aberdeen and Turriff, and
the Formartine and Buchan ; and the first, third,
and sixth are noticed in their own alphabetical place.
The Deeside deflects from the Scottish North-eastern
at Ferryhill, near Aberdeen ; goes up the valley of
the Dee to Aboyne; is 32 miles long; and has sta-
tions at Ruthrieston, Cults, Murtle, Milltimber, Cul-
ter, Drum, Park, Mills of Drum, Banchory, Glassel,
Torphins, Lumphanan, and Dess. It was autho-
rized in 1846 ; opened to Banchory in 1853, — to
Aboyne in 1859; and its receipts, from shares and
loans, till 31st December 1860. were £208,032. The
Inverury and Old Meldrum deflects from the Great
North of Scotland near Inverury ; is 4J miles long ;
was opened in 1856; cost £2,509; and is leased in
perpetuity to the Great North of Scotland. The
Alford Valley deflects from the Great North of Scot-
land at Kintore ; goes 16J miles westward to Alford ;
has stations at ICemnay, Monymusk, Tillytowrie,
and Whitehouse; and was authorized in 1856, and
opened in 1859. Its receipts, from shares and loans,
at 31st August 1861 were £31,821 short of the ex-
penditure. The Formartine and Buchan deflects
from the Great North of Scotland at Dyce; goes 40J
miles northward to Fraserburgh ; sends off branches,
2£ to 9| miles long, to Ellon and Peterhead; and
has stations at Parkhill, New Machar, Udny, New
burgh Road, Esslemont, Arnage, Auchnagatt, Bruck-
lay, Old Deer or Mintlaw, Longside, New Seat, and
Inverugie. It was authorized in 1858, and opened
to Mintlaw in 1861. Its receipts, from shares and
loans, till 31st August 1861, were £204,694.
Aberdeenshire is divided into 90 parishes ; and in
1865, in addition to the parish churches, it contained
chapels of ease. The synod of Aberdeen compre-
hends 87 of the parishes of Aberdeenshire, with all
its chapels of ease, also 7 parishes of Kincardineshire
and 12 parishes of Banffshire, with 5 chapels of ease,
and is divided into the eight presbyteries of Garioch,
Alford, Ellon, and Deer, which consist wholly of
Aberdeenshire parishes, — Aberdeen and Kincardine
O'Neil, which have a mixture of Kincardineshire
parishes, — Turriff, which has a mixture of Banffshire
parishes, — and Fordyce, which consists wholly of
Banffshire parishes. The three Aberdeenshire par-
ishes not comprehended in the synod of Aberdeen,
are in the presbytery of Strathbogie and synod of
Moray. The Free church synod of Aberdeen fol-
lows the same arrangement as the Established synod
of Aberdeen; and in 1865, it comprised 87 churches
and 10 preaching stations ; and the yearly sum raised
in connexion with the whole was £25,780 14s. lOd.
The United Presbyterian synod has 23 churches in
Aberdeenshire ; and places 13 of these in its presby-
tery of Aberdeen, 8 in its presbytery of Buchan, and
two in its presbytery of Banffshire. The synod of
United Original Seeeders has only two churches in
Aberdeenshire, at Aberdeen and Clola, but gives the
name of Aberdeen and Perth to one of its presbyte-
ries. There are in Aberdeenshire 14 Congregational
churches connected with the Congregational Union
of Scotland, and 3 not connected with it. The Scot-
tish Episcopal church has a diocese of Aberdeen ;
and this comprises 25 charges in Aberdeenshire, and
5 in other counties. There are nine Roman Catholic
chapels in Aberdeenshire; but the Roman Catholic
college of Blairs, which is often associated in the
public mind with this county, is in the Kincardine-
shire parish of Maryculter 6 miles south-west of
Aberdeen. — In 1837, there were in Aberdeenshire
93 parish schools, attended by 6,103 scholars; 161
private schools, attended by 6,765 scholars; and 39
other private schools the attendance of which was
not returned.
Aberdeenshire is divided, for administration, into
the two major districts of Aberdeen and Peterhead,
with a sheriff-substitute for each, and into the ten
minor districts of Braemar, Deeside, Aberdeen, Al-
ford, Huntly, Turriff, Garioch, Ellon, Deer, and New
Machar, with a set of deputy-lieutenants for each.
Sheriff-courts are held weekly at both Aberdeen and
Peterhead; the general quarter sessions are held at
Aberdeen on the first Tuesday of March, May, and
August, and on the last Tuesday of October; and
small debt courts are held four times a-year at Tar-
land, Inverury, Turriff, Old Deer, and Fraserburgh.
Aberdeenshire sends one member to parliament.
The number of electors in 1838 was 3,142; in 1863,
4,210. The valued rent of the whole county in
Scottish money is £241,931 8s. lid.; the annual
value of the real property as assessed in 1860,
£951,364 ; as assessed to property and income-tax
in 1842-3, £605,802, whereof £423,388 was on lands,
and £145,365 on houses. The assessment, in 186"),
ABERDOUR.
!'.)
ABERDOUR.
for rogue-money and for rural police was lT7rd., and
for prisons -ft d. per pound. Previous to the act for
the equalization of weights and measures, the Aber-
deenshire boll was equal to 1.J boll of the Linlith-
gow standard. The bull of barley, bere, or oats,
was 4 Aberdeen firlots of 136 pints of 60J oz. each.
The brass standard bushel of Queen Anne, 1707, used
in Aberdeen, contained 13 cubic inches less than the
Winchester standard ; and a bushel used in the
county contained 40 cubic inches less. The peck
of potatoes was 32 lbs. Dutch; the pound of butter
or cheese, from 20 to 26 oz. Dutch ; of malt, meal,
or corn, 24 oz. Dutch. — The population of Aber-
deenshire in 1S01 was 121,065; in 1811,133,871; in
1821, 155,049; in 1831, 177,657; in 1841, 192,387;
in 1861, 223,344. Inhabited houses in 1861, 33,109;
uninhabited, 763; building, 219. In 1841, 44,013
of the population were under 20 years of age ; and
166,352 were natives of the county, 21,998 were
born in other parts of Scotland, 1,711 were natives
of England, 1,037 were natives of Ireland, 22 were
natives of the colonies, and 170 were foreigners, —
leaving 1,097 whose places of birth had not been
ascertained. The number of persons engaged in
commerce, trade, and manufactures, in 1841, was
27,937, or 15'5 per cent.; in agriculture, 25,224, or
13*1 per cent. The number of female servants was
13,377; of male servants, 1,334; of alms-people and
pensioners, 1,947; of the medical profession, 341 ;
of the clerical, 220; of the legal, 174; of indepen-
dent means, 6,837. The yearly average number of
crimes was 259 in 1836-40, 93 in 1841-45, 117 in
1846-50, 104 in 1851-55, and 89'in 1856-60. The
number of prisoners in Aberdeen jail during the year
July 1862 — June 1863 was 1,208; and the average
duration of their confinement was 16 days. In I860,
thenumberon the poor roll was 7,100, — casual, 1,699;
insane or fatuous, 270; orphans or deserted children,
443; and the amount expended, in that year, for the
poor on roll was £39,726, and for casual poor, £1,101.
ABERDONA. See Clackmannan.
ABERDOUR, a parish containing a post-office of
its own name, and the villages of Easter Aberdour,
Wester Aberdour, and Newtown of Aberdour, on
the south coast of Fifeshire. It is bounded by the
frith of Forth, and by the parishes of Dalgety,
Auchtertool, Kinghorn, and Burntisland. It mea-
sures about 4 miles in length, about 3 miles in
breadth, and about 6,059 acres in area. But the is-
land of Inchcolm, lying about 2 miles to the south,
belongs to it; and a small detached district, called
Kilrie-Yetts, lies about 4 or 5 miles to the east. A
ridge of hills runs through the main body of the
parish, in a direction nearly parallel to the coast.
The tract to the north of this lies comparatively
high, and has a cold sour soil, and is altogether
bleak and churlish; but the tract to the south is ge-
nial and generous, and exhibits a profusion of both
natural and artificial beauty. The coast is upwards
of 2 miles long, and probably comprises twice
that extent of shore-line. The western part of it
rises gently into the interior, and is feathered and
flecked with wood; the centre is indented by the
sandy, wood - girt, finely - sheltered bay of Aber-
dour; and the eastern part is steep and rugged, and
has shaggy sheets of wood down to the water's
edge, and is traversed through its glades and across
its brows by walks, which command most pic-
turesque prospects of the frith and its southern sea-
board, and of the hills of Edinburgh and the Pent-
lands. A rivulet runs windingly from the northern
border of the parish, through its centre, partly along
a rich little vale, to the head of Aberdour bay; and
the embouch of this is denoted in the name of the
parish, which alludes to the adjacency of the village.
Coal, lime, and sandstone abound and are worked.
The average rent of arable land is about £2 per acre.
The value of the assessed property in 1813 was
£5,581 2s. 2d., and in 1865 was £10,200 9s. 8d.
The principal landowners are the Earl of Morton
and the Earl of Moray; but there are six others.
The principal mansion is Aberdour House, the seat
of the Earl of Morton, who is here called the gude-
man of Aberdour;' and the other mansions are Hill-
side House, Whitehill Cottage, Cattlehill House,
and Templehall. The chief antiquities are the
castle of Aberdour and a cairn or tumulus, — the lat-
ter on a flat-topped hill. The three villages of
Aberdour stand adjacent to one another, and are
often described as one village, at the head of Aber-
dour bay, 2J miles west-south-west of Burntisland,
on the road thence to Inverkeithing. This place is a
favourite bathing resort of the citizens of Edinburgh
during summer; and it enjoys the advantage of a
steam-boat communication of its own with Leitb.
It also has a few small sailing vessels, and does
something, though not much, in oyster-fishing. A
few of the inhabitants formerly were employed in the
weaving of ticking, and in the work of two saw-
mills and of a small spade factoiy. An hospital exists
here for four widows, founded by Anne, Countess of
Moray. The Earl of Moray presents three of the
inmates, and the writers to the signet the fourth.
Population of Easter Aberdour in 1851, 307; of
Wester Aberdour, 469; of Newtown of Aberdour,
152. Population of the parish of Aberdour in 1831,
1,751; in 1861, 1,874. Houses 333.
This parish is in the presbytery oY Dunfermline
and synod of Fife. Patron, the Earl of Morton.
Stipend, £207 14s. 6d. ; glebe, £13. Schoolmaster's
salary in 1865, £60, with upwards of £50 fees. The
parish church was built in 1790, and repaired in
1826, and has 579 sittings. There is a Free church:
attendance, 450; yearly sum raised in 1865, £166 13s.
lOd. There is also a Scottish Episcopalian place of
worship. There is a colliery school. The lands of
Aberdour anciently belonged to the monastery of
Inchcolm; and the western portion of them is said
to have been given to it by one of the Mortimers for
the privilege of burying in its church ; and that por-
tion, together with the lands of Beath, was acquired
from an abbot of Inchcolm by James, afterwards Sir
James Stuart. See Ischcolm. The parish of Aber-
dour was farmed in 1640 by disjunction from the
parishes of Beath and Dalgety. A nunnery of the
sisterhood of the Poor Clares formerly existed here.
Aberdour bav >vas a convenient landing-place for
any party coming from the continent to the royal
court at Dunfermline, and the supposed commission-
ers sent to escort Queen Margaret of Norway resided
its vicinity ; so that the popular reading of the old
ballad of Sir Patrick Spens — though not the reading
preferred by Sir Walter Scott — is probably correct,
which places the catastrophe of the piece midway
between Norway and this place, and says,
" Half ower, half ower, to Aberdour,
Tis fifty fathom deep,
And there lies glide Sir Patrick Spens,
Wi' the Scotch lords at his feet."
ABERDOUR, a parish on the north coast of Aber-
deenshire. It is bounded by the sea, and by the
parishes of Pitsligo,Tyrie, New Deer, King-Edward,
and Gamrie. Its post-town is Fraserburgh. Its
extent along the coast is about 7 miles; but its
greatest length is not less than 10 or 11 miles. A
portion, comprising about 800 acres, is separated
a mile or so from the main body, by the inter-
vention of Tyrie. The eastern part of the parish,
or estate of Aberdour, is somewhat low and flat,
with little diversity of surface. But the western
ABERFELDY.
20
ABERFOYLE.
part, or estate of Auchmeddan, is elevated 200 or
300 feet above the level of the sea, and has a rugged
surface, and a large proportion of moor and bog.
Several long romantic hollows or deep ravines cleave
the high grounds upward from the beach; and
each, as they advance, branches off on both sides
into lesser ones, which lose themselves among moors
and bogs at a distance of about 3 miles from the
sea. Little wild tumbling streams descend the ra-
vines to the sea; and the mouth of one of these,
called the Dour, gives name to the parish. In the
southern district is the ravine or den of Glasby, tra-
versed by the northern head-stream of the river
Ugie. The greater part of this side of the parish
consists of moors and bogs, interspersed here and
there with corn fields. The coast, especially to the
west of the church, presents a rocky, precipitous,
and lofty front to the sea, insomuch that, in its
whole extent, are only three openings where boats
can land, — one in the north-east corner, one imme-
diately below the church, and the third at the mouth
of the burns of Troup and Auchmeddan, where a
small harbour once existed, but is now totally de-
stroyed. Numerous romantic caves pierce the cliffs
at and below the level of the sea ; and the most re-
markable of these, called Cowshaven, served as a
hiding - place to Lord Pitsligo after the battle of
Culloden, and runs up into the country " nobody
knows how far." The rooks of the parish are highly
interesting to geologists ; and are quarried in sev-
eral places for granite and sandstone, and in two
places for mSlstones. The total yearly value of
raw produce was estimated in 1840 at £13,382 10s.
6d., exclusive of stones and fish, which were esti-
mated at respectively £130 and £360. The value of
assessed property in 1843 was £4,510. The chief
antiquity is the remains of the castle of Dundargue,
a place which made some figure in the civil wars of
the 14th century, situated on a precipitous sand-
stone rock of 64 feet in height, on the beach, and
connected with the mainland only by a narrow neck
of rock and earth. The village of New Aberdour
was founded in the year 1798. Fairs are held at it
on the Tuesday after the 11th of April, on the 26th
of May, on the Tuesday after the 7th of August, and
on the 22d of November ; but they are not well at-
tended. Population of New Aberdour in 1861, 543.
A small fishing village called Pennan stands on the
Auchmeddan part of the coast, and has about half-
a-dozen boats. Population of Pennan in 1851, 168.
Population of the parish of Aberdour in 1831, 1,548;
in 1861, 1,837. Houses, 324.
This parish is in the presbyteiy of Deer and synod
of Aberdeen. Patron, Fordyce of Brucklaw. Sti-
pend, £204 7s. 10d.; glebe, £12. Schoolmaster's
salary, £42 10s.; female teachers, £15. The parish
church is at New Aberdour, and was built in 1818,
and has 800 sittings. A station of the Free Church
is also maintained there ; but the yearly sum raised
in 1865 by the people connected witli it was only
£1 1 10s. 7d. There is a parish school in Pennan.
ABERELLIOT. See Akbirlot.
ABERFELDY, a small post-town in the parishes
of Dull and Logierait, Perthshire. It stands on the
Moness burn, on the south side of the Tay, and on
the great road down Strathtay, about 5 miles from
Taymouth. It consists principally of one long
street, a short one joining that about the centre,
and a small square at their junction ; it has, of late,
been much improved; and it is connected by rail-
way with the Highland line. It contains a Free
church with 800 sittings, an Independent chapel
with 400 sittings, a Baptist chapel with 60 sittings,
branch offices of the Central and the Union Banks, a
savings bank, and a public library. Fairs are held on
the first Thursday of January old style, on the
Tuesday before Kenmore in March, on the last
Thursday of April old style, on the Saturday before.
Amulree in May, on the last Friday of July old
style, and on the last Thursday of October old style.
The scenery in the vicinity of the town, up the
Moness burn, is among the most interesting in
Scotland. See Moxess. To this the well-known
lines of Bums refer, —
" The braes ascend like lofty wa's,
The foaming stream deep roaring fa's,
O'erhung wi' fragrant spreading shaws,
The Dirks of Aberfeldy.
The hoary cliffs are crown'd wt' flowers,
White o'er the linn the burnie pours,
And, rising, weets wi' misty showers
The birks of Aberfeldy."
In a field adjacent to the town, the 42d Highlanders,
so well known by the name of the Black Watch,
and so famous for their bravery in battle, were first
embodied into a regular regiment. Over the Tay,
opposite the town, is an elegant bridge of five
arches, erected in 1733 by General Wade The
view from the centre of this bridge is magnifi-
cent. On the north are the Weem Rock and the
soaring Grampians ; on the east are the rich vale of
Appin and the turrets and woods of Castle-Menzies ;
and all round is a sublime amphitheatre, with a
foreground of objects ever beautiful and often new,
including rich verdant meadows, groves in green
array, and the broad and limpid Tay rolling in its
cradle of granite to
" The white waves of the restless main."
In 1861, the population of the Dull portion of Aber-
feldie was 634; and of the Logierait portion, 511.
ABERFOYLE, a parish, containing a small post-
office village of its own name, in the south-west
corner of Perthshire. It is bounded on the north by
Loch Katrine and Loch Achray, which separate it
from Callander parish ; on the east by the parish of
Port-of-Menteith ; and on the south and west by
Stirlingshire. Its greatest admeasurement is from
the east end of Loch Arclet, on the north-west, to the
bridge across the Forth, on the road from Gartmore,
in the south-eastern extremity, a distance of about
eleven miles ; its greatest breadth from north to
south is towards the centre of the parish, and about
6 miles. The general aspect of this district is ex-
tremely picturesque. It is a narrow tract of coun-
try, bounded on every side by lofty hills and moun-
tains. The bottom of the valley is occupied by a
series of beautiful lakes, skirted with woods of oak,
ash, and birch; and their banks are occasionally
diversified with scanty portions of cultivated ground,
the soil of which has, in the course of ages, been
washed down from the mountains and deposited by
the streams. The mountains are in some instances
clothed with oak-woods more than half-way up;
the lower eminences are, for the most part, covered
to their summits ; the higher regions are overgrown
with heath, and sometimes present only the bare
nigged rock. None of the mountains are of the
first class in height. 'Huge Benvenue1 and Ben-
chochan, are far overtopped by Benlomond, in the
parish of Buchanan, which, with its pyramidal mass,
terminates the prospect to the west. The rocks are
chiefly micaceous granite. There is a quarry oi
excellent slates, of blue and green colour; and it
employs from 20 to 30 workmen, and produces
about 500,000 slates per annum. Many of the rarer
Alpine plants are to be found upon the mountains.
The black eagle builds in some of the more inac-
cessible rocks ; but it is now very rare. The falcon
is also found here. The most considerable lakes
ABERGELDIE.
21
ABERLADY.
are Locu Katiune, Loch Aohray, Locn Chon, and
Loon Ard: which see. One head branch of the
river Forth has its rise in the western extremity of
the parish, at the eastern foot of Ben- Awe. After
flowing through Loch Chon, and the upper and
lower Loch Ard, it bursts forth, at the eastern ex-
tremity of the latter; and a few hundred yards to
the east of it, flings itself over a rock nearly 30 feet
high. After having formed a junction with the
other head branch of the Forth, called the Duchray,
coming from the south-west, the united stream
receives the name of the Forth, and enters by a
narrow opening — the famous pass of Aberfoyle —
into Strathmore. In winter, the lakes are covered
with waterfowl; among which swans, and some of
the rarer species of divers, are occasionally met
with. The soil is light. It is generally remarked,
that the harvest is earlier in Aberfoyle than any
where in the vicinity towards the south, where the
flat country begins. The climate is healthy. — The
property of this parish was anciently vested in the
Grahams, Earls of Menteith ; but, on the failure of
heirs-male of that family iu 1 694, their estate came
to the family of Montrose; and the Duke of Mon-
trose is now sole heritor in this parish, being at the
same time patron, proprietor, and superior of the
whole, excepting a single farm (Drumlane) which
holds blench of the Duke of Argyle. Assessed pro-
perty in 1865, £4,085. Population in 1831, 660 ; in
1861, 565. Houses 116.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dunblane, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Duke of
Montrose. Stipend, £158 6s. 8d., with a manse and
glebe. Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with £5 or £6 fees.
The parish church was built in 1 744, and thoroughly
repaired in 1839, and has about250 sittings. A school-
house also is used by the parish minister for public
worship generally once in two months. — The village
of Aberfoyle stands on the Forth, about 2 1 miles from
Stirling and 22 from Dumbarton. It has a good
inn; and fairs are held at it on the third Tuesday
of April, on the Friday before the third Tuesday of
August, and on the last Thursday of October. — The
principal line of road through the parish follows
the vale of the Forth, or of its fountain-lochs rather,
and enters the parish of Buchanan, between Lochs
Arclet and Katrine, from which point it passes
through a wild moor to Inversnaid on the eastern
side of Loch Lomond. This is a road of great
beauty and variety of scenery. — On a rising ground
in the neighbourhood of the manse, and facing the
south, there is a circle of stones, which, there is
room to believe, may be a relic of Druidism. It
consists of ten large stones placed circularly, with a
larger one in the middle. — The scenery of this par-
ish has been immortalized by Sir Walter Scott in
his poem of The Lady of the Lake, and his novel of
Rob Koy. Perhaps it owes its chief power and
beauty to the mighty minstrel's inspiration. Na-
ture herself is indeed a poet here, — yet a " some-
thing more exquisite still," — a nameless charm,
flung around us by the hand of one whose genius
glorifies everything it touches, is everywhere rest-
ing on this elf and fairy realm. See articles Ach-
ray (Loch), Bexvexue, and Forth.
ABERGELDIE, an estate in the parishes of
Graithie and Glengaim, on the left bank of the Dee,
6 miles above Ballater, Aberdeenshire. The man-
sion comprises an old turreted square tower and
various modern additions, and is an imposing pile.
The grounds are eminently picturesque, and har-
monize well with the adjacent royal park of Bal-
moral, and continue to wear the leafy honours of
" the birks of Abergeldie," — though Bums capri-
ciously transferred the fame of them to Aberfeldy.
The limited fee of the estate was put tip to sale in
1848, and became the property of the late Prince
Consort. See Balmoral. A fair for sheep, cattle,
and horses, is held at Abergeldie on the last Friday
of February.
ABEBIACHAN, a rivulet on tne confines of the
parishes of Inverness and Urquhart, toward the
lower part of Loch Ness, Inverness-shire. It runs
among romantic scenery, and makes a succession
of beautiful cataracts and perpendicular water-falls.
A fine spar cave was recently discovered here, adja-
cent to the road from Inverness to Fort- Augustus.
It measures about 21 feet in length, from 6 to 12 in
height, and from 3 to 6 in breadth, and has a rich
and curious display of stalactites and stalagmites.
ABEKLADY, a parish, containing a post-office
village of its own name, on the north-west coast of
the county of Haddington; bounded on the north
by the frith of Forth, which here forms Aberlady
bay, and by the parish of Dirleton ; on the east by
Dirleton and Haddington parishes ; and on the
south by Gladsmuir parish. Its greatest dimension
is about 4 miles, in a line running north-east and
south-west from the Pefferbum, near Saltcoats, to
Coteburn in Gladsmuir; and its greatest extent from
east to west is nearly the same. The Peft'erburn —
supposed to have been once called the Leddie, whence
the name of the parish — rises in the parish of Athel-
staneford, and after a winding course of 7 miles,
falls into Aberlady bay, at LufFness point. From
this point the whole bay between the Aberlady and
the Goolan or Dirleton shore is left dry at low wa-
ter, so that it may be crossed by foot passengers at
a point where the sands are above a mile in breadth.
At spring-tides, vessels of 60 or 70 tons may come
up the channel of the Pener to within a few hundred
yards of the village of Aberlady. This anchorage-
ground belonged formerly to the town of Hadding-
ton as its port. The sands covered by the tide
abound in cockles, and some other kinds of shell-
fish. Along the shore, from near Gosford House to
the eastern point of the parish, runs a tract of sandy
links, of considerable breadth, abounding with rab-
bits, and which is continued and spreads out into
greater breadth along the Goolan shore. From this
flat tract, the ground rises gradually as we proceed
inland, but in no part attains any considerable ele-
vation. The village of Gosford no longer exists;
but the late Earl of Wemyss built a splendid man-
sion here, close on the links, and commanding a
fine view of the frith towards Edinburgh. The pre-
sent Earl has here a splendid collection of paintings
BallencriefT House, the seat of Lord Elibank, occu-
pies a commanding situation; and LufFness, the seat
cf H. W. Hope, Esq., is an interesting old mansion.
The village of Aberlady, 5 miles north-west of
Haddington, consists of one long street of a good
appearance. It is occasionally resorted to by the
inhabitants of Haddington as a bathing-place; hut
the surrounding country presents little that is at-
tractive to the stranger. Population of the village
in 1861, 480. The North British railway traverses
the parish, and has two stations in its immediate
vicinity. Population of the parish in 1831, 973;
in 1861, 1,019. Houses, 222. Assessed property
in 1865, £9,823 9s.
This parish is in the presbytery of Haddington,
and synod of Lothian and Tweddale. Stipend,
£280 lis. lid.; glebe, £27 10s. Patron, the Earl
of Wemyss. Schoolmaster's salary, £55, with about
£34 fees. The parish church was'built in 1773, and
has 525 sittings. There is an United Presbyterian
church, with an attendance of about loO. There is
also a side school, with a large attendance. A little
to the west of Luffhess House are the remains of a
ABERLEMNO.
22
ABERNETHY-
conventual building, once belonging to the Carme-
lites. An hospital is said to have been founded at
Ballencrieff in the 12th century. This parish for-
merly belonged, in virtue of a grant from David I.,
to the bishop of Dunkeld, and was a vicarage in
that diocese. It has been conjectured that the
Culdees had a seat at or near Aberlady, called
Kilspindie.
ABERLEMNO, a parish in the centre of Forfar-
shire. It is bounded by the parishes of Tannadice,
Caraldston, Brechin, Guthrie, Bescobie, and Oath-
law. Its post-town is Forfar. Its greatest length,
in the line of the road from Forfar to Brechin, is 6 J
miles; its average breadth 3 J. The surface has a
general declination towards the South Esk river,
which runs along the northern boundary of the
parish, and along the course of which the land is so
level as to be occasionally extensively inundated by
that river. The principal stream is the Lemno,
which rises on the south-east side of the Finhaven
ridge of hills in this parish ; passes the kirk-town ;
sweeps in a circuitous direction around the base of
the ridge; and, entering Oathlaw parish, turns
north-eastwards, and flows into the Esk. in the lat-
ter parish, at a point within one mile of its original
source. The highest ground, Turin hill, has a
height of about 600 feet above the level of the adja-
cent waters. There are two curious stone pillars
or obelisks in this parish, supposed to have been
erected in commemoration of a victory obtained
over the Danes. They are covered with unintelli-
gible hieroglyphics. About a mile to the north-
east of the kirk-town are the ruins of Melgund
castle, which tradition alleges to have been built
by Cardinal Beaton, and which gives the title of
Viscount to the noble family of Minto. Auldbar
Castle, Balgavies House, Carsegownie House, and
Flemmington Castle, are also interesting old edi-
fices; and all, except the last, are still inhabited.
The Arbroath and Forfar railway traverses the
parish, and has a station in it at Auldbar. Nearly
one-half of the parish belongs to the Earl of Minto.
The valued rental is £4,233 6s. 8d. Scots. Assessed
property in 1865, £9,867 8s. lOd. Population in
1831, 1,079; in 1861, 1,054. Houses, 223.
This parish is in the presbytery of Forfar, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patrons, the Crown,
and Smyth of Methven. Stipend, £228 6s. 6d.;
glebe, £15. Unappropriated teinds, £469 14s. lid.
Schoolmaster's salary is now £45, with about £20
fees and other emoluments. The parish church is
an old structure with about 450 sittings. There is
a Free church ; and the yearly amount raised in
connexion with it in 1853, was £38 16s. 2jd., — in
1865, £92 3s. There is a private school. The pre-
sent parish of Aberlemno comprises the old parishes
of Aberlemno and Auldbar ; but probably the for-
mer originally extended farther to the north-east,
so as to include the mouth of the Lemno, from
which it seems to take its name.
ABEBLOUR, a parish containing a post-office
village of its own name, in the south-west of Banff-
shire. It is bounded by Morayshire, and by the
parishes of Boharm, Mortlach, and Inveraven.
The Spey divides it from Morayshire; the Fiddich,
from Boharm; and the Dullan-burn, from part of
Mortlach. Its general outline is triangular; and
its extent along the Spey, irrespective of the river's
windings, is 5 miles; and its greatest length, from
the head of the Dullan to the mouth of the Fiddich,
is 9 miles. About two-thirds of the area are under
cultivation; but nearly all is hilly; and the south-
ern and eastern parts are completely wild and
mountainous. The loftiest mountain is Benrinnes
on the south-west, whose enormous base lies partly
and chiefly in this parish, but extends also into
Inveraven parish. It rises to the height of 2.765
feet above the sea-level, and 1,876 feet above the
adjoining country. From its summit, the moun-
tains of Caithness on the north are visible in a clear
day, and the Grampians in the opposite direction.
The deep pass of Glackhamis separates this moun-
tain, on the east, from the Convals, which are of
much less elevation. Throe small streams inter-
sect this parish in a north-west direction, and dis-
charge themselves into the Spey ; and one of them,
the bum of Aberlour, about a mile above its month,
forms a beautiful cascade of 30 feet in leap, called
the linn of Buthrie. The Spey along the boundary
is deep and rapid, and, in the great floods of 1829,
rose 19 feet six inches above its ordinary level. A
little above the confluence of the Fiddich and the
Spey, and 12 miles above Fochabers, are the pic-
turesque rock and bridge of Craigellachie. See
Ckaigellachie. The turnpike road to Fochabers
and Elgin lies along this bridge; and adjaeent to
it, on the south bank of the river, is Craigellachie
Junction railway station, at the meeting-point of
the Dufftown branch of the Great Northern, the
Morayshire line, and the Strathspey line. The
Morayshire goes hence, across the Spey, by a trellis
girdered iron bridge of 200 feet in span ; while the
Strathspey line goes up the south side of the river,
past Aberlour village to Can-on, and crosses there
on a magnificent iron bridge. Aberlour House,
about a mile south of Craigellachie, is an elegant
modern mansion, in the Grecian style; and has
tastefully ornamented grounds, with very fine gar-
den. A Doric column of Aberdeen granite, 84 feet
high, surmounted by a large globe of polished
granite, is on the front lawn. The village of Aber-
lour, or Charleston of Aberlour, stands on a haugh,
at the mouth of the burn of Aberlour, 24. miles
south-west of Craigellachie Junction station, and
17 by railway south-west of Keith. It was founded
in 1812 by Grant of Wester Elcbies; and is a burgh
of barony, by royal charter. It consists of one
broad street, about i- a mile long, with a square to
the west, and its houses are substantial and slated.
It has a post-office under Craigellachie, a railway
station, and an office of the Union Bank. Fairs are
held at it on the first Thursday of April, on the
Thursday before the 26th of May, on the third
Thursdayof July, on the second Thursday of August,
and on the second Thursday of November. Popu-
lation of the village in 1861 , 510. Population of the
parish in 1831, 1,276; in 1861, 1,665. Houses,
296. Valued rental in 1864, £4,980.
This palish is the seat of a presbytery in the synod
of Moray. Stipend, £287 8s. 2d.; glebe, small but
valuable. Patron, the Earl of Fife, who is also the
principal landowner. Schoolmaster's salary, £50.
The former church, built in 1812, was destroyed by
fire in 1861 ; and the present church erected since
1861, is one of the most elegant in the north of Scot-
land, in the Norman style, with a square tower 65
feet high, and containing about 800 sittings. A
church is in Glenrinnes, constituted quoad sacra par-
ochial in 1865. See Glenrinnes. A Free church
is at Aberlour; and the yearly sum raised in con-
nexion with it in 1865, was £90 7s. 3d. There are
a side school in Edinville and a female school in
Charleston. A house of the Knights Templars stood
on Kinermony , an elevation to the west of the vil-
lage, commanding a view of the valley of the Spey.
ABERLUTHNET. See Maetkiek.
ABEEMELE. See Mungo (St.)
ABERNETHY, a parish chiefly in Perthshire,
and partly in Fifeshire; bounded on the north by
the Earn river, which separates it from the parishes
ABEENETHY.
23
ABERNETIIY.
of Dunbarnie and Eh ynd, and by the estuary of the
Tay; on the cast and south by Fifeshire; and on
the west by the parishes of Dron and Dunbarnie.
This parish is of an irregular figure. It extends from
east to west about 4 miles; and from north to south,
in some places, nearly 5. The surface is uneven.
A. considerable part is hilly, and belongs to the
Ochills. The low ground betwixt the rivers Tay
and Earn ou the north, and the hills on the south,
forms nearly an oblong square of about 4 miles in
length by 1J in breadth. About 25 feet below the
surface of this flat, and 4 feet below the highest
spring-tide mark in the Tay and Earn, there is uni-
formly found a stratum of moss, from 1 to 3 feet
thick, comprising remains of oak, alder, hazel, birch,
&c. The soil above this bed is composed of strata
of clay and sand. The Earn, by breaking down the
opposing banks in its serpentine turning, has formed
beautiful links or haughs on each side of its stream,
which are secured from being overflowed, by em-
bankments. The Tay, which washes the eastern
part of the northern boundary, is here navigable,
and affords salmon and sea-trout. The proprietor
of Carpow has valuable fishings upon it. In the
middle of this river, opposite to Mugdrum, in the
parish of Newburgh, is an island called Mugdrum
island, belonging to this parish. It is nearly 1 mile
in length; its greatest breadth is 198 yards; area
31 acres. The Earn, which hounds the northern
part of the parish till it falls into the Tay, a little
below the mansion-house of Carpow, is navigable
for several miles. It also produces salmon and
trout, which are chiefly sent to Perth, and thence to
the English market. There are two passage-boats
on the Earn, — one at Cary, which is seldom em-
ployed,— another at Ferryfield, upon the estate of
Carpow, near the junction of the Earn and the Tay ;
and there are passage-boats also between the latter
and the Carse of Cowrie. The Farg, a rivulet rising
on the borders of Kinross-shire and flowing into the
Earn about lj mile west from Abemethy, abounds
with small trout. There is another small rivulet,
the Ballo burn, anciently called the Trent, which
flows through what is called the glen of Abemethy.
The principal landowners are the Earl of Mansfield,
the Earl of Wemyss, Sir Thomas Moncrieffe of
Moncrieffe, Paterson of Carpow, Tod of Ayton, and
several others. The valued rent is £8,884 15s. Id.
Scots. Assessed property in 1865, £13,422 17s. 5d.
Annual value of raw produce, as estimated in 1842,
£26,274 10s. The branch of the North British rail-
way toward Perth has a station on the north side of
the town of Abemethy, 3 miles from Newburgh and
7 A from Perth. Population of the entire parish, in
1831, 1,776; in 1861, 1,960. Houses, 349. Popu-
lation of the Fifeshire portion in 1831, 164; in 1861,
147. Houses, 30.
The town of Abernethv is nearly in the centre
of the parish ; stands amidst numerous recent cot-
tages, which are let to summer visitors; and con-
sists of sheets without any plan and badly edificed.
It is a burgh of barony under Lord Douglas, com-
ing in place of the Earls of Angus. It has a
charter from Archibald, Earl of Angus, Lord of
Abemethy, dated August 23, 1476; which was
confirmed by charter of William, Earl of Angus,
dated November 29, 1628. There is a post office
here ; and fairs are held on the 12th day of Febru-
ary, on the fourth Wednesday of May, and on the
second Thursday of November. Population in 1841,
827 ; in 1861, 984. This place, though " now a
mean village," says Dr. Jamieson, " once boasted
high honours, and had very considerable extent. It
would appear that it was a royal residence in the
reign of one of the Pictish princes who bore the
name of Nethan or Nectan. The Pictish chronicle
has ascribed the foundation of Ahernethy to Nethan
I., in the third year of his reign, corresponding with
A. d. 458. The Register of St. Andrews, with greater
probability, gives it to Nethan II., about the year
600. Fordun and Wyntoun agree in assigning it
to Garnat, or Garnard, the predecessor of the second
Nethan. Abemethy had existed as a royal seat
perhaps before the building of any conspicuous place
of worship. For we leam, that the Nethan referred to
' sacrificed to God and St. Bridget at Abumethige ; '
and that the same Nethan, ' king of all the provinces
of the Picts, gave as an offering to St. Bridget, Apur-
nethige, till the day of judgment.' Fordun expressly
asserts, that, when this donation was made, Aher-
nethy was ' the chief seat, both regal and pontifical,
of the whole kingdom of the Picts.' He afterwards
relates, that, in the year 1072, Malcolm Canmore
did homage, in the place called Abemethy, to Wil-
liam the Bastard, for the lands which he held in
England. I have elsewhere thrown out a conjec-
ture that this place may have been denominated
from the name of Nethan the founder. It has been
said, indeed, that ' the name which Highlanders give
to Abemethy, is Obair or Abair Neachtain, that is,
the work of Nechtan.' But it seems preferable to
derive it from Nethy, the brook on which it stands."
But no such brook is here. — There are two villages
in the parish. — Aberdargie and Glenfoot.
This parish is in the presbytery of Perth, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Stipend, £256 5s. 7d.;
with a glebe of the value of £15, and a manse. Pa-
tron, the Earl of Mansfield. There are about £270
unappropriated teinds. The schoolmaster has the
maximum salary, with the interest of a mortification
of £190, and some other small fees. The parish
church is a plain structure, built in 1802, and has
about 600 sittings. Here are also a Free church and
an United Presbyterian church. The sum raised by
the F. church congregation in 1865 was £95 7s.
6d. The attendance at the U. P. church is from
350 to 400. There is one private school. Aher-
nethy was in ancient times the seat of an episcopal
see. When Kenneth III. had subdued the Picts, he
translated the see to St. Andrews ; but long before
this, Abemethy was known as a principal scat of
the Culdees. While they held it, there was an uni-
versity here for the education of youth, as appears
from the Priory book of St. Andrews. In the year
1273 — by which time the Culdees were much dis-
couraged— it was turned into a priory of canons-re-
gular of St. Augustine, who were brought, it is said,
from the abbey of Inchaffray. The Eev. Alexander
Moncrieff, one of the four founders of the Secession
Church, was minister of Abemethy, and proprietor
of Culfargie, a considerable estate in the parish.
The Eev. John Brown of Haddington, so well known
for his theological writings, was a native of this
parish.
In the church-yard stands a tower of an extraor-
dinary construction. South-west from the kirk-
town there is a hill, called Castle-law. Dr. Jamie-
son says : " Although the round tower of Abemethy
has attracted the attention of many travellers and
writers, and been the subject of various hypotheses,
no one has ever thought of viewing it as connected
with the royal residence; as it was undoubtedly
used for some ecclesiastical purpose. That good-
hunioured old writer, Adamson, assigns a singular
reason for the erection of this building ; while he
seems not to have known that there was another
of the same description at Brechin, considerably
higher than this. He pretends that this was built
by the Picts to prevent the Scots from trampling on
the body of their king after his death: —
ABERNETHY.
24
ABERNETHY.
Passing the river Earne, on th' other side, —
Thence to the Pights great Metropolitan,
Where stands a steeple, the like in all Britaine
Not to he found againe, a work of wonder,
So tall and rouna in frame, a just cylinder,
Built by the Pights in honour of their king,
That of the Scots none should attempt such thing,
As over his bellie big to walk or ride,
But this strong hold should make him to abide.
Muse's Threnodie, p. 172.
The tower is hollow, and has a recent staircase.
At the bottom are two rows of stones, projecting as
a sort of pedestal. It is 75 feet in height, and con-
sists of 64 regular courses of hewn stones. At the
base it measures 48 feet in circumference, but di-
minishes somewhat towards the top ; the thickness
of the wall being Si feet at the bottom, and 3 at the
top. It has only one door, facing the north ; 8 feet
in height, 3 wide, and arched. Towards the top
are four windows ; they are equidistant; 5 feet 9
inches in height, and 2 feet 2 inches in breadth ;
each being supported by two small pillars. Some
intelligent visitors assert, that, whatever may have
been the original design of this work, it has at one
time been used as a cemetery. Where the earth has
been dug up, to the depth of three feet, a number of
human bones have been found in the exact position
in which they must have been interred; which, it is
urged, would not have been the case, had they been
thrown in from the adjoining ground. It stands at
the corner of the present churchyard. ' South-west
from the town,' we are told in the ' Statistical Ac-
count,' ' there is a hill, called Castle-law. Tradition
says, that there was a fort upon the top of it.'
' This,' it is subjoined, ' probably served for one of
those watch-towers on which the Picts used to kin-
dle fires, on sudden invasions, insurrections, or the
approach of the enemy. But if any place bids fair
to have been the site of a royal residence, this seems
to have a principal claim.' It follows, however:
• About a mile and a half east from Abernethy, a
little below the mansion-house of Carpow, stood the
ancient castle which belonged to the lords of Aber-
nethy; part of its foundation may be still seen.'
Now, it might be supposed that here, as in other in-
stances, the person who obtained the grant of royal
domains would prefer the occupation of the ancient
residence to the erection of a new one. The dis-
tance would be no objection. For I have else-
where proved, from the most ancient authority, that,
during the Pictish era, Abernethy was far more
extensive than it now is ; as the king, in his dona-
tion to St. Brigid, extends its limits to a stone near
Carpow. I acknowledge, however, that the place
called Castle-law seems to claim the preference.
For, from the most minute inquiry, I learn that there
is a tradition, perfectly familiar to every one in the
vicinity, that this was the residence of the ancient
Pictish kings. In confirmation of this article of
traditionary belief, an appeal is made, not only to
the vast quantity of stones still remaining on this
hill, but to the description of those that have been
carried off in successive ages. Unlike the materials
of the cairns, which are so commonly met with in
our country, these have, in a great measure, been
hewn stones. A house in the neighbourhood has,
of late, been entirely built of dressed stones carried
off from the Law. There seems, therefore, to be no
reason to doubt that this has been the site of veiy
extensive and superb buildings. The remains of a
surrounding moat are yet to be traced on the west
side. At the bottom of this hill, an eminence is
called the Quarrel-know, i. e. knoll, where, accord-
ing to tradition, the Picts were wont to celebrate
their military games. This may have been its ori-
ginal appropriation, whence in later ages it might
continue to be employed for similar purposes. But
the name itself can hardly claim so early an origin;
having most probably been given to it, in an age in
which the use of the cross-bow was common, from
the designation of the arrow shot from it, which was
called a quarrel; unless the term should be traced
to our old Scottish word quarrell, or querell, denoting
a quarry. The view from this elevation has been
deemed worthy of its ancient royal honours, as scarce-
ly excelled by any in Scotland, — a country so rich
in beautiful and picturesque prospects. While the
classic Earn unites with the noble Tay at your feet,
the eye is delighted with the richness of the carse
of Gowrie ; and the prosperous town of Dundee is
seen in the distance, with the numerous sails that
enliven the expanding river in its course to what
was anciently denominated the Scythic sea." — In
the south-west corner of the parish, among the hills,
stands Balvaird castle, which belonged to the Hur-
rays of Balvaird, in the reign of Robert II. It is
now the property of the Earl of Mansfield, the lineal
descendant of that ancient b rase.
ABERNETHY. A highland parish, partly in
Morayshire and partly in Inverness-shire. It is
bounded, on the north, by the parishes of Duthill
and Inverallan; on the east, by Banffshire; on the
south, by Braemar ; and on the west, by the river
Spey. Its post-town is Grantown; but it has a
sub-office of its own. It comprises the old parish of
Abernethy and the parish of Kincardine or Kin-
chardine — the latter united to it about the time of
the Reformation, and lying wholly in Inverness-
shire ; and it is sometimes known as the united par-
ish of Abernethy and Kinchardine. The name is
descriptive of the situation of the kirk-town with
respect to the Nethy, being within a mile of the fall
of that stream into the Spey. The meaning of the
name Nethy, or Neich, is not known; that of Kin-
chardine, or Kinie-chairdin, is ' the Clan of Friends.'
The parish is 15 miles in length, measured from
Cromdale on the north to Rothiemurchus on the
south; and from 10 to 12 in breadth. The surface
is highly diversified with haughs, woods, and moun-
tains. A stretch of about 3 miles of low land and
meadowy along the bank of the Spey, is often over-
flowed by that river, which here runs smooth and
slow. The arable ground bears but a small propor-
tion to the uncultivated. A great proportion of the
surface is covered with woods. On the Grant estate
alone there are 7,000 acres of natural fir-wood. — The
only river of any note, besides the Spey, is the
Nethy, which, rising on the northern side of the hills
to the east of Cairngorm, known as the Braes of
Abernethy, flows in a north-west direction through
the forests, and empties itself into the Spey, 4
miles above Grantown. It is about 12 miles in
length, and is a rapid running stream; after rains,
or thaws, it swells so as to bring down the timber
that has been cut in the forests of Grant to the Spey,
whence it is sent in rafts to Garmouth. There is a
bridge over the Nethy about a mile above its con-
fluence with the Spey, having a water-way of 84
feet. A little to the east of the Nethy is the burn
of Cultmore. The Dualg burn flows into the Spey
about 4 miles above the Nethy. There are several
small lakes in Kincardine, the most considerable of
which is Loch Morlach, in Glenmore. It is of an oval
form, and nearly two miles in diameter. It is in the
bottom of the glen, and surrounded with aged fir-
woods, which rise gradually towards the mountains.
It discharges itself into the Spey by the Morlach
burn, which is about 4 miles in length. In Glenmore
there is another small loch, in extent about one acre,
which abounds with small fat green trout. At the
foot of Cairngorm, about a mile frcm its base, if
ABERNYTE.
25
ABOYNE.
Loch Avon, whence the river of that name issues.
At one end of this loch is a large natural cave, called
Chlachdhian, or 'the Sheltering stone.' Of the
mountains of this parish, Cairngorm, or, ' the Blue
mountain,' is the most remarkable. It commands
an extensive view. The shires of Koss, Sutherland,
and Caithness, are seen from its summit. See
C.uunoorm. A vast business in the cutting down
of timber in the mountains, and floating it dowr^the
Ncthy and the Spey, was commenced by the York
Building Company about the year 1730, and resumed
at a later period, and has conferred great benefits on
the population. The practices of agriculture, iu the
low tracts, have in recent times undergone wonder-
ful improvement. The chief landowner is the Earl
ofSeafield. Assessed property in I860, •£•1,764. The
Strathspey railway terminates here. Population of
the parish in 1831, 2,092 ; in 1861, 1,928. Houses,
404. Population of the Morayshire portion in 1831,
1,258; iu 1861, 1,141. Houses, 234._
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Abernethy, and synod of Moray. Patron,
the Earl of Seafield. Stipend, £234 2s. Id., with a
glebe valued at £7, and a manse. Unappropriated
teinds £98. Schoolmaster's salary in 1865, £45,
with about £20 fees. The church of Kincardine is
8 milesdistant from the kirktown of Abernethy. The
parish-minister officiates two successive Sabbaths in
Abernethy church, and every third Sabbath in that
of Kincardine. The latter church has sittings for
600; the former, for 1,000. Both are well-built.
There is a Free church at Abernethy; and the
yearly sum raised at it in 1853 was £76 lis. lid., — in
1865, £105 8s. There is a Society's school at Kin-
cardine.— There is a large oblong square building
near the church, called Castle Roy, or the Bed cas-
tle; one side measures 30, the other 20 yards; the
height is about 10. It never was roofed, had no
loop-holes, and only one entrance to the inside.
Neither history nor tradition give any account of it.
— The Hon. John Grant, Chief-justice of Jamaica,
was a native of this parish ; and Francis Grant,
Lord Cullen, and Patrick Grant, Lord Preston-
grange, both eminent jurisconsults, and lords of ses-
sion, were connected with this parish. At Knock
of Kincardine was born, in 1700, John Stuart, com-
monly called John Boy Stuart. He was a good
Gaelic poet.
ABERNYTE, a parish in the Sidlaw-hills district
of Perthshire. It is bounded by the parishes of
Cargill, Longforgan, Inchture, Kinnaird, and Collace.
Its post-town is Inchture. Its length is nearly 3
miles ; and its greatest breadth is about 2 miles. It
has an area of about 2,600 acres, of which a little up-
wards of 1,700 are under cultivation. The kirk-town,
near thecentre of the parish, is situated 1 1 miles north-
east of Perth, and stands in a fine valley intersected
by a stream flowing south-east into the estuaiy of the
Tay The highest point in the parish is the King's
seal, on the northern extremity, which rises to the
height of 1,155 feet, and commands a fine view
southwards to the frith of Forth. The general de-
clination of the country is towards the south-east.
Upon the top of a hill caUed Glenny-law are two cairns,
supposed to cover the remains of the slain in a feud
between the Grays of Fowlis and the Boyds of Pit-
kindie. Population in 1831, 254; in 1861, 310.
Houses, 67. Assessed property in 1865, £2,937
17s. 8d.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the pres-
bytery of Dundee, and synod of Angus and Mearns.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £159 lis. 3d.; glebe,
£14. Schoolmaster's salary now is £50, with about
£25 fees, and £4 10s. other emoluments. The parish
church was built in 1736, and may accommodate
the whole population. There is a Free church for
Abernyte and Rait; and the yearly sum raised in
connexion with it in 18G5 was £123 4s. 8d.
ABER-RUTHVEN. See Auchterarder.
ABERTARF. See Boleskixe.
ABERUCHILL. See Comkee.
AB1NGTON, a village, with a post-office, in the
parish of Crawford-John, Lanarkshire. It stands
near the confluence of Glengonnar Water with the
Clyde, at the junction of the road down Glengonnar
Water from Leadhills with the road from Dumfries
by Elvanfoot to Glasgow, and near a station on the
main trunk of the Caledonian railway, 5 miles from
Lamington, and 48J from Edinburgh. It is a neat
and picturesque place, and is the rendezvous for the
coursing matches in which the best dogs of England
and Ireland are pitted against those of the west of
Scotland. .Gold is said to have been obtained from
mines wrought in this neighbourhood in the reign of
James VI. Population of the village, 135.
ABOYNE, a parish in the Deeside district of
Aberdeenshire. It is bounded, on the south, by
Forfarshire, and on other sides by the parishes of
Glenmuick, Coull, Lumphanan, and Birse. It con-
tains the village and post-office of Charlestowx op
Aboyxe: which see. Its greatest length is about 13
miles; audits greatest breadth about 12 miles. A
detached part, with a population of about 60, lies
beyond Birse, on the left bank of the Feugh. The
present parish comprises two old parishes, Aboyne
and Glentanner, and is frequently designated the
united parish of Aboyne and Glentanner. The en-
tire area of the united parish is about 29,000 acres,
of which nearly 3,000 acres are arable. By far the
greater part of the rest is covered with heath. The
extensive forest of Glentanner, composed of Scotch
fir, once the finest in the county, is now all sold,
and nearly all cut; and the splendid plantations oi
the same wood about Aboyne castle are also nearly
all exposed to the same fate. There is little if any
hard wood in the parish, and none of great size.
About five-sixths of the parish are held under en-
tail. Four-fifths of it is the property of the Marquis
of Huntly ; and the rest belongs principally to Mr.
Farquharson of Finzean, Mr. Dyce Nicol of Ball-
ogie, and the Earl of Aberdeen. Assessed property
in 1864-5, £6,290, including £280 in the Deeside rail-
way, which ha> a station here, and is to be extended
to Bridge of Gairn. Farms are generally very small,
the soil light and early, and chiefly adapted for tur-
nip husbandry. The principal mansion is Aboyne
castle, a large massive building which has been en-
larged and improved by the Marquis of Huntly.
The site is rather low, but is finely sheltered and
surrounded by well-laid out and extensive enclo-
sures. About a mile to the south the Dee is crossed
by an elegant suspension - bridge. The turnpike
from Aberdeen to Braemar runs through part of the
parish ; and various lines of commutation road also
pass through it. The Dee runs about 6 miles
through and along the parish, and receives in its
course a few tributary streams, the principal of
which is the Tanner from the south. The parish is
very hilly, particularly in Glentanner, where some
of the hills attain a considerable altitude. Tumuli
abound in various parts of the parish, but most in
the north part. Some urns with calcined bones
have been dug up in Glentanner, which indicate
that the Romans had visited this part of Scotland at
some time. There are three burying-grounds in the
parish, one in Glentanner and two in Aboyne.
Tradition has it that the pest or plague, had at one
time raged with great violence here ; and that it was
first observed to abate on the Mondays and Fridays,
after which the people should have immediately ah-
ACHALICK.
26
ACHRAY.
stained from breaking ground in the churchyard of I
Glentanner on those days of the week, out of grati-
tude for the appearance of deliverance from such an
awful enemy to the human race. The observance,
which is still most scrupulously adhered to, has
more likely had its origin in the dark days of igno-
rance and popish superstition. The title of Earl of
Aboyne merged, in 1833, in that of Marquis of
Huntly. It was created by James VI. in 1599.
Population in 1831, 1,163; in 1861, 1,160. Houses,
211.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kincardine
O'Neill, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Mar-
quis of Huntly. Stipend, £160 15s. Id., with manse
and glebe. Schoolmaster's salary of Aboyne school,
£35: of Glentanner school, £30. The parish church
is a very handsome edifice, built in 1842, and has
628 sittings. There is a Free church; attendance
at it 150 ; sum raised in 1865, £44 1 1 s. 5-i-d. There
is a female school supported bv Lady Huntly.
ABRUTHVEN. See Auchterarder.
ACH-, or Auch-, a prefix in many topographical
names of Gaelic origin. It signifies simply 'a field,'
in a loose or general sense of that word; so that very
few of the names compounded with it have a gra-
phic character, or even a very definite or well-ascer-
tained reference.
ACHAISTAL. See Latheron.
ACHALHANZIE. See Crieff.
ACHALICK, a bay on the east side of Loch
Fyne, about 3 miles south of Kilfinan church, Ar-
gyleshire.
ACHALL, a lake in the parish of Lochbroom,
Ross-shire. It is situated about 3 miles west of
Ullapool, and is skirted by the road thence to Oikel-
Bridge. It measures about 2J miles in length, and
upwards of 1 mile in breadth : and is variously embo-
somed in green hills, rugged heights, and wooded
promontories ; and, under some aspects, is one of the
prettiest pieces of water in the Highlands.
ACHALLADER, Se.j Glenorchy.
ACHALL Y. See Bexachally and Cluxie.
ACHANDRAINE, a village in the parish of In-
veraiy, Argyleshire. Population, about 80.
ACHANDUIM. See Lismore.
ACHANEILEIN, a quagmire, or quaking bog, of
unknown depth, about three - quarters of a mile
broad, and upwards of 5 miles long, in the parish of
Ardnamurchan, Argyleshire. It lies along the south
side of Lochshiel.
ACHARACLE, or Aharcle, a government church
district in the parish of Ardnamurchan, Argyleshire
and Inverness-shire. It consists chiefly of the east-
em portion of Ardnamurchan, but comprises also a
part of Sunart and a part of Moidart. Its post-town
is Strontian. The church and the manse are situ-
ated at the west end of Lochshiel. The population,
a number of years ago, amounted to 2,026, of whom
1,200 were Roman Catholics. There was a Free
church station for Acharacle and Moidart ; the yearly
sum raised in connexion with which in 1853 was £5
16s. Id.
ACHARAINEY. See Halkirk.
ACHARN, a village in the parish of Kenmore,
Perthshire. It stands on the south shore of Loch
Tay, 1| mile above the village of Kenmore. It is a
neat, snug, little place, and is famous for a pic-
turesque waterfall on a bum which rushes past it
to the lake. "The bum, precipitating its waters
over the side of a deep and wooded dell, first per-
forms a perpendicular descent of fully 50 feet, sep-
arating towards the bottom into two vertical streams,
which are caught by a small basin; whence the wa-
ter escapes by successive inclined leaps, the whole
forming a cascade apparently about 80 or 90 feet
high." [Anderson's Guide to the Highlands.! Po-
pulation of the village, 42.
ACHBRECK, a mission - station on the Royal
Bounty, in Glenlivet, in the parish of Inveraven,
Banffshire. See Glenlivet, Inveraven, and Banff-
shire Railway.
ACHENACRAIG. See Achnacratg.
ACHERUACH. See Strathdon.
ACHESON'S HAVEN, a small harbour near
Prestonpans, in the county of East Lothian. It
was constructed by the monks of Newbottle, on
their grange of Preston. It is often named Mom-
son's haven, from one of its later proprietors.
ACHILTY (Loch). See Coxa-re.
ACHINBLAE. See Adchinblae.
ACHINCASS. See Kjrkpatrick-Juxta
ACHINDAVY. See Auchendavy.
ACHINDUIN. See Lismore.
ACHLOUCHRIE. See Tannadice.
ACHMITHY. See Auchmithy.
ACHMORE. See Weem.
ACHNACARY. See Archaig (Loch).
ACHNACRAIG, or Achexacraig, a small har-
bour, with a post-office, in the parish of Toresay,
and on the east coast of the island of Mull, Argyle-
shire. It is situated at the entrance of Loch Don,
18 miles south-east of Aros, and 132 west by north
of Edinburgh. It is the principal ferry of Mull,
first to the opposite island of Kerrera, a distance of
about 4J miles, and thence to the mainland near
Oban, a distance of 4 miles. Great numbers of
black cattle are conveyed from it for the lowland
markets; and formerly those also from Coll and
Tyree were landed on the farther side of Mull and
reshipped here.
ACHNAGOL, a village in the parish of Inverary,
Argyleshire. Population, about 90.
ACHNAVARN. See Halkirk.
ACHRANNIE (Slugs of), two romantic cataracts
on the river Isla, on the boundary between the par-
ishes of Glenisla and Liutrathen, Forfarshire.' They
occur about 2 miles below the Reeky linn. See
Isla (The). " The upper one," says the new statist
of Glenisla, " is the most deserving of notice. Here
the river is suddenly contracted by stupendous cliffs
into a space scarcely exceeding 3 yards in breadth.
Through this frightful chasm the deep boiling flood
forces itself with tremendous power, and in curling
wreaths' of foam, thunders down a steep broken
channel of considerable length, into a gloomy but
spacious ravine, walled by rocks quite perpendicular
and of great altitude. These are surmounted by a
profusion of trees, exceedingly rich and varied in
their foliage, which the hand of man never planted,
and many of which he will never dare to approach."
ACHRAY (Loch), a beautiful sheet of water in
Perthshire, between Loch-Katrine and Loch-Ven-
nachar, and at a nearly equal distance from both.
With these lakes it is connected by two small
streams, — one of which flows into its western ex-
tremity from Loch-Katrine, while the other, issuing
from its eastern end, carries its waters into Loch-
Vennachar. The lake receives its name from the
farm of Achray , situated on its south-western shore ;
the term in Gaelic signifies ' the level field.' Loch-
Achray, therefore, means ' the lake of the level
field.' Compared with either of its sister-lochs,
Loch- Achray is but of small dimensions ; its utmost
length being about a mile, and its breadth scarcely
half-a-mile ; but the epithet ' lovely ' has been, with
peculiar propriety, applied to this lake by Sir Wal-
ter Scott, as it is hardly possible to conceive any
natural sceneiy more lovely than that presented by
the shores of Loch-Achray. The northern shore is
bold and rocky, but its harsher features are softened
:
AJ-aHari : . .
ADAM'S ROW.
27
AILSA CRAIG.
bv a rich covering of wood and ' bosky thickets' to
the water's edge, —
" the copscwood grey,
That waves and weeps on Loch-Achray."
On the south, the ground rises more gradually from
the lake, hut it is mostly clad with heath. This
soft and gentle character, however, can only he ap-
plied to the lake, its hays and shores, and their im-
mediate vicinity; for beyond this we have lofty
mountains rearing their rugged and often cloud-
capp'd heads in awful majesty, and deep and silent
glens and ravines through which the upland streams
seek their way to the lakes. On the shores of
Loch-Aehray we are still within the power of the
magician's spell ; and so thoroughly has he peopled
the visions of our fancy with the creations of his
own imagination that we look for the localities of
his poem, as we did at Loch-Katrine, with as per-
fect a faith, and gaze on them when found with as
much devotion, as we should on the scenes of some
of the most important transactions in our national
annals. Along these shores the messenger of Rod-
eric Dim carried the fiery cross, to alarm and call
to the rendezvous the sons of Alpine ; and he who,
giving himself up to the magic influence of the
minstrel's strain, delights to blend together the real
truth and the ideal in his conceptions, will re-
member how
" Fast as the fatal symbol flies,
In arms the huts and hamlets rise;
From winding glen, from upland brown,
They pour'd each hardy tenant down."
Wear the east end of Loeh-Achray, and before the
traveller from Callander approaches it, he passes
over ' the Brigg of Turk,' one of the localities of the
poem. See Glexfixglass and Tkosachs.
ACKEEGILL. See Wick.
ACKERNESS. See Westray.
ADAM. See Wiiitekirk.
ADAM'S ROW, a village in the parish of New-
town, Edinburghshire. Population, 249.
ADD (The), a river of the west side of Argyle-
shire. It rises in some marshes in the north-west
extremity of the parish of Glassary; and in its
winding course south-westward receives several trib-
utaries, and acquires a considerable volume. It
flows along the valley of Glassary, and through the
moss of Crinan, and falls into the sea at Inner Loch
Crinan. It occasionally, in heavy rains, overflows
its banks, and does much injury to adjacent fields.
It abounds with trout ; and there is a salmon fish-
ery at its mouth.
'ADIE HILL. See Ratiivex.
ADVIE, an ancient vicarage and district, partly
m Moray, partly in Inverness-shire, now compre-
hended in the parish of Cromdale ; 8 miles north-
east from Grantown. This district contains the
barony of Advie on the eastern, and the barony of
Tnlchen on the western side of the Spey. These
baronies, anciently a part of the estate of the Earl
of Fife, came to the family of Ballendalloeh in the
15th century, with whom they continued, until sold
to Brigadier Alexander Grant.
AE (The), or Water of Ae, a river of Dumfries-
shire. It rises at the southern foot of Queensberry-
hill, runs south for some miles to Glencross in Kirk-
mahoe, forming the boundary between Closebum
and Kirkniichael parishes ; then bending its course
south-eastward, forms a junction at Esby with the
Kinnel, a branch of the Annan. Its tributaries are
the Deer bum, the Branet burn, the Garrel, Capple
water, and Glenkill burn. Its length of course, in-
cluding windings, is about 16 miles. It is a rapid
stream, and very subject to sudden and powerful
floods ; and as it flows much on a broad gravelly bed,
through a country but slightly above its own level,
it often does considerable injury, and is constantly
undermining its hanks and altering its course.
.zEBUD/li and yE.MoD.ra. See Hebrides.
AEN. See Aan.
AFFLECK. See Auchinleck.
AFFORSK, a picturesque ravine, in the parish of
Gamrie, Banffshire. It is deep and winding, and
has precipitous, diversified, and luxuriantly plant-
clad sides, and passes down in a profusion of ro-
mance from the interior of the parish, past the old
church, to the sea. See Gamrie.
AFFRICK (Loch), a lake on the mutual boun-
dary of the parishes of Kilmorack and Kiltar-
lity, in the north-western part of the mainland of
Inverness-shire. It measures about 7 miles in
length and about one mile in breadth, and extends
in a north-easterly direction. It is very deep, and
abounds in different lands of small fish. The river
Glass flows out of it, and soon expands into two
other lakes of respectively 3 miles and 4 miles in
length, and sometimes bears here the name of the
Aflrick. All the strath of the three lakes, and of
the intervening runs of the river, is sublimely pic-
turesque, and it possesses fine remains of the an
cient Caledonian forest.
AFTON, a rivnlet of Ayrshire. It rises among
the uplands near the meeting-point of Ayrshire,
Dumfries-shire, and Kircudbrightshire ; and flows 8
miles northward to the Nith at the east side of the
village of New Cumnock. Its current is rapid, and
its course lies along a beautiful valley, to which it
gives the name of Glenafton. It is noticed in one
of the effusions of Bums.
AFTON BRIDGEND, a village in the parish of
New Cumnock, taking its name from its situation
on the rivulet Afton, Ayrshire. Population in 1861.
301.
AHAECLE. See Acharacle.
AIGAS, or Ellean-Aigas, a beautiful island, 5J
miles south-west from Beauly, formed by the river
Beauly, which here divides into two branches. It
is of an oval figure, about 1J mile in circumference;
and contains about 50 acres. It is principally com-
posed of a mass of pudding-stone, rising in an abrupt
manner about 100 feet above the level of the water,
but communicating with the mainland by a bridge.
It is covered with natural wood of birch and oak,
and is much frequented by roes, and occasionally by
red deer. To this island Simon, Lord Lovat, con-
ducted the dowager Lady Lovat, when letters of fire
and sword were issued against him in 1697 ; and
here, in a crow-stepped building in the old Scottish
style, erected by Lord Lovat, reside the only de-
scendants of Prince Charles Edward Stuart. The
wild turkey of America was introduced to the island
in the summer of 1842. See Kilmorack.
AIKENHAULD. See Oathxaw.
AIKERNESS. See Pomona.
AIKY. See Deer (New).
AILSA CRAIG, a stupendous insulated rock, or
rather mountain, in the mouth of the frith of Clyde,
between the coasts of Ayrshire and Kintyre ; in N.
lat. 55° 15' 13" ; W. long. 5° 7', according to Gal-
braith, but according to Norie, in N. lat. 55° 17' 0";
W. long. 5° 8' 0". From the islet of Pladda it is
distant 10' 20" direct south. It is a mass of co-
lumnar syenetio trap, shooting up in a conical form,
to an altitude of 1,100 feet according to Macculloch,
from an elliptical base of 3,300 feet in the major
axis, by 2,200 in the minor. Its formation is dis-
tinctly columnar, especially on the western side, in
which the rock rises quite perpendicularly from the
sea. Dr. Macculloch says, that "if a single pillar
be examined near at hand, it will be found far less
decided in shape than those of Staffa or Skye, while
the whole mass appears as if blended together, not as
if each column could be separated; but, when
viewed in the mass, the general effect of a columnar
and regular structure is as perfect as on the north
coast of Skye," while the diameter of the columns far
exceeds those of Skye, ranging from 6 to 9 feet, and,
in one place, attaining an unbroken altitude of near-
ly 400 feet. The only landing-place is on the east
side, where there is a small beach formed by fallen
fragments of the rock. From this, an easy ascent
of 200 feet conducts us to the ruins of a square
building of which nothing is known, though Mac-
culloch conjectures it may have been an eremitical
establishment dependent on Lamlash in Arran. Be-
yond this building the ascent is extremely laborious,
the visitor having to force his way over fragments
of rock, and through a forest of gigantic nettles.
Not far from the summit are two copious springs ;
the summit itself is covered with fine herbage, but
affords only a scanty and somewhat perilous footing.
The aspect of this vast and ' craggy ocean pyramid'
" from any distance, and in every direction," says
Macculloch, " is very grand, and conveys an idea of
a mountain of far greater magnitude ; since, as its
beautiful cone rises suddenly out of the sea, there is
no object with which it can be compared. From its
solitary and detached position also, it frequently ar-
rests the flight of the clouds, hence deriving a misty
■ hue which more than doubles its altitude to the im-
agination ; while the cap of cloud which so often
covers its summit, helps to produce, by concealing
its height, the effect — invariable in such cases — of
causing it to appear far higher than it really is ;
adding that appearance of mystery to which moun-
tains owe so much of their consequence. What
Ailsa promises at a distance, it far more than per-
forms on an intimate acquaintance. If it has not
the regularity of Staffa, it exceeds that island as
much in grandeur and variety as it does in absolute
bulk. There is indeed nothing, even in the co-
lumnar scenery of Skye or in the Shiant isles, su-
perior as these are to Staffa, which exceeds, if it even
equals, that of Ailsa. In point of colouring, these
cliffs have an infinite advantage ; the sobriety of
their pale grey stone, not only harmonizing with the
subdued tints of green, and with the colours of the
sea and the sky, but setting off to advantage all the
intricacies of the columnar structure ; while, in all
the Western islands where this kind of scenery oc-
curs, the blackness of the rocks is not only often
inharmonious and harsh, but a frequent source of
obscurity and confusion."
Ailsa Craig is occupied throughout the warm
parts of the year by innumerable legions of sea-
fowl; and a favourite feat, in pleasure excursions
by steam- boat from Glasgow, is to sail near the stu-
pendous cliffs, and to fire a swivel against them so
as to give a sudden and universal alarm to the birds.
The scene which follows is wondrously sublime, —
seeming as if the mountain were resolving itself
into great dense clouds of feathered creatures, with
an accompaniment of cawing and screaming almost
terrific; but, at the same time, it is so very singu-
lar, so exceedingly unlike every other kind of sub-
lime scene, that some attempts which spirited
writers have made to describe it, though all true
and graphic to persons who have witnessed it,
appear bombastic and nonsensical to those who have
not. An intelligent tacksman pays £34 a-year for
the use of the rock; and, along with two or three
assistants, spends the whole summer, from the
month of May onward, in alternately fowling and
fishing. The birds are of value chiefly for their
feathers, for the stuffing of beds; and they are
caught in two methods. X)ne of these is to spread
a large net over any traversable part of the surface,
and to leave it there for a sufficient time to allow
them to settle down upon it ; and when it is visited,
it generally has entangled as many as will fill a
sack or two, and the fowler needs only to pick them
out and despatch them. The other method is exactly
similar to the perilous one practised at St. Kilda.
Morning and evening, when the birds are quiescent,
the tacksman or an assistant is let down from the
summit against the face of the precipice, by means
of a rope securely held by two persons above. The
man, thus dangling between sky and sea, is armed
with a long pole carrying a hair gin; and he slips
the gin over the head of each slumbering fowl,
draws tight the loop, and then flings down the car-
case to the foot of the precipice to be picked up at
leisure by a boat. Notwithstanding the immense
numbers which are thus taken, the feathered colo-
nies of the Craig never look as if they had sustained
any diminution, but seem, amid all the trackings of
desolation which pass over them, to be like the sea,
which " takes no furrow from the keel." Toward
the end of summer, the colonies have completed the
purposes of their yearly sojourn, and begin to leave
in detachments according to their kind; and early
in autumn the myriads of solan geese, cormorants,
puffins, links, and gulls, have entirely taken their
departure for other regions. The rock, however,
is even then not without inhabitants; for, in addi-
tion to great numbers of rabbits, between forty and
fifty goats work hard amongst the cliffs for a decent
subsistence. The rabbits are thinned during the
month of January, when, according to the season,
from 50 to 100 dozens are taken off the rock; and
as their quality is generally excellent, they are
great favourites in the market.
Ailsa Craig is situated about 15 miles west of the
town of Girvan, and belongs proprietorially to the
barony of Knoekgerran, in the parish of Dailly. A
scheme was agitated, a number of years ago, to
make it a fishing station for the supply of Glasgow
and Liverpool, by means of the steam-boats which
regularly pass it, and some buildings for the pur-
pose were commenced, but the scheme was aban-
doned. The noble family of Kennedy, Earls of Cas-
silis in the peerage of Scotland, are proprietors of
Ailsa Craig, and take from it their titles of Baron
and Marquis in the peerage of the United Kingdom.
Archibald, twelfth Earl of Cassilis, was created
Marquis of Ailsa in 1831; and his grandson suc-
ceeded to his titles in 1846. The family seats are
Colzean Castle and Cassilis Castle, which see;
and see also the article Maybole.
AIRD, or Ann, any isolated height, of an abrupt
or hummocky character, either on the coast or in
the interior. The name by itself, chiefly in the
form of Aird, occurs sometimes, yet not often, in
Scottish topography ; but in combination, as a pre-
fix, chiefly in the form of Ard, it is of veiy frequent
occurrence. Some words compounded with it refer
to legendary circumstances, as Airdrie, " the king's
height;" others refer to events in authentic history,
as Ardchattan, " the height of Catan," one of the
companions of Columba; but the great majority are
descriptive of the localities themselves, as to either
character or relative situation, as Ardclach, " the
stony height," Ardnamurchan, " the height of the
narrow seas."
AIRD, a hamlet in the parish of Inch, Wigton-
shire.
AIRD (Castle of), an extensive ruin, supposed
to be the remains of a Danish fortification, situated
on a rocky promontory a little to the north of Cara-
AIKD.
2y
AIKDKLE.
dell point, on the eastern side of Kintyre, opposite
Machry bay in the island of Arran.
AIKD (The), a fertile district of Inverness-shire,
in the vale of the Bcauly, chiefly the property of
different branches of the elan Fraser.
AIRD (The), a peninsula on the east coast of the
island of Lewis, with which it is connected by the
isthmus of Stornoway. It measures 5 miles in ex-
treme length from Tuimpan-head on the north-east,
to Chicken-head on the south - west ; its average
breadth is about 2 J miles. It is in the parish of
Stornoway, to which in ancient times it formed a
chapelry called Ui or Uy. The old chapel is in
ruins, but the inhabitants attend a government cha-
pel at Knock. See Lewis and Stornoway.
AIRD LYNN. See Shinnel.
AIRD OF APPIN. See Aieds.
AIRD OF COIGACH. See Coigach.
AIRD POINT, the north-eastern extremity of
the island of Skye, nearly opposite the mouth of the
Gairloch in Ross-shire.
AIRDLAMONT. See Ardlajiont.
AIRDLE, or Ardle (The), a small river of the
north-eastern part of Perthshire. It is formed by
the union of two streams, — one descending from the
Grampians, in the east forest of Athole, through
Glen Femal, — and the other flowing from the west
through Glen Briaraehan. These streams unite at
Tulloeh, and assume the name of the Airdle, which
flows south-east through Strath- Airdle in the parish
of Kirkmichael, and unites with the Shee a little
below Nether Traquhair. The two united streams
form the Ekicht : which see. The total course of
the Airdle is about 13 miles.
AIRDMEANACH. See Ardmeanach.
AIRDNAMDRCHAN. See Akdnamurchan.
AIRDRIE, a post and market town and parlia-
mentary burgh, in the palish of New Monkland,
Lanarkshire. It stands on the principal line of
road between Glasgow and Edinburgh, 11 miles
east by north of Glasgow, and 32 miles west by
south of Edinburgh. Its site is a rising ground,
between two rivulets, sloping gently to the west,
but presenting no marked or interesting features.
Chalmers thinks that this place is the Arderyth of
the ancient Britons, where, in the year 577, Ryd-
derech the Bountiful, king of Strathclyde, defeated
Aidan the Perfidious, king of Kintyre, and slew
Givenddolan the patron of Merlin, who was also
engaged in the battle. But so recently as about
130 years ago it continued in a strictly rural condi-
tion, and was occupied only by a farm hamlet. The
surrounding country is still bleak, but has assumed
an appearance of high general interest from the stir
and achievements of manifold industry. The town
is well-built, and has an aspect of tidiness, good
taste, and great prosperity. The principal street
extends along the Glasgow and Edinburgh road,
and is spacious and airy. The town as a whole is
not compact, yet on the other hand is free from all
disagreeable compression and unhealthy closeness.
It owes its rise and progress to the working of the
rich and extensive beds of ironstone and coal which
surround it, — to facilities of communication by road
and canal and railway with the great markets and
outlets of the west, — and to a large share in the
weaving orders of the manufacturers of Glasgow;
and, both in the spiritedness of its population and
m the neatness of its streets and buildings, it does
ample credit to the circumstances of its position
and its histoiy.
The town-house, erected about 20 years ago, is a
very neat structure, and contains a good town-hall,
a prison, and a police-office. The principal school,
f-alled the Academy, is a neat edifice, built by R. S.
C. Alexander, Esq., oi'Airdrie House, conducted by
a rector and his assistants, and containing a branch
for girls. _ The chief public institutions, commer-
cial, charitable, and miscellaneous, are offices of
the Bank of Scotland, the National Bank of Soot-
land, the Clydesdale Bank, the City of Glasgow
Bank, a savings' bank, a Temperance savings'
Bank, offices of ten insurance companies, a Gas
Company, the Airdrie and Coatbridge Water Com-
pany, the New Monkland Poor-House, the New
Monkland Orphan Society, the Airdrie Charity-
House, the Benevolent Society, the Mechanics' In-
stitution, the Horticultural Society, the Gardeners'
Societies, New Monkland Agricultural Society, the
Phrenological and Literary Society, the Airdrie
Weavers' Friendly Society, the Temperance Society,
and the Airdrie Sabbath School Union. The chief
means of communication with Glasgow are the
Monkland Canal and the Monkland branch of the
Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway; and with Edin-
burgh is the direct Airdrie, Bathgate, and Edinburgh
Railway. See the articles Monkland Canal,
Monkland Railways, Slamannan Railway, and
Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway; and see also
Glasgow and Gaknkirk Railway. The number of
passengers between Airdrie and Glasgow by the
canal alone, previous to the great facility of railway
transit, was upwards of 50,000 a-year. At present
there are five railway trains daily from Airdrie to
Glasgow, and three to Edinburgh.
In 1821, Airdrie was erected into a free burgh of
barony ; and by the Municipal Act it was put
under the government of a provost, three bailies, a
treasurer, and seven councillors ; by the Reform
Act, it was constituted a parliamentary burgh, to
unite with Lanark, Hamilton, Falkirk, and Lin-
lithgow, in sending a member to parliament ; and
by a special act passed in 1849, it acquired all re-
quisite powers for its municipal government and for
all matters of police. The corporation revenue in
1863-4 was £2,700 ; and the municipal and parlia-
mentary constituency was 389. A burgh court is
held every Monday; a sheriffs court every Tuesday;
and a Justice of Peace court, every Thursday. A
market is held every Tuesday ; and fairs are held
on the last Tuesday of May and the third Tuesday
of November. Real property of the burgh in
1861-2, £29,742. Population 'in 1831, 6,594 ; in
1861, 12,922. Houses, 1,259.
Airdrie has a chapel of ease, called the West
church, and had formerly another called the East
church; but the latter, which was built in 1797,
has been taken down. The West church was
opened in 1835, and cost £2,370, and has 1,200 sit-
tings. There are three Free churches, denominated
Broomknoll, the West, and the High ; and the yearly
sum raised in 1865 in connexion with the first was
£201 12s. 7d., with the second £259 0s. llfd.. with
the third £259 6s. Od. There are two United
Presbyterian churches, the one in Well Wynd and
the other in South Bridge-street ; the former a neat
modem structure; each attended by between 500
and 600. There is a Reformed Presbyterian church,
with an attendance of 350. The other places of
worship are one Independent, one Baptist, two
Methodist, and one Roman Catholic. See Monk-
land (New), and Broomknoll.
AIRDRIE, an estate in the parish of Crail, Fife-
shire. It belonged in the reign of David II. to the
family of Dundemore; in the loth century, to the
Lumsdens; in the reign of James VI. to Sir John
Preston, president of the court of session; after-
wards to General Anstruther; and latterly, to
Methven Erskine, Esq., who became Earl of Kellie,
I and died here in 1830. The mansion is embosomed
AIRDKIE-HILL.
30
AIRLIE.
hi wood, and crowns a swelling ground at the dis-
tance of 2i miles from the coast, and comprises an
ancient tower from which a magnificent view is
obtained of the expanse and shores of the frith of
Forth from the ocean to Edinburgh, and of the east
coast of Scotland from St. Abb's Head to the Bell-
Rock Lighthouse.
AIRDRIE-HILL, a property, rich in black-band
ironstone, in the vicinity of the town of Airdrie,
parish of New Monkland, Lanarkshire.
AIRDS, a beautiful district of Appin, in Argyle-
shire. It comprises the peninsula between Loch
Limine on the west and north, and Loch Creran on
the south and east. " I do not know a place," says
Macculloch, " where all the elements — often incon-
gruous ones — of mountains, lakes, wood, rocks,
oastles, sea, shipping, and cultivation, are so
strangely intermixed, — where they are so wildly
picturesque, — and where they produce a greater
variety of the most singular and unexpected scenes."
The promontory of Ardmucknish, richly clothed
with oak-coppice, is a remarkably fine object. The
estate of Airds comprises about 3,881 imperial acres,
of which 792 are arable and 1,171 are under wood.
The mansion-house is within J of a mile of Port-
Appin.
AlRDS BAY, a bay on the south side of Loch
Etive, within the district of Muckairn, Argyleshire.
AIRDSMOSS, or Aiesmoss, a large tract of ele-
vated moorland in the district of Kyle, Ayrshire,
lying between the water of Ayr on the north, and
Lugar water on the south. The road from Cum-
nock to Muirkirk may be regarded as its extreme
eastern boundary, and that from Cumnock to Catrine
as its extreme western. It is chiefly in the parish
of Auchinleck ; but the uncultivated tract of moss
does not exceed 5 miles in length, by 2 in breadth.
A severe skirmish took place here, on the 22d of
July 1680, between sixty-three Covenanters and a
party of dragoons ; and a monument popularly called
Cameron's stone, about half a mile west of the road
from Cumnock to Muirkirk, marks the spot where
vke deadliest of the strife occurred. The present
erection is neat and quite modern ; but the original
monument was a large flat stone, laid down about
fifty years after the event, and marked with the
names of the Covenanters who fell in the skirmish,
and with the figure of an open bible and the figure
of a sword grasped by a hand.
The sixty-three Covenanters were among the
staunchest adherents of the famous Sanquhar decla-
ration, which renounced allegiance to the King, and
were headed by Richard Cameron, who was both
their minister and their chief political leader, and
by Hackston of Rathillet, who acted as their mili-
tary commander. They had lain for some time en-
sconced in the moor, aware of danger being near
them; and, in the afternoon of the 22d of July, they
espied a body of well-armed dragoons, about 112 in
number, under the command of Bruce of Earlshall,
coming rapidly on. They had no alternative but to
smrender unconditionally or make a desperate fight
for liberty and life; and they promptly made ready
to offer a stern resistance. Cameron prayed thrice
aloud, •' Lord, spare the green and take the ripe,"
and then made a brief encouraging address to his
brethren. Hackston rode off to seek an advanta-
geous position, but could not find any ; and returned
to the margin of the morass, and there quickly ar-
ranged his little company in the order of eight
horsemen on the right, fifteen horsemen on the left,
and forty foot, many of them badly armed, in the
centre. A detachment of the foot were sent off to
meet about twenty dismounted dragoons, who ad-
vanced to turn the flank of the Covenanters; and
the main body moved forward to confront the chief
force of the enemy, who were coming on at a gal-
lop. The Covenanters' horse rode right up to the
very face of the dragoons, and were the first to fire,
and broke in among their ranks with desperation
and fury. Hackston himself was foremost, and
rode riotously amongst them, and sustained assaults
from several troopers at a time, and pushed forward
and recoiled by turns, and laid about him for many
minutes like an Achilles; and, his horse at last
sinking in the bog, he sprang to his feet, and was
instantly assailed by a heroic dismounted dragoon,
an old acquaintance of his own, of the name of
David Ramsay, and combated him long and fiercely
with the small sword, without either gaming or
yielding any considerable advantage, and was at
length struck down by three mounted dragoons be-
hind him, and then surrendered himself on quarter
to Ramsay. The other horsemen of the Covenanters
fought almost as desperately as their leader, and
neither asked nor gave quarter; but were soon cut
down or captured. The foot did not adequately
support the horse, but delivered their fire at some
distance; and when Hackston fell, most of them
fled far into the wet and sinking parts of the bog,
where the dragoons could not easily or at all follow
them. No fewer than twenty-eight of Earlshall's
dragoons were either killed or mortally wounded in
this skirmish; and the survivors readily acknow-
ledged the great bravery of their antagonists. Only
nine of the Covenanters were slain. Richard
Cameron himself was among the first who fell, and
was shot dead upon the spot where he stood. A
number of others were made prisoners, and taken to
Edinburgh, and were afterwards either tortured,
banished, or executed. The skirmish of Airdsmoss
is the subject of the well-known beautiful effusion,
beginning,
" In a dream of the night I was wafted away,
To ttie moorland of mist where the martyrs lay;
Where Cameron's sword, and his bible are seen,
Engraved on the stone where the heather grows green."
AIRI-INNIS, a lake, about 2 miles long and \ a
mile broad, in the parish of Morvem, Argyleshire.
AIRLIE, a parish on the west border of Forfar-
shire. It is bounded by Perthshire, and by the par-
ishes of Lintrathen, Kingoldrum, Kirriemuir, Glam-
mis, Eassie, and Ruthven. Its post-town is Kirrie-
muir. Its greatest length, from east to west, is 6
miles; and its breadth varies from \ a mile to 4
miles. The Dean river, a sluggish stream flowing
from the Loch of Forfar, forms the southern boun-
dary ; and the romantic Isla, running in a deep rocky
gorge, bounds part of the north and west. The sur-
face of the southern district is part of the howe of
Strathmore, — alluvial and fertile; and the surface of
the other districts rises, in a series of undulating par-
allel ridges, to an extreme height of about 350 feet
above the level of the howe. The glen of the Isla,
along the northern border, with rocky channel, lofty
and precipitous braes, and a profusion of every kind
of brushwood, is a striking series of close picturesque
views. A bog of 128 acres in area, called Baikie
Moss, once lay on the western border, but has all been
brought under cultivation. There are eight land-
owners of £100 Scots valued rent. Assessed pro-
perty in 1865, £9,838 16s. 6d. Baikie castle, the pro-
perty of the last Viscount Fenton, was once a no-
table object; but not a vestige of it now exists.
Airlie castle, the ancient seat of the Ogilvies, Earls
of Airley, is ' the Bonnie House o' Airlie ' of Scot-
tish song. It occupied a commanding site on the
rocky promontory at the confluence of the Melgum
and the Isla, about 5 miles north of Meigle in Strath-
AIRTH.
31
AIRTHREY
more; it possessed great strength of both position
ami masonry, and ranked as one of the proudest and
most massive fortresses in Central Scotland; and,
previous to the introduction of artillery, it must
have been almost if not entirely impregnable. It
had the form of an oblong quadrangle; and occupied
the whole summit of the promontory, with the ex-
ception of a small space at the extremity, which is
traditionally said to have been used for exercising
the horses. The wall which protected it on the
eastern and most accessible side — high and mas-
sive, together with the portcullis entry — still re-
mains in connexion with the modern mansion of
Airlie : and the fosse also continues distinct, but has
been partially filled up, in order to render the place
accessible to carriages. In July 1640, the Earl of
Argyle, acting secretly upon the personal resent-
ment which he had all his life long entertained
against the Ogilvies, but overtly upon an express
commission given him for the public service by the
Committee of Estates, raised a body of 5,000 men of
his own clan, and led them across the Grampians
and down Strathtay to devastate the territories of
the Earl of Airlie. "He is said by an old tradition to
have halted them for the night on the haughs at
the village of Rattray; and, in accordance with this,
though most diminishingly out of reckoning with
regard to the numbers, the old ballad says, —
"Argyle has raised a bunder men,
A hunder men and mairly,
And he's awa doun by tlie back o1 Dunkeld, '
To plunder tbe bonnie house o' Airlie."
The Earl of Airlie at the time was absent in Eng-
land, whither he had gone as much to avoid the ne-
cessity of subscribing the Covenant, as to render
immediate service to the King's cause. Lord Ogil-
vie, the Earl's eldest son, held the charge of Airlie
castle, and had recently maintained it against the
assault of a party under the Earl of Montrose; but,
on the approach of Argyle's army, he regarded all
idea of resisting them as hopeless, and hastily aban-
doned the castle and fled. Argyle's men plundered
the place of everything which they coveted and
could carry away, and tben proceeded to damage
the castle to the utmost of their power by dilapida-
tion and fire ; and Argyle himself acted so earnest a
pari; in the demolition, that, according to the report
of the historian Gordon, " he was seen taking a
hammer in his hand, and knocking down the hewed
work of the doors and windows till he did sweat for
heat at his work." The modem house of Airlie is
a beautiful and commodious residence. The other
mansions are Lindertes House and Baikie House, —
the former a modern structure in the castellated
style. The railway from Newtyle to Glammis runs
along the southern confines of the parish. Popula-
tion m 1831, 860; in 1861, 845. Houses, 171.
This parish is in the presbytery of Meigle, and
svnod of Angus and Mearns. Stipend, £219 Is. 5d.;
glebe, £12. Patron, the Earl of Strathmore. School-
master's salary now is £40, with £13 fees. The
parish church was built in 1783, has 411 sittings,
and is in good repair. There is a Free church; and
the yearly sum raised in connexion with it in 1865,
was £69 10s. 3d. There is a private school.
AIRNTULLY. See Arxtclly.
AIRSMOSS. See Athdsmoss.
AIRTH, a parish, with a post-office village of its
own name, in the carse district of Stirlingshire. It
is bounded by the upper part of the frith of Forth,
and by the parishes of St. Ninians, Larbert, and
Bothkenner. It extends about 6J miles along the
Forth, and is about 3J miles broad. Excepting two
small hills, the whole surface is a plain. A small
stream which rises near the centre of St Ninians
parish, flows eastward with a meandering course
through this parish, and discharges itself into the
Forth at Higgin's Nook. Stream-tides flow above a
mile up Tiiis rivulet, which is liable to sudden and
extensive floods. On the western side of the parish
were formerly two extensive mosses, — one of nearly
500 acres, called the Moss of Dunmore; and the
other, to the south of it, called the Moss of Letham.
These — which might be remains of the great Cale
donian forest — have almost disappeared before the
progress of cultivation ; and on the side of the frith
also a considerable quantity of rich land has been
reclaimed from the sea. The hills of Dunmore and
Airth are very beautiful wooded eminences, towards
the centre of the parish, both commanding a fine
view of the frith. Coal was once extensively
wrought ; and sandstone is plentiful in the two
hills. There are three small harbours on the coast,
— Airth, Dunmore, and Newmiln; and two femes
across the frith, — one at Kersie, where the frith is
about half-a-mile in breadth, and the other at Hig-
gin's Nook, where the breadth is nearly a mile.
All the low grounds of the parish seem to have, at a
comparatively recent period, lain below the frith;
for they all contain strata of modem shells at no
great depth; and at the forming of the present road
from Airth to Stirling in 1817, the skeleton of a
whale was found at a spot upwards of a quarter of
a mile from the present beach. The mansions are
Airth castle, Dunmore House, Higgin's Nook, and
Powfoulis. Airth castle takes its name from an old
tower adjacent to it which is said to have been the
scene of an exploit of Sir William Wallace against
the English. Dunmore House is an elegant, Gothic,
castellated structure, the seat of the Earl of Dun-
more, amid a beautifully wooded park. The village
of Airth stands near the coast, about 5 miles north
of Falkirk. It has a savings' bank, a circulating
library, two friendly societies, and more than enough
of alehouses; and an annual fair is held on the last
Tuesday of July, chiefly for hiring shearers. Popu-
lation of the village in 1851, 583. There is another
village, — the village of Dunmore. Population of the
parish in 1831, 1,825; in 1861, 1,194. Houses, 221.
Assessed property in 1864, £10,367.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Stirling, and synod of Perth and Stirling.
Patron, Graham of Airth. Stipend, £281 12s.;
glebe, £27. Unappropriated teinds, £1,489 3s. 2d.
Schoolmaster's salary, £55, with £40 fees. The
parish church is a handsome structure built in 1 820,
and has 800 sittings. There is aFree church preach-
ing station ; the sum raised at which in 1865 was
£62 3s. lid. There is also an United Presbyterian
chm'ch, with an attendance of from 130 to 140.
There are two private schools. An earldom of Airth
was grafted in 1683 on the earldom of Menteith,
held by the noble family of Graham ; but it became
dormant at the death of the second Earl in 1 694.
AIRTHREY, an estate among the skirts of the
Oehill hills, about 2 miles north of Stirling. It be-
longs to Lord Abercromby, and is graced by his
beautiful residence of Airthrie castle. It is remark-
able for the picturesqueness of its scenery, for the
richness and variety of its minerals and mines, and
most of all in recent years for the celebrity of its
mineral wells. These wells are four in number, but
yield only two waters, called the weak water and
the strong water, for the use of invalids. Accord-
ing to the analyses of Dr. Thomson, one pint of the
weak water contains 37-45 grains of common salt,
34-32 of muriate of lime, and 1'19 of sulphate of
lime; and one pint of the strong water contains
47-354 grains of common salt, 38-461 of muriate of
lime, 4-715 of sulphate of lime, and 0-45 of muriate
ALBANY.
32
ALEXANDKIA.
of magnesia. The waters, as a saline aperient, far
excel those of Dunblane and Pitcaithley; and for
general medicinal effect against various chronic
diseases, they have begun to compete in fame with
those of the most celebrated spas in Britain. But,
no doubt, much of the benefit ascribed to them is
really derived from the salubriousness of the climate,
and the influences of scenery, and the effects of re-
pose and exercise. Visitors are accommodated with
lodgings at the neighbouring village of the Bridge
of Allan. See Allan (Bridge of). A very neat
bath-house, in the cottage style, with hot, cold, and
shower baths, was erected a few years ago by Lord
Abercrombv.
AITHSTING. See Sandsting.
AIT-SUIDHE-THU1N. See Portree.
AITHSVOE. See Dunrossnbss.
AKERMOOR. See Yarrow.
ALATERVA. See Watling Street.
ALBANY, Albion, or Albinn, the ancient Gaelic
name of Scotland, and, until Caesar's time, the original
appellation of the whole island. The Scottish Celts
denominate themselves Gael Albinn or Albinnich, in
distinction from those of Ireland, whom they call
Gael Eirinnich; and the Irish themselves call the
Scottish Gaels Albannaich; while their writers, so
late as the 12th century, call the country of the
Scottish Gael Alban. With respect to the etymo-
logy of the name Albinn or Albion, it is to be ob-
served, in the first place, that it is compounded of
two syllables, the last of which, inn, signifies in
Celtic a large island. Thus far the etymology is
clear, but the meaning of the adjective part, alb, is
not so apparent. Dr. John Macpherson thinks it
folly to search for a Hebrew or Phoenician etymon
of Albion, and he considers the prefix alb as denot-
ing a high country, the word being, in his opinion,
synonymous with the Celtic vocable alp or alba,
which signifies high. " Of the Alpes Grajas, Alpes
Paminse or Penninae, and the Alpes Bastarnieae,
every man of letters has read. In the ancient lan-
guage of Scotland, alp signifies invariably an emi-
nence. The Albani, near the Caspian sea, the Al-
bani of Macedon, the Albani of Italy, and the Al-
banich of Britain, had all the same right to a name
founded on the same characteristical reason, the
height or roughness of their respective countries.
The same thing may be said of the Gaulish Albici,
near Massilia." Deriving alb from the Latin word
albus, the appellation of Albion would denote an
island distinguished by some peculiarity either in
the whiteness of its appearance or in the produc-
tions of its soil, and hence Pliny derives the etymon
of Albion from its white rocks washed by the sea,
or from the abundance of white roses which the
island produced. His words are, " Albion, insula
sic dicta ab albis rupibus, quas mare alluit, vel ob
rosas albas quibufi abundat." But although the
whitish appearance of the English cliffs, as seen
from the channel and the opposite coast of Gaul,
certainly appears to support the supposition of Pliny,
yet it is evidently contrary to philological analogy
to seek for the etymon of Albion in the Latin.
Amongst the various opinions given on this subject
that of Dr. Macpherson seems to be the most ra-
tional. The term Albany or Alban became ulti-
mately the peculiar appellation of an extensive
Highland district, comprehending Breadalbane,
Athole, part of Lochaber, Appin, and Glenorchy.
The title Duke of Albany was first created for a
younger son of Robert II. It became extinct in his
son Murdoch, who was beheaded by James I. James
II. renewed it for his second son Alexander ;_ in
whose son it again became extinct. Since the Union
it has always been borne by the King's second son.
ALDAEDER. See Knockando.
ALDCAMBUS. See Cockburnspath.
ALDCATHIE. See Dalmeny.
ALDCLUYD. See Dumbarton.
ALDERNAN. See Dumbartonshire.
ALDERNY. See Boharm.
ALDGIRTH. See Auldgtrth.
ALDHAM. See Whitekikk.
ALDHOUSE, a small village, about the centre o(
the parish of East Kilbride, Lanarkshire.
ALDIE, an ancient barony in the parish of Fos-
saway, Perthshire, originally belonging to the Earls
of Tullibardine, but which came by marriage into
the family of Mercer of Meiklour, and is now the
property of Baroness Keith of Aldie. The hamlet
of Aldie is about two miles south by east of the
Crook of Devon. Aldie Castle, once the family- seat
of the Mercers, is now in ruins.
ALDIVALLOCH. See Mortlach.
ALE (The), a small stream of Berwickshire. It
rises in the north-east part of the parish of Colding
ham, and flows about 8 miles south-eastward to a
confluence with the Eye, at a point about 1J mile
above Eyemouth. Some parts of its valley are deep
and picturesque; and the terminating part is very
romantic, and has a remarkable elevation called the
Kip-rock.
ALE (The), a small river of Selkirkshire and
Roxburghshire. It issues from several sources on
the western heights of the parish of Roberton, flows
eastward through that parish and through Alemoor
loch, and runs first north-eastward and then eastward
across the western district of Roxburghshire, drain-
ing the parishes of Ashkirk and Lilliesleaf and part
of the parishes of Bowden and Ancrum, and glides
into the Teviot a short distance below the town of
Ancrum. It has a run altogether of about 20 miles,
exclusive of its smaller windings ; and it passes
through much variety of scenery, from bleakly pas-
toral to lusciously luxuriant, yet in most places is,
in some style or other, pleasing or picturesque. Its
waters are of a darkish colour, and abound in trout.
It was anciently called the Aine and the Alna.
See Ancrum.
ALEMOOR LOCH, a lake in the part of the
parish of Roberton which lies in Selkirkshire. It
has a circular outline, measures about two miles
in circumference, and is of considerable depth. The
scenery around it is pleasant in summer, but rather
tame. This lake, Leyden informs us, is regarded
with superstitious horror by the common people, as
being the residence of the water-cow, an imaginary
amphibious monster. A tradition also prevails in
the district that an infant was once seized, while
disporting on the ' willowy shore ' of this loch, by
an erne, a species of eagle, which, on being pursued,
dropped its' hapless prey ' into the waters. Leyden
has introduced this incident with thrilling effect in
his ' Scenes of Infancy,' in the lines commencing
" Sad is the wail that floats o'er Alemoor's lake,
And nightly bids her gulfs unbottomed quake,
While moonbeams, sailing: o'er the waters blue,
Reveal the frequent tinge of blood-red hue."
ALEXANDRIA, a post-town in the parish of
Bonhill, Dumbartonshire. It stands on the right
bank of the Leven, contiguous to the village of
Bonhill, about 1| miles south of Balloch and 3J
miles north of Dumbarton. It has a station on the
Dumbartonshire railway, and is traversed by the
main road of the vale of Leven. The scenery around
it is exquisite; and the appearance of its own streets
and buildings is modem and pleasing. It has
printworks and bleaehfields which so long ago as in
1840 employed 438 persons; and it shares largely
in the general industry which, in recent times, has
ALFOED.
33
ALLAN.
kept up so much stir and prosperity along all the
once rural hanks of the Leven. It has a branch
office of the Clydesdale Bank, a chapel of ease, a
Free church, ail United Presbyterian church, and
an Independent meeting-house. Population in
1841, 3,039; in 1801, 4,2*2. Houses 339. See
Bo.nhill.
ALFOKD, a district in the south-west of Aber-
deenshire, comprehending the parishes of Alford,
Auchindoir, Clatt, Glenbueket, Keig, Kildrmnmy,
Kinnethmont, Loehell-cushnie, Ehynie and Essie,
Strathdon, Tullynessle with Forbes, Tough, Towic,
and part of Cabrach, which is mostly in the shire of
Banff. This district is nearly surrounded on every
side by hills and mountains, and there is no entrance
to the greater part of it but by ascending consider-
able heights to gain the passes between them. The
climate is good. Its distance from the ocean occa-
sions more intense frosts and longer lying snows;
hut, on the other hand, the surrounding mountains
protect and cover the country from the north-east
fogs and winds which are so unfavourable to vege-
tation in less-sheltered situations and places upon
the coast. Besides several inferior streams, Alford
is watered by the Don, which, rushing through a
narrow gullet amongst the mountains on the west,
winds its course, in a direction from west to east,
through the whole length of the district, and flows
out through a narrow valley encompassed on the
north by Bennochie, which here rises into high and
magnificent alpine tops. See Bexxochie. A rail-
way for this district, called the Alford Valley Rail-
way, was opened in March 1859; deflects from the
Great North of Scotland Railway at its station of
Kintore; and proceeds about 16J miles, by Fetter-
near, Kemnay, Mqnymusk, Paradise, Castle-Forbes,
and Haughton, to the village of Alford. Popula-
tion in 1831, 11,923; in 1861,13,241. Houses 2,470.
ALFOED, a parish, containing a post-office vil-
lage of its own name, in the south-west of the dis-
trict of Alford, Aberdeenshire. It is bounded by-
the parishes of Tullynessle, Keig, Tough, Cuslmie,
and Auchindoir and Keara. Its greatest length,
from east to west, is 7 miles; and its greatest
breadth is 3 miles. Less than one-half of the sur-
face is arable; and the rest is variously moss, moor-
land, hill-pasture, and waste upland. The soil on
the banks of the Don is generally a good light loam.
In the eastern part of the palish, the soil is in some
places a deep loam ; in others, a strong clay ; and
sometimes a mixture of both. In this quarter, and
the adjoining parish of Tough, there was formerly a
large marsh, now called the Strath of Tough or Kin-
craigie, which was partially drained in the end of
the 17th century. Two roads cross each other in
this parish, a little to the north-east of the kirk-
town: viz., the great northern road, which leads
from Fettercaim , over the cairn of Month, to Huntly ;
and the road which goes from Aberdeen to Corgarff,
a military station on the sources of Don. On the
former of these lines is the bridue of Alford over the
Don, a little below its junction with the Lochel,
built in 1811. It is of 3 arches, having a water-
way of 128 feet, and cost £2,000. It is 14 miles
distant from the bridge of Potarch over the Dee, on
the same line of road. There are two old fortalices
in this parish; one of them, Astoune, seems to have
been a place of some strength. The river Don here
abounds with trout, and after high floods with sal-
mon. Besides the Don, there are several inferior
streams well stocked with trout; and upon one of
them, the Loehel, a bridge was built by Mr. Melvine,
then clergyman of the parish, in the end of the 17th
century. The mansions are Haughton-House and
Breda. There are three meal-mills. The village
of Alford is very small and very scattered, ami iB
distant 27 miles "from Aberdeen. It contains offices
of four insurance companies, and an office ol the
Aberdeen Town and County Bank. It also con-
tains a savings' bank and a parochial library, and
is the seat of the Vale of Alford agricultural asso-
ciation. Fairs, chiefly for the sale of horses and
cattle, are held on the first Monday of January,
February, March, April, May, October, NovemBer,
and December, on the Tuesday in June before Tri-
nity Muir, and on the Friday after the second Thurs-
day of September old style. Population of the par-
ish in 1831, 894; in 1861, 1,264. Houses, 217.
Assessed property in 1860, £5,752.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in. the
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£206 17s. 4d., with manse and glebe. Schoolmas-
ter's salary now is £40, with about £10 fees. The.
parish church was built in 1804, and enlarged in
1826, and has 500 sittings. There is a female
school. In this parish, the Marquis of Montrose,
upon the 2d July 1645, signally defeated Baillie,
one of the generals of the Covenant; but his cause
sustained an irreparable loss in the death of Lord
Gordon, eldest son of the Marquis of Huntly, who
fell by a random shot, in the pursuit, near a large
stone which is still pointed out by the country peo-
ple. About 100 years ago some men, while casting
peats, dug up the body of a man on horseback and
in complete armour, "who had probably perished
either in the pursuit or flight from this engagement.
Upon the top of a hill in this parish there is an im-
mense cairn. 120 yards in circumference, and of a
proportionable height. Of this monument there is
no veiy distinct tradition, though some legends re-
present it as marking the burial-place of a brother
of one of the kings of Scotland. Nor can any more
certain account be given of a large cairn which
stood at a place called Caimballoch.
ALINE (Loch), a beautiful little arm of the sound
of Mull, connected with the sound by a very nar-
row channel, and penetrating about 2 miles into the
most interesting district of Morven. The sides are
steep and woody, and towards the head assume a
nigged and picturesque appearance. Two streams
flow into it at the head, at opposite angles ; the one
descends from Loch-na-Cuim, through Loch Temate,
and falls into the north-east corner of the loch; the
other and larger stream, flows through Glen-Dow,
skirting the western base of Ben-Mean, receives at
Claggan a tributary from Glen-Gell, on the eastern
side of Ben-Mean, and discharges itself into Loch
Aline on the north-west point. Loch Arienas flows
into the latter stream, by a small rivulet. At the
head of Loch Aline is a fine old square fortalice,
picturesquely situated on a bold rock overhanging
the loch.
ALLAN (The), a tributary of the Teviot, rising
on the southern skirts of Cavers parish, and flowing
in a north-east direction, through a lovely pastoral
vale, till its junction with the Teviot at Allanmouth
peel, a mile above Branxhohn.
ALLAN (The), a river of Perthshire and Stirling-
shire, famed for its picturesque scenery, and giving
name to the fertile district of Strathallan. Its head-
springs descend in a south-eastern direction from
the Braes of Ogilvie. The united stream first runs
west, and then turns south-west, and enters the
parish of Dunblane. At Stockbridge it bends sud-
denly towards the south-east, till it reaches Dun
blane, whence it assumes a direction nearly south,
till its junction with the Forth, about 2 miles above
Stirling. Its entire course is about 18 miles. It is
a fine trouting-stream, and is a familiar name to
the lovers of Scottish song. It is the opinion of
n
ALLAN.
34
ALLOA.
Chalmers, that the Alauna of Ptolemy, and of Rich-
ard, was situated on the Allan, ahout a mile ahove
its confluence with the Forth. See Steathallan.
ALLAN BANK. See Edbon.
ALLAN (Bkidge of), a heautiful small town and
charming watering place, in the parishes of Logie and
Lecropt, on the northern border of Stirlingshire.- It
stands on the river Allan, on the road from Stirling
to Crieff, and has a station on the Scottish Central
Railway, 3 miles north of Stirling, and 2 miles south
of Dunblane. It is a favourite summer retreat of
invalids, both on account of the salubrity of its
climate, the beauty of the country around it, and
the near proximity of the mineral wells of Airthrey;
and, for a number of years prior to 1866, it had an-
nually about 40,000 visitors. It commences at
Coneyhill villa, not far from Lord Abercromby's
Lodge; descends westward, over a slope, to the
quarter of Sunnylaw ; and consists partly of streets
or rows of well-built bouses, with many handsome
shops, but chiefly of neat or elegant separate villas.
It has a head post-office, an office of the Union
Bank, a public reading-room, a well-kept bowling-
green, three large hotels, three smaller hotels, and
four places of worship. Two of the hotels keep
each a public library and a table d'hote ; and one
of them has pleasure-grounds with jets d'eau. The
Established church is a handsome Gothic edifice of
1859, with 350 sittings. The Free church is an
edifice of 1853, in the middle pointed style ; has a
spire 108 feet high ; and contains 800 sittings. The
United Presbyterian church is a neat structure of
1846. with a public clock, and contains 400 sittings.
The Episcopalian church was built in 1857 ; is in the
early decorated style ; consists of nave and chan-
cel, with a belfry; and contains 250 sittings. Om-
nibuses run several times a-day, during summer,
to Stirling. Airthrey Castle, Westerton House,
Kippenross, and Keir, are in the vicinity ; and very
numerous spots of antiquarian interest, and places
of picturesque and romantic scenery, are within
easy access. Pop. in 1861, 1,803. Houses, 686.
ALLAN (Poet of), a landing-place in the parish
of Sorbie, Wigtonshire.
ALLANDER, a small river of Dumbartonshire
and Stirlingshire. It rises among the Kilpatrick
hills about 3 miles north of West Kilpatrick, and
runs ahout 10 or 11 miles, partly eastward, but
chiefly south-south-eastward, to the Kelvin, at a
point about 2J miles above Garscube. It is fed in
summer by a reservoir among the hills; and it
brings down thence supplies of water in droughty
weather for the mills on the Kelvin; and always
drives extensive machinery at places on its own
course within the parish of East Kilpatrick.
ALLANTON, a village in the parish of Edrom,
Berwickshire, situated at the point of confluence of
the Blackadder and Whiteadder, on the road from
Ladykirk to Chirnside, 1£ mile south of Chirnside.
A"new bridge was erected a few years ago over the
Whiteadder here, and has supplied an important
want. There is a Free church in the village, whose
yearly receipts in 1865 amounted to £241 Is. lid.
There is a mineral well in the vicinity. Population
of the village, 258.
ALLANTON, an estate in the parish of Cambus-
nethan, Lanarkshire. The lands of Allanton
anciently belonged to the abbey of Arbroath, and
have for centuries been in the possession of the
Darnley Stewarts. The mansion is an elegant pile;
and the estate is rich in useful ores.
ALLANTON BURN. See Keih.
ALLARDYCE. See Arbuthbot.
ALLEN (The), a small stream in Roxburghshire.
It rises on the north-western boundary of the parish
of Melrose, near Allenshaws: flows southward,
skirting the western base of Colmslie hill, and pass-
ing the ruins of Hillslap, Colmslie, and Langshaw ;
and falls into the Tweed, about a quarter of a mile
above the bridge near Lord Somerville's hunting-
seat called the Pavilion, after traversing a romantic
ravine called the Fairy dean, or the Nameless dean.
The vale of the Allen is the prototype of the ima-
ginary Glendearg in ' The Monastery ;' although, as
Sir Walter himself informs us, the resemblance of
the real and fanciful scene " is far from being mi-
nute, nor did the author aim at identifying them."
ALLERMUIR, one of the Pentland hills, in the
parishes of Colinton and Lasswade, Edinburghshire.
It is one of the most conspicuous summits of the
range, and has an altitude of 1,625 feet above the
level of the sea.
ALLNESS. See Ainess.
ALLOA, a parish, containing a town of the same
name, also the villages of Cambus, Collyland, Tulli-
body, and Holton Square, and comprising the two
ancient parishes of Alloa and Tullibody, in Clack-
mannanshire. It is bounded on the north and west
by the river Devon; on the south by the river
Forth ; and on the east by the parishes of Tilli-
coultry and Clackmannan. Its average length from
east to west is about 4 miles ; hut its extent of bank
along the winding Forth, here slowly beginning to
expand into frith, is about 5J miles ; and its breadth
from north to south is about 2 miles. " The low
grounds lying on the banks of the Forth," says the
excellent description of the parish in the New Sta-
tistical Account, " are of a fine fertile carse soil.
The subsoil of part of it is a strong clay, fit for
making bricks and tiles. The banks that arise
from the carse, are mostly composed of gravel, with
a fine loam near the surface. On the higher
grounds, towards the north, the soil is thin, on a
cold till bottom ; but by draining of late years, it
has been greatly improved. This parish contains
no mountains or high hills ; but its finely diversified
surface, its little hills and fertile valleys, form a
richly varied landscape. From any of the emi-
nences near the town, sceneiy is presented to the
eye, almost unrivalled for picturesque beauty, if not
for magnificence. To the eastward, embosomed in
trees, is seen the ancient Tower of Alloa, from the
summit of which, although situated on flat ground,
part of nine counties can be discerned. About a
furlong north-east of the Tower, on a gentle ele-
vation, is the new and elegant mansion of the Earl
of Mar and Kellie. Beyond Alloa Wood, Clack-
mannan Tower crowns the summit of the next ris-
ing ground ; while on either side of the expanding
firth, innumerable beauties arrest the attention in
the rich vale below. On turning to the. north and
west, a panorama of no ordinary splendour meets
the eye, — on one side, the lofty Ochils, bounding
the view, and covered with verdure to their sum-
mits,— on the other, the numerous windings of the
river, Stirling with its finely elevated castle, and
beyond, in the blue distance, the gigantic Benledi
and Benlomond, with others of our Scottish alps."
The highest ground in the parish is Gartmom hill
in the north-east, which has an altitude of 390 feet
above the level of the Forth. Alloa Park mansion,
the seat of the Earl of Mar and Kellie, is an elegant
Grecian structure, surmounting a gentle eminence,
and looking to the south, about a furlong east of the
ancient town. The mansion of Tullibody, a seat of
Lord Abercromby, is an old house near the Forth.
In front of it are two pleasant low islands ; behind
it, on the north, is a wooded bank ; and on either
side, almost at equal distances from the house, are
two prominences, jutting out into the carse, which
ALLOA.
35
ALLOA.
protect and shelter the lower grounds. Within a
mile to the west, the Devon discharges itself into
the Forth ; and vessels of tolerable burden can load
and unload at a pier built at the mouth of that
river; while sloops and large boats loaded with
grain come up near to the village of Cambus. In
the north-east extremity of the parish is Shaw Park,
formerly the seat of Lord Cathcart, now of Lord
Mansfield. From the drawing-room windows, there
is in view a tine reach of the river, with a mag-
nificent far-away prospect, even to the hill of Tinto,
in Clvdesdale. Upon the eastern extremity of the
parish, there is a large artificial piece of water,
made about the beginning of the 17th century for
the use of the Alloa coal-works. It is called Gart-
morn dam; and when full, it covers 160 English
acres of ground. There are two collieries in the
barony of Alloa: the oldest of them, called the Alloa
pits, is about li mile distant from the shore; the
other is the Coalyland, and is about double that dis-
tance. There are various seams in each colliery ;
some of 3, 4, 5, and 9 feet in thickness. The pits
are free of all noxious damps, and have in general a
good roof and pavement, although there is iron
stone over some of the seams. In 1768, a waggon-
way was made to the Alloa pits, which proved to
be so great an advantage that it induced the pro-
prietor to extend it to the Coalyland, in 1771 ; and
this has been substituted, in the course of improve-
ment, b}^ the best kind of cast-iron railway. The
quantity of coal now annually raised in the parish
is from "76,000 to 80,000 tons.
The ancient families of Alloa and Tullibody have
all disappeared ; and the oldest and mightiest of the
present ones, though of ancient descent in connec-
tion with other districts, are comparatively modem
here. The branch of the Abercrombies which set-
tled at Tullibody towards the end of the 16th
century, were descended from the family of Birken-
boig in Banffshire. The Cathcart family only made
Shaw Park the seat of their residence, on parting
with the estate of Auchincruive in Ayrshire, which
they had possessed for ages. Their possessions in Al-
loa, and the adjoining parishes, descended to the late
Lord Cathcart from his grandmother Lady Shaw ;
whose husband had purchased them, in the begin-
ning of the 18th century, at a judicial sale, from the
Braces of Clackmannan. Neither can even the
Erskines be said to be originally of this parish, al-
though they got the lands which they now possess
here, in the reign of King Kobert Bruce. They
were originally settled in Renfrewshire. They suc-
ceeded by a female, in 1457, to the earldom of Mar;
but it was not until the year 1561 that they got
possession of it. It was at that time declared in
parliament, that the earldom of Mar belonged to
John, Lord Erskine, who, in the year 1571, was
elected regent of Scotland, on the death of the Earl
of Lennox. The title was forfeited by John, the
11th earl, taking part in the rebellion of 1715; hut
was restored in 1824, in the person of John Franois,
Earl of Mar. — The old parish of Alloa was anciently
a chapelry to the parish of Tullibody ; and the lat-
ter was a vicarage of the abbey of Cambuskenneth.
" There are the remains of an old church in Tulli-
body," says the Old Statistical Account, " the lands
of which, with the inches and fishings, are narrated
in a charter by David I., who founded the abbey of
Cambuskenneth, in the year 1147 ; and are made
over to that abbacy, together with the church of
Tullibody, and its chapel of Alloa. There are no
records of the union of these two churches of Alloa
and Tullibody. It seems probable, that it was
about the beginning of the Reformation. It appears
from John Knox, that, in the year 1559, when
Monsieur d'OyJel commanded the French troops on
the coast of Fife, they were alarmed with the ar-
rival of the English fleet, and thought of nothing
but a hasty retreat. It was in the month of Jan-
uary, and at the breaking up of a great storm.
William Kirkcaldy of Grange, attentive to the cir-
cumstances in which the French were caught, took
advantage of their situation, marched with great
expedition towards Stirling, and cut the bridge of
Tullibody, which is over the Devon, to prevent their
retreat. The French, finding no other means of
escape, took the roof off the church, and laid it along
the bridge where it was cut, and got safe to Stirling.
It is generally believed that this church remained
in the same dismantled state till some years ago,
that George Abercromby, Esq. of Tullibody, cover-
ed it with a new roof, and erected within ft a tomb
for his family. There is still a large burying.
ground around this church ; and on the north side
of it, where there had been formerly an entiy, there
is a stone coffin, with a niohe for the head, and two
for the arms, covered with a thick hollowed lid, like
a tureen. The lid is a good deal broken; but a
curious tradition is preserved of the coffin, viz. :
that a certain young lady of the neighbourhood had
declared her affection for the minister, who, either
from his station, or want of inclination, made no re-
turn ; that the lady sickened and died, but gave
orders not to bury her in the ground, but to put her
body in the stone coffin, and place it at the entry to
the church. Thus was the poor vicar punished ;
and the stone retains the name of the Maiden stone."
Population of the modem parish of Alloa in 1831,
6.377; in 1861,8,867. Houses, 1,110. Assessed
property in 1860, £26,927.
This parish is in the presbytery of Stirling, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £299 3s. 2d.; glebe, £63. Unappropriated
teinds, £101 9s. 7d. Schoolmaster's salary now is
£70, with £16 in lieu of a house and garden, £18
10s. fees, and about £20 other emoluments. The
parish church was built in 1819, at the cost of
£8,000, and has 1,561 sittings. There are two Free
churches in the town of Alloa, the East and the
West, and another Free church at Tullibody. The
yearly sum raised in 1865 in connexion with the
East Free church was £236 9s. 3d.; in connexion
witli the West Free church, £298 3s. 7id.; in con-
nexion with the Tullibody Free church, £170 19s.
9fd. There are two United Presbyterian churches;
the one called the West U. P. church, an old plain
building, with an attendance of from 300 to 600;
and the other, called the First U. P. church, a new
neat building, with an attendance of above 700.
The other places of worship are an Independent
chapel, built in 1839, an Episcopalian chapel built
in 1840, a meeting-place of Baptists, and a meeting-
place of Methodists. There are eight private
schools.
ALLOA, a burgh of barony, and post, market,
and sea-port town, in the parish of Alloa, Clack-
mannanshire. It is distant 7 miles from Stirling, 7
from Dollar, 20 from Kinross, and 37 from Perth,
The name has been variously written. In the
charter granted by King Robert in 1315, to Thomas
de Erskyne, it is spelled Alway; and, in some sub-
sequent ones, Aulway, Auleway, and Alloway,
Camden, in his ' Britannia,' seems to think it the
Alauna of the Romans. He says, " Ptolemy places
Alauna somewhere about Stirling ; and it was either
upon Alon [Allan] a little river, that runs here into
the Forth, or at Alway, a seat of the Erskines."
The windings of the Forth between Stirling and
Alloa are very remarkable. The distance, from the
quay of Alloa to the quay of Stirling, measured in
ALLOA.
36
ALLOA.
the centre of the river, is 17 miles, and to the bridge
of Stirling 19A miles; whereas the distance, by
land, from Alloa to the bridge of Stirling, does not
exceed 7 miles, though the turnings in the road are
numerous.
The situation of the town is pleasant. Some
strata of rock run a considerable way between the
carse and the high grounds, and break oft" about the
ferry, a little above the harbour. On part of this
rock is built the tower and the ancient part of the
town. The tower marks the ancient residence of
the family of Mar. It was built prior to the year
1315; but the entire building, with the exception of
the square tower still standing, was accidentally
burnt to the ground in the year 1800. The highest
turret is 89 feet; and the thickness of the walls is
1 1 feet. The gardens were laid out by John, Earl of
Mar, in 1706, in the old French taste of long ave-
nues and dipt pledges, with statues and ornaments.
The town formerly almost surrounded the tower;
and in rude ages they afforded mutual benefits to
each other. Most of the streets are narrow and
irregular. There is one, however, on a regular plan,
in a line parallel to the gardens of the tower, called
John's-street, which is between 76 and 80 feet
broad. A row of lime-trees, on each side, affords
an agreeable shade in summer, and a comfortable
shelter in winter. The town has of late years ex-
tended rapidly to the west, and it is adorned in that
quarter by some elegant villas. The buildings of
the town, as a whole, have a pleasant appearance.
The parish church isalike conspicuous and elegant,
a structure in a pointed style, 124 feet by 78, with
a tower and spire soaring to the height of 207 feet.
The Episcopalian chapel is a neat Gothic edifice.
The Academy is a small but handsome Grecian
building. The chief inns are the Royal Oak Hotel,
the Crown Inn, and the Ship Inn.
Directly abreast of the town, and looking up to a
pleasant view of it, is the harbour. The water here
rises at neap tides from 14 to 16 feet, and at spring-
tides from 22 to 24; yet it has been ascertained that
the bottom of Alloa, harbour is nearly on a level
with the top of the pier of Leith. There is a double
tide at each flowing and ebbing. The quay is built
of rough hewn stone, and forms a pow, or small
creek, where the rivulet that runs through the
north-east end of the town falls into the river. A
little above the harbour there is a dry dock. Above
the dry dock there is a ferry, sometimes called the
Craigward, and sometimes the lung's ferry. The
breadth of the river here, at high tide, is above half-
a-mile; and there are good piers carried down to
low- water mark on each side, and two large steamers
are employed; but the rapidity of the tide some-
times renders the passage tedious. The scheme of
building a bridge across the Forth here has often
been talked of, and has been ascertained to be quite
practicable; and some little time ago, measures
were taken to form a company, -with a capital of
£100,000, to carry it into effect." The water here at
ebb-tide is almost quite fresh, and at full-tide is
nearly half fresh and half salt. The depth of the
river for a considerable distance below the harbour
has, in recent years, been injuriously lessened by
the throwing of ballast out of vessels, by the floating
of masses of matter from mosses, and by the lodg-
ment which these substances give to the natural
silt; insomuch that vessels formerly frequented
Alloa of larger burden than any which can now fre-
quent it. This port was for a long time an indepen-
dent and head one, with admiralty jurisdiction on
the north side of the Forth from Stirling-bridge to
Petticur, and on the south side from Stirling-bridge
to Iliggin's Nook ; and it lost this dignity, and was
suffering inconvenience and loss for want of it, but
has recently regained it. The port was long ago an
important one, and at the end of last century had
115 vessels of aggregately 7,241 tons; but though
still ranking as the seventh in Scotland, it has not
at all prospered either in the ratio of its own advan-
tages or in the proportion of some other Scottish
ports. The harbour, all things considered, is the
best in the Forth above Granton; and it commands
an immense sphere of trade, in the way of both ex-
port and import. Yet the aggregate tonnage of its
shipping, including sub-ports, at the end of 1860,
was only 13,671 tons; and the dock and quay walls
are not in good condition. The harbour revenue is
derived from very light dues on goods and shipping ;
and in ]846, it amounted to £725 at Alloa, and £50
at Cambus; but is not levied at Clackmannan Pow,
Kennetpans, and Fallin. The arrivals and depar-
tures at Alloa, in 1846, amounted to 439, of aggre-
gately 31,940 tons, and paying customs duty £1,859 ;
and 78 of the whole were to or from the colonies, or
foreign. The arrivals and departures, in the same
year, at Clackmannan Pow, Cambus, Kennetpans,
and Fallin, were respectively 235, 28, 18, and 7.
The vessels belonging to theport in 1864 were 49,
of 10,512 tons; the coasting trade of 1860 comprised
a tonnage of 2,302 inward, and of 13,754 outward;
and the entire trade of 1863 comprised a tonnage of
11,385 inward in British vessels, 13,979 inward in
foreign vessels, 16,546 outward in British vessels,
and 25,225 outward in foreign vessels. The imports
consist chiefly of corn, timber, wool, fuller's earth,
and miscellaneous small goods; and the exports
consist chiefly of coals, pig-iron, woollen-manufac-
tures, glass, ale, whisky, leather, and bricks. The
customs in 1S63 amounted to £6.997.
The town and its environs contain many and
various extensive manufactories. Camlet weaving
was long a prominent department of industry, and
employed about 100 looms, but became extinct.
The manufacture of plaiding, tartans, shawls, blan-
kets, druggets, and other similar fabrics, is of some-
what recent origin, yet sprang up so vigorously _ as
soon to give rise to six large factories. The making
of glass is carried on, and long has been so, in works
which occupy a space of about six imperial acres,
westward of "the ferry, and fitted with a pier. Ale,
of great celebrity, not only in Scotland but in dis-
tant lands, is made, to the amount of about 80,000
barrels a-year, in eight breweries. Whisky, in
vast quantity, is produced at Carsebridge and Cam-
bus. Tobacco and snuff were once very exten-
sively manufactured; and are still a considerable
object. The other chief articles of production or
labour are leather, bricks, stoneware, machinery,
and flour. Weekly markets are held on Wednes-
day and Saturday; but only that on Saturday is
well attended. Fairs are held on the second Wed-
nesday of February, May, August, and November;
but they are ill-attended and of very trifling conse-
quence. The town has a stamp-office, an excise-
office, a custom-house, offices of the Commercial
Bank, the Union Bank, the National Bank, the
Clydesdale Bank, and offices of ten insurance com-
panies. Two newspapers are published in it, —
the Alloa Advertiser and the Alloa Journal, both
weekly on Saturday. Abundant communication is
enjoyed up and down the Forth by the Stirling
and Granton steamers, to Tillicoultry by branch
railway, to Stirling, Dunfermline, and places be-
yond, by the Stirling and Dunfermline railway,
and to Edinburgh, Glasgow, and connected places,
by the Alloa junction of the Scottish Central rail-
way. A line of railway was once projected direct
between Alloa and Glasgow, to proceed by way
ALLOWAY.
37
ALMOND.
of Larbert and Denny, to join the Edinburgh and
Glasgow railway in the vicinity of the Cioy sta-
tion; but this gave place to the line which leaves
the Forth opposite Alloa, and joins the .Scottish
Central a short way north of the Larbert station.
Alloa lias an agricultural society, a horticultural
society, a mechanics' institution, a public library, a
Shakspeare club, and several friendly, charitable,
and religious societies.
The town is governed by a baron bailie, appointed
by the Earl of Mar and Kellie. He regulates the
stents and cesses; he has also jurisdiction in debts
not exceeding 40s., but few or no actions of debt
are ever brought before him. The town obtained a
police act in 1803, which was amended and enlarged
in 1822. The town, as such, has no property or re-
venue, and no debts; but it pays county-burdens
and rates corresponding to a valuation of £601 Is.
lOd. Scotch; and, for the privilege of participating
with the royal burghs in foreign trade, £11 lis. ster-
ling as its share of royal burgh cess. Until the
passing of the police act of 1822, it was ill supplied
with water; but this has since been brought from
the river at a considerable expense, and is filtered
through an artificial bed of sand. The streets are
lighted with gas, well-paved, and regularly cleaned.
The town is practically the political capital of Clack-
mannanshire; and a new court-house and public
offices, in the Flemish Gothic style, with a portico
and a tower, at a cost of about £8,000, were com-
pleted in December 1865. The sheriff court is held
on every Wednesday and Friday during session ; and
quarter sessions are held on the first Tuesday of
March, May, and August, and on the last Tuesday
of October. Population of the town of Alloa in
1831.4,417; in 1861, 6,425. Houses, 643.
ALLOWAY, an ancient parish in the district of
Kyle, in Ayrshire. It was united, towards the end of
the 17th century, with the parish of Ayr, from which
it is divided by Glengaw burn. 'Alloway's auld
haunted kirk,' — a little roofless ruin, — long known
only as marking the obscure resting-place of the
rustic dead, is now an object of veneration, and
many an enthusiastic pilgrimage, on account of its
having been, chosen by Burns as the scene of the
grotesque demon revelry, at once ludicrous and hor-
rible, described with such graphic and tremendous
power in bis tale of Tam o! Shanter; for it would
seem that imagination is not restricted in her flight
here by the actual and real. It is situated on the
right bank of the. Doon, a little below the point
where the road from Ayr to Maybole is carried
across that river by the new bridge, and a quarter
of a mile from the cottage on Doon side in which
the peasant-bard was born on the 25th of January
1759. The poet's father was interred here at his
own request; and the bard himself expressed a wish
to be laid in the same grave, which would have been
complied with, had not the citizens of Dumfries
claimed the honour of the guardianship of his ashes.
Betwixt the kirk and the ' Auld brig o' Doon,' by
which a road now disused is earned over ' Doon's
classic stream,' about 100 yards south-east of the
kirk, and on the summit of the right bank, which
here rises boldly from the river, stands a splendid
monument to the poet, designed by Hamilton of
Edinburgh, and consisting of a triangular base, sup-
porting nine Corinthian columns, which are sur-
rounded by a cupola terminating in a gilt tripod.
It is upwards of 60 feet in height, and cost above
£2,000. The whole is enclosed, and ornamented
with shrubbery; and the clever figures of Tam o'
Shanter and Souter Johnny, executed by the inge-
nious self-taught sculptor, Thorn, are placed in a
small building within the enclosure. The moat of
Alloway, situated near the avenue leading to tlio
House of Doonholm, is an ancient artificially-formed
mound, on whose summit the magistrates of Ayr, in
the olden times, often held courts of justice. Mr.
Cathcart of Blairston, one of the lords of session, on
his promotion to the bench, took the title of Lord
Alloway. He, died in 1829, and was interred within
the rains of Alloway kirk.
ALMAG1LL. See Dalton.
ALMOND (The), a river of Lanarkshire, Linlith-
gowshire, and Edinburghshire. It rises in the moor
of Shotts, about a mile south - east of the kirk
of Shotts, near the Cant hills; and for about 14
miles flows eastward, in a line nearly parallel with
the post-road from Glasgow to Edinburgh, by Whit-
burn, which crosses it at Blackburn, and recrosses
it again near to Mid-Calder. From a little beyond
Mid-Calder, it flows in a north-easterly direction,
and forms the boundary betwixt the shires of Lin-
lithgow and Edinburgh, passing Ammondell, Blis-
ton, Kirkliston, Carlourie, and Craigiehall, and fall-
ing into the sea at Cramond, where it forms a small
estuary navigable by boats for a few hundred yards.
Its entire length of' course, irrespective of smaller
winding's, is about 24 or 25 miles. Its bed, over a
great part of its course, is broad and either gravelly
or rocky; and after heavy rains, it often comes down
in great freshets, and largely overflows its banks,
and does muck injury to low fertile lands in its vici-
nity. But, in recent times, it has been extensively
restrained by very strong, high, and expensive em-
bankments. The Union canal is carried across it
near Clifton Hall by a noble aqueduct; and the
Edinburgh and Glasgow railway is carried across it,
lower down, near Kirkliston, by one of the most
magnificent works on any line of railway, an im
mense viaduct of 43 arches, of 50 feet span each,
and varying in height from 60 to 85 feet. See Edin-
burgh and Glasgow Kajlway. Its chief tributa-
ries are Briech Water, on the right bank below
Blackburn, the Broxburn on the left bank above
Kirkliston, and Gogar burn on the right bank below
Kirkliston.
ALMOND (Tue), a river of Perthshire. It rises
in the south-east corner of Killin parish, on the
north side of the range of hills at the head of Glen
Lednock, and flows eastward to Newtown in the
parish of Monzie, where it turns to the south-east,
and skirts the road from Amulree to Buchandy. At
Dallick it again turns eastward, and flows in that
direction to Logie-Almond, beyond which it bends
toward the south-east, and finally discharges itself
into the Tay, about 2£ miles above the town of
Perth, and nearly opposite to Scone. Its entire length
of course, irrespective of smaller windings, is about
20 miles. It is a stream of high and varied pic-
turesqueness, and is overlooked by many scenes and
objects of great interest. See the articles Monzie,
Fowlis Wester, Logie - Almond, Methven, and
Glenaj.mond. The valley for a long way is strictly
a glen; and in that stretch, particularly in the neigh-
bourhood of the bridge of Buchandy, about 10 miles
from Perth, it contains numerous remains of Caledo-
nian and Koman'antiquity. The glen itself is dreary,
desolate, and wild. In one part of it, where lofty
and impending cliff's on either hand make a solemn
and perpetual gloom, in the line of the military road
from Stirling to Inverness, is the Clach-na-Ossian,
or Stone of Ossian, supposed to mark the burial-
place of the gifted son of Fmgal. About 3 miles
from this, in the Corriviarlich or Glen of Thieves, is
a large cave, known by the name of Fian's or Fin-
gal's cave. Selma in Morven, which is said to have
been Fingal's chief residence, is about 60 miles
distant from Glenahnond. Newte, who travelled
ALMONDBANK.
38
ALTCONLACHAN.
through this district in 1791, says: "I have learned
that when Ossian's stone was moved, and the coffin
containing his supposed remains discovered, it was
intended by the officer commanding the party of
soldiers employed on the military road, to let the
bones remain within the stone sepulchre, in the same
position in which they were found, until General
Wade should come and see them, or his mind be
known on the subject. But the people of the country,
for several miles around to the number of three or
four score of men, venerating the memory of the
bard, rose with one consent, and carried away the
bones, with bagpipes playing and other funereal
rites, and deposited them with much solemnity
within a circle of large stones, on the lofty summit
of a rock, sequestered, and of difficult access, where
they might never more be disturbed by mortal feet
or hands, in the wild recesses of the western Glen
Almon. One Christie, who is considered as the ci-
cerone and antiquarian of Glen Almon, and many
other persons yet alive, attest the truth of this fact,
and point out the second sepulchre of the son of
Fingal." Macculloch, ever at war with ' old poetic
feeling,' discredits the whole story of Ossian's sup-
posed connexion with this place. With a better
faith Wordsworth thus expressed himself on this
dim tradition:
" Does then the Bard sleep here indeed ?
Or is it but a groundless creed?
What matters it? — I blame them not
Whose fancy in this lonely spot
Was moved ; and in such way expressed
Their notion of its perfect rest.
A convent, even a hermit's cell.
Would break the silence of this dell:
It is not quiet, is not ease, —
But something; deeper far than these:
The separation that is here
Is of the grave, — and of austere
Yet happy feelings of the dead :
And, therefore, was it rightly said
That Ossian, last of all his race!
Lies buried in this lonely place."
A secluded spot called the Dronach-haugh, on the
banks of this river, and about half-a-mile north-west
of Lynedoch, is said to be the burying-place of Bessie
Bell and Mary Gray, famed in pathetic ballad story.
The road through Glenalmond communicates be-
tween Stirling and Dalnacardoch, by Tay bridge,
passing through Amulree.
ALMONDBANK, a village, with a post-office, in
the parish of Methven, Perthshire. It stands on
the river Almond, 2i miles east of the village of
Methven ; and has a station on the Methven rail-
way. Its inhabitants are chiefly employed in
various extensive factories in the vicinity, — the
nearest of which is a power-loom weaving estab-
lishment. Population of the village, 386.
ALMOND CASTLE. See Muiravonside.
ALNESS, a parish, containing part of the small
post-town of Ainess-Bridge, in the east side of Ross-
shire. It is bounded on the south-east by the Cro-
marty frith, and on other sides by the parishes of
Kiltearn, Kincardine, and Rosskeen. Its greatest
length from north-west to south-east is about 20
miles; and its average breadth is about 5 miles.
The surface along the sea-board of the frith is flat
and cultivated, and the landscape there is beautiful;
but the country inland is mountainous and barren.
The Aultgrande burn, a stream of great magnifi-
cence, [see Aultgrande,] runs on the boundary
with Kiltearn; and Alness Water, a stream of about
14 miles in length of course, runs on the boundary
with Eosakeen ; and both have a south-easterly di-
rection, and empty themselves into the frith. In
the higher part of the parish, surrounded by wild
And uncultivated hills, are two fine fresh water
lochs, Loch Moir and Loch Glass, both of which are
fed by tributaries descending from Rama-Cruinach,
and the former of which discharges itself by tho
Water of Alness, and the other by the Aultgrande.
Navar, the seat of Sir Hector Munro, is a fine build-
ing, 2 miles south-west from the bridge of Alness.
Iron and silver ores have been found in this parish.
Miss Spence, while residing at the manse of Alness,
in the month of July, thus describes the effect of
twilight: " You can imagine nothing half so beau-
tiful as the summer evenings in Scotland. The
dark curtain of night is scarcely spread in this
northern hemisphere, before
—'Jocund day
Stands tiptoe on the misty mountain's top.'
The firmament retains a glow of light, often bril
liantly heightened by the aurora borealis — here
called the merry dancers — which has a grand effect;
and, when the softer shades of evening prevail, and
throw into partial gloom the sleeping landscape, it
is even at midnight, during the months of May,
June, and July, only like our evening twilight,
when every object is indistinctly visible. The
grandeur of the mountains, the pellucid tranquillity
of the rivers, and the deep gloom of the dark fir
woods, altogether form a scene no person who has
not beheld it can picture." Population in 1831,
1,437; in 1861, 1,178. Houses, 224. Assessed
property in 1860, i.'4,756.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dingwall and
synod of Ross. Patron, the Marchioness of Stafford.
Stipend, £230 19s. lid.; glebe, £10. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50, with £20 fees, and some other small
emoluments. The parish church was built in 1780,
has been repeatedly repaired, and contains about
800 sittings. There is a Free church ; attendance,
from 500 to 700; yearly sum raised in 1865, £178
3s. 9d. There are two Society's schools, an Assem-
bly's school, and a private 3chool.
ALNESS-BRIDGE, a village with a post-office
in the parishes of Alness, and Rosskeen, Ross-shire.
The part of it in the former parish is called simply
Alness ; the part in the latter is called more strictly
Alness-Bridge. The village stands on the Water
of Alness, 10 miles north-north-east of Dingwall,
and has a station, of the naine of Alness, on the
Highland railway. Ten annual fairs are held at it;
seven of these were formerly held at Nonikill ; and
one in August is a great horse fair. Population of
the Russkeen part in 1861, 756.
ALSH (Loch.) See Lochalsh.
ALTACHOGLACHAN. See Altconlachan.
ALTAMARLACH. See ALTniAjiLAcn.
ALTAN-NAN-CEALGACH. a small stream on
the western part of the boundary between Ross-
shire and Sutherlandshire. It flows from a long
lake, with low tame banks, called Loch Boarlan.
ALTAVIG, or Altivajg, the southernmost of a
group of flat islets — to which it usually gives name
— on the north-east coast of Skye, between the
point of Aird and Ru-na-Braddan. Martin says
there is a little old chapel on it dedicated to St.
Turos; and that herrings are sometimes so plentiful
around a small rock at the north end of the isle,
that " the fisher- boats are sometimes as it were en-
tangled among the shoals of them ! " See Kilmuib
and Staffin (Loch).
ALTCONLACHAN, or Altachoglachan, a rivu-
let in the parishes of Mortlach and Inveraven,
Banffshire. It runs down a mountainous course to
the Terry, the chief tributary of the Livet. A fa-
mous battle was fought on it in 1594; though by a
caprice of historians the action is more commonly
named from Glenlivet. See the article Gi.enlivet.
ALTDOWRAN.
39
ALVA.
ALTDOWRAN, a romantic glen in the parish of
Leswalt, Wiirtonshire.
ALTGRAD. See Aultgrande.
ALTIMARLACH, a burn in the parish of Wick,
Caithness. It carries oft' the superfluence of two
lakes in the north-west part of the parish, and falls
into the water of Wick, about 3 miles west of the
town. Its banks were the scene of a famous con-
flict, on the 13th of July, 1680, between the Camp-
bells and the Sinclairs. Campbell of Glenorchy,
afterwards Earl of Breadalbane, claimed, in right of
his wife and by royal patent, to be Earl of Caith-
ness, but was "resisted in his claim by Sinclair of
Keiss; and he suddenly marched into Caithness, at
the head of about 700 Argyle Highlanders, to en-
force it. The Sinclairs, to the number of about 400,
mustered to do battle, but were so reckless as to let
the Campbells come over the Ord, and take post on
the Altimarlach, while they themselves sat up all
night at Wick drinking and carousing ; and, in the
morning, all wild with their revelry, they rushed
out to conflict with the Campbells, and were
promptly defeated, and compelled to run ; and, ac-
cording to tradition, so many of them were slain in
the flight that the victors passed the river dry-shod
on their bodies. It was on occasion of this incur-
sion of the Argyleshiremen that the names were
given to the well-known airs, " The Campbells are
coming," and "The Braes of Glenorchy."
ALTIVAIG. See Altavig.
ALTMORE (The), a small stream of Banffshire,
rising betwixt the parishes of Ruthven and Desk-
ford, receiving several small tributaries from Alt-
more ridge in the former parish, flowing southwards
betwixt the parishes of Keith and Grange, and
falling into the Isla, about 1 J mile east of the town
of Keith, after a rapid course of 6 miles.
ALTNACH (The), a small highland stream of
Inverness-shire and Banffshire. It rises on the
north-east side of the Cairngorm mountains, a short
way north of Loch Aven, and flows about 10 miles
north-north-eastward, chiefly on the boundary be-
tween Invemess-shire and Banffshire, but partly
within the latter county, to a confluence with the
river Aven near Tbmantoul.
ALTNAHARROW, an inn in the parish of Farr,
Sutherlandshire. It stands near the head of Loch
Naver, on the road from Bonar-bridge to Tongue',
'-'1 miles from Lairg and 18 from Tongue. Fairs
ate held here on the 4th Wednesday of May and on
the Friday in September before Bonar-bridge.
ALTNARIE (The), a small tributary of the
Fmdhorn, in the parish of Ardclach, Nairnshire.
It is a mountain rivulet, with a southerly course,
and it makes a profound and very romantic water-
fall within a deep, wooded, and sequestered glen.
ALTON, a village in the north-west of the parish
of Loudoun, Ayrshire. The name is a contraction
for Auld-town. Population about 120.
ALTON'S HARBOUR. See Nxgg, Kincardine-
shire.
ALTRIVE. See Yarrow.
ALTYRE, a quondam parish, about 2 or 3 miles
south of Forres, in Morayshire. It belonged to the
parsonage of Dallas, but was annexed, by act of
parliament, in 1661, to the parish of Rafford. The
estate of Altyre, the property of Sir W. Cumming,
Bart., the representative of the ancient Earls of
Badenoch, is still the second in value in the united
parish; and the mansion-house of Altyre, in the
modem Italian style of architecture, is one of its
chief ornaments. The burn of Altyre, one of the
head-streams of the water of Forres, is an impetuous
stream, and often comes down in inundating
freshets. The soil, of the arable parts of the estate
is generally thin, but sharp and productive ; and
the extent of hill and pasturage is very great. The
place where the capital sentences of the baron
court of Altyre were executed in the olden time is
still known by the name of the Gallow-Hill. See
Rafford.
ALVA, — anciently Alvath, or Alveth, — a parish,
containing a post-town of its own name, in Stirling-
shire. It anciently belonged to Clackmannanshire,
but was attached aboutthe beginning of the 17th cen-
tury to Stirlingshire ; and it was restored to Clackman-
nanshire by the Reform Act for political purposes, but
still continues connected with Stirlingshire for judi-
cial purposes. It lies about four miles north of the
nearest parts of the main body of Stirlingshire ; and
is bounded on the north by Perthshire, and on all
other sides by Clackmannanshire. Its length, from
north to south, is between 4 and o miles ; and its
breadth is upwards of 2i miles. The river Devon,
a stream surpassingly picturesque, drains all the in-
terior, either directly or by its tributaries, and
glides along the southern boundary. See Devon
(The). This parish extends over a considerable
portion of the Ochils ; and over part of the valley
— here commonly called 'the hill-foot' — between
these hills and the Devon. The mean breadth,
from the banks of the river to the rise of the Ochils,
is about two-thirds of a mile. That portion of the
Ochils which belongs to this parish, when seen
from the south, at the distance of a mile or twoT
appears to be one continued range, presenting little
variation in height; but the range slopes towards
the south, and is intersected by deep and narrow
glens, through most of which flow streams which
discharge themselves into the Devon, and by these
the foreground of this part of the Ochils is divided
into three separate hills, distinguished by the names
of Wood-hill, Middle- hill, and West-hill of Alva. On
the brow of this last hill is a very high perpendicu-
lar rock, called Craig-Leith, long remarkable as the
residence of that species of hawk which is used in
hunting. The house of Alva stands on an emi-
nence projecting from the base of Wood-hill, near
the east end of the parish. The height of this part
of the hill is about 220 feet above the Devon, which
runs in the valley below; but immediately behind
the house, the hilli'ises to the height of 1,400 feet,
making the whole height 1,620 feet. The range
continues to rise gradually for about 2 miles farther
north, until it reaches, in Ben-Cloch, the highest
point of the Alva range, and the summit of the
Ochils; being, according to Mr. Udney, about 2,420
feet above the level of the Devon. This mountain
is remarkably easy of ascent; and the view from
the top of it is of vast extent, and one of the most
gorgeous in Scotland. In the upper part of Alva
glen, vertical cliffs rise aloft on all sides but one,
and there is a veiy fine cataract; and in other parts,
in that neighbourhood, there were formerly several
deep diggings for silver-ore, and there are still un-
covered pits, 30 or 40 feet in depth, situated within
dark caves, and very perilous to inquisitive un
warned strangers. Cobalt ore and precious pebbles
have also been largely found; and in " the hill-foot,"
coal-mines were worked, and there is now a coal-
mine. The House of Alva is one of the most ex-
quisi te residences in Britain ; and the grounds around
it are so fairily feathered and tufted as to give all
truth to the old rhyme, " Oh, Alva woods are
bonnie ! " Population of the parish in 1831,. 1,300 ;
in 1861, 3,283. Houses, 354. Assessed property
in 1860, £6,862'.
This parish is in the presbytery of Stirling, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, Johnstone of
Alva;, who also is the sole heritor. Stipend, £157
ALVAH
40
ALVIE.
5s. 9d.; glebe, £27. Schoolmaster's salary, £55,
with £28 fees. There are three non -parochial
schools. The parish church was rebuilt in 1815,
and enlarged in 1854. There is a Free church; at-
tendance 120 ; yearly sum raised in 1865, £142 14s.
9d. There is also an United Presbyterian church,
which was opened in 1843, and has an attendance
of about 290.
The Town of Alva stands near the base of the
West-hill, about a mile west of the House of Alva;
has a junction railway 3§ miles long, from Cambus,
opened in 1863; and is washed along the east side by
a small stream. It probably was a trivial hamlet
about the beginning of the 18th century; and it
contained 130 families in the year 1795, and con-
tains now nearly five times that number. It has a
branch office of the Union Bank of Scotland, and is
partly the seat and partly the centre of an exten-
sive and important woollen manufacture. This
manufacture dates back to the origin of the village,
but has varied in its fabrics. Serges were the chief
productions till near the end of last century ; plaid-
ings and blanketings then took their place; tartan
shawls were introduced in 1826, and soon became the
most general article ; and chequered cassimeres were
introduced in 1832, and speedily became prominent.
In 1798, the first woollen factory was built; and in
1841 there were eight factories; and the number of
looms in the factories is now much greater than the
number in smaller buildings and in private houses.
The chief market for the fabrics is Glasgow; and
other markets are Stirling, Perth, and Edinburgh.
Population of the town in 1841, 2,092; in 1861,
3,147. Houses 330.
ALVAH, a parish on the north-east border of
Banffshire. Its post-town is Banff. It is bounded
on the north-east and east by Aberdeenshire, and on
the other sides by the parishes of Forglen, Mamock,
and Banff. Its length is about 6 miles; and its
breadth varies from 2 to 6 miles. The river Deve-
ron enters the parish about a mile below Forglen
house, which is on its northern bank, and, after
winding through a fertile valley, leaves it at a point
about 2 miles from the sea. It here abounds with
salmon, trout, and eel; and is frequented by wild
ducks, widgeons, teals, and herons. About half-a-
mile below the church, the river is contracted by
two steep and rugged precipices, commonly deno-
minated the Craigs of Alvah, between which it is
about 50 ft. in depth. The scenery, naturally bold
aad picturesque, was greatly embellished here by
its noble proprietor, the late Earl of Fife, who threw
a magnificent arch over the river. The haughs
along the banks of the river are subject to inunda-
tions, especially in the neighbourhood of the Craigs
of Alvah, which check the rapidity of the stream,
and throw the water backward. As we recede from
the Deveron towards the west, the country becomes
more hilly and barren. One of the most conspicu-
ous hills is the Hill of Alvah, which rises from the
bed of the river to the height of 578 ft. above the
level of the sea, and selves as a landmark to mari-
ners on their approaching the coast. This is an
isolated bill, and is situated on the northern border
of the parish; and the hill of Maunderlea, 155 ft.
higher, is situated nearly four miles to the south-
west, and is connected with other heights, and com-
mands a vast prospect of the district of Buehan, the
valley of the Deveron, and the coast of the Moray
frith. An ancient castle, said to have been built by
an Earl of Buehan, stood in a swamp, now a fertile
field, near Montblairy ; arid an ancient chapel stood
on an adjoining eminence; but both have disap-
peared. A noted fountain, called St. Colme's well,
was recently converted into a source of constant and
copious supply of pure water to the town of Banff.
An extensive distillery was formerly on the Mont-
blairy estate. Population in 1831, 1,278; in 1861,
1,467. Houses, 245. Assessed property in 1843,
£4,869 14s. 3d.; in 1864, £7,783 6s.
This parish is in the presbytery of Turriff, and
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, Sir G. S. Abercromby,
Bart. Stipend, £178 15s. 5d. ; glebe, £25. Unap-
propriated teinds, £221 16s. 6d. Schoolmaster's
salary, £60, with about £20 fees. The church was
built in 1792, and has 600 sittings. There are two
private schools.
ALVES, a parish, containing a small post-office
village of its own name, on the sea-board of Mora\'-
shire. It is bounded on the north by the Moray
frith, along which it extends about one mile ; on the
east by the parishes of Duffus and New Spynie; on
the south by Elgin, from which it is separated by
Pluscardine hill; and on the west by Kinloss and
Eafibrd parishes. Its outline is veiy irregular; and
its surface varied with hill and dale. The soil is in
general a deep fat loam incumbent on clay. There
are six landowners. The assessed property in 1843,
was £5,707 18s. 9d.; and in 1860, it was £7,545.
At the south-eastern extremity of the parish is a
conical hill called the Knock of Alves, which yields
a good freestone for building. The only relic of
feudal times is the castle of Asleisk, on the Earl of
Fife's property. There is no river, or even consi-
derable stream, in this parish ; but the Aberdeen
and Inverness railway passes through it, and has a
station here, at the junction of the branch to Burg-
head, 5J miles from Elgin and 7 from Forres. The
village of Alves is a small straggling group of
houses, on the highway between Elgin and Forres.
Population of the parish in 1831, 945; in 1861,
1 010. Houses, 199.
This parish is in the presbytery of Elgin, and
synod of Moray. Patron, the Earl of Moray. Sti-
pend, £215 Is. 8d., with a glebe. Unappropriated
teinds, £130 13s. Id. Schoolmaster's salary, £52
10s., besides £25 fees. The parish church was
built in 1769, and has 590 sittings. There is a Free
church; attendance about 270; yearly sum raised
in 1865, £124 15s. 6d. There are three private
schools, and a small parochial library.
ALVIE, a highland parish, containing the post
office station of Lynwilg, in the district of Badenocb,
Invemess-shire. Its form is very irregular. The
principal inhabited division lies along the northern
side of the river Spey, here running from south-west
to north-east ; and is from north-east to south-west
about 10 miles long, and from 1 to 2 broad. It is
bounded by the parish of Kingussie on the south-
west; Moy on the north-west; and Duthel on the
north-east. On the southern side of the river, Alvie
parish extends, along the course of the Feshie,
about 10 miles by 3; and is bounded on the east by
Eothiemurchus; on the south by Blair; and on the
west by Kingussie. Its total extent from north to
south is upwards of 20 miles ; and it has an area of
about 90 square miles. The mountains are in gen-
eral extremely barren, covered with heath, and fre-
quently rocky. Those to the south of the Spey,
belonging to the Grampian chain, are much higher
than those to the north; some points here rising to
4,500 ft. above the sea-level. The interjacent val-
leys afford a plentiful aud rich pasture in summer,
but are for the most part inaccessible in winter.
The lower or arable part of the parish, intersected
by the Spey for the space of two miles, consists of a
light stony soil, lying on sandy gravel, and produc-
ing heavy crops of corn in a wet season, but ex-
ceedingly parched in dry weather. There are some
extensive plantations of firs and larches: and natu
ALVIE.
41
ALYTH.
ral coppices of birch, alder, and mountain-ash. The
valued rent of the parish is .SI, 39-4 Scots; the real
rent was long ago above £2,000 ster. Assessed pro-
perty in 1860, £3,731. The river Spey here abounds
with salmon, trout, aud pike. The Feshie affords
trout and salmon. It rises on the northern side of
the Grampian range, in the southern extremity of
the parish; and Hows at first north-east, till it ap-
proaches the road from Castleton of Braemar, where
it bends north-west, and then north, pursuing the
course of the narrow valley through which also the
only road intersecting the parish is led, and falling
into the Spey, a little above that enlargement of the
river called Loch Insch, and near Invereshie. The
only detached loch in the parish is that of Alvie.
It is a beautiful sheet of water, about a mile long,
and half-a-niile broad. It has a communication with
the Spey, but it is not supposed that its trout visit
the Spey ; pike are also found in it of from 1 lb. to
7 lbs. weight. An elegant mansion was built here,
named Belleville, by James Macpherson, Esq.,
translator of Ossiau's poems, who was a native of
Badenoch, and died here on the 17th of February,
1796, but was buried, at his own desire, in West-
minster abbey; and Belleville afterwards became
the residence of Sir David Brewster. At no great
distance from Loch Alvie is the burial-place of the
chief of the Macphersons. Another fine mansion in
the parish is Kinrara house, long celebrated in fa-
shionable and literary circles as the favourite seat
of the accomplished Duchess of Gordon. The Spey,
flowing under a long wall of mountain-crags and
fir plantations, embraces in its sweep a verdant
plain which is close shut in on the opposite side by
the hill of Tor- Alvie ; in this spot, on a knoll com-
manding the small plain, and itself sheltered by the
loftier Tor, is the far-lamed cottage of the duchess.
Dr. Macculloeh thus describes the scenery of Kin-
rara: " A succession of continuous birch-forest, co-
vering its rocky hill and its lower grounds, inter-
mixed with open glades, irregular clumps, and scat-
tered trees, produces a scene at once alpine and
dressed, combining the discordant characters of wild
mountain landscape aud of ornamental park-scenery.
To this it adds an air of perpetual spring, and a
feeling of comfort aud of seclusion which can no-
where be seen in such perfection; while the range
of scenery is at the same time such as is only found
in the most extended domains. If the home-grounds
are thus full of beauties, not less varied and beauti-
ful is the prospect around: the Spey, here a quick
and clear stream, being ornamented by trees in every
possible combination, and the banks beyond, rising
into irregular, rocky, and wooded hills, everywhere
rich with an endless profusion of objects, and, as
they gradually ascend, displaying the dark sweep-
ing forests of fir that skirt the .bases of the farther
mountains, which terminate the view by their bold
outlines on the sky." The swran, a variety of fisb-
ing-ducks or duckers, and the woodcock, live here
in winter, but retire in summer. There is a small,
recently - formed village, called Lynchat, on the
Belleville property, near the south-west extremity
of the parish. Population of that village in 1851,
73. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,092; in
1861, 833. Houses, 176.
This parish is in the presbytery of Abernethy,
and synod of Moray. Patron, the Duke of Rich-
mond. Stipend, £158 4s. 6d., with manse and glebe.
Schoolmaster's salary now is £40, with £18 school-
fees, and £4 10s. emoluments. The parish church
was built in 1798, and repaired in 1833, and has 500
sittings. There is a government church at Insch,
within 4 miles of the parish church. See Insch.
There is a Free church, formerly a station, for Alvie
and Kothiemurchus; and the yearly sum raised in
connection with it in 1865 was £74 Is. 4d. There
is also a Roman Catholic chapel, with an attendance
of about 160. There are two private schools.
ALYTH, a parish partly in Forfarshire, but chief-
ly in Perthshire. It lies on the north side of Strath-
more, and contains a post-town of its own name.
It is bounded by the parishes of Glenisla, Airlie,
Ruthven, Meigle, Bendochy, Blairgowrie, Rattray,
and Kirkmickael. The river Isla separates it from
Airlie and Meigle ; and the Ericht or Blackwater
separates it from Bendochy and Kirkmiehael. Its
length from north to south is about 15 miles; and
its breadth varies from 1 mile to upwards of 6. It
is divided into two districts of unequal extent and
of widely different character by the hills of Alyth,
Loyall and Barry. The southern district, which
lies in the strath, is about 4 miles long, and 3 broad.
The lower part along the Isla is extremely fertile,
producing excellent crops of barley, oats, and wheat;
but the frequent inundations of the Isla — which
sometimes rises suddenly in harvest to a great
height — are liable to occasion great disappoint-
ment and loss to the husbandman. The hill of
Barry is about a mile in circumference at the base,
and has a height of 680 feet ; and the hills of Alyth
and Loyall are somewhat higher. On the northern
side of the hill of Alyth there is an open country of
considerable extent, and capable of great improve-
ment. Beyond the hill of Banff — which is 2 miles
north-west of the town of Alyth — is the forest of
Alyth, a large tract of heathy ground, of more than
6,000 acres, which formerly belonged to four pro-
prietors who possessed it in common, but is now
divided among them. The forest, which is skirted
on the west with arable ground, affords pasture for
a considerable number of sheep and black cattle ; it
abounds in game, especially moorfowl, and is much
frequented in the shooting-season. At the north-
western extremity of the parish there is a beautiful
little district surrounded with hills, and intersected
by the Ericht, which in summer has a delightful ap-
pearance. Mount Blair, the most considerable hill
in this parish, but belonging partly also to Glen-
isla, is a very conspicuous piece of land. The
base is not less than five miles in circumference ;
and the summit has an altitude of about 2,260 feet
above the level of the sea. This mountain affords
good pasture for a great number of sheep, and
abounds in limestone. About 3 miles south-west
of Mount Blair, on the west side of the forest of
Alyth, is the King's-seat, rising to the height of
1,179 feet above the level of the sea. The situation
is romantic ; the water of Ericht runs at its foot on
the west, and the side of the hill for a considerable
way up is covered with a beautiful natural wood.
The largest interior stream of the parish is the burn
of Alyth, which rises in the mosses of the forest,
and runs to the Isla at Inverqueich. On the sum-
mit of the hill of Barry there is an area about 60
yards long and 24 broad, surrounded with a mound
of earth, 7 feet high, and 10 broad at the top. On
the west and north borders of this area are seen the
marks of something like huts built of dry stones,
which may have served to shelter the besieged from
the weapons of the assailants, and the inclemency
of the air. The northern and western sides of the
hill are steep and almost inaccessible ; on the south
and east, where the declivity is more gentle, there
is a broad and deep fosse, over which, at the south-
ern extremity, is a narrow bridge built of unpolished
stones and vitrified. It evidently appears to have
been designed for a temporary retreat in time of
war, and is well-adapted for that purpose. The tra-
ditional account is, that Barry bill was the place
AMISFIELD.
42
ANCRUM.
where Queen Guinevra, the wife of the British king,
Arthur, who was taken prisoner in a battle between
the forces of that monarch and those of the Scots
and Picts, was confined by her captors. The man-
sions in the parish are Banff-house, Balhary, Loyall,
Balindoch, and Jordanston. The real rent by valu-
ation in 1837, including the houses in the town, was
little short of £12,000. Assessed property in 1865,
£17,058 0s. 4d. Population in 1831, 2,888 ; in 1861,
3,422. Houses, 608.
This parish is in the presbytery of Meigle, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £229 19s. 6d.; glebe, £14. Unappropriated
teinds, £134 Is. lid. Schoolmaster's salary, £52
10s., with fees and other emoluments. The parish
church is an elegant structure in the Norman style
of architecture, built in 1839, and has 1,290 sittings.
An Episcopalian congregation has existed here since
the Revolution ; and they have a chapel, built in
1857, and containing about 150 sittings. A Seces-
sion congregation was organized in 1781 ; and their
church, now United Presbyterian, has 270 sittings.
A Free church was built immediately after the Dis-
ruption, and contains between 700 and 800 sittings;
yearly sum raised in 1865, £307 16s. 2d. There are
an Industrial school, a Free church school, and
an Episcopalian school.
The Town op Alvih stands on the burn of Alyth,
2 miles above its confluence with the Isla, 4 miles
from Meigle, 5 miles from Blairgowrie, 12 from For-
far, and 17 from Dundee; and it has a junction rail-
way from the Scottish Northeastern at Meigle, opened
in 1841. It is a burgh of barony, and lias been so
since the reign of James III. The superiors of it
are the family of Airlie, who have the title of Barons
of Alyth. It was a market town in the reign of
David Bruce ; and it continues to have a weekly
market on Tuesday, though this is now little more
than nominal. It stands in a healthy situatiou, and
enjoys an ample supply of excellent water. A sys-
tem of police is maintained within it ; and a baronial
court is held ou the first Tuesday of every month.
The chief employment is handloom weaving of
coarse linen for the Dundee trade ;. but it yields
such miserable remuneration that many persons en-
gaged in it are glad to take part in the harvest work
of the neighbouring farms. There are two power-
loom factories ; the one with about 100 looms; the
other founded about the end of 1865. The town
contains the places of worship, and has an office of
the Bank of Scotland, and two of the Royal Bank.
Fairs are held on the third Tuesday of May, on the
second Tuesday of June old style, on the first Tues-
day of August, on the first Tuesday and Wednesday
of November old style, and on the second Tuesday
after the 11th of November old style, and monthly
cattle markets are held during the winter months.
Population in 1841, 1,846; in 1861, 2,106.
AMISFIELD, a village, an estate, and the seat
of a post-office, in the parish of Tinwald, Dumfries-
shire. Here are traces of an ancient fort, which
probably was a Roman station. Here too is an
ancient baronial tower, one of the most curious and
most perfect in the kingdom, a tall, square, stubborn-
looking fortalice, 5 miles north-east of Dumfries,
between the two head-streams of the Lochar. This
was long the family seat of the Anglo-Norman fam-
ily of Charteris, or Chartres, who migrated north-
wards during the reign of David I., but seem to
have first settled at Kinfauns in Perthshire. The
apartments are placed one above another, and com-
municate by a narrow stair.. There is a curiously
carved door on one of them, of which Mr. Chambers
has given an amusing account, and which door alone,
he avers, " makes Amisfield castle worth going
twenty miles to see." See Tinwald. Amisfield has
a station on the Dumfries and Lockerby railway.
Population of the village, 140.
AMISFIELD, a seat of the Earl of Wemyss, in
the parish and shire of Haddington, on the banks of
the Tyne, about 1 mile east of Haddington. It is a
handsome edifice of red-coloured sandstone, situated
in the midst of an extensive park, and fronting to-
wards the river and the great post-road from Dun-
bar to Haddington. It contains some fine paintings.
It was built by the famous Colonel Charteris, who
named it from the ancient seat of his family in
Nithsdale, the subject of the preceding article. His
only daughter conveyed it by marriage to the noble
family of Wemyss.
AMPLE GLEN. See Balquhidder.
AMULREE, a small village, with a post-office,
in the parish of Dull, Perthshire. It stands on the
river Braan, and on the road from Crieff to Aberfel-
dy; 10 miles south-west of Dunkeld, 10J south of
Aberfeldy, and 11 J north of Crieff. Its site is
thought by Dr. Buckland to have been fashioned by
a group of low moraines. It is encompassed with
wild highland scenery, and has many attractions for
sportsmen. It contains an inn, a government
church, and a Free church. The minister of the
government church has a stipend of £65, and a
manse and garden and small glebe. The yearly
sum raised in connexion with the Free church in
1863 was £15 12s. 8id. Fairs are held on the first
Wednesday of May and the day before, and on the
Friday before the first Wednesday of November.
ANABICH, an island in the Outer Hebrides, par-
ish of Lewis, county of Inverness. Population in
1841, 41; in 1861, 59; Houses 12.
ANCRUM, a parish, containing a post-office
village of its own name, nearly in the centre of
Roxburghshire. It is bounded by the parishes of
St. Bos well's, Maxton, Roxburgh, Crailing, Jed-
burgh, Bedrule, Minto, Lilliesleaf, and Bowden.
The Teviot, along which it stretches about 5 miles,
divides it from Jedburgh and Bedrule. The greatest
length of the parish is not less than 6 miles, and its
breadth does not exceed 4. The old parish of Long-
newtown forms the north and north-west parts of the
present parish of Ancrum, and was annexed to it in
1684. The Ale, after fetching 'many a loop and
link ' on the borders of the present parish, flows
through it to the village of Anerurn, where it fetches
another circuit, and then falls into the Teviot, at the
distance of half-a mile below the village, and a quar-
ter of a mile above Anerurn bridge on the great road
to Jedburgh. The soil, in the lower grounds of the
parish, on Teviot side, is rich, consisting of a mix-
ture of sand and clay, and, in some places, of a
loam. On the higher ground, or ridge which per-
vades the parish from east to west, and on the de-
clivities exposed to the north, the surface is heath
on a bottom of cold clay ; but the flat ground, on
both the Ancrum and Longnewtown side of the Ale,
is a naturally rich though stiff clay. In 1837, as
stated by the New Statistical Account, 7,496 acres
were under' cultivation, and above 800 in wood. There
was formerly a greater extent of wood in this par-
ish ; but none of long standing remains, except upon
the banks of the Ale, near the village of Ancrum,
and in the environs of Ancrum-house. The princi-
pal landowners are Sir William Scott, Bart., of An-
crum, Ogilvie of Cheaters, Richardson of Kirklands-,
the Duke of Roxburgh, the Marquis of Lothian, the
Earl of Minto, and six others. The assessed pro-
perty in 1843 was £8,892 lis. 6d.; in 1863-4, £12,498
17s. There are several freestone quarries. The
stone is of two colours, red and white; and it is
easily wrought and of a durable quality. The
ANCRUM.
43
ANCRUM.
situation of Ancrum-house, where tho village of
Over-Ancrutn formerly stood, is picturesque and at-
tractive. Spots of verdant lawn, craggy knolls,
scattered trees, and, on the verge of the river, steep
banks, in some places naked and of broken surface,
and in others clothed with wood, here exhibit a fine
assemblage of romantic objects. The trees surround-
ing Ancrum-house are the oldest and most beautiful
in the district: they consist of oaks, beech, elms,
S lanes, and limes. The prospect from the house
own the vale of Teviot, of the junction of the Ale
and Teviot, and towards the lofty mountains of
Cheviot, is extensive and striking. Chesters-house
is a fine building, picturesquely situated farther up
the Teviot; and Kirklands, on the Ale, is deservedly
admired for both its architecture and its situation.
The Roman road from York to the frith of Forth,
after passing through the north-east part of the
parish of Jedburgh, cuts a small part of the north
corner of Ancrum ; and upon the top and declivity
of the hill to the eastward, on the border of Max-
ton parish, vestiges of a Roman camp may still be
traced. — There is a ridge in this parish, over which
the road to Edinburgh passes, about a quarter or
half-a-mile west of the line of the Roman road, on
the border of Maxton parish, called Lylliard's, or
Lilyard's edge, from a lady of that name, who, on
an invasion of the English under Sir Ralph Evers,
and Sir Bryan Latoun, in 1544, during the distracted
regency of the Earl of Arran, fought with masculine
bravery, and fell here under many wounds. The
old people point out her monument, now broken and
defaced. It is said to have borne an inscription —
recast from the well-known lines on a Chevy-Chase
hero — running thus:
" Fair maiden Lylliard lies under this stane;
Little was her stature, but great was her fame;
Upon the English louns she laid mony thumps,
And when her legs were cutted off, she fought upon her stumps."
Sir Walter Scott, in a note on the ballad of ' The Eve
of St. John,' gives the following account of the battle
of Ancrum Moor. In 1545, [1544?] Lord Evers and
Latoun again entered Scotland, with an army con-
sisting of 3,000 mercenaries, 1,500 English borderers
and 700 assured Scottish-men, chiefly Armstrongs,
Tumbulls, and other broken clans. In this second
incursion, the English generals even exceeded their
former cruelty. Evers burned the tower of Broom-
house, with its lady, (a noble and aged woman, says
Lesley,) and her whole family. The English pene-
trated as far as Melrose, which they had destroyed
last year, and which they now again pillaged. As
they returned towards Jedburgh, they were followed
by Angus, at the head of 1,000 horse, who was
shortly after joined by the famous Norman Lesley,
with a body of Fife-men. The English, being pro-
bably unwilling to cross the Teviot, while theScots
hung upon their rear, halted upon Ancrum moor,
above the village of that name; and the Scottish
general was deliberating whether to advance or re-
tire, when Sir "Walter Scott of Buccleuch came up
at full speed, with a small but chosen body of his
retainers, the rest of whom were near at hand. By
the advice of this experienced warrior — to whose
conduct Pitscottie and Buchanan ascribe the success
of the engagement — Angus withdrewfrom the height
which he occupied, and drew up his forces behind it,
upon a piece of low flat ground, called Panier-heugh,
or Paniel-heugh. The spare horses being sent to an
eminence in their rear, appeared to the English to be
the main body of the Scots, in the act of flight.
Under this persuasion, Evers and Latoun hurried
precipitately forward, and, having ascended the hill,
which their foes had abandoned, were no less dis-
mayed than astonished, to find the phalanx of Scot-
tish spearmen drawn up, in firm array, upon the flat
ground below. The Scots in their turn became the
assailants. A heron, roused from the marshes by
the tumult, soared away betwixt the encountering
armies: ' O!' exclaimed' Angus, ' that I had here my
white goss-hawk, that we might all yoke at once!'
[Oodscroft.] — The English, breathless and fatigued,
having the setting sun and wind full in their faces,
were unable to withstand the resolute and desperate
charge of the Scottish lances. No sooner had they
begun to waver, than their own allies, the assured
Borderers, who had been waiting the event, threw
aside their red crosses, and, joining their country-
men, made a most merciless slaughter among the
English fugitives, the pursuers calling upon each
other to ' remember Broomhouse !' — [Lesley, p. 478.1"
The English had 800 men slain, and 1,000 made
prisoners in this battle. Their leaders, Evers and
Latoun, were also left on the field,
"where Ancrum moor
Ran red with English blood;
Where the Douglas true, and the bold Buccleuch,
'Gainst keen Lord Evers stood.
The most venerable fragment of antiquity in the
parish were the Maltan walls, which stood on a
rising ground at the bottom of the village of Ancrum,
close to the side of the Ale, where it turns its course
towards the south-east, but whose last relics fell to
the ground in the winter of 18S6-7. " These walls,"
says the Statistical reporter in 1796, " were strongly
built of stone and lime, in the figure of a parallelo
gram; and, ascending on one side from the plain
adjacent to the river, were considerably higher than
the summit of the hill which they enclose; but are
now levelled with its surface, and small part of them
remains. Vaults or subterraneous arches have
been discovered in the neighbouring ground, and
underneath the area enclosed by the building.
Human bones are still found by persons ploughing
or digging in the plain at the side of the river,
which is an evidence of its having been formerly
occupied as burying-ground. The name, which
these walls still retain, gives the colour of authen-
ticity to a tradition generally received in this part
of the country, that the building and surrounding
fields had been vested in the knights of Malta, or
Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem,
who, upon account of their splendid achievements
and meritorious services in the holy wars, acquired
property even in the most remote kingdoms of
Christendom. — On the banks of the Ale, below the
house of Ancrum, there were several caves or re-
cesses, and not less than fifteen may be still pointed
out. In some, of them there are also vestiges of
chimneys or fire-places, and holes for the passage of
smoke from the back part of the cave to the outside
of the bank. From these appearances, it is natural
to conclude, that, though these caves — so frequently
found on the banks of rivers in border-counties — were
originally intended for places of concealment and
shelter, yet, after the happy event which put an end
to interior violence and depredation, they were pro-
bably assumed by the poorer classes for places of
habitation, and improved by such further accommo-
dations as the rude or simple taste of the times re-
quired."
The village of Ancrum stands on a rising ground,
on the right bank of the Ale, a little west of the
Jedburgh and Edinburgh road, and about 3J miles
north-north-west of Jedburgh. Its original or
uncontracted name was Alneerumb or Alncromb, and
signifies the crook of the Alne, — the original name of
the Ale; and is exactly descriptive of its situation
on a hold sharp curve of the river. The scenery
around it is softly yet richly picturesque. The pre-
ST. ANDREWS.
44
ST. ANDREWS.
sent village, as regards its buildings, is nearly all
modern ; but it dates from a considerable antiquity,
and has in the centre of its green an ancient cross!
It was long called Nether- Ancrum, to distinguish it
from the now extinct village of Over- Ancrum ; and
both of these villages were burned to the ground
during the hostilities connected with the battle of
Ancrum Moor. Population of the present village in
1861, 538. The Edinburgh and Hawick railway
traverses the north-west part of the parish, and has
a station in it at Belses. Population' of the parish
in 1831, 1,454; in 1861, 1,511. Houses, 274.
This parish is in the presbytery of Jedburgh, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, Sir Wil-
liam Scott, Bart. Stipend, £223 16s. 6d.; glebe,
£30. Schoolmaster's salary now is £50, with £29
fees. The parish church was built in 1762, and re-
paired in 1832, and has about 520 sittings. There
is a Free church : attendance 200 ; yearly sum
raised in 1853, £68 16s. 5H.,— in 1865, £111 4s.
There are two private schools.
ANDEESTON. See Glasgow.
ANDREWS (St.), a parish, containing a city of
the same name, on the east coast of Fifeshlre. It is
bounded on the north by the Eden river and its
estuary, which separate it from Leuchars parish;
on the north-east by the German ocean; on the
south-east by the Kenly burn, which separates it
from Kingsbarns and Denino parishes; and on the
south and west by the parishes of Denino, Cameron,
Ceres, and Kemback. Its greatest length is about
10 J miles from north-west to south-east; its average
breadth does not exceed If mile; though in the
north-western part it exceeds 4 miles, measuring
from St. Andrews links to the western boundary of the
parish at Chalderhills. Its area somewhat exceeds
17 square miles, and may he stated at 11,000 acres.
The ascent of the surface is from the north to the
south and east. From the Eden to the city of St.
Andrews, the coast presents a flat firm sandy
beach, skirted by the finks so famous in the annals
of golfing. From the city to the south-eastern ex-
tremity of the parish, the shore outwards from high
water-mark is lined with rough and ragged shelving
rocks covered with sea-weed, while the coast in-
wards is very rocky and hold, in some places pre-
senting perpendicular rocks of the height of 30 or 40
feet, yet the plough here comes to the very brink,
having a sufficiency of soil. The boundaries of the
parish to the south and west terminate in moors
covered with short heath and furze. In common
with all the eastern part of the island, this district is
well-acquainted with the cold damp easterly winds,
or haars of April and May. The south-west wind,
however, is the prevailing wind. There are no con-
siderable lakes or rivers within the parish. In the
embouchure of the Eden — up which the tide flows 4
miles — is a flat sandy bay abounding with large
flounders, cockles, and mussels. In the course of
the river, for about a mile from its mouth, salmon
are caught, but in no great quantity. Towards the
east end of the parish are some small creeks among
the rocks, where fishing-boats and small vessels oc-
casionally unload at low water. St. Andrews bay is
proverbially dangerous to navigators. Vessels driven
into it by an easterly wind, being unable to weather
the opposite points of Fifeness and the Redhead,
are compelled to run into the mouth of the Tay,
which presents an intricate navigation amid its
sand-banks. On the lands of Brownhills and Kin-
kell— which form the first rising ground eastward
from St Andrews harbour — there are a few insulated
rocks, from 20 to 40 feet high, and of nearly equal
breadth; one about half-a-mile from the harbour, is
called the Maiden stone; and about half-a-mile far-
ther is the Rock and Spindle. The chief land-marks
m this parish are the steeples of St Andrews, and a
small obelisk of stones, on the highest part of the
farm of Balrymont, about two miles south-east of
the town. The principal hills are the East and
West Balrymonts, which rise to the altitude of about
360 feet above sea-level; and the hill of Clatto
winch has an elevation of 548 feet. On Strath-
kinness moor, about 3 miles west from the town
and on Nydie hill— which is a more elevated and
westerly portion of the same moor— are quarries of
excellent freestone, of which most of the houses in
ftt. Andrews are built. In Denhead moor coal is now-
being worked; and on the estate of Mount Mel-
ville_ there is extensively wrought ironstone. About
a mile east from the harbour, there is a natural
cave, called Kinkell cave. The direction of it is
southwards, and it penetrates about 80 feet - the
shelving of the freestone roof presents a triangular
cross section, and there is a continual dropping from
the roof and sides which are covered with hanging
plants. There are no very old or extensive planta-
tions of wood in this parish. The number of acres
under cultivation is about 10,000. The landowners
are veiy numerous. The average rent of land is
about 30s. per acre. The total yearly value of raw
produce was estimatedin 1838 at £46,625. Assessed
property in 1865, £22,193 18s. 5d. There are four
villages, Strathkinness, Boarhills, Grange, andKin-
caple. The highways are such only as diverge
from St. Andrews as a centre, viz. to Crail south-
east; south to Anstruther ; south-west to Ely; west
to Cupar; and north-west to Dundee. A railway of
44 miles, opened in 1852, goes from the city north-
westward, by Pilmuir Links and Edenside, and joins
the Dundee fork of the North British at Leuchars.
On the road to Dundee, over the Eden, is a bridge
of six arches, called the Gair or Guard -bridge,
originally built at the expense of Bishop Wardlaw,
who died in 1444, and who established a family of
the name of Wan as hereditary keepers of this
bridge, for which they have a perpetual fee of about
10 acres of land adjoining to it. Population in
1831, 5,621 ; in 1861, 7,092. Houses, 1,716.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Fife. It is a collegiate charge ; the Crown
appointing the first minister; and the town-council
of St. Andrews the second. Stipend of the first
minister £439 9s. 4d., with a glebe of the annual
value of £23 ; of the second, £161 ISs. 2d., with a
glebe of the value of £16 5s. 2d.; both ministers
have an additional allowance for a manse. Unap-
propriated teinds .£791 9s. lOd. The parish church,
within the city of St. Andrews, was erected in the
12th century, and thoroughly repaired in 1798.
Sittings, 2,128. A new church, quoad sacra, is at
Strathkinness : and a church was contemplated, in
1865, at Boarhills. There are in the city a Free
church, with handsome Gothic front, and 900 sit-
tings, whose yearly income in 1865 was £715 0s. 9d ;
a United Presbyterian church, built in 1865, with a
fine spire, and 500 sittings ; an Episcopalian chapel,
built in 1825, at a cost of 1,400, and enlarged in
1853 ; an Independent chapel built in 1858, with 360
sittings; and a Baptist chapel built within the last
few years. There is also a Free church at Strathkin-
ness, whose yearly income in 1865 was £125 9s. ljd.
The places of education, in addition to the Univer-
sity and the Madras College, comprise some board-
ing schools, and a number of private schools.
The small parish of St. Leonards lies partly em-
bosomed in the parish of St. Andrews, and is identi-
fied in most of its interests with that parish and with
the city. It consists of several detached districts in
and around the city, and of three farms about 4 miles
ST. ANDREWS.
45
ST. ANDREWS.
ilistant, and surrounded by the parishes of St. An-
drews, Kingsbarns, Crail, and Denino, — all origin-
ally belonging to the priory, afterwards to the col-
lege of St. Leonard, and now to the United college
of St. Salvator and St. Leonard. Its total extent is
820 acres. It is probable that the erection of the
parish is of the same date with the foundation of
the college whose name, it bears. Although the
principal of St. Leonards did not always officiate as
minister of the parish — and in the instance of Mr.
George Buchanan, was not even a clergyman — it is
certain that for some time before the Revolution,
the two offices were held by the same person ; and
from that period till 1836 the principal of the col-
lege was a clergyman and the minister of this par-
ish. Stipend, £152 Is. 9d.; glebe, £25. The chapel
of St. Salvator's college is used as the parish-
church ; the old parish-church having been long in
rains; sittings, 312. Population in 1831, 482; in
1861, 513. Houses, 98. Assessed property in
1865, £1,189 7s. 7d.
The City of St. Andrews stands on a rocky
ridge, in the central part of the coast of the parish
of St. Andrews, 10 miles east of Cupar- Fife, and 39
north-north-east of Edinburgh. The ridge is about
three-quarters of a mile long and half-a-mile broad,
and is washed by the sea-waves on the east and
north. It terminates on these sides in abrupt pre-
cipices of 50 feet in depth; and it gives the city, to
a traveller approaching from the west, an appear-
ance of elevation and grandeur. Its surface looks
to the eye to be flat, but really declines gently on
all sides from a point near the centre of the city.
The view of the place, with its environs and back-
I grounds, from almost any part at the distance of
some miles to the west and north-west, is magnifi-
cent. On the left the eye ranges over the vast
sweep of the bay of St. Andrews, and the coast of
Angus as far as the Redhead; on the right rises
the richly wooded hank of Strathtyrum ; while the
venerably majestic towers and numerous spires of
St. Andrews, shooting into the air, over the horizon
line, directly in 'front, combine to form a finely
varied and imposing scene, especially at that fair
hour
" When morning runs along the sea
In a gold path."
The city commands a fine and open prospect of the
German ocean towards the north-east ; and the view
on the opposite quarter is bounded by a curvilineal
range of hills running from north to south-east, and
cultivated to their summits. The road from Crail
— or the coast-road, as it is called — conducts us to
a view greatly admired by some, and indeed per-
haps preferable to any other of St. Andrews ; for the
scenery is here softened and improved by gardens
and fruit-trees, amid which the houses lie half-con-
cealed, seeming to retire as it were into the shade.
We have, at the same time, a fine prospect of the
harbour, and of the ruins of the monastery and the
cathedral. Some, however, prefer the view of St.
Andrews from the side of Mount-Melvil, or the
south-west prospect of it, on the road from Anstru-
ther, to either of the two we have just described.
From this point the city appears still more closely
embosomed in gardens and plantations, above which
numerous spires and pinnacles shoot up, conferring
on it " a kind of metropolitan look." The city is
about two miles in circuit, and has three chief streets,
—South-street, Market-street, and North-street,
each averaging about 70 feet in breadth, and all
intersected by smaller ones, well-built, well-paved,
and lighted at night with gas. The whole ground
plan is remarkably regular. Some of the largest
and most prominent lines of building were origin-
ally uniform; and a few parts are sprightly and
ornate with elegant new houses. Yet tho three
principal streets do not lie exactly parallel to one
another, but diverge in a westerly direction from
the cathedral, like spokes from the centre of a
wheel. There was formerly another street, called
Swallow-street, which lay farther to the north, now
converted into a public walk, and known by the
name of the Scores. The castle stood on the north
of Swallow-street, 300 yards distant from the cathe-
dral. St. Salvator's, called also the Old or the
United college, is on the northern side of the town,
between North-street and the Scores; St. Mary's, or
the New college, directly opposite to it, on the
south side of South-street. The buildings belong-
ing formerly to the third college, or St. Leonards,
are towards the east, off the east end of South-street.
On the site of the Blackfriars monastery stands the
splendid range of buildings belonging to the Madras
college, to be afterwards noticed. At the west end
of the Scores was built by subscription, in 1842, a
handsome monumental obelisk, 45 feet high, on a
massive base, in memory of the Protestant martyrs
of St. Andrews, the circumstances of whose death
will be afterwards mentioned. The total area of
the city, including its gardens, is about 130 acres.
St. Andrews has been described as a parodox of
splendour and desolation. Spacious streets, ornate
buildings, local sports, and intellectual amusements,
— the Union Club house on the Links, with its golf,
sea-bathing, and fine promenades, — good society, ed-
ucation, libraries, antiquarian and historical associa-
tions, give it a grand aggregate of attractive char-
acter. Great improvements, both in renovating the
old streets and in erecting new ones, have recently
been made ; and already, on entering the town from
the west, we see its elegance extending as if by an-
ticipation of a brilliant future. Playfair and Gilles-
pie terraces, the former on a line with North-street,
the latter on a line with the Scores, present exqui-
site cottage-rows in freestone; Gladstone-crescent,
to the south of Playfair- terrace, presents magnificent
piles of building ; and many other new streets and
places, in the north-west and the west, appear in all
the beauty of fine freestone and ornamental masonry.
South-street, which, as to both position and im-
portance, might be called the High-street, is not
excelled in fine old magnificence by any thorough-
fare in any city; and a new street, called South
Bell-street, deflecting northward from its western
part, is composed of neat private residences. And
in looking round on the various public edifices,
modern and ancient, it is difficult to decide whether
most to admire the Collegiate church, the Madras
college, the University library, the Infant school,
the remains of the old church of St. Leonards, or the
gorgeous and gigantic ruins of the cathedral and
the castle. The most popular of all the modern at-
tractions is the late Sir Hugh Lyon Playfair's gar-
den, which presents a rich display of floral beauty,
novel and unique machinery, humorously libelled
automata, music ground by flowing streams, jets
d'eau, rockeries, and other striking features.
St. Andrews had once seven incorporated trades;
and not the least of these was the weavers. Weav-
ing was largely carried on, both throughout the
city and in the suburbs; but, in 1865, only four
members of the weavers' incorporation survived, not
one of whom had worked a web for many a day, and
only four old men still drove the shuttle. The mak-
ing of golf balls, of sheep skin stuffed with feathers,
was long a great branch of industry, and nearly the
only one the city could boast of; but, in conse-
quence of the introduction of gutta-percha in ball-
ST. ANDREWS.
46
ST. ANDREWS.
making, this is now extinct. A spinning-mill was
tried but did not succeed ; and the buildings of it
were extended to form what is now known as
Fleming-place. An extensive steam saw-mill, the
property of Mr. Gibson Woodburn, is near the har-
bour ; and the life-boat house is adjacent to it. A
flour-mill of modern erection, a reconstruction of the
old Abbey mill, was built by the incorporation of
bakers, and is now worked by private enterprise ; and
a mill for barley and oatmeal is at the harbour. There
are offices of the Bank of Scotland, the Royal Bank of
Scotland, the Eastern Bank of Scotland, the Clydes-
dale Bank, and a branch of the National Security
Savings' Bank. A market is held every Monday for
grain, and every Wednesday and Saturday lor poul-
try and dairy produce. Fairs are held on the second
Monday of April, the second Tuesday of August,
and the last Monday of November. Communication
is maintained by railway, several times a-day, with
Cupar, Dundee, and Perth, and through these with
places beyond them. The principal inns are the
Cross Keys Hotel, the Star Hotel, and the Royal
Hotel. A new golf club-house was founded, with
masonic honours, in July 1853. Had St. Andrews,
with its antiquarian associations, been written into
popular notice by Burns, Byron, or Scott, it would
probably be drawing far more wealth from the visits
of fashionable tourists than from all its few and
feeble appliances of trade and manufacture. But
by a strange popular caprice — aided perhaps by
the one-eyedness of its position, away from the
straight line of any great thoroughfare — it con-
tinued till quite recently to be totally neglected,
and was now and then heard of at a distance almost
as much for its forlorn appearance as for its curious
ruins. Since the opening of the railway, however,
it has begun to be a little better appreciated ; and
perhaps it may hope ere long to be visited by
strangers in some due proportion to what Lord
Teignmouth calls "its own picturesque situation, the
extent, diversity and grandeur of the remains of its
ancient secular and ecclesiastical establishments, the
importance of the events which they attest, and the
celebrity which it has derived from the records of his-
torians and thedescriptions of topographical writers."
St. Andrews long made a great figure as a sea-
port and a seat of trade. It was in the meridian of
its glory in the 15th and beginning of the 16th cen-
turies. Merchant-vessels were then accustomed to
resort to it, not only from the opposite ports of Hol-
land, Flanders, and of Fiance, but from all the other
trading kingdoms of Europe. At the great annual
fair, called the Senzie market — which was held
within the priory in the month of April — no fewer
than from 200 to 300 vessels were generally in the
port. In 1656, Tucker describes this town as " a
pretty neat thing, which hath formerly been bigger,
and, although sufficiently humbled in the time of
the intestine troubles, continues still proud in the
ruines of her former magnificence, and in being yett
a seat for the muses." At that period only one ves-
sel of 20 tons burden belonged to the port ; and up-
wards of a century later there were only two small
vessels. A revival afterwards occurred ; and in
1838, there were 14 vessels, of aggregately 680
tons. The port also was made a bonding port ; and
it, for some time, yielded about £700 a-year of cus-
toms. A great trade suddenly arose likewise in the
export, to iron-works on the Tyne, of calcined iron-
stone from newly discovered mines at Winthank,
about 3 miles from the city ; but that trade did not
last, and all other trade now is small. The chief is
the import of coal coastwise, and of timber from
Norway or the Baltic. A schooner, the property of
local merchants, had a few years before 1865 to be
given up ; and an attempt to run a steamer to An-
struther and Leith in the summer of 1865 proved an
expensive failure. The harbour, with the exception
of a small stream flowing through it, is dry at low
water ; it has so little depth across the mouth at
any time, that any vessel of more than 100 tons
burden is obliged to discharge part of her cargo be-
fore she can attempt to enter it ; and though per-
fectly safe and sufficiently commodious within, it
often can be approached only with much peril, in
consequence of the narrowness of its entrance, and
of being exposed to a heavy rolling sea in easterly
winds. Some improvements have been made on it;
but far greater ones are needed. Yet the shore
dues, which are available for them, and for upkeep
and repairs, amounted in 1862 to only £190 16s., and
are at the same time available for the general im-
provement of the town.
St. Andrews was created a royal burgh in 1140;
and a city or archbishop's see in 1471. As a royal
burgh, it is now classed with Cupar, Easter and
Wester Anstruther, Crail, Kilrenny and Pitten-
weem, in returning one member. The parliamen-
tary constituency, in 1865, was 296; the municipal
293. The first member elected under the Reform
act, was Andrew Johnston, Esq. of Rennyhill, who
continued to represent the burghs till 1837; and
Edward Ellice, Esq., a well-known reformer, was
returned by a majority of 29 votes in that }Tear, and
again without opposition in 1865. The city is
governed by a provost, dean of guild, four bailies,
and 23 councillors. The debt of the burgh in 1832
was £4,662 ; but nearly all this was paid off a few
years ago by the sale of town's property. Cor-
poration revenue in 1863-4, £927, besides £285 from
Dr. Bell's bequest. Value of real property in 1864-5,
£19,462. The magistrates and council have the
patronage of the second charge in St. Andrews
parish-church; they were also patrons of the town-
schools, but have transferred this right to Bell's
trustees. The burgh boundaries were extended in
1860; and a thorough system of drainage was intro-
duced in 1864—5. Population of the city in 1801,
3,263 ; in 1831, 4,462. Pop. of the parliamentary
burgh in 1861, 5,176. Houses, 794." Pop. of the
municipal burgh in 1861, 5,141. Houses, 786.
The original name of this city was Mucross, i. e.
'the Promontory of boars ; ' from muc, a sow or boar,
and ross, a point, promontory, or peninsula.* But
St. Regulus, or St. Rule, a monk of Patras, a city in
Achaia, where the bones of St. Andrew were kept,
having been warned in a vision to take some of
these precious relics, and carry them with him to a
distant region in the west, obeyed the command, and
about the year 365 landed in this neighbourhood,
and having been successful in converting the Picts,
Hengustus, or Hungus, the king of the country,
changed the name of Mucross into that of Kilry-
mont, i. e. Cella regis in monte, or ' the Chapel of
the King on the Mount;' having given to Regulus
and his companions a piece of ground adjoining the
harbour, on which he also erected a chapel and
tower in honour of the monk, and bearing his name.
The exemplary virtues of Regulus and his compa-
nions— legendary history goes on to say — drew a
great resort of people to his chapel ; and the name
of the city was soon changed from Kilrymont to
Kilrule, ». e. ' the Cell or Church of Regulus,' which
name is still retained in Gaelic. Dr. Jamieson
thinks it highly probable that such a gift was made
* The village of Boarhills, in what was originally called Ihe
Boarchase, a tract of country stretching from Fifeness to the
neighbourhood of St. Andrews, retains the original name of the
district,as translated into the dialect of later inhabitants; and
the arms of the city display a boar tied to a tree.
ST. ANDREWS.
47
ST. ANDREWS.
by Hungus. " For," says? lie, " it appears indispu-
table, that, about the year 825, he founded a church
at Kilrymont; which henceforth received the name
of the apostle to whom it was dedicated. Sibbald
views this gift of the Pictish king as meant for the
benefit of the Culdees. But we have more direct
evidence. For, as Martino speaks of ' Baronia Cale-
daiorum infra Cursum Apri,' or ' the Barony of the
Culdees below the Boar's raik,' the extracts bear,
that this was given by King Hungus to St. Rule.
Yet we learn, from the same source of information,
that this tract was afterwards taken from the Cul-
dees, and given first to the bishop, and then to the
prior and canons regular of St. Andrews; ' so that,'
as Sir James Dalrvmple observes, ' this place ap-
peareth to have been one of the ancient seats of the
Culdees.' In the tenth century, such was their
celebrity at St. Andrews, that King Constantino
III. took up his residence among them, and A. 943,
died a member of their society, or, as Wyntown
says, abbot of their monastery:
Nyne hundyr wyntyr and aucht yhcre,
Quhen gayne all Donaldis dayis were,
Heddis sowne cald Constantino
Kyng wes thretty yhere: and syne
Kyng he scssyd tor to be,
And in Sanct Andrewys a Kylde.
And there he lyvyd yheris tyve,
And Abbot mad, endyed his lyre. — Cromtkrt, B. vi. c. x.
It is also believed that an Irish king attached kiru-
Belf to this religious body. For we learn from the
Ulster Annals, that A. 1033, Hugh Mac Flavertai
O'Neill, king of Ailech, and heir of Ireland, 'post
penitentiam mort. in St. Andrewes eccl.' " | History
of the Culdees, p. 148.1 The walls of St. Eule'"s
chapel, and a tower still remain ; though these are
not probably the relics of the original building. The
tower is a square of 20 feet on the side, and about
108 feet high, without any spire; the outside, from
top to bottom, is of fine ashler work. The tower
was covered with a flat roof and parapet, at the ex-
pense of the Exchequer, towards the end of last cen-
tury ; and a turnpike stair reared within leading to
the top, from which there is a fine prospect. The
name, Kilrule, continued in use till the 9th century,
when the Picts were finally vanquished by the
Scots, who changed the name to St. Andrews.
The cathedral of St. Andrews is supposed to have
been founded in the year 1159; but a period of 160
years elapsed before its completion, in 1318. It was
demolished in June, 1559, by a mob, inflamed by a
sermon of John Knox's, wherein " he did intreet
(treat of) the ejectioune of the buyers and the sellers
furthe of the temple of Jerusalem, as it is written
in the evangelists Matthew and John; and so ap-
plied the corruptioune that was then to the corrup-
tiouue in the papistrie ; and Christ's fact to the
devote (duty) of thois to quhome G-od giveth the
power and zeill thereto, that as weill the magis-
trates, the proveist and baillies, as the commonalty,
did agree to remove all monuments of idolatry:
quhilk also they did with expeditiouue." Such in-
deed was their expedition, that this noble edifice, the
labour of ages, was demolished in a single day.*
* Tennant, the author of 'Anster Fair,' in a clever though
less pleasing and less successful poem, entitled l Papistry
Storm'd,' [Edin. 1S27, 12mo.,] has sung in quaintest dialect, and
with all the facetious strength, fluency, and vivacity, which he
attributes to the vernacular idiom of Scotland-
" The steir, strabush, and strife,
Whan, bickerin1 frae the towns o' Fife,
Great bangs of bodies, thick and rife,
Gaed to Sanct Audrois town,
And, wi' John Calvin i' their heads,
And hammers i' their hands and spades,
. EnragM at idols, mass, and beads,
Dang the Cathedral down."
" While entire, the cathedral church," says Mr.
Grierson, " had five pinnacles or towers, and a great
steeple. Of the towers, two stood on the west gable,
two on the east, and one on the south end of the
transept or cross-church. Two of these towers, with
the great steeple over the centre of the church, have
long since disappeared. Three of the towers yet
remain, the two on the east gable, which is still
entire, and one of those on the west. The other, it
is said, fell about two hundred years ago, immedi-
ately after a crowd of people had passed from under
it in returning from an interment. Large fragments
of it still remain, which show the goodness of the
cement with which the stones have been joined to-
gether. The towers are each 100 feet high from
the ground to the summit, and they rose consider-
ably above the roof of the church. The two eastern
ones are joined by an arch or pend, forming the great
east light of the church, till they rise above the
height of the roof; and it is evident that the western
ones have been in the same state when entire.
From each of these towers, to within the church,
opened three several doors into so many galleries
along the walls ; which galleries were supported by
pillars, 16 in number on each side, and at the dis-
tance of 16 feet from the wall. All that now re-
mains of this once magnificent pile, is the eastern
gable entire, as has been said, half of the western,
the south side-wall from the western gable till it
join the transept, a length of 200 feet, and the west
wall of the transept itself on the south side of the
church. The rest is entirely gone, ' eveiy man,' as
Dr. Johnson expresses it, ' having earned away the
stones who imagined he had need of them.' From
the length of time which elapsed during its erection,
and the varying tastes of the ages in which it was
built, we might be led to conclude beforehand that
there would be found in it different styles of archi-
tecture, and the conjecture is confirmed by the ap-
pearance of what remains. For on the east gable
there is to be seen the Gothic mixed with the Saxon;
and in the part of the south side-wall which still
subsists, we have ten windows, six of which, name-
ly, those toward the west, are Gothic, and the other
four Saxon. The Barons of exchequer, in 1826,
caused the interior of the cathedral to be cleared
out, and various repairs to he executed with the
view of preserving this venerable relic of long-past
centuries, which
1 But for that care, ere this had past away.' "
The Crown lands are now the property of the uui ■
versity, having been very recently purchased by that
body from the Crown for £2,600, with the view of
forming a botanical garden and observatory, and
preserving the venerable ruins from further dilapi-
dation ; but they still lie in their old desolation.
In the vicinity of the cathedral stood the priory,
or Augustine monastery, founded by Bishop Kobert
in 1144. John Hepburn, prior of St. Andrews,
about the year 1516, surrounded the monastery on
the north, east, and south sides with a magnificent
wall, which is still pretty entire, and is nearly half-
a-niile in extent. It is about 22 feet high, and 4
feet thick; and encloses a space of about 18 acres.
But of all the various buildings which once occupied
this sacred enclosure, only a few vestiges now re-
main. Near the west end of South-street stood a
monastery, which Grose, in his Antiquities, assigns
to the Dominicans; bur Keith informs us that it was
a convent of Observantines. A Dominican convent,
we know, was founded in St. Andrews by Bishop
Wishart in 1274, and an Observantine establishment
by Bishop Kennedy, 150 years later. " The only
ST. ANDREWS.
48
ST. ANDREWS.
part which now remains of the buildings of the con-
vent, beside the grammar-school," says Mr. Grier-
son, writing in 1807, " is a fragment, with an arched
roof in the Gothic style, extremely elegant in ap-
pearance, and supposed to have been the chapel. It
strikes one as decidedly the most beautiful specimen
of Gothic architecture now to be seen at St. An-
drews." This fragment is now enclosed within the
grounds of Madras college, and its preservation will,
we doubt not, be an object of solicitude to the trus-
tees of that noble institution. Besides St. Eule's,
and the cathedral, Martine, in his ' Reliquse Divi
Andrea;,' written in 1685, mentions, as- having been
in some sort discernible in his time, fourteen differ-
ent buildings: among which were the prior's house,
commonly called the Old inn, which stood to the
south-east of the cathedral ; the cloisters, which lay
west from the prior's house, separated from it only
by the dormitory. In this quadrangle was held the
great fair called the Senzie market, which began in
the 2d week after Easter, and continued for 15 days.
The refectory, or dining-room, was in length 108
feet, and in breadth 28. It is now a garden; in
Martine's time it was a bowling-green. Fordun re-
lates, that Edward I., in 1304, stripped all the lead
off this building to supply his battering-machines in
a projected siege of Stirling. The New inn, the lat-
est built of all the edifices in the monastery before
the Reformation, is said to have been erected on the
following occasion : — James V. having married the
Princess Magdalene, the only and lovely daughter
of Francis I. of France, in 1537, the young queen,
being of a delicate constitution, was advised by her
physicians to reside here for the benefit of her health.
The New inn was, in consequence, built for the pur-
pose of accommodating her majesty; and was erect-
ed, we are told, with such rapidity, that it was
begun and finished in a single mouth ! The queen,
however, never enjoyed it, for she died at Holyrood-
house, on the 7th of July, six weeks after her arrival
in Scotland. The New inn was the residence of the
archbishops after the annexation of the priory to the
archbishopric in 1635. — The Kirkheugh, or St.
Mary's church, no longer exists. Martine says,
that in his time the manse of the provost of Kirk-
heugh was still standing, " on a little height above
the shore of St. Andrews, now in no good repair;"
and that " a little north from it were, to be seen the
ruins of old buildings, which were the chapel itself."
A discovery of the substructions of the chapel was
made in 1860, when it was found to have been
ciuciform, and measuring, within the walls, 99 feet
along the nave and choir, 20 feet across the nave, j
and 84 feet along the transepts.
The castle of St. Andrews was founded towards
the conclusion of the 12th century, by Roger, bishop
of the diocese, and son of Robert, third Earl of
Leicester. It stood upon a point of land projecting
towards the sea, on the north side of the town, about
250 yards to the north-west of the cathedral. It
was enlarged and repaired betwixt the years 1318
and 1328. In 1336, Edward III. placed a garrison
in it to command the town and neighbouring coun-
try. On his return into England, however, a few
months after, the regent, Sir Andrew Moray of
Bothwell, in conjunction with the Earls of March
and Fife, besieged this stronghold, reduced it in the
space of three weeks, and entirely demolished it a
short time after. Bishop Trail repaired the castle
towards the end of the 14th century, and died in it
in 1401. James III. was born in the castle, as ap-
pears by the golden charter of the see granted to
Bishop Kennedy ; and it continued to be the epis-
copal palace till the murder of Beaton in 1545.
Detached from the town, and bounded on two sides
by the sea, the ruins of the castle now serve as a
useful land-mark to mariners. The sea washes the
rock on which it is built on the north and east sides,
and has in some places undermined its walls, a con-
siderable part of which fell in consequence of this in
December 1801. Martine says, that in his time
there were people living in St. Andrews who remem-
bered to have seen bowls played on the flat ground
to the east and north of the castle; the ocean, there-
fore, must have made great encroachments on this
part of the coast. It has recently swept away the
curious cave known as Lady Buchan's cave, on the
shore between the harbour and the castle. Every
winter huge masses of the promontory are broken
down and carried away by the tide.
The University of St. Andrews is the oldest in
Scotland, having been founded in 1411 by Henry
Wardlaw, bishop of the diocese, who obtained the
sanction of papal confirmation from Benedict XIII.,
in 1413. The success of the original institution led
to the foundation of St. Salvator's college, about the
year 1455, by James Kennedy, Bishop of St. An-
drews ; St. Leonard's college, founded by Prior
Hepburn, 1512 ; and St. Mary's, founded by Arch-
bishop Beaton, in 1537. In each of these colleges
were lecturers in theology, as well as in philosophy,
languages, &c. In the reign of James VI. 1579,
under the direction of Andrew Melville, these es-
tablishments were new modelled, and St. Mary's
college appropriated to the exclusive study of theo-
logy; it is therefore distinguished by the name of
the Divinity college, or the New college. In 1621,
an act was passed re-establishing, in all their arti-
cles, the first foundations of the colleges, but still
assigning to St. Mary's the department of theology.
In 1747, on a petition from the masters of St. Sal-
vator's and St. Leonard's, these two colleges were
united into one society, under the designation of
the United college. " The statute ordained," says
the Report of the Commissioners in 1832, " the
United college shall consist of one principal, one
professor of Greek ; three professors of philosophy ;
whereof one is to be professor of logic, rhetoric, and
metaphysics, another to be professor of ethics and
pneumatics, and the third to be professor of natural
and experimental philosophy; one professor of
humanity; one professor of civil history, in place
of the suppressed humanity professorship of St.
Salvator's college; one professor of mathematics,
and a professor of medicine; 16 bursars on the ori-
ginal foundations; together with such as have been
since or may hereafter be added, and the necessary
servants: that the whole funds already or to be ap-
propriated for the payment of the salaries of the
principal and professors (all specially fixed by the
act), shall be joined into one common stock, and be
levied and received for their use, by such factor or
steward as they shall from time to time appoint :
that the patronage of the priucipalship and of the
professorship of mathematics shall belong to the
Crown ; of the professorship of civil history to the
Earl of Cassillis ; of the professorship of humanity
to Scott of Scotstarvet ; of the professorship oi
medicine to the university, to be exercised as
formerly ; of the remanent professorships to the
principal and professors of the United college, to
be determined by comparative trial, in such form
and manner as was usually observed in former
times; of the bursaries to thf same body, to be be-
stowed as before the Union, the whole being a
well-timed and judicious piece of legislation, which,
by raising the condition of the collegiate body,
secured to it in some degree superior qualifications,
and which, though bestowing, after all, only a very
moderate endowment on the chairs of the seminary
ST. ANDREWS
4«J
ST. ANDREWS.
ban in fact filled them, since the date of it, wi.h
talents and attainments of the most respectable
order, and the highest usefulness." The university
commissioners, whose report we are now quoting,
add: " It is pleasant to he enabled to state, that the
members of the Senatus Academieus themselves
have, on every occasion on which they could act
with ell'ect, manifested the utmost zeal in the cause
of literature and science, and for the efficiency and
fame of their university. In 1811, their medical
chair, which it would appear had never become
effective, engaged their attention; and in conse-
quence of authority vested in them by its munifi-
cent founder, the Duke of Chandos, to form such
regulations and statutes as might tend to the pro-
motion of its object, they resolved that it should be
a chair for instruction in the principles of medicine,
anatomy, and chemistry, and that the holder of it
should be an efficient professor, teaching two very
important branches of medical science, chemistry
and chemical pharmacy. They made at the same
time certain arrangements for creating a fund, to
meet the expense of a chemical apparatus and class
experiments; and ever since that time, the pre-
scribed branches have been taught eveiy session
with great ability, and to a respectable class.
About 1818-19, a class for political economy was
opened by the professor of moral philosophy, and
the lectures on the subject have been so attended of
late, as to show that the science is growing at St.
Andrews, as elsewhere, into estimation and request.
In the session of 1825-6, the United college origin-
ated a lectureship for natural history; and to pro-
mote the permanency and success of the measure,
they voted 25 guineas from their revenue, as an
annual salary to the lecturer. Some bequests of
specimens have given a beginning to a museum,
and the subjects of the science have excited great
interest among the students." Since the date of
this Report, a regular chair of natural history has
been established, the museum has been augmented
into a very fine collection, and the two together
have materially increased the reputation of the
university. The revenue of the university, as dis-
tinct from the two colleges, does not exceed £600,
and is chiefly appropriated to the support of the
university library. The income of the United col-
lege, in 1774, was £1,727; in 1823, £3,020. The
salary of the principal, in 1824, was £342 ; of each
of the. four foundation-professors, £254; of each of
the professors of humanity, civil histoiy, and medi-
cine, £140 ; of mathematics, £245. The bursaries
belonging to the United college are 63, besides
prizes; and there are foundation scholarships, first
competed for in Sept 1865. The annual amount
of grants from the Crown is £297. The united col-
lege holds the patronage of Denino, Kemback, Kil-
meny, and Cults, and alternately with another
patron, Forteviot. The buildings of St. Salvator's
college have been re-erected by government grants,
within the last 37 years ; and they form a magnifi-
cent square, ornamented by a handsome spire 156
feet high. Through a portal directly under this
spire we enter a quadrangular court, 230 feet long,
and 180 broad. The chapel stands on the right: is
a handsome edifice, with Gothic front and turreted
buttresses ; and has six beautiful memorial windows.
In the chapel is an elegant tomb, erected by Bishop
Kennedy, the founder, for himself. "It is a piece of
exquisite Gothic workmanship; and though much
injured by time and accidents, is still sufficiently
entire to show the fine taste of the designer. It
stands on the north side of the church, opposite to
where the altar formerly stood, and where the pul-
pit now stands. An epitaph is easily discernible
T
upon it, consisting of two lines, but so much defaced
as to be altogether illegible. The top was orna-
mented by a representation of our Saviour, with
angels around, and the instruments of the passion.
The bishop died in 1466, and was embalmed with
spices and buried in this tomb. Within it, and ac-
cording to tradition, about the year 1683, were dis-
covered six magnificent maces, which had been
concealed there in troublesome times. Three of
these maces are kept in St. Andrews, and Bhown as
curiosities to strangers ; and one was presented to
each of the other three Scottish universities, Aber-
deen, Glasgow, and Edinburgh. One of the maces
is very superior in elegance and value to the rest,
and is the original, of which the others are only
copies. It is of beautiful Gothic workmanship.
The bishop seems to have copied it in the architec-
ture of his tomb." The roof of the church, which
was of beautiful Gothic architecture, having become
apparently insufficient, it was judged necessary to
pull it down, and to substitute another in its place.
In doing this, the architect unfortunately suffered the
tomb of Kennedy to be greatly injured. The average
number of students at St. Salvator's is about 200.
St. Leonard's college obtained its name from its
vicinity to St. Leonard's church. " It appears,"
says a modern author, " from the foundation-char-
ter, that there had been an hospital in the same
place for the reception and entertainment of pil
grims of different nations, who crowded to St. An
drews to pay their devotions to the arm of St.
Andrew which wrought a great many miracles
At length, however, the saint's arm being tired
with such laborious sort of work, or thinking he
had done enough, the miracles and the conflux of
pilgrims ceased, and the hospital was deserted.
The prior and convent, who had been the founders
and were the patrons of the hospital, then filled it
with old women; but these old women produced
little or no fruit of devotion, and were turned out.
The prior and convent, having repaired the church
and hospital of St. Leonard, next resolved to con-
vert them into a college, to consist of a master or
principal, four chaplains, two of whom were to be
regents, and twenty scholars, who were first to be
taught the languages and then the liberal arts and
sciences. Six of them, who were thought most fit,
were also to apply, with great ardour and vehement
reading, — ' continuo studio et lectura, vehementi
opera,' — to the study of theology under the princi-
pal. Such of these scholars as were found fittest
for it, were also to be taught music, both plain song
and descant. The foundation-charter to this pur-
pose, was executed by the archbishop, the prior,
and chapter, at St. Andrews, August 20, 1512. By
another charter, the prior and chapter endowed this
college with all the houses, lands, and revenues
which had belonged to St. Leonard's hospital."
Both these charters received the royal confirmation
in next year. On the union of this college with St.
Salvator's, the buildings of it were sold and con-
verted into dwelling-houses, to which purpose such
of them as now remain are still applied. It stood
on the south-east side of the town, adjoining to the
monastery. The ruins of the church of St. Leonard
are accounted a fine specimen of Gothic architec-
ture. Into this church, it seems, Dr. Johnson
could obtain no admission. He was always, be
says, prevented by some civil excuse or other; and
he loudly complains of its having been applied to
the profane purpose of a green-house. It is now
entirely unroofed. A little way to the east of it,
and on the right, as we proceed from the principal
gate of the abbey to the shore, stood an aged syca-
more, which, the same traveller informs us, was' the
Tl
ST. ANDREWS.
50
ST. ANDREWS.
only tree he had been able to discover in the county
" older than himself." It was for a long time known
by the name of Dr. Johnson's Tree.
St. Mary's college was originally projected by
Archbishop James Beaton, uncle and immediate
predecessor to the famous cardinal of that name.
We are informed, that in the year 1537, " he aug-
mented the seminary called the Pedagogy, by a
variety of endowments, and afterwards converted it
into St. Mary's college: that he had determined to
pull down the buildings of the above-mentioned
seminary, which were become old and infirm, and
inconvenient for the studies of the youth, and to
erect from the foundation others in a more magnifi-
cent style, but was prevented by death. He built,
however," says our authority, " several parts, and
completed some that had been begun by others.
His successor and nephew, the cardinal, proposed
to follow out his uncle's plans, and had made some
progress in the undertaking when he was assassi-
nated in the castle. Having demolished a set of
old buildings, he laid the foundation of what was
intended to be a handsome church, within the col-
lege, but this was never finished." In 1553, Arch-
bishop Hamilton gave a new establishment to this
college, according to which it was to consist of 36
persons: viz., a prefect, a licentiate, a bachelor, a
canonist, 8 students of theology, 3 professors of
philosophy, 2 of rhetoric and grammar, 16 philoso-
phy students, a provisor, a janitor, and a cook.
The income of this college on an average of 7 years
preceding 1826, was £1,076. The principal has a
salary of £238; the professor of divinity, of £231;
the church-history professor, £286; and the Hebrew
professor, £211. By the charters of foundation, the
right of patronage of the parishes of Tynningham,
Tannadice, Inchbroyack or Craig, Pert, and Lau-
rencekirk, was vested in St. Mary's college. Pert
is now united to Logie, and the crown and college
present to that united parish alternately. The
patronage of Tynningham was sold by the college
to the Earl of Haddington, in the year 1760. But the
college is still in possession of the other patronages.
In the year 1803, the college obtained the right of
patronage to the church of Tweedsmuir; and it
would appear from the evidence that it was granted
to the college by the late Mr. Scott of Dunninald.
There are 20 bursaries, the total annual income of
which averages £199. The average number of stu-
dents is about 30. The buildings of this college
stand on the south side of South-street, forming two
sides of a quadrangle. On the west are the teach-
ing and dining halls, both upon the first floor ; and
immediately below is the prayer-hall, in which the
students used to assemble twice eveiy day, viz., at
nine in the morning, and at eight at night, for pub-
lic prayers. The evening-service was abolished
some years ago. The north side of the quadrangle
is formed by the principal's residence and by an
arched gateway ; and the south-west corner of the
court is occupied by the house of the janitor. Con-
tiguous, towards the east, is the University library,
containing 60,000 volumes, and forming, in continu-
ation with these buildings, part of the south side of
South-street.
The Madras college was founded by the Rev. Dr.
Andrew Bell, one of the prebendaries of Westmin-
ster, and the founder of the Madras system of tuition,
who died at Cheltenham, in January, 1832. Dr. Bell
was a native of St. Andrews, and, among other
splendid bequests for the purposes of education in
Scotland, left a sum of £50,000 in trust, for the pur-
pose of founding a seminary within the city of St.
Andrews, with which the English and grammar-
schools are now incorporated. The buildings are in
the Elizabethan style, and form a handsome quad-
rangle, with a court within. The number of pupils
attending the Madras college is upwards of 1,000.
The branches taught are English, Greek, and La-
tin, arithmetic, mathematics, geography, writing,
drawing, French, German, and Italian, and church-
music. The trustees are the provost of the city,
the two parish -ministers, and the sheriff- depute of
Fife. The lord-lieutenant of Fife, the lord-justice-
clerk of Scotland, and the episcopal bishop of Edin-
burgh, are patrons and visitors of the college.
St. Andrews is a place of great antiquity, and has
been the scene of some of the most memorable events
recorded in Scottish history. We have already
noticed several of the most memorable facts in its
early annals ; and will now supply a few additional
historical notices to complete our sketch of the civil
and the ecclesiastical history of this city. In 1298,
Edward I., after defeating Wallace at Falkirk, sent
a division of his army across the Forth to punish the
men of Fife for the aid they had given Wallace.
They found St. Andrews deserted of its inhabitants
and "wasted it full plaine." In March 1309,
Robert Bruce convened his first parliament here,
who recognised his title to the crown, by a solemn
declaration. In the 15th and 16th centuries the
sanguinary temper of its ecclesiastics was often
fearfully displayed. In 1407, John Resby, an
Englishman, was burnt alive in this " town of
monks and bones," for disseminating the doctrines
of Wickliffe; and about twenty-four years after-
wards, Paul Craw, a Bohemian, suffered the same
fate, for propagating the tenets of Jerome and Huss.
On March 1st, 1527, Patrick Hamilton, abbot of
Feme in Ross-shire, a young man of great accom-
plishments, and related to some powerful families,
being the son of Sir Patrick Hamilton of Kincavil,
and Catharine daughter of the Duke of Albany, and
a nephew of the Earl of Arran, was burnt before
the gate of St. Salvator's college. Not many months
after, a man of the name of Forest was led to the
stake for asserting that Hamilton died a martyr.
On the 28th of March, 1545, the sainted Wishart
was burnt before the castle, then the archiepiscopal
palace of the ferocious Cardinal Beaton, under cir-
cumstances of peculiar barbarity. The front of the
great tower was hung, as for a festival, with rich
tapestry; and cushions of velvet were laid in the
windows for the cardinal and prelates to repose
on, while they feasted their eyes and glutted
their fury with this most inhuman spectacle. The
cardinal was so infuriated against the noble con-
fessor that he forbade, by proclamation, the inhabi-
tants of St. Andrews to pray for him, under pain
of the severest ecclesiastical censures; and in his
haste to get his victim put out of the way, the civil
power was not consulted at the trial. But the
avenger of blood was nigh at hand. By his un-
bounded ambition, relentless cruelty, and insupport-
able arrogance, Beaton had raised up against him-
self a host of enemies, who had even before Wishart's
arrest and execution determined on his destruction.
A conspiracy was formed against his life, at the
head of which were Norman Lesley, Master of Rothes,
his uncle John Lesley, and Kirkaldy of Grange.
With fourteen associates, they assembled in the
church-yard, on Saturday the 29th of May 1545, at
3 o'clock in the morning; and having gained ad-
mittance into the castle — which was then repairing
— by small parties at a time, they turned the ser-
vants out, to the number of 150; and then proceed-
ing to the cardinal's room, forced open the door,
which their wretched victim had barricaded from
the inside, and rushing upon him, stabbed him re-
peatedly with their daggers. But Melville, a milder
ST. ANDREWS
51
ST. ANDREWS.
fanatic, who professed to murder, not. from pas-ion.
but religious duty, reproved their violence. " This
judgment of God," said he, " ought to be executed
with gravity, although in secret;" and presenting
the point of his sword to the bleeding prelate, he
called on him to repent of his wicked courses, and
especially of the death of the holy Wishart, to
avenge whose innocent blood they were now sent
by God. " Remember," said he, " that the mortal
stroke I am now about to deal, is not the mercenary
blow of a hired assassin, but the just vengeance
which hath fallen on au obstinate and cruel enemy
of Christ and the Holy Gospel." On his saying
this, he repeatedly passed his sword through the body
of his unresisting victim, who sank down from the
chair to which he had retreated, and instantly ex-
pired. The conspirators then brought the body to
the very window in which Beaton had a little ago
sat with so much unfeeling pride to witness the
burning of Wishart, and exposed it to the view of
the people with every mark of contempt and igno-
miny. Balfour says, that the cardinal's corpse,
" after he had lyne salted in the bottom of the sea-
tower within the castell, was some 9 months there-
after taken from thence, and obscurely interred in
the convent of the Black friars of St. Andrews, in
anno 1547." John Knox, after having, as he ex-
presses himself, " written merrily " upon the sub-
ject, informs us, that " as his funeral could not be
suddenly prepared, it was thought best to keep him
from spoiling, to give him great salt enough, a cope
of lead, and a corner in the sea-tower, (a place where
many of God's children had been imprisoned before)
to wait what exequies his brethren the bishops
would prepare for him." Language such as this
can hardly fail to inspire disgust. But the following
lines of Sir David Lindsay of the Mount, express,
with tolerable accuracy, the sentiments with which
the most judicious individuals amongst the reformers
at that time regarded the cardinal's murder: —
" As for the cardinal, I grant,
He was the man we well might want;
God will forgive it soon.
But of a trnth, the sooth to say,
Although the loan be well away,
The deed was foully done."
The conspirators were shortly after joined b}r 120
of their friends, and held out the castle for more
than a year; but at last capitulated to Leo Strozzi,
prior of Capua, a knight of Rhodes, who entered the
bay with a squadron of 16 galleons, and speedily
effected a breach in the walls. In April, 1558, Wal-
ter Mill, priest of Lunan, near Montrose, an infirm
old man, above 80 years of age, was burnt at St.
Andrews for the crime of heresy. So strongly was
the resentment of the populace expressed on this
occasion, that he was the last victim of popish
cruelty in Scotland. "It was at St. Andrews, in June
1583, that James VI. found means to make his
escape from the state of captivity into which he had
been brought at Ruthven, and detained for nearly a
twelvemonth by the Earls of Mar, Gowrie, Glen-
caim, and others. The king having got permission
from these noblemen, who then attended him at
Falkland, to pay a visit to his uncle the Earl of
March, who resided in the monastery of St. An-
drews, went to view the works of the. castle a short
time after his arrival. He entered the fortress ac-
companied by the governor to whom he had con-
fided his intentions ; hut was no sooner in than he
commanded the gates to be shut, and admission re-
fused to the party who had attended him from Falk-
land. Having thus recovered his liberty, he was
soon joined by the well-affected part of his nobility ;
and a proclamation was forthwith issued by him,
"commanding all the lieges to remain quiet, and
discharging any nobleman or gentleman from com-
ing to court accompanied by more than the follow-
ing number of attendants: viz. fifteen for an earl,
fifteen for a bishop, ten for a lord, ten for an abbot
or prior, and six for a baron, and these to como
peaceably under the highest penalties." In 1609,
St. Andrews was the scene of a state-trial: that of
Lord Balmerinoch, secretary of state to James VI.
His crime was the having surreptitiously procured
the king's signature to a letter addressed to the
pope ; and being found guilty by a jury of fifteen of
his peers, he was sentenced to have his hands and
feet cut off, and his lands and titles forfeited. The
first part of the sentence was remitted by the inter-
cession of the queen ; hut he died a short time after,
in his own house, of a broken heart. In 1617,
James VI. having, from what he himself calls " a
salmon-like instinct to see the place of his breed-
ing," paid a visit to Scotland, and convened an as-
sembly of the clergy, both ministers and bishops, at
St. Andrews. He addressed them in a speech of
considerable length, in which he proposed the in-
troduction of episcopacy, and upbraided them with
what he called " having mutinously assembled
themselves, and formed a protestation to cross his
just desires." James was the last monarch who ever
honoured St. Andrews with his presence. During
the troublesome times which followed his death in
1625, while his son and grandsons successively filled
the throne, and endeavoured to follow out his plans
in the establishment of the episcopal religion in
Scotland, this city, as being the seat of the chief ec
clesiastical power, was frequently involved in trou
ble. The murder of Archbishop Sharp, in the
neighbourhood of St. Andrews in 1679, will be found
detailed in our article, Magus Mooe. The history
of the city of St. Andrews since that period presents
nothing sufficiently remarkable for notice in this
brief chronicle. We shall now sketch the history
of the see.
Kenneth III. translated the metropolitan episcopal
see of Scotland from Abernethy to St. Andrews.
Malcolm III. styled the bishop of St. Andrews
' Episcopus Maximus,' or Chief Bishop, and assigned
to him the oversight of Fife, Lothian, Stirlingshire,
the Merse, Angus, and the Mearns. He also con-
ferred upon him the lordship of Monymusk. Alex-
ander I. bestowed upon the see of St. Andrews the
famous tract of land called the Cursus Apri, or
Boar's chase, of which it is not now possible for us
to assign the exact limits, but " so called," says
Boece, " from a boar of uncommon size, which, after
having made prodigious havoc of men and cattle,
and having been frequently attacked by the hunts-
men unsuccessfully, and to the imminent peril of
their lives, was at last set upon by the whole coun-
try up in arms against him, and killed while en-
deavouring to make his escape across this tract of
ground." The historian farther adds, that there
were extant in his time manifest proofs of the ex-
istence of this huge beast; its two tusks, each six-
teen inches long and four thick, being fixed with
iron chains to the great altar of St. Andrews. Ac-
cording to the best authorities, there were thirty-
three successive prelates in St. Andrews before the
see was elevated to the dignity of an archbishopric,
in 1471. Neville, archbishop of York, having re-
vived a claim of superiority over the Scottish clergy,
which had already been productive of much ill-will
betwixt the two countries, the pope, to silence the
pretensions of York for ever, granted a bull erecting
the bishopric of St. Andrews into an archbishopric,
and subjecting to it the other dioceses of the church
of Scotland. The prelate, in whose favour thih bull
ST. AjNDBEWS.
52
ST. ANDKEWS.
was obtained, was Patrick Graham, formerly bishop
of Brechin, and brother by the mother's side, to the
celebrated James Kennedy, his immediate prede-
cessor. Graham, along with the primacy, obtained
the power of a legate from the pope, for the refor-
mation of abuses, and correcting the vices of the
clergy. But he does not appear to have been aware
of the difficulties he had to encounter here ; for the
clergy, with one consent, set themselves in oppo-
sition to him, and had influence enough to destroy
his credit even with the pope himself. They ac-
cused him to his holiness of schism, and other enor-
mous crimes, and prevailed so completely as to get
him degraded from his office. " The nobility and
courtiers also," says Spottiswood, " became his most
violent opponents, insomuch that he was suspended
by the king, excommunicated by the pope, expelled
from his see, and, at the end of thirteen years from
the date of his election, died in a state of imprison-
ment in the castle of Lochleven." The dioceses sub-
ject to the archbishop of St. Andrews, after the ad-
vancement of the see of Glasgow to the same dig-
nity, were the following nine: Dunkeld, Dunblane,
Brechin, Aberdeen, Moray, Ross, Caithness, Orkney,
and, after its erection in the reign of Charles I.,
Edinburgh. The province of the see of Glasgow
included the three dioceses of Galloway, Argyle,
and the Isles. The following is a list of the suc-
cessive bishops and archbishops of St. Andrews :
Fcrgustus 721
Hadrianus, or Adrian, elected
840, killed by the Danes 872.
Kellach I.
Malisius, or Malvesius I., died
in 970.
KeUach II. died 996.
Malmore.
Malisius II. died 1031.
Alwinus, from 1031—1034.
Maldwin, 1034—1061.
Tuthaldus, 1061—1065.
Fothaldus, 1065—1077.
Gregorius, bishop-elect.
Catharus.
Edmartis.
Godricus.
Tnrgot, died 1115.
Eadmerus, elected in 1120.
Robert, founder of the priory,
elected in 1122, died in 1159.
Arnold, founder of the Cathe-
dral, died in 1162.
Richard, chaplain to Malcolm
IV., died in 1177.
John and Hugh, a double elec-
tion.
Roger, who built the castle,
died in 1202.
William Malvoisine, chancellor
of the kingdom, died 1233.
David Bernham.
Abel.
Gameline, chancellor.
William Wishart, died 1279.
William Fraser, chancellor.
William Lamberton. died 1328.
James Bene, died 1332.
Vacancy of nine years.
William Landal, died in 1385.
Stephen de Pay.
Walter Trail, repaired the
castle, died 1401.
Thomas Stewart.
Henry Wardlaw, founder of
the university, consecrated in
1403, died 1440.
James Kennedy, founder of
St. Salvator's college, died
1466.
Patrick Graham, the first arch-
bishop, died 1478.
William Schives, died 1409.
James Stuart, chancellor, died
in 1503.
Alexander Stuart, chancellor,
killed at Flodden 1513.
Andrew Foreman, died 1522.
James Beaton, chancellor, died
in 1539.
David Beaton, cardinal and
chancellor, assassinated in
1545.
John Hamilton, hanged at
Stirling in 1570.
John Douglas, the first Pro-
testant bishop, consecrated in
1571, died 1576.
Patrick Adamson, died 1591.
Vacancy of fifteen years.
George Gladstanes, died 1615.
John Spottiswood, chancellor,
the historian, died 1639.
James Sharp, assassinated in
Magus-muir in 1679.
Alexander Burnet, died in
1684.
Arthur Ross, deprived of his
office at the Revolution in
1688, died in 1704.
It appears that the bishops of St. Andrews had
the power of coining money. But " the tradition
goes," says Martine, "that they could not coin
above a groat-piece; but this," continues he, " may
be allowed to be a mere conjecture, for the German
bishops, who coin, are not so restricted and limited.
For proof that sometimes this privilege has been in
use, I have seen copper coins bearing the same
mond, chapleted about and adorned with a cross on
the top, just in all things like the mond set by
Bishop Kennedy in sundry places of St. Salvator's
college, both in stone and timber, and the same way
adorned, with a common St. George's cross on the
reverse. The circumscriptions are not legible.
And some think that the magistrates of St. An-
drews, keeping in their charter-chest some of these
pennies, have done it in honour of their Overlord,
and for an instance and remembrance of his royal
privilege, which no subject in Britain has beside."
As the city of St. Andrews lay wholly within the
archbishop's regality, he was superior of all its pro-
perty in land. He was ' Conservator privilegioram
Ecclesias Scoticanaj,' guardian of the privileges of
the church of Scotland, and constant chancellor of
the university ex officio; but he was in many cases
also promoted to the dignity of lord-high-chancellor
of Scotland; and it was his privilege, in general, to
officiate at the coronation of the kings. Godricus,
bishop of this place, crowned King Edgar, son of
Malcolm Canmore; and Charles I. was crowned by
Spottiswood in 1633. The archbishop was, by act
of parliament, in the time of Charles II., constituted
perpetual president of the general assembly of the
church of Scotland; and he sat in parliament as a
temporal lord in all the following capacities : "As
Lord- Archbishop of St. Andrews; Primate of the
Kingdom; first of both states, spiritual and tempo-
ral; Lord of the Lordship and Priory of St. An-
drews; Lord Keig and Monymusk; Lord Byrehills
and Polduff; Lord Kirkliston, Lord Bishopshire,
Lord Muckhartshire, Lord Scotscraig, Lord Stow,
Lord Monymail, Lord Dairsie, Lord Angus, Lord
Tyningham, and Lord Little Preston." He also
took precedency of all noblemen whatever in the
kingdom, and ranked next to the royal family,
When the privy council, in 1561, passed the famous
act enjoining all beneficed persons to give in an
exact account of the rental of their benefices,
Hamilton, archbishop of St. Andrews, gave in the
following account of his:
In money,
Wheat,
Bear,
Oats,
Mr. Grievson estimates this revenue at £4,504 pre
sent currency. " And if," he says, "we add to this
sum the value of the priory, and other alienations
which had before this time taken place, we shall be
led to think that the income of the prelates of St.
Andrews, when in their most flourishing condition,
could not be much less in value than f1 0,000, that
is, than that sum would have been in /807. The
first great alienation of the revenues of this see was
the foundation of the priory in 1120; the second,
the erection of the hospital of Lochleven, or Scot-
land Well, in 1230; the third, the foundation and
endowment of St. Salvator's college by Bishop Ken-
nedy in 1455; the fourth, the disponing of Muckart-
shire by Schives to the Earl of Argyle, to engage
that earl to assist him in his dispute with the bishop
of Glasgow; the fifth, the erection of St. Mary's
college by the archbishops Stuart and the two Bea-
tons; and the sixth, the act of annexation in 1587
by which this see, with all the other church-bene-
fices in the kingdom, was annexed to the Crown,
and the rents and revenues of it disponed to the
Duke of Lennox by James VI., excepting only a
small pittance, reserved as barely sufficient for the
subsistence of Archbishop Adamson. It is true,
this act of annexation was repealed in 1606; but in
the act repealing it, and restoring the revenues of
the see, there were a number of important reserva-
tions made which prevented it from attaining its
former riches. The erection of the bishopric of
Edinburgh, in 1633, was another great loss; for all
the lands and churches, south of the Forth, belong-
ing to the archbishopric, were now disunited from
it, and conferred upon the new see. Yet the loss of
£2,904 7s. 2d
Chald.
Boll.
30
9
41
10
67
0
ST. ANDREWS.
53
ANNAN.
these was in some measure compensated by the
bounty of Charles I., who having, two years after,
purchased the priory from the Duke of Lennox, to
whom it had been gifted by James VI., disponed
this benefice to the archbishopric in lieu of the loss
it had sustained. Such were the most important
changes, losses, and revolutions, which this see, in
the course of five centuries, from time to time
underwent." The number of monks in the priory
at the Reformation was, according to Martine,
thirty-four, besides inferior servants; and of these
thirty-four, " fourteen," says he, " turned preachers,
at certain kirks of the priory, and some continued
about the monastery till their death." The priories
of May, Pittenweem, Locbleven, and Monyrnusk —
of all which monasteries the monks were also
Augustinians — were dependent on the priory of St.
Andrews. The revenues of it in Martine' s time,
consisted, he tells us, in " silver, feu-duties, rent-
ailed teind-bolls, tack teiud-duties, capons, poultry,
and small sums in the name of kain ; the houses
and yards within the precincts of the monastery;
the teinds of the 480 acres of land on the south side
of the town, now called the Prior acres, formerly
the convent's glebe; and the privilege of having
the teiud sheaves led into the priory barn by the
heritors and tenants themselves. The yearly rent,"
he continues, " of the priory is at present as good as
that of the archbishopric, if not better; and within
a few years, at the falling of some tacks, it will be
much better." When the act of council, in 1561,
passed for the assumption of the revenues of all the
church-benefices, that a third part of their value
might be applied to the maintenance of the minis-
ters of religion, and the remaining two-thirds to
defray the expenses of the king's household, the
rental of the priory of St. Andrews was found to be
as follows:
loney,
£2,237 IS
Chald.
Boll.
Wheat,
3S
1
Bear,
182
7
Meal,
114
3
Oats,
151
10
Beans and
pease, .
o
7
The following parish churches belonged to the
priory and paid tithes to it: viz., the Trinity church
of St. Andrews, now the towu-church, Leuehars,
Forgan, Cupar, Dairsie, Lathrisk, Kilgour, Scoonie,
Keunoway, Markinch, Ecclescraig, Fordrrn in the
Meams, Bourthie, Nigvie and Tarlane, Dull in
Athole, Longforgan, Rossie in Gowrie, Inchture,
Fowlis, Portmoak, Abercrornbie, Linlithgow, Had-
dington, Binning, and Preston. The vicarage was
annexed to the archbishopric in 1 606 ; but was as-
signed afterwards by the archbishop to the newly
erected parish of Cameron, that parish having been
detached from the too extensive parish of St. An-
drews, and having no legal maintenance belonging
to it. — The provostiy of Kirkheugh was a convent
of seculars, governed by a prsefectus, or provost,
and unquestionably the most ancient religious esta-
blishment of any in this place. It is believed by
some to have been founded by St. Eegulus himself,
and to be the same with the institution which went
by the name of ' Ecclesia Sanctai Maria? de rape,'
or St. Mary's church on the rock, and of which the
chapel stood on a rock now covered by the sea at
high water, and which still goes by the name of the
Lady-craig, situated near the extremity of the pre-
sent pier. There was also a chapel, called ' Ecclesia
Sanctse Marise,' on the hill above the harbour. — In
June, 1841, her Majesty's Attorney-general, Sir
John Campbell, Kilt., on succeeding Lord Plunkett
as Lord-chancellor of Ireland, was elevated to the
dignity of a Baron of the United Kingdom, by the
title of Baron Campbell of St. Andrews.
ST. ANDREWS. See Deerness, Dundee, Dun
fekmline, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Greenock, Liian
bride.
ANGELS' HILL, a hillock, crowned by a small
circle of stones and a small cairn, in the island
of Iona, Argyleshire. Pennant regards the relics
on it as Druidical. But a superstitious tradition
says that Columba, on arriving at Iona, had a con-
ference on the hillock with angels. Plence its
name, — in Gaelic Cnocnan-Aingeal. See Iona.
ANGUS, the ancient name of Forfarshire:
which see. At a very early period the name Angus
was given to the district of country lying between
the North Esk on the north, and the Tay and Isla
on the south. It is thought by some antiquaries to
have been so called from Angus, a brother of Ken-
neth II., on whom this district was bestowed by
Kenneth after his conquest of the Picts. Others
think that the hill of Angus, a little to the eastward
of Aberlemno church, was, in ancient times, a noted
place of rendezvous on occasions of great public
gatherings ; and that the name was ultimately ex-
tended to the surrounding country. It seems more
probable that the hill itself derived its name from
the district. — The How or Hollow of Angus is a
finely diversified valley in the northern part of For-
farshire, extending above 30 miles in length, from
the western boundary of the parish of Kettins to the
mouth of the North Esk. Its breadth varies from 4
to 6 miles. — The earldom of Angus now belongs in
title to the Duke of Hamilton. It was in the line
of Douglas previous to 1329; and it has been as-
certained by Mr. Riddell that it again came into the
old line of Douglas by a natural son of William,
first Earl of Douglas. — The synod of Angus and
Meams comprehends the presbyteries of Meigle,
Forfar, Dundee, Brechin, Arbroath, and Fordoun.
ANKERVILLE, a small village in the parish
of Nigg, about 6 miles south-west of Tain, Ross-
shire. A fair, called Hugh's fair, is held here on
the third Tuesday of November.
ANNAN, a parish, containing a burgh of the
same name, in the Annandale district of Dumfries-
shire. It is bounded, on the south, by the Solway
frith, and on other sides by the parishes of Cum-
mertrees, Hoddara, Middlebie, Kirkpatrick-Flern-
ing, and Domoek. The Solway frith is in contact
with it over a distance of upwards of three miles;
the river Annan flows southward, along the west side
of the* parish, to the frith ; and the river Kirtle runs
on the boundary with Kirkpatriek-Fleming. The
greatest length of the parish, from north to south, is
8 miles ; the breadth varies from about 2 J to about
4 miles; and the area is about 11,100 imperial
acres. The general surface declines to the south, but
is comparatively flat. Three low parallel ridges ex-
tend southwestward; and between the western and
the middle ones, amid softly featured and very beauti-
ful scenery, runs the river Annan. Woodcockair, an
obtuse conical hill, of about 320 feet of altitude above
sea-level, is situated at the north end of the western
ridge; and Annan hill and Bamkirk, with altitudes
of respectively about 256 and 120 feet, are situated
on the seaboard. The rising grounds and the banks
of the Annan are decorated with wood. The
shores of the frith are flat and sandy. The soil
of most of the parish is very various; but the
greater part is either a fertile loam or a rich clay.
A tract of nearly 2,000 acres on the north-east of
the burgh was formerly a bleak, moorish com-
mon; but is now reclaimed, enclosed, and beau-
tified. There are six principal landowners, —
the most extensive of whom, M'Kenzie of Newbie,
ANNAN.
54
ANNAN.
has a rental of £3,500. Assessed property in 1863,
exclusive of the burgh, £12,352 17s. The chief
mansions are Mount Annan, situated nearly two
miles north of the burgh, and commanding a very
extensive prospect; Warmanbie, about a quar-
ter of a mile south of Mount Annan; Northfield,
still farther south ; and some large handsome houses
in and around the burgh. The high roads from
Dumfries to Carlisle and from Annan to the north
traverse the interior; the Dumfries and Carlisle
railway goes across the south end past the burgh;
and the Caledonian railway overlooks the north-
east, along the opposite bank of the Kirtle. The
village of Bridekirk stands in the north-west.
Population of the parish in 1831, 5,033; in 1861,
5,761. Houses, 1,085.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the sy-
nod of Dumfries. Patron, Johnstone of Aimandale.
Stipend, £279 2s. 4d.; glebe £30. Unappropriated
teinds £191 15s. Schoolmaster's salary, £60 to £70,
with about £40 fees, and £12 other emoluments.
The parish church was built in 1790, and has 1,190
sittings. There is a chapel of Ease in the burgh,
erected in 1842, and called Greenknowe church.
There are a q. s. church at Bridekirk, and a chapel
of Ease at Kirtle. There is a Free church in the
burgh ; the yearly sum raised in connexion with
which in 1865 was £230 13s. 9d. There are in the
burgh also an United Presbyterian church, with an
attendance of 300 ; an Independent chapel in con-
nexion with the Congregational Union, with an at-
tendance of 120; and an Episcopalian chapel in con-
nexion with the Scottish Episcopal church, with an
attendance of 56. The places of education comprise
the parochial school, the academy, and an infant and
industrial school in Annan, endowed schools at Bride-
kirk and Breckenbiels, besides private schools.
ANNAN, a post and market town, a royal
burgh, and the capital of Aimandale, stands in the
parish of Annan, on the left bank of the river Annan,
on the high road from Dumfries to Carlisle, and on
the Dumfries and Carlisle railway, 1J mile north of
Annanfoot, 8f miles west by south of Gretna, 12
south-south-east of Lockerby, 15J south-east by east
of Dumfries, and 79 south by east of Edinburgh.
Its streets are spacious, aiiy, and generally well
paved; its houses are substantially built of good
sandstone, and for the most part are neat and plea-
sant; its environs are studded with many modem,
beautiful dwellings and cottages omees; and its
entire appearance is cleanly, cheerful, and prosper-
ous. The parish church, at the east end of the
town, is a handsome structure, surmounted by an
elegant spire. The town-house, at the other end,
once hacf a spire, but now wants it. The other
places of worship, as well as the parish church, are
in a general view very creditable to the burgh. The
academy, erected in 1820, in Ednam street, is a
large building under the conduct of two masters.
The Dumfries and Carlisle railway crosses the river
on a substantial stone viaduct, and afterwards, at
some distance east of the burgh, traverses a deep cut-
ting. A railway to Cumberland, by means of a
viaduct about a mile long over the Solway, was being
formed in 1865. The Dumfries and Carlisle high-
way approaches the west end of High-street by a
briilge of three large arche3, built in 1824, at the cost
of about £8,000.
A small cotton spinning-mill was established in
1785, and employs about 130 hands. There is also
a power-loom shed, with 112 looms. Hand-loom
weaving, chiefly for Carlisle, is a considerable em-
ploymenf, but a sadly poor one. The curing of
bacon and hams is carried on for the markets of
Liverpool and London. See Dumfries. The ex-
porting of grain, wool, cattle, sheep, horses, and
some miscellaneous goods to Liverpool is a large
occupation; and, together with the market-business
of transferring them from the producers to the ex-
porters, forms a main feature of the industrious stir
of the burgh. A weekly market is held on Thurs-
day; and hiring fairs are held on the first Thursday
of May and the third Thursday of October. The
town has branch-offices of the British Linen Com-
pany's Bank, the Commercial Bank of Scotland, and
the Royal Bank of Scotland, and a fair variety of
other business institutions. It has also a subscrip-
tion library, a mechanic's institute, a savings' bank,
a penny savings' bank, and several benevolent and
religious societies.
The port of Annan is situated at the efflux of the
river, yet has entire identity of interest with the
town, and requires to be noticed here as if it were
strictly adjacent. It bears the name of Annan Water-
foot, or often simply Waterfoot. It is naturally the
mere mouth of the river, sheltered by Bamkirk hill;
but it has been artificially improved by an em-
bankment, which cost £3,000, and by two jetties,
of 140 yards in length. A commodious inn stands
near the jetties; and there are ample facilities of
communication with the town. Two steamers, pre-
vious to the opening of the railway, sailed twice a-
week hence to Liverpool. The aggregate tonnage
belonging to the port is about 6,000 tons ; but only
two or three timber vessels from N. America and the
Baltic, and several small coasting-vessels, trade
regularly to the port. There is a ship-building
yard. The imports from America and the Baltic
consist of timber, deals, lathwood, and tar; and the
imports coastwise consist chiefly of coals, slates,
iron, herrings, salt, and miscellaneous goods.
Annan is conjectured to have received its first
charter from Robert Bruce; and it certainly was
either recognised as a royal burgh, or erected into
one in 1538, by James V. Its subsisting charter
was granted in 1612 by James VI. It is governed
by a provost, 3 bailies, a treasurer, a dean-of-guild,
and 15 councillors. It possesses extensive burgh-
roods and commonties, the latter of which have
been divided, and are in a state of improvement.
Its revenue, arising from rents, fisheries, tolls, and
feu-duties, amounted, in 1833, to £670; its debts
to £4,500; its expenditure in ordinary to £437. In
1863-4, the corporation revenue was about £435.
The real rent of the old royalty was, in 1833, about
£11,861; and of that part of the burghal property
within the parliamentary hounds £8,000. The an-
cient royalty comprehends a district of above 5
miles in length; the parliamentary line has greatly
limited the burgh. The magistrates hold no patron-
age ; and there is no guild or incorporation. Annan
joins with Dumfries, Lochmaben, Sanquhar, and
Kirkcudbright, in sending a member to parliament.
The municipal and the parliamentary constituency
in 1864, was 176. Population of the municipal
burgh in 1841, 4,409; in 1861, 4,620. Houses, 871.
Population of the parliamentary burgh in 1801,
3,473. Houses, 633.
Annan was probably a town before the time of
Eobert Brace, but how long before cannot be con-
jectured. It was frequently plundered and burned,
and always more or less kept in turmoil, during the
wars of the succession and the hottest periods of the
Border forays. In 1298 it was burned by English
invaders; and in 1300 Eobert Bruce either repaired
or built a castle at it for its defence; and this he
occasionally made his residence. In 1332, Edward
Baliol, soon after being crowned at Scone, sum-
moned the Scottish nobility to the castle of Annan
to do him homage; and here Archibald Douglas,
ANNAN.
55
ANNANDALE.
at the head of about 1,000 horsemen, came upon
him by surprise at night, slew his guards aud many
of his chief adherents, and frightened him, half-
naked aud on a horse without saddle or bridle, to take
flight for Carlisle. In 1547, during the protectorate
of Somerset, an English army entered Dumfries-
shire, and met a stubborn resistance from the inha-
bitants of Annan, but eventually captured the
town, and sacked and burned it. In 1548 and
1549, Annan and its neighbourhood were so fear-
fully harassed by incursions of the English that a
sum of £4,000 was levied by government from the
bishops and clergy for the purpose of repairing and
strengthening its defences; and soon after, when
6,000 French auxiliary troops arrived in the Clyde,
the larger portion of them were sent hither to pro-
tect the town and watch the invaders. The castle
had been demolished, at previous English inroads,
and was rebuilt at the time of repairing the de-
fences; and in 1570, it was again demolished by an
English amiy under the Earl of Sussex. But it
was once more rebuilt, and maintained in strength;
and, in 1609, in consequence of the disastrous and im-
poverished circumstances of the townspeople, it was
granted to them by the government to be used as a
place of worship. During the civil wars of the 17th
century, the town was reduced to misery; and soon
after the Restoration, it obtained from parliament,
as a means of improving its condition, the privilege
of collecting customs. In the winter of 1745, the
retreating army of the Pretender, after sustaining
great loss in the waters of the Eden and the Esk,
spent a night in camp at Annan.
The castle stood on the east bank of the river and
west side of the town, on the ground now occupied
by the old churchyard ; but, excepting a small part
of the wall built into the town-house, it was all
obliterated about half a century ago. A deep fosse
once extended, from an elevation about half-a-mile
up the river, past the eastern skirt of the town, to
Annan moss, and seems certainly to have been
formed and maintained for the town's defence
against the English; and some of it can still be
easily traced. An artificial mound, called the moat,
exists near the site of the castle, but separated from
it by a hollow, and is supposed to have been used in
the middle ages as the seat of courts of justice ; and
the elevation at the upper end of the quondam fosse
bears the name of Gallows-Bank, or corruptedly
Gala-Bank, and is believed to have been the place
where condemned persons were executed. — Among
distinguished natives of Annan were Dr. Thomas
Blacklock, the poet, and the Eev. Edward Irving of
London; and among eminent persons connected
with it were Hugh Clapperton, the African travel-
ler, and Mrs. Graham, the wife of the poet of the
Sabbath.
ANNAN (The), a river of Dumfries-shire. It
flows through all the central district of the county
from north to south, and gives to that district the
name of Annandale. It rises among the high
mountains and fells in which the shires of Dumfries,
Lanark, and Peebles, touch each other; but its
chief feeders flow from the southern and western
base of the mountain which gives name to the
Hartfell group, which is in the parish of Moffat, on
the borders of Peebles-shire, and has an elevation of
2,635 feet. These feeders flow south-west, and
successively discharge themselves into a stream
holding a course nearly direct south from Core-
head to Bridgend. At the latter place, the
stream, now of considerable volume, inclines a
little towards the east, and forming the boundary
betwixt the parishes of Kirkpatrick-Juxta and
Moffat, passes the village of Moffat, below which it
receives in succession, a stream descending from
Snawfell, and the Frenchland burn, both coming
from the north-east ; and about 2 J miles below, ia
joined by Moffat water coming from the north-
eastern, and Evan water descending from the north-
western, extremity of the parish. These two tribu-
taries unite with the Annan on opposite sides, at
one point, at an elevation of about 350 feet above
sea-level. Its next important tributary is Warn-
phray water, coming from the north-east, soon after
receiving which its course becomes very meander-
ing, though still bearing southwards. A little
below Applegirth kirk it receives an important tri-
butary from the north-west, in Kinnel water; and a
little farther on, another important one from the
north-east, in the Dryfe. At the southern extre-
mity of Dryfesdale parish, of which it forms the
western boundary, it bends eastward to St. Mungo
kirk. At the south-eastern extremity of St. Mungo
parish, it receives the Milk water, from its junction
with which its course is south-east, to its junction
with the Mein water, in the parish of Hoddam.
From this latter point its course is nearly south to
the town of Annan, whence its estuary sweeps in a
south-west and then south-east direction into the
upper part of the Solway frith. Its total length of
course is about 30 miles. Its general character, in
the lower part of its course, is that of a gently flow-
ing pastoral stream, which is perhaps indicated in
its name Amhann, in Gaelic, signifying the slow-
running water. Allan Cunningham styles it ' the
silver Annan.' In the ballad of ' Annan Water,'
[Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border, vol. iii. p. 284,
Cadell's edn.] it is styled ' a drumlie river;' but this
was during a spate, the tragical consequences of
which are commemorated in the ballad; and the
editor informs us that when
'Annan water's "wading deep,*
that river and the frith into which it falls are the
frequent scenes of tragical accidents. See Solway
Frith.
ANNAN WATEEFOOT. See Annan (Buegh of.)
ANNANDALE, the valley of the river Annan.
It is bounded on the north by Lanarkshire and
Peebleshire ; on the east by Eskdale ; on the south
by the Solway frith; and on the west by Niths-
dale. The open, low, and expanded region of it,
often called the How of Annandale, commences in
the tremendous hollow of Erriekstane, above the
village of Moffat, and has a length of about 25
miles, and in some places a breadth of from 15 to 18
miles. It is veiy extensively carpeted with a deep,
rich, alluvial soil; and is supposed, by distinguished
geologists, to have been long the bed of a great
inland lake. In consequence of its vicinity to Eng-
land, and of its exposure to continual predatory in-
cursions, the greater part of it lay, during the feudal
ages, in a state of commonage and waste; but since
the beginning of last century it has worn a very
different appearance, and it is now one of the most
gardenesque districts in Scotland. It contains a
number of lakes, particularly about Loehmaben;
and it abounds in sandstone, and has a good share
of limestone and some other useful minerals. Popu-
lation in 1831, 33,654; in 1851, 35,141. Houses,
6,333.
Annandale was anciently a part of the Roman
province of Valentia; and it afterwards, by a grant
from David I., soon after his accession to the
throne, in 1124, to Robert de Bras, son of one of
William the Conqueror's Norman barons, with
whom David had formed a friendship while at the
court of Henry I. of England, became a lordship
under the Braces, who took their title from it.
ANNANDALE.
56
ANSTRUTHER-EASTER.
Much confusion prevailed among our historical
writers as to the genealogical relations of the
family of Biuce, until Chalmers, in his ' Caledonia,'
and Kerr, in his ' History of Scotland during the
reign of Robert I.,' pointed out the existing discre-
pancies, and traced the descent of this illustrious
line. Robert de Brus entered England with Wil-
liam, duke of Normandy, in 1066; his son, of the
same name, who is frequently confounded with him,
received a grant of the lordship of Annandale as
above mentioned; but immediately before the battle
of the Standard, in 1138, he renounced his allegi-
ance to David I., on finding himself unable to per-
suade the Scottish king to enter into terms of peace
with England. He died on his paternal English
estate of Gysbum in Yorkshire, in 1141, and was
succeeded in his English estates by his elder son,
the ancestor of the English Braces of Skelton.
Robert Bras, his younger son, is said to have re-
ceived the transfer of Annandale from his father
immediately before the battle of the Standard, and
to have home arms against the English in that en-
gagement. This 3d Robert lived in the reigns of
David I., Malcolm IV., and William the Lion. His
son, the 4th Robert, married Isabel, a natural
daughter of William the Lion. He died in 1191,
and was succeeded in the lordship of Annandale by
his son William, who died in 1215. Robert the 5th
of the name, married Isabel, second daughter of
David, Earl of Huntington, who was the younger
brother of William the Lion, thus introducing the
legitimate royal blood of Scotland into the family of
Bruce. The fifth Robert Bruce died in 1245, and
was succeeded by the 6th of the name, who married
a daughter of Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester.
He opposed the Cumyn influence in the affairs of
Scotland; and at the age of 81 engaged in the com-
petition for the Crown of Scotland; but ultimately
resigned his rights in favour of his son Robert, Earl
of Carrick. He died in 1295. His son accompa-
nied Edward of England to Palestine in 1269, and
soon after his return, married Margaret, Countess
of Carrick, in her own right, by whom he had five
sons and seven daughters. The eldest son of this
marriage was The Bruce.
About' the year 1371, upon the demise of David
II., Annandale fell into the hands of Randolph,
Earl of Moray, regent during the minority of
David; and, with the hand of his sister Agnes, it
went to the Dunbars, Earls of March. After their
forfeiture, it fell to the Douglases, who lost it by
the same fate. It now belongs chiefly to the Earl
of Hopetoun. It formerly gave the title of Marquis
to the gallant border-family of Johnstone. The
lineal heirship of this title became extinct, on the
death of George, 3d marquis, in 1792; and is
claimed by Sir F. Johnstone of AVesterhall, Bart.
The famous Ben Jonson was the descendant of an
Annandale family, and was really not a Jonson,
but a Johnstone.
Lochmaben castle was the principal fort in An-
nandale, and was deemed almost impregnable.
From having been a Roman province, this district
abounds with Roman stations and antiquities.
Part of Severus's wall, the camps of Birrens and
Branswark, and the remains of a great military
road, are still visible in it. The ruins of the large
quadrangular fortress of Auchincass, on Even water,
once the seat of the regent, Randolph, cover an
acre of ground, and still convey an idea of the
strength and extent of the building. The castles of
Hoddam and of Comlongan are also in tolerable
pres'-rvation. See Dumfries-shire, and Lochmaben.
ANNANDALE'S BEEF -STAND. See Erick-
stane-Biue.
ANNAT (The), a rivulet in the parish of Kil-
madock, Perthshire. It rises in a hill in the north-
west comer of the parish, and runs into the Teith
about a mile above Doune. It is remarkable for
numerous cascades.
ANNISTON. See Inverkeilor.
ANNOCK (The), a small river of Renfrewshire
and Ayrshire. It issues from the White Loch in
the parish of Mearns, and flows south-westward,
past Stewarton, to a confluence with Irvine Water,
a little above the town of Irvine. It receives the
Swinsey, the Corsehill, and the East bums at the
town of Stewarton, and receives the Glazart at
Water-meetings, 4 miles farther on; and it has al-
together a course of about 14 miles.
ANN'S (St.) See Glasgow.
ANSTRUTHER-EASTER, a parish, burgh,
and post, market, and sea-port town on the south
coast of Fifeshire. The parish is strictly co-exten-
sive with the burgh, and has no landward district.
It is bounded, on the south, by the frith of Forth;
on the west by Anstruther- Wester from which it is
separated by the Dreel bum ; on the north, by the
landward part of the parish of Kilrenny ; and on the
east, by the fishing-town of Cellardyke. The shore
is nigged and rocky; and a small bay, with safe
and commodious harbour, washes the town. Pre-
vious to the year 1634, Anstruther -Easter was
in the parish of Kilrenny, yet contained the resi-
dence of the minister, who therefore was styled the
minister of Anstrather-Easter; and in that year it
was constituted a parish of itself, and got a church
of its own. It is in the presbytery of St. Andrews,
and synod of Fife. Patron, Baird of Elie. Stipend,
£131 15s. from variously the Exchequer, and
a grant of part of the bishop's rents, and some
money mortified for that purpose ; glebe, £25.
Schoolmaster's salary, £5 6s. 8d., with from £40 to
£50 fees. The manse is a curious building, erected
in 1590, by James Melville, nephew of the cele-
brated Andrew Melville, and then the minister of
Kilrenny. The parish church is the original one
built in 1634. It has a spire, and was repaired in
1834, and. contains 750 sittings. There is a Free
church ; and the yearly sum raised in connexion
with it in 1865 was £318 4s. ljd. There are also
an United Presbyterian church, a Baptist chapel,
an Independent chapel connected with the Congre-
gational Union, and an Independent chapel not so
connected.
The town of Anstrather-Easter stands closely
adjacent to the towns of Anstruther- Wester, and
Cellardyke; and the three look to be one narrow
town, stretching along the shore.' It was erected
into a royal burgh by James VI., in 1583; and
once held' of the family of Anstruther. It is
governed by a council of 9, including 3 bailies, and
a treasurer. The revenue in 1833 was £78; ex-
penditure, £93; debt, £485; and in 1851-2, the re-
venue was £389 8s. 4d. The only taxes levied are
the government cess, and the customs and shore-
dues. The value of assessed property in 1865 was
£3,880. A good harbour is here ; and a new and more
commodious one was, with aid of a giant from the
Exchequer, about to be formed in 1865. In 1710,
Anstruther, which formerly was a creek of Kirk-
caldy, was made a port, and a custom-house estab-
lished here. In 1753, a new quay was built; and,
to defray the expense, an act of parliament was
procured laying a tax of two pennies Scots upon
every pint of ale brewed or sold in the burgh. In
1768, the tonnage belonging to Anstrather-Easter
was 80 tons; in 1793, it was 1,400; and in 1850,
it was 2,135 tons. There is some coasting-trade.
The principal articles of export are grain and po-
ANSTRUTHER-WESTER.
57
ANTONINUS' WALL.
tatoes, and salted cod. A weekly corn-market is
held on Friday; and fairs are held on the first Tues-
day after the 11th of April, on the 5th day of July,
and on the 12th day of November. The town has
a meal-mill, a tan-work, a brewery, a rope and sail-
work, a remarkable number and variety of shops, an
office of the National Bank of Scotland, one of the
Clydesdale Bank, and one of the Commercial Bank.
Tlie Leven and East of Fife railway connects An-
struther with the North British at Thornton. Pro-
jects were concocted during the heat of the railway
excitement, to form two lines of railway from An-
strutber harbour, — the one by way of Cellardyke,
Kilrenny, Crail, Kingsbarns, and Boarhill, to St.
Andrews, — and the other by way of Pittenweem,
St. Monance, Elie, Earlsferry, Kilconquhar, Colins-
burgb, Newimn), Largo, Leven, Kennoway, and
Cameron-Bridge, to a junction with the Edinburgh
and Northern railway either near Thornton or at or
near Markinch; and the latter project, after long
delay, came to be virtually realized in the Leven
and East of Fife scheme. Anstruther joins with
Anstruther- Wester, Crail, Cupar, Kilrenny, Pitten-
weem, and St. Andrews, in returning a member to
parliament. The parliamentary and the muni, con-
stituency in 1865, was S7 and 73. Anstruther-Easter
is the birth-place of the Rev. Dr. Chalmers, and of
Professor Tennant of St. Andrews, who has sung
the humours of ' Anster Fair ' with excellent jocu-
larity, and a genius worthy of a higher subject. It
also claims for its own the famous Maggie Lawder
of song. Population in 1831, 1,007 ; in 1861, 1,155.
Houses, 195.
ANSTRUTHER-WESTER, a small parish, con-
taining a royal burgh of the same name, on the south
coast of Fifeshire. It has a very irregular fonn.
It contains about 600 acres of arable land, and about
9 or 10 acres of common, on which the burgesses
have the privileges of pasturage and of casting turf.
It is bounded on the south by the frith of Forth,
along which it extends for about half-a-mile; on
the east by Anstruther-Easter ; on the north by
Cambee and Kilrenny; and on the west by Pitten-
weem. In the rivulet which divides the two An-
struthers, it is said there was once a consider-
able salmon-fishery, whence the amis of the town,
bearing three salmon crossed, are supposed to be
derived. Toward the end of last century, the aver-
age rent of land in the parish was from 21s. to 30s.
per acre; and in 183S it was £3 10s. At the west
end of the town there is a large mound, called the
Chesterhill, on which was formerly a fine spring.
South-east of the town, and 6 miles distant from it,
in the mouth of the frith of Forth, is the Isle of
May; which, after the desolation of the abbey of
Pittenweem, was generally supposed to belong to
the parish of Anstruther-Wester, and in conse-
quence was annually visited by the minister of An-
struther-Wester, while it was inhabited by 14 or
15 families. But it is also claimed as belonging to
Crail parish. See Mat. Population of the parish
of Anstruther-Wester in 1831, 430 ; in 1861, 438.
Houses, 69. Assessed property in 1865, ±,'3,084
Is. 6d.
This parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrews,
and synod of Fife. Patron, Sir W. C. Anstruther,
Bart. Stipend, £142 5s. 6d. ; glebe, £22 10s.
Schoolmaster's salary now is £45, with about £75
fees. The parish church appears, from the remains
of a large choir, and the Gothic structure of the
steeple, to be a very ancient building; but it has
often been repaired. This parish was anciently a
vicarage belonging to the priory of Pittenweem.
The town of Anstruther-Wester was created a
royal burgh by Tames VI., in 1587. The affairs of
the burgh were managed by a council of 15, includ-
ing 3 bailies, and a treasurer; but, in consequence
of an irregularity in the election of 1851, which was
set aside by the Court of Session, it is now under
three managers of their appointment. The burgh pro-
perty consists of the town's common, customs, and
shore-dues, teinds of the white-fish, and herrings
brought into the harbour, and the iron-stone and
sea-ware found on the shore. Revenue in 1832, £69;
expenditure, £79. Revenue in 1864-5, about £140.
The magistrates and minister have the presenta-
tion of a bursar to the United college of St. An-
drews. The parliamentary and municipal constitu-
ency in 1864 was 25. "The town of Anstruther,
and many others on this coast," says the Rev. James
Forrester, in the first Statistical account of the parish,
in 1793, " suffered much in the civil wars, in the
reign of Charles I., both by sea and land. They
were zealous covenanters, and there are few old in-
habitants of the parish who do not talk of some re-
lations that went to the battle of Kilsyth, in 1645,
and were never afterwards heard of. Anstruther
shared the fate of its neighbours, about the year
1670, by an inundation of the sea, which destroyed
or choked up the harbour, washed away the bul-
warks, and rendered many of the houses unsafe to
dwell in. An inundation of a similar kind happened
about the end of last century, when about a third of
the town seems to have been destroyed. A long
street, called the Fore-street, was totally destroyed ;
scarce a vestige of it now remains. The rock on
which the town-house once stood, is covered by the
sea every spring-tide, and every tide the sea washes
the street, where the principal houses of the burgh
were situated. The old people date the decay of
the towns on this coast to the Union with England.
It is evident that that event did undoubtedly give
a great shock to the trade of these towns. Their
staple commodities were malt, herrings, and cod.
Before the Union, there were 24 ships belonging to
Easter and Wester Anstruther, and 30 boats em-
ployed in the the fishery; in 1764. there were only
two ships, each 40 tons burden, and three fishing-
boats belonging to Anstruther-Easter, and one of
20 tons, and two fishing-boats to Anstruther- Wes-
ter." Anstruther-Wester is united to Anstruther-
Easter by a good bridge over the Dreel bum. Pop-
ulation in 1841, 339; in 1861, 367. Houses, 56.
ANTONINUS' WALL, an ancient Roman work
extending from the Clyde to the Forth. In the
year 78 of the Christian era, Agricola took the com-
mand in Britain ; but he did not enter North Britain
till the year 81. The years 79 and 80 were spent
in subduing the tribes to the south of the Solway
frith hitherto uneonquered ; and in the year 81
Agricola entered on his fourth campaign by march-
ing into North Britain along the shores of the Sol-
way frith, and oveiTunning the mountainous region
which extends from that estuary to the friths of
Clyde and Forth, the Glotta and Bodotria of Tacitus.
He finished this campaign by raising a line of forts
on the narrow isthmus between these friths, so that,
as Tacitus observes, " the enemies being removed
as into another island," the country to the south
might be regarded as a quiet province. See Intro-
duction. Little is known of the history of North
Britain from the time of Agricola's recall till the
year 13S, when Antoninus Pius assumed the impe-
rial purple. That good and sagacious emperor was
distinguished by the care which he took in selecting
the fittest officers for the government of the Roman
provinces; and his choice, for that of Britain, fell
on Lollius Urbieus, a man who united talents for
peace with a genius in war. After putting down a
revolt of the Brigantes in South Britain in the year
ANWOTH.
58
APPIN.
139, this able general marched northward the fol-
lowing year to the friths, between which he bnilt a
wall of earth on the line of Agricola's forts. Capi-
tulinus, who flourished during the third centmy, is
the first writer who notices this wall, and states
that it was built in the reign of Antoninus Pius, but
he gives no exact description of it. The wall or
rampart extended from Caeridden on the frith of
Forth to Dunglass on the Clyde. Taking the
length of this wall from Old-Kilpatrick, on the
Clyde, to Caeridden on the Forth, its extent would
be 39,726 Roman paces, which agree exactly with
the modern measurement of 36 English miles, and
620 yards. This rampart, which was of earth, and
rested on a stone foundation, was upwards of 20
feet high, and 24 feet thick. Along the whole ex-
tent of the wall there was a vast ditch or prceten-
tura on the outward or north side, which was gene-
rally 20 feet deep, and 40 feet wide, and which,
there is reason to believe, might be filled with water
when occasion required. This ditch and rampart
were strengthened at both ends, and throughout its
whole extent, by one and twenty forts, three being
at. each extremity, and the remainder placed be-
tween, at the distance of 3,554J yards, or something
more than 2 English miles from one another; and it
has been clearly ascertained that these stations were
designedly placed on the previous fortifications of
Agricola. Its necessaiy appendage, a military road,
ran behind the rampart from end to end, for the use
of the troops, and for keeping up the usual communi-
cation between the stations or forts. From inscrip-
tions on some of the foundation-stones, which have
been dug up, it appears that the second legion, with
detachments from the sixth and the twentieth
legions, and some auxiliaries, executed these vast
military works, equally creditable to their skill and
perseverance. Dunglass, near the western extre-
mity, and Blackness near the eastern extremity of
the rampart, afforded the Eomans commodious har-
bours for their shipping, such as they enjoyed,
while they remained in North Britain, at Cramond.
This wall is called in the popular language of the
country Grime's Dyke, the etymology of which has
confounded antiquarians and puzzled philologists.
In British speech and in the Welsh language of the
present day the word grym signifies strength ; but
whether the appellation which the wall now re-
ceives is derived from such a root seems doubtful.
Certain it is, that the absurd fiction of Fordun,
Boyce, and Buchanan, who derive the name from a
supposititious person of the name of Grime and his
Scots having broke through this wall, has long been
exploded, with many other fictions of the same
authors. See Kirkintilloch and FjLlkirk.
ANWOTH, a parish on the coast of Kirkcud-
brightshire. It comprises the peninsula between
Wigton bay and Fleet bay, and has its extreme
length thence to the north. Its post-town is Gate-
house. It is about 6J miles long, and 3J broad. It
is bounded on the north and east by the parish of
Girthon, from which it is divided by the river Fleet;
and on the west by the parish of Kirkmabreclc.
The sea-shore is generally flat and rocky, though
in one place it is bold and elevated. Towards the
northern part of the parish, the surface becomes
broken and barren, rising into numerous hills of
Binall elevation. Along the banks of the Fleet, and
to some distance from it, there is a considerable
quantity of natural and planted wood. The total
area is about 9,000 acres, of which about one-third
is arable. The Fleet is navigable for small vessels
as far as Gatehouse : see article Fleet. The most
remarkable hill is Caimharrah, which is situated
partly in this parish, and partly in Kirkma-
breck. It is elevated above the sea about 1,500
feet ; and is the highest ground in this part of the
country, Caimsmuir excepted. It commands an
extensive view of the adjacent country, the shire
of Wigton, the Isle of Man, a part of Cumber-
land, and even of the high land on the coast of Ire-
land. There is a lead mine on the estate of Eusco.
The mansions are Eusoo, Ardwall, Eirkelauch, and
Cardoness. The village of Anwoth stands on the
Fleet, opposite Gatehouse, and is connected with
that town by a bridge, and often considered as part
of it under the name of Fleet-street. Population of
the village in 1861, 377. The road from Gatehouse
to Newtown-Stewart passes along the shore. There
are two old buildings in the parish, the tower of
Eusco, and the castle of Cardoness. Both these fort-
alices stand on the banks of the Fleet; the former
about 2-J miles above where the river ceases to be
navigable, and the latter 1 mile below that point,
on a tongue of land, looking towards the bay at the
mouth of the river. The Eev. Samuel Eutherford,
author of a valuable volume of Letters on Practical
Eeligion, and various popular devotional pieces, was
minister of this parish; and a monument, in the
form of an Egyptian obelisk, 56 feet in height, and
wholly composed of granite, was erected in 1842 to
his memory by his admirers, on a hill a little to the
north-east of the farm-house of Boreland. This
monument was overwhelmed by a stroke of light-
ning in 1847, and rebuilt in 1851 ; and it is con-
spicuous to a great distance, and serves as a land-
mark to navigators in the neighbouring seas. The
parish churchyard contains a monument to the
memory of John Bell of Whiteside, a Covenanter
and native of the parish, who met a martyr's death
at the hands of Grierson of Lag, in 1685, by being
shot at Kirkconnell Moor in Tongueland. Anwoth
and the Fleet have recently been sung in the admir-
able production entitled " Lays of the Kirk and
Covenant." Population in 1831, 830 ; in 1861, 899.
Houses, 149. Assessed property in 1843, £3,717 ;
in 1864, £5,223.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcudbright,
and synod of Galloway. Patron, Sir William Max-
well, Bart. Stipend, £247 10s. 7d.; glebe, £10.
Unappropriated teinds, £41 18s. Id. There are two
parochial schools; salaries, £45 and £25. The
parish church is situated about a mile from Gate-
house. It was built in 1826, and has 400 sittings.
There is an United Presbyterian church in the vil-
lage of Anwoth, but it takes its popular designation
from Gatehouse. There is a Free church school.
AONACHAN, a post-office station, subordinate
to Fort Augustus, Inverness-shire.
APP, a small stream of the parish of Ballantrae,
Ayrshire. It flows about 6 miles south-westward,
along Glenapp, into Loch Eyan.
APPIN, an extensive district of Argyleshire,
above 50 miles in length, and from 10 to 15 broad;
comprehending the Airds, the strath of Appin, Glen
Duror, Glen derail, Kingerloch, and Glencoe; ex-
tending along the eastern side of Loch Linnhe, and
belonging ecclesiastically to the parish of Lismore
and Apnin. See Lismore. Appin is one of the
most interesting districts in the Highlands; present-
ing a deeply indented and finely diversified coast
sprinkled with islands; while the interior is inter-
sected with deep glens and rushing streams, and
rich in the most magnificent varieties of mountain
and lake scenery. Appin was the country of the
Stuarts, " the unconquered foes of the Campbell," in
feudal times, but whom "the greedy Campbells"
ultimately overmastered. The Ettrick Shepherd,
in a fine ballad entitled ' The Stuarts o' Appin,' thus
alludes to its departed glories:
APP1N.
59
APPLECROSS.
* I sing of a land that was famous of yore,
Tin- land uf Green Appin, tho ward of the flood;
Where every grey cairn that broods over tho shore,
Marks a grave of tho royal, the. valiant, or good;
The land where tho strains of grey Ossian were lramed,—
The land of fair Sehna and reipu of Fingnl, —
And late of a race, that with tears mast bo named,
The Noblo Clan Stuart, the bravest of all.
Oh- lion, an Reil and the Stuarts of Appin!
The gallant, devoted, old Stuarts of Appin!
Their glory is o'er,
For the clan is no more,
And tho Sassenach sings on the hills of green Appin."
Appin contains large quantities of both natural
and planted woods. Lead ore occurs on the pro-
perty of Minefield; and extensive quarries of beau-
tiful roofing-slate are worked at the foot of Glencoe.
The landowners of Appin are Campbell of Ardna-
murchan, Cameron of Fassfern, Dowuie of Appin-
House, M'Donald of Glencoe, Stuart of Ballachulish,
Stewart of Ardshiel, Stewart of Fasnacloieh, Stew-
art of Achnacone, Fleming of Kinlochlaich, M'Call
of Minefield, and M'Donald of Dalness. The most
remarkable antiquity is a square tower, situated on
a rock in the sound between Appin and Lismore,
and built bv Duncan Stewart of Appin as a kind of
hunting-lodge for King James IV. Excellent faci-
lities of communication and traffic are enjoyed by
means of the Glasgow and Inverness steamers.
There is a post-office for the district; and there are
four villages, Port-Appin, Tayribbi, Portnacroish,
and Laroch. The Appin parish church is situated
in the Strath of Appin, and has 400 sittings. There
is a government church at Duror, for the districts
of Duror and Glencoe. There are two Episcopalian
chapels, the one at Portnacroish, and the other near
the slate quarries, but both served by one minister.
There is also in Appin an Independent place of
worship, connected with the Congregational Union;
and there is a Free church for Appin and Lismore,
whose annual money proceeds in 1853 amounted to
£32 lis. 4id.,— in 1865, to £270 17s. 2d. See Aihds,
Glexcoe, " Ballachulish, Linnhe, Creean, and
Levex. '
APPIN, a beautiful vale, in the parish of Dull,
Perthshire. See Abekfeldy and Dull.
APPLEBY LOCH. See Glassekton.
APPLECROSS, an extensive parish, on the west
coast of Ross-shire. It comprises all the country
between Lochearron and Loch Torriden; and its
post town is Lochearron. It formed part of the
' parish of Lochearron till 1726; and the name of
Applecross -was then for the first time given to
it; but its name among the natives is Comrich
or Comaraich. It has an irregular outline and
is intersected by arms of Lochearron and Loch
Torriden, and by other sea-lochs and bays. The
extent of sea-coast, in a direct line, is upwards of
20 miles; but following the shore in all its curves
and windings, it cannot be under 90 miles. Though
the coast is in some places high and rocky, yet, in
many parts, it is flat and sandy; and the general
character of the whole — as of most districts of old
red sandstone formation, which is the prevalent
geological character of the parish — is monotonous
and dreary. The course of the tides is all along
from the north. The general appearance of the
parish is rocky and mountainous ; yet amidst these
hills, covered only with wild coarse grasses and
heath, and indescribably dreary to the sight, occur
valleys, both beautiful and fertile, but in many in-
stances almost inaccessible. Towards the close of
last century there was neither public road nor
bridge from one extremity of it to the other, and the
traveller was guided by the season of the year, in
determining what course to take over the rugged
bills, rapid waters, ind deep and marshy moors of
this district; but this state of things is now greatly
amended. A good and direct road runs between
Applecross and Sbieldag on Loch Torriden, a dis-
tance of 13 miles; and there are also good roads
from the village of Lochearron, at the head of Loch-
canon both to Applecross, a distance of 20 miles,
and to Shicldag, a distance of 15. Grazing-farms
are numerous but small. The number of acres
under cultivation does not exceed 2,000, while
nearly 300 square miles are unfit for cultivation.
Black cattle is the great article from which the
fanner principally derives his emolument and the
landlord his rent. Herring shoals occasionally fre-
quent the bays, creeks, and harbours, of this dis-
trict. The rivers, though small, are very rapid,
and abound with trout; the stream of Firdon, and
the river of Applecross, contain salmon; there are
salmon-fishings at Torriden and Balgie; and fishing
is much pursued on the coasts of this parish. In
the district of Kishom there is a copper-mine, which
Williams, in his ' Mineral Kingdom,' considered as
equally rich with any in Great Britain. On the
south side of the hay of Applecross, close by the
shore, there is a limestone quarry of an excellent
quality. There are some natural woods of fir,
birch, and hazel, in different parts of the parish.
The ordinary fuel is peat. There are three proprie-
tors: viz. Mackenzie of Applecross, the principal
heritor, Mackenzie of Seaforth, and Sir F. Mac-
kenzie of Gairloch, Bart. " Amidst the surround-
ing bleakness and desolation of the sandstone moun-
tains of this district," say the Messrs. Anderson, in
their excellent Guide to the Highlands, " the bay
and homesteads of Applecross have ever been as an
oasis in the desert ; and hence they were early fixed
upon by the monks of Iona as a proper site for a
supplementary monastery, whence to assail the
darkness of 'roving clans and savage barbarians'
by the light of learning and religion. At its princi-
pal natural haven, Camus-Fen-ah, or the Boat Cove,
the land was claimed for the ' Prince of Peace,'
by the erection of a large stone cross, still standing ;
several other crosses lined the approach towards the
sacred buildings, and one curiously carved, of a very
antique pattern, occurs in the churchyard. . . .
The house of Applecross is a fine old and high
chateau ; and the plain about it not only bears good
com crops, and some magnificent trees and young
plantations, but in the garden the finest dahlias,
fuschias, geraniums, and hydrangeas flower, and
are left in the open ground all the year over; while,
at the same time, in the higher grounds, the vege-
tation is quite arctic, and the species few, and even
the hardy juniper becomes a short prostrate plant,
instead of an upright bush. In the low strath, the
air feels always mild, though moist; the light, in
some places, is so subdued that the bat flies about
at noonday ; but nothing can surpass the beauty of
the tints on the adjoining hill-slopes, or the gran-
deur and variety of the sea-coast views, especially
of the mountains in the Isle of Skye." Population
in 1831, 2,892; in 1861, 2,544. Houses, 568. As-
sessed property in 1860, £3,616.
This parish is in the presbytery of Lochearron
and S3Tiod of Glenelg. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£158 6s. 5d; glebe £13. Schoolmaster's salary, £35,
with £4 10s. fees. The parish church was built in
1S17, and has 600 sittings. A government church
was built in 1827 at Shieldag, 12 miles from the
parish church ; and the minister there preaches also,
once a month, at Kishom, 10 miles from Shieldag, in
a place of worship built by the inhabitants. There
is a Free church at Applecross; attendance, 300;
3Tearly sum raised in 1865, £142 15s. Id. There is
also a Free church preaching station in the open
APPLEGARTH.
60
ARBIRLOT.
air at Shieldag; attendance, from 600 to 1,200;
yearly sum raised in 1853, £10. There are two
Assembly's schools, and two other schools.
APPLEGAETH, or Applesirth, a parish in the
centre of Annandale, Dumfries -shire. Its post-
town is Lockerby. It is hounded by the parishes
of Wamphray, Hutton, Dryfesdale, Lochrnaben, and
Johnstone. The river Annan runs along the west-
ern boundary, and the Dryfe runs through the in-
terior. The greatest length of the parish, from
north to south, is about 6 miles ; and the greatest
breadth is about 5. The southern district is low
and level; about two-thirds of the entire surface is
arable; and much of the rest is hill pasture. The
soil on the low grounds is fertile. The highest
ground between the Annan and the Dryfe is Din-
woodie Hill, which has an elevation of 736 feet
above the level of the sea; and the highest east
of the Dryfe is Adderlaw, which has an elevation
of 638 feet. There are seven heritors and three
mansions, Jardine-Hall, Balgray, and Hook-House,
— the first famous in connexion with the distin-
guished naturalist Sir William Jardine, Bart. The
Caledonian railway and the Edinburgh and Carlisle
turnpike traverse the parish, and the former has two
stations in it at Nethercleuch and Dinwoodie. Pop-
ulation in 1831,999; in 1861, 935. Houses, 161.
Assessed property in I860, £8,316.
This parish is in the presbytery of Lochmaben
and synod of Dumfries. Patrons, Johnstone of An-
nandale and Sir W. Jardine, Bart. Stipend, £250
5s.; glebe, £10 10s. Unappropriated teinds, £244.
There are two parochial schools. Salaries of the
schoolmasters are £40, with nearly £30 fees, and
£30, with about £15 fees. There is also a ladies'
school. The parish church was built in 1760, and
repaired in 1822, and has 380 sittings. It is gener-
ally supposed that there have been two old parishes
successively annexed to Applegarth, viz. Sibbaldbie
and Dinwoodie, or Dinwiddie. It is not certain,
however, whether Dinwoodie was ever a distinct
parish or not; it rather appears to have been a
chapelry to Applegarth. Sibbaldbie was a distinct
parish, and was annexed in 1 609. There are still
some remains of its church. Chalmers, in his Cale-
donia, informs us that on the 7th July, 1300, Ed-
ward I., who was then at Applegarth, on his way
to the siege of Caerlaverock, made an oblation at
the altars of St. Nicholas and Thomas a Becket, in
Applegarth church. There are no authentic traces
of this church now visible. There is a noble ash-
tree in the church-yard of Applegarth, upwards of
14 feet in circumference near the root.
APPLETEEE - HALL, a village in the parish
of Wilton, Roxburghshire. Population in 1851, 75.
See Wilton.
AQUAHAPvNEY. See Crudes.
AQUHORTIES. Sse Inverurt.
ABASAIG, or Arisaig, a district, a promontory,
and a village, in the parish of Ardnamurchan, In-
verness-shire. The district is on the west coast of
the mainland, between Loch Morar and Loch Aylort,
and has a rugged, sterile, and mountainous charac-
ter. The promontory lies opposite the isle of Eig,
at the distance of 6J miles, between Lochnagaul on
the north and Lochnanuagh on the south. The. vil-
lage stands on the north shore of Lochnagaul, at a
brief distance from the sea; and consists of only a
few scattered houses, yet has a post office and a
large inn, and is a place of importance to the dis-
trict. Fairs are held on the Saturday in June before
Fort- William, and on the third Tuesday of October.
The Glasgow and Isle of Skye steamers call regu-
larly in the vicinity. A regular ferry was formerly
maintained to Skye; aud passenger boats can still
be had. An excellent and beautiful road leads from
the village to Fort- William. A neat Eoman Catho-
lic chapel, and Arisaig Cottage, the residence of
Lord Cranstoun, are in the vicinity. A schoolhouse,
used as a place of worship in connexion with the
Establishment, stands at Ardnafuaran.
AEAY (The), or Art, in Gaelic Aoreidh, a
small but beautiful stream flowing into Loch Fyne,
between the town of Inverary and the neighbour-
ing hill of Dunyqueaich, Argyleshire. It rises near
Loch Awe and flows south. Its course is about 9
miles in length, over a rocky bed, and frequently
under rugged cliffs, or between banks finely wooded
with oak and birch. The road from Inverary to
Oban skirts its course throughoirt its whole length ;
and the road around the head of Loch Fyne to Caim-
dow is carried over the stream, at its confluence
with the loch, by a bridge. The first striking scene
upon this stream, tracing its course upwards, is the
romantic fall of Carlonan linn, which occurs at a
point where the river is shut in by thick woods and
rocky banks. About 2J miles from Inverary is an-
other considerable fall ; and half-a-mile farther is
the finest cascade in the river, the fall of Lenach-
Gluthin, where the stream rushes, " with many a
shock," over a broken and precipitous rock. It is
supposed that the Aray takes its name from these
falls, Aoreidh, in Gaelic, signifying ' unsmooth.'
Skrine calls it 'the furious Aray.' As we ascend
the glen of the Aray, the stream " changes temper "
and dwindles into a bum flowing between bare
mountain-ridges. Gilpin, who passed through Glen
Aray in 1776, was greatly delighted with the forest
scenery here.
AEBEADIE, or New Banchory, a village, with
a post office, in the parish of Banchory-Ternan,
Kincardineshire. The old village of Banchory, in
the vicinity, has been displaced by a station, on the
Deeside railway. The new village was founded
between the years 1805 and 1810, and has had
much prosperity. It is now pretty generally
known, as a post-town and otherwise, by the simple
name of Banchory. It stands on the river Dee, and
on the road from Aberdeen to Braemar, 18 miles
west-south-west of Aberdeen. It is a place of much
neatness and beauty, and in spite of distance, is a
favourite resort of the Aberdonians. It contains a
Dissenting place of worship, two schools, three
inns, and offices of the Union Bank of Scotland, and
the North of Scotland Bank. Population of the vil-
lage in 1861, 681.
jVEBIGLAND. See Kjrkbean.
AEBIELOT, in old writings Abereixiot, a parish
on the coast of Forfarshire. Its post-town is Ar-
broath. It is about 4 miles in length, and 3 in
breadth ; and is bounded on the north by the parishes
of St. Vigeans and Carmylie ; on the east by Ar-
broath; on the south by the sea; and on the west
by Panbride parish. The extent of sea-coast is about
3 miles, for the most part flat and sandy. The
greater part of this parish is gently undulated; yet
the hills are neither veiy high nor rocky, but are in
general green, aud capable of cultivation. The
superficial area is about 500 acres, and about one-
fifth of it is uncultivated. The average rent of the
cultivated land is 18s. per acre. The principal crops
raised are oats and barley; but a considerable quan-
tity of wheat is also grown. In the year 1790, there
were 97 acres sown with linseed, which in general
succeeded well; but this branch of farming does not
now attract much attention. The water of Elliot
runs through this parish from north-west to south-
east, but has its source in the parish of Carmylie,
about 3 miles from the village of Arbirlot. It wa3
once noted for trouts of a peculiar relish. See El-
ARBORY HILL.
61
ARBROATH.
liot (The). Kelly castle, which is built upon a
roek on the side of this stream, is seen to great ad-
vantage on the road betwixt Arbroath and Arbirlot.
This succeeded a very ancient mansion of the Mow-
brays; was erected by one of the Ouchterlonys;
passed in 1615 to the Irvines, — in 1679 to the Earl of
Panmure; and was recently restored and adorned, at
great cost, by the Earl of Dalhousie. The village of
Arbirlot stands on Elliot Water, in the vicinity of
the castle. A cattle fair is held here on the second
Wednesday of November, but it is of small note.
Population of the village in 1841, 77. There is an-
other village, called Bonnington, about 2 miles to
the west. There are three meal-mills and a (lax-
mill on the Elliot, and there is a bleaching-work at
Wormy-hills near its mouth. At Wormy-hills also
is a mineral well of some repute. A road is said to
have been made through part of this parish by the
Scottish historian, Hector Boethius ; and it still
bears his name in the corrupted form of Hecken-
bois-path. The Arbroath and Dundee railway and
the Arbroath and Dundee highway pass along the
coast. The whole parish is the property of the Earl
of Dalhousie. Population in 1831, 1,086; in 1861,
960. Houses, 204. Assessed property in 1843,
£6,395 ; in 1865, £9,661 6s.
This parish is in the presbytery of Arbroath, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £184 4s. 5d.; glebe, 4 acres. Schoolmas-
ter's salary is £50, with £14 fees. The parish
church was built in 1832, and has 639 sittings.
There is a Free church ; the yearly sum raised in
connexion with which in 1865 was £174 3s. OJd.
There are also a parochial library, a savings' bank,
and two private schools.
AEBORY HILL, a conical hill, of about 500 ft.
in height above the level of the adjacent Clyde, in
the parish of Lamington, Lanarkshire. Certain cu-
rious old remains occur on the top of it, which some
persons suppose to have been a fort of the ancient
Britons, and others suppose to have been a Druidi-
cal place of worship. See Lajitngton.
ARBROATH, or Aberbrothwick, a parish, con-
taining a royal burgh of the same name, on the coast
of Forfarshire. It is bounded on the north by St.
Vigeans parish ; on the east by the German ocean ;
on the south and west by Arbirlot parish. The ex-
tent of sea-coast is about li mile; the superficial
area is 1,820 English acres. Average rent of land,
55s. per acre. Around the town the soil is rich and
fertile; but towards the north-west there is a con-
siderable extent of what "was formerly moor-ground,
the property of the community, and once covered
with fir-plantations, but which having been feued
out is now in a state of cultivation, and interspersed
with villas. The Brothock, or Brothwick, a small
stream rising in the parish of Kirkden, near the
north-west boundary of St. Vigeans parish, flowing
south-east through that parish, and the town of Ar-
broath, and falling into the German ocean after a
course of about 6 miles, gives name to the parish.
The water-power furnished by this stream, and its
application in creating steam-power, have led to the
establishment of numerous manufactures for weav •
ing, spinning, flax-dressing, and bleaching. About
a mile westward of the town is a strong chalybeate
spring. Population in 1831, 6,660; in 1861, 9,847.
Houses, 1,087. Assessed property in 1843, £17,314.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the synod
of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£219 12s. 6d., with a manse. Unappropriated teinds,
£125 12s. lid. There is a permanent assistant
minister, appointed by the kirk session, with a sti-
pend of about £100. The parish church was built
in 1791, and has 1,690 sittings. There is a Chapel of
Ease, called Abbey church, situated in the north-
east corner of the abbey grounds, built in 1797, and
containing 1,281 sittings. There is another Chape]
of Ease, called Ladyloan church, built in 1838.
There are two Free churches, — the East Arbroath
and the High Street: attendance at the former, about
680, — at the latter, 400 ; yearly sum raised in 1865
in connexion with the former, £674 15s. 3d., — in
connexion with the latter, £337 4s. 0^d. There are
three United Presbyterian churches, — called the
North Grimsby-street, the Park-street, and the
Erskine churches,— the first with 572 sittings, the
second with 700, and the third with 850. The other
places of worship are an Independent chapel with
400 sittings, a Baptist meeting-house, and a Glassite
meeting-house. There are also in the town other
two Free churches, called the Inverbrothock and
the Ladyloan, an Original Secession church, an
Episcopalian chapel, a Wesleyan chapel, and a Ro-
man Catholic chapel; but all these stand within the
palish of St. Vigeans. The number of private
schools is about twenty.
The Tows of Arbroath comprises the ancientroyal
burgh of Arbroath, a town extension on the abbey
lands, and a large suburb within St. A'igeans. It is
a market-town, a sea-port, a seat of manufacture,
and an important key-post of railway traffic. It is
17 miles east by north of Dundee ; 12| west by south
of Montrose; 15 south-east of Forfar; 13f south of
Brechin ; and 56 north-north-east of Edinburgh. It
stands along the shore at the mouth of the Broth-
ock, in a small plain surrounded on the west, north,
and east sides by eminences in the form of an am
phitheatre, which command an extensive prospect
of the friths of Tay and Foith, the Lothian hills,
and the elevated parts of Fifeshire. It has greatly
extended in recent times. Formerly it consisted of
one street, nearly a mile in length, ranning north
and south from the sea, and another on the west
side of smaller extent ; both these being intersected
by cross streets. To the eastward, and within the
abbey lands, there are two handsome streets. On
the west side of the Brothock, and within the parish
of St. Vigeans, there are also several neat streets.
Part of the High-street also has a good appearance ;
and many elegant houses adorn other parts of the
town and the suburbs and environs. The place, as
a whole, however, does not look well. Most of the
streets are narrow; many of the houses in the cross
streets are only one story high ; and scarcely any-
thing strikes or particularly pleases the generality
of intelligent strangers, except the imposing ruins of
the abbey. Yet the celebrated Dr. Johnson, who is
nearly as well known to many Scotchmen for his
scornful ride through their country as for all his
good qualities, is pleased to say that he should
scarcely have regretted his journey had it offered
nothing more than the sight of Arbroath.
The town-house, containing a large elegant hall,
a town-clerk's office, a small-debt court room, and
apartments for the meeting of the town council, is a
handsome building, erected in 1806. The prison
and police office, to the west of the town-house, is a
neat structure, erected in 1842. The guild-hall is a
plain building. The trades' hall is a costly struc-
ture, built in 1814. The Arbroath academy is a
chaste building, and has a fine play-ground in front,
and was erected in 1821 at the cost of £1,600. The
parish church itself is not a remarkable building;
but its steeple, which was erected in 1831 at the
cost of £1,300, and is 152 feet high and in the Gothic
style, is singularly elegant. The Episcopalian cha-
pel is a handsome new Gothic edifice, with an ele-
gant spire. Erskine church is a much admired
structure, built in 1851 at the cost of £1,600. The
ARBROATH.
62
ARBROATH.
public hall, for meetings, concerts, &c, with the
museum, was erected in 1865. A beautiful market-
place was erected in 1856, at a cost of about £5,000.
About the year 1736 a few gentlemen of property
engaged at Arbroath in the manufacture of osna-
burghs and brown linens ; and from that time till
now the linen trade has been a chief department of
the town's industiy. In the early years of the pre-
sent century, the competency of machinery to spin
linen yarn, first by water-power and next by steam-
power, was slowly and carefully put to the test in a
flour-mill in the parish of St. Vigeans ; and no sooner
was it fully proved than a sudden and great change
took place in the western environs of the town.
A tract of land, comprising about 35 imperial acres,
lying within St. Vigeans, closely adjacent to the
burgh, and on both sides of the Brothock, " was at
once given off by its proprietor in feus ; and, in an
incredibly short space of time, immense factories
with their towering stalks, and whole streets of
dwelling-houses, were seen to rear their heads where,
only a short time before, the waving corn and the
smiling orchard attracted the eye." The grand rush
of increased business occurred between the years
1820 and 1826, but it was greatly impelled by over-
speculation; and in the latter part of 1825 and the
early part of 1826, it received a tremendous check
in a severe, extensive, and crashing ' crisis.' The
linen manufacture seemed for a moment to be at a
stand; and it went on for a while with faltering pro-
gress and remarkable caution ; yet it by and by got
considerably beyond its former limits, and became
strong and firm as well as great. The number of
spinning-mills in 1833 was 16; and three more were
built before 1842 ; and they altogether give direct
employment to between 1,600 and 1,700 persons.
The weaving of canvas and of brown and bleached
linens has at times employed about 2,000 hand-
looms. There are also bleaching-works, plash-mills,
boating - mills, and callendering establishments.
There are likewise ship-building yards, three found-
eries, and several manufactories of leather, saddlery,
machinery, bone-dust, and other articles. A weekly
market is held on Saturday ; and hiring fairs are
held on the last Saturday of January, on the first
Saturday after Whitsunday, on the Saturday after
the 18th of July, or the 18th itself when that day is
a Saturday, and on the first Saturday after Martin-
mas. The town has offices of the Bank of Scotland,
the British Linen Company's Bank, the Commer-
cial Bank, and the Royal Bank ; all accommodated
in handsome buildings of very recent erection.
The chief inns are the White Hart, the Albion, the
Royal, and the George. Ample communications
are enjoyed through all the Forfarshire railways,
and thence to the north and west and south. Two
weekly newspapers, the Arbroath Guide and the
Saturday Evening Guide, are published on Saturday.
The port of Arbroath is of great antiquity; but
its situation was, in ancient times, more to the east-
ward than at present. The site of the ancient har-
bour is still named the Old Shore-head; and an
agreement is extant between the abbot and burghers
in 1394, concerning the making of the harbour.
Both parties were bound to contribute their propor-
tion; but the largest fell to the share of the abbot,
for which he was to receive an annual tax payable
out of the burgh-roods. A new harbour was built
about the year 1725. It is small, but can be taken
by vessels in a storm, when they ca.nnot enter any
of the neighbouring ports. It is entirely artificial,
but well sheltered from the sea by a long pier erected
in 1788; the inner harbour is secured by wooden
gates. It admits vessels of 200 tons at spring-tides,
but at ordinary tides only vessels of 100 tons can
enter. It was formerly defended by a battery
erected in 1783 ; but this fell into neglect and dila-
pidation, and was eventually removed. A new
harbour and breakwater' under the authority of an
act of parliament, 2° Victoria, cap. 16, was com-
menced in 1841, on an estimated cost of £40,000;
and this harbour admits ships of 400 tons burden at
spring-tides. The administration of it is vested in
commissioners, to whom the property of the old har-
bour, and the shore-dues, have been transferred on
payment to the community of £10,000 in name of
compensation. In 1781, there belonged to the port
18 vessels, of aggregately 900 tons; in 1791, 32
vessels, of 1,704 "tons; in 1833, 77 vessels, of 6,700
tons; and in 1860, 94 vessels, of 13,320 tons. The
coasting trade of the port during the year 1860 com-
prised a tonnage of 28,336 inward, and 12,291 out-
ward ; and the foreign and colonial trade comprised
a tonnage of 5,914 inward and 3,330 outward. The
chief exports are the products of the manufactories
of the town, and the products of Forfarshire mines
and quarries ; and the chief imports are flax, hemp,
codilla, bones, oak-bark, hides, battens, deals, oak-
plank, fir-timber, and groceries. The custom-house
revenue in 1860 was £13,041.
Arbroath possesses a very creditable amount of
educational, literary, benevolent, and miscellaneous
institutions. Its chief schools are the Academy or
High school, with 3 teachers; the Burgh school,
with 1 teacher; and the Benevolent School Society's
School, with 2 teachers; and a Charity School insti-
tuted in 1845. A public subscription library was
established in 1797, and now contains upwards of
7,000 volumes. The Mechanics' institution has a
library of 1,500 volumes, and a reading-room open
on Wednesdays and Saturdays. There are two
public subscription reading-rooms. The Natural
History, Antiquarian, and Scientific Society has a
museum which is open to the public every Saturday.
The other chief institutions and associations are a
Savings bank, an Infirmary, a Dispensary, two
Destitute Sick societies, a Ladies' clothing society,
a Bible society, a Reform society, a Horticultural
society, a Cricket club, and a Total-abstinence so-
ciety.
Arbroath is a royalty of very ancient erection.
It was probably erected into a royal burgh by Wil-
liam the Lion, about the year 1186; but this cannot
exactly be ascertained owing to the loss of the ori-
ginal charter, which was taken by force out of the
abbey — where it was lodged in the time of the civil
wars during the minority of James VI. — by George,
Bishop of Moray. The burgh was, however, con-
firmed in its privileges by a charter of novodamus
from James VI. in 1599. It was formerly governed
by a provost, 2 bailies, a treasurer, and 15 council-
lors, and has 7 incorporated trades. The magis-
trates and council are now elected according to the
provisions of 3° and 4° William IV. The council
consists of 18 members. In 1834, about 6,650 ol
the population were within the royalty, and 4,587
persons inhabited houses in streets without the roy-
alty. The property of the town, consisting of com-
mon lands, houses, mills, harbour, feu-duties, en-
tries, customs, and imposts, was recently valued at
£35,874; but the parliamentary commissioners were
of opinion that this was too high. The revenue, in
1788 was £864; in 1832, £2,922 ; the average an-
nual expenditure for 20 years preceding 1832 had
been £2,940; and the debt was £17,967. The reve-
nue in 1837-8 was £3,859; in 1841-2, £1,692; in
1863-4, about .£1,560. There is a guildry incorpo-
ration ; and there are seven incorporated trades. A
Bailie Court is held every Friday; and a Police
Court on the forenoon of every Monday. Arbroath
ARBROATH.
68
ARBROATH.
unites with Forfar, Montrose, Brechin, and Bervie
in sending a member to parliament. In 1837, the
municipal constituency was 245, and the parlia-
mentary constituency, 452 j and in 1864 the muni-
cipal constituency was 602, and tlic parliamentary
constituency was 008. Population of the parlia-
mentary burgh in 1831,13,795; in 1841, 14,576;
in 1S61, 17,593. Houses, 1,914. Estimated popu-
lation of the parliamentary burgh in 1865, consider-
ably above 20,000. Population of the municipal
burgh in 1861, 7,984. Houses, 932.
The glory of Arbroath in former times was its
abbey, the venerable ruins of which are still much
admired by travellers. It was founded about 11 7S
by William I., and dedicated to the memory of Tbo-
mas-a-Becket. Its founder was interred within it;
but there are no authentic remains of his tomb. It
probably, however, stood near the great altar, in a
snot which afterwards became a private burial-
place. The monastery of Arbroath was one of the
richest in Scotland, and its abbots were frequently
the first churchmen of the kingdom. Cardinal Bea-
ton was the last abbot of this establishment, at the
same time that he was archbishop of St. Andrews.
The monks were of the Tyronensian order, and were
first brought from Kelso. A charter is still extant
from John of England, under the great seal of that
kingdom, by which the monastery and citizens of
Aberbrothock are exempted " a teloniis et consue-
tudine," in every part of England except London
and Oxford. This abbe)' was also of considerable
note in Scottish history, particularly as the seat of
that parliament which, during the reign of King
Robert Bruce, addressed the celebrated manifesto to
the Pope. After the death of Beaton, the abbey
felt the destructive rage of the Reformers. The
last commendatory abbot of Aberbrothock was John
Hamilton, second son to the Duke of Chatelherault,
who was afterwards created Marquis of Hamilton,
The abbey was erected into a temporal lordship, in
favour of James, Marquis of Hamilton, son to the
former, upon the 5th May, 1608. It afterwards be-
longed to the Earl of Dysart, from whom Patrick
Maule of Panmure, gentleman of the bedchamber to
James VI., purchased it, with the right of patronage
of all the parishes thereto belonging, thirty-four in
number. The abbots of this place had several spe-
cial privileges. They were exempted from assisting
at the yearly synods ; and Pope Bennet, by his bull
dated at Avignon, granted to John, Abbot of Ar-
broath, the privilege of wearing a mitre and other
pontifical ornaments.
The rains of the abbey are " most deliciously
situated," and strikingly picturesque. The New
Statistical Account of the parish, written in Decem-
ber 1833, describes them as follows: — "The pre-
cincts of the abbey were enclosed with a stone wall
from 20 to 24 feet in height; and formed an area
1,150 feet in length from north to south, and in
breadth 706 feet at the north, and 484 at the south
end. At the north-west corner there is a tower,
still entire, 24 feet square, and 70 feet high, for-
merly used as the Regality prison. The ground-flat
is now converted into a butcher's shop. Another
tower, somewhat smaller, stood at the south-west
corner of the enclosure, which, with the addition of
a slated spire, served for many years as a steeple to
the present parish church. Having become ruinous
it was taken down in 1830, and a remarkably hand-
some spire, 152 feet in height, has been erected in
its place. The main entiy to the area was by a
stately porch on the north side. If it had not been
that, a few years ago, the vaulting was taken down
under an apprehension of insecurity, this would
have been entire. For defence it appears to have
been furnished with a portcullis, which now forms
the armorial bearings of the town of Arbroath.
There was another entry, but far inferior in archi-
tectural display, at the south-cast comer, known by
the name of the Darngate. A considerable portion
of the north side of the enclosure was occupied by
the Abbey church. The dimensions of this building
were — length, 270 feet; length of transept, 132
feet; of the nave, 148 feet; and of the choir, 7CJ
feet; breadth of the transept, 45J feet; of the cen-
tral aisle, 35 feet; and of each of the side aisles, 16J
feet. From marks, visible on the walls, the height
from the pavement to the roof appears to have been
67 feet. The building' is now in a state of ruin.
All that remains is the south wall, with part of the
east and west ends. A portion of the two western
towers still exists in a very mutilated condition.
The great entrance at the west end of the church is
entire, with indications of a circular window above.
A similar window, on a smaller scale, is to be seen
on the upper part of the wall of the south transept.
The other windows which remain are in the early-
pointed or lancet-shaped style. The pillars which
supported the roof of the church are all demolished ;
but their foundations may be traced without diffi-
culty. Adjoining to the south transept, on the east,
is a building said to have been the charter-house of
the abbey. It consists of two vaulted apartments,
the one above the other, in a state of good repair.
Immediately in front of this, and of the south tran-
sept, appear to have been the cloisters; and at a
short distance from the south wall of the nave are
the remains of the Abbot's house, which is still in-
habited as a private mansion. On the whole, the
buildings, although, when entire, they must have
had an imposing aspect, were inferior, in point ol
magnificence, to some others of which Scotland
could boast." The rains too, are picturesque only
in the large view, and have totally lost their beauty
in detail and all their sculptural decoration ; but the
Commissioners of Woods and Forests have appointed
a keeper of them, and expend annually a sum in re-
pairing the extant walls.
Jurisdiction over the criminal affairs of the abbey
and over its prison was resigned by the monks to a
layman; and in the year 1445, the election to this
office led to very disastrous consequences. The
monks that year chose Alexander Lindsay, eldest
son of the Earl of Crawford, and commonly known
by the appellation of The Tiger, or Earl Beardy, to
be the baillie or chief-justiciar of their regality; but
he proved so expensive by his number of followers
and high way of living, that they were obliged to
remove him, and appoint in his place Alexander
Ogilvie of Innerquharity, nephew to John Ogilvie
of Airly, who had an hereditary claim to the place.
This occasioned a cruel feud between the families;
each assembled their vassals ; and "there can be
little doubt," says Mr. Fraser Tytler, " that the Og-
ilvies must have sunk under this threatened attack,
but accident gave them a powerful ally in Sir Alex-
ander Seton of Gordon, afterwards Earl of Huntly,
who, as he returned from court, happened to lodge
for the night at the castle of Ogilvie, at the veiy
moment when this baron was mustering his forces
against the meditated assault of Crawford. Seton,
although in no way personally interested in the
quarrel, found himself, it is said, compelled to assist
the Ogilvies, by a rude but ancient custom, which
bound the guest to take common part with his host
in all dangers which might occur so long as the
food eaten under his roof remained in his stomach.
Wirh the small train of attendants and friends who
accompained him, he instantly joined the forces ol
Innerquharity, and proceeding to the town of Ar-
ARBROATH.
64
ARBUTHNOT.
broath, found the opposite party drawn up in great
strength on the outside of the gates." As the two
lines approached each other, and spears were placing
in the rest, the Earl of Crawford, anxious to avert
it, suddenly appeared on the field, and galloping up
between the two armies, was accidentally slain by
a soldier. The Crawfords, assisted by a large party
of the vassals of Douglas, and infuriated at the loss
of their chief, thereupon attacked the Ogilvies with
a desperation which soon broke their ranks, and re-
duced them to irreclaimable disorder. Such, how-
ever, was the gallantry of their resistance, that they
were almost entirely cut to . pieces. Nor was the
loss which the Ogilvies sustained in the field their
worst misfortune ; for Lindsay, with his character-
istic ferocity, and protected by the authority of
Douglas, let loose his army upon their estates, and
the flames of their castles, the slaughter of their
vassals, the plunder of their property, and the cap-
tivity of their wives and children, instructed the re-
motest adherents of the justiciar of Arbroath, how
terrible was the vengeance which they had provoked.
The revenues of this abbey at the Reformation
we're as follow : money £2,553 14s. ; wheat 30 ch. 3
bolls, 3 fir. 2 pecks ; bear 143 ch. 9 bolls, 2 pecks ;
meal 196 ch. 9 bolls, 2 fir.; oats 27 ch. 11 bolls;
salmon 37 bar. and 2 bar. grilses : omitted capons,
poultry, grassums, dawikis, and all other services
and duties : to this is also to be added the teinds of
the kirks of Abemethy, Tannadice, and Monifieth.
While some workmen were employed in 1835, in
clearing out the rubbish from the ruins of the abbey,
they came upon a stone coffin containing the skel-
eton of a female which had been carefully enveloped
in a covering of leather. This must have been
some lady of rank in her day, and the good folks set
it down as the remains of the Queen of William the
Lion, who, as well as her husband, the founder of
the abbey, was interred here.
During the war, in 1781, this coast was annoyed
by a French privateer, named the Fearnought of
Dunkirk, commanded by one Fall. On the evening
of the 23d of May, he came to anchor in the bay of
Arbroath, and fired a few shot into the town ; after
which he sent a flag of trace on shore, with the
following letter :
" At sea, May twenty-third.
" Gentlemen, I send these two words to inform you, that I
will have you to bring to the French colour, in less than a quarter
of an hour, or I set the town on fire directly ; such is the order
of my master the king of France I am sent by. Send directly
the mair and chiefs of the town to make some agreement with
me, or I'll make my duty. It is the will of yours.
" To Monsieurs Mair of the town called}
Arbrought, or in his absence, to the >
chief man after him, in Scotland." )
The worthy magistrates, with a view to gain time
to arm the inhabitants, and send expresses for mili-
tary aid, in the true spirit of subtile, diplomacy, gave
an evasive answer to Monsieur Fall's letter, remind-
ing him that he had mentioned no terms of ransom,
and begging he would do no injury to the town till
he should hear from them again. Upon this Fall
wrote a second letter to them in the following terms :
" At sea, eight o'ctock in the afternoon.
" Gentlemen, I received just now your answer, by which you
say I ask no terms. I thought it was useless, since I asked you
to come aboard for agreement. But here are my terms ; I will
have £30,000 sterling at least, and 6 of the chiefs men of the
town for otage. Be speedy, or I shoot your town away directly,
and I set fire to it I am, gentlemen, your servant. I sent some
of my crew to you ; but if some harm happens to them, you'll be
sure will hang up the main-yard all the preseners we have aboard.
" To Monsieurs the chiefs men of ^
Arbrought in Scotland." )
The magistrates having now got some of the in-
habitants armed, and their courage further sup-
ported by the arrival of some military from Mon-
trose, set Fall at defiance, and " ordered him to do
his worst, for they would not give him a farthing."
Whereupon, says the worthy historian of this mem-
orable transaction in the annals of Arbroath, ter-
ribly enraged, and no doubt greatly disappointed,
he began a heavy fire upon the town, and continued
it for a long time ; but happily it did no harm, ex-
cept knocking down some chimney -tops, and burn-
ing the fingers of those who took up his balls, which
were heated.
ARBROATH and DUNDEE RAILWAY. See
Dundee and Aebkoath Railway.
ARBROATH and FORFAR RAILWAY. This
railway commences at the harbour of Arbroath, and
passing through the valley of the Brothock, and the
upper part of the valley of the Lunan, and skirting
the lochs of Balgavies and Rescobie, terminates in
the Playfield of Forfar. Its length is 15J, miles,
with a rise of 220 feet. The act of parliament for
it, 6° William IV., cap. 34, was obtained in May
1836; and a supplementary act was obtained in
April 1840, 3° Victoria, cap. 14. Under these acts
the railway company had a fixed capital of £120,000,
with power to borrow £40,000 in addition. The ex-
pense of constructing it was £131,644. About 5
miles of it were opened for traffic on 3d September,
1838 ; and the whole line on the 2d of January, 1839.
There are six intermediate stations between the ter-
minal stations: viz., Colliston, Leysmill, Friock-
heim, Guthrie, Auldbar road, and Clocksbriggs.
The population of the eight parishes through which
the railway passes, including the towns of Arbroath
and Forfar, is about 35,000. The effects on the dis-
trict of this cheap and speedy means of communi-
cation were soon remarkable, and furnished a strik-
ing example of the utility of railways, and the great
comfort and accommodation they afford to the pub-
lic. Previous to 1839 there was not a stage-coach
or conveyance of any kind for passengers between
Arbroath and Forfar. The first year the railway
was opened, there were conveyed upon it 98,513
passengers; and from the 2d of January, 1839, to
the 5th of November, 1842, the number conveyed
upon it amounted to 376,167. The goods conveyed
during the same period amounted to 207,806 tons.
During all this time too, and for several years after,
the railway had only a single line of rails, and got
little benefit from connection with other railways.
But in the beginning of 1846, an agreement was
made to incorporate it with the Aberdeen railway,
to lay down upon it a second line of rails, to give
its rails and carriages the same gauge as those of
the Aberdeen railway, and to work it fully in con-
nection with all the trains between Dundee and
Aberdeen ; and when these arrangements came in-
to operation, they necessarily gave it a vast increase
of utility. See Aberdeen Railway.
ARBUTHNOT, a parish in the south-east part of
the county of Kincardine. Its post-town is Bervie.
It is nearly of a triangular form, with the exception
of a small district on the south-west side, which
forms a projection southward of the water of Bervie,
which, except at this point, divides it from the par
ishes of Bervie and Garvock. Upon the west it is
bounded by the parishes of Fordouu and Glenbervie,
or the great hollow of the Mearns, the Bervie and
the Forthy forming the dividing line on this side ;
and on the north-east and east it is bounded by the
parishes of Divnottar and Kinneff. The surface pre-
sents two rising grounds or ridges, with hollows oi
valleys betwixt them and the boundaries of the par-
ish on each side, where the ground again rises tc
still greater height, but in no quarter does the rise
AKCIIA1G.
fi5
ARCIIAIG.
much exceed COO feet. The nnvrow valley in which
the Bervie runs is highly picturesque and beautiful,
containing the noble mansion of Arbuthnot and the
ruined house of AUardyce, with the church situated
between them. Within this parish there arc several
freestone quarries of excellent quality. In one spot
there is a trap-rock full of pebbles, with some green
iasper of considerable beauty. On the south side
)f the Bervie, nearly opposite the church, a vein
of manganese occurs. No coal or limestone has
been discovered ; but some chalybeate springs indi-
cate the presence of iron. The proprietors are five
in number ; but Lord Arbuthnot is the ouly one
resident. By a map of the county, executed in 1774,
it appears that there are in this parish 7,785 Scotch,
or 9,893 English acres, of which about two-thirds
are cultivated ; and about 300 acres are under wood.
The Statistical reporter, in 1838, states that the
average rent of the arable lands is only 18s. per
acre; and that the real rental is about £6,200.
The bouse of Kair, the property of the family of Kin-
loch, is a pleasant modern mansion. Thefamily of Sib-
balds of Kair, one of the most ancient in the county,
possessed very extensive property in this parish.
Among the last of this family was Dr. David Sib-
bald, who having been preceptor to the Duke of
Gloucester, son to Charles I., suffered much on ac-
count of his loyalty in the civil wars, was impri-
soned in London, and had his estate forfeited. He
lived, however, to witness the restoration of Charles
II., and died in his own house of Kair, in 1661.
The celebrated Dr. Arbuthnot, physician to Queen
Anne, had his birth and early education in this par-
ish. He was son to Alexander Arbuthnot, minister
here, who was deprived for nonconformity in the
year 1689. Dr. Arbuthnot received the first part of
his education at the parish school of Arbuthnot,
whence he and his elder brother Bobert, afterwards a
banker at Paris, removed to Marisehal college of
Aberdeen, about the year 1680. This parish gives
the title of Viscount to the ancient family of Arbuth-
not, who also have the title of Baron Inverbervie,
and whose only seat is Arbuthnot House, within the
parish. The peerage was created in 1641. Popu-
lation of this parish in 1831, 944; in 1861, 932.
Houses, 176. Assessed property in 1865, £8,916
7s. lOd.
This parish is in the presbytery of Fordoun, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, Viscount Ar-
buthnot. Stipend, £225 0s. 9d.; glebe, £9. School-
master's salary now is £45, with about £\Q fees.
There are four private schools. The church is pro-
bably 400 years old, but is in good repair, and has
440 sittings. Adjoining it is an aisle of beautiful
workmanship, which was built by Alexander Ar-
buthnot, designed, in the appendix to Spottiswood's
History, brother to the baron of Arbuthnot, and
parson of Arbuthnot and Logie-Buchan. He was
elected the first Protestant principal of King's
college, Aberdeen, in 1569. The lower part of
this aisle was intended and has been used as a
burial-place for the family of Arbuthnot. In the
upper part was a well-finished apartment filled with
books chiefly in divinity, bequeathed by the Rev.
John Sibbald, one of the ministers of Arbuthnot, for
the use of his successors, but which have all disap-
peared.
AKCHAIG, or Aekeg (Loch), a beautiful sheet of
water in the parish of KHmallie, Inverness-shire,
about 16 or 17 miles in length, and from 1 to 1J in
breadth. It is only about 2 miles distant from the
south-west extremity of Loch-Lochy, and about 10
miles from the Neptune inn at the western end of
the Caledonian canal. This loch presents one of
those many spots of surpassing beauty which are so
I.
numerous in Scotland, and yet so little known.
Hundreds of tourists pass within a very short dis-
tance of this loch every season without one paying
it a visit; and if the masters of the steam-boats
which ply on the canal are aware of its existence at
all, they are utterly ignorant of its picturesque and
romantic beauty. Even Macculloch, indefatigable
as he was in his researches, omitted visiting this
enchanting spot. "It is said," he tells us, "that
Loch-Arkeg is a picturesque lake, though unknown;
which seems probable from the forms of the hills,
and the nature of the country. But on this I must
confess ignorance, and plead misfortune, not guilt;
the flight of what never ceases anywhere to fly —
time; and the fall of what seldom ceases here to fall
— rain." The opening of the glen of Archaig is di-
vided by a ridge of hills into two valleys of unequal
breadth. This ridge commences near the farm of
Chines, rising in little round knolls crowned with
wood, which gradually increase in height as thev
penetrate the glen, till they terminate abruptly in a
lofty wooded precipice, the base of which is washed
by the waters of the lake, in the southern — which
is the broadest of these divisions — are situated the
pleasure-grounds and house of Achnacary, the fa-
mily-mansion of Cameron of Lochiel. Throngn the
other, which is called Mil-dubh, or ' the dark mile,'
there is a road to the shores of the lake. The lake
may be approached by either of these openings, but
the scenery of the latter is the most picturesque and
romantic. Indeed, we know of hardly any place
which can be put in competition with the Mil-dubh.
It is a narrow, wooded pass, bounded on the one
hand by the ridge alreadymentioned, which separates
it from Achnacary; and on the other by a lofty bar-
rier of almost perpendicular rocks. Great masses of
these immense rocks have fallen down in various
places, and now form small hills at the base of the
precipices from which they have been detached.
The whole pass is covered with trees — chiefly pine
and birch — from its very bottom to the top of the
mountains on both sides. Even the perpendicular
barrier of rock on the north is covered with wood to
the summit. Every interstice or opening in the
rock seems to give root to a tree ; and so much is
this the case, that in many places the rocks are
completely hid by the leafy screen which covers and
ornaments them ; yet a great deal of the wood which
once occupied this pass has been cut down, and it
has consequently lost something of the dark look
which it formerly had, and which gave rise to its
name. Indeed, it may be questioned whether the
effect has not been increased by removing part of
the wood. The numerous partial and varied lights
which have thus been let in upon the scene, the ex-
posure of the rocks which has been made in various
places, and the shadowy gloom preserved on others,
give a life and character to the pass of the Mil-dubh
which is inexpressibly enchanting. The glen of
Achnacary is also fine, though of a different style of
beauty. The scenery is here of a more open char-
acter,— but still beautifully wooded, and more culti-
vated. The tourist will do well to visit both places,
but he should most certainly approach Loeh-Archaig
by the pass of the Mil-dubh. By this road the lake
is entirely hid till the traveller is* close upon it. Af-
ter penetrating through the pass, and just before
entering on the lake, a small stream, falling over
the rocks to the north, forms a pleasing cascade
finely fringed with trees and underwood which over-
hang and ahnost dip into its waters. Immediately
afterwards the lake begins to appear, small appa-
rently at first, but gradually enlarging as we ad-
vance. Ascending a small hill a short way up its
northern shore, its whole extent is opened up, stretch-
£
AECHAIO.
66
AKL>.
ing far to the west, and surrounded with dark and
lofty mountains, — its shores richly wooded, and in-
dented by winding bays and jutting promontories.
Two or three small islands speck its bosom, and im-
mediately opposite, on the southern shore, a dark
forest of natural pine trees of great size frowns over
it. Looking to the east, across the lower portion of
the lake, we have the opening of Achnacary, with
its house and pleasure-grounds ; and in the distance,
the waters of Loch-Lochy, with the mountain-barrier
on its opposite shore. Altogether, Loch-Archaig
affords scenery of the finest description, and it is
questionable if it is excelled, or even equalled by any
of our Scottish lakes.
The shores of this romantic lake more than once
gave shelter to Prince Charles after his discomfiture
at Culloden. A few days after that fatal encounter,
he lodged at the house of Donald Cameron of Glen-
pean, on this lake. After his return from the is-
lands, he and Donald Cameron slept for some hours
on the top of a mountain called Mamnan-Callum, on
the shores of this lake, within sight of the encamp-
ment of his pursuers, which was not above a mile
distant. Here they arrived in the morning, and re-
mained till evening watching the motions of their
enemies; at night-fall they betook themselves to
Corrie-nan-gaul, in Knoidart, in which latter dis-
trict he wandered for some time. Again, however,
he was hunted by his ruthless pursuers towards
Lochaher ; and again the shores of Loch-Archaig af-
forded him shelter. Cameron of Chines, the ances-
tor of the present possessor of that farm, being him-
self in peril, had erected a hut on a hill called Tor-
a-inuilt, or ' the Wedder's hill,' at the bottom of
Loch-Archaig. To this place the Prince was taken
by Climes, and here he lurked securely, though in
the immediate neighbourhood of his foes, for several
days. At this period Charles is described as wear-
ing a shirt extremely soiled, an old tartan coat, a
plaid, and a philabeg. He was bare-footed, and had
a long beard. In his hand he usually carried a mus-
ket, and he had a dirk and pistol by his side. A few
years ago, an ancient claymore, much injured with
rust, was found near the site of this hut, which, in
all probability, had belonged to Charles or some
of his friends. — It was on the shores of Loch-Archaig
that Munro of Culcairn was shot by an exasperated
Highlander, shortly after the suppression of the Re-
bellion ; and it reflects infinite credit on this people,
that notwithstanding all the calamities they suffered,
this is the only instance of assassination which can
be brought against them. Mr. Chambers [History
of the Rebellion in 1745, vol. ii. p. 139] has erred in
several particulars in his account of this affair. The
perpetrator was not a servant of Glengarry, but one
of the clan Cameron, who resided on Loch-Archaig;
his name was Dugald Roy Cameron, or, as he is still
styled in tradition, Du Rhu. It is well known that
an order was issued to the Highlanders to deliver up
their arms after the Rebellion. Dugald, willing to
make his peace with the government, sent his son
to Fort- William with his arms to be delivered up.
The young man when coming down Loch-Archaig
was met by an officer of the name of Grant, who
was conducting a party of military into Knoidart.
This monster immediately seized the young man,
and notwithstanding his statement as to the object
of his going to Fort- William, ordered him to be shot
on the spot. His father, fired at this savage deed,
swore to be revenged, and learning that the officer
rode a white horse, watched his return behind a
rock, on a height above Loch-Archaig. Major Munro
had unfortunately borrowed the white horse on
which Grant rode, and he met the fate which was
intended for another. Dugald Roy escaped at the
time, and afterwards became a soldier in the British
service.
ARCHASIG-HIRM. See Rona.
ARCHERBRECK. See Cakoby.
ARCHIESTOWN, a village in the parish of
Knockando, Morayshire. It stands on the moor of
Baffin tomb; and the nearest post-office to it is that
of Craigellachie. It was founded in 1760, and part-
ly burned in 1783; and it now consists of a princi-
pal street, a square, and several lanes. It contains
an United Presbyterian church ; and is a centre of
influence to a considerable surrounding district.
There is a mineral well in its vicinity. Population
in 1861, 174. See Kjsockando.
ARCLET (Loch), a small gloomy-looking sheet
of water in the north-west corner of the parish of
Buchanan in Stirlingshire, and bordering on Aber-
foyle pans!). A stream flows out of its western
side into Loch Lomond at Inversnaid; while the
sources of the Forth are within half-a-mile of it on
the south; so that it appears to lie on the dividing
ridge betwixt the waters of the two friths. The
road from Inversnaid to Loch Katerine passes on
the southern side of the loch, which is wholly desti-
tute of picturesque features.
ARD (Loch), a beautiful sheet of water in the
parish of Aberfoyle, at the eastern base of Ben-Lo-
mond. By a mountain-road, which is often tra-
velled, it is about 7 miles distant from the Trosachs.
The distance from Glasgow to Aberfoyle is about 30
miles, and from the parish church to the entrance
of the lake, a mile. There are in fact two lakes,
which are separated from each other by a stream
about 200 yards in length; but the lower lake is of
small extent, its length being scarcely a mile, and
its breadth about half-a-mile. The upper lake is 5
miles in length, and 2 miles broad. The valley of
Aberfoyle, with its varied rocks and precipices, and
its river winding amid pleasant meadows and richly
wooded hills, is very beautiful; but Loch-Ard, with
its adjoining sceneiy, is the object of greatest inter-
est in the district, and yields to none of the Scottish
lakes in picturesque beauty and effect. The travel-
ler, leaving Aberfoyle, after a walk of about a mile,
arrives at the opening of the lower lake, the view
of which is uncommonly grand. Far in the west,
Ben-Lomond raises his huge and lofty form amid
the clouds; while in nearer prospect are beheld
gentle rising grounds covered to their summits with
oak trees and waving birch. In front are the smooth
waters of the lower lake; its right banks skirted
with extensive woods which cover the adjoining
mountains up to half their height. This, with the
nearly inaccessible tract which lies to the westward,
is what is called the Pass of Aberfoyle, and anciently
formed one of the barriers between the Highlands
and the Lowlands. This pass has been the scene
of many fierce encounters in former times ; in par-
ticular, one took place here between the Highlanders
and the troops of Cromwell, in which the English
soldiers were defeated. Advancing up the pass, the
traveller arrives at the upper portion of the lake.
A fine view of it is obtained from a rising ground
near its lower end, where a footpath strikes off the
road into the wood that overhangs the stream, con-
necting the upper with the lower lake; or a still
finer, perhaps, from a height about 2 miles up the
eastern side of the lake, a little way below what is
called the Priest's point or craig. Here the lake is
seen almost in its whole expanse, — its shores beau-
tifully skirted with woods, and its northern and
western extremities finely diversified with meadows,
corh-fields"and farm-houses. On the opposite shore
Ben-Lomond towers aloft, in form like a cone, its
sides presenting gentle slopes towards the north-
AEDARGIE.
07
ARDCHATTAN.
west ami south-east. A cluster of rocky islets near
the opposite shore, lend their aid in ornamenting
the surface of the waters of the lake; and numerous
rocky promontories and sheltered hays with their
waving woods increase the effect of the scene. A
small wooded island, seen near the opposite shore,
on the right side, is Duke Murdoch's isle. On this
islet Murdoch, Duke of Albany, Regent of Scotland
during the captivity of James I. in England, erected
a tower or castle, the ruins of which still remain ;
and tradition reports that it was from hence he was
taken previous to his execution at Stirling. On the
shores of Loch-Ard, near a ledge, or rather wall of
rock, about 30 feet in height, there is a singular
echo which repeats a few words twice over.
ARD, or Aihd. See Ajkd.
ARDARGIE, an estate in the parish of Forgan-
denny, Perthshire. Here is a remarkably perfect
small Roman camp, situated on a high bank, which
overlooks the river May, slopes to the west, and
commands an extensive prospect among the Ochils,
and along the course of the Roman road from Ar-
doch to the Tay. The camp is an exact square, of
about 270 feet on each side; and is defended by
trenches of 30 feet in width and about 14 in depth.
There was once a village of Ardargie, but it is now
extinct.
ARDAVASAR, or Akdvasab, a bay, a headland,
and a hamlet on the Isle-of-Skye side of the Sound
of Sleat, about 6 miles north-east of the Point of
Sleat, and about li mile from Armadale Castle, In-
verness-shire. The headland is the ordinary land-
ing-place from Arasaig.
ARDBLAIR, an old mansion in the parish of
Blairgowrie, Perthshire. It is one of those ancient
massive - looking structures which partake, in a
nearly equal degree, of the gloomy, frowning, suspi-
cious-looking style of the olden time, and the more
open and commodious fashion of our own days. The
castle is one of the family seats of Mr. Blair Oli-
Ehant of Gask and Ardblair, but it is now occupied
y the tenant of the adjoining farm. On the south
side of the house lies the moss of Ardblair, a tract
of some 20 or 30 acres, covered with reeds and pools.
ARDCHATTAN, a large highland parish in the
Lorn division of Argyleshire. Its post-office is
Bunawe. It consists of the large district of Ard-
chattan proper in the north, and of the smaller dis •
trict of Muckairn in the south. The former was
anciently called Balrnhaodan, and seems to have
taken that designation from the same obscure an-
cient anchorite who gave name to the parish of Kil-
madan or Kilmodan in Cowal ; and the latter was
anciently called Kilespikarrol, which signifies the
cell or ecclesiastical retreat of Bishop Cerylus or
Cerullus. The boundary between the two districts
is Loch Etive. Ardchattan proper is bounded by
Loch Creran, Loch Linnhe, Loch Etive, the river
Awe, the northern part of Loch Awe, the parish of
Glenorchy, and the district of Appin; and measures
upwards of 40 miles in extreme length from north-
east to south-west, and about 10 miles in mean
breadth. Muckairn is bounded by Loch Etive, and
by the parishes of Lismore, Innishail, and Kil-
chrenan; and measures about 9 miles in extreme
length from east to west, and from 5 to 6 miles in
mean breadth.
Ardchattan proper is as grandly and wildly
mountainous a region as almost any in the High-
lands; and, though picturesquely diversified with
glens and woods and waters, contains a vast pro-
portion of rugged alpine heigbts and of waste bleak
mosses and moors. Its chief glens are Glensalloeb,
a sort of pass among the mountains, 6 miles in
length, between Loch Creran and Loch Etive;
Glcndow, extending from east to west, and scarcely
3 miles in length ; Glenure, extending about :;
miles from a grandly mountain-girt head down to
the river Creran; Glenetivc, 16 miles in length
south-westward to the head of Loch Etive, and all
lonely and sublime, and anciently a royal forest;
Glenhetland, a branch of the preceding, about 3
miles from the loch, and about 2 miles long ; Glen-
kinglas, 9 miles long, upwards of a mile broad, and
descending to the south side of the upper part of
Loch Etive; andGlen-uve, parallel to the preceding,
south of it, about 4 miles long, and about 1 mile
broad, and beautifully verdant. A grand array of
mountains occupies the northern side of the parish ;
and of these Benvean, Benmolurgan, Benvreck,
Benscoullard, and Benaulay, are the most conspi-
cuous. The stupendous Benveedan occupies the
frontier toward the Glencoe district of Appin. Two
grandly romantic mountains, called Buachail Etive
or ' the keepers of Etive,' overhang Glenetive and
form a sublime background to vista-views from the
upper parts of Loch Etive. Bentreelahan flanks
the north side of that loch, over a distance of 5
miles from near its head; and Benstarive, a vast
broad-based mass, with an altitude of at least 2,500
feet, flanks the other side right opposite. Benchav-
racb, Benketlan, Ben-nan- aigheau, and Bencochail,
are all grand mountains between Loch Etive and
Locb Awe. But vastly the grandest in that quar-
ter, and indeed one of the sublimest in Scotland, is
Bencraachan. See the article Bexcruachah.
This great district contains a few pine and fir
plantations, and abounds in natural forest trees, and
contains altogether about 3,000 acres of woods.
Every cutting of the woods is supposed to yield the
proprietors no less than £15,000 or £16,000 sterling.
They consist of ash, birch, hazel, and alder, but
chiefly oak. Roes and faUow-deer run wild in the
woods; and foxes, hares, wild-cats, pole-cats, mar-
tins, weasels, otters, badgers, black-cocks, moor-
fowl, ptarmigans, partridges, plovers, eagles, and
hawks are found here. The soil of the arable lands
is generally light and dry, and when properly culti-
vated, and allowed time to rest, produces excellent
crops of oats, barley, and potatoes. The largest
estate, that of Barcaldine, is about 12 miles north-
east from Oban, 28 miles south-west from Fort-
William, and the like distance north-west from In-
verary. It is situated on Loch Creran, and compre-
hends the whole of the southern banks of Loch
Creran, a stretch of about 12 miles of coast, while
at one point on the south it nearly reaches Loch
Etive. This estate contains 10,741 acres Scots, or
13,546 imperial; but a large addition may be made
on account of the great inequality of surface through-
out, particularly on the hills and woods, so that the
true extent of surface- measure may fairly be taken
at upwards of 15,000 imperial acres. The rental,
including the value of the sheep -farms and the
wood-cuttings, was estimated in 1835 at nearly
£2,700. There are six heritors, all of the name of
Campbell ; and the chief modem mansions are
Lochnell House, Barcaldine House, Drimvnick
House, and the House of Inverawe. The assessed
property in 1843 was £10,708 ; in 1860, £12,471. A
chief antiquity are the supposed vestiges of an an-
cient Dalriadic city : see Bekegoxium. Another
chief antiquity is Ardchattan priory, situated on the
north side of Loch Etive, about 10 miles from Dun-
staffnage. It belonged to the monks of Valliscau-
lium, a branch of the Benedictines; and was
founded about the year 1230 by Duncan M'Coull,
ancestor of the Macdougalls of Lorn, and was
burned by Colkitto during Montrose's wars. The
dwelling-house of the proprietor of the surrounding
ARDCHATTAN.
68
ARDCLACH.
lands was formerly a part of the monastery, and his
offices occupy great part of the ground on which
the rest of it stood. In the walls of what remains
are two stone coffins in niches, one of which is or-
namented with a font, and an inscription in the
Bunic character. We are informed by some of our
writers, that Eobert Bruce held a parliament here,
when he retired into this district after his defeat in
the battle of Methven. But, as Pennant has re-
marked, it was " more probably a council," as " he
remained long master of this country before he
got entire possession of Scotland." The parts of
Loch Etive adjacent and upward are replete with
interest. See Etive (Loon), and Connal Ferky.
The valley of Eta is famous as having been the re-
sidence of Usnath, father of Nathos, Althos, and
Ardan ; the first of whom earned off Darthula, wife
of Conquhan, Eing of Ulster, which is the subject
of a beautiful poem of Ossian. There is a small
island, with some vestiges of a house upon it in Loch
Etive, which goes by the name of Ekiin U/mich, or
' the island of Usnath;' and on the farm of Dulness,
in Glenetive, is a rock rising in the form of a cone,
and commanding a romantic prospect, which to this
day retains the name of Grianan Dearduil, ' the
basking-place of Darthula.'
Muckaim is much less loftily mountainous than
Ardchattan proper, and possesses a larger proportion
of low and arable lands. A range of heights called
the Mallore extends across part of it from north-
east to south-west, but has nowhere a greater ele-
vation than about 1,100 feet. The coast is generally
low ; and the shore line is diversified with creeks
and headlands, and with the two fine bays of Aird
and Stonefield. Since the year 1753, a great part of
the district has been held in lease by an English
Company, for the sake of converting its woods into
charcoal, and of using this in the manufacture of
pig-iron. The ore is imported from Lancashire;
the smelting of it is carried on in extensive works,
called the Lorn Furnace, in the vicinity of Bunawe ;
and the iron produced has the reputation of being
among the best in the kingdom. This business, in
its several departments, in the woods and at the
works, employs the greater part of the population,
and is found to be not at all conducive to a good
state of social morals. The population of the entire
parish of Ardchattan in 1831 was 2,420; in 1861,
2,110. Houses, 406. Population of Ardchattan
properin 1831, 1,650; in 1861, 1,381. Houses, 255.
This parish is in the presbytery of Lorn, and
synod of Argyle. Patron, Campbell of LocbneU.
By decreet of locality in 1817, the whole valued
teinds of Ardchattan and Muckairn were granted to
the minister of Ardchattan. Stipend, £283 3s. 2d.;
glebe, £8. There are three places of worship, Ard-
chattan, Muckaim, and Inverguesechan in Glenetive.
Muckairn has a minister to itself, [See Muckairn ;]
and at Inverguesechan there is a missionary, who
preaches alternately with the missionary of Glencoe
and Glencreran. A new and more centrically situ-
ated church was opened in Ardchattan parish, in
July 1836; sittings 450. Both the old and new
churches are situated close upon the northern shore
of Loch Etive, the former 10 miles, and the latter 8
from the western boundary, and 30 and 32 miles
respectively from the north-eastern boundary. There
are two parochial schools, one in Ardchattan and
the other in Muckaim. The salary of the school-
master of Ardchattan is £45 ; of the one of Muck-
airn, £50. There is one Free church in Ardchattan
proper, and another in Muckairn : attendance at
the former, 130, — at the latter 270; yearly sum
raised in 1865 in connexion with the former, £69 4s.
8£d., — in connexion with the latter, £76 0s. 6$d.
There are two Assembly's schools, a Society's
school, and three or four private schools.
ARDCHEANOCHEOCHAN. See Trosachs.
AEDCHULLEEIE. See Lubnaig (Loch.)
AEDCLACH, a highland parish in Nairnshire.
It is bounded by Auldearn, Nairn, Cawdor, Moy,
Duthil, and Ediiikelly parishes ; and is about 1 0 or
12 miles long, and between 7 and 8 broad. It has
a post-office of its own name, — a branch from For-
res. The Findhom river traverses the parish, and
is here rapid, and frequently impassable, excepting
at the bridges. In 1809 the parliamentary com-
missioners authorized the execution of a road from
Belugas, along the eastern side of the Findhorn, to
join the old military road from Fort George to Ed-
inburgh, through Strathspey and Braemar, near
Dulsie bridge, and thus connect Forres with the
Aviemore road and the south of Scotland. A branch-
road falls into this at Tominarroch, half-way be-
tween the bridge at Eelugas and Dulsie bridge,
connecting it with Nairn. The distance of the
kirk of Ardclach from Nairn by this branch-road is
about 9 miles. The valley of the Findhom here
presents veiy beautiful scenery. " The whole coun-
try for several miles eastward," say the Messrs.
Anderson, in their Guide to the Highlands, " is
composed of a highly crystalline porphyritie
granite, displaying, in some instances, faces of a
hard columnar rock, which confine the waters of
the Findhorn to a deep, narrow, and irregular chan-
nel; and in other places giving rise — from a ten-
dency in their masses to exfoliate and decompose —
to open holms and smooth grassy banks. All the
varieties of hardwood characteristic of the course
of Scottish rivers are seen in rich profusion on both
sides of the stream ; while the adjoining hills also
exhibit a few scattered remnants of the ancient pine
forests which fomierly covered the country. To-
wards the east, the eye is attracted by the bright
light green masses of the oak and birchen copses of
Tamaway and Eelugas, which form the outer fringes
of the more sombre pine woods. About a mile be-
low Dulsie, a beautiful sequestered holm greets the
traveller, encircled with terraced banks and birchen
bowers; and in the centre of which rises a small
cairn, with an ancient sculptured tablet, about eight
feet high, and half as broad, standing at one end of
it, and having a rude cross and many Eunic knots
still discernible on its surface. Tradition calls it
the stone of memorial of a Celtic princess, who
perished in the adjoining river, while attempting to
ford it on horseback with her lover, a Dane. En-
mediately behind this spot, the high promontory of
Famess rises nearly 200 feet above the river, the
direct course of which it has shifted, and confined to
a deep winding chasm of at least 3 miles' circuit."
See Dulsie Bridge. Five considerable burns drain
the flanks of the parish into the Findhom ; and one
of these is eminently picturesque. See Altnarie
(The). This parish is a mountainous district, cov-
ered with heath, and furnishes little of any other
kind of pasture. There is a considerable quantity
of wood in it, chiefly consisting of firs, birch, alder,
hazel, ash, and some oaks. The woods and hills
abound with moor-fowl, woodcocks, partridges,
hares, and foxes; some deer are found; and the
otter and wild cat are sometimes seen. There are
about 2,000 acres of arable land, and 4,000 acres of
moss and moor, a very small part of which seems
to be improvable for corn-lands. Very great im-
provements have recently taken place in agricul-
ture. There are six landowners; and the valued
rent is £2,326. The only mansion is Conlmony
House. Population in 1831, 1,270; in 1861, 1,330.
Houses, 262. Assessed property in 1860, £4,389.
AEDEN.
69
ARDMEANACH.
This parish is in the presbytery of Nairn and
synod of Moray. Patron, Brodie of Lethen. Sti-
pend, £24S Is. Id. Schoolmaster's salary, £42 2s.
;»d., with £4 10s. fees. The parish church was
built in 1839, and has 686 sittings. There is a
Free church; and the yearly sum raised in con-
nexion with it in 1865, was £90 2s. 8d. There
are at Fortnighty a Society's school and a female
school.
ARDELISTER ISLANDS. See Kildalton.
AEDEN, a village within the burgh boundaries
of Airdrie, parish of New Monklaud, Lanarkshire.
ARDENCf iXNEL. See Eow.
ABDEOXAIG, or Locn Tayside, a mission under
the Society for propagating Christian knowledge,
which was divided as a separate charge from the
parishes of Killin and Kenmore, in Perthshire, by
authority of the presbytery of Dunkeld, about 1786,
and consists of portions of these two parishes. Its
greatest length is 7 miles; greatest breadth, 4.
Population in 1831, 650. Church built by the
Marquis of Breadalbane, in 1822 ; sittings 650.
Minister's stipend £60, with a manse, and a glebe of
the value of £12.
ARDEKSIEK, or Ardrossee, a parish on the
east coast and north-east corner of Inverness-shire.
It contains a post-office of its own name, the fortifi-
cations and lands of Fort George, and the larger
part of the village of Campbellton. See George
(Fort) asd Campbellton. The parish is bounded
by the Moray filth, Nairnshire, and the parish of
Petty. Its greatest length, from north-west to
south-east, is about 4 miles ; and its breadth is up-
wards of 2 miles. The shore is sandy and flat,
which is the character of the whole of this side of
the Moray frith from Inverness to Nairn. The
rental of the parish, including the farm sold to gov-
ernment when the garrison of Fort -George was
built, was £365 in 1792; the rent of the garrison-
farm was £50. At that period nearly the whole
parish was in the possession of one farmer; but the
greater part was subset by him in small farms of
from 20 to 30 acres. There were scarcely any en-
closing walls known except a few rudely constructed
of feal or earth. But now the rental is believed to
be about £1,000, agriculture is vastly improved, and
the lauds are let in long-leased farms, and about
1,500 acres are under cultivation and about 1,800 in
pasture and heath. The roads are exceedingly
good. Where this parish is divided from Nairn-
shire, there is a stone about 6 feet high, and 3
broad, called the Cabbac stone, which, tradition says,
was erected over a chieftain who fell in an affray
about a cheese, in the town of Inverness. The
whole parish is the property of the Earl of Cawdor,
and was a part of the lands of the Bishop of Ross,
with some temple-lands formerly belonging to the
knights of St. John of Jerusalem. The territory
which constitutes the precinct of the Fort, was pur-
chased by government about the year 1746. Near
to Ardersier — -which is situate on the southern shore
of the Varar — a very curious Eomau sword and the
head of a spear-were discovered. Population in
1831, 1,268; in 1861, 1,239. Houses, 199. Assessed
property in 1860, £2,275.
This parish is in the presbytery of Nairn and sy-
nod of Moray. Patron, the Earl of Cawdor. Sti-
pend, £158 6s. 7d. Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with
£20 fees. The parish church was built in 1802,
and has upwards of 500 sittings. There is a Free
church, with an attendance of 480 ; and the yearly
sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £221
17s. 3d. There is in Campbellton an United Pres-
byterian church, with an attendance of about 150.
There are two private schools.
ARDFERN, a post-office station subordinate to
Lochgilphead, Argyleshire.
ARDGAY, a village in the parish of Kincardine,
and near Bonar-Bridge, on the north border of Ross-
shire. It has a commodious inn, and communicates
daily by public conveyance with Tain. A deed was
granted in 1686 to erect it into a burgh of barony
and a market town, with bailies, burgesses, tolbooth,
market-cross, weekly market and two yearly fairs ;
but the deed was never carried into effect.
ARDGOUR, or Akdgower, a district in the ex-
treme north of the mainland of Argyleshire. It is
bounded on the north-west by Loch Shiel, and on
the. north and east by Loch Eil. There is an ex-
cellent road from Loch Moydart to the Corran of
Ardgour; and from the latter place there is a ferry
across Loch Eil to the military road from Fort-Wil-
liam to the Low country. See articles Shiel (Loch),
and Eil (Locn). In 1829 a church was erected here
by the parliamentary commissioners. See article
Ballachulish.
ARDGOWAN. See Ixxerktp.
ARDINCAPLE. See Eow.
ARDINNING, a lake, of about 60 acres in area,
in the parish of Strathblane, Stirlingshire.
ARDINTENNY, a village, with a post office, in
the parish of Kilmun, Argyleshire. It stands on
the west side of Loch Long, 4 miles from Strone
ferry at the mouth of that Loch, and 12 miles from
Strachur on Loch Fyne. Its site is a spit of low
ground, zoned with verdure, at the base of steep,
lofty, and picturesquely wooded mountains. The
village has of late been considerably enlarged for
the accommodation of summer sea-bathers ; and it
is a regular calling-place of the Glasgow steamers
to Loch Goil and Arrochar. A regular ferry also
plies between it and Colport, on the opposite shore
of Loch Long; and a road leads from it, among
the mountains, by way of Loch Eck to Strachur.
The village has now a chapel of ease. Glenfinnart
House, A.Douglas, Esq., is in the vicinity. "The lass
o' Ardintenny " is a well-known song of Tannahill;
but, as to both person and place, was probably a
mere fancy-piece.
ARDKI NGLASS. See Lochgoilhead.
ARDLAMONT, a headland of Argyleshire, be-
tween the kyles of Bute and the mouth of Loch
Fyne. It is 6 miles north-east from Skipnish, the
opposite point on the western side of the loch.
ARDLE (The). See Airdle (The).
ARDLER, a station on the Scottish Midland
Junction Railway, 2 miles from Cupar-Angus, and
5 miles from Newtyle, on the south-west border of
Forfarshire.
ARDMADDY, in Nether Lom, at the southern
entrance of the singularly intricate and narrow chan-
nel, or kyle, between the island of Seil and the
mainland of Argyleshire. There is a small bay
here, the shores of which are bold, and finely wooded.
Pennant was hospitably received at Ardmaddy
house, and has thrown his reflections on the condi-
tion of the Highland peasantry into the form of a
vision with which he represents himself as having
been favoured here. [See Second Tour, in Kerr's
Collection of Voyages and Travels, vol. iii. pp. 357
— 360.] A quarry of white marble veined with red
exists here.
ARDMEANACH, or The Black Isle, the large
peninsula between the Moray frith and the Cromarty
frith. It comprises 8 parishes, and is distributed
among the counties of Cromarty, Eoss, and Nairn.
It consists for the most part of a series of sandstone
ridges, and has, from almost end to end, a broad-
backed hilly summit. See Mullbuy. It lay, till
somewhat recent times, in a dismally bleak and
ARDMINISH.
70
ARDNAMURCHAN.
moorish condition ; but is now extensively cultivated
and well-intersected by roads.
AEDMHEEIGIE. See ARDvERiurE.
ARDMINISH, a bay about the middle of the east
side of the island of Gigka, Argyleshire. It has
good anchorage, in depths of 6 or 7 fathoms, and is
frequented by vessels bringing coals, lime, and other
imports, and taking away the produce of the island.
At the head of it stand the parish church and the
manse.
AEDMOEE, a low, wooded, beautiful promon-
tory, in the parish of Cardross, Dumbartonshire. Its
head is a circular, soil-clad rock of about 40 feet in
height, popularly called the Hill of Ardmore; and
the rest of its surface is flat alluvium, lying very
little above the level of high-water, and connected
by a narrow isthmus with the mainland. The whole
promontory is a conspicuous feature in the magnifi-
cent, lagoon-like scenery of the upper frith of the
Clyde. See Helensburgh. The mansion of Ard-
more is a pleasant modern building.
AEDMOEE, a headland, a bay, and some small
islands, on the east side of the island of Islay, and
in the parish of Kildalton, Argyleshire.
AEDMOEE, a headland in the Vatemish district
of the west side of the island of Skye, Invemess-
shire. A hostile party of the Macdonalds of Uist
once landed here while many of the Macleods of
Skye were assembled in the adjacent church of
Trumpan, and they suddenly surrounded the build-
ing, set fire to it, and destroyed nearly all who were
in it ; but before they got hack to their boats, aven-
gers came pouring down at the call of " the fiery
cross," and slew the greater number of them on the
beach.
AEDMOEE, a harbour on the south side of the
Dornoch frith, and within the parish of Eddertoun,
Eoss-shire. It affords accommodation to vessels of
150 tons burden; and is frequented in summer by
smacks and schooners, chiefly with cargoes of coals
and lime.
AEDMUCENISH. See Aikds.
AEDNACEOSS, an estate and a small bay, in the
parish of Campbellton, and east side of Kintyre,
Argyleshire. The bay is 6 miles north-east of the
town of Campbellton, and affords anchorage to ves-
AEDNAFUAEAN. See Arasaig.
AEDNAMUECHAN, a bold and broad promon-
tory, at the extreme north-west of the mainland of
Argyleshire. It is the most westerly ground of the
mainland of Scotland; and from the time of Somerled
the Great till the reign of James VI., it constituted
the political division between the Northern and the
Southern Hebrides. Its name means the headland
of the narrow seas, and is strikingly descriptive; for
not a more conspicuous or terrible promontory exists
among the many sounds and expanses which wash
the coasts of Scotland. The shores around it are
rugged, and have been the rain of multitudes of
vessels ; and all the seaboard contiguous to it, for a
long distance both coastwise and inland, is mountain-
ous and bleak and wild. A lighthouse was built on
the point of the promontory in 1849. " It is situated
in north latitude 56° 43' 45", and west longitude 6°
13' 30"; and it bears from Calliach Head north-east
J east, distant 7 miles; from the Cairns of Coll,
east-south-ea st, distant 8 miles ; from Eana Head,
south j east, distant 30 miles ; from Scour of Eigg,
south-west, by south f west, distant 11 miles; and
from Bo-Askadil Bock, west-south-west, distant 7
miles. The light is a fixed one, and of the natural
appearance. It is visible in a north-westerly direc-
tion from north-east by east | east round to south-
west by south. The lantern is elevated 180 feet
above the level of the sea; and the light is seen a(
the distance of about six leagues, and at lesser dis-
tances according to the state of the atmosphere."
AEDNAMUECHAN, a large highland parish on
the west side of the mainland of Argyleshire and
Inverness-shire. It contains the promontory of
Ardnamurchan, and takes name from it; and it
contains also the three post-office stations of Kil-
choan, Strontian, and Arasaig. So late as the year
1630, the most westerly district, or that of the pen-
insula which terminates in the promontory of Ard-
namurchan, constituted a separate parish called
Kilehoan, from a church of that name dedicated to
St. Coan ; while the other districts formed a second
parish, under the name of Eileinfinnan or Island
Finan, from a beautiful little island in Loch Sheil,
then the residence of the minister, and site of the
principal church. In still more ancient times, the
two most northern districts probably formed a third
parish, named Kill-Maria, or Kilmarie, after a
church — some vestiges of which still remain at
Keppoch in Arasaig — dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
The present parish comprehends five several dis-
tricts, or countries, as they are here called, viz.:
1st., Ardnamurchan Proper, or the old parish of
Kilehoan, which is 16 miles in length, and 4^ miles
in its mean breadth; — 2d, Sunart, which is 12 miles
by 6; — 3d, Moydart, which is 18 miles by 7; — 4th,
Arasaig; — and 5th, South Morar. The two first
of these districts are in the shire of Argyle; and
they join at Tarbert in an isthmus of about 2 miles
in breadth, extending from Salen, a creek on the
north side of Loch Sunart, to Kinira bay; and ex-
tend in one range from east to west. The others
are in the shire of Inverness, and lie parallel to
each other and to Sunart, from which Moydart is
separated by Loch Sheil; the river Sheil being the
boundary between the north-east corner of Ardna-
murchan Proper, and the south-west of Moydart, for
about 3 miles, to its fall into the sea at Castle Tio-
ram. The greatest length of the entire parish, cal-
culating by the nearest road, is not less than 70
miles; its greatest breadth, 40. It is computed to
contain 273,280 acres of land and water; of which,
it is believed, about 200,000 acres are land. It
consists principally of moors and mountains and
hills, in general more ragged and precipitous than
of great elevation, the highest not exceeding 3,000
feet. There is a considerable extent of oak-coppice
on the shores of Loch Sunart. There are large
tracts of moss, and vast tracts of moorland wastes ;
yet the scenery, as a whole, — or at least the most
accessible portions of it along the glens, — cannot
be called bare; and the pasturage, as compared
with that of Mull, is rich and thrifty. The fisheries
are numerous and various, but have hitherto yielded
vastly less produce than might be expected. Quar-
ries and mines are worked at Laga and Strontian, —
the former a hamlet overhung by lofty mountains
on the shores of Loch Sunart, and the latter to be
noticed in a separate article. The value of assessed
property in 1843 was £6,894 6s. The most inter-
esting antiquity is described in the article Mingarry
Castle; and the several great districts and sheets
of water in the articles Sunart, Moydart, Arasaig,
Moear, Glenfinnan, Sunart (Loch), and Sheil
(Loch). Castle Tioram was burned in 1715, since
which time it has been in ruins. The houses of Kin-
loch-Moidart (since rebuilt in an elegant stlye by
Colonel Donald Macdonald), and Morar, together with
every hut which they could discover, were burned by
the king's troops in 1746, who also destroyed all the
stock of cattle. One excellent road leads from Stron-
tian to Corran Ferry, and another leads from Arasaig
to Fort William ; but, in general, inland communica-
ARDOCH.
71
ARDROSSAN.
tion is much impeded by bridgeless rivers, marshy
grounds, and want of roads. Several good harbours
exist both on the outer coasts and within the sca-
lochs; but they are comparatively little used. The
main marketing of the pariah is done either across
the Sound of Mull with Tobermory, or by the Skye
and Long Island steamers with Glasgow. Popula-
tion of the entire parish in 1831, 5,669; in 1861,
4,700. Houses, 801. Population of the Inverness-
shire district in 1831, 2,358; in 1861, 1,917
Houses, 326.
This parish is in the presbytery of Mull and
synod of Argyle. Patron, the Duke of Argyle.
Stipend, £228 4s. 4d., with a manse and glebe.
The parish church was built in 1830, and has 600
sittings. An assistant minister has under bis
charge the greater part of Moydart, and the whole
of Arasaig and South Morar, and officiates in two
places of worship, 46 and 56 miles distant from the
parish church, the one a thatched house at Polnish,
and the other a school-house at Ardnafuaran.
Stipend, £88 lis. Id., with £5 for communion ele-
ments. A missionary on the Eoyal Bounty, with a
salary of £60, has charge of the district of Laga, 10
or 12 miles in extent along Loch Sunart, and
preaches in a thatched house midway between the
parish church and the church of Aeharaele. Two
ministers, each with a government church and a
manse, have charge of the large districts of Ach-
aracle and Stroxtiax: see these articles. There
was a Free church preaching station in Ardnamur-
clian Proper ; and the yearly sum raised in connex-
ion with it in 1853 was £8 6s. 7d. There are two
Free churches, — one for Aeharaele and Moydart, and
the other for Strontian. The salary of the parochial
schoolmaster of Arduamurchan was raised to £50.
There are also a school at Strontian, two Assem-
blv's schools, and three other schools.
ARDNEIL. See Kilbride- West.
ARDO. See Baxchory-Davextck.
ARDOCH, a village in the parish of Muthill,
Perthshire. It stands on the river Knaik and on
the road from Stirling to Crieff, 4A miles south-west
of the village of Muthill, and 12 miles north by east
of Stirling. It is sometimes called Braco from the
estate of which it is feued. A Chapel of Ease was
built here in 17S0, and contains 600 sittings. Here
also is a Free church ; and the yearly sum raised in
connexion with this in 1865 was £177 Is. 7d. An
United Presbyterian church stands about li mile to
the south. The village contains a subscription
library; and is a thriving place. Fairs are held on
the first AVednesday of January, on the last Tues-
day of April, on the first Tuesday of August, and
on the last Tuesday of October. Population, in
1861, 807.
A large Roman camp at Ardoch has been an ob-
ject of inteuse interest to all Scottish antiquaries,
and the subject of high controversies among them ;
and is both one of the largest and one of the best
preserved antiquities of its class in Britain. It
closely adjoins the village, and is intersected by the
highway. " The situation of it," says the writer of
the Old Statistical Account of Muthill, " gave it
many advantages ; being on the north-west side of
a deep moss that runs a long way eastward. On
the west side, it is partly defended by the steep
bank of the water of Knaik ; which bank rises per-
pendicularly between forty and fifty feet. The
north and east sides were most exposed ; and there
we find very particular care was taken to secure
them. The ground on the east is pretty regular,
and descends by a gentle slope from the lines of for-
tification, which, on that side, consist of five rows
of ditches, perfectly entire, and running parallel to
one another. These altogether arc about fifty-five
yards in breadth. On the north side, there is an
equal number of lines and ditches, but twenty yards
broader than the former. On the west, besides the)
steep precipices above mentioned, it was defended
by at least two ditches. One is still visible ; the
others have probably been filled up, in making the
great military road from Stirling to the North. The
side of the camp, lying to the southward, exhibits to
the antiquary a less pleasing prospect. Here the
peasant's nigged band has laid in ruins a great part
of the lines ; so that it may be with propriety said,
in the words of a Latin poet, ' Jam seges est, ubi
Troja fait.' The area of the camp is an oblong of
140 yards, by 125 within the lines. The general's
quarter rises above the level of the camp, but is not
in the centre. It is a regular square, each side
being exactly twenty yards. At present it exhibits
evident marks of having been enclosed with a stone
wall, and contains the foundation of a bouse, ten
yards by seven. That a place of worship has been
erected here, is not improbable, as it has obtained
the name of Chapel-hill from time immemorial."
The reporter goes on to state that there are other
two encampments adjoining, having a communi-
cation with one another and containing above 130
acres of ground These, he thinks, were probably
intended for the cavalry and auxiliaries.
ARDPATRICK, a headland at the north side of
the entrance of West Loch Tarbert, and at the
south-western extremity of Kiapdale, Argyleshire.
Tradition asserts that St. Patrick landed here on his
way from Ireland to Iona.
ARDRISHAIGr, a small sea-port and post-town,
in the parish of South Knapdale, Argyleshire. It
stands at the east end of the Crinan canal, about 2
miles from Lochgilphead. It has a handsome re-
cently-built hotel, and two places of worship, Estab-
lished and Episcopalian ; and it partakes in the in-
stitutions and marketingsof Lochgilphead. Its inhab-
itants are supported principally by the Loch-Fyne
herring fishery, by the traffic through the canal, and
by the resort of steamers from Glasgow. Upwards
of 100 fishing boats sometimes frequent the har-
bour during the fishing season ; and commonly three
steamers daily during summer, and either one or
two during winter, ply between this and Glasgow,
irrespective of those which pass through the canal.
The quantity of sheep and cattle shipped here is
considerable. On Wednesday, August 18th, 1847,
the Queen and Prince Albert landed here, in their
voyage from Inverary to Invemess-shire, and were
welcomed by an immense and enthusiastic con-
course of people. From the quay the royal party
proceeded by a road about 200 yards in length,
specially constructed for the occasion, and leading
between a double row of trees, to the canal bank,
where the royal barge was in waiting to convey
them to the Victoria and Albert yacht, which, hav-
ing rounded the Mull of Kintyre, lay at anchor in
Crinan bay. Population in 1861, 902.
ARDROSS, a mountainous district, between Al-
ness Water and Rorie Water, on the east side of
Ross- shire. It was the early residence and fastness
of the great clan Ross, and is now the property of
Alexander Matbeson, Esq.
ARDROSS, a barony in Fifeshire. See Ely.
ARDROSSAN, a parish, containing the sea-port
town of Ardrossan, and part of the sea-port town of
Saltcoats, in the district of Cunningham, Ayrshire.
It is bounded on the south-west by the frith of Clyde,
and on the other sides by the parishes of West Kil-
bride, Dairy, Kilwinning, and Stevenston. Its
greatest length is 6 miles, and its greatest breadth
3J. The extent of sea-coast is about 4 miles. The
ARDROSSAN.
72
ARDROSSAN.
north-west quailer of the parish, between Ardrossan
and Kilbride, is hilly; the highest hill in this quar-
ter is Knockgeorgan, or Knockgargon, which rises
700 feet above sea-level. A very extensive and
magnificent prospect of the frith of Clyde and its
sea-boards and the mountains of Arran is seen
from most parts of the parish, and looks particularly
brilliant from Knockgeorgan. The principal streams
are the Munnock or Caddel-burn, which rises in Kil-
bride, and flows eastward into the Gaaf ; and the
Stanley and Monfode burns, which flow southwards
into the sea near Ardrossan. The soil is in general
light and fertile. Aiton estimates the area of the
parish at 9,000 Scots acres, and the real rent, in 1809,
at £6,098. The Statistical reporter, in 1S37, esti-
mates the area at only 5,520 Scots acres ; and the
real rent at £7,800, being an average of 30s. per
acre. The parish is intersected by three main lines
of road ; two of which run between Dairy and Ar-
drossan, and Dairy and Saltcoats, while the third, or
coast-line, connects Saltcoats and Ardrossan. A
railway from Ardrossan to Kilwinning was opened
in 1832. This railway was executed by the pro-
jectors of the Glasgow and Ardrossan canal. As
originally executed it was a single line worked by
horses, extending 5£ miles, with branches of about
6J miles. This line, improved and doubled, now
forms a locomotive engine line ; and the railway
distance from Glasgow to Ardrossan, is 31J miles.
In 1846, an act was obtained, but lies in abeyance,
for extending the Glasgow and Neilston railway
to the town of Kilmarnock, and to Ardrossan har-
bour. Limestone is extensively quarried in the up-
per part of the parish ; coal is believed to be abun-
dant, but is not worked ; and building stones, both
good and beautiful, are very plenteous, and have
both been quarried almost where tfiey were wanted,
and brought by railway from Stevenston. A low
island of about 12 acres, with good pasture, lies
about a mile north-west of Ardrossan town, and af-
fords some shelter to the harbour ; and a beacon-
tower was erected on it, but has long been out of use.
Upwards of two-thirds of the parish is the property
of the Earl of Eglinton; and the rest lies distributed
among nine proprietors. Population in 1831, 3,494;
in 1861, 6,776. Houses, 682. Assessed property in
1843, £11,774 13s. 10d.; in 1860, £23,077.
This parish is in the presbytery of Irvine, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Earl of
Eglinton. Stipend, £261 Is. 3d., with a manse and
glebe. Unappropriated teinds, £676 lis. lid. _ The
original parish church stood on the Castle-hill of
Ardrossan, and was overwhelmed by a storm in
1691; its successor of the next half-century stood
on a sheltered site about half a mile inland ; and the
next was built in 1773 in the town of Saltcoats, and
contains 840 sittings. But in 1844, there was built
at Ardrossan, a handsome new church, with a fine
spire, at a cost of upwards of £3,000 ; and in March
1851, this was constituted by the Court of Teinds a
separate parish church, under the name of New Ar-
drossan. The right of presentation to it is vested in
eight trustees. There is a Free church at Ardrossan;
a Gothic edifice with a spire, built in 1859, at a cost
of £2,000; and the yearly sum raised in connexion
with it, in 1865, was £234 5s. 5Jd. There is also a
Free church, a Gaelic one, at the west end of Salt-
coats; it was originally connected with the Estab-
lishment, and was built about 1838 ; it is a neat Gothic
structure, with Saxon door-way and small belfry,
and contains 720 sittings; and the yearly sum raised
in connexion with it, in 1865, was £88 3s. 3£d. A
United Presbyterian church is in Ardrossan, built in
1857, at a cost of £1,300 ; and another United Pres-
byterian church is in the Saltcoats part of Ardrossan
parish, was built in 1865-6, is a very handsome
edifice, and succeeded a previous church of 1790. An
Independent chapel also is in Ardrossan, and was
built in 1861, at a cost of £550. The parochial
schoolmaster's salary is £60.
The Town op Ahdeossan stands about 1 mile
north-west of Saltcoats, 5J miles south-west of Kil-
winning, and 31£ south-west of Glasgow. It an-
ciently consisted of a baronial castle, a church, and
a small fishing village, — all situated on a slightly
elevated promontory, or small low projecting hill.
How early it existed is not known ; but both castle
and village were at least contemporaneous with Sir
William Wallace, and were the scene of one of his
exploits. The castle being in possession of the
English, Wallace, with some of his men, came
stealthily by night, and set fire to the village as a
lure to draw the garrison out ; and while they ran
to quench the fire, he and his men entered the castle,
slew the English as they returned, and threw their
corpses into the dungeon, which thence got the
name of Wallace's Larder. The castle continued
for ages after to be habitable, but was at length de-
stroyed by Oliver Cromwell; and only slight ves-
tiges of it now remain. An ancient proprietor of it,
before it passed into the possession of Lord Eglin ton's
ancestors, was popularly reputed to be a warlock,
and figures in some wild old legends as the Deil o'
Ardrossan. Within the area of the original parish
church lies an ancient tombstone which popular be-
lief associates with him. " On this is sculptured
the figure of a man at full length, with two shields
of arms laid over him. One appears to represent
the royal arms of Scotland, being the lion rampant
— the other is probably the escutcheon of the de-
ceased. Before the building of the new town, this
was an exceedingly secluded spot, and the supersti-
tious dread which was entertained for the sanctuary
of ' the Deil o' Ardrossan ' was very great. It was
believed that were any portion of the ' moidd ' to
be taken from under this stone, and cast into the
sea, forthwith would ensue a dreadful tempest to
devastate sea and land."
The modem town originated in special exer-
tions of the 12th Earl of Eglinton. His lordship's
idea was to make it the port of Glasgow. Steam
navigation and steam-tugging were then unknown ;
the navigation of the parts of the frith of Clyde
above the Cumbraes was often baffling and tedious ;
the navigation of the river above Port-Glasgow was
practicable only for small vessels and with great
difficulty ; and it seemed to the Earl of Eglinton and
to several rich gentlemen who co-operated with him,
that if Ardrossan were connected with Glasgow by
a canal, and were provided with a deep and capa-
cious harbour, it could not fail to attract to itself the
greater part of the sea-business which was then
done at Greenock and Port-Glasgow, and perhaps
give rise to a good deal more. The canal was to be
cut from the suburb of Tradeston at Glasgow, by
way of Paisley and Johnstone, a distance of nearly
31 miles to Ardrossan, and was estimated to cost
£125,900; but, though promptly commenced at the
Tradeston end, it never was executed farther than
to Johnstone. The harbour was projected on a
most magnificent design, such as would have made
it scarcely inferior to any in the kingdom, and was
commenced with great ceremony on the 31st of July
1806. But the estimated cost of it proved to be
enormously under the mark; yet the Earl drove it
forward with great energy of purpose and with vast
personal sacrifice, till near the end of his life ; and
in 1815, four years before he died, and after upwards
of £100,000 had been expended on it, Messrs. Telford
& Bennie reported that £300,000 more would be re-
ARDROSSAN.
73
ARDVERIKIE.
quisite to complete it. The works were for a long-
time suspended; but after the thirteenth Karl came of
age, they were resumed on a scale of less extent,
but still of great value; and now they are complete.
The harbour is at once capacious, commodious, and
well-sheltered; and there is a lighthouse with a fixed
light on the north-oast breakwater. A railway, as
formerly stated, was projected to connect the har-
bour of Ardrossan with the canal at Johnstone; but
it could not be executed farther than Kilwinning,
and served for some years chiefly for bringing coals
to the harbour. But now, under the name of the
Ardrossan railway, and in connexion with the Glas-
gow and Ayr railway, it is one of the busiest lines
In Scotland', and is serving largely and brilliantly,
though in a very different way than was then
dreamed of, some of the very purposes which were
sought to be served by the original scheme of the
canal.
The modern town itself was commenced about the
same time as the harbour, and has been dependent
on it for prosperity. It is built on a regular plan,
with streets wide, straight, and crossing one another
at right angles, and edificed chiefly with neat, well-
finished, two-story houses. The plan comprises also
a crescent, of splendid design, around the fine sweep-
ing bay on the east side of the town toward Salt-
coats. There are many handsome villas, varied in
style, but all more or less tasteful; and there is an
elegant occasional residence of Lord Eglinton, called
the pavilion. There is also a large and good-looking
edifice, built for baths on the tontine principle in
1807, — allowed for a time to go to disuse and decay,
but refitted in 1833. The chief inn is a very com-
modious one called the Eglinton Arms. The several
churches have a fine appearance ; and the whole
place looks cleanly, cheerful, and prosperous. The
town contains the sessional school, a private school,
two ladies' schools, a school of industry, a post-
office, a stamp-office, offices of the Bank of Scot-
land, of the Eoyal Bank, and of the City of Glasgow
Bank, a number of insurance offices, a gas company,
a bowling club, a curling club, a farmers' society, an
artillery volunteer corps, and a total abstinence so-
ciety. Ardrossan possesses great attractions as a
bathing-place, and is now one of the much frequented
summer resorts on the frith of Clyde. Fairs are
held on the Tuesday before Ayr July fair, and on
the fourth Thursday of November ; and a projected
annual tryst of two days in July, for sheep, wool,
and cattle, was begun in 1846, but has ceased. The
harbour, even while lying in the incomplete state in
which the late Earl left it, was capable of accommo-
dating a great number of vessels of almost any size,
and was secure against almost every wind, and was
often crowded in rough weather with vessels which
ran to it for shelter. A considerable coasting-trade
became steadily established at it, chiefly in the ex-
port of coals and cost iron; and since the opening
of the Glasgow and Ayr railway, steamers have
regularly sailed from it to Arran and Belfast.
Within the year 1864 no less than 237,527 tons of
^.ast iron were shipped here. In 1849, when the
route of the Scottish mails to Ireland by way of
Portpatrick to Donaghadee was given up, and a
route was adopted from the Clyde to Belfast, multi-
tudes of persons, who had no particular interest in
the matter, were astonished that Ardrossan was not
made the packet-station; and, as to all the main cir-
cumstances of directness, speed, and safety, it cer-
tainly seems decidedly superior to Greenock. Popu-
lation of the town in 1837, about 920; in 1861 3 192
Mouses 249.
AEDROSSAN (New). See Ardkossas.
AKDEOSSER. See Ardersier.
AKDSII1EL, the seat of a chief cadet of the
Stewarts of Appin, on the southern shore of the
Linuhc-loch, near Kentalen bay, and about 3 miles
from Ballachulish ferry at the mouth of Loch Lcven.
Stewart of Ardshiel was among the foremost who
espoused the cause of Prince Charles in 1745; and,
like many of his brother-outlaws, had to consult his
safety by retiring to a remarkable cave in this neigh-
bourhood. The mouth of the cavern is singularly
protected by a waterfall which descends like a crys
tal curtain in front of it, but through which no
traces of such an excavation are perceptible.
ABDSTINCHAB, an old castle, anciently the
seat of a branch of the Bargany family, on the river
Stinchar, a little above the village of Ballantrae,
Ayrshire. From its situation in a narrow pass com-
manding two entrances into Carrick, — that along
the shore, and that which leads up the river and
across the country to Girvan, — this fortalice must
have been of considerable importance in remoter
ages. Pitcairn, in his History of the House of Ken-
nedy,' gives some curious information respecting it.
AEDTOENISH. See Artornish.
AEDUTHIE, an estate in the parish of Fettei
esso, Kincardineshire. The new town of Stoneha-
ven is built upon it, and was originally called Ar
duthie, and is still sometimes called the Links of
Arduthie. See Stoxehaven.
AEDVASAR. See Aruavasar.
AEDVEEIKIE,ashooting-lodge,builtbytheMar-
quis of Abercorn, on the banks of Loch-Laggan in
Inverness-shire, which has obtained great and un-
expected notoriety from having been occupied by
Her Majesty and suite for a few weeks in the months
of August and September, 1847. It occupies a green
flat at the head of a little bay formed by one of the
wooded promontories which jut into the loch. It
was erected by the Marquis about 1840 ; and is a
plain unostentatious building, rather irregular in its
con struction, — the windows, roof, and chimney-stalks
a good deal in the cottage-style, and the whole suiting
pretty closely one's idea of what quarters for the ac-
commodation of a large shooting-party ought to be.
The lodge is built close to the loch, the water flow-
ing up almost to the walls on three sides of the
building. For a shooting-box, as we have before
remarked, the house is remarkably large and com-
modious. It has the appearance of being built at
different times, as convenience dictated, one addition
succeeding another, until, in the course of time, as
might be supposed, an originally small square cot-
tage had swelled out and covered the whole promon-
tory. Its narrow windows — one hundred in num-
ber, and each of the front windows surmounted with
a deer's head and antlers — add to the impression
that the lodge is an antique structure, but in reality
it is quite modem, and the masonry, though not the
architecture, bears the stamp of yesterday. The
gardens attached to the lodge are extensive and
well managed, producing all the fruits and flowers
of the country; and a fine lawn, with clumps of
trees, gives a baronial aspect to the spot. A num-
ber of marquees were placed on the green, at proper
distances from the lodge, in order to accommodate
the servants of the royal visitors.— The interior of
the lodge corresponds pretty closely with its exter-
nal appearance, — the rooms being more comfortable
than spacious, and their chief decoration being the
antlers of deer shot in the surrounding forest. On
the bare walls of two of the principal apartments
are roughly sketched, by the masterly hand of
Landseer, several of his best known and finest pro-
ductions, and among them 'The Challenge,' and
' The Stag at Bay.' There is a splendid collection
of stags' heads in the long corridor from which the
ARDVERIKIE.
74
ARGYLE.
rooms on the ground-floor are approached. Many
of these have thirteen and fourteen points; the
greater number are royal heads, and to none would
the most experienced deer-stalker take exception.
The ornaments of the corridor are also those of
the bed- rooms above stairs, in each of which,
placed directly above the chimney-piece, the highly
polished osfronth of a deer, surmounted by a pair of
branching antlers, invites the wearied sportsman to
dream of the adventures which await him among
the corries and passes of the forest next morning. —
The surrounding scenery is quite in keeping with
the style of the lodge and its internal arrangements.
The loeh in front is a sheet of water about eight
miles in length, with less than the usual comple-
ment of islands on its surface, and possessing no-
thing in its appearance which raises it above medio-
crity among the list of Highland lakes. See Laggan
(Loch). Yet, apart from scenic effect, it is not
without claims to consideration; for it abounds
with quantities of the finest black trout; and of the
three little islands which stud its surface, the two
nearest the lodge have traditional associations which
invest them with no common interest. On one of
these, called Eilan-an-Bigh — ' the King's Island' —
are still visible from the windows of the lodge some
remains of rude masonry which the country people
say mark the residence of the ancient kings of Scot-
land, when they came to hunt in the adjoining
forests; and quite close to it is Eilan-an-Conn —
' the Dogs' Island' — which, as the name implies,
was used by these barbaric and sporting monarchs
as a kennel. The Gaelic name of the spot on
which the lodge stands connects these loose tradi-
tions with a very ancient and obscure portion of
Scottish history; for Ardverikie means, it is said,
' the residence of Fergus.' There is, however, very
fair ground for believing that the district of country
now occupied by the Marquis of Abereorn as a deer
forest, was in former times a favourite hunting-
ground with the Scottish kings. A mound is
pointed out in the garden round the lodge, covered
with fox-gloves, dockens, waving goose-grass, this-
tles, and a variety of other weeds, beneath which
the dust of Fergus and four other monarchs is said
to repose ; and really the place looks genuine
enough. We prefer, however, relying upon the
fact that the surrounding country has from time im-
memorial contained the most favourite haunts of the
red deer, and that in those wild times when the
Majesty of Scotland harboured principally in Inver-
ness-shire, their hunting propensities would natu-
rally lead them to the banks of Loch Laggan. — The
scenery about Ardverikie lodge is almost entirely
destitute of those abrupt and massive features, and
that bold outline, which give to the Lochaber hills
so noble and prominent a character; nor has it the
bleak, deserted, solitary appearance of the moors
which occupy the east of Badenoch; but the land
slopes gently up on each side of the loch, in gradu-
ally ascending heights clothed a good way from the
water's edge with birch, hazel, aspen, and mountain
ash, — the natural growth of the country, — and
opening as it ascends into spacious corries. Smooth
summits of plain unpretending outline terminate the
view, which has, infact, little except its natural and
unadorned character to recommend it. Her Ma-
jesty, however, could see from the windows of the
lodge patches of snow still lingering on Corarder;
and the unassuming grace of the woods, the bril-
liant verdure in which the brackens clothe the whole
scene, the unsophisticated air of everything around,
might not prove unacceptable after the stately mag-
nificence of Windsor-Park and the elaborate agri-
culture of the Home-Farm With respect to the
forest, it is as yet almost in its infancy; for though
in former times the number of deer on it was very
great, the introduction of sheep into this part of the
country about sixty years ago drove them off to
seek for cleaner pasture and more secure resting-
places. The ground which the lodge occupies has
been rented from Macpherson of Cluny , the proprie •
tor, by the Marquis of Abercom, on a long lease.
Its extent may be estimated from the fact that it
has a circumference of forty miles, and embraces
within its ample space, besides the large grazing-
ferms of Galovy and Camdanoch, Benalder, with its
numerous comes. The Marquis, upon obtaining
his lease, threw the farms once more into forest,
and introduced new herds of deer. It is said that
not less than from 9,000 to 10,000 sheep could be
kept on this extent of land, which is famous for the
richness of its pasture — has now, after a very few
years' preservation, a stock of more than 2,000 red
deer — and which, surrounded as it is by the for-
ests of Mar, Athol, Breadalbane, Gaick, the Mo-
nadh-Liadh, and Invereshie, must rapidly increase
its present numbers — Ardverikie is about 37 miles
from Fort- William, 16 from Dulmhenny the nearest
post, and 10 from the parish church of Laggan.
The road from Fort William to Laggan crosses the
mouth of Glennevis, and passes the old castle of
Inverlochy, still pretty entire. Funning through
Torlundy-moss, at the base of Ben-Nevis, it pro-
ceeds through a countiy little cultivated, but appa-
rently susceptible of much improvement. Only
here and there occurs a rig of com or of potatoes,
with a straggling cot-house nestled in a forest of
peat-stalks. At Spean-bridge, 9 miles on the way,
the road enters Glen-Spean. From Spean, as far as
Tullish, the strath is well-cultivated. The Spean-
water winds through a rocky channel, occasionally
hidden by groves of birch and oak. Bounded on
the north by the hills of Achnavitie and Eeinama-
gach, and on the south by the high bills of Unachan,
Lianaehan, and Ben-Chinaig, Strathspean presents
a landscape not often .surpassed in beauty. From
Tullish the road passes through a district exceed-
ingly barren : grey rocks and patches of luxuriant
heather, thrown about and intermingled as if from
the hand of a sower, form the basework of the scen-
ery. In a drive of 9 miles some three houses only
are to be seen, and two of the three are shepherds'
boothies. A mile or two from the west end of Loch
Laggan^ the road enters Badenoch. The drive
along the north shore is most delightful. The hills
slope abruptly down to the lake, and for several
hundred yards up, the hill-sides are covered with
weeping birches, fantastically - shaped oaks, and
mountain-ashes.
AEDVOIELICH. See Eakx (Loch).
AEDVEAICK. See Asstnt.
ABDWALLUM, a post-office station, subordinate
to Stranraer, Wigtonshire.
ABDWELL, an estate in the parish of Stonykirk,
Wigtonshire. It comprises a bay, a headland, and
other places of its own name, and is a centre of in-
fluence to a considerable surrounding district; and
at Ardwell inn is a post-office. See article Stont-
kikk.
AEGYLE, a district of Argyleshire. It is sepa-
rated from Lorn by Lochs Melfort, Avich, and Awe,
— from Knapdale, by Loch Gilp and the Crinan
Canal, — and from Cowal, by Loch Fyne. The name
Argyle is said to be derived from Earra Gheidheal,
'the countiy of the Western Gael;' and certainly
this district is well entitled to the name, both from
the eminent grandeur and romance of its highland
scenery, and from the number and prominence of
its old historical associations. See Ahay (The),
.:ou&Eointmrgli.
ARCxYLESHIRE.
75
ARGYLESIIIRE.
and Invehaiiy. Population of the district in 1831,
17,658; in 1851, 17,219. Houses 2,8(12.
ARGYLE'S BOWLING (.(KEEN, a group of
precipitous, rugged, lofty mountains, occupying the
peninsula between Loch Goil and Loch Long, on
the east border of Argylesliire. The mountains
have moro sternness, more savagencss, more true
sublimity, than any other group in this part of Scot-
land; and their shoulders and summits look in the
distance as if carved and contoured like statuary,
and they form a superb sky-line and a magnificent
background to the westward view from all the bosom
and most of the shores of the upper frith of Clyde.
See Long (Locii), and Roseneath.
ARGYLLSHIRE, an extensive county of the
south-west of Scotland. It comprehends several
large islands, as well as a considerable portion of
the mainland. The latter part is of a very irregu-
lar figure; and is bounded on the north by Inver-
ness-shire; on the east by the counties of Perth
and Dumbarton, and the frith of Clyde; on the
south by the Irish sea; and on the west by the
Atlantic ocean. According to Playfair, it lies be-
tween 55° 15' and 56° 55' N latitude, and 4° 32' and
6° 6' W longitude, and extends 90 miles from north
to south, and, in some places, upwards of 40 miles
from west to east. Its area, according to the same
authority, is about 2,400 square miles, or 1,536,000
English acres, exclusive of its islands. But this
county is intersected by so many inlets of the sea,
and has as yet been so imperfectly surveyed, that
no correct estimate can be formed of its extent. Dr.
Smith, in his ' Agricultural Survey of Argyleshire,'
estimates its utmost length, viz. from Loch Eil to
the midl of Kintyre, at 115 miles; and its breadth
from Ardnamurchan to the source of the Urchay,
or Orchy, at 138 miles. He also estimates the super-
ficial area, exclusive of the islands, at 2,735 square
miles ; while Sir John Sinclair has calculated it at
only 2,260 square miles. The islands belonging to
this shire bave a joint superficial area, according to
Dr. Smith, of 1,063 square miles; and, according to
Sir John Sinclair, of 929 square miles; making a
total area, according to the former, of 3,798; and,
according to the latter, of 3,189 square miles, or
2,002,560 English acres, being one-tentb of the
whole surface of Scotland. These admeasurements
must be regarded of course as mere approximations
to the actual area both of mainland and islands ; nor,
until the Trigonometrical Survey of Scotland is pub-
lished, is it worth while to attempt their rectification
from existing materials.
The northern division of the mainland of the
county is cut off by Loch Linnhe, and contains the
districts of Loeheil, Ardgour, Sunart, Ardnamurchan,
and Morvern; and the rest of the mainland com-
prises the five divisions of Lorn, between Loch
Liuuhe and Loch Awe, — Argyle, between Loch
Awe and Loch Fyne, — Cowal, between Locb Fyne
and the Frith of Clyde, — Knapdale, between tbe
Crinan Canal and the Lochs Tarbert, — and Kintyre,
all south of the Lochs Tarbert. The islands, with
the exception of a few small ones in the Clyde, lie
in three divisions: — 1. Mull, together with Canna,
Rum, Muiek, Coll, Tiree, Gometray, Ulva, Staffa,
Iona, and a number of adjacent islets; 2. The islands
of Lorn, the chief of which are Shuna and Lismore
within Loch Linnhe, and Ken-era, Seil, Easdale,
Living, Shuna, Lunga, and Scarba, very near the
western coast; and, 3. Jura and Islay, together
with Colonsay, Oronsay, Gigha, and some small ad-
jacent islets. But the whole county is politically
divided into six parts: — 1. Mull, comprehending the
districts of mainland north of Loch Linnhe and the
Mull group of islands; 2. Lorn, comprehending the
mainland division of Lorn and the Lorn islands; 3.
Argyle, or Inverary, identical with the mainland
division of Argyle; 4. Cowal, identical with the
mainland division of Cowal; 5. Kintyre, comprising
the peninsula and islets of Kintyre, and part of Knap-
dale ; and 6. Islay, comprehending the Jura and
Islay group of islands, and part of Knapdale.
The surface of a large portion of this great county
is either grandly picturesque or brilliantly romantic;
and very much of the mainland is an alternation of
bleak barren moorlands, rugged chains of mountains,
deep glens, winding inlets of the sea, and extensive
sheets of inland water. The northern and eastern
parts are peculiarly bleak, nigged, and mountain-
ous, but interspersed with narrow and sheltered
glens ; and the western section is very irregular in
its outline, and deeply indented by large bays or
lochs. The greater proportion of what may be called
arable land is composed of the level tracts along the
coasts. About one-eighth part of the surface is
under cultivation. The soil, according to Playfair,
consists of the following varieties : " 1. Gravel
mixed with vegetable mould, occurring chiefly in
the more lofty mountains, and along the banks of
the rivers which have their sources in these moun-
tains. 2. Peat-moss, occupying the extensive moors
and low grounds, from which the water does not
flow freely. 3. Decayed limestone. 4. Decayed
slate mixed with coarse limestone. Of the two last,
the former is a light soil, the latter more stiff; but
both are fertile, and found in tracts not greatly ele-
vated above the level of the sea. They form the
great mass of the soil in the fertile districts of Mid-
Lorn, Nether-Lom, Craignish, &c. 5. A barren
sandy soil, originating from freestone, or micaceous
schistus, prevalent in the westerly parts of the main-
land, and in some of the islands. Besides these,
other kinds of soil are found in this county; and
sometimes several species graduate insensibly into
one another. In general a light loam mixed with
sand, on a bottom of clay or gravel, prevails. On
the acclivities of tbe hills, the most common soil is
a light gravel on till. In the lower grounds, there
is sometimes a mixture of clay and moss, and some-
times a coat of black mossy earth. The soil appro-
priated to pasture is partly diy, and partly wet and
spongy ; a considerable proportion of what is either
flat or hilly is covered with heath. The summits ot
the highest hills are generally bare and barren
rocks."
Some of the mountains are vast isolated masses ;
but others form ranges and groups, many constitute
the main surface of entire districts, and not a few
present such competing appearances of height, mas-
siveness, and striking feature as make it difficult for
a topographer to select any one in preference to
others for specimen description. Some of the lofti-
est which have been measured are Ben-Craachan,
between Loch Etive and Loch Awe, 3,669 feet;
Benmore, in Mull, 3,168 feet; Cruach-Lussa, east-
ward of Loch-Swin, 3,000 feet; Beden-na-Bean, north
of the head of Loch Etive, 2,720 feet; the Paps of
Jura, 2,580 feet; Buachaille-Etive, overhanging
Glen-Etive, 2,537 feet; Ben-na-hua, on the north
side of Loch Linnhe, 2,515 feet; Ben-Arthur, or the
Cobbler, at the head of Loch Long, 2,389 feet; Ben-
More in Rum, 2,310 feet; and Ben-Tam, south of
Loeh Sunart, 2,306' feet.
The principal streams are the Urchay or Orchy,
and the Awe ; the former flowing into, the latter
flowing from Loch Awe. There are a multitude of
minor streams, more distinguished by the romantic
beauty of their course, than the volume of their
water or their length of course. Loch Awe is the
principal inland lake. See articles Awe (Loch),
AKGYLESHIRE.
76
ARGYLESHIRE.
and Oeciiy. The total area of the fresh water lakes
is ahout 52,000 square acres. The extent of marshy
and mossy ground must be very great. Natural
woods and plantations cover ahout 50,000 acres.
Limestone abounds in many parts of Argyleshire,
and seems to form the whole body of the large rich
island of Lismore, and there forms a durable cement
under water. Roofing-slates of excellent quality
form the body of the islands of Easdale, Luing, and
Seil, and also form a great tract of rock at Balla-
chulish in Appin, and are very extensively quarried
at both localities. Marble exists in various quar-
ters ; and granite is quarried near Inverary. Veins
of lead are frequent in the limestone and other strata ;
mines of this metal are wrought at Strontian, at
Tyndrum, and in Islay ; and in the latter island a vein
of copper is wrought, and the same mineral has been
found at Kilmartin. There is abundance of plum-
pudding stone at Oban, Dunstaffnage, and north-
wards along the coast. The species of earth, called
strontites, or strontian, was first discovered in the
district of Ardnamurchan in 1791. Coal is wrought
near Camphellton, and also occurs in the island of
Mull. Granite forms the great mountain-masses in
the north-east part of the county; but mica-slate
predominates in the geological features both of the
mainland and isles ; an extensive tract of porphyry
occurs on the north side of Loch Fyne; and floetz-
trap prevails in a few districts.
The climate of Argyleshire on the whole is mild,
but excessively humid. In the north-eastern quar-
ter, where the general elevation is greatest, it is
often very cold. The principal branch of rural in-
dustry is that of rearing cattle and sheep. The
quantity of grain produced, bears a small proportion
to the area. Oats are the principal grain raised,
but a large import of meal is required for the home-
consumption. Potatoes are very extensively culti-
vated, the poorest shieling having uniformly attached
to it a small patch of potato-ground. The cattle
reared here are of a small size, but highly esteemed
in the markets of the South, to which they are ex-
ported in immense numbers. The sheep are chiefly
of the Linton or black-faced breed ; and have on the
mainland displaced the homed cattle in most farms.
Red deer are still found in some of the forests; and
grouse and ptarmigans are plentiful.
The manufactures of this county are not great.
A large quantity of kelp used formerly to be an-
nually made along the shores, but it has been driven
out of the market by foreign barilla. The fisheries,
however, on the coast, and particularly in the lochs,
are productive and improving. The two principal
fishing-stations are Inverary and Campbellton; and
large quantities of herrings are caught and cured at
various stations along the coasts, and on the shores
of the different lochs. Some leather is manufac-
tured; coarse woollen yams, stuff's, and stockings,
are still made to a considerable extent ; and at Bun-
awe and in Islay are valuable manufactures of iron.
The general industry of the country, too, in getting
up all possible produce for the provision markets of
Greenock, Glasgow, and the places communicating
with them, is very great, and has been amazingly
stimulated by steam navigation. No similarly peo-
pled region in any other part of Britain is so per-
vadingly and ramifiedly plied with steam-vessels,
and the effect of this so early as 1832, when the
number of steam-vessels regularly plying in it was
scarcely one half of the number at present, was so
remarkable as to draw the following remarks from
the Messrs. Chambers, — in their Gazetteer of Scot-
land:— " It is evident, from the peculiar form of
Argyleshire, that it will always owe as much of the
benefit arising from a ready communication between
its near and distant parts, to improvements in watel
carriage, as to any extension of that by land. The
difficulty, indeed, of forming roads in a district so
serrated by the sea, and so blocked up by chains of
hills, is almost insurmountable ; hitherto there have
been only two or three roads in the county, skirting
along the banks of the lochs. The very barrier,
however, which mainly prevented communication in
the days of our fathers, has turned out to be the
highway in our own. By the never-to-he-sufficient-
ly-admired spirit of the city of Glasgow, about 20
steam-vessels are constantly employed in Conveying
passengers and goods to and fro, throughout the
country, and in transporting the country-produce to
market at that city. The effect of this grand engine,
even after so brief a period, is incalculable. It hap-
pens that, notwithstanding the immense extent of
the country, there is not a single dwelling-place
more than ten miles from the sea, nor a gentleman's
seat, (excepting those on the banks of Loch Awe,)
more than ten minutes walk from it. Every farmer,
therefore, eveiy gentleman, finds occasion to employ
steam-navigation. When this mode of conveyance
was in its infancy, it was generally supposed that
the little wealth, bold shores, and scattered popula-
tion of the county, kept it without the circle in which
its adoption was to become beneficial. It came,
however, to be attempted; and there is not now a
loch, bay, or inlet, but holds a daily, or at least
commands a weekly, communication with the low-
lands and the several districts of the country. By
this means, the fanners — even upon the smallest
scale — are encouraged to fatten stock which they
would never otherwise think of fattening; the fat-
tening of stock, again, causes them to improve their
arable land; the extra-profits enable them to buy
luxuries which, in their turn, communicate senti-
ments of taste, and open the mind to liberal ideas.
The comparative frequency, moreover, of their visits
to the lowlands causes the speedier introduction of
modern and improved systems of agriculture. Steam-
boats are, in short, at once the heralds and the causes
of eveiy kind of improvement in Argyleshire ; it is
no hyperbole to say, that they have in ten years
raised the value of land within the county twenty
per cent. Every thing connected with this inven-
tion, so far as Argyleshire is concerned, bears a de-
gree of romantic wonder strangely in contrast with
its mechanical and common-place character. It ac-
complishes, in this district, transitions and juxta-
positions almost as astonishing as those of an Arabian
tale. The Highlander, for instance, who spends his
general life amidst the wilds of Cowal, or upon the
hills of Appin, can descend in the morning from his
lonely home, and setting his foot about breakfast-
time on board a steam-boat at some neighbouring
promontory, suddenly finds himself in company, it
may be, with tourists from all parts of the earth ; he
sits at dinner between a Russian and an American ;
and, in the evening, he who slept last night amidst
the blue mists of Lorn, is traversing the gas-lighted
streets of Glasgow, or may, perhaps, have advanced
to Edinburgh itself, the polished, the enlightened,
the temple of modem intelligence. Reversing this
wonder, he who has all his life trod the beaten ways
of men, and never but in dreams seen that land of
hill and cloud whence of yore the blue-bonneted
Gael was wont to descend, to sweep folds or change
dynasties, can stand in the light of dawn amidst the
refined objects of a capital, and when the shades of
night have descended, finds himself in the very coun-
try of Ossiau, with the black lake lying in impertur-
bable serenity at his feet, and over his head the grey
hills that have never been touched by human foot.
Steam-boats, it may be said, bring the most dissirm-
ARGYLESH1RE.
ARGYLESHIRE.
l.ir ideas into conjunction, — make the rude Gael
shake hands with tlie most refined Lowlander, — and
cause the nineteenth and the first centuries to meet
together. No such lever was ever introduced to
raise and revolutionize the manners of a people, or
the resources of a country."
Previous to the abolition of the feudal system, in
1745, the obstacles to improvement either in agri-
culture or manufactures were quite insuperable in
this district of Scotland. The abolition of that sys-
tem,— the conversion of corn rents, or rents in kind
and services, into money rents, — the suppression of
smuggling, — the execution of the Caledonian and
Crinan canals, — -the formation of excellent lines of
road throughout the county under the auspices of
the parliamentary commissioners, — the more general
diffusion of education, — and the introduction of a
system of farming better adapted to the character
and capabilities of the soil and country, — have all
contributed to the improvement of this interesting-
district. But the main impulse has undoubtedly
been given to industry in this quarter of the coun-
try by the introduction of steam-navigation, and the
reciprocal intercourse which has consequently taken
place between all parts of Argyleshire and the
manufacturing districts of the west of Scotland.
The principal roads in Argyleshire are, 1st, the
road eastward across Lochiel, being part of the com-
munication from Arasaig to Fort-William ; 2d, the
road eastward from Arclnamurehan to Strontian and
Coran Ferry, leading thence to Fort- William and
the north sides of Loch Leven ; 3d, the road south-
westward and southward from Ballaclndish, along
the coast of Appin and Ardchattan, to Loch Etive ;
4th, the road eastward and southward from Balla-
chulish, through Glencoeand Glenorchy, to Tyndrum
and Dalmally ; 5th, the road eastward from Oban,
by Ben Cruachan and Dalmally, to Tyndrum, lead-
ing thence to Stirling and Dumbarton; 6th, the
road southward from the preceding at Taynuilt up
both sides of the middle and upper parts of Loch
Awe; 7th, the road southward from Dalmally to
Inverary ; 8th, the road eastward from Craignish
to Loch Fyne ; 9th, the road southward from Inver-
ary to Lochgilphead; 10th, four roads eastward
across Cowal, together with coast roads round much
of that district ; 11th, the roads along the coasts of
Knapdale and Kintyre, connecting Lochgilphead and
Ardrishaig with Tarbert and Campbellton; and 12th,
considerable lines of road in Mull, Jura, and Islay.
During the heat of the railway excitement, projects
were entertained for constructing a railway eastward
from Oban to Tyndrum, and thence to the head of
Lochlomond, and for constructing another north-
ward from that line to Loch Leven, and thence to
Fort- William, and along the great glen of Scotland;
and very sanguine hopes were cherished respecting
the success of the former, which it was computed
woidd extend 46 miles, and cost, for a single line of
rails, under £7,000 a-inile, or in total £322,000. The
Caledonian canal belongs for a brief way to the
north end of Argyleshire ; and the Crinan canal in-
sulates Knapdale and Kintyre from Argyle proper
and Lorn.
Inverary is the capital of Argyleshire ; Campbell-
ton and Oban are the other principal towns ; and
these three places are burghs, and unite with Ayr
and Irvine in Ayrshire, in sending a member to
parliament. The other towns and principal villages
are Tobermory in Mull, Lochgilphead at the bound •
ary between Argyle and Knapdale, Ardrishaig, 2
miles south of the former, Tarbert at the boundary
between Knapdale and Kintyre, Bowmore in Islay,
and Dunoon in Cowal. Some of the principal man-
sions are Inverary Castle, the. Duke of Argyle;
Kildalloig, Sir John Eytnn Campbell, Bart.; Stron-
tian, Sir James Miles Riddell, Bart.; Fassfern, Sir
Duncan Cameron, Bart.; Dunstatl'nage, Sir Angus
Campbell, Bart.; Kilmory, Sir John Powlett Orde,
Bart.; Sonthhall, John Campbell, Esq.; Kingerloch,
Charles H. Forbes, Esq.; Craignish; Ardgarton;
Dunderraw; Ardkinglass; Kilmartin; Strachur;
Saddle; Kilfinnan; Sanda; Lazie; and Askinsh.
The county sends a member to parliament; and its
constituency in 1864 was 1,914. The valued rent in
1751 was £12,466 5s. lOd. sterling. The annual value
of real property, as assessed in 1815, was £227,493;
and in 1843, £261,920. The total rental for 1847
was £268,079. The valuation for 1864-5 was
£345,179; and the assessment for that year, for police
and other purposes, was 2|d. per £\,
Previous to the equalization of weights and
measures, the Inverary boll of grain contained 4
firlots 7J per cent, above the standard, or 6
bushels, 1 peck, 9 pints, 10 cubic inches English;
and the boll of meal, at Inverary, 8 stone; at some
other parts 9 stone; and at Campbellton 10 stone.
The Campbellton potato peek weighed 56 lbs. avoird.,
and measured 9 English wine gallons; while the
Inverary peck measured only 6J gallons. The
customary pint contained 109*87 cubic inches; the
pound at Campbellton 16 oz., and at Inverary, 24;
the stone of butter, cheese, hay, lint, tallow, and
wool, was 24 lbs. avoird.; and the barrel of herrings
32 gallons English.
The population of the county in 1801, was 81,277 ;
in 1811, 86,541; in 1821, 97,316; in 1831, 100,973;
in 1S41, 97,371; in 1861, 83,S59. Inhabited houses
in 1861, 14,636; uninhabited, 639; building, 117.
The slow increase of the population from 1801 till
1831, and the subsequent fluctuation of it, may be
attributed partly to the limited nature of its terri-
torial resources; partly to the extensive emigration
which has taken place from this county chiefly to
Canada; and partly to the system so generally pur-
sued by the large proprietors of throwing several
small farms into the bands of one tenant, and dis-
countenancing any attempt at minute subdivision of
the soil. The number of crimes committed in Ar-
gyleshire, in 1863, was 101 ; the number of persons
confined in Inverary and Campbelton jails, 61 and 95 ;
and the average duration of their confinement, 28
and 31 days. The number of parishes assessed for
the poor, in 1S63, was 30 : the number of registered
poor, 3,856; the number of casual poor, 727; the
sum expended on the registered poor, £23,019; the
sum expended on the casual poor, £829.
One of the synods of the Established church bears
the name of Argyle, and comprises six presbyteries,
and has jurisdiction over all the parishes of Argyle-
shire, except one, and over five of the six parishes
of Buteshire ; and in 1S65 there were within the
bounds of its presbyteries 57 parochial charges,
(inclusive of quoad sacra parishes,) and 14 chapels
of ease. The Free church also has a synod
of Argyle, comprising 4 presbyteries ; and in 1865
there were within its bounds 40 churches and 14
preaching stations, and the yearly sum raised in
connexion with the whole was £10,633 8s. Oid.
The Scottish Episcopal church has a diocese of
Argyle and the Isles, comprising fourteen charges,
eight of which, as also the residence of the bishop,
are in Argyleshire. There are likewise in this
county seven places of worship belonging to the
United Presbyterian church, two belonging to the
Reformed Presbyterian church, two in connexion
with the Congregational Union of Scotland, and two
belonging to the Roman Catholic community. In
1837, there were 68 parochial schools, attended by
3,774 scholars; 4 other parochial schools, the at-
ARIENAS.
78
ARNPRIOR.
tendance at which was not reported; 130 private
schools, attended by 6,7G5 scholars; and 20 other
private schools, the attendance at which was not
reported.
Argyleshire was the scene of some of the great
early events which moulded both the political and the
ecclesiastical destinies of Scotland. See the articles
Dalriada and Iona, and the historical part of the
Introduction. It was much infested, in ancient
times, also, by the Norsemen and other predatory
intruders, and was, in consequence, the scene of
numerous battles and heroic achievements. The
deeds of Fingal and his heroes, too, — if we may re-
pose any confidence in the voice of tradition — were
mostly performed in this district; and numerous
monuments of the remotest antiquity still remain to
demonstrate the warlike spirit of its former inhabi-
tants. In the middle ages, the Macdougals of Lorn
held sway over Argyle and Mull; while the Mac-
donalds, Lords of the Isles, were supreme in Islay,
Kintyre, and the southern islands. These two
chiefs were almost independent thanes, until their
power was broken by the proceedings of James III.,
by the transference of Lorn through means of mar-
riage to the Stewart family, and by the erection of the
earldom of Argyle, in 1457, in favour of Campbell
of Lochawe. See the historical part of the article
Hebrides. The Campbells, under the able leading
of their line of distinguished chiefs, the " Maccal-
lum-More," soon got high ascendency, throughout
the county and beyond it, and thoroughly defeated
an insurrection of the Macdonalds in 1614 against
it, and have perfectly succeeded in maintaining it to
the present day, — insomuch that an enormous pre-
portion of the land is the property of Campbells,
while their two chief men, the descendants of Camp-
bell of Lochawe and Campbell of Glenorehy, the
Duke of Argyle and the Marquis of Breadalbane,
not only rule the county, but are among the most
powerful of the nobility of Britain. The dukedom
of Argyle was created in 1701 ; and the Duke of
Argyle is also Marquis of Lorn and Kintyre, Earl
of Campbell and Cowal, Viscount of Lochow and
Glenisla, and Baron Inverary, Mull, Morvern, and
Tiree, and also has two titles in the peerage of the
United Kingdom.
The antiquities of Argyleshire are many and
various. The chief ecclesiastical ones are those of
Iona, the priory of Oronsay, the priory of Ardchat-
tan, and the church of Kilmun. Some of the most
remarkable civil ones are Dunstaffnage castle, and
Dunelly castle, in Loch Etive, Kilchum castle at
the east end of Loch Awe, Artornish castle on the
sound of Mull, Mingarry castle in Ardnamurchan,
Dunoon castle on the east coast of Cowal, and
Skipnish castle in Kintyre. Old " duns " or Dan-
ish forts occur in different parts of the coast. Dru-
idical circles, more or less complete, are traceable in
some places. Among natural curiosities may be
named some singular caves in the parishes of Stra-
chur and Lochgoilhead, and the magnificent basaltic
colonnades of Ulva and Staffa,
ABIENAS (Loch), a small inland sheet of water
in the district of Morvern, Argyleshire. See Aline
(Loch).
ARINANGOUE, a village in the island of Coll,
Argyleshire. It stands about the middle of the
coast, and has a pretty safe harbour, with a pier.
The entrance of the harbour, however, is obstructed
with rocks. Population of the village, about 180.
AEINISKLE-FANK. See Kinloch-Ailart.
AKISAIG. See Arasaig.
AEITY. See Inverarity.
AEKEG. See Archaic.
AEKLE, an isolated, tapering, and picturesque
mountain, among the highlands of Edderachillis hi
Boss-shire.
AEMADALE, a post-town in the parish of Bath-
gate, Linlithgowshire, 2J miles west of Bathgate.
It has a station on the Bathgate and Airdiie rail-
way, an Established church, a Free church, an Epis-
copalian church, and a Wesleyan chapel. Popula-
tion in 1861, 2,504. Houses, 354.
AEMADALE-CASTLE, the seat of Lord Mac-
donald, about 1J mile from Ardarasan bay, in the
parish of Sleat, and island of Skye, Inverness-shire.
It is a modern Gothic oblong structure, with an oc-
tagonal tower on each side of the doorway, but com-
prises only a third of the original design of the
building; and it stands on a gentle slope, amid
wooded pleasure-grounds, and commands an exten-
sive view of the sublime and beauteous seaboard of
Glenelg, Knoydart, Morar, and Arasaig.
AEMlDALE, a rivulet, a bay, a fishing-village,
and a headland, on the coast of the parish of Farr,
to the west of Strathy, Sutherlandshire. The rivu-
let is only 4 or 5 miles long, but drains some of the
best land in the parish ; and the bay is one of the
safest landing-places on the north coast.
AENATE. See Moulds.
ARNCEOACH. See Carnbee.
AENGASK, a parish in the counties of Perth,
Kinross, and Fife. Its post-town is Kinross. It is
bounded by the parishes of Strathmiglo, Abernethy
Dron, Forgandenny, Forteviot, and Orwell. It has
a somewhat circular form, and is about 4 miles in
diameter. Its surface is wavingly and roundedly
hilly, lying among the Ochils, with summits of
from 600 to 800 feet above sea-level, varied and
pleasing in appearance, and commanding exten-
sive and beautiful prospects. The landowners who
have more than £50 a-year of land-value amount to
twenty-eight; and ten of them are resident. There
are two small villages, Damhead and Duncrivie;
and there are four corn-mills and a saw-mill. The
little river Farg and the road from Edinburgh to
Perth pass through the interior. See Glenfarg.
Population in 1831, 712; in 1861, 705. Houses,
161. Assessed property in 1865, £6,612 Is. 4d.
This paiish was in the presbytery of Perth, but
is now in that of Kinross, and in the synod of Fife.
Patrons, Burt and Wardlaw. Stipend, £178 19s.
lOd. with a manse and glebe. Schoolmaster's sal-
ary, £50, with about i)20 fees. The parish church
was built in 1806, and enlarged in 1821, and has
380 sittings. There is a Free church ; and the
yearly sum raised in connexion with it in 1865, was
£80 lis. There are also an endowed school, and
an adventure school. The original church of Arn-
gask was a chapel built for the accommodation of
the family of Balvaird and their dependants, and was
granted in 1282 to the Abbe}' of Cambuskenneth by
Gilbert de Frisley to whom the barony of Arngask
or Forgie belonged.
AENHALL. See Fettercairn.
AENIFOUL, a village in the parish of Glammis,
Forfarshire. Population, 73.
AENISDALE, a village in the parish of Glenelg,
Inverness-shire. It is situated on the side of Loch
Hourn, amid sublime scenery, about 13 miles south
of the village of Glenelg. A missionary of the
Eoyal Bounty preaches here every third Sabbath.
Population, about 600.
AENISH-POINT. See Stornoway.
AENISTON. See Temple and Borthwick.
AENOLD'S SEAT. See Tannadice.
AENOT. See Stow.
AENPEIOR, a village in the part of the parish
of Kippen which belongs to Perthshire. Population
96.
ARNTULLY
7!)
ARK AN.
ARNTULLY, an estate and a village, in the par-
ish el' Kinelaven, Perthshire. The estate has re-
cently undergone great improvements. The village
is situated 8 miles north of Perth, and inhabited by
linen-weavers, and is in a very declining condition.
Population, 1.7.1.
AROS, a streamlet, a bay, a post-office station,
and an old castle, on the east coast of the island of
Mull, 9 miles south-south-east of Tobermory and
18 north-north-west of Auclmacraig ferry. A road
leads hence 4 miles to the head of Loeh-na-Keal on
the west side of the island, iind thence 7 miles to
Laggan-Alva, the most convenient point of embarka-
tion for Iona and Staffa. The bay of Aros receives
the rivulet, and is capacious and wildly picturesque.
The old castle crowns a basaltic promontory on its
north side, and was a residence of the Lords of the
Isles. " Only two walls and part of a third are
standing; but they present an interesting memento
of the rude and gloomy grandeur of former days."
ARRADOUL. See" Ratiiven.
ARRAN, an island, in the frith of Clyde, forming
part of the shire of Bute. It lies in the mouth of
the frith, or in the centre of the large bay of the
Northern channel formed by the peninsula of Kin-
tyre on the west, and the Ayrshire coast on the east ;
from the former it is distant about 6 miles, and is
separated by the sound of Kilbrannan; from the lat-
ter, the average distance is about 13 miles, and the
channel betwixt them is distinguished from the
sound on the west of the island as being the frith of
Clyde. From the island of Bute on the north, the
least distance is 5 miles. Its greatest length, from
the Cock of Arran, on the north, to the Struey rocks
on the south, is about 26 miles; and the greatest
breadth, from Clachland's point on the east to Dri-
modune point on the west, is 12 miles. * The gen-
eral outline is that of an irregular ellipse, little
indented by bays or inlets. The largest indentation
if that of Lamlash hay betwixt Clachland's point
and King's cross point, on the east coast. Loch
Ranza, near the Cock, or northern extremity of the
island, is a very small inlet. Brodick bay, a little
to the north of Lamlash bay, between Corriegill
point on the south, and Merkland point on the north,
affords good anchorage in about 5 fathoms water,
but little shelter to vessels, especially in a north-
east gale. Including the islet of Pladda on the
south, and Holy isle in the mouth of Lamlash bay,
the area of Arran is about 100,000 Scots acres, of
which 11,179 are arable, and 613 are under planta-
tions. There is also a considerable extent of natural
coppice-wood on the north-west and north-east
coast. The south end of the island is remarkably
destitute of any thing approaching to plantation,
and even of copsewood.
The island of Arran comprises only two parishes,
—Kilbride on the east, and Kilmorie on the west ;
but it is topographically divided into the five dis-
tricts of Brodick, Lamlash, Southend, Shiskin, and
Loch Ranza.
The Brodick district is that portion of the island
* Headrick estimates the length of this island, measuring
Irom N. E. to S. W., at 34 or 35 miles ; and its breadth as vary-
ing from 15 to 20 miles. Mr. Jardine states its length to be
only 21 miles, and its breadth 9. Professor Jaraieson, in his
1 Outline of the Mineralogy of Arran,' estimates its length at 32,
and breadth at 12 miles. The writer of the article Arrau, in the
' Penny Cyclopedia,' vaguely estimates its length from near Loch
Ranza, in the N. N. vy„ to'Kildonan, in the S. S. E., at "some-
what more than 20 miles; and its greatest breadth at 12." The
Rev. Angus Macmillan, minister of Kilmorie, in his evidence be-
fore the Commissioners of Religious Instruction, [Report VIII. p.
470.] states the greatest length of his parish to be upwards of 30
miles. The admeasurements in our text have been given after
a careful examinatioi and comparison of the best maps and re-
ports on the island.
most frequently visited by tourists, and most gen
orally resorted to for sea-bathing. It lies around
the bay of the same name, and extends northwards
to South Sannox. Its northern part is composed of
the towering Goatfell, and its brother-mountains;
and the beautiful glens or mountain-ravines called
Glen Rosa or Rossie, Glen Sherrig, Glen Shant, and
Glen Cloy, occur here. The base of the mountains
here approaches close to the sea, so that the full
effect of their altitude — which in Goatfell is 2,865
feetf — imposes itself on the eye of the spectator
from the sea or beach, while they are constantly
varying their appearance, as seen from any quarter,
under the accidents of weather, light, and shade.
The lower part of Goatfell is composed of red sand-
stone; then follows mica-slate, which is surmounted
by a pyramidal mass of granite. The view from the
summit embraces the coast of Ireland from Fairhead
to Belfast loch; and the mountains of Isla, Jura,
and Mull. The ascent may be accomplished, with
the aid of a guide, in about two hours ; and is best
achieved from the inn at Brodick. The natives call
this mountain Gaodh JBhein, or Ben-Ghaoil, that is
' the Mountain of Winds.1 To the eye of a specta-
tor on the summit of Goatfell — which is the loftiest
peak in this granitic district — the neighbouring
mountains present a wild assemblage of bare ridges,
yawning chasms, abrupt precipices, and every fan-
tastic form of outline, while the profound gulfs be-
tween them are darkened by eternal shadow. The
scenery here is nnrivalled in its kind, except per-
haps among the Cuchullin Mountains in Skye. — On
the north side of Brodick bay, adjoining the village,
is the castle of Brodick, one of the seats of the Duke
of Hamilton. It is an old irregular pile of building,
of secluded aspect, but in good repair. The grounds
around it are well- wooded; and the majestic heights
of Goatfell, and Bennish [2,598 feet,] rise in the im-
mediate background. This stronghold was surprised
by James Lord Douglas, Sir Robert Boyd, and other
partisans of Brace in 1306, demolished in 1456, re-
built by James V., and garrisoned by Cromwell.
Cromwell's garrison, to the number of 80 men, it is
traditionally related, were surprised and cut off by
the natives. — On the opposite side of the bay, and
at about one mile's distance from the sea, in Glen
Cloy, is Kilmichael, the seat of John Fullarton, Esq.,
whose immediate ancestors received this estate, and
a farm on the west side of the island, from Robert
Bruce, for services rendered to him while in con-
cealment in this island. Martin says: "If tradition
be true, this little family is said to be of seven hun
dred years standing. The present possessor obliged
me with the sight of his old and new charters, by
which be is one of the king's coroners within this
island, and as such, he hatb a halbert peculiar to his
office; be has his right of late from the family of
Hamilton, wherein his title and perquisites of coro-
ner are confirmed to him and his heirs. He is
obliged to have three men to attend him upon all
public emergencies, and be is bound by his office to
pursue all malefactors, and to deliver them to the
steward, or in his absence to the next judge. And
if any of the inhabitants refuse to pay their rents at
the usual term, the coroner is bound to take him
personally, or to seize his goods. And if it should
happen that the coroner with his retinue of three
men is not sufficient to put his office in execution,
then he summons all the inhabitants to concur with
him ; and immediately they rendezvous to the place,
where he fixes his coroner's staff. The perquisites
due to the coroner are a firlot or bushel of oats, and
t This is Dr. Macculloch's admeasurement. Professor Play-
fair estimates its height at 2,945; Mr. Galbraith at 2.S63 feet
AKRAN.
80
ARRAN.
a lamb from every village in the isle ; both which
are punctually paid Mm at the ordinary terms."
[' Description of the Western Islands.'] Fergus
Macloy or MacLouis, or Fullarton's, charter is dated
Nov. 26, 1307. A number of cottages and villas are
scattered along Brodick bay, which has become a
favourite watering-place during the summer. Dr.
Maccullocli speaks of it in terms of unwonted rap-
ture. " Every variety of landscape," he says, " is
united in this extraordinary spot. The rural charms
of the ancient English village, unrestricted in space
and profuse of unoccupied land, are joined to the
richness of cultivation, and contrasted with the
wildness of moorland and rocky pasture. On one
hand is the wild mountain torrent, and on another,
the tranquil river meanders through the rich plain.
Here the sea curls on the smooth beach, and there it
foams against a rocky shore, or washes the foot of
the high and rugged cliffs, or the skirts of the
wooded hill. The white sails of boats are seen pass-
ing and repassing among trees, — the battlements of
the castle, just visible, throw an air of ancient gran-
deur over the woods, and, united to this variety, is
all the sublimity and all the rudeness of the Alpine
landscape which surrounds and involves the whole."
["Highlands and Western Isles,1 vol. ii. p. 29.]
There is regular steam - communication between
Brodick and the port of Ardrossan in Ayrshire, and
also between Brodick and Glasgow, both by way of
Eothesay and by way of Largs. The steamers, in
the latter case, make the passage in about 5 hours,
and after arriving at Brodick from Glasgow, and
discharging their passengers there, they proceed
round to Lamlash bay, where they lie during the
night, returning to Brodick for passengers at an
early hour next morning.
Lamlash district, to the south of Brodick district,
has but a small extent of plantation within it, and
no hills exceeding 1,200 feet in altitude The vil-
lage is in the form of a crescent facing the bay and
the Holy isle, and backed by wooded heights, be-
yond which the green and rounded summits of the
hills in this district are seen. The church is at the
southern extremity of the village, which is 4J miles
distant from Brodick, and 4 miles north of Whiting
bay. See article Kilbride. — "The bay of Lam-
lash," says Headrick, " may be about 3 miles, in a
right line, from its northern to its southern entrance;
and at its centre it forms a sort of semicircle of
nearly 2 miles across, having the Holy isle on one
side, and the vale of Lamlash on the other. The
northern wing projects nearly towards north-east,
while the southern projects nearly towards south-
east, giving to the whole a figure approaching to
that of a horse-shoe, which prevents the waves of
the ocean from getting into the interior bay. The
two inlets may be about a quarter of a mile in
breadth at their mouths, and widen gradually as
they approach the central bay. The southern inlet
is preferred by mariners, because here there is no
danger but what is seen. The northern inlet is
equally safe to those who know it : but the tails of
rocks we have described as projected from Dun-
Fioun, and the gradual decrease of altitude of the
rocks on the opposite point of Holy isle, cause them
to extend a considerable way below the sea, before
they sink out of the reach of vessels drawing a great
depth of water. But to those who know the chan-
nel, there is sufficient depth, at both entrances, for
the largest ships of the line. Within, there is good
holding- ground, sufficient depth for the largest
ships, and room enough for the greatest navy to
ride at anchor. In fact, this is one of the best har-
bours in the frith of Clyde, — if not in the world. In
front of the village, Duchess Ann — who seems to
have been a woman of superior capacity — caused a
harbour to be built of large quadrangular blocks of
sandstone. We may form some idea of the magni-
tude and solidity of this work, when informed that
it cost £2,913 10s. 5d. sterling, at a time when
masons' wages are said to have been 8d., and la-
bourers' wages 4d. per day. It is a great pity this
building was allowed to be demolished ; because its
ruins render the village of more difficult access from
the sea, than if it had. never been constructed."
[' View,' pp. 88 — 91.] This harbour has now nearly
disappeared ; a great part of the stones have been
carried off to build the new quay a few hundred
yards to the north, and the sand has buried a part.
The Holy isle is interesting as well for the beauty
of its conical form, rising to 1,000* feet, as for the
view from its summit, and the striking character of
its columnar cliffs, which consist of clinkstone on a
base of red sandstone, with a stratum of white sand-
stone interposed. " The ascent," says Macculloch,
" is rendered peculiarly laborious; no less from the
steepness and irregularity of the ground, than from
the tangled growth of the Arbutus uva ursi by which
it is covered. The whole surface scarcely bears any
other plant than this beautiful trailing shrub; pecu-
liarly beautiful when its bright scarlet berries are
present to contrast with the rich dark green of its
elegant foliage. The columnar cliffs, which lie on
the east side, though having no pretensions to the
regularity of Staffa, are still picturesque, and are
free from the stiffness too common in this class of
rock; consisting of various irregular stages piled on
each other, broken, and intermixed with ruder masses
of irregular rocks, and with verdure and shrubs of
humble growth. Beneath, a smooth and curved re-
cess in a mass of sandstone, produces that species of
echo which occurs in the whispering gallery of St.
Paul's, and in other similar situations. There are
no ruins now to be traced in Lamlash; but Dean
Monro says that it had ' ane monastery of friars,'
founded by John, Lord of the Isles, ' which is de-
cayit.' That was in 1594; and what was then de-
cayed, has now disappeared. He caDs the island
Molass ; and it is pretended that there was a cave, f
or hermitage, inhabited by a Saint Maol Jos, who is
buried at Shiskin, on the south side of Arran.f It
is further said that there was once a castle here,
built by Somerled." — King's Cross, in this district,
which forms the dividing headland between Lamlash
bay and Whiting bay, is said by some to have been
the point from whence Eobert Bruce watched for
the fighting-up of the 'signal-flame' at Turnberry
point, on the opposite coast of Ayrshire, which was
to intimate to him that the way was clear for his
making a descent on the Carrick coast. Other tra-
ditions— which are followed by Sir Walter Scott in
his ' Lord of the Isles.' [See Canto V. st. 7 and 17.]
— represent Bruce as first hailing the supposed sig-
nal, ' so flickering, fierce, and bright,' from the bat-
tlements of Brodick castle. See Tdeneebkt.
Southend district stretching from Largybeg point,
the southern extremity of Whiting bay, to Kilpa-
trick on Drimodune bay, is the most valuable district
of the island in agricultural respects. There is here
a belt of cultivated laud, in some places of consider-
able breadth, between the shore and the secondary
hills of the interior. The sceneiy is of a milder
character than that of any other quarter of the
island; but there is no accommodation for bathers
* Mr. Burrel's barometrical admeasurement pave only 891
feet.
t Headrick affirms the existence of and describes this cavo
See ' View,' p. 80.
% An Irish saint of the name of Molaisse flourished in the 6th
century
ARRAN.
81
ARRAN.
In this direction, the only houses being a few farm-
hamlets and scattered shielings, and the beach being
rocky. This district is intersected by two main
rivulets, viz. the Torlin or Torrylin, towards the
east, and the water of Sliddery towards the west.
These streams run nearly parallel to each other,
from north-cast to south-west, and receive numer-
ous tributary streams in their progress from the
secondary mountains towards the sea. Most of the
other burns which flow into the sea are merely
mountain-torrents, the beds of which are nearly dry
except when they are swelled by excessive rains.
These burns have cut deep chasms or ravines in the
strata; and the main streams have frequently formed
delightful valleys, though sometimes of small ex-
tent. Towards the head of Glen Scordel, from which
the main branch of the water of Sliddery flows, and
in several other places, there are vast veins of whin-
stone, interspersed with innumerable particles of
pyrites, which retain their full brilliancy, in spite of
exposure to air and the astringent moss- water to the
action of which they are subjected. " These," says
Headrick, " the people are confident in the belief of
being gold; and I confess I was a little staggered,
until my ingenious friend, Dr. Thomson, by ana-
lyzing a specimen, assured me that the gold was
neither more nor less than pyrites of iron." — The
islet of Pladda lies opposite Kildonan point in this
division. See Pladda. The ruins of Kildonan
castle, a small square fortalice, surmount the sea-
bank here, but present no historical associations of
interest. A large portion of the walls fell about 25
years ago. — Auchinhew bum, in this quarter, pre-
sents, according to Headrick, in the upper part of
its wild ravine course, a fall or cascade, called Essie-
more. — The Struey rocks, further to the west, or
Bennan head, are precipitous cliffs of black basalt
rising to an altitude of from 300 to 400 feet above a
beach thickly strewn with their dissevered frag-
ments. A little to the west of these rocks is a vast
cave called the Black cave. — The kirk and manse of
Kilmorie are situated in this district, on the Torry-
lin, where its mouth forms a small harbour for boats.
See Kilmokie.
Shiskin district, so called from the little village or
hamlet of Shiskin, or Sbedog, is chiefly remarkable
for the extensive natural caves which occur here in
the sandstone rocks close upon the beach. One of
these, called the King's cove, is supposed to have
given shelter to ' the royal Bruce.' It is situated
opposite Portree in Higher Cardel of Kintyre. It is
also universally reputed to have been the occasional
residence of Fioun, * or Fingal, when he resorted to
Arran for the purpose of hunting. " The old people
here," says Headrick, " have many ridiculous sto-
ries about Fioun and his heroes, which have been
transmitted, from a remote period, by father to son,
■ — in their progress becoming more and more extra-
vagant. They believe Fioun and his heroes to have
been giants of extraordinary size. They say that
Fioun made a bridge from Kintyre to this place,
over which he could pass, by a few steps, from the
one land to the other. But, what is esteemed ocu-
lar demonstration of the gigantic size of Fioun, and
sufficient to overwhelm the most obstinate scepti-
cism, the hero is said to have had a son born to him
in the cave ; and a straight groove, cut on the side
of the cave, is shown, which is firmly believed to
have been the exact length of the child's foot the
day after he was horn. The groove is more than
* Fioun means fair-haired ; Gael "was added to denote his race
or nation. Highlanders seldom apply the epithet Gael to Fioun,
unless you express doubts concerning his extraction. But they
often characterize him by the 6umame of MacCoul, the name of
his father, — Headrick
I.
2 feet in length ; and, taking the human foot to be
one sixth of a man's height, it follows, the child
must have been more than 12 feet high the day after
he was bom! The cave is scooped out of fine-
grained white sandstone. A perpendicular vein of
the same sandstone has stood in the centre, from
which the strata dip rapidly on each side, forming
the roof into a sort of Gothic arch, to which the vein
above serves the purpose of a key-stone. At the
back part of the cave, this vein comes down to the
bottom, and forms a perpendicular column with a
recess on each side. The northern recess is only a
few feet. The southern is of uncertain extent, being
gradually contracted in breadth, and nearly closed
by rounded stones. The length of this recess is
about 30 feet. From the pillar in the back-ground,
to the mouth of the cave, exceeds 100 feet. The
greatest breadth may be about 49 feet; and the
greatest height the same. The mouth has been de-
fended by a rampart of loose stones ; and stones are
scattered through the cave which seem to have been
used as seats. On the column there is a figure cut
resembling a two-handed sword. Some think this
was an exact representation of the sword of Fioun ;
others of that of Robert Brace. To me it appears to
be neither one nor other, but a representation of the
cross. It stands upon a rude outline representing a
mountain, probably Mount Calvary. On each side
there is a figure kneeling and praying towards the
cross. The sides of the cave exhibit innumerable
small figures, equally rude, representing dogs chasing
stags, and men shooting arrows at them. They also
represent goats, sheep, cattle, and various other ani-
mals, though the figures are so rude, that it is sel-
dom possible to ascertain what they represent."
Mr. Jamieson [p. 125] thinks these scratches were
" made by idle fishermen, or smugglers." Maccul-
loch calls them " casual scratches by idle boys."
North of this cave are several smaller caves, which
communicate with each other. One of these is called
the King's kitchen, another his cellar, his larder, &o.
On the south side there is a cave called the King's
stable, presenting a larger area than the palace, as
the cave of residence is called. The scene from the
mouth of these caves, on a fine summer-day, is verv
beautiful. And sweet it were to sit here —
" When still and dim
The beauty-breathing hues of eve expand ;
When day's last roses fade on Ocean's brim,
And Nature veils her brow, and chants her vesper-hymn."
The Blackwater, a considerable stream, here falls
into Drimodune bay. A small harbour has been
constructed at its mouth, which is the ferrying-place
to Campbellton, and from which there is a Toad
across the island, by Shedog, the western side of
Craigvore, Corbie's craig, Glen Ture, and Glen Sher-
rig, to Brodick. — The Mauchry burn is another con-
siderable stream descending from Glen Ture, and
falling into Mauchry bay to the north of the King's
cove. Pennant tells us that this river flows through
a rocky channel, which in one part has worn through
a rock, and left so contracted a gap at the top as to
form a very easy step across. " Yet not long ago,"
he adds, " a poor woman in the attempt, after get-
ting one foot over, was struck with such horror at
the tremendous torrent beneath, that she remained
for some hours in that attitude, not daring to bring
her other foot over, till some kind passenger luckily
came by and assisted her out of her distress ! "
The remaining or northern portion of the island
forms the Loch Eanza district, extending from Anch •
nagallen, a little to the north of the Mauchry burn,
round, by the Cock of Arran, to Come point on the
east coast. This is a highly interesting district, in
F
ARRAN.
82
ARRAN.
point of scenery. The road by the shore presents a
succession of beautiful views; and the village or
hamlet of Loch Eanza itself is one of the most
picturesque spots any where to be found in the
western islands. It has a safe harbour formed by a
natural inlet of the sea in the mouth of the valley or
glen. Pennant, who crossed over to this bay from
the Argyle coast, says: " The approach was magni-
ficent ; a fine bay in front, about a mile deep, hav-
ing a ruined castle near the lower end, on a low far
projecting neck of land, that forms another harbour,
with a narrow passage ; but within has three fathom
of water, even at the lowest ebb. Beyond is a little
plain watered by a stream, and inhabited by the
people of a small village. The whole is environed
with a theatre of mountains ; and in the back-ground
the serrated crags of G-rianan-Athol soar above." —
[Tour to the Western Isles, pp. 191-2.] Lord Teign-
mouth, who saw Loch Eanza under its winter-aspect,
says: " In point of gloomy grandeur no British bay
surpasses Loch Eanza. Dark ridges hem it in."
We are quite sure that gloomy grandeur is not the
common impression left by this scene on the eye
and mind of the visitor. While residing here in
summer we have often felt the beauty and truth of
the sentiment conveyed in the bard's description of
the approach of Britce's little armament to this
point of ' Arran's isle:' —
" The sun, ere yet he sunk behind
Ben-Ghoil, 'the Mountain of the Wind/
Gave his grim peaks a greeting kind,
And bade Loch Ranza smile.
Thither their destined course they drew ;
It seem'd the isle her monarch knew,
So brilliant was the landward view,
The ocean so serene;
Each puny wave in diamonds roll'd
O'er the calm deep, where hues of gold
With azure strove and green.
The hill, the vale, the tree, the tower,
Glow'd with the tints of evening's hour ;
Ttie beach was silver sheen ;
The wind breathed soft as lover's sigh,
And, oft renew'd, seem'd oft to die,
With breathless pause between.
O who, with speech of war and woes,
Would wish to break the soft repose
Of such enchanting scene! "
Glensannox in this district has been compared to
the celebrated Glencoe. " It is," says Macculloch,
"the sublime of magnitude, and simplicity, and ob-
scurity, and silence. Possessing no water, except
the mountain torrents, it is far inferior to Coruisk
in variety ; equally also falling short of it in gran-
deur and diversity of outline. It is inferior too in
dimensions, since that part of it which admits of a
comparison, does not much exceed a mile in length.
But, to the eye, that difference of dimension is
scarcely sensible ; since here, as in that valley, there
is no scale by which the magnitude can be deter-
mined. The effect of vacancy united to vastness of
dimension is the same in both: there is the same
deception, at first, as to the space; which is only
rendered sensible by the suddenness with which we
lose sight of our companions, and by the sight of
unheard torrents. Perpetual twilight appears to
reign here, even at mid-day ; a gloomy and grey at-
mosphere uniting, into one visible sort of obscurity,
the only lights which the objects ever receive, re-
flected from rock to rock, and from the clouds which
so often involve the lofty boundaries of this valley."
No one should visit Arran without attempting to
make himself acquainted with the beauty of the
coast-scenery from Brodick to Glensannox; and,
if time permits, to travel from Sannox to Loch Ean-
za, through Glen Halmidel, the excursion will not be
regretted. — There is a small chapel at Loch Eanza,
built about 60 years ago at the expense of the Duke
of Hamilton, on the boundary between Kilmorie and
Kilbride parishes, but within the former parish. It
is distant, by the road, about 24 miles from Kilmorie
church, and about 12 from the boundary of Shisken
district. The salary of the minister is £41, secured
by a deed of mortification executed by Ann, Duchess
of Hamilton, bearing date, 1st April, 1710.
The climate of Arran is moist, but is considered
mild and healthy. . Sudden and heavy falls of rain
in summer and autumn are its greatest disadvan-
tages. The prevailing winds are from the south
arid the west. Geraniums, myrtles, fuschias, and
many other greenhouse-plants stand the winter in
the open air at Brodick castle, and at different villas
along the coast. — There are no foxes, badgers, or
weasels, in Arran ; but the brown rat is very de-
structive, and wild cats may occasionally be seen.
Eed deer exist in the northern part of the island ;
and American deer were introduced some years ago
into Brodick park. Black and red grouse are abun-
dant ; a few pheasants may sometimes be seen ; the
capercailzie was reintroduced, with vast care, to a
lofty and sheltered wood above Brodick castle ; the
ptarmigan is occasionally seen on the higher moun-
tains ; and the bittern occurs in the marshes. Trout
are numerous; and fine sea-trout are sometimes
taken in the Jorsa and Loch Jorsa. — The botany of
Arran is considered rich; and the geology of it is
more comprehensive and suggestive than that of al-
most any other limited tract of land in Europe.
Playfair, Jamieson, Neckar, Headrick, Macculloch,
Sedgwick, Murchison, Nichol, and a host of other
geological savans have made Arran the scene of
their explorations. But any attempt on our part to
describe its rocks and enumerate its fossils could not
be done in sufficiently brief space, and would be un-
interesting to general readers. But ample informa-
tion may be had from Macculloch's " Geological
Structure of the Western Islands of Scotland," Ja-
mieson's " Outline of the Mineralogy of the Shet-
land Islands and the Island of Arran," and Eam-
say's " Geology of the Island of Arran;" and very
pleasing and profitable information in other depart-
ments also may be got from Landsborough's " Arran
and its Natural History."
The ecclesiastical statistics of Arran will be given
in the articles Kilbride and Kilmorie; and some
other matters will be stated in the articles Lamlash,
Glensannox, Eanza (Loch), Pladda, Sannox, and
a number of others. There are only four roads in
Arran. One of them goes round the coast; another
goes across its centre from Brodick to Blackwater
foot; another goes across its southern part from
Lamlash to Ben-na-Carrigan; and another connects
two of the preceding between Glen Scoradail and
Clachan Glen. The roads, particularly qn the
coast, are in excellent condition; and the means
of communication with all desirable parts of the
mainland are very abundant. The proprietors of
this island are the Duke of Hamilton, the Marquis
of Bute, the Hon. Mrs. Westenra, and Fullarton
of Kilmichael and Whitefarlane. The Duke is by
far the greatest proprietor. His Grace's arable land,
in 1813, was 10,228 Scots acres; and his present
rental £10,000, arising from 458 farms or posses-
sions. [See a valuable paper, by Mr. John Pater-
son, in the Prize Essays of the Highland Society,
vol. v. pp. 125—154.] Population in 1801, 5,179;
in 1821, 6,541; in 1841, 6,241; in 1861, 5,592.
Houses, 1,130.
We have already, in the course of this article,
had occasion to notice various traditions which exist
in Arran respecting Fingal, and, though we are not
prepared to assert with Dr. Macculloch that " Fingal
was never heard of in Arran till lately," we mav
ARROCHAR.
83
ARROCHAR
vonhu'c to suggest thai some of these may owe their
origin to the early presence of the Norwegians,
called Fiongall, or ' white foreigners,' by the Irish
annalists. Somerled, thane of Argyle in the 12th
century — whose name has also occurred in this ar-
ticle— appears to have been of Scoto-Irish descent.
His father Gilliebrede had possessions on the main-
land of Argyle, probably in the district of Morvem.
When yet a youth, Somerled signally defeated a
band of Norse pirates; and, having obtained high
reputation for his prowess and skill in arms, was
enabled ultimately to assume the title of Lord or
Begulus of Argyle, and to compel Godred of Norway
to cede to him what were then called the South
isles, namely, Bute, Arran, Islay, Jura, Mull, and
the peninsula of ICintvre. On the death of Somer-
led, in 1164, Mr. Gregory conjectures that Arran
was probably divided between his sons Eeginald
and Angus, and may have been the cause of the
deadly feud which existed between them. [' History
of the Western Highlands and Isles,' Edin. 1836.
8vo. p. 17.] Angus, with his sons, fell in an en-
gagement with the men of Skye in 1210; where-
upon Dugall, another son of Somerled, and the an-
cestor of the house of Argyle and Lorn, patronv-
mieally called Macdougal, succeeded to his pos-
sessions. It appears, however, that the kings of
Norway continued to be acknowledged as the
sovereigns of the Isles, until their final cession to
the Scottish crown by Magnus of Norway, in July,
1266. Somerled's descendents now became vassals
of the King of Scotlandfor all their possessions; but
the islands of Man, Arran, and Bute were annexed
to the Crown. See the article Hebrides. After the
unfortunate battle of Methven, Eobert Brace lay for
some time concealed, it is said, in Arran; and after-
wards in the little island of Eathlin on the northern
coast of Ireland, whence he again passed over to
Arran with a fleet of 33 galleys, and 300 men, and
joined Sir James Douglas, who, with a band of
Brace's devoted adherents, had contrived to main-
tain himself in Arran, and to seize the castle of
Brodick, then held by Sir John Hastings, an Eng-
lish knight; and here he projected his descent
on the Carrick coast. Several memorials of Brace
still exist in the names of different localities in Ar-
ran. On the marriage of the Princess Mary, eldest
sister of James III., to Sir Thomas Boyd, eldest son
of Lord Boyd, in 1466, the island of Arran was
erected into an earldom in favour of Boyd; but upon
the forfeiture of that family, the house of Hamilton
rose upou its ruins; and a divorce having been ob-
tained, the Countess of Arran gave her hand to
Lord Hamilton — to whom it had been promised in
1454 — and conveved with it the earldom of Arran.
[Tytler's History of Scotland, vol. iv. p. 227.] The
title and estates of Arran then transferred have ever
continued in the family of Hamilton to the present
time, with the exception of a few years under the
regency of Morton.
AEEOCHAE, or Arroquhar, a parish, containing
a village with a post-office of its own name, in the
north-west comer of Dumbartonshire. It is bound-
ed on the north by Strathfillan in Perthshire; on
the east by Perthshire and Lochlomond to Nether
Inveruglass; on the south by the parish of Luss,
from which it is separated by the Douglass burn;
and on the west by the upper part of Loch Long,
and Argyleshire. Its extent is nearly 15 miles,
exclusive of the farms of Ardleish and Doune, which
lie on the east side of Lochlomond, at the northern
end of it; and its mean breadth may be computed at
3 miles. The area, according to the Ordnance survey,
is 28,832 acres; but little more than one-fiftieth
is arable. A large portion is covered with oak-
coppice. This is a very picturesque region; it is
mountainous throughout, and presents some fine
lake-scenery. The principal mountain is Ben-
Voirlich which, according to Bone, has an altitude
of 3,300 feet; or, according to the writer of the ar-
ticle Dumbartonshire, in the Penny Cyclopaedia, of
3,330 feet, " that is," the writer adds, " above 100
feet higher than the adjacent Ben-Lomond." But,
according to the Ordnance survey, its altitude is
only 3,180 feet; while that of Ben-Lomond is stated
at 3,195 feet. It forms a noble object in the land-
scape to the tourist ascending either Loch Lomond
or Loch Long. Its position is about 6 miles to the
north of the head of Loch Long, and 3 west of
Ardvoirlich on Loch Lomond. The principal
streams within the parish are the Falloch, descend-
ing from Glen Falloch into the head of Loch Lo-
mond; the Inveruglass from Loch-Sloy; and the
Douglass, which falls into Loch Lomond opposite
Eowardennan. The streams which fall into Loch
Long have a comparatively short course. — The
sceneiy of the upper part of Loch Lomond, in this
parish, is neither so extensive nor so magnificent as
towards the middle and lower end ; it is, however,
of a wilder and more romantic character. The lake
is here narrow and river-like, as most of the Scot-
tish lakes are ; and the adjoining hills, broken and
ragged in their outlines, rise up at once abruptly
and precipitously from the water. Still, however,
the scenery is such as must afford high gratification
to every lover of the picturesque. The romantic
and varied shores, — the bold projecting headlands
and retiring bays, — the rugged and serrated hills, —
and the numerous openings of the deep and lonely
glens, — forming together a picture of peculiar and
enchanting interest ; the effect of which is heightened
in a surprising degree, when all the magic tints of
its varied surface are awakened by the brightness
of a summer's sun. Then, and then only, can it be
seen in its full effect. — In ancient times, the land
forming the western shore of Loch Lomond, from
Tarbet upwards, and the greater part of this parish,
was inhabited by
' The wild Macfarlane's plaided clan.*
The Macfarlanes — Parians or Pharlans — are proved,
by a charter still extant, to have descended from
Gilchrist, the brother of Maldowen or Maldwin, the
third Earl of Lennox ; they held their lands in Ar-
rochar, by a grant in that charter to Gilchrist by
the Earl; and they retained these lands, as their
principal inheritance, at all times, till the death of
their last chief. They had, for their war-cry, "Loch
Sloy ! Loch Sloy ! " and they took this from a small
lake, Loch Sloy, properly Loch Sloighe, at the back
of Ben Vorlich. Tradition says that they fought at
that lake a battle against some Northlar.ders, forc-
ing them into its dark and gloomy waters; and that
they then gave it the name of Loehansloighe, which
means "the small lake of the host or multitude."
They appear to have, on all occasions, supported
the Earls of Lennox, and to have followed their
banner in the field. For several generations, in-
deed, they make no figure in history, and seem to
have merged into mere retainers of the earls. But
in the 16th century, Duncan Macfarlane of Mac-
farlane acted sternly in support of Matthew, Earl of
Lennox ; marched at the bead of 300 men of his
own name, in 1544, into junction with Lennox and
Glencairn ; was present at the battle of Glasgow
Muir; and shared then and afterwards the fate of
the party he supported. Andrew, the son of Dun •
can, engaged in the civil wars of the 'period ; took
part with the Eegent, in opposition to almost all the
Highland chiefs ; was present with a body of his
ARTHUR.
84
ARTHUR.
followers, at the battle of Langside; and, falling
fiercely on the flank of the Queen's army in the
hottest of the fight, threw them into irretrievable
disorder, and thus mainly contributed to decide the
fortune of the day. Walter, the grandson of Dun-
can, made a vigorous stand for the royal party ;
was twice besieged in his own house in the time of
Cromwell; and so provoked the English by his
indomitable zeal that they afterwards burnt down
his castle of Inveruglass. John Macfarlane, who
was chief of the clan in 1697, built in that year the
castle of Inverreoch, at the back of what is now
called Arrochar House ; and over the front door of
this mansion is a stone taken from the lintel of
that castle, with a Scotch thistle and the date 1697.
Walter Macfarlane of Macfarlane, the antiquary,
shed a lustre on the name in another and far higher
way than ever did any chief of the clan ; for he is
much and justly celebrated as the indefatigable
collector of the ancient records of Scotland. A val-
uable portrait of him, presented by his friends, was
hung up in the Glasgow cathedral, but carried off
by some miscreant; and the late Principal Macfar-
lane of Glasgow college, himself a great antiquary,
made earnest but vain attempts to recover the por-
trait. By far the largest proprietor of Arrochar
parish now is Sir James Colquhoun of Luss, Bart.
The conspicuous mountain, popularly called the
Cobbler, situated on the north-west of the head of
Loch Long, and very generally described as con-
nected with Arrochar, is in the parish of Lochgoil-
head and county of Argyle. The village of Arrochar
stands near the bead of Loch Long, on the east side,
2 miles from Tarbet, 17jfrom Helensburgh, 22 from
Dumbarton by way of Luss, and 23f from Inverary,
is a choice summer retreat and watering-place; con-
tains an excellent hotel, and a number of pleasant
villas ; and has daily communication with Glasgow,
during summer, both by steamers direct on Loch
Long, and by access to the Loch Lomond steamers
at Tarbet. Pop. of the parish in 1861, 629. Houses,
117. Assessed property in 1843, £3,096 3s.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Sir James
Colquhoun, Bart. Stipend, including the glebe, £260.
Schoolmaster's salary, £50. The parish church was
built in 1 847. Thereis a Free church ; and the yearly
sum raised by it in 1865 was £145 0s. 7d. The ter-
ritory of Arrochar was originally part of the parish
of Luss, and was made a separate parish in 1658.
ARTHUR, a name of frequent occurrence in
Scottish as well as Welsh and English topography,
and generally traced by the voice of Tradition to the
far-famed Arthur of romance. " It is amusing to re-
mark," says Chalmers, in his elaborate ' Caledonia,'
[vol. i. p. 244,] "how many notices the North- Bri-
tish topography furnishes, with regard to Arthur,
whose fame seems to brighten, as inquiry dispels the
doubts of scepticism, and archaiology establishes the
certainties of truth. — In Clydesdale, within the pa-
rish of Crawford, there is Arthur's fountain: in
1239, there was a grant of David de Lindsay to the
monks of Newbotle, of the lands of Brotheralwyn,
in that district, which were bounded, on the west
part, ' a fonte Arthuri risque ad summitate montis.'
Chart. Newbotle, N. 148. — The Welsh poets assign
a palace to Arthur, among the Northern Britons, at
Penryn-ryoneth. In Lhuyd's Cornish vocabulary,
p. 238, Penryn rioneth is called, the seat of the
Prince of Cumbria: and see also Eichard's Welsh
Dictionary. The British Penryn supposes a pro-
montory, -with some circumstance which redupli-
cates its height ; and this intimation points to Al-
cluyd, the well-known metropolis of the Romanized
Britons, in Strathclyde. Now a parliamentary re-
cord of the reign of David II., in 1367, giving a
curious detail of the king's rents and profits in Dun-
bartonshire, states the ' redditum assize Castri Ar-
thuri.' MSS. Eeg. House; Paper-Office. The castle
of Dunbarton, therefore, was the Castram Arthuri,
long before the age of David II. See the site oi
Dunbarton, in Ainslie's Map of Eenfrewshire. Tha
Point of Cardross was the Ehyn-ryoneth ; the castle
of Dunbarton was the Penrhyn-ryoneth. Accord-
ing to the British Triads, Kentigem, the well-known
founder of the church of Glasgow, had his episcopal
seat at Penrhyn-ryoneth. — The romantic castle of
Stirling was equally supposed, during the middle
ages, to have been the festive scene of the round-
table of Arthur. ' Bex Arthurus,' says William of
Worcester, in his Itinerary, page 311, ' custodiebat
le round-table in castro de Styrlyng, aliter, Snowdon-
west-castell.' The name of Snowdon castle is no-
thing more than the Snua-dvm of the Scoto-Irish
people, signifying the fort, or fortified hill on the
river, as we may Team from O'Brien, and Shaw; and
the Sixua-dun has been converted to Snow-dun, by
the Scoto-Saxon people, from a retrospection to tho
Snow-dun of Wales, which is itself a mere transla
tion from the Welsh. — In Neilston parish, in Een
frewshire, there still remain Arthur-lee, Low Ar-
thur-lee, and West Arthur-lee. — Arthur's-oven, on
the Carron, was known by that name, as early, if
not earlier, than the reign of Alexander III. In
1293, William Gurlay granted to the monks of New-
botle ' fimrationem unius stagni ad opus molendini
sui del Stanhus quod juxts* fumum Arthuri infra
baronium de Dunypas est.' Chart. Newbotle, No.
239. — The name of Arthur's-Seat, at Edinburgh, is
said, by a late inquirer, ' to be only a name of yes-
terday.' Yet, that remarkable height had that dis-
tinguished name before the publication of Camden's
Britannia, in 1585, as we may see in p. 478; and
before the publication of Major, in 1521, as appears
in fo. 28; and even before the end of the 15th cen-
tury, as Kennedy, in his flyting with Dunbar, men-
tions ' Arthur Sate or ony hicher hill.' Bamsay's
Evergreen, v. ii. p. 65. — This is not the only hill
which bears the celebrated name of Arthur. Not
far from, the top of Loch-Long, which separates
Argyle and Dunbarton, there is a conical hill that is
called Arthur's Seat. * Guide to Loch Lomond, pi.
iii. — A rock, on the north side of the hill of Dun-
barrow, in Dunnichen parish, Forfarshire, has long
bore, in the tradition of the country, the distinguish-
ed name of Arthur's Seat. Stat. Acco. v. i. p. 419.
— In the parish of Cupar- Angus, in Perthshire, there
is a standing stone, called the Stone of Arthur;
near it is a gentleman's seat, called Arthur-stone ;
and not far from it is a farm, named Arthur's fold.—
But, it is at Meigle, in the same vicinity, that the
celebrity of Arthur, and the evil fame of his queen
Venora, are most distinctly remembered. Pennant's
Tour, v. ii. pp. 177-8; and Stat. Acco. v. i. p. 506:
and above all, see Bellenden's Boece, fo. lxviii, for
the origin of the popular fictions at Meigle, about
Arthur and Venora. — The Scottish chroniclers, Bar-
bour and Wyntown, were perfectly acquainted with
the Arthur of romance. We may easily infer, from
the local facts, that his story must have been equally
known to Thomas of Ercildun, a century sooner.
In 1293, the monks of Newbotle knew bow to make
a mill-dam with the materials which they found on
the banks of the Carron. Sir Michael Bruce of
Stanhus thought it necessary, in 1743, to pull down
Arthur's Oon, one of the most curious remains of
antiquity, for the stones which it furnished, for
building a mill-dam. The enraged antiquaries con-
* Ben-Arthur or the Cobbler is here meant
ARTHURLEE.
85
ARTHUR'S SEAT.
signed Sir Michael to eternal ridicule. See the
Antiquary Repertory, v. iii. pp. 74--5. Sir David
Lindsay, in his ' Complayiit' Of the Papingo, makes
her take leave of Stirling castle thus:
*Adew fair Siiawdoun, with thy towris hio,
Thy chnpell royall, park, and tabill round.'
And, in his ' Dremo,' he mentions his having di-
verted James V., when young, with ' antique storeis
and deidis martiall,
Of Hector, Arthur, and gentile Julius,
Of Alexander, and worthy Pompeius.'
This shows that the stories of Arthur were then
ranked among those of the most celebrated heroes
of Antiquity." See Arthur's Oven, Arthur's Seat,
Arrochar, and Meigle.
ARTHURLEE, several localities a little west of
Barrhead, in the parish of Neilston, Renfrewshire.
The lands of Arthurlee anciently belonged to a
branch of the Damley family; but they are now
divided among various proprietors, and are dotted
with mansions, public works, and villages. One of
the earliest bleachfields in Scotland was established
at Cross-Arthurlee about the year 1773. A cotton
mill was built at Arthurlee in 1790. A new and
very extensive printfield, for all kinds of calicoes,
was erected at South-Arthurlee in 1835. The whole
tract shares largely in the manifold industry of the
parish of Neilston, and enjoys abundant facility of
communication in the Glasgow and Neilston Rail-
way. The largest seats of population on it are the
villages of Cross-Arthurlee and West- Arthurlee.
Population in 1861 of Cross- Arthurlee, 663; of West-
Arthurlee, 474.
ARTHUR'S OVEN, or Arthur's Oon, a remark-
able Roman antiquity, destroyed in 1743, but till
then singularly well -preserved, iu the parish of Lar-
bert, Stirlingshire. The place on which it stood is
a piece of ground, about 50 feet square, now used as
a washing-green, about 300 feet north of the north-
west comer of the Carron Iron- Works. The build-
ing was highly famous among antiquaries, and can
still be well understood by means of accurate draw-
ings of it, and perhaps may continue for many ages
to come as interesting to the curious as any existing
ancient monument. The following account of it is
given in the Caledonia Romana: — "This building
was of a circular form, its shape in some measure
resembling that of a common bee-hive. It measured
at the base from twenty-nine to thirty yards in cir-
cumference, and continued of the same dimensions
to the height of eight feet, from which point it con-
verged gradually inwards in its ascent, till, at an
elevation of twenty-two feet, the walls terminated
in a circle, leaving in the top of the dome a round
opening twelve feet in diameter. On its western
side was an arched doorway nine feet in extreme
height, and above it an aperture resembling a win-
dow, of a slightly triangular form, three feet in
height, and averaging nearly the same in width.
The whole was formed of hewn freestone, laid in
regular horizontal courses, the first of them resting
upon a thick massive basement of the same mate-
rial, which, to follow out the simile, represented
with curious fidelity the common circular board on
which the cottage hive is usually placed. The in-
terior of the structure corresponded with its general
appearance from without, the only difference being
in the concavity of the shape, and in its having two
projecting stone cornices round its interior surface,
the one at a height of four and the other of six feet
from the ground. The style of the workmanship
was singularly perfect, and showed an intimate ac-
quaintance with masonic art. No cement of any de-
scription had been made uso of in its construction,
yet the stones were so accurately joined together,
that even the difficult process of forming so diminu-
tive a cupola by the concentration of horizontal
courses, was accomplished there in the most skilful
and enduring manner."
ARTHUR'S SEAT, a picturesque and conspicu-
ous hill iu the immediate eastern environs of Edin-
burgh. Its base is nearly a mile long; and its sum-
mit has an altitude of 822 feet above the level of the
6ea. See the article Edinburgh. It commands a
beautiful prospect on all sides, and forms a principal
and imposing object from every point of approach
to the capital of Scotland. The ascent is usually
made from the precincts of Holyrood, or, on the
opposite side from Duddingstone village. Taking
the former route, after crossing the lower park, we
leave the ruins of St. Anthony's chapel a little to
the left. " A better site for such a building," says
Sir Walter Scott, " could hardly have been selected;
for the chapel, situated among the rude and pathless
cliffs, lies in a desert, even in the immediate vicinity
of a rich, populous and tumultuous capital ; and the
hum of the city might mingle with the orisons of the
recluses, conveying as little of worldly interest as
if it had been the roar of the distant ocean. Be-
neath the steep ascent on which these ruins are still
visible, was, and perhaps is, still pointed out, the
place where the wretch Nicol Muschat had closed a
long scene of cruelty towards his unfortunate wife,
by murdering her with circumstances of uncommon
barbarity. The execration in which the man's
crime was held, extended itself to the place where
it was perpetrated, which was marked by a small
cairn or heap of stones, composed of those which
each passenger had thrown there in, testimony of
abhorrence, and on the principle, it would seem, of
the ancient British malediction — ' May you have a
cairn for your burial-place.' " [' Heart of Mid-
Lothian.'] In Maitland's ' History of Edinburgh,'
[1753,] these ruins are described as being 43J feet
long, 18 broad, and as many high, with a tower of
19 feet square.
By striking off to the right, and pursuing an easy
ascent over the green sward, we may gain the sum-
mit of the fine bold basaltic range called Salisbury
crags, of which, says our immortal novelist, " If I
were to choose a spot from which the rising or set-
ting sun could be seen to the greatest possible ad-
vantage, it would be that wild path winding around
the foot of the high belt of semicircular rocks, called
Salisbury crags, and marking the verge of the steep
descent which slopes down, into the glen on the
south-eastern side of the city of Edinburgh. The
prospect, in its general outline, commands a close-
built, high-piled city, stretching itself out in a form
which, to a romantic imagination, may be supposed
to represent that of a dragon ; now a noble arm of
the sea, with its rocks, isles, distant shores, and
boundary of mountains ; and now a fair and fertile
champaign country, varied with hill, dale, and rock,
and skirted by the picturesque ridge of the Pentland
mountains. But as the path gently circles around
the base of the cliffs, the prospect, composed as it is
of these enchanting and sublime objects, changes at
every step, and presents them blended with, or di-
vided from, each other in every possible variety
which can gratify the eye and the imagination.
When a piece of scenery so beautiful, yet so varied,
— so exciting by its intricacy, and yet so sublime,
is lighted up by the tints of morning or of evening,
and displays all that variety of shadowy depth,
exchanged with partial brilliancy, which gives
character even to the tamest of landscapes, the
effect approaches near to enchantment. This path
AKTORNISH.
86
ASHTON.
used to be my favourite evening and morning resort,
when engaged with a favourite author, or new sub-
>eet of study." [' Heart of Mid-Lothian.']
The ascent of Arthur's Seat itself may be done
either directly and steeply up the hill right south
of St. Anthony's chapel, or circuitously and gently
by way of Victoria Road to Dunsapie Loch, and
thence westward; and in the former case is short —
and in the latter very easy. To depict the scene
from the summit, we must employ the same living
pencil that has traced the landscape from the chapel
and the crags. " A nobler contrast there can
hardly exist than that of the huge city, dark with
the smoke of ages, and groaning with the various
sounds of active industry or idle revel, and the lofty
and craggy hill, silent and solitary as the grave;
one exhibiting the full tide of existence, pressing
and precipitating itself forward with the force of an
inundation; the other resembling some time-wom
anchorite, whose life passes as silent and unobserved
as the slender rill which escapes unheard, and
scarce seen from the fountain of his patron-saint.
The city resembles the busy temple, where the
modern Comus and Mammon held their court, and
thousands sacrifice ease, independence, and virtue
itself, at their shrine; the misty and lonely moun-
tain seems as a throne to the majestic but terrible
genius of feudal times, where the same divinities
dispensed coronets and domains to those who had
heads to devise and arms to execute bold enter-
prises." [' Introduction to the Chronicles of the
Canongate.']
The summit of Arthur's Seat is small, tabular,
and rocky, and is so strongly magnetic that the
needle, at some points of it, is completely reversed.
The general mass of the hill comprises a diversity of
n-uptive rocks, together with some interposed and
uptilted sedimentary ones ; and it forms a rich study
to geologists, and presents phenomena about which
the ablest of them disagree or are in doubt. A fa-
vourite theory supposes it to have been a submarine
volcano.
ARTORNISH. A castle, and anciently a chief
stronghold and residence of the Lords of the Isles,
on the west coast of Morven, Argyleshire. It stands
between a chain of rocks and the entrance of Loch
Aline, nearly opposite the bay of Aros in Mull.
The ruins are now inconsiderable, but the situation
is wild and romantic in the highest degree. From
this castle, John de Yle, designing himself Earl of
Ross, and Lord of the Isles, in 1461, granted, in the
style of an independent sovereign, a commission to
certain parties to enter into a treaty with Edward
IV. Sir Walter Scott has given the articles of this
treaty in his Appendix to ' The Lord of the Isles,'
[Note A.] — the opening scene of which poem is laid
in " Artornish hall," where
" the noble and the bold
of Island chivalry "
were assembled to do honour to the nuptials of the
hapless "Maid of Lorn;" and
"met from mainland and from isle,
Ross, Arran, Islay, and Argyle,
Each Minstrel's tributary lay
Paid homage to the festal day."
ARY (The). See Aray (The).
ASCOG, an estate, a bay, a lake, a considerable
seat of population, and a post-office station, in the
north-east of the parish of Kingarth, in the
island of Bute. The estate belongs to the Thorn
family, and has a mansion in the style of the 17th
century. The bay is about 1 J mile south of Bogany
Point, and about the same distance south-east of the
'own of Rothesay. The lake lies along the mutual
boundary of the parishes of Kingarth and Rothesay,
and has an area of 75J acres. A new church, for
the accommodation of the numerous and increasing
inhabitants of the neighbourhood, was founded at
Ascog Point on the 3d of October, 1842.
ASCRIB ISLES. Se Snizort.
ASHDALE, a rivulet and a glen in the southern
extremity of the parish of Kilbride, in the island of
Arran. The rivulet has a run of only about 4 miles,
chiefly eastward, from a lofty mountain source, to
Whiting bay; and in the course of its progress it
makes two beautiful cascades, the one about fifty
feet deep, and the other upwards of an hundred.
The glen is grandly picturesque and wildly roman
tic, and shows some interesting basaltic features.
ASHDOW. See Killeark.
ASHENYARD LOCH. See Kilwikktng.
ASHIESTEEL, a residence on the right bank of
the Tweed, and north border of the parish of Yar
row, Selkirkshire. It is about 6 miles east by south
of Innerleithen, and nearly the same distance west
of Galashiels. Sir Walter Scott lived here during
ten years, and here won his earliest laurels, and
has celebrated it in his poetry. A bridge was re-
cently built in its vicinity across the Tweed, of rub-
ble whinstone, and comprising only one arch, and
that of 136 feet span.
ASHKIRK, a parish partly in Selkirkshire, but
chiefly in Roxburghshire. It contains a small vil-
lage of its own name, with a post-office. It is
hounded on the north by Selkirk; on the east by
Minto and Lilliesleaf; on the south by Roberton
and Wilton; and on the west by Yarrow. It is
about 7 miles long, and 3 broad. The surface is all
hilly, but most of the hills are free from heath.
The soil in general is light, and in several parts
spongy. A good deal has been done of late years
in draining and planting. The cultivated land
amounts to about 2,800 acres. About 400 acres
are under wood. The real rental in 1847 was
£4,720. Assessed property in 1865, £5,976 4s. 3d.
The only river in the parish is the Ale, which runs
through it, in a narrow valley, from south-west to
north-east. But there are several small lochs — ■
none of them exceeding a mile in circumference —
which discharge their waters into the Ale, and con-
tain trout, perch, and pike. There are eight land-
owners : the chief of whom are Scott of Synton and
the Earl of Minto. The parish was formerly a
vicarage belonging to the chapter of Glasgow; and
the greater number of the present proprietors still
hold of the college of Glasgow. The bishop of Glas-
gow had a palace here, of which the last relics have
disappeared within the memory of man. The
parish itself was in early times wholly divided
amongst the family of Scott. The road from Selkirk
to Hawick traverses the interior; and the village
of Ashkirk stands on that road and on the banks of
the Ale 5 miles from Selkirk and 6 from Hawick.
Population of the parish in 1831, 597; in 1861, 578.
Houses, 104. Population of the Selkirkshire dis-
trict in 1861, 187. Houses, 37.
This parish is in the presbytery of Selkirk and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Earl
of Minto. Stipend, £205 12s. 9d.; glebe, £27.
Unappropriated teinds, £636 lis. 4d. School-
master's salary, £50, with £10 fees. The parish
church was built in 1791, and has 202 sittings.
There is a Free church, with an attendance of
about 65 ; and the yearly sum raised in connexion
with it in 1865 was £55 lis. 5|d.
ASHTON, a prolongation of the village ol
Gourock, in the parish of Innerkip, Renfrewshire.
It extends southward along the coast, and along
the road toward Innerkip, and confronts Dunoon
ASKA1G.
87
ASSYNT.
and the Holy Loch. It consists principally of
a long anil beautiful series of comfortable villas;
and it contains an United Presbyterian church. See
Gourock.
ASKAIG (Port), a small haven on the north-
cast coast of May, 1 1 miles distant from Bowmore,
and 35 from East Tarbert. There is a good inn
here, and the vicinity is well-wooded. Lead-mines
were at one time wrought a little to the north-west
of this place.
ASSEL. See Girvax.
ASSLEEP, a rivulet of Aberdeenshire. It rises
in the north-east of Monquhitter, and separates that
parish from the parishes of New Deer and Methlick,
and has altogether a southerly course of about 7 or
S miles to the Ythan.
ASSYNT, or Assist, a large highland parish in
the south-west of Sutherlandshire. It contains a
post-office at the village of Lochinver, and another
of its own name in the vicinity of the church. The
name is a contraction of arpis-int, literally 'in and
out;' and is supposed to have been originally ap-
plied to it as descriptive of its extraordinarily rag-
ged surface and broken outline. Its area is esti-
mated at 100,000 acres; and its circumference at
90 miles. On the north it is bounded by the Minch,
and by the Kylecuigh or Kyle Skou, " across which
a stone may be slung," and its extremities Loch
Dow and Loch Coul. From the eastern end of Loch
Coul, an imaginary line, drawn in a south-ea6t di-
rection across the summits of the mountains to
Glashben, completes the boundary betwixt Assynt
and Edderachillis parish. The boundary line then
turns south-west, for a distance of about 10 miles,
dividing Assynt from Creech parish, and from Ross-
shire; it then assumes a westerly direction, and
passes by Loch Vattie, and Loch Faun or Loch
Fane, to Inverkirkaig, where it meets the sea, divid-
ing Assynt, in this direction, from the shire of Cro-
marty. The Kirkaig flows out of Loch Fane, and
forms a fine cascade at a point in its course about 2
miles from the sea. The general course of the coast-
line, from the mouth of the Kirkaig to Ku-Stoer. —
a distance of 20 miles, — is from south-south-east to
north-north-west, and presents " islands, bays, and
headlands, without end, but not a feature to distin-
guish one from another, nor a cliff nor a promontory
to tempt a moment's stay;" all is dreary, desolate,
and mountainous. Loch Inver is a fishing-station,
and presents a pretty good harbour. The Inver
flows into its head from Loch Assynt. The point of
Stoer, or the Ru-Stoer, is a remarkable detached
mass of sandstone, rising to the height of about 200
feet. A little to the south of the Ru is Soay island,
measuring about 4 furlongs in length, by 3 in
breadth. It is flat, and covered with heather and
coarse grass. About a mile to the south of Soay, is
the islet of Klett. But the principal island belong-
ing to Assynt is Oldney or Oldemay, which is
divided from the mainland by a channel in some
parts not exceeding 20 yards in width. It is about
a mile in length, by 2 furlongs in breadth; and was
inhabited, in 1836, by twelve families.
The main line of road through this parish enters
from the south, at Aultnacealgeich burn, 10 miles
from the bridge of Oykell, at the upper end of Loch
Boarlan. A little beyond this, a road branches-off
to the west towards Crockan, whence there is a road
to Ullapool, on Loch Broom, 16 miles distant. Pur-
suing the main line, we arrive at Ledbeg, whence a
detour may be made by the south side of Suilbhein
to Inverkirkaig, provided the traveller dare encoun-
ter a very ragged journey, presenting only one habi-
table shieling in its whole course, namely Brackloch
at the western end of Loch Caum, a very fine fresh
water loch. There is another, and a more danger*
ous route in winter, between the Suilbhein and its
mountain-brother Cannishh or Canisp. After leav-
ing Ledbeg we enter the glen of Assynt. This glen
is very narrow, and has various windings, so that
one is quite near Loch Assynt before being aware of
it. Immediately before arriving at it, a very singu-
lar ridge of rock bounds the glen and the road on
the right. This ridge rises to a perpendicular height
of 300 feet : it is of blue limestone, and its mural
surface has been worn away in many places in such
a manner as to present the appearance of the win-
dows, tracery, and fret-work of an ancient cathedral.
Alpine plants and creeping-shrubs ornament with
their graceful drapery eveiy crevice and opening
of these lofty rocks, and altogether create a scene
of most picturesque though fantastic beauty. At
length on turning round the edge of this ridge,
the traveller finds himself at the village of Inch-
ua-damph, or Innesindamff, and the head of Loch
Assynt. This lake is about 16 j miles in length,
and 1 mile in greatest breadth. It receives the wa-
ters of many mountain-streams, and empties itself
into Loch Inver, an arm of the sea of which mention
has already been made. On the shores of Loch
Assynt, near the village of Inch-na-damph, there
are quarries of white marble, which were at one
time wrought by an Englishman; but since his
death they seem to be entirely neglected. If one may
judge from the blocks lying about, the marble seems
to be pure and capable of receiving a high polish;
but from whatever cause, it is now only used for
building diy stone-dykes and highland cottages.
" At Ledbeg," says Dr. Macculloch, " I found the
cottages built of bright white marble; the walls
forming a strange contrast with the smoke and dirt
inside, the black thatch, the dubs, the midden, and
the peat-stacks. This marble has not succeeded in
attaining a higher dignity." And marble cottages
may be seen at other places besides Ledbeg, present-
ing the same strange contrast. The Assynt marble
is similar in colour and quality to that of Skye, has
a clouded silver grey appearance, and is found
among micaceous formations. Loch Assynt lies in
a very pleasing green valley, though it does not —
except at its head and beyond the village of Inch-
na-damph — afford much of the picturesque or the
romantic. The mountain of Cunaig, however, on
the north side of the lake, and Bein-mhor or Ben-
more, with the other mountains which terminate the
glen to the east, present scenes of much grandeur
and magnificence. The ancient castle of Ardvraick,
and the rained house of the Earls of Seaforth, with
.the village and churchyard at the head of the lake,
give an interest to Loch Assynt not often to be felt
among the inland waters of these northern regions.
Pursuing our route along the northern side of the
loch, we pass the rains of Ardvraick castle, situated
on a rocky peninsula which projects a considerable
way into the lake. This castle was long the resi-
dence of the Macleods, and in particular that of
Donald Bane More; it was built in the year 1597,
or 1591, and mnst have been a place of strength in
ancient times. When the estate came into the Sea-
forth family, they erected a new mansion near the
shore of the lake. This mansion is also now in
rains. Adjoining the present parish -church, and
within the burying-ground, near the village of Inch-
na-damph, are the remains of an ancient Popish
chapel, said to be the oldest place of worship exist-
ing in this district. On the farm of Clachtoll are
the remains of an ancient Druidical temple. At
Ledbeg a pnming-hook was found under the moss
several years since, the use of which puzzled the
natives of the place not a little. But a late Earl oi
ASSYNT.
ASSYNT.
Bristol, then Bishop of Deny, happening to pass a
few days here, pronounced it to be a pruning-hook
used hy the Druids, with which they yearly cut the
sacred misletoe from the oak. On reaching the
northern end of Loch Assynt, one branch of the
road turns westward to Loch Inver, following the
northern bank of the river Inver; while another
branch runs north to Unapool on the Kylecuigh,
beyond which there is a ferry to Grinan, in Eddera-
chillis, whence it proceeds along the coast to Scourie
lake.
In the southern part of Assynt are several de-
tached mountains of singular form. Dr. Macculloch
has written of them so correctly, and described them
so graphically, that although at some length, we
must furnish the reader with his remarks. In talk-
ing of sandstone mountains, in his geological work,
he says: "The independence of many of these hills
forms one of the most remarkable parts of the char-
acter of this rock. In many places, they rise sud-
denly from a hilly land of moderate elevation com-
posed of gneiss, attaining at once to an height
above it of 1,000 or 2,000 feet. They are often
separated by miles. In other cases, they are grouped,
but still distinct at their base. Where insulated,
they have a very striking effect, of which examples
occur in Sul-bhein, and Coul-bheg. Similarly power-
ful effects result from the suddenness of their rise,
— the summit, with the whole declivity, being visible
from the base." Farther on, in the same work, he
says, " It might be expected that the pinnacled
summits and detached hills had resulted from the
waste of the erect varieties, but in Coul-bheg, Coul-
more, Sul-bhein, &c, they are produced by the
wearing down of strata nearly horizontal ; the harder
portions, in the former case, remaining like pillars
of masonry or artificial cairns. The west side of
Sutherland and Ross consists of a basis of gneiss,
forming an irregular and hilly surface, varying, in
extreme cases, from 100 to 1,500 feet in height, but
often presenting a considerable extent of table-land.
On this base, are placed various mountains, either
far detached, or collected in groups ; and all rising
to an average altitude of about 3,000 feet above the
sea. The stratification of these is horizontal or
slightly inclined. It follows that the whole of this
country has been once covered with a body of sand-
stone, equal in thickness — in certain points at least
— to the present remaining portions." In his let-
ters on the Highlands [Vol. ii. p. 345] again, he
thus describes Sul-bhein. " It loses no part of its
strangely incongruous character on a near approach.
It remains as lofty, as independent, and as much
like a sugar-loaf, (really not metaphorically,) when
at its foot as when far off at sea. In one respect it
gains, or rather the spectator does, by a more inti-
mate acquaintance. It might have been covered
with grass to the imagination ; but the eye sees and
the hand feels that it is rock above, below, and
round about. The narrow front, that which pos-
sesses the conical outline, has the appearance of a
precipice, although not rigidly so ; since it consists
of a series of rocky cliffs piled in terraced succession
above each other; the grassy surfaces of which being
invisible from beneath, the whole seems one rude
and broken cliff, rising suddenly and abruptly from
the irregular table-land below to the height of a
thousand feet. The effect of a mountain thus seen,
is always striking ; because, towering aloft into the
sky, it fills the eye and the imagination. Here, it
is doubly impressive from the wide and open range
around, in the midst of which this gigantic mass
stands alone and unrivalled, — a solitary and enor-
mous beacon, rising to the clouds from the far-ex-
tended ocean - like waste of rocks and rudeness.
Combining, in some positions, with the distant and
elegant forms of Canasp, Coul-bheg, and Ben-More,
it also offers more variety than could be expected ;
while even the general landscape is varied by the
multiplicity of rocks and small lakes with which the
whole country is interspersed. The total altitude
from the sea line is probably about 2,500 feet; the
table-land whence this and most other of the moun
tains of this coast rise, appearing to have an extreme
elevation of 1,500. To almost all but the shepherds,
Sul-bhein is inaccessible: one of our sailors, well-
used to climbing, reached the summit, with difficulty,
and had much more in descending. Sheep scramble
about it in search of the grass that grows in the in-
tervals of the rocks ; but so perilous is this trade to
them, that this mountain with its pasture — which,
notwithstanding its rocky aspect, is considerable —
is a negative possession; causing a deduction of
fifteen or twenty pounds a-year from the value of
the farm to which it belongs, instead of adding to
its rent." — At page 354 of the same work, the Doc-
tor gives the following description of Coul-bheg:
" The whole of this coast, from Coycraig in Assynt,
as far as Ben-More at Loch-Broom, presents a most
singular mountain outline; but Coul-bheg is even
more remarkable than Sul-bhein, while its form is
more elegant and versatile. In every view, it is as
graceful and majestic as it is singular ; and, like the
other mountains of this extraordinary shore, it has
every advantage that can rise from independence of
position ; rising a huge and solitary cone, from the
high land beneath, and lifting its dark precipice in
unattended majesty to the clouds. The ascent from
the shore to the base of the rocky cone is long and
tedious, over a land of lakes and rocks ; but beyond
that there is no access. All around is barrenness
and desertion; except where some lake, glittering
bright in the sunshine, gives life, — a still life, — to
the scene ; and the eye ranges far and wide over the
land, seeing nothing but the white quartz summits
of Canasp, Coycraig, and Ben -More, — the long
streams of stones that descend from their sides, —
and the brown waste of heath around, interspersed
with grey protruding rocks that would elsewhere be
hills, and with numerous lakes that seem but pools
amid the spacious desert." In spite, however, oi
the many difficulties which must attend a close
examination of this land of mountains and floods,
the traveller who chooses to undergo the fatigue,
and to encounter the difficulties of attempting to
penetrate its recesses, will find much to please and
still more to astonish him amidst its gigantic and
awful mountains and lonely valleys. To those
"who love the pathless solitude
Where, in wild grandeur, Nature dwells alone
On the bleak mountain, and the uusculptured stone,
'Slid torrents, and dark range of forests wide,"
the solemn and sublime scenery of Assynt will afford
moments of exquisite pleasure. One oft feels in
wandering through its superb solitudes as if the next
step would conduct him into the ideal and superna-
tural. To the geologist, nothing further need be
said, to incite him to investigate this district most
minutely, than a reference to the quotations from Dr.
Macculloch already given.
The district of Assynt is said to have been in
early times a forest belonging to the ancient thanes
of Sutherland, the ancestors of the present Dukn
of Sutherland. In the reign of David II., Torquil
Macleod, chief of the Macleods of Lewis, had a royal
grant of Assynt. In 1506, on the forfeiture of Mac-
leod of Lewis, Y Mackay of Strathnaver received a
life-rent grant of Assynt. About the year 1660,
both the property and superiority of Assynt passed
ASSYNT.
80
ATHELSTANEFORD.
from the Macleods to the Earl of Seaforth. He made
it over to one of his younger sons, whose heirs held
it for three or four generations. It was afterwards
Eurchased by Lady Strathnaver, who presented it to
at grandson, William Earl of Sutherland; and it
is now the property of that Earl's grandson, the
present Duke of Sutherland. It was in this district
that the great Marquis of Montrose was taken pri-
soner, and delivered up to the Covenanters. After
his defeat, and the ruin of all his hopes, at Carbis-
dale, "Montrose, accompanied by the Earl of Kin-
noul, who had lately succeeded to the title on the
death of his brother, and six or seven companions,
having dismounted from his horse and thrown away
his cloak and sword, and having, by the advice of
his friends, to avoid detection, exchanged his clothes
for the more homely attire of a common highlander,
wandered all night and the two following days
among bleak and solitary regions, without knowing
where to proceed, and ready to perish under the ac •
cumulated distresses of hunger, fatigue, and anxiety
of mind. The Earl of Kinnoul, unable, from ex-
haustion, to follow Montrose any further, was left
among the mountains, where it is supposed he per-
ished. When upon the point of starvation, Mon-
trose was fortunate to light upon a small cottage,
where he obtained a supply of milk and bread, on
receiving which he continued his lonely and danger-
ous course among the mountains of Sutherland, at
the risk of being seized every hour, and dragged as
a felon before the very man whom, only a few
days before, he had threatened with his vengeance.
In the meantime, active search was made after
Montrose. As it was conjectured that he might
attempt to reach Caithness, where his natural bro-
ther, Henry Graham, still remained with some troops
in possession of the castle of Dunbeath, and as it
appeared probable, from the direction Montrose was
supposed to have taken, that he meant to go through
Assynt, Captain Andrew Munro sent instructions to
Neil Macleod, the laird of Assynt, his brother-in-
law, to apprehend every stranger that might enter
his hounds, in the hope of catching Montrose, for
whose apprehension a splendid reward was offered.
In consequence of these instructions, Macleod sent
out various parties in quest of Montrose, but they
could not fall in with him. ' At last, (says*Bishop
Wishart) the laird of Assynt being abroad in arms
with some of his tenants in search of him, lighted
on him in a place where he had continued three or
four days without meat or drink, and only one man
in his company.' The bishop then states, that
' Assynt had formerly been one of Montrose's own
followers ; who immediately knowing him, and be-
lieving to find friendship at his hands, willingly
discovered himself; but Assynt not daring to con-
ceal him, and being greedy of the reward which was
promised to the person who should apprehend him
by the council of the estates, immediately seized
and disarmed him.' This account differs a little
from that of the author of the continuation of Sir
Robert Gordon's history, who says, that it was one
of Macleod's parties that apprehended Montrose, but
is altogether silent to Assynt's having been a fol-
lower of Montrose ; but both writers inform us that
Montrose offered Macleod a large sum of money for
his liberty, which he refused to grant. Macleod
kept Montrose and his companion. Major Sinclair,
an Orkney gentleman, prisoners in the castle of
Ardvraick, his principal residence. By order of
Leslie, Montrose was thence removed to Skibo cas-
tle, where he was kept two nights, thereafter to the
castle of Braan, and thence again to Edinburgh."
[Browne's ' History of the Highlands,' vol. ii. pp.
35, 36.]
Above two-thirds of the inhabitants of Assynt re-
side on the sea-shore. In the district around Loch
Inver there was, in 1831, a population of about 659;
in the Kyleside district, 456 ; in each of the two
hamlets of Knockan and Elphine, 250; and at Una-
pool, 8 or 9 families. The population of the whole
parish in 1831 was 3,161 ; in 1861, 3,178. Houses,
577. Assessed property in 1860, £3,879.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dornoch and
synod of Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, the
Duke of Sutherland. Stipend, £158 6s. 7d; glebe,
£27 10s. The parish church was built about 1770,
and repaired in 1816, and has about 270 sittings.
The parish minister officiates at two preaching sta-
tions, the one at Loch Inver, the other at Kyleside,
and both about 14 miles from the patnsh church.
There is a government church with a minister of its
own, at Stoer. See Stoer. There are two Free
churches, — the one at Assynt, and the other at
Stoer; and the yearly sunt raised in connexion with
the former in 1865 was £79. There are seven
schools, inclusive of the parochial one.
ASTOUNE. See Alj-ohd.
ATHELSTANEFOKD, a parish, containing the
post-office villages of Athelstaneford and Drem, in
the northern part of Haddingtonshire. The village
of Athelstaneford gave name to the parish; and,
according to Buchanan and Camden, it got its own
name from the following incident. In one of his
predatory incursions, Athelstane, a Danish chief,
who had received a grant of Northumberland from
King Alured, arrived in this part of the country;
and, engaging in battle with Hungus, king of the
Picts, was pulled with violence from his horse and
here slain. The rivulet where the battle was fought
is in the immediate neighbourhood of the village,
and is still called Lug Down burn, supposed to be a
corruption of Eug Down. Buchanan adds, that
Hungus was encouraged to hazard this battle by a
vision of St. Andrew the apostle, who appeared to
him the preceding night and promised him success ;
and that the victory was facilitated by the miracu-
lous appearance of a cross in the air, in the form of
the letter X, over a farm-hamlet which still retains
the name of Martle, a supposed contraction of mir-
acle. Achaius, king of the Scots, by whose assist-
ance Hungus obtained this victory, in commemo-
ration of the event is said to have instituted the
order of St. Andrew. Thus far tradition. Etymo-
logy, however, would give a simpler account of the
matter. Aih-ail means, in Gaelic, 'a stone ford;'
and there is such a ford, — a narrow, deep, stony
path, — across the Lug Down rivulet. Saxon set-
tlers, finding the Ath-ail ab-eady in existence, super-
added to it, in their own language, stone ford.
(See Chalmers's ' Caledonia,' Vol. II. p. 516.) The
lands on which the battle was fought were bestowed
on the Culdee priory of St. Andrews, and are now
held in perpetual lease by Kinloch of Gilmerton.
The parish of Athelstaneford is divided from that
of Haddington on the south and south-west by the
rivulet formerly mentioned, the Lug Down burn.
This rivulet rises in the Garleton hills, and falls into
the frith of Forth on the north side of Tynningham
bay, after a course of about 5 miles. On the north
this parish is separated from that of Dirleton by
another small rivulet called the Peffer. See the ar-
ticle Peffer. The ground rises gradually from this
rivulet to the southern extremity of the parish,
where the village of Athelstaneford and the church
stand. The parish is about 4 miles in length, from
west to east ; and between 2 and 3 in breadth, from
south to north. Previous to 1658 it did not contain
above 800 or 1,000 acres; and the Earl of Wintoun
was the sole proprietor of all the lands. At that
ATHOLE.
90
AUCHENCAIRN.
period it was considerably enlarged by annexations
from the parishes of Haddington and Prestonkirk ;
so that the whole extent of it is now above 4,000
acres, of which 3,750 are arable. About one-third
belongs to Sir David Kinloch of Gilmerton, whose
residence is the only large mansion in the parish ;
and the rest is divided among the Earl of Hopetoun,
the Earl of Wemyss, Lord Elibank, Sir James W.
Dmmmond, and two other proprietors. A manu-
facture of striped variegated woollen cloth, which
was held in esteem in Edinburgh under the name of
the Gilmerton livery, once existed in the village of
Athelstaneford, but is now extinct. The North
British Eailway passes south-eastward through the
parish, and commands a good view of its surface, and
has a station in it at Drem, and sends off here the
branch toward North Berwick. The chief antiqui-
ties in this parish are the vestiges of a camp, or
perhaps of a Pictish town, concerning which there
is no tradition, and history is silent; and the re-
mains of a chapel, in the village of Drem, called St.
John's chapel, which belonged to the Knights Tem-
plars. These are both on the property of the Earl
of Hopetoun. The house of Garleton, too, may be
mentioned under this head. It appears to have once
been a place of magnificence, but is now a complete
ruin. It is beautifully situated at the foot of the
Garleton hills. Towards the end of the 16th, and
beginning of the 17th century, a great part of the
lower lands of East Lothian was possessed by the
Hepburns, collateral branches of the Earls of Both-
well. A gentleman of that name was proprietor of
the lands of Athelstaneford. A second son of his
went into the Swedish service, and afterwards into
the French service, and died a field-marshal of
France. Blair, the author of ' The Grave,' and
Home, the author of ' Douglas,' were ministers of
this parish. Blair's grandfather was Robert Blair,
the celebrated Covenanter ; and his son rose to be
Lord President of the Court of Session. After Home
demitted his charge, he built a villa in the parish,
called Kilduff, and laid out the grounds around it
with considerable taste. Skirving, the author of a
famous ballad on the battle of Prestonpans, and his
son, Archibald Skirving, a very distinguished por-
trait painter, were also connected with this parish.
Population of the village of Athelstaneford in 1851,
274. Population of the parish in 1831, 931 ; in 1861,
902. Houses, 222. Assessed property, in 1865,
£9.360 Is.
This parish is in the presbytery of Haddington,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Sir
David Kinloch, Bart. Stipend, £262 0s. 6d; glebe,
£15. Unappropriated teinds, £372 16s. lid. School-
master's salary, £50, with about £48 fees. The ori-
ginal parish church — of which there are still some
remains — was built by Ada, wife of Henry of Scot-
land, and annexed to her abbey in the neighbour-
hood of Haddington. The present church was built
in 1780, and contains about 500 sittings. There
are two private schools, and a parochial library.
ATHOLE, a mountainous district in the north of
Perthshire, bounded on the north by Badenoch in
Inverness-shire ; on the north-east by Mar in Aber-
deenshire ; on the east by Forfarshire ; on the south
by the districts of Stormont and Breadalbane in
Perthshire ; and on the west and north-west by
ljOchaber in Invemess-shire. Sir John Sinclair esti-
mates its superficial area at 450 square miles. The
face of the country is highly picturesque, every-
where presenting lofty mountains, extensive lakes,
deep glens, solemn forests, and all the finer features
of Highland scenery. It is, moreover, " a land praised
in song, richly wooded, yet highly cultivated and
thickly inhabited." The loftiest mountain is Cairn
Gower, one of the Ben-y-Gloe ridge, on the east d
Glen Tilt, which rises to the height of 3,725 feet.
The Scarscock, at the point of junction with Aber-
deenshire, is assigned by some topographers to this
district of Perthshire. Its altitude is stated by some
at 3,402; by others at 3,390 feet. The Blair, or
Field of Athole, is an open fertile vale, intersected
by the Garry, and generally presenting only low and
rounded eminences. See article Blair - Athole.
The other streams in this district are the Edendon,
the Bruar, and the Tilt, which are all tributaries of
the Garry; the Airdle, a tributary of the Ericht:
and the Tumel, into which the Garry flows. All
these streams belong to the basin of the Tay, and
are described, in this work, in separate articles
The principal lakes are Loeh Ericht, Loch Eannoch,
Loch Tumel, and Loch Garry, to which separate
articles are also devoted. The Forest of Athole,
the property of the Duke of Athole, contains up
wards of 100,000 acres, stocked with red deer, moor-
game, and ptarmigans, which are also preserved in
the adjoining forests of the Earl of Fife, the Marquis
of Huntly, and Farquharson of Invercauld. Athole
gives the title of Duke to a branch of the Murray
family. Sir John Murray was created a baron in
1604," and Earl of Tullibardine in 1606. The sixth
Earl was created Marquis of Athole in 1676; and
the second Marquis, Duke of Athole in 1703. The
Athole-men have always been found, to use the
language of old Froissart, " good chivalry, strong of
limb and stout of heart, and in great abundance ; "
and their feuds with the followers of Argyle form
a bloody chapter in Highland history. Stoddart
says, that many of the Athole-men are good per-
formers on the -Great Highland bagpipe. He also
notices the once-famed ' Athole-brose,' a composi-
tion of whiskey, honey, and eggs, as forming " an
indispensable dainty in the feast, and no unimpor-
tant addition to the Materia Medica." [Remarks,
Vol. II. p. 182.] This was written in 1800: proba-
bly Athole-brose is now banished foom the feast, as
it certainly is from the Materia Medica of all wise
people in Athole. Claverhouse, Viscount Dundee,
ended his fierce career, in the battle of Killiecrankie,
a celebrated pass in Athole. See articles Blair-
Athole, Killiecrankie, and Perthshire.
AUCH-. See Ach-.
AUCHALLADER. See Glenorcht.
AITCHANS. See Duxdohald.
AUCHENAIRN, (Old and New,) a village m
the under ward and shire of Lanark, parish of Cad-
der, 3 miles north by east of Glasgow. In 1745, the
Rev. James Warden, a native of this village, and
minister of the parish, bequeathed 1,000 merks to
the session, the interest of which is allotted to the
support of a school here. In 1764, William Leech-
man, D.D., principal of the university of Glasgow,
disponed to the session of Cadder about half-an-acre
of ground, for a house and garden for the benefit of
this school, of which the minister and elders are
patrons. A new school-house was erected in 1826.
Population, 744.
AUCHENBATHIE. See Lochwiknooh.
AUCHENBEATTY. See Kirkmahoe.
AUCHENBOWIE. See Nisians (St).
AUCHENCAIRN, a village, with a post-office
in the parish of Rerrick, Kirkcudbrightshire. It
stands at the head of a bay of its own name, amid a
beautiful tract of country, 7 miles east of Kirkcud-
bright. It is not built on any regular plan, but
consists of good houses, with interspersion of trees,
and has a cheerful and prosperous appearance. Here
is a Free church, whose yearly sum raised in 1865
was £213 19s. 5d. Here also are several schools.
A little south of the village is the old mansion of
AUCHENDAVY.
91
AUCHINDOIR.
Auehencairn ; and on the banks of the bay are the
charming residences of Collin, Nutwood, and Bal-
cary. The bay is about 2J miles long and about 1
mile broad; and right across its mouth lies the green
isle of Heston, giving it. a land-locked and lake-like
appearance. At low water the bay presents an un-
interrupted bed of smooth sand, which is so dry and
firm that horse-races have been hohlen upon it;
small craft may load and unload in any part of it ;
and on the west side is a capacious natural basin,
where vessels of burden may lie in safety from every
storm. Population, 390.
AUCHENCRUIVE. See Qmvox (St.).
AUCHENDAVY, or Auchentjowie, a small vil-
lage in the parish of Kirkintilloch, about 2 miles
east of the town of Kirkintilloch, Dumbartonshire.
Here stood one of the forts of Antoninus' Wall; but
it was cut through by the Forth and Clyde canal,
and has been otherwise almost totally obliterated.
Several curious discoveries of Roman remains have
at different times been made here; but the most re-
markable— to quote from the Caledonia Eomana —
" was the accidental opening, in the month of May,
1771, while the works of the Forth and Clyde canal
were in progress, of a pit nine feet in depth, situated
just without the south-west angle of the fort, which
contained four Roman altars, with part of a fifth, a
mutilated stone figure, and two ponderous iron ham-
mers. Three of the altars had been broken through
the middle, and all were lying huddled together, as
if they had been hastily thrown in, and then covered
with earth to conceal them from view — telling, as
they lay, a silent but expressive tale of the sudden
order of retreat, the precipitate muster of the garri-
son, the hurried dismantling of the station, and of
the retiring footsteps of the legionary cohorts, as
they defiled upon a southern route; while, perhaps,
the shouts of the advancing Britons were already
heard in the distance — startling the wild boar in the
woods beyond Inchtarf, and the water-fowl among
the sedges of the Kelvin."
AUCHENDRANE. See Maybole.
AUCHENDRYNE, a village in the parish of
Crathie, Aberdeenshire. It stands on the west side
of the Clunie, opposite Castleton of Braemar, and is
often regarded as part of that village. Great ga-
therings took place here in the olden time for hunt-
ing deer in the forest. See Castleton.
AUCHENGELLOCH, a wild locality, quite inac-
cessible to cavalry, and famous for its conventicles
in the times of the Stuarts, in the parish of Avon-
dale, Lanarkshire. A small monument was erected
on it, a number of years ago, in memory of the suf-
ferings of the Covenanters.
ATJCHENGRAY, a station on the Caledonian rail-
way, in the parish of Carnwath, and north-east border
of Lanarkshire. It is situated in a bleak moorland
region, 5A miles north of Carnwath and 6J south of
West Calder. The branch line to the Wilsontown
Iron Works goes off here, with a forked or double
junction.
AUCHENLOCH, a small village on the east side
of the parish of Cadder, Lanarkshire. It stands
about 2 miles south of Kirkintilloch, adjacent to the
bed of a large drained lake.
AUCHENREOCH. See Ure and Dumbarton.
AUCHENSAUGH, a hill in the parish of Douglas,
Lanarkshire, — conspicuous for elevation above many
surrounding hills, with the exception of Caimtable,
— but chiefly remarkable for the swearing of the
Solemn League and Covenant upon it by a body of
Cameronians toward the close of the 17th century.
AUCHINARROW. See Cromdale.
AUCHINBLAE, a village, with a post-office, in
the parish of Fordoun, Kincardineshire. It stands
on a gentle rising-ground, washed by the rivulet
Luther, amid the beautiful scenery of Strathfinella,
bh miles north-north-east of Laurencekirk, 1 1 south
west of Stonehaven, and 16 north of Montrose. An
omnibus runs regularly between it and a station of
the Aberdeen railway between Laurencekirk and
Dnimlithie. The village contains many substan-
tial houses, and has a clean, cheerful, and prosper-
ous appearance. It contains a flax spinning-mill,
and a considerable number of hand-looms, engaged
in linen-weaving. It contains also an office of the
North of Scotland Bank. A weekly market for grain
and cattle is held on every Friday from November
till April; two large annual general fairs are held
on the third Thursday of April and on the Wednes-
day after the second Tuesday of May; and hiring
markets for servants are held on the 26th of May
and the 22d of November. Population, 570.
AUCHINCASS. See Ktrkpatrick-Juxta.
AUCHINCHEW, a romantic vale in the south of
the island of Arran. It commences at the base of
Kuockleearlew, and extends southward to the coast
opposite the beautiful island of Pladda. Its flanks
are cloven by ravines, and streaked with leaping
rills. One of the cascades in it, called Essmore,
makes a perpendicular descent of about 100 feet,
into a magnificent cliff-walled amphitheatre, and
serves as a landmark to mariners, and sometimes
forms a brilliant circular iris.
AUCHINCLOCH. See Kilsyth
AUCHINCRAW, a village in the parish of Cold-
ingham, 3 miles north-north-west of Chiraside,
Berwickshire. Population in 1841, 203.
AUCHINDACHY, a station on the Great North of
Scotland railway, 3h miles south-west of Keith.
AUCHINDINNY, a village on the south-east
border of the parish of Lasswade, Edinburghshire.
It stands romantically on the North Esk, 8 miles
south of Edinburgh. Here are extensive paper-
mills. Henry Mackenzie, the " Man of Feeling,"
often resided at Auchindinny House.
AUCHINDOIR am. KEAEN, a mountainous
parish, containing the post-office village of Liuns-
den, in the western part of Aberdeenshire; bounded
on the north by the parish of Ebynie ; on the east
by the parish of Tullynessle ; on the south and west
by Kildrummy and Cabrach parishes. The etymo-
logy of the name, Auchindoir, is uncertain. It is
supposed to signify ' The Field of the Chase or Pur-
suit.' " Buchanan tells us, that Luthlac, son to the
usurper Macbeth, having been pursued northward
by Malcolm, was slain ' in the valley of Bogie.' The
spot where he was slain is thought to be about 2
miles to the north of the church of Auchindoir, but
in the parish of Rhynie, in a place where a large
stone with some warlike figures on it has been set
up. If so, it is not improbable that Luthlac was
overtaken about a mile to the south of the church,
in the place where a number of caims now are ; that
being defeated, he has been pursued through the
valley of Auchindoir, which lies between the cairns
and the figured stone; and that from this pursuit,
the parish of Auchindoir has taken its name." [Sta-
tistical Report of 1792.] The greatest length of the
parish is 9 miles; and greatest breadth 6. Its out-
line is very irregular. The larger part of the sur-
face consists of hills and moors. Some of the moun-
tains attain a great elevation. The Buck of Cabrach,
over which the western boundary line of the parish
runs, has, according to Ainslie, an altitude of 2,377
feet, or, according to the map of the Society for the
Diffusion of Useful Knowledge, of 2,286 feet, above
sea-level; and though more than 30 miles distant
from the sea, is visible 10 leagues from shore. The
principal stream is the Bogie. It is formed by two
AUCHINDOIB.
92
AUCHLNLECK.
rivulets, the burn of Craig, and the burn of Corchin-
nan, flowing eastward into union near the parish
church ; and the united stream then runs north-
westward through a rich strath or valley, to which
it gives name. See Bogie (The). There is plenty
of fine trout in it ; but scarcely any salmon, except
in the spawning season. The Don touches the south-
east corner of the parish, and there receives the
Mossat, which divides Auchindoir from Kildrummy.
If we include a part of Kearn and Kildrummy, the
valley of Auchindoir is nearly surrounded by a range
of hills. From these, several smaller hills shoot for-
ward into this valley ; and the hills are indented
by gullies, and deep narrow hollows ; the whole
presenting a prospect, which, though confined, and
in most places bleak, to the admirers of wild and
romantic scenery is by no means unpleasant. Ex-
cept in the hilly parts, the parish is well cultivated,
and the soil is generally good. Wheat is not grown,
but excellent crops of barley and oats are produced,
and many cattle and sheep are reared. Game of
various kinds is abundant. Except on Donside and
at Craig, there is little wood, the hills being mostly
covered only with their native heath. The rock of
a large part of the parish is sandstone ; and it is
extensively quarried for building purposes. The
Coreen hills are mainly composed of mica schist,
from which flag-stones forming excellent pavement
are quarried. Towan-reef is formed of serpentine,
along with which talc, soapstone, and the rather
rare mineral asbestos are found. Limestone and
slate occur in small quantities, with granite, green-
stone, and other minerals. The chief proprietors
are Mr. Lumsden of Auchindoir, Mr. Gordon of
Craig, Mr. Grant of Drumminor, Mr. Gordon of
Wardhouse, and Lord Forbes. Craig Castle is a
very elegant mansion, the oldest portion of it built
in 1518 ; and it is finely situated in a wild romantic
ravine, the Den of Craig, celebrated in elegant
Latin verse by Arthur Johnston. The Den is
richly wooded ; and the main branch of the Bogie
flows through it, with some pleasant waterfalls.
The old church, built in 1557, stands on the north-
east part of the Den ; and the walls of it are almost
entire, and in some parts of exquisite workmanship.
Drumminor House is mainly a very handsome mo-
dern edifice, and includes part of a previous man-
sion, which was formerly Castle-Forbes, the seat of
Lord Forbes, now removed to the parish of Keig.
The remains of the old church of Kearn are beside
Drumminor ; and that church was formerly the
burying-plaoe of the Forbeses. "On a little hill close
by the church," says the Old Statistical Report,
" there was anciently a castle, said to be mentioned
by Boetius; but no traces of the walls of it remain.
It has been defended on three sides by rooks and
precipices, and on the fourth by a moat or deep ex-
cavation, evidently the work of art. There are sev-
eral other antiquities, such as tumuli, barrows," &c.
The turnpike from Alford to Huntly traverses the
parish. Population in 1831, 1.030; in 1861, 1,593.
Houses, 290. Valued rental in 1865, £5,604 lis. 5d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Alford, and
synod of Aberdeen. In 1791, by a decreet of the
court of teinds, the parish of Kearn was disjoined
from that of Forbes, and annexed to Auchindoir.
Patron, the Earl of Fife. Minister's stipend, £158
Is., with manse and glebe. Schoolmaster's salary
of the first parochial school, there being two, £20.
The parish church was built in 1811 and has 450
sittings. There is a Free church; and the yearly
sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £61 2s.
8d. The Free church for Rhynie also was built with-
in the border of Auchindoir, in the face of opposition
from the landowner of Rhynie, and witli such speed
and enthusiasm that it was almost literally "a
church built in a day;" yearly sum raised in 1865,
£26 Is. 5Jd. There are also, in the parish, a United
Presbyterian church and an Episcopalian church ;
and there are a Free church female school, and one
or two private schools.
AUCHINDUNE. See Moktlach.
AUCHINHALRIG, a small village in the Banff-
shire section of the parish of Bellie, about 2| miles
north-east of Fochabers. Here is a Roman Catholic
chapel ; and the clergyman who officiates in it re-
sides here, and officiates also in a chapel at Foch-
AUCHINHOVE. See Gkange.
AUCHINLECK, a parish, containing a post-offiee
village of its own name, in the east of the district
of Kyle, Ayrshire. It is bounded on the north by
the parishes of Mauchline, Sorn, and Muirkirk; on
the east by Muirkirk and Crawfordjohn ; on the
south by Kirkconnel, New Cumnock, and Old Cum-
nock ; and on the west by Ochiltree. It is a narrow
strip of country, measuring 16 miles in length,
while it does not exceed two in average breadth.
Its area is 24,295 acres; and about one-third is
under tillage. The upper district is wild and
hilly, though well suited for sheep pasture ; and it
rises, at the summits of Wardlaw and Stony bills,
to the altitude of 1,630 and 1,843 feet. The central
district is more cultivated ; and the western part is
well-enclosed and wooded. The rivers Ayr and
Lugar trace part of the boundaries, — the former on
the east, the latter on the south and the west. The
principal heritor is Lady Boswell, the widow of Sir
James Boswell, Bart.; to whose ancestor the barony
of Auchinleek was granted by James IV. Auchin-
leck House, the seat of Lady Boswell, stands 3 miles
west of the village, and is a fine Grecian mansion,
built toward the end of last century by Lord Auchin-
leek, lord of session, and father of Dr. Johnson's
biographer. Remains of a baronial fortalioe of the
early Boswells, figured by Grose, stand in its neigh-
bourhood ; and Dr. Johnson says, " I was less de-
lighted with the elegance of the modern mansion,
than with the sullen dignity of the old castle. I
clambered among the ruins which afford striking
images of ancient life. It is, like, other castles,
built upon a point of rock ; and was, I believe, an-
ciently surrounded with a moat." Remains of
another old fortalice, called Kyle Castle, are in the
upper district. Airds Moss, so sadly famous in
Cameronian story, also is there. The minerals of
the parish, particularly ironstone, limestone, and
coal, are of great value. A lease of those on the
Auchinleek estate was obtained, about 1848, by
Messrs. Dunlop and Wilson of Clyde Ironworks,
and passed latterly into the hands of Messrs. W.
Baird & Co. of the Eglinton Ironworks. The same
company became proprietors also of the Portland
Ironworks, with a lease of the minerals around
them ; they likewise, in 1865, acquired a lease of the
minerals on the Marquis of Bute's estate in the
neighbouring parish of Cumnock. The Lugar
Ironworks were established by Messrs. Dunlop and
Wilson on the Auchinleek estate ; new furnaces for
them, on a more eligible site, were constructed in
1865, by Messrs. W. Baird & Co., while the old
furnaces were allowed to go to ruin ; and the cal-
cined ironstone, in the meantime, was sent to the
furnaces of Muirkirk and Eglinton. The Glasgow
and Southwestern railway goes across the lower part
of the parish, has a station at the village, and sends
off hence a branch to Muirkirk ; and a new railway,
to be formed from Ayr to Cumnock, and thence by
Muirkirk to Douglas, will give direct communication
to Edinburgh. Considerable sums have recently been
AUCHINLECK.
93
AUCIITERARDEk.
spout, principally on Government loan, in the drain-
age of land. The value of assessed property, in 1843,
was £7,49(5; in 1805, £30,050,— of which £10,785
were on railways. Hand-loom weaving and snuff-
box making were long extensive employments ; but
within the 40 years ending in 1805, the former de-
clined to about one-fifth of what it was, and the lat-
ter in even greater proportion. The village of
Auchinleck stands on the Glasgow and Dumfries
road, 1$ mile from Old Cumnock, 10 from Muiikirk,
12 from Galston, and 14 from Kilmarnock; and has
an important lamb fair on the last Tuesday of Au-
gust. Population of the village in 1801, 1,053. The
parish contains also the village of Lugar. Population
of the parish in 1801, 4,213. Houses, 727.
This parish is in the presbytery of Ayr, and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Lady Boswell. Sti-
pend, £101 Is. lid.; glebe £10. Schoolmaster's sal-
ary, £50. The parochial church was built in 1838,
and has 800 sittings. A preacher of the Church of
Scotland acts as a missionary at the Lugariron- works.
A United Original Seceder meeting-house is in
Auchinleck village. A female school, supported by
Lady Boswell, also is there; and three schools, sup-
ported by monthly deduction from the wages of the
workmen, are connected with the iron -works.
William M'Gavin, the author of " The Protestant,"
and William Murdoch, the associate of James Watt
in mechanical invention, were natives of Auchinleck
parish. The name Auchinleck is generally pro-
nounced by the country people Affleck.
AUCHINLECK, a 'hill, of about 1,500 feet in
height above sea-level, 4 miles west of Queens-
berry-Hill, parish of Closebum, Dumfries-shire.
AUCHINLILLY. See Carron (The.)
AUCHINMULLY or Lowek Banton, a village,
inhabited chiefly by colliers, miners, and sickle-
makers, in the east side of the parish of Kilsyth,
Stirlingshire.
AUCHINEAITH, a village in the parish of Blan-
tyre, Lanarkshire.
AUCHINSKICH. See Daley.
AUCHINTIBBER, a village in the parish of
Blantyre, Lanarkshire. Population in 1841, 73.
AUCHINTOUL, an estate in the parish of Mar-
noch, Banffshire. It comprises upwards of 3,400
acres, — of which about 2,350 are arable, about 200
are improveable moorland, about 400 are moss, and
more than 300 are under wood. The village of
Aberchirder stands on it. The mansion stands
near the centre of the parish. This was once the
property and residence of General Gordon, who rose
to high command in the army of Russia under Peter
the Great, and wrote a memoir of that monarch in
two volumes, and who acted a conspicuous part
among the Jacobite insurgents in 1715.
AUCHLEVEN, a village in the parish of Prem-
nay, Aberdeenshire. It stands on the river Gady,
and on the road from Insch to Keig. It has a corn-
mill and a woollen-mill, — the latter for both carding
and spinning.
AUCHLOSSEN (Loch), a lake partly in the
parish of Aboyne, but chiefly in that of Lumphanan,
Aberdeenshire. It is about a mile long, and nearly
half a mile broad; but it was partially drained about
100 years ago, and must previously have been twice
its present size. It abounds with various kinds of
fish, and is frequented by flocks of aquatic fowls.
Pikes have been caught in it measuring 0 feet in
length, and weighing 25 lbs.
AUCHMEDDEN. See Abeedour, Aberdeen-
shire.
AUCHMILL, a village with a post office, 3 miles
north-west of Aberdeen, and in the vicinity of the
great quarries of fine granite, whence vast supplies
of that material are sent to Aberdeen for building
and shipment.
AUCHMILLAN, a village in the parish of Mm in-h-
lino, 2 miles north-east of the town of Mauchline,
Ayrshire.
AUCIIMITHIE, a fishing-village in the parish
of St. Vigean's, upon the German ocean, about 31
miles north-east of Arbroath. It is situated on a
high rocky bank, which rises about 120 feet above
the sea, and is irregularly built; but contains sev-
eral good houses, upon feus granted by the Earl n(
Northesk. The harbour is only a level beaeli in an
opening between the high rocks which surround
this part of the coast; and, after every voyage, the
boats are obliged to be drawn up from the sea, to
prevent their being destroyed by the violence of the
waves. Near the village is the Gaylet pot, a re-
markable cavern into which the sea flows. A place
of worship was built in the village in 1829 by the
late Countess of Northesk, but was not opened till
1834, and then began to be used as a kind of Chapel
of Ease in connexion with the Established church.
Population of the village, 400.
AUCHMOEE. See Weem.
AUCHMURE. See Kinross-shire.
AUCHMUTY. See Markinch.
AUCHNACRAIG. See Achnaceaio.
AUCHNAGATT, a post-office station, subordi-
nate to Ellon, Aberdeenshire.
AUCHNASHEEN, a post-office station, on the
road from Inverness to Poolewe, 29} miles west of
Dingwall, and nearly in the centre of Ross-shire.
AUCHRANNIE. See Achrannie.
AUCHTERARDER, a parish, containing a post-
town of its own name, and containing also the vil-
lages of Smithyhaugh and Borland Park, in the
Ochil and Stratheam districts of Perthshire. The
name signifies ' the summit of the rising ground,'
and is exactly descriptive of the situation of the
town, on the ridge of an eminence in the middle of
Strathearn, commanding, on the north and east, an
extensive prospect of the adjacent country. The
parish has united with it that of Aber-Ruthven or
Abrathven, which signifies ' the Mouth of the Ruth-
ven,' a small river on wThich it lies, and which dis-
charges itself into the Earn. The annexation of the
two parishes seems to have taken place some consi-
derable time before the Revolution. The united
parish is of an irregular form: its greatest extent
from east to west is about 3 miles, and from north
to south nearly 8 miles. It is bounded on the west
by the parish of Blackford; on the north by Trinity-
Gask; on the east by Dunning; and on the south
by Glendevon. The greater part of it is an undu-
lating country, lying on the south of the river Earn;
and the rest includes some part of the Ochil hills,
particularly Craigrossie, which is one of the highest
of them, having an altitude of 2,359 feet above sea-
level. These hills are clothed to their summit with
grass, and afford good sheep-pasture. The general
declination of the parish is northward from the
Ochils to the Earn. Almost the whole of the lower
part is arable; and the northern declivity of the
hills is arable a considerable way upwards. The
Earn produces salmon, and the large white and
yellow trout. It greatly beautifies the parish as well
as the adjacent country; but is sometimes prejudi-
cial to the neighbouring tenantry, by overflowing its
banks in harvest. The Euthven, which takes its
rise in the hills, about 3 miles beyond the south-
western boundary, is a beautiful little river, and
runs with an uniform and constant stream through
the whole length of this parish from south-west to
north-east. Its course till it approaches the town
of Auchterarder, lies along a narrow, steep-sided.
AUCHTERARDER.
94
AUCHTERARDER.
richly -w;oded vale; and it afterwards passes within
1,200 yards of the town, and finally joins the Earn
about 4 miles beyond. This stream drives a num-
ber of corn and lint mills. It abounds with a spe-
cies of trout peculiar to itself, of a small size, but
remarkable for flavour and delicacy. This stream
also is liable to sudden and extensive floods. In
1839, in particular, it did extensive damage in this
way. The parish, particularly in the neighbourhood
of the town, abounds with a hard and durable stone
which is very fit for building both houses and dry-
stone fences. The quarries in the neighbourhood of
the town also afford grey slate in abundance. No
coal has yet been found here. In the Statistical Re-
port of 1838, the acres under the plough are stated
at 7,176; the waste or pasture at 6,571 acres. There
is only a small quantity of ground occupied by woods
and rivers, and none at all by forests or marshes.
About 300 acres are under plantation. There are a
couple of hundred acres in common at the west end
of the town, called the moor of Auehterarder, to
which the inhabitants send their cows to pasture.
In its present state it is of no great value; but it is
capable of very great improvement. Attempts have
been repeatedly made to get it enclosed and divided ;
but hitherto it has been found impossible to settle
the respective claims of the various parties interested
in it. The average rent of land, in 1792, was 20s.;
in 1838, 30s. There are ten landowners; and the
principal mansion is Auehterarder House, a struc-
ture in the Elizabethan style of architecture. The
Scottish Central railway passes north-westward
through the parish, and has a station near the town.
About 300 or 400 yards from the lower end of the
glen of the Ruthven, the finest viaduct on the whole
line of the railway spans it. This is 498 feet long,
98 feet high, and consists of six large arches, each
sixty feet in span, with a smaller arch at each end.
The arches are supported on piers 75 feet high, 33J
feet by 12 feet at bottom, and 27J feet by 9 feet at
top. A pier contains 24,018 cubic feet, and weighs
about 2,000 tons; a large arch weighs 560 tons; and
the whole work weighs about 17,000 tons. As the
arches are of uniform size, and as most of the piers
stand on the same horizontal plain, the viaduct pre-
sents the appearance of unbroken unity; and it
seems, on the whole, to be a fabric in which the ele-
ments of strength, durability, and neatness are skil-
fully combined. The stones for it were all brought
from the quarries at Auehterarder and Lucas. The
arch stones vary in thickness from 15 to 24 inches,
with a uniform depth of three feet; the lengths are
unequal, but some of them are eight feet long, and
weigh five tons each. In consequence of the via-
duct being somewhat depressed below the top of the
glen, it is scarcely visible, even from a short dis-
tance ; and partly for the same reason, the view from
it is not extensive. Nearly two miles north-east of
the viaduct, the railway is carried across a deep dell,
formed by the burn of Parney, on two arches, one of
which is built directly above the other. The lower
arch contains the burn, and the diverted road from
Auehterarder to Dunning passes through the upper.
Almost beside these arches, there is a rock cut of
considerable size ; and immediately beyond it, there
is a large earth cut, called the Jeanfield cut. Popu-
lation of the parish in 1831, 3,182; in 1861, 4,657.
Houses, 581. Assessed property in 1865, £15,358.
The parish of Auehterarder is the seat of a pres-
bytery in the synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron,
the Earl of Kinnoul. Stipend, £199 14s. 2d.; glebe,
£17. Unappropriated teinds, £18 15s. lid. School-
master's salary is now £50, with about £40 fees.
The parochial church stands in the middle of the
town, and was built in 1784, and enlarged in 1811,
and has 930 sittings. The roofless walls of the old
church of Aber-Euthven are still standing ; and be-
side them is an elegant aisle, surmounted by a beau-
tiful urn, the burial-place of the Dukes of Montrose.
There are two United Presbyterian churches in the
town, the North and the South; the former with an
attendance of 320, and the latter with an attendance
of 455. There is a Free church in the town, with
an ornamental tower ; and the yearly sum raised in
connexion with it in 1865 was £501 lis. lid. There
is a Free church also at Aber-Ruthven, erected
chiefly through the liberality of Major Graeme, the
proprietor of the district, and opened toward the end
of 1851. The yearly sum raised in connexion with
it in 1865 was £199 6s. 9d. There is likewise a
chapel of the Evangelical Union. A number of
benefactions for various local benevolent objects
were made about 40 years ago by John Sheddan,
Esq. of Lochie ; and one of them was the erection of
a schoolhouse, and the endowing of it with adjacent
land worth £1,000. The parish of Auehterarder will
ever be famous as the scene of the first and grandest
of the ecclesiastical struggles which arose out of
the Veto Act, and which terminated in the disrup-
tion of the Established Church. The exercise of
patronage was at one time very unpopular in Scot-
land. It had been an early principle of the Church
that clergymen should not be intruded on parishes
contraiy to the consent of the parishionei'B. When
a patron presents, it is for the presbytery to say
whether the presentee is qualified, and to refuse
collation if he is not. In 1834, the Church pro-
nounced the presentee's acceptability to the par-
ishioners a necessary qualification, and passed
the Veto Act, instructing all presbyteries to reject
presentees to whom a majority of male heads of
families in communion with the Church objected.
In the case of the Auehterarder presentation, when
this was acted on, the presentee brought an action
in the civil courts to declare it an undue interfer-
ence with his civil rights. The Church said — " This
is a matter purely ecclesiastical. The civil and the
church-courts have their respective jurisdictions.
This is ours entirely, and the civil court must not
interfere." The Court of Session said — " We care
not what you call it. We are here to protect men'g
property. Patronage has been constituted property
by Act of Parliament. Whether rightly so or not,
it is a commodity that may be bought and sold.
You have attempted to deprive a proprietor of the
use of it, under a pretence, and we must stop you."
The Church appealed to the House of Lords. The
judgment of the court below was confirmed; but the
General Assembly, till after the disruption, declined
to implement the decision of the civil tribunals,
holding itself irresponsible to any civil court for its
obedience to the laws of Christ.
The Town op Auchtehaedeh is distant by rail-
way 14 miles from Perth and 19 from Stirling. It
seems to have existed so early as the eleventh cen-
tury. An old castle which stood a little to the north
of it, and of which there are still some small and
very strong remains, is believed to have been built
by Malcolm Canmore as a hunting-seat; and the
spacious tract still held in commonage by the towns-
people is traditionally asserted to have been the gift
of that monarch to the town; so that Auehterarder,
as well as Dunfermline, may have been illumined
at times by Canmore's brilliant court. The town at
all events was early a burgh, perhaps a royal burgh,
sending a member to parliament ; and a great num-
ber of its houses hold burgage to this day ; and how
or when it lost its high privilege is not known. In
1328, King Robert Bruce made a charter grant of
the lands of Auehterarder to one of his great barons,
AUCIITEkARDER
95
AUCIITERGAVEN.
but confirmed the liberties of tbc burgh and the
burgesses, leaving them the same as they bad been in
the reign of Alexander III. The town, however, did
not thrive; and, in the 16th century, an act of parlia-
ment recorded that " Ochterairder was very puir,
and meikle infestit with gipsies and sorners," and
ordained that an annual lair for tbc encouragement of
trade be held there, in all time coming, on the 25th
day of November. This fair is still held in terms of
the statute; only, in accordance with the change of
style, it is now held on the 6th of December. It is
reckoned the greatest business day in the year, and
has, no doubt, contributed to the improvement of the
place. " Auchterarder," says the New Statistical
Account, "was one of the Scottish towns ironically
compared hy George Buchanan with the fine English
cities. Some English noblemen, boasting to King
James of the properties of the English towns, the
sarcastic Scot replied, that he knew a town in Scot-
land which had fifty draw-bridges, and which is
afterwards described as a ' country village between
Stirling and Perth, called Auchterardoch, where
there is a large strand which runs through the mid-
dle of the town, and almost at every door there is a
long stock or stone laid over the strand, whereupon
they pass to their opposite neighbours, and when a
flood comes they lift their wooden bridges in case
they should be taken away, and these they call
draw-bridges.' So goes the story." On the 28th of
January, 1716, when the royalist troops under the
Duke of Argyle were advancing npon Perth, the
Earl of Mar burned the whole of Auchterarder ex-
cept one house ; and on the 30th, when Argyle ar-
rived, he could find no accommodation, but spent
the night upon the snow, " without any other cover-
ing than the fine canopy of heaven." " Auchter-
arder," says Newte — who visited this place in 1782
— " seems to have lain under the curse of God ever
since it was burnt by the army in the year 1715.
The dark heath of the moors of Ochil and Tulli-
bardine, — a Gothic castle belonging to the Duke of
Athol, — the naked summits of the Grampians seen at
a distance, — and the frequent visitations of the pres-
bytery, who are eternally recommending fast-days,
and destroying the peace of society by prying into
little slips of life, together with the desolation of the
place, render Auchterarder a melancholy scene,
wherever you turn your eyes, except towards Perth
and the lower Stratheam, of which it has a partial
prospect." — When this superficial tourist penned
his coarse and unjust remarks on presbyterial visi-
tations, he probably knew no more of the matter
than he seems to have done of what he calls the
Antimonian heresies of the place.
The town, in its present state, consists principally
of one street upwards of a mile long. Its most strik-
ing feature is the fine tower of the Free church.
The town has offices of the Union Bank and the
Central Bank, a savings' bank, and four insurance
offices. A weekly market is held on Saturday; and
is the principal grain mart for a considerable sur-
rounding district. Fairs are held on the last Tues-
day of March, on the first Thursday of May, on the
Friday in August, in September, and in October, be-
fore Falkirk, and — as we have already noted — on the
6th day of December. The manufacture of Galas
has of late years found a seat here, and is on the in-
crease. Upwards of 15 manufacturers are engaged
in it, —one of whom employs 300 hands. There is
also a large woollen spinning-mill ; and there are
several dye-works. A good many looms are still
employed in weaving cotton fabrics for Glasgow
manufacturers. A number of mills of various kinds,
more or less connected with the town, or at least in-
timately affecting its prosperity, are dispersed along
the water of Ruthvcn — particularly a farina mill,
two flax mills, two saw mills, and four grain mills.
A short way from the town is a village called the
Boreland-Park, built for the accommodation of the
soldiers who were disbanded after tin war in 1763.
Most of the soldiers who were planted in it, left it
very soon afterwards — though the terms of their
settlement were very advantageous — cither from
dislike to the place, or more probably to their new
mode of life. Half a mile east of the vestiges of
Malcolm Canmore's castle, there are remains of an
old church, commonly called St. Mungo's, and sup-
posed to have been atone time the parish* church.
And south-east of the town, at the foot of the Ochils,
are some traces of ancient encampments, which
may possibly have been outposts of the great
Roman camp at Ardoch. Population of the town in
1831, 1,981; in 1861, 2,844. Houses, 380.
AUCHTEKDERRAN, a parish, containing the
village and post-office of Lochgelly, in the western
part of Filestore. It is bounded by Auchertool on
the south ; Abbotsball on the south-east ; Dy sart on
the east; Kinglassie and Portmoak on the north;
and Ballingray on the west. It has an irregular
outline, and is about 5 miles long from north to
south, and about 3 miles broad. It comprises part
of a valley, screened on the south, east, and west,
by rising grounds, which are of sufficient elevation
to exclude the view of the frith of Forth, although
they are cultivated to the top. The water of Orr
flows through the parish from west to east. It is a
slow running stream, rising in the north-west corner
of the county, flowing through Loch Fetty, and
falling into the Leven about 3 miles from its mouth.
On the southern border of the parish is a sheet ot
water measuring nearly 3 miles in circumference,
called Lochgelly, which discharges its waters, by
a small rivulet, into the Orr. There are good lime •
stone quarries; and coal is abundant, and is ex
tensively mined. About 500 acres in the parish are
under wood. Agriculture has undergone vast im-
provement, and is in excellent condition. There
are eleven heritors, with rentals of £50 and upwards.
The total land-rent in 1792, was £2,000, and in
1836, was about £7,000. Assessed property in 1865,
£15,728 2s. The Dunfermline branch of the Edin-
burgh and Northern railway goes southwestward
through the parish, and has a station in it at Loch-
gelly. Population in 1831, 1,590; in 1861, 3,457.
Houses, 667. The increase of population has been
occasioned by the opening of the Cardeuden colliery
and the Lochgelly iron-works.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy and
synod of Fife. Patron, Boswell of Balmuto. Sti-
pend, £237 lis. I0d.; glebe, £30. Unappropriated
teinds, £824 0s. lid. Schoolmaster's salary now is
£60, with £25 fees. The parochial church is situated
centrally in the east, and was built in 1789. There
is a Free church station at Lochgelly; the yearly
sum raised in connexion with which in 1853
was £34 8s. 9d. There is also at Lochgelly an
United Presbyterian church, with an attendance of
300. There are likewise a subscription school, a
savings' bank, and a total abstinence society.
AUCHTERGAVEN —vulgarly Ochteiigaex — a
parish, containing the post-office viUage of Bank-
foot, and most of the post-office village of Stanley,
and containing also the villages of Camiehill, Auch-
tergaven, and Waterloo, besides several hamlets, in
the Strathtay district of Perthshire. It lies mid-
way between Perth and Dunkeld, and is washed
for a short distance on the east by the Tay. It
measures 10 miles in length from east to west, and
about 3 in average breadth from north to south . Its
general surface measures nearly 20,000 acres; but a
AUCHTERGAVEN.
96
AUCHTERLESS.
great proportion of this consists of bills and moors,
or waste uncultivated ground. A small, old, conti-
guous parish, called Logiebride, is annexed to
Auchtergaven; but no account can be had of the
time when the annexation took place, either from
tradition, or from the records of presbytery, in which
the parish is always named Oughter or Aughter-
gaven. The people residing in the district that be-
longed to Logiebride parish, however, still continue
to bury in the churchyard at Logiebride; and a
part of the church is yet standing, and is used as a
burying-ground by the family of Tullybelton. It
is distant 2 miles from Auchtergaven church. The
muted parish is bounded on the north by the parish
of Little Dunkeld; on the east by Kjnclaven
parish ; on the south by the parishes of Redgorton
and Monedie; and on the west by Redgorton.
A lower range of the Grampians skirts it on the
north, and comprises the celebrated mountain of
Birnam. See Birkah. From these heights a num-
ber of streams descend towards the Ordie, a tribu-
tary of the Tay, which rising in a small lake in
the hill of Tullybelton, flows through Strathordie
in this parish, and unites with the Shochie at Lun-
carty. At Loak the Ordie receives the Garry from
Glen Garr. The bed of the Tay, near Stanley, is
crossed by a whin-dyke, which here forms the cele-
brated Linn of Campsie. At the foot of Birnam
there is a small secluded sheet of water which is
frequented by the heron ; and in this neighbourhood,
the great bittern has been shot. In the year 1784
Mr. Dempster of Dunnichen, and Mr Graham of
Fintray, along with several gentlemen in Perth,
feued some ground at Stanley from the Duke of
Athole, built a mill for spinning cotton, and soon
after began to erect a village in its neighbourhood.
At that time only a few families dwelt near Stanley;
and, except the land within the enclosures around
Stanley house, most part of the district was
almost in a state of nature; but now it is the seat
of a bustling and considerable population. See
Stanley. The old mansion of Stanley, on the Tay
to the north of Stanley village, was built by the
late Lord Nairne. The family of Nairne had another
elegant house near Loak, the ruins of which are yet
to be seen. It was purchased by the Duke of
Athole after the forfeiture of Lord Nairne, and there-
after demolished. The title of Naime was revived in
1824 in the person of William, Lord Nairne, who
was succeeded by his son William, 6th Lord Nairne,
who died, without issue, in 1837. The title is un-
derstood to have descended to the Baroness Keith.
The Nairne family bury in the south aisle of Auch-
tergaven church. The chief mansions in the parish,
additional to that of Stanley, are Airlywight House
and the House of Tullybelton; and the proprietors
of these mansions, together with the Duke of Athole,
the Baroness Keith, and Sir William Drammond
Stewart, Bart., are the landowners. Stone quarries
are wrought in a number of places, and a slate
quarry is wrought at Glenshee, near the western
boundary. The total value of all kinds of raw
produce was estimated in 1838, at £42,750. As-
sessed property in 1865, £13,406 10s. 6d. The manu-
factures comprise spinning and weaving in the
Stanley factories, a great deal of handloom weaving
in other places, extensive malting, a good deal of
distillery work, and the work of a number of flax
mills, corn -mills, and miscellaneous handicraft
work-shops. The great north road from Perth to
Inverness traverses the eastern district of the par-
ish; and the Scottish Midland Junction railway ap-
proaches sufficiently near, at the station of Lun-
carty, to be of service to the parishoners. The
village of Auchtergaven stands on the Perth and
Inverness road, 9 miles from Perth ; and is a strag-
gling place. A fair for cattle, sheep, and general
business, is held at it on the second Friday of No-
vember. Population of the parish in 1831, 3,417 ; in
1861, 2,562. Houses, 448.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dunkeld, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £179 6s. 4d., with a manse and glebe.
Schoolmaster's salary now is £50, with about £12
fees. The parochial church is in a central situation,
on a sloping hank, adjacent to the Perth and In-
verness road, and is an oblong building, with a tower,
and was erected about the year 1812, and contains
nearly 1,200 sittings. There is one Free church at
Auchtergaven, and another at Stanley ; and the
yearly sum raised in connexion with the former in
1865 was £86 13s. lid., and with the latter, £175
0s. lOd. There are two United Presbyterian
churches, designated in their synod roll North
Auchtergaven and South Auchtergaven, hut both
situated in the village of Bankfoot. There are five
private schools. Robert Nicoll, who has been called
the Second Burns of Scotland, was a native of the
parish of Auchtergaven; and he sings in one of his
pieces " the Folk o' Ochtergaen," and records in
another that " the memories o' his father's hame,
an' its kindly dwellers a'
Are twined wi1 the stanes o1 the silver burn
An' its fairy crooks and bays,
That onward sang 'neath the gowden broom
Upon bonnie Ordie braes."
AUCHTERHOUSE, a parish in the south-west
of Forfarshire, hounded on the north by Newtyle
and Glammis parishes ; on the east by Tealing and
Strathmartine ; on the south by the parish of Liff,
and the shire of Perth ; and on the west by Lundie
parish. Its greatest length is about 4J miles, and
greatest breadth 3 J. About three-fourths of the sur-
face are arable; and upwards of 1,400 acres are
under wood. The Sidlaw hills shelter the parish on
the north-west; and in the north-east are the hills
of Auchterhouse and Balkello. Two streams, both
rising in the parish of Lundie, flow through the
lower part of this parish, and uniting at the village
of Dronly, form the Dighty water, which flows into
the frith of Tay, about 4 miles east of Dundee.
There is abundance of building-stone and of paving-
stone ; and there are two corn-mills and two yarn
washing-mills. There are two mansions, that of
Auchterhouse, which belongs to the Earl of Airlie,
and that of Balbouchly, which belonged to the late
P. Miller, Esq. There are three small villages, —
Kirktown of Auchterhouse, Dronly, and Bonniton;
and the first of these stands 700 feet above sea-level,
and is 7 miles north-west of Dundee, which is the
post-town. Both the Dundee and Meigle turnpike
road, and the Dundee and Newtyle railway pass
through the parish, and afford abundant facilities of
communication. Population in 1831, 715; in 1861,
706. Houses, 142. Assessed property in 1865,
£7,190 14s.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dundee, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Earl of
Airlie. Stipend, £229 0s. 2d.; glebe, £14. School-
master's salary now is £40 ; school-fees about £40.
Church built in 1775. The old church was a large
and handsome Gothic structure.
AUCHTERLESS, a parish, containing a post-
office hamlet of its own name, in the north-west erf
Aberdeenshire. It is bounded on the north-west by
Banffshire, and on other sides by the parishes of
Turriff, Fyvie, Rayne, Culsalmond, and Forgue.
Its greatest length north-eastward is about 8 miles;
and its greatest breadth is nearly 4 miles. Its sur-
face is the upper basin of the Ythan, from within
AUCHTERMUCHTY.
97
AUCIITERTOOL.
about a mile of the source of that stream, onward to
the north-eastern boundary. The 6oil is gravelly,
and lies on a formation of clay-slate. About one-
third of tho whole surface lies uncultivated ; and
about 500 acres are under wood. There is only one
mansion ; and the chief landowners are Duff of Hat-
ton and Leslie of Badenscoth. Some remains of an
ancient camp, supposed to be Roman, exist on the
south-west border. The turnpike road from Aber-
deen to Banff passeB through the parish; and the
hamlet of Auehterless stands on that road, 6 miles
south by west of Turriff. A fair is held here for
cattle, sheep, and general business, on the Wednes-
day after the second Tuesday of April. The small
straggling village of Gordonstown stands upwards
of 2 miles farther south. Population of the parish
in 1831, 1,701; in 1861, 2,010. Houses, 355. As-
sessed property in 1860, £10,155.
This parish is in the presbytery of Turriff, and
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, Duff of Hatton. Stipend,
£191 6s. 5d.; glebe, £13 13s. Unappropriated tenuis,
£171 5s. Id. Schoolmaster's salary now is £50,
with about £21 fees. The parochial church was
built in 1780, and repaired in 1832, and contains 650
sittings. There is a Free church preaching station
at Auehterless ; and the yearly sum raised in con-
nexion with it in 1865 was £65 lis. lOd. There are
five private schools.
AUCHTERMUCHTY, a parish, containing the
town of Auchtermuchty and the village of Dunshelt,
in the north-west of Fifeshire. It measures 2£
miles from east to west, and about 2 from north to
south. It is bounded on the north by the Perth-
shire portion of Abernethy parish ; on the east by
Collessie; on the south by the river Eden, which
separates it from Strathmiglo ; and on the west by
Strathmiglo and Abernethy. From its northern
limits, where it rises to a considerable elevation on
the Ochils, the face of the country slopes gently to
the Eden. The soil is fertile and well-cultivated ;
and that of the south-eastern district is deep, rich
alluvium, part of a plain which formerly was much
flooded in winter, but which now is well drained
and constitutes as luxuriant and gardenesque a piece
of land as any in Scotland. There are two large
landowners, five considerable ones, and about sixty
small ones. Rental in 1865, £10,487 15s. 3d.; of
which £2,370 was in the town. The only consider-
able mansion is Myres castle, now the property of
Mrs. Tyndall Bruce of Falkland. The road from
Newburgh to Kirkcaldy, and that from Cupar-Fife
to Kinross intersect each other in the parish ; and a
station of the Fife and Kinross branch of the North
British railway is adjacent to the town. Population
in 1831, 3,225; in 1861, 3,285. Houses, 731.
This parish is in the presbytery of Cupar, and
synod of Fife. Patron, Mrs. Tyndall Bruce of Falk-
land. Stipend, £238; glebe, £30. Unappropriated
teinds, £77 5s. 8d. Schoolmaster's salary, £60,
with about £60 fees. The parochial church was
built in 1780, and enlarged in 1838, and contains
900 sittings. There is a Free church ; yearly sum
raised in 1865, £110 12s. There are three United
Presbytenan churches ; and one of these is in the
pointed style of architecture, and was opened in
January, 1846. There are a Baptist chapel in the
town, and an Independent one in Daneshalt. The
parochial school is a recent and rather ornamental
building; and there are four other schools.
The Town op Auchtermuchty stands at the inter-
section of the road from Newburgh to Kirkcaldy
with that from Cupar to Kinross about a mile north
of the Eden, 5 miles south of Newburgh, 9 west by
south of Cupar, 10 north-east of Kinross, and 15
north of Kirkcaldy. A small burn flows through it
from Lochmill in Abdic parish, and joins tho Eden
near Kilwhis. It is an irregularly built town, con-
sisting of three principal streets, and a number of
lanes. The East Lomond hill forms the finest ob-
ject in the surrounding landscape. Auchtermuchty
was erected into a royal burgh by a charter of
James V., dated May 25, 1517, and confirmed by
charter of James VI., dated October 28, 1595. It
had not, however, exercised its privilege of sending
a member to parliament for a considerable time be-
fore the Union. Since the date ot the 1 and 2 Wil-
liam IV., parties qualified in terms of it, resident
within the burgh, have voted in the election of tho
county-members. In 1833, seventy-six of its in-
habitants rented property within it amounting to
£10 per annum and upwards. The burgh became
bankrupt in 1816; and the whole of its property —
except the town-house, jail, steeple, bell, and cus-
toms, which, on appearance for the magistrates and
the Crown, were held to be extra communitatem
was sequestrated in June, 1822, and sold under au-
thority of the court of session in a process of rank-
ing and sale. The affairs of the burgh are managed
by a provost, two bailies, and nine councillors. A
Sheriff Circuit court, for the parishes of Auchter-
muchty, Falkland, Collessie, and Strathmiglo, is held
on the second Monday of January, April, July, and
October. A Justice of Peace court also is held. A
weekly market is held on Monday; and fairs are
held on the first Monday of February, the last Mon-
day of April, the second Monday of July, the first
Monday of October, and the first Monday of Decem-
ber. The town has a gas company, an agricultural
society, a savings' bank, and offices of the Union
Bank, and the Bank of Scotland. A public build-
ing for lectures, concerts, &c, was founded in 1865;
and a proposal was entertained in that year for in-
troducing water by gravitation. The industrial
works include a bleachfield, two saw-mills, abeam-
making business, an extensive distillery and malt-
ing establishment, and a small steam factory, — the
last erected in 1865. But the principal industry is
hand-loom weaving; and this is maintained chiefly
by agents for manufacturers in Newburgh, Kirk-
caldy, and Dunfermline, and employs about 600
looms in the town, and about 800 in the parish. The
town is becoming a favourite summer residence,
especially for families from the coast. Every one
has heard of the humorous Scottish poem, ' The
Wife of Auchtermuchty,' which has been ascribed,
but most erroneously, to James V., and which says,
" In Aucliteimuchty dwelt a man,
An husband, as I heard it tauld,
Quha weil conld tipple out a can,
And nowther luvit hunger nor cauld," <fcc.
Population of the town in 1841, 2,394; in 1861,
1,215. Houses, 263.
AUCHTERNEED, a small rural village, on a
hillside, opposite Castle Leod, at the head of Strath-
peffer, and at the skirts of Ben Wyvis, on the con-
fines of Ross-shire and Cromartyshire. It has a
straggling character, and is wringed with patches of
corn lands, which originally were allotments to
some veterans of the Highland corps who served in
the great American war.
AUCHTERTOOL, a parish, containing a post-
office village of its own name, in the south-westem
part of Fifeshire. It is bounded by the parishes of
Ballingray, Auchterderran, Abbotshall, Kinghom,
Aberdour, Dalgetty, and Beath. Its greatest length
east-north-eastward is about 3 miles ; and its aver-
age breadth is about 1J mile. A range of hills,
called Cullalo Hills, stands across its west end, and
has an altitude of about 750 feet above sea-level, and
stoops precipitously to the south. The rest of tl>e
G
AUCHTERTYRE.
98
AULDEARN.
surface is undulating, but has a general declination
to the east. The ground about the church and
manse is elevated and commanding, and takes in a
fine view of the sea to the east, as far as the eye can
reach, comprehending in it the isle of May, the
Bass, North-Berwick law, and a point of the Lothian
coast which stretches a considerable way into the
sea. There is one small lake in the parish called
Camilla Loch, in which are some perch. It takes
its name from the old house of Camilla adjacent to
it; which was so called after one of the countesses
of Moray, a Campbell. The ancient name of the
house was Hallyards, when it belonged to the family
of the Skenes. It is said to have been the rendez-
vous of the Fife lairds at the rebellion in 1715.
When James V. was on his road to the palace of
Falkland, after the defeat of bis army on the English
border, under the command of Oliver Sinclair, he
lodged all night in the house of Hallyards, where
he was courteously received by the Lady of Grange,
" ane ancient and goalie matron," as Knox calls her.
It seems then to have belonged to the Kirkcaldies
of Grange, a family of considerable note in the
history of Scotland. It is now a rain. Limestone,
whinstone, and sandstone are quarried; but the last
is of poor quality. The total yearly value of all the
raw produce of the parish was estimated in 1836, at
£9,262. Assessed property in 1865, £4,204. The
chief landowners are the Earl of Moray and the
family of Wemyss. The real rent in 1836 was
£2,165. The village of Auchtertool stands in the
south-eastern part of the parish, about 4J miles
west of Kirkcaldy. It contains a large brewery, a
parochial library, and a savings' bank. Population
of the village in 1851, 239. There is another vil-
lage, but a very small one, of the name of New-
biggiug- Population of the parish in 1831, 527; in
1861, 609. Houses, 121.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy,
and synod of Fife. Patron, the Earl of Moray.
Stipend, £157 18s. 10d.; glebe, £20. Schoolmaster's
salary now is £50, with about £30 fees. The
church stands a mile distant from the villages,
and was repaired in 1833, and contains 280 sit-
tings. There are a subscription school, an infant
school, and a parochial library. The Lochgelly
station of the Dunfermline branch of the North
British railway is in the vicinity,
AUCHTERTYEE, a small village in the parish
of Newtyle, Forfarshire. Near it are traces of an
old camp. See Newtyle.
AUCKINGILL, a village in the parish of Canis-
bay, Caithness shire.
AUGUSTUS (Foet), a fort and a village on a
small triangular plain, at the south-western ex-
tremity of Loch Ness, in the parish of Boleskine,
Inverness-shire ; 18 miles north of Garviemore-inn ;
32 J south-west of Inverness; 29 north-east of Fort-
William ; f>\ miles from the north-east end of Loch
Oich; and 144 from Edinburgh. The fort was
erected on a part of the forfeited estate of Lord
Lovat in 1729, and is a regular fortification, with
four bastions defended by a ditch, covert-way, and
glacis, and barracks capable of accommodating 300
soldiers. It was until late years garrisoned by a
company of soldiers, and supplied with provisions
from Inverness; but the guns have been removed
to Fort-George, and there are only a few soldiers
stationed here. The fortifications are in good re-
pair; but as the whole is commanded from the
neighbouring hills on every side, it is by no means
capable of long resistance. It is a neat-looking
place. The surrounding plantations, and the rivers
Tarffe and Oich which run by it, give it very much
the appearance of an English country-seat. " Look-
ing down from the glacis," says Miss Spence, " the
eye commands the whole length of the lake, 24
miles. On the south side, bordered by lofty and
precipitous rooks as far as the eye reaches, without
any interruption except the hanging gardens of
Glendoe. On the north, a softer and more varied
prospect forms a happy contrast to the rude gran-
deur of Suidh Chuiman, and the dark heights of
Stratherrick. Verdant bays retire from the view;
wooded heights gently rising, and peopled glens of
the most pastoral description, intervene, — each
divided by its blue narrow stream pouring in to
augment the abundance of the lake. This last, in
calm weather, holds a most beautiful and clear
mirror to its lofty and varied borders. In wintry
storms its agitations ' resemble Ocean into tempest
wrought.' The eddying winds which rush with in-
conceivable fury down the narrow openings in the
hills, make navigation dangerous from their violence
and uncertainty. The east wind — which sometimes
prevails in winter for more than a montn — raises
tremendous waves, yet it is not so dangerous as the
impetuous blasts which descend from the apertures
between the mountains." Fort Augustus was taken
by the rebels in 1745, who deserted it after de-
molishing what they could. The Duke of Cumber-
land established his head-quarters here after the
battle of Culloden.
The village of Fort Augustus stands immediately
behind the fort, and bears also the name of Killie-
cuming, or Cill Chuiman. It has a post-office under
Inverness, a hotel, an established church, a Free
church, a Roman Catholic chapel, an Established
school, and a Free church school. A missionary
clergyman of the Royal Bounty serves the Estab-
lished church ; and the sum raised in 1865 in con-
nexion with the Free church was £77 15s. 5d. Sheriff
small debt courts are held in January, May, and
September. Fairs are held on the Monday before the
second Wednesday of June, on the second Thursday
of August, and on the Monday before the 29th of
September. There are also occasional trysts for
black cattle in spring and autumn. The Cale-
donian canal here passes through a series of five
locks ; and the place is enlivened by the transit oi
the Glasgow and Inverness steam-boats. Popula-
tion of the village, 213.
AULDBAR, an estate and a railway station, in
the parish of Aberlemno, Forfarshire. The estate
belongs to the family of Chalmers, who reside on it
in Auldbar castle, a modernized old stronghold.
See Aberlemno. The railway station is on the part
of the Aberdeen railway which originally formed
the Arbroath and Forfar railway, and is situated on
the southern border of Aberlemno parish, at a point
whence a road was made to communicate between
the latter railway and Brechin. See Aeeeoath and
Foefar Railway.
AULDCAMBUS. See Cockbuenspath.
AULDCATHIE. See Dalmexy.
AULD- DAVIE, a rivulet in Aberdeenshire, a
head-tributary to the Ythan, into which it falls near
Glenmailen. Near the confluence of the two stream s,
in the parish of Auchterless, are some relics of Ro-
man antiquities, called the Rae or Ri dykes, sup-
posed by many to point out the Statio ad Itunam of
Tacitus. See ' Caledonia,' vol. i. p. 127 ; and Roy's
' Military Antiquities,' Plate LI. See Auchterless.
AULDEARN, a parish, containing a post-office
village of its own name, in the north-east corner of
Nairnshire. It is bounded on the north by the
Moray frith; on the east, by Morayshire; on the
south, by the parish of Ardelach; and on the west,
by the parish of Nairn. It extends 4 miles along
the front; and is in length about 6 J miles, and in
AULDEARN.
99
AULDEARN.
breadth about 5J. The ground rises gradually from
the coast to the inland part of the parish, where it
becomes hilly. The soil is generally light and fer-
tile in proportion to its vicinity to the sea. Near
the coast is a small lake, called Loch Loy, about U
mile in length, and a quarter of a mile broad. Much
of the surface is beautified with wood; and the
whole of it, as seen from commanding eminences,
backed by the frith and by the distant mountains of
Koss-shire, looks smilingly lovely and brilliantly
picturesque. The mansions of Boath and Lethen
are the only ones which attract notice ; but there
are five landowners, and the valued rental is £7,256.
The chief antiquities are truces of two Druidical
temples, and remains of the old castles of Moyness
and Inshoeh, and monuments of the battle of Auld-
earn. The Highland railway and the Elgin and
Nairn road go through the parish. The village of
Auldearn stands on that road, about 24 miles south-
east of Nairn, and 29 miles west of Elgin. It is a
place of considerable antiquity, and a burgh of bar-
ony. A fair for cattle and horses is held on the 20th
of June, if that day be a Wednesday or Thursday,
and if not on the first Wednesday after ; and another
fair is held on the first Tuesday in November after
Inverness fair. Population of the village in 1841 ;
351 ; in 1861, 358. Population of the parish in
1831, 1,653; in 1861. 1,328. Houses, 262. As-
sessed property in 1860, £8,663.
This parish is in the presbytery of Nairn and
synod of Moray. Patron, Brodie of Brodie. Stipend,
£241 5s. 4d.; glebe, £12 10s. Unappropriated
teinds, £360 5s. 3d. Schoolmaster's salary is £60,
with £10 fees. The parochial church stands close
to the village, and was built in 1757, and has 477
sittings. There is a Free church at Auldearn ; and
the yearly sum raised in connexion with it in 1865,
was £191 7s. 3|d. There is an United Presby-
terian church at Boghole, built about 1780, repaired
in 1817, and containing 353 sittings. There are
two friendly societies, a small religious library, and
a neat monumental infant school, — the last in
memory of John Innes, Esq., who was a native of
the parish, and became a citizen of London. In the
burying-ground of Auldearn are several interesting
monuments of Covenanters who fell in the battle of
Auldearn, and also some of the Hays of Lochloy
and Moyness. It is rather remarkable that a very
large portion, it is thought a great majority, of the
inhabitants of the town of Nairn (not of the fishing
class) have their burial places in Auldearn, and that
to these they cling with a romantic feeling, the
funerals of the poorest being well-attended all the
way. To other causes, the supposed greater sacred-
ness of the soil of Auldearn, on account of its
having been the ancient seat of the deans of Moray,
may perhaps be added as a reason for such a
resort of funerals from Nairn, as well as many
other places.
In May, 1645, the Marquis of Montrose, while
pursuing General Hurry in his retreat on Inverness,
took up a position near the village of Auldearn,
with 1,500 foot, and 250 horse, where he was at-
tacked by Hurry, now reinforced by the clan Fraser,
and the Earls of Seaforth and Sunderland. " The
village of Auldearn stands upon a height, behind
which, or on the east, is a valley, which is over-
looked by a ridge of little eminences running in a
northerly direction, and which almost conceals the
valley from view. In this hollow Montrose arranged
his forces in order of battle. Having formed them
into two divisions, he posted the right wing on the
north of the village, at a place where there was a
considerable number of dikes and ditches. This
body, which consisted of 400 men, chiefly Irish, was
placed under the command of Macdonald. On tak
ing their stations, Montrose gave them strict in-
junctions not to leave their position on any ac-
count, as they were effectually protected by the
walls around them, not only from the attacks of
cavalry but of foot, and could, without much danger
to themselves, keep up a galling and destructive
fire upon their assailants. In order to attract the
best troops of the enemy to this difficult spot
where they could not act, and to make them be-
lieve that Montrose commanded this wing, he gave
the royal standard to Macdonald, intending, when
they should get entangled among the bushes and
dikes with which the ground to the right was
covered, to attack them himself with his left wing.
And to enable him to do so the more effectually, he
placed the whole of his horse and the remainder of
the foot on the left wing to the south of the village.
The former he committed to the charge of Lord
Gordon, reserving the command of the latter to him-
self. After placing a few chosen foot with some
cannon in front of the village, under cover of some
dikes, Montrose firmly awaited the attack of the
enemy. — The arrangements of Hurry were these.
He divided his foot and his horse into two divisions
each. On the right wing of the main body of the
foot, which was commanded by Campbell of Lawers,
Hurry placed the regular cavalry which he had
brought from the south, and on the left the horse of
Moray and the North under the charge of Captain
Drummond. The other division of foot was placed
behind as a reserve and commanded by Hurry him-
self.— When Hurry observed the singular position
which Montrose had taken up, he was utterly at a
loss to guess his designs; and though it appeared
to him, skilful as he was in the art of war, a most
extraordinary and novel sight, yet, from the well-
known character of Montrose,, he was satisfied that
Montrose's arrangements were the result of a deep-
laid scheme. But what especially excited the sur-
prise of Hurry, was the appearance of the large yel-
low banner or royal standard in the midst of a
small body of foot stationed among hedges and dikes
and stones, almost isolated from the horse and the
main body of the foot. To attack this party, at the
head of which he naturally supposed Montrose was,
was his first object. This was precisely what Mon-
trose had wished by committing the royal standard
to the charge of Macdonald, and the snare proved
successful. With the design of overwhelming at
once the right wing, Hurry despatched towards it
the best of his horse and all his veteran troops, who
made a furious attack upon Macdonald's party, who
defended themselves bravely behind the dikes and
bushes. The contest continued for sometime on the
right with varied success, and Hurry, who had
plenty of men to spare, relieved those who were en-
gaged by fresh troops. Montrose, who kept a steady
eye upon the motions of the enemy, and watched a
favourable opportunity for making a grand attack
upon them with the left wing, was just preparing to
cany his design into execution, when a confidential
person suddenly rode up to him and whispered in
his ear that the right wing had been put to flight.
This intelligence was not, however, quite correct.
It seems that Macdonald — who, says Wishart, ' was
a brave enough man, but rather a better soldier than
a general, extremely violent, aud daring even to
rashness' — had been so provoked with the taunts
and insidts of the enemy, that in spite of the express
orders he had received from Montrose on no account
to leave his position, he had unwisely advanced be-
yond it to attack the enemy, and though he had
been several times repulsed he returned to the
charge. But he was at last bome down by the
AULDEARN.
100
AULTGEANDE.
great numerical superiority of the enemy's horse
and foot, consisting of veteran troops, and forced to
retire in great disorder into an adjoining enclosure.
Nothing, however, could exceed the admirable man-
ner in which he managed this retreat, and the
courage he displayed while leading off his men.
Defending his body with a large target, he resisted,
single-handed, the assaults of the enemy, and was
the last man to leave the field. So closely indeed
was he pressed hy Hurry's spearmen, that some of
them actually came so near him as to fix their spears
in his target, which he cut off hy threes or fours at
a time with his broadsword. It was during this re-
treat that Montrose received the intelligence of the
flight of the right wing ; but he preserved his usual
presence of mind, and to encourage his men who
might get alarmed at hearing such news, he thus
addressed Lord Gordon, loud enough to be heard by
his troops, ' What are we doing, my lord? Our
friend Macdonald has routed the enemy on the right
and is carrying all before him. Shall we look on,
and let him carry off the whole honour of the day? '
A crisis had arrived, and not a moment was to be
lost. Scarcely, therefore, were the words out of
Montrose's mouth, when he ordered his men to
charge the enemy. When his men were advancing
to the charge, Captain or Major Drummond, who
commanded Hurry's horse, made an awkward move-
ment by wheeling about his men, and his horse
coming in contact with the foot, broke their ranks
and occasioned considerable confusion. Lord Gor-
don seeing this, immediately rushed in upon Drmn-
mond's horse with his party, and put them to flight.
Montrose followed hard with the foot, and attacked
the main body of Hurry's army, which he routed
after a powerful resistance. The veterans in Hurry's
army, who had served in Ireland, fought manfully,
and chose rather to be cut down standing in their
ranks than retreat; but the new levies from Moray,
Ross, Sutherland, and Caithness, fled in great con-
sternation. They were pursued for several miles,
and might have been all killed or captured if Lord
Aboyne had not, by an unnecessary display of en-
signs and standards, which he had taken from the
enemy, attracted tbe notice of the pursuers, who
halted, for some time under the impression that a
fresh party of the enemy was coming up to attack
them. In this way, Hurry and some of his troops,
who were the last to leave the field of battle, as well
as the other fugitives, escaped from the impending
danger, and arrived at Inverness the following morn-
ing. As the loss of this battle was mainly owing to
Captain Drummond, he was tried by court-martial
at Inverness and condemned to be shot, a sentence
which was carried into immediate execution. He
was accused of having betrayed the army, and it is
said that he admitted that after the battle had com-
menced he had spoken with the enemy. The num-
ber of killed on both sides has been variously stated.
That on the side of the covenanters has been reck-
oned by one writer at 1,000, by another at 2,000,
and by a third at 3,000 men. Montrose, on the
other hand, is said by Gordon of Sallagh to have
lost about 200 men; while Spalding says, that he
had only ' some twenty-four gentlemen hurt, and
some few Irish killed;' and Wishart informs us that
Montrose only missed one private man on the left,
and that the right wing, commanded by Macdonald,
' lost only fourteen private men.' This trifling loss
on the part of Montrose will appear almost incredi-
ble, and makes us inclined to think that it must
have been greatly underrated ; for it is impossible
to conceive that the right wing could have main-
tained the arduous struggle it did without a large
racrifice of life. The clans who had joined Hurry
suffered considerably, particularly the Frazers, who,
besides unmarried men, are said to have left dead on
the field no less than eighty-seven married men.
Among the principal covenanting officers who were
slain, were Colonel Campbell of Lawers, and Sir
John and Mr. Gideon Murray, and Colonel James
Campbell, with several other officers of inferior
note. The laird of Lawers' brother, Archibald
Campbell, with several other officers, were taken
prisoners. Captain Macdonald and William Mao-
pherson of Invereschie, were the only persons of any
note killed on Montrose's side. Montrose took
several prisoners, whom, with the wounded, he
treated with great kindness. Such of the former
as expressed their sorrow for having joined the
ranks of the Covenanters he released — others who
were disposed to join him he received into his army,
but such as remained obstinate he imprisoned.
Besides taking sixteen standards from the enemy,
Montrose got possession of the whole of their bag-
gage, provisions, and ammunition, and a consider-
able quantity of money and valuable effects. The
battle of Auldearn was fought on the 4th of May,
according to some writers, and on the 9th ac-
cording to others." [Browne's ' History of the
Highlands,' vol. i. pp. 382—385.]
AULDFIELD. See Pollockshaws.
AULDGIRTH, a station on the Glasgow and
South-western railwajr, and the site of a post-office,
in the valley of the Nith, 6 J miles south-south-east of
Thornhill, and 8 miles north-north-west of Dumfries,
in Dumfries-shire. The adjacent tract of country, to
the extent of about two miles, is a contracted reach
of the valley, almost a gorge, replete with beautiful
close views. See Nith (The).
AULDGRANDE. See Aultgrande.
AULDHILL. See Kilbride- West.
AULDHOUSE. See Pollockshaws.
AULDTOWN. See Alton.
AULD WATER. See Old Water.
AULD WIFE'S LIFT. See Baldernock.
ATJLTGRANDE, or Altgkad, a small river of the
east side of Ross-shire. It issues'from Loch Glass,
about 10 miles north-north-west of Dingwall, and
runs about 7 miles east-south-eastward to the Cro-
marty frith at a point about a mile north-east of
Kiltearn. For a considerable way it runs through
a vast chasm, occasioned by a slip in the sandstone
strata, called the Craig-grande or Ugly-rock, of
which Dr. Robertson, in the first Statistical report
of Kiltearn, gives the following description: — " This
is a deep chasm or abyss, formed by two opposite
precipices that rise perpendicularly to a great
height, through which the Aultgrande runs for the
space of two miles. It begins at the distance of 4
miles from the sea, by a bold projection into the
channel of the river, which diminishes in breadth
by at least one-half. The river continues to run
with rapidity for about three quarters of a mile,
when it is confined by a sudden jutting-out of the
rock. Here the side-view from the summit is very
striking. The course of the stream being thus im-
peded, "it whirls and foams and beats with violence
against the opposite rock, till, collecting strength,
it shoots up perpendicularly with great fury, and,
forcing its way, darts with the swiftness of an ar-
row through the winding passage on the other side.
After passing this obstruction it becomes in many
places invisible, owing partly to the increasing
depth and narrowness of the chasm, and partly to
the view being intercepted by the numerous
branches of trees which grow out on each side of
the precipice. About a quarter of a mile farther
down, the country people have thrown a slight
bridge, composed of trunks of trees covered with
AULTGUISH.
101
AVEN.
turf, over the rock, where the chasm is ahout 16
feet broad. Here the observer, if he can look clown
on the gulph below without any uneasy sensations,
will be gratified with a view equally awful and as-
tonishing. The wildness of the steep and rugged
rocks, — the gloomy horror of the cliffs and caverns,
where the genial rays of the sun never yet pene-
trated,— the waterfalls, which are heard pouring
down in different places of the precipice with sounds
various in proportion to their distances, — the hoarse
and hollow murmuring of the river, which runs at
the depth of near 130 feet below the surface of the
earth, — the fine groves of pines which majestically
climb the sides of a beautiful eminence that rises
immediately from the brink of the chasm, — all these
objects cannot be contemplated without exciting
emotions of wonder and admiration in the mind of
every beholder."
AULTGUISH, a romantic rivulet in the parish ■
of Urquhart and Glenmoriston, Inverness-shire. It
is a continuous cataract down the precipitous and
alpine Mealfourvounie, and amid the forest of
Kuisky, on the north-west side of Loch Ness, nearly
opposite the famous Fall of Foyers; and, as seen
from the lake, it looks like a long white ribbon,
streaked and figured with the intervening trees.
AULTKOLLIE. See Loth.
AULTMOKE. See Altmoee.
AULTNAHAEROW. See Altnahaeeow.
AULTSIGH, a picturesque rivulet on the boun-
dary between Urquhart and Glenmoriston, in the
united parish of Urquhart and Glenmoriston, Inver-
ness-shire. It issues from a little circular lake far
aloft on the western shoulder of Mealfourvounie;
and rolls and leaps precipitously, among magnificent
scenery of cliffs and rocks and woods, to a profound
ravine overhung by the mountain, and thence to
Loch Ness at a point about 3 miles north-east of
Invermoriston. This burn was the scene of a san-
guinary and brutal conflict which occurred, in the
17th century, between a party of the Macdonnels of
Glengarry and a party of the Mackenzies of Ross-
shire, and which is commemorated in a well-known
pibroch called " the Raid of Kil-Christ." On the
summit of a hill south-west of the burn is a rocking-
stone of about twenty feet in circumference, which
two men can move.
AUSDALE, a hamlet and a rivulet in the southern
corner of the parish of Latheron, and immediately
north of the Hill of Ord, Caithness-shire. The
hamlet stands about 4 miles south-west of Berri-
dale; and the rivulet flows past it, and has a south-
easterly course of about 2 miles thence along the
north base of the Ord, and then leaps over a cliff of
100 feet in depth into the sea.
AUSKERRY, one of the Orkneys; constituting
Eart of the parish of Stronsay. It is a small, unin-
abited island, lying 2 J miles to the south of Stron-
say, and is appropriated to the pasturage of cattle
and sheep. Here are the remains of a chapel; and
also the ruins of a house which retains the appella-
tion of the Monker, or Monk's house. A great
quantity of kelp used to be manufactured here.
AVEN, or Avon, a frequent appellation of British
rivers, both as a complete name and as a prefix.
Mr. Thomas Richards, in his ' Antique Linguse
Britannicae Thesaurus,' under the article Afon, ob-
serves: " Avon is the proper name of several rivers
in England; as Avon, the river of Bristol; the Avon
in Northamptonshire; another in Warwickshire,
where there is a town called Stratford-upon-Avon,
&c, for which this reason is to be assigned, viz. that
the English, when they drove the Britains out of that
part of Great Britain, called from them England,
look the appellatives of the old inhabitants for pro-
per names; and so, by mistaking Avon, which, with
us, signifies only a river in general, it came to serve
with them for the proper name of several of their
rivers." Mr. Ireland says that the name Avon, or
Evon, is common to rivers whose course is easy and
gentle. There are three rivers in Scotland which
bear this name, besides several minor streams. The
term Avon is also prefixed to the names of several
Scottish streams: such as the Avon-Brouchag, and
the Avon-Coll, in Ross-shire; the Avon-Adail, and
the Avon-Araig, in Argyleshire. Chalmers says
that the term Anion, is merely a variation of Avon;
and, in confirmation of this, we may remark that
the Almond of Perthshire is sometimes called Almon,
and sometimes Avon. The names of veiy many
Irish streams, and the names also of a good many
Irish bogs and Irish alluvial tracts which have
been designated from streams, have the prefix Awin.
or Owen, which is a variation of Avon, and a few
have the prefix Avon itself.
AVEN, or Avon (The), a l-iver which issues from
a small lake of the same name, which lies embosomed
among the vast mountains of Cairngorm, at an alti-
tude of about 1,800 feet above sea-level. [See arti-
cle Aven (Loch.)] It flows northwards through a
narrow valley, and being joined by the Livet and
Tervie at Castle Drummin, falls into the Spey at
Ballindalloch, on the right bank, after a course of
nearly 40 miles through a wild countiy. It abounds
with trout. " The Aven," says Sir Thomas Dick
Lauder, " issues in a large stream from its lake, and
flows with so great pellucidity through its deep and
dark glen, that many accidents have occurred to
strangers by its appearing fordable in places which
proved to be of fatal depth. This quality is marked
by an old doggerel proverb,
4 The water of Aven runs so clear,
It would beguile a man of an hundred year.'
At Poll-du-ess, a little way above the first inhabited
place called Inchrory, the river is hounded by per-
pendicular rocks on each side. There the bed of
the stream is 44 feet broad, and the flood (in August,
1829,) was 23 feet above the usual level. Deep as
the ravine was, the river overflowed the top of it.
From correct measurements taken, the column of
water that passed here, with intense velocity, ap-
pears to have been about 1,200 square feet in its
transverse section." At Ballindalloch, the rise of
the Aven in the great flood of August, 1829, ex-
ceeded that in the flood of 1768 by 6 feet.
AVEN, or Avon (The), a river of Dumbartonshire,
Stirlingshire, and Linlithgowshire. It issues from
Loch Fannyside in the parish of Cumbernauld, and
flows about 8 miles eastward through the parishes
of Cumbernauld and Slamannan, and between the
latter parish and Muiravonside, and then runs about
10 miles, chiefly north-eastward, along the boundary
between Stirlingshire and Linlithgowshire, to the
frith of Forth about midway between Grangemouth
and Borrowstonness. Its chief tributaries are Pol-
ness Burn and Ballencrief Water, both on its right
bank. Much of its course winds along a shallow
glen, amid softly beautiful scenery. But its em-
bouch, like that of the Carron about 2 miles to the
west, is a deep muddy cut through a wide expanse
of sands and sleeches, which lie hare at low water.
A splendid aqueduct of the Union canal and a
grand viaduct of 23 arches of the Edinburgh and
Glasgow railway, span its glen between the parishes
of Linlithgow and Muiravonside.
AVEN (The), in Lanarkshire. See Avou.
AVEN (Loch), a small solitary sheet of water,
in the south-west extremity of Banffshire. It is
deeply embosomed amidst huge mountains. On it?
'■"■--
AVICH.
102
AVOCH.
western and northern edges, Cairngorm and Ben-
Buinac shoot up perpendicularly; while the vast
limbs of Ben-Macdhu and Ben-Main overhang its
southern extremity in frightful masses. Professor
Wilson has thus described this lonely mountain-
tarn: "You come upon the sight of it at once, a
short way down from the summit of Cairngorm, and
then it is some two thousand feet below you, itself
being as many above the level of the sea. But to
come upon it so as to feel best its transcendent
grandeur, you should approach it up Grlenaven —
and from as far down as Inch-Eouran, which is
about half-way between Loch Aven and Tomantoul.
Between Inchrory and Tomantoul the glen is wild,
but it is inhabited; above that house there is hut
one other; and for about a dozen miles — we have
heard it called far more — there is utter solitude.
But never was there a solitude at once so wild — so
solemn — so serene — so sweet! The glen is narrow;
but on one side there are openings into several
wider glens that show you mighty coves as you
pass on; on the other side the mountains are with-
out a break, and the only variation with them is
from smooth to shaggy, from dark to bright; but
their prevailing character is that of pastoral or of
forest peace. The mountains that show the coves
belong to the bases of Ben- Aven and Ben-y-buird.
The heads of those giants are not seen — hut it sub-
limes the long glen to know that it belongs to their
dominion, and that it is leading us on to an elevation
that erelong will be on a level with the roots of
their topmost cliffs. The Aven is so clear — on ac-
count of' the nature of its channel — that you see the
fishes hanging in eveiy pool; and 'tis not possible
to imagine how beautiful in such transparencies are
the reflections of its green ferny banks. For miles
they are -composed of knolls, seldom interspersed
with rocks, and there cease to be any trees. But
ever and anon we walk for a while on a level floor,
and the voice of the stream is mute. Hitherto
sheep have been noticed on the hill, hut not many,
and red and black cattle grazing on the lower pas-
tures ; but they disappear, and we find ourselves all
at once in a desert. So it is felt to be, coming so
suddenly with its black heather on that greenest
grass; but 'tis such a desert as the red-deer love.
We are now high up on the breast of the mountain,
which appears to he Cairngorm; but such heights
are deceptive, and it is not till we again see the bed
of the Aven that we are assured we are still in the
glen. Prodigious precipices, belonging to several
different mountains — for between mass and mass
there is blue sky — suddenly arise, forming them-
selves more and more regularly into circular order,
as we near ; and now we have sight of the whole
magnificence; yet vast as it is, we know not yet
how vast ; it grows as we gaze, till in a while we
feel that suhlimer it may not be ; and then so quiet
in all its horrid grandeur we feel too that it is beau-
tiful, and think of the Maker."
AVEN ISLAND. See Sanda.
AVICH (Loch), a beautiful fresh-water lake in
the parish of Kilchrenan and Dalavich, Argyleshire.
It lies between Loch Awe and Loch Melfort, — 2
miles from the former and 4 from the latter; and has
a triangular outline, and measures about 8 miles in
circumference. A stream, called the Avich, flows
from it to Loch Awe, The lake contains some
pretty little islands, and is frequented by numerous
water-fowl, Its ancient name was Loch Luina.
AVIEMOEE, a station on the Inverness and Perth
part of the Highland railway, in Duthil parish,
near the southern extremity of Morayshire, 32 j
miles south-south-east of Inverness and 25 north-
cast by iioi-th of Dalwhinnie. It stands on the left
bank of the Spey, at the base of the bold and famous
mountain of Craigellachie, which separates Strath-
spey from Badenoch, and in the near vicinity of
Cairngorm, so well known for its precious stones.
The scenery betwixt Grantown and Aviemore is
somewhat tame and uninteresting; but the view
becomes sublime when, after passing the latter,
we ascend an eminence which commands the plain of
Alvie and the course of the Spey, bounded by the
lofty mountains beyond Pitmain. Near Avielochan,
about 2i miles to the eastward of Aviemore, is Loch-
namhoon, a small sheet of water about 90 yards
long, by 50 across, in which there was, previous to
the great floods in 1829, a floating island of about
30 yards diameter. It was composed chiefly of
eriophori, junci, and other aquatic plants, the roots
of which had become matted together to a depth of
about 18 inches, and having about 18 inches of soil
attached to them. Some rare and beautiful plants,
particularly Andromeda ccerulea, Alchemilla alpina,
and Nuphar minima — the last of these the smallest
and scarcest of British water-lilies, have been found
in the vicinity of Aviemore.
AVOCH, a parish, containing a post-office village
of its own name, in the Ardmeanach district of Eoss-
shire. The name is written Avach and Auach in old
records, and is popularly pronounced Auch. The
parish extends about 2 J miles from east to west, and
4 from south to north; and is nearly of a rhomboidal
form. It is bounded by the parish of Eosemarkie
towards the east ; by the Moray frith and Munlochy
bay on the south-east, south, and south-west; by
the united parishes of Kilmuir- Wester and Suddie
on the west; by Urquhart or Ferrintosh on the
north - west ; and by the united parishes of Cullicud-
den and Kirkmichael on the north. It marches with
these last on the hill of Mullbuy, which attains here
an altitude of 800 feet above sea-level. See Akd-
meaxach and Mullbut. The parish consists chiefly
of two ridges of hills of moderate altitude, running
nearly parallel to each other in a direction from east
to west, with a gently sloping vale on the north
side of each, and the Mullbuy rising behind all these
towards the north. In Munlochy bay there is an
excellent quarry of hard reddish freestone, accessi-
ble to boats on the water-edge. Out of this quarry
almost the whole of the extensive works of Fort-
George were built. The Moray frith at Avoeh is
about 4 miles broad ; and a finer basin is scarcely to
be seen in the North. To an observer on this shore
it has all the appearance of a beautiful lake. Chan-
oniy point from the north, and that of Ardersier from
the south-east, appear like projected arms to clasp
each other and break-off its connection with the sea ;
while the point of Inverness, and the hills in that
neighbourhood, seem to bound it in like manner
in an opposite direction. The town of Inverness,
at the one end, Fortrose and Fort-George at the
other, add much to the landscape. From a boat in
the middle of the frith, opposite to Culloden-house
and the hay of Avoch, the view is still grander and
more embellished. In the southern vale there is a
fine rivulet, called the burn of Avoch — perhaps the
largest stream in Ardmeanach — which empties itself
into the sea near the church. A small lake, called
Scaddin's loch, near the eastern boundary of this
parish, was drained many years ago. Sir James J.
E. Mackenzie of Scatwell, Bart., is proprietor of
two- thirds of the parish. His seat of Eosehaugh-
house stands on a beautiful bank, about 1J mile
from the sea, on the north side of the southern vale.
The area of this parish is about 7,000 acres. The
total gross rental, in 1790, was somewhat more than
730 bolls of victual, and £900 sterling. The valued
rent is £2,531 6s. 4d. Scots. The road from Inver-
AVON
103
AVONDALE
ncss passes through the parish. The village of
Avoch stands on that road, and on the bay of Avoch,
1} mile south-west of Fortrose. It is in a large
degree a fishing village; and it has a very commo-
dious and substantial pier, which both accommodates
the fishermen, and facilitates the exportation of
grain and wood, and the importation of coals, lime,
bone-dust, and salt. The fishermen sweep a great
extent of coast, and are enterprizing and adven-
turous; and they bear a relation to the market of
Inverness somewhat similar to that which the fisher-
men of Ncwhaven and Fisherrow hear to the market
of Edinburgh. Population of the village in 1861,
1,597. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,956; in
1861, 1,788. Houses, 335. Assessed property in
1843, £3,658 2s. 10d.; in 1860, £5,256.
This parish is in the presbytery of Chanonry, and
synod of Eoss. Patron, Sir J. J. E. Mackenzie,
Bart. Stipend, £249 9s. Gd. ; glebe, £7 10s. Un-
appropriated teinds, £74 18s. 5d. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50, with about £10 fees. The parochial
church was built in 1760, enlarged in 1792, and re-
paired in 1833, and contains upwards of 600 sittings.
There is a Free church ; yearly amount raised in
1853, £82 3s.; in 1S65, £675 10s. 3d. There is also an
Independent chapel in connexion with the Congre-
gational Union, built in 1819. There are several
private schools, — one of them at Milltown.
AVON, or A vex (The), a river, partly of Ayrshire,
but chiefly of Lanarkshire. It rises on the south of
Distinet-thorn Hill, in the north-east corner of Kyle,
at an elevation of about 800 feet above sea-level,
and flows north-east between Carnscoch hill in
Ayrshire, and Gravestone hill in Avondale parish,
to Torfoots, a little below which it is joined by the
Glengivel or Glengeil water, flowing from the south.
Two miles farther on it is joined by Dramclog burn,
coming from Moss Malloch on the north. A mile
and a half below this point it receives the Little
Cadderfrom the north, and soon after Lockart water
from the south Passing about a mile to the south
of the town ot Strathaven, it receives its largest
tributary, the Kype, which flows from the south,
and precipitates itself near its mouth over a cascade
of about 50 feet in height. From this point it pur-
sues a north-east course through Avondale and
Stonehouse parishes, till it touches the western
boundary of Dalserf, where it turns nearly north,
and, after forming the dividing line betwixt Dalserf
and Stonehouse parishes, enters the parish of Ham-
ilton, flows through the Duke of Hamilton's grounds,
passes to the south of the town of Hamilton, and
falls into the Clyde about a mile to the south-east of
that town, after a course of about 28 miles includ-
ing windings. It is a beautiful stream, and gives
name and comeliness to the parish of Avondale and
the town of Strathaven. Its banks, along much of
the lower part of its course, are alternately hold
and precipitous, knolly and broken, softly green
and wildly wooded; and at length they become a
stupendous tumbling gorge, of similar character to
the glen of the Esk at Eoslin, but on a grander
scale, and superior to every other celebrated sylvan
Scottish defile in combinations of romance and
power. The crags tower up in many places to the
height of 250 or 300 feet; the summits and ledges,
and many " a jutting frieze," are festooned with
shrubs, or crowned with stately timber; and the
alternations of recess and abutment, of grandeur
and gracefulness, almost speak to the imagination
like a colossal copy of Gothic masonry. Near the
centre of the gorge, on the summit of a rock, nearly
200 feet above the bed of the river, like " sentinel
of fairy land," appear the rains of Cadzow Castle,
the original seat of the Ducal family of Hamilton,
destroyed by command of the Regent Moray, after the
battle of Langside; and on the opposite side of the
ravine stands the modem summer-house of Cbatel-
herault, so called from the French dukedom which
the Hamiltons possessed, and presenting a fantastic
foil to the natural scenery around, by its red walls,
its four square towers all in a line, its gaudy pin-
nacles, its globular ornaments, and its rich parterres.
See Hamilton. The ancient forest of Cadzow or
wooded park of the Dukes of Chatclherault, when
" princely Hamiltons' abode ennobled C'adzow's
Gothic towers," had this romantic glen for its centre,
and spread out from its mouth over the haugh along
the Clyde — whither arrived James Hamilton of
Bothwellhaugh, in frenzied flight, from his assassina-
tion of the Eegent Moray at Linlithgow; and, in
this connection, it is the scene of Sir Walter Scott's
ballad of Cadzow castle, which tells how a hunting
party, headed by the Duke, were inspiriting one
another's fierce party quarrel against the Eegent —
and how the frantic murderer rode headlong into
the midst of them, and
" From gory selle and reeling steed
Sprang the fierce horseman with a bound,
And, reeking from the recent deed,
He dashed his carbine on the ground.
Sternly he spoke — Tis sweet to hear
In good greenwood the bugle blown,
But sweeter to revenge's ear
To drink a tyrant's dying groan.
Then speed thee, noble Chatelhcrault,
Spread to the wind thy banner'd tree;
Each warrior bend his Clydesdale bow ;
Moray is fallen, and Scotland's free."
A VONBEIDGE, a station on the Monkland rail-
way, 10J miles north-east of Airdrie.
AVONDALE, a parish containing the post-town
of Strathaven, on the west border of Lanarkshire.
It is bounded by Ayrshire, and by the parishes of
Kilbride, Glassford, Stonehouse, and Lesmahagow.
Its greatest length from Avonhead on the south-
west, to Eighead on the north-east, is about 14
miles ; its greatest breadth from Eegal hill on the
south, to the boundary of Kilbride parish on the
north, is about 8 miles. The total superficies must
be nearly 40,000 acres; and the rental in 1860 was
about£22,946. Assessed property in 1843, £24,784
lis. Hamilton of Wishaw, in his account of the
sheriffdom of Lanark, compiled about the beginning
of last century, describes this " great paroch," as
"a plentiful country, especially hi grain, and no
want of corns." Its agricultural reputation is still
good; its daily husbandly is particularly celebrated;
and in the art of fattening calves for the butcher,
the fanners of Strathaven are unrivalled in Scotland.
The upper part of the parish is wholly moorland,
and presents a succession of hills, mosses, and moors,
on which there is capital grouse-shooting. The
fertility of the soil, and consequent richness of cul
tivation and beauty of landscape, increases as we
descend the strath of the Avon, which below Strath-
aven becomes, as Wordsworth has described it in
one of his sonnets, ' a fertile region green with
wood.' In veiy ancient times the great Caledonian
forest extended up Avondale, by Strathaven, and
passed over the high ground near Loudon hill into
Ayrshire. Trunks of huge oaks, the relics of this
forest, have been discovered near the head of the
Avon, and amongst the mosses that still exist here;
and at Chatelherault, in the neighbourhood of
Hamilton, there still exist some noble ashes and
oaks, the remnants probably of the ancient forest.
The principal river is the Avon; and this divides
the parish into two nearly equal parts. Limestone
is very abundant, and is worked in several places:
AVONDALE.
104
AWE.
and an inferior coal, good enough for calcining the
limestone, is also worked. The Duke of Hamilton
is the principal heritor ; but property here is greatly
subdivided. Hamilton of Wishaw states that " this
baronie did anciently belong to the Bairds; and
thereafter came to Sinclair; and from them to the
Earl of Douglas, with whom it continued several
ages ; and after his fatal forfaulture, in anno 1455,
it was given by King James the Third to Andrew
Stewart, whom he created Lord Avendale; and it
continued with him and his heirs until 1538, or
thereby, that he exchanged it with Sir James Hamil-
ton for the baronie of Ochiltree, in the parliament
1543 [1534?]. From which tyme, it continued with
the successors of Sir James Hamilton until it was
acquyred by James, first of that name, Marquess of
Hamilton ; and continueth with his successors since.
This paroch is large, and lyeth betwixt the parishes
of Killbryde to the west, Hamilton to the north and
north-east, and Glasfoord, Stonehouse, and some
parts of the shire of Ayre to the south and south-
east. There are many small vassals in this parish,
besyde three or four gentlemen, — Overtoun, Nether-
field, Eylandsyde, Lethem, and Kype; but all of
them hold of the familie of Hamilton." The road
from Hamilton to Muirkirk and that from Edinburgh
to Ayr pass up the parish, on opposite sides of the
Avon; and ample facilities of communication are
enjoyed to Glasgow and other places from Strath-
aven. Population of the parish in 1831, 5,761; in
1861, 6,125. Houses, 785.
This parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Duke of
Hamilton. Stipend, £305 2s. 6d.; glebe, £24. Un-
appropriated teinds, £955 18s. 8d. Schoolmaster's
salary now is £60, with about £25 fees. The par-
ochial church stands on the west side of Strath-
aven, and was built in 1772, and contains 803 sit-
tings. There is a chapel of ease at Strathaven, of
recent erection, and oalled East Strathaven church.
There is a Free church at Strathaven ; attendance,
300; yearly sum raised in 1865, £159 Is. 6^d.
There are three United Presbyterian churches in
Strathaven, called the First, the East, and the
West; and one of them was built in 1820 and con-
tains 630 sittings, another in 1777 and contains
1,087 sittings, and the third in 1835 and contains
976 sittings. There are thirteen schools, inclusive
of the parochial one.
The moorlands of Avondale were the scene of
many sufferings of the Covenanters and many
prowlings of the dragoons during the times of the
persecution. Auchengelloch there was famous for
its conventicles. See Auchengelloch. The mem-
orable battle of Drumclog, in which ' cruel Cla-
ver'se' was signally defeated by a small body of
Covenanters collected together under Hamilton,
Burley, Cleland, and Hackston, was fought on the
farm of that name in the upper part of the parish,
about 2 miles to the east of Loudon hill, on Sabbath,
June 1, 1679. The localities of the spot, as well as
the engagement itself, are very accurately described
in ' Old Mortality.' In this affair Claverhouse lost
his cornet and about a score of his troopers ; on the
side of 'the hillmen' only four were killed. The
victors commemorated their triumph in a rude ballad
entitled ' The Battle of Loudon hill,' which Scott
has preserved in his ' Border Minstrelsy,' [Cadell's
edn., vol. ii. pp. 206 — 225,] though not without a
quantity of industriously gleaned introductory mat-
ter, well-caloulated to throw ridicule on those worthy
men
" Who fled to woods, caverns, find jutting rocks.
In deadly scorn of superstitious rites, —
Or what their scruples construed to be such."
With better feeling, though perhaps with more ol
the imaginativeness of the poet than the veracity of
the historian, has Allan Cunningham indited his
Cameronian legends and ballads. In the 7th vol.
of Blackwood's Magazine, there is a bundle of very
spirited Cameronian ballads from Allan's pen,
from one of which, on ' The Discomfiture of the
Godless at Drumclog,' we shall here quote a couple
of stanzas; —
" This morning they came with their brass trumpets braying,
Their gold pennons flaunting, their war-horses neighing;
They came and they found us — the brand and the spear
Soon emptied their saddles and sobered their cheer;
They came and they sounded — their trumpet and drum
Now give a mute silence, their shouters are dumb ;
The chariot is smote, and the charioteer sleeping.
And Death his dark watch o'er their captains is keeping.
Oh! who wrought this wonder? — men ask me — this work
Is not of man's hand for the covenant kirk ;
Few — few — were the saints 'neath their banners arraying,
Weak, hungry, and faint, nor grown mighty in slaying;
And strong, fierce, and furious, and thirsting and fain
Of our blood — as the dust of the summer for rain —
Came our foes; but the firm ground beneath their feet turned
Into moss and quagmire — above their heads burned
Heaven's hot and swift fires — the sweet wind to-day
Had the power for to blast, and to smite, and to slay ! "
AVONDOW. See Forth (The).
AWE (Loch), a large and magnificent fresh-
water lake in the central part of the mainland of
Argyleshire. It extends from the east side of Ben-
Cruachan about 24 miles south-westward to a point
about 4 miles east of the head of Loch Craignish,
and has rarely a breadth of more than a mile ; but
it makes an offset north-westward from the southern
base of Ben-Cruachan, and looks there to be about
4 miles broad ; and from that offset it discharges its
surplus waters by the river Awe toward Loch Etive.
The chief beauty of it is comprised between its
north-eastern extremity and Port-Sonnachan, about
6 miles down its southern shore. Here the scenery
can hardly be equalled in Great Britain. But the
remaining portion of the lake is uninteresting to
the traveller, possessing little variety, and neither
beauty nor grandeur. At its north-eastern end,
however, the stranger may spend weeks in examin-
ing the beauty of its wooded and varied shores and
islands, or the grandeur of its lofty mountains and
deeply secluded glens. The water of the lake ap-
pears a basin enclosed among mountains of rude and
savage aspect, but lofty and grand, — " filling," says
Dr. Macculloch, "at once the eye and the picture,
and literally towering above the clouds." On the
north side, the elevated ridge of Cruachan rises
simple and majestic, throwing its dark shadows on
the water, which, spacious as we know it to be,
seems almost lost amid the magnitude of surround-
ing objects. On the opposite side, Ben-Laoidh,
Ben-a-Cleidh, and Meall-nan-Tighearnan form a
striking and magnificent termination to the land-
scape. Among all the mountains, however, which
surround Loch Awe, Ben-Cruachan soars pre-emi-
nent.
In approaching Loch Awe through Glen-Aray,
the traveller finds little to attract his attention after
leaving the pleasure grounds around Inverary cas-
tle, until he has attained the head of the glen, and
begins to descend towards Cladich. There, how-
ever, Loch Awe, with its beautiful expanse of water,
its islands, and the magnificent screen of mountains
which enclose it, bursts at once upon his view.
Ben-Cruachan is immediately opposite to him, its
summit enveloped among clouds ; and the dark
pass of the river Awe winding along its base. To
the east is seen the castle of Kilchurn, the openings
of Glenstrae and Glenorchy, and the lofty mountains
which enclose them lessening gradually in the did-
tance ; to tho west the long and sinuous portion of
the lake glitters like a silver stream amid the dark
heathy hills and moors which form its banks. See
articles Ben-Cruaciian, Kii.ciiurn, and Glenorciiv.
Tho north-eastern portion of Loch Awe acquires
much increase of beauty from a number of islands
which spot its surface and give relief to its expanse.
Looking down upon it from Cladich, a long heathy
isle called Innishail, or ' the Fair island,1 presents
itself to the view. In this island, the remains of a
small monastery with its chapel are still to bo seen;
and its ancient burying-ground is still sometimes
used. It was inhabited by nuns of the Cistercian
order, memorable, says tradition, for the sanctity of
their lives, and tho purity of their manners. At
the Reformation, this house was suppressed, and
the temporalities granted to Hay, abbot of Inchaf-
frey, who, abjuring his former tenets of religion,
embraced the cause of the reformers. Inchaffrey
was erected into a temporal lordship by King James
VI., in favour of the abbot. The old churchyard
on this island is an object of peculiar interest, from
its ancient tombstones, the greater part of which
are carved in a variety of ways. Some appear, from
the figures cut upon them, to have covered the
graves of religious persons ; others, having the long
two-hand sword, or the claymore, mark the graves
of warriors ; on others, again, mailed figures point
out the resting-place of knights and crusaders ; and
one stone in particular, from the arms, coronet, and
numerous figures it contains, would lead us to sup-
Eose that in this lone spot even the noble had been
uried. Among other families, the M' Arthurs ap-
pear to have made this their place of interment, as
numerous stones bear the name of individuals of
that ancient race. This sept formerly inhabited
the shores of Loch Awe, opposite to this island, as
the M'Gregors did the lands at the upper portion of
the lake. Both, however, have given way before the
overpowering influence and good fortune of the
Campbells.
Beyond Innishail, and farther up the lake, is
Innis-Fraoeh, or ' the Heather isle.' Here is an
ancient castle, the residence at one period, of the
chief of the MacNaughtans. It is a small but
strongly built fortalice. Its solitary walls are over-
shadowed by chance-planted trees and bushes, and
are the haunts of sea-birds and large water-fowl.
This island is the subject of a very singular high-
land tradition. It was the Hesperides of the High-
lands, and produced, according to Celtic poetry, the
most delicious apples, but which were guarded by an
enormous serpent. Dr. W. Beattie, in his ' Scot-
land Illustrated,' [vol. ii. pp. 99 — 101.] has given a
very absurd and tasteless amplification of the simple
Gaelic legend connected with this island. It is sin-
gular thus to find in a remote district of the High-
lands of Scotland, a traditionary fable which is gen-
erally considered as classic.
The shores of Loch Awe, and the recesses of the
surrounding mountains and glens, were formerly the
retreat of the Campbells in times of danger. ' It's a
far cry to Lochowl ' was the slogan, or war-cry of
the knights of Lochow and their followers ; with it
they derided their foes, and indicated the impossi-
bility of reaching them in their distant fastnesses.
At a still earlier period, this district formed a por-
tion of the extensive tract of country at one time
possessed by the numerous and powerful Clan-Gre-
gor; but so early as the 15th century, the Camp-
hells had obtained a footing here. Not a stone of
the MacGregor's dwelling in Glenstrae is now re-
maining to mark the spot where his mansion stood;
but in many a corrie, and many a lonely glen, the
highlander still points out where a fugitive son of
Alpine stood at bay, and fell beneath the extermi-
nating rage of his relentless pursuers. In a wild
corrie or hollow of Ben-Cruachan, is pointed out a
huge stone from behind which a MacGrcgor, no
longer able to continue his flight, shot a bloodhound
which had been set upon his track, and from which
he found it impossible otherwise to make his escape
This is alleged to have been the last instance in
which any of the outlawed Clan- Alpine were chased
as beasts of prey.
AWE (Loch), a Highland lake dotted with sev-
eral small islets, and adorned with natural wood, in
the south-eastern part of the parish of Assynt, 3
miles south of the head of Loch Assynt, and by the
side of the road from Dornoch to Loch-Inver,
Sutherlandshire.
AWE (The), the river which flows from Loch
Awe to Loch Etive in Argyleshire. It bursts from
Loch Awe through the wild and tremendous moun-
tain-pass of Brandir, and is very voluminous and
very rapid, and runs north-westward, and has a
total course of only about 4 miles. A considerable
portion of the western base of Cruachan seems to
have been torn asunder to form an opening for the
waters of the lake ; and the river flows through a
gulley or hollow of the most frightful description.
" This pass," says Mr. Allan, " is about 3 miles in
length ; its east side is bounded by the almost inac-
cessible steeps which form the base of the vast and
rugged mountain of Cruachan. The craigs rise in
some places almost perpendicularly from the water;
and, for their chief extent, show no space or level
at their feet, but a rough and narrow edge of stony
beach. Upon the whole of these cliffs grew a thick
and interwoven wood of all kinds of trees, both tim-
ber, dwarf, and coppice ; no track existed through
the wilderness, but a winding part which sometimes
crept along the precipitous height, and sometimes
descended in a straight pass along the margin of
the water. Near the extremity of the defile, a nar-
row level opened between the water and the craig ;
but a great part of this, as well as the preceding
steeps, was formerly enveloped in a thicket, which
showed little facility to the feet of any but the
martins and the wild cats. Along the west side
of the pass, lies a wall of sheer and ban-en craigs :
from behind they rise in rough, uneven, and
heathy declivities, out of a wide muir between
Loch Etive and Loch Awe; but in front they
terminate abruptly in the most frightful preci-
pices, which form the whole side of the pass, and
descend at one fall into the water which fills its
trough. At the north end of this harrier, and at
the termination of the pass, lies that part of the cliff
which is called Craiganuni : at its foot the arm of
the lake gradually contracts its water to a very nar-
row space, and at length terminates at two rocks
(called the rocks of Brandir), which form a straight
channel, something resembling the lock of a canal.
From this outlet there is a continual descent toward
Loch Etive, and from hence the river Awe pours
out its current in a furious stream, foaming over a
bed broken with holes, and cumbered with masses
of granite and whinstone. If ever there was a
bridge near Craiganuni in ancient times, it must
have been at the rocks of Brandir. From the days
of Wallace to those of General Wade, there were
never passages of this kind ; but in places of great
necessity, too narrow for a boat, and too wide for a
leap, even then they were but an unsafe footway,
formed of the trunks of trees, placed transversely
from rock to rock, unstripped of their bark, and de-
stitute of either piank or rail. For such a structure
there is no place in the neighbourhood of Craiga-
nuni, but at the rocks above-mentioned. In the
lake, and on the river, the water is far too wide ;
but, at the strait, the space is not greater than
might be crossed by a tall mountain pine, and the
rocks on either side are formed by nature like a pier.
That this point was always a place of passage, is
rendered probable by its facility, and the use of re-
cent times. It is not long since it was the common
gate of the country on either side the river and the
pass. The mode of crossing is yet in the memory
of people living, and was performed by a little cur-
rach moored on either side the water, and a stout
cable fixed across the stream from bank to bank, by
which the passengers drew themselves across, in
the manner still practised in places of the same na-
ture. It is no argument against the existence of a
bridge in former times, that the above method only
existed in ours, rather than a passage of that kind
which might seem the more improved expedient.
The contradiction is sufficiently accounted for, by
the decay of timber in the neighbourhood. Of old,
both oaks and firs of an immense size abounded
within a veiy inconsiderable distance ; but it is now
many years since the destruction of the forests of
Glen Etive and Glen Orchy has deprived the coun-
try of all the trees of a sufficient size to cross the
strait of Brandir ; and it is probable, that the currach
was not introduced till the want of timber had dis-
enabled the inhabitants of the country from main-
taining a bridge. It only further remains to be
noticed, that at some distance below the rock of
Brandir there was formerly a ford, which was used
for cattle in the memory of people yet living. From
the narrowness of the passage, the force of the stream,
and the broken bed of the river, it was, however, a
dangerous pass, and could only be attempted with
safety at leisure, and by experience."
Mr. Allan has clearly identified the pass of Bran-
dir with a scene of a memorable exploit of Scotland's
favourite hero, Sir William Wallace. It appears
that Edward of England had given a grant of Argyle
and Lorn to a creature of his own, named M'Fadyan,
who proceeded to take possession of the country at
the head of 15,000 Anglo-Irish and renegade Scots.
Before this force Duncan of Lorn retreated towards
Loch Awe, where he was joined by Sir Neil Camp-
bell; but the force of the invader compelled them to
throw themselves into a castle which crowned a
rock in this formidable pass, called the Crag-an-
aradh, or ' Eock of the Ladder.' Wallace, on being
apprized of their danger, hastened to their relief,
and managed to surprise M'Fadyan's army in a
situation where flight was impracticable. " The con-
flict continued for two hours, with unexampled fury
on both sides. Multitudes of the Irish were forced
over the rocks into the gulf below. Many threw
themselves into the water to escape the swords of
the Scots; whilst various bands of highlanders,
stationed among the rocks, sent down showers of
stones and arrows where the enemy appeared most
obstinate in the strife. Wallace, armed with a steel
mace, at the, head of his veterans, now made a charge
which decided the fate of the day. Those Scots
who had joined the Irish, threw away their arms,
and on their knees implored mercy. M'Fadyan,
with fifteen of his men, having made his way over
the rocks, and attempted to conceal himself in a
cave, ' wyndyr cragmor,' Duncan of Lorn requested
permission of Wallace to follow and punish him for
the atrocities he had committed; and it was not
long before he returned, bringing his head on a
spear, which Sir Neil Campbell caused to be fixed
on the top of the rock in which he had taken shelter.
After the defeat of M'Fadyan, Wallace held a meet-
ing of the chiefs of the West Highlands, in the
priory of Ardchattan; and having arranged some
important matters respecting the future defence of
the district, he returned to his duties in the Low
Country, having received an accession to his num-
bers, which covered any loss he had sustained in the
late engagement. The spoil which the Scots col-
lected after the battle is said to have been very con-
siderable ; any personal share in which our hero, as
usual, refused." [Carrick's Life of Wallace, edn.
1840, pp. 45, 46.]
At this pass, also, was fought, in 1308, a severe
skirmish between King Robert Brace and Mac-
dougal of Lorn. That chief had, two years before,
much embarrassed Bruce by a fierce struggle at
Dalree ; and he was married to an aunt of the mur-
dered Comyn, and had all along been a furious op-
ponent of Brace's claims. One of Brace's first ob-
jects, after fairly getting the upper hand in Scotland,
was to punish Macdougal and overthrow his power;
and with this view, he marched into Argyleshire,
determined to lay waste the country, and take pos-
session of Lorn. His adversaries, however, were not
unprepared to meet him, and to dispute his progress.
On advancing, he found John of Lorn and his fol-
lowers posted in the formidable pass of the Awe,
which it seemed impossible to force, and almost
hopeless to turn. But the military eye of the King
soon discovered that the natural difficulties which
this position presented might be overcome by a com-
bined attack ; and accordingly having sent a party
to ascend the mountain, gain the heights, and
threaten the enemy's rear, he immediately attacked
them in front, with the utmost fury. For a time
the Macdougals sustained the onset bravely; but at
length perceiving themselves in danger of being
assailed in the rear, as well as in the front, and thus
completely isolated in the defile, they betook them-
selves to flight ; and the difficulties of the pass which
had been of advantage to them in the first instance,
now that they were broken and thrown into disorder,
proved the cause of their ruin. Unable to escape
from the mountain gorge, they were slaughtered
without mercy; and by this reverse, their power
was completely broken. Brace then laid waste the
surrounding country, besieged and took the castle
of Dunstaffhage, and received the submission of
Alister of Lorn, the father of John, who now fled to
England. Alister was allowed to retain the district
of Lorn; but the rest of his possessions were for-
feited and given to Angus of Islay, who had all
along remained faithful to the King's interests. —
The bridge of Awe is also the scene of Sir Walter
Scott's beautiful tale of the Highland Widow and
her son, which must be in the recollection of all our
readers. His description of this wild spot is — like
all his other descriptions — not more graphic than
correct.
AYLORT (Loch), a projection of the sea on the
coast of Moydart, Inverness-shire. It forms an off-
set from the south-east of Loch Na-Nua, longer than
the upper part of that loch itself, and extends nearly
5 miles to the west and north-west toward the
southern confines of Arisaig.
AYLORT (Kinlooh). See Kinloch-Aylort.
AYR (The), a river which rises at Glenbuck in
the eastern extremity of the parish of Muirkiik, in
Ayrshire, and, after a course of about 33 miles
nearly due west, in which it divides the county at
its broadest part into two nearly equal portions, falls
into the sea at the town of Ajt, where its estuary
forms the harbour. It is for some miles of its course
only a small rivulet, flowing among holms and
haughs through an open moorland district; but,
being joined by the Greenock, and ' the haunted
Garpal,' it becomes a large body of water. It is
augmented by ' the winding Lugar ' at Barskimming,
AYR.
107
AYR.
mid by ' the brawling Coil ' nt Shaws. " Most of its
course for the Inst 20 miles is bounded by steep
rocky banks, generally covered with wood, which
in several places are highly picturesque. In a few
spots the banks open, and some enchanting holms
me found between them; but in many places the
river is seen for some miles together, dashing and
foaming in a deep and narrow chasm, rendered
dark and gloomy by the bulky foliage of the
trees which overhang the stream." [Aiton's
' View,' p. 59.] The Ayr is subject to heavy floods
during winter. After continued rains in the upland
districts through which it flows, in the language
of Burns,
" from Glenbuck clown to the Rntton-key,
Aitld Ayr is just one lengthened tumbling sea."
Born castle, Ballochmyle, Auchencraive, and Atich-
inleck, may be mentioned as worthy of notice for
their beautiful situation on the banks of this river.
The Ayr was anciently named A'idogara. The ety-
mology of the present name of the river is doubtful.
In its bed is procured a species of claystone which
is well-known to artisans by the name of ' Water-
of-Ayr stone,' and proves a fine whetstone. Salmon
are caught in the mouth of the river during the
summer season; but the fishing in this river is not
nearly so productive as that in the Doon.
AYR — anciently Are, sometimes Air — a parish
containing part of the town of its own name on the
coast of Ayrshire. It is bounded on the west by the
sea; on the north by the river Ayr, which divides
it from Newton-upon-Ayr and St. Quivox; on the
east, by Coylton; on the south-east, by Dalrymple;
and on the south-west, by the river Doon, which
divides it from Maybole. It comprises the ancient
parishes of Ayr and Alloway, which are nearly
equal in extent, and are separated from each other
by the Glengaw burn. See Allow ay. The united
parish measures about 2 miles along the coast, about
SJ along the river Ayr, between 5 and 6 along the
south-eastern boundary, and about 4 along the Doon.
The surface for a good way from the sea is low and
flat, but afterwards rises gradually to the east and
south-east. The soil near the coast is light and
sandy, and for nearly two miles farther is a light,
rich, fertile mould, and afterwards becomes some-
what churlish, and at length a cold, stiff, tilly clay.
All is well improved and capable of improvement;
a considerable proportion is under wood or highly
embellished ; and most is in a state of fine, judicious,
productive tillage; but the parts farthest inland
are cold and bleak and of very tame appearance.
There are two small lakes, one toward the south
side named Carcluy, and the other at the eastern
extremity called Loch Fergus. The latter has a
small island in the centre, but is not above a mile
in circumference. There is plenty of muirstone;
but freestone is neither abundant nor good; and
coal is not wrought, although all the neighbouring
parishes possess inexhaustible pits of the finest coal.
The chief mansions are Castle hill, on a rising
ground near the town; Rozells, some distance to
the west ; Newark Castle, at the base of Carrick
Hill ; and Cambusdoon, Doonholm, Bellisle, and
Mount Charles on the Doon. But all the environs
of the town and all the lower part of the district of
Alloway are so ornate and gardenesque as to look
almost like a series of pleasure grounds. A battle
seems to have been fought in early times in the
southern or south-western border of the parish, be-
tween Fergus I. King of Scots and Coilus King of
the Britons, in which both leaders lost their lives.
The names of places iu the neighbourhood seem
derived from this circumstance ; and a circular
mound, marked by two large upright stones, and
long the reputed burial-place of ' auld King Coil,1
having been opened in May, 1837, was found to con-
tain four urns. History has recorded two distin-
guished characters in literature, natives of this
parish: Johannes Scotus, suniamed Erigena, and
the Chevalier Ramsay, author of Cyrus's Travels,
and other works. To these may be added John
L. M'Adam, Esq., of road-making celebrity, who
was born at Ayr in 1756, Lord Alloway, Professor
Jackson of St. Andrews, and most of all the poet
Burns. Population in 1831, 7,606; in 1861, 9,308.
Houses, 1,128. Assessed property in 1843, £24,663
13s. lid.; in 1864, £33,381 7s. 9d.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. The charge is colle-
giate, and there are two churches, and the ministers
officiate indiscriminately in the two. Patron of the
first charge, the Crown; of the second charge, the
Town Council and Kirk Session. Stipend of the
first minister, £178 5s. with a manse and glebe;
of the second minister, £283 6s. 9d. with allow-
ance for a manse, and with a glebe worth £28 6s. 8d.
The old parochial church was built in 1 654, and is
surrounded by the town burying - ground. The
new parochial church was built in 1810, by the
town council of Ayr, at an expense of £5,703. Total
sittings in both churches, 1,982. All the dissenting
places of worship within the parish are in the town ;
those also in the adjacent parishes of Newton-upon-
Ayr and St. Quivox are in the suburbs ; and as the
latter as well as the former are popularly regarded
as in Ayr, they mav be mentioned hi "this place.
There are a Free church in Ayr-proper, a Free
church in the suburb of Newton, and a Free
church, of later origin, in the suburb of Wallace-
town ; and the yearly sum raised in 1865 in con-
nexion with tbe first was £865 19s. 6d., — with the
second, £S05 Is. 10d., — and with tbe third, £194 5s.
7fd. There is one United Presbyterian church in
Cathcart-street in Ayr-proper, and another in Dar-
lington-road in the suburb of Newton ; and the
former was built in 1816 and has 1,182 sittings, and
the latter was built in 1S60 and has above 800 sit-
tings. There is in Ayr-proper a Wesleyan Methodist
chapel, built in 1813 and containing 530 sittings;
and there are in Wallacetown an Original Seceder
meeting-house, built in 1799, and containing 605
sittings, — a Reformed Presbyterian meeting-bouse,
built in 1832, and containing 480 sittings, — an In-
dependent chapel, in connexion with the Congrega-
tional Union, built in 1805 and containing 550 sit-
tings,— a Roman Catholic chapel, built in 1836, and
containing 800 sittings, — and a chapel of ease to
St. Quivox; and in Newton a parish church. There
is also, in Ayr-proper, a Scottish Episcopalian church,
in which the Bishop of Glasgow and Galloway offic-
iates. There are likewise a Moravian chapel and a
Morrisonian chapel. There is a beautiful new ceme-
terv on the river Ayr, about £ a mile from the town.
AYR, a royal burgh, a market and sea-port town,
the capital of Ayrshire, and the seat of a circuit
court, stands on the west side of a fertile and heauti
ful plain, at the influx of the river Ayr into the
frith of Clvde, 9 miles from Maybole, 10J from
Irvine, 34 from Glasgow by road "and 40 by rail-
way, and 75 miles from Edinburgh by road and 87^
by railway. It looks to the eye to consist of two
nearly eqiial parts, separated from each other only
by the river; and it is popularly regarded as com-
prehending both these parts; and for all business
purposes it, of course, does comprehend them ; and
it comprehends them also as a parliamentary burgh.
But only the part on the left bank of the river con-
stitutes'the royal burgh, and forms the proper sub-
ject of our present notice; while the part on the
right bank consists of the mutually contiguous sub-
urbs of Newton, Wallacetown, and Content, and
will be noticed in the articles Newton-lton-Ayr
and Wallacetown.
The view of the town from the brow of Brown
Carrick hill, which overhangs the left bank of the
Doon, immediately south of Burns' monument and
Alloway kirk, is singularly brilliant and imposing.
The general prospect there, indeed, away over Kyle
and Cunningham and across the Frith of Clyde to
the stern Alps of Arran and the green hills of Bute
and the heathery mountains of Argyleshire, [See
Maveole, parish of,] is so mightily magnificent as
to make the town and its environs but one small
feature of the whole; but that one feature, never-
theless, is very striking. " The handsome new
buildings on the side of Wellington Square and
Barns' Street first appear to the eye, shaded by the
plantations that adorn the numerous villas that in-
tervene in the suburbs. The old part of Ayr is
almost hid in the background, unless in so far as
the irregular tops of the chimneys and gable ends
peer above, or are seen through some open space,
giving it a turreted sort of aspect and conveying an
impression of greater extent than in reality belongs
to it. The county buildings, the lofty tapering new
spire, and the imposing gothic-like erection of Wal-
lace Tower, have tended much to beautify and
adorn the town, and to add to the effect of its appear-
ance, as seen from a distance."
The parts of the town nearest the river and toward
the shore have a modern, showy, urban aspect; and
those in the centre and toward the south are anti-
quated, mean, and village-like. The principal street,
or High Street, winds through both regions, and par-
takes the character of both; and might, till quite
recently, have been described as presenting mot-
ley groups of elegant structures and mean build-
ings in most uncouth and amorphous combination,
with fronts, gables, and corners projecting to the
street as chance or caprice may have directed. But
in recent times, the town as a whole has undergone
vast improvements in its architecture and alignments
and economy; — such as would have seemed most
wonderful to persons who knew it fifty years ago;
and now it holds a high rank, for both beauty and
cleanliness, among the second-class towns of Scot-
land.
The bridges which connect Ayr with the suburbs
are the " The Twa Brigs " which figure so famously
in the poems of Burns. They stand within 150
yards of each other. The old bridge is said to have
been built in the reign of Alexander III., by two
maiden sisters of the name of Lowe, whose effigies
were carved upon a stone in the eastern parapet;
and it comprises four lofty and strongly framed
arches. The new bridge was built in 1778, chiefly
through the exertions of Provost Ballantyne, the
gentleman to whom Burns dedicated the poem of
" The Twa Brigs." It is a beautiful structure, with
five arches from a design by Robert Adam. The
old tolbooth and town-hall formerly interlined the
Sandgate at a short distance from the site of the
new bridge, and was surmounted by a spire 135 feet
high, containing "the Dungeon clock" alluded to
in Bums' poem; but it obstructed and almost
blocked up the thoroughfare, and was taken down
in 1826; and now a spacious and very elegant street
lies right open from the new bridge to Wellington
Square. The present town buildings stand at the
junction of Sandgate and High Street. They con-
tain an elegant suite of assembly rooms, and are sur-
mounted by a remarkably handsome spire of 226
feet in height. The county buildings, containing
court and record rooms and county hall, stand on
the north-west side of Wellington Square, and were
built from a design by Mr. Wallace, after the model
of an ancient temple in Borne, at an expense of
upwards of £30,000. A dwelling-house with a
statue of Sir William Wallace on its front, occupies
the site of the ancient court-house of Ayr, supposed
to have been that in which the Scottish lords, ac-
cording to the narrative of Blind Harry, were
treacherously hanged. Wallace Tower, in which
Sir William Wallace is traditionally said to have
been imprisoned, was a rude old building at the
head of the Mill Vennel, and near the middle of the
east side of High Street; and in 1830, this was
taken down, and an elegant Gothic structure of the
same name and about 115 feet high erected in its
place, with the clock and the bells of the dungeon
steeple at its top, and with a statue of Wallace,
done by the well known self-taught sculptor, Thorn,
in a niche on its front. The ancient cross of Ayr
was an elegant hexagonal structure, situated near
the site of the present town buildings, but was re
moved at the time when the new bridge was built.
The original church of Ayr, or at least a very
ancient one, stood between the town and the mouth
of the river, and was dedicated to St. John the Bap-
tist; and there the parliament of King Robert Bruce
met on the 26th of April, 1315, and settled the suc-
cession of the crown on the King's gallant brother,
Edward Brace, Earl of Carrick. But in 1652 Crom-
well erected a citadel of 12 acres in extent, and now
called the Fort, round the site of that church, and
converted the church into an armoury and guard-
room, and, by way of compensation, gave between
£600 and £700 toward the_ erection of the present
old parish church. The citadel was designed as a
military station to overawe and defend Ayrshire
and Galloway. The remains of this fortress, with
its grounds, were purchased, several years ago, for
about £3,000 ; the church was extended and altered
into a modern residence ; and the grounds were laid
off for feuing, and were, in 1865, being rapidly
covered with handsome villas. The present old
parish church is a substantial cruciform building,
in an open retired situation behind the High-street;
has Gothic windows, recently filled with magnificent
memorial designs in stained-glass; was all recently
re-seated; and, in interior effect, is not excelled by
any provincial place of worship in Scotland. The new
parish church is a handsome structure, both without
and within, but has no spire or tower. Some of the
dissenting places of worship have a very respectable
appearance. An extensive Dominican friary an-
ciently stood somewhere about the head of Mill Street;
and a Franciscan friary anciently occupied the site
of the present old parish church ; but not a trace of
either of them now exists, excepting the well be-
longing to the latter, which is still called the Friar's
well.
A great Roman road led from Galloway into Ayr-
shire by way of Dalmellington, and can still be tracer'
south-west of Castlehill gardens within 1J mile or
Ayr, and probably terminated at the mouth of the
river as a military station or a sea- port. Some urns
and culinary utensils and other small relics, of seem-
ingly Roman origin, have been found deep in the
ground at the town. A castle was built near the
mouth of the river by William the Lion, about five
years before the erection of Ayr into a burgh, and
is distinctly mentioned in the charter of erection as
" novo meo castello de Are." Large military forces
of Edward I. of England held possession of the princi-
pal fortresses of the Lowlands during that monarch's
usurpation of Scotland, and no doubt held possession
of the castle of Ayr; but those here probably did
not find it sufficiently commodious for them, and
they therefore erected on the south-cast side of the
town an encampment or temporary barrack which
became the scene of a tragical revenge upon them by
Sir William Wallace. See Barns op Ayr. But in
1298 lung Robert Bruce burned the castle of Ayr,
in order to prevent it from again becoming the
stronghold of an English army, who were marching
westward to attack him, and whom he had not
sufficient strength to encounter. The castle pro-
bably stood on the spot afterwards occupied by the
east corner or bastion of Cromwell's Fort; but no
traces of it now remain.
Ayr was early regarded by the Kings of Scotland
as a place of both political and commercial impor-
tance. The charter erecting it into a royal burgh
was granted about the year 1202 by William the
Lion; and conferred extensive privileges, which are
still enjoyed by the town. Several of the Kings of
Scotland, after the period of authentic record, built
ships at Ayr ; and Buchanan characterises this place
as " emporium non ignobile." And Defoe remarks
of it: " It is now like an old beauty, and shows the
ruins of a good face, but is still decaying every day;
and from having been the fifth best town in Scotland,
as the townsmen say, it is now the fifth worst;
which is owing to the decay of its trade. So true it
is that commerce is the life of cities, of nations, and
even kingdoms. What was the reason of the decay
of trade in this place is not easy to determine, the
people themselves being either unwilling or unable
to tell." [Tour through Great Britain, edn. 1745,
p. 114.] The merchants used to import a great
quantity of wine from France, and export com,
salmon, and other produce of the country ; and the
farmers and corn-merchants throughout most of
Kyle and Carrick, as well as the owner's and work-
ers of the rich mineral-fields there, must ever regard
it as a valuable sea-port. Its modem trade was for
a long time severely damaged by the rising trade of
Glasgow; but, even in spite of the competition of
Troon and Ardrossan, has been greatly revived since
the opening of the railways.
The sea-shore of Ayr is flat and shallow, and the
entrance of the river, which forms the harbour, was
formerly much obstructed by a bar of sand, espe-
cially in a north-west wind, but is now considerably
protected by a strong breakwater. The water, even
at spring-tides, seldom rises above 14 feet. The piers
extend about 1,100 feet each; and there are two
light-houses in taking the harbour. The position
of Ayr north pier light, as determined by Mr. Gal-
braith in 1827, is N lat. 55° 28' 53"; W long. 4° 36'
21". There are three lights, bearing south-east by
east i east 850 feet. Two of the lights are bright,
and one red. The red and one bright light are in
the same building, and show all night. In 1792 an
act was passed for deepening and maintaining this
harbour, and enlarging and improving the quays.
Another act was passed in 1817, with the same
objects. The amount of the harbour dues in 1864
was £4,880. The principal trade is the exportation
of coal and pig-iron ; and the quantity of the former
exported in 1864, was 137,499 tons,— of the latter,
16,097 tons. Other exports are farm produce,
leather, ale, &e. The chief imports are beef,
butter, barley, yarn, linen, limestone, whiting, and
porter from Ireland ; spars, deals, and heavy timber
from North America and the Baltic; slates and
bark from Wales; bones from South America ;
guano from Ichaboe and Liverpool; tar and pitch
from Archangel ; and whisky from Campbelton.
In 1812, the number of vessels belonging to the
port was 60, of aggregately between 5,000 and
6,000 tons; in 1836, it was 18, of aggregately 2,459
tons ; in 1843, it was 36, of aggregately 3,684 tons;
and in 1804, it was 57, of aggregately 8,498 tons.
The total number cleared in 1836, exclusive of
steam-boats, was 739, of aggregately 62,730 tons.
The coast trade during the year 1864 comprised a
tonnage of 104,525 inward, and 106,206 outward;
and the foreign trade during the same year com-
prised a tonnage of 3,233 inward, and 1,988 outward.
The limits of the port include also the harbour of
Girvan and intermediate creeks.
The manufactures and productive industry of the
town comprise some ship-building, extensive engi-
neering, saw-mills, a woollen-mill, extensive carpet-
weaving, extensive work in tanning and shoemak-
ing, much weaving and muslin-flowering for the
manufacturers of Glasgow, and a full proportion of
all the ordinary departments of handicraft. Ayr
port has long been the principal fishing-station
throughout a very great extent of coast ; and besides
commanding valuable salmon fisheries in the rivers
Ayr and Doon, it has an abundant supply of all
kinds of white fish from the sand banks in the frith.
Weekly markets are held on Tuesday and Friday ;
and fairs are held on the Thursday and Friday be-
fore the second Wednesday of January, on the first
Tuesday and last Friday of April, on the Thursday
and Friday before the second Monday of July, and
on the second Th. and third Tu. of October. The
chief inns are the King's Arms, the Star, the Ayr
Arms, the Queen's, the Black Bull, the Temper-
ance, the Buck's Head, and the Wheat Sheaf. The
town has a trades'-house, a merchant company, a
corn exchange, an excise office, an inland revenue
office, a gas company, a water company, twenty in-
surance offices, a savings' bank, and offices of the
Clydesdale, the Union, the Bank of Scotland, the
National, the Royal, the City of Glasgow, and the
Commercial Banks. The Ayr Observer newspaper
is published every Tuesday, the Ayr Advertiser every
Thursday, and the Ayrshire Express every Satur-
day. Communication is maintained by steamboats
with Glasgow, Arran, Campbelton, and Stranraer;
and by railway with Dalmellington, Girvan, Ar-
drossan, Kilmarnock, Glasgow, and all intermediate
and connected places. . .
The academy of Ayr is one of the best provincial
seminariesin Scotland. Itwasfounded andchartered
in 1798, and then superseded the parochial schools
of the burgh; and it rose out of a bequest of £1,000
by Mr. Ferguson of Doonholm, aided by large sub-
scriptions from the town and many wealthy gentle-
men. The building stands in an open and very
healthy situation near the Fort, and is plain and
chaste, and contains good class-rooms, a large pub-
lic hall, and a library and museum. All the
branches of education necessary for a commercial
life are here taught by able masters ; besides the
Latin, Greek, and modern languages, experimental
philosophy, chemistry, astronomy, &c. Smith's
Institution is a school for poor children, which
superseded a subscription Lancasterian school, and
rose out of a bequest of about £2,000 in 1825 by
Captain John Smith of Ayr. The other public
schools are a school of industry, a Ladies' charity
school, an infant and juvenile school, and a ragged
school. The mechanics' institution was instituted
in 1825, and prospered so rapidly as soon to have
nearly 200 members and a large and excellent
library. The other chief institutions, literary, bene-
volent, and miscellaneous, are an extensive town
library, a public reading room, a dispensary, a fever
hospital, a female funded society, a sailors' society,
a fishers' and mariners' benevolent society, a Sab-
bath school union, a religious tract society, a Bible
society, bowling and curling clubs, a general agricul-
AYRSHIRE.
110
AYRSHIRE.
tural association for Ayrshire, and a horticultural
and agricultural society. Concerts and balls are
held in the Queen's Rooms, — formerly the theatre ;
races are held annually, in September; and the
Caledonian hunt is here every fifth year. The race-
course is situated about a mile south of the town,
and consists of an enclosure of about 90 acres.
The magistrates of Ayr, prior to the municipal
act, were a provost, two bailies, a dean of guild, a
treasurer, and 12 councillors ; and had jurisdiction
over all the united parish of Ayr and Alloway.
The municipal constituency in 1865 was 448. The
corporation revenue in 1832-3 was £2,057 6s. lid.;
and in 1863-4 it was £2,645 16s. 9d. The ordinary
expenditure, in the latter year, was £2,764 6s.
8d. ; the amount of debt, £14,724 2s.; the value of
the burgh property, £32,676 18s. 3d. The only
local taxation is for cess and poor's money. There
are nine incorporated trades, who all possess funds
varying respectively from £50 to £1,500. A burgh
criminal court is held as often as required by the
town magistrates; a sheriff court every Tuesday
during session; a commissary court as often during
session as it may be required; a small debt court
every Thursday; and a justice of peace court every
Monday. Other authorities are the parochial board,
the municipal police board, and the county prison
boai-d. The parliamentary burgh of Ayr — which
includes Newtown, Wallacetown, and Content, —
unites with Irvine, Campbelltown, Inverary, and
Oban in sending a member to parliament. Parlia-
mentary constituency in 1865, 673. Population of
the royal burgh in 1841, 7,035; in 1861, 8,222.
Houses, 951. Population of the parliamentary
burgh in 1841,15,749; in 1861, 18,573. Houses,
2,104.
AYR AND DUMFRIES JUNCTION RAIL-
WAY. See Ayrshire.
AYR AND GLASGOW RAILWAY. See Glas-
gow Paisley, Kilmarnock, and- Ayr Railway'.
AYR (Barns of). See Barns of Ayr.
AYR (Bay of). See Ayrshire.
AYR (Heads of). See Heads of Aye.
AYR (Newton-upon). See Newton-upon-Ayr.
AYRSHIRE, a large and important county in
the south-west of Scotland, taking name from the
town of Ayr. It is bounded by Renfrewshire on
the north and north-east; by the counties of Lanark
and Dumfries on the east; by the stewartry of
Kirkcudbright on the south-east; by Wigtonshire
on the south ; and by the North channel and the
frith of Ctyde on the west. Its length, from Gallo-
way burn upon the north side of Loch Ryan, to
Kelly burn which divides it from Renfrewshire, is,
by the public road, 90, and in a direct line 60 miles,
the difference being occasioned by the curvature of
the coast; its breadth from east to west is in some
places 30 miles; and its average breadth is a little
above 19. Its superficies was reported by Mr. Aiton,
on measurements which he esteemed good, to be
1,600 square miles, and by Sir John Sinclair, on
calculations founded on Arrowsmith's map, to be
1,045 square miles; but was definitely ascertained,
by the recent survey of the Ordnance staff, to be
1,149 square miles.
Ayrshire is historically and popularly, though not
now politically, divided into the three districts of
Cunningham in the north, Kyle in the middle, and
Carrick in the south. The entire county has nearly
the outline of a half moon, with the concavity on
the coast and the convexity on the inland side.
The concavity, however, exists more in the northern
half of the coast than in the southern, and has there
a low sea-board, broadly fringing it like a valley,
and imposes the name of the bay of Ayr on the
large lateral expansion of the frith of Clyde by
which it is there swept. The surface of the county
is exceedingly diversified, and yet is for the most
part lowland, and so disposed as to be visible in vast
expanses from thousands of vantage-grounds. " A
considerable part of Carrick," says Mr. Aiton, " and
some parts of Kyle and Cunningham towards the
inland verges, are hilly ; and that part of Ayrshire
which borders with the counties of Dumfries and
Galloway justly merits the name of mountainous.
A chain or group of mountains commences at Saint
Abb's head, on the verges of the shires of Berwick
and East Lothian; runs westward the whole breadth
of the island, on the boundaries of the Lothians and
the county of Roxburgh, and between those of
Lanark and Ayr on the north, and Dumfries and
Galloway on the south ; and terminates at the rock
of Ailsa. Richard, who wrote in the 12th century,
and is the earliest Scots writer certainly known,
denominates this range of mountains the Uxellum
Montes. Some of the highest of the mountains in
this chain are situated in the neighbouring counties;
but a considerable range of the south and eastern
parts of Carrick is mountainous, and forms a part
of that group of mountains, abounding with lochs,
and very barren. A large range of Ayrshire, from
the foot of the water of Doon, to the north of Ar-
drossan harbour, is a plain open country, neither
level nor hilly, but rising from the shore in a
gradual easy acclivity, till it terminates in moun-
tains on the south-east, and moorish hills on the
eastern boundaries. No part of it can be termed
level ; for the surface abounds with numerous swells
or roundish hills which facilitate the escape of mois-
ture, promote ventilation, and diversify and ornament
the face of the country. The prospects from some
of these eminences are uncommonly rich and varie-
gated. On ascending any of the little heights, in
almost any part of the county, you have a delightful
view of the frith of Clyde, the beautiful hills of
Arran and Ailsa, rising out of the sea, a large tract
of Ayrshire, the Highland hills, and the coast of
Ireland." And nowhere is this view more extensive
or in richer combinations than from the heights of
Brown Carrick, in the south-west of the parish of
Maybole. See Maybole.
Cunningham is in general a level and agreeable
district of a triangular form and declining gradually
toward the sea; and is divided from Kyle by the
Irvine, intersected by the Garnock, and watered by
several streams of little note. Towards the confines
of Renfrewshire, it rises into an assemblage of hills
with intervening valleys. Along the sea-coast, and
in the southern part of the district, there are tracts
of tolerably flat and fertile soil. Its western angle,
however, is mountainous, and the coast is rocky.
This district comprehends 260 square miles, [Play-
fair,] and abounds in manufacturing towns and vil-
lages.— Kyle, the middle district, consisting of about
380 square miles, [Playfair,] lies between the river
Doon and the Irvine, and is traversed from east to
west by the Ayr, which divides it into King's
Kyle on the south, and Kyle Stewart on the north.
Towards the confines of Lanark and Dumfries-shire,
it is elevated, rugged, and covered with heath ; but
the midland and maritime tracts are agreeably di-
versified, well-cultivated, and planted with villages
and seats. " Kyle or Coil, having once been a
forest, may have taken its name from that circum-
stance, the Celtic coill signifying 'wood;' but the
natives, misled probably by the old chroniclers,
derive it from Coilus, a British king, who is reported
to have fallen in battle somewhere on the river Coil,
and to have been buried either at Coylton or at
Coilsfield. If such a personage ever existed, this
A Fullarton. & C ? London & Edinburgh..
AYRSHIRE.
Ill
AYRSHIRE.
does not appear to have been the scene either of his
actions or oil his misfortunes. The hill-country, to-
wards the east, is bleak, marshy, uncultivated, and
uninteresting; and on that side, except at one or
two places, the district was formerly impervious.
In advancing from these heights to the sea, the
symptoms of fertility and the beneficial effects of
cultivation, rapidly multiply; but there is no ' sweet
interchange of hill and valley,' no sprightliness of
transition, no bold and airy touches either to sur-
prise or delight. There is little variety, or even
distinctness of outline, except where the vermieula-
tions of the rivers are marked by deep fringes of
wood waving over the shelvy banks, or where the
multitudinous islands and hills beyond the sea ex-
alt their colossal heads above the waves, and lend an
exterior beauty to that heavy continuity of flatness,
which, from the higher grounds of Kyle, appears to
pervade nearly the whole of its surface. The slope,
both here and in Cunningham, is pitted with number-
less shallow depressions, which are surmounted by
slender prominences, rarely swelling beyond the
magnitude of hillocks or knolls. Over this dull ex-
panse the hand of art has spread some exquisite
embellishments, which in a great measure atone for
the native insipidity of the scene, but which might
De still farther heightened by covering many of
these spaces with additional woods, free from the
dismal intermixture of Scotch fir, — a tree which pre-
dominates infinitely too much all over the country,
deforming what is beautiful, and shedding a deeper
gloom on what is already more than sufficiently
cheerless." — Carrick, the southern and most roman-
tic district, including that portion of Ayrshire which
lies to the south of the river Doon, and consisting
of 399 square miles, [Playfair,] is in general moun-
tainous, with some delightful valleys interspersed,
and fertile declivities inclining towards the sea-
coast. The two valleys watered by the Stinchar
and the Girvan exhibit a wild and varied scenery,
which attracts the notice and excites the admiration
of every traveller. The principal elevations in
Carrick are on its south-west border, in the parish
of Colmonell ; and the highest ground in the whole
county is the summit of Cairntable, 1,650 feet above
sea-level, on the boundary of the parish of Muirkirk
and district of Kyle with the parish of Douglas and
county of Lanark. See the articles Cunnixghaji,
Kyle, and Carrick.
The climate of Ayrshire is similar to that of other
districts situated on the western coast of Britain.
For more than two-thirds of the year the wind blows
from the south-west, and the rains are often copious,
and sometimes of long duration. — The principal
rivers of Ayrshire are the Garnock, a small stream
which rises on the borders of Renfrewshire, 10 miles
above Kilwinning, flows southward, receives the
Lugton, and falls into the harbour of Irvine; the
Irvine, which has its source near Loudon hill, on the
confines of Lanarkshire, and thence proceeds west-
ward by Derval, Newmilns,Galston, Riecarton, &c,
until augmented by many rivulets it flows into the
sea at Irvine ; the Ayr, which holds a western course
nearly parallel to the Irvine; the Doon, which
issues from Loch Doon, on the east border of Carrick,
and flows north-north-west to the sea near the
mouth of the Ayr ; and the Girvan and the Stinchar,
which issue from small lakes near the border of
Kirkcudbrightshire, and flow south-west to the
North channel into which they fall, the former at
Gil-van, and the latter at Ballantrae. All these
rivers receive further notice in separate articles.
Their course is short, and, as they all rise on or near
the inland boundaries, indicates the general basin-
like outline of the county. — The principal loch is
Doon: which sec. There are several small lochs in
different quarters of the county.
Clay or argillaceous earth is the most common
soil in this county; and in different quarters it has
been found from 40 to 200 feet in depth. This
species of soil is naturally so tenacious that it can
only be ploughed when in a state of moisture. By
summer-fallowing, and the application of lime and
other manure, it is, however, convertible into fine
rich loam ; and there are thousands of acres in the
county of Ayr, which, by this mode of treatment,
have been changed from sterile clay to the richest
mould. Loam of alluvial formation is found in
holms, on the sides of rivers, and in other low situa-
tions in different parts of the county; but this bears
a small proportion to what has been converted into
loam by human industry. There is a greater pro-
portion of moss and moor ground than any other.
The origin of the extensive mosses in Ayrshire may
be traced to the overthrow of the forests which, we
are informed from the earliest and most authentic
history, at one time covered great tracts of land in
Scotland. Forest-trees are frequently found lying
many feet under ground, in the position in which
they had been cut down by the earlier inhabitants.
These trees, laid prostrate on the earth, extirpated
all former vegetation, and moss earth has been
formed from the aquatic plants introduced by the
stagnation of water occasioned by such circum-
stances. Lochs of water of moderate depth, have
also grown into flow-mosses, by plants striking root
in the bottom, when composed of earth or mud. The
most common of those plants are marsh-fog, gouk-
bear, drab-coloured fog, cotton-beads, and turfy
club -rush. The following is the extent of the
different kinds of soil in the comity, according to
Mr. Aiton:
Clay soil:
In tlie district of Carrick,
In Kyle,
In Cunningham,
10.000
175.600
. 135,000
Sand or light soil:
In Carrick, ....
In Kyle
In Cunningham,
Moss and moor ground:
In Cunningham,
90,000
41,000
16,000
54,000
147,000
814,600
Chalmers assigns to these different classes of soil the
following proportions: clay soil 261,960 acres;
sandy soil 120,110; moor lands 2S3,530. There are
no extensive natural woods in Ayrshire; but a con-
siderable quantity of copse-wood occurs on the banks
of the rivers, and a large extent of ground in the
lower parts of the county is now under plantations.
The mineralogy of Ayrshire is highly interesting,
and capable of affording a wide field of study both
to the geologist and agriculturist. The higher parts
of Carrick abound in unmixed granite of a greyish
colour. Braccia, whinstone, greenstone, and red
sand-stone, are also found in the same district. Im-
mense beds of coal have been discovered in different
parts of the county. The coal-district of Scotland,
wdiich intersects the island from the Atlantic to the
German ocean, runs through the centre of Ayrshire
from the shore to its inland verges. It commences
on the south, in the strath of Girvan in Carrick
about 2 miles from the sea, runs up by Dalmelling
ton and New Cumnock on the south side of Kyle, by
AYRSHIRE.
112
AYES HIRE.
Sanquhar in Nithsdale, and Douglas and Carnwath
in Lanarkshire, and being cut off by the heights of
Lammermoor, terminates near North Berwick: it
runs nearly in a line from the rock of Ailsa to that
of the Bass. Cannel coal, of excellent quality, is
found at Bedlar hill near Kilbirnie, and at Adam-
mill by Tarbolton. Blind coal — a species princi-
pally composed of carbon, and in which there is
only a very small portion of bituminous matter — is
obtained in great quantities, and many thousand tons
of it are yearly exported to Ireland. It is chiefly
used for drying grain or malt. Copper and lead
have both been wrought, — the latter to some extent
at Daleagles in New Cumnock. Gold is said to
have been discovered in Ayrshire, and dug by an
Englishman named Dodge, about the year 1700.
A few specimens have been found in the hills of
Carrick of agates, porphyries, and calcareous petri
factions. Millstones are quarried near Kilbride;
and a species of fire-stone near Auchinleck. Iron-
stone is extensively worked in each of the three
districts of the county. In the parish of Stair,
antimony and molybdena have been found; and, in
several parts of the county, that species of whet-
stone known by the name of Water-of-Ayr stone.
Chalybeate springs — some of them strongly impreg-
nated with sulphur — are found in almost every
parish ; but none of them present any thing pecu-
liarly interesting. There are two springs in the
parish of Maybole of uncommon magnitude.
The rotation of crops formerly differed widely in
different districts, but has been rendered more uni-
form by the progress of georgical improvement.
Wheat was seldom to be seen in this county beyond
the limits of a nobleman's farm previous to the year
1785; but it is now become common, and seldom
fails to yield a valuable return. Rye is not often
sown, except on the sandy ground near the shores,
where small quantities have been raised. Oats
have always been the principal grain crops of Ayr-
shire. Beans also are somewhat extensively sown.
Turnips were first introduced by the Earls of Eglin-
ton and Loudoun, about the middle of the last cen-
tury, and they have subsequently been reared on
almost every description of land ; but, as in all other
places, they grow to the best advantage on light
dry soil. Swedish turnip is extensively cultivated.
Potatoes are reared in great abundance, and to as
good account as in any other county in Scotland.
Clover is abundant. "Ryegrass, though a native
plant, remained unnoticed till about the year 1760,
and it did not come into general use till about 1775.
Only a small proportion of the surface of the county
is occupied as meadow-land. The natural pasture —
of which there is a considerable extent in the county
— is devoted to the feeding and rearing of sheep.
Much of the arable land also undergoes an. alterna-
tion of crop and pasture ; and the greater part of
the pasture is occupied with dairy stock, or other
cattle fed in the district. Agriculture, on the whole,
is in a highly improved and very intelligent condi-
tion, and so long ago as 1837, a writer in the New
Statistical Account said respecting it: — "During
the last few years, the farmers have in general de-
voted much of their attention to the study of agri-
culture as a practical science ; and erroneous pro-
cesses in the cultivation of the soil, which antiquated
prejudice or inveterate custom had long retained,
are gradually becoming obsolete, — while useful im-
provements and discoveries are eagerly substituted
in their place. Farmer's societies have done much
to introduce a more enlightened mode of husbandry
than formerly prevailed. This has been greatly
aided also by the example of many of the landed
proprietors, who themselves farm on a large scale."
And now, in 1856, Ayrshire is notable for high-
farming, — of which Myremill near Maybole is the
show-farm for beef, mutton, and pork, and Cunning-
park near Ayr for butter.
It would be a matter of some difficulty to ascer-
tain at what period attention was first given, in
this district, to the rearing of cattle. At all events
it must have been remote, as the following adage,
which was familiar to every grey-beard of the 17th
century, shows :
" Kyle for a man,
Canick for a cow,
Cunningham for butter and cheese,
And Galloway for woo!"
The Galloway cattle are well-made and hardy ; but
the native dairy cows are now preferred as milkers,
and are much more profitable to the farmer. About
the year 1750, several cows and a bull — either of the
Teeswater, or some other English breed — were sent
to the Earl of Marchmont's estates in Kyle, all of
the high brown and white colour now so common in
this county. It is probably from these or other
similar mixtures that the red and white colours of
the common stock were first introduced. In 1780,
or a year or two previous, the opulent farmers in the
parishes of Dunlop and Stewarton made up their
stocks of this breed. Their example was followed by
others, and the breed was gradually spread over
Cunningham, Kyle, and Carrick. The size of the
Ayrshire improved dairy cows varies from 20 to 40
stones English, according to the quality or abun-
dance of their food. The most valuable quality
which a dairy cow can possess is to yield an abun-
dance of milk. Ten Scots pints per day is not
thought uncommon for the Ayrshire breed ; some
give twelve or thirteen; and fourteen pints have
been taken from a good cow in one day. The
greater portion of the milk is manufactured into
cheese, of which there are two kinds, — the common
and the Dunlop cheese. See the article Dunlop.
Sheep, chiefly of the blackfaced kind, are, in some
parts, a considerable object of attention. The or-
chards and gardens and pleasure-grounds of Ayr-
shire have long challenged general admiration, on
account of both their tastefulness and their extent.
The manufactures of Ayrshire are important.
The woollen manufacture has long existed in this
district, especially at Kilmarnock, Ayr, Stewarton,
and Dairy. In 1838 there were 18 woollen-mills
within the county, employing 242 hands. — Linen
was more extensively manufactured in former years
in Ayrshire than it is now. The chief localities of
this manufacture are Kilbirnie and Beith. The
number of flax-mills, in 1838, was 3, employing 172
hands. — The cotton manufacture has long been in-
creasing, and is now prosecuted on a large scale.
Its chief localities are Catrine, Kilbirnie, and Patna.
The number of cotton-mills, in 1838, was 4; em-
ploying 703 hands. A considerable number of
women are employed in embroidery. A number
of great iron-works, additional to former ones, have
recently sprung up, and give extensive employment.
The manufacture of wooden snuff-boxes employs
about 120 hands. Extended information on these
points, and on other departments of productive in-
dustry, as well as in general trade and commerce,
will be found in our articles on the principal towns
The royal burghs in Ayrshire are Ayr and Irvine.
A parliamentary burgh, not royal, is Kilmarnock.
The other principal towns are Newton-upon-Ayr,
Ardrossan, Beith, Catrine, Girvan, Old Cumnock,
Saltcoats, Largs, Kilwinning, Mauchline, Maybole.
Stewarton, Troon, Galston, Kilmaurs, Newmilns,
Stevenston, Dairy, and Kilbirnie. The principal
villages are Ballantrae, Dailly, Patna, Crossbill,
AYRSHIRE.
AYRSHIRE.
Kirkmiehael, New Cumnock, Dalmellington, Muir-
kirk, Glenbnck, Darvel, Fenwick, and Gateside.
Some of the principal mansions are Culzean Castle,
the Marquis of Ailsa ; Dumfries House, the Marquis
of Bute ; Fullerton House, the Duke of Portland ;
Eglinton Castle, the Earl of Eglinton; Loudoun Cas-
tle, the Marquis of Hastings; Brisbane House, the
late Sir T. M. Brisbane, Bart.; Auchinleck House,
Boswell of Auchinleck; Killochan Castle, Sir J.
A. Cathcart, Bart.; Dalquharran, Right Hon. T. F.
Kennedy; Kilkerran, Sir James Ferguson, Bart.;
Blairquhan Castle, Sir Edward Hunter Blair, Bart.;
Bargany, Dnehesse de Coigny ; Berbeth, Hon. Col.
Cathcart; Enterkine, J. Bell, Esq.; Barskimming,
Sir T. M'D. Miller, Bart.; Sundrum, John Hamilton,
Esq.; Auchincruive, Alex. Oswald, Esq. ; Balloch-
myle, W. M. Alexander, Esq. ; Craufurdland, W. H.
Craufurd, Esq.; Logan House, W. A. Cunningham,
Esq.; and Fairley House, Sir P. A. C. Fairley, Bart.
The roads from Glasgow to Dumfries and Port-
patrick, and from Greenock and Paisley to all the
border counties, pass through Ayrshire ; and excel-
lent roads connect all its towns with one another,
and with every place of consequence beyond. The
number of miles of turnpikes in it, at November
1858, was 735, the number of turnpike trusts 17, the
yearly revenue from tolls. £16,830. Local railways,
or branches of the Glasgow and South-western, go
fi'om Ayr to Dalmellington and Girvan, from Troon
to Kilmarnock, from Irvine to Busby, from Kilwin-
ning to Ardrossan, from Hurlford to Newmilns, and
from Auchinleck to Muirkirk, and together with the
main lines of the Glasgow and South-western, form
a connected system of communication through great
part of the county. The grand trunk of the Glas-
gowand South-western enters the county near Berth,
and proceeds by way of Dairy, Kilmarnock, Mauch-
line, and Cumnock, toward Nithsdale ; and a main
line, originally forming with the northern part of
the main trunk the Glasgow and Ayr railway,
leaves the main trunk near Dairy, and proceeds
past Irvine and along the coast to Ayr. A railway
was authorized in 18C2 to deflect from the Glasgow
and Greenock branch of the Caledonian at Port-
Glasgow, and to enter the coast of Ayrshire down to
Wemyss bay; and may eventually be prolonged to
Largs. The Troon and Kilmarnock railway is the
oldest public work of its class in Scotland. A rail-
way was once projected, under the name of the Ayr-
shire and Galloway, to connect Ayr with the Port-
Patrick railway near Castle-Douglas.
Ayrshire has been divided, since 1846, into the
two sheriff-districts of Ayr and Kilmarnock. The
parishes in the Ayr district amount to 28, and are
Auchinleck, Ayr, Ballantrae, Barr, Colmonell,
Coylton, New Cumnock, Old Cumnock, Dailly, Dal-
mellington, Dalrymple, Dundonald, Girvan, Irvine,
Kilwinning, Kirkmichael, Kirkoswald, Maybole,
Monkton, Muirkirk, Newton-upon-Ayr, Ochiltree,
St. Quivox, Stair, Sorn, Straiton, Symington, and
Tarbolton ; and those in the Kilmarnock district
amount to 18, and are Ardrossan, Beith, Craigie,
Dairy, Dreghorn, Dunlop, Fenwick, Galston, Kil-
birnie, West Kilbride, Kilmarnock, Kilmaurs,
Largs, Loudoun, Mauchline, Riccarton, Stevenston,
and Stewarton. The sheriff-substitutes of the two
districts have their residences and courts and clerks
respectively at Ayr and Kilmarnock, and each acts
distinctively for his own district; yet both possess a
cumulative jurisdiction over the whole county. The
sheriff-court for the Ayr district is held every Tues-
day and Thursday during session ; the small debt court
every Thursday; the commissary court every Thurs-
day ; the justice of peace court every Monday ; the
quarter sessions on the first Tuesday of March and
August, fourth Tuesday of May, and third Tuesday of
November. The sheriff court for the Kilmarnock
district is held every Wednesday and Thursday dur-
ing session ; the small debt court every Thursday ;
the justice of peace court every alternate Mon-
day. Courts under the small debt act are held at
Irvine every two months ; at Beith and Cumnock
four times a- year; and at Girvan three times a- year.
The assessment in 1865, for bridge-money, was ^d.,
for rogue-money, Jd., for police, lj-d., for prisons, |d.,
per pound. The valued rental of the county in 1674,
was £1 91,605 Scots; the annual value of real proper-
ty, as assessed in 1843, was £520,828; and the val-
ued rental, as ascertained under the new valuation
act in 1865, was £876,438. The number of commit-
tals for crime in the year, within the county, was 71
in the average of 1836-1840, 118 in that of 1841-
1845, 178 in that of 1846-1850, 125 in that of 1851-
1S55, and 105 in that of 1S56-1860. The total num-
ber of persons confined in the jail at Ayr, within the
year ending 30th June, 1863, was 509, and the aver-
age duration of the confinement of each was 31 days.
The number confined in the jail at Kilmarnock in
that year was 252 ; and the average duration of their
confinements was 21 days. Thirty-eight parishes
are assessed, and eight unassessed for the poor. The
number of registered poor in the year 1852-3 was
4,929; in 1862-63, 6,330. The number of casu.nl
poor in the year 1852-3 was 17,691; in 1862-63,
7,216. The sum expended on the registered poor
in 1852-3 was £22,928, ill 1862-63, £34,582. The
sum expended on the casual poor in 1852-3 was
£2,365; in 1862-63, £2,544. Ayrshire returns one
member to parliament. Constituency in 1865, 4,642 ;
Population of the county in 1801,84,207; in 1811,
103,839; in 1821, 127,299; in 1831, 145,055; in
1841, 164,356; in 1851, 189,058; in 1861, 199,063
Inhabited houses in 1861, 25,742; uninhabited, 878;
building, 224.
Ayrshire, in former times, was comprehended in the
bishopric of Glasgow ; and all, except two parishes,
is now comprehended in the synod of Glasgow and
Ayr. The parishes of Ballantrae and Colmonell are
in the presbytery of Stranraer; the parish of Largs
is in the presbytery of Greenock; and the other 43
parishes constitute the presbyteries of Ayr and Ir-
vine. The number of parish churches is 48, — the
towns of Ayr and Kilmarnock having each two;
and the number of subordinate ones is 15. The
Free church Assembly distributes the county in
nearly the same way as the Established church, but
includes Ballantrae and Colmonell in the presbytery
of Ayr. In 1865 it had 49 churches and 2 preaching
stations within the county; and two of the churches
were in the presbytery of Greenock, 24 in the pres-
bytery of Irvine, and 23 in the presbytery of Ayr.
There are at present 30 churches in Ayrshire belong-
ing to the United Presbyterian Synod,- — three of
which are in its presbytery of Paisley and Greenock,
and all the rest in its presbytery of Kilmarnock. There
arein the county 7 Reformed Presbyterian churches,
5 United Original Secession churches, 4 Episcopalian
chapels of the Scottish Episcopal communion, 3 Con-
gregational chapels, 10 Morrisonian chapels, 2 Baptist
chapels, 4 Wesleyan Methodist chapels, 1 Unitarian
chapel, 9 Roman Catholic chapels, 2 small meeting-
places belonging to the Mormonites, and 6 or 7 small
meeting-places belonging to isolated congregations.
There were in 1851, in Ayrshire, 177 public day-
sehools, attended by 9,233 males and 6,974 females,
■ — 121 private day-schools, attended by 3,750 males
and 3,415 females, 7 evening schools for adults, at-
tended by 139 males and 101 females, — and 205 Sab-
bath schools, attended by 9,023 males and 10,531
females.
H
AYRSHIRE.
114
AYTON.
Throughout every part of Ayrshire are scattered
the relies of former ages. Cairns, encampments,
and dmidical circles are numerous: see articles
Dundonald, Galston, and Sons. Of ancient cas-
tles the most celebrated are Loch Doon, Tuen-
beery, Dundonald, and Soen : see these articles.
The principal ecclesiastical ruins are those of the
abbeys of Crossraguel and Kilwinning: which
also see. The most ancient families of Ayrshire
are the Auchinlecks, Boswells, Boyds, Cathcarts,
Crawfords, Cunninghams, Dalrymples, Dunlops,
Fullartons, Kennedys, Lindsays, Montgomeiys, and
Wallaces. Of the titles of nobility connected with
this county, the earldom of Carrick, now merged in
the Crown, is the oldest. The earldom of Glen-
cairn %vas created in 1488 ; that of Eglinton in 1503;
that of Cassillis in 1509; those of Loudon and Dum-
fries in 1633; and that of Dundonald in 1669.
Ayrshire was inhabited in Kornan times by the
Damnii and the Novantes After the abdication of
the Bomans, this district became a part of the Cum-
brian kingdom. During the Saxon heptarchy Kyle
became subject to the longs of Northumbria. The
Saxons maintained themselves in this district for
many centuries, and have left numerous traces of
their presence here. In 1221 the sheriffdom of Ayr
was erected. In the wars of Wallace and Bruce,
Ayrshire was the scene of numerous conflicts with
the English. During the religious persecutions
under the last of the Stuarts, the men of Ayrshire
distinguished themselves by their straggles for the
maintenance of the rights of conscience ; and were
punished for their contumacy by having ' the High-
land host' quartered upon them in 1678. "We
might from these circumstances," says Chalmers,
" suppose that the people of Ayrshire would concur
zealously in the Revolution of 1688. As one of the
western shires, Ayrshire sent its full proportion of
armed men to Edinburgh to protect the convention
of Estates. On the 6th of April, 1689, the forces
that had come from the western counties, having
received thanks from the convention for their sea-
sonable service, they immediately departed with
their arms to their respective homes. They were
offered some gratification; but they would receive
none, saying that they came to save and serve
their country, but not to enrich themselves at the
nation's expense. It was at the same time ordered,
1 that the inhabitants of the town of Ayr should be
kept together till further orders.' On the 14th of
May arms were ordered to be given to Lord Bar-
geny, an Ayrshire baronet. On the 25th of May, in
answer to a letter from the Earl of Eglinton, the
convention ordered, ' that the heritors and fencible
men in the shire of Ayr be instantly raised and
commanded in conformity to the appointment of
the Estates.' But of such proofs of the revolu-
tionary principles of Ayrshire enough ! The men
of Ayr not only approved of the Revolution, but
they drew their swords in support of its establish-
ment and principles. On that memorable occasion
the governors were not only changed, but new
principles were adopted and better practices were
introduced; and the Ayrshire people were gratified,
by the abolition of episcopacy, and by the substitu-
tion of presbyterianism in its room, which brought
with it its old maxims of intolerance and its inva-
riable habit of persecution." — [Caledonia, vol. iii pp.
473,474.] The singular assertion with which this
extract closes requires no refutation from us. It is
but a proof of the amazing obliquity of perception
with which otherwise shrewd minds are sometimes
afflicted, even on points where facts as well as all
history and respectable testimony are against
them.
AYRSHIRE AND GALLOWAY RAILWAY.
See Ayrshire.
AYTON, -a parish, containing a village and a
post-office of its own name, on the coast of Berwick •
shire. The name was anciently written Eyton and
Eitun, and seems to have been taken from the
water of Eye. The parish is bounded by Colding-
hain and Eyemouth parishes on the north ; by the
German ocean on the east; by Mordington and
Foulden on the south; and by Chimside and Cold-
ingham on the west. It is about 4J miles long,
measured from north-east to south-west, or from
north-west to south-east; and 3 J broad, measured
from east to west. There are about 2£ miles of
sea-coast, which presents a high and rocky shore,
celebrated in the annals of smuggling. The north-
ern side of the parish has a beautifully undulated
surface ; and the southern side has a softly contoured
range of hiUs, richly adorned with wood, and rising
in the highest part to an altitude of about 660 feet
above the level of the sea. The whole surface, ex-
cepting about 800 acres which are in plantation, is
under cultivation. The water of Eye goes through
a large part of the interior, along a very lovely
valley, and contains good trout, but not in any
quantity. The Ale traces the northern boundary
to a confluence with the Eye, about 1J mile from
the sea ; and the united stream then traces the rest
of the northern boundary to the shore at the town
of Eyemouth. The North British railway traverses
the parish in a curving route, first eastward and
then southward; and commands close views of
most of its interesting objects. It enters on a high
embankment at Hornburn, 9 miles from Berwick;
passes through a cutting, overlooked by the man-
sion of Prenderguest; goes along another embank-
ment, and over the road to Dunse, and close to the
mansion of Peelwalls; traverses a cutting on the
Peelwalls estate; has a station at Cocklaw, for
Ayton and Eyemouth, and commands there a superb
view of the valley of the Eye, with Ayton Law and
the village and park of Ayton in the foreground ;
passes then through much diversity, with glimpses
of Netherbyres and Linthill, and a view of Chester-
bank and its lofty backgrounds ; runs along an em ■
baukment amid the richly picturesque scenery of
Flemington; crosses on an iron viaduct the great
road from Edinburgh to London; traverses a cutting
at the head of the ravine leading down to the ro-
mantic fishing-village of Bummouth, and there has
a goods' station for that village and for Eyemouth;
and finally takes leave of the parish at the little
stream of Ross Burn. On the hills on the south
side of the parish are the remains of two camps
supposed to be Roman or Saxon. Urns, and broken
pieces of armour, have been found here. In the
low grounds towards the north-west are the vestiges
of three encampments thought to have been Danish
or Pietish. History mentions the castle of Ayton,
founded by the Norman baron De Vesci, which was
taken by the Earl of Surrey in 1498 ; but no vestiges
of it now remain. The modern house of Ayton
which was built upon its site was consumed by fire
in 1834; and a splendid new mansion, in the old
castellated style, was built in 1851. In 1673, there
appear to have been 24 heritors, including portioners
and feuars, in this parish; in 1790, there were about
14. At the former period, they were more distin-
guished by family and rank. There were six of the
name of Home, each of some distinction. — The
village of Ayton stands on Eye water and on the
Berwick and Edinburgh road, near the centre of the
parish, and about 7J miles from Berwick. It is
modern, regular, neat, and cleanly. It stands partly
on a pleasant bank sloping to the south, has some
AYTON.
Hi
BADENOCH.
handsome villus in its outskirts, borrows beauty
from tlio ricli scenery around it and from the luscious
pleasure-grounds of Ayton Castle, anil altogether is
one of the loveliest villages in Scotland. Two paper
mills were erected in the vicinity about the end of
last century, and are still in employment. Popu-
lation of the village of Ayton in 1861, 875. The
fishing village of Jjuriiiiiuiit.il is finely situated in a
deep cove on the coast; and it has an excellent
boat harbour, which was erected at the cost of
£1,000. Cod, ling, haddocks, whitings, flounders,
hollyback, turbot, mackerel, and other kinds of fish
are caught on the coast in their seasons; and lob-
sters and crabs are plentifully obtained on the rocky
shore. There are four grain mills in the parish.
Population in 1831, 1,602 ; in 1861, 2,014. Houses,
306. Assessed property in 1860, £14,987.
This parish is in the presbytery of Chirnside, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. It was anciently
united to Coldingham ; and at the Reformation it
formed a parish in conjunction with Lainberton; but
in 1650, Lamberton was disjoined from it. Patron,
the Crown. Average stipend of the years 1803-5,
£257 6s. 8d. Glebe, of variable value ; till lately,
£3G. Unappropriated tenuis, about £330. School-
master's salary, £55, with about £50 fees, govern-
ment grant, and one or two other small emoluments.
The old parochial church stands about a J of a mile
from the village, in a beautiful situation on the
Eye, and comprises part of the walls of an ancient
pile. A new church was erected in 1865, at a cost
of between £5,000 and £6,000 ; is a splendid edifice,
in the Gothic style, with a spire 130 feet high ; and
contains 750 sittings. About three-fourths of the
cost were defrayed by A. M. Innies, Esq., of Ayton
Castle. There are two United Presbyterian churches
in the village, containing 295 and 561 sittings; and
one of them is recent and neat. There are an infant
school and a side school at Burnmoutli, with salar-
ies from the heritors of £30 and £25, and with gov-
ernment allowances. There are also two private
schools and a parochial library.
B
LJACKDEAN, a hamlet m the parish of Newtown,
Edinburghshire.
BACKIES, a village in the parish of Golspie,
Sutherlandshire. Here is the ruin of an ancient
Pictish tower, which looks into a glen, and commands
an extensive prospect of sea and land. Population
of the village, 145.
BACKLESS, a hill in the parish of Watten,
Caithness-shire, on which cattle trysts are held on
the first Monday of July, August, and September.
BACKMUIE, a village in the parish of Lift' and
Bervie, south-west border of Forfarshire. Popula-
tion, 166.
BACKMUIE OF GILSTON. See Gixstox.
BACKWATER. See Lixtrathen and Isla (The).
BADANVOGIE. See Applecross.
BADCALL (Loch), or Badcaul, a small bay on
the western coast of Sutherlandshire, in the parish of
Edderachylis, between Loch Broom on the south, and
Scourie bay on the north. At its mouth is an archi-
pelago of small islands. See Edderachylis.
BADENOCH, a highland district, about 35 miles
long and 2S miles broad, in the south-east of the
mainland of Inverness-shire. It is bounded on the
north by the Monadhleadb mountains, which form
the southern side of the vale of the Findhorn; on
the east by t'.ie Braes of Abemethy; on the south
by Athole and Lochaber; and on the west by the
Great Glen of Scotland, or rather by the Corryarick
mountains which lie farther to the east. It is a wild
and mountainous district, covered in many places
with natural woods, and in others presenting wide
stretches of bleak lonely moorland. The river Spey
intersects the district, rising in Loch Spey, a small
mountain tara at the western extremity of Badenoch,
at an elevation of 1,200 feet above the sea, and flow-
ing slowly through a gradually widening valley,
first eastward, and then north-east. See article
Spey. The district, when first seen from the descents
of the Grampians, gives promise of a much wider
diffusion of comfort than a minute investigation
realizes. The plain is extensive, and being fre-
quently flooded in winter by the Spey, great part oi
it consists of meadow and rich arable land, reclaimed
from the water by means of artificial embankments.
The woods growing around the gentlemen's houses,
and in spots where they have been planted of late
years for purposes of improvement, have a warm and
flourishing appearance. Most of the farm-houses are
substantial stone structures ; few of the black heather
bothies are seen, which are the usual accompani-
ment of Highland misery; and the villages are
modem and cleanly in their aspect. To the eye,
in short, are presented all the characteristics of a
thriving lowland valley. But a close inspection
soon convinces the inquirer that a deep stratum of
wretchedness lies under this fair exterior; and
numerous families, in very poor and distressed cir-
cumstances, are found "living in bouses which
evidently were erected when the prosperity of the
district was greater, and the people in much higher
spirits than they are now. A great proportion of
the large farms a few years ago were occupied by
gentlemen who had been connected with the army.
A stranger was amazed at the majors and captains
and lieutenants, with whom he found a peaceable
country to be planted; and as they were all Macpher-
sons or Macintoshes, he was apt to get completely
bewildered in attempting to preserve their respective
identities. These gentlemen were officers who re-
ceived their commissions from the Duchess of Gordon,
and on returning from the wars founded upon their
services in the field a claim to a comfortable agricul-
tural settlement. This claim was allowed; but
these military farmers, generally speaking, were not
successful. See the articles Alvie, Kingussie, and
Laggan.
Badenoch was in ancient times the land of the
powerful family of the Cumyns or Cuinmins, who
came from Northumberland in the reign of David I.
BADENYON.
116
BALCARRES.
In 1230, Walter, second son of William Cvmiyn,
Earl of Buchan, acquired the lordship of Badenoch,
by grant of Alexander II. In 1291, John Cumyn,
Lord of Badenoch, acknowledged Edward I. as
superior lord of Scotland. His son, popularly called
Bed John Cumyn, was slain at Dumfries by the
dagger of Bruce, on the 10th of February, 1306.
Bruce annexed the lordship of Badenoch to the earl-
dom of Moray ; and the Clan Chattau appears from
about this period to have settled in Badenoch.
Robert II. granted Badenoch to his son Alexander,
Earl of Buchan, " a species of Celtic Attila, whose
common appellation of ' the Wolf of Badenoch ' is
sufficiently characteristic of the dreadful attributes
which composed his character." " On some provoca-
tion given him by the Bishop of Moray," says Tytler,
" this chief descended from his mountains, and, after
laying waste the country, with a sacrilege which
excited unwonted horror, sacked and plundered the
cathedral of Elgin, carrying off its rich chalices and
vestments, polluting its holy shrines with blood, and
finally setting fire to the noble pile, which with
the adjoining houses of the canons, and the neigh-
bouring town, were burnt to the ground. This
exploit of the father was only a signal for a more
serious incursion, conducted by his natural son, Dun-
can Stewart, who, at the head of a wild assemblage
of katherans, armed only with the sword and target,
broke with irresistible fury across the range of hills
which divides the county of Aberdeen and Forfar,
and began to destroy the country, and murder the
inhabitants, with reckless and indiscriminate cruelty.
Sir Walter Ogilvy, then sheriff of Angus, along
with Sir, Patrick Gray, and Sir David Lindsay of
Glenesk, instantly collected their power, and, al-
though far inferior in numbers, trusting to the tem-
per of their armour, attacked the mountaineers at
Grasklune, near the Water of Ua. But they were
almost instantly overwhelmed, the katherans fight-
ing with a ferocity, and a contempt of life, which
seem to have struck a panic into their steel-clad
assailants. Ogilvy, with his brother, Wat of Lich-
toune, Young of Ouchterlony, the Lairds of Cairn-
cross, Forfar, and Guthry, were slain, and sixty men-
at-arms along with them ; while Sir Patrick Gray
and Sir David Lindsay were grievously wounded,
and with difficulty carried off the field. The indo-
mitable fierceness of the Highlanders is strikingly
shown by an anecdote preserved by Winton. Lind-
say had pierced one of these, a brawny and powerful
man, through the body with his spear, and thus
apparently pinioned him to the earth ; but although
mortally wounded and in the agonies of death, he
writhed himself up by main strength, and with the
weapon in his body, struck Lindsay a desperate blow
with his sword, which cut him through the stirrup
and boot into the bone, after which he instantly
sunk down and expired." In 1452, the Crown be-
stowed Badenoch on the Earl of Huntly, who, at
the head of the Clan Chattan, maintained a fierce
warfare with the western clans, and his neighbours
of Lochaber.
BADENYON, a small property in the parish of
Glenbucket, Aberdeenshire, on which are the relics
of an old house, celebrated in the Bev. John Skinner's
song, ' John o' Badenyon.'
BAGGAGE KNOWE. See Kilsyth.
BAHYMONT. See Andrews (St).
BAIDLAND HILL. See Dalry, Ayrshire.
BAIKIE. See Aielie.
BAILLIESTON, a village, with a post-office, in
the Crosshill district of the parish of Old Monkland,
Lanarkshire. It has a United Presbyterian church,
an Episcopalian church, and coaches five times a-
day to Glasgow. Population in 1861, 1,832.
BAINSFOED. See Bratnsford.
BAL-, a prefix in many topographical names ol
Celtic origin. It is the same as the Bally which
occurs so very often in the topographical nomencla-
ture of Ireland. It is commonly interpreted to
mean 'a town;' but it originally bore that mean-
ing only in reference to the central seat of popula-
tion on a single estate, — the town or homestead of
a landlord, comprising only his own residence and
the residences of his domestics and immediate re-
tainers. Some of the names compounded with it
refer to the original landowners — as Balmaghie,
'the town of Macghie;' Balmaclellan, 'the town
of Maclellan ; ' and others either refer to some his-
torical incident, or are descriptive of the character
or situation of the locality, — as Balfron, ' the town
of sorrow;' Balquidder, 'the town in the back
country.'
BALAGEICH. See Ballochgeich.
BALAGICH. See Eaglesham.
BALAHULISH. See Ballachulish.
BALANTEADOCH. See Temple.
BALBAEDIE, a mansion, park, and lake, in the
parish of Bathgate, Linlithgowshire.
BALBEDIE-HILL. See Looh-Leven.
BALBEGGIE, a village, with a post-office, in the
parish of Kinnoul, Perthshire. It stands 4J miles
north-east of Perth, on the road thence to Newtyle.
It contains a United Presbyterian church, with
about 350 sittings, and gives name to a section of
the parish of Kinnoul. See Kinnoul. Population
of the village, 222.
BALBEUCHLY, an estate ecclesiastically be
longing to the parish of Caputh, Perthshire, but
locally situated within the parish of Auchterbouse,
Forfarshire. The Dundee and Newtyle railway has
a station on it, between the stations of Baldragon
and Auchterbouse.
BALBIBNIE, an estate in the parish of Mark
inch, Fifeshire. Some years ago the proprietor
made extensive alterations on it; and, in the course
of these, nearly removed the village of Balbimie,
situated near the Leven, 7J miles north of Kirk-
caldy. Here are extensive collieries ; and here also
are a paper mill and a woollen factory.
BALBIBNIE, a village in the parish of Ruthven,
Forfarshire.
BALBITHAN. See Kntore.
BALBLA1E, an island in the parish of Fodderty,
Ross-shire.
BALBLAIR, a house, on the top of a lofty ter-
race, about a mile west of the town of Nairn, mark-
ing the spot where the royal army lay encamped on
the eve of the battle of Culloden, and overlooking
the whole route by which the Highlanders had to
approach in their proposed night attack. See Cul-
loden.
BALBROGIE, a village in the Perthshire portion
of the parish of Cupar-Angus. Population in
1851, 80.
BALBUNNOCH, a village in the south-east cor-
ner of the parish of Longforgan, Perthshire. It
includes a range of houses erected about thirty
years ago on the estate of Mylnefield, and most of
its inhabitants are employed at a neighbouring
bleachfield within an adjacent parish. Population
200.
BALCAIL. See Glenluce.
BALCARRES, the family-house and estate of a
branch of the house of Lindsay, in the parish of
Kilconquhar, Fifeshire. Balcarres was erected into
a barony in 1592, in favour of John, second son of
David, eighth Earl of Crawford. His son David
was created first Lord Balcarres in 1633 ■ and his
grandson, Alexander, first Earl, in 1661. The pre-
BALCARRY POINT.
117
BALFRISHEL.
sent seats of the noble family of Crawford and Bal-
carres are Dunecht House in Aberdeenshire and
Haigh Hall in Lancashire. Lady Anne Lindsay,
the eldest daughter of the fifth Earl of Balcarres,
was the author of the well-known ballad of Aula
Robin Gray. The present mansion of Balcarres is
an old pile, recently decorated into a fair specimen
of the Tudor style of architecture, situated on a
southern slope, about three miles from the coast,
and commanding an extensive view of the frith of
Forth and the Lothians.
BALCARRY POINT, a headland at the west
end of the entrance of Auchincaim bay, in the
parish of Rerrick, Kirkcudbrightshire. The Ayr-
shire and Galloway Railway Company intended to
make this the terminus of their railway, and to
construct here a commodious harbour or pier and
quay. Sec Auciiincairn.
BALCASKIE. See Carnbee.
BALCASTLE, a hamlet in the parish of Slaman-
nan, Stirlingshire. See also Kilsyth.
BALCHRISTIE, an estate in the parish of New-
burn, Fifeshire. A church of the Culdees is sup-
posed to have stood here, on a spot about 14; mile
south-west of Colinsburgh. David I. granted to the
monks of Dunfermline, " Balchristie cum suis rectis
divisis, excepta rectitudine quam Keledei habere
"debent." A dispute ensued between the prior and
canons of St. Andrews, and the monks of Dunferm-
line, about their respective rights to Balchristie.
King William determined that the nlonks should
have Balchristie, subject to the rights which the
Culdees had in it during the reign of David I.
BALCOMIE. See Ceail.
BALCRAID. See Newttle.
BALCRUVIE. See Largo.
BALCURRIE, a village in the Milton district of
the parish of Markinch, Fifeshire. Population, 186.
BALDERNOCK, a parish on the southern border
of Stirlingshire. It is bounded on the south by
Lanarkshire, and on other sides by the parishes of
East Kilpatrick, Strathblane, and Campsie. Its
post town is Glasgow, 7 or 8 miles to the south.
Its greatest length is 4 miles, and its breadth is
about 3 miles. Bardowie Loch, covering about 70
acres, and containing excellent pike and perch, lies
on the south-west boundary. The river Kelvin
traces the southern boundary, and is here a sluggish
stream, subject to very high occasional freshets.
Embankments were constructed nearly a century
ago to prevent it from making inundations. About
700 or 800 acres of rich flat alluvial land, called the
Balmore Haughs, lie alongside of it. The rest of
the surface of the parish rises by gradual ascent,
pleasantly diversified with round swelling knolls,
and terminates in moorish ground, which has a
height of upwards of 300 feet above the level of the
sea, and commands an extensive and beautiful pros-
pect. The landowners are numerous, The esti-
mated yearly value of the raw produce in 1841 was
£5,383. Assessed property in 1860, £6,500. Coal
and lime have long been worked ; ironstone, fire-clay,
and alum ore are also valuable ; and the Hurlet and
Campsie Alum Company have here a copperas work.
In the beginning of the reign of Alexander II. the
lands of Cartonbenach were conveyed to Maurice
Galbraith by Malduin, Earl of "Lennox. Soon
after, in 1238, we find the same barony granted,
under the name of Bathernock, to Arthur, son of
Maurice Galbraith, with power to seize and con-
demn malefactors, on condition that the convicts
should be hanged on the Earl's gallows. From the
Galbraiths of Bathernock, chiefs of the name, de-
scended the Galbraiths of Culcruich, Greenock,
Killearn, and Balgair. In the north-west corner of
the parish, on an elevated piece of ground, stands
an old ruined tower, being all that now remains oi
the mansion-house of the Galbraiths of Bathernock.
It appears to have been a large building surrounded
by a ditch. Not far from this to the eastward, are
several of those large loose heaps of stones called
cairns, some of them oblong, and others of a circu-
lar shape. One of the circular cairns is about 80
yards in circumference. Tradition says that in this
place, called Craigmaddy moor, a battle was fought
with the Danes, in which one of their princes was
slain; and the farm on which these cairns are is
named Blochairn, which may be a corruption of
Balcairn, viz., ' the town of the cairns.' But the
most curious relic of antiquity in this parish, is a
structure called the Auld wife's lift, situated about
a mile to the north of the church, on high ground,
in a little plain of about 250 yards in diameter,
which is surrounded by an ascent of a few yards in
height, and in the form of an amphitheatre. It
consists of three stones of a greyish grit, two of
which, of a prismatic shape, are laid along close by
each other upon the earth; and the third — which
was once probably a regular parallelopiped, and
still, notwithstanding the depreciations of time, ap-
proaches that figure — rs laid above the other two.
The uppermost stone is 18 feet long, 11 broad, and
7 thick, placed nearly horizontally with a small dip
to the north. Its two supporters are about the
same size. It can hardly be matter of doubt that
this is one of those rude structures erected by the
Druids in their sacred groves. Its situation, in a
very sequestered spot, on an eminence surrounded
by a grove of oaks — the stumps of which trees were
still visible in 1795 — corresponds exactly with every
description we have of these places of worship.
The tradition is that three old women, having
wagered which should carry the greatest weight,
brought hither in their aprons the three stones of
which the lift is constructed. Population in 1831,
805;"in 1861, 718. Houses, 132.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton,
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend, £156 19s. Id.; glebe £19. School-
master's salary now is £55, with about £20 fees.
The parish church was built in 1795, and contains
406 sittings. There is a Free church ; attendance,
410 ; yearly sum raised in 1S65, £134 16s. If-d. There
is easy access to the Campsie Junction railway, the
Edinburgh and Glasgow railway, and the Forth
and Clyde canal.
BALDOON. See Kirkinner.
BALDOVAN, a village in the parish of Strath-
martine, Forfarshire. Population in 1851, 44. It
has a station on the Dundee and Newtyle railway,
7f miles north-north-west of Dundee.
BALDEAGON, a station on the Dundee and
Newtyle railway, 1 mile north-north-west of Baldo-
van station.
BALDRIDGE. See Dunfermline.
BALEDGAENO. See Balledgarno.
BALEENO, a village, with a post-office, in the
parish of Carrie', Edinburghshire. It stands on the
Water of Leith, about 6 miles south-west of Edin-
burgh. Here are a sandstone quarry, a paper-mill,
and a United Presbyterian church, — the last built
in 1829, and containing about 500 sittings. Popu-
lation, 510.
BALFIELD, a hamlet in the parish of Lcthnott,
Forfarshire.
BALFOUR. See Kixgoldrum and Markixch.
BALFOUR, a post-office station, subordinate tc
Kirkwall, Orkney.
BALFRISHEL, a village in the parish of Bole-
skine, Inverness-shire.
BALFKON.
118
BALLACHULItfH.
BALFEON, a parish, containing a post-town of
its own name, in Stirlingshire. It is bounded by
the parishes of Drynien, Kippen, Gargnnnock, Fin-
try, and Killearn. It extends nearly due west, and
is about 11 miles long and 3 miles broad. The En-
drick, which is here a beautiful, winding, wooded,
and excellent angling stream, flows along the south-
ern boundary. The surface of the parish rises gra-
dually to the north. Very extensive georgical im-
provements were in progress in 1865 ; and those of
one proprietor cost upwards of £40,000 in two
years. The views along the valley of the Endrick,
round by the Campsie and Kilpatrick hills, and
away to many of the grandest peaks of the frontier
Grampians, are superb. The landowners are nu-
merous, and chiefly non-resident. The clachan or
kirktown of Balfron was formerly a place of some
little note, but has been shorn of its importance by
its immediate neighbour the modern town of Bal-
fron. On an old oak-tree in the middle of it, with
a trunk of 14 feet in circumference, there was for-
merly one of those curious old implements of public
punishment called a jougs. Fopulation of the par-
ish in 1831, 2,057 ; in 1861, 1,517. Houses, 193.
Assessed property in 1843, £4,704.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton,
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Earl
of Ki'nnoul. Stipend, £157 6s. 4d.; glebe, £25.
The parish church was built in 1832, and contains
690 sittings. There is a Free church for Killearn
and Balfron ; and the yearly sum raised in connex-
ion with it in 1865 was £162 4s. 7d. There are
two United Presbyterian churches, — the one at Bal-
fron, and the other at Holm of Balfron, the former
containing 320 sittings, and the latter 500. There
are a parochial school, with salary of £41 ; and an
industrial female school with about 100 pupils.
The Town of Balfron stands on a geutle decliv-
ity, sloping to the Endrick, If mile east of Balfron
station on the Forth and Clyde railway, 19 miles
north-north-west of Glasgow, and about the same
distance west-south-west of Stirling. It was found-
ed in 1789 by Eobert Dunmore, Esq. of Ballindal-
loch, who first introduced cotton-weaving into the
parish. It occupies a beautiful situation, and was
neatly built ; and it long was prosperous and inter-
esting; but it depended mainly on handloom-weav-
ing, which has been displaced by machinery; and
now many of its houses are dilapidated or deserted.
Most of its inhabitants are shopkeepers, cotton-
spinners, and handicraftsmen. The Ballindalloch
cotton-mills, in its vicinity, once employed about
250 hands, but now employ only from 50 to 80.
The town has a branch-office of the British Linen
Company's Bank. It has also a public library. A
fair is held on the third Tuesday of May, old style.
Communication is maintained by coach with Miln-
gavie, and thence by railway with Glasgow. Popu-
lation of the town, in 1861, 1,179.
BALGAVIES, a lake on the mutual border of the
parishes of Eoscobie and Aberlemno, Forfarshire,
it is an expansion of the river Lunan, adjacent to
the Auldbar station of the Aberdeen railway. It
was formerly dredged for marl, for the use of far-
mers ; and it now affords to the angler a tolerable
supply of perch and pike.
BALGAY. See Dundee.
BALGEDIE, a hamlet in the parish of Portmoak,
Kinross-shire. It stands on the north road from
Kinross to Leslie, J a mile north of Kinnesswood.
Here is an United Presbyterian church.
BALGLASS. See Killeahn.
BALGONIE, two villages,— Milton of Balgonie
and C'oalton of Balgonie, — in the parish of Mark-
inch, Fifeshire. Milton of Balgonie stands on the
river Leven, 2 miles south-east of the town of Mark-
inch. It has a post-office and a Chapel of Ease, —
the latter containing 650 sittings. Po]3ulation in
1861, 428. Coalton of Balgonie is in the vicinity
of Milton. Population in 1861, 490. The Balgonie
flax-mills form three sides of a rectangle, 160 feet
by 140, and employ about 270 hands. The Bal-
gonie bleachfield employs about 70 hands. The old
baronial castle of Balgonie stands on a steep bank,
overhanging the Leven. It was a seat of the Earl
of Leven, who was created Baron Balgonie in 1641.
The estate of Balgonie was purchased in 1823 for
£104,000 by James Balfour, Esq. of Whittingham.
BALGOWNIE. See Aberdeen.
BALGBAY, a hamlet in the parish of Tealing,
Forfarshire.
BALGRAY, a hamlet in the parish of Govan,
Lanarkshire. It stands on the banks of the Kelvin,
about 3 miles north-west of Glasgow. Here is a
quarry of excellent sandstone, about 600 yards
from a wharf on the Forth and Clyde canal. Up-
wards of twenty fossil trees were discovered in this
quarry about 25 years ago, standing close to one
another, in their natural position, all apparently
exogens. A piece of the trunk of one of them,
about two feet in diameter, was taken to the Ander-
sonian Museum in Glasgow.
BALGEEGGAN. See Stosyktrk.
BALHADDIE, a hamlet in the Ardoch district
of the parish of Dunblane, Perthshire. Population
33.
BALINTOT.E, a fishing-village in the parish ot
Fearn, Boss-shire. It stands on a piece of flat coast
of the Moray frith, about 6 miles north-north-east
of the Souters of Cromarty, and about 7 south-east
of Tain. Population, 306.
BALINTEAID, a harbour in the parish of Kil-
muir-Easter, Eoss-shire. It has a pier, and accom-
modates vessels from Leith, Aberdeen, and other
ports for bringing coals and general merchandise,
and taking away grain and timber. See Kilmuir-
Easter.
BALISHEAR, an island, about 3J miles long,
near the south-west coast of North Uist, in the Out-
er Hebrides. Population in 1841, 157; in 1861,
199. Houses, 35.
BALKELLO, a hamlet in the parish of Tealing,
Forfarshire.
BALLACHRAY. See Ballochroy.
BALLACHULISH, a district containing several
notable objects of its own name on the mutual bor-
der of Argyleshire and Invemess-shire, around
Loch Leven. The ferry of Ballachulish is situated
near the mouth of that loch, and connects the roads
from Appin and Tyndruin with the road to Fort
William. It is distant 5 miles from Corran ferry,
16 miles from King's House, 14 from Fort William,
31 from Tyndrum by the Glencoe road, 45 from Fort
Augustus, and 61 from Inverary by the military
road. The Glasgow and Inverness steamers fre-
quently call here. Each side has an inn ; and the
view from that on the north side is singularly grand.
" Beyond the ferry, the hills, covered with woods
and pastures, rise gradually to a considerable height,
and decline to the south-west, where the lochs of
Leven and Linnhe unite. In that direction, the eye,
gliding over a vast expanse of water, is arrested by
immense groups of mountains of different forms and
heights in Morven, which compose an admirable
landscape. About 4 miles eastward are the stupen-
dous mountains of Glencoe. Such variety of grand
and interesting scenery is not perhaps to be found
in any other parfof Scotland." The village of Bal-
lachulish stands on the north, or Inverness-shire,
side of the ferry, and has a post-office. Population
RALLANTRAE.
119
BALLATER.
in 1841, 279. Tho slate quarry of Ballachulish is
Situated about 2 miles erst of (lie south side of tlie
ferry, at the mouth of Gleneoe. It employs about
300 persons, and yields annually from five to seven mil-
lions of roofing-slates. A village called Portnacroish
or Laroch adjoins the quarry, contains good stone
houses for the workmen, and has a population of
about 500. A neat Episcopalian chapel stands near
the quarry, and about half-a-mile from "the sound-
ing Conaj" and has at times been attended by so
many as 300 communicants. There is a Free church
for Ballachulish and Gleneoe, the yearly sum raised
in connexion with which in 1865 "was £87 14s. lOd.
A large tract of country, under the name of Balla-
chulish, and belonging to the parish of Kilmalie,
was erected into a quoad sacra parish by authority
of the General Assembly in May, 1833; and again
by authority of the Court of Teinds in December,
1845. It consists of two distinct districts, separated
from each other by the Linnhe loch, with a church
in each district, in which worship is performed alter-
nately once a fortnight. The district connected
with the church at North Ballachulish, which lies
in Inverness-shire, is 17 miles in length by 7 in
breadth; that connected with the church at Ard-
gour in Argyleshire, is 14 miles by 6. The two
churches arc about 4 miles apart, and were built in
1829, at an expense of £1,470 each, under the pro-
visions of the act 5° George IV. c. 90. The church
at Ballachulish has 300 sittings; that of Ardgour,
210. Stipend £120, with a manse and glebe. This
parish is in the presbytery of Abcrtarff, and synod
of Glenelg. Patron, the Crown. Population in
1851, 1,235.
BALLAGGAN. See Strathblaxe and Blase.
BALLANBREICH. See Flisk.
BALLANGEICH. See Stiklihg.
BALLANTRAE, a parish, containing a village of
its own name with a post-office, in the south-western
corner of Ayrshire. It is bounded by the Irish sea,
Loch Ryan, Wigtonshire, and the parish of C'ol-
monell. Its length, from north to south, is about
10 miles; and its breadth is nearly as great. The
coast is beaten by a tremendous surf in westerly
and north-westerly winds ; and, except for about two
miles adjacent to the village, is in general high and
rocky. The land rises with a gradual slope from
the shore to the tops of the mountains forming part
of that extensive range of hills which stretches
across the south of Scotland, almost from the Irish
sea to the eastern extremity of the Lammermoors.
The highest hill is Benerard, about 6 miles south-
east of Ballantrae, which has an elevation of 1,430
feet. The surface of the parish is much diversified
with heights and hollows, intersected by little
streams of water descending from the hills. All
beyond the mountains towards the east is soft mossy
ground covered with heath and ling. The principal
river is the Stixchar: see that article. Another
stream called the App, flows in a south-west direc-
tion through Glenapp into Loch Ryan. Many
parts of the parish command magnificent views of
the frith of Clyde and the Irish sea; and the sum-
mit of Benerard looks also to the Solway frith, the
Isle of Man, and the mountains of Cumberland and
Westmoreland. About 7,000 acres are arable, with
chiefly a light, diy, gravelly soil. There are thir-
teen landowners. The real rental was about £2,000
in 1790, and nearly £7,500 in 1838. The principal
antiquity is the old castle of Ardsteschar: which
see. The road from Ayr to Portpatrick passes down
the valley of the Stinchar and the lower part of
Glenapp. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,506;
in 1861, 1,483. Houses, 265. Assessed property in
1843, £7,265 2s. 9d; in 1860, £9,627.
This parish is in the presbytery of Stranraer and
synod of Galloway. Patron, the Duchess de Coigny.
Stipend, £258 Is. 3d.; glebe, £15 10s. School-
master's salary is £50, with £16 fees, and £16
other emoluments. The parish church was built in
1819, and contains 600 sittings. There is a Freo
church; attendance, 230; yearly sum raised in
1865, £122 8s. 6d. There are four private schools.
The village of Bai.i.antrae stands on tho north
bank of the Stinchar, about J a mile from its mouth,
and on the road from Ayr to Portpatrick, 12J miles
south-south-west of Girvan and 17 north of Stran-
raer. A tidal harbour was recently constructed
here at the cost of about £6,000, contributed by the
neighbouring proprietors and by the Board of Fish-
eries. It comprises a basin of considerable size, ex-
ca%rated out of solid rock, and a strong pier, built on
a rocky ledge. Sloops lie here to unload lime and
coal, and to take in agricultural produce. The
Glasgow and Stranraer steamers also call at the
mouth of the river. The village has a good inn
and a subscription library, and is the seat of a
Farmer's Society. Population, 557.
BALLAT, a bog in the parish of Drymen,
Stirlingshire. It lies at the watershed between the
river-systems of the Forth and the Clyde, or on the
summit-line between the east and the west coasts
of Scotland, yet has an elevation of only 222 feet
above the level of the sea.
BALLATER, a village with a post-office, in the
parish of Glenmuick, Aberdeenshire. It stands on
the left bank of the Dee, and on the road from
Castletown to Aberdeen, 18 miles east by north of
Castletown, and 42 miles west by south of Aberdeen.
It is a modern place, singularly neat and clean, and
looking like the skeleton or miniature of a beautiful
great town. Its houses are stone-built, slated, and
mostly whitewashed. Its subordinate streets cross
the main street at right angles. The parish church
stands in the middle of a large airy square, and has
a handsome, conspicuous steeple. The number of
sittings in this church is about 800. There is also
a Free church, whose total yearly revenue in 1865
was £202 4s. S^d. A bridge was built across the Dee
at Ballater in 1783, but was destroyed by a river-
flood in 1799. A new bridge was finished at the
end of the year 1811, with a water-way of 238 feet,
at an expense of £4,224. It consisted of five arches,
the middle arch having a span of 60 feet, the ex-
treme arches of 34, and the intervening arches of
55 feet. This bridge also was swept away by the
great flood in August 1829. The present bridge is
a handsome wooden structure on stone piers. " The
view of Ballater from the lower extremity of the
plain," says Sir T. D. Lauder, " is something quite
exquisite. I do not speak of the village itself,
which, at that distance, presents little more than
the indication of a town, with a steeple rising
from it; but I allude to the grand features of nature
by which it is surrounded. The very smallness of
the town adds to the altitude of the mountains; for,
when seen from the point I mean, it might be a city
for aught the traveller knows to the contrary. It
stands, half-hidden among trees, in the rich and
diversified vale. On the north rises the mountain-
ous rock of Craigdarroch, luxuriantly wooded with
birch, and divided off from the bounding mountains
of that side of the valley by the wild and anciently
impregnable Pass of Ballater. Beyond the river,
amidst an infinite variety of slopes and wood, is
seen the tall old hunting-tower of Knock; and, be-
hind it, distance rises over distance, till the prospect
is terminated by the long and shivered front of
Loch-na-gar." Ballater is crowded during summer
by lodgers and visitors in attendance on the neigh-
BALLEDGAKNO.
120
BALLOGIE.
bonring mineral 'wells of Pannanich. See the article
Pannanich. Fairs are held here on the first Tues-
day of May, old style, on the second Monday and
Tuesday of September, old style, and on the Satur-
day before the 22d of November. An extension of
the Deeside railway hither was expected to be open
about August, 1866. Population in 1861, 362.
BALLEDGAENO, or Ballerno, a village in the
parish of Inchture, Perthshire. It stands about 87}
miles west of Dundee, and 14 east-north-east of
Perth. It is supposed to have taken its name from
an extinct castle, built in the olden times, by a royal
Prince Edgar. Adjacent to it on the south-east is
the fine mansion of Balledgarno, surrounded by
plantation.
BALLEMENOCH. See Cardross.
BALLENCEIEF. See Aberladv.
BALLENCRIEF WATER. See Toephichen.
BALLEENO. See Balledgarno.
BALLINDALLOCH. See Inveeaven and Bal-
FRON.
BALLINDEAN, a hamlet in the parish of Inch-
ture, liV mile north-west of the village of Inchture,
Perthshire.
BALLINGEAY, — popularly Bingry, a parish in
the south-west of Fifeshire. It is bounded by Port-
moak, Kinglassie, Auchterderran, Beath, and Cleish.
Its post-town is Blairadam. It is about 3J miles in
length, by 1J in breadth. About one-third is under
tillage. Coal is extensively wrought. There was
until recently a considerable loch called Loch Orr,
from which the small stream Orr issues ; but it has
been in great part drained. Towards the eastern
extremity of this loch was a small island, upon
which stood the remains of an ancient castle, sup-
posed to have been founded in the reign of Malcolm
III. The family of Loch Orr was of considerable
importance in early times. In the reign of Alex-
ander II., Adam De Loch Orr was sheriff of Perth;
and the name of Thomas De Loch Orr occurs in the
roll of the parliament held at Ajt. The domain of
Loch Orr afterwards passed into the hands of the
Wardlaws of Tony. A little to the westward of
Loch Orr house were the vestiges of a Roman camp,
now levelled and effaced. Some have conjectured
that this was the spot where the Ninth legion was
attacked and nearly cut off by the Caledonians.
The only hill in the parish is Binarty, on the north
border, and richly adorned with plantation. The
real rental in 1837, was £4,160. Assessed property
in 1865, £5,942 5s. Population in 1831,392; in
1861, 736. Houses, 141.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kinross, and
synod of Fife. Patron, Lady Scott of Abbotsford.
Stipend, £172 8s. 3d.; glebe, £18. Schoolmaster's
salary, £45. The church was built in 1831.
BALUNLUIG, a village in the parish of Logie-
rait, Perthshire. It has a station on the Highland
railway, at the junction of the branch to Aberfeldy,
8£ miles north-north-west of Dunkeld.
BALLINTORE. See Balintore.
BALLINTUMB, a post-office station, subordinate
to Blairgowrie.
BALLO, one of the Sidlaw range of hills, in the
parish of Longforgan, Perthshire. It attains an al-
titude of 992 feet above sea-level.
BALLOCH, a place of thoroughfare in the parish
of Bonhill, Dumbartonshire, a little below the efflux
of the Leven from Loch Lomond. It formerly was
a ferry connecting the countries on the two sides of
the lake and the river; but now it has a neat sus-
pension-bridge, erected in 1842 by Sir James Col-
qulioun of Luss ; and is the meeting-point of the
Dumbarton and the Forth and Clyde railways, and
the starting place of the Loch Lomond steamers.
Several trains arrive and depart daily; and an om-
nibus plies to Drymen. Here is a large and ex-
cellent inn. A great cattle tryst is held in the
vicinity on the 15th of September. The castle of
Balloch was the early seat of the Lennox family;
but no remains of the building now exist.
BALLOCH, a small sheet of water, about half-a-
mile in circumference, at the foot of Torlum, in the
parish of Mutb.il in Perthshire. It discharges itself
into the Earn by a small stream.
BALLOCH, a village in the parish of Inverness.
Population, 104.
BALLOCH CASTLE. See Taymocth Castle.
BALLOCHMYLE, an estate in the parish of
Mauchline, Ayrshire. It comprises about two-fifths
of the parish. Burns has made it famous by his
song of ' The Bonny Lass 0' Ballochmyle.' ' The
braes o' Ballochmyle ' are on the northern bank of
the Ayr, between Catrine and Howford bridge, and
about 2 miles from Mossgiel. " Bending in a con-
cave form," says Chambers in his ' Illustrations of
the Land of Bums,' " a mixture of steep bank and
precipice, clothed with the most luxuriant natural
wood, while a fine river sweeps round beneath
them, they form a scene of bewildering beauty, ex-
actly such as a poet would love to dream in during
a July eve."
BALLOCHNEY, a village in the Clarkston dis-
trict of the parish of New- Monkland, and within
the mun'cipal boundaries of the burgh of Airdrie,
Lanarkshire. Population in 1851, 559. See next
article.
BALLOCHNEY EAILWAY. This is an ex-
tension .of one of the branches of the Monkland and
Kirkintilloch railway, or rather a prolongation of
that railway, by two arms which run into the inte-
rior of New Monkland parish, so as to embrace the
coal and iron-stone works in the rich mining dis-
tricts on both sides of Airdrie. The company of
proprietors was incorporated in 1826 by 7° Geo. IV.
c. 48. The original capital was £18,000, which
was increased, in 1835, to £28,000; and by an act
passed in July 1839, to £70,000. It commences at
Kipps colliery, about 2 miles west of Airdrie, runs
thence in an easterly direction, and passing Airdrie
about a craarter of a mile to the north, terminates at
Ballochney colliery, about 3 miles to the north-east,
sending out in its course several branches to the
town and to the different collieries. This is but a
short railway, not exceeding 3 miles of length in
the main line, and about as much in the branches ;
but it is remarkable for two beautiful self-acting
inclined planes, which form part of the line, and
are the first of the kind that were constructed in
Scotland on any great scale. The gravity of the
ascending and descending trains of waggons, are
nicely balanced against each other, and their velo-
cities regulated throughout the different parts of the
line by varying slightly the inclination of the plane
from top to bottom, by which means undue accele-
ration is prevented. The Ballochney lower inclined
plane is 1,100 yards in length, and rises 118 feet
perpendicular; the inclination varies from 1 in 22
at the top to 1 in 32 at the bottom. The upper in-
clined plane is also 1,100 yards in length, and rises
94 feet perpendicular, varying in inclination from 1
in 25 at the top to 1 in 36 at the bottom.
BALLOCHYOY, a village, with a post-office, in
the north of the island of Mull, about 4 miles west-
south-west of Tobermory. It consists of a single
street, of small neat houses.
BALLOGIE, an estate in the parish of Birse, on
the southern border of Aberdeenshire. Here is a
Roman Catholic chapel. See Birse.
BALLUMBIE. See Mueeoss.
BALMACLELLAN.
121
BALMERINO.
BALLYCHELISH. Sec Ballacuulish.
BALM-WELL. Sec Libehton.
BALMACLELLAN, a parish on the north side
nf Kircudbrightshire, bounded by Dumfries-shire
and by the parishes of Kirkpatrick- Durham, Par-
toun, Kells, and Dairy. Its post-town is New Gal-
loway. Its greatest length is about 14 miles; and
its greatest breadth about 10. Urr water, flowing
from Loch Urr, forms its eastern boundary; the
Ken and Loch Ken skirt it on the south-west;
while the Grapel, flowing south-west into the Ken,
and the head-streams of the Cairn flowing north-
east, separate it from Dairy. The road from Dum-
fries to Newton-Stewart, by New Galloway, inter-
sects the lower or southern half from east to west.
The surface is in general level, except towards the
the northern march, where there is a considerable
range of hills running north-east and south-west.
Along the banks of the Ken, the soil is chiefly diy,
light, and gravelly; the remainder is also of a light
nature, but sometimes of a deep moss, and covered
with heath. Only about 4,000 acres are arable.
There are five small lakes, which are plentifully
stocked with fish,' especially Loch Brack, which is
remarkable for excellent trout of a large size.
There are two slate quarries. The principal land-
owners are Viscount Kenmure and Spalding of
Holm ; but there are twelve others. The real rental
was £1,900 in 1792, and £5,000 in 1840. Assessed
property in 1860, £6,582. A branch of the family
of MacleUan possessed lands contiguous to the
church and village for several centuries, and are
supposed to have transferred their name to the pro-
perty. This family was in great authority so early
as the reign of Alexander II. In 1217, David Mac-
leUan is mentioned in a charter of that king. They
were also heritable sheriffs of Galloway till the time
of James II. Its branches were so numerous and
respectable that there were then in Galloway twelve
knights of the name of MacleUan, of whom Sir
Patrick MacleUan, tutor of Bombie, was the chief.
He was the eldest son of Sir Patrick, who Uved
about the year 1410, and of a daughter of Sir
Andrew Gray, of Broxmouth and Foulis. But, in
1452, having taken part with Hemes of Terreagles,
against William, Earl Douglas, he was besieged in
bis own castle of Eaeberry, and after being cast
into close prison in the Earl's castle of Thrieve,
was put to death, and interred in the abbey of Dun-
dremian. His relations then made great depreda-
tions on Douglas's lands in GaUoway, and his office
of sheriff was forfeited to the Crown. Sir Bobert
MacleUan was made a gentleman of the bed-cham-
ber by Charles I.; and afterwards, in 1633, created
Baron Kirkcudbright, with limitation to heirs male.
The family-possessions at Kirkcudbright have long
since been alienated; and the title has been dormant
since the death of the 9th Lord in 1832. The village
or kirktown of BalmacleUan is situated 1J mile
north-east of New GaUoway. Population in 1851,
113. There is also a hamlet caUed Crogo, which in
1840 had a population of 60. Population of the
parish in 1831, 1,01.3; in 1861, 1,086. Houses, 204.
This parish, formerly a rectory, is in the presby-
tery of Kirkcudbright, and synod of GaUoway.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend £226 19s. 8d.; glebe,
£35. Church bmlt in 1722; enlarged in 1833; sit-
tings 366. There are three parochial schools. The
salary of each of the masters is £26 13s. 4d.; and the
school-fees of two of them amount to about £30.
There is also a private school.
BALMAGHIE, a parish, containing the viUages
of Laurieston and Bridge of Dee, in the centre of
Kircudbrightshire. It is bounded by the parishes
of Kelton, Crossmichael, Partoun, KeUs, Girthon,
Twynholm, and Tongland. Its post-town is Cas-
tle-Douglas. Its greatest length is about 9 miles;
and its greatest breadth about 7. The river Deo
runs along the eastern boundary, and the Black
Water of Dee along the northern. The general
appearance of the surface is far from pleasing to the
eye. A great part of it is covered with heath,
rocks, and morasses. There are a few bleak rugged
hills, which rise to a considerable height, and are
incapable of improvement; but the parish in general
cannot be said to be mountainous. The best culti-
vated tracts He along the eastern and southern
skirts. There are five small lakes in the parish, in
which anglers find abundance of pike, perch, and
trout. Of these, Grannoch, or WoodhaU loch,
is the largest; it is about a quarter of a mile broad,
and 2J miles in length. At Lochenbreck, on the
estate of WoodhaU, is a strong mineral spring,
" that for time immemorial," says a writer quoted
in the Old Statistical account, " has been frequented
by numbers every spring and summer-season, for
behoof of their health; and its good effects have
been sanctioned by every one of the faculty that
knows its virtues. It is a chalybeate water, and
perhaps one of the strongest of the kind in North
Britain." This well still retains its celebrity; and
an inn stands in the vicinity for the accommodation
of visitors. There are sixteen landowners. The
principal mansions are Balmaghie House and
Duchrae House. The real rental was £2,640 toward
the end of last century, and £6,200 in 1844. As-
sessed property in 1860, £7,648. The chief anti-
quity is Thrieve Castle. See the article Thkieve.
The Eev. John MacmiUan, the founder of the Re-
formed Presbytery, from whom the adherents of
that body sometimes took popularly the name oi
MacmiUanites, was minister of Balmaghie, and
suffered deposition here on account of his peculiar
tenets. Several of the parishioners of Balmaghie
fell martyrs during the persecution; and in the
churchvard are gravestones over three of them.
Population in 1831, 1,416; in 1861, 1,225. Houses,
216.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcudbright,
and synod of Galloway. Patron, Gordon of Bal-
maghie. Stipend, £203 8s. 8d. ; glebe, £17 10s.
Unappropriated teinds, £146 0s. Id. There are two
parish schools. Salary of the one schoolmaster,
£43, with about £30 fees ; that of the other, £37,
with £18 fees. The parish chiirch was built in
1794, and has 360 sittings. There is a Free church
preaching station ; and the yearly sum raised in
connexion with it in 1865 was £56 Is. 8d. There
are two private schools.
BAEMAHA, a smaU seat of manufacture, in the
parish of Buchanan, Stirlingshire. It is situated on
the banks of Loch Lomond, about 4 miles west-
north-west of Drymen. About 700 tons of smaU
wood are annuaUy consumed here in the making of
pyrolignou3 acid and dye-stuffs.
" BALMALCOLM, a viUage in the parish of
Kettle, Fifeshire. It stands about £ a mile south-
east of the viUage of Kettle.
BALMANGAN BAY, a smaU harbour in the
parish of Borgue, near the month of the estuary of
the Dee, Kirkcudbrightshire. It has 12 or 15 feet
of water at four hours' flood in all tides. Adjacent
to it is a picturesque ruin of a tower, buUt in the
15th or 16th century.
BALMBBAE, a "village in the parish of Falk
land, Fifeshire.
BALMEEINO, — popularly Bamirnie, — a parish
in Fifeshire; boimded on the north by the frith of
Tay; on the east by the parish of Forgan; on the
south by Kilmany ; and on the west by Creigh and
BALMERINO.
122
BALMORAL.
Flisk. Its post-town is Newport. Its medium
length from east to west is about 3J miles; and its
greatest breadth 2J miles. Two hilly ridges, spurs
of the Ochils, traverse it from east to west, leaving
between them a fertile valley inclining towards the
east. The highest point of the southern ridge is
Coultry hill, which exceeds 500 feet, and is wooded
to the top. The whole shore is bold and rock}'.
Mr. Leighton states the area of the parish at 3,346
acres, of which 2,700 are in cultivation, and about
500 under wood. The area, according to the Ord-
nance survey, is 4,131^ acres. There are four
villages : namely, Galdry near the northern bound-
ary; Balmerino on the coast; Coultry towards the
west; and Kirkton. Balmerino is a nice little fish-
ing village, and a creek of the port of Dundee, with
which it communicates by a weekly packet. But
in 1841 its population was only 62. When the first
Statistical report was written, above 7,000 bolls of
grain were yearly shipped at this port for Dundee
and other markets. But this trade no longer exists :
the farmers find it more convenient to send their
grain to Cupar, and other neighbouring towns.
Salmon are caught on the coast by means of the
toot net, but no longer in such numbers as formerly ;
and that delicate little fish, the spirling, once caught
here in immense quantities, seems to have betaken
itself to other haunts. A considerable number of
the parishioners are employed in weaving for
the Dundee manufacturers. The principal land-
owners are Stuart of Balmerino, Morison of Naugh-
ton, and Wedderburn of Birkhill. The lands of
Balmerino, at the beginning of the 13th century,
were in the possession of Henry de Ruel or Rewel,
whose nephew and heir, Richard, sold them, in
1225, to Queen Emergarde, the mother of Alexander
II., for 1,000 merks. Emergarde founded an abbey
upon her newly- acquired possession, which she
dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and to St. Edward
the Confessor; and, dying in 1233, was buried
before the high altar. The last abbot of this well-
endowed house was Sir John Hay. After the Re-
formation, the lands belonging to it were erected
into a temporal lordship in favour of Sir James
Elphinston, in whose family they continued till the
forfeiture of John, 6th Lord Balmerino, in 1746.
They were then purchased from the Crown by the
York Buildings company, who resold them to the
Earl of Moray. The remains of the abbey are now
of trifling extent. An arcade of pointed arches
supported on short thick pillars, and two vaulted
apartments still remain ; but the chapel has entirely
disappeared. There are still some remains of the
orchard, and one or two venerable chestnut trees in
the surrounding grounds. — A little to the east of
the abbey are the ruins of the ancient castle of
Naughton, surmounting an isolated mass of rock.
Sir William Hay of Naughton is noticed by Winton
as
" Ane honest knyclit, and of gild fame,
A travalit knyclit lang before than."
And Gawain Douglas places him among the heroes
of romance in his 'Paliee of Honour;'
11 Then saw I Maittand upon auld beir'd grey,
Robin Hude, and Gilbert with the quhite hand,
How Hay of Nauchton flew in Madin land."
Mr Leighton conjectures that Naughton was the
site of the battle of Dunnechtan, fought in 685,
wherein the Pictish King, Bredei, defeated and slew
the Saxon King, Egfrid of Northumbria. But Chal-
mers supposes this engagement to have taken place
at Dunnichen in Angus. There is a field in the
neighbourhood of Naughton, called Battle-law, where
the Danes, in their flight from the battle of Lun-
carty, made a vigorous stand against the Scots and
Picts under Kenneth III., but were again put to
flight with severe loss, and compelled to take refuge
in their ships in the mouth of the Tay. — Population
of the parish in 1831, 1,055 ; in 1861, 815. Houses,
203. Assessed property in 1865, £9,996.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the pres-
bytery of Cupar, and synod of Pile. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend, £239 9s.; glebe, £18. Unappro-
priated teinds, £95 4s. 4d. The abbey-church
was used for service till the year 1595, when a new
church was erected near the foot of the Scurr hill,
where the burial-ground still remains, although
the church now in use, which was built in 1811, is
farther east, or more toward the centre of the
parish. The parish-school is at Galdry. School-
master's salary now is £50, witli from £25 to £28
of fees. There is a female school.
BALMORAL, a royal residence in the parish of
Crathie, Aberdeenshire. It is situated on the south
bank of the Dee, 7 miles west-south-west of Balla-
ter, and 1 1 east-north-east of Castletown of Braemar.
It was originally a shooting lodge of the Earl of
Fife ; but was rented on a lease of 38 years, and
very greatly enlarged, by the late Sir Robert Gor-
don, brother of the Earl of Aberdeen; and in 1848,
when 27 years of the lease had yet to run, the re
version of it was purchased by the Queen. The
original building was a long, steep-roofed, high-
gabled, small- windowed house ; and Sir Robert Gor-
don's additions were so numerous and various, in
the form of turrets, central tower, and many-shaped
erections, as to convert it into a very extensive and
very irregular edifice. It belonged to no recognised
order of architecture, — displayed no unity of design,
— produced no harmony of effect ; yet, when seen
at a sufficient distance to be seen as a whole, might
be called picturesquely grand. Other additions were
made to it, after it came into the Queen's posses-
sion ; but these did not alter its character. The
furniture as well as the house was included in the
purchase ; and the royal family took possession of
both with very little change. " The drawing-room,"
says a description, written at the time, "has much
comfort, but no splendour; the walls are covered
with light-coloured chintz, with furniture and hang-
ings to match ; a grand piano forms one appendage,
and a bagatelle board another ; the chief beauty of
all is the view from the windows and balcony,
whence the well-known hill of Craig Gowan, wav-
ing fragrance with every breeze, fills the eye. At-
tached to the centre there are two wings of equal
size, but somewhat differently constructed from each
other. The front of the wing on the left is partially
covered with a green-house, containing the usual
exotics; but that wing is not intended to contain
royalty. All the apartments that can be spared are
devoted to bed-rooms ; dressing-rooms are so em-
ployed for example ; and the only public rooms are
the dining and drawing rooms, and the library and
billiard-room. The latter is on the ground floor oi
the right wing ; nothing is at present in it but
empty shelves ; and in the centre stands a billiard-
table. The entrance hall is at the corner next the
library, occupying the remainder of the ground plan
of this wing ; over the interior door is a shallow
peculiar front ; in Dutch tile-work is the word salve.
The entrance-hall has a Dutch-tile pavement, bear-
ing a dog chained, and the Roman words cave canem;
the fire-place is constructed of iron bars crossed on
the very hearth, for wood ; and the mantel-piece has
figures of warriors projecting from the wood. Above
these, and overhanging the breadth of both the
library and the entrance -hall, is the Quoeu's lied-
BALMORAL.
123
BALQUIDDER.
room. The house, he it remembered, — runs parallel
with the river — that is. from east to west ; so that
all these moms look to Craig Gowan and the South.
A new edifice, worthier of being a royal residence,
was erected in 1853 ; and the old one was removed.
The new castle stands nearer the river than the old
did ; was built after designs by William Smith of
Aberdeen, at a oostof about £100,000; is in the old
Scottish baronial style, with some modifications of
feature; consists of two blocks of buildings, con-
necting wings, and projecting tower, — the last 35
feet square. 80 feet high, surmounted by a circular
turret ; and is all furnished in a manner much more
substantial and chaste than elegant or showy. A
handsome suspension bridge also was constructed
across the Dee, at a cost of ,£5,000; and forms a
communication with the north side of the river at
the church of Crathie. The estate of Balmoral,
comprising about 11,000 acres, was purchased in
1S52, by the Prince Consort; it extends from the
Dee to" the summit of Lochnagar, and joins the
estates of Abergeldie and Birkhall, which also be-
came royal property ; and the three estates consti-
tute one demesne, contain upwards of 35,000 acres,
and extend 11 miles along the Dee, and southward
thence to the watershed of the Dee's basin.
The scenery is everywhere superb. " The vale
or dell in which Balmoral castle stands, is formed
by a circumvallation of ' the everlasting bills,'
being really
1 With rock-wall encircled, with precipice crown'd.'
To use an apposite Shakesperian word, it is almost
completely ' circummured ' with majestic moun-
tains, by which it is bisected or severed into two
several straths. The southern section, more spacious
than the other, is, in superficial shape, a wooded
haugb, a natural platform, sloping gently from under
the shade of Craig-an-Gowan'S shaggy side down to
the margin of the meandering and sparkling Dee,
along which it forms a pleasant, park-like meadow.
The other, or opposite section, is a bosky bank,
rising abruptly from the rushing tide of the river in
the depth of the dell, and anon blending with the
steep northern battlement of hills. From the castle,
whithersoever the eye is directed, it catches glimpses
of the most enchanting scenery, in which the beau-
tiful blends with the sublime, and the picturesque
rises to the romantic. Eastward, the view is bound-
ed by Craig-an-Darrach (the rock of oaks), and by
the precipitous chasm called the Pass of Ballater ;
westward, beyond the military road from Braemar
to Fort George, which winds by the hoary Cairn-na-
Ouimhne, may be got some glorious glimpses of
the pine-clad haughs of Invercauld; southward,
the wearied eye reposes on the soft and fragrant
foliage of the birks of Craig-an-Gowan ; and, north-
ward,
'Dee's silver stream rolls his swift waters near.
Gilt with the golden sunbeams here and there,'
with a hundred heathen' hill-tops — a ' dark ocean of
mountains behind.' The prospect all around, in-
stead of being merely beautiful, becomes truly sub-
lime, when we look from the shore of the river up
to the distant hills ; and the eye is relieved by be-
holding the immediate and intervening objects,
namely, the natural woods on the skirts of the
mountains, up to the point where terminates the
woody region — a point which, in this latitude, is ele-
vated about 2,000 feet above sea-level. Such, then,
is this wild sequestered glen of Balmoral — such is
the site of its castle — such are. the picturesque beau-
ties of its vicinity. In all our romantic land there
is, probably, no region in wdiieh the ' sublime and
beautiful ' are more harmoniously and happily blend-
ed, than in the environs of the secluded haugh which
Her Majesty has selected as the site of her High-
land Home." [Black's Picturesque Tourist. Eighth
Edition, 1850.]
BALMOEE, a village in the parish of Baldemock,
Stirlingshire. Population in 1851, 158. Some rich
adjacent alluvial lands bear the name of Balmore
Haughs. See Baedernock.
BALMU1E. See Mains.
BALMULLO, a village in the parish of LeucbarB,
Fifeshirc. It stands on the road from St. Andrews
to Dundee, and is straggling, airy, and well-watered.
Here is an Original Seceder Meeting-house. Pop
illation, 274.
BALNABEUACH, a small fishing village in the
west end of the parish of Nigg, Eoss-shire. Popu
lation in 1851, 167. See Balsaf-aling.
BALNACEOSS. See Toxglakd.
BALNAGAED, a village in the parish of Little
Dunkeld, Perthshire.
BALNAGOWN. See Kit-muir Easter.
BALNAHUAIGH, an islet of about one mile in
circuit, lying midway between Lunga and Eisdale.
It is included in the parish of Jura, and, in 1800, had
a population of 150, who were supported by quarry-
ing slate, the whole rock being one slate quarry.
BALNAMOON'S MIEES, a morass formerly of
great extent, but now drained and cultivated, about
5 miles north of Arbroath. The small stream Keiler
takes its rise here.
BALNAPALING, a small fishing village at the
west end of the parish of Nigg, Eoss-shire. All the
inhabitants of this village and of Balnabraaeh bear
the surname of either Eoss, Skinner, or M'Leod.
BALNASUIN, a hamlet in the parish of Weem,
Perthshire.
BALQUHAIN. See Chapel of Garioch.
BALQUIDDEE, a highland parish, containing
the post-office village of Locheamhead, and also the
village of Strathyre, in the south-west of Perthshire.
It is bounded by the parishes of Killin, Comrie, and
Callander. Its length from west to east is about 18
miles, and its breadth is between 6 and 7 miles.
It has a somewhat angular outline, with an acute
angle pointing to the west. Eanges of lofty
mountains occupy almost all its borders, so as
nearly to enclose its principal strath. Numerous
torrents descend to Lochs Doiue and Voel, which lie
along the centre of that strath, and to the river
Balvaig, which flows smoothly and curvingly to the
head of Loch Lubnaig within the south-east border
of this parish. After heavy rains the low grounds
around these lochs are widely inundated — as might
be expected from the form of the country. Accord-
ing to tradition all the lower grounds, and the foot
of the mountains, were formerly covered with wood;
and large trunks of oak and birch trees are still
found occasionally in the mosses. There is still a
considerable quantity of coppice. There are also
several plantations. The writer of the first Statis-
tical account claims the south part of Benmore
as in this parish, and estimates its height at 3,903
feet above sea-level ; also the western side of Ben
Voirlich, to which he assigns an altitude of 3,300
feet. A little to the south of Benmore is Binean,
or ' the Mountain of Birds,' which has a nearly equai
elevation. To the south-west of Binean is Ben-
chroan; and to the south-east of Bencbroan are
Stobdune and Benchoan. All these are very lofty
mountains ; but we have not admeasurements of theii
respective heights. The principal roads are that
from Callander, by Loch Lubnaig to Locheamhead.
and through Glen Ogle to Tyudrum ; and that from
Locheamhead to Balquhidder. Glen Ogle is a
BALTA.
124
BANCHORY-DEVENICK.
narrow pass hemmed in for sevei al miles on both
sides by very lofty and precipit' us rocks. Glen
Ample is a narrow deep ravine on the eastern skirts
of the parish, intersected by a rapid mountain-torrent
called the Ample, which flows north into Loch Earn.
The vale of Balquhidder, with its two fine lochs,
presents some very beautiful scenery, and is rife
with traditions of Rob Eoy, many of whose exploits
were performed here, and whose ashes rest in the
little churchyard of Balquhidder. To the west of
the kirktown are ' The Braes of Balquhidder,'
celebrated in Scottish song. There are three man-
sions,— Stronvar House, Edinchip, and Edinample
Castle; and seven considerable landowners, — the
chief of whom are the Earl of Breadalbane, the
Earl of Moray, Sir Mai. Macgregor, Bart., and Mrs.
Carnegie of Stronvar. The kirktown of Balquidder
stands on the Balvaig, a little below the foot of Loch
Voel, 12 miles north-north-west of Callander. Popu-
lation of the parish in 1831, 1,049; in 1861,746.
Houses, 142. Assessed property in 1864, £7,772.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dunblane, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, Sir Mai. Mac-
gregor, Bart. Stipend, £275 15s. lid.; glebe, £20.
Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with £6 fees. The par-
ish church was built in 1855, is a handsome Gothic
structure, and contains 460 sittings. There is a
Free church ; attendance, 140 ; yearly sum raised
in 1865, £102 13s. OJd. There are two non-par-
ochial schools.
BALTA, an islet tying to the east of the isle of
Unst, in the Shetland group, in N. lat. 60° 41'.
Balta sound, between Balta and Unst, is a bay 2 miles
in length, and about half-a-mile broad, so completely
shut in by the island of Balta that, seen from a dis-
tance, it resembles a lake. Both sides of this bay
are in a state of high cultivation.
BALTEBUN. See Saddel.
BALTHAYOCK. See Kinkoul.
BALVAIG (The), a stream which rises in the
western corner of Balquhidder parish in Perthshire,
flows east-north-east into Loch Doine, through which
it flows into Loch Voel, and thence emerging, flows
first east, and then south, to Loch Lubnaig, from the
lower or southern extremity of which it re-issues,
and then flows south-east into the Teith, coming
from Loch Venachoir, which it joins at Bochastle,
about half-a-mile above Callander bridge,,
BALVAIED. See Abeenethy.
BALVENY CASTLE. See Moetlach.
BALVICAE, a village in the island of Seil and
parish of Kilbrandon, Argyleshire.
BALWAHANAID, a hamlet in the parish of
Weem, Perthshire.
BALWEARIE, the ancient seat of the family of
"the wondrous Michael Scott," in the parish of
Abbotshall, Fifeshire. It is said to have been in
their possession for at least 500 years. Only a small
part of it now remains; but this shows it to have
been a building of great strength, with walls 6| feet
thick.
Sir Michael Scott was born at Balwearie in the
early part of the 13th century. Filled with the
thirst of learning from his youth, he left his native
country, and studied successively at Oxford — where
he had Roger Bacon for a fellow-student — at Padua,
and at Toledo; and, having acquired a European
reputation for learning, was invited to the court of
the Emperor of Germany, where he remained some
years. On his return to England, he was honourably
received by Edward I., who permitted him to pro-
ceed to Scotland, where he arrived just after the
death of Alexander III. rendered an embassy to
Norway expedient, for the purpose of conveying
the Princess Margaret, daughter of Eric, King
of Norway, by Margaret, the eldest daughter oi
Alexander III., to Scotland, of the crown of which
kingdom she had become, by her grandfather's death,
the direct and lawful inheritrix. To this honourable
embassy, Sir Michael Scott, and Sir David Wemyss,
another Fifeshire gentleman, were appointed by the
regents of the kingdom. They succeeded so far in
then- mission as to get the young Princess intrusted
to their care ; but the royal maiden sickened on her
passage to Scotland, and died in Orkney. Sir Mi-
chael's name does not again appear in history; ho
died soon after, having attained an extreme age.
Tradition varies concerning the place of his burial ;
but Sir Walter Scott has decided in favour of
Melrose.
" It is well known," says Tytler, in his ' Lives of
Scottish Worthies,' "that many traditions are still
prevalent in Scotland concerning the extraordinary
powers of the Wizard; and if we consider the thick
cloud of ignorance which overspread the country at
the period of his return from the continent, and the
very small materials which are required by Supersti-
tion as a groundwork for her dark and mysterious
stories, we shall not wonder at the result. The
Arabic books which he brought along with him, the
apparatus of his laboratory, his mathematical and
astronomical instruments, the Oriental costume
generally worn by the astrologers of the times, and
the appearance of the white-haired and venerable
sage, as he sat on the roof of his tower of Balwearie
observing the face of the heavens, and conversing
with the stars, were all amply sufficient to impress
the minds of the vulgar with awe and terror.
' Accordingly,' says Sir Walter Scott, in his Notes
on the Lay of the Last Minstrel, ' the memory ot
Sir Michael Scott survives in many a legend,
and in the south of Scotland any work of great
labour and antiquity is ascribed either to the agency
of Auld Michael, of Sir William Wallace, or of the
Devil.' "
Finlay, in his ' Scottish Historical and Romantic
Ballads,' conjectures that Balwearie was the scene of
the atrocious Lammikin's "black revenge," as related
in the ballad of that name, of which one copy com-
mences thus : —
" Lammikin was as gude a mason
As ever hewed a stane;
He biggit Lord Weire's castle,
But payment gat he nane."
And another copy, —
" When Balwearie and his train
Gaed to hunt the wild boar,
He gar'd bar up his castle
Behind and before."
In this latter copy, " the wicked Balcanqual " takes
the place of Lammikin, or Lambkin ; but all writers,
Mr. Finlay tells us, agree in considering this not the
name of the hero but merely an epithet.
BALWHEENE, a village in the parish of Meth-
ven, Perthshire.
BAMBEEICH. See Flisk.
BAMIENIE. See Balmeeino.
BANCHOEY. See Aebeadie, Bakchoey-Ter-
nan, and Deesioe Eailway,
BANCHOEY-DEVENICK, a parish divided into
two parts by the river Dee; and this being here the
boundary between Aberdeenshire and Kincardine-
shire, that part of the parish which lies on the
north side of the river is in the former county, and
that on the south side in the latter. The post-town
is Aberdeen. The part of the parish in Aberdeen-
shire is a strip about one mile in breadth, and 4 ir.
length, stretching both farther east and farther
west than the part of the parish upon the opposite
bank. On the east this part is bounded by the parish
BANCHORY-TERNAN.
125
BANFF.
of Old-Machar; on the north by Newhills ; and on
the west by Petcrcultcr. The Kincardineshire
part is bounded on the east by the parish of Nigg,
and by the German ocean, for about 3 miles; on the
south by Fctteresso parish; and on the west by
Fetteresso and Maryculter. The coast is bold and
rocky, but presents three small fishing-harbours,
Findon, Portlethen, and Downies. The general
appearance of the country is rugged and stony. The
stone which prevails is blue granite. The soil is in
general light, and either mossy or- sandy, but when
properly managed produces good grain, particularly
on the river side, and on some parts of the coast.
There are seventeen landowners. The river Dee is
here about 80 yards broad, but is not navigable.
From its long course, and the mountainous country
through which it runs, it is subject to sudden and
high floods. A foot suspension bridge has here been
thrown across it. Its span between the pillars is
185 feet, and whole length 305 feet. The Aberdeen
railway and the great road from Aberdeen to Edin-
burgh traverse the interior. There ai-e several very
large cairns, both on the north side of the river, and
towards the coast. There is also, on the south side
of the parish, a Druidieal temple, situated on an
eminence about li mile from the coast. Population
of the parish in 1831, 2,588; in 1861, 2,919. Houses,
578. Assessed property in 1865, £10,282 9s.
This parish is in the presbytery and synod of
Aberdeen. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £159 2s.
9d.; glebe, £13 16s. 8d. Schoolmaster's salary, £50,
with £20 fees and other emoluments. The parish
church was built in 1822, . and has 900 sittings.
There is a quoad sacra parish church at Portlethen,
with 460 sittings, and an attendance of 430. There
is a Free church in Banchory-Devenick ; yearly
sum raised in 1865, £180 Ss. lOJd. There are three
private schools.
BANCHORY-TEEXAX, a parish, containing the
small post-town of Banchory or Arbeadie, on the
north border of Kincardineshire. It is bounded on
the south by the parishes of Durris and Strachan ;
and on all other sides by Aberdeenshire. Its length
is about 9 miles, and its breadth about the same.
Its area is intersected by the Dee, and comprises
about 5,090 acres on the south side of that river,
and about 16,210 on the north. The range of Ker-
loack, 1,S90 feet high, touches the southern frontier;
a ridge about 1,000 feet high intervenes between it
and the Dee ; and the long isolated hill of Fare ex-
tends within the northern border. About 6,500
acres of the parochial surface are cultivated ; about
5,000 are under wood ; and most of the remainder is
either moorish pasture or irreclaimable waste. The
scenery along the Dee is eminently picturesque,
abounding in fine strong natural features, and
adorned with the tasteful results of art. The Feugh,
which is a small but impetuous collection of streams
from the Grampians, bisects the southern part of
the parish. Over this river, near a fine cataract
and fall of its waters among rocks, and near its
conflux with the Dee, almost opposite to Banchoiy
the road from Stonehaven to Deeside is carried on a
substantial stone-bridge of four arches. The Loch
of Leys, in the northern part of the parish, several
miles in circuit, had in its centre an artificial island
with an old ruin, supposed to have been a refuge-
castle of the Leys family; and shortly before 1865
the lake was drained, and then disclosed some in-
teresting ancient relics. The chief mansions are
Crathes Castle and Tilwhilly Castle, facing each
other on opposite sides of the Dee ; and the former
belongs to the Burnetts of Leys, who date in the
parish from the time of Robert Bruce, — the latter to
the Douglasses, whose charter dates about 1415.
There are three other good mansions, and many
handsome villas and ornate cottages. The parish
is traversed by the Deeside railway, and has a sta-
tion on it. The old village of Banchory, which
existed in the 14th century, and was long of some
consequence, has been displaced by the railway sta-
tion. The new village is noticed in our article
Arbeadie. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,972;
in 1861, 2,947. Houses, 513. Assessed property
in 1865, upwards of £11,000.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kincardine
O'Neil, and svnod of Aberdeen. Patron, Sir James
H. Burnett of Leys, Bart. Stipend, £287 10s. 9d.;
glebe, £10. The parochial school is combined with
an old endowed grammar school, and there are a
side parochial school, a General Assembly's school,
a Free church school, and two female schools. The
parish church contains nearly 1,200 sittings ; com-
municants in 1865, about 900. There is a Free
church ; yearly sum raised in 1865, £356 15s. 9d.
There is also an Episcopalian church.
BANDIRRAN. See Caputii.
BANETON, or Batneton, a village in the parish
of Kennoway, Fifeshire.
BANFF, a parish, containing a royal burgh of
the same name, in the north-east corner of Banff-
shire. It is bounded on the north by the Moray
frith ; and on other sides by the parishes of Gamrie,
King-Edward, Alvah, Mamoch, and Boyndie. The
Deveron traces the eastern boundary for about 1A
mile to the sea; and the Boyndie traces the greater
part of the western boundary. The length of the
parish north-north-eastward is about 6J miles ; and
the greatest breadth is about 2 miles. The northern
district is pleasingly diversified and softly pictur-
esque ; though its highest ground, called Gallow
Hill, has an elevation of not more than between 200
and 300 feet above the level of the sea. The south-
ern district lies considerably higher than the north-
ern, yet is diversified only by swells, and has a veiy
tame appearance. About 4,000 acres are cultivated,
about 250 are under wood, and about 740 are pastoral
or waste. It is generally supposed that a considerable
part of this parish towards the south-west was, in
ancient times, covered with wood, and belonged to
the forest of Boin. A simple distich, which tradi-
tion has handed down, confirms this opinion : —
" From Culbirnie to the ses,
You may step from tree to tree."
Culbirnie is a farm-hamlet about 3 miles distant
from the sea. The turnpike road from Fraserburgh
to Inverness passes through the northern part of
the parish from east to west. The principal land
holders are, the Earl of Fife, the Earl of Seafield,
and Sir Robert Abereromby of Birkenbog. Duff-
house, the mansion of the Earl of Fife, is a noble
edifice in the Roman style ; and contains some fine
paintings. See article Duff-House. The old cas-
tle of Inehdrewer, about 4 miles south-west of the
town, is still entire. It is only remarkable as hav-
ing been the scene of Lord Banff's death, under
very suspicious circumstances, in 1713. The Bairds
of Auchmedden in this parish are a very ancient
family. From them are descended the Bairds of
Newbyth in East Lothian ; and of the same family
it is asserted, in Rose of MountcofFer s manuscripts,
— but with little probability we think, — was the
celebrated Boyardo, the author of the ' Orlando In-
namorata.' Population of the parish in 1831, 3,711 ;
in 1861, 4,673. Houses, 794. Assessed property
in 1860, inclusive of the burgh, £12,961.
This parish is in the presbytery of Fordyce and
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Earl of Seafield.
Stipend, £245 1 9s. 9d. ; glebe, £35. Unappropriated
BANFF.
126
BANFF.
teinds, £280 3s. 3d. The rector of the grammar
school in the burgh receives the salary of parochial
schoolmaster. The parish church was built in 1790,
and contains 1,500 sittings. A Chapel of Ease was
built in 1835, at Ord, in the southern district of the
parish, about 5 miles from the burgh ; and it has
300 sittings, and is served by a missionary of the
Royal Bounty. There is a Free church in the
town; whose total yearly receipts in 1865 amounted
to £548 15s. 9d. There is also a Free church for
Old and Ordiquhill; whose total yearly receipts in
1865 amounted to £99 19s. 3d. There are in the
town an United Presbyterian church, witli 490 sit-
tings, built in 1822; an Independent chapel, in con-
nexion with the Congregational Union, with 400 sit-
tings, built in 1834; a Scottish Episcopalian chapel,
with 356 sittings, built in 1834; a Wesleyan Metho-
dist chapel, with 300 sittings, built in 1818; a Ro-
man Catholic chapel, with 1 10 sittings; and a United
Christian Brethren's chapel. There are four board-
ing-schools for young ladies, and two free schools,
Perrie's and Wilson's.
BANFF, a royal burgh, a market-town, a sea-
port, and one of the most fashionable places of resi-
dence in the north of Scotland, stands in the north-
east corner of the parish of Banff, on the west side
of the embouchure of the Deveron, 7 miles east of
Portsoy, 22 west of Fraserburgh, 45J north-north-
west of Aberdeen, and 165 north by east of Edin-
burgh. It is closely environed by the superb park
of Duff House ; and it occupies a lovely situation,
and commands a charming prospect. The approach
to it from the south passes down the right bank of
the Deveron, through a series of brilliant close
views, and is carried across the river, 650 yards
above its mouth, by a handsome bridge of seven
arches. The town consists of two parts, the town-
proper and the sea-town, completely separated from
each other by the site of the castle. The town pro-
per is the larger of the two, and stands partly on
low ground beside the river, and partly on an adja-
cent acclivity. The sea-town stands on an elevated
level which, for the most part, terminates abruptly
in the vicinity of the beach ; but, as seen from the
low ground beyond the river, it appears to stand on
a long ridge, whose northern end is crowned with a
battery. The site of the castle is a small table-
land, projecting between the two towns, nearly op-
posite the mouth of the river, and commanding a
panoramic view. The streets, though irregularly
edificed, are generally straight and of pretty good
appearance. High Street, Castle Road, and a street
in the sea-towu terminating at the batteiy, form a
continuous line from south to north of upwards of
half-a-mile in length. Many old houses have been
replaced by new ones during the last forty years';
and now scarcely a building exists to indicate that
the town is not entirely modern.
The town-house, built about the end of last cen-
tury, is a very large plain structure, forming two
sides of a square, with a spife of much older date,
of graceful proportions, and 100 feet high, rising
from the external angle. The prison is a massive
and strong edifice, but has not sufficient accommoda-
tion. The parish church is a plain structure, but
occupies a conspicuous situation at the south side
of the town, and has an unfinished spire. The
Episcopalian chapel is a very handsome though small
building in the Gothic style. The market-place
was laid out in 1830, and is very commodious. The
other public buildings, such as the dissenting meet-
ing-houses, the trades hall, and a good suite of pub-
lic baths, do not challenge particular notice ; but a
few of the largest private houses are ornaments to
the town.
There was in Banff a large monastery of the Car-
melites, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and supposed
to have been founded in the reign of Malcolm IV.,
or even in that of Malcolm Canmore. Large ves-
tiges of it were in existence in the latter part of
last century, but are now completely effaced. Part
of it probably was incorporated with a residence of
the Lords Banff, which was sometimes styled a
palace in consequence of having been the temporary
abode of certain of the Scottish kings, and which
was demolished in 1640 by General Monro. The
property of the monastery was variously disposed
of at the Reformation, but eventually came all into
the possession of the Earl of Fife. A chapel, called
the Chapel of the Holy Rood, is supposed to have
stood on the Rose Crag, toward the present northern
extremity of the Castle grounds ; and the lands on
which the sea-town now stands belonged to this
chapel. There were also, in the Roman Catholic
times, either chapels or other structures dedicated
to St. Thomas, St. Ninian, and St. Catherine. The
Knights Templars, likewise, had property in the
town, distinguished by their usual mark of an iron
cross ; and probably they had an hospital at a place
a short distance from the town which still bears the
name of Spittal mire.
A castle or citadel — of the character of a consta-
bulary, where the king lodged when visiting this
part of his dominions, and where a constable, thane,
or sheriff administered justice in his absence — ex-
isted in Banff coevally with the Carmelite monastery.
Malcolm IV. probably resided in it in 1160, while
engaged in exterminating the ancient inhabitants
of Moray ; and some of his charters are dated from
Banff. The lands of Blairshinnoch were bestowed
by David Bruce in 1364, for furnishing a soldier to
attend the king in his court ajrud centrum de Banffe.
The thanes of the castle for a long time held their
office only during the King's pleasure ; but on the
marriage of James Stuart, Earl of Buchan, and bro-
ther of James II., to Margaret Ogilvie of Auchter-
house, he was made hereditary thane, receiving the
castle and its appanages as a messuage of his earl-
dom. Pecuniary embarrassments caused the Buchan
family to sell it to Robert Sharp, sheriff-clerk of
Banff, elder brother of the famous Archbishop Sharp.
The archbishop was born in Banff in 1613; and
after his murder in 1679, the castle passed succes-
sively to his brother, Sir William Sharp of Stony-
hill, to Leslie of Kininvie, and to the Earl of Find-
later. The last of these obtained it by purchase in
1683, and transformed it into a pleasant residence,
in the modern style. The Earl of Seafield, the lineal
heir of the Earl of Findlater, and the descendant of
the family of Auchterhouse, who held the castle
under the crown prior to its being made the property
of the Earl of Buchan, is now the proprietor. All
that now remains of the ancient structure is a part
of the outer waU and of the ditch. The present
building has the appearance simply of a plain mo-
dem edifice with wings. The house in which
Archbishop Sharp was born was pulled down about
the year 1816.
Banff possesses more importance as a county
town and as a pleasant residence than as a place of
trade. Its only noticeable manufactories are a
brewery, a foundry, and a small rope and sail work.
There is also a distillery at Mill of Banff, about a
mile from the town. A weekly market is held on
Friday; and fairs are held on the 7th of January,
on the first Tuesday of February, old style, on the
Tuesday after the 26th of May, or on the 26th itself
if that day be a Tuesday, on the first Friday of
August, old style, and on the Friday before the 22d
of November. But only the one in May, which is
BANFF.
127
BANFF.
called Brandon fair, is of any magnitude; _ and
those of Lammas and Martinmas are simply hiring:
fairs. Tliore are no cattle markets. The chief
inns are the Fife Arms and the Royal Oak. One
railway goes hence to the south, another goes to
the west, and the Forth and Moray frith steamers
call. Banff has offices of the Commercial Bank, the
National Bank, the Union Bank, the City of Glas-
gow Bank, the Aherdeen Town and County Bank,
and the North of Scotland Bank. It has also a
savings' bank, a reading-room, a scientific institu-
tion, and a literary society. A newspaper called the
Banffshire Journal is published every Tuesday.
The port of Banff includes the creeks of Macduff,
Fraserburgh, Gardenstown, Portsoy, Port-Gordon,
and Garmouth. It lias also a bonding 'warehouse
and yard. Yet Banff itself makes but a small
figure in matters of shipping. Its harbour, which
is situated to the north of it, at the side of the mouth
of the Deveron, is often impeded by the shifting of
the river's hanks and shoals, and is neither commo-
dious nor good. About £18,000 were spent in im-
provements on it in 1816; and a vessel drawing 12
feet can enter at ordinary high water. Macduff,
which is situated on the opposite side, and which is
included in the parliamentary boundaries of Banff,
has a much better harbour, and may be regarded as
the chief seat of the sea-ward trade of this district.
The number of vessels belonging to the port of
Banff in 1834 was 07, of aggregately 4,301 tons; and
the number in 1864 was 115, of agrgregately 12,891
tons. The amount of custom's duty collected at
the port in 1835 was £1,112; and in 1863, £3,338.
The Deveron salmon-fishings are rented at about
£1,800, and the fish caught at them are principally
sent to the London market. In 1831, 1,759 barrels
of herrings were cured here; in 1863,20,639 bar-
rels. These are exported to London, Ireland, and
Germany. Live cattle and grain are also exported
to London.
Banff was a part of the ancient thanedom of Boin
or Boyne, whence the name seems to be derived.
In some old charters it is spelled Boineffe and
Baineffe. The district of Boyne has probably re-
ceived its name from a conspicuous mountain in the
neighbourhood of Cullen, called the Binn. On the
south side of this hill, at Darbrich, the forester had
his dwelling; and it is well known that the forestry
and thanedom territory extended thence to the
borough-lands of Banff', divided only by the water
of Boyndie. Tradition has assigned a very early
origin to Banff as a royal burgh. In 1165, William
the Lion gave a toft and garden in this burgh to
the Bishop of Moray ; and Robert I. confirmed its
privileges. But the earliest charter extant is one
of Robert II., dated October 7, 1372; and the go-
verning charter is one of James VI., dated May 9,
1581, which was renewed when that sovereign at-
tained the age of 25. The town was formerly
governed by a provost, 4 baillies, and 12 council-
lors. It is now governed by a provost, 4 magis-
trates, and 17 councillors. Municipal constituency,
in 1838, 133; in 1865, 140. The territory over
which the jurisdiction of the borough is exercised
extends from the burn-mouth of Boyndie, across
the Gallowhill, to the Spittal Mire, and thence to
the sea at Palmer cove. The magistrates used to
claim the right of patronage over the parish church,
but have never shown a title to it. They have five
mortifications under their management, viz.: 1st,
Cassie's bounty, cons:sting of £10,000, the interest
of which is half-yearly distributed among indigent
persons. 2d, Smith's bounty, which is also a sum
of £10,000, yielding an yearly dividend of £308 18s.
8d. The objects of this charity are, first, to pay
£25 of additional stipend to the minister of Fordyce;
and, secondly, to apply the remainder to the main-
tenance and education during five years, of boys of
the name of Smith, at an yearly allowance of £25
for each. The academy for this purpose is at For-
dyce, and the teacher has a salary of £40, with a
free house, a garden, and about 10 acres of ground.
3d., Perrie's free school, being a mortification of
£1,100 for educating poor children, and from which
a salary of £40 is paid to a schoolmaster, who has
also a "free house and garden, and from 80 to 90
pupils. 4th, Wilson's charity, consisting of a sum
of between £5,000 and £6,000. 5th, Smith's morti-
fication, being a sum of £1,000. There are in
Banff six incorporated trades. No one can cany on
business as a merchant without becoming a guild-
brother. The property of the burgh consists of
lands and houses, salmon-fishings, feu-duties, pub-
lie buildings, and markets. The value of the lands,
in 1833, was £2,014 10s. The revenue of the
burgh, in 1833, was £1,304; expenditure £1,336.
In 1863-64, the revenue was about £1,110. The
total estimated value of the burgh property in 1834
was £22,961. The total amount of debts in 1833
was £14,298. Assessed property in 1864-5, £8,660.
In 1763, the debt was only £20; although so early
as 1470, the burgh was under embarrassments. At
that time it was held by the public functionaries
that they had no power to increase their revenues,
except by leasing their property. The magistrates,
therefore, without fraud, and upon their " great aith,
with consent of all and sundry neighbours of Banff,"
let out to certain burgesses, for 19 years, the whole
salmon fishings, consisting of 12 nets, for the " in-
fefting and foundation makkin of a perpetual chap-
lenary, to sing in the peil heife * of the burgh, for
our sovereign lord the King and Queen, their prede-
cessors and successors, — for all Christians soules, —
for the theiking of the kirk with sclate, and the
bigging of the tolbuthe, — and for crahat the burgh
has not substance." It is believed that similar
leases were granted until 1581, when there was
obtained the charter, formerly referred to, giving
power to feu to the resident burgesses and their
heirs male. In 1595 the provost, bailies, and cer-
tain other persons, were appointed commissioners
to carry the power into execution. The instructions
to them bear that, "because of the warres and
troubles, the darth of the country and scantiness of
victual, with exorbitant stents and taxations for
supporting the warres, the public warkes, and up-
hading of the kirk, tolbuthe, and calsies, &c. ; for
remeid whereof, this empowers to set, sell, and few
the common land and salmon fishings of the burgh
to merchant burgers and actual residenters." By
virtue of these powers these commissioners did
alienate, for a small feu-duty, the greater part of
the burgal-lands and salmon-fishings. The limita-
tion in the charter, that the alienations should be
made only to resident burgesses, and their heirs
male, either never had been in observance, or
quickly fell into disuse. Nor does the forfeiture
emerging if a burgess should alienate to other than
to a resident burgess, appear to have been operative.
The greater part of the property was acquired by
neighbouring proprietors, including the families
of Fife, Findlater, and Banff. The last alienation
of any importance, which has been traced, was in
1783, when the provost purchased about 20 acres of
the burgh-lands, for 20 years' purchase of a feu-duty
of Is. 6d. per acre. It constitutes a wholesome fea
ture in the municipal arrangements of Banff that
* Tlie Pool haven, where formerly boats and small craft wane
moored. It is now the burying-ground.
BANEFSHIKE.
128
BANFFSHIEE.
the cess and other public burdens and taxations are
levied annually by a Head court — as it is called —
consisting of all the heritors and burgesses -within
burgh. — Banff unites with Elgin, Cullen, Inverury,
Peterhead, and Kintore in returning a member to
parliament. The parliamentary constituency, in
1861 was 223. The parliamentary burgh bounda-
ries extend from the Little Tumbler rocks on the
shore to the westward of Banff, and the mineral
well of Tarlair to the eastward of Portsoy, so as to
include the town of Macduff.
The only noticeable historical matters in con-
nexion with Banff previous to the 17th century are
those already mentioned, which relate to its castle.
In 1644, the lairds of Gight, Newton, and Ardlogie,
with a party of 40 horse, and musketeers, all, in the
language of Spalcling, " brave gentlemen," made a
raid upon the good town of Banff, and plundered it
of buff-coats, pikes, swords, carabines, pistols, " yea,
and money also," grievously amercing the bailies,
and compelling them to subscribe a renunciation of
the Covenant. In 1645, Montrose, following the
example so recently set him by his adherents,
marched into Banff, plundered the same " pitifully,"
carried off all goods and gear on which he could
lay his hands, burnt some worthless houses, and
left " no man on the street but what was strip-
ped naked to his skin!" — On the 7th of Novem-
ber, 1700, the famous James Macpherson, with
some associates, was brought to trial before the
Sheriff of Banff, and being found guilty " by ane
verdict of ane assyse, to be knaive, holden and
repute, to be Egiptians and vagabonds, and op-
pressors of his majesty's free lieges in ane bangstrie
manner," were condemned to be executed on Friday
the 16th of the same month of November. The
sentence was carried into execution against Mac-
pherson only. He was a celebrated violin player,
and, it is affirmed, performed at the foot of the
gallows, on his favourite instrument, the rant which
bears his name, besides reciting several rude stanzas
by way of a last speech and confession. — On the
10th of November, 1746, the Duke of Cumberland's
troops passed through Banff on their way to Cul-
Ioden, and signalized themselves by destroying the
Episcopal chapel, and hanging a poor countryman
whom they suspected of being a spy. In 1759, a
French vessel of war appearing off the coast threw
the worthy burghers into no small consternation,
and suggested the expediency of erecting a battery
for the future protection of the harbour. In 1768,
1799, 1829, and 1835, some of the streets of the
town were flooded to the depth of five or six feet
by inundations of the Deveron, so that the inhabi-
tants had to be rescued from their houses by boats.
In the first of these years the bridge at the town
was swept away; and in 1829 the present veiy sub-
stantial and splendid bridge was in great danger,
and some of the adjacent grounds of Duff-House
Park were under water to the depth of fourteen feet.
Banff gave the title of Baron to a branch of the
family of Ogilvie. The peerage was created in
1642; and it became dormant at the death of the
eighth lord in 1803. It is claimed by Sir William
Ogilvie, of Carnoustie, Bart.
BANFF-HILL. See Alytfx.
BANFFSHIRE, one of the north-east counties of
Scotland; bounded on the north by the Moray frith
or the German ocean; on the east and south by
iberdeenshire; and on the west by the shires of
Inverness and Elgin. This county according to
Mr. Souter in his ' Agricultural Survey of Banff-
shire,' published in 1812, might be comprehended in
an isosceles triangle, on a base of 30 miles along
the coast from Troup-head, on the border of Aber-
deenshire, to the influx of the Spey, on the confines
of Moray ; its height being 64 miles inland from the
shore. Measxvred on the latest and most accurate
maps, the distance in a direct line between the two
extreme points on the coast, is 34 miles; and from
Troup, in a direct line running south-west to Ben
Macdhu, or to Cairngorm, both in the south-west
comer of the county, at the head of Glen-Aven, 67
miles. At the average distance of 12 miles from
the coast, however, it is contracted by the county
of Aberdeen on the east, and by part of Moray on
the west, in the parish of Keith, to a breadth of
only 4 miles; so that, in its general form, it has
been thought to bear some resemblance to an hour-
glass. Making the proper deduction on this ac-
count, its surface is, according to Mr. Souter, 622
square miles, or 315,600 acres Scots computation.
By another admeasurement its superficies is esti-
mated at 686 square miles, or 439,219 English acres.
The course of the Deveron, in general, is accounted
the boundary of Banffshire with Aberdeenshire ; yet
the parish of Gamrie, on the coast, and part of the
parish of Inverkeithnie, in the interior, are on the
Aberdeenshire side of that river; while the greater
part of the parishes of Caimey, Glass, and Cabrach.
politically in the county of Aberdeen, are on the
Banffshire side. Kirkmichael, the most upland dis-
trict of the county, is bounded by the mountains
which rise on the southern sides of Glenbucket and
Strathdon. Similar to the Deveron on the east, the
river Spey may, with little impropriety, be deemed
the general boundary on the west; although the
county of Moray also extends in various places
across that river into the parishes of Bellie, Keith,
Boharm, and Inveraven.
Banffshire comprehends the coast districts of
Boyne and Enzie, — the former extending from Banff
to Cullen, and the latter from Cullen to the Spey;
the inland districts of Strathdeveron, Strathisla,
Balveny, and Strathaven; and part of the great
districts of Buchan and Moray. The parish of St.
Fergus, part of Old Deer, half of Gartly, and the
estate of Straloch in New Machar, appertain to the
county of Banff, although in distant and uncon-
nected quarters of Aberdeenshire. These detached
pertinents, in what relates to civil justice, are, by a
particular provision of the legislature, under the
jurisdiction of the sheriff of Aberdeen.
A grand group of mountains round the point
where the counties of Banff, Inverness, and Aber-
deen meet, and composed of Cairngorm, Ben Buinac,
Ben Macdhu, and Ben Aven, all surrounding Loch
Aven, belongs to the Northern Grampians, and
forms the highest land in Great Britain. Of these
Ben Macdhu, on the south side of Loch Aven, iii
N. lat. 57° 6', and W. long. 3° 37', is in Aberdeen-
shire, and its altitude, according to a recent ad-
measurement, is 4,390 feet, being 17 feet higher
than Ben Nevis. Cairngorm, which is common to
Inverness-shire and Banffshire, has an elevation of
4,095 feet, and Ben Aven, common to Aberdeenshire
and Banffshire, has an elevation of 3,967 feet.
Among the detached summits of the Grampians
which entirely belong to Banffshire, are Benrinnes,
2,747 feet high, and 15 miles south-west by south
of Keith, Corryhabies, 2,558 feet high, and situated
south-east of Benrinnes, and Knoekhill, 2,500 feet
high and 12 miles south-west of Banff. — The princi-
pal rivers of Banffshire are the Spey, the Deveron,
the Aven, the Fiddich, the Livet, and the Isla; and
the principal lakes are Loch Aven and Loch Builg.
" From the nature of the soil of Banffshire," says
the first agricultural reporter, " as well as from its
generally exposed situation, and the great height of
many of the mountains, this district is often sul>
IKDEX TO PARISHES
7 Aberlcur 13 donate
2 Atrali M Glass
5 Banff 15 Orange
1 Jielfie 16 Inrerarcn
5 BoluTrm 1J Inrerl ei l/mic
C> 6t>lri['hirie IS Bath
7 Boyndk W Mrlunicluu-I
6 Cabmen 20 Afarnoch
0 Cullen 21 Mordach
10 DcskTora 22 RafJwen
11 Fordyce 25 Rothmriav
12 Torglcn 24 Kolhnie
?.y OnluiuhiR
DrUisb Miles
AJnllarton&C? Loudoi
BANFFSHIRE.
U\)
BANFFSHIRE.
jcoted to all the evils of a cold and rainy climate.
The harvests, which are precarious and often inter-
rupted, arc rarely completed before the end of Oc-
tober. The crops in the more upland parts of the
county, are for the most part damaged by rains,
which about that season often set in for weeks to-
gether, and are frequently succeeded, without any
interval of good weather, by frosts and deep falls of
snow, which often suspend the operations of hus-
bandry for many of the winter-months." In the
years 1782 and 1787, the harvest was scarcely com-
pleted in less than three months; and in some parts
of the interior, the crop lay uncut during the whole
winter. It is, however, a curious fact, that in 17S2
the parish of Kathven, in the Enzie, had the good
fortune to escape the general calamity: scarcely
had they ever a better crop, or more grain to spare."
The whole of Banffshire, except the tract along
the sea-shore, may be described as a hilly moun-
tainous country, interspersed with fertile valleys
well adapted to the cultivation of corn and grass.
The lulls, either covered with heath or moss, afford
little pasture; while from their bleak and barren
aspect, they have a very gloomy and unpleasant
appearance. The arable land — which bears but a
small proportion to the waste — lies on the sides and
towards the bottoms of the higher hills, or on the
sides of those valleys through which the waters
have their courses. In several of these valleys,
where cultivation has hitherto been found impracti-
cable, there is abundance of fine healthy pasture,
on which young cattle are raised to great advantage,
the grounds being in general well-sheltered with
natural woods. Taking a general view of the whole
district, the arable soil may be described as of three
qualities. That of the plains on the banks of the
waters, where it has not been mixed with the sand
by the washings of the streams, is a stiff deep
clay ; on the sides of the valleys it is a deep black
loam on a bed of rock, generally limestone ; on the
sides of the hills, and in the higher parts of the
country, where cultivation has taken place, the soil
is either of the same quality as that last described,
or a mixture of moss and gravel on a red tilly bot-
tom, and — as may be supposed — very retentive of
water. Along the whole coast, consisting of the
parishes of Gamrie, Banff, Boyndie, Fordyce, Cullen,
Kathven, and Bellie, the soil consists for the greater
part of sand and loam, the latter by far the more
predominant; and in general lies upon a freer bot-
tom. The aggregate rental of the comity, presum-
ing that the average rent of the arable acre did not,
on the whole, exceed £1, limited the number of
arable Scots acres, in 1811, to 80,000; thus leaving
an amount of uncultivated surface equal to 236,000
acres. The quantity of arable land now, however,
greatly exceeds that in 1811. It is probable that
at least 120,000 Scots acres are now under cultiva-
tion, and that not above 80,000 are incapable of
improvement.
In a general view the county of Banff may be de-
nominated a land of limestone, which, although it is
not found in one continuous bed, over any extensive
tract in the county, yet may be easily traced in almost
every quarter of it. This rock is extended through
the district of Strathspey, where the counties of In-
verness and Moray meet with Banff; and being also
found in Badenoch, farther up the course of the
Spey, may perhaps extend onwards even to the
western shore. It may be also traced southwards
through the higher district of the county of Aber-
deen, in the adjoining parishes of Cabrach, Glen-
bucket, Auchindoir, and Tullynessle. At Portsoy
it passes into marble, or serpentine, which composes
almost entirely the hill of Durn. Marble is also
found in the parishes of Keith and Mortlach. When
first quarried at Portsoy, it was exported to France,
where, for some time, it became fashionable; but
the market being overstocked, a ship-load of it long
lay neglected on the banks of the Seine. It is still
wrought into monuments, chimney-pieces, and toys.
In the Enzie district the calcareous matter, probably
from a tinge of iron-ore, is in the form of stone marl,
of a dark red colour. In the upper extremity of the
county, in the parishes of Kirkmichacl and Inver-
aven, there are extensive beds of pure white marl.
In Kirkmichacl it appears in a white cliff, 40 or 50
feet high, on the bank of the Aven. Except the
red stone of the Enzie already mentioned, there is
no freestone in this county; but it is in general well
furnished with stone for building. Slate is found
near Letterforie, in the parish of Kathven; near
the Boat-of-Bridge, in the parish of Boharm; and
in several other places. Flints have been found
along the shore of Boyndie bay. " Some years ago,"
says Professor Jamieson, " while examining the
geognosy of the vicinity of Peterhead, our attention
was directed to the chalk-flints found in that neigh-
bourhood, by previous information. We traced them
extending over several miles of country, and fre-
quently imbedded in a reddish clay, resting on the
granite of the district. These flints contain sponges,
alcyonia, echini, and other fossils of the chalk-flint,
thus proving them to belong to the chalk formation,
which itself will probably be found in some of the
hollows in this part of Scotland." In the course of
the Fiddich a laminated marble is found which may
he formed into whetstones and hones. Scotch to
pazes, or what are commonly called Cairngorm
stones, are found in the mountains in the south-
western extremity of Banffshire, bordering with
those in Aberdeen and Inverness-shires; and also
on several other adjoining mountains, in the forest
of Mar. The stones are found near the top of these
mountains.
It does not appear, that previous to the year
1748, any material inprovements in agriculture were
introduced into this district. In those days the
mode of management was the same here as was
then universally practised over all the north ol
Scotland. The arable lands on every farm were
divided into what was called outfield and infisld. To
the infield — which consisted of that part of the farm
nearest to the farm-houses — the whole manure was
regularly applied. The only crops cultivated on the
infield land were oats, beer, and pease ; the lands
were kept under tillage as long as they would pro-
duce two or three returns of the seed sown; and
when a field became so reduced and so full of weeds
as not to yield this return, it was allowed to lie in
natural pasture for a few years, after which, it was
again brought under cultivation, and treated in the
manner before mentioned. The outfield lands were
wasted by a succession of oats after oats as long as
the crops would pay for seed and labour ; they were
then allowed to remain in a state of absolute steril-
ity, producing little else than thistles and other
weeds; till, after having rested in this state for
some years, the farmer thought proper to bring
them again under cultivation, when, from the mode
of management before described, a few scanty crops
were obtained. About this time, it was a common
practice for the farmers to lime their outfield-ground
substantially after this kind of rest, and then to
crop it as long as it would bear, oats after oats,
without any intermission. Only oxen ploughs were
used; and when the seed-time was over, the cattle
were either sold to dealers, or sent to the high lands,
where they were grazed for three or four months at
the rate of Is. or Is. 6d. each. During this period
BANFFSHIRE.
130
BANFFSHERE.
the plough was laid aside, and the farm-servants and
horses were employed in providing the necessary
stock of fuel, and collecting earth to be mixed with
the dung produced by the cattle during the preceding
winter. About the year 1754, the Earl of Findlater,
then Lord Deskford, came to reside in the neighbour-
hood of Banff; and having taken one of his farms into
his own possession, set about cultivating it in the
most approved manner then known in England ; and,
for that purpose, engaged three experienced over-
seers from that kingdom. His lordship also selected
some of the most intelligent, active, and substantial
tenants in the country, to whom he granted leases
on reasonable terms, for twice nineteen years, and a
lifetime, of farms formerly occupied by three or four
tenants. By these leases each tenant became bound
to enclose and subdivide a certain portion of his farm
with stone-fences, or ditch and hedge, during the first
nineteen years of the lease, and, in the course of the
second nineteen years, to enclose the remainder.
They were also bound to summer fallow and sow
grass-seeds, on a certain number of acres within the
first five years of the lease. His lordship was also
the first that introduced the turnip-husbandry, and
by his example, as well as precept, during his fre-
quent excursions among his tenants, was the means
of bringing the cultivation of that crop, as well as
other green crops, by degrees, into general practice
Agriculture is now conducted on the best principles
in Banffshire. A regular rotation of cropping is
followed; wheat is extensively grown in the lower
districts; and the cattle and stock are of the most
approved breeds.
The lowest denomination of land in Banffshire is
the fall, consisting of 36 square yards. Previous
to the equalization of weights and measures, the
firlot contained 31 pints, each 6 per cent, above
the standard. A quarter of grain by the Banffshire
old wheat-firlot is nearly 3 pecks more than a quar
ter by the Winchester bushel. The boll of barley
was 17 stones, or 17J stones; and of potatoes, 36
stones. The potato-peck was 32 lbs. Four gills,
or two English pints, make a Banffshire choppin;
and two Banffshire pints are about one-tenth part
less than an English gallon. Wool was sold in
market by the Banffshire pound, which was eight
ounces more than the English pound. Butter,
cheese, and hay, were also sold by the same pound
weight of 24 ounces; but meal and butcher's meat
were sold by a pound which was only one and a half
ounce more than the English pound. In the higher
part of the district, about Keith, a stone of wool
was two pounds more than about the town of Banff
and along the coast.
The principal productions of this county are cattle,
corn, and fish. The cattle are bought up by the
dealers, from the 1st of May to the end of Novem-
ber, and sent off in droves to the southern district.
The corn and fish are exported by sea. There were
55,000 quarters of grain exported for the London
market from this county in 1831. There are in this
county ten fishing-towns, which in 1863 employed
1,004 boats. The fish which visit the shores are cod,
ling, haddock, skate, whitings, holybut, dog-fish, and
occasionally turbot and mackerel. The value of
the fishing-boats, nets, and lines used in 1863 was
£91,461. The salmon-fishery on the Spey, for
the distance of 8 miles from the mouth of the river,
has been acquired by the family of Gordon ; and as
the fishing-quarters are now established on the Banff-
shire side of the river, the whole of the Dulse of
Richmond's salmon-fishery, now let at the yearly rent
of £8,000, may be stated as among the produce of
this county. The salmon-fishing on the Deveron,
of which the Earl of Fife is the principal proprietor,
his right extending from the sea about 3J miles up
the river, is now let at a yearly rent of about £2,000
sterling. There are from 160 to 190 men usually
employed by the tacksmen of these fishings in the
different departments of the work. The staple
manufactures of this county are those of linen-yarn
and linen-cloth, which at one time were carried on
to a very considerable extent at Banff, Cullen, Keith,
and Portsoy, and gave employment to a great num-
ber of men and women in the different operations of
heckling, spinning, weaving, and bleaching. There
were likewise at Banff and Portsoy very extensive
manufactures of stocking-threads, which were chiefly
sent to Nottingham and Leicester. There are several
tan-works and some extensive distilleries in the
county.
The roads and other communications in the low-
lands of Banffshire are numerous and very con-
venient ; but those in the uplands are scanty. The
two principal roads through it are the two roads
from Aberdeen to Inverness, by way respectively of
Banff and Huntly, the former across the broadest
part of the county along the coast, and the latter
across the narrowest part at Keith. The railways
are a line southward from Banff to Turriff and Aber-
deen ; a line south-westward from Banff to Keith ;
a branch from this to Portsoy ; and the Aberdeen
and Inverness line, past Keith, along Strathisla.
The towns and principal villages are Banff, Keith,
Fife-Keith, Buckie, Cullen, Dufftown, Tomintoul,
Charlestown,Whitehills, Fetterangus, Gardenstown,
Macduff, Aherchirder, and Findochty. The princi-
pal mansions are Gordon Castle, the Duke of Rich-
mond; Duff House, Balveny Castle, Kothiemay,
Auchintoul, and Mount-Coffer House, the Earl of
Fife ; Cullen House, the Earl of Seafield ; Forglen
and Birkenbog, Sir George S. Abercrombie, Bart.;
Letterfourie, Sir Robert Gordon, Bart.; Edingight
House, Sir James Milne Lines, Bart.; Glenbarry
House, William J. Tayler; Mayen House, William
Duff, Esq.; Park House, L. Duff Gordon-Duff, Esq.;
Auchlunkart House, A. Steuart, Esq.; and Cairn-
field House, John Gordon, Esq.
There are 25 parishes in Banffshire; and 8 of
these are in the presbytery of Strathbogie, 8 in the
presbytery of Fordyce, and 9 in four other presby-
teries,— 12 in the synod of Moray and 13 in the
synod of Aberdeen. There are also 6 chapels of
ease, — all in the coast districts, and 4 of them in
the presbytery of Fordyce. There are in Banffshire,
in connexion with the Free church of Scotland, 23
churches and 1 preaching-station, classified in the
same way as the parishes of the Establishment; in
connexion with the United Presbyterian Synod, 8
churches constituting chiefly its presbytery of Banff-
shire; in connexion with the Congregational Union
of Scotland, 3 churches; in connexion with the Scot-
tish Episcopal church, 3 chapels in its diocese of
Aberdeen and 2 in its diocese of Moray ; and in con-
nexion with the Roman Catholic body 8 chapels.
In 1837, there were 25 parochial schools, attended
by 1,238 scholars, 80 private schools attended by
2,932 scholars, and 31 other private schools, the at-
tendance at which was not reported.
The sheriff court for Banffshire is held at Banff
every Wednesday for ordinary business, and Thurs-
day for proofs, during session; and there are three
sessions. The first begins on 15th January, or first
ordinary court day thereafter, and continues till 15th
March ; the second begins on 3d or 4th April, and
continues till 3ist July; the third begins on 1st
October, and continues till 15th December. Small
debt courts are held at Banff on every Tuesday dur-
ing session, and on the first Tuesday of every month
in vacation ; at Buckie, on the Tuesday before the
BANFFSHIRE RAILWAY. 131
BANNOCKBURN.
second Thursday of January, April, July, and Oc-
tober ; at Keith, on the Wednesday before the second
Thursday of each of the samo months; at Dufftown,
on the second Thursday of each of the same months;
and at Tomintoul, on the Friday after the second
Thursday of April and October. The valued rent of
the county in 1G74 was £79,200 Scots; and the pre-
sent real rental is about £180,000 sterling. The
annual value of assessed property in 1815 was
£88,942 ; and in 1865, £182,885. The assessment
in 1864-5, for police was lid., and for rogue-money
and prisons, Ad. per pound. The parliamentary
constituency in 1865 was 1,062. Population in 1801,
37,216; in "1811, 38,433; in 1821,43,663; in 1831,
48,337; in 1841, 49,679; in 1861, 56,020. Inhabit-
ed houses in 1861, 10,452; uninhabited, 305; build-
ing, S7. The number of families in 1831 was 10,855;
and of these 4,264 were engaged in agriculture, and
2,456 in trade, handicraft, and manufacture. The
average yearly number of crimes was 24 in 1836-40,
16 in 1846-50, and 23 in 1S56-60. The number of
prisoners in Banff jail during the year July 1862 —
June 1863 was 95. The number of registered poor
in 1862-63 was 1,913, and of casual poor, 371 ; and
the expenditure for the former was £12,689, and for
the latter, £329.
BANFFSHIRE RAILWAY. A project was
formed in 1 845 to construct a railway from Dufftown,
near the Richmond and Teninver lime- works, along
the valley of the Isla, past Keith and Fife-Keith,
through Bogbain, within about 1$ mile of Fochabers,
and about one mile east of Gordon Castle, round the
hill of Fochabers, on to Port Gordon. Total distance,
about 21 miles; estimated expense, £120,000. An-
other project contemplated an extension of the rail-
way, 10 miles, from Dufftown to Achbreck, where
the Duke of Richmond proposed to erect a village
and smelting furnaces. The actual Banffshire rail-
way is a line of 16J miles from a junction at Grange
to Banff harbour, with a branch of 3|miles to Portsoy.
This was opened in 1859; and an extension of it to
Port-Gordon, 14J miles, was authorized in 1863.
BANGOUR, an estate in the parish of Uphall, in
Linlithgowshire, which has been for many genera-
tions the residence of a branch of the Hami'ltons, one
of whom, William, second son of James Hamilton of
Bangour, holds an honourable name in Scottish song.
He was born in 1704. He engaged in the Rebellion
of 1745, and celebrated the victory won by Charles's
arms on the 21st September, 1745, by an 'Ode on
the Battle of Gladsmuir.' His poems were collected
and published in 1748, and again in 1760. They
are inserted in the 9th volume of Anderson's 'Bri-
tish Poets,' and in the 15th of Chalmers's 'English
Poets.' His finest effusion is the exquisite ballad,
' The Braes of Yarrow,' founded on an ancient ballad
called ' The Dowie dens of Yarrow,'
BANKEND, a village with a post-office, on the
right bank of Lochar Water, and on the eastern
border of the parish of Caerlaverock, 2 miles east of
Glencaple, Dumfries-shire. Population, 189.
BANKEND, a hamlet in the parish of Kirkgun-
zeon, contiguous to the village of Kirkgunzeon, Kirk-
cudbrightshire.
BANKFOOT, a village with a post-office, on the
Corral bum, a little above its confluence with the
Garry, in the parish of Auchtergaven, Perthshire.
It is an entirely modem village, built on ground
feued by Mr. Wylie of Airlywight. Here are
two United Presbyterian Meeting-houses ; and in
the vicinity are the parish church and the village of
Cairneyhill. A savings' bank was instituted here
in 1833. A large proportion of the inhabitants are
weavers. Population, 748.
BANKFOOT and GADGIRTH-HOLM, a joint
hamlet in the parish of Coylton, Ayrshire. Popula-
tion, 77.
BANKHEAD, a hamlet in the parish of Monikie,
Forfarshire.
BANKHEAD, a village within the parliamentary
boundary of the burgh of Wick, Caithness-shire.
BANKS, a hamlet in the parish of Mouswald,
Dumfries-shire.
BANKTON, the seat of the gallant Colonel
Gardiner, who fell at the battle of Prestonpans — or
Gladsmuir, as it is sometimes called — in 1745, in the
parish of Prestonpans, and shire of Haddington, 1
mile north west of Tranent. It was afterwards the
seat of Andrew Macdowall, Esq., advocate, who, on
his promotion to the bench, took the title of Lord
Baukton from it.
BANKTON-PARK, a village in the parish of
Kettle, a little north-west of the village of Kettle,
Fifeshire. It is entirely modem. Population in
1851, 136.
BANNATYNE (Poet). See Port-Bannatyne.
BANNAVIE. See Caledonian Canal.
BANNOCK (The), a rivulet of Stirlingshire. It
rises in Loch Coulter, on the south side of the Gillies
hill, and flows in a winding course, between steep
and ragged banks, eastward to Milton, passing to
the south of Greysteal farm-house, where the bank
has a steep southern declivity, and to the south of
Caldam-hill, between which eminence and the town
are two morasses, one on each side of the old Kil-
syth road. At Milton, on the road from St. Ninians
to Glasgow, the Bannock turns towards the north-
east, winding in that direction, through a deep and
ragged valley, to the village of Bannockburn ; and,
after a course of a few miles, it falls into the Forth.
BANNOCKBURN, a village with a post-office in
the parish of St. Ninians, Stirlingshire. It stands
on the road from Stirling to Falkirk, betw en St.
Ninians and Torwood, 2J miles south-east of Stir-
ling, and 9 miles north-west of Falkirk. It has a
station on the Scottish Central railway. It is cut
by the Bannock into two parts, which are known as
Upper and Lower Bannockburn. It is a thriving
seat of industiy, and has greatly increased since the
early part of the present century. A large propor-
tion of the inhabitants are engaged in the manufac-
ture of carpets, tartans, and shawls. Some also are
engaged in a tan-work or in malting ; and others
are colliers. The Bannockburn coal is considered
to be of very excellent quality, a ton of it yielding
11 cwt. of coke. Fairs arelield on the first Tues-
day of June and on the first Tuesday of October.
There are three places of worship, — a Chapel of
Ease, a Free church, and an United Presbyterian
church. The yearly sum raised in connexion with
the Free church in 1865 was £348 3s. lOd. Popu-
lation in 1841, 2,205 ; in 1861, 2,258. Houses, 277.
The famous and decisive battle of Bannockburn
was fought in the neighbourhood of this village, on
Monday, June 24th, 1314 The Scottish army under
the Bruce, and mustering 30,000 disciplined men,
and about half that number of disorderly attendants,
first rendezvoused at the Torwood, between Falkirk
a.nd Stirling. The English army, commanded by
Edward II. in person, and reported to have been in
the proportion of at least three to one to that of
the Scotch, approached from the side of Falkirk,
and encamped on the north of Torwood. The
Scottish army, meanwhile, drew nearer Stirling,
and posted themselves behind the Bannock. They
occupied several small eminences upon the south and
west of the present village of St. Ninians; their line
extendingina north-easterly direction from the brook
of Bannock, on which their right flank rested, to tha
elevated ground above St, Ninians, on which their
BAJSTNOCKBURN.
132
BANNOCKBURN.
extreme left rested. Upon the summit of one of
these eminences, now called Brock's hrae, is a large
granite stone sunk in the earth, with a round hole,
about four inches in diameter, and the same in depth,
in which, according to tradition, Brace's standard was
fixed, and near it the royal pavilion was erected. This
stone is well knownin the neighbourhood by the name
of the Bored stone. Thus the two armies lay facing
each other, at a mile's distance, with the Bannock
running in a narrow valley between them. Stirling
castle was still in the hands of the English. Edward
Brace had, in the preceding spring, besieged it for
several months ; but, finding himself unable to reduce
it, had abandoned the enterprise. By a treaty, how-
ever, between Edward and Philip Moubray the gover-
nor, it had been agreed, that, if the garrison received
no relief from England before St. John the Baptist's
day, they should then surrender to the Scots. Ro-
bert was much dissatisfied with his brother's terms;
but, to save his honour, confirmed the treaty. The
day before the battle, a body of cavalry, to the
number of 880, was detached from the English camp,
under the conduct of Sir Robert Clifford, to the relief
of the castle. These, having marched through low
grounds upon the edge of the carse, had passed the
Scottish army on their left before they were ob-
served. The King himself was among the first to
perceive them; and, desiring his nephew, Randolph,
who commanded the left wing, to turn his eyes
towards the quarter where they were making their
appearance, in the crofts north of St. Ninians, said
to him, angrily, " Thoughtless man ! you have suffer-
ed the enemy to pass. A rose has this day fallen
from your chaplet! " Randolph, feeling the reproof
severely, instantly pursued them with 500 foot ; and
coming up with them in the plain, where the modern
village of Newhouse stands, commenced a sharp
action in sight of both armie's, and of the castle.
Clifford's squadron wheeling round, and placing
their spears in rest, charged the Scots at full speed ;
but Randolph having formed his infantry into a
square with their spears protended on every side,
and resting on the ground, successfully repelled the
first fierce onset, and successive charges equally
desperate. Much valour was displayed on both
sides ; and it was fui some time doubtful who should
obtain the victory. Brace, attended by several of
his officers, beheld this rencounter from a rising
ground supposed to be the round hill immediately
west of St. Ninians, now called Cockshot hill.
Douglas, perceiving the jeopardy of his brave
friend, asked leave to hasten with a reinforcement
to his support. This the king at first refused; but,
upon his afterwards consenting, Douglas put his
soldiers in motion. Perceiving, however, on the
way, that Randolph was on the point of victory, he
stopped short, that they who had long fought so
hard might enjoy undivided glory. The English
were entirely defeated with great slaughter. Among
the slain was William Daynecourt, a knight and
commander of great renown, who had fallen in the
beginning of the action. The loss of the Scots was
very inconsiderable ; some assert that it amounted
only to a single yeoman. Randolph and his com-
pany, covered with dust and glory, returned to the
camp, amidst acclamations of joy. To perpetuate
the memory of the victory, two large stones were
erected in the field — where they are still to be seen
— at the north end of the village of Newhouse,
about a quarter of a mile from the south port of
Stirling. Another incident happened, in the same
day, which contributed greatly to inspirit the Scots
forces. King Robert, according to Barbour, was ill
mounted, carrying a battle-axe, and, on his bassi-
net-helmet, wearing, for distinction, a crown. Thus
externally distinguished, he was riding upon a little
palfrey, in front of his foremost line, regulating
their order; when an English knight, who was
ranked amongst the bravest in Edward's army, Sir
Henry de Bohun, came galloping furiously up to
him, to engage him in single combat; expecting, by
this act of chivalry, to end the contest, and gain
immortal fame. But the enterprising champion,
having missed his blow, was instantly struck dead
by the king, who raising himself in his stirrups, as
his assailant passed, with one blow of his battle-axe
cleft his head in two, shivering the handle of his
own weapon with the violence of the blow. The
Scottish chiefs remonstrated with their king for
having so rashly exposed his precious life. He felt
the justice of their censures at so critical a junc-
ture, but playfully evaded further confession by
affecting to be chiefly concerned for the loss of his
good battle-axe. The incident is thus recorded by
Barbour: —
"And quhen Glosyster and Herfurd war
With thair bataill, appronchand ner,
Befor thaim all thar com rydand,
'With helm on heid, and sper in hand
Schyr Henry the Boune, the "vvorthi,
That wes a wycht knycht, and a hardy;
And to the Erie off Herfurd eusyne*.
Armyt in armys gud and fyne;
Come on a sted, a bow schote ner,
Befor all othyr that thar wer:
And knew the King, for that he saw
Him swa rang his men on raw:
And by the croune, that wes set
Alsua apon his bassynet.
And towart him he went in hy.
And [quhen] the King sua apertly
Saw him cum, forouth all his feris,
In hy till him the hors he steris.
And quhen Schyr Henry saw the Kim*
Cum on, for owtyn abaysing,
Till him he raid in full gret hy.
He thoucht that he suid Weill lychtly
Wyn him, and haf him at his will,
Sen he him horsyt saw sa ill.
Sprent thai samyn in till a ling
Schyr Henry myssit the noble king.
And he, that in his sterapys stud,
With the ax that wes hard and gud,
With sa gret mayne raucht him a dynt.
That nothyr hat, na helm, mycht stynt
The hewy dusche that he him gave,
That ner the heid till the harnys clave.
The hand ax schaft fruschit in twa ;
And he doune to the erd gan ga
All flatlynys, for him faillyt mycht.
This was the fryst strak off the fycht"
The heroic achievement performed by their King
before their eyes, raised the spirits of the Scots to
the highest pitch.
The day was now far spent, and as Edward did
not seem inclined to press a general engagement,
but had drawn off to the low grounds to the right
and rear of his original position, the Scots army
passed the night in arms upon the field. Next
morning, being Monday, the 24th of June, all was
early in motion on both sides. Religious senti-
ments in the Scots were mingled with military
ardour. A solemn mass was pronounced by Mau-
rice, abbot of Inchaffray ; who also administered the
sacrament to the king, and the great officers about
him, while inferior priests did the same to the rest
of the army. Then, after a sober repast, they
formed in order of battle, in a tract of ground, now
called Nether Touchadam, which lies along the de-
clivity of a gently rising hill, about a mile due
south from Stirling castle. This situation had been
previously chosen on account of its advantages.
Upon the right, they had a range of steep rocks,
whither the baggage-men had retired, and which,
from this circumstance, has been called Gillie's or
Servant's hill. In their front were the steep banks
of the rivulet of Bannock. Upon the left lay a
BANNOCKBURN.
133
BANNOCKBURN.
moraBS, now culled Milton bog, from its vicinity to
the small village of that name. Much of this bog
is still undrained; and part of it is now a mill-pond.
As it was then the middle of summer, it was almost
quite dry; but Robert had recourse to a stratagem,
to prevent any attack from that quarter. He had,
some time before, ordered numbers of pits to bo
dun- in the morass and the fields on the left, and
covered with green turf supported by stakes, so as to
exhibit the appearance of firm ground. These pits
were a foot in breadth, and from two to three feet
deep, and placed so close together as to resemble
the cells in a honeycomb. It docs not appeal', how-
ever, that the English attempted to charge over
this dangerous ground during the conflict, the great
struggle being made considerably to the right of
this ground. He also made calthorps be scattered
there; some of which have been found in the me-
mory of people yet alive. By these means, added
to the natural strength of the ground, the Scottish
army stood as within au intrciiehment. Barbour,
who lived near those times, mentions a park with
trees, through which the English had to pass, he-
fore they could attack the Scots; and says, that
Robert chose this situation, that, besides other ad-
vantages, the trees might prove an impediment to
the enemy's cavalry. The improvements of agri-
culture, and other accidents, have, in the lapse of
four hundred years, much altered the face of this
as well as other parts of the country: vestiges, how-
ever, of this park still remain, and numerous stumps
of trees are seen all around the field where the
battle was fought. A farm-house, situated almost
in the middle, goes by the name of the Park; and a
mill built upon the south bank of the rivulet, nearly
opposite to where the centre of Robert's army stood,
is known by the name of Park-mill. The Scottish
army was drawn up in four divisions, and their
front extended near a mile in length. The right
wing, which was upon the highest ground, and was
strengthened by a body of cavalry under Keith,
Marschal of Scotland, was commanded by Edward
Bruce, the Icing's brother. The left was posted on
the low grounds, near the morass, under the direc-
tion of Walter, Lord-High-Steward, and Sir James
Douglas, both of whom had that morning been
knighted by their sovereign. Bruce himself took
the command of the reserve, which was drawn up
immediately behind the centre. Along with him
was a body of 500 cavalry well-armed and mounted;
all the rest of the Scottish army were on foot. The
enemy were fast approaching in three great bodies,
led on by the English monarch in person, and by
the Earls of Hereford and Gloucester, who were
ranked among the best generals that England could
then produce. Their centre was formed of infantry,
and the wings of cavalry, many of whom were
armed cap-a-pee. Squadrons of archers were also
planted upon the .wings, and at certain distances
along the front. Edward was attended by two
knights, Sir Giles de Argentine, and Sir Aymer de
Vallance. who rode, according to the phrase of these
days, at his bridle. That monarch, who had ima-
gined that the Scots would never face his formidable
host, was much astonished when he beheld their
order and determined resolution to give him battle.
As he expressed his surprise, Sir Ingram Umfraville
took the opportunity of suggesting a plan likely to
insure a cheap and bloodless victory. He counselled
him to make a feint of retreating with the whole
army, till they had got behind their tents ; and, as
this would tempt the Scots from their ranks for the
sake of plunder, to turn about suddenly, and fall
upon them. The counsel was rejected. Edward
thought there was no need of stratagem to defeat so
small a handful. Among the other occurrences of
this memorable day, historians mention an incident.
As the two armies were on the point of engaging,
the abbot of Inchaffray, barefooted, and with a cru-
cifix in his hand, walked slowly along the Scottish
line; when they all fell down upon their knees in
the act of devotion. The enemy, observing them
in so uncommon a posture, concluded that they
were frightened into submission, and that, by
kneeling, when they should have been ready to
fight, they meant to surrender at discretion, and
only begged their lives. "See!" cried Edward,
" they are kneeling; they crave mercy!" "They
do, my liege," replied Umfraville; "but it is from
God, not from us." " To the charge, then ! " replied
Edward; and Gloucester and Hereford threw them-
selves impetuously upon the right wing of the
Scots, which received them firmty; while Randolph
pressed forward with the centre division of the
Scotch army upon the main body of the English.
They rushed furiously upon the enemy, and met
with a warm reception. The ardour of one of the
Scottish divisions had carried them too far, and
occas'Oned their being sorely galled by a body of
10,000 English archers who attacked them in flank
These, however, were soon dispersed by Sir Robert
Keith, whom the King had despatched with the re-
serve of 500 horse, and who, fetching a circuit
round Milton bog, suddenly charged the left flank
and rear of the English bowmen, who having no
weapons fit to defend themselves against horse,
were instantly thrown into disorder, and chased
from the field: —
LL The Inglis arclieris schot sa fast.
That myclit thair schot haff ony last.
It had baen hard to Scottis men.
Bot King Robert, that wele gan ken
That thair arclieris war peralouss,
And thair schot rycht hard and grewouss,
Ordanyt, forouth "the assemble,
Hys marschell with a gret menye,
Fyve hnndre armyt in to stele.
That on lycht horss war horsyt welle,
For to pryk amang the arclieris:
And swa assaile thaim with thair speris, v
That thai na layser haiff to schute.
This marschell that Ik of mute,
That Schyr Robert of Keyth was cauld,
As Ik befor her has yow tanld,
Qnhen he saw the battaillis sua
Assembill, and to gidder ga.
And saw the arclieris schoyt stoutly:
With all thaim of his cumpany,
In hy apon thaim gan he rid;
And our tuk thaim at a sid;
And rnschyt amang thaim sa rudly,
Stekand thaim sa dispitously,
And in sic fusoun berand doun,
And slayand thaim, for owtyn ransoun ,
That thai thaim scalyt euiriikaile.
And fra that tyme forth thar wes nane
That assemblyt schot to ma.
Qahen Scottis arclieris saw that thai sua
"War rebutyr, thai woux hardy,
And with all thair myclit schot egrely
Amang the horss men, that thar raid;
And woundis wid to thaim thai maid;
And slew of thaim a full gret dele."
Barbour's Bruce, Book ix., v. 2L'S.
A strong body of the enemy's cavalry charged the
right wing, which Edward Brace commanded, with
such irresistible fury, that he had been quite over-
powered, had not Randolph, who appears to have
been then unemployed, hastened to his assistance.
The battle was now at the hottest ; and it was yet
uncertain how the day should go. Brace had
brought up his whole reserve ; but the English
continued to charge with unabated vigour, while
the Scots received them with an inflexible intrepid-
ity ; each individual fighting as if victory depended
on his single arm. An occurrence — which some
BANNOCKBURN.
134
BARBER.
represent as an accidental sally of patriotic enthusi-
asm, others as a premeditated stratagem of Robert's
— suddenly altered the face of affairs, and contri-
buted greatly to victory. Above 15,000 servants
and attendants of the Scottish army, had been or-
dered, before the battle, to retire, with the baggage,
behind the adjoining hill ; but having, during the
engagement, arranged themselves in a martial form,
some on foot, and others mounted on the baggage-
horses, they marched to the top, and displaying,
on long poles, white sheets instead of banners, de-
scended towards the field with hideous shouts.
The English, taking them for a fresh reinforcement
of the foe, were seized with so great a panic that
they gave way in much confusion. Buchanan says,
that the English King was the first that fled ; but
in this contradicts all other historians, who affirm,
that Edward was among the last in the field. Nay,
according to some accounts, he would not be per-
suaded to retire, till Aymer de Vallance, seeing the
day lost, took hold of his bridle, and led him off.
Sir Giles de Argentine, the other knight who waited
on Edward, accompanied him a short way off the
field, till he saw him placed in safety ; he then
wheeled round, and putting himself at the head of a
battalion made a vigorous effort to retrieve the dis-
astrous state of affairs, but was soon overwhelmed
and slain. He was a champion of high renown ;
and, having signalized himself in several battles
with the Saracens, was reckoned the third knight
of his day. The Scots pursued, and made great
havoc among the enemy, especially in passing the
river, where, from the irregularity of the ground,
they could not preserve the smallest order. A mile
from the field of battle, a small bit of ground goes
by the name of Bloody fold ; where, according to
tradition, a party of the English faced about and
made a stand, but, after sustaining a dreadful
slaughter, were forced to continue their flight.
This account corresponds to several histories of the
Earl of Gloucester. Seeing the rout of his country-
men, he made an effort to renew the battle, at the
head of his military tenants, and, after having per-
sonally done much execution, was, with most of his
party, cut to pieces. The Scottish writers make the
enemy's loss, in the battle and pursuit, 50,000, and
their own 4,000. Among the latter, Sir William
Vipont and Sir AValter Boss were the only persons
of distinction. A proportion almost incredible.
The slain on the English side were all decently in-
terred by Brace's order; who, even in the heat of
victory, could not refrain from shedding tears over
several who had been his intimate friends. The
corpse of the Earl of Gloucester was carried that
■light to the church of St. Ninians, where it lay, till,
together with that of Sir Robert Clifford, it was sent
to the English monarch. Twenty-seven English
barons, two hundred knights, and seven hundred
esquires, fell in the field ; the number of prisoners
also was very great ; and amongst them were many
of high rank, who were treated with the utmost
civility. The remains of the vanquished were scat-
tered all over the country. Many ran to the castle ;
and not a few, attempting the Forth, were drowned.
The Earl of Hereford, the surviving general, re-
treated with a large body towards Bothwell, and
threw himself, with a few of the chief officers, into
that castle, which was then garrisoned by the Eng-
lish. Being hard pressed, he surrendered; and
was soon exchanged against Brace's queen and
daughter, and some others of his friends, who had
been captive eight years in England. King Edward
escaped with much difficulty. Retreating from the
field of battle he rode to the castle ; hut was told by
the governor that he eould not long enjoy safety
there, as it could not be defended against the victors.
Taking a compass, to shun the vigilance of the
Scots, he made the best of his way homeward, ac-
companied by fifteen noblemen, and a body of 500
cavalry. He was closely pursued above forty miles
by Sir James Douglas, who, with a party of light
horse, kept upon his rear, and was often very near
him. How hard he was put to, may be guessed
from a vow which he made in his flight, to build
and endow a religious house in Oxford, should it
please God to favour his escape. He was on the
point of being made prisoner, when he was received
into the castle of Dunbar by Gospatrick, Earl of
March, who was in the English interest. Douglas
waited a few days in the neighbourhood, in expec-
tation of his attempting to go home by land. He
escaped, however, by sea in a fisherman's boat.
His stay at Dunbar had been very short. Three
days after the battle, he issued a proclamation from
Berwick, announcing the loss of his seal, and for-
bidding all persons to obey any order proceeding
from it, without some other evidence of that order's
being his. " The riches obtained by the plunder of
the English," says Mr. Tytler, " and the subsequent
ransom paid for the multitude of the prisoners, must
have been very great. Their exact amount cannot
be easily estimated, but some idea of its greatness
may be formed by the tone of deep lamentation
assumed by the Monk of Malmesbury. ' O day of
vengeance and of misfortune ! ' says he, ' day of dis-
grace and perdition ! unworthy to be included in
the circle of the year, which tarnished the fame of
England, and enriched the Scots with the plunder
of the precious stuffs of our nation, to the extent of
two hundred thousand pounds. Alas ! of how many
noble barons, and accomplished knights, and high-
spirited young soldiers, — of what a store of excel-
lent arms, and golden vessels, and costly vestments,
did one short and miserable day deprive us!' Two
hundred thousand pounds of money in those times,
amounts to about six hundred thousand pounds
weight of silver, or nearly three millions of our pre-
sent money. The loss of the Scots in the battle
was incredibly small, and proves how effectually
the Scottish squares had repelled the English cav-
alry."
BANOVIE. See Blalr-Athole.
BANTON, a village in the parish of Kilsyth,_lj
mile north-east of the town of Kilsyth, Stirlingshire
Here are a Chapel of Ease and an endowed school.
The inhabitants are principally miners, colliers, and
sickle-makers. Population, 130.
BAR-, or Bake-, any small tract of ground, whether
inland or insular, which lies higher than the conn-
try around it. The word means a top or summit,
and is used in that sense as a prefix in a few Scot-
tish topographical names.
BARA. See Gabvald.
BARA. See Baeba.
BARACHNIE, a village in the Crossbill district
of the parish of Old Monkland, Lanarkshire. Pop-
ulation, 235.
BARASSIE, a station on the Troon and Kilmar-
nock railway, 7 miles from Ayr and 8 miles from
Kilmarnock, Ayrshire.
BARBARAVILLE, a village in the parish of
Kilmuir-Easter, Ross-shire. Population, 173.
BARBASWALLS, a village in the parish of
Ruthven, Forfarshire.
BARBAUCHLAW. See Luggie (The).
BARBER, a hamlet in the parish of Roseneath,
Dumbartonshire.
BARCALDINE. See Aedchattan.
BARCLOSH. See Kikkgukzeon.
BARDOWIE LOCH. See Bai.dernock.
BARGARRAN.
135
BARR.
BARGARRAN, a locality on the eastern border
of the parish of Erskiue, Renfrewshire, famous for
furnishing the oecasion of one of the last judicial
trials for witchcraft in Scotland. The case is nar-
rated in Amot's ' Collection of Criminal Trials,'
and also in a small duodecimo volume, entitled
' The Witches of Renfrewshire.'
BARGATON LOCH. See Toxgland.
BARGEDDIE, a village in the parish of Old
Monkland, Lanarkshire.
BARHEAD. See Barrhead.
BARHILL. See Barrhili..
BARHOLM. See Kirjoiabreck.
BARJARG, a village and an estate in the parish
of Keir, Dumfries-shire. Population of the village
in 1851, 58. There is an extensive lime-work on
the estate. The limestone has generally a reddish
colour, and contains about 54 per cent, of carbonate
of lime, and 36 per cent, of carbonate of magnesia.
See Keir.
BARLEYSIDE, a village in the parish of Fal-
kirk, Stirlingshire.
BARLOCCO ISLES. See Wigtown Bay.
BARMEKIN. See Echt.
BARMUEE. See Mauchlike.
BARNBOUGLE CASTLE, an ancient seat of
the Moubrays, in the parish of Dalineny, Linlith-
gowshire. In 1620, it passed, by sale, from the
Moubrays ; and it is now the property of the Earl
of Roseberry . Its site is close on the frith of Forth ;
and the sea has, in its encroachments here, com-
pletely washed away the lawn before it, so that it
was long since found necessaiy to erect a bulwark
for the safety of the castle. See Dalmeny.
BARNHILL, a modern village, on the links of
the parish of Monifieth, Forfarshire. Population in
1851, 41.
BARNHILL, a village in the parish of Blantyre,
Lanarkshire. Population, 165.
BARNHILL'S BED. See Minto.
BARNS (East), a village in the parish of Dunbar,
Haddingtonshire ; on the great line of road from
Berwick to Edinburgh, and 2§ miles south-east of
Dunbar. An Antiburgher congregation which used
to assemble here, removed then- place of meeting to
Dunbar in 1820. There is a parochial school here,
endowed with the interest of £150. Population in
1851, 125.
BARNS (West), a village in the same parish, and
on the same line of road, 2 miles west of Dunbar ;
on a small stream called the Biel, which here flows
into Belhaven hay. Here also is a parochial school,
having all the legal endowments, with the maxi-
mum salary. Population, 170.
BARNS OF AYR. Near the end of the 13th
century, during the usurped and military possession
of Scotland by Edward I. of England, there was on
the south-east side of the town of Ayr, an encamp-
ment or temporary barrack of a portion of his forces ;
and this is known in history as the Barns of Ayr.
The surrounding country had been the focus of an
insurrection against the English tyranny; and was
viewed by the creatures and officers of Edward with
wakeful suspicion and malicious dislike. The well-
affected and the ill-disposed were regarded with
nearly the same feelings, — or rather, the former were
either carelessly or sullenly confounded with the
latter ; and all persons of the upper classes, what-
ever might be their partisanship, their discretion, or
their general character, were viewed indiscrimin-
ately as fit subjects to he victimized to the usurper's
policy and bloody despotism. Under pretence of
holding a Justice- Aire, all near the town were sum-
moned to attend; and a number who appeared, in-
cluding Sir Reginald Crawford, Sir Bryce Blair, and
Sir Hugh Montgomerie, were treacherously niada
prisoners and put to death, without even the for-
mality of a trial. Sir William Wallace at the time
was not far off, at the head of one of those small
fleet flying brigades, which so often surprised and
confounded his enemies; and when he heard of the
infamous occurrence, he determined to make a
severe retaliation. Selecting fifty of his choicest
men, and strengthened by a number of the retainers
of the murdered gentlemen, he hastened to the tem-
porary barracks of the English, or Barns of Ayr,
approached them stealthily, and surrounded them at
dead of night, while their inmates were fast asleep
in fancied security and after a deep carousal. He
placed a cordon of men around them to prevent the
possibility of escape, procured combustibles, and set
fire so promptly and furiously to the pitch-covered
thateli of the roofs that the whole erections were
speedily in a blaze. The roused sleepers within
rose and rushed outward, screaming and bonified,
but were everywhere confronted with Scottish
swords, and were either killed in the act of flight or
driven back to die in the flames. No fewer than
about five hundred perished. Wallace, it is said,
went away before the tragedy was completed ; and
when at an elevated spot, about two miles distant,
where vestiges of an old ecclesiastical ruin popu-
larly called Burn-weel Kirk still exist, he looked
back to the blazing scene of his vengeance, and ex-
claimed to his followers, ' The Barns of Ayr burn
weel !' Miss Baillie has made good use of this stoiy
in her Metrical Legend. Many of the romancing
histories of Scotland treat it as one of the most re-
markable minor incidents in the story of the war of
independence; and the local traditions of Ayrshire
proudly point to it as high evidence of the eminent
connexion of their country with the life and achieve-
ments of Scotland's greatest hero.
BARNTON. See Cramond.
BARNWELL, a suppressed parish in the district
of Kyle, Ayrshire. It was suppressed in the 17th
century; and its territory was divided between
Craigie and Tarbolton, while the greater part of its
stipend was given to Stair.
BARNYARDS, a village in the parish of Kilcon-
quhar, Fifeshire. Population, 232.
BAROCHAN. See Houstoun.
BARON-HILL. See Rothesay.
BARONY PARISH. See Glasgow.
BARR-. See Bar-.
BARR, a parish containing a village of the same
name with a post-office, in the south-east of Carrick,
Ayrshire. It is bounded by Kirkcudbrightshire,
and by the parishes of Straiton, Dailly, Colmonell,
and Girvan. Its length is about 20 miles, and its
breadth about 8. It comprises about 55,190 acres,
but is so moorish and hilly that not more than 1,200
acres are in tillage, and not much more than another
1,000 capable of profitable improvement. Its heights
are extensively disposed in ranges, with extreme
altitudes of from 1,000 to 2,700 feet. The Stinchar
rises in it, and flows through it from north-east to
south-west between two high ranges. The princi-
pal roads which intersect it are the old and new
roads from Wigtownshire to Ayr; the former running
up the dale of the Minnock water from south to
north, on the eastern side of the parish; the latter
branching off in a north-east direction from the
former, at Rowantree. Another road branches off
and runs north-west to the village. A third stream
is theMuck water, which rises among the hills to
the south, and flows in a direction parallel to the
Stinchar, to its confluence with the Dusk in the
parish of Colmonell. There are a few small lochs,
and several extensive morasses. The village oi
BARR.
13G
BASRA.
BaiT is situated on the south side of the Stinchar,
at the confluence of the Gregg water with that river,
7 miles from Girvan. Its population in 1861 was
380. A fair is held at it on the last Thursday of
May ; and this was formerly held at Kirk Dominae,
a name given to the ruins of an ancient Roman
Catholic chapel which still exist, ahout a mile to
the south-west of the church. Population of the
parish in 1831,941; in 1861, 910. Houses, 181.
Assessed property in 1860, £8,858.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the pres-
bytery of Ayr, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. It
was disjoined in 1653 from the parishes of Girvan
and Dailly. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £331 3s.
Id.: glebe, £18. Unappropriated teinds, £154.
Schoolmaster's salary, now £56 10s., with £30 fees
and other emoluments. The parish church is an
old building, and contains 390 sittings. There is a
Free church ; attendance, 145 ; yearly sum raised
in 1865, £128 4s. 3£d.
BARE, a glen in the parish of Killean, and west
Bide of the peninsula of Kintyre, Argyleshire. It
opens to the ocean southward of the Mull of Islay,
and about 12 miles north-west of Campbelltown ; and
at its head is Benantuire or Wild Boar's Mountain,
with an altitude of 2,170 feet above the level of
the sea.
BAER, an estate in Renfrewshire. See Loch-
winnoch.
BARRA, a hill, about 600 feet high, in the parish
of Bourtie, Aberdeenshire. See Bouktie.
BARRA, or Bareay, an island parish at the south-
em extremity of the Outer Hebrides, Inverness-
shire. It comprises a group of nine inhabited is-
lands and upwards of a dozen uninhabited ones.
The nearest Jand to it on the north is South Uist,
distant 6 miles; on the east, Canna and Rum, dis-
tant 26 miles; on the south, Tiree, distant 30 miles;
and on the west, America. It extends south-west-
ward, in the same direction as the main body of
the Outer Hebrides, and looks on the map as if
forming a tail to that great lizard-shaped group.
Its length is 28 miles; and its greatest breadth is 8
miles. It is all one estate, and, from time imme-
morial till December 1840, was the property of the
family of Macneil ; but was then sold for £38,050 to
Colonel Gordon of Cluny, and was reckonedto con-
tain 4,000 imperial acres of arable land, and 18,000
acres of meadow and hill-pasture. The land rental
of it was £2,458 10s. 7d. Assessed property in 1843,
£2,469 12s. 9d. The inhabited islands are Barra,
Watersa, Sandera, Pabba, Mingala, Bemera, Helesa,
Pladda, and Fuda. The island of Barra contains
five-sixths of the whole population, and is also the
main island in point of size. It lies in the northern
part of the parish, and measures about 12 miles in
length, and about 6 miles in extreme breadth, but
is much intersected by arms of the sea. Watersa,
separated from the main island by a channel of one
mile, is about 3 miles in length, and in some places
li mile broad. Sandera, to the south of Watersa,
and distant 5 miles from Barra, is 2 miles in length
and 2 in breadth. Pabba, at the distance of 8
miles from Barra, is 1£ in length, and 1 in breadth.
Mingala, at the distance of 12 miles, is 2 miles in
length, and 2 in breadth. Bemera — which, from
its being called the Bishop's isle, seems to have
once belonged to the Bishop of the Isles — 16 miles
south-south-west of Barra, is 1 mile in length, and
§ in breadth. All these islands are difficult of ac-
cess, on account of the strong currents running be-
tween them. Close by the island of Mingala is a
high rook, with very luxuriant grass on the top of
it. The inhabitants of this island climb to the top
at the risk of their lives, and by means of a rope
hoist up their wedders to fatten on the fine herbage.
This must be the Scarpa Vervecum mentioned by
Buchanan. The island of Barra has a barren rocky
appearance, excepting the north end, which is fertile.
In the middle and at the south end are some veiy
high hills, presenting a mixture of green sward,
rock, and heath. The soil in general is thin and
rocky, excepting at the north end. There is also
a great deal of sand, which is blown about with
every gale of wind, so that a large part of the best
corn-land has been thus blown away, or covered
with sand. Grazing and 6heep husbandly are ex-
tensively practised. The Barra breed of ponies was
once much celebrated for symmetry, agility, and
strength, but has greatly degenerated within the
last few years.
Barra held originally of the Kings of Scotland, till
the reign of James VI.. when an English ship was
seized on the coast by Roderick Macneil, then laird
of Barra, surnamed Rory the turbulent. Queen
Elizabeth complained of this act of piracy committed
upon her subjects; upon which the laird was sum-
moned to appear at Edinburgh, to answer for his
unjustifiable behaviour; but he treated the summons
with contempt. Several attempts were then made
to apprehend him, all of which proved unsuccessful,
until Mackenzie, tutor of Kintail, undertook to effect
by stratagem what others could not do by more
direct means. Having come, under cover of a
friendly visit, to the castle of Kisimul, where the
laird then resided, he invited him and all his re-
tainers on board his vessel, where, not suspecting
any hostile design, they suffered themselves to be
overpowered with liquor. In this situation poor
Rory's friends were easily put on shore, leaving
their unconscious chief in the hands of his kidnapper.
Kintail hoisted sail under night, and, the wind prov-
ing fair, was soon out of reach of his pursuers.
He at length arrived with his prisoner in Edinburgh,
where Rory was immediately put on his trial. Rory
confessed to his malpractices, but alleged that he
thought himself bound, by his loyalty, to avenge
the unpardonable injury done by the queen of Eng-
land to his own sovereign, and his majesty's mother.
By this answer, he obtained his pardon, but forfeited
his estate, which was given to Kintail, who restored
it back to the laird, on condition of his holding of
him, and paying him 60 merks Scots as a yearly
feu-duty. Some time after, Sir James Macdonal'd
of Slate married a daughter of Kintail's, who made
over the superiority to Sir James. The old resi-
dence of the feudal lairds of Barra was a small
fortalice in Castle-bay, built upon a rock which must
have formerly been almost covered with the sea.
This building is of an hexagonal form ; the wall is
about 30 feet high ; and in one of its angles is a high
square tower, on the top of which, at the corner im-
mediately above the gate, is a perforated stone
through which the gockman, or watchman, who sat
there all night, could let a stone fall upon any one
who might attempt to surprise the gate by night.
Within the wall are several houses, and a well dug
through the middle of the rock. Buchanan calls it
an old castle in his time.
There are great quantities of cod and ling caught
upon the east coast of Barra. The fishing banks
extend from the mouth of Loch Boisdale to Barra-
Head. At the close of last century from 20 to
30 boats were generally employed in this business
from the latter end of March, or the beginning of
April, to the end of June; there were five hands to
every boat, and on an average they killed from
1,000 to 1,500 ling each boat. In 1829, the number
of boats belonging to this parish employed in the
herring, cod, and ling fisheries was 81, manned by
BARRA HEAD.
137
BARRIE.
4(15 hands. The number of cod, ling, and hake fish
taken was 31,574 ; the tola! quantity cured and dried
1,136 cwt., of which 291 cwt. were exported to
Ireland. It does not appear that this fishery has
made any progress since the end of last century.
Shell fish abound here, such as limpits, mussels,
whelks, clams, spout-fish or razor-fish, lobsters, and
crabs; but the most valuable to the inhabitants is
the shell fish called cockle. It is found upon the great
sand at the north end of Barra, in such quantities,
that in times of great scarcity all the families upon
the island have resorted hither for their subsistence;
and it has been computed, that no less than from 100
to 200 horse-loads of cockles have been taken off the
sands at low-water, every day of the springtides,
during the months of May, June, July, and August.
Dean Monroe tells us that, " in the north end of this
isle of Barray, ther is ane rough heigh know, mayne
grasse and greine round about it to the head, on the
top of quhilk ther is ane spring and fresh water well.
This well truely springs up certain little round
white things, less nor the quantity of confeit come,
lykest to the shape and figure of an little cokill, as it
appearit to me. Out of this well runs ther ane little
strype downwith to the sea, and quher it enters into
the sea ther is ane myle braid of sands, quhilk ebbs
ane myle, callit the Trayrmore of Kilbaray, that is
the grate sands of Barray. This ile is all full of
grate cokills, and alledgit bo the ancient country-
men that the same cokills comes down out of the
foresaid hill through the said strype, in the first
small forme that we have spoken of, and after ther
coming to the sandis growis grate cokills always.
Ther is na fairer and more profitable sands for cokills
in all the warld."
Of harbours, the first towards the north is Ottir-
vore, which is more properly a roadsted than a har-
bour; the entrance to it is from the east between the
islands of Griskay and Gigha. The next farther
south is Flodda sound, which is surrounded by a
number of islands, and opens to the south-east; here
the largest ships may ride with safety all seasons of
the year. Tirivee, or the inland bay, is so called
from its cutting far into the middle of the country;
here vessels may ride out the hardest gales ; it opens
also to the south-east. At the south end of Barra is
Kisimul-bay, or Castle-bay, so called from the old
castle formerly mentioned; it opens to the south.
In the island of Watersa is a very commodious har-
bour for ships of any burden : it is accessible from
the south-east between the islands of Sandera and
Muldonich. Ottirvore and Flodda are much fre-
quented by ships to and from the Baltic. A vessel
sails once a-month from Barra Head to Tobermory ;
communication is regularly maintained with the
post-office of Lochmaddy in North Uist; and private
boats ply at all seasons of the year to Glasgow.
Population of the island of Barra in 1841, 1,977; in
1861,1,591. Houses, 324. Population of the parish
in 1831, 2,097; iu 1861, 1,853. Houses, 368.
This parish is in the presbj'tery of Uist and synod
ofGlenelg. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £165 10s.
5d.; glebe, £7 10s. Schoolmaster's salary, £45, with
fees and allowance for a garden. The parish church
stands in the centre of the island of Barra, and was
built about the year 1834, and contains 250 sittings.
A church was erected in Bernera by the parlia-
mentary commissioners at the cost of £1,470.
There is a Eoman Catholic chapel in the parish,
with an attendance of 300 ; and the large majority
of the parishioners are Roman Catholics.
BABE A HEAD, the high ground of the island of
Bernera at the southern extremity of the parish of
Barra, and of the Outer Hebrides, Inverness-shire
it is situated in north latitude 56° 48', and west
longitude 7° 38'. Hero is a splendid lighthouse,
built of a beautiful granite, furnished by the island
itself. The light stands 680 feet above the level of
high water, and is seen in clear weather at. the dis-
tance of 32 miles. It is an intermittent light, visi-
ble during 2A minutes, and eclipsed during J a
minute. The lighthouse was erected in 1833.
Notwithstanding its great elevation, the sea spray
flies over it in jets during high westerly winds.
BAREACHINE. See Barachnie.
BAEEAY. See Barra and Bukray.
BAEEIIEAD, a manufacturing and post town
on the northern border of the parish of Neilston,
Renfrewshire. It stands on the south bank of the
Levern, and on the road from Glasgow to Irvine, 3
miles south-south-east of Paisley, and 6§ south-west
of Glasgow. It is also connected with Glasgow by
the Glasgow, Barrhead, and Neilston Direct Eailway,
on which there are several trains up and down every
day. The town has made very rapid progress since
about the beginning of the present century; and is
now, along with the village of Neilston, a centre of
trade to a manufacturing population of between
30,000 and 40,000. It has branch offices of the
Union Bank, the lioyal Bank, the Bank of Scotland,
and the City of Glasgow Bank. A small debt court
is held in it every alternate month. There are five
places of worship in it, — a Chapel of Ease, a Free
church, an United Presbyterian, a Morrisonian,
and a Eoman Catholic. All these, except the United
Presbyterian, have been built since 1837. The
yearly sum raised in connexion with the Free church
in 1865 was £537 13s. 6Jd. The Eoman Catholic
chapel was opened in 1841, and can accommodate
nearly 1,000 persons. Population of the town in
1841, 3,492; in 1861, 6,018. Houses, 430.
BAEKHILL, a village with a post-office, in the
parish of Colmonell, Ayrshire. It stands nearly in
the centre of the parish, on the river Dusk, and on
the road from Girvan to Newtown-Stewart. Here
is a Free church, whose total yearly proceeds in
1865 amounted to £103 14s. 9|d. Cattle markets are
held on the fourth Friday of April, September, and
October. The village is quite modem, and had in
1837 about 100 inhabitants.
BAEEHILL, an elevation on the mutual bordei
of the parishes of Cumbernauld and Kirkintilloch,
about 3 miles west of the village of Cumbernauld,
Dumbartonshire. One of the forts in the line of
Antoninus' wall stood on its summit; and some
vaults belonging to it, all entire, were discovered
near the close of last century. The situation com-
mands a view of almost the whole line of the wall,
or upwards of 32 miles, from east to west.
BAEBEL OF BUTTEE. Sec Orpbir.
BAEEIE, a parish, containing the village of
Barrie and the small post town of Carnoustie, at the
south-eastern extremity of Forfarshire. It is bounded
by the German Ocean, the frith of Tay, and the
parishes of Panbride, Monikie, and Monifieth. Its
length is about 4 miles; and its breadth about 3.
The coast is flat and sandy; but a high verdant
bank, which seems once to have formed the coast-
line in this quarter, extends from north-east to south •
west, so as to give to the northern division of the
parish the appearance of a terrace elevated about 50
feet above the southern division. About one half of
the entire area is arable; and the rest is too light
and sandy to be capable of cultivation. The south-
eastern extremity is the headland of Budden-ness,
bearing two lighthouses for guiding vessels into the
frith. See Buddex-xess. There are six or seven
principal landowners. The greater part of the
parishioners, both male and female, are more or less
engaged in the manufacture of brown and white
BARVAS.
138
BASS.
linen for the manufacturers of Dundee and Arbroath.
The road from Dundee to Arbroath traverses the
north-west wing of the parish. The Dundee and
Arbroath railway also traverses the interior, and has
a station here. The village of Barrie stands a little
north-west of the centre of the parish, nearly midway
between Dundee and Arbroath. Population of the
village in 1851, 217. Population of the parish in
1831, 1,682; in 1861,2,465. Houses, 601. Assessed
property in 1843, £4,051 14s. 9d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Arbroath, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £143 12s. lid.; glebe, £5 10s. Unappro-
priated teinds, £4 3s. 8d. Schoolmaster's salary,
now is £50, with about £30 fees. The parish
church was enlarged in 1818, and has 673 sittings.
There is a Free church at Barrie ; and there are a
quondam chapel of ease, now a quoad-sacra par-
ochial church, a Free church, an United Presbyterian
church, and a Reformed Presbyterian church, at
Carnoustie. Attendance at the Barrie F. church,
from 300 to 330 ; at the Carnoustie F. church, 450 ;
at the U. Presbyterian church, 250. Yearly sum
raised in 1865 by the Barrie F. church, £203 14s.
7d.,; by the Carnoustie F. church, £435 10s. ll|d.
There is one private school. In the neighbourhood
of Carnoustie Malcolm II. signally defeated a body
of marauding Danes under Camus.
BARROGILL CASTLE. See Caxisbay.
BARRSTOBRICK. See Tongland.
BARRY. See Barrie.
BARRY-HILL. See Altth.
BARSICK HEAD. See Ronaldshay (South).
BARSKIMMING. See Mauchlike and Stair.
BARVAS, a parish in the north of the island of
Lewis, Ross-shire. It is bounded on two sides by
the Atlantic, and on other sides by the parishes of
Stomoway and Lochs. Its post-town is Stornoway.
Its length south-westward is about 25 miles ; and
its breadth is about 8 miles. In the extreme north
is the terminating promontory of the island, called
the Butt of Lewis. All the coast is bold and rug-
ged, having a tremendous surf upon it when the
wind blows from the west or the north-west. The
soil is in general light and stony, or mossy. The only
arable land is along the coast. There is not a tree,
and scarcely a shrub throughout the parish. The
principal river is the Barvas, which rises in some
small lakes on the southern boundary of the parish,
and flows northwards, expanding near its mouth
into a small loch. The streams contain some trout,
and occasionally salmon : on the coast, cod, ling,
and haddocks are caught. The interior abounds
with plovers, snipes, wild-geese, and ducks. There
is a road from the mouth of the Barvas, southward
along the eastern bank of that stream, to Storno-
way, a distance of about 18 miles. The village of
Barvas, together with the parish church, stands on
the north side of the mouth of the Barvas. The
islands of Rona- Lewis and Sulisker belong to this
parish. Population of the parish in 1831, 3,011 ; in
1861, 4,609. Houses, 846. Assessed property in
1843, £1,941 17s. 7d.; in 1860, £2,586.
This parish is in the presbytery of Lewis, and
synod of Glenelg. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£158 6s. 8d.; glebe, £20. Schoolmaster's salary,
£35. The parish church was built about 1794, and
contains 300 sittings. There is a government
church, under the patronage of the Crown, and with
the usual endowment, in the northern district, called
Cross or Ness. There is a Free church at Barvas ;
there is also one in Cross; and the yearly sum raised
in 1865 in connexion with the former was £73 7s.
6d., and in connexion with the latter, £116 8s. 8Jd.
There are five non-parochial schools.
BARVIE (The), a romantic rivulet of Perthshire,
falling into the Earn near Crieff. See Mokzie.
BARWHINNOCK. See Twynholm.
BASS (The), a stupendous insulated rock, in the
parish of North Berwick, Haddingtonshire. It
stands in the mouth of the frith of Forth, about 1^
mile from the nearest part of the shore, and about 3|
miles north-east of the town of New Berwick. It
measures fully a mile in circumference, and has a
height of 420 feet above the surface of the water.
Its north side is the loftiest and rises almost sheer
up from the sea. Its south side has a somewhat
conical form, and ascends with a moderate gradient
from near the base. Its surface comprises about
seven acres of grassy pasturage. A cavernous pas-
sage pierces a great limb of it from north-west to
south-east, and can be traversed even at full tide in
calm weather, but does not present any remarkable
feature. The only landing-place is a flat shelving
point on the south-east; and this was long command-
ed by a small fortalice now in ruins. The scenery
of the south side of the frith, with the Bass in near
view, is one of the most beautiful in Scotland. As
Dr. Moir has said,
"Traced like a map, the landscape lies
In cultured beauty stretching wide;
There Pentland's green acclivities —
There ocean with its azure tide —
There Arthur's Seat, and, gleaming: through,
Thy southern wing, Dunedin blue I
While in the orient, Lammer's daughters,
A distant giant range are seen —
North Berwick Law with cove of green
And Bass, among the waters."
An interesting volume, the joint production of
five Edinburgh literati, was published several years
ago, entitled, "The Bass Rock, its Civil and Eccle-
siastical History, Geology, Martyrology, Zoology,
and Botany." Mr. James Miller also gives a variety
of curious legendary matter respecting the Bass in
notes to a poem, published in 1825, and entitled
"St. Baldred of the Bass." This St. Baldred seems
to have been a Culdee hermit, of similar character
to St. Mungo of Glasgow, with a reputation for good
deeds which won him the title of the apostle of East
Lothian, and is said to have died on the Bass in the
year 606. But the earliest known proprietors of the
rock — the earliest parties which appear connected
with it in perfectly authentic record — are the an-
cient family of the Landers : hence called ' the Lau-
ders of the Bass.' There is a charter in existence
in favour of Robert Lauder from William de Lam-
bert, bishop of St. Andrews, dated 1316. This
curious document sets forth that 'the island in the
sea called the Bass is to be holden by the said
Robert and his heirs, from us and our ancestors for
ever, with all liberties, commodities, and ease-
ments, and with the pertinents, freely and quietly,
in all and by all, without any reservation; pay-
ing, therefore, the said Robert and his heirs, to us
and our successors at Tynyngham, at the term of
Whitsunday, yearly, one pound of white wax, in
name of feu-favour, for all lands, services, and de-
mands, which can be exacted or demanded by us
and our successors for the said island with the per-
tinents.'
The Bass remained in the possession of the Lauders
for several centuries. But about the middle of the
seventeenth century, it belonged to the Laird of
Waughton. Cromwell was then on the eve of his
departure to invade Scotland; and a fear being en-
tertained that the public records of the church would
be in danger, it was proposed that the Bass might
be made secure for the registers, as it had been in
a former day of calamity ! The proprietor ' most
gladlie offered to receive them, promising his utmost
Cfire to secure and preserve tliem from all danger.'
But the precaution was in vain. The Bass soon
submitted to the indomitable Cromwell ; and in the
following springtheParliamentordcred 'the Records
of the Kirk,' to be packed up in cask 'and sent to
the Tower, there to remain in the same custody that
the other records that came from Scotland are.'
These documents perished in the conflagration
which occurred in the House of Commons in Octo-
ber 1833.
From the Laird of Waughton the Bass passed into
the hands of Sir Andrew Ramsay, lord provost of
Edinburgh, and great-great-grandfather of the pre-
sent Sir John Dick Lauder, the lineal descendant of
" the Landers of the Bass." It was purchased from
Sir Andrew in October, 1671, by Lauderdale, in
name of the government, to be used as a state prison.
A pamphleteer of that period, referring to the mat-
ter, says, " My Lord Lauderdale, to gratify Sir An-
drew, moves the King, upon the pretence that the
Bass was a place of strength, like to a castle in the
moon, and of great importance, the only nest of
solan geese in these parts, to buy the rock from Sir
Andrew, at the rate of £4,000 sterling, and then ob-
tains the command and profits of it, amounting to
more than £100 sterling yearly, to be bestowed upon
himself." The history of this rock now presents, for
a number of years, a series of acts, most cruel and
oppressive. About forty individuals, chiefly clergy-
men, were confined here, for periods ranging from
two months to six years, on no other accusation than
that they followed their own conscientious convic-
tions in matters of religion, rather than yield com-
pliance to the will of the King. A great part of the
time spent here by the persecuted servants of God
was spent in solitary confinement. No one was per-
mitted to see his neighbour, and seldom were they
allowed to leave their cells. Sometimes, indeed,
they would be permitted, two by two, to walk on the
rock above, and within the fortress; hut this was
more a precaution against the approach of bad
health than the evidence of the cruelty of their per-
secutors relenting. Diseases were caught here by
not a few, which cleaved to and enfeebled them for
life; and the cell of the celebrated Colonel John
Blackadder proved his grave.
The landing of the Prince of Orange in England,
in 1688, changed the entire aspect of things. Yet
for two years the Bass Rock held out for the exiled
King. In 1690 it surrendered into the hands of the
new government, but speedily, by accident, fell
again into the hands of the adherents of James. A
few young officers who had been taken prisoners at
Cromdale, were imprisoned on the Bass. They soon
formed a plan to take it by surprise, and succeeded.
For several years, they contrived, with great bravery,
to keep their ground, and every effort to dislodge
them proved ineffectual. Their friends supplied
them with provision from the shore; and as they
grew more fearless, they plundered various mer-
chant vessels, and made all pay tribute who came
incautiously within range of the guns. The siege
cost Fletcher of Saltoun, the new governor, a vast
amount of trouble and expense ; and it was not till
two ships of war were despatched to cut off supplies,
that the marauders were brought to the necessity of
capitulating. By an ingenious stratagem, they suc-
ceeded in obtaining honourable and advantageous
terms. Thus the Bass was the last place in Scotland
that held out for James. After the surrender an
orderwas issued that the fortress andbuildings should
be dismantled, and the cannon and ammunition re-
moved; but this was not finally effected till 1701.
The property of the Bass was acquired hy President
Dalrymple, from the Crown, by charter, in 1706, and
the island has ever since been in the uninterrupted
possession of his family.
The Bass is frequently visited by parties of plea-
sure. The best season for visiting it is June or
July. Boats are obtained at the keeper's house in
the hamlet of Canty bay. Upon landing, which
cannot be done with comfort except when the
weather is fine, you are met by the wall of the
fortress, which serves to enclose the patch of pas-
ture where about a score and a half of sheep are
grazing, and through which you pass by a door
which is kept locked by the person who farms the
island. Within the door you stand at the foot of a
gentle declivity, covered with a tliin coating of soil,
which supports a rich though precarious pasture.
Half way up the declivity stands an ancient chapel,
built, as is supposed, on the site of the cell of St.
Baldred. It has obviously seen several centuries;
but it cannot claim an antiquity equal to that ot
the good hermit. The Bass, it appears, was once a
parish ; but where the parishioners came from it is
hard to guess, unless we understand certain refer-
ences in old documents to imply that it included the
neighbouring parishes of Aldham (now Whitekirk),
Tyningham, and Preston. Beyond the chapel there
was, in the olden time, a garden, the fruit of which
cheered and refreshed the good Mr. Fraser of Brea
during his confinement on the rock. But now, both
fruit-trees and flowers have disappeared, and not
even a rose is left on its stalk, ' to mark where a
garden had been.'
Several birds take up their abode on the Bass, the
chief of which is the gannet or solan goose. It is
smaller than a domestic goose, and ranker in fla-
vour, owing perhaps to the fact that it feeds upon
fish. It is the young bird only that is used. At
one time the gannets were greatly in demand, but
they are yearly becoming less so. The rent of the
Bass is paid out of the proceeds of the young birds
and the few sheep which it supplies with pasture.
It was long believed that this was the only habitat
of the gannet in Scotland ; hut this is now known
to be a false impression, as several other rocky
islands shelter them in large numbers. The birds
make their nests on the surface of the rock, and
along the shelves in the perpendicular cliffs. They
are said to he very tame, nearly as much so as the
penguins found on Possession Island by Sir James
Ross, in his expedition to the Antarctic Ocean.
BASS OF INVERURY (The), an earthen mount
on the banks of the Ury in Aberdeenshire, said by
tradition to have been once a castle which was
walled up and covered with earth because the inha-
bitants were infected with the plague. It is de-
fended against the stream by buttresses, which were
built by the inhabitants of Inverury, who were
alarmed by the following prophecy, ascribed to
Thomas the Rhymer:
" Dee and Don, they shall mn on,
And Tweed shall run and Tay;
And the bonny water of Ury
Shall bear the Bass away."
The inhabitants of Inverury sagaciously concluded
that this prediction could not be accomplished with-
out releasing the imprisoned pestilence; and, to
guard against this fatal event, they raised ramparts
against the encroachments of the stream. The no-
tion of the plague, or pestilence, or black death, or
other fearful epidemic, being buried in certain
places, is one of the most common traditions in
Scotland. " According to some accounts," say?
Leyden, " gold seems to have had a kind of chemi-
cal attraction for the matter of infection, and it is
frequently represented as concentrating its virulence
in a pot of gold. According to others, it seems to
BASSENDEAN.
140
BATHGATE.
have been regarded as a kind of spirit or monster,
like the cockatrice, which it was deadly to look on."
BASSENDEAN, an ancient parish, now com-
prised in the parish of Westruther, in the west of
Berwickshire. It was a vicarage, and belonged to
the nuns of Coldstream. The church, now in ruins,
stood near the mansion-house, on the south-east;
and the walls still enclose the burying-place of the
Homes of Bassendean. Soon after the Reformation,
Andrew Carrie, vicar of Bassendean, conveyed to
William Home, third son of Sir James Home, of
Cowdenknows, " terras ecclesiasticas, mansionem,
et glebam vicarie de Bassendene:" whereupon he
obtained from James VI. a charter for the same, on
the 11th of February, 1573-4. This William, who
thus built his house upon church-lands, was the
progenitor of the present family here ; of whom
George Home, a compatriot of the Duke of Argvle,
was one of the most devoted supporters of Presby-
terianism against the inroads of Episcopacy in the
17th century. See Westruther.
BASTAVOE. See Yell.
BATHAN'S. See Abbey St. Bathan's.
BATHGATE, a parish, containing a post-town
of its own name, and also the village of Armadale,
in the west of Linlithgowshire. It is bounded by
Lanarkshire, and by the parishes of Torphichen,
Linlithgow, Ecclesmachan, Livingston, and Whit-
burn. Its length westward is about 7A miles ; its
greatest breadth is 4 miles ; and its area is 10,888
imperial acres. A considerable portion of the
south-east, south, and west of the parish is almost
a level ; but the north-east is hilly. The soil is ex-
ceedingly variable, some very good, some very in-
different and intermixed with patches of moss and
moor; and the climate is far from genial. But where
the land is arable, it is in a good state of cultivation,
and yields good crops of barley, oats, pease, and
beans. Large tracts also are covered with thriving
plantations, which tend greatly to heighten the
beauty of the landscape and improve the climate.
All the streams are small ; and some go to the Avon,
and others to the Almond. There was a lake of about
11 acres; but this was drained in 1853. The parish
is very rich in useful minerals. It contains quarries
of whinstone for road-metal, a quarry of excellent
sandstone for building, two large lime-works, and
several extensive coal mines. A peculiar kind of
coal, or a bituminous shale, is worked at Boghead,
about two miles west of the town ; is exported, in
large quantities, to the continent of Europe and
other places; is used chiefly in the production of
illuminating gas, paraffin oil, and solid paraffin ; was
mined, in years prior to 1866, at the rate of about
100,000 tons a-year; and was then computed to
exist to only such limited extent that it would be-
come nearly exhausted in about 8 or 9 years. Com-
mon coal, blackband ironstone, and grey ironstone
are worked in the same field as this coal. A chem-
ical work, for manufacturing paraffin oil and solid
paraffin from the Boghead coal, and employing from
600 to 700 men, is about a mile south of the town.
Another chemical work, for the same purpose, was
erected shortly before 1865 ; and, together with
brick-making and mining, employs between 300 and
400 persons. A third chemical work, for extracting
oil and paraffin from a bituminous shale which abounds
in its vicinity, was erected near the end of 1865,
about 3 miles east of the town. A very rich iron
ore was at one time worked on the estate of Couston
by the Carron Company. A silver ore was for some
time worked in one of the lime quarries, which still
retains the name of Silver mine ; but, after yielding
a considerable quantity of silver, the ore became
too poor for remunerating working, and now the
lime alone is wrought. Lead occurs in small veins.
Fire clay is abundant. Mineral pitch lies in thin
beds among the limestone. Calc-spar is plentiful;
and heavy- spar, pearl-spar, Lydian stone, and
chalcedony are occasionally found. There were
formerly four grain mills, but there are now only
two. There are five principal landowners. The
estimated total value of annual produce in 1843 was
£34,541. Assessed property in 1843, .£12,975 4s.
7d.; valued rental in 1865, £40,449 7s. Id.; of rail-
ways, £5, 664 18s. The mid-road between Edinburgh
and Glasgow, that which formerly was the shortest
and most frequented line of communication between
these cities, intersects the parish ; four lines of rail-
way, toward respectively Edinburgh, Borrowstown-
ness, Airdrie, and Morningside, diverge from the
town ; and great railway extensions were either in
progress or under consideration at the end of 1865,
of a kind to affect materially the traffic of the par-
ish. There are two railway stations at the town,
about J of a mile asunder. Trains run thrice a-day
to Edinburgh and to Glasgow, and twice a-day to
Borrowstownness and to Morningside. Population
of the parish in 1831, 3,593 ; in 1861, 10,134.
Houses, 1,527.
This parish, anciently a vicarage, is in the pres-
bytery of Linlithgow, and synod of Lothian and
Tweeddale. Patron, the Earl of Hopetoun. Sti-
pend in 1864, £215 15s. Id. Schoolmaster's salary,
£60, with lis. 6d. of a mortification, and about £50
fees. There is also a free academy, conducted by
four teachers, in which Latin, Greek, French, and
other branches of education are taught. This in-
stitution originated in an ample bequest by Mr.
John Newlands of Jamaica, a native of Bathgate ;
and occupies a handsome building, with connected
yards, on a rising-ground a little to the south-east
of the town. The number of pupils attending it in
1S43 was 537. There are also schools connected
with two of the public works. The ancient church
of Bathgate was of modern value. Malcolm IV.
granted to the monks of Holyrood the church of
Bathgate, with a portion of land, Robert, the
Diocesan, who died about the year 1 159, also granted
to it certain privileges, and subsequently the abbot
and monks of Holyrood made a transfer of the
church-property to the abbot and monks of New-
bottle, which arrangement was confirmed in 1327
by Bishop Landels. The present parish-church was
built in 1739, and underwent some alterations in
1780; and it is in tolerably good repair, and capa-
ble of accommodating 719 persons. There is also a
church in connexion with the establishment at Ar-
madale. There are two Free churches, the one in
Bathgate, the other in Armadale ; and the sums
raised by their congregations in 1865 were £182 18s.
ljd. and £193 7s. 9d. There are a United Presby-
terian church, an Evangelical Union chapel, and a
Roman Catholic church in Bathgate, and an Episco-
palian church and a Wesleyan chapel in Armadale.
The Town op Bathgate stands nearly in the
centre of the parish, on the Edinburgh and Glasgow
road, and at the termini of the Bathgate railways,
2J miles north by west of Blackburn, 5^ south by
west of Linlithgow, 18 west-south-west of Edin-
burgh, and 24 east-north-east of Glasgow. Its
situation is pleasant. The hilly grounds adjacent
to it on the north and east, and the beautiful park
of Balbardie in its northern vicinity, give it a
cheerful aspect. The town consists of two parts,
the old and the new. The old town is built on a
steep ridge, and the streets are narrow and crooked.
The new town is built on a regular plan, and has a
good appearance. Much extension has been made,
and great additional stir has arisen, from the opening
BATHGATE.
141
BEATII.
of the railways, and from the operation of the neigh-
bouring mines and works. Many handsome shops
and fine new dwelling-houses meet the eye; tiie
churches, the academy, the gas-work, a distillery,
and a brewery are conspicuous ; and the corn ex-
change, the office of the Koyal Bank, and the office
of the Union Bank are recent and ornamental. A
weekly market is held on Tuesday, and has become
important as a central corn-market for Linlithgow-
shire and the adjoining counties. Fairs, well at-
tended, are held on the Wednesday after Whitsun-
day, old style, and the Wednesday after Martinmas,
old style ; fairs, poorly attended, are held on the
fourth Wednesday of June and the fourth Wednes-
day of October ; and three other fairs are allowed
by statute, but are not held. The town has offices
of the National Bank, the Royal Bank, the Union
Bank, and the Clydesdale Bank. It has also a savings'
bank, several friendly societies, and a total abstinence
society ; and there is a library connected with the
academy. A sheriff small debt court is held on the
third Wednesday of January, April, July, and Octo-
ber. There is a small prison ; hut it has fallen into
disrepair, and is now used only for a night or so till
a prisoner can be conveyed to Linlithgow.
Bathgate was erected into a burgh of barony by
act of parliament in 1824. The governing body
appointed by the act was a provost, three bailies,
twelve councillors, and a treasurer ; and in the first
election, these were chosen by all the persons,
whether within the burgh or not, who had sub-
scribed £1 or more toward the expense of the act;
but in all future elections, Uiey were to be changed
partially, on the first Tuesday of September every
year, in the following manner. The provost, the
treasurer, the eldest and third bailies, and the four
eldest councillors were to go out, and their places
to be filled by open votes. The proprietor of the
lands and barony of Bathgate, whether a burgess
or not, was to be entitled to one vote; and he further
might fill up the office of third bailie, if he choose,
but he required to fill it with a person who had been
provost, bailie, or treasurer within the previous
three years, or who had been a councillor within
two years. The other voters were to be all resident
persons who had been admitted burgesses, and were
at the same time proprietors, feuars, or occupiers of
houses of at least £3 of yearly rent ; and the bur-
gesses were either all who had paid £1 toward the
expense of the act, or who, while renting £3 or up-
wards, had paid an entrance-fee fixed by the magis-
trates and council, and not exceeding two guineas.
The act also contained detailed regulations for light-
ing with gas, for paving the streets, and for a system
of police, and authorized an annual assessment to be
made, not exceeding one shilling in the pound. But,
in 1865, by a small majority, the general police act
was adopted ; and, though some talk arose of bring-
ing an action of reduction on the ground of informal-
ity, yet commissioners were appointed andother steps
taken to carry out the new act. Population of the
town in 1831, 2,581; in 1861, 4,827. Houses, 748.
Bathgate lays claim to a considerable antiquity,
having been part of the extensive possessions given
by King Robert Bruce as the dowry of his daughter,
Lady Margery, to Walter, high-steward of Scotland,
in 1616. Walter himself died here in 1328, at one
of his chief residences, the site of which may be
still seen marked by three stunted fir-trees. Some
of the inhabitants suffered hardship and loss in the
times of the persecution; and the insurgent army of
the Covenanters passed a disastrous night here on
their march from the west to Rullion Green. The
town, with a territory around it, was anciently a
sheriffdom in itself, — a distinction which it probably
obtainedfrom its connexion with the royal family; and
indeed it still is in law a sheriffdom in itself,— only
that the sheriff of Linlithgowshire is always also
the sheriff of Bathgate. On the abolition of 'heredi-
tary jurisdictions in 1747, John, Karl of Hopetoun,
claimed £2,000 for his right to this sheriffdom.
BATHGATE AND EDINBURGH RAILWAY.
This work commences at Bathgate, and proceeds
by Bracelet Hall and Clifton to a junction with the
Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway at a point a little
west of the Ratho station. It is about 10J miles in
length. A branch goes off from it at Houston to
Uphall, intended for Binhy Quarry. The two first
miles of it are on a dead level, and the rest have
gradients varying from 1 in 704 to 1 in 110. The
cuttings and embankments are comparatively light}
and there is a viaduct of about 160 yards in length
across the Almond. There are three stations for
respectively Livingston, Houston, and Broxburn
BATHE'S BOG. See Dunse.
BATTIE'S DEN. See Paxbride.
BATTLEDYKES. See Oathlaw.
BATTLEHILL, in the parish of Annan, Dum
fries-shire, said to have received its name from a
bloody engagement which took place here betwixt
the Scots and English, in which the latter were cut
off to a man. A strong mineral spring was recently
discovered here.
BATTLEHILL, a hill on the mutual border of
the parishes of Dramblade and Huntly, Aberdeen-
shire, said to have acquired its name from a conflict
which took place on it, in the olden time, between
the Cummins and the Gordons.
BATTLEKNOWES. See Whitsome.
BATTLELAW. See Baluerino.
BATTOCK (Mount), a conspicuous summit of the
Grampians, elevated 3,465 feet above sea-level, and
situated at the point where the counties of Forfar,
Kincardine, and Aberdeen meet. See Grampians
(The).
BATTURRICK. See Kilmaronock.
BAY OF MARTYRS. See Ioxa.
BAYHEAD, a suburb of the town of Stomoway,
in the Outer Hebrides See Stornoway.
BAYNETON. See Baneton.
BEALOCH-NAMBO, a magnificent pass across
the northern shoulder of Ben- Venue, leading into
the district on the south side of Loch Katrine. It
appears to have been formed by the partial separa-
tion of this side of the mountain from the rest, and
composes an exceedingly sublime piece of scenery.
BEANSTON. See Prestonkirk.
BEATH, an inland parish, containing the villages
of Cowdenbeath, Kelty, and Oakfield, in the west of
Fifeshire. Its post - town is Blairadam. It is
bounded by the parishes of Cleish, Ballingry, Auch-
tertool, Aberdour, Dalgetty, and Dunfermline. Its
length is about 4 miles, and its breadth about 3.
The surface is rugged and hilly, but not mountain-
ous. Its highest ground is the beautiful hill o!
Beath on the south-west boundary, which com-
mands an extensive and very beautiful prospect.
A shallow and tame lake, called Loch Fitty, lies on
the western boundary, and sends eastward, through
the centre of the parish, a principal tributary of the
Orr. The Kelty, a head-water of that river, flows
along part of the northem border. Three collieries
and a lime-work are in operation. The total yearly
value of all the produce of the parish, was estimated
in 1836 at £13,947. Assessed property in 1865,
£11,782 2s. There are thirteen landowners; the
chief of whom are the Earl of Moray and Mr.Dewar.
The Edinburgh and Perth road traverses the parish
northward ; and the Dunfermline branch of what is
now the North British railway traverses it east-
BEATTOCK.
142
BEDRULE.
ward, and has a station in it at Cowdenbeath.
Population in 1831, 921; in 1861, 2,390. Houses,
41fi.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dunfermline,
and synod of Fife. Patron, the Earl of Moray.
Stipend, £183 17s. 10d.; glebe, £17. Schoolmaster's
salary is £52 10s., with about £30 fees, and a house
and garden. In the minutes of session of this
parish it is recorded, that " the first place of meet-
ing that ever the Protestant lords of Scotland had
for the covenante and reformatione was at the kirk
of Baith." Yet it appears from the same record — of
which a long and curious extract is given in the
New Statistical Account — that this kirk was long
neglected after the Reformation, and being unsup-
plied by any minister, the parishioners were accus-
tomed to assemble " to heere a pyper play upone the
Lord's daye, which was the daye of their profaine
mirth, not being in the workes of their calling."
There is a Free church at Kelty; attendance, 70;
yearly sum raised in 1853, £44 lis. l|d.
BEATON'S MILL. See Ninians (St.).
BEATTOCK, a place of thoroughfare in the par-
ish of Kirkpatrick-Juxta, Dumfries-shire. It is
situated in the vale of Evan Water, on the road
from Edinburgh to Carlisle, and on the line of the
Caledonian railway, 2 miles south-south-west of
Moffat, and 60J south by west of Edinburgh. It
was formerly a stage on the great south road, and
has an excellent large inn ; and is now the railway
station for Moffat, and has an elegant station-house
in the early English style of architecture. In its
near vicinity are Loch-House tower and the neat
modern village of Craigielands.
BEAUFORT. See Kiltarlity.
BEAULY, a village, with a post-office, and with
a station on the Highland railway, in the parish
of Kilmorack, Inverness-shire. It stands at the de-
bouch of Strathglass, and on the north side of the
river Beauly, near its influx into Loch Beauly, 12
miles west of Inverness. Its situation is pleasant.
Its principal street consists for the most part of
slated houses, and contains some well-stocked shops.
Many new houses have been built since 1841. The
harbour is small, and admits vessels of 50 tons bur-
den. The village has a Roman Catholic chapel,
and a branch-office of the North of Scotland Bank,
and is the constant residence of a sheriff-officer;
and it has an intimate connexion with the fairs of
the Moor of Ord. See Odd. This village was the
market-town of the old barons of Lovat. In the
immediate neighbourhood, near the brink of the
river, are the remains of the old priory of Beauly,
which was founded by Bisset of Lovat, in 1230, for
monks of the order of Valliscaullium. The Frasers,
Chisholrns, Mackenzies of Gairloch, and several
other families, have their burial-place here. About
2 miles west of Beauly are the celebrated falls of
Kilmorack. Population of the village, 917.
BEAULY (The), a river of Inverness-shire, prin-
cipally formed by the union of the Farrer from Glen
Farrer, and the Glass river, which gives the name
of Strathglass to the entire strath through which
the Beauly flows. These two streams unite at
Erchless castle ; and the Beauly formed by them
flows in a winding course of about 10 miles in
length, and with frequent narrowings and widenings,
north-eastward, to Loch Beauly. The road from
Inverness to Beauly is carried across this river by a
bridge of 5 arches, with a waterway of 240 feet,
known as the Lovat bridge, and built by the Parlia-
mentary commissioners in 1810. There is an ex-
cellent salmon-fishery at the mouth of the Beauly.
BEAULY (Loch), the upper basin or inner divi-
sion of the Moray frith. Its northern shores are in
Ross-shire; the southern, in Inverness-shire. Its
length, from the mouth of the Beauly river to the
narrow part which connects it with the lower basin
of the Moray frith at Kessock ferry is 7 miles ; and
its greatest breadth is about 2 miles. Its shores are
low and well-cultivated. The Caledonian canal
enters its lower parts at Clachnaharry, a little west of
Inverness. See Caledonian Canal.
BEAUMONT. See Moeebattle.
BEDEN-NA-BEAN. See Aroylebhire.
BEDRULE, a parish containing the three small
villages of Bedrule, Newton, and Rewcastle, in the
centre of Roxburghshire. Its post-town is Jedburgh.
It is bounded by the parishes of Jedburgh, Hobkirk,
Cavers, Minto, and Ancrum. Its length, from north
to south, is upwards of 4 miles; and its breadth is
between 2 and 3 miles. The Teviot traces the
northern boundary, and the Rule traces the western
one. The surface consists of the alluvial flats of
these rivers, and of bold lofty hill-screens on the
south and east; and comprises nearly equal pro-
portions of arable land, pasture, and moorland. A
grand feature over all the east is the broad-based,
high-crested, far-seeing Dunian. See Dunian. The
valley of the Teviot here is rich and beautiful, and
the vale of the Rule is narrow and picturesque.
See Teviot and Rule. The village of Bedrule
stands on Rule Water 2;V miles from Denholm and
3J from Jedburgh. It was once a sort of military
town, and was burnt in 1544 by an incursion of the
English ; but it is now a strictly rural place, with
modern houses, and a farm-stead-like appearance.
Population in 1851, 111. The chief of the family of
Turnbull — a branch of the very ancient family of
Rule — had his principal residence at Bedrule castle
in ancient times. This stronghold was pleasantly
situated behind the church, on the bank of the
river, — a situation from which are seen distinctly to
the north-west, the most elevated tops of some of
the hills near Ettrick and Yarrow, and the Eildons
near Melrose abbey; the Reidswyre to the south-
east; and south-westward, the same frontier tract
whence the Liddel derives its source, which, after
uniting with the Ewes and the Esk, falls into the
Solway frith. The view is more confined towards
the east and the west ; yet in these directions are seen
the top of Dunian and the entire ascent of Euberslaw,
the former having an elevation of 1 ,031 feet, the latter
of 1,419 feet above sea-level. The castle of Bedrule
no longer exists. Newton was anciently the pro-
perty of a family of the surname of Ker, who appear
to have been cadets of Fernihirst. There was also
a house of strength here, now likewise demolished;
but the beautiful avenues of venerable trees still re-
maining bespeak to the passing traveller something
of the consequence and taste of its former inhabi-
tants. Rewcastle, situated upon a more elevated
ground than either Bedrule or Newton, is considered
by some as a place of great antiquity. Indeed, it is
said, that the courts of justice were originally held
here, and afterwards removed to Jedburgh. Fulton
also was once a place of consequence, but now sur-
vives only in some remains of its tower. There are
vestiges of a regular encampment, on an elevated
ground almost at an equal distance between Bedrule
and Newton ; from its figure it appears to have been
British. There is another at the distance of about
half-a-mile to the eastward, which seems to have
been Roman. The roads from Hawick to Kelso
and Jedburgh traverse the lower part of the parish;
and a road goes up the vale of the Rule. Population
of the parish in 1831, 309; in 1861, 222. Houses,
41. Assessed property in 1865, £3,782 10s.
This parish is in the presbytery of Jedburgh, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, Hume ol
BEE.
143
BEITH.
Nincwells. Stipend, £148 9s. 8d. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50 with fees. The church was built about
the year 1803, and has about 140 sittings.
BEE (Locn), a large irregular inlet of the sea,
in the northern part of the island of South Uist. It
is nearly connected with Loch Skiport on the east-
ern side of the island, by a long narrow arm running
along the eastern base of Ben Phorster.
BEG (The). See Shee (The).
BEGLIE (Wicks of), a celebrated pass in the
Oehils, in the parish of Dion, in Perthshire, about
3£ miles to the west of Abernethy, and a little to
the west of the great road leading from Queensferry
to Perth, through Glenfarg. Sir Walter Scott, in
the opening chapter of ' St. Valentine's Day,' in the
second series of the ' Chronicles of the Canon gate,'
describes this spot as commanding a matchless view
of " the fair city of Perth," and its beautiful envi-
rons; but the truth is, that no part of Perth, or its
Inches, nor even the stupendous rock of Kinnoul,
can be seen from the Wicks properly so called, —
the beautiful and picturesque hill of Moredun or
Moncrieff completely intercepting the view of any
of these objects. The view from the Wicks, how-
ever, is most magnificent, and well-repays the labour
of the ascent and circuit. Immediately beneath is
stretched out the delightful vale of Strathearn, with
the river from which it takes its name winding
along till it loses itself in the Tay; while to the
right, the whole extent of that garden of Scotland,
the carse of Gowrie, is in full view, with the expan-
sive estuary of the Tay even to its confluence with
the ocean, — not to mention the innumerable objects
of minor interest which lie scattered on the fore-
ground, and the magnificent range of the Grampians
in the farthest distance. It is not, however, until
the traveller on this line of road arrive at a place
called Cloven Crags, 4 miles nearer Perth, and im-
mediately adjoining the west end of Moredun, that
the view described in the novel breaks upon his
astonished sight; or that the scene in the direction
of Perth, however beautiful, excites the emotion of
wonder, or could have called forth the exclamation
of the Romans. The mistake appears to have arisen
from the author having in his memory combined
the views from both stations; and when we consider
that both possess many points in common, — are
both on the same road, and within a few miles of
the other, — and that Scott's recollections were those
of more than half-a-century's wear and tear, the
mistake is veiy naturallv accounted for.
BEIL GRANGE, a village in the parish of Sten-
ton, Haddingtonshire.
BEITH, a parish partly in Renfrewshire but
chiefly in Ayrshire. It contains a post-town of its
own name, and the villages of Gateside, Northbar,
and Burnhouse. It is bounded by the parishes of
Lochwinnoek, Neilston, Dunlop, Kilwinning, Dairy,
and Kilbirnie. It has a triangular outline, and
measures 4 miles in extreme length. It comprises
part of the watershed between the basin of the
Clyde and the river systems of Ayrshire. A small
ridge of hills, with summits elevated from about
500 to 652 feet above the level of the sea, extends
along the north-east border; and thence the general
surface declines with gentle undulations, to the
west and south-west. The tops of the bills com-
mand a gorgeous and very extensive prospect south-
ward to the hills of Carrick and around Ailsa Craig,
south-westward to the peaks of Arran, north-west-
ward to the serrated ridges of Cowal, and northward
to Benlomond and the frontier masses of the Perth-
shire Grampians; but the parish does not contain
within itself any other kind of scenery than the
simply pleasant or the gently beautiful, or such as
arises from good soil and superior cultivation. The
land is possessed by upwards of 150 heritors, many
of whom farm their own property, and have greatly
enhanced its value by skill and labour. A narrow
strath, or continuous depression, extends westward
from the course of the Cart at and below Paisley to
the course of the Garnock at and below Kilwinning,
presenting a remarkable natural facility of overland
communication between the river Clyde and the bay
of Ayr; and the highest part of it, with an extreme
elevation of only about 95 feet above the level of the
sea, lies along the western part of the parish of Beith.
It was along this strath that the Ardrossan canal
was to have been cut ; and it is along this that the
Glasgow and Ayr railway goes. But great difficulty
was experienced in constructing the railway here,
on account of the softness of the ground; and the
line had to be supported on pile-work. Kilbirnie
Loch lies in the highest part of the strath. It is
more than a mile long and about half-a-mile broad;
and it contains trout, perches, and pikes, and is fre-
quented in hard winters by various kinds of aquatic
birds. An excellent limestone, containing from 90
to 95 per cent, of pure carbonate of lime, and seem-
ing to consist almost wholly of ancient shells, is very
extensively worked and exported for manure, and at
the same time has the hardness and other properties
of coarse marble, so as to be in considerable request
also for architectural purposes. Coal also is mined;
clay ironstone is abundant; and sandstone and
whinstone are quarried. The botany of the parish
comprises a wide range of plants, particularly of
rare flowering beauties. Two of the most conspi-
cuous residences are Caldwell House and Woodside.
The antiquities challenge the attention of the curious,
but are not popularly interesting. The Castle of
Giffen, indeed, was long a remarkable object in the
district, being a square tower, 40 feet high, sur-
mounting an eminence of 150 feet in the vicinity of
the strath ; hut it fell in 1838. The real rental of the
landward part of the parish is estimated in the New
Statistical Account in 1839 at £10,000. The staple
rural produce is cheese; and this is equal to the best
Dunlop, and brings the highest price in the Glasgow
market. Population in 1831, 5,117; in 1861, 5,775.
Houses, 659. Assessed property in 1843, £15,140
9s. 7d.; in I860. £20,521.
This parish is in the presbytery of Irvine, and
sjmod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Earl of
Eglinton. Stipend, £251 5s. lid.; glebe, £130.
Unappropriated teinds, £447 18s. 9d. The old glebe
— upon which a part of the town now stands — was
exchanged in 1727, by contract between the Earl of
Eglinton, the presbytery of Irvine, and the incumbent,
for a small farm near the town of Beith, consisting
of 31 acres 3 roods. Schoolmaster's salary, £70 with
fees. The parish church was built in 1807; sittings
1,250. It would appear, that the old church was
built soon after the Reformation. The third minis-
ter of Beith, after the Revolution, was Dr. William
Leechman, principal of the University of Glasgow, in
1736; who, in 1744, was succeeded by Dr. John
Wotherspoon, afterwards president of Princetown
college, New Jersey. There is a Free church;
yearly sum raised in 1865, £210 ]8s. lljd. There
are two United Presbyterian churches, built in 1784
and 1816, and containing 849 and 498 sittings.
There is also an Evangelical Union chapel. There
are a Free church school, a United Presbyterian
school, two industrial, and six private schools.
Before the Reformation, there were two chapels for
public worship in this parish ; one where the pre-
sent church now stands, and the other upon the
lands of Treehorn, one end of which remains entire.
This chapel, with two acres of land adjoining tc
BELHAVEN.
144
BELLIE.
it, belonged to the monastery of Kilwinning, as
appears from a charter under the great seal, dated
1594.
The Tows of Beith stands on the road from
Paisley to Saltcoats about a mile east of the nearest
point of the Glasgow and Ayr railway, 4 miles west-
north-west of Dunlop, 5 north-east by north of
Dairy, and 11 south-west by south of Paisley. It
stands on an eminence, presents a jaunty appearance
from the railway, and commands an extensive view
of the surrounding country. The parish church is
a handsome building, with a tower. The lower
story of the town-house consists of shops ; hut the
upper story is a large hall, which is used as a public
reading-room, and as the court-room of justice of
peace courts, and sheriff small debt courts. The
town has three inns, — the Saracen's Head, the
Crown, and the Star; and it has branch-offices of
the Commercial Bank, the Union Bank, and the
Clydesdale Bank. It has also a reading-room, a pub-
lic library, and a bowling-green, — the last formed in
1S64. A branch railway from it to the Ci ofthead and
Kilmarnock line was authorized in 1865. Markets
are held on Fridays, and fairs four times a-year.
About the time of the Revolution or a little ear-
lier, Beith is said to have contained only 5 dwelling-
houses and the manse. But in 1759 it had about
700 examinable inhabitants, and in 1788 nearly
1,500. About the time of the union of the two
kingdoms, a trade in linen cloth was introduced
into this place, which became so considerable that
the Beith markets were frequented by merchants
from the neighbouring towns every week. About
the year 1730, the linen business, which had greatly
declined, was succeeded by a considerable trade in
linen-yarn. The Beith merchants purchased the
yarn made in the country around, and sold it to the
Paisley and Glasgow manufacturers. This trade,
when carried to its greatest extent, about the year
1760, is supposed to have amounted to £16,000
sterling yearly: and though it has long been upon
the decline, linen yarn is still a considerable article
of merchandise. From 1777 to 1789, the manufac-
ture of silk gauze was carried on to a great extent.
The present pursuits of manufacture and commerce
are remarkably various, and might almost be said to
comprise more or less of everything Scottish.
Leather-making and the corn-trade are prominent
in the town itself; and thread-making, flax-spinning,
and bleaching are prominent in the neighbouring
villages. Population in 1861, 3,420. Houses, 336.
BELHAVEN, a village in the parish of Dunbar,
Haddingtonshire. It stands about a mile west of
the town of Dunbar, but is included by the
parliamentary boundaries of that burgh. It is
intersected by the great post-road from Edinburgh
to Berwick, and is close upon the sea, at the head
of a small bay which in ancient times formed the
haven of Dunbar. It is the watering-place of
Dunbar; and in its vicinity are a number of
elegant villas. It gives the title of Lord to a
branch of the family of Hamilton. In 1647, Sir
John Hamilton of Broomhill was created Lord Bel-
haven and Stenton. The title is now borne by a
descendant of Hamilton of Wishaw. A strong sul-
?hurous spring was not long ago discovered here,
t contains sulphur and hydrogen gas in considerable
quantity ; the muriates of lime and soda ; and sulphate
and muriate of magnesia both in large quantity.
An attempt was made in 1815 to establish a cotton
factory at Belhaven, but failed. Population in 1861,
405
BELHELVIE, a parish, containing a post-office
station of its own name, on the coast of the Aberdeen
district of Aberdeenshire. It is bounded by the
German ocean, and by the parishes of Foveran,
New Machar, and Old Machar. Its greatest length,
northward, is 6 miles ; and its greatest breadth is 5
miles. The distance of its centre from Aberdeen is
about 7 miles. All the coast is a beach of fine sand,
flanked by bent-clad sand-hills. A narrow belt of
land lies beyond this, with sandy soil and sweet
short grass, kept always in pasture, and so nearly
level that the Government engineers for surveying
Scotland selected it for measuring their base line of
5 miles and 100 feet. The surface farther inland
rises gradually to the west, and is diversified with
small low hills and hilly ridges ; and the western
boundary is a continuous ridge, with summits of
about 800 feet above the level of the sea. A number
of rivulets rise in the interior; and there is an
abundance of springs of excellent water. There is
a great deposit of serpentine, called Portsoy marble
or Verde d'Ecosse, near Milldens. A great part of
this parish formerly belonged to the Earl of Panmure,
on whose forfeiture in 1715 it was purchased by the
York Building company. In 1782 it was again
sold, by order of the court of session, in sixteen dif-
ferent lots, since which partition a rapid improve-
ment has taken place on the district. The road from
Aberdeen to Peterhead and Fraserburgh passes
through the interior. Fairs, chiefly for the sale of
cattle, are held on the last Tuesday of April, old
style, on the day in July before Aikey, and on the
second Tuesday of October, old style. Population
in 1831, 1,621; in 1861, 1,807. Houses, 370. As-
sessed property in 1843, £7,317; in 1860, £9,054.
This parish is in the presbytery and synod of
Aberdeen. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £179 12s.
10d.; glebe, £10. Schoolmaster's salary is £50,
with £16 10s. fees and house and garden. The
parish church is an old building, and contains 519
sittings. There is a Free church at Belhelvie, and
the yearly sum raised in connexion with it in 1865
was £121 2s. 3d. There is an United Presbyterian
church at Sliiels, built in 1791, and containing 330
sittings. There are three non-parochial schools.
BELLA (The). See Lu&ak (The).
BELLADEOM. See Kjetarlity.
BELL-CRAIG. See Moffat.
BELLEVILLE. See Alvie.
BELLIE, a parish partly in Morayshire and
partly in Banffshire. The Morayshire section con-
tains the town of Fochabers ; and the Banffshire
section contains the villages of Auchinhalrig, Dal-
lachy, Bogmoor, and Tugnet, and apart of the Braes
of Enzie. The parish is bounded on the north by the
Moray frith, on the west by the river Spey, and on
other sides by the parishes of Eathven, Keith, and
Boharm. Its greatest length, northward, is nearly
6 miles; and its greatest breadth is nearly 4. A
considerable portion of the area is contained with-
in the ancient banks of the river Spey, which has
greatly shifted its channels at different periods. At
Gordon castle, which lies between the old and the
new course of the river, these banks are near a mile
distant from each other; but they gradually widen
in their approach to the sea, and where the river
falls into the frith, are nearly 2 miles asunder. This
district suffered severely during the great floods in
1829. Gordon castle, well known to be one of the
noblest palaces in Britain, and which attracts the
notice of all travellers, will be described in a separ-
ate article. About a mile north of Gordon castle,
and 3 south of the frith, on a high bank, is the
churchyard of Bel lie, where stood the parish church
till 1797. A capital salmon-fishery is here upon the
Spey, the yearly value of which, in 1860, was £2,519.
Value of all produce in 1842, £29,108. Assessed
property in 1860, £8,443. Population of the
BELL-ROCK.
145
BELTREES.
Banffshire section in 1831, 1,151; in 1861, 977.
Houses, 210. Population of the whole parish in
1831, 2,432; in 1861, 2,292. Houses, 500.
This parish is iu the preshytery of Strathbogie
and Synod of Moray. Patron, the Duke of Rich-
mond. Stipend, £181 ; glehe, £33. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50, with a share of the Dick bequest, and
with £40 a-year in lieu of school fees from the be-
quest of Alexander Milne, a native of the parish,
who died in America, and left about £20,0UU for
free schools in Bellie. A suite of schools, called
Milne's Institution, was built, from that bequest, at
Fochabers in 1843; is conducted by a rector, three
other masters, and a sewing mistress ; and forms a
splendid structure, in the Tudor style, with a com-
modious dwelling for the rector, who has a flourish-
ing boarding-school. The parochial school is now
at Bogmoor. The parish church is at Fochabers.
A Free church, an Episcopalian chapel, and a Roman
Catholic chapel also are at Fochabers; and a Roman
Catholic chapel is at Auchinhalrig. Yearly sum
raised at the Free church in 1865, £161 9s. Id.
BELL-ROCK, a reef in the German ocean for-
merly called The Scape, and the Inch Cape, situated
in 56° 26' N lat., and 2° 23' W long.; about
12 miles south-east of Arbroath, and 30 north-
west of St. Abb's Head; in the direct track of
navigation, to vessels entering either the frith of
Forth or the frith of Tay, and formerly much
dreaded by the mariner as the most dangerous spot
on the eastern coast of Scotland, or perhaps upon
the whole coast of Great Britain. The rock is a
red sandstone, apparently of the same formation with
the Redhead in Forfarshire, from which it is 11
miles distant. Its angle of inclination with the hori-
zon is about 15°, and it dips towards the south-east.
The reef is altogether about 2,000 feet in length,
of which at spring-tide ebbs a portion of about 427
feet in length, by 230 in breadth, is uncovered to a
height of about 4 feet ; but at high water the whole
is covered to the depth of 12 feet. At low water
of spring-tides, and at the distance of 100 yards all
round the rock, there are about 3 fathoms water.
Tradition relates that the abbots of the ancient mon-
astery of Arbroath caused a bell to be so fixed upon
the rock that it was rung by the motion of the waves,
and thus warned the mariner of impending danger:
it also adds that a Dutch captain carried away the bell,
and, as retribution for his offence, was afterwards
lost upon the rock, with his ship and crew. This
tradition, if we mistake not, forms the plot of a
popular melodrama.
The necessity of erecting a lighthouse upon this
rock was powerfully shown in the year 1799, when
about seventy vessels were wrecked upon the coast
of Scotland. The Commissioners of the Northern
Lighthouses took up the matter ; and, after many
preliminary arrangements, Mr. Stevenson, the
scientific engineer of the Lighthouse Board, erected
the present edifice from his own design, but on the
principle of the Eddystone Lighthouse, between the
years 1807 and 1811. All the stones were shaped
and prepared in the workyard at Arbroath ; and the
several courses having been dovetailed, and connect-
ed together by joggles of stone and oaken trenails,
the whole building, when erected upon the rock, and
properly fixed and cramped, was constituted into
one solid mass, from the centre to the circumference.
This lighthouse is of circular form, and built of
granite and sandstone ; the former being used for
the foundation and exterior casing, and the latter
for the interior work. The masonry is 100 feet in
height ; and including the light-room, which is of
cast-iron, the entire height is 115 feet. Its diame-
ter at the base is 42 feet, and at the top 13 feet.
The ascent from the rock to the entrance door,
which immediately surmounts the solid part of the
building (30 feet in height), is by a trap-ladder; and
thence to the first apartment, containing the water,
fuel, &c., of the light keepers, by a circular stair-
case. There are five apartments above the water-
room; the light-room store, the kitchen, the bed-
room, the library, and the light room itself. All the
windows have double sash frames glazed with plate-
glass, and protected by storm shutters ; for although
the light-room is full 88 feet above the medium level
of the tide, and is defended by a projecting cornice,
or balcony (with cast-iron network), yet the sea-
spray, in gales of wind, is driven against the glass
so forcibly, that it becomes necessary to close the
whole of "the dead-lights to windward. The light
room is of octagonal form, 15 feet high, and 12 feet
in diameter, and covered with a dome roof, sur-
mounted by a ball. The frame-work is of cast-iron,
and the plate-glass a quarter of an inch thick, and
measuring 2 feet 6 inches by 2 feet 3 inches. The
burners are argand, placed in the focus of silver-
plated reflectors, hollowed to the parabolic curve by
the process of hammering, each reflector measuring
24 inches over the lips. These reflectors are arranged
upon a frame with four faces, or sides, two of which
are fitted with shades of red-stained plate-glass. The
frame revolves upon a perpendicular axis, and thus
exhibits, alternately a red light and a bright natural
light ; and both kinds may be seen, in a clear at-
mosphere, at six or seven leagues distance. During
storms, or in foggy weather, the reflector machinery
is made to ring two large bells (each weighing about
12 cwt.), in order to warn the seaman of his danger,
when too nearly approaching the rock. The cost of
the whole pile was £61,331, toward which govern-
ment lent a sum of £30,000.
Sometimes the windows of the light-room are
broken by sea-birds. Thus about 10 o'clock on a
night of February, 1842, a large herring-gull struck
one of the south- east windows with such force, that
two of the plates of glass were shivered to pieces
and scattered over the floor, to the great alarm of the
keeper on watch and the other two inmates of the
house, who rushed instantly to the light -room.
An album is kept at the lighthouse, wherein a dis
tinguished poet wrote as follows :
"Pharos loquitur.
Far in the bosom of the deep.
O'er these wild shelves my watch I keep ;
A ruddy {rem of changeful lifrht
Bound on the dusky brow of night ;
The seaman bids my lustre hail.
And scorns to strike his timorous saiL"
BELLSHILL, a post-office village in the parish
of Bothwell, Lanarkshire. It is situated on the
south-west border of the great mineral-field of the
county ; and many of its inhabitants are colliers or
iron-workers. It stands 9 miles south-east of Glas
gow, on the road thence to Edinburgh by "Whitburn.
Here is an United Presbyterian church, with a
manse and glebe. Sittings in the church, 812 ; at
tendance, 650. Here also is a Congregational
chapel, with an attendance of about 200. Popula-
tion of the village in 1841, 1,013; in 1861, 2,945,
BELLSMAINS, a hamlet in the parish of Borth
wick, Edinburghshire.
BELLSQUARRY, a village in the parish of Mid
Calder, about 2 miles west of the town of Mid
Calder, Edinburghshire. Population, 120.
BELLSTOWN, a hamlet in the parish of Meth-
ven, Perthshire.
BELTREES (Newtown op), a hamlet in the
parish of Lochwinnocb, Renfrewshire. Population
58.
BELLYCLONE.
146
BENANOIR.
BELLYCLONE, a village in the parish of Ma-
derty, Perthshire.
BELLYMIEE. See Chiekside.
BELMONT, one of the Sidlaw hills, in Forfar-
shire, rising to the height of 759 feet above the level
of the sea.
BELMONT CASTLE. See Meigle.
BELMONT HOUSE. See Ukst.
BELNAHUA, an island in the parish of Jura,
Inner Hebrides, Argyleshire. It measures only
about a mile in circumference, and is almost a bar-
ren rock, but is valuable on account of its slate-
quarry, and has about 150 inhabitants.
BELRINNES, or Beneinnes. See Abeelot/k.
BELSES, a village and a station on the Edin-
burgh and Hawick railway, in the parish of An-
crum, Roxburghshire, 5 miles south of Newton St.
Boswells, and 7J north-north-east of Hawick.
BELTON, an ancient rectory in the shire of
Haddington, now comprehended in the parish of
Dunbar. It is situated on a small stream, the Biel,
at the distance of about 3 miles south-west of the
town of Dunbar.
BELTONFOED, a hamlet with a post-offiee; in
the parish of Dunbar, Haddingtonshire. It is situ-
ated 2£ miles west by south of the town of Dunbar,
on the road thence to Haddington.
BEMERSYDE. See Meeton.
BEN, a nigged mountain or hill. The word is
used as a prefix in very many descriptive Scottish
names, — whether of mountains, as Benmore, ' the
great mountain,' Benlaoidh, 'the mountain of the
fawns,' — or of tracts designated from hills, as Ben-
dochy, 'the hill of good prospect,' Benholme, 'the
hill of meadowy land.'
BENABHRAGIDH, a mountain in the parish of
Golspie, Sutherlandshire, in the vicinity of Dunrobin
castle, rising to 1,300 feet above sea-level. It is
composed of red transition sandstone and breccia.
BENABOURD, a mountain on the mutual border
of the parish of Crathie and Braemar, Aberdeenshire,
and the parish of Kirkmicbael, Banffshire. It is
adjacent to Benmacdhui, and forms one of the cul-
minating group of the eastern Grampians. Its alti-
tude above sea-level is 3,940 feet.
BENABOURD, a lofty mountain in the parish of
Glenorchy, Argyleshire.
BENACHALLY, a mountain in the north of Stor-
mont, Perthshire, about 5 miles north-east of Bir-
nam, having an altitude of 1,800 feet above the
level of the sea. On its northern side, at an elevation
of about 900 feet, is a lake about a mile in length,
and J a mile in breadth. In its eastern face is a large
cavern called the Drop, and having a continual
dropping of water from the roof. The summit of
the mountain commands a splendid view of Stor-
mont, of Strathmore, of a vast extent of the Gram-
pians, and of the inland side of the Sidlaws and
the Ochils ; it also commands remote, romantic,
and dim glimpses of the Pentlands and the Lam-
mermoors.
BENACHAOLIS. See Juea.
BENACHIE. See Bennoohie.
BENAGEN, a bulky mountain on the mutual
border of the parish of Boharm, Banffshire, and the
parish of Rothes, Morayshire, immediately east of
the Spey, and about 7 miles south of Fochabers.
BENALDER, a wild and lofty range of the cen-
tral Grampians, on the southern border of the parish
of Laggan and county of Inverness. It extends be-
tween Loch Laggan and Loch Ericht. It is as
lofty as the Monadhleagh range, and far more pic-
turesque. It was the favourite haunt of the red
deer or mountain stag previous to the introduction
r>f the sheep husbandry. Here, too, Prince Charles
Stuart lay concealed several weeks previous to his
escape from Scotland in the French frigate.
BENAN, a mountain in the parish of Straiton, in
Ayrshire, about half-a-rnile south of Straiton village.
Altitude 1,150 feet.
BENANOIR, one of the peaks of Jura, having
an altitude of 2,420 feet above sea-level, according
to Pennant, or 2,340 according to Dr. Walker.
Pennant ascended this mountain — which he calls
Beinn-an-6ir, or ' the Mountain of Gold ' — and de-
scribes the task as one of much labour and difficulty.
The best ascent to it is from the bay of the Small
isles, passing Corrabhain, the most precipitous but
lowest of the cluster. It is composed, Pennant
says, " of vast stones, slightly covered with mosses
near the base, but all above bare, and unconnected
with each other. The whole seems a cairn, the
work of the sons of Saturn ; and Ovid might have
caught his idea from this hill, had he seen it.
Affectasse ferunt regnum celeste gigantes,
Altaque congestos struxisse ad sidera montes.
Gain the top, and find our fatigues fully recompensed
by the grandeur of the prospect from this sublime
spot. Jura itself afforded a stupendous scene ot
rock, varied with little lakes innumerable. From
the west side of the hill ran a narrow stripe of rock,
terminating in the sea, called the Slide of the Old
Hag. Such appearances are very common in this
island and in Jura, and in several parts of North
Britain, and the north of Ireland, and all supposed
to be of volcanic origin, being beds of lava of
various breadths, from three feet to near seventy.
Their depth is imknown; and as to length, they run
for miles together, cross the sounds, and often ap-
pear on the opposite shores. They frequently
appear three or four feet above the surface of the
ground, so that they are called on that account
whin-dikes, forming natural dykes or boundaries.
The fissures were left empty from earliest times.
It is impossible to fix a period when some tremen-
dous volcanic eruption happened, like that which of
late years infested Iceland with such fatal effects,
and filled every chasm and every channel with the
liquid lava. Such a stream poured itself into these
fissures, and having cooled and consolidated, re-
mains evident proofs of the share which fire had in
causing the wondrous appearances we so frequently
meet with and so greatly admire. In a certain bay
in the isle of Mull, there remains a fissure which
escaped receiving the fiery stream. The sides are
of granite: the width only nine or ten feet; the
depth not less than a hundred and twenty. It
ranges north by west, and south by east to a vast
extent ; and appears against a correspondent fissure
on the opposite shore. In the Phil. Trans. Tab. iv.
is a view of this tremendous gap, together with the
two stones which have accidentally fell, and re-
mained hitched near the top of the northern extre-
mity. These, and numbers of other volcanic
curiosities in the Hebrides, are well-described by
Abraham Mills, Esq. of Macclesfield, who in 1788
visited several of the islands, and in the Ixxxth vol.
of the Phil. Trans, has favoured the public with his
ingenious remarks. To the south appeared Islay,
extended like a map beneath us ; and beyond that,
the north of Ireland; to the west, Gigha and Car,
Cantyre, and Arran, and the frith of Clyde bounded
by Ayrshire ; an amazing tract of mountains to the
north-east as far as Benlomond; Skarba finished
the northern view; and over the Western ocean
were scattered Colonsay and Oransay, Mull, Iona,
and its neighbouring group of isles; and still
farther the long extents of Tiree and Col just
apparent. On the summit are several lofty cairns.
BENAVEN.
147
BENCRUACIIAN.
not the work of devotion, but idle herds, or curi-
ous travellers. Even this vast heap of stones was
not uninhabited ; a hind passed along the sides
full speed, and a brace of ptarmigans often favoured
us with their appearance, even near the summit.
The other paps are seen very distinctly: each infe-
rior in height to this, but all of the same figure,
perfectly mammillary. Mr. Banks and his friends
mounted that to the south, and found the height to
be 2,359 feet; * but Beinn-an-6ir far overtopped it:
seated on the pinnacle, the depth below was tremen-
dous on every side. The stones of this mountain
are white (a few red), quartzy, and composed of
small grains; but some are brecciated, or filled with
crystalline kernels of an amethystine colour. The
other stones of the island that fell under my obser-
vation, were a cinereous slate veined with red, and
used here as a whetstone ; a micaceous sandstone;
and between the small isles and Ardefin, abundance
of a quartzy micaceous rockstone."
BENANTUIRC. See Bare, Argyleshire.
BENARMIN. See Sutherlandshire.
BENARTHUR. See Aekoquhar.
BENARTIE. See Poktmoak and Kinross-shihe.
BENAVEN, a mountain in the south-west extre-
mity of Aberdeenshire, one of the noble group form-
ing the highest of the eastern Grampians. Its alti-
tude is estimated by Playfair at 3,931 feet; by some
others at 3,967 feet. See Aberdeenshire.
BENAW, a mountain in the parish of Glen-
bucket, Aberdeenshire. Its altitude above sea-level
is about 1,800 feet. The venerable but decaying
castle of Glenbucket, the seat of an ancient branch
of the Gordon family, stands on its declivity.
BENBECULA, a Hebridean island, in the parish
of South Uist, Inverness-shire. It lies between the
islands of North and South Uist, from the last of
which it is separated by a narrow channel nearly
dry at low water. It is a low flat island, measuring
about 8 or 9 miles each way. The soil is sandy
and unproductive. In the interior are several fresh
water lakes; and its shores are indented with an
endless variety of bays, and fringed with islands.
" The sea," says Maceulloch, " is here all islands,
and the land all lakes. That which is not rock is
sand; that which is not mud is bog; that which is
not bog is lake ; and that which is not lake is sea ;
and the whole is a labyrinth of islands, peninsulas,
promontories, bays, and channels." This island
was an ancient property of the chiefs of Clanranald;
but now belongs to Gordon of Cluny . A missionary
of the Royal Bounty resides on it. Here also was a
station of the Free church, but so poor that the total
of its yearly proceeds in 1853 was only £2 Is. 9d.
Population of the island in 1841, 2,107; in 1861,
1,485. Houses, 282. See Uist (South).
BENBEOC'H, one of the most prominent heights
in the mountainous ridge which occupies the lower
part of the parish of Dalmellington, in Ayrshire.
Part of it displays a magnificent basaltic colonnade ;
and some caves here, which were formed by fallen
columns, were the retreat of troops of foxes which,
not long ago, made great havoc among the flocks
and poultry of the surrounding country.
BENBREACH. See Uist (North).
BENBUI, a mountain in the parish of Inverary,
Argyleshire. It is the loftiest mountain in that
grandly picturesque region, having an altitude of
about 2,800 feet above sea-level.
BENBUI, a mountain on the south-western rim
of the basin of Lochlomond, Dumbartonshire, com-
manding a superb view of Lochlomond and its
* This must be Benshianta, or ' the Mountain of Enchant-
ment.' which is about <i0 feet lower.
screens, of Strathcndrick and the Buchanan high-
lands, of part of the vale of Levcn, of all the upper
frith of Clyde, and of the whole length of Glcnfruin.
BENCAIRN, a mountain in the parish of Rer-
wick, Kirkcudbrightshire, rising to the height of
1,200 feet above sea-level.
BENCHAPULL, the loftiest mountain in the
parish of Kilninver and Kilinelfort, Argyleshire,
commanding an extensive view to the north and
west, yet not higher than about 1,500 feet above
sea-level.
BENCHINNIN MOUNTAINS, that portion of
the Grampians which lies in Forfarshire. " None
of these mountains," says Headrick in his ' General
View of the Agriculture of Angus,' " are so abrupt
and majestic as many other alpine districts of Scot-
land, nor are they covered with such valuable herb-
age as falls to the lot of some. These mountains
are generally rounded and tame, are mostly covered
with a thin coat of moorish soil, and carry stunted
heath. Perhaps the only exception to this observa-
tion, are the mountains at the head of Glen Clova.
There the glen divides into two narrow defiles, and
the valley is bounded by a mountain which rises
abrupt and majestic, between the defiles into which
the glen divides. This, and the contiguous moun-
tains, exhibit bold and terrific precipices; and where
there is any soil, it is clothed with green and succu-
lent herbage. An observation of the late Dr.
Walker, Professor of Natural History, Edinburgh,
'that the steepest side of mountains, islands, and
continents, is chiefly towards the west,' — is in them
verified; the most abrupt declivity of these moun-
tains being towards the west. It is hence, that the
streams which arise in the west and north of the
county, run chiefly south-east, and receiving in
their progress innumerable torrents from the moun-
tains, are swelled into rivers before they reach the
ocean. These streams have scooped out consider-
able valleys among the mountains, the principal
of which are Glenisla, with its branches, on the
west, Glen Prosen, Clova, Lethnot, and Glenesk.
The Grampian district of this county is about 24
miles from west to east, and from 9 to 15 miles in
the opposite direction."
BENCHOCHAN, a mountain in the parish of
Aberfoyle, Perthshire, rising to the height of 3,000
feet above sea-level.
BENCHONZIE, a mountain of Perthshire, on the
mutual border of the parishes of Comrie and Moni-
vaird, having an altitude, according to Jameson, of
2,923 feet.
BENCHREACHAN, a mountain in the parish ol
Fortingal, Perthshire. It is one of the grand
masses of the Central Grampians, and has an alti-
tude of about 3,860 feet above the level of the sea.
BENCLEUGH, the highest of the Ochils, in the
parish of Tillicoultry, Clackmannanshire. It is
mostly composed of granite, containing large crys-
tals of black scheorl. It rises to the height of
2,352 feet above the level of the Devon, which runs
at its base ; and it commands one of the most exten-
sive and brilliant prospects in Scotland.
BENCLYBRIC, or Beixchlibrig, the highest
mountain in Sutherlandshire, on the skirts of the
parishes of Lairg and Farr. Its form is conical, and
its altitude about 3,157 feet.
BENCOCHAIL. See Ardchattan.
BENCROGHAN. See Uist (North).
BENCRUACHAN, a magnificent mountain of
Argyleshire, in the district of Lom, between Loch
Etive and Loch Awe. It has an elevation of 3,393
feet according to Jameson, or 3,390 feet according
to an admeasurement of Colonel Watson ; and its
base is 20 miles in circuit. Its steepest sido is to
BENDEAKG.
148
BENHOLME.
wards the north-east ; from the south it rises gently,
and may be ascended with considerable ease. Mae-
culloch says of it: "Compared to Benlomond it is
a giant ; and its grasp is no less gigantic. From
the bold granite precipices of its sharp and rugged
summit — which is literally a point — we look down
its red and furrowed sides into the upper part of
Loch Etive and over this magnificent group of
mountains, which, extending northward and east-
ward, display one of the finest landscapes of mere
mountains in the Highlands. Its commanding
position not only enables us thus to bring under our
feet the whole of this group as far as Appin and
Glencoe, and even to Ben-Nevis, but opens a view
of the whole of the eastern ocean of mountains,
reaching from Bannoch as far as Ben-Lawers and
Benlomond, and beyond them to lands which only
cease to be visible because they at length blend
with the sky. So marked also are their characters,
so rocky and precipitous their summits, and so va-
ried their forms, that this landscape excels, in variety
as in picturesque character, all other landscapes of
mere mountains, excepting perhaps that from Ben-
Lair in Ross-shire. The view which it yields, of
the opener country, is not much inferior to that
from Ben-Lawers, if indeed it is inferior; and, in
this respect, it can only be compared with that
mountain and Benlomond. While it looks down on
the long sinuosities of Loch Awe and over the irre-
gular lands of Lorn, bright with its numerous lakes,
it displays all the splendid bay of Oban and the
Linnhe Loch, with Jura, Isla, and all the other
islands of this coast; commanding, besides, the
horizon of the sea, even beyond Tiree and Coll, to-
gether with the rude mountains of Mull and the
faint and blue hills of Bum and Skye ; a scene as
unusual as it is rendered various by the intermix-
ture of land and water, by the brilliant contrast of
these bright and intricate channels with the dark
and misty mountains and islands by which they are
separated, and by the bold and decided forms of all
the elements of this magnificent landscape."
BENDEANAVAIG. See Porteee.
BENDEARG, a mountain 3,550 feet high, in
Athole, Perthshire. See Blair- Athole.
BENDEARGr, a mountain in the east of the par-
ish of Lochbroom, Boss-shire.
BENDEARG, a mountain-range on the west
coast of the parish of Durness, about 6 miles from
Cape Wrath, Sutherlandshire.
BENDOCHY, a parish in the north-east of
Perthshire. It comprises a lowland district and a
highland one, — the latter detached from the former,
at the distance of from 8 to 13 miles to the north-
west. The lowland district measures about 7 miles
in length from south to north, and has an extreme
breadth of about li mile. It is bounded by the
parishes of Alyth, Rattray, Blairgowrie, and Cupar-
Angus. Its post-town is Cupar-Angus, distant 2
miles from the church. It is partly skirted on the
east by the Isla, and is cut through the middle by
the Ericht. The greater portion of it is beautifully
variegated low ground ; but the upper portion com-
prises skirts of the Grampians, with an extreme
altitude of about 800 feet above the level of the sea.
There are four quarries of sandstone. Excellent
facilities of communication are enjoyed through the
near vicinity of the Scottish Midland Junction rail-
way The highland district of the parish consti-
tutes the peninsula between the convergent courses
of the Ardle and the Blackwater, and comprises a
mountainous ridge of an extreme height of probably
about 1,400 feet above the level of the sea. The
landed property of the parish lies distributed among
twenty- one heritors ; and the real rent of the arable
land is about £7,087. Population in 1831, 780 ; in
1861, 769. Houses 157. Assessed property in
1843, £6,950 16s. Id.; in 1865, £9,964 14s. Id.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the pres-
bytery of Meigle, and synod of Angus and Mearns.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £251 17s. 6d.; glebe,
£14. Church repaired in 1752 and 1803; sittings,
380. The highland district has been assigned to
the chapel of Persie : which see. Salary of par-
ochial schoolmaster now is £45, with about £10
fees. There are two private schools.
BENDONICH. See Lochgoilhead.
BENDORAN, a mountain in the parish of Glen
orchy, and eastern border of Argyleshire, a little
east of the efflux of the Orchy from Loch Tulla.
It is famous in Gaelic poetry. The name signifies
the mountain of otters.
BENEADDAN, a mountain in Morvern, Argyle-
shire. Its altitude is 2,306 feet above sea-level
BENEGIN. See Bexagex.
BENERARD. See Ballaxteae.
BENFAD, a range of mountains in the parish of
Glenshiel, Ross-shire, with pyramidal summits ris-
ing to the height of nearly 4,000 feet above sea
level.
BENGAIRN, one of the chief summits of a lofty
hill-range on the mutual border of the parishes oi
Kelton and Rerrick, Kirkcudbrightshire. It has a
height above sea-level of about 1,200 feet, and com
mands a brilliant view of the valley of the Dee, the
Solway frith, and the mountains of Dumfries-shire
and Cumberland.
BENGALL, a village in the parish of Dryfesdale,
Dumfries-shire. It stands adjacent to two hills,
which have vestiges of two ancient camps or foils,
the one British and the other Roman.
BENGHULBHUINN. See Glexshee.
BENGLOE, or Bexygloe, a mountain-range in
Athole, Perthshire. Its highest summit has an
altitude of 3,725 feet above sea-level. See Blair-
Athole and Tilt (The).
BENGRIANMORE. See Kildonan.
BENHILL. See Rathven.
BENHOLM, a parish, containing the post-town
and railway station of Johnshaven, in Kincardine-
shire. It is bounded by the German ocean, and by
the parishes of Bervie, Arbuthnot, Garvock, and
St. Cyrus. It is nearly square, and measures about
3 miles each way. The shore is low, rough, and
rocky, has been the scene of many shipwrecks, and
appears to be touched by a northward ocean-cur-
rent, as the bodies of several persons drowned in
the frith of Forth have been found on it. A strip of
land, of an average breadth of 300 yards, and almost
level with the sea, extends along the shore ; is all
part of an ancient sea-bottom ; consists partly of
shingle, more generally of sea-sand intermingled
with water-worn stones ; and, except at the site of
Johnshaven, has all been covered artificially with
soil, and made either pastoral or arable ; and a por-
tion of it was thus improved so late as 1863. The
ancient sea-margin, along the inner side of this
strip, is very distinctly marked, and is in some
places steep, in other places sloping. The ground
inward hence rises with unequal ascent toward the
north-west. A chain of little hills, whose summits
are covered with heath, runs along the south-west
boundary ; a ridge of hill, also covered with heath
and furze, forms part of the north-west boundary ;
and a rising-ground, called Gourdon hill, and attain-
ing an altitude of about 400 feet, terminates the \ iew
on the north-east. The interior tracts consist of
hill and dale; and hence the name Benholm, " ben"
a hill, " holm" a dale. About 400 or 500 acres are
under wood. The climate, particularly about
BENHOLME.
149
BENLAWERS.
Brotherton House and Jolinsliaven, is mild and salu-
brious. A fuBChia-tree, with a stem as thick as a
man's leg, has grown in Brotherton garden; and
figs ripen there in the open air. Fevers are never
known to prevail in Jolinsliaven, nor any epidemic
except smallpox and scarlatina. Fish and shell-fish
of various kinds abound on the coast. Fishing for
cod, haddocks, and other white fish is said to have
fallen off; herring-fishing, to a comparatively small
extent, is tolerably prosperous ; and salmon-fislung
by bag-nets has, of late, been carried on with
considerable success. Several tons of whelks,
gathered on the shore, and of crabs taken in creels,
are sent to London every season. Much land in
the upper district, formerly moor and waste, has
recently been reclaimed and made arable. The soil
of the lower district, to the breadth of 1A mile from
the shore, is veiy productive and early, and well
adapted for all sorts of crops ; but that of the upper
district is less fertile and later. The highest rent
per acre, in 1865, was £3 ; and the average rent
about £2 5s. There were then three estates, —
Brotherton, Benholm, and Knox; but about the be-
ginning of the 18th century, the greater part of the
property belonged to the Earl Marischal. A splen-
did baronial mansion was in the course of erection
at the end of 1865 by Mr. Seott, on his estate of
Brotherton, on the site of a previous house, which
had stood more than 200 years. A square tower, the
ancient residence of the family of Benholm, stands
in a peninsular situation ; is supposed to have been
built in the beginning of the loth century; appears,
from both its situation and its structure, to have
been intended for a place of strength ; and, though
not now inhabited, is still entire. A rough stone,
in the circumference of a stony circle, and common-
ly called the Cloaeh stone, is on the summit of a hill
bordering with St. Cyrus, and commanding an ex-
tensive prospect. It is more than a foot thick, mea-
sures 8 feet along the ground, and rises nearly 6
above its surface, in an inclined direction towards
the north. A battle is traditionally said to have
been fought near it ; a number of flint heads of
arrows have been found on the hill side below it;
and a great quantity of human bones have been
discovered between it and the coast, for nearly a
mile along the rising ground above Johnshaven,
within graves the bottom and sides of which were
lined with rough stones. An oblong cairn of stones, |
mixed with a black loam totally different from the
surrounding soil, is on the summit of Gonrdon hill,
facing the north-west, in view of the Grampians,
and is supposed to be the site, and to contain the
ashes, of ancient beacon-fires lighted for intimating
to the people of the interior hostile invasions of the
coast. The rocks of the parish are sandstone, con-
glomerate, and trap ; and their surfaces, wherever
exposed either naturally or by excavation, are found
to be all grooved and striated by glacial action, in
a direction uniformly from north-east by east to
south-west by west. Two sandstone quarries are
worked on the estate of Brotherton, and one on that
of Benholm ; and the stone from one of the former-
is the best building stone in the county. The spin-
ning of coarse linen or hemp for sacking employs a
number of women. The parish is traversed by the
road from Montrose to Aberdeen, and by the Mon-
trose and Bervie railway. Population in 1861, 1,574.
Houses, 362. Total rental in 1865-6, £6,617 Is. lOd.
This parish is in the presbytery of Fordoun, and
synod of Angusand Mearns. Patrons, Lord Cranston
and Scott of Brotherton. Stipend, £260 8s. 5d., with
manse and glebe valued at £42. Schoolmaster's sal-
ary, £45, with fees. The parochial church stands
nearly in the centre of the parish, was rebuilt in 1S32,
and contains 750 sittings. There is a Free church;
and the sum raised in connexion with it in 18G5 was
£180 14s. 2d. There is also, at Jolinsliaven, a U.
Presbyterian church. There are, at Jolinsliaven, a
Free church school, with an attendance of from 90 to
100, and a female school, with an average attendance
of 140. There is a freemasons' lodge.
BENHOPE, a noble mountain of Sutherland-
shire, towering to the height of 3,150 feet above
sea-level. It extends in a south-west direction
along the vale of Strathmore in the parish of Dur-
ness. It may be approached by the road leading
from the head of Loch Eribol to Loch Naver; or
from the head of Loch Hope, which stretches from
its western base towards Loch Eribol. It is com-
posed of quartz and grey slate.
BENHORN, a mountain in the parish of Golspie,
Sutherlandshire. Altitude 1,712 feet.
BENHUTIG. See Tongue.
BENKETLAN. See Ardchattan.
BENLAIR. See Makee (Loch).
BENLAOGHAL. See Tongue.
BENLAOIDH, or Benloy, a magnificent moun-
tain on the mutual borders of Perthshire and Ar-
gyleshire. It is situated at the head of Strathfillan,
about 4 miles south-west of Tyndrum. It forms the
western extremity of a chain which culminates in
Benmore and extends eastward to Killin; and at
the same time it projects two grand spurs into
Glenorchy, and is the loftiest summit connected
with that superbly highland district. Its name sig-
nifies ' the mountain of fawns.' The writer of the
New Statistical Account of Glenorchy says, " Though
now denuded and shorn of the woods which even at
a comparatively recent period clothed and adorned
its sides, Benlaoidh is one of the most elegant of
mountains in a district in which it is no easy matter
to adjust the competing claims of a host of rivals
for this distinction."
BENLAWEPvS, a mountain of Perthshire, in the
parish of Kenmore, on the north-east side of Loch
Tay. Its altitude is stated by some at 3,944 feet;
by others, at 4,015 feet above sea-level. It is easy
of ascent; so much so, that one may, in perfec't
safety, ride to the summit. Benlomond alone can,
probably, compete with this mountain for the gran-
deur of the view to be obtained from it. But a
much greater variety, and a greater range of coun-
try can be seen from Benlawers; and it has this ad-
vantage, that it towers over all the neighbouring
mountains, by more than 1,000 feet. Words cannot
express the magnificence and variety of the view
from Benlawers; but a faint conception of it may be
formed from the extent of country it embraces.
Looking to the south, Loch Tay, with all its orna-
ments of wood and field, lies at our feet, terminating
towards the west in the rich valley of Killin, and
joining eastward with the splendour of Strath- Tay.
Beyond the lake the successive ridges of hills em-
bosoming Stratheam, lead the eye to the Ochils
and the Campsie fells, and beyond even to Edin-
burgh. Dunkeld and its sceneiy are also distinctly
visible ; and we can make out, with ease, the bright
estuary of the Tay, the long ridge of the Sidlaw
lulls, and the plain of Strathmore. Westward, we
trace the hill-screens of Loch Lomond and Loch
Katrine, and, indeed, every marked mountain as far
asOban. Beneruachanand Buachaille-Etive are par-
ticularly conspicuous. To the north, Schichallion
and its adjoining mountains, with the valley of the
Tummel and Loeh-Eannoch, as far as Loch-Lag-
gan, which appears like a bright narrow line. In
this direction the eye is earned as far as Glencoe
and Bennevis, on the one hand ; while, on the other,
Benygloe lifts its complicated summit above the
BENLEDI.
150
BENLOMOND.
head of Ferrogon ; and, beyond this the mountains
of Man- and of Cairngorm, at the head of the Dee,
some of them marked with perpetual snow, are the
last that can he traced. This mountain abounds in
game, and also presents a most interesting field to
the botanist.
BENLEDI, a mountain of Perthshire, 2 miles
west of Callander, rising to 3,009 feet, according to
3ome, but according to others — and more correctly
we believe — to only 2,863 feet above sea-level. It
commands an extensive prospect of Stirlingshire and
the windings of the Forth.
BENLE VEN, or Isle of Benleven, the part of
Dumbartonshire which is peninsulated between
Lochlomond and the river Leven on the one side,
and the frith of Clyde, the Gareloch, and Lochlong
on the other. It comprehends the parishes of Luss,
Cardross, and Bow, and part of the parishes of Bon-
hill and Arroquhar.
BENLIGA, a mountain of 1,692 feet of altitude
above sea-level, in the parish of Stobo, Peebles-
shire.
BENLOMOND, a mountain renowned in song
and story, situated on the eastern bank of Loch-
lomond, in the parish of Buchanan, Stirlingshire.
Its altitude above sea-level is 3,192 feet. In every
view, it is an object of interesting grandeur. When
approaching it, — whether we advance from the lake,
or from its south-eastern base, — it is impossible to
do so without all the higher feelings of our nature
being excited. The journey to the top is long and
laborious — from the inn at Bowardennan it is about
6 miles; but the horizon extends at every step, and
the labour is richly repaid from the magnificence of
the view which it affords:
" It is the land of beauty, and of grandeur.
Where looks the cottage out on a domain
The palace cannot boast of, — seas of lakes,
And hills of forests. — Torrents here
Are bounding floods; and there the tempest roams
At large, in all the terrors of its glory,"
The lake, with its numerous islands, is spread out
beneath the feet of the traveller ; the cities of Edin-
burgh and Glasgow are seen sparkling in the sun-
beam; the whole county of Lanark, and the rich
vale of the Clyde, with all its towns and villages,
the hill of Tintock, and the distant mountains of
Cumberland, attract the eye towards the south. To
the west are seen the counties of Benfrew and Ayr,
the frith of Clyde, with the islands of Arran and
Bute, and beyond this the distant Atlantic and the
coast of Ireland ; on the east, the county of Stirling,
with the windings of the Forth, the fertile plains of
the Lothians, and the castles of Edinburgh and Stir-
ling. On the north the prospect is awfully sublime,
presenting mountain piled on mountain, — Bencrua-
chan towering above Benvoirlich and all his brethren
in the foreground, — and Bennevis rearing his still
loftier head in the extreme distance, while nearer at
hand are seen,
"Craigs, knolls, and mounds, confusedly burled,
The fragments of an earlier world,
And mountains, that like giants stand,
To sentinel enchanted land."
None meet the view, from the base of Benlomond
to the Western ocean. The northern side of this
mountain presents an aspect peculiarly terrific. Here
the mighty mass, which hitherto had appeared to be
an irregular cone placed on a spreading base, sud-
denly presents itself as an imperfect crater, with one
side forcibly torn off, leaving a stupendous precipice
of 2,000 feet to the bottom. Standing on the brink
of this tremendous precipice, from which most tra-
vellers recoil with terror, the spectator is above the
region of the clouds, which are seen floating in the
atmosphere beneath, or enveloping the sides of the
mountain. The effect of the rainbow, as seen from
hence, is "beautiful exceedingly." But when the
forked or sheeted lightning is beheld flashing below,
and the thunder heard, pealing and reverberating
among the mountains, the awful pomp and majesty
of the scene is heightened in an immeasurable de-
gree. The spectator, overwhelmed with sensations of
grandeur and sublimity, feels as if he had shaken off
for a time this mortal coil and all terrestrial impres-
sions, and were no longer a denizen of this nether
sphere. " In such a situation," says Dr. Stoddart,
"the most sublime sensations cannot be felt, unless
you are alone. A single insulated being, carrying
his view over these vast, inanimate masses, seems to
feel himself attached to 'them, as it were, by a new
kind of bond ; his spirit dilates with the magnitude,
and rejoices in the beauty of the terrestrial objects,
and,
— ' the near heav'ns their own delights impart.' "
In the summer months, this mountain is visited
by strangers from every quarter of the island, as well
as foreigners, who come to view the romantic scenery
of the highlands. The month of September is in gen
eral accounted the best for ascending it, because from
the cool temperature of the air, the horizon is then
less clouded by vapours than during the more intense
heats of summer. The old way of making a visit
to the summit, was to take a boat from Luss to Bow
ardennen, or cross over from Inveruglas, or be fer-
ried over from Tarbet. On a pane of glass, in the
window of this last-mentioned inn, or rather of the
old inn of Tarbet, some verses were written by an
English gentleman who had ascended Benlomond,
and was probably afterwards confined at Tarbet by
rain. Though these verses have been copied into
almost eveiy guide and tour-book, yet as they contain
some very good advice and instruction to those who
wish to ascend the mountain, and at the same time
possess a considerable share of merit, we shall take
the liberty of presenting them to our readers.
" Stranger ! if o'er this pane of glass perchance
Thy roving eye should cast a casual glance, —
If taste for grandeur, and the dread sublime,
Prompt thee Benlomond's fearful height to climb,—
Here stop attentive, nor with scorn refuse
The friendly rhymings of a tavern muse.
For thee the muse this rude inscription plaun'd,
Prompted for thee her humble poet's hand.
Heed thou the poet; he thy steps shall lead,
Safe o'er yon towering hill's aspiring head.
Attentive then to this informing lay,
Read how be dictates, as he points the way.
Trust not at first a quick adventurous pace.
Six miles its top points gradual from the base.
Up the high rise with panting haste I pass'd,
And gain'd the long laborious steep at last
More prudent thou, when once you pass the deep,
With measur'd pace and slow ascend the steep ;
Oft stay thy steps, oft taste the cordial drop,
And rest, oh ! rest, long, long upon the top.
There hail the breezes, nor with toilsome haste,
Down the rough slope thy precious vigour waste;
So shall thy wondering sight at once survey,
Vales, lakes, woods, mountains, islands, rocks, and sea,
Huge hills, that heaped in crowded order stand,
Stretch'd o'er the northern and the western land :
Vast lumpy groups 1 while Ben, who often shrouds
His lofty summit in a veil of clouds,
High o'er the rest displays superior state,
In proud pre-eminence, sublimely great.
One side, all awful, to th' astonished eye
Presents a steep three hundred fathoms high.
The scene tremendous, shocks the startled sense
In all the pomp of dread magnificence.
All this, and more Shalt thou transported see,
And own a faithful monitor in me.
Thomas Russell, Oct. 3, 1771."
Benlomond is chiefly composed of granite, inter-
spersed with great quantities of quartz. This last
BENLITNDIE.
151
BENMORE.
mineral is found near the top, in immense masses,
some of winch must weigh several tons ; these ap-
pear like- patches of snow upon the mountain, even
when seen from Luss. Considerable quantities of
micaceous schistus are found, even at the top, and
many rocks towards the hase of the mountain are
entirely composed of this mineral. Plovers abound
near the middle of the mountain, grouse a little
higher, and near the top ptarmigans are occasionally
seen. To the botanist, Benlomond affords a fund
of great amusement. As wo ascend, we find the
plants we had left below assume a very different ap-
pearanco, and some very rare and beautiful species
are found in abundance. The Alehemilla alpina, or
clnquefoil ladies mantle, grows upon all the upper
part of tho mountain. The Sibbalclia procumbens,
or procumhent silver-weed, distinguished by its tri-
dentate leaves, grows in great quantity, even on the
very summit. The Silene acaulis, or moss catebfly,
the leaves of which form a beautiful green turf, like
a carpet, which is variegated with a fine purple
flower, grows iu large patches. The Eubus chamse-
morus, or cloud-berry, is found in great quantities,
about half-way up the south-east side of the moun-
tain. The blossoms of this plant are of a purplish
white, succeeded by a bunch of red berries, which
are ripe in July, and have a flavour by no means
unpleasant. These berries are much esteemed by
many northern nations, but probably for want of
finer fruits. The Laplanders bury them under the
snow, and thus preserve them fresh from one year
to another. They bruise and cat them with the
milk of the rein-deer. The Azalea procumbens, or
trailing rosebay, the smallest of woody plants, was
first found here by Dr. Stuart of Luss, but is not
very plentiful. The Trientalis Europaia, or chick-
weed-wintergreen — the only British plant of the
class Heptandi'ia — grows in the woods near the base
of the mountain. The Pinguicula vulgaris, Nar-
thecium ossifragum, and Thymus acinos likewise
abound. Very near the inn of Eowardennan, are to
be found great quantities of the Drosera rotundifolia,
or round-leaved sundew, and Drosera Anglica, or
great sundew. These plants catch flies, by shutting
up their leaves, and crushing them to death ; in this
they resemble the Dionoea muscipula, or American
fly-eater.
At Craigrostan, on the western side of Benlo-
mond, is a cave to which tradition has assigned the
honour of affording shelter to King Robert Bruce,
and bis gallant followers, after his defeat by M'Dou-
gal of Lorn, at Dairy. Here, it is said, the Brace
passed the night, surrounded by a flock of goats ;
and he was so much pleased with his nocturnal as-
sociates, that he afterwards made a law that all
goats should be exempted from grass mail or rent.
Next day, tradition adds, be came to the Laird of
Buchanan, who conducted him to the Earl of Len-
nox, by whom he was sheltered for some time, till
he got to a place of safety. Craigrostan was in a
later age the property of the celebrated outlaw, Eob
Eoy M'Gregor; and north of it is a cave, said to
have been used by him as a place of refuge.
BENLOY. See Benlaoidh.
BENLOYAL. See Tongue.
BENLUIBHAN. See Lochgoilhead.
BENLUNDIE, a mountain of 1,464 feet of alti-
tude above sea -level, in the parish of Golspie,
Sutherlandshire.
BENMACDHU, or Bennamacduich, or Ben-
muicdhu, one of the Cairngorm group of mountains,
in the south-west comer of Aberdeenshire, estimat-
ed by Jameson at 4,300 feet in altitude ; by Mr. H.
C. Watson at 4,326 feet; and by others at 4,390
feet. If this last admeasurement be correct, Ben-
macdhu must be higher than Bennevis, hitherto re-
garded as the most elevated spot in great Britain.
The writer of a lively article on this mountain in
Chambers' Journal, after informing us that the at-
tempt to ascend a rough surface, at an angle of
about 25°, and to the height of some 2,000 or 3,000
feet, is no trilling matter, goes on to say: "Your eye
will teach you at a glance the most accessible mode
of ascent, which you will find to resemble a great ill-
constructed stair of unhewn blocks of granite, some
mile or so in length. By degrees you are introduced
to a different tract. The heather and long fern no
longer impede your progress; and you sometimes
walk over a deep-cushioned carpet of alpine mosses,
short and stunted, but rich in variety of colouring,
and fresh and moist from the recently melted snow ;
then you pass over a broad field of snow, hard as ice,
and under which, from a puny archway, trickles
some small stream which feeds the river beneath.
In the hottest noon of a sunimer-day, the summit is
cold and wintry ; the various gentle breezes which
fan the sides of the warm valleys will here be found
concentrated into a swirling blast, cold and piercing
as if it had sprung from the sea on a December morn-
ing; then the snow appears in large patches wher-
ever you look around you, and the bare surfaces ol
the rocks are deserted even by the alpine moss. We
know no mountain so embedded among others as
Benmacdhu. On all sides it is surrounded ; and the
eye, fatigued with tracing their distant outlines, feels
as if the whole earth were covered by such vast pro-
tuberances. Betwixt these hills, and over their
summits, you will see the clouds wandering about
like restless beings who have no fixed habitation.
Benmacdhu, stretching over a considerable space,
has many summits, and presents a vast variety of
aspects; but there is a certain part towards the
north-east where it turns itself into a basin, joining
the contiguous summits of Benaven and Benabourd,
and where it assumes a form peculiarly striking and
grim. Here one rock distinguishes itself from its
brethren by displaying a pointed needle from a
summit of vast height, which appears considerably oft'
the perpendicular, and hangs its head over the glen
below. Betwixt this wild height and another bolder
and broader, there is a deep fissure, down which
tumbles a considerable stream, which, after forming
itself into Loch Aven, descends to join the Spey."
BENMAIGH, a noble isolated mountain, at the
head of Lochbuy, south end of Mull, Argyleshire.
BENMORE, the highest mountain in Mull. It
lies between the head of Loch-na-keal and Loch
Sereidan. Macculloch says : ' ' The ascent is neither
veiy tedious nor difficult. I found it to be 3,097
feet high. The view is various and extensive.
Staffa, Iona, the Treshinish isles, Coll and Tiree,
with Ulva, Gometra, Colonsa, Eorsa, and other ob-
jects, are seen beautifully diversifying the broad face
of the western sea, distinct as in a map : while, to
the southward, Scarba and Jura, with the smaller
isles of the Argyleshire coast, recede gradually in
the distant haze. The rugged surface of Mull it-
self, excludes the objects to the eastward ; but Loch
Sereidan forms a beautiful picture beneath our feet ;
its long and bright bay deeply intersecting with its
dazzling surface the troubled heap of mountains."
BENMORE, a noble mountain of 3,903 feet of
altitude above sea-level, in the parish of Killin,
Perthshire. See Killin.
BENMORE, a mountain-range, with pyramidal
summits, nearly 4,000 feet above sea-level, in the
parish of Glenshiel, Ross-shire.
BENMORE, a mountain in the parish of Lochs,
island of Lewis, Ross-shire, — celebrated in old hunt-
ing-songs of the Outer Hebrides.
BENMOEE.
152
BENORMEW
BENMORE, a mountain-range in the parish of
Dunoon, Argyleshire. It rises abruptly and boldly
from the valley of the Eaehaig, and from the west
side of Loch Eck, and also screens the north side of
Glenmassan. It has an altitude of about 2,500 feet
above sea-level, and is supposed to be the highest
mouutain of Cowal.
BENMOEE, a mountain 2,310 feet high in the
island of Rum, Argyleshire.
BENMORE, one of the chief summits of a moun-
tain range on the north end of the island of North
Uist, Inverness-shire. See Uist (Nokth).
BENMORE, or Conval, a mountain of about
3,230 feet of altitude above sea-level, in the parish
of Assynt, Sutherlandshire. See Assynt.
BENMUICDHU. See Bexjiacdhu.
BENNABOURD. See Benabourd.
BEN-NA-CAILLIACH. See Broadford.
BENNAN. See Benak.
BENNANAIGHEAN. See Aedchattan.
BENNETSTON, a village in the parish of Pol-
mont, Stirlingshire. Population in 1841, 642. See
Polmont.
BENNEVIS, a sublime mountain in the parish of
Kilmalie, immediately south-east of Loch Eil at Fort
William, in the south-west extremity of Inverness-
shire. Its summit has an altitude of 4,406 feet
above sea-level; and its circumference at the base
is supposed to exceed 24 miles. "The circuit or
outline of the mountain all round," say the Messrs.
Anderson in their Guide to the Highlands, "is well
denned, for it is almost completely isolated by two
yawning ravines, and separated from the adjoining
lofty mountain-ranges, and projects boldly in front
of them. The base of Bennevis is almost washed
by the sea; none of its vast proportions are lost
to the eye, and hence its appearance is peculiarly
imposing; while the sky- outline, which is not
peaked, but plain and tabular, deviating but little
from a right line, admirably harmonises with its
general massiveness and majesty. Its northern
front consists of two grand distinct ascents or ter •
races, the level top of the lowest of which, at an ele-
vation of about 1,700 feet, contains a wild tarn or
mountain lake. The outer acclivities of this, the
lower part of the mountain, are veiy steep, although
covered with a short grassy sward, intermixed with
heath; but at the lake this vegetable clothing ceases.
. . On the north-eastern side of Bennevis, a broad
and tremendous precipice, commencing at the summit,
reaches down to a depth of not less than 1,500 feet.
The furrows and chasms in the black beetling rocks
of this precipice are constantly filled with snow, and
the brow of the mountain is also encircled with an
icy diadem. From the summit, the view, as will
readily be conceived, is remarkably grand and ex-
tensive. The astonished spectator, who has been so
fortunate as to reach it free of its frequent robe of
clouds, descries towards the south and east, the blue
mountains of Bencruachan, Benlomond, Benmore,
Benlawers, Schehallion, and Cairngorm, with a
thousand intermediate and less aspiring peaks. On
the other sides, his eye wanders from the distant
hills of Caithness to the remote and scarcely dis-
cernible mountains of the Outer Hebrides. Numer-
ous glens and valleys lie to the south, but they are
hidden from observation; and to the utmost verge
of the horizon, countless mountains of all sizes and
shapes, heathy, rocky, and tempest -worn, extend
before the eye, as if the waves of a troubled ocean
had, in their commotion, been turned into stone.
Looking towards the other points of the compass,
we meet with more variety ; the silvery waters of
Loch Eil, Loch Liunhe, and Loch Loehy, of the At-
lantic and German oceans, rendering the vast pros-
pect more cheerful and brilliant. It may safely be
said, that every point of the horizon is 120 miles
removed from the spectator.
" Bennevis, in its geological structure, very
clearly exhibits the successive elevation of moun-
tain masses by volcanic agency. It consists of
three great zones of rock, the fundamental one be-
ing gneiss and mica- slate, through which an en-
ormous iroiption of granite, forming now the lower
half of the mountain, bursts forth. At a subsequent
period, a new summit of black compact felspar rocks
(the principal member being a porphyritic green-
stone) was projected from below through the centre
of the granite, shooting up beyond it at a high
angle, and now constituting, as similar rocks do
elsewhere, the loftiest rocky pinnacle in the coun-
try. The older masses are, in many places, traversed
by veins of the superior rocks." "The summit,"
says Dr. Maeulloch, "is utterly hare, and presents
a most extraordinary and unexpected sight. If any
one is desirous to see how the world looked on the
first day of creation, let him come hither. Nor is
that nakedness at all hyperbolical ; since the surfaces
of the stones are not even covered with the common
crustaceous lichens; two or three only of the shrubby
kinds being barely visible. It is an extensive and
flat plain, strewed with loose rocks, tumbled together
in fragments of all sizes, and, generally, covering the
solid foundation to a considerable depth. While
these black and dreary ruins mark the power of the
elements on this stormy and elevated spot, they
excite our surprise at the agencies that could thus,
unaided by the usual force of gravity, have ploughed
up and broken into atoms, so wide and so level a
surface of the toughest and most tenacious of rocks.
Certainly Nature did not intend mountains to last
for ever; when she is so fertile in expedients as to
lay plans for destroying a mountain so apparently
unsusceptible of ruin as Bennevis Situated in the
midst of this plain, whence nothing but clouds and
sky are visible, the sensation is that of being on a
rocky shore in the wide ocean ; and we almost listen
to hear its waves roar, and watch as if for the break-
ing of the surge, as the driving rack sweeps along
its margin. As the clouds began te close in around,
curling and wheeling over head, and hurrying up in
whirlwinds from the deep and dark abysses which
surround it, a poetical imagination might have
imaged itself on the spot where Jupiter overthrew
the Titans; the bulk, the apparent freshness, and
the confusion of the fragments, resembling a shower
of rocks just discharged by a supernatural power
from the passing storm. The wild and strange sub-
limity of this scene is augmented by the depth of the
surrounding precipices, whence the eye looks down
into interminable vacancy, on the mists that are
sailing in mid air, or into the ragged depths of
chasms, black as night, impenetrable to the eye or
to the light of day." The ascent of the mountain
is both difficult and dangerous, and ought not to be
attempted without a guide, or by any but strong
healthy persons, who have been accustomed to feats
of climbing.
BENNOCHIE, a mountain in Aberdeenshire,
situated between Alford and Garioch, and stated by
Dr. Keith, in his ' Survey of Aberdeenshire,1 to havo
an altitude of 1,440 feet. The chief peculiarity or
Bennochie is its bold peaks, which communicate to
it, when viewed from certain points, a remarkably
grand and striking aspect. The mass of the moun-
tain consists of a reddish granite, traversed from
north to south by great dykes of porphyry.
BENORMIN, a great mountain on the mutual
border of the parishes of Farr and Kildonan, Suther-
landshire.
BENREISIPOLL.
15)3
BERIGON1UM.
BENRADH. Sec Reay.
BEXRF1S1POLL, a mountain in Sunart, Argyle-
shire, estimated by Sir James Riddell, Bart., at 2,601
feet in elevation.
BEXRIXXES. See Abeklodb.
BEXSHTAXTE. See Benanoir.
BEXSTACK, a conical mountain, nearly 3,000
feet high, between Glenstaek and Loch Stack, in
the parish of Edderachyllis, Sutherlandshire.
BENSTAEIVE, a massive and picturesque moun-
tain, at least 2,500 feet high, on the east side of the
upper part of Loch Etive, parish of Ardchattan.
Argyleshire.
BEXTALUIDII. See Torosay.
BEXTARX. See Argyleshire.
BEXTHIOLAIRE. See Lochgoilhead.
BENTS, a station on the Wilsonton railway, 4J
miles south of Bathgate.
BENVALLA, a mountain, 1,850 feet in height
above sea-level, in the parish of Stobo, Peebles-shire.
BEXVEXUE, a grandly picturesque mountain on
the south bank of Loch Katrine, and north side of
the parish of Aherfoyle, Perthshire. See Katrine
(Loch).
BEXVIE, a village in the parish of Liff and Ben-
vie, Forfarshire, Population in 1841, 60. See
Liff and Bexvie.
BENVIGORY, the loftiest hill on the east side of
the island of Islay, Argyleshire. A severe engage-
ment was fought here by the Macdonalds and the
Macleans, when contesting the possession of the
island.
BEXVOIRLICH, a magnificent mountain in the
parish of Arroquhar, 2J miles from the head of
Lochlomond, Dumbartonshire. See Arroquhar.
BEXVOIRLICH, a mountain, about 3,300 feet in
height above sea-level, on the west border of the
parish of Comrie, 3 miles south of the head of Loch
Earn, Perthshire. It commands a very extensive
view.
BEXVRACKY, a mountain in Perthshire, which
terminates the vale of Athole on the one hand, and
the strath of Garry on the other. The view from
its summit is one of the most beautiful and extensive
in the alpine sjenery of Scotland. Though this
mountain is about 30 miles from Perth, a good eye
can discern from it, in a favourable day, not only the
bridge, but the steeples, and some of the more pro-
minent objects in the neighbourhood of that city.
Its height has been determined to be 2,756 feet
above the level of the sea.
BEXVRAICK. See Buchanan.
BENWYVIS, or Bexuaish, a huge mountain in
the parishes of Kiltearn and Fodderty, Ross-shire,
having an elevation of 3,426 feet according to the
New Statistical Account, but of 3,722 feet according
to Mr. C. Schmidt's admeasurement. It is visible
in the shires of Nairn and Banff, and from Inver-
ness. It is seldom without snow on its summit
even in mid-summer; and, in one of the charters of
Fowlis, the forest of Uaish is held of the Crown on
condition of presenting at court a snow-ball, or, as
some say, three wain-loads of snow, gathered from
the top of this mountain, on any day in the year on
which they may be required. Its outline presents
an enormous lateral bulk like a hay-stack; its sum-
mit where free from snow, is covered with soft
green sward. It has never been entirely free from
snow in the memory of man, except in September,
1826.
BEXYGLOE. See Bexgloe.
BERBETH. See Straiton.
BERIGOXIUM, the supposed site of the capital
of Dalriada, near the beach of the Atlantic, about 4
miles north of Dunstaffnage, parish of Ardchattan,
Argyleshire. It comprises a double-topped rocky
eminence, and a piece of contiguous plain. " Both
the flattened summits," say the Messrs. Anderson
in their Guide to the Highlands, "are girt with a
vitrified wall, strongly defined, and m some parts
exposed, to a height of 8 feet. This rock is vulgarly
called Dun Mac Snichan. Either area is an irregu-
lar oblong, measuring respectively 160 and 100
paces circumference. They are separated by an in-
terval of 120 paces. The rock is barely accessible,
except at one end where it is defended by a second
wall, and at another spot about the middle of one
side, where a broad gap affords a steep approach.
The adjoining cliff is called Dun Bhail an Righ, 'the
hill of the king's town.' From the foot of the cliffs,
a straight raised way, said to have been at one time
paved and called Straid-mharagaid, 'the market
street,' proceeds along the top, and at a few yards
distance from the edge of the steep green bank
which lines the beach leading to Dun Mac Snichan.
It is about ten feet broad, and, where best defined,
of a like height. Some years ago a stone coffin, an
urn, and a sandal were found in the ground behind.
A hollow log of wood, turned up at an early period,
was readily construed, by the sticklers for the regal
associations fondly attached to this spot, into a rem-
nant of the water-pipes of the city. At the base of
the cliff is a small burying ground, an ancient cell
or chapel, from which the 'street' or paved way
communicated most likely with the sea-shore oppo-
site Dunstaffnage or with the vitrified site, and
which, therefore, was in all likelihood only a pro-
cession road during Christian times to the religious
sanctuary." A claim is made for this place to be
also the Selma of Ossian, — and likewise the site of
a fortress built by the first Fergus of Scotland.
"This castell," we are told, "standis in the west
part of Scotland foment the His, quhare he exercit
his lawis to that fyne, that his pepyl micht be draw-
in the more esaly for exercitioun of justice." But
however well the locality connects with the Fin-
galian heroes, it cannot be connected by the slight-
est show of evidence with the first Fergus, nor by
anything like satisfactory evidence with the capital
of the Dalriads. "It is beyond a doubt," remarks
Dr. Jamieson, " that the term Berigonium, also
written Beregomum, is a misnomer. There is not a
vestige, in the language or traditions of the country,
that this castle ever bore a name that had the
slightest resemblance of this. It has been supposed,
that Boece, finding Rerigonium mentioned by
Ptolemy, had not only read it erroneously, but, in
consequence of the false position given to our coun-
try in the map, had viewed a town or castle in Gallo-
way as belonging to Argyle. We learn, however,
from Camden, that the oldest edition of his Geo-
graphy, printed at Rome, A. 1480, gives Berigoni-
um, which he views as the modern Bargeny in Car-
rick. The only Gaelic name, by which the pre-
tended Berigonium is known, is Dun-Mac-Sniochan,
or Dun-Macsnichan. As Suiochan is supposed to
be a patronymic, the designation may signify, ' the
fortified hill of the son of Suiochan, or Snachan.' It
is by no means improbable that this name had ori-
ginated in a later era than that of the erection of
the kingdom of the Dalriads ; as it will be found
that, in many instances, the name borrowed from
posterior occupants supersedes that of those who
preceded them. This holds as to a variety of camps
or fortifications, usdoubtedly Roman or British,
which are by the tradition of the country called
Danish ; as having been possessed by these north
ern invaders at a later period. The name Sniochan,
or Snachan, has more appearance of relationship to
Xorwegian, than to Celtic nomenclature. For, in
BERNERA.
154
BERNERA.
the Danish memorials, "we meet with Snig-ur, or as
otherwise written Snio, in Latin hearing the form
of Snigon-is in the genitive, as the name of a north-
ern prince.
BERNARD'S (St.). See Edikbuesh.
BERNERA, the southernmost of the group of is-
lands, constituting the Hebridean parish of Barra,
Inverness-shire. See Babea. Bernera is 1 mile
long and J of a mile broad. It is a mass of gneiss,
with the north-western part dipping into the water,
and the south-eastern exhibiting an abrupt section
rising to the height of above 500 feet. The cliffs
on this side are greatly varied in outline, — inclin-
ing, perpendicular, and projecting, — smooth, largely
fissured, or minutely intersected, — here overhang-
ing the deep in a jutting mass, — there forming a
retiring cove terminating above in a perpendicular
fissure, and below in a gloomy cavern, the abode of
the dark- winged cormorant. In the summer-months
these cliffs are inhabited by prodigious numbers of
kittiwakes, guillemots, auks, and puffins. The na-
tives of the island derive a plentiful supply of ex-
cellent food from the nests of these birds, first rob-
bing them of the eggs, and afterwards of the young.
They also procure abundance of puffins by dragging
them from the holes in which they breed at the sum-
mits of the cliffs. One who has not seen some of
the great breeding-places of the Hebrides, can hardly
form an idea of the prodigious swarms of birds by
which they are frequented. When the wind blows
strongly from the south or south-east, some of the
birds in flying to the cliffs are frequently carried in-
land over the summit — which in this island is pretty
even — to a small distance, when they wheel about
and regain their nests. This happens especially to
the puffins, which always nestle near the tops of the
rocks. The natives, aware of this circumstance,
take advantage of it for procuring these birds. A
man lays himself upon his back, close to the edge of
the cliff, with his head to the sea, and having in his
hands a stout fishing-rod, or light spar, which is
directed over his head toward the sea, and projects
in part beyond the edge of the rock. He remains
patiently in this state until a bird, driven over him
by the force of the wind, comes within reach, when
he suddenly raises the rod, and dexterously hits it,
which long practice enables him to do with precision.
The bird of course falls, and is immediately secured.
The man resumes his expectant position, and in this
manner procures a very considerable number of
puffins and auks, when the weather is favourable to
the operation. This method of procuring birds is
practised only in the island of Bemera, none of the
other breeding-places in the Hebrides happening to
be so constructed as to admit of it. The lighthouse
on this island is noticed in the article Baeea-Head.
Population of Bernera in 1841, 30; in 1861, 34.
Houses, 6.
BERNERA, an island in the quoad civilia parish
of Harris, Outer Hebrides, Inverness-shire. It lies
in the Sound of Harris, about 1 mile north of North
Uist, and 5 miles south-south-west of Pabbay. Its
length is about 3J miles, and its breadth about 2
miles. A government church was built here in
1829; and was constituted a quoad sacra parish
church by the Court of Teinds in June 1845. The
minister of it has charge of all the islands in the
Sound of Hams. There is a Free church for Trum-
isgarry and Bernera ; and the yearly sum raised in
connexion with it in 1853 was £3 Is. Population
of Bernera island in 1841,713; in 1861, 315. Houses,
64. Population of Bemera quoad sacra parish in
1851, 1,051.
BERNERA, an island in the parish of Uig, Outer
Uebrides, Ross-shire. It lies on the west side of
Lewis between two inlets of the sea, called Loch
Bemera and Loch Roag. It is about 8 miles in
length, by 2 in breadth ; and is surrounded by an
archipelago of islets, amongst which is one to the
west of Bemera, known as little Bernera. Near
the shore of the larger Bernera are some interesting
monuments, of the kind commonly called Druidical :
the remains of three stone circles. The principal,
and by far the most perfect of them — one of the
most remarkable in form and extent in the British
isles — stands on the brow of a promontory over-
hanging the bay, striking the eye at a considerable
distance, like a cemetery of thickly-clustered tomb-
stones. We are indebted to Dr. Macculloch for the
following description of it. " The general aspect
of this structure is that of a cross, nearly of the
proportions of the Roman crucifix, with a circle at
the intersection. But a nearer inspection discovers
more than is essential to that form. The largest
line lies in a direction of about twenty-four degrees
west of the true meridian, or pretty nearly in that
of the magnetic variation at present, which is there-
fore the general bearing of the work. Great stones
intermixed with some that have fallen, and with
blank spaces whence they may have been removed,
or where more probably they are covered by the
soil, are found along this line, for the space of 588
feet, including the circle ; their number amounting
to fourteen, and eleven of them being still erect.
If we were allowed to fill up the blanks according
to the general proportions of the intervals between
those that remain, the number would be twenty
within that distance. But following the direction
of this line further on, there are indications of other
stones, all of them fallen, and nearly covered by
earth and vegetation, that would justify us in ex-
tending it ninety feet or more, further ; thus making
the total length about 680 feet. Parallel to the long
leg of the cross, and to that only, is another line,
now far less perfect that the first, since it contains
only three erect and seven fallen stones, and reaches,
as far as I could discover, only to 480 feet. Thus
these two lines may be conceived to form a sort of
avenue to the circular enclosure ; its breadth being
exactly equal to a semi-diameter of the circle, as
the additional line touches the edge of this. The
shorter line of the cross, at right angles to the other,
now measures 204 feet, including the circle ; but as
it is longer on one side than the other, its original
length has probably been greater, though I was un-
able to detect any traces of fallen stones ; the pro-
gress of some enclosures having here interfered
with the integrity of the work. This line contains
ten erect stones. The diameter of the circle is sixty-
three feet from north to south, and sixty-two from
east to west, and it contains fourteen erect stones
in the circumference, with one in the centre. This
central stone is twelve feet high ; one near the end
of the long line measures thirteen, a few are found
reaching to seven or eight, but the height of the
greater number does not exceed four. The intervals
between the stones vary from two to ten yards, hut
the larger ones are probably the consequence of the
loss of those which once occupied these places. I
ought to add that the total number of stones which
I could discover, either erect or recently fallen, is
forty-eight ; and that if the whole rank were com-
plete, as it appears originally to have been built,
they would amount to sixty-five or sixty-six."
" My measurements," says Lord Teignmouth, " did
not entirely coincide with those here stated ; but on
the whole they are doubtless accurate. The recent
removal of the peat-moss, in which the stones are
half buried, from the sides of one of them, exhibits
not only the surprising growth of this vegetable
BERRIEDALE.
155
BEBVIE.
production, on a height where it could not receive
any alluvial contributions, or deposit of extraneous
decayed vegetable matter, but also the method em-
ployed by the rude architects who erected them, to
fix them on those bases on which they have remained
unmoved for centuries. The stone is inserted in a
hole, filled up with small loose fragments of the
same material. The elevation of the stones of the
central circle must have amounted to thirty feet
above the ground. Where exposed to view, the
substance is as white as a bleached bone, contrast-
ing singularly with the gray hue produced by the
atmosphere. The fanciful conjecture of Toland re-
specting this structure, which I have read detailed
in an Encyclopedia, is ridiculed by Dr. Macculloeh.
The circular or oval form of these edifices was se-
lected, no doubt, as best adapted to the purpose for
which they were erected, and not with reference to
the signs of the zodiac, as the number of stones in
the circle varies indefinitely. The extensive appen-
dage to the circle at Caleruish, which distinguishes
it from other circles, consists of the four avenues of
stones directed towards it, from the four principal
points of the compass, and is also so simply con-
structed that its origin may be accounted for with-
out imputing to the architect an astronomical de-
sign exhibited in no other structure of the same
kind. The other two circles in the neighbourhood
are composed of much smaller stones : one is incom-
plete, the other has a double row still standing, and
arranged in an oval form. The people have no tra-
dition respecting them."
BERRIEDALE, a small river of the parish of
Latheron, Caithness-shire. It rises near the boun-
dary with Sutherlandshire, runs eastward on the
northern side of Morvern and the Maiden-Pap, for
about 10 miles, and then turns to the south-east,
and flows into the small bay on which the village
of Berriedale is situated, forming there a confluence
with the water of Langwall, which is also an alpine
stream flowing from the west. There is a good
salmon-fishery in the bay. The country included
between the two rivers consists of a group of huge
dark mountains. Both of the rivers are very small
in summer, but large and impetuous in winter.
BERRIEDALE, a village with a post-office, in a
quoad sacra parish of its own name, within the
quoad civilia parish of Latheron, Caithness-shire.
It stands at the mouth of the Berriedale and Lang-
wall rivers, and on the road from Wick to Inverness,
7J miles south-south-west of Dunbeath, and 9J
north-east of Helmsdale. Its situation is very ro-
mantic, almost in a gorge, near the north skirt of
the Ord of Caithness, and also near the southern
termination of the grand cliffs and stacks which
form so striking a feature of the coast of Caithness-
shire. The village has a good inn. Here also are
a very neat government church, and a very com-
fortable adjacent manse. The church was built in
1826,at an expense of £750,and contains 312 sittings.
It was constituted a quoad sacra parish church by
the Court of Teinds in December 1846. The amount
of the minister's stipend is £120. Here likewise is
a Free church ; the yearly sum raised in connexion
with which in 1865 was £81 5s. lO^d. Berriedale
gives the title of Baron to the family of Sinclair,
Earl of Caithness ; and it was once famous for a
strong ancient castle, which is now in ruins. Ac-
cording to tradition, William Sutherland, alias Wil-
liam More Mackehin, that is, Big William the son
of Hector, was the last inhabiting proprietor of this
castle. Being about to set out on a warlike expedi-
tion to the Orkneys with one of the Earls of Caith-
ness, and impressed with the idea that he should
never return to his native country, he lay down on
the ground above Berriedale inn, contiguous to tho
small burying-ground, and there caused the length
of his body to be cut out in the sward in the form
of a grave, which to this day retains the name of
the Long Grave, and measures about 9 feet 5
inches. In the neighbourhood is the pleasant man-
sion of Langwell, within the margin of a thriving
plantation. Population of the quoad sacra parish
of Berriedale in 1851, 1,264.
BERRY-HEAD, a magnificent rocky promontory
at the southern extremity of Walls, in Orkney, cor-
responding in some respects to the opposite pro-
montory of Dunnet-Head in Caithness-shire.
BERTHA, a spot of some interest to antiquaries
and others who,
" Such places labour to make known,
As former times have honoured with renown."
It is situated at the confluence of the Almond with
the Tay, about 2 miles above the town of Perth ;
and, according to General Roy, there are still some
faint vestiges' of Old Perth, or Bertha, here. Bu-
chanan relates that an inundation of the Tay, in one
night swept the greater part of the town of Bertha
away. This happened towards the end of William's
reign, who died in 1214. The king himself escaped
the disaster which overwhelmed the place ; but his
infant son, with many of the promiscuous multitude,
lost their lives. Though the existing vestiges of
Bertha are extremely slight, yet they Berve to show
how, in all probability, the place was situated on a
tongue of land before it was washed away. Here
theRoman road crossed the Tay, and the houses on
the opposite bank are still called Rome. From so
many concurring circumstances, but especially from
the distance between it and Hierna' corresponding
so well with that assigned by Richard in his Itiner-
ary, there seems to be some ground to conclude,
that the ancient Bertha must have been the Orrea
of the Romans. General Roy has preserved a plan
of it.
BERTRAM-SHOTTS. See Shotts.
BERVIE (The), a small river of Kincardineshire.
It rises among the Grampians in the upper district
of the parish of Glenbervie, and flows about 16 miles
southward and south-eastward to the German ocean,
at the boundary between the parishes of Bervie
and Kinneff. It winds in beautiful curves, and is
adorned with the parks of Glenbervie, Whiteriggs,
Arbuthnot, and Allardiee. It is an excellent trout-
ing-stream, and has a small salmon-fishery at its
mouth.
BERVIE, a parish, containing the burgh and
post-town of Bervie, and the fishing-village ot
Gourdon, on the coast of Kincardineshire. It is
bounded by the German Ocean, and by the parishes
of Kinneff, Arbuthnot, Garvoek, and Benholme.
Its outline is foursided. Its length is about 2 miles,
and its breadth about 1J. The surface has a gra-
dual ascent inland, with two hilly ranges nearly
parallel. Bervie Hill, the highest ground, has an
altitude of abont 400 feet above sea-level; and
Gourdon Hill serves as a landmark to mariners.
Nearly two-thirds of the entire area of the parish
are in cultivation, and about 70 acres are under wood.
The chief landowners are Lord Arbuthnot and Mr.
Farquhar. There are several quarries of sandstone.
The fisheries are important. The road from Mon-
trose to Aberdeen passes along the coast. Popula
tionof the parish in 1831, 1,137; in 1861, 1,561.
Houses, 274. Assessed property in 1843, £3,343
13s. 4d.; in 1865, £4,742 16s. 4d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Fordoun and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown.
Average stipend, £250 ; glebe, £18. The teinds were
BEEVIE BROW.
156
BERWICK (North;.
recently exhausted. Schoolmaster's salary now is
£50, with about £20 fees. The parochial church was
built in 1833, and contains 900 sittings. There is a
Free church ; and the yearly sum raised in connexion
with it in 18S5 was £54 12s. Ijd. There is also a
Baptist chapel. Bervie parish was originally a part
of the parish of Kinneff, and was separated from it
about the time of the Reformation. There was, in
Romish times, a friary here, which is still commemo-
rated in the name of a locality called Friar's Dubbs.
The Town op Bervie or Inverbervie stands at
the mouth of Bervie Water, and at the end of a
railway from Montrose, 7 miles east of Laurence-
kirk, 10 south- south-west of Stonehaven, and 13
north-north-east of Montrose. It has no natural
advantages of site, and presents a cold, straggling
appearance 4 it is also a small place, with only a
village population, and does not look as if it could
ever acquire much consequence; yet it contains
some good houses, and is neither so poor nor so
spiritless as some of the other small royal burghs of
Scotland. It consists principally of three small
irregular streets, related to one another somewhat
in the manner of three sides of a square. The
town-house is a modern two-story building, with a
handsome belfry. The parish church is an elegant
Gothic edifice, with a square tower of upwards of 100
feet in height. The bridge across the river is a fine
structure, with one beautiful, large-span arch, at the
height of about 80 feet above the bed of the stream.
The castle of Hallgreen is a large, strong pile of
the 14th century, in fine repair and of picturesque
appearance, surmounting an eminence near the sea,
at the southernmost point of the burgh boundaries.
A spinning-mill of three stories stands at the upper
side of the bridge, and was the first mill built in
Scotland for the spinning of linen yarn and thread.
The principal trade of the town consists in the
manufacture of duck and dowlas, and in the supply
of the surrounding country with miscellaneous
wares. The market-day is Wednesday; and for
six months in the year is a good grain market. A
good cattle-market is held on the Thursday before
the 19th of May in each year. There is also an-
other of less importance held on the Thursday be-
fore the 19th of September. Cattle-markets and
hiring-markets likewise were attempted to be esta-
blished, a number of years ago, in November, Decem-
ber, and February ; but thejr did not succeed, and have
been relinquished. The town has a public reading-
room, and offices of the North of Scotland Bank and
the Aberdeen Town and County Bank. Its harbour,
however, is at the village of Gourdon, about a mile
to the south, where there are several grauaries and
warehouses belonging to Montrose merchants.
Bervie owes its distinction, as a royal burgh, to
the circumstances of David II. being shipwrecked
on the coast in 1362, and having been kindly treated
by its inhabitants on reaching the shore. But its
charter was renewed by James VI. in 1595. It
unites with Montrose, Brechin, Arbroath, and For-
far in returning a member to parliament. Its par-
liamentary constituency in 1865 was 36. Its ma-
gistracy consists of a provost, three bailies, a dean
of guild, a treasurer, and 9 councillors. Corpora-
tion revenue in 1864, about £167. Population of
the municipal burgh in 1841 , 864 ; of the parliamen-
tary and municipal in 1861, 952. Houses, 181. There
was until after 1851 a small part of the parliamentary
burgh beyond the limits of the municipal burgh
BERVIE BROW, or Craig David, a bold pro-
montory on the north side of Bervie water, in the
parish of Kinneff, ICincardipeshire. It is a conspi-
cuous landmark for mariners, and is seen at sea at
the distance of 15 leagues.
BERWICK (North), a parish, containing a royal
burgh and post-town of the same name, on the
north coast of Haddingtonshire. It is bounded on
the north by the frith of Forth, and on other sides
by the parishes of Dirleton, Prestonkirk and White-
kirk. Its length from east to west is 3 miles ; and
its breadth is upwards of 2J miles. Toward the
east, the coast is rocky and bold ; but toward the
west, on both sides of the town, it presents consider-
able stretches of level sand and flat grassy downs,
of the kind called links. Several rocky islets lie
near the shore ; and the large insular rocks of Craig-
leith and the Bass lie at a little distance. Two
small pretty bays occur respectively east and west
of the town, and a larger and very beautiful one,
called Canty Bay, is situated at the boundary with
Whitekirk opposite the Bass. A range of low but
in some parts very picturesque hills stretches across
the southern part of the parish, from Fenton tower,
eastwards to Whitekirk hill ; but the most remark-
able hill is North Berwick law, a very beautiful
conical shaped hill which, rising to the height of
about 800 feet above sea-level from a flat country,
is visible from all sides at a great distance, and
forms a well-known landmark to mariners. A few
small rivulets intersect the parish. The soil is in a
high state of cultivation. The chief landowners are
Sir Hew Dalrymple, Bart, of Leucine House, for-
merly North Berwick House; Sir George Grant
Suttie, Bart., of Balgone ; Lady Mary C. Nisbet
Hamilton ; Lady Susan Ramsay Bourke ; and John
Thomson, Esq. of Easteraig. There are quarries of
limestone and excellent building-stone; and there is
a foundry for steam-engines and for tile-making ma-
chines. Estimated value of land produce, in 1839,
£24,454. Assessed property in 1865, of the landward
parts, £11,992 2s.; of the burgh, £4,424 19s. The
most in teres ting antiquities are the ruins of Tantallan
Castle, and some architectural remains on the Bass
Rock. SeeTANTALLANCASTLEandBASs(THE). About
a quarter of a mile west of the town of North Ber-
wick, stand the ruins of an abbey, or Cistertian
nunnery, founded in 1 154 by Duncan, Earl of Fife.
At the Reformation this nunnery contained 11 nuns,
and was well endowed. It presents few traces of
its former magnificence. Views of it are given by
Grose. Adjoining the harbour, on a small sandy
knoll, are the slight remains of what is called the
Auld Kirk, and which has evidently at one period
been surrounded by the parish burying-ground, now
nearly washed away by the sea. Population of the
parish in 1831, 1,824; in 1861, 2,071. Houses, 344.
This parish is in the presbytery of Haddington,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Sir
Hew Dalrymple, Bart. Stipend, £306 3s. 5d. ;
glebe, £38, with 12 Solan geese from the Bass.
Unappropriated teinds, £434 15s. 6d. Schoolmas-
ter's salary, £52 10s., with £10 for a female teacher.
There are a burgh school in the town, a sub-par-
ochial school in the vicinity of Tantallan, and a
private school. The parochial church was built iu
1670. and repaired in 1819, and contains 550 sittings.
The Free church contains about 400 sittings; yearly
sum raised in 1865, £197. The United Presbyterian
church was built in 1832, and contains 390 sittings.
The Episcopalian church is recent, and contains
about 200 sittings. — The old parish church is famous
in the annals of witchcraft as the reputed favourite
rendezvous of the witches and wizards of the Lo-
thians.
The Town op North Berwick stands on the
coast 9 miles north-north-east of Haddington, 11
north-west of Dunbar, and 22 north-east by east of
Edinburgh. It took the name of North Berwick in
contradistinction to Berwick-upon-Tweed, which
BERWICK (North).
157
BERWICKSHIRE.
was often called in old times South Berwick. The
town ranks at once as post-town, market-town,
watering-place, sea-port, and royal burgh ; it con-
sists principally of two streets nearly at right angles
to each other ; it was greatly enlarged and improved
during the twelve years ending in 1865 ; it has a
large puhlic hotel, a good private hotel, and, on
both sides, commodious new villas for summer vis-
itors; it acquired a howling-green in 1865; and it
looks all healthiness and cheerfulness, and is sur-
rounded on sea and land by very beautiful environs.
The beach on both sides of the harbour presents
fine gently sloping sands, and forms excellent bath-
ing-ground ; the links afford good scope for the
healthy diversion of golfing; and the frith, the
rocky "isles, the low trap hills to landward, and
especially North Berwick law, immediately south
of the town, with a rich skirt of wood and a delight-
ful zigzag walk to the summit, comprise enough of
scenery to give very pleasing exercise to the ima-
gination. The result is that North Berwick is a
select place, — attracting a larger proportion of
wealthy and well-informed visitors than most towns
of its size.
North Berwick was created a royal burgh by Ro-
bert III., and received a confirmation of its privi-
leges by charter from James VI. The parliamen-
tary boundaiy extends from the Yellow Craig rock
on the east, to Point Garry on the west — a distance
of nearly a mile in a direct line, but considerably
more by the curvatures of the coast — with an aver-
age breadth betwixt the shore and the southern
boundary line of about 360 yards. The burgh joins
with Haddington, Dunbar, Jedburgh, and Lauder,
in returning a member to parliament. The parlia-
mentary constituency in 1865 was 87. The town
is said to have been a sea-port so early as the time
of Robert II.; it is said also to have been a place of
noticeable trade some time or other long ago. But
Mr. Tucker, in his enumeration of the ports of Scot-
land in 1656, does not even mention North Berwick,
though he notices Eyemouth and Dunbar, and the
minor ports of the Forth up to Borrowstounness.
In the report of the commissioners appointed by the
convention of royal burghs, in 1691, to visit the
different burghs, and report upon their condition,
it is stated " that there were neither yearly fairs
nor weekly markets ; " and the other observations
on its trade are summed up in these words, " ships
they have none, nor ferry boat, except two fish-boats
which pay nothing to the town." At the present
day the harbour is formed by a tolerably good pier,
on which considerable sums have been laid out ;
but it is dry at low water, and neither very easy of
access, nor very well sheltered when gained. There
were in 1834 five vessels belonging to the port,
amounting in burden to 249 tons ; and in 1850 there
were four vessels, amounting in burden to 270 tons.
For fifty years the trade may be considered to have
been stationary, the letting of the customs and
shore dues having varied very immaterially during
the greatest part of that time. "There has latter-
ly," say the Parliamentary commissioners, " been a
great falling-off in the grain and lime trade; but
new objects of traffic have sprung up in the export
of potatoes, turnips, and flour ; and within the last
ten years there has been a considerable increase in
the importation of foreign rape cake, and crashed
bones for manure. There are no manufactures, and
no traces of any such ever having existed in the
burgh. There are still no regular markets, and
only two annual fairs, one in the month of June,
and the other in the month of November." A weekly
stock grain-market was recently established, with
seemingly good prospect of success; but it lasted
only three months, and docs not appear at all likely
to be resumed. The revenue of the burgh, in 1833,
was £141 18s., of which £85 arose from customs and
shore-dues. The expenditure during the same year
was £124 5s. 2d.; and the debt amounted to £794
19s. 8d. The revenue in 1863 was about £380.
The municipal government is vested in 12 council-
lors, who elect 2 bailies, and a treasurer. Munici-
pal constituency in 1865, 59. The town-clerk is
appointed by the magistrates during pleasure, and
has a salary of £10 10s. There is no regular burgh-
court; but sheriff small-debt courts are held three or
four times in the year. The burgesses have a right
of commouty on the links on both sides of the town.
In 1814, the town-council sold the island of Craig-
leith, lying off the harbour, to Sir Hew Dalrymple
for £400. The town has an office of the British
Linen Company's Bank. It has also a subscrip-
tion library, and two or three benevolent societies.
A branch of the North British railway deflects at
Drem, and rata north-eastward to a terminus at
North Berwick. There are several passenger trains
daily ; and there is a station for Dirleton about
midway between Drem and North Berwick. Popu-
lation of the municipal burgh of North Berwick in
1841, 607; in 1861, 700. Houses, 114. Population
of the parliamentary burgh in 1841, 1,037 ; iu 1861,
1,164. Houses, 179.
BERWICKSHIRF., the most south-easterly county
of Scotland, lying on the coast of the German ocean,
and along the north-east border of England. Its
principal division was anciently called the Merse,
or March, a name which it still retains, and which
probably signifies the Border-district, or frontier-
province. But this district seems formerly to have
included a considerable portion of the eastern low-
lands of Teviotdale, as Roxburgh castle was an-
ciently called Marchmount, or the Castle of the
March or Merse. This denomination, the Merse,
is still often used, loosely, for the whole county.
The modern name, Berwickshire, is derived from
the town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, once its chief
burgh or county town; but which, after the demise
of Elizabeth, and the accession of James VI. of
Scotland to the English throne, was constituted a
peculiar jurisdiction, hypothetieally separate from
both kingdoms, and virtually forming a distinct
county.
Berwickshire is bounded on the east by the Ger-
man ocean ; along which, from the boundaries of
Berwick township to St. Abb's Head, its coast trends
north-north-west for 8J miles. The shore then
takes a west-north-west direction, for other 9 miles,
till its junction with East Lothian at Dunglass
Vidge; and, by the revenue laws, this latter part
of the coast is considered as being within the limits
of the frith of Forth. Almost the whole of this
coast consists of bold rocky precipices of consider-
able altitude ; and is nearly inaccessible, except at
Eyemouth and Coldingham bays, and two or three
other places, which are accessible to fishing-boats,
at sandy or gravel beaches at the foot of the rocks.
The whole irregular northern boundary skirts with
East Lothian, along the mountain-range of Lam
mennoor. But, within this line, Berwickshire en-
tirely surrounds a detached portion of one of the
East Lothian parishes ; while the most northerly
part of this county is situated beyond, or to the
north of, the Lammermoor hills, and is continuous
with the extensive and fertile vale of the Lothians.
Clinthill, one of the highest of the Lammermoor
chain, in the parish of Channelkirk, at the north-
western extremity of the county, rises 1,544 feet
above the level of the ocean. Lammerlaw, in the
parish of Lauder, has an altitude of 1,500 feet. The
BERWICKSHIRE.
158
BERWICKSHIRE.
general range of these mountains declines as it ap-
proaches the sea, averaging about 1,000 feet in per-
pendicular elevation, and it terminates in three pre-
cipitous promontories, at Fast-castle, Ernscleugh,
and St. Abb's Head; which last is detached from
the extremity of the chain by a deep narrow dell
almost level with high water mark at spring-tides.
See Lammekmooe-Hllls. The western irregular
limit of Berwickshire is partly with Mid-Lothian,
towards the north, but chiefly with Roxburghshire,
from which it is partly divided, on that side, by the
lower part of the Leader water, to its junction with
the river Tweed near Melrose. Excepting a por-
tion of Roxburghshire adjoining Kelso, and the
township of Berwick, both of which are on the
north side of the Tweed, that beautiful river, in a
meandering course of about 40 miles, forms the
southern boundary of this county, dividing it from
Roxburghshire on the west, Northumberland in the
middle, and North Durham on the east, of this line
of division. North Durham is a detached portion
of the English bishopric and county-palatine of
Durham, having the whole extent of Northumber-
land interposed between it and the main body of the
patrimony of St. Cuthbert, which once held exten-
sive possessions in Scotland also. From Berwick
township, Berwickshire is divided by a semilunar
dry march, consisting partly of a ruinous dry stone
wall called the Bound dyke, and partly of a narrow
lane called the Bound road ; this boundary extends
from Marshal-Meadows on the sea-shore on the east,
to the Tweed on the west, crossing the Whitadder
in its course.
Mr. Blackadder estimates the extreme length of
the county, from east to west, at 31 J miles, and its
extreme breadth, from north to south, at 19^ miles;
the mean length at'26J miles, and the mean breadth
at 17 miles ; and the total contents at 285,440 acres.
But, Mi'. Kerr says, " from a very careful considera-
tion of the map itself, attentively measured by its
own scale, the mean length appears to be 28 miles,
the mean breadth 17 miles, and the consequent con-
tents 304,640 acres." Mr. Home very nearly agrees
with Mr. Blackadder's measurements; and the Rev.
Mr. Edgar, in the New Statistical Account of Scot-
land, implicitly adopts those of Mr. Kerr ; but two
other reporters, Mr. Low and Mi-. Bruce, give widely
different measurements from both, and also from each
other. The Ordnance Survey makes the area to be
301,937 acres of land, 215 water, and 799 foreshore.
In ancient times, the shire of Berwick seems to
have been a separate jurisdiction from the bailiary
of Lauderdale, and to have been itself divided into
the Merse and the Lammermoor districts. It is not
easy to say what were the exact boundaries and
extent of these three divisions, now almost obsolete.
See the articles Lauderdale and Merse. For the
purposes of agricultural inquiry, the whole comity
may be very conveniently considered under two
districts, the Merse and the Lammermoor, — the for-
mer including all the comparatively low land along
Tweed, Whitadder, Blackadder, and Eye, — and the
latter comprehending Lauderdale, along with the
more eastern hilly country peculiarly called Lam-
mermoor. According to this general division of
the county, the Merse designates the whole lower
ground from Tweed up the cultivated slopes of the
lower southern range of the Lammermoor hills, in-
cluding the western parishes of Nenthorn and Mer-
ton, and forming the largest piece of compact plain
in Scotland. Mr. Blackadder estimates this division
to contain 100,226 acres. The whole remainder of
the county — with an exception to be mentioned in
the sequel — is therefore to be considered as forming
the Lammermoor district; and, according to the
same authority, should contain 185,214 acres. But
Mr. B. computes that there are 7,280 acres of low-
land and arable slopes of the lower hills in Lauder-
dale, besides a detached portion of lowland contain-
ing 2,200 acres, at the north-east comer of the
county, in the parish of Coekburnspath, adjoining
the vale of East Lothian. Consequently the hill-
lands of Lammermoor and Lauderdale are thus re-
duced to 175,734 acres. Some farther considerable
reduction might still he made from this estimate of
the hill-lands, as there are several narrow tracts of
vale land along the sides of streams winding deep
among the mountains, and many arable slopes of
the lower interior hills themselves. But these per-
haps are fully compensated for by hills and moors
and bogs within the district of the Merse. The
township of Berwick, geographically situated within
this county, may probably contain 4,680 acres of
land, almost entirely arable, exclusive of the site of
the town and suburbs. Thus, according to the re-
spectable authority of Mr. Blackadder, the whole of
this county may be estimated and distributed as
follows :
Acres.
Lowlands of the Merse. . . . 100,226
Lowlands in Lauderdale, . 7,280
Lowlands of Coekburnspath, . . 2,200
Berwick township, . . 4,680
Total arable, improved or improvable, . 114.3S6
Hill-lands of Lammermoor and Lauderdale, . 175,734
Total extent in statute acres, . 290,120
Or leaving out Berwick township, . . 285,440
In spring the prevalent winds are from the eastern
points, and are attended by much cold raw weather
and frequent frosts. This cold ungenial tempera-
ture is very apt to continue far into the summer,
probably owing to the neighbourhood of the ocean;
but, from the same cause, the winters are seldom of
very long continuance, or peculiar severity; though
certainly more severe than on the west coast in the
same latitude. The influence lessens perceptibly in
all respects at 8 or 10 miles from the sea; and the
winters in the Lammermoor hills and Lauderdale are
severe and continued, though not more so than in
the hills of Northumberland, or of Yorkshire. In
autumn the prevailing winds are from the west, and
are often attended with injury to the standing com by
shaking, especially when harvest is protracted much
beyond the equinox. From the best information
that can be procured, this county, in common with
the whole eastern lowlands of Britain, appears to
enjoy a comparatively dry climate, much mor..
friendly to the cultivation of grain, and other agri-
cultural pursuits, than the lowlands on the western
coast. The hilly district of Lammermoor, however,
and the higher parts of the southern slopes of the
Lammermoor hills, called the moor-edges, are
greatly more liable than the lower part of the
county to have the spring seed-time delayed and
interrupted, and the harvest rendered late, difficult,
and precarious. These disadvantages, however, are
by no means greater in Berwickshire than in other
districts of equal elevation, either in Scotland or
England. The Merse, as already observed, is
skirted on the north by the elevated range of the
Lammermoor hills, and at some distance on the
south, beyond the Northumberland portion of the
vale of Tweed, by the more lofty chain of the Che-
viot mountains ; and these two chains are united, in
a great measure, far inland by intermediate lower
hills dividing the eastern from the western lowlands.
Hence the clouds, wafted by the eastern gales from
the British ocean, are attracted from the vale be-
tween by these ranges of hills, which in spring and
BERWICKSHIRE.
159
BERWICKSHIRE.
autumn are often enveloped in mist, drenched by
rain, or clothed in snow, while the lower interme-
diate Merse, and the rest of the vale of Tweed, are
enjoying the most genial seed-times, and highly
propitious harvest weather.
The Merse, though quite properly called a plain,
yet is much diversified by gentle undulations, and
also contains several considerable heights, as at
Lamberton, Dunse, and Home castle. Lammermoor
and Lauderdale comprise an extensive range of
lofty, rounded, well-defined hills, which are mostly
flat, or at least very obtuse on their summits, and
not precipitous or rocky on their sides. They are
everywhere intersected by a number of narrow up-
land valleys or dells, through which the numerous
feeders or brooks which combine to form the Leader,
Whitadder, Blackadder, and Eye waters, wind to-
wards the lower vale. The summits, in many
places, extend into considerable flats or elevated
table-lands, which often slope gradually to the
lower vales on the south sides of the hills, the higher
parts being moor, but gradually declining into good
land. The county possesses every variety of soil,
from the most stubborn clay to the most barren
sand or gravel, but none whatever of a chalky or
calcareous nature. Along the banks of Tweed,
Whitadder, and Blackadder there is an extensive
tract of fine deep free loam, often upon a gravel
bottom, sometimes upon a bottom of till or coarse
retentive clay. In this lower vale land there is
likewise a large extent of stiff and rather coarse clay
soil, usually cut off from the immediate vicinity of
the rivers by the before-mentioned rich loam. A
third species of soil, of a free and dry sandy or
gravelly consistency, occupies most part of the re-
mainder of the Merse, the vale lands of hammer-
moor and Lauderdale, and the lower slopes of most
of the hills : this is denominated turnip soil, and is
usually incumbent upon a dry bottom of gravel or
sand. In every quarter of the county, — frequently
in the same farm, and sometimes in the same field,
— these three soils are intermixed in patches, or
irregular stripes, of greater or less extent, and all
graduate into each other, forming intermediate
varieties. In many situations, even of the most
fertile parts of the country, marshy places or bogs
are found in the hollows, into which the water of
springs or small rills is poured from the adjoining
slopes. These are overgrown with rushes or other
marsh-plants, and are inundated in rainy weather.
Some of the larger bogs are of great depth, and
seem anciently to have been lakes or ponds now
filled up with peat moss, owing to the long-conti-
nued accumulation of decayed aquatic plants.
Others seem to have been anciently the sites of
woods, as the remains of trees are still found when
digging for peats in them. Some bogs have little
or no peat-moss in their composition ; and such, in
various instances, have been converted into sound
firm pasture, or good arable land, by judicious
draining. Peat-mosses or turf-bogs are found in all
the hilly country, and in various patches through
the low lands. Dogden moss, near Polwart, covers
about 500 acres, and is in some places 10 feet deep.
Several endeavours have been made to discover a
workable seam of coal in Berwickshire. In the
estate of Lamberton, contiguous to Berwick bounds,
at the south-east extremity of the county, a stratum
of coal has long been known, which crops out on
the sea-banks near the fishing-hamlet of Ross.
Some coal has also been found in the parishes of
Mordington and Cockburnspath. An attempt was
once made to dig for copper ore at Ordwell on the
Whitadder; but, either from want of produce in
proportion to expense, or want of skill in work-
ing, it has been long abandoned. More recent at-
tempts to work this mineral at St. Bathan's, and
also near the old church of Ellim, in Longformacus
parish, have proved equally abortive. No indica
tions of lead, tin, antimony, or any other metallic
ore — copper and perhaps red iron-ore excepted — are
known to exist in this county. Some slight trials
were made many years ago of a ferruginous clay-
stone rock, on the estate of Ayton, as an iron-stone
or ore of iron ; but it was found too poor in metal to
defray the expense of transport to Carron iron- works.
In some inland parts there are a few veins of lime-
stone ; but hitherto, the county has been mainly de-
pendent on its neighbours for the two great articles
of domestic comfort and agricultural improvement,
— coal and lime. Coals are brought from the south
side of the Tweed to all the south and east parts of
the county, and from Mid-Lothian into Lauderdale.
The north-east corner is supplied from Dunbar har-
bour, whither they are imported mostly from Fife.
Lime follows nearly the same roads; except that
some of the north and east part of the county pro-
cure it from kilns in the vale of East Lothian.
Both coals and lime, especially the latter, are im-
ported at Eyemouth. The coals come from the
frith of Forth, and from Newcastle and Sunderland.
Lime is brought from the river Wear, and from
North Sunderland, near Bamburgh castle. Coke, or
charred pit coal, for brewers, maltsters, and corn
merchants, is likewise imported at Eyemouth from
Newcastle. In many parts of the county, shell
marl has been found in small quantities. Trap
whinstone, and amorphous basalt, interspersed with
irregularly stratified clay-stone, are almost universal.
In several places, rocks of breccia, or coarse pudding-
stone, are found. The most remarkable instance of
this is the rocky promontory which covers Eye
mouth bay, on the north-west, in which nodules of
whin and schist, of great variety of size, form, and
colour, are imbedded in a lapidified clay, somewhat
like steatite, of various colours, often greenish,
generally very hard and tough, but soapy to the
touch. The durability of this stone is thoroughly
ascertained. In many places, large beds of silicious
sandstone occur in regular stratification. Some of
these are of a coarse open grain, and serve tolerably
well for filtering stones. Many of the quarries are
of excellent quality; and perhaps there does not
exist a finer specimen of that kind of stone than is
exhibited in the magnificent rains of Melrose abbey,
in the county of Roxburgh, only about 2 miles from
the western borders of Berwickshire; in which ex-
quisitely rich and delicate carvings in high relief,
which have been many centuries exposed to the
weather, are still sharp and uninjured. From com-
parison of grain and colour — the last a pale red or
almost peach bloom — there is every reason to sup-
pose that beautiful structure had been supplied with
stone from Dryburgh upon Tweed within this county.
Excepting the Eye, with its scanty tributaries,
which falls into Eyemouth bay, and a very small
number of inconsiderable brooks which ran sepa-
rately into the sea, all the streams of Berwickshire
contribute to swell the waters of the Tweed. This
fine river, so celebrated in song and renowned in
story, is only navigable for sea-vessels to Berwick
bridge, about one mile from its mouth; though the
tide flows about 7 miles higher. The other streams
in the county are usually denominated waters, — a
kind of intermediate provincial term, between the
dignity of a river and the insignificancy of a brook,
which latter is called a hum in Scotland. Still
smaller rills, especially in marshy places, are often
called syhes. The Leader, or Leeder, with its
numerous bums, winds through the vale of Lauder ■
BEEWTCKSHIRE.
160
BERWICKSHIRE.
dale. It issues from a number of narrow upland
dells or valleys, among the wild hills of that dis-
trict, and joins the Tweed at the south-western
angle of the county, where that river begins to form
the sooth boundary of Berwickshire. The Whit-
adder and Blackadder — quasi White and Black
waters, owing to their respective tinges when in
flood — are next to exclusively Berwickshire streams.
Dye, one of the main sources of Whitadder, rises by
several brooks or feeders, on the ridge of hills which
separate Lauderdale from Lammermoor. The Whit-
adder proper, rising within East Lothian, at an ele-
vation of 1,150 feet, unites with Dye in a romantic
vale of some extent, in the bosom of the Lammer-
moor hills; and, having received the Blackadder
much lower down, at Allanton, in the vale of the
Merse, unites with the Tweed within Berwick
bounds, about 3 miles from the sea. The Black-
adder and its streamlets, or feeders, rise from the
southern slopes of the Lammermoor and Lauderdale
hills, at an elevation of about 1,130 feet; and, after
winding through the vale of the Merse, joins the
Whitadder between Allanbank and Ninewells. The
small stream of the Eden principally belongs to
that portion of Roxburghshire which indents into
this county, on the north side of Tweed, into which
that small river flows a few miles below Kelso.
The Leet, another small stream, belongs entirely to
the how of the Merse, and joins Tweed at Cold-
stream. The small river Eye, with a few feeders —
particularly the Ale and Horn — waters a narrow but
fertile vale in the east end of the Merse ; several of
its upper streamlets wind among some narrow val-
leys towards the west end of the Lammermoor
hills. Its peculiar source is within East Lothian.
At one place, — from near Ayton to near Chimside,
— a narrow winding vale, of veiy inconsiderable
elevation, almost permits the Whitadder and Eye
to unite. Midway between, Billy bog or Billy mire
discharges its superfluous waters into both rivers, —
eastwards by the Horn burn, into Eye, with just
sufficient declivity for its ready passage ; westwards
by the Billy burn, into Whitadder. This singular
vale is about 5 miles long, and has a northern
branch, more elevated, from Auchincrow on Billy
bog, to Beston on -the Eye, enclosing an isolated
hill of considerable extent and elevation, but alto-
gether arable. The Ale, Wedderburn, and many
other brooks, are too inconsiderable to require any
special notice. All the rivers, waters, and brooks
in this county abound with trout of different kinds ;
some contain a few pike and perch, and all have
plenty of eels. See articles Leadee, Whitadder,
Blackadder, Eye, and Ale. — There are no lakes
of any importance in the county. Coldingham loch
— a piece of water covering about 30 acres — and one
or two more, are too insignificant to form excep-
tions, and do not merit any particular notice.
Dunse spa, once in some little repute as a mineral
spring, has fallen into complete neglect.
In the 11th century, almost the whole of Berwick-
shire, except a portion of the Merse, was covered
with wood. During the 12th and 13th centuries,
many persons of consideration settled in it, having
received from the Crown grants of lands which they
cultivated. But the husbandry of those times con-
sisted more in the feeding of flocks and the rearing
of cattle than in the production of corn. Toward
the middle of last century, agriculture began to be
studied as a science, and essential improvements to
be made by enlightened practical farmers. About
the year 1730, Mr. Swinton of Swinton, father of the
late Lord Swinton, in the course of a few years,
drained and enclosed his whole estate. Mr. Hume
of Eccles, about the same time, began and carried
on his improvements with great ardour and success.
Lord Kames, another of the early improvers in this
county, about the year 1746, introduced the turnip-
husbandry which has here been earned to perfection.
Clover and grasses were also sown at Kames, and
at sundry other places, towards the year 1750.
Soon after this period, the enclosing and' improving
of estates became a favourite pursuit with other
landed proprietors. Mr. Fordyce of Ayton profited
by all the preceding discoveries and meliorations.
In enclosing his landed property, he sheltered his
fields with belts and clumps of planting, and added
the Scots cabbage to the husbandry of Berwickshire.
Dr. Hutton, the geologist, a considerable proprietor
in this county, turned his attention to practical hus-
bandly, and succeeded in all his plans. In this
way, the fertility and wealth of Berwickshire have
been greatly improved, and the land-rent has been
more than quadrupled. " The spirit of improve-
ment," says the Rev. Mr. Edgar, in his General Ob-
servations in the New Statistical Account, " quickly
spread to tenants of skill, enterprise, and capital.
Their success stimulated others to follow their foot-
steps. Encouragement was given by proprietors to
tenants, by granting them leases on liberal terms,
and of a proper duration. Lands were enclosed,
moorish tracts improved, lime and manure liberally
applied, the turnip-husbandry extensively pursued,
and by the general use of thrashing machines, and
a thorough improvement of turnpike and parish
roads, facilities were afforded for marketing graiD
on a scale commensurate with the improved produc
tiveness of the soil, and the increasing capabilities
of the county. Notwithstanding the severe depres-
sion under which this interest has laboured for some
years past, and which at no period was more felt
than at present, this county still retains its agri-
cultural pre-eminence. Improvements are still pro-
ceeding to a certain extent, and perhaps there is no
district of Scotland where agriculture is conducted
with more of the precision and exactness of a science.
The average size of farms in this county may be
stated at from 300 to 400 English acres. Of all
agricultural improvements of modem times, perhaps
the most valuable is the perfection to which drain-
ing has been carried. From the nature of the soil,
and its tendency to humidity, no county required
this improvement more than Berwickshire, and
though much remains to be done, nowhere has it
been more successfully or more extensively pursued
Drains are now laid out in a more scientific style
than formerly, and as a natural consequence, their
operation on the soil is far more efficient and
salutary." Surface draining has also been much
practised, with excellent effect, on the upland
pastures.
" At the end of last century," says the same
writer, " the local connection of this county with the
English borders directed the attention of some con-
siderable landed proprietors to effect an improve-
ment on the breeds of cattle and sheep. The late
Mr. Robertson of Ladykirk merits particularly to
be mentioned as having taken the leading part in
this branch of improvement, to which he sedulously
devoted himself. His mesne of Ladykirk afforded
him means and opportunities which few enjoyed,
of carrying this department of rural economy to
greater perfection than perhaps any other individual
in Scotland. His efforts were crowned with success,
and his breeds of sheep and cattle still continue tc
be highly prized by connoisseurs and adepts in
these matters. The tenantry also followed his ex-
ample on a more limited scale. The old breeds oi
cattle and sheep were gradually displaced, and
kinds were introduced of more productive value
BERWICKSHIRE.
163
BERWICKSHIRE.
high as they can go, were counted as one boll; being
about 9 Winchester bushels, and supposed equal to
47ti English pounds. In Berwick township, the uni-
versal custom was to give 560 English pounds as a
boll of potatoes. The Berwickshire ton of potatoes
for the English market was 28 cwt. In Berwick
market, fresh butter was sold by a customary pound
of 18 avoirdupois ounces; while in the country mar-
kets, the tron pound of 22 J ounces was used, which
was also the usual pound for cheese, while that for
wool was 24 ounces. The legal firkin of 56 English
pounds was universally used for salt butter, but
usually a pound or two heavier to allow for brine,
Fresh salmon — a principal staple of Berwick, and a
considerable part of which comes from fishings with-
in this county — was sold to the coopers, or salmon-
dealers, by a customary stone of 18j avoirdupois
pounds. "The Berwickshire peck is J of a firlot,
instead of J.
Since the dismemberment of Berwick from Scot-
laud, Lauder remains the only royal burgh in the
county; and, in conjunction with Jedburgh, Had-
dington, Dunbar, and North Berwick, sends one re-
presentative to parliament. Greenlaw, a small
place 20 miles west of Berwick, in an inconvenient
situation, is the county town. But Dunse is at once
larger, more centrally situated, and in every respect
more important, and may be regarded as the first
town of the county ; yet even this would rank as a
trivial place in a manufacturing district. The only
sea-port is Eyemouth. The other towns and chief
villages are Coldstream, Ayton, Earlston, Chirnside,
Coldinghain, Paxton, Gavinton, Auchincraw, Res-
ton, Leitholm, Birgham, and Allanton.
The lands of Gordon and Huntly in Berwickshire
were the early residence of the great Gordon family
of the north of Scotland, and gave rise to respectively
their dukedom of Gordon and then- marquisate of
Huntly. A shooting-lodge and some pastoral lands
in the Lammermoors belong to the Duke of Rox-
burghe. Langton House, together with nearly aU
the parish of Langton, belongs to the Earl of
Breadalbane. The other chief seats in the county are
the Hirsel, the Earl of Home ; Thirlestaine Castle, the
Earl of Lauderdale; theRetreat,the Earl of Wemyss;
Nisbet House, Lord Sinclair ; Mertoun House, Lord
Polwarth ; YVedderlie, Lord Blantyre ; Dryburgh
Abbey, the Earl of Buchan ; Lennel House, the
Earl of Haddington ; Marchmont House, Sir Hugh
Hume Campbell, Bart. ; Newton-Don, Sir W. H.
Don, Bart.; Kenton, Sir Charles Stirling, Bart.;
Blackadder, Col. Sir George A. E. H. Boswell,
Bart.; Kelloe, George Buchan, Esq.; Paxton, W.
F, Home, Esq.; Ladykirk, David Robertson, Esq.;
Foulden, John Wilkie, Esq.; and Dunse Castle,
William Hay, Esq.
The principal roads in Berwickshire are the road
from Berwick to Edinburgh along the coast; the
north road from Berwick to Kelso through Swintcn
and Leitholm ; the road from Coldstream to Kelso
along the Tweed ; the road from Coldstream to
Haddington through Dunse; the road from Cold-
stream to Lauder through Greenlaw ; the road from
Eyemouth to Lauder, through Ayton, Chirnside,
Dunse, and Westruther; and the east road from
Kelso to Edinburgh, through Earlston and Lauder.
The total extent of roads within the county was
supposed to be 647 miles at the date of Mr. Black-
adder's report; and must be considerably greater
now. The North British railway passes along the
coast, and is of great value to all the seaboard dis-
trict. A branch deflects from it at Beston, in the
southern part of the parish of Coldingham, and goes
south-westward through the county to a junction at
St. Boswells. The Berwick and Kelso railway no-
where touches the county, yet keeps constantly near
it on the English side of the Tweed, and is of valuo
to various parts of the border district, particularly
around Coldstream. The Edinburgh and Hawick
railway also does not touch the county, yet comes
very near it at the point of bifurcation into the two
lines toward respectively Kelso and Hawick, and is
of value to the parishes of Mertoun and Neuthorn,
and to the lower part of Lauderdale. A project was
at one time in contemplation to cut a railway, under
the name of the Berwickshire and Lothians rail-
way, from Berwick, by way of Paxton, Hutton, Fo-
go, Greenlaw, the vale of the Leader, and Soutra Hill,
into junction with the Lothian railways, sending
off branches in the Merse to respectively the Union
Bridge, Dunse, Coldstream, and Kelso. Another
project, similar to this, but applying only to the
south - western and the western districts of the
county, proposed to cut a branch railway of 30 miles
in length, under the name of the Berwickshire
Central Junction railway, from Kelso, by way of
Nenthom, Earlston, and Lauder, into junction with
the Edinburgh and Hawick railway.
Berwickshire comprises 32 parochial charges, 4
ancient parishes in union with 4 of these charges,
the ancient parish of Home in union with the Rox-
burghshire parish of Stitchel, and two districts of
the mainly Haddingtonshire parish of Oldhamstocks.
Nineteen of the 32 parochial charges, or modern
parishes, may be considered as in the Merse, and 13
in Lammermoor. One belongs to the presbytery of
Dunbar, and synod of Lothian and Tweedale, and
31 belong to the synod of Merse and Teviotdale; 10
of these 31 constitute the presbytery of Dunse, 13
constitute the presbytery of Chirnside, and 8, to-
gether with 1 in Edinburghshire, constitute the
presbytery of Lauder. There is within the county
only one chapel of ease. The Free church of Scot-
land has 15 churches and 2 preaching-stations in
Berwickshire ; and it places one of the churches in
its presbytery of Haddington and Dunbar, 9 of the
churches and 1 of the preaching-stations in its pres-
bytery of Dunse and Chirnside, and the remaining
5 churches and 1 preaching-station in its presbytery
of Kelso and Lauder. The United Presbyterian
Synod has 17 churches in Berwickshire, — 2 of which
are in its presbytery of Kelso, 3 in its presbytery of
Melrose, and 12 in its presbytery of Berwick. The
only other places of worship within the county, so
far as we can discover, are a Reformed Presbyterian
church at Chirnside, au Episcopalian at Dunse, and
an Evangelical Union and a Baptist at Eyemouth.
Berwickshire, therefore, appears to be eminently
presbyterian.
The sheriff and commissary courts are held at
Greenlaw on the last Thursday of every month, and
at Dunse on every other Thursday, as well as every
Tuesday, during session. Sheriff small debt courts
are held at Greenlaw seven times, at Lauder three
times, at Ayton and Coldstream four times, at Dunse
nine times a-year. Quarter sessions are held at
Greenlaw. The assessment, in 1865, for police was
Id., and for rogue-money and prisons also Id. per
pound. The valued rent of the county in 1674 was
£178,366 Scots. The annual value of real property
as assessed in 1815 was £245,379; and in 1860 was
£311,132. Population in 1801, 30,206; in 1811,
30,893; in 1821, 33,385 ; in 1831, 34,043; in 1841,
34.438 ; in 1861, 37,634. Inhabited houses in 1861,
6,802; uninhabited, 429; building, 46. The num-
ber of families in 1831 was 7,385; of whom 2,921
were employed in agriculture, and 1,915 were em-
ployed in trade, handicraft, and manufactures. The
number of persons convicted for criminal offences
in the average of 1836-1860 was 52; in 1863, 47.
BEEWTCKSHIKE.
164
BIGGAB.
The number of prisoners in Greenlaw jail in the year
ending 30 June, 1863, was 75 ; the average net cost
of each, £41 6s. 2d. The number of registered poor in
1862-3 was 1,252; of casual poor, 814. The amount
expended on the registered poor, in that year, was
£9,781 ; on the casual poor, £494.
No Druidical monuments have been discovered
in Berwickshire; but in several places cairns of
stones denote the graves of those who had fallen in
battle. In the parish of Eccles, at Oosshall, there
is an upright stone column, "with various sculptures ;
but there is no inscription, nor is there any tradition
concerning it. On the ridge between Coldinghani
and Bunkle there are vestiges of five oval and cir-
cular encampments. Several remains of antiquity
may also be traced on Cockbum law, on Habcbester,
and at Chesters in Foggo parish. Herrit's dyke, a
mile from Greenlaw, is an earthen mound, with a
ditch on one side of it, and not many years ago it
could have been traced 14 miles eastward. Edin's
or Wodin's hall, about a mile below the abbey of St.
Bathan, on the Whitadder, consists of three concen-
tric circles of stone, 7 feet and 10 feet distant from
one another: the diameter of the innermost circle is
about 20 feet. On the south are deep and wide
trenches ; and eastward are traces of several camps.
There are remains of several religious houses, viz.
the monastery of Coldingham, the abbey of Dry-
burgh, St. Bathan's, &c. Many castles and places
of strength were built in this shire after the 11th
century. The castle of Berwick was the residence
of David I. Home castle, in the 12th century, was
the seat of the family of Home ; the tower of Cock-
burnspath was built, perhaps, by the Earls of Dun-
bar. Fast castle, on a rocky cliff overhanging the
sea, was long ago demolished. Lauder or Thirlstane
castle was built by Edward I. There were many
other castles in different parts of the comity, viz.
Cranshaw, Huntly in Gordon parish, Edrington in
Mordington parish, &c.
At the period of the Roman invasion, Berwick-
shire was inhabited by the Ottadini. It was after-
wards invaded by bands of Saxons from Germany,
who ingrafted their language and manners on those
of the original inhabitants. The conquests of these
foreigners extended a considerable way along the
shores to the east and west, and in course of time
they gave the land thus secured to themselves the
title of Lothian. The whole area of Berwickshire
was comprehended in this Saxon territory, which
received the name of Saxonia in the Scoto-Lish
Chronicle, but was called Bernicia in the age of
Bede. Until 1020, this district of country was in-
cluded within the kingdom of Northumberland. In
that year it was ceded to Malcolm II. by Cospatrick,
Earl of Northumberland, who settling in Scotland,
was created Earl of Dunbar. In 1097 Edgar, the
son of Malcolm, acquired the sovereignty of Ber-
wickshire, which on his death he bequeathed, along
with part of Cumberland and Lothian, to his brother
David. Under this personage Berwickshire rose
into consequence, and the town of Berwick came to
be a seat of merchandise, and known for the value of
its fisheries. About this epoch many Norman and
Anglo-Saxon families settled in Berwickshire, and
laid the foundation of a number of noble houses still
ranked in the peerage of the country. It appears
likewise that the town of Berwick became a settle-
ment of Flemish and other foreign tradesmen. Ber-
wickshire suffered in the succeeding centuries in all
the wars between the two hostile nations, and was
occasionally involved in disputes with its neighbour
the palatine bishop of Durham. Berwick, and its
bridge across the Tweed, were in general chief and
special objects of dispute between the belligerents.
Henry II. in 1174, wrenched Berwick and its castle
from his captive, William. Richard I. again restored
them to Scotland. The disputes regarding the suc-
cession to the crown, after the death of Alexander
III., involved Berwick in many miseries. In 1291
it was given up to Edward I. A few years after-
wards, Berwick renounced its allegiance, and in 1296
was taken by assault by Edward. After the defeat
of the English at Falkirk, they retained Berwick for
twenty years. In 1318 Berwick was once more, and
for the last time, attached to the Scottish monarchy.
During the reign of James III., the crown was
coveted by the Duke of Albany, who, to support his
pretensions, introduced an English army into North
Britain, under the Duke of Gloucester, afterwards
Richard III. The affair ended in compromise ; but
Gloucester refused to withdraw his forces unless
Berwick was delivered into his hands. After a per-
severing diplomatic struggle, the Scotch were forced
to accede to the dishonourable terms; and on the
24th of August, 1482, this oft-contested town and
castle were resigned to England. In 1551 it was
made a free town, independent of both England and
Scotland, which it still remains, with many privileges
peculiar to itself and its citizens. It is governed by
English laws, and does not come within the scope of
the present work. After it ceased to be the county-
town, the affairs of the shire were administered at
Dunse or Lauder; but on Greenlaw becoming the
property of Sir George Home of Spot, in 1596, it was
declared the most fit to be the shire-town, and this
arrangement was ratified by parliament in Novem-
ber, 1600. It did not, however, become the head-
town of the county, in every particular, till 1696.
BERWICKSHIRE RAILWAY, a railway, 20|
miles long, from Dunse to St. Boswells ; forming a
nexus between lines of the North British system; and
opened partially in Nov. 1863, — wholly in 1864.
BETHELF1ELD. See Abeotshall.
BETHELNIE. See Meldedm.
BEVELAW. See Penicuick.
BIBLESTONE. See Bieote.
BIGGA, an island, about 2J miles long, situated
in Yell Sound, about 1£ mile west of the south-
western extremity of Yell Island, Shetland. _ It is
now a grazing island, hut was formerly occupied by
eight tenants.
BIGGAB (The), a rivulet of Lanarkshire and
Peebles-shire. It rises on the mutual border of the
parishes of Libberton and Biggar, and flows about
4 miles southward through the latter parish, and
then about 5 miles eastward, partly along the bound-
ary between Lanarkshire and Peebles-shire, but
chiefly within the latter county to a confluence with
the Tweed a little below Drummelzier. Its upper
course for about 2 miles is between two ridges of
considerable elevation, — that on the east attaining,
in the Bushyberry or Bizzyberry, an elevation of
1,150 feet, and that on the west rising to 1,260 feet.
The stream then passes through the town of Biggar.
and afterwards enters a fine open vale which com-
prises the southern district of Biggar parish. Here,
at the distance of about 1J mile from the Clyde, it
is joined by a rill which brings to it a portion of
the waters of that river in times of high flood, — and
which, with no very great labour of excavation,
might be made to bring to it all the waters of the
Clyde at all times, so as to convey them through it to
the Tweed. The length of this vale between the
Clyde and the Tweed is 7 miles; the total descent
of it is 25 feet ; and the mean elevation of it above
sea-level is about 615 feet.
BIGGAR, a parish, containing a post-town of the
same name, on the eastern border of the upper ward
of Lanarkshire. It is bounded by Peebles-shire,
BIGGAR.
165
BILLY CASTLE.
and In}' the parishes of Dolphinton, Walston, Libber-
ton, and Outer. Its outline is triangular; its great-
est length is 6J miles; and its area is about 7,289
statute acres. The Clyde traces a small part of the
western boundary; and Biggar Water flows through
tho centre. The general character of the surface is
indicated in what we have said, in the preceding ar-
ticle, respecting the vale of Biggar Water. The
hill district is more extensive than the plain; and
the hills have a rounded contour, and an unpictur-
csque appearance. About 750 acres are under wood,
and about 400 are wildly pastoral ; but most of the
remainder of the surface either owns the dominion
of the plough or might easily be made to own it.
There nave been important recent improvements in
the reclaiming of land; and another very interesting
improvement was recently effected for restraining
the inundations of Biggar Water. The average
rent of land is about £1 per acre. The landowners
are numerous. The total yearly value of raw pro-
duce was estimated in 1835 at £12,028. Assessed
property in 1865, £12,890 17s. lOd. The chief man-
sions are Carwood, Biggar-Park, Cambus-Wallace,
and Edmonston-Castle, — the last a splendid pile,
built after a design by Gillespie Graham, and situ-
ated in a secluded vale in the east. A tumulus or
moat-hill, 120 paces in circuit at the base, 54 paces
in circuit at the top, and 36 feet high, is situated at
the west end of the town, and seems never to have
been opened. Vestiges of ancient camps, of round-
ish outline, occur in three places in the parish.
Four large stones, which seem to have formed part
of a Druidical circle, surmount a round hill on the
lands of Oldshields. " There is tradition of a battle
having been fought at the east end of the town, be-
tween the Scots, under the command of Sir William
Wallace, and the English army, who were said to
be 60,000 strong, wherein a great slaughter was
made on both sides, especially among the latter."
[Old Statistical Account.] " It has been alleged,"
Bays Mr. Carrick, " that, on this memorable occasion,
Edward commanded in person; but such could not
have been the case, as the English monarch was not
in the country at the time. That a considerable
battle was fought in the neighbourhood, there is
reason to believe, as well from current tradition, as
from the number of tumuli which are still to be seen.
These accounts, however, are decidedly at variance
with truth, both in regard to the amount of the
English, and the person who commanded. It is more
probable, that the enemy did not exceed 8,000, or at
most 10,000 men, part of which appears to have
been under the command of Roden, Lord de Which-
enour. On the side of the Scots, Sir Walter New-
bigging headed a body of cavalry. His son David,
a youth, at that time little more than fifteen years of
age, held a command under him, and the well-tried
military talents of the father were not disgraced by
the efforts of the young patriot, whose conduct on
this occasion was afterwards rewarded by the honour
of knighthood, probably conferred by the hand of
our hero himself. The 'family of Newbigging came
originally from England; and Sir Walter and his
son, on this occasion, found themselves opposed to
their near kinsman, the Lord of Whichenouiv ' [' Life
of Wallace.'] Edward II. spent the first six days of
October, 1310, at Biggar. — In 1651, Boghall castle
in this parish, held out for the commonwealth of
England, against General Leslie's army. This
strength has long been dismantled, and has nearly
disappeared, but more in consequence of the ruth-
less hand of man than that of time. Boghall stands
upon a flat, or rather a marshy ground, half-a-mile
south from the town, and is probably so called from
its situation. This castle formerly belonged to the
Flemings, Earls of Wigton, a family of great anti-
quity. They acquired the lands and barony of Big-
gar by the marriage of Sir Patrick Fleming with
one of the daughters and co-heiresses of the bravo
Sir Simon Fraser, of Oliver Castle. This Sir Patrick
was the second son of Sir Robert Fleming, who died
in 1314; and, like him, was a faithful friend to King
Robert Bruce. In 1451, Sir Robert de Fleming ob-
tained a cbai-ter from James II., erecting the town
of Biggar into a free burgh of barony, and by the
same was created a lord of parliament, by the title
of Lord Fleming of Cumbernauld; and, on the 15th
of June, 1452, Malcolm Fleming, his nephew, pro-
cured a grant under the great seal, of the lands and
barony of Boghall, and some other estates. The
road from Edinburgh to Dumfries by way of Elvan-
foot, and the branch of the Caledonian railway from
Symington to Peebles, intersect the parish ; and the
railway has a station at the town. Population of
the parish in 1831, 1,915; in 1861, 1,999. Houses,
337.
This parish is in the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Fleming
of Cumbernauld. Stipend, £263 14s. 7d.; glebe, £30.
Unappropriated teinds, £146 5s. 7d. Schoolmaster's
salary now is £60, with about £75 fees and other
emoluments. The parochial place of worship was
built in 1545, and largely endowed, by Malcolm
third Lord Fleming, lord-high-chamberlain of Scot-
land, as a collegiate church for the support of a pro-
vost, 8 prebendaries, 4 singing-boys, and 6 poor
men. It is a cruciform structure. The steeple was
never finished ; and porch, vestry, buttresses, arched
gateway, organ gallery, and oaken ceiling have been
destroyed; but the body of the building remains en-
tire and in good repair, and in 1834 was supplied
with new seats and with a large addition to the sit-
tings. There are two United Presbyterian churches
— the one with 750 sittings, the other rebuilt in
1866. The parochial school is recent and hand-
some. The burgh school was founded in 1859.
The Town op Biggar stands south of the centre
of the parish, at an intersection of public roads, 10J
miles south-east of Lanark, 15 west by south of
Peebles, and 28 south-west of Edinburgh. It con-
sists pincipally of one very wide street, situated on
a rising ground at a little distance from the left
bank of Biggar Water, and enjoying a fine southern
exposure. But a large modern suburb stands on the
right bank, partly on a steep brow, and partly on
lower ground, with sloping gardens; and to a spec-
tator approaching by the Carnwath road, this sub-
urb presents a very beautiful appearance. The
town is a burgh of barony. It has offices of the
Commercial, the Royal, and the National Banks.
It has also a savings' bank, a corn - exchange,
and three public libraries. Fairs are held on
the last Thursday of January, old style, on the last
Thursday of April, on the third Thursday of July,
old style, on the last Thursday of August, and on
the last Thursday of October, old style. Population
in 1841, 1.395; in 1861, 1,448. Houses, 238.
BILLIKELLET. See Cumbrays (The).
BILLY CASTLE, the ruin of an ancient fortalice
on the eastern verge of the parish of Bunkle, Ber-
wickshire. It stands on a grassy knoll, in a se-
questered situation, surrounded by wood, about a
mile south of the village of Auchincraw. Only a
piece of wall about 12 feet high and a few detached
fragments now remain. But the original castle was
surrounded by the dangerous morass of Billy mire,
and was a building of great strength and consider-
able size. It was erected in the 13th century to
protect the possessions of the powerful Earls of
Dunbar; it afterwards became the property of the
BILLY MIRE.
166
BIENAM.
scarcely less powerful Earls of Angus ; it figured
frequently in the severe contests of the Border war-
fare ; and it was finally taken, burned, and despoiled,
in 1544, by the Earl of Hertford. The present
estate of Billy comprises 920 acres, chiefly fine fer-
tile land, and is the property of W. F. Home, Esq.,
of Paxton,
BILLY MIRE, an ancient morass, now drained
and cultivated, extending from the vicinity of the
Eye to the vicinity of the Whitadder in the parishes
of Coldingham, Chirnside, and Bunkle, Berwickshire.
It was almost impassable, and was crossed by a
causeway, said to have been first constructed by the
Romans. This causeway was usually taken up
diu-ing the time of war between Scotland and Eng-
land. Billy Mire gives name to a trace which was
concluded between the Border authorities of the
two kingdoms in 1386; and also figures in history
as the scene of the murder of De la Beaute by some
of the Wedderbnrns in 1517. So recently as about
40 years ago, it was thickly covered with bog-reeds,
dwarf willows, and other aquatic plants, and was
resorted to by thousands of wild ducks. A number
of sluggish bums — among which are those of Bunkle
and Drsedan — drain the upper part of it, and flow
together to from a rivulet; and this rivulet now
bears the name of Billy Mire, and runs eastward,
along the mutual boundary of the parishes of Cold-
ingham and Chirnside, to the Eye in the vicinity of
Ayton. An ancient cromlech or Druidical altar,
popularly called the Pech stane, stands on the most
elevated point of ground between the Bunkle and
the Dra?dan, about a mile south of Billy Castle ; and
a large sepulchral cairn formerly stood near it, en-
vironed by huge masses of granite. The following
obscure traditionary rhyme, relative to these objects,
was current in the district some fifty years ago: —
By the Cairn and Pech stane
Grisly Draidan sat alane;
Billy wi' a kcnt sae stout.
Cries 'I'll turn grisly Dradan out ' —
Draidan leuch, and stalk'd awa',
And vanished in a babanqua."
BILLYNESS, the west headland of the bay of
Anstruther, Fifeshire.
BILSDEAN, a hamlet in the parish of Oldham-
stocks, Haddingtonshire. It stands on the road from
Edinburgh to Berwick, about a mile from the bound-
ary of Berwickshire.
BIMAR, a rocky isle in the frith of Forth, about
| of a mile south-west of North Queensferry, Fife-
shire. It is covered at high water; and a stone
beacon, 27 feet high, was erected on it a few years
ago by the Commissioners of Northern Lights.
BIN OF BURNTISLAND, a conspicuous hill in
the parish of Burntisland, south coast of Fifeshire.
It rises abruptly to the height of 625 feet above the
level of the sea, is situated about half a mile from
the beach, has a bare and ragged summit, and forms
a marked feature of the screens of the Forth, in
striking contrast to the fertility and brilliance all
around it.
BIN OF CULLEN, a remarkable hill in Banff-
shire, about 1J mile south-west of the town of
Cullen, and 2 miles from the sea, elevated 1,076
feet above sea-level. From its conical shape, it
forms a conspicuous land-mark to mariners. See
Cullen.
BINARTY. See Ballingbay.
BINCHINNAN. See Benchtnnan.
BINEND, a lake of 50 acres in extent in the
parish of Eaglesham, 3J miles west of the village of
Eaglesham, Renfrewshire.
BINNANS, a rocky hill, with a precipitous face
to the west, in the western extremity of the parish
of Greenock, Renfrewshire. It overhangs the east
side of the bay of Gourock, and commands a bril-
liant view of the upper frith of Clyde from Dunoon
to Dumbarton.
BINNIE, in the parish of TJphall, Linlithgowshire,
13 miles west of Edinburgh, and 2 miles from the
Union canal at Broxburn. There is a good sand-
stone quarry here, which is extensively used for build-
ing in Edinburgh and Glasgow. Binnie craig rises
to the height of about 450 feet.
BINNING, in the shire of Linlithgow, an ancient
parish annexed after the Reformation to the parish
of Linlithgow. Thomas Hamilton, who was by
James VI. made one of the senators in the college of
justice, secretary of state, and lord-advocate and
register, in 1613, was created Baron Binning and
Earl of Melrose, which title he afterwards changed
for that of Haddington. In 1627, he was constituted
lord-privy-seal, which office he held for ten years.
The title Lord Binning is borne by the eldest son o'
the Earl of Haddington.
BINNINGWOOD. See Ttnninghame.
BINNS. See Abercorn.
BINRAM'S CROSS. See Yarrow.
BIRDSTONE, a village in the parish of Campsie,
Stirlingshire. It is situated on the peninsula formed
by the confluence of Finglen Burn and Kelvin
Water, about a mile north of Kirkintilloch. Popula
tion, 100.
BIRGHAM, or Brigham, a village in the parish
of Eccles, Berwickshire. It stands adjacent to the
Tweed, on the road from Coldstream to Kelso,
directly opposite Carham in Northumberland, and
3 J miles west by south of Coldstream. When Henry
II. of England, relying on the alleged superiority ol
his clergy over those of Scotland, sent Hugh, Bishop
of Durham, into Scotland, in 1188, to collect funds
for carrying on a new crusade, the envoy, it is said,
was met at Brigham, by William the Lion, and some
of his nobles and prelates, who boldly denied the
authority of the English church over that of Scot-
land, and declined to allow the proposed subsidy to
be levied in Scotland. In 1289, a meeting of the
Estates of Scotland was held here to take into con-
sideration the proposal for a marriage between the
Prince of Wales, and the Princess Margaret of Scot-
land; and in July, 1290, the treaty of Brigham — as
it is called — was signed here, by which a lasting
peace seemed to be secured to the two kingdoms,
but which was rendered null by the death of the
young princess on whom so many fair hopes de-
pended, at Orkney, on her voyage to Scotland from
Norway, in September, 1290. A chapel stood at
Birgham in Popish times; and the burying ground
connected with-it still exists. Population of the
village, 241.
BIRKHILL. See Legeewood.
BIRNAM, a mountain in the parishes of Auchter-
gaven and Little Dunkeld, Perthshire. It rises from
the right bank of the Tay, at the entrance to the
Highlands, and attains a height of 1,580 feet above
sea-level. Its summits command an extensive view
of Strathmore, Stormont, Athole, and Strathbraan.
Its sides and skirts were anciently covered with
forest, but are now marked only by the scaurs of
slate quarries and the feathery growth of young larch
plantations. An ancient vitrified fort of 320 paces
in circumference was recently discovered on one of
its summits. But the grand interest of Birnam con-
sists in its association with the story of Macbeth, as
immortalised by Shakspeare ; and this is well told
as follows in 'the Beauties of Scotland:' — "When
Malcolm Canmore came into Scotland, supported
by English auxiliaries, to recover his dominions
from Macbeth the Giant, as the country people
BIRNIE.
1G7
BIRSAY.
called him, lie marched first towards Duukcld, in
order to meet with those friends who had promised
to join turn from the north. This led him to Birnam
wood, where accidentally they were induced, either
by way of distinction, or from some other motive, to
ornament their bonnets, or to cany about with them
in their hands the branches of trees. The people in
the neighbourhood stated, as the tradition of the
country, that they were distinguished in this situa-
tion by the spy whom Macbeth had stationed to
watch their motions. He then began to despair, in
consequence of the witches' predictions, who had
warned him to beware ' when Birnam wood should
come to Dunsinnan ; ' and when Malcolm prepared
to attack the castle, where it was principally defend-
ed by the outer rocks, he immediately deserted it;
and flying ran up the opposite hill, pursued by Mac-
duff; but finding it impossible to escape, he threw
himself from the top of the hill, was killed upon the
rocks, and buried at the Lang Man's Grave, as it is
called, which is still extant. Not far from this
grave is the road where, according to tradition,
Banco was murdered. The resemblance between
these traditions and Shakspeare's account of the
same event, in his tragedy of Macbeth, is extremely
remarkable, and suggests the idea that this celebrated
dramatist must have collected the tradition upon the
spot; because, had he taken the subject of his play
from the Scottish history, he must have represented
Macbeth as having perished at a different part of the
country. The only material difference between the
tradition and the tragedy is, that by the former Mac-
beth cast himself from the top of a rock; whereas
Shakspeare, in consistency with poetical justice, as
well as to give greater interest to the catastrophe,
represents the usurper as falling in single combat
with Macduff, whom he had so deeply injured. In
Guthrie's ' History of Scotland,' it is stated, that,
anno 1599, King James desired Elizabeth to send
him a company of English comedians; with which
request she complied; and James gave them a
license to act in his capital, and before his court.
' I have great reason,' he adds, ' to think that the
immortal Shakspeare was of the number. There is
no doubt that in 1589 plays were actually exhibited
in Perth, within a few miles of Dunsinnan or Dun-
siuain. From the old records kept at Perth of that
year, it appears that on the 3d of June the kirk-
session of Perth authorized this amusement, after
having examined the copy of the play. The actors
were at that time all of them men, no women hav-
ing appeared on the stage till the reign of Charles
the Second." See Dunsinnan.
BIRNIE, a parish in Morayshire, bounded on the
west, north, and east, by the parish of Elgin, and
on the south by Rothes and Dallas. Its post-town
is Elgin. Its length northward, to within 2§ miles
of Elgin, is 7 miles, and its average breadth is If
mile. The greater part of the surface consists of
high hills covered with heath. The cultivated
soil, however, in the valleys and on the sides
of hills, and the several falls of water in the
rocky channels of the rivulets, have formed some
beautifully diversified scenes. Three rivulets, the
Lennock, the Barden, and the Rushcrook, intersect
the parish, and flow into the river Lossie ; and this
river receives the Lennock on the west side of the
parish, and then flows through the northern end.
There are about 1 00 acres of deep rich loam on its
banks. It abounds iu burn-trouts and eels ; and
about Lammas salmon and white trouts swim up,
and afford fine diversion to the angler. The Lossie
is subject to violent floods. Its most remarkable
inundations happened in the years 1768, 1782, and
1829. The parish contains 5,784 Scots acres, of
which 850 were under cultivation in 1791, and 2,130
in 1829. It is divided into 40 compact farms, vary-
ing from 20 to 120 acres, and held in leases of 19
years. About 450 acres are under wood. The real
rent, in 1791, was £300; in 1835, £1,200. The
only landowner is the Earl of Seafield ; and he has
done a great deal for the agricultural improvement
of the parish, advancing the sum of £5 to his ten-
ants for every acre of waste land brought under
cultivation. The Biblestone, having the figure of a
book engraven upon it, lying about a mile east from
the church, on the side of the road leading from
Eirnie to Rothes, has probably been placed there as
a landmark. The cairn of Balforman, of a conical
figure, 300 feet in circumference at the base, has
been probably placed over the remains of a brave
man whose exploits are now forgotten. A cave in
the middle of a steep rock, near the Gedloch, was,
according to tradition, haunted about 150 years ago
by a gang of armed ruffians who had no visible way
of obtaining the means of subsistence but by theft
and robbery. Some vestiges of an encampment can
be traced near the burn of Barden. It commands a
prospect of the Moray frith, from Speymouth to
Cromarty bay. Probably the Danes, after invading
this part of the country, had a camp there. Popu
lation in 1831, 408; in 1861, 411. Houses, 72.
Assessed property in 1860, £1,628.
This parish is in the presbytery of Elgin, and
synod of Moray. Patron, the Earl of Moray. Sti-
pend, £156 8s. 4d. ; glebe, £17. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50. The church was repaired in 1734 and
1817, and seats 253. It is a very old structure of
hewn freestone, and consists of a nave and choir
The late Mr. Shaw — a learned and respectable cler
gyman of this presbytery, who published the history
of Morayshire in 1775 — says, that it is probable that
the bishop's first cathedral in this diocese was situ-
ated in Birnie, and that Simeon de Tonei, one of the
bishops of Moray, was buried in Birnie in 1184.
" It is held in great veneration by many in this
county," says the Statistical reporter in 1791.
" They still, in some measure, entertain a supersti-
tious conceit that prayers there offered up three
several Sabbaths will surely be heard. Insomuch
that when a person is indisposed, or of bad beha-
viour, this common saying obtains, ' You have need
to be prayed for thrice in the church of Birnie, that
you may either end or mend.' " A stone baptistery,
and an old bell, made of a mixture of silver and
copper, of an oblong figure, named the coronach,
are still kept in the church as relies of antiquity.
Tradition relates that the bell was made at Rome,
and consecrated by the Pope. — There is a female
school.
BIRNS WATER, a rivulet of Haddingtonshire.
It rises on the west side of Lammerlaw, near the
boundary-line with Berwickshire, and rang about 7
miles north-westward on the boundary between the
parishes of Hurnbie, Ormiston, and Pencaitland on
the left, and the parishes of Gilford, Bolton, and
Salton on the right, to a confluence with the Tyne
between Pencaitland and Salton. It is rather larger
than the Tvue.
BIRRENS. See Middlebie.
BIRRENSWARK. See Beunswark.
BIRSAY and HARRAY, an united _ parish in
Pomona or the mainland of Orkney. Birsay has a
post-office of its own name ; and so also has flan-ay.
Birsay occupies the north-west of Pomona, and is
bounded on the west and north by the sea, and
on other sides by the parishes of Evie, Rendal, Har-
ray and Sandwick. It is about 8 miles long, and
about 5 miles broad. It is a hilly but not moun-
tainous district. There are six lakes, which abound
BIRSAY.
168
BIRSE.
with ducks and other kinds of water-towl, and with
swans in the spring and fall of the year. There are
two or three small burns containing fine trout, and
sometimes salmon. The extent of sea-coast is about
1 0 miles ; the shore is rocky. The flood-tide sets
right in from the north-west upon the point of the
Brough of Birsay, where it splits, one part flowing
eastward toward Evie sound, whence it goes away
with a rapid stream toward Kirkwall ; and the other
westward down the Sandwick shore, till it gets in
to the indraught of Hoy sound, where it becomes
very strong. The headlands are Marwick head on
the west, the Brough-head on the north-west, and
the North-craig on the north. The hills are covered
with heath, and what is here called Ivbba, a sort of
grass which feeds the cattle in summer time, and
generally consists of diffei^nt species of carices,
bent, and other moor-grasses. The soil in what is
called the barony of Birsay is a rich loam, perhaps
the most fertile in Orkney, capable of comparison
with much good land in the best agricultural dis-
tricts of Scotland. The chief minerals are limestone,
an excellent flag claystone, and abundance of build-
ing-stones, hut no sandstone. The principal land-
owner is the Earl of Zetland ; but there are about
forty others. The wild quadrupeds are rabbits,
Norwegian rats, short-tailed field-mice, common
mice, and a small species of mice called here wights.
Seals and otters are found; and cod, dogfish, her-
rings, lobsters, and other sea-animals are fished.
Upwards of twenty fishing-boats belong to the par-
ish. Straw-plaiting employs many females. The
linen manufacture was once considerable, but has
nearly disappeared. There are several ancient
standing-stones, and many Picts' houses. Remains
of popish chapels are numerous, because every Erys-
land of 18 penny land had one for matins and ves-
pers, but now all are in ruins. There are no towns,
and only one ancient ruinous building, which was
the palace of the Earls of Orkney. Robert Stuart,
natural brother to Queen Mary, and his son Patrick,
made great additions to this place; it is now in
ruins, hut has been built upon the model of Holy-
roodhouse, being a square area, with a well in the
middle. Above the gate was the famous inscription,
which, among other points of dittay, cost Earl Patrick
his head. It run as follows : " Dominus Robertas
Stuartus, Alius Jacobi quinti Rex Scotorum, hoc
opus instruxit." Above his coat of arms was the
following motto: "Sic fuit, est, et erit." — Harray
lies south of the east side of Birsay, is wholly an
inland district, and occupies nearly the centre of
Pomona. It is about 6 miles long and 4 miles
broad. The surface is flat and rather swampy, and
is intersected by many burns. Part of it consists
of pretty good land, and part is very unproductive.
There are two lakes, — one of them pretty large,
abounding in excellent trout, and frequented by
great numbers of aquatic birds. Population of the
united parish in 1831, 2,387; in 1861, 2,593.
Houses, 593. Population of Birsay in 1831, 1,652 ;
in 1861, 1,774. Houses, 418.
The united parish is in the presbytery of Cairston
and synod of Orkney. Patron, the" Earl of Zetland.
Stipend, £218 6s. 8d.; glebe, £21. Schoolmaster's
salary, £40, with house and garden. The parochial
church of Birsay was built in 1664, and enlarged in
1760, and contains 565 sittings. The parochial
church of Harray was built in 1836, and contains
450 sittings. The parish minister and an assistant
officiate alternately in these churches. There is
one Free church for Birsay, and another for Harray
and Sandwick. The attendance at the former in
1851 was 338, — at the latter, about 300; and the
yearly sum raised in 1865 in connexion with the
former was £126 13s. Hid., — and in connexion
with the latter, £8S 14s. 6d. There is an Original
Secession church in Birsay, built in 1829, and con-
taining 470 sittings. There is an Independent
chapel in Harray, with an attendance of 60. There
are three Assembly's schools, one Society's school,
two Free Church schools, and eight private schools.
— The Norse language prevailed longer in Harray
than in any other part of the country, but is now
worn out. Fairs for cattle and horses are held
thrice a-year in Birsay and thrice a-year in Harray.
BIRSE, a parish, containing a post-office of its
own name, on the southern border of the highland
district of Aberdeenshire. It is bounded by the
counties of Kincardine and Forfar, and by the
parishes of Aboyne, Lumphanan, and Kincardine
O'Neil. The boundary-line along part of the south
and all the west is a watershed of the Grampians ;
and the boundary-line along most of the north
is the river Dee. The parish is about 10 miles long
and 10 miles broad. It may be divided into three
large straths or districts. The largest, in the south-
east part of the parish, is called Feughside. It has
the Feugh, a tributary of the Dee, running through
it; and is about 3 miles long, and 2 broad. On the
banks of the Feugh, and among the Grampian hills
is situated the forest or glen of Birse. The middle
strath or district is called Glenchatt. It is about 4
miles long, and 1 broad. On the south of the burn
is Midstrath, and on the north Ballogie. The most
northerly district is along the south side of the Dee ;
through it runs the burn of Birse. The church and
manse are situated here. This district is about 2J
miles long, and 1£ broad. It is vulgarly called the
Six Towns. The whole parish is divided into what
was called 24 towns; and each town, in 1792, was
supposed to contain from 80 to 85 arable acres.
The surface is rocky and mountainous, but beauti-
fully diversified with hill and dale, wood and water.
Mount Battock is on the southern boundary; and
three great ridges extend south-westward within
the parish to the higher Grampians. Peter-hill, the
White-hill, and Mulbrax, are in the southern ridge.
The Ords, the Shooting-greens, Tomcaim, Corse-
Dardar, Midstrath, Arntilly, Lamachip, and Brack-
enstaik, are in the middle ridge. The most north-
erly ridge takes its rise at Inchbair, and terminates
at Cairnferg. On the west of the parish are the
heights of Birsemore, Deuchry, and Mount-Ganiach.
Mount Battock rises 3,465 feet above the level of
the sea. Mount Ganiach is conjectured to he about
1,000 feet above sea-level. Peter-hill and Mul-
brax may be rated at 2,700 feet. Cairnferg, a re-
markably conspicuous conical mount, may be about
2,100 feet. On Mount Ganiach there is a well
called St. Corn's well; but concerning it there is no
tradition. The Dee here abounds with excellent
salmon, grilse, sea-trout, sterlings, (here called
dowbrecks,) trout, and parr, with some pikes, fresh
water flounders, with finnicks. Feugh is the most
considerable interior stream. It rises on the western
skirts of the parish from Mount Ganiach, and flows
eastward. It produces salmon, and most of the
sorts of fish above-mentioned, and would abound
with them were they not stopped by a considerable
waterfall near its influx into the Dee, opposite to
Banchory-Ternan, which prevents the salmon from
getting up except when the river is flooded. The
landowners of Birse are the Marquis of Huntly,
Farquharson of Finzean, Innes of Ballogie, and
Gerard of Midstrath. The New Statistical Ac-
count, written in 1842, estimates the total of arable
land at 3,360 imperial acres, the total of land under
wood at 3,710 imperial acres, and the total yearly
value of land produce at £8,542. One principal
BIRSELEY.
169
BLACKBURN.
facility of communication is the great road from
Brechin to Huntly and Inverness, across the Cairn
0' Mount and Grampians, which enters Birse at the
bridge of Wliitestono, a mile north of the inn of
Cutties-Hillock, and leads northward to the Dee at
Inchhair. Another road passes through the greater
part of the parish, from the ferry over the Dee at
Aboyne, to the bridge of Whitestone. There is a
bridge over the burn of Birse, nigh the church ; and
another at Potarch, over the Dee, near Inchhair, by
which the great north road is carried across the
Dee. This parish is famous for its honey of great
richness and flavour. Both the practices and the
implements of husbandry have of late years been
very greatly improved. Most of the farms are not
larger than from 30 to 60 acres. Females practise
extraordinary industry in the knitting of stockings.
Fairs are held in May, October, and November at
the Bridge of Potarch." Population in 1831, 1,476;
in 1861, 1,284. Houses, 258. Assessed property
in 1S43, £4,106; in I860, £4,706.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kincardine
O'Neil, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Crown,
Stipend, £158 7s. 4d. ; glebe, £7. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50 with fees. The parish church was built
in 1779, and has between 500 and 600 sittings.
There is a small Roman Catholic chapel at Ballogie,
with an attendance of about 60. There are an en-
dowed school, a Society's school, two or three other
(schools, a savings' bank, and a parochial religious
library. On the hill, about a mile north-east of
Finzean, bearing the name of Corse-Dardar, there
is a place marked near the way-side with a long
granite-stone, which is reported to mark the spot
where King Dardanus, the 20th from Fergus I., was
put to death.
BIRSELEY, a locality in the parish of Tranent,
Haddingtonshire, about 1-i m. south of the spot on
which the battle of Prestonpans was fought in 1745.
It was from the rising grounds here, or ' Birseley
brae,' that the Chevalier's troops descended to meet
their opponents.
BISHOPBRIGGS, or Bishop's Bridge, a village,
with a post-office, in the parish of Cadder, 4i miles
north-east of Glasgow, Lanarkshire. The Edin-
burgh and Glasgow railway passes near it, and has
a station here. Deep cuttings of the railway
through rock occur both east and west of this sta-
tion. Population of the village, 658.
BISHOPMILL, a village in the parish of New
Spynie, Morayshire. It stands on the left bank of
the Lossie, and on the road from Elgin to Lossie-
mouth, closely adjacent to Elgin, and within the
parliamentary boundaries of that burgh. A hand-
some iron bridge connects it with Elgin. A stone-
bridge formerly stood here, but was swept away by
the great flood of 1829. Population of the village
in 1861, 1,041. See Elgin.
BISHOP'S FOREST. See Kirkfatrick Iron-
gray.
BISHOP'S LOCH, a small piece of water on the
southern skirts of the parish of New Maehar, Aber-
deenshire, between Loch hills and Foulin hill. See
Machar (New).
BISHOP'S LOCH, a narrow strip of water,
about a mile in. length, lying between Cadder parish
and Old Monkland, in the shire of Lanark.
BISHOFTON, a village with a post-office in the
parish of Erskine, 5J miles north-west of Paisley,
Renfrewshire. The Glasgow and Greenock railway
passes near it, and has a station here. Bishopton
House, once a favourite country residence of the
Archbishop of Glasgow, stands high on the adjacent
hill side, overlooking the station, and commanding
a delightful view. Bishopton ridge, which divides
the low land of Gryfedale from the immediate banks
of the Clyde, is composed of solid whinstone rock.
The Glasgow and Greenock railway passes through
it for a distance of 2,300 yards. There are two tun-
nels in the middle of the ridge, having an open part
100 yards long, and 70 feet deep, between them.
These tunnels are 320 and 340 yards long respec-
tively. The depth of the open cutting at the en-
trance to each is 70 feet; and the length, from the
face of the east tunnel is 748 yards, and from the
face of the west tunnel 946 yards. Population of
the village, 341.
BIXTER. See Sasdstino.
BIZZY-BERRY. See Biggar.
BLACKADDER (The), a river of Berwickshire.
The name is usually pronounced and sometimes
written Blackater, and is probably a corruption ot
Blackwater. The river rises among the north-
western uplands of the parish of Westruther and on
Dirrington Law in the parish of Longformacus ;
and it flows first south-eastward to Greenlaw, and
then north-eastward through the parishes of Green-
law, Fogo, and Edrom, to the Whitadder, which it
joins a little above Allanton. The total length of
this stream is about 20 miles. The height of its
head-springs above sea-level may he 1,130 feet. It
is supposed to derive its name from the prevailing
dark tinge of its waters, occasioned by the nature of
the soil throusrh which it flows.
BLACKADDER-HOUSE. See Edrom.
BLACK-ANDREW-HILL. See Selkirkshire.
BLACKBURN, a village with a post-office in
the parishes of Whitburn and Livingstone, Lin-
lithgowshire. It stands on the south road from
Edinburgh to Glasgow, 2J miles south of Bathgate,
2f east of Whitburn, and 3J west of Livingstone.
Almond Water, which is here a very small stream,
washes it. Blackburn House stands about a mile
to the east. A cotton-mill in the village employs
about 120 hands, and a flax mill about 42. Here is
an Independent chapel, which was built in 1825,
and contains 200 sittings. Population in 1861, of
the whole village, 758 ; of the Livingstone section,
640.
BLACKBURN, a village conjoint with Park-
nook, in the parish of Dunfermline, Fifeshire.
Population of Blackburn and Parknook, 264.
BLACKBURN, a village, with a post-office, in
the parish of Kinnellar, about 2 miles south-east of
Kintore, Aberdeenshire. Here is a Free church,
whose total jxarly proceeds in 1865 amounted to
£134 3s. l£d. An abortive attempt was made to
establish a large distillery here between 1821 and
1831.
BLACKBURN (The), a tributary of the Liddel,
in the parish of Castletown, Roxburghshire. It is
celebrated for its romantic falls and cascades. One
of the falls is 37 J feet in height, and 20 in breadth;
and another 31A feet in height, and 36 in breadth.
In one part of its course a natural bridge of stone
seemed to he thrown across the river. It was 55
feet long, 31 in span, and 10J broad ; and the thick-
ness of the arch was 2i feet of solid stone. The
arch was not composed of an entire rock, but had
the appearance of several square stones united toge-
ther in the neatest manner. The height of the arch
from the water was 31 feet. This bridge gave way
in April 1810.
BLACKBURN (The), a tributary of the North
Esk, in the parish of Marykirk, Kincardineshire.
BLACKBURN (The), a rivulet of the basin of
the Northern Dee, flowing chiefly in the parish of
Banchory -Ternan, Kincardineshire, but passing over
the county boundary into the Loch of Drum iu
Aberdeenshire.
BLACKBURN.
170
BLACKHOUSE
BLACKBURN (The), a tributary of the Lossie,
in the parish of Dallas, Morayshire.
BLACK CABT. See Cam.
BLACK CAVE. See Aeean.
BLACKCBAIG-, a village in the parish of Minni-
gaff, Kirkcudbrightshire.
BLACK CRAIG, a mountain, 1,600 feet high
above the level of the Nith, in the parish of New
Cumnock, Ayrshire.
BLACK CEAIG, a hill in the parish of Creich,
Fifeshire, commanding a brilliant and extensive
view of the lower basin of the Tay and the frontier
Grampians.
BLACK CRAIG, or Craigdhu, a frontier moun-
tain of the Grampians, apparently between 1,800
and 2,000 feet high, in the parish of Port of Men-
teith, Perthshire. Its outline resembles that of a
hog's back. Its composition is conglomerate and
limestone, — the latter of a blue colour streaked
with white, and possessing enough of the proper-
ties of marble to be suitable for mantel-pieces.
BLACK DEVON. See Clackmannanshire.
BLACK ESK. See Esk.
BLACKFORD, a parish, containing a post-office
village of its own name, in the south-eastern part of
Perthshire. It is bounded on the south by the
counties of Clackmannan and Stirling, and on the
other sides by the parishes of Dunblane, Mutb.il,
Crieff, Trinity-Gask, Auchterarder, and Glendevon.
Its length northward is 10 miles, and its breadth is
about 5 miles. The Devon traces the southern bound-
ary ; the Earn traces the northern boundary ; and the
Madrany, the Ruthven, and the Allan have their
early course in the interior. The southern district
is part of the Ochils, — steep and craggy toward the
Devon, but fiat and moorish toward the north.
The central district is largely occupied by the
great planted moor of Tullibardine ; yet contains
some lovely tracts, — particularly the charming and
romantic Kincardine Glen, along the course of the
Madrany. The northern district consists of rich,
well-cultivated lands, of similar character to those
of the other outspread parts of Stratheam. The
climate of the upland tracts is moist and churlish.
There are a few small lakes. Sandstone is quarried
of a very hard quality, well adapted for millstones.
The chief landowners are Lord Stratballan, Lord
Camperdown, and Moray of Abercaimey. The
Scottish Central railway and the great east road
from Stirling to Perth go through the parish ; and
the former has a station here. There were formerly
several chapels in this parish ; and, before the year
1745, divine service was occasionally performed in
one at the house of Gleneagles, the burial-place of
the family of Haldane; and in another near the
castle of Tullibardine, in the choir of which the
Dukes of Athole formerly interred. Besides these,
there are the vestiges of two chapels in Mahany, at
one of which is a burying-ground still in use by the
inhabitants of the neighbourhood. Upon an emi-
nence, fronting Gleneagles, are the vestiges of a small
Roman camp ; there are also several Druidical cir-
cles. In this parish, the ancestors of the Duke of
Montrose had their ordinary residence, at the castle
of Kincardine, which was burned in the time of the
Civil wars, and has never been rebuilt. In Tulli-
bardine stand the remains of a castle of that name,
the seat, in former times, of the Earls of Tullibar-
dine, who, for a long time after that family came to
the titles of Athole, resided here some part of the
year. In 1715, it was garrisoned by a party of the
Earl of Marr's army, and taken by the Duke of
Argyle ; before the year 1745, Lord George Murray
and his family inhabited it ; but since that time it
has been suffered to go to ruin. Tullibardine gives
the title of Marquis to the illustrious family oi
Murray, Duke of Athole. The village of Blackford
is situated nearly in the centre of the parish, 4J
miles south-west of Auchterarder, and 10 miles
north-east of Dunblane. Fairs are held here on the
3d Wednesday of April, and the 3d Wednesday of
October. Population of the village in 1861, 881.
Population of the parish in 1831, 1,918; in 1861,
2,041. Houses, 312. Assessed property in 1843,
£10,700; in 1865, £14,667 0s. 6d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Auchterarder,
and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, Mrs.
Home Drummond of Blair-Diummond. Stipend,
£207 lis.; glebe, £18. Schoolmaster's salary now
is £55, with £22 fees. The parochial church was
built in 1738, and repaired about 1835, and contains
500 sittings. There is a Free church ; attendance,
200; yearly sum raised in 1865, £155 12s. 3|d.
There are three private schools.
BLACKFORD HILL, ,an eminence about 1J
mile south of Edinburgh, divided from Braid hill on
the south by a ravine which is intersected by Braid
burn. " It is well worth while," says Campbell in
his Journey from Edinburgh, " to ascend to the top
of Blackford hill, from which a fine prospect of Edin-
burgh, the frith of Forth, the coast of Fife, the Lo-
mond and Ochil hills, even to the Grampian moun-
tains, is commanded. In ascending from the bottom
of the valley through which the rivulet winds, we
first reach one summit ; and in gaining the next, the
heaving into view of the castle, spires, and other
buildings of the city, piled in irregular masses, and
enveloped in the sombre obscurity of its smoke, seems
as if all were in motion by the power of enchant-
ment. On obtaining the topmost ridge of the hill,
an extent of prospect truly sublime and beautiful
spreads out before us. Immediately beneath the
north brow, Blackford mansion-house, half hid
among trees, and several others near it, of aii old
construction and aspect, appear on the plain below.
One of these, namely, Grange house, was that in
which Principal Robertson breathed his last."
BLACKFRIARS. See Ate, Edinburgh, Glas-
gow, Perth, Andrews (St.), Stirling, Wigton.
BLACKHALL, a station on the Wilsonton rail-
way in Lanarkshire, 3 J miles north-east of Morning-
side, and 10J south-south-west of Bathgate.
BLACKHALL, a post-office village 2J miles west
by north of Edinburgh, on the road thence to
Queensferry. Corstorphine hill and Craigleith quarry
are near it. See Craigleith.
BLACKHALL See Paisley and Strachan.
BLACKHILLOCK, a post-office station, subordi-
nate to Keith, Banffshire.
BLACKHILLS. See Skene.
BLACKHOPE SCARS, or Bi.akehope Scaues,
the loftiest of the Moorfoot hills, on the mutual
border of the parish of Innerleithen, Peebles-shire,
and the parishes of Temple and Heriot, Edinburgh-
shire. It has an altitude of about 1,000 feet above
the stream at its base, and of 2,193 feet above the
level of the sea ; and is the highest ground in the
Lothians. A brook called Blackhopo Water flows
away from it to a confluence with Heriot Water.
BLACKHOUSE, an old square tower, on Douglas
burn in Selkirkshire, about 5 miles south-west of
Traquair, one of the most ancient seats of the puissant
family of Douglas. It now gives name to a sheep-
fami of about 4,000 acres in size, belonging to the
Earl of Traquair. It is said to be mentioned as early
as the reign of Malcolm Canmore. The tower might
be built by William, first Earl of Douglas, when he
succeeded to the Forest; for Robert Bruce had
granted to his favourite warrior, Sir James Douglas,
the forests of Selkirk and Traquair. From the
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BLACKHOUSE HEIGHTS. 171
BLACKSIIAW.
tower of Blackhouso, according to tradition, Lady
Margaret Douglas was carried oft' by her lover, be-
tween whom and her seven brothers a most bloody
scene took place, as they all perished in attempting
to bring her back to her father's house. Her lover
was also slain. Seven largo stones, on the heights
of Blackhouse, are pointed out as marking the differ-
ent spots where the brothers fell. Lady Margaret
and her lover are s tid to have been buried in St.
Mary's chapel, which stood in the neighbourhood.
"Lord William was buried in St. Mario's kirk,
Lady Margaret in Marie's quire ;
Out o' the huly's grave crew a bonnic red rose,
And out o' the knight's a brier.
And they twa met. and they twa plait,
And lain they wad be near;
And all the world might ken right weel,
They wore twa lovers dear.
But bye and rade the black Douglas,
And wow but be was rough 1
For be pull'd up the boiuiy brier.
And lbnig'd in St. Marie's loch."
Their fate is commemorated in a very beautiful tradi-
tionary ballad, of which we have quoted the last three
stauzas. In a MS. in the possession of Lord Traquair,
dated 1711 — from which the circumstances above-
mentioned are extracted — this is called ' Lord William
and Fair Margaret.' But like most of our popular bal-
lads it has borne different names. It is published, in
the Ministrclsy of the Border, vol. iii. 243, &c, under
the title of ' The Douglas Tragedy.' This place
is merely mentioned by Chalmers as " Blackhouse
tower, on Douglas burn." Godscroft says, that "the
eldest sonne" of William, "first created Lord of
Douglas at the parliament of Forfaire," held by
Malcolm Canmore, "was Sir John of Douglasbum,
which is a parcell of ground and manour lying be-
tween Ettrick forrest and Peebles." According to
this writer, "he and his brother William were both
knights at the same parliament," in which their
father was nobilitated. It may be added, as a fur-
ther memorial of the connection of this district with
the Crown, that the name of the King's road is still
given to a road which rims from Blackhouse to Hen-
derland on Megget Water, where it is said there
was another royal hunting-seat. This place was
held, in a later age, by that famous freebooter Cock-
burn; and here his tombstone is still pointed out.
On the banks of this beautiful stream, it is, indeed,
said, there are the remains of two old towers, which
appear to have been built, partly for accommodating
the kings of Scotland, when on their hunting parties
in the forest ; as well as the traces of three or four
roads in different directions across the hills, sup-
posed to have been cut out for the King and his suite
when thev went a-hunting.
BLACKHOUSE HEIGHTS, a group of moun-
tains on the mutual border of Selkirkshire and
Peebles - shire, 4 miles north-west of Blackhouse
Tower, and 6 south-south- west of the town of Peebles.
They have a wild and sequestered character, and
attain an altitude of 2,370 feet above sea-level. The
Douglas Burn flows from their eastern base.
BLACK ISLE. See Ardmeanach.
BLACKLARG. See Kirkcudbrightshire and
Dalrt.
BLACK LOCH. See Mearns, Slamannan, and
Dumfries.
BLACKNESS, a small sea-port in the parish of
Carriden, Linlithgowshire. It is situated on the
frith of Forth, 3J miles east-south-east of Borrow-
stounness, 4 north-east of Linlithgow, and 5J west-
north-west of South Queensferry. It was anciently
the port, of Linlithgow, and a place of extensive
commerce ; and it also took great consequence from
a castle adjacent to it, which is supposed by some
antiquaries to mark the eastern extremity of An-
toninus' Wall, and was long one of the most impor-
tant fortresses in the south of Scotland. See An-
toninus' Wall. Sir Robert Sibhald says respecting
Blackness : " There were many rich men masters
of ships lying there; and the cities of Glasgow,
Stirling, and Linlithgow, had a great trade from
thence with Holland, Bremen, Hamburgh, Queens-
burgh, and Dautziek, and furnished all the West
country with goods they imported from these
places, and were loaded outwards with the product
of our own country." The attack of the port of
Blackness was usually a principal object with the
English in their expeditions into the frith of
Forth. In 1481, tinder the reign of James III.,
they burnt the town with a store-ship which was
lying in the harbour. When, in 1487, the nobles,
irritated by the conduct of James, took up arms, in
the course of military operations, they met his troops
near Blackness, and a skirmish ensued, which, ter-
minating to the disadvantage of the King, he con-
cluded with them the pacification of Blackness;
which, however, did not produce any lasting har-
mony. During the victorious expedition of Somer-
set into Scotland, under the reign of Edward III. of
England, Blackness was one of the objects of attack.
The result is thus stated by Patten, in his narrative
of this expedition: " My Lord Clynton, hye Admiral
of this flete, taking with him the galley (whearof one
Broke is Captain) and iiii. or v of our smaller ves-
sels besides, all well appointed with municion and
men, rowed up the frith a ten myle westward, to a
haven town standyng on the south shore called
Blacknestes, whereat, towardes the water syde is a
castel of a pretty strength. As nye whear unto as
the depth of the water thear woold suffer, the
Skots, for savegard, had laid ye Mary Willoughby,
and the Antony of Newcastel, ii tall ships, whiehe
with extreme injury they had stollen from us before
tynie, whe no war between us; with these ley thear
also an oother large vessel called (by them) the
Bosse, and a vii mo, whearof part laden with mer-
chandize. My Lord Clynton, and his copenie, wt
right hardy approche, after a great conflicte betwixt
the castel and our vessels, by fyne force, wan from
them those iii ships of name, and burnt all ye residue
before their faces as they ley." Under the reign of
Charles II., Blackness was one of the King's castles,
and the Earl of Livingston was hereditary constable.
In the course of the 16th century Borrowstounness,
being nearer to Linlithgow, and possessing some
other advantages of situation, rose to a rivalship
with Blackness; and in 1680, it succeeded, notwith-
standing the opposition of the latter place, in being
declared a port for entry. Blackness thereupon sunk
gradually into total insignificance; and now its
harbour is in ruins, its custom-house is used for
lodgings, and its only trade is a trivial exportation
of bricks and tiles, and a trivial importation of lime
and manure. The castle, however, is one of the
ancient fortresses whose preservation was guaranteed
by the Act of Union ; and therefore it is still kept
up. Population, 107.
BLACKPOTS. See Bovndie.
BLACKRIDGE, a village in the parish of Tor-
phichen, Linlithgowshire. It stands on the Bar-
bauchlaw burn, and on the middle road from Edin-
burgh to Glasgow, bh miles west by south of Bath-
gate. Here is a Free church preaching station ; sum
raised in 1865, £45 16s. 6d. Population, 94.
BLACKSBOAT, a station on the Strathspey rail-
way, 8J miles south-south-west of Aberlour.
BLACKSHAW, a village in the parish of Caer-
BLACKSHIELS.
172
BLAIE-ATHOLE.
laverock, Dumfries-shire. A low tract around it
and toward the Solway is called Blackshaw flat.
BLACKSHIELS, a hamlet with a post-office in
the parish of Humhie, East Lothian. It is situated
near the north base of Soutra hill, 15 miles south-
east of Edinburgh, on the road thence to Lauder and
Kelso.
BLACKSIDE-END, a mountain on the north-
east boundary of the parish of Som in Ayrshire. It
has an altitude of above 1,500 feet, and commands
a splendid view, embracing parts, it is said, of no
fewer than sixteen different counties. A number of
years ago, a curious phenomenon was observed near
this hill after a thunder-storm which occurred about
the middle of March. Near the base of the hill,
something like an open quarry, which had not been
perceptible on the preceding day, attracted the at-
tention of people in the neighbotirhood, and on going
to the spot they found, to their astonishment, an ex-
cavation in the ground 60 feet long, 40 broad, and
16 in depth. The earth scooped out was not scat-
tered round the pit, but thrown down at one place
at 120 feet distance from the hole or cavity; and
part remained in lumps of from 3 to 6 feet square,
with many stones of some hundred weight. The
earth on the sides and bottom of the pit remained
firm and solid, without rent or aperture. The soil
was what is called hill-moss or black earth, a few
inches in thickness; and under the moss was hard
till, some of it of a red colour, and part of it blue,
without any appearance of rock of any kind. The
excavation was believed to have been effected by
lightning on the preceding day.
BLACKSTON, a station on the Monkland rail-
way, 11 miles north-east of Airdrie.
fiLACKWATEE (The), a head stream of the
Deveron, in the parish of Cabrach, Banffshire. It
rises on the southern margin of that parish, and
runs about 8 miles north-north-eastward, along a
grandly highland valley, to a confluence with • he
Deveron at Dalriach. The Duke of Richmond has
a deer-forest and a shooting-lodge in its basin ; and
Malcolm Canmore is said by tradition to have had a
residence in a remarkably sequestered and romantic
part of its course which still bears the name of King's
haugh.
BLACKWATER (The), a stream of the parish of
Kilmorie, in the island of Arran. It rises a little
south of the centre of the island, and flows about 6
miles south-westward to Drimadown hay. A re-
markably large cairn stands at its foot, — now a good
deal diminished by the carrying away of its stones
for building purposes, — hut formerly measuring up-
wards of 200 feet in diameter.
BLACKWATER (The), a head-stream of the
Connon in Ross-shire. It rises in Strathvaich at
the western extremity of the parish of Contin, and
runs eastward to the Connon at Moy.
BLACKWATER (The), a stream of the parish of
Clyne, Ross-shire. It rises on Ben-Ormin, and runs
about 16 miles southward and south-eastward to a
confluence with the Brora, about half-a-mile above
Loch Brora. Its early course lies through deep
moors which give a dark tinge to its waters ; and
its lower course lies along a deep rooky channel, and
is strikingly romantic. Two cascades occur on it,
respectively near Balnakyle and at Kilcolmkill, both
very magnificent when the stream is in flood; and
the latter is much visited by tourists.
BLACKWATER (The), a tributary of the Ken,
in the parish of Dairy, Kirkcudbrightshire. It rises
on the confines of Dumfries-shire, and runs west-
ward about 6 miles quite across the centre of the
parish.
BLACKWATER (The), a small river in the north-
east of Perthshire. It is a continuation of the Shee,
and unites with the Ardle to form the Ericht.
BLACKWOOD HILL. See Keie.
BLADENOCH (The), a river in Galloway. It
rises in the hills which divide Galloway from Car-
rick, and, after a winding course of 24 miles south-
south-eastward, between Penningham and Wigton
parishes on the left, and Kirkcowan and Kirkinner
parishes on the right, empties itself into the bay of
Wigton. Several islands, once famous for the re-
sort of eagles, are formed in its bed. Good salmon
are found in this stream.
BLADENOCH, a village in the parish of Wigton,
Wigtonshire ; about a mile south-west of the town
of Wigton, within the parliamentary boundaries of
which it is included. There is a large distillery
here. Population, 215.
BLAINSLEE, a village in the north-east ex-
tremity of the parish of Melrose, Roxburghshire.
It stands on the right bank of the Leader, 3 miles
south-south-east of Lauder, on the road thence to
St. Boswells.
BLAIR, any level tract now or formerly abound-
ing in moss or heath. The name is sometimes used
as a prefix — as Blair- Athole, ' the moss-plain of
Athole,' — Blairgowrie, ' the moss-plain of Gowrie.'
BLAIR (Mount), a mountain of very large cir-
cumference, and of about 2,260 feet of altitude above
sea-level, on the mutual border of the parish ot
Alyth, Perthshire, and the parish of Glenisla, For-
farshire. It can easily be ascended on the east and
the west, hut is steep and rugged on the north and
the south. It has two summits, the one fiat and
elongated, and the other precipitous and overhang-
ing the southern verge ; and the latter commands a
gorgeous view from Schihallion to the German
ocean, and lrom Lochnagar to the Lammermoor hills.
See Alyth.
BLAIRADAM, a hamlet with a post-office in th<5
parish of Cleish, Kinross-shire. It stands on the
Kelty water, 4£ miles south-south-east of Kinross,
and has a station on the Kinross-shire railway.
Blairadam House, tire seat of Sir Charles Adam,
stands about a mile to the west. The Keiry Crags,
a romantic spot, described in one of the novels of Sir
Walter Scott as the howff of John Auchtermuchty,
the carrier, may he seen in Blairadam grounds.
BLAIR- ATflOLE, an extensive parish, contain-
ing a post-office hamlet of its own name, in the
north of Perthshire. It comprehends the ancient
parishes of Blair-Athole, Strowan, Lude, and Kil-
maveonaig. It is bounded, on the north, by Inver-
ness-shire and Aberdeenshire, and on other sides by
the parishes of Fortingall, Dull, Moulin, and Kirk-
michael. Its length north-eastward is upwards of
30 miles; and its breadth is about 18 miles. The
watershed of the great backbone of the central
Grampians forms most of the northern boundary ;
the river Tummel, together with its expansion,
Loch Tummel, forms most of the western half of the
southern boundary; the glen of the Garry wends
from the north-west corner south-eastward through
the interior to the most southerly extremity; and
the glens of the Erichkie, the Bruar, the Tilt, and
their several tributaries diversify the rest of the
interior down to Glengarry. Much information
respecting the parish will be found in the articles
Athole, Beuak, Garry, Tilt, and Tummel. Glen-
garry, for 6 miles downward from the church of
Strowan, is a beautiful, well cultivated valley; and
Strath-Tummel runs along the loch of that name,
which is about 2 miles long. Between these two
straths is a stretch of moorland about 4 miles in
breadth. The other straths or glens are screened by
mountains of naked rooks, and by extensive moor-
BLAIR-ATHOLE.
173
BLAIRBUEN.
clad hills. On the summits of tho higher moun-
tains, the weather has left little else than gravel
and stones covered with moss. Farther down we
find heath, uva ursi, and the ci'owheny plant; on
hoggy plaees, the cloudberry, and on drier ground,
tho whortleberry with coarse grass. Still lower
down, amidst heath and peat-hog, occur small valleys
with pretty good pasture, and here and there a green
spot, with huts to which the women, children, and
herds, retire with the cattle for the summer-season.
The vestiges of the plough are often seen here much
higher up than it goes at present ; probably because
wood then clothed the higher places, and much of
the bottom was a thicket. Every glen and valley is
intersected by its own river, or stream ; and in some
of them there occurs a loch. The most remarkable
mountain is Bendearg, ' the Eed mountain,' so
called from a vein of red stone, said to be a kind of
granite, which intersects it. It rises 3,550 feet
above the level of the sea; but is exceeded by
Bengloe, or Benygloe, the highest pinnacle of
which, Caim-Gower, or Carn-nan-Gabhar, i. e. ' the
Mountain of goats,' rises 3,725 feet above sea-level.
The other summits of this mountain are Cam Liath,
Cam Torkie, and Airgiodbheann. The New Statis-
tical Account, written in 1838, estimates that 105,000
acres of the parish are uncultivated land or hill-pas-
ture, 3,000 acres are land occasionally or constantly
in tillage, 2,000 acres are under plantations, and 50
acres are under natural wood. There are ten land-
owners; but by far the most extensive of them is
the Duke of Athole. The chief residences are Auch-
leeks House, Lude House, and the Duke of Athole's
seat, Blair Castle. This last, seated on an em-
inence rising from a plain watered by the Garry,
is of uncertain antiquity. The oldest part is called
Cummin's tower, being supposed to have been built
by John, commonly called De Strathbogie, who en-
joyed the title of Athole in right of his wife. It
became the principal seat of his successors. In 1644
the Marquis of Montrose possessed himself of it, and
was here joined by a large body of the Athole high-
landers, to whose bravery he was indebted for the
victory at Tibbermoor. In the troubles of 1653, this
place was taken by storm by Colonel Daniel, an
officer of Cromwell, who destroyed it by powder.
In 1689, it occasioned the celebrated battle of Killi-
crankie. An officer belonging to Viscount Dundee
had flung himself into it, and refusing to deliver it
to Lord Murray, son to the Marquis of Athole, was
by him threatened with a siege. His lordship, to
effect the reduction, assembled'a body of forces and
marched towards the place. Dundee knew the im-
portance of preserving this pass, and his communica-
tions with the Highland clans, in whom he had the
greatest confidence. With the usual expedition he
joined the garrison ; and, in a few days after, con-
eluded his life with the well-known "defeat of the
royal forces under Mackay, at Killiecrankie. The
last siege it experienced was in March, 1746, when
it was gallantly defended by Sir Andrew Agnew
against the rebels, who retised from before it a few
weeks preceding the battle of Culloden. The reader
will find some curious details of this siege in the
' Scots Magazine ' for 1808. As soon as peace was
established, a considerable part of the fortress was
reduced in height, and the inside most magnificently
furnished. " The views in front of the house," says
Pennant — who visited this place in 1772 — "are
planted with so much form, as to be far from pleas-
ing, but the picturesque walks among the rocks on
the other side cannot fail to attract the admiration
of every traveller of taste. The late noble owner,
with great judgment, but with no less difficulty, cut,
or rather blasted out, walks along the vast rocks
and precipices that bound the rivers Banovy and
Tilt. The waters are violent, and form in various
places cascades of great beauty. Pines and trees of
soveral species wave solemnly over the head and
darken the romantic scene. The place appeared to
great advantage ; for the Highlands, as well as other
beauties, have their good and their had days. Tho
glen, that in 1769 I thought deficient in water, now,
by reason of the rains, looked to great advantage,
and finished finely the rich scenery of rock and wood."
Other and extensive improvements have been made
since Pennant wrote; and now the domain of
Blair Castle is, in all respects, one of the most
princely and gorgeous in Scotland. It was honoured
by the residence of the royal family during several
weeks of the autumn of 1844; and the many magni-
ficent scenes within and around it, particularly the
beauties of Blair valley, the grandeurs of Glentilt,
and the sublimities of the Bruar and the Tummel
appear, on that occasion, to have excited the high-
est admiration of the illustrious visitors. On the
east bank of the Tilt, south- east of Blair Castle, is
Clagh-ghil-Aindreas, or ' the cemetery of Andrew's
disciple.' The Tilt has left only a small portion of
this burying-place. The coffins which are found in
it are usually composed of five flag-stones. On the
north side of Bengloe, is Lochainn, i. e. ' the river
that is slow like a loch.' It runs from Lochloch,
towards the Tilt. Upon Lochainn are the vestiges
of a palace in which the Earl of Athole entertained
James V., his mother, and the French ambassador,
in a most sumptuous manner; and which was burnt
to the ground, as soon as the King left it. To the
east of Blair Castle there is a deep pool, with a rock
in it, whence adulteresses were of old thrown,
sewed up in a sack, and drowned. The road and
the railway from Perth to Inverness traverse the
parish; and the railway has stations in it at Blair-
Athole hamlet, Strowan, and Dalnaspidal. Blair-
Athole hamlet stands at the foot of Glentilt, 10|
miles from Dalnacardoch and 21 from Dunkeld;
and has an excellent hotel, and a fair for cattle and
horses on the third Wednesday of May. Fairs for
cattle are held at the Bridge of Tilt on the 25th of
June and on the 20th of August, old style. Fairs
also are held at Trinafour for horses on the third
Tuesday of March, old style, and for cattle on the
Wednesday in October before Falkirk. Population
in 1831, 2,384; in 1861, 1,659. Houses, 379. As-
sessed property in 1865, £18,475 12s. 3d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dunkeld, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Duke of
Athole. Stipend, £143 19s. 4d., with three glebes
of the annual value of £95 10s. Unappropriated
teinds, £443 0s. 5d. Schoolmaster's salary now is
£50, with about £35 fees. There are two parish
churches, one at Blair, and one at Strowan, about
5 miles distant from each other. The church of
Blair was built in 1825, and seats 650; that of
Strowan, in 1828, and seats 460. A portion of the
eastern extremity of the parish is comprised in the
new parish of Tennandry, constituted by the law
authorities in 1851, and contains the church of Ten-
nandry. There is an Episcopalian church at Kil-
maveonaig, which was built in 1791, and contains
200 sittings. There is a Free church for Blair-
Athole and Strowan ; and the yearly sum raised in
connexion with it in 1865 was £343 4s. 9Jd. There
is also a Baptist church, with an attendance of about
100. There are six non-parochial schools.
BLAIEBURN, a village in the parish of Culross,
Perthshire. Population in 1851, 85. The estate
and mansion of Blair-Castle, the former comprising
560 acres, are situated in the vicinity, on the banks
of the Forth.
JBLAIKDAFF.
174
BLAIEGOWEIE.
BLAIE-CASTLE. See Blair Athole and Blair -
BURN.
BLAIEDAFF, a locality in the strath side of the
parish of Chapel of Garioch, about 4^ miles from the
church of that parish, Aberdeenshire. Here is a
chapel of ease, on a beautiful site, with attached
burying-ground, all completely surrounded with
wood. Here also is a Free church, with an atten-
dance of 300, the yearly sum raised in connexion
with which in 1865 was £75 12s. 4^d.
BLAIR-DRTJMMOND, an estate in the parish of
Kincardine, in the Menteith district of Perthshire.
The park contains some singularly fine trees. The
manson-house is a neat large modem structure;
and near it is an elegant range of cottages inhabited
by families who are employed, from father to son,
on the estate. Blair-Drummond moss, which com-
prised about 1,500 acres adjacent to the Forth, was
the subject of one of the most remarkable land-im-
provements of modem times. See Kincardine. A
good account of the improvement may be seen in
the Appendix to the Old Statistical Account, in the
3d volume of the Edinburgh Philosophical Transac-
tions, in the Farmer's Magazine for August, 1817,
or in the 12th volume of the Encyclopedia Britan-
nica. The last of the moss was not cleared away
till 1839. Two wooden wheels of curious and an-
cient construction were found in this moss, at the
depth of 9 feet, a few years ago. They were wholly
of wood, not even a nail or any thing of iron being
to be found about them. They consisted of three
planks joined together by two oval pieces of oak
passing through the centre like bolts ; and measured
3 feet in diameter, by 2J inches thick. The centre,
or nave, was 6 inches thick, apparently turned out
of one solid piece, and bushed with the red wood of
oak. The bushing was composed of small staves
set in, like cooper-work, as exemplified in the form
of the Scottish bicker. Both wheels were discovered
in a horizontal position, and a layer of fir-trees and
brush-wood was imbedded in the moss about a foot
above them; which seems to prove that in what-
ever manner the wheels got there, they were at least
of as ancient a date as the moss itself.
BLA1RESSAN. See Killearn.
BLAIRFELDY. See Inveraven.
BLAIRGOWRIE, a parish, containing a post-
town of the same name, in the north-east of Perth-
shire. It is of considerable extent, but irregular
figure, being about 11 miles long from south to
north, and, in some places, not less than 8 miles
broad ; but intersected by the parishes of Kinloch,
Bendoehy, and Rattray. The connected part of it
is only about 9 miles long, and from 1 to 2 broad.
The parish is divided into two districts by a branch
of the Grampian mountains, forming a part of the
northern boundary of the beautiful valley of Strath-
more. The southern district, which lies in this
strath, is about 4 miles long, and from 1 to 2 broad.
The northern district — which includes the detached
parts of the parish — is high ground, and very un-
even in the surface. The hills, till about 1845, were
mostly covered with heath, but now are cultivated
to about 600 feet above sea-level. The Isla, which
skirts the southern part of the parish, is the most
considerable river ; and it used frequently to flood
and damage the neighbouring low lands, but is
now confined to its channel by means of stone
embankments. The next river in size is the
Ericht, which, from its rapidity, has acquired the
appellation of " the Ireful Ericht." It is formed by
the junction of the Ardle and the Black- Water; and
runs along the east side of the parish for about 9
miles. Its channel hi general is rocky and uneven,
ind it ofton varies in its depth and breadth. In
some places the banks are so low that it frequently
overflows them; in other parts they rise to a great
height, and are often covered with wood. About 2
miles north of the town of Blairgowrie, they rise
at least 200 feet above the bed of the river ; and on
the west side are formed, for about 700 feet in length,
and 220 feet in height, of perpendicular rock as
smooth as if formed by the tool of the workman.
This place is called Craiglioch. Further down,
about half-a-mile from the town, is the Keith, a
natural cascade so formed as formerly, with aid
from a weir, to stop the ascent of salmon, and to
occasion large takes of them in pools. The weir
there has been removed ; but two other weirs, erected
by mill-owners, are between the Keith and Blair-
gowrie bridge ; and these, with other causes, have
entirely spoiled fishing for a few miles above and
below the town. The manner of the quondam fish-
ing at the Keith is described thus in the Old Statis-
tical Account. "The fishers, during the day, dig con-
siderable quantities of clay, and wheel it to the river-
side immediately above the fall. About sun-set the
clay is converted into mortar, and hurled into the
water. The fishers then ply their nets at different
stations below, while the water continues muddy.
This is repeated two or three times in the space of a
few hours. It is a kind of pot-net, fastened to a
long pole, that is used here. When the water is
very small — which is often the case in summer —
the fish are caught in great numbers, in the different
pools, with a common net." No fewer than six
lakes occur in different parts of the parish ; and sev-
eral others have been drained, and now supply the
neighbourhood with peats and marl. In the six
which still exist, pike and perch are caught. They
are also frequented by wild fowls of different kinds.
There is one chalybeate spring in the- Cloves of
Mawes, which was formerly much resorted to by
persons in its neighbourhood, for scorbutic disorders.
In 1774, the moor of Blair-Gowrie — then a common
of 500 acres — was divided, and most of it, in 1775,
was planted with Scotch firs ; the rest of it has been
gradually planted since that time, partly with larch,
and partly with Scotch firs. The New Statistical
Account, written in 1843, estimates that 4,987 acres
of the parish are either regularly or occasionally in
tillage, 3,800 are constantly waste or in pasture,
302 might be profitably brought into cultivation,
and 1,407 are under wood, natural or planted. There
are nine principal landowners. The only stones
quarried, or at all suitable for building, are a very
dark-coloured whinstone and a coarse red sandstone.
The only manufactures are the spinning and weav-
ing of flax; and the former is carried on in ten
mills. The roads from Blairgowrie town to Coupar-
Angus, from Kirriemuir to Dunkeld, and from Perth
to Braemar traverse the parish. A principal man-
sion is Newton-House, once the seat of the proprie-
tors of the barony of Blairgowrie, an old building,
something in the style of a castle. This house was
rebuilt on the foundation of the old house said to
have been burnt down-by Oliver Cromwell ; and it
has been repaired and as much as possible modern-
ized, and is let for summer lodgings. It stands
about the middle of the south slope of the range of
high ground which bounds Strathmore on the north,
and has a most commanding view, not only of
Strathmore, but also of parts of different counties.
About half-a-mile further west, stands the mansion-
house of the old family of the Blairs of Ardhlair.
See Ardblaik. Population of the parish in 1831,
2,644; in 1861, 4,657. Houses, 701. Assessed
property in 1865, £19,531 8s. Id.
This parish is in the presbytery of Meigle, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patrons, M'Pherson
BLAIRGOWRIE.
175
BLANE.
of Blairgowrie and Oliphant of Cask. Stipend, £222
18s.; glebe, £35. Schoolmaster's salary, about £50
with fees. The parochial church stands on the sum-
mit of the li ill of Blair immediately above the town,
and was built in 1824, and contains 850 sittings.
There is a chapel of ease, originally a dissenting
chapel, in Brown-street, but is at present unoccupied.
There are two Free churches in the town, North and
South, and one at Cray ; yearly sum raised in 1865,
in connexion with the" first, £577 0s. 7d.,— with the
second, £576 12s. 9d.,— with the third, £97 14s. 7d.
An Independent chapel was built in 1824, and con-
tains 300 sittings. An Episcopalian chapel, called
St. Catherine's church, was built in 1843, and con-
tains about 200 sittings. There is also a small
Roman Catholic chapel. There are three non-paro-
chial schools, — the Free church one very large._
The Town op Blaikgowtue stands on the right
bank of the Erieht and north side of Strathmore, 4J
miles north-west by north of Coupar- Angus and 12
miles east-north-east of Dunkeld. Its site is a
pleasant rising-ground which forms the first swell
m the acclivity of the hill of Blair. The church-
yard in front of the parish church on the top of the
hill commands a brilliant view of Strathmore from
its western extremity to the Hunter hill of Glam-
mis. A deep and richly wooded ravine breaks
sheer down behind the church to the bed of the
river. The beauteous and romantic scenery of the
Erieht, and a charming expanse of cultivated low-
land, together with the neighbouring skirts of the
Sidlaws and the Grampians, give a happy aspect to
all the town's environs. The large village of Rat-
tray stands near the town on the opposite bank of
the river. Craighall-Rattray, one of the most pic-
turesquely situated mansions in Scotland, surmount-
ing a very lofty nmral rock on the banks of the
Erieht, is in the near vicinity. A little after the
beginning of the present century, Blairgowrie was
an insignificant village of mean thatched houses ;
but now it has a decided town appearance, with good
streets, many good houses, and a considerable stir
of business. A fine new street, called Newton-
street, with neat villas and garden-plots, has been
formed since 1854. A town-hall, capable of accom-
modating 600 persons, was recently erected by sub-
scription ; and a temporary lock-up adjoins it. There
are three large hotels ; offices of the Bank of Scot-
land, the Commercial Bank, and the Union Bank ;
three circulating libraries, a mechanics' institute, a
savings' bank, a total abstinence society, some sport-
ing clubs, and several charitable and benevolent in-
stitutions ; and a weekly newspaper is published.
The several places of worship are substantial ; and
one of the smallest of them, the Episcopalian, is a
handsome edifice in the early English style. Pro-
perty rose in value from 1854 till 1865 about 13 per
cent. Ten spinning-mills are on the river, and
employ nearly 2,000 hands. Hand-loom weaving
was formerly prominent, but is yearly decreasing.
Markets for cattle and grain are held on every alter-
nate Tuesday, during the greater part of the year;
and fairs, chiefly for cattle, but some of them also
for horses and general business, are held on the 3d
Wednesday of March, on the Tuesday of May pre-
ceding the old term day, on the 23d of July, or on
the Tuesday after according as that day is or is not
a Tuesday, on the Wednesday in October before
Falkirk, and on the 23d of November or the Tuesday
after according to circumstances. A branch rail-
way from the Northeastern at Coupar-Angus was
opened in 1855, aud yielded, in 1865, about £10,250
a-year. The water-supply once was good, but in
1865 was beginning to be bad. The town was
made a burgh of barony in favour of the proprietor of
the estate of Blairgowrie by Clia tics I. in 1 634 ; and it
was made a free burgh of barony, with power to elect a
bailie and four councillors for the management of its
affairs, by charter from its feudal superior in 1809.
Its matters of police ai'e regulated by the provisions
of the general police act. The only historical events
which have happened in it, are transits of the Mar
quis of Montrose in his hostile descents from tho
Highlands, and devastations of buildings and pro-
perty by great floods of the Erieht. One of these
devastations occurred so late as the autumn of 1847,
throwing down two arches at the bridge of the
town, and doing great damage to all the mills.
Population in 1841, 2,242; in 1861,3,344. Houses,
485. Estimated population in 1865, 5,420.
BLAIRINGONE, a village in the parish of Fossa-
way, on the south-east border of Perthshire. Tho
name signifies ' the field of spears.' The village
stands 7 miles west of Kinross, and 10 miles north-
west of Dunfermline. It is a burgh of barony, under
the, superiority of the Duke of Athole. A market
is holden here in the month of June. It probably
derives its name from weapon-shawings having been
held here ; for the chieftain of the Murrays had a
famDy-seat at this place ; and the rocky pinnacle,
now called Gibson's craig, is said to be the real
Gartwhinzian, where the whole clan of the Murrays
assembled to attend their chief. An extension
church, now a q. s. parochial, was built a little east
of the village in 1838, and contains between 200 and
300 sittings. Population in 1851 of Old Blairin-
gone, 79; of New Blairingone, 210. See Fossa way.
BLAIRLOGIE, a village with a post-office in the
portion of the parish of Logie belonging to Perth-
shire. It stands at the mouth of Glendevon and at
the foot of the Ochils, 3 miles from Stirling, and 4
miles from Alloa. It is a clean pleasant place, re-
markable for salubrity of climate and excellence of
goat's milk ; and is a favourite summer resort of in-
valids. Here are an United Presbyterian church
and a small parochial library. Teins of copper and
barytes exist in the neighbourhood. The estate of
Blairlogie and Loss comprises 1,658 imperial acres,
330 of which are arable ; and it includes the pictur-
esque lofty hill of Demyat, whose summit commands
one of the most superb extensive views in Scotland.
Population of the village, 124.
BLAIRMORE, a hamlet in the parish of Ken-
more, Perthshire.
BLAIRQUHAN. See Kike-michael.
BLAIRS, an estate in the parish of Maryculter,
Kincardineshire. It is situated on the south side of
the valley of the Dee, about 6 miles south-west of
Aberdeen. It formerly belonged to Mr. Menzies of
Pitfoddels, but was gifted by him to the Church of
Rome. A large Roman Catholic seminaiy is situat-
ed on it, with accommodation for from 25 to 35
pupils, most of whom are trained to be Roman Cath
olic priests. Part of the huildings is a Roman
Catholic chapel, for the use of all the surrounding
district.
_ BLANE (The), a small river of the western divi-
sion of Stirlingshire. It flows chiefly within the
parish of Strathblane, and gives name to it ; but it
afterwards traverses a large wing of Killeam. It
has its source in the Earl's seat, one of the Lennox
hills ; and, after running 3 or 4 miles to the south-
west, is precipitated over several high falls, into a
romantic hollow, which is filled with a vast assem-
blage of gigantic stones piled upon each other, and
adorned on the sides with many alternate strata of
various hues. " The stream "has already formed
two smaller cascades in sight before it precipitates
itself over a shelf 30 feet high, and descends among
the rocky masses which it has loosened from the
BLANE'S (ST.) CHAPEL.
176
BLANTYRE.
parent-hill. The lowest of the three falls is known
as ' the Spout of Ballaggan.' The earls of the old
race of Levenax had a castle near and in sight of
this romantic scene. Ballaggan, the seat of Alex-
ander Graham, Esq. of Ballaggan, commands a view
of this beautiful and sublime cataract from the win-
dows, and is within hearing of its music even when
it has not the means of striking a loud note. In
flood-time the Spout is stupendous, increasing its
apparent height by covering the huge masses below
so as to vie with the sublimity if not the beauty of
Corra-Linn. In drier periods, the visitant can as-
cend, with more seeming than real hazard, amongst
the scattered fragments of rock, till he have reached
the bottom of the lowest fall." After a course of 8
miles farther towards the north-west, the Blane
joins the Endrick at a point about 6 miles above
that rivers influx to Loch-Lomond. See Steatu-
blaxe and Killeaen.
BLANE'S (ST.) CHAPEL, an ancient ecclesias-
tical rain in the parish of Kin garth, in the island of
Bute. It stands amid a scene of great beauty about
2$ miles from the southern extremity of the island.
It is supposed to have been built by a priest who
flourished about the close of the tenth century, was
educated at Borne, and came to Scotland with a
commission to rule the diocese of Dunblane. A
considerable portion of the walls are still standing.
The site is an artificial esplanade, a good deal higher
than the circumjacent ground, encompassed with a
rude wall of 500 feet in circumference, and all sub-
Btmcted, at the depth of two feet from the surface,
with arches and mason-work. Another space of
similar appearance, but on a lower level, and only
124 feet in circumference, is in the vicinity, and
has the traditional reputation of having been a nun-
nery. Both spaces were used as cemeteries, — the
former only for males, and the latter only for females ;
and are associated, in old legend, with some circum-
stances of superstition and thaumaturgy.
Not far from St. Blane's Chapel is still shown the
Devil's cauldron, which — though vulgar tales for-
merly current of the evil spirit's purgatorial par-
boiling of the bodies and souls of departed sinners
are too gross for notice — is known to have been in
Catholic times, a place of real penance for living
ones. "This cauldron," says Mr. Blain, "30 feet
in diameter, is formed by a wall of diy stone, 7 feet
6 inches high, and 10 feet in thickness, with an
entrance from the east. It was a place of penance,
as its name imports, such as Sir James Ware de-
scribes in his antiquities of Ireland. Poor culprits
were sometimes obliged to traverse the top of the
wall on their bare knees, a certain number of times,
according to their demerit ; whilst their path was
covered over with sharp stones. At other times, a
number of these unhappy people were made to sit,
days and nights together, on the floor, within the
enclosure, without- food, and necessitated to prevent
each other from enjoying the comforts of sleep, for
it was inculcated on them by their ghostly fathers,
as an article of belief, that, if they suffered any of
the company to slumber, before the time appointed
for expiating their guilt was at an end, the whole
virtue of their penance would be lost."
BLANTYRE, a parish containing two villages
and a post-office of its own name, and also five other
villages, in the north-west of Lanarkshire. It is
hounded by the parishes of Kilbride, Cambuslang,
Bothwell, Hamilton, and Glassford. Its greatest
length, north-eastward, is 6J miles; its mean breadth
is about 1 mile ; and its area is 4,027 imperial acres.
The Clyde, which is here a noble and very beautiful
river, traces all the boundary with Bothwell ; and
the Rotten Calder traces the boundary with Kilbride
and Cambuslang. The surface of the parish is low,
and nearly all level, or at least without any promi-
nent natural feature. The soil is various; but
though part is clay, loam, and sand, the whole is
veiy fertile, except toward the south-western ex-
tremity where it becomes a deep peat-moss. Great
agricultural improvements have been made by
draining and otherwise. The farm-houses are of a
superior kind. The rent of land averages about £J
per acre, but is so high in some parts as £4. Clay-
band ironstone is worked at Auchintibber ; lime-
stone, at Auchintibber and Newfield; an excellent
arenaceous building-stone, on Lord Blantyre's pro-
perty ; and Roman cement, at Calderside. There is
a mineral spring at Park, strongly impregnated
with sulphur dissolved by means of hydrogen gas,
which used to be much resorted to, about the middle
of last century, by families from Glasgow, and is
still famed in scrofulous and scorbutic cases. The
ruins of the priory of Blantyre, which was founded
some time prior to the year 1296, are finely situated,
in a most retired situation, on the top of a rock
which rises perpendicularly from the Clyde, exactly
opposite the noble rains of Bothwell castle, and
commands a very romantic view. Walter Stuart,
first commendator of this priory, and Lord-privy-
seal in 1595, was made a peer by the title of Lord
Blantyre, July 10th, 1606. The revenues of the
priory were, in 1561, money £131 6s. 7Jd. Hamil-
ton of Wishaw says in his ' Descriptions ' compiled
about the beginning of last century, " The Lord
Blantyre heth ane fruitful orchard at the old priorie,
where he is some tymes in use to dwell." There
are yet a few relics of this orchard here ; but from
the state of the buildings it could scarcely have
been supposed that they were in a habitable state
at any period within the 18th century. See article
Bothwell. Urns have been dug up at different
times in several parts of the parish. A curious
conical hillock, called the Camp Know, measuring
200 yards in circumference, and anciently sur-
rounded by a ditch, is at Calderside. Two railway
stations are in the parish ; the one Blantyre, on the
Glasgow and Hamilton railway; the other High
Blantyre, on the Hamilton and Strathaven. The
village of Blantyre, or kirktowu of Blantyre, stands
amid a rich level tract, sheltered by many fine tall
trees, about 1J mile from the Clyde, 3 miles from
Hamilton, 4 from East Kilbride, and 8J from Glas-
gow. Population in 1841, 261. The village of
Blantyre-Works stands on a rising-ground adjacent
to the Clyde, near Blantyre station, and opposite
Bothwell. Here are extensive factories for cotton-
spinning, steam-loom weaving, and cotton-yarn
dyeing. The number of hands employed in them
in 1838 was 839; in 1865, about 1,800. The first of
them was erected in 1785 by Messrs. David Dale
and James Monteith. The village was built entirely
for the accommodation of the work-people in the
factories; and is notable for cleanliness, cheerful-
ness, and general good order. Population in 1861,
1,317. The other villages are Auchinraith, Auch-
intibber, Barnhill, Hunthill, and Stonefield ; but all
these are small. Population of the parish in 1831,
3,000; in 1861, 3,092. Houses, 381. Assessed
property in 1865, £11,245.
This parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Lord Blantyre.
Stipend, £196 10s.; glebe, £16. Schoolmaster's
salary, £45 with £19 fees. The parochial church
was built in 1863, is a very handsome edifice, and
contains 800 sittings. There is a Free church : yearly
sum raised in 1865, £229 15s. 5Jd. There are an
excellent school in Blantyre-Works, and an adven-
ture school in High Blantyre. There is also a par-
BLEBO CRAIGS.
177
BOH A KM.
ochial library, which was opened in 18G4. The bar-
ony of Blantyre was all, long ago, feued out in small
pieces, which still hold of Lord Blantyre. His
Lordship's residences arc Erskine House, Cardonald
and Bishopton House in Renfrewshire, Lennoxlove
in Haddingtonshire, and Wedderlie in Berwickshire.
BLAR-NAN-CEANN. See Contin.
BLAVEN (Mount). See Skte.
BLEARY'S CROSS. See Renfrew.
BLEATON. See Rattray.
BLEBO CRAIGS, a village in the parish of
Kemback, about 5A miles west of St. Andrews,
Fifeshire. Population in 1851, 234. At Blebo mills
are a spinning-factory, a flax scutching mill, a meal
mill, and a barley mill; and in the vicinity are
some mineral veins which at one time excited high
hope and disappointed it. See Kemback.
BLESSING (Lake). See Rogart.
BLOMEL SOUND. See Yell.
BLOODHOPE (The). See Esk (The White).
BLOODY BAY. See Iona.
BLOODY FOLD. See Bannockbdrn.
BLUE ROW, a hamlet in the parish of East
Kilpatrick, Dumbartonshire. Population in 1851,
53.
BLYTHSWOOD. See Renfrew and Glasgow.
BOARHILLS, a village near the eastern extrem-
ity of the parish of St. Andrews, Fifeshire. Popu-
lation in 1851, 155. See Andrew's (St.)
BOARLAN (Loch). See Altan-nan-Cealgach.
BOAT-GREEN, the harbour of Gatehouse-of-
Fleet, in Kirkcudbrightshire.
BOAT-OF-BOG. See Spbtmodth.
BOAT-OF-GARTEN, a station on the Highland
railwav, 16J miles north-north-east of Kingussie.
BOAT-OF-INCH, a station on the Highland rail-
way, 5J miles north-east of Kingussie.
BODDAM, a fishing-village in the parish of
Peterhead, Aberdeenshire. It stands on a project-
ing point of land, opposite the lighthouse of Buchan-
ness, a little north of Stirling hill, and about 3 miles
south of the town of Peterhead. It has two har-
bours, separated from each other by a strong beach,
and both screened from the sea by the lighthouse
island, — the south one affording accommodation
only for boats, but the north one capable also of re-
ceiving tolerably large ships. The principal fish-
ings are for herring, cod, and haddock. The num-
ber of herring-boats is between 20 and 30. The
dried fish of Boddam are highly esteemed in the
Aberdeen market, partly on account of the great
care bestowed on them, and partly because of the
very clean saudless rocks on which they are dried.
Population, 550.
BODOTRIA. The ancient name of the frith of
Forth.
BOGANY. See Rothesay.
BOGHALL. See Biggar.
BOGHEAD, a village in the parish of Lesmaha-
gow, Lanarkshire. Population, 198,
BOGHEAD. See Bathgate.
BOGHOLE. See Auldearn.
BOGIE (The), a beautiful little river of the
north-west of Aberdeenshire. It is formed by the
union of the burns of Craig and Corchinan, near the
manse of Auchindoir. These burns traverse a con-
siderable extent of bog, and derive from it antiseptic
properties ; and the former runs altogether about 5
miles, and makes some romantic cascades in what
is called the Den of Craig. The Bogie pursues a
northerly course along a fine valley to which it gives
the name of Strathbogie ; and, after supplying the
bleachfields of Huntly with abundance of soft pure
water, it falls into the Deveron about a quarter of a
mile below that town. Its entire length of run,
I.
measured in a straight line from the source of Craig-
burn, is about 1-1 miles.
BOGM1LE. See Clunie.
BOG-OF-GIGHT, or Bogen-Gioht, the ancient
designation of the seat of the Dukes of Gordon, in
the parish of Bellie, now called Gordon Castle:
which see. Shaw and others derive the name from
Bog-na-Oaoith, that is, ' the Windy bog.' Richard
Franck, who made a journey through Scotland in
1658, describes "Bogageith, the marquess of Huntly'a
palace all built with stone facing the ocean; whose
fair front — set prejudice aside — worthily deserves
an Englishman's applause for her lofty and majestic
rivets and turrets that storm the air, and seemingly
make dints in the very clouds ! " The ferry, or more
strictly speaking ferry-boat, across the Spey near
this mansion, for ages known as " the Boat of Bog,"
has been supplanted by a magnificent stone bridge
of four arches, said to have cost £13,000.
BOGRIE HILL. See Dunscore.
BOGROY, a post-office station subordinate to
Inverness.
BOGSIDE, a station on the Stirling and Dun-
fermline railway, near the town of Culross, on the
south-east verge of Perthshire. It is the interme-
diate station between Kincardine on the west and
East-Grange on the east.
BOGTON LOCH, an expansion of the river
Doon, about two miles below its source in the parish
of Dalmellington, Ayrshire. It has low banks, and
is much frequented by aquatic birds.
BO' HALL, See Garvald and Bara.
BOHALLY, a post-office station subordinate to
Pitlochrie, Perthshire.
BOHARM, a pariah partly in Morayshire, and
partly in Banffshire, It comprises the ancient
parishes of Bucharin and Ardintullie, and also part
of the ancient parish of Dundurcus. It is bounded
by Bellie, Keith, Botriphnie, Mortlach, Aberlour,
and Rothes. Its post-town is Keith. Its outline
is irregular; but its average length north-eastward
is 9 miles, and its average breadth is from 2 to 3.
The Spey flows along the western boundary, and
the Fiddich flows along the southern. Benagen
rises right from the Spey to about 1,500 feet above
sea-level, is the only important hill in the parish,
and was lately found to contain a rich seam of iron-
stone. The railway from Keith to Elgin runs about
4 miles through the centre of the parish, traversing
for 2 miles a highly picturesque ravine ; and the
Strathspey railway runs for some distance in it, along
the course of the Fiddich. The total yearly value
of raw produce was estimated in 1842 at £14,256.
Assessed property in 1865, £6,974. There are
four landowners; and two of these are resident
in the fine mansions of Amdilly and Auchlunkart.
There are three meal-mills, and four saw-mills.
The ruin of Bucharin or Boharm Castle, now called
Gauldwell, is the principal antiquity. This was built
fronting the east, on the north side of the valley
towards the western end of the parish, where a
promontory is pushed forward into the deep defile
formed by the course of the Aldernie. It appears to
have been a simple structure of 1 1 9 by 24 feet within ,
divided by an internal wall so as to form two halls
on the ground-floor, one 65 and the other 54 feet in
length. The windows were only 20 inches wide,
though the walls were 8 feet thick, built up in
frames of timber which were employed for keeping
in the fluid mortar, which was poured into the dry
stone-wall when raised to a certain height. The
front and corners were finished with free-stone from
the quarries of Duffus. About a century ago several
silver spoons were found among the rubbish, having
the handle round and hollow like a pipe, and th»
M
BOHESPICK.
178
BOLTON.
conca-se pai-t, or mouth, perfectly circular. This
bulky fabric, in 1200, was denominated Castellum
de Bucharin. It then belonged to the Freskyns of
Duffus, by whom it was no doubt built. By assum-
ing the title De Moravia, from their connexion with
that country, they became the author of that sur-
name. They were once possessed of many fair do-
mains in the north : namely, Duffus, Duldavie, Dal-
vey, Inverallen, and Kirkdales, in Moray; Arndilly,
Aikenwall, Boharm, Botriphnie then Botruthin,
Kinermonie then Cere Kainemionth, in Banffshire ;
and Brachlie, Ci'oy, Ewan, Lunyn, and Petty, in
Nairn or Inverness, as appears by the charter of
Moray from 1100 to 1286. At this day, they are
represented by the Duke of Athole, Sutherland of
Duffus, and Murray of Abercaimy. It also appears
by the charter of Moray, that, between 1203 and
1222, William, the son of William Freskyn, ob-
tained the consent of Brucius, bishop of Moray, for
building a domestic chapel for the more commodious
performance of the offices of devotion. It stood on
its own consecrated burying-ground — forsaken only
in the course of the last century — about 50 yards
from the north end of the castle ; and, though only
24 by 12 feet within, must have been the parent of
the parish-church, which, with several others, was
erected at the private expense of James VI. for civi-
lizing the north of Scotland, in the year 1618, ai
which period Ardhitullie or Arndilly may be sup-
posed to have been annexed. On the annexation of
a part of the parish of Dundurcus a new parish-
church was erected about 2 miles to the eastward.
James Ferguson, the self-taught astronomer, re-
ceived the rudiments of his education here, under
the patronage of Grant of Arndilly. Population in
1831, 1,385; in 1861, 1,412. Houses, 276.
This parish is in the presbytery of Aberlour and
synod of Moray. Patrons, the Crown and the Earl
of Fife. Stipend, £244 16s. 7d.; glebe, 30 acres.
There are two parochial schools ; the one with £40
of salary, the other with £25. The parish church
was built in 1793, and contains about 700 sittings.
There is a Free church ; and the yearly sum raised
in connexion with it in 1865 was £93 4s. ll^d.
There are three female schools, with dwelling-houses
for the teachers, and salaries or grants.
BOHESPICK, a portion of the valley of the Tum-
mel in the parish of Blair-Athole, Perthshire.
BOINDIE. See Boyndie.
BOISDALE (Loch), a deep inlet of the Minch,
on the eastern side of South Uist, and to the south
of Loch Eynort. It is thickly strewn with islets,
and has a small half-ruined tower at its entrance.
It is one of the best and largest harbours in the
kingdom, and affords shelter to vessels in the Baltic
trade under stress of weather.
BOLD BURN, a rivulet of the eastern wing of
the parish of Traquair, Peebles-shire, flowing from
the Minchmoor to the Tweed.
BOLE, a hamlet in the parish of Rescobie, For-
farshire.
BOLESKINE and ABEETABF, an united par-
ish, containing the small post-town of Fort- Augus-
tus and the village of Balfrishel, in Inverness-shire.
It lies on both sides of Loch Ness, and is hounded
by Urquhart, Dorres, Daviot, Laggan, and Kilma-
nivaig. Its length north-eastward is about 21
miles; and its average breadth is about 10 miles.
Abertarf lies principally on the north-west side of
Loch Ness, and formerly comprised also the district
of Glenmorriston. The inhabited parts of it are se-
parated from the inhabited parts of Boleskine by a
lofty hill of seven miles in length. Boleskine com-
prises part of Stratherrick, part of the upland coun-
try of Corryarrick, and part of the Monadleadh
mountains. There are als.0 one or two small de.
tached .tracts. The district at the western extre-
mity of Loch Ness is level ; the eastern is mountain-
ous. The soil is as varied as the surface. There
are a great many sheep fed' in the hilly part of the
country. Much natural wood still remains; and,
from the large trunks of oak-trees found in all the
mosses, we may conclude the whole country has at
one period been an extensive oakrforest. The par-
ish abounds with lakes, which contain a variety of
fish. Several streams also intersect it, of which the
principal are the Oich, the Tarff, and the Foyers, —
the last famous for its falls. Granite of beautiful
appearance is found in the hills; and inexhaustible
quarries of limestone are wrought in several parts.
The principal landowners are the Frasers of Aber-
tarf, Lovat, and Foyers. The total yearly value of
raw produce was estimated in 1835 at £4,313. As-
sessed property in 1860, £8,232. A number of the
principal objects and scenes of interest in the parish
will be found noticed in other articles, such as Au-
gustus (Fokt), Caledonian Canal, Ness (Loch),
Oich (The), Foyers (The), Stratherrick, Cokky-
arrick, and Monadleadh Mountains. Population
in 1831, 1,829 ; in 1861, 1,743. Houses, 355.
This parish is in the presbytery of Abertarf, and
synod of Glenelg. Patron, Professor Hercules
Scott. Stipend, £238 2s. 2d. Schoolmaster's salary,
£40 with £20 fees. The parish church was built in
1717, and contains 428 sittings. There is a mission-
ary at Fort Augustus, who ministers to about 150
attendants. There is a Free church in Fort Augus-
tus, associated with another in Glenmorriston; and
the proceeds of it in 1865 amounted to £77 15s. 5d.
There is also a Roman Catholic chapel, with an at-
tendance of 200. There are two private schools.
BOLFEACKS. See Fortingal.
BOLL-FOR-NOUGHT. See Ninians (St.).
BOLTON, a parish in Haddingtonshire, bounded
by the parishes of Haddington, Gifford, Humbie, and
Salton. Its post-town is Haddington, 2 J miles
north of the church. The length of the parish
northward is nearly 6 miles ; and the average
breadth is not more than about 1J mile. Gifford
or Coalstone Water, a stream of much gentle beauty,
flows along the north-eastern and northern bound-
ary; and Binn's Water, from about the point of its
debouch from the Lammermoors, flows along the
southern boundary. The surface of the parish is
agreeably diversified with undulations, but does not
contain any upland or hill. About 300 acres are
under wood, between 50 and 60 are in permanent
pasture, and all the rest acknowledge the domin-
ion of the plough. There are eight or more land-
owners ; but the only resident one is the proprietor
of the charming mansion of Eaglescarnie, which was
for several centuries the seat of a branch of the
Haliburtons, Lords of Dirleton. The valued rent is
£2,437 12s. 7d. Scots. The real rent in 1792 was
£1,400; and is now above double that sum. The
total yearly value of raw produce was estimated in
1838 at £10,125. Assessed property in 1865, £3,746
Is. Id. Within the hamlet of Bolton there were, till
recently, some vestiges of a house, with a park on
the west side of it still called the orchard, which is
said to have belonged to John Hepburn, a friend of
Bothwell's, who fled with him from Dunbar, when
Bothwell escaped from the battle of Falside.
Chalmers says: — "The manor of Bolton was early
enjoyed by the St. Hilaries, who were succeeded by
William de Vetereponte, who married Emma de St.
Hilary. Notwithstanding the terrible disasters of
the succession war, in which, as we learn from Ey-
mer and Prynne, this family was involved, yet was
Bolton, with lands in other districts, enjoyed bv it
BONA.
170
BONCIIESTEli.
under Robert I. and David II. In the reign of
James II. it belonged to George, Lord llaliburton
of Dirleton. It was at length acquired by Patrick
Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell, after a long suit in par-
liament with Marion, the lady of Bolton. In 1526
and 1543, Bolton was in possession of a cadet of his
family, by the name of Hepburn of Bolton. In
January 1568, John Hepburn of Bolton was exe-
cuted, as the associato of the Earl of Bothwell, his
chief, in the murder of Darnley. The manor of
Boltou, thus forfeited, was given to William Mait-
land, the well-known secretary Lethington. It was
confirmed to the Earl of Lauderdale in 1621.
Richard, Earl of Lauderdale, who died about the
year 1693, sold the barony of Bolton, and even the
ancient inheritance of Lethington, to Sir Thomas
Livingstone, who was created Viscount Teviot, in
1696 ; and Sir Thomas transferred the whole to
Walter, Master of Blantyre, afterwards Lord Blan-
tyre, in 1702, in whose family the property re-
mains." Population in 1831, 332 ; in 1861, 332.
Houses, 71.
This parish is in the presbytery of Haddington,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Lord
Blantyre. Stipend, £153 15s. 5d. ; glebe, £18.
Schoolmaster's salary, £35 with £40 fees. The
parish elvareh was built in 1809, and contains nearly
300 sittings. It is a neat modern Gothic structure,
with a tower. There is a Free church for Bolton
and Salton ; and the yearly sum raised in connex-
ion with it in 1865 was £105 18s. 3Jd. There is a
small parochial library.
BONA, an ancient parish of Inverness-shire, now
united to the parish of Inverness. The rains of its
church still exist on the banks of Lock-Doehfour.
Service is regularly maintained in the schoolroom
here by the Established ministers of Inverness. It
is 6 miles south-south-west of Inverness, at the
northern extremity of Loch-Ness, over which there
is a ferry here. The population of the district, in
1831, was 1,363. On the east side of the Ness,
about 600 yards below its efflux from Loch-Ness,
and between it and Loch-Dochfour, there are the
remains of a Roman station, which, it is supposed,
was the site of the Banatia Urbs of Richard of Ciren-
cester. Near this, in after times, was a rude for-
tress, called Castle Spiritual, which probably was
designed to command the passage of the Ness. In
removing some of the rains of the fortress, during
the progress of recent excavations for the improve-
ment of the Caledonian canal, a number of human
bones, the teeth being remarkably entire and fresh,
and one complete skeleton, were found. Some coins
of the reign of Elizabeth were also dug up. But
what occasioned most surprise was the discovery of
a nest of toads, completely encased in the solid wall,
with apparently not the slightest opening by which
ingress could be obtained. In a small cavity, about
three inches in diameter, were found six toads and
a lizard. On their first admission to the light of
day the toads appeared insensible; but on being
touched by the men they speedily revived.
BON- ACCORD. See" Aberdeen-.
BONALLY, an estate in the parish of Colinton, 5
miles south-west of Edinburgh. The mansion com-
prises a peel tower, built in 183S, and an older small
house ; and it is situated in a hollow of the pass
through the Pentland Hills ; and has a veiy inter-
esting appearance. It is the seat of John Gray, Esq.
On high grounds above it are two reservoir ponds
of the Edinburgh Water Works.
BONAR, or Bosak- Bridge, a village with a post-
office in the parish of Creich, Sutherlandshire. It is
eituated on the southern verge of the county, and on
the coast of the Dornoch frith, 12 miles west of the
town of Dornoch, and 13J west-north-west of T<in;
and consists chiefly of a line of houses overlooking
the water. It has an inn, is at the terminus of the
Highland railway, and will he the junction-point of
the railway from Caithness. Fairs are held on the
third Tuesday of July, Aug., and Sept. The com-
missioners for Highland roads and bridges, in April,
1811, reported, that all the investigations of High-
land lines of road north of Inverness, bad uniformly
designated the head of the Dornoch frith as a neces-
sary central point; and to the inhabitants of the
eastern part of Sutherland, and of all Caithness, it
was important that the passage should be established
as near to the coast as safe and practicable. The
inconvenience and danger experienced at the Meikle
ferry, at the mouth of the frith, and the circuitous
route by Portinlech, a ferry at the head of the frith,
rendered it very desirable to ascertain and determine
the most convenient place for crossing it between
these extreme .points. For this purpose, Creich and
Bonar appeared to possess nearly equal pretensions,
— the first being wider but nearer the coast, — the
other, narrower, but not affording so direct a road
towards the north-east. In 1811, Mr. Telford re-
ported to the commissioners as follows: "Having
repeatedly examined this frith, I find that about 12
miles above Dornoch, at Bonar ferry, it is contract-
ed into the breadth of about 70 yards at low water
of a spring tide ; at which time, 20 yards of that
breadth extending from the southern shore, is cover
ed by water not more than 3 feet in depth ; and as
the spring-tides rise no more than 8 feet, I conceive
it is practicable to construct a bridge at this place
where the several roads, south and north of it, may
be made to centre without inconvenience. As con-
siderable quantities of ice float here in winter, and
the tides ran with considerable velocity, it is ad-
visable to construct an iron bridge of one arch, 150
feet span, and 20 feet rise ; and by making the arch
to spring 3 feet above high water mark, no interrup-
tion can then take place. I accompany this with a
plan, in which I have endeavoured to improve the
principles of constructing iron bridges, and also their
external appearance ; the principal ribs have here
their parts all of equal dimensions, which, by cool-
ing equally, will avoid defects hitherto experienced
in structures of this sort ; the road- way, instead of
being supported by circles or perpendicular pillars as
formerly, is sustained by lozenge forms, which pre
serve straight lines, and keep the points of pressure in
the direction of the radii ; the covering plates, in-
stead of being solid as formerly, are to be made re-
ticulated, something in the way of malt-kiln tiles,
which enables them to be made thicker, and yet so
as to save a very considerable portion of iron, and
consequently weight." Mr. Telford's plan was car-
ried into execution in 1812. The bridge consists of
an iron arch of 150 feet span, and 2 stone arches of
60 and 50 feet respectively, presenting a water-way
of 260 feet. In the year 1814, the iron arch sus-
tained, without damage, a tremendous blow from an
irregular mass of fir-tree logs consolidated by ice;
and in 1818, a schooner was drifted under the bridge,
and suffered the loss of her 2 masts, the iron arch
remaining uninjured. The total cost of the bridge
was £13,971. By means of this bridge and that at
Lovat, the benefit of the Great Highland road, with-
out the intervention of any ferry, was extended to
the northern extremity of Great Britain ; the bridges
of Dunkeld, Lovat, Conan, and Bonar, forming a
connected series of bridges, which for size, solidity,
and utility, are not surpassed anywhere in the king-
dom. Population of Bonar, 247.
BONAW. See Bdnawe.
BONCHESTER, a beautiful high hill in the
BONESSAN.
180
BONHILL.
parish of Hobkirk, Roxburghshire. Bonchester-
Bridge in the vicinity is a post-office station.
BO'NESS. See Boebowstownness.
BONESSAN, a village with a post-office in the
district of Boss, and parish of Kilfinichen and Kil-
viceuen, in the island of Mull. Here is a parochial
church, which was built in 1804, and contains 350
sittings. Population of the village, 250.
BONGATE, a village in the parish of Jedburgh,
Roxburghshire. Population, 241.
BONHILL, a parish containing a small post-
town of the same name, and also the town of Alex-
andria and the villages of Dalvault, Jameston, and
Mill of Halden, in Dumbartonshire. It is bounded
by Loch-Lomond and by the parishes of Kilmaronock,
Dumbarton, Cardross, and Luss. Its length is 4J
miles, and its breadth about 4 miles. It extends
about a mile up the east side of Loch-Lomond and
about 2 miles up the west side ; and it comprises
the upper half of the vale of the Leven, together
with a portion of that vale's hill screens. It is one
of the most pleasant tracts of country in Scotland,
rich in soft natural diversities of feature, and beauti-
ful in manifold, tasteful adornments of art. Some
matters in the north-east district of it have been
noticed in the article Balloch. One of its finest
artificial objects is Tilliechewan Castle, a noble
modem edifice in the castellated Gothic style, oc-
cupying a well-chosen site, and surrounded by
charming pleasure-grounds. About 300 acres of
the parish are planted with larches and Scotch pines.
There was an ash-tree in the churchyard till 1845,
the trunk of which was 9 feet in length, the girth,
immediately above the surface of the ground, 25
feet; about 3 feet above the surface it measured 19J
feet; and, at the narrowest part, 18 feet. It divided
into three great branches; the girth of the largest
of which was 11 feet; of the second, 10; and of the
third, 9 feet 2 inches. The branches hung down to
within a few feet of the ground ; and from the ex-
tremity of the branches on the one side, to that of
those on the other, it measured no less than 94 feet.
There was another large ash-tree, the trunk of which
was about 11 feet in length; the girth, immediately
above the surface of the ground, 33 feet; and at the
narrowest part it measured 19 feet 10 inches. The
proprietor fitted up a room in the inside of it, with
benches around and three glass windows. The
diameter of the room was 8 feet 5 inches, and from
10 to 11 feet high. The river Leven cuts the lower
two-thirds of the parish into nearly equal parts, and
gives to their low grounds, a predominating char-
acter, both in features of sceneiy, and in forms of
industry. This river, — whose beauties Smollett has
sung in his well known verses : —
" On Leven 's banks while free to rove,
And tune the rural pipe to love,
I envied not the happiest swain
That ever trod th' Arcadian plain," —
is remarkable for the softness of its water, and the
clearness of its stream. Gaelic scholars derive its
name from the words Le, ' smooth ' or ' soft,' and
Avon, ' a river.' It issues from Loch-Lomond at
Balloch, and falls into the frith of Clyde at Dum-
barton castle. In a straight line from the lake to
the Clyde, it will measure about 5 miles; but its
course, owing to its windings, is more than 9 miles.
The fall from the lake to the Clyde is 22 feet. The
tide flows up the river more than a third of its
length ; and large vessels come up to the quay of
Dumbarton at high tide, but the navigation is
much impeded by a sand-bar at the mouth of the
river; where the tide fails, the vessels are drawn up
the river by horses. These vessels are constructed
to draw little water. They are chiefly employed in
carrying down wood and bark from the coppices in
Loch Lomond, and slates from the slate-quarries in
the parish of Luss. The Leven produces salmon,
parr, trout, and other small fish. The salmon fish-
ings belonged formerly to the burgh of Dumbarton,
but were bought about 1861 by Sir James Colquhoun
of Luss ; and they were at one time very valuable,
but have been considerably injured by defilement of
the river. Printfields, bleachfields, and Turkey red
dyeworks make a great figure in the vale ; and were
established here partly in consequence of the pecu-
liar suitableness of the Leven's water for their uses.
The first printfield was begun about 1768; three
printfields and four bleachfields were established
within the next 30 years ; and the following works
existed near the end of 1865, — Dalmonach print-
works, employing 930 persons, — Levenbank Turkey
red dye and print works, employing 1,100 persons,
— Alexandria Turkey red dye and print works, em-
ploying 1,200 persons, — Ferryfield print works, un-
occupied, but recently employing about 300 persons,
— Dallichip quondam print works, undergoing exten-
sive alterations and additions to become a Turkey
red dye work, employing from 300 to 400 persons,
— Milburn chemical works for pyroligneous acid
and other products,— Charleston engraving works,
and a few smaller establishments. The grounds oc-
cupied by the printfields and bleachfields are feued
at £2 10s. per acre. From 30 to 40 excellent houses
were built, about 1860, by Mr. Archibald Orr Ewing
for his workers. A large suite of cooking and
waiting-rooms was erected, in 1865, by Messrs.
John Orr Ewing & Co., at the gate of their exten-
sive works. A mechanics' institute existed many
years prior to 1865; but a handsome building for
it, at a cost of above £3,000, was then erected close
to the Alexandria end of the chain bridge over the
Leven ; and this contains a lecture-hall capable of
accommodating 1,100 persons, and two smaller
halls for classes and small meetings. The old
valued rent of the parish was £2,180 9s. 2d. Scots.
The ancient family of Lennox had a mansion-house
at the south end of Loch-Lomond; but nothing
remains of it except the fosse. The tradition is
that the materials of the mansion were carried from
this place to one of the islands in the lake, to build
a castle there, as a place of greater safety, and where
a considerable part of the building still remains,
though in ruins. The whole lands in the parish
formerly belonged to the family of Lennox ; but in
the 15th century, the Darnley family, by marriage,
got one-half of the estate, and the titles. The
other halt went to the Husky family. The general
prosperity of the parish has been materially pro-
moted by the formation of the Dumbartonshire
railway. The town of Bonhill stands on the left
bank of the Leven, contiguous to Alexandria, 3£
miles north of Dumbarton. It forms practically
one town with Alexandria, and participates in all
that place's facilities of communication by road and
railway. It has an office of the Commercial Bank,
and several benefit societies. Population in 1841,
2,041 ; in 1861, 2,765. Population of the parish in
1831, 3,874; in 1861,8,866. Houses, 692. Assessed
property in 1865, £28,741.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton,
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Duke
of Argyle. Stipend, average'ly £225, supplemented
by the congregation ; glebe, £15. There are two
parochial schools; and the salary connected with
each is £35. The parish church is mentioned in a
oharter of the 14th century ; and it has an attend-
ance of 1,150. Another church is in Alexandria,
and has an attendance of 700. A Free church is in
Bonhill, and another is in Alexandria; attendance,
BONJEDWARD.
181
BORGUE.
230 and 430 ; sums raised in 1865, £272 9s. 5d., and
£350 8s. lOJd. A United Presbyterian church is in
Bonhill, and another is in Alexandria ; attendance,
400 and 600. An Independent chapel is in Alex-
andria; attendance, 100. A Roman Catholic chapel
also is there, and was built in 1861 ; attendance, 700.
A female school is attached to each of the parochial
schools ; an excellent school is supported by Messrs.
James Black & Co.; and there are six other schools.
BONITOWN. See Auchtekhouse.
BONJEDWAKD, a village in the parish of Jed-
burgh, Roxburghshire. It stands at the intersection
of the road from Jedburgh to Edinburgh with the
road from Kelso to Hawick, about J of a mile above
the confluence of the Jed and the Teviot, and 2
miles north of Jedburgh. Population, 107.
BONKLE, a romantically situated village, on
Allanton estate, in the central part of the parish of
Cambusnethan, Lanarkshire. Here is an United
Presbyterian church, which was built in 1818, and
contains 560 sittings. Population, 110.
BONNINGTON, a village on the left bank of the
Water of Leith, and on the lower road from Edin-
burgh to Newhaven, about J a mile south of North
Leith and about a mile north of Edinburgh. It
comprises a few good lofty houses, and has a sub-
urban appearance. The Leith branch of the North
British railway passes near it, and has a station for
it. There is a mineral well here.
BONNINGTON, a village in the parish of Ratho,
about 1J mile west of the village of Ratio, Edin-
burghshire. The lands of Bonuington around it
belonged anciently to Robert de Erskine, — in the
middle of the 17th century to Lord Collington, — and
since then successively to the families of Durham,
Cunningham, and Wilkie. Population of the village
in 1851, 132.
BONNINGTON or Bonxyton, a hamlet in the
parish of Arbirlot, about 2 miles west of the village
of Arbirlot, Forfarshire.
BONNINGTON, or Boxnyton, Lanarkshire. See
Clyde (The').
BONNY (The), a rivulet of Dumbartonshire and
Stirlingshire. It rises in the south-east of the parish
of Cumbernauld, and runs ahout 7 miles north-east-
ward to a junction with the Carron a little below
Dunipace.
BONNYBRIDGE, a village in the parish of Fal-
kirk, Stirlingshire. It stands on Bonny "Water and
on the road from Falkirk to Glasgow, about a mile
above the mouth of Bonny Water and 4 miles west
of Falkirk. Here is a school with a small endow-
ment ; and in the vicinity is a small burying-ground.
Population, 184.
BONNYMOOR, a moorland rising-ground in the
parish of Falkirk, about a mile south of the village
of Bonnybridge, Stirlingshire. A skirmish took
place here in 1820, between a small party of armed
radicals from Glasgow and a small party of military.
The affair has been called the battle of Bonnymoor;
but was of no other consequence than for its terminat-
ing a period of intense political excitement in the
west of Scotland. Nineteen of the radical skirmish-
ers were taken prisoners and lodged in Stirling
Castle ; and after being brought to trial, two of them
were executed and the rest transported.
BONNYRIGG, a village in the parish of Cockpen,
Edinburghshire. It stands on the road from Lasswade
to Stow, ahout 1 mile south-east of Lasswade and 2
miles south-west of Dalkeith. It contains many
good houses, is a summer resort of families from
Edinburgh, and has a station on the Peebles rail-
way. Here is a Free church, whose yearly income
in 1865 amounted to £435 14s. Pop. 'in 1861, 898.
BONNYTON. See Bonsington and Maryton.
BOON DREIGII. See Legerwood.
BOON HILL. See Legerwood.
BOOSHALA, or Bhuachille, an islet off the
south coast of Staft'a, from which it is separated by
a channel about 30 yards wide, through which a
foamy surf is constantly rushing. It is of an irregu-
lar pyramidal form, entirely composed of basaltic
pillars inclined in every direction, but principally
pointing towards the top of the cone, resembling —
Dr. Garnet remarks — billets of wood piled up in
order to be charred. Many of the columns are
horizontal, and some of them are bent into segments
of circles.
BOOTHILL. See Scone.
BOQUHAN. See Garguhuock and Kippen.
BORA HOLM, one of the Orkneys; constituting
part of the parish of Rendal. It lies opposite to the
entrance of the harbour called the Millburn, in the
isle of Gairsa, and is iminhabited.
BORELAND, a village in the parish of Dysart,
ahout A a mile south-east of Gallaton, Fifeshire. It
is inhabited chiefly by colliers. It was founded
about 120 years ago, and was at one time a good
deal more extensive than at present. Population
in 1841, 193; in 1861,313.
BORELAND PARK, a village in the parish of
Auchterarder, Perthshire. Population in 1851, 141.
See Auchterarder.
BORENNICH, a district of the valley of the
Tummel, in the parish of Blair- Athole, Perthshire.
BORERAY, a small fertile island of the Hebrides,
lying northward of North Uist. It is about 1A mile
in length, and A_ mile in hreadth. Lochmore, a small
lake in this island, the bottom of which was only
2 J feet above low water-mark, was recently drained,
whereby, at an expense of only £125, about 47 Scots
acres of good soil, being a mixture of alluvial earth
and sand, were gained. Population, 181.
BORERAY, a small island of the Hebrides, about
a mile in circuit, lying 2 miles north of St. Kilda.
BORGIE (The), a rivulet of Sutherlandshire. It
issues from Loch Loyal, and flows north-north-east-
ward, chiefly along the boundary between the
parish of Farr and the parish of Tongue, to the west
side of the bay of Torrisdale, at a point about a mile
west of the mouth of the Naver. Its length of
course is about 9 miles.
BORGUE, a parish, containing_ the post-office
village of Borgue, and also the villages of Kirk-
andrews and Chapelton, on the seaboard of Kirkcud-
brightshire. It comprises the ancient parishes of
Borgue, Sandwick, and Kirkandrews. It is bounded
by the Solway frith, the estuary of the Dee, and the
parishes of Twynholm and Girthon. It has a tri-
angular outline, and measures 10 miles in length, 7
miles in extreme breadth, and about 25 square miles
in area. Its coast has an extent of upwards of 15
miles, with several hays and indentations where
vessels may safely ride at anchor; and it presents
in some places perpendicular cliffs 300 feet high and
very grandly picturesque. The views from the
summit of these cliffs, and from a small island called
Little Ross, comprise a superb panorama of the cir-
cumjacent sea-board, the Solway, the Irish Sea, the
Isle of Man, and the mountain- ranges of Cumber-
land. The surface of the parish is very unequal,
consisting largely of the alluvial bottoms of ancient
lakes encompassed with hillocks and rising grounds
of great diversity of form. About one-third is un
cultivated and could not be profitably reclaimed;
and nearly all the rest is regularly or occasionally
in tillage. The prevailing arable soil is a free loam.
The chief landowners are the Earl of Selkirk, Sir
William Gordon of Earlston, and four others. The
average rent of arable land is about £1 per acre.
BOELEY.
182
BOEEOWSTOWNNESS.
The total yearly value of raw produce was estimated
in 1843, at £17,133. Assessed property in 1860,
£10,526. The mansion of Earlston is a large, hand-
some, modem edifice in the midst of well-wooded
grounds. Plunton castle and the tower of Balman-
gan are fine ruins, belonging probably to the 15th
or 16th century. The village of Borgue stands in
the eastern district of the parish, about 2J miles
from the coast, and about 4 miles south-west of
Kirkcudbright. Population in 1851, 47. The vil-
lage of Kirkandrews stands contiguous to a creek
of the Solway, called Kirkandrews bay, 3 miles
Bouth-east of the entrance of Fleet bay. This vil-
lage was, in former times, a place of some note.
The population of it in 1841, was 47; and that of
Chapelton was 31. The old parish of Sandwick
forms the southern part of the present parish. The
ruins of its church are still visible on the coast.
Tradition relates that it was sacrilegiously plundered
of its plate by French rovers, sometime previous to
the Reformation; but that a storm wrecked the
vessel on a rock nearly opposite the church, where
the pirates perished. It is called the Frenchman's
rock. The church of Kirkandrews originally be-
longed to the monks of Iona. When the devasta-
tions of the Danish pirates left them without an
establishment, William the Lion transferred it, along
with their churches and estates in Galloway, to the
monks of Holyrood. It afterwards fell into the
hands of the prior and canons of Whithorn. The
rains of it still exist. Population of the parish in
1831, 894; in 1861, 1,162. Houses, 203.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcudbright,
and synod of Galloway. Patron, the Crown. Sti-
pend, £230 16s. 10d.; glebe, £29. Schoolmaster's
salary now is £70, with £36 fees, and £50 other
emoluments. The parish church was built in 1814,
and contains about 500 sittings. It is a handsome
Gothic structure, and stands on a conspicuous site.
There is a Free church: attendance. 170; yearly
sum raised in 1865, £127 15s. 7jd. There is a pri-
vate school.
BORLAND. See Boeeland.
BOELEY (Loch), a small lake in the parish of
Durness, north of Sutherlandshire, containing abun-
dance of a species of trouts called Red bellies, which
are only fished for in October.
BOROUGH HEAD, the promontory at the south-
ern extremity of the parish of Whitehorn, and east
side of the entrance of Luce Bay, Wigtonshire. It
forms a projection at the extreme south of Scotland
similar to the Mull of Galloway; and it terminates
in bold cliffs, 200 feet high, and pierced with caves.
BOROUGH-MOOR, a tract of ground, formerly
an open common, in the parishes of St. Cuthbert
and Liberton, Edinburghshire. It lies adjacent to
the south side of the city of Edinburgh. In the
west end of it once stood a large chapel dedicated to
St. Eoque; and round this was a cemetery where
those who died of the plague were interred. The
town-council, in 1532, granted four acres of ground
in the Borough-moor to Sir John Young the chap-
lain, for which he was bound to keep the roof and
windows of the chapel in repair; but at the Reforma-
tion the church and churchyard were converted into
private property. A part of the walls of this chapel
are still standing ; Grose has preserved a view of it.
This moor appears, in 1513, to have abounded with
large oak-trees; and here James IV. reviewed his
army before he marched to the fatal battle of Flod-
den-field. See Edinburgh.
BORROWSTOWN, a hamlet on the coast of the
parish of Reay, 6 miles west of Thurso, Caithness-
shire. Near it are a number of small caves and a
strong natural arch.
BORROWSTOWN— formerly Burwardstown— a
village in the parish of Borrowstownness, Linlith-
gowshire. It stands about § of a mile south of the
town of Borrowstownness, on the road thence to
Linlithgow.
BORROWSTOWNNESS, or Bo'kess, a parish
containing a post-town of the same name, and also
the villages of Borrowstown and Newtown, in the
north-west corner of Linlithgowshire. It is bounded
by Stirlingshire, the frith of Forth, and the parishes
of Carriden and Linlithgow. Its length eastward is
about 4 miles; and its average breadth is about
2 miles. The river Avon traces all the bouudary
with Stirlingshire. The highest ground in the
parish is Irongath Hill or Glour-o'er-'em, situated
in the south-east corner, rising to the height of 520
feet above the level of the frith, and commanding a
very extensive and beautiful prospect. A tract of
flat rich alluvium, called the carse of Kinniel, lies in
the north-west; and the beach thence eastward is
low ground between a high bank landward and a
great expanse of muddy silts at ebb tide seaward.
All the rest of the parish declines gradually from
Irongath Hill to the west and north. The soil is a
deep loam well-cultivated. There are several ex-
cellent coal-pits; ironstone also abounds; and there
are great beds of limestone, but of bad quality.
Quarries of freestone and whinstone are wrought.
The house of Kinniel, long inhabited by the vener-
able and accomplished metaphysician, Dugald Stew-
art, is a seat of the Hamilton family, and as such is
frequently mentioned in history. Antoninus' Wall
traversed the parish, and had a fort in it, and is
thought by some to have terminated here. The
Duke of Hamilton is the only heritor. The real
rental is about £14,700. In 1774 an embankment,
1J mile in length, was made westwards from the
town along the north side of the carse of Kinniel,
with the view not of gaining but of saving ground
from the sea. It has answered this purpose very
well, and effectually protects about 450 acres of
carse-land, at present rented at £4 4s. per acre.
Population of the parish in 1831,2,809; in 1861,
5,698. Houses, 609. The increase of population
has arisen from the working of coal and iron mines.
Assessed property in 1860, £25,917.
This parish is in the presbytery of Linlithgow,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, the
Duke of Hamilton. Stipend, £272 7s. 7d. ; glebe,
£21. Schoolmaster's salary now is £55, with £60
fees. The parish church is situated in the town of
Borrowstownness. It was repaired and partly re-
built in 1820, and contains 950 sittings. There is
a Free church for Borrowstownness and Carriden :
attendance from 300 to 400; yearly sum raised in
1865, £173 Is. 9Jd. There is an United Presby-
terian church in the town, containing about 400 sit-
tings. There are several private schools. — Prior
to the middle of the 17th century, Kinniel was the
name of the parish ; but the inhabitants of Borrows-
townness having built a church for themselves, the
town was created a separate parish. In 1669, the
Duke of Hamilton procured an act of parliament for
uniting the two districts ; and since that time the
old landward church of Kinniel has been neglected,
though the burying-ground remains. There was a
considerable town of Kinniel long before the found-
ing of the town of Borrowstownness ; but it has
completely disappeared.
The Town of Bokrowstownness is a sea-port and
a burgh of barony, 3 miles north of Linlithgow, 8
east by north of Falkirk, and 9 west-north-west of
South Queensferry. It is situated on a low penin-
sula washed by the Forth, at the north-east corner
of the parish, only a few feet above high water-mark.
BORROWSTOWNNESS.
183
BORTHWICK.
It has two principal streets running from west to
cast about 300 yards, which terminate in one which
is 350 yards more. The streets and lanes are nar-
row; the houses in general low and old- fashioned.
The town grew suddenly into bulk in the 17th
century, then flourished exceedingly for a short
Seriod, and then stood still or began to fall into
ecay. About the beginning of that century, only
one house stood on the shore between Kinniel man-
sion and Camden ; and about the end of the century,
the town of Borrowstownness and some villages to
the east of it formed an almost continuous line of
buildings, two miles in length, along the coast.
Defoe, speaking of the state of things in his time,
says, " Borrowstownness consists only of one strag-
gling street, which is extended along the shore,
close to the water. It has been, and still is, a town
of the greatest trade to Holland and France of any
in Scotland, except Leith ; but it suffers very much
of late by the Dutch trade being carried on so much
by way of England. However, if the Glasgow
merchants would settle a trade to Holland and
Hamburgh in the firth, by bringing their foreign
goods by land to Alloa, and exporting them from
thence, as they proposed some time ago, 'tis very
likely the Borrowstownness men would come into
business again ; for as they have the most shipping,
so they are the best seamen in the firth, and are
very good pilots for the coast of Holland, the Baltic,
and the coast of Norway."
Borrowstownness was constituted a head port in
1707, with a district extending on both sides of the
frith from Cramond Water and Dunibrissle Point to
the boundaries of Alloa, In 1799, the corps of the
port, including all attendants at the creeks, amounted
to 44 persons; but in recent years it has been re-
duced to 11, — only three of whom officiate at the
head -port. Grangemouth was made a separate
port in 1810. Acts of parliament were obtained at
several dates between 1744 and 1816 for improving
the harbour of Borrowstownness, regulating the
affairs of the port, and cleaning, paving, and light-
ing the town, and supplying it with water ; but the
powers created by these acts proved incompetent, —
insomuch that desirable improvements could be
but partially undertaken, and a debt of upwards of
£2,000 was gradually contracted; so that in 1842
application was made to parliament for greatly en-
larged powers. The harbour comprises a basin of
240 feet in breadth, and two piers of 566 feet in
length, and has a depth of water at spring tides of
from 16 to 20 feet. In 1794, 25 vessels belonged to
the town, 11 of which were brigantines engaged in
the Baltic trade, and 6 were brigantines under con-
tract to sail regularly once every fortnight to and
from London; and about the same time between
110 and 150 vessels belonged to the several creeks.
In 1839, there belonged to the entire port 101 ves-
sels, of aggregately 6,521 tons; and in 1864, 61
vessels, of aggregately 6,307 tons. During the
year 1860, the coasting trade comprised a tonnage
of 3,735 inward, and of 38,166 outward ; and during
1863 the entire trade comprised a tonnage of 14,010
inward in British vessels, 12,453 inward in foreign
vessels, 80,044 outward in British vessels, and
73,906 outward in foreign vessels. A grand cause
of the falling off was the opening of the Forth and
Clyde canal, and the erection of Grangemouth into a
separate port. An attempt was early made to avert
the evil by beginning to cut a canal from the town
to Grangemouth, to communicate there with the
Forth and Clyde canal ; but this project was never
completed.
Whale-fishing at one time occupied the attention
of the inhabitants of Borrowstownness to such an
extent that they had eight whale-ships and two
boiling-houses; but this avocation proved on the
whole disastrous, and was gradually relinquished.
The home-fisheries of the town and its vicinity are
of small value. A pottery, a foundry, a small rope-
work, and a large distillery, all of long standing, give
various employment. Two important recent acces-
sories are theKinniel iron-works, and a branch rail-
way communicating with the Monkland system at
Airdrie. An extensive grain trade is carried on in
the town. A weekly market is held on Monday.
An annual fair is held on the 16th of November.
The town has a branch office of the Clydesdale
Bank, a subscription library, a total abstinence so-
ciety, and several charitable institutions. Borrow-
stownness is a burgh of barony under the Duke of
Hamilton, and is governed by a bailie. Population
in 1841, 1,790; in 1861, 3,814. Houses, 310.
BOKTHWICK, a parish, containing the post
office hamlet of Fushie-Bridge, and part of the post-
office village of Ford, in the Moorfoot district of
Edinburghshire. It contains also the villages of
Clayhouse, Dewarton, Middleton, North Middleton,
and Newlandrig, the hamlets of Borthwick, or kirk-
town of Borthwick, Castleton, Brewery, Bell's-
Mains, and Catcune Mill, and part of the village of
Stobb's Mills. It is bounded by the parishes of Car-
rington, Cockpen, Newbattle, Cranston, Crichton,
Heriot, and Temple. Measured from Ford on the
north-east to Castleton hill on the south-west, it is
nearly 6 miles in length ; and from Amiston bridge
on the north-west to Fala hill on the south-east, it
is about 4 miles in breadth. The general aspect of
the parish is hilly, especially when viewed from the
kirk-town, which is near the centre of the parish.
Two streams, known as the South and North Mid-
dleton burns, descend from the Moorfoot hills on
the southern boundary, and, after pursuing north-
easterly courses, unite a little above the kirk-town ;
and then fetching a circuit round the mole on which
Borthwick castle is built, flow north-west, under
the name of the Gore, to a point a little beyond Ar-
niston bridge, where they unite with the South Esk.
These streams drain a vast extent of upland surface,
and are consequently subject to sudden and exten-
sive floods. The South Esk divides this parish
from Carrington ; and the Tyne divides it on the
east from Crichton. Many romantic scenes occur
throughout this district, particularly in the valleys
of the Gore and the Tyne ; and the locality is a fa-
vourite one with botanists. Grahame has described
the sylvan sceneiy of the district in the following
lines : —
" What though fair Scotland's valleys rarely vaunt
The oak majestical, whose aged boughs
Darken a rood breadth ! yet nowhere is seen
More beauteously profuse, wild underwood ;
Nowhere 'tis seen more beauteously profuse.
Than on thy tangling banks, well-wooded Esk,
And Borthwick, thine, above that fairy nook
Formed by your blending streams. The hawthorn there.
With moss and lichen grey, dies of old age,
o steel profane permitted to intrude:
Up to the topmost branches climbs the rose,
And mingles with the fading flowers of May;
While round the brier the honeysuckle wreaths
Entwine, and witli their sweet perfume embalm
The dying rose; a never-failing blow
From spring to fall expands; the sloethom white,
As il a flaky shower the leafless sprays
Had hung; the hawthorn, May's fair diadem;
The whin's rich dye ; the bonny broom ; the rasp
Erect; the rose, red, white, and faintest pink;
And long-extending bramble's flowery shoots."
There are large beds of limestone within the parish ;
and lime is extensively manufactured at Hemperston
and Middleton, at Vogrie and Arniston. Coal is
extensively wrought on the estate of Vogrie. Sand-
BORTHWICK.
184
BORTHWICK.
stone abounds; and one quarry of it is wrought.
There are six landowners, — five of whom reside
within the parish on their estates of Arniston, Mid-
dleton, Vogrie, Chime, and Harvieston. The road
from Edinburgh to Galashiels, and the Edinburgh
and Hawick railway, traverse the parish; and the
latter has a station in it at Fushie-Bridge.
This parish evidently derives its name from the
ancient and once powerful family of Borthwick,
concerning whose origin traditional accounts are
very various. Some say that they were descended
from one Andreas, a son of the lord of Burtick in
Livonia, who accompanied Queen Margaret from
Hungary to Scotland, in 1057, and having got
possession of some lands in the west or south
parts of this country, his posterity, with some
small alteration in the spelling, assumed the sur-
name of Borthwick, from the place of their progeni-
tor's birth. Others are of opinion that the name is
merely local. Be that as it may, certain it is, that
during the 15th and following centuries, the lords of
Borthwick had immense possessions and very great
influence in this part of the country. The peerage
is now dormant; John, the 9th Lord Borthwick,
having died without issue in 1672. The present
proprietor, though a branch of the old family, ac-
quired the property by purchase, and is now a
claimant for the titles also of his ancestors. What
now constitutes this parish formerly belonged to the
college-kirk of Crichton, which lies about a mile
north-east of this place. In April, 1596, James I.
dissolved from the said college-kirk the prebendaries
of Ardnalestoun (now Arniston), of Middleton first
and second, and of Vogrie, of old called Lochquhar-
ret, or Locherwart, and also two hoys or clerks to
assist in the performance of divine service, with
suitable salaries annexed to their office. These
prebendaries, with the whole vicarage of Borth-
wick, fruits, rents, manse, and glebe thereof, were
then, by a royal charter, erected into a distinct and
separate charge, to he in all time coming called the
parsonage of Borthwick. The year before this, the
presbytery of Dalkeith had designed a glebe for Mr.
Adam Colt, the then officiating parson; but this
they seem to have considered only as a measure of
expediency, the parish having been constituted be-
fore the royal charter could be obtained. This deed
must have been regarded at the time as a transac-
tion of considerable importance; for, in 1606, the
erection of the parsonage by the said charter was
solemnly ratified in parliament, and in 1609, con-
firmed by George, archbishop of St. Andrew's, as
the patron of said prebendaries ; always reserving,
however, the presentation and advocation of all the
premises, gifts, and benefices, to himself and suc-
cessors in office.
About 1J mile below the kirk-town, there is, on
the lands of Harvieston, beautifully situated by the
side of the Gore, a ruin, called the old castle of Cat-
cune, which is said to have been the residence of
the family of Borthwick, before they had risen to
such eminence in this country. About the end of
the 14th and beginning of the 15th centuiy, lived
a Sir William Borthwick, who, being a man of great
parts, was employed as an ambassador on several
important negotiations, and concerned in most of
the public transactions of his time. This William
appears to have been created Lord Borthwick before
1 430 ; for, in October of that year, at the baptism of
the King's two sons, several knights were created,
and among the rest William, son and heir of Lord
Borthwick. He obtained from James I., of Scot-
land, a license to build and fortify a castle on the
lands of Lochwarret, or Locherworth, which he had
bought from Sir William Hay: "Ad construendam
castrum in loco illo qui vulgariter dicitur le Mote dc
Lochorwart." This grant was obtained by a char-
ter under the great seal, June 2d, 1430. A stately
and most magnificent castle was accordingly reared,
and afterward became the chief seat and title of the
family. This amazing mass of building is yet
upon the whole very entire, and of astonishing
strength. There is indeed in the middle of the east
wall a considerable breach ; but whether occasioned
by a flash of lightning, or by the influence of the
weather, or by some original defect in the building,
cannot now with certainty be determined. The
form of this venerable structure is nearly square,
being 74 by 68 feet without the walls, but having
on the west side a large opening which seems to
have been intended to give light to the principal
apartments. The walls themselves — which are of
hewn stone without and within, and most firmly
cemented — are 13 feet thick near the bottom, and
towards the top are gradually contracted to about
6 feet. Besides the sunk story, they are, from the
adjacent area to the battlement, 90 feet high ; and
if we include the roof, which is arched and covered
with flag-stones, the whole height will he about 110
feet. " From the battlements of Borthwick castle,
which command a varied and beautiful view, the
top of Crichton castle can he discovered, lying about
two miles distant to the eastward. The conveni-
ence of communicating by" signal with a neighbour-
ing fortress was an object so much studied in the
erection of Scottish castles, that, in all probability,
this formed one reason of the unusual height to
which Borthwick castle is raised." — ['Provincial
Antiquities of Scotland.' Edn. 1834, p. 200.] _ In
one of the low apartments is an excellent spring-
well, now filled up with rubbish. On the first story
are state-rooms, which were once accessible by a
draw-bridge. The great hall is 40 feet long, and so
high in the roof that, saj'S Nisbet, " a man on horse-
back might turn a spear in it with all the ease ima-
ginable." The chimney, which is very large, has
been carved and gilded, and in every corner may be
traced the remains of fallen greatness. " On the
11th of June, 1567, Morton, Mar, Hume, and Lind-
say, with other inferior barons, and attended by
nine hundred or a thousand horse, on a sudden sur-
rounded the castle of Borthwick, where Bothwell
was in company with the queen. Bothwell had
such early intelligence of their enterprise, that he
had time to ride off with a very few attendants; and
the insurgent nobles, when they became aware of
his escape, retreated to Dalkeith, and from thence
to Edinburgh, where they had friends who declared
for them, in spite of the efforts of Queen Mary's
partisans. The latter, finding themselves the
weaker party, retreated to the castle, while the pro-
vost and the armed citizens, to whom the defence of
the town was committed, did not, indeed, open their
gates to the insurgent lords, but saw them forced
without offering opposition. These sad tidings
were carried to Maiy by Beaton, the writer of the
letter, who found her still at Borthwick, ' so quiet,
that there was none with her passing six or seven
persons.' She had probably calculated on the citi-
zens of Edinburgh defending the capital against the
insurgents; when this hope failed, she resolved on
flight. ' Her majesty,' says the letter, ' in men's
clothes, hooted and spurred, departed that same
night from Borthwick to Dunbar : whereof no man
knew, save my lord duke, (i. e. Bothwell, created
Duke of Orkney,) and some of his servants, who
met her majesty a mile from Borthwick, and con-
veyed her to Dunbar.' We may gather from these
particulars, that, although the confederated lords
had declared against Bothwell, they had not as yet
BORTHWICK.
185
BOS WELL'S (St.)
adopted the purpose of imprisoning Queen Mary
herself. When Bothwcll's escape was made known,
tho blockade of Borthwick was instantly raised,
although the place had neither garrison nor means
of defonce. The more audacious enterprise of
making the queen prisoner, had not been adopted
by the insurgents until the event of the incidents at
Carberrv-hill showed such to have been the Scottish
Queen's unpopularity at the time, that any attempt
might be hazarded against her person or liberty,
without the immediate risk of its being resented by
her subjects. There seems to have been an interval
of nearly two days betwixt the escape of Bothwell
from Borthwick castle, and the subsequent flight of
the Queen in disguise to Dunbar. If, during that
interval, Mary could have determined on separating
her fortunes from those of the deservedly detested
Bothwell, her pa?e in histoiy might have closed
more happily." — [' Provincial Antiquities,' p. 208.]
The castle is surrounded on every side but one by
steep ground and water, and at equal distances from
the base are square and round towers. " Like many
other baronial residences in Scotland, Sir AVilliam
de Borthwick built this magnificent pile upon the
very verge of his own property. The usual reason
for choosing such a situation was hinted by a
northern baron, to whom a friend objected this cir-
cumstance as a defect, at least an inconvenience:
' We'll hrizz yont ' {Anglice, press forward,) was the
baron's answer; which expressed the policy of the
powerful in settling their residence upon the extre-
mity of their domains, as giving pretext and oppor-
tunity for making acquisitions at the expense of
their neighbours. William de Hay, from whom Sir
William Borthwick had acquired a part of Locher-
worth, is said to have looked with envy upon the
splendid castle of his neighbour, and to have vented
his spleen by building a mill upon the lands of Lit-
tle Lockerworth, immediately beneath the knoll on
which the fortress was situated, declaring that the
Lord of Borthwick, in all his pride, should never be
out of hearing of the clack of his neighbour's mill.
The mill accordingly still exists, as a property in-
dependent of the castle." — [' Provincial Antiquities,'
p. 200.] Strong, however, as this fortress was both
by nature and art, it was not proof against the
arms of Oliver Cromwell. John, 8th Lord Borth-
wick, had, during the Civil war, remained firmly
attached to the royal cause, and thus drew upon
himself the vengeance of the Protector, who, by a
letter, dated at Edinburgh, 18th November, 1650,
summoned him to surrender in these terms :
"For the Governor of Borthwick Castle, These.
" Sir, — I thought fitt to send this trumpett to you, to lett you
know that, if you please to walk away with your company, and
deliver the house to such as I shall send to receive it, you shall
have libertie to carry off your armes and goods, and such other
necessaries as you have. You harboured such parties in your
house as have basely unhumanely murdered our men; if you
necessitate me to bend my cannon against you. you must expect
"what I doubt you will not be pleased with. I expect your pie-
sent answer, and rest your sen-ant,
O. Ceostwell."
A surrender was not the immediate consequence of
this peremptory summons, for the castle held out
until artillery were opened upon it; but seeing no
appearance of relief, Lord Borthwick obtained
honourable terms of capitulation, viz., liberty to
march out with his lady and family unmolested, and
fifteen days allowed to remove his effects. Not-
withstanding the waste of time, the grand appear-
ance of this princely edifice still fills the mind of
the beholder with veneration.
This parish has produced several eminent men.
Principal Robertson was born in the manse of
Borthwick, and ever cherished an attachment to the
place of his nativity, and the scenes of his youth.
The Dundases of Arniston have made a conspicuous
figure in Scottish history. Two of the heads of
that family were presidents of the highest civil
courts in this country; and the Eight Honourable
Henry Dundas rose to the office of secretary of
state. James Small, an eminent mechanic and
agricultural implement-maker, was also a native of
this parish. Population in 1831, 1,473; in 1861,
1,742. Houses, 333. Assessed property in 1843,
£6,837 os. Id.; in 1860, £9,733.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dalkeith, and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Dundas
of Arniston. Stipend, £198 12s. 3d.; glebe, £28.
Unappropriated teinds, £15 0s. 8d. Schoolmaster's
salary now is £53, with about £30 fees. The par-
ish church was rebuilt in 1863, and is a handsome
Gothic edifice, with tower and spire. A previous
church was coeval with the castle, and is now an
interesting ruin.
BORTHWICK (The), a rivulet partly of Selkirk-
shire, but chiefly of Roxburghshire. Its head-streams,
Craikhope burn, Howpassley burn, and Brownshope
burn, descend from the range of hills on the south-
west skirts of the county, where the shires of Sel-
kirk, Dumfries, and Roxburgh meet. It flows in a
north-east direction and with a rapid course, through
the parish of Roberton ; and after a run of about 13
miles, joins the Teviot a little below Branxholm,
and about 2 miles above Hawick. Its vale is gen-
erally narrow.
BORTHWICKBRAE, an estate in the parish of
Roberton, on the mutual border of Selkirkshire and
Roxburghshire. The mansion-house is a good
modern building. Near it is an ancient burying-
ground, where formerly stood a chapel, and which
is still the principal burial-place of the parish. This
place is situated about 1J mile south-west of the
parish church, and is sometimes called Kirk-Borth-
wick.
BORVE. See Fae.
BOSTON CHURCH. See Ddkse.
BOSWELL'S (St.), or Lessudden, a parish con-
taining a post-offiee village of its own name, ou the
north border of Roxburghshire. It is bounded on
the north by Berwickshire, and on other sides by
the parishes of Maxton, Ancrum, Bowden, and
Melrose. Its length north-eastward is 3 miles ;
and its breadth is about 1 J mile. The Tweed, flow-
ing between bold, beautiful, well-wooded banks,
forms the boundary with Berwickshire. St. Bos-
well's burn comes in from Bowden, and runs across
the interior to the Tweed. The contiguous portions
of Bowden and Melrose parishes send aloft the pic-
turesque masses of the Eildon Hills, and the con-
tiguous portion of Berwickshire is the exquisitely
rich and variegated tract around Dryburgh; but
the parish of St. Boswell's itself has none but soft
features, — partly flat, partly undulating, and only
in one place lofty enough to be called a brae. But
this one place, which is situated on the north side
of the village, directly overlooks Dryburgh, and
commands altogether one of the most lovely views
within the superbly scenic basin of the "Tweed.
About 175 acres of the parish are under wood, about
25 are abrupt grounds on the Tweed and its afflu-
ents, about 40 are a divided common, called St.
Boswell's Green, and all the rest are regularly or
occasionally in tillage. There are 16 landowners.
The real rental in 1792 was about £1,600; and in
1847 it was £5,215. Assessed property in 1864,
£6,403. An extensive and elegant hunting estab-
lishment was erected by the Duke of Buccleuch
about the year 1830 to the north of St. Boswell's
Green. Lessudden House, a fine old mansion be-
BOSWELL'S (St.)
186
BOTHWELL.
longing to Scott of Raebum, stands at the east end
of the village. The road from Edinburgh to Jed-
burgh traverses the parish. Both the Hawick
branch and the Kelso branch of the Edinburgh and
Roxburghshire railway also traverse it; and the
forking of this railway into these branches takes
place at Newtown station, on the southern border
of the parish of Melrose, about a mile from the vil-
lage of Lessudden. Population of the parish of St.
Boswell's in 1831, 701 ; in 1861, 865. Houses, 148.
This parish is in the presbytery of Selkirk, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Duke
of Buccleuch. Stipend, £211 lis. 7d. ; glebe, £12.
Unappropriated teinds, £572 10s. Schoolmaster's
salary is £50, with about £40 fees. The parish
church is an old building, enlarged in 1824, and
contains about 300 sittings. There is a Free
church: average attendance, 150; sum raised in
1865, £189 10s. lljd.
The Village op St. Boswell's or Lessudden
stands on the east side of the parish, nearly oppo-
site Dryburgh Abbey, 4 miles south-east of Melrose,
and 10 west-south-west of Kelso. The original
village of St. Boswell's stood about | of a mile
south-east of this, but has completely disappeared.
It derived its name from St. ' Boisel, who was the
preceptor of St. Cuthbert, and is supposed to have
founded its church. The present village generally
bears the name of Lessudden, and may have origin-
ally been called Lis-Aidan, which means the resi-
dence of Aidan, or perhaps Lessedwin — as it is in
old chartularies — that is, the manor-place of Edwin.
It figures in history so early as the time of William
the Lion ; and it was burnt by the English, under
Sir Ralph Sadler, in 1544. It consists at present of
a single street, and contains a number of good
houses. The most notable thing connected with it
is the great annual fair of St. Boswell's, which is
held on St. Boswell's Green. This is the greatest
in the south of Scotland. It is held on the 18th of
July, or on the Monday following, if the 18th fall
on a Sunday. Its happening either on the Monday
or Saturday is very justly thought to occasion much
inattention to the religious observance of the Sab-
bath ; and the evil has been often and long since
complained of, but no remedy has yet been applied.
If the day be fine, the concourse of people from all
the surrounding country is immense ; and some
come from a very considerable distance. Great
flocks of sheep and lambs — the latter chiefly Leices-
ter and crosses — are brought hither from all parts
of the adjacent country, and generally find so ready
a market as to be disposed of early in the morning,
or at latest in the forenoon. The average number
shown at this fair, until within these twenty years,
was 30,000; it does not now exceed 20,000. The
chief purchasers are the Berwickshire and the East
Lothian graziers. The show of black cattle is not
very imposing ; but the show of horses has usually
been so fine that buyers attend from all parts both
of the north of England and south of Scotland.
Linen cloth, hardware, toys, crockery, and other
miscellaneous articles, are also exhibited to a con-
siderable amount in value, in booths — or, as they
are here called, craims — which are erected in great
numbers on the green. St. Boswell's is among the
last of the wool-fairs, and generally winds up the
wool-trade for the season. The money turned in
the course of the day at this fair used to be from
£8,000 to £10,000 sterling. The Duke of Buc-
cleuch receives a certain rate or toll upon sheep,
cattle, and all other commodities brought into this
fair for sale. Old sheep pay one merk Scots per
score ; lambs, one-half of that sum ; and so on.
This toll is sometimes collected by people appointed
for the purpose ; but is more commonly let for such
a sum of money as can be agreed on. The highest
at which it ever was let was £53 ; the average was
long supposed to be about £38 ; and the amount in
1864 was £32. Population of the village, 447.
BOTHAN'S (St.). See Abbey Saint Bathan's.
BOTHKENNAB, a parish containing part of the
village of Carron-Shore, in the Carse of Falkirk,
Stirlingshire. It is bounded on the east by the
frith of Forth, and on other sides by the parishes of
Airth, Larbert, and Falkirk. Its post-town is
Grangemouth. The length and breadth of the
parish are each about 1 J mile. Carron Water seems
anciently to have traced all the southern boundary,
but that river, having changed its course, now in-
tersects both the parishes of Bothkennar and Falkirk,
leaving part of the former on the south, and a small
part of the latter upon the north side of it. The
surface of the parish is a dead flat, and consists of
the richest alluvium. It comprises 2,646 statute
acres, and, with the exception of roads, is all under
cultivation. The real rental in 1796 was about
£2,808. Upwards of one-third belongs to the Earl
of Zetland ; and the rest is dispersed among seven-
teen heritors. Population in 1831, 905; in 1861,
1,722. Houses, 272. Assessed property in 1860,
£7,861. — This parish is in the presbytery of Stirling,
and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, John
Dallas, E. N. Stipend, £201 12s. 10d;; glebe, £12.
Schoolmaster's salary now is £50, with £10 fees.
The church was built in 1789, and contains more
than sufficient accommodation for the parishioners.
BOTHWELL, a parish, containing the post-office
villages of Bothwell, Bellshill, Holytown, Newart-
hill, and Uddingstone, and also the village of
Chapelhall, in the middle ward of Lanarkshire. It
is bounded by the parishes of Old Monkland, New
Monkland, Shotts, Dalziel, Hamilton, and Blantyre.
It has an oval outline, extending from east to west
about 8J miles, with an extreme breadth of about 4
miles. The South Calder traces the southern bound-
ary; the Clyde traces the south-western and western
boundary ; and the North Calder traces the north-
eastern and the northern boundary. The upper part
of the parish is a great flat at a mean height of
about 300 feet above the level of the sea ; and the
part toward the Clyde is lower and more diversified.
The highest ground is on the eastern border, and
has an elevation of about 680 feet above sea-level.
A tabular tract of more than a mile in length rises
up from beautiful haughs on the Clyde, and extends
along the banks of that river, with rich contributions
to the force and beauty of its landscapes, from the
vicinity of Bothwell Bridge to the village of Udding-
stone. All the parish, with trivial exceptions, is
arable. The soil is chiefly clay or loam, and in the
tracts near the Clyde is very fertile. There are up-
wards of 40 heritors. The old valuation of the
parish is £7,389 16s. 0-f%d. Scots. In 1650, the rental
was £1,950 18s. 5f\d. sterling; in 1782, £4,431 7s.
4d. sterling. The yearly value of lands and houses
in 1860 was £28,121. The yearly income from
mines and iron-works, according to the New Statis-
tical Account, is supposed to exceed £160,000 ; but
the yearly value of them was returned in 1860 at
£30,008. The parish abounds in freestone. The
quarries near the Clyde are of a red-coloured stone ;
in the upper district, of a beautiful white. The value
of quarries in 1860 was £67; of mines, £11,203. The
population of the eastern district, comprising two-
thirds of the whole, consists chiefly of persons con-
nected with the coal and iron works ; while that of
the western, (except at Uddingston, which see,) con-
sists chiefly of persons engaged in agriculture and
gardening, together with residents in numerous
BOTH WELL.
187
BOTHWELL.
villas and cottages-ormSes in and around the village
of Bothwell. The road from Glasgow to Hamilton
and the south road from Glasgow to Edinburgh go
through the parish. Both the north branch and tho
south branch of the Glasgow fork of the Caledonian
railway also go through it ; and the former has a
station in it at Holytown, and the latter at Udding-
stone. The Blautyre station of the Glasgow and
Hamilton railway, opposite the village of Bothwell,
also is readily accessible.
The village of Bothwell stands on the Glasgow
and Hamilton road, 2i miles north-west of Hamil-
ton. It consists chiefly of plain houses, of one or
two stories, but maybe said to include many neigh-
bouring ornate cottages and handsome villas. It
enjoys a mild and salubrious climate, and has be-
come a favourite resort for invalids. It has a good
inn, a well-conducted academy and boarding-school,
and three places of worship, parochial, Free, and
United Presbyterian. The parochial church was
built in 1833, at a cost of £4,179; is an elegant
Gothic edifice, containing 1,150 sittings ; and has a
massive square tower 120 feet high, which forms a
striking feature in a great extent of landscape. The
choir of the previous church, built in 1398, adjoins
the tower; measures 70 feet in length and 39 in
breadth ; has a lofty arched roof covered witli large
polished flags of stone, somewhat in the form of pan-
tiles; was lighted with large side windows and a
great east one ; forms a fine specimen of the archi-
tecture of its period ; shows the Douglas arms iu the
upper part of its east window, and the same arms
quartered with the royal arms at the south corner'
of that window, within and without; shows also,
near the outer base of the tower, the name of the
master -mason in Saxon characters, " Majister
Thomas Dron;" and contains, in its east corners,
two monuments to the Earl of Forfar and his son.
This old church was founded by Archibald Earl of
Douglas, for a provost and eight prebendaries ; is
said to have been the place where he and his lady
were buried ; was the place where David, prince of
Scotland, was married to Marjory Douglas; and was
used as the parish church till 1828. The endow-
ments of it, in the Romish times, comprised the
lands of Osberington or Orbiston in the barony of
Bothwell, the lands of Netherurd in the sheriffdom
of Peebles, the tithes of Bothwell, Bertram-Shotts,
Avondale, and Stonehouse parishes, and several su-
periorities. What is now the parish of Shotts was,
prior to the Reformation, part of Bothwell parish,
and was served by a vicar under the provost of
Bothwell. The Free church at Bothwell village
was built, on the site of a previous church, in 1861,
at a cost of £3,500 ; is a handsome edifice in the
geometric style, with a spire 125 feet high; and
contains 890 sittings. The sum raised by its congre-
gation in 1865 was £903 2s. Sd. The United Presby-
terian church contains about 360 sittings. Joanna
Baillie, the poetess, was born in the manse of Both-
well, when her father, Dr. James Baillie, was minis-
ter of the parish. Pop. of the village, in 1861, 1,057
The park of Bothwell Castle extends a long way
between the public road and the Clyde. The pre-
sent mansion is an edifice of about the beginning
of the 18th century, completely modernized, and
greatly enlarged in the present century; but the old
and ruinous castle, in its vicinity, is a very ancient
noble pile, amid picturesque scenery, opposite the
ruins of the priory of Blantyre. Only part of the
castle now remains, and this occupies a space in
length 234 feet, and in breadth 99 feet over the
walls. The walls are upwards of 15 feet in thick-
ness, and in some places 60 feet high, built of a kind
of red grit or friable sandstone. In the notes to
Wordsworth's poems [Vol. v. p. 379, edn. 1839.]
occurs the following description of this noble relic
of feudal ages: " It was exceedingly delightful to
enter thus unexpectedly upon such a beautiful re-
gion. The castle stands nobly overlooking the
Clyde. When we came up to it, I was hurt to see
that flower-borders had taken place of the natural
overgrowings of the rain, the scattered stones and
wild plants. It is a large and grand pile of red free-
stone, harmonizing perfectly with the rocks of the
river, from which, no doubt, it has been hewn,
When I was a little accustomed to the unnatural-
ness of a modern garden, I could not help admiring
the excessive beauty and luxuriance of some of the
plants, particularly the purple-flowered clematis, and
a broad-leafed creeping plant without flowers, which
scrambled up the castle wall, along with the ivy,
and spread its vine like branches so lavishly that it
seemed to be in its natural situation, and one could
not help thinking that, though not self-planted
among the ruins of this country, it must somewhere
have its native abode in such places. If Bothwell
castle had not been close to the Douglas mansion,
we should have been disgusted with the possessor's
miserable conception of adorning such a venerable
rain; but it is so very near to the house, that of
necessity the pleasure-grounds must have extended
beyond it, and perhaps the neatness of a shaven lawn
and the complete desolation natural to a ruin might
have made an unpleasing contrast ; and, besides be-
ing within the precincts of the pleasure-grounds, and
so very near to the dwelling of a noble family, it has
forfeited, in some degree, its independent majesty,
and becomes a tributary to the mansion ; its solitude
being interrupted, it has no longer the command
over the mind in sending it back into past times, or
excluding the ordinary feelings which we bear about
us in daily life. We had then only to regret that
the castle and the house were so near to each other;
and it was impossible not to regret it; for the rain
presides in state over the river, far from city or
town, as if it might have a peculiar privilege to pre-
serve its memorials of past ages, and maintain its
own character for centuries to come. We sat upon
a bench under the high trees, and had beautiful views
of the different reaches of the river, above and be-
low. On the opposite bank, which is finely wooded
with elms and other trees, are the remains of a pri-
ory built upon a rock ; and rock and ruin are so
blended, that it is impossible to separate the one
from the other. Nothing can be more beautiful than
the little remnant of this holy place : elm trees (for
we were near enough to distinguish them by their
branches) grow out of the walls, and overshadow a
small, but very elegant window. It can scarcely be
conceived what a grace the castle and priory impart
to each other; and the river Clyde flows on, smooth
and unruffled below, seeming to my thoughts more
in harmony with the sober and stately images of
former times, than if it had roared over a rocky
channel, forcing its sound upon the ear. It blended
gently with the warbling of the smaller birds, and
the chattering of the larger ones, that had made their
nests in the rains. In this fortress the chief of the
English nobility were confined after the battle of
Bannockburn. If a man is to be a prisoner, he
scarcely could have a more pleasant place to solace
his captivity ; but I thought that, for close confine-
ment, I should prefer the banks of a lake, or the
sea-side. The greatest charm of a brook or river is
in the liberty to pursue it through its windings; you
can then take it in whatever mood you like ; silent
or noisy, sportive or quiet. The beauties of a brook
or river must be sought, and the pleasure is in going
in search of them ; those of a lake or of the sea
BOTHWELL.
188
BOTHWELL.
come to you of themselves. These rude warriors
cared little, perhaps, about either; and yet, if one
may judge from the writings of Chaucer, and from
the old romances, more interesting passions were
connected with natural objects in the days of chiv-
alry than now : though going in search of scenery,
as it is called, had not then been thought of. I had
previously heard nothing of Bothwell castle, at least
nothing that I remembered; therefore, perhaps, my
pleasure was greater, compared with what I received
elsewhere, than others might feel."
This castle might be regarded as no mean type
of the worthlessness of all human glory ; for it
frequently changed owners, amid great vicissitudes
o£ fortune. During the reign of Alexander II. it
belonged to Walter Olifard, justiciary of Lothian,
who died in 1242. It afterwards passed by marriage
to the Morays or Murrays. In the time of Edward I.
it was given to Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pem-
broke. Upon his forfeiture, it was given by Robert
Bruce to Andrew Murray, Lord Bothwell, who had
married Christian, sister to that King. With his
-grand-daughter, it came to Archibald the Grim, Earl
of Douglas, and continued in their family till their
forfeiture under James II. in 1455. After the for-
feiture of the family Of Douglas, the bulk of the
lordship of Bothwell was given to Lord Crichton,
son to Chancellor Crichton; and Bothwell forest,
or Bothwell moor, was obtained by Lord Hamilton,
in exchange for the lands of Kingswell. Crichton was
forfeited in 1485, for joining with Alexander, Duke
of Albany against James III. It was then given by
James III. to Lord Monipenny, but afterwards re-
sumed, as having been gifted by the King in his
minority, and bestowed on John Ramsay, who en-
joyed it till 1488, when the lordship of Crichton
was gifted by James IV. to Adam Hepburn, —
"he who died
On Flodden, by his sovereign's side."
It continued in this line till November, 1567, when
James, Earl of Bothwell, was forfeited for the mur-
der of Darnley. Thereafter it was given to Francis
Stewart, son of John, Abbot of Kelso, who was
natural son to James V. ; and on his forfeiture his
estate was gifted to the lairds of Buccleugh and
Roxburgh, from whom the Marquis of Hamilton ac-
quired all the superiority and patronage of that lord-
ship. The castle of Bothwell, with a third of the
lordship, was disponed by Hepburn, Earl of Both-
well, to the Earl of Angus, in exchange for the lord-
ship of Liddisdale. Angus, and Archibald his son,
in 1630, feued off their part of the lordship to the
particular tenants and possessors thereof, reserving
the castle and mains of Bothwell. It was given off
as a patrimonial portion with the Earl of Forfar, but
again returned to the family of Douglas on the death
of Archibald, Earl of Forfar, who died at Stirling of
wounds received at Sherriffmuir, in 1715. The
Douglas family enlarged and improved the castle,
and their arms are found in different places of the
wall. On the death of Lord James Douglas in 1859,
the castle, with the other property of the family,
came into the possession of the Countess of Home.
Bothwell bridge, which takes the Glasgow and
Hamilton highway across the Clyde, about J of a
mile south of Bothwell village, was the scene of an
engagement, on the 22d of June, 1679, between the
Covenanters, and the king's army commanded by
the Duke of Monmouth, assisted by Claverhouse and
Dalzell. The King's army advanced by the north
or Bothwell side. The Covenanters amounted to
4,000 ; and the bridge was vigorously defended for a
time by Hackston of Rathillet; but the main body
divided among themselves, and madly employing
the precious moments while the King's troops were
carrying the bridge in cashiering their officers, were
soon thrown into confusion; 400 were killed, chiefly
in the pursuit, and 1,200 taken prisoners. The
aspect of the bridge and scenery in the immediate
vicinity has been entirely changed within these few
years. Formerly the bridge, about 120 feet in
length, rose with an acclivity of about 20 feet, and
was only 12 feet in breadth, fortified with a gate-
way near the south-east or Hamilton end. The
gateway and gate have been long removed ; and in
1826, 22 feet were added to the original breadth of
the bridge, by a supplemental building on the upper
side, while the hollowon the south bank was filled
up. About half a mile below the old bridge is a
very beautiful new suspension bridge.
Bothwell-haugh, about a mile above the bridge,
was formerly the property of James Hamilton of
Bothwell-haugh, who shot the Earl of Murray, the
Regent of Scotland, at Linlithgow in 1569. See Lin-
lithgow. About a quarter of a mile east of this,
there is a bridge over the South Calder which is
thought to be of Roman construction ; it is a single
arch of 20 feet span, high, narrow, and without para-
pets. The Roman road called Watling Street — one
of the four great Roman roads in Britain — leading to
it from the east, through Dalziel parish, was in a state
of considerable preservation towards the end of last
century, but is now scarce discernible. — A mile above
this, upon the banks of the same water, there is a
quarry of the finest millstones in the west of Scotland.
Three miles higher, upon the north bank of the
Calder, in the middle of the steep rock upon which
the house of Cleland stands, is a large natural cove,
which has been partly improved by art, capable of
holding 40 or 50 men, and of difficult access. The
entry was secured by a door and an iron gate fixed
in the solid rock. The fire-place, and part of the
chimney and floor, still remain. The tradition is,
that it was used as a place of concealment in the
troublesome times of the country, as far back as
the gallant patriot Sir William Wallace, — perhaps
by the hero himself, and his trusty band ; also dur-
ing the violent feuds between the house of Cleland
and Lauchope; and especially in the convulsions of
this country under the Charleses.
The house of Lauchope was the seat of a very
ancient family, the mother-family of the Muirheads.
It is an old tower-house, with walls of a prodigious
thickness.— Woodhall estate, near Holytown, and
now in the hands of a Joint Stock Company, has
a fine mansion.— The house of Bothwell, now a seat
of the Earl of Home, a handsome edifice consist-
ing of a centre and two wings, stands a little east
from the old castle, and commands a charming view
of the banks, the river, the ruins of the old castle
of Bothwell, and the adjacent country. The banks
of the river have been improved with pleasure- walks,
rustic huts, and shrubbery. The park is open to the
public as a promenade on two days of every week.
One of the finest views in Scotland is commanded
from the east brow of the table-land, upon which the
village of Bothwell stands. This seems to be the
great promontory which Nature has erected from
which to contemplate the beauties of the Vale of
Clyde; for that river, after it quits this parish, loses
its noble wooded banks, and generally falls into a
flatness on both sides. On the right hand, and on
the south side of the river, the residence of the Duke
of Hamilton, called the Palace, Chatelherault, and
the town of Hamilton, appear just under the eye,
amidst extensive pleasure-grounds. A little above
this, the vale is contracted, and the banks of the
river become wide and deep, with a gradual decli-
vity on both sides, occupied by gentlemen's seats,
BOTRIPHNIE.
189
BOURTIE.
and highly cultivated and embellished. Numerous
orchards are here interspersed through the groves,
which give a great part of the vale an Italian as-
pect, or rather
" Tho bloom of blowing Eden fair."
In autumn they are richly loaded with fruits, and
this district may be called the Garden of Scotland.
Beautiful meadows covered with flocks, and rich
fields of com, adorn the holms and plains; while
villa succeeds villa, as far as the eye can reach, till
the prospect terminates upon Tintock, at the dis-
tance of 24 miles.
The beauties of Bothwell banks were celebrated
in ancient song, of which the following incident is a
■striking proof: "So fell it out of late years," says
Verstegan, in his Restitution of Decayed Intelli-
gence, " that an English gentleman, travelling in
Palestine, not far from Jerusalem, as he passed
through a country town, he heard by chance a wo-
man sitting at the door, dandling her child, to sing,
*' Bothwell bank, thou bloomest fair."
The gentleman hereat exceedingly wondered, and
forthwith in English saluted the woman, who joy-
fully answered him, and said, She was right glad
there to see a gentleman of our isle; and told him,
that she was a Scotch woman, and came first from
Scotland to Venice, and from Venice thither; where
her fortune was to be the wife of an officer under
the Turk, who being at that instant absent, and veiy
soon to return, she entreated the gentleman to stay
there until his return ; the which he did ; and she,
for country sake, to show herself more kind and
bountiful unto him, told her husband at his home-
coming, that the gentleman was her kinsman ;
whereupon her husband entertained him very kindly,
and at his departure gave him divers things of good
value." Population of the parish of Bothwell in
1831, 5,545-; in 1861, 17,903. Houses, 2,492. As-
sessed property in I860, £59,067.
This parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton, and
svnod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Duke of
Hamilton. Stipend, £282 14s. 8d.; glebe, £36. Un-
appropriated teinds, £491 12s. lid. There are three
parochial schools, at Bothwell, Holytown, and New-
arthill ; and the salaries attached to them are £45,
£15, and £20. A quoad sacra parish church, for-
merly a chapel of ease, is at Holytown, and contains
830 sittings. Free churches are at Holytown and
Chapelhall; and the sums raised in them in 1865
were £119 8s., and £205 6s. 3d. United Presby-
terian churches are at Bellshill, Newarthill, and
Uddingstone, and have severally 812, 600, and 450
sittings. Congregational ehapels are at Bellshill
and Newarthill, and have an attendance of about
200 and 50. A large school is in Uddingstone, con-
nected with the Free ehurch of Bothwell; other
schools are elsewhere, in connexion with other
churches ; and large educational institutions are
connected with several of the public works.
BOTRIPHNIE, a parish, containing a post-office
station of its own name, in the centre of Banffshire.
It is situated in the narrow part of the county,
and extends quite across it, being bounded on the
east by Aberdeenshire, on the north-west by Moray-
shire, and on other sides by the parishes of Keith,
Boharm, and Mortlach. Its length northward is
about 4 j miles; and its breadth is about 3 miles.
The church is situated about 6 miles south-west of
Keith. The greater part of the parish consists of
one beautiful strath, situated between two hiBs to
the north and south with the small river of Isla,
which takes its rise in the west part of the parish
towards Mortlach, and runs through the middle of it.
The banks of this stream are beautifully adorned
with alder and birch trees; and several small rills,
which fall into it from the hills on each side, are
clothed in the same manner. The fields on the
north side of the parish have a good exposure, and
are of considerable extent, stretching from the river
to the top of the hill ; and there is hardly a break
in them, except where they are intersected by a few
small rills and clumps of birch and alder. About
22 parts in 45 of the whole parochial area are either
regularly or occasionally in tillage, about 16 are
either pastoral or waste, and about 7 are under wood.
The chief landowner is Admiral Duff of Drumniuir.
The value of assessed property in 1843 was £2,619
lis. 5d.; in 1860, £3,154. Population in 1831, 721.
in 1861, 867. Houses, 137.
This parish is in the presbytery of Strathbogie,
and synod of Moray. Patron, the Earl of Fife.
Stipend, £ 178 15s. 5d. ; glebe, £8 1 5s. Unappropriated
teinds, £254 4s. 2d. Schoolmaster's salary, £45, with
about £7 fees. The parish church was built in 1820.
There is a Free church : attendance, 200 ; yearly
sum raised in 1865, £61 6s. 2d. There are two
private schools. A fair iB held at Botriphnie on the
15th of February, old style.
BOURIEFAD. See Bowhiefauld.
BOURTIE, a parish in the Garioch district of
Aderdeenshire, bounded by the parishes of Daviot,
Old Meldrum, Tarves, Udny, Keithhall, and Chapel of
Garioch. Its post-town is Old Meldrum, situated a
short distance to the north. The length of the
parish eastward is 5 miles; and the average breadth
is nearly 2 miles. Two hills of about 600 feet in
height above sea-level, the northern one called the
hill of Barra and the other the hill of Lawhillside,
occupy the central part of the parish, at the distance
of about a mile from each other; and they extend
toward the east, and there converge in what is
called the hill of Kingoody on the eastern border.
The general drainage of the parish is southward, by
a tributary of the Urie, to a point about 2 miles_ or
so above Inverury. Agriculture made very pleasing
advances during the 25 years ending inl866; near-
ly 1,000 acres of waste land were reclaimed ; and
the annual value of produce was about doubled.
There are four landowners, — all non-resident. The
amount of assessed property in 1843 was £3,150 ; in
1860, £3,761. In 1744, there were only two carts
within this parish, and only two houses which
bad stone chimneys, the bouse of Barra and the
manse. On the summit of the hill of Barra, there
are the distinct remains of a camp of a circular
form, and surrounded with three ditches. It is
called the Cummins' camp. The Cummins were a
bold and numerous race, who are said to have been
proprietors of the greater part of the Buchan country,
and disaffected to King Robert Bruce. After the
battle near Inverury, in which the King's arms were
victorious, he marched his troops hither, stormed
this camp, and put the Cummins who had rallied
here to flight. It is probable, however, that this
camp had been originally formed by the Danes, and
that the Cummins had only taken possession of it
as an advantageous post. In the churchyard there
is a rough stone cut out into a coarse statue of a
man. The traditional report is that it was executed
in memory of the celebrated Thomas de Longueville,
the companion of Wallace, who was killed in storm-
ing the camp, and is buried here. Population in
1831, 472; in 1861, 547. Houses, 85.— This parish
is in the presbytery of Garioch, and synod of Aber-
deen. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £235 15s.;
glebe, £14. Schoolmaster's salary, £45, with £9
from a bequest, and £11 fees. The church was built
in 1806, and contains about 300 sittings.
BOUSTA.
190
BOWER.
BOUSTA, a village in the parish of Dunrossness,
Shetland.
BOWBEAT, one of the Moorfoot hills, 2,096 feet
higher than sea-level, in the parish of Temple,
Edinburghshire.
BOWDEN, a parish, containing a post-office
village of its own name, and also the village of
Midlem, in the north-west of Eoxhurghshire. It is
bounded by the parishes of Melrose, St. Boswell's,
Ancrum, Lilliesleaf, Selkirk, and Galashiels. Its
greatest length southward is 6 miles, and its breadth
is about 4£ miles. Ale Water flows along the east-
em half of the southern boundary. The greater
part of the parochial surface consists of a series of
ridges and hollows extending parallel to one
another, with indigenous brooks flowing to the east.
But the northern part is occupied by about one half
of the entire mass of the Eildon hills. These hills
present three conical summits springing from one
broad and elevated base. Sir John Leslie estimated
their altitude at 1,364 feet above sea-level. Their
situation in a flat country, more than their height,
gives them an imposing aspect, and they are seen at
a great distance. Some parts of them also being
covered with a kind of red stone, without a pile of
grass, present a singular and striking appearance.
The rock is chiefly felspar and felspar porphyry.
The highest peak is thickly covered with a little
shrubby plant, the vaccinium myrtillus. See Eildon
Hills. About three-fourths of the parish have been
at one time or another under the plough; the other
fourth consists of bog, moss, and plantations of fir
and forest-trees. The most extensive plantation
occupies the southern base of the Eildons. The real
rent of the parish, in 1794, amounted to £2,300;
and in 1847 to £5,420. The most extensive land-
owner is the Duke of Roxburgh; but there are
about 12 other considerable landowners, and about
50 small ones. The road from Hawick to Melrose
and that from Kelso to Selkirk intersect each other
within the parish ; and the Edinburgh and Hawick
railway impinges on the eastern border, and is readily
accessible at the neighbouring stations of Newtown
and Belses. The remains of a military road, with
circular stations or camps, supposed to be Roman,
can be traced running nearly north through the
centre and broadest part of this parish, about a mile
to the westward of the church, from Beaulieu in the
parish of Lilliesleaf, to Caldshiels in the parish of
Galashiels. There was, towards the end of last
century, a strong fortification of its kind, at Holy-
dean or Haliedean, once a residence of the family
of Roxburgh. The court-yard, containing about
three-fourths of an acre, was surrounded by strong
stone and lime walls, 4 feet thick, and 16 feet high,
with slanting holes, about 36 feet from each other,
from which an arrow or a musket could have been
pointed in different directions. Upon an arched
gateway in the front there was a strong iron gate.
Within the court stood two strong towers, the one
of three, the other of five stories, and each consisting
of eight or ten lodgeable rooms, besides porters'
lodges, servants' hall, vaulted cellars, bakehouses,
&c. This building was mostly pulled down, merely
for the sake of getting the stones in it to build a
large farm-house and appurtenances at the distance
of 3 miles, though the difficulty of separating these
stones from the lime made them a dear purchase.
One of the vaults still remains. One stone, pre-
served from the ruins, and now a lintel to the door
of the farm-house at Holydean, has in the middle
an unicorn's head and three stars, with this in-
scription on either side:— "Feer God. Flee from
Bin: mak to the lyfe everlasting to the end. Dem
Isbel Ker 1530.: About 140 yards from this -house,
on the top of a precipice hanging over a deep dell
called Ringan's dean, there had been a chapel or
place of worship, and a burying-ground, as appears
from the number of grave-stones, and pieces of hu-
man bones, whioh have been dug up in it from
time to time. Hence probably has arisen the name
Holydean or Haliedean. The greatest curiosity, per-
haps, of its kind in Britain, is a stone dike without
lime, which encloses about 500 acres of this farm,
and has stood more than 300 years, yet is still a
tolerable fence. It had at first been 6 or 7 feet
high, with capstones. In an old tack, this enclosure
is called, " The great deer park of Haliedean." The
chief residences in the parish are Linthill, Kippilaw,
and Cavers-Carr. The village of Bowden stands on
the Hawick and Melrose road, 2J miles west of
Lessudden, and 3 south of Melrose. An ancient
cross stands in its centre ; and some remains may
be observed of one or two old square towers, of the
kind which were common in the times of the Border
raids, with under apartment for cattle and upper
apartments for the family. Population of the village
in 1851, 253. Population of the parish in 1831,
1,010; in 1861, 864. Houses, 179. Assessed pro-
perty in 1864, £7,544.
This parish is in the presbytery of Selkirk, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Duke
of Roxburgh. Stipend, £211 lis. 7d.; glebe, £15.
Unappropriated teinds, £44 4s. 6d. There are two
parochial schools, — one at Bowden, the other at
Midlem. The salary of one of the masters is £50;
that of the other is only £15; and each has about £20
of fees. The parish church is an old building with
380 sittings. A vault adjoining it is the burying-
place of the ducal family of Roxburgh. The coffins
— 21 in number — are above ground; and some of
them, by the dates upon them, appear to have stood
upwards of 200 years, and are still entire. There
is a Free church at Bowden ; and the yearly sum
raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £148 2s. 2d.
There is an Original Secession church at Midlem,
with an attendance of 180. There is a parochial
library.
BOWER, a parish, containing a post-office station
of its own name, about 1 1 miles north-west of Wick,
in Caithness-shire. It is bounded by the parishes
of Olrick, Dunnet, Cannisbay, Wick, Watten, Hal-
kirk, and Thurso. The name — as of most places
in this country — seems to be derived from the Dan-
ish language, and is said to denote a valley, or what
in Scotch is called a carse. The parish is 7 miles in
length, and 3 in breadth. On a ridge of rising
ground, which almost equally divides the parish,
betwixt Bower tower and Brabster, is a large stone
called Stone Lude or Lutt, perhaps from Liotus,
mentioned by Torfseus, who is said to have resided
in this neighbourhood. The cairn of Heather Cow
seems to be a monument of Druidical antiquity. It
is situated about a mile south of the kirk, from
which the ground rises by a gradual ascent, till it
terminates in a round top. On this eminence—
which is the highest ground in the parish — there is
a circular building of stones, about 9 feet in dia-
meter, and 4 or 5 feet high, ascending by 2 or 3
steps, like a stair, on one side. From it, in a clear
day, we have a view of the general outlines of the
country, of the hills which separate Sutherland and
Caithness, the Strathnaver hills, part of the North
sea and Pentland frith, some of the Orkney isles,
and the entrance into the Moray frith at Riese bay.
Great agricultural improvements have in recent
years been made in this parish; and a large extent
of waste land has been reclaimed. The valued rent
is £2,761 16s. Scots; and the real rent in 1793 was
about £1,500, but has become about five times
BOWLAND-BRIDGE.
191
BOYNDLE.
tliat sum. A number of years ago there were found
in a moss on the estate of Tliura, the hones of some
animals of tho ox species, of a size now unparalleled
in this county. The remains were three feet under
the surface, and were in a high state of preservation.
Two heads were found locked together by the horns,
as if the animals hod killed each other. The horns
form a graceful curve, hut if distended, measure 5
feet 10 inches, from tip to tip; breadth of skull
across the eyes, 1 foot 6 inches; one of the ribs
measures 3J inches at the broadest part, and exceeds
3 feet by little more than an inch in length; the
largest joint of the leg-bone measures 9 inches in
circumference, but the boue itself is comparatively
short. The parish is traversed north-westward
through the centre by the road from Wick to
Thurso. Population in 1831, 1,615; in 1861, 1,746.
Houses, 365. Assessed property in 1843, £4,300
4s. 5d.; in 1S60, £7,542.
This parish is in the presbytery of Caithness, and
synod of Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, Sir
James Colquhoun, Baronet. Stipend, £191 4s. 6d.,
witli a manse and glebe. Unappropriated teinds,
£132 2s. Schoolmaster's salary is now £50, with
about £14 fees. The parish church was built about
the middle of the 17th century, and contains 441
sittings. There is a Free church: attendance, from
400 to 500; yearly sum raised in 1S65, £156 13s.
lOd. There are three private schools.
BOWEKHOPE. See Mary's (St.) Loch.
BOWHILL. See Selkirk.
BO WHOUSE, a station on the Monkland railway,
6 miles south-west of Borrowstownness.
BOWLAND-BRIDGE. a station on the Edin-
burgh and Hawick railway, on Gala Water, 3 miles
south-south-east of Stow. The estate of Bowland
lies around, and has a fine mansion.
BOWLING, or Bowling Bay, a locality in the
parish of Old Kilpatrick, Dumbartonshire. It in-
cludes a narrow strip of level ground along the
Clyde, overhung by the picturesque acclivities of
the Kilpatrick hills ; is situated at the western end
of the Forth and Clyde canal, on the road from Dum-
barton to Glasgow, and on the Dumbartonshire rail-
way, 3i miles west-south-west of Dumbarton; com-
prises the terminal lock of the canal, a long range
of wooden wharf, two landing-places for steamers,
a railway station, a ship-building yard, a large em-
banked pool for emherthing steamers during winter,
a sort of chain of villages, and a good hotel, called
Frisky Hall ; extends altogether about half-a-mile ;
and, together with numerous neat residences on the
neighbouring slopes, has a population of about 600.
The surrounding scenery, up the hills, across to
Erskine, and down the Clyde, shows a rich variety
of wood and water, rock and brae, close beauty and
fine perspective. Glenarbick ravine, looking like a
broad deep rent down the face of the hills, appears
to have been formed by the vertical stroke of an
earthquake. Chapelhill, a little to the east, contests
with Dunglass the claim of being the site of the
western terminal forts of Antoninus' Wall, and has
yielded many Roman relics, including two monu-
mental tablets now in the Hunterian museum at
Glasgow.
BOWMAN, a post-office station subordinate to
Bowmore in the island of Islay.
BOWMONT (The), a stream which rises in the
Cocklaw, and flows in an easterly direction through
the parish ofYetholm into Northumberlandshire,
where it joins the Glen near Kirk-Newton, by which
its waters are conveyed to the Till, a tributary of
the Tweed. It has a rapid current, and is subject
to high floods. The Bowmont and the Glen afford
fine trouting.
BOWMORE, a small sea-port and post-town in
the parish of Kilarrow and island of Islay. It
stands on the east side of Lochindaal, 3 miles south-
west of Bridgend, 11 south-south-west of Port As-
kaig, and 13 north of the Mull of Islay. It was
founded in 1768; and though a good deal checked
by the subsequent erection of Port Charlotte and
Port Eleanor on the opposite side of the bay, it has
had considerable prosperity, and is the capital of
the island. It was laid out upon a regular plan,
but has been greatly disfigured by the medley char-
acter of the private houses which line its streets, —
every builder having been allowed to please himself
as to the material, the shape, and the size of his
structures. The quay is strong and good; and
vessels have excellent anchorage in the harbour, but
are liable to be swept by north-west winds. A
principal and wide street begins at the quay, ascends
a brae, and terminates at the summit by the parish
church, which is a neat circular building, sur
rnounted by a spire. Another principal street as-
cends the brae in a transverse direction, crossing
the former street at right angles, and terminating
by the school-house. A third street, of very pool
appearance, and popularly called the Beggar Row,
goes parallel to the second. The hill tops above these
streets command a charming view of all Lochindaal,
with Islay House, the Ruins, and a great extent of the
island. Bowmore has some good shops, a large dis-
tillery, and considerable trade. It has also a Free
church, whose receipts in 1865 were £96 12s. 10Ad.
Population in 1841, 1,274; in 1861, 985.
BOWRIEFAULD, a village in the parish of
Dunnichen, Forfarshire. Population, 109.
BOYKILL. See Westerkirk.
BOYNDIE, a parish, containing the fishing-vil-
lage of Whitehills, on the coast of Banffshire. It
is bounded on the north by the Moray frith, and on
the other sides by the parishes of Banff, Marnoch,
Ordiquill, and Fordyce. Its coast-line extends on
the east to within 1J mile of Banff, and on the west
to within 2 miles of Portsoy, and the former of these
places is the post-town. The extreme length of the
parish northward is about 7 miles; and the extreme
breadth is nearly 3 miles. The bum of Boyndie,
which has altogether a ran of about 6 miles, flows
along the greater part of the eastern boundary to
the sea. The burn of Boyne, which comes in from
Fordyce, and has altogether a run of about 8 miles,
flows along the whole of the western boundary.
The coast is chiefly rocky, but has some sandy
beach ; the valley of the Boyndie is a fine low agri-
cultural tract; and the rest of the parochial surface
is principally flat, low table-land. About 10 parts
in 100 of the whole parish are moss or pasture
lands, about 3 are under wood, and all the rest
are cultivated. The Earl of Seafield is the chief
landowner. The total yearly value of raw produce
was estimated in 1842 at £23,800. The fisheries
alone, which are carried on chiefly at Whitehills,
were estimated at £3,000. Assessed property in
1865, £6,198 0s. lOd. A bleachfield and a thread
factory were formerly in operation, but have been
abandoned. There are now a brickfield, a saw-mill,
a wool-carding mill, and three meal-mills. Here
also is the Banffshire district lunatic asylum, a hand-
some edifice opened in 1865, and containing 90 beds.
The parish is traversed by the Banffshire railway,
and by the road from Banff to Portsoy. A medicinal
spring called the Red well in this parish, and an-
other at Tarlair in the parish of Gamrie, are said by
Souter, in his View of the Agriculture of Banff-
shire, to be so highly valued " that the farm ser-
vants, at the distance of from 30 to 40 miles, make
it a part of the agreement with their masters, that
BOYSACK.
192
BRAE.
they shall be allowed two weeks in the month of July
or August to attend these wells." Boyne castle is
romantically situated on a high perpendicular rock,
on the south side of a deep gloomy ravine through
which the burn of Boyndie flows ; the banks of the
stream being here wooded quite to the water's edge.
This was the baronial castle of the district called
the Boyne, and anciently the residence of the noble
family of Ogilvie, ancestors of the Earl of Seafield.
It was deserted in the reign of Queen Anne, and is
now quite a ruin. Grose has preserved two views
of it. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,501; in
1861, 1,711. Houses, 351.
This parish is in the synod of Aberdeen, and pres-
bytery of Fordyce. Patron, the Earl of Seafield.
Stipend, £204 19s. 3d.; glebe, £7. Unappropriated
teinds, £222 8s. Id. Schoolmaster's salary now is
£75, with £23 fees, and a share of the Dick bequest.
The parish church was built in 1773, and contains
600 sittings. There is a Free church : attendance,
from 160 to 190 ; yearly sum raised in 1865, £96 9s.
5d. There are three iron-parochial schools, — two of
which are dame schools. There is also a paro-
chial library. The present parishes of Boyndie and
Banff formerly constituted only one parish, but were
disjoined about the year 1634.
BOYNE. See Banff, Banffshire, and Boyndie.
BOYSACK (Chapelton of), a hamlet in the
parish of Inverkeillor, Forfarshire. Population in
1851, 52.
BRAAL-CASTLE. See Halkirk.
BRAAN (The). See Bean (The).
BRABSTER. See Canisbay.
BRACADALE, a parish, containing the post-
office stations of Bracadale and Struan, in the island
of Skye. It is bounded on the south and south-west
by the sea, and on other sides by the parishes of
Diminish, Snizort, Portree, and Strath. Its length
is about 20 miles, and its extreme breadth is about
8 miles. It is intersected by arms of the sea in dif-
ferent directions. The surface, in general, is hilly,
with some level spots adjacent to the sea. The soil
in some parts is fertile. There are no considerable
rivers, and none that are navigable; though there
are many rapid waters, which are frequently attended
with inconvenience and even danger to people tra-
velling from one part of the parish to another. The
shore is fiat in some places, but for the most part
high and rocky. The principal bays or harbours
are Loch-Bracadale, a good and safe harbour; Loch-
Harport, a considerable branch of Loch-Bracadale,
where vessels may ride with safety; and Loch-
Eynort, 7 miles south of Loch-Bracadale, where
vessels sometimes resort. To the south of Eynort,
at the distance of 3 miles, is Loch-Brettle, an open
bay, and not a safe harbour; and to the east of this,
at the distance of 4 miles, is the sublime inlet of
Loch Scavig. See Scavig (Loch). The islands in
this parish are Soay, which in 1861 had 129 inhabi-
tants, Vuiay, which in 1861 had 6 inhabitants, and
Haversay and Oronsay, which have no inhabitants,
but are only pendicles to the different farms on the
shore opposite to them, and afford pasture for cattle
during part of the summer and winter seasons. There
are no remarkable mountains within the greater part
of the parish ; but the unique, curious, darkly sub-
lime groups of the Cuchullin mountains form the
chief feature of the southern district and of the
boundary with Strath. See Skye and Corriskin
Loch. The total number of arable acres in the par-
ish is 4,878, and of acres of pasture and hill-grazing
68,311. Macleod of Macleod is the sole landowner.
There is a distillery in the parish. Population in
1831,1,769; in 1861, 1,335. Houses, 262. Assessed
property in 1843, £3,920 15s.; in 1860, £4,504.
This parish is in the presbytery of Skye and sy-
nod of Glenelg. Patron, Macleod of Macleod. Sti-
pend, £158 6s. 8d.; glebe, £15. Schoolmaster's
salary, £35. The parish church was built in 1831,
and contains 516 sittings. A missionary, supported
on the Royal Bounty, ministers in the parish. There
is a Free church, with an attendance of 250; and
the yearly sum raised in connexion with it in 1865
was £44 13s. 7Jd. There are five non-parochial
schools, — one of them a Gaelic school. The natives
of Skye, and most of all, those of Bracadale have been
celebrated for the second sight. " The traveller,"
says Lord Teignmouth, " naturally inquires in Bra-
cadale for traces of the second sight, and may be
disappointed when he is informed here, as in other
parts of Scotland, in general terms, qualified not a
little when investigated, that all the ancient super-
stitions of the country have vanished. Now this
statement cannot be admitted. Serious, imagina-
tive, indolent, solitary in the ordinary condition of
their lot, though social in disposition, familiar with
nature in all the changing aspects with which
northern seasons invest it, and with dangers by
flood or fell, the natives of these regions are pecu-
liarly susceptible of religious impressions. And un-
happily, during many ages, ignorant, or instructed
only in error, they blended with the time faith which
they had received from the missionaries of the gos-
pel, all the absurd poetical fictions derived from the
stock from which they sprang, from Scandinavian
invaders, from monks, or the innumerable horde of
impostors, bards, minstrels, seers, and dealers in
second sight, -who preyed upon their credulity.
Among this number must be included the criminals
of all classes and conditions, to be found in all
communities, but more especially in those in which,
as in the ancient Highland clanish associations, cer-
tain convenient customs had superseded moral and
legal obligation. These persons naturally encour-
aged a popular creed which furnished a ready ex-
planation of all the mischief, whether theft, plunder-
ing of cattle, parentage, or kidnapping of children,
which was constantly perpetrated, by the sugges-
tion of demoniacal agency; in short, by multiplying
into a diversity of mischievous beings, ready to do
an ill-turn to any one, that unknown but right well-
known personage — the No-man of Homer, the No-
body of domestic life."
BRACHLA. See Petty.
BRACK (Loch). See Balmaclei.lan.
BRACKLIN, a series of short falls and dark deep
linns, formed by the western branch of the Keltie
burn in the parish of Callander, Perthshire; about
1J mile to the north-east of the village. The Keltie
rises at the base of Stuicachroin, flows through a
wild glen between Brackland and Auchinlaich, and
falls into the Teith about 1J mile below Callander.
The falls are viewed to great advantage from a nar-
row alpine bridge, which hangs suspended at the
height of 50 feet above the white foaming pool — as
Brac-lynn literally signifies — into which the Keltie
here precipitates itself over disjointed masses of rock,
with a thundering incessant roar. The tourist
should also note here the magnificent view from the
corner of the larch wood, east of Callander, which
he passes on his way from the village to the falls.
In September 1844, a young man and a young wo-
man, in a momentary frolic at the end of the bridge
over Bracklin, fell into the yawning abyss.
BRACKNESS. See Stromness.
BRACO. See Ardoch.
BRADEN (Loch). See Straiton.
BRADWOOD. See Braidwood.
BRAE, a post-office station, subordinate to l<«r-
wick in Shetland.
BRAE.
193
BRAEMAR.
BEAK, a district of the parish of Kilmonivaig,
Inverness-shire.
BEAE-AMAT, a district of the parish of Kincar-
dine belonging to Cromartyshire, hut surrounded
by Koss-shire. It is situated on the east bank of
the Carroii.
BEAE-DTJNSTAN, a ridge of low hill in the par-
ish of Eccles, Berwickshire.
BEAEHEAD, a village in the parish of Carn-
wath, 3J miles south of Wilsontown, Lanarkshire.
Here is an United Presbyterian church, with 500
sittings. Population, 350.
BEAEMAK, a district in the extreme south-west
of Aberdeenshire. It was anciently a parish, but
has for centuries, though at what precise date is not
known, been united to Cratkie. It was originally
called the parish of St, Andrews ; it afterwards got
the name of Ceann-an-drochaid, signifying Bridge-
head ; and, about the end of the reign of Mary , when
the parts of it around Castletown became the pro-
perty of the Earl of Mar, it took the name of Brae-
mar. It adjoins its own county only on the east,
and is surrounded on other sides by the counties of
Perth, Inverness, and Banff. Its boundaries with
these counties are all water-sheds of veiy lofty
mountains, — the central group of the Grampians,
adjacent to Cairngorm, and round the sources of
the Dee. Its whole area is simply the alpine basin
of the young Dee, cut into sections by the glens of
that river's earliest affluents. It can be entered
by wheeled carnages only by two roads, — the one
from the east up the Dee, and the other from the
south by the Spital of Glenshee ; nor can it be en-
tered even on foot with moderate ease by any other
road, except one from the west up Glentilt.
The scenery of this district was well described
in 1801 by Dr. Stoddart, who approached it on foot
from the Inverness side up the difficult route of
Glen-Fishie. " After reaching the heights," says
he, " we crossed a dreary moor, surrounded by the
tops of some of the highest mountains in Scotland,
from Cairngorm, on the left, to Scarscoch, on the
right. In this moor are the streams of the Fishie
and the Giouly, flowing different ways: by descend-
ing the latter, we soon reached the glen of the Dee.
This river, receiving several tributary brooks, be-
comes of considerable importance, and is bordered
by the fir plantations of Mar lodge, a hunting-seat
of the Earl of Fife. The vale now opened with
great majesty, presenting a noble assemblage of
mountain forms, which added to the windings of the
river, formed a succession of the most delightful
landscapes, as we passed Mar lodge, the Castletown
of Braemar, and at length reached Invercauld, the
seat of Farquharson, Esq. No place, that I
have seen in Scotland, is more characteristically
adapted to the residence of a Highland chieftain
than Invercauld; and few are more judiciously pre-
served in an appropriate state of decoration. The
house is a large and irregular building, more suit-
able to such a situation than if its architecture were
formally scientific. It stands on a rising ground,
not far removed from the bank of the Dee, which
glides silently and majestically through the valley.
All around are vast birch woods, and firs, which
Mr. Farquharson has planted in incredible numbers.
The mountain, which rises behind the house, is
Craig Leik: those which stretch in front, like a
gigantic amphitheatre, are perhaps among the lofti-
est in Britain; for their height has never been as-
certained. The large mass, to the northward of
east, is topped by the peak of Loch-na-Gar : below
these is the opening of Balloch Buy, an immense
fir wood, among whose shades the fall of Garwal
glitters to the sun. Stretching round to the south
are the wild cliffs and precipices of Craig Cluny,
Scailloch-na-Moustard, and Craig Caonich; west-
ward, about a mile and a half distant, are the castle
and town of Braemar, backed by Craig Clerich; and
further up, the vale is shut in by the vast mountain
screens folding before each other, whilst above them
peer the summits of Ben-y-Bourd, Ben-Vrotachan,
&c. Few proprietors have done more, or with more
judgment, toward the improvement of their estates,
both in appearance and in product, than Mr. Far-
quharson. Of the ancient royal forest of Mar he
keeps a great proportion in its natural state, as does
the Earl of Fife ; and on both properties the deer are
cherished with great care. There are many natural
woods, but the extent of plantation is still greater,
Mr. Farquharson himself, in the course of a long
possession, having planted no less than sixteen mil-
lions of fir, and two millions of larch. At Inver-
cauld, as in Glenmore, the mountains seem to be
divided by a dark sea of firs, whose uniformity of
hue and appearance affords inexpressible solemnity
to the scene, and carries back the mind to those
primeval ages, when the axe had not yet invaded
the boundless regions of the forest. But the most
remarkable of Mr. Farquharson's improvements are
the roads, which he has carried, in a variety of
directions, through his estate, for purposes both of
utility and of pleasure. They are in all consider-
ably more than twenty miles ; they are excellently
constructed, and their level so well kept, that you
reach, by a regular progress, the very tops of the
mountains, .ere you are well aware of having as-
cended. Approaching from Invercauld, the first
object which strikes you, is the bridge of C'oich, an
impetuous stream, which forms a cataract, among
wild broken rocks, as it hastens to join the Dee.
About a mile to the westward stands Mar lodge, a
small pile, but rendered considerable in appearance,
by the extension of false wings, connecting it with
the offices. It is seated on a flat, very little above the
level of the river, and backed by a steep mountain,
planted nearly to the top with firs. In its front is
a spacious lawn, surrounded with a variety of trees,
birch, alder, willow, &c. The Dee is here crossed
by a long wooden bridge, with stone arches. About
a mile higher up, is another bridge, at the Linn of
Dee, where that river forms a fall, after being con-
fined for above sixty yards, between two rocks, a
very few feet distant from each other. Crossing the
river, I ascended Craig Neagh, a rocky eminence,
where — as in many other commanding spots — Lord
Fife has built a rude prospect-house. Here you ob-
tain the best view of Mar lodge, with the long
bridge, and the upper part of the glen, terminated
by the summits of Caim Toul, Glashan Mor, and
Ben-y-Vrotan. Some of these prospect-houses are
decorated with spires, and other ornaments, rather
unsuitable to the magnificence of the natural ob-
jects by which they are surrounded. They serve,
indeed, to diversify the landscape; but where va-
riety is only to be attained by the sacrifice of sub-
limity, a correct taste will deem the purchase too
great. One of the most pleasing scenes belonging
to Mar lodge, is a small hollow, on this side of the
river, called Corriemulzie. Wandering some time
between lofty, over-arching rocks, which enclose
the course of a brook, you at length reach its fall.
The hanging wood, the shrubs and weeds, the na-
tural, or apparently natural steps in the rock, the
rude seat from which you view it, and the arch
which supports the road above, all together render
this a most picturesque retreat." Other and grander
cataracts gem the deep, dark ravines of Braemar;
and the general features of all — wood and gloom and
precipice — may be caught from the following linen
N
BRAEMAR.
194
BRAID HILLS.
which were written on one of them by Miss Cathe-
rine Ponsonby : —
" Up the wild glen, dark fringing either side,
Crept the thick birchwood on the rocky steep,
Whose rich and clustering foliage sought to hide,
In arching canopy, the rapid leap
Of the rude mountain waters, dark and deep.
Through woods umbrageous the loud, moaning sound
Ascended sullenly and seemed to weep,
E'en with its coronet of verdure crowned,
Wild gushing tears, in secret cells, beneath the ground.
The shadows deepen, as the mountain dell,
Steep upon steep, winds wildly in ascent ;
Whilst the glad Sim, whose glances erewhile fell
Through openings of the trees, and brightness blent
With gloom, withdrew the lustre he had lent.
Sounds, like advancing thunders, pealing come
Athwart the air, as if the rocks were rent ; —
When lo ! the Cataract's white, feathery foam
Bursts on the sight, dashing from its wild mountain dome!"
On the estate of Castletown of Braemar is the
vestige of an ancient castle built, tradition reports,
by Malcolm Canmore for a hunting-seat. It is on
the top of a rock on the east side of the water of
Cluny ; and the King having thrown a drawbridge
across the river to the rock on the opposite side,
the parish of Braemar derived its name of Ceann-
an-drochaid, or Bridgehead, from that circumstance.
— On a little mount on the haugh of Castletown
stands the modem castle of Braemar. It was ori-
ginally the property of Farquharson of Invercauld,
and given to a second son of that family as his pa-
trimony. About the end of Queen Mary's reign,
these lands were excambed with the Earl of Mar
for the lands of Monaltry; and, soon after his ac-
cession to the estate, he built the present house.
King William, after the Bevolution, put some troops
into it to keep the country in awe ; but the people
sorely besieged the garrison, obliged the troops to
retire under favour of night, and, to save themselves
from such troublesome neighbours for the future,
burnt the castle. In this state it continued till 1715,
when the Mar estates were forfeited. About 1720,
Lords Dun and Grange purchased from government
all the lands belonging to the Erskine family ; and
about 1730, John Farquharson of Invercauld bought
the lands of Castletown from Lords Dun and Grange.
About 1748, Mr. Farquharson gave a lease to gov-
ernment of the castle, and an enclosure of 14 acres
of ground, for the space of 99 years, at £14 of yearly
rent; upon which the house was repaired, a ram-
part built round it, and the place occupied by a
party of soldiers.
On the lands of Monaltry, on the north bank of
the Dee, in a narrow pass, where there is not above
60 yards of level ground from the river to the foot
of a steep, rocky hill, stands a cairn, known by the
name of Caim-na-cuimJine, or the ' Cairn of remem-
brance.' The military road is carried along the foot
of this hill, and through this pass. The tradition
of the country is, that many ages ago, the country
being in danger, the Highland chieftains raised their
men, and marching through this pass, caused each
man lay down a stone in this place. When they re-
turned, the stones were numbered; by which simple
means it was known how many men were brought
into the field, and what number had been lost in
action. Cairn-na-cuimhne is the watchword of the
country-side here. Every person capable of bearing
armp, was in ancient times obliged to have his
weapons, a bag with some bannocks in it, and a
pair of new-mended shoes always in readiness ; and
the moment the alarm was given that danger was
apprehended, a stake of wood, — the one end dipped
in blood, and the other burnt, as an emblem of fire
and sword,- — was put into the hands of the person
nearest to where the alarm was given, who imme-
diately bore it with all speed to his nearest neigh-
bour, whether man or woman, who, in like manner,
and with equal haste, bore, it to the next village, or
cottage ; and so on, till the whole country was raised,
and eveiy man capable of bearing arms had repaired
to the Cairn-na-cuimhne. The stake of wood was
named CroisMarich. " At this day," — says the writer
of the Old Statistical Account of this parish, from
whom we borrow these details, — " were a fray or
squabble to happen at a market, or any public meet-
ing, such influence has this word over the minds of
the country people, that the very mention of Caim-
na-cuimhne would, in a moment, collect all the peo-
ple in this country, who happened to be at said
meeting, to the assistance of the person assailed."
In the years succeeding 1848 Braemar has acquired
a new interest as the scene of the autumnal ram-
bles of the royal family, — whose Highland retreat
is nearly adjacent in Crathie. See Balmoral.
BBAE-MOEAY, a frequent name of the parish
of Edenkeillie in Morayshire, descriptive of its as-
cent from the plain in the vicinity of Forres.
BEAE-EIACH, a mountain on the mutual border
of Eothiemurchus in Inverness-shire and Braemar
in Aberdeenshire. It is one of the Cairngorm
Grampians, and has an altitude of 4,220 feet above
the level of the sea. Its north-western acclivities
overhang Glenennich, and abound in terrific preci-
pices ; and its south-eastern shoulder contains the
northern source of the Dee, at a spot only 160 feet
lower than the mountain's apex.
BEAES, a village contiguous with Calder-Bank
in the parish of Old Monkland, Lanarkshire.
BEAGEUM, a hamlet in the parish of Methven,
Perthshire.
BEAHAN CASTLE, the principal seat of Mac-
kenzie of Seaforth, in the parish of Urray in Boss-
shire. It is placed nearly in the centre of a beauti-
ful bank, which extends on the north side of the
Conan river, from Contin to Dingwall, rising in a
series of successive terraces from the river. The
road from Inverness to Dingwall, by the head of
Loch-Beauly, runs a little to the east of it. Miss
Spense visited Brahan castle, — or Braan castle as
she spells it — in 1816, but declares herself to have
been very ill rewarded for her trouble. She expected,
it seems, an edifice " possessing somewhat of the
magnificence of many of our noble edifices in Eng-
land," instead of which, she says, " I beheld a heavy
pile of buildings, neither modem nor antique, ex-
tremely gloomy, and without the imposing air of
gloomy grandeur which often characterizes ancient
fabrics." A more recent lady traveller, Miss Sin-
clair, writes in a kindlier spirit of the Mackenzie's
house and domain, which she pronounces " worthy
of the ancient Seaforth dynasty, being a massy old
edifice of handsome exterior, though united to a
better-half of veiy disproportioned age and unsuita-
ble appearance, — the one being venerable with de-
clining years, the other very plain, and exceedingly
juvenile." There are some interesting portraits
here, and a good library.
BEAID BTJEN, a rivulet of Edinburghshire. It
rises among the Pentland hills about Bonally and
Dreghorn. and runs 9 miles north-eastward through
the parishes of Colinton, St. Cuthbert's, Liberton,
and Duddingston, to the frith of Forth at the north
end of Portobello. Its course due south of Edinburgh
is between Braid hills and Blackford hill ; and at
the south-east base of Arthur's Seat, it flows through
the pleasure-grounds of Duddingston House, and is
accumulated in ponds to drive the flour-mills of
Duddingston.
BRAID HILLS, a range of low green hills, ex-
tending east and west, on the south side of Braid
BRAIDWOOD.
195
BRAN.
Burn, and on the mutual border of the parishes of
Colinton, St. Cuthbcrt's, and Lihorton, about 2J
miles south of Edinburgh. They command one of
the best views of the old town of Edinburgh, with
its circumjacent landscape. Their most elevated
point is about 700 feet above sea-level. A stratum
of petunse runs through them, continued from a
stratum of the same mineral in the Pentlnnd-hills.
This mineral is similar to the petunse of the Chinese,
and has been employed with success in the manu-
facture of British porcelain. Besides this mineral,
Eetrosilex, terra ponderosa, zeolites, and agates,
ave been found here in considerable masses. Sev-
eral fine specimens of molybdena have also been
picked up. According to one traditional legend,
these hills were the scene of ' Johuie o' Breadislee's '
woful hunting as related in the old ballad com-
mencing thus : —
" Jolinic rose up in a May morning,
Called for water to wash bis hands, hands,
And he is awa to Braidishanks,
To ding the dun deer doun, doun,
To ding the dun deer doun.*'
BRAIDWOOD, or Bkadwood, a village in the
parish of Carluke, about a mile south-west of the
village of Carluke, Lanarkshire. It has a station
on the Caledonian railway. The great Koman road
called Watling-street passes through it. Limestone
of excellent quality is worked in the vicinity. The
barony of Braidwood anciently belonged to the Earls
of Douglas; and passed successively to the Earls
of Angus, Chancellor Maitland, the Earl of Lauder-
dale, the Douglases again, and the Lockharts of
Carnwath, and now belongs to various parties who
hold of the Lockhart family. Population of the
village, 234.
BRAINSFOED, or Baikspoed, a village in the
parish of Falkirk, Stirlingshire. It stands on the
Forth and Clyde canal, about a mile north of Fal-
kirk, yet forms with Grahamstown a continuous
street-suburb of that town, and is included within
the parliamentary burgh. The Carron iron-works
on the south border of the parish of Larbert are
near Brainsford, and give employment to a large
proportion of its inhabitants. A basin here accom-
modates the Carron Company's vessels in the Liver-
pool trade, and a railway connects the place with
the works. There is a rope-walk here, and there is
a large saw-mill on the banks of the canal toward
Grangemouth. Population, 1,248.
BRALLAIG (Loch), a lake of upwards of a mile
in length and about balf-a-mile in breadth, in the
parish of Kilninver, Argyleshire. It lies parallel
with Loch Scamadale, and is overhung by a pictur-
esque range of hills of about 800 feet high.
BEAN "(The), a river of Perthshire. It issues
from the east end of Loch Freuchie in the parish of
Dull, and flows east-north-eastward along Strath-
bran, past Amulree, through the parish of Little
Dunkeld, to a junction with the Tay a little above
Dunkeld bridge. Its length of course, measured
from Loch Freuchie, is about 10 miles; but mea-
sured from the sources of the Quaich which falls
into that lake, is at least 16 miles. "The contrast
between the Tay and the Bran," says Stoddart, "is
very strong. The former is deep, broad, and smooth;
the latter, turbulent and impetuous, and its bed
composed of rocks, or large loose stones. At the
village of Inver, which stands between the Tay and
the Bran, a mill, a woody island, and a bridge of
two arches over the latter river, form a veiy pic-
turesque landscape. Proceeding up the banks of
the Bran, we reach an extensive enclosure, laid out
as a garden, with walks that wind through the
shrubbery and wood. One of these leads to a small
building, where tlie guide introduces us into a cir-
cular vestibule, and suddenly throws open, with a
pulley, the door of an elegant inner apartment, the
farther end of which is one large bow window.
Through this window, a noble cataract, bo close,
that it wets the glass with its spray, and a stretch
of the river, for 200 or 300 yai-ds, tumbling through
a rocky bed, in one continued rapid, burst at once
on the eye ! The window was formerly composed
of different coloured panes, but this childish device
has been corrected. The Bran continues struggling
among rocks, as we quit the enclosure, and a little
above it reach the Rumbling bridge. This is a
single arch, thrown across the mouth of an hideous
chasm, where the rocks almost unite at top, and
through which the river, after being precipitated
from an height nearly level with the bridge, runs at
the depth of 80 or 90 feet. The immense masses of
shapeless rock — one of which lies quite across the
chasm, and conceals the lower part of the fall — the
disorder in which they are grouped, the roaring of
the water, and the gloom of the narrow fissure
through which it flows, form, altogether, a sublime
and terrific scene. In returning from the Rumbling
bridge we may choose various paths ; and indeed a
stranger might employ several days, with pleasure,
in following the different walks among the hills.
Though these are mostly embosomed in wood, we
come every five or ten minutes to some interesting
spot. We are either led under lofty projecting pre-
cipices, or to some commanding eminence, or open-
ing of the trees, which offers the full prospect or
partial glimpses of the valley below. Two scenes,
in the course of the walk, cannot fail to arrest the
particular notice of a stranger. One is in the gully,
or ravine, which divides the two summits of Craigie
Barns. Here vast fragments of mis-shapen rock,
which seem to have been rent from the cliffs, that
shoot to an awful height on the hill above, are
thrown together, in a rude and stupendous confu-
sion. Spots of heath, brushwood, and wild plants,
are interspersed, to which a few laurels and flower-
ing shrubs have been added, and a clear rivulet
forms various waterfalls, as it tinkles through the
crevices. At the lower part of this singular mass,
an irregular cave, formed by one of the large blocks
lying across several others, has been converted,
with a little aid from art, into a grotto or hermitage,
one fissure serving for a window, and another for a
vent. When here, a stranger should not omit to
follow the path that leads along the bottom of the
cliffs, which, with the screams of kites and other
ravenous birds flying perpetually across them, are
wild and terrific. The other scene I recommended
to notice, is a lake, at the foot of the same mountain.
It is nearly of an oval form, and so closely and
completely sheltered by the hill, which rises from
its margin on one side, and on the rest by the thick
woods in which it is embosomed, that its surface is
almost always smooth as glass. On the bank next
the mountain are scattered a few cottages, whose
white walls make a fine contrast with the dark
green woods. From the opposite bank, the view
of this scene is highly picturesque. The still and
tranquil lake, the mountain rising over it, covered
with wood and grey precipices of rock, the white
cottages, and the picture repeated in the water,
form a peaceful and pleasing landscape. On the
whole, Dunkeld seems a choice spot for the painter.
The sublimity of the mountains, the extent of the
woods, the noble size of one river, the wild romantio
appearance of the other, the large Gothic ruins, and
the genial and sheltered beauty of the low grounds,
when taken separately, may, perhaps, be equalled,
BRANDERBURGH.
196
BREADALBANE.
but I have never elsewhere seen them so admirably
combined." Mr. Gilpin speaks of this scene as the
most interesting of the kind he ever saw. " The
whole scene and its accompaniments," he observes,
" are not only grand, but picturesquely beautiful in
the highest degree. The composition is perfect,
but yet the parts so intricate, so various, and so
complicated, that I never found any piece of nature
less obvious to imitation : it would cost the readiest
pencil a summer's day to bring off a good resem-
blance." See Amtjlree and Dunkeld (Little).
BRANDANES. See Bute.
BRANDEEBURGH, a village in the parish of
Drainie, Morayshire. Population, 952.
BEANDIE. See Awe.
BRANDY (Loch). See Clova.
BBANXHOLM, a mansion, formerly a feudal
castle, in the parish of Hawick, Eoxburghshire. It
stands in the valley of the Teviot, about 3 miles
above the town of Hawick. It possesses great
celebrity as the ancient seat of the ducal family of
Buccleuch, as the central point of vast military
strength in the roy stering period of the border forays,
as the key for ages to all the strong places in Te-
viotdale, and as a prominent locality and brilliant
figurant in Scott's Lay of the Last Minstrel. It was
long the scene of great baronial splendour, and it is
classical alike in old balladry and in some of the
finest modern songs and lyrics. The original pile
— or rather that of the most sumptuous period — was
burnt down in 1532 by the Earl of Northumberland,
and blown up with gunpowder in 1570 during the in-
vasion of the Earl of Surrey ; and a successor to it
was commenced in 1571 by its owner, Sir Walter
Scott of Branxhohn, and completed in 1574 by his
widow. The present structure is very much smaller
than the ancient one ; and, with the exception of
an old square tower of immense strength of masonry,
it looks less like a castle than an old Scottish man-
sion-house. But its situation is strong and beauti-
ful, and must evidently have invested it with mighty
importance in the olden troublous times. The site
is a bold bank, overhanging the river, surrounded
by a fine young thriving wood, and shut suddenly
in by heights which give the vale for some distance
the narrowness of a dell ; and so abruptly does the
place burst on the view of a traveller from either
above or below that he would be perfectly charm-
struck with it, even were it unaided by any histori-
cal association ; and so sternly did the ancient castle
overawe the gorge, and hold armed men in readiness
to defend it, that any attempt of English marauders
to pass through without subduing the garrison must
have been absolutely hopeless.
In the reign of James L, one-half of the barony
of Branxholm belonged to Sir Thomas Inglis. This
gentleman was a lover of peace, ill able to bear the
excitements and conflicts and perils of the Border
warfare ; and, happening one day to meet Sir Wil-
liam Scott of Buccleuch, who was then proprietor of
the estate of Murdiestone in Lanarkshire, he strongly
expressed to him his disgust at being obliged to
sleep every night in boots and shirt of mail, and to
hold himself in constant readiness for action with
English freebooters, and his envy of the quiet and
security and continual ease which the lairds of
Clydesdale enjoyed at a distance from the Border,
and behind the ramparts of the Leadshill mountains.
Scott loved frolicking and feud as much as Inglis
hated them ; and he abruptly answered, " What say
you to an exchange of estates? I like that dry land
of yours much better than this stretch of wet clay."
"Are you serious?" replied Inglis. " IT you be,
take the dry land with all my heart, and let me have
the clay." They made short work of the bargain ;
and Scott soon found himself laird of Branxholm,
and significantly remarked as he got possession of
it that the cattle of Cumberland were as good as
those of Teviotdale.
Scott promptly gathered around him a strong body
of hardy, active, resolute, unscrupulous, well-mount-
ed retainers, and rode so often and vigorously at
their head across the Border, and made such smart
reprisals upon the English for any occasional injury
they did him, that he soon and permanently made
the balance of account between Cumberland and
Teviotdale veiy much in his own favour ; and his
successors, for several generations, rivalled his en-
ergy and closely followed his example, — so that they
rendered all the country round them resonant with
the clang of arms, and rich with well-defended or
rapidly augmented flocks. In the reign of James
II., the other half of the barony of Branxholm be-
came their property; and from that time till the
conditions of society were altered by the general
pacification of the Borders, and by the desuetude of
feudal broils and usages, Branxholm Castle was the
constant residence of the Buccleuch family, — the
scene of their baronial magnificence, — the court and
centre of their martial pomp and quasi-princely
state. How vividly does the great modern bard of
their name and clan, the mighty magician of modern
Scotland, depict their ancient Hall, and restore its
every- day scenes of crowded greatness in the follow
ing stanzas ! —
" The feast was over in Branxholm tower,
And the lady had gone to her secret bower;
Her bower that was guarded by word and by spell
Deadly to hear and deadly to tell —
Jesu Maria, shield us well !
No living wight, save the lady alone,
Had dared to cross the threshold stone.
The tables were drawn, it was idlesse all;
Knight and page, and household squire
Loitered through the lofty hall,
Or crowded round the ample fire ;
The stag-hounds, weary with the chase.
Lay stretched upon the rushy floor,
And urged, in dreams, the forest race,
From Teviot stone to Eskdale moor.
Nine-and-twenty knights of fame
Hung their shields in Branxholm Hall ;
Nine-and-twenty squires of name
Brought them their steeds to bower from stall;
Nine-and-twenty yeomen tall
"Waited duteous on them all ;
They were all knights of mettle true,
Kinsmen to the bold Buccleueh.
Ten of them were sheathed in steel,
With belted sword, and spur on heel;
They quitted not their harness bright
Neither by day, nor yet by night ;
They lay down to rest
With corselet laced,
Pillowed on buckler, cold and hard ;
They carved at the meal
With gloves of steel
And they drank the red wine through the helmet barred.
Ten squires, ten yeomen, mail-clad men,
Waited the beck of the wardour's ten ;
Thirty steeds, both fleet and wight,
Stood saddled in stable day and night,
Barbed with frontlet of steel, I trow,
And with Jedwood-axe at saddle bow ;
A hundred more fed free in stall ;
Such was the custom of Branxholm Hall."
BRANY (The). See Esk (The Nokth).
BRASSAY. See Bressat.
BREACACHA. See Coll.
BREADALBANE, a district about 33 miles long
and 31 miles broad, in the north-west of Perthshire.
It is mountainous and rugged, lying among the
Grampians ; and is bounded on the north by Loch-
aber and Athole ; on the south by Strathearn and
BREADALBANE.
197
BRECHIN.
Monteith ; and on the west by Lorn, Knapdale, and
Lochaber. It gives tbe title of Marquis to a branch
of the ancient family of Campbell. Sir John Camp-
bell was created Earl of Caithness in 1677 ; but, in
16S1, that title on a claim and petition, being allowed
by parliament to be vested in George Sinclair, who
was the 6th Earl of Caithness, Campbell was in-
stead thereof created Earl of Breadalbane, with pre-
cedence according to the former patent; and in 1831,
John, the 4th Earl, was created Marquis of Bread-
albane in the peerage of the United Kingdom. The
Marquis is the chief proprietor of the district. His
estate commences 2 miles east of Tay bridge, and ex •
tends to Easdale, in Argyleshire, a stretch of 100
miles, varying in breadth from 3 to 15 miles, and
interrupted only by the property of three or four pro-
prietors who possess one side of a valley or glen,
while Breadalbane has the other. In 1793—4, the
Earl of Breadalbane raised two fencible regiments
amounting together to 2,300 men, of whom 1,600
were obtained from the estate of Breadalbane alone.
In the extreme point of this district lies Loch Lyon,
whence the Lyon river flows through a sinuous val-
ley, till it falls into the Tay. In the centre of the
district lies Loch Tay, an inland lake about 16 miles
long, surrounded by splendid natural scenery. See
Loch Lyon and Loch Tat. The mountains — of which
Benlawers is the chief — are mostly composed of a
grey granite, containing beautiful crystals of schorl.
There is a copper mine at Aithra, and a lead mine
was formerly wrought at Tyndrum. A mountain
near Loch Dochart contains steatites or rock soap.
Peat-moss is found in abundance, and is the only
fuel of tbe country. Towards the beginning of last
century, the people of this district were adverse to
industry ; indeed the danger they were constantly
exposed to from the incursions of lawless banditti
was a great obstacle to the improvement either of
the land or their condition. Breadalbane, and even
the whole county of Perth, so late as the year 1745,
were obliged to submit either to he plundered, or to
pay black mail, as tbe price of their security. Lord
Breadalbane, who had more spirit than submit to
these conditions, generally kept up a small army of
militia for the defence of the tenants on his estates.
The act of parliament, however, which abolished
hereditary jurisdictions, and vested the power and
punishment in stronger hands, soon put an end to
these depredations ; and since that period the people
have become industrious, and their condition has
much improved. Kenmore, Killin, and Clifton, are
the principal villages. Breadalbane has>good roads
and bridges, rendering the communication more easy
than could well he supposed in so mountainous a
country.
Hugh Cameron, who died in 1817, at the extra-
ordinary age of 112 years, though an individual
moving in the humblest rank was one of the greatest
benefactor's to this district of Perthshire. This
singular character was bred a mill-wright. After
acquiring a knowledge of his business, he settled at
Sbiain of Lawers, where he built the first lint-mill
that ever was erected in the Highlands of Scotland.
Before his time only the distaff and spindle were
used for spinning lint and wool in this part of the
country; and he was not only the first who con-
structed spinning-wheels and jack-reels in Breadal-
bane, but likewise the first who taught the people
there how to use them. The number of lint-mills
afterwards erected by him throughout the High-
lands cannot he reckoned at less than a hundred: in
short almost all the lint-mills in the Highlands of
Perthshire, and many in the counties of Inverness,
Caithness, and Sutherland, were of his erecting. He
also constructed the first barley-mill that was built
upon the north side of the Forth, for which he was
highly complimented by Maca Glasarich,— Camp-
bell, the bard, — in a very popular song, called
' Moladh di Eobhan Camashran Muillelr lin,' that
is, A song in praise of Hugh Cameron, the lint-
miller. Though he could only be called a country-
wright, he was a man of uncommon genius, of
great integrity, and of a very indepeudent mind.
BRECHIN, a parish, containing the royal burgh
of Brechin, and the villages of Little Brechin and
Trinity Moor, in the north-east of Forfarshire. It
is bounded by the parishes of Menmuir, Strick-
athrow, Dun, Farnwell, Aberlemno, and Caraldston.
Its length eastward is 7 miles; and its greatest
breadth is about 6 miles. The South Esk flows
partly through the interior and partly along the
southern boundary. Burghhill or Burkle, on the
south side of the town, is the only considerable emi-
nence. Most of the parish is either level or diver-
sified only by gentle swells. Part of the South
Esk's banks are rocky heights, and part are low
flats, subject to deep inundation. The general
ascent of the parish is more rapid on the south side
of the river than on the north. The soil of most of
the arable land is fertile. About 2,770 imperial
acres have never been cultivated, about 9,800 are
regularly or occasionally in tillage, and about 3,270
are under planted wood. There are some lime-
works and several sandstone quarries. There
are also three large nurseries. The value of real
property, in 1865, exclusive of the burgh, was
£17,686 4s. lid. ; of which £1,607 14s. were in rail-
ways. The chief seats are those of the Earl of Dal-
housie, Aberdein of Keithock, and Speid of Ar-
dovie. Brechin castle, the seat of the Earl of
Dalhousie, is built on the site of an ancient castle,
on a perpendicular rock overhanging the South Esk,
in the vicinity of the town. It sustained a siege
of twenty days in 1303 by the English under Ed-
ward I.; and, notwithstanding every effort to com-
pel the besieged to surrender, held out, until the
governor, Sir Thomas Maule, was killed by a stone
thrown from an engine, when the place was in-
stantly given up. A descendant of this brave man
was, in 1616, created Lord Maule of Brechin and
Earl of Panmure. These titles were forfeited in
1715, but restored at the coronation of William IV.,
in the person of the Hon. William Eamsay Maule,
created Lord Panmure and Navar. On the 5th of
July, 1572, Sir Adam Gordon of Auehindown, who
was of the Queen's party, and was besieging the
castle of Glenbervie, hearing that a party of the
King's friends were in Brechin, came upon them by
surprise in the morning, and cut off the whole party.
Another battle was fought in this neighbourhood,
between the Earls of Crawford and Huntly, on the
18th May 1452, when the former was defeated, and
the latter did James II. very essential service. This
battle is called the Battle of Brechin, though tbe
spot on which it was fought is not in the parish,
but a little to the north-east of it, on the road lead-
ing to the North Water bridge. In the northern
part of the parish are the remains of a Danish camp.
Maitland, author of the histories of London and
Edinburgh; Dr. Gillies, the historian of Greece;
Dr. Tytler, tbe translator of Callimachus; and his
brother, James Tytler, who had so large a share in
compiling the ' Encyclopaedia Britannica' and other
works, were natives of this parish. A branch rail-
way goes eastward from the town to a junction with
the Aberdeen railway. The road from Montrose to
Kirriemuir traverses the parish westward, and that
from Dundee to Aberdeen by way of Forfar tra-
verses it northward. Population in 1831, 6,508 ; iE
1861, 8,8-10. Houses, 1,107.
BRECHLN.
198
BKECHLN.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the synod
of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown. It is a
collegiate charge. Stipend of the 1st minister £292,
with a manse and garden ; of the 2d minister £340,
with a manse and glebe. Unappropriated teinds,
£704 lis. 4d. Schoolmaster's salary, £34. The
parish church was repaired in 1808, was partially
repaired again in 1863, and contains 1,511 sittings.
There are two Free churches — the East and the
West; and the yearly sum raised, in 1865, in con-
nexion with the former was £7 1 6 6s., — in connexion
with the latter, £655 15s. There was an Original
Secession church, built in 1821, and containing 400
sittings, and it became a Free church, designated
the South Free church ; but a short time before 1865,
it was purchased by the Temperance Society, and
converted into a fine small Temperance hall. There
are three United Presbyterian churches,— one of
them in High Street, — another in City Road, — and
the third in Maison Dieu Lane. And there is an
Episcopalian chapel, which was built in 1809, and
repaired in 1830, and contains 300 sittings. There
are eight non-parochial schools.
The Town of Brechin — a post and market town,
a r03'al burgh, anciently an episcopal see, and still
a principal town of Forfarshire — is finely situated
near the centre of the parish, on the left bank of the
South Esk, 8 miles west-north-west of Montrose, 12 J
miles north-east of Forfar, 25 south-west of Stone-
haven, 26A north-north-east of Dundee, and 83 J
north-north-east of Edinburgh. The principal
street is about a mile in length, extending south-
ward to the bridge over the river. Towards the
east and south are the Upper and Lower Tenements
of Caldhame, as they are called, which are two
streets of considerable length, but independent of
the burgh, being without the royalty, but within
the parliamentary boundary. Some parts of the
main streets are very steep; yet Brechin, on the
whole, is a well-built town, and contains a consider-
able number of good houses. The streets are lighted
with gas, and the town is well-supplied with water.
An anonymous rhymester tells us :
" The finest view of Brechin may be got
From a soft rising ground beyond the bridge,
Where you may see the county every spot,
And the town rising up a sudden ridge ;
The castle, old cathedral, and what not.
And the spire's griffin minish'd to a midge."
The town was formerly walled round, and some
relics of the gates were in existence till recently.
It was twice devastated by fire, — by the Danes in
1012, and by the Marquis of Montrose in 1645. A
bishopric was founded here, by David I., in 1150,
and liberally endowed. The revenues of this see
were, in 1561, as follows: Money, £410 5s.; wheat,
11 bolls: bear, 61 ch. 5 bolls; meal, 123 ch. 3 bolls;
horse-corn, 1 ch. 2 bolls; salmon, 3 barrels; capons,
11J doz. ; poultry, 16 doz. and 10; geese, 18. Add
to this money of teinds £241 6s. 8d. "We have
already hinted," says Headrick in his ' Agricultural
Report on Forfarshire,' "the strong probability
that the places which were occupied, first by the
Culdees, and afterwards by bishops and mitred
abbots, had previously been consecrated in popular
estimation as the chief seats, or, in more modern
language, the cathedral churches of Druidism.
However this may be, it seems certain that this
place was a seat of the Culdees, who had established
schools and seminaries of such learning as was in
fashion in their time, long before bishops, mitred
abbots, or monastic institutions, such as afterwards
prevailed, were known in this country. The first
origin of the town seems to have been houses for
religious persons, contiguous to the cathedral. The
revenues of ecclesiastics being accumulated and ex-
pended here, and the place being a general resort
from religious motives, would induce tradesmen to
settle, with a view to supply such articles of manu-
facture or of commerce as were then in demand."
The Cathedral-church of St. Ninian, supposed to
have been founded by David I., was a stately Gothic
fabric, 166 feet long and 61 broad, the roof supported
by two rows of pillars and arches. The eastern
end was sadly devastated at the Reformation: but
the building in fact appears never to have been
completed. The present parish-church occupies the
west end of the cathedral. At the north-west cor-
ner is a square tower, with a handsome spire 128
feet high. At the south-west comer is one of those
round towers, probably of Pictish origin, of which
this and another at Abernethy are all the specimens
that remain in Scotland. See Abernethy. The
tower of Brechin is a circular column of great
beauty and elegance, 80 feet high, with a kind of
spire or roof rising 23 feet more, making the whole
height 103 feet, while the diameter over the walls
at the base is only 16 feet. The building consists
of 60 courses of stone, not very regular, however,
some of them measuring 21, and others only 9
inches in thickness. The fabric seems to have sus-
tained very little injury from the lapse of years.
Formerly, when the bells of the church — now trans-
ferred to the square tower — were fixed in it, there
was a series of platforms erected in it, which were
ascended by ladders. The door of entrance is about
6J feet from the ground, 2 feet wide, and 6 feet high ;
the sides are formed of a block of granite ; nearly in
the middle of each stands a human figure on a kind
of bracket; the lintel is a block of granite cut into
a semicircular arch ; over the centre stands another
figure in a different drapery from the other two.
The sole is one block of stone ; on each side of it
are the figures of two animals with long claws and
tail ; that on the left hand seemingly in the act of
devouring something. The whole entrance is orna-
mented with a border of diamond figures. A draw-
ing and description of this singular monument is
given in the 2d volume of the ' Archseologia.' Tra-
dition ascribes the erection of this building to the
Picts. It is somewhat off the plumb-line, and has
been observed to vibrate in high winds. In a lane
at the back of the town are some remains of the
ancient chapel of Maison Dieu, founded by William
de Brechin, in 1256, and confirmed by James III. in
1477. The Episcopalian chapel is a neat structure
with a cross and two minarets on its west end.
The town-house, situated in the middle of the
town near the market-place, was chiefly rebuilt
in the latter part of last century, and is a respectable
edifice, containing a court-room, police-office, and
cells on the ground floor, and a guild-hall and coun-
cil-rooms above. A modern jail stands in the out-
skirts of the town, but has ceased to be used. The
Mechanics' Institute is a great ornament to the
town. It stands on the site of the former academy ;
and is a splendid Elizabethan edifice, with a central
tower. It was erected in 1838, by the munificence
of the late Lord Panmure, who endowed it with
£1,000 at the time of its completion, and with an-
other £1,000 by bequest, and also provided it with
a public clock, which was just being put up on the
very day of his death in 1852. This edifice con-
tains three public school-rooms, a hall or lecture-
room, capable of accommodating between 400 and
500 persons, and a library- room which contains
above 3,000 volumes. A reading-room is behind a
shop. The school-rooms are those of the grammar
school, the parish school, and the burgh school.
The rector of the grammar school is appointed by
BRECHIN.
199
BRESSAY.
the magistrates ; and has a salary of £8 17s. 9d.
a-year. He also holds from Government the office
of " Preceptor of Maison Dieu," which is the only
remnant of that ancient establishment, and yields
him about £37 a-year. The master of the parish
School is paid in the same manner as other parish
schoolmasters, but receives £10 from the town in
lieu of a house and garden. The master of the
burgh school is appointed by the magistrates and
council, and receives a salary of £25 a-year, which,
as well as his school itself, originated in a public
subscription in 1826 and 1827. There are also in
the town a Free church school, an Episcopal school,
an infant subscription school, a ragged subscription
school, and a number of adventure schools. There
are also several congregational libraries, and there
are two reading-rooms for the working-classes.
Brechin is governed by a provost, 2 baillies, a
dean of guild, treasurer, hospital master and 7 coun-
cillors; and unites with Forfar, Arbroath, Montrose,
and Bervie in sending a member to parliament.
Small debt courts are held at Brechin on the 3d
Tuesday of January, March, May, July, September,
and November. The value of the burgh-property
was, in 1832, £13,935; the town-house and school
might be valued at about £830 more. The revenue
arising from these subjects was £440, and from
customs, dues, &c., £281 ; making a total of £721;
while the expenditure was £709. The town's debts
at the same period amounted to £3,284. The burgh
property in 1864 was £23,856 ; the revenue, £3,137;
the expenditure, £2,984; and the debt, £11,505.
The burgh was at one time possessed of about 1,768
Scotch acres of land, the greater part of which was
feued out prior to 1770. There are six incorporated
crafts and a guildry. The parliamentary constitu-
ency in 1865 was 273 ; the municipal, 235. Annual
value of real property in 1865, £11,211.
The trade of the place is chiefly confined to the
manufacture of osnaburghs, sailcloth, and brown
linen. The weaving of these fabrics employed about
580 hand-looms in 1824, and 870 in 1838 ; but it em-
ploys very few hand-looms now, and is done princi-
pally by power-looms in factories. There were six
factories in 1865, three of which had been erected
within the previous two years ; and these contained
about 500 power-looms. There are two large bleach-
fields here, a flax spinning-mill, a paper-work, two
breweries, and two distilleries. The country around
exports a considerable quantity of grain. The British
Linen Company, the Royal Bank, the Union Bank,
and the City of Glasgow Bank have branches here.
There are weekly markets on Tuesday. A great
fair for all sorts of bestial is held on the second
Wednesday in June, on Trinity or Tarnty moor, —
an extensive tract of pasture ground, about a mile to
the north of the town, which is reserved for this
purpose ; and the fair is continued on the two fol-
lowing days. It has been a great fair from time
immemorial. Other three markets are held on the
moor in the months of April, August, and Septem-
ber. The branch railway to Bridge of Dun has
been of much use ; and a direct line, by way of
Brechin, from Forfar to Laurencekirk, is contem-
plated. A weekly newspaper, called the Brechin
Advertiser, is published on Tuesday. The town has
a savings' bank, a dispensary, refreshment rooms for
working men, a horticultural society, a total absti-
nence society, and various charitable institutions.
Population of the municipal burgh in 1841, 3,951;
in 1861, 4,720. Houses, 527. Population of the
parliamentary burgh in 1861, 7,179. Houses, 782.
BRECHIN (Little), a village in the parish of
Brechin, Forfarshire. Population in 1841, 120.
BRECKON HILL. See Mosoo (St.).
BRERIACH. See Brae-Riacit.
BRESSAY, BURRA, and QUARFF, an united
parish in Shetland. Its post-town is Lerwick. Bres-
say comprises the islands of Bressay and Noss, lying
east of the mainland opposite Lerwick. Quarff com-
prises a part of the mainland, extending from sea
to sea between Lerwick on the north and Dunross-
ness on the south. Burra comprises the islands of
Burra, House, Hevera, and Papa, lying west of the
mainland opposite Quarfl'. See the articles Noss,
Quarff, Burra, House, Hevera, and Papa. The
island of Bressay lies between Noss and the main-
land, and is separated from the latter by Bressay
Sound. Its length from north to south is nearly
6 miles; and its breadth, for the most part, is be-
tween 2 and 3 miles. Its centre lies right opposite
Lerwick. Its coast is rocky; and its surface is in-
dented, tumulated, and otherwise diversified. Ander
Hill on its east side, and Beacon hill near its south-
ern extremity, are its highest grounds,- — the former
a ridge of at least 400 feet in altitude, and the latter
a somewhat conical height of 724 feet in altitude.
Bressay Sound is the rendezvous for the whale-ships
on their passage to Greenland and Davis' Straits,
and of the British and Continental busses em-
ployed in the deep-sea herring - fishery. These
busses are decked vessels, each from 60 to 80 toils
burden, and carrying from 14 to 20 hands; most of
them belong to the Dutch, the Danes, and the Ger-
mans; and sometimes so many as upwards of one
thousand assemble here before the 24th of June.
The sound has two entries, one from the south and
another from the north. " The south passage," says
Edmonston, " is the one at which vessels of a large
draught of water enter, and go out. Nearly at the
middle where there is a rock, the harbour narrows,
but it widens again into a deep bay. On account
of this rock, vessels almost always moor between
the middle and the south end, where indeed there
is ample accommodation for a great number. The
north passage is very narrow, and a rapid tide runs
through it; nor are there in it, even at spring-tides,
more than 18 feet of water at its deepest point.
There is no dry harbour at Lerwick, as the water
does not fall above 7 or 8 feet ; but small sloops un-
load, during fine weather, at the wharfs. Bressa
sound frequently affords shelter to men-of-war, and,
at a small expense, might be rendered a most useful
station to our North sea cruisers. In 1 653 the Eng-
lish fleet, consisting of ninety-four men-of-war,
under the orders of Admirals Deans and Monk, lay
some days in Bressa sound. And in 1665 another
fleet, under the Earl of Sandwich, consisting of
ninety -two sail of men-of-war, spent some time in
the same harbour. On the outside of the north
entry lies a sunk rock called the Unicom. When
the Earl of Bothwell fled to Shetland, four vessels,
under the command of Grange and Tullibardine,
were despatched in pursuit of him. On the appear-
ance of this squadron, Bothwell's ships then lying
in Bressay sound, immediately got under weigh, and
sailed out at the north entry, followed hard by their
pursuer, whose flag-vessel, called the Unicorn,
struck upon this rock, which has ever since been
called the Unicorn. — There is a good harbour at
Aithova. Lerwick is supplied with peats from the
hills of Bressay, and the whole of Shetland with
slates from its excellent quarries. The fishing on
the coast of Burra is carried on at a small expense.
The fishermen set their lines in the evening, and
draw them in the morning. Their winter-fishings
have been sometimes known to exceed their sum-
mer's. They have upon their coast a fine oyster-
scalp, from which they take large rich oysters. —
There are several ruins of Piotish castles in this
BREWERY.
200
BEISHMEAL.
parish. There are also several perpendicular stones,
about 9 feet high, erected no doubt for the purpose
of commemorating some great event, but of which
we have no account. One of them, in the island of
Bressay, makes an excellent land-mark to ships
coming into Bressay sound. There are remains of
several chapels in Bressay. Population of the par-
ish in 1831, 1,699; in 186:1, 1,805. Houses, 315.
This parish is in the presbytery of Lerwick and
synod of Shetland. Patron, the Earl of Zetland.
Stipend, £153 6s. 8d.; glebe, £11. Schoolmaster's
salary is £36 with fees. The parish church was
built in 1815, and contains 370 sittings. There are
a government church in Quarff and also a church in
Burra, both under the care of a separate minister,
who has a stipend of £120 and a manse and glebe.
There are likewise three small dissenting chapels,
Wesleyan, Independent, and Baptist. There are
several private schools.
BREWERY, a hamlet in the parish of Borthwick,
Edinburghshire. It derived its name from an ale-
brewery, which is now in ruins.
BRlARACHAN (The), a rivulet of Perthshire,
which rises in the parish of Moulin, and, running
through Glen Briarachan, forms the Atedle:
which see.
BRIDEKIRK, a village in the parish of Annan,
Dumfries-shire. It stands on the right bank of the
river Annan, 3 miles north-north-west of the town of
Annan. A stone bridge of three arches here spans
the river. A large building, erected for a wool-fac-
tory, but afterwards used also for a saw-mill, stands at
the east end of the bridge. A corn-mill, an endowed
school-house, and a chapel of ease are in the village.
The chapel was built in 1835, entirely at the expense
of Mrs. Dirom of Mount-Annan and her friends, and
contains 370 sittings. Population of the village in
1861,360.
BRIDE'S BURN. See Kilbarchan.
BRIDGE OF ALLAN. See Allan (Bkidge of).
BRIDGE OF CREE. See Cree-Beidge.
BRIDGE OF DEE. See Dee (Beidge op).
BRIDGE OF EARN. See Earn (Bkidge of).
BRIDGE OF FREW. See Kilmadock.
BRIDGE OF TEITH. See Dodne and Kilma-
DOOK.
BRIDGE OF TILT. See Blaie-Athole.
BRIDGE OF TURK. See Acheay (Loch).
BRIDGE OF URR. See Uer (Bkidge of).
BRIDGE OF WEIR. See Weie (Beidge of).
BRIDGE (West). See Invertiel.
BRIDGEND, a village on the eastern verge of
the parish of Cardross, Dumbartonshire. It stands
on the right bank of the Leven, and is a suburb of
the town of Dumbarton. Population in 1861, 799.
See Dumbarton.
BRIDGEND, a village contiguous to Lugton
in the parish of Dalkeith, Edinburghshire. See
Logton.
BRIDGEND, a village in the parish of Dunse,
Berwickshire. It stands near the south side of the
town of Dunse, being separated from it by a bog
which formerly was impassable.
BRIDGEND, a hamlet in the parish of Melrose,
Roxburghshire. It stands about a mile west of the
town of Melrose, adjacent to the bridge of the Edin-
burgh and Jedburgh highway. An ancient bridge
of curious construction stood here, said to have been
built by David I. to facilitate communication with
Melrose abbey. It had a central tower, containing
the keeper's residence.
BRIDGEND, a suburb of the city of Perth,
situated on the left bank of the Tay, in the parish
cf Kinnoul, Perthshire. Population in 1861, 657.
See Kinnoul and Pekth.
BRIDGEND, a suburb of the town of Dumfries,
situated on the right bank of the Nith, in the parish
of Troqueer, Kirkcudbrightshire. It is now more
commonly called Maxwelltown: which see.
BRIDGEND, a village in the parish of Muthil,
Perthshire. It stands on the right bank of the
river Earn, adjacent to the town of Crieff. Popula-
tion, 118.
BRIDGEND, a suburb of the town of Ceres in
Fifeshire. Population in 1861, 518. See Ceres.
BRIDGEND, a village in the parish of Kilarrow,
island of Islay, Argyleshire. It stands at the
northern extremity of Lochindaal, 3 miles north-east
of Bowmore, and 8J south-west of Port-Askaig. A
sprinkling of tile-roofed cottages occurs along the
shore between it and Bowmore.
BRIDGEND, a village in the parish of Euthven,
in the valley of the Isla, on the western verge of
Forfarshire. Population, 172.
BRIDGEND, a hamlet in the parish of Lintrathen,
on the western border of Forfarshire. Population
in 1851, 31.
BRIDGEND, a village in the parish of Rosskeen,
Ross-shire. Population in 1861, 756. See Alness-
Beedge.
BRIDGEND, a station on the Monkland branch
of the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway, between
Garnqueen and the Campsie junction, on the northern
border of Lanarkshire.
BRIDGEND, an estate in the parish of Lochwin-
noch, Renfrewshire. It takes its name from a very
ancient bridge, with a remarkably fine arch, across
the Calder, a little north-west of the village of Loch-
winnoch. The bridge was originally very narrow,
but was widened in 1814.
BRIDGEND, or Kendbochad, a village in the
parish of Kenmore, Perthshire. Population in
1851, 68.
BRIDGEND (Htndfoed), a hamlet on the right
bank of the Clyde, and on the road from Lanark to
Biggar, 2 miles south-east of Lanark. A modem
elegant bridge here spans the Clyde. See Hyxdforij.
BRIDGEND (Old), a village in the parish of
Galston, Ayrshire.
BRIDGENESS, a village in the parish of Camden,
Linlithgowshire.
BRIDGETON, a village in the parish of Redgor-
ton, Perthshire.
BRIDGETON, a suburb of Glasgow. See Glas-
gow.
BRIECH (The), a rivulet of the counties of Lan-
ark, Linlithgow, and Edinburgh. It rises in the
parish of Cambusnethan, runs 3 miles eastward to
the point where the three counties meet, and then
flows 8 miles north-eastward, along the boundary
between Linlithgowshire and Edinburghshire, to a
confluence with the Almond at a point about 2J
miles east of Blackburn.
BRIERBUSH, a village in the parish of Penpont,
in the near vicinity of the village of Penpont, Dum-
fri o^-sliii*©
BRIGHAM. See Biegham.
BRIMSNESS, a small headland in the parish of
Thurso, 4 miles south-west by west of Holbum Head,
Caithness-shire.
BRINDY HILL, a part of the lofty ridge which
divides the district of Garioch from the vale of Alford
in Aberdeenshire. See Alfoed.
BRISBANE. See Largs.
BRISHMEAL, a basaltic hill, of a circular shape,
on the south coast of the parish of Bracadale, in
Skye. It is situated behind Talisker, and has an
altitude of about 800 feet above sea level. It greatly
resembles the Scuir of Eig in both form and material,
has some beautiful basalts, both columnar and reti-
BROAD BAY.
201
BROUGHTON.
ciliated, and commands a magnificent view of tho
Storr, the Ciiclmllin mountains, and the Inverness-
shire Hebrides.
BRITISH AND IRISH UNION RAILWAY.
See Ayrshire.
BRITTLE (Xocn). See Skye.
BROAD BAY, an inlet of tlie sea in the parish
of Stornoway, between the Aird and the mainland
of the east side of Lewis. It extends south-west-
ward, and has a length of 8 miles with a mean
breadth of about 3J. It is unsafe for strangers, in
consequence of being traversed by a sunken reef;
but is serviceable to mariners who are acquainted
with its navigation and anchorages.
BROADFORD, a post-office village in the parish
of Strath, Isle of Skye. It stands at the head of a
small bay, called Broadford bay, opposite the
mouth of Loch-Carron, and 8 miles south-west of
Kyleakin ferry. It contains a few common houses,
two or three shops, a good inn, and the mansion of
Mackinnon of Corrychatachan. The peaked moun-
tain, Ben-na-Cilliach, with a shape like Vesuvius,
soars aloft in its vicinity. Fairs are held at Broad-
ford on the Thursday after the last Tuesday of May,'
on the Thursday after the third Tuesday of August,
and on the Thursday after the third Tuesday of
September.
BROADFORD. See Aberdeen (Old).
BROADHAVEN. See Wick.
BROADLAW, a mountain in the northern part of
the parish of Tweedsmuir, Peebles-shire. It belongs
to the Hartfell group. It is of easy ascent, and is
clothed with rich herbage. Its summit has an
altitude of 2,741 feet above sea-level, and commands
a sublime prospect from the English border to the
German ocean.
BROADMEADOWS. See Hutton.
BROADSEA, a fishing village in the parish of
Fraserburgh, a little west of the town of Fraser-
burgh, Aberdeenshire. Population, 371.
BROCHEL CASTLE. See Rasay.
BROCKLEHURST (Old), a hamlet in the parish
of Mousewald, Dumfries-shire. Population in 1851,
39.
BRODICK, a district, a bay, and a post-office
village in the island of Arran. The district and the
bay, and also Brodick Castle, are sufficiently noticed
in the article Arran. The village stands at the
head of the bay, 4i miles north of Lamlash, and 15
west-south-west of Ardrossan. It is a choice water-
ing-place; it contains a number of neat residences,
a spacious hotel, and a small belfried Established
church; it borrows magnificence from the noble
castle in its vicinity, and from the rich, varied, su-
perb landscape all around ; and it has regular
communication by steamers with Ardrossan and
with Glasgow. A fair is held on the first
Tuesday after the 20th of June. Population in
1851, 163.
BRODIE, a station on the Highland railway, 3A
miles west by south of Forres.
BROLUM (Loch), an inlet of the sea, about 2^
miles long, on the south-east coast of Lewis, about
8 miles east-north-east of Loch Seaforth.
BROOM, a small village in the Moy district of
the parish of Dyke and Moy, Morayshire.
BROOM (Loch), a capacious bay, terminating in
a narrow flexuous arm, on the north-western coast
of Ross-shire. At its month lie Priest and the Sum-
mer islands; at its head is situated Martin island;
about Half-way up the northern shore of the narrow
inlet stands the village of Ullapool (which see);
and at the head of this inlet is the small village of
Loch Broom. The country from Loch Broom north-
wards is destitute of trees ; and, in most places, pre-
See
sents only ban-en moors and naked rocks.
Lochbroom.
BROOM (Little Loch), a sea-inlet south of Loch
Broom, and separated from it by a narrow ridge.
BROOMIIALL. See Charleston, Dunfermline,
and Clackmannan.
BROOMHILL, a station on the Highland rail-
way, 34; miles south-south-west of Grantown.
BROOMHILL. See Lociimabe.v.
BROOMHOLM. See Langholm.
BROOMHOUSE, a village with a post-office in
the parish of Old Monkland, Lanarkshire.
BROOMIEKNOWE, a hamlet in the parish of
Heriot, Edinburghshire.
BROOMIELAW. See Glasgow.
BROOMKNOLL, a suburb or street of the town
of Airdrie, in the parish of New Monkland, Lanark-
shire. Here is a Free church, with an attendance
of 350. See Airdkle.
BROOMLANDS, a hamlet in the parish of Inch-
innan, Renfrewshire.
BROOMLEE, a station on the Dolphinton rail-
way, serving for West Linton in Peebles-shire.
BRORA (The), a river of Sutherlandshire, spring-
ing from the south-east sides of Benchlibrick, Benva-
don, and running in a south-easterly oblique direction,
until lost in the Moray frith at the village of Brora.
This river and its branches are narrow and rapid ;
but in its lower part, it runs through a level plain,
and forms three lakes, — the upper lake about a mile
long and half-a-mile broad, the others of less ex-
tent. The water of the upper lake seems deep and
black, from the dark shade reflected on it from the
mountains, and from the rock of Carrol, a bold
precipice upon the southern bank, at least 600 feet
high. The scenery at Gordon-bush is very roman-
tic and beautiful. From Killend the river runs
rather rapidly over a pebbly bed for 3 miles through
Strathsteven to Brora, and there it runs over rocks
into the sea. Its total length of course, irrespective
of minor sinuosities, is about 26 miles. Pearl-
mussels have been found in its bed.
BRORA, a village with a post-office in the parish
of Clyne, Sutherlandshire. It stands at the mouth
of the Brora river, and on the road from Inverness
to Wick, 4J miles north-east of Golspie. It is main-
tained chiefly by the working of quarries of beauti-
ful sandstone in the vicinity, but formerly was main-
tained by the working of coal and the making of
salt. The rocks around it possess uncommon inter-
est to geologists, for the juxtaposition of a coal for-
mation with granite, — the more so as that formation
belongs to the epochs of the lias and the oolite. A
fair is held at the village on the second Wednesday
of October. Population, 482.
BROTHER ISLE, a small island off the south
coast of Yell, in Shetland.
BROTHER (Loch), a lake about 3 miles in cir-
cumference, in the parish of Mearns, Renfrewshire.
See Mearns.
BROTHERTON, a post-office station, subordinate
to Montrose, Forfarshire.
_ BROTHOCK (The), a rivulet of Forfarshire. It
rises on the eastern border of the parish of Kirkden,
and flows 6 miles south-eastward, through the
parishes of Inverkeilour, St. Vigean's, and Ar-
broath, to the sea at the harbour of Arbroath. See
Arbroath.
BROUGH, a fishing hamlet in the parish of
Dunnet, 3 miles south-south-east of Dunnet-Head,
Caithness-shire. A slip has been built here by the
Commissioners of Northern Lights for landing theii
stores.
BROUGH-HEAD. See Burgh-Head.
BROUGHTON, GLENHOLM, and KILEUCHO.
BROUGHTY FERRY.
202
BROWHOUSES.
an united parish, containing the village of Brough-
ton and the post-office station of Eachan-Mill, in the
west side of Peehles-shire. It is hounded on the
west by Lanarkshire, and on other sides by the
parishes of Skirling, Kirkurd, Stobo, and Drum-
melzier. Its length north-north-eastward is 9J
miles ; and its extreme breadth is 5J miles. The
three parishes which it comprises form a compact
whole, — all traversed by streams from lines of water-
shed to the valley of Biggar Water and the Tweed,
— Glenholm in the south, with a north-eastward de-
scent, Kilbucho in the middle, with an east-north-
eastward descent, and Broughton in the north, with
a southward descent, and the mutual border of Kil-
bucho and Broughton, along the valley of Biggar
Water, with an eastward descent. The general sur-
face is beautifully picturesque. About 250 acres are
under wood, about 5,000 are regularly or occasion-
ally in tillage, and about 14,000 are grass land or
hill pasture. Glenholm and Kilbucho will be
described in separate articles. Broughton does not
touch Lanarkshire, but is separated from it by Skir-
ling. Its length southward is 3J miles; and its
greatest breadth is 2} miles. A lofty hill-range oc-
cupies its boundary with Kirkurd and Stobo. Its
highest grounds are Pyketstane and Broughton-
Hope, which have elevations of about 1,500 and
l,800feet above sea-level. Therailway from Syming-
ton to Peebles passes through the parish, and has a
station in it. The drainage of the northern, central,
and eastern districts is effected by Broughton burn.
The sole proprietor of Broughton is Macqueen of
Braxfield. A fine feature of the parish is the man-
sion of Broughton-Place, occupying a conspicuous
site, amid nobly-wooded grounds. The village of
Broughton stands on the road from Edinburgh to
Moffat, and on Broughton burn a little above its
confluence with Biggar Water, 5 miles east of Big-
gar. A fair is held here on the 3d of October.
Population of the village in 1851, 45. Population
of Broughton parish in 1831, 299 ; in 1861, 297.
Houses, 50. Population of the united parish in 1831,
911; in 1861, 723. Houses, 140. Assessed pro-
perty in 1843, £7,433 13s. ; in 1860, £8,271.
This parish is in the presbytery of Biggar, and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Penny of
Danevale. Stipend, £231 Is. lOd. ; glebe, £64 14s.
9d. Unappropriated teinds, £249 lis. 3d. There
is a parish school in each of the three parishes ; and
the salary of each master is £32, with fees. The
parish church is in Kilbucho. It was built in 1804,
and contains 500 sittings. There is a Free church,
with an attendance of 250 ; and the yearly sum
raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £132 6s.
5Jd. There are a savings' bank and a friendly
society.
BROUGHT Y FERRY, a small sea-port and post-
town, partly in the parish of Dundee but chiefly in
that of Monifieth, Forfarshire. It stands on the
frith of Taj', directly opposite Ferry-port-on-Craig,
4 miles east of Dundee, and 5| miles west of Bud-
donness. In the latter part of last century, it com-
prised only about half-a-dozen fishermen's huts;
but about the year 1790, it suddenly became a new
large village. Ever since that time it has steadily
increased in size and importance, as at once a fish-
ing-station, a seat of trade, and especially a sea-
bathing resort for summer visitors ; and at the for-
mation of the Edinburgh and Northern railway, it
acquired vast accession to its prosperity by being
made the point of that railway's communication
with Forfarshire and all places to the north. The
town is neat and clean ; and, as seen from the Tay,
with its skirt of fine villas on the rising grounds be-
hind, it presents a very picturesque appearance.
The west end of it is called West Ferry; the east
end is Broughty Ferry proper; a space which long
lay vacant between these is now in the course of
being edificed; and a beautiful row of villas along
the beach connects the two ends. North and west of
the sandy plain over which most of the houses are
spread, the ground rises with some abruptness. To
the east and south-east, are uneven links, stretching
towards Monifieth. South-east of the town, a point
of land stretches southward into the frith, which it
contracts in width so as to render the ferry across to
Fife shorter than any other between Errol and the
sea. On this point, named Broughty Craig, long
stood considerable remains of a ruined ancient fort-
ress, called Broughty Castle, not undistinguished in
history, and forming a very interesting object, with
a square keep latterly used as a coast-guard
signal-tower. The first transaction of import-
ance connected with it was its occupation by
the English, in 1547, after the battle of Pinkie. The
party of English by whom Broughty castle was gar-
risoned, had scarcely secured themselves within the
fortress, when they were blockaded by Arran ; who
sat down before it on the first of October 1547,
but on the 1st of the following January, hastily
raised the siege. Immediately after his departure,
the English fortified the neighbouring hill of Bal-
gillo, and ravaged great part of the county of Angus.
Archibald, 5th Earl of Argyle, hearing of this, hastily
collected a party of his clansmen, and led them
against the English at Broughty, where he sustained
a defeat ; as not long after did a numerous body of
French and German troops. On the 20th of Feb.
1550, both the castle and fort were taken by Des
Thermes, who brought against the English in this
quarter an army composed of Scots, Germans, and
French. The works at both places were now dis-
mantled ; and although, at least on the castle, re-
pairs were, perhaps more than once, bestowed, yet
we find in the annals of subsequent times little of
consequence recorded concerning them. What re-
mained of the castle, at the time of the recent or-
ganization of volunteer corps throughout the king-
dom, was then restored and extended by Govern-
ment, at a cost of about £7,000; and the castle is
now a fortress, mounted with a number of guns.
The town has a post-office with money-order de-
partment and savings' bank under Dundee, a rail-
way station, an office of the Royal Bank of Scotland,
a good hotel, a quoad sacra parish church, two Free
churches, and three other places of worship, United
Presbyterian, Episcopalian, and Independent. One
of the Free churches was completed in December
1865, and is a very handsome edifice, in the Gothic
style. The Episcopalian church was built in 1859-,
aiid is also a fine Gothic structure. An obelisk of
polished granite, 14 feet high, on a symmetrical
pedestal, was erected in 1860 to the memory of Dr.
Thomas Dick, the " Christian Philosopher," who
lived many years and died in Broughty Ferry.
The town has a gas-work ; it is supplied with water
by the Dundee water company ; and, in 1.863, it
adopted Provost Lindsay's police act. It carries on
a considerable trade ; and about 100 of its families
are engaged in fisheries. The valuation roll of ren-
tal, in 1865, was £16,800. Population in 1841,
1,980; in 1861,3,513; in 1865, about 4,000. Houses
in 1861, 590.
BROW, a decayed watering-place, at the influx of
Lochar Water to the Solway, Dumfries-shire. See
ROTHWELL.
BROWHOUSES, a village on the coast of the par-
ish of Gretna, about 5£ miles east by south of Annan,
Dumfries-shire. A bay adjacent to it affords some
slight shelter from the rushing tides of the Solway.
JLFuEartim fc 0 ? Lcnacm fcEdtoburgii
BROXBURN.
BRUNSWARK.
BROXBURN (The), a rivulet of Haddington-
shire. It rises in several head-streams in the parts
of Lammermoor adjacent to the sources of the
Whitadder, and runs about 7 miles north-eastward,
through the parishes of Spott and Dunbar, to the
German Ocean at Broxmouth, about a mile south-
east of the town of Dunbar. In part of its course it
bears the name of Spott Water. Broxmouth Park
around its embouchure is a seat of the Duke of
Roxburgh. In the low ground to the west of
Broxmouth, Cromwell defeated the Scottish army
under Leslie.
BROXBURN (The), a rivulet of Linlithgowshire.
It rises in the parish of Bathgate, and runs about 8
miles east-north-eastward, through the parishes of
Ecclesmachan and Uphall, to a confluence with the
Almond, about J of a mile above Kirkliston.
BROXBURN, a village with a post-office in the
parish of Uphall, Linlithgowshire. It stands 12
miles west by south of Edinburgh, and 30 miles
east-north-east of Glasgow, on the middle road be-
tween these cities, near the banks of the Union
Canal, and near the course of the Bathgate branch
of the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway ; and it has
a station on that railway. The parochial school of
Uphall is here. A cattle fair is held at the village
on the Friday after the Falkirk September tryst.
Population, 660.
BROXMOUTH. See Broxburn (The), Hadding-
tonshire.
BRUAN, a locality on the mutual border of the
parishes of Wick and Latheron, about 8 miles
south-west of the town of Wick, Caithness-shire.
Here is a Free church, whose total yearly proceeds
in 1865 amounted to £84 2s. 9d.
BRUAR (The), a rivulet of Perthshire. It rises
among the alpine heights of the Central Grampians,
in the extreme northern point of the county, and
runs about 10 miles southward to a confluence with
the Garry, about 3 miles west of Blair Athole. It
makes a prodigious aggregate descent in the lower
part of its course, and forms there a numerous,
various, celebrated series of cataracts and falls. A
bridge spans it a little above its mouth, taking
across the great road from Perth to Inverness. A
pathway leads from the end of the bridge up the
right bank of the stream, and at the distance of 40
or 50 yards is barred by a gate, at the side of a pic-
turesque cottage, where resides a woman who acts
as guide to tourists and strangers coming to see
the falls. Passing through the gate the traveller
enters a plantation of fir and larch, which continues
up to the top of the pass down which the water
rashes. Through this plantation walks have been
made, affording the spectator the most favourable
points of view. The falls themselves present a
succession of really magnificent pictures. The
sides of the pass rise abruptly from the bed of the
torrent, which has worn a path for itself, leaving
immense ragged masses of stone overhanging the
stream. The tops, and partly the sides, of the pre-
cipices are covered with fir, larch, and beech, which
clothe them with a beautiful green. The Braar
rashes through this pass in an impetuous torrent,
sometimes turning aside to avoid impediment, at
others wearing its way through natural arches
formed during long time by its own incessant force,
and at others leaping over the masses of rock in
falls of from 30 to 60 feet. From almost eveiy
point of view the pass presents a grand and impos-
ing aspect. Seen from the bottom, the long succes-
sion of cataracts looks interminable ; and from the
summit you have a splendid view of the whole pass,
the quiet country and blue hills beyond forming a
placid relief to the grandeur of the rushing and
roaring waters. At a short distance up the pass,
where the pathway is led across it by a bridge, a
little grotto ie placed, through an aperture in which
you obtain a very beautiful and striking view both
above and below. This is lined with the fragrant
heather and the foliage of the birch ; and seats are
placed for the visitors, who are glad of a rest after
having toiled up from below. Higher, on the other
side, is another grotto, from which you get a view of
the topmost series of cataracts, the fall of which is
very great. Formerly the sides of the falls were
not, as they now are, adorned with trees. The fir,
beech, and larch, and other alpine trees, which are
now there, were planted by the late Duke of Athole,
and the current belief is that he did so in compli-
ance with the well-known "Petition" of Burns.
Whether we are indebted to the poet for the planta-
tion or not, certain it is that now, in the words of
Burns, —
" Lofty firs and aslies cool,
The lowly banks o'erspread,
Ajld view deep-bending in the pool
Their shadow's watery bed I
Here fragrant birks in woodbines dresi.
The craggy cliffs adorn,
And for the little songster's nest,
The close embowering thorn."
The Queen and Prince Albert visited the falls of
Braar in the autumn of 1844, during their sojourn
at Blair Athole. Her Majesty was drawn up the
greater part of the pathway in her garden chair, as
the fatigue would have been too great of ascending
to such a height. Lord Glenlyon acted as guide,
and pointed out the beauties of the place to the
royal visitors. Her Majesty was drawn in her chair
up the pathway to the first bridge, where the grotto
affords a beautiful panoramic view of the waterfall,
and she then proceeded across the bridge to the
right side of the pass (as you go up), and ascended
beyond the second grotto up to the very top of the
pass, further indeed than visitors are generally
taken by the ordinary guides. Her Majesty and
the Prince expressed the utmost admiration of the
beauty of the scenery. They could seldom have
seen the falls to greater advantage, owing to the
heavy rains having swollen the Braar to far more
than its ordinary volume of water in summer
weather.
BRUCEHAVEN, a harbour in the parish of In-
verkeithing, adjacent to the village of Limekilns,
Fifeshire.
BUCKLAW, a village 4£ miles north of Strichen,
in Aberdeenshire. It has a post-office under Mint-
law, and a station on the Buchan railway.
BRUIACH (Loch), a lake, about 2 miles long and
1 mile broad, in the parish of Kiltarlity, upwards of
4 miles west of the church of that parish, Inverness-
shire. It has a small island in its middle, and
abounds in trout and char.
BRUNSTANE. See Penicuick.
BRUNSWARK, Burnswark, or Birrensware:,
an isolated and conspicuous hill, on the north bor-
der of the parish of Hoddam, 8 miles north of
Annan, Dumfries-shire. It has an altitude of 740
feet above sea-level, and is famous for two rectan-
gular encampments — still very entire — the forma-
tion of which is ascribed to the Romans under
Agricola. There is a plan of them in Gordon's
Itinerarium Septentrionale, Plate I. From this hill
the great military roads diverge in every direction,
through the southern parts of the kingdom. The
summit of the hill commands an extensive and very
beautiful prospect. On the north the view is con-
fined, and the country barren; to the west, all the
valley is washed by the Annan, and lies open from
BRUNTON.
204
BUCHANNESS.
Moffat to the Solway frith ; on the east, you pene-
tvate far into the wilds of Northumberland, about
the heads of south Tyne; all the low country of
Cumberland lies full before you, gradually rising
from the frith, till the scene terminates in the
romantic falls of Keswick, among which the lofty
Skiddaw, towering pre-eminent, forces itself on your
attention. The lowering Criffel, on the Scottish
side, shuts up the prospect of the less level country
about Dumfries. The frith of Solway adorns the
middle of the plain, and greatly brightens the pros-
pect. Appearing at first as a moderate river, it gra-
dually spreads out to your view; in some places
sending its waters far into the country, which seem
detached like lakes; proceeding on, it widens along
the plain, and expands to a sea. See Hoddam.
BRUNTISLAND. See Buentisland.
BRUNTON, a village in the parish of Criech,
about 5 miles east of Newburgh, Fifeshire. Popu-
lation, 90.
BRUNTON TOWER. See Marjonch.
BRTJNTWOOD (Loch). See Galston.
BRYDEKIRK. See Bridekibk.
BUACHAIL-ETIVE. See Ardchattan.
BUCCLEUCH, an ancient parish now compre-
hended in the parish of Ettrick, Selkirkshire. It
is 13 miles west by south of Hawick. Buccleuch
gives the title of Duke to the ancient and illustrious
family of Scott. In 1663, the Duke of Monmouth,
marrying Anne, Countess of Buccleuch, and assum-
ing her name, was created Duke of Buccleuch, and
the countess was at the same time created Duchess
of Buccleuch. See Ettrick.
BUCHAN, a district of Aberdeenshire, extending
along the coast, from the Ythan nearly to the De-
veron, a distance of above 40 miles. In length
from north to south it is about 27 miles, and from
west to east about 28; superficial area 450 square
miles. It is divided into 21 parishes, of which 13
are in the district of Buchan Proper, sometimes
called Deer ; and 8 are in what is frequently called
the Ellon district. The principal elevation is Mor-
mond hill, altitude 810 feet. The prevailing rock
is granite. Peterhead and Fraserburgh are the
principal towns. Buchan once formed a county of
itself, and an earldom which was vested in the chief
of the Cummins, until their forfeiture in 1309. The
modern peerage of Buchan was created in 1469, and
belongs to the noble family of Erskine, whose seats
are Kirkhill and Amondell in Linlithgowshire, and
Dryburgh Abbey in Berwickshire. Population of
Buchan in 1831," 30,475; in 1861, 41,251. Houses,
7,294.
BUCHAN (Bullees of). See Bullees of
Buchan.
BUCHANAN, a parish in the western extremity
of Stirlingshire. It does not contain any post- office
station, but reaches on the south-east to the near
vicinity of the post-town of Drymen. It is bounded
on the north by Perthshire and Loch Katrine ; on
the east by Perthshire and the parish of Drymen ;
on the south by Dumbartonshire, from which it is
separated by the Endrick river ; and along the whole
of its western side by Loch Lomond. It has been
reckoned 24 miles long, and 6 in extreme breadth.
One head-branch of the Forth has its source in the
upper end of this parish, in a small burn which
runs down Glenguoi into Glendow, and by the addi-
tion of several burns in the latter glen, is consider-
ably increased. At the lower end of the glen —
which begins at the root of Benlomond, and extends
5 or 6 miles east — it is called the water of Dow,
and below that the water of Duchray. See Foeth
(The). The Endrick, on the southern boundary,
fii.ws in beautiful curves through fertile haughs,
and falls into the lower part of Loch Lomond. This
river, in the winter-season, when the loch is full,
occasionally covers a part of the lower grounds on
both sides, in the parishes of Buchanan and Kilmar-
onock. In 1782, its haughs were covered with
water, and immediately after, there came snow and
intense frost, so that in some places people walked
on the ice above the standing com. The Grampians
project into this parish, and occupy a large propor-
tion of its central and northern districts. There is
one pretty high hill in the lower part of the parish
called the Conic hill ; but the highest elevation is
Benlomond, in the upper end of the parish. See
Benlomond. Though Loch Lomond cannot be said
to belong to any one parish, yet as the parish of
Buchanan extends 16 or 17 miles up the side of the
loch, and several of the islands make a part of it,
the greater share of the loch may be assigned to
the parish of Buchanan. See Loch Lomond, Inch-
Cailliach, Inch-Muerin, Inch-Fad, Inch-Ceuin,
and Inch-Tore. In the lower end of the parish, on
a small tributary of the Endrick, is the house of
Buchanan. This place, for many centuries, be-
longed to Buchanan of that ilk, and was the seat of
that ancient family, but was purchased in 1 682 by
the noble family of Montrose. It was totally de-
stroyed by an accidental fire in January, 1850,
while the Duke and family were absent. At Inver-
snaid, in the upper part of the parish, there was a
fort built near midway between Loch Lomond and
Loch Katrine ; the design of which was to guard
the pass between the two lochs. See Inveesnaid.
In Craigrostan there are several caves known by
the names of the most remarkable persons who used
to frequent them. About ten-elevenths of the en-
tire area of the parish are either waste land or upland
pasture. The total yearly value of raw produce
was estimated in 1841 at £10,754. Assessed pro-
perty in 1860, £6,710. There is a chemical work
at Balmaha. Much facility of communication is
enjoyed by means of the steam-boats on Loch Lo-
mond. Population in 1831, 787; in 1861, 705.
Houses, 127.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton,
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Duke
of Montrose. Stipend, £156' 12s. 8d. ; glebe, £10.
Schoolmaster's salary, £50. The church is situated
about 3 miles from the south-eastern, and 18 from
the north-western boundary of the parish. It was
repaired in 1828 ; sittings 300. The minister offi-
ciates twice a-year at Rowardennan, and once a-year
at Inversnaid. There are a Society school at Sal-
lochy, and a private school at Inversnaid. This
parish was formerly called Inch-Cailliach, the name
of an island in Loch Lomond, on which the parish-
church stood till the year 1621, when a considerable
part of the parish of Luss — at that time extending
on this side of the Loch — was annexed to the parish
of Inch-Cailliach. Some years after this annexation,
the walls of the church in Inch-Cailliach failing, and
the people likewise finding it by no means conve-
nient, especially in stormy weather, to be crossing
over to the island every Sabbath, worship was per-
formed in a church near the house of Buchanan,
which was originally a chapel of ease to the parish
of Luss. From this chapel— which was called the
church or chapel of Buchanan — the whole united
parish came by degrees to be called the parish of
Buchanan.
BUCHANHAVEN, a fishing-village in the parish
of Peterhead, half-a-mile north of the town of Peter-
head, and within the parliamentary burgh boundaries
of that town, Aberdeenshire.
BUCHANNESS, a promontoiy 3 miles south of
Peterhead, on the east coast of Aberdeenshire. It
BUCHANTY.
205
BU1TTLE.
is the most easterly point of the Scottish mainland.
A lighthouse stands on an islet in its vicinity,
flashes once in every fivo seconds, and is seen out
at sea at the distance of 16 nautical miles. See
Peterhead and Bohdam.
BUCHANSTONE, a station on the Great North
of Scotland railway, 1 mile north-west of Oyne.
BUCHANTY, a small village on the river Almond,
in the parish of Fowlis- Wester, Perthshire.
BUCHANY, a village J of a mile north-west of
Doune, in the parish of Kilmadock, Perthshire.
Population, 113.
BUCIIARIN. See Boiiaru.
BUCHLYVIE, a village on the western border of
the parish of Kippen, Stirlingshire. It stands on
the road from Stirling to Dumbarton, 4 miles north-
north-east of Balfron, and has a railway station 15i
miles west of Stirling. It is a burgh of bar-
ony. Fairs are held on the second Tuesday of Feb-
ruary, on the second Tuesday of March, old style,
on the 26th day of June, on the last Tuesday of
July, old style, and on the 18th day of November.
The village has three places of worship, — a chapel
of ease, built in 1836, and containing 352 sittings, —
a Free church, whose total yearly proceeds in 1865
amounted to £51 6s. 5id., — and an United Presby-
terian church, built in 1751, and containing 554
sittings. Population, 339.
BUCK OF CABRACH. See Auchindoir.
BUCKIIAVEN, a large fishing-village with a
post-office in the parish of Wemyss, 2 miles south-
west of Leven, and ii north-east of Dysart, Fifeshire.
It consists of a group of cottages, apparently scat-
tered at random over a steep ascent from the shore,
and thickly interspersed with boats, oars, nets, an-
chors, dungsteads, and the other accompaniments
of a fishing-village. With the exception of a few
weavers, the inhabitants are all engaged in catching
or retailing fish, and are proverbially industrious
and expert at their calling. They have not a few
peculiar traits of character and appearance, and are
said to he descended from the crew of a Brabant
vessel which was wrecked on this coast in the reign
of Philip II. They were severely satirised, upwards
of a century ago, in a pamphlet entitled ' History of
the College of Buckhaven, or the Sayings of Wise
Willie and Witty Eppie.' Defoe says respecting
Buckhaven, " It is inhabited by fishermen, who are
employed wholly in catching fresh fish every day in
the firth, and carrying them to Leith and Edinburgh
markets. The buildings are but a miserable row of
cottages ; yet there is scarce a poor man in it ; but
they are in general so very clownish, that to be of
the college of Buckhaven is become a proverb.
Here we saw the shore of the sea covered with
shrimps like a thin snow ; and as you rode among
them, they would rise like a kind of dust, and hop
like grasshoppers, being scared by the footing of
the horse. The fishermen of this town have a great
many boats of all sizes, which lie upon the beach
unrigged, ready to be fitted out every year for the
herring-season, in which they have a very great
share." The value of the boats and nets, presently
belonging to this industrious colony, is supposed to
exceed £20,000. An United Presbyterian congre-
gation has been in existence here for half-a-eentury.
The church accommodates 600, and is usually well-
attended by the fishermen, excepting about seven
weeks in July and August during the herring-fish-
ery. A new pier and harbour has recently been
formed here under the auspices of the Board of
Fisheries. Population in 1841, 1,526; in 1861,
1,965.
BUCKHOLMSIDE, a village in the parish of
Melrose, Roxburghshire. It stands on Gala Water,
and is a suburb of the town of Galashiels. Popula
tion in 1851, 396. See Galashiels.
BUCKIE, a large fishing-village with a post-
office in the parish of Rathven, 4 miles east of Spey-
niouth, and 5 west by south of Cullen, Banffshire.
Buckie burn descends from uplands on the south
side of the parish, runs about 5 miles northward,
and then bisects the village just before falling into
the sea. The section of the village on the west
side of the burn, is called Nether Buckie, and
has been a fishing-station for about two centuries ;
the other section is called Easter Buckie, and was
probably founded a good deal later. They belong
to two different proprietors, — the burn being a
boundary between two estates. The village has an
office of the North of Scotland Bank. Here also
are a chapel of ease, containing 800 sittings ; a Free
church, whose total yearly proceeds in 1$65 amount-
ed to £181 16s.; an Episcopalian chapel, containing
200 sittings ; and a Roman Catholic chapel, con-
taining 400 sittings. The harbour at the village is
used principally by the fishermen, but serves ,-<l^o
in summer for the landing of coals and salt. The
number of fishing-boats belonging to this place in
1842 was 117 large and 28 small. Population in
1841, 2,165; in 1861, 2,798. Houses, 526.
BUCKIE-DEN. See Lunan.
BUCKLERHEAD, a hamlet in the parish of
Murroes, Forfarshire.
BUCKLYVIE. See Buchxyvie.
BUCKNY (The). See Clotty.
BUDDON BURN. See Monifieth.
BUDDONNESS, the promontory on the north
side of the entrance of the frith of Tay. It is in
the parish of Barrie, Forfarshire. See Barbie and
Tay (The).
BUDDO-ROCK, a dangerous rock, in St. An-
drew's bay, about 2 miles from the beach, on the
east coast of Fifeshire.
BU1TTLE, a parish, containing the village and
port of Palnackie, on the seaboard of Kirkcudbright-
shire. It is bounded on the south by the bay of
Orchardton, and on other sides by the parishes of
Rerrick, Kelton, Crossniichael, Urr, and Colvend.
Castle-Douglas, situated about 1J mile beyond the
north-western boundary, is the post-town. The
length of the parish southward is about 10 miles;
and the average breadth is about 3 miles. A small
stream, terminating in a little estuary, forms the
boundary with Rerrick ; and the lower part of the
river Urr, down to its mouth, forms the boundary
with Colvend. The surface of the parish is un-
equal, but the hills are not of great height; they
are covered with verdure, and most of them exhibit
marks of tillage to the very top. The soil is fertile.
The average rent of arable land varies from 15s. to
30s. per acre. There are 15 considerable landown-
ers, 7 of whom are resident. Nearly 1,000 acres
are under wood. The coast abounds with fish of all
kinds. Rock crystal, talc, and spar, are frequently
met with; iron- ore is plentiful ; and granite has been
extensively quarried. Buittle-castle, on the west
side of the Urr, is a considerable rain ; the ditches
and vaults which still remain show it to have been
a place of great extent and strength. When Gal-
loway was an independent state, this was a consi-
derable fortress ; and it seems to have been the fa-
vourite residence of John Baliol. After belonging
to the Baliols, the Cummings, and the Douglasses,
it appears to have become the property of the Len-
noxes of Caillie. It now belongs to Murray of
Broughton, the representative of the Caillie family.
There is a vitrified fort on the top of one of the hill's.
Population in 1831, 1,000; in 1861, 1,165. Houses,
193. Assessed property in 1860, £9,020,
BULAY.
206
BUEDIEHOXTSE.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcudbright
and synod of Galloway. Patron, the Crown. Sti-
pend, £231. 6s. 2d.; glebe, £20. Unappropriated
teinds, £312 2s. 5d. There are two parochial schools,
the masters of which have conjointly a salary of
£69 17s. 6d., with about £25 fees. The church was
built in 1819, and contains 400 sittings. The for-
mer church was a very ancient building, and now
forms a picturesque ivy-clad ruin. There is one
private school.
BULAY (The Greater and the Lesser), two
islets about 2 miles off the southern coast of Skye.
BULLEES-BUCHAN, a small fishing village in
the vicinity of the Bullerg of Buchan, Aberdeen-
shire. Slain's Castle is in the neighbourhood. Popu-
lation of the village, 91.
BULLEES OF BUCHAN, a singular group of
rocks and sea-caves, in the parish of Craden, Aber-
deenshire. " Upon these rocks — those of Dun Buy
— there was nothing that could long detain atten-
tion," says Dr. Johnson, " and we soon turned our
eyes to the Buller, or Bouillior of Buchan, which no
man can see with indifference who has either sense
of danger or delight in rarity. It is a rock perpen-
dicularly tubulated, united on one side with a high
shore, and on the other rising steep to a great height
above the main sea. The top is open, from which
may be seen a dark gulf of water, which flows into
the cavity through a breach made in the lower part
of the enclosing rock. It has the appearance of a
vast well bordered with a wall. The edge of the
Buller is not wide, and to those that walk round,
appears veiy narrow. He that ventures to look
downwards, sees that if his foot should slip, he must
fall from his dreadful elevation upon stones on one
side, or into the water on the other. We, however,
went round, and were glad when the circuit was
completed. When we came down to the sea, we saw
some boats and rowers, and resolved to explore the
Buller at the bottom. We entered the arch which
the water had made, and found ourselves in a place
which — though we could not think ourselves in dan-
ger— we could scarcely survey without some recoil
of the mind. The basin in which we floated was
nearly circular, perhaps 30 yards in diameter. We
were enclosed by a natural wall rising steep on
every side to a height which produced the idea of
insurmountable confinement. The interception of
all lateral light caused a dismal gloom: round us
was a perpendicular rock, — above us the distant
sky, — and below an unknown profundity of water.
If I had any malice against a walking spirit, instead
of laying him in the Bed sea, I would condemn him
to reside in the Buller of Buchan. But terror with-
out danger is only one of the sports of fancy, — a
voluntary agitation of the mind that is permitted no
longer than it pleases. We were soon at leisure to
examine the place with minute inspection, and found
many cavities, which, as the watermen told us,
went backward to a depth which they had never ex-
plored. Their extent we had not time to tiy; they
are said to serve different purposes. Ladies come
hither sometimes in the summer with collations,
and smugglers make them store-houses for clandes-
tine merchandise. It is hardly to be doubted but
the pirates of ancient times often used them as ma-
gazines of arms or repositories of plunder. To the
little vessels used by the Northern rowers, the Bul-
ler may have served as a shelter from storms, and
perhaps as a retreat from enemies; the entrance
might have been stopped, or guarded with little diffi-
culty, and though the vessels that were stationed
within would have been battered with stones
showered on them from above, yet the crews would
have lain safe in the caverns."
BULLION'S WELL. See Ecclesmachan.
BUNAVOULINS, a post-office station, subordi-
nate to Oban, Argyleshire.
BUNAWE, a village with a post-office on the
western verge of the parish of Glenorchy, Argyle-
shire. It stands on the right bank of the river Awe,
immediately above its entrance into Loch Etive, 13
miles north-west of Dalmally, and about the same
distance east of Oban. Here are the extensive iron
works of the Lorn Furnace Company, which give
employment, at some seasons of the year, to nearly
600 persons. See Aedchattan. A ferry is here
maintained across Loch Etive.
BUNCHEEW, a station on the Highland railway,
3^ miles west of Inverness.
BUNDALLOCH, a fishing village on the north-
east shore of Lochlong, contiguous to the fishing-
village of Dornie, in the parish of Kintail, Boss-
shire. Both villages have a stining character; and
Dornie contains a few good houses. A well-regu-
lated ferry maintains easy communication across
Lochlong with the parish and post-station of Loch-
alsh. Population of Bundalloch and Domie in
1851, 510.
BUNESS, a post-office station in the island of
Unst, Shetland. See Unst.
BUNESSAN. See Bonessan.
BUNKLE and PEESTON, an united parish in
Berwickshire, bounded by Abbey St. Bathans, Cold-
ingham, Chimside, Edrom, Dunse, and Longforma-
cus. Its post-town is Dunse, situated about 2 miles
from the southern boundary. Measured from near
East Brockholes to the paper-mill below Chirnside
mill, the parish is about 5 J miles from north-west to
south-east; and its greatest admeasurement from
east to west is about 5J miles. Its general outline
is triangular. Bunkle Edge, a southern ridge of the
Lammermoor range, runs along the north-western
side of the triangle, and rises to the height of about
700 feet in some points. From the south-eastern
side of this ridge a number of small streams descend
to Chimside burn, a tributary of the Whitadder,
which latter stream skirts the parish on the south-
west and south. Copper has been wrought on the
farm of Hoardweel, sometimes with profit, and at other
times with loss. The superficial area of the parish
is 8,900 Scots acres, of which about 6,600 are arable.
The rental is about £9,000. There are 9 landown-
ers. The total yearly value of raw produce was es-
timated in 1834 at £16,165. Assessed property in
1860, £9,934. The chief antiquity is Billy Castle:
which see. Population in 1831, 748; in 1861, 756.
Houses, 135.— This parish is in the presbytery of
Dunse, and synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Pa-
tron, Lord Douglas. Stipend, £279 15s. Id.; glebe,
£20. Schoolmaster's salary, now is £55, with about
£26 fees. The church was built in 1820, and con-
tains 400 sittings.
BUEDIEHOUSE, a hamlet in the parish of Lib-
erton, Edinburghshire. It stands on a burn of its own
name, and on the road from Edinburgh to Peebles,
3J miles south of Edinburgh. The name is supposed
to be a corruption of Bordeaux- House, and to have
originated either with Queen Mary's French attend-
ants in 1561, or with Protestant refugees from
France after the revocation of the edict of Nantes in
1685. This place is celebrated for its limekilns,
which manufacture about 15,000 bolls of lime an-
nually. There is an immense deposit of limestone
rock here, which has attracted much attention from
geologists, on account of the fossil remains contained
in it. In 1833, a quantity of the bones, teeth, scales,
and apparently part of the muscles of what was con-
jectured to have been a huge species of reptile were
discovered here: the scales retaining their lustre,
BURDIEHOUSE BURN.
i*07
BURLEIGH CASTLE.
and the bones their laminated and porous appear-
ance. These formed the subject of several commu-
nications to the Royal society of Edinburgh, by Dr.
Hibbcrt, who, in his earlier papers, described them
as remains of reptiles. In 1834, at the meeting of
the British association in Edinburgh, these fossils —
which by this time had excited great interest
amongst naturalists — were shown to M. Agassiz.
This gentleman immediately doubted their reptilian
character, and advanced the opinion that they be-
longed to fishes, — to that family of fishes of Ganoid
order which he had denominated Sauroid, from their
numerous affinities to the Saurian reptiles, and
which have as their living type or representative
the Lepidosteus. But of the truth or fallacy of this
opinion no positive evidence could be adduced, for
the scales and the teeth had never yet been found
at Burdiehouse in connexion. A few days after-
wards, M. Agassiz, in company with Professor
Buckland, visited the Leeds museum, where he found
some fine fossils presenting the same scales and the
same teeth as those of Burdiehouse, conjoined in the
same individual. It is therefore no longer a conjec-
ture that they might belong to the same animal.
And in these self-same specimens we have the hyoid
and branchiostic apparatus of bones (a series of bones
connected with the gills, an indubitable character
of fishes) ; it is therefore no longer a conjecture that
the Burdiehouse fossils were the remains of fishes
and not of reptiles. Thus was dissipated the illusion
founded on the Burdiehouse fossils that Saurian
reptiles existed in the carboniferous era. To this
animal M. Agassiz assigned the name of Mega-
lichthys.
BURDIEHOUSE BURN, a rivulet of Edinburgh-
shire, which rises on the northern shoulders of the
Pentland Hills in the parish of Colinton, runs 3J
miles eastward to Burdiehouse, and 5 miles thence
north-eastward to the frith of Forth between Joppa
and Fisherrow.
BURG. See Krr.FixiCHEx.
BURGEE. See Rafford.
BURGH-HEAD, a promontory and a village,
with a sea-port and post-office, in the parish of
Duffus, Morayshire, 8 miles north-west of Elgin,
and 18 miles, by sea, east of Cromarty. The pro-
montory projects north-westward about three-fourths
of a mile from the adjacent coast-line, rising at first
with a very slight ascent from the contiguous low
country, but terminating in a round hill which attains
an altitude of SO feet or upwards above sea-level,
and has a precipitous and rocky sea-front. There
are on this hill vestiges of an ancient fortification
which was long supposed to have been a Danish
burgh, but was proved, between 40 and 50 years
ago, by the discovery of a Roman bath and a
Roman piece of sculpture, to have been Roman;
and it seems highly probable that this promontory
is the Ultima Ptoroton mentioned by Richard of
Cirencester. The village stands on the south-west
slope of the promontory. It is laid out on a regular
plan, and the houses are substantially built of free-
stone, and slated. It is the principal herring-fishing
station in Moray. There is also a salmon-fishery
here. The harbour consists of a basin about 200
yards long and 50 yards wide, the entrance fronting
westward or towards Cromarty. This basin or
artificial harbour, was completed in the summer of
1809, and has been found very useful, especially as
a station for passage-vessels which keep up a com-
munication with the Little Ferry in Sutherland,
distant about nine leagues. Trading-vessels also
ply to distant ports, and the Leith and Inver-
ness steamers call here. The village is much fre-
quented in summer as a watering-place ; it com-
municates with the Highland railway by a branch
to it at Alves, and it has a suit of baths, an ex-
cellent inn, a public reading-room, commodious and
comfortable lodging-houses, and healthy, agreeable
sea-walks. It has also a Free church and an United
Presbyterian church ; and the yearly sum raised in
connexion with the former in 1865 was £209 19s
2^d. Population of the village, 1,099.
BURGH-HEAD, in Wigtonshire. See Bokough-
Head.
BURLEIGH CASTLE, an ancient edifice about J
of a mile south-east of the village of Milnathort, in
the parish of Orwell, Kinross-shire. It is now incor-
porated with the out-buildings of a farm-stead; but
a great part of the exterior walls is still entire. It
seems to have originally formed a square, surrounded
by a wall and ditch. The western side of this square,
consisting of two towers, and an intervening curtain
and gateway, still remain. The tower on the north-
west angle is a large square building : that on the
south-west is of a circular form, and seems to be
the most modern structure of the whole. The castle
was at one period surrounded with fine old trees,
of which a few still linger in the immediate vicinity
of the ruins, but exhibit the ravages of decay and
age. At the distance of about 20 feet from the
west wall of the north-western tower, there stood
till recently a large hollow ash, in which Robert,
only son of the 4th Lord Burleigh, found shelter
and concealment, in 1707, while an outlaw for the
murder of the schoolmaster of Aberdeen. After
the death of his father, this hot-beaded youth en-
gaged in the rebellion of 1715, and the title was
in consequence attainted. Historical notices con-
cerning Burleigh are very scanty. Sibbald tells
us that the laird of Burghly was heritable crowner
of Fife under Queen Mary; and that James
Balfour of Burghly was clerk-register in 1565-6-7,
and president of the session in 1567., Sir James
Balfour informs us that James II., ' Anno nono
regni sui,' gave the castle and barony of Burleigh,
'in liberam baroniam Johanni de Balfour de Bal-
garvie, militi ; ' and that James VI. honoured Sir
Michael Balfour of Burleigh, son to Sir James
Balfour of Montquhanny, clerk-register, and to
Margaret Balfour, heiress of Burleigh, by letters
patent, bearing date at Royston, in England, 7th
August, 1606, with the title of Lord Balfour of
Burleigh, he being then his ambassador to the Duke
of Tuscany and the Duke of Lorrain. In 1644,
Lord Burleigh seems to have been president of the
Scottish parliament and a general of the forces. He
was defeated by the Marquis of Montrose, near
Aberdeen, on September 12th, 1644. He was, also,
one of the committee of parliament attached to the
army under General Baillie, which lost the bloody
field of Kilsyth, through the dissensions of its
leaders. This army was encamped near Burleigh,
some time previous to that disastrous day. [See
Wishart's Wars of Montrose, and Principal Baillie's
interesting Letters and Journals of Affairs, between
1637 and 1662 J — About ninety years ago the castle
and lands of Burleigh were purchased by Genera]
Irwin, and afterwards sold to Thomas Graham,
Esq. of Kinross and Burleigh. — About a mile
north of Lochleven, in this neighbourhood, are sev-
eral remarkable hollows, which, from their shape,
have been denominated the Ships of Burleigh.
One of these is distinguished by the designation
of Lady Burleigh's jointure, and tradition thus re-
lates its story. A Lord Burleigh, it seems, had ob-
tained in marriage a lady less enamoured than pro-
vident. Her applications for an ample settlement
becoming somewhat teasing, his lordship, in rather
an angry mood, desired her to attend him early next
BURNBANK.
208
BURNTISLAND.
day, when he would take her to a field not half-a-
mile distant from the castle, and there settle upon
her all the lands within her view. Avarice is often
credulous, and it was so in this instance. The lady
walked forth with elated expectations; but when,
from a level road, descending a gentle slope, she was
told to look round her, she beheld, with disappointed
emotion, only a verdant circle of about 50 yards in
diameter, finely horizoned with a lofty cope of azure.
Additional interest is given to this place by its wholly
consisting of arable land, and by the romantic ap-
pearance of the mountains, as they sink in the dis-
tance, while you descend the sloping sides of the
dell.
BURLY-GATE. See Largs.
BURNBANK, a fishing village in the parish of
Nigg, Kincardineshire. It has a small harbour, but
only 3 or 4 boats.
BURNBRIDGE, a village in the parish of Muir-
avonside, Stirlingshire.
BURNESS, a parish in the island of Sanda,
Orkney. It comprises the north-west limb of the
island, and is ecclesiastically united to the parish of
Cross. See Sanda and Citoss. A curious tumulus,
described in the 1st vol. of the Edinburgh New
Philosophical Journal, was discovered here in 1824.
Population in 1831, 440; in 1861, 532. Houses, 83.
BURNESS (Loch), a lake of limpid water in the
north of the island of Westray, Orkney.
BURNFOOT, a small harbour in the parish of
Rerrick, Kirkcudbrightshire. See Abbey-Burn and
Rerrick.
BURNFOOT, a small harbour in the parish of
Old Luce, at the head of Luce Bay, within 2 miles
of the village of Glenluce, AVigtonshire. It accom-
modates only small vessels of less than 60 or 70 tons
burden.
BURNHAVEN, a fishing village, near the mouth
of the burn of Invernettie, on the north side of the
bay of Sandford, in the parish of Peterhead, Aber-
deenshire. It is quite modern, and was erected by
George Mudie, Esq. of Meethill, who also at the
cost of about £300 constructed a landing place for
the fishing-boats. Population, about 120.
BURNHEAD, a small village in the parish of
Penpont, Dumfries-shire. It stands within J a mile
of the Nith and about 1J mile west of Thornhill, on
the road from that town to Minihive. Here is an
United Presbyterian church, which was erected in
the year 1800, and contains 700 sittings.
BURNHOUSE, a new village in the parish of
Beith, on the road from the town of Beith to Kil-
marnock, Ayrshire.
BQRNMOUTH, a fishing village, at the bottom
of a steep ravine, in the parish of Ayton, Berwick-
shire. It has a station on the North British railway.
BURNS, a hamlet in the Milton section of the par-
ish of Markinch,Fifeshire.
BURNSIDE, a village in the parish of Kettle,
Fifeshire. It is of quite recent origin, and is situ-
ated a little south-west of the village of Kettle, and
may be regarded as a suburb of it. Population in
1851, about 200.
BURNSIDE and ROADSIDE, two mutually con-
tiguous villages, forming jointly a line of cottages
along the Montrose and Aberdeen highway, a short
distance west of the kirktown of St. Cyrus, in the
parish of St. Cyrus, Kincardineshire. Population
105.
BURNSIDE OF TORRICH, a new neat hamlet,
on the estate of Mr. Mackintosh, in the parish of
Nairn, Nairnshire.
BURNSWARK. See Beunswaek.
BURNTISLAND, a parish containing a town of
its own name on the south coast of Fifeshire. It
lies opposite Granton; and is bounded on the
south by the frith of Forth, and on other sides by
the parishes of Kinghorn and Aberdour. It waj
anciently called Western Kinghorn, but eventually
took the name of the town ; and this was anciently
called Bartland or Bertiland, — the modern name
Burntisland being a corruption. The parish is
about 2J miles long from north to south, and about
2J miles broad; and it contains about 2,900 imperial
acres, — of which 90 are under wood, and between
400 and 500 are in pasture. A plain extends in-
ward from the sea about half-a-mile, when the
ground becomes abruptly and boldly hilly, and the
soil of inferior quality. There are 'about 3 miles of
coast. To the westward of the town, the shore is
rocky; to the eastward, it is sandy. In the sands
are excellent beds of cockles and other shell-fish.
The hills on the north exhibit marks of volcanic
fire. Dunearn is very like an extinguished volcano,
the crater of which has been converted into a small
lake. This hill rises to the height of 695 feet above
sea-level, and commands an extensive and very
gorgeous prospect. On the north side of the
hills are basaltic columns; and on their tops
are cairns and tumuli of great size. The country
around Burntisland is chiefly composed of floetz
rocks and alluvial strata. There is a quarry of ex-
cellent freestone ; and a great extent of the parish
abounds in limestone of the very best quality, in
which curious fossils occur resembling those de-
scribed in our article Burdiehouse. Starlyburn, on
the western boundary, produces beautiful specimens
of stalactites, and incrustations of moss and wood;
and it falls over a high rock amid luxuriant foliage,
into the sea, making a finely picturesque cascade.
There are twelve principal landowners; three of
whom are resident in the handsome seats of Colins-
well, Newbigging, aud Grange. A sandy downs
called the links lies on the east side of the town;
and Craigholm, near the extremity of this, was for
some years the summer residence of the Rev. Dr.
Chalmers. Rossend Castle, situated on an eminence
at the west end of the town, surrounded by planta-
tions, and overhanging the harbour, was built in the
15th century by Durie of Durie, and has passed
through the hands of many different proprietors.
It was long a military strength, and belonged at
one time to Kirkcaldy of Grange, and served at
another as the head-quarters of the armed Cove-
nanters of the circumjacent country; but has been
much altered by modern additions, and now forms
a striking feature in the rich scenery of the district.
The ruins of a fortaliee, called Knockdavie, stand on
a rising-ground at Stenhouse in the north-west part
of the parish. The rains of the original parish
church, bearing marks of great antiquity, stand at
the village of Kirkton ; and around them is a small
burying-ground. There is an extensive distillery
at Grange, about half a mile north of the town,
and there are two corn-mills in the vicinity of the
town, — one of them driven by the sea. The mill-
dam, in this latter case, is a rare object of its class
in Scotland — or perhaps the only one — and might
be advantageously imitated in some low coast dis-
tricts where there is a deficiency of fresh water
power. It has been proposed also as a reservoir for
cargoes of living fish, with the view of maintaining
a regular supply of fresh fish during stress of wea-
ther. The following is a description of it: — " A
quarter of a mile west from Burntisland Harbour,
there is a creek verging inland from Rossend Point,
in an east-north-east direction. The creek is a \ of
a mile in breadth at its entrance, and § of a mile in
length. Exactly about the middle of it there is a
stone wall 12 feet in height and 9 feet broad, built
BURNTISLAND.
209
BURNTISLAND
right across the crock, dividing it into two com-
partments. At two different parts of the wall, and
7 feet from the bottom, there aro flood-gates 14 feet
square. When the flood tide rises up to the gates,
which are hung by strong hinges from the up-part,
the sea presses them open and rushes through with
great impetuosity, filling that part of the creek
above the wall until it is level with high water
mark. When the tide begins to ebb, the gates are
shut by the pressure of the water within the wall
trying to escape. During spring tides the ebb re-
cedes to the entrance of the creek, so that that part
of the creek inside of the wall, and which is the
dam, retains water 5 or 6 feet deep, whilst the outer
part of the creek towards the sea is empty. The
sluice where the water passes through that drives
the. mill-wheel, which is at the southern extremity
of the wall, is 6 feet broad, and is in general hove up
about IS inches. The sluice is about level with the
cell of the flood gates. When the ebb tide has
fallen 30 inches below the sluice, the mill-wheel,
which is undershot, can then be set agoing. At
this time of tide, should the flood have been high,
there is 5 or 6 feet water above the sluice over all
the extent of the dam, which is 12 acres, being
more water than is sufficient to keep the mill going
until the tide again comes in. Of course the mill
cannot be worked during the interval the tide is in
contact with the wheel, which is about 6 hours out
of every 12." Population of the Kirkton of Burnt-
island "in 1841, 251. Population of the parish in
1831, 2,366; in 1861, 3,670. Houses, 447. As-
sessed property in 1865, £15,278 16s. 4d.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the pres-
bytery of Kirkcaldy, and synod of Fife. Patron,
the Crown. Stipend, £185 17s. 4d. ; glebe, £50.
Unappropriated teinds, £70 19s. 9d. Schoolmaster's
salary, £26. The parochial school is also the burgh
school. The parish church was built in 1592, and
contains 900 sittings. The other places of worship
are a Free church, an United Presbyterian church,
and an Episcopalian chapel. Attendance at the
Free church, 450; yearly sum raised in 1865, £526
19s. Attendance at the United Presbyterian church,
from 460 to 500; at the Episcopal church, about 30.
There are six private schools.
The Towx of Buextislasd is a post-town, a sea-
port, and a royal burgh. It stands on the road from
Kirkcaldy to Inverkeithing, and at the Fifeshire
terminus of the Edinburgh and Northern railway,
2& miles west-south-west of Kinghom, 3 east by
north of Aberdour, 4i north of Granton, and 5^
north-north-west of Leith. It is finely situated on
a peninsula, screened on the north by hills in the
form of an amphitheatre, which shelter the harbour.
It consists principaUy of two streets running par-
allel to each other, and terminated by the harbour
on the west, but contains also some lanes. On the
east are some handsome cottages for sea-bathers.
The chief street is broad aud spacious, and contains
a number of respectable buildings. The town was
fortified during the reign of Charles I., and part of
the wall and east port still remain. Kossend Castle,
noticed in our account of the parish, is a conspicuous
object. The parish church is a substantial struc-
ture, said to have been built on the model of one of
the churches of Amsterdam, and is surmounted by a
dumpy unsymmetrical tower. The jail is small and
incommodious, but is seldom used.
The most prominent structures of the town are
those connected with the harbour and the railway.
The harbour — anciently called Partus Gratice — is
the best on the frith of Forth, being large, easily
entered, and well-sheltered. Connected with it is
a large dry dock, having 16J feet water at spring-
tides, wherein a Russian ship of 1,000 tons was re-
paired in 1809, and also a frigate of 32 guns
Government granted £11,000 towards the improve
ment of the port, under the direction of trustees, and
for improving the ferry betwixt this and Leith.
The Duke of Buccleugh' and Sir John Gladstone re-
cently obtained an exclusive right of ferry to and
from Burntisland and the southern shore of the
frith, secured to them for a period of twenty- seven
years, on condition of their constructing a good and
efficient low-water pier capable of being used at all
times of the tide by sufficient steam ferry-boats, and
of maintaining three such boats for the purposes of
the ferry. On Burntisland being adopted as the ter-
minus of the railway, measures were devised for
improving the harbour by forming a breakwater,
by extending the east pier, and by increasing the
depth of the water between the pier heads. The
buildings of the railway terminus adjoin the new
pier, and combine elegance of architecture with
eommodiousness of arrangement. Part of the rail-
way near this passes through deep and extensive
rock-cuts ; and part passes over a beach which was
formerly devoted to sea-bathing, and compensates
for its encroachment on this by handsome stair-
cases down to the water, and by archways for the tide.
A little way down the line are a number of commo-
dious erections which are used as a carnage and
engine depot. On the east pier of the harbour is a
fixed light, which is seen 7 miles off in clear wea-
ther; and in the vicinity of the railway terminus is
the Forth Hotel, — a handsome edifice with all the
convenience of a city establishment.
Before the Union, Burntisland had a good exten
sive commerce; and, in the 17th century, it carried
on a considerable traffic with Holland. Tucker,
however', gives a description of the place and its
vicinity, which leads to the conclusion that the ex-
tent of the trade formerly belonging to it has, in
the common accounts, been over-rated, by attribut-
ing to it alone what belonged to all the little ports
on the coast of Fifeshire. " The trade of these
ports inwards," saj-s he, " is from Norway, the East
country, and sometimes from France with wines;
and outwards with coals and salt, at all times very
small and worth little; for although this be the
bounds of one of the best and richest counties of
Scotland, yet the goodness and riches of the country
arising more from the goodness and fertility of soil
and lands than from any traffic, hath made it the
residence and seat of many of the gentry of that
nation, who have wholly driven out aU but their ten-
ants and peasants, even to the shore side." At that
period, Kinghom, Kirkcaldy, Dysart, Wemyss,
Leven, Ely, St. Monance, Pittenweem, Anstruther,
Crail, St. Andrews, and South Ferry were all counted
as members of the head-port of Burntisland; and
the tonnage of the whole was estimated at 1,291
tons, divided over 46 vessels. After the Union, the
trade of Burntisland fell off, aud little business of
any kind was clone for a long period; subsequently
it again increased; but for some time back it may
be considered as nearly stationary. Fewer vessels
than formerly resort to the harbour as a place of
shelter, probably owing to the improvement of the
other harbours on the coast, and to the custom of
ships running up to the Hope — a road-stead higher
up the frith — in preference to taking a harbour dur-
ing a storm, or while otherwise detained, to save
the harbour-dues. This place was the principal
rendezvous for the herring-fishery until the northern
fishing-stations were opened; hut cooperage and
curing of herrings are now the chief branch of busi-
ness here, and most of the boats employed belong
to other ports of the frith. In some recent years,
n
BURBA.
210
BUTE,
there have been annually cured here, from 16,000
to 18,000 barrels of herrings. Shipbuilding is
carried on to a small extent. There is a large recent
foundry at the side of the links. The town has
a branch office of the National bank. It has also a
subscription library, a parochial library, a golf club,
a total abstinence society, and some charitable
funds. A fair is held on the 10th day of July.
Ample communication is enjoyed by means of fre-
quent regular femes to Granton, and by means of
the railway trains.
The town of Bertiland, or Bryntiland, belonged an-
ciently to the abbey of Dunfermline, and was ex-
changed by James V., in 1541, for some lands in the
neighbourhood, that he might erect it into a royal
burgh. It was proclaimed as such in 1568 ; but a
charter of erection was granted in 1541. In 1587
the different grants and charters in favour of the
burgh were ratified, with consent of parliament. A
charter de novodamus was granted by Charles I. in
1632, and ratified in 1633. The municipal constitu-
ency was only 21 in 1839, being just equal to the
number of councillors under the new municipal act;
in 1865, it was 118. The revenue, in 1811, was
about £300; in 1838-9, £364; in 1864-5, £578.
The property of the burgh consists of the three
hills, the links, about an acre of arable land, the
schoolhouse, town-house, and flesh-market, with
some houses and fens. The debt, in 1834, was
£4,150. The amount of cess annually raised varies
from £11 to £12 on land, and £4 to £5 on trade.
The burgh joins with Kinghorn, Kirkcaldy, and
Dysart, in sending a member to parliament. The
parliamentary constituency in 1852 was 72 ; in 1865,
143. The town has been well supplied with excel-
lent water since 1803. Population of the municipal
burgh in 1841, 1,572 ; iu 1861, 2,595. Houses, 272.
Population of the parliamentary burgh in 1861,
3,143. Houses, 346.
Agricola, the Roman general, on crossing the
Forth into Fifeshire, is thought by some to have
landed at Burntisland. The General Assembly met
here in 1601, when James VI. attended, and reswore
the solemn league and covenant. The inhabitants
of Burntisland were zealous Covenanters, and made
a powerful stand against Cromwell ; and when at
length compelled to surrender their town to that
general, they exacted from him the stipulation that
he would repair its streets and harbour, which he
faithfully fulfilled. In 17 15, the Earl of Mar's forces
occupied this town. In 1746, a large body of
Hessians were encamped here. Burntisland gave
the title — now extinct — of Baron to the family of
Wemyss.
BURNTSHIELDS. See Kilbaechan.
BUEEA, a parish in Shetland, comprising the
islands of House, Burra, Hevera, and Papa, and
united to the parishes of Bressay and Quarff. See
Beessay. House and Burra are sometimes called
respectively East Burra and West Burra. The
former lies about half-a-mile from Quarff, and the
latter about half-a-mile from the former ; but in one
place they approach so near each other as to be
connected by a rude timber bridge. They have-
rocky shores, and consist generally of two hilly
ridges from half-a-mile to a mile in breadth, and re-
spectively 5 and 6 miles in length ; hut House termi-
nates on the south in a long grassy peninsula.
Population of these two islands, 602.
BUREA FIRTH. See Shetland and Unst.
BTJREAVOE, a bay, a post-office station, and the
seat of a presbytery, at the south-eastern extremity
of the island of Yell, Shetland.
BURRAY, a parish in Orkney, comprising the
islands of Burray, Hunda, and Glenisholm, and united
to the parish of South Ronaldshay. See Ronald-
shay. The island of Burray lies between South
Ronaldshay and Mainland, and is separated from the
former by Water Sound, a ferry of about a mile in
breadth. It is 4£ miles long from east to west, and
has an extreme breadth of about 2£ miles, but a
mean breadth of only about 1 mile. Its rocks are
sandstone, sand-flag, and schistose clay. The chief
employment of its inhabitants is fishing. Popula-
tion in 1831, 357; in 1861, 657. Houses, 101.
BUEEELTON, a village with a post-office, in
the parish of Cargill, on the eastern border of Perth-
shire. Here is a Free church; and the sum raised
in connexion with it in 1865 was £84 lid. Fairs are
held here on the first Tuesday of July and of No-
vember. The Scottish Midland Junction railway
passes in the vicinity. Population, 459.
BUEEOW-HEAD. See Boeough-Head.
BUBROW-MOOR. See Borough-Mooe.
BURWICK, a post-office station subordinate to
Kirkwall, Orkney.
BUSBY, a manufacturing village, with a post-
office, partly in the parish of East Kilbride, Lanark-
shire, but chiefly in the parish of Mearns, Eenfrew-
shire. It stands on the White Cart, 6 miles south
by west of Glasgow. Its chief means of support
are a cotton-mill and a print-field. But there is a
rich mineral field around it. The cotton-mill is in
the Renfrewshire section, and Las been in operation
since the year 1780. There is an United Presby-
terian meeting-house in the village, built in 1836,
and containing 400 sittings. Population in 1861
of the Renfrewshire portion of the village 1,337 ; of
the entire village, 1,778.
BUSH, a post-office station subordinate to Aber-
deen.
BUSHYHILL, a village in the parish of Cambus-
lang, Lanarkshire. Most of the inhabitants are
weavers, labourers, and small dealers. Population
393.
BUTE, an island in the frith of Clyde, constitut-
ing a prominent part of Buteshire. It is separated
from Cowal in Argyleshire, by a very narrow chan-
nel called the Kyles of Bdte : see that article. It
extends in length about 16 miles, and is from 3 to
5 in breadth. The general direction is from south-
east to north-west. The northern parts are rocky
and barren, but the southern extremity is fertile,
well-cultivated, and enclosed. The coast is rocky,
and indented with hays, several of which form safe
harbours. The bays of Eothesay, Karnes, and Kil-
chattan, indent the eastern shore ; those of Stravan-
nan, Scalpsie, Ettrick, and Kilmichael, the western.
Stravanhan bay, and that of Kilchattan, run so far in
as to make the south end of Bute an oval peninsula,
in the centre of which rises Mount Blain,ahill whence
a noble prospect may be enjoyed. . The intervening
space is a low sandy plain ; and there is another low
plain between Karnes bay and Ettrick bay. Near
the middle of the island are several small sheets of
water, viz. Lochs Fad, Ascog, Quien, and Auch-
enteery. The first of these is the most extensive
and the most interesting. See Fad (Loch). Pike,
perch, and trout, are found in most of them. Mount
Stewart, the fine seat of the Marquis of Bute, is
situated on the coast, about 4 miles south-east of
Eothesay. See Mount Stewaet. Port Bannatyne,
on the bay of Kames,2Jmiles north-west of Eothe-
say, is a pleasant village, much frequented as a
bathing-place. See Pokt Bannatyne. A little to
the north of it is Karnes' castle, long a seat of the
Bannatynes. At Wester Karnes stands another
castle, formerly belonging to the Spences. At As-
cog, north of Mount Stewart, was also a castle, de-
stroyed about the year 1646 by the Marquis of Ar-
gyle. Other interesting antiquities are described in
the articles Rothesay, Dunuyle, and Blame's (St.)
CiiArEi, ; and the first of these articles describes also
Rothesay, which is the county town of Buteshire. _
The climate of Bute, though rather damp, is
mild and salubrious. Tho mean temperature from
1826 to 1835 inclusive was 50°. The annual quan-
tity of rain is from 35 to 40 inches. The soil of a
great part of the island is favourable for agriculture.
The northern division consists of primary rocks — mi-
caceous schist, clay slate, chlorite schist, and grey-
wacke, often traversed by trap and quartz veins. The
central division is chiefly composed of sandstone,
and the land is low and undulating. The southern
district consists of a ridgy group of hills, terminating
in the promontory of Garroch Head, and consists
wholly of trap rock. The intermediate valleys af-
ford evidence in their coraline sand, clay, and sand
abraded from the rocks of the secondary strata, and
vegetable matter, as well as in their remarkable flat-
ness and lowness, that the sea has flowed through
them at no remote geological period. Bute is there-
fore connected geologically with Argyleshire, by
the primary rocks on the north, and with Ayrshire
by the secondary strata of the south. Bute is ec-
clesiastically divided into the parishes of North
Bute, Bothesay, and Kingarth. It gives the title of
Earl in the peerage of Scotland, and Marquis in the
peerage of the United Kingdom, to a branch of the
family of Stewart, who is proprietor of greater part
of the island, and whose seats, besides Mount Stew-
art, are Dumfries-House in Ayrshire, and Cardiff
Castle in Wales. The earldom was created in 1703,
and the marquisate in 1796. Population of the island
in 1831, 6,830; in 1861, 9,483. Houses, 985.
The western islands of Scotland, and the islands
of Man, Shetland, and Orkney, appear to have been
frequently infested by armies of Scandinavians,
from the year 738 till about the 3'ear 875, when
those islands fell under the dominion of Norway, to
which they in general remained subject, with little
interruption, for many ages. Bute and its neigh-
bouring islands formed a subject of frequent dispute
between the Scots and the Norwegians, if not during
the whole time that the power of the latter subsisted
in these countries, yet for a long period before the
Ebudse or Western isles were ceded to the Crown of
Scotland. By their situation, so near the heart of
the Scottish kingdom, descents could be made from
them by the one power upon the territories of the
other. They were, in this view, more particularly
important to the Norwegians ; as they could, from
hence, more easily annoy the Scots, than from any
other place where they had a regular established
footing. Accordingly, it appears from monuments
whereof vestiges can still be traced out, that great
solicitude was shown to defend the island of Bute.
The castle of Bothesay was a stronghold of such
antiquity that neither record nor tradition seem even
to offer a conjecture as to the time of its original
erection. Malcolm II. made a grant of Bute some-
time before the year 1093, to Walter, the first Lord-
high-steward, who gave it to a younger son, with
whom and his posterity it remained about a century,
when it was re-annexed to the patrimony of the
Lord-high-steward, by the intermarriage of Alexan-
der Steward, with Jean, daughter and heiress of
James, Lord of Bute. In 1228, Husbec, or Ospac,
the feudatory King of the Isles, laid siege to the
castle of Bothesay; but, being bravely repulsed,
was killed in the course of the enterprise, and his
people were obliged to retire after suffering a con-
siderable diminution of their number. Olave. his
successor, procured from the Norwegian monarch a
fleet and army, wherewith he proceeded against
Dun gad, who had set himself up ;is a competitor in
the Isles, and having seized upon his person at
Kiarara, near the sound of Mull, he from thence
came to Bute with 80 ships, and laid siege to Bothe-
say castle. The garrison defended it bravely; and,
by various methods, destroyed about 300 of the bo-
siegers; but tho force of the Norwegians and island-
ers was so great, that, after persevering some time,
they took the castle by sapping, and found in it a
rich booty. How long after this Bute remained
subject to the Norwegians is not precisely known.
When Haco of Norway invaded Scotland in 1263,
this and the other islands in the frith of Clyde were
in the hands of the Scots. These isles he reduced ;
but being defeated at Largs, the whole Western
isles were soon after-wards ceded to Alexander III.,
King of Scotland. In the fatal battle fought at Fal-
kirk betwixt the English and Scots, in 1298, tho
men of Buteshire — known at that time by the name
of the Lord-high-steward's Brandanes — served under
Sir John Stewart, where they were almost wholly
cut off with their valiant leader. Edward of Eng-
land having obtained possession of Bute, kept it
until 1312; when Eobert Bruce took the castle of
Bothesay, and recovered the island. Thither Ed-
ward Baliol came in person, anno 1334, took the
castle, and strengthened its fortifications. It was,
however, soon retaken by the faithful Brandanes of
the Lord-high -steward, and this was one of those
occurrences which first gave a favourable turn to tho
affairs of King Eobert Bruce. Next year the King
of England took an opportunity of repaying tho
Brandanes with usury, the ills they bad done him.
With a view to the extending and securing his con-
quests in Scotland, he fitted out a fleet from Ireland,
consisting of 56 ships. The most signal service,
however, which they did, was to lay waste Bute
and Arran. On the death of David Brace, in Febru-
ary, 1371, he was succeeded by his nephew, Eobert,
the Lord-high-steward, afterwards King Eobert 11.,
from whom the noble family of Bute is lineally de-
scended. Eobert III., son to the former, fixed his
residence in the castle of Bothesay during the latter
part of his life, and died there on the 29th of March,
1406. James V. had also resolved to make this
place a residence, and took some steps towards put-
ting the castle into proper order for his accommoda-
tion; but the troubles of his reign, and his death,
which happened at an early period of his days, pre-
vented this place from again becoming a royal resi-
dence. The island suffered much afterwards from
factions which disturbed the public peace, or from
the inroads of neighbouring clans. Cromwell in his
time garrisoned the castle of Rothesay; and to this
island the unfortunate Archibald, Earl of Argyle,
came with his army in May, 1685, when he had en-
gaged in concert with the Duke of Monmouth to
invade the kingdom. The Earl brought with him
from Holland three small ships laden with arms for
5,000 men, 500 barrels of gunpowder, a number of
cannon, and other implements of war. He ordered
his ships and military stores to an old castle which
stood on the small rock of Eilan-greg, near the
mouth of Loch Biddan, opposite to the north end of
Bute. There he deposited his spare arms and am-
munition under the protection of his ships and the
garrison of 180 men. At this time the inhabitants
of Bute were plundered of almost their whole move-
able property. After Argyle had been about ten
days in Bute, having received notice that a great
body of forces, with three ships of war and some
frigates, were coming to attack him, he hastily re-
treated. The naval armament arrived, and pro-
ceeded on the loth of June to Loch Biddan, where
the Earls frigates immediately struck to them and
BUTE.
212
BYRES.
the castle also surrendered. After removing the
arms and stores into the King's ships, the naval com-
mander caused the castle to be blown up. The
Sari's army, after leaving Bute, thought only how
to get to their respective homes. Argyle himself
was taken prisoner at Inchinnan on the 17th of
June, and being conveyed to Edinburgh, was there
beheaded. Soon after, a brother of Argyle's sur-
prised the castle, and burnt it.
The name Brandanes, it has already been hinted,
was given by some ancient writers to the natives of
Bute. Thus Wyntoun, speaking of the disastrous
battle of Falkirk, says :
The Scottis thare slayne war in that stoure.
Thare Jhon Stwart a-pon fute,
Wyth hym the Brandanys thare of Bute,
And the gentil-men of Fyf
Wyth Makduff, thare tynt the lyf.
Cronykil, B. viiL c. 15, V. 44.
This might almost seem a translation of the lan-
guage of Arnold Blair, chaplain to William Wallace.
" Inter quos de numero nohilium valentissimus miles
Dominus Johannes Senescallus, cum suis Brandanis,
et Comes de Fyfe Macduffe, cum ejusdem incolis,
penitus sunt extincti." [Eelationes A. Blair, p. 2.]
■ — " In this unfortunate battle were slain, on the
Scottish side, John Stewart of Bute, with his Bran-
dans; for so they name them that are taken up to
serve in the wars forth of the Stewart's lands."
[Comment, in Eelationes, p. 36.] The term has
also been extended to the inhabitants of the isle
of Arran. " Brandani, — ita enim ea setate incolse
Arain et Boitse insularum vulgo vocabantur."
[Boeth. Hist. Fol. 330.] The term has Been under-
stood as denoting the military tenants holding of
the Great-steward. Of these 1,200 are said to have
followed Sir John Stewart to the battle of Falkirk.
Bowyer denominates the Brandani de Botha, or
Brandanes of Bute, " nativi homines domini sui Eo-
berti Stewart;" and quotes some monkish Latin
rhymes, composed in honour of these faithful ad-
herents : —
Tales Brandani rex cceli suscipe sanos ;
Ex quibus ornantur, &e.
Still we find nothing as to the reason of the name.
The only probable conjecture we have met with is
that of the accurate D. Macpherson: — " The people
of Bute, and, I believe also of Arran, perhaps so
called in honour of St. Brendan, who seems to have
given his name to the kyle between Arran and Ken-
tire." This Brandan, or, as the name is more com-
monly written, Brendan, was a companion of St.
Columha, who held him in great veneration for his
piety. He died a. d. 577. The parish of Kilbrandon,
in Lom, seems to retain his name. It is probable,
that the inhabitants of Bute and Arran might be
thus denominated, from the idea that they were pe-
culiarly under the guardianship of St. Brendan.
Were we assured of the sufficiency of the authority,
on the ground of which the learned Camden has as-
serted that this worthy had his cell in Bute, we
could not well hesitate as to the origin of the ap-
pellation.
BUTE (Ktles of). See Kvles or Bute.
BUTE (North), a recently constituted parish in
the island of Bute. It comprises the northern part
of the island, and was disjoined wholly from the
parish of Rothesay. A description of it will after-
wards be given as if it still constituted part of that
parish. See the article Rothesay. Population of
the parish of North Bute in 1861, 1,140. Houses,
155.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dunoon, and
synod of Argyle. Patron, the Marquis of Bute.
Stipend, £150, with a manse, and £10 in lieu of a
glebe. The parish church stands in the valley be-
tween Karnes bay and Ettrick bay, about 1 mile
south of Port Bannatyne, and 3J miles north of
Bothesay. It is an elegant structure, and was built
by the Marquis of Bute, in 1836, as an extension
church. It contains about 700 sittings. There is
also a Free church, the total yearly revenue of which
in 1865 was £167 Is. 5*d.
BUTESHIEE, a small county in the west of
Scotland. It lies wholly in the frith of Clyde, and
consists of the islands of Bute, Arran, Big Cumbray,
Little Cumbray, Holy Isle, Pladda, and Inchmar-
nock. These islands are separately described. The
area of the county is about 257 square miles. The
only town or royal burgh is Bothesay. The chief
villages are Port Bannatyne, Kilchattan Bay, and
Kerrycroy in Bute, Brodick and Come in Arran,
and Millport and Newtown in Big Cumbray. There
are six parishes, — five of which are in the synod of
Argyle, and one in the synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
There are seven places of worship belonging to the
Established Church, eight to the Free church, one
to the United Presbyterian church, one to the Be-
formed Presbyterian church, two to the Scottish
Episcopal church, and one to the Congregational
Union. The number of parochial schools in 1834
was 10; of non-parochial schools, 30; of children
attending schools, 2,354. The Sheriff and commis-
sary courts are held every Tuesday at Bothesay.
Quarter sessions are held on the first Tuesday of
March, Ma}% and August, and on the last Tuesday
of October. Sheriff small debt courts are held
weekly at Bothesay, and four times a-year at Bro-
dick and Millport. Justice of peace small debt
courts are held on the first Monday of every month
at Bothesay and Brodick. The valued rent of the
county in 1674 was £15,042 Scots. The annual
value of real property, as assessed in 1815, was
£22,541 ; and as assessed in 1865, £68,218. The
rate of assessment for prisons is |d., and for rogue-
money 2d. per pound. Before the passing of the
Eeform Bill, Buteshire returned a member to par-
liament alternately with Caithness-shire ; but since
that time it has returned a member for itself. The
parliamentary constituency was 380 in 1839, and
510 in 1865. Population in 1801, 11,791 ; in 1811,
12,033; in 1821, 13,797; in 1831, 14,151; in 1841,
15,740; in 1861, 16,331. Inhabited houses in 1861T
2,322; uninhabited, 82 ; building, 26. The number
of persons committed for criminal offences in 1864
was 63. The number of persons on the poor roll in
1864 was 717. The amount raised for the poor in
1864 was £3,564.
BUTT OF LEWIS, the northern extremity of
the island of Lewis. It is in north latitude 58° 35'.
See Lewis.
BUTTERGASK, a village in the Ardoch district
of the parish of Dunblane, Perthshire. Population
about 65.
BUTTERSTONE LOCH, a small lake in the
parish of Caputh, in Perthshire.
BUXBURN, a station on the Great North of Scot-
land railway, 4J miles north-west of Aberdeen.
BYRES, in the parish and county of Haddington,
a barony which belonged for many centuries to the
noble family of Lindsay, ancestors of the present
Earl of Crawford, from whom it was acquired about
the beginning of the 17th century by the Earl of
Haddington. It is now the property of the Earl of
Hopetoun. It is 3 miles north-north-west of Had-
dington. The Earl of Haddington is Baron of Bin-
ning and Byres.
BYTH. See Kino-Edward and Newbyth.
A-FuHartoil <&C: Loh3joji& Edinburgh.
GAAP.
213
CADDElt.
c
CAAF (The), an Ayrshire stream, a tributary of
the G.imock. It vises on the boundaries of Kilbride
and Largs parishes, and flows south-east through
a moorish and featureless district of country, until
within half-a-mile of its junction with the Garnock,
a mile below Dairy, where it rushes through a deep
and rocky dell, in a series of rapids, and finally forms
a fine cascade above 20 feet in height. Its length
of course is about 6 miles.
CABRACH, a parish partly in Banffshire and
partly in Aberdeenshire. It is bounded by the
parishes of Mortlach, Glass, Rhynie, Auehindoir,
Kildrummy, Glenbucket, and Inveraven. Its post-
town is Rhynie. The greatest length of the parish
northward is 12 miles; the greatest breadth is 8
miles; and the area may be about 80 square miles.
Tbe Blackwater, a head-stream of the Deveron,
rises on the southern skirts of the Banffshire
division of the parish, and flows north-east till its
junction with the Deveron at Dalriach; while the
Deveron itself rises in the southern skirts of the
Aberdeenshire portion, to the "west of the Buck of
Cabrach, and flows north-east through Strathde-
veron. See Blackwater (The), and Auchindolr.
The ridge which separates the vales of these two
streams is about 2 miles in breadth. The whole
surface of the parish is mountainous, and the gene-
ral character that of a bleak pastoral district. The
landowners are the Duke of Richmond, Stewart of
Lesmurdie, and Grant of Baldomey. The first of
these has a deer forest in the basin of the Black-
water, and the second has a shooting-box at Les-
murdie Cottage. The real rental is about £2,776.
There is a distillery at Lesmurdie, and another at
Tomnavin. The parish is traversed by the road
from Rhynie to Mortlach. Population in 1831, 978;
in 1861, 794. Houses, 156. Assessed property in
1S60, £2,978.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Alford, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the
Duke of Richmond. Stipend, £158 6s. 7d. ; glebe,
£10. Schoolmaster's salary now is £40. with
about £4 fees, and a share of the Dick bequest.
The parish church stands on the north border of the
Aberdeenshire division, and was built in 1786, and
contains 230 sittings. There is an United Presby-
terian church, which was built in 1796, and con-
tains 210 sittings. Two yearly cattle fairs are
held in July and October. There are four private
schools.
CADBOLL. See Fearn.
CADDAM, a locality where formerly was a vil-
lage, now quite extinct, in the parish of Cupar-
Angus.
CADDER, a parish, containing the post-office
villages of Bishop's Bridge and Moodiesbum, and
also the villages of Cadder, Auchenaim, Auchen-
loch, Chryston, Muirhead, and Mollenburn, on the |
northern border of Lanarkshire. It is bounded on I
the north and north-west by Stirlingshire and Duni- I
bartonshire, and on other sides by the parishes of
New Monkland, Old Monkland, and Barony of
Glasgow. Points in its boundaries are within J of
a mile of Kirkintilloch, within 3 miles of Glasgow,
and about 4 miles from Kilsyth, Cumbernauld, and
Airdrie. Its greatest length north-westward is
about 14 miles; and its mean breadth is fully 4
miles. The river Kelvin runs 6 miles along the
northern boundary. It used to overflow its banks,
in time of rain, and do considerable damage; but
the proprietors on the north side have confined it by
a great earthen mound. The Forth and Clyde canal
runs through the parish for 5 miles, in a line nearly
parallel with the Kelvin. An extensive loch, which
occupied the centre of this parish at the beginning
of last century, was drained by a mine or drift
driven a full mile in length under a hill, and, in
many places, 90 feet below the surface, whereby
120 acres of fine arable ground were gained. There
is another lake, partly in this parish, but chiefly in
New Monkland, called the Bishop's loch, a mile in
length, and one-fourth of a mile in breadth, which
is at present occupied as a reservoir by the Forth
and Clyde canal company. Robroystone loch lies
on the western boundary. The north road from
Glasgow to Edinburgh passes 4 miles through this
parish, and crosses the Forth and Clyde canal about
a mile east of Cadder kirk. The Kirkintilloch rail-
way runs for about 5 miles through the eastern dis-
trict; the Gamkirk and Glasgow railway runs for
an equal distance along the southern side; and the
Edinburgh and Glasgow railway runs nearly across
the centre. There are a number of freestone quar-
ries in the parish: the stone takes a fine polish.
There are also vast quantities of whin rock, and an
inexhaustible rock of limestone. Valuable iron-
stone likewise was recently discovered, and is ex-
tensively wrought. Some coal is wrought, but
to little advantage. There are extensive beds of
fire-clay. The whole face of the country is either
level or but slightly undulated; yet there is a con-
siderable variety of soils, such as light sandy till, a
stiff till, deep black earth, and moss. There are
many landowners; but the principal are Stirling of
Keir and Cadder, Sprot of Garnkirk, Campbell of
Bedlay, and Lamont of Ardlamont and Robroystone.
The yearly value of the mines in the parish, in 1860,
was £3,575 ; of the quarries, £1,465. The principal
residences are the mansions of Cadder, Gamkirk,
Bedlay, Robroystone, Gartloch, Springfield, Gland-
hall, and Gartferry. Antoninus' Wall ran about 4
miles through this parish, and may still be traced
in Cadder wood. In a house at Robroystone which
no longer exists, Sir William Wallace was betrayed
and apprehended, by Sir John Menteith. After he
was overpowered, and before his hands were bound,
it is said, he threw his sword into Robroystone loch.
The circumstances of his apprehension are thus re-
lated by Mr. Carriek in his Life of the hero : — " On
the night of Ihe 5th of August, 1305, Sir William,
and his faithful friend, Kerle, accompanied by the
youth before-mentioned, had betaken themselves to
their lonely retreat at Robroystone ; to which place
their steps had been watched by a spy, who, as
soon as he had observed them enter, returned to his
employers. At the dead hour of midnight, while
the two friends lay fast asleep, the youth, whose
turn it was to watch, cautiously removed the bugle
from the neck of Wallace, and conveyed it, along
with his arms, through an aperture in the wall;
then slowly opening the door, two men-at-arms
silently entered, and, seizing upon Kerle, hurried
CADDEK.
214
CAEELAVEEOCK.'
him from the apartment, and instantly put him to
death. Wallace, awakened by the noise, started to
his feet, and, missing his weapons, became sensible
of his danger, but grasping a large piece of oak,
which had been used for a seat, he struck two of his
assailants dead on the spot, and drove the rest head-
long before him. Seeing the fury to which he was
roused, and the difficulty they would have in taking
him alive, Menteith now advanced to the aperture,
and represented to him the folly of resistance, as the
English, he said, having heard of his place of resort,
and of the plans he had in contemplation, were col-
lected in too large &, force to be withstood; that if
he would accompany him a prisoner to Dumbarton,
he would undertake for the safety of his person ; —
that all the English wished, was to secure the peace
of the country, and to be free from his molestation ;
— adding, that if he consented to go with him, he
should live in his own house in the castle, and he,
Menteith, alone should be his keeper; — that even
now, he would willingly sacrifice his life in his de-
fence ; but that his attendants were too few, and too
ill-appointed, to have any chance of success in con-
tending with the English. He concluded by assur-
ing Wallace, that he had followed in order to use
his influence with his enemies in his behalf, and
that they had listened to him on condition of an im-
mediate surrender ; but that if he did not instantly
comply, the house would soon be in flames about
him. These, and other arguments were urged with
all the seeming sincerity of friendship ; and our pa-
triot, confiding in early recollections, and the pri-
vate understanding that subsisted between them,
allowed himself to be conducted to Dumbarton
castle. On the morrow, however, no Menteith ap-
peared to exert his influence, in order to prevent the
unfortunate hero from being carried from the for-
tress; and strongly fettered, and guarded by a
powerful escort, under the command of Robert de
Clifford and Aymer de Vallence, he was hurried to
the South, by the line of road least exposed to the
chance of a rescue." Population of Cadder in 1831,
3,048; in 1861, 5,948. Houses, 821. Assessed
property in 1860, £5,736.
This parish is in the presbytery of Glasgow and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patrons, the heritors
and kirk-session. Stipend, £280 8s. 5d. ; glebe,
£17 10s. There are three parochial schoolmasters
at respectively Cadder, Chryston, and Auchenairn ;
and the salary of the first has Jaecome £35, with
an amount of about £70 of fees, — of the second, £23
Cs. 8d., with about £30 fees,— of the third, £11 13s.,
with about £50 fees. The parish church was built
in 1830, is a slightly Gothic structure, with a neat
tower, and contains 740 sittings. There is a chapel
of ease at Chryston, containing about 500 sittings.
There is also a Free church at Chryston : attend-
ance, from 200 to 250; yearly sum raised in 1865,
£305 15s. 4|d. There are seven non-parochial
schools. The whole palish, excepting the barony
of Cadder, and the Midtown of Bedlay, formerly be-
longed to the subdeanery of Glasgow. The bishop's
land was called the Baldermonoeh ward, or Monk's
town; and comprehended ten townships. From
this ecclesiastical tenure are derived the names of
several places in the parish, such as: the Bishop's
bridge, the Bishop's moss, and the Bishop's loch.
After the Reformation, the temporalities of the
subdeanery of Glasgow — which consisted of the
parishes of Cadder and Monkland — came into the
possession of the noble families of Hamilton and
Kilmarnock, and were by them transferred to the
college of Glasgow, for a considerable sum of
money, about the year 1656. The parish of Cadder,
as well as that of Monkland, availing itself of the
act 1690, by paying 600 merks Scotch to the college
of Glasgow, obtained a renunciation of the right of
patronage by that body; in consequence of which,
the heritors and elders of the parish became the
electors of the minister.
CADDON WATER, a stream of Selkirkshire.
Its basin constitutes the Selkirkshire portion of the
parish of Stow. The stream rises on the sheep-
farm of Caddon-Head, at the northern extremity of
the county, runs about 7 miles southward and south-
eastward, and falls into the Tweed at the farm of
Caddon-Lee. It is celebrated in song.
CADEMUIR. See Peebles.
CADZOW CASTLE. See Avon (The), and
Hamilton.
CAER-, or Car-, a prefix in many topographical
names of Celtic or Old British origin. It means an
artificial military strength, whether fort or castle.
Some of the names compounded with it are descrip-
tive, and may date back to the olden times of the
Caledonian forts, — as Caerlaveroek, ' the fort adja-
cent to the sea,' Cathcart, originally Carthcart, and
still popularly Carcart, ' the fort of the fertilizing
stream ; ' but others refer to persons or parties in
periods much later, — as Carluke, ' the fort of St.
Luke;' Carmunnock, 'the fort of the monks.'
CAERBANTORIGUM. See Kirkcudbright and
Caerlaverock.
CAERKETAN — vulgarly Kirkyettcm — one of the
Pentland hills, with an altitude of 1,565 feet above
sea-level, in the parish of Colinton, Edinburghshire.
CAERLANRIG, a tract of country, 16 miles in
extreme length, and 6 miles in extreme breadth, on
the south-eastern border of Roxburghshire, formerly
belonging to the parish of Cavers, and now included
in the recently erected parish of Teviothead. See
Cavers and Teviothead.
CAERLAVEROCK, a parish, containing the
post-office villages of Glencaple and Bankend, four
smaller villages, and part of the sea-port village ot
Kelton, on the coast of Dumfries- shire. It is
bounded on the north by Dumfries parish ; on the
east by Lochar Water, which divides it from Ruth-
well ; and on the south and west by the Solway
frith and the river Nith. It is a kind of peninsula,
about 6 miles in length, and from half-a-mile to 2
miles in breadth, formed by the Nith, Lochar Water,
and the Solway frith. The middle and western
parts are hilly ; but the part toward the east is low
and level. The superficial area is 4,640 Scotch
acres, and nearly the whole is arable. The high
land is generally light, dry, and fertile ; interspersed
however with spots of wet, moorish, and shallow
soil. The whole parish lies on a bed of red freestone,
which is quarried in many places. The greater
part of the arable ground is enclosed and well-culti-
vated. The landowners are Maxwell of Nithsdale,
Thorburn of Kelton, Douglas of Bawds, and Connel
ofConheath. The real rental is about £5,827. The
total yearly value of raw produce was estimated in
1835 at £14,312. The assessed property in 1860 was
£5,918. There are two small harbours on the Nith
at Kelton and Glencaple. The Nith and the Lo-
char here abound with fish, especially excellent sal-
mon. Lochar moss, which borders with this parish,
supplies the inhabitants with fuel. Near the mouth
of the Nith are vestiges of a moated triangular cas-
tle, supposed by Camden to be the Caerbantorigum
of Ptolemy. Several moats and Roman encamp-
ments may also be traced. But the most interesting
relic of antiquity is Caerlaverock castle, situated
near the shores of the Solway, about 7 miles below
Dumfries, at the southern extremity of the parish.
"This venerable rain," says the writer of a very
interesting notice of the castle in ' The Edinburgh
CAERLAVEROCK.
215
CAERLAVEROCK.
Literary Gazette for 1829/ "as to its external aspect,
presents much the same appearance that it did in the
days of Pennant and Grose, both of whom have given
a description of it. It is triangular, or shield-like, and
surrounded by a wet ditch. At two of the corners
had been two round towers; that on the western
angle is called Murdoch's ; the other, or eastern, is
demolished. The entrance into the castle-yard lies
through a gateway in the northernmost angle, ma-
chicolated, and flanked by two circular towers.
Over the arch of the gate is the crest of the Max-
wells, with the date of the last repairs, and the
motto, ' I bid ye fair.' The residence of the family
was on the east side, which measures 123 feet. It
is elegantly built, and has three stories ; the doors
and window-cases are handsomely adorned with
sculpture. On the pediments of the lower story
are the coats of arms and initials of the Maxwells,
with different figures and devices ; on the windows
of the second story are representations of legendary
tales; and over the third are fables from Ovid's
Metamorphoses. The opposite side of the court-
yard is plain. In the front-is a handsome staircase
leading to the great hall, which is 90 feet by 2 15.
The surrounding scenery is highly picturesque, and
described with tolerable accuracy in Guy Manner-
ing. To the south lies the Solway, with its waves
still ' crisping and sparkling to the moon-beams ;'
beyond them tower the lofty mountains of Cumber-
land in the vicinity of the lakes. To the east is the
desolate expanse of Lochar moss ; and to the west
the embouchure of the Nith, forming a magnificent
bay, skirted on the opposite side with the woods of
Arbigland, New Abbey, and Kirkconncll. On the
back ground rises Ciiffel, the termination of a chain
of irregular hills that enclose the vale of Nith like an
amphitheatre. The ships, with their white sails,
passing and repassing in the frith, — the monastic
ruin of New Abbey, with its Waterloo monument, —
and the numerous villages ' peeping from among
the trees,' — form altogether a landscape, that for
beauty and variety can hardly be surpassed. To
the stranger we would recommend, in visiting this
ancient castle, on leaving Dumfries, to take the
road along the east bank of the Nith, as both the
shortest and the best, passing the village of Kelton,
C'onheath-house, and Glencaple ; and on his return
to take the eastern road by Bankend." — That the
Romans possessed a station here is certain, from
the remains of a camp on the hill of Wardlaw, a
little to the west of the castle, but who were its
masters from the 6th to the 11th century, history
makes no mention. Sir Robert Douglas informs us,
that Sir John Macuswell acquired the barony of
Caerlaverock about the year 1220 ; but from a gen-
ealogy of the house of Maxwell in our possession —
says the writer already quoted — probably the same
cited by Grose, this castle appears to have been the
principal seat of that family as early as the time of
Malcolm Canmore. Herbert, the eleventh Lord
Maxwell, followed the banner of Bruce, and fell in
the immortal field of Bannockburn. It was in his
time that the castle of Caerlaverock was besieged
and taken by Edward I. in person ; of which a sin-
gularly curious and minute description has been
preserved in a poem written in Norman French,
and composed expressly on the occasion. It is not
certain how long Caerlaverock castle continued in
the hands of the English after its surrender to Ed-
ward I. in July, 1300 ; most probably 12 or 14 years.
Maitland, in his History of Scotland, says it was
retaken by the Scots the following year, but was
soon repossessed by the English after a very long
siege. In 1355 this fortress, with the castle of Dal-
swinton, was taken from the English by Roger
Kirkpatriek of Closeburn, who remained faithful
amidst the general defection of the nobles, and pre-
served the whole territory of Nithsdale in allegiance
to the »Scottish crown. The historian John Major
says ho levelled it with the ground. This, how-
ever, could not be literally true, as it continued to
be inhabited by Kirkpatriek till his death in 1357.
In that year the halls of Caerlaverock witnessed one
of the most atrocious deeds to be found in the annals
of feudal strife, — the murder of the brave Kirkpa-
triek by Sir James Lindsay. These two barons
were the sons of the murderers of the Red dimming,
whom Bruce had poniarded for his treachery in the
church of the Dominican friars at Dumfries, in 1304.
No known cause of quarrel existed between them,
except that Kirkpatriek, as tradition records, had
married a beautiful lady to whom Lindsay was
greatly attached. Lindsay expiated his crime with
his life, being afterwards executed by order of David
II. The castle and baronial lands of Caerlaverock
again reverted to the Maxwells, and we find but
little notice of it for more than two centuries. In
1425, Murdoch, duke of Albany, who was appre-
hended for high treason, was sent to Caerlaverock,
where he remained confined in the tower, called
Murdoch's tower, until he was taken back to Stirling,
where he was beheaded. The Lord Maxwell was
arrested with him, but liberated, and was one of
the conservators of the trace with England in 1438.
Robert, the next Lord Maxwell, is mentioned as
having ' completed the bartyzan of Caerlaverock,'
and made some other repairs. He was slain near
Bannockburn with King James III. in 1488. Sev-
eral of these doughty barons made a conspicuous
figure in the raids and truces of the borders. Ro-
bert the fifth of that name, ' made a road into Eng-
land, and spoiled all Cumberland, in 1526. This
celebrated statesman and warrior was taken prison-
er, with his two brothers, at the rout of the Scots at
Solway moss, in November, 1542, and sent to Lon-
don, but ransomed next year for 1,000 merks.
King James made his residence at that time in
Caerlaverock castle, and was so mortified at this
defeat, that he retired to Falkland, where he died of
grief in about a month after. Henry VIII. was
anxious to get the castles of Caerlaverock, Lochma-
ben, and Langholm, at this time into his possession,
and instructions were given to his envoy, Lord
Wharton, to examine them, ' and knowe their
strength and scituations ;' and in case either of
them was tenable, he was ' ernestly to travaile with
Robert Maxwell for the delyverie of the same into
his majestie's hands, if with money and reward, or
other large offers, the same may be obtayned.'
Sir John Maxwell, son to the preceding, is the per-
son known by the title of Lord Hemes ; he was a
staunch adherent of Queen Mary, fled with her from
Langside, and is the reputed author of a history of
her reign. He was forfeited in parliament, but sen-
tence was deferred ; and though he did not die till
1594, his son John was served heir to his estates in
1569, and next year the castle of Caerlaverock again
experienced the miseries of war. The Earl of Sus-
sex, who was sent by Queen Elizabeth into Scotland
with an army of 15,000 men to support King James
VI. after the death of the Regent Murray, 'took
and cast down the castles of Caerlaverock, fioddam,
Dumfries, Tinwald, Cowhill, and sundry other gen-
tlemen's houses, dependers on the house of Max-
well ; and having brunt the town of Dumfries, they
returned with great spoil into England.' Though
dismantled, Caerlaverock does not appear to have
been entirely ruined, as Camden, in his Britannia,
written about 1607, calls it a weak house of the
barons of Maxwell. Robert, first Earl of Nithsdale,
CAIRN.
216
CAIRNGORM.
created in 1620, once more repaired the fortifications
of Caerlaverock castle in 1638 ; and during the civil
war under Charles I., he adhered to the royal cause,
in which he expended his whole fortune. In 1640
the castle was attacked and hesieged hy the ' cove-
nanted rebells,' under Lieutenant-colonel Home.
The loyal owner resolutely defended the garrison
for upwards of thirteen weeks ; nor did he lay down
his arms, till he received the King's letters, directing
and authorizing him to deliver up that and the cas-
tle of Thrieve upon the best conditions he could ob-
tain. From this time Caerlaverock castle ceased to
be an object of contest, or even a place of habitation,
as the Maxwells transferred their residence to the
Isle of Caerlaverock, a small square tower on the
margin of the Lochar, and near the parish church.
Here Robert the second Earl of Nithsdale, commonly
called the Philosopher, died in 1667. On the at-
tainder of William, fifth Earl of Nithsdale, who
joined in the rebellion of 1715, and made his escape
from the tower of London, through the ingenious
heroism of his wife, the estates were preserved from
forfeiture, being disponed to his son in 1712 ; and
on his dying without male issue, in 1776, they
passed to his daughter, Lady Winifred, who became
sole heiress to his estates; and from her they have
descended to the present Maxwell of Nithsdale.
Dr. John Hutton, first physician to Queen Anne,
was a native of Caerlaverock, and bequeathed £1 ,000
for its educational benefit. Population of the parish
in 1831, 1,271 ; in 1861, 1,248. Houses, 244.
This parish is in the presbytery and synod of
Dumfries. Patron, the Marquis of Queensberry.
Stipend, £177 5s. 9d.; glebe, £32. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50, together with £40 from the proceeds of a
bequest by Dr. Hutton. The church was built in
1781, and contains 470 sittings. There are two non-
parochial schools, each aided by £20 a-year from the
Hutton bequest. There is also a parochial library.
CAILM (Loch). See Beat.
CAIRN, or Cars, any locality, stream, or moun-
tain designated from a cairn or ancient sepulchral
tumulus. The name occurs also as a prefix, in com-
position with other descriptive words, as Carnwath,
' the cairn of the ford,' — Carnock, ' the cairn of the
hill.'
CAIRN. See Cairn-hill and Cairnryan.
CAIRN (The), a small river of Dumfries-shire,
formed by the union of three streams at Minnyhive
in the parish of Glencairn, and flowing south-east-
ward to a confluence with the Glenesland, and thence
through the Cluden to the Nith. See Glencairn.
CAIRNAIG, a stream of Sutherlandshire. It
rises on the mutual border of the parishes of Lairg
and Criech, and flows about 8 miles south-eastward
and eastward to the Fleet on the sands of Torboll,
in the parish of Dornoch.
CAIRNAIRC. See Inverness.
CAIRNAKAY, a lofty range of mountain in
Banffshire, extending from Benrinnes to the glen of
the Aven, and separating the lower part of the par-
ish of In vera ven from Glenlivet.
CAIRNAPPLE, a mountain on the eastern border
of the parish of Torphichen, Linlithgowshire. It is
the central height of the Torphichen and Bathgate
range of hills, and has an altitude of 1,498 feet
above sea-level.
CAIRNAVAIN. See Orwell.
CAIRNBALLOCH. See Alford.
CAIRNBEDDIE, a village in the parish of St.
Martin's, Perthshire. Population in 1851, 44. Here
is a circular elevated ground, about 230 feet in di-
ameter, surrounded by a moat 30 feet wide, and said
to have been the site of a castle of Macbeth. On the
removing of a part of it about. 35 years ago, there
were found handles of swords and a great many
small horse-shoes. Tradition says that Macbeth
resided here immediately before removing to the hill
of Dunsinnan.
CAIRNBUG. See Treshinish Isles.
CAIRNBULG, a headland, an estate, and a fish
ing-village, in the parish of Rathen, Aberdeenshire.
The headland is situated 2£ miles south-east of
Fraserburgh, and 7 miles north-north-west of Eat-
tray-Head. The estate was formerly the property
of the noble family of Fraser, Lord Salton, but is
now the property of a branch of the family of Gor-
don. An old castle on it, formerly used as a mansion,
is now a massive ruin of prodigiously thick walls,
and, owing to the flatness of the surrounding country,
makes a conspicuous appearance. The village of
Cairnbulg stands adjacent to the kindred village of
Inverallochy. A chapel of ease, called Inverallochy
church, was recently opened here. The fishermen
of Cairnbulg migrate during the period of the her-
ring fishery to Fraserburgh. Population in 1861,
427.
CAIRNBURG. See Carniburg.
CAIRNCHUNAIG, a mountain on the mutual
border of the parishes of Kincardine and Bosskeen
in Boss-shire. It has an altitude of about 3,000 feet
above sea-level. Precious stones have been found
on it similar to those of the Cairngorm mountains.
CAIENCONAN, a hill on the western border of
the parish of St. Vigeans, 5J miles distant from the
coast, in Forfarshire. It has an altitude of only
about 550 feet above sea-level, yet commands an
extensive and very rich prospect.
CAIBNDOW, a hamlet with a post-office, in the
parish of Lochgoilhead, Argyleshire. It stands on
the east side of Loch Fyne, near its head, and on
the road from Inverary to Arrochar by Glencroe,
and is distant 10 miles from Inverary, and 36 from
Dumbarton. There is a good inn here; and there
is regular daily communication by steam-boat with
Inverary.
CAIBN-EILAB. See Aberdeenshire.
CAIENESS. See Lonmay.
CAIENEY. See Cairnie.
CAIENEYHILL, a village on the southern bor-
der of the parish of Carnock, Fifeshire. It stands on
the road from Dunfermline to Alloa, 1 mile east by
north of Torrybum, and 3 miles west-south-west of
Dunfermline. Here are a library, a school-house,
a seminary for young ladies, and an United Pres-
byterian church, — the last built in 1752, and con-
taining 400 sittings. Most of the inhabitants are
employed in the linen manufacture. Population in
1861, 415.
CAIENEYHILL, a modem village contiguous
to Bankfoot, in the parish of Auchtergaven, Perth-
shire. Population in 1851, 133. See Bankfoot.
CAIBNFEEG. See Birse.
CAIRNGORM, a conspicuous mountain on the
mutual border of the parish of Kirkmichael in Banff-
shire and the parish of Abernethy in Inverness-shire.
Its summit is only -8 miles north-east of the summit
of Benmacdhu, which is on the border of Aberdeen-
shire, and only 15 miles from Scarsoch, which is on
the border of Perthshire ; and it is surrounded at
near distances by a grand group of the Central
Grampians, which is often called from it the Cairn-
gorm group, and which constitutes a sublime alpine
region, quite comparable in scenery to many of the
romantic, sequestered tracts of Switzerland. Cairn-
gorm proper has an altitude of 4,095 feet above the
level of the sea. It is of a conical shape. The
sides and base are clothed with extensive fir-woods,
while its top is covered almost all the year round
with snow. The ascent from the west end of Glen
CAIRNGREGOR.
217
CAIRNSMUIR.
more to the top of Cairngorm is easy ; and the
traveller will experience little difficulty in descend-
ing upon Loch Aven. Cairngorm is celebrated for
those beautiful rock-crystals of various tints, which
are called Cairngorms, though other places in Scot-
land afford them in great abundance. They are a
species of topaz, much admired by lapidaries. They
were formerly procured in great quantities ; but of
late are more scarce, and arc only found amongst
the debris of the mountain, brought down by the
currents after a storm. They are regular hexagonal
crystals, with a pyramidal top; the other extremity
is rough, and often a part of the rock to which it
has been attached adheres to it. Specimens weigh-
ing 3 or 4 ounces were long ago found,, and were
thought to be wonderful. But in 1850 some of far
larger size, and of remarkable appearance, were
found by a shepherd, well acquainted with the
mountains, and were sold to a jeweller in Inverness.
" The lai-gest of these," says a newspaper notice of
them at the time, " is of a dark violet colour, irre-
gular in its shape, and is apparently a portion only
of a stone of unapproached size. The fragment
weighs not less than 10J pounds of pure crystal.
The others are perfect in shape, and not much less
in weight, and their length is extraordinary. In
hue they vary. The more valuable of them — and
they have cost a large sum — were found in what
a gold hunter of California would call a placer or
pocket. The shepherd by whom they were found
discovered marks of a vein in the rock, and by a
process of reasoning not known to the uninitiated,
arrived at the conclusion that something worth his
pains would probably be found in a certain hollow.
He slept out on the mountain, and dug fully 6 feet
into the soil in the hollow of the ravine, when his
perseverance was rewarded by this posie of precious
stones." Besides the rock-crystals, fine speci-
mens of asbestos covered with calcareous crystal-
lizations, talc, zeolite, crystallized quartz, and spars,
are frequently found on Cairngorm mountain. The
botanical field presented by it is not very rich.
Lichen nivalis, Azalea procumbens, and Polytrichmn
septentrionale, are found upon it. — There is a moun-
tain called the Easter, or Lesser Cairngorm, in
Braemar.
CAIRNGOWER. See Athole.
CAIRNGREGOR, a mountain at the source of
the river Nairn, 8 miles south-east of Loch Ness,
and 16 south of Inverness.
CAIRNHARRAH. See Anwoth.
CAIRN-HILLS, a ridge of uplands on the mutual
border of Edinburghshire and Peebles-shire, extend-
ing south-westward from the Pentland Hills to the
vicinity of Lanarkshire. They may be regarded as
a spur of the Pentlands. East Cairn Hill, on the
southern border of the parish of Mid Calder, is the
highest point of the ridge, and has an altitude of
about 1.800 feet above sea-level.
CAIRNHOLY. See Kirkmabreck.
CAIRNIE, a parish partly in Banffshire, but
chiefly in Aberdeenshire. It contains a post-office
station of its own name ; and the limits of its sides
are distant about 2 miles from the post-town of
Keith on the north-west, and about the same dis-
tance from the post-town of Huntly on the south-
east. It is bounded by the parishes of Keith, Grange,
Rothiemay, Forgue, Huntly, and Glass. Its length
north-eastward is 8 miles ; and its greatest breadth is
nearly 4J miles. The Deverou runs across the north-
east end, and the Isla runs along part of the northern
boundary. The soil of the low grounds is deep and
fertile. The hills, which occupy the central and
western and south-western districts, though once
covered with oak-forests, were for a long time bleak
and naked; but between the year 1839 and the year
1844 the Duke of Richmond planted 2,258 imperial
acres with larch, fir, and spruce. There is a lime-
work at Ardonald. About nine-tenths of the parish
belong to the Duke of Richmond, and the rest is
divided between two proprietors. Assessed pro-
perty in 1860, £6,800. This parish formed part of
the lordship of Strathhogic, granted by Robert
Bruce to Sir Adam Gordon, after the defeat and
attainder of Comyn, Earl of Badenoch. The road
from Huntly to Keith traverses the interior. Pop-
ulation in 1831, 1,796; in 1851, 1,565. Houses, 302.
Population of the Aberdeenshire section in 1831,
1,746; in 1861, 1,490. Houses, 283.
This parish is in the presbytery of Strathbogie,
and synod of Moray; and consists of the united
parishes of Botary, Rathven, and part of Drumdelgy.
Patron, the Duke of Richmond. Stipend, £210 0s.
3d.; glebe, £12 15s. Unappropriated teinds, £217
7s. Schoolmaster's salary has become under the
new act £45, with about £20 fees. The places of
worship in the parish are the parish church and a
Free church ; and the total yearly receipts of the
latter amounted in 1865 to £90 10s. 5d. There are
three private schools.
CAIRNIEHILL. See Cairkeyhill.
CAIRNIEMOUNT, or Caien-o'-Mount, one of the
Grampian mountains on the southern boundary of
the parish of Strachan, Kincardineshire. It separates
that parish from the parishes of Fettercaim and
Fordoun; but the public road from Forfarshire to
Morayshire passes over it.
CAIRNIES (The), a post-office station subordi-
nate to Perth.
CAIRNISH, a post-office station subordinate to
Lochmaddy, in the Outer Hebrides.
CAIRNKINNA. See Penpoxt.
CAIRNMONEARN. See Durris.
CAIRNMORE, a mountain, about 1,808 feet high,
in the parish of Strathdon, Aberdeenshire.
CAIRNMUIR. See Caputh and Ktrkurd.
CAIRN-NA-CUIMHNE. See Braemar.
CAIRN OF HEATHER COW. See Bower.
CAIRN-O'-MOUNT. See Cairniejiount.
CAIRNPAT, of Catrxpiot, a hill in the south ■
eastern part of the parish of Portpatrick, Wigton-
shire, elevated 800 feet above the level of the sea.
It bears all the marks of having been a military
station, being surrounded by three stone-walls and
iutrenchments, with ample spaces between them.
The summit affords a fine view of the Rhins of Gallo-
way ; and it is said, that in clear weather, the coast
of Cumberland can be seen from it.
C AIRNRYAN, a sea-port and post-office village, in
the parish of Inch, Wigtonshire. It stands on the
east shore of Loch Ryan, and on the road from
Stranraer to Ayr, 6J miles north of Stranraer, and 10
south of Ballantrae. It has a good harbour and a
sheltered, small bay, where vessels of any burden
may anchor in perfect safety. The steamers be-
tween Stranraer and Glasgow, and between Belfast
and Glasgow, regularly call here. The village has
a chapel of ease, and a Free church : and the total
yearly receipts of the latter in 1865 amounted to
£56 4s. 2d. Population, 196.
CAIRNSMUIR, a mountain on the mutual border
of the parishes of Minnigaff and Kirkmabreck,
Kirkcudbrightshire. It is not so high as the neigh-
bouring mountain of Meyrick, which has an alti-
tude of 2,500 feet above the ievel of the sea, yet
looks to be nearly as high in consequence of rising
right up from the low flank of the estuary of the
Cree; and it commands a superb prospect along
the sea-hoard and across the Solway. The mansion
of Caimsmuir stands between it and the Cree
CAIKNSMUIR.
218
CAITHNESS.
CAIRNSMUIE, a mountain, of about 2,696 feet of
altitude above sea-level, in the parish of Carsphairn,
on the northern border of Kirkcudbrightshire. It
commands a noble and very extensive prospect on
all sides, except in the direction of the mountain of
Carline's Cairn.
CAIKNTABLE, a mountain on the mutual border
3f the parish of Muirkirk, Ayrshire, and the par-
ish of Douglas, Lanarkshire. See Mdiekirk and.
Douglas.
CAIENTAGGABT, a mountain, of about 3,000
feet of altitude above sea- level, on the mutual bor-
der of the parishes of Glenmuick and Crathie, Aber-
deenshire.
CAIRNTOUL, one of the Central Grampians,
with an altitude of 4,220 feet above sea-level, on the
north-western border of Braemar, Aberdeenshire.
It is a vast, bare, rugged mass, immediately south-
east of Braeriach and south-west of Benmacdhu.
CAIENWILLIAM, a mountain, of about 1,400
feet of altitude above sea-level, on the mutual bor-
der of the parishes of Tough and Monymusk, Aber-
deenshire.
CAIENYFLAPPET CASTLE. See Steath-
HIGLO.
CAIESTON. See Steomness.
CAITHA, a hamlet in the parish of Stow, Edin-
burghshire.
CAITHNESS, or Caithkess-shiee, a county in the
extreme north-east of the mainland of Scotland. It
is divided from Sutherlandshire on the south-west
and west by a range of mountains and high moory
hills, which extend from the Ord of Caithness on the
south, to the shores of the North sea at Drumho-
lasten. It is bounded on the south-east and east by
the Moray frith and the German ocean ; on the north
from Duncansby-head, in 58° 37' N lat., and 3° W
long., to Holbum- head, by the Pentland frith,
dividing it from the Southern isles of Orkney, and
containing the island of Stroma which forms a por-
tion of the shire ; and westwards from Holburn-head
it is bounded by the North sea. Its outline is ir-
regularly five-sided. Its length from north-north-
east to south-south-west is about 40 miles ; its
breadth in the opposite direction, is about 30 miles ;
and its area has been variously estimated at 616,
618, and 690 square miles. Sir John Sinclair com-
puted it, in 1811, to contain 40,000 Scotch acres of
arable land of every description, infield and outfield,
2,000 of meadows or haughs by the sides of streams,
62,000 of green pastures and common downs, 850 of
coppices and small plantations, 3,000 of sand or sea-
beaches, 71,200 of mountains or high moory hills,
130,261 of deep mosses and flat moors, and 6,731 of
streams and fresh-water lakes, in all 316,042 Scotch
acres.
The sea-coast of Caithness, with the exception of
the bays of Sandside, Dtmnet, Duncansby, and Keiss,
is a bold rocky shore, from the Ord all along the
coast, till you reach the point of Drmnholasten.
Sandside bay is about half-a-mile broad, with some
sandy links a little above flood-mark, about the kirk
of Eeay, abounding with rabbits and producing ex-
cellent pasture. Dunnet bay is about 3 miles
across, from the Castle-hill to the hill of Dunnet on
the east side, and it extends about a mile of sandy
links up the country to Greenland. This tract
may be computed at three square miles, principally
a bare barren sand, which produces nothing but
tufts of bent grass — a plant which spreads, and
thus prevents the usual drifting of the sand, if it is
preserved. Eeits, or Keiss bay, is a low sandy
shore for 4 miles from Keiss to Ackergill, and in
some parts the sand has drifted half-a-mile up the
country. There is also a small extent of sandy links
at Freswick bay, and at Duncansby, where thera
are great quantities of sea-shells driven in every
stormy tide.
The western part of the county is hilly, and
chiefly adapted for the. rearing of cattle and sheep ;
but the part towards the east is almost a uniform
plain. The Morven or Berriedale mountains run
along the Latheron coast to the boundary of the
parish of Wick. Another range of high hills
stretches from the Morven mountains along the
boundary with Sutherland, through the parishes of
Eeay and Halkirk on the west, to the North sea.
The Morven or Berriedale mountains are princi-
pally occupied in sheep-pasture. Morven, Scariben,
and the Maiden-Pap mountains, are very high and
steep; and towards their summit — which is from
1,500 to 3,000 feet above the level of the sea-
there is nothing but bare rock. The other moun-
tains are clothed with heather, ling, and deer-hair.
The ridges of hills, or high ground, in the parishes
of Wick, Bower, Watten, Dunnet,#01rig, Thurso,
Eeay, and Halkirk, are principally green pasture,
except the summits of some hills and knolls covered'
with stunted heather, which have been, from time
immemorial, used as common pasture for the horses,
cattle, sheep, geese, and swine of the town-lands in
their vicinity. This is the only ground to which
the denomination of downs is applicable in this
county. The extent of deep peat-bogs, including
peat-moors of every description, is very considerable ;
amounting to upwards of one-third the extent of the
county, a Large tracts of this soil, between the base
of hills in the interior of the county, are flat and
level ; and in the parish of Canisbay, not far even
from the sea-shore, they are of great depth, and so
swampy that cattle cannot travel over some parts
of them. The only ground known by the name of
forest is the ridge of mountains dividing Caithness
from Sutherland, terminating at the Ord of Caith-
ness, which is a part of the Langwell estate. In
this district red deer and roe, as well as black cattle,
were formerly maintained ; but it is now occupied as
a sheep-farm, and stocked with the Cheviot breed of
sheep. Its extent may be about 15,000 acres of
mountain, covered with heather, heath, ling, deer-
hair and wild cotton.
There are no navigable rivers in this county. The
principal river is the water of Thurso, which origi-
nates from springs in the mountains bounding with
Sutherland, and partly from the Latheron hills;
thence it passes through several lakes and small
lochs — 24 of which are in one flat bog in Strathmore,
in the parish of Halkirk, and all send their tributary
streams to this river ; and after traversing a distance
of about 30 miles, it discharges itself into the Pent-
land frith at Thurso bay. Its ancient name, in the
Gaelic language, is AvonSorsa, — that is, 'Horsa's
river; ' and the town of Thurso is called Bal-hwer-
Horsa, — that is, ' the town of Horsa's harbour.'
At the village of Halkirk this river is so rapid that
a fall of 14 feet could be commanded for machinery ;
but, in general, the Thurso is not rapid enough for
falls, or deep enough for navigation, although with
floods of rain it rises from 5 to 7 feet above its nat
ural level. — The next river in point of size is the
water of Wick, originating from the lochs of Wat-
ten, Toftingal, Scarmclate or Stempster, and from
various springs in the moors of the parish of Watten.
whence it runs eastward until it falls into the sea
in the sandy bay of Wick. The tide flows up this
small river for 2 miles, but it is of little depth. — The
water of Forss originates from springs in the moun-
tains between Sutherland and Caithness, and coming
through Loch Kelm, Loch Shurary, &c, runs due
north to Cross-Kirk bay, where it enters the North>
- Ediatraroh.
CAITHNESS.
219
CAITHNESS.
em ocean, dividing the parishes of Eeay and Thurso.
In general, it is ratliei Hat than rapid and shallow
in its meandering course through Stratbglaston.
Tho water of Wester runs through tho parish of
Bower, from lochs and springs eastward to the loch
of Wester, and thence becomes a deep stream for a
short distance to Keiss bay on the German ocean.
There arc various burns, or small streams, besides
those above-mentioned, in the northern and eastern
part of this county ; and on the south side of the
county there are the waters of Dunbeath, Berrie-
dale, and Langwell, with a number of small burns
running from springs in the mountains, which have
a rapid, ragged, and shallow course to the Moray
frith. There are salmon-fishings, besides the great
one on the river Thurso, in the waters of Wick,
Dunbeath and Langwell; the fish of the latter is
considered the firmest and best in Scotland. The
principal lake is the loch of Calder, in Halkirk par-
ish. It is 2 miles long, and from a mile to a quarter
of a mile broad; in the north end it is about 12
fathoms deep. The second is Loch More, in the
highland part of the same parish; it is about l-k
mile long, by about half-a-milo broad, and deep.
The third is the Loch of Watten, about 1A mile
long, and from one-half to a quarter of a mile broad,
but in general rather shallow. Then in order are
the lochs of Hempriggs, Westfield, Stempster-Bower,
Kangag, Stempster-Latheron, Alterwall, Harland,
Dunuet, Mey, Durcn, Kelm, Shurary, Eheard, Tar-
rows, and a group of lochlets, noticed above, in the
parish of Halkirk. All these lakes, rivers, and
burns abound with trout and eels; and in the loch
of Calder there are char about 6 inches long.
In a common near the crown-lands of Scrabster,
in the vicinity of the town of Thurso, some frag-
ments of a coaly nature were discovered; and search
was made in consequence for coal, but without suc-
cess. On the Earl of Caithness's estate, near Bar-
rogil castle, a thin stratum of coaly black stone is
found on a level with the sea, which burns with a
clear flame for some time, but does not consume to
ashes. A seam of coal resembling small English
coal, was found in the parish of Halkirk. About
SO years ago an English company employed two
men for a season at the hill of Acbinnarrass, work-
ing pits or shafts for lead-ore. They dug up several
tons of it ; but although it was allowed to be of good
quality, the work was discontinued. In the year
1S07, some ditchers in the employ of Sir John Sin-
clair, found pieces of solid lead-ore in the bottom of a
ditch ou the east side of the hill of Skinnet. There
is shell-marl in many bogs and lakes in the parishes
of Halkirk, Olrig, Bower, Wick, Watten, Latheron,
and Eeay ; and clay-marl in the parishes of Cannis-
bay, Latheron, and Thurso, of excellent quality.
The greatest quantity of shell-marl, and the most
easy of access, is in the lake or loch of Westfield,
in the parish of Halkirk. Freestone is found in the
greatest perfection and abundance in Caithness.
Flagstones for pavement are very extensively quar-
ried, and are principally shipped for Newcastle and
London.
The soil of the arable land and green pasture,
from the east bank of the water of Forss, on the
north coast to Asseiy, — thence across by the loch
of Calder, and Halkirk, on the river of Thurso, —
thence along that river to Dale, — thence eastward
by Achatibster, Tofringal, Bylbster, Bilbster, Thur-
ster, &c, to the German ocean at Hempriggs, —
thence along the east coast to the water of Wester,
and along that rivulet, by Bower, Alterwall, and
Thurdistoft, to the sea at Castle-hill, on the north
coast, — abounds with clay, incumbent on a horizon-
tal rock, in the western part, and hard till, schistus,
or gravel, on the eastern part of it. In the parish
of Eeay, westward from the banks of the water of
Forss, the arable land and green pasture is in gen-
eral composed of a dark earth, mixed with a crys-
tally sand, which may be denominated a black loam,
incumbent, in general, on a grey freestone, &c, not
so tenacious of moisture as the clay district incum-
bent on a horizontal rock. This species of soil is
productive of corn and grass, both natural and arti-
ficial. The same kind of soil, namely a dark loam,
abounds in the parishes of Dunnet and C'annisbay,
and a part of the parish of Wick, to the water or
river of Wester on the east coast. Near the shore
it is incumbent on a red freestone, in many cases
with perpendicular seams, which cany off the mois-
ture; and at a greater distance from the shore to-
wards the peat mosses and moors, the loam is in-
cumbent on a gritty red gravel or schistus. The
soil along the shore is deep, and capable of produc-
ing good crops. Along the sea-shore from Hemp-
riggs to the Ord of Caithness, comprehending the
coast-side of part of the parish of Wick, and the
parish of Latheron, the arable land and green pas-
ture is chiefly composed of a dark earth, mixed with
gritty sand and fragments of rock : it may be termed
a stony hazel loam, sharp and productive, incum-
bent on a blue whin, or gritty rock of vertical seams,
or seams of considerable declivity, and dry. Upon
the straths or valleys of the remaining district of
the county, comprehending the highland parts of
the parishes of Latheron, Halkirk, and Watten, the
soil is variable ; near the banks of rivers and bums
there is some haugb or meadow-ground composed of
sand and clay, or soil that may be called alluvial.
Further back the soil is a dark loam, of peat-earth
and gravel, and in some partial spots consists of
clay.
For three-fourths of the year the wind in Caith-
ness blows from the west or north-west ; and in the
winter, spring, and autumn, there are frequent hard
gales from that quarter. There being no mountains
or high land on the north side of the county, where
it bounds with the Northern ocean, the inclemency
of the weather in the winter and spring is felt more
severely here than in the neighbouring counties of
Sutherland and Eoss. From the beginning of May
to the middle of June the prevailing wind is usually
from the north-west, with a bleak cloudy sky, which
checks vegetation much. From the end of June to
September the wind is variable from the south-west
to the south-east, and but seldom northerly. Dur-
ing this season vegetation makes, perhaps, a more
rapid progress than it does in counties enjoying, on
the whole, a better climate. This, perhaps, may be
partly accounted for by the check given to vegeta-
tion in May and the beginning of June. It is the
general opinion than no eountym Scotland has more
frequent and heavy rains than the county of Caith-
ness,— the county of Argyle, and the western parts
of Inverness, Eoss, and Sutherland excepted. Dur-
ing the months of October, November, and De-
cember, rain is generally frequent and heavy.
About the end of December, and sometimes earlier,
snow and hard frost commence.
The agriculture of Caithness received a great im-
pulse from the labours of the celebrated Sir John
Sinclair, — though not so great as his personal pro-
prietorship in the county might have led one to
expect, nor so great as his mere second-hand in
fluence produced on not a few other counties in both
Scotland and England. But it afterwards was car-
ried to a high pitch by the exertions of Mr. Traill of
Batter, Mr. Home of Scouthel, and other local im-
provers ; and at length it acquired an eminence much
loftier than the agriculture of some districts in Britain
CAITHNESS.
220
CAITHNESS.
which have a far superior soil and climate. " Farms,"
says W. Sutherland, Esq., in the New Statistical
Account, " are now to be seen in Caithness of as
great extent, and cultivated with equal skill and
success, as in any part of Scotland. A great num-
ber of cattle of the best description are annually
reared and sold in the south ; and it was found at a
late show of the Highland Society at Inverness,
that a great proportion of the prizes were carried off
by competitors from Caithness. A large number of
sheep is also kept; and one gentleman from Caith-
ness, Mr. Paterson of Borlum, it is believed, annu-
ally obtains, at the Falkirk Tryst, the highest prices
given for sheep and lambs. A considerable part
of this county, of course, is still in the possession
of small farmers, paving from £10 to £50 of yearly
rent ; but their condition is improving, and many of
them raise green crops, and pursue a system of rota-
tion. Along the sea coast, the fishermen generally
hold small farms, which they cultivate when at home.
These, of course, are not in the best order; but it
does not seem possible, while the fisheries continue,
to alter this system. Marl is found in considerable
abundance, and of good quality; and the refuse of
the herrings, when properly amalgamated with
some other substances, is much and advantageously
used in bringing the waste lands into a proper sys-
tem for cropping."
The principal branch of industry in Caithness,
next to agriculture, is herring-fishing. There are
indeed some straw-plaiting, some brewing, and a
good deal of distilling ; but almost all other depart-
ments of productive labour are in some way or other
connected with either farming or fish-catching.
The average quantity of herring caught during a
season maybe from 100,000 to 120,000 barrels, and the
number of persons employed wholly or partially in
connexion with the fishery, including boat-builders,
rope-makers, fishermen, coopers, and packers, may
be about 12,000; but they considerably vary every
year, — and are far from exhibiting a healthy trade.
An intelligent resident wrote as follows, respecting
the season of 1846-7, — " There is a large population
in Wick, who, in times past, have depended for the
year's support on the work done during the three
months of the fishing, when they are occupied day
and night, well paid, and in a state of fierce excite-
ment not favourable to prudent and industrious
habits. Along the east coast, from Wick as far
south as the Ord of Caithness, or rather Helmsdale,
in the county of Sutherland, there is a dense popu-
lation, holding small crofts, but depending princi-
pally on the herring fishing, which they prosecute
in the small creeks. The great profits made by the
curing of herrings, and still more perhaps by the
bounties formerly given, tempted many men of
small capital into the business, who, to secure a
sufficient number of boats, made large advances to
the fishermen, first to provide themselves with boats
and nets, and then with provisions. These ad-
vances were made in the month of December or Janu-
ary for fish which might be caught in the following
July or August. The men were kept in debt, to
prevent them from disposing of their fish to any
others than their creditors ; they were thus rendered
idle, excitable and improvident. This season, in
consequence of the glut in the Irish market and the
want of demand in the foreign, from the high duties
and scarcity, the curers have resolved, (many from
want of means,) to make no advances. The men
are, therefore, at a most trying period, suddenly de-
prived of the supplies on which they have been ac-
customed to rely. In former years, their winter
occupations were feasting, drinking, and fighting;
this season there has been no 'feasting, but mere
drinking and fighting at markets, (where nothing
but whiskey was sold,) by men who were seen
drinking for days, when they had not a pound of
meal in their houses. The sea along their coast
abounds with haddocks and other white fish, which
the fishermen from the opposite coast of Banff and
Moray catch in great numbers, in sight of the na-
tives, who, while starving and shivering at the ends
of their houses, talk with contempt of the slavish
occupation of the crews engaged in the winter and
spring fishings." See Wick.
By statutes of David II. the weights and mea-
sures of the county of Caithness were the standards
of Scotland. By the ' Regiarn Majestatem,' chap.
14. " It is statute be King David, that ane comon
and equal weight, quhilk is called the weicht of
Caithness — pondus Cathanias — in buying and sell-
ing, sail be keeped and vsed be all men within this
realm of Scotland." The circumstance that the
weight of Caithness should be the general standard,
is not at all to be wondered at, for the town of
Thurso, in Caithness, was formerly the great mart
for trade between Scotland and Norway, Sweden,
Denmark, and the powers of the Baltic, and in con-
sequence thereof, the weights established in that
town, might, with great propriety, become the stand
ards of the kingdom. Previous to the late act the
tenantry throughout the county used a vessel — by
them called a half-firlot — containing two pecks, and
they gave eight fills of it for a boll of bear or oats.
In measuring corn with it, the vessel was heaped ;
but in measuring meal, the roller was used to take
off all above the stave. The regular corn-measure
of the county was either by firlots or by half-bolls.
The firlot contained one bushel and a half, and three
quarts, Winchester measure, that is 7J per. cent,
above the standard. Bear, oats, and malt, were
measured by this standard; hut the boll of wheat
was understood to be only two-thirds of the bear
boll; oatmeal was sold by the boll of 136 lbs. Dutch,
or eight stones and a half, and bear-meal at nine
stones or 144 lbs. The Dutch pound was 17 J ounces
avoirdupois. All liquids, the produce of the county,
were measured by the pint of 18 gills, or J above
the regular standard; but the pint of spirits was 16
gills. Wool was sold by the stone of 24 lbs. Dutch.
The only royal burgh in Caithness is Wick ; the
only other town is Thurso; and the principal vil-
lages are Halkirk, Lybster, and Castletown. The
most ancient castles in this county are those of Gir-
nigoe and Sinclair, erected by the thanes of Caith-
ness, on a bold narrow promontory separated from
the coast by a channel of little breadth, on the north
side of Noss-head, near Wick. Ackergill tower,
half-a-mile west from castle Gimigoe, a very strong
and ancient fortalice, was built by the Keiths, Earls
Marshal. It is a square tower of several stories of
single apartments each, with projecting turrets in
the angles. There are also Mowat's castle of Fres-
wick, Castle Sinclair of Keiss, and the castle of Old
Wick, or Oliphant's castle, 2 miles south from Wick,
all ruins on the east coast of Caithness. Forse castle
in ruins, the castle of Dunbeath still habitable, and
Berriedale castle in ruins, are on the south-east
coast. Upon the north coast are : Barrogill castle,
the Earl of Caithness's residence, at a small distance
from the shore ; Thurso castle, the seat of Sir George
Sinclair, Bart., built in 1616, and repaired in 1808;
the ruins of a castle at Scrabster, a mile west of
Thurso, once the residence of the bishops of Caith-
ness; a small castle at Brims, still habitable; and
the ruins of a castle at Downreay. There are also
the rains of Brawl castle, and Durlet castle, on thu
river Thurso, in the interior of the county. The
modern houses of Sandside, Westfield, Castlehill,
CAITHNESS.
221
CAITHNESS.
Freswick, Keiss, Hempriggs, Stircock, Lybster,
Swinzie, and Nottingham, along the coast, or near
it, ami of Barrack-house, Standstill, Watten, Bilb-
Bter, Hopeville, Stempster, Tister, Dale, and Calder,
in the interior of the county, are commodiously
built, and in some cases handsomely finished. Among
the antiquities of this county are to be found a va-
riety of those singular structures called Picts' houses.
They are generally of a circular form, in the shape
of a truncated cone, with walls of 9 or 10 feet in
thickness, and surrounded by a deep ditch and a
rampart.
Caithness comprises 10 quoad civilia parishes and
2 quoad sacra parishes; and these constitute the
presbytery of Caithness in the synod of Sutherland
and Caithness. The Established church has also
within the county two chapels of ease; the Free
church has 17 congregations and places of worship,
constituting its presbytery of Caithness; the United
Presbyterian Synod has one place of worship ; the
Reformed Presbyterian Synod has two; the Congre-
gational Union of Scotland has two ; and the Congre-
gational Body, not in connexion with the Congre-
gational Union, has one. In 1837, there were 10
parochial schools, attended by 721 scholars, and 85
non-parochial schools, 50 of which were attended by
2,383 scholars.
Caithness and Sutberlandshire were, from 1756,
until the year 1807, considered as one sheriffdom;
but there is now a sheriff-depute for each. Until
the passing of the Reform act, Caithness was coupled
with Buteshire on the south-west of Scotland; and
each returned a representative alternately. This
half species of franchise was felt to be a grievance
that ought to be remedied. In fact, Buteshire and
Caithness were so distant from each other that no
common interest could be supposed to exist between
tbem, more than between Cornwall and Caithness at
the two extremities of the British isle. The only
other instances of such political representation in
Scotland, were the counties of Kinross and Clack-
mannan, and the counties of Nairn and Cromarty ;
but these were contiguous districts, which had a
common interest in every local political occurrence,
and might therefore, with much more propriety, be
incorporated together. The parliamentary consti-
tuency of Caithness in 1852 was 652. The burgh
of Wick unites with the burghs of Kirkwall, Dor-
noch, Dingwall, Tain, and Cromarty in returning a
member to parliament.
The sheriff-court for the county and the commis-
sary court are held at Wick on every Thursday during
session. Quarter sessions are held at Wick and at
Thurso. Sheriff small debt courts are held at Wick
on every Thursday during session, at Thurso on
every fifth Friday, and at Lybster on every fifth
Thursday. Justice of peace small debt courts are
held at Wick on eveiy second Monday, and at
Thurso on every second Thursday. The valued
rent of the county in 1674 was £37,256 Seots. The
annual value of real property, in 1815, was £35,469,
and in 1866, £102,910. Population in 1801,22,609;
in 1811, 23,419; in 1821, 29,181 ; in 1831, 34,529;
in 1841, 36.343; in 1861,41,111. Inhabited houses
in 1861, 7,457; uninhabited, 92 ; building, 126. The
number of families employed in agriculture in 1831
was 3,580; employed in trade and handicrafts, 1,487;
not comprised in either of these classes, 1,837. The
number of persons committed for criminal offences
in 1864 was 55. The number of persons on the poor
roll in 1864 was 2,021. The amount raised for the
poor in 1849 was £4,713 7s. Oid. from assessment ;
in 1864, £8,463.
The original inhabitants of Caithness, or at least
thone who gave the oldest existing names to places
in the county, were of Celtic origin. But the north-
ern pirates early subdued them; and the Scandina-
vian jarls of Orkney became lords of the ascendant
in the first half of the 10th century, and thence for
several generations held Caithness and Sutherland
ns part of their dominion. See Orkney Islands.
These two districts, while under the jarls, were reck-
oned one region, and were made the seat of a bishop-
ric; but they soon wavered or alternated in their
allegiance between the Orcadian jarls and the Scot-
tish King, and were not long in becoming wholly
subject to the latter. A penny a-year had been
granted by Jarl Harald from each inhabited house
in Caithness and Sutherland; and this revenue was
levied by Andrew, the first bishop of the diocese,
till his decease in 1185. The next bishop was John,
who, it appears, declined to exact the contribution.
But the Pope, Innocent III., summoned him to obe-
dience, and even granted a commission to the bishops
of Orkney and Bosemarkie to compel him to levy
the tax, by the heavy censures of the church.
Whether the poor bishop complied, or attempted to
enforce the exaction of the tax, we are not informed;
hut his subsequent fate, as narrated in the wild
sagas of the Norsemen, might appear incredible,
were it not singularly corroborated by a Roman re-
cord. Jarl Harald Madadson, who had been de-
prived of his Caithness possessions by William the
Lion, King of Scotland, resolved to recover them by
force, and crossed from his Orkney kingdom to
Thurso with a great fleet. There was no force
capable of resistance. The bishop, who was resid-
ing in his palace of Scrabster, went out to meet him,
as the intercessor for the Caithness men; but the
savage jarl took him and cut out his tongue, and
dug out his eyes with a knife. The Saga goes on
to tell us that Bishop John recovered the use of his
tongue and his eyes, by the miraculous intervention
of a native saint, called Trollkama. The latter part
of the story may be pronounced unauthentic; but
the drift of the former part is confirmed by the fol-
lowing letter of Pope Innocent, ascribed to the year
1202, addressed to the bishop of the Orkneys: —
" We have learned by your letters that Lomberd, a
layman, the bearer of these presents, accompanied
his earl on an expedition into Caithness ; that there
the earl's army stormed a castle, killed almost all
who were in it, and took prisoner the bishop of
Caithness; and that this Lomberd (as he says) was
compelled, by some of the earl's soldiery, to cut out
the bishop's tongue. Now, because the sin is great
and grievous, in absolving him according to the
fonn of the church, we have prescribed this penance
for satisfaction of his offence, and to the terror of
others, — that he shall hasten home, and barefooted
and naked except trews and a short woollen vest
without sleeves, having his tongue tied by a string,
and drawn out so as to project beyond his lips, and
the ends of the string bound round his neck, with
rods in his hand, in sight of all men, walk for fif-
teen days successively through his own native dis-
trict (the district of the mutilated bishop), and the
neighbouring country; he shall go to the door of the
church without entering, and there, prostrate on the
earth, undergo discipline with the rod he is to carry;
he is thus to spend each day in silence and fasting,
until evening, when he shall support nature with
bread and water only. After these fifteen days are
passed, he shall prepare within a month to set out
for Jerusalem, and there labour in the service of the
cross for three years; he shall never more bear arms
against Christians; for two years he shall fast every
Friday on bread and water, unless, by the indul-
gence of some discreet bishop, or on account of
bodily infirmity, this abstinence be mitigated. Do
CALAIE.
222
CALDER.
you then receive him returning in this manner, and
see that he observe the penance enjoined him."
William the Lion did not fail to exact the penalty
of such an outrage. In 1197, he collected a mighty
army, crossed the Oikel, and. perhaps, for the first
time, entirely subdued Caithness and Sutherland.
As usual, the blow fell upon the people. The guilty
chief made terms, and left his Caithness subjects to
pay the enormous fine of a fourth of their whole pos-
sessions. The principal families at that time were
the Guns and the De Cheynes ; and three principal
families soon afterwards arose out of the extinction
of the latter, namely, the Sinclairs, the Sutheiiands,
and the Keiths. All the most remarkable events of
subsequent times in Caithness sprang from feuds of
these families with one another, or with some fami-
lies in the Highlands. The Sinclairs soon got up-
permost, and continue still to be uppermost; and
a branch of them was created, in 1455, Earl of Caith-
ness and Baron Berriedale. But in 1672, Campbell
of Glenorehy purchased the earldom from the con-
temporary Earl, and afterwards married his widow ;
and this event led to a sanguinary conflict in the
parish of Wick, which we have noticed in the arti-
cle Altimaelach, and which happily was the last
occurrence of its kind in Caithness.
CAKEMUIR. See Cranston.
CALAIE (The), a furious little stream in the par-
ish of Balquhidder, Perthshire.
CALDER, a large district in the extreme west of
Edinburghshire. The name signifies a wooded
srream, and no doubt was applied to the district on
account of the boskiness of its water-courses, but
was applied, however, in circumstances and at a
date unknown to record. The district may have
been originally one property or barony; but it was
early divided into Calder-Clere on the east and Cal-
der-Comitis on the west ; and the latter, which was
by far the larger division, was afterwards divided
into Mid Calder and West Calder. See the articles
Caldee (East), Calder (Mid), and Calder (West).
CALDEB, a parish hi Lanarkshire. See Caddee.
CALDER, or Cawdor, a parish partly in Inver-
ness-shire, but chiefly in Nairnshire. It contains a
post-office village of its own name. It lies along
the river Nairn to within 2 miles of its mouth, but
sends off a wing to the distance of about 16 miles
across the Findhorn. Its extent along the Nairn is
between 3 and 4 miles ; and its extent in the oppo-
site direction, irrespective of the long wing, varies
from 1 mile to 5 miles. Part of it is intersected by
the burn of Calder, flowing among most beautiful
and romantic scenery to the Nairn. The parts ad-
jacent to the Nairn are cultivated valley, liable to
ovex-flooding; and the other parts may be described
as " rising from the valley into ranges of hills of
considerable elevation, which for some distance up
their sloping sides, are brought under tillage, above
which again rise large plantations of wood, while
these in their turn are succeeded by very wide
tracts of brown and barren heath." A survey in
1782 made the entire area to he 26,000 acres — of
which at least 18,000 were moor and moss; and the
estimate of the writer of the New Statistical Ac-
count in 1842 made it to be 26,878 acres, — of which
about 2,400 were arable, 22,278 were pasture and
moorland, and 2,200 were under wood. The land-
owners are Earl Cawdor and Sir John Rose of
Holme. The chief artificial object — and one of
very high interest — is the Scottish seat of Lord
Cawdor, perched on the rocky brow of the bum of
Cawdor, amid magnificent masses of old oaks and
other venerable trees. The Calders of Calder were
said to be descended from a brother of Macbeth, to
whom, on his assumption of the crown, lie resigned
the thanedom of Calder. They were constables of
the king's house, and resided in the castle of Nairn,
but had a country seat at what is called Old Calder,
half a mile north of the present seat. They received
a licence in 1393 to build the tower of Calder, the
nucleus of the present castle, but do not seem to
have completed it till about fifty years after; and
they ended, at the beginning of the 16th century,
in a young heiress, Muriella Calder. In 1510, this
person, while still a child, and while walking out
with her nurse near the tower of Calder, was cap-
tured by John of Lom and a posse of his Clan-
Campbell. Her uncles pursued and overtook the
division to whose care she had been intrusted, and
would have rescued her but for the presence of mind
of Campbell of Inverliver, who, seeing their ap-
proach, inverted a large camp-kettle as if to conceal
her, and, commanding his seven sons to defend it to
death, hurried on with his prize. The young men
were all slain, and when the Calders lifted up the
kettle no Muriella was to be found. Meanwhile so
much time had been gained, that further pursuit
was useless. The nurse, at the moment the child
was seized, bit off a joint of her little finger in ordei
to mark her identity — no unnecessary precaution,
as appears from Campbell of Auehinbreeh's reply to
one who, in the midst of their felicitations on arriv-
ing safely in Argyle, asked what was to be done
should the child die before she was marriageable?
' She can never die,' said he, ' as long as a red-
haired lassie can be found on either side of Loch-
Awe.' John of Lorn and his captive were after-
wards married; and from them descended in a
direct line the Campbells of Calder, created Baron
Cawdor in 1796 and Earl Cawdor in 1827, and in-
directly the Campbells of Ardchattan, Airds, and
Cluny. The tower of Calder, after coming into the
possession of the Campbells, received great addi-
tions, and took the name of Cawdor Castle. It was
formerly a place of vast strength. Tradition throws
over it much mystery and romance; and history
records that it was the hiding-place of Lord Lovat
after the rebellion. Mr. Fraser Tytler thus de-
scribes this interesting relic of feudal ages: "The
whole of Cawdor Castle is peculiarly calculated to
impress the mind with a retrospect of past ages,
feudal customs, and deeds of darkness. Its iron-
grated doors, its ancient tapestry, hanging loosely
over secret doors and hidden passages, its winding
staircases, its rattling drawbridge, all conspire to
excite the most gloomy imagery in the mind. It
was indeed a fertile spot for the writers of our mo-
dern romances. The mysteries of Udolpho would
vanish in contemplation of the less perspicuous in-
tricacies in the castle of Cawdor. Among these
must be mentioned the secret apartment which so
effectually concealed Lord Lovat from the sight of
his pursuers. Never was any thing so artfully con-
trived. It is impossible for the most discerning
eye, without previous information, to discover the
place of his retreat. And even after being told that
a place of this nature existed in the castle, I doubt
whether it could be discovered. It is placed imme-
diately beneath the rafters in one part of the roof
of the castle. By means of a ladder you are con-
ducted by the side of one part of a sloping roof into
a kind of channel between two, such as frequently
serves to convey rain-water into pipes for a reservoir.
By proceeding along this channel, you arrive at the
foot of a stone-staircase, which leads up one side of
the roof to the right, and is so artfully contrived as
to appear a part of the ornaments of the building
when beheld at a distance. At the end of this
staircase is a room with a single window near the
floor. It is said Lord Lovat used to be conducted
CALDER.
223
CALDER.
to this place when his pursuers approached, the
ladder being removed as soon as lie ascended.
When the search was over, and the inquirers gone,
the ladder was replaced, hy which means he lived
comfortably with the family, and might long have
, remained secure, if he had not quitted the place of
his retreat. A remarkable tradition respecting the
foundation of this castle is worth notice, because
circumstances still remain which plead strongly for
its truth. It is said the original proprietor was
directed by a dream to load an ass with gold, turn
it loose, and, following its footsteps, build a castle
wherever the ass rested. In an age when dreams
were considered as the immediate oracles of heaven,
and their suggestions implicitly attended to, it is
natural to suppose the ass — as tradition relates — re-
ceived its burden and its liberty. After strolling
about from one thistle to another, it arrived at last
beneath the branches of a hawthorn tree, where,
fatigued with the weight upon its back, it knelt
down to rest. The space round the tree was im-
mediately cleared for building, the foundation laid,
and a tower erected: but the tree was preserved,
and remains at this moment a singular memorial of
superstition attended by advantage. The situation
of the castle accidentally proved the most favour-
able that could be chosen; the country round it is
fertile, productive of trees, in a wholesome spot;
and a river, with a clear and rapid current, flows
beneath its walls. The trunk of the tree, with the
knotty protuberances of its branches, is still shown
in a vaulted apartment at the bottom of the princi-
pal tower. Its roots branch out beneath the floor,
and its top penetrates through the vaulted arch of
stone above, in such a manner as to make it appear,
beyond dispute, that the tree stood, as it now does,
before the tower was erected. For ages it has been
a custom for guests in the family to assemble round
it, and drink, ' Success to the hawthorn ; ' that is to
say, in other words, ' Prosperity to the house of
Cawdor ! ' " The chain armour of King Duncan of
Scotland is preserved at Cawdor Castle, and common
tradition asserts that that monarch was murdered
here by Macbeth ; but this tradition is contradicted
by the date of the foundation of the building, — and
also is confronted by the speculations of different
antiquarians who variously assign three other
places as the scene of Duncan's murder, — Inverness
Castle, Glammis Castle, and a hut near Forres.
The village of Calder or Cawdor stands 5£ miles
south-south-west of Nairn. A fair is held here on
the 2d Tuesday of March. Population of the vil-
lage in 1841, 146. There is an extensive distillery
at Brackla. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,184;
in 1861, 1,203 Houses, 250. Assessed property in
1860, £4,086. Population of the Nairnshire section
in 1831, 1,007 ; in 1861, 969. Houses, 203. _
This parish is in the presbytery of Nairn, and
synod of Moray. Patron, Earl Cawdor. Stipend,
£156 0s. 8d. ; glebe, £7. Unappropriated teinds,
£15 5s. 6d. Schoolmaster's salary, £34 4s. 4|d.
The parish church was built in 1619, and repaired
and enlarged in 1830. It is an interesting struc-
ture, with curious entrance-gate and some old in-
scriptions. Sittings, 638. There is a Free church;
attendance, 520 ; yearly sum raised in 1865, £196
15s. lid. There are a Society's school and two other
schools.
CALDER (East), a parish and a village on the
western border of Edinburghshire. The parish was
anciently a rectory, and was imited in 1750 to the
parish of Kikknewton, which see. The church,
which is now a ruin, was dedicated to St. Cuthbert.
The manor of Calder was by Malcolm IV. granted to
Randulph de Clere ; and from him it became known
by the name of Calder-Clere, to distinguish it from
('aider t'omitis, the adjoining manor, the property
of the Earl of Fife. The barony of Cakier-Clere
was forfeited during the succession-war; and was
granted, in 1306, by Kobcrt I. to James Douglas, of
Lothian, the progenitor of the Earls of Morton.
The Earl of Morton takes his title from the lands of
Mortoune in this parish. After the Reformation,
the Earl of Morton — who was now Baron of Calder-
Clere — acquired the advowson of the church, and
with it the right of the monks of Kelso to the tenth
of the multures of the mill of Calder. In 1541, the
barony of Calder-Clere was confirmed by James V.
to James Earl of Morton, without the advowson of
the church. In 1564, James, his successor — the
well-known Morton, who fell under the axe of the
law in 1581 — obtained from the Queen a confirma-
tion of all his lands, with the barony of Calder-
Clere, and the advowson of the churches and
chapels. The village of East Calder stands on the
south road from Edinburgh to Glasgow, about 1
mile east-north-east of Mid-Calder, and about 11
miles west-south-west of Edinburgh. It consists
principally of two rows of houses, extending along
the road, and fitted with gardens behind. Here is
an United Presbyterian church, which was origin-
ally built in 1776. Adjacent to the village is the
ancient burying-ground of the parish, with the ivy-
clad ruin of the ancient church. Eastward of the
village and close to the road is an extensive quarry
of excellent limestone. Popvdation of the village in
1861, 352.
CALDER (Loch). See Caithness.
CALDER (Mid), a parish, containing a post-office
village of its own name, also the village of Bells-
quarry, in the west of Edinburghshire. It is
bounded on the west by West Calder ; on the north
by Linlithgowshire; on the east by East Calder
and Kirknewton ; and on the south by Peebles-shire.
Its length northward is 9 miles; and its .average
breadth is between 2 and 3 miles. Almond Water
goes across the north end; Muirbouseton Water
goes transversely down the northern district ; Lin-
house Water traces most of the northern half of the
eastern boundary; and the headstreams of the Wa-
ter of Leith drain and traverse the southern district.
The area of the parish has been computed at 12,325
imperial acres, and is about one-third arable and
about two-thirds pastoral. The northern district is
generally level, and has for the most part a fertile,
light, dry soil. The southern district is filled with
the heights and vales of the Caim Hills, whose lofti-
est summit has an altitude of about 1,800 feet above
sea-level, and commands an extensive view of the
Lothians and Fifeshire and the Ochils. The real
rental of the parish is about £7,000. The principal
landholder is Lord Torphiehen ; but there are nearly
twenty others. Sandstone, limestone, and whin-
stone, all of excellent quality, are abundant; coal
and rich lead ore have been found; and other use-
fid minerals occur. On the estate of Letham is a
powerful sulphureous spring, similar to that of Har-
rowgate. To the west of the town, on Muirkouse-
ton Water, stands Calder-house, the seat of Lord
Torphiehen. A portrait of John Knox — generally
believed to be genuine — is hung up in the hail or
gallery of this house, where, it is asserted by some,
he dispensed the ordinance of the Lord's supper for
the first time in Scotland after the Reformation. *
* On the back of Lord Torphichen's picture there is written
"Mr. John Knox : The first sacrament of the super given in
Scotland, after the Reformation, was dispensed by him in this
halL" This is not true; for it is proved that the first time the
sacrament of the supper was dispensed in the reformed way In
Scotland, was in the castle of St. Andrews, a. d. 1547, (Ji'Cric
CALDER.
224
CALDER.
A locality in the parish, Bear the village, is cele-
brated as the hirth-place of John Spottiswood, arch-
bishop of St. Andrews. An extensive tract of wood-
land, called Calder- Wood, the property of Lord
Torphichen, lies south-east of Calder House. The
Caledonian railway traverses the parish neaiij at
its central and narrowest part. The road from Edin-
burgh to Glasgow by way of West Calder goes across
the north district ; and the road from Edinburgh to
Lanark by way of Carnwath goes across the south
district. The village of Mid Calder stands on the
Edinburgh and Glasgow road, about 1 mile west-
south-west of East Calder, 4£ miles north-east of
West Calder, and 12 miles west-south-west of Edin-
burgh. Its site is a pleasant eminence on the east
verge of the parish, immediately above the con-
fluence of Almond and Linhouse Waters. Fairs are
held here on the second Tuesday of March and the
second Tuesday of October. Population of the
village about 550. Population of the parish in 1831,
1,489; in 1861, 1,389. Houses, 226. Assessed pro-
perty in 1860, £9,434.
This parish is in the presbytery of Linlithgow,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron,
Lord Torphichen. Stipend, £158 6s. 8d. ; glebe,
£64 10s. Schoolmaster's salary formerly was £34
4s. 4Jd., with fees and other emoluments, making a
total of £136 ; now is £57 1 Os., with fees and other
emoluments. The parish church stands adjacent
to the village, is in good repair, and contains 438
sittings. An United Presbyterian church stands on
the north bank of Almond Water near the village,
was built in 1765, and contains nearly 400 sittings.
There are three private schools, a total abstinence
society, and a mason lodge. The tract which now
forms the parishes of Mid Calder and West Calder
anciently constituted the barony and parish of Cal-
der-Comitis. This extensive barony was possessed
by the Earls of Fife as early as the reign of Mal-
colm IV.; and by them it was enjoyed as low down
as the reign of David II. It then passed to Sir
William Douglas of Douglas, who gave it in free
marriage, with Eleanor his sister, to Sir James de
Sandilands, in 1349. This grant was confirmed by
Duncan, Earl of Fife, and by David II. From that
marriage sprang the family of Sandilands, who ac-
quired the estates of the knights of St. John, at the
Reformation, with the peerage of Torphichen. Before
the Reformation, there was a chapel in the upper part
of this extensive district, which gave name to
Chapeltown, about a mile east from West Calder.
This chapel remained till the reign of Charles I. In
1637, John, Lord Torphichen, was served heir to his
father in the barony of Calder, and to the patronage
of the church. In 1646, this large parish was divided
into two districts, which were named Mid Calder,
and West Calder. The old church was now appro-
priated to Mid Calder ; while the new church was
erected in the upper district, which has given rise
to the kirk-town of West Calder.
CALDER (West), a parish, containing a post-
office village of its own name, in the extreme west
of Edinburghshire. It is bounded on the west and
north-west by Linlithgowshire; on the north-east
and east by the parish of Mid Calder; on the south-
east by Peebles-shire ; and on the south by Lanark-
shire. Its outline is somewhat triangular, with the
base extending eastward, and the apex pointing to
the north. Its length is 10 miles; and its average
p. 50, 1st ed.) The account given by Knox, in his History of the
Keformation, seems to imply that he dispensed this ordinance
in the West country before he did it in Calder-house. These
facts cast a degree of discredit on the authenticity of the pic-
ture, although no doubt exists of the intimacy of Sir James
Bandilands, the ancestor of Lord Torphichen, with the Reformer.
breadth is about 5J miles. The general declination
is to the north-east. Briech Water traces most of
the boundary with Linlithgowshire; and all the
other streams, as well as this, belong to the system
of Almond Water. The southern district consists
of high and moorish grounds for the most part in-
capable of cultivation. From the general elevation
of the ground, being nearly 500 feet above the level
of the sea, it is cold and moist, exposed to storms of
wind and rain from the south and south-west. The
greater part of the parish lies upon coal, and there
is plenty of excellent limestone; ironstone also is
wrought. In the southern extremity stands an old
castle, said to have been fortified by Cromwell ; and
at Castle-Craig are the remains of a Roman camp.
The principal modem residences are Hermand
House, built about the year 1797 by the late Lord
Hermand, Litnefield House and Harburn House,
built about 1804, and Hartwood House, built about
1807. The valued rental amounts to £3,133 Scots,
and is divided among nearly thirty proprietors. The
Caledonian railway goes through the centre of the
parish, and has a station in it for Torphin and West
Calder. The north road from Edinburgh to Lan-
ark lies for about 71 miles within the parish, and
traverses it in a south-westward direction. The vil-
lage of West Calder stands on that road about 2J
miles south by west of the confluence of Briech and
Almond Waters, 4 J miles south-west of Mid Calder,
and 7 miles north-east of Wilsontown. Population
of the village in 1851, 434. Population of the par-
ish in 1831, 1,617; in 1861, 1,927. Houses, 344.
Assessed property in 1860, £9,853.
This parish is in the presbytery of Linlithgow,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron,
John Drysdale, Esq., of Kilrie. Stipend, £158 6s. 7d.;
glebe, £23. Schoolmaster's salary, £34. The par-
ish church was built in 1646, and contains 331 sit-
tings. There is a Free church preaching-station ;
and the total yearly sum raised in connexion with
it in 1865 was £38 18s. 8d. An United Presbyte-
rian church was built in 1795, and contains 498 sit-
tings. There are two private schools, — both of
them for girls.
CALDER (The), a stream of about 8 miles in
length, descending from the Monadhleadh moun-
tains, and falling into the left side of the Spey, in the
parish of Kingussie, Inverness-shire.
CALDER (The), a small river in Renfrewshire,
which has its rise in the moorlands on the borders
of Ayrshire, and running an easterly course of some
miles, intersects the parish of Lochwinnoch, and
falls into the loch of that name, about a mile below
the village.
CALDER (The), a small river of Lanarkshire.
It rises on Elrig moor, in the parish of East Kil-
bride near the boundaiy with Ayrshire. It runs
about 10 miles north-eastward, chiefly between the
parishes of East Kilbride and Cambuslang on the
left, and the parishes of Glassford and Blantyre on
the right, and falls into the Clyde at a place called
Turnwheel, about 3 miles above Clyde Iron Works.
It bears the name of Park Burn in the upper part of
its course, the Calder in the middle part, and the
Rotten Calder in the lower part. It is a rapid and
shallow stream, flowing commonly on a gravelly or
rocky bed, between steep and richly wooded banks;
and several falls or cascades occur in its course.
Mr. Montgomery, in a paper in the Prize Essays of
the Highland Society, says, " Greenstone dykes, in
passing through the porphyry of this elevated and
hilly district, give rise to many waterfalls. The
porphyry decomposes more readily than the green-
stone ; and the streams, crossing the course of the
dykes, carry away the porphyry on their lower side
OALDER.
225
CALEDONIAN CANAL.
whilst the greenstone inneli longer resists the aetion
of the water, and protects the porphyry above. In
some places the streams run parallel to the dykes.
A beautiful instance, of this may be seen at Reeking
Linn, a very wild and romantic fall in the Calder.
The Calder here runs for several hundred yards
parallel to a dyke of very fine-grained greenstone ;
then suddenly bending, 'crosses it, and forms the
linn or spout."
CALDER (Tun North), a small river of Lanark-
shire. It issues from Black Loch on the mutual bor-
der of the parishes of New Monkland and Slaman-
nan, or of the counties of Lanark and Stirling,
about 1 J mile north of the point where these counties
meet the county of Linlithgow ; and it flows about
13 miles south-westward, not reckoning sinuosities,
along the boundary between the parishes of New
Monkland and Old Monkland on the right, and the
parishes of Slamannan, Torphichen, Shotts, and
Bothwell on the left, to a confluence with the Clyde
at Daldowie, a little below the influx of the Rotten
Calder. Its banks, over a great part of its course,
are bold and very beautifully wooded ; and they are
adorned, in several places, with splendid parks and
mansions.
CALDER (The Rotten). See Calder (The).
Lanarkshire.
CALDER (The South), a small river of Lanark-
shire. It rises in the moors near Tarrymuck on the
western border of Linlithgowshire, and flows about
1 1 miles south-westward, not reckoning sinuosities,
along the boundary between the parishes of Shotts
and Bothwell on the right, and the parishes of
Cambusnethan aud Dalziel on the left, to a conflu-
ence with the Clyde at a point about a mile above
Bothwell Bridge. This stream also is richly wood -
ed and beautifully picturesque. The lower part of
it especially is very brilliant. The Wishaw and
Coltness Railway (see that article) is conducted
over it by a magnificent viaduct.
CALDERBANK, a post-town on the southern
border of the parish of Old Monkland, Lanarkshire.
It stands contiguous to another village of the name
of Calderbraes. There is also on the North Calder
an extensive iron factory called the Calder Iron
Works. Population of the villages of Calderbank
and Calderbraes in 1841, 1,064; in 1861, 2,461.
Houses, 206. See Monkland (Old).
CALDHAM, a hamlet, with a flax spinning mill,
in the parish of Marykirk, Kincardineshire. It
stands on the rivulet Luther, and on the road from
Fettercairn to Montrose, 3J miles south-west of
Laurencekirk.
CALDHAM, in Cupar- Angus. See Caddam.
CALDRON. See Lednock (The).
CALDRON-LINN. See Devon (The).
CALDSHILLS. See Cauldshiels.
CALDWELL. See Beith.
CALEDONIA, the ancient name first of the
greater part of the mainland of Inverness-shire and
the mainland of Ross-shire, — next of all parts of the
mainland of Scotland north of the Forth and the
Clyde, — and next of all the mainland country north
of the Tweed and the Eden. See the section " Early
History" in the Introduction to this Gazetteer.
CALEDONIAN CANAL, a magnificent line of
inland navigation through the Great Glen of Scot-
land. That glen extends quite across the kingdom,
directly south-westward, from the Moray frith be-
tween the mouth of the Findhom and the Sutors of
Cromarty to the island of Lismore at the north end
of the Sound of Mull ; and it divides Inverness-shire,
and the Highlands generally, into two nearly equal
parts. The north-east end of it is occupied, to the
extent of about 23 miles, by the upper or narrow
part of the Moray frith ; the south-cast end is occu-
pied, to the extent of about 32 miles, by the sea-
lochs, Loch Eil and Loch Linnhe ; and the inter-
mediate part, which has a total length of 60J milts,
is occupied over an aggregate of 38J miles, by the
fresh-water lochs, Loch Dochfour, Loch Ness, Loeh
Oich, and Loch Lochy, and is traversed over the
rest of the distance by streams which connect these
lakes with one another on with the sea-lochs. This
intermediate part is the region of the Caledonian
Canal, which comprises works at its extremities,
works on the lakes, and 22 miles of dry cutting.
The forming of the Caledonian Canal seemed to
be strongly invited by the very character and posi-
tion of the great glen, and, if the Highlands had
been a peaceful, commercial, well-peopled region,
must certainly have taken place many years ago ;
yet was projected so late as the latter part of last
century, and even then as a supplement to the great
work of opening up the Highlands by public roads
and bridges, which will be noticed in our article on
the Highlands, and as a means of producing employ
ment to the Highland population. In 1773, the
celebrated James Watt was engaged by the trustees
of the forfeited estates to survey the line, with the
view of estimating the cost of making a canal of
ten feet water; and in the report which he drew up,
he gave a clear short statement of the chief uses
which the work would serve, — a statement veiy
forcible as applying to a canal of ten feet water, but
doubly more so had it been made in reference to a
canal twice as deep. He says, — " All vessels going
from Ireland, or the west coasts of Britain, to the
east coasts of the island, to Holland, or to the con-
tinent of Europe north of it, and vice versa, together
with vessels trading between the east coast and
America, must either pass through the British
Channel, or go north-about, that is through the
Pentland frith, or through the sounds of, or round,
the Orkney Islands. At all times going north-about
is the readiest passage for the northern parts of the
island; and in time of war danger from privateers
in the British Channel, and the height of insurance
upon that account, are so great that many ships, to
which that passage would naturally be convenient,
are obliged for security or economy to go north-
about. Wherever a great promontory or termina-
tion of a mainland is to be passed round or doubled,
it is well known to mariners that, from the variety
of winds that are necessary, and from the storms
which rage with greater fury at those headlands
than upon other coasts, the voyage is more tedious,
as well as more dangerous, than others of a like
length that lie in a direct course. This is remark-
ably the case with the Orkney passages, to which
the northern situation greatly contributes. Besides
other inconveniences, they are subjected to periodical
winds that blow violently for months together from
the east or west, which renders it not uncommon
for vessels to be detained six weeks or two months
in those harbours. In the winter the risk of ship-
wreck on these boisterous seas is veiy great ; and
consequently that passage is little frequented then,
and insurances are high. The greatest loss of time
in, the northern passage generally happens about
the Orkneys, as it is there that the winds which
brought the vessels northward cease to be of any
further service to them, and the seas are generally
too stormy to permit them to work to windward.
From this view of the subject, it appears that a
communication, such as is here described, between
the German Ocean and the Atlantic, which would
be shorter, more secure, both from the dangers of
the sea and from privateers, and also more certain
in all seasons than by the Orkneys, would be more
CALEDONIAN CANAL.
226
CALEDONIAN CANAL.
acceptable to all vessels capable of passing through
it, even though it were loaded with a toll."
But soon after Mr. Watt's report was given in
the forfeited estates were restored, and the report
fell to the ground. Some years later, however, the
project of the canal was again pressed on the at-
tention of Government by an accumulation of evi-
dence tending to show the necessity of adopting
some means of checking the tide of emigration
which then threatened to depopulate the Highlands.
By the gradual conversion of the whole country
into extensive sheep-walks, a large proportion of the
native inhabitants had been deprived of the means
.of subsistence; and it became an object of immedi-
ate urgency to afford employment to such of their
number as might at least pi'eserve the remnant of a
population, on which, in times of need, such large
and serviceable draughts had so often been made
for the support of our armies and navies. It could
not but happen, moreover, that, by the adoption of
the proposed measures, habits of industry would be
introduced among the people, which, it was expected,
would have a permanent effect in ameliorating the
condition of the inhabitants, and improving the face
of the country, to both of which facility of intercom-
munication is the first and most essential requisite.
Accordingly in 1803-4, Mr. Telford was employed
by a body of Parliamentary Commissioners to re-
survey the line, with adaptation to the circumstances
of the time, and prospective adaptation to the cir-
cumstances of the future, and to report on the
estimated expense. He proposed that the canal
should be formed of a size to admit the largest class
of Baltic and American traders, or such as to pass
on occasions of emergency a 32-gun frigate fully
equipped, for which he calculated that a uniform
depth of 20 feet water would be necessary, with
locks measuring 170 feet long by 40 feet in width.
His original estimate for executing the work on this
scale amounted to no more than £350,000 ; and the
period of its completion was computed at seven
years. There was nothing to prevent the possibility
of its fulfilment within the specified period, provided
a sufficient number of workmen had been employed,
and the necessary funds afforded for overcoming
every natural obstacle that occurred. It was no
doubt partly, however, with a view to the saving of
expense that the works were, in reality, protracted
so much beyond the period calculated upon ; for in
order to have the advantage of canal-conveyance
for the requisite materials, the buildings in the mid-
dle districts were not commenced until the eastern
and western portions of the line had been so far
completed at least as to be conveniently navigable.
Besides, during the progress of the late war, the rise
which took place in the prices of all descriptions of
commodities, as well as of food, and consequently
of labour and workmanship, was unprecedentedly
rapid; so much so, that from the year 1805, when
the canal works were commenced, to the years 1812
and 1813, the difference in many articles had in-
creased to 50, 70, and even 100 per cent. Another
source of unlooked-for expenditure is to be attributed
to the great extent of dredging, a process previously
untried upon anything like so large a scale. It was
on the Caledonian canal that steam-power was first
applied to this operation ; and although it was lat-
terly brought to a much more effective degree of
performance, yet it may easily be conceii ed that in
its earlier stages it was attended with greater dif-
ficulties and consequent expense than the projector
of a work, to which its use and application were
entirely subordinate, could reasonably be expected
to have calculated upon. Many unforeseen difficul-
ties occurred to prevent the canal being opened
until several years after the period originally con-
templated. Year after year, during the whole pro-
gress of the work, the inaccuracy of the original
estimate became more evident, and at length a
strong feeling was manifested against further ad-
vances of public money, or renewing the annual
application to parliament for further grants. Under
these circumstances the commissioners were led, in
the year 1822, to open the canal when only partially
completed. This premature opening occasioned
numerous accidents to the works, and entire failures
of certain portions of them, the repairing of which
was a source of continual expense, and frequently
caused the navigation to be interrupted. The total
cost of the canal up to the period of its being opened
was £905,258; to the 1st of May 1827, £973,271;
and to the 1st of May 1844, £1,070,173.
One of the most difficult operations that occurred
in the formation of the canal was the construction
of the north-east entrance or sea-lock, at Clachna-
harry, on the Beauly frith. Here, on account of
the flatness of the beach, it was necessary to throw
out artificial mounds for about 400 yards into the
sea, to attain the required depth of water ; and the
bottom was found to consist of a kind of soft mud
or silt, which was quite unfit to bear the weight of
a solid structure of masonry. The entrance to the
sea-lock here, however, was effectually deepened by
a steam dredging vessel in the early part of 1838.
From the Muirtown locks — a series of four, about a
mile distant from the stone bridge of Inverness — ■
the canal extends in a level reach for about 5 miles
to a regulating lock at Dochgarroch, at which there
is no rise, its purpose being merely to avert the
winter-floods of Loch Ness, whenever they should
rise above the standard-level of the navigation.
The distance from Loch Beauly to the small loch of
Dochfour, at the north-east end of Loch Ness, is 6
miles 35 chains ; and the length of the navigable
channel through Loch Ness is 23 miles 56 chains.
The difficulties encountered in effecting the requisite
entrance from the upper end of Loch Ness, although
of a very different kind, were not less formidable
than those experienced in connecting the canal with
the tideway at Clachnaharry. With the interven-
tion of a short space of deep cutting, to ' form the
entrance channel, there are five united locks at Fort
Augustus. From this to the north-east end of Loch
Oicb is a distance of 5 miles 35 chains, in which the
Kytra and Aberchalder locks occur. The ordinary
summer-level of Loch Oich, which stands almost
exactly 100 feet above high-water mark at Invei
ness and Fort- William, was that calculated on
for the eventual purposes of the canal, and is the
summit-level of the navigation ; and the Aberchal-
der regulating lock was so adapted to it as to afford
a depth of 20 feet over its upper gate-sills. The
lake being in many places quite shallow, it was
proposed to excavate the navigable channel by
dredging to a corresponding depth ; but this proved
to be a far more arduous and expensive operation
than was at first expected. This lake, too, is liable
to sink much in droughts and to rise much in heavy
rains, so as to vary in level upwards of 9 feet ; and
recourse required to be had to a reservoir in Glen-
garry for bringing supplies to it in its low condition-
while extreme difficulty was experienced in com-
manding it during floods. The length of the navi-
gation through it is 3 miles 56 chains. At the
south-west end of it are situated the two Laggan
locks, descending to the level of Loch Lochy ; the
first operating merely as a regulating lock to meet
the occasional flooding of Loch Oich ; and the other
having a, fall of 9 feet 6 inches, to suit the difference
of level between the two lakes. The length of
CALEDONIAN CANAL.
227
CALEDONIAN CANAL.
canal-cutting between the south-west end of Loch
Oioh and the north-east of Loch Lochy is 1 mile 05
chains. The surface of Loch Lochy extends aljout
11 miles in length, and may be reckoned to have a
mile and a half of average width. Its area is about
6,000 acres. It was part of the original design that
this great sheet of water should be raised for the
purposes of the navigation about 12 feet above its
natural level ; and this was actually effected by
closing up the former egress by the river Lochy —
the site of which is now occupied by the canal — and
forming a new outlet through the lands of Mucorner
at a proportionally higher level ; so that the waters
of the lake are now discharged into the river Spean,
which formerly joined the river Lochy about half-a-
mile below. Across the new outlet a permanent
wear is partly constructed of masonry, and partly
excavated from the solid rook, over which the water
falls into the river Spean. A regulating lock occurs
at Gairlochy near the foot of Loch Lochy ; a canal
reach of about 6 miles in length extends thence to
Bannavie, where there is a grand series of locks,
eight in number, commonly called Neptune's Stair-
case ; and another canal-cut of about 1J mile in
length, extends thence, with a descent of two more
locks, to the sea-lock at Corpach, in the vicinity of
Fort- William.
The evils attendant on the incomplete state of the
canal, and on the peculiarities of its navigation were
so great, so many, and in some instances so accu-
mulating that the Parliamentary Commissioners at
length felt driven to entertain the question of either
abandoning the work or applying some competent
remedy ; and they were guided to their decision by
three reports drawn up respectively in 1837 by Mr.
George May, in 1839 by Mr. Walker, then President
of the Institution of Civil Engineers, and in 1841 by
Sir W. Edward Parry, the celebrated Arctic explorer,
then at the head of one of the departments of the
Admiralty.
One of the chief evils dwelt on by Mr. May
is the possibility of vessels, either by dint of
tempestuous weather or casual mismanagement of
the persons in charge of them, coming into such
violent collision with any of the lock-gates as to
carry them away, an evil enhanced very much in
the case of the Caledonian canal by the arrange-
ment of the majority of its locks in clusters. " We
shall suppose a particular case," says Mr. May,
" and examine its bearings upon the present ques-
tion. At Bannavie, for instance, there are eight
united locks, and nine pair of gates in successive
descent, each having, when in a state of inaction,
its regular head of seven or eight feet of water.
Now, let us imagine a heavy vessel approaching the
top of these locks after nightfall, with a strong
breeze of favourable wind, and that, sufficient atten-
tion not being paid to checking its course in proper
time, it comes against the upper pair of gates with
such force as — aided by the pressure of water already
upon them — to bear them down before it. The ves-
sel is, of course, precipitated into the first lock with
all the effect due to the suddeu rush of a head of
seven or eight feet of water into it ; and the inevi-
table consequence is, that it strikes violently against
the second pair of gates, which having now a head
of 15 or 16 feet of w^ter upon them, are easily bro-
ken down. In like manner the vessel is precipi-
tated with accumulated force through all the succes-
sive locks until it falls into the reach below ; thus
involving the total destruction of nine pair of gates,
all consequent upon the incidental failure of the
upper pair. Reckoning, then, the expense of each
pair of gates at the moderate computation of £1,000,
we have, in the first instance, an aggregate loss of
£9,000 as the immediate effect of a casualty which
is liable to occur at any moment ; and I do not at all
exaggerate when I say that some years would ne-
cessarily elapse before the gates could be recon-
structed, and the canal restored to its former state
of operation. But the damage contingent upon the
supposed accident would by no means end here.
The instant effect of the destruction of the Bannavie
lock-gates would be to empty the whole reach be-
tween that place and Gairlochy lock, the gates of
which being then deprived of their present counter-
acting support would almost to an absolute certainty
yiekfto the pressure of the water above ; and if we
supposed Loch Lochy to be in a flooded state at the
time, the whole waters of that lake, to the depth of
from 20 to 30 feet, would be suddenly discharged
into the valley below, involving not merely the
utter annihilation of the canal-works, but the most
extensive ravages of life and property throughout
the whole district between Loch Lochy and the sea.
It will no doubt appear somewhat strange to you,
but it is assuredly the fact that all these appalling
consequences would almost inevitably ensue from
the incidental failure of a single pair of gates, either
at the Bannavie or Gairlochy locks. It is almost
needless for me to say that effects of a precisely
similar kind, though proportionally of less extent,
would follow from any accident to the lock-gates at
Fort-Augustus, where there are five united locks
and six successive pair of gates ; or at Muirtown,
where there are four united locks and five pair of
gates; and indeed there is not a situation on the
line where such an occurrence could take placo
without necessarily involving the total interruption
of the navigation from sea to sea for greater or less
periods, and expenses to a very serious amount, set-
ting aside entirely the contingent damages to which
it might in all probability lead."
The substance of the most weighty part of Mr.
Walker's report is as follows: — The lakes, though
they greatly cheapened the cost of constructing the
canal, proved serious hindrances to the working of it,
by obstructing the passage of vessels. From lying in
the trough or hollow between two ranges of moun-
tains, the wind blows always parallel to the line of
the canal, so as necessarily to be a foul wind in one
direction. From the rocky nature of the banks,
and their crooked irregular shape, tracking through
the lakes is impossible. The width of Loch Lochy
and Loch Ness is sufficient for vessels of about 100
tons to work when once fairly in the lakes ; but
there is a great difficulty in warping against a strong
head-wind to reach this, and great danger also from
the rocky shores in case of a vessel missing stays.
Therefore, working or tacking through the lakes
was seldom attempted; and the consequence was,
that the passage of 60 miles, which, if tracking had
been practicable for the whole length, might have
been accomplished generally in three or four days,
often took as many weeks, or even a month, and in
some cases five weeks. The evil was increased by
the westerly winds which prevail for eight or nine
months of the year, and are opposed to the passage
of vessels proceeding from the east to the west end,
which is the direction of what ought to be the great-
est trade on the canal. One of the principal objects
of the canal — to prevent the delay of going through
the Pentland frith and round Cape Wrath during
westerly winds — was thus in a great measure de-
feated. The approaches to the canal from the estu-
aries at each end were subject to the same incon-
venience. The want of depth in the canal and in
portions of the locks was another great drawback.
This arose partly from the excavation of the canal
never having been completed, partly from the wears
CALEDONIAN CANAL.
228
CALEDONIAN CANAL.
at the ends of the locks not having been sufficient
to support the depth of water, and partly from the
great leakage in parts of the canal. The average
of tonnage passing through the canal, exclusive of
steam-boats and local traffic, had been about 25,000
tons per annum, without much increase or diminu-
tion, during the preceding ten years ; and the traffic
then on the canal was not probably 2J per cent, of
the whole trade going through the Pentland frith.
The canal, too, was not capable, in its then state,
of receiving vessels of any considerable tonnage,
which, indeed, never attempted it. During the
preceding seven years, only one vessel of 240 tons
made the passage. The expense of maintaining the
canal was increased by the bad repair and unfinished
state of the works ; and as these works were made
for a trade of much larger vessels, the expense of
maintaining them was almost the same as if such
vessels, to ten times the then number, had to pass.
The expense of the repairs and finishing necessary,
Mr. Walker estimated at £129,317. But to com-
plete the establishment, he proposed that there
should be three steam- vessels on the canal, — namely,
one for Loch Lochy of 40 horses power, one for
Loch Oich of 40 horses power, and one for Loch
Ness of 50 horses power; and to do full justice
to the navigation, and add to the certainty of de-
spatch, he proposed that there should also be a
steamer in the Moray frith, to bring vessels from
Fort George to the eastern entrance, and another to
bring them from Corran ferry, or even the sound of
Mull, to the western entrance. The amount for
steam tug-boats, with 10 per cent, for contingencies,
added to the repairs and improvements before stated,
would make a gross amount of £143,837, or, in
round numbers, £150,000 for putting the canal in
complete repair, making it proper for all vessels of
38 feet beam, and 17 feet draught.
Sir W. E. Parry reported principally on the com-
mercial view of the case ; and, after instituting ex-
tensive investigations, and making full digests of
them, he said, " 1st. That the Caledonian canal,
from its hitherto imperfect state, including the small,
variable, and uncertain depth of water, and the en-
tire absence of the requisite facilities either for get-
ting through the canal itself, or for navigating the
approaches to it by sea, has never yet had a fair
trial of its capabilities, and, consequently, of the
extent to which it may be used with advantage by
the trade of the country ; — 2d. That if the canal and
its approaches were put into the contemplated state
of efficiency, the passage through it would be
cheaper (even at double the present amount of dues),
much more speedy, and by far more secure than the
passage by the Pentland Firth ; — 3d. That on this
account, a very large proportion of vessels now pur-
suing a northern route round this island, would use
it in preference to the Pentland Firth, and perhaps
some of those which now go through the English
channel; — 4th. That in case of war with certain
nations, the Caledonian canal would be used by such
vessels to a still greater extent — perhaps almost
exclusively — on the ground of increased comparative
cheapness, speed, and security."
Government was convinced by these reports that
the canal ought to be put into a state of complete
efficiency; Mr. Walker was instructed to prepare
plans, specifications, and estimates for the requisite
repairs and works; and in 1843, Messrs. Jackson
and Bean, eminent contractors, came into an en-
gagement to execute all these repairs and works in
the course of the three following years. The under-
taking was gone into with vigour, and carried on
without miscalculation or pause. The dredging
operations on the summit-level proved exceedingly
arduous. A new steam-dredger had to be procured,
after the most improved model, with the hull en-
tirely of iron, and the machinery of great power.
Most of the ground consisted of hard mountain clay.
\ ith large embedded whinstone boulders, and part
of it was much encumbered with trunks of trees,
some of them containing from four to five loads of
timber ; yet, in spite of such serious obstructions, oc-
casionally nearly one thousand tons were removed in
the course of one day. At certain portions of the
line, particularly in the reaches above Muirtown
and Fort-Augustus, where the leakage in dry sea-
sons was wont to diminish the available depth of
water, it was found necessary to put on a coating
of clay. A new lock was constructed at the south-
west end of Loch Lochy, for the better regulation
of high floods in that lake ; and this is a huge mass
of masomw, with a height of about 40 feet from the
foundation to the coping, and a length of upwards
of 450 feet. Retaining wears also were formed ; all
the old locks were repaired; many subordinate
operations were done ; an uniform navigable depth
of 18 feet water at all times was secured ; lights
were placed at the sea-entrances and at the ends of
the lakes ; the channels leading up from the sea at
both ends were buoyed off; steam-tugs for towing
vessels through the estuaries and the lakes were
procured ; suitable charts and sailing directions
were published; and in April 1847, the canal was
re-opened.
The traffic through the canal during the next
twenty months was not so great as had been anti-
cipated, yet seemed promising and progressive, and
then was checked for a little by an unprecedented
calamity. In the summer, autumn, and early win
ter of 1848, the weather throughout the great glen
was so remarkably rainy and tempestuous as to
occasion unusual effort to keep the canal in repair.
On the 15th of December, there blew a hurricane
which unroofed the houses of Inverness, uprooted
trees, and brought great risk upon several Baltic
traders which had just been admitted into the basin.
A severe frost followed, closed up the navigation at
least a month earlier than had ever been before
known, and continued during upwards of three
weeks. Incessant rains followed the breaking up
of the frost, flooded all the great glen far beyond all
former experience, raised some of the small side
lochs 14 feet above what they had ever. been known
to reach, and at length, on the 24th and 25th of
January, produced such an overpowering discharge
as swept away the stone bridges at Abercbalder
and Fort-Augustus, and the old stone bridge at
Inverness, and laid a considerable part of the town
of Inverness under flood, to the great alarm and
distress of the inhabitants. The canal appeared to
be variously and severely injured; Mr. Walker
came down in all haste to examine it and report
upon it; two very large breaches were found to be
made in its hanks at Dochgarroch and Abercbalder,
besides lesser injuries in other places; a grant of
£10,000 was voted by parliament to restore the
canal to efficiency, and veiy speedily such works
were done as it was hoped would not only obliterate
all the effects of the floods, but constitute a provi-
sion against damage from any future floods of equai
violence and duration. The amount of canal dues
levied from the 1st of May 1848 till the 1st of May
1849 was £3,874 3s. 5d.; and this, in spite of all
the stoppage and other unfavourable circumstances
of the inundation, was an increase of nearly £600
on the preceding year. The total expenditure on
account of the canal, from the commencement in
1803 till the 5th of May 1849 was £1,311,270
3s. 2d.
CALEDONIAN RAILWAY. 229 CALEDONIAN RAILWAY.
CALEDONIAN RAILWAY, an extensive and
ramified system of railway, connecting the cities of
Edinburgh and Glasgow and a large portion of the
S9u.tb.jra. Lowlands of Scotland with the English
railways at Carlisle. It comprises a great fork
from Edinburgh to Caruwath, a great fork from the
north side of Glasgow to Camwath, a branch from
the Glasgow fork at Motherwell to the south side of
Glasgow, with a subordinate branch to Hamilton,
and a branch from the same fork in the vicinity of
Gartsherrio to the Scottish Central railway in the
vicinity of Castlccary, and a main trunk from Cam-
wath to Carlisle. But it comprehends within its
north-western portions the Clydesdale junction, the
Pollock and Govan, the Wishaw and Coltness, the
Glasgow and Garnkirk, the Glasgow and Greenock,
and the Glasgow and Ban-head railways. It thus
commands the traffic of Glasgow toward most points
of the compass, connects Greenock on the west with
Edinburgh on the east, and forms the main line
of communication between most parts of Scotland
and all the west of England. The several rail-
ways comprised in its north-west portions will be
better understood by being noticed separately, —
each in its own alphabetical place ; so that we shall
describe here only the original or proper Caledo-
nian— consisting of the Edinburgh fork, the Glas-
gow fork, together with the parts of previous rail-
ways comprised in it, the Castlecary branch, one or
two of the smaller branches or junctions, and the
main trunk.
The bill for this railway was contested in parlia-
ment several sessions, but at length obtained the
royal assent on 31st July 1845. The first sod was
was turned on the grand summit in the follow-
ing August. The line was opened from Carlisle
to Beattock in September 1847, and thence to
Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Castlecary in Febru-
ary 1848. The length of the railway from Edin-
burgh to Carlisle is 100 miles, from Glasgow to
Carlisle 105 miles, and from Castlecary to Carlisle
1 05 J miles. The rails are upon the national gauge
of 4 feet 8J inches, on cross timber sleepers, 4
and 5 feet apart. The course of the main-trunk for
33 miles contiguous to the grand summit, runs
through a moorish, mountainous country, and has a
rise of no less than 760 feet; but all the rest of the
line, with small exceptions, is remarkably free
from bold, difficult, or costly engineering features.
The Company's act of incorporation authorised
them to raise, in shares of £50 each, a capital of
£2,100,000, and to borrow a sum of £700,000. The
estimated cost of execution, up to the completion of
the line, was £2,100,000; but the affairs of the Com-
pany have since then become much complicated by
the extension of their system.
The Edinburgh terminus is situated in the
Lothian Road, immediately behind the Castle. A
very beautiful design has been supplied by Mr.
Tite, but the building has not yet been erected, and
a large temporary station is used. The shed where
the trains arrive and depart is substantially con-
structed, and forms a striking object. A few hun-
dred yards from the station the line runs under
Gardiner's Crescent, upon a substantial archway,
strongly supported — a very ingenious and difficult
piece of work. The gradients vary, after a-short
level, in the first mile, from 1 in 100, to 1 in 140 for
the succeeding five miles. The views of the Pent-
lands, and, from the higher grounds, of the city just
left, are particularly interesting and picturesque.
Donaldson's Hospital and Corstorphine Hill are con-
siderable features in the landscape; and numbers
of lesser objects form a pleasing variety. Here
also are a large engine-shed, water-tank, &c. At
2 miles wo reach Slateford station, the first from
Edinburgh. The line then passes over the Water
of Leith, by a magnificent viaduct alongside the
aqueduct of the Union canal. This is a most sub-
stantial work, and one of the most imposing on the
line. It consists of 14 arches, 30 feet span each,
and 42 feet above the bed of the stream. The rail-
way then passes over the canal by a girder-bridge,
which is an object well worthy of remark. The
line runs on an embankment of considerable extent,
passing Colinton and Baberton on the left, and Ric-
carton on the right. It skirts the celebrated Haile's
quarry, and commands a striking view of the bold
crags of Craiglockart, with the Peutlands in the dis-
tance. We reach Currie station at 5J miles from
Edinburgh, but the village itself is about a mile from
the line, and beautifully situated. On the left are
seen the richly wooded grounds of Dalmahoy, the
seat of the Earl of Morton ; and a little beyond, on the
rising ground, is the village of Ratho. On the left
we rapidly pass Kaimes and Meadowbank, well
known as the seats of two eminent Scotch judges.
To the south-west the tower of Lennox castle, once
occupied by Queen Mary, forms an interesting ob-
ject. Passing Ormiston we come at 9 miles to Kirk-
newton station. The gradient of the line is here 1
in 220. Passing the mansions of Belfield and Calder
Hall, on the right, we soon reach one of the most
magnificent works on the line, the Linhouse via-
duct. This bridge stretches across a deep and wide
ravine, and consists of 6 arches of 60 feet span, ris-
ing from the bed of the stream to the level of the
rail, 100 feet. It is equally substantial in its struc-
ture, and elegant in its proportions. Mid Calder is
to the right, and Calder House, the seat of Lord
Torphichen, is near. AVe next, at 15 miles, reach
West Calder station. The village of West Calder
is some distance from the line ; and passing Torphin
as we ascend we behold most magnificent views,
the whole range of the Lothians with Arthur's Seat,
the frith of Forth, and the Ochils. We next reach
a very fine sheet of water, the Cobbenshaw reservoir.
Here the gradient for several miles is very severe
being 1 in 100 till the summit level is attained, when
the incline varies for several miles from 1 in 100 to
* 1 in 176 and 1 in 200. The ground is upon an ele-
vation above the level of the sea about 500 feet.
The couutry around is bleak and wild. After pass ■
ing Woolfords and Mossflat, there is a branch to the
Wilsontown ironworks and coalfields, one of the
richest mineral districts in Scotland. At 21 miles
is the Auchingray station. The line from this point
presents no feature of interest, till it crosses the
Carnwath Moss, which is of considerable extent,
and which formed a work of great difficulty, having
swallowed up a large sand hill through which the
line runs, and which fortunately afforded an ample
supply of ballasting. At 26 miles is the Carnwath
station, and half-a-mile beyond occurs the junction
of the main line and branches, sweeping over the
low lying grounds through which the Clyde runs,
and forming a triangle, at one end of which, on the
Glasgow fork, are engine-sheds and offices, &c. The
main line to the south strikes off at this point, the
east and west traffic being earned over a bend,
which unites the Edinburgh and Glasgow forks.
The Glasgow terminus is as yet a large temporary
shed at the north end of Buchanan Street, in the
vicinity of Cowcaddens. A short distance thence, a
brief branch goes to St. Rollox, where was the origi-
nal terminus of the Glasgow and Garnkirk railway.
The country all along that railway is devoid of any
particular interest. At 5 miles is the Stepsroad
station ; at 6J miles is the Garnkirk station, in the
vicinity of the most celebrated fire-brick works in
CALEDONIAN RAILWAY.
230
CALEDONIAN RAILWAY.
the kingdom, where every kind of ornamental and
useful manufactures in clay is carried on with the
utmost ingenuity ; and afterwards, at short intervals,
occur Gartcosh station, Gartsherrie station, and
Coatbridge junction. " The wealth of the country "
here and for some distance onward " is not upon the
surface. We are now in the heart of the. mineral
district ; and many even of its towns and villages, at
least of its excavated areas, acres in extent, may be
said to he under ground. The scene which salutes
the gaze at Coatbridge (10 miles) the centre of the
combined influences of soot, smoke, and flame, rail-
way transit, and the hot blast, is to the stranger most
astounding. The very noise of the incessant loco-
motion, with the tremendous din of the iron works
for an accompaniment, is greatly calculated to en-
hance the effect of the perpetual day maintained
throughout these regions by the blaze of the Gart-
sherrie, Langloan, Drumpeller, Dundyvan, and
Whifflat furnaces." In this tract occur the junction
Of the MoNKLAND AND KlRKJNTILLOCH RAILWAY and
the junction of the Wishaw and Coltxess Railway
— the forming taking out the branch toward Castle-
cary, and the latter forming now the main line to
the south. The Castlecary branch is about 10 miles
in length, passes Glenbog, Condorrit, and Cum-
bernauld on one side, and New Monkland and
Greeuguards on the other, has gradients of 1 in 100
over about 2 miles, from 1 in 644 to 1 in 660 over
about other 2 miles, and an average of about 1 in
200 over the rest of the distance, goes under the
Edinburgh and Glasgow railway in the vicinity of
Castlecary, and then forms a junction with the
Scottish Central railway. On the main line, which
is here the Wishaw and Coltness, at the distance
of 13 miles from Glasgow, is the Holytown station,
and at the distance of 16 miles is the Motherwell
station. Here is the connecting point of the Clydes-
dale Junction Railway, which forms a shorter route
to Glasgow than the line we have been tracing, and
at the same time leads continuously there into the
Glasgow and Greenock railway. Proceeding on-
ward from Motherwell, we leave Wishawtown to the
left, pass at 18J miles the Morning-side or Cambus-
nethan branch, and arrive at 23 miles at the Car-
luke station, and the commencement of the works
expressly formed for the Caledonian railway. At
24 miles we reach the Braidwood station. The
gradients on this part of the line are 1 in 120, 1 in
255, 1 in 100, and over the next six miles 1 in 132.
At 28 miles is the Lanark station; and passing
Cleghorn House on the right, we come at 30 miles
to the village of Ravenstruther. Next we pass
Carstairs on the left, and Carstairs House on the
right, and then reach the Carstairs Junction station,
where the Glasgow fork and the Edinburgh fork
converge into the main trunk.
The railway now crosses the Clyde at a very low
level, and afterwards crosses it three times at Har-
dington, Crawford, and Newton. The first station
from the junction is Thankerton, 31J miles from
Edinburgh; the next is Symington, 33£ miles,
having communication with Biggar; thenextisLam-
ington, 35 miles ; the next is Abington, 42£ miles ;
the next is Crawford, 44 miles ; the next is Elvan-
loot, 45 J miles; and the next is Beattock, on the
further side of the summit, 60J miles from Edin-
burgh. The route from the Float Junction, up the
valley of the Clyde, out at its head, and down the vale
of Evan, is one of great beauty and interest, and one
of a character which no other railway in Britain pre-
sents. It was something of a feat to carry a good
road through such a country ; but a railway, with
its avoidance of curves and steep inclines, seemed a
Vory few years ago an impossibility and absurdity;
and prophecies that such a line would never bo
made, or at best never worked, were freely made by
persons accredited as possessing perfect knowledge
of the subject. Nevertheless, the thing is done, and
well done ; though the passenger, as he threads the
valley and climbs the hill, will not wonder so much
at the prophecies, as at their having been falsified.
Till near Abington, the country, though principally
pastoral, presents comparatively few difficulties, the
vale being straight and of a considerable though vary-
ing width between the two ranges of hills. A look
ahead, however, at the mountains standing right
across the path, will not fail to raise the wonder of
the passenger, as to how such a tremendous barrier
is to be passed. As he goes on and nears the moun-
tains, his curiosity as to the difficulties will increase,
rather than diminish, while his admiration will be
arrested by the peculiar character of the sceneiy, so
different from that through which a railway gene-
rally leads. There are here no busy towns, thickly
sown villages, tall chimneys, or even rich fields.
Nothing but mountain and moor are to be seen on
every side, and no signs of population, save, at long
distances, a sheep-farmer's steading, or shepherd's
shealing, and a shepherd with his dog, gazing from
the hill side at the strange invader that has come to
" disturb his ancient solitary region." The wildness
of the country increases as we ascend the stream ;
but the view becomes frequently obstructed by the
great depth of the cuttings, which, however, are of
themselves sufficient matter for wonder and admira-
tion. Here too, occur the steepest gradients, — 1 in
75 for 7 miles, and 1 in 100 for about 10 miles. An-
other of the things which attract the traveller's at-
tention on this part of the route, is the gradual and
rapid diminution of the river towards whose source
he is climbing, At Carnwath the Clyde is a broad
and stately stream : it grows less and less as we
get above the numerous tributaries it receives from
the hills on either side ; till at last at the summit,
we could empty with a bucket the river, which at
Glasgow, only two hours before, we beheld a sea
covered with masts. We are here on the table-land
of the south of Scotland, — in the very heart of
" The upland moors, where rivers, here but brooks,
Dispart to different seas."
Within 3 or 4 miles, and within sight, are the
fountains of the rivers, which empty themselves into
the Solway on the south, the frith of Clyde on the
west, and the German ocean on the east — the An-
nan, the Clyde, and the Tweed. Not five minutes
after the Clyde becomes invisible in the moss, we
are going down the tiny source of Evan, one of the
tributaries of the Annan, and see it growing as fast
as we had seen the Clyde dwindling. Very soon
after coming on the sources of the Evan, we see it
carried over in an aqueduct 20 feet above our heads,
and a little farther on we cross it 70 feet below us ;
and afterwards, when it becomes a large stream, roll-
ing over linns, and fringed with trees, we keep close
by its side till we reach Beattock. At this point
the prospect is splendid — a lonely vale hemmed in
by mountains, and offering fine glimpses of glens
and straths on both sides, and especially up Moffat-
dale, where the vista is closed, 8 or 9 miles to the
east by the White Coomb, which overhangs Loch
Skene and Yarrowhead.
Leaving Beattock, a fine view of the gorge of
Moffat Water is obtained ; and soon after, the line
passes over Annan Water by a wooden-topped via-
duct, 350 feet in length. At 65^ miles from Edin-
burgh is the Wamphray station ; and here Annan-
dale, so widely famed for its rich soft scenery, opens
to the view, with the princely woods of Raehills and
CALF.
231
CALLANDER.
the noble mass of Quecnsherry Hill in the distance.
The next station is Nctheroleugh, 71 miles from
Edinburgh, and in the neighbourhood of the wooded
demesnes of Dinwoodie and Jardine Hall. About
2J miles beyond it, the railway crosses Dryfe Water,
on a splendid viaduct of 5 arches, 30 feet span, and
built of white sandstone. At 75 miles from Edin-
burgh, it reaches Lockerby, which it traverses on
the street level. Soon after it crosses the Milk on an
elegant bridge of 6 arches of 40 feet span. On ap-
proaching Ecclefechan station, 80 miles from Edin-
burgh, the Solway frith, overhung by Cliffel, bursts
upon the view ; and Hoddam Castle and the town
of Annan are seen in the valley. Between Eccle-
fechan and the Kirtlebridgc station, a distance of 3
miles, the railway passes along a viaduct of 30
arches over the Mein ; and at the latter station, it
crosses the Kirtle on a splendid bridge of 9 arches,
3(3 feet in span. For l1 mile the line now runs ro-
mantically along the ridge of the steep high bank of
the Kirtle. At 91 J miles from Edinburgh, it reaches
the Kirkpatrick station ; and 5 miles farther on,
leaving behind Graham's Hill and Knot Hill, it
comes to the station of Gretna. Adjacent to this it
passes from Scotland to England by a fine bridge of
2 arches, 40 feet span, and 36 feet high, over the
Sark. The works and scenery throughout the re-
maining distance present many points of interest ;
and the terminus at Carlisle is a magnificent and
very spacious structure, a chief ornament of the city,
and connecting the Caledonian railway with the
Carlisle and Lancaster, the Carlisle and Newcastle,
and the Carlisle and Maryport railways.
CALF, or Calve, a small island lying nearly
across the entrance of the harbour of Tobermory,
in the north end of the sound of Mull, Argyleshire.
CALF OF EDAY. See Eday.
CALFA, a small island of the Hebrides, near
Tiree.
CALLADEE (Loch), a lake of about 2 miles in
circumference, on the southern border of the parish
of Crathie, Aberdeenshire. It sends off its surplus
waters by the rivulet Eidh, 5 miles northward to
the Dee at Castletown-Braeinar. It abounds with
trout, and contains salmon of delicate flavour', and 6
or 7 pounds weight.
CALLANDER, a parish, containing a small post-
town of its own name, and also the village of Kil-
mahog, in the Menteith district of Perthshire. It is
bounded on the west by the Benlomond wing of
Stirlingshire, and on other sides by the parishes of
Balquhidder, Coinrie, Kilmadock, Port-of-Meuteith,
and Aberfoil. Its length eastward is about 18 miles,
and its greatest breadth is 6 miles. Lochs Katrine,
Achray, and Yenachoir lie along the southern
boundary. Loch Lubnaig projects far into the in-
terior from the north ; and, together with the river
Teith which issues from it, divides the parish into
two unequal parts, placing about one-third on the
east and about two-thirds on the west. The whole
parish belongs to the infant system of the Teith, and
is cut into sections by that river's bead-streams and
early feeders. Tbeappearance of the country towards
the west and north is mountainous and gloomy
from the extent of black heath. The higher
grounds are here and there clad with oak-woods
and thriving plantations; and a bold stupendous
rock, called the Crags of Callander, diversifies the
scene, and forms a striking contrast to the valley
and the meanderings of the rivulets below. That
branch of the Teith which issues from Loch Lub-
naig, unites, a few hundred yards above the village,
with the branch issuing from Loch Venachoir, and
forms a fine peninsula. The soil of the arable land
is a rich loam, in some places capable of high culti-
vation ; but in general it is a light gravel. The
fields are mostly enclosed cither with stone-dikes or
hedge-rows. The parish is remarkable for the wild
and romantic scenery of its prospects. Bcnledi and
other lofty mountains raise their rocky heads in the
interior ; while the valleys everywhere exhibit beau-
tiful expanses and falls of water over perpendicular
precipices. Near Loch Lubnaig the scenery is very
grand, and finely ornamented by the woods and
heights of Ardchullery, once the residence of Bruce,
the Abyssinian traveller. Other tracts, particularly
along all the southern border, and along the princi-
pal vales of the interior, present some of the most
superb landscapes of Scotland. See the articles Ka-
trine, (Loch), Achray (Loch), Vexachoir (Loch),
Trosachs, Benledi, Leny (The Pass op), Lubnaig
(Loch), Brackxin, and Teith (The). The valued
rental of the parish is £3,278 10s. Scots. There is
on the estate of Leny a quarry of limestone, or rather
marble, the ground of which is a deep blue, with
streaks of white. Slate is wrought in many places.
In Benledi, a vein of lead ore was wrought ; but the
expense was found to be greater than the produce,
and it was given up. There are several remains of
supposed fortifications on the hills ; and near the
manse are some relics of a castle, which was built
or repaired, in 1596, by the Earl of Linlithgow, but
mostly taken down in 1737. The parish is traversed
by the road from Stirling to Killin, and by that from
Stirling to Inversnaid. Population in 1831, 1,909;
in 1861, 1,676. Houses, 320. Assessed property
in 1843, £7,200.
This parish, formerly a ehapelry dependent on
Inchmahome, is in the presbytery of Dunblane and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £197 14s. lid.; glebe, £20. Schoolmaster's
salary, £34 4s. 4id., with about £40 fees. The
parish church was built in 1733, and contains 638
sittings. There is a chapel of ease, of recent erec-
tion, at the Trosachs, with an attendance of 150.
There is a Free clmrch at Callander, with an at-
tendance of 450 ; and the yearly sum raised in con-
nexion with it in 1853 was £282 7s. 4£d. There are
two Society's schools, and a Free church school.
The Village of Callander stands on the road
from Stirling to Inversnaid, a little below the deflec-
tion of the road to Killin, 14 miles south of Locheam-
head, 16J north-west of Stirling, and 51 J north-west
by west of Edinburgh. It is beautifully situated on
both sides of the Teith, over which there is here a
bridge of three arches. It is built on a regular plan,
and the bouses are good and slated. The surround-
ing scenery is remarkably beautiful. A settlement
for the soldiers discharged after the German war was
established here by Government in 1763 ; and since
that time Callander has been gradually increasing.
The introduction of the cotton-manufacture also
gave it a new impetus ; in the weaving of muslin,
about 100 looms used to be employed in Callander
and the adjoining village of Kilmahog. The parish
church stands on one side of a sort of square ; it has
a pavilion-roof, with a spire over the pediment.
There are four inns, one of which is large and ex-
cellent. A weekly market is held on Thursday, and
fairs are held on the 10th of March, old style, on the
16th of May, on the third Tuesday of July, on the
9th of October, and on the first Thursday of Decem-
ber, old style. The village has a branch office of
the Bank of Scotland. Regular communication is
maintained with Stirling by public coach, at hours
to suit the transit there of the railway trains.
Facilities also are afforded in the village to tourists
visiting the Trosachs and other famous localities in
the neighbourhood. The village enjoys an amplo
supply of excellent water, and is kept in a clean
CALLENDAR.
232
CAMBUSKENNETH.
state. At the east end is a neat villa belonging to
Lady Willoughby D'Eresby. Population of the
village, 884.
CALLANDER, in Strathearn. See Crieff.
CALLENDAR, an estate in the parish of Falkirk,
Stirlingshire. The mansion is situated J of a mile
south-east of the town of Falkirk. The estate hav-
ing been confiscated immediately after the rebellion
in 1715, was sold about the year 1720; and such
tithes as were not conveyed with it, were disposed of
by the commissioners and trustees of the forfeited
estates in Scotland, to Hamilton of Dichmond, under
the express stipulation that they should be subject to
the stipend of a minister for the new parish of Pol-
mont. The mansion is a fine old building with walls
of great thickness. Itis surrounded by apark of about
400 acres in extent, containing some fine wood.
Among these, the Dool tree, on which the old bar-
ons of Callendar caused delinquents to be hanged,
stood in front of the mansion-house ; until, owing
to the total decay of its roots, it fell in 1826. It
was a huge ash, and at least four centuries old.
Callendar formerly gave the title of Earl to the
family of Liviigstone, attainted in the person of
James, fifth Earl of Linlithgow, and fourth of Cal-
lendar, in 1715. On the forfeiture of that family,
the estates were purchased by the York Buildings
company, whose estates were afterwards sold for the
benefit of their creditors. Callendar and Almond
were bought, in 1783, by William Forbes, Esq., the
father of the present proprietor. During the time
that Lord Errol held the lease of Callendar estate,
nearly 500 acres were totally covered with furze
and broom. His lordship offered a long lease of
this land to a smith in Falkirk at 2s. 6d. per acre,
on condition that he would clear it from all encum-
brance, and render it arable ; but the offer was re-
jected from a conviction that it would be a losing
concern ! The land now lets at from £3 to £5 per
acre. About 50 years ago, Lord Errol paid a rent
of about £780 for the whole estate of Callendar,
with power to cut down and sell as much timber as
lie pleased ; at the present day, this estate draws at
least £20,000 yearly. — Callendar-house has been the
scene of important events ; it was frequently visited
by Queen Mary; and was stormed and taken by
Cromwell, on his march to the Tor-wood to give
battle to Charles II. — Nearly opposite to the house
an earthen wall, of considerable height and thick-
ness, branches off from Graham's dike, towards the
old castle of Almond. From thence towards the
. east, there are few or no certain traces of it to be
seen ; but it may be presumed that it was extended
to Linlithgow, where a Roman camp existed on the
spot on which the palace was afterwards built. It
has no fosse ; and being broad at the top, was pro-
bably intended to be a road, as well as a line of de-
fence. See Falkirk.
CALLERNISH. See Uig.
CALLIEVAR, a mountain on the western bound-
ary of the How of Alford, Aberdeenshire. Its alti-
tude above sea-level is 1,480 feet.
CALLIGRAY, or Killigray, a small island,
nearly in the middle of the sound of Harris, in the
Outer Hebrides. It is about two miles long and one
broad. The southern end is a deep moss, almost
entirely uncultivated ; the northern is an early soil,
which is cultivated with care. The inhabitants are
chiefly supported by fishing. In the north end of
the island are faint traces of a very ancient building,
called Teampull na ti Annait, ' the Temple of An-
nait.' — a goddess of Saxon mythology who presided
over young maidens.
CALNADULACH, a village in the Muckaim
district of the parish of Avdchattan, Argyleshire.
CALTON, a suburb of Glasgow. See Glasgow.
CALTON, a suburb of Edinburgh. See Edin-
burgh.
CALTON-HILL, a rounded eminence in Edin-
burgh, rising abruptly from the southern termina-
tion of the ridge on which Prince's-street is built,
and forming, on the south-western side, the continua-
tion of the northern side of the valley by which the
ridge of the High-street is separated from that of the
New town. Between it and the Prince's-street
ridge, a deep and narrow hollow is formed, which
winds eastwards round the base of the hill, and is
lost in the plain that extends to Leith. From the
summit, it slopes gently toward the south-east. To
the north-west it exhibits an abrupt and rounded
face, in the same manner as the Castle-rock. Its
elevation above sea-level at Leith is 344 feet. Its
great mass is composed of claystone-porphyry and
trap- tufa. With its fissured, cracked, and crumbled
appearance, the Calton-hill would present an em-
blem of instability and desolation, were it not partly
covered with buildings, and placed in the midst of a
city unrivalled for its beauty. According to Pro-
fessor Henderson, the latitude of the Calton-hill
observatory is 55° 57' 33" north; but in the Cal-
ton-hill Observations [Vol. I. Introd. p. xxxviii] it
is stated at 55° 57' 23"2 north. The latitude of
Greenwich observatory is, according to Mr. Airy,
51° 28' 38" north. See Edinburgh.
CALVE. See Calf.
CALWATLIE. See Roseneath.
CAM-, or Cambus, a prefix hi a few Scottish de
scriptive topographical names. It denotes a bend-
ing, curve, or bay in the course of a stream ; but is
used in combination to designate objects or traits in
the vicinity of such a bending.
CAM, or Cama (Loch), a beautiful lake, about 3
miles in length and of very irregular outline, in a
sequestered situation among the mountains on the
south side of the parish of Assynt, Sutherlandshire.
CAMERA Y. See Cumbray.
' AMBUS. See Cam-.
JAMBUS, a village in the parish of Alloa, Clack -
iv annanshire. It stands at the confluence of the
Devon with the Forth, 2 miles west of the town oi
Alloa. It has thrashing mills, an extensive distil-
lery, and a small harbour with some shipping-trade.
See Alloa. Population, 287.
CAMBUS (Old). See Cockburnspath.
CAMBUS-BARRON, a village in the parish of
St. Ninians, Stirlingshire. It stands about 1£ mile
south-west of Stirling, and about the same distance
west-north-west of St. Ninians, on the road from the
latter to Gargunnock. Many of its inhabitants are
employed in wool -spinning and in the tartan and
shawl manufacture. Population, 535.
CAMBUS-BURN. See Kilmadock.
CAMBUSCURRY, a hill, about 600 feet high, in
the east of the parish of Eddertown, Ross-shire.
CAMBUSKENNETH, an abbey, founded by David
1. in 1147, on a low peninsula on the left bank of
the Forth, about a mile east-north-east of Stirling.
The tract around it is within Clackmannanshire, and
is in dispute between the parish of Stirling and the
parish of Logie. See Abbey. This tract is supposed
to have been the scene of some transaction in which
one of those Scottish monarchs who bore the name of
Kenneth was concerned ; and hence the place received
the name of Camus -kenneth, which signifies ' the
Field or Creek of Kenneth.' The situation was both
pleasant and convenient, in the midst of a fertile
country, where the community could be supplied
with all sorts of provisions, and plenty of fish from
the neighbouring river. As soon as the house was
fit to receive inhabitants, it was planted with a com
CAMBUSKENNETH.
233
CAMBUSLANG
pany of monks of St. Augustine, or canons-regular,
who were translated from Aroise, near Arras, in the
province of Artoia i\i France: an order afterwards so
liiimerous in Scotland as to possess no less than
twenty-eight monasteries in the kingdom. This
ahhey was sometimes called the Monastery of Stir-
ling, from its vicinity to that town ; and the ahbots
are often designed, in the subscriptions of old char-
ters, " abbates do Striveling." The church which
belonged to it was dedicated to St. Mary. Hence a
lane leading from the High-street in Stirling to the
monastery still goes by the name of St. Mary's wynd.
The first abbot of Cambuskenneth was called Al-
fridus; but of him and his successors, for 3 centuries,
we have nothing memorable on record. In 1326,
the clergy, earls, and barons, with a great number
of an inferior rank, having convened in this abbey,
swore fealty to David Brace, as heir apparent to the
crown, in presence of Robert his father ; as also to
Robert Stewart, grandson of the King, as the next
heir, in the event of David's death without issue.
A marriage was, at the same time, solemnized be-
tween Andrew Murray of Bothwell, and Christian
Bruce, sister of King Robert. During the wars
with England, in the reign of David Brace, the
monastery was pillaged of all its most valuable furni-
ture. The books, vestments, cups, and ornaments
of the altar, were carried of. In order to the re-
paration of this loss, William Delandel, bishop of
St. Andrews, made a grant to the community of the
vicarage of Clackmannan. From the beginning
of the loth century, we find the abbots of this
place frequently employed in important national
transactions, or advanced to the highest civil of-
fices. Henry, abbot of Cambuskenneth, after hav-
ing given proofs of his political abilities in an em-
bassy to England, was, in 1493, raised to the office
of high treasurer of Scotland, which he held only a
short time. He died in 1502, having held the abbot-
ship above thirty years. He was succeeded by
David Arnot, formerly archdeacon of Lothian ; who,
after having been six years at the head of this abbey,
was, in 1509, preferred to the bishopric of Galloway,
to which the deanery of the chapel-royal of Stirling
was annexed. The next abbot was Patrick Panther
or Panter, who was reckoned one of the most ac-
complished scholars of that age, as well as an able
statesman. He was secretary to James IV., who
also raised him to the dignity of a privy-councillor.
To his pen, the Latin epistles of that monarch
were indebted for that purity and elegance of style
which distinguished them from the barbarous com-
positions of the foreign princes with whom he cor-
responded. He was also appointed preceptor to the
King's natural sbn, Alexander Stewart, afterwards
archbishop of St. Andrews, whose uncommon pro-
gress in literature is so much celebrated by Erasmus,
under whose tuition he sometime was. David
Panther — said to have been a nephew or some other
nearrelation of theabove Patrick — was eommendator
of this abbey in the latter end of the reign of James
V. and the minority of Queen Mary. His first
office in the church was that of vicar of Carstairs,
near Lanark ; he was afterwards prior of St. Mary's
isle in Galloway; next, eommendator of Cambus-
kenneth ; and, last of all, he was raised to the see
of Ross in 1552. He was an accomplished scholar,
and admirably skilled in the Latin language. — In
1559, the monastery was spoiled, and a great part
of it cast down by the reformers, who, however
laudable their intentions were, proceeded, in some
instances, to the execution of them in a tumultuary
manner. Several of the monks embraced the Re-
formation ; and, on that account, had their portions
withdrawn by the Queen-regent. David Panther
was the last ecclesiastic who possessed the lucrative
abbotship of Cambuskenneth. John Earl of Marr,
afterwards Rcgont, had the disposal of the revenues
of Cambuskenneth. He had, during the reign of
James V., been appointed eommendator of Inchma-
home. After the Reformation had taken place, one
of his nephews, Adam Erskinc, was eommendator
of Cambuskenneth. In 15G2, by virtue of an order
from Queen Mary, and the privy council, an account
was taken of all the revenues belonging to cathe-
drals, abbeys, priories, and other religious houses,
that stipends might be modified to the reformed
clergy, who were to have a third of the benefices.
According to that account, the revenues of Cambus-
kenneth were: £930 13s. 4Ad. Scots money; 11
chalders, 11 bolls, 2 firlots of wheat ; 28 chalders,
12 bolls, 3 firlots, 3 pecks, 2 lippies of bear; 31
chalders, 6 bolls, 3 firlots, 3 pecks, 2 lippies of
meal; 19 chalders, 15 bolls, 3 firlots, 3 pecks, 2
lippies of oats. In whole, 91 chalders, 15 bolls, 1
firlot, 2 pecks, 2 lippies. The barony of Cambus-
kenneth, in which the monastery stood, was settled
by the Earl of Marr upon Alexander Erskine of
Alva, whose posterity continued in possession of it
till the year 1709, when it was purchased by the
town-council of Stirling for the benefit of Cowan's
hospital, to which it still belongs. The fabric of
the abbey was once large and extensive ; but no-
thing of it now exists, except a few broken walls,
and a tower which was the belfry. Some remains
of the garden are to be seen ; and the burial-place,
where James III. and his Queen are interred.
There is no vestige of the church. Tradition re-
ports that one of the bells was for some time in the
town of Stirling, but that the finest was lost in its
passage across the river.
CAMBUSLANG, a parish containing the con-
nected villages of Kirkhill, Vicarland, East and
West Coats, Cullochbum, Bushyhill, Chapelton, and
Sauchiebog, and also the isolated villages of Da'ton,
Lightburn, and Silverbanks in Lanarkshire. It is
bounded by the parishes of Old Monkland, Blantyre,
East Kilbride, Carmunnock, and Rutherglen. Its
length and breadth are each about 3J miles. The
Calder or Rotten Calder traces all the eastern
boundary ; the Clyde traces all the northern bound-
ary ; and the Kirk bum and Newton burn run down
the interior to the Clyde. The surface of the parish
is beautifully diversified with hill and dale. A
ridge, crowned by the summits of Dechmont and
Turnlaw, occupies a breadth of about J a mile and
a length of about 2 miles in the south-west, and is
part of a long range extending westward along the
mutual border of Lanarkshire and Ayrshire into
Renfrewshire. From this the ground declines in a
gradual manner, with beauteous swells and undula-
tions, to the romantic glen of the Calder and low
flat banks of the Clyde. The latter river is here
from 200 to 250 feet broad, and generally overflows
part of the low grounds several times in the year,
and has been known to rise here 20 feet above its
mean level. The principal landowners are the
Duke of Hamilton, J. Grahara of Westbum, Jack-
son of Spittal-Hill, and a few others. The land
rental is about £6,000. The annual value of farm-
produce was estimated in 1853 at £25,000; and the
annual produce of minerals at £22,732. Assessed
property in 1843, £11,555 5s. Coal is abundant in
the parish, and has been worked here for upwards of
300 years. The present output is about 68,200 tons
per annum. In 1750, a cart of coals of 9 cwt. cost
9d.; on the coalhill in this parish the same quantity
at present costs 6s. 8d. Vast beds of excellent
sandstone are also fcund in eveiy part of the parish,
the strata of which, as well as those of the coal, dip
CAMBUSLANG.
234
CAMBUSLANG.
towards the river ; it is singular that, on the north
side of the Clyde, the dip is also towards the river.
A stratum of limestone, usually called Cambuslang
marble, is found in some of the coal-pits at the depth
of 200 feet ; it is of a beautiful dark grey or dark
brown colour, with whitish streaks and spots, and
receives a very high polish. — Dechmont-hill seems
to have been anciently a place of strength, and
must have been well-adapted for a watch-tower.
Rising from a comparatively level country, to an
altitude of 600 feet, it commands an extensive and
varied prospect — the numerous beauties of which
have been celebrated in a descriptive poem, entitled
' Dychmont,' by John Struthers, the author of ' The
Poor Man's Sabbath,' and other pieces of much
poetical merit. Upon the summit of Dechmont are
some traces of ancient buildings. About a mile
east of the church was the castle of Dmmsargard, to
which an extensive barony was at one time annexed.
This was the property successively of several fami-
lies of great name, the Oliphants, the Murrays, the
Douglases, and the Hamiltons; and it at present
makes a part of the entailed estate of Hamilton.
On the south side of Dechmont, stands Latrick,
which, about the beginning of the 17th century,
was the seat of a Sir John Hamilton, whose family
is extinct. On the north side of the same hill,
stands the turreted house of Gilbertfield, long the
residence of a family of the name of Cunningham :
about the beginning of the 18th century, this estate
was purchased by the laird of West-Burn. Lieu-
tenant William Hamilton, the friend and poetical
correspondent of Allan Eamsa}^, lived many years,
first at Gilbertfield, and then at Latrick, where he
died on the 24th of May, 1751, at an advanced age.
Upon the banks of the Kirk burn, about a quarter
of a mile below the church, there was a chapel,
founded in 1379, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary,
to which belonged 4 acres of land which still retain
the name of Chapel-land : there was also an hospi-
tal 2 miles east from the church, to which about 130
acres, called Spittal and Spittal hill, seem to have
been annexed; but the persons by whom, and the
time when, these religious houses were founded,
are equally unknown. The parish is traversed by
the south road from Glasgow to Hamilton, and by
the south branch of the Glasgow fork of the Cale-
donian railway ; and it has a station on the latter.
The eight connected villages of Cambuslang have a
post-office, and stand on the Hamilton road, about
6 miles from Glasgow. Many of the inhabitants,
as also those of the three isolated villages, are mue-
lin-weavers, in the employment of the manufac-
turers of Glasgow. Population of the villages in
1851, 1,659. Population of the parish in 1831,
2,697; in 1861, 3,647. Houses, 489.
This parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Duke of
Hamilton. Stipend, £281 lis. lid.; glebe, £10.
Unappropriated teinds, .£469 19s. 5d. Schoolmas-
ter's salary, £34 4s. 4Jd., with about £40 fees. The
parish church was built in 1841, and contains 1,000
sittings. An Independent chapel in the village of
Chapelton was built in 1801, and contains 200
sittings. There are four non-parochial schools.
Cambuslang is famous among the religious public
as the scene of a remarkable revival in 1742. The
following narrative of this is given in the ' New
Statistical Account : ' — " The religious phenomenon,
commonly called ' the Cambuslang work,' seems to
have originated in circumstances apparently acci-
dental. The kirk of Cambuslang being too small
and out of repair — as is too often the case in the
present day — the minister in favourable weather
frequently conducted the public devotional services
of the parish in the open fields. The place chosen
was peculiarly well adapted for the purpose. It is
a green brae on the east side of a deep ravine near
the church, scooped out by nature in the form of an
amphitheatre. At present it is sprinkled over with
broom, furze, and sloe-bushes, and two aged thorns
in twin embrace are seen growing side by side near
the borders of the meandering rivulet which mur-
murs below. In this retired and romantic spot Mr.
M'Culloch, for about a year before the ' work ' be-
gan, preached to crowded congregations, and on the
Sabbath evenings after sermon, detailed to the lis-
tening multitudes, the astonishing effects produced
by the ministrations of Mr. Whitefield in England
and America, and urged with great energy the doc-
trines of regeneration and newness of life. The
effects of his zeal soon began to evidence themselves
in a striking manner among the multitudes who
waited on his ministry. Towards the end of Janu-
ary, 1742, two persons, Ingram More, a shoemaker,
and Robert Bowman, a weaver, went through the
parish, and got about ninety heads of families to
subscribe a petition, which was presented to the
minister, desiring that he would give them a weekly
lecture. This request was immediately complied
with, and Thursday was fixed upon as the most
convenient day of the week for that purpose. These
meetings were crowded with multitudes of hearers,
and at length from weekly were extended to daily
exhortations, which were carried on without inter-
ruption for seven or eight months. Many people
came to the minister's house under strong convic-
tions of sin, calling themselves ' enemies to God,
despisers of precious Christ,' and saying ' what shall
we do to he saved ? ' The first prominent symptoms
of the extraordinary effects produced by these mul-
tiplied sendees were on the 8th February. Soon
after, the sacrament was given twice in the space
of five weeks ; on 11th July and on 15th August.
Mr. Whitefield had arrived from England in June,
and many of the most popular preachers of the
day hastened to join him at Cambuslang, such as
Messrs. Willison of Dundee, Webster of Edinburgh,
M'Knight of Irvine,' M'Laurin of Glasgow, Carrie
of Kinglassie, Bonner of Torphichen, Robe of Kil-
syth, &c. The sacrament on the 15th August was
very numerously attended. One tent was placed at
the lower extremity of the amphitheatre above al-
luded to, near the joining of the two rivulets ; and
here the sacrament was administered. A second
tent was erected in the churchyard, and a third in a
green field a little to the west of the first tent.
Each of these was attended with great congrega-
tions, and it has been estimated that not less than
30,000 people attended on that ' occasion. Four
ministers preached on the fast-day, 4 on Saturday,
14 or 15 on Sunday, and 5 on Monday. There were
25 tables, about- 120 at each, in all 3,000 communi-
cants. Many of these came from Glasgow, about
200 from Edinburgh, as many from Kilmarnock,
and from Irvine and Stewarton, and also some from
England and Ireland. The Cambuslang work con-
tinued for six months, from 8th February to 15th
August 3742. The number of persons converted at
this period cannot be ascertained. Mr. M'Culloch,
in a letter to Mr. Robe, dated 30th April 1751, rates
them at 400, of which number 70 were inhabitants
of Cambuslang. The 18th of February, the day on
which this extraordinary work began, was, long
after, observed in the parish partly as a day of
humiliation and fasting for misimprovement of mer-
cies, and partly as a day of thanksgiving for the
season of grace to many in the British colonies, and
particularly in this small corner in 1741 and 1742."
The judicious writer of these remarks adds, " When
CAMBUSNETHAN.
235
CAMELON.
the present venerable and learned incumbent of
I'ainbuslang entered on the charge of the parish, a
number of the converts of 1742 still lived, and gave
evidence, by the piety and consistency of their con-
duct, of the reality of the saving change that had
been wrought on their hearts. So late as July
isis, the writer of this note heard an aged clergy-
man of a neighbouring parish allude in the church
of Cambnslang, on a Monday after a communion, to
the revival in the following terms: He had been
sp -iking of the time and place in which God had
been pleased to afford extraordinary manifestations
of his power and grace in the conversion of sinners,
and in comforting and strengthening his people,
and he added, ' Such was Bethel to the patriarch
Jacob, Tabor to the three disciples, and such was
this place about seventy-six years ago, of whom I
am told some witnesses remain to this present hour,
but the greater part are fallen asleep.' If any one
is still so bold as to allege that the work at Cam-
bnslang was ' a work of the devil,' he will find no
countenance from the serious part of the inhabitants
of the district in which it took place. No one ever
attempted to justify every thing that was said or
done at that memorable period; but, on the other
hand, it is hoped that the warmth of party spirit
will no longer prevent good men from admitting
what even the correspondent of Mr. Wishart of
Edinburgh was constrained to acknowledge in re-
gard to the revival in New England at that time,
' that an appearance so much out of the ordinary
way, and so unaccountable to persons not acquainted
with the history of the world, was the means of
awakening the attention of many, and that a good
number settled into a truly Christian temper.' "
The centenary of the Cambuslang revival was com-
memorated on the 14th of August, 1842, by tent-
preaching in the glen behind the parish church-
yard, when it was computed that from 10,000 to
12,000 persons were present.
CAMBUSMICHAEL. See Martin's (St.).
CAMBUSMORE. See Kiluadock.
CAMBUSNETHAN, a parish, containing the
post-office village of Wishawton, and also the "vil-
lages of Stewarton, Cambusnethan, Kirk, Bonkle,
and St?'\e, in the middle ward of Lanarkshire. It
is bounded on the north by Shotts parish; on the
east by Linlithgowshire ; on the south by Camwath,
Carstairs, Carluke, and Dalserf parishes; and on
the west by Dalsarf, Hamilton, and Dalziel. It ex-
tends in a north-east direction from the Clyde on
the west, nearly 12 miles in leiigth; and is on an
average about 3 miles in breadth. Its superficies
is about 26,000 acres, of which nearly one-third is
cultivated, and about 160 acres are laid out as
orchard-grounds. The haughs on the Clyde are ex-
tensive and beautiful. On the bank which rises
above the haugh-grounds, the soil is clay, covered
with extensive orchards, which are well-sheltered
from the north and east winds by coppice-woods
and regular plantations. Farther up the soil be-
comes mossy, or mixed with a black sand peculiarly
unfavourable for vegetation. The highest grounds
are on the eastern side of the parish, where they
attain an elevation of about 900 feet. The South
Calder traces all the northern boundary ; and the
Garriou burn, a beautiful little tributary of the
Clj'de, traces part of the southern boundary. The
banks of the South Calder, for a considerable way
above its confluence with the Clyde, are very finely
wooded. Abundance of excellent coal is wrought
here; also ironstone and freestone. The Shotts
iron company have two blast-furnaces at Stane.
There are extensive tile-works at Wishaw and at
Coltness. One, near Castlehill, turns out 8,000 tiles
daily, or 2,504,000 in the year. There is an exten-
sive distillery at Wishawton. Many of the village
population arc weavers, in the employment of the
Glasgow manufacturers. The mansion-houses of
Cambusnethan, Wishaw, Coltness, Allanton, and
Muirhouse are all very handsome structures. The
parish is traversed by the road from Carluke to
Glasgow, by the road from Ayr to Edinburgh, by
the Glasgow fork of the Caledonian railway, and by
the Coltness and Wilsontown railway; and it has
stations on the former of these railways at Wishaw
and Overtown, and a station on the latter at Mom-
ingside. Population in 1831, 3,824; in 1861, 14,601.
Houses, 2,362. Assessed property in 1843, £32,016
9s. 9d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Lockhart of
Castlehill. Stipend, £278 15s. 8d. Unappropriated
teinds, £469 19s. 5d. Schoolmaster's salary, £34 4s.
4Ad., with about £20 fees. The parish church was
built about 12 years ago, and contains about 800
sittings. There is also a chapel of ease, of similar
capacity, at Wishawton. There is a Free church
preaching-station, whose total yearly proceeds in
1853 amounted to £115 Is. 2Jd. There are two
United Presbyterian churches, — the one at Bonkle
and the other at Wishawton, — the former built in
1818 and contaming 560 sittmgs, the latter built in
1822 and containing 740 sittings. There is a Re-
formed Presbyterian church at Wishawton, which
contains 350 sittings. There is a Congregational
chapel at Wishawton, with an attendance of 200.
There is also a place of meeting called the Christian
church, with an attendance of between 25 and 30.
There are eight non-parochial schools.
CAMBUSNETHAN-KIRK, or Kirkxow, a vil-
lage in the parish of Cambusnethan, Lanarkshire.
It stands on the road from Ayr to Edinburgh, about
a mile east of Wishawton. Fairs are held on the
2d Thursday of May and the 4th Thursday of
October. Population, 485.
CAMBUS-VIC-HUSTAN, a small but safe har-
bour, in the parish of Assynt, Sutherlandshire.
CAMBUS-VIC-KER-CHIR, a safe and well-
sheltered harbour, except from the north-east gales,
in the parish of Assynt, Sutherlandshire.
CAMBUS- WALLACE, a locality in the parish ot
Ivilmadock, 1 mile north-west of Donne, Perthshire.
Some years ago, several ancient graves were dis-
covered at Rosshall near this place ; and tradition
relates that a battle was once fought near this spot
between the families of Rosshall and Craigton.
CAMBUS-WALLACE, in Lanarkshire. See
BlGGAR.
CAMELON, a -village with a post-office in the
parish of Falkirk, Stirlingshire. It stands on the
north side of the Forth and Clyde Canal, and on
the road from Falkirk to Glasgow, about 1 mile
west of Falkirk. A neat church, in connexion with
the Establishment, and containing 660 sittings, was
built at the west end of the village in 1840. A
large number of the inhabitants are employed in
nail-making. Old Camelon, situated about 5 fur-
longs without the gate where the Roman road
issued from the wall of Antoninus, about half-a-
mile to the north-west of the present village, was a
Roman town, and a sea-port; and an anchor was
dug up here in 1707. There are many circum-
stances which authorize us to conclude, not only
that the river Carron has been navigable farther up
than the site of Old Camelon, but also, that the sea
at one time came very near to Falkirk, and covered
the whole of that district which is now called the
Carse. General Roy has given a plan of Old
Camelon in the 29th plate of his ' Military Antiqui-
CxVMEEON.
236
CAMPBELTON.
ties ; ' he supposes it to be the Roman station Ad
Vallum. Boece, and some others, strangely con-
found this place with the Camelodunum of Tacitus,
now known to be St. Maldew in Essex. Population
of Camelon, 1,308.
CAMERON, a parish in the east of Fifeshire. It
approaches within a mile of the city of St. Andrews,
and is bounded by the parishes of St. Andrews,
Denino, Carnbee, Kilconquhar, and Ceres. Its
length eastward is between 5 and 6 miles; and its
breadth is about 4 miles. The surface is undu-
lating, and has a general declination to the east,
but is drained only by small burns, most of which
rise within itself. The only hill is Drumcarro
Craig, a rugged mass of whinstone situated in the
north-west. About 66 parts in a hundred of the
whole parish are regularly or occasionally in tillage,
about 25 are permanent pasture, rather more than
6 are under wood, and rather less than 3 are waste.
The total yearly produce, inclusive of £500 from
quarries, and £2,000 from coal-mines, was estimated
in 1837 at £24,600. Assessed property in 1843,
£8,219 3s. 6d. There are ten principal landowners;
but the only considerable mansion is Mount Mel-
ville. Limestone is extensively worked; and sand-
stone and whinstone are quarried. The parish is
traversed by the road from St. Andrews to Largo,
and by that from Crail to Cupar. Population in
1831, 1,207; in 1861, 1,362. Houses, 272.
This parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrews
and synod of Fife. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£199 12s. 8d.; glebe, £10. Unappropriated teinds,
£149 13s. lOd. Schoolmaster's salary, £34 4s. 4£d.,
with about £10 fees. The church is situated nearly
in the centre of the parish, about 3£ miles south-
west of St. Andrews. It was built in 1808, and
contains 495 sittings. There is an United Presby-
terian church at Lathones, on the St. Andrews and
Largo road, about If mile south-west of the parish
church. There are two private schools. The
parish of Cameron was separated from the parish of
St. Andrews in 1645.
CAMERON-BRIDGE, a hamlet on the . river
Leven, in the south-east corner of the parish of
Markinch, Fifeshire. Here is a very extensive dis-
tillery.
CAMERON-BRIDGE, a hamlet in the parish of
Liberton, 1J mile south of Edinburgh, on the road
thence to Dalkeith, Edinburghshire.
CAMILLA. See Auchtertool.
CAMISENDUN. See Durness.
CAMLACHIE, a suburban village in the Barony
parish of Glasgow, Lanarkshire. It stands chiefly
along the north road from Glasgow to Hamilton,
from a point about 1J mile east of the cross of
Glasgow, and connects the outskirts of that city with
the village of Parkhead. It is a dingy disagreeable
place, inhabited principally by weavers. Here are
an Extension church and a Free church ; the former
in the patronage of the Church Building Society,
and the latter yielding, in 1853, an annual amount
of £217 6s. ljd. Population of the village in 1851,
2.152.
CAMPBELL (Castle). See Castle-Campbell.
CAMPBELTON, a parish, containing a royal
burgh of the same name, and also the villages of
Dalintober and Drumlemble, in the Kintyre dis-
trict of Argyleshire. It is bounded on the north by
the parishes of Killean and Saddell; on the east, by
the frith of Clyde ; on the south, by the parish of
Southend; and on the west by the Atlantic ocean.
Its length southward is 12£ miles; its greatest
breadth is 6 miles; and its superficial area is about
43,750 acres. It is narrowed in the middle by the
b i y of Machirhanish on one side, and the loch of
Kilkerran, or harbour of Campbelton, on the other.
These bays run inland a considerable way, leaving
between the two oceans on the east and west a
large plain of 4 miles in length, by 3 in breadth,
and not 40 feet above the level of the sea. From
this plain both ends of the parish gradually rise
into hills, which attain the height of 1,200 feet.
Bear, barley, and potatoes, are the principal crops.
There is abundance of coal at Dalvaddy, a hamlet
at the distance of 3 miles from the town of Camp-
belton, on the road to Machirhanish bay; and a
canal has been cut to convey it to the town; but it
is of an inferior quality, so that a large quantity oi
the coal used in the town is imported. Porphyry,
and fuller's earth or soap-rock, exist in this parish.
The Duke of Argyle is the most extensive land-
owner ; but there are eleven others, — nine of whom
reside in the parish, mostly in pleasant mansions,
amid beautifully wooded grounds. The total real
rental, exclusive of the burgh, is about £18,570.
The rent of arable land is from £2 to £4 near the
town, and from £1 to £3 in other parts; but only
about two-thirds of the entire area are arable, the
rest being pasture and heath. Population in 1831,
9,472; in 1861, 8,149. Houses, 1,121. Assessed
property in 1815, £2,800.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kintyre, and
synod of Argyle. It consists of four original
parishes united: viz., Kilkerran, Kilkivan, Kilchus-
land, and Kilmichael. The charge is collegiate;
and there are two parish churches, both situated in
the town of Campbelton; in one of which, accom-
modating 1,528 persons, Gaelic is always preached;
and in the other, seating 1,083, English. The two
ministers officiate in the two churches, taking the
forenoon and afternoon alternately. The Duke of
Argyle is patron of both livings. The stipend of
each minister is £146 15s. lid.; but the annual
value of the glebe, belonging to the 1st charge, is
£89; that of the second £26 10s There is a Free
church in the town; and the yearly sum raised in
connexion with it in 1861 was £825 Is. lid. The
other places of worship are an United Presbyterian,
an Independent, a Baptist, a Methodist, an Episco-
palian, and a Roman Catholic; and all are situated
in the town. Sittings in the United Presbyterian
church, 1,200 ; in the Independent chapel, 300; in
the Roman Catholic chapel, 200. Attendance at
the Episcopalian chapel, from 80 to 130 The
parochial schoolmaster is also the burgh school-
master, and has a salary of £34 4s. 4Jd., with house
and garden and about £140 fees. There are also in
the town schools of industiy with two teachers, a
female school of industry with two teachers, a Free
church grammar school with two teachers, and a
school of the Society for Propagating Christian
Knowledge with one teacher, and in the village of
Dalintober a Free church school with two teachers.
There are also several private schools.
The tract which constitutes this parish, together
with the contiguous parts of Kintyre, was at an
early period the seat of a crowded population, and
the theatre of great events. The Dalriads who
founded the Scottish monarchy set their earliest
footing on this tract; and here, as well as in Lorn,
they matured the great social strength which con-
quered the kingdoms of Pictavia and Strathclyde,
and made the Scottish name commensurate with
Caledonia. See the article Dalriads. St. Kkran,
a preacher of high fame, who enjoyed the special
esteem of St. Columba, the founder of the Culdees,
and who afterwards figured in history as the apostle
of Kintyre, followed early in the wake of the Dal-
riadan colonists, and took up his abode in a cave
which is still called after him Cove-a-Chiaran situ-
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CAMPBELTON.
237
CAMPBELTON.
atcd lour miles from Campbelton, and having in its
centre a small circular basin, which is always full
of pure water dropping into it from the roof. A
church was soon founded at the head of what is
now called Campbelton harbour, and took the name
of Kilkerran, after St. Kiaran, and gave that name
also to tho harbour or loch. Churches and chapels
were speedily multiplied in all parts of the district,
to correspond to the density of the population, and
the deep devotion of the age ; and though all were
originally of frail structure and perishable material,
in keeping with the rude architectural condition of
the period, all seem to have been succeeded, in due
time, by substantial stone edifices, with, in very
many instances, the status of parochial churches.
There are still within the parish of Camnbelton the
ruins of the parish churches and part of the walls of
several small chapels, some or all of them probably
belonging to the 12th century, besides names, tra-
ditions, and vestiges of others of apparently earlier
dates. Great must have been the changes which
the early edifices witnessed during the struggles
which preceded the ascendency of the Scottish
power; and greater still must have been the changes
which followed that ascendency; for when Kenneth
removed the seat of his government from the bleak
western Highlands to the blooming eastern Low-
lands, Kintyre, in common with Lorn and the
Hebridean Islands, assumed the character of a re-
mote province, and began to be an easy and frequent
prey to Danish and Norwegian invaders. But the
Macdonalds, the Lords of the Isles, who maintained
contests for centuries both with these invaders and
with the Kings of Scotland, had their origin in this
district, from the famous Somerled the Great ; and
they restored it for a long time to much of its for-
mer consequence, rebuilt and multiplied its churches,
maintained or increased the minute division of it
into small parishes, made it the theatre of some of
their keenest contests for independent sovereignty,
and erected on the site of the present town of
Campbelton a castle and a village under the name
of Ceannloeh Grille Chiaran, or Head of Loch Kil-
kerran, or abbreviatively Loch-head, — a name which
the place still retains among the natives of the sur-
rounding country. " James IV. held a parliament
in Kintyre, where he emancipated part of the vas-
sals of the M'Donalds, and granted them de novo
charters, holding of the Crown ; and, in 1536, to
curb the license, and subdue the haughty spirit of
the chieftains and then vassals, James V. found it
necessary to make a voyage to the Isles. During
this expedition, the King repaired the fortalice of
Kilkerran, and left in it a garrison to overawe
M'Donald of Kintyre; but the bold chieftain and
his followers were not to be thus intimidated. Be-
fore the King had got clear of the harbour, they
added insult .to rebellion, took possession of the
fortalice, and hung the governor from the walls as
a signal of their conquest. The policy of a weak
government was then adopted, — that of commis-
sioning one tribe to subdue and chastise the other.
With this view, the lordship of Kintyre, then in
possession of Sir James M'Donald, was granted to
the family of Argyle." The castle of Loch-head be-
came then one of the seats of that family ; and it
was the place from which the famous Earl of
Argyle, in 1685, issued his declaration of hostilities
against James II. The contiguous village probably
soon took the name of Campbelton, or unabbreviat-
edly Campbelltown, from the new proprietor, yet
does not appear on record under that name till
1680, when a circuit court of justiciary was held
in it, and perhaps did not even then confer that
name on the parish, — which long after the consoli-
dation of the four ancient parishes comprised in it
was officially called the parish of Loch-head. Tb
site of the old castle is now occupied by the English
parish church.
Tho Royal Bunon op Casipbeltox is situated 10
miles north-east by north of the Mull of Kintyre,
35 west-south-west of Ayr, 49 south by west of
Lochgilphead, and 71 J south-south-west of Inveraiy.
It is a large and flourishing town, extending in a
semicircular form around the head of the harbour,
and having a number of villas scattered at either
end along the declivities. The harbour is about 2
miles long and 1 broad, in the form of a crescent;
with from 5 to 13 fathoms water, and excellent
anchorage. " Fertile as is the west coast in har-
bours," says M'Culloch in his Highlands and West-
ern Isles, "there is not one that excels this; which,
besides being spacious enough to contain a large
fleet, is perfectly landlocked, easily entered, and has
the best possible holding ground. The high and
bold rock, Devar, covers it from the sea completely ;
being attached to the land on the south side by a
spit of shingle, which has probably in later times
rendered that a peninsula which was once an island.
The rock produces some beautiful varieties of green
as well as of brown porphyry, easily wrought, to be
obtained of any size, and extremely ornamental
when polished, but as yet neglected. To the south,
the harbour of Campbelton is bounded by the high
and bold mountain-land which forms the Mull of
Kintyre; but, northward, the country is merely
hilly. This latter boundary is bare and without
beauty; but the southern one is not only bold and
various, but is tolerably wooded, in a country where
much wood is not expected. The burying ground
of Kilkerran, named after Saint Kiaran, is a very
pleasing and not an unpicturesque spot. The
castle of Kilkerran, which once stood here, is said
to have been built by James V. ; but it is imagined
that there was a castle long before that, which was
taken by Haco in his expedition against Scotland.
Campbelton is a place of considerable but variable
commerce. It occupies the end of the bay on both
sides, and is a town not only of a very reputable
appearance, but of considerable extent and popula-
tion. Some extensive piers serve for receiving the
smaller class of shipping ; and as it is always '
swarming with fishing-boats and vessels of different
kinds, it forms one of the gayest and liveliest scenes
imaginable. Detached villas and single houses,
scattered about the shore and the side^s of the
hills, not only add much to the ornamental appear-
ance of the bay, but give an air of taste and opu-
lence to the whole. A more picturesque and beau-
tiful situation for a maritime town could not well
be found; and, from different points, it presents
some fine views, — uniting all the confusion of town
architecture with the wildness of alpine sceneiy, the
brilliancy of a lake, and the life, and bustle, and
variety incidental to a crowded harbour and pier."
The town of Campbelton, previously a fishing-
village and a burgh of barony, was erected into a
royal burgh in 1700. The charter recites the sta
tute 15° James VI., c. 267, by which it was statute
and ordained, " for the better entertaining and con-
tinuing of civility and policy within the Hielandes
and lies," " that there be erected and builded within
the bounds thereof, three burghes and burrowe-
towns, in the maist connenient and commodious
partes meet for the samen ; to wit, ane in Kintyre,
another in Lochaber, and the third in the Lewis ; "
— and gives as reasons for the erection that Invei
ary, distant about 60 miles, was then the only
royal burgh in Argyleshire; that the burgh of
Campbelton was a veiy fit and convenient place to
CAMPBELTW.
238
CAMPBELTON.
be erected into a royal burgh ; and that the Earl of
Argyle, to whom the same belonged in fee, was anx-
ious for the erection. The boundaries of the burgh,
under said charter, are the loch of Campbelton, for-
merly called the loch of Kilkerran, on the east ; the
lands of Kilkerran and Corshill on the south ; the
lands of Moy on the west ; and the lands of Ballin-
gregan and Drumore on the north. The royalty of
the burgh lies within the above bounds, and still
belongs wholly in property to the Duke of Argyle,
with the exception of certain feus held under him,
and granted previous to the charter. It is stated
that there have been no feus granted since the date
of the charter. The sixth Duke and his predeces-
sors were formerly in the practice of granting build-
ing leases to the inhabitants for the term of three or
four nineteen years ; but latterly it has been consid-
ered that such leases are precluded by the terms of
the Argyle entail. Accordingly, since 1828, no
leases have been granted for a longer period than
nineteen years ; and it is stated, that even when
existing leases, originally for a longer endurance,
fall in, no renewal is now granted for more than
nineteen years. No part of the territory within
the burgh' is held in burgage. The parliamentary
boundaries of the burgh, for the election of a mem-
ber of parliament, extend considerably beyond the
royalty, and include the adjoining lands of Dalin-
tober, Lochend, and Dallaruin. The proprietors of
these lands are in nowise fettered, and are in the
practice of selling and feuing portions of their lands.
The consequence is, that the town of Campbelton
has been greatly extending beyond the royalty in
the direction of these lands.
Lord Teignmouth, in his ' Sketches of the Coasts
and Islands of Scotland,' gives us the following-
amusing piece of gossip relative to this thriving
town : " The trees which adorn the shore of the bay
were planted about 150 years ago by a Duchess of
Argyle, who was extremely partial to Kintyre,
fixed her residence chiefly at Campbelton, and in-
habited a house on a site now occupied by a small
farm-house, to which, however, it was much inferior.
This lady was mother of the great Duke John ; and
she is said to have adopted the following singular
method of acquiring, for the Duke, possession of
the estates of the different proprietors, Campbells,
to whom Argyle, after his conquest of Kintyre, had
granted them : — On pretence of revising, as the
story goes, she got into her hands and destroyed,
the charters of these unsuspecting people. Thus
the Argyle family revoked their original grants.
Campbell of Kildalloig, ancestor of the present pro-
prietor of this estate, pleasantly situated on the out-
side of the bay, owed the preservation of it to the
shrewdness of a servant, who, suspecting the inten-
tions of the Duchess, ran off, carrying away his
master's charter, and restored it not to him, till the
fraud became apparent. The family of this man
were, till within few years, employed, in grateful
recollection of his services, by the family at Kildal-
loig. The Duchess is said to have associated with
herself, in her retreat, several young ladies of rank,
whom she watched with Argus-eyed vigilance, lest
they should stoop to alliance with the lairds of
Kintyre. Impatient of restraint, they eluded her
observation, and are said to have preferred humble
freedom to splendid chains."
The public buildings of the town do not challenge
any particular remark. But in the centre of the
main street is an object of high artistic and anti-
quarian interest, — a very handsome granite cross,
richly ornamented with sculptures in relief. It
bears on one side this inscription in Saxon letters :
"Haec: est: crux: Domini: Yvari: M: K:
Eachyrna: quondam: Eectoris: de Kyregan: el
Domini : Andre : nati : ejus : Eectoris : de Kilco-
man: qui hanc crucem fieri faciebat." That is,
" This is the cross of Mr. Ivar M'Eachran, formerly
Eector of Kyregan, and of Mr. Andrew, his son,
Eector of Kilcoman, who caused this cross to be
erected." Gordon — by report only — mentions this
as a Danish obelisk, but does not venture its de-
scription, as he neVer saw it. The tradition of the
town, however, is, that it was brought from Iona,
or from Oronsay ; although it has been stated in a
lately published work, that the cross had probably
not been removed far from where it was originally
placed. A well of pure spring-water issues from a
fountain in the cross ; and around it, in general, the
fish-market is held. A lighthouse, with a revolving
bright white light visible 15 miles off, was erected
on the rock Devar, in 1854, at a cost of £4,916.
A chief employment in Campbelton is the distill-
ing of whisky. There are 25 distilleries, which
consume annually about 304,000 bushels of barley,
and 80,000 bushels of bear, and produce annually
about 748,000 gallons of wbisky. The consequent
demand for barley and bear has occasioned these
grains to be a ^taple produce of Kintyre. The
whisky is in great repute for good quality, and is
exported to the Scottish Lowlands, to England, to
Ireland, and to foreign countries. The excise estab-
lishment comprises nearly 60 persons. The herring
fishery in connexion with Campbelton was at one
time of vast extent, but fell almost completely away
on the withdrawal of the government bounty, and
has again revived. The number of boats employed
in it in 1842 was 150, and the number of barrels
salted 1,897, besides great quantities sent off fresh
to the Glasgow market. The cod and the ling fish-
eries also are considerable. The general commerce
of the town in 1744 employed only two or three
small vessels belonging to the port, but in 1843
employed 29, of aggregately 1,488 tons, besides two
large steamers. The arrivals of sailing-vessels with
cargoes in 1842 were 646, and the departures 365.
The vessels belonging to the port in 1860 were 43
sailing ones of aggregately 1,525 tons, and 2 steam
ers of jointly 279 tons; and the commerce of that
year was all coastwise, and comprised a tonnage of
45,479 inward and 35,835 outward. The principal
imports are barley, timber, iron, coals, and general
merchandise ; and the principal exports are whisky,
malt, draff, fish, black cattle, sheep, horses, pota-
toes, turnips, beans, and dairy produce. The town
has a custom-house, a jail, two excellent inns, ten
insurance offices, branches of the Eoyal, tha Com-
mercial, and the Clydesdale Banks, two circulating
libraries, four friendly societies, a total abstinence
society, and several charitable institutions. A
weekly market is held on Thursday ; and fail's are
held on the first Thursday and last Wednesday of
February, on the second last Wednesday of May,
on the second Thursday of August, on the Wednes-
day before the third Tuesday of August, on the
Fi-iday before Kilmichael fair in October, and on
the third Thursday of November. A regatta is held
in September.
The burgh of Campbelton was formerly governed
by a provost, two or three bailies, a dean of guild, a
treasurer, and 12 councillors. Under the new muni-
cipal act it has 17 councillors. It has no incorpor-
ated trades with exclusive privileges. The corpor-
ation revenue in 1833 was £668, of which £282 were
from ladle and causeway customs, and £120 from
anchorage and shores dues. The debts were under
£500 ; and the annual revenue generally left a bal-
ance for public improvements. The revenue, in-
cluding the harbour, in 1860-1, was £1,790. Tha
CAMPBELTON.
239
CAMPSIE.
Annual value of real property in 18(31-2 was £14,083.
Campbelton joins with Ayr, Irvine, luvcrarv, and
< >ban in sending a member to parliament. Consti-
tuency in 1861,224. Population in 1831, 4,869; in
1841,5,028; in 1861, 0,085. Houses, 775.
CAMPBELTON, a village in the parishes of Ard-
ersier and Petty, lnverness-shiro. It stands on the
coast of a picturesque bay, and on the old road from
Inverness to Elgin, and also on the military road
from Fort-George to Perth, 1J mile south-east of
Fort-George, and 1U miles north-east of Inverness.
It is a burgh of barony on the Earl of Cawdor's pro-
perty, and takes its designation of Campbelton from
his lordship's family name. The back street is the
part belonging to the parish of Petty ; and though
quite dovetailed into the rest of the village, some-
times bears the separate name of Stuartpwn or
Stewarton. The whole village has a poor appear-
ance, and sutlers serious detriment from the want
of a harbour ; yet it occupies a sheltered situation,
possesses a strong chalybeate spring, and is much
frequented as a watering-place. A community of
fishermen also inhabit its west end. On a high bank
behind it are vestiges of an ancient British hill-fort,
— supposed by some to have been a station of Oliver
Cromwell's troops ; and the new here is very exten-
sive, embracing parts of 8 or 9 comities. The vil-
lage has a small subscription library, several schools,
and an United Presbyterian church. A great annual
fair is held on the 12th of August. Population in
1861 of the entire village, 842; of the Ardersier
section, 716.
CAMPERDOWN. See Litt and Bekvie.
CAMP-KNOW. See Blastyee.
CAMPLE (The), a stream in the county of Dum-
fries, which has its rise in Wedder law, in the par-
ish of Morton, and running a south-west course of
about 8 miles, falls into the Nitb at Kirkbog. It
flows principally on the boundary between Morton
and Closeburn. It is an excellent trouting-stream.
CAMPMUIR, a hamlet in the parish of Kettins,
about 2 miles south of Cupar-Angus, Forfarshire.
In its vicinity are the outlines of an ancient camp,
supposed to be Roman.
CAMPMUIR, in Berwickshire. See Langton.
CAMPSA1LE. See Rosexeath.
CAMPSIE* a parish, containing the post-office
villages of Lennoxtown, Haugh-Head, Milton, and
Torrance, also the villages of Antermony, Birdston,
and Clachan of Campsie, on the southern border of
Stirlingshire. It is bounded on the south by Lan-
arkshire and Dumbartonshire, and on other sides
by the parishes of Baldernock, Strathblane, Fintry,
and Kilsyth. Its length southward is about 7 miles,
and its breadth is about 6 miles. The water- shed
of the Campsie Fells forms most of the northern
boundary; and the river Kelvin, here a small slug-
gish stream, traces most of the southern boundary.
Part of the Campsie Fells, rising to an extreme alti-
tude of about 1,500 feet above sea-level, and cut into
sections by deep romantic ravines and glens, consti-
tutes the northern district ; the South Brae, an east-
ern prolongation of the Kilpatrick Hills, with an
extreme altitude of about 700 feet above sea-level,
constitutes the western part of the southern district ;
and the strath of Campsie, not more than half-a-niile
broad in the extreme west, but gradually expand-
ing till it becomes lost in the great strath of the
Forth and Clyde canaJ toward the south-east and
the east, constitutes all the remaining district.
Three principal burns, and upwards of a dozen
smaller ones, come down from the fells, and form
Glazert Water ; and this runs across the low coun-
try to the Kelvin, at a point nearly opposite Kirk-
intilloch. The chief glens are famous for their
romantic picturesqueness, — comparatively long and
very elaborate, — presenting at BOme points striking
miniature resemblances to the Trosachs, — their bot-
toms strewn with fallen blocks, and their precipitous
sides shaggy with wood, and at the same time
shelved with artificial terrace-paths ; and in addition
to all their witchery and wild beauty, they are one of
the best haunts for naturalists within easy reach of
Glasgow; so that, altogether, they form a powerful
attraction to every class of tourists from the great
metropolis of the west. The Kirkton glen is the one
most commonly frequented ; but the Fin glen, on the
whole, is little inferior, and for at least its volume
of water and its cascades is superior. About 7,050
Scotch acres in the parish are upland, about 6,000
are arable, about 400 are under wood, and about 50
are covered with ponds and lochlets. The valued
rental is £6,437. The most extensive landowner is
Lennox of Woodhead, — whose mansion, Lennox
Castle, a recently erected structure in the boldest
style of the old Norman architecture, situated on the
brow of the South Brae, nearly 500 feet above the
level of the adjacent valley, is one of the most strik-
ing artificial features in a range of several parishes.
There are seven or eight other considerable land-
owners, most of whom are resident. Coals and a
very excellent limestone are extensively worked.
Alum, copperas, Prussian blue, prussiate of potash,
and some kindred substances are manufactured in
an alum work which employs about 180 hands.
Lennox-mill printfield, for almost every description
of cloth and calico-printing, employs about 690 ; Kin-
caidfield, for bleaching and calico-printing, about
375 ; Lillybum printfield, for linen and calico-print-
ing, from 150 to 190; Glenmill bleachfield, about 90;
and Clachan bleachfield, about 35. There formerly
was a distillery at Milton. The road from Kippen
to Glasgow passes through the parish, and a branch
of the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway, called the
Campsie branch, leaves that railway at a point about
6j miles from Glasgow, passes by Kirkintilloch and
Milton, has stations at these two places, and termi-
nates at Lennoxtown. Several trains run daily on
this branch; and coaches run between its Lennox-
town terminus and Strathblane, Balfron, and Aber-
foyle. The parish of Campsie, previous to 1649,
when one portion of it was annexed to the parish of
Kilsyth, and another portion to the parish of Bal-
dernock, extended from Garrel Glen to Craigmaddie
Moor, and was fringed along the south by a morass
impassable in winter ; and it then formed a very se-
questered district — the eastern division of the ancient
thaneship of the Lennox — and was not a little
marked by peculiar manners and customs. So late
as the year 1744, the payment of Black mail was
here made to Macgregor of Glengyle, for pro-
tection against the depredations of the Highland
freebooters. The last instance in this district of a
baron of regality exercising the jurisdiction of pit
and gallows over his dependents, is said to have
been exerted by the Viscourjt of Kilsyth, in the
year 1 743 ; when one of his own servants was hanged
for stealing silver-plate from the house of Bancloich,
upon a hill on the barony of Bancloich styled the
Gallow hill. Mr. Bell of Antermony, well-known
by his Travels in China and Persia, was a native of
this parish; where he inherited a considerable pater-
nal estate, and died in 1780, at the venerable age of
89. Mr. James Bell, a man of very considerable
literary attainments, and well-known for his exten-
sive and profound knowledge of ancient and modern
Asiatic geography, spent the latter years of a retired
and unostentatious life in a small cottage in this par-
ish ; and his ashes now rest in the beautifully seques-
tered burying- ground at the clachan c€ Campsie.
CAMPSIE FELLS.
240
CANISBAY.
Here are traces of two ancient Caledonian forts,
called the Meikle Reive, and the Maiden Castle, both
of them placed directly opposite the Roman wall
called Graham's Dyke, near which several urns con-
taining ashes and burnt hones have been discovered.
Population of the parish in 1831, 5,109; in 1861,
6,483. Houses, 665. Assessed property in 1843,
£18,140.
This parish is in the presbytery of Glasgow, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £285 3s. 7d. ; glebe, £13 15s. Unappropri-
ated teinds, £720 18s. 2d. There are three parochi-
al schoolmasters, at respectively Clachan, Ciaig-
head, and Torrance, who have amongst them salary
to the amount of £51 6s. 6|d., besides other emolu-
ments. The parish church stands at Lennoxtown,
is a handsome Gothic structure built in 1828, and
contains 1,550 sittings. An United Presbyterian
church at Lennoxtown was built in 1784, and con-
tains 593 sittings. There is also a Roman Catholic
place of worship at Lennoxtown. There are mis
sionaiy stations at Torrance and Milton, each served
by an assistant minister, supported by the congre-
gation of the parish church. There are several
private schools, a public library, a mechanics' insti-
tution, and several friendly societies.
The Clachan of Campsie stands at the opening of
the Kirkton glen, 1£ mile north-west of Lennox-
town, and 3J miles east of Strathblane. Here stood
the old parish church ; and here are still the belfry
of that building, the burying-ground, and the manse.
Population, 138.
CAMPSIE FELLS, a range of hills in Stirling-
shire, extending from the vicinity of the town of
Stirling to the vale of the Blane. But after being
briefly interrupted by that vale, it is prolonged
through Dumbartonshire to the Clyde at Dumbuck
by the Kilpatrick Hills. It may therefore be under-
stood as including these ; and thus understood, it
forms the south screen of all the part of Strathmore
between the Forth and the Clyde ; and at the same
time from its other face overlooks most of the great
strath of the Forth and Clyde canal, and commands
on that side very extensive and magnificent views
of the Lowlands. Its general direction is from east-
north-east to west-south-west. Its extreme length
may be about 25 miles ; its average breadth 8 miles.
The face of the hills is broken with crags and glens;
and on the summit and back part, is a deep moor-
ground interspersed with moss. The hills have the
appearance of volcanic or igneous origin; and in
many parts rude basaltic pillars are seen, particu-
larly on the road from Campsie, near the village of
Fintry. In many places the hills appear stratified;
but the strata dip much, and are sometimes nearly
perpendicular to the horizon. The secondary or
stratified tracts abound with coal, limestone, free-
stone, ironstone, indurated clay, and marl. In one
place a dozen or more strata of ironstone, with al-
ternate layers of argillaceous schist, may easily be
counted. In several places there are appearances of
copper and of lead. ' The highest ridge of the Campsie
Fells occurs between the sources of the Carron and
the Endrick, where they are elevated 1,200 feet
from its base, the elevation of which is about 300
feet above the level of the sea, making the height in
all 1,500 feet.
CAMPSIE LINN. See Cargill.
CAMPSTER, a locality in the south-west of the
parish of Wick, Caithness-shire, where fairs are
held on the second Monday of January, and on the
Tuesday in March after St. Patrick, old style.
CAMPTOWN; a post-office station in the parish
of Jedburgh, Roxburghshire. The place takes its
name from the vestiges of an ancient camp.
CAMSTRADDEN, an estate in the parish of Luss,
now annexed to the estate of Luss, Dumbartonshire.
The bay of Camstradden, in Lochlomond, is situated
a little south of the village of Luss, and opposite
Inch-Taavauich ; and Camden describes this as con-
taining an island, with the house and orchard of the
proprietor of this estate ; but the place of that island
is now marked only by a heap of stones, seen when
the lake is low.
CAMUSTOWN, a small village in the parish of
Monikie, about J of a mile south of the church of
that parish, Forfarshire. Camus cross, a large up-
right stone, is said to point out the place where
Camus, a Danish general, was slain and buried after
the battle of Barrie, in 1010. See Montkie.
CANAAN. See Blackford - Hill, and Morn-
ingside.
CANAL. See articles Aberdeen canal, Ardros-
san, Caledonian canal, Crinan canal, Forth and
Clyde canal, Monkland canal, and Union canal.
CANDAR (The), a rivulet of Lanarkshire, which
rises in the parish of Lesmahagow, and runs about
6 miles northward to the Avon, at a point about 1^
mile north-east of the village of Stonehouse.
CANDIDA CASA. See Whithorn.
CANDLE-HILL. See Ruthven.
CANDREN-WELL. See Paisley.
CANISBAY, a parish, containing the post-office
stations of Houna and Mey, and the detached places
or townships of Duncansby, Freswick, Gills, Hou-
na, East Mey, and West Mey, in the north-east of
Caithness-shire. It has a triangular outline, and is
hounded on the north by the Pentland frith, on the
east by the German ocean, and on the inland side
by the parishes of Dunnet, Bower, and Wick. The
island of Stroma, in the Pentland frith, also belongs
to it. See Stroma. The area of the whole parish
is about 50 square miles. The coast line of the
mainland district is about 18 miles in extent.
Duncansby Head abuts at its great angle between
the German ocean and the Pentland frith. See
Duncansby. For about 5 miles south of that pro-
montory, the Wart or Warth hill extends its base to
the sea brink. The coast is in this quarter exceed-
ingly bold, and the wild and varied magnificence of
the rocks is peculiarly striking to the eye of a stran-
ger. Beyond this, for about a mile, the coast sub-
sides into a beautiful sandy beach winding around
the bay till it reaches the mansion-house of Freswick,
where it resumes its rocky and picturesque boldness,
which continues with little variation till it reaches
the southern boundary of the parish. The lands
adjacent to the shore, for the last 3 ' miles, are all
under cultivation, and the soil is luxuriant and pro-
ductive. The northern coast has little of that stu-
pendous boldness for which the eastern one is so
remarkable. Westwards from the Head, for 2 miles,
the walk is extremely pleasant, and great luxuriancy
of growth prevails, from the shore to about a mile
inland. The beach itself consists wholly of shells
and shell sand of the purest white. In the middle
of this delightful walk, you approach the celebrat-
ed residence of John O' Groat [see article John
O'Groat's House] ; hut, although his name be stil
illustrious here, and has been bequeathed to cer-
tain shells, called Johnny Groat's buckies, with
which the beach is here strewn, the spot is scarcely
distinguishable where he dwelt. Westward from the
hum of Duncansby to Houna, moss prevails to the
sea brink ; but from Houna to Gills is one of the
most fertile districts in the parish. The parish-
church is situated in the middle of this latter dis-
trict, on a green rising ground within 200 yards of
the shore, the manse being about a quarter of a
mile inland from the church. Mey, part of the pro-
CANISBAY.
241
CANNA.
porty of the Earl of Caithness, terminates the parish
on tho wost. This is a populous and fertile dis-
trict. The bays upon the coast are those of Gills,
Duncansby or Dungisbay, and Freswick ; in all of
which, if tho weather be moderate, vessels can lie
in safety ant) take in their cargoes, but none of
them are eligible stations in rough weather. Gills
bay is preferable to the rest. A celebrated tide rans
near Barrogill castle, called ' The Merry men of
Mey,1 very noisy and obstreperous indeed, but no
subject of merriment to vessels, as they have to go
off their track many leagues sometimes to avoid the
vortex, and, when caught, are swept back on a
stream, like the rapids of a great river. This is
said to have been the scene of Grey's ' Fatal Sisters,'
translated from the Norse tongue.
Now tho storm begins to lower,
(Haste, the loom of hell prepare !)
Iron sleet of arrowy shower
Hurtles in the darken'd air.
All the inland districts are low and level. The
Warth hill, on the eastern coast, is of considerable
height and magnitude, but is the only one in the
parish deserving the name. The loch of Mey, in
the north-west corner of the parish, is about 2 miles
in circumference. There is no river, and only a
tew rivulets, in the whole parish; but there are
chalybeate mineral and fresh water springs in
abundance. The valued rent amounts to £3,855 3s.
6d. Scotch. The total yearly value of raw produce
was estimated in 1840 at £9,250, The Earl of
Caithness, Sinclair of Freswick, and Sinclair of
Brabster, are the only landowners. Brabster is an
inland property; all the other cultivated lands
stretch along the coast, extending, at an average,
about half-a-mile from the shore. There are three
popish chapels mouldering into desolation, one at
Freswick, another at Brabster, and a third at St.
John's Head. Some superstitious rites, now in
total disuse, were wont to be performed by the
ignorant vulgar, on particular days, at these ruins.
St. John's Head, upon the north coast, is one of the
pleasantest spots in the parish. It affords evident
tokens of having been, in former ages, a residence
of respectability; from a burying-ground and the
vestiges of an old chapel in the neighbourhood — now
in total ruins — as well as from the name it bears, it
would seem to have been consecrated to religious
purposes. The vestiges of a ditch and drawbridge
defending it on the land side, show it to have been
occupied as a place of strength and security. Betwixt
Brabster and Freswick there is a deep hollow, called,
in the dialect of the parish, the Wolfs geo, which
must have derived its name from being the haunt of
wolves in former times. There are other circum-
stances handed down by tradition, which tend to
prove, that this ravenous animal was once an in-
habitant of Canisbay. Barrogill castle, belonging to
the Earl of Caithness, is an old aristocratic pile.
It has, says Miss Sinclair, " all the internal elegance
of a house in London, and all the exterior dignity
of an ancient Highland residence. Some admirable
improvements have been recently made by Burn ;
and the staircase, which was formerly outside, as
high as the drawing-room floor, is now thrown into
the house, while several windows have been thrown
out, which were greatly wanted. In these peaceful
times, when there is no longer any necessity for a-
castle to be fortified, it is pleasing to see the gloomy
strength of former days exchanged for a more smiling
aspect ; and here we found some first-rate pictures
by the best masters, a haunted apartment, abundance
of interesting family portraits, and a forest of the
very best trees that Caithness can produce." The
ruins of three ancient towers or castles are still to be
seen, — one in Mey, another south of the present
mansion-house of Freswick, and a third on the west
side of the island of Stroma, — all built upon rocks
rising out of the sea, and formerly occupied as places
of defence. The principal public roads in the parish
are those from Houna southward to Wick, and
westward to Thurso. From Houna the ferry-boat
crosses with the mails to South Eonaldshay in
Orkney. The distance — being the shortest be-
twixt Caithness and Orkney — is reckoned 12
miles. Although the Pentland frith is deservedly
accounted the most tempestuous piece of sea around
Britain, it is remarkable how few accidents happen
in crossing it. The danger it threatens suggests the
means of preventing it. The time of tide is ob-
served to a minute in putting out to sea; the boats
are strong and of good construction; and the boat-
men perfect masters of their business, and acquainted
from their infancy with every circumstance respect-
ing the variation of the tides they have to go
through. See Pentland Fkith. Sometimes, how-
ever, the communication even with the adjacent
island of Stroma, is suspended for weeks. In the
summer-season there is almost a continued com-
munication betwixt Caithness and Orkney in the
traffic of horses. Colts from the highlands of Caith-
ness, from Sutherland and Strathnaver, are sold to
Orkney; and these very colts, when past their prime,
are again brought from Orkney, and re-imported
into Caithness. By far the greater number of these
cross to and from the shores of Canisbay, on account
of the shortness of the passage. Population in 1831,
2,364; in 1861, 2,730. Houses, 528. Assessed pro-
perty in 1843, £3,674 12s. 8d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Caithness and
synod of Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, Sin-
clair of. Freswick. Stipend, £205 10s. Id.; glebe,
£6. Unappropriated teinds, £151 7s. 2d. School-
master's salary, £34 4s. 4^d. The parish church is
an old cruciform building, repaired in 1833, and
contains 512 sittings. There is a Free church, with
an attendance of 500 ; and the yearly sum raised in
connexion with it in 1853 was £227 5s. Id. The
Independents have a place of worship at Freswick ;
and the Baptists a small one at the mill of Mey.
There are five non-parochial schools.
CANISP. See Asstnt.
CANNA, one of the four islands of the Hebrides
which form the parish of Small Isles in Argyleshire.
It is 3 miles north-west of Bum, and 12 south-west
from the nearest point of Skye. It is about 4£ miles
long and 1 broad; containing, with the contiguous
island of Sanda, 429 arable acres, and 1,794 acres of
green pasture. The gross rental in 1826 was £540
12s. lOd. Its surface is partly high and rocky, but
in no place rising more than 800 feet above sea level ;
and partly low, and tolerably fertile. The land is
higher towards the west end ; about the middle it
subsides into a flatfish neck, from which it rises
again towards the east. The horned cattle of Canna
grow to a larger size than any iu the neighbouring
islands, owing to the fineness of the grass. There is
little heath. Potatoes chiefly are cultivated. Cod
and ling abound on the coast ; and the harbours are
conveniently situated for the fishing-grounds. On
the south-east side of Canna lies Sanda, or San-
day, separated by a channel which is dry at low
water. See Sanda. Between this island and
Canna lies the well-known and much frequented
harbour of Canna, 30 miles distant from that of Eigg.
A great many basaltic pillars are to be seen in Canna,
particularly on the southern side, where the basaltic
structure appears iu different ranges rising in a suc-
cession of terraces. One of the hills to the north-
west of the harbour, called the Compass hill, is re-
Q
CANNICH.
242
CANONBIE.
markable for its effects on the magnetic needle.
When Dean Monroe wrote, Canna belonged to the
abbot of Icolmkill. It is now the property of Mr.
Macneill, who has done much for the amelioration
of its population, by encouraging emigration, pre-
venting subletting, and not allowing any public-
house upon it. AH the inhabitants are Roman
Catholics; and they have among them a resident
Eoman Catholic clergyman. Population in 1831,
264; in 1861, 127. Houses, 28.
CANNICH (The), a small river partly of Ross-
shire, but chiefly of Invemess-shire. It rises in
Ross-shire, about 9 miles north-east of the head of
Lochcarron, runs about 4 miles southward to
Inverness-shire, soon expands there into Loch
Moyley, and runs altogether about 14 miles north-
eastward and eastward in that county, to a con-
fluence with the Affaric, where it and that stream
form the Glass. The glen traversed by the Cannich,
and partly occupied by Loch Moyley, is called Glen-
Cannich.
CANNISBURN, a hamlet in the parish of East
Kilpatrick, Dumbartonshire.
CANNOR (Loch), a lake in the parish of Glen-
muick, Aberdeenshire, about 3 miles in circum-
ference, and containing several small islands ;
on the largest of which — about an acre in extent
— there formerly stood a small fortress occasion-
ally occupied as a hunting-seat by Malcolm Can-
more.
CANONBIE, or Canoby, a parish, containing a
post-office village of its own name, on the eastern bor-
der of Dumfries-shire. It is bounded on the south by
England, on the east by Roxburghshire, and on the
other sides by the parishes of Ewes, Langholm, and
Half-Morton. Its length east-north-eastward is 9
miles; its greatest breadth is 6 miles; and its area
is 36| square miles. It may be considered as the
low lands of Eskdale; for its highest grounds —
which rise gradually to the east and north-east — as
contrasted with the elevated peaks in the contermi-
nous parishes cannot be called mountains. At the
same time, the surface is very uneven, and diversi-
fied by ridges and flats, excepting the haughs on
the banks of the Esk. The central part is inter-
sected southward by the Esk ; and the great road
from Edinburgh to Carlisle runs through this dis-
trict in the same direction, amidst beautifully pic-
turesque scenery. The soil is a light loam, sheltered
by a profusion of wood in eveiy part. Besides the
Esk, this parish is watered by the Liddel, which
divides it from England, and the Tarp.as, remark-
able for its rugged channel and romantic scenery,
which divides it from Langholm : see these articles.
The Archerbeck and Rowanburn are tributaries of
the Liddel. The number of acres occupied by wood
cannot be less than 1,500, of which oak is the chief.
A number of orchards were formed here about 55
years ago by the Duke of Buccleuch, and have all
succeeded well. Freestone, limestone, and coal,
are abundant. At Rowanburn an excellent seam of
coal, 9 feet thick, is wrought; and another seam of
7 feet has recently been discovered. There are ex-
tensive lime-works at Harelawhill and Halhouse.
There is a strong chalybeate spring at Heathet, on
the Cumberland side of the Liddel; and a spring on
the banks of the Tarras which has a petrifying
quality. A branch railway is in contemplation from
this palish to the Caledonian railway, at Lennox-
town, a short way south-east of the Gretna station.
The Duke of Buccleuch is the only landowner.
Some ruins of a convent or priory, built before the
year 1165, are still to be seen at Halgreen — or, per-
haps, rather Haly or Holy-green — about half-a-mile
to the east of the parish church. The convent and
its church are said to have been demolished by the
English, after the battle of Solway Moss; which is
not improbable, as the reason assigned in King
Henry's manifesto for committing hostilities upon
the Scottish borders, not long before that event, was
a pretended claim to the parish of Canonbie, as part
of the English territory. Part of the old wall of the
church still remains ; and in this is a small circular
arch which belongs to the 11th or 12th century, and
probably marks the place of sepulchre of some prior,
or person of distinction. This parish, in consequence
of having been exposed to the incursions of the
English borderers, presents many vestiges of strong-
holds ; although there is only one whose walls are
yet entire, namely, the tower of Hollows, once the
residence of the famous border chieftain, Johnnie
Armstrong, in the reign of James V. It is a roofless
strength, built of red sandstone, in the fonn of an
oblong square, about 60 feet by 46. " Amongst the
clans on the Scottish side, the Armstrongs were for •
merly one of the most numerous and potent. They
possessed the greater part of Liddesdale and of the
debateable land. All along the banks of the Liddel,
the ruins of their ancient fortresses may still be
traced. The habitual depredations of this border-
race had rendered them so active and daring, and at
the same time so cautious and circumspect, that thev
seldom failed either in their attacks or in securing
their prey. Even when assailed by superior num-
bers, they baffled every assault by abandoning their
dwellings, and retiring with their families into thick
woods and deep morasses, accessible by paths only
known to themselves. One of their most noted
places of refuge was the Terras-moss, a frightful and
desolate marsh, so deep that two spears tied together
could not reach the bottom. Although several ot
the Scottish monarchs had attempted to break the
chain which united these powerful and turbulent
chieftains, none ever had greater occasion to lowei
their power, and lessen their influence, than James
V. During his minority, the kingdom was torn by
their dissensions, the laws were disregarded, and
even the rights of the sovereign were deeply in-
fringed. But no sooner did this gallant young
prince free himself from the vassalage in which he
had been held by Douglas Earl of Angus, and his
brother, than he began to reform the abuses in his
kingdom with such spirit and zeal, as manifested a
determined resolution to suppress them. After
banishing the Douglases, and restoring order and
tranquillity to the interior, he next directed his at-
tention to the due administration of justice on the
Border. He accordingly raised a powerful army,
chiefly composed of cavalry, ' to danton the thieves
of Teviotdale, Annandale, Liddesdale, and other
parts of the country.' Aware, however, that these
depredators could never be effectually crashed, un-
less the chieftains who protected them were properly
secured, he took the necessary precaution of forfeit-
ing, or committing the whole of them to ward, with
the exception of Cockburn of Henderland, and Scott
of Tushielaw commonly called the king of the Bor-
der, who were publicly executed. About the be-
ginning of June 1529, the King departed from Ed-
inburgh at the head of his army, and marched
rapidly through Ettrick Forest, and Ewesdale.
During this expedition, John Armstrong of Gil-
nockie, the hero of the ballad, presented himself
before the King with thirty-six of his followers, in
expectation of obtaining pardon. This Armstrong,
as we are told by Pitscottie, ' was the most re-
doubted chieftain that had been for a long time on
the borders either of Scotland or England. He ever
rode with twenty-four able gentlemen, well-horsed ;
yet he never molested any Scottish man.' It is said
CANONBIE.
243
CAPELAW.
that, from the borders to Newcastle, every English-
man, of whatever state, paid him tribute. Glen-
ockie came before the King with his foresaid number,
(thirty-six,) richly apparelled, trusting that, in
respect of this free offer of his person, he should
obtain the King's favour. But the King, seeing him
and his men so gorgeous in their apparel, frowardly
turned himself about and bade them take the tyrant
out of his sight, saying, ' What wants that knave
that a King should liave?' John Armstrong made
great offers to the King, that he should sustain him-
self with forty gentlemen ever ready at his service,
on their own cost, without wronging any Scottish
man. Secondly, that there was not a subject in
England, duke" earl, or baron, but, within a certain
day, he should bring him to bis majesty, either
quick or dead. At length he, seeing no hope of
favour, said very proudly, ' It is folly to seek grace
at a graceless face: but, had I known this, I should
have lived on the borders in despite of King Henry
and you both; for I know that King Harry would
down-weigh my best horse with gold to know that
I were condemned to die this day.' (Lindsay of
Pitscottie's History, p. 145.) — This execution is also
noticed by Hollinshead, who says, that, ' In the
month of June, 1529, the King, with an army, went
to the borders, to set order there for better rule to
be kept, and to punish such as were known to be
most culpable. And hereupon, he caused forty-
eight of the most notable thieves, with their captain,
John Armestrang, to be apprehended; the which,
being convicted of murder, theft, and treason, were
all banged on growing trees, to the example of
others. There was one cruel thief among the rest,
who had burned a house with a woman and her
children within it ; he was bnmed to death. George
Armestrang, brotber to John, was pardoned, to tbe
end he should impeach the residue, which be did ;
so they were apprehended by the King's command-
ment, and punished for their misdoings, according
as they had deserved.' (Hollinshead's ' Scottish
Chronicle,' vol. ii. p. 182.) This historian appears,
however, to have confounded John Armstroug and
his party with the whole other depredators who
were executed during the march. The place where
John Armstrong and bis followers suffered, was at
Cearlenrig chapel, about 10 miles above Hawick, on
the high road to Langholm. They were buried in
a desert churchyard, where their graves are still
pointed out. The peasantry in these districts hold
the memoiy of John Armstrong in high estimation,
and scruple not to affirm, that the growing trees
mentioned by the historians withered away as a
manifest sign of the injustice of the execution.
They likewise assert, that one of Armstrong's at-
tendants, by tbe strength and swiftness of his horse,
forced bis way through the ranks of the surrounding
host, and carried the tidings of the melancholy fate
of his master and companions to Gilnockie castle.
Although George Armstrong of Mangertou had re-
ceived a pardon from the late sovereign, the death
of his brother John was neither to be soon forgotten,
nor the descendants of the sufferers easily to be
pacified. Indeed the hostile and turbulent spirit of
the Armstrongs was never broken or suppressed,
until tbe reign of James VI., when their leaders
were brought to the scaffold, their strongholds razed
to the ground, and their estates forfeited and trans-
ferred to strangers. So that, throughout the ex-
tensive districts formerly possessed by this once
powerful and ancient clan, there is scarcely left, at
this day, a single landholder of tbe name. The
death of this redoubted border hero is noticed by
Buchanan. It is likewise frequently alluded to by
the writers of that age. Sir David Lindsay of the
Mount, in bis ' Satyre of the Three Estates,' intro
duces a pardoner, or knavish dealer in reliques, who,
in enumerating his halie wares, is made to say,
Here is anc coird baitli grit and lang,
Quilk hangit John the Armestrang,
Of pude hemp safe and sound ;
Gude Ilailie peopill, I stand ford,
Quha ever beis hangit with this coird,
Neids never to be dround!
In the ' Complaynt of Scotland,' John Armstrang's
dance is also mentioned as a popular tune. The
celebrated ballad of ' Johuie Armstrong ' was first
published by Allan Ramsay, in his ' Evergreen,' in
1724, who tells us, that he copied it from the mouth
of a gentleman of the name of Armstrong, who was
the sixth generation from the above John." [Sten
house's Notes to the ' Musical Museum,' vol. iv. pp.
328 — 332.] See Gilkockje. Near Penton Linns, a
romantic spot on the Liddel, was another Border
stronghold, called Harelaw tower, once the resi-
dence of Hector Armstrong, who betrayed bis guest,
tbe Earl of Northumberland, to the Regent Murray.
— The village of Canonbie stands on tbe right bank
of the Esk, and on the road from Edinburgh to Car-
lisle, amid beautiful scenery, 5i miles south-south-
east of Langholm. The parish church, an elegant
building, stands, in its vicinity, on the opposite
bank of the river. Population of Canonbie parish
in 1831, 2,997; in 1861, 3,219. Houses, 593.
Assessed property in 1843, £9,098 8s. 7d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Langholm, and
svnod of Dumfries. Patron, tbe Duke of Buecleuch.
Stipend, £236 12s. 6d.; glebe, £20. Unappropriated
teinds, £1,066 7s. 6d. Schoolmaster's salary, £31
6s. 6d., with £35 fees. The parish church was built
in 1822, and contains 1,000 sittings. There is a
Free church, with an attendance of from 400 to 450 ;
and the yearly sum raised in connexion with it in
1853 was £99 Is. S Jd. There are four non-parochial
schools. The original church of Canonbie stood on
tbe banks of the Liddel, and was often called the
church of the Liddel. A subsequent church stood
on the peninsida between the Liddel and the Esk,
and was for several centimes till the Reformation a
cell of the abbey of Jedburgh. In 1703, the half of
the old parish of Morton was annexed to the parish
of Canonbie.
CANONGATE, a large and ancient suburb of
Edinburgh, constituting all the eastern part of
the Old Town, and possessing the separate jurisdic-
tion of a burgh of regality. The parish of Canon-
gate also comprises Holyrood and Arthur's Seat.
Seethe articles Edinburgh, Holyrood, and Arthur's
Seat.
CANONMILLS, a small old suburb of Edinburgh
— formerly a mile distant from the city, but now
contiguous with the northern outskirts of the New
Town — situated on the right bank of the Water of
Leith, on the road to Trinity and Granton. Here
are extensive flour-mills, and tan works. Here also
are a tunnel and engine-houses of the Edinburgh
and Northern railway. See Edinburgh.
CANT HILLS. See Shotts.
CANTY BAY. See Bass (The), and Berwick
(North).
CANTYRE. See Kintyee.
CAOLISPORT, a sea-board district of the parish
of South Knapdale, Argyleshire. It comprises the
point of Knap, and a fine loch on the Atlantic ocean,
which abounds with fish of various kinds. It has
also a commodious harbour.
CAOLVALLOCH, a hamlet in the parish of Weem,
Perthshire.
CAPEHOPE. See Houxam.
CAPELAW, one of the Peutland hills, with an
CAPE WftATH.
244
CAPUTH-WESTER.
altitude of 1,550 feet above sea-level, in the parish
of Colinton, Edinburghshire.
CAPEL HILLS. See Newhills.
CAPE WRATH, a celebrated head-land, in the
parish of Durness in Sutherlandshire, forming the
north-west point of Scotland, in 58° 37' N. lat.,
and 5° W. long. It is a fine promontory of granitic
gneiss, towering up in a pyramidal form to the height
of 300 feet, and standing boldly out into the waves.
"Nothing," says Maculloch, "can exceed the ele-
gance and majesty of its form, declining towards the
sea in a second and much lower pyramidal rock; the
whole forming an outline as graceful as it is unex-
pected, and as grand as it is appropriate. No ves-
sels approach this shore, as the. rapidity and turbu-
lence of the tide are extreme; and as this is esteemed
both a difficult and a dangerous point to double.
The captain therefore thought fit to haul off and
stand further out to sea ; when, perceiving an aper-
ture through the pyramid, by means of the spying
glass, I proposed to the men to take the boat and
stand in shore to examine it more nearly. As we
approached the cape, an arched passage appeared
through each pyramid ; the largest being in the high-
est rock, and appearing to be about seventy or eighty
feet high. Nothing could now be more magnificent ;
the lofty cliffs on our right hand being broken into
a thousand rude forms, and the cape itself, with its
double pyramid, towering above them and projecting
far out from the land, like a gigantic wall, — a tri-
umphal arch worthy of Neptune. The green sea
was foaming all round the foot of the rocks ; and, as
we drew nearer, the low sullen roar increased, add-
ing awfulness to a scene already terrific. We were
soon sensible that we had been fast falling into the
most rapid stream of the tide ; and could now per-
ceive that it was running with the velocity of a tor-
rent, through both the passages and round the point.
The men held their oars in the water, for they were
now useless, and there was a dead silence. I saw
that they were alarmed, and uncertain what to do ;
but it was plain, in less than a minute, that retreat
was out of the question, and that if we attempted to
weather the point, we might probably fail, and be
lost upon it. I proposed to the boatswain to go
through the arch; since a minute's hesitation would
have carried us into the breakers, and left the his-
tory of Cape Wrath untold. To propose a choice
where there was none, was mere matter of policy;
but it served its purpose. Not a word was answered ;
and as the helm in my hand was now useless, all the
oars were kept in the water, to steady and steer by
through the boiling current; when, almost before
we had time to think what was to follow, we were
whirled through, I know not how, and, in an in-
stant, found ourselves lodged in an eddy in a deep
fissure of the cliff; the first, assuredly, who had ever
performed this feat. Here, with the flood, there is
some smooth water; out of which it is just possible
to scramble up, on a ledge of rocks within, a deep
fissure, and thus to study the scene at leisure. This
situation too is very fine; the green waves surging
with a hollow noise into this recess, which is only
illuminated partially from without, and extends per-
pendicularly upwards the whole height of the cliffs,
to an altitude of five or six hundred feet; just afford-
ing a glimpse of the sky. The aspect of the cape is
here tremendously striking ; as, from its proximity,
it now towers over head, to an imaginaiy and un-
limited height ; while the turbulence and roar of the
stream of tide through the arches, and the foaming
of the sea against the cliffs, added indescribably to
the effect. Nor was it a small addition, that this
situation was attended with some anxiety, if not
danger; as the rising of the wind, or the shifting of
the tide from the flood to the ebb, might have ren-
dered it impossible to get off again." In 1828, a
lighthouse was erected here at an expense of £14,000.
It shows a white revolving light, which is elevated
400 feet above high water, and is seen at the dis-
tance of 24 miles in clear weather. In 1838, the
expense of maintaining this light was £604 16s. ljd.
The Butt of Lewis on the south-west, and the Hoy •
head of Orkney towards the north-east, can be seen
in clear weather from the top of this lighthouse.
See Durxess.
CAPUTH, a parish partly in Forfarshire, but
chiefly in Perthshire. It consists of a main body and
several detached districts, and contains the post-office
villages of M&ikleour and Spittal-field, and also the
villages of Caputh- Wester, Craigie, Fungarth, and
Kincaimie. The main body lies wholly within the
Stonnont district of Perthshire, and comprises the
greater part of the rich plain of that district, to-
gether with picturesque tracts of upland on its
western and northern skirts. It is bounded by the
parishes of Dunkeld, Cluny, Lethendy, Blairgowrie,
Kinclaven, Auchtergaven, and Little Dunkeld. Its
length eastward is about 13 miles; and its breadth
varies from 2 to 7 miles. The Tay forms its south-
ern boundary for 10 miles; and the Lunan, with a
chain of beautiful lakes formed by expansion of its
water, drains and adorns the north. The soil along
the Tay is a rich loam, extensively alluvial ; that of
all the other low arable grounds is light and dry ;
and, though that of the uplands is cold and wet,
even it yields excellent crops. Clay-slate is exten-
sively quarried for roofing-slates. Limestone also
is abundant, but is only partially worked on account
of dearth of coals. The most extensive landowner
is Sir John Muir Mackenzie of Delvine, and there
are about thirty others. The principal mansions
are Delvine House, Meikleour House, G-lendelvine,
Snaigow, Stenton, Kincairney, and Hillhead. There
are several antiquities, as cairns, druidical circles,
Pictish forts, and Roman camps. A cairn lately re-
moved, called Cairnmore, and situated about 1 J mile
north-east of the church, measured 14 feet in height
and 456 feet in circumference, and was believed to be
the largest in the county. The detached districts
belonging to Caputh are Batholmie, locally situated
in the parish of Cargill ; West and Middle Gormack,
in Kinloch ; East and West Logie, Raemore, Cairns,
Chapelton, Meadows, and Crofty, in Clunie; aid
Craigtown of Dalrulzeon, in Kirk-Michael ; all in
the shire of Perth. And, South Bandirran, in Col-
lace ; Balbeuchly, in Anchterhouse ; Broughty
castle and fishings, and a small piece of ground at
Mylnfield, near Dundee ; and Fofarty in Kinnettles,
where there is a field of about 4 acres, called, from
time immemorial, the Minister of Caputh's glebe,
and believed to belong to him, though not hitherto
occupied ; all in the shire of Forfar. These remote
portions — with the exception of Dalrulzeon and Rae-
more— are now considered as belonging, quoad sacra,
to the parishes in which they are respectively situ-
ated. Population of Ca.puth in 1831, 2,303; in 1861,
2,373. Houses, 462. Assessed property in 1843,
£14,425 12s. 2d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dunkeld, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £232 15s. lid.; glebe, £22 10s. School-
master's salary, £34 4s. 4d., with about £30 fees.
The church crowns an eminence near the Tay,
about midway between the two ends of the parish.
It was built in 1798, and repaired in 1839, and con-
tains 800 sittings. There are five private schools.
CAPUTH-WESTER, a village in the parish of
Caputh, Perthshire. Population, 178.
CAR-. See Caeh.
CARA.
245
CARDROSS.
CARA, an island in the parish of Gigha and Cara,
Argvloshire. It lies about a mile south of Gigha,
and 3 J miles west of Kintyre. It is about a mile
in length, and half-a-mile in breadth. The shore is
high and rocky, except at the north-east end, where
there is a landing-place. The south end, called
the Mull of Cara, which is the highest part of the
island, is a perpendicular rock 117 feet in height.
From the shore to the foot of this precipice there is
a steep ascent, equal to 50 feet perpendicular, which
makes the whole 167 feet. This rock contains a
great deal of iron-ore, and in one place — which was
struck with lightning about the year 1756 — large
pieces of metallic-ore were thrown down, which
seemed to be a mixture of copper and iron. Close
by this part of the rock is a cave 40 feet long, 5
high, and 5 broad, which communicates with ano-
ther 37 feet in length, 9 in breadth, and 9 in
height. The north-east part of the island abounds
with rabbits. Adjoining the house of the farmer is
an old chapel, 26 feet long, and 12 broad, with a
Gothic arched door. See Gigha.
CARADELL. See Saddel and Skipness.
CARALDSTON, or Caeeston, a small parish
near the centre of Forfarshire, — bounded by Fearn,
Menmuir, Brechin, Aberlemno, and Tannadice. Its
post town is Brechin, 4 miles to the east. The
parish is about 3 miles long southward, and about 1
mile broad. The surface is well-cultivated, with a
gentle slope from north to south. The soil is deep
and fertile; and the banks of the South Esk and the
Noran, which unite in this parish, are beautifully
ornamented with plantations. The estate of Care-
ston formerly belonged to the Earls of Crawford,
and after passing through various hands became
the property of the Earl of Fife. The castle of
Careston is a stately edifice, — mainly built about
the beginning of the 15th century. The parish is
traversed by the roads from Brechin to Kirriemuir
and Forfar. Population in 1831, 252 ; in 1861, 225.
Houses, 47. Assessed property in 1843, £2,717 6s.
lOd. — This parish is in the presbytery of Brechin,
and synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Earl
of Fife. Stipend, £158 7s. 6d.; glebe, £8. School-
master's salary, £34 4s. 4d., with about £12 fees.
The church was built in 1636, and repaired in 1808,
and contains about 200 sittings. There is a private
school.
CARBERRY HILL, a gently rising ground, in
the parish of Inveresk, in Mid Lothian; 2 miles
south-east of Musselburgh, and 7 from Edinburgh.
Here Queen Mary surrendered herself to the con-
federated lords, June 15, 1567, prior to her impri-
sonment in Lochleven castle. The hill flanks the
right side of the vale of the Esk, and forms part of
a very beautiful landscape. See Inveresk.
CARBETH. See Killeaen.
CARBETT. See Mobebattle.
CARBOST, a post-office station, subordinate to
Broadford in the Hebrides.
CARBUDDO, or Kikkbuddo, the southern por-
tion of the parish of Guthrie, Forfarshire.
CARBYHILL. See Castleton.
CARCART. See Caee and Cathcart.
CARDAN'S WELL. See Mosimail.
CARDEN, a hill in the south-west of the Kil-
bucho district of Broughton parish, Peebles-shire ;
elevated about 1,400 feet above the level of the
Tweed.
CARDEN-DEN, a wide, fertile, unwooded glen
of about a mile in length, also a station on the Dun-
fermline branch of the Edinburgh and Northern
Railway, in the south of the parish of Auchterder-
ran, Fifeshire. See Auchterderean.
CARDONALD. See Paisley.
CARDONESS. See Anwoth.
CARDRONA. See Teaquaie.
CARDROSS, a parish containing a suburb of
Dumbarton, the post-office villages of Cardross and
Renton, and the village of Geilstone-Bridge, in
Dumbartonshire. It is bounded along the south-
west by the upper part of the frith of Clyde, and on
other sides by the parishes of Row, Luss, Bonhill,
and Dumbarton. Its length along the Clyde is 8
miles; and its breadth varies from 1J to 3 miles.
The Leven traces the boundary with Dumbarton.
The surface rises, with a gradual ascent, from the
Clyde and the Leven, and terminates in a ridge,
which passes on to the north-west, and whose
highest point on the boundary of Cardross has an
altitude of 943 feet above the level of the sea.
Most of the parish forms the whole north screen of
the Clyde from Dumbarton to Helensburgh, and
stands full in the view of passengers in the Clyde
steamers. A large and striking feature is the pro-
montory of Ardmore: see that article. The Clyde
between Dumbarton and Ardmore is from 1 to 2
miles in width; but a considerable tract of land
might be redeemed by embanking, the river having
evidently contracted its limits in this quarter. The
gains on salmon-fishings in the Clyde here were
very valuable in former ages, but are now of little
value. The fishings in the Leven belong to the
corporation of Dumbarton. On the shore of the
Clyde, the soil is gravelly and thinly covered with
mould; at a short distance, it becomes clay; the
lands adjacent to the Leven are of the nature o
carse. The natural wood and plantations cover
about 300 acres. The printfields and bleaching-
fields on the Leven employ a number of hands ; and
the village of Renton, founded in 1782, is rapidly
increasing. Near Renton, in the old mansion-house
of Dalquhum or Bonhill, was born Tobias Smollett,
the well-known author of ' Roderick Random.'
After a chequered life of 51 years, he died at Leg-
horn, whither he had gone for the recovery of his
health, in 1771. Adjacent to the place of his nati-
vity, Smollett of Bonhill, his cousin, erected a lofty
Tuscan column to his memory, with a Latin inscrip-
tion. A little west of the Leven, upon a small
wooded eminence called Castlehill, at the first mile-
stone from Dumbarton, stood a residence of King
Robert Bruce. In this castle — of which no vestige
is now discernible — that favourite prince, as history
and tradition inform us, breathed his last on June
7, 1329, at the age of 55. The principal modem
mansions are Bloomhill House, Keppoch, Ardmore,
and Camus-Eskan. It appears from a register of
the weather kept at Keppoch, from 1826 to 1832,
that the average highest range of the barometer
during these seven years was 30$>eo, and the lowest
28-^8,; while the highest range of the thermometer
was 84°, and the average 78°. There is preserved
at Keppoch an original portrait of Principal Car-
stairs. The road from Dumbarton to Balloch passes
up the Cardross side of the Leven, and that from
Dumbarton to Helensburgh goes along the shore of
the Clyde. The village of Cardross, the site of the
parish church, stands on the latter road, 3J miles
from Dumbarton, and 4J from Helensburgh. Ferry
boats used formerly to ply regularly between this
place and Port Glasgow. Population of the village
in 1851, 51. Population of the parish in 1831,
3,596; in 1861, 6,325. Houses, 523. Assessed pro-
perty in 1843, £14,374 18s. 6d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton,
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend, £155 8s. 9d.; glebe, £25. School-
master's salary, £34, with about £60 fees and other
emoluments. The parish church was built in 1826.
CARFRAE MILL.
24fi
CARLOPS.
and contains 800 sittings. There are two Free
churches, — the one at the village of Cardross and
the other at Renton. The yearly sum raised in
connexion with the former in 1853 was £99 13s. 8d.,
— with the latter, £348 4s. 5Jd. . There is also a
Free Church Gaelic preaching-station at Renton,
the proceeds of which in 1853 amounted to £11 3s.
5d. There are likewise a Reformed Preshyterian
church at Renton, and an United Presbyterian
church at Bridgend. There are five non-parochial
schools, and two public libraries.
CARESTON. See Caraldston.
CARFRAE MILL, a stage on the Lauder and
Edinburgh road, in the parish of Channelkirk, 5J
miles north-north-west of Lauder, Berwickshire.
CARG-EN (The), a small sluggish stream of the
east side of Kirkcudbrightshire. It issues from a
lake in the parish of Lochrutton, and goes eastward
to the Nith at a point about 3i miles below Dum-
fries. Adjacent to it, in the parish of Troqueer, are
the mansions of Cargen and Cargenholm.
CARGHIDOUN. See Whithorn.
CARGILL, a parish, containing the post-office
village of Burrelton and the villages of Cargill,
Woodside, and Wolfhill, in the Strathmore portion
of the eastern border of Perthshire. It is bounded
by the parishes of Cupar- Angus, Lethendy, Kincla-
ven, St. Martin's, and Collace. Its length eastward
is about 6 miles ; and its average breadth is about
4 miles. The Isla traces the northern boundary, and
the Tay traces the north-western and the western
boundary. The surface of the parish is finely diver-
sified with wood and water, and variegated by
gentle ascents and declivities. Rising gradually
for about a mile from the Tay, it then forms a plain
of nearly 4 miles in breadth, extending to the Sid-
law hills, which form the south-eastern boundary.
The soil, on the banks of the river, is a deep rich
clay; towards the middle, it is loamy; at the foot of
the hills, it becomes gravelly and unproductive.
Near the west end of the parish, the Tay forms
what is called the Linn of Campsie, by falling over
a ragged basaltic dyke which crosses the bed of the
river at this place, and extends in a right line many
miles to the north and south of it. Most romantic
and magnificent views occur along the Tay. The
salmon-fisheries on both this river and the Isla are
of considerable value. In former times this parish
abounded with wood: at present, there are only
about 100 acres of natural coppice, and 400 of plan-
tation. Several freestone quarries of excellent
quality and colour have been wrought here to a
considerable extent. Limestone also is found, and
might be wrought to good account. There is also
abundance of rock marl. Near the confluence of
the Tay and Isla are vestiges of a Roman encamp-
ment: the fossee are yet distinct, and the aqueduct
by which they were filled from a neighbouring river
is in a state of high preservation. A Roman road,
about 20 feet broad, composed of rough round stones
rudely laid together, passes along the high grounds.
■ — Stobhal],, formerly a seat of the Perth family, now
belonging to Lord Willonghby D'Eresby, is an old
fabric fancifully situated on a narrow peninsula on
the banks of the Tay. It came into the possession
of the family of Perth, in 1360, when Sir John
Drummond, by marrying Lady Mary, the eldest
daughter and co-heiress of Sir William de Montifex,
justiciar of Scotland, and chief of a most ancient
family, obtained with her the lands of Cargill and
Stobhall, which then became promiscuously the de-
signation of the family. — Upon a romantic rock
which rises perpendicularly over the Linn of
Campsie, are the ruins of an ancient religious house,
s<dd to have been dependent on the abbey of Cupar.
Next to the Kings of Scotland, the Hays of Errol
were the principal benefactors to this monastery.
The abbey of Cupar was supplied with fuel from
the wood of Campsie; and the road which the
abbots and monks made use of to convey it thither,
is still called the Abbey road. A considerable ma-
nufacture of linen is carried on in this parish, and
there are some bleachfields. The Scottish Midland
Junction railway traverses the parish, and has a
station in it. The village of Cargill stands near
the Tay, about J a mile below the influx of the Isla,
but is a small place. Population of the parish in
1831, 1,628; in 1861, 1,647. Houses, 339. Assessed
property in 1843, £7,785 17s. 9d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dunkeld, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £224 16s. 9d.; glebe, £14. Unappropri-
ated teinds, £4 16s. 6d. Schoolmaster's salary, £34
4s. 4Jd., with about £15 fees. The parish church
was built in 1831. There is also a Free church, the
yearly sum raised in connexion with which in 1853
was £116 8s. 7Jd. There are two private schools.
Cargill was formerly called the West parish, and is
said to have been only a part of the parish of Cupar
Angus ; but it was considered a distinct parochial
district as far back as 1514.
CARINGTON. See Caebingtox.
CARINISH, a mission and post-office station on
the east side of the island of North Uist, in the
Outer Hebrides.
CARITY (The), a rivulet of Forfarshire, rising
in the parish of Lintrathen and running about 9
miles eastward, across the parishes of Kingoldrum
and Kirriemuir, to the South Esk in the vicinity of
Inverquharity.
CARLAVEROCK. See Caeelaveeock.
CARLANRIG. See Caerlaneig, Teviothead,
and Canonbie.
CARLETON HILL, a hill in the parish of Col-
monell, in Ayrshire, which rises with a steep ascent
to an elevation of about 520 feet above the level of
the sea. It is situated so near the sea, at the bot-
tom of a bay of the same name, that at full tide
there is little more than room for the traveller to
pass without danger.
CARLIN SKERRY, an insulated rock, in Ork-
ney, about 2^ miles south of Pomona island, well-
known to seamen by the name of the Barrel of
Butter.
CARLIN-TOOTH, one of the Cheviot mountains
on the mutual border of the parishes of Southdean
and Castletown, Roxburghshire. The Jed rises on
the north side of it, and one of the headstreams of
the Liddel on the south side.
CARLINWARK. See Castle - Douglas and
Kelton.
CARLONAN LINN. See Aray (The).
CARLOPS, a village in the parish of Linton,
Peebles-shire. It stands on the northern verge of
Peebles-shire, on the right bank of the North Esk,
and on the road from Edinburgh to Dumfries, 14
miles south of Edinburgh. It was founded in 1784,
and is inhabited principally by cotton -weavers.
Here is a Free church preaching station, whose
yearly proceeds in 1853, amounted to £46 0s. 3Jd.
In the neighbourhood, on the south side of the Esk,
is a lonely glen in which the Covenanters are said
to have found a temporary refuge after the defeat at
Rullion-Green on the Pentlands, in November 1666.
On the north side of this glen are some precipitous
rocks — probably the " craggy beild" of Allan Ram-
say's ' Gentle Shepherd ' — from one of which, called
the Harbour Craig, the covenanting preachers are
said to have addressed their adherents. Farther up
the glen, at a place called the Howe, is a beautiful
CARLOWAY.
247
CARMICHAEL.
little linn, [gee Haubie's Howe,] which seems to
furnish further proof that these arc the very scenes
"that taught the Doric muse
Her sweetest song, — the hills, the woods, the streams,
Where beauteous Peggy stray'd, list'ning tile while
Iter gentle shepherd's tender tale of love."
James Forrest, the author of some pleasing poems
in the Scottish dialect, died at Carlops in 1818, aged
43. He was a weaver by trade. Population in
1851, 153.
CARLOWAY, a district of the parish of Uig, in
the island of Lewis. See Uig. Here is a Free
church, whose yearly proceeds in 1853 amounted
to £36 5s. 8d.
CARLUKE, a parish, containing a post-town of
its own name, and the villages of Braidwood, Kil-
cadzow, and Yelisliields, in the upper ward of Lan-
arkshire. It is bounded by Cambusnethan, Car-
stairs, Lanark, Lesmahagow, and Dalserf. Its
length south-westward is 8 miles ; and its greatest
breadth is 4J miles. The Clyde traces all the
south-western boundary ; and several rivulets drain
the interior to it along deep romantic ravines, locally
called gills. The immediate banks of the Clyde are
low, rich, warm haugh ; the central district is a sort
of table-land, averaging perhaps about 450 feet in
height; and the north-eastern district rises gradu-
ally from the table-land into a tract of wild bleak
moor. Several rounded hills, of the form called
laws, swell up from tie high grounds, and give
variety to the landscape, the loftiest of which, Kil-
cadzow law, has an altitude of about 895 feet above
sea-level. Nearly the whole parish is, in some way
or other, under cultivation. The soil near the Clyde
is light and fertile; farther up it becomes a rich
mellow clay, excellently adapted for trees, and gen-
erally covered with woods and orchards ; but in the
more distant fields, it is in general shallow, poor,
and unproductive. The banks of the Clyde are here
famous for fruit; insomuch that apples and pears
are produced in more abundance in this parish than
perhaps in any other district in Scotland. The or-
chards extend in length 5 miles, and are supposed
to comprehend nearly 130 acres. In 1822 they
produced £3,043 ; in 1838, only £444. Coal abounds
everywhere. Freestone, limestone, and ironstone
are also abundant ; and metallic calces and calcare-
ous petrifactions are sometimes met with. There
are 10 or 12 principal landowners, and upwards of
40 others. The present rental is nearly £30,000,
exclusive of the mineral produce, which may amount
to £20,000. Assessed property in 1843, £13,436
13s. 9d. Mauldslie castle, built in 1792-3, the
elegant seat of the late Earl of Hyndford, is situated
near the village of Carluke. Milton-Lockhart is a
fine building in the manorial style, very beautifully
situated, flallbar, an ancient square tower in this
parish, situated in a romantic dell, in a deed dated
1685, is called the 'Tower and Fortalice of Braid-
wood.' Ha'-hill, or Haugh-hill — an elevated mound
near Mauldslie castle — rises to the height of between
60 and 70 feet, and contains the remains of the last
two Earls of Hyndford. Various remains of anti-
quity have been dug up in the neighbourhood.
This parish gave birth, in 1726, to Major-general
Roy, whose abilities as a mathematician and anti-
quarian are well-known. The road from Lanark to
Airdrie and the western fork of the Caledonian rail-
way traverse the parish ; and the latter has stations
in it at Carluke and Braidwood. Population in
1831, 3,288; in 1861, 6,176. Houses, 895.
This parish — anciently called Kirk-Forest, proba-
bly from its situation in Mauldslie forest — is in the
presbytery of Lanark, and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr. Patron, Sir N. M. Lockhart, Bart. Stipend,
£231 19s. 6d.; glebe, £30. Unappropriated teinds,
£429 16s. lid. Schoolmaster's salary, £34, with
about £55 of fees. The parish church was built in
1799, and contains 1,000 sittings. There are four
other places of worship, — a Free church, an Original
Secession church, an United Presbyterian church,
and a Morrisonian Independent chapel. The Free
church has an attendance of 205 ; and the yearly
sum raised in connexion with it in 1853, was £106
9s. Id. The Original Secession church was built in
1797, and contains 470 sittings. The United Pres-
byterian church was built in 1833, and contains 770
sittings. Thelndependent chapel has an attendance
of from 95 to 130. There are six private schools.
The Town op Carluke stands on the table-land
of the parish, and on the road from Lanark to Air-
drie, 2 miles east of the Clyde, 5J north-west of
Lanark, and 19A south-east of Glasgow. It was
not long ago an inconsiderable village, but is now a
neat, large, thriving place, with numerous streets
of comfortable, substantial houses. It formerly sub-
sisted in a considerable degree by weaving, but
now it owes all its main prosperity to the work
and traffic of the circumjacent mineral field. It is
well supplied with shops in all the ordinary depart-
ments of retail trade. It contains all the churches
of the parish, a number of schools, several inns, a
parochial library, several benevolent institutions, a
savings' bank, and branch offices of the British
Linen Company's Bank and the City of Glasgow
Bank. Ample communication is enjoyed with
places far and near by the Caledonian railway.
Fairs are held on the 21st of May and the 31st of
October. A cattle show also is held on the last
Wednesday of July; and a chartered power exists,
but has never been acted on, to hold a weekly mar-
ket. Carluke, under the name of Kirkstyle, was
erected into a burgh of barony in 1 662. Population
in 1841, 2,090; in 1861, 3,111. Houses, 367.
CARMEL WATER, a small river of Ayrshire.
It rises on the eastern border of Cunningham, a lit-
tle west of Kingswell's inn, and runs about 10 miles
south-westward, through the parishes of Fenwick
and Kilmaurs, to a confluence with Irvine Water
about 3 miles above the town of Irvine. See Kll-
haues.
CARMICHAEL, a parish about 6 miles in length,
and from 3 to 4 in breadth, situated on the banks
of the Clyde and of Douglas Water immediately
above their confluence, in the upper ward of Lan-
arkshire. It is bounded on the north by Lanark
and Pettinain, on the east by Covington, on the
south by Wiston, and on the west by Douglas and
Lesmahagow. The post-town is Lanark. The
superficial area is about 11,500 acres, of which more
than a third part is arable. The surface is very
unequal. There are several hills of considerable
height, covered for the most part with short heath.
The famous Tinto is partly within the southern
boundary : see Tisto. The soil towards the Clyde
is thin and gravelly ; in the higher parts it is clayey
and wet. Coal and limestone, of excellent quality,
are found here. The real rental of the parish is
about £4,600; and the yearly value of raw produce
about £10,900. The late Earl of Hyndford, who
was the chief proprietor, enclosed and planted a
great part of the parish. Upon his death, in 1817,
his estates here reverted to Sir John Carmicbael
Anstruther of Elie, Baronet. The celebrated John,
third Earl of Hyndford, who was bom in 1701, and
died in 1767, was a great benefactor to this parish.
The period of his lordship's political life was during
the troublous days of Scotland, when the last of the
exiled house of Stuart made an unsuccessful struggle
CARMOUNT.
248
CARMYLIE.
to regain the British throne. Devotedly attached
to the house of Brunswick, the Earl -was always
high in favour with his Majesty, George II., by
whom he was appointed envoy-extraoTdinary to the
court of Eussia, upon a special mission ; and upon
the accession of George III., he was nominated
Vice-admiral of Scotland. Some idea may he
formed of his lordship's assiduity, from the fact
that, in the library in Westraw, there are 23 manu-
script volumes of his political life, in his own hand-
writing. Besides, during the whole of his stay
abroad, he kept up a regular correspondence with
his factor at Carmichael, in which he evinces an
accurate knowledge of architecture, agriculture, and
rural aifairs in general. A few years before his
death, he granted leases of 57 years' duration, in
order to improve his lands ; and even at that early
period — when the rudest agricultural practices were
transmitted from sire to son, and the most slovenly
habits, both in the field and in the dairy, were in
general use — the Earl introduced clauses into the
new leases which have since been adopted as the
most approved mode of farming. The greater part
of the beautiful plantations which adorn the now
deserted family-mansion of Carmichael house, and
which are excelled by none in Scotland, were reared
from seeds which the ambassador selected when
abroad, but particularly from Eussia. His remains
rest in the family burying-ground in this parish. —
Carmichael gave the title of Baron to the ancient
and noble family of Carmichael. James Carmichael,
the first Lord Carmichael, was created a Baronet by
Charles I. He was also, by that monarch, pro-
moted to be justice-clerk, deputy-treasurer, and one
of the judges in the court of session ; and, in the
time of the civil war, having lent His Majesty con-
siderable sums of money, he was created Baron
Carmichael, in 1647. His grandson was created
Earl of Hyndford in 1701. Population in 1831,
956; in 1861, 836. Houses, 152. Assessed pro-
perty in 1843, £5,279 lis. 9d.— This parish is in the
presbytery of Lanark, and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr. Patron, Sir "W. C. Anstruther, Bart. Stipend,
£225 2s. 7d.; glebe, £20. Schoolmaster's salary,
£32, with about £30 fees. The church was built in
1750, and contains about 450 sittings. There is a
private school.
CAEMOTJNT, a moor and a hill on the mutual
border of the parishes of Dunnottar and Glenbervie,
Kincardineshire. The moor is a flat tabular heath
of from 400 to 500 acres; and the hill has an altitude
of about 800 feet above sea-level.
CA.RMUNNOCK, a parish, containing a village
of the same name, in the south-west corner of the
lower ward of Lanarkshire. An annexation to it,
quoad sacra, by regular decreet of the competent
court in 1725, comprises portions of the parishes of
East Kilbride and Cathcart, and contains part of the
post-office village of Busby. But the proper quoad
civilia parish measures about 4 miles north-eastward,
and about 2J miles in mean breadth, and is bounded
by Eenfrewshire and by the parishes of East Kil-
bride, Cambuslang, and Butherglen. The greater
part is elevated, and commands an extensive pros-
pect, particularly from the summit of Cathkin braes,
about 500 feet above sea-level; from which, in a
clear day, Arthur's seat in the neighbourhood of
Edinburgh, Benledi in Perthshire, and the peaks of
Arran, are all discernible. The soil is partly a light
mould, and partly a strong deep clay, which, when
properly drained and manured, produces excellent
crops. Of the whole extent, which is about 2,800
Scotch acres, nearly 2,400 are enclosed and culti-
vated. The White Cart runs along the western
boundary. Its banks are here high, and in most
parts covered with wood, which, together with its
meanderings and the rapidity of its current, renders
the scenery very picturesque and romantic. The
road from Glasgow to Muirkirk passes through the
eastern district. In many places there are coal,
ironstone, and limestone, none of which, howeverj
has been here wrought to any extent. There
is also freestone. The principal landowners are
M'Lea of Cathkin and Stirling of Castlemilk.
Many tumuli, or sepulchral cairns, are to be
met with here, which, when opened, have always
been found to contain human bones and instru-
ments of war. On the estate of Castlemilk are
the remains of a Eoman military road, near which
have been found various Roman antiquities. In
the house of Castlemilk — which is noted for its fine
situation — Mary Queen of Scots is said to have
lodged the night before the battle of Langside.
The village of Carmunnock stands nearly in the
centre of the parish, 3J miles south-south-west of
Rutherglen. Many of its inhabitants are hand-loom
weavers. A fair used to be held in it on the first
Friday of June, but has gone into disuse. Popula-
tion of the village in 1851, about 400. Popula-
tion of the parish in 1831, 692; in 1861, 734.
Houses, 110. Assessed property in 1843, £5,511 4s.
4d. — This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the
presbytery of Glasgow, and synod of Glasgow and
Ayr. Patron, Stirling of Castlemilk. Stipend, £152
17s. 6d.; glebe, £19. Schoolmaster's salary, £34
4s. 4Jd., with about £32 fees. The church stands
in the middle of the village, was built-in 1767, and
repaired in 1838, and contains 470 sittings.
CARMYLE, a village in Old Monkland parish, in
Lanarkshire. It is noted for the beauty of its situ-
ation, having a fine southern exposure, watered by
the Clyde. This village originated in a muslin
manufactory, erected about 1741, by a Glasgow
merchant. Population, 506.
CARMYLIE, a parish among the south-eastern
Sidlaws of Forfarshire. It contains no other village
than the small one of Gray stone ; and its post-towns
are Muirtown, 4 miles to the south- south-east, and
Arbroath, 7 miles to the east-south-east. It is
bounded by Kirkden, Inverkeillor, St. Vigeans,
Arbirlot, Panbride, Monikie, Guthrie, and Dun-
nichen. Its average length is 4 miles, and its
average breadth 3 miles. It is a hilly tract of
country, with an extreme height of perhaps about
600 feet above sea-level, and commanding extensive
prospects ; but the hills are capable of cultivation to
their summits. Almost the whole district shows a
cold wet soil, on a till or gravelly bottom. There are
several moors and marshes. A part of Dilty-moss
lies on the western skirts. There are inexhaustible
quarries of grey slate and pavement stones, which
have been wrought for centuries, and supply the
neighbourhood, besides being exported to Perth-
shire, Fifeshire, Leith, London, Aberdeen, and
Glasgow. The stone lies in level beds, which are
about 18 inches in thickness, and are found close to
the surface; and it is susceptible of a beautiful
polish, and can be raised in very large slabs, so as
to be well adapted for billiard tables. The little
river Elliot issues from LMlty-moss, and drains the
parish in a south-easterly direction. The land-
owners are Lord Panmure, Ouchterlony of Guynd,
and Smail of Conansythe, and the two latter are
resident. The total yearly value of raw produce
was estimated in 1836 at £16,634. Assessed pro-
perty in 1843, £8,928. The parish is traversed by
the road from Broughty Ferry to Brechin. Popula-
tion in 1831, 1,153; in 1861, 1,286. Houses, 271.
This parish, erected in 1609, is in the presbytery
of Arbroath, and synod of Angus and Mearns.
CARNA.
249
CAENOCK.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £151 8s. 3d. ; glebe,
£30. Schoolmaster's salary, £34, with about £20
fees. The parish church seems to he upwards of
two centuries old, and contains about 500 sittings.
There is a Free church, and the yearly sum raised
in connexion with it in 1853 was £269 17s. 8Jd.
There are two private schools. A fair is held at
Carmylie. on the third Tuesday of April, old style.
CAEN. See Cairn.
CARNA, a small inhabited island, in the parish
of Morvem, Argyleshire. It lies in Loch Suuart, a
short way north:east of Oransay. It is rather high,
and has a rocky broken summit, but is verdant and
fertile on some of the slopes.
CARNACTI, a chapelry in the parishes of Contin,
Fodderty, and Urray, Ross-shire. The church was
built in"l830, chiefly at the expense of government,
and contains 320 "sittings. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £120, with a manse and glebe. The inha-
bited tract of countiy assigned to the chapelry is a
narrow valley about 14 miles long by one-sixth of a
mile broad. In 1830, the population was 1,056; in
1836, only 711, — a decrease attributed to the intro-
duction of sheep-farming. The population is com-
posed of small tenants of from £5 to £10 a-year, and
shepherds. The post-town is Dingwall.
CARN-A-MAIRCE, a mountain in Glenlyon,
Perthshire, elevated about 3,390 feet above sea-level.
CARNAN (The), a small tributary of the Etive,
in the parish of Ardchattan, Argyleshire.
CARNBEE, a parish in the south-east of Fife-
shire. It is entirely inland, and does not contain
any post-office, yet reaches within 1J mile or less of
the frith of Forth, and of the post-towns of An-
strather, Pittenweem, St. Monance, and Colins-
burgh. It is bounded by the parishes of Cameron,
Denino, Crail, Kilrenny, Anstruther, Pittenweem,
Abercrombie, and Kilconquhar. Its length and
breadth are each about 4 miles. A ridge of hills
runs east and west through the middle of it, and
rises in different places into fine green hills of a
conical outline, one of which, Kellie Law, has a
height of 810 feet above sea-level, and commands a
fine view. On the south side of these high grounds,
all the way down to the coast of the frith of Forth,
is an extent of rich fertile soil. North of the hills the
ground is much more adapted for pasture, though,
in dry seasons, even there the crops are abundant.
There are 16 landowners, and the valued rental is
£10,202 8s. 5d. Kellie castle, formerly the seat of
the Earl of Kellie, now belonging to the Earl of
Mar, was a large building, with stately apartments,
and pleasure-grounds laid out with great taste, but
is now used as a farm-house. Balcaskie, the seat of
Sir R. A. Anstruther, Bart., is a fine old building.
Pitcorthie, the seat of James Simpson, Esq., is a
magnificent modem house. There are some excel-
lent lime and freestone quarries, and coal is exten-
sively wrought. The parish is traversed by the
road from Pittenweem to St. Andrews, and by that
from Crail to Ceres. Population in 1831, 1,079; in
1861, 1,157. Houses, 249. Assessed property in
1843, £11,389 17s. lid.
This parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrews,
and synod of Fife. Patron, Sir R. A. Anstruther,
Bart. Stipend, £238 17s. 8d.; glebe, .£30. Unap-
propriated teinds, £236 13s. 8d. Schoolmaster's
salary, £34 4s. 47^d., with about £25 fees. The par-
ish church was built in 1793, and contains about
500 sittings. There is a Free church at Arncroach ;
and the yearly sum raised in connexion with it in
1853 was £116 14s. 9d. There are two private
schools.
CARN - CHAINICHIN. See Monivaird and
SritowAN.
CARN-DEARG, a mountain in the parish of
Fortingal, Perthshire, elevated about 3,140 feet
above sea-level.
CARNETHY. See Pentlands.
CARNIBURG, or Caiunburci, (Greater and
Lesser), two of the Treshinish isles, lying west of
Mull. There are some remains of a fort on Carni-
burg More, said to have been constructed by a
party of Macleans, who here held out for some time
against a detachment of Cromwell's forces.
CARNIEHILL. See Cairneyhili,.
CARN-NAN-GABHAR. See Blair- Athole.
CARN-NA-CUIMHNE. See Braemar.
CARNOCK, a parish, containing a post-office
village of the same name, and also the villages of
Cairneyhili and Gowkhall, on the south-western
border of Fifeshire. It is bounded by the Culross
district of Perthshire, and by the parishes of Sa-
line, Dunfermline, and Torryburn. Its length and
breadth are each about 3 miles. The surface is
level towards the east, but has a gentle declivity
towards the south and west, and rises on the north
and north-east into the hills of Craigluscar. The
soil is partly a black loam, and partly clay or till,
having in several places a mixture of gravel. The
rivulets of Carnock and Pitdennies have their banks
covered with plantations of fir, larch, and ash ; and
present very pleasing scenery in several parts, par-
ticularly at Luscar-den near Carnock. There are
several excellent coal-mines. Ironstone and free-
stone are also found. From the Ink-craig of Car-
nock there continually drops a fluid resembling ink,
which was analyzed by Dr. Black, and found to
contain coal, silex, and pure clay. The principal
landowners are Stuart of Carnock, Sir Peter A. Hal-
ket of Pitfirrane, and three others. The principal
residences are Carnock-House, Luscar, and New-
bigging, — the last formerly a place of note, but now
only a farm-house. The total yearly value of raw
produce was estimated in 1843 at £11,454. Assessed
property in 1843, £3,126 4s. 8d. The Dunfermline
and Stirling road, and the Dunfermline and Stirling
railway, pass through the parish. John Erskine,
of Carnock, professor of Scots law in the University
of Edinburgh, and author of the well-known Vade
mecum of young lawyers, the ' Institutes of the
Law of Scotland,' was bom in Newbigging house.
The famous Thomas Gillespie, the father of the
Relief body in Scotland, was minister of this parish,
but was deposed by the General Assembly in 1752,
for refusing to preside at the induction of a minister
who was obnoxious to the people. The village of
Carnock stands nearly in the centre of the parish,
3J miles west-north-west of Dunfermline. A fair
is held here on the 26th of May. Population of the
village in 1851, 184. Population of the parish in
1831, 1,202 ; in 1861, 2,925. Houses, 588. The
increase of population has arisen from the erection
of the Forth iron-works.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dunferm-
line, and synod of Fife. Patron, Stuart of Car-
nock. Stipend, £155 7s. 7d. ; glebe, £24. School-
master's salary, £34 4s. 4Jd., with about £16
fees. The old parish-church at Carnock was built
in 1602. It is a very small building, seating
only 240 ; but it is interesting as the church in
which Row the historian, son of the Reformer,
ministered. His tomb, with a Latin inscription
and a Hebrew title, adjoins. It is interesting also
as the church in which, at an after-day, Mr. Hog,
and Mr. Gillespie, whose deposition — as already
noticed — was the origin of the Relief, both succes-
sively laboured. A neat new church, in the Saxon
style, cruciform, and with a spire, was built in
1840, and contains 400 sittings. There is a Free
CAENOCK.
250
CAEE-BEIDGL.
church in Carnock, whose yearly proceeds in 1853
amounted to £68 0s. 6d. There is an United Pres-
byterian church in Cairneyhill, containing 400 sit-
tings. Attendance at the Free church, 200 ; at the
United Presbyterian church from 220 to 250. There
are a ladies' boarding-school, and two other schools.
CAENOCK, Stirlingshire. See Ninian's (St.).
CARNOCK (The), a rivulet of the western border
of Stirlingshire. It rises among the Kilpatrick Hills,
and runs about 6 miles northward and north- east-
ward, partly along the boundary with Dumbarton-
shire, but chiefly within the border of Stirlingshire,
to a confluence with the Blane, a little above the
point of that river's confluence with the Endrick.
It has in one place worn a romantic chasm, 70 feet
deep, through red sandstone.
CARNOUSTIE, a large village, with a post-ofSce,
in the parish of Barry, Forfarshire. It stands near
the sea, 3 miles north of Buddon-ness, and 6J miles
south-west of Arbroath. The Dundee and Arbroath
railway has a station for it. About nine-tenths of
the inhabitants are supported, poorly and fitfully,
by the weaving of brown and white linen. The
village has a chapel of ease, a Free church, an
United Presbyterian church, an Original Secession
church, a good subscription school, and a savings'
bank. Population in 1841, 1,268; in 1861, 1,488.
CARNSALLOCH. See Kikkmahoe.
CARNWATH, a parish, containing the post-
office villages of Carnwath and Wilsontown, and
also the villages of Braehead, Forth, and Newbig-
ging, on the north-east border of the upper ward of
Lanarkshire. It is bounded on the north and north-
east by Edinburghshire, and on other sides by the
parishes of Dunsyre, Libberton, Pittenain, and
Carstairs. Its length northward is 12 miles; its
breadth is 8 miles ; and its area is about 25,193 Scots
acres. The South Medwin and the Clyde, flowing
westward, trace the southern boundaiy ; and the
North Medwin, the Dippool, and the Mouse, all
flowing south-westward, drain the interior. The
parish has a general elevation of 600 feet above
sea-level, but rises in some parts to 1,200. About
one half of it is uncultivated, and looks very wild
and bleak. The soil of the several districts is very
different ; the holms or meadows on the Clyde being
of a deep clay, while on the Medwins it is inclined
to sand. There is a great extent of moor land, of
which the soil is a cold stiff clay mixed with moss.
About 400 acres are under wood. The Medwins and
the Dippool contain trout and pike. There is a small
lake, called the White loch, about a mile west from
the village of Carnwath, nearly a mile in circuit,
containing perch, and well-known to curlers as the
frequent scene of their manly and invigorating pas-
time. Two brothers of the name of Wilson, mer-
chants in London, in 1779, erected an extensive
iron-foundry in the northern district, and built there
the village of Wilsontown, for the accommodation
of the workmen and their families. These works
were peculiarly happy in their situation, as iron-
stone, coal, limestone, and clay, are found in the
greatest abundance in the immediate neighbc lrhood ;
but the failure of their projectors in 1812, was a
severe blow to the prosperity of the district. In
1821, the works were purchased by Mr. Dickson of
the Calder iron-works, and were again put into vig-
orous operation. — The ruins of the ancient castle of
Cowthally, or Cowdailly, a seat of the noble family
of Somerville, about a mile to the north-west of
Carnwath, on the edge of the moor, show it to have
been of great extent and strength. The Somervilles
settled here about the middle of the 12th century.
Sir John Somerville of Carnwath and Linton was
the steady adherent of Robert Bruce. In 1603, the
family of Mar purchased the barony of Carnwath,
but sold it in 1634 to Robert Lord Dalziel, created
Earl of Carnwath in 1639. The title was attainted
in 1715, but restored, in 1826, in the person of Gen-
eral Dalziel. The road from Edinburgh to Lanark
passes through the parish ; the Edinburgh fork of
the Caledonian railway also traverses all its length,
and has stations in it at Auchingray and Carnwath,
together with a branch to Wilsontown ; and the
junction of the Glasgow fork occurs at its southern
extremity. See Caledonian Railway. Population
in 1831, 3,505; in 1861, 3,584. Houses, 730. As-
sessed property in 1843, £14,206.
This parish is in the presbytery of Lanark, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Sir N. M'D.
Lockhart, Bart. Stipend, £250 7s. 6d.; glebe, £20.
Unappropriated teinds, £140 17s. 8d. Schoolmas-
ter's salary, £34 4s. 4£d., with £30 fees. The parish
church was built in 1798, and repaired in 1833, and
contains 1,021 sittings. It stands contiguous to a
part of the ancient church, which was founded in
1424, and was, previous to the Reformation, a pro-
vostry with six prebendaries. The aisle of the old
building has been successively the burying-place of
the Somervilles, the Dalziels, and the Lockharts.
There is a chapel in connexion with the Establish-
ment at Wilsontown, but it is seldom used. There
is a Free church at Carnwath, whose annual receipts
amounted in 1853 to £183 8s. lid. There are two
United Presbyterian churches, — the one at Carn-
wath and the other at Braehead ; and the latter was
built in 1798, and contains 500 sittings. There are
eight non-parochial schools.
The Village of Carnwath stands on the road
from Edinburgh to Ayr, adjacent to the Caledonian
railway, 6 miles east-north-east of Lanark, 7 north-
west of Biggar, and 25 south-west of Edinburgh.
It consists chiefly of one street, nearly harf-a-mile
in length, in which a number of new houses have
recently been built, and to which a parallel street
has been added. Its general appearance, as to both
buildings and cleanliness, has of late been greatly
improved. A weekly market is held for meal and
barley; and fairs are held on the last Friday of
February, on the first Wednesday of April, on the
first Wednesday of May, old style, on the first
Thursday of July, on the second Wednesday of
August, old style, and on the Friday before the 13th
of October. The August fair is chiefly for the sale
of lambs ; and on the day after it a footrace is run
for a pair of red hose given by the Lockhart family,
and a variety of games are practised. The village
has a subscription library, and a branch office of
the Commercial Bank of Scotland. Most of the
inhabitants are weavers. Population, 895.
CAROLINE-PLACE, a village in the parish of
St. Martin's, Perthshire.
CAROLSIDE. See Eaelston.
CARPOW. See Abeknetht.
CARRADALE (The), a rivulet of Kintyre, Ar
gyleshire. It rises in a central part of the penin-
sula, and runs about 7 miles south-south-westward,
past Saddell church, to Carradale bay in Kilbrannar>
Sound. It has a considerable volume, and is an
excellent angling stream. Remains of an old fort,
which must once have been a place of some import
ance, crown a rocky sea-cliff at the Aird of Carra-
dale ; and the ruins of a vitrified fort, of an ovoidal
form, and 150 yards in circumference, stand on a
small peninsula in the bay.
CARR-BRIDGE, a hamlet with a post-office in
the parish of Duthil, Morayshire. It stands on
Dalnain Water, and on the" Highland road from
Inverness to Perth, 8 miles north of Aviemore, and
24A south-east of Inverness. Here is a comfortable
CARRICK.
251
CARRIDEN.
small inn. Here also is a Free church, whose
yearly receipts in 1853, amounted to £24 2s. M.
CARRICK, C'uac, or Craig, any rocky locality,
either a single mass of rock, or a tract of country,
small or large, which has a rocky surface. The
word, especially in the form of Craig, is often used
also as a prefix in Scottish descriptivetopographical
names, — as Craignish, ' the rocky peninsula.'
CARRICK, the southern district of Ayrshire. It
is bounded on the north by Kyle, or Ayr proper ; on
the east by Kirkcudbrightshire; on the south by
Wigtonshire; and on tho west by the Atlantic
ocean. It comprehends the parishes of Ballantrae,
13arr, Colmonell, Dailly, Girvan, Kirkmichael, Kirk-
oswald, Maybolo, and Straiton. Its extent is about
32 miles in length, by 20 in breadth; its superficial
area may be estimated in round numbers at 300,000
acres. Its surface is hilly; and corresponds in
numerous places to the name Carrick, ' a rock.'
The mountains, especially on the north-west, seem
to be a continuation of that great ridge which, ex-
tending from the confines of England, through the
counties of Selkirk, Peebles, Lanark, and Dumfries,
meets the western ocean on the mutual border of
Ayrshire and Galloway. In the valleys between the
hills, and along the sea-shore, are many stripes of
level ground of a fine clay or loamy soil. The chief
rivers are the Girvan and the Stinchar. The Doon
forms the northern boundary; There are several
lakes, and a great part of the country is still covered
with natural wood.
Our old historian, Boece, with his usual fertility
of imagination, has discovered, in this district, a
large city totally unknown to every other historian.
Bellenden thus abridges his account of it: " In Car-
rick wes sum time ane riche ciete vnder the same
name, quhais ruynus wallis schawis the gret mag-
nificence thairof." Boece calls this city Caretto-
nium; but acknowledges his hesitation whether this
was the origin of the name Carrick or not. In a
manuscript emoted by Dr. Jamieson, we have the
following curious statement: — " No monuments of
batells to be seen in this couutrey, except nerr the
villidge of ancient Turneburrey, alonge the coste,
betwixt a litell promontorey and the sea. Ther is
3 werey grate heapes of stonnes, callid wulgarley
iJk Kernes of Blackinney, being the name of the vil-
lage and ground. At the suthermost of thir 3
Cairnes ar ther 13 gret tale [tall] stonnes, standing
vpright in a perfyte circkle, aboute some 3 ells ane
distaunt from ane other, with a grate heighe stonne
in the midle, wich (sic) is werily esteemid be the
most learned inhabitants to be the bvriall place of
King Caractacus; being most probable, in so far as
Hector Boetius sayes, that the King wes interna in
Carricke, quherein he remained during the most
pairt of his rainge [reign] ; and that from him this
countrey wes named Carricke ; and that thir
stonnes, his monument, are as yet standing nerr
the toune of Tumberrey, wich was questionles the
ancient Carrictonium. This same conjecture is
so muehe the more probable in that, that King
Galdus, that succeedit him, (I meane Carractake,)
his buriall place is yet knawin, within 3 mylles to
the toune of Vigtoune, in Galloway, which is after
the same forme, being 19 stonnes in compas, and 3
in the midle, wich then hes beine the most honor-
able forme of buriall, befor churches and church
yairds were designed places of sepulture. Ther is
found and obserued this yeir 1632, within a myle to
the castle of Turnburrey, some sandey landes, newly
discouered, wich formerly had beine ouerblouen.
Yet the new discouery reaches, in the ancient
ground, dounwards above ane eUe and a halflfe, as
the ther standinge knowes cleirly demonstrate, ex-
posing to the beholders numbers of coffins neatly
hewin of fivo stonnes, with oute eouer or bottome,
beinge 7. footc longe, and 3. vyde, all laying east
and weste, with an equall proportione of distance
ane from ane vther."
Carrick fell into the hands of the father of Robert
Bruce, by his marriage with Margaret, Countess of
Carrick, daughter of Neill, the Earl of Carrick. See
article Turnberry. King Robert granted the earl-
dom to his brother David. It afterwards reverted
to the Crown; and the title is still retained in the
royal family, the Prince of Wales, as prince and
steward of Scotland, being bom Earl of Carrick,
John Steward is not only designed ' Comes de Car-
ryk,' but the first-born of King Robert II. This
can be no other than that prince who, on his acces-
sion, changed his name to Robert, and thence ob-
tained the ludicrous soubriquet of John Fairnyear,
i. e., ' John of the last year,' or ' formerly John.'
David, the first-born of this King Robert, is de-
signed 'Comes de Carrie,' a. d. 1397, when, with
some others, nominated for settling disputes about
the marches with Richard, "our adversary of Eng-
land." This was that unfortunate prince who was
afterwards starved to death by his inhuman uncle,
who is named, in the same deed, as one of his asso-
ciates, under the designation of ' Robertus Comes de
Fyf, Frere du Roy.' The " lands and barony of
Tumeberrie" are mentioned as part of the heredi-
tary property of the Earl of Cassillis, a.d. 1616
The Duke of Argyle is hereditary keeper of the
palace of Carrick, as well as of those of Dunstaff-
nage and Dunoon. It may be viewed as a vestige
of the ancient honours of this palace, although now
in ruins, that one of the pursuivants (signiferi) em-
ployed in making royal proclamations, and in sum-
moning those accused of treason, bears the name of
Carrick. Among the original Melrose charters are
several of the old Earls of Carrick. Their seals
bear a winged griffin, but no armorial charge.
There is an interesting one, by ' Margeria, Comitissa
de Karrick,' and her husband, ' R. de Brus, Comes
de Karrick.' Both seals are entire, and identical,—
only the Countess's is a great deal larger than her
lord's. This Bruce's father, the competitor, bore
the arms of Annandale, a saltier, with a chief, plain.
Marjory and her husband bear the saltier and chief;
but the latter charged with what might perhaps be
considered as the Carrick griffin, though its wings
are rather scant}', — and it is very like a lion passant.
Population of Carrick in 1831, 25,536; in 1861,
27,224. Houses, 4,401.
CARRICK CASTLE. See Loch-Goil.
CARRICTONIUM. See Carrick.
CARRIDEN, a parish, containing the villages of
Blackness, Bridgeness, Cuffabouts, Grangepans, and
Muirhouses, on the coast of Linlithgowshire. It is
bounded on the north by the frith of Forth, and on
other sides by the parishes of Borrowstownness, Lin-
lithgow, and Abercorn; and it approaches within J
of a mile and 1 mile respectively the post-towns of
Borrowstownness and Linlithgow. Its length along
the coast is 3 miles; and its breadth is nearly 2
miles. The surface is very unequal, rises rapidly
from the shore, declines again to,the south, com-
prises part of the Irongath or Glour-o'er-em hills,
and has there an extreme altitude of 519 feet above
sea-level, yet is all arable and enclosed. The soil
is light and early, producing plentiful crops. There
is plenty of excellent sandstone ; and the whole
parish lies on coal of the best quality. The chief
landowners are the Duke of Hamilton, the Earl of
Hopetoun, Sir John G. Dalyell, Bart., Hope of Car-
riden, and two others. The total yearly value of
raw produce was estimated in 1843 at £19,379.
CARRINGTON.
252
CARRON.
Assessed property in 1843, £4,510 OS. 3d. There
are tolerable harbours at Blackness and Bridgeness.
There is a large tilery at Brickfield. Salt-making
was formerly carried on to a great extent at Grange-
pans, but has much declined. Three chemical
works, formerly in operation on the coast, are now
defunct. The wall of Antoninus is supposed to
have had its termination in this parish. Several
years ago, when digging stones to build a park-
wall, a number of axes, pots, and vases, evidently
of Roman workmanship, were discovered at a
place called Walltoun, and sent to the Advocate's
library in Edinburgh. In the reign of William the
Lion, Carriden was the property of William de
Vetereponte, with baronial rights. David II. con-
veyed this barony to Alexander de Cockburn ; be-
cause John de Vetereponte had alienated his rights,
without the King's license first obtained. Colonel
James Gardiner, who was killed at the battle of
Prestonpans, in 1745, was a native of this parish.
Population in 1831, 1,261 ; in 1861, 1,821. Houses,
226
This parish is in the presbytery of Linlithgow,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, the
Duke of Hamilton. Stipend, £249 17s.; glebe,
£25. Unappropriated teinds, £137 17s. 5d. School-
master's salary, £34 5s. The parish church was
built in 1766, and contains 458 sittings. There is
a Free church jointly for Borrowstownness and Car-
riden. There are three private schools.
CAKPJNGTON, a parish in the south of Edin-
burghshire, about 3J miles in length, measured
from north-east to south-west, by about 2 in breadth.
Its post-town is Lasswade, 4 miles to the north-
north-west; and it is bounded by the parishes of
Lasswade, Cockpen, Borthwick, Temple, and Peni-
cuick. The South Esk separates it from Temple
and Borthwick. The surface is hilly, and the soil
generally moorish. The landowners are the Earl of
Roseberry, Ramsay of Whitehall, and Dundas of
Arniston. Whitehall House, on the northern verge
of the parish, within 1£ mile of Roslin and Haw-
thornden, is a large and very splendid building,
erected in 1344. The village of Carrington, or Prim-
rose, stands near the South Esk, on the road from
Dalkeith to Peebles, 5 miles south by west of Dal-
keith. Population of the village in 1851, 161.
There are two other small villages, Thornton and
Whitefaugh. Population of the parish in 1831, 561 ;
in 1861, 681. Houses, 124. Assessed property in
1843, £4,617 7s. 8d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dalkeith, and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, the Earl
of Roseberry. Stipend, £158 7s. 5d.; glebe, £15.
Schoolmaster's salary, £34 4s. 4Jd., with about £10
fees. There is a Free church for Carrington and
Temple; whose yearly proceeds in 1853 amounted
to £108 14s. 3Jd.
CARROL ROCK. See Brora (The).
CARRON. See Carron- Works.
CARRON (The), a small but remarkable river in
Stirlingshire. It rises in or near the Carron bog,
and falls into the Forth at Grangemouth, about 3
miles north-east of Falkirk, after a course of 14 miles.
The Carron bog is a meadow of about 500 acres,
partly in the parishes of St. Ninian and Kilsyth, but
chiefly in Fintry. Its length is about 4 miles, and
its breadth is between 1 mile and 2 miles. Consi-
derably elevated above the ocean, it occupies part
of the table-land between the east and west coasts.
The Carron, passing through the eastern end, flows
to the frith of Forth; while a stream tributary to
the Endrick, issuing from the west, has its waters
conveyed by the last-mentioned river to Lochlomond,
which discharges itself into the frith of Clyde. The
bog has probably been a lake at no very distant
period, and gradually filled by the brooks washing
down earth from the hills. Part, indeed, is a swamp,
hardly passable in summer; and the whole is nearly
inundated by eveiy heavy rain. [See article Fin-
try.] The Carron, after leaving the bog, flows for
one-half of its course amongst bleak hills and rocks ;
and on emerging from these, rushes over a fine cas-
cade called the Auchinlilly linn spout. From this
it continues its course eastward, giving motion to
several paper-mills above Denny, and watering some
large printfields below it ; and then, winding through
"the bonny banks of Carron water," long since
famed in song, it passes near the hill of Dunipjce,
and the site of the ancient Roman structure called
Arthur's Oven: see that article. At Larbert a
dam is built across the river, which, with the lead,
supplies the great reservoir at the Carron works;
into this reservoir almost the whole water of the
river goes in summer.
The Carron is a small stream; yet there is no
river in Scotland, and few in Britain, whose banks
have been the scene of so many memorable transac-
tions. When the Roman empire was in its glory,
this river — according to some antiquaries — formed
the boundary of its conquests in Britain; for the
wall of Antoninus runs parallel to it for several
miles. Hence Buchanan in his ' Epithalamium,'
"Gentesque alias cum pelleret armis
Sedibus, aut victas vilem servaret in usum
Servitii, hie contenta suos defendere fines
Roma securigeris prajtendit maenia Scotis :
Hie, spe processus posita, Carronis ad undam,
Terminus Ausonii signat divortia regni."
Nennius derives the name of this river from Carau-
sius, who is commonly styled the usurper. The
translator of Ossian's poems informs us, that it is
of Gaelic origin, and that Caraon signifies 'the
Winding river.' This fully expresses one quality
of its stream, which, in former times, before it had
forced a new channel to itself in some places, and
been straightened by human industiy in others,
fetched many serpentine sweeps in its passage
through the carses. Nevertheless, if we say that
the original name was Caeravon, that is, ' the River
upon the Caers, or Castles,' alluding to the Roman
fortifications upon its banks, we shall perhaps give
an etymology just as probable, though equally un-
certain. Historians notice a bloody battle fought
near this river between the Romans and the con-
federate army of the Scots and Picts, about the
beginning of the 5th century. About half-a-mik
from the river, and the same distance from Falkirk,
lies the field where a battle was fought between Sir
William Wallace and the English, under Edward
I., in 1298. Not far distant from the same spot, the
second battle of Falkirk was fought in 1745, betwixt
Prince Charles Edward and the troops of the family
of Hanover, in which the latter were defeated. [See
Falkirk.] The Carron is famed in ancient Celtic
song. Dyer alludes to this circumstance in the fol-
lowing lines :
"Where is the king of songs? He sleeps in death;
No more around him press the warrior-throng;
He rolls no more the death-denouncing song;
Calmed is the storm of war, and hushed the poet's breath,
Yes ! Anderson, he sleeps ; but Carron's stream
' Still seems responsive to his awful lyre."
Hector Macneil, a native poet of Stirlingshire, has
thus expressed himself in the Doric strain :
" Round Carun's stream, O classic name 1
Whar Fingal fought, and ay ow'rcame ;
Whar Ossian wak'd, wi' kindling flame,
His heaven-taught lays,
And sang his Oscar's deathless fame
At Duin-na-bais."
CAERON.
253
CARE-ROCK.
Tho river Carron, though it has ceased to roll its
stream amidst the din of arms, yet preserves its fame
by lending its aid to trade and manufactures. The
great canal enters from the Forth at this river,
which is navigable for a few miles near its mouth.
During the heavy rains in September 1839, the
Carron suddenly rose 12 feet above its usual level ;
and scaling its shelving banks, converted into a
watery plain the circumjacent pasturage. At Dor-
rator, the Carron is bounded by eminences on its
eastern bank, which it is impossible to overtop ; but
taking here a circling course, a great expanse lying
between, made a double stream ; a rising ground in
tho distance curving with the river on the same
side, obstructed the gush, and joining with the wa-
ters on the opposite side, formed a beautiful bay.
CAERON (The), a fine rivulet in Nithsdale. It
rises at the toot of the Lowther hills, and, after a
southerly course of about 9 miles through the par-
ish of Durrisdeer, and along the boundary between
that parish and Morton, falls into the Nith, in the
vicinity of the village of Carronbridge. The Glas-
gow and South-western railway is earned over it
near the foot by a very noble viaduct.
CAERON (The), a small river in Ross-shire,
which flows about 16 miles in a south-west direction
through a chain of small lakes, and falls into the
head of Loch-Carron. It used to abound with sal-
mon ; but they are now scarce in it. See article
Locii-Carron.
CARRON (The), a rivulet in Kincardineshire,
which rises in the parish of Glenbervie, runs about
7 miles eastward, and falls into the sea at the town
of Stonehaven, forming a fine natural harbour. See
Stonehaven.
CARRON (West), a village in the parish of Lar-
bert, Stirlingshire. Population in 1851, 400. See
Carron- Works.
CARRON-BOG. See Carron (The), Stirling-
shire, and Fintrt.
CARRON-BRIDGE, a village in the parishes of
Morton and Durrisdeer, Dumfries-shire. It stands
on the rivulet Carron, and on the road from San-
quhar to Dumfries, If- mile north-west of Thornhill.
It has a station on the Glasgow and South-western
railway. Population in 1851, of the entire village,
25-1; of the Morton section, 199.
CARRON-HALL. See Larbert.
CARRONSHORE, a village with a post-office in
the parishes of Bothkennar and Larbert, Stirling-
shire. It stands on the left bank of the river Car-
ron, 1 J mile below Carron-Works and 2 miles above
Grangemouth. It is connected with Carron-Works
by a double line railway, and was formerly the port
of the Carron Company, but has declined under the
influence of Grangemouth, yet is still used for the
landing of lime and ironstone, and for dry-dock re-
pairs. Vessels of 150 tons can be tracked up to it
in ordinary tides. Population in 1881, of the entire
village, 1,035; of the Bothkennar section, 528.
CARRON-WORKS, a seat of vast iron manufac-
ture, with a post-office station called simply Carron,
in the parish of Larbert, Stirlingshire. It is situ-
ated on the left bank of the Carron, 2 miles north-
north-east of Falkirk, and 3$ east by south of
Grangemouth. It is celebrated as the most exten-
sive iron-foundry in Europe ; though, of late years,
a greater quantity of pig-iron has been manufac-
tured at some other works. These works employ
about 2,000 workmen. There are 5 blast or smelt-
ing furnaces, 4 cupola-furnaces, and 20 air-furnaces;
with mills for grinding fire-clay, boring cylinders,
and grinding and polishing cast metal ; and besides
the machinery which is driven by water, there is a
steam-engine of 90 horses power, which is used
entirely in the production of blast. All kinds of
cast-iron goods are manufactured here; not only
instruments of war, such as cannon, mortars and
carronades, shot and shells, but implements of agri-
culture, of the arts, and for domestic use, pipes,
boilers, ovens, vats, pots, grates, and smith-work
and machinery of all kinds. To a stranger, the
approach to the works is very curious and striking,
especially if made under the shade of night. The
perpetual illumination of the atmosphere, — the
roaring of the immense bellows, — the rushing of
water, — and the noise of the weighty hammers
striking upon resounding anvila, — suggest to the
imagination the idea of Vulcan and his Cyclops
occupied in preparing thunder-bolts. Two kinds of
ore are employed in these works together, in regu-
lar proportions. The first is a species of decomposed
haematites brought from Cumberland, which stains
the hand of a blood-red colour ; the second is the
common argillaceous iron-stone, of a yellowish
brown colour, and of a rocky hardness. From the
proper proportions of these ores, an iron is procured,
equal, if not superior, to the sable iron imported
from Russia. The Carron-works were first pro-
jected by Dr. Roebuck of Sheffield, in 1760; and are
carried on by a chartered company, with a capital
of £150,000 sterling, divided into 600 shares, which
are now in a few hands. The company hold and
work for themselves extensive mines of iron, coal,
and lime, besides possessing an immense stock ot
all materials requisite for carrying on the establish-
ment. There are two large collieries immediately
adjoining the works. The company have about 20
vessels for exporting their manufactures to London
and other ports, and for conveying ironstone and
limestone to their works. The several villages ot
West Carron, Carron-shore, Stenhousemuir, Cutty-
field, and Larbert, are all dependencies of either
Carron-Works or their collieries.
CARROY (Loch), a small sea-arm projecting
north-eastward from Loch Bracadale in Skye.
CARR-ROCK (The), the outer extremity of a
reef of sunken rocks, which extend, in an almost
continuous ridge, for about a mile and three quarters
from Fifeness, on the northern side of the entrance
of the frith of Forth. It is in lat. 56° 17', and long.
2° 35' west of London ; bearing by compass S.W.
by W. from the Bell-rock, distant 11 miles; and
from the Isle of May lighthouse N.N.E. J E. dis-
tant 6 miles. From a calculation made in 1809, it
appeared that, from 1802 to that period, no fewer
than 16 vessels had been lost or stranded on this
dangerous reef, which forms a turning-point in the
course of all northern bound ships to or from the
frith of Forth. An old fisherman, who had been
resident at Fifeness for above sixty years, stated
that there had been, within his recollection, at least
60 vessels lost upon the Can- : " For, if she missed
her mark one year, she was sure to hit twice the
year following." Under these circumstances, the
commissioners of the northern lighthouses were in-
duced to erect a beacon of masonry on this rock.
The rearing of this was a business of great difficulty,
from the smallness of the foundation afforded by
the rock, and the agitation of the waves on all half-
tide rocks. The length of the beacon rock, from
south to north, is only 72 feet; but its greatest
breadth, at low water of spring-tides, is only 23
feet; and it was found impracticable to obtain a
base for a foundation-course of greater diameter
than 18 feet; whence the impossibility of erecting
any building of sufficient height to be above the
reach of very weighty seas, which would at once be
fatal to the effect and apparatus of a lighthouse.
From the necessity of having to cut down the rock
CAESEBUEN.
254
CAESE OF STIELING.
under tide-mark, a moveable cofferdam had to be
used, out of which the water was pumped every
tide. The building' of the base of masonry alone
occupied three years, so difficult was the undertak-
ing; the operation being conducted only in good
weather, and at the return of spring-tides. A year's
work in such circumstances did not exceed 130
hours' working. It was eventually completed in
1818, after six years' labour. The lower part is a
circular building of masomy, 18 feet in diameter,
from the top of which spring six pillars of cast-iron,
terminating in a point, with a hollow hall of that
metal, which measures 3 feet across, and is elevated
25 feet above the medium level of the sea. The
works cost altogether about £5,000.
CAEEUTHEES. See Middlebie.
CABSAIG. See Kilitnichen and Kilviceueu.
CAESE BAY. See Ejekbean.
CAESEBUEN, a village in the parish of Forfar,
Forfarshire. Population, 105.
CAESE-GEANGE, a small village in the parish
of Errol, Perthshire.
CAESE OF CLACKMANNAN, the part of the
Carse of Forth, lying on the left bank of the river
Forth, within the county of Clackmannan. It is of
the same character as the part lying opposite to it
within the county of Stirling, hut of veiy much
smaller extent.
CAESE OF FALKIEK, the part of the Carse of
Forth, lying along the right hank of the river Forth,
from Airth in Stirlingshire to Borrowstownness in
Linlithgowshire. It is all veiy nearly a dead level,
and is the richest portion of the whole carse — parti-
cularly within the parishes of Bothkennar and Fal-
kirk,— seeming everywhere the beau ideal of luxu-
riance.
CAESE OF FOETH, a great tract of low, flat,
alluvial land, along both banks of the river Forth,
in the counties of Perth, Stirling, Clackmannan, and
Linlithgow. It extends from the foot of the Gram-
pians, in the neighbourhood of Gartmore, away
through the opening between the Lennox and the
Ochil Hills, on to the low country in the vicinity of
Borrowstownness. " If," says Dr. Graham, " all
the carse lands, which skirt the Forth on both sides,
be taken into the account, it may be computed at
the average length of 34 miles, by 6 in breadth ;
amounting to 204 square miles, or 103,800 Scots
acres nearly, and unquestionably constituting the
richest and most important district of Scotland, in
an agricultural point of view. This soil is evidently
alluvial ; and the substances which are found in it,
as well as the aspect of the higher grounds by which
it is bounded, indicate that, at some former period,
it was covered by the sea. The soil itself consists
of the finest particles of earth, without the smallest
stone or pebble except what may have been acci-
dentally carried thither. The soil of the best quality,
when first taken up from its bed, is of a bluish col-
our, and of a soapy or mucilaginous consistence.
That which has been long exposed to the sun, and
to the elements, by cultivation, assumes a darker
hue, or hazle colour ; and in point of friability, ap-
proaches to the character of loam. Beds of shells,
particularly oysters, and others which are usually
found in the frith, occur from time to time, from a
few inches to four feet in thickness. Throughout
the whole of these carses, patches of till occur, espe-
cially in the district to the westward of Stirling.
Indeed, as we ascend the Forth towards the west,
this soil becomes gradually of inferior quality.
These carses are elevated from 12 to 20 or 25 feet
above the level of the sea at high-water. At the
same time it is evident that this soil is alluvial,
there seems to be room to question whether this
deep and extensive tract of clay, stretching along
both sides of the Forth, is to be attributed solely tc
the deposit of that river through the course of ages.
The cause appears to be altogether inadequate tn
such a prodigious effect. The Clyde, which runs
through a course at least as long", and carries an
equal body of water to the sea, has formed no allu-
vial land at its embouchure ; and it will probably be
found that no river that runs westward has, by its
alluvion, formed any considerable deposit of soil.
The quantity of earthy particles that are carried
down by rivers and streams from the mountains is
much less than has been generally imagined. It
would seem, that at some distant period, the waters
of the German ocean had regurgitated to the west-
ward, and covered, for a considerable time, those
plains, depositing there the rich particles of soil
with which they were, in consequence of some re-
volution of nature, copiously impregnated. If any
stress could be laid on the universal tradition of the
country, it would lead to the belief that this whole
plain, as far west as Gartmore, was formerly covered
by the sea."
CAESE OF GOWEIE, a low, flat, alluvial dis-
trict, extending along the north hank of the Tay,
from the base of Kinnoul Hill in Perthshire to the
vicinity of Dundee in Forfarshire. It measures
about 15 miles in length, and from 2 to 4 in breadth,
lies at an elevation of from 24 to 40 feet above
sea-level, and is flanked along the north by the
Sidlaw Hills. Excepting a moor of about 8 square
miles extending eastward from Kinnoul Hill, it is
all rich arable land, cultivated like a garden, cut
into fields only by drain-ditches or low hedge-rows,
and looking in summer like a sea of com, thinly
yet proudly isleted with houses and trees. It
contains a few villages, and about 20 propriato-
rial mansions, but otherwise is farmed with the ut-
most parsimony of space. All of it evidently was
at one time under water; much perhaps was so
even at the time when the surrounding country be-
came first inhabited ; and some parts which at this
day are very fine arable land, were an extensive mo-
rass within the recollection of several persons still or
recently alive. The Tay is supposed to have formed
a circuit round the carse, washing the foot of the
Sidlaw hills, and entering its present channel at
Invergowrie. Staples for holding cables have been
found at the foot of the Sidlaw hills, to the north of
the flat land ; and the parish of St. Madoes, now in
the carse, is said to have been once on the southern
side of the river. Several swells or very low emi-
nences diversify the general level of the plain, and
seem to have been islands at a time when all the
rest was still under water. They bear the name of
inches, — the Gaelic name for islands, — such as Inch •
yre, Inchmichael, Inchconans, Inchtyre, and Megg-
inch. The soil on them is very different from that
of the low ground, being a red till, approaching
the nature of loam, while that of the low ground
is a blue clay of a veiy rich quality. Previous to
1760, the carse was disfigured with many large
pools of water ; but these have been all drained. Ly-
ing on the banks of the Tay, the Carse of Gowrie
possesses a few tolerable harbours, the chief of which
is at Errol, nearly in the centre of the district.
CAESE OF KINNEIL. See Borrowstownness.
CAESE OF STIELING, the part of the Carse of
Forth which extends along the right bank of the
Forth, from Craigforth to Airth, in Stirlingshire ; or
according to some persons, the parts also on the left
bank of the river, from the moss of Kincardine to
the mouth of the Devon, within the counties of
Perth, Stirling, and Clackmannan. See Cause fin"
Forth.
CARSETHORN.
255
CART.
CAESBTHOEN, a village in the parish of Kirk-
bean, Kirkcudbrightshire. Population in 1851, 157.
Seo Kirkbean.
CAKSKEY, a small bay, where vessels may oc-
casionally anchor, about 3 miles cast-north-oast of
the Mull of Kintyre, Argyleshire.
CARSLOGIE. See Cupar-Fife.
CARSPHAIRN, a parish, containing a post-office
village of its own name, on the northern border of
Kirkcudbrightshire. It is bounded on the west and
north by Ayrshire, and on other sides by the parishes
of Dairy and Kells. Measured from the Gallow-
rigg, on the north-east, to the head streams of Dee
water on the south-west, it is upwards of 15 miles
in extent ; and its greatest breadth is about 10 miles.
The Deugh water intersects it from north-west to
south-east, and after receiving numerous tributaries,
joins the Ken — which separates Carsphaim from
Dairy — at the south-east extremity of the parish.
Loch Doon lies partly on the western boundary. The
surface of the parish is mountainous, with the ex-
ception of a small plain towards the centre, on which
the village is situated, and a few spots on the sides
of the rivulets. The hills are in general green, in-
terspersed with moss. The highest ground is Cairxs-
muir: which see. Formerly there were extensive
forests of natural wood, and iron mines are said to
have been wrought in this district. About 1839,
the Hon. Colonel Macadam Catheart began to work
a lead-mine at Woodhead. See Woodhead. Many
of the springs contain iron dissolved by means of
carbonic acid, and are esteemed for their tonic qua-
lity. The landowners are Catheart of Craigengillan,
Clarke of Knoekgray, M'Millen of Holm, and eight
others. Sir Loudon M'Adani, the celebrated en-
gineer and road-constructor, was bora at Water-
head in Carsphaim. His father shortly afterwards
sold the greater part of his estate, and went to live
at Lagwine, a few miles farther down the river
Deugh. His residence there was unfortunately
consumed by fire, and he left Scotland at the time
his son was about six years old, for America, where
he embarked in mercantile speculations. He was
succeeded in his business by his son. On what
account he returned to Britain we are not informed ;
hut, in consequence of some chemical discoveries,
he made an advantageous government contract,
which ultimately led him— perhaps accidentally
— to suggest the improvements upon the roads to
which he is principally indebted for celebrity. The
parish is traversed along the glen of the Deugh by
the road from Ayr to Dumfries. The village of
Carsphaim stands on that road, about 12 miles north-
north-west of New Galloway. Population of the
village in 1851, 103. Population of the parish in
1831, 542; in 1861, 553. Houses, 98. Assessed
property in 1843, £5,414.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcudbright,
and synod of Galloway. Patrons, the Crown and
Forbes of Callender. Stipend, £182 10s., with glebe
of the value of £27. Unappropriated teinds, £94
7s. 7d. The sum of £9 19s. 6d. of the Crown
lands of this parish is paid to the minister of Kells,
out of which parish Carsphaim was formed. School-
master's salary, £34 4s. 4Jd.. with about £14 fees.
The parish church was built about 1815, and re-
paired_ in 1837, and contains about 400 sittings.
There is a Free church for Carsphaim and Dalmelling-
ton, with an attendance of 250 ; and the yearly sum
raised in connexion with it in 1853, was £116 lis. 5d.
CARSTAIRS, a parish, containing the villages of
Carstairs and Raven struther, whose post-town is Lan-
ark, in the upper ward of Lanarkshire. It is bounded
by Cambusnethan, Camwath, Pettinain, Lanark,
ir d Carluke. Its length south-eastward is 6 miles :
and its breadth is about 3 miles. The Clyde traces
the southern boundary, and the Mouse runs across
the interior. The superficial area is about 12.000
acres; of which about 10,000 are under cultiva-
tion. It is divided into two districts by a ridge of
rising ground so uniform that it appears from the
public road to have been artificially formed. The
higher ground is a mixture of clay and mossy earth,
and the lower a sharp sandy soil. Both divisions are
of good quality, and capable of producing excellent
crops. Near the village is the magnificent mansion
of Carstairs, the seat of Robert Monteith, Esq., the
principal heritor. There was a Roman camp on a
rising ground near the Clyde, at Corbiehall, now
completely effaced by the plough, — though a few
years ago, the prajtorium and walls of circumvalla-
tion were still very visible. Several Roman antiqui-
ties, as coins, instruments of war, and culinary uten-
sils, have been dug up here. The road from Lanark
to Edinburgh and the Glasgow fork of the Cale-
donian railway traverse the parish, and the latter
has a station east of Ravenstruther, where also is
the junction with the Edinburgh fork. See Cale-
donian Rai i.wat. The village of Carstairs stands
on the Lanark and Edinburgh road, 2 J miles west of
Camwath. It has of late years been greatly im-
proved in appearance. The parish church — which
was built in 1794, has a spire and clock, and con-
tains 430 sittings — stands on a rising ground in its
centre. Population of the parish in 1831, 981 ; in
1861, 1,345. Houses, 240. Assessed property in
1343, £6,464 lis. 5d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Lanark, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. The patron is J.
Struthers, Esq. Stipend £233 18s. 7d., with glebe
of the value of £35. Unappropriated teinds, £305
7s. 4d. Schoolmaster's salary, £32, with above £30
fees. There are two private schools.
CART (The), a river of Renfrewshire, formed by
the union of the Black Cart and the White Cart.
That union takes place at Inchinnan bridge, which
consists properly of two bridges, across the two
rivers immediately above their junction. See Inch-
rNNAS. The Cart has a course of less than a mile
northward, along the boundary between the parishes
of Renfrew and Inchinnan, to a confluence with the
Clyde about a mile below Renfrew ferry. Its banks
are low and wooded ; and in its mouth lies a wooded
islet which is said to have been formed by a sunken
raft of timber.
CART (The Black), a river of Renfrewshire. It
issues from Castle-Semple loch, and may therefore
be regarded as a continuation of the Renfrewshire
Calder. It runs about 9 miles north-eastward, past
Johnston and Linwood, dividing the county into near-
ly equal parts, receiving the Gryfe on its left bank
at Walkinshaw, and unites with the White Cart at
Inchinnan Bridge. Its whole course lies along a
valley very slightly elevated above sea-level ; and
its current in consequence, is sluggish and dark.
CART (The White), a river of Renfrewshire. It
rises in the moors of Eaglesham, near the point
where the counties of Renfrew, Ayr, and Lanark
meet, — flows 9 miles northward, partly in the par-
ish of Eaglesham, partly on the boundary between
Renfrewshire and Lanarkshire, and partly in the
parish of Catheart, — then runs 7 miles westward by
Pollockshaws and Crookston castle to Paisley, re-
ceiving the Levem on its left bank, near Crookston
castle, — and then runs 2J miles northward to the
junction with the Black Cart at Inchinnan Bridge.
In its course it gives motion to a vast quantity of ma-
chinery, particularly at Pollockshaws and Paisley;
and it is navigable to the latter place for vessels of
80 tons burden, — the navigable communication with
CASTER FELL.
256
CASSILIS CASTLE.
the Clyde being completed by a canal, by which the
shallows at Inchinnan Bridge are avoided. On the
29th of May, 1840, a branch canal from the Forth
and Clyde canal, to the Clyde opposite the mouth of
the Cart, was opened under the name of the Cart
and Forth Junction canal. It is about three- fourths
of a mile in length. A great deal of the scenery
along the course of the White Cart, particularly
within the parish of Cathcart, and thence to the
neighbourhood of Paisley, is very beautiful. See
Cathcakt.
CARTER FELL, one of the Cheviot mountains,
on the southern boundary of the parishes of Jed-
burgh and Southdean, Roxburghshire, forming there
the boundary between Scotland and England. Its
altitude above sea-level is 2,020 feet. Some of the
headstreams of the Jed rise on its north side, and
some of the headstreams of the Northumbrian Tyne
on its south side. The road from Jedburgh to New-
castle, which is the principal pass through the
Cheviots, goes over the east shoulder of Carter Fell,
there called Carter Bar.
CARTERHAUGH, a fine green holm lying in
the angle formed by the junction of the Ettrick and
Yarrow, the scene of the fairy ballad of ' Tamlane.'
CARTHUR. See Hutton and Coreie.
CARTLAND, a village in the north-west of the
parish of Lanark, Lanarkshire. Population in 1851,
112.
CARTLAND CRAGS, a vast chasm in the sand-
stone rocks forming the bed of the Mouse, imme-
diately above Lanark ; formed by the lower part or
projecting shoulder of a great mountain-mass, de-
tached from the body or upper part, and extending
more than three quarters of a mile in a curved line
from south-west to north-east, with a depth of sev-
eral hundred feet, —
" Wall above wall, half-vailed, half-seen.
The pendent folds of wood between ;
With jagged breach, and rift, and scaur,
Like the scratched wreck of ancient war."
To ascertain how this wonderful fissure has been
produced is a curious geological problem ; the more
interesting, as the phenomena of Cartland crags are
such as to furnish a remarkable test for trying the
merits of the two theories which long divided the
geological world. According to the principles of
the igneous theory, a vein of trap, which traverses
the strata in a direction almost perpendicular to the
course of the chasm near its centre, renders it an ex-
ample on a great scale of disruption and dislocation
by explosion from below. On the other hand, Cart-
land crags evidently possess all the data requisite
to form a case of what is called in the aqueous the-
ory, subsidence ; an explanation which Dr. Mac-
knight inclined to prefer, because the trap, from the
smallness of its mass, seems totally inadequate, as
a mechanical power, to the effect produced. The
direction of the rent, instead of following the course
of the vein — which it must have done had it owed
its existence to this cause — is very nearly at right
angles to that course ; and it appears that the trap
itself had been originally a part of the formation or
mountain-mass, previous to the time when the rent
took place. The Cartland sandstone belongs to the
oldest of the floetz rocks. In the under part of this
formation, it alternates with greywacke, and con-
tains lime in calcspar veins. Some varieties are
good specimens of what Mr. Jameson considers as
chemical depositions. The trap consists of compact
greenstone; basalt including olivine and augite; and
a substance intermediate between basalt and clink-
stone. At the lower part of the ravine, the road
from Glasgow to Lanark is carried across on a
bridge of three arches. A few yards above this
bridge is Wallace's cave, whose name is attached
by tradition to various localities here ; and a little
below, there is an old bridge of one arch, supposed
to be of Roman construction.
CARTLEY-HOLE. See Abbotsfokd.
CARTSDYKE, or Ckawfuedsdike, the eastern
suburb of Greenock, in Renfrewshire,— originally
quite distinct from that place, a rival of it, and
erected into a free burgh of barony in 1 633, by char-
ter from Charles I., but now strictly one town with
Greenock, and included within its parliamentary
boundaries. See Greenock.
CARTY, a harbour on the right bank of the river
Cree, and eastern verge of Wigtonshire, about 1 J
mile below Newton - Stewart. It has commonly
about 12 feet water in spring tides, and is regularly
frequented by vessels of from 35 to 45 tons burden.
CARVY (The), a small tributary of the Don, in
the lower district of the parish of Strathdon, Aber-
deenshire.
CARWINNING. See Dalry, Ayrshire.
CARY. See Abernetht.
CASH. See Strathmiglo.
CASSILIS CASTLE, a noble mansion, romantic-
ally situated on the left bank of the Doon, and on
the north-west verge of the parish of Kirkmichael,
about 1£ mile south-west of the village of Dal
rymple, Ayrshire. The body of it seems to belong
to the middle of the 15th century, and a fine addi-
tion was made to it in 1830. It is one of the seats of
the Marquis of Ailsa, who also is Earl of Cassilis.
David, 3d Lord Kennedy, was created Earl of Cas-
silis in 1510. About a quarter of a mile to the
south of the castle are three or four small green
lulls, known as Cassilis Downans, and long regarded
as the frequent scene of fairy revelry. — There is a
well-known ballad of which the first stanzas run
thus:
" The gypsies they came to my Lord Casillis' yett,
And O! but they sang bonnie;
They sang sae sweet, and sae complete,
That doun cam our fair lady.
She cam tripping doun the stairs,
Wi' a' her maids before her;
As soon as they saw her weel-far'd face,
They coost their glamourie owre her."
Of the transactions sung in this ballad the following
account is usually given. John, 6th Earl of Cas-
silis, commonly termed " the grave and solemn
Earl," married as his first wife, Lady Jean Hamil-
ton, daughter of Thomas, 1st Earl of Haddington.
It is said, that this match took place contrary to the
inclinations of the young lady, whose affections had
been previously engaged by a certain Sir John Faa
of Dunbar — in the neighbourhood of which was her
paternal seat of Tynninghame — who was neither
grave nor solemn, and moreover, much handsomer
than his successful rival. While Lord Cassilis was
absent on some mission from the Scottish parliament
to that of England, Sir John, with his followers,
repaired to Cassilis, where the young lady then re-
sided, and persuaded her to elope with him to Eng-
land. As ill luck would have it, the Earl returned
home before the lovers could cross the Border, —
pursued and overtook them, — and in the conflict
all the masquerade gypsies were slain save one, and
the weeping Countess brought back to her hus-
band's mansion, where she remained till a cell was
prepared for her in the family castle of Maybole,
wherein she languished for the short remainder of
her life in humble sorrow and devotion. This is one
edition of the story, still veiy current in the county
where the elopement took place ; but it is not sup-
ported by the tenor of the ballad, which was com-
posed by the only surviving ravisher, and is contra-
CASSLEY.
257
CASTLE-DOUGLAS.
dieted by a number of those who still recite the ver-
ses. Indeed, a very numerous jury of matrons,
" spinsters and knitters in the sun," pronounce the
fair Countess guilty of having eloped with a genuine
gypsy, though compelled in some degree to that
low-lived indiscretion by certain wicked charms
and philtres, of which Faa and his party are said to
have possessed the secret. It is not now possible to
fix the precise date of Lady Cassilis's elopement with
' the Gypsie laddie ;' or the identity of the frail one
herself. Lady Jean Hamilton, of the Haddington
family, was born in the year 1607, and died in 1642.
Moreover there is a lotter extant from her husband
to the Kev. Robert Douglas, written shortly after
her death, in which he expresses a respect and ten-
derness for his wife's memory quite inconceivable
had she been guilty of such a misdemeanour as that
supposed. It is alleged that she lived long enough
in her confinement at Maybole to work a piece of
tapestry, still preserved at Colzean House, in which
she represented her unhappy flight, but with cir-
cumstances unsuitable to the details of the ballad,
and as if the deceits of ' glamourie' had still bewil-
dered her memory ; for she is mounted behind her
lover, gorgeously attired, ou a superb white courser,
and surrounded by a group of persons who bear no
resemblance to a herd of gypsies.
CASSLEY (The), a small river of Sutherland-
shire. It rises among the mountains in the south
of the parish of Edderachyllis, and flows about 15
miles south-eastward, past the eastern skirt of Ben-
more-Assvnt, and along the upper district of the
parish of Creich, to a confluence with the Oikell, in
the vicinity of Rosehall. It is an excellent angling
stream.
CASTLE, a village in the parish of New Cum-
nock, Ayrshire.
CASTLE-BAY. See Baeea and Poetpatrick.
CASTLE-CAMPBELL, a noble relic of feudal
ages, in the parish of Dollar, and in the neighbour-
hood of the village of Dollar, Clackmannanshire.
It surmounts a round insidated mound, which seems
to have been partly formed by the hand of Nature,
and partly finished by art. On each side is a deep
ravine or glen, clothed in thick wood, and down
which run streams that unite immediately below,
and form a considerable brook. The mound is
nearly perpendicular on the side next Dollar, and
was formerly disjoined from the surrounding hills
by a ditch shelving down to the bottom of the glen
on each side, which rendered the castle inaccessible
except by means of a draw-bridge ; so that it was a
place of veiy great strength. Though the castle
stands upon an eminence, it is surrounded on all
sides by higher hills, many of which are wooded to
their summits, which gives to the whole scenery a
very picturesque but, in certain states of the wea-
ther and sky, a somewhat gloomy effect. The
buildings still existing form a quadrangle. It is
not known when or by whom this venerable pile
was erected. It was formerly called the Gloume,
or Castle-Gloom ; and the Celtic names of the two
brooks which encircle it are supposed by some to
signify the burns of Care and of Sorrow. About
the year 1493 — when it probably first came into the
possession of the noble family of Argyle, whose pro-
perty, however, it no longer is — it was called Castle
Campbell, by which name it has ever since been
known. This castle, with the whole territory be-
longing to the family of Argyle, suffered by the
calamities of civil war in 1645; for the Marquis of
Montrose, the enemy and rival of the house of Ar-
gyle— or rather his fierce allies the Macleans and
Ogilvies — carried fire and sword through the whole
estate. During this commotion the castle was de-
I.
stroyed ; and its magnificent ruins only now re-
main,— a sad monument of the miseries of civil war.
CASTLE - CAEY, an ancient fortress on the
southern verge of Stirlingshire, on the line of An-
toninus' wall, and in the vicinity of the Stirling
and Glasgow highway, the Edinburgh and Glasgow
railway, and the Forth and Clyde canal, 11 mile
north-east of Cumbernauld, and 7 miles west-south
west of Falkirk. Castlo-Cary, according to General
Roy, was one of the prasidia or principal stations
on the wall of Antoninus, as is evident from its di-
mensions, and the number of antiquities discovered
there. A Roman way led out from it towards the
south ; and it seems probable that this place was
the Coria Damniorum of Ptolemy, and the same
which Nennius calls Caer Ceri. General Roy has
preserved a plan of the ancient fort, and of the anti
quities discovered here. The fort itself is now
nearly effaced by agricultural operations ; and only
the tower or keep remains in any state of repair.
A station on the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway,
64. miles from Falkirk and 15J from Glasgow, takes
name from Castle-Cary. A stage on the Forth and
Clyde canal in communication with the Stirling
stage-coaches, also took name from it. The junc-
tions of the Caledonian railway with the Scottish
Central, and of the Scottish Central with the Edin-
burgh and Glasgow, are within 2 miles of this place.
CASTLE-CLAN YARD. See Ktekjiailies.
C ASTLE-CLUGGY, an ancient fortalice on a pen-
insula in the north of the Loch of Monivaird, in
the parish of Monivaird and Strowan, Perthshire.
Only a low square tower, with walls 5 or 6 feet
thick, and as hard as iron, now remains ; but the
original structure was more extensive and very
strong, and was spoken of four centuries ago as then
an ane'ent building. Tradition says that it belonged
to the Red Comyn, the competitor of Robert Bruce.
CASTLE-COLE. See Cole's Castle.
CASTLE-CRAIG. See Kiekurd.
CASTLE- CRAIG, or Ceaighouse, an old ruin on
the brow of a precipice, overhanging the Cromarty
frith, in the west end of the parish of Kirkmichael,
Ross-shire. Only one wing of the original build-
ing now stands ; but this i6 very old, about 50 feet
high, and has a stone roof and arched apartments.
Tradition says that the castle was erected by the
Urquharts, barons of Cromarty ; and history records
that it was the principal residence of the Bishops of
ROSS;
CASTLE-CEAIGNISH. See Craigxish.
CASTLE-DONNAN, a picturesque ruin, amid
magnificent scenery, near the village of Domie, in
the parish of Kintail, Ross-shire. It was given by
Alexander III., after the battle of Largs, to Colin
Fitzgerald, as a reward for military services.
CASTLE-DOUGLAS, a post and market town on
the northern border of the parish of Kelton, Kirk-
cudbrightshire. It stands on the road from Dum-
fries to Kirkcudbright and Portpatrick, 1 J mile east
of Thrieve Castle, 10 miles north-west by north of
Kirkcudbright, 18 south-west of Dumfries, and 89
south-south-west of Edinburgh. Its site is a gentle
acclivity, ascending from the bank of Carlinwark
Loch. The town is modem, neat, and regular.
The streets are wide and airy, and cross one another
at right angles ; and the spaces within the rectan-
gles are laid out in gardens, one of which is attached
to every feu. The shops are numerous, showy, and
well furnished. The town-house is a modern edi-
fice with a tower and clock. The whole place in
fact has a tasteful, handsome, prosperous appear-
ance, and is second to no town in the south of Scot-
land, excepting Dumfries.
Castle-Douglas is the great mart for the produce
B
CASTLE-DOUGLAS.
258
CASTLE-SEMPLE LOCH.
of the larger part of Kirkcudbrightshire. A weekly
market is held on Monday, at which a surprising
amount and variety of business is done. The fairs
also which used to be held on Kelton hill, have,
with one exception, been transferred to its bounds,
and have added a good deal to its consequence.
These fairs are held for horses on the 11th of Feb-
ruary if a Monday, or if not on the Monday after ;
for horses and hiring, on the 23d March, or the
Monday after ; for hoggets, on the first Monday of
April ; for lambs, on the Monday in August before
Miniehive ; for horses and hiring, on the 23d of Sep-
tember, or the Monday after; and for horses, on the
Monday after the 13th of October, old style. A cotton
manufactory was at one time set agoing in the
town, but did not succeed. Coaches run through
daily to Kirkcudbright and to Stranraer, in commu-
nication with the trains of the Glasgow and South-
western railway at Dumfries. A line of railway
which was projected some years ago for connecting
Ayr with Galloway and the Solway, was proposed
to touch Castle-Douglas, and to pass on thence to
Kirkcudbright The town has branch offices of the
Bank of Scotland, the National Bank, the Union
Bank, and the British Linen Company's Bank. It
has also a savings' bank, a subscription library,
a circulating library, a good burgh school, and
several other schools. A mechanics' institute
was recently established. A sum now worth £41
a-year was left by Sir William Douglas, in 1831,
to the magistrates and council to be divided among
six schools, and the poor of the parish, according to
a scale of proportion pointed out in the deed. An
United Presbyterian church stands in the vicinity
of Castle-Douglas, but within the parish of Cross-
michael ; and a Beformed Presbyterian church and
a Free church — the latter with an yearly income
of £242 6s. 5Jd. in 1853— stand within the town.
The post-office of Castle-Douglas is the key-office to
a larger number of sub-offices than any other in
Scotland, except that of Glasgow.
Castle-Douglas was called originally Causeway-
end, and afterwards Carlinwark ; and did not get
its present name till 1792. This name alludes to
the Castle of Thrieve, the old feudal stronghold of
the Douglases. See Thrieve. The place also, at
the instance of Sir William Douglas, and by royal
charter, was erected into a burgh of barony at the
time when it began to be called Castle-Douglas, yet
was then a very trivial seat of either trade or popu-
lation ; for — says the New Statistical Account in
1844 — " men are yet living who remember the time
when Causewayend was only a small cluster of cot-
tages, the population of which did not amount to
more than twenty." The town owes its prosperity
to the fostering care of Sir William Douglas, and to
the advantageousness of its position as a central
market for the county. A new and extended char-
ter was obtained in 1829. The magistracy and
council consist of a provost, 2 bailies, 17 couneil-
cillors, who are elected triennially on the 1st Wed-
nesday of September. All persons resident within
the boundaries of the burgh, and having right by
feu to a piece of ground within the same, are en-
titled to elect or be elected. The property of the
burgh, in 1833, was £573 15s. lid.; the debts, £167
10s. 7d. : the average annual revenue, ,£20; the
expenditure, £13 5s. Justice of peace small debt
courts are held on the first Monday of every month ;
and steward (sheriff) small debt courts on the second
Wednesday of January and April, and the first
Wednesday of July and October. Population in
1841, 1,847 ; in 1861, 2,261. Houses, 369.
CASTLE- DRUMMIN. See Ave* (The).
CASTLE-DUART. See Duart Castle.
CASTLE-FEATHEB. See Whithorn,.
CASTLE-FORBES. See Keig.
CASTLE- GIRNIGOE. See Wick.
CASTLE-GLOOM. See Castle-Campbet t
CASTLE-GRANT. See Cromdale.
CASTLE-HAVEN. See Tareat.
CASTLE-HILL, any eminence either now or
formerly crowned by a castle. At least forty-six
localities in Scotland, perhaps a good many more,
bear this name.
CASTLE-HUNTLY. See Longforgan.
CASTLE- ISLAND, a small island near the south-
east side of the island of Eigg, Inverness-shire. It
is inhabited only during part of the summer months
by persons tending cattle.
CASTLE-ISLAND, an island in Loch-Leven,
Kinross-shire, famous in history for its castle. See
Leveh (Loch).
CASTLE-KENNEDY. See Inch.
CASTLE-KILCHURN. See Kilchurn Castle.
CASTLE-LACHLAN. See Strachur.
CASTLE-LAW, one of the most northerly range
of the Lammermuir hills, in the parish of Gifford
or Yester, in Haddingtonshire ; rising to the height
of 940 feet above sea-level, On the summit of this
hill there is a circular camp, the circuit of which
contains nearly 4 Scots acres. It measures, within
the ramparts, 370 feet from east to west, and 337
feet from south to north. About three quarters of
a mile to the east of this hill, is another hill, 860
feet in height, on the top of which also is an ancient
camp called the Castles, of somewhat smaller di-
mensions; and about two furlongs south of the
Castle Law, on a smaller hill called the Witches'
Knowe, is a third camp. See also Abernethy.
CASTLE-LEOD. See Foddertt.
CASTLE-LOCH. See Lochmabeu.
CASTLE-LYON. See Longforgau.
CASTLE-MENZIES. See Weem.
CASTLE-MILK. See Carmunnock and Musgo
(St.).
CASTLE-O'ER. See Eskdalemuir and Wes-
TERKTRK.
CASTLE-POINT, a low wooded headland, pro-
jecting eastward from the promontorial parish of
Roseneath, in Dumbartonshire. It is situated nearly
midway between Helensburgh and the Battery-
Point of Greenock, at the forking of the frith of
Clyde into the main-channel and the Gare-Loch.
It takes its name from Roseneath-Castle. See
Roseneath.
CASTLEPHAIRN. See Glescairn.
CASTLE-RANKINE BURN, a rivulet of Stirling-
shire, rising near the south base of Darrach Hill,
on the mutual border of the parishes of Kilsyth and
Denny, running about 4J miles north-eastward
through the latter parish, and falling into the Car-
ron near Denny Bridge. It contributes to the pro-
cesses of an extensive dye-work and a chemical
work.
CASTLE-SEMPLE LOCH, a lake, sometimes
called Loch-Winnoch, in the parish of Lochwinnoch,
Renfrewshire. The Calder is its chief feeder ; and
the Dubbs connects it with Kilbirnie loch. Castle-
Semple loch was originally between 4 and 5 miles
in length, and rather more than 1 in breadth ; but
it has been considerably lessened by draining. It
would appear, from the description of Hamilton of
Wishaw, that Lord Semple, then proprietor of this
lake and the adjoining lands, commenced to drain
it in 1680 or 1700. The estate was sold by Hew,
Lord Semple, in 1727, to Colonel M'Dowall, a
younger son of M'Dowall -of Garthland, who con-
tinued the plan of draining the lake, and, in 1735,
had made great progress in doing so. Subsequent
CASTLE-SEMPLE LOCH.
259
CASTLETON.
proprietors have directed their attention to the same
object ; and the effect has been the recovery of a
great extent of fine rich meadow land. In 1773,
and in 1774, a canal was constructed of nearly 2
miles in length, at an expense of £2,000, by which
above 400 acres of a very deep rich soil was recov-
ered. The loch still covers about 200 acres; but
considerably extends itself when flooded, and dur-
ing winter. Tbe family of Semple was very early
in possession of the lands around this loch. Robert
Synipil was vassal in Elziotstoun on the south side
of the lake, undor the high-steward of Scotland,
about 1220 ; and previous to 1309, Robert Synipil
of Elziotstoun was seneschal of Strathgryfe. In
1474, Sir William Synipil, Lord of Elziotstoun, ob-
tained a charter of the baronies of Elziotstoun and
Castletoun — now Castle-Semple — from James III.
Sir John Synipil was raised to the dignity of the
peerage, with the title of Lord Sympil, by James
IV., in 1488. Elliotston and Castle-Semple contin-
ued in possession of this ancient family till sold, as
above-mentioned, in 1727, after having been their
property for about 500 years. In 1813, William
M'Dowall of Garthland and Castle-Semple, sold his
estate of Castle-Semple to John Harvey, Esquire,
of Jamaica. Eastward of the lake, and on the
south side, are the remains of the old tower of El-
liotston, the residence of the Semple family previous
to 1550. Its length is 42 feet, and its breadth 33
feet over the walls. Between 1547 and 1572, Ro-
bert, commonly called the great Lord Semple, built
a tower, called the Peel — the ruins of which still
exist — on a small island on the lake, now forming
part of the mainland. This tower was in the form
of an irregular pentagon, having a sharp end" to-
wards the head of the loch. " It was built," says
Dr. Caldwell, " over a strong arch, with bulwarks,
gun-ports, &c, and is environed with an immense
cairn of stones round all its foundations, to a consid-
erable height above high water." * The castle at
Castleton, or Castle-Semple, near the eastern end of
the lake, was erected or more probably rebuilt by
the first Lord Semple, who died in 1513. He
changed its name from Castleton to Castle-Semple.
In Bleau's Atlas, published in 1654, this castle is
represented by a mark denoting the largest size of
castles. Crawford — who wrote in 1710 — says,
" Upon the brink of the loch stands the castle of
Sempill, the principal messuage of a fair lordship of
the same denomination, which consists of a large
court, part of which seems to be a very ancient
building, adorned with pleasant orchards and gar-
dens." In 1735 this ancient house was demolished
by Colonel M'Dowall, who erected an elegant mo-
dern house on its site. Some workmen repairing
drains in 1830 found part of the foundations of the
castle still existing below ground. In 1504, John
Lord Semple founded a collegiate church near the
lake, having a provost, six chaplains or prebendar-
ies, two boys, and a sacristan. A stone in the outer
wall bears the letters R. L. S., and the amis of
Sempill and Montgomery. It was found, about 25
years ago, near the site of the castle of Semple, and
was placed in its present situation by the late Mr.
Harvey. The church is 71 feet 6 inches in length;
24 feet 3 inches in breadth; and 15 feet 6 inches in
height. A portion at the east end, separated from
the rest, was used as a place of burial by the Sem-
ple family, as it now is by Colonel Harvey the pre-
sent proprietor. Dr. Caldwell describes its walls as
* A very fine copper cannon, having the arms of Scotland,
and J. R. S. engraved on it, was found in the loch near the Peel.
This relique is preserved at Castle-Semple. Tradition reports
that other sis. guns were lost at the place where this one was
found.
being covered with ivy, and surrounded by a fine
tall hornbeam hedge. The roof was taken off about
forty years ago, and the ivy has penetrated into tho
interior. In ancient times there appears to have
been a village at this place, and a chapel in its
neighbourhood dedicated to St. Bride. A small
burn, which here falls into the lake, is still named
St. Bride's burn; and the residence of Colonel Har-
vey's factor, St. Bride's mill. On the hill of Ken-
mure, which is of secondary trap rock, there is an
imitation of a Chinese temple, from which a very
fine view of tho lake and surrounding scenery can
be obtained. It is supposed to have been erected
about the middle of last century by one of the fam-
ily of M'Dowall who succeeded the Semples. — The
Glasgow and Ayr railway passes through the estate
of Castle-Semple, and in the immediate neighbour-
hood of the loch.
CASTLE-SINCLAIR. See Wick.
CASTLE-SPIRITUAL. See Ness (Loch).
CASTLE-SPYNIE. See Spynie.
CASTLE-STEWART. See Pesninuham.
CASTLE-STUART. See Petty.
CASTLE-SWIN, a ruined, ancient, strong fortal-
ice, in the parish of North Knapdale, Argyleshire.
It stands on a rock on the east shore of Loch Swin,
about 2 miles from its month, and commands an
extensive view of the surrounding country. It is
about 35 feet high and 105 feet long ; and its walls
are about 7 feet thick. It is said by tradition to
have been built near the beginning of the eleventh
century by Sweno, Prince of Denmark ; but it com-
prises parts which must have been built much
later. It was long regarded as the military key
of the districts of Knapdale and Glassary.
CASTLE-TIORAM. See AErrajaiuRCHAif.
CASTLETON, a parish, containing the post-office
village of New Castleton, in the southern extremity
of Roxburghshire. It has a somewhat triangular
outline ; and is bounded on one side by England,
on the west by Dumfries- shire, and on the north by
the parishes of Teviothead, Hobkirk, and Southdean.
Its area is greater than that of any other parish in
the south of Scotland. Its greatest length, from
Fauna hill, or from Needs Law, on the north-east,
to its southern extremity at the confluence of Mare
burn with the Liddel, is about 20 miles; and its
greatest breadth, from Peel fell on the east to Tud-
hope hill on the west, is 1 4 miles. In history and
poetry, and very frequently still in conversation, its
name is Liddesdale, from the river Liddel, which
runs through it from east to south.f The upper or
northern part is mountainous and bleak; but is
generally dry, and affords good sheep-pasturage.
Some of the mountains both here and along the
western and eastern boundaries, are very high and
precipitous. Millenwood Fell, and Windhead, are
each nearly 2,000 feet in height; and Tudhope hill
is 1,830, and, being seen from a great distance at
sea, serves as a landmark for ships. The lower
extremity of the parish, and all parts of it distant
from the streams, are wild and bleak. Along the
banks of the Hermitage and the Liddel, however,
it is luxuriant, full of rural beauty, and occasionally
picturesque. The valley of the Hermitage, stretch-
ing from the rugged mountains on the north-west,
10 miles eastward till the junction of the stream
with the Liddel, is tufted with natural wood, and
t In the old histories and geographical descriptions of Scotland,
it is called ' The County of Lidisdale ;' and. in old writs, it is
styled 'The Lordship' of that name. In December 1540, the
lands and lordship of the forest of Jedburgh, with the lands and
lordship of Lidisdale, were annexed to the Crown, by Act ol
Parliament. And, on the 2d of January, 164S. the lands and
dominion of Lidisdale appear to have been granted to Francis,
Earl of Buccleuch.
CASTLETON.
260
CASTLETON.
abounds in the rich scenes of pastoral life. Near
the head of the parish on the east, the rivers Tyne
and Liddel take their rise in the midst of a vast
bog, which, on account of its stagnant appearance,
is called Dead Water. For 10 miles, the banks of
the Liddel are entirely naked ; but on its junction
with the Hermitage, it is fringed with plantation ;
and, throughout the rest of its course, it flows
through a valley opulent in the beauties of land-
scape. Its tributaries, besides the Hermitage, are
the Tweeden, the Tinnis, the Blackburn, and the
Kershope, the last of which forms the boundary
with England. All these streams abound in trout ;
on some of them are fine cascades ; and all, through
the Liddel, send their waters — in a direction differ-
ent from all the other streams of Roxburghshire —
toward the Solway frith. Limestone is abundant
in this district ; coal is obtained to some extent on
the estate of Liddel bank ; and excellent freestone
is everywhere found, except at the head of the Her-
mitage. Mineral springs, possessing medicinal
properties, and in considerable repute for their
virtues, exist at Thorlieshope, in the morass called
the Dead Water, — at Lawston, — at Flat, — and on
the Tweeden. The last of these is petrifactive, and
exhibits, in an interesting manner, the various
stages of the petrifying process, — fog or moss, at
the edge of the spring, about 8 inches high, soft
and flourishing at the top, half-petrified at the mid-
dle, and converted into solid stone at the root. The
climate, owing to the attraction of the mountains
and the coldness of the soil, is very moist; yet,
compared with that of many other districts, it is
exceedingly salubrious. Toward the close of last
century, one native attained, in the full possession of
all her faculties, the advanced age of 113. The soil
of the holm land is occasionally of a light but often
a very deep and fine loam, and, when judiciously
cultivated, bears luxuriant crops. Land under till-
age, however, is found chiefly on the banks of the
rivers ; many hundred acres, which were formerly
subject to the plough, having been thrown into
pasture in consequence of the high price of sheep
and wool. Even mossy ground, though apparently
useless, affords considerable nourishment for both
black cattle and sheep. Different species of grass
rise in constant succession in their respective sea-
sons ; and the particular plant called ' the moss,'
which springs before any other at the close of win-
ter, is carefully sought after by the flocks. — This
secluded district was, at a former period, inhabited
by tribes of freebooters, the chief of whom were the
Elliotts and the Armstrongs, who acknowledged
the civil authority of neither Scotland nor England,
and maintained a precarious but very abundant
subsistence by predatory excursions upon all the
districts around. Their castles, or peel-houses,
where they stored their booty and rallied at a mo-
ment of danger, still, in some quarters, lift their
rained heights before the eyes of a traveller as me-
morials of a lawless age.*
Castleton derives its name from a village — no
longer in existence, though some of its hearth-
, stones were at a recent date dug up — which was
built under the shelter of one of these strongholds.
* There is a minute inserted in the session-records of date 17th
January 1649, which mentions that "the English army, com-
manded by Colonels Bright and Pride, and under the conduct of
General Cromwell, on their return to England, did lie at the
kirk of Castleton several nights, in which time they brake down
and burnt the communion tables, and the seataof the kirk, and
at their removing carried away the minister's books to the value
of 1,000 marks and above, and also the books-of-session — with
which they lighted their tobacco-pipes— the baptism, marriage,
and examination rolls, from October 1612 to September 1648, all
which were lest and destroyed."
This castle, which stood on the summit of a preci-
pice 100 feet in height, on the east bank of the Lid-
del, and the rampart and fosse of which still remain
entire, is said to have been founded by Ranulph de
Soulis in the reign of David I. In the village of
Castleton stood a church which was dedicated to St.
Martin, and was a vicarage of the priory of Jed-
burgh. Besides this, there were in the district two
other churches, three chapels, and a monastery ; the
men of lawlessness and general plunder, attempting,
in the superstitious spirit of their times, to atone
for the injuries which they pertinaciously inflicted
on their fellow-men, by liberally building, endowing,
or supporting sacred edifices. Ruins of the religious
structures may still be seen in sequestered spots
where now the human foot rarely treads, and where
undisturbed repose invites the solitary sheep to lux-
uriate on the wild pasturage. One of the churches
was called the Wheel church ; because it stood in
the vicinity of a Roman causeway, which was the
only path in that part of Scotland admitting the
passage of wheeled carriages. But the most cele-
brated antiquity of the parish is Hermitage castle,
which consists of a tall, massive, gloomy-looking,
double-tower, protected by a ditch and strong ram-
part, and rising aloft from the centre of an extensive
waste, overlooking the limpid, murmuring waters
of the Hermitage river, amid a scene of barrenness
and desolation. This fortress was one of the largest
and strongest on the border; and, remaining entire
in its walls, was lately put into a. state of nearly
complete repair. Within a few yards of it, are the
ruins of the baronial chapel, surrounded by a bury-
ing-ground still partially in use. The castle was
built in the 13th century, by Comyn, Earl of Men-
teith. It afterwards became the property of the
once potent family of Soulis ; it next, by forfeiture,
went into the possession of the Douglases ; it was
then made over by Archibald, the sixth Earl of An-
gus, and the representative of the Douglases, to
Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell, in exchange for the
castle and lordship of Bothwell in Clydesdale ; and,
the possessions and title of the Hepburns having be-
come the property of Francis Stewart, it passed, on
the forfeiture of the latter, into the hands of the
Buccleuch family, who still possess it. When Her-
mitage castle was in the possession of the Douglas-
es, the brave Sir Alexander Ramsay of Dalhousie
was starved to death within its walls ; and, when
in the possession of the storied Earl of Bothwell —
who had been severely wounded in an attempt to
seize Elliot of the Parke, a desperate freebooter — it
was visited by Queen Mary. In order to attain her
purpose, she penetrated the mountainous and al-
most trackless region whieh lies between Teviot-
dale and Liddesdale, attended by only a few fol-
lowers ; returning on the same day to Jedburgh
whence she started, and performing a journey of up-
wards of 48 miles through almost all conceivable
varieties of difficulty and obstruction. Other anti-
quities of the parish consist chiefly of eaims, Picts
works, and camps. The most remarkable is a camp,
entirely circular, about 100 feet diameter, and con-
sisting of a series of concentric walls, all penetrated
by a door or opening toward the east. This camp
occupies the whole summit of Carby hill, which
stands detached from other elevations, and com-
mands an extensive view of part of Cumberland.
At Milnholm there is an ancient cross of one stone,
8 feet 4 inches high. A sword 4 feet long is cut
out on the south side of the cross, and immediately
above several letters. The tradition concerning it
is this : — One of the governors of Hermitage castle
— some say Lord Soulis, others Lord Douglas — hav-
ing entertained a passion for a young woman then
CASTLETON.
261
CATACOL
residing in the lower part of the parish, went to her
house, and was met by her lather, who, wishing to
conceal his daughter, was killed by the governor.
The murderer was pursued, and took refuge with
Armstrong of Mangerton, who bad influence enough
to prevail upon the people to desist from the pur-
suit, and by this means saved his life. Seemingly
with a view to make a return for this favour, but
secretly jealous of the power and influence of Arm-
strong, the ungrateful wretch invited him to Her-
mitage castle, where be was basely murdered. The
governor himself, in his turn, was killed by Jock
of the Side, of famous memory, brother to Arm-
strong. The cross was erected in memory of this
transaction, near to Ettlcton churchyard, where he
■was buried, and almost opposite to Mangerton.
Liddesdale has been much improved by its intersec-
tion with new roads. Population in 1831, 2,227;
in 1861, 3,C8S. Houses, 5b'8. Assessed property
in 1843, £12,125 12s. Id.
This parish is in the presbytery of Langholm and
svnod of Dumfries. Patron, the Duke of Bucclench.
Stipend, £249 19s. lid.; glebe, £20. Unappropri-
ated teinds. £150 8s. lid. — There are four parochial
schools. The salary of the four scnoolmasters
amounts to £51 6s. 6jd., of which the principal one
has £30, and the remaining sum is equally divided
among the other three. The fees of the four schools
amount to £72 annually. The parish chnrch stands
at the confluence of the Liddel and the Hermitage,
I J mile north-north-east of New Castleton. It was
built in 1S08, and contains about 750 sittings.
There are in New Castleton an United Presbyterian
church, with an attendance of 350 ; an Independent
chapel, with an attendance of about 75 ; and a Free
church preaching station, with an attendance of
about 70. The yearly receipts of the last of these
in 1853 amounted to £116 Is. 8£d. There are three
private schools, two subscription libraries, and a
friendly society. This parish gave birth to the
celebrated John Armstrong, M.D., whose father
and brother were ministers of it ; and who has sung
the beauties of his native vale, in his highly finished
Poem on Health, Book III.:
" Such the stream,
On whose Arcadian hanks I first drew air.
Liddel, till now — except in Doric lays,
Tiin'd to her murmurs by her love-sick swains —
Unknown in song ; though not a purer stream
Through meads more flow'ry, — more romantic groves,
Rolls toward the western main. Hail, sacred flood 1
May still thy hospitable swains be blest
In rural innocence; thy mountains still
Teem with the fleecy race; thy tuneful woods
For ever flourish, and thy vales look gay,
With painted meadows, and the golden grain!"
CASTLETON (New), a village with a post-office
in the parish of Castleton, Roxburghshire. It stands
on a haugh on the right bank of the Liddel, and on
the east road from Jedburgh to Longtown, 10 miles
north-east of Canonbie, 20 south by west of Haw-
ick, and 26 south-west by south of Jedburgh. It
owes its origin to Henry, Duke of Buccleuch, and
was commenced in 1793. It has entirely super-
seded the ancient Castleton, situated a little further
up the river. It consists of two principal streets,
running parallel to each other, and bearing the
names of Liddel and Hermitage. Its houses and
gardens are held on lease of 99 years; but the
land attached to tbem, and a right of commonage,
only from year to year. A general market is held
weekly ; hiring markets in April, May, and Novem-
ber; sheep fairs on the Friday before the second
Wednesday of September, and on the Thursday be-
fore the second Tuesday of October ; and cattle fairs
on the last Friday of October, and on the third Fri-
day of November. The village is alternately with
Langholm the meeting-place of the Eskdale and
Liddesdale Farmers' Association. Population in
1861, 1,124.
CASTLETON OF BOETHWICK, a small vil-
lage in the western extremity of the parish ol
Borthwick, Edinburghshire.
CASTLETON OF BRAEMAR, a village with a
post-office, in the district of Braemar, Aberdeen-
shire. It stands on the road from Glenshee to Aber-
deen, in a romantic situation on the east bank of
the rapid Clunie, a little above its confluence with
the Dee, 15 miles north of the Spittal of Glenshee,
and 57 west-south-west of Aberdeen. It contains
a chapel of the Royal Bounty, a Free church, a Ro-
man Catholic chapel, and two excellent inns ; and
is well known to tourists as head-quarters for visit-
ing the Cairngorm mountains, the Linn of Dee, Mat
forest, or the localities around the autumnal resi-
dence of the royal family. Population in 1851, 124.
See Auchendryne, Braemar, and Cratuie.
CASTLETON" OF KINCARDINE, a farm, con
tairung the nuns of an ancient royal palace, in the
parish of Fordoun, 4 miles west-south-west of Auch-
inblae and the same distance north-west of Lau-
rencekirk, Kincardineshire. " There are no re-
cords," said the New Statistical Account in 1837,
l! stating the period when Kincardine castle was
built, or when it was last occupied. It was a royal
palace previous to the death of Kenneth III., in
994, for it was occupied by that monarch at the
time of his murder by Finella. This palace or cas-
tle seems to have been a place of considerable
strength. A morass surrounded it, a great part of
which has been drained within the last thirty years.
It stands on the termination of a small ridge, at an
elevation of about sixty or eighty feet above the
adjoining meadows, and has a very commanding
view of the most beautiful part of the How o' the
Meams. It appears to have been of a quadrangu-
lar shape, of which little now remains except the
foundations of some walls, built with all the solidity
common in former ages. It was in Kincardine
palace, as Lord Hailes says, that John Baliol re-
signed his crown to Edward I. of England, July
2, 1296. As this is the last event of importance on
record connected with the history of this palace, it
is not improbable that it was destroyed in the wars
betwixt the Scotch and English which followed
that event." The ancient town of Kincardine, the
quondam capital of the county, now represented by
a small decayed village, stood adjacent to the castle.
See Kincardine.
CASTLETON OF MUCKART, an estate in the
parish of Muckart, Perthshire, on which are some
vestiges of a mansion built in 1320 by Archbishop
Lamberton.
CASTLETON OF OLRICK, a village with a
post-office in the parish of Olrick, Caithness-shire.
It stands at the head of Dunnet bay, on the road
from Thurso to Wick, 5 miles east of Thurso. It
is a modern thriving place, and contains some
handsome houses. Extensive quarries of paving-
stone are worked in the vicinity ; and a considerable
commerce is carried on at the adjacent little harbour
of Castlehill, in the exportation of paving-stone and
the importation of coal. Population of the village
758.
CASTLE-URQUHART. See Urquhart
CASTLE-VARRICH. See Tongue.
CASTLEWIGG. See Wjiithoen.
CASTRAMOUNT. See Girthon.
CATACOL, a beautiful valley, about 3 miles long,
less than a mile broad, opening upon KilbrannaD
Sound, about 2 miles south of Loch Ranza, in the
CATERLINE.
262
CATHCART.
north-west of the island of Arran. A burrow or
small green mound stands on the beach at the foot
of it, and is said to cover the grave of a famous an-
cient sea-king of the name of Ann, slain by Fioun.
CAT-CASTLE. See Stonehouse.
CATCUNE-CASTLE. See Borthwick.
CATERLINE, an ancient parish and a modern
fishing- village on the coast of Kincardineshire.
The parish is now united to Kixneff: which see.
The village is situated about 5 miles north-north-
east of Bervie. A pier was built here a few years
ago by Lord Arbuthnott, and is very serviceable
for landing coals and lime. The locality presents
good advantages for more extended harbourage.
There is an Episcopalian chapel in the village.
Population, 79.
CATEETHUN, a hill in the parish of Men-
muir, 5 miles north-west of Brechin, Forfarshire;
so called from the British carter, ' a fortress ;' and
dun, ' a hill.' It is remarkable for a strong fortifi-
cation on its summit. This building consists of an
immense quantity of loose stones ranged around
the summit in an oval form. Bound the external
base is a deep ditch; and 100 yards below are the
vestiges of another surrounding the hill. The area
within the first or highest mound is flat ; the length
of the oval is 436 feet, and the transverse diameter
200. This area is covered with a fine soft grass,
while, without the ring, the surface of the hill is
covered with heath and moss. Within the area is
a spring of the coldest water ; and near the east
side are the remains of a rectangular building, of
which the dyke and ditch are yet to be easily
traced. The ascent of the hill is very steep, and
the summit can only be approached in one direction.
There is another fortification of inferior strength in
the neighbourhood, on a lower hill, to the north-
ward, called Brown Caterthun, from the colour of
its ramparts which are composed of earth ; that
previously described being known as White Cater-
thun. It is of a circular figure, and consists of sev-
eral concentric circles. As White Caterthun at a
distance has a resemblance to the frustum of a cone,
from the heap of stones at its summit, it has been
considered by some to have been a volcano, the
crater of which is extinct. But there neither is the
appearance of lava, nor of any other volcanic mat-
ter, in the neighbourhood ; and there is evidently a
systematic arrangement of the stones which com-
pose its fortification. Pennant thinks that these
hill-forts may have been occupied by the Caledon-
ians, previous to their engagement at the foot of
the Grampians with Agricola.
CATHCART, a parish partly in Lanarkshire, but
chiefly in Renfrewshire, and reaching within a mile
of the southern suburbs of Glasgow. It has a post-
office station of its own name, and contains the vil-
lages of Old Cathcart, New Cathcart, Clarkston,
Crosshill, Crossmyloof, Hangingshaw, Langside,
Millbridge, and Netherlee. It is bounded by the
parishes of Govan, Gorbals, Rutherglen, Carmun-
nock, Meams, and Eastwood. Its length northward
is 4 miles, and its greatest breadth is about 2 miles.
The surface is very agreeably diversified with hill and
dale, presenting to the eye those alternate risings and
falls which constitute picturesque beauty. Many
of the hills bear the marks of the plough to the very
summit ; and all, in every part, are in some way or
other under cultivation. Through these hills the
White Cart winds its romantic course. Towards
the south, the country is more bleak and barren,
and the hills of greater height. Mr. Ramsay says:
" Sluggish and unadorned though the river White
Cart be in the lower part of its course, it exhibits
much beauty in its progress through the parish of
Cathcart, the banks being frequently elevated and
clothed with a rich drapery of wood. Such is the
warmth and shelter in some of the sequestered spots
on its banks, that an almost perpetual verdure is to
be found. In the midst of this scenery ' the Bard
of Hope,' and the amiable author of ' The Sabbath,'
were, in their childhood, accustomed to pass their
summer-months and feed their young fancies, re-
moved from the smoke and noise of their native
city. The latter, in his ' Birds of Scotland,' says:
' Forth from my low-roofed home I wandered blythe
Down to thy side, sweet Cart! where, cross the stream,
A range of stones, below a shallow ford,
Stood in the place of the now spauning arch.'
And Campbell, in his ' Lines on revisiting Cathcart,'
thus tenderly apostrophizes the pleasant fields which
he had so often traversed ' in life's morning march,
when his bosom was young:'
' Oh! scenes of my childhood, and dear to my heart,
Ye green waving woods on the margin of Cart,
How blest in the morning of life I have stray'd
By the stream of the vale and the grass covered glade!' "
The climate is salubrious; and many families of
Glasgow citizens retire to this parish in summer for
the benefit of the air. Agriculture has undergone
more extensive improvement than in many similar
districts, and is now in an excellent condition. The
landowners amount to about thirty; the chief of
whom are Gordon of Aikenhead, Brown of Langside,
Graham of Dripps, Clark of Crossbill, and Thomson
of Camphill. Aikenhead House is a splendid mo-
dern mansion; and some of the other residences
give fine features to the landscape. Coal and lime-
stone were worked formerly, but not now. Iron-
stone is abundant, and promises to be in request.
Handloom weaving employs many of the parish-
ioners ; and there are a paper-mill, a snuff-mill, and
two print-fields on the Cart. The parish is traversed
by two great lines of road from Glasgow into Ayr-
shire. A chief object of historical interest is the
field of Langside, the scene, on the 13th of May,
1568, of the last fruitless effort of the unfortunate
Mary to regain her crown. An eminence is yet
pointed out, near the old castle of Cathcart, called
the Court knowe, where the queen stood during the
engagement; and a hawthorn bush — commonly
known by the name of ' Queen Mary's Thorn ' —
marks the spot. See Langside. Cathcart gives
name, and the title of Earl, to the ancient family of
Cathcart, whose hereditary estates here were alien-
ated by Alan, 3d Lord Cathcart, in 1546. The
family within the present century, repurchased the
lands on which the castle of Cathcart stands, and
another portion named Symshill. The castle of
Cathcart, 1£ mile south-east of Langside, has been
a very strong building. " The time when it was
reared," says Mr. Ramsay, " is unknown. From
the remains it appears to have been a place of great
strength. Two of its sides are completely defended
by the river, to which there is an almost perpendi-
cular descent of tremendous height. The access on
the other side — except by a narrow entry which
might have been secured by a ditch and draw-bridge
— is pretty steep and difficult ; so that, in times when
the art of attack was not so well understood, it might
have made a considerable defence. The original
edifice consisted of a square tower, ' to which,' says
Hamilton of Wishaw, writing about the year 1710,
' several new buildings have been added.' This
more modern portion was ' completely removed ' by
the end of that century. From Wishaw we also
learn that the castle ' had fruitful gardens about it.
This edifice was inhabited till about the year 1750,
when it was given up for demolition by the proprie-
| tor of that day, Maxwell of Williamwood, upon his
CATHCART.
263
CATRAIL.
removing to another dwelling. The materials were
sold to a tradesman in Glasgow, who, having taken
off the roof, was proceeding to demolish the rest of
the building, when he found himself obliged to stop
by the resistance he met with from the strength and
thickness of the walls. Since that time the edifice
has remained in a dismantled state, without, how-
ever, suffering much further injury from the in-
fluence of the weather. Upon the bank of the river,
and adjacent to the castle, stands Cathcart House,
the modern mansion of the family. Upwards of
twenty years ago there was built into the front wall
of this house a stone, on which are sculptured the
arms of Cathcart, quartered with those of Stair, in-
dicating the connection of these families through
the marriage of Alan, 7 th Lord Cathcart, to a daugh-
ter of Viscount Stair, the eminent lawyer." Popu-
lation of the Renfrewshire portion of the parish in
1831,2,082; in 1851,2,734. Houses, 307. Popu-
lation of the whole parish in 1831, 2,282; in 1361,
3,782. Houses, 398. Assessed property in 1843,
£11,955.
"This parish is in the presbytery of Glasgow, and
svnod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Gordon of
Aikenhead. Stipend, £274 4s. Id.; glebe, £16.
Unappropriated teinds, £15 19s. od. Schoolmaster's
salary, £34, with about £60 fees. The parish church
is an elegant edifice, built in 1832, and containing
about 1 ,000 sittings.
CATHCART (New), a village in the parish of
Cathcart, Renfrewshire. It stands on the White
Cart, 2J miles south of Glasgow, on the east road
thence to Kilmarnock. It was founded about the
commencement of the present century, and promised
for a time to become a place of some consequence,
but eventually lost its chief means of prosperity,
and sat down as a mere quiet neighbour of Old
Cathcart. Population, 749.
CATHCART (Old), a village in the parish of
Cathcart, Renfrewshire. Population, 174.
CATHERINE (Loch). See Katrine.
CATHERINE'S (St.), a ferry on Loch Fyne,
opposite Inverary, and equidistant from the nor-
thern terminations of the Strachur and Ardnoe roads.
There is a small pier here 90 yards in length. There
is also a comfortable inn.
CATHERINE'S (St.), Edinburghshire. See
LlBERTON.
. CATHKIN. See Carmuunock.
CATLAW, one of the Grampians, in the northern
part of the parish of Kingoldrum, in the county of
Forfar; the elevation of which by barometrical
mensuration has been found to be 2,264 feet above
the level of the sea. At the base towards the north-
east is a chalybeate spring. See Kihgoldruji.
CATRAIL (The), a remarkable trenched fortifi-
cation which may be traced from near the junction
of the Gala and Tweed to the mountains of Cum-
berland. Its general breadth is from 20 to 24 feet,
and it is supported by bill-forts scattered in the line
of its course. " It is known in the country," says
Ctuilrners in his ' Caledonia,' [vol. i. pp. 239-242,]
" by the several names of the Catrail, and of the
Pictsworkditch. The Catrail is the British name of
ancient times ; and signifies, in the British language
— -what distinctly intimates the purposes for which
it was made — 'the Dividing fence,' or 'the Parti-
tion of defence.' The name of the Pictsworkditch
was applied to this remarkable fence, in more mo-
dern times, by the same people who called Severus's
wall the Pictswall, and other objects by the same
well-known name. The Catrail, consisting of a fosse,
and a double rampart, runs through the shires of
Selkirk and Roxburgh, from Galashiels on the north,
to the Peel fell, at the eastern extremity of Lidsdale,
on the south. The Pictsworkditch first appears, on
the north, at a farm called Mosalec, a mile westward
from Galashiels, near the obvious remain of a Brit-
ish fort. From Mosalee, it runs, southward, by the
west 'side of Boghall; and, at the end of 2 miles,
arrives at the Rink-hill, on the summit of which
there are the remains — as the name implies — of a
British hill-fort, that is of an elliptical form, and
defended by two ditches, and two ramparts of earth
and stone. From the Rink-hill, the Pictsworkditch
proceeds, in a south-west direction, across the
Tweed, near the influx of the Howdenpot-burn ;
and continues its course to a British fort on the
west side of this stream. From this fort, the Picts-
workditch parses Cribshill ; and is again discovered
several miles, westward, passing along the south-
east declivity of Minchmoor, whence it passes Hen-
billhope, where it is distinctly seen, in its obvious
course, for a quarter of a mile. It afterwards
clearly appears as it ascends the Swinebraehill
above Yarrow kirk ; and passing the Yarrow river,
near Redhawse, it is again observable several miles
southward, near Delorain burn, on the south side
of Ettrick river. From this position, it has been
traced across Coplaw; and thence, southward, by
the base of Stanhopelaw, where its singular remains
are pretty distinct. For some distance southward
of Stanhopelaw, it cannot now be traced, owing to
the swampiness of the country ; but the Pictswork-
ditch again appears on Hendwoody common ;
whence it proceeds, in a south-west direction, across
Borthwick water, past a farmstead called Broadlee,
where the remains of it become very distinct for
the course of a mile-and-a-half, till it reaches Slate-
hillmoss. From this position, it proceeds forwards,
in a south-east direction, across Teviot river,
through the farm of North-house to Dockcleugh-
hill, where its remains are very distinct: from
Dockcleugh-hill it continues a south-east course, in
a slanting form, across Allan Water, to a place
named Dod, passing two hill-forts on the left. From
Dod, where its remains are distinct, the Pictswork-
ditch proceeds eastward, past another British fort
called Whitehillbrae ; and it there ascends the Car-
riage-hill, on which its remains are veiy perfect.
From Carriage-hill it proceeds across a rivulet,
called Langside burn ; and here, says Gordon, the
tourist, 'it becomes the landmark betwixt the Duke
of Buccleuch's estate, and Sir Gilbert Elliot of
Stobs.' From Langside burn its remains appear
very distinct, as they pass along the northern base
of the Maiden Paps to the Leapsteel ; and thence
passing Robertslin, it traverses a tract of boggy
ground called Cockspart. Crossing the hills into
the upper parts of Lidsdale, the remains of it again
appear on Dawstane-burn ; and thence passing the
abbey, it goes on to Dawstane-rig. From this posi-
tion, faint vestiges of it were traced nearly to the
Peel-fell, which is one of the chain of mountains
that forms a natural barrier between Northumber-
land, on the south, and Teviotdale and Lidsdale, on
the north. Gordon — who has the merit of having
first brought this curious remain into notice — ab-
surdly supposes it to have been a limes, or bound-
ary, which the Caledonians established after their
peace with the Emperor Severus. He ought to
have recollected that this work is in the country of
the Romanized Britons of Valentia, and lies far
from the land of the Mreatse and Caledonians.
Maitland, with equal absurdity, has converted the
Catrail into a Roman road. If he had only exa-
mined it, he would have seen that it is as different
from a Roman road as a crooked is from a straight
line, or as a concave work is from a convex. The
able and disquisitive Whitaker was the first who
CATRINE.
264
CAVERTON.
applied the Catrail to its real purpose, by referring
it to its proper period. There can hardly be a doubt
whether the Catrail was onee a dividing fence, be-
tween the Romanized Britons of the Cumbrian
kingdom, and their Saxon invaders on the east. It
cannot, indeed, be fitly referred to any other his-
torical period of the country, which is dignified by
the site of this interesting antiquity. The Britons
and the Saxons were the only hostile people whose
countries were separated by this warlike fence,
which seems to have been exactly calculated to
overawe the encroaching spirit of the Saxon people."
CATRINE, a small manufacturing and post town
in the parish of Sorn, Ayrshire. It is verypleasantly
situated on the right bank of the river Ayr, 2 miles
east-south-east of Mauchline, and 15 east-north-east
of Ayr. It is of a regular form, having in the middle
a square of 300 feet, with streets leading from it on
the east, south, and west ; these are intersected with
other cross streets at right angles. In 1787, Claude
Alexander, Esq. of Ballochmyle, the proprietor, in
partnership with the well-known Mr. David Dale
of Glasgow, established extensive spinning machi-
nery here, and built the town for the accommoda-
tion of their work-people. In 1801, Messrs. James
Finlay and Company of Glasgow purchased the
cotton works, and afterwards greatly enlarged them ;
and in 1824, they erected an extensive bleaching
work and three very large water-wheels. Both the
town and the factories nave a very high character
in the mamvfacturing world, — the former for its
neatness, and the latter for the superior quality of
their productions. The dwelling-houses of the work-
people are substantial and slated, — generally two
stories high, — mostly arranged in occupancies of
two rooms to a family, — and many of them, the pro-
perty of the occupants. A committee is appointed
annually by the proprietors of houses to superintend
all matters of police. In 1838, the cotton mills in
the town employed 750 hands and 290 horse power.
A chapel of ease with 754 sittings was built here by
Mr. Alexander, in 1792, which was purchased in
1829 by the feuars of Catrine for £400; but ever
since the disruption in 1843, this place of worship
has been without an ordained minister. There are
likewise in the town a Morrisonian Meeting-house
of recent erection, a Free church, whose yearly pro-
ceeds in 1853 amounted to £264 13s. 8 jd., and an
United Presbyterian church which contains 580 sit-
tings. The town has a large public library, several
friendly and benevolent institutions, and a branch-
otficeof the Royal Bank of Scotland. The river
Ayr in the vicinity revels amid, beautiful romantic
scenery, and is spanned by a viaduct of the Glasgow
and South-western railway about 190 feet in height.
Some spots in the neighbourhood also are associated
with the poetry of Bums. See Ballochmyle and
Mauchline. Populationin 1841, 2, 659; in 1861, 2,484.
CATSTANE (The). See Ktkkliston.
CATTER. See Kilmaronock.
CATTERLINE. See Caterline.
CAULDCLEUGH, one of the chain of mountains
on the mutual border of Teviotdale and Liddesdale
in Roxburghshire. It is situated 3J miles east-
north-east of Mosspaul inn, and has an altitude of
about 1,800 feet above sea-level.
CAULDHAME, a hamlet in the part of the par-
ish of Kippen which belongs to Perthshire. Popu-
lation, 70.
CAULDSHIELDS, a lake in the part of the par-
ish of Galashiels which belongs to Roxburghshire.
See Galashiels. On a hill adjacent to the lake is
an ancient British fort which appears to have been
connected by a rampart and fosse with the work on
the middle Eildon hill, 2 m. to the east. See Eildon. I
CAUSEA. SeeCovESEA.-
CAUSEWAYHEAD, a village partly within the
parish and burgh of Stirling, and partly within the
Clackmannanshire portion of the parish of Logie.
It stands about a mile north of the town of Stirling,
or rather terminates the Long Causeway of Stirling,
on the road to Dunblane. Population, 309.
CAUSEWAYSIDE, a village contiguous to Toll-
cross, in the parish of Old Monkland, Lanarkshire.
Population in 1851, 367. See Tollcross.
CAVA, a small island of Orkney, 2 miles south
of Houston Head in Pomona, and belonging to the
parish of Orphir. It is about a mile long, and a
quarter of a mile broad. There is a ruinous chapel on
it. Populationin 1841, 23; in 1851,24. Houses, 4.
CAVERS, a parish, containing the post-office vil-
lage of Denhohn, in Roxburghshire. It formerly
consisted of two parts, separated from each other by
Hawick and Kirktown parishes, — the one part lying
on the southern border of the county, contiguous to
England and Liddesdale, and the other lying nearly
in the centre of Teviotdale. The former was re-
cently erected into the separate parish of Teviot-
head, — which see ; and only the latter constitutes
the present parish of Cavers. This is bounded by
the parishes of Hawick, Kirktown, Hobkirk, Bed-
rule, Minto, and Wilton. Its length north-eastward
is nearly 8 miles; and its greatest breadth is less
than 2 miles. The Teviot skirts all its north-west
side, and the Rule all its north-east end. The sur-
face near the streams comprises much flat rich land;
farther up, comprises a beautiful variety of undula-
tion, hill, dale, ravine, beauteous fields, and well-set
woods ; and on the upper border, goes boldly aloft
to the rough shoulders and frowning forehead of
Rubberslaw. The scenery, from end to end, along
the lower side, is exquisitely beautiful, and in some
parts borrows splendour or romance from the opposite
side of the Teviot. See Rubberslaw, Teviot (The),
and Minto. The only mansion of note is Cavers
House, the seat of Mr. Douglas. The parish is tra-
versed by the road from Hawick to Kelso, and enjoys
ready access to the Hawick branch of the North
British railway. Population in 1861, 1,824. Houses,
249. Assessed property in 1843, £12,492 15s. 8d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Jedburgh, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, Douglas
of Cavers. Stipend, £250 6s. Unappropriated
teinds, £1,134 12s. 7d. Schoolmaster's salary, £30.
The parish church was built in 1822, and contains
500 sittings. There are a Free church and an In-
dependent chapel in Denholm ; and the yearly re-
ceipts of the former in 1853 amounted to £73 8s.
There are two public libraries. Denholm was the
birth-place, in 1775, of Dr. John Leyden, the poet
of Teviotdale ; and Cavers church was the scene of
some of the earliest stated ministrations of Dr.
Chalmers.
CAVERTON, a village in the parish of Eckford,
Roxburghshire, 4J miles south-south-east of Kelso,
near which is an extensive moor, called Caverton
Edge, on which the Kelso races were formerly held.
It was burnt by the English in 1544, and again in
1553. The vicinity of Moss tower, an important
border-stronghold, about a furlong to the north-east,
seems to have drawn upon it these visitations. The
barony of Caverton belonged to the Lord Soulis,
who, according to tradition, was boiled alive at the
Ninestane rigg in the parish of Castleton, near his
castle of Hermitage. There is a sub-parochial
school in the village, with £17 2s. 2Jd. salary, and
about £17 fees.
CAWDOR. SeeCALBER.
CAWELA LOCH. See Neilston.
CAYLE (The). See Kale.
CEANNABIN.
265
CESSFORD.
CEANNABIN. A mountain in tlio middle divi-
sion of the parish of Durness, Sutherlandshire.
OEANNAMHAEA. Seo Tikee.
CEANNARU (Loon), a lako, nearly a mile long
and about a quarter of a mile broad, in tbe hill of
Grandtully, surrounded and overlooked by bleak,
barren mountains, in the parish of Dull, Perthshire.
The ruins of an old shooting-lodge stand on an
islet near its middle ; and a neat modem villa, in
the cottage style, stands on its north bank.
CEA.NNARD (The), a rivulet traversing a beau-
tiful vale, to which it gives the name of Strathcean-
nard, in the Coigach district of the parish of Loch-
broom, Cromartyshire.
CELLARDY'KES, a large fishing-village in the
parish of Kilrenny, Fifeshire. It adjoins Anstruth-
er-Easter, and forms part of the burgh of Kilrenny.
See Kilkenny. It took its name from the circum-
stance of containing cellars or storehouses for lodg-
ing fish. The principal trade is fishing for the
Edinburgh market ; and the Cellardykes fishermen
are proverbial for their dexterity and hardihood.
The take of herrings by the fishermen of this place,
in 1839, was 25,000 barrels. The number of boats
was 80, of an average burden of 113 tons each. Cod
and haddocks are also extensively exported from
this place in afresh, dried, and pickled state. There
are two boys' schools here, a female school, an
infant school, and a savings' bank. Population in
1811, 805; in 1861, 1,893.
CERES, a parish, containing a post-office village
of the same name, and also the villages of Chance-
Inn, Craigrothie, Croftdyke, and Bridgend, in the
interior of Fifeshire. It is bounded by the parishes
of Cupar, Kemback, St. Andrews, Cameron, Kilcon-
quhar, Largo, Scoonie, Kettle, and Cults. Its
length north-eastward is 7 J miles ; and its breadth
varies from J a mile to 4 miles. The river Eden
skirts a wing of it for li mile on the north-
west. Five streamlets run into the interior
from respectively the west, the south, and the
east, and unite a little above the village of Ceres
to form Ceres bum; and this passes through
the village, runs 1J mile to the north-east, enters
there the beautiful den of Dura, and soon after
falls into the Eden. The surface of the parish
is pleasantly and even picturesquely diversified,
but on the whole consists of a beautiful valley,
screened by Tarvet hill and Magus moor. Its
superficial area amounts to about 8,000 acres, of
which four-tenths are in tillage, five-tenths in pas-
ture, and one-tenth is planted as moorland. The
average rent is £1 10s. per acre ; and the valued
rental is £8,248 Is. Id. Scots. The landowners are
the Earl of Glasgow, Wilson of Craigrothie, Stark
of Teasses, Sir John Hope of Craighall, and about
twenty others. Limestone abounds and is exten-
sively wrought. Coal and sandstone are also found.
There are 500 looms within the parish employed in
the manufacture of linen ; and there are three spin-
ning-mills for the manufacture of linen yam, and
also a bleachfield establishment. Teasses House
and Edenwood House are beautiful modem man-
sions ; the former so situated as to command a bril-
liant view of the frith of Forth. The ruins of
Craighall House, built by the celebrated Scottish
jurisconsult Sir Thomas Hope, are situated about a
mile to the south-east of the village of Ceres ; and
to the south-west are the ruins of Strutters' house,
now the property of the Earl of Glasgow. Upon
the estate of Scotstarvet, is a beautiful tower of
jointed freestone, 24 feet square, and about 50 feet
high. The walls are very thick, and the windows
small ; the whole is surmounted by a battlement.
The parish is traversed through the middle by the
road from Cupar to Pittenweem and Crail, and across
the north-west wing by the road from Cupar to
Kirkcaldy. Lindsay of Pitscottie, author of a well-
known history of Scotland, was a native of this
parish. Population in 1831, 2,762 ; in 1861, 2,723.
Houses, 627. Assessed property in 1843, £12,561
19s. lid.
This parish is in the presbytery of Cupar, and sy-
nod of Fife. Patron, the Earl of Glasgow. Stipend,
£229 13s. 4d. Unappropriated teinds, £5 9s. 4d.
Schoolmaster's salary, £34 4s. 4|d., with about £40
fees. Prior to the Reformation, there was a chapel
in this parish dedicated to St. Ninian ; and the school-
master of Ceres receives a presentation to be chap-
lain of the chapel of St. Ninian, within the church
of Ceres, and to be reader of that parish. A small
salary of £3 Scots was formerly payable to the chap-
lain, from certain houses in Cupar ; but these houses
cannot now be discovered, and the chaplainry has
become a title without a benefice. The parish
school-house is a handsome building. The parish
church stands on an eminence in the centre of the
town. It was built in 1806, and contains 1,100 sit-
tings. There is a Free church ; and the yearly
sum raised, in connexion with it in 1853, was £155
19s. 4Jd. There are two United Presbyterian
churches, — called the First and the East, each with
an attendance of between 200 and 300. There are
five non-parochial schools, and several friendly so-
cieties. The Springfield station of the Edinburgh
and Northern railway is adjacent to the west end of
the parish.
The Town of Ceres stands 2 J miles south-east of
Cupar, on the road thence to Pittenweem. It con-
tains several streets and some good houses, and has
a neatly-kept rivulet-bordered green. Its places of
worship make it conspicuous ; and the burial vault of
the noble family of Crawford-Lindsay, containing the
remains of several persons of great historical note,
give it considerable antiquarian interest, yet has no
artistic attraction, but is merely a small tile-covered
building, once the wing of an old church, and now
contiguous to the present parish church. The town
consists of a town proper and a suburb, — Ceres and
the Bridgend of Ceres — the former old and the lat-
ter new. The town proper is a burgh of barony,
holding of the Hopes of Craighall, with obligation
on the feuars to attend the head courts ; but it has
no charter. The whole place carries on a consider-
able trade in brown linen. Fairs are held on the
24th of June and 20th of October. Population in
1861, inclusive of Bridgend and Croftdvke, 1,216.
CESSFORD, a village in the parish of Eckford,
Roxburghshire. It stands 6J miles north-east of
Jedburgh, on the road thenee to Yetholm. A rivulet,
called Cessford bum, rises in Jedburgh parish, and
runs 4 miles northward past the village to the Kail.
The ancient castle of Cessford, which gives the title
of Baron to the Duke of Roxburgh, stands near the
village on the south. The first proprietor of this
castle, mentioned in history, was Andrew Ker of
Attonbum, who obtained the title of Baron Cess-
ford, and got a charter of confirmation from Archi-
bald, Earl Douglas, dated 1446. In 1570, the laird
of Cessford was made warden of the Scottish mid-
dle marches- Cessford castle, being only 4 or 5
miles from the English confines, was necessarily
rendered a place of security ; and according to tra-
dition, there was a subterraneous vault for conceal-
ing both persons and goods within its walls, to
which access was only got by one aperture which
was opened or shut by a large stone with an iron
ring in it. " This stone and ring," says the writer
of the Old Statistical Account, " have been seen by
some persons still alive ; but the entrance to tha
CESSNOCK.
266
CHAPEL-OF-GAKIOCH.
peel or dungeon is now choked up with rubbish."
In the New Statistical Account it is stated that this
vault is about 17 feet long, 10 broad, and 9 deep.
No date is discernible to fix the period of the erec-
tion of this castle ; but from those parts of the walls
yet entire, it appears to have been a place of consi-
derable strength, both from the thickness of the
walls, which are 12 feet at an average, — the vestiges
of the battlements on the top, — the embrasures on
the sides, — and the remains of a surrounding moat
which was probably furnished with water from a
spring above the present farm-house, about 2 fur-
longs distant. The roof is entirely gone. The area
within the walls is 39 feet in length, and 20 in
breadth. See Eckfoed. Population of the village
160.
CESSNOCK (The), a small river of the district of
Kyle, Ayrshire. It rises about Distincthom Hill,
on the eastern border of the county, runs about 5
miles south-westward to within a mile or so of
Mauchline, and then runs about 9 miles north-north-
westward, yet with great sinuosities, to a confluence
with the Irvine, about 2 miles below Galston. It is
an excellent angling stream, and flows in many
parts through varied and picturesque scenery. See
Galston.
CHANCE- INN, a village in the parish of Ceres,
Fifeshire. It stands on the west side of the parish,
at about equal distances from Ceres and Cupar. Po-
pulation, 132.
CHANCE-INN, an inn and post-office station
near Inverkeilor church, on the road from Arbroath
to Montrose, Forfarshire.
CHANLOCH. See Penpont.
CHANNELKIRK, a parish in the north-west cor-
ner of Berwickshire, — bounded by Edinburghshire,
Haddingtonshire, and the parish of Lauder, and
containing the head-streams of Leader Water. It
has a somewhat circular outline, with a diameter of
5A miles. Its post-town is Lauder, 2i miles be-
yond its southern limit. The parish is chiefly pas-
toral. On the banks of the streamlets are about
3,000 acres in tillage, having a light thin soil on a
bed of sandy gravel. The hills are mostly bleak,
and covered with heath. There are eleven land-
owners, and the real rental is £5,400. A great
many Pietish or Scottish military encampments are
to be seen in this neighbourhood. They are called
rings by the common people. General Roy has
preserved a plan of a Roman camp here. About a
quarter of a mile west of the kirk is a fine spring
called ' The Well of the Holy Water cleugh.' The
Girthgate, or road by which the monks travelled
from Melrose to Edinburgh, passes through the
western border of the parish ; and on this road, a few
miles due west of the church, are the ruins of an
old building commonly called Restlaw Ha', at which,
tradition says, the monks and pilgrims used to stop
for refreshment. The road from Edinburgh to Kelso
passes through the centre of the parish; and on
this road, just before it leaves the parish, is the
stage of Carfrae-mill, while a little to the west
stands the village of Oxton, which in 1834 had 213
inhabitants. Population of the parish in 1831, 841 ;
in 1851, 728. Houses, 134. Assessed property in
1843, £6,053 8s. lid.
This parish, formerly a rectory, with the chapels
of Glengelt and Carfrae annexed, is in the presbytery
of Lauder, and synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Pa-
tron, Sir H. P. H. Campbell, Baronet. Stipend,
£190 5s. 6d.; glebe, XI 5. Schoolmaster's salary,
£30, with about £40 fees. The church stands on the
top of a hill nearly in the centre of the parish. It
was built in 1817, and contains 300 sittings. There
are a parochial library and a friendly society. ,
CHANONRY, a town in the parish of Rosemarkie,
Ross-shire, situated about half-a-mile south-west of
the burgh of Rosemarkie, to which it was united by
a charter granted by James II., under the common
name of Fortrose. It was called Chanonry, from be-
ing the canonry of Ross, and the residence of the
bishop. It is now the seat of a presbyteiy. See
Fortrose and Rosemarkie.
CHAPEL, a village in the parish of Abbotshail,
Fifeshire. Population, 159.
CHAPEL, Renfrewshire. See Chappell.
CHAPEL, any locality which is or was the site
of an ancient chapel. There are places of this name
in the parishes of Bothwell. Dirleton, Kelso, Lauder,
Lilliesleaf, and Tynron.
CHAPEL-DONAN, See Girvan and Maybole.
CHAPELFIELD. See Abbey St. Bathans.
CHAPEL-FINAN. See Mochrum.
CHAPELHALL, a large village in the vicinity of
Holytown, parish of Bothwell, Lanarkshire. Here
the Monkland Iron and Steel Company have works
which produce about 1,100 tons of pig-iron per
month. Adjacent also are extensive collieries. The
village is of quite recent growth, and consists of
well-built, comfortable houses of one and two storeys,
nearly one half of which are the property of the
workmen. Population of the village, 1,990.
CHAPELH1LL, a village in the parish of Mon-
zie, Perthshire.
CHAPELHILL, any eminence on which has
stood, or stands now, an ancient chapel. There are
places of this name in the parishes of Culter,
Douglas, Dundonald, Kirkmahoe, Logie, Kirk-
patrick, West Kilpatrick, Monadie, Muthil, Rober-
ton, Rothesay, Trinitv-Gask, Rothes, and Tarbat.
CHAPELHOPE. " See Mary's (St.) Loch.
CHAPELKNOWE. See Half-Morton.
CHAPEL-OF-GARIOCH, a parish, containing
the post-office station of Pitcaple, in the Garioch dis-
trict of Aberdeenshire. It is bounded by Rayne,
Daviot, Bourtie, Keithhall, Inverary, Monvmusk,
Kemnay, Oyne, and the hill of Benochie. Its length
southward is 10 miles ; and its breadth is from 2 to
5. The Don runs on the southern boundary ; and
the Ury intersects the northern and broadest district.
The surface is uneven, but not mountainous or
boldly hilly. There is a considerable extent of
plantation. The rocks are principally granite and
trap. There are twelve landowners, and the real
rental is about £4,722. The mansions are Logie,
Elphinstone, Pittrodie, Fetternear, and Pitcaple.
There are eight or nine corn and barley mills, three
saw-mills, two mills for carding and spinning wool,
and a lint mill. The castle of Pitcaple on the south
bank of the Ury is an ancient building with a con-
siderable modern addition. The ruinous castle of
Balquhain about half-a-mile south-east of the church
is a place of great but unknown antiquity, and is
said to have been burnt to the ground in 1746 by
the Duke of Cumberland. Near this is a Druid-
ical temple ; a remarkably fine echo is observable
here. About half-a-mile west of the church is a
large upright stone, 10 feet high, 4 broad, and 1 foot
thick, called the Maiden stone. Pennant has given
an engraving of the hieroglyphics cut upon it. Near
the kirk-town, in 1411, was fought the battle of
Harlaw, between Alexander, Earl of Mar, and Don-
ald, Lord of the Isles. See Harlaw. The parish is
crossed by the road from Aberdeen to Inverness.
Population in 1831, 1,873; in 1861, 2,023. Houses,
415. Assessed property in 1843, £7,335.
This parish is in the synod of Aberdeen, and Ga-
rioch is the seat of a presbyteiy. It was formerly
called Logie-Durno, but about the beginning of the
17th century was united to the parsonage of Fetter-
CHAPEL OF KEILLOR.
207
CHEVIOT-HILLS.
near, and erected into the present parish. The lands
of Lethinty are annexed quoad sacra to Daviot.
Patron, Sir" J. D. H. Elphinstone, Bart. Stipend,
£217 lis. 8d.; glebe, £22 10s. Unappropriated
teinds, £173 19s. 9d. Schoolmaster's salary, £27,
exclusive of the Dick bequest, with about £20 fees.
The parish church was built in 1813; and contains
722 sittings. There are a chapel of ease and a Free
church at' Blairdaff, which see. There is also an-
other Free church, bearing the name of the parish,
with an attendance of 350; and the yearly sum
raised in connexion with this in 1853 was £207 8s.
lid. There are five non-parochial schools,— two of
them girls' schools, aided by salaries of respectively
£20 and £10. There is also a parochial library.
CHAPEL OF KEILLOR, a small village in the
west of the parish of Newtyle, Forfarshire.
CHAPEL-PARK. See Lilliesleaf and Lady-
kirk.
CHAPEL-ROSAN, a hamlet, with a post-office,
at the northern extremity of the parish of Kirk-
maiden, 11 miles south-south-east of Stranraer,
Wigtonshire.
CHAPELTON. See Rerrick and Ixverkeiloe.
CHAPELTON OF BORGUE, a hamlet in the
parish of Borgue, Kirkcudbrightshire. Population
31.
CHAPELTON OF BOYSACK. See Boysack.
CHAPELTON OF CAMBUSLANG. See Cam-
BUSLANG.
CHAPELTON OF CAPUTH. See Caputh.
CHAPELTON OF GLAbSFORD, a village in the
parish of Glassford, Lanarkshire. Here are a chapel
of ease, a Free church preaching station, two_ schools,
and three friendly societies. Population in 1861,
-634.
CHAPELTON OF GLENLIVET, a locality in the
Braes of Glenlivet, parish of Inveraven, Banffshire.
Here is a Roman Catholic chapel, containing about
300 sittings.
CHAPPELL, a village contiguous to Gateside,
in the parish of Neilston, Renfrewshire. See Gate-
side.
CHARLESTON, a village in the parish of Knock-
bain, Ross-shire.
CHARLESTON, a village in the parish of Rathen,
Aberdeenshire.
CHARLESTON, avillage in the parish of Pitsligo,
Aberdeenshire.
CHARLESTON, a sea-port village, with a post-
office, in the parish of Dunfermline, Fifeshire. It
is pleasantly situated on the frith of Forth, adjacent
to the west end of Limekilns, 3£ miles south-west
by south of Dunfermline, and 4 miles west of Inver-
keithing. It was founded by the Earl of Elgin in
1778, for the accommodation of the workmen at
the extensive lime-works on his estate. It is in
the form of a square, enclosing an area contain-
ing a bleaching green. It has a tolerable harbour.
The number of vessels belonging to Limekilns and
Charleston, in 1828, was 75, averaging 80 tons bur-
den. Coal is conveyed to the works from the Earl
of Elgin's collieries by a railroad about 6 miles in
length. There are 9 drawkilns here. In 181 1 there
were sold at these works 132,563 bolls of lime, 2,400
chalders slacked, 77,200 tons limestone, and 600
tons of ironstone. The present export is about
400,000 bushels of shells, and about 15,000 tons of
raw stone. The working of ironstone has been dis-
continued of late years ; but the export of coals is
immense. The Earl of Elgin's mansion of Broom-
hall is in the vicinity. Population of Chariest™? in
1861, 701.
CHARLESTON OF ABEELOUR. See Abee-
CHARLESTON OF ABOYNE, a village with a
post-office in the parish of Aboyne, Aberdeenshire.
It stands on the north bank of the Dec, and on tho
road from Aberdeen to Castleton of Braemar, 31
miles west by south of Aberdeen. The Dee is here
crossed by a suspension-bridge. In the neighbour-
hood is Aboyne castle, the seat of the Marquis of
Huntly. The surrounding scenery is very magnifi-
cent. The village is a burgh-of-barony. It has six
lairs in the year, viz. on the 3d Wednesday in Feb-
ruary, the 2d Wednesday in April, the 3d Wednes-
day in June, the Friday of Paldy fair week, the 1st
Tuesday in October, old style, and the 2d Wednes-
day in November. Here are a branch-office of the
North of Scotland Bank, and an excellent inn, the
Huntly Arms. Population in 1841, 260 ; in 1851,
187. Houses, 38.
CHARLESTON OF GLAMMIS, a village at the
foot of the glen of Ogilvie, in the parish of Glammis,
Forfarshire. It has been all built since 1833.
Population, 344.
CHARLESTON OF NIGG, a village in the
parish of Nigg, Kincardineshire. It originated about
the year 1810, and stands on a hill Which was then
nearly all a waste, but is now all cultivated.
CHARLESTON OF PAISLEY, a suburban dis-
trict of the south side of the town of Paisley, R.n-
frew'shire. See Paisley.
CHARLOTTE (Fort), a small fortification near
the north end of the town of Lerwick, in Shetland,
said to have been built in the days of Oliver Crom-
well. It commands the entrance to Bressay sound,
and was repaired in 1781.
CHARLOTTE (Port). See Port-Chaelotte.
CHARTERS. See Southdean.
CHARTERS-HALL, a hamlet in the parish of
of St. Ninians, near the right bank of the Bannock,
3J miles south of Stirling. Here is a distillery
which annually consumes about 24,000 bushels of
barley.
CHATELHERAULT. See Avon (The) and
Hamilton.
CHEESE BAY, a natural harbour on the north-
east of the island of North Uist. It is of easy ac-
cess from the south-east, and gives full protection
to vessels of any size at all times of the year.
CHEESE WELL. See Minchhooe.
CHERRYBANK, a village in the East Church
parish of Perth. Population, 157.
CHESTER, any locality which contains the site
or remains of an ancient military camp. The name
is derived from the Saxon ceaster, signifying a camp ;
and is of frequent occurrence in British topography.
There is a Chesterhall in the parish of Gladsmuir,
Haddingtonshire ; another Chesterhall in Cranston,
Edinburghshire; aCbesterhill in Wester- An strather,
Fifeshire ; and a Chesterpark in Newtyle. Forfar-
shire.
CHESTERHILL and SANCHENSIDE, a con-
joint village in the parish of Cranston, eastern
verge of Edinburghshire. Population, 284.
CHESTERS, a village in the parish of Southdean,
7 miles south of Jedburgh, Roxburghshire. Popu-
lation in 1841, 82. See Southdean.
CHESTERS. See Kilsyth, Manoe, and Anceuji.
CHEVIOT -HILLS, a broad range, or rather
circular group, of mountains on the mutual bordei
of Roxburghshire and Northumberland. Cheviot
Hill, the highest of the range, is situated in north
latitude 55° 29', 19 miles from Sunderland Point, and
has an altitude of 2,684 feet above sea-level. A
circle of 60 miles in circumference comprises all the
proper or characteristic Cheviots, to the exclusion
of adjacent heights which run into the general up-
lands of the North of England, and into the great
CHIENSIDE.
268
CHIENSIDE.
broad range of greywacke mountains which are some-
times called the Southern Highlands of Scotland;
and this circle comprehends the highest portions of
the parishes of Eisdon, Alwinton, Alnham, Ingram,
Ilderton, Wooler, and Kirknewton in Northumber-
land, and of the parishes of Yetholm, Morebattle, Hou-
nam, Oxnam, Jedburgh, and Southdean in Rox-
burghshire. The principal pass in the range is that
called Carter bar, which the road from Jedburgh to
Newcastle traverses. The hills have generally a
dome-shaped or sugar-loaf outline, and are grouped
skirt to skirt or shoulder to shoulder like clustering
cones, or like the bubbles of a boiling cauldron, or
as if they were strings of beads from the girdle of
the everlasting mountains. The geological features
of the entire district, clearly indicate a volcanic
origin, being wholly formed of what is termed Cheviot
porphyry and whinstone trap. It is this peculiarity
which constitutes their excellence for sheep pastur-
age ; for the best criterion whereby strangers can
judge of the soundness of the flocks in the border
districts is that they are reared on the whinstone
swards of the Cheviots. Numerous streams, radi-
ating from the central upheaving of the range, form
the sources of the Reed, the Coquet, the Breamish,
the Wooler water, the Bowmont, the Kale, and
the Jed. The highest portions of the Cheviots
are covered with heath ; and large tracts of peat-
bog extend from the summits of the principal moun-
tain southward. The lower hills are mostly steep
and broken in their acclivities, and covered with
abundance of fern, a plant which always indicates
by its presence the porosity and fertility of the sub-
soil. The beautiful sheets of green sward, covering
their very tops, are composed of most of the nutritive
sorts of indigenous grasses. All the district was
for centuries a chief scene of the Border raids, and
is now more famous for its breed of mountain
sheep than any other tract in the entire country, —
thus affording a striking contrast, alike economical
and poetical, between warfare in the past and peace-
fulness in the present. Hence does Mrs. Sigourney
beautifully apostrophise the flocks of sheep on the
Cheviots : —
"Graze on, graze on, — there comes no sound
Of Border warfare near;
No slogan-cry of gathering clan,
No battle-axe, no spear;
No belted knight in armour bright,
With glance of kindled ire,
Doth change the sports of Chevy Chase
To conflict stern and dire.
Graze on, graze on ; there's many a rill
Bright sparkling through the glade,
Where you may freely slake your thirst.
With none to make afraid:
There's many a wandering stream that flows
From Cheviot's terraced side,
Yet not one drop of warrior's gore
Distains its crystal tide ;
For Scotia from her hills hath come
And Albion o'er the Tweed
To give the mountain breeze the feud
That made her noblest bleed ;
And like two friends around whose hearts
Some dire estrangement run,
Love all the better for the past,
And sit them down as one."
CHIRNSIDE, a parish, containing a post-office
village of the same name, in the eastern part of the
Merse district of Berwickshire. It is bounded by
Coldingham, Ayton, Foulden, Hutton, Edrom, and
Buncle. Its length is about 3J miles, breadth about
'A miles, and area about 5,000 acres. Billymire
bum traces the northern boundary ; and the Whit-
adder traces the south-western and the southern
boundary Among the several eminences which
project from the Lammermoor hills into the Merse
Chimside hill is a remarkable one. It is dis-
tinguished by its elevation and semicircular aspect
to the south, joined with the great expansion of its
summit, and its gradual declination to the Whit-
adder. It commands the view of a country, the
richest perhaps in soil — with the exception 'of the
Carses— of any in Scotland. The landscape is that
of a plain, waved with long ridges, running chiefly
in one direction, and of more than 25 miles extent
from the bay of Berwick to the Teviotdale hills, on
the west ; while directly south, and at almost the
same distance, the famed' hills and chaces of Cheviot
form a very striking boundary. " About 60 or 70
years ago," says the writer of the Old Statistical
Account, in 1794, " this prospect, although striking
and noble, was a naked one, and had little or nothing
of the beauty arising from extensive agriculture,
enclosed fields, or plantations. If some groves or
strips of trees marked, here and there, the seats of
the gentry or nobles, besides these, and a few en-
closures joined with them, hardly anything but
waste land, or the poorest culture, was discoverable.
Nature, indeed, wore a robe that indicated a deep
soil. The uncultivated grounds produced immense
tracks of heath, overspread with thick furze, or tall
whins, and, in some drier places, with broom ;
which, in the spring, and through the summer, shed
the golden gleam of their flowers, and their fra-
grance all around. The eye of a spectator, on Chim-
side hill, now has in prospect a country, of the ex-
tent described, all of it in remarkable cultivation ;
the corn-fields and pasture-lands, almost everywhere,
enclosed and divided by hedges and ditches. Large
plantations not only appear around the gentlemen's
seats, but reach in several places, to the extremities
of their lands ; so that they seem to be conjoined to
each other." The progress of agriculture has add-
ed greatly to this richness of prospect since the
commencement of the present century. There are
five principal landowners of Chimside. The real
rental in 1834 was £8,504. Sandstone is wrought in
several quarries. The total yearly value of the raw
produce of the parish was estimated in 1834 at
£14,580. Assessed property in 1843, £8,890 15s. 3d.
The Dunse branch of the North British railway
passes through the parish, and has a station in it.
The Rev. Henry Erskine, father of the well-known
founders of the Secession, was the first minister of
this parish after the Revolution. He died in 1696.
In 1586, the Earl of Dunbar and March, along with
Lord Douglas, met the English warden of the
marches, Lord Neville, at Billymire, for the purpose
of concluding a trace. See Billymire. Population
in 1831, 1,248; in 1861, 1,502. Houses, 265.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the synod
of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, William M. Innes
of Parsonsgreen. Stipend, £247 8s. 6d. ; glebe, £29
8s. Unappropriated teinds, £509 2s. 3d. School-
master's salary, £34 4s. 4Jd., with £30 fees. The
parish church is a building of several centuries old,
comprising a western Saxon door of a previous
church, and containing 500 sittings. There is a
Free church at Allanton beyond the southern bound-
ary of the parish; and a presbytery of the Free
church bears the name of Dunse and Chimside.
There are in the village of Chirnside an United Pres-
byterian church, with an attendance of 450, and a
Reformed Presbyterian church with an attendance of
from 160 to 200. There are in the parish two private
schools, a circulating library, and two friendly
societies.
The Village of Chirnside stands a little west of
the middle of the parish, on the road from Dunse to
Eyemouth, 1J mile north-north-east of Allanton, 5
CIIISIIOLM.
2G9
CLACHNAHARRY.
miles Boutli-wcst of Ayton, fi east-north-east of
Dunso, and 9 north -west by west of Berwick. It
consists of two streets nearly in the form of the letter
T ; the longer of which runs from west to east, about
three quarters of a mile. At the junction of the two
streets is an open space, called the Cross-hill, where
a fair is held, chiefly for the sale of sack-cloth and
linen yarn, on the last Thursday of November.
Population in 1841, about 600; in 1861, 901.
OH1SHOLM, an extensive highland estate, emi-
nent for picturesquo scenery, in the parish of Kil-
morack, north-west border of the mainland of In-
verness-shire. " Between the bridges of Invercan-
nich and Fasnakyle," says Anderson's Guide to the
Highlands, "the" tourist will find an excellent road
striking off to the right, which was made for the
conveyance of wool from the Chisholm's sheepfarms
in the interior, and which terminates at the nearer
end of Loch Bcnneveian, four or five miles distant.
It ascends rapidly and then becomes level, and it
commands fine views of the strath it has left, and of
the river above whose course it conducts, on which
are a series of beautiful cascades from ten to thirty
feet high, occurring in the course of a rapid upwards
of a mile long. The opening through which this
road leads is called the Chisholm's pass. The
scenery is somewhat similar to the celebrated birken
bowers of Killiecrankie and the Trosachs, but on a
much ampler and grander scale ; and to the beauty of
the birch, and of many large native ashes and elms,
the intermixture of tall fantastic pines, here super-
adds the sober and imposing majesty of the Rotkie-
murchus and Mar forests. In ascending the shelv-
ing opening, a prolonged vista in one general mantle
of foliage ascending high ou either side, forms a
woodland picture of incomparable beauty, threaded
by the rocky channel of the river. The path is pro-
longed westward from the termination of the good
road through the Chisholm's pass, and is daily be-
coming more passable for horses as well as foot
passengers."
CHON (Loch). See Con (Loch).
CHRIST'S KIRK, an ancient parish, now annexed
to the parish of Kinnethmont, in the shire of Aber-
deen. The church is in ruins, but the burial-ground
is still in use. It is 4 miles east of Clatt. A fair
was formerly kept here on the Green, in the month
of May, and in the night; from which circumstance,
it was commonly called Sleepy market. A good many
years ago, the proprietor, General Hay of Rannes.
changed it from night to day ; but so strong was the
prepossession of the people in favour of the old cus-
tom, that rather than comply with the alteration,
they chose to neglect it altogether. The scene of
the celebrated poem of ' Cbryst's-Kirk on the Grene,'
commonly ascribed to James I., is supposed by some
mtiquaries to have been here.
CHROISY (Loch). See Contin and Conan (The).
CHRYSTON, a village in the eastern district of
the parish of Cadder, Lanarkshire, on the road from
Glasgow to Cumbernauld. It is a neat place and
might soon become large, were it not repressed by
scarcity of water ; for it is dependent on a well, a
furlong distant, down a very steep descent. The
village has a chapel of ease, a burying ground, a
Free church, a parochial school, and a public library.
The chapel was built in 1780, and has 564 sittings.
The annual receipts of the Free church in 1853
amounted to £169 10s. lOd. Population, 582.
CILLCHUIMAN. See Augustus (Fokt) and
BOLESKIKE.
CILLIECHRIST, or Kilcheist, an ancient
chapelry in the parish of Urray in Ross, the scene of
one of the bloodiest acts of Highland ferocity and
revenge that history has recorded, commonly known
as the Raid of Cillicchrist. In the early part of the
17th century, a party of Glengarry's men surprised a
numerous body of the Mackenzies, while assembled
at prayer within the walls of Cilliechrist chapel, on
a Sunday morning ; shut them up within the build-
ing, and then set fire to it ; whilst the piper of the
Macdonalds marched round the church, playing a
pibroch, until the shrieks of the miserable victims
were hushed in death. The Macdonalds returned
home in two bands, one of which was overtaken by
the Mackenzies near the burn of Altsay, and nearly
extirpated; while a still more severe retribution over-
took the other party, who, having fled by Inverness,
were overtaken near Torbreck, and shut up in a pub-
lic-house in which they had been refreshing them-
selves, which was set fire to, and the whole party,
37 in number, perished by the same death they had
inflicted on the hapless Mackenzies. The solitary
and beautiful burying-ground of the chapelry is still
in use.
CLACHAN, a village with a post-c ffice, in the
parish of Kilcalmonell, northern part of Kintyre,
Argyleshire. Here is an Independent chapel.
CLACHAN, a village in the parish of Lismore,
Argyleshire.
CLACHAN (Loch), a lake in the eastern part of
Inverness-shire, whose superfluence forms some of
the head-streams of the river Nairn.
CLACHAN OF BALFRON. See Balfeon.
CLACHAN OF CAMPSIE. See Campsie.
CLACHAN OF DALRY. See Daley, Kirkcud-
brightshire.
CLACHAN OF FARR, the kirktown qf the parish
of Farr, Sutherlandshire ; also the vale in which the
Kirktown stands.
CLACHAN OF LUSS. See Luss.
CLACHAN OF ROSENEATH. See Roseneath.
CLACHAN SOUND, a strait of only a few yards
in breadth, separating the island of Seil from the
mainland of Lorn, Argyleshire. Its shores are highly
picturesque. See Seil.
CLACHARRY. See Penningham.
CLACHNABANE, a mountain, 2,370 feet high, in
the parish of Strachan, Kincardineshire. It is one
of the eastern Grampians, and is situated 16 miles
west of Stonehaven. Its summit commands a view
of the east of Scotland from Peterhead to East
Lothian. A mass of bare granite, about 100 feet
high, surmounts it and serves as a landmark to
mariners off the mouth of the Dee. This rock pre-
sents a very imposing appearance, somewhat like
the ruins of an ancient castle, to a person ascending
the east side of the mountain.
CLACHNAHARRY, a fishing village in the par-
ish of Inverness, at the mouth of the Caledonian
canal, about a mile to the west of the town of
Inverness, so called from the vicinity of a rock— in
Gaelic Clach-na-herry, that is, ' the Watchman's
stone,' — on which sentinels used to be placed to give
notice to the burghers of Inverness of the approach
of any body of marauders from Strathglass or Ross-
shire. In 1333, according to Sir Robert Gordon, but
according to Shaw in 1454, and according to Ander-
son in 1378, John Monroe, the tutor of Foulis, in
travelling homeward, on his journey from Edinburgh
to Ross, stopped on a meadow in Stratherdale that
he and his servants might get some repose. While
they were asleep, the owner of the meadow cut off
the tails of their horses. Being resolved to wipe off
this insult, he, immediately on his return home to
Ross, summoned his whole kinsmen and followers,
and, after informing them how he had been used,
craved their aid to revenge the injury. The clan,
of course, complied ; and, having selected 350 of the
best and ablest men among them, he returned to
CLACKMANNAN.
270
CLACKMANNAN.
Stratherdale, which he wasted and spoiled; killed
some of the inhabitants, and carried off their cattle.
In passing the isle of Moy, on his return home,
Mackintosh, the chief of the clan Chattan, being
urged by some person who bore Monroe a grudge,
sent a message to him demanding a share of the
spoil. This was customary among the Highlanders
when a party drove cattle which had been so taken
through a gentleman's land, and the part so exacted
was called a Staoig rathaid, or Staoig creich, that
is, 'a Eoad collop.' Monroe, not being disposed to
quarrel, offered Mackintosh a reasonable share ; but
this he was advised not to accept, and demanded the
half of the booty. Monroe refused to comply with
such an unreasonable demand, and proceeded on his
journey. Mackintosh, determined to enforce compli-
ance, immediately collected his clansmen, and went
in pursuit of Monroe, whom he overtook in the
vicinity of Clachnaharry. As soon as Monroe saw
Mackintosh approaching, he sent home five of his
men to Ferrindonald with the cattle, and prepared
for action. But Mackintosh paid dearly for his rapa-
city and rashness, for he and the greater part of his
men were killed in the conflict. Several of the
Monroes also were slain, and John Monroe himself
was left for dead in the field of battle, and might
have died if the predecessor of Lord Lovat had not
carried him to his house in the neighbourhood, where
he was cured of his wounds. One of his hands was
so mutilated, that he lost the use of it the remainder
of his life, on which account he was afterwards called
John Bac-laimh, or Ciotach. The Monroes had
great advantage of the ground by taking up a posi-
tion among rocks, from which they annoyed the
Mackintoshes with their arrows. Mr. Duff of Muir-
town erected on the highest pinnacle of the rock a
large neat pillar, commemorative of this battle, and
visible all over the surrounding country. The vil-
lage of Clachnaharry is a straggling place, and owes
all its modern interest to the fisheries carried on at
it, and to the works and traffic at the entrance of
the canal. See Caledonian Canal. Population in
1861, 260.
CLACH-NA-OSSIAN. See Almond (The),
Perthshire.
CLACKSHANT. See Stonykibk.
CLACKMANNAN, a parish, containing the post-
town of Clackmannan, the post-office village of
Sauchieor Newtownshaw, and the villages of Kennet,
Westfield, and Forest-Mill, in Clackmannanshire.
It is bounded on the west by Alloa ; on the north by
the Devon, which divides it from Tillicoultry and
Dollar; on the east by the detached district of
Perthshire ; and on the south by the upper part of
the frith of Forth, here about a mile broad, which
divides it from Stirlingshire. Its length south-
westward is 6 miles ; its breadth at the Forth is 2£
miles ; and its greatest breadth is about 4 miles.
The South Devon intersects it, and sometimes rises
so high as to do considerable damage. The sur-
face for about 1J mile from the Forth is rich carse
land, almost level, and elsewhere is undulated and
diversified, rising at the intervals between the
rivers to low hilly height. About 1,600 Scotch
acres are under plantations ; about 400 are waste
land or pasture; and all the rest, amounting to about
5,000, are either regularly or occasionally in tillage.
Coal has been extensively worked for upwards of
two centuries, and is at present mined to the amount
of about 500 tons a-day. Ironstone also is exten-
sively mined ; and the Devon iron-works, situated
on the northern verge of the parish, turn out on the
average about 6,000 tons of pig-iron annually, and
at the same time convert a considerable portion of
it into cast-iron goods. Sandstone of various quali-
ties is worked in several quarries. The total yearly
value of the raw produce of the parish was esti-
mated in 1841 at £75,100,— of which £36,000 were
for coals and £8,000 for ironstone. Assessed pro-
perty in 1843, £13,704 2s/ lOd. The principal
landowners are the Earl of Mansfield, the Earl of
Mar, the Earl of Zetland, Lord Abercromby, Bruce
of Kennet, and Erskine of Aberdoua. The princi-
pal mansions are Schaw-Park, Kennet House, Ken-
netDans, Aberdona, Brucefield, and Kilbagie. There
are in the parish a distillery-work occupying about
seven acres at Kilbagie, two saw-mills on the South
Devon, and a very extensive brick and tile work.
The parish is traversed southward by private rail-
ways from the Devon iron-works to Clackmannan
Pow and the harbour of Alloa, and westward by
the public railway from Dunfermline to Stirling;
and it has a station on the latter for Clackman-
nan. Population in 1831, 4,266; in 1861, 4,425.
Houses, 779.
This parish is in the presbytery of Stirling, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Earl of
Zetland. Stipend, £2 84 0s. 9d.; glebe, £16. Unap-
propriated teinds, £241 16s. 3d. Schoolmaster's sal-
ary, £34 4s. 4£d., with £1 1 fees. The parish church
was built in 1815, and contains 1,250 sittings.
There is a chapel of ease at Sauchie, which was
built in 1841-2. There are at Clackmannan a Free
church with an attendance of 120, and an United
Presbyterian church, with an attendance of 100.
The yearly receipts of the former in 1853, amounted
to £173 lis. 4d.; and the latter was built in 1790,
and contains 450 sittings. There are six non-par-
ochial schools.
The Town of Clackmannan stands on the ridge
to the south of the South Devon, 2 miles east by
south of Alloa, 3 J north-west of Kincardine, and 29
north-west by west of Edinburgh. This place was
for many generations the seat of the chief of the
Braces. The earliest family known to record who
inherited the lordship of Amiandale bore the name
of Annan ; the last heiress of it, Agnes Annan, was
married to one of the first of the Bruces who settled
in Scotland ; and John de Bruce, third son of Ro-
bert, one of the Earls of Annandale, came, at some
date which has not been precisely recorded, into the
possession of the lands around the site of Clack-
mannan. Hence the probable origin of the name
Clackmannan, which may be a corruption of " the
Clachan of Annan, or " Clachan- Annan," the kirk-
town of Annan. King David II. probably resided
here during the first part of his reign ; and he made
a chartered gift of it, a short time before his death,
to his kinsman Robert Bruce. King Robert Bruce
also resided here some time previous to the battle
of Bannockburn, and is said to have built a tower
or keep which still remains, and is now the property
of the Earl of Zetland. This tower is 79 feet high,
has a spiral stair leading to its summit, contains a
variety of apartments, and was formerly protected
by a strong encompassing wall and by a fosse on
the side next the town. Till lately the sword and
helmet of King Robert Bruce were kept here, but
they are now at Broomhall, in the possession of the
Earl of Elgin, the most direct existing representa
tive of the ancient Bruces. Adjoining the tower
stood the old mansion, the residence of the lineal
descendants of these Braces till toward the close of
the last century, when the direct line became ex-
tinct. Here resided the old Jacobite lady, Mrs.
Bruce of Clackmannan, who knighted the poet
Burns with the sword of King Robert Brace.
The town of Clackmannan is situated on an emi-
nence gently rising out of the carse plain to the
height of 190 feet above the level of the Forth. Oil
CLACKMANNAN POW.
271
CLACKMANNANSHIRE.
each side ol the town the ground has a gradual de-
scent ; but, towards the west, where the old tower
is placed, it is bold and rocky. The surrounding
scenery, as beheld from the tower, is exceedingly
picturesque and beautiful. To tho west are seen
Alloa, Stirling, St. Ninians, and all the country as
far as Benlomond; on the north the prospect is
bounded by the Ochils ; on the south and east are
the fertile fields of Stirlingshire, and the towns of
Falkirk, Linlithgow, and Kincardine ; while the
foreground is filled by the Forth, gradually expand-
ing into a wide sheet of water like a large inland
lake. The principal street of the town is broad and
spacious ; but many of the bouses are mean. In
the middle of the street stands a nun which was
once the prison and town-house. The present
county-ball is of modern erection, and stands imme-
diately north of the town. The parish church is a
handsome structure, with a tower of considerable
height, and occupies so commanding a position as
to be visible and conspicuous at a great distance.
Clackmannan is but partly the comity town of
Clackmannanshire, all the law courts being held at
Alloa ; and it is also thrown greatly into the shade
by that town, so as to be made quite subordinate in
almost all matters of trade. The town pays feu-
duty to the proprietor of the estate of Clackmannan.
Fail's are held in June and September. Ample
facilities of communication are enjoyed by the Dun-
fermline and Stirling railway, and by means of the
vicinity of Alloa. Population in 1841, 1,077; in
1801, 1,151.
CLACKMANNAN POW, a harbour on the north
side of the Forth, at the boundary between the par-
ishes of Clackmannan and Alloa, Clackmannanshire.
It is formed by the mouth of the South Devon, and
was much improved in 1772 by Sir Lawrence Dun-
das. Its mean depth of water is 10 feet at the usual
shipping-place, and 20 feet at the meeting with the
Forth. See Alloa (Town of) and Clackmannan
(Parish of).
CLACKMANNANSHIRE, the smallest county
in Scotland. It is bounded, on the north, by Perth-
shire, and by the detached portion of Stirlingshire
which forms the parish of Alva ; on the east, by
Perthshire, Fifeshire, and the detached district of
Perthshire which forms the parishes of Tulliallan
and Culross ; on the south, by the upper part of the
frith of Forth, which divides it from Stirlingshire ;
and on the west, by Stirlingshire and Perthshire.
Its length from east to west is 10 miles ; its breadth
from north to south is 8 miles, and its area is about
48 square miles or 30,720 acres, — of which 22,000
are cultivated, 5,000 are uncultivated, and 3,720 are
nearly unprofitable.
The surface rises from the Forth to the parts of
the Ochil hills around the sources and the southern
headstreams of the Devon. The banks of the Forth
are flat and rich ; and the Ochils afford pasturage
for sheep not to be surpassed in Scotland. The
Forth upon the south, and the Ochil bills upon the
north, run in a direction diverging from each other.
To the southward of the mountains lies the beauti-
ful vale of the lower Devon. Betwixt this and the
foot of the mountains, the soil is in general light
and of a fine quality, but not very deep, being of a
gravelly bottom. The baughs of the Devon are
rich and fertile ; of a deep soil, but with a mixture
of sand. South of the Devon the country begins to
rise, and the soil is less valuable, as it possesses
much of that elay scarcely penetrable by water
which is so generally found in districts containing
coal and freestone. The country descends gradually
thence to the flat tract along the Forth ; and all
this is a most enchanting level of rich carse lands
of the finest sort of alluvial soil, and lying within
the most beautiful part of the foreground in the ex-
tensive view from Stirling castle towards the east.
No county in Scotland is better supplied with
water than Clackmannan. The Devon, from its
source in the parish of Blackford in Perthshire, to
where it falls into the Forth, at the village of
Cambus, presents a succession of delightful scenery.
After running a course of more than 26 miles, it
mingles its pure and limpid waters with the Forth,
not more than 6 miles in a straight line from i s
source. See Devon (The). In the lower part of
the county is another river called the South Devon,
and sometimes the Black Devon, from the gloomy
density of its waters. This stream rises in the
hills of Saline, in the county of Fife, and flowing
westward, in a direction nearly paraUcl to the
Devon, falls into the Forth between Alloa and
Clackmannan. There is a small stream which runs
into the Devon, called Gloomingside bum, in which
no trouts have ever been discovered, although it
has fine streams and pools. Live trouts have been
put into it ; but it does not appear that they were
capable of living there.
There is rather a deficiency of wood in the coun-
ty. The ancient forest of Clackmannan has long
since disappeared. About seventy years ago, at-
tempts to cover the hills to a considerable height
were made, which, in time, may probably succeed,
and prove a great ornament to the country; but, on
account of its elevated situation, the progress of
vegetation is here remarkably slow.
The low country of Clackmannanshire abounds
with coal in every part; freestone and whinstone arc
also abundant. In the Ochils have been wrought
at various times valuable ores of silver, lead, copper,
cobalt, ironstone, and antimony. Many rich speci-
mens of septaria have also been found. Coal is
very extensively wrought. Pebbles, agates, and a
few topazes, are sometimes discovered amongst the
rubbish which is washed from the hills.
The climate of Clackmannanshire is various.
Snow seldom lies on the low grounds of Logie, or in
the vale of Devon ; although the case is very different
upon the hills. There is a remarkable spot in the
Ochils, above the house of Alva, so much shaded
that snow sometimes Hes on it until the month of
June. The rain that falls is seldom copious, and,
on account of the gravelly bottom in the parishes of
Tillicoultry and Dollar, does little hurt. The cli-
mate of the high lands is considerably colder and
wetter than that of the valleys ; and the moisture
is likewise more severely felt, as the bottom is a
retentive till. In the parishes of Alloa and Clack-
mannan, the climate is pleasant and dry as well as
warm.
Every modern improvement in agriculture has
been adopted here ; and the high state of cultivation
over the whole face of the country is a proof of the
skill and industry of the farmers. Beans are much
cultivated, and are generally planted in drills;
sometimes they are sown broadcast, with a mixture
of pease. In this district and its neighbourhood
are a considerable number of small feus held in per-
petuity. About the time of the reformation from
popery, it became, in many parts of the country, a
sort of fashion for great proprietors to grant feus of
considerable portions of their estates. Some pro-
prietors did this to conciliate the attachment of
their vassals ; others, from generosity, were willing
to deprive their successors of the power to expel
from around them the faithful adherents to the for-
tunes of their family ; while a third class were
tempted by a considerable pecuniary payment which
the vassals had found means to accumulate. The
CLACKMANNANSHIRE.
272
CLATT.
family of Argyle, in particular, possessed property
in this neighbourhood, and made perpetual grants
to their vassals in the manner alluded to. One feu
in the parish of Dollar, extending to no less than
200 Scottish acres, is held under this condition, that
the feuar or tenant shall be bound to slaughter all
the cattle that may be wanted for the use of the
family of Argyle in their residence of Castle-Camp-
bell. About the . end of the 16th, or beginning of
the 17th century, Lord Colvil, then proprietor of
the estate of Tillicoultry, divided about four-fifths
of the arable land into 40 feus, each of which con-
tained, on an average, about 30 Scotch acres. Most
of these tenures were converted into feus in the
year 1605. What was called the Mains of Dollar
was divided into 8 oxengates, each of which con-
tained from 30 to 45 Scotch acres. In the carse,
the farms are not large, containing only about 80
or 100 acres each.
The towns of Clackmannanshire are Clackmannan,
Alloa, Tillicoultry, and Dollar. The chief villages
are Newtonshaw, Sauchie, Kennet, Tullibody, Hot-
ton-Square, Coalyland, Cambus, Coalsnaughton, De-
vonside, Menstrie, Craigmill, and Abbey. The prin-
cipal mansions are Alloa Park, the Earl of Mar;
Shaw Park, the Earl of Mansfield; Tullibody
House, Lord Abereromby; Kennet House; Tilli-
coultry House ; Harvieston ; and Dollarfield. The
principal feudal remains are Clackmannan tower,
Alloa tower, and Castle-Campbell. The chief muni-
ments of trade are collieries, iron-works, tileries,
distilleries, breweries, and woollen factories.
Clackmannanshire contains only the four parishes
of Clackmannan, Alloa, Dollar, and Tillicoultry,
part of the parish of Logie, and perhaps also part of
the parish of Stirling. See Abbey. Two of these
six parishes are in the presbytery of Dunblane,
four in the presbytery of Stirling, and all in the
synod of Perth and Stirling. There are in Clack-
mannanshire seven Free churches, four United Pres-
byterian churches, two Independent chapels, and
one Episcopalian chapel. In 1837, there were in the
county 4 parochial schools, attended by 187 scholars,
1 5 non-parochial schools, attended by 905 scholars,
and 1 6 other schools, the attendance at which was
not reported.
The Stirling and Dunfermline railway passes
right through the county, and the Scottish Central
railway impinges on its northern border. The
other means of communication by roads and by the
frith of Forth are abundant. See Alloa. All the
law courts are held at Alloa, — the sheriff county
court every Wednesday during session, the sheriff
small debt court every ordinary court day, the com-
missary court as required dining session, and the
quarter sessions on the first Tuesday of March, May,
And August, and last Tuesday of October. The
jail of Stirling is also the jail of Clackmannanshire.
The prison assessment in this county is 2Jd., the
rogue-money 2d., and the police assessment 1 Jd. per
pound on the real rent. The valued rent in 1674,
was £26,482 Scots; the annual value of real pro-
perty as assessed in 1843, was £51,522; and the
real rent of heritable property as valued in 1850,
was £48,714 16s. Clackmannanshire unites with
Kinross-shire in sending one member to parliament;
but for this purpose, by provision of the Reform
bill, it comprises also "the Stirlingshire parish of
Alva, the Perthshire portion of the parish of Logie,
and the detached district of Perthshire, comprehend-
ing the parishes of Tulliallan and Culross. Par-
liamentary constituency in 1853, 1,149. Population
in 1801, 10,853; in 1811, 12,010; in 1821, 13,263;
in 1831, 14,729; in 1841, 19,155; in 1861, 33,543.
Inhabited houses in 1861. 2,996; uninhabited, 143;
building, 22. In 1849 the number of criminal
offenders was 80; the number of persons on the
poor roll was 673; and the amount of money raised
for the poor was £2,809 10s. 5d.
CLADlSH, an inn on the banks of Loch- Awe, 7
miles from Inverary, Argyleshire.
CLAIR INCH, a small island on the south side
of Inch-Cailleach, in the Stirlingshire part of Loch -
lomond.
CLAIRTOWN (St.). See Slnclalktows.
CLANYARD. See Kibkmaiden.
CLAONAIG. See Saddel.
CLAONARY, a village in the parish of Inverary,
Argyleshire.
CLAREBRAND, a village in the parish of
Crossmichael, Kirkcudbrightshire. Population in
1851, 54.
CLARENCEFIELD, a village with a post-office
in the parish of Ruthwell, Dumfries-shire. Popu-
lation, 86.
CLARKSTON, a village in the parish of Cath-
cart, Renfrewshire. It stands on the road from
Glasgow to Eaglesham, near the left bank of the
White Cart, 4 miles north of Eaglesham. Popu-
lation, 180.
CLARKSTON, or Cleekston, a thriving village
in the vicinity of Airdrie, parish of New Monkland,
Lanarkshire. Here is a chapel of ease, to which
formerly was attached a quoad sacra parochial terri-
tory, comprising the villages of Arden and Balloch-
ney, and containing a population of 4,526.
CLASHBENNIE. See Ebrol.
CLASHCARNOCH, a small harbour on the north
coast of the parish of Durness, 3 miles east of Cape
Wrath, Sutherlandshire. It has a slip for boats,
and is a point of communication with the neigh-
bouring lighthouse, hut lies much exposed to the
north.
CLASHMORE, a hamlet with a post-office in the
parish of Dornoch, in Sutherlandshire. It is the
nearest point to the Mickle ferry, which, before the
existence of Bonar bridge, was the only practicable
mode of reaching Sutherland and Caithness from
the south. The mail-coach here leaves the Skibc
road for Dornoch. There is a good inn here. A
fair for cattle is held on the Monday after the first
Wednesday of May.
CLASHNESSIE, a bay and a village in the parish
of Assynt, Sutherlandshire. The bay indents the
north coast of the parish ; and the village stands at
the head of the bay, 5^ miles north-west of Lochin-
ver. Population, 194.
CLATCHARD CRAG. See Abdie.
CLATHEY, a village nearly in the centre of the
parish of Gask, Perthshire. Population, 120.
CLATT, a parish, containing a village of its own
name, in the western extremity of the district of Ga-
rioch, Aberdeenshire. Its post-town is Old Rayne ;
and it is bounded by the parishes of Kinnethmont,
Leslie, Tullynessle, Auchindoir, and Rhynie. Its
length eastward is about 4 miles; and its breadth
is from 2 to 3 miles. The north-west boundary is
traced by the Bogie; and most of the interior is
drained eastward by the head-streams of the Gadie.
Part of the Suie and Coreen range of hills occupies
the southern border; some rising-grounds occur in
the north-west; and all the rest of the surface is
a plain lying at an elevation of about 600 feet above
sea-level. About 1,800 acres are undivided com-
mon; about 250 are in pasture; about 200 are under
wood; and most of the remainder, amounting to
about 2,800, are regularly or occasionally in til-
lage. The only landowners are Gordon of Knockes-
poch, who has a mansion in the parish, and Sir A.
Leith Hay of Rannes. Granite abounds, but only
CLAYBAKNS.
273
CLOCI-I POINT.
one quarry is worked, Bcal rental in 18o4, £3,015.
Tho military road from Edinburgh to Huntly tra-
n orses tlie parish. The Tillage of Clatt stands lOmilcs
south of Huntly. It was made a burgh of barony
in 1501 by Jamos IV., and had once a market-cross
and a weekly market, but is now litllo better than a
hamlet, with two annual fairs on the 3d Tuesday ol
May, and the 3d Wednesday of November. Popu-
lation of the village in 1842, about 90. Population
of the parish in 1831, 535; in 1861, 511. Houses,
86. Assessed property in I860, £3,333— This par-
ish—formerly a rectory, and a prebend belonging to
the chapter o"f Aberdeen— is in the presbytery of Al-
ford and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £134 16s. 6d.; glebe, £9. Schoolmaster's
salary now is £50. See Hardgate.
CLATTO. See Kettle and Andrews (St.).
CLAUCHAN. See Claciian.
CLAVA. See Cboy.
CLAVEN HILLS. Sec Dundonald.
CLAVEEHOUSE. See Mains and Stratii-
martine.
CLAYBARNS, a village in the parish of New-
town, Edinburghshire. Population, 187.
CLAYHOLE, a village in the parish of Leswalt,
Wigtonshire, separated from the town of Stranraer
only by an ideal line, and included within that
town's parliamentary boundary. Population in
1851, 462.
CLAYHOUSE, a village in the parish of Borth-
wick, Edinburghshire.
CLAYSHAXK. See Stonykirk.
CLEAEBUEN, a quondam village in the parish
of Duddingston, Edinburghshire, once famous for
its breweries, but now quite extinct.
CLEGHOEN. See Lanark.
CLEISH, a parish, containing the post-office sta-
tion of Blairadain, the post-office village of Cleish,
and two other villages, in Kinross-shire. It is
bounded on the north by Fossaway and Kinross
parishes; on the east by the parishes of Portmoak
and Ballingray ; on the south by the parishes of
Beath and Dunfermline; and on the west by the
parish of Saline. It is of an oblong form, stretching
nearly due west from the low heights on the east
which divide Kinross-shire from Fifeshire; and is
6 J miles in length, by about 1 in average breadth;
and contains about 7£ square miles. A range of
green but moorish hills, bearing the name of the
parish, and of considerable elevation, divide it from
Dunfermline. Dumglow, the highest, is 1,215 feet
above the level of the sea, and commands a very
extensive and beautiful prospect; and three others,
called the Ingans, are respectively, 1,060, 1,048, and
1,030. The higher lands are in pasturage; and the
lower, though of only middle-rate soil, and from
380 to 500 feet above the level of the sea, are in
tillage. Springs and rills are abundant and good,
pouring their grateful treasures past the door of
nearly every dwelling. Four lakes, the largest
about 1J mile in circumference, enrich the hill-
country with a store of perches, pikes, and eels,
and with a few trouts. The Gairney carries the
waters of these lakes to Loch Leven. It flows along
the northern boundary of the parish for about 2 J
miles, separating it from Fossaway and Kinross.
Excellent freestone exists in great plenty, and
affords material for the best houses and bridges in
Kinross-shire and its coterminous districts. Lime-
stone is quarried at Searhill. Whinstone suitable
for dykes and roads is abundant. Coal was for-
merly wrought to a considerable extent on the estate
of Blaii'adam ; but for many years past has been ne-
glected. On the top of Dumglow, and of other hills,
are traces of ancient forts or camps, which are sup-
I.
posed to have been part of a chain of posts for do-
fending the Eoman conquests ; and near these for.
tifications have been found several urns containing
human bones and pieces of charcoal. A short dis-
tance from the parish- church stood a rock called
' The Lecture stane,' which was used, in the days
of popery, as a support for the coffin during the
reading of the burial-service at funerals. At the
east end of the parish, a stone, inserted in a bridge,
bears an inscription indicating the road beneath it
to have been that by which Queen Mary fled from
Lochleven castle. Formerly, on what is now the
farm-stead of Gaimey-bridge, stood the school-
house in which Michael Bruce, the Kirke White of
Scotland, taught a school; and within a few yards
of the same spot stood the public-bouse in which
the fathers of the Secession held their first meeting.
The parish has railway stations at Blairadam and
Cleish-Eoad. There are thirteen estates ; but the
chief are Cleish and Blairadam. See Blairadam.
Population in 1831, 681 ; in 1861, 649. Houses, 134.
Assessed property in 1865, £6,857.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kinross
and synod of Fife. Patron, Young of Cleish. Sti-
pend, £156 16s. 4d. ; glebe, £14. Schoolmaster's
salary now is £55. The church was built in 1832,
and is remarkably neat, and in a beautiful situation,
embosomed in plantations at the base of the southern
hills, and looking down over sylvan slopes upon the
vale of Kinross. There are two private schools.
CLELAND. See Bothwell.
CLEEKINGTON. See Habdington.
CLEEKSTON. See Clarkston.
CLEEMISTON. See Corstoephine.
CLETT (The). See Thurso.
CLEUGH (The). See Sorn.
■CLEUGHBEAE, a hamlet in the parish of
Mousewald, Dumfries-shire.
CLIFF LOCH. See Unst.
CLIFF SOUND. See Shetland.
CLIFTON, a village near Tyndram, in the parish
of Killin, Perthshire. There is a lead mine, he-
longing to the Marquis of Breadalbane, on the top
of a hill in its vicinity; and in 1839, after this had
been for some time worked, for some time abandoned,
and again resumed, there were employed in it up-
wards of 100 men under the direction of a few Ger
man miners. Population, 159.
CLIFTON, a quondam village, formerly a cha-
pelry, in the parish of Morebattle in Eoxburghshire ;
10 miles south-east of Kelso. Clifton bill is a beau-
tiful eminence on the east side of the Beaumont.
CLIFTON HALL, an estate in the parish of
Kirkliston, and on the western border of Edinburgh-
shire, 2 miles west of Eatho. The Union canal
passes through it. A mammoth's tusk and a good
many old coins have been dug up in it. Here also
is the hamlet of Clifton with about 40 inhabitants.
CLINT HILL. See Berwickshire.
CLINTWOOD. See Eoxburghshire.
CL1SHEIM, a mountain in the northern division
of the isle of Harris, the loftiest in the Outer He-
brides. Dr. Macculloch calls it Clisseval, and esti-
mates its height at 2,700 feet, which is certainly too
low, if his estimate of the altitude of Langa, in its
neighbourhood, at 2,407 feet, be correct; for dish-
em! is, apparently at least, 800 feet higher. Mr.
Macgillivray, in the second volume of the Highland
Society's Prize Essays, has finely described the
view from this mountain.
CLOCHNABANE. See Clachnabane.
CLOCHODEICK STONE. See Kilbaechan.
CLOCH POINT, a small promontory in the
parish of Innerkip, 2f miles south-west of Kempoch
Point, Renfrewshire. The frith of Clyde suddenly
CLOCKSBRIGGS.
274
CLOSEBURN.
assumes here a southerly direction. The jurisdic-
tion of the Glasgow water baillie terminates here.
A regular ferry is maintained between this point
and the village of Dunoon. A lighthouse was built
here in 1797, and is one of the most important
beacons on the Clyde. It is a circular tower rising
to the height of 76 feet above the water, and dis-
playing a white fixed light. The view from Cloch
point is very brilliant, embracing a great range of
the frith, together with the Cowal mountains,
Dunoon, and the wooded peninsula of Roseneath.
CLOCKSBRIGGS, a station on the Arbroath and
Forfar railway, between Auldbar and Forfar.
CLOFFIN BURN. See Moffat.
CLOLA. See Deer.
CLONCAIRN CASTLE. See Kibkmichael.
CLOSEBURN, a parish, containing a post-office
village of the same name, in Nithsdale, Dumfries-
shire. It is bounded on the north by Lanarkshire,
and on other sides by the parishes of Kirkpatrick-
Juxta, Kirkmahoe, Keir, and Morton. Its length
southward is 10 miles, and its greatest breadth is
7J miles. The Nith runs on the south-western
boundary ; the Cample on most of the western boun-
dary, and the Ae on part of the eastern boundary;
and a number of indigenous streams run severally
to these rivers. The surface near the Nith is low
valley-ground, with a fine rich loamy soil ; farther
up, it is higher, yet but slightly diversified, and has
a light dry soil ; and farther still it expands drearily
in a great tract of moorland, partly reclaimed and
partly irreclaimable, until it terminates among the
mountain-masses of the Southern Highlands, at the
watershed between Nithsdale and Clydesdale. The
highest summit is Queexsbeeky: which see. In
1834 there were 5,683 acres in tillage, 1,500 under
wood, and 23,006 in pasture, — 1,428 of which were
arable. The grandest architectural feature in the
jarish is the baronial mansion, Closeburn-Hall, a
arge splendid Grecian edifice, figuring beautifully
in the landscape. The most remarkable of the in-
digenous streams — one noted for its romantic fea-
tures— is the Crichup. This rises in a moss near
the northern extremity of the parish. Not far from
its source, it forms a very beautiful cascade, called
1 the Grey Mare's tail,' by falling over a precipice
of about 80 or 90 feet in height, and almost perpen-
dicular. About halfa-mile below this, the water
has, in the course of ages, hollowed out to itself a
strait passage through a mass of red freestone,
forming a peculiarly romantic linn. This linn,
from top to bottom, is upwards of 100 feet; and
though 20 deep, it is yet so strait at the top, that
one might easily leap across it, were it not for the
tremendous prospect below, and the noise of the
water running its dark course, and by its deep mur-
murings affrighting the imagination. " Inaccessi-
ble in a great measure to real beings," says the Old
Statistical Account, " this linn was considered as
the habitation of imaginary ones; and at the en-
trance into it, there was a curious cell or cave,
called the Elfs kirk, where according to the super-
stition of the times, the imaginary inhabitants of
the linn were supposed to hold their meetings.
This cave proving a good free-stone quarry, has
lately been demolished, for the purpose of building
houses, and from being the abode of elves, has been
converted into habitations for men. In the limes of
persecution, the religious flying from their persecu-
tors, found an excellent hiding-place in Crichup
linn; and there is a seat in form of a chair, cut out
by nature in the rock, which having been the_ re-
treat of a shoemaker m those times, has ever since
borne the name of ' the Sutor's seat.' Nothing can
he more striking than the appearance of this linn
Is
from its bottom. The darkness of the place, upon
which the sun never shines, — the ragged rocks,
rising over one's head, and seeming to meet at the
top, with here and there a blasted tree, bursting
from the crevices, — the rumbling of the water fall-
ing from rock to rock, and forming deep pools, —
together with some degree of danger to the specta-
tor, whilst he surveys the striking objects that pre-
sent themselves to his view, — all naturally tend to
work upon the imagination. Hence many fabulous
stories are told, and perhaps were once believed,
concerning this curious linn." Sir Walter Scott has
taken this place for the prototype of the haunts of
Balfour of Burly while under hiding. Sandstone
and limestone are extensively worked. The sand-
stone is laminated, and serves for paving and slat-
ing. The limeworks were begun by Sir James
Kirkpatrick in 1772, and prosecuted with vigour by
the present proprietors, and have proved most bene-
ficial to the district, although the nearest coal-pits
are at Sanquhar, 14 miles distant, and the coal
generally used is brought a distance of 30 miles.
Four kilns are in operation; and the average yearly
turn-out from them is about 320,000 bushels. The
total yearly value of the whole produce of the
parish, agricultural and mineral, was estimated in
1834 at £40,300. The castle of Closeburn, formerly
belonging to the family of Kirkpatrick, but which
passed from them in 1783, when the estate was pur-
chased by Mr. Menteath, is an ancient building,
surrounded by a fosse which formerly communicated
with a small lake now drained. This very ancient
fortalice is a square tower about 50 feet high, con-
sisting of a ground floor, and three series of vaulted
apartments. It is still inhabited. Grose has given
a drawing of it. Near this castle is a mineral well
which has been of service in scrofulous cases. It
is impregnated with sulphur. Upon the farm of
Kirkpatrick were the remains of an old chapel and
burying-ground. There is also near the village of
Closebum a chalybeate spring of considerable
strength. The road from Glasgow to Dumfries and
the Glasgow and South-western railway traverse
the lower part of the parish ; and the latter has a
station in it. The village of Closeburn stands on
the Glasgow and Dumfries road 2i miles south-
south-east of Thornhill. Population of the village
in 1851, 123. Population of the parish in 1831,
1,680; in 1861, 1,651. Houses, 285. Assessed pro-
perty in 1860, £12,881.
This parish, with which that of Dalgarno was
incorporated in 1697, is in the presbytery of Pen-
pont, and synod of Dumfries. Patron, Douglas
Baird of Closebum. Stipend, £234 19s. 3d.; glebe,
£19. The principal school of the parish is one
which, in honour of its founder, is called the school
of Wallacehall. John Wallace, merchant in Glas-
gow, a native of Closeburn, in the year 1723, morti-
fied £1,600 for the purpose of erecting this school.
The presbytery of Penpont were appointed trustees
for the management of the fund, judging of the
qualifications of the teachers, and watching over
the interests of the school. The only hereditary
patron is Wallace of Kelly. But originally five
patrons were appointed to nominate the rector of
the school, viz., John Wallace of Elderslie, Thomas
Wallace of Cairnhill, and Michael Wallace, mer-
chant in Glasgow, three brothers, the minister of
Closeburn, and the town-clerk of Glasgow, for the
time being. In the election of a rector, it is recom-
mended to the patrons to give a preference to one of
the name of Wallace if equally qualified. Of the
money mortified by Mr. Wallace, £200 was laid out
in building a school-house and dwelling-house for
the rector, and in purchasing 5 acres of ground con
CLOVA.
275
CLUNIE.
tiguous to the school, for the rector's use;_ £1,145
was laid out in purchasing lands at some distance ;
and the remainder was applied towards enclosing
the land and enlarging the rector's house. The
branches of education which the deed of mortifica-
tion requires to be taught at this school are, Eng-
lish, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, Latin and
Greek. But besides these, mathematics, French, Ger-
man, and Italian are taught. The rector is likewise
obliged to pay £5 a-year to a person named by the
minister, to teach English in a remote part of the
parish. These schools are free to the children of
parishioners. There are also four private schools.
The parish church was built in 1741, and repaired
about 1832, and contains 500 sittings. There is a
Free church ; and the yearly sum raised in con-
nexion with it in 1865 was £111 7s. 7d.
CLOUDEN (The). See Cluden (The).
CLOUP-VOE. See Yell.
CLOVA, an ancient parish, now annexed to the
parish of Cortachy in Forfarshire. The church was
rebuilt in 1730, and is about 9 miles distant from
the church of Cortachy. The inhabited part of
Clova is about 4 miles in length, and its greatest
breadth is little more than a mile. It is surrounded
on three sides by the Binchinnan branch of the
Grampian mountains, which are hei'e of great
height, and exhibit a scene of much beauty and
grandeur, especially when contrasted with the de-
lightful valley at their base. Loch Brandy is about
1^ mile in circumference, and abounds with pike
and trout. On a little eminence near the church
are the remains of an ancient castle, formerly the
residence of a family of the name of Ogilvy. See
Cortachy.
CLOVEN CRAGS. See Beglie (Wicks of).
CLOVENFORDS, or Whytbaxklee, a hamlet in
the parish of Stow.
CLOVEN STONE. See Moy and Dalarossie.
CLOWBUEN. See Pettinain.
CLUANADH. See Clunie (The).
CLUANY (Loch), a featureless sheet of water,
about 6 miles long, lying across the boundary be-
tween Inverness-shire and Ross-shire, on the road
from Invermorriston to Kyle-Rkee, about 25 miles
from the former place, and 23 from the latter.
There is a small inn here.
CLUDEN, a small village in the parish of Holy-
wood, Dumfries-shire, 3 miles from Dumfries.
There are large flour-mills here.
CLUDEN (The), a small river of Dumfries-shire
and Kirkcudbrightshire. It is formed by the con-
fluence of the Cairn and the Glenisland about 1}
mile south-west of Dunscore church ; and it flows
about 8 miles east-south-eastward, partly across
Dunscore and Holywood, but chiefly aiong the
boundary between Dumfries-shire and Kirkcud-
brightshire ; and falls into the Nith at Lincluden
Abbey, 1J mile north of Dumfries. It figures in
our pastoral poetry as " lonely Cluden's hermit
stream;" but nevertheless has a soft and ornate
character, connected far more with fields and woods
and lawns than with sheep-walks. The Old Water
of Cluden which falls into its right side 5J miles
above Lincluden, and is a finely picturesque stream
with a small romantic cascade, perhaps lives in the
imagination of poets much more than the true
Cluden. The latter is an excellent trouting-stream.
CLUNES, a station on the Highland railway, 7i
miles west of Inverness.
CLUNIE, a parish, containing the post-office
station of Fometh, in the district of Stormont,
Perthshire. It is bounded by Kirkmichael, Blair-
gowrie, Kinloch, Lethendy, Caputh, and Dunkelcl.
Its length southward is 9 miles; and its breadth is
4 miles. The surface is very diversified, comprises
part of the lower Grampians and a small part of
Strathmore, ranges from about 1,800 to about 150
feet of altitude above sea-level, and comprehends
between 2,000 and 3,000 acres of arable land, and
upwards of 8,000 acres of entire area. The highest
ground is Benachally, which is partly in Caputh.
Hundreds of acres not long ago waste are now cov-
ered with thriving plantations of larch and pine.
The soil of the arable grounds, though generally
light and gravelly, yields very good crops, not only
of oats and barley, but also of wheat. A romantic
mass of trap, about 600 feet in height, is called the
Craig of Clunie. A grand feature of the parish is
Loch Clunie, which will be described in next article.
The parish is drained by some considerable burns,
as the Lornty, the Droothy, the Buckny, and the
Lunan. The Lomty flows from the loch of Bena-
chally; runs about 6 miles east-south-east through
the hilly parts of the parishes of Clunie, Kinloch,
and Blairgowrie ; and falls into the Ericht above
the Caith, a curious fall of the river, a little above
the village of Blairgowrie. The Droothy rises from
the moss of Benachally, separates the barony of
Laighwood from the forest of Clunie and the barony
of Forneth, and after a rapid course of about three
miles to the south-east, empties itself into the
Lunan. The Buckny takes its rise from Loch-na-
chat, and falling to the south-east between the
mountains of Benachally and Duchray, forms the
Dow loch ; thence, increased by the springs of the
Dow loch, it thunders down a deep, narrow, rocky
den, covered with wild wood, called the Den of
Eyechip, and separating the parishes of Caputh and
Clunie, enters the latter in the park of Laighwood,
where it unites with the Lunan. The Lunan is by
far the most considerable stream in the parish.
Collected from different sources in the Grampians,
a little to the north of Dunkeld, it proceeds east-
ward, and forms the lochs of Craiglash, of Lows, of
Butterstone, of Clunie, and of Drumellie. From
this last, it directs its course to the south-cast, and
passing by the Roman camp at Craighill in Caputh,
it joins the Isla, at a point about 2 miles north-east
of the junction of the Isla and the Tay. The
course of the Lunan is about 12 miles, and some-
what resembles a bended bow. The trouts of the
Lunan are excellent ; in point of size, form, and fla-
vour, they are much superior to those of the hill-
brooks described above. This is doubtless owing
to its waters being deeper, warmer, and better shel-
tered, and to its passing over rich, clayey, and
marly bottoms. It is difficult, however, to angle
upon the Lunan in many places, particularly above
the loch of Clunie, on account of the natural wood
overhanging the stream. The district is well-
adapted to the researches of the botanist. There
were formerly great natural forests, on tracts
which are now moors There are two mineral
springs, — one at Milton of Clunie, and the other a
little to the east of Bogmile, — valued for their anti-
scorbutic qualities. The minerals already known
are quartz, whinstone, granite, freestone, and bar-
ytes. Limestone is found in one place, but the
want of fuel prevents its being quarried. There is
a vein of fine blue slate interspersed with large
quantities of copper pyrites ; and a deep peat-moss
on the very summit of Benachally. There are ves-
tiges of 5 religious houses, and of several military
stations and fortified places, and a number of cairns
and tumuli, which are said to mark the places where
the Romans under Agricola and the Caledonians
engaged, as described by Tacitus. Forneth, on
the north-west side of the loch of Clunie, and 4
miles from Blairgowrie, and Gourdie, about 1J mile
CLUNIE.
276
CLUNY.
south-east of Clunie castle, are elegant seats. The
parish is traversed by the road from Blairgowrie to
Logierait. Population in 1831, 944; in 1861, 534.
Houses, 138. Assessed property in 1843, £7,785
17s. 9d. ; in 1866, £7,695 6s. lid.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, and to which
certain portions of Caputh parish were annexed,
quoad sacra, in 1728, is in the presbytery of Dun-
keld, and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patrons,
the Duke of Athole and the Earl of Airlie. Stipend,
£173 Os. 2d. ; glebe, £6. Schoolmaster's salary now
is £45, with about £12 fees. The parish church is a
Gothic building with a handsome tower. It was
erected in 1840, and contains about 600 sittings.
There is a Free church, with an attendance of from
350 to 400: sum raised in 1865, £123 Is. ljd. There
is also a Free church school.
CLUNIE (Looh), a lake in the above parish,
about 4 miles south-east of a small loch on the nor-
thern side of Benachally, and 700 feet lower in
elevation. It is 2£ miles in circumference, and 84
feet in depth. About 200 yards from its western
shore is a beautiful little island on which is an old
castle, formerly the residence of the Earls of Airlie,
built by George Brown, Bishop of Dunkeld, in the
16th century. The walls are 9 feet thick; and
around the verge of this island are sprinkled a few
old ash-trees and planes, which have withstood the
storms of some hundred years, yet still continue to
vegetate. These trees have something venerably
grotesque in their appearance. The trunk of some
of the planes separates and unites again ; as do also
some of the larger branches. The trees in some
places diverge considerably from the land, leaning
across the water, over which their aged arms em-
brace ; and the roots of the planes are incorporated
with those of the ashes, as if they were determined
to stand and fall together. In the sultry heats of
summer these trees throw a cool refreshing umbrage
over the island. The island itself is a plain carpet
of green, interspersed with a few flowering shrubs,
where the fairies, m the times of superstition, were
thought to hold their moonlight assemblies. In the
loch there is plenty of pike, perch, trout, and eel.
The eels caught here are of a considerable size. In
bright sunny days, when they come out near the
shore, and are distinctly seen at the bottom of the
shallow water, they are sometimes struck with the
eel-spear. The trouts grow from 4 lbs. to 12 lbs.
weight, but are seldom taken except on the set
line, or in the net. The perches are numerous, but
generally smaD ; they are caught in the usual man-
ner with the rod. They take very well here in
June, July, and August. The pike-fishing begins
about the end of March. Pikes have been killed in
this loch of from 12 to 24, or even 30 lbs. weight;
but the ordinary size is from 2 lbs. to 6 lbs.
Clunie castle contends with one in Dumfries-
shire for the honour of having given birth to the
celebrated James Crichton, better known by the
epithet of 'The Admirable,' who died in 1581. The
island itself is mostly artificial, if not altogether so.
It must have been formed with great labour, and in
some very distant period, as there is neither record
nor tradition with respect to its formation. In pa-
pers dated 360 years ago, it is termed ' The Island
of the loch of Clunie.' The people in the neigh-
bourhood affirm that it was once joined on the south-
east side to the mainland ; but this is not at all pro-
bable, as the land there lies at a very considerable
distance, with deep water intervening. Its surface
is a circular plain, of about half-an-acre, raised a
few feet above the ordinary level of the loch, and
surrounded with a strong barrier of stones thrown
carelessly together, and sloping into deep water all
around, like the frustum of a cone. That this
island has been formed principally by human art
seems demonstrable from this, that the ground of
which it is composed is evidently factitious ; and in
digging to the depth of 7 feet, near the centre of
the island, nothing like a natural stratum of earth
appeared. The foundation of the castle-wall is
several feet below the surface of the water, and in
all likelihood rests on piles of oak. On the west-
em shore of the loch stands the old castle-hill, — a
large green mound, partly natural and partly artifi-
cial, on the top of which are the ruins of a very
old building. " Some aged persons still alive,"
says the Old Statistical Account, " remember to
have seen a small aperture, now invisible, at the
edge of one of the fragments of the ruins, where,
if a stone was thrown in, it was heard for some
time, as if rolling down a, stair-case. From this
it seems probable that were a section of the hill
to be made, some curious discoveries might be the
consequence. The castle-hill is of an elliptical
form, extending in length from north to south about
190 yards at its base, and rising about 50 feet above
the level of the locb. A green terrace surrounds
the hill; and on the north side one terrace rises
above another. The area of the summit approaches
to an elliptical plain, a little inclined towards the
east ; of this plain, the longitudinal diameter, from
north to south, is about 90 yards, and the transversa
about 40. The old castle has stood on the south
end of the summit, commanding a distinct view of
the neighbourhood, so as not to have been easily
taken by surprise. Some vestiges of it still remain ;
but neither its form nor dimensions can be traced
with any degree of precision. The principal fortifi-
cations seem to have run along the land side, and
the loch and the declivity of the hill appear to have
defended it on the east, where it is probable there
has been an easy communication with the island by
means of boats ; so that, in case of the castle being
taken, the island might afford a refuge to the be-
sieged. Concerning this piece of antiquity no writ-
ten record can be found. According to the tradi-
tion of the neighbourhood, it was a summer-palace
or hunting-seat of Kenneth Macalpin, who conquered
the Picts, and united the Scottish and Pictish king-
doms ; and if we suppose this tradition to be well-
founded, it is not unlikely that it was he who first
formed the island in the loch, as a place of retreat
in time of danger."
CLUNIE (The), or Cluanadh, a stream in the
parish of Crathie, Aberdeenshire. It rises in several
head-streams in the mountains which separate Brae-
mar from Perthshire, flows about 10 miles north-
ward through Glen Clunie, and falls into the Dee
near Castleton of Braemar. About 3 miles above its
confluence with the Dee, it receives its chief tribu-
tary, Calater or Calader burn, flowing from Loch
Calater.
CLUNY, a parish, containing a post-office station
of its own name, in the district of Kincardine O'Neil,
Aberdeenshire. It is bounded by Monymusk, Ken-
may, Skene, Echt, Midmar, Kincardine O'Neil, and
Tough. Its length eastward is about 10 miles ; and
its breadth is about 2 miles. The surface comprises
about 7,000 acres, — of which four-fifths are under
cultivation ; and is intersected by the burn of 'Torr,
flowing northward to the Don. The soil in general
is warm and dry. The principal residences are
Cluny castle, a large edifice founded in the 15th
century by Sir Alexander Gordon, and Castle-Fraser,
an edifice of the same date. There are five land-
owners; and the average rent of land is 13s. per
acre. The parish is traversed by the road from
Aberdeen to Alford. Population in 1831, 959; in
. i "" S 1 =
tai V- \ Ilk, J
;-ti
.*.'*'* :
'"'■,,,, . " R
CLUNY.
277
CLYDE.
1861, 1,254. Houses, 240. Assessed property in
1843, £4,425 ; in 1860, £5,091.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kincardine
O'Neil, and synod of Aberdeen. Patrons, the Crown,
and Gordon of Cluny, and Eraser of Castle-Fraser,
alternately. Stipend, £173 10s. 7d. ; glebe, £20.
Schoolmaster's salary now is £50, with £14 fees.
The parish church is situated nearly in the centre
of the parish. There is a Free church, with an
attendance of above 200 ; and the yearly receipts of
it in 1865 amounted to £99 7s. O.Jd. There is a
girls' school, supported by the Castle-Fraser family.
CLUNY, an estate in the parish of Laggan, In-
verncsg-shirc. It belongs to Cluny Macpherson,
the chief of the Macphersons. Cluny castle, that
gentleman's seat, is a massive two-storeyed, turret-
ed, granite building, 8i miles south-west of Pitt-
main ; and the grounds around it contain extensive
gardens, a large model farm, and several objects of
historical interest. Ardverilde Lodge stands on the
Cluny estate ; and the royal family while rusticating
there in the autumn of 1847, made a visit to Cluny
castle. See Ardverikje and Laggan.
CLUNY HILLS. See Forres.
CLYDE (The), a noble river traversing a large
part of the western lowlands of Scotland. It is
formed by many rills and torrents in a region of
mountains. The reputed parent stream rises about
five miles south-west of Elvanfoot, at an elevation of
1 ,400 feet above the level of the sea ; but several of
the head-waters have a much longer run, and de-
scend from elevations at least twice as high. The
streams are numerous, and come together from
many directions. They are all rapid, noisy, and
wildly frolicsome, — differing as much from the
broad, calm, useful river at Glasgow as the most
capering and crowing baby differs from the gravest
sage. The district which cradles them is part of the
great alpine region, sometimes called the Southern
Highlands, comprising also the sources of the Tweed
and the Annan ; and it contains within the drainage
of the Clyde, most of the Lowther mountains, and
some of the summits or shoulders of Leadhills,
Queensberry, and Hartfell. It consists principally
of the lower members of what the old Wernerians
called " transition rocks," and was formed at a geo-
logical epoch long prior to the sandstones, coal-beds,
and iron bands of the middle Clyde. Its general
surface is high, bare, rolling moorland, sliced into
pieces by the courses of the streams, — bleak, tame,
and hoydenish, — a weary wild of heath and churlish-
ness,— with scarcely a dash of either the soft ver-
dure of pastoral hills, or the stern grandeur of pre-
cipitous mountains ; and it offer's relief to the sick-
ened eye only in some choice declivities which are
clothed with flecks, or along some wide dells which
are dressed out with culture. But this dreary coun-
try is now enlivened up the vale of the Clyde, and
on to the head of Annandale, with the rattling traffic
on the Caledonian railway ; and in former times it
was occasionally startled from its solitude by the
hymn of the persecuted Covenanters, — and anciently
by the war-cry of our savage forefathers, in their
conflicts with the Romans, — and oftener by the roar of
wild beasts ranging the Caledonian forest. All was
at no very remote date waving with wood ; and the
tracts which at present know only " the whistling
of plovers and bleating of sheep," were then vocal
with the boundings of hart and hind, and the loud
tallyho of their ardent hunters.
The progress of the Clyde from the centre of the
mountain district till the commencement of the open
country, is very diversified, and presents many inter-
esting features. Between Elvanfoot and Crawford,
the river sweeps round the base of several pictur-
esque hills. Below Crawford it washes the skirt oi
a romantically situated Roman camp. Between
Abington and Culter, it flows now beneath wooded
banks, now among heathy uplands, and now through
pleasant pastures and charming corn-lands. In the
vicinity of Biggar, it traverses an outspread morass,
in such curious position and elevation on the very
edge of its basin, that in every high freshet it sends
off an overflow down the head-streams of Biggar
Water to the Tweed. From the morass to the
vicinity of Libberton, it alternates between heathy
uplands and luxuriant haughs; and thence to the
influx of the Douglas Water, a little above the com-
mencement of the famous falls, it bids farewell to
the mountains and grcywacke rocks, and meanders
in many a fold over a rich, flat, meadowy country,
superincumbent upon sandstone. But in this part
of its course, it often does great mischief by tumbling
abroad in desolating floods over wide expanses of
holm ; and in various places, it has left broad vesti-
ges of disasters done at former periods by changes
of its bed. Yet in spite of every evil of the past,
and every menace for the future, it wears every
where a smiling face, and is every where essentially
benign.
"And, O how fair the rural scene!
For thou, O Clyde, hast ever been
Beneficent as strong ;
Pleased in refreshing dews to steep
The little trembling flowers that peep
The shelving rocks among."
The greater portion of the course between Abing-
ton and the Douglas Water is a vast sweep round
the eastern skirts of Tinto, so circuitous that a
distance of about 20 miles, exclusive of sinuosities,
is run between two points which are not farther
asunder in a direct line than 7£ miles. That re-
markable isolated mountain, therefore, gives a bird's-
eye view of all this part of the vale of Clyde ; and,
at the same time, it commands a clear prospect both
of the uplands around its head, and of the outspread
expanses around Hamilton and Glasgow. A person
on its top sees the infant river winding like a silver
thread along the bottom of a narrow dell, — follows
it down to a broad and splendid band of crystal,
through a diversified country at his feet, — and
traces it on till it becomes a glittering line of beauty,
along a great valley of fields and woods and gar-
dens. The summit of Tinto has an altitude of 2,312
feet above the level of the sea, and of 1,740 above
the Clyde at Thankerton. It is a wondrous mix-
ture of volcanic products — a museum of minerals —
overcapping a huge mass of transition rocks. It
probably bubbled into being in a series of red-hot
upheavals, at an epoch when all what is now the
low country of Lanarkshire was a muddy torrid sea.
It became much frequented by our heathen ances-
tors, and perhaps blazed often with both their fires
of idolatrous worship and their signal fires of war ;
for its name signifies " the hill of fire." And now
it appears, on a clear day, from vantage-grounds about
Glasgow and in other distant parts of the valley,
like an isolated dome, which a very ordinary imagi-
nation can regard at one moment as a mausoleum
of " the world before the flood," and at another as a
magnificent natural watch-post over the great rich
region which spreads away from its base.
The Clyde is about doubled in volume by the in-
flux of Douglas Water ; and it immediately prepares
to leave the upheaved country which it has hither-
to been traversing, to fling itself down the de-
scents of its celebrated falls. Hard crystalline rocks
suddenly cease to appear in its path ; and horizontal
sandstones, with some beds of shales, lying almost
in the state in which they were deposited in the
CLYDE.
278
CLYDE.
early epochs of organic existence, form all its bed,
and have allowed it to plough its way into a series
of romantic gorges and stupendous leaps. Its flanks
also are no longer either pastoral hills or meadowy
plains, but bold or mural screens of sandstone rock,
tufted with wood, intricate with character, and over-
looked by outspread or undulating surfaces of the
richest valley. The river all at once ceases to be a
placid stream, and becomes a turbid, boisterous,
frantic torrent, tumbling tumultuously down gloomy
defiles, or vaulting headlong over perpendicular pre-
cipices— achieving altogether a descent of about 230
feet within the region of its falls, and laying open a
magnificent section of the earth's crust for the study
of geologists, and the admiration of all lovers of
romantic scenery.
The first fall is Eonniton Linn, about 2J miles
above Lanark. It is a sheer leap of the whole river
over a precipice of 30 feet; and has a projecting
break in the middle of the breadth, which splits the
descending mass of waters, and gives double power
to their scenic effect. The fall becomes an abyss,
the abyss a river-torrent, and the river-torrent a
rock-excavator along a perpendicular chasm, of
from 70 to 100 feet in depth. This awful chasm
continues for about half a mile from Bonniton ; and
everywhere jams in the roaring river to twilight
darkness and the limits of a mill-race; and consists
of such mural right-up precipices, that one of the
earliest graphic writers on Srottish scenery aptly
characterised them as stupendous natural masonry.
At the end of the chasm, amid a sublime theatre of
overhanging cliffs, salient rooks, and densely-wooded
surfaces, occurs the Corra Linn, the grandest of the
falls. The river descends 84 feet, but is twice
caught by ledges of rock, so that it makes three
bounds, and becomes a vexed and weltering flood of
foam. Its previous roar has now increased to thun-
der; its clouds of spray sometimes sparkle in all
the hues of heaven ; and its blendings of character
with the crags and woods and witchery around it
present a combination of sublimity and beauty
which makes the imagination dizzy
About a quarter of a mile below Corra Linn is a
small hut very romantic fall, of ouly a few feet in
depth, called Dundaff Linn; and in its vicinity is a
rock called Wallace's chair, which the hero of Scot-
land is said to have frequented as a hiding place.
The banks of the river now assume a more soft and
sloping character ; and this they maintain over all
the distance of about three or four miles which in-
tervenes to the last fall, sometimes bosky and
luscious with wood, and sometimes cultivated to the
water's edge. But about a mile below Lanark they
are cloven by the influx of the romantic stream of
the Cartland Crags, descending through a tremen-
dous gorge of about 400 feet in depth, with vertical
cliffs and projecting crags of awful savageness,
and pierced in one place with a famous cavern
which figures in many a song and story as Wal-
lace's Cave. About two miles from Lanark occurs
the last fall, the Stonebyres Linn. The walls of the
river-bed are once more all rock and precipice, gar-
landed with wood; the descent is a leap of about 80
feet, twice broken by shelvings of the precipice ; the
action of the felling flood is a compound of plunge
and tumble, with circumstances of foaming uproar
and deafening tumult; and the effect of the scene
upon eye and fancy is very similar to that of the
Corra Linn, but less confounding and more thrilling
and ecstatic, — less replete with images of power,
but fuller of magnificence and grace. And the
heart of a wise observer, who has looked on all the
falls, adores profoundly at the feet of the Creator,
and feels that the iinnressions it has received from
this one spangle of the raiment with which he has
clothed the earth, must glitter gloriously upon it
for ever, and may serve well as a reminder of the
unutterable and infinite things which exist in the
beatific regions unknown to mortals.
11 O! I have seen the Falls of Clyde,
And never can forget them ;
For Memory, in her hours of pride.
'Midst gems of thought will set them.
With every living thing allied : —
I will not now regret them!
And I have stood by Bonniton,
And watched the sparkling current
Come, like a smiling wood-nymph, on —
And then a mighty torrent I
With power to rend the cliffs anon;
Had they not been before rent
And I have gazed on Corra Linn,
Clyde's most majestic daughter;
And those eternal rainbows seen,
That arch the foaming water;
And I have owned that lovely Queen
And cheerful fealty brought her.
And I have wandered in the glen,
Where Stonebyres rolls so proudly ;
And watched and mused, and watched again.
Where cliff and chasm, and cloud lie.
Listening, while Nature's denizen
Talks to the woods so loudly.
Yes! I have seen the Falls of Clyde,
And never can forget them ;
For Memory, in her hours of pride,
'Midst gems of thought will set them,
Witli life's most lovely scenes allied: —
I will not now regret them! "
The tract from Stonebyres Linn, or from a mile
above it, to the vicinity of Bothwell, a distance of
about 16 miles, with an average breadth of nearly
6, is lusciously gardenesque, — augustly beautiful,
and has been aptly designated the Orchard of Scot-
land. Along the banks of the river lie bands of
haugh or meadow, very fertile in soil, and seldom
higher than about 120 feet above the level of the
stream; behind the haughs rise acclivities, of
various height and steepness, but commonly witli a
stiff ascent to an altitude of about 250 feet, and
generally carpeted with clay soil, and waving with
luxuriant orchards; and behind these "banks and
braes," along the upper skirts of the tract rise hills
and tableaux of rolling outline and diversified char-
acter, to an occasional height of from 300 to 1,000
feet. The district is thus an oblong hollow, with
graduated sides, and has sometimes been called the
trough of Clyde ; but it is superbly the reverse of
" troughy " in its features and embellishments, and
may vie in these with both the most intricate glens
and the most finely wooded parks in the kingdom.
Its surface is a profuse series of level and undula-
tion and escarpment ; and its garniture is a sump-
tuous compound of parks, corn-fields, orchards,
coppices, and groves. A ride through it when the
orchards are in blossom or in fruit gives all the de-
lights, without any of the oppressions, of the palm-
groves of the tropics. A view of it from any van-
tage-ground near the river has the richness, and
even looks as if it had also the design, of a boundless
landscape-garden. And a ramble into its recesses,
in search of minute beauties, is rewarded by many
a fairy nook and splashing cascade, particularly in
the romantic, bosky, cavernous ravines which come
laterally down through the sandstone hills to the
Clyde, and are here called gills.
About 3£ miles from Stonebyres, adjacent to the
handsome modern villa of Clydegrove, is the mouth
of the pretty rivulet Nethan ; and a short way up
its vale, towards Lesmahago, on the brow of a
great rock, stand the famous ruins of the once
CLYDE.
279
CLYDE.
Ft rung castle of Craignethan. See Nethah (The),
and Crakjnetiian. Two miles below the Nethan,
on a charming peninsula of the Clyde, is the beau-
tiful Tudor mansion of Milton; and two miles to
the east of this, on a tableau above the orchard
braes, and in the vicinity of some most romantic
" gills," stands the village of Carluke. A little be-
low Milton, on a high peninsula, commanding a
long sweep of gorgeous scenery along the river,
and contributing in its own architecture and policies
very fine features to the landscape, is the massive,
tower-flanked, modern edifice of Maudslie Castle.
A little further on, enscened among orchards, is the
village of Dalscrf; and in its vicinity are the inter-
esting objects of Brownlee, Milburn-House, and
Carrion-Bridge. Between Dalserf and Hamilton,
on the right bank of the river, occur the fine man-
sions of Cambusnethan and Dalziel, the former cas-
tellated, and both reciprocating brilliant beauty with
the surrounding country.
But one of Clyde's affluents has been flowing
parallel to it, and rivalling it in attractions, all the
way from Maudslie Castle, at the average distance
of about two miles to the left. This is the Avon:
which see. The tract around its influx is a great
expanse of luxuriant meadow, flanked upon the left
by the town of Hamilton, and feathered all over by
the woody decorations of the ducal demesne. The
palace in' the midst of this is a princely pile, with
one of the grandest Corinthian porticos in the
world, but unhappily stands too low to contribute
any of its magnificence to the general landscape.
The vale of the South Calder, which terminates on
the opposite bank of the Clyde a little below the
palace, invites a tourist to a charming ramble
among groves and coppices, past the aristocratic
Beats of Wishaw Castle, Coltness, Murdieston, and
Allanton. Bothwell Bridge, about a mile farther
down the Clyde, and carrying over the old highway
from Hamilton to Glasgow, is the scene of the dis-
astrous rout inflicted on the army of the Covenanters
in 1679 by the Duke of Monmouth. The neigh-
bouring levels of hill and haugh continue the same
as on the day of the battle, but all their characteris-
tic features, and those of the bridge also, are com-
pletely changed. See Bothwell.
The river, below this point, is broad and majestic.
The banks are lofty, finely contoured, and profusely
wooded ; and the flanking ground for upwards of a
mile along the right is a promontorial tabular hill,
whose south-east end near the bridge commands a
most gorgeous view of the orchard districts of the
Clyde, and whose other end at the village of Ud-
dingstone commands a scarcely inferior though alto-
gether different one of the country around Glasgow.
On the vevge of the tableau, overlooking the river,
stand the magnificent ruins of Bothwell Castle,
with its red walls and circular towers, which often
changed proprietors in the eventful times of the
Scottish wars; and on the opposite bank, crowning
the verge of a perpendicular rock, and appearing
almost to blend with the crags, are the picturesque
ruins of Blantyre Priory. Smiling charms are given
to the outspread landscape by the noble plantations
on both sides of the river; and an interesting fea-
ture is derived from the Blantyre factories, half-hid
in a snug retreat, with their industrious bustle and
rushing machinery, like the hum of a bee hive in a
garden.
The banks begin to decline below Uddingstone ;
and they soon expand into a broad level of luxuriant
haughs and arable plains. The river scenery now
looks flat and English, yet continues to be rich and
merry, and has many appurtenances of power,
which are all unknown on most of the great levels
of England. The flow of the stream is pleasant;
the immediate hanks are tidy anil gay; the adjacent
surfaces are undulating and well-dressed; some little
affluents, especially the North Calder, the Kotten
Calder, and the Kiik burn of Cambuslanjx, come
down through small lateral vales in a rush of ro-
mance; a thousand seats of industry look up from
nooks and knolls, with a dirtiness and drollery
which resemble fun on the face of beauty; and a
fine ridge of hill, about 600 feet high, with flowing
summit and wooded skirts, extends along the left at
the best possible distance for good scenic effect,
and gives relief to the valley as a frame does to a
picture. And in this pleasing style do the Clyde
and its banks make their approach, and contribute
their resources, to the second city of the empire.
A splendid view of this latter stretch of the val ■
ley, together with vast back-grounds, is obtained
from Deehmont, the chief summit of the flanking
ridge, in the parish of Cambuslang, about five miles
from Glasgow. At your feet are the broad strath
and the winding river, with a profusion of mansions,
factories, and villages; a little to the left is the
mighty metropolis of Scottish industry, with its
spires, its cathedral, its picturesque masses of archi-
tecture, and its far-spreading suburbs, lying alto-
gether like a massive brooch on the bosom of the
valley ; in front is a great champaign district, the
broad depression between the Clyde and the Forth,
undulating oft" to the horizon, or overhung in the
distance by the Campsie Hills and the frontier
Grampians; on the right extends the region of the
orchards, from a vivid foreground about Bothwell
and Hamilton, up all the superb valley, and all the
tract of Lanark and the Falls, away to a flowing
back-ground over Tinto and on to the Lowther
mountains and the Pentland hills; and on the left
wends away the sumptuous lower Clyde, with its
stir of traffic and pomp of opulence, past Paisley
and Renfrew, to the bold barrier of the Kilpatrick
hills, overtopped by the dome of Benlomond and
the peaks of the Breadalbane and the Cowal moun •
tains. This is truly a series of grand views; and a
similar one, with some abatements toward the
right, but with fine additions over Renfrewshire
and athwart Ayrshire away to Arran, is obtained
nearer Glasgow, behind the old burgh of Ruther-
glen, from the top of Cathkin, another summit of
the same ridge,
" From whose fair brow
Tlie bursting prospect spreads around."
The verdant hanks of the Clyde, along several
sweeping curves in their approach to Glasgow, are
open to the public, and serve as a charming pro-
menade ; and when they come abreast of the eastern
suburbs, they expand into Glasgow Green, one of
the finest public parks in the world. The Green
has an area of 140 acres, is level and well-drained,
and has a luxuriant sward. It derives much em-
bellishment, in the upper part, from clumps and
rows of old timber, — in the middle, from the lofty
Nelson obelisk, — on part of the right side, from the
regularity and terraced form of the nearest street, —
at the foot, from the grand Grecian front of the
County Buildings, — and along all the left side, from
the majestic liver and the picturesque diversity of the
opposite bank. And on every fine day it is all astir
with life and glee, and performs well its invigorating
function as " the lungs of Glasgow." The march
of the Clyde past the main body of the city, from
the foot of the Green downward, is one of the most
picturesque things of its kind in the empire. The
buildings which confront it stand finely arranged in
the terraced manner, with spacious carriage way,
CLYDE.
280
CLYDE.
between them and the banks. The flanking masses
of architecture, composed of these terraces and of
structures overtopping them, exhibit a rich mix-
ture of styles, with a good proportion and effec-
tive grouping of spires, churches, and other public
edifices. All the bridges are elegant; and the
lowest, in particular, is such a model of beauty,
that, had not the title been pre-occupied in another
way, it might well have won for the designer of it
the name of Pontifex JUaccimus, " bridge-maker-in-
chief." And the shipping and wharves, from the
last bridge onward, the forest of masts, the evolu-
tions of steamboats, the movements of ship and
wherry, the maze of crowds and vehicles, the smoke
and roar and whirl of all the space between the ter-
races, form a compound of colours and objects which
neither poet nor painter can adequately depict.
The entire scene, from the Green downward, con-
siderably resembles the course of the Liffey through
Dublin, — to which that city owes more than one-
half of all its boasted beauty; but the central or
strictly urban part is shorter and less diversified,
while the maritime part is incomparably richer.
What a contrast to the state of things only 165
years ago, just before the construction of the first
rude quay at the Broomielaw ! The main body of
the town then still stood about the old hill, around
the Bell o' the Brae and the Drygate ; sending off
only a long tortuous tail down the High Street,
towards the Clyde at Bridgegate. Much of the low
tract near the river was broken, spouty meadow,
more or less similar to the puddles which must have
given rise to the name of Goosedubs. The upper
part of the navigation was a labyrinth of pool
and shallow, practicable only by flat-bottomed
boats. And the only bridge was the original Stock-
well one, 12 feet wide, rising with a rapid curva-
ture from a hollow at the end of Bridgegate. See
Glasgow.
The deepening of the Clyde for navigation be-
tween Glasgow and the frith, is one of the grandest
achievements ever done by human art, and has not
been equalled on any other river in the world. The
recent extension of the harbour, by such great ex-
cavations as to make ships float where factories
stood, has justly seemed a mighty matter in the
eyes of youths who have witnessed it, but in reality
is only a small part of one magnificent work, reach-
ing from the top of the Broomielaw to Dumbarton.
Eighty years ago, at the mouth of the Kelvin, the
Clyde had only a depth of 18 inches at low water,
and 44 inches at high water ; and over great stretches
there and downward, it splashed abroad in shallow
lagoons, interspersed with low islets and margined
with morasses. The labours which worked it into
its present condition, making it as uniform as a
canal, and as navigable as a sea-loch — the dredg-
ings, cuttings, straightenings, and stone-embank-
ings of its bed, the raising and levelling of its banks,
and the^ removal of all obstructions to a full sweep
of the tide and a free descent of river-silt — were
probably not inferior to those expended by the
ancient Egyptians in building the world-famed
pyramid of Cheops. And how immeasurably
grander are they in their morale — not things of idle
show, but all superlatively useful ! They have done
something, also, for the landscape,- — at least quite
as much as all the pyramids together have done for
the flat green valley of the Nile; for though the im-
mediate banks are too formal to look well in a pic-
ture, they are not more so than pyramidal outlines,
and have superseded the hideous surfaces of the fens
and shallows; and what grace and ever-shifting
brilliance do all the banks derive from the constant
transit of canvassed sea-craft, reeking steamers, and
tug-drawn ships, rich with the produce of all climes,
or mantled over with human beings!
The Clyde, for upwards of a mile from the top of
the Broomielaw, is practically a great dock, with
vessels on both sides from two to four a-breast, but
strikes the eye more pleasingly than any dock in
Liverpool or London, on account of its picturesque
intermixture of every class of craft. The banks over
the next mile have on both sides a band of verdure
open to the public, and often thronged by pedestrians ;
and are thickly set with yards and structures for the
building and repairing of ships, and for the iron-
work of steamers, and always make a grand dis-
play of vessels rising into form or preparing for the
launch. Kelvin water now comes in on the right,
but has bidden farewell to its gleesome glen, and
steals away heart-broken from among the wheels of
the great flour-mills at Partick. The tract around
its mouth exhibits, on a mimic-scale, the same sort
of wondrous change which has metamorphosed the
Clyde at the Broomielaw, having passed from a
state of low islet and sprawling strand to one of
deep channel and firm ship-yard. Opposite to it,
on the left bank of the Clyde, stands the lower part
of the village of Govan, with a church-steeple which
gives it a striking resemblance to Stratford-upon-
Avon, the birth-place of Shakspeare. The remark-
able height to which the freshets of the Clyde some-
times rose in the old period of half savage-husbandry,
previous to the modifying of rainfall by land drain-
age, is incidentally shown by an extant record of
the year 1454, which says, " Ther wes ane right
gret speit in Clyde, the quilke brocht down haile
housis, bernis and millis, and put all the town of
Govane in ane flote, quhile thai sat on the housis."
The lands along both sides of the Clyde, for a
number of miles below Govan, continue low and
flat, and were evidently formed by deposits from
the river within the human epoch. They are trim
and tidy, and contain fine mansions and broad em-
bellishments, but have no bold feature, and are
rather languishingly pretty than really beautiful.
But on the right, coining down at about a mile's dis-
tance from the banks of the Kelvin, and passing be-
hind Partick diagonally, to the vicinity of the Clyde,
is a picturesque sweep of soft low hill, — gay with de-
coration, gemmed with villas, and commanding rich
prospects over the plains of Renfrewshire, down the
valley of the Clyde, and through vistas west and
north to the Highland mountains. And this hill is
succeeded by a series of conical knolls and waving
swells, which pleasingly relieve the alluvial flats
along all the north. Three chief features on the
opposite bank, within four miles from Govan, are
the elegant mansions of Elderslie and BIythswood,
and the ancient burgh of Renfrew. But how
changed is all the ground around them since the
time when Clyde rioted at will ! An intricate maze
of land and water has become a uniform plain,
bisected by a single river-course ; a quondam island
called the King's Inch, and once graced with a
royal castle and royal residence, is now a main part
of Elderslie Park ; broad channels which conveyed
the Clyde through long curves, and had the old
burgh on their immediate banks, have been obliter-
ated ; and large spongy patches of marsh and strand
are now an expanse of emerald lawn, as smooth as
a pavement, and embossed with wood.
A mile below Renfrew, along the skirts of BIyths-
wood, comes in the tranquil Cart. A wooded little
isle immediately within that affluent's debouchure,
appearing like a clump of trees floating on the
water, is a contradiction to the history of the sur-
rounding tract, and lias been tricked by populai
waggery into a satire upon the Paisley lawyers.
CLYDE.
281
CLYDE.
It looks to be of modern formation; and the story
told about it says that a vessel was stranded at the
Bjiot, and became the subject of a law-plea, and that
before a decision could be obtained, silt and soil
and a growth of shrubs had completely entombed
the vessel, and made it a permanent monument of
property destroyed by litigation. Three streams
unite a short way above the isle, bringing thither
the drainage of all the plains and most of the hills
of Renfrewshire; and they cfl'ect their confluence
amidst scenery of much sweetness and general
amenity. A vista-view, sylvan and lovely, lies up
their course from the Clyde to the hill of Paisley,
which is covered with buildings and crowned by a
cloud-piercing spire ; and that hill in its turn com-
mands a map-like view of the great straths of
Clyde and Cart, set in a glorious frame of many-
featured uplands. Hundreds of storied spots, rife
with incident and legend, lie within this zone of
vision, — some, such as Paisley Abbey, Knox, Ellcrs-
lie, Gleniffer, and Crookston, very near at hand, and
all more or less known to many frequenters of the
bill, who are scarcely more famous in their feats of
the loom than for their love of flowers and song
and traditionary lore, and for the keen eye with
which they study this gorgeous panorama. And
here, as fervently as anywhere, may we exclaim, in
the beautiful lines of Mary Howitt, —
" Oil ! wild traditioned Scotland,
Thy briery burns and braes
Are full of pleasant memories
And tales of other days.
Thy story-haunted waters
In music rush along,
Thy mountain glens arc tragedies,
Thy heathy hills are song! "
The tow tracts on the left side of the Clyde, after
the influx of the Cart, are diversified by flowing
diluvial eminences, arable or wooded. At the dis-
tance of about 3J miles, opposite to Old Kilpatrick,
they put on the patrician decorations of Erskine
Park, the seat of Lord Blantyre ; and a little farther
down, they begin to be flanked and superseded by
the commencement of a large sweep of trap- rock
bill, which is soon pierced by the tunnel of the
Glasgow and Greenock railway, and lifts up superb
vantage-grounds for viewing the combined scenery
of the Clyde and the Leven. The tracts on the
right bank have more character, and eventually
attain great magnificence. Opposite Blythswood,
the foreground is flat but fertile, the middle ground
is a hanging plain, and the back ground is pastoral
upland, part of the ridge of the Kilpatrick Hills,
which extends diagonally from Stratkblane, in the
centre of Stirlingshire, to Dumbuck on the Clyde
above Dumbarton. A mile or two down, the front
is a mingled marking of factory and country, and
the middle is a green, undulated, rolling brae,
sinuously ploughed by a ravine, and merrily enli-
vened by the manufacturing industry of Duntocher.
There is now Dalnotter Hill, narrowing the low
ground near the river, and commanding a scene
which serves as a fit vestibule to all the gallery
glens of Loeh-lomond and the sea-loehs ; and at -its
west base stands the village of Old Kilpatrick, the
alleged birth-place of the apostle of Ireland, partially
hid among trees, but lifting its small, square, pin-
nacled tower modestly into view. A little lower
down, the ridge of the Kilpatrick Hills begins to
press close upon the river ; and thence till it termi-
nates in Dumbuck, it either descends in a rapid de-
clivity almost to the water's edge, or makes a curv-
ing recess to admit a sweep of narrow luxuriant
vale. It here immediately overlooks the policies of
Erskine House, which expand and undulate aloug
the opposite bank, in a luscious mixture of lawn
and grove; and it prosents on its own sides, running
up to the height of 1,200 feet above sea-level, a
magnificent combination of scenic features, — at first
villas and gardens and arable fields, — next smooth
and grassy ascents, — next broken and diversified
acclivities; here a scaur or crag or precipice, and
there a feathery mass of coppice or plantation, —
now the stern savageness of a Highland mountain,
and then the luxuriant growth and flowing curves
of Lowland knolls. Almost every swell upon its
skirts lifts the eye over a long stretch of the Clyde,
with its brilliant banks and its nautical stir; its
middle acclivities, particularly behind Old Kilpa-
trick, command a prospect of all Renfrewshire, and
of Strathclyde to Tinto ; and various heights on its
broad summits, give majestic views of the hill-
locked upper frith, the tempest surfaces of the
Cowal mountains, the alpine-girt Loch-lomond, and
the intervening mazes of all wondrous things along
the collusion of Lowlands and Highlands.
Here terminates the coal-country of the Clyde,
which extends from the vicinity of StODebyres to
Bishopton on the south bank, and to the Kilpatrick
Hills on the north. About a mile and a half below
the village of Old Kilpatrick is Bowling Bay, with
wharves, shipping, and the commencement of the
Forth and Clyde canal. A furlong farther on are
another quay, and the Bowling station of the Dum-
barton railway. About a mile from Bowling Bay
is the little promontory of Dunglass, with its wild
rocks, its old castle rains, its obelisk in memory of
Henry Bell, and its reminiscences of might and mo-
ment in the times of the Romans, who used it as a
military station, and made it the western terminus
of their great wall across (Scotland to the Forth.
The river is now widening into an estuary ; and the
band of low ground between its right bank and the
hills, from Bowling Bay downwards, has a luxuri-
ant aspect, and is thickly set with villas and vil-
lages. Dumbuck stoops precipitously down, with
stern, brown, and basaltic sides; and a range of
trap crags extends away behind and above it, ter-
minating the back parts of the Kilpatrick ridge,
and exhibiting a confused resemblance to a lofty
pedestalled colonnade. A broad depression now
comes laterally down to the Clyde, along the flank
of these hills, opening from its waters an impressive
view of the Luss mountains and the dusky, massive
shoulders of Benlomond. This depression is the
bland and beautiful vale of the Leven, modemly
studded with towns and printfields, but formerly all
rural, and for ever embalmed among pastoral things
in one of the sweetest odes ever penned. At the
mouth of the vale, or rather the lip of the mouth,
washed on two sides by the last sweep of the Leven,
aud rising sheer up on another from the Clyde, is
Dumbarton Castle, a cleft cone, a mitred rock, an
isolated, mural, biforked bill of naked whinstone,
about a mile in circumference, and 560 feet high.
The Clyde abreast of it, and westward, looks like a
great lagoon, and has been said to resemble the sea
of Galilee ; but, though possessing none of the moral
glory of that lake of miracles and favoured retreat
of the Divine Redeemer, and unfit to be named in
the same age with it for power upon all the holiest
associations of the mind, it is far superior as a piece
of mere scenery, has richer margins, grander foils,
nobler back-grounds, and a myriad-fold busier stir
of life, and may be accepted by any stranger as a
fair type of the laud and water scenery of all Scot-
land aud its isles.
" The glorious Scottish fatherland
Where the gowan bright is growing,
CLYDE.
282
CLYDE.
Where the loch is softly flowing.
Where Benlomond's height is glowing,
Where the brave waves sweep the strand,
Oar own, the Seotchloved fatherland 1"
This lagoon extends about nine miles in the same
general direction in which the river had run from
Lanark, and widens from six furlongs to about four
miles. Most of the floor of it is very shallow, and
becomes either bare or shoaly at low water ; and all
this has been forming by deposits of silt, in the
same manner as the tracts which are now dry allu-
vial land between Govan and Dumbuck, and has
the same relation to the Clyde which deltas have to
large rivers, such as the Nile, the Ganges, and the
Mississippi, whose low flat territory is making con-
tinual encroachment on the sea. But marvellously
little alluvium of the Clyde's lagoon, or indeed of
any part of the frith, has yet risen permanently
above the dominion of the tide ; and the sea-boards
generally rise from the water's edge, with a rock-
bed of similar character to that about the region of
the falls, and ascend in various gradients, but com-
monly with much boldness, to a high acclivity. A
large proportion of the braes and mountains is hard
trap, more or less basaltic ; but a large proportion,
also, is either conglomerate or old red sandstone or
greywacke; and the two classes of rocks are so
capriciously related to each other, or rather related
in such different ways and with such striking alter-
nations, as to produce one of the most grandly-
featured landscapes in the world.
About a mile from Dumbarton is the site of the
ancient castle of Cardross, the frequent residence
and the death-place of King Robert Bruce. A mile
or two farther on, surrounded by rich amenities of
country, is the pretty little village of Cardross. Be-
hind this, at the culminating point of the ridge
which flanks all the north side of the lagoon, is a
summit, which, on the one side, gives a bird's-eye
view of the lagoon, and on the other commands superb
prospects of the basins of Lochlomond and the En-
drick. Two miles below Cardross, the low, broad-
headed peninsula, called the Hill of Ardmore, brings
down a bold invasion of forest upon the frith. Two
miles or so farther on is the long, handsome, happy,
little town of Helensburgh, spread out like an em-
broidered garment in the sun, and fringed at both
ends with wood and villas. Nearly in front of it,
but a little to the right, is the end of the noble pen-
insula of Eoseneath, nearly two miles broad, sheet-
ed over with beauty and grandeur, much adorned
with a park and palace of the Duke of Argyle, and
forming the west screen of the lagoon. Between
Helensburgh and this enters the Gareloch, an
oblong bay of eight miles in length, a direct con-
tinuation of the stretch of waters from Ardmore,
perfectly pompous with groves and mansions, and
sublimely overhung with variously charactered
mountain siunmits. All this tract is a very favour-
ite bathing retreat of the Glasgow citizens.
The south flank of the lagoon consists chiefly of
a narrow band of low ground, and of a single range
of steep, regular, heathy hill, and is therefore com-
paratively tame. But it sports upon its skirts
many adornments of wood and cultivation ; it ex-
hibits in two places the broad, brilliant points of
Port-Glasgow and Greenock; it is enlivened along
its edge by the whirr and whistle of the railway
traffic, and along much of its base by the rush and
foam of the frith navigation ; and it looks gaily out,
from three-fourths or more of all its surface, upon
the splendid scenery of the north flank, and of Eose-
neath and Gareloch, with peeps, in some places, at
the upper heights on the farther screen of Lochlo-
mond. Tlifl horizon north and north-west of it is
one of the grandest things in Scotland, and equals
some of the most admired in Switzerland. The
right hand part of this is a mountain summit line
of several curves, all as flowing and regular as in
diagrams of ideal beauty ; and the left hand part is
a great group of alpine crags, of most rugged out
line, with freakish peaks and wild projections,
huddled together like a chaos, yet chiselled and con-
toured like statuary, and popularly called, in wild
waggery, the Duke of Argyle's Bowling Green.
This sublime scene is especially impressive as seen
from Greenock. Where else, indeed, can a picture
be obtained with so mighty a back-ground, looming
behind a centre of stirring sea, and a front of busy
town? The quay of Greenock itself, also, with its
Doric custom-house, its gay esplanade, its dance of
life, and its splash and tumult of navigation, is power-
fully picturesque ; and all the connected thorough-
fares are but too full of the intoxication of present
things, — the sight-seeing and hilarity which have
dismissed serious reflection to "a more convenient
season." And a curious circumstance is, that the
churlish MacCulloch, who could feel no pleasure in
some of the grandest glens of the Highlands, was
struck, " all of a heap," with the scenery of Green-
ock ; while the bland Wordsworth, who commonly
smiled and sang amidst all sorts of tolerable land-
scapes, became pensive and sad at sight of the giddy
gaiety of Greenock's crowds.
A close array of handsome villas lines the shore
for about a mile below Greenock. An outcropping
hill rises slowly to the west of the town, and termi-
nates in a precipitous crown, which commands a
superb view of the frith from Dunglass to Dunoon.
A graduated promontory goes out from this hill, and
has on its point a small battery. A pretty curving
bay commences a little further on, and is zoned by
the blythesome village of Gourock, and overlooked
by true " step-stair " trap hills. The Point of Kem-
poch — infamous in clays of yore for tricks of Popish
jugglery and devil-craft — terminates the bay ; and
an elegant continuation of Gourock, under the name
of Ashton, extends a good distance along the skirts
of a bold sea-board, looking right across to thc>
bleak masses of the Cowal mountains. We are nov,
at the region of heath ; for three-fourths or more ol
all the land within view downward are clothed in
russet. But we are also at a very distinctive part
of the frith, where it is making its rapid bend from
a westerly to a due southerly direction, and whence
its direct or main channel is only one of many
stretches of its magnificent complexity of waters.
A sketch of its scenery from this point downward,
on any such scale as the one we have been follow-
ing, would form a series of articles, and these not
properly on the Clyde itself, but on the Clyde's
islands and sea-lochs, the tracks of steam-boat tours,
and the scenes around the watering villages. In
tracing the Clyde from Ashton to the sea, therefore,
we shall do little more than make a few general in-
dications.
Just after rounding Eoseneath, or at a point north-
west of Gourock, the frith sends away to the north
the long, mountain-screened wild sea-arm of Loch
Long; and this in its turn soon sends oif to the
north-west the deep grand bay of Loch Goil. Oppo-
site Ashton, and separated from the mouth of Loch
Long only by the russet mountain of Kilmun, is the
sombre Highland bay of Holy Loch. Adjacent to
the entrance of Loch Long, though on opposite sides
of it, and in one case within Holy Loch, are the
pleasant new villages of Strone and Kilcreggan, and
the famous old village of Kilmun. The frith, for
ten miles down from Eoseneath, rarely exceeds three
miles in width, and has a somewhat uniform char-
CLYDE.
283
CLYDESDALE.
actcr, — picturesquely hilly along the left, and dow-
dily mountainous along- the right. Below Ashton,
on the crown of a lofty eminence, stands the old
towerof Leven ; fartheron, upon the tongue of a small
headland, stands the pretty lighthouse of Cloch; and
still farther on, upon the same shore, are tire elegant
mansions of Ardgowan and the beautiful ravine of
Innerkip. Along the Cowal shore, for nearly two
miles from the mouth of Holy Loch, extends a
brilliant array of villas connected with the landing-
place of Kirn and with the village of Dunoon.
About six miles below Dunoon, round the Point of
Toward, overlooked within by the splendid mansion
and park of Toward Castle, is the commencement of
the Kyles of Bute, the magnificent belt of marine
waters which encircles half of Bute island, and sends
off two romantic ramifications into the interior re-
gions of the Cowal mountains. A little within its
mouth, on the left side, is tire beautiful bay of Rothe-
say, half embraced by the beautiful town, and en-
vironed with all sorts of beautiful things, for Bute
is all round it, and all Bute is beautiful. See Bute.
The stretch of the frith between Bute and Ayr-
shire has an average width of about five miles.
The upper part of this is open, has pleasant shores,
and terminates on the left at tbe picturesquely situ-
ated town of Largs, — famous for the defeat of Haco of
Norway by Alexander III. of Scotland, — and the
lower part is bisected by the two Cumbray islands,
— the greater containing the pretty town of Millport,
and the lesser remarkable for its lighthouse and its
soaring teriaced cliffs. The frith now suddenly ex-
pands into a gulf, averaging about 32 miles in width,
and from 45 to 48 miles in length, merging at its
farther end into identity with the Irisb channel.
Its west side is screened by the undulating surfaces
of Kintyre, and terminating at the Mull, where the
Irish Channel passes out to the Atlantic. A por-
tion of the gulfs area, 26 miles long, and 12 broad,
about 6 miles from Kintyre and 4$ from Bute, is oc-
cupied by the mountainous island of Arran, with
stupendous peaks and savage glens, wonders of ge-
ology, and marvels of tradition. See Arran. North
from the north-west of Arran, and west from the
middle of Bute, goes off the flauntingly long and
picturesquely varied sheet of Loch Fine, leading up
to gigantic scenery, and to spots teeming with his-
tory, at Tarbert, Lochgilphead, and Inverary. All
the east of the gulf is screened by the coast of Ayr-
shire, with its varied sea-board, its array of towns,
and its many mementos of the Norsemen and
Cruithne and Feudal Barons of the ancient times.
The part of the gulf between Arran and Ayrshire
measures about 14 miles across; and all this, as
well as the entire expanse beyond, is overlooked by
Ailsa Craig, a conical mass of columnar trap,
similar to Dumbarton Castle, but uncloven, and
about twice as high, rising from the bosom of the
waters boldly and clearly, with all the force and
twice the bulk of an Egyptian pyramid. See Ailsa
Craig.
How noble a rank, then, does the Clyde hold
among the rivers of Scotland, — " the land of the
mountain and the flood," whose fame is as great
for beauty of lakes and streams, as for grandeur
of glens and hills ! It is but the fourth, indeed, in
volume of fresh water, — the third in length of course,
— and inferior to many in Highland sublimity or
in pastoral loveliness, and to some in soft witchery
and wild romance ; but it is far the first in utility
and aggregate attraction, — and greatly superior to
all in artificial improvement, in industrial enter-
prise, in commercial traffic, in steam-boat fame, in
sea-loch ramification, and in the variety and blend-
ing and general effect of all styles of landscape, from
the tame to the savage, and from the simply pretty
to the elaborately magnificent.
''Majestic Clutha ! as a princess moving
From the pavilion of thy morning rest,
To where the Atlantic sits, with smile approving,
And folds his daughter to his ample breast.
Throned in the sunset, monarch of the west,
On thee he pours the treasures of his reign,
And wreaths Columbia's riches round thy crest
The Indies love thy name ; and the long train
Of myriad golden isles that gem the azure main."
CLYDESDALE, or STRATiicLynE, either the en-
tire basin of the Clyde, or the immediate valley of the
river, or the part of that valley within Lanarkshire.
The first and the second of these senses of the word
are ancient ; and only the third is now in use. The
topographical features of the valley have been
sketched in the preceding article, and the agriculture
and statistics of it will be noticed in the article on
Lanarkshire. But two things for which it is-
famous — its orchards and its breed of horses — may
be noticed here.
The orchards of Clydesdale lie mostly between the
bottom of the lowest fall of the river, and the mouth
of the South Calder; or perhaps, from the foot of the
Mouse water to Bothwell Castle, a distance of 16
miles. At the upper end of this district, the bed of
the river is about 200 feet above sea-level ; at the
lower end it does not exceed 50. This region
is well-protected against the cold easterly haars,
which are so injurious to vegetation ; and hoar-
frosts or mildews are seldom felt here. The orch-
ards are chiefly of apple-trees, with a mixture of
pears and plums. Cherries are more rarely cul-
tivated, being so much subject to the depreda-
tions of birds. Few of the orchards are large:
many of them are mere cottage-orchards. They
were stated in the 'Agricultural Report' of 1793,
to amount to 200 acres ; and in that of 1806, to be
upwards of 250 acres; while the total extent of
orchards in the county exceeded 340 acres. At
present they amount to 1,200 acres, including in
this estimate the small gardens and cottage-orch-
ards in and around Hamilton. The produce is
very precarious, the fruit being frequently destroyed
m the blossom by spring-frosts and caterpillars.
In some years, such as 1818, the whole value oi
the orchards betwixt Lanark and Hamilton has
amounted to upwards of £6,000. Even in the
years 1801 and 1804, the value of the fruit from
the different orchards exceeded £5,000 each year;
but this was not so much owing to an increase oi
fruit from orchards lately planted — few of them
having arrived at any perfection of fruit-bearing —
as to a gradual rise in the price of fruit, and both
those years being very productive ones. A remark-
able instance is mentioned of the fruit produced on
half-an-acre of ground, in the former year, bringing
£150 to the dealer who carried it to market. The
value of the fruit is not always in proportion to the
number and. size of the trees. Those who cultivate
the ground around the trees, taking care not to in-
jure the roots, and giving manure from time to time,
have finer fruit, and a much greater quantity in
proportion than those who do not. Much also de-
pends on adapting the trees to the soil and exposure.
Though the different kinds of apples, &c. are gen-
erally engrafted on the same kinds of stocks, each
assumes the habits peculiar to the scion. Those
who have been attentive in observing this, and
choosing the kinds best adapted to their situation,
have found their account in it. But it ought not
to be understood that the choice of the stock is of
no importance. Native crabs are the hardiest, and
prove the most durable trees. Codling stocks, and
CLYDESDALE.
284 CLYDESDALE RAILWAY.
those raised from the seeds of good fruit, generally
produce also finer fruit ; but the trees seem to be
more subject to disease. The causes which produce
the phenomena occurring in the orchard are so in-
tricate and incomprehensible, that the most atten-
tive and acute cultivator can neither avert the
injuries and maladies to which the trees are liable,
nor cure those that are diseased. There is, indeed,
no general principle to direct the cultivator of the
orchard ; all must depend on a long course of topi-
cal experience, by which the kinds of fruit-trees
which have been found to thrive and bear best in
aii3r particular spot may be known and selected.
The Clydesdale orchards are mostly planted on
steep hanging-banks ; on such they have been
found to succeed better than on plains. The abrupt
banks of the Clyde, especially on the north side,
are ill-adapted for any other agricultural purpose,
as the expense of labour and manure would hardly
be repaid by the crop. On the other hand, the ex-
cellent exposure, and general sharpness of the soil,
render these banks an object of importance in the
eye of the cultivator of fruit. Most .of the orchards
are on cohesive soils, and on such the trees have
been supposed to be surer bearers than on open
sandy soils ; yet there are instances of very produc-
tive orchards on friable and gravelly soils. The
apple-tree in general succeeds on a pretty hard
soil, provided the bottom be dry; but when the
roots penetrate a subsoil holding stagnant water, or
greatly charged with the oxide of iron, the tree fails.
The pear-tree requires a soil of greater depth, and
more soft and moist ; and will thrive in a subsoil
where the apple fails. It also yields fruit earlier,
lives to a greater age, and arrives at a greater size
and more towering height than the apple-tree. A
single pear-tree has been known to yield 60 sleeks
of fruit, at 50 lbs. per sleek ; * and there is a Lon-
gueville pear-tree at Milton-Lockhart, said to be
300 years old. The plum-tree does not succeed in
the very stiff cohesive soils ; it requires a considerable
depth of dry friable mould. Its district extends to
about 3 miles on either side of Dalserf. All the
fruit-trees which have been engrafted are more
delicate than those in a natural state, and require a
more attentive culture. Plum-trees are generally
planted round the verge of the orchard, and are
profitable, not only for the fruit they bear, but
from the shelter they afford the other trees. All
fruit-trees require shelter, and do best when they
are embosomed in woods.
" Considerable diversity of opinion," says the
Journal of Agriculture, "prevails in Lanarkshire
as to how far the fruit-trees should stand from each
other; and errors have been run into both in plant-
ing too near and too sparse. In the Dalziel orchards,
and some others, the rows of trees are 22 feet apart,
and 1 1 feet distance in the rows. The trees in the
orchard at West-Brownlee are closer. In the new
orchard on the estate of Wishaw, the rows are at
30 feet distance, and the trees 15 feet from each
other in the rows. On the Coltness estate the rows
are 27 feet, and the trees 10A feet from one another
in the rows. Some, however, are sparser ; and in
some of the oldest orchards the trees are irregularly
planted. In general, however, they are planted
closer than is usually done in the English orchards.
It is a common practice in the Clydesdale orchards
to plant an early bearer alternately with other trees
in the rows ; and some plant gooseberry and currant
bushes between the trees ; while others raise only
* A sleek of plums weighs CO lbs.; and of apples, 40 lbs.
The fruit boll contains 20 sleeks. The present average market
price of Clydcsdalo fruit is 50s. per bolL
potatoes, oats," &c. Upon the whole, though tl.o
produce of the orchard is precarious, when the ori-
ginal insignificance of the grounds ou which fruit-
trees succeed is considered, and the ready sale and
high price which the manufacturing towns afford
for fruit, an orchard planted with judgment and
carefully cultivated is certainly a profitable posses-
sion. On the other hand, the depredations com-
mitted on the orchards have become more frequent
and daring as the manufactures and population of
the county have increased, and are a great discour-
agement to this species of cultivation, particularly
that of small orchards, which cannot defray the
expense of watching during the night. Besides the
larger fruit, great quantities of gooseberries and
currants are here cultivated, and, when well-man-
aged, are said to pay very well. The gooseberry
and currant trees are dug round annually, kept on
a single stem, and dunged every second year.
Many new varieties of small fruit have been intro-
duced ; and vast quantities are every year brought
to market, in Glasgow, Paisley, Hamilton, and
Lanark, to the value, it is supposed, of one-third of
the large fruit. The principal orchards are in the
possession of their respective proprietors. The
Cambusnethan priory orchard extends to 26 acres,
and generally fetches on an average £300 per annum.
In some years, before the reduction in the prices of
fruit, it has brought £1,000. Mauldslie castle
orchard, extending to 8 acres, averages £150; in
1822 it brought £500 ; in 1838 only £38. One of
the Brownlee orchards, of 12 acres, has sometimes
yielded fruit to the value of £600, and in other years
has brought only £10. The glebe of Dalziel has
sometimes yielded £250. The importation of fruit
from Ireland has tended greatly to reduce the prices
of the Clydesdale fruit ; but some proprietors have
recently established cyder-presses, which may im-
prove the prices. The total sum realized from the
Clydesdale orchards in 1852 was £2,648. Orchard
ground lets at from £6 to £10 per acre.
The superlative animal known all over the Low-
lands of Scotland under the appellation of Clydes-
dale horse, is not of a pure breed, but is of a kind
improved by crossing. This improvement, Mr.
Wallace of Kelly says, can readily be traced to the
importation of black mares from Flanders, which
were much in fashion, and put to very frequent use
in the coaches of the gentry of Scotland, soon after
the use of such carriages became pretty general.
There is little doubt of this having been extensively
practised in Lanarkshire, and that breeding from
black Flanders mares was paid great attention to
in that district about 120 years ago. Mr. Wallace
thinks that the breed of draught-horses in general,
over the West of Scotland, has degenerated ; and
that the want of proper care, in respect of the quali-
ties of the mares bred from, is the main cause of
this. " Of late years," he says, " the breeding of
draught-horses has greatly extended over the West
of Scotland, including portions of the counties
bordering on or in the Highlands, where very use-
ful but small-sized mares have been bred from ; and
to this inferior crossing, may not only fairly be in
part attributed the colour complained of, but that
want of bone and strength, and of fine broad shape,
which any accurate observer will but too generally
discover at our horse-markets."
The Duke of Hamilton was created Marquis of
Clydesdale in 1643. His eldest son bears the title
of Marquis of Douglas and Clydesdale.
CLYDESDALE JUNCTION RAILWAY, a
railway in Lanarkshire, connected at one end with
the Glasgow and Greenock railway at Glasgow, at
the other with the Wishaw and Coltness railway at
CLYNE.
285
COALTON.
Motherwell, and sending off a branch or fork duo
south-east to Hamilton. The line of it from Glas-
gow to Rutherglen, a distance of 2 miles and 58
chains, is the quondam Pollock and Govan Rail-
way : which see. A branch of 37 chains, a small
part of it horizontal, and the rest with gradients
varying from 1 in 100 to 1 in 240, unites this to the
Glasgow and Greenock railway. The lino of the
Pollock and Govan has no bad curve, and for the
most part varies in gradient from 1 in 230 to 1 in
880. The line from Kutherglen southward passes
Rossethall and Cambuslang, reaches a place called
Parkfarm, and there splits into the two forks toward
respectively Hamilton and Motherwell. The Hamil-
ton fork passes the Blantyre cotton works, and ter-
minates in a very convenient station near the county
buildings at Hamilton. From Kutherglen to Hamil-
ton the distance is 8 miles 9 chains, with the fol-
lowing gradients, — 1 mile 3 chains 25 links, hori-
zontal; 4 miles 70 chains, rising 1 in 220; 26 chains
75 links, horizontal ; 1 mile 53 chains 33 links, ris-
ing 1 in 220; and 15 chains 67 links horizontal.
The smallest radius of a curve is one mile. Near
the point of divergence there is a tunnel of 230
yards in length. The Motherwell fork, after leav-
ing Park farm, crosses the Kotten Calder, and about
| of a mile farther on, the Clyde. Thence it runs
through an open country, passes Uddingstone,
crosses the North Calder, and joins the Wishaw
and Coltness railway, at Motherwell; the total
length from Parkfarm boing 6 miles 49 chains.
The gradients on this portion are — 20 chains, rising
1 in 220; 7 chains, horizontal; 70 chains, falling 1
in 180; 63 chains, horizontal; 4 miles 19 chains 50
links, rising 1 in 132; 13 chains 70 links, horizon-
tal; 15 chains 80 links, rising 1 in 132. With re-
gard to the chief works, the course of the Rotten
Calder is diverted, a tunnel of 110 yards is there
cut through the rock, the Clyde is crossed by an
arch of 54 yards, of an average height of 53 feet,
and the North Calder is crossed by arches 90 yards
long, and varying from 50 to 100 feet high. The
total length of the main line and branches is 15
miles 15 chains.
The project of this railway was originally a pro-
ject of the Caledonian Railway Company for an ap-
proach to the south side of Glasgow, but was aban-
doned by them with the view of reducing their
capital, and was then adopted and carried out by
other parties, and was afterwards, on a change of
views, purchased by the Caledonian Company for
the purpose of connecting their system, not only
with the south side of Glasgow but with the Glas-
gow and Greenock and Glasgow and Barrhead rail-
ways. The terms upon which it was acquired were
a guaranteed dividend of 6 per cent, on a capital of
£450,000, with a further right for the proprietors to
have their shares bought up by the Caledonian
Company at a premium of 50 per cent. By new
arrangements under an act of 1851, however, the
guaranteed dividend was reduced to 4i per cent.,
the right to demand the redemption of stock was
relinquished, and the proprietors became entitled to
£135,000 of Caledonian stock.
CLYNE, a parish, containing the post-office vil-
lage of Brora, on the east side of Sutherlandshire.
It is bounded on the south-east by the German
ocean; and on other sides by the parishes of Loth,
Kildonan, Farr, Rogart, and Golspie. Its length
south-eastward is 24 miles; and its breadth varies
from 4 to 8 miles. Its north-west district is part of
the wild, bleak, lofty, central mountain range of the
county. Its central district is a picturesque mix-
ture of glen and mountain, wood and water, com-
prising in the lower end the meeting of Strathbeg
and Strathbrora, and the debouch of the latter upon
the beautiful sheet of water called Loch Brora.
The south-eastern district subsides into lowland,
yet is very diversified and not a little attractive, —
comprising the banks and hill-screens of Loch
Brora, the interesting environs of the village of
Brora, a considerable proportion of arable land, and
at last a low sandy sea-beach with a belt of sand-
hills, partly verdant, partly bent-covered, and a
quarter of a mile broad. The total area amounts to
about 65,000 acres, — not more than 1,400 of which
are arable, most of the remainder being sheep-pas-
ture. The sole landowner is the Duke of Suther-
land. The inhabitants on the coast are mostly
fishermen. There is plenty of excellent freestone
and limestone, and coal was formerly wrought.
There are several Pictish antiquities; in particular,
a strongly fortified hill on the south side of Loch
Brora, called Craigbar. Upon a rock in the Black-
water of Strathbeg, about 1J mile north from the
junction of that water with the Brora, stand the
ruins of Cole's Castle; which see. The road from
Inverness to Wick goes along the coast, and a road
goes up the interior. Population in 1831, 1,711; in
1851, 1,933. Houses, 410. Assessed property in
1843, £2,910 3s. lOd. ; in 1860, £2,758.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the pres-
bytery of Dornoch, and synod of Sutherland and
Caithness. Patron, the Duke of Sutherland. Sti-
pend, £144 15s. 7d. ; glebe, £12. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50 ; fees, £15. The parish church was
built about the year 1770, and contains about 900
sittings. There is a Free church ; the yearly receipts
of which in 1865 amounted to £171 5s. There are
three non-parochial schools, — one of them a girls'
school at Brora, endowed by the Duke of Sutherland.
CLYTH-NESS, a small promontory in the parish
of Latheron, 13J miles south-west of Noss Head,
Caithness-shire. There is a small bay, which
serves as a harbour, called the harbour of Clyth, on
the south-west side of it. The castle of Easter
Clyth, which was formerly of great strength, is
situated upon a rock overhanging the sea near this
point. It is commonly called Cruner Gunn's castle.
Gunn was Coronator or Justiciary of Caithness,
and was basely murdered, with several gentlemen
of the same name, in the kirk of St. Teay near
Castle-Sinclair, by Keith, Earl Marischal, in 1478.
At the hamlet of Clyth is a neat little inn.
CNOC. See Knock.
COALSNAUGHTON, a thriving village, inha-
bited chiefly by colliers, in the parish of Tillicoultry,
Clackmannanshire. Here is a school-house which
was built and endowed by Mr. Wardlaw Ramsay.
Population, 795.
COALSTON, an ancient seat of the family of
Brown — now represented by the Marquis of Dal-
housie — in the parish and shire of Haddington;
about 2 miles south of Haddington. There is a
curious incident connected with the family of Coal-
ston. One of its ancestors married the daughter of
his neighbour, the famous warlock of Gifford, de-
scribed in Marmion ; and as they were proceeding to
the church, tradition says, the wizard-lord stopped
the bridal procession beneath a pear-tree, and pluck-
ing one of the pears, gave it to his daughter, telling
her that he had no dowry to give her, but that as
long as she kept that gift, good fortune would never
desert her nor her descendants. The pear is still
preserved in a silver box.
COALTON, a village, once thriving and inhabited
by colliers, but now in a state of decay, in the parish
of Ceres, Fifeshire.
COALTON (East and West), two mutually ad-
jacent villages in the parish of Wemyss, 1 mile
COALTON.
286
COCKBUENSPATH.
north of West Wemyss, and 4 miles north-east of
Kirkcaldy, Fifeshire. They are inhabited chiefly
by colliers. Population in 1861, of East Coalton
and of West Coalton, 408.
COALTON OF BURNTUEK, a village 1J mile
south-east of Kettle, in Fifeshire.
COALTBUEN, a station on the Dolphinton rail-
way, 4 miles south-west of Leadburn junction.
COALYLAND, a coal-field and a collier village
zn the parish of Alloa, Clackmannanshire. Popula-
tion of the village in 1851, 234. See Alloa.
COATBRIDGE, a post-town in the parish of Old
Monkland, Lanarkshire. It stands on the middle
road from Glasgow to Edinburgh, on the Monkland
canal, and contiguous to the Glasgow fork of the Cale-
donian railway, 1$ mile west-south-west of Airdrie,
and 9^ miles east by north of Glasgow. It is situ-
ated between Gartsherrie and Dundy van, in the very
centre of the coal-fields and iron-works of Monk-
land, amid a region of railways, furnaces, din, and
smoke. Property all around it has, in recent times,
risen amazingly in value ; and the town itself has
suddenly swollen from the condition of a village to
the character and appearance of a bustling suburb
of a commercial city. It contains malleable iron-
works, tube-works, foundries, and other manufacto-
ries; and it is the centre of a circle of only about a
mile in diameter, within whose circumference stand
the large iron-works of Gartsherrie, Summerlee,
Dundyvan, Calder, and Langloan, with aggregately
forty-three smelting furnaces. Its shops display as
grand windows and as gaudy finery as those of any
second-rate streets in either Glasgow or Edinburgh.
It is the seat of a miscellaneous, energetic, and
enormous retail and local trade; and perhaps owes
a considerable breadth of peculiarity to the reckless,
spendthrift habits of many of the miners. It has
offices of the Eoyal, National, Clydesdale, and Union
Banks, fourteen insurance offices, a police commis-
sion, a gas-light company, a mechanics' institution,
a public library, religious and benevolent institu-
tions, an academy, other public schools, a quoad
sacra parish church, a Free church, a United Pres-
byterian church, an Evangelical Union chapel, an
Episcopalian chapel, and a Roman Catholic chapel.
AH these places of worship are of quite recent erec-
tion ; and the yearly receipts of the Free church in
1865 amounted to £265 10s. Id. Very abundant
facilities of communication are enjoyed by means of
the Monkland canal to Glasgow, by means of omni-
buses to Airdrie, and especially by means of the
Caledonian railway to places north, west, and south.
Population in 1831, 741; in 1841, 1,599; in 1861,
10,501. Houses, 1,541. See Monkland (Old).
COATDYKE, a thriving village in the Gart-
sherrie and Coatbridge district of the parish of Old
Monkland, Lanarkshire. Population, 842.
_ COATS (East and West), two of the connected
villages of the parish of Cambuslang, Lanarkshire.
They are inhabited principally by labourers and
weavers. Population in 1851 of East Coats, 140;
of West Coats, 146.
COBBLER (The). See Aekochak.
COCHRANE. See Paisley.
COCHRANEMILL, a station on the Glasgow
and Ayr railway, 7.J mile south-west of Johnstone,
Renfrewshire.
COCHRIDGE. See Lethendy and Kinloch.
COCKBURNLAW, a mountain in the parish of
Dunse, Berwickshire. It rises from a base of at
least 6 miles in circumference, to a conical top,
which is elevated about 912 feet above the level of
the sea. It is encircled by the Whitadder on three
6ides. On the north side, a little below the middle
of the hill, are the ruins of a very old building,
called Woden's or Edwin's hall, or Edinshall. It
consists of two concentric circles; the diameter of
the innermost being 40 feet, the thickness of the
walls 7 feet, and the spaces between the walls 7
and 10 feet. The spaces have been arched over,
and divided into cells of 12, 16, and 20 feet. The
stones are not cemented by any kind of mortar;
they are chiefly whin stone, and made to lock into
one another with grooves and projections. It is
supposed to have been a building similar to Cole's
castle, and Dun-Dornadiila, in the county of
Sutherland. The rock composing this hill is, ac-
cording to Mr. Milne, an extremely compact trap,
consisting of felspar, quartz, and hornblende.
COCKBUENSPATH, a parish, containing a post-
office village of the same name, on the coast of Ber-
wickshire. It presents angles to the cardinal points
of the compass; and is bounded on the north-east
by the German ocean; on the south-east by the
parish of Coldingham, and part of Oldhamstocks :
on the south-west by Abbey St. Bathan's parish;
and on the north-west by the shire of Haddington.
Its greatest length, from its eastern angle on Red-
heugh shore, to its western angle near the source
of Eye water, is 7 J miles; and its greatest breadth,
from its northern angle at Dunglass-bridge, to its
southern angle at the point where Eye water ceases
to bound it, is 4f miles. At a former period, it was
a small parish, but was afterwards — though at what
particular date cannot be ascertained — incorporated
with the parish of Auldcambus. Cockburnspath
consists of two sections; the one bleak and moun-
tainous, and the other cultivated and comparatively
low and level. The higher or southern section is a
continuation of the elevated region of the Lammer-
moor hills, which, sweeping down upon the parish
from the north-east, passes away to meet the sea, a
little beyond its boundaries, in the bold promon-
tory of St. Abb's. This elevated tract is, in gen-
eral, soft in its features; the hills being almost all
rounded and broad, and never rising higher than
500 or 600 feet. Between these hills, and onward
toward the ocean, are various ravines or deep
gullies, threaded with mountain-streams, and wear-
ing in many places — from the mingling of rock and
wood and mimic cascade — an aspect highly pictur-
esque. The lower or northern section of the parish,
is, for the most part, well-cultivated; and, inter-
sected with the cleaving and sylvan-fringed stream-
lets from the south, rises slowly and wavingly to-
ward the hills. The coast is uniformly, but especi-
ally toward the east, of a rocky, bold, precipitous
character; and presents some striking scenes. A
beautiful insulated cliff, bored through by the bil-
lows, and a towering and magnificent rock, present-
ing an outline closely similar to that of a cathedral
or ancient tower, are fine foils to the general view ;
and the vast expanse of ocean beyond, the various
forms of the bold headlands in the distance, and the
dottings of the waters with vessels of every form
and size leaving or entering the frith of Forth, pre-
sent a general picture of no ordinary attraction.-
Of the several deep gullies of the parish the most
remarkable, jointly for its picturesqueness and its
other attractions, is Pease dean, — which has an
average depth of 150 feet for about 2 miles of its
length, with sides formed of stratified rocks, gener-
ally vertical and of a smooth surface. Over the
stream which flows through it, called the Pease
burn, is a remarkable bridge, reckoned a master-
piece of architecture, which carries the public road,
high aloft in the air, onward from the north-east
toward Berwick-on-Tweed. This bridge was built
in 1786: it is 300 feet in length, 15 feet between the
parapet walls, and 120 feet above the stream which
COCKBURNSPATH.
287
COCKENZIE.
Hows beneath ; and it consists of four arches, two of
which both rest their inner limbs upon a tall,
Blender pier, rising from the bottom of the deep
ravine. The bridge is visited by many a tourist,
and often examined with a curious eye, — the fame
attaching to it, of its being one of the "tallest bridges
in Scotland. See Pease. — The Cove, about lj mile
from Dunglass-bridge at the north-eastern limit of
the parish, i6 another object of unusual interest.
This is a little bay surrounded by precipices up-
wards of 100 feet high, and looking out upon the
cliff and cathedral-like rock and extended sea-view
which constitute the chief attractions of the coast-
scenery. At one part of this romantic bay, the coast
is accessible only by a sloping tunnel, hewn out of
the soft rock, passing under ground for the space
of 60 or 70 yards, and merely wide enough to ad-
mit a horse and cart; and here, at the termination
of this remarkable approach to the sea, a pier has
been erected for the accommodation of fishing-boats.
— At Redheugh, somewhat less than a mile from
the south-eastern angle of the parish, a spot called
Siccar-point also possesses unusual attractions. Cele-
brated for geological phenomena — especially for the
remarkable junction which it presents between the
greywacke and the more modern rocks — it is, at the
same time, rich in natural beauty. Scrambling
down a lofty headland, which juts suddenly into the
sea, or descending a winding footpath which has
been erected for his accommodation down the slopes
of the precipitous sea-bauk, the tourist arrives at a
cavern of considerable capaciousness as to both
height and area, walks beneath a fretted roof of
glittering and variform calcareous stalactitic incrus-
tations, and sees himself guarded in by ranges of
cliffs and isolated rocks which so vex and tumultuate
and dash into spray the rolling billows as to manu-
facture a watery veil of no common beauty, sus-
pended over an expanded and interesting sea-view.
At the eastern extremity of the Lammermoors, in
the. high valleys through which the road passes to
Ayton, Dr. Buckland discovered, in 1839, traces of
moraines disposed in terraces at various elevations.
The only stream, except the rills which rise in its
own heights, is Eye water, which rises about a mile
to the west of it, in Haddingtonshire, and forms its
boundary on the south-west as long as it is coter-
minous .with the parish of the Abbey of St. Balkan.
During the whole of this part of" its course, the
river's banks are bare and unattractive. There are
several plantations, — patches of forest on the sides
of the narrow valleys, the wooded portion of the
demesne of Dunglass, and Pemesheil wood, which
covers about 300 acres. In 1834, there were in the
whole parish 550 acres under wood, 5,200 under
cultivation, and 3,838 never cultivated or constantly
in pasture ; and the total yearly value of raw pro-
duce was estimated at £19,580. Sir John Hall,
Baronet, is the most extensive landowner; and there
are four others. — Remains of military forts and en-
campments are numerous in the district, — particu-
larly in the vicinity of the ravines, which, in the
unsettled times of early histoiy and of the Border
raids, were formidable passes. Several of the forti-
fications are of British origin, — particularly a very
interesting one on the summit of Ewieside hill; and
others, if not erected by the Romans, are in the
viciuity of some traces of their presence, — many
urns and other articles obviously of Roman work-
manship, having, iu various localities, been un-
earthed by the plough. In addition to these mili-
tary vestiges of an early period, this parish contains
not a few interesting relics of more recent feudal
times, — ■
" the mouldering balls of barona bold."
Dunglass castle, immediately beyond the north-east-
ern boundary of the parish, and "the seat of Sir John
Hall, Baronet, was originally a fastness of the Earls
of Home. See Dunglass. — A more interesting
place is Cockburaspath tower, which stands on the
edge of a strong pass or ravine nearly in the centre
of the parish, nodding, in venerable ruin, over the
great road from Berwick to Edinburgh. Though
never, apparently, a place of great extent, this
tower, owing to its commanding position, was
esteemed one of the keys of the kingdom of Scot-
land; and possessed so early as 1073 by the Earls
of Dunbar and March, it figured prominently in the
tumultuous scenes of the international wars. — On
the coast, about 2 miles from the eastern angle of
the parish, stand the rains of the old church of the
incorporated parish of Auldcambus; surmounting a
high, overhanging precipice, and commanding an
extensive and fascinating view. The building is a
specimen of simple Saxon architecture ; is supposed
to have been erected so early as the seventh cen-
tury ; and was dedicated to St. Helena, the mother
of Cnnstantine the Great. It is surrounded by a
small relinquished cemetery. Near this ruin there
were found, a few years ago, an ancient rosary and
numerous coins, — some of the coins comparatively
little defaced, and of the reign of Athelstan or Edel-
stan the Great, grandson of Alfred the Great. The
North British railway traverses the parish, passing
between the village of Cockburnspath and the sea,
having a station there, curving thence inland to-
ward the valley of the Eye, crossing the Tower
dean by an embankment 136 feet high, and pass-
ing through a tunnel at the head of Pease dean.
The village of Cockburnspath stands on the Edin-
burgh and Berwick road, about f of a mile from the
north-east limit of the parish, 8& miles south-east
of Dunbar, and 20 north-east of Berwick. An an-
tique cross stands in the middle of its streets. A
fair is held here on the second Tuesday of August.
Population of the village in 1851, about 250. Popu-
lation of the parish in 1831, 1,143; in 1851, 1,196.
Houses, 224. Assessed property in 1843, £8,648
3s. 6d. : in 1860, £10,002.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dunbar, and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend, £245 13s. 3d. ; glebe, £27. Un-
appropriated teinds, £76 lis. 5d. Schoolmasters
salary, £35, with about £30 fees. There is a sub-
scription school in the village of Cockburnspath,
and an endowed one in the district of Auldcambus.
The parish church is a very ancient structure, dat-
ing as far back at least as 1 163 ; but it has recently
had repairs, and contains sittings for about 400
persons. There is a Free chnrch for Cockburnspath,
whose yearly receipts in 1865 amounted to £134
15s. Id. There is an United Presbyterian church at
Stockbridge, about a mile south of the village of
Cockburnspath. There are likewise in the palish
a subscription library, and a friendly society. Auld-
cambus or Old Cambus anciently belonged to the
monastery of Coldingham, as a cell of Durham; the
Scottish Edgar having granted to St. Cnthhert's
monks of Durham its manor, with the appertaining
lands, tolls, shipwrecks, and other customary dues.
COCKENZIE, a village and small sea-port in the
parish of Tranent, Haddingtonshire. It stands on
the shore of the frith of Forth, on the coast-road
from Edinburgh to Aberlady and North Berwick,
in the western vicinity of the village of Portseaton,
and about a mile north-east of Prestonpans. The
harbour is a private one, constructed in 1 834, at a na-
tural basin on the west side of the village, at a cost
of about £6,000, by the proprietors of adjacent col-
lieries for the purpose of shipping coal. It has an
COCKLAW.
288
COLDINGHAM.
area of three acres, with an entrance of 90 feet in
width, and a depth of 15 feet between the piers. It is
of easy access, and may be taken at tide-time in any
weather. It is an excellent small harbour, and, if
required, is capable of great improvement. The
arrivals in 1846 were 144 vessels in cargo, of 12,811
tons; of these, 54 vessels were from the colonies or
foreign. The dues levied by " mutual consent "
were £50. About 35 fishing-boats also belong to
the port, all open, without any deck, but of the best
construction and largest class. A private railway,
about 3 miles long, connects the harbour with col-
lieries on the south side of Tranent. A chapel of
ease, containing 450 sittings, and capable of interior
enlargement, was built in the village in 1838. There
was also a Free church, whose yearly receipts in 1853
amounted to £102 9s. 4d. A fair was formerly held on
the first Thursday of November, but has gone nearly
into disuse. Population, 649.
COCKLAW, one of the Cheviot Hills, on the
mutual border of Scotland and England, at the
source of Beaumont Water, 8 miles south-south-east
of Yetholm. This name is bome also by several
other hills in Scotland.
COCKLERUE, or Cuckold Le Eoi, a hill, about
500 feet high, on the mutual border of the parishes
of Linlithgow and Torphichen, If mile south-south-
west of the town of Linlithgow. It commands a
veiy brilliant and very extensive prospect of the
basin and screens of the Forth, from Benlomond to
North Berwick.
COCKPEN, a parish, containing the villages of
Bonnyrigg, Dalhousie, Gowk's-Hill, Hillhead, Hun-
terfield, Polton- Street, Prestonholm, Skiltiemuir,
Stobhill-Engine, and Westmill, in Edinburghshire.
It is bounded by the parishes of Lasswade, New-
battle, and Carrington. Its length northward is 3J
miles ; its greatest breadth is 2J miles ; and its
area does not exceed 4 square miles. Its post-town
is Lasswade, situated immediately beyond the north-
west boundary. The South Esk enters the parish
from the south, intersects it for nearly 1^ mile, and
afterwards forms its boundary with Newbattle. The
banks of this river are here steep, bold, and beauti-
fully fringed with natural wood. The surface of
the parish is prevailingly flat, yet somewhat un-
even. The soil is a strong clay, and is highly
cultivated, abundantly luxuriant, and everywhere
shaded by enclosures and plantations. Coal is
plentiful, and successfully worked ; good freestone
abounds ; and a sort of moss is found whence copper-
as has been obtained. There are seven landowners,
the chief of whom is the Earl of Dalhousie. The
parish has consisted, since the 12 th century, of the
barony of Dalhousie, originally written Dalwolsie.
On the left bank of the South Esk, near the point
where that river is crossed by a fine bridge, stood the
old baronial castle of Dalhousie. This was anciently
an imposing edifice, of a square form and turreted ;
and, encompassed by a strong wall, as well as sup-
plied with other means of defence, was a place of
very great strength. Latterly^ it has been denuded
of its fortified dress, and, witli some traces of an-
tique appearance, has assumed a modern garb. The
ancient family of Ramsay, possessing since 1633 the
title of Earls of Dalhousie, have for ages been its
proprietors. Sir Alexander Ramsay of Dalhousie,
who lived in the 14th century, is celebrated as one
of the bravest warriors of that age. His gallant
behaviour at the battle of Otterbum is recorded by
Froissart. He was appointed by his sovereign
warder of the borders; and, out of envy, was
treacherously murdered by Douglas of Liddesdale.
See Castleton. The mansion of Cockpen belongs
also to the noble family of Ramsay ; and is situated
among romantic scenery. There is a paper-mill at
Westmill ; and there was formerly a flax-yam factory
at Prestonholm. The Hawick branch of the North
British railway traverses the east side of the parish,
and has a station at Dalhousie. Population in 1831,
2,025; in 1851, 3,228. Houses, 541. Assessed pro-
perty in 1843, £8,801 8s. 5d. ; in 1860, £12,582.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dalkeith, and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, the
Earl of Dalhousie. Stipend, £157" 5s. 3d.; glebe,
£21. Unappropriated teinds, £133 0s. 5d. School-
master's salary has been raised to £68. The parish
church is an elegant structure, built in 1820, and
containing 625 sittings. There is a Free church in
Bonnyrigg, whose yearly income in 1865 was £435
14s. OJd. There is likewise one at Stobhill, whose
yearly income in 1865 was £126 10s. 9£d. During
the Scoto- Saxon period Cockpen was a rectory, the
patronage of which belonged, as at present, to " the
Ramsays of Dalwolsie." In 1296 Malcolm de Ram-
say, the rector, swore fealty to Edward I., who com-
manded the Sheriff of Edinburgh to restore him to
his rights. The church of Cockpen seems to have
afterwards been granted to a fraternity of Cistertian
monks, who held it till the overthrow of popery at
the Reformation.
COCKPOOL. See Rothwell.
COE (The), a rivulet running along Glencoe, and
falling into Loch Leven at Invereoe, in the north-
east comer of Argyleshire. See Glencoe.
COGTEL BURN. See Peffeh.
COICH (The), or Quoich, a tributary rivulet
of the Dee, in the parish of Crathie, Aberdeenshire.
It descends from the southern and western slopes of
Benabuird, and pursues a south-easterly course,
through the forest of Braemar, till its junction with
the Dee, between Mar lodge and Allamore.
COIGACH (The Aird of), a district in the shire
of Cromarty, though surrounded by the shire of Ross.
It stretches along the eastern coast of Loch-Broom
into the Western ocean, and is comprehended in the
parish of Loch-Broom. It contains the beautiful
vales of Strathceannard and Ridorch. The popula-
tion of the district is about 2,000.
COILA (The). See Cotl (The).
COILLEBH KOINE. See Vexachoir (Loch).
COILLINTEOGLE. See Venachoir (Loch).
COILSFIELD. See Tabbolton.
COILTIE (The), a romantic rivulet of the
parish of Urquhart and Glenmoriston, Inverness-
shire. It rises among the north-western acclivities
of Mealfourvoume, at a height of perhaps 1,500 feet
above the level of the sea, and descends north-east-
ward, by way of the south-eastern margin of the
vale of Urquhart, to Loch Ness. Its length of
course, measured in a straight line, is not more than
7 miles ; yet it sometimes comes down with such
force and volume as to do great damage, even to
the destroying of houses and bridges. A little tribu-
tary of it, called the Divach, displays, amid fine
dense groves of birch, nearly as high and pictur-
esque a waterfall as that of Foyers.
COINNEAG. See Rosskeen.
COIR-NAN-URISKIN. See Katrine (Locn).
COIRUISK. See Corriskin (Loch).
COLBARN. See Katrine (Loch).
COLBRANDSPATH. See Cockbuensfath.
COLDINGHAM, a parish, containing the post-
office villages of Coldingham and Reston, and also
the village of Auchincraw, on the coast of Berwick-
shire. Except a detached portion, about 5 furlongs
long and 3J broad, which is imbosomed to the east
in the parish of Eyemouth, it is bounded on the
north by the German ocean ; on the east by the
German ocean and the parishes of Eyemouth and
COLDINGHAM.
289
COLDINGIIAM.
Ayton ; on the south hy the parishes of Chirnside
mill Bunclo; and on tlio west hy the parishes of
Ahhey St. Bathans, Oldhamstocks, and Cockburns-
path. Its extreme measurement, from east to west,
is ahout 8J miles, and, from north to south, about 8
miles ; and, including- its detached section, it cm-
braces an area of about 57,600 imperial acres. Its
surface is, for tho most part, very uneven. Several
ranges of hills, constituting part of the Lammer-
moor chain, run through it in parallel lines from
west to east, and file off to tho north to form the
celebrated headland called St. Abb's Head: which
see. The hills, however, are of inconsiderable ele-
vation, the highest, Wardlaw bank, being only 640
feet above the level of the sea ; and they are cloven
into ridges by intervening valleys of considerable
extent, watered by the Eye, the Ale, their respective
tributaries, and five minor streams, which all, with
two unimportant exceptions, traverse the parish
from west to east, and generally, near their em-
bouchure, turn northward to fall into the ocean.
Most of the flat lands are enclosed and arable ; but a
large portion of what is called Coldingham common
continues wild and waste. There is a tract of be-
tween 5,000 and 6,000 acres,— anciently a mixture
of moor, moss, and forest, hut afterwards denuded of
all its trees. Pennant, in passing through the dis-
trict in 1769, was chilled with the sight of "the
bleak, joyless, heathy moor of Coldingham." But
of late years several portions of this dismal tract
have been feued, and laid out in small farms, with
cottages on them, to the great relief of the general
landscape. The landed property of the parish is
divided among eleven principal owners and forty-
eight lesser ones. The total yearly value of raw
produce was estimated in 1834 at £52,550. The
assessed property in 1860 was £22,715. The road
from Edinburgh to Berwick passes through the
centre of the parish ; and the North British railway
passes along its south-west side, down the valley of
the Eye, and has one station on its northern verge
at Grant's House, and another at the village of
Eeston. The Dunse branch of that railway also
goes off at Eeston station, and runs some distance
in the parish.
A mile south- west of St. Abb's Head is Colding-
ham loch, 30 acres in superficial area, and 300 feet
above the level of the sea, though only about 300
yards' distant from the shore, and so bleakly situ-
ated that an attempt to tuft its sloping banks with
plantation has proved abortive. This lake is of a
triangular form, pellucid in its waters, several
fathoms in depth, and, though neither fed by any
rill, nor discharging itself by any outlet, is not ob-
served to be subject to fluctuation. The extent of
sea-coast in the parish is 6J miles in a direct line ;
but, along its wide and numerous windings, is 8 J or 9
miles. A considerable part of the shore, particularly
at Coldingham sands, and the farm of Northfield. is
smooth and of easy access, and, though nowhere im-
bosoming a harbour, is rife with fishing-boats. But,
in the neighbourhood of St. Abb's Head, the coast is
rocky and dangerous, abounding in caves and fis-
sures, once the retreat of smugglers, which are in-
accessible by land, and can be approached by sea
only at low water, and in the calmest weather.
On the hills to the west and south of it, about a
mile distant, are remains of ancient camps ; two of
these are of British origin, — the one on Emsheueh,
surrounded on three sides by lofty precipices, — and
the other on Wardlaw bank, encompassed with four
trenches. Three miles to the west of St. Abb's
Head, on a peninsular rock, stand the ruins of Fast
Castle : which see. At Eenton, at Houndwood,
at West Pieston, and at East Preston, were fort-
alices or castles, belonging to Logan of Fast castle,
all of which were demolished during tho last cen-
tury, to afford building materials for other purposes.
On the south side of the village of Coldingham, are
some remains of the celebrated priory of Colding-
ham. Not many years ago, the ruins were very ex-
tensive ; but they were rapidly dilapidated hy the
peasantry carrying away the stones for the erection
of their cottages. Only those parts of it now remain
which form the north wall and east gable of the pre-
sent parish church ; and these are remarkable for
chasteness of design, and impart a flattering idea of
the style of architecture during the transition from
the Norman to the early English period. At a shSrt
distance from the vestiges of the south wall are an
ancient building called Edgar's walls, — some frag-
ments of what were known as 'the King's stables,'
and a fountain, called St. Andrew's well, which
supplied the priory with water ; in various places
in the vicinity formerly stood stone crosses, the sites
of which are still known by the names Cairncross,
Friarscross, Crosslaw, Whitecross, and Applincross.
The priory of Coldingham was founded in the year
1098 by Edgar, king of Scotland, who, aided by
William Eufus to regain his kingdom, and fighting
under the banner of St. Cuthbert, gifted to him by
the monks of Durham, believed himself indebted
more to the saint's influence than to the swords of
Eufus' soldiers, and knew not how munificently to
express his gratitude by the donation of lands and
the erection of religious houses. In the fervour of
bis superstitious piety, he built the church of St.
Mary of Coldingham, gave possession of it to a col-
ony of monks from Durham, attended in person
the ceremony of its dedication, and opulently en-
dowed it with mulcts upon the villagers of Swinton,
with the lands of Fishwick and Homdean, and with
the lands, the waters, and " the men " of Paxton.
Malcolm IV., William the Lion, and Alexander II.,
severally confirmed the privileges bestowed by Ed-
gar, and added others. In 1127 Eobert, Archbishop
of St. Andrews, within whose diocese the priory
was situated, importuned by David I., and probably
influenced by Archbishop Thurston, and other dig-
nitaries of the English and the Scottish churches,
granted to this priory exemption from the exactions
and interference of the ministers of prelatic authority;
and this privilege, as powerfully perhaps as opulence
and greatness of monastic influence, contributed, in
the circumstances of the period, to exalt the inmates
of the priory to a high place among the agents who
moulded the interests of the nation. Subsequent
diocesans, however, abridged or attempted to re-
voke the exemption, and made demands or inroads
upon the priory, which frequently placed the monks
in ambiguous and embarrassing positions, and occa-
sioned disastrous appeals to the popes and to con-
ciliar interference. The priory was enthraUed, too,
by its colonial connexion with the monks of Dur-
ham ; the latter wielding the power of electing its
prior, and exercising a right concurrent with that
of its own inmates over its possessions. So arrayed
in the trappings of worldly glory was the office of
its prior, that, unlike any other ecclesiastic in the
kingdom, he maintained a retinue of seventy func-
tionaries, who bore titles, sustained appointments,
and shared a curious division of labour more befit-
ting the magnificence of a princely court than the
mortified retirement of a cloister. The priors of
Coldingham mingled much in the political intrigues
of their country, and figure somewhat flauntingly
on some pages of its history ; yet, they could not
prevent the rebound upon themselves of detrimental
and even devastating interferences from at once
freebooters, nobles, kings, and popes. Their priory,
COLDINGHAM.
290
COLDSTREAM.
on account of its patron saint being venerated
highly and alike on both sides of the Border, suffered
less from the raids of its vicinity than other estab-
lishments of its class in a similar position. But it
was devoted to plunder by King John, as unap-
peased by slaughter and unsatiated with prey, he
retired from Lothian in 1216; and in 1305, it was
handed over, as to all its revenues and immunities,
by Pope Benedict XI., to Hugh, bishop of Biblis,
who had been expelled by the Saracens from the
Holy Land. Escaping, through the interference
and protection of the English crown, the strangely
intended infliction of the Pope, the priory, during
the regency of the Duke of Albany, in the feeble
reign of Robert III., passed, by the act of its own
inmates, under the surveillance of Alexander, the
laird of Home, as underkeeper of it for the powerful
family of Douglas ; and it, in consequence, soon
became limited in its resources and shorn of its
authority, and eventually acknowledged the family
of Home as the lords of all its possessions. James
III. attempted to suppress the priory, and to annex
its property to a chapel at Stirling ; and he not only
obtained his parliament's sanction to the project,
but, with their concurrence, sent envoys to Borne
to procure the assent of the Pope. But the Homes,
enraged at the attempt, conspired with the Hepburns,
under the auspices of the Earl of Angus, to de-
throne the King, and eventually, on the 11th of June,
1488, achieved his death in a fray near Stirling.
During the reign of James IV. the priory continued
to he oppressed or rather appropriated by the Homes.
In 1509 it was, by the Pope's authority, detached
from the superiority of the monks of Durham, and
placed under the abbey of Dunfermline ; but it was
now lorded over, first by Alexander Stewart, the
King's natural son, who already held the archbish-
opric of St. Andrews and the abbacy of Dunfermline,
and who soon after fell in Flodden, fighting by the
side of his father, — next by David Home, Lord
Home's seventh brother, who continued to be prior
till he was assassinated by James Hepburn of
Hailes, — next by Bobert Blackadder, who, with six
domestics, was assassinated by Sir David Home, —
next by William Douglas, Lord Angus' brother,
who seized the office by mere intrusion, and suc-
cessfully resisted all efforts to expel him, — next by
Adam, who, in 1541, was removed to Dundrennan,
to make way for John Stewart, the infant and ille-
gitimate son of James V. During John Stewart's
infancy, the King enjoyed the revenues ; but found
his possession of them less undisputed and luxurious
than any of his ecclesiastical predecessors. In No-
vember, 1544, the church and tower, after being
seized by the English, were successfully held
against the regent, Arran ; and in September, 1545,
the abbey, during the devastating incursion of the
Earl of Hertford, was set on fire and partially con-
sumed. After the death of John Stewart, who now
in his maturity drew the revenues, John Maitland
was appointed to the commendatorship, and re-
tained its rich endowment till 1568, when he was
created a senator of the College of Justice. James
VI. then bestowed it on Francis Stewart, the eldest
brother of the former commendator, and, with his
usual imprudence, afterwards created him Earl of
Bothwell, abbot of Kelso, constable of Haddington,
sheriff of Berwick, bailie of Lauderdale, and high-
admiral of Scotland, giving him at the same time
vast estates, and receiving in return no expression
of feeling but accumulated vexations and treasons,
which at last, in 1595, occasioned the turbulent
ingrate to be expelled the country. The possessions
of the priory were now bestowed first on the Earl of
Home, and next— after the former's death in 1619
— on John, the banished Earl of Bothwell's second
son, who was the last commendator of Coldingham.
Tradition says that, when the abbey was destroyed,
the sonorous bell of the church was carried to Lin-
coln, and that it still loads the breezes around that
city with its powerful tones.
The village of Coldingham stands in a vale, on
the east side of the parish, 1 mile west of the near-
est part of the shore, 2 miles east of the Edinburgh
and Berwick road, 3 north-east of Boston, and 11
north-west by north of Berwick. A little rivulet
of excellent water washes its northern and southern
sides. The village consists of a few rows of incon-
siderable houses, and is a burgh of barony under
the Earl of Home. It is surrounded with rising
fields of gentle ascent; none of which, however,
commands a view of more than half-a-mile distant.
Several of the adjacent crofts appear from old writ-
ings, and from vestiges of the foundations of old
buildings, to have been once the sites of houses and
gardens; so that the village must anciently have
been much more extensive than at present ; though
we know that in 1561 it contained only 32 houses.
Two yearly fairs are held here, but have long been
little more than nominal. The village has a small
subscription library and a total abstinence society.
About twenty families of the inhabitants are fisher-
men ; and this circumstance closely connects the
place with the picturesquely situated fishing- village
of Northfield, a mile distant at the shore, all whose
inhabitants are simple, unsophisticated fishers. A
boat harbour was erected there in 1833, by the Fish-
ery Board, aided by subscription, at an expense of
£1,200. Population of Coldingham village in 1861,
655. Population of Northfield in 1844, about 150.
Population of the parish in 1831, 2,746; in 1861,
3,241. Houses, 622.
This parish is in the presbytery of Chimside, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £267 2s. lid.; glebe, £25. Unappropri-
ated teinds, £492 15s. 5d. Two parochial school-
masters have each £35 salary, and about £20 school
fees ; and one has about £60 or £70 from endowed
sources. The parish church is supposed to have
been built about the 1 - th century, and has been
frequently repaired, but never enlarged; sittings,
827. There are a quoad sacra parish church and a
Free church at Houndwood. There is a United
Presbyterian church, with 609 sittings, in the vil-
lage of Coldingham. There are six non-parochial
schools. The district of Laverock, or Leveret-Law,
which was returned as a separate parish in 1821
and 1831, and was returned as part of the parish of
Ayton in 1841, has been decided by the Court of
Session to belong to the parish of Coldingham.
The population of this district in 1841 was 91.
COLDINGHAMSHIRE, an ancient jurisdiction
in the east of Berwickshire, comprehending the
parishes of Coldingham, Eyemouth, Ayton, Lam-
berton, and Auldcambus, and parts of the parishes
of Mordington, Foulden, Chimside, Buncle, and
Cockbumspath, amounting altogether to about one-
eighth of the superficies of Berwickshire. The na-
ture of the jurisdiction is ill-defined, but seems to
have been chiefly if not wholly ecclesiastical, and
connected with Coldingham priory..
COLDKOCHIE. See Redgorton.
COLDSTONE. See Loqie- Coldstone.
COLDSTEEAM, a parish, containing a post and
market town of the same name, on the southern
border of Berwickshire. It is bounded on the east
and south by the river Tweed, which divides it
from England ; and on other sides by the parishes
of Eccles, Swinton, and Ladykirk.- Its length
north-eastward is nearly 6 miles ; and its greatcs'
COLDSTREAM.
291
COLDSTREAM.
breadth is 3? miles. The rivulet Lcet flows on
part of the western boundary, and through a wide
part of the interior to the Tweed at the town ; and
two indigenous burns, Graden and Shiells, flow to
the Tweed in the north-east. The general appear-
ance of the country is flat. The soil for the most
part is rich and fertile ; near the Tweed it is light ;
but it inclines to clay as it falls back from the river.
A broad tract, from east to west, was naturally bar-
ren moor, but is now nearly all reclaimed. Cold-
stream is situated at nearly equal distance from the
Cheviot and Lammcrmoor hills ; and when the
weather is showery, especially if the wind he wes-
terly, the clouds usually take the direction of one
or other of these ranges of hills, pour down their
contents upon them, and leave this district un-
touched. Much more rain falls at Dunse and
Wooler than at Coldstream. The elevation of Cold-
stream bridge is CI feet above Berwick pier. The
river Tweed here produces trouts, red fish, grilse,
salmon, and all other kinds of fish common to the
rivers in the south of Scotland. The gross rent of
the parish, in the end of last century, was about
£6,000 sterling; the rent of the fishings, £93. The
gross rent in 1834 was about £12,000; the rent of
the fishings about £100; the estimated value of
growing timber, the greater part of which is on the
Hirsel estate, £1S,000; and the estimated total
yearly value of raw produce, £28,182. The as-
sessed property in lS60was £17,780. Excellent sand-
stone is worked in several quarries. The principal
mansions are Lennel-House, the seat of the Earl of
Haddington, where Patrick Brydone, Esq., author
of the well-known Tour in Sicily, spent the latter
years of his long life ; the Hirsel, the seat of the
Earl of Home; Lees, the seat of Sir John Marjori-
banks, Bart.; Milne-Graden; and Castlelaw. But
there are altogether ten principal landowners. The
road from Kelso to Berwick passes along the south-
ern border of the parish, to a point about a furlong
east of the town, and there crosses the Tweed by a
very handsome bridge of five arches. The view
from almost every part of it, but especially from the
bridge, is exceedingly brilliant. Population of the
parish in 1831, 2,897; in 1851, 3,245. Houses, 465.
This parish is in the presbytery of Chirnside, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Earl
of Haddington. Stipend, £233 7s. 2d.; glebe, £40.
Schoolmaster's salary, £34 4s. 4d., with £75 fees,
and £30 10s. other emoluments. The parish church
was built in 1795, and contains 1,100 sittings.
There are in the town a Free church and two
United Presbyterian churches. The yearly contribu-
tions of the Free church there in 1865 amounted
to £280 17s. The attendance at the East U. P.
church in 1851 was 500; at the West U. P. church,
550. There are several non-parochial schools, — one
of them with the rank and reputation of an academy.
Previous to the Keformation there was in the town
a rich priory of Cistertian nuns, founded by Cospa-
trick, Earl of Dunbar; but of this building not a
fragment now remains. In clearing, in 1834, a
piece of ground said to have been formerly part of
the burying-ground of the priory, a trench was dis-
covered full of human bones, probably the remains
of persons of note who fell in the battle of Flodden,
whose corpses were brought in carts to Coldstream
by order of the lady prioress for burial in conse-
crated ground. The ancient name of the parish
was Lennel or Leinhall; and the ruins of Lennel
church stand on the north bank of the Tweed, li
mile distant from Coldstream. Eastward from this
church, there was formerly a village called Lennel,
which was so entirely destroyed in the Border wars,
that the site of it is not now known. According to
Chalmers, the parish of Leinhall appears in charters
as early as the year 1117. When Cospatrick, Earl
of Dunbar, founded the Cistertian nunnery at Cold-
Stream, he gave it the church of Layn-el, with half
a carucate of land at Layn-cl, and another half
carucate at P.irgham. And Denier, his Countess,
granted to the same nunnery the church of Hirsel,
and a carucate of land, which the Earl confirmed.
In this manner were the churches of Leinhall and
Hirsel invested in the same religious house; but the
church of Hirsel came afterwards to he considered
only as a chapel, subordinate to the church of Lein-
hall. The church of Hirsel stood on the lands of
Hirsel, which form the south-western part of the
parish. The church of Leinhall continued in the
possession of the prioress of Coldstream till the Re-
formation; and it preserved its ancient name for a
century and a half after that epoch. In 1716 a new
parish-church was built at the village of Coldstream,
and the designation of the parish was afterwards
taken from the kirk-town.
The Town of Coldstream stands en the Kelso
and Berwick road, in a pleasant situation, adjacent
to the high steep bank of the Tweed, 9J miles
north-east by east of Kelso, lOf south-south-west of
Dunse, and 14j south-west of Berwick. The river
Leet skirts it on the south-west. The town for-
merly derived consequence from a ford over the
Tweed, the first of any importance which occurs in
following the stream upward from Berwick. By
this passage, Edward I. entered Scotland in 1296;
and many other, both Scottish and English armies,
before the union of the crowns, made their way by
it to ravage the country of their respective enemies.
It was last used by a Scottish army, as an entrance
into England, in 1640. The town is noted in his-
tory also for a truce concluded in 1491 between
Scotland and England, and for having been the
head- quarters of General Monk before he marched
into England to restore Charles II., — and the place
where he raised the remarkable regiment which is
still called the Coldstream Guards. " The town of
Coldstream," says an old writer, " hath given title
to a small company of men, whom God made the in-
struments of great things; and, though poor, yet
honest as ever corrupt nature produced into the
world by the no-dishonourable name of Coldstream-
ers." They were formed by Monk from the two
regiments of Fenwicke and Hesilrige. They were
chiefly Borderers, — tried and hardy men, who cared
little for the cause of either King or Commons, but
loved their leader, and followed him with blind and
obstinate obedience through all his changes of opi-
nion and fortune. It was, however, the fashion of
the soldiers of the Commonwealth to be austere and
addicted to praying and preaching ; and in this the
men of the Coldstream corps, it appears, were not
backward, for we have the undeniable testimony of
Bishop Burnet in their favour. " I remember
well," said he, " these regiments coming to Aber-
deen; there was an order and discipline and a face
of gravity and piety amongst them, that amazed all
people." At the head of these soldiers Monk went
up one side of Scotland and down another; storming
castle after castle, town after town, discomfiting
and dispersing all enemies of the Commonwealth,
from Berwick to Dundee, and from Dundee to Dum-
fries. The Coldstream guards remained, on the
whole, ten years in Scotland; and during that
period they were recruited chiefly by Scottish re-
publicans. When confusion ensued on the death of
Cromwell, Monk marched at their head, dispersed
the army of Lambert, entered London, dissolved the
Commonwealth, and restored King Charles. Mac-
pherson relates, that Monk reviewed his men on
COLDSTREAM.
292
COLINTON.
'.he arrival of the King; desired them to ground
their arms, and consider themselves disbanded ; then
lie commanded them to take them up and consider
themselves no longer the soldiers of the Common-
wealth, but of the Crown. The history of the Cold-
stream Guards has been recorded in a recent publi-
cation by Colonel Mackinnon.
The town is irregularly built, but contains many
excellent houses, and has a cleanly agreeable ap-
pearance. The parish church is a neat edifice.
The dissenting churches are commodious buildings.
There are two good inns, the Newcastle Arms and
the Commercial. There is a small lock-up house.
The town is lighted with gas. There are an excel-
lent public library, several benevolent and friendly
societies, a savings' bank, a branch office of the
Bank of Scotland, and a branch office of the
British Linen Company's Bank. There are also a
town-hall and reading-room, — the gift of the Earl of
Home. The inhabitants are well supplied with
water, through the bounty of Sir John Marjoribanks,
Bart., and have expressed their gratitude by the erec-
tion of an obelisk. A cattle market is held on the last
Monday of every month, and a corn market on every
Thursday. The town suffered serious injury to its
marketing interests by the Kelso and Berwick line
of railway being projected along the south side in-
stead of the north side of the Tweed, yet has access
to it at the Cornhill station, less than two miles dis-
tant. It also suffered a serious recent loss by the
failure of the Coldstream Bible Free Press scheme,
— which arose out of the noble successful efforts
of the Rev. Dr. Adam Thomson of Coldstream to
abolish the Scottish Bible monopoly, and promised
to give permanent advantage and celebrity to
the town, but unhappily proved uncompensating.
Coldstream is a burgh-of-barony. The two supe-
riors, the Earl of Haddington and the Earl of Home,
appoint the bailie, and give him a salary of £21.
Coldstream, like Gretna-Green, had long a bad fame
for irregular marriages; and among others Lord
Brougham was married here in the principal inn.
Population in 1841, 1,913; in 1861, 1,834. Houses,
281.
COLDSTREAM (New), a village in the parish of
Coldstream, Berwickshire. Population, 150.
COLE'S CASTLE, an ancient and remarkable
fortification upon a rock in the Blackwater of
Strathbeg, about 1J mile north from the junction of
that river with the water of Brora, in Sutherland-
shire. It is a circular building, 54 yards in circum-
ference round the base on the outside, or 18 in dia-
meter; 27 yards in circumference, and 9 yards dia-
meter within; the walls are 4| yards, or 13 J feet
thick in the base, built of large stones, well-con-
nected, without any cement. The building has a
batter or inclination inwards of 9 inches in every 3
feet in height. The door on the south-east side is
3J feet high, and 2J feet broad. In the middle of
the wall, on each side of the passage by the door to
the interior, is a small apartment, about 6 feet
square and 5 feet high, as if intended for a guard to
watch the entry. It has been greatly injured by
the wantonness of cow-herds throwing the mate-
rials off the walls into the river. Beyond this
building, and 6 feet from the wall, are the remains
of an outer wall which surrounded the castle, and
an oblong garden of 27 yards long and 18 yards
broad. This wall seems to have been joined by
large flags to the wall of the castle, leaving a pas-
sage of 6 feet broad by 7 feet high between the two
walls, where it is said the inhabitants kept their
cattle in the night time. The building altogether1
is one of the most entire of what are called Pictish
towers; and must have been the stronghold of a
chieftain or a tribe. In the face of the rock is an
oblong seat, where tradition says, Cole used to rest
himself, fronting the meridian sun, and that there
he was slain with an arrow from the bow of an as-
sassin. When Cole felt the wound, he struck his
hand upon the rock, which made such an impression
that it remains there to this day.
COLFIN, a railway station in Wigtonshire, 3
miles north-east of Portpatrick.
COLGRAVE SOUND. See Yell.
COLINSBURGH, a small post and market town
in the parish of Kilconquhar, Fifeshire. It stands
on the road from Elie to Cupar, and on that
from Largo to Anstruther, 2 J miles north-north-west
of Elie, 4 east of Largo, and 10 south-east by soutli
of Cupar. The Commercial Bank has an agency
here; and justice-of-peace and circuit small debt
courts are held here five times in the year. The
town has a weekly corn-market on Wednesday,
and two annual fairs on the 2d Friday in June
and October. It is a place of considerable thorough-
fare ; and has a good inn and posting establishment.
It is a burgh-of-barony under the Balcarres family,
and received its name from Colin, 3d Earl of Bal-
carres. Balcarres house is in the vicinity ; near it
rises Balcarres craig, a rock of 200 feet altitude.
There is an United Presbyterian meeting-house in
the village. Colinsburgh is a remarkably healthy
place. Not long ago there were 18 individuals in
its small population whose united ages amounted to
1,552 years. Population, 438.
COLIN'S-ISLE. See Inchinnak.
COLINTON, a parish, containing the post-office
villages of Colinton, Slateford, and Juniper-Green,
and also the villages of Hailes-Quarry, Swanston,
and Longstone, in Edinburghshire. It is bounded
by the parishes of Corstorphino, St. Cuthberts, Liber-
ton, Lasswade, Glencross, Penicuick, and Came.
Its greatest length from north to south is about 4
miles ; and its greatest breadth from east to west
about 3| miles. The surface is beautifully varied,
descending from the northern range of the northern
Pentlands toward the plain of Corstorphine, in di-
versified and occasionally bold undulations. Along
its southern limit the Pentlands rise in the different
summits 1,450, 1,550, and 1,700 feet above the level
of the sea ; and toward the north-east are the pictur-
esque heights of the Fir hill and Craig-Lockhart
hill. There is an extensive sandstone quarry at
Redhall, which a few years ago paid £1,100 of
yearly rent. There is also an extensive paving
sandstone quarry at Hailes. Over a distance of 3
miles the parish is intersected by the water of
Leith, ploughing its way through well-wooded and
romantic banks, and turning the wheels of numerous
water-mills. Three rivulets or rills also enrich it
with their waters, — Murray-burn, Braid-burn, and
Burdiehouse-burn. Many excellent springs exist on
the lands of Comiston, Swanston, and Dreghorn,
from which the city of Edinburgh long received its
chief artificial supply of water. In the 17th century
this parish appears to have been a wild and unculti-
vated tract; and so late as 1709, it contained only
318 examinable persons. Now, however, it is in
general in a state of high cultivation, its lands
beautifully enclosed with hedge-rows, and tufted
with plantation ; and even on the acclivity of the
Pentlands, at an elevation of 700 feet above the level
of the sea, some lands have recently been rendered
arable. The real rental is about £13,250. There
are eleven landowners. The principal mansions
are Colinton House, Bonally Castle, Craig-Lockhart
House, Comiston House, and Dreghorn CaBtle. The
Union canal and the Edinburgh fork of the Cale-
donian railway go across the northern district of the
COLIPOLE.
293
COLLESSIE.
parish ; and the latter has a station in it at Slateford.
The Roman road from York to Camden, near Aber-
oorn, passed along a section of the parish. In 166G
the Covenanters, marching from the west, spent the
night of the 27th Novemher in the village of Colin-
ton ; and next day marched toward the Pentlands,
and fought in the skirmish of Eullion-Green. The
village of Colinton is situated on the water of Leith,
near the centre of the parish, 4 miles south-west of
Edinburgh. Here are two flour mills; and in the
neighbourhood are two paper manufactories. The
poet Ballantync, in his tale of the Miller of Dean-
haugh, speaks of Colinton " with its romantic valley,
its long rows of cottages embedded in the hollows,
its shoals of rosy urchins, its myriads of white ducks,
its kail yards, and their rows of currant bushes, its
cheerful old matrons, with their close-eared caps,
and its healthy old carles, with their broad blue
bonnets, seated on door-stones sunning themselves."
He also alludes beautifully to the sylvan pathway,
threading the mazes of wood, "deep, deep, down in
the beautiful dell of Colinton." Population of the
village in 1851, 120. Population of the parish in
1831, 2,232; in 1861, 2,656. Houses, 465. As-
sessed property in 1860, £15,714.
This parish is in the presbytery of Edinburgh,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patrons, the
Communicants. Stipend, £207 lis. 3d.; glebe, £40.
Unappropriated teinds, £207 lis. 3d. Schoolmaster's
salary now is £50, with about £25 or £30 of other
emoluments. The parish church was built in 1771,
repaired in 1817, aud enlarged in 1837, and contains
about 660 sittings. There is a Free church in
Colinton, whose yearly receipts in 1865 amounted
to £142 17s. 8|d. There is an United Presbyterian
church at Slateford, erected in 1784, and containing
520 sittings. There are six private schools and one
or two friendly societies.
COLIPOLE, a village in the island of Luing,
parish of Kilbrandon, Argyleshire.
COLL, a Hebridean island, forming part of the
parish of Tiree, in Argyleshire. It lies seaward of
Mull, and extends north-eastward in a line between
Tiree and Muck. Its distance from Tiree is two
miles, from Mull 7 miles, and from Ardnarnurehan
Point 9 miles. Its length is about 14 miles, and its
average breadth about 24 miles. Two-thirds of it
are hills, rocks, shifting-sands, lakes, and morasses ;
the other third is pasture, meadow, or com land.
Its surface is diversified with eminences, and
covered with a very thin stratum of earth, which in
many places is wanting, so that a grey, stony, sur-
face, without herbage of any kind, presents itself to
the eye; but in other quarters the sandy soil is
covered during spring and summer with an en-
amelled carpet of brilliant and odorous plants.
None of the hills have a greater elevation than about
300 feet above sea-level. The lakes are numerous
and shallow ; and several of them contain trouts and
eels. The coast in general is rocky and bold. A
bay called Loch Breacacha runs about a mile into the
south side of the island, and affords a tolerable an-
chorage in summer. At the head of this stands the
mansion of the principal landowner, and in its
mouth lies the small verdant islet of Soay. Many
bloody conflicts were fought in the old times be-
tween the Macleans of Coll and the Macneils of Barra
for the possession of Coll, terminating eventually in
the complete triumph of the former. The old castle
of Breacacha, formerly the residence of the chiefs of
the Macleans, was probably built before their time
by some of the Lords of the Isles. There are on
the island vestiges of eight Danish forts and three
ancient religious houses. There are also two ancient
standing- stones about six feet high. Kahbits are
very numerous in Coll. A great many black cattle
are fed on the island, insomuch that about 300 head
of them arc annunlly exported. A vast number ol
pigs also are reared, and are found very profitable.
Sheep likewise, of both the black-faced and the
Cheviot breeds, have been introduced. About 150
tons of kelp used to he. annually made on the island ;
but about the year 1837 this manufacture totally
ceased. In 1843 there belonged to Coll 2 decked
vessels, 3 half-decked vessels, and 12 fishing-skiffs.
The island has a post-office station of its own name,
subordinate to Tobermory. It has also a village
called Arinangour : which see. An assistant min-
ister, appointed by the parish minister of Tiree, with
consent of the proprietor of Coll, exercises a pastoral
care over the island. His stipend is £62 2s. The
church stands near the middle of the island, was
built about the year 1802, and contains 350 sittings.
There is also a Free church ; and the yearly sum
raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £120 0s.
lljd. Population of Coll in 1841, 1,442 ; in 1861,
781. Houses, 184.
COLLACE, a parish, containing the villages of
Collaee, Kinrossie, and Saugher, in the Gowrie
district of Perthshire. It is bounded on the north
east by Forfarshire, and on other sides by the
parishes of Cargill, St. Martin's, Kinnaird, and Aber-
nyte. The post-town nearest it is Burrelton or
Balbeggie. The parish is somewhat upwards of 2
miles in length, and about the same in breadth ;
and contains an area of nearly 5 square miles. The
northern division is flat, and consists, in some parts,
of a light black loam, and in others of sandy and
mossy tracts. The southern division is a rapid ac-
clivity, and rises into a section of the Sidlaw hills
of considerable elevation. These hills, with the
exception of, Dunsinnan, are covered with heath ;
yet, in their northern declivity, they, in some places,
are under culture, and in others, afford tolerable pas-
turage. All the ground in the lowlands of the par-
ish is in a state of the highest cultivation. The
principal mansion and the most noted antiquities
are on the estate of Dunsinnan. See Dunsinnan.
About 560 acres are under wood. Two quarries of
excellent sandstone are worked. The total yearly
value of all the raw produce of the parish was esti-
mated in 1837 at £8,314. Assessed property in
1866, £3,394 16s. 2d. Many of the inhabitants are
linen weavers. The parish is traversed by the road
from Perth to Cnpar- Angus, and has easy access to
the Woodside station of the Scottish Midland Junc-
tion railway. The village of Collaee stands near the
centre of the parish, 8 miles north-east of Perth.
Population of the village in 1851, 191. Population
of the parish in 1831, 738; in 1861, 534. Houses, 134.
This parish is in the presbytery of Perth, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £155 15s. Id.; glebe, £15. Unappropriated
teinds, £68 lis. 5d. Schoolmaster's salary now is
£45, with about £30 10s. of other emoluments.
Collaee was formerly a rectory. The present church
is a fine Gothic structure, erected in 1813, standing
on an elevated spot, surrounded with plantation,
and containing upwards of 400 sittings. There is a
Free church, with an attendance of 410 ; and the
yearly sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was
£88 18s.
COLLEGE LOCH. See Terregles.
COLLEGE OF ROSEISLE, a hamlet in the
parish of Duffus, Morayshire.
COLLEGE PARISH. See Glasgow and Edin-
burgh.
COLLESSIE, a parish, containing a post-office
village of its own name, and also the villages of
Edenton, Giffordton, Kinloch, Ladybank, and Monk-
COLLESSIE.
294
COLMONELL.
ston, in the north-west of Fifeshire. It is bounded by
Abdie, Monimail, Cults, Kettle, Falkland, Auchter-
muchty, Abernethy, and Newburgh. Its western
boundary is near the town of Auchtermuchty. Its
greatest length south-eastward is 8 miles ; and its
greatest breadth is 5 miles. The southern division
is remarkably flat, very various in soil, and entirely
free from stones, great or small. The northern and
north-western divisions slope upwards toward a
range of heights which form the boundary, and hav-
ing a fine southern exposure and a good deep soil
upon a whinstone bottom, are in a state of high cul-
tivation, and extremely fertile. The central divi-
sion is in general light and sandy, and is covered to
the extent of several square miles with fir-plan-
tations ; and though on account of its timber, far
from being valueless, has resisted assiduous attempts
to bring it into an improved state. In 1740, Eossie
loch, a sheet of water covering upwards of 300 acres,
was drained ; and its bed is now excellent meadow-
land and pasturage. The river Eden runs for about
3 miles along the southern boundary of the parish.
It abounds With fine trout, but is never here more
than 25 feet broad. Both here and farther on its
course, it gives name to the strath which forms its
basin, and glides noiselessly along through ' the
Howe of Fife.' Formerly, in spring and autumn, it
used to overflow its banks, and do considerable
damage; but about 1787, it was diverted into a
straight channel, so as to offer no repetition of in-
jury to the adjacent property. Excellent whinstone
is found in the parish, and extensively used in build-
ing. Sandstone, though found, is not worked ; and
marl, both shell and clay, is abundant. The climate
is remarkably salubrious. The mansions inhabited
by landowners are Eankeilour, Pitlair, Kinloeh,
Lochie-Head, and Eossie. The total yearly value
of raw produce was estimated in 1836 at £24,745.
Assessed property in 1866, £10,847 8s. 6d. The
road from Auchtermuchty to Cupar traverses the
parish eastward; and the Perthward branch of
the North British railway traverses it north-west
ward, and has stations in it at Ladybank and
Collessie. Not far from Collessie, on the west, are
the remains of two castles, supposed to have been
erected for securing the pass from Newburgh to
central Fifeshire. Near the eastern one, which was
anciently encompassed by a ditch, have been found
coins of Edward I. of England, struck in mints at
London, Canterbury, and York, as well as an urn
containing human bones and various relics of an-
tiquity. Among the eminent men connected with
Collessie, were Sir James Melville, who figured as
a courtier in the reign of Mary, and was the pro-
prietor of an estate in this parish, — and Dr. Hugh
Blair, who commenced his ministry here, and was
inducted to it in September, 1742. The village of
Collessie is situated about a mile south of the north-
ern angle of the parish, a little northward of the
road from Auchtermuchty to Cupar. It is a con-
fused collection of thatched houses, and a place of
small importance. Population of the village in
1851, 210. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,162 ;
in 1861, 1,530. Houses, 345.
This parish is in the presbytery of Cupar and
synod of Fife. Patron, Johnston of Lathrisk.
Stipend, £223 4s. 9d. ; glebe, £15. Unappropriated
teinds,£367 18s, 4d. Schoolmaster's salary, £35 12s.
10Jd., with about £30 of other emoluments. Col-
lessie was formerly a vicarage. The parochial
church is a very old building, and does not contain
more than 400 sittings. There is a Free church,
with an attendance of 300; and the yearly sum
raised in connexion with it in 1865, was £183 15s.
Id. There are two non-parochial schools.
COLLIN, a village in the parish of Torthorwald.
Dumfries-shire. It stands 3J miles east of Dum-
fries, on the road thence to Annan. Population in
1861, 318. See Tokthorwald.
COLLINTON. SeeCoLiNTOH.
COLLISTON, a fishing village in the parish of
Slains, adjacent to Oldcastle, and within a short
distance of Newburgh, Aberdeenshire. The fishers
take cod and turbot in winter at a distance from the
coast, and haddocks and whitings at other times
Great quantities of haddocks are smoked with turf,
and small ones dried into speldings. The place is
prosperous ; and the manners of the inhabitants
superior to those of many of the peasantry. Popula-
tion, 410.
COLLISTON, a hamlet in the parish of St-
Vigeans, 3 miles north-west of Arbroath, Forfar-
shire. Here is a Free church, whose yearly re-
ceipts in 1865 amounted to £16 8s. 9d. — Here
also is a small flax mill. The Arbroath and Forfar
railway passes adjacently, and has a station here.
Colliston house, in the vicinity, is an old mansion
belonging to the family of Chaplin, and is said to
have been built by Cardinal Beaton for his son-in-
law.
COLLOCHBUEN, one of the connected villages
of Cambuslang, Lanarkshire. It is inhabited princi-
pally by Weavers and non-agricultural labourers.
Population, 166.
COLLTJTHIE. See Mokzie.
COLLYLAND. See Coalylanu.
COLMKILL. See Skte.
COLMONELL, a parish, containing the post-
office villages of Colmonell and Barrhill, in the dis»
trict of Carrick, Ayrshire. It stretches across the
county, from Galloway to the frith of Clyde, be-
tween Ballantrae on the south, and Barr and Gir-
van on the north. Its length is about 19A miles ;
and its greatest breadth 7. It comprises a series oi
valleys and hill-screens, watered by the Stinchar
and its tributaries ; the valleys containing a good
deal of fertile holm, and none of the hill-screens
rising higher than about 700 feet above the level oi
the sea. There are several small lakes. One oi
the hills, called Knockdolian, rising in a conical
shape to a considerable height, is a conspicuous
landmark to vessels when they enter the frith of
Clyde. A great part of the parish is enclosed, and
agriculture is now in a highly improved condition.
The hills on both sides of the Stinchar consist for
the most part of mountain limestone. The Duchess
de Coigny is the most extensive landowner ; and
there are numerous others. If the whole area of the
parish be classified into 57 parts, 51 of these are
moorland or pasture, 3, or a little more, are subject
to the plough, 2 are meadow-land, and nearly 1 is
under wood. The total yearly value of raw produce
was estimated in 1838 at £16,200. The assessed
property in 1860 was £17,308. The principal man-
sions are Drumlamford, Ballochmorie, Penmore,
Dalgerrock, and Knockdolian. Craigneil is a fine
ruined fortalice of the 13th century. There are a
number of ancient forts and cairns, concerning the
erection of which tradition itself does not even haz-
ard a conjecture. The parish is traversed by the
several roads from Girvan to Galloway. The vil-
lage of Colmonell stands on the most westerly of
these roads, and on the right bank of the Stinchar,
5 miles north-east of Ballantrae. It was not long
ago little else than a row of thatched houses ; but it
now consists chiefly of recently-built, slated houses,
and has a neat, tidy, thriving appearance. It is
one of the polling-stations of the county. Fairs are
held in it on the first Monday, old style, of Febru-
ary, May, August, and November. Population oi
COLMSLIE.
295
COLVEND.
the village in 1861, about 3(52. Population of the
parish in 1831, 2.213; in 18(31, 2,588. Houses, 440.
This parish is in the presbytery of Stranraer and
synod of Galloway. Patron, the Duchess do Ooigny.
Stipend, £256 18s. \>.\.: glebe, £15. Unappropriated
teinds, £260 16s. lid. Schoolmaster's salary now
is £35, with about £20 fees, and £63 other emolu-
ments. The parish church was built in 1850, and
contains 500 sittings. There is a chapel of ease at
Arnsheen, whose minister is appointed by the male
communicants. There are two Free church con-
gregations,— the one at Colmonell, and the other at
Barrhill ; contributions of the former in 1S65, £78
lis. 6d.,— of the latter, £103 14s. 9Jd. A new
place of worship for the latter was built in 1854.
There is also a United Original Secession church
at Colmonell. And there is a Reformed Presbyte-
rian church at Poundland. There are in the parish
six non-parochial schools.
COLONSAY, a Hebridean island, in the parish of
Jura, Argyllshire. It is separated from Oronsay
only by a narrow sound which is dry at low water ;
so that the two islands may be considered as one.
They extend lengthwise nearly north and south, —
Colonsay on the north and Oronsay on the south ;
and the southern extremity of the latter lies 4 miles
north-west of the northern extremity of Islay, and
7 miles west by north of the south-western extre-
mity of Jura. They are 12 miles long, and from 1
to 3' broad. The surface is unequal, having a con-
siderable number of rugged hills covered with heath ;
but none of the eminences deserve the name of
mountains. They contain about 9,000 acres, of
which 3,000 are arable. The soil is light, and along
the shore it inclines to sand, producing early and
tolerable crops. " The first sight of Colonsay," says
Macdonald in his General View of the Hebrides, " is
very unpromising, and would not lead a traveller to
expect the fertile and pretty extensive valleys which
he meets with in traversing the island. Although
there are no hills of any consequence, or which ex-
ceed an elevation of 800 feet above the level of the
sea, yet their tops are hare and weather-beaten, and
convey the idea of hopeless barrenness and desola-
tion. These hills are scattered irregularly over the
island ; and, in fact, it is from the decomposition of
their materials that the soil of the valleys is formed,
and it is their shelter which affords warmth and fer-
tility to the cultivated grounds. The soil is various.
In some parts, especially at the two extremities,
and in some bays on the west side, it is light and
sandy ; then alternates with moorish or mossy
ground, clay, gravel, loam, or till ; but, as Dean
Monroe says, it is ' ane fertile isle' upon the whole,
and has of late years by good management made a
conspicuous figure among the improved Hebrides.
Black talc — the Mica lamellata, Martialis nigra of
Crousted — is found here, both in large detached
flakes, and immersed in indurated clay ; also rock-
stone formed of glimmer and quartz ; and an imper-
fect granite is not unfrequent. The dip of the rocks is
from south-west to north -east, as is very often the case
in the adjacent isles." The breed of cattle is excel-
lent. Near the centre of Colonsay is a fresh water
loch called Loch Fad. The only landowner is
Macneil of Colonsay ; but there are two mansions,
the one in Colonsay and the other in Oronsay. A
considerable extent of ground has been planted ; and
a variety of great general improvements have been
made. The remains of several Romish chapels are
to be seen in Colonsay, where was also a monas-
tery of canons regular of St. Augustine, founded by
the Lord of the Isles, who brought the monks from
Holyroodhouse. The remains of the abbey were
taken down some years ago in erecting a farm-
house. The priory of this monastery, the walls o(
which — about 00 feet by 18 — arc still standing, is
in Oronsay ; and, next to Icolmkill, is esteemed the
finest relic of religious antiquity in the Hebrides.
The remains of these ruins are very interesting, but
no accounts are remaining of their revenues or esta-
blishments. Martin says : " There is an altar in
this church, and there has been a modem crucifix
on it, in which several precious stones were fixed ;
the most valuable of these is now in the custody of
Mac-Duffle, in Black Raimused village, and it is
used as a catholieon for diseases. There are several
burying-places here, and the tombstones, for the
most part, have a two-handed sword engraven on
them. On the south side of the church within, lie
the tombs of Mac-Dufiie, and of the cadets of his
family ; there is a ship under sail, and a two-handed
sword engraven on the principal tombstone, and
this inscription, ' Hie jacet Malcolumbus Mac-Duffle
de Colonsay :' his coat-of-arms and colour-staff is
fixed in a stone, through which a hole is made to
hold it. There is a cross at the east and west sides
of this church, which are now broken ; their height
was about 12 feet each: there is a large cross on
the west side of the church, of an entire stone, very
hard ; there is a pedestal of three steps, by which
they ascend to it ; it is 16 feet high, and a foot-and-
a-half broad. There is a large crucifix on the west
side of this cross ; it has an inscription underneath,
but not legible, being almost worn off by the injury
of time ; the other side has a tree engraven on it.
About a quarter of a mile on the south side of the
church there is a cairn, in which there is a stone
cross fixed, called Mac-Duffle's cross, for when any
of the heads of this family were to be interred, their
corpses were laid on this cross for some moments, in
their way toward the church. The natives of Co-
lonsay are accustomed, after their arrival in Oron-
say isle, to make a tour sunways about the church,
before they enter upon any kind of business." A
good harbour, called Portnafeamin, exists in Colon-
say. It has a substantial quay, and is one of the
best places in the Hebrides for repairing vessels.
Near it is a small neat inn; and a good road leads
from it to the interior. Extensive fishing is carried on
for cod and flat fish. A church for Colonsay and Oron-
say was built in 1802, contains 400 sittings, and is
served by a permanent assistant minister, who has
a stipend of £50. An old tradition, fully credited
by some ecclesiastical historians, asserts that Co-
lumba, the famous founder of Culdeeism, bad an
establishment in Colonsay before he went to Iona.
Population of Colonsay and Oronsay in 1831, 893 ;
in 1861, 581. Houses, 102.
COLONSAY (Little), a small island of the Ar-
gyllshire Hebrides, lying off the west side of Mull, in
the mouth of Loch-na-Keal, between Ulva a>v!
Stafta. It in many places exhibits specimens of
basaltic pillars similar to those of Staffa, and is in-
habited by one family, who look after a few sheep.
COLQTJHALZIE. See Trinity Gask.
COLSAY, a small island, off the west side of the
southern peninsula of the mainland of Shetland,
about 8 miles north-north-west of Sumburgh-Head.
It pastures a g od many sheep of an English breed.
COLTFIELD, a hamlet in the parish of Alves,
Morayshire.
COLTSTON, a thriving village in the parish of
New Monkland, Lanarkshire.
COLVEND, aparish, containing the post-office sta-
tions of Southwick and Lochend in Kirkcudbright-
shire. It is of an irregular elliptical figure ; and
forms on the south a sort of peninsula, protruding,
from the boundary waters of the Urr and the Sonth-
wick, onward into the sea. It is hounded on the
COLVEND.
296
COMELY-BANK.
north by the parishes of Eirkgunzeon and New-
abbey ; on the east by the parish of Kirkbean ; on
the south-east, south, and south-west, by the sea ;
and on the west by the estuary and the parish of
Urr, and the parish of Kirkgunzeon. Its greatest
length, from Thorter-fell on the north to Castle-
Hill Old Fort on the south, is nearly 9 miles ; and
its greatest breadth, from Tororie meeting-house on
the east to the confluence of Shennan creek and
Urr water on the west, is 7^ miles. The surface is
extremely rough and irregular; and is in general
wild, hilly, and merely pastoral. Much labour has
been employed to overcome the obstacles of heath
and rock ; and, meeting occasionally with a good
substratum of soil, it .has been rewarded in the sub-
jugation of valuable patches to the plough. But a
constant undulation of rugged hills puts a material
limit to improvement. Along the northern verge
the heights are considerably elevated, and form
summits of the range which terminates in the far-
seeing mountain of Criffel, at the northern limit of
the conterminous parish of Kirkbean. The sea-
coast is extremely bold and rocky, rising up in almost
perpendicular precipices, and presenting a variety
of grand and magnificent views. The sea or Sol-
way frith, which intervenes between it and Cum-
berland, is here 9 or 10 miles wide. When the tide
ebbs, it leaves dry a large tract of flat sand, from
which may be viewed along the coast, high and
pointed spires, perforated at the base with natural
tunnels ; there may also be seen spacious amphi-
theatres, and entrances to caverns so spacious as to
have been hitherto unexplored. Toward the east,
however, approaching the mouth of Southwick
water, the coast becomes entirely flat. Urr water,
bo far as it bounds the parish, is an estuary; being
3 furlongs broad where it comes in contact with it,
and 2 miles where it leaves it for the sea. Shennan
creek rises within the limits of the parish, and, near
its source, begins to form the boundary line, for one
mile, till its confluence with the Urr. Southwick
water, receiving a number of tributaries which flow
from the northern heights of the parish, and tra-
versing its central district, forms, for a considerable
way, its boundary on the east. Other streams, of
small size and local origin, intersect the district
from north to south, and flow into the sea. There
are, in the western division, 5 lakes, 3 of which are
severally about half-a-mile in length. A copper
mine and two mill-stone quarries were formerly
worked. The chief landowners are M'Kenzie of
Auchenslieoch, Hilton of Fairgirth, Stewart of
Southwick, and Oswald of Auchencruive. Colvend,
according to tradition, was once a continuous forest;
and it is still tufted, in some spots, with natural
wood, as well as with recent plantation. At Fair-
garth, near the centre of the parish, is a copious
spring of excellent water, arched over, and called
St. Lawrence well ; and near it are the vestiges of
a chapel, surrounded by a burying-ground, now
occupied as a barn-yard. At the south-west corner
of the parish, on a lofty promontory, are traces of
what appears to have been a Danish fort, the fosse
of which is still very apparent. Population in
1831, 1,358; in 1861, 1,366. Houses, 274. As-
sessed property in 1860, £7,930.
Colvend is one of 10 parishes which, though
within the shire of Kirkcudbright, are in the pres-
bytery and synod of Dumfries. Patrons, the Crown
and the Duke of Buccleuch. Stipend, £234 14s. 6d. ;
glebe, £20. The teinds were exhausted in 1824.
There are 2 parochial schools. The first school-
master's salary is now £40, with about £20 fees;
and that of the second is also £40, with about £34
additional emoluments. There is also a private
school. The suppressed parish of Southwick is
incorporated with Colvend, and sometimes occasions
the united parishes to be designated Colvend and
Southwick. It formed the eastern division of the
district. Though the ruins of its church still ex-
ist in a very romantic small strath about a mile
north-west of the embouchure of Southwick water,
not a tradition remained, even before the close of
last century, of any circumstance relating to it as a
separate charge. The present parochial church is
situated about a mile from the south-west limit of
the parish, and was built about 83 years ago. An
United Presbyterian church stands at the other ex-
tremity of the parish. Colvend was formerly a
vicarage ; but Southwick church belonged to the
Benedictine nunnery of Lincluden.
COLZEAN CASTLE, a noble castellated edifice,
the seat of the Marquis of Ailsa, in the parish of
Kirkoswald, Ayrshire. It stands on a basaltic clifi
projecting into the sea, of about 100 feet in height,
and ahnost perpendicular. The plan and design
were by Robert Adam ; and such is the style of the
architecture, the execution of the work, and the
beauty of the stone, that, more than any other build-
ing in Ayrshire, it impresses the mind with ideas
of elegance, order, and magnificence. At a short
distance from the castle stand the stables and farm-
houses, planned by the same architect, and executed
upon the same scale. The entire buildings, with
the bridge of approach to the castle, cover four acres
of ground. The castle commands, from the princi-
pal apartments, a delightful prospect of the frith of
Clyde, with a full view of the rock of Ailsa. On
the land side, and immediately below the castle, are
the fine gardens belonging to the old house of Col-
zean, formed in three terraces, and long celebrated
for their beauty and productiveness. The remain-
der of the old gardens has been formed into plea-
sure-grounds and gravel walks, which are kept with
great care. Bound the castle, and the adjoining
buildings, lies an extensive policy of about 700
acres, interspersed with ancient trees and thriving
plantations. Near the castle, and immediately
under some of the building's, are the Coves of Col-
zean. These coves or caves are six in number.
Of the three towards the west, the largest has its
entry as low as high water mark ; the roof is about
50 feet high, and has the appearance as if two large
rocks had fallen together, forming an irregular
Gothic arch. It extends inward about 200 feet, and
varies in breadth. It communicates with the other
two, which are both considerably less, but of the
same irregular form. Towards the east are the
other three coves, which likewise communicate with
each other. They are nearly of the same height
and figure with the former. It has been matter of
dispute whether these coves are natural or artificial.
The largest of the three westmost has a door, or
entry, built of freestone, with a window three feet
above the door, of the same ldnd of work; and
above both these, there is an apartment, from which
stones and other missiles might be hurled on the
assailants of the door. This last circumstance seems
to indicate that at least this part of the coves has
been at one period or another the abode of man.
COMBS (St.), a fishing-village in the parish of
Lonmay, 6 miles south-east of Fraserburgh, Aber-
deenshire. The yearly value of the fisheries here
is about £1,600; and the yearly rental paid to the
proprietor of the village is about £62. The fisher-
men go with their herring-boats to Fraserburgh.
Population, 305.
COMELY -BANK, a village in the parish of
Melrose, Roxburghshire.
COMEBAICH. See Arr-i.KCKOss.
COMRIE.
297
CON.
COMGILL. See Reav.
COMISTON. See Coi.inton.
COMLONGAN. See Ruthwbu..
COMMONHEAD, a station on tlio Monklands
railway. J a mile north-east of Airdrie.
COMRIE, a parish, containing the post-office
village of Comvio, and also the villages of Ross,
Dalginross, and St. Fillans, at the head of the
Btrathearn district of Perthshire. It is hounded by
Killin, Weem, Kenmorc, Dull, Monzie, Monivaird,
Mutb.il, Callander, and Balquhidder. Its length
eastward is 13 miles; and its greatest breadth is 10
miles. Three glens converge at the village of
Conine, Strathearn from the west, Glenlednock from
the north-west, and Glenartney from the south-west;
and these, together with their hill-screens, and
some minor lateral glens, constitute nearly all the
parish. The boundary line on all sides except the
east, and except in the defile at the head of Loch
Earn, is a watcv-shed of the frontier Grampians.
The loftiest summits are Benchonzie and Benvoir-
lich, respectively 2,923 and about 3,300 feet above
the level of the sea. The principal waters are Loch
Earn, the river Earn, and the rivulets Ruchill and
Lednock. The scenery jof the parish comprises
every style, from the delicately beautiful to the
rudely savage, — from the softest valley ground to
the most rugged mountain. The scenery of the
Strathearn district, in particular, displays mixtures
of wood and rock, of witchery and romance, of
wildness and lusciousness, which almost rival those
of the Trosaehs and Loch Katrine, and at the same
time possess beauties peculiarly their own. A view
from Lord Melville's monument, and some other
views from the Strathearn vantage-grounds, are
among the richest in Scotland. The proportion of
arable land, as compared to the waste or pastoral
land, is but a trifle more than as one to eight. The
soil of the arable land is generally light and gra-
velly, but in some places deeper and swampy.
About 3,150 acres are under wood. Mica slate is
the predominant rock; but granite, primitive lime-
stone, clay slate, whinstone, and old red sandstone
also occur. One limestone quarry, two slate quar-
ries, and a number of whinstone quarries are
worked. Iron ore abounds, and was at one time
extensively smelted. The principal landowners are
Lord Willoughby D'Eresby, Sir David Dundas,
Bart., and four others. The real rental is about
£13,000. The principal mansions are Dunira,
Ardvoirlich, Aberuehill, Dalhonzie, and Comrie-
House. The chief antiquities are remains of three
Druidical circles, and the distinct profile of a Ro-
man camp of 16 acres in extent, — the latter situated
in the plain of Dalginross, in the vicinity of the
village of Comrie, and supposed by some antiquaries
to mark the site of the battle fought between Agri-
cola and Galgacus. For other matters in the parish
see the articles Earn (Loch), Earn (The), Ledsock
(The), Ruchil (The), Glenledxock, and Glenaet-
ney. Population in 1831, 2,622; in 1861, 2,226.
Houses, 391. Assessed property in 1866, £13,401.
This parish is in the presbytery of Auchterarder,
and synod of Perth and Stirling. It comprises the
old parishes of Comrie and Duudurn, trie greater
part of Tulliekettle, and portions of Muthill, Monie-
vaird, and Strowan, which were annexed in 1702 by
the commission of teinds. At the same time a por-
tion of the parish was annexed, quoad sacra, to Bal-
quhidder. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £250 9s.
id.; glebe, £15 10s. Schoolmaster's salary is now
£45, with about £45 fees. The parish church was
built in 1804, and contains 1,026 sittings. There is
a Free church, whose yearly receipts in 1865
amounted to £2S1 2s. Ufd. There is in the village
of Comrie an United Presbyterian church, which
was about to bo rebuilt in 1866.
The Viixaoe of Comrie stands on the north bank
of the Earn, near the influx of the Lednock, on the
road from Crieff to Tyndrum, 6i miles west of Crieff,
and 12J east of Lochearnhead. It consists princi-
pally of a street above two-thirds of a mile in length.
It formerly had a large distillery, and still has a
woollen manufactory, and carries on a considerable
trade in cotton weaving. The parish church is a
handsome building, with a lofty conspicuous spire.
Lord Melville's monument, about li mile distant,
on a site overhanging the Lednock, is a well-pro-
portioned granite obelisk, 72 feet high. The village
has an office of the Commercial Bank, an office of
the City of Glasgow Bank, a subscription library, an
industrial school, and gas-works. Fairs are held on
the third Wednesday of March, on the second
Wednesday of May and July, on the eighth day of
November, and on the first Wednesday of Decem-
ber. Comrie is a burgh of barony under Sir David
Dundas; but the baron-bailie resides in Perth, and
local duty is done by a number of constables, one of
whom perambulates this village, and also the neigh-
bouring villages of Ross and Dalginross. Popula-
tion of Comrie in 1841, 803; in 1861, 789.
The village of Comrie and its neighbourhood
enjoy the unenviable distinction of being more fre-
quently visited by earthquakes, and subterranean
noises and convulsions, than any other spot in the
British isles. The greatest shock ever experienced
here occurred on the evening of October 23d, 1839,
about 14 minutes past 10 o'clock. It was felt over
a great part of the island, but nowhere so violently
as at Comrie and the adjacent districts. A reporter
at Monzie — a gentleman's seat a few miles from
Comrie — thus describes what was experienced at
that place and its neighbourhood : — " At thirteen
minutes past ten in the evening, we heard a sound
like that of a numerous body of cavalry approaching
at full gallop along a grassy sward. When this
had continued a few seconds, we felt two or more
abrupt concussions, as if a solid mass of earth had
struck against a body more ponderous than itself,
and rebounded. The rattling of furniture combined
with the subterranean thunder, and the reeling of
what we had hitherto deemed terra Jlrma, commu-
nicated at this moment a feeling of the terrific that
must have made the stoutest heart quail. The
sound passed off as before, far to the east, carrying
fear into other districts. In a number of houses the
bells rang; one house of three stories, situated in
Crieff, has been rent from the chimney-top half-way
down the gable ; and we have heard that a number
of corn-stacks have been thrown down. At Comrie
the consternation was such that the people ran out
of their houses, and, late as was the hour, many as-
sembled for prayer in the Secession meeting-house,
where religious exercises were continued until 3 in
the morning. There was a second shock at 20
minutes to 11 o'clock, and a third somewhat later,
but both inferior to the first." A great deal of dis-
cussion has taken place, in all sorts of periodicals, as
to the probable cause of these phenomena; but this
as yet is all mere theory — as applicable to earth-
quakes anywhere else as to earthquakes at Comrie
— and much more suitable to be noticed in works on
natural science than in any work on topography.
COMYN'S CASTLE. See Kirkmahoe.
CON (Loch), or Chon, a lake in the parish of
Aberfoyle, Perthshire, forming one of the series of
lochlets, in the vale of Aberfoyle, which discharge
their waters into Loch Ard. It is about 2 miles to
the west of Upper Loch Ard. Its length is some-
what more than 2 miles ; and its breadth about 1
CONAN.
298
CONTIN.
It is bounded on the south by a precipitous moun-
tain, finely fringed towards the west with aged
birches, and on the north with woods of ash and
oak. There is a heronry on a small island in this
lake.
CONA WATER. See Glencoe.
CONACHAN. See Kilda (St.).
CONAN (The), a river of Eoss-shire. It issues
from Loch Chroisg, a lake 5 miles in length, at the
western extremity of the parish of Contin, about 15
miles east-north-east of the head of Loch Torridon.
It flows eastwards from its source through Strath-
bran; and after receiving the Gradie from Loch
Fannich, flows into Loch Luichart or Lichart.
Issuing thence through a deep gorge, interesting
alike to the geologist and the lover of the pic-
turesque, it is precipitated over a ledge of rock, and
flows in a south-east direction, and receives the
Meig or Meag flowing from Loch Benachan north-
eastwards through Strathcoran. Five miles below
this it receives, on the north side, the Garve, which
rises on the confines of Loehcross, and flows east-
south-east. Two and a half miles east of its junc-
tion with the Garve, while sweeping in a semicir-
cular form round the finely-wooded grounds of
Castle-Brachan, it receives the Orrin from the south-
west; and then turning north, at Conan house, it
flows into the western extremity of the frith of Cro-
marty. Its length of course is about 35 miles. Its
breadth at its mouth is about 50 yards; but it is
comparatively shallow here, although throughout
much of its course it is a deep dark-coloured stream.
It is a fine trouting-stream, and there are valuable
salmon-fisheries upon it. All the Strathbran lakes
— which are veiy numerous — are celebrated for the
sport which they afford to anglers. In the Conan is
found the river-mussel, the Mya margaritifera of
Linnseus; and fine pearls have occasionally been
obtained from them.
CONAN-BRIDGE, a village with a post-office in
the Eoss-shire district of the parish of Urquhart
and Logie-Wester. It stands on the right bank of
the Conan, 2i miles south-south-west of Dingwall,
on the road thence to Beauly. It takes its name
from a stone bridge of five arches, with a water-way
of 265 feet, which was here erected over the Conan
by the Parliamentary Commissioners in 1809, at an
expense of £6,854. The village has a station on the
Highland railway, and a good inn ; and is prosper-
ous. Population in 1861, 501.
CONANSIDE. See Urquhart and Lqgie- Wes-
ter.
CONDOEAT, a village in the parish of Cumber-
nauld, Dumbartonshire. It stands on the road from
Glasgow to Stirling, 2J miles south-west of the vil-
lage of Cumbernauld. It is inhabited principally
by cotton-weavers, and has a slightly endowed
school. Population, 559.
CONINGSBUEGH, an ancient parish, now an-
nexed to Dunrossness, in the southern part of the
mainland of Shetland. The hamlet of Conings-
burgh stands on the east coast, 9 miles south-south-
west of Lerrick. The Free church of Coningsburgh
had in 1853 a total yearly receipt of £94 3s. lid.
CONNAGE, or Fisherton, a fishing-village in the
parish of Petty, Inverness-shire. The fishermen
dispose of their produce at Inverness. The timber
of woods cut down in the eastern parts of the parish
is shipped at the beach here.
CONNAL FEEEY, a strait in Loch Etive, 3
miles east of Dunstaffnage, Argyleshire. A ridge
of rugged and uneven rocks here runs across two-
thirds of the channel, and occasions, at certain peri-
ods of the ebbing or flowing tide, such a rapid cur-
rant that no vessel even with a fresh breeze can
stem it. In the beginning of the flood, the tide
runs up with great rapidity, and Loch Etive being
at once swelled with the spring-tide from the ocean,
and the water of Loch Awe, as soon as the former
begins to ebb, discharges itself with a violence and
noise unequalled by the loudest cataract, and which
may be heard at the distance of many miles. This
celebrated fall of salt water seems to be alluded to
by Ossian : —
"These are not thy mountains, O Nathos!
Nor is that the roar of thy climbing waves."
The ferry of Connal, though in appearance very
formidable, is safe, owing to the skill of the boat-
men.
CONNEL (Loch). See Kirkcolm.
CONNICAVAL. See Edenkeilue.
CONON-BRIDGE. See Conan-Bbidge.
CONTENT. See Qurvox (St.) and Wallacetown.
CONTIN, a parish in the centre and south-east
of Eoss-shire. The post-towns nearest it are Ding-
wall and Strathpeffer. The parish is bounded on
the north by Lochbroom ; on the east by Uiray and
Fodderty ; on the south by Kilmorack and Urray ;
and on the west by Gairloch and Lochcarron. It
measures, along the parliamentary road which
passes through it, 33 miles ; and it is supposed to
be little less in breadth ; so that, as to extent of
area, it is one of the largest parishes in Scotland.
It is, in general, mountainous and barren ; yet im-
bosoms numerous glens and valleys, which are
well-watered, and, though of light and shallow soil,
are in good cultivation. The principal streams are
the Conan, the Meig, and the Easay, which rise
near the western or north-westem verge of the par-
ish, and all traverse it eastward, to make a junction,
and fall, under the name of the Conan, into Cro-
marty frith, a few miles from the town of Dingwall:
see Conan. Perennial springs are abundant ; and
several are strongly impregnated with iron. Lakes
are numerous, — most of them mossy in their waters,
but all abounding with fish. Loch Fannich is 12
miles long, and 1 broad; Loch Chroisg, 5 miles
long, and 1 broad; Loch Luichart, 6 miles long,
and £ mile broad. Loch Achilty is about 2
miles in circumference, pure in its waters, very
deep, and discharging its surplus contents by a
subterranean canal into the river Easay, about a
mile to the north-east. In this lake is an artificial
island, accessible by a drawbridge, and formerly
the site of a house and garden, which were used as
a retreat from danger. Loch Kinellan has also an
artificial or floating island, buoyant on a timber
base, where formerly the family of Seaforth had a
fortified residence ; and it contrasts the green culti-
vated field on one of its sides very picturesquely
with the wild upland scenery on the other. At one
period, natural plantation appears to have covered
the greater part of this parish ; and even yet it ex-
ists in considerable patches. All the straths are
subject to wasteful inundations; and the climate,
though generally mild and dry, is insalubrious. On
the eastern bank of Loch Achilty is a Draidical
temple, or circle of stones ; and a quarter of a mile
to the east of Loch Kinellan is a place called Mar'
na'n Ceann, or ' the field of heads,' where there was
a fierce conflict between the Mackenzies of Seaforth
and the Macdonnells of Glengarry, — the Macdon-
nells having made an inroad to revenge some old
quarrel, and being routed and pursued with great
slaughter by the Mackenzies, and eventually driven
headlong into the water and drowned at the conflu-
ence of the Conan and the Easay. On the farm of
Kinellan is an echo which repeats distinctly an
entire sentence, and is believed to be unequalled.
COOKNEY.
299
COKNCAIRN.
except by an echo in Wales, and another in Staffa.
At Coul, in the eastern section of the parish, is an
elegant mansion, the seat of Sir George Mackenzie,
Bart., built in 1821, and surrounded by a beautiful
well- wooded demense. At Contin inn, on the
Kasay, fairs are held on 13th January, old style;
on 23d May, old style ; and on 23d August, if a
Wednesday," if not, on the Wednesday after. And
here there is a ferry across the river ; and about 3
miles to the west, at a place called Little Seatwell,
is a ferry across the Conan. — Population, in 1861,
1,509. Houses, 317, Assessed property in 1843,
£0,405 19s. 7d. ; in 1860, £10,014._
Contin, formerly a vicarage, is in the presbytery
of Dingwall, and S3'nod of Ross. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £265 6s. 7d.; glebe, £16. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50, with about £10 fees.. The parochial
church, situated about 2 miles from the extreme
verge of the parish, is an antiquated, comfortless
structure, repeatedly repaired, but continuing to be
incommodious. Two parliamentary churches are in
the parish, — one at Ceanloch-Luichart, erected in
1825, — and the other in Strathconan. There is a
Free church for Contin and Podderty, with an at-
tendance of 700; and its yearly receipts in 1865
amounted to £131 4s. Hid. There is also a Free
church preaching station at Strathconan, whose
yearly receipts in 1865 amounted to £9 2s. 6d.
There are three non-parochial schools.
CONVAL. See Besmoke.
CONVETH. See Kiltarlity.
COOKNEY, a locality 4J miles north of Stone-
haven, where is a chapel-of-ease to the parish church
of Fetteresso, Kincardineshire. The chapel is of
modern erection, and contains about 700 sittings. ■
COOK'S CAIRN. See Mokteach.
COPAY, one of the Hebrides, in the shire of In-
verness. It constitutes part of the parish of Harris,
and is situated in the sound. It is uninhabited.
COPENSAY, or Copinshay, one of the Orkneys,
and part of the parish of Deemess. This island is
about a mile long, and half-a-mile broad. In the
summer months, its lofty rocks are covered with
wild fowl of various kinds, which, with their eggs
and feathers, constitute the principal article of its
traffic.
COPPERSMITH. See Cockburnspath.
COQUET (The), a river, whose sources, course,
and embouchure, are all in England, but which
forms, for about a mile, the south-east boundary
line of the parish of Oxnam in Roxburghshire. It
rises a little to the south of this parish, in the
heights which divide Scotland from England, and
afterwards glides along the margin of its southern
wing ; but it then bends away eastward into Nor-
thumberland, and after traversing that county and
receiving numerous tributaries, falls into the sea at
Alnwick.
CORBELLY. See Dumfries and Troqueer.
CORBIE HALL. See Carstairs.
CORBIE-HILL, a hamlet at the west end of the
parish of Balmerino, Fifeshire.
CORBIE-POT, a romantic glen, notable for its
botanical specimens, on the boundary between the
estates of Maiyculter and Kingcausie, parish of
Marvculter, Kincardineshire.
CORCHINNAN BURN. See Bogie (The).
CORE (The), the remotest head-stream of the
Tweed, in the parish of Tweedsmuir, Peebles-shire.
It rises near one of the loftiest watersheds of the
Hartfell mountains, on the property of Earlshaugh,
and runs 3£ miles north-westward to a confluence
with the smaller burn, which has the reputation of
being the true Tweed, about a mile, below Tweed-
Bbaws.
COREEN HILLS, a range of high hills along the
northern boundary of the district of Alford, Aber-
deenshire. Its highest ground, in what are called1
the Points of Coreen, on the boundary of the parish
of Tullynessle, has an elevation of about 1,350 feet
above sea-level.
COREHOUSE. See l!lyde (The).
COREMILLIGAN. See Tynron.
CORGARF, a wild mountainous district around
the sources and head-streams of the Don, Aber-
deenshire. It measures 8 or 9 miles in length, and
forms the upper part of the parish of Strathdon. A
missionary minister on the Royal Bounty, with a
salary of £60 and some other advantages, has long
been stationed here. The church was built in 1836,
and contains 350 sittings. Here also is a small Ro-
man Catholic chapel, served by the same clergyman
who has charge of the chapel at Glengairn. Cor-
garf castle, supposed to have been originally built
by one of the Earls of Mar, is a military station on
the road from Edinburgh to Fort George; 21 J miles
distant from Castleton of Braemar. The present
erection is a small oblong building of four stories,
with wings, and surrounded by a wall. It was pur-
chased by Government from Forbes of Skellater,
in 1746. The old castle of Corgarf, which stood on
the same site, was burnt by Sir Adam Gordon in
1551, when 27 persons, among whom were the wife
and children of Alexander Forbes, perished in the
flames. " Subsequent to this tragical affair," says
Picken's Traditionary Stories of Old Families, " a
meeting for reconciliation took place between a
select number of the heads of the two houses, in the
hall of an old castle in these parts, probably Drim-
minor. After much argument, the difference being
at length made up, and a reconciliation effected,
both parties sat down to a feast in the hall, provided
by the Forbes's chief. The eating was ended, and
the parties were at their drink — the clansmen being
of equal numbers, and so mixed, as had been ar-
ranged, that every Forbes had a Gordon seated at
his right hand. ' Now,' said Gordon of Huntly to
his neighbour chief, ' as this business has been so
satisfactorily settled, tell me if it had not been so,
what It was your intention to have done.' ' There
would have been bloody work — bloody work,' said
Lord Forbes — ' and we would have had the best of
it. I will tell you: see, we are mixed one and one,
Forbeses and Gordons. I had only to give a sign
by the stroking down of my beard, thus, and every
Forbes was to have drawn the skein from under his
left arm, and stabbed to the heart his right hand
man ; ' and as be spoke, he suited the sign to the
word, and stroked down his flowing beard. In a
moment a score of skeins were out, and flashing in
the light of the pine-torches held behind the guests.
In another moment they were buried in as many
hearts; for the Forbeses, whose eyes constantly
watched their chief, mistaking this involuntary mo-
tion in the telling of his story, for the agreed sign
of death, struck their weapons into the bodies of the
unsuspecting Gordons. The chiefs looked at each
other in silent consternation. At length Forbes
said, ' This is a sad tragedy we little expected — but
what is done cannot be undone, and the blood that
now flows on the floor of Drimminor will just help
to sloaken the auld fire of Corgarf! "
CORIA DAMNIORUM. See Castle-Cary.
CORKINDALE-LAW. See Neilston.
CORNCAIRN, a village in the north end of the
parish of Ordiquhill, 8 miles south-west of Banff,
and 12 north-east of Keith, Banffshire. It is a
burgh of barony. Six markets in the j'ear, com-
monly called the Comhill markets, are held in it;
vicinity.
CORNER HOUSE.
300
CORRISKLN.
CORNCOCKLE MOOR. See Lochmaben.
CORNER HOUSE, a post-office station subordi-
nate to Stranraer, Wigtonshire.
CORNHILL, a post-office station subordinate to
Keith, Banffshire. See Corncairn.
CORPACH, a village with a post-office, in the
parish of Kilmalie, Inverness-shire ; 2J miles north
of Fort- William ; at the southern extremity of the
Caledonian canal. The parish church is situated
here ; and there is a school supported by the General
Assembly. See Caledonian Canal.
CORRABHAIN. See Jura.
CORRA LINN. See Clyde (The).
CORRAH. See Klrkgunzeon.
CORRAN-ARDGOUR, a ferry across the lower
part of Loch-Eil, between the district of Ardgour in
Argyleshire and the district of Lochaber in Inver-
ness-shire. Here is a post-office station, subordi-
nate to Bunawe. Loch-Eil at this place has a
strong current.
CORRENIE FOREST, an undivided district,
occupied by free settlers, in the parish of Cluny,
Aberdeenshire.
CORRICHIE. See Fare and Kintore.
CORRIE, a village on the east coast of the island
of Arran, 4J miles north of Brodick. Here is a
small harbour with a quay, accessible to vessels
only at high water. In the vicinity limestone and
sandstone are extensively quarried; and the latter
is exported in large quantities to various parts of
the Clyde and to Ireland. Population of the village
222.
CORRIE, an ancient parish in Dumfries-shire,
now united to Hutton: which see.
CORRIEHABBIE. See Mortlach. -
CORRIEMONY. See Urquhart and Glenmo-
riston.
CORRIEMUCKLOCK. See Crieff.
CORRIEMULZIE. See Braemae.
CORRIEVIARLICH. See Almond (The).
CORRIEVREKIN, a narrow strait and a dan-
gerous whirlpool between the island of Scarba and
the north point of Jura, Argyleshire. The whirl-
pool is occasioned partly by the rapidity of the tidal
current through the narrow, irregular strait, and
partly by the resistance to it of a pyramidal rock
which shoots up to within 15 fathoms of the surface
from a depth of about 100 fathoms. The vicinity of
this rock is carefully shunned by small craft ; but
it is only during high and strong tides, or violent
gales, that it is at all formidable to large vessels.
The name, we are informed by Campbell in his
notes to ' Gertrude of Wyoming,' signifies ' the
whirlpool of the Prince of Denmark.' And there is
a tradition that a Danish prince once undertook for
a wager to cast anchor in it. He is said to have
used woollen instead of hempen ropes for greater
strength, but perished in the attempt. " On the
shores of Argyleshire," the poet adds, " I have
often listened with great delight to the sound of this
vortex, at the distance of many leagues. When
the weather is calm, and the adjacent sea scarcely
heard on these picturesque shores, its sound — which
is like the sound of innumerable chariots — creates a
magnificent and fine effect." The lines in Camp-
bell's noble poem in which allusion is made to this
whirlpool are as follows :
" But who is he, that yet a dearer land
Remembers, over hills and far away?
Green Albyn! What though he no more survey
Thy ships at anchor on the quiet shore;
Thy pellochs rolling from the mountain- bay;
Thy lone sepulchral cairn upon the moor;
And distant isles that hear the loud Corbrcchtan roar!"
The superstition of the islanders has tenanted the
shelves and eddies of this whirlpool with all the
fabulous monsters and demons of the ocean. Among
these, according to a universal tradition, the mer-
maid is the most remarkable ; and there is a Gaelic
legend — versified by Leyden, in the ' Border Min-
strelsy ' — which relates how Macphail of Colonsay,
while passing the Corrievrekin, was carried off by
one of these sea-maidens, and detained for several
years in a pleasant kind of captivity, in a grotto
beneath the sea. Therefore, mariners,
" As you pass through Jura's sound
Bend your course by Scarha's shore,
Shun, 0 shun! the gulf profound
Where Corrievrekin's surges roar."
So sings the poet; couching his advice, however, in
somewhat ambiguous language, for the sea gener-
ally exhibits a state of greater turbulence on the
Scarba than on the Jura side of the gulf.
CORRISKIN (Loch), Coiruisk, or Coruisk, a
deep, dark, lonely sheet of water imbosomed in the
Cuchullin mountains, on the western coast of Skye,
discharging itself by a rapid stream into Loch
Sclavig. It is about 2 miles in length, and half-a-
mile broad, and is said to be of profound depth.
Sir Walter Scott has described it in ' The Lord of
the Isles;' and the accomplished artist, Mr. J. W.
Turner, whose pencil was employed in delineating
the scene for the last edition of Sir Walter's works,
declares, " No words could have given a truer picture
of this, one of the wildest of Nature's landscapes."
A while their route they silent made,
As men who stalk for mountain-deer,
Till the good Bruce to Ronald said,
" St. Mary ! what a scene is here.
I've traversed many a mountain-strand,
Abroad and in my native land.
And it has been my lot to tread
Where safety more than pleasure led ;
Thus, many a waste I've wander'd o'er,
Clombe many a crag, cross'd many a moor,
But, by my halidome!
A scene so rude, so wild as this,
Yet so sublime in barrenness,
Ne'er did my wandering footsteps press,
Where'er I happ'd to roam."
No marvel thus the monarch spake;
For rarely human eye has known
A scene so stem as that dread lake,
With its dark ledge of barren stone.
Seems that primeval earthquake's sway
Hath rent a strange and shatter'd way
Through the rude bosom of the hill,
And that each naked precipice,
Sable ravine, and dark abyss,
Tells of the outrage still.
The wildest glen, but this, can show
Some touch of Nature's genial glow;
On high Benmore green mosses grow,
And heath-bells bud in deep Glencroe,
And copse on Cruachan-Ben;
But here, — above, around, below,
On mountain or in glen,
Nor tree, nor shrub, nor plant, nor flower,
Nor aught of vegetative power,
The weary eye may ken.
For all is rocks at random thrown, —
Black waves, bare crags, and banks of stone
As if were here denied
The summer sun, the spring's sweet dew,
That clothe with many a varied hue
The bleakest mountain-side.
And wilder, forward as they wound,
Were the proud cliffs and lake profound.
Huge terraces of granite black
Afforded rude and cumber'd track;
For from the mountain hoar,
Hurl'd headlong in some night of fear,
When ycll'd the wolf and fled the deer,
Loose crags had toppled o'er;
And some, chance-poised and balanced, lay,
So that a stripling arm might sway
A mass no host could raise,
In nature's rage at random thrown,
Yet trembling like the Druid's stone
On its precarious baso
CORRISKIN.
301
CORRYARRICK.
Tho evening mists, with ceaseless change,
Now clothed the mountain's lofty range,
Now left tlioir foreheads bare,
Anil round the skirts their mantle furl'd,
Or on the sable waters curl'd,
Or on the eddying breezes whirl'd,
Dispersed in middle air.
And oft, condensed, at once they lower,
When, brief and fierce, the mountain-shower
Pours like a torrent down,
And when return the sun's glad beams,
"Whiten'd with foam a thousand streams
Leap from the mountain's crown.
" This lake," said Bruce, " whose barriers drear
Are precipices sharp and sheer.
Yielding no track for goat or deer.
Save the black shelves we tread.
How term you its dark waves? and how
Yon northern mountain's pathless brow,
And yonder peak of dread,
That to the evening sun uplifts
The griesly gulfs and slaty rifts,
Which seam its shiver'd head?" —
" Corriskin call the dark lake's name;
Coolin the ridge, as bards proclaim.
From old Cuchillin, chief of fame."
Macculloch, in his " Western Islands," has de-
scribed the lake with great beauty : — " Passing the
river which runs foaming over a sheet of smooth
rock into the sea, a long valley suddenly opens on
the view, enclosing the beautiful lake Coruisk, on
the black surface of which a few islands covered
with grass appear with the vividness of emeralds
amid the total absence of vegetable green. On
every side the hare rocky acclivities of the moun-
tains rise round, their serrated edges darkly pro-
jected on the blue sky or entangled in the clouds
which so often hover over this region of silence and
repose. At all seasons and at all times of the day
darkness seems to rest on its further extremity : a
gloom in which the eye, discerning but obscurely
the forms of objects, pictures to itself imaginary
recesses and a distance still unterminated. A re-
markable contrast is here produced in viewing alter-
nately the two extremities from any central point.
The entrance, less obstructed by mountains, presents
the effect of morning rising to illuminate the depths
of the opposite extremity, which appears as if per-
petually involved in the shadows of night. Silence
and solitude seem for ever to reign amid the fearful
stillness and the absolute vacuity around. At every
moment the spectator is inclined to hush his foot-
steps and suspend his breath, to listen for same sound
which may recall the idea of life or of motion. If
the fall of a cascade is by chance heard, it but serves
by its faint and interrupted noise to remind him of
its distance, and of the magnitude of the mountain
boundary ; which, though comprehended by a glance
of the eye, and as if within reach of the hand, is
everywhere too remote to betray the course of the
torrent. The effect of simplicity and proportion in
diminishing the magnitude of objects is here dis-
tinctly felt, as it is in the greater efforts of architec-
ture : those who have seen the interior of York
Cathedral will understand the allusion. The length
of the valley is nearly four miles, and its breadth
about one ; while the mountains that enclose it rise
with an acclivity so great, that the spectator situ-
ated at their base views all their summits around
him ; casting his eye over the continuous plane of
their sides, as they extend upwards in solid beds of
roek for nearly a mile, and present a barrier over
which there is no egress. Yet on entering it he
will probably imagine it a mile in length, and fancy
the lake, which occupies nearly the whole, reduced
to the dimension of a few hundred yards. It is not
till he has advanced for a mile or more, and finds
the boundary still retiring before him unchanged,
and his distant companions becoming invisible, that
he discovers his error, and the whole force and effect
of the scene becomes impressed on his mind. He
who would paint Coruisk must combine with the
powers of the landscape-painter those of the poet :
it is to the imagination, not to the eye, that his
efforts must be directed."
CORRYARRICK, a wild and lofty ridge of monn-
tains on the south-east flank of the great glen of
Scotland, forming a vast natural barrier between
the central part of that glen and the upper part of
Strathspey. A military road was constructed over
it from Fort Augustus to Garviemore, but has been
allowed to fall into disrepair, and is now used only
by pedestrians aud drovers. The ascent on the
south-east side is by seventeen traverses, like the
wormings of a corkscrew, and passes over several
brook-cuts and gullies by means of bridges; and
the descent on the other side is not mitch dissimilar.
The tortuosities of the road, rendered absolutely
necessary by the nature of the ground, greatly in-
crease the real distance, which from base to base
does not exceed 5 miles. Skrine, speaking of this
pass, says : " Our road soon growing inexpressibly
arduous, wound round the rocky hills overhanging
Fort -Augustus and Loch-Ness; and elevated us
to a height truly terrific, — springing sometimes
from point to point over alpine bridges, — and at
others pursuing narrow ridges of rock, frightfully
impending over tremendous precipices. With a
perpetual succession of these laborious inequalities,
and their corresponding scenery, we passed the
mountain Corryuragan, crossed the two sources of
the Tarff, and began to ascend the mightier base of
Corryarriek. The wildest and most dreary solitude
of Siberia cannot display a scene more desolate than
that which extended round us, as far as the eye
could reach on cither side ; no vestiges of living
creatures or their habitations enlivening the desert,
and nothing appearing but disjointed rocks, broken
torrents, and the tops of more distant mountains.
The road alone bore tho form of being a human
work ; and as it began to ascend the furrowed side
of Corryarriek, high stakes placed at equal distances
marked its progress, to prevent the inevitable de-
struction which must await those hardy travellers,
who venturing over this pass in times of snow,
might deviate from the regular track. The unusual
display of their high points, bleached with perpet-
ual storms, sometimes extending in a long line of
ascent athwart the mountain, and at others rising
in a zigzag direction over terraces almost paral-
lel, could not fail to astonish and confound a
stranger, with the height before him to be sur-
mounted. The road grew more laborious, and the
precipice more tremendous, as we approached the
summit, broad patches of snow filling the clefts and
hollows around us on each side. The weather also,
which had gradually declined from its morning
splendour, assumed now a tempestuous aspect ; the
rain heat furiously against us, with terrific gusts of
wind; and a thick fog, still more alarming, whirl-
ing round the summit of the mountain, frequently
enveloped us in a temporary obscurity. Drenched
with the wet, as we did not dare to continue in our
carriages, at length we reached a circular spot,
traced out on the highest point of the mountain,
and immediately began to descend, by a dangerous
and rapid zigzag, from terrace to terrace, with in-
cessant turnings, so short and so narrow as to re-
quire the utmost circumspection in compassing
them. It may easily be imagined how wonderfully
precipitate this singular descent is, when I add,
that rn the progress of little more than two painful
miles, we unravelled the whole labyrinth of that
eminence, which it cost us so much labour, and
CORRYARRICK.
302
COESTORPHINE.
nine miles of tedious ascent to attain. At the bot-
tom, however, we rested a while from our labours ;
and the fog in some measure dispersing, though the
rain was unabated, we were able to survey the
country into which we were translated as it were
from the clouds. Behind us the great mountain
from which we had escaped rose like a perpendicu-
lar bulwark, on which we were unable to trace the
angular course by which we had worked our pas-
sage ; and the only track we could distinguish on
its front was the chain of cataracts, tumbling in
successive falls, which forms the source of the great
river Spey. Other mountains, capped with eternal
snows, and inferior only in height to that which we
had passed, frowned over us on each side ; while a
long channel appeared worked by the impetuous
stream between their bases, through a hollow valley,
over which the road hung suspended on a narrow
shelf. A broader glen succeeded to this, and the
torrent became a rivulet, which after a variety of
stages increasing in magnitude, swelled at length
into a river, ravaging the little plain it formed, and
fretting with furious impetuosity over the number-
less asperities with which the feet of the precipices
were strewed. With such violent convulsions was
the birth of this mighty river attended amidst its
native mountains, whose impetuous stream, emerg-
ing from the chaos it has created, desolates a vast
tract of country in its descent to the sea, which it
falls into near Fochabers, where we first crossed it.
Relieved from many of the horrors which attended
the former part of our course, we pursued the decli-
vity on a road rendered inexpressibly rough by the
broken fragments of rock with which it was strewed,
till crossing the Spey, we arrived at the solitary inn
of Garviemore, after traversing a desert of 18 long
miles, which it cost us eight hours to surmount.
During this whole course our eyes had not encoun-
tered a single human being, or even the vestiges of
an animal ; those quadrupeds which are the natural
inhabitants of mountains shunning these barren de-
serts, where there is nothing to sustain them ; and
no birds, except the eagle, being hardy enough to
frequent their cliffs."
When General Cope marched north from Stirling
to meet the advancing forces of Prince Charles, in
the latter end of August, 1745, he hesitated to at-
tempt the passage of Corryarrick in the face of the
Highland forces, then 3,000 strong, whom he un-
derstood to be in possession of the summit. As the
mountain was peculiarly fitted for the operations of
Highlanders, it is evident that, in attempting to
cross Corryarrick, Cope, if attacked, would labour
under every disadvantage ; for while his men could
not leave the road in pursuit of their assailants, the
latter could keep a running fire from numerous
positions, from which it would be impossible to dis-
lodge them. Cope was warned by President Forbes
of the dangers he would ran ; and his fears were
not a little increased by a report that, on arriving
at the bridge of Snugborough, a dangerous pass on
the north side of the mountain, he was to be op-
posed by a body of Highlanders ; and that, while
this party kept him employed, he was to be "U-
tacked in his rear by another body, which was to
be sent round the west end of the hill. Alarmed
at the intelligence he had received, — distracted by
a variety of reports as to the strength of the enemy,
and disgusted by the apathy of those on whose sup-
port he had relied, — Cope called a council of war at
Dalwhinnie, on the morning of the 27th of August,
to which he summoned every field-officer, and the
commanders of the different corps of his little army.
He would have acted more judiciously had he con-
vened a council at Dalnacardoch, when he first re-
ceived intelligence of the advance of the Highland-
ers. At this meeting, Cope laid before his officers
the orders he had received from the Secretary of
State to march to the north, which were too positive
to be departed from without the most urgent neces-
sity. After some deliberation, the coimcil were
unanimously of opinion, that the original design of
the general of marching to Fort-Augustus over
Corryarrick, was, under existing circumstances,
quite impracticable. Having abandoned the design
of crossing Corryarrick, the coimcil next considered
what other course should be adopted. The wisest
course certainly, if practicable, would have been to
have marched back to Stirling, and to have guarded
the passes of the Forth ; but against this proposal
it was urged that the rebels, by marching down the
side of Loch Rannoch, would be able to reach Stir-
ling before the King's troops, and that, by breaking
down the bridges, they would intercept them in
their retreat. As it was impossible to remain at
Dalwhinnie, no other course therefore remained, in
the opinion of the council, but to march to Inver-
ness. This opinion, which was reduced to writing,
and signed by all the members of council, was de-
livered to Sir John Cope, who, acquiescing in its
propriety, immediately issued an order to march.
CORRYAUR. See Muthill.
CORS-, or Cross-, a prefix in Scottish topographi-
cal names, alluding in some instances to the Christ-
tian cross, as in Corstorphine, ' the cross of Tor-
phine,' and in others to local intersecting lines, as
in Crossgates, ' the intersecting roads.'
CORSAIG. See Saddel and Skipkess.
CORSANCON. See Cumnock (New).
CORSE, a hill at the meeting-point of the three
parishes of Coull, Lumphanan, and Leochel, Aber-
deenshire. Near its summit are two or three long
trenches, together with many small tumuli ; and on
its south-eastern slope, in Lumphanan, is a long
earthen rampart, with a ditch, confronting a similar
rampart on the brow of the hill Milmad. Tradi-
tion ascribes these antiquities to the closing scenes
of the career of Macbeth. The old castle of Corse
in Leochel was built in 1581, and is now a ruin.
CORSE-DARDAR. See Birse.
CORSEMILL, or Crossmill, a village in the Abbey
parish of Paisley, 3 miles south-east of the town of
Paisley, Renfrewshire. Most of its inhabitants
are employed in the bleachfields and printfields on
the banks of the Levern. Population, 2fi5.
CORSEWALL POINT, a headland on the north-
west coast of Wigtonshire, near the entrance of Loch-
Ryan ; in N. lat. 55° 1', and W. long. 5° 10'. A
lighthouse was erected upon this point in 1817. It
shows a bright and red light alternately eveiy two
minutes, which is seen in clear weather at the dis-
tance of 15 miles. The building is 92 feet in
height; and the lantern is elevated 112 feet above
high-water.
CORSKIE. See Gartly.
CORSOCK, a small village, with a post-office, on
the east margin of the parish of Parton, Kirkcud-
brightshire. It stands on the Water of Urr, 10
miles north of Castle Douglas. A place of worship,
now a quoad sacra parish church, was erected here
by subscription in 1839. The Castle of Corsock,
now a ruin, was the residence of Robert Nelson of
Corsock, who acted a prominent part among the
persecuted Covenanters.
CORSTORPHINE, a parish, containing a post
office village of the same name, and also the small
villages of Gogar, Stanhope-Mills, and Four-Mile-
Hill, in the north-west of Edinburghshire. It is
bounded by Cramond, St. Cuthberts', Colinton,
Currie, Eatho, and Kirkliston. Its length westward
CORSTORPHINE.
303
CORTACHY.
is about 4 miles ; and its greatest breadth is about
2J miles. The surface is in general level, and, over
n great part of its extent, spreads into a smooth
plain. The grounds of greatest elevation are those
which go by the name of Corstorphine-hill, — an ap-
pellation they hardly could have gained unless from
being in a manner insulated in the midst of rich
valleys. This hill, or rather ridge, on the south and
west sides, rises from the plain to the height of 474 feet
above sea-level, by an easy ascent ; on the east side,
it is more precipitate, and runs north, in an indented
cristated form, into the borders of Cramond. There
are no metals or coals mined in this parish ; but
there are very fine quarries of freestone, -which was
formerly much in request for buildings in Edinburgh.
There are also, on the lands of Clermiston, inex-
haustible quarries of trap or blue whinstone. The
parish is watered by the Gogar, and by the water of
Leith. There is a sulphureous mineral spring near
Corstorphine, wiricli once conferred on that village
considerable celebrity. When it was in repute,
about the middle of last century, the village was a
place of fashionable resort for the citizens of Edin-
burgh, and had its balls and other amusements com-
mon to watering-places. The place was then
famous also for a peculiar delicacy called ' Corstor-
phine cream.' The mystery of preparing this is
thus described in the Old Statistical Account: —
" They put the milk, when fresh drawn, into a
barrel, or wooden vessel, which is submitted to a
certain degree of heat, generally by immersion in
warm water ; this accelerates the stage of fermenta-
tion. The serous is separated from the other parts
of the milk, the oleaginous and coagulable ; the
serum is drawn off by a hole in the lower part of
the vessel ; what remains is put into the plunge-
churn, and after being agitated for some time, is
sent to market as Corstorphine cream." There is
growing near the village a sycamore tree, one of the
largest in Scotland, which, in the end of May and
beginning of June, exhibits an appearance of the
most striking beauty. That side which is exposed
to the sun is of the richest vivid yellow hue ; hence
this tree is easily distinguished at a great distance.
Slips which have been taken from it have thriven
very well in other parts of the countiy. A consider-
able extent of land around the village is rich garden
ground, and produces great quantities of straw-
berries, tree-fruit, and pot- vegetables for the Edin-
burgh market. Much of the parish also is adorned
with fine residences ; and a large aggregate of it,
including the greater part of Corstorphine hill, is
covered with wood. There are fourteen landowners.
The real rental is between £13,000 and £14,000. The
middle road from Edinburgh to Glasgow, and the
Edinburgh and Glasgow railway traverse the parish ;
and the latter has stations for Corstorphine and
Gogar. The village of Corstorphine is situated on
the Edinburgh and Glasgow road, 3J miles west of
Edinburgh. It stands at the commencement of the
slow ascent of Corstorphine hill, slightly above a
great expanse of rich alluvial country; and com-
mands a brilliant view across that expanse to the
Craig-Lockhart and Pentland Hills. It has a shel-
tered, pleasant, prosperous appearance, and requires
nothing but draining to make it one of the most
agreeable summer retreats near the metropolis. It
for some time lost its attractions for visitors, and
was going into decay ; but in 1832 it began to re-
new its youth by the erection of a number of neat
cottages ; and since then it has continued to im-
prove, so as once more to get into fame among
the summer-retirers of Edinburgh ; and now it en-
joys communication with that city many times a-day
by the railway trains and by an omnibus of its own.
Population in 1841, 372; in 1861, 688. Popula
tion of the parish in 1831, 1,461 ; in 1861, 1,570.
Houses, 289. Assessed property in 1843, £9,954
0s. 3d. ; in 1860, £13,118.
This parish is in the synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale, and presbytery of Edinburgh. It includes part
of the ancient parish of Gogar, and also a part of
St. Cuthbert's united to it in 1633. Patron, Sir W.
H. D. Cunyngham, Bart. Stipend, about £200 ;
glebe, £30. The church is an ancient building, of
Gothic architecture, in the form of a Jerusalem
cross. The present church was founded near the
parish-church of this place, by Sir John Forester of
Corstorphine. Lord-high-chamberlain of Scotland, in
1429, and dedicated to St. John the Baptist, for a
provost, 5 prebendaries, and 2 singing-boys. It was
a collegiate church, to which belonged those of Cor-
storphine, Dalmahoy, Hatton, Cramond, Collinton,
&c. The teinds of Ratho, half of the teinds of Ad-
derton, and of Upper-Gogar, were appropriated to
the revenues of this college. The first provost was
Nicholas Bannatyne, who died in 1470, and was
buried in the church, where his epitaph still remains.
The coat-of-arms of the family of Forester is every-
where dispersed over the building ; and within the
church, in niches, are several monumental remains
of this family, with effigies cut in stone as large
as life. The male figures are covered with com-
plete armour, and the female appear richly orna-
mented according to the fashion and dress of the
times. The roof is supported by strong arches ; and
the whole building seems to have suffered little by
the waste of time. The number of sittings in it is
470. The stipend of the parish-schoolmaster is
£50, with about £31 fees. He has amongst other
emoluments, a small piece of ground or glebe, near
the extent of an acre, contiguous to the village ; and
besides this, an acre of ground upon the side of the
water of Leith, near Coltbridge, which is called the
Lamp-acre ; its proceeds having been destined for
defraying the expenses of a lamp which hung in the
east end of the church of Corstorphine. There are
various conjectures concerning the use this lamp was
intended to serve. Some say that it was in honour
of the Virgin, before whose statue it was lighted up;
others, and with more probability, think that it
served as a beacon to direct travellers from Edin-
burgh, along a road which, in those times, was
swampy, difficult, and dangerous. A small ancient
chapel stands at Gogar, but it does not appear to
have been used as a place of worship since the Re-
formation. A burying-ground around it is still in
use. There is a Free church in the village of Cor-
storphine : attendance, 300 ; the yearly sum raised
in 1865 was £256 9s. 1 1 id. There is one private
school.
CORTACHY and CLOVA, an united parish in
the north-west of Forfarshire; bounded by Aber-
deenshire, and by the parishes of Lochlee, Lethnot,
Tannadice, Kirriemuir, Kingoldram, and Glenisla;
and stretching south-eastward, Clova uppermost and
Cortachy lowermost, from the sources of the South
Esk along the course of that river to within 3 miles
of Kirriemuir, which is the post-town. Clova is
nearly 10 miles long and 7 broad; and Cortachy is
about 13 miles long and from 2 to 8 broad. The
South Esk rises in a multitude of small streams in
the north-west of Clova ; flows south-east through
that district, and enters Cortachy about 1 J mile below
the kirk-town of Clova ; receives numerous tribu-
taries, chiefly on the northern side, while flowing
through Cortachy ; and from Cross Bog till its
junction with the Prosen water, divides Cortachy
from Tannadice. The soil is in general poor with a
wet and cold bottom. A part, however, of the haugh-
CORTES.
304
COVE.
ground on the banks of the Esk, is a light early soil,
interspersed with frequent patches of moss. The
united parish lies almost wholly among the Gram-
pians, and therefore is calculated principally for
pasture. Some of the mountains, especially those
in Clova, are of great height ; and many places are
beautifully romantic and picturesque. There are
three small lakes which abound with trout and pike.
Whinstone is found in great quantity ; but no free-
stone or any valuable mineral has been yet discover-
ed. The bridge of Cortachy, at the issue of the
South Esk from the Grampians, is founded on mica-
schistose rock, exhibiting masses of jasper varying
in colour from a bright yellow to a deep red, and sus-
ceptible of a fine polish. Behind the bridge, a re-
markable vein of indurated claystone is seen to
intersect the schistose rocks. It is generally of a
white or greyish colour, and contains thin scales of
lime spar. Cortachy castle, a favourite seat of the
Earl of Airlie, is the only mansion ; and that noble-
man and a near relative of his are the only land-
owners. The total yearly value of the raw produce
of Cortachy was estimated in 1842 at £6,632 ; and
that of the raw produce of Clova at £3,166. A good
line of road leads through the whole inhabited portion
of the parish into Strathmore. Population in 1831,
912; in 1861, 653. Houses, 141. Assessed pro-
perty in 1843, £3,887 Is. ; in 1866, £6,752 12s.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Forfar, and synod of Angus and Mearns.
Patron, the Earl of Airlie. Stipend, £172 19s. ;
glebe, £15. Unappropriated teinds, £184 8s. 2d.
Schoolmaster's salary now is £50. The church of
Cortachy is an elegant structure, built in 1829, and
containing 650 sittings. The church of Clova is
an old building, with 250 sittings, and is served by
a missionary minister on the Royal Bounty, who
serves likewise a church in the Glenprosen district
of Kirriemuir, and has a salary of £81. There are
three private schools.
CORTES, an estate in the parish of Eathen,
Aberdeenshire. The mansion is a modern struc-
ture, surrounded by fine plantations. On the estate
is a Druidical temple. Here also the road from
Aberdeen to Fraserburgh is joined by the road from
Peterhead to Fraserburgh. And here is a post-
office station, subordinate to Mintlaw.
CORUISK. See Coeriskin.
CORYVREKAN. See Corrievrekin.
GOSSANS. See Glammis.
COTHAL. See Fintray.
COTTACK, a village in the parish of Dunscore,
Dumfries-shire. It stands on the road from Minny-
hive to Dumfries, 7 miles south-east of Minnyhive,
and 9 north-west of Dumfries. Three vales, with
their respective hill-screens, diverge from it, west-
ward, eastward, and northward. Its site is some-
what elevatud ; and the parish church, being si-
tuated here, is seen a good way off in all directions.
Population, 252.
COTTON. See Aberdeen.
COTTON OF LOWNIE, a village in the parish of
Dunnichen, Forfarshire.
COTTON OF ST. MADOES, a village in the
parish of St. Madoes, Perthshire Population in
1851, 62.
COTTS LOCH. See Urquhakt.
COUFFURACH, a village in the Enzio district
of the parish of Rathven, Banffshire. Here is a
school, variously aided by extrinsic support; and in
the immediate vicinity is a church, which was built
in 1785, and contains 404 sittings.
COUL. See Contih.
COULARD HILL. See Stotfield.
COULBEG. See Assynt.
COULL, a parish in the district of Kincardine
O'Neil, Aberdeenshire, at the head of Strathcro-
mar ; bounded on the north by Tarland and Leo-
chel, on the east by Lumphanan, on the south by
Aboyne, and on the west by Logie-Coldstone. Its
shape is somewhat triangular; the longest side
measuring about 5 miles, and the others about 3J.
The post-town is Aboyne. The strath of Ci'omar is
flat, but is sheltered by high hills on each side. None
of the hills rise to a great height. A considerable
portion of the strath, called Bogmore, was formerly
a disagreeable unhealthy swamp, but has, for the
most part, been recently converted into good mea-
dow and arable land. The heritors are the Earl of
Aberdeen, the Marquis of Huntly, Forbes of Corse,
and Farquharson of Finzean. The real rental is
nearly £3,000. The antiquities are a Druidical cir-
cle on one of the hills, the traces of an ancient cha
pel on the lands of Corse, the ruinous walls of Corse
castle, and the vestiges of the castle of Coull, — the
last the ancient fortified seat of the once powerful
family of Durward. See Corse. Population in 1831,
767 ; 'in 1861, 792. Houses, 149. Assessed pro-
perty in 1843, £2,197; in 1860, £2,850.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kincardine
O'Neil, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, J. O. For-
bes of O'Neil Corse. Stipend, £161 5s. 7d.; glebe,
£7. Schoolmaster's salary, £52, with £8 fees, and
the Dick bequest, which, in 1832, amounted to £29
3s. The parish church is a plain building, erected
in 1792. There is a parochial library.
COULTER, a station on the Symington and
Peebles railway, 1J mile south-west of Biggar.
COULTER (Loch), a small lake in the parish of
St. Niuian's, Stirlingshire. It is about 2 miles in
circumference, and discharges its water into the Ban-
nock burn. During the great earthquake at Lisbon,
in 1756, its waters were violently agitated, and sank
about 10 or 12 feet.
COUNTESSWELLS. See Petercultee.
COUPEE-ANGUS. See Cupar-Angus.
COURANCE, a post-office station, in the parish
of Kirkmichael, subordinate to Lockerby, Dumfries-
shire.
COUE-HOUSE. See Saddel akd Skipness.
COURSTON. See Steathmiglo.
COURTHILL. See Daley, Petty, and Rose-
markie.
COURTHILLOCK. See Kirriemuir.
COURTKNOWE. See Cathcaet.
COUSLAND, a post-office village in the parish
of Cranston, 3 miles east of Dalkeith, Edinburgh-
shire. The ehapelry of Cousland was annexed to
the parish of Cranston about the time of the Refor-
mation. The chapel stood on the south side of the
village of Cousland, where its remains may still he
traced, with its almost forgotten cemetery ; it was
probably dedicated to St. Bartholomew. In 1547,
Cousland was burned by the Duke of Somerset, when
he invaded Scotland with a powerful army to enforce
the marriage of the Princess Maiy with Edward,
King of England. Population, 226.
COVE, a fishing-village in the parish of Nigg,
Kincardineshire, 4 miles south by east of Aberdeen.
Here is a natural harbour, very slightly improved
by art, affording suitable accommodation to the
fishermen, and often serving as a place of refuge to
boats in high north-easterly winds. In the vicinity
is a large cavern entering from the sea, and termi
nating in a beach. The fishermen engage in vari-
ous kinds of fishery, and have acquired some repu-
tation in the drying and smoking of haddocks. The
village has a slightly endowed school, and two de-
posit societies. The Aberdeen railway has a station
lor this place. Population, 385.
COVESEA.
305
COWIE.
COVE, Berwickshire. See. Cockbdhkspatii.
COVE, Durat'ries-shire. See Kirkpatkick-Flem-
INO.
COVE-A-CH1AEAN. See CAMrBELTON.
COVESEA, — popularly Causea, — a small village
on the coast of the parish of Drainy, 6 miles north
of Elgin, Morayshire. The adjacent shore is rocky,
precipitous, and strikingly picturesque. In one
place, a gently sloping road leads through a natural
arch, with stately pillars and lofty alcoves, to a
fiiece of fine natural meadow on the beach, enclosed
andward by smooth mural precipices from 60 to
100 feet high; while all around arc caves, fissures,
pinnacles, and fantastic forms of rock, various and
romantic as the ruins of a vast city, and far too
numerous to suffer appreciable loss to their inter-
est from any possible despoliation by man. Per-
haps the most curious object is an isolated rock
of the appearance of an inverted pyramid, measur-
ing 70 feet in height, about 30 across the top,
and only 8 at the base. On the west side of the
piece of meadow is a cave which was once the abode
of a hermit, and which Sir Eobert Gordon of Gordon-
stem used as a stable during the rebellion of 1745.
A very dangerous reef or chain of skerries extends
parallel to the coast, about a mile from the shore,
and has been fatal to very many vessels within the
recollection of the present generation. A lighthouse
was recently erected here. The light is a revolver,
appearing in its brightest state once every minute.
From west by north quarter north to south-east by
east quarter east, it is of the natural appearance ;
but from south-east by east quarter east to south-east
quarter south it has a red colour. It is visible sea-
ward at the distance of 18 nautical miles.
COVINGTON and THANKERTON, a parish con-
taining the villages of Covington and Thankerton,
in the upper ward of Lanarkshire. Two of the
nearest post-towns are Symington and Biggar. The
parish is bounded by Pettynain, Libberton, Syming-
ton, Wiston, and Carmichael. Its length north-
ward is 4 miles, and its breadth is about 2J miles.
The Clyde traces the eastern and north-eastern
boundary. Tinto is paiily within the southern
corner. The land adjacent to the Clyde is well cul-
tivated arable and meadow ground ; and the rest of
the surface is principally pastoral upland, exten-
sively clothed with heath. About 2,000 acres are
subject to the plough ; about 3,500 are sheep pasture ;
and about 80 are under wood. There are four prin-
cipal landowners ; but the only mansion is St. John's
Kirk. The real rental is about £3,S00. The chief
antiquities are four circular camps, and a fine ruin
of a fort or castle, built in 1442 by Lindsay of Coving-
ton. The celebrated Covenanter, Donald Cargill,
was taken prisoner at Covington mill. The Cale-
donian railway passes along the parish, and has a
station in it at Thankerton. The village of Coving-
ton is a small place near the Clyde, 5 miles north-
west of Biggar. Population of the parish in 1831,
521 ; in 1861, 532. Houses, 116. Assessed pro-
perty in 1843, £2,880 5s. 6d.; in 1860, £3,755 3s. 8d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Biggar, and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patrons, Sir N.
M. Lockhart, and Sir \V. C. Anstruther. Stipend,
£208 13s. 7d.; glebe, £17 10s. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50, with about £16 fees. The parishes of
Covington and Thankerton were united some time
between 1702 and 1720 ; when the church of Than-
kerton was allowed to go to rain, and that of Co-
vington was enlarged.
COWAL, a district of Argyleshire, forming a
peninsula or point of land stretching north-east and
south-west, between the frith of Clyde and Loch
Fyne ; and comprehending the parishes of Dunoon,
T.
Invcrchaolain, Kilfinan, Kilmodan, Kilmorich,
Lochgoilhcad, Strachur, and Strathlachlan. The
north-east part of the district, which borders with
Perthshire, presents a rugged and broken Bur-
face. The mountains become gradually lower and
the surface less rugged, as you advance to the
south-west ; and towards the extremity, compara-
tively speaking, the land is low and level. The
hills afford excellent pasture for sheep and black-
cattle. This district is intersected by three arms of
the sea, Loch-Ridden, Loch-Streven, and Loch-Eck,
and is watered by the rivers Cur and Eachaig.
The coast is partly flat, and partly bold and rocky,
presenting numerous creeks and small harbours.
Here are the ruins of the royal castles of Dunoon
and Carrick. Campbell of Strachur, Campbell of
South-hall, and Lamont of Lamont, have extensive
estates in this district. Population in 1831,7,943;
in 1861, 9,783. Houses, 1.S04.
COWCADDENS. See Glasgow.
COWCASH, a small natural harbour in the parish
of Nigg, Kincardineshire, about a mile south of the
harbour of Aberdeen, suitable for the site of a fish-
ing village.
COWDAILLY. See Carnwath.
COWDENBEATH, a post-ofHce village in the
parish of Beath, and a station of the Dunfermline
branch of the Edinburgh and Northern railway, be-
tween Lochgelly and Crossgates, Fife. Pop. 1,148.
COWDENKNOWS, an estate and barony on the
east bank of the river Leader, in the parishes of
Earlston and Melrose, 32 miles from Edinburgh,
12 from Kelso, 3 from Melrose, and 1 from Earl-
ston. Every one has heard of
" the broom, the bonny, bonny broom,
The broom o' the Cowdenknows."
But the broom-sprinkled braes and haughs of Cow-
denknows have been sadly stripped of their golden
adornments of late years by the progress of the tur-
nip husbandly ; and of the song to which the ancient
and beautiful little air of one strain, known as 'The
Broom of Cowdenknows,' was here united, only four
lines of the chorus remain ; but the air itself is for-
tunately still preserved, an object of less poetical
associations. The ancient ' Hanging tree ' of Cow-
denknows is also to be numbered now only amongst
the things that were. This venerable relic of an-
cient days and vanished customs, whose dark and
knotted trunk, and fantastically twisted boughs,
threw a gloomy kind of feeling over every spectator
who knew its history in the days of feudal barbarism,
has been cut down. It had been called, time out of
mind, ' the Hanging tree ; ' and the local tradition —
without any probability of right foundation — is, that
it was employed, in the "persecuting times," to
hang the covenanters in the days of Charles and
James. The persecution was not very fierce over
the Merse, and little more than fines were inflicted
upon the conventiclers. There may be less doubt,
hovever, of its having been employed by the older
Border-chief to assert his authority over his vassals,
or to inflict his vengeance upon his enemies.
COWEY'S LINN. See Eddlestone.
COWIE, a fishing village in the parish of Fetter-
esso, 1J mile north-north-east of Stonehaven, Kin-
cardineshire. On the top of a coast-rock in the
vicinity are vestiges of a small ancient fortalice
called the castle of Cowie, said to have been built
by Malcolm Canmore. On the south side of the
harbour, within high-water mark, is a bed of clay
slate connected with sandstone. On a common 2^
miles to the north-west, called Cowie Common,
there was recently dug up a collection of Roman
coins. Cowie was anciently a free burgh, — so con-
U
COWIE.
306
CRAIG.
stituted by Malcolm Canmore, — and a ehapelry,
first for the private convenience of the proprietors of
the place and their retainers, and afterwards belong-
ing to Marischal College, Aberdeen. The ruins 'of
the chapel still stand, contiguous to a recently
erected dead-house ; and form a picturesque object
from the Stonehaven road. The burying-ground
also is still in use. Population of the village in 1851,
174. See Fetteresso.
COWIE (The), a small river of Kincardineshire.
It rises among the frontier Grampians, in the ex-
treme north-west of the parish of Glenbervie, and
runs eastward through that parish and the parish of
Fetteresso to the sea at Stonehaven. It is subject
to high freshets, and has often done injury to the
property on its banks. The Aberdeen railway
crosses it by a stupendous viaduct of 14 arches, the
central one of which is upwards of 190 feet high.
The view from this bridge is remarkably fine, com-
prehending the deep wide ravine below, the vale and
town of Stonehaven, the castle of Dunnottar, and a
variegated expanse of country.
COWLAIES. See Edinburgh and Glasgow Rail-
way.
COWPITS, a village in the parish of Inveresk,
Edinburghshire. Population, 116.
COWSHAVEN. See Abeedour, Aberdeenshire.
COWSRIEVE. See Peterhead.
COWTHALLY. See Carnwath.
COXTON TOWER, a small square fortalice with
angular turrets, to the south-east of Elgin, Moray-
shire. It belonged anciently to the family of Innes
of Invemiarkie, but now to Lord Fife.
COYL, or Coila (The), a rivulet of Ayrshire. It
rises in the upper end of the parish of Coylton, on
the confines of Dalmellington, and pursues a wind-
ing course of about 10 miles north-westward to the
Ayr, at a point 4 miles east of the town of Ayr.
There is a cascade on it, about 25 feet wide and
about 15 feet in fall, under the beautiful ridge on
which Sundrum Castle stands. Millmannoch, the
scene of Bums' " Soldier's Return," is on the banks
of this stream.
COYLTON, a parish, containing a post-office vil-
lage of its own name, and also the villages of Craig-
hall, Gadgirthholm, Bankfoot, Joppa, and Knock-
shoggleholm, in the district of Kyle, Ayrshire. It
is bounded by Dalmellington, Dalrymple, Ayr, St.
Quivox, Tarbolton, Stair, and Ochiltree. Its great-
est length, north-westward, is about 12 miles ; and
its average breadth is nearly 2 miles. The river
Ayr flows nearly 4 miles along its north-west bound-
ary ; the Coyl flows along its interior ; and the Doon
drains part of its upper or south-eastern end. The
surface of its lower districts is partly flat and partly
undulating; that of its middle district rises into
trap hills, called the Craigs of Coyl, which have an
elevation of about 750 feet above the level of the
sea ; and that of its upper district is hilly and pas-
toral, with a summit ridge which has an elevation
of upwards of 1,100 feet above the level of the sea,
and commands magnificent extensive prospects.
About 70 per cent, of the whole area is in tillage,
about 23 in pasture, and about 7 under wood. There
are nine landowners. The real rental is about
£9,290. Coal is mined to the extent of about 8,400
tons a-year. Limestone, sandstone, and whinstone
are extensively quarried. The total yearly value of
raw produce was estimated in 1841 at £22,587.
The assessed property in 1860 was £10,481. There
are two tile-works. The chief mansions are Sun-
dram, Gadgirth, and Rankinston. There are three
lakes, the largest of which, Martnahaim, is a mile
in length. The parish, and the stream which inter-
sects it, are said, by tradition, to derive their name
from a fabulous king, called Coilus, or Coil, who is
reported to have been slain in battle, at Coylesfield,
5 miles south of Coylston, and buried at the parish-
church. A large stone is still regarded as monu-
mental of ' Auld King Coil.' The parish is traversed
by the road from Ayr to Dumfries. The village of
Coylton is a small place 6 miles east-south-east of
Ayr. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,389; in
1861, 1,604. Houses, 263.
This parish, formerly a prebend, is in the presby-
tery of Ayr, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Pa
tron, the Crown. Stipend, £254 8s. 4d.; glebe, £12.
Schoolmaster's salary, £52 10s., with considerable
other emoluments. The church is a handsome
Gothic edifice, with a tower, built in 1836, and con-
taining 744 sittings. There are three private
schools.
CRABSTONE (The). See Aberdeen.
CRAG. See Carrick.
CRAGGACH. See Wigtonshire.
CRAGGANESTER, a hamlet in the parish of
^Vecro Perthshire
CRAGGANTOUL, a hamlet in the parish of
Weern, Perthshire.
CRAGGIE (Loch), a flesh water loch in the pa-
rish of Tongue, in Sutherlandshire, lying imme-
diately to the north of Loch Loyal, which discharges
its waters into it, while itself flows into Loch Slam,
whence the Borgie conveys the united waters of the
three lochs to Torrisdale bay. All these lochs
abound in trout, pike, and char.
CRAG-ROMAN. See Stormont.
CRAICHIE, a village in the parish of Dunnichen.
Forfarshire.
CRAIG. See Carrick.
CRAIG, a parish, containing the post-office vil-
lage of Ferry den and the village of Usan, on the1*
coast of Forfarshire. It is bounded by Montrose
basin, the German ocean, and the parishes of Mary-
ton, Lunan, Kinnell, and Farnwell. Its eastern
division forms a peninsula between Montrose basin
and the sea. The extreme length of the parish,
from the guard-house on the north-east to its south-
west angle near West Coteton, is nearly 6 miles;
and its extreme breadth, from Baldovie on the
north-west, to the promontory of Boddin lime-works
on the south-east, is 3 miles. The island Inch-
brayock, in the embouchure of the basin, or of the
river South Esk, belongs to this parish. See Inch-
beayock. On the coast, Dunninald is the highest
ground; in the centre, Govanhill; and on the west,
Pittarishill and Mountboy, — all of which overlook
expansions of beautiful scenery, though the loftiest
of them is only about 400 feet high. The surface
of the parish is undulating, well tufted with planta-
tion, and, in several places, dotted with small lakes.
The coast is rocky, slightly romantic, and, toward
the south, precipitous. About 3,510 acres of the
entire area are in cultivation, about 1,090 are in
pasture or commonage, and 291 are under wood.
Limestone was long extensively quarried, but has
become nearly exhausted. A coarse building-stone,
locally called seurdy-stone, is worked in several
quarries. The fisheries, both of salmon and of
white fish, are very extensive. The total yearly
value of raw produce was estimated in 1835 at
£27,626,— of which £7,388 were for the fisheries.
Assessed property in 1843, £9,645 3s. 8d., but in
1866, £9,494 9s. lOd. There are five landowners.
The mansions are Rossie House, Dunninald House,
Usan House, and Inchbrayock villa. The chief
antiquities are some remains of Craig Castle, which
is frequently mentioned in Scottish history, the site
of another old castle on the south coast, and the
site of a fort in the north-east, traditionally said to
CRAIG.
',07
CRAIG IE.
have been used by Oliver Cromwell. The parish is
traversed by the road from Montroso to Arbroath.
Population in 1831, 1,552 ; in 1801, 2,177. Houses,
349.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the pres-
bytery of Brechin, and "synod of Angus and Mearns.
Patron, St. Mary's college, St. Andrews. Stipend,
£257 6s. 3d.; glebe, £24. Unappropriated teinds,
£101 8s. 9d. Schoolmaster's salary, £60, with about
£30 other emoluments. There is a school in Ferry-
den, endowed by the late Miss Kossie of Eossie; and
there are four other schools in the parish, supported
by the resident landowners. Craig comprises two
titularities or parishes, Inchbrayock or Craig, and
Dunninald or St. Skeoch, which were united in the
year 1618. The parish church is a beautiful struc-
ture, with a square tower, situated about a mile
from the basin, commanding from a gentle acclivity
an extensive view of watery and sylvan landscape,
looking down upon the smiling town of Montrose
begirt with its lagoon, and seeing away northward
over scenery exquisitely diversified, to the eminences
beyond the North Esk. It was built in 1799, and
contains 800 sittings. There is a Free church in
the parish, with an attendance of from 350 to 430;
and the yearly sum raised in connexion with it in
1865 was £190 17s. OJd. There have been several
libraries and benefit institutions.
CRAIG-, or Craig-of-Madderty, an estate in the
parish of Madderty, Perthshire, containing the mo-
dern village of St. David's, and enjoying the privilege
of a burgh of barony, erected in 1626. It formerly
contained a village of Craig, — to which that privi-
lege was attached. Population in 1841, 181 ; in
1851, 227. Houses, 47. See David's (St.).
CRAIGANFHIACH, or Raven's Rock, a preci-
pitous crag in the parish of Fodderty, Ross-shire,
giving off from its bold mural front a loud echo.
Near it is a very strong chalybeate called Saint's
well.
CRAIGANROY, a commodious and safe harbour
at the south corner of Loch Duich, parish of Glen-
shiel, Ross-shire.
CRAIGBAR. See Cltke.
CRAIGBEG, a mountain, nearly 1,200 feet high,
in the parish of Durris, Kincardineshire.
CRAIGBENYON, a mountain, 3 miles north-east
of Callander, district of Monteath, Perthshire.
CRAIGBILL. See Tkoqueer.
CRAIG BURN, a small tributary to the right
side of Douglas Water, in the parish of Douglas,
Lanarkshire.
CRAIG BURN, a head- stream of the Bogie:
which see.
CRAIGCAFFEI. See Inch, Wigtonshire.
CRAIG-CLUNY, a precipitous rocky height,
overhanging the public road, about 2 miles east of
Castleton - Braemar, Aberdeenshire. It carries a
mass of pine forest farther aloft than the eye can
individualize the trees, and terminates in a bare
granite peak. The vestige of an old tower, called
the Laird of Cluny's Charter Chest, occurs about
third way up, in a situation which looks almost in-
accessible to human foot. Farquharson of Cluny
lay concealed here during several months after the
overthrow of the Jacobites' hopes at Culloden. A
fragment of rock as large as a three-storey house has
fallen from the crag, and lies on the opposite side
of the public road.
CRAIGCROOK. See Cramond.
CRAIGDAIMVE, an inlet lying off the Point of
Keils in Knapdale, Argyleshire.
CRAIGDALLIE, a village in the parish of Kin-
naird, Perthshire.
CRAIGDAM. See Tarves.
CRAIGDARROCH. See Ballater and Glen-
cairn.
CRAIG-DAVID. See Bervie-Brow.
CRAIGDHU. See Black Craio.
CRAIG -DHULOCH, a stupendous cliff over-
hanging the south side of a small, dark, cold sheet
of water called Dhuloch, in the south-west corner
of the parish of Glenmuick, Aberdeenshire, adjacent
to the boundary with Forfarshire. This cliff soars
aloft to the height of upwards of 1,000 feet, and is
thought by some observers to be more sublime than
the famous rocks of Lochnagar.
CRAIGDAW. See Kirkoswald.
CRAIGELLACHIE, a picturesque mountain on
the mutual border of Strathspey and Badenoch, or
of Morayshire and Invemess-shire, in the southern
vicinity of Aviemore. See Duthil and Rotuie-
murchus ; see also Aviemore.
CRAIGELLACHIE, a lofty, picturesque, quaitz
rock on the left bank of the Spey, and on the mutual
border of the parishes of Knockando and Rothes,
Morayshire. A handsome iron bridge, of one arch
of 160 feet in span, with a round embattled **iwer
at each comer, here bestrides the Spey, and connects
Morayshire with Banffshire. It was erected in
1815 'at an expense of £8,000. The reach of the
river in the vicinity and for four miles below is emi-
nently beautiful. Craigellachie is 1 mile from
Charleston of Aherlour, and 3 miles from the village
of Rothes ; and here are a head post-office and a
station at a junction of railways. See Aiser-
lodr.
CRAIGEND, a village in the East Church parish
of Perth. Here is an United Presbyterian church,
built in 1780, and containing 413 sittings. Popu-
lation, 47.
CRAIGEND, a village in the Crossbill district of
the parish of Old Monkland, Lanarkshire. Popula-
tion, 80.
CRAIGEND, a small lake, beautifully fringed
with wood, in the north-east of the parish of New-
abbey, Kirkcudbrightshire. Near it, on the farm of
Craigend, is a rocking-stone about 15 tons weight,
which may be put in motion by a child.
CRAIGENDS. See Kii.barchak.
CRAIGENGILLAN. See Carsphairn.
CRAIGENGOWEE, a hill, 1,300 feet high, im-
mediately behind the manse of the parish of Straiton,
Ayrshire.
CRAIGENSCORE. See Glexbucket.
CRAIGFOODIE. See Dairsie.
CRAIGFORTH. See Stiri.ixg.
CRAIG-GIBBON, a summit among the frontier
Grampians, surmounted by an obelisk, in the parish
of Auchtergaven, Perthshire.
CRAIG-GRANDE. See Aui.tgraxde.
CRAIGHALL, a village on the Auchencruive
estate of the parish of Coylton, Ayrshire. There is
a coal-mine in its vicinity.
CRAIGHALL, Fifeshire. See Ceres.
CRAIGHALL (New and Old), two villages in
the parish of Inveresk, but the former partly also
in the parish of Liherton, 2 miles south-south-west
of Musselburgh, near the Musselburgh branch of
the old Dalkeith railway, Edinburghshire. They
are inhabited principally by colliers. An engine of
no less than 140 horse-power, works off the water
from the coal-mines in their vicinity. See Inveresk.
Population in 1861, of New Craighall, 336; of Old
Craighall, 318.
CRAIGHALL-RATTRAY. See Blairgowrie.
CRAIGHEAD. See Daillv.
CRAIGIE, a parish, containing a post-office sta-
tion of its own name, in the district of Kyle, Ayr-
shire. It is bounded by Dundonald, Riccarton,
CHAIGIE.
308
CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE.
Galston, MauoHine, Tarbolton, Monkton, and Sym-
ington. Its extreme length is 7 miles, and its aver-
age breadth 1J mile. Most of the surface is level,
arable, fertile, and well-enclosed. The eminences
are not high, and afford fine pasturage. From a
hill 500 feet above the level of the sea, a spectator
looks round on a richly cultivated beautiful expanse
of 100 square miles, and sees Benlomond and seve-
ral of the Grampians raising their lofty summits
toward the north, and the ridges of Jura serrating
th.6 horizon on the west, and the hills of Ireland
dimly merging from the sea on the south. Tile-
clay exists, and limestone abounds. Much attention
is paid to the dairy. There are eleven landowners.
The real rental is about £9,100. The mansions are
Cairnhill, Barnwell, and Underwood. The chief
antiquity is the rain of the old castle of Craigie.
The parish is traversed by the road from Kilmar-
nock to Tarbolton. Population in 1831, 824; in
1861, 730. Houses, 104. Assessed property in
1843, £8,057 13s. 5d. ; in 1860, £9,108.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the pres-
bytery of Ayr, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
Patron, Campbell of Craigie. Stipend, £247 7s. lOd.
Unappropriated teinds, .£360 4s. Id. Schoolmaster's
salary now is £50, with £18 school-fees. The
church was built in 1776. Craigie includes part of
the suppressed parish of Barnwell; and there was
formerly a school there.
CRAIGIE, a village in the East Church parish of
Perth, J a mile south of the city of Perth, around
the site of the old castle of Craigie, and divided into
Upper and Lower Craigie. Population, 220.
CRAIGIE, a village in the parish of Caputh,
Perthshire.
CEAIGIE, a village in the east of the parish of
Dalmeny, Linlithgowshire. Population in 1841, 75.
Craigie-Hill in the vicinity consists of erupted rock,
and commands an extensive brilliant prospect.
Craigie-Hall, also in the vicinity, is a very beauti-
ful policy on the Almond, — which river here forms
a picturesque cascade beneath a rustic bridge.
CRAIG IEBAENS, a hill in the vicinity of Dun-
keld, Perthshire. Its height is upwards of 1,000
feet above sea-level. Its outline is picturesque, and
its sides are richly clothed with wood. It is the
chief feature in the splendid landscape seen from
Dunkeld bridge. The top of this hill commands a
prospect extremely rich and diversified. To the
south is the vale of the Tay as far as the Ochils,
with the hill of Bimam in the foreground. On the
left hand, to the eastward, is the valley of Stormont,
with a beautiful chain of lochs, six in number. To
the west and north is seen the Tay flowing in ma-
jestic grandeur through a narrow vale, with the
high mountains of Athol, Schihallion, and Bengloe,
on the north.
CEAIGIEHALL. See Craigie, Linlithgowshire.
CEAIGIELANDS, a post-office village in the
parish of Kirkpatrick- Juxta, Dumfries-shire. Popu-
lation in 1841, 84. See Kirkpatrick- Juxta.
CEAIGIEVAE, an estate in the parish of Leochel-
Cushnie, Aberdeenshire. The mansion is a castel-
lated structure in the Flemish style, built in the
early part of the 17th century, and well-repaired in
1826. It has a grim appearance ; and over the
heavy doorway of the keep is the inscription, " Do
not waken sleepin dougs." Fairs are held at Crai-
gievar on the day in March after Huntly, on the
Friday in April before Brechin, on the day in May
after Wartle, on the Thursday after the last Tues-
day of June old style, on the day in July after St.
Sairs, on the day in August after Huntly, and on
the day in September after Keith.
CRAIGLEITH, a small island in the frith of
Forth, about a mile north of North Berwick, to which
it belongs. It supports a few rabbits.
CRAIGLEITH, the largest freestone quarry in
Scotland. It is the property of Ramsay of Barnton,
and is situated about 2 miles north-west of the New
town of Edinburgh, on the Queensferry road. Wben
first opened, it was rented at about £50 per annum ;
during the great building years in Edinburgh, from
1820 to 1826, it 3delded £5,500 a-year. A cubic
foot of Craigleith stone weighs 148 lbs. It is of
two kinds ; one of a fine cream colour, called liver-
rock, of which the south front of the Register office
in Edinburgh is built ; the other of a greyish white,
called 'feak-rock.' Stones are raised from the
strata in this quarry chiefly by means of wedges.
The monolithic columns in front of the College of
Edinburgh, each 23 feet high, and 3 in diameter,
were obtained from this quarry.
CRAIGLIOCH. See Blairgowrie.
CRAIG-LOCKHART, a hill in the parish of
Colinton, about 2 miles south-west of Edinburgh.
It is beautifully wooded. Towards the north-west
the rock exhibits lofty basaltic columns ; and on the
south-east side another range appears in which the
columns are still more distinct than in the former,
but of smaller diameter. The summit of the hill is
elevated 540 feet above sea-level.
CRAIGLUSCAR, a hill in the north-west of the
parish of Dunfermline, 2£ miles north-west of the
town of Dunfermline, Fifeshire.
CRAIGLUSH (Loch), a small lake in the parish
of Caputh, Perthshire, traversed by the river Lunan,
and adjacent to the beautiful Loch of Lows.
CRAIGMILL, a village at the southern base of
the Abbey Craig, in the Clackmannan district of the
parish of Logie. It was formerly notorious for the
smuggling of whiskey.
CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE, a fine old nun in
the parish of Liberton, about 3 miles south of Ed-
inburgh, crowning a gentle eminence on the left of
the road from Edinburgh to Dalkeith, and com-
manding a noble view of the south side of the city,
the frith and opposite coast, and Aberlady bay. It
consists of a square keep or tower, several stories
high, encompassed by a square embattled wall,
which has had circular towers at each angle, and
the whole surrounded by another rampart wall, and
in some places with a deep moat. On the principal
gate is the date 1427. Whether this is meant to
record the time that part was built, or an after-
repair, is uncertain. There are a great variety of
apartments. The great hall is large and well lighted,
considering the mode of ancient times; it has a
semicircular ceiling, and measures in length 36 feet,
in breadth 22 ; and, at the east end, has a chimney
1 1 feet wide. The ascent of the keep is by an easy
flight of broad stone stairs. On the east side of the
outer walls are the arms of Cockburne of Ormiston,
Congalton of that ilk, Moubray of Barnbougle, and
Otterburn of Redford, with whom the Prestons of
Craigmillar were nearly connected. Over a small
gate, under three unicorns' heads couped, is a
wine press and a tun, a rebus for the word Preston.
There are a variety of armorial bearings all over
the outside of this building. The apartment shown
as Queen Mary's, is in one of the upper turrets ; it
measures only 5 feet in breadth, and 7 in length ;
but has, nevertheless, two windows and a fire-place.
The name of this place occurs pretty early in the
national records, in a charter of mortification, in
Haddington's collections, granted in the reign of
Alexander II. a.d. 1212, by William, son of Henry
de Craigmillar ; by which he gives, in pure and per-
petual alms, to the church and monastery of Dun-
fermline, a certain toft of land in Craigmillar, in
CRAIGMONY.
309
CRAIGNISI1.
the southern part, which leads from the town of
Nidreif to the church of Liberton, which Henry de
Edmonton holds of him. Craigmillar afterwards
became the property of John de (Japella, from whom
it was purchased by Sir Simon Preston in 1374.
\Villiam, a successor to Sir Simon, was a member
of the parliament which met at Edinburgh June 1,
1478. He had the title of Domine de Craig-Miller.
This castle continued in the possession of the Pres-
tons almost three hundred years ; during which
time that family held the highest offices in the
magistracy of Edinburgh. In 1477, the Earl of
Mar, younger brother to King James III., was
confined here a considerable time. It was also the
residence of King James V. during his minority,
when he left Edinburgh castle on account of the
plague ; and here the queen dowager, by the favour
of the Lord Erskine, his constant attendant and
guardian, had frequent interviews with the young
monarch, whilst the Duke of Albany, the governor,
was in France. A.D. 1554, this castle, with that
of Eoslin, and the town of Leith, were burned aud
plundered by the English. Probably most of the
firesent buildings were erected since that time ; at
east, their style of architecture does not seem much
older than that period. Queen Mary, after her re-
turn in 1561, made this castle her residence. Her
French retinue were lodged at a small village in
the neighbourhood, which, from that circumstance,
still retains the appellation of Petit France. In the
month of November, 1566, Queen Mary was residing
here when the celebrated ' Conference of Craigmil-
j lar ' was held, in which a divorce between her and
Darnley was projected by the ambitious and daring
Bothwell. About the time of the Restoration, this
castle came into possession of Sir John Gilmour,
lord-president of the court of session, who made
some additions to it, and whose descendants are still
in possession of it. Grose has preserved two views
of it, taken in 1788.
CRAIGMONY, a very prominent rocky hill,
about 2 miles west of the old castle in Glen Ur-
quhart, Inverness-shire, partly crowned with rude
stone walls, and traditionally said to have been
used in the olden time as a beacon hill and a gallows
hill.
CRAIG-NA-CAILLIACH. See Balqtjhiddee.
. CRAIGNEIL. See Colmonell.
CRAIGNETH AN -CASTLE, the archetype of
Sir Walter Scott's castle of Tullietudlem, a magni-
ficent ruin in the parish of Lesmahago, Lanarkshire.
It surmounts a steep promontory, encircled by the
Nethan on the east, and by a craggy turbulent
torrent on the west. Tradition relates that it was
built by one of the early forefathers of the present
family of Hamilton, but that the strength of the
fortifications having awakened the suspicions of
the Scottish King, the builder was apprehended, and,
according to the summary proceedings of ancient
times, immediately executed, upon suspicion of
meditated rebellion. The site is naturally very
strong, and before the invention of artillery, the
bulwarks must have been almost impregnable. A
high and solid wall of hewn stone, great part of
which is still standing, flanked with massy towers,
and perforated with loopholes pointing in all direc-
tions, surrounded the principal building, enclosing
within its ample compass a court -yard, inter-
sected with a deep moat faced on each side with
hewn stone, over which was thrown a drawbridge,
defended by two Parallel vaults, which are still ac-
cessible, though deepiy buried in the rubbish where-
with the moat is filled. The buildings are much
dilapidated, great part of the wall being entirely
swept away, having been used as a quarry for the
neighbouring farm-houses. The two towers which
remain are crowned with a thick coppice of rowan-
tree, bourtrce, hazel, ash, brier, and hawthorn; and
— what will tend to convey some idea of the extra-
ordinary massiness of the structures — several bushes
of sauch flourish in great luxuriance on the top of
the walls, and are cut every third or fourth year by
the coopers, as excellent hoops. A large vaulted
hall is still shown, called the Queen's room, wherein
it is said the ill-used Mary lodged a few nights, about
the period of the disastrous battle of Langside ; and in
a subterraneous vault, there is a circular well, beau-
tifully built of polished stone, which one tradition
reports to have descended to a level with the bed of
the Nethan, and communicating with that rivulet, to
have supplied the garrison with water during a siege ;
while, according to another, it formed the entrance
of a tier of lower vaults, in which those wretches
who incurred the displeasure of their feudal tyrant
were hopelessly confined. Be these accounts as
they may, the well is now almost choked up, several
of the large, stones of its mouth have been thrown
in, while every visitor to the castle takes the liberty
of throwing down the well a blazing bunch of broom,
or some other comhustible substance, that he may
see the depth and construction of this curious rem-
nant of antiquity. Over the entrance to the prin-
cipal building is seen a much effaced escutcheon, in
which it is still possible to trace the armorial sup-
porters of Hamilton ; and the arms of the Hays, and
of some other families which formerly had possession
of this castle, are yet to be seen on various places of
the waDs. The Nethan, after leaving the castle,
forces its way through a deep ravine, on one side
clothed with hanging wood, and on the other side
presenting wavy broom-clad slopes.
CRAIGNISH, a parish on the west coast of Ar-
gyleshire, bounded by Loch Craignish, the Atlantic
ocean, and the parishes of Melfort, Dalavich, and
ICilmartin. Its post-town is Lochgilphead, 15
miles to the south-south-east. The length of the
parish north-eastward is fully 11 miles; and the
average breadth is about 2 miles. Loch Craignish
is an arm of the sea, opening from the north end of
the Sound of Jura, and penetrating the land about 6
miles north-eastward, with a width which variably
diminishes from 3 miles at the mouth to less than 1
mile near the head. Part of the parish is peninsu-
lar, stretching between Loch Craignish and the sea,
and terminating in Craignish point. The total ex-
tent of coast is not less than 16 miles. Abreast of
it, chiefly in the south and within Loch Craignish,
are upwards of 20 islands, and numerous rocks and
islets, serried round with romantic cliffs, washed
with the spray and tinctured with the hues of the
vexed waters in their narrow channels, bearing aloft
picturesquely situated trees, and commanding, as
well as contributing to form, brilliant and diversified
expanses of scenery. In the channel to the west
the tide, pouring along from the Sound of Jura, and
obstructed by the peninsula of Craignish and its
neig'hboimng islands, dashes itself into impetuosity
and foaming violence, and, even in the calmest
weather, makes chase upon the life of any fisherman
or tourist who has been tardy to anticipate its ap-
proach. The surface is much diversified, partly
flat and partly rugged, partly a strath lying very
slightly above sea-level, and partly a congeries oi
moors and hills, with an extreme elevation of about
700 feet. There are twelve lakes and many rills.
The soil of the arable grounds is principally a loamy
mould, which promises abundance to the cultivator,
yet is cold, subject to destructive storms, and on the
whole unproductive. The real rental, exclusive of
some servitudes which are still exacted, is aboui
CltAIGO.
310
CRA1L.
£2,646. The total yearly value of raw produce was
estimated in 1843 at £7,457. The assessed property
in 1860 was £3,305. The landowners are Campbell
of Barbreck, M'Dougall of Lunga, and C. F. T. Gas-
coigne ; the first of whom resides here in Barbreck
House, the second in Dail House, and the third in
Craignish Castle. The last of these mansions con-
sists of a handsome modem edifice conjoined to ex-
tensive remains of an ancient strong fortalice, prin-
cipally a square tower and a vaulted dungeon. Re-
mains of another old stronghold of similar character
stand in the north-west. Fortified eminences, rude
in construction, and supposed to be of Danish origin,
are numerous ; and two farms bear evidently Danish
names. The strath of this parish is traditionally
reported to have been the scene of an engagement
between the Danes and the natives, in which Olaus,
a royal prince of Denmark, was slain ; and it con-
tains, among numerous cairns and other artless
monumental records of former times, a mound or
tumulus, now modernized into a burying-ground,
which is still called Dunan Aula, or the Little
mount of Olaus. The parish is traversed for two
miles by the road from Lochgilphead to Oban ; and
it enjoys valuable communication with the Clyde by
means of the Glasgow and Inverness steamers.
Population in 1831, 892; in 1861, 618. Houses, 129.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Inverary and synod of Argyle. Patron, the
Duke of Argyle. Stipend, £169 10s.; glebe, £18.
There are no unappropriated teinds. School-
master's salary now is £35, with £12 10s. other
emoluments. The church was built in 1826, and
contains 500 sittings. There is a private school.
CRAIGO, an estate, a village, a seat of manufac-
ture, and a station on the Aberdeen railway, in the
parish of Logie-Pert, Forfarshire. See Logie-Pert.
Population of the village, 359.
CEAIGOWL, one of the Sidlaw hills, in the
parish of Tearing, Forfarshire. It rises to 1,600
feet above sea-level, and is the highest summit in
the range.
CRAIG-PHADRIC, a steep but finely-wooded
hill in the neighbourhood of Inverness; rising 420
feet above the level of the Ness, which flows at its
foot. It is noted for the remains of one of those
fortifications, which, from the vitrified appearance
of the stones, and the marks of fusion which they
exhibit, have received the name of vitrified forts.
That on Craig-Phadric is by far the most complete
and extensive in Britain. The summit of this hill
is flat, and has been surrounded by a wall in the
form of a parallelogram, the length of which is about
80 yards, and the breadth 30 within the wall. The
stones are all firmly connected together by a kind
of vitrified matter resembling lava, or the scoria? or
slag of an iron-foundry ; and the stones themselves
in many places seem to have been softened and vitri-
fied. The greater part of the rampart is now covered
with turf, so that it has the appearance of an earthen
mound ; but, on removing the earth, the vitrified
matter is everywhere visible, and would seem to
have been in some places of great height. On the
outside there is the appearance of a second rampart,
but not so regular as the first. Considerable masses
of vitrified matter are also found in this second
structure, under which is the natural rock, chiefly
a fine granite, with some breccia or pudding-stone,
in a cement of argillaceous and quartzosc matter.
Within the area is a hollow, with a small spring of
water.
CRAIGROSSIE. See Auohteeaedek.
CRAIGROSTAN. See Benlomond.
CRAIGROTHIE, a village in the parish of Ceres,
2 miles west of the town of Ceres, Fifeshire. It is
a burgh of barony, and is governed by a bailie and
councillors, who are elected by the inhabitants. It
has a subscription school and a Friendly society.
In its vicinity is a quarry of good building stone.
Population, 308.
CRAIGS-BLEBO. See Blebo Ckaigs.
CRAIGS-OF-KYLE. See Coylton.
CRAIGS OF MADDERTY. See Craig and
David's (St.).
CRAIGSPARROW. See Neweurgh.
CRAIGSTON CASTLE. See Kikg-Edward.
CRAIGTON, a village in the parish of Monikie,
Forfarshire. Population, 162.
CRAIGTON FIELD, a village in the parish of
New Kilpatrick, Dumbartonshire. Population ii»
1851, 69.
CRAIGWARD. See Alloa.
CRAIGY-BARNS. See Craigiebarns.
CRAIKMOOR. See Roberton.
CRAIL, a parish, containing a royal burgh of ita
own name, in the south-east angle of Fifeshire,
commonly called 'the East Neuk o' Fife.' It is
bounded on the north by Denino and Kingsbarns ;
on the east by the sea ; on the south by the sea and
Kilrenny ; and on the west by Kilrenny and Cam-
bee. It is of very irregular outline, varying in
breadth from 2 furlongs to 2J miles, and stretching
westward from Fifeness to a length of 6J miles.
The surface is, in general, flat, naked, and uninter-
esting. It rises abruptly at the coast to an elevation
of from 20 to 80 feet ; and it thence swells gently to
the west, with hardly a hedge to frill its thin dress,
and without an acclivity or a lake or stream to
relieve the monotony of its aspect. Coal-mines,
which formerly enriched the country, have long
been exhausted. Limestone is abundant, but lies
too deep to admit of being very extensively worked.
Good sandstone for all ordinary purposes occurs in
almost every quarter. Ironstone is worked for ex-
portation. Clays are dug for the supply of a local
manufacture of bricks, tiles, and chimney- cans.
The real rental of the parish, exclusive of the burgh
and its pendicles, is about £10,500. There are
seven principal heritors, and seventeen smaller
ones. The mansions are Aiedrie [which see],
Iiingsmuir House, Wormistone, Kirkmay House,
and Balcomie Castle. The last is situated a little
east of the burgh. It was at one time a mansion of
great size and splendour, but is now reduced to one
wing which is inhabited by a tenant, and serves as
a landmark to mariners. It was anciently the resi-
dence of the Balcomies of that Ilk. During the
reign of James IV. it was acquired by the Lear-
months of Dairsie. In 1705, the estate was pur-
chased by Sir William Hope; and afterwards suc-
cessively by Scott of Scotstarvet and the Earl of
Kellie ; and now it belongs to Sir Thomas Erskine,
the Earl's great-grandson. Below Balcomie is a
small cave, where tradition says, King Constantine
was beheaded by the Danes in 874. There is a
curious dike, or perhaps natural ridge of stones,
about half-a-mile in length, and stretching from the
frith of Forth on the south-west, to the German
ocean on the north-east, so as to enclose a triangular
space of ground forming the Ness. Tradition attri-
butes this work to the Danes. A few years ago
several rude stone coffins were discovered on the
farm of East Wormiston, within view of the place
where the skirmish between the Scots and Danes
took place in 874; and, from its being without 'the
Dane's dyke,' it is supposed these coffins may have
contained the relics of the Scottish warriors who fell
in this engagement. They were 25 in number, and
were arranged side by side, the skeletons being
divided by only a single stone, which thus formed
CRAIL.
311
CRA1LING.
tho side of two coffins. Population in 1831, 1,824;
in 1861, 1,931. Houses, 380. Assessed property
in 1843, £10,240 6s. 9d.; in 186G, £13,458 lis. 3d.
This parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrews,
and synod of Fife. Patron, the Earl of Glasgow.
Stipend, £280 lis.; glebe, £30. Unappropriated
teinds, £624 3s. Schoolmaster's salary now is
£40, with upwards of £30 school-fees. When the
scholars exceed 90, an usher is employed, who re-
ceives £12 from the burgh, and from one-fourth to
one-third of all the fees. Two schools, not parochial,
are partially endowed or encouraged by the town-
council. The parish church is so old that many
persons believe it to be the one in which David I.
■worshipped when he lived in Crail ; and it was re-
paired in 1828, and contains nearly 1,000 sittings.
There is a Free church, whose yearly proceeds in
1865 amounted to £166 4s. 4d. There is also an
United Presbyterian church, with an attendance of
from 150 to 350. There are three private schools.
This parish chums Kingsmuir and the island of
May; the former as bearing its proportion of paro-
chial burdens, and the latter as sharing its ecclesi-
astical privileges.
The Town of Ckail stands on the coast 2 miles
west-south-west of Fifeness, 4 east-north-east of
Anstruther, 10 south-east by south of St. Andrews,
19 south-east by east of Cupar, and 29 east-north-
east of Kinghorn. It was anciently called Caryle
or Carraile, and is mentioned by old historians as a
town of considerable note, as early as the middle of
the 9th centuiy. Ada, mother of Malcolm IV.,
gave to the monks of Dryburgh a toft of houses in
her burgh of Crail. The ancient church, still en-
tire, is a fine specimen of pointed architecture. It
consists of a central nave, with aisles, divided by
two rows of pillars, one on each side. This church
belonged to the Cistertian nunnery of Haddington,
and was made collegiate, in 1517, at the desire of
the prioress of Haddington, for a provost, a sacrist,
and 10 prebendaries. John Knox preached here on
Sunday the 19th May, 1559, and next day marched
off with a mob at his heels, to destroy the monu-
ments of idolatry at St. Andrews. The celebrated
James Sharp, archbishop of St. Andrews, was once
minister of this church. There are some vestiges
of a chapel which was dedicated to St. Rufus. A
little to the east of the harbour, on the top of the
cliff are some traces of an old castle in which David
I . occasionally resided. The town consists of two
parallel streets extending along the shore, and two
or three small intersecting lanes. The northmost
street is broad and spacious, and contains some
good houses of a massive and antique description;
but the whole place bears evident marks of having
" seen better days." The streets, however, are
kept very clean, and lighted with gas. The ends
of the streets in old times were closed with strong
gates; and they still bear the name of ports. In
the centre of the town are a very neat town-hall
and a small jail. The town has a banking-office.
The harbour of Crail is small, difficult of access,
and not very safe. But Eoom, or the old harbour,
about a quarter of a mile to the east of the present
harbour, could, at a comparatively small expense,
be converted into an excellent harbour, capable of
containing 200 sail of vessels; having, in ordinary
tides, from 20 to 22 feet water, and at high spring-
tides 29 feet; which would admit ships of war.
This harbour is sheltered from all winds but the
south; and may be entered, with the wind at any
point, at lj hour's flood, by vessels drawing 10 feet
water. It would also be of the most essential ser-
vice to the trade in the frith, and the whole eastern
and northern coast of England and Scotland, as,
from its central situation, it would always be a
place of safety during storms from the north and
east; and in case of strong westerly winds, vessels
might run in here so as to avoid being blown out of
the frith. Only about twelve sailing vessels at pre-
sent belong to the town, with an aggregate burden
of something less than 600 tons, and employed prin-
cipally in importing coals and exporting raw pro-
duce. The number of fishing-boats also is much
smaller than might be expected. But at the begin-
ning of last century, and for a long time previous,
Crail was a great rendezvous for boats employed in
the herring-fishery, and immense quantities of her-
rings were then cured here. Formerly also the
fishermen used to cure haddocks in a peculiar way,
without splitting them, which went by the name of
' Crail capons.' The inhabitants at the time of the
eruption under John Knox are hit off as follows in
" Anster Fair:"
" Next from the well-aired ancient town of Crail,
Go out her craftsmen with tumultuous dill ;
Her wind-bleached fishers, sturdy-limbed and hale;
Her in-kneed tailors garrulous and thin ;
And some are flush'd with horns of pithy ale;
And some are fierce with drams of smuggled gin;
While to augment his drouth, each to his jaws,
A good Crail capon holds, at which he rugs and gnaws."
Crail received its charter from Robert Bruce, in
1306, which was successively confirmed, with new
grants, by Robert II. in 1371, Mary, in 1553, James
VI., and Charles I. and II. It was formerly go-
verned by 3 bailies, a treasurer, and from 11 to 15
councillors. It is now governed by a chief magis-
trate, 2 bailies, a treasurer and 17 councillors. It
joins with Cupar-Fife, St. Andrews, Kilrenny, East
and West Anstruther, and Pittenweem, in returning
a member to parliament. Its parliamentary and
municipal constituencies in 1865 were 59. Its cor-
poration revenue in 1864-5 was £254 odds. A
fair was at one time held here annually in the
month of March, but it has fallen into desuetude.
About 1810, the magistrates feued to the late Earl
of Kellie, the out-teinds and customs, anchorages,
and shore dues of Fifeness, Cambo sands, and
Kingsbarns, for £5 of yearly rent, which was after-
wards reduced to £2. Crail once possessed an ex-
tensive common, part of which has been feued-off,
There is a golfing-club in this town, who find scope
for their manly game in the adjacent links. Crail,
and ' the East Neuk o' Fife,' figure conspicuously in
Dmmmond's " Polemidinia." Population of the
burgh in 1841, 1,221; in 1861, 1,211. Houses, 245.
CRAILING-, a parish, containing the villages of
Crailing and East and West Nisbet, in the centre of
the northern half of Roxburghshire. It is bounded
on the north by Roxburgh parish ; on the east by
Eckford; on the south by Jedburgh; and on the
west by Ancrum and Roxburgh. Its extreme mea-
surement, from nortb to south, is 4 miles; and,
from east to west, 3§. Its post-town is Jedburgh-.
The Teviot divides the parish into two nearly equal
parts, flowing in beautiful windings from west to
east, and impressing upon the district the general
feature of a rich basin, deeply stained with green,
and ornamented with most of the softer forms of
beauty. Oxnam water again divides its southern
section into two not veiy unequal parts, flowing
down upon it from the acclivity of the border-moun
tains, and threading its way through verdure and
plantation till it falls into the Teviot. Another
streamlet, after sweeping round from the east upon
its south-eastern extremity, turns northward on its
touching the parish, and forms, till its continence
with the Teviot, the boundary between Crailing and
Eckford. Nearly the whole of the land is arabla,
CRAILING.
312
CRAMOND.
rich, and well-cultivated, consisting generally of a
light loam ; and with the interspersion of 300 acres
of plantation, the shadowing on the west of three
isolated and considerable hills, and the brilliant
movements and opulent dress of the intersecting
Teviot, it presents to the lover of landscape pictures
delightfully attractive. On the central one of the
three hills, that called Piniel-heugh, which has an
elevation of about 500 feet, and consists chiefly of
whinstone, there rises to the height of 150 feet a
flue cylindrical column, which commands a view of
nearly all the richly picturesque valley of the
Teviot, overlooks some of the most golden scenes
on the Tweed, and lifts the eye upward among the
grand acclivities and varied outlines of the Cheviots,
away north-eastward over all Berwickshire to the
German ocean. This column is ascended by a spiral
staircase, and was built by the sixth Marquis of
Lothian, in commemoration of the battle of Water-
loo. It is strongly constructed of whinstone quar-
ried on the spot, and bears this inscription: "To
the Duke of Wellington and the British Army,
William Ker, VI. Marquis of Lothian, and his ten-
antry, dedicate this monument, 30th June, 1815."
On the summit of Piniel-heugh are also vestiges of
two encampments which are conjectured to have
belonged to the Romans. Through the west of the
parish formerly passed a Roman road or causeway,
the course of which can still be traced. The great
road through Teviotdale traverses the southern sec-
tion of Crailing, at about mid-distance between the
Teviot and the boundary of the parish, passing all
the way along under a delightful shading of beech,
ash, and elm. The northern section — all the- pro-
perty of the Marquis of Lothian — is presided over
by the mansion of Mount-Teviot, a recent erection in
the form of three parallelograms, romantically sit-
uated on the banks of the Teviot, at the base of
Piniel-heugh. The southern section formerly con-
stituted the estate of Crailing, long the property of
the noble family of Cranstoun ; but it is now chiefly
the property of Paton of Crailing, whose mansion
stands on a gentle eminence, overlooking the mean-
derings and the sylvan-sloping banks of the Oxnam.
The real rental of the parish in 1835 was upwards
of £7,000 ; and the total yearly value of its raw pro-
duce was estimated in that year at £20,110. As-
sessed property in 1863^, £7,994 17s. Crailing
is the lowest, warmest, and most fertile portion of
Teviotdale, and is remarkably salubrious. Half-a-
century ago, an inhabitant attained the age of 106
years, and left behind him several healthy survivors
upwards of 80. The village of Crailing was at one
time considerable, but has latterly been falling into
decay. It is situated on the Oxnam, at the po'nt
where it is crossed by the Carlisle and Berwick
road ; and here an elegant bridge was erected in
the summer of 1833. Population of the village 74.
Population of the parish in 1831, 733; in 1861, 673.
Houses, 131.
This parish is in the presbytery of Jedburgh, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patrons, the Crown
and the Marquis of Lothian. Stipend, £251 10s.
lid.; glebe, £32 10s. Unappropriated teinds, £1,068
15s. Id. Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with £22 of
other emoluments. Crailing is called, in the re-
cords of presbytery, the united parishes of Crailing,
Nisbet, and Spital. Crailing and Nisbet were dis-
tinct parishes, the former on the south, and the lat-
ter on the north of the Teviot ; and Spital is said to
have been an hospital belonging to the abbey of
Ancrum. A few tombs overgrown with shrubs and
weeds still mark the siteof Nisbet church, and point
out the present place of sepulture for the inhabitants
on the northern side of the Teviot. Even Crailing-
proper, or the southern part of the modem parish,
formed, in the reign of David 1., two distinct pa-
rishes, each having its manor, church, and village.
The church is situated on an eminence near the
confluence of the Oxnam and the Teviot. It was
built about the middle of last century, and contains
300 sittings. There is a Free church : attendance,
150; yearly sum raised in 1865, £170 16s. lOd. Crail-
ing was the birth-place of the famous Samuel
Rutherford, and the scene of the ministry of the
church-historian Calderwood.
CRAMOND, a parish on the south coast of the
frith of Forth, partly in Linlithgowshire, but chiefly
in Edinburghshire. It contains the post-office vil-
lage of Ci-amond, the port of Granton, and the vil-
lages of Wardie and Davidson's Mains. It is
bounded by the frith of Forth, and by the parishes
of Dalmeny, Kirkliston, Corstorphine, and St. Cuth-
berts. Its length eastward is 6 miles ; and its
greatest breadth is 2 miles. Almond Water runs
across it, dividing its Linlithgowshire portion from
its Edinburghshire portion. The sides of this river
are beautifully ornamented, from about Craig-hall
to where it falls into the Forth. The surface of the
parish toward the north and east is flat, interspersed
with gentle eminences. The neighbourhood of
Edinburgh affords a ready market for the produce,
and furnishes plenty of excellent manure for the
farms. The southern and western districts are
more hilly and broken. Corstorphine-hill is partly
in this parish. To it also are annexed the two
small islands of Cramond and Inchmickery ; the
former of which, forming part of the estate of Barn-
ton, is accessible on foot at low-water. It contains
about 19 acres, and affords pasturage for a few
sheep. The road from Edinburgh to Queensferry
passes through the parish, crossing the Almond at
Cramond bridge, 4J miles west of Edinburgh, and
li mile above the mouth of the river. The old
bridge of Cramond is a little below this point. It
consists of 3 arches, each about 40 feet ; the breadth
within the walls being only 14 feet. The oyster-
beds on the coast of this parish, and around the
islands of Cramond and Inchmickery, have been
almost destroyed from over-fishing; and the Al-
mond, which onee abounded with salmon and trout,
is now almost deserted by these fish. The princi-
pal manufacture carried on is the forging of iron
and working of steel by the Cramond Iron company.
Ironstone is found along the coast, and there are
numerous seams of coal ; but, though pits have
been frequently sunk, they have been given up on
account of the badness of the coal. There is a mi-
neral spring on the lands of Marchfield, called the
well of Spa, containing a sufficient quantity of sul-
phate of magnesia to render it highly purgative.
The principal landowners are Ramsay of Barnton,
the Duke of Buccleuch, and seven others. The real
rental is about £17,950. The mansions and villas are
both numerous and beautiful. The principal are
Barnton House, Cramond House, Caroline Park, Muir
House, New Saughton, Braehead, Lauriston Castle,
and Craigcrook, — the last long known to the literary
and the legal worlds as the residence of the late
Lord Jeffrey. Cramond has given birth to several
men who have become eminent by their talents ortheir
virtues. Of these may be mentioned, John, second
Lord Balmerinoch, noted for his spirited opposition
to Charles I., and for being the best friend of the
Covenanters, having spent the greatest part of his
fortune in support of that cause; — Sir Thomas
Hope of Granton, a celebrated lawyer at the Scot-
tish bar ; — Sir George Mackenzie, first Earl of Cro-
marty, well-known as an able writer, and a great
persecutor ; — Dr. Cleghorn, professor of anatomy in
CRANE LOCH.
:;!;:
CRANSTON.
the university of Dublin, who may be considered as
Clio founder of the school of medicine in that uni-
versity. To these may be added John Law of Lau-
riston, one of the most remarkable characters this
or any other country has ever produced. He was
born at Lauriston in the year 1671. Disgusted with
some treatment he had received in this country, he
went over to France, where he was raised, in 1720,
to the high rank of comptroller- general of the
finances of France ; and obtained liberty to erect a
national bank, which was attended with the most
beneficial effects. He afterwards planned the Mis-
sissippi scheme, which proved to France — what the
South Sea company afterwards was to Britain —
only a bubble, threatening to involve the nation
in ruin. Law ended his chequered life in 1729, in
Italy, in a state of indigence, after having astonished
all Europe with his abilities, his projects, his suc-
cess, and his ruin. In the month of May 1543, the
expedition under the Earl of Hertford landed at
Caroline park in this parish, near the spot now oc-
cupied by Granton pier. The village of Cramond
is 5J miles west of Edinburgh, and 1 north of Cra-
mond bridge. It is situated on the eastern side of
the Almond, where it discharges itself into the
frith of Forth, opposite Dalmeny park. Its inha-
bitants are mostly employed in the ironworks car-
ried on in the neighbourhood, which were estab-
lished in 1771. The Almond is navigable for small
vessels nearly a quarter of a mile from the Forth,
forming a safe and commodious harbour — specified
in the records of the Exchequer as a creek belong-
ing to the port of Leith. To this harbour belong
8 or 10 sloops, employed by the Cramond Iron
company. This village was an important Roman
station. According to Boece, and Sir John Skene,
Constantine IV. was slain in battle here by Kenneth,
son of Malcolm I. The bishops of Dunkeld, to whom
Robert Avenel transferred one-half of the manor of
Cramond, occasionally resided here. Population of
the village in 1851, 167. Population of the parish
in 1831, 1,984; in 1861, 2,748. Houses, 447. As-
sessed property in 1860, £23,078.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Edinburgh, and synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale. Patron, Ramsay of Barnton. Stipend, £271
2s. 8d. ; glebe, £20. Unappropriated teinds, £237
13s. lOd. Schoolmaster's salary now is £45, with
about £20 fees. The parish church is a cruciform
structure, built in 1656, enlarged in 1811, and con-
taining 958 sittings. There is a Free church at
Davidson's Mains; and the yearly sum raised in
connection with it in lS65was£213 3s. 3d. There
are five private schools. John Strachan, Esq. of
Craigcrook, in this parish, about the year 1720,
mortified his estate, of above £300 per annum, to
certain managers, to be applied by them in relieving
the necessities of "poor old men, women, and
orphans." The annual produce of this mortification
has greatly increased, and the amount is dedicated
to the payment of annual sums of about £8 each to
a number of poor old men and women in the city of
Edinburgh.
CRANE LOCH, a lake about a mile in circum-
ference, lying 800 feet above sea-level, amid a region
of moors and marshes, in the parish of Dunsyre,
Lanarkshire.
CRANNICH. See Weem.
CRANSHAWS, a parish at the middle of the
northern verge of Berwickshire ; but consisting cf
two parts, the larger lying south of the smaller at
the average distance of lj mile. Its post-town is
Dunse. The northern part is bounded on the north
and west by East Lothian, and on the east and
south by the parish of Longformacus ; and is of
nearly a square figure, measuring from angle to
angle, both southward and westward, about 2£
miles. On the north and east, round nearly one-
half of its limits, this section has for its boundary
line YVhitaddcr water. The southern section is
bounded on the north and east by Longformacus,
on the south by Westruther, and on the west by
Lauder and Longformacus ; and is of an oblong
form, measuring 4J miles in extreme length, and
2J in extreme breadth. This section has for its
boundary line on the north and partly on the east
Dye water; and it is traversed from west to east by
Watch water ; which, just when leaving it, falls into
the Dye. The whole parish is a sea of hills, forming
part of the Lammermoor range, and is wild and pas-
toral. The greatest elevation is Man-slaughter-
Law, situated in the northern section, which is tra-
ditionally reported to have received its name from its
having been the scene of a sanguinary onslaught, and
on whose summit is a mound or tumulus apparently
commemorative of the event. The climate is cold,
sharp, and extremely foggy, yet decidedly salubri-
ous. Near the centre of the northern section stands
the castle of Cranshaws, formerly a fastness of a
kinsman of the Douglases ; and it seems to have
been the original of Sir Walter Scott's pictured
Ravenswood Castle, in his graphically tragic story
of ' The Bride of Lammermoor.' There are three
landowners. The total yearly value of raw produce,
exclusive of pastures, was estimated in 1834 at
£1,083. Population in 1831, 136; in 1851, 127.
Houses, 21. Assessed property in 1865, £1,715.
This parish, formerly a rectory, is in the presby-
tery of Dunse, and synod of Merse and Teviotdale.
Patron, Hon. S. G. Douglas. Stipend, £158 6s. 7d.;
glebe, £17 10s. Amount from heritors, £36 19s.
5d. The church stands at the eastern verge of the
northern section, in the vale or basin of the Whit-
adder. It was built in 1739, and contains 120 sit-
tings. Schoolmaster's salary now is £50, with £12
other emoluments. There is a parochial library.
CRANSTON, a parish, containing the post-office
village of Cousland, the villages of Preston, Chester-
hill, and Sauchanside, and part of the post-office
village of Ford, on the eastern border of Edinburgh-
shire. It is bounded by the county of Haddington,
aud by the parishes of Inveresk, Dalkeith, New-
battle, Borthwick, and Crichton. Its length north-
north-westward is 5 miles ; and its greatest breadth
is 3 miles. The river Tyne — here only a rivulet —
intersects it from south to north, meandering its way
amid groves and picturesque declivities, and over-
looked by the elegant mansions and pleasure-grounds
of Oxenford Castle, (Earl of Stair,) and Prestonhall.
The surface is undulating, cultivated, well enclosed,
and full of beauty; and from some of its higher
grounds, commands prospects both rich and exten-
sive. The Earl of Stair is the most extensive land-
owner ; and there are three others. Coal, limestone,
and sandstone are abundant. At Crichton-Dean
kilns, 24,000 bolls of lime are annually sold ; at
Cousland quarry, 16,000 bolls. A small section of
the parish lies apart from the main body, imbosomed
in the parish of Crichton. In this section is Cake-
muir towrer, square in form, four stories in height,
and winged with projecting battlements, in which is
' Queen Maiy's room,1 an apartment said to have
been occupied by her when escaping, in male
apparel, from the investment of Borthwick Castle
by Lord Home. Near Prestonhall stood the old
manse, which is said to have been a resting-place for
the religious on their way to Melrose. The parish
is traversed by the road from Edinburgh to Lauder
Population in 1831, 1,030; in 1861, 1,035. Houses,
204. Assessed property in 1860, £8,022.
CRATHIE.
314
CRAWFORD.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Dalkeith, and synod of Lothian and Tweed-
dale. Patron, the Earl of Stair. Stipend, £260 6s.
6d.; glebe, £27. Unappropriated teinds, £260 6s.
6d. The parish church is an elegant Gothic edifice.
It was built in 1826, and contains 375 sittings.
There is an United Presbyterian church at Ford.
Schoolmaster's salary now is £55, with about £21
10s. school fees. There are two private schools. —
Cranston, in the 12th century, was written Crane-
stone, — signifying the territory or resort of the
crane ; and it was then divided into the two manors
of Upper Cranston and Nether Cranston, afterwards
denominated New Cranston and Cranston-Ridel.
The latter manor obtained its cognomen from Hugh
Ridel, who received it as a grant from Earl Henry,
and who bestowed upon the monks of Kelso the
church and ecclesiastical property of Cranston, as
the purchase of their prayers for the souls of Earl
Henry and David I. Cranston-Ridel passed, in the
reign of David II., through the Murrays to the
Macgills, who were raised to the peerage under the
title of Viscounts Oxenford and Lords Macgill of
Cousland. Cranston gives title, from their ancient
possessions in the parish, to the noble family whose
ancestor. Sir William Cranston, was raised to the
peerage in 1609.
CRATHES. See Banchoey-Teenan.
CRATHIE and BRAEMAR, an extensive, high-
land, united parish, containing the post-town of
Castleton-Braemar, the post-office station of Crathie,
and the village of Auchendiyne, in the Mar division
of the Kincardine O'Neil district of Aberdeenshire.
It forms a westerly projection from. the south-west
corner of the county, and is bounded on the south
by Forfarshire and Perthshire, on the west by In-
verness-shire, on the north chiefly by Banffshire and
partly by the parish of Strathdon, and on the east
by the parish of Glenmuick. Its length westward
in a straight line is 28 miles, and its greatest breadth
is 15 miles. Its boundary line all round, except on
the east, is an alpine water shed, comprising many
of the loftiest, most massive, and most sublimely
picturesque summits in Scotland. The whole parish
is simply the upper part of the basin of the Dee,
commencing with the eastern masses of the Cairn-
gorm mountains, continuing throughout with high-
land magnificence of glen and crag and alpine pin-
nacle, and terminating at the eastern boundary in
the rich river scenery a mile above Ballater, and in
the far-famed Lochnagar. The Braemar district is
fully described in the article Beaemae. Many of
the most notable objects and localities in both dis-
tricts, such as Benmacdhu, Caientoul, Benaboued,
Beaeeiach, Lochnagae, Calladee, Ceaig-Cltjny,
Castleton, Balmoeal, Abeegeldie, and the Dee,
are also separately noticed. The Crathie district is
now a region of high interest on account of contain-
ing the autumnal residences of the Royal Family
and the Duchess of Kent ; but is sufficiently noticed
in that connexion in the articles Balmoeal and
Abeegelme. The climate, though variable, is pure,
bracing, and remarkably healthy ; insomuch that,
long before the place was brought into fame by the
Royal Family, many citizens of Aberdeen and other
strangers were in the habit of spending the summer
months in its hamlets and single houses for the
benefit of health. The far-famed forest of Mar con-
tributes something to the climate, and a vast deal
to the scenery. The aggregate area under wood
cannot be less than between 10,000 and 11,000 acres.
The prevailing rook of the parish is granite, of vari-
ous shades, generally very hard, and capable of a
fine polish. Glen Callader profusely displays the
granite in association with primitive schistose rooks.
and on that account is highly interesting to geolo-
gists. The soil of the low grounds is various, hut
principally of a loamy nature, superincumbent on
either hard thirsty gravel or dry yellow clay, and
produces good crops. The principal landowners are
the Earl of Fife and Farquharson of Invercauld.
The parish is traversed throughout by the military
road from Blairgowrie to Fort-George. Population
in 1831, 1,808; in 1861, 1,574. Houses, 340. As-
sessed property in 1843, £6,600; in 1860, £7,868.
This paiish is in the synod of Aberdeen, and pres-
bytery of Kincardine O'Neil. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £233 10s. 8d. ; glebe, £8. Unappropriated
teinds, £172 19s. Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with
£S fees. The parish church was built in 1806, and
contains about 900 sittings. There is a place of
worship in connexion with the Establishment at
Castleton, served by a Missionary of the Royal
Bounty. There are a Free church preaching-station
in Crathie, and a Free church organized place of
worship in Castleton ; and the total yearly receipts
of the former in 1865 amounted to £142 19s. 2d., and
of the latter to £111 10s. lOd. There is also a Roman
Catholic chapel in Castleton served by a resident
priest. There are eleven schools variously sup-
ported by public bodies or by private munificence.
There are also a friendly society and a savings'
bank. Some fine appliances for the improvement
of the population also have been established on the
royal properties of Balmoral and Abergeldie.
CRAWFORD, a parish, containing the village of
Crawford and the post-town of Leadhills,inthe south-
ern extremity of Lanarkshire. It forms a south-east-
erly projection from the rest of the county, and is
hounded on two sides by Dumfries-shire, on a third
by Peebles-shire, and on the fourth by the parishes of
Culter, Lamington, and Crawfordjohn. Its length
northward is about 18 miles, and its greatest breadth
is between 14 and 15 miles. It lies wholly among the
Southern Highlands, comprises a main portion of
the Lowther mountains, some of whose summits
rise about 2,450 feet above the level of the sea, and
consists throughout of irregular congeries of up-
lands, partly moorish and partly pastoral, with nu-
merous intersecting vales. A small part of it in
the south-east is the upper half of the basin of Evan
Water, and all the rest is the gathering basin of the
Clyde, — the country in which the head-streams and
early affluents of that river all rise and run down to
the influx of the Glengonnar. Good general views
of it may be got from the commencing part of our
article Clyde, and from the portion of our article
Caledonian Railway which describes the course of
that work from the immediate vicinity of Abington
to within 6 miles of Beattock. The hill pastures
amount to upwards of 70,000 acres, and are chiefly
occupied by sheep. The total aggregate of woodland
does not comprise more than 150 acres. The arable
land is various in soil, and amounts to about 1,200
acres. Gold and silver occur in minute quantities ;
slates are quarried ; and lead mines of great value
are extensively worked. The total yearly value of
raw produce was estimated in 1835 at £18,392 ; of
which £9,200 were for the produce of the sheep
pastures, and £6,000 for the produce of the lead
mines. The assessed property in 1843 was £12,341
4s. lid.; in I860. £13,774. The most extensive
landowner is the Earl of Hopetoun ; and there are
six other large landowners, and five small ones.
The only modern mansion is Newtown House, built
by the late Lord Newtown. As to antiquities, Ro-
bert Heron said in 1792, " This country is well-
known to have been wi thin the limits of the Roman
province of Valentia. Within this district are yet to
be seen the remains of two Roman roads ; and the
CRAWFORDJOHN.
315
CRAWICK-MILL.
sites of three camps, supposed to be Roman, but so
entirely effaced, that this cannot he with certainty
determined. I had an opportunity of surveying the
castle of Crawford, now desolate and ruinous, situate
close upon the river, opposite to tlio village of Craw-
ford. Its walls still stand. It is surrounded with
trees ; and by the structure appears to have been
intended not less for protection than for accommo-
dation. Tower-Lindsay, a more ancient edifice,
built on the same site, was famous in the days of
our renowned Wallace. Being occupied by an
English garrison, that hero took it by storm; kill-
ing fifty of the garrison in the assault. For secur-
ity, the farm -houses on Crawford-moor were anciently
stone-vaults, and of these some still remain. In these
strongholds, the inhabitants lurked, when invaded
by the plundering rapacity of the Douglases from
Clydesdale, and the Jardines and Johnstones from
Annandale. Various hills within this neighbour-
hood still retain the name of Watches, having been
anciently the stations of scouts, who watched the
approach of enemies, and in case of danger, lighted
fires to spread the alarm through the country." The
north-western portion of the ancient parish of Craw-
ford was held, during the reign of Malcolm IV. by
John, step-son of Baldwin de Biggar; from him, it
was called Crawford-John, and afterwards formed
the parish of that name. The more extensive part,
forming the present parish of Crawford, was held by
William de Lindsay and his successors for several
centuries, from which circumstance it came to be
called Crawford-Lindsay. The family of Lindsay
was ennobled in 1398, under the title of Earls of
Crawford. David de Lindsay, the 4th Earl, having
been a supporter of James III., lost this property in
1488, when it was bestowed on Archibald, Earl of
Angus, and came to be called Crawford-Douglas.
Prior to the Reformation, the monks of Newbattle,
by grants from the Lindsays, possessed considerable
privileges in the parish of Crawford. The road from
Glasgow to Carlisle and the main trunk of the Cale-
donian railway traverse this parish up the Clyde
and down Evan Water ; and the latter has stations
in it at Abington and Elvanfoot. The village of
Crawford stands on the Glasgow and Carlisle road
and on the left bank of the Clyde, Opposite the in-
flux of Midlock and Camps Waters, 2 miles south-
east of Abington and 19 south of Carnwath. It is
of considerable antiquity, and consists of freedoms
granted to the feuars by the neighbouring proprie-
tors. Each freedom consists of 6 acres of croft-land,
besides a portion of hill which formerly existed in
common, for grazing purposes, but is now divided.
The houses are at such a distance from each other
that they hare the appearance of being dropped on
the road. Here is a chain-bridge of 75 feet span
over the Clyde. The village has two inns, and
previous to the formation of the railway was an
important resting-place for travellers. Population
of the village in 1851, 236. Population of the par-
ish in 1831, 1,850; in 1861, 1,590. Houses, 311.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Lanark, and svnod of Glasgow and Ayr.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend £233 13s. 7d. ; glebe
£12 10s. Unappropriated teinds, £623 9s. lid.
Schoolmaster's salary is £52 10s., with about £16
fees. The parish church is an old building, repaired
in 1835, and containing 320 sittings. There is a
chapel of ease at Leadhills. There are five private
schools. See Cults and Balcarres.
CRAWFORD CASTLE. See Cults.
CEAAVFORDJOHN, a parish, containing the
village of Crawfordjohn and the post-office village
of Abington, in the south-west of the upper ward of
Lanarkshire. It is bounded on the south-west by
Dumfries-shire and Ayrshire, and on other sides by
the parishes of Douglas, Wiston, Lamington, and
Crawford. Its length is between 11 and 12 miles,
and its breadth is between 9 and 10. The Clyde
runs nearly 3 miles along the eastern boundary;
and two chief tributaries come down to it there, —
the Glengonnar on the boundary with Crawford,
and the Duneaton through the whole length of the
interior of Crawfordjohn. The surface of the parish
is all hilly and chiefly pastoral, with the exception
of small holms and hollows along the course of the
streams. But much the highest ground is Cairu-
table, on the mutual boundary with Douglas and
Ayrshire, which has an elevation of 1,650 feet above
sea-level; and most of the other hills have a flow-
ing outline, a flattish summit, and a grassy cover-
ing. About 3,200 acres are arable, and not more
than 50 are under wood. The total yearly value of
raw produce, with the exception of some inconsider-
able items, was estimated in 1836 at £11,663. The
assessed property in 1860 was £8,430. The real
rental in 1854 is £6,577. There are five principal
landowners; but there is no mansion except one of
Sir T. E. Colebrooke. There are limestone, white
freestone, and an appearance of coal in this parish ;
and a lead mine was commenced about 20 years ago
at Snar. In other parts of the parish are the marks
of former mines, which, report says, were wrought
in search of gold. On the top of Netherton hill,
opposite the house of Gilkerscleugh, are the vestiges
of an extensive encampment; and at Mosscastle,
Glendorch, and Snar, are vestiges of three ancient
castles. The Glasgow and Carlisle road passes up
the east margin of the parish; and the Caledonian
railway has a station at Abington. The village of
Crawfordjohn stands on Duneaton Water, 3f miles
above its influx to the Clyde. Population of the
village 137. Population of' the parish in 1831, 991;
in 1861, 980. Houses, 173.
This parish, formerly a rectory, is in the presby
tery of Lanark, and synod of Glasgow and Ayr.
Patron, Sir T. E. Colebrooke, Bart. Stipend, £233
13s. 7d.; glebe, £16. Unappropriated teinds, £167
5s. Schoolmaster's salary is £50, with about £26
fees. The parish church was repaired and enlarged
in 1817, and contains 310 sittings. There is a Free
church preaching-station; and the yearly sum raised
in connection with it in 1865 was £26 14s. There
are three non-parochial schools.
CRAWFORD-LINDSAY. See Crawfokd.
CRAWFORD PRIORY. See Cults.
CRAWFURDLAND. See Kilmarnock (The).
CRAWFURDSDIKE. See Cartsdike and Greex-
OCK.
CRAWICK (The), a beautiful stream in the
north-west wing of Dumfries-shire. It rises among
the Lowther mountains on the confines of Lanark-
shire, and dividing the parish of Sanquhar from
Kirkconnel, after a south-west course of about 8
miles, falls into the Nith near Sanquhar manse.
This river, near its head, receives two streams more
copious than itself; viz. the Wanlock from the
south-east, and the Spango from the north-west.
It winds between pleasant green hills, till the
scenery gradually changes to finely-wooded banks
and cultivated lawns.
CRAWICK-BRIDGE, a hamlet in the parish of
Sanquhar, Dumfries-shire.
CRAWICK-MILL, a village on Crawick Water,
in the parish of Sanquhar, A a mile north-west of
the town of Sanquhar, but within the burgh bounds
of that town, Dumfries-shire. Here is an extensive
manufactory of carpets and tartans. Population in
1851, 144.
CRAWLEY SPRING. See Gi.escross.
CJRAWTON.
316
CRICHTON.
CEAWTON, a fishing village ill the parish of
Dunnottar, 4 miles south of Stonehaven, Kincar-
dineshire.
CEAY. See Blaikgowkie.
CEEACHBEN, a mountain in the Sunart district
of the parish of Arduamurchan, Argyleshire. Its
altitude ahove sea-level is 2,439 feet.
CEEANWALL ISLES, two uninhabited islets
in the Hebridean parish of Barra.
CEEE (The), a river partly of Ayrshire, but
chiefly of Galloway. It rises on the south-east
skirts of Carrick, in two head streams ; the one is-
suing from Loch Dornal, and known as the Cree
proper; the other rising on the southern skirts of
Eldrick hill, receiving an augmentation from Loch
Moan, and flowing south, under the name of the
Minnock water, to a junction with the Cree proper,
about 1J mile below the High Bridge of Cree. Thus
far the streams flow through a bleak moorland
country; but at this point the united river begins
to move for several miles at a most sluggish pace
through rich meadows; and, being at the same time
considerably increased in breadth, it forms a long
beautiful sheet of water, called the Loch of Cree.
It is now skirted for nearly 3 miles on its left bank
by an ancient forest of oak, birch, ash, and hazel,
called the Wood of Cree. On leaving this, it loses
its sluggishness, and for some miles goes merrily
along a fertile valley; and afterwards, about a mile
above the church of Minigaff, it enters a narrow
gorge whose sides are richly clothed with wood.
This latter reach is termed the Gill, and forms one
of the finest pieces of river-scenery in the south of
Scotland. At the village of Minigaff, the Cree re-
ceives the Penkill. Below Minigaff it passes New-
town-Stewart, enters an expanded valley, widens,
becomes tortuous, forms a long narrow tidal estuary,
receives the tribute of the Palnure, and pours its accu-
mulated treasures into the head of Wigton bay. It
has altogether a run of about 25 miles, generally in
a south-eastward direction ; and, while within Gal-
loway, it wholly forms the boundary line between
Kirkcudbrightshire and Wigtonskire. It is navi-
gable for vessels of 80 tons to Carry, within 2 miles
of Newtown-Stewart ; and it has been a chief means
of all the agricultural improvements which have
been made in this part of the country. It produces
excellent fish of different kinds ; salmon in consider-
able quantities. The smelt, or sparling, a very rare
fish, is also found in the Cree. It is found in only
one other river in Scotland, viz. the Forth at Stir-
ling. The sparlings make their appearance in the
Cree only during a few days in March, at which
time they are often caught in great quantities.
They taste and smell strongly of rushes ; but this
flavour is to most people agreeable.
CEEEBEIDGE, a village on the left bank of the
Cree, in the parish of Minigaff, Kirkcudbrightshire.
Here is a small tan-work. Population, 262.
CEEETOWN, a small post-town and seaport in
the parish of Kirkmabreck, Kirkcudbrightshire. It
stands at the mouth of the Cree, where the estuary
of that river becomes identified with Wigton bay, 7£
miles south-east of Newtown-Stewart ; and it has
a station on the Castle-Douglas and Portpatrick
railway. Its site is between two burns and four
bridges, amid a great expanse of very beautiful
scenery. It contains a few old houses, but is chiefly
a modern place ; and it has such a profusion of gar-
den-ground, richly stocked with fruit trees that, in
the time of blossom, it looks to be all sitting in an
orchard. It has a town-hall, a lock-up house, a sub-
scription library, several schools, and an United
Presbyterian church ; and in the near neighbour-
hood is the parish church. Several kinds of manu-
facture have been tried, but either with no success
or very little. A sailing vessel or two belong to
the town, several other vessels statedly frequent it,
and some more occasionally visit it; yet they have
no better accommodation for loading and unload-
ing than to lie upon the beach. A village of the
name of Creth stood here in the year 1300, and was
then the rendezvous of an English army. Either
that village or a successor to it became nearly ex-
tinct in last century, under the name of Ferry-Town
of Cree. The present town was founded in 1785,
embracing however some houses which still re-
mained of the old village ; and it was made a burgh
of barony in 1792. It is governed by a bailie and four
councillors, who are elected triennially by the resident
feuars. Population in 1841, 984; in 1861, 969.
Houses, 169.
CEEGGAN FEEEY, a line of transit across Loch
Fyne, at Strachur, Argyleshire.
CEEICH. See Ckiech.
CKEEAN (Loch), an arm of the sea, deflecting
from the lower part of Loch Linnhe opposite the
island of Lismore, penetrating the mainland east-
ward and north-eastward, and separating the district
of Appin from the parish of Ardchattan, Argyle-
shire. Its length is about 10 miles ; but its breadth
is very variable, and nowhere more than 1J mile.
The main coast line of road crosses it at Shean
ferry, about 4 miles from Loch Linnhe. A beauti-
ful well-wooded island, called Eriska, lies in the
mouth of Loch Creran, containing pasture and arable
land, and forming a pleasant farm. A stream called
the Creran, of about 7 or 8 miles in length of course,
runs into the head of Loch Creran, and gives the
name of Glen-Creran to the mountain-vale which it
traverses. It is an excellent salmon stream. A
lead and copper mine is worked at Minefield in
Glen-Creran, near the head of Loch Creran. It
yields ores of argentiferous galena, and of copper,
and brown blende. The works comprise a power-
ful crushing-mill, a complete set of washing ap-
paratus, and house accommodation for miners and
workmen.
CEICHTON, a parish, containing the villages of
Crichton and Pathhead, part of the village of Fala-
Dam, and part of the post-office village of Ford, on
the eastern border of Edinburghshire. It is bounded
by Haddingtonshire, and by the parishes of Cranston.
Fala, Heriot, and Borthwick. Its length north-
ward is 5 J miles; and its greatest breadth is 4 J
miles. " The ground in this parish and neighbour-
hood," says the New Statistical Account, " is re-
markable for its undulating nature; hill and dale
following each other in almost unbroken succession.
It may be remarked that these inequalities have
been becoming more strikingly apparent for some
years back ; in several instances, indeed, new irre-
gularities of the surface are observable, and spaces
of whole acres are visibly sinking from their former
level, and forming large hollows, which but a short
time ago could scarcely be noticed." The parish
contains about 3,900 Scots acres, of which five-
sixths are well-adapted for tillage, having a rich
deep soil, capable of producing heavy crops. The
remainder is overgrown with moss, on a wet soft
sand of clay bottom. Belts of fir encircle the high
grounds, and give a sheltered appearance to the
whole district. The head-streams of the Tyne rise
in the southern extremity of the parish; and the
main one runs slowly along the western boundary,
while the others diversify the interior. Limestone
of excellent quality is veiy extensively quarried.
Coal exists, but is not worked. William Burn Cal-
lander, Esq., is by far the largest landowner; and
there are four others. The total yearly value of
CRICHTON.
317
CR1ECII.
raw agricultural produce was estimated in 1839 at
±'9,360. The assessed property in JSGO was £6,667.
At Longfaugh, on a rising-ground which commands
an extensive and very beautiful prospect, is a
Roman camp, whose vallum is still very distinct.
But the chief antiquity is Crichton Castle, a very
ancient and magnificent structure, famous in Scot-
tish story, and associated with many notable events.
It overhangs a beautiful little glen through which
the Tyne slowly meanders. It is a square massive
building, with a court in the centre ; and appears to
be composed of parts built in different ages, yet
upon a systematic plan. Sir Walter Scott refers the
tower on the north-west angle to the 14th century.
The walls of the central part exhibit diamond-
shaped facets ; and the soffits of the principal stair-
case are likewise covered with elaborate and curious
work, presenting twining cordage and rosettes.
Some of the rooms are still in a great measure en-
tire in the general outline. On the forfeiture of
William, 3d Lord Crichton, this castle was granted
to Sir John Ramsay of Balmain; from whom it
afterwards passed, by forfeiture, to Patrick Hepburn,
chief of that name, and 3d Lord Hales, ancestor of
the celebrated Earl of Bothwell. On the forfeiture
of this last nobleman in 1567, Crichton became the
property of the Crown, but was granted to Francis
Stewart, Earl of Bothwell. It has subsequently
passed through the hands of a dozen proprietors,
from one of whom, Hepburn of Humbie, who ac-
quired it about the year 1649, it has derived a
designation by which it is not unfrequently known
among the common people of the district — ' Hum-
bie's Wa's.' Sir Walter Scott, in the 4th canto of
' Marmion,1 has thus minutely described this relic
of feudal ages :
"That castle rises on the steep
Of the green vale of Tyne:
And far beneath, where slow they creep,
From pool to eddy, dark and deep, —
Where alders moist, and willows weep, —
You hear her streams repine.
The towers in different ages rose;
Their various architecture shows
The builder's various hands!
A mighty mass that could oppose,
When deadliest hatred fired its foes,
The vengeful Douglas bands.
Crichton! though now thy miry court
But pens the lazy steer and sheep;
Thy turrets rude, and totter'd keep,
Have been the minstrel's loved resort.
Oft have I traced within thy fort,
Of mouldering shields the mystic sense,
Scutcheons of honour, or pretence,
Quarter'd in old armorial sort.
Remains of rude magnificence.
Nor wholly yet has time defaced
Thy lordly gallery fair;
Nor yet the stony cord unbraced
Whose twisted knots, with roses laced,
Adorn thy ruin'd stair.
Still rises unimpaired below
The court-yard's graceful portico
Above its cornice, row and row
Of fair hewn facets richly show
Their pointed diamond form;
Though there but houseless cattle go
To shield them from the storm ;
And, shuddering, still, may we explore,
Where oft whilom were captives pent,
The darkness of thy Massy-More;
Or from thy grass-grown battlement,
May trace, in undulating line,
The sluggish mazes of the Tyne."
The parish of Crichton is traversed along the east
by the road from Edinburgh to Lauder, and along
the west by that from Ford to the vale of Gala
Water. The village of Crichton stands on the lat-
ter, a small distance north of Crichton Castle, and 6
miles south-south-east of Dalkeith. The chief seat
of both population and trade, however, is in the
northern angle of the parish, at Pathhead and Ford.
Population of the village of Crichton in 1851, 122.
Population of the parish in 1831, 1,325; in 1861,
1,364. Houses, 204.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the pres-
bytery of Dalkeith, and synod of Lothian and
Tweeddale. Patron, Burn Callander, Esq. Sti-
pend, £264 0s. Id.; glebe, £15. Unappropriated
teinds, £43 18s. 6d. Schoolmaster's salary now is
£55, with about £30 fees. The church, which is a
venerable building in the form of a cross, the west-
ern end having been left unfinished, was made col-
legiate on the 26th of December, 1449, by Sir
William Crichton, Chancellor of Scotland, with con-
sent of James Crichton of Frendraught, Knight, his
son and heir, for a provost, 8 prebendaries, and 2
singing-boys, out of the rents of Crichton and
Locherworth, and a mensal church, belonging to
the archbishop of St. Andrews; reserving to the
bishop the patronage of the prebends of Vogrie,
Amiston, Middleton, and Locherworth. After the
Reformation, the church-lands of Crichton, and the
parsonage-tithes which belonged of old to the rec-
tory of Crichton, were acquired by Sir Gideon Mur-
ray, the last provost of the collegiate church, who
obtained a grant converting these collegiate lands
into temporal estates. Sir Gideon was treasurer-
depute to James VI., and died in 1621, leaving
those estates to his son, Patrick, who was created
Lord Elibank in 1643. The church has heen tho-
roughly repaired, and seats about 600. There is a
Free church at Pathhead: attendance, 200; yearly
sum raised in 1865, £49 3s. OJd. There is an
United Presbyterian church in the Cranston section
of Ford. There are three private schools.
CRICHUP (The). See Closebukn. _
CRIECH, or Creich, a parish, containing the vil-
lages of Luthrie and Brunton, the former of which
has a post-office, in the north of Fifeshire. It
reaches within f of a mile of the frith of Tay, and
is bounded by the parishes of Flisk, Balmerino,
Kilmany, Moonzie, Monimail, Dunbog, and Abdie.
Its length northward is about 3 miles; and its
greatest breadth is nearly 2 miles. The surface is
a congeries of hills, of various forms and sizes, none
higher than ahout 550 feet above sea-level, some
cultivated to the summit, others partly covered with
wood, and others rocky or moorish. Two of the
summits, Black Craig and Green Craig, command
superb views of the basin of the Tay, away to the
Sidlaws and the Grampians. The parish is drained
by the head-streams of the Motray, a tributary of
the Eden. Whinstone and grey sandstone are
quarried. There are eight landowners. The real
rental is ahout £3,760. The total yearly value of
raw produce was estimated in 1838 at £10,310.
Assessed property in 1866, £3,768 7s. lid. The
estate and castle of Crieeh, on the north end of this
parish, anciently belonged to the Bethunes, of which
family was Janet Bethune, the Lady Buccleuch
celebrated in the 'Lay of the Last Minstrel,' and
Mary Bethune, one of 'the Queen's four Maries.'
The Rev. Alexander Henderson, celehrated for his
stanch opposition to episcopacy, and who has found
an able biographer in the Rev. Dr. Aiton of Dol-
phinton, was bom in this parish in 1583. The Rev.
John Sage, the first of the post-revolution bishops,
was also a native of this parish. On a little emi-
nence near the church are the vestiges of a Roman
camp, with two lines of circumvallation. _ There is
another of the same kind on a higher hill, to the
west of the former. Both are about a mile distant
from the Tay. Population in 1831,419; in 1861.
377. Houses, 83.
CEIECH.
318
CRIEFF.
This parish, anciently a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Cupar-Fife, and synod of Fife. Patron,
Grant of Congelton. Stipend, £227 14s. Id.; glebe,
£7. Unappropriated teinds, £18 17s. 5d. School-
master's salary now is £35, "with about £18 fees,
and some other emoluments. The parish church,
which is at Luthrie, was built in 1830-2. It is a
handsome structure in the pointed style, and con-
tains 252 sittings. The ruins of the old church near
the northern extremity of the palish, indicate con-
siderable antiquity. There is a Free church jointly
for Flisk and Criech. There are also a Free church
school and a subscription library.
CEIECH, a parish, containing the post-office
village of Bonar- Bridge, in the south of Suther-
landshire. It extends south-eastward from Ben-
more-Assynt to within 3 miles of Dornoch. It is
bounded by Dornoch parish on the east ; by the
Dornoch frith, and the Oikell river, which separate
it from Boss-shire, on the south ; by Assyut on the
west ; and by Lairg on the north. Its length is
about 30 miles ; and its breadth varies from 2 to 10
miles. About one-thirtieth part only is cultivated ;
the rest being billy, and covered with moory ground.
A vast number of sheep and black cattle are reared
on the heathy grounds. The arable soil is light and
thin, except at the east end, where there is a deep
loam. There are some meadows on the banks of
the Oikell, and the rivulets which run into it. The
two rivers Shin and Cassley run across the parish,
into the Oikell. There are also several lakes
abounding with trout, of which the largest are Loch
Migdall and Loch Ailsh. There is a great deal of
natural wood, principally of oak and birch; and
there are several plantations of fir. At Invershin,
near the confluence of the Shin with the Oikell, is a
fine cataract. The scenery along the strath and
hill-flanks of the Oikell is very diversified, and com-
prises some highly picturesque views, but will be
noticed in the article Oikell (The). There are two
quarries of very hard whinstone. The salmon-fish-
ings of the Shin are veiy valuable. The real rental
of the parish, exclusive of fishings, is about £3,700.
There are five landowners. Near the church is an
obelisk, 8 feet long and 4 broad, said to have been
erected in memory of a Danish chief who was in-
terred here. On the top of the Dun of Criech is a
fortification, which is said to have been erected about
the beginning of the 12th century by an ancestor of
the Earl of Boss. The parish is traversed by four
excellent government roads. Population in 1831,
2,562 ; in 1861, 2,521. Houses, 549. Assessed pro-
perty in 1843, £4,811 8s. 3d. ; in 1860, £5,466.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Dornoch, and synod of Sutherland and Caith-
ness. Patrons, the Crown, and the Duke of Suther-
land. Stipend, £208 18s. 9d.; glebe, £5. Unappro-
priated teinds, £86 17s. 9d. Schoolmaster's salary
now is £52 10s., with fees. The parish church stands
near the shore of the Dornoch frith, about 3 miles
south-east of Bonar-Bridge. It was built in 1790,
and contains 500 sittings. There is a mission of
the Royal Bounty at Bosehall. There is one Free
church at Criech, with an attendance of 800, and
another at Rosehall, with an attendance of 420.
The yearly sum raised in 1865 in connexion with
the former was £200 6s. 6|d., and with the latter
£95 2s. 7id. There are two Assembly's schools.
CBIEFF, a parish, containing a post-town of the
same name, in the central part of Perthshire. A
large division of it is separated from the rest by the
intervention of the parish of Monzie. This division
comprises Corriemucklook and the greater part of
Glenalmond. It is highland in character, abounding
in wild and romantic scenery, and full of attraction to
sportsmen. It belongs to three proprietors, and
yields a real rental of about £2,300. Two other dis-
tricts, belonging to other proprietors, also lie de-
tached,— Callander, comprising several farms, to the
north-west of Monzie House, — and Achalhanzie,
consisting of one farm, to the east of Cultoquhey
House. But all these districts are attached quoad
sacra to the parish of Monzie. The main district,
containing the town of Crieff, constituting the whole
quoad sacra parish of Crieff, lies in Stratheam, and
is bounded by Foulis- Wester, Monzie, Monivaird,
Madderty, and Muthill. Its length south-eastward
is about 4 miles ; and its breadth is about 3 miles.
The Turrit traces the western boundary ; the Shaggy
traces part of the north-western ; the Pow traces the
eastern; and the Earn, except for cutting off one
farm of about 100 acres, traces all the southern.
The surface exhibits the luxuriant loveliness which
general fame so justly ascribes to Stratheam. The
only eminences in it worth mentioning are Callum
Hill and the Knock of Crieff, — the latter elevated
about 400 feet above sea-level. About 560 acres are
under wood. A gritty sandstone is extensively
quarried. Lord Willoughby D'Eresby, Moray of
Abercaimey, and the proprietors of Femtower,
Broich, Inchbrackie, and Crieff, are principal land-
owners. The parish is traversed by the Crief Junc-
tion railway, which was amalgamated in 1865 with
the Caledonian ; by the Crief andMethven Junction
railway, which was opened in May 1866 ; and by
the Crief and Comrie railway, which was in progress
in 1866. Pop. in 1831, 4,786; in 1S61, 4,490. Houses,
672. Assessed property in 1866, £16,993 8s. 5d.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Auehterarder, and synod of Perth and Stir-
ling. Patrons, the Trustees of Lady Willoughby
D'Eresby. Stipend, £182 14s. ; glebe, £10. School-
master's salary, £50. The parish church was built
in 1786, and repaired in 1827, and contains 966 sit-
tings. A quoad sacra parish church, called the
West Church, was built in 1837, contains 1,000 sit-
tings, and is in the patronage of the male communi-
cants. There is a Free church ; and the sum raised
in connexion with it in 1865 was £590 5s. 4id.
There are also two United Presbyterian churches,
an Episcopalian chapel, a Baptist chapel, and a Bo-
man Catholic chapel.
The Town or Crieff stands adjacent to the Earn,
on the w est road from Perth to Stirling, 6 J miles
east of Comrie, 10 miles south of Amulree, 17 west
by south of Perth, and 21 north-north-east of Stir-
ling. Its site is the gently elevated skirt of a beau-
tiful, wood -crowned hill, sheltered from the east
winds, overlooking a fine reach of Stratheam, and
commanding a rich prospect of farms, pleasure-
grounds, water, woods, hills, and mountains to the
west. Any array or even sprinkling of villas and
cottages-ornees, so common in the outskirts of the
prosperous second and third class towns of Scotland,
is here totally awanting ; but great numbers of pro-
prietorial mansions of high character adorn the en-
virons for miles and miles in all directions, — and
these environs themselves comprise a rich breadth
of luxuriant strath, abundantly relieved by natural
diversities, and profusely beautified by every kind
of culture, till they grandly rise to the clouds at
no great distance in the frontier summits of the
Grampians. The view from the Knock of Crieff,
and that from the top of Tuiieum, two mDes to the
south-west, are remarkably brilliant. Ferntower
House in the vicinity entertains properly introduced
strangers with a sight of Tippoo Saib's sword, pre-
sented to Sir David Baird at Seringapatan. Several
walks of moderate length, lead through exquisite
close scenery to objects of eminent interest : among
CRIEFF.
319
CRIMOND.
others, one of two miles southward to Drummond
Castle [see that article], and one of three miles
westward to Tonmachastle, a fine wooded eminence,
surmounted bv an obelisk of Aberdeen granite, 84
feet high, to the memory of Sir David Baird.
The town comprises three main streets, concentrat-
ing in a neat square. It has in recent years been
greatly increased by the building ol'mew houses on
its south and west sides; and it adjoins the village
of Bridgend, within the parish of Muthill. It pos-
sesses gas-works, a good supply of water, three
hotels, two temperance hotels, three large halls for
public assemblies, an excellent academy, another
large educational institution, an excellent boarding-
school for young ladies, and several other schools.
A hydropathic establishment, on a site of about 7
acres, on a rising-ground to the north of the academy,
was projected in 1866 by the proprietors of the hydro-
pathic establishment at Lochhead, near Aberdeen;
the building for it was estimated to cost £16,000;
and the water supply for it was to be drawn from a
hill-stream fully two miles distant. In one of the
streets, on a spot which formerly was near the
middle of the town, stands on a base of hewn stone
an ancient cross, curiously carved in front, 6J feet
high and nearly 2 feet broad. It was brought hither,
perhaps, 100 or 150 years ago, from the neighbour-
ing estate of Strowan ; but its previous history is un-
known. A little to the west of the town, adjacent
to a street to which it has given name, is the Gallow
Hill, a rising ground where the sentences of the
Seneschals or Steward's of the King's estate of
Strathearn were carried into execution. These
judges were the only Counts- Palatine in Scotland;
they were all of the House of Drummond, — first by
individual appointment, and afterwards hereditarily ;
they held sway from the third decade of the 14th
century till the abolition of hereditary" jurisdictions
in 1748 ; and many curious traditionary stories are
told respecting the severity of their judgments.
They held their courts, till 1665, in the open air;
and their gibbet always stood ready for work on the
Gallow Hill. This dismal implement was derisively
known far and near as " the kind gallows of Crieff; "
the Highlanders, when passing it, used to touch
their bonnets and utter a hearty imprecation ; and
Sir Walter Scott, who alludes to it in Waverley,
seems to think that they called it "the kind gallows,"
from thinking it " a sort of native or kindred place
of doom to those who suffered there, as in fulfilment
of a natural destiny." In 1665 were built a jail and
covered court-house ; and here was a secondary place
of punishment in dismal keeping with the relentless
use of the gallows. It was a small arched dungeon,
secured by a strong iron door, and containing a
netted iron safe, large enough to hold a man, and
covered with a lid of solid metal. The jail came
eventually to be a strange compound of cell, court-
room, shop, dwelling-house, and mercantile store,
and was adorned outwardly with a spire and clock ;
but in 1S42, it was pulled down, and a new one was
erected on its site.
Crieff is the capital of Strathearn, the second town
of Perthshire, the key of the great military road
northward by Amulree, and the vestibule to the
richly scenic series of glens which leads out from
Lochearn to Menteith, Breadalbane, and the north-
western Highlands ; and, on all these grounds, is a
place of considerable trade and thoroughfare. It is
also famous for the salubrity of its climate, — par-
ticularly for its sheltered site, its pure air, its excel-
lent water, and its comparative freedom from epi-
demics ; and hence has long been esteemed the
Montpelier of Scotland, and is a favourite resort of
invalids in quest of health. It has likewise a fair
amount of institutions for promoting the general
well-being of its population and frequenters, — a
subscription library, a subscription reading-room,
a mechanics' institution, charitable institutions, and
a horticultural association. Here also are branches
of the Commercial Bank, the Central Bank, and the
City of Glasgow Bank. The chief manufactures of the
town are the making of leather in three tan-works,
the making of coarse kind of linens and worsteds, and
the weaving of cotton goods for the Glasgow manu-
facturers. There are about 500 weavers' looms in
the parish. There are also on the Turrit, all within
three-quarters of a mile, a barley mill, a flour mill,
two corn mills, a bark mill, a flax mill, a linseed
oil mill, a saw and turning mill, and a woollen
factory. For a long time preceding the establish-
ment of the Falkirk trysts in 1 770, Crieff was the
great Scottish market for the sale of black cattle ;
and, in consequence of being on the line of the
great military road, it is still much frequented by
Highland drovers. A weekly market is held every
Thursday; and fairs are held on the first Thursday
of January and April, the second Thursday of March
and July, the third Thursday of February and Au-
gust, the first and last Thursday of June, and the
Thursday in October before Falkirk. Two weekly
newspapers, the Strathearn Herald and the Crief
Journal, are published on Saturday.
Crief is a place of considerable antiquity ; yet
does not appear in record earlier than in a charter
of the year 1218. During the civil wars of the 17th
century, it was repeatedly the head-quarters of the
army of Montrose. It was burnt by the Highland-
ers in 1715, and narrowly escaped the same fate in
1745. It was erected into a burgh, under the gen-
eral police and improvement act, in 1862; and is
governed by a provost, two other magistrates, and a
body of commissioners. A sheriff small debt court
is held on the first Saturday of February, May, Au-
gust, and November. Population in 1841, 3,584;
in 1861, 3,903. Houses, 557.
CRIEVE. See Tonoeegarth.
CEIFFEL, a short isolated range of mountains in
the parishes of Newabbey and ICirkbean, Kircud-
brightshire. It overhangs the shore of the estuary
of the Nith, 9 miles south of Dumfries, and is a con-
spicuous background to the landscapes of most ot
the lower parts of Dumfries-shire. Its highest
summit has an altitude of 1,S95 feet above sea-level.
The Criffel district of granite and syenite exhibits
many interesting appearances of apparent fragments
of cotemporaneous veins and transitions into por-
phyry. The rocks which rest immediately on the
granite, or syenite, are fine granular compact gneiss,
slaty syenite, hornblende rock, and compact felspar
rock. These rocks alternate with each other, and
sometimes even with the syenite or granite ; and
cotemporaneous veins of granite are to be observed
shooting from the granite into the adjacent stratified
rocks.
CRIMOND, a parish, containing a post-office
station of its own name, in the district of Buchan,
Aberdeenshire. It lies upon the coast, nearly at an
equal distance from Fraserburgh and Peterhead.
Its outline is triangular; the base being nearly 3
miles, and the height of the triangle about 5J. It
contains 4,600 acres, of which 3,000 are arable; the
remainder is occupied by mosses and downs. About
a quarter of a mile from high-water-mark, there is
a steep hill stretching along the shore, and pre-
senting a face almost perpendicular, and nearly 200
feet in height. From the summit of this ridge, the
ground gradually descends into a low flat valley,
at the bottom of which is the lake of Strathbeg,
partly in this parish, partly in that of Lonmay
CEINAN CANAL.
320
CEOICK.
covering 550 acres. See Stkathbeg. Near the east
end of the Lake of Strathbeg is a small hill called
the Castle-hill, where Cumyn, Earl of Buchan, had
a castle. About a quarter of a mile south of this
eminence, formerly stood the burgh of Rattray,
which is said to have enjoyed all the privileges of a
royal burgh, except sending members to parliament.
See Rattray. Quarries of excellent building stone
and road-metal are worked. Considerable planta-
tions have recently been made. There are five
chief landowners. The real rental is about £4,800.
The total yearly value of raw produce was estimated
in 1842 at £15,624. Assessed property in 1860,
£4,728. Fairs are held at Candlemas, on the 4th
Tuesday of August, old style, and on the Tuesday
after the 18th day of October. Population in 1831,
879; in 1861, 892. Houses, 170.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, belonging to the
chapter of Aberdeen, is in the presbytery of Deer,
and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Earl of Fife.
Stipend, £204 7s. 10d.; glebe, £6. Unappropriated
teinds, £58 16s. Schoolmaster's salary now is £42
10s., with fees. The parish church was built in
1812, and contains 500 sittings. There are several
small schools for girls. There is also a parochial
library.
CRIMOND-MOGATE. See Lonmay.
CRINAMIL. See Ckeaxmdxl.
CRINAN CANAL, a work at the head of the
peninsula of Kintyre in Argyleshire, intended to
afford a communication between Loch Gilp and the
Western ocean, so as to avoid the difficult and cir-
cuitous passage of 70 miles round the Mull of Kin-
tyre. It was undertaken in 1793, by subscription
of shareholders, under an act of parliament; and
was opened on July 18, 1801. The original esti-
mate by the late Mr. Rennie, was £63,678, and the
sum subscribed by the proprietors, and first ex-
pended upon it, amounted to upwards of £108,000.
This sum, however, proving to he totally insufficient
for its completion — chiefly in consequence of the in-
tersection of the line by whinstone rock and peat-
moss— subsequent advances were made by Govern-
ment, at different periods, under the authority of
Parliament, to the extent of nearly £75,000 ; to se-
cure which sum, the canal was transferred on mort-
gage to the barons of exchequer in Scotland, whose
functions have since devolved on the lords of the
treasury. The latest advance was made in 1817,
and the act which authorized it provided that it
should be expended under the superintendence of
the commissioners for the Caledonian canal, who,
at the desire of the treasury, undertook to continue
the management of the canal after the expenditure
of the grant; and, under their direction, it has sub-
sequently remained. The canal is about 9 miles
long, and contains 15 locks, — 13 of whch are 96 feet
long, 24 feet wide, and about 12 feet deep, and 2 are
108 feet long and 27 wide. It is navigable by vessels
of 200 tons burden. Of the locks, 8 are used in as-
cending from Loch Gilp or Ardrishaig, at the east end ;
and 7 in descending to Crinan at the west end, where
there is a convenient wharf and slip. It is chiefly
used by small coasting and fishing-vessels, and by
the steam-boats which ply between Inverness and
the Clyde, which are made inconveniently narrow to
pass through it. Since this canal was first opened
to the public, the revenues arising from the tolls
have, on an average, been scarcely sufficient to
cover the annual expenses of the establishment and
of the repairs; and no dividend or interest has ever
been paid, either to the original proprietors, or to
government. The revenue of it during 1838 was
£1,903, and the expenditure £1,671, leaving a sur-
plus of £232. As respects balance, this is a favour-
able statement compared with former years, in which,
on an average, the expenditure and receipts were
nearly equal. In 1839, the dues received amounted to
£1,950, of which £322 arose from steam-boats; the
expenditure during the same year was £1,833. The
trade during the preceding fifteen years increased,
but not above £200 or £300 on an average of several
years ; so that in the financial view, the Crinan and
Caledonian canal were much upon a par. The dilapi-
dated state of the works, — the frequent insufficiency
of the depth of water, — the difficult nature of some
parts of the navigation, — and the absence of many
facilities which might be afforded, were believed to
be the principal causes of the canal not being more,
frequented. But contemporaneously with the great;
recent repairs on the Caledonian canal, some impor-
tant repairs were made on the Crinan canal. The
gates of some of the locks were removed ; the ori-
ginal depth at places where deposits had been made
by burns was restored ; and an additional depth of
nearly two feet in the eastern entrance through the
harbour of Ardrishaig was gained, thereby greatly
diminishing the detention of vessels arriving from
Loch Fyne at low states of the tide. A great reduc-
tion also was made on the dues and the harbour rates.
The immediate consequence was a great increase in
traffic. In the year ending 30th April 1851, the
number of passages through the canal was 2,237,
comprising 604 by steamers, 1,174 by sailing ves-
sels, and 459 by boats; and the amount of dues was
£2,152. In the year ending 30th April 1865, the
number of passages was 1,887, comprising 516 by
steamers, 939 by sailing vessels, and 432 by boats.
The receipts in the year ending 30tli April 1865
amounted to £3,450, — in the previous year, to £3,605 ;
and the expenditure in the year ending 30th April
1865 amounted to £3,661, — in the previous year to
£4,545. — In the autumn of 1847, the royal family on
their way to and from Ardverikie were conveyed
through the Crinan canal.
CRINAN (Loch), an arm of the sea, which gives
name to the above canal, opening from the sound of
Jura, and running in a south-east direction into
North Knapdale. The scenery at the entrance is
wild and beautiful ; but greatly inferior to that of
the neighbouring loch, on the north, Loch Craig-
nish. There is a post-office station of Crinan.
CROCKETFORD, a post-office village in the par-
ishes of Urr and Kirkpatrick - Durham, Kirkcud-
brightshire. It stands 1 0 miles north-east of Castle-
Douglas, on the north road thence to Dumfries.
Population in 1851 of the entire village, 239; of the
Urr division, 122.
CROE (The), a short impetuous river of the south-
west of Ross-shire. It rises in a number of small
streams near the confines of Inverness-shire, and
runs along the boundary between the parish of Kin-
tail and the parish of Glenshiel to the east end of
Loch Duich.
CROFTANRIGH. See Daley.
CROFTDYKE, a suburb of the town of Ceres,
Fifeshire. Population, 129.
CROFTHEAD, a village in the parish of Neil-
ston, Renfrewshire. It stands on the Levern about
5 of a mile south-west of the village of Neilston. A
cotton factory was built here so long ago as 1792.
The Glasgow and Neilston railway terminates here ;
and an extension of it will go hence to Kilmarnock.
Population, 375.
CROFTS. See Ckossmichael.
CROGO. See Balmacleixan.
CROICK, a quoad sacra parish within the quoad
civilia parish of Kincardine, Ross-shire. It was
constituted by the Court of Teinds in March 1846.
The church was built, at the expense of the Govern-
n
CROM.
321
CROMARTY FRITH.
ment, in 1827. It stands in a. sequestered valley
about 12 miles from Bonar Bridge. Stipend, £12(3.
Population in 1851, 316.
CROLIN. See Croulin.
CROM-, a prefix in a few Scottish descriptive
topographical names, signifying curved or crooked,
— as Cromdale, ' the curved or crooked dale.'
CROM A R, a division of tho district of Mar, in
Aberdeenshire, comprehending the parishes of Coul,
Tarland, Migvy, Logie - Coldstone, and part of
Tulloeh.
CROMARTY, a parish, containing a post-town of
the same name, in the north-east of the old county
of Cromarty. It is bounded by the Cromarty frith
on the north, the Moray frith on the east, and the
parishes of Rosemarkie and Resolis on the south
and west. Its length is 7 miles, and its breadth
from 1 to 4. The burn of Ethie defines the southern
boundary, and flows, for the last two miles, through
a deep picturesque ravine. " On the east," says the
New Statistical Account, "the parish presents to
the waves of the Moray frith, an abrupt and lofty
wall of precipices; and attains in this direction to its
highest elevation of about 470 feet above the level of
the sea, at a distance of little more than 500 yards from
the shore. On the north and west it sweeps gently
towards the frith of Cromarty; but sinks abruptly
over the beach into a steep continuous bank, which
from the shells occasionally dug up at its base, seems
at some early period to have formed the coast-line.
There now intervenes, however, in most places a
lower terrace between it and the shore. Viewed from
the north, the parish presents a bold high outline,
rising towards the east, where it marks the junction
of the Cromarty and Moray friths, like a huge levia-
than out of the sea, and descending towards the
west, into a long rectilinear ridge, of the character
so peculiar to sandstone districts. An irregularly
edged stripe of fir wood covers, for about six miles,
the upper line ; a broad arable belt, mottled with cot-
tages and farm-steadings, occupies the declivity;
while the terrace below, — near the eastern extremity
of which the town is situated, and which, like the
upper belt, is mostly arable, — advances in some
places on the sea in the form of low promontories,
and is scooped out in others to nearly the base of
the escarpment." All the parish, except a few small
patches, is divided between two proprietors, — Ross
of Cromarty and Munro of Udale. The yearly real
rental is about £6.700. Population in 1831, 2,901 ;
in 1861, 2,300. Houses, 458. Assessed property in
1843, £3,846 19s. 9d. ; in 1860, £6,535.
This parish is in the presbytery of Chanonry, and
synod of Ross. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £251
12s. 6d. ; glebe, £15. Unappropriated teinds, £395
18s. 5d. The parish church is described in the
Statistical Account as "a true Presbyterian edifice."
A Gaelic church was built and endowed about the
year 1785, and the minister of it receives £50 a-year
from Government. There is a Free church : atten-
dance, 750; yearly receipts in 1865, £470 10s. 6d.
There are five non-parochial schools. There were in
the parish, prior to the Reformation, no fewer than
six chapels ; but a low broken wall and a few green
mounds are now their only remains.
The town op Cromarty stands 1 0 J miles north-
north-east of Rosemarkie, 11 south-south-east of
Tain, 19A north-north-east of Inverness, and 21
north-east of Dingwall. Its site is a low alluvial
promontory, washed on two sides by the sea. The
hill of Cromarty behind it is celebrated for the ex-
tent and magnificence of the prospect it commands.
All the foreground scenery of land and water is
strikingly beautiful; and a grand feature in the
background is the stupendous Ben-Wyvis. A large.
r.
rocky cavern under the South Sutor, called Macfar-
quhar's Bed, and a cave wbich contains a petrifying
well, are amongst the neighbouring natural curiosi-
ties. Part of the east end of the town has been
slowly eaten away by the encroachments of the sea.
The beach is excellent for sea-bathers; and there is
a beautiful esplanade. The harbour is neat, conve-
nient, and one of the safest in the world, and has
been provided with a fine pier. There is a light-
house on the Point, showing a fixed red light, which
is visible seaward at the distance of 9 miles. The
town is irregularly built, and displays in its older
parts a predominance of the plain Flemish style of
architecture. Its ancient cross is still standing.
Here are one or two timber yards, several cooper-
ages, a defunct brewery originally the most exten-
sive in the north of Scotland, a quondam hempen
cloth manufactory relinquished in 1853, and a depot
for pickled salmon and for country produce collected
for the southward steamers and trading-vessels.
Here also, for half a century past, has been a con-
siderable trade in the curing of pork for the English
market, sometimes to the value of from £15,000 to
£20,000 a-year. The herring-fishery was once the
only staple trade, and even so late as 1824 "was so
successful as to export 20,000 barrels in one season;
but suddenly became almost extinct for a time,
and again has considerably revived. Cromarty,
too, was formerly the entrepot and depot of all the
import and export trade of Ross-shire, but has been
almost entirely deprived of this by Invergordon;
so that many buildings which were formerly main-
tained by it are now deserted and ruinous. Vessels
of 400 tons lie in the harbour in perfect security ;
many vessels currently run to it from the adjacent
parts of the German ocean for shelter from storms ;
and the Leith and Inverness steamers make regular
weekly calls at it for traffic. A weekly market
on Tuesday, and two fairs in the months of April
and August figure regularly in the almanacs ; but
they are entirely nominal. The town has branch
offices of the Commercial Bank and the Caledonian
Bank. Cromarty was formerly a royal burgh, but
was disfranchised by an act of the privy-council of
Scotland, in consequence of a petition by Sir John
Urquhart, proprietor of the estate of Cromarty. It
was re-enfranchised, however, by the Reform Bill ;
and now it unites with Wick, Dingwall, Dornoch,
Kirkwall, and Tain, in returning a member to par-
liament. It is governed by a provost, 2 bailies,
and 7 councillors. Parliamentary and municipal
constituency in 1866, 32. The celebrated Macbeth
makes his first appearance in history as Thane of
Cromarty. Sir William Wallace is traditionally
said to have won a battle against the English on
Cromarty Hill. The Earls of Ross had an ancient
castle on the spot now occupied by Cromarty House.
And in our own day the town and neighbourhood of
Cromarty have been rendered famous by the writ-
ings of Hugh Miller, the ablest geologist of Scot-
land. Population in 1831, 2,215; in 1861, 1,491.
Houses, 298.
CROMARTY FRITH (The), a magnificent es-
tuary in Ross-shire and Cromartyshire. It is the
estuary of the Conan. It commences at Dingwall,
about 7 miles north of the head of the Beauly frith,
and extends about 20 miles north-eastward to a
junction with the Moray frith. It has generally a
breadth of from 1J to 2J miles, but expands for 5
miles to a point about 2 miles above its mouth into
a fine bay of 6 miles in breadth, then contracts to
fully less than its former average breadth, and passes
out to the Moray frith between two bold promonto-
ries, two bluff wooded-hills, called the Sutors of
Cromarty, looking almost like the sides of a stupen-
CROMARTYSHIRE.
322
CROMARTYSHIRE.
dous gateway. Its upper reaches are shallow, very
fluviatile, and often turbid, yet at full tide are navi-
gable to the top by vessels of considerable size ; and
its other reaches, to the extent of 12 or 14 miles,
have for the most part a depth of from 15 to 20 fa-
thoms. The expanded reach above the Sutors, for
several miles, has fine anchoring-ground, with deep
water on both sides almost close to the shore, form-
ing the Portus salulis of Buchanan, and what old
Stowe calls " an exceeding quiet and safe haven."
Almost every part of the frith is strikingly pictur-
esque.
CROMARTYSHIRE, a county in the north, of
Scotland, consisting of a compact or parent-district
in the north end of Ardnameanach or the Black Isle,
and a number of detached districts scattered through
Ross-shire. The best portion of the compact dis-
trict, called the old shire of Cromarty, was in very
early times a sheriffdom, hereditary in the family of
Urquhart of Cromarty. It comprehended, 1st, The
whole paiish of Cromarty; 2d, The parish of Kirk-
michael, with the exception of the farm of Easter
Balblair, and perhaps Kirkmichael — which form a
tract of nearly one mile in length, and half-a-mile in
breadth, situated on the point of land at Invergor-
don ferry, and which is considered as a part of Ross-
shire; And 3d, The farm of Easter St. Martin's, in
the parish of Cullicudden. Thus, the old shire was a
tract, whose greatest length was 10 miles, and aver-
age breadth 1J. The area, therefore, was only 17 J
square miles. To the south of this district, and in
the middle of the peninsula, lies the extensive com-
mon moor, named the Mullbuy, in which the county
of Cromarty has an undoubted share; but, until a
division be made, it is impossible to ascertain any
boundary in it. Beginning on the shore of the Mo-
ray frith, at the bum of Eathie or Craighouse, about
3 miles south of Cromarty, the boundaries of the old
shire follow this burn to its source, and then run
westward, in the same direction, to the Fortrose
road to Invergordon ferry. By this road they run so
as to include the White bog, or Glen Urquhart, till
we arrive at the turn towards Cromarty, and the
burn of Killean or the Black stank, where we meet
the Mullbuy moor, in which the boundary is uncer-
tain. On the north of this moor, we may proceed
from the junction of the Fort-George and Kessock
roads to Invergordon, directly west, between Brea
and Easter St. Martin's, to the bridge across the burn
of Newhall, between East and West St. Martin's,
then northwards, between the farms of Cullicudden
and Resolis , until we arrive at the frith of Cromarty,
about 1 J mile west of the ferry of Alness. We must
again cut off that piece of the ferry point of Inver-
gordon, called Easter Balblair, as being in Ross-
shire. It is nearly triangular, extending on the
north-west shore about half-a-mile, and on the east
about one mile from the point. " How this little
patch came to be excluded from the shire of Cro-
marty," says Sir George Mackenzie in his General
Survey of Ross and Cromarty, " I cannot explain.
It is alluded to in the old valuation-roll of the
county, taken in 1698, in these words; — ' Sir Alex-
ander Gordon, in vice of St. Martins, for all the
lands he bought of St. Martins, except Wester St.
Martins, Kirkmichael, and Easter Balblair, which is
in Ross, £894 0s. 0d.' From this, I am inclined to
think, we should also include the farm of Kirkmi-
chael in Ross, Wester St. Martin and Easter Bal-
blair being confessedly so, and accordingly are so
valued in the cess-books. We would thus bring the
boundary of this part of Ross-shire down to the
mouth of the bum of Newhall. But I believe Kirk-
lnichael is reckoned as part of Cromarty. Had the
word ' its,' in the above entry, been ' are,' we might
have supposed it decisive." The whole of the pre-
sent parent district of Cromartyshire, including its
fair proportion of the Mullbuy, is usually stated to
have a length of about 16 miles, a breadth of about
6J or 7 miles, and an area of 39,690 acres. The face
of it is pleasant. A long ridge of hills extends
through its whole length, having a fine declivity on
either side towards the shores of the friths. The
higher grounds are mostly covered with heath; but
towards the shores the soil is light and early.
The detached districts, scattered through Ross-
shire, contain in all about 344 square miles, or
220,586 acres. George, Viscount Tarbat, afterwards
Earl of Cromarty, who was secretary of state, and
clerk to the parliament of Scotland, in the reign of
James II., William and Maiy, &c, procured an act,
in 1685, annexing several lands to the shire of Cro-
marty. This act being afterwards repealed, another
was procured in 1698, annexing some part of his
lands to the shire of Cromarty. By this extraordi-
nary annexation, the shire of Cromarty has now a
territory fifteen times its former extent; and its
valued rent has been increased threefold. But these
annexations comprise so many detached parts, that
a description of their boundaries would be exceed-
ingly irksome. They consist of a district surround-
ing Tarbat House, on the northern shore of the bay
of Cromarty; a district running from the south side
of Dornoch frith to the Moray frith ; two fragments
of land on the north of the river Carron ; a portion
of land running northward from the town of Ding-
wall and including Castle Leod and part of Ben
Wyvis; small portions of land to the north of Loch
Fannich and to the north of Loch Nid; a district
stretching along the southern shore of Little Loch-
broom; the large district of Coigeach between the
northern shore of Lochbroom and Sutherland; also
the Summer Island in Lochbroom. It has been
found necessary, in all bills relating to roads, bridges,
&c, to include the whole of these annexations in
Ross-shire ; although, from their being thus kept in
the back-ground, very great inconvenience has been
often felt, both by the counties of Ross and of Cro-
marty.
Cromarty is the only town. Most persons in the
county speak Gaelic; but many speak that broad
Scottish which is commonly called the Buchan or
Aberdeenshire dialect. Freestone, granite, and red-
dish-coloured porphyry, are almost the only minerals,
if we except topazes similar to those of Cairngorm,
which are found in the parish of Kincardine. Fish-
eries are very successfully carried on, and pearls of
considerable value are sometimes found at the head
of the frith of Cromarty. The district is compre-
hended in the sheriffdom of Ross-shire ; and a she-
riff-substitute holds courts every alternate Friday at
the town of Cromarty. It now joins with the county
of Ross in returning a member to parliament. Con-
stituency in 1805, 48. Cromarty gave the title of
Earl to a branch of the Mackenzies of Seaforth.
The family came into favour in the reign of James
"VI., and having been raised to a baronetcy, was, in
the reign of James II., elevated to the viscountcy
of Tarbat. Lord Tarbat was created Earl of Cro-
marty in 1702 ; but the title was attainted in the
person of George, the 3d Earl, on account of his
having engaged in the rebellion of 1745. He was
surprised and defeated by the Earl of Sutherland's
militia, near Dunrobin castle, on the day before the
battle of Culloden ; and being sent to London, was
tried, and condemned to be executed, but by great
intercession his life was spared, though his estate
and honours were forfeited. His son entered the
Swedish service. He was commonly known as
Count-Cromarty, and died in 1789. At present tho
CROMBIE.
CROOKSTON CASTLE.
peerage is claimed by Sir James S. Mackenzie of
Tarbat, Bart. Tlieokl valued rent of Cromartyshire
was £12,897 Scots; the new valuation for 1863-4
was £8,178 sterling. Population in 1801, 3,052 ; in
IS 11, 5,481. In all the more recent returns this
shire is included with that of Ross: which see.
CROMBIE, an ancient parish, now annexed to
that of Torryburn, in the south-west extremity of
Fifeshirc. See Torrybubn. The ruins of the church
still remain, on a commanding site overlooking the
frith of Forth. The estate of Crombie and Ochiltree
is the most extensive one in the united parish. There
is also a small village of Crombie, containing about
50 inhabitants.
CROMBIE BURN. See Kixooldrum.
CROMBIE POINT, a small headland, a small
harbour, and a village in the Crombie district of the
parish of Torryburn, lj mile south-east of the vil-
lage of Torryburn, and 6J miles west-north-west of
North Queensferry, Fifeshire. It is a calling-place
of the Granton and Stirling steamers. Population of
the village, 51.
CROMDALE, a parish in the Strathspey districts
of Inverness-shire and Morayshire. It contains the
post town of Grantown. It comprehends the an-
cient parishes of Cromdale, Inverallan, and Advie.
It is bounded by Knockando on the north; by In-
veraveu and Kirkmichael on the east ; by Aberne-
thy on the south; and by Duthil on the west. Its
extent is considerable, being in length 17 miles;
while, in some places, the breadth is 10 miles. It
is intersected through its whole length by the river
Spey. The soil is in general dry and thin, with the
exception of the haughs on the banks of the Spey,
which, in point of fertility, are equal to any in the
neighbourhood. A series of sloping hills, richly
clothed with forest, forms the north side of the par-
ish ; and a range of lofty upland, 7 or 8 miles long,
covered with heath, and called Cromdale hill, forms
a chief part of the south side. About 5,S00 acres in
the palish are subject to the plough, about 5,800 are
under wood, and about 396 are occupied by lakes.
The Earl of Seafield is the sole landowner. Castle-
Grant, one of the seats of his lordship, and the only
mansion in the parish, is a magnificent old building,
situated amid a princely forest, about 2 miles from
the north side of the Spey. The Castle of Mucke-
rach, the earliest possession of the Grants of Rothie-
murchus, is a picturesque ruin in the north-west
part of the parish. At Lochindorb, a thick wall of
mason-work, 20 feet high, surrounds an acre of land
within the lake, with strong watch-towers at every
comer. The entrance is by a magnificent gate of
freestone; and the foundations of houses are to be
distinctly traced within the walls. The low grounds
on the south banks of the Spey have been rendered
famous by a song, — ' The Haughs of Cromdale ' —
composed, in consequence of a skirmish which took
place here, in 1690, betwixt the adherents of King
William, under the command of Sir Thomas Living-
ston, and the supporters of the house of Stuart,
under Major-General Buchan, in which the latter
were defeated. Population of the Inverness-shire
district in 1831, 2,537; in 1851, 3,428. Houses, 647.
Population of the whole parish in 1831, 3,234; in
1861, 3,943. Houses, 701. Assessed property in
1860, £8,220.
This parish, formerly a rectory, with the ancient
vicarage of Inverallan and Advie united, is in the
presbytery of Abernethy and synod of Moray. Pa-
tron, the Earl of Seafield. Stipend, £249 4s. 7d. ;
glebe, £22. Unappropriated teinds, £315 4s. 9d.
There are three parochial schools, and the salaries
of the masters are £20, £16, and £16. There are
ulso two schools in Grantown, supported by the
Earl of Seafield. The parish church stands on thn
south side of the Spey, in a situation inconvenient
to the great majority of the parishioners. It was
built in 1809, and contains 900 sittings. There is a
mission church at Grantown, suitable for the old
parish of Inverallan, and served by a minister who
receives £20 a-year from the Earl of Seafield and
£60 from the Royal Bounty. There is a Free church
of Cromdale, whose attendance in 1851 was 350, and
whose yearly receipts in 1865 amounted to £83 lis.
6d. There is also a small Baptist congregation at
Grantown. See Grantown.
CROMLIX. See Dunblane.
CROMWELL PARK, a manufacturing village,
on the river Almond, in the parish of Redgorton,
Perthshire. Population in 1851, 124. See Redgor-
ton.
CRONA. See Oldxet.
CROOK, a hamlet in the parish of Alves, Moray-
shire.
CROOK, an inn and post-office station on the
northern verge of the parish of Tweedsmuir, Pee-
bles-shire. It stands on the left bank of the Tweed,
and on the road from Edinburgh to Dumfries by
way of Moffat, 12 miles south-south-east of Biggar.
It is a favourite haunt of anglers; the head-streams
of the Tweed affording fine trouting in the neigh-
bourhood.
CROOK OF DEVON, a small village in the
Kinross-shire section of the parish of Fossaway, on
the river Devon, 18 miles east of Stirling, and 6
west of Kinross. It is a burgh-of-barony ; and has
a fair in May, and another in October. The village
takes its name from a sudden turn or crook which
the river Devon takes at this place. It has a station
on the Devon Valley railway.
CROOK'S POW. See Troqueek.
CROOKSTON CASTLE, an interesting relic of
feudal times, crowning the summit of a wooded
slope overhanging the southern bank of the White
Cart, in Renfrewshire; about 3 miles south-east of
Paisley. When Crawford wrote, this building con-
sisted of a large quarter, and two lofty towers, with
battlemented wings. Much of it has since crumbled
into further ruin; but a portion of the walls, about
50 feet in height, yet remains, and was put into a
state of repair in 1847 by John Maxwell. The
moat and rampart also may be still distinctly traced.
The surrounding scenery is pleasingly broken in its
outline, and the view from it is very commanding.
John Wilson, the author of the poem ' Clyde,' has
these lines: —
" Here, raised upon a verdant mount sublime.
To Heaven complaining of the wrongs of time.
And ruthless force of sacrilegious hands,
Crookston, an ancient seat, in ruins stands;
Nor Clyde's whole course an ampler prospect yields,
Of spacious plains, and well-improven fields;
Which, here, the gently-swelling hills surround,
And, there, the cloud-supporting mountains bound ;
Now fields with stately dwellings thronger charged,
And populous cities, by their trade enlarged."
An anonymous poet has much more beautifully apos-
trophized Crookston castle in the following lines: —
Thou proud memorial of a former age,
Time-ruined Crookston ; not in all our land
Romantic with a noble heritage
Of feudal halls, in ruin sternly grand,
More beautiful doth lower or castle stand
Than thou ! as oft the lingering traveller tells.
And none more varied sympathies command ;
Though where the warrior dwelt, the raven dwells.
With tenderness thy tale the rudest bosom swells.
Along the soul that pleasing sadness steals
Which trembles from a wild harp's dying fall.
When Fancy's recreative eye reveals
To him, lone-musing by thy mouldering wall,
What warriors thronged, what joy rung through thy ball,
CROOKSTON CASTLE.
324
CROSBY.
When royal Mary — yet unstained by crime,
And with love's golden sceptre ruling: all —
Made thee her bridal home. There seems to shine
Still o'er thee splendour shed at that high gorgeous time !
How dark a moral shades and chills the heart
When gazing on thy dreary deep decay 1
Robert Croc, a gentleman of Norman extraction,
held the barony of Crookston in the 12th century,
and in 1180 founded here an hospital for infirm
men, and a chapel. In the 13th century, this barony
was carried by a female heiress into the illustrious
family of Stewart, whose regality now comprehended
Crookston, Darnley, Neilston, Inchinnan, and Tar-
bolton. In 1565, Henry, Lord Darnley, eldest son
of Matthew, Earl of Lennox, became the husband of
Mary, Queen of Scots ; and some traditions say that
it was at Crookston that ill-fated betrothment was
arranged. " Another traditionary report," says Mr.
Eamsay, in his interesting Descriptive Notices of
Renfrewshire, "represents Crookston as the place
from which Mary beheld the rout of her last army
at Langside. This report, and a kindred supersti-
tion which still lingers among the peasantry, have
been finely embodied in the following lines by Wil-
son:—
' But dark Langside, from Crookston viewed afar,
Still seems to range in pomp the rebel war.
Here, when the moon rides dimly through the sky,
The peasant sees broad dancing standards fly;
And one bright female form, with sword and crown,
Still grieves to view her banners beaten down.'
The same report having been adopted by Sir "Walter
Scott, not only in a historical romance, [' The Ab-
bot,] but even in the sober pages of history itself,
[History of Scotland, Vol. II. p. 131.] it has at-
tained a currency almost universal. Now Crookston
castle lies 4 miles west from the field of battle, and
the swelling grounds which intervene prevent the
one place from being seen from the other. Apart
from this consideration altogether, it is quite incre-
dible that the Queen could be at Crookston castle
on the occasion in question. It will be recollected,
that she had just escaped from Loch Leven, and fled
to Hamilton, from whence she was proceeding, under
the protection of an army, towards the castle of
Dumbarton as a temporary place of safety, when
her troops were confronted and utterly defeated by
the Regent Murray, at Langside, which is about 2
miles south of Glasgow, and nearly parallel with that
city. The belief that the Queen was at Crookston
during the battle necessarily infers the supposition
that she had needlessly endangered her personal
«afety, by proceeding 4 miles in advance of the troops,
which were expressly called together for her protec-
tion. As has been mentioned in a previous notice,
it was from an eminence in the neighbourhood of
Cathcart castle, and rather in the rear of her army,
that Mary beheld the decisive struggle ; and as on
its termination she fled to the south, it is evident that
on that disastrous day she could not be any nearer to
the castle of Crookston. Sir Walter Scott having
been informed of the error into which he had been
led, he at once admitted it in a note to the revised
edition of 'The Abbot;' expressing, at the same
time, his unwillingness to make the fiction give way
to the fact, in this particular instance, from a per-
suasion that the representing Mary as beholding the
battle from Crookston tended greatly to increase the
interest of the scene in the romance.* Unfortunately,
* The Abbot, edition 1831, Vol. II. p. 339. The reader who
Is unacquainted with the locality will be embarrassed by Sir
Walter's having inadvertently said, in the note here relerred
to, (p. 340,) that he had " taken a liberty in removing the actual
field of battle somewhat to the eastward," whereas the removal
made by hiin was to the westward.— Note by Mr. Ramsay.
the error has hitherto been allowed to pass uncor-
rected in his popular History of Scotland. On the
whole, having searched in vain for any contemporary
authority on the subject, we are constrained to rest
satisfied with the only probable form of the tradition,
that, namely, which bears in general terms, that the
Queen and Darnley passed some days at the castle of
Crookston soon after their nuptials. This has been
incidentally stated by Sir Walter Seott in his histo-
rical work ; and akin to it is the statement which he
represents the good Lady Fleming as making in the
romance, that here the Queen held her first court
after the marriage. — On a small mount, close to the
east side of the castle, there stood a stately yew,
called, ' The Crookston Tree,' the situation of
which was such that it for ages formed a conspicuous
object for many miles round. Under the ill-omened
branches of this funereal tree, Mary and Darnley
were accustomed to sit during the brief period of
sunshine which they enjoyed. In 1710, Crawford
spoke of it as ' a noble monument,' of a large trunk,
and 'well spread in its branches;' and so it con-
tinued to be within the recollection of some persons
yet living. In 1782, the trunk, to the height of 7
feet from the ground, measured 10 feet in circum-
ference. Shortly before that time, the tree was un-
fortunately pruned, by way of experiment, in conse-
quence of which the growth upon the top was re-
tarded, and the tree itself gradually withered and
died. Blasted and leafless, it formed a dismal, and
therefore not unmeet, memorial of the unhappy pair
with whose melancholy story it was connected. Its
extinction was accelerated by relic-collectors, who,
'undisturbed by conscientious qualms,' cut down
and carried away large portions. At length, the
worthy proprietor, Sir John Maxwell, in order that
he might secure his right to what was left, found it
necessary to root out the stump, and take it into his
own immediate possession. This he did in the year
1817. The greater part of the wood having remained
sound, fragments of this celebrated tree are to be
found dispersed over the country, some as female
ornaments, and others in less appropriate forms, such
as snuff-boxes and drinking-cups. Connected with
the old tree there is a popular error, which some
writers of good repute have followed. In the reign
of Mary, there was struck a silver coinage of three
sizes, bearing on the reverse the figure of a tree,
crowned, with the motto, ' Dat Gloria Vires.' It
is generally believed that this tree represents the
Crookston yew, and that it was put upon the coin
in order to commemorate the meeting of Mary and
Darnley under its branches : accordingly, the coin of
the largest size goes under the name of ' The Crook-
ston dollar.' Now, to show the groundlessness of
this story, it is only necessary to refer to the order
of the Privy council for the formation of the coin-
age in question, dated 22d December, 1565. By that
order, it is expressly enjoined, that the coinage shall
bear 'on the ane side, ane palm-tree, crownit;'
and, in conformity to this, the tree upon the coin is
found to resemble a palm and not a yew." — After
the death of Darnley, his estates underwent many
vicissitudes of proprietorship, till at length they
passed to the Duke of Montrose. See Lennox. In
1757, the castle and lands of Crookston were bought
from William, 2d Duke of Montrose, by Sir John
Maxwell of Nether-Pollock, in whose family they
have since continued.
CROSBY, an ancient chapelry in the parish of
Monkton and Prestwick, Ayrshire. There are
remains of a place of worship here ; the burial-
place surrounding which is still used by the inhabi-
tants of Troon. Its situation is very retired and
beautiful. See Monkton and Piiestwick.
CROSS.
325
CROSSMYLOOF.
CROSS-. See Cors-.
CROSS, a district with a government church in
Lewis. See Baryas.
CROSS and BURNESS, an united parish in the
island of Sanda, Orkney. Cross comprises the south-
western limb of the island, and Burness the north-
western limb. See the articles Saxda and Burn-ess.
Fopulation of Cross, inclusive of Burness, in 1851,
1,526; in 1861, 1,555. Houses, 284.— This united
parish — with which North Ronaldsay was alsouniteil
until 1S31 — is in the presbytery of North Isles, and
synod of Orkney. Patron, the Earl of Zetland.
Stipend, £210; glebe, £19. Unappropriated teinds,
£27 0s. 4d. Worship is performed alternately at
(h-oss and at Burness. Schoolmaster's salary, £45,
■with £10 fees.
CROSS-ARTHURLEE. See Arthl-rlee.
CROSSBASKET. See Kilbrtde (East).
CROSSCHAIN HILL. See Fala and Soutra.
CROSSFIELD HILL. See Unst.
CROSSFORD, a village in the parish of Dun-
fermline, Fifeshire. It stands 1J mile west of the
town of Dunfermline, on the road thence to Alloa.
It contains a brewery, and is inhabited chiefly by
table-linen weavers. Population, 379.
CROSSFORD, a village with a post-office in the
north-east corner of the parish of Lesmahagow,
Lanarkshire. It is inhabited chiefly by weavers,
miners, and small proprietors. Here is an United
Presbvterian church. The population in 1861 was
530.
CROSSGATES, a post-office village, partly in the
parish of Dalgety but chiefly in that of Dunfermline,
Fifeshire. It stands at the intersection of the road
from Edinburgh to Perth with the road from Dun-
fermline to Kirkcaldy, 3£ miles east-north-east of
Dunfermline, 5 north of North Queensferry, aud 10
south-south-east of Kinross. It has a station on the
Thornton and Dunfermline branch of the North
British railway. A United Presbyterian church,
containing 531 sittings, was built here in 1802.
Population in 1861 of the entire village, 1,115; of
the Dunfermline section, 82S.
CROSSGATES, a hamlet in the parish of Cults,
Fifeshire.
CROSSHILL, a large village, with a post-office,
in the parish of Kirkmichael, Ayrshire. It stands
on Girvan Water, and on the south road from May-
bole to Straiton, 3 miles south-west of Maybole.
Its principal part is a long regular street of one-
story houses, commencing at the Girvan, running,
over most of its length, at right angles with the
stream, and then debouching to the north. This
street is winged at a little distance with shorter lines
of buildings. About four-fifths of the inhabitants
are either Irish or of Irish extraction ; and a large
proportion are handloom weavers. A quoad sacra
parish church here was built in 1838, and is in the
patronage of Sir James Ferguson, Bart. A Free
church also is here; and its contributions in 1865
were £77 12s. llfd. Here likewise are two schools,
a savings' bank, and a friendly society. The appear-
ance of the village is neat and pleasant far above
that of most places of its kind. Population in 1861,
1,107.
CROSSHILL, a district in the north-west of the
parish of Old Monkland, Lanarkshire. It is bounded
on the south by the road from Glasgow to Shotts, on
the west by the Barony parish of Glasgow, on the
north by the parish of Cadder, and on the east by
lines of road from Lusshill to Bishop Loch. It in-
cludes the villages of Crosshill, Bailieston, Barach-
nie, Craigend, West Merrystone, and Swinton. A
chapel of ease, at the first of these villages, was the
earliest of the Extension churches, and was built to
contain about 600 sittings without galleries. Popu-
lation of the district in 1851, 2,591.
CROSSHILL, a small village in the parish of
Cathcart, Renfrewshire.
CROSSHILL, a hamlet, contiguous to the villago
of Aldhouse, near the centre of the parish of East
Kilbride, Lanarkshire.
CROSSHOUSE, a village in the parish of Kil-
maurs, Ayrshire. Population, 468.
CROSS-ISLE, one of the Shetland isles, lying at
the entrance of Quendal bay, and constituting part
of the parish of Dunrossness.
CEOSSLEE, a post-office hamlet on the southern
verge of the Gala-Water district of Edinburghshire,
4 miles south of Stow.
CEOSSLEE, a village in the parish of Houston
and Killallan, Renfrewshire. It stands on a small
tributary of the Gryfe, 3 J miles south-west of
Erskine feny, and 7 miles north-west of Paisley.
Here is a cotton mill which was built in 1793, and
employs about 300 hands. Population, 383.
CROSSMICHAEL. a parish, containing the post-
office village of Crossmichael, and also the village of
Clarebrand, near the centre of Kirkcudbrightshire.
It is of a rectangular form, extending in length
about 5, and in breadth about 4 miles. Its super-
ficial area is 7,696 acres. It is bounded on the east
by the Urr, which divides it from the parishes of
Kirkpatrick-Duiham and Urr ; and on the west by
the Dee, which divides it from Balmagie ; on the
north-west it has Parton parish ; and on the south-
east Buittle and Kelton. From the two rivers, the
ground rises into a fertile ridge, beautifully diversi-
fied with gentle eminences. Towards the northern
border there is a small part covered with heath.
Along the rivers are extensive meadows. There are
three lakes in the parish, called Emcrags, Roan, and
Smaddy, abounding with pike and perch. The pa-
rish is traversed by the Castle-Douglas and Port-
patrick railway, and has a station on it. The number
of heritors is no fewer than twenty-eight. There
are several Pictish monuments of antiquity, and the
remains of ancient fortifications. Near the kirk of
Crossmichael, at a place called Crofts, is a very
beautiful oval camp, occupying the summit of a hill,
and commanding the river immediately below. The
parish impinges at its south end on the environs of
Castle-Douglas, and is traversed by the road thence
to New Galloway. The village of Crossmichael
stands on that road 4 miles north-west of Castle-
Douglas. It is a pleasing little place. Here stood,
in ancient times, a cross dedicated to St. Michael,
around which the peasantry of the neighbourhood
were wont to assemble at Michaelmas to a fair
The cross has disappeared, but the fair is still held.
Population of the village in 1861, 326. Population
of the parish in 1S31, 1,325 ; in 1S61, 1,536. Houses,
279. Assessed property in 1860, £10,725.
This parish, formerly a prebend of Sweetheart
abbey, is in the presbytery of Kirkcudbright, and
synod of Gallowav. Patroness, Mrs. Gauld. Sti-
pend, £269 15s. lOd. ; glebe, £24. There are two
parochial schools. Salary of the first master now
is £45, with about £18 fees; of the second, £30,
with £11 lis. 3d. from a fund mortified in 1735, bv
William Gordon, merchant in Bristol, in consequence
of which he is not entitled to school-fees. The
parish church was built in 1751, and enlarged in
1822, and contains about 650 sittings. There is an
United Presbyterian church on the southern border
of the parish adjacent to Castle-Douglas. There are
two private schools.
CROSSMILL. See Corsemill.
CROSSMYLOOF, a village in the north-west
corner of the parish of Cathcart, Renfrewshire. It
CROSSRAGUEL.
CROSSRAGUEL.
stands about 1A mile south-west of Glasgow, on the
road thence to Pollockshaws. It is inhabited chiefly
by handloom weavers. Population, 939.
CROSSRAGUEL, a celebrated Cluniac abbey,
now in ruins, in the parish of Kirkoswald in Ayr-
shire, 2 miles south- west of Maybole. It is situ-
ated on a broad ridge of ground which rises con-
siderably above sea-level, but on a part of the ridge
which sinks somewhat under the level of the imme-
diate environs, and amidst marshy ground. The
walls have greatly crumbled down, and it has long
been unroofed, but it still presents an imposing
front to the passer-by on the highway towards the
east, and is one of the most entire ecclesiastical
edifices of the period. This abbey was founded by
Duncan, Earl of Carrick, about the year 1240. The
last abbot was the celebrated Quentin Kennedy, who
died in 1564. Grose has given three views of the
ruins, and a minute description of them as they
existed in 1796, — supplied by a gentleman resident in
the neighbourhood, — of which the following is an ex-
tract :— " Entering the precincts from the north, where
the principal gate stood, you have in front what I
shall call the cathedral of the abbey, which stands
due east and west; the walls are almost entire,
about 164 feet long, and 22 feet high ; the architec-
ture in the same Gothic taste which is common in
structures of the same period ; the stones in general
not very large. There is but one door in all this
north side and front of the cathedral, which is near
the west end of it, considerably ornamented, of a
conic shape, 9 feet high, and at the bottom 5 feet
broad. The ground along the whole of the building
for about twenty paces from the wall, is enclosed
with a bad stone dyke, and set apart for a burying-
place ; but is now seldom used. — Leaving the above-
mentioned door, you turn to the west end of the
cathedral, and go about thirty paces south-west,
which brings you to what is called the Abbot's new
house. It is an oblong tower about 30 feet high ;
below it there is a large arch, through which you pass
before you get to the door of the house, which is
immediately on the south-east side of the arch ; this
door leads you up a winding narrow stair built to
the tower, and consisting of three flights of steps ;
the first flight brings you to a room 13 feet by 11,
lighted by two windows, 3 feet high, and 2J feet
broad, the one looking to the south, the other to
the north. The second flight brings you to another
room of exactly the same dimensions and lighted in
the same manner. The third brings you to the top
of the towei', which is surrounded by a parapet wall.
On the top of the staircase is a small building, higher
than the tower, which is said to have been a bell-
house. — From the west side of this tower, and at
right angles with it, there has been a row of build-
ings, which are now a heap of ruins. At the south
end a dovecot of a very singular construction is still
extant ; the shaft of it is circular, and surrounds a
well of excellent water; above 5 feet from the
ground it begins to swell, and continues for 6 or
V feet, then contracts as it rises, till it comes to a
point at the top ; in shape therefore it resembles a
pear, hanging from the tree, or rather an egg stand-
ing on the thickest end. You enter it by a small
door on the north, about 5 feet from the ground ;
the floor is of stone, and serves also as a covering to
the well beneath ; the sides within are full of square
holes for pigeons ; it is lighted from the top by a
small circular opening, and is still perfectly entire,
16 feet perpendicular, and where widest 8 feet in
diameter. — Returning to the door of the Abbot's
house, you go about ten paces due east, along the
inside of a high wall, which joins to the other
buildings of the abbey ; here has been a gate, now
in ruins ; entering by the place where the gate stood,
you find yourself on the south-west corner of a court
52 feet square. Round this court there has been a
covered way ; vestiges of the arches by which the
covering was supported are still visible : in the midst
of the court was a well which is now filled up with
rubbish. Walking along the west side of the court,
you find nothing but a strong wall, till you come to
the north-west corner, where is a small arched door,
the sides of which are much broken down ; this door
leads into a kind of gallery, 18 feet broad, and 72
feet long ; lighted only by three narrow slips to the
west. — Turning from this door, you walk 72 feet
along the south wall of the cathedral, which forms
the north side of the court ; in this you find three
doors, one almost at the north-west comer of the
court, and two near the north-east. These doors
are nearly of the same dimensions, 9 feet high, 5
feet broad at the bottom, and semicircular at the
top. The door at the north-west corner of the
court is almost opposite the door in the front or
north wall of the cathedral, which we have already
mentioned, and leads into the choir. This forms
the west part of the cathedral, is of an oblong figure,
88 feet long, and 25 feet broad within the walls,
lighted by five windows, with pointed arches, 10
feet high, and 3 feet broad at the bottom ; there is
but one small window to the south, at the head of
the wall, which has received the light over the
covering of the court ; on the north wall and near
the north-east corner of the choir, is a niche in the
wall, semicircular at the top, 8 feet broad, and 4
feet high, where it is probable the image of the
patron-saint formerly stood. — The partition which
divides the choir from the church, or east part of the
cathedral, is pretty entire, and has been furnished
with a pair of bells. Precisely in the middle of the
partition is a door, with a pointed arch, 9 feet high,
and 5 feet broad at the bottom, which leads into the
church ; this still retains something of its ancient
magnificence, is of the same breadth with the choir,
but only 76 feet long ; the east end of it is semi-
circular or rather triagonal, adorned with three large
windows, with pointed arches, 11 feet high and 7
feet broad at the bottom. There are six other win-
dows to the north, and one to the south, of the same
shape and height, but only six feet broad. Imme-
diately below the south window, and near the south-
east corner of the church, stands the altar, which
has been greatly ornamented, but is now defaced ;
no vestiges of any inscription remain here, or in any
part of the abbey. The altar is 7 feet broad, and 4
feet high, square, but fretted at the top a little to
the left from it. Below the most southerly of the
largest windows, there is a niche in the wall 4 feet
high and 2 broad, concave at the top, but almost
without ornament. In the bottom are two hollows
made in the stone, like the bottom of a plate ; this
is supposed to have been a private altar, perhaps that
of the family of Cassilis. A little to the right of the
principal altar is a small door leading to a ruinous
stair which we shall have occasion to mention im-
mediately. Still farther to the right of the altar,
on the same wall, is a larger door, 7 feet high and 6
broad, with a pointed arch, which leads into a high
arched room, with a pillar in the middle, and a stone
bench round the sides, 20 feet long and 15 broad,
said to be the place where the consistorial court was
held. It is lighted only by one window from the
east ; on the left hand as you enter the room from
the church, there is a door which opens on the ruin-
ous stair already mentioned. This stair has led into
a room immediately above the consistory, precisely
of the same length and breadth, but now level with
the floor. From this room you descend a few steps
CROSSROADS.
327
CRUDEN.
into the Abbot's hall, which is 20 feet square, lighted
by two small windows to the cast, and one to the
west looking in the court. — Returning from the
Abbot's hall into the church, by the same door, we
find the door in the south-west corner of the church,
the dimensions of which have been already given.
Going out at this door we find ourselves in the
north-east corner of the court; walking five paces
from this we come to a door, semicircular at the
top, S feet high and 5 broad, which opens into a
room arched in the roof immediately below the
Abbot's hall, of the same breadth and length, and
lighted from the east by two small windows. Pro-
ceeding from this room to the south-east corner of
the court, you find a ruinous arch, about 24 feet
long, 10 feet high, and 9 broad, with a stone bench
on both sides ; this seems to have led to a number
of cells, which are now a heap of ruins. Turning
from this arch you walk along the south side of the
court, where there is nothing observable but several
small doors, leading into ruinous cells ; what number
of these there may altogether have been, it is now
impossible to determine, as the greatest part of them
are buried under the rubbish of their own walls.
The Abbot's old house, as it is called, is the only
building of the abbey we have not hitherto men-
tioned. This stands immediately to the south-east
of the ruinous cells above described. It has been
an oblong tower; but the east side, in which the
stair has been built, is now fallen down, which pre-
vents its dimensions from being accurately taken ;
they seem, however, to hare been nearly the same
with the dimensions of the Abbot's new house."
CEOSSEOADS, a hamlet in the east of the parish
of Slamannan, Stirlingshire.
CROSSTON, a hamlet in the parish of Aberlem-
no, Forfarshire. It takes its name from a monu-
mental stone, sculptured with a cross, still standing
in its vicinity.
CEOSS-STEEET, a village in the near vicinity
of the town of Stomoway, Lewis.
CEOSS WATEE. See Luce (Tee).
CEOULIN ISLES, a group of little islands, in
the parish of Applecross, Boss-shire. It lies off the
north side of the entrance of Loch Carron. The
largest, called Croulinmore, is about a mile in length.
Population in 1841, 40; in 1851, 40. Houses, 8.
CEOVIE, a fishing village, upwards of a mile east
of Gardenstown, in the parish of Gamrie, Banffshire.
It is supposed to have been built in the early part
of the 18th century. Population, 164.
CEOY, a parish in the counties of Nairn and
Inverness. It contains a post-office station of its
own name, subordinate to Ardersier. The present
parish comprehends the old parishes of Croy and
Dalcross, which were united in the latter part of the
15th century. Its extreme length is about 21 miles;
but it is so intersected by the parishes of Petty,
Daviot, and Inverness, that its breadth cannot be
exactly ascertained, yet reaches in some points to
9 miles. The river Nairn runs through the parish
for 8 miles, and its strath, with the seats of Kil-
ravock, Holme, and Cantray, forms a scene of true
rural amenity and beauty. The remainder includ-
ing Culloden moor, [see Cullodex,1 is indifferently
cultivated, and has a bleak and naked appearance.
Great improvements, however, have been made on
the estates of Cantray, Kilravock, Holme, Cullo-
den, Leys, and Inches by reclaiming and planting.
There is a lake in the Nairnshire district called the
Loch of the Clans. Leys Castle is a modern princely
mansion, on a commanding site. Dalcross Castle
was built in 1621 by Lord Lovat, and commands
one of the grandest views of the kingdom, extend-
ing from Mealfourvounie to the Ord of Caithness,
but has been allowed to fall into decay. A wild
dismal tract called Clava, about 4 miles south of
the parish church, contains a great number of cairns
and Druidical circles; and a round gravel mound,
on the north-west border of the parish, A a mile east
of Leys Castle, and within 2 J miles of the town of
Inverness, is crowned by one of the most perfect
Druidical temples in the kingdom, consisting of two
concentric circles of large stones set on edge, two
large slabs in the interior, and an immense travelled
upright mass of conglomerate a few feet west of the
outer circle. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,664;
in 1861, 1,873. Houses, 305. Assessed property
in 1860, £8,720.
This parish, formerly a rectory with the vicarage
of Dalcross annexed, is in the presbytery of Nairn,
and synod of Moray. Stipend, £239 3s. lOd. ; glebe,
£11. " Unappropriated teinds, £240 4s. lOd. Pa-
trons, the Earl of Cawdor, and Bose of Kilravock.
Schoolmaster's salary now is £45. The parish
church was built in 1767, and repaired in 1829, and
contains 527 sittings. There is a Free church sta-
tion, whose yearly receipts in 1865 amounted to
£90 17s. 4d. There were three chapels in the par-
ish prior to the Reformation ; and one of these is
supposed to have been built, or to have succeeded
one which was built, at the dawning of Christianity
on the north of Scotland.
CROY, a station on the Edinburgh and Glasgow
railway, and a small village, on the west border of
the parish of Cumbernauld, 4 miles west-south-west
of Castle-Cary, Dumbartonshire.
CROY, an estate in. Stirlingshire. See Kili.earn.
CRUACH, a mountain, rising to the elevation of
2,790 feet above sea-level, on the western margin of
the parish of Fortingal, Perthshire.
CRUACHAN. See Ben-Cruachan.
CEUACH-LUSSA, or Cruach Lusach, that is,
' the Mountain of plants,' a mountain in the parish
of North Knapdale, Argyleshire. It stretches over
a great extent of country, being about 8 miles broad
at the base. It has an elevation of 2,004 feet above
the level of the sea. From its summit, in a clear
day, a fine view may be obtained of Islay, Jura, and
other islands of the Hebrides, and of the island of
Bathlin off the Irish coast.
CEUCKIE HEIGHT, a hill in the parish of Par-
ton, Kirkcudbrightshire, commanding a rich view of
the valleys of the Ken and the Dee.
CRUDEN, a parish, containing a post-office sta-
tion of its own name, and the villages of Finnyfold,
Buller's-Buchan, and Ward, in the district of Buchan,
Aberdeenshire. It is bounded by Longside and
Peterhead parishes on the north; by the North sea
on the east; by Slanes and Logie-Buchan on the
south; and by Ellon on the west. It extends about
8 or 9 miles along the coast, and about 7 or 8 miles
inland. A vast quantity of peat-moss stretches along
the northern boundary. A stream called Cruden
Water, comes in from Ellon, runs right through the
interior to the sea, dividing the parish into two
nearly equal parts, and has altogether from source
to embouchure, a run of about 8 miles. A series of
stupendous precipices, rocks, and crevices fronts all
the northern half of the coast, comprises the far-
famed Bullers of Buchan, and is much admired for
the awful grandeur of its scenery in storms. See
Bulleks of Buchan. A place at the southern ex-
tremity of that series, adjacent to the village of
Ward, admits of vessels unloading coal and lime,
and might be formed into a tolerable harbour. The
bay of Cruden, with a fine sandy beach, extends
thence about 2 miles; and a range of sunken rocks,
running far into the sea, and called the Scares of
Cruden, flanks the southern extremity of the coast,.
CUCHULLIN.
328
CULFREICH.
Great georgical improvements have been made on
the interior by draining. The Earl of Errol is the
most extensive landowner ; and there are ten others.
The real rental is about £11,280. Slanes Castle,
the seat of the Earl of Errol, stands on the southern
part of the bold coast-line. " We came in the after-
noon to Slanes castle," says Dr. Johnson, " built
upon the margin of the sea, so that the walls of one
of the towers seem only a continuation of a perpen-
dicular rock, the foot of which is beaten by the
waves. To walk round the house seemed imprac-
ticable. From the windows, the eye wanders over
the sea that separates Scotland from Norway; and
when the winds beat with violence, must enjoy all
the terrific grandeur of the tempestuous ocean. I
would not, for my amusement, wish for a storm;
but, as storms, whether wished or not, will some-
times happen, I may say, without violation of hu-
manity, that I should willingly look out upon them
from Slanes castle." About a mile west of the
church are the remains of a druidical temple. — In
this parish was fought, in the beginning of the 11th
century, a battle between Malcolm II. and Canute,
son of Sueno, afterwards king of England and Den-
mark. The site of the field of battle, about a mile
west of Slanes castle, has been ascertained by the
discovery of human bones left exposed by the shift-
ing or blowing of the sand. From the circumstance
of a chapel having been erected in this neighbour-
hood dedicated to St. Olaus — the site of which has
become invisible, by being covered with sand — the
assertion of some writers that a treaty was entered
into with the Danes — who were then Christians —
by which it was stipulated, that the field of battle
should be consecrated by a bishop as a burying-
place for the Danes who had fallen in battle, and
that a church should be then built and priests ap-
pointed in all time coming to say masses for the
souls of the slain, seems very probable. Another
stipulation it is said was made, by which the Daues
agreed to evacuate the Burghhead of Moray, and
finally to leave every part of the kingdom, which
they accordingly did in the year 1014. A carding
and spinning mill was erected about the }rear 1838
on the estate of Aquaharney. Fairs are held at
Cruden on the Tuesday after the 11th of April and
the Tuesday after the 4th of June. The parish is
traversed by the road from Aberdeen to Peterhead.
Population 'in 1831, 2,120; in 1861, 2,743. Houses,
527. Assessed property in 1860, £11,350.
This parish, formerly a rectory belonging to the
chapter of Aberdeen, is in the presbytery of Ellon,
and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Earl of Errol.
Stipend, £204 7s. 9d. Unappropriated teinds, £651
16s. lOd. Schoolmaster's salary, £40, with £18 fees.
The parish church was built in 1776, and enlarged
about 1838, and is very commodious. There is a
Free church ; and the sum raised by it in 1865 was
£232 7s. 5d. There likewise stands on a rising-
ground a neat Episcopalian chapel, in the early
English style of architecture, with a spire nearly
90 feet high. Sittings, 472. There is a second pa-
rochial school, with salary of £40.
CRUGLETON. See Soebie.
CEUIK (The). See Feap.n.
CRUIVIE. See Logie, Fifeshire.
CRYSTON. See Chkyston.
CUCHULLIN HILLS. A group of grandly pic-
turesque mountains in the south of Skye. From the
valley of Strath to a line drawn between Lochs
Brittle and Sligachan, occurs the most conspicuous
part of Skye, a confused assemblage of mountains
from 2,000 to 3,000 feet high, and distinguishable, by
striking differences in outline, feature, and colouring,
into two great portions. The southern and greatly
larger portion is a segregation of tame, smooth,
conoidal hills, all separate from one another, nearly
all streaked with broad sheets of red rubbish, com-
ing down from their summit to their base, and many
of them rising abruptly, and without a single fea-
ture of relief, from the labyrinth of intervening low
ground. The northern portion contrasts strongly,
and in almost every particular, with this dismal
sea of red, rounded, characterless hills. It has a
leaden and murky darkness of colour, which no light
appears capable of harmonizing, and which seems,
even amid the blaze of a summer's sun, to cover all
the region with night, so that when clouds wreathe
the summits, a deep and horrible abyss appears
opened beneath into which the eye vainly endeavours
to penetrate; and it consists of peculiarly rugged
and serrated ranges and masses of mountain, whose
pinnacles and projecting crags darkly indent the sky
along the whole line of both summit and profile.
The Cuchullin hills form the chief part of this dark
group, rise with a rapid and rocky ascent from the
shores of the Soa-sound and Loch-Brittle, comprise
six obscurely divided summits, extend curvingly
toward the north-east, and present an almost con-
tinued precipitous face deeply furrowed by torrents.
Some lower but equally rocky heights, of similar
composition and character, unite with them to en-
close the wildly romantic lake of C'orkisejn : which
see.
CUCKOLD LE ROI. See Linlithgow.
CUDDIES (Creek or). See Cullicudden.
CUFFABOUTS, a hamlet in the parish of Cani-
den, Linlithgowshire. The name is supposed to be
a corruption of Cause wayfoot. Population in 1851 ,
16.
CUIL (Bay of), a small expansion of Loch Linn-
he, indenting the coast of Appin, about 5 miles
north-east of the Sound of Shuna. Argyleshire. It
has a semicircular outline, on a chord of about a
mile; and is girt with a fine sandy beach. Large
shoals of herrings often frequent it.
CUL-, a prefix in a few Scottish descriptive topo-
graphical names, signifying the recess or back-part,
as Culross, ' the recess of the peninsula,1 Culter,
' the back part of the country.'
CULAG, a rivulet in Assynt, Sutherland, which
rises in a series of small lochs to the north-west of
Canisp, and runs into the sea at Loch-Inver, about
li mile south-west of the village of Inver, where
there is an excellent fishing-station, and a small vil-
lage of the same name.
CULBIN. See Dyke and Moy.
CULBIRNIE. See Banff.
CULBLEAN. See Glenmuick.
CULBOCKIE, a post-office village in the parish
of Urquhart and Logie- Wester, Ross-shire. Fairs
are held here on the third Wednesday of April, the
last Wednesday of July, the last Wednesday of Oc-
tober, and the second Wednesday of December.
Population, 107.
CULCABOCK, a village in the parish of Inver-
ness, about a mile south-east of the town of Inver-
ness. It is inhabited chiefly by labourers and ma-
sons. Population, 279.
CULCRUICH. See Fintry.
CULDEES, an estate in the parish of Muthill,
about 4 miles from Crieff, Perthshire. It is inter-
sected by the Machany burn, and comprises about
1,629 acres, of which 1,232 are arable and 394 under
wood. The mansion or castle stands on a com-
manding site, in the centre of a policy of about 170
acres.
CULFARGIE. See Fakg (The).
CULFREICH (Loch), a lake in the north-west of
the parish of Assynt, Sutherlandshire.
CULLEN.
329
CULLEN.
CULHORN. See Stranraer.
OULLALO. See Auchtertool.
CULLKAN. See Colzean.
CULLEN (The), a rivulet of Banffshire. It rises
among the hills at the southern extremity of the
parish of Deskford, and runs about 8 miles through
that parish and the parish of Cullen, chiefly in a
northerly direction, to the Moray frith at Cullen hay.
It is a rapid stream, drives the machinery of several
works, has pure clear water well suited for bleach-
ing, and forms a series of fine features, in a deep
channel of 20 feet in breadth through the noble
grounds of Cullen House.
CULLEN, a parish, containing a post town of the
same name, on the coast of Banffshire. It lies be-
tween the districts of the Boyne and the Enzie, and
consists of Cullen-Proper, with an annexation, quoad
sacra, from the parish of Rathven. It is bounded
on the north — about a mile in extent — by Cullen
bay; on the east by Fordyce; on the south by Desk-
ford ; and on the west by Rathven. From the sea,
southwards, Cullen-Proper, separated from Rathven
by Cullen Water, extends, inland, about 2 miles ;
and from east to west, 1 mile. The annexation from
Rathven extends about 3 miles in length and 2 in
breadth ; and the whole parish is in the form of a
quadrant, having straight lines on the north and
east, and a segment of a circle on the west and
south. The surface commences in a breastwork of
bold, grand rocks at the coast, — rises gently thence
athwart the ancient barony of Ogilvie, whose mo-
dem name of Seafield gives the title of Earl to the
noble proprietor of the whole parish, and of many
lands besides, — swells aloft near the centre into the
fine high conical hill of the Bin of Cullen, to an ele-
vation of 1,076 feet above the level of the sea, — and
rolls or undulates everywhere else into a series of
finely featured landscapes, richly adorned with en-
closures, woods, and farm-culture. Some spots in
Seafield command magnificent prospects ; and the
Bin serves as a far-seen strong-featured landmark
to mariners. The soil near the shore, is sand with
gravel; elsewhere, a few fields are strong clay;
others, light loam upon a tilly bottom ; but in gen-
eral the soil is a fine rich loam upon a bottom of soft
clay. It is well-drained and cultivated, and is suit-
able to the production of any kind of crop, except
perhaps flax, which, though grown here, has always
been a precarious crop on the east coast of Scotland.
The hills in the adjoining parishes of Rathven and
Deskford so steadily attract the clouds and vapours
from the sea, that the air of Cullen is dry, pure, and
extremely salubrious. Most of the fields have a
gentle slope towards the north and east. Previous
to 1744, the Bin was covered with heath, but it was
then richly planted to the very summit by the Earl
of Findlater and Seafield. Cullen House, the low-
land seat of the present Earl of Seafield, — an an-
cient but princely mansion, rich in valuable paint-
ings— stands in the low grounds, behind the town
of Cullen, having a beautiful prospect to the south,
and a fine view of the .Moray frith to the north. It
is picturesquely elevated on a perpendicular rock,
along the southern base of which, Cullen Water,
which animates the beautiful landscape, passes in
a hollow rocky channel 64 feet deep beneath the
mansion walls. Over this stream an excellent
single-arched stone-bridge of 82 feet span, connects
the woods, parks, gardens, and pleasure-grounds,
with the mansion. The plantations, within the um-
brageous recesses of which the mansion is embow-
ered, consist of lofty ash, and a great variety of
other valuable wood, beneath the shady foliage of
which a good bridle-road, besides many delightful
serpentine footwalks, wind, by the easiest acclivi-
ties, to the summit of the Bin, whence the surround-
ing country may be viewed, to a wide extent. Great
additional improvements have been made on these
beautiful policies since their first formation; and in
particular the gardens and parks have been extended
by the literal removal of the old town of Cullen. Not
far from Cullen House is the vestige of a building
in which Elizabeth, queen of Robert the Bruce, is
said to have died. Near the town of Cullen, and
overhanging the sea, is an eminence called the Cas-
tlehill, where are the remains of an ancient fort —
without historical record — whencenumerous vitrified
stones have been extracted. In this quarter of the
parish there are three remarkable masses of flinty
rock, lofty and spiring, named ' the Three Kings of
Cullen,' so called from a legendary tale that a Da-
nish king, a Norwegian king, and a Scottish king
met here to decide their feuds by personal combat.
Partly about the mouth of Cullen Water, but chiefly
at a moorish place called the Baads of Cullen, a
short distance to the west, where are a great many
tumuli, a fierce battle, called the Battle of the Baads,
is said to have been fought in 960 between an army
of Danish invaders and a Scottish army under their
king Indulfus, wherein the Danes were routed and
the Scottish monarch killed. Manufactures of linen
and damask, together with bleaching, were set a-
going in the parish, about the middle of last cen-
tury, and seemed for a time to succeed, but have en-
tirely died out. The herring fishery off the coast
has greatly fluctuated, but other fisheries are more
steady. The total value of the raw produce of the
parish was estimated in 1842 at £3,020 in the rural
departments, and £4,523 in the fishery departments.
Assessed property in 1860, £2,001. There are on
Ciulen Water within the parish a meal-mill, a flax-
mill, and a saw-mill; and there is an extensive dis-
tillery at Tochieneal. Boat-building is always car-
ried on to a considerable extent, and sbip-building
occasionally. The parish is traversed by the road
from Banff to Elgin. Population exclusive of the
Rathven annexation, in 1831, 1,593; in 1861, 1,975.
Houses, 359.
This parish is in the presbytery of Fordyce, and
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Earl of Seafield.
Stipend, £156 5s. 8d.; glebe, £27. Schoolmaster's
salary £52 10s., with fees, and a share of the Diek
bequest. The parish church is a cruciform building
of great antiquity, situated only 40 yards from Cul-
len House, and nearly a mile from the present town
of Cullen, enlarged about the year 1798, and con-
taining 800 sittings. It was founded as a chapel
by King Robert Bruce, and refounded as a collegiate
church, for a provost, six prebends, and two singing
boys, by the ancestor of the Earl of Findlater, and
other parties, in 1543. A chapel of ease, called
Seafield church, was built in the Rathven district,
under the impulse of the church extension move-
ment, in 1839, and contains 450 sittings. The
patron of this also is the Earl of Seafield. There is
a Free church in Cullen, whose attendance in 1851
was 500, and whose receipts in 1865 amounted to
£198 5s. 11 Jd. There are also an Independent chapel
and four non -parochial schools. The parish of Cul-
len was disjoined at a remote period from the parish
of Fordyce.
The Town of Cullen stands on the road from
Banff to Elgin, near the head of Cullen bay, and
adjacent to the east bank of Cullen Water, 6 miles
west of Portsoy, 121 north-east of Fochabers, 14
west by north of Banff, and 58J north-west by
north of Aberdeen. From its situation at the mouth
of the Cullen or Culan Water, it was anciently
called Inverculan. That part of the town nearest
the mouth of the stream, however, is at present
CULLEN.
330
CULLICUDDEN.
called Fishertown or Seatown. The main part,
called the old town, stood more inland: it was
meanly built, and of little comparative importance,
and about the year 1822 was utterly demolished, in
order to make way for the improvements of Cullen
House. The new town, by which it was replaced,
stands close to the eastern extremity of Fishertown,
on ground elevated considerably above it. It is a
very neat little town. The houses are good, and
the streets laid out on a regular and tasteful plan;
only about one - half of which, however, has yet
been executed. But the Boundary commissioners
observe, that the town " being favourably situated
for fishing, and in a well-cultivated district, may be
expected to increase." In the middle of Seafield-
street, and apparently intended as the centre of the
future town, is an open market-place. Upper Cas-
tle-street, running south-west, parallel to Seafield-
street, and at right angles with the street leading
through the market to the burying-place, at the
north-eastern extremity of the ground-plan of the
town, is another principal street. The length of
Seafield-street is about 400 yards, and of Upper
Castle-street 300 yards. The street running to the
burying-ground, though as yet built for only half
its length, extends to between 500 and 600 yards,
according to the plan. The Banff and Elgin road
branches off through the two first streets, forming
between them, at their south-eastern extremities, an
angular area of ornamental ground at the entrance
to the town. The principal public building is one
erected in 1822, at the cost of £3,000, in the central
square, disposed partly in a commodious hotel, and
partly in a burgh council-room, a large court-room,
and an elegant ball-room. The symmetrical form
of the new town — which enjoys a circle of genteel
society, consisting of persons of moderate incomes
— presents a curious contrast to the contiguous un-
usually 'awkward squad' of fishermen's houses
constituting Fishertown, and which display a total
independence even of anything like partial subordi-
nation to the ' rank and "file ' of streets. A natural
local disadvantage of Cullen is the want of a plenti-
ful supply of good water. There is but one good
spring ; and to Cullen Water there is considerable
difficulty of access, from the steepness of its banks.
The town, however, has been supplied through
pipes from the annexed district of Rathven parish.
A harbour, in a situation convenient for the town,
was formed in 1817; and enlarged in 1834, by the
Earl of Seafield, at a cost of upwards of £10,000. It
has at the pier's head a depth of 8J feet at neap
tides, and of 12 feet at spring tides, and is one of
the best artificial harbours in the Moray frith.
Several vessels of from 40 to 100 tons, and a great
many fishing-boats, belong to the town. The chief
imports are barley for distillation, coals, salt, and
staves; and the chief exports are herrings, dried
fish, oats, potatoes, and timber. The trade in fish
is extensive, large quantities of cod, skate, ling, and
haddocks being cured and dried for sale at Montrose,
Arbroath, Dundee, and Leith, to which they are
carried in the Cullen fishing-boats. The Edinburgh
and Inverness steamers call at Cullen. Abundant
supplies of peat fuel are obtained from the vicinity
of the town and from Deckford parish. Cullen has
offices of the Union and the North of Scotland banks,
a public news-room, a public library, and a gas-light
company. Fairs for cattle and horses are held on
the 7th of January, the third Friday of May, the
last Tuesday, old style, of September, and the second
Friday of November.
Though Cullen is now principally a modern town,
it is a burgh of considerable antiquity, as is proved
by a charter of James I., dated 6th March, 1455;
ratifying another of Robert I., by which were granted
to this burgh the usual liberties, privileges, and ad-
vantages. Similar to Banff, it was at one time a
constabulary, of which the Earl of Findlater was
hereditary constable, by virtue of an ancient right.
He ultimately became hereditary chief-magistrate,
without either the Scotch title of provost or the
English dignity of lord-mayor, but merely under
that of preses. Thus far the old constitution of this
royal burgh was peculiar. The acting magistracy
consisted of 3 bailies, a dean-of-guild, a treasurer,
and 21 councillors, — in all 26; the jurisdiction ex-
tending over a district of about 2 miles from east to
west, and 2 from north to south; but for many years
no burgh-courts were held. There have been here
no corporations ; eveiy one being entitled to buy,
sell, and manufacture as he chose. Burgess-ship
was constituted simply by giving a ' Burgess act.'
Merchant-councillors were chosen from the sellers
of goods, trades' councillors from handicraftsmen.
The burgh is now governed by a provost, and 12
councillors. Municipal constituency, in 1865, 44.
The territory over which the jurisdiction of the
burgh is now exercised extends from the water mouth
of Cullen, along the bay to Maiden- paps; thence
due south to the Loggie road; thence in straight
lines, to the point at which the Deskford and the
Banff roads meet ; thence to the point at which the
Seafield and the Slacks roads meet; and thence to
the bridge over Cullen water, the boundary ter-
minating at the water mouth. Though the sheriff-
court be within a few miles, and town-courts at the
door, the amity and good feeling of the inhabitants
are stated in the Old Statistical report, to have been
so great, that " hardly such a thing as a lawsuit was
heard of among them." The only place of confine-
ment is a lock-up house, erected about 30 years ago
for the short imprisonment of petty delinquents,
and, in case of need, for the safe custody of prisoners
on their way to the county-jail at Banff. This
lock-up house consists of 3 cells, vaulted, paved,
and lighted, but without fire-place or airing-ground.
The property of this burgh was in ancient times
considerable; but it was alienated to the Seafield
family. There were no alienations during 40 years
previous to 1833. The property recently consisted
of feu-duties, houses, and money. The value of
the feu-duties in 1833, was nearly £411 3s. 4d., and
the sums of money amounted to £325 10s., of
which £250 were lent to the curator of the Earl of
Seafield. The revenue of the burgh, in 1833, was
£73 0s. 1-ftd.; expenditure £42 3s. lid. There
were no debts. In 1864-5 the revenue was only
£54. The appointment, during pleasure, of the
dean-of-guild, procurator fiscal, treasurer, town-
clerk and town-officer, with almost nominal sal-
aries, constitutes all the offices under the patronage
of the burgh; but there are two mortifications said
to be under the management of the magistrates and
kirk-session. These are Lorimer's and Latta's bur-
saries; the first for educating a student at the uni-
versity of Aberdeen; the second for educating a boy
at the school of Cullen. The permanent assess-
ments are land-tax, stent, burgh-mail, and cess and
land cess. Cullen unites with Elgin, Banff, Kin-
tore, Peterhead, Macduff, and Inverary, in return-
ing a member to parliament. The parliamentary
constituency in 1865, was 44. The parliamentary
borough-boundaries are not nearly so extensive as
the royalty. Population in 1841 of the new town of
Cullen, 712; of the Fishertown of Cullen, 711.
Population of the municipal burgh in 1841, 2,622;
in 1861, 3,543. Houses, 657. Population of the
parliamentary burgh in 1861, 1,818. Houses, 331.
CULLICUDDEN, an ancient parish, now forming
CULLISAID.
331
CULLODEN.
tlio western district of tlie parish of Kesolis, or
united parish of Kirkniiehacl and Cullicudilen, in
Cromartyshire and Ross-shire. It was a rectory,
belonging to the chapter of Ross, and continued to
be a separate parish till after the establishment of
Presbyterianism in 16SS. A fragment of its church
is still standing; and a small creek a little to the
west of this was formerly famous, though not now,
for great abundance of the small delicate fish called
the cuddy. Hence the name Cullicudden, which is
of Gaelic origin, and signifies the Creek of Cuddies,
or Cuddy-Creek. See Kiukmiciiael.
CULLIN HILLS. See Cociiullin Hills.
CULLISAID (Loch), a lake, at the east side of
Ben Laoghal, in the parish of Tongue, Sutherland-
shire
CULLIVOE, a bay and a post-office station, in
North Yell, Shetland. The bay forms a pretty safe
open roadstead.
CULLOCHBURN. See CoLi.ocnBuntj.
CULLODEN, an estate on the north-east verge
of Inverness-shire. It has a station on the High-
land railway, 3J miles east of Inverness. Culloden
moor here, where the army of Prince Charles Ed-
ward was totally defeated, on the 16th of April, 1746,
by the royal troops under the Duke of Cumberland,
lies near the Moray frith, from 3 to 6 miles east of In-
verness. It comprises an exposed tabular ridge, in
the midst of an extensive, chilling, dismal landscape.
A considerable part of it has recently been brought
under cultivation ; but all of it previously was a
wild waste, a heathy moor, utterly bleak and
dreary. Its general surface was far too smooth and
open to be suitable for the tactics of Highland com-
batants, but served proportionably well for the
movements of the royal artillery and cavalry. The
part on which Charles Edward drew up bis army
was about 1 J mile south of Culloden House, near the
commencement of the ridge's southerly declination ;
his right flank was covered by one of the walls of
a square stone enclosure, which extended from his
position downward to the river Nairn; his left flank
was overlooked, rather than covered, at a consider-
able distance, by the woods of Culloden House; and
the part of the moor immediately in his front was
somewhat marshy and hollow. A vast assemblage
of the graves of the slain is still indicated by two or
three grassy mounds, which rise slightly above the
circumjacent heath, at the distance of about 200 or
300 yards from some corn land and a cluster of cot-
tages; a carriage road from Inverness to Nairn,
made not many years ago, passes through the moor,
and touches the principal line of graves at their
northern extremity ; and a monumental tumulus or
obelisk, founded hi 1850, marks the spot where the
contest was fiercest.
The Highland army was drawn up in three lines.
The first, or front line, consisted of the Athole bri-
gade, which had the right, the Camerons, Stewarts
of Appin, John Roy Stewart's regiment, Frasers,
Mackintoshes, Farquharsons, Maclachlans, and
Macleans, united into one regiment; the Macleods,
Chisholms, Macdonalds of Clanranald, Keppoch, and
Glengarry. The three Macdonald regiments formed
the left. Lord George Murray commanded on the
right, Lord John Drammond in the centre, and the
Duke of Perth on the left of the first line. There
had been, a day or two before, a violent contention
among the chiefs about precedency of rank. The
Macdonalds claimed the right as their due, in sup-
port of wliich claim they stated, that, as a reward
for the fidelity of Angus Macdonald, Lord of the
Isles, in protecting Robert the Bruce for upwards of
nine months in his dominions, that prince, at the
battle of Bannoekbum, conferred the post of honour',
the right, upon the Macdonalds, — that this post had
ever since been enjoyed by them, unless when
yielded from courtesy upon particular occasions, as
was done to the chief of the Macleans at the battle
of Harlaw. Lord George Murray, however, main-
tained that, under the Marquis of Montrose, the
right had been assigned to the Athole men, and ho
insisted that that post should be now conferred upon
them, in the contest with the Duke of Cumberland's
army. In this unseasonable demand, Lord George
is said to have been supported by Lochiel and his
friends. Charles refused to decide a question with
the merits of which he was imperfectly acquainted;
but, as it was necessary to adjust the difference im-
mediately, he prevailed' upon the commanders! of the
Macdonald regiments to waive their pretensions in
the present instance. The Macdonalds in general
were far from being satisfied with the complaisance
of their commanders, and, as they had occupied the
post of honour at Gladsmuir and Falkirk, they con-
sidered their deprivation of it, on the present occa-
sion, as ominous. The Duke of Perth, while he
stood at the head of the Glengarry regiment, hear-
ing the murmurs of the Macdonalds, said, that ii
they behaved with their usual valour, they would
make a right of the left, and that he would change
his name to Macdonald; but these proud clansmen
lent a deaf ear to him. — The second line of tha
Highland army consisted of the Gordons under Lord
Lewis. Gordon, formed in column on the right, the
French Royal Scots, the Irish picquets or brigade,
Lord Kilmarnock's foot guards, Lord John Drum-
mond's regiment, and Glenbucket's regiment in
column on the left, flanked on the right by Fitz-
James's dragoons, and Lord Elcho's horse-guards,
and on the left by the Perth squadron, under Lords
Strathallan and Pitsligo, and the Prince's body
guards under Lord Balmerino. General Stapleton
had the command of this line. — The third line, or
reserve, consisted of the Duke of Perth's and Lord
Ogilvy's regiments under the last-mentioned noble-
man. The prince himself, surrounded by a troop
of Fitz-James's horse, took his station on a very
small eminence behind the centre of the first line,
from which he had a complete view of the whole
field of battle. The extremities of the front line
and the centre were each protected by four pieces
of cannon.
The English army continued steadily to advance
till within a mile of the position occupied by the
Highland army, when the Duke of Cumberland
ordered a halt, and, after reconnoitering the position
of the Highlanders, again formed Ms army for bat-
tle in three lines, and in the following order: — The
first line consisted of six regiments, viz., the Royals,
(the 1st,) Cholmondley's, (the 34th,) Price's, (the
14th,) the Scots Fusileers, (the 21st,) Monro's, (the
37th,) and Barrel's (the 4th). The Earl of Albemarle
had the command of this ling. In the intermediate
spaces between each of these regiments were placed
two pieces of cannon, making ten in whole. The
second line, which consisted of five regiments, com-
prised those of Pulteney, (the 13th,) Bligh, (the
20th,) Sempil, (the 25th,) Ligonier, (the 48th,) and
Wolfe's, (the 8th,) and was under the command of
General fluske. Three pieces of cannon were placed
between the exterior regiments of this line and those
next them. The third line, or corps de reserve,
under Brigadier Mordaunt, consisted of four regi-
ments, viz. Battereau's, (the 62d,) Howard's, (the
3d), Fleming's, (the 36th,) and Blakeney's, (the
27th,) flanked by Kingston's dragoons (the 3d).
The order in which the regiments of the different
lines are enumerated, is that in which they stood
from right to left. The flanks of the front line were
CULLODEN.
332
CULLODEN.
protected on the left by Kerr's dragoons, (the 11th,)
consisting of three squadrons, commanded by Lord
Ancrum, and on the right by Cobham's dragoons,
(the 10th,) consisting also of three squadrons, under
General Blande, with the additional security of a
morass, extending towards the sea; but thinking
himself quite safe on the right, the Duke afterwards
ordered these last to the left, to aid in an intended
attack upon the right flank of the Highlanders.
The Argyle men, with the exception of 140, who
were upon the left of the reserve, were left in charge
of the baggage.
The dispositions of both armies are considered to
have been well-arranged ; but both were better cal-
culated for defence than for attack. The arrange-
ment of the English army is generally considered
to have been superior to that of the Highlanders ;
as, from the regiments in the second and third lines
being placed directly behind the vacant spaces be-
tween the regiments in the lines respectively be-
fore them, the Duke of Cumberland, in the event
of one regiment in the front line being broken,
could immediately bring up two to supply its place.
But this opinion is questionable, as the Highlanders
had a column on the flanks of the second line, which
might have been used either for extension or echellon
movement towards any point to the centre, to sup-
port either the first or second line. In the disposi-
tions described, and about the distance of a mile from
each other, did the two armies stand for some time
gazing at one another, each expecting that the other
would advance and give battle. Whatever may have
been the feelings of Prince Charles on this occasion,
those of the Duke of Cumberland appear to have
been far from enviable. The thoughts of Preston
and Falkirk could not fail to excite in him the most
direful apprehensions for the result of a combat
affecting the very existence of his father's crown ;
and that he placed but a doubtful reliance upon his
troops, is evident from a speech which he now made
to his army. He began by informing them, that
they were about to fight in defence of their King,
their religion, their liberties, and property, and that
if they only stood firm he had no doubt he would
lead them on to certain victory; but as he would
much rather, he said, be at the head of one thousand
brave and resolute men than of ten thousand if mixed
with cowards, he added, that if there were any
amongst them who, through timidity, were diffident
of their courage, or others who, from conscience or
inclination, felt a repugnance to perform their duty,
he requested them to retire immediately, and he pro-
mised them his free pardon for doing so, as by re-
maining they might dispirit or disorder the other
troops, and bring dishonour and disgrace on the army
under his command.
As the Highlanders remained in their position,
the Duke of Cumberland again put his army in
marching order, and, £fter it had advanced, with
fixed bayonets, within half-a-mile of the front line
of the Highlanders, it again formed as before. In
this last movement the English army had to pass
a piece of hollow ground, which was so soft and
swampy, that the horses which drew the camion
sunk ; and some of the soldiers, after slinging
their firelocks and unyoking the horses, had to
drag the cannon across the bog. As by this last
movement the army advanced beyond the morass
which protected the right flank, the Duke immedi-
ately ordered up Kingston's horse from the reserve,
and a small squadron of Cobham's dragoons, which
had been patrolling to cover it ; and to extend his
line, and prevent his being outflanked on the right, he
also at the same time ordered up Pulteney's regiment,
(the 13th,) from the second line to the right of the
royals; and Fleming's, (the 36th,) Howard's, (the
3d,) and Battereau's, (the 62d,) to the right of
Bligh's, (the 20th,) in the second line, leaving
Blakeney's, (the 27th,) as a reserve. During an
interval of about half-an-hour which elapsed before
the action commenced, some manoeuvring took place
in attempts by both armies to outflank each other.
While these manoeuvres were making, a heavy
shower of sleet came on, which, though discourag-
ing to the Duke's army, from the recollection of the
untoward occurrence at Falkirk, was not considered
very dangerous, as they had now the wind in their
backs. To encourage his men, the Duke of Cum-
berland rode along the lines addressing himself hur-
riedly to every regiment as he passed. He exhorted
his men to rely chiefly upon their bayonets, and to
allow the Highlanders to mingle with them that they
might make them " know the men they had to deal
with." After the changes mentioned had been exe-
cuted, His Eoyal Highness took his station behind the
royals, between the first and second line, and almost
in front of the left of Howard's regiment, waiting
for the expected attack. Meanwhile, a singular oc
currence took place, characteristic of the self-devo
tion which the Highlanders were ready on all
occasions to manifest towards the Prince and his
cause. Conceiving that by assassinating the Duke
of Cumberland he would confer an essential service
to the Prince, a Highlander resolved at the certain
sacrifice of his own life to make the attempt. With
this intention he entered the English lines as a de-
serter, and being granted quarter, was allowed to go
through the ranks. He wandered about with ap-
parent indifference, eyeing the different officers as he
passed along, and it was not long till an opportunity
occurred, as he conceived, for executing his fell pur-
pose. The Duke having ordered Lord Bury, one of
his aides-de-camp, to reconnoitre, His Lordship
crossed the path of the Highlander, who, mistaking
him, from his dress, for the Duke, (the regimentals
of both being similar,) instantly seized a musket
which lay on the ground, and discharged it at His
Lordship. Fortunately he missed his aim, and a
soldier who was standing by immediately shot him
dead upon the spot.
In expectation of a battle the previous day, Charles
had animated his troops by an appeal to their feel-
ings ; and on the present occasion he rode from rank
to rank encouraging his men, and exhorting them to
act as they had done at Prestonpans and at Falkirk.
The advance of Lord Bury, who went forward
within a hundred yards of the insurgents to recon-
noitre, appears to have been considered bj' the High-
landers as the proper occasion for beginning the
battle. Taking off their bonnets, the Highlanders
set up a loud shout, which being answered by the
royal troops with an huzza, the Highlanders about
one o'clock commenced a cannonade on the right,
which was followed by the cannon on the left ;
but the fire from the last, owing to the want of
cannoneers, was after the first round discontinued.
The first volley from the right seemed to create
some confusion on the left of the royal army, but
so badly were the cannon served and pointed, that
though the cannonade was continued upwards of
half-an-hour, only one man in Bligh's regiment,
who had a leg carried off by a cannon-ball, received
any injury. After the Highlanders had continued I
firing for a short time, Colonel Belford, who di-
rected the cannon of the Duke's army, opened a
fire from the cannon in the front line, which was j
at first chiefly aimed at the horse, probably either
because they, from their conspicuous situation, were !
a better mark than the infantry, or because it was '
supposed that Charles was among them. Such wan |
OULLODEN.
ms,
CULLODEN.
tho accuracy of the aim taken by the royal artillery,
that several balls entered the ground among the
horses' legs, and bespattered the prince with the
mud which they raised; and one of them struck
the horse on which he rode two inches above the
knee. The animal became so unmanageable, that
Charles was obliged to change him for another. One
of his servants, who stood behind with a led horse
in his hand, was killed on the spot. Observing
that the wall on the right flank of the Highland
army prevented him from attacking it on that point,
the Duke ordered Colonel Belford to continu ■ the
cannonade, with the view of provoking the High-
landers and inducing them to advance to the attack.
These, on the other hand, endeavoured to draw the
royal army forward by sending down several parties
by way of defiance. Some of these approached three
several times within a hundred yards of the right
of the royal army, firing their pistols and brandish-
ing their swords ; but with the exception of the
small squadron of horse on the right, which ad-
vanced a little, the line remained immoveable.
Meanwhile, Lord George Murray, observing that a
squadron of the English dragoons and a party of
foot, consisting of two companies of the Argyle-
shiremen, and one of Lord Loudon's Highlanders,
had detached themselves from the left of the royal
army, and were marching down towards the river
Nairn, and conceiving that it -was their intention
to flank the Highlanders, or to come upon their
rear when engaged in front, he directed Gordon of
Avochy to advance with his battalion, and prevent
the foot from entering the enclosure ; but before
this battalion could reach them, they broke into
the enclosure, and throwing down part of the east
wall, and afterwards a piece of the west wall in
the rear of the second line, made a free passage for
the dragoons, who formed in the rear of the Prince's
army. Upon this, Lord George ordered the guards
and Fitz-James's horse to form opposite to the dra-
goons to keep them in check. Each party stood
upon the opposite sides of a ravine, the ascent to
which was so steep, that neither could venture
across in presence of the other with safety. The
foot remained within the enclosure, and Avoehy's
battalion was ordered to watch their motions. This
movement took place about the time the Highlanders
were moving forward to the attack.
It was now high time for the Highlanders to come
to a close engagement. Lord George had sent
Colonel Kerr to the Prince to know if he should
begin the attack, which the Prince accordingly or-
dered; but His Lordship, for some reason or other,
delayed advancing. It is probable he expected that
the Duke would come forward, and that by doing so,
and retaining the wall and a small farm-house on his
right, he would not ran the risk of being flanked.
Perhaps he waited for the advance of the left wing,
which, being not so far forward as the right, was
directed to begin the attack, and orders had been
sent to the Duke of Perth to that effect ; but the
left remained motionless. Anxious for the attack,
Charles sent an order by an aide-de-camp to Lord
George Murray to advance, but His Lordship never
received it, as the bearer was killed by a cannon-ball
while on his way to the right. He sent a message
about the same time to Lochiel, desiring him to
urge upon Lord George the necessity of an imme-
diate attack. Galled beyond endurance by the fire
of the English, which carried destruction among
the clans, the Highlanders became quite clamorous,
and called aloud to be led forward without further
delay. Unable any longer to restrain their impa-
tience, Lord George had just resolved upon an im-
mediate advance; but before he had time to issue
the order along the line, the Mackintoshes, with a
heroism worthy of that brave clan, rushel forward
enveloped in the smoke of the enemy's cannon.
The fire of the centre field-pieces, and a discharge
of musquetry from the Scotch Fusileers, forced them
to incline a little to the right; hut all the regiments
to their right, led on by Lord George Murray in
person, and the united regiment of the Maclauch-
lans and the Macleans on their left, coming down
close after them, the whole moved forward together
at a pretty quick pace. When within pistol-shot of
the English line, they received a murderous fire, not
only in front from some field-pieces, which for the
first time were now loaded with grape-shot, but in
flank from a side-battery supported by the Camp-
bells and Lord Loudon's Highlanders. Whole
ranks were literally swept away by the terrible fire
of the English. Yet, notwithstanding the dreadful
carnage in their ranks, the Highlanders continued
to advance, and, after giving their fire close to the
English line, which, from the density of the smoke,
was scarcely perceptible even within pistol-shot, the
right wing, consisting of the Athole Highlanders
and the Camerons, rushed in sword in hand, and
broke through Barrel's and Monro's regiments,
which stood on the left of the first line. These
regiments bravely defended themselves with their
spontoons and bayonets, but such was the impetu-
osity of the onset that they would entrely have
been cut to pieces had they not been immediately
supported by two regiments from the second line,
on the approach of which they retired behind the
regiments on their right, after sustaining a loss in
killed and wounded of upwards of two hundred men.
After breaking through these two regiments, the
Highlanders, passing by the two field-pieces which
had annoyed them in front, hurried forward to
attack the left of the second line. They were met
by a tremendous fire of grape-shot from the three
field-pieces on the left of the second line, and by
a discharge of musquetry from Bligh's and Sempill's
regiments, which carried havoc through their
ranks, and made them at first recoil ; but maddened
by despair, and utterly regardless of their lives,
they rushed upon an enemy whom they felt but
could not see, amid the cloud of smoke in which the
assailants were buried. The same kind of charge
was made by the Stewarts of Appin, the Frasers,
Mackintoshes, and the other centre regiments upon
the regiments in their front, which they drove back
upon the second line, which they also attempted to
break; but finding themselves unable they gave up
the contest, but not until numbers had been cut
down at the mouths of the cannon.
While advancing towards the second line, Lord
George Murray, in attempting to dismount from
his horse, which had become unmanageable, was
thrown ; but, recovering himself, he ran to the rear
and brought up two or three regiments from the
second line to support the first ; but although they
gave their fire, nothing could be done, — all was
lost. Unable to break the second line, and being
greatly cut up by the fire of Wolfe's regiment, and
by Cobham's and Kerr's dragoons, who had formed
enpotence on their right flank, the right wing also
gave up the contest, and turning about, cut their
way back, sword in hand, through those who had
advanced and formed on the ground they had passed
over in charging to their front. Ir. consequence of
the unwillingness of the left to advance first as
directed, Lord George Murray had sent the order to
attack from right to left; but, hurried by the impe-
tuosity of the" Mackintoshes, the right and centre
did not wait till the order, which required soma
minutes in the delivery, had been communicated
CULLODEN.
334
CULEOSS.
along the line. Thus the right and centre had the
start considerably, and quickening their pace as they
went along, had closed with the front line of the
English army before the left had got half way over
the ground that separated the two armies. The
difference between the right and centre and the left
was rendered still more considerable from the cir-
cumstance, as noted by an eye-witness, that the two
armies were not exactly parallel to one another, the
right of the Prince's army being nearer the Duke's
army than the left. Nothing could be more unfor-
tunate for the Prince than this isolated attack, as it
was only by a general shock of the whole of the
English line that he had any chance of a victory.
The clan regiments on the left of the line, appre-
hensive that they would be flanked by Pulteney's
regiment and the horse which had been brought up
from the corps de reserve, did not advance sword in
hand. After receiving the fire of the regiments
opposite to them, they answered it by a general dis-
charge, and drew their swords for the attack ; but
observing that the right and centre had given way,
they turned their backs and fled without striking a
blow. Stung to the quick by the misconduct of the
Macdonalds, the brave Keppoch seeing himself
abandoned by his clan, advanced with his drawn
sword in one hand, and his pistol in the other ; but
he had not proceeded far, when he was brought
down to the ground by a musket-shot. He was
followed by Donald Roy Macdonald, formerly a
lieutenant in his own regiment, and now a captain
in Clanranald's regiment, who, on his falling, en-
treated him not to throw away his life, assuring him
that his wound was not mortal, and that he might
easily join his regiment in the retreat ; but Keppoch
refused to listen to the solicitations of his clansman,
and, after recommending him to take care of him-
self, the wounded chief received another shot, and
fell to rise no more.
Fortunately for the Highlanders the English
army did not follow up the advantages it had
gained by an immediate pursuit. Kingston's horse
at first followed the Macdonalds, some of whom
were almost surrounded by them, but the horse
were kept in check by the French picquets, who
brought them off. The dragoons on the left of the
English line were in like manner kept at bay by
Ogilvy's regiment, which faced about upon them
several times. After these ineffectual attempts, the
English cavalry on the right and left met in the
centre, and the front line having dressed its ranks,
orders were issued for the whole to advance in pur-
suit of the Highlanders. Charles, who, from the
small eminence on which he stood, had observed
with the deepest concern the defeat and flight of the
clan regiments, was about proceeding forward to
rally them contrary to the earnest entreaties of Sir
Thomas Sheridan and others, who assured him that
he would not succeed. All their expostulations
would, it is said, have been vain, had not General
O'Sullivan laid hold of the bridle of Charles's horse,
and led him off the field. It was, indeed, full time
to retire, as the whole army was now in full retreat,
and was followed by the whole of Cumberland's
forces. To protect the Prince, and secure his re-
treat, most of his horse assembled about his person;
but there was little danger, as the victors advanced
very leisurely, and confined themselves to cutting
down some defenceless stragglers who fell in their
way. After leaving the field, Clmrles put himself
at the head of the right wing, which retired in such
order, that the cavalry sent to pursue it could make
no impression.
Culloden House stands on the verge of the moor,
surrounded by plantations, and commanding a noble
view of the Moray frith, and of the mountains on
the opposite side of the Nairn. It is the seat of the
ancient and respectable family of Forbes, and has
been renewed in an elegant style since 1746.
Prince Charles slept in the old mansion on the
night before the battle. The owner of it at that
time was the celebrated Duncan Forbes, Lord Pre-
sident of the Court of Session, who previously gave
advice to Government which might have tended
almost to prevent the rebellion, and whose influence
in the Highlands, powerfully felt and energetically
used, after the rebellion did break out, aided very
materially to suppress it. "What a curious coinci-
dence that the sudden final extinction of the rebel-
lion, in pitched battle, after the contending forces
had traversed one-half the length of Great Britain,
should have occurred on that gentleman's grounds,
close to his own door !
CULLOW, a place near Kirriemuir, Forfarshire,
where fairs are held on the last Friday of April,
and on the Monday of October before the fail of
Kirriemuir.
CULLY. See Gikthon.
CULMALLIE. See Golspie.
CULEOSS, a parish, containing a royal burgh o!
its own name, also the villages of Blairburn and
Low Valleyfield, in the detached district of Perth-
shire. It is bounded on the south by the frith of
Forth, and on other sides by the parishes of Tulliallan,
Clackmannan, Saline, and Torryburn. The barony
of Kincardine formerly belonged to it, but in 1672
was annexed to Tulliallan. The parish, as at pre-
sent constituted, has a somewhat square outline, of
about 4 miles on each side. The surface rises
abruptly from the shore, — undulates thence in gentle
inequalities, on a comparatively uniform level,
throughout most of the area, — and ascends to consi-
derable elevation, but without forming anything
which can be properly called a hill, in the north and
north-west. The soil on the shore is a very rich
black loam, — in the central districts, a very fertile
clay, — and in the high grounds, naturally moorish
and long a waste, but now much improved by art,
and either under wood or in profitable cultivation.
The little rivulets Bluther and Grange are the
chief streams. Good potter's clay has been
partially wrought. Excellent ironstone occurs,
but not in large quantity. A bed of limestone
is found in one place, but not under favourable
circumstances. Coal mines were once exten-
sive, but they can no longer yield a profitable
return. These mines anciently belonged to the
monks of Culross abbey. Colville, commendator
of the abbey in 1575, let the coal to Sir George
Bruce of Blairhall, who resumed the working of it,
and was the first in the island who drained coal-pits
by means of machinery. Below the house of
Castlehill, about a quarter of a mile west of Culross,
were not many years ago some remains of the
masonry employed in the erection of an Egyptian
wheel — commonly called a chain and bucket — for
draining the pits. Sir George carried on the works
with great spirit. A pit was sunk here, which en-
tering from the land, was carried nearly a mile out
into the sea ; and there the coal was shipped by a
moat which was insulated at high-water, and had a
subterranean communication with the pit. This
pit was reckoned one of the greatest wonders in the
island, by Taylor, an English traveller, who saw it
in the beginning of the 17th century. There is a
tradition, that James VI., revisiting his native
country after his accession to the English crown,
made an excursion into Fife ; and, resolving to take
the diversion of hunting in the neighbourhood of
Dunfermline, invited the company then attending
CULROSS.
660
CULKOSS.
him to dine along with him at " a collier's house,"
meaning the abbey-house of Culross, then belonging
to Sir George Bruce. Being conducted, by his own
desire, to sec the works below ground, he was led
insensibly by his host and guide to the moat above
mentioned, it being then high water; and, having
ascended from the pit, and seeing himself, without
any previous intimation, surrounded by the sea, he
was seized with an immediate apprehension of some
plot against his liberty or life, and hastily called
out, " Treason 1 Treason!" But his faithful guide
quickly dispelled his fears, by assuring him that he
was in perfect safety ; and, pointing to an elegant
pinnace that was made fast to the moat, desired to
know whether it was most agreeable to His Majesty
to be carried ashore in it, or to return by the same
way he came; upon which the King, prefer-
ring the shortest way back, was carried directly
ashore, expressing much satisfaction at what he had
seen. It is certain, that at that time the King was
sumptuously entertained at the abbey-house. Some
of the glasses then made use of in the dessert were
long preserved in the family ; and the room where
His Majesty was entertained retains the name of
' the King's room.' The great coal-pit of Cuirass
was destroyed by a violent storm, which, in the
month of March," 1625, washed away the stone bul-
wark, and drowned the coal. From this catastrophe
the Culross collieries never recovered; and the stones
of the rampart were afterwards sold to the magis-
trates of Edinburgh, who employed them in repair-
ing the pier of Leith. The landed property of the
parish is at present distributed among nine heritors.
The real rental in 1839, was £6,289; and the esti-
mated yearly value of raw produce, £14,277 10s.
Assessed property in 1866, £9,106. Castle-hill, a
modern mansion adjacent to the Forth, occupies the
site of the ancient strong-hold of Dunamarle, the
easternmost possession of the Macdufis, Thanes of
Fife, where Lady Macduff and her children were
murdered by order of Macbeth. Blair Castle, a
handsome modern residence farther west, occupies
the site of a former residence of the same name,
said to have been built about the time of the Refor-
mation by Archbishop Hamilton, of St. Andrews.
Valleyfield House, in the eastern part of the parish,
is a fine commodious mansion. The parish is tra-
versed by the Stirling and Dunfermline railway,
and has a station on it at East Grange. There is
a small pier for the accommodation of fishing-boats.
Population in 1831, 1,488; in 1861, 1,423. Houses,
279.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dunfermline,
and synod of Fife. The charge is collegiate.
Patrons, Lady Keith and Miss Preston of Valley-
field. Stipend of the first minister, £156 6s. lOd. ;
glebe, £20. Stipend of the second minister, £116
9s. 2d. Schoolmaster's salary now is £52 10s., with
£10 from a charitable foundation, and £28 10s. fees.
The parish church is a very ancient pile, in good
modern repair, with nearly 700 sittings. There is
a Free church ; and the total sum raised in con-
nexion with it in 1S65 was £117 2s. 9^d. There
are an endowed school and two private schools.
The late Patrick Geddes, the founder of the endowed
school, made provision for giving a bursary to a
student, and a small pension to five indigent persons.
Dr. Bill, who died in 1738, mortified a sum of money
which now pensions four decayed tradesmen and two
tradesmen's widows, educates and apprentices seven
children, and yields a bursary to a student. Sir
George Bruce of Carnock, in 1639, made a bequest
which continues to give important aid to eight
widows. The late Sir Robert Preston made a valu-
able endowment for the behoof of six aged men and
six aged women. Miss Halkerston of Carskerdo in
Fife also made an important endowment for thu
benefit of indigent persons in Culross. Other bene-
factions likewise have been made for paupers.
There are a parochial library and a benefit society.
The Town of Colkoss stands on the sea-board of
the parish, 4 miles east of Kincardine, 6 west of
Dunfermline, and 22 west-north-west of Edinburgh.
It is situated on the face of a brae, amid gardens
and fruit-trees. It has a picturesque and pleasing
appearance, as seen from the frith ; but it is scat-
tered, dingy, mean, and decayed within itself, the
mere skeleton of an ancient town, almost destitute
of any attraction, excepting some architectural
antiquities. Most of its houses are shabby, and all
its streets or lanes are in disrepair. It was once a
place of great thoroughfare, first as a seat of mo-
nastic power, and next as a seat of manufacture and
commerce; but it now sits in loneliness, encom-
passed in the near distance by tumultuous traffic,
yet itself scarcely ever visited by either trader or
tourist. It formerly carried on a great trade in salt
and coal, which is now annihilated. It had at one
period upwards of 50 salt-pans, which made about
100 tons of salt weekly ; and before the Union, there
were occasionally 170 foreign vessels in the roads
at a time, loading coal and salt. About 80 years
ago, the Earl of Dundonald erected veiy extensive
works here for the extraction of tar, naphtha, and
volatile salt, from coal; but, being an unproductive
concern, it was given up and went to ruin. The
pier also went to ruin, and the harbour could never
have been a good one. Culross, by virtue of two
royal grants from James IV. and Charles II., en-
joyed the exclusive privilege of making girdles, a
kitchen utensil well-known in Scotland for baking
cakes; but in 1727 the court of session found that
no monopolies of this kind could be granted in pre-
judice of any other royal burgh ; and in conse-
quence of this decision, and the more general use of
ovens, besides the cheaper mode of casting girdles,
the manufacture has long since ceased. The chief
occupation of the inhabitants now is the weaving
of linen for the Dunfermline manufacturers, and of
muslins for the Glasgow merchants.
Culross was erected into a royal burgh by James
VI. in 1588. It is governed by a chief magistrate
and 9 councillors. In 1832, the corporation revenue
amounted to £118 lis. 5Jd., arising chiefly from
feu-duties and from shore-dues, — the expenditure
amounted to £93 9s. 10Jd., — and about 80 acres of
a common moor had been feued to Sir James Gibson
Craig, and upwards of 500 to the Dundonald family.
In 1865, the revenue was about £44. Culross
joins with Dunfermline, Inverkeitbing, Queens-
ferry, and Stirling in returning a member to parlia-
ment. Constituency in 1865, 23. The burgh of
Culross, by act of 1663, had the custody of the
coal measures of Scotland. The great chalder con-
tained about 405 Dutch stones, and the small chalder
about 162 stones. Population of the burgh in 1861,
517. Houses, 109.
The town-house is a plain building, with a small
attached jail. The parish church was the chapel
of the ancient abbey of Culross. It stands at the
head of the town, in a commanding situation, and is
an elegant cruciform Gothic edifice, with a high
massive, battlemented, square tower on the west.
The rest of the abbey is in ruins. An aisle adjoin-
ing the north wall of the church is the burial-place
of the Bruce family, and contains a fine white
marble monument of Sir George Bruce, his lady, and
several children. In this aisle was found enclosed
in a silver box, the heart of Lord Kinloss, who was
killed in a duel in Flanders, in 1613, by Sir Edward
CULEOY.
CULTER.
Saekville, afterwards Earl of Dorset. At a small
distance east of the church stands the ahhey-house,
built by Edward Lord Kinloss, in 1590, and so
called, perhaps, from its being built in the vicinity
and of the materials of the ancient abbey. It is a
very large building, in a delightful situation, com-
manding an extensive prospect of the frith of Forth,
Stirlingshire, and the Lothians. This house was
nearly demolished after it became the property of
Sir Robert Preston, but was afterwards rebuilt by
him. The abbey of Culross was founded in 1217,
by Malcolm, Thane of Fife, and dedicated to the
Virgin Mary and St. Serf. At the Reformation, the
rental of it amounted to £768 16s. 7d. Scotch, in
money; 3 chalders, 3 bolls wheat; 14 chalders, 10
bolls, 2 firlots barley; 13 chalders, 12 bolls, 3 firlots,
3 J pecks oats; 1 chalder, 2 bolls salt; 10 wedders,
22 lambs, 7 dozen of capons, 28J dozen poultry, 7 j
stones of butter ; 79J stones of cheese, and 8 trusses
of straw. At that time, there were in the abbey
nine monks of the Cistertian order. At the east
end of the town, on the sea-coast, the high road
only intervening, are the remains of a chapel called
St. Mungo's chapel, of which tradition relates, that
it was erected on or near the place where St. Mungo,
or Kentigern, was born. He is said to have been
the son of Eugenius III., King of the Scots, by a
daughter of Lothus, King of the Picts. His mother
Thametis finding herself with child, in apprehen-
sion of her father's wrath, stole privately away;
and, entering into a vessel which she found on the
nearest coast, was, by the winds and waves, cast on
land at the spot where the town of Culross is now
situated, and there was delivered of a son. Leaving
the child with a nurse, she returned home ; and his
parents being unknown, the boy was brought to St.
Servanus, who baptized and brought him up. This
Servanus, or St. Serf, lived at that time in a hermit-
age where the monastery was afterwards built.
After various peregrinations, he departed this life
at Culross, of which town he became the tutelar
saint ; and in honour of him an annual feast was
formerly solemnized by the inhabitants. This was
attended with a variety of ceremonies, particularly
parading the streets and environs of the town early
in the morning, with large branches of birch and
other trees, accompanied with drums and different
musical instruments, and adorning the cross, and
another public place called the Tron, with a profu-
sion of flowers formed into different devices. The
last abbot of Culross was Alexander, son of Sir
James Colville of Ochiltree. Sir James, brother to
the said Alexander, was raised to the dignity of
Lord Colville of Culross in 1604, at which time the
King made him a grant of the dissolved abbey.
CULROY, a post-office village in the parish of
Maybole, Ayrshire. It is a small, clean, rural place,
3£ miles north of the town of Maybole, on the low
road thence to Ayr.
CULSALMOND, a parish in the Garioch district
of Aberdeenshire. Its post-town is Old Rayne.
It is bounded by Drumblade, Forgue, Auchterless,
Rayne, Oyne, and Insch. Its length southward is
about 4J miles ; and its breadth is about 3 miles.
The river Urie runs south-south-eastward through it,
and carries off all the drainage. The surface is
level, with the exception of Coisdow and Culsalmond,
— two small hills about tin- middle of the parish.
The soil is deep and fertile, especially on the banks
of the Urie. The only fuel is peat and turf, of
which there is no great supply. There are some
quarries of a fine blue slate. Newton-house is the
principal residence. But there are five landowners ;
and the real rental is upwards of £5,000. Assessed
property in 1860, £5,373. The parish is traversed
by the road from Inverury to Huntly. Population
in 1831, 1,138; in 1861, 1,165. Houses, 192.
This parish is in the presbytery of Garioch, and
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, Sir William Forbes,
Bart. Stipend, £166 2s. Id.; glebe, £10. School-
master's salary, £40, with share of the Dick bequest,
and £21 fees. There is a Free church ; originally
and for 24 years a shed, but now a building of 1866,
in the early English style, with a tower; yearly sum
raised in 1865, £106 0s". 5d. There are also a Con-
gregational chapel and an Episcopalian chapel.
CULSH, a hill in the parish ot New Deer, Aber-
deenshire, commanding views to Peterhead, Ben-
nachie, and the uplands of Morayshire.
CULTER, a parish, containing a village of the
same name, in the south-east of the upper ward
of Lanarkshire. Its post-town is Biggar. It is
bounded on the south-east by Peebles-shire, and on
other sides by the parishes of Crawford, Lamington,
Symington, and Biggar. Its length northward is
about 8 miles, and its average breadth is about 4
miles. A contiguous tract of the old parish of Kil-
bucho in Peebles-shire was annexed to it in 1794,
but is not accredited to it in the Census returns.
The Clyde traces the boundary with Symington.
The low tract thence to the head-streams of Biggar
Water forms the mutual border with Biggar. A
lofty water-shed, part of the backbone of the South-
ern Highlands of Scotland, forms most of the bound-
ary with Peebles - shire and with Crawford. A
stream, fed by many head-rills among the moun-
tains, and bearing the name of Culter Water, tra-
verses the centre of the parish northward to the
Clyde. The northern district varies in character
between vale and plain, is partly level and partly
undulating, has a fertile soil, in good cultivation,
and presents to a spectator on any of the neighbour-
ing heights a scene of fine soft beauty. The other
districts display much variety of upland. " A long
range of green hills, partly planted and parked,
rises abruptly from the vale. These as they recede
southward increase into mountains covered with
heath, the chief of which is the Fell, ascertained by
a late measurement to be 2,330 feet above the level
of the sea, thus overtopping the neighbouring hill of
Tinto by 94 feet. But neither is this mountainous
district without its peculiar beauty. There is no
sweeter glen than that of Culter Water. So far as
Birthwood, two miles upward, it is partially culti-
vated and wooded. Be3'ond this it narrows, afford-
ing little more than room for the stream, which here
has its linns, with their necessary accompaniments
of ' rock and roar,' to captivate the admirer of wild
and romantic beauty. The hills which border on
the arable part of the parish range from south-west
to north-east ; but in the higher district their range
is exceedingly varied. Sometimes they are lumpish
and detached, and sometimes they run in chains,
lying in all possible directions." [New Statistical
Account.] About one third of the parish is either
regularly or occasionally in tillage ; and upwards of
400 acres are under wood. There are seven or
eight landowners, — most of them resident. The
total yearly value of raw produce was estimated in
1835 at £10,474. The assessed property in 1860 was
£6,278. The chief antiquities are round mounds or
moats, which seem to have been used by the abori-
ginal inhabitants as places of security; and the
most remarkable one of them is situated in a moss.
The parish is traversed by the road from Edinburgh
to Dumfries. The village of Culter stands on that
road, and on Culter Water, nearly 3 miles south-
west of Biggar, and 17 west by south of Peebles.
It is pleasantly situated, and consists principally of
neat houses, embowered among shrubs and trees.
OULTEE.
337
CUMBERNAULD.
and scattered along the stream. Population ol' the
village in 1851, 197. Population of the parish in
1831, 497; in 1861, 665. Houses, 125.
This parish, formerly a rectory, is in the presby-
tery of Biggar, and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale.
Patrons, Baillio of Lamington, and Dickson of Kil-
bucho. Stipend, £217 3s. 9d.; glebe, £30 12s.
Schoolmaster's salary, £45, with £20 fees. The
parish church was built in 1810, and contains 350
sittings. There is a Free church : attendance, 280 ;
sum raised, in 1865, £179 Is. 10d.
CULTER, Aberdeenshire. See Petercultee.
CULTER (The), a stream in Aberdeenshire,
which takes its rise from a lake in the parish of
Skene, and, after receiving several smaller streams,
falls into the Dee, about 8 miles above Aberdeen,
near the church of Peterculter.
CULTS, a parish in the centre of Fifeshire. It
contains the post-office village of Pitlessie, and the
villages of Crossgates, Cults-mill, Hospital-mill, and
Walton. It is bounded by Collessie, Monimail,
Cupar, Ceres, and Kettle. Its length northward is
2J miles; and its breadth is 1J mile. The river
Eden traces the northern boundary. The general
surface is flat, declining from the south — where
there are a few hills — to the Eden. The eastern
part is well wooded. The soil is light, and in some
places— particularly on the banks of the Eden —
gravelly ; but towards the south it is a strong clay.
Only about 140 acres are waste land or hill pasture,
and even these are reclaimable. The Earl of Glas-
gow is the principal landowner ; and there are two
others. Crawfurd Castle, erected in 1813 by Lady
Mary Lindsay Crawfurd, and now the property of
the Earl of Glasgow, is a magnificent Gothic edifice.
There are extensive limestone quarries, and a num-
ber of good sandstone quarries. Coal was at one
time extensively mined. The annual value of raw
produce was estimated in 1838 at £17,540. There
are in the parish a spinning-mill, several meal-mills,
and two saw-mills. Many of the parishioners are
linen-weavers. The parish is traversed by the road
from Cupar to Leslie, and enjoys ready access to
both northward forks of the North British railway.
Population in 1831, 903; in 1861, 800. Houses,
188. Assessed property in 1843, £3,207 19s. 5d.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the pres-
bytery of Cupar, and synod of Fife. Patron, the
United College of St. Andrews. Stipend, £162 5s.
7d. ; glebe, £11. Schoolmaster's salary now is £60,
with £25 fees. The parish church was built in
1793, and enlarged in 1835, and contains 430 sit-
tings. There is a Free church for Cults and Kettle :
attendance, 170 ; total sum raised in 1865, £162
Is. 7d. There is an United Presbyterian church
in Pitlessie, with an attendance of 180. There is a
Free church school at Pitlessie. Sir David WilMe,
the celebrated painter, was a native of Cults, of
which his father was minister. The noble family of
Lindsay-Crawford were connected for five centuries
with this parish, and with the neighbouring one of
Ceres, in which they had a seat. See Ceres. Their
Fifeshire property was obtained, in the 14th century,
from the Keiths, in exchange for Dunnottar Castle.
The earldom of Crawford was created in 1398, and
that of Lindsay in 1633. George, the twenty-second
Earl of Crawfurd, and sixth earl of Lindsay, died in
1808 ; and Lady Mary Lindsay Crawford, his sister
and heiress, and the last member in the direct line
of the family, died in 1833. Her remains, and those
of her brother, repose in a mausoleum on Walton
hill. The earldom of Crawford, with precedence of
1398, was adjudged by the House of Lords in 1848
to James Lindsay, seventh Earl of Balearres. The
earldom of Lindsay continues dormant.
I.
CULTS-MILL, a village in the parish of Cults,
Fifeshire.
CULZEAN CASTLE. See Colzean Casti.e.
CUMBERNAULD, a parish, containing a small
post-town of its own name, also the village of Oon-
dorat, and the station of Croy, in the detached dis-
trict of Dumbartonshire. It is bounded on the west
by the parish of Kirkintilloch, and on other sides bv
the counties of Stirling and Lanark. Its length
westward is about 8 miles; its breadth is from 3 to
4 miles; and its area is about 9,146 acres. The
Kelvin traces part of the northern boundary, and
the Luggie part of the southern boundary; but both
are here inconsiderable streams. The surface is
beautifully diversified with small hills and fertile
dales. The highest part is called Fannyside moor,
producing nothing but heath and furze. On the
south-east side of this moor are two small lochlets ;
and there once were others, which have been drained.
The remainder of the parish is mostly arable, with
a deep clay soil, and tolerably fertile. Lime, coal,
ironstone, and freestone are extensively worked.
There are about fifty landowners. Some traces of
Antoninus' wall occur along the northern border,
and vestiges of a Roman road in the moss of Fanny-
side. See Antoninus' Wall and Castlecary. The
Forth and Clyde canal traverses the northern bor-
der. The new road from Falkirk to Glasgow cuts
the parish transversely. The Edinburgh and Glas-
gow railway goes through the interior to the south
of the canal, and has one station at Croy, and ano-
ther immediately beyond the parochial boundary at
Castlecary. The Greenhill fork of the Caledonian
railway, connecting the Scottish Central with the
Caledonian main trunk, goes south - westward
through the interior, and had? formerly a station for
Cumbernauld. Population in 1831, 3,080; in 1861,
3,513. Houses, 551. Assessed property in 1860,
£15,204.
This parish is in the presbytery of Glasgow,
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, J.
Fleming of Cumbernauld. Stipend, £264 3s. 2d.;
glebe, £17 10s. Unappropriated teinds, £694 lis.
lOd. Schoolmaster's salary, £40, with £26 fees.
Cumbernauld parish was originally part of Kirkin-
tilloch, but was constituted a separate parish in
1649, under the name of Easter Leinzie or Lenyie,
while Kirkintilloch was called Wester Leinzie.
The barony of Castlecary belonging to the parish
of Falkirk was annexed quoad sacra in 1725. The
parish church is an old building, repaired in 1810,
and containing about 660 sittings. Here is a Free
church which belonged to the Original Secession,
then to the Establishment, and is still called the
East church. Its income in 1865 amounted to
£80 5s. lOAd. There is an United Presbyterian
church, with an attendance of 150. There are in
the parish five non-parochial schools, a subscrip-
tion library, and a savings' bank.
A part of the ancient Caledonian forest flourished
till a comparatively late date in the district of Cum-
bernauld; and here roamed the last unpreserved
specimens of the Caledonian ox. Professor Low
says, — " John Leslie, bishop of Ross, who wrote in
1598, states that the wild ox — Bos syhestris — was
found in the woods of Scotland; that it was of a
white colour, had a thick mane resembling a lion's;
that it was wild and savage, and, when irritated,
rushed upon the hunters, overthrew the horses, and
dispersed the attacks of the fiercest dogs. He says
that it had formerly abounded in the Sylva Cale-
donia, but was then only to be found at Stirling,
Cumbernauld, and Kincardine. Hector Boece, in
his History and Chronicles of Scotland, bears testi-
mony to the like effect: — 'At this toun — namelv
CUMBRAY.
338
CUMBRAY.
Stirling — began the gret wod of Caledon. This
wod of Caledon ran fra Striveling throw Menteith
and Stratherne to Atholl and Lochquabir, as Ptolome
writtis in his first table. In this wod wes sum time
quhit bullis, with crisp and eurland mane, like feirs
lionis, and thoucht thay semit meek and tame in
the remanent figure of thair bodyis thay wer mair
wild than ony uthir beiztis, and had sieh hatrent
aganis the societe and cumpany of men, that they
come nevir in the wodis nor lesuris quhair thay fand
ony feit or haind thairof, and moy dayis eftir, thay
eit nooht of the herbis that wer twichit or handillitt
be men. Their bullis were sa wild that thay were
nevir tane but slight and crafty laubour, and sa im-
patient that, eftir thair taking, thay deit for import-
able doloure. Als sone as ony man invadit thir
bullis, thay ruschit with so terrible preis on him,
that thay dang him to the eord, takand na feir of
houndis, scharp lancis, nor uthir maist penitrive
wapintris. And thoucht thir bullis wer bred in
sindry boundis of the Caledon wod, now, be conti-
newal hunting and lust of insolent men, thay ar
destroyit in all party of Scotland and nane of thaim
left bot allanerlie in Cumamald.' " Here, however,
they were also subjected to persecution; and " in a
remarkable document written in 1570-71, the writer,
describing the aggressions of the King's party, com-
plains of the destruction of the deer in the forest of
Cumbernauld, ' and the quhit ky and bullis of the
said forrest, to the gryt destructione of polecie, and
hinder of the commonweil. For that kynd of ky
and bullis hes bein keipit thir money zeiris in the
said forest ; and the like was not mantenit in ony
uther partis of the He of Albion.' "
The Town of Cumbernauld stands nearly in the
centre of the parish of Cumbernauld, and on the
road from Falkirk to Glasgow, 9 miles south-west
of Falkirk, 13 north-west of Glasgow, and 13 south
of Stirling. It occupies a pleasant site in a valley,
sheltered and adorned on the south and east by the
pleasure grounds of Cumbernauld House, the Scot-
tish seat of Lord Elphinstone. It has not an urban
appearance, yet looks very picturesque. At the
east end of it, on the public road, stands the Spur,
a very neat and commodious inn. Many of the in-
habitants are employed in weaving for the Glasgow
manufacturers. The place was erected into a burgh
of barony in 1649. A weekly market was for some
time held in it, but has gone into disuse. A cattle
market, at which a considerable business is sometimes
done, is held on the second Thursday of May; and
a fair, of no consequence to business, is held on the
first Tuesday of August. Population, 1,561.
CUMBRAY, an insular parish, containing the
post town of Millport and the village of Newton, in
Buteshire. It comprises the islands of Big Cnm-
bray and Little Cumbray. These lie between the
island of Bute and the coast of Ayrshire ; and, in a
general view, they are two oblongs, on a line with
each other, and parallel to both Bute and the main-
land. Big Cumbray is 3 miles east of Kingarth in
Bute, and 1J mile west of the parish of Largs; and
Little Cumbray is less than 2 miles east of the
south-eastern extremity of Bute, and about § of a
mile south of the southern extremity of Big Cum-
bray. The total parochial area is about 5,120 acres,
— of which about 3,000 are arable, and about 120
are under wood. The average rent of the arable
land is from 15s. to 20s. per acre; but that of the
rest i3 not more than from 2s. to 3s. The land-
owners are the Earl of Glasgow and the Marquis of
Bute. The total yearly value of raw produce was
estimated in 1840 at £5,846. Assessed property in
1860, £6,050. Population in 1831, 894; in 1861,
1,256. Houses, 207. The population in the sum-
mer season, however, in consequence of the influx
of strangers for rusticating and sea-bathing, is very
much greater.
This parish is in the presbytery of Greenock and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Earl of
Glasgow. Stipend, £159 4s. 8d.; glebe, £20 10s.
Schoolmaster's salary, £45, with fees. The parish
church originally stood at Kirktown, a quondam
village, now quite extinct, about J a mile from Mill-
port, and was rebuilt there in 1802, with 380 sit-
tings. But this being too small for the rapidly in-
creasing population, a new church, of elegant form,
with a handsome tower in front, and containing up-
wards of 750 sittings, was built in 1837, on a rising-
ground, immediately behind Millport. There is a
Free church, whose receipts in 1865 amounted to
£462 19s. 5fd. There is an Episcopalian church,
called St. Andrew's chapel. There is likewise an
Episcopalian Collegiate church, built in 1851, situ-
ated near the Priory, a seat of the Earl of Glasgow,
and founded for a provost, a canon, and five hono-
rary canons. There is also a Baptist place of wor-
ship. There are a Free church school, an Episco-
palian school, and two schools for females. See
Millport.
CUMBRAY (Big), the greater of the two islands
of the parish of Cumbray. Its length, south-south-
eastward, is about 3i miles ; its breadth is about 2
miles; and its circumference is between 11 and
12 miles. Its immediate sea-board is a low fiat
beach; its ground thence is a periphery of steep
banks, appearing at a little distance as if rising
abruptly from the sea; and its interior is a congeries
of hills, ascending gradually to a culmen of about
450 feet above sea-level, with a backbone called the
Shoughends extending nearly from end to end of
the island, and commanding a gorgeous panoramic
view of the frith and its screens, from Ailsa and
Kintyre to Cowal and the Clough. Two lochlets
lie in a hollow contiguous to the very culmen, and
send off thence a rivulet, large enough, with the
aid of damming, to drive a corn-mill. The soil
varies from fertile loam on the low grounds to thin
moorish gravel on the hills. The whole island
corresponds in geological structure to the old red
sandstone district of Bute, and is a connecting link
between that district and the adjacent mainland;
and in a scientific view, it is chiefly interesting for
the enormous trap-dykes with which it is traversed.
" The most remarkable of these," says the New
Statistical Account, " are two on the east side of the
island, running nearly parallel, and from five to six
hundred yards distant from each other. The one to
the north-east measures upwards of 40 feet in height,
nearly 100 in length, and in mean thickness from
ten to twelve feet. The one to the southward is
upwards of 200 feet in length, from 12 to 15 in
thickness, and from 70 to 80 feet in height; and
when viewed in a certain direction, exhibits the dis
tant resemblance of a lion couching; hence it is
sometimes called The Lion." These dykes are of a
highly crystalline structure, and have withstood the
effects of the atmosphere and of the sea ; whilst the
red sandstone on both sides of them, being more
easily decomposed, has been wasted away. The
local name of these dykes is Rippel walls. They
re-appear in Ayrshire, and traverse that county and
the whole of the neighbouring parts of Galloway.
Big Cumbray is very interesting to the geologist
and the botanist ; and it would seem from the follow-
ing curious extract from the minutes of the Privy-
council of Scotland, to have been at one time
famous for its breed of hawks: " February 2d, 1609,
— Sir William Stewart, capt. of Dumbartane castle,
complains ' That Robert Huntar of Huntarston, and
CUMBRAY.
;;:;'.>
CUMMERTREES.
Thomas Boyd, provest of Irwyn, had gone to the
Isle of Coinra, with convocation of the leidges, and
tane away all the hawks thereon.' The lords of
secret council declare, ' That all the hanks quhilk
bred on ye said ile do propirly belong to the king,
and ocht to be forth cumand to his majeste, and that
the capitane of Dumbartane castle intromet thare-
with yeirlie, and deliver the same to his majeste,
and discharges the said Robert Huntar, and all
vtheris, from middling tharewith.' "
About the beginning of last century, according to
the tradition of the island, there was a family of the
name of Montgomery, who then possessed the greater
part of Big Cumbray now belonging to Lord Glasgow,
and had a mansion-house at Billikellet. Among the
last of this family was Dame Margaret Montgomery,
joint-patroness of the kirk, who, being on horseback
at the green of the Largs, is said to have been
thrown off amidst a crowd of people; but, being a
woman of high spirit, she pursued the horse, and
received a stroke of his foot, which proved instantly
fatal. "The arms of this family" — it is stated in
the Old Statistical Account — " are upon the end of
the kirk, and were lately to be seen on a part of the
ruins of Billikellet. About a quarter of a mile from
Billikellet, there is a large stone set up on end:
about 6 feet of it is above the ground. It appears
to have been the rude monument of some ancient
hero. There is also a place which the inhabitants
point out as having been a Danish camp, though no
vestiges of it now remain."
CUMBRAY (Little), the smaller of the two
islands of the parish of Cumbray. It is about a
mile in length, and half-a-mile in breadth; and is
separated from the mainland of Ayrshire by a sound
of about 3 miles in breadth. It lies, like the larger-
island, in the parallel direction to Bute. The strata
of the rock of which it is composed are distinctly
marked. When viewed at a distance, they seem to
lie nearly horizontal ; but, upon a nearer approach,
they appear to incline to an angle of some eleva-
tion. They begin from the water's edge, receding
and rising one above another to the height of 650
feet, like the steps of stairs. Upon the south side
of the island are two dwelling-houses, and an old
square tower. Concerning the antiquity of this
tower, nothing can now be learned ; and no date or
inscription, from which it might be ascertained, has
ever been discovered. It seems to have been a
place of some strength, and is surrounded by a
rampart and a fosse, over which there has been a
drawbridge. It was surprised and burned by the
troops of Oliver Cromwell. The island was then
in the possession of the family of Eglinton, in which
it has continued ever since. There are still the
ruins of a very ancient chapel here, which is said to
have been dedicated to St. Vey, who lies interred
near it: and which was probably a dependency of
the celebrated monastery of Ieolmkill. — Upon the
highest part of this island, a lighthouse was erected,
about the year 1750, which proved of great benefit
to the trade ; but, from its too lofty situation, it was
often so involved in clouds as not to be perceptible,
or but seen very dimly. The commissioners there-
fore judged it necessaiy to erect another, in 1757,
upon a lower station, with a reflecting lamp, which
is not liable to the inconvenience attending the
former, and affords a more certain direction to
vessels navigating the frith in the night time. This
lighthouse is in N. lat. 55° 43', and W. long. 4° 55'.
The height of the building is 28 feet, and of the
lantern 106 feet above high water. It shows a
fixed light, to the distance of 15 miles in clear wea-
ther. Population of the island in 1831, 17; in 1851,
9. Houses, 2.
CUMBRIA, an ancient British principality, which
existed till the beginning of the tenth century, and
comprehended Strathclyde, Galloway, Kyle, Carrick,
and Cunningham, besides the ulterior parts of the
large archbishopric of Glasgow, which extended
so far as through the greater part of Cumberland.
Part of it was at last subdued by the English, who,
in order to attach the Scottish king to their inter-
est, made a present of it to Malcolm, prince of Scot-
land, to be held as a fief depending oil the crown of
England; and in 975, the remaining parts were
subdued by the Scots. The name of the people is
still preserved not only in Cumberland, but in the
islands of Cumbray and in many places of Clydes-
dale. See historical section of Gexekal Introduc-
tion".
CUMINESTOWN, a post-office village in the
parish of Monquhitter, Aberdeenshire. It stands on
the road from Ellon to Banff, about 6 miles north-
west of New Deer. It was founded in 1763 by Cumine
of Auchry. Here is an Episcopalian chapel; and
in the immediate vicinity is the parish church.
Fairs are held on the day in February before Fyvie,
on the Thursday after the 27th of April, on the day
in June before Turriff Saturday market, on the day
in August before Mintlaw, on the day in October
before Turriff Wednesday market, and on the
day in December after Turriff. Population iu
1861, 459.
CUMLODDEN, a recently constituted parish in
the Inverary district of Argyleshire. It was formed
in 1853, out of the eastern part of the parish of
Glassary and a contiguous portion of the parish of
Inverary. It lies on the western sea-board of Loch
Fyne. Its post town is Inverary. It is in the
presbytery of Inverary and synod of Argyle.
Patrons, the Duke of Argyle and Sir A. J. Campbell,
Bart. The church was built in 1841, by the Church-
extension Committee of the General Assembly,
aided by the Duke of Argyle and Sir A. Campbell.
Sittings, 300. There is an Assembly's school.
CUMMERTREES, a parish, containing a post-
office village of its own name, and the villages of
Powfoot and Kelhead, in the district of Annandale,
Dumfries-shire. It is bounded, on the south, by
the Solway frith, and on other sides by the parishes
of Ruthwell, Dalton, St. Mungo, Hoddam, and
Annan. With the exception of two considerable
projections on the east, and three or four inconsider-
able ones on the west, it has nearly the form of a
regular parallelogram ; its length being from north
to south, and its breadth from east to west. It
measures diagonally about 5J or nearly 6 miles,
lengthways 5 miles, and at one point, from Flosh.
on the west to an angle eastward of Spittle-ridding-
hill, 4J miles in breadth. Its surface is, for the
most part, nearly flat, rising with a slight inclina-
tion from the Solway towards the north. The
highest elevation is a hill, on which stands the
Tower of Repentance, about § of a mile from its
northern boundary, and scarcely 200 feet above sea-
level. The soil, towards the north, is a loam above
freestone ; in some of the central parts, is a loam
above limestone, remarkably rich and fertile; along
the coast, is sandy; in many parts, is a thin wet
clay over hard till, requiring much manuring and
cultivation ; and in some, is an improved and
meadowy bog, formerly flowmoss, but recently re-
claimed at great expense and with much labour.
Its coast-line is flat, uninteresting, and indented
only with a small bay called Queensberiy, in which
vessels of light burden can take shelter from north
and north-west winds. Into this bay, overlooked
by the small village and sea-bathing quarters of
Powfoot, and situated a little to the eastward of the
CUMMERTREES.
340
CUMNOCK.
middle of the southern boundary line, and about 3
miles westward of the embouchure of the river
Annan, a small stream, called the Pow or the Cum-
mertrees Pow, debouches, after traversing the parish
south-eastward from Flosh. Over a distance of 2i
miles, the Annan washes the northern limits of the
parish, dividing them from those of St. Mungo and
Hoddam, and here produces salmon, salmon-trouts,
and a species of small fish called hidings. The
last of these are about the size of good bum-trout,
are of two kinds, red and white, and are sometimes
caught in large quantities. The Solway frith sud-
denly widens, on the Cumberland side, opposite
the south-east angle of Cummertrees, and becomes
7 miles broad ; but, at low water, or during the hours
of its recess, forms one Sahara-like waste of level
and naked sand, intersected by forking branches —
known as the Scotch and the English channels — of
the united streams of the Annan, the Sark, the Esk,
and the Eden. Here the Solway tide rolls impetu-
ously forward with its celebrated wall of waters, —
tumbling headlong at the speed of 8 or 10 miles in
the hour, — hoarsely roaring with a voice which is
heard over all the parish, and, at times, 12 or 15
miles farther to the north, — and whirling aloft a
banner of spray which glitters and undulates in the
breeze to announce the march of the invincible in-
vasion of waters. But the Solway is enriching to
the inhabitants, both by its raising the temperature
higher than in the parishes inland, and by its fur-
nishing large supplies of flounders and cod, and oc-
casional takes of soles and turbot. See Solway
Frith. A mineral spring near Cummertrees-mill,
at the north-west angle of the parish, is sometimes,
for its medicinal properties, recommended by physi-
cians. Nearly 1,300 acres of the parish, or about
one-fifth of its area, is covered with plantation. The
climate, though humid and changeable, is remark-
ably salubrious. Limestone is abundant, about 30
feet in thickness, and is so rich as to yield 96 per
cent, of carbonate of lime. There are extensive
lime-works at Kelhead. Sandstone abounds and is
quarried. The total yearly value of raw produce
was estimated in 1834 at £23,812. The assessed
property in 1860 was £6,839. The Marquis of
Queensberry is the proprietor of about five-sixths of
the parish; and has here a beautiful mansion,
called Kinmount, which was built at the expense
of £40,000. The parish is traversed by the Glasgow
and South-western railway, and has a station on it;
and is traversed also by all the roads from Annan
to Nithsdale and to Lochmaben. The village of
Cummertrees stands on the low road from Annan to
Dumfries, about 4 miles west of Annan, and is one
of the most beautiful in Dumfries-shire. Population
of the parish in 1831, 1,407; in 1861, 1,230.
Houses, 214.
Hoddam castle, situated nearly half-way between
the river Annan and the Tower of Repentance, was
built in the 15th century by Lord Hemes, from the
stones of an ancient chapel; and stands on a site
commanding one of the most beautiful views in
Annandale. It is remarkable chiefly for its thick-
ness of wall, and consequent strength; and, greatly
improved with repairs and with additional buildings,
is maintained in as comely a state as any edifice of
its class in Scotland. The old castle is said to have
been inhabited about the beginning of the 14th cen-
tury by a branch of the family of Eobert Bruce, and
to have been demolished some time after by a border
foray. The family of Hemes was very powerful, and
possessed a vast extent of country. About the year
1627, the barony of Hoddam was acquired from the
last Lord Herries, by Sir Richard Murray, of Cock-
pool; which family being afterwards created Earls
of Annandale, the estate stood vested in John, Earl
of Annandale, in 1637. By the Earl of Annandale
the estate was conveyed to David, Earl of Southesk,
about the year 1653; and, in 1690, Charles, Earl of
Southesk, sold the barony and castle to John Sharpe,
Esq., in whose family it has continued ever since.
G-rose has preserved two views of this castle. In
the walls about it are divers Roman altars and in-
scriptions which were discovered at the station at
Bin-ens, in the parish of Middlebie. On the hill for-
merly mentioned, and south of Hoddam castle,
stands the erection — remarkable alike in name, in
structure, and in situation — called the Tower of Re-
pentance. This building is square, 25 feet high,
extraordinarily thick in its walls, and commands a
view, on all sides, over a distance of at least 30
miles. On its top is an arena where, evidently,
watch-fires formerly burned, announcing to the
inhabitants of the far-stretching plain which it
overlooks any menacing movements which, previous
to the union of the crowns of Scotland and England,
occurred on the English side of the border. Various
traditions are afloat respecting the origin of its
name, and the motives for erecting it ; the chief of
which is, that Lord Hemes, returning from a
murderous foray in Cumberland, and, after having
massacred a numerous body of prisoners, and
thrown them into the sea, built it, to appease his
conscience, and conciliate his diocesan superior, the
bishop of Glasgow. — On the farm of Hurkledale, in
this parish, there was discovered, in 1833, a number
of ancient silver coins, much decayed, but supposed
to be of Alexander III. of Scotland, and Edward I.
of England.
This parish is in the presbytery of Annan, and
synod of Dumfries. Patron, the Crown. In its
present form, it comprehends, in addition to the
original parish, the chaplainry of Trailtrow, which
was annexed to it in 1609. The parochial church
is one of those which Robert de Bruce, in the 12th
century, when, in an age of superstitious liberality
and popish ostentation, he wished to display his
munificence, conferred on the monks of Giseburn:
and after, upon the abolition of episoopaey, it ceased
to be controlled by the bishop of Glasgow, it re-
verted, as to its patronage, to the Crown. The
chapel of Trailtrow stood upon the eminence which
is now surmounted by the Tower of Repentance.
Minister's stipend, £158 6s. 7d.; glebe, £18. The
church has often been rebuilt and enlarged, and
contains about 450 sittings. Schoolmaster's salary,
£55, with about £30 fees. There are two non-
parochial schools, — one of them endowed.
CUMMINGSTON, or Port-Cujiming, a village in
the parish of Duffus, Morayshire. It is situated a
little east of Burghead, and is a straggling dirty
place. Population in 1831, 197; in 1851, 155.
CUMMIN'S CAMP. See Bourtie.
CUMMIN'S TOWER. See Blair-Athole.
CUMMINSTOWN. See Ccminestown.
CUMNOCK, a post-town in the parish of Old
Cumnock, Ayrshire. It stands on the road from
Kilmarnock to Dumfries, adjacent tc the Glasgow
and South-western railway, at the confluence of
Glasnock Water with the Lugar, 6J miles south-
east of Mauchline, 10J south-west of Muirkirk, and
16 east of Ayr. Its site is a sheltered hollow, com-
pletely surrounded by pleasant braes. " The name
of Cumnock," says the author of 'Caledonia,' "is
derived from the British cym, a hollow or valley, and
cnoc, a bill, which was usually pronounced ' Cum-
nock.' The British cym, in the prefix of the name,
applies exactly to the hollow or valley in which the
church and village stand; but whether the cnoc, in
the termination of the name, applies to the small
CUMNOCK.
341
CUMNOCK.
hill at the village, or to some other hill in the
vicinity, is not quite certain."
The most conspicuous part of the town is a kind
of square, formerly a burying-ground, but now the
market-place, well edificed, and of spruce appear-
ance. There are likewise three pretty long streets,
containing many good houses; but the other
thoroughfares, with slight exceptions, are narrow
lanes, irregularly built. The town, in general,
looks clean, agreeable, and prosperous; it has, of
late years, undergone considerable re-edifications
and extensions; it contains pleasant intermixtures
of trees and gardens; and it blends altogether with
the picturesque dell of the Lugar and the beautiful
woodlands of its higher environs into one fine
general landscape. The parish church stands in
the centre of the square. The viaduct of the Glas-
gow and South-western railway across the Lugar,
about a quarter of a mile above the town, " thread-
ing its airy way in elegance and daring through
the foliage of the trees that fringe the high pre-
cipitous banks of the water," is a magnificent and
romantic object as seen from the vicinity, and com-
mands in its turn not a few features of interesting
scenery. The bridge is 170 feet high, and has four-
teen arches, — nine of them being of 50 feet span,
and five of 30. On the west side are five dry arches,
of unequal height, to the edge of the water-course ;
in the centre are three arches of maximum height
over the river ; and on the east side, are six other
arches, diminishing in height to the end.
The town contains good shops in all departments.
It is the seat of an extensive, multifarious, retail
traffic; and has of late years experienced much in-
crease of trade from the opening of the railway and
the establishment of iron works in its vicinity. Its
other chief means of subsistence are weaving, which,
when trade is good, keeps 120 looms at work; hand-
sewing, which is a common employment with both
adult and young females; the manufacture of thrash-
ing-mills, which are in high esteem throughout the
west of Scotland, and are, in considerable numbers,
exported to Ireland; a pottery, which, from clay of
the best quality found in the parish, produces a
superior brown -ware; and the manufacture of
wooden 6nuff-boxes, which, throughout Scotland,
have, for their inimitable beauty, rendered Cumnock
not a little celebrious. This last trade, however,
has both changed its character, and in a main de-
gree left the town. Its first feature was a delicate
construction of the snuff-box hinge; and this went
on improving till a very elegant article was pro-
duced. But ornamental painting and other tasteful
features eventually followed, in such a manner
as to command great attention; and then snuff-
boxes came to be only one of many articles of manu-
facture, comprising small boxes of every kind, cigar-
cases, fire-screens, buttons, &e., painted in great
variety of styles, cheeked into tartans, or orna-
mented with devices. And even while the snuff-
box alone was predominant, the value of it fell im-
mensely off. " A few years ago," said the New
Statistical Account in 1837, " a solid foot of wood,
that cost only 3s., could he manufactured into boxes
worth £100 sterling, and then the workmanship in-
creased the original value of the wood nearly 700
times ; but at present a solid foot of wood, will only
3'ield, in finished boxes, about £9 sterling."
Cumnock was made a burgh of barony'in 1509 by
James IV. Sheriff-courts are held in it four times
a -year. Justice -of- peace courts are held in it
for eight parishes. It has offices of the Bank of
Scotland, the Clydesdale Bank, the Royal Bank,
a district savings' bank, and ten insurance-offices,
and a gas-light company. Public coaches run to
Ayr; and ample communication to the north and
south is enjoyed by railway. The principal inn is
the Dumfries Arms. Fairs are held for general
business on every Thursday of November, December,
January, and February ; for cattle and horses on the
Thursday after Candlemas, old style ; for hiring ser-
vants and for racing, on the Thursday after the 6th
of March ; for cattle, on the Wednesday after the
6th of June ; for cattle and for hiring shearers, on
the Wednesday after the 13th of July; and for fat
stock on the Wednesday after the 27th of October.
Population in 1831, 1,600; in 1861, 2,316. Houses,
32*.
CUMNOCK (New), a parish in the district of
Kyle, forming the south-eastern limb of Ayrshire.
It contains a post-office village of its own name, and
also the villages of Afton-Bridgend, and Pathhead.
It is bounded on the east by Dumfries-shire ; on the
south, by Kirkcudbrightshire ; and on the other
sides, by the parishes of Dalmellington, Ochiltree,
and Old Cumnock. It measures 12 miles in length
from east to west, somewhat more than 8 in breadth,
and about 30,000 acres in area. Its surface is dotted
with hills, and in its southern division, is warted
with mountains. Its highest elevations are Black-
craig, about ^ a mile from its eastern boundary,
rising 1,600 feet above the valley of Nith, and
Black-Larg-hill, on its southern boundary, which
rises 2,890 feet above sea-level. But these eleva-
tions are excelled in interest by the Knipe, to the
south, 1,260, and especially by the Corsancone, 872,
which, owing to its position, commands a beautiful
and extensive view. Indeed the whole southern
division of the parish is lifted upwards by elevations,
Craigdarroch, Saddlehagg, C'optaw- Cairn, Benly-
Cowan-hill, Chang-hill, High-Chang-hill, Enoch-hill,
Blackstone- hill, Craig-hill, and several other heights.
The lowest ground is the valley of the Nith, — a
river which, rising in the south-west extremity of the
parish, intersects it from west to east, flows here
about 500 feet above sea-level, and, on leaving the
parish to irrigate Dumfries-shire, begins to form, in
that county, the district of Nithsdale. The Nith is
here shallow and sluggish, highly tinctured with
moss, and about 15 feet broad. Flowing north-
wards, of local origin, and falling into the Nith, the
small stream called the Afton, forms a beautiful
valley, and is overlooked by richly sylvan banks.
There are, on the northern confines of the parish, 3
small lakes, averaging about i a mile in circumfer-
ence, but abounding in perch, pike, and water-fowl.
Carboniferous limestone occurs hi abundance, lies in
beds 12 feet thick, and is very extensively worked.
Freestone, for the most part of a dingy white colour,
and coarse in the grain, is plenteous. Ironstone is
found in bands and balls. Alternate seams of smith's
coal and cannel coal occur in the eastern district,
and are in considerable request ; the former for mak-
ing gas in Dumfries and Catrine, and the latter for
less chemical purposes, in Ayr, Kilmarnock, and
other places. Plumbago, or black-lead, is found in
the coal-formation, and has, for a considerable period,
been wrought. The total yearly value of raw pro-
duce was estimated in 1838 at £30,873. The assess-
ed property in 1860 was £17,496. There are several
extensive landowners, all non-resident, and several
smaller landowners, resident. The parish is tra-
versed by several provincial roads, by the great road
from Glasgow to Dumfries, and by the Glasgow and
South- western railway ; and it has a station on tire
last. The village of New Cumnock stands on the
Glasgow and Dumfries road, and on Afton Water
near that stream's influx to the Nith, 5J miles south-
east of Cumnock, and 7J west by north of Kirk-
connel. A cattle fair is held on the Thursday he-
CUMNOCK.
342
CUNNINGHAM.
fore Whitsunday. Population of the village in 1851,
160. Population of the parish in 1831,2,184; in
1861, 2,891. Houses, 534.
This parish is in the presbytery of Ayr, and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr. It was disjoined from Old
Cumnock in 1650. Patron, the Marquis of Bute.
Stipend, £194 lis. 8d.; glebe, £24. Schoolmaster's
salary, £55, with ,£36 other emoluments. The parish
church stands between the villages of New Cumnock
and Afton-Bridgend, was built about the year 1833,
and contains about 1,000 sittings. There is a Free
church : attendance, 500 ; receipts in 1865, £258 8s.
6Ad. There is a Reformed Presbyterian meeting-
house, with an attendance of 55. There are eight
non-parochial schools, and a circulating library.
CUMNOCK (Old), a parish containing the post-
town of Cumnock, in the eastern part of Kyle,
Ayrshire It is bounded on the east by Dumfries-
shire, and on other sides by the parishes of New
Cumnock, Ochiltree, Auchinleck, and Muirkirk. Its
length east and west is about 10 miles; and its
average breadth is about two miles. The surface is
in part flat, and in part hilly. The soil in general
is clay upon a strong till; but in some places is bog,
and in the holms is a light and dry mixture of sand
and gravel. A great extent of the landscapes has
a finely cultivated appearance. The river Lugar rang
along the boundary with Auchinleck, drinking up
several rivulets in its course, and eventually empty-
ing itself, near Barskimming, into Ayr water; and
it abounds in trout, and contains some eels. On the
southern confines of the parish are three lakes which
jointly have an area of about 100 acres, and which,
though communicating with one another, discharge
their waters partly south-eastward, through the
rivulet Aith into the Nith, and partly north-west-
ward, through another rivulet into the' Lugar. The
uplands, hilly but not mountainous, though partly
covered with heath, are in general verdant. In the
beds of the rivulets are petrifactions of shells and
fish. In an extensive lime-quarry belonging to the
Marquis of Bute, are beds abounding with a species
of coral. The limestone in this quarry is, in some
places, mixed with shells and spar, takes a beautiful
polish, and is capable of being dressed into a pleas-
ing bluish marble. A vein of lead ore likewise
rans through it, and was found, on trial at the lead-
mines of Wanlockhead, to yield 65 pounds per cwt.
Freestone abounds, is of easy access, and has con-
tributed largely to the walls of neat and comfortable
dwellings. Coal is supposed to be very extensive,
but has been worked chiefly in subordination to the
burning of lime. Black band ironstone also occurs
in considerable quantity. The total yearly value
of raw produce was estimated in 1837 at £20,207.
The assessed property in 1860 was £14,424. The
principal proprietor is the Marquis of Bute and Earl
of Dumfries, who acquires from the parish his title
of Baron. Dumfries-house, the seat of the Marquis,
is situated in the north-west part of the parish,
near the banks of the Lugar, and is surrounded
with a fine demesne which, extending on both sides
of the river, is connected by an elegant new bridge
at the most accessible point from the mansion.
The other mansions in the parish are Garrallan,
Logan, and Glasnock, the last of which, situated on
the stream whence it derives its name, is an elegant
edifice, built of white freestone. Within the
demesne of Dumfries-house stand the rains of Ter-
ringzean castle. Some traces, in the southern divi-
sion of the parish, exist of an old keep called Bore-
land castle, and also of a Catholic chapel, which
gives to the farm on which it stands the name of
Chapel-house. Hugh Logan, Esq., ' the Laird of
Logan,' and celebrated wit of Ayrshire, was a na-
tive of this parish. Here also, within the precincts
of the burying-ground, are the remains of the
famous Alexander Peden, of covenanting, and, as
the vulgar say, of prophesying memoiy, — remains
which were originally interred in the aisle of Lord
Auchinleck, — which, after forty days, were exhumed
by a body of dragoons, who intended to hang them
up on a gallows, — and which, in yieldance with the
entreaties of the Countess of Dumfries and other
influential personages, were eventually allowed to
rest along with the remains of other martyrs, at the
gallowsfoot of Cumnock. Around the dust of
Peden, as well as on the estate of Logan, and on
a moor which lies along the south-west border of
the parish, is the dust of martyrs of the Scottish
covenant. In the northern vicinity of the town also
is the birth-place of William Murdoch who, though
originally a weaver in Auchinleck, became inti-
mately known by community of genius to the cele-
brated James Watt, and benefited the world as tha
introducer of gas-light. The parish has an abun-
dance of good cross roads and bridges, and is tra-
versed by the Glasgow and Dumfries road, and by
the Glasgow and South-western railway. Popula-
tion in 1831, 2,763; in 1861, 3,721. Houses, 565.
This parish — originally a rectory, afterwards a
prebend of Glasgow, and afterwards a vicarage —
is in the presbj'tery of Ayr, and synod of Glasgow
and Ayr. Patron, the Marquis of Bute. Stipend,
£218 0s. 7d.; glebe, £20. Schoolmaster's salary,
£34 4s. 4Jd., with £65 other emoluments. The
parish-church, built in 1754, and situated in the
town, at a distance of 5^ miles from the most remote
limit of the parish, has from 600 to 700 sittings.
There is a Free church: attendance, 400; sum
raised in 1865, £238 8s. 6d. There is an United
Presbyterian church, with 900 sittings, and an at-
tendance of 600. There are also a Congregational
chapel and a Roman Catholic chapel. There are
seven non-parochial schools.
CUMRUE, a farm, a small lake, and an extinct
hamlet in the south-east end of the parish of Kirk-
michael, Dumfries-shire. The lake has been much
reduced by draining.
CUMSTON. See Twynholm.
CUNIACK, or Cunaig, a lofty, romantic, pecu-
liarly shaped mountain ridge, in the parish of As-
synt, Sutherlandshire. It extends southward from
Unapool to Loch Assynt. Its west side is precipi-
tous and inaccessible.
CUNINGHAR. See Tillicoultry.
GUNNER LAW, a hill on the west border of the
parish of Cambee, Fifeshire. It has a height of
about 650 feet above sea-level, and commands a
very fine prospect.
CUNNINGHAM, the northern district of Ayr-
shire. It is bounded, on the north and north-east,
by Renfrewshire; on the east, by Lanarkshire; on
the south, by Kyle, from which it is separated by
the river Irvine; and on the south-west and the
west, by the frith of Clyde. Its length, south-east-
ward, is about 25 miles; and its breadth, south-
westward, about 13 miles. It comprises the par-
ishes of Ardrossan, Beith, Dairy, Dreghora, part
of Dunlop, Fenwick, Irvine, Kilbimie, West Kil-
bride, Kilmarnock, Kilmaurs, Kilwinning, Largs,
Loudon, Stevenston, and Stewarton. Its surface is
pleasantly diversified with hill and dale, but cannot
be said to have any mountains. It is watered by
numerous streams, the chief of which are the An-
nock, the Caaf, the Garnock, the Irvine, and the
Rye. The chief towns and villages are Ardrossan,
Beith, Dairy, Irvine, Kilwinning, Largs, Saltcoats,
and Stewarton. The whole district abounds with
coal, limestone, and freestone. It is, however,
CUNNINGHAM.
343
CUPAR-ANGUS.
mostly in the hands of great proprietors, and is, of
consequence, ornamented with few seats. Eglinton
castle and Kelburne are the chief.
This district is celebrated for its dairy husbandry,
which has reached greater perfection here than in
any other quarter of Scotland. Full milk cheese
was first begun to be made in the parishes of Beith,
Dunlop, and Stcwarton, soon after the middle of
last century. It was made in the parish of Kilmar-
nock about the year 1756, and became common in
Cunningham by about 1770. Some traditional ac-
counts, however, represent it as of much earlier in-
troduction. See Dunlop. About the year 1760, the
cows in Cunningham were not superior to those now
in Bute, Arran, or Kintyre. They were poor ill-
shaped starvelings, which when fattened did not
weigh more than from 13 to 15 stones, county
weight. But, about 1750, the Earl of Marchmont
purchased from the Bishop of Durham, six cows and
a bull of the Teeswater breed, — all of them flecked
brown and white, and considerably heavier than the
Ayrshire cows at that period. Bruce Campbell,
Esq., of Milnriggs — who was then factor on His
Lordship's estate in Ayrshire — brought some of that
breed to his byres at Sornbeg, and from these many
calws were reared in that part of Ayrshire. John
Dunlop, Esq., about the same time brought some
cows of an improved breed to his estate of Dunlop ;
and the Earls of Loudon and Eglinton, Mr. Orr of
Barrowfield, and others, all procured such cows,
and placed them on their estates in Cunningham.
These were at that time called Dutch cows, and
they were of the same colour as those brought to
Sornbeg. The dairy-breed on the Clyde have the
colour and partly the shape of the Ayrshire breed,
and are upon the whole a handsome species of stock;
but they are too round in the chest, too heavy in
the fore-quarters, and far less capacious in their
hinder parts, than the improved Ayrshire breed.
They are well-fitted for the grazier, but inferior to
the Cunningham breed for milkers.
The district of Cunningham was, until the abo-
lition of feudal jurisdiction, a bailiewick under the
Earl of Eglinton. Many of its leading families, —
such as those of Eglinton, Glencaim, and Loudon, —
took a leading part in the affairs of the kingdom
during its most agitated times. The ancient family
of De Morville, the constables of Scotland, were at
one time proprietors of almost all the district. It
was to Hugh de Morville the church owed the
celebrated abbey of Kilwinning, which was endowed
so amply by him and others of his family as to have
a yearly revenue equal to £20,000 of our present
money. Yet it is singular that there is no certainty
as to their place of residence in this district. Mr.
George Robertson, in his ' Genealogical Account of
the Principal Families in Ayrshire, more particularly
in Cunningham,' gives the names of two places sup-
posed to have been their residence, — Glengarnock
castle, in the parish of Kilbirnie, and Southannan in
Largs, now in Kilbride. Glengarnock appears to
have been one of the most ancient buildings in the
district, and its rains show that it was one of the
most extensive, and far beyond what the proprietor
of the small barony of Glengarnock would have
reared for himself. When
tL The castle-gates were barr'it,
And o'er the gloomy portal arch.
Tuning his footsteps to a march.
The warder kept his guard,1'
he could see from the tower the greater part oi
Cunningham lying below him, and would have a
view of the frith of Clyde, thus overlooking the
movements of foreign as well as internal enemies.
The fact, however, cannot he ascertained with cer-
tainty, and we may place it along with that assertion
which makes Glengarnock the residence of Hardy-
knute. Population of Cunningham in 1831 , 63,453;
in 1861, 95,503. Houses, 10,979.
CUNNING-PARK. See Ayrshire.
CUNNINGSBURGH, a parish, containing a post-
office station of its own name, in Shetland. It com-
prises a part of the mainland, immediately south of
the parish of Lerwick, but is included quoad sacra
in Dunrossness : which see. It was formerly a
vicarage.
CUPAR, the north-western one of the four great
divisions of Fifeshire. It consists principally of the
upper and central parts of the basin of the Eden, and
of the parts of the sea-board of the frith of Tay from
the boundary with Perthshire to a point nearly op-
posite Dundee. Its length, north-eastward, is about
17 J miles ; and its breadth is about 1 0 miles. It com-
prehends the parishes of Balmerino, Kilmany, Logie,
Dairsie, Cupar- Fife, Ceres, Cults, Monimail, Moonzie,
Creich, Flisk, Newburgh, Abdie, Dunbog, Collessie,
Auchtermuchty, Strathmiglo, Falkland, and Kettle,
and parts of the parishes of Abernethy and Am-
gask. Population in 1831, 30,192 ; in 1861, 31,937.
Houses 6,482.
CUPAR-ANGUS, a parish, partly in Forfarshire,
but chiefly in Perthshire. It contains a post-town
of its own name ; and though the greater part of
even this is in Perthshire, yet the other part, having
been the original one, gives the designation of Angus
to the whole. The parish extends about 5 miles
from north-east to-south-west, with a breadth of from
li to 2J miles. It lies in the centre of Strathmore.
But a ridge of some height bisects it lengthwise, is
traversed by the great road from Perth to Aberdeen,
and commands a splendid view of the Sidlaw hills
along the one side of the strath, and of the Grampian
mountains in flanking ranges on the other. The
river Isla traces the north-western boundary, and
is here subject to frequent great freshets. A con-
siderable extent of haugh-ground lies along the
river's bank, and is protected by embankments
The soil in general is a clay loam ; but whereve r
the surface rises into eminences, the soil is gravelly.
Only about 80 acres are under wood. The princi-
pal landowners are Collinswood of Keithick, Kin-
loch of Kinloch, Stewart of Balmerino, and three
others. The parish is impinged upon by the Scottish
Midland railway, and has a station on it at the town.
There were formerly villages at Keithick and Cad-
dam; but they are extinct. There are now the
villages of Balbrogie, Longleys, and Washington.
Population of the entire parish in 1831, 2,615; in
1861, 2,929. Houses, 554. Population of the
Perthshire portion in 1831, 2,309; in 1861, 2,612.
Houses, 499. Assessed property in 1843, £9,324
0s. 9d. ; in 1866, £11,747 12s. 4d.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Meigle, and synod of Angus and Mearns.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £239 4s. 4d. ; glebe,
£25. Unappropriated teinds, £139 4s. School-
master's salary now is £35, with about £70 fees.
The parish church was built in 1681, nearly rebuilt
in 1780, and greatly enlarged in 1831. Sittings.
850. There is a Free church : attendance from 500
to 600 ; receipts in 1865, £281 15s. lOid. There are
likewise an United Presbyterian church, with an at-
tendance of nearly 300 ; an Original Secession
church, with an attendance of 130 ; a Morrisonian
Independent chapel, with an attendance of from 170
to 250 ; and a small Episcopalian chapel. There are
two non-parochial schools, one of them Free church.
The Town op Ccpar- Angus stands near the Isla,
on a small tributary of that river, and on the great
CUPAR-FIFE.
344
CUPAR-FIFE.
road from Perth to Aberdeen, 5 miles south-south-
east of Blairgowrie, 15 north-west of Dundee, and
12§ north-east by north of Perth. The part of it
on the left bank of the rivulet is in Forfarshire ; and
the part on the right bank is in Perthshire. The
town has of late years been much improved, and is
well paved and lighted. There is a town-house and
prison with a steeple. Justice of peace courts and
circuit small debt courts are held here. A principal
employment is the weaving of coarse linen fabrics;
but here, as elsewhere, this yields a scanty subsis-
tence. There is also in the town a considerable tan-
nery. The town has an office of the National Bank,
an office of the Central Bank, an office of the Union
Bank, a savings' bank, and several friendly societies.
A weekly market is held on Thursday ; and fairs
are held on the third Thursday of March, on the
Tuesday before the 26th of May, on the third Wed-
nesday of July, and on the Tuesday before the 22d
of November. Ample communication is enjoyed by
means of the Scottish Midland railway. Con-
tiguous to the town is the site of a Roman camp
said to have been formed by Agricola in his 7th ex-
pedition. On the centre of this camp Malcolm
IV. in 1164, founded and richly endowed an abbey
for Cistertian monks. Its vestiges show that it
must have been a house of considerable magnitude.
In 1561, the revenues of this house were : Money
£1,238 14s. 9d.; wheat 7 ch. 13 bolls 1 fir.; bear
75 ch. 10 bolls 3 fir. J peck; meal 73 ch. 4 bolls
3 fir. 3J pecks ; oats 25 ch. 4 bolls 2 fir. 2 pecks.
The Hays of Errol, next to the Scottish Kings, were
the principal benefactors to this monastery. Its last
abbot was Donald Campbell of the Argyle family.
Upon the distribution made by James VI. of the
lands which came to the Crown on the dissolution
of the religious houses, His Majesty erected this
abbey into a civil lordship, in favour of James
Elphinstone, second son of James, Lord Balmerino,
in 1606; but he dying without issue, in 1669, the
honour descended to the Lord Balmerino who was
attainted in 1745. A corner of one of the abbey
walls still exists, covered with ivy. Population of
the town in 1861, 1,943. Houses, 368.
CUPAR-FIFE, a central parish of Fifeshire. It
contains the village of Glaidney, the post-office vil-
lage of Springfield, and the royal burgh of Cupar-
Fife. It is bounded by Kilmany, Dairsie, Kemback,
Ceres, Cults, Monimail, and Moonzie. It has a very
irregular outline, and measures nearly 5 miles both
in extreme length and in extreme breadth. The
surface is finely undulated, and well-wooded. The
river Eden flows slowly through it from south-west
to north-east, between green and fertile banks of
varied beauty. The town of Cupar, and about two-
thirds of the parish, are on the northern side of the
Eden. The Lady-burn or St. Mary's burn, a small
tributary, flowing from the north-west, after fetch-
ing a circuit through the northern suburbs of the
burgh, joins the Eden to the east. The soil to the
north and east of the burgh is a friable loam on a
gravelly subsoil; to the south and west it is more
inclined to sand. There are quarries of sandstone
and greenstone. The landowners are numerous.
The real rental is about £24,340. There are in the
parish three spinning mills, a foundry, a fulling
i.-iill, two tan works, three breweries, a rope-work,
a brick-work, and several corn, barley, and flour
mills. A principal employment is the weaving
of coarse linens, which employs upwards of 600
iooms. The parish is traversed by the Dundee
fork of the Edinburgh and Northern railway, and
has stations on it at Cupar and Springfield. Popu-
lation in 1831, 6,473; in 1861, 6,750. Houses, 1,171.
Assessed property in 1866, £25,280 6s, 5d.
Kilmaron-House, situated 1J mile north-west of
the burgh, is the finest mansion in the parish. It
is in the castellated style, from a plan by Gillespie.
To the south of Kilmaron, and about a mile south-
west of the town, is the ancient house of Carslogie,
for many generations the family-seat of the Cle-
phanes. This family, in times of feudal strife, were
leagued with the neighbouring ancient family of the
Scotts of Scotstarvet, who inhabited a strong tower
— which is still entire — situated on a lower ridge
of Tarvet hill, about 2 miles south from Carslogie.
On the appearance of an enemy, tradition relates,
horns from the battlements of the castle from which
the hostile force was first descried, announced the
approach of danger, and the quarter from whence it
was advancing; and both families, with their de-
pendents, were instantly under arms for mutual
protection. The family have been in possession,
from time immemorial, of a hand made in exact
imitation of that of a man, and curiously formed of
steel. This is said to have been conferred by one
of the kings of Scotland, along with other more
valuable marks of his favour, on a laird or baron of
Carslogie, who had lost his hand in the service of
his country. When Dr. Campbell wrote the Old
Statistical Account of this parish in 1796, there
still existed, in a field contiguous to the house of
Carslogie, and near to the public road which leads
from Cupar to the west, the stately and venerable
remains of an ash which for several centuries had
retained the name of the Jug tree. The iron jugs,
in which the offenders on the domains of Carslogie
suffered punishment, fell from the hollow body of
this tree, in which they had been infixed, only in
1793. A mound of earth, rising considerably above
the adjoining grounds, and extending a great length
on the north side of the town, is caUed the Mote, or,
as some write it, the Moat-hill. They who use the
latter orthography contend that this rampart is
formed of artificial earth, and that it originally ex-
tended as far as the castle, and was constructed to
defend the town from any sudden attack from the
north, as the river, in some measure, secured it on
the south. There is no doubt, however, that it
ought to be styled the Mote-hill, as it was probably
the place where, in early times, the justiciary of
Fife held his courts, and published his enactments
for the regulation of the country. The Latin name,
by which this hill is sometimes mentioned, seems
to decide the controversy, ' Mons placiti,' which
may be translated ' Statute-hill.'
" The parish of Cupar and the surrounding dis-
trict," says Mr. Leighton, in his 'Fife Illustrated,'
" is rich in localities connected with events, circum-
stances, or individuals never to be forgotten, and
affording subjects of thought and reflection to even
the most ordinary minds. From the top of Tarvet
hill, or, as it is now called, Wemyss-hall hill, these
objects attract our attention in every direction . In
the distant west, at the bottom of the Lomond hills,
we see all that remains of the royal palace of Falk-
land, where so many of Scotland's sovereigns of the
Stewart race sought pleasant retirement from the
cares of governing a turbulent kingdom, or of at-
tempting to reconcile the differences of a still more
turbulent nobility. How often have these grey
walls resounded with music and dancing! How
often been the scene of hospitable feast, and long
protracted, yet merry wassail! Over these fields
which skirt the Eden— then a royal forest- — our an-
cient kings followed the chase with hound and
horn, or flew the hawk at its winged prey. At one
time the only sound heard throughout these forest-
glades was the wild buck's bell, or the call of the
various birds which then freciuented them to their
CUPAR-FIFE.
345
CUPAR-FIFE.
mates ; at another they were the scene of mirth anil
sport. There the proudest names in Scotland's
history followed their prince in peaceful and ani-
mating sport. There beauty took the field, hawk
on arm. and knightly valour bowed subservient to
its influence. But, alas! Falkland palace was not
always a scene of joy; we think on James IV.,
James V., and the beautiful Mary; and we think of
crime, of folly, of misery, captivity, and early death !
Nearer us, in the same direction, appears the manse
of Cults. There the great painter of our age, the
poetic yet graphic Wilkie, was born and spent bis
early years. Amid these gently sloping hills and
sweet valleys, he studied nature, and imbibed that
love of truth and simplicity which he has since, so
beautifully in some instances and so grandly in
others, developed. Still nearer us in the same di-
rection is the ancient tower of Scotstarvet. There
resided Sir John Scott of Scotstarvet, one of the
directors of the Chancery in the reign of Charles I.,
' who was,' says Nisbet, ' a bountiful patron of men
of learning, who came to him from all quarters, so
that his house hecame a kind of college.' Among
others, he encouraged Pont in his survey of the
whole kingdom, gave him great literary assistance,
and was at the expense of the publication; and in
yonder old tower he wrote his curious work, — ' Sir
John Scott of Scotstarvet's Staggering State of
Scots Statesmen.' Along the slope of this hill,
under the Duke of Chatelherault and M. D'Oysel,
lay at one time the army which was intended by
Mary of Guise to crush tie efforts of the reformers.
On the opposite bank were stationed those who had
determined to die rather than that popery should
longer lord it over the consciences of men; and on
this hill, where we now stand, the treaty was sub-
scribed, which, though soon broken through by the
queen-regent, gave time to the reformers, and ulti-
mately led to the establishment of the Presbyterian
religion in Scotland. To the north rises the Mount,
the patrimonial possession of ' Sir David Lindsay of
the Mount, Lord Lyon, king-at-arms,' during the
reign of James V.; and there he wrote those bitter
biting satires which delighted the people, and paved
the way for the Reformation. The house in which
he lived has now disappeared, but the place is still
interesting, and the hill is now crowned with a
monument erected to the memory of the late Earl of
Hopetoun, one of the deliverers of Europe from the
all-grasping power of the late emperor of the French.
Almost immediately below us is the school-hill of
Cupar, a portion of which formed the play-field of
the burgh, and there the dramas of Sir David Lind-
say were exhibited so early as 1535. At a far ear-
lier period, however, when the castle of Cupar was
the residence of Macduff, the lord or Maormore of
Fife, it was the scene of that horrid tragedy, the
murder of his wife and children by Macbeth, which
led to the inveterate hatred of Macduff, and finally
to the establishment of Malcolm Ceanmore on the
throne; and of which the poet has made such a
beautiful use in his play of Macbeth. To the east
upon the sea-coast is the venerable city of St. An-
drews, the seat of an ancient bishopric, and the
earliest seat of learning in Scotland. With how
many great names of Scotland are these hallowed
ruins associated; and how intimately connected is
its history with the early civilization and improve-
ment of our country ! To the south beyond the vale
of Ceres is Craighall, the seat of Sir Thomas Hope,
king's advocate to Charles I., and one of the greatest
lawyers of his time. In Ceres churchyard repose in
peaceful silence many of the proud race of Lindsay of
the Byres, and some of the kindred race of Crawford.
There isi the grave — although the spot is now un-
marked— where rests that rude Lord, who, when the
unfortunate Mary hesitated to sign her abdication,
did not scruple to crush her gentle hand with bis
iron glove, nor to force her by rude speech and still
ruder threats, unwillingly to execute the deed which
deprived her of a crown, and consigned her for the
rest of her life to a prison; and a little to the east
in the same valley lies Pitscottie, the residence of
Lindsay the homely yet picturesque relater of a por-
tion of Scotland's history. In a word, we know no
place more capable of calling up more varied recol-
lections, or of elevating the mind and exciting the
fancy, than the top of Tarvet hill."
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Fife. It comprises the two ancient
parishes of Cupar-Fife and St. Michael of Tarvet,
which were united in 1618. St. Michael's is the
part south of the Eden; though, in consequence
of the course of the river having not long ago been
straightened, it comprehends also a small pendicle
on the north side of the river, near the County-Hall.
The church belonging to it stood on a beautiful spot
which was long designated St. Michael's hill. The
linns of a small chapel, situated near the eastern
boundary of the lands of Kilmaron, were to be seen
near the close of last century. The parochial
church of Cupar, in early times, stood at a consider-
able distance from the town towards the north, on
a rising ground, now known by the name of -the
Old Kirk-yard. The foundations of this ancient
building were removed in 1759; and many human
bones, turned up in the adjoining field by the
plough, were then collected and buried in the earth.
In 1415 this structure had become ruinous, or inca-
pable of accommodating the numbers who resorted
to it. In the course of that year the prior of St.
Andrews, for the better accommodation of the inha-
bitants of the town of Cupar, and that the rites of
religion might be celebrated with a pomp gratifying
to the taste of the age, erected within the royalty a
spacious and magnificent church. This church was
built in the best style of the times, of polished free-
stone, in length 133 feet, by 54 in breadth. The
roof was supported by two rows of arches extending
the whole length of the church. The oak couples
were of a circular form, lined with wood, and
painted in the taste of the times. In 1785, this ex-
tensive building being found to be in a state of total
decay, the heritors of the parish resolved to pull it
down, and to erect on its site a church on a more
convenient plan. This they carried into execution,
at a considerable expense, in 1785. It is to be re-
gretted that the new building was not joined to the
spire of the old church, which still stands. The
vestry or session-house, by intervening between the
church and the spire, gives a detached appearance
to both. The spire has always been considered
handsome, and appears light and elegant when
viewed from the east or west. It was built by the
prior of St. Andrews in 1415, only up to the battle-
ment : all above that was added in the beginning of
the 17th century, by Mr. William Scott, who was for
many years minister of Cupar. The church con-
tains 1,300 sittings. Within it, in a niche in the
west wall, is a monument erected to Sir John Amot
of Fernie, who fell in the last crusade. It presents
the recumbent figure of a knight in armour. In the
same circle is a marble tablet to the memory of
Dr. Campbell, one of the ministers of the parish.
In the churchyard is a plain upright stone, bearing
the following inscription: "Here lies interred the
heads of Laur. Hay, and Andrew Pitulloch, who
suffered martyrdom at Edinburgh, July 13th, 1681.
for adhering to the AVord of God and Scotland's
covenanted work of reformation; and also one of
CUPAR-FIFE.
346
CUPAR-FIFE.
the hands of David Hackstcm of Rathillet, who was
most cruelly murdered at Edinburgh, July 30th,
1680, for the same cause."
The parochial charge is collegiate. The patron
of both charges is the Crown. Each minister has a
stipend of £259 7s. 9d.; and the first has also a
glebe of the yearly value of £21. Unappropriated
teinds, £1,016 7s. A new church, called St.
Michael's, was erected in the burgh in 1837, at an
expense of about £1,800, raised by subscription
shares. It accommodates 810; and public worship
is performed in it by the parish ministers alternately.
There is a Free church, with an attendance of from
800 to 1,000, and receipts in 1865 of £1,003 5s.
There are two United Presbyterian churches, called
respectively Burnside and Boston churches, the one
extensively repaired a number of years ago, and
the other rebuilt in 1850. There is an Episcopalian
chapel, which was built in 1820 at the cost of
.£3,000, and has an endowment from the late Dr.
Bell. There is also a Free Communion Baptist
chapel, with an attendance of 300. . There is no
parochial school. There were, however, two burgh-
schools so early as the reign of Charles I., and these
continued in operation till 1823, under the patron-
age of the magistrates, and salaried out of the burgh
funds. In 1823, they were superseded by an aca-
demy. This was erected by subscription and placed
under the conduct of four teachers, whose salaries
were paid partly by the town, and partly out of the
general subscription fund. The patronage of the
academy was vested in the magistrates and in sub-
scribers to the amount of XI 0, besides certain per-
sons, ex officio; and the whole management was
centred in the general body of the patrons, and their
committee of directors. But in later years an insti-
tution, founded by bequest of the late Dr. Bell on
the Madras system, was first united to the academy,
and afterwards absorbed it. This institution, which
is called the Madras academy, is at present con-
ducted by six male teachers, and one female teacher,
whose salaries vary from £25 to XI 10 a-year. The
appointment of the teachers and the entire manage-
ment of the seminary, are in the hands of Dr. Bell's
trustees. These are the lord-lieutenant of the coun-
ty, the lord-justice-clerk of Scotland, the sheriff of
the county, the provost of the burgh, the dean of the
guildry, and the two established clergymen of
Cupar. The estate of Egmore in Galloway, with
about £400 a-year, and the school fees, which are very
low, supply the funds out of which the teachers'
salaries and other expenses are defrayed. The late
Dr. Gray of Paddington, in the county of Middlesex,
left £500, the interest of which he directed to be ap-
plied in payment of a salary to a female teacher in
Cupar, and the management is vested in the provost,
clergymen, and schoolmaster of the parish for the
time being. The proceeds of this legacy are at
present divided between two female schools in the
town. Beside these and the Madras academy, there
are two adventure schools in the town of Cupar, and
a third in the village of Springfield.
The Town of Cupar-Fife — a royal burgh, a seat of
considerable trade, and the political capital of Fife-
shire — is pleasantly situated nearly in the centre of
the parish of Cupar- Fife, on the north bank of the
Eden, on the great road from Edinburgh to Dundee,
and on the course of the Dundee fork of the Edin-
burgh and Northern railway, 10 miles west of St.
Andrews, 12 south-west of Tayport, 18 north-north-
east of Kirkcaldy, and 32 north-north-east of Edin-
burgh. It contains many new houses, and presents
the appearance of a thriving modern town, well-
built, and cleanly kept. It contains three principal
streets,— the Bonnygate, running east and west;
the Crossgate, running north and south, in a direc-
tion nearly parallel with the Eden ; and St. Cathe-
rine street, which is a continuation of the Bonny-
gate. Several lanes and alleys branch off in various
directions from these main lines; and there is a
large irregular suburb on the north side of St.
Mary's bum ; besides a considerable line of houses
on the Edinburgh road, on the south side of the
Eden. All these suburbs are included within the
parliamentary boundaries of the burgh. The par-
ish-church stands in Kirkgate-street, at the en-
trance of the North road from Ferry bank. St.
Michael's church is at the west end of the Bonny-
gate. The Episcopal chapel is near, or upon, the
site of an ancient monastery. The town-house
stands at the junction of St. Catherine-street and
Crossgate. It is a plain neat building, surmounted
by a cupola and belfry. The corn exchange was
built in 1862, at a cost of £4,000 ; is an elegant edi-
fice in the Gothic style, with a spire 130 feet high;
was designed to serve also as a music hall ; and
contains 46 stalls for market business. The county-
buildings, in St. Catherine-street, present a neat
though plain facade. They contain the county-hall,
sheriff-court room, and offices for the public clerks.
The old county prison stood on the left hand of the
middle bridge crossing the Eden, and on the south
side of the river ; but the new prison, on a greatly
improved plan, occupies a conspicuous site on the
north side of the Dundee road, a little to the north-
east of the town. The railway station is worthy of
the town's importance; and an extraordinary ex-
pense was incurred on this part of the line, to pre-
vent accidents, by lowering the natural level of the
railway, and elevating the public road over it on a
series of high stone arches.
Cupar-Fife, in consequence of being the county
town, is inhabited by numerous practitioners in the
legal courts, members of banking-establishments,
and persons connected with the agricultural inter-
est. It is chiefly distinguished for its trade in
corn, and the mills, brewing, and such establish-
ments dependent on that species of market. There
are, however, several extensive spinning-mills in
the neighbourhood; and there is a considerable
trade in the weaving of coarse linens, and in home-
manufactures, such as leather, candles, and snuff.
Its printing-establishments, too, have been justly
celebrated for the production of some beautiful spe-
cimens of excellent typography, and the publication
of many useful works. Cupar-Fife has been long
known as a leading and important market-town.
There is a weekly corn-market, which is held on
Tuesday, and is well-attended. Fairs for farm-
stock, agricultural implements, domestic utensils,
and miscellaneous matters connected with agricul-
ture, are held on the first Tuesday of every month.
The fair in August is also a hiring fair; and another
hiring fair is held on the 11th of November. The
principal inns are the Tontine, the Royal Inn, and
the Blue Bell. The town has offices of the British
Linen, the Commercial, the National, the Royal, the
City of Glasgow, and the Clydesdale banks, a large
public library, a large museum, a lawyer's library,
a public news room, a mechanics' institute and
reading-room, an alms-house or female asylum, a
total abstinence society, a philharmonic society, a
horticultural society, an agricultural society, various
charitable and religious institutions, a cricket club,
a curling club, and annual games. Three news-
papers are published here, — the Fife Herald every
Thursday, the Fifeshire Journal every Thursday,
and the Saturday Herald every Saturday. The
sheriff and commissary courts for Fifeshire are held
at Cupar-Fife every Tuesday and Thursday during
CUPAR-FIFE.
347
CUPAR-FIFE.
session; and the small debt courts every first and
third Thursday of each month during session, and
every first Thursday during vacation.
The earliest charter of the burgh of Cupar-Fife
was granted by David II., in 13G3, conferring the
privileges of trade upon the burgesses, in like man-
ner as upon the inhabitants of burghs generally.
These privileges were confirmed, and various grants
of lands conferred upon them, by a charter granted
by Robert II., dated Dunfermline, 28th June, 1381;
by a charter of James I., dated at Perth, 28th. Feb-
ruary, 1428-9; by another of the same reign, dated
30th October, 1436; by a charter of King James V.,
dated 13th March, 1518; by an act and warrant of
James VI., dated at Holyrood house, 1573; and by
a charter of feu-farm by King James VI., dated
Edinburgh, 4th June, 1595. The old set of the
burgh consisted of a provost, 3 bailies, a dean-of-
guild, a treasurer, 13 merchant-councillors, a con-
vener, and 7 deacons of trades. It is now governed by
a provost, 3 bailies, and 14 councillors The revenue,
in 1832, was £554 13s. lljd., of which £321 arose
from land-rental, and £120 from feu-duties. The
expenditure in that year was £751 12s. 9d., of which
£223 was interest of money borrowed. The debt
of the burgh at the same period amounted to £8,171
18s. Id.; and the free value of property, after de-
ducting that debt, £5,356 10s. Id. The property
consists of lands, feu-duties, customs, and market-
dues. The property in land was at one time veiy
extensive, stretching 3 miles to the westward, and
extending perhaps to 1,000 acres. Compared with
this its present extent is very limited. The lands
seem to have been chiefly feued out upwards of a
century ago, when they were in a state of nature
and at very low feu-duties. The corporation revenue
in 1850-1 was £150. A municipal tax is levied for
the ends of lighting, cleaning, &c. The cess, or
burgh land-tax, is levied upon property and the
profits of trade within the royalty of the burgh. It
is allocated by stent-masters chosen from among
the merchants of the burgh by the council, by whom
the collector is also annually appointed. The juris-
diction of the magistrates is confined to the burgh
and burgh-acres. The royalty is very narrow to-
wards the north, being bounded on that side by the
Lady bum. Immediately to the north of this bum,
and within the parliamentry boundary, there have
arisen of late years several villages where there is
no police-establishment of any kind, and which are
beyond the jurisdiction of the magistrates. These
villages are called Braehead and Newtown — both
on the lands of Pittencrieff— and Burnside, Lebanon,
and Bank street. Even more directly within the
precincts of the town, and in the principal street,
called St. Catherine-street, there are houses which
are not within the royalty, although completely
surrounded by it. In the street called the Millgate,
the west side of the street holds burgage, and is
within the royalty, and the east side is beyond it
and holds of the Earl of Rothes. Burgh-courts are
held on stated days for the despatch of business;
but as the sheriff-courts, both ordinary and under
the small debt act. are held within the burgh, little
business is brought before the burgh-court. — Cupar-
Fife is conjoined, in the election of a member of
parliament, with St. Andrews, Crail, Kilrenny,
East and West Anstruther, and Pittenweem. Pre-
vious to the Reform bill, it was rather anomalously
associated with Perth, Dundee, Forfar, and St.
Andrews. Parliamentary constituency in 1853, 242.
In an ancient document styled 'A Brief View of
Scotland in the Sixteenth Century,' printed by
Pinkerton, in his History of Scotland, from a manu-
script in the Cottonian library, it is said, " Most
borrows are at the devotion of some noblemen, as
Cowper in Fiffe managed by the Earl of Rothes."
Among those who represented this burgh in the
Scottish parliament, appears Sir David Lindsay of
the Mount. Population of the royal burgh in 1841,
3,567; in 1861, 4,980. Houses, 799. Population of
the parliamentary burgh in 1861, 5,029. Houses, 806.
Cupar-Fife is a place of considerable antiquity.
At an early period the Mucduffs, thanes of Fife, had
a castle here, in the midst of the marshy grounds,
which bordered the Eden and St. Mary's burn. It
continued the seat of the court of the stewartry
of Fife, until the forfeiture of Albany, Earl of Fife,
in the reign of James I., when that court was re-
moved to Falkland. During the darker ages,
theatrical representations, called Mysteries or Mo-
ralities, were frequently exhibited here. The place
where these entertainments were presented, was
called the Playfield. " Few towns of note," says
Arnot, in his 'History of Edinburgh,' "were with-
out one. That of Edinburgh was at the Greenside-
well ; that of Cupar in Fife was on their Castle-hill."
The pieces presented in the Playfield of Cupar,
however, seem not, at the era of the Reformation, to
have had any connection with religious subjects,
but were calculated to interest and amuse, by ex-
hibiting every variety of character and every species
of humour. To illustrate the manners which pre-
vailed in Scotland in the 16th century, and as a
specimen of the dramatic compositions which
pleased our fathers, Aniot, in the appendix to his
History, gives a curious excerpt from a manuscript
comedy, which bears to have been exhibited in the
Playfield at Cupar, and which had been in the pos-
session of the late Mr. Garrick. That part of the
excerpt only, which relates to the place where the
play was presented, is here transcribed:
"Here begins the proclamation of ttte play, made by David
Lindsay of the Mount, knight, in the Playfield, in the month ot
, the year of God 1555 years."
"Proclamation made in Cupar of Fife.
"Our purpose is on the seventh day of June,
If weather serve, and we have rest and peace.
We shall be seen into our playing place,
In good array about the hour of seven.
Of thriftiness that day, I pray you cease;
But ordain us good drink against allevin.
Fail not to be upon the Castlehill,
Beside the place where we purpose to play
With gude stark wine your flaggons see you fill
And had yourselves the rainiest that you may."
" Cottager. I shall be there, with God's grace,
Tho' there were never so great a price,
And foremost in the fair:
And drink a quart in Cupar town,
With my gossip John Williamson,
Tho' all the nolt should rair!" &c
During the residence of our Kings in Scotland,
Cupar- Fife often received visits from royalty. Al-
most all the Jameses, and the unfortunate Mary,
repeatedly visited it, and were entertained within
the town. The last royal visit was made by
Charles II. on the 6th of July, 1650, when on his
way from St. Andrews to Falkland. He was enter-
tained at dinner by the magistrates in the town-
hall; then forming part of the tolbooth or gaol.
" He came to Couper," says Lamont, " where he gatt
some desert to his foure houres : the place where he
satte doune to eate was the tolbooth. The towne
had appointed Mr. Andro Andersone, scholemaster
ther for the tyme, to give him a musicke songe or
two, while he was at table. Mr. Dai-id Douglysse
had a speech to him at his entile to the towne.
After this he went to Falklande all night. All this
tyme the most part of the gentelmen of the shyre
did go alonge with him."
From an ancient plan of the town, 1642 — en-
CUPAR-GRANGE.
348
CURRIE.
graved from the original in the Advocates' library,
by the Abbotsford club — it appears that Cupar-Fife
had anciently gates or ports. One of these stood at
the west end of the Bonny gate, called the West port ;
one at the middle of the Lady wynd, called the
Lady port ; one below the castle, called the East
port; one at the bridge, called the Bridge port; one
.it the Millgate, called the Millgate port ; and an-
other at the end of the Kirkgate, called the Kirk-
gate port. It is curious to observe, from this plan,
how little alteration has since taken place in the
streets of the town; and that the names of both
streets and lanes are still the same they then were.
The principal alteration — with the exception of
buildings in the suburbs — is the taking down
of the old jail and town-house at the Cross and
the opening up of St. Catherine-street. Where
the markets are still held, opposite the town-
house, at the junction of Crossgate and Bonny-
gate, the ancient cross of Cupar-Fife once stood.
It was an octagonal building, with a round pillar
rising from it, surmounted by a unicorn, the sup-
porter of the royal arms of Scotland. When the
jail was taken down, this structure was also re-
moved; and at the request of Colonel Wemyss, the
pillar was presented to him, when he caused it to
Be re-erected on the top of Wemyss-hall hill, where
it still remains marking the spot on which the fa-
mous treaty between Mary of Guise and the Lords
of the Congregation was subscribed.
CUPAB-GEANGE, an estate in the parish of
Bendochy, about 2 miles north of Cupar- Angus, on
the eastern border of Perthshire. A considerable
village, consisting of an assemblage of small farm-
houses and their appendages, formerly existed here,
but is now extinct. A famous variety of oat origi-
nated here, and is still extensively cultivated, but is
now known generally as the common late oat of
Perthshire and Forfarshire. There was discovered
at Cupar-Grange some time last century a re-
pository of the ashes of sacrifices which our an-
cestors were wont to offer up in honour of their
deities. " It is," says Pennant in his Second Tour,
" a large space of a circular form, fenced with a
wall on either side, and paved at bottom with flags.
The walls are about 5 feet in height, and built with
coarse stone. They form an outer and an inner
circle, distant from each other 9 feet. The diameter
of the inner circle is 60 feet, and the area of it is of
a piece with the circumjacent soil ; but the space
between the walls is filled with ashes of wood, par-
ticularly oak, and with the bones of various species
of animals. I could plainly distinguish the extremi-
ties of several bones of sheep; and was informed
that teeth of oxen and sheep had been found. The
top of the walls and ashes is near 2 feet below the
surface of the field. The entry is from the north-
west, and about 10 or 12 feet in breadth. From it
a pathway, 6 feet broad, and paved with small
stones, leads eastward to a large free-stone, stand-
ing erect between the walls, and reaching 5 feet
above the pavement, supported by other stones at
bottom. It is flat on the upper part, and 2 feet
square. Another repository of the same kind and
dimensions was discovered at the distance of 300
paces from the former. From the numbers of oak-
trees that have been digged out of the neighbouring
grounds, it would appear that this was anciently a
grove."
CUPINSHAY. See Copensay.
CUE (The), a river in the district of Cowal,
Argyleshire. It takes its rise in the mountains
which border on Lochgoilhead, between Glaslet hill
and Benulei. Its course for 2 miles is rough and
rapid, forming, as it descends from the mountains,
several fine cascades ; but when it has reached the
plains of Strachur it runs smoothly, making a num-
ber of beautiful turns. The banks are generally of
a deep soil, partly of loam and clay; but the crops
are frequently much damaged by the sudden rising
of its waters. After a course of about 9 or 10 miles,
it falls into the head of Loch Eck.
CUEGAEF. See Corgarf.
CUEGIE, a small port in the parish of Kirk-
maiden, on the western side of the bay of Luce, 3
miles north of the Mull of Galloway, Wigtonshire.
CUE-HILLS. See Monikie.
CUEEIE, a parish, containing the post-office vil-
lages of Currie, Balerno, and Hermiston, in Edin-
burghshire. It is bounded by Corstorphine, Colin-
ton, Penicuick, Mid Calder, Kirknewton, and Eatho.
The most easterly point of it lies about 3£ miles
south-west of Edinburgh. Its length north-east-
ward is 8 miles ; and its breadth is 4J miles. Its
name seems to be a corruption of Koria or Coria,
given to it by the Eomans. Its surface descends
very irregularly, from a height of 900 feet or more
among the Pentlands, through bold undulations on
a basis of from 500 to 300 feet, to an expanse of
plain in some places below the level of the Union
canal. The soil of the uplands is moorish; but that
of the low tracts is veiy rich and under high cul-
ture. The Water of Leith comes in from the up-
lands of Mid Calder, flows through all the interior,
and is joined near the middle by Bevelaw bum.
The springs on the south-east border have con-
nexion with the Edinburgh water-works. Excel-
lent sandstone abounds, and is quarried. Limestone
of a bad quality is plentiful, but is not worked. A
vein of copper ore near East Mill was at one time
explored, with the view of being worked, but did
not promise to be compensating. The principal
landowners are Lord Eosebery of Buteland, Sir Wil-
liam Gibson Craig, Bart, of Eiccarton, Scott of Mal-
leny, Lord Morton, Lord Aberdour, and eight or
nine others. Great georgical improvements have
been effected. The rental of the Malleny property
has risen in about seventy years from £300 to up-
wards of £2,000. There are in the parish three
paper mills, a snuff mill, several flour mills, and an
extensive yarn and sail-cloth manufactory. On an
elevated situation, above the bank of the Water of
Leith, is an old castle called Lennox Tower, said to
have belonged to the family of Lennox, and to have
been occasionally the residence of Queen Mary in
her youth, — ■
" When love was young, and Darnley kind."
It became afterwards, according to the same tradi-
tion, a seat of the Eegent Morton. It commands a
beautiful prospect of the frith of Forth, and must
have been a place of very considerable strength,
being inaccessible on all sides. It had a subter-
raneous passage to the river. The extent of the
rampart, which goes round the brow of the bill, is
about 1,212 feet. Not far from this castle, on the
opposite side of the river, are the ruins of another
ancient edifice, the mansion of the Skenes of Currie-
hill, the date of whose creation, as Baronets of Scot-
land, is unknown; but they possessed very exten-
sive property in this parish. The family of Bal-
merino, originally, had here also a considerable do-
main. On the top of Eavelrig-hill, are to be seen
the remains of a Eoman station, or exploratory
camp, which affords a farther confirmation of the
name of this parish having been originally derived
from the Latin. It is on the summit of a high
bank, inaccessible on three sides, defended by two
ditches, and faced with stone, with openings for a
gate. It is named bv the country people Castle-
CUSIINIE.
349
CUTHBERT'S.
bank. Farther cast arc the appearances of another
station or post, which commands an extensive view
of the strath towards Edinburgh, and is styled the
General's Watch. They are both very distinctly
marked, in an old plan of the Eavelrig estate, but are
now much defaced; former proprietors having carried
off the greater part of the stones to build fences.
The parish is traversed by the road from Edinburgh
to Lanark, by the Union canal, by the Caledonian
railway, and by the Edinburgh and Glasgow rail-
way. The village of Carrie stands on the Edin-
burgh and Lanark road, and on the left bank of the
Water of Leith, 6 miles south-west of Edinburgh.
It has a station on the Caledonian railway, and is a
station of the Edinburgh county police. Its situa-
tion is pleasant, and its appearance prosperous.
Population of the village in 1861, 345. Popula-
tion of the parish in 1831, 1,883; in 1861, 2,248.
Houses, 433. Assessed property in 1843, £12,164 Is.
This parish is in the presbytery of Edinburgh,
and svnod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Sir
William Gibson Craig, Bart. Stipend, £264 9s.
lOd. ; glebe, £16. Schoolmaster's salary, £34 4s.
4Jd. ; fees, £52. The parish church stands at the
village of Currie, was built about 70 years ago, and
contains about 800 sittings. There is a Free church
for Colinton and Currie. There is an United Presby-
terian church at Balerno, built in 1829, and con-
taining about 500 sittings. There are three non-
parochial schools, — one of them with a commodious
school-house at Balerno; and there is a parochial
library. Currie district seems originally to have
belonged to the collegiate church of Corstorphine,
and to have been a benefice of the archdeacon of
Lothian. Even so late as the reign of Charles I. it
does not appear to have been a separate parish, for
no mention of it is made in the royal decree of the
erection of the see of Edinburgh, though all the ad-
joining parishes are noticed. That Currie, however,
though not perhaps a separate parish, had veiy an-
ciently been a place of religious worship, the writer
of the Old Statistical Account thinks " is clear from
this proof, that in digging for the foundation of the
present church, on the site of the old one, there was
discovered a round hollow piece of silver, having
the remains of gilding on it, and which seems evi-
dently either a part of the stalk of a crucifix, or of
an altar-candlestick. It has a screw at each end.
Its length is 7| inches, and its diameter 1J inch.
In a spiral scroll from top to bottom, there is the
following inscription t — ' Jesu Fili Dei miserere mei.'
The letters — which are Saxon — are very well en-
graved, and each § of an inch large. It is at pre-
sent in the museum of the Society of Antiquaries in
Edinburgh."
CUESUS APEI. See Andrews (St.).
CUSHNIE, a small parish, formerly a vicarage,
in Aberdeenshire, which, in 1798, was annexed to
the neighbouring one of Leochel, so that they
now form one parochial charge. See Leochel-
Cushnte.
CUTHBERT'S (St.), a very populous parish,
partly urban and partly landward, in Edinburgh-
shire. It is bounded by the royalty of Edinburgh,
and by the parishes of Canongate, Liberton, Colin-
ton, Corstorphine, Cramond, North Leith, and South
Leith. Its length, north-north-westward, is 5 miles ;
and its breadth is 3J miles. Its urban part com-
prises all the portions of the Old Town of Edinburgh
beyond the ancient royalty and the Canongate, and
all* the portions of the New Town, both compact and
suburban, not included in the city parishes of St.
George's, St. Stephen's, St. Andrew's, St. Mary's,
and Greenside. Its landward part extends in one
direction from the Braid hills to Trinity ; in another,
from the neighbourhood of Slatcford to the Queen's
Park; and in another, from the vicinity of Corstor-
phine Hill to the outskirts of North Leith. Its
surface, therefore, is exceedingly rich and surpass-
ingly varied, comprising a broad zone of the city of
Edinburgh, in almost every variety of that city's
romantic features, — the exquisite scenery of the
Braid hills, Morningside, and Canaan, — the plea-
sant beauties of the Meadows, the Grange, and New
ington, — the rich plain, arabesquely studded with
suburbs, mansions, manufactories, villages, and
farm-fields, extending away westward from the
Lothian road, — the picturesque dell of the Water of
Leith, from the vicinity of Slatcford, past Coltbridge,
through Stoekbridge, and round the skirts of Edin-
burgh to Bonnington, — and the luxuriant tract,
gay with decoration, laughing in beauty, rich in
great gardens and nursery-grounds, and gemmed to
profusion in many a part with villas and mansions,
stretching from the Water of Leith on one side to-
ward Craigleith and on another to Trinity. Asa
whole, however, the parish is so identified with the
metropolis that an account of most things pertain-
ing to it must be reserved for incorporation with
our article on Edinburgh.
St. Cuthbert's parish was originally of such ex-
tent as to comprise all the present parishes of the
city of Edinburgh, the parish of Canongate, the
parishes of Corstorphine and Liberton, the greater
part of the parish of North Leith, and some part of
the parish of South Leith. It took its name from
the Culdee missionary Cuthhert, who itinerated from
York to the Forth as a preacher, became nominal
bishop of Lindisfarn, died in 687, and bequeathed
his name to Kirkcudbright and to many other places
in the south of Scotland. It was the oldest parish
in Mid-Lothian, and soon hecame the richest. Its
first church was probably built about the time ot
Cuthbert's death, or very soon after. It had several
grants, known to record, before the date of the
charter of Holyrood; and it was given, together
with its kirktown and rights, by David I. to the
monk of that abhey. Except with regard to the
urban districts of the New Town of Edinhurgh,
whose disjunction was of quite modern date, the
parish was reduced to its present limits in the
Popish times. But even within these it had a num-
her of ecclesiastical institutions. Immediately ad-
jacent to the city wall, at the east end of Drum-
mond Street, stood a nunnery, dedicated to St. Mary
of Placentia. A corruption of its designation sur-
vives in the name Pleasance, home hy the street
which sweeps past its site. On the east side of the
road to Dalkeith stood a chapel and an hospital
dedicated to St. Leonard. The lands belonging to
them were granted by James VI. to the magistrates
of Canongate as an endowment to St. Thomas'
Hospital. The name survives in various localities
adjacent to the site. On the east side of Newing-
ton stood a chapel of Knights' Templars. Its site,
a rising-ground, or slight eminence, is called Mount
Hooly, a corruption of Mount Holy, or the Holy
Mount. About 120 years ago, when the ground was
dug up, several hodies were found, cross-legged and
accoutred with swords. South of the meadows, not
far from Grange House, was a convent of Dominican
nuns, founded by the lady St. Clair of Eoslin, and
dedicated to St. Catherine of Sienna. A low shape-
less ruin still remains, and gives the name Sheens,
corrupted from Sienna or Siensis, to a district around
it South-west from the Grange, on the west end
of Borough-moor, stood a large chapel, dedicated to
St. Eoque. Around it was a cemetery which the
citizens of Edinhurgh used for about two centuries,
and which was the chosen place of interment for
CUTHILL.
350
DAER.
persons who died of epidemics. East of the chapel
of St. Roque was another dedicated to St. John the
Baptist. In the suburb of Portsburgh was a chapel
dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which gave to the
thoroughfare, on which it stood the name of Chapel-
wynd.
CUTHILL, or Cuttle, a suburb of the town of
Prestonpans, Haddingtonshire. It is separated
from the west end of that town by a rill. It is a
dingy unpleasant place. Here were formerly a
saltwork, a magnesia manufactory, and au exten-
sive pottery. Population, 172.
CUTTYFIELD, a village in the parish of Lar-
bert, connected with the Carron Iron-Works, Stir-
lingshire.
CYRUS (St.), or Ecclescraig, a parish, contain-
ing the post-office village of St. Cyrus, and the small
villages of Eoadside, Burnside, Lochside, Whitehill,
Milton, and Tangleha', in the southern extremity of
Kincardineshire. It is bounded on the east by the
German ocean ; on the south, by Forfarshire ; and
on other sides by the parishes of Marykirk, Gar-
vock, and Benholme. Its length north-eastward is
5 miles; and its breadth is 3J miles. The North
Esk, describing a semicircular curve and flowing
along a picturesque glen, traces the boundary with
Forfarshire. Six burns, all running in romantic
dells, drain the interior to either the North Esk or
the sea; and the largest, traversing Den Fenella,
beneath two handsome bridges, one of them 120 feet
high, forms a grand cascade of 65 feet in perpendi-
cular fall. The general surface of the parish com-
prises a number of hills, separated from one another
by the dells, and varying in altitude from 450 to
630 feet; so that it presents many great abrupt
transitions of level, and abounds in bold, romantic,
and beautiful features of landscape. About a mile
of the coast on the south is flanked with flat beach ;
and all the rest, after projecting three low rocky
promontories into the sea, rises up in an almost
continuous escarpment, varying in height from 50
to nearly 300 feet, everywhere steep, and in some
parts a perpendicular cliff. This escarpment is be-
lieved by geologists to be the barrier of an ancient
ocean. The most southerly of the three promonto-
ries forms the northern screen of the broad, low,
crescent- shaped bay of Montrose. Sir Charles Lyell
makes large remarks on the coast of St. Cyrus, and
notices, among other matters, the destruction of a
village, a little to the east of the promontory of
Rockhall, in the vicinity of the present village of
Tangleha'. " On the coast of Kincardineshire,"
says he, " an illustration was afforded at the close
of last century, of the effect of promontories in pro-
tecting a line of low shore. The village of Mathers,
two miles south of Johnshaven, was built on an
ancient shingle beach protected by a projecting
ledge of limestone rock. This was quarried for
lime to such an extent that the sea broke through,
and in 1795 carried away the whole village in one
night, and penetrated 150 yards inland, where it
has maintained its ground ever since." About
6,250 acres of the parish are under tillage ; about
350 are under wood; about 760 are improveable
hill pasture ; and about 850 are irreclaimable waste.
The soil of the arable lands is very various, but
generally rich. Limestone is not now worked ; but
there are sandstone quarries. There are several
valuable salmon fisheries. The principal land-
owners are Porteous of Lauriston, Grant of Mount
Cyrus, Fordyce of Woodston, the Earl of Kintore,
and seven others. The real rental is about £12,800.
The principal mansions are Lauriston, Mount
Cyrus, Bridgeton, and Kirkside. The chief antiqui-
ties are some remains of the ancient castle of Lau-
riston, incorporated with the modem mansion of
Lauriston; some vestiges of a sea-girt fortalice,
called the Kaim of Mathers, at least as old as the
time of James I.; and an ancient obelisk, which
has been variously regarded as a Druidical stone,
and as a sepulchral monument. The parish is tra-
versed by the road from Montrose to Aberdeen, and
enjoys near access to the Aberdeen railway. The
village of St. Cyrus stands on elevated ground, in
the eastern district of the parish, 5J miles north of
Montrose. It consists chiefly of thatched cottages,
in irregular order, and without neatness, but serving
as a foil to the handsome parish church, which
stands grandly up from among them to display its
beauty to a great extent of circumjacent country.
Population of the parish in 1831, 1,598; in 1861,
1,552. Houses, 347. Assessed property in 1843
£14,034 8s. 8d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Fordoun, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £247 17s.; glebe, £11. Unappropriated
teinds, £56 Is. 9d. Schoolmaster's salary, £33;
fees, £33. The parish church is an entirely new
edifice, completed in 1854, and contains 530 sittings.
There is a Free church, with an attendance of about
430: sum raised in 1853, £423 3s. 6d. There are
three private schools, and a parochial library. The
former parish church stood at the base of a rock on
the coast; and then the parish was called Eccles-
craig, which either means from Gaelic "the church
of the rock," or from Latin, " the church of Gre-
gory." The district in which the present church
stands was anciently called St. Cyrus, apparently
from some Culdee missionary; and, after the erection
of the church, it gave its name to the whole parish.
D
DAAL. See Loch-in-daal.
DAAN (The), a rivulet of the parish of Edder-
toun, Ross-shire. Two low tracts contiguous to it
are called the Meikle Daan and the Little Daan.
A coarse limestone and a refractory sandstone have
lieen worked here.
DAER (The), a rivulet of the parish of Crawford,
and head-stream of the river Clyde, in the upper
ward of Lanarkshire. It rises on the north shoulder
of Queensberry Hill, contiguous to the boundary
with Dumfries-shire, bears for a short distance the
name of Cross bum, and runs about 12 miles north-
DAILLY.
351
DAIRSIE.
ward to a confluence first with the Powtrail, and
next with the Little Clyde. See Crawford and
Clyde (The). It is, as to hoth volume of water
and length of run, the real parent-stream of the
Clyde. It gives the title of Lord Daer to the eldest
son of the Earl of Selkirk.
DAHARICK. See Midmar.
DAILLY, a parish, containing a post-office village
of its own name, in the centre of Carrick, Ayrshire.
It is hounded by Kirkoswald, Kirkmichael, Straiten,
Barr, and Girvan. It is of an irregular oblong
figure, stretching from north-cast to south-west;
and measures, in extreme length, nearly 7 miles,
and in breadth from 4 to 6. Its area probably con-
tains upwards of 17,000 acres. The parish is inter-
sected, in its extreme length, and along its central
division, by Girvan water ; which, all the way, is a
beautiful pastoral stream, and here receives, on both
banks, several rills of local origin. The surface, at
first, rising gently and variedly from the banks of
the river, and afterwards soaring into hills of con-
siderable height, is a basin abounding in the beau-
ties of landscape. The lowlands are fertile, well-
cultivated, and richly wooded; and the uplands,
though naturally heathy and bleak, are partly re-
claimed, and nearly all afford good pasturage. The
beds of the indigenous rills are, for the most part,
deep, well-wooded, picturesque glens. The soil, in
the holms and meadows along the banks of the
Girvan, is light but very productive ; on the south
side, is light and dry, resting on a bed of gravel;
on the north side, is clayey and retentive ; and, on
the hills, is thin, wet, and spongy, consisting in
many places of moss. Coal, limestone, and free-
stone abound. The coal-bed is believed to be a
wing of the great coal-field which stretches from
the vicinity of Edinburgh into Ayrshire, and is here
worked in 5 seams, of from 4 to 14 feet in thickness.
Limestone is worked at Blairhill, near the south-
eastern extremity of the parish, and at Craighead,
near the north-western extremity. Argillaceous
marl is found in most parts, and has been success-
fully employed as manure. Numerous small chaly-
beate springs welling up in different parts of the
parish, seem to indicate the existence of strata of
ironstone. The climate, in the valley, is generally
dry and mild, but on the high grounds is moist and
chilly; and though everywhere subject to heavy
showers during westerly winds, is rarely loaded
with fogs. There are seven landowners; and four
of them have residences in the parish, — the Duchess
de Coigny of Bargany, Sir James Fergusson, Bart,
of Kilkerran, Sir John Andrew Cathcart, Bart, of
Carleton, and the Eight Hon. T. F. Kennedy of
Dunure. At Kilkerran and Penkill are ruins of
fortified castles. Near the lower extremity of a
wild and romantic glen once stood a chapel dedi-
cated to the Virgin Mary, whence the locality is
still called Ladyglen. At a place called Machry-
kill are vestiges of a small church or chapel, pro-
bably dedicated to St. Macarius. At the southern
termination of the western heights is an oval and
doubly enclosed encampment, 100 yards by 65,
commanding an extensive and uncommonly brilliant
view, and probably raised during the wars of Robert
Bruce. There are in various localities a saw-mill,
two corn-mills, and a brick-work. The parish is
traversed down the vale of the Girvan by the road
from Ayr to Stranraer. The village of Dailly
stands on that road, 6 miles north-east of Girvan,
and 7 south of Maybole. It has been greatly im-
proved and enlarged since 1825, and makes a neat
display of houses, substantially built and regularly
arranged. It has had trial of a savings' bank and
two friendly societies. Population of the village in
1861, 650. Population of the parish in 1831, 2,074;
in 1861, 2,050. Houses, 379. Assessed property
in 1843, £10,695 9s.
This parish is in the presbytery of Ayr, and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£348 7s. 9d.; glebe, £15 10s. Schoolmaster's
salary, £30, with £30 other emoluments. The old
church, which stood at Old Dailly, about 3 miles
from the present church and village, was granted
by Duncan, the first Earl of Carrick, to the monks
of Paisley; but was afterwards transferred by
Robert I. to the monks of Crossraguel, and remained
with them till the Reformation. In 1653, an exten-
sive tract of the original parish of Dailly, lying on
the south-east among the upper branches of the
Stinchar, was detached in order to form the modem
parish of Barr. Dailly, however, received, at the
same time, a small addition on the north-east from
Kirkoswald. Though nowhere touching the sea-
coast, the parish includes also the romantic rock of
Ailsa, in the centre of the frith of Clyde. See
Ailsa Craig. The present church was built in
1766, and cost £600. Sittings, 650. There is a
Free church: attendance, 150; receipts in 1853, £88
lis. 9|d. There are five non-parochial schools.
The name of the parish is probably descriptive of
the central stripe or " dale." The ancient name
was Dalmaolkeran, signifying the Dale of St.
Kieran.
DAIRSIE, a parish, containing the post-office
station of Dairsie and the post-office village of
Osnaburgh, in the north-east of Fifeshire. It is
bounded by Logie, Leuchars, Kemback, Cupar-Fife,
and Kilmany. Its west side is within 1| mile ot
the town of Cupar-Fife. Its southern boundary is
traced by the Eden. Its length is about 2J miles,
and its breadth nearly as much. Superficial area
2,306 acres, of which only 15 are waste land. Its
general appearance is that of a gently rising
ground; the inclination being towards the south
and south-east. There are in it two hills of a
moderate height, from which are very extensive
prospects. The one is called Foodie, the other
Craigfoodie, and both of them are remarkable for
bearing crops nearly to their summit. The soil is
for the most part fertile, and in many places rich
and deep. There are eight landowners. The real
rental is about £4,400. The mansions are Craig-
foodie, Newmill, Pitormie, and Dairsie - Cottage.
The parish church, which is a handsome small
edifice, with a polygonal tower terminating in a
spire, and also a bridge of three arches across the
Eden here, were built by Archbishop Spottiswood,
when proprietor of Dairsie. In an old castle, near
the church, he is said to have compiled his Church
Histoiy. This castle was once a place of consider-
able strength, and a parliament was held in it in
1355. It is now greatly dilapidated; but a view of
it is given in the edition of Sir Robert Sihbald's
History of Fife, published at Cupar in 1803. There
is a spinning mill at Newmill, and another at
Lydiamill, both on the Eden. A part of the popu-
lation is employed in weaving linens. The Dundee
fork of the Edinburgh and Northern railway passes
through the parish, and has a station in it. Popula-
tion in 1831, 605; in 1861, 638. Houses, 153.
Assessed property in 1843, £4,751 lis.
This parish is in the synod of Fife, and presby-
tery of Cupar. Patron, Captain Macdonald of Sand-
side. Stipend, £250 19s. 5d.; glebe, £11. Unappro-
priated teinds, £101 13s. 3d. Schoolmaster's salary,
£34 12s. 4Jd., with £25 fees. The parish-school is
near Middfefoodie. The parish church contains 310
sittings. There is a Free church: attendance,
about 270; receipts in 1853, £162 18s. Id. There
DAL.
352
DALGETY.
are non -parochial schools at Osnaburgh and
Foodieash
DAL-, a prefix in names of Saxon and Celtic
origin, signifying a meadow or stream-watered vale.
The names compounded with it are all, in some
manner or other, descriptive, — as Dalkeith, 'the
narrow vale,' — Dairy, 'the King's vale' or 'King's
meadow.'
DAL (The), a small salmon-frequented stream,
flowing into Balnakiel hay, in the parish of Durness,
Sutherlandshire.
DALAEOSSIE, or Dalfeesussie, that is, ' Fer-
gus's valley,' a district in the shire of Inverness,
formerly a vicarage, now united to the parish of
Moy. See Mov and Dalaeossie.
DALAVICH, an ancient parish, now miited to
Kilehrenan, in the district of Lorn, Argyleshire.
Population in 1831, 615; in 1851, 282. Houses, 57.
See Kilcheenan. Near Loch Avich, in this district,
lay the scene of an ancient Celtic poem, translated
by Dr. Smith, call ' Cath-Luina,' or ' The Conflict
ofLuina;' in the lake, is an island, the scene of
another poem, called ' Laoi Fraoich,' or ' The Death
of Fraoich ; ' and many places in this neighbourhood
are still denominated from Ossian's heroes. See
article Avich (Loch).
DALBEATTIE, a small post-town in the parish
of Urr, Kirkcudbrightshire. It stands on Dalbeattie
burn, 4 or 5 furlongs above that stream's influx
to Urr Water, and about 5J miles east-south-east of
Castle-Douglas. It was commenced about the year
1780, and advanced rapidly in prosperity. It is built
of a lively - coloured granite, and offers high ad-
vantages, as to both garden-grounds and the right
of cutting peats, to feuars. It stands in a pleasant
country, and possesses some important facilities for
manufactures and commerce. On Dalbeattie bum
are an extensive iron forge, two corn mills, a bone
mill, a paper mill, two saw mills, two pirn mills, a
waulk and dye mill, and a carpet manufactory.
Vessels of 70 or 80 tons can come up to the foot of
the burn, at Dub of Hass harbour. Fairs are held
in the town on the second Thursday of April and the
second Thursday of October. Here are a quoad sacra
parish church, a Free church, a Eoman Catholic
chapel, a parochial school, a Free church school, a
branch office of the Union Bank, a savings' bank, and
a mechanics' institute, with a library and a reading-
room. Population in 1841, 1.430; in 1861, 1,736.
DALBLA1R. See Glenmuib.
DALCHOISNIE. See Fortikoal.
DALCEOSS. See Croy.
DALGAIN, an estate in the parish of Sorn, Ayr-
shire. That parish itself was anciently called Dal-
gain. See Sorn. The word Dalgain signifies the
sandy or gravelly meadow, and is strikingly descrip-
tive of the soil on which the old house of Dalgain
stands.
DALGAENOCK, a suppressed parish in Dum-
fries-shire, incorporated with C'losebuen: which
see. The old parish nearly surrounded Closeburn,
and was annexed to it in the 17th century. There
wag here, in former times, a considerable village,
the burgh of the barony. Though not a single
house of it remains, a fair or tryst seems still to be
held on its site. Says Burns,
" I gaed to the tryst of Dalgarnock,
And wha but my fine fickle lover was there?"
DALGAEVEN, a village in the parish of Kil-
winning, Ayrshire. It stands on the right bank of"
the Garnock, contiguous to the Glasgow and Ayr
railway, nearly 2 miles north of the town of Kil-
winning. Population, 107.
DALGENEOSS. See Comeie.
DALGETY, a parish, containing the villages of
St. David's and Fordel-Square, and part of the post-
office village of Crossgates, on the coast of the Dun-
fermline district of Fifeshire. It is bounded on the
south by the frith of Forth, and on other sides by
the parishes of Inverkeithing, Dunfermline, Beath,
Auchtertool, and Aberdour. Its length southward
is nearly 5 miles; and its breadth is about If mile.
The coast-line is a beautiful series of curvatures,
backed by a picturesque sea-board, about 3 miles in
extent, immediately east of Inverkeithing bay.
Upwards of 1,000 acres are in tillage, and about 250
are under wood. The arable soil is partly a light
dry loam, but generally a deep strong loam. The
ground, in most places, rises considerably above the
level of the coast. The few hills are neither high
nor rocky. The highest ground is about 450 feet
above sea-level. There is a small loch at Otterston,
about a mile from the coast, which is much admired.
It is not quite a mile in length, nor above a quarter
of a mile in breadth; but its banks are finely
wooded. Near it, on the grounds of Fordel, is a
fine waterfall. The house of Donibristle, a seat of
the Earl of Moray, was formerly the residence of
the abbot of St. Combe, but it has since been greatly
enlarged and improved. Donibristle was, in 1592,
the scene of the cruel murder of ' the bonny ' Earl,
whose personal attractions and accomplishments, it
is alleged by some historians, had impressed the
heart of Anne of Denmark, and excited the jealousy
of her royal spouse. This at least was the popular
notion of the time :
" He was a braw gallant,
And he play'd at the gluve;
And the bonny Earl of Murray,
Oh! he was the queenes love."
Political reasons, according to Bishop Percy, were
given for his arrest; but more than arrest seems to
have been intended, for the commission was in-
trusted to his inveterate enemy Huntly, who, with
a number of armed men, surrounding the house in a
dark night, set it on fire, on Murray's refusal to
surrender. He escaped the flames, but was disco-
vered by a spark which fell on his helmet, and was
slain, telling Gordon of Buckie, who had wounded
him in the face, " You have spilt a better face than
your awin ! " " Hard by it," says Sibbald, " is Dal-
gatie, the dwelling of the Lord Yester; it was re-
paired and heautifyed with gardens by Chancellor
Seaton, Earl of Dunfermling, who lyes interred in
the church there." Little of it now remains. Op-
posite the eastern extremity of the parish, and
within a mile of the shore, is the island of St.
Combe: see Inchcoem. The old parish church is a
very ancient building. The exact period of its
erection cannot be ascertained; but there are docu-
ments which show that a grant of the ground on
which it stands, was made to the abbot of St.
Combe as far back as the 14th century. Additions,
however, have been made to it, which hear marks
of a later date. The mansions, besides Donibristle,
are Fordel-House and Cockaimey. The landowners
are the Earl of Moray, Lady Mowbray, Henderson
of Fordel, and Mowbray of Otterston. The yearly
value of raw produce was estimated in 1836 at
£1,600 from salt-works, £28,000 from Fordel col-
liery, and £8,455 from crops. The Fordel colliery
still affords the principal employment in the parish;
for more than one-half of the population reside in
rows of collier houses. Most of the coal is exported
from the harbour of St. David's, where vessels of a
burthen not exceeding 500 tons can load in safety.
The distance from the pits to the shore is 4 miles,
along which the coals are carried on a railway.
=1
DALGUISE.
3513
DALKEITH.
Tlic annual export is about 70,000 tons; and tho
coal is reckoned of a very superior quality. There
are also brick-works in the parish. The Dunferm-
line branch of the North British railway goes across
the northern part of the parish, and has a station at
Crossgates. Population in 1831, 1,300; in 1861,
1,569. Houses, 269. Assessed property in 1866,
£7,284 14s. 6d.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Dunfermline, and synod of Fife. Patron,
the Earl of Moray. Stipend, £227 7s. Id.; glebe,
£20. Schoolmaster's salary now is £50, with £18
fees. The present parish church was bnilt in 1830,
and stands contiguous to the road from Aberdour to
Inverkeithing. It contains about 500 sittings, and
is a very handsome edifice in the Gothic style.
There is a chapel-of-ease at Mossgreen. There are
two non-parochial schools, — the one at Hillend and
the other at Fordel colliery. There is an Otterston
curling club.
DALGINROSS. SeeCojiuiE.
DALGUISE, a post-office village in the parish of
Little Dunkeld, Perthshire. It stands on the right
side of the 'fay, about 4£ miles north-north-west of
Dunkeld ; and has a station on the Highland rail-
way. Here is a Free church : receipts in 1865, £63
15s. OJd. Adjacent is the mansion of Dalguise,
partly an old building, and partly modern, beauti-
fully situated in the vicinity of the road from Perth
to Taymouth. The estate of Dalguise was given
by William the Lion to the church of Dunkeld, and
granted in 1543 by Bishop Crichton to the second
son of Stewart of Amtullie, in the possession of
whose descendant it still remains. Springs strongly
impregnated with iron occur on the lands of Dal-
guise.
DALHONZIE. See Courie.
DALHOUSIE. SeeCocKPEN.
DALINTOBER, a village on the north side of
the head of Campbelton Loch, Kintyre, Argyleshire.
It is a suburb of the town of Campbelton, and in-
cluded in the parliamentary boundaries. It is a
thriving place, and has a substantial small pier.
Population in 1851, 1,762. See Cajepbelton.
DALJAEROCK, a post-office station, on Stinchar
Water, and on the road from Ayr to Stranraer, 4
miles north-east of the village of Colmonell, Car-
rick, Ayrshire.
DALKEITH, a parish, containing a post-town
of its own name, also the villages of Lugton and
Whitehill, in the eastern district of Edinburghshire.
It is bounded by Liberton, Newton, Inveresk, Cran-
ston, Newbattle, and Lasswade. Its greatest length
is 3} miles, and greatest breadth 2j miles. The
North Esk and the South Esk flow north-eastward
through it, into the pleasure-grounds of Dalkeith
Park, to a confluence a little before leaving it. The
surface is gently undulated, but in no quarter rises
into hills; indeed the whole might be considered a
" plain, did not the steep banks of the rivers give it
an uneven and broken appearance. The soil is
light on the lower grounds, and on a deep clay,
well-adapted for raising either fruit or forest-trees.
The parts of the surface not occupied by roads, by
the town and villages, and by the pleasure-grounds
of the parish, are disposed principally in corn-fields,
gardens, and orchards. The whole substrata belong
to the carboniferous formation, and lie in nearly the
centre of the Lothian coal-field. An extensive bed
of briek and tile clay occurs at Newfarm and near
Gallowshall. The Duke of Buccleuch is proprietor
of about seven-eighths of the parish ; and there are
numerous proprietors of the remainder. The yearly
value of raw pi'oduce, exclusive of minerals, was
estimated in 1844 at £13,893. The assessed pro-
I.
perty in 1860, was £23,847. The parish is traversed
by the Hawick branch of the North British railway,
and has a station on it at Eskhank, and also has a
sub-branch of it to the town of Dalkeith. Popula-
tion in 1831, 5,586; in 1801, 7,114. Houses, 901.
Dalkeith Park, surrounding the palatial residence
of the Duke of Buccleuch, adjoins the lower end of
the town, occupies tho north-east part of the pa-
rish, and extends into the contiguous parishes of
Newton and Inveresk. Its total area is 1,035 acres.
It derives fine natural advantages from the wind-
ings of the two Esks, which unite about half-a-mile
below the palace, and has been tastefully disposed
by art into every variety of close landscape decora-
tion, with profusion of woods, walks, and carriage-
ways. " It is a noble piece of ground," says Stod-
dart, " planted with a number of fine old oaks and
other venerable trees. The South Esk, in its course
within it, has a pleasing wildncss, being almost en-
tirely overshadowed by the dark hangings of the
ancient wood. The North Esk comes into more
open day; but has several very pleasing walks on
its banks, with views of the town and church of
Dalkeith."
The palace stands adjacent to the North Esk, in
the upper part of the park, not far from the Dal-
keith gate. It was erected about the beginning of
the last century, on the site of the old castle of
Dalkeith. In ancient times, Dalkeith castle ap-
pears to have been a place of considerable strength,
and to have stood some sieges. It was situated on
a perpendicular rock of great height, and inacces-
sible on all sides, except on the east, where it was
defended by a fosse, through which the river is said
to have formerly run. It was, for some centuries,
the principal residence of the noble family of Mor-
ton ; and history records, that James, last Earl of
Douglas, exasperated against John Douglas, Lord
of Dalkeith, for espousing the cause of James II.,
who had basely murdered William, Earl of Douglas,
at Stirling, laid siege to the castle of Dalkeith,
binding himself by a solemn oath not to desist till
he had made himself master of it. It was, how-
ever, so gallantly defended by Patrick Cockburn
and Clerkington, that the Earl of Douglas, and his
followers, found themselves unable to reduce it, and
were obliged to raise the siege. On the defeat of
the Scotch army at Pinkie, in 1547, many fled to
the castle of Dalkeith for refuge, among whom was
James Earl of Morton, afterwards Regent of Scot-
land, and Sir David Hume of Wedderburn. It was
besieged by the English, and defended for some
time ; but as it contained not a sufficient store of
provisions for such a number of men as had fled to
it, and as the besieged had no hopes of succour
against the victorious army, it was obliged to sur-
render; in consequence of which, the Earl and Sir
David were made prisoners. " Morton's character,"
says Gilpin, " is marked in history with those vices
which unbounded ambition commonly ingrafts upon
the fiercer passions, — cruelty and revenge, — to
which we may add an insatiable avarice. Popular
odium at length overpowered him, and he found it
necessary to retire from public life. This castle
was the scene of his retreat; where he wished the
world to believe he was sequestered from all earthly
concerns. But the terror he had impressed through
the country during his power was such, that the
common people still dreaded him even in retirement.
In passing towards Dalkeith, they generally made
a circuit round the castle, which they durst not ap-
proach, calling it the lion's den. While he was
thus supposed to be employed in making his par-
terres and forming his ten-aces, he was planning a
scheme for the revival of his power. It suddenly
DALKEITH.
354
DALKEITH.
took effect, to the astonishment of all Scotland.
But it was of short continuance. In little more
than two years, he was obliged to retreat again from
public affairs ; and ended his life on a scaffold."
When Morton was executed, the barony of Dai-
Keith was included in his attainder ; and although
the estate was finally restored to the Earl of Morton,
yet the castle seems long to have been considered
as public property, and to have been used as such.
It was General Monk's residence while in Scot-
land. In the year 1642, the estate of Dalkeith
came into the possession of the family of Buccleuch
by purchase from the Earl of Morton. According
to Chalmers, the Douglases of Lothian obtained in
early times a baronial jurisdiction over many lands,
in several shires, which was called the Regality of
Dalkeith. In 1541, James, 3d Earl of Morton, ob-
tained a charter from James V., confirming this
regality. In January 1682, George, Earl of Dal-
housie, was appointed bailie of the regality of Dal-
keith. After the death of the Duke of Monmouth,
James, his son, was created Earl of Dalkeith. His
mother, Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch and Mon-
mouth, died, in 1732, aged 81, when she was suc-
ceeded by Francis, her grandson. On the abolition
of hereditary jurisdictions, in 1747, the Duke
claimed £4,000 for the regality of Dalkeith; but
was allowed only £3,400.
" Dalkeith palace," says Gilpin, " stands on a
knoll overlooking the North Esk. The knoll is
probably in part artificial ; for an awkward square
hollow hard by, indicates that the knoll has
been dug out of it. Beyond the river are woods;
and a picturesque view of the town and church of
Dalkeith. But the house fronts the other way,
where it is not only confined, but the ground rises
from it. It might have stood with great advantage,
if it had been earned two or three hundred yards
farther from the river; and its front turned towards
it. A fine lawn would then have decended from it,
bounded by the river, and the woods. We often see
a bad situation chosen: but we seldom see a good
one so narrowly missed." Stoddart says of the
palace, — " The front view is by no means good, as
the ground, rising from it, is soon bounded by the
trees. The architecture is of the Corinthian order,
and has the formal grandeur of the period when it
was built. On the opposite side, it appears much
more picturesquely seated, on an almost perpen-
dicular bank, overhanging the river. It is said,
that the castle was originally a place of great
strength, inaccessible on all sides, except the east,
where it was defended by a fosse, now filled up.
The rock too has been partly covered with earth,
gently sloped down to the river, and decorated with
shrubberies ; yet this part of the improvements has
not been executed with much taste. There is a for-
mality, both in the disposition of the ground, and in
the planting, which but badly suits the rapid Esk,
and the wild wood on the opposite side. To the
north of the house is a stone bridge, of a single
arch, 70 feet wide, and 45 high, exceedingly heavy
in its effect. At its first erection, two stags — the
supporters of the Buccleuch arms — were placed on
it, as ornaments; but they frighted the horses
which passed them so much, that it was found
necessary to remove them. From this bridge the
house would appear to advantage, if the shrubberies,
above which it rises, were in better taste." An
anonymous poem, published in London in 1752, and
entitled, 'Dalkeith, a Poem, occasioned by a view
of that delightful Palace and Park, the seat of His
Grace the Duke of Buccleuch,' says respecting the
palace, —
"Clasped in the folds of two embracing floods,
Compassed with gentle hills and rising woods,
On a green bank the beauteous palace stands,
And the subjected stream with pride commands.
Wliat though no lofty domes project in air, ■
Or lengthened colonnades with pride appear,
Yet is the whole in single state designed —
Plain and majestic, like its Monmouth's mind."
Dalkeith castle and Dalkeith palace were graced
with the presence of royalty, — the former in the
person of Charles I. in 1633, — the latter in the
person of George IV. in 1822, and in the persons of
Queen Victorja and Prince Albert in 1842. Her
Majesty arrived on Thursday the 1st of September,
entering the grounds by the Lugton gate. She
went to Edinburgh on Saturday, to make a royal
progress through the city, returning to Dalkeith in
the afternoon. She held a levee on Monday, in the
great gallery of the palace, where there was as
bright an assemblage of nobility and gentry as had
ever been anywhere in Scotland in the times before
the union of the kingdoms. She departed on Tues-
day the 6th to make a royal progress through the
Highlands of Perthshire, with sojournings at Tay-
mouth castle and Drummond castle, but returned
on Tuesday the 13th. She spent next day, and
had also spent part of the previous sojourn, in visit-
ing the noble residences and most notable scenes in
the neighbourhood, particularly in the valleys of
the Esks. And she took final leave on the 15th, to
pass through Edinburgh and embark at Granton.
The popular enthusiasm in Dalkeith, during all the
period of Her Majesty's visit, was unbounded.
Dalkeith parish is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The original
parsonage was part of the deanery of Eestalrig;
and seems not to have been constituted a distinct
parish till 1592. The barony of Lugton was an-
nexed to it in 1G33. Patron, the Duke of Buc-
cleuch. Stipend, £316 9s. 2d.; glebe, ±'40. Un-
appropriated teinds, £610 lis. lid. The parish
church is an old Gothic building, situated on the
north side of the High-street, frequently repaired
and containing 1,130 sittings. A new church was
built in 1840, by the Duke of Buccleuch, on a com-
manding site, near the head of the town, and con-
tains 950 sittings. This was intended as an Ex-
tension church, and bore for some years the name
of Buccleuch church ; but in 1853 it was constituted,
by the Court of Teinds, a quoad sacra parish under
the name of the West church. Patron, the Duke
of Buccleuch. An Episcopalian chapel, with 250
sittings, was built in 1844 within Dalkeith park,
near Dalkeith gate ; and though specially intended
for the accommodation of the ducal family and their
dependants, is accessible to the general population
of the parish. There is a Free church in the town :
attendance, 550; receipts in 1865, £833 16s. 3-4d.
There are three United Presbyterian churches, — the
East, with 880 sittings,— the' West, with 685,— and
the Back, with 436. Attendance at the East and the
West U. P. churches, each 600. There are also an
Independent chapel, with 300 sittings, an Evan-
gelical Union chapel, and a recently built Eoman
Catholic chapel. The parochial school is called
likewise the grammar school, and has long held a
distinguished place among the seminaries of Scot-
land. It affords tuition, not only in all the common
and liberal branches of an English and a classical
education, but also in mathematics and in French,
and occasionally in Italian and in German. The
master or rector draws only the maximum salary of
an ordinary parochial schoolmaster, but receives
large fees, and has a first-class house and garden.
There are nine other schools, four of them endowed,
and five unendowed.
DALKEITH.
355
DALKEITH.
The Town of Dalkeith stands on the peninsula
between the two Esks, 2 miles enst-north-east of
Lasswado, 4 south-south-west of Musselburgh, and
6J south-east of Edinburgh. The peninsula here is
a low tint-backed ridge, sloping rapidly to the
North Esk, and more gradually to the South Esk.
The skirts of the town down to the streams are
adorned with gardens and orchards; and the banks
on the opposite sides are in some parts tufted, in
others covered, with the woods belonging to the
parks of Dalkeith palace, Woodbum house, and
Newbattle abbey. The entire environs are pro-
fusely ornate and exceedingly beautiful. The town
is about two-thirds of a mile long, extending from
the railway depot to the Duke's gate. The High-
street is the backbone and chief thoroughfare of
the whole; but consists of a narrow half and a
spacious half, the former next the railway and
about 30 feet wide, the latter next the Duke's gate
and about 85 feet wide. A street called the Back
street rims parallel to the south side of the High-
street, but is not all edificed. The Edinburgh road,
before entering the town, forks into two thorough-
fares, the most easterly of which crosses the centre
of the town toward Newuiills, while the other
speedily forks again into other two, which also
cross the town, — the one in the form of a narrow
street called the North and West Wynd, the other
in the form of a broad street called Buccleuch street,
and the two reuniting in the southern outskirts. A
great many densely peopled lanes and closes occupy
the intermediate spaces. The town, as a whole, is
well built; and many of the houses, especially in
the High-street, are modem and elegant.
The old parish church imparts an air of antiquity
to the centre of the town. The part now occupied
is only a nave, 35 feet high in the middle part, and
24 feet high in the aisles. The steeple also is only
85 feet high. But the choir, though now unroofed,
still remains in tolerable preservation, and is in a
more ornamental style than the nave ; and within it
are reclining statues of the Earl and Countess of
Morton. A crowded burying-ground surrounds the
church, with a frontage to the High-street of 180
feet. The West church is an elegant and very con-
spicuous edifice, in the form of a cross, surmounted
by a spire. Its length from east to west is 90 feet ;
its width at the transepts is 75 feet, and elsewhere
50 feet ; its height from floor to ceiling is 35 feet ;
and the height of the spire is 167 feet. The Epis-
copalian chapel, though within the park, groups in
some degree with the architectural sceneiy of the
town, and is a highly ornamental Gothic edifice.
It consists of chapel-proper, 70 feet by 30, chancel,
25 feet by 17, and screen, and has a total length of
105 feet. The other places of worship in the town,
though plain, are creditable. The town-house is a
plain old building, opposite the old parish church in
the High-street, containing a weigh-house, a prison,
and a court-room. The bridges, on the main
thoroughfares, over both rivers in tbe environs, are
substantial stone structures ; and a bridge of com-
paratively private character, yet of most picturesque
appearance, constructed at the personal cost of the
Duke of Buccleuch, spans the South Esk in the
southern environs. The arches are 5 in number, of
120 feet span each, constructed of built beams of
timber abutted upon stone piers of tasteful archi-
tecture, and thrown across one of the most beauti-
ful turns of this beautiful stream. This bridge con-
nects an extensive coal-field on the property of the
Duke, at Cowden, with the Dalkeith railway.
The spacious half of the High-street is used as a
public market-place, and is the scene ' of as much
agricultural traffic as any area of equal extent in
Scotland. A great corn-market, the greatest for
oats in the kingdom, is held here on every Thursday.
A vast amount of business is transacted with tne ut-
most expedition, in perfect regularity, all for ready
money. The number of carts of grain on a full
market-day in winter ranges from 800 to 1,000. A
spacious covered market place, with a market-hall,
was erected in 1855, at a cost of £3,000. Another
market of considerable extent is held on every Mon-
day for meal, flour, and pot-barley, a considerable
portion of the supplies brought to which come from
the more southern parts of the county, and from
the neighbouring counties of Roxburgh, Berwick,
Peebles, and Selkirk. Dalkeith is also remarkable
for the number of its shops and the extent of business
done in them. Favoured by its extensive markets
and convenient situation, its shopkeepers contend
successfully with those of Edinburgh in supplying
with their respective commodities the inhabitants
of the southern and western parts of the county,
and they have thus contributed in no slight de-
gree to the comfort and respectability of the place.
" Few towns," said the writer of the New Statistical
Account in 1844, "are better supplied with bread,
butcher-meat, groceries, and garden produce. We
have an extensive iron-foundry, a gas-work, a
brewery, several curriers and tanners, builders, car-
penters, and cabinet-makers in good employment,
manufacturers of felt and beaver hats, straw-hats
and woollen stuffs, besides extensive dealers in meal,
flour, and barley, tobacco, saddlery, drapery, shoes,
hard- ware, and earthenware. In short, almost every
article that the present improved condition of society
requires may be obtained here in abundance, and of
the most approved description." There are also in
the vicinity on the North Esk two extensive com-
mills and a woollen manufactory. Fairs for cattle and
horses are held on the first Thursday of May after
Rutherglen, and on the third Tuesday of October ;
and hiring fairs are held on the first Thursday of
April, and the second Thursday of October. The
principal inns are the Cross Keys and the Buck's
Head. The town has an office of the Boyal Bank,
an office of the Commercial Bank, an office of the
National Bank, an office of the Clydesdale Bank, a
savings' bank, a circulating library, a subscription
library, a total abstinence society, a charity work-
house, and several benevolent institutions and
friendly societies. During the summer season,
Dalkeith is much resorted to by parties of pleasure
from Edinburgh.
The town is governed by a baron-bailie under the
Duke of Buccleuch. Originally the baronial right
belonged to the family of Graham, and subsequently
to that of Douglas. In 1642, it was acquired by the
family of Buccleuch. Previous to 1759, Dalkeith,
like other burghs of barony, was entirely regulated
by the superior and his bailies ; but, in that year, a
statute was obtained appointing certain trustees to
superintend the paving, cleaning, and lighting of
the streets, and to supply the inhabitants with water ;
and providing a revenue for these purposes by im-
posing a small tax on the ale, porter, and beer con-
sumed in the parish. The powers conferred by this
act have been continued and extended by subsequent
statutes, which acknowledge — and, to some extent,
preserve — the influence of the feudal superior, by
investing the baron-bailie, for the time being, with
the powers of a trustee. The direct and proper juris-
diction of the baron-bailie is very limited, extending
only in criminal affairs to the imposition of small
fines, or to imprisonment for one night ; and, in civil
matters, to granting warrants at the instance of land-
lords for the sale of their tenants' furniture in order
to recovery of rent. More serious cases are referred
DALE'S LAW.
356
DALMALKX.
to the sheriff of the comity, and all matters of local
police regulation are taken up by the trustees. Va-
cancies occurring in the office of trustee are filled up
by the surviving members, who are understood to
select for this distinction individuals who have been
nominated by or are believed to be agreeable to the
bailie Being self-elected, and holding the office
during life, the trustees are entirely independent of
the inhabitants ; yet it must be stated to their honour
that, as a body, they have never interfered with po-
litics, and that the prudence and attention with
which they have discharged their gratuitous duties
could scarcely have been increased by any amount
of popular control. Indeed, it may be truly affirmed
that Dalkeith is one of the cheapest and best go-
verned towns in the country. The customs are
leased from the superior by trustees under local acts,
at a rent of £100. Their produce is about £250.
The trustees administer a revenue of about £800.
The town is well paved, well lighted, well provided
with water, and kept remarkably clean. A night-
watch is maintained by voluntary subscription. A
sheriff circuit small debt court is held on the last
Thursday of every month except September. The
town is a station of the Edinburgh county police.
Among many distinguished natives of Dalkeith, or
persons who were intimately connected with it, may
be mentioned John Rolland, a poet of the 16th
century, Lord Polton, a lord of session in the be •
ginning of the 18th century, Dr. Pitcaim, Principal
Robertson, Lord Melville, Lord Loughborough, Dr.
Hope, Mr. Mushet, and Mr. John Kay. Population
of the town in 1841, 4,831 ; in 1881, 5,396. Houses,
610.
DALKEITH RAILWAY. See Edinbukgh and
Dalkeith Railway.
DALE'S LAW, a hill on the border of Colding-
ham moor, Berwickshire, rising 634 feet above sea-
level.
DALLARUIN. See Campbeltok.
DALLAS, or Dollas, a parish, containing a post-
office village of its own name, in the centre of Moray-
shire. It is bounded by Elgin, Birnie, Rothes,
Knockando, Edenkillie, and Rafford. It extends
about 12 miles from east to west, and 9 from north
to south ; but its mean breadth, taken across from
the southern side of the hill of Melundy, measures
only about 6 miles. It is surrounded by hills so as
to form a valley or strath, almost equally divided
from south-west to north-east by the small river
Lossie, which issues from a small loch on the south-
western extremity of the parish, due south of the
manse. Several burns or rivulets, rushing down
from the hills on both sides, join the Lossie nearly
at right angles to its course. But a part of Dallas,
the estate of Craigmill, lies isolated in the southern
end of the valley of Rafford parish. Through this
estate the stream of the Lochty, a tributary to the
Lossie, runs eastward through a narrow cut in the
rocky hill, to loiter in the vale of Pluscarden. This
cut appears as if made merely for the passage of the
Lochty, and it would be easy to turn the stream
northward by Rafford church, if that was not its
original course. The greater part of Dallas parish,
however, lies on the south side of the hill of Melun-
dy, which is stretched between the courses of the
Loehty and the Lossie. A great part of the plain
on the south side of the hill of Melundy must have
been a lake, when the Lossie occupied a channel
about 3 feet higher than the bottom of its present
bed ; and, except a pool still covering a few acres,
the whole of this plain is now a deep extensive bed
of pure peat-earth : thence probably arose the Gaelic
name Dale-Uisk, contracted into Dallas, 'the Water-
valley.' The live produce is generally sent to
market for sale at Elgin and Forres, to which also
excellent peats are sent from inexhaustible mosses.
There are considerable plantations and coppices,
particularly on the hills of Melundy and Wangie.
There are also excellent quarries of freestone, with
great abundance of grey slate. There are some
chalybeate springs. During summer there is good
fishing in the Lossie for fine small trout ; and, in
September and October, for finnac or white trout,
and a few small salmon. The landowners are the
Earl of Fife, Cumming of Altyre, and Grant of
Wester Elches. The chief antiquity is the ruin of
Torcastle, the ancient stronghold of the Cumrnings,
built in the year 1400, and situated on the side of
Dorrel bum, at the foot of Wangie hill. The parish
is traversed up the valley of the Lossie by the west
road from Elgin to Knockando. The village of
Dallas is situated on that road, 9 miles south-east of
Forres, and 12 south-south-west of Elgin. It was
feued about 55 years ago by Sir Alexander Pen-
rose Cumming, and in 1842 contained 32 houses.
The eastern district of the parish bears the name of
Kelles. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,153 ; in
1861, 1,102. Houses, 206. Assessed property in
1843, £2,912 18s. 3d.; in 1860, £4,781.
This parish is in the presbytery of Forres, and
synod of Moray. Upon the annexation of Altyre
to the parish of Rafford — and whicli formerly be-
longed to Dallas — Kelles, and part of the parish of
Elgin, were annexed to Dallas. This took place in
1657. Patron, Gordon Cumming of Altyre. Sti-
pend, £158 6s. 8d.; glebe, £11. Schoolmaster's
salary, now £52 10s., with from £10 to £12 fees, and
a share of the Dick bequest. Previous to 1794,
when the present church was built, the church-
service was performed in a very ancient fabric,
thatched with heath, and without windows, save
two or three narrow slits which yawned to a veiy
undue width within. The effigy of St. Michael, the
patron, stood weather-beaten in a niche near the top
of the eastern gable without. In the churchyard a
neatly cut stone column, 12 feet high, terminated
by a well-formed fleur-de-lis for its capital, was then
used, and afterwards remained in use, as the market-
cross, for the sale of bankrupts' effects, cattle, &c.
The present church and manse are commodious
buildings, though, being near the Lossie, both are
in some danger of being swept away. There is a
Free church : attendance, 300 ; sum raised in 1865,
£98 17s. 9d. There are two non-parochial schools, —
one of them endowed, at the east end of the parish,
on the lands of the Earl of Fife.
DALLINTOBEE. See Dalintobee.
DALMAHOY, an estate in the parish of Rathu,
Edinburghshire. It anciently belonged to the
family of Dalmahoy, who figured among the great
barons so early as the 13th century. It passed, in
the middle of the 17th century, into the possession
of the Dalryniples ; and was purchased from them,
about 115 years ago, by the Earl of Morton. It
comprises between one-fourth and one-third of the
parish, and continues to form part of the Morton
estates. The mansion was built in the early part of
last century, but has received several additions.
The grounds within the park abound in beauty, and
command some fine far-away views. Dalmahoy
crag's, rising to the height of 680 feet at the south-
ern extremity of the parish, and stooping precipi-
tously to the west, constitute a grand feature in the
general landscape of the western Lothians. There
is an Episcopalian chapel at Dalmahoy.
DALMALLY, a post-office village in the parish
of Glenorchy, Argyleshire. It stands on the mili-
tary road from Oban to Dumbarton, in the mouth
of the glen of Orchy, at the head of Loch Awe, 12J
DALMARNOCK.
357
DALMELLINGTON.
miles west of Tyndrum, and 1G north-north-east of
Invcrary. The scenery around it is grandly pic-
turesque, with many features of the beautiful. The
houses of the village aro nestled among trees, and
at the same time command impressive views of the
landscape. Both the old church of Glenorchy and
the new one are within sight, — the former sur-
rounded by the burying-place of the Macgregors,
containing many ancient gravestones with sculp-
tured figures of armed warriors, — the latter stand-
ing with a Gothic spire in an islet of the Orehy.
The village contains an excellent inn. Here also
arc the church and manse of the Free church of
Glenorchy, and the manse of the parish church.
A fair is held on the Friday of October after Kil-
michael. See Glenorcht.
DALMAOLKERAN. See Daiixy.
DALMARNOCK, a hamlet, 3 miles north of In-
ver, parish of Little Dunkeld, Perthshire.
DALMARNOCK, a meadowy stretch of the banks
of the Clyde, in the south-eastern environs of Glas-
gow. A timber bridge was constructed here about
25 years ago to carry over from Glasgow a short
new road to the collieries of Rutherglen and Cam-
buslang. The Clyde at this place and its vicinity
possesses considerable natural soft beauty, but is
dimmed with the smoke of iron-works, collieries,
and factories. Hence did John Struthers say, —
" Now through his far-famed fields of coal,
By furnace-blazing Boggleshole,
By old Dalmarnock's haughs so wide,
And Ruglen's royal burgh decay'd,
With dye vats chok'd, with engines deav'd,
And countless nuisances mischieved,
In clouds of smoke his blushes hiding,
The Clyde is seen, all silent, gliding."
DALMELLING. See Daoiullin.
DALMELLINGTON, a parish, containing the
post town of Dalmellington, and the villages of Wa-
terside and Craigmark, in the district of Kyle, Ayr-
shire. It is bounded on the north by Ochiltree ; on
the east by New Cumnock; on the south-east by
Kircudbrightshire ; on the south-west by Loch
Doon and Doon water, which divide it from Straiton ;
and on the west by Dalrymple. It has nearly a
triangular figure, the longest side being from north-
west to south-east along the Doon ; and it measures,
in extreme length, 10 miles, — in average breadth
about 3. Along the Doon, over a distance of 3
miles, a plain or very gentle slope stretches inward,
of nearly the figure of a crescent, narrowed to a
point at both extremities, and measuring about a
mile at its central or greatest width. Behind this
plain the whole parish rises upward in continuous
eminences or mountain ridges. The ridge nearest
the Doon closes that river closely in at the north-
western angle of the parish, extends away eastward,
limiting the lowlands, and abruptly terminates to
the north-east of the village, in a splendid colon-
nade of basalt, 300 feet in height, and 600 in length.
Two other ridges run south-eastward and south-
ward, and are connected at the north end by a ridge
coming down upon them westward from the parish
of New-Cumuock. Though the hills are in general
easy of ascent, and in only three places are, for a
short way, precipitous, yet they form gorges and
mountain-passes of fascinating interest, and, in one
or two instances, of peculiar grandeur. Along the
road from the village of Dalmellington to Carsphaim
in Kirkcudbrightshire, two ridges approach for up-
wards of a mile so nearly to an embrace as to leave
at their bases barely sufficient space for the public
road and the bed of a mountain-rill. At the ex-
tremity of the range, also, where the river Doon
issues from its picturesque mountain-cradled lake,
rocky, perpendicular elevations, whose summits
rise 300 feet above the level of the river, are, for
about a mile, so brief a space asunder as to seem
cloven by some powerful agency from above, or torn
apart by some convulsive heave beneath their base.
The narrow, stupendously walled pass between is
called the glen of Ness, and opens, at its north-
western extremity, into the lowlands, or crescent-
figured plain, of the parish. The river Doon escapes
from the loch by two narrow channels in the naked
rock, dashes impetuously along the glen of Ness,
and afterwards moves slowly forward among mea-
dowy banks, receiving in its progress the waters of
several rills, or occasionally swollen and inundating
torrents, from the inland heights. The springs of
the parish are pure and limpid, and flow, for the
most part, from beds of sand and gravel. Nearly a
mile from the south-eastern boundary, and sur-
rounded by heathy moorland, is a small lake of about
25 or 30 acres in area, the waters of which are dark
and very deep, and abound in black trout. The
soil, on the plain along the Doon, is a strong, rich,
clayey loam ; around the town, is dry and gravelly ;
and behind the Doon, or lower range of hills, is
moss or moorland. About f of a mile below the
town is a morass of about 150 acres, resting on a
spongy bed, and embosoming some oaks of con-
siderable size. Coal — the most southerly of the
Ayrshire field, but prime in quality — is worked
from deep seams, and affords a supply to places in
Galloway even 30 miles distant. Sandstone, lime-
stone, and ironstone aboimd.
Nearly the whole of the parish is the property of
the Hon. F. Macadam Cathcart of Craigengillan.
The yearly value of raw produce was estimated in
1837, at £8,739. But in 1847 extensive works were
erected, together with the villages of Waterside and
Craigmark, by the Dalmellington Iron Company;
and very soon three large furnaces were in blast,
and preparations were made for eight others. A
railway, opened in 1856, goes to Ayr, and has sta-
tions in the parish at Dalmellington village and
Waterside. The parish is also traversed by two great
lines of road parallel to the Doon, one of them the
direct road from Ayr to Dumfries ; and by a line of
road north-eastward, leading from the village of
Dalmellington to that of New-Cumnock; and it is
abundantly accommodated with bridges for these
and for by-roads, there being 6 across the Doon, and
9 or 10 across the smaller streams. A very old
house in the village of Dalmellington bearing the
inscription 1003, is called Castle-house, owing, as
is supposed, to its having been built of materials
taken from an ancient castle in the vicinity,
called Dame Helen's castle. Between the towir
and the site of that castle is a beautiful moat, sur-
rounded with a deep, dry fosse. On a precipitous
cliff in a deep glen, protected on three sides by the
perpendicular rock, and on the fourth by a fosse,
stood formerly a fastness, which, from some storied
connection with Alpine, king of Scotland, gives to
its site the name of Lacht Alpine. In the uplands
were, at one time, three very large caims, one of
them upwards of 100 yards in circumference, and
all covering vast masses of human bones. A Ro-
man road, coming up from Dumfries-shire and
Kirkcudbrightshire, and measuring 10 or 11 feet
broad, formerly traversed the parish from south-east
to north-west, and passed from it into Dalrymple.
Dalmellington figured largely in the affecting scenes
of the persecution under the Stuarts, and abounds
in traditions respecting the sufferings of the Cove-
nanters. Wodrow represents it as having been
watched and oppressed with such large bodies of
troops, that, at one period, they must have been
more numerous than the inhabitants; and, while
DALMENY.
358
DALMIGAVIE.
giving detailed accounts of the heavy and multi-
form local grievances which they inflicted, he says,
" Had materials come to my hand as distinctly from
the rest of the country as from this parish, what a
black view we might have had!" Population in
1831, 1,056; in 1861, 4,194. Houses, 618. The
great increase of the population has arisen from the
erection of the iron-works. Assessed property in
1843, £3,678 15s. 7d.; in 1860, £17,735.
This parish, formerly a vicarage of the chapel-royal
of Stirling, is in the presbytery of Ayr, and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£1 58 6s. 8d.; glebe, £20. Schoolmaster's salary,
now is £50, with £10 fees. The parish church
was built in 1846, and contains 640 sittings. It is
an elegant Saxon edifice, with a lofty tower. There
are at Waterside and Craigmark two preaching-sta-
tions belonging to the Established church, endowed
by the Daltnellington Iron Company. There is a
Free church for Dalmellington and Carsphairn, a
very neat building, with about 400 sittings. There
are four non-parochial schools.
The Town op Dalmellington is an ancient burgh
of barony. It stands on the Ayr and Dumfries road,
in a recess, sheltered by the hills, about f- of a mile
north-east of the Doon. It is a thriving place, and
promises to advance rapidly in prosperity. It has
a woollen mill, a dye-work, and a number of pri-
vate looms. Fairs are held on Fastern's E'en,
Halloween, and the first Friday after Whitsun-
day, all old style. Here are a branch of the
Clydesdale Bank, a subscription library, a read-
ing-room and library, and several pretty good
inns. Population, 1,299.
DALMENNOCK BAY. See Locn Ryan.
DALMENY, a parish, consisting of a main body
and a detached district, in the north-east of Linlith-
gowshire. The main body surrounds the post-town
of Queensferry, except on the shore side, and con-
tains some of that town's outskirts ; and it is bounded
by the frith of Forth, Cramond, Edinburghshire,
Kirkliston, and Abercorn. Its extreme length, east
and west, is 5 J miles ; and its extreme breadth is 3%
miles. The detached district lies a mile south-west
of the south-western corner of the main body, and
one- third of a mile west of the post-town of Winch-
burgh; and is bounded by Abercorn, Kirkliston,
and Ecclesmachan. Its greatest length is If mile,
and its greatest breadth 1 mile. The surface of the
main body is high in the central district, declines
somewhat to the west, has a very considerable de-
clivity to the south, and slopes still more rapidly to
the north, where it terminates in a bold bank upon
the Forth. Toward the east are three rocky ridges
or hills, covered with wood, called Mons, Dundas,
and Craigie. The summits of all these, but espe-
cially that of Mons-hill, place an observer in the
midst of a vast and most beautiful and varied pan-
orama, bounded only by the limits of vision or the
hazily seen summits of the great mountain ranges
of Scotland. The Forth, with its thousand attrac-
tions, glitters in nearly all its length before the
view ; the Lothians and the most cultivated districts
of conterminous counties, are spread out with the
distinctness of a map; and the spectator, delight-
fully perplexed with the importunings of competing
beauties which everywhere demand his notice, finds
no repose to his eye till it rests on the heights of
Lammermoor or the far-seen cap of Benlomond.
Immediately beneath him, in the parish itself, is a
landscape of no common beauty. The plantations of
the Earl of Eoseberr y , his antiquated but picturesque
castle, situated within sea-mark, and his charming
J>ark of Barnbougle, with its bold undulations of
iciglit and lawn, constitute, with the other attrac-
tions of the district, a truly fascinating picture.
Nearly the whole parish is well-cultivated, well-en-
closed, sheltered and beautified with plantation, and
cheeringly productive; and it is adorned, not only
by the mansion and grounds of Lord Eoseberry, but
by those of Craigie hall and Dundas castle. The
soil of the higher grounds, and of the detached dis-
trict, is, in general, a shallow clay on a cold bottom ;
on the declivities and the low grounds, it is a rich
loam ; and, in a few spots, it is what has been termed
perpetual soil, requiring little manure, and exceed-
ingly fertile. On the coast is a vast bed of prime
freestone, which has been extensively worked to
supply places far distant with materials for orna-
mental building. Limestone and ironstone also are
found.
At the west end of Queensferry, close by the
shore, are vestiges of a monastery, founded about
the year 1330, by one of the lairds of Dundas, for
Carmelite friars. Farther west, upon a high sea-
bank, there were, 100 years ago, interesting ruins,
consisting of a large carved window, a square pillar,
and a considerable quantity of hewn stones, probably
the remains of a Eoman speculatorium. Here were
found silver medals of Marcus Antoninus, with a
Victory on the reverse. But greatly the most in-
teresting antiquity is the parish church; which,
from the Saxon or mixedly Greek and Gothic style
of its architecture, seems to be 700 or 800 years old
The church of Warthwick, in England, near Car-
lisle, built before the times of William the Conqueror,
strikingly resembles it, but is greatly inferior in
richness and elaboration of embellishment. William
Wilkie, D.D., the author of ' The Epigoniad,' and
professor of natural philosophy at St. Andrews, was
a native of Dalmeny. Queen Victoria and Prince
Albert made a visit to Dalmeny Park on the day of
their public progress through Edinburgh in 1842.
The island of Inch-Garvey, in the frith of Forth,
belongs to Dalmeny. Assessed property in 1860,
£11,404; of which £340 were in fisheries and in
quarries. The small village of Dalmeny, consisting
of the church, the manse, the school-house, and
about a dozen cottages, is delightfully situated near
the centre of the main body of the parish, command-
ing a view of the Forth. There is also a hamlet of
Craigie. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,291 ;
in 1861, 1,274. Houses, 201.
This parish is in the presbytery of Linlithgow,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, the
Earl of Eoseberry. Stipend, £264 2s. Id.; glebe,
5J acres. Unappropriated teinds, £45 10s. lid.
Schoolmaster's salary, now £52 10s., with about £65
other emoluments. The church of Dalmeny was
formerly a vicarage of the monks of Jedburgh; and
had several altars with distinct and appropriate
revenues. The detached portion of the parish is
called Auldcathie, and, previous to the Beformation,
was a separate parish. Its church was of small
value, and has entirely disappeared. In 1636, the
territory coextensive with the burghal limits of
South Queensferry, was detached from Dalmeny,
aud constituted a separate parish. An ancient
chapel stood in this territory, built by Dundas of
Dundas, the ruins of which might recently have
been traced by antiquarian search. The present
parish church contains about 350 sittings.
DALMIGAVIE, an estate in the upper part of
the strath of the Findhom, and south-western dis-
trict of the parish of Moy and Dalarossie, Inverness-
shire. A principal feature of it is a grandly ro-
mantic gorge, called the Dell of Dalmigavie, where
steep and lofty hills rise on all sides, in regular form,
with green and purple attire, while the lower end
appears to be blocked by a fir-clad hill.
DALMORE.
359
DALRIADA.
DALMONACH. See Bonhill.
DALMOKE, an estate on the Water of Ayr,
parish of Stair, Ayrshire. The whetstones, known
throughout the country as Water-of-Ayr stones,
have long been manufactured in large quantity here.
DALMORE, a harbour in the parish of Kosskeen,
Koss-shire, where considerable quantities of fir and
other timber have been shipped for .Shields and
Newcastle. See Rosskeen.
DALMUIR, a post-office village in the parish of
Old Kilpatrick, Dumbartonshire. It stands about \
a mile from the Clyde, and has a station ou the Dum-
barton railway, 6J miles east-south-east of Dum-
barton. Here are paper-works, producing all kinds
of paper to the value of about £30,000 a-year. Pop-
ulation, 526. Houses, 89.
DALMUIR SHORE, a quondam village, till
about 1860, in Old Kilpatrick parish, Dumbarton-
shire ; on the Clyde, i a mile from Dalmuir. Here was
a soda-work, with furnaces, chimneys, and calcined
rubbish, which formed a great blot on the beauty of
the river scenery. Here also was a quay, of haggard
aspect, which had been in existence beyond the
memory of man. Pop., 187. Houses, 27.
DALMULLIN, or Dalmelling, a locality in the
parish of St. Quivox, Ayrshire, where was a monas-
tery of Gilbertines, founded by Walter, Lord-high-
steward of Scotland; but the air of the country not
agreeing with the monks and nuns — who had been
brought, from Sixhill, in the county of Lincoln — they
returned into England, whereupon all their rents
were disponed by the said Walter to the monastery
of Paisley, and the buildings went to decay. Wal-
ter also founded here a convent of Black or Bene-
dictine nuns.
DALMYOT. See Dohmyat.
DALNACARDOCH, a stage inn in the parish of
Blair-Athole, Perthshire, on the Great Highland
road from Edinburgh to Inverness, 86 miles from
Edinburgh, and 70 from Inverness.
DALNASPIDAL, a wild mountainous locality,
with a shooting lodge, and with a station on the
Highland railway, near the head of the river Garry,
about 2 miles south of the water-shed of the Central
Grampians, and about 5 miles north-west of Dalna-
cardoch, in the parish of Blair-Athole, Perthshire.
" On the bleak surface of the moors here," say the
Messrs. Anderson, in their Guide to the Highlands,
" are numerous pillars and cairns, memorials of
those who have perished in the snow, or fallen fight-
ing for their homes and kindred. The marks of an
encampment of a party of Cromwell's troops still
exist at Dalnaspidal, where they received a check
from the Athole men and some of the Camerons of
Lochiel. Here, too, General Cope drew up his army,
iu expectation of being attacked by the Highlanders,
in 1745, whilst they awaited him on the northern
side of Corryarrick, and by his ill-advised manoeuvre
in quitting his post, and marching onwards, left the
road open to the insurgents. And, here, early in
the year 1746, Lord George Murray planned and
executed a series of attacks en various posts held by
the royalists. A battalion of the Athole brigade,
and a body of Macphersons, commanded by their
chief Cluny, — that is to say common peasants, and
a few country gentlemen without military experi-
ence,— under Lord George's directions, successfully
surprised and carried twenty detached strong and
defensible post6, all within two hours of the night ;
and the different parties punctually met at the
appointed place of rendezvous, though their opera-
tions lay in a rugged mountainous country. Of this
exploit, General Stewart of Garth in his ' Sketches '
says, ' I know not if the whole of the Peninsular
campaigns exhibited a more perfect execution of a
complicated piece of military service.' Lord George
had himself marched to the Bridge of Braar, with
twenty-five men and a few elderly gentlemen, when
he was informed that Sir Andrew Agnew, who held
the castle of Blair, was advancing with a strong
force to reconnoitre. In the words of Home, 'It
was daylight; but the sun was not up. Lord George,
looking earnestly about him, observed a fold-dike
(that is a wall of turf) which had been begun
as a fence for cattle, but left unfinished. He ordered
his men to follow him, and draw up behind the dike,
at such a distance one from another, that they might
make a great show, having the colours of both
regiments flying in the front. He then gave orders
to the pipers (for he had with him the pipers both
of the Athole men and the Macphersons) to keep
their eyes fixed on the road from Blair, and the
moment they saw the soldiers appear, to strike up
with all their bagpipes at once. It happened that
the regiments came in sight just as the sun rose,
and that instant the pipers began to play one of
their most noisy pibrochs. Lord George and his
Highlanders, both officers and men, drawing their
swords, brandished them about their heads. Sir
Andrew, after gazing a while at this spectacle,
ordered his men to the right-about, and marched
them back to the Castle of Blair. Lord George kept
his post till several of his parties came in ; and as
soon as he had collected 300 or 400 men, secure of
victory, and certain that his numbers would very
soon be greater, he marched to Blair, and invested
the castle.' "
DALNESS, a romantic water-fall, in Glen-Etire.
Argyleshire.
DALNOTTER. See Kilpatrick (West).
DALQUHARRAN. See Girvajj (The).
DALQUHOUN. See Caedkoss.
DALREE. See Dairy.
DALREOCH, a station on the Vale of Leven
railway, midway between Dumbarton and Renton,
Dumbartonshire.
DALREOCH, a locality in the parish of Dunning,
Perthshire, where there is an United Presbyterian
church.
DALRIADA, the original principality of the
Scots in the territory which afterwards became Ar-
gyleshire,— hut, still earlier, the principality on the
north-east coast of Ireland with which the original
Scots were connected. The natives of the latter
principality, who were a branch of the great Celtic
family, are generally supposed to have found their
way into Ireland from the western shores of North
Britain. They appear to have become divided into
two tribes or clans, the most powerful of which
was called Cruithne or Cruithnich, — a term said to
mean eaters of com or wheat, from the tribe being
addicted to agricultural pursuits. The quarrels be-
tween these two rival tribes were frequent, and
grew to such a height of violence, about the middle
of the third century, as to call for the interference
of Cormac, who then ruled as King of Ireland ; and
it is said that Cairbre-Riada, the general and cousin
of King Cormae, conquered a territory in the north-
east comer of Ireland, of about thirty miles in ex-
tent, possessed by the Cruithne. This tract was
granted by the King to his general, and was deno-
minated Dal-Riada, or ' the Portion of Riada,' over
which Cairbre and his posterity reigned for several
ages, under the protection of their relations, the
sovereigns of Ireland. The Cruithne of Ireland and
the Piets of North Britain being of the same lineage
and language, kept up, according to O'Connor, a
constant communication with each other; and it
seems to be satisfactorily established that a colony
of the Dalriads or Gruithne of Ireland, had settled
DALRIADA.
360
DALRY.
at a very early period in Argyle, from which they
were ultimately expelled and driven back to Ireland
about the period of the abdication by the Romans,
of the government of North Britain, in the year
446. In the year 503, a new colony of the Dalriads,
under the direction of three brothers, named Lorn,
Fergus, and Angus, the sons of Ere, the descendant
of Cairbre-Riada, settled in the country of the
British Epidii, near the Epidian promontory of
Richard and Ptolemy, named afterwards by the
colonists Ceantir or ' Head-land,' now known by
the name of Kintyre.
History has thrown but little light on the causes
which led to this settlement, afterwards so impor-
tant in the annals of Scotland ; and a question has
even been raised whether it was obtained by force
or favour. In proof of the first supposition it has
been observed, that the headland of Kintyre, which
forms a very narrow peninsula and runs far into the
Deucaledonian sea, towards the nearest coast of
Ireland, being separated by lofty mountains from
the Caledonian continent, was in that age very
thinly peopled by the Cambro-Britons ; that these
descendants of the Epidii were little connected with
the central clans, and still less considered by the
Pictish government, which, perhaps, was not yet
sufficiently refined to be very jealous of its rights,
or to be promptly resentful of its wrongs ; and that
Drest-Gurthinmoch then reigned over the Picts,
and certainly resided at a great distance beyond
Drum-Albyn. It is also to be observed, in further
corroboration of this view, that Lorn, Fergus, and
Angus, brought few followers with them; and
though they were doubtless joined by subsequent
colonists, they were, for some time, occupied with
the necessary but uninteresting labours of settle-
ment within their appropriate districts. Kintyre
was the portion of Fergus ; Lorn possessed Lom, to
which he gave his name ; and Angus is supposed to
have colonized Islay, for it was enjoyed by Mure-
dach, the son of Angus, after his decease. Thus
these three princes or chiefs had each his own tribe
and territory, according to the accustomed usage of
the Celts, — a system which involved them frequently
in the miseries of civil war, and in questions of dis-
puted succession.
There is no portion of history so obscure or so
perplexed as that of the Scoto-Irish Kings and their
tribes, from their first settlement, in the year 503,
to their accession to the Pictish throne in 843.
Unfortunately no contemporaneous written records
appear ever to have existed of that dark period of
our annals, and the efforts which the Scotch and
Irish antiquaries have made to extricate the truth
from the mass of contradictions in which it lies
buried, have rather been displays of national preju-
dice than calm researches by reasonable inquirers.
The annals, however, of Tigemach, and of Ulster,
and the useful observations of O'Flaherty and
O'Connor, along with the brief chronicles and histo-
rical documents, first brought to light by the indus-
trious Innes, in his ' Critical Essay ' — a work praised
even by Pinkerton — have thrown some glimpses
of light on a subject which had long remained in
almost total darkness, and been rendered still more
obscure by the fables of our older historians. Some
of the causes which have rendered this part of our
history so perplexed are thus stated by Chalmers in
his Caledonia: — " 1st. The sovereignty was not
transmitted by the strict line of hereditary descent.
There were three great families, who, as they
sprang from the royal stock, occasionally grew up
into the royal stem; two of these were descended
troin Fergus I. by his grandsons, Comgal and Gau-
ran: the third was descended from Lorn, the
brother of Fergus. This circumstance naturally
produced frequent contests and civil wars for tho
sovereignty, which, from those causes, was some-
times split; and the representatives of Fergus and
Lom reigned independently over their separate ter-
ritories at the same time. The confusion which all
this had produced can only be cleared up by trac-
ing, as far as possible, the history of these different
families, and developing the civil contests which
existed among them. 2d. Much perplexity has
been produced by the mistakes and omissions of the
Gaelic bard, who composed the Albanic Duan, par-
ticularly in the latter part of the series, where he
has, erroneously, introduced several supposititious
Kings, from the Pictish catalogue. These mistakes
having been adopted by those writers whose object
was rather to support a system than to unravel the
history of the Scottish monarchs, have increased,
rather than diminished the confusion." Although
the Dalriads had embraced Christianity before their
arrival in Argyle, they do not appear to have been
anxious to introduce it among the Caledonians or
Picts. Their patron-saint was Kiaran, the son of a
carpenter. He was a prelate of great fame, and
several churches in Argyle and Ayrshire were dedi-
cated to him. The ruins of Kilkerran, a church
dedicated to Kiaran, may still be seen near Camp-
belton in Kintyre. At Kil-kiaran, in Islay, Kil-
kiaran in Lismore, and Kilkerran in Carrick, there
were chapels dedicated, as the names indicate, to
Kiaran. Whatever were the causes which pre-
vented the Dahiads from attempting the conversion
of their neighbours, they were destined at no dis-
tant period from the era of the Dalriadic settlement,
to receive the blessings of the true religion, from
the teaching of St. Columba, a monk of high family
descent, and cousin of Scoto-Irish Kings. See Ioxa.
DALEIGH. See Daley.
DALRUADHAIN. See Cahpbelton.
DALRULZEON. See Captjth.
DALRY, Daleee, or Dalkigh, a locality near
Tyndrum, on the western border of Perthshire,
where a severe conflict took place between Robert
the Bruce and Macdougall, the Lord of Lorn.
Brace's force was but a handful, and had just been
skulking like hunted deer among the fastnesses ol
the Central Grampians, so far as to Aberdeenshire.
Lorn's army amounted to upwards of a thousand,
and were fresh and full of hope. The clash and
fury of the conflict were terrible. Both sides fought
with steel, and thrust and tugged in the closest en-
counter : and says Barbour, —
" The King's folk full well them bare
And slew and felled and wounded sare:
But the folk of the other party
Fought with axes most fellily."
Two of Bruce's chief knights were soon wounded;
and the whole of his small band, though holding
doggedly to the conflict, felt speedily compelled to
yield ground. Bruce led them cautiously off in re-
treat, but conducted this with a steadiness, a dex-
terity, and a valour which rendered it only a moving
continuation of the battle. Barbour tells a story,
perhaps with some embellishment of circumstances,
that three of Lorn's men, "the hardiest of hand in
all the country," resolved to slay Bruce in the re-
treat, or perish, — that they made a simultaneous
attack upon him at a choking part of a gorge, where
he had scarcely room to turn his horse, — and that
he struck off the arm of one, clove another " on the
head to the hams," and slew outright and single-
handedly all the three, so as to strike awe into all
their comrades who were coming on behind.
" Bruce's personal strength and courage," says Sir
DALEY.
3G1
DALRY.
Walter Scott, " were never displayed to greater ad-
vantage than in this conflict. There is a tradition
in the family of the Maedougalls of Lorn, that their
chieftain engaged in personal battle with Bruce
himself, while the latter was employed in protecting
the retreat of his men ; that Macdougall was struck
down by the King, whose strength of body was
equal to his vigour of mind, and would have been
slain on the spot, had not two of Lorn's vassals, a
father and a son, whom tradition terms M'Keoch,
rescued him, by seizing the mantle of the monarch,
and dragging him from above his adversary. Bruce
rid himself of these foes, by two blows of his re-
doubted battle-axe, but was so closely pressed by
the other followers of Lorn, that he was forced to
abandon the mantle and the brooch which fastened
it, clasped in the dying grasp of the M'Keochs."
This brooch became an heir-loom of the Macdou-
galls, and is still in their possession. It has ever
been famous among antiquaries, under the name of
the Brooch of Lorn, and is both one of the costliest
and one of the most beautiful relies of Scottish anti-
quity. The bard of Lom apostrophises it as follows
in "the Lord of the Isles:" —
" Whence the brooch of burning gold,
That clasps the chieftain's mantlefold,
Wrought and chased with rare device,
Studded fair with gems of price,
On the varied tartans beaming,
As through night's pale rainbow gleaming,
Fainter now, now seen afar.
Fitful shines the northern star?"
DALRY, a parish, containing a post-town of its
own name, near the centre of the district of Cun-
ningham, Ayrshire. It is bounded by Kilbirnie,
Beith, Kilwinning, Ardrossan, West Kilbride, and
Largs. Its extreme length, from north to south, is
about 10 miles ; and its breadth varies from li to 9.
It is narrowest in the middle; is nearly dissevered
toward the north by the parish of Largs; sends out
an arm 3 miles northward from its main body;
and is, in consequence, of extremely irregular out-
line. The surface consists principally of four vales,
with their intervening and overshadowing uplands.
The principal vale stretches south-westward along
its eastern division, and varies from a mile to £ a
mile in breadth. This vale is watered by the mean-
derings of the river Garnock, and abounds in ferti-
lity and the beauties of agricultural landscape.
The other parts of the parish, though well-watered
with the Bye, the Caaf, and other streams flowing
south-eastward and falling into the Garnock, are in
general hilly, and in some parts, especially toward
the north, pretty lofty. Baidland- hill, between the
Caaf and the Eye, rises 946 feet; and Carwinning-
hill, to the eastward of the Rye, rises 634 above the
level of the sea. At Auchinskich, 2 miles from the
village, in a romantic and sylvan dell, is a natural
cave, 183 feet in length, and from 5 to 12 in breadth
and height, stretching away into the bowels of a
precipitous limestone crag, and ceiled and panelled
with calcareous incrustations which give it the ap-
pearance of Gothic arched work. Coal, at a compa-
ratively inconsiderable depth, is, in three places,
worked from seams of from 2£ to 5 feet thick.
Limestone abounds in strata of unusual thickness,
and in general embosoms numerous petrifactions.
Ironstone of excellent quality is plentiful, and has
of late years been smelted in extensive furnaces,
belonging to four great iron companies, — the Ayr-
shire, the Gleugarnock, the Eglinton, and the
Blair. The iron- works began to get into extensive
operation in 1S45, and made great changes on the
face of the landscape. A public writer in that year
remarked, — "Were a visitant to clamber to one of
tho heights, and take a panoramic view of tho
plains below, he would, if he knew the place only a
few years ago, he astonished at the change and at
the numerous tasks of the busy labourers. The
blaze of furnaces, the smoke of coal-pits, the whiter
volume emitted by limekilns, and the building of
houses, are at intervals seen all over the district.
Since the census in 1841, the parish has received an
accession of nearly one thousand. The value of
property has been greatly enhanced. The two
farms which the late Dr. Smith of Pitcon sold to
the Gleugarnock Iron Company for about £18,000,
were in a short time after sold to the Blair Iron
Company for £35,000. The ironstone is very rich,
and the quantity of it will ensure a supply for thirty
years at least." Agates have been found in the
Rye. In the holm-lands of the parish the soil is a
deep alluvial loam; along the base of the hills it is
light and dry ; in some districts the soil is clayey
and retentive ; and in others it is reclaimed and
cultivated moss. The principal landowners are
Blair of Blair and the Earl of Glasgow; but there
are very many others. The yearly value of raw
produce was estimated in 1836 at £31,345; oi
which, however, only £5,000 was from mines and
quarries. Assessed property in I860, £70,893; of
which so much as £45,683 was in the iron-works.
On the top of Carwinning-hill are vestiges
of an ancient fortification, two acres in area, and
formed of three concentric circular walls. Near
the end of the village is a mound called Court-
hill, — one of those moats, so common in Scotland,
on which justice was administered. Urns and
other antiquities have, in various localities, been
dug up. In this parish occurred in 1576 a parti-
cularly atrocious instance of death at the stake
for imputed witchcraft. Dairy was the birth-
place of Sir Biyce Blair, who resisted the usurpation
of Edward I., and the home of Captain Thomas
Crawford, who captured Dumbarton castle in the
reign of Mary. The parish is intersected by the
Glasgow and South-western railway, and is in other
respects well provided with means of communica-
tion. Population in 1831, 3,739; in 1861, 11,156.
Houses, 1,274.
This parish is in the presbytery of Irvine, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Blair of Blair.
Stipend, £231 10s. 6d.; glebe, £24. Unappropriated
teinds, £575 9s. lOd. Schoolmaster's salary now
is £56, with £65 fees. The parish church was
built in 1771, and contains 941 sittings. There are
in the town and in Kersland barony two other
places of worship connected with the Establish-
ment. There is a Free church, whose receipts in
1865 amounted to £331 Is. 8d. There is an United
Presbyterian church, with 508 sittings, and an at-
tendance of 350. There are an Evangelical Union
chapel and a Roman Catholic chapel. There are
two Assembly schools at Burnsideplace and Kersland
barony, a subscription school at Blairmains, a school
at Blair iron-work, a Free church school, a female
school of industry, and two private adventure
schools. Before the Reformation, the church of
Dairy belonged to the monastery of Kilwinning,
and was served by a vicar. On a rising ground to
the east of the Garnock, about a mile from the pre-
sent village, formerly stood a chapel, vestiges of
which have not long ago disappeared. At a greater
distance from the village are still some ruins of
another ancient chapel.
The Town of Daley is beautifully situated on a
rising ground on the right bank of the Garnock,
immediately below the confluence of the Rye with
that river, and not far above the confluence of the
Caaf. It commands an extensive view to the south-
DALEY.
362
DALEY.
and the north-east ; and, owing to the peculiar na-
ture of its site, and the liability to inundation of the
mountain streams by which its environs on three
sides are washed, it has sometimes the appearance
of lifting its head from a lake, and being seated on
an island. It is 16 miles from Paisley, 14 from
Kilmarnock, 5 from Beith, and 9 from Saltcoats.
Of no higher origin than the beginning of the 17th
century, and long existing as a mere hamlet, it has
eventually attained considerable prosperity. There
are five streets, three of which converge, and form
a sort of square or open area near the centre of the
town. The streets indicate the want of police, yet
are in a better condition than those of some other
towns. There are many well-built houses, and
some excellent shops. The principal manufacture
is weaving, which employs about 500 individuals.
But there are also a woollen carding and spinning-
mill and a considerable variety of artificers' work.
A gas-work was established so long ago as 1834.
The town has offices of the City of Glasgow and
Clydesdale Banks, four insurance offices, a free Gar-
dener's lodge, and several libraries and friendly
societies. The principal inns are the White Hart,
the King's Arms, and the Blair Arms. Six fairs are
held, or entitled to be held, in the year ; but they
are little more than nominal, — the largest on the
last day of July. Population iu 1836, about 2,000 ;
in 1861, 4,232. Houses, 343.
DALEY, a parish, containing a post-office village
of its own name, in the north-east extremity of
Kirkcudbrightshire. It is bounded by the counties
of Ayr and Dumfries, and the parishes of Balmac-
lellan, Kells, and Carsphairn. It is of the form of
a triangle, having a small parallelogram resting on
its northern angle, and presenting its apex, or
greatest angle, to the east. Its greatest length,
from the confluence of Grapel burn with Ken
water on the south, to a point north-eastward of
Blaek-Larg-hill on the north, is 14 miles; and its
greatest breadth, from the confluence of Deugh
water and Ken water on the west, to the point
where Cairn water leaves it on the east, is 1\ miles.
Over a distance of 15 miles, following the sinuosi-
ties of the stream, Ken water forms its north-
western, western, and south-western boundary; and
over the southern half of that distance it flows
through a fine vale, richly tufted with natural
woods. But even behind this vale, as well as
through all the other districts, the parish is almost
entirely pastoral and hilly. Toward the north, and
along the eastern boundary, it is very mountainous;
and it terminates northward in the towering emi-
nence of Black Larg, which rises 2,890 feet above
the level of the sea. Garpel burn, which flows
south-westward into Ken water, and Cairn water,
which flows north-eastward into Dumfries- shire,
along with an intermediate boundary-line of only
about a mile, divide the parish from Balmaclellan,
or form one of the sides of its triangle. Numerous
mountain-brooks rise in the interior ; a few of which
flow southward into Capel burn, and the most west-
ward into Ken water. Lochinvar, near the centre
of the southern division, is a sheet of water little
less than 3 miles in circumference ; and, as well as
the smaller lakes, Boston, Knocksting, and Knock-
man, contains excellent trout, and is much fre-
quented by fishers. Pike, trout, and salmon abound
in the Ken. The salmon, however, except in high
floods, cannot ascend higher than to a linn or cas-
cade at Earlston, and they there often excite obser-
vation by repeated and exhausting, though gene-
rally vain leaps, to surmount the water-spouts which
repel their further progress. The parish is tra-
versed by a road along its western limit, down the
vale of the Ken ; by another along its south-west-
em limit, chiefly on the banks of the Capel and the
Cairn ; and by a third, among the mountain-gorges
from east to west, about midway between the
northern and the southern extremities. In Loch-
invar are the remains of an ancient fortified castle
which belonged to the Gordons, formerly knights of
Lochinvar, and recently viscounts of Kenmure.
There are several moats, cairns, and curious places
of defence. In the farm of Altrye, near the top of
a hill, whence a distant view is commanded through
the mountain-passes, is an artificial trench capable
of accommodating 100 persons, reported to have
been a hiding-place of the persecuted Covenanters,
and — in derivation from the epithet by which that
suffering people were most commonly known —
bearing the designation of the Whighole. Dairy,
in common with the contiguous mountain-districts,
was the scene of not a few eventful occurrences
under the persecutions of the Stuarts. In the
churchyard of Dally one gravestone covers the dust
of Major Stewart of Ardoch, and of John Grierson,
who were shot in 1684, by Graham of Claverhouse,
and after being buried in the family cemetery be-
longing to Ardoch, were dug up, by Graham's
orders, and finally reinterred in the north-west cor-
ner of the churchyard of Dairy. The landowners
of the parish are Forbes of Callendar, Oswald of
Auchencruive, and seven others. The assessed pro-
perty in 1843 was £5,768 ; iu 1860, £7,792. The
village of Dahy, which is also called the Clachan of
Dairy and St. John's Town of Dairy, is beautifully
situated on a bend of the Ken, near the southern
angle of the parish. The houses, though irregularly
scattered over a considerable space of ground, pro-
duce a fine effect to the eye. The little crofts lying
around them are all carefully cultivated; and the
gardens are neatly surrounded with hedges, and
sheltered by rows of trees. The great rising of the
Covenanters which terminated in the battle of Bul-
lion Green originated in a trivial accidental occur-
rence in this village. Population of the parish in
1831, 1,246; in 1861, 1,149. Houses, 202.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcudbright,
and synod of Galloway. Patron, Forbes of Callen-
dar. Stipend, £282 17s. 9 Jd.; glebe, £20. Unap-
propriated teinds, £114 18s. 10|d. The church was
formerly dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and a
large stone is shown to strangers as a curiosity,
called St. John's chair. Before the establishment
of Carsphairn parish in 1640, Dairy comprehended
the mountainous and extensive tract between the
Ken and the Deugh, and it anciently had several
chapels, all subordinate to the mother or parochial
church. During episcopal times the parson was a
member of the chapter of Galloway. The present
church was built in 1832, and contains 700 sittings.
There is an United Presbyterian church, which was
built in 1826, and contains 200 sittings. There are
two parochial schools, — the one at Smeaton-bridge,
and the other at Corseglass ; and the salary of each
of the masters is £35. There is also an endowed
school, called the Dairy free grammar school, for
giving poor boys a liberal gratuitous education, at-
tended by about 120 pupils, and maintained by a
large endowment of money and land.
DALEY, a locality in the parish of St. Cuthberts,
about a mile west-south-west of Edinburgh, where
once stood the villages of Easter Dally and Wester
Dairy, now undistinguishable as separate commu-
nities, but which is still rendered conspicuous by
Dairy-house and Dairy cemetery; — the latter one
of those extra-mural places of interment which
have been established by modem regard to the san-
atory condition of the city.
DALRYMPLE.
3G3
DALSERF.
DALRYMPLE, a parish, containing a poBt-olb'ee
villager of its own name, on the southern border of
the district of Kyle, Ayrshire. It is bounded by
the parishes of Ayr, Coylton, Dalmellington, Strai-
ten, Kh'kmiehacl, and Maybole. It is of an oblong
figure, measuring from east to west 7 miles, having
an average breadth of 2 miles, and containing an
area of about 12 square miles. Nearly its whole
surface rolls or undulates in numerous cultivated
knolls, or little moundish bills, around most of
which is bung out the extensive, varied, and en-
chanting panorama of the frith of Clyde and the
lowlands south of Benlomond and the Grampians.
One of the elevations commands a view of even the
mist-vailed coast of Ireland. Along the whole
southern and western boundary the Doon moves
amidst alternations of bold sylvan banks and rich
fertile haughs, dividing the parish from Carrick, and
fringing its verge in the softest forms of beauty.
Four lakes — Martinham, ICerse, Snipe, and Linds-
ton — enrich the soil and the scenery, and abound i n
pike, perch, eel, and waterfowls. Martinham, the
largest, only protrudes into the northern division of
the parish, and belongs mainly to Coylton. It is
about 1J mile in length, and a furlong in breadth,
and sends off its surplus waters south-westward
by a rivulet to the Doon. The soil is, on a few of
the eminences, a barren clay ; on others, a loamy
clay ; and around the beds of the streams and lakes,
a sandy or gravelly loam. Plantations of almost all
varieties cultivated in Scotland beautify hill and
vale. At Skeldon, on the Doon, are six oaks be-
lieved to be 300 years old. The Marquis of Ailsa
draws more than half of the rental of the parish,
and Oswald of Auchencruive nearly a fourth. The
only mansions are Skeldon and Hollybush. The
yearly value of raw produce was estimated in 1837
at £13,260. Assessed property in I860, £9,692 ; of
which £3,480 was in recent iron-works. The parish
is traversed by the Ayr and Girvan railway, and has
a station on it; and it was once traversed by a
Roman road. On a rising ground at the western
boundary are vestiges of three small circular British
forts. In various localities ancient coins and me-
morials of Roman civilization have been found.
The barony of Dahymple was held in ancient times
by a family to whom it gave name. During the
reign of David II., it was divided between two Dal-
rymples, who probably were the descendants of a
common progenitor. In the reign of Eobert II. the
whole barony was acquired by John Kennedy of
Dunure ; and it continued to belong to his descend-
ants till the reign of Charles II. The Dalrymples,
or ancient proprietors and their off-shoots, figure
largely in history as lawyers, as statesmen, and as
warriors, and now number among their representa-
tives the noble family of Stair. The castle of the
original Dalrymple stood on a rising-ground in the
vicinity of the Doon. Every vestige of it has long
ago been removed — so long, indeed, that no one in
the district knows when or by whom it was swept
away; and few persons in the district are aware
that it ever existed at all. Not long ago, however,
there were persons in the village who remembered,
when young, to have sported ''on the green knoll
where once towered the castle walls, and rolled
themselves down the grassy sides of the hollow that
formed the ditch round it. This too is now filled
up and ploughed over; and a slight elevation above
the surrounding level alone marks where the strong
house of the Dalrymples bad been. The name
Dalrymple signifies "the vale of the crooked pool,'
and it describes exactly the site of the village even
as it now exists, but must have described it still
more strikingly in its original condition. The Doon
here creeps along like a pool with considerable
tortuosity, but anciently made a reduplicate cur-
vature almost in the form of the letter S. The
village is pleasantly situated on the dale at this
tortuosity, about midway between Ayr and Maybole.
It was formerly an irregular assemblage of thatched
cottages, but is now a neat pleasant place, much
admired by every stranger. Population of tho
village 261. There are a saw-mill, and a pim-mill
near the village, a woollen factory at Nethermill,
and meal and Hour mills in other places. Popula-
tion of the parish in 1831, 964; in 1861, 1,325.
Houses, 229.
This parish is in the presbytery of Ayr, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, about £270; glebe, £12 10s. 4d. School-
master's salary, £50, with £29 other emoluments.
The parish church, situated near the village, at the
south-west angle of the parish, was built in 1764.
There is a Free church : amount of contributions in
1865, £219 5s. 1 1 id. There is a private school
at Hollybush. There are a friendly society, a
musical society, a Burns' club, and a curling club.
A short period before the Reformation, Dalrymple
parsonage was attached as a prebend to the chapel-
royal of Stirling.
DALSERF, a parish in the centre of the southern
border of the middle ward of Lanarkshire. It con-
tains the post-town of Larkhall, and the villages of
Dalserf, Rosebank, and Millheugh. It is bounded
by the parishes of Hamilton, Cambusnethan, Car-
luke, Lesmahago, and Stonehouse. The Clyde
traces all the north-eastern boundary; a tributary
of the Avon, and afterwards the Avon itself, trace
all the north-western boundary; and the parish ex-
tends lengthwise between these streams in the form
of an irregular oblong. Its greatest length is about
6 § miles, and its greatest breadth 4J; but in certain
parts the breadth does not exceed 2 or 3 miles. It
contains upwards of 5,725 Scots acres, or about
7,2 1 9 imperial acres. It is traversed by the road from
Glasgow to Carlisle, the south road from Glasgow to
Lanark, and the new road from Edinburgh to Ayr;
it is intersected also by the Lesmahago railway;
and it enjoys comparatively ready access to the
Caledonian railway at the stations of Wishaw, Over-
town, and Carluke. The soil is generally fertile
and well-cultivated. There are different breadths
of valley along the Clyde, and the banks rise often
with a bold and abrupt ascent; and occasionally pre-
cipitous hollows are to be met with not devoid of a
romantic character. The village of Dalserf is situ-
ated about 120 feet above the level of the sea; and
the highest land in the parish about 400 feet.
Fruit cultivation is of great antiquity in this district,
which lies almost in the centre of the luxuriant
range of the Clydesdale orchards. From failing
crops, however, and the facilities now afforded for
the importation of fruit from England, Ireland, and
the continents of Europe and America, the local
cultivation has not been so remunerative as it used
to be ; so that orchard -planting is not on the in-
crease. See Clydesdale. Coal abounds in every
part of the parish ; and there are numerous collieries
in full operation, the produce of which is disposed
of on moderate terms to the adjoining districts.
Ironstone is known to abound on the Avon; and
freestone quarries are in full activity on the Clyde,
from which excellent blocks may be cut of any size.
The principal resident landowner is Hamilton oi
Dalserf and Millburn; but a landowner to nearly
three times his extent is the Duke of Hamilton ; and
there are about fourteen others. The real rental is
about £12,260. The yearly value of raw produce
was estimated in 1840. at £15,000, —of which £1,250
DALSHOLM.
364
DALTON.
were for fruit and £2,000 for minerals. Assessed
property in 1860, £19,313; of which £7,000 were in
mines. Many inhabitants are employed in weaving
and lace-making. The village of Dalserf is pleas-
antly situated among gardens, close to the man-
sion of Dalserf, contiguous to the Clyde, 7 miles
south-east of Hamilton. It was once a kirktown of
some size and importance, but now consists merely
of a few low-roofed cottages on two sides of the lane
leading from the Lanark road to the parish church,
and has for many years been going steadily into
decay. Population of the parish in 1831, 2,680; in
1861, 4,876. Houses, 798.
This parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton and
synod of Gasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Duke of
Hamilton. Stipend, £264 12s. 6d.; glebe, £37 10s.
Unappropriated teinds, £63 12s. 4d. The parish
church was built in 1655, but has been three times
repaired since, and now affords accommodation for
500 sitters. There is a quoad sacra parish church
at Larkha.ll, built in 1836 as an extension church,
with 720 sittings, and in the patronage of the Duke
of Hamilton. There is also at Larkhall a Free
church, whose contributions in 1865 were £308 8s.
8|id. There is likewise at Larkhall a United Presby-
terian church, built about 1836, and containing 400
sittings. The parochial schoolmaster's salary is
now £52 10s. There are several private schools. —
Dalserf parish was in early times a chapelry, which
belonged to the ancient parish of Cadzow (now
Hamilton). It was designated the chapelry of
Machan, and the district was called Machanshire.
Upon the accession of Robert the Bruce to the
throne of Scotland, the territory of Machan was for-
feited by Sir John Comyn, and was granted by
Bruce to Walter, the son of Gilbert, the predecessor
of the Hamilton family. It was made a barony in
the 14th century; and was afterwards called the
barony of Machan. The church of Cadzow with its
chapel of Machan was constituted a prebend of the
cathedral church of Glasgow, and formed the
benefice of the dean. The chapelry of Machan was
subsequently established as a separate parish; but
the precise time when this took place has not been
ascertained. A parish church having been built at
the village of Dalserf, the same name was given to
the parish, probably about the period of the Refor-
mation. As vassals of the Hamilton family, many
of the gentlemen of this parish were deeply involved
in the troublous scenes which alike distinguished
and disturbed Scotland previous to the junction of
the crowns under James VI. Gavin Hamilton of
Kaplock, and commendator of Kilwinning, was
present at the battle of Langside, in the army of
the Queen; he was also one of Maiy's commis-
sioners at York in 1570, and was included in the
treaty of Perth of 1572. John Hamilton of Broom-
hill was wounded, and taken prisoner in the same
battle; and about two years afterwards, his house
of Broomholm was burned down by Sir William
Drury, the governor of Berwick.
DALSHOLM, a village in the parish of New
Kilpatrick, Dumbartonshire. Here is a paper-mill,
with seven beating-engines. Population in 1851,
111. Houses, 22.
DALSWINTON, a post-office village and an
estate in the parish of Kirkmahoe, Dumfries-shire.
The village stands on the west side of the parish,
near the Nith, 1\ miles north-north-west of Dum-
fries. Population in 1841, 94. Houses, 16. The
estate comprises 5,132 imperial acres, or about one
third of the parish. It belonged anciently to the
Comyns, afterwards to the Stewarts, afterwards to
the Maxwells, and was purchased in the latter part
of last century, and greatly improved, by Patrick
Miller, Esq., the famous steam-boat projector, who
launched on a lake here in October 1788 the first
steam-boat ever tried. The ancient castle of the
Comyns having gone to decay, Mr. Miller erected
on its site an elegant and commodious mansion.
DALTON, a parish, containing a post-office
village of its own name, in the southern part of
Annandale, Dumfries-shire. It is bounded by Loch-
maben, Dryfesdale, St. Mungo, Cummertrees, Ruth-
well, and Mousewald. It is, on the whole, a par-
allelogram, stretching from north-west to south-
east; but has a deep, though narrow indentation
near the middle of its northern side, and thence,
to its north-eastern angle, considerably protrudes.
Its greatest length is nearly 6 miles, and its aver-
age breadth about 2J; and it contains an area of
nearly 11 square miles. The surface in the north-
western division is slightly hilly, and has two
elevations, — Holmains and Almagill, rising 500 feet
above sea-level; but in the other parts of the parish
it is flat. The Pow, or Cummertrees Pow, rises in
the uplands, and traverses the parish in a direction
east of south, leaving it near Gilbrae. The northern
boundary is formed for about 3 miles by the river
Annan, which here abounds in salmon, grilse, sea-
trout, and the fish — believed to be peculiar to the
Solway rivers — called herling. The Annan is sup-
posed, at a remote period, to have flowed through
this parish, entering it at Dormont, where it at
present begins to form its boundary, and pursuing
its way past Dalton church, till it fell into what is
now the channel or bed of the Pow. Along this
course are extensive alluvial deposits, and ridges of
sand and gravel, which appear to have been thrown
out by a flood of waters. During a swell the Annan
still breaks over its bank at Dormont, lays all the
flat grounds along its supposed ancient road under in-
undation, and opens a communication with the Pow.
In the uplands the soil is sand and gravel ; along
the banks of the Annan it is a light alluvial loam ;
along the ancient course of that river it is chiefly
meadow or reclaimed bog; and in some parts of the
interior it is a cold clay on a till bottom. On
Almagill hill is a fine old circular camp, command-
ing a view along nearly the whole vale of the
Annan, the ancient possession of the royal family of
Brace. Dormont-house on the Annan, and Ram-
merscales near the north-east angle of the parish,
are fine modern mansions. The principal land-
owners ar-e the proprietors of Holmains and Dor-
mont. The yearly value of raw produce was
estimated in 1835 at £10,725. Assessed property
in 1860, £5,185. The parish is traversed by the
northern road from Dumfries to Annan, and by the
road from Lochmaben to Annan, and enjoys com-
paratively ready access on one side to the Caledon-
ian railway, and on the other side to the South-west-
ern railway. The village of Dalton stands on the
Lochmaben and Annan road, 6 miles north-west of
Annan, and 9 east-south-east of Dumfries. It is
the site of the parish church, but otherwise possesses
little importance. Population of the parish in 1831,
730; in 1861, 679. Houses, 123.
This parish is in the presbytery of Lochmaben,
and synod of Dumfries. Patrons, the trustees of
Sandeman of Kirkwood. Stipend, £171 12s. lid.;
glebe, £10. Unappropriated teinds, £15 Is. lOd.
Schoolmaster's salary now is £60, with £20 fees.
The parish church was built in 1704, and contains
about 300 sittings. The present parish comprehends
the old parishes of Meikle Dalton and Little Dalton,
which were united immediately after the Reforma-
tion. In 1609 they were both united to Mousewald :
but in 1633 were disjoined from it, and erected into
their present form. The church of Little Dalton
DALTON.
365
DAMHEAD.
was demolished, and that of Meikle Dnlton made
the united parochial church. Meikle Dalton, the
predecessor of the modem hamlet, was of old the
scat of the baronial courts.
DALTON, a village in the east end of the parish
of Cambuslang, Lanarkshire.
DALVADDY. See Cami>beltox.
DAL VAULT, a village in the parish of Bonhill,
Dumbartonshire.
DALA'EEN, a difficult pass through the Lowther
mountains, from the parish of Crawford in Lanark-
shire into the parish of Durisdccr in Dumfries-shire.
DALVEY, a station on the Strathspey railway,
between Advie and Cromdale.
DALWHAT WATER, a stream in the north-
west of Dumfries-shire. It runs in a south-easterly
direction along the parish of Glencairn, forming, in
the lower part of its course, a beautiful, well-wooded
dale, amidst general scenery, upland, heathy, and
bleak. Having flowed J of a mile past Minnyhive,
it, forms a confluence with the recently united waters
of Castlefairn and Craigdarrooh, and along with
them forms, or is thence called, the Cairn. Its en-
tire course is about 9 miles.
DALWHINNIE, an inn and a railway station in
Badenoch, Inverness-shire, on the Highland railway,
99£ miles from Edinburgh, and 56J from Inverness.
The inn was built by Government.
DALZIEL, a parish, containing the post-town of
Motherwell and the village of WindmUlhill, in the
centre of the middle ward of Lanarkshire. It is
bounded by the parishes of Hamilton, Bothwell,
Shotts, and Cambusnethan. The Clyde traces most
of its south-western boundary, and the South Calder
most of its north-eastern boundary. It is about 4
miles in length and 3 in breadth, and contains 2,283
Scotch acres. Its outline is extremely irregular, in
consequence of a part of it lying on the south-west
of the Clyde, and of the main body of it isolating
two parts of the parish of Hamilton. In the old
Statistical Account it is stated, " There is a tradition
that this part was disjoined from the parish of Dal-
ziel on account of the misdemeanors of a curate,
who was then the incumbent. Why it was not re-
stored to his successor is not known. It would
have been convenient that it had been so; for the
living is very small." The land of the parish is
low, and the surface even and regular, excepting in
a few parts where it is slightly varied by rising
grounds. It rises very gently from the Clyde and
Calder, and there is little of it more than 150 feet
above the level of the sea. The soil is mostly a
heavy clay, which is under the usual rotation of
cropping. There are many thriving plantations in
the parish ; and no inconsiderable portion of it on the
banks of the Clyde is formed into orchard-grounds,
the produce of which in point of quality has not been
surpassed by that of any of the adjacent fruit-grow-
ing parishes. See Clydesdale. Coal abounds, and
is now extensively worked. There are also clay-
slate and some excellent flag-stone; the latter is
principally worked at Craigneuk quarry. A large
malleable iron-work likewise is in full operation.
The principal landowners are Lord Belhaven, Ham-
ilton of Dalziel, and three otheTS. The yearly
value of raw produce was estimated in 1836 at
£8,182. The assessed property in 1860 was £2 1,956.
The parish is traversed by the road from Hamil-
ton to Edinburgh, by the road from Glasgow to
Lanark, and by the main western fork of the Cale-
donian railway, and has a station on the latter, at the
junction with it of the Clydesdale Junction railway,
in the vicinity of Motherwell. Population in 1831,
1,180; in 1861, 5.43S. Houses, 775.
The most ancient family connected with this
parish were the Dalziels, who afterwards became
Earls of Carnwath ; but after various transferences,
though principally to members of the same family,
the larger portion of the Dalziel estate was sold in
1 647 by the Earl of Carnwath to Hamilton of Boggs,
whose descendant is still in possession. This parish
was celebrated as having been intersected from east
to west by the principal branch of the Great western
Roman road, or Watling-street, as it has been called.
The present road from Glasgow to Lanark by Car-
luke, has been for a considerable way formed upon
it ; and the march of recent improvement has almost
entirely effaced every trace of this great pathway of
the Romans, although but a few years have passed
away since it was plainly discernible, and even the
cinders of the Roman forges remained untouched.
At the north-west boundary of the parish there is a
bridge of a single span over the Calder, evidently of
great antiquity, and which is usually understood to
have been constructed by the Romans at the time
they possessed this part of the country. Upon a
steep bank of the Calder, near this bridge, there
were formerly situated the remains of a pretorium
or Roman encampment ; but here also the hand of
improvement has been busy in obliterating those
landmarks which, for more than a thousand years,
had existed to mark the early location of the con-
querors of the world. In another part, near the
centre of the parish, and upon a bank overlooking
the Clyde, was situated a second Roman encamp-
ment or outpost. To mark the spot, one of the pre-
decessors of the present proprietor built a little
temple or summer-house, cut terrace-walks along
the bank, and planted fruit and forest trees in taste-
ful positions, — altogether rendering it a fairy spot,
which embraces one of the sweetest views in Clydes-
dale. The mansion of Dalziel is situated upon the
bum or brook of that name, and in one of the most
beautiful parts of the glen through which it mean-
ders. It was built by Mr. Hamilton of Boggs in
1649, two years after the estate came into his pos-
session ; and it is in verity a beautiful specimen of
an old baronial residence. Hamilton of Wishaw
calls it " a great and substantial house." Attached
to it is an old tower or peel-house, the age of which
is not known, but it is evidently of great antiquity.
It is 50 feet in height, and the walls are 8 feet in
thickness, having recesses which were wont to be
used as sleeping-places. It is of limited extent. In
an apartment used as a kitchen in this peel is sus-
pended from the roof a lustre composed of large stag
horns, connected with iron, with metal sockets for
the candles.
This palish is in the presbytery of Hamilton, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Hamilton of
Dalziel. Stipend, £155 lis. 3d.; glebe, £60. School-
master's salary, now is £65, with about £36 fees,
and £12 other emoluments. The parish church is a
cruciform structure, built in 1789, and containing
370 sittings. There is a Free church : sum raised
in 1865, £181 8s. 3Jd. There is likewise a United
Presbyterian church. The church of Dalziel, with
its tithes, was granted to the monks and abbots
of Paisley in the 12th century; and It was after-
wards conveyed to the dean and chapter of Glasgow,
whose common property it continued till the Refor-
mation. Subsequent to this event the patronage
and tithes of the parish were given by Queen Mary
to the college of Glasgow; and they remained in
their possession in 1702, when Hamilton of Wishaw
wrote his account of Lanarkshire ; but afterwards
they came into the family of Hamilton of Dalziel.
DAMHEAD, a post-office village in the parish
of Arngask, at the meeting-point of the counties of
Kinross, Fife, and Perth. It stands in a vale of
DAMHEAD.
366
DARUEL.
the Ochil-hills, which is traversed by the road
from Edinburgh to Perth. Fairs are held here on
the last Tuesday of April, old style, on the first
Thursday of August, and on the first Tuesday of
October ; and another fair is held at Lustielaw, in
the vicinity, on the third Tuesday of May, old style.
Population, in 1851, of the entire village, 138 ; of
the Kinross-shire portion, 24 ; of the Fifeshire por-
tion, 56. Houses in the whole, 36.
DAMHEAD, Dumbartonshire. See Jamestoh.
DAMHEAD OF THUIC, a hamlet in the carse
of Stirling, and on the north-east border of the par-
ish of St. Ninians, midway between the town of St.
Ninians and the village of Airth. A subscription
school was erected here in 1842.
DAMIETT. See Dunmyat.
DAMPH (Loch), a beautiful lake, about 3 miles
long and £ a mile broad, on the eastern verge of the
Coygach district of Cromartyshire. It lies cradled
among the mountains, from 8 to 11 miles east of
Ullapool, and discharges its surplus waters in oppo-
site directions from its two ends. The heights
which immediately environ it have a verdant sur-
face, a somewhat uniform summit line, and an aver-
age altitude of about 1,000 feet, and part of them
are clothed over their lower half with birch-woods.
DAMSA, or Damsay, one of the Orkneys, consti-
tuting part of the parish of Firth. This is a beau-
tiful little island, scarcely a mile in circumference,
in the bosom of the bay of Firth. From the singu-
lar beauty of its appearance, it has sometimes been
styled the Tempe of the islands. It formerly con-
tained a castle reputed to be of great strength.
There was also a church here, said to have been
dedicated to the Virgin Mary, by whose influence —
according to the credulity of ancient times — many
wonders were here performed. This fabric, with
all its miracles, has almost sunk into oblivion ; and
the island is now applied to the pasturing of a few
hundreds of aheep.
DAMYAT. See Donmyat.
DANDALEITH, a beautiful haugh on the Spey,
in the parish of Eothes, Morayshire.
DANE'S DYKE. See Crail.
DANESHALT, or Dunshelt, a post-office village
in the parish of Auchtermuchty, Fifeshire, about a
mile south of the town of Auchtermuchty, and 2J
north of Falkland. It stands on the road to Falk-
land, Kirkcaldy, and Kinghorn, and is supposed to
be the place where the Danes first halted after their
discomfiture oir Falkland moor. It has a school,
and is lighted with gas, and partakes generally in
the industry of Auchtermuchty. Population in 1861,
567. Houses, 155.
DANSKINE, an inn in the parish of Garvald,
5J miles south-east by south of Haddington, on the
road to Dunse. There is a small loch here.
DARA (The), a stream of the north-west of Aber-
deenshire. It rises on the southern confines of the
parish of Aberdour, runs about 10 miles south-west-
ward, past New Byth and Cuminestown, makes a
turn near the middle of the parish of Turriff, and
runs about 3 miles north-westward thence to a con-
fluence with the Deveron a little below the village
of Turiff. In the upper part of its course, it bears
the name of the Water of Idoch.
DARGAVEL. See Erskine.
DARGIE, a village in the Invergowrie district of
the parish of Liff and Benvie, about 3 miles west
of Dundee, surrounded by Forfarshire, but politically
belonging to Perthshire. Population in 1851, 32.
Houses, 9.
DARK MILE (The), a romantically picturesque
glen, about a Scotch mile in length, between Loch
Arohaig and Loch Lochy, in the parish of Kilmalie,
Inverness-shire. It is traversed by a dark sluggish
stream, flowing to Loch Lochy, and filled along the
bottom with rugged, rocky, lofty, copse-clad knolls.
Its scenery is exactly similar to that of the Trosachs,
but more striking and on a larger scale; yet, in
spite of much thoroughfare in its immediate vicinity,
along the great glen of the Caledonian canal, it con-
tinues to be very little known.
DARLINGSHAUGH, a town in the parish of
Melrose, Roxburghshire, forming a suburb of the
town of Galashiels, standing in compact contiguity
to the main body or Selkirkshire portion of that town,
and partaking generally in its industry and trade.
Population in 1861, 3,631. See Galashiels.
DARLINGTON, a suburb of the town of Stew-
arton, Ayrshire. It was feued by the public-spirited
William Deans, the introducer of woollen and carpet
manufactories to the district, and is sometimes called
Deanston in honour of him, but was originally called
Templehouse. Population in 1851. 425. Houses,
33. See Stewarton.
DARNAWAY CASTLE, a seat of the Earl of
Moray, in the parish of Dyke and Moy, Morayshire.
It was built about 45 years ago. It is a large ob-
long pile, and stands on a gentle eminence over-
topping a great extent of forest, and commanding a
magnificent view of rich and varied scenery. It
presents a very imposing appearance, as seen from
a distance. The grounds around it are finely
diversified and full of beauty ; and the circumjacent
forest extends away into the parish of Edenkillie.
Adjoining the modern edifice is a princely hall of the
old castle, built by Earl Randolph, Regent of Scot-
land during the minority of David Bruce. Its
length is 89 feet, and its breadth 35 feet. The
arched oaken roof is superb, and somewhat re-
sembles that of the Parliament-house of Edin-
burgh. Mary, Queen of Scots, held her court
here in 1564. Among the pictures is one of ' The
Fair,' or ' Bonny Earl of Moray,' as he is com-
monly called, who was murdered at Donibristle.
See Dalgety. There is also a portrait of Queen
Mary, disguised by way of a frolic, in boy's clothes,
— in long scarlet stockings, black velvet coat, black
kilt, white sleeves, and a huge ruff.
DARNICK. See Dernock,
DARNLEY, an ancient barony in the south-west
of the parish of Eastwood, 2 miles south-west of
Polloekskaws, Renfrewshire. It belonged for ages
to a branch of the house of Stewart. Sir John Stew
art of Damley was ennobled in the loth century, —
first as Lord Darnley, and afterwards as Earl of
Lennox. From this place, then, the family derived
its second title, which makes so conspicuous a figure
in Scottish history, as having been held by the un-
fortunate husband of Queen Mary. The name also
occurred in the war-cry of the family, which was
' Avant-Darnlfi ! ' In 1571, when Dumbarton castle
was surprised and taken by the friends of the
murdered prince, under the command of Crawford
of Jordanhill, their watchword was, 'A Darnley, a
Darnley!' which, as Mr. Tytler the historian re-
marks, had been given by Crawford, " evidently
from affection for his unfortunate master, the late
King." In the beginning of the 18th century, the
Duke of Lennox and Richmond sold his estates in
Scotland, including Damley, to the Duke of Mon-
trose. About the year 1757, Darnley was purchased
by Sir John Maxwell of Nether-Pollock, in whose
family it has since continued. Several seats of
manufacture and other localities within the limits
of the ancient barony, still bear its name as a pre-
fix. See Eastwood, Crookston, and Lennox.
DARNWICK. See Dernock.
DARUEL (The), a stream in the district of
DARVEL.
367
DAVIOT.
Cowal, Argyleshire, which has its rise at the bill of
Barnish, ana, after a course of some miles through
Glendaruel, falls into the head of Loch Striven, op-
posite the north end of the Bute.
DARVEL. or Deuval, a post-office village on the
southern border of the parish of Loudoun, Ayrshire.
It stands on the right bank of Irvine Water, and on
the road from Kilmarnock to Strathaven, 1 mile cast
of Newmilns, and 9 miles east by north of Kilmar-
nock. It is a regularly built and comparatively
prosperous place; yet nearly all its inhabitants de-
pend for subsistence, either directly or indirectly,
on hand-loom weaving. Here is a Reformed Pres-
byterian meeting-house, which was built in 1835,
and has an attendance of 260. Here also are an
Established Church school, a Free Church school,
and a subscription library. The lands of Darvei
anciently belonged to the Knights Templars, and
were independent of tenure, not even holding of the
Crown. Population in 1841, 1,362; in 1861, 1,544.
DAVA, a station on the Highland railway, 8^
miles N of Gran town.
DAVAR ISLE. See Campbelton.
DAVEN (Locn), a small sheet of water in the
parish of Logie-Coldstone in Aberdeenshire. It is
situated on the south-western border of the parish,
and is about 3i miles in circumference. It is formed
by three rivulets, two of which partly bound the
parish, and a third comes to its north-western ex-
tremity from a smaller loch than itself, and passes
through. It abounds with pike.
DAVID. See Daviot.
DAVID'S (St.), a village in the parish of Dalgety,
Fifeshire. It stands on the coast of the frith of
Forth, 2 miles east of Inverkeithing, and the same
distance west of Aberdour. It exports an immense
quantity of coal. Population in 1851, 155. Houses,
32. See Dalgety.
DAVID'S (St.), a village in the parish of Mad-
derty, Perthshire. It stands on the estate of Craig of
Madderty, and has superseded the ancient village of
that name, which was a burgh of barony. It is
quite modern, and promises to be prosperous. An
elegant and commodious schoolhouse was erected
here, and endowed a few years ago, by Lady Preston
Baird.
DAVID'S (St.), Dumbartonshire. See KIRKIN-
TILLOCH.
DAVIDSON'S-MAINS. or Muttonhole, a strag-
gling village in the centre of the parish of Cramond,
Edinburghshire. It stands on the road from Edin-
burgh to the village of Cramond, 2i miles south-
west of Granton. It is a station of the Edinburgh
county police. Population in 1861,599. Houses, 50.
DAVIOT, — popularly David, — a parish, contain-
ing a post-office village of its own name, in the dis-
trict of Garioch, Aberdeenshire. It is bounded by
Fyvie, Old Meldrum, Bourtie, Chapel of Garioch,
and Rayne. Its boundaries are principally natural,
being defined by the courses of rivulets, the largest
one of which, on the eastern side, is joined by vari-
ous tributaries from the neighbouring parishes, and
runs southward to the river Urie. The form of the
parish is irregular, — it tapers to a point both towards
the north and south. It extends to about 3J miles
in length, and 2 in breadth, exclusive of its quoad
sacra limits. The soil is various, consisting partly
of strong clay, partly of rich loam, but in general
fertile. Its exposure is chiefly to the south and
south-east; and the land is undulating, with few
hills. About 500 acres were first enclosed in 1792 ;
and now about 3,700 acres are in tillage, about 180
under wood, and about 100 are moss, which sup-
plies the inhabitants with peat-fuel, while only
about 1 50 are moorland or waste. There are five
landowners. The yearly value of raw produce was
estimated in 1837 at £16,440. Assessed property in
1860, £3,962. There is a manufactory for carding
and spinning wool. There was for very many years
a distillery. There are two Druidical temples, one
of which makes part of the church-yard. The
village of Daviot stands nearly in the centre of the
parish, 19 miles north-west of Aberdeen. The
parish is traversed by the turnpike road which con-
nects the east and west branches of the great road
from Aberdeen to Inverness. Population in 1841,
091; in 18C1, 614. Houses, 106.
This parish was formerly a parsonage in the
diocese of Aberdeen, to the bishop of which it was
given as an alms-gift by Malcolm .Canmore. It is
now in the presbytery of Garioch, and synod of
Aberdeen. Several lands in the parishes of Chapel
of Garioch and Fyvie were, towards the end of last
century, annexed to it, quoad sacra, by act of As-
sembly; so that the whole under the minister's
charge is nearly 5 miles in length and 4 in breadth.
Stipend, £159 0s. 9d.; glebe, £12. Patron, the
Crown. The Church is situated at the village of
Daviot. Schoolmaster's salary, £52 10s., with £20
of fees.
DAVIOT and DUNLICHITY, an united parish,
partly in Nairnshire, but chiefly in Inverness-shire.
It contains the post-office station of Daviot, and is
in some parts only 5 miles distant from Inverness,
— in other parts, 20 miles. It extends on both sides
of the river Nairn, with a length of about 23 miles,
and a breadth of from 2 to 4. It lies nearly due
east and west; and is bounded on the north by
Croy, on the east by Moy, on the south by Kin-
gussie, and on the west by Dores. Its appearance
is wild and romantic in the highest degree. See
Nairn (The) and Strathnairn. The heights along
its south side are part of the range of the Mon-
adhleagh Mountaixs: which see. Those on the
west are a nigged chain, enclosing some lakes, and
attaining an altitude of from 1,500 to 1,600 feet.
Those along the north are part of the inclined sand-
stone ridge of Drummossie moor, which has here an
altitude of about 800 or 900 feet, and which declines
to the eastward of the parish into the moor of Cul-
loden. See Colloden. Two lakes, Ruthven and
Dundelchack, lie on the boundary with Dores ; and
other two, Coire and Clachan, lie in the interior.
In the low grounds are large tracts of peat-moss,
incapable of cultivation, but which seem, in general,
well suited for the growth of forest-trees. About
4,000 acres of the entire parochial area are either
regularly or occasionally in tillage; about 1,500
acres are either waste land or pasture of a kind
capable of much improvement; and about 3,100
acres are under wood. The average rent of the
arable land is £1. Limestone, containing many
metallic cubes of galena, has been observed below
the Mains of Daviot on the Nairn. An extensive
bed of marl was recently discovered in the moss of
Tordan'oeh. The landowners are Macgillivray of
Dunmaglass, Forbes of Culloden, Baillie of Doch-
four, and the Mackintoshes of Mackintosh, Aberar-
der, Farr, and Raigmore. At the Mains of Daviot
are some ruins of a castle built by the Earl of Craw-
ford in the beginning of the 15th century. It was
of great extent, but most of the stones have been
taken away to build a modern house near its site.
Remains of Druidical temples may be seen at Daviot.
Fan-, Gask, and Tordarroch. The great Highland
road from Inverness to Perth goes across the east
end of the parish ; and an excellent road, made un-
der the auspices of the parliamentary commissioners,
branches off from it near the church of Daviot, runs
nearly 13 miles westward through the interior, and
DAWICK
368
DEANSTON.
passes on to Inverfarigag pier in Locli-Ness, thus
furnishing a ready communication with the Cale-
donian canal. Population in 1831, 1,788; in 1861,
1,741. Houses, 337. Population of the Inverness-
shire portion in 1831, 1,641 ; in 1861, 1,565. Houses,
300. Assessed property in 1860, £5,699.
This parish is in the presbytery of Inverness, and
synod of Moray. The two parishes which consti-
tute it were united in 1618 ; but are yet so much
distinct as to have their respective glebes, churches,
and parochial schools. Patrons, the Crown and
Earl Cawdor. Stipend, £186 14s. 2d.; glebes, £10.
Salary of each schoolmaster, £25, with £8 or £10
fees. The church of Daviot stands 4 miles from the
east end of the parish, and was built in 1826, and
contains 500 sittings. The church of Dunlichity
stands 12 miles from the west end of the parish, and
7 miles west of the church of Daviot ; it was built
in 1759, and repaired in 1826, and contains 300 sit-
tings. Service is performed alternately in the two
churches every Sabbath. There is a Free church,
with an attendance of about 800; receipts in 1865,
£172 12s. Hid. There is a Society's school at
Croaehy of Aberarder.
DAWiCK, a suppressed parish in Peebles-shire.
Before the Reformation it was a vicarage of the rec-
tory of Stobo. It lay chiefly on the right bank of
the Tweed ; but partly also on the left bank. In
1742, its larger section was incorporated with Drum-
melzier, and its smaller with Stobo. In the north-
east of the present parish of Drummelzier, are still
places called East Dawick and West Dawick, which
occupy the sites of ancient hamlets. The ruins of
Dawick church stood on Scrape Burn, about \ of a
mile south of New Posso.
DEAD BURN. See Newlands.
DEADMANGILL. See Mouswald.
DEAD RIGGS. See Eccles.
DEAD WATER. See Castleton.
DEAL. See Halkirk.
DEAN, or Den, any ravine or deep narrow vale,
traversed along the bottom by a small stream. The
name is Celtic. It occurs with considerable fre-
quency in Scottish topography, both in composition
and alone. In composition it occurs sometimes as a
prefix, sometimes as an affix, but more commonly in
a mixed capacity as " Dean or Den of- ." Alone,
it designates many rural localities, generally of
much close mimic beauty, and sometimes very ro-
mantic; none of which, however, in themselves,
apart from contiguous ground, are seats of popula-
tion or otherwise of such importance as to require
from us separate description. " Dean " is the form
most common in the southern counties ; and " Den,"
in the counties north of the Forth. Many of the
ravines of this designation are of the character of a
cul de sac, close at the upper end, opening down to
a meadow at the lower end, and covered with copse-
wood or strongly marked with escarpments athwart
the sides.
DEAN, or Langlands Dean, a village in the
south of the parish of Wilton, Roxburghshire.
Population, 129.
DEAN (The), formerly a hamlet on the Water of
Leith, now a suburb of Edinburgh, remarkable for
its romantic appearance, and its exquisitely beauti-
ful bridge of 4 arches, each 96 feet in span, by which
the road to Queensferry is carried across the deep
ravine through which the Water of Leith here flows,
at a height of 106 feet above the rocky bed of the
stream. The total length of this bridge — which
was erected chiefly by the enterprise of one indivi-
dual— is 447 feet; breadth between the parapets 39
feet. See Ediniukgh.
DEAN (The), a deep running river in the county
of Forfar. It takes its rise from the lake of Forfar,
runs south-west, and, receiving the water of Gairie,
near Glammis castle, falls into the Isla about a mila
north of Meigle, after a course of about 12 miles.
In its course through the parishes of Kinnettles and
Glammis, it runs nearly in the line of the Newtyle
and Forfar railway.
DEAN BURN, a rivulet, flowing into the Forth,
about \\ mile west of Borrowstownness, Linlith-
gowshire.
DEANBURNHAUGH, a modem village in the
parish of Roberton, partly in Roxburghshire, and
partly in Selkirkshire. Population in 1851, of the
entire village, 86; of the Roxburgh section, 19.
DEAN CASTLE, a ruined ancient mansion, once
the seat of the noble but unfortunate family of Boyd,
in the parish of Kilmarnock, Ayrshire. It stands
some distance north-east of the town of Kilmarnock,
on a gentle rising-ground, on the banks of Kilmar-
nock Water, formerly called the Carth. A tradi-
tional rhyme says respecting it, in allusion to the
last Earl of Kilmarnock, who forfeited his title and
estates by participating in the rebellion of 1745,—
" The water of Carth rins by the Dean,
That ance was Lord Boyd's lodgin':
The lord wi' the loupen half,
He lost his title and his Ian1."
The " loupen ban' " alludes to the crest of the fam-
ily, which is a dexter hand, couped at the wrist,
erect, pointing with the thumb and two next fingers,
the others turning down, with the motto, ' Confido.'
The castle originally consisted of a single, but
strong, massive oblong tower, built about the end of
the 14th century or earlier. In 1735, the pile in an
enlarged and modernized form was accidentally re-
duced to bare walls by fire ; and since that period,
it has been gradually crumbling toward a total fall.
The growth of an ash-tree on the top of an arch,
and in the centre of the dining-room, was regarded
by superstitious credulity as the fulfilment of some
random or alleged prediction uttered during the
period of the last persecution. The ruin — as seen
from the south-west — has still a magnificent appear-
ance, and suggests the melancholy idea of fallen
grandeur.
DEANS, a village district of the parish of Cam-
buslang, Lanarkshire, containing about 60 inhabi
tants.
DEANSTON, a manufacturing village in the
parish of Kilmadock, Perthshire. It stands on the
right bank of the river Teith, about a mile west of
Doune, and is connected with that place by a bridge.
It is mentioned in the Lady of the Lake, and might
have worthily figured there in full description, as a
striking feature of the landscape ; for, though con-
trasting totally to all the natural lineaments of the
beauteous, brilliant, romantic scenery of the valley
of the Teith, it is altogether as handsome a thing
among seats of manufacture as that valley is among
landscapes, even including the valley's gorgeous
head-gear of Loch Katrine and the Trosachs. Ex-
tensive cotton-works were founded here in 1785.
These formed the nucleus of the village ; and they
still, directly or indirectly, support all its population,
and some hundreds of persons more. They were
famous from the first for the excellence of their ma-
chinery and the fineness of their produce ; but they
eventually acquired pre-eminent reputation, and at
the same time shared that reputation with the de-
partment of agriculture, under the management of
Mr. James Smith, who was born at Glasgow in 1789,
and died at Kingencleuch in Ayrshire in 1850, —
who spent a large portion of his prime of life at
Deanston in a whirl of genius as manager and iu-
DEE.
3G9
DEE.
vontor, — and whoso name now stands on the roll of
fame, among the Wattsos and the Arkwrights as a
mechanician, among the Youngs and the Sinclairs
as an agriculturist, and among the Howards and
the Clarksons as a philanthropist. The works were
lighted with gas so early as the year 1813. They
are driven by a series of stupendous overshot wheels,
each 36 feet" in diameter, with a power equal to SO
horses. Their entire structure and economy are
beautiful. A school-room is connected with them,
capable of containing 200 children. The dwelling-
houses of the work-people are on an uniform plan,
white-washed, two stories high, with attics, and ar-
ranged in rows forming one wide street, with a lane
behind. One of the rows is small, and several feet
below the level of the street ; but the other consists
of four separate and equal divisions. The houses
are provided also with small gardens and grass-
plots ; so that they present, both severally and in
grouping, a very pleasant appearance. The village
likewise borrows advantages of both look and sub-
stance from the vicinity of Deanston House and of
Doune; and it has ready access to the latter's
churches and communications. Here are a sav-
ings' bank and a circulating library. Population
in 1841, 982; in 1861, 727.
DEANSTON, Ayrshire. See Darlington.
DECHMONT. "See Cambuslang.
DECHMONT-LAW. See Livingstone.
DEE (The), a great river, partly of Kincardine-
shire, but chiefly of Aberdeenshire. The name sig-
nifies " a dark stream;" and, as regards the gloom
and the savage sublimity of the upper part of this
river's course, though not as regards the colour of
its waters, it is sufficiently descriptive. The
sources of the Dee are much higher than those of
any other river in Britain; they lie among the
shoulders and near the summits of the Cairngorm
mountains, — a group immensely grand, and in many
parts inaccessible ; they appear, in some instances,
judging from height and copiousness and constancy,
to be fed in some wondrous manner which science
has never yet been able to explain ; and the nascent
streams which flow from them are so entangled
among precipices and tunnels as to baffle all at-
tempts at close observation. Hence do the very
shepherds in the vicinity dispute as to which is the
true head-stream of the Dee ; while very intelligent
tourists, speaking veiy dogmatically, have, in seve-
ral instances, placed all the sources a thousand feet
or more below their true position.
" Nearly as many misrepresentations," says Sir
Thomas Dick Lauder, "have been made of the
source of the Dee as of the springs of the Nile ; and
it has been kept as great a mystery as the ongoings
and outgoings of the Niger; yet it should be no
great secret. The summit of Benmacdhu has many
charms in a clear day of summer. It is the highest
land in Britain, and is president over a convocation
of mountains. From its summit the crags of the
Braeriach and Caimtoul to the west, the lesser
Cairngorm and Benna-Main on the east, appear
almost on a level with the great mountain, and
grouped within a short distance of each other.
On the south and west the fine outline of Ben-y-
Gloe in Perthshire, forms a striking object, but not
more so than the high cliffs of Lochnagar, rising
over the multitude of mountains in the direction of
Forfarshire. The scene is one of almost unap-
proachable wildness. The vast number of moun-
tains apparently crowded together in every diversity
of form, and extending far to the right and left,
towards the south, cannot be forgotten by those
who have watched them in their cold and stately
dignity, so solemn and staid-looking in a clear day,
I.
when the mist has entirely rolled off, and, except
the echoes of the rough waterfalls, or the cry of the
muir-fowl, no sound whatever breaks the heavy
solitude. Far away to the south-west, the blue
outline of Benlomond, dim and indistinct, running
into and mixing with the sky, is pointed out. Ben-
nevis to the west or north-west, is not so far away.
The hills that rise around the springs of the Forth
may be distinguished from those out of which
the beginnings of the Tay and the Tummel are
drawn. Distant hazy-looking ships of green and
yellow, towards harvest-time, recall the broad low-
land districts to the mind. Beyond them still —
though it needs a clear eye or a good glass to com-
prehend the circle — are other strips of a different
colour, formed by the sea, which is visible on three
sides from the highest peak of Benmacdhu. On the
north side, and all away toward the north, the
scene is soft and inland, when compared with the
savage grandeur in all other directions. Beneath
the hill so far and sheer apparently to the eye that
a weak head grows light to look down to it sharply,
is Strathspey, smiling upwards in its mixture of
many colours, telling truly that the hand of indus-
try has been hard at work there. Above it are the
little Morayshire hills; and we know that they
overlook the finest farms, and some of the fairest
old towns in the north. Beyond them still blue
mountains rise up dimly in the sky like cloudlets.
They are in Boss-shire ; so Inverness must be away
in that direction; and a long strip of silver running
outwards to the east, and widening by the way, is
the Moray Frith; and the hills over it are in
Sutherland and Caithness. The outlines of all
Scotland, north of the Forth, come within the pic-
ture laid out round Benmacdhu; and there is no
scene in all that vast extent of land more gloomy
and terrific than those great crags on its eastern
side that rise round Lochaven."
Two head-streams of the Dee are manifestly
higher than all the others, and yet are so nearly
equal to each other in at once height, length, and
volume, that they may be best regarded as joint
parents of the river. The one rises near the sum-
mit of Benmacdhu, and runs southward down the
west flank of that mountain, chiefly beneath prodi-
gious masses of debris which hide it, for a thousand
feet or more of its descent, entirely from the view.
The other rises 160 feet from the summit of Brae-
riach, and descends south-eastward, chiefly down
the deepest and most awful precipice in Britain, to
a confluence with the former at the north-east side
of Caimtoul. The springs of the two are less than
four miles asunder, as the crow flies ; but a tremen-
dous gorge intervenes, sternly naked on one side,
and largely occupied on the skirts and bottom of the
other with fallen masses of granitic rock. The
sceneiy is terrible. One understands here more
than anywhere else in the Highlands, more even
than in Glencoe, the influence of wild alpine land-
scape in darkening the imaginations of the High-
landers, so as to give to their traditions those aspects
of gloom and superstition which have ever hung as
severely upon them as if they had been the effusions
of a rational faith. A graphic periodical write*-,
describing the approach to this gorge from the glen
of the river below, says, — " Gradually what was
something like a road, dies away ; and you are now
compelled to pick your way among the stones, and
through the long heather, occasionally meeting with
one of the small tracks worn by the deer, and used
by such scanty travellers as may pass through that
savage wilderness. There is a peculiar effect of
loneliness you may never perhaps have experienced
before, on entering this wilderness. The hills are
2 A
at first distant, and the glen wide and hollow ; but
a dead stillness reigns on every thing, except on
the clattering river, which still flows on in no un-
stately bulk. Wandering on, mile after mile, the
glen gradually narrows, and gets more savage in its
aspect : great black rocks, which look like the stone
walls of some antediluvian city of the giants, begin
to run themselves up on each side; they approach
more and more towards each other; and at last the
solitary spectator feels as if they impeded his
breath, although they are some miles, perhaps, from
each other. It is time we should tell him exactly
where he is. Yonder singular-looking peak, with
shaggy precipitous sides, towards the west, is
Cairntoul ; proceeding from its side — as a wall seems
to proceed from the angle of a turret — is a vast
black mass of perpendicular rock; that is the ridge
of Braeriach, said, by an eminent calculator of alti-
tudes, to have 2,000 feet of sheer precipice ; that
2,000 feet of precipice is the object which it now
almost aches your eyes to look upon — a flat black
mass, streaked with snow, and sometimes intruded
on by a cloud, which divides the upper regions from
the lower. It is probable that now, in mid-day, a
hot sun gilds its black front, and mocks its streaks
of snow, while a dead unearthly silence pervades
the mass. It is not so at all times ; for here is the
workshop of storms — here the elements, when they
prepare themselves to come down with destruction
on the fruitful valleys below, exercise their strength
and do no hami ; then the scene is different from
the stillness of the present ; but with your leave,
reader, it is a change we do not wish to witness.
Eeturning to the description of our glen: right
a-head, and almost protruding into it, is the well-
known Cairngorm; and towards the east, stretched
the loftier Benmacdhu, now admitted to be the
highest hill in Britain. Now, after having heard
the names of these mighty objects, let us request
you to indulge yourself in the feeling of striking
loneliness and disconnection with the world which
every thing you view seems to impose on you; and
if you may not have perceived it before, you will
now feel the full expressiveness of the terms in
those lines by Hogg, where he says,
Beyond the grizzly cliffs which guard
The infant-hills of Highland Dee,
Where hunter's horn was never heard,
Nor bugle of the forest- bee;
Mid wastes that dem and dreary lie,
One mountain rears its mighty form,
Disturbs the moon in passing by,
And smiles above the thunder storm.' "
The head-stream from Benmacdhu, immediately
on issuing from its hidden course beneath the gra-
nitic debris, descends a series of five ten-aces, each
looking like a ledge of masonry, and holding a deep
limpid pool in its centre. These are called the
Wells of the Dee. The stream thence is popularly
called the Dee, but is not joined till 3 miles down
by the head-stream from Braeriach, which is popu-
larly called the Garachary or Garrochory. Another
stream, called the Guisachan, descending south-
eastward from Bennavrochan, falls in 2ijj miles
farther on, at the lower base of Cairntoul; and a
fourth, called the Geauly or Gieuly, descending
eastward from Caimeilar, falls in 4 miles still
farther on, at Dubrach. The main river now takes
a decided permanent direction toward the east ; and
all the way from "the Wells" hither, and also a
short distance farther, it flows over a broken rocky
bed, in alternate sweeps, rapids, and cascades till at
length, at a place 6 miles above Castleton of Brae-
mar, it forms a remarkable series of four small falls,
called the Linn of Dee. " The Linn of Dee," says
the periodical writer already quoted, " you will
hardly find to be what you probably expected — a
lofty waterfall. The fall is indeed very insignifi-
cant, and it is over a sloping bank, from which
there is no leap; but in no waterfall, not even in
the princely Foyers, do we behold such a terrible
specimen of the imprisoned power of the watery
element. Here it has got itself entangled in a com-
plete nest of impenetrable granite rocks, which al-
ternately confine and enlarge the noble stream,
sometimes allowing its waters to sweep indignantly
round and round some large black basin, then again
compelling them to exhaust their rage in cleaving
their way betwixt two ledges, so near each other,
that it is very easy — and a very common practice
with those who have sound clear heads — to step
across. Here the dead white of the foam contrasts
strongly with the blackness of the turbulent cal-
drons, and the still blacker recesses of the caverns
under the rocks, which an occasional commotion of
the surface more violent than usual sometimes ex-
hibits. It is said by the people in the neighbour-
hood, that the body of any living being which finds
its way into the linn, can never be recovered, and
— making allowance for generalities — we can easily
imagine that in most cases they find their way into
these abhorred caverns. We recollect, in the time
of a flood, thinking the Linn of Dee would be a fine
sight; we went, and were rather disappointed. The
water had risen above the narrow broken part of the
rocks, and its surface bad a wider channel : it darted
betwixt the banks with the velocity of the lightning,
smooth and unruffled. But of what description
must have been the working beneath ! "
About 1J mile below the linn, at the farm of
Dallavorar, some signs of cultivation begin to ap-
pear on the banks of the Dee; but it soon after
enters Mar forest, through which it flows to Castle-
ton of Braemar, receiving in its course the Lui and
the Quoich, from the north, and the Inverey and the
Clunie, from the south, and passing Mar lodge on
its northern bank. From Castleton it pursues its
course through the Mar and Invercauld forests, and
past Balmoral and Abergeldie, to the bridge of Bal -
later, above which it is joined by the Gairden, from
the north, and the Muick from the south. Its
sceneiy in the Braemar forests, and in Crathie, has
been described in our articles Braemar and Bal-
moral; and its scenery around Ballater, and for
some miles below, is described as follows by William
Howitt, — "The hills are lofty, bare, grey, and
freckled. They are, in fact, bare and tempest-tinted
granite, having an air of majestic desolation. Some
rise peaked and splintered, and their sides covered
with debris, .yet, as it were, bristled with black and
sharp-looking pine forests. Some of the hills run
along the side of the Dee, covered with these woods,
exactly as the steep Black Forest hills in the neigh-
bourhood of Wildbad. As you approach Ballater,"
ascending the river, " the valley expands. You see
a breadth of green meadow, and a neat white village
stretching across it, and its church lifting its spire
into the clear air, while the mountains sweep round
it in a fine chain of peaked hills, and close it in.
All up Deeside there is well cultivated land; but,
with the exception of this meadow on which Bal-
later stands, all is now hill, dark forest, and moor-
land, while below, on the banks of the winding and
rapid Dee, birch woods present themselves in that
peculiar beauty so truly belonging to the High-
lands."
After passing Pannanich and Dee castle, the Dee
flows through a gradually widening, though still
narrow valley, receiving numerous small tributaries
on both banks, and forcing its way through an sllu-
DEE.
371
DEER.
vium composed of rolled masses of coarse and fine
granular, grey and red granite, gneiss, porphyry,
primitive greenstone, and hornblende. About 1£
mile below Kincardine O'Neil, where Potarch
bridge crosses the Dee, there is a magnificent vein
of red felspar porphyry, traversing gneiss, and vary-
ing in breadth from 6 to 20 feet. Below Potarch,
the Dee enters Kincardineshire, through which it
flows eastward for about 12 miles, receiving there,
on its right bank, the tribute of the Feugh. It re-
touches Aberdeenshire at the south-west corner of
the parish of Drumoak; and thence, till its con-
fluence with the sea at Aberdeen, it forms the
dividing line betwixt Aberdeenshire and Kincar-
dineshire. Its banks, throughout this distance, are
rather tame and unpicturesque, — the hills lumpish
and heath-covered, and presenting few cliffs, and
the haughs narrow, except for the last 5 or 6 miles
of its course. The last sweep of the river has
peculiar beauties, and becomes identified at the
mouth with the harbour of Aberdeen. See Aber-
deen. The Dee's total length of run is about 96
miles; and its tributaries drain nearly 1,000 square
miles of country.
The waters of the Dee are remarkable for their
limpid purity and their perennial flow. The drain-
age waters indeed are subject to the same impurities
as those of all streams which receive the washings
of farms and towns ; but these, as to either tilled or
inhabited tracts, come from a much smaller propor-
tion of the aggregate area than in many other large
basins, and have also been greatly regulated and
much reduced during the last 35 years by georgical
improvement. The fountain waters, however, as
compared with those of most rivers, have both a
large volume and an eminent purity. " The moun-
tains of the Dee's head-streams," says Sir Thomas
Dick Lauder, " abound in springs on their highest
summits. How these springs are supplied, and
where their inexhaustible waters are drained from,
are questions not easily answered. The summer's
drought or winter's rain has no influence over them.
They are independent of all apparent means.
Through the huge masses of granite that form the
crust of these stupendous mountains, they urge
their way, in utter disregard of all external influences,
and seem to have selected the highest and the most
inaccessible places from whence to ooze quietly out
into the world. The Dee and its tributaries are
largely indebted to these springs for their waters,
and for their crystal clearness. Although a large
body of water passes through the ' Chest of Dee ' —
a remarkable gorge in the river's course, about a
mile or two above the influx of the Geauly — yet the
whole current on to that point, is derived from the
mountain springs, except immediately after heavy
rains. This quality of the water may partly ac-
count for the favour shown to this river and its tribu-
taries by skilful anglers. The valley of the Dee
has never stood well in the world for fertility. Its
character has been worse than its qualities. An
old adage places it below its neighbouring river the
Don ; and it has been held for long that,
'Except it be for fish or tree,
Ae mile o' Don's worth twa o' Dee.'
The couplet is exaggerated ; but, like many others
of a similar kind, there is truth in its origin. The
Dee was the finest wooded and the best fishing river
in Scotland. Entails, manufactories, and stake-nets
have partially changed all these matters ; but still,
for fish or wood, the Dee has few rivals amongst
British rivers. The salmon contrive to force their
way from the ocean, through some stormy passages,
past ' the Linn ' and through ' the Chest,' a still more
formidable barrier, to the foot of those terrible cliffs
that hang high and stern above the infant river."
DEE (The), a river in Kirkcudbrightshire, tra
versing the whole length of the stewartry, and di-
viding it into two nearly equal parts. Its sources
are about a dozen rills, some pursuing an indepen
dent course, and some passing through Long Loch
or Loch Dee, and all arising in the broad mountain-
range which separates Kirkcudbrightshire from Car-
rick. The highest and strictly the parent-stream,
rises about a mile from the boundary; and, before
receiving the surplus waters of Loch Dee, flows
circuitously about 6 miles, under the names of Sauch
burn and Cooran lane. Assuming now the name
of the Dee, it flows 17 miles north-eastward, receiv-
ing numerous rills from the uplands in its course,
and dividing the parishes of Minigaff, Girthon, and
Balmaghie on the south, from that of Kells on the
north. Over the whole of this distance it is a petty
stream, winding its way among broad flats of heath,
or hills destitute both of verdant beauty and of
grandeur. But at the point of leaving Kells its
character is entirely changed. Falling there into
Loch Ken, it usurps the titles and the tributes of
the larger and beautiful river by which that lake is
formed ; and thence it rolls proudly along to the sea,
rich in the wealth of waters, and gay in the dress of
its surrounding scenery. Over a distance of 9 or 10
miles it describes the are of a circle, bending round
from the direction of south-east to that of south-
west; and the latter direction it maintains over 13
miles, till it falls into the sea. During this part of
its progress, it divides the parishes of Balmaghie,
Tongueland, Twyuholm, and Borgue on the west,
from those of Dairy, Crossmichael, Kelton, and
Kirkcudbright, on the east. After falling into Loch
Ken, it expands over a distance of 5 miles into three
successive elongated lakes, of about J of a mile of
average breadth. Its course is afterwards rapid,
chiefly over a rocky bottom, and beneath steep anil
rugged banks adorned with copsewood and planta-
tion. Opposite the church of Tongueland it tumbles
over a declivity of rocks, and forms a' series of foam-
ing and impetuous cataracts. A little below, it is
spanned by a magnificent bridge of one arch of 110
feet, whence a fine view is obtained of the falls.
This bridge is constructed of huge blocks of free-
stone from the island of Arran, and was built by
the gentlemen of the stewartry at an expense of
about £7,000. Three quarters of a mile farther
down, the Dee receives the waters of the Tarff, and
becomes considerably widened. Two miles further,
it sweeps past the burgh of Kirkcudbright; and
thence over a distance of 5 miles, till it loses itself
in the Solway frith, forms an estuary at first J of a
mile, and afterwards 1| mile, of average breadth. Its
entire course, from the origin of Sauch bum till the
embouchure of the river, is about 46 miles. In
floods, the Dee sometimes rises 8 feet above its or-
dinary level. As the grounds around its sources
abound in mosses, its waters are of so dark a hue
as to render it difficult- — in places where there is not
a considerable current — to distinguish between a
pool and a shallow. Its salmon, too, are of a darker
colour, and much fatter, than those of most rivers
in the south of Scotland. The Dee is navigable to
Tongueland, or about 7 miles from the Solway; and
but for its cataracts, or with the aid of a canal to
enable vessels to surmount them, might be the me-
dium of an inland navigation to the very centre of
the stewartry.
DEE (Bridge of), a village in the parish of Bal-
maghie, Kirkcudbrightshire. It has a station on the
Kirkcudbright railway. Population, 243.
DEEP, or Old Deer, a parish partly in Banff-
shire, but chiefly in Aberdeenshire. It lies almost
in the centre of the district of Buchan, and is strictly
compact, its Banffshire section being a detached
pendicle of a quondam great barony, whose main
body constitutes the parish of St. Fergus. Deer par-
ish contains the villages of Deer, Biffy, and Stewart-
field, and the post-office Tillage of Fetterangus ; and
also approaches close on its east side to the post-
office village of Mintlaw. It is bounded by the
parishes of Strichen, Longside, Cruden, Ellon, and
New Deer. Its length south-eastward is 1 1 miles,
and its breadth 5£ miles. It is watered by two
rivulets, — the Deer and the Strichen, — which after-
wards form the Ugie. The surface consists of
irregular ridges of rising ground, running in various
directions, and forming a number of valleys of un-
equal extent. The tops of some of these ridges are
covered with heath, some with plantations, and
many of them are cultivated. Bound the village of
Deer is a plain of considerable extent, ornamented
with the woods and pleasure-grounds of Fitfour.
The soil of the parish is very diversified. Granite
is quarried. A coarse limestone was formerly
worked. White quartzy blocks of stone are numer-
ous, and pieces of the purest rock-crystal have oc-
casionally been found. The principal landowners,
Ferguson of Pitfour, Ferguson of Kinmundy, and
Russell of Aden, are resident ; but there is a num-
ber of others. Beeent improvements on the Pitfour
estate, chiefly in the home-grounds, together with
the mansion, cost nearly £80,000. There were
formerly within the parish several interesting Dru-
idical remains. There are two woollen mills at
Millbrake and Aden. There are also in the parish
eight meal mills. A number of the parishioners are
linen weavers. The parish is traversed by the road
from Aberdeen to Fraserburgh, by the road from
Banff to Peterhead, and by the branch line of railway
to Peterhead, and has a railway station. Popula-
tion in 1831, 4,110 ; in 1861, 5,174. Houses, 1,057.
Population of the Aberdeenshire section in 1831,
3,643 ; in 1861, 4,561. Houses, 908. Assessed pro-
perty, in 1860, £16,610.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the synod
of Aberdeen. It formerly was a prebend of the cathe-
dral of Aberdeen; but then wanted its present Banff-
shire section, and comprised the present parish of
New Deer. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £219 2s.
8d. ; glebe, from £70 to £75. Unappropriated teiuds,
£67 14s. There are three parochial schools, at re-
pectively Deer, Clochcan, and Shannas. Salary of
the first schoolmaster, £35 13s. 4d., with £24 10s.
fees; of each of the other schoolmasters, £22 3s. 4d.,
with £20 fees. The schoolmasters have also a share
in the Dick bequest. There are several private
schools. The parish church was built in 1788, and
contains 1,200 sittings. There is a Free church for
the parish, with an attendance of from 400 to 500,
whose receipts in 1865 amounted to £180 9s. 4M.
There is likewise a Free church at Clola, which
formerly belonged to the synod of United Original
Seceders. There is an United Presbyterian church
at Stewartfield, which was built in 1822, contains
440 sittings, and has an attendance of about 300.
There is a Congregational chapel at Stewartfield,
which was built in 1801, contains 300 sittings, and
has an attendance of about 100. A commodious
Scotch Episcopalian chapel in the parish was built
in 1766, and rebuilt in 1852. There is also a small
English Episcopalian chapel.
The Village of Deer or Old Deer is pleasantly
situated on the south bank of the Deer rivulet, and on
the road from Peterhead to Banff, 6 miles east of New
Deer, 10J west by north of Peterhead, and 27 north
of Aberdeen. Here are an office of the North of
Scotland Banking Company, a savings' bank, a
friendly society, a small library, and the seat of an
agricultural association. Fairs for cattle and horses
are held on the Wednesday after the 19th of July,
and on the Wednesday after the 19th of December ;
and fairs of inferior consequence are held on the
Thursday after the 25th of January, on the Thurs-
day after the 18th of February, on the Thursday
after the 18th of March, on the Monday after the
17th of September, and on the Thursday after the
25th of October. Not far from the village stand the
remains of the abbey of Deer, built in the beginning
of the 13th century by Cummyn, Earl of Buchan,
for some monks of the Cistertian order. It has been
an extensive building, but is now very much in ruins.
The revenues of this place at the Reformation were
in money £805 8s. 6d. ; wheat 14 bolls; bear 13
chaldrons, 10 bolls ; meal 65 chaldrons, 7 bolls, 1
firlot, 3 pecks. In 1587, the lands belonging to it
were erected into a temporal lordship in favour oi
Robert, son of William, 6th Earl Marischal, by the
style and title of Lord Altrie.
DEER (New), a parish, containing a post-office
village of its own name, in the district of Buchan,
Aberdeenshire. It is bounded by Tyrie, Strichen,
Old Deer, Ellon,Tarves, Methlick, Fyvie, Monquhit-
ter, King Edward, and Aberdour. Its greatest
length north and south is upwards of 14 miles ; and
its greatest breadth is 8J miles. An elevation called
the hill of Culsh, in the vicinity of the village, com-
mands a very extensive view ; yet the highest
ground is not more than 300 feet above sea-level.
The surface is flat, there being scarcely a hill or
even a spot that may be called an eminence. To-
wards the north-east and south-east the appearance,
for 7 or 8 miles, is almost one continued corn-field,
interspersed with pieces of sown grass and turnip,
and terminated by a gently rising ground, in the
form of an amphitheatre. Towards the west the
soil is shallow, and was formerly covered with heath.
The public road from Aberdeen, by Udny and Tarves,
divides the parish from south-east to north-west.
Limestone abounds. About 2 miles from the church
stands an old castle called Fedderatt, which ap-
pears to have been a place of considerable strength.
It was surrounded partly by a morass, and partly by
a fosse ; and could be approached only on one side,
along a causeway and a drawbridge. Water was
conveyed to it by means of pipes, pieces of which have
at different times been torn up by the plough. There
are a few remains of Druidical temples, and several
tumuli, which have been opened and found to con-
tain urns enclosed in stone-coffins. About a mile
west of the village is an extensive piece of ground,
called Bruce Hill, where Robert the Bruce is said to
have encamped after the battle of Inverury. The
landowners are Fordyee of Brucklaw and Gordon
of Nethermoor, who have residences in the parish,
the Earl of Aberdeen, Ferguson of Pitfour, and five
others. The yearly value of raw produce was esti-
mated in 1840 at £37,084 12s. 8d. Assessed pro-
perty in 1860, £12,995. The village of New Deer
stands nearly in tbe centre of the parish, 6 miles
west of Old Deer, 16J west of Peterhead, and about
the same distance south-east of Banff. Its site is
the backbone of a sort of ridge, with declination of
the fields to the east and the west of the street. Here
are an office of the North of Scotland Bank, and a
library. Fairs are held on the third Wednesday of
January, on the Wednesday after the 12th of April,
on the Wednesday after the 19th of June, on the
day in August after Turriff, and on the Wednesday
after the 19th of October. Population of the village
in 1861, 475. Population of the parish in 1831,
3,525; in 1861, 4,385. Houses, 811.
DEER.
373
DEIL'S DIKE.
This parish, .anciently called Audi redely, was dis-
joined from Old Deer in the beginning of the 17th
contury. It is in the presbytery of Deer, and synod
of Aberdeen. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £219
2s. 8d. ; glebe, £20. Unappropriated tenuis, £737
17s. 6d. There are three parochial schools. Salary
of the three masters, £35, £35, and £25 13s. 4d., with
fees. Each of the masters receives also between £20
and £30 from the Dick bequest. There are nine
private schools. The parish church is a handsome
structure, built in 1840, and containing 1,500 sit-
tings. A chapel of ease, containing 658 sittings,
was built at Savoch, near the south-eastern extremity
of the parish, in 1834; and was constituted by the
Court of Teinds a quoad sacra parochial church in
May 1851. The right of presentation to it belongs
to the Earl of Aberdeen. There is a Free church
for New Doer with an attendance of 350 : sum raised
in 1865, £212 9s. 3d. There are three United
Presbyterian churches at respectively New Deer,
Savoch, and Whitehill; the first with 310 sittings,
the second with 380, and the third with 450. At-
tendance at the Savoch and Whitehall U. P. churches,
each 250.
DEER (The), a small river in the north of Aber-
deenshire. It rises near the north-west extremity
of the parish of New Deer, and flows about 16 miles
east-south-eastward and eastward, through the in-
terior of that parish, across the parish of Old Deer,
and nearly across the parish of Longside, to a con-
fluence with the northern head-stream of the Ugie
at a point about 4J miles west-north-west of Peter-
head.
DEER ISLAND. See Muldohich.
DEERNESS and ST. ANDREWS, an united
parish on the east side of Orkney, and in the pres-
bytery of Kirkwall and synod of Orkney. It com-
prises a district of Pomona and three small islands.
Its post-town is Kirkwall. But the two parishes
included in it, though politically one, though one
also as to quoad civilia incumbency, are under com-
pletely separate ecclesiastical administration, and
require to be separately described. Population of
the united parish in 1831, 1,557; in 1861, 1,681.
Houses, 318. Assessed property in 1860, £2,314.
Deerness parish comprises a peninsula of its own
name, and the three islands of Copinshay, Corn-
holm, and Horse. The peninsula is the most east-
erly land of Pomona. It is connected by a narrow
isthmus with the most easterly part of St. Andrews;
it extends about 4i miles northward to Mullhead,
with a variable breadth of from 1 mile to 3 miles ;
and it is separated from the main body of St. Andrews
along all the west by the large and beautifully wind-
ing harbour of Deer sound. This harbour runs
nearly in the direction of north-east and south-west ;
it is four miles long, and from 1 to 2J miles broad.
Its entrance is from the north; and as it is sur-
rounded with land on eveiy side, and has a bottom
of clay mixed with sand, and a sufficient depth of
water, it constitutes an excellent harbour. Around
the shores the soil of the peninsula is mostly sandy ;
higher up it is loam and clay ; the middle of the
peninsula is extremely boggy and wet. Here are
several tumuli; and near the end of the isthmus are
the remains of a very large Pict's house, commonly
called Dingy's howe or Duncan's height. Deerness
is very conveniently situated for a fishing station ;
and about 50 or 60 boats are employed in the her-
ring fishery. On the sand and shores are seen
myriads of plovers, curlews, sea-larks, sea-pies,
and a large grey bird with a hoarse cry, called
by the inhabitants the Horra goose. Here very
strong ropes, calculated for different purposes in
husbandly, are made of the shoots of the crow-
berry heath or Empotrum nigrum. The ropes
for hanging the caaeys, or baskets, over tho
horses' backs, are made of tho fibrous roots of
the sea-reed or Arundo arcnaria. Tethers and
bridle-reins are made of long meadow-grasses, such
as Holcus lanatus, which bore receive the name of
pounce or puns. Considerable improvements have
recently been made in agriculture. The landowners
are tho Earl of Zetland, Balfour of Trenaby, and
Davidson of Newhall. Population in 1831, 608; in
1861, 804. Houses, 151. — Deerness was constituted
a separate parish quoad sacra by the Court of
Teinds in June 1845. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£120, with manse and glebe. The parish church
was originally a parliamentary one. There is a Free
church: attendance, 350; sum raised in 1865, £99
0s. 1 .]id. There is a Society's school, with £15 salary.
St. Andrews parish is bounded by Inganess bay,
Stronsay frith, Deer sound, and the parishes of Deer-
ness, Holm, and Kirkwall. Its extreme length is
about 6 miles ; and its average breadth is about 2.
Its surface is prevailingly flat, yet is diversified by
gentle inequalities, whose highest ground has an
elevation of about 350 feet above sea-level. Tho
coast is partly low beach and partly mural cliff, the
latter rising in one place to a height of nearly 180
feet, and pierced in another by a great pool-bottomed
cavern, which can be entered by a boat from the
sea. The landowners are Lord Zetland, Stewart of
Brough, and Baikie of Tankemess, the last of whom
is resident. Population in 1831, 889 ; in 1861, 868.
Houses, 166. — St. Andrews contains the quondam
church and manse of the united parish. Patron, the
Earl of Zetland. Stipend, £208 6s. 8d. ; glebe, £6.
Unappropriated teinds, £47 10s. 6d. Schoolmaster's
salary, £35, with from £9 to £12 fees. The parish
church was built in 1801, and enlarged in 1827, and
contains upwards of 400 sittings. There is a Free
church: attendance, 150; sum raised in 1865, £78
8s. Od. Cattle fairs are held at Knockhall and
Occlester at Candlemas, Midsummer, and Martin-
mas.
DEESIDE, the valley of the Aberdeenshire Dee.
DEESIDE RAILWAY, a railway, deflecting from
the Aberdeen railway at Ferrybill, near Aberdeen,
and ascending the valley of the Dee to Aboyne. The
original line was only to Banchory, 17 miles, and was
authorised in 1846, commenced in 1852, and opened
in 1853. The extension thence to Aboyne is 15J
miles, and was authorised in 1857, and opened in
1859. Further extension up the Dee was in progress
in 1866. See Aberdeenshire.
DEIL'S DIKE (The), a remarkable ancient line
of fortification, extending from Loch Ryan in Wig-
tonshire, by way of Minigaff, Glencairn, Penpont,
and Lochmaben, to the upper part of the Solway
frith in Dumfries-shire, at a point opposite the com-
mencement of the great wall of Adrian in Cumber-
land. It is now quite obliterated in many parts, and
more or less obscure in many, but still very distinct
in some. It appears to have been invariably eight
feet broad at the base, with a fosse onthe north or
inland side of it; and was built in most places of
unehiselled blocks of common moorstone, — in others,
of mixtures of stone and earth, — and, in a few, as at
Hightae Flow in Lochmaben, wholly of earth. It
separates the fertile lands of the sea-board districts
from the irreclaimable wastes and wild fastnesses of
the mountains, and may be presumed to have been
built by an industrious or comparatively settled
people on its south side, as a defence against a war-
like or comparatively roving people on its north side.
All facts respecting it, however, and even all reliable
traditions, have been lost. Chalmers, the author of
Caledonia, says, — " Considering all its circiun
DELORAINE.
374
DENNY:
stances, it is extremely difficult to assign its age,
its object, or its builders. In Ireland, there is no-
thing like the Deil's Dike; the inference is that it
was not made by Irish " or Dalriadan " hands. I
am disposed to think that this work is several cen-
turies older than the arrival of the Irish Cruithue
or Picts in Galloway." Again he says, — " It is
obviously a very ancient work, and was probably
formed by the Eomanized Britons after the departure
of the Roman armies."
DEIL'S HOWS. See Tannadice.
DELNEY, a station on the Highland railway, 3J
miles north-east of Invergordon.
DELORAINE, certain lands in the parish of Et-
terick, Selkirkshire, 17 miles south-west of the town
of Selkirk. In 1706, Henry Scott, 2d son of the
Duke of Monmouth, and Countess of Buccleugh,
was created Earl of Deloraine. In 1807 this title
became extinct.
DELTING, a parish in the middle of the east of
Shetland. Its post-town is Lerwick. Its main body
is part of the mainland; and this is bounded, on the
north, by Yell sound; on the east, by Nesting
and Lunnasting ; on tie south, by Weesdale ana
Sandsting; and on the west, by Sulemvoe and St.
Magnus bay. It is so intersected by arms of the
sea, that no accurate idea can be given of its extent.
In the report of the parliamentary commissioners, it
is stated to be 14 miles in length, by about 4 in
average breadth; by Edmonston it is said to be
about 1 0 miles long and 8 miles broad. The surface
is hilly, bleak, and barren; but the small part on
the coast which is under culture produces tolerable
crops of oats and barley. Fishing is the principal
support of the inhabitants. The chief harbours are
St. Magnus bay, Altha firth, Bustavoe, South Voeter,
and Sulemvoe. The two inhabited islands of Muckle
Roe and Little Roe belong to this parish ; the former
separated from the mainland by a very narrow
sound dry at low water; the latter about a mile from
the mainland. There are also the three islets of
Brother Isle, Fishholm, and Bigga. There are four
mansions in the parish, Garth, Busta, Mossbank,
and Ullhouse. There are seven landowners. The
real rental is about £1,000. Assessed property in
I860, £1,490. Population in 1831, 2,070; in 1861.
1,975. Houses, 361.
This parish is in the presbytery of Olnafirth, and
synod of Shetland. Patron, the Earl of Zetland.
Stipend, £151 Is. 6d. ; glebe, £10. Schoolmaster's
salary now is £35, with about £3 fees. There are
two parish churches, respectively in the south, and
in the north, built in 1714 and 1811, and containing
jointly 1,130 sittings. There is a Free church : at-
tendance, 90; sum raised in 1865, £34 10s. 9Jd.
There are three non-parochial schools.
DELVINE. See Caputh.
DELVORICH, a small village in the parish of
Kilmadock, Perthshire.
DEMY AT. See Duhmyat.
DEN. See Dean.
DENEND, a small village in the parish of New-
tyle, Forfarshire.
DENFENELLA. See Cyrus (St.).
DENFIEND. See Monikie.
DENHEAD, a hamlet in the parish of Cameron,
Fifeshire.
DENHEAD and DENMILL, a conjoint village,
in the parish of Liff and Benvie, a short distance
west of Dundee, Forfarshire. Here is a spinning-
mill. Population, about 120.
DENHEAD-MOOR. See Andrews (St.).
DENHOLM, a post-office village in the parish of
Cavers, Roxburghshire. It is beautifully situated
on the road from Hawick to Kelso. 5 miles north-
east of Hawick, and the same distance south-west
by west of Jedburgh. Its site is a small low
tableau, shelving abruptly to the right bank of the
Teviot, and overhung at fine scenic distances, on
one side by Minto Crags, on another by the
Dunian, and on a third by Rubberslaw. The land-
scapes of the Teviot everywhere in its vicinity are
brilliantly beautiful; and a richly wooded " den" or
ravine, leading up toward the hills from a " holm"
or meadow at the upper end of the village, whence
arose the name of Denholm, but now wearing
itself the reflected name of Denholm-dean, presents
a series of close views strikingly romantic. The
body of the village is a square, compactly built on
the four sides with neat houses, the central space,
including about 5 acres, being, with the exception of
the site of the parish school-house, enclosed and laid
out in pasture. From the angles, roads or opening!]
branch off, those on one side being on the main road
through the village, and those on the other leading
through brief streets or alleys, to a suspension-
bridge for the accommodation of foot passengers
across the Teviot. The village, a few years ago,
at considerable expense, was much improved, as to
the neatness of its appearance and the comfort of its
inhabitants, by James Douglas, Esq. of Cavers. It
is inhabited principally by stocking-weavers. Here
are a Free church, an Independent chapel, and
a well- selected and well-plied public library. Sum
raised in connection with the Free church in 1865,
£145 14s. Sittings in the Independent chapel, near-
ly 300. Denholm was the birth-place of Dr. John
Leyden ; and a monument to him was erected here
in 1861. Population in 1861, 766.
DENES O. See Dunino.
DENMILL. See Denhead.
DENMILL -CASTLE, the rained ancient resi
dence of the family of Balfour, in the parish of Abdie,
1 J mile south-east of Newburgh, Fifeshire. One of
the most distinguished members of the family was
Sir James Balfour, the laborious antiquary, and
Lord-Lion-King-at-arms, in the reign of Charles I.
" It is singular," remarks the Scottish Tourist, "that
the fate of the descendants of one who so much pre-
served the historical documents of his country is in-
volved in mystery. In the 18th century the last
known representative left Denmill- castle on horse-
back with a solitary attendant, and was never after-
wards heard of. On the sixteenth of April 1846, an
announcement appeared in the North British Ad-
vertiser, offering a reward to any one who could
produce information as to his fate. The castle be-
came ruinous, and the charter chest documents
collected by Sir James Balfour, with the exception
of those secured by the Faculty of Advocates at
Edinburgh, were destroyed as waste paper." See
Abdie.
DENNY, a parish, containing the post-town of
Denny, the post-office village of Denny- Loanhead,
and the villages of Haggs and Fankerton, in the
south-east of Stirlingshire. It is bounded by the
parishes of St. Ninians, Dunipace, Falkirk, Cumber-
nauld, and Kilsyth. Its length east and west is 6
miles; its breadth is about 4 miles; and its area has
been computed at 7,520 acres. Carron Water traces
all the northern and north-eastern boundary ; Bonny
Water traces part of the southern and most of the
south-eastern boundary; and Castlerankine burn
flows through the interior to the Carron, separating
about one- third of the parish on its left bank from
about two-thirds on its right. The surface of the
greater part of the parish, like that of most of the
districts in the eastern part of Stirlingshire, is gently
undulating. The most prominent feature is Dar-
riteh hill, or the Hill of Oaks, near the north-
DENNY.
375
DENNY.
Western extremity. The stone-fences, which nearly
universally prevail here, and the almost entire want
ol' trees and hedgerows, give the landscape an un-
usually hleak and tame aspect. The northern and
western parts, which are more elevated than the
southern, aro principally occupied as sheep-pastures.
The soil in the northern part helongs to the class
known hy the name of dryfield, and is light, sandy,
and not very fertile. The cultivation, however, has
within the last twenty years heen greatly improved;
and by the extensive application of draining and
other improved methods of agriculture, very fair
crops are now raised. Some of the land in the
north-eastern part of the parish is of greatly superior
quality, and lets at as high a rate as the best carse-
land in the country. About 6,000 acres are regu-
larly or occasionally in tillage; about 300 are re-
claimable pasture; about 180 are under wood ; and
about 1,140 are either totally waste or irreclaimably
pastoral. Sandstone and whin stone are quarried.
Coals are found iu abundance; and from the colliery
of Banknock a considerable quantity is exported by
the Forth and Clyde canal to Glasgow. Ironstone
is also found to some extent. The numerous falls
of the Carron here have furnished excellent situa-
tions for mills of various kinds. On the banks of
that stream there were formerly not less than nine
grain mills. There are now, however, only three ;
of which two are meal and barley mills, and the
other for the grinding of flour. In addition to these,
there are two char mills, — a mill for chipping dye-
woods, and the preparation of other dye-stuffs, — two
large paper-mills, in one of which fine white paper,
and in the other coarse pasteboard is manufactured,
— and three wool-spinning mills. Besides these,
we may mention two extensive calico-printing
establishments, which, though in the adjoining par-
ish of Dunipace, yet from their immediate vicinity
to the town of Denny, may be appropriately viewed
in connection with the subject of the present article.
In the parish of Denny, though not properly con-
nected with the town, are a distillery on the Bonny
at Bankier, a spade manufactory on the lands of Know-
head, a brick and tile work in the same district of
the parish, and a considerable flour, meal, and pot-
barley mill, with a small saw-mill, at Bonnyford in
the extreme east. For the supply of sufficient water-
power to the mills on the Carron, there is an artificial
reservoir on Earl's burn, in the parish of St. Ninians,
nearly 60 acres in area, retained by an embankment
of 22 feet in height, and formed at an expense of
nearly £2,000. This reservoir burst in 1839, to the
great damage of the property on the Carron, but was
afterwards reconstructed. The woollen mills are
lighted with gas and heated with steam ; and they
do extensive work in the manufacture of tartan and
fancy shawls, and linsey-woolsey stuffs. The yearly-
value of the raw produce of the parish was estimated
in 1839, at £22,450. The assessed property in 1860
was £13,098. The road from Glasgow to Falkirk
traverses the southern border of the parish ; and
that from Glasgow to Stirling deflects thence at
Denny-Loanhead, and goes northward through the
town of Dennj'. The Edinburgh and Glasgow rail-
way, and the Forth and Clyde Canal, though not
entering the parish, pass along the near vicinity of
its southern boundary; and the Scottish Central
railway makes its junctions there with the Edin-
burgh and Glasgow and with the Caledonian. A
branch of the Scottish Central also goes into the
parish, to the town of Denny; and this deflects from
the main line at Larbert, and was authorized in
1856. Population of the parish in 1831, 3,843; in
1861, 4,988. Houses, 647.
This parish — like a few others in Stirlingshire —
is remarkable for the number of small properties
which it contains, occupied by vassals, or portioners
as, they are here called, holding of a subject superior.
This peculiarity is said to have arisen from the
alarm of an Earl of Wigton at the time of the Union
in 1705, who from a belief that that event would
prove fatal to the prosperity of his country, disposed
of the whole of his largo estates in this parish and
the neighbouring ones of Cumbernauld and Kirkin-
tilloch to his own tenants, on condition of their
paying for ever the rents of that time. The num-
ber of heritors is about 150; the principal are Forbes
of Callendar, and Graham of Myothill, the latter ot
whom is resident. The tract of the parish situated
on the left of Castlerankine burn bears the name of
Temple-Denny, and is supposed to have belonged
in former times to the Knights Templars. The rest
of the parish is naturally divided into two nearly
equal parts, as to both area and population, by the
watershed between the Carron and tire Bonny; and
these two parts are often called respectively North
Herbertshire and South Herbertshire, both in popu-
lar parlance and in legal documents ; but the reason
or origin of the appellations is totally unknown.
There are scarcely any remains of antiquity con-
nected with this parish. A stone-coffin was found
many years ago at Woodyett, on the north-eastern
extremity. It is said to have borne the date of 1301,
and to have contained human bones. — There was a
very old bridge over the Carron near Denny. The
ancient and principal arch of this old bridge was
built iu the form of four arched rings or couples,
upon which the whole superstructure appeared to
rest. There is only one bridge in this neighbour-
hood built in a similar way; namely, that unique
looking bridge over the Devon, near Tullibody, the
two original arches of which are built with rings or
couples. But in this case the arches are pointed
like the Gothic windows in some of our churches,
whereas in Denny bridge the arches were semicir-
cular or Saxon. This bridge was about 12 feet
wide, and very high. A new one 32 feet wide, and
10 feet lower, was a number of years ago substituted
for it.
The parish of Denny was formerly a vicarage of
the parish of Falkirk, but was separated thence
about the year 1618. It is now in the presbytery
of Stirling, and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron,
the Crown. The stipend was augmented in 1840 to
19 chalders, with an increase of £5 as allowance for
communion elements. The returns before that date
gave stipend, £250 3s. 3d., glebe, £9 13s. 4d., un-
appropriated teinds, £449 0s. lOd. Schoolmaster's
salary now is £50, with about £24 fees. The
parish church stands west of the old village of
Denny, was built in 1813 and repaired in 1838, and
contains 768 sittings. It has a turreted steeple, about
75 feet high. A chapel of ease was built by sub-
scription at Haggs in 1840, after the model of the
church of Camelon, and contains about 700 sittings.
The right of presentation to it belongs to the male
communicants. There is a Free church for Denny :
attendance, 100; receipts in 1865, £161 10s. There
are two United Presbyterian churches, the one at
the town of Denny and the other at Denny-Loan-
head; the former built in 1796, enlarged in 1817,
and containing 600 sittings; the latter built in 1815
at the cost of £1,400, and containing 731 sittings.
There are eight non-parochial schools, one of them
partially endowed. There are either in the town of
Denny or in other parts of the parish three public
libraries, several benefit societies, a farmers' club,
a curling club, and an archers' club. Two annual
fairs are held in the parish, the one about Whit-
sunday and the other about Martinmas.
DENN Y-LO ANHE AD .
376
DESKFOED.
The Town of Denny stands on the north-east
border of the parish, contiguous to the Carron, on
the road from Stirling to Glasgow, 7J miles south
by east of Stirling. Its site is a gentle eminence,
sloping on the north to the Carron, and on the south
to Sclanders burn. The parish church stands 400
yards distant from the nearest part of the Carron ;
and a neat street descends from it to the bridge over
the Carron, here called Denny-bridge. The old
village consisted of a single wide street, or double
row of houses, extending eastward from the church,
along the road to Falkirk. A street which was he-
gun in the present century, and which bears the
name of Herbertshire street, and consists of one row
of neat houses, runs parallel to the old village. The
ascent from the south has of late years been feued
out for neat villas and self-contained houses ; and
it forms a veiy pleasing and even beautiful line
of approach. Upwards of two-thirds of the town
have teen built within the last 50 years. Most of
the houses are of two stories, with garrets, slated
roofs, and sashed windows. The parochial school,
built about 12 years ago, is an ornamental building.
The churches also are creditable structures. " Den-
ny," said the New Statistical Account in 1839, " has
such advantages of situation that, before another
century revolves, it may be a large manufacturing
town, with its provost and bailies, churches, minis-
ters, and elders. About half a century ago, it was
only a hamlet adjoining the church, containing un-
sophisticated prayerful families." The quantity of
business done in it, in connexion with the mills on
the Carron, with the distillery, and with the retail
supply of miscellaneous wares to all classes of the
circumjacent population, is very great. It is lighted
with gas, and has offices of the Clydesdale and the
National Banks. Population in 1841, 1,881 ; in
1861, 2,428. Houses, 250.
DENNY-LOANHEAD, a post-office village in
the parish of Denny, Stirlingshire. It stands at the
forking of the road from Glasgow into the roads
toward respectively Falkirk and Stirling, 1A mile
south of the town of Denny. It is itself a" small
place; but a stretch of the road about a mile in
length immediately to the west of it, is so thickly
planted with houses as to seem almost on the eve
of becoming one continuous street. The United
Presbyterian congregation at Denny - Loanhead,
formerly Antiburgher, originated in a famous non-
intrusion contest in 1735, and was strengthened by
another in 1765, and has ever since been one of the
strongest dissenting congregations in Scotland.
Population in 1851, 74. Houses, 16.
DENOON. See Glahmis.
DENOVAN, an estate, a village, and a calico-
printing establishment, in the parish of Dimipace,
Stirlingshire. The estate comprises about one-fourth
of the parish, and belongs to Forbes of Callendar.
The village is situated on the southern border of the
parish, in the vicinity of Denny. Population in
1851, 104. Houses, 16. The calico-printing estab-
lishment was commenced in the year 1800, and em-
ploys a large number of work-people, many of whom
are resident in Denny. The surrounding scenery
is interesting.
DEECLEUCH (Loch). See Steaiton.
DERCULICH (Loch). See Logieeait.
DEKGAN (The), a rivulet of the parish of Ard-
chattan, Argyleshire. It rises in the mountains of
Glensalloch, and flows northward, along that glen
and through the woods of Barcalahn, to Loch
Creran.
DEENOCK, Darnick, or Darnwick, a post-office
village, in the parish of Melrose, near the right bank
of the Tweed, about a mile above the town of Mel-
rose, Eoxburghsliire. It stands on the road from
Edinburgh to Carlisle by way of Jedburgh, and on
that between Melrose and Selkirk. Its appearance
is smiling and comfortable, and indicates prosperity
and content. It was one of the villages of the hali-
dom of Melrose abbey, and still retains a massive
tower of the 15th century, which seems to have be-
longed to some rich vassal of the abbot. Population
in 1841, 280; in 1851, 348.
DEEVAL. See Daevel.
DESKFOED, a parish, containing a post-office
station of its own name, in the north of Banffshire.
It is bounded by the parishes of Cullen, Fordyce,
Grange, and Eathven. Its northern boundary is
within If mile of the town of Cullen. The parish
has nearly the outline of a parallelogram, and i3
about 5 miles in length from north to south, and 2
to 3 in breadth from east to west. It consists of a
valley running from south-west to north-east, be-
tween two ranges of hills, whence numerous rivulets
descend through small ravines or glens which are
beautifully fringed with hazel and birch. These
rivulets from both sides unite in the valley with the
bum of Deskford, whose primary source is at the
head of the valley, in the adjoining southern parish
of Grange. It runs north-east through the Cullen
burn to the sea. As the banks of the Deskford
burn are also finely bordered with natural wood, the
parish altogether constitutes " one of the most beau-
tiful little straths in the whole country." There are
cascades in many of the rivulets which, in the sum-
mer-floods and winter-thaws, descend with great
impetuosity through the trees, and exhibit many
romantic and picturesque scenes. The Linn is the
most remarkable cascade in the parish. It has a
veiy fine fall of almost 30 feet. The soil of the
lower land in the valley is loam resting on strong
deep clay; but towards the hills it is a light black
mossy soil upon clay and gravel. It is stated in the
New Statistical Account that, of land, either culti
vated or occasionally in tillage, there are 2,800 im-
perial acres; waste or in pasture 5,100,— of which
250 might be profitably cultivated; under wood 600.
Average rent of arable land, 17s. 6d. per acre.
Average gross amount of raw produce, £6,062 8s.
In 1752, the then Lord Deskford — afterwards Earl
of Findlater and Seafield — established a bleachfield
in the north end of the parish, where about 1,500
pieces of cloth and 1,700 spindles of thread-yam
were annually whitened; but a number of years
ago, this establishment dwindled to extinction.
There are two meal mills and a barley mill. There
is an excellent limestone quarry. There formerly
stood, near the centre of the parish, the tower of
Deskford, an ancient castle said to have been built
by the Sinclairs, the immediate predecessors of the
Ogilvies, in the property of the lordship of Deskford.
Its remains were a number of years ago pulled down ;
but Cordiner has preserved a view of it. In the
same vicinity also is the castle of Skuth, which has
now also become ruinous. It is a striking object to
passengers. In the institution at Banff is a curious
antiquity consisting of a brazen swine's head, with
a wooden tongue moved by springs. It was found
about 25 years ago in a mossy knoll at Liechestown,
near the farm of Inalterie, which is supposed to
mean the place of the altar, and where there are re-
mains of a very old and massive but anomalous
structure, in one part of which there is a deep cir-
cular hole enclosed by a wall rising to a consider-
able height in the interior of the building. Close to
it is a vault with a stair descending into it. In the
immediate vicinity, also, there stood till recently
an artificial conical eminence named the Law-hil-
lock— said to have been the ancient scat of justice.
DESK11Y.
377
DEVON.
Another artificial hillock stands within view of this
on the other side of Deskford hum. There is no
modem edifice of any note in tho parish.- Popula-
tion in 1831, 828; in 1801,1,031. Houses, 185. As-
sessed property in 1860, £2,728.
This parish is in the presbytery of Fordyce, and
synod of Aberdeen. It was originally part of For-
dyce, and was afterwards included in Cullen. Pa-
tron, tho Earl of Seafield. Stipend, £103 12s. 10d.;
glebe, £8. Unappropriated teinds, £74 16s. Id.
The parish church adjoins the site of Deskford tower.
There is no date on it ; but one pew bears the date
1627, another 1630. Sittings, 357. There is a Free
church : attendance, 200 ; receipts in 1865, £77 14s.
9d. Sehoolmaster's salary, £52 10s., with about £16
fees, and a share of the Dick bequest. There are
two Free church schools.
DESKRY (The), a rivulet in Aberdeenshire. It
rises on the hill of Morven, near the meeting-point
of the parishes of Glenmuiok, Strathdon, and Logie-
Coldstone, and runs about 9 miles northward and
north-westward, between Strathdon and Logie-Cold-
stone, across the Migvy district of Tarland, and be-
tween that district and the parish of Towie, to a
confluence with the Don about 2 miles below Bella-
big. It is crossed at Eippachy by the high road
from Strathdon to Aberdeen. Its trout are small
but excellent.
DESS (The), a railway station and a rivulet in
Aberdeenshire. The station is on the Deeside rail-
way, 3 miles east of Aboyne. The rivulet runs from
the Loch of Auehlossen to the Dee, and makes a
deep romantic water-fall, called the Stock of Dess.
DEUCALEDONIAN SEA, the part of the At-
lantic which engirdles the Hebridean Islands, and
washes the shores of the Western Highlands. It
was so called by Ptolemy, and other ancient geo-
graphers.
DEUCHAR-SWIEE. See Yarhow.
DEUGH (The), a stream of the north of Kirk-
cudbrightshire. It rises on the confines of Ayr-
shire, and pursues a tortuous course of at least 15
miles in length, through the interior of the parish
of Carsphairn, to a confluence with the Ken, at the
extreme southern angle of that parish. It is the
true parent-stream of the Dee. See Caesphaibn.
DEVAR. See Campbeltoh.
DEVERON (The), or Doveban, a river of Aber-
deenshire and Banffshire. It rises among the
mountains at the southern extremity of Cabrach, in
several head-streams, some of which are in Aber-
deenshire and some in Banffshire, at distances of
about 22 miles south-west of the town of Banff, and
27 south of the mouth of the Spey. It describes a
very serpentine career, but on the whole flows
north-westward to the influx of the Bogie below
Huntly, northward from the influx of the Bogie to
Rothiemay, eastward or east-north-eastward to the
vicinity of Turriff, and northward from the vicinity
of Turriff to the Moray frith at the town of Banff.
Its entire length of run, measured along all the great
or considerable windings, is about 60 miles. Its
connections with respectively Aberdeenshire and
Banffshire are so fitful, leading it now into the one
county, now into the other, and now along the
boundary between them, as to render it more a puz-
zler than an expounder in political topography ; yet,
in one long sweep, from above Glass church to the
vicinity of Rothiemay church, it runs entirely within
Aberdeenshire, and over another long sweep, from a
point 4 miles west- south-west of Turriff to its em-
bouchure at Banff, it forms almost entirely the
boundary-line between the counties. The parishes
immediately watered by it, whether through their
interior or along their margin, are Cabrach, Glass,
Huntly, Cairnie, Fordyce, Rothiemay, Mamoch,
Inverkeithnie, Turriff, Forglcn, Alvacn, King-Ed-
ward, and Banff.
The river, in the upper part of its course, is a
mountain-stream, careering along a series of glens,
always rapid, sometimes impetuous, and occasionally
subject to tremendous inundations. All the bridges
on it above Huntly were swept away by the great
flood of 1829. But its inarch, in the middle and
lower parts of its course, is measured and beautiful,
througn fertile plains, among brilliant artificial de-
corations of wood and park and mansion, with sev-
eral stretches of close scenery as exquisitely fine, in
both nature and art, as almost any in the British
Isles. A new bridge was founded on it at Glass in
the summer of 1853. Its chief tributary, additional
to the Bogie, is the Isla, which joins it a little above
Rothiemay. The Deveron is well stored with trout
and salmon. There is a shifting bar at its mouth
which varies with gales of wind. In 1834, tho
mouth was entirely shut up by this, but broke out
600 yards further to the east. Hence arise frequent
disputes among the cruive owners as to the line of
the river's bed. The produce both of the upper and
the lower fisheries has greatly decreased.
DEVIL'S CAULDRON. See Blame's (St.) Cha-
pel.
DEVIL'S CAVE. See Kilconquhar.
DEVIL'S DIKE. See Deil's Dhce.
DEVIL'S MILL. See Devoh (The).
DEVON (The), a river of Perthshire, Kinross
shire, and Clackmannanshire. It rises near the
water-shed of the southern Ocbils, in the parish of
Blackford, a short distance east of Sheriffmuir,
Perthshire. Its course is at first in an easterly direc-
tion. After flowing for about 2 miles through the
parish of Blackford, and immediately on being joined
by another streamlet from the south, it forms the
boundary between the last-named parish and those
of Tillicoultry and Glendevon. It then enters the
parish of Glendevon, near Clengh burn, and contin-
ues its eastward course till it arrives at the small
village of Miltown at the eastern extremity of Glen-
devon. A little below Miltown it makes a decided
bend toward the south-east, forming the boundary
of the parishes of Glendevon and Muckhart on tho
west, and the parish of Fossaway and the shire of
Kinross on the east, till it reaches the village of
Crook of Devon, where, turning abruptly to tho
south-west, it flows onward in this direction, be-
tween the parishes of Muckhart and Fossaway,
through those of Dollar and Tillicoultry, and along
the southern boundary of Alloa ; and finally enter-
ing Alloa parish, and making a sharp turn to the
south, it falls into the Forth a little above the town
of Alloa, after a total course of fully 30 miles.
The Devon has been celebrated by Bums ; and
from the romantic scenery which adorns its banks,
it is indeed well worthy of being honoured in the
poet's song. Its waters are beautifully pure ; and
the scenery at the Rumbling bridge and the Cal-
dron linn, near the Crook of Devon, where several
remarkable cataracts are formed, is of the most sub-
lime and extraordinary kind. Passing through the
village of the Crook of Devon, we keep the river on
our right for about a mile, and then, descending
along its rocky bed, we soon approach the Falls of
the Devon, — the first of which, called the Devil's
mill, is heard, but not seen. This forms the least
considerable of the falls. The Devon here falls into
an excavation in the solid rock with a noise resem-
bling that of water falling on a mill-wheel. " The
country people," says Gamett, " call it the Devil's
mill, because it pays no regard to Sunday, and works
every day alike." The noise it makes is supposed
DEVON.
378
DEVON.
to be occasioned by tbe water falling over a small
cascade into a deep cavity in the rock below. The
water tossed round with great violence, and con-
stantly beating on the sides of the rock, causes a
clacking noise, similar to that of a mill at work,
which is very distinctly heard when the water has
force enough, by its quantity, to beat on the rock
with violence, and when it is not so high as entirely
to cover the cavity. Near this spot is a cavern
named the Pigeon's cave.
About 350 yards lower down the Devon, is a small
arch, spanning a deep and gloomy chasm, called the
Rumbling bridge, it is so named from the hollow
brawling of the water while forcing its way among
huge fragments of impending rocks ; and. as it hur-
ries along, boiling and foaming in wildest tumult,
the whole scenery adjacent is characteristic of that
fantastic rudeness which Nature delights in exhibit-
ing amid the roar of cascades and the thunder of
cataracts. On looking down the Devon from the
bridge, — a giddy height, — the prospect beneath the
eye is truly sublime. The high, projecting, and
impending precipices on either hand are wooded in
all the capricious varieties of form and ramification
of hazel, willow, birch, and mountain-ash ; from
among which, midway among the craggy steeps,
daws, kites, and other birds that delight in solitude,
are seen sailing in security and freedom. The
southern bank of the Devon forms the middle
ground, and a peep of the Saline hills closes in the
distance. The whole is exceedingly picturesque
and magnificent. In order to command a view of
the wooded cliffs over which the Rumbling bridge
is thrown, it is necessary to come round by the
south bank of the river. The best station is about
a gunshot from the brink of the water, on a gentle
eminence immediately opposite the bridge. Here
the deep and gloomy chasm through which the
river forces its way is seen in one vast cleft, torn as
it were asunder by some terrible convulsion of na-
ture. The small arch, half-seen through the hang-
ing branches which wave wildly over the face of the
rugged steeps, gives an air of grandeur suitable to
the solemn dignity of the scene. The whole is
striking and impressive. Where the old arch is
thrown across, the banks are 86 feet above the wa-
ter. The span of the arch is 22 feet, and its width
12 feet. It was built in the year 1713, by William
Gray, a native of the parish of Saline. Having no
parapet defences, it required some fortitude to walk
across this bridge even in the day-time ; yet it was
used, for upwards of a hundred years, by persons
both on foot and horseback, by night and by day.
In 1 8 1 6, a substantial modern bridge was built over
the old arch — which still remains — the height of
which from the water is 120 feet. There is an ex-
cellent inn in the immediate vicinity of the bridge.
From the Rumbling bridge to the Caldron linn,
or linns, the Devon glides gently along, until, about
a mile below the former, its bed suddenly contracts ;
and as we approach the falls, the distant roar of the
waters becomes imposing and awful. The upper
fall is inconsiderable, yet sufficient to arrest the at-
tention. Soon after comes into view the chasm
through which the river boils and foams from cal-
dron to caldron ; for such are the circular excava-
tions called which the incessant workings of the
waters in the course of ages have caused. In the
upper caldron, the water has so much the appear-
ance of boiling, that it is difficult to divest one's
self of the idea that it is really m a state of violent
ebullition. From this caldron the water finds its
way into a circular cavity, in which it is carried
round and round, though with much less violent
agitation. This second caldron is always covered
with a foam or froth. From this boiler the water
runs into another, larger than either of the other
two, the diameter of it being 22 feet. The water in
this cavity is not agitated like the others, but calm
and placid. When the river is low, these caldrons
communicate with each other, not by the water run-
ning over at their mouths, but by apertures made,
by the force of the waters, in the course of time,
through the rocks which separate them at, perhaps,
the middle depth of the caldrons. From the lower
caldron, the whole body of the stream rushes per-
pendicularly over a rock into a deep and romantic
glen, forming a fine cascade, particularly when
viewed from the bottom of the glen, to which there
is access by a zigzag path. This cascade is 84 feet
below the first fall above the caldrons, and is 44 feet
in height. The rocks which compose the linn are
about twice as high ; so that it appears as if the
water had worn its way from the top to its present
situation, which most probably has been the case.
It falls in one unbroken sheet, without touching
the rock ; and the whiteness of the dashing water is
finely opposed to the almost black colour of the
rocks, which are formed of coarse-grained basalts.
" While we were contemplating this beautiful scene,"
says Dr. Gamett, " the sun happened to shine upon
it, and the spray, which arises from it to a consider-
able height, by refracting the rays of light, exhib-
ited the appearance of a luminous vapour, in which
the different prismatic colours were easily discerni-
ble." Having come round by the foot of the south
bank of the river, and crossed it in front of the pre-
cipice over which the water rushes, we command a
complete view of the great fall of the Devon. A
stupendous pile of solid rocks, over which in one
full, rapid, and powerful torrent, the river precipi
tates itself, presents its rugged front; while frag-
ments of rock which from time to time have been
torn from the face of the craggy steep lie scattered
around in every direction, and in fine harmony with
the rude and fantastic forms of the deep and wooded
dell through which the Devon, as if tired of exer-
tion, seeks silence and repose in its route to gain
the windings of the Forth near Stirling.
There are no cliffs of very lofty elevation in the
gorges of the Devon, — none probably of more than
100 feet in height. The effects of sublimity and
savageness in the scenery are produced chiefly by
the narrowness of the ravines and by the blackness
of the rocks, — two characteristics which combine to
make the recesses look very dark, and to baffle the
attempts of the eye to penetrate their depth, except
where the white foam flings up scintillations of
light, and shows that
" Deep, deep down, and far within,
Toils with the rock the roaring linn."
In many places, also, the river is bewildered, and
the sense of mystery intensified, by the dense foliage
of woods and coppices, and by multitudes of gnarled
trunks and twining roots, seeming like rough liga-
tures firmly fastened round the rocks. Fine planta-
tions overshadow the banks in some parts among
the hills, while " sillar sauchs wi' downy buds,"
dipping their long wavy boughs in the river's pure
bosom, fringe the margin, as it meanders through
the low grounds. Receiving many tributaries, no
mean streams of themselves, the Devon, especially
in winter, when the snow begins to melt, comes
down with fearful strength and rapidity, sweeping
away everything that disputes its progress. Its total
descent comprises a fall of upwards of 2,000 feet ;
its total run of fully 30 miles makes so extraordinary
a reduplication as to leave a distance, as the crow
flies, of not more than about 5 J miles between it°
DEVON.
379
DINGWALL.
source and its embouchure; and its basin is so
ramified among nearly all the southern and south-
eastern Ochils as to send down their drenchings
with rain, with thunder-plump, or with water-spout,
almost in one gush to the plains of Clackmannan.
Its lower part is of no great breadth, and is not
navigable, although Mr. James Watt, who made a
survey of it in 176G, reported that it was quite
capable of being made so tor several miles above its
confluence with the Forth, at an expense of about
£2,000.
DEVON (Tire Black or South), a small river of
Fifeshire and Clackmannanshire. It rises among
the Saline hills, in the north-east of the parish of
Saline, in Fifeshire, and flows 5 miles westward
through that parish, and 6 miles westward and
south-westward through Clackmannanshire, to a
disemboguement in the Forth, on the boundary be-
tween the parish of Clackmannan and the parish of
Alloa. It takes the name of Black Devon from the
gloomy appearance of its waters. Its volume is
very small in droughty seasons, most of its waters
being then collected in dams or reservoirs, for driv-
ing the machinery of mills.
DEVON (Ceook of). See Crook of Devon, and
Devon (The).
DEVON IRON-WORKS. See Clackmannan.
DEVONSIDE, a modern village in the palish of
Tillicoultry, Clackmannanshire. Here is a brick
and tile work. In the immediate vicinity also coal
is wrought. I'opulatiou 317.
DEVON VALLEY RAILWAY, a railway from
the Tillicoultry station of the Stirling and Dunferm-
line to the Fife and Kinross at Hopefield. It is 1 34
miles long, and was opened on 1 May, 1863.
DEWAR, a hamlet in the parish of Heriot, 6i
miles south of Middleton, Edinburghshire. On
Dewar farm is a spot called the Piper's grave, tra-
ditionally associated with a foolish and fatal exploit
of a piper of Peebles. . On Dewar hill, not far from
the grave, is a remarkable large stone called Lot's
wife ; but the reason of its title is unknown. At
a little distance hence is the Wolf cleueh, of
which traditional story asserts that it was once
inhabited by a wolf which laid waste the coun-
try around for a series of years, until a person of
the name of Dewar having encountered the animal,
killed it, and received for his reward a gift of the
adjoining lands.
DEWARTON, a village in the parish of Borth-
wick, Edinburghshire. It consists chiefly of feus
on the estate of Vogrie. It has a neat appearance,
and seems to be pleasant and healthy above most
places of its class. One side of the road is occupied
by the houses, ranged in a single line ; while the
other side is occupied by a small plantation, tra-
versed by a limpid copious stream. Population in
1851. 193. Houses, 42.
DHTJISK (The), or Dcsk, a rivulet of the south
of Carriek, Ayrshire. It rises on the south-east
verge of the county, in the vicinity of the sources
of the Cree, and runs about 10 miles north-eastward
to the Stinchar, at a point about 3J miles above the
village of Colmonell. It receives on its left bank
the affluent of Cross Water, and on its right bank
the affluents of the Feoch and the Muck.
DHULOCH. See Wick and Crajg-Dhoxoch.
DICHMONT. See Caubuslaxg.
DICHMONT LAW, a hill in the parish of St.
Vigeans, and about 3 miles from the coast, in For-
farshire. It rises about 670 feet above the level of
the sea, and has on its summit a large cairn, hol-
lowed in the middle, and now covered with grass,
where anciently certain barons held their courts.
DICHTY (The), a small river in the south of
Forfarshire, of about 15 miles in length of course.
It rises in four head-streams, three of them from
small lakes, among the Sidlaw hills in the west of
the parish of Lundie. Flowing — with the excep-
tion of brief sinuosities — nearly due east, it tra-
verses the parishes of Auchterhouse, Strathmartine,
and Mains, intersects the eastern wing of Dundee,
where it receives the tribute of Fishy water, and
after advancing half-way through Monifieth, de-
bouches suddenly to the south, and falls into the
frith of Tay 2 miles east of Broughty ferry. During
its course it drives several mills; and it contains
trout and a few salmon.
DIGMOEE, a small harbour near the middle of
the coast of North Uist, in the Outer Hebrides.
DILLICHIP. See Bonhill.
DILTY MOSS, a morass in the parishes of Car-
mylie and Guthrie. Forfarshire, about 2 miles long,
and 1J broad. It is remarkable for giving rise to
two streams which, though both eventually finding
their way into the German ocean, traverse Forfar-
shire from near its centre in opposite directions.
At its north-east end rises the Elliot, which pursues
a course to the south of east, and falls into the sea
in the parish of Arbirlot ; and at its south-west end
rises a rivulet which flows to the north of west till
it falls into the Dean, and then, as identified with
that stream, flows westward till it leaves the county.
See Carmyije.
DINAET (The), a river in Sutherlandshire,
which takes its origin from Loch Dowl, a small
lake in the Dire More, or ' Great forest ; ' and after
a northerly course of 15 miles, along the base of the
Conval and Tonvam mountains, falls into Durness
bay between Farout-head and Cape Wrath. It pro
duces plenty of salmon.
DINGWALL, a parish, containing a royal burgh
of the same name, at the head of the Cromarty frith
in Ross-shire. It is bounded on the east, by the
parish of Kilteam; on the north, by the vast mass
of Benwyvis ; and on the west and south, by the
parish of Fodderty. That part of the parish of
Urquhart, called Ferintosh, lies on the skirt to the
south-east; but Dingwall parish is divided from it
by the river Conan, which, at high water, is widen-
ed to about half-a-mile by the influx of the sea.
Excluding a small district, peopled by few inhabi
tants, and divided from the rest by a high hill,
Dingwall parish forms an oblong peninsula of 14 by
2 miles. It consists partly of a pretty extensive
valley, and partly of the sloping sides of hills, a
great portion of which is in a high state of cultiva-
tion. See Strathteffer. The waste ground is not
very considerable; there are no commons; the great
bulk of the land is either in pasture or under cul-
ture ; and the whole forms a beautiful interchange
of hill and valley, wood and water, corn-fields and
meadows. The soil in general is abundantly fer-
tile, and the greater part uncommonly rich. There
are some rivulets, but no river except the Conan.
About 2 miles to the south-west of the town is a
small lake, called Ousie. The sea, at high water,
washes a considerable part of the parish on the
south-east, running in apparent canals along the
side of the town, and forming a beautiful variety of
islets and peninsulas ; but, even at high tide, it is
very shallow for several miles down the frith ; and,
at low water, it recedes to the distance of nearly 4
miles, leaving nothing but a slimy strand. It is
thought that about 200 acres of ground here might
easily be reclaimed. About 1,400 acres in the
parish are under wood, and 2,400 in tillage. The
land rent at the close of last century, was about
£1,200. The value of assessed property in 1860
was £7.506 odds. The total yearly value of ravs
DINGWALL.
380
DINGWALL.
produce was estimated in 1837 at £15,854 15s. 8d.;
of which £700 was for timher, £600 for fisheries,
and £50 for quarries. The parish is traversed hy
the Highland railway, and has a station on it at the
town. Population in 1831,2,124; in 1861, 2,412.
Houses, 387.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Eoss. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, 244
8s. lid.; glebe, £30. Unappropriated teinds, £54
14s. lOd. Schoolmaster's salary now is £50, with
about £40 fees. The parish church was built in
1801, and contains about 800 sittings. There is a
Free church, with an attendance of about 1,250, and
an income in 1865 of £566 lis. lOd. There is an
Episcopalian chapel, with an attendance of from 50
to 100. There are a Free church school, and ladies'
boarding and day schools.
Dingwall, a royal burgh in the above parish, a
post town, a market town, a seaport, and the poli-
tical capital of Ross-shire, of Cromartyshire, and
of part of Nairnshire, is pleasantly situated at the
mouth of the fertile valley of Strathpeffer, at the
head of the Cromarty frith, and on the great north
road, 19 miles north-west of Inverness by Beauly,
13J by Kessock, 26 south-west by south of Tain, 7
east of Contin, and 174J miles north-west by north
of Edinburgh. It chiefly consists of a main street
running east and west on the old Strathpeffer road.
At the west end of this street, a small street runs
north towards the Peffer; and at the east end, a
large street, called Castle-street, extends from Cas-
tle hill to the main street, and thence, under the
name of Hill-street, to a hill on the south. The town
is lighted with gas, supplied with water, and other-
wise possessed of appliances of comfort. Many of
its houses are neat; its aggregate appearance is
pleasant; and, though its site is low and rather
damp, being a piece of level ground scarcely four
feet above high flood-mark, yet a close zone of
hedge-rows and clumps of trees, the richness of the
circumjacent country, the pleasure-grounds of Tul-
loch castle on its north side, the finely-wooded bill
of Tulloch rising 800 feet high about a mile to the
north, the luxuriant beauties of Strathpeffer and
Strathconan, and the diversified scenery of the
Mullbuy on the south, the Cromarty frith on the
north-east, and the immensely massive Benwyvis
on the north-west, combine to give it the sweet
softness of an English village encompassed by some
of the grandest witcheries of characteristically Scot-
tish landscape.
The most remarkable building in Dingwall is a
fine castellated edifice, containing court-house,
county-rooms, and prison, " conspicuous on the
plain as we enter from the south, and much finer
and more comfortable as a residence than almost
any of its inmates were before accustomed to."
The town-house is a curious old-fashioned building,
with a spire. The town has two good hotels, the
Caledonian and the National. Near the town is a
vestige of the ancient residence of the Earls of Eoss.
It was built close to the shore, and was at one time
almost surrounded by the Peffer, into which the tide
flowed at high water. What was not surrounded
by the sea had a deep ditch and a regular glacis.
The site of this castle is now occupied by a modern
mansion. The Earls of Eoss were the most power-
ful of the northern barons, and many of the ancient
families in Eoss-shire held their estates by charters
from them, dated, " apud castrum nostrum de Ding-
wall." Near the church is an obelisk, 57 feet high,
though only 6 feet square at the base. It was
erected by George, first Earl of Cromarty, and was
intended to distinguish the burying-place of the
family.
" Dingwall," say the Messrs. Anderson, " must
have been long a sort of terra incognita to all the
world except its own worthy neighbours; for we
find in the council records of Inverness, so late as
the year 1733, that an embassage was projected by
the magistrates to ascertain the condition of this
burgh. The enterprising and intelligent baillie,
who conducted it, reported that there was no prison,
but there was ' a lake close to the town, which kept
people from kirk and market for want of a bridge ;
that there was no trade in the town, but that there
were one or two inclined to cany on trade if they
had a harbour.' The council of Inverness treasured
up this information in then: minutes, and directed
their cashier to pay to the bailie £8 Scots for his
expenses." But now, as at once a county town, a
stage on the great north road, the vestibule to the
Strathpeffer mineral wells, the centre of an agricul-
tural district, an entrepot to the navigation of the
Cromarty frith, and the point of union of the high-
lands of Wester Eoss with the more fertile county
of the Black Isle, Dingwall has both become abun
dantly well known and enjoys a favourable situa-
tion for trade. Yet it has no manufactures; and
even its commerce is very limited, being confined
on the one hand to the importation of the several
articles of merchandise which are required for the
supply of the immediately circumjacent country,
and on the other to the exportation of so much corn,
timber, bark, or other country produce as can be
conveniently procured to form a freight for the few
vessels which come laden into its harbour. A mile
below the bridge and town, coasting-vessels used to
be loaded and unloaded on the mud at low water, their
cargoes being carried on a bad road to and from the
east end of the town. This inconvenience was re-
medied in 1815-7, by shaping the lower end of the
Peffer into a regular canal 2,000 yards in length,
with two wharves at which vessels of 9 feet draft of
water find accommodation. The expense of these
improvements amounted to £4,365, of which £1,786
were furnished by the Highland road commissioners,
and £600 by the convention of burghs. The aver-
age income of the harbour is £137. A weekly corn
market is held every Saturday. Fairs, chiefly for
cattle and comity produce, and all distinctively and
peculiarly named, are held, the New- Year market,
on the third Wednesday of January; the Candle-
mas, on the third Wednesday of February; Janet's,
on the first Wednesday of June; Colin's, on the
first Tuesday of July; Feil-Maree, on the first
Wednesday of September; Martha's, on the first
Wednesday of November; and Pepper, on the
Tuesday before Christmas, old style. The town
derives advantage in summer from visitors to the
Strathpeffer wells. It has communications north
and south by the Highland railway, and in other
directions by coaches in summer ; and it commands
access to the great coast steamers at Invergordon.
It has offices of the Caledonian Bank, the City of
Glasgow Bank, and the National Bank, and offices
of fifteen insurance companies; and is the seat of the
Fingal mason lodge and the Wester Eoss Farmer
society.
Dingwall was erected into a royal burgh by
Alexander II. in 1227 ; and its privileges were
further confirmed by a charter granted in the reign
of James IV., and confirmed by James VI. in 1587.
It was entitled by these charters " to all the privi-
leges, liberties, and immunities possessed by the
burgh of Inverness." It is governed by a provost,
and 15 councillors, and joins with Tain, Dornoch,
Wick, and Kirkwall, in sending a member to par-
liament. Municipal and parliamentary constitu-
ency in 1865, 120. Eevenue in 1864-5, £210.
DLNLABYKE.
381
DIRLETON.
" Dingwall," says the Parliamentary report on
Municipal Corporations in Scotland, "hail at one
time a considerable extent of landed property, which
does not, however, appear to have been turned to
much account while in the possession of the burgh,
nor to have produced any considerable revenue.
The town property began to be feued out, and far
the greater part was so alienated, more than forty
years ago. In most cases the grants were made to
persons connected with or influential in the burgh,
and without any competition or publication. But
although, in such circumstances, the interests of
the community were sometimes sacrificed, on other
occasions the alienation of a large tract affording
only pasture was sufficiently compensated by a
very small permanent revenue, joined to the ad-
vantage arising from the extensive plantations or
agricultural improvements of the vassals. Within
the last forty years the management of the town-
property has been comparatively pure; and latterly,
alienations have taken place only after public adver-
tisement, and by public sale, except in a very few
instances, where small plots of ground, for erecting
warehouses, or other such purposes, have been
granted on the petition of individuals, for an annual
duty fully equal to the value of the laud. The
burgh now retains only seven or eight acres in pro-
perty, which, with the superiority of certain lands
held feu of the burgh, and fishings in the river
Conan and the Dingwall frith, produce altogether
an average rental of £273 7s. 2d. sterling." The
jurisdiction of the magistrates, which extends over
the royalty, is in practice confined to the trial of
assaults and other petty crimes, and to the decision
of actions of debt, processes of removing, sequestra-
tion, encroachment and other civil causes to a very
limited extent. Their whole functions as judges
even ten years ago, were rapidly passing into the
bands of the sheriff. The magistrates and council
have no patronage except the appointment of the
town clerk at a salary of 10 guineas, two burgh-
officers at £ 5 each, the keeper of the town-clock at
£5, and a kirk-officer at a salary of 5s. annually.
There are no incorporated trades claiming exclusive
privileges. Persons carrying on merchandise within
the burgh must, however, take out their freedom as
burgesses, the expense of which varies from 5 to
15 guineas, according to the nature and probable
extent of the trade to be carried on ; or they may
obtain a temporary license from the magistrates
to open shop at the rate of 5s. a-day or less. The
burgh has adopted the general police act known as
Loch's Act; and the magistrates and council for the
time being are the commissioners under it. Ding-
wall was constituted by the Reform act the return-
ing burgh of Ross-shire; aud by an act passed in
August 1843, it was appointed to be in all time
thereafter the head-burgh of the counties of Ross
and Cromarty and of the Ferintosh district of
Nairnshire. A sheriff court is held here eveiy Fri-
day during session; and a small debt court also
every Friday. It would appear, from several cir-
cumstances, that anciently this town was much
greater than at present. Causeways and founda-
tions of houses have been found some hundred yards
from where the town now stands. Above the town,
the Peffer used to spread itself into a small morass,
which has been successfully drained: Dingwall
gave the title of baron in 1609 to the noble family of
Preston; but the title was attainted in 1716, in the
person of James, second Duke of Ormond. Popula-
tion in 1841, 1,739; in 1861, 1,474. Houses, 325.
DINGY'S HOW. See Deerxess.
DINLABYRE, an ancient chapehy in the parish
of Castleton, Roxburghshire. The chapel is de-
molished, but many gravestones remain near it h
site. It is on the eastern side of the Liddel.
DINNET BURN, a small tributary of the Aber-
deenshire Dee. It receives the supernuent waters of
Lochs Kinerd and Dawin in the parishes of Tullich
and Logie Coldstone, and runs along the boundary
between the parish of Aboyne and the parish of
Olenmuick, to a confluence with the Dee 4 miles
above Charleston of Aboyne. It may be regarded
as the line of demarcation between the lowlands
and the highlands of Deeside.
DINWOODIE, a station on the Caledonian rail-
way, in the parish of Applegarth, 6J miles north of
Lockerby, Dumfries- shire. Dinwoodie is also a dis-
trict of the parish of Applegarth : which see.
DIPPEN POINT, a grandly mural headland,
and very conspicuous maritime landmark, on the
south-east coast of the island of Arran, 1J mile
north-east of Kildonan castle, and 4J miles south of
the southern entrance of Lamlash bay, Buteshire.
" It is a noble range of precipices," says Andersons'
Guide to the Highlands, " rising perpendicularly
from the sea a height of 300 feet. A somewhat
hazardous footing can be found along the base of
the cliffs. The dash of the waves close at hand,
and the screams of the wild fowl over-head, conspire
to tiy the nerves of the adventurous wayfarer. At
one point, a stream issuing from the brink is pro-
jected beyond the base of the rocks, forming an arch
of whitened spray well known to mariners."
DIPPLE, an ancient rectory, now comprehended
in the parish of Speymouth, lj mile west of Focha-
bers. The church, which is now demolished, was
dedicated to the Holy Ghost ; but the churchyard is
still in use. At the stile of the churchyard, there
formerly stood a small house commonly called ' The
House of the Holy Ghost; ' around which, following
the course of the sun, the people usually made a
tour with the corpse at burials, nor could they be
restrained from this superstition until the walls of
this edifice were quite destroyed. The parson of
Dipple was titular of Rathven in the district of
Strathbogie.
DIPPOOL WATER, a rivulet of the north-east
of Lanarkshire. It rises on the confines of Edin-
burghshire, and runs about 7 J miles south-westward,
through the centre of the parish of Carnwatb, to a
confluence with the Mouse on the confines of Car-
stairs parish.
DIRIE (The), or Dikry, a headstreara of the
Conon, flowing south-eastward nearly in the centre
of Ross-shire, giving the name of Strathdirie to the
wild mountain glen which it traverses, and taking
up the road from Dingwall to Ullapool.
DIRLET CASTLE, an ancient fortaliee, nearly in
the centre of the parish of Halkirk, Caithness-shire.
It stands in a beautiful romantic place, on a round
high rock, almost perpendicular on all sides. The
rock and castle hang over a very deep dark pool in
the river Thurso, which runs close by its side. On
each side of the river and the castle, are two other
rocks much higher, looking down over the castle
with a stately and lowering majesty, and fencing it
on these sides. The last inhabitant was a descend-
ant of the noble family of Sutherland. He was
called in Erse the Ruder Derg, that is, ' the Red
knight.' Having been denounced a rebel for his
oppressive and violent practices, he was apprehended
by Mackay of Farr, his own uncle, and died while
on his way to Edinburgh — some say to Stirling — to
be tried for his life.
DIRLETON. a parish, containing the post-office
villages of Dirleton, Gulane, and Kingston, also the
village of Fenton, on the coast of Haddingtonshire.
It is bounded on the west and on the north by the
DIELETON.
382
DIRLETON.
frith of Forth, and on the other sides by the parishes
of North Berwick, Athelstaneford, and Aberlady.
Its greatest length from east to west is 5 J miles;
and its greatest breadth is 4i miles. Peffer burn,
flowing to the head of Aberlady bay, traces the
southern boundary. Along the coast, and within a
short distance of the shore, are three little rocky
islets, viz., Fiddrie or Fetteray, Eyehrocky, and the
Lamb. The coast presents a broad strip of flat
sandy holms or links, edged on the landward side by
richly-cultivated fields, and seaward by a fine sandy
beach. Dirleton common, which lies between the
village and the sea, is perhaps the finest coursing-
field in Scotland. The soil is a dry sand, covered
with a smooth short sward, without any admixture
of stones. It is likewise free of fences. Towards
Gulane point, the coast is rocky; and considerable
encroachments have been made upon the arable land
in that quarter by the blowing of the sand. The
total superficial extent of the parish is 7,500 Scots
acres, of which about 5,300 are arable, and nearly
2,000 are occupied with links and sandy hillocks.
The valued rent was £10,262 Scots. The real rent
toward the end of last century was £6,000. It is
now more than double of that sum. Mrs. Hamilton
Nisbet Ferguson is the proprietor of about two-thirds
of the lands of the parish, and the superior of nearly
the whole ; and her residence of Archerfield, a plain
commodious building, situated in a level park, and
commanding an extensive view of the frith, is the
only mansion. The parish is traversed through its
centre, by the road from Edinburgh to North Ber-
wick, and across its east wing by the North Berwick
branch of the North British railway. Population in
1831, 1,384 ; in 1861, 1,540. Houses, 308. Assessed
property in 1866, £14,361 4s.
In the 12th century, the Anglo-Norman family of
De Vallibus or De Vaux, obtained a grant of the
manors of Golyn and Dirleton, with part of Fenton.
During the reign of William the Lion, William de
Vaux bestowed the church of Golyn — rated at 80
marks in the Taxatio — on the monks of Dryburgh.
In the same reign there was a chapel dedicated
to St. Nicholas on Fiddrie isle in this parish. In
1298, De Vaux's castle at Dirleton greatly harassed
the march of the English army under Edward by
sorties on its rear, and was besieged by Antony
Beck, the martial bishop of Durham, in behalf of
Edward I., to whom it surrendered after a desperate
defence. During the reign of Alexander III. a cha-
pel was founded at Dirleton by Alexander de Valli-
bus; and in 1444, a collegiate church was founded
at Dirleton by Sir Walter Halyburton, who, in
1392, had succeeded his father in the estate of
Dirleton, which had passed into the family by a
female heiress during the reign of David II. Sir
AValter married the daughter of the regent Albany,
and, in 1440, was created Lord Dirleton. The
eldest daughter of Patrick, 6th Lord Dirleton, who
died in 1506, carried the title and estate into the
family of Ruthven. The castle and estate, says Sir
Walter Scott, in his ' Border Antiquities,' " was the
bribe which the last unhappy Earl of Gowrie held
out to the cupidity of Logan, his associate in the
memorable conspiracy. It seems to have been
coveted by that person in the highest degree. ' I
care not,' says Logan in his correspondence, ' for
all the other land I have in the kingdom, if I may
grip of Dirleton, for I esteem it the pleasantest
dwelling in Scotland.' But Dirleton, included in
Euthven's forfeiture, passed to other hands, and
was bestowed on Sir Thomas Erskine, who had lent
the King active assistance against the efforts of the
conspirators. He was created Viscount Fenton and
Baron Dirleton. In the civil wars, Dirleton was for
a time occupied by a party of the Scottish guerilla,
called then moss-troopers. Monk marched against
them with four pieces of ordnance and a mortar ; he
was joined by Lambert, and besieged the place,
which having surrendered at discretion, the captain
of the moss-troopers — one Waite — and two of his
followers, were executed by martial law. This was
ill the year 1650. Dirleton castle became, after the
Restoration, the property of Sir John Nisbet, king's
advocate. His male line having become extinct in
the person of the late Mr. Nisbet of Dirleton, the
property descended to his daughter, the present
Mrs. Ferguson of Raith." Its massive structure,
and the peculiar and praiseworthy care taken to
preserve it from rude encroachment, by the tasteful
proprietor, are likely to preserve this noble and
graceful relic of feudal ages to many future genera-
tions. The whole has been enclosed with a hand-
some wall, which includes within its circuit not
only the whole of the ruins, but also a fine bowling-
green and a handsome flower-garden, to all of which
access is readily granted to visitors of respectable
appearance and deportment. Grose has given a
poor view of Dirleton castle. It has had more jus
tice done it in the ' Border Antiquities.'
This parish is in the presbytery of Haddington,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Lady
M. Hamilton. Stipend, £336 2s. 4d.; glebe, £21.
Unappropriated teinds, £315 19s. 4d. Schoolmas-
ter's salary, £34 4s. 4d., with £33 fees. The parish
church stands in the immediate northern vicinity of
the village of Dirleton, and contains about 600 sit-
tings. There is a Free church; and the sum raised
in connexion with it in 1865 was £70 12s. 8|d.
There are two private schools, three public libraries,
a savings' bank, and a friendly society. The origi-
nal name of the parish was Golyn, modernized into
Gulane ; and the ruins of the former parish church
still stand in good preservation at the village of
Gulane.
The Village of Dirleton stands near the centre
of the parish of Dirleton, on the road from Edin-
burgh to North Berwick, 7 miles north of Hadding-
ton. It is one of the most beautiful villages in
Scotland. The greater number of the houses were
rebuilt by Mrs Ferguson in thecottage ornee style.
Each cottage is surrounded with its own plot of
flowers and shrubs; and the whole are scattered
along two sides of the spacious triangular village
green, of which a third side is occupied with the
magnificent remains of Dirleton castle, and its fine
garden and bowling-green. Population, in 1861, 354.
We know not a lovelier scene of its class than is
presented by this village, — with its fine green, its
noble pile of ivy-clad ruins, and the distant rock-
gemmed frith, — especially in a summer eve, or when
the light —
" The silver light, which, hallowing tree and bower,
Sheds beauty and deep softness on the whole," —
is resting upon the fading landscape. The easile
might he aptly enough apostrophized in the words
of an anonymous poet : —
" The grandeur of the olden time
Mantled thy towers with pride sublime,
Enlivening all who near'd them ;
From Hippocras aud Sherris sack,
Palmer, or pilgrim, turn'd not back,
Before thy cellars cheer'd them.
Since thine unbroken early day,
How many a race hath passed away;
Iu enamel-vault to moulder! -■
Yet nature round thee breathes an air
Serenely bright and softly fair.
To shame the awed beholder
DIVIE.
383
DOLLAR.
The past is Imt n gorgeous drenm,
And time glides by us like ft stream,
While musing on thy story;
Ami sorrow prompts ft deep tdus!
Tlutt like ft pftgeftnt thou should pass
To wreck nil human glory! "
DIRRINGTON. See Longformacds.
DIRRY (The). See Dhue (The).
DISTINCT-HORN. See Galston.
DIVACH (The). Seo Coiltie (The) and Uk-
QUUAUT.
DIVIE (The), a short picturesque stream of
Morayshire. It rises among the hills on the south-
ern border of the parish of Edenldllie, and runs
north-westward about ten miles, including sinu-
osities, to the Findhorn. It is joined § of a mile he-
low Edenldllie church, by the Dorbaeh, which has a
length of run similar to the Divie's own previous
length, or about seven miles. The Divie almost
vies with the Findhorn in wildness, variety, and ro-
mantic brilliance of scenery ; and, when in flood, it
becomes at times wonderful and even terrible.
DOCHART, a lake, a river, and a glen, in the
parish of Killin, Perthshire. The lake is about 3
miles in length from east to west, and contains a
floating islet, 51 feetlongand29 broad. Thisappears
to have been gradually formed — like others of the
same kind — by the natural intertexture of the roots
and stems of some water-plants. It moves before
the wind, and may be pushed about with poles.
Cattle going unsuspectingly to feed upon it are liable
to be carried on a voyage round the lake. On an-
other, but stationary island, stand the ruins of a
castle, the ancient residence of the Campbells of
Loch Awe. It is embowered with wood, and has a
very romantic appearance. The river Fillan runs
into the west end of the loch. The river Dochart
issues from the east end of the loch, and runs about
10 miles east-north-eastward along Glen Dochart, to
join the Lochy and fall into Loch Tay at the village
of Killin. The glen is romantic ; and the river, just
above the bridge of Killin, makes picturesque and
much-admired falls. See Killin.
DOCHFClUR (Loch), a sheet of water, 4 miles
south-west of Inverness. It is properly not a dis-
tinct lake, but only a small terminating wing of
Loch Ness, and is sometimes called Little Loch Ness.
See Caledonian Canal. A burn, with some fine
cascades, called Dochfour burn, falls into the lake.
Dochfonr house, contiguous to the lake's margin, is
an elegant modern mansion in the cottage style.
The surrounding scenery is very fine, whether up to
the mountains or away to Inverness.
DOCHGARROCH. See Caledonian Canal.
DOGDEN. See Greenlaw and Westkdther.
DOL-, a prefix in the Celtic names of a few places,
signifying a flat field or a meadow, and used in com-
position, in a descriptive manner, — as Dol-ard,
modernized into Dollar, ' the high flat field.'
DOLL (The), a glen and rivulet on the south-
west of Clova, near the summit range of the Forfar-
shire Grampians. It is a fine haunt for the botanist.
DOLLAR, a parish, containing a small post-town
of its own name, in Clackmannanshire. It is bound-
ed by the parishes of Glendevon, Muekhart, Fossa-
way, Clackmannan, and Tillicoultry. Its length from
north to south is about 3 miles; and its greatest
breadth about 1 \ mile. Its general aspect is that of
a beautiful plain or valley, having the Ochils for its
northern boundary, and a gently rising ground con-
fining it on the south. The river Devon runs through
it in a meandering course from east to west. The
central part of the parish, in which the town is situ-
ated, forms a somewhat large and slightly sloping
plain with a southern exposure, and beautifully in-
terspersed with hamlets, farm-houses, and enclosures.
The soil of that portion of the parish which extends
from the bills to near the Devon is light and gravelly;
on the banks of the river the land is more moist and
clayey. Tho Ochils afford excellent pasture for
sheep, and the mutton and wool produced here aro
of a superior quality. The parish abounds in excel-
lent coal, which is worked in several places and ex-
ported in large quantities to considerable distances
in Perthshire. Iron also abounds, and veins of cop-
per and lead were formerly wrought in the Ochil
hills a little way above the town of Dollar. The
ores are said to have been exported to some extent
to Holland. Silver has likewise been found in a
glen to the west of Castle-Campbell, and pebbles of
some value are occasionally picked up on the top of
a hill called the White Wisp. There are two excel-
lent stone quarries. The principal landowners are
the Globe Insurance Company, Haig of Dollarfield,
Murrayof Dollarbeg, and three others. The total
yearly value of agricultural produce was estimated
in 1841 at £15,219 18s. 6d. The assessed property
in 1866 was £6,049. A large bleachfield on the
banks of the Devon has existed since 1787. There
is also a small woollen manufactory connected with
the mills of Alva. There are likewise two tile- works,
the larger of which, though a few yards beyond the
eastern boundary, nevertheless belongs, as to all its
workpeople, to Dollar. A chalybeate spring of ex-
traordinary power, or rather a rill collected from
rock-drippings, was discovered in 1830 at Vicar's
Bridge, during a process of excavation for clay iron-
stone. Its water has a brandy colour, keeps un-
changed in any climate, and is sold by some drug-
gists in large towns. It is powerfully astringent,
cures wounds and braises, and is taken internally in
small quantities. Dr. Thomson of Glasgow found an
imperial gallon of it to contain 5'87 grains of muriate
of soda, 170-99 of sulphate of soda, 953*18 of the sul-
phate of alumina, 1753-1 of the dipersulphate of iron,
141-55 of the persulphate of iron, and 58'7 of silica.
The greater part of the parish formerly belonged to
the Argyle family; but in 1605 the whole property
was feued out, with the exception of Castle-Campbell
and two neighbouring farms. Two ancient sepul-
chral tumuli are situated at a short distance from the
town of Dollar. One of them, on being opened about
fifty years ago, was found to contain two urns filled
with human bones. The most interesting remain ol
antiquity, however, is Castle-Campbell : which see.
The parish is traversed by the road from Stirling to
Kinross, and enjoys ready access to the Tillicoultry
branch of the Stirling and Dunfermline railway.
Population in 1831, 1,447 ; in 1861, 1,776. Houses,
282.
This parish is in the presbytery of Stirling, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Globe In-
surance Company. Stipend, £158 10s. 7d.; glebe,
£18. The parish church was built in 1841, and con-
tains upwards of 600 sittings. It is a very beautiful
and imposing structure, and stands on a rising-
ground in a conspicuous situation, so as to constitute
a marked feature in a very brilliant landscape.
There is a Free church for Dollar and Muekhart :
attendance about 250; sum raised in 1865, £955 16s.
8d. The parochial schoolmaster has a salary of
now £35, with £12 fees, and £6 14s. other emol-
uments. Grand educational appliances exist in
Macnab's school or Dollar Institution. This is a
large, famous, first-class educational establishment,
founded in 1819, by a bequest of nearly £100,000
from John Macnab, Esq., a native of the parish, who
rose from indigence to wealth, and settled at Mile-
end in London. It comprises school - buildings,
masters' houses, a library, a botanic garden, a play-
ing-field, and other fust-class conveniences. The
DOLLAR-LAW.
384
DON.
main buildings form an elegant Grecian edifice.
The branches taught are English, English composi-
tion, writing, arithmetic, hook-keeping, geography,
drawing, botany, physics, mathematics, French,
German, Italian, Latin, Greek, and Hebrew. The
teachers are a principal and nine masters. There
are likewise connected with the institution girls'
and infants' departments.
The Town op Dollar stands on the road from
Stirling to Kinross, on a rising ground in the east-
ern part of the parish of Dollar, 12 miles north-east
of Stirling, and about the same distance north-west
of Dunfermline and south-west of Kinross. The
scenery around it, particularly along the course of
the Devon, and up the acclivities of the nearest
Ochils, is interesting, varied, and replete with char-
acter. The town comprises the two vDlages of Old
Dollar and New Dollar ; and it borrows both some con-
sequence from ancient associations and much pic-
turesqueness from its chief modern buildings. The
old village, with the exception of two tenements,
was burnt in 1645 by Montrose's Highlanders, on
their march to Kilsyth; one of the two excepted
tenements being spared on the ground that it was
supposed to belong to a neighbouring parish,
and the other on the ground that it was supposed
to belong to the Dunfermline abbey. The town
contains an office of the Clydesdale Bank. Fairs
are held on the second Monday of May, the third
Thursday of June, the second Monday of August,
and the third Monday of October. Population of
the town in 1841, 1,131 ; in 1861, 1,540. Houses,
174.
DOLLAR-LAW, a mountain on the mutual boun-
dary of Drnmmelzier and Manor parishes in Peebles-
shire. It rises 2,840 feet above the level of the sea,
and commands an extensive view over the Lothians,
Berwickshire, and Northumberland.
DOLLAS. See Dallas.
DOLPHINSTON, a village in the parish of Pres-
tonpans, Haddingtonshire. It stands on the road
from Edinburgh to Haddington, 2 miles west of
Tranent. Here are several broken walls and gables,
evidently of great antiquity, and probably monastic.
Population, 63.
DOLPHINTON, a parish, containing a post-office
station of its own name, on the eastern border of the
upper ward of Lanarkshire. It is bounded on two
of its four sides by Peebles-shire, and on the other
two by the parishes of Dunsyre and Walston. It
extends three miles in length from east to west, by
2J in breadth, and contains 2,926 statute acres. It
is in a high-lying district, and contains a mountain
named Dolphinton-hill, which is computed to rise
1 ,550 feet above the level of the sea, and which may
be considered to form one of the links of the great
mountain-chain which binds the island from St.
Abb's Head to Ailsa Craig. With the exception of
this hill, and of a conical mount named Keir-hill,
the parish is all arable, although most of it lies at
the elevation of from 700 to 800 feet above the level
of the sea. The soil is generally of a dry friable
earth or sandy loam. The parish has a branch rail-
way from the Peebles at Leadburn. Formerly, a
weekly market and two annual fairs were held at
Dolphinton ; but these have long since fallen into
desuetude. Certain corn, lint, and waulk mills
which once existed in the parish, have likewise
passed away; and; altogether, by comparing the
present reality with charters still in existence, it
would appear that the parish is now a place of much
less consequence than it was in the olden time.
The principal landowner is Mackenzie of Dolphin-
ton. The real rental is about £2,800. The yearly
value of raw produce was estimated in 1834 at
£5,953. Assessed property in 1860, £2,795 odds.
Population in 1831, 302 ; in 1861, 260. Houses, 47.
This parish is in the presbytery of Biggar, and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Lord
Douglas. Stipend, £158 6s. 7d. ; glebe, £27 10s.
The church is a very old building; sittings, 140.
Schoolmaster's salary, £36, with £12 fees, and some
other emoluments. There is a parochial library.
Dolphinton is understood to have received its name
from the acquirement of the property by Dolfine,
the eldest brother of Cospatrick, 1st earl of Dunbar,
some time in the reign of Alexander I. How long
it remained in the possession of Dolfine's descend-
ants is not known ; but it is certain that, at an early
period, the manor and patronage of the clmrch be-
came a pertinent of the baronial territory of Both-
well. After remaining for a time in the possession
of the house of Douglas, Dolphinton reverted to the
Crown. In 1483, James III. presented it to Sir
James Ramsay, one of the most accomplished of his
favourites. After the assassination of James, Ram-
say was denuded of the property, and James IV.
conferred it, in 1488, on the master of his household,
Patrick Hepburn, Lord Hales. In 1492, Hepburn
exchanged Dolphinton and other lands, with the
Earl of Angus, for certain territories in Liddesdale,
including the important castle of Hermitage; hut
the superiority was still retained by the Hepburns
till 1567, when it was forfeited along with the other
domains of the ambitious and unprincipled Earl of
Bothwell. It afterwards passed into the hands of
Francis Stewart, Earl of Bothwell, but again re-
verted to the Crown upon his attainder in 1593.
Soon after this the ancestors of the present house of
Douglas became proprietors of the manor. During
a long series of vears subsequently, however, and
up till the middle of the 18th century, the most
of the parish was owned by a family of the name of
Brown, who were succeeded by marriage, in 1755,
by Mr. Kenneth M'Kenzie. It is worthy of notice
that Major Learmont, one of the pious and devoted
soldiers of the covenant, possessed the property of
Newholm, in the parish of Dolphinton, and was an
elder in the congregation. After the battle ol
Pentland Hills — in which he commanded the horse,
and only escaped after feats of the most desperate
valour — his property was forfeited; but it was
bought back by his relative, the laird of Wishaw,
for behoof of his family. Notwithstanding that
Learmont was one of those who were " hunted like
partridges upon the hills," it was his lot eventually
to escape his enemies, and he died peacefully in his
88th year in 1693. His remains rest in Dolphinton
churchyard.
DOLPHISTON, a hamlet in the parish of Oxnam,
Roxburghshire. It stands near the right bank of
the Jed, 4J miles south-south-east of Jedburgh.
Here is an ancient tower, said to have been built by
one Dolphus, from whom it took its name. The
walls are from 8 to 10 feet thick, built of hewn
stone, and so closely cemented with lime that it is
found more difficult to obtain stones from it for
building than from a quarry. It has been exten-
sive, and divided into small apartments by stone
partitions. Several vaulted apertures are in the
middle of the walls, large enough for a small bed,
and some of them so long as to be used by the ten-
ants for holding their ladders. On a rising ground,
a little to the south, there is an area of a chain
square, which is said to have been a watch-tower
or lighthouse, and seems to imply that Dolphiston
tower had been used as a fort or place of refuge.
DON (The), a river of Aberdeenshire. It forms
a sort of twin-stream to the Dee, and is next to
that river in Aberdeenshire as regards at once
basin, note, and magnitude, and resembles it also
in possessing much volume, and much fine scenery,
with very little commercial importance; yet differs
essentially from it in some great characters, and
even presents some striking contrasts. It rises on
the skirts of Ben Avon, 6 miles west of Curgarff,
amongst the mountains which bound Aberdeen-
shire on the south-west, at the head of Strath-Don,
and which divide it from the head of Strath-Deveron
in Banffshire. Its source is considerably lower
than that of the Dee: the altitude is 1,640 feet
above sea-level. A great part of its ran, though
somewhat parallel to the Dee, and at no great dis-
tance from it, is through districts much less moun-
tainous, and abounding far more in plains and
expanded meadows; so that, instead of the impet-
uosity and the fitfulness of the Dee, it displays a
prevailing current of gentleness, calmness, and
regularity. Running eastward in a very sinuous
career, through the whole breadth of the county, it
flows into the German ocean on the north side of
Aberdeen. Its whole length of course is about 62
miles; though, in a direct line from its source to its
termination, the distance is only 41 miles.
In its earliest stretches through the parish of
Strathdon, which it divides into two nearly equal
parts, it is joined on both sides by 7 or 8 bums, se-
parated from each other by considerable hills, and
most of them running through deep hallows and
glens. The principal are the Eman and the Noch-
tie. All these burns abound with excellent trout ;
and salmon is even here very frequently found in
the Don, at least towards the lower end of this par-
ish. Turning northward, and dividing for a short
distance the parish of Glenbucket from part of Mig-
vie, it receives from the latter the Deskry, and from
the former the Bucket. Then again flowing east-
ward, it passes through the parish of Towie ; and
winding northward, reinforced by other tributaries,
round Gorieshill, it at once becomes remarkably en-
larged near Westside ; after which it resumes its
eastern route, dividing various parishes, particular-
ly Forbes and Alford, from the latter of which, on
the south, it derives the waters of the Loehel, the
most considerable tributary it has yet received. In
passing hitherto through the high parts of the dis-
trict of Alford, the Don flows through a narrow gul-
let amongst the western mountains, while its banks
are now partly wooded. Perpetually changing its
course to the north and even the west, to the east
and then through Monymusk parish to the south,
the next considerable tributary which there en-
larges it is the Ton burn from the south ; when im-
mediately it turns to the north again between Kem-
nay and part of Chapel-Garioch parishes, and arrives
at a point a little to the south of the royal burgh of
Inverury, where, on its northern bank, stands the
building formerly occupied as the Roman Catholic
college of Aquhorties. This point is about 16 miles
from the mouth of the river, and its vicinity consti-
tutes, perhaps, the most interesting as well as im-
portant part of its whole course. Here, at the Bass,
a conical mount of considerable elevation standing
in the midst of the confluence, it is joined by its
principal tributary, the river Urie, from the district
of Strathbogie.
The Don, here very much increased by the water
of the Urie, notwithstanding the previous diversion
of a large portion of its waters into the Inverury
canal, flows southward from the Bass, between the
parish and the low lands of Kintore on the south,
and the mountainous part of Keithhall with Kinkell
on the north. It divides, for a short distance, into
two branches, which reunite, enclosing a river-island
to the north of the royal burgh of Kintore. Be-
tween Fintray and Dyce it is bordered by mountains
on both sides, with valuable plantations on the
northern or Fintray side. It then runs southward,
still dividing the parishes on its line, to Old Mnchar
parish in the freedom of the city of Aberdeen, whence
it turns to the east, by the city or old town, to its
confluence with the sea, little more than a mile to
the northward of the Dee, where it forms a kind of
harbour, into which small craft may enter in safety,
but where no trade of any importance can be carried
on. " About a century ago," says Mr. Kennedy in
his ' Annals of Aberdeen,' " the channel of the Don
near the town was altered, and the stream diverted
straight into the sea about a mile further northward
than its ancient efflux." In a note, he adds, " Pro-
bably at some very remote period, Don had con-
tinued its former course still further southward
down the hollow of the links, till it united with Dee
in the harbour, and both together would form one
stream into the ocean. Such conjecture is in some
measure confirmed by the works of Ptolemy and
Richard of Cirencester, there being no such river as
Don delineated in their maps, or even mentioned in
their tables, while Diva (Dee) and Ituna (Ythan) in
the district of the Taixali, are particularly noticed.
In the earlier records of the burgh, the river Don is
distinguished solely by the name of Aqua Borealis."
As this river runs with considerable rapidity dur-
ing the last 8 miles of its course, and as the rocks
at its mouth confine it to a narrow channel, and
give it there a gloomy aspect, the idea of its flow-
ing rapidly through a rugged and mountainous
country, where no space is left for forming even a
commodious road along its banks, is at first induced ;
but after passing upwards for about a mile beyond
the rocky chasm, where was built the spacious,
stately, and attractive Gothic arch, constituting the
celebrated Brig o' Balgownie, and up to whose lo-
cality alone the Don is navigable even for small
craft, the hiDs recede so far from the river as to
form spacious haughs or level valleys on either side,
through which it winds in a slow majestic course.
Nor is the prospect here uniform, but agreeably di-
versified. The hills above Inverury approach close
to the river, which seems to have forced its way
with difficulty through them ; but all at once it
opens into another spacious plain, from which the
hills recede on either hand to a great distance, and
then close again ; and, after another temporary con-
finement among rocks and hills and woods, the river
once more waters another plain of great extent.
Such is the general character of the Don, — nowhere
rapid, but in general flowing through level fields so
little elevated above its usual surface, that, when
violent rain falls, it bursts its bounds at once, and
covers a great extent of country, which then appears
to be an immense body of water interspersed with
islands, houses, trees, and other rural objects. Too
often on these occasions it commits extensive and
calamitous depredations, — sweeping off whole fields
of com, and leaving nothing behind but want and
desolation. The havoc it occasioned in August,
1829, mil not be soon forgotten. Yet still its vales
are so fertile, and the crops they yield so early and
so excellent, that the husbandman is again and
again tempted to risk his all on these precarious
fields.
" The first great flood on record," wrote the new
statist of the parish of Fintray in 1840, " happened
in the year 1768, which carried away the greater
part of the crop from the haughs and level lands, at
the period between reaping and stacking. A simi-
lar inundation took place in August, 1799, which
carried off considerable quantities of hay, and de-
stroyed in a great measure the grain crop, the whole
2 B
DONAN.
386
DOON.
of which stood at that time on the ground uncut. A
similar, but still higher flood, happened on 4th Au-
gust, 1829, when the river rose about 14 feet above
its ordinary level, and nearly 18 inches higher than
any flood of that river in the memory of the oldest
person alive, and extending (where the river was
not confined by elevated lands or embankments) to
from a half to three-fourths of a mile in breadth.
This extraordinary flood occasioned very serious
losses to many individuals, — and had it not been for
strong embankments, which had been erected a few
years before, (some of which withstood, while others
yielded to the impetuosity of the torrent,) the whole
crop on the most valuable lands in the parish must
have been completely destroyed. A great part of
the haugh-land is now protected by embankment
on the lands of Fintray and Wester Fintray, ex-
tending to upwards of 6,000 ells in length, and pro-
tecting from 200 to 300 Scotch acres of very fine
rich land, from the river floods." Similar em-
bankments have been made for the protection of the
haugh-lands in most other parts of the river's course.
The Don has some valuable salmon -fishings,
though by no means so valuable as those of the Dee.
A statement of the actual quantity caught in either
river, apart from the produce of the sea in this vici-
nity, cannot however be given, as the Don fishings
are held by individuals who have also other fishings,
and are without any particular motive for distin-
guishing the portion contributed by each. The
fishing of a small space of the Don's banks, how-
ever, not more than 300 or 400 yards in length, was
not long ago rented at £2,000. The coast of Don
river is fished by cruives, hang-nets, net and coble,
stake-nets, and bag-nets. The average produce of
the salmon and grilse fisheries on this river, for
seven years previous to 1828, was 299 barrels; but
the average for the seven subsequent years rose to
419 ban-els. Between the years 1790 and 1800 the
yearly average number of salmon and grilse, caught
in the Don, amounted to 43,240 ; while 36,240 was
the average number caught in the Dee during the
same period. But between 1813 and 1824, while
the average number of fish caught in the Don was
40,677, the average of the Dee fishings was 51,862.
DON (Loch). See Mull.
DONAN, a small island at the head of Loch-
Alsh, where that sea-lake forks into Lochs Long
and Durich, at the south-west corner of Ross-shire.
DONAN (Castle). See Castle-Donan.
DONIBRISTLE. See Dalgety.
DOON (The), a river which traverses Ayrshire,
and, during the whole of its course in that county,
forms the boundary-line between the districts of
Carrick and Kyle. It is popularly said to originate
in Loch Doon ; but it really rises in two mountain-
streams from which that lake receives its principal
surplus waters. One of these streams, called Gal-
low-lane, wells up among the broad boundary moun-
tain-ridge of Kirkcudbrightshire, within half-a-mile
of the remote source of the Galloway Dee ; the
other, called Eagton-lane, issues from Loch Enoch,
at the boundary between Kirkcudbrightshire and
Ayrshire; and both pursue a northerly course of
about 7 miles, till, at its southern extremity, they
fall into Loch Doon. At the northern extremity,
whence the united streams now called the Doon
emerge, two tunnels, cut out of the solid rock, re-
ceive the river, and pour it impetuously down into a
deep gorge 300 feet deep, only about 30 feet wide,
and a mile in length. For 2 miles from the loch,
the river flows due north ; and it then bends gra-
dually round, and, for about 7 miles, flows to the
north-west. Over all this distance, with the excep-
tion of the fine vale of Dalmellington on its north-
em bank, the grounds which press upon its verge
are, for the most part, heathy or unwooded knolls
and hills of uninviting aspect. About 2 miles be
low Patna it again bends, and, over a distance of 5
miles, flows westward; and then, a little below
Cassilis house, it flows northward and to the north
of west, till it falls, 3 miles south of Ayr, into the
frith of Clyde. But, over its whole course from be-
low Patna to its embouchure, it describes numerous
curvatures, sinuously wending round many a sylvan
knoll, and rioting at will among the beauties of a
delly and undulating landscape. Here its channel
is, for the most part, ploughed into a huge furrow
from 10 to 200 feet deep, and, at the top, from 30 to
150 yards wide, the sides of which are richly clothed
in natural wood and plantation. Such especially is
its appearance both above and below the point
where the river is spanned by ' the Auld Brig o'
Doon,' and flows past ' the haunted kirk of Alloway,'
and over all the space which was most familiar to
the eye of the Ayrshire bard.
DOON (Loch), a lake partly in Ayrshire, and
partly on the boundary between that county and
Kirkcudbrightshire. It discharges its waters by
the river Doon, whose ' banks and braes' have been
rendered classic by the poetic pen of our Scottish
bard ; and near the margin of which his country-
men have reared a monument to his memory worthy
of one of Scotland's greatest sons. Loch Doon is
about 8 miles in length,' and from half-a-mile to
three quarters in breadth. Its form is nearly that of
the letter L ; the head of the lake corresponding
with the top of the letter, and its lower extremity
— where it discharges its waters — with the end of
the horizontal line at the bottom. The shores o '
this lake are wild and solitary, and almost entirely
devoted to sheep-pasture. The mountains which
enclose it are in many places of considerable height,
especially at the top of the lake where they may be
said to be lofty, and where their outline is varied
and beautiful. These are the Star mountains, on
the borders of the stewartry of Kirkcudbright, and
from the base of which on this side, the Doon may
be said to take its rise ; while the Dee, which flows
into the Solway frith, takes its rise on the opposite
side.
The level of the waters of this lake has been con-
siderably lowered from what it formerly was by the
operations of the proprietors, and a portion of its
bed laid dry. This — as in the case of Loch Leven
in Kinross-shire — has lessened unquestionably the
beauty of the scenery, by the exposure of tracts of
barren sand and gravel, formerly covered with wa-
ter ; and — like the operations in Kinross-shire — has
afforded no very useful result, so far as the ground
on the shores of the lake is concerned. But, un-
like those of Loch Leven, the operations on Loch
Doon were not for the purpose of receiving ground ;
they had a more useful object in view, and have
been attended with more beneficial results. Along
the banks of the river Doon there are some very
extensive tracts of meadow-ground, which were,
after heavy rains, liable to be overflowed by the ac-
cumulated waters from the lake. By perforating a
bed of rook over which the lake used to discharge
itself, and forming tunnels, the usual level of its
waters has been lowered ; and, by erecting sluices,
the proprietors are enabled to regulate the quantity
of water which flows into the river, and thus to pre-
vent the damage to the grounds upon its banks
which used formerly to occur. These operations
were executed by the Earl of Cassillis, and the late
Mr. M'Adam of Craigengillan,the proprietors of the
lands on either side of the lake.
On a small island at the head of Loch Doon are
the ruins of an ancient castle. It is constructed of
large square stones, and appears to have been a
DORARY.
387
DORNOCH.
lofty tower of an octangular form. Of the history
of this structure, or its origin, we have not heen
able to obtain any satisfactory account. Tho is-
land, however, which is nearest to the Carrick
side of the lake, now belongs to the Marquis of
Ailsa. In the early part of the 13th century, the
lands of Straiten — which are bounded by a part of
the lake — were held by John de Carrick, a son of
Duncan, Earl of Carrick. This baron was engaged,
in 1235, in a rebellion of the Galloway-men, and
committed injuries on several churches within the
diocese of Glasgow, which subsequently cost him
a grant of part of bis lands, and the patronage of
the church of Straiten. But whether he or his suc-
cessors had any connection with the castle on the
island, we have been unable to ascertain. In 1823,
several boats or canoes of great antiquity were
found sunk in the lake near this island. They were
all formed entirely from a single oak-tree hollowed
out; and were shaped somewhat like a fishing-cob-
ble. Three of them were raised, and two of them
were afterwards sunk for preservation in a pool of
water, a short way from the margin of the lake.
One measured 20 feet in length, by 3 feet 3 inches
broad; another 16J feet, by 2 feet 16 inches; the
third 22 feet, by 3 feet 10 inches. They are sup-
posed to have lain in the water between 800 and 000
years. These having been found near the castle,
would lead us to suppose that they had been in some
way connected with it; but their construction is
certainly to be attributed to an earlier people than
those by whom the castle was built.
After leaving the lake, the water of Doon flows
for about a mile through a narrow gulley or ravine,
the scenery of which is very remarkable. A lofty
ridge of hills seems here to have been rent asunder
to afford an exit to the waters of the lake ; and the
rocky walls, which enclose this singular hollow, yet
exhibit marks on either side of their former proxi-
mity. A walk has been constructed along the edge
of the river, throughout the whole length of this
ravine, by which an easy opportunity is given to
strangers of viewing its romantic and picturesque
scenery. On either hand, the rocks rise to a great
height, almost perpendicular, but rugged and broken,
and having their sides and their summits magnifi-
cently festooned and ornamented with a great va-
riety of copse and trees. The scenery is all of a
close character, but varied and interesting, chang-
ing with every turn of the walk ; now presenting a
rude vista of rock and wood, and again a mural pre-
cipice which seems to bar farther progress ; while
the effect of the whole is heightened by the music
of the river rushing along its broken channel, and
the winds among the branches of the trees, which,
" in the leafy month of June," almost exclude a
sight of tire sky.
DOON-HILL. SeeSporr.
DOONHOLM. See Atk.
DOONSIDE. See Matbole.
DORARY, an isolated pendicle of Caithness-
shire, a piece of hilly ground, encompassed by
Sutherlandshire. It belongs to the parish of Thurso,
although not within 4 miles of the main body of that
parish. It is a part of the bishop's lands, and was a
dueling belonging to the bishops of Caithness. The
walls of the old chapel, called Gavin's Kirk, or
Temple-Gavin, are still standing. The view from
the summit is very grand and extensive.
DORBACK (The). See Djvie (The).
DOREHOLM, one of the Shetland islands; con-
tstituting part of the parish of Northmaven. It is
situated in a spacious bay to the southward; and
derives its name from a remarkable arch which
passes through its centre, which is so lofty and
capacious as to admit the boatmen to fish under it,
and is lighted by an opening at the top.
DORES, a parish, containing a post-office vil-
lage of its own name, in Inverness-shire ; bounded
on the north-west side by Loch Ness, and on other
Bides by the parishes of Inverness, Daviot, and
Boleskine. Its length is about 20 miles; and its
breadth is 3 or 4. A small isolated district is sur-
rounded by Boleskine. The surface of the main body
comprises the narrow strip of valley ground along
Loch Ness, and the acclivity of mountains rising
steeply up to the water-shed of the great glen, to-
gether with part of Stratherrick and the small vale
of the Farigag. The soil is light. The proportion
of arable land is very small, by far the greater part
being fit only for sheep -pasture. Besides Loch
Ness, which with its environs furnishes a beautiful
landscape, there are two or three smaller lakes which
abound with trout. Tho chief mansions are Aldourie,
Eregie, and Gortleg. The landowners are Lord
Lovat, Lord Salton, and five others. The real rental
is about £5,860. Assessed preperty in 1860, £6.314
odds. At a distance of 3 miles from Loch Ness
are the vestiges of a fort called Dun-Richuan, or
' the Castle of the King of the Ocean,' a name which
it is supposed to have received at a period when the
king of Norway and Denmark was master of the sea.
A little to the east of this fort there are several
cairns, and one almost equal in size to all the rest.
Tradition says that Fingal here engaged in battle
Ashi, the son of the king of Norway, and killed
him, which gave the name of Dram-Ashi, or ' Ashi's
bill,' to the scene where this event happened. About
9 miles distant, there is another fort called Dun-
Dardell, which is said to have been one of the many
forts in the great valley, extending from the Ger-
man ocean at Inverness to the Atlantic at Fort-
William, that were intended for making signals, by
fire, of the enemy's approach, during the times of
the Danish and Norwegian incursions. The rocky
ground under this fort is particularly grand. The
village of Dores stands 8 miles south-west of Inver-
ness, on the south road thence to Fort-Augustus.
Population of the parish in 1831, 1,736; in 1861,
1,506. Houses, 304.
This parish is in the presbytery of Inverness, and
synod of Moray. Patron, the Earl of Cawdor.
Stipend, £141 2s. 8d. ; glebe, £8 3s. 4d. Unappro-
priated teinds, £18 17s. 9d. Schoolmaster's salary,
£45, with from £12 to £15 fees, and £15 other emol-
uments. The parish church was built in 1828, and
contains 500 sittings. There is a preaching-station
at Torness in Stratherrick. There is a Free church
for Dores and Bona: receipts in 1865, £180 is. 6d.
There are in the parish an Assembly's school, a
F. church school, and a Gaelic school. Sir James
Macintosh was a native of this parish.
DORES (Castle of). See Kettiks.
DORNAL (Locn), a small sheet of fresh water,
on the mutual boundary of Ayrshire and Wigton-
sbire, 3A miles west of the Bridge of Cree.
DORNIE. See Bukdalloch.
DORNOCH, a parish, containing the royal burgh
of Dornoch, the post-office village of Clashmore,
and the fishing-village of Embo, in the south-east
comer of Sutherlandshire. ''This place," says the
Old Statistical Account, " derives its name from the
Gaelic words Dorv-JEich, which signifies ' a horse's
foot or hoof ; ' concerning which the current tradition
is as follows. About the year 1259, the Danes and
Norwegians, having made a descent on this coast,
were attacked by "William, Thane or Earl of Suther-
land, a quarter of a mile to the eastward of this town.
Here the Danish general was slain, and his army
beaten, and forced to retire to their ships which
DORNOCH.
388
DORNOCH.
were not far distant. The Thane greatly signalized
himself upon this occasion ; and appears, by his per-
sonal valour and exertion, to have contributed very
much to determine the fate of the day. While he
singled out the Danish general, and gallantly fought
his way onward, the Thane being by some accident
disarmed, seized the leg of a horse which lay on the
ground, and with that despatched his adversary. In
honour of this exploit, and of the weapon with which
it was achieved, this place received the name of
Dorneich, or Dornoch, as it is now called. This tra-
dition is countenanced by the horse-shoe, which is
still retained in the arms of the burgh. In memory
of the same event, a stone pillar was erected on the
spot, supporting at the top a cross encompassed by
a circle, which went under the name of the Earl's
cross. Standing on a sandy hillock, it was gradually
undermined by the winds; several years ago it
tumbled down, and was broken to pieces; at pre-
sent, only scattered fragments of it remain." This
cross has been repaired and re-erected.
The parish extends 9 miles along the frith of Dor-
noch, and about 15 miles from north-west to south-
east. It is bounded on the north by Kogart, and by
the Loch of Fleet, which separates it from Golspie ;
on the south-east and south by the Dornoch frith ;
and on the west by Criech. But the district of
Kainauld and Rhimusaig is isolated from the rest of
the parish by the Fleet, and surrounded by the par-
ishes of Golspie and Rogart. The shores are flat
and sandy ; but the surface gradually rises as it ap-
proaches the hilly districts towards the north and
west. The soil is sandy, approaching to loam as it
recedes from the coast. The small river Evelicks,
which rises in Strath-Achvaich, and falls into the
frith near the Meikle-ferry, after a course of 9 miles,
affords a few salmon and trout. In the hilly dis-
trict there are three or four small lakes, the largest
of which is about a mile in length. There are sev-
eral quarries of whinstone, and one of excellent
freestone near the town of Dornoch. Upon an
eminence, rising abruptly from the sea, near the Lit-
tle Ferry, stand the picturesque ruins of the castle
of Skibo, formerly a seat of the noble family of
Sutherland. Not far from the Earl's cross, already
mentioned, is the spot where an unhappy creature
was burned in 1722, for the imaginary crime of
witchcraft, in transforming her daughter into a pony,
and getting her shod by the Devil ! This was the
last instance of these frantic executions in the north
of Scotland ; as that, in the south, was at Paisley,
in 1697. The castle of Skibo, where the famous
Marquis of Montrose was temporarily confined after
his capture in Assynt, and which was a residence
of the bishops of Caithness and Sutherland, was de-
molished in last century. The landowners are the
Duke of Sutherland, Dempster of Skibo, and two
others. The parish is traversed by the great road
from Inverness to Wick, Population in 1831, 3,380 ;
in 1861, 2,885. Houses 584. Assessed property in
1843, £3,336 6s. 6d.; in 1860, £5,583.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dornoch, and
synod of Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, the
Dnke of Sutherland. Stipend, £266 15s. 4d.; glebe,
£10. Schoolmaster's salary now is £60, with about
£6 fees. The parish church is the restored old
cathedral of Dornoch, and contains about 1,000 sit-
tings. There is a Free church: attendance, 1,150 ;
sum raised in 1865, £276 Is. 8d. There are a
ladies' seminary, endowed by Lady Glenorchy, a
young ladies' school, an Assembly school, and four
other schools.
The Town of Dornoch, a post town, a royal
burgh, the political capital of Sutherlandshire, and
formerly the episcopal seat or cathedral town of the
bishops of Caithness and Sutherland, and therefore
one of the cities of Scotland, stands on the north
coast of the Dornoch frith, 1 mile east of the great
north road, 6 miles by water north of Tain, 12 miles
by water west of Tarbetness, 12 south-south-west
of Golspie, and 201 north-north-west of Edinburgh.
" Its streets and houses," says Andersons' Guide to
the Highlands, " have a comfortable substantial
aspect, as being built of a cheerful yellow freestone,
and all supplied with ample garden ground. The.
town is situated immediately in front of a high
gravel terrace on a light sandy soil, amid arid hil-
locks of sand, piled up by the sea and the winds,
and prevented from drifting only by the bent grass
which grows upon them. The whole locality is evi
dently an ancient sea-bottom ; and though healthy,
the place is exposed to every bitter blast which
blows in this cold climate. In approaching Dor-
noch, the low but old-looking tower of the cathedral
and the bishop's turreted castle give it a pleasing
and venerable appearance. The streets are re-
markably clean, and, unlike what we see in most old
towns, they are wide and regularly formed. Al-
though situated at the entrance of the frith which
is an arm of the German ocean, Dornoch has, in
these latter times at least, been little benefited by its
proximity to the sea, — a bar of sand which stretches
across the mouth of the frith, called the Geyzen
Briggs, rendering the navigation intricate, particu-
larly to vessels of large burden."
The castle or palace of Dornoch, the residence of
the bishops of Caithness and Sutherland, was origi-
nally a large, massive, sumptuous edifice. In 1570,
it was burnt to the ground by a strong body of ma-
rauders ; and thence till 1813, it stood a ghastly
ruin, when it was extensively repaired, and part of it
fitted up as the county court-house and gaol. But
latterly the whole of it has been removed, excepting
its high picturesque western tower ; and on the site
of the removed parts has been erected a spacious
handsome pile, containing court-house, prison,
record -room, and county meeting - room. — The
cathedral was built in the 13th century, by the
bishop Gilbert de Moravia or Moray, the near kins-
man of the cotemporaneous founder of the minster
of Elgin. It has survived to our own times through
many struggles, having been once burnt, about the
same time as the castle, often otherwise damaged,
and repeatedly restored or repaired ; and about 18
years ago, at the cost of £6,000, defrayed by tho
Duchess- Countess of Sutherland, it was remodelled
on a grand scale, intended to preserve all its old
beauties and to add some new ones, but unhappily
in a taste which has not escaped the censure of
architectural critics. It now consists of chancel,
nave, transepts, and central tower, with some in-
judicious new additions in the form of porches and
sacristy. The nave is without aisles, but probably
it originally had them. " The east window is a
triplet, and there is a single lancet in the gable.
Each side of the chancel has three lancets. The
north transept has a small triplet to the north, and
two separate lancets east and west. The south
transept is the same. The nave has four lancets on
each side, and at the west end one of those intersect-
ing, unfoliated, middle - pointed windows of four
(should be five) lights, so common in this part.
The tower is short and thick, resting on arches of
two first-pointed order, and crowned with a stunted
spire." Sixteen Earls of Sutherland are said to lie
buried in the south transept. But at the recent
restoration of the pile, the whole chancel was formed
into a new tomb for the Sutherland family, and the
top of it railed in as their pew ; and the site of the
altar was appropriated to a large full-length statue
DORNOCH.
389
DOItNOCH FRITH.
of the late Duke by Chantrey, with a great tablet
behind recording the lineage and virtues of the
Duchess- Countess.
Dornoch is a place of exceedingly little trade.
Even the business belonging to it as the county-
town occasions scarcely any stir. Fairs are held on
the first Wednesday of February, on the third
Wednesday of March, on the first Wednesday of
November, and on the first Wednesday of Decem-
ber; but they are not now of so much consequence
as formerly. The town has an office of the Cale-
donian Bank, offices of four insurance companies, a
gas company, a subscription library, and a friendly
society. It has also a good hotel, called the Suther-
land Arms. Its links form a fine golfing-ground, of
similar character to those of St. Andrews and Mon-
trose.
By charter of Charles II., dated July 14th, 1G28,
Dornoch was erected into a royal burgh, with the
ordinary privileges, but with a reservation in favour
of the Earl of Sutherland's hereditary rights. The
town-clerk reports that " the family of Sutherland
have, and especially of late have claimed, as inter-
jected superiors, a right to certain feus within what
is termed the royalty of the burgh of Dornoch; but
the declarant has no access to know on what written
title this right is founded ; and it consists with his
knowledge that there are various tenements within
the burgh which still hold by written titles, in bur-
gage of and under the magistrates as superiors, and
infeft by hasp and staple." The burgh is governed
by a provost, who is the Duke of Sutherland, 2 bail-
ies, a dean-of-guild, a treasurer, and 6 councillors.
Along with Tain, Dingwall, Wick, Cromarty, and
Kirkwall, it unites in sending a member to parlia-
ment. Its parliamentary constituency in 1865, was
24. The property of the burgh consists of the links
In the neighbourhood, which, for the year 1832-3,
were let by public roup for the sum of £2 Is. A
right to a salmon -fishing appears also to have been
claimed, but never to have been rendered effectual.
The rest of the annual income, which altogether
amounts to only about £3 15s., is derived from
custom and market-dues. Small, however, as the
revenue is, no debts are owing, and no taxes or
assessment are imposed. A claim is made for a
very extensive and apparently undefined royalty,
greatly exceeding the parliamentary boundaries ;
but the territory over which jurisdiction has been
exercised is understood to be limited to what may be
called the burgh proper. The magistrates appoint
the town-officers, but not the gaol-officers. The
salaries of the several officers of both classes amount
in toto to £75 3s. 4d.; and they are paid out of
the common good, as far as it will go ; but, it being
inadequate, the difference has for many years been
made up by the Duke of Sutherland. The burgh
has no church or school patronage. There being
no privilege attached to burgess ship, there are no
burgesses. Population in 1831, 50-4; in 1861, 647.
Houses, 134.
Dornoch, as already mentioned, was the seat of
the bishops of Caithness and Sutherland. The pre-
cise time of the erection of the see is not ascertained.
Andrew, bishop of Caithness, is witness to a dona-
tion by David I. to the monastery of Dunfermline.
He was bishop here in 1150, and is probably the first
of whom there is any authentic account. In 1222
Gilbert Moray was consecrated bishop here. While
yet a young man, and a canon of the church of
Moray, he greatly distinguished himself in behalf of
the independence of the Scottish church. Attempts
had been made to bring the clergy of that church
under the jurisdiction of the Archbishop of York.
The project was not only patronized by the King of
England, but favoured by the I'ope's legate, who
held a convention on the subject at Northampton,
in presence of the Kings of England and Scotland,
in 1176. Moray was one of the inferior clergy, who
attended the Scottish bishops cited by the legate on
this occasion. After the legate had addressed a
speech to the convention, warmly recommending tho
measure in contemplation, a long silence ensued, —
the bishops of Scotland being intimidated by the le-
gate's presence and authority. At length, Moray
arose, and asserted the independence of his church,
in terms of such manly determination and vigorous
eloquence as at once revived the courage of his as-
sociates, and extorted the applause of his adversa-
ries; whereupon the legate, apprehending that he
had spoken the prevailing sentiments of his coun-
try, broke up the assembly. The young orator was,
on his return home, universally caressed, and after-
wards promoted to the see of Caithness. He died
at Scrabster, in Caithness — where the bishops had
also a residence — in 1245. A statue of him is still
shown in the church here, under the name of St.
Gilbert ; but it is not entire. The last bishop, An-
drew Wood, was translated here from the Isles, in
1680, and remained till the Revolution.
Some writers tell us, that Dornoch was also the
seat of one of the monasteries of the Trinity, or lied
Friars, otherwise called Mathurines, — from their
house at Paris dedicated to St. Mathurine. The
great professed object of the institution of this order
appears to have been the redemption of Christian
captives; to which purpose a third part of their re-
venue is said to have been destined. " Tertio vero
pars," says their constitution, "reservetur ad re-
demptionem captivoram, qui sunt incarcerati, pro
fide Christi, a Paganis." Of 13 of these monasteries,
which are said to have subsisted in Scotland at the
Reformation, one was at Dornoch, founded in 1271
by Sir Patrick Mora}'. Not the smallest vestige of
the building, however, can now be traced ; the very
site of it is unknown at this day. The lands belong-
ing to the ministry of Berwick were given to this
place, after that city had fallen into the hands of the
English.
About the year 1570, George, Earl of Caith-
ness, who claimed the wardship of Alexander,
Earl of Sutherland, then a minor, had got the per-
son of the latter into his possession. A tribe of
Morays, inhabiting this part of the country, who
were firmly attached to the noble family of Suther-
land, and beheld the conduct of Caithness with a
jealous eye, contrived to get the minor conveyed
from Caithness, and put under the protection of the
Earl of Huntly. Caithness in revenge invaded this
country, by his son John, who invested the town
and castle of Dornoch, of which the Morays had
possessed themselves. Several skirmishes took place
with various success. The Morays, no longer able
to maintain the ground they had occupied, retired
to the castle. Upon this the master of Caithness
burnt the town and cathedral ; but the besieged de-
fended themselves in the castle for a month longer.
At length, however, they were obliged to capitulate,
having undertaken to depart out of Sutherland within
two months, and delivered three hostages into the
hands of the conquerors. The Morays fulfilled their
engagement; yet the hostages were treacherously
murdered.
_ DORNOCH FRITH (The), the estuary of the
river Oikell, separating Sutherlandshire from Ross-
shire, and expanding into an arm of the North Sea
It commences at Bonar-Bridge, extends thence 10
miles east-south-eastward, with a maximum width of
13 mile to a contraction called the Meikle-ferry, and
then suddenly expands, goes off toward the north-
DORNOCK.
390
DOUGLAS.
east, and becomes identified with the North Sea,
between Tarbetness and Dunrobin castle, at the
distance of 13 miles from Meikle-feriy, with a ter-
minating width of about 12 miles. Dornoch, which
gives name to it, stands on its north coast, about 3
miles below Meikle-ferry; and Tain, which also
sometimes gives name to it, stands on its south
coast nearly opposite Domoeh. An expansion, im-
mediately above Meikle-ferry, and below another
contraction called Little-ferry, forms an excellent
road- stead where vessels of considerable burden can
lie at anchor, and where good harbour accommoda-
tion could easily be provided, but which is rendered
comparatively valueless by the difficulties of enter-
ing it across a bar. The north side of the frith be-
low Meikle-ferry, too, offers some harbourage for
small vessels in calm weather; but a formidable
bar extends from this coast almost to the south
side of the frith, called, from the incessant noise,
the Geyzen Briggs. The banks, forming this bar,
however, are not so closely connected but that ves-
sels may enter with safety under the direction of a
pilot. The shores produce shell-fish, and the banks
abound with cod and haddocks ; but no vigorous
exertion has been made to render these fisheries an
object of importance.
DOENOCK, a parish, containing the villages of
Dornock and Lowtherton, on the southern border of
Annandale, Dumfries-shire. Its post-town is An-
nan. A small part of it, in the form of a pentagon,
and containing an area of about a square mile, is
detached from the main body, and lies about § a
mile to the north, bounded on the west by Annan,
and on the other three sides by Kirkpatrick-Fleming.
The main body, which also is pentagonal, is bounded
on the north-east by Kirkpatrick-Fleming ; on the
east by Gretna ; on the south by the Solway frith ;
and on the west and north-west by Annan. The
extreme length of the parish, including both parts,
but not the intermediate space, is 4 miles, its ex-
treme breadth 2 J miles; and its area 3,880 acres.
Nearly the whole surface is cultivated, and well-en-
closed. The soil, in general, is loam on brick earth ;
and, though rather damp in winter, is productive of
luxuriant crops. Neither coal nor limestone has
been found; but freestone is plentiful. A brook
rises in Robgillmoss, a small bog in the northern or
detached part, and traverses the main body through
nearly its centre. Perennial springs of the purest
water abound. Kirtle water washes the north-east
boundary, and contains a few trouts, eels, pike, and
perch. The coast is about 2^ miles in extent, and
is low and sandy. The Solway frith is here 2 miles
wide, and fordable during the recess of the tide.
Fearful accidents, however, are liable to assail any
passenger not intimately acquainted with the pecu-
liarities of the path. Great quantities of salmon,
grilse, and flounders, are caught, chiefly by means
of trap-stake-nets, and sent off to the market of
Carlisle. As to antiquities, there are remains of a
Roman military road, a druidical temple, and a
strong square tower, — the last is on the estate of
the Marquis of Annandale. Various and remarkable
tomb-stones, one or two of considerable antiquity,
are to be seen in tire burying-ground. On what
was anciently a moor in the parish, a battle is tra-
ditionally said to have been fought between the
Scotch and English, the former commanded by Sir
William Brown of Coalston, and the latter by Sir
Marmaduke Langdale and Lord Crosby. The Eng-
lish, it is said, were defeated, and both of their com-
manders slain, and afterwards interred in Dornock
churchyard. Two stones, each 6A feet long, 2 broad,
and raised in the middle like a coffin, mark the place
of the reported interment. On the sides of these
tombs are cut hieroglyphics, like the broad leaves
of plants, and other antique figures quite unintelli-
gible. A spring-well on the spot where the battle
was fought, is still called Sword-well, and probably
acquired the name from some swords of the defeated
having been found in its vicinity. The real rental
of the parish is about £4,630. The yearly value of
raw produce was estimated in 1833 at £11,450.
Assessed property in 1860, £4,728 odds. The parish
is traversed by the road from Dumfries to Carlisle,
and by the Glasgow and South-western railway, and
has a station on the latter. It is skirted also, though
not touched, by the Caledonian railway, and has ready
access to it at the Kirkpatrick station. The village
of Domock stands on the Dumfries and Carlisle
road, 3 miles west of Annan. It is a poor unimpor-
tant place. Population of the village about 240.
Population of the parish in 1831, 752 ; in 1861, 856.
Houses, 169.
This parish, formerly a rectory, is in the presby-
tery of Annan, and synod of Dumfries. Patron,
the Duke of Buccleuch. Stipend, £208 3s. 6d.;
glebe, £25. Schoolmaster's salary, now £40, witli
£30 other emoluments. The church was built in
1793, and contains 300 sittings. There are two pri-
vate schools and a small subscription library. The
name Dornock, Dornoch, or Dumochd, seems to be
of Celtic origin, signifying " the naked water," and
referring in this case to the originally bald shore of
the Solway, though said in the case of Sutherland-
shire to have had another origin.
DORRAL BURN. See Dallas.
DORRINGTON. See Longformacus.
DOSK (New), the Kincardineshire district of the
parish of Edzell. It was formerly a parish by it-
self, and has still a burying-ground of its own. See
Edzell.
DOUBLE-HILL, a hill in the north-east of the
parish of Rescobie, Forfarshire. It rises from the
plain about half a mile north of the lake of Rescobie,
and has two summits, which are called respectively
the hill of Pitscandly and the hill of Turin. The
latter summit, which is the eastern one, commands
a remarkably brilliant prospect, over most of the
eastern half of Forfarshire, together with a great
DOUGLAS (The), a small river of the middle
ward of Lanarkshire. It rises on the east side of
Cairntable, close to the boundary line with Ayrshire,
and runs north-eastward, through the interior of the
parish of Douglas, and along the boundary between
Carmichael and Lesmahago, to a confluence with
the Clyde at a point about 1^ mile above Bonniton
Linn. Its length of run, measured as the crow flies,
is 13 miles, — 10 of which are within the parish of
Douglas. It receives on its left bank the tribute of
Monks, Pedourin, and Peniel waters, and on its
right bank the tribute of Kennox, Glespin, Park-
head, and Craigburn waters. Its basin comprises
nearly all Douglas parish, and a considerable part
of Carmichael and Lesmahago parishes ; and in
consequence of being overhung at the sources by
a conspicuous portion of the great range of water-
shed which catches the rain-clouds coming from
the south and west, it receives such a quantity of
water as to render the volume of the Douglas, at
the point of confluence, very nearly equal to the
volume of the Clyde. The configuration of the
main valley, too, is such as to impart some peculiar-
ity to the climate. " The winds," says the old sta-
tist of the parish of Douglas, " blow mostly from the
south-west, which being the direction of the river,
and the banks high on each side, what would be ac-
counted a moderate breeze in other places is here
often a kind of hurricane." " The district," says
DOUGLAS.
391
DOUGLAS.
the new statist, " is exposed to high winds, parti-
cularly from the south-west and west, which, being
confined as in a funnel by the high grounds on each
side, sweep down the strath with tremendous vio-
lence."
DOUGLAS, a parish, containing the post-town of
Douglas and the villages of Rigside and Addington,
in the middle ward of Lanarkshire. It is bounded
on the west by Ayrshire, and on other sides by the
parishes of Lcsmahago, Carmichael, Wiston, and
Crawfordjohn. Its length north-eastward is up-
wards of 12 miles; its breadth varies from 4 to 7
miles ; and its area, according to the New Statistical
Account, is about 28,004 Scotch acres, — of which
3,816 are arable, 22,376 are in pasture, 1,492 are
under wood, and 320 are flow-moss. " Although
this district," says the writer of the New Statistical
Account, "cannot vie with the clothed luxuriance
of some of our lowland districts, or with the bold
and rugged grandeur of our Highland scenery, it
presents, along the whole course of the river Dou-
glas," see the preceding article, " an aspect of sweet
and unpretending beauty which contrasts most fa-
vourably with the bleakness of the country through
which it is approached on every side. The river
flows through a strath, which widens gradually in
its course towards the Clyde. From this strath the
ground slopes on each side to a considerable eleva-
tion, adorned, especially on the north side, with ex-
tensive and beautiful plantations. Around Douglas
Castle, there is some fine old wood, chiefly ash and
plane trees ; and plantations of more recent growth,
and of great breadth, extend for several miles above
and below. At Douglasmill, where the strath opens
into wide and fertile holms, nearly surrounded with
finely wooded banks, the scenery is particularly ad-
mired. Beyond the strath, on either side, the ground
stretches into extensive moors, or swells into hills
covered with grass to their summits. On the west
it terminates in Cairntable, which, with its depen-
dent range to the south, encloses it as with a chain
of mountain ramparts. A great extent of ground
has been recently planted by Lord Douglas ; and as
His Lordship is carrying on these plantations on a
large seale, the aspect of the parish will be pro-
gressively improving for many years." The parish
is rich in minerals. Coal is so abundant that, though
extensively worked, it will not be exhausted for
centuries. Much of it is sold out of the parish to a
considerable distance. Limestone and sandstone
are quarried. Ironstone occurs ; and there are sev-
eral pretty strong chalybeate springs. About nine-
tenths of the parish belonged formerly to Lord
Douglas, and belong now to the Countess of Home.
Assessed property in 1860, £12,836. A branch rail-
way to Douglas, from the Caledonian at Cleghorn-
Road, was opened in 1864. Population in 1831,
2,542 ; in 1861, 2,490. Houses, 419.
The most notable object in the parish is Douglas
castle, the noble seat of the Countess of Home. It
was built by the last Duke of Douglas, shortly after
the conflagration of the former castle, in 1760.
At the time of His Lordship's death only one wing
had been completed; but even in this state the
building is a stately one, and has a noble appear-
ance. Independently of the intense historical inter-
est which must ever attach to the residence of " the
Douglas," there is a melancholy association con-
nected with Douglas castle, as being the scene of
" Castle Dangerous," the last novel of Sir Walter
Scott, and the last place to whieh he made a pil-
grimage in Scotland. The preface to this work was
transmitted by Sir Walter from Naples in 1832, and
contains the following passage : — " The author, be-
fore he had made much progress in this, probably
the last of his novels, undertook a journey to Dou-
glasdale, for the purpose of examining the remains of
the famous castle, the kirk of St. Bride of Douglas,
the patron-saint of that great family, and the va-
rious localities alluded to by Godscroft, in his ac-
count of the early adventures of Good Sir James.
But though ho was fortunate enough to find a zeal
ous and well-informed cicerone in Mr. Thomas Had-
dow, and had every assistance from the kindness of
Mr. Alexander Finlay, the resident chamberlain of
his friend Lord Douglas, the state of his health at
the time was so feeble that he found himself inca-
pable of pursuing his researches, as in better days
he would have delighted to do, and was obliged to
be contented with such a cursory view of scenes, in
themselves most interesting, as could be snatched
in a single morning, when any bodily exertion was
painful. Mr. Haddow was attentive enough to for-
ward subsequently some notes on the points which
the author had seemed desirous of investigating ;
but these did not reach him until, being obliged to
prepare matters for a foreign excursion in quest of
health and strength, he had been compelled to bring
his work, such as it is, to a conclusion. The re-
mains of the old castle of Douglas are inconsidera-
ble. They consist, indeed, of but one rained tower,
standing at a short distance from the modern man-
sion, which itself is only a fragment of the design
on which the Duke of Douglas meant to reconstruct
the edifice, after its last accidental destruction by
fire. His Grace had kept in view the ancient pro-
phecy, that, as often as Douglas castle might be de-
stroyed it should rise again in enlarged dimensions
and improved splendour, and projected a pile of
building, which, if it had been completed, would
have much exceeded any nobleman's residence then
existing in Scotland ; as, indeed, what has been
finished, amounting to about one-eighth of the plan,
is sufficiently extensive for the accommodation of a
large establishment, and contains some apartments
the extent of which are magnificent. The situa
tion is commanding ; and though the Duke's suc-
cessors have allowed the mansion to continue as ha
left it, great expense has been lavished on the en-
virons, which now present a vast sweep of richly
undulated woodland, stretching to the borders of
the Cairntable mountains, repeatedly mentioned as
the favourite retreat of the great ancestor of the
family in the days of his hardships and persecution.
There remains at the head of the adjoining boury,
the choir of the ancient church of St. Bride, having
beneath it the vault which was used, till lately, as
the burial-place of this princely race, and only
abandoned when their stone and leaden coffins had
accumulated, in the course of five or six hundred
years, in such a way that it could accommodate no
more. Here a silver case, containing the dust of
what was once the brave heart of Good Sir James,
is still pointed out; and in the dilapidated choir
above appears, though in a sorely ruinous state, the
once magnificent tomb of the warrior himself."
The old church of Douglas was called St. Bride,
from being dedicated to St. Bridget or St. Bride.
It is a place of great antiquity ; and the spire, and
aisle which was used as the burying-place of the
family of Douglas, are still preserved. The new
burying-place is beneath tire present church, and
contains the coffins of the last Duke and Duchess
of Douglas, the late Lord Douglas, and others of his
kindred. The monuments in the old kirk of St.
Bride's are said to have been wantonly mutilated
by a party of Cromwell's troopers, who made the
edifice a stable for their horses, and at a still latei
period by the mischievous propensity of the boys of
the place, who for a length of time had free access
DOUGLAS.
392
DOUGLAS.
to the aisle. Even in their mutilated state some of
the monuments are exquisitely beautiful, and Sir
Walter Scott says of the tomb of the Good Sir
James, that " the monument, in its original state,
must have been not inferior in any respect to the
best of the same period in Westminster abbey."
The parish of Douglas is celebrated also in con-
nexion with the great ecclesiastical struggle of the
17th century. Upon Auchinsaugh hill, within its
bounds, the Covenanters met, on the 26th of July
17] 2, and engaged in a formal renewal of the so-
lemn league and covenant. In this district, too,
the Cameraman regiment — now the 26th of the line
■ — was embodied in defence of the Protestant govern-
ment of the Prince of Orange. They were mus-
tered on a field near the town of Douglas, in April
1689, under the command of Lord Angus, eldest
son of the Marquis of Douglas.
This parish is in the presbytery of Lanark, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Countess Home.
Stipend, £306 14s. The glebe is extensive and
valuable. Unappropriated teinds, £73 5s. 2d. School-
master's salary, now £52 10s., with fees. The pre-
sent parish church, though comparatively modern,
is incommodious. There is a Free church : atten-
dance, 300 ; receipts in 1865, £143 9s. 4d. There is
an United Presbyterian church, with an attendance
of about 170. There is a Reformed Presbyterian
church at Kigside, with an attendance of about 120.
There are two non-parochial schools, both aided by
Lord Douglas, the one at Rigside, the other at
Tableston, in the upper part of the parish. Accord-
ing to the earliest record, Douglas ecclesiastically
belonged to the monks of Kelso ; from whom it
passed, in the 12th century, into the hands of the
Douglas family, who have ever since retained the
patronage. The rectory of the parish was estab-
lished as a prebend of the cathedral church of Glas-
gow, previous to 1500 ; and at the Reformation was
held by Archibald Douglas, at which time the bene-
fice was valued at £200 yearly. This person was
actively concerned in the murder of David Rizzio,
and afterwards obtained a pardon for his crime. In
1568 he was appointed a lord of session by the
Regent Moray, in the room of Leslie, Bishop of
Ross, who was dismissed. There seem to have
been, in the Roman Catholic times, several ecclesi-
astical buildings in different parts of the parish, —
particularly at Anderson, Glentaggart, Parishholm,
and Chapel-hill.
The noble family of Douglas, " whose coronet so
often counterpoised the crown," and which has so
closely linked the district of Douglasdale to Scottish
story, is said to have been founded by Theobald, a
Fleming, who acquired these lands at a very early
period. The first great man of the house, however,
was " the Good Sir James," who was the friend and
companion of Robert the Bruce in his valorous
efforts to achieve the independence of Scotland.
His own castle of Douglas had been taken and gar-
risoned by the troops of Edward I. ; and he resolved
to take it, and at the same time inflict signal chas-
tisement on the intruders. History tells us that a
beautiful English maiden, named the Lady Augusta
de Berkely, had replied to her numerous suitors that
her hand should be given to him who should have
the courage and the ability to hold the perilous castle
of Douglas for a year and a day ; and Sir John de
Walton, anxious to win by his valour such a lovely
prize, undertook the keeping of the castle by con-
sent of Edward. For several months he discharged
his duty with honour and bravery, and the lady now
deeming his probation accomplished, and not unwill-
ing perhaps to unite her fortunes to one who had
Droved himself a true, and valiant knight, wrote him
an epistle recalling him. By this time, however, he
had received a defiance from Douglas, who declared
that despite all his bravery and vigilance, the castle
should be his own by Palm Sunday ; and De Walton
deemed it a point of honour to keep possession till
the threatened day should pass over. On the day
named Douglas having assembled his followers, as-
sailed the English as they retired from the church,
and having overpowered them took the castle. Sir
John de Walton was slain in the conflict, and the
letter of his lady-love being found in his pocket,
afflicted the generous and good Sir James " full
sorely." The account of this taking of the Castle
of Douglas, given in the History of the Houses of
Douglas and Angus, by Godscroft, is somewhat dif-
ferent, and states that Sir James had drawn Sir
John de Walton, by an ambuscade, out from the
castle into the open country, where he fell on his
band, killed their leader, and took the castle.
The stronghold, however, was more than once
taken, retaken, burnt, and rebuilt, during the life of
the Good Sir James; and the account of one of the
most interesting assaults upon it is given as follows,
by Godscroft : " The manner of his taking it is said
to have beene thus — Sir James taking with him only
two of his servants, went to Thomas Dickson of
whom he was received with tears, after he had re-
vealed himself to him, for the good old man knew
him not at first, being in mean and homely apparel.
There he kept him secretly in a quiet chamber, and
brought unto him such as had been trusty servants
to his father, not all at once, but apart by one and
one, for fear of discoverie. Their advice was, that
on Palm Sunday, when the English would come
forth to the church, and his partners were conveene'd,
that then he should give the word, and cry ' the
Douglas slogan,' and presently set upon them that
should happen to be there, who being despatched
the castle might be taken easily. This being con-
cluded, and they come, so soon as the English were
entred into the church with palms in their hands,
(according to the custom of that day,) little suspect-
ing or fearing any such thing, Sir James, according,
to their appointment, cryed too soon, (a Douglas, a
Douglas !) which being heard in the church, (this
was St. Bride's church of Douglas,) Thomas Dick-
son, supposing he had beene hard at hand, drew
out his sword and ran upon them, having none
to second him but another man, so that, oppressed
by the number of his enemies, he was beaten
downe and slaine. In the meantime, Sir James
being come, the English that were in the chancel
kept off the Scots, and having the advantage of
the strait and narrow entrie, defended themselves
manfully. But Sir James, encouraging his men,
not so much by words as by deeds and good example,
and having slain the boldest resisters, prevailed at
last, and entring the place, slew some twenty-six of
their number, and tooke the rest, about ten or twelve
persons, intending by them to get the castle upon
composition, or to enter with them when the gates
should be opened to let them in ; but it needed not,
for they of the castle were so secure that there was
none left to keep it, save the porter and the cooke,
who knowing nothing of what had hapned at the
church, which stood a large quarter of a mile from
thence, had left the gate wide open, the porter stand-
ing without, and the cooke dressing the dinner with-
in. They entred without resistance, and meat being-
ready, and the cloth laid, they shut the gates and
took their refection at good leasure. Now that he
had gotten the castle into his hands, considering
with himself (as he was a man no lesse advised than
valiant) that it was hard for him to keep it, the
English being as yet the stronger in that countrey.
DOUGLAS.
393
DOUGLAS.
who if tlicy should besiege him, he knewo of no rc-
liefe, he thought it better to carry aw.'iy such things
as he most easily transported, gold, silver, and appa-
rell, with ammunition and armour, whereof he had
greatest use and need, and to destroy the rest of the
provision, together with the castle itselfe, than to
diminish the number of his followers there where it
could do no good. And so he caused carry the meale
and meat, and other corncs and grain into the cellar,
and laid all together in one heape: then he took the
prisoners and slew them, to revenge the death of his
trustic and valiant servant, Thomas Dickson, ming-
ling the victuals with their bloud, and burying their
carkasses in the heap of corne : after that he struck
out the heads of the barells, and puncheons, and let
the drink rutin through all ; and then he cast the
carkasses of dead horses and other carrion amongst
it, throwing the salt above all, so to make all to-
gether unuseful to the enemie ; and this cellar is
called yet the Douglas lairder. Last of all he set
the house on fire, and burnt all the timber, and what
else the fire could overcome, leaving nothing but the
scorched walls behind him."
In 1312-13, Sir James took the castle of Roxburgh,
and in the following year commanded the centre of
the Scottish army at the battle of Bannockburn. In
1317, the English were defeated by him, under the
Earl of Arundel. In 1319, Sir James, in conjunction
with Randolph, Earl of Moray, entered England by
the west marches with 1,500 men, routed the Eng-
lish under the Archbishop of York, eluded Edward
II., and returned with honour to Scotland. When
Robert the Bruce was on his deathbed, in 1329, he
sent for his true friend and companion in arms the
Good Sir James, and requested him, that so soon as
his spirit had departed to Him who gave it, he should
proceed with his heart and deposit it with humility
md reverence, at the sepulchre of our Lord at Jer-
usalem. Douglas resolved to carry the request of
the dying King into execution ; and for this purpose
he received a passport from Edward III., dated Sep-
tember 1, 1329. He set sail in the following year
with the heart of his honoured master, accompanied
by a splendid retinue. Having anchored off Sluys,
he. was informed that Alphonso XL, the king of
Leon and Castile, was engaged in hostilities in
Grenada with the Moorish commander. Osmyn ; and
this determined him to pass into Spain, and assist
the Christians to combat the Saracens, preparatory
to completing his journey to Jerusalem. Douglas
and his friends were wafcmly received by Alphonso,
and having encountered the Saracens at Theba, on
the frontiers of Andalusia, on August 25, 1330, they
were routed. Douglas eagerly followed in the pur-
suit, and taking the casket which contained the
heart of Bruce, he threw it before him, exclaiming,
" Onward, brave heart, that never failed, and Dou-
glas will follow thee or die I" The Saracens rallied,
however, and the Good Sir James was slain. His
companions found his body upon the field along with
the casket, and mournfully conveyed them to Scot-
land. The heart of the Bruce was deposited at
Melrose, although his body was interred in the royal
tomb at Dunfermline. The remains of Sir James
were buried at Douglas, and a monument erected to
him by his brother Archibald. The old poet Bar-
bour, after reciting the circumstances of Sir James'
fall in Spain, tells us —
" Qnlien Ills men lang had mad murnyn,
Thai debowlyt him, and syne
Gert scher him swa, that mycht be tane
The fleseh all haly fra the bane,
And the carioune thar in haly place
Erdyt, with rycht gret worschip, was.
" The banys have thai with them tane;
And syne ar to thair schippis gane;
Syne towart Scotland held thair way.
And thar ar cummyn in (nil grot by.
And the banys honorabilly
In till the kirk oil' Douglas war
Erdyt, with dull and niekill car.
Schyr Archebald has sone gert syn
Otr alabastre, baith fair and fyne,
Or save a tumbe sn richly
As it behowyt to sua worthy."
The family was raised to an earldom in 1357 by
David II. ; and during this reign and the two which
succeeded, the house of Douglas rose to a degree of
power scarcely inferior to that of royalty itself ; so
that, as has been remarked by an old historian, it
became a saying that "nae man was safe in the
country, unless he were either a Douglas or a Dou-
glas man." The Earl went abroad with a train of
2,000 men, kept a sort of court, and even created
knights. In 1424, Archibald, the 5th Earl, became
possessed of the duchy of Touraine in France, for
services which he had rendered to Charles VII. the
French king. William, the 6th Earl, when only a
stripling, succeeded to the family power at a stage
when it had attained a most formidable height.
Their estates in Galloway — where they possessed
the stronghold of Thrieve — and those of Annan-
dale, and Douglas, afforded them a vast amount of
revenue, and enabled them to raise an army not infe-
rior to that of their sovereign. It was at this time,
however, the policy of Crichton — one of the ablest
of those who nad the direction of affairs during the
minority of James II. — to humble the overgrown
power of the nobles ; and accordingly Earl William,
having been decoyed into the castle of Edinburgh,
was subjected to a mock trial for treason, and behead-
ed Nov. 24, 1440. " This noble youth and his brother
and a few other principal friends," says Godscroft,
" on their arrival in Edinburgh, went directly to the
Castle, being led as it were and drawn by a fatal des-
tiny, and so came in the power of their deadly ene-
mies and feigned friends. At the very instant comes
the Governor, as was before appointed betwixt them,
to play his part of the tragedy, and both he and
the Chancellor might be alike embarked in the ac-
tion, and bear the envy of so ugly a fact, that the
weight thereof might not be on one alone ; yet to
play out their treacherous parts, they welcome him
most courteously, set him to dinner with the King
at the same table, feast him royally, entertain him
cheerfully, and that for a long time. At last, about
the end of dinner, they compass him about with
armed men, and cause present a bull's head before
him on the board. The bull's head was in those
days a token of death, say our histories ; but how
it hath come in use to be taken and signify, neither
do they nor any else tell us ; neither is it to be
found, that I remember, anywhere in history, save
in this one place ; neither can we conjecture what
affinity it can have therewith, unless to exprobrate
grossness, according to the French, and our own
reproaching dull and gross wits, by calling him
calf 's-head (tete de veau) but not bull's head. The
young nobleman, either understanding the sign as
an ordinary thing, or astonished with it as an un-
couth thing, upon the sight of the bull's head, offer-
ing to rise, was laid hold of by their armed men, in
the King's presence, at the King's table, which
should have been a sanctuary to him. And so
without regard of King, or any duty, and without
any further process, without order, assize, or jury,
without law, no crime objected, he not being con-
victed at all, a young man of that age, that was not
liable to the law in regard of his youth, a nobleman
of that place, a worthy young gentleman of such
expectation, a guest of that acceptation, one who
had reposed upon their credit, who had committed
DOUGLAS.
394
DOUGLAS.
himself to them, a friend in mind, who looked for
friendship, to whom all friendship was promised,
against duty, law, friendship, faith, honesty, hu-
manity, hospitality, against nature, against human
society, against God'S law, against man's law, and
the law of nature, is cruelly executed and put to
death. David Douglas, his younger brother, was
also put to death with him, and Malcolm Fleming
of Cumbernauld ; they were all three beheaded in
the back court of the Castle that lieth to the west."
" When Earl Douglas to the Castle came
The courts they were fu' grim to see ;
And he liked na the feast as they sat at dine,
The tables were served sae silentlie.
And full twenty feet fro the table he sprang
When the grisly bull's head met bis e'e;
But the Crichtouns a' cam' troupin in,
An' he coudna fight an' wadna flie.
O, when the news to Hermitage came,
The Douglasses were brim and wud ;
They swore to set Embro' in a bleeze.
An' slocben't wi' auld Crichtoun's blood."
The duchy of Touraine now revetted to the French
king. After a brief period of depressed fortune, the
family rose to a still greater degree of power than
ever, in the person of William, the 8th Earl. He
was at first a favourite of James II., but having
fallen into partial disgrace he went abroad, and his
castle of Douglas was demolished during his ab-
sence by orders of the King, on account of the inso-
lence of his dependents. Upon the return of the
Earl he came under obedience to the King, but this
was not meant to be sincere. He attempted to
assassinate Crichton the chancellor, and executed
John Hemes in despite of the King's mandate to
the contrary. " By forming a league with the Earl
of Crawford and other barons, he united against his
sovereign almost one-half of his kingdom. But his
credulity led him into the same snare which had
been fatal to the former Earl. Belying on the
King's promises, who had now attained to the years
of manhood, and having obtained a safe-conduct
under the great seal, he ventured to meet him in
Stirling castle. James urged him to dissolve that
dangerous confederacy into which he had entered ;
the Earl obstinately refused : — ' If you will not,'
said the enraged monarch, drawing his dagger, ' this
shall ! ' and stabbed him to the heart. An action
so unworthy of a king filled the nation with as-
tonishment and with horror. The Earl's vassals
ran to arms with the utmost fury ; and dragging
the safe-conduct, which the King had granted and
violated, at a horse's tail, they marched towards
Stirling, burnt the town, and threatened to besiege
the castle. An accommodation, however, ensued ;
on what terms is not known. But the King's jea-
lousy, and the new Earl's power and resentment,
prevented it from being of long continuance. Both
took the field at the head of their armies, and met
near Abercorn. That of the Earl, composed chiefly
of borderers, was far superior to the King's, both in
number and in valour ; and a single battle must in
all probability have decided whether the house of
Stewart or the house of Douglas was henceforth to
possess the throne of Scotland. But while his
troops impatiently expected the signal to engage,
the Earl ordered them to retire to tbeir camp ; and
Sir James Hamilton of Cadzow, the person in whom
he placed the greatest confidence, convinced of his
want of genius to improve an opportunity, or of his
want of courage to seize a crown, deserted him that
very night. This example was followed by many ;
and the Earl, despised or forsaken by all, was soon
driven out of the kingdom, and obliged to depend
for his subsistence on the King of England." The
overgrown strength of this family was destroyed in
the year 1455 ; and the Earl, after enduring many
vicissitudes, retired in his old age to Lindores abbey
in Fife, and died there in 1488.
The title of Earl of Douglas, of this the first
branch of the family, existed for 98 years, giving an
average of 11 years to each possessor. The lands
of the family reverted to the Crown ; but they were
shortly afterwards bestowed on the Earl of Angus,
the head of a junior branch of the old family, de-
scended from George Douglas, the only son of
William 1st Earl of Douglas by his third wife, Mar-
garet Countess of Angus, who, upon his mother's
resignation of her right, received her title. This fa-
mily assisted in the destruction of the parent-house ;
and it became a saying, in allusion to the com-
plexion of the two races, that the red Douglas had
put down the black. This family produced some
men who have occupied a prominent position in Scot-
tish story, such as Archibald, the 5th Earl, who was
known by the soubriquet of Bell-the-cat ; and Archi-
bald, the 6th Earl, who, marrying Margaret of Eng-
land, widow of James IV., who fell at Flodden, was the
grandfather of the unfortunate Henry Lord Damley,
the husband of Queen Mary, and father of James VI.
This Archibald, during the minority of his step-son
James V., had all the authority of a regent. From
the accession of the second Douglas line, after the
forfeiture of the first, the possessions of the house
were held by the family in uninterrupted succession
till the death of the Duke of Douglas in 1761. Wil-
liam, the 11th Earl of Angus, was raised to the
marquisate of Douglas, in 1633, by Charles I. This
nobleman was a Catholic and a royalist, and inclined
to hold out his castle against the Covenanters, in
favour of the King; but he was surprised by them,
and the castle taken. He was one of the best of
the family, and kept up to its fullest extent the
olden princely Scottish hospitality. The King con-
stituted him his lieutenant on the borders, and he
joined Montrose after his victory at Kilsyth, escaped
from the rout at the battle of Philliphaugh, and
soon after made terms with the tailing powers. The
first Marquis of Douglas was the father of three
peers of different titles, viz. Archibald, his eldest
son, who succeeded him as second Marquis ; Wil-
liam, his eldest son by a second marriage, who be-
came 3d Duke of Hamilton; and George, his second
son by the same marriage, who was created Earl of
Dumbarton. Archibald, the 3d Marquis, succeeded
to the peerage in 1700, and was created Duke of
Douglas in 1703. In the rebellion of 1715 he ad-
hered to the ruling family of Hanover, and fought
as a volunteer in the battle of Sheriffmuir. He
died childless at Queensberry-house, Edinburgh, in
1761, when the ducal title became extinct. The
Marquisate of Douglas devolved, through heirs-male,
to the Duke of Hamilton, on account of his descent
from the 1st Marquis; and the title of Marquis of
Douglas and Clydesdale is now conceded by cour-
tesy to the eldest son of that ducal house. The real
and personal estate of the Duke of Douglas was in
herited by his nephew, Archibald Stewart, Esq.,
who was served his nearest lawful heir, September
3, 1761. This gentleman assumed the surname of
Douglas, and was created Baron Douglas by George
III. 'in 1796.
DOUGLAS, a small post-town in the parish of
Douglas, on the right bank of Douglas Water, 9,
miles south-west of Douglas-Mill, and 11 south-
south-west of Lanark. It was formerly a busy mar-
ket-town, a seat of considerable trade, a place of
much political importance, and a burgb of barony
whose magistrates wielded the power of life and
DOUGLAS BUEN.
395
DOUNE.
death over culprits, togothcr with other important
Ererogativcs ; but, like many other old towns which
asked in the favour of a great feudal chief, it has
lost tho capacity of following prosperity through the
free forms of modern institutions. Its entire ap-
pearance is antique and palsied. Its streets are very
narrow ; some of its houses look as if they still be-
longed to the dark ages; its inhabitants, with re-
markably few exceptions, are all in the grade of
weavers, mechanics, or labourers; and its very fairs
were, till recently, associated with the grave-yard.
A cotton factory was established in 1792 ; but it
continued in operation for only a few years, leaving
no other effect than a connexion with Glasgow in
handloom-weaving. The place, neveitheless, is re-
plete with interest for its antiquarian associations.
It also has offices of the City of Glasgow and tho
Commercial Banks, and congregational libraries.
Fairs are held on the first Wednesday of February,
on the third Friday of March, on the first Friday
after Whitsunda}', old style, on the second Wednes-
day of June, old style, on the second Friday of Au-
gust, old style, on the third Friday of October, and
on the first Friday after Michaelmas. Population
in 1841, 1,313; in 1861, 1,426. Houses, 204.
DOUGLAS BURN, a streamlet of Selkirkshire.
It rises on the Blackhouse heights, contiguously to
the boundary-line with Peebles-shire, and runs
about 6 miles south-eastward to the Yarrow, at a
point about 2 miles below the foot of St. Mary's
Loch See the article Blackhouse.
DOUGLAS BUEN, a streamlet of Argyleshire.
It rises among the mountains between Loch Fyne
and Loch Awe, and runs about 7 miles sinuously
eastward to Loch Fyne, at a place 3 miles south of
Inverary. A remarkable section of rock, about 100
feet high, occurs in its channel, exhibiting alternate
strata of limestone and mica-slate.
DOUGLAS BURN, a streamlet of Dumbarton-
shire. It rises within a mile of the upper part of
Loch Long, and flows about 5 miles east-south-east-
ward, along the boundary between the parish of
Arrochar and the parish of Luss, to Loch-Lomond
at Lower Inveruglass.
_ DOUGLASDALE, the parish of Douglas, the ba-
sin of the Douglas river, or the whole of the middle
ward of Lanarkshire. The name has been employed
in each of the three senses, but is not now in com-
mon use.
DOUGLAS-MILL, the place of an extinct inn, at
the intersection of the Glasgow and Carlisle road
with the Edinburgh and Ayr road, in the parish of
Douglas, 2 miles north-east of the town of Douglas,
Lanarkshire.
DOUGLAS-MOOR, a large district of the parish
of Crawford, Lanarkshire. The name is nearly ob-
solete. '
DOUGLASTOWN, a village in the parish of Kin-
nettles, Forfarshire. It stands on the Arity, at the
western verge of the parish, on the road from Glam-
mis to Forfar, 2 J miles east of Glammis, and 3 J
south-west of Forfar. A flax spinning mill, four
stories high, and of proportionate length and
breadth, was built here in 1792 by Mr. Douglas of
Brigton and partners ; and the village was erected
at the same time, at great expense, chiefly for the
accommodation of the workers in the mill. Popu-
lation, 83.
DOUGLAS WATER. See Douglas (Tiie) and
Douglas Burn.
DOULOCH, or Dow-Loch, a small fresh-water
lake, at the foot of Glenshira, formed by an expan-
sion of the Shira rivulet, 2 miles north-east of In-
verary, Argyleshire. The name signifies " the black
lake," and alludes to the sombreness and depth of
the waters. The lake reaches to within a quartet
of a mile of Loch Fyne, and lies so slightly above
that sea-arm's level as to be occasionally visited
with some small portion of sea-water in spring-tides
yet presents every appearance of having, for many
centuries, been a strictly independent sheet of wa-
ter. Herrings and other salt-water fish have some-
times been taken in it in the same net with trout
and salmon.
DOUNE, a small post-town in the parish of Kil
madock, Perthshire. It stands on the road from
Stirling to Callander, and on the left bank of the
Teith, at the influx of the Ardoch, about a mile east
of Deanston, 8 miles north-west of Stirling, and 8J
south-east of Callander. The surrounding scenery
is considerably diversified and very beautiful. The
town itself has a pleasant appearance, and contains
some objects of architectural interest. It consists
principally of one large street, and two smaller ones
branching off from this. But on the west side of it,
at the bridge which takes over the thoroughfare to
Deanston, is a sort of suburb which has been vari-
ously called Cotton-Row, Bridge-of-Teith, and New
town of Doune. The town consists of well-built
houses, most of them slated and of modern erection,
and some of them very substantial, neat, and com-
modious. The parish church is a very handsome edi-
fice, in the Gothic style, with an elegant tower; The
United Presbyterian church is a neat modern struc-
ture. Here are also two Free churches, an Episco-
palian chapel, and a Methodist meeting-house.
Here likewise are a parochial school, a Free school,
and a public library. The town has a market-
cross. The bridge across the Teith is a strong
building of two arches, erected in 1535 by Robert
Spittal, tailor to King James IV.
But the principal object of architectural beauty
here is the ancient castle of Doune. This is situated
contiguous to the town, on a mound apparently
artificial, and surrounded by beautiful wooded
banks. The Teith flows immediately under its
walls, and is joined a little below by the Ardoch.
The period of its erection has not been ascertained.
Tradition ascribes its foundation to Murdoch, Duke
of Albany, who, along with his two sons, fell be-
neath the axe of the executioner at Stirling in 1425,
during the glorious but iron reign of James I.
This account, however, is obviously quite false ; for
although it was undoubtedly possessed by Albany,
it had been for nearly a century before his time the
seat of the Earls of Menteith. The custody of
Doune castle was granted by James V. to James
Stewart, ancestor of the Moray family. It after-
wards fell into the full possession of his son, who
was created Lord Doune in 1581 ; and since that
period it has continued in the possession of the Earls
of Moray. This ancient stronghold is of prodigious
size and" strength. It forms a square pile, the sides
of which are 96 feet in length, the walls being 40
feet high, and 10 in thickness. Considering its im-
mense age, it presents wonderfully few marks of the
injuries of time. The tower, which stands at the
north-east corner, is massive and lofty, being 80 feet
high. The great hall is 63 feet long, and 25 wide.
There are several other spacious apartments in that
portion of the building which appears to have con-
stituted the family-residence; and the whole of them
exhibit striking proofs of former grandeur. From
the south-east corner of what seems to have been
the dining-room, a narrow stair descends into a sub
terranean passage which leads into a small dark
cell, obviously intended for the purposes of a dungeon.
Its roof is vaulted, and contains a small hole, — pro
bably for lowering scanty pittances of food to the
unhappy captive. There are other vaults aud
DOURA.
396
DOWN-HILL.
prisons on the ground floor on each side of the entry,
all of them of the same frightful description. The
building was formerly covered with stones or slates ;
but no part of the roof now remains. Doune castle
was occupied for the last time as a place of defence
in 1745, by the adherents of Prince Charles, who
planted a twelve-pounder in one of the windows, and
several swivels on the parapets. John Home, the
author of ' Douglas,' and Dr. Witherspoon, after-
wards distinguished as a presbyterian divine, were
confined along with other prisoners taken by the
Pretender's forces. Many of our readers will re-
member the graphic account of their escape, given
by Home in his ' History of the Rebellion.' Sir
Walter Scott passed some of his younger years in
the neighbourhood of Doune castle; and, besides
directly introducing it into his story of Waverley, he
no doubt drew suggestions and delineations from it
into some of his other productions. It is mentioned
also in the ballad which relates the death of the
" Bonnie Earl o' Moray."
Doune was formerly celebrated for the manufac-
ture of skins, Highland purses, and Highland pistols.
But now it is sustained mainly by the cotton-mills
of Deanston, and by the general business of miscel-
laneous handicraft and retail trade. Fairs are held
on the second Wednesday of February, the second
Wednesday of May, the last Wednesday of July,
the first Tuesday and Wednesday and fourth Wed-
nesday of November, and the last Wednesday of
December. The November fairs are great ones,
that on the first Tuesday for sheep, that on the first
Wednesday for black cattle, and that on the fourth
Wednesday for both sheep and cattle. The town
has an office of the Union Bank, an office of the
Eoyal Bank, a gas company, a free masons' lodge,
a free gardeners' lodge, and a curling club; and it
has likewise a station on the Callander branch of
the Scottish Central railway. About a mile north-
west of Doune stands Doune-Lodge, a seat of the
Earl of Moray, formerly belonging to the Edmon-
stones, and then called Cambus- Wallace. Popula-
tion of the town in 1841, 1,559 ; in 1861, 1,25G.
DOUNIES. See Banchory-Devenick.
DOUN-EEAY. See Reay.
DOURA, a collier village in the parish of Kil-
winning, Ayrshire. The coal-works in its vicinity
are of great extent, and are connected with the Ar-
drossan branch of the Glasgow and Ayr railway by
a single-line railroad. Population of the village in
1861, 295.
DOVAN (The). See Devon.
DOVECOTHALL, a village in the south-east of
the parish of Paisley, Renfrewshire. Its inhabitants
are employed chieflv in the print-fields of the Levern.
DOVECOTLAND, a village in the East-church
parish of Perth, suburban to the city of Perth.
Population in 1861, 529.
DOVERAN (The). See Deveron.
DOVESLAND, a thickly peopled district of the
southern part of the parish of Paisley, Renfrewshire.
It is inhabited chiefly by weavers.
DOWALLY, a parish, containing a small village
of its own name, in the Strathtay district of Perth-
shire. It was originally a chapelry of Caputh, but
was constituted a separate parish in 1500, and is
now united to Dunkeld. It consists of a main body
and a detached district. The main body has the
outline of a parallelogram, extending 6 miles down
the left bank of the Tay, to the Pleybum, about a
mile from the town of Dunkeld, yet is bounded at
that end by a small interjected portion of Caputh ;
and it marches with Kirkmichael on the east, and
with Logierait on the north. The detached district
is the barony of Dulcapon, situated on the left bank
of the Tummel, three-fourths of a mile in length,
and separated from the main body by Logierait.
The entire parish is estimated, in the New Statistical
Account, to comprise 1,200 acres of arable land, 300
of pasture, 10,200 of woods, and 200 of lakes, — in
all, 12,000 acres. The main body consists of a nar-
row band of low ground along the Tay, and a grand
forest-clad range of overhanging heights. Some ol
the heights, however, are pleasantly pastoral, while
others are abundantly stocked with roe deer, and
with various kinds of game. The rocky hills oi
Craigie Bams and Craigiebenean, on the lower
boundary, present a very precipitous and picturesque
appearance. The King's pass, between Craigie
Bams and a large rocky, wooded hill, called the
King's Seat, derives its name from the circumstance
of its having been the place where the Scottish mo-
narchs placed themselves, in order to direct their
shafts with advantage at the flying deer, when driven
that way for their amusement ; and, according to a
story told by William Barclay in his treatise ' Contra
Monarchomachos,' a chase of this kind had very
nearly prevented the future miseries of the unhappy
Mary Stuart. The road, which passes through Dow-
ally to Athole, has been cut with great labour and
expense along the bottom of the King's Seat, which
overhangs the river so closely, and at such a height,
that the timid traveller, who looks over the wall
that has been built to support it, is little disposed to
linger on his way. A lake of about half a mile in
circumference lies on the summit of the hill of
Duchray, at an elevation of nearly 1,900 feet above
sea-level. Loch-Ordie, a much larger lake, lies at an
elevation of about 700 feet. There are also the two
lakes of Rotmel, whence issues the Dowallyburn,
which drives two saw-mills, and runs into the Tay.
The village of Dowally stands on this bum, 4J miles
north by west of Dunkeld. Population of the par
ish in 1861, 971. See Dunkeld.
This parish, notwithstanding its entire union
politically and ecclesiastically with Dunkeld, is
nearly as distinct in the religious connections of its
people, as if it were formally separate. It is a
Gaelic district, while Dunkeld is an English one;
and it has its own minister, church, and school-
master. The minister, indeed, is only the Dunkeld
incumbent's assistant, but he resides in Dowally, and
officiates both in English and in Gaelic. The for-
mer church was built at the time of the separation
of the parish from Caputh, and was a long, narrow,
inelegant structure. The present church was built
in 1818. and contains 220 sittings. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50, with fees.
DOWALTON (Loch), a fresh-water lake on the
mutual border of the parishes of Kirkmuir, Glass-
arton, and Sorbie, Wigtonshire. It has its name
from the family of M'Dowall, the proprietor of the
lands in which it is embosomed ; but is also some-
times called Longcastle Loch. On the north, it
sends out a stream, which, flowing eastward over a
course of 4J miles, and intersecting the parish of
Sorbie, falls into the sea at Garlieston. The lake is
about 3 miles in circumference, and from 5 to 20 feet
deep. On its western side it has an island of about
30 acres in area, on which are traces of an old build-
ing called Longcastle.
DOW-LOCH. See Douloch, Ci.tjnie, and Penpont.
DOWN -HILL, an eminence, rising 580 feet
above sea-level, on the boundary of the parish of
Dunbar, Haddingtonshire. It is remarkable as the
place of the Covenanters' encampment, previous to
their defeat by Cromwell ; and it sometimes gives
to that action the name of the battle of Downhill,
to distinguish it from the battle of Dunbar of the
13th century.
DOWN-HILL.
397
DREGIIOKN.
DOWN-HILL, an apparently artificial elevation,
in the parish of Edcnkillie, Morayshire. It appears
to have been a fortress of great antiquity. It is of
a conical shape, round a considerable part of which
runs the rapid Divio, in a deep rocky channel ; and,
where not defended by tho river, it is encircled by a
deep ditch with a strong rampart, tho stones of
which bear marks of fusion.
DOWN1E-HILLS, a hilly ridge extending east
and west through the parish of Monikie, Forfarshire.
It consists principally of a beautiful trap, well
adapted for either roads or masonry, but terminates
on the west in a quarry of excellent sandstone.
Good specimens of agate, jasper, and spar are found
on it.
DOWNIE-POINT, a bold headland in the parish
of Dunnottar, screening the south side of the bay
of Stonehaven, Kincardineshire.
DOWNIES, a fishing harbour at the southern
extremity of the parish of Banchory-Devenick, 6
miles north-west of Stonehaven, Kincardineshire.
DRAFFEN. See Duxino.
DRAGON-HOLE. See Kixnoul.
DRAIN1E, a parish, containing the post-town of
Lossiemouth and the villages of Stotfield and
Branderburgh, on the coast of Morayshire. It is
bounded on the north by the Moray frith, and on
other sides by the parishes of Urquhart, St. Andrews
Lhanbryd, Spynie, and Duffus. Its length, east
and west, is about 4 miles, and its breadth is about
2. The river Lossie traces the eastern boundary,
and the site of the quondam loch of Spynie is tra-
versed by the southern boundary. The surface of
the parish is low and flat. There are only two small
eminences meriting the name of hills. The loch
of Spynie, which lies 1J mile along the southern
boundary, was drained about the year 1807, at an
expense of £10,800. Great profit was anticipated
from it in the way of reclaimed rich land ; but only
small profit was for a long time realized. Much
of the soil was found to be impregnated with sulphur
and iron, affording nothing better than coarse pas-
turage, neither wholesome nor nutritious, and said
to have the property of converting the colour of
black cattle feeding upon it into grey. Some of the
reclaimed soil near the margin of the loch, however,
was rich fertile clay. The New Statistical Account
in 1842 said respecting the whole parish, — "The
low drained fields consist of rich loam or marly clay,
and bear heavy crops of every kind of grain; the
lighter grounds rest upon a substratum of gravel,
or upon pure white sand. The quality of the ground
is various, and the transition from the very best to
the worst so sudden that scarcely twenty acres alike
are to be found. About a square mile in the centre
is of the very worst description." The loch of
Spynie discharged itself into the Lossie, about a
mile from the sea. A canal now runs a little from
the north of Spynie castle, on the site of Spynie loch,
through Drainie parish to the Lossie, a little above
Lossiemouth. Through the low plains, on each
side of the Lossie, as it runs from Elgin along the
eastern border of this parish to the sea, large em-
bankments of earth have been raised at great ex-
pense, in order to prevent a recurrence of the cala-
mitous inundation which happened in 1829. The
two small eminences or hills in Drainie abound with
white and yellow freestone, which is in great re-
quest for building over all this quarter of the
country. In the Coulart hill, between Lossiemouth
and Stotfield, there are appearances of lead. An un-
successful attempt to mine the lead was made about
70 years ago; and another attempt, under promising
circumstances, was begun in 1853. The hill of Cove-
sea consists of one continuous mass of freestone, up-
wards of a mile in length, and forming a hold shore,
cut and excavated by the surge into curious arches,
caves, and pyramids. The scenery here is grand
and picturesque. See Covesea. At Lossiemouth,
also, a natural cave, about 10 feet square, called St.
Gerardine's cave, was adorned with a handsome
Gothic door and windows, and a medicinal spring
issuing from the rock above the hermitage; but in
the course of working the quarries, it has been
totally destroyed. The rental of the parish is about
£7,600. The assessed property in 1860 was £7,565
odds. The fisheries are of considerable value. Great
advantages of communication are enjoyed by the
Morayshire railway from Lossiemouth to Elgin, and
from the calls of the Leith and Inverness steamers.
Population in 1831, 1,296; in 1861, 3,028. Houses,
503.
This parish is in the presbytery of Elgin, and
synod of Moray. It consists of the two ancient
parishes of Kinneddar and Ogston, which were
united soon after the Restoration, and received the
name of Drainie from the erection of a new central
church on the estate of Drainie at the annexation.
Patron, Gordon Cumming of Altyre. Stipend,
£242 7s. 5d. ; glebe, £10. Schoolmaster's salary
now is £60, with fees and other emoluments. The
palish church is an elegant structure, built in 1823,
and containing about 700 sittings. There is a neat
chapel subordinate to it in Lossiemouth. There are
also in Lossiemouth a Free church and an United
Presbyterian church. Receipts at the former in
1865, £228 14s. 9d.; attendance at the latter, 270.
There are four non-parochial schools.
DREEL, See Anstruther (Easter).
DREGHORN, a parish, containing a post-office
village of its own name, in the southern part of the
district of Cunningham, Ayrshire. It is an irregular
stripe, about 8 miles long, and from J of a mile to
2 miles broad, stretching from south-west to north-
east. On three sides its boundary is marked by
streams, — on the east by Garrier bum, which divides
it from Kilmaurs, — on the south by Irvine water,
which divides it from Dundonald, — and on the west
and north-west by Annock water, which divides it
from Irvine and Stewarton ; and on the north-east
the parish is bounded by Fenwiek. At the south-
west end — which is distant only a mile from the
coast — the surface is a dead flat very slightly above
sea-level ; but it thence rises, in gentle undulations,
toward the east and north-east, and both in the in-
terior, and especially along the banks of the Annock,
wears a pleasing appearance. In the flat grounds,
the soil is sandy and gravelly ; but in the other dis-
tricts, it is a fine deep loam, remarkably fertile.
The whole parish, except a few acres of meadow-
land, is under cultivation, well-enclosed, and judici-
ously interspersed with wood. Coal is very largely
worked. Limestone, ironstone, and sandstone are
found. The principal mansions are Annock-Lodge,
Picrceton, Warwickhill, and Cunninghamhead. The
parish is traversed eastward by the Glasgow and
South-western railway, and by the road from Irvine
to Kilmarnock, and north-eastward by the road from
Irvine, through Stewarton, to Glasgow; and is pro-
vided with numerous cross or subordinate roads.
The village of Dreghorn is situated in the south-west
district of the parish, on the first gentle acclivity
above the flat grounds, and commands a fine view
of the frith of Clyde, and the coast of Ayrshire.
The houses stand in irregular lines, and, being in-
terspersed with trees, and whitewashed, make a fine
rural grouping to the eye. The village is 2 miles
from Irvine, on the highway between that town
and Kilmarnock; and has about 900 inhabitants.
Population of the parish in 1831, 88S; in 1861.
DREGHORN.
598
DRON.
1,828. Houses, 282. Assessed property in 1843,
£10,129 18s. 8d.; in 1860, £18,915.
This parish is in the presbytery of Irvine, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. It comprehends the
ancient parishes of Dreghorn and Pierceton, which
were united in 1668. The churches of both parishes
anciently belonged to the monks of Kilwinning, and
were served by vicars. In 1603, the patronage of
the church of Pierceton, with the tithes and church-
lands, were granted to Hugh, the Earl of Eglinton,
whose descendant continues to be the patron of the
united parish. Stipend, £259 15s. Id.; glebe, £15.
Unappropriated teinds, £738 2s. 2d. Schoolmaster's
salary, now £52 10s. The parish church was built
in 1780, but was much injured by a stroke of light-
ning in December 1854. There is a Free church at
Pierceton: attendance, 200 ; receipts in 1865, £144
3s. ll^d. There are schools at Dreghorn, Crossroads,
and Pierceton, — the last a Free church school.
DREGHORN, an estate in the parish of Colinton,
among the roots of the Pentland hills, about a mile
south-east of the village of Colinton, Edinburgh-
shire. The scenery on and around it is beautiful.
The mansion, called Dreghorn Castle, was built
about 50 years ago, and stands embosomed among
wood about 490 feet above sea-level.
DREINICH, a small island in Loch Linnhe, near
the island of Lismore.
DREM, a post-office village in the parish of
Athelstaneford, Haddingtonshire. It stands on
the road from Edinburgh to North Berwick, con-
tiguous to the North British railway, at the
point where that railway sends off the branch to
North Berwick, 4 miles north of Haddington,
and 17J east of Edinburgh. Here is a railway
station, which serves for Athelstaneford and Aber-
lady. Thu barony of Drem, comprising upwards of
500 acres of fine land, belonged in former times to
the Knights Templars. The priest's house is still
standing; and what was his garden adjoins it, de-
fended by a holly hedge. The chapel, large part of
which also remains, appears to have been a small
but neat building. On the barony, a little to the
south of the village, on a low conical hill with a flat
summit, the foundations of the conical houses of a
Pictish town, built round the hill side in regular
rows, are still discernible, with those of large ob-
long houses in the centre. The town had been
strongly fortified, first by a deep circumvallation,
and higher up by three perpendicular ramparts.
DRHUIM (The), an exquisitely picturesque
portion of the strath of the Beauly, with a group
of water-falls, on the grounds of Lord Lovat,
Inverness-shire. " This." say the Messrs. Ander-
son, "is the most sweetly Highland and beauti-
ful part of the course of the Beauly. On either
hand the mountain acclivities are rather steep
and rocky, and the valley between them is not
a quarter of a mile broad; but woods of birch
and fir encompass the wbole scene, especially
on the north side; and the edges of the river are
fringed all along with rows of oak, weeping birches,
and alders. In one part, half up the strath, near
the cottage of Teanassie (the burn of which will re-
ward its being explored), the waters plunge through
a rocky passage encircling high pyramids of stone,
standing up in the midst of the stream, gigantic
witnesses of its ceaseless and consuming power.
Immediately below, the turmoil ceases, and the
quieted element reposes in smooth dark linns;
while the rocks at the same time recede and give
place to soft daisied banks and sweet patches of
corn land. On the southern shore, on a high conical
mound rising above a perpendicular sheet of rock,
is Dnn Fion, a vitrified structure, which was laid
open some years ago for the inspection of the
curious by order of Lord Lovat."
DRIMINNER. See Tullynessle.
DRIMMIE. See Longfokgam.
DRIMMIN, the site of. an ancient castle, now
occupied by a Roman Catholic chapel, in the north-
west comer of the parish of Morvern, near the north
end of the Sound of Mull, Argylesbire. The spot
is conspicuous and commanding.
DRIMMINOR. See Cokgakf.
DRIMMITERMON. See Dkummietermon.
DRIMODUNE, a bay, nearly 2 miles wide, receiv-
ing the Blackwater, on the south-west side of Arran.
DRIMREE, a locality in the valley of Barbreck,
in the parish of Craignish, Argyleshire, where tra-
dition reports a sanguinary battle to have been
fought between the Scots and the Danes, when the
latter were vanquished, and their leader Olaus was
slain. A number of rude monuments still exist at
tllC LHtlCG
DRIMYEONBEG, a bay of considerable extent,
with good holding ground, on the east side of the
island of Gigha, Argyleshire.
DRINLEAGH, a locality in the parish of Criech,
near Bonar-Bridge, Sutheriandshire, where a battle
was fought in the 11th or 12th century with the
Danes, who had just made an invasion, and were
driven back hence with great slaughter to their
ships. A remarkably large number of sepulchral
tumuli still exist at the place.
DRIP. See Teith (The).
DROCHIL CASTLE. See Newlands.
DROICH'S BURN, a brook flowing from the
south-east side of the hill of Caillievar, and running
in a deep narrow vale along the boundary between
parish of Alford and the parish of Leochel and
Cushnie, Aberdeenshire.
DROMORE, a station on the Portpatrick railway,
18| miles west-south-west of Castle- Douglas.
DRON, a parish on the south-east border of
Perthshire. It is bounded on the south-east by
Fifeshire, and on other sides by the parishes of
Arngask, Forgandenny, Dunbarnie, and Abemethy.
Its post town is the Bridge of Earn. Its northern
extremity is about a mile from the river Earn, and
5 miles from the city of Perth. Its length from
east to west, including a narrow strip of Dunbarnie
which intersects it, is between 3 and 4 miles; and
its breadth from north to south is about 3 miles.
The river Farg divides it from Fifeshire and Aber-
nethy. The southern district is a portion of the
Ochils, generally sheeted with verdure, and adorned
with strips or clumps of wood. The district thence
till near the northern boundary is a sort of sloping
plain, well cultivated and of beautiful appearance.
A tract in the extreme north is a ridge of small
elevation extending from east to west. The soil of
the low grounds is principally clay and loam.
About 2,600 acres are in cultivation, about 400 under
wood, and about 1,100 in pasture. There are four
principal landowners. The assessed property in 1843
was £4,300 8s.; in 1866, £4,438 Is. 2d. The principal
residences are Balmanno Castle and Gleneam House,
— the former a fine specimen of the old Scottish
castellated mansion. The part of the parish isolated
within Dunbarnie is called Ecclesiamagirdle. The
etymology of this name has defied the ingenuity
of antiquaries; but it probably bore some reference
to a small chapel which formerly stood in this part
of the parish, and of which some ruins, along with
a burial-ground, still remain. The only other relic
of antiquity in the parish is a remarkable rocking
stone on the south descent of the hill opposite the
church. This is a large mass of whinstone, of an
irregular figure, about 10 feet in length, and 7 in
DRONGAN.
399
DRUMLANRIG CASTLE.
breadth, and stands in a sloping direction. On
gently pressing the higher end with the finger, it
acquires a perceptible motion, vibrating in an arch
of between one and two inches, and the vibration
continues for some timo after the pressuro is re-
moved. " In that part of tho Ochils which fronts
the house of Ecclesiamagirdle," says the writer of
the Old Statistical Account, "a very singular phe-
nomenon took place about 7 years ago. After a
long series of rainy weather, the bill, about 100
paces from the summit, burst open with a loud ex-
plosion like thunder, which was heard at the dis-
tance of two miles across the valley. A violent and
rapid torrent, mixed with earth and stone and
broken rock, issued from the opening, and rushed
down with an impetuosity which swept all before it.
The inhabitants of some bouses which stood im-
mediately below, alarmed at once with the noise
and torrent, which directed its course full towards
them, were preparing to flee for their safety, when
happily the torrent deviated into a different tract,
and after continuing to flow for 10 or 12 hours, it
ceased, without having done any material injury,
and has remained quiet ever since." The parish is
traversed by the road from Perth to Edinburgh,
and lies within easy distance of both the Scottish
Central railway and the Perth fork of the North
British railway. Population in 1831, 464; in 1861,
376. Houses, 80.
This parish is in the presbytery of Perth, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £166 19s. 6d.; glebe, £9, with £4 10s. per
annum in lieu of coals. Schoolmaster's salary, £50,
with about £21 fees, and £14 other emoluments.
The church was built about the year 1826, and con-
tains 350 sittings. The schoolhouse is a handsome
modern building.
DRON. See Longforgan.
DRONACH. See Almond (The) and Methven.
DRONGAN, an estate, a collier village, and coal-
works in the parish of Stair, Ayrshire.
DRONGS, a stupendous rock near Hillswick in
Nortbmavcn. It is cleft in three places nearly to
tlie bottom, and when seen obscurely through a fog,
conveys the idea of a huge ship under sail.
DRONLY, a village in the parish of Auchter-
bonse, Forfarshire. It stands at the place where
Dronly and Aucbterhouse burns form Dighty water;
and it has a station on the Dundee and Newtyle
railway, 1 mile south-east of Aucbterhouse. Dronly
burn has a course of about 5 miles to this place,
chiefly fromwest to east ; and it drives a yarn wash-
ing mill a little above its confluence with the other
burn. Population of the village, 103. Houses, 21.
DROOPING CAVE. See Slaixs.
DRUIDHM (The). See Drhuim (The).
DRUIDIBEG (Loch), a lake of considerable size,
in the island of South Uist. It is situated a little
to the north of Heackle. Its effluence is a copious
stream, driving the principal mill on the island.
There are in the lake several islets, which are a
crowded resort of water-fowl, and were formerly
frequented bv deer.
DRUIE (The), a small affluent of the Spey, in
the parish of Duthill, Morayshire.
DRUM, or Dkom, a Celtic word signifying a
knoll, a ridge, or a small bill. It occurs frequently
by itself as a name of farms, estates, and other rural
places ; and is also a prefix in many names of seats
of population, or other prominent localities, which
were originally designated from some central or re-
markable knoll.
DRUM. See Kixeli.ar, Drumoak, Liberton,
and Kilsyth.
DRUM (Loch). See Banchory-Teexan.
DRUMACIIARGAN, ono of the picturesque,
eopse-clad, conical hills of the parish of Monivaird
and Strowan, Perthshire.
DRUMALBIN, the ancient name of the central
ranges of the Grampians, which seem to have been
erroneously regarded as one continuous backbone ol
Scotland.
DRUMALBIN, a hill in the parish of Carmichael,
Lanarkshire.
DRUMASHI. See Dores.
DRUMBEG. See Deymen.
DRUMBLADE, a parish, containing a post-office
station of its own name, in the north-west of Aber-
deenshire. It is bounded by Huntly, Forgue, Insch,
and Gartly; and is principally divided from these
parishes hy rivulets. Its length, from north to
south, is from 5 to 6, and its breadth, from east to
west, 4 to 5 miles. Its circumference is about 18
miles. Superficial area about 6,400 Scotch acres.
Its outline is triangular. Its ancient name was
Drumbla.it, which signifies ' Hills covered with
corn.' The surface is composed of small hills and
valleys. The soil of the latter is deep loam ; and
that of the higher ground is thin and gravelly, but
fertile. Some of the hills are covered with firs, but
most are arable. The valleys produce excellent
crops. About 5,000 acres are arable, about 400
under wood, and about 1,000 pastoral or waste.
The rental is about £6,730; half of which belongs
to the Duke of Richmond, while the rest is distri-
buted among four proprietors. There is abundance
of a very fine yellow-brown clay, called clay-marl,
and used as a manure : very little sand appears in
it. The district possesses large quantities of coarse
limestone, freestone — here called paisy-whin — and
moor-stone, with some slate. The fuel commonly
used is peat, turf, heath, &c. English coal is pro-
cured from Banff or Portsoy. The principal resi-
dence is Lessendrum. There are three tumuli; at
the largest of which, called Meet-hillock, near
Slioch, Bruce encamped, after having defeated Cum-
myn at Inverury. A small hill above this tumulus
is called Robin's height, and had on the top large
stones with inscriptions on them. The chief facili-
ties of marketing and communication are through
Huntly, which is 4 miles west of the parish church.
Population in 1831, 978; in 1861, 926. Houses,
158. Assessed property in 1860, £6,804.
This parish is in the presbytery of Turriff, and
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Earl of Kintore.
Stipend, £159 9s. 7d.; glebe, £16. Schoolmaster's
salary, £45, with about £26 10s. fees, and a share in
the Dick bequest. The parish church was built in
1778, and repaired in 1829, and contains about 550
sittings. There is a Free church: and the sum
raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £125 0s. lOd.
There is a parochial library. Two annual fairs were
formerly held in the parish ; but they have recently
fallen into almost total disuse.
DRUMBURN, a hamlet in the parish of New-
abbey, Kirkcudbrightshire.
DRUMCARRO. See Cameron.
DRUMCLOG. See Avondale.
DRUMCULTRAN. See Kirkgunzeon.
DRUMDERG, an abrupt prominent hill in the
parish of Loth, Sutherlandshire. At the foot of this
hill, in the glen of Loth, in the 16th century, oc-
curred a bloody conflict between the inhabitants of
Loth and the men of Strathnaver.
DRUMELLIE (Loch). See Lethendy.
DRUMGLOW. See Cleish.
DRUMGLYE. A village in the parish of Glam-
mis, Forfarshire. Population, about 120.
DRUMIN. See Inveravex.
DRUMLANRIG CASTLE, a magnificent seat
DEUMLANE1G.
400
DEUMMELZIEK.
of the Duke of Buccleuch, in the parish of Duris-
deer, Dumfries-shire. It stands on a knoll or ris-
ing-ground, on the right bank of the Nith, about 17
miles north-west of Dumfries, and 3J north-north-
west of Thornhill ; and, for several miles, forms an
arresting feature in a rich and remarkably varied
landscape, to the eye of a traveller passing along the
highway which traverses the picturesque vale of the
jS ith. The castle is a hollow square, four stories
high, surmounted with turrets at the angles, and
presents such an array of windows, that the pea-
santry of the vale fondly report them to be as numer-
ous as the days of the year. From the inner court,
staircases ascend at the angles in semicircular
towers. On the architraves of the windows and
doors is a profuse adorning of hearts and stars, the
arms of the Douglases. The castle fronts to the
north, and has also a noble appearance on the east,
combining, on' each side, the aspects of strength and
beauty, — the lineaments of a fortress and a mansion ;
and it is every night secured, not only by a thick
door of oak, but by a ponderous gate of iron.
Though more Gothic than Grecian, and marked
with considerable architectural defects, it is a noble
and imposing edifice ; and suggests ideas - of a
princely chieftain holding his court among depend-
ents and vassals. This great pile occupied ten years
in building, and was finished in 1689, the year after
tbe Revolution. William, first Duke of Queens-
berry — celebrated in civil history as a statesman,
and in the annals of the Covenanters as an abettor
of persecution — planned and completed it; and he
expended upon it such enormous sums of money,
and during the only night of his residing within its
walls, was so exacerbated by the inaccessibility of
medical advice to relieve him from a temporary fit
of illness, that he abandoned it in disgust, and after-
wards, in the unpolished language of the period,
wrote upon the artificers' bills for erecting it, —
"The deil pike out his een that looks herein!" A
portrait in the gallery — that of William III. — is, in
its wounds and defacement, a memorial of the
Highlanders having occupied the castle on their
march in 1745. Drumlanrig was the principal
residence of the family of Queensberry. But on the
death of Charles, the third Duke, in 1777, without
male issue, it passed, along with the Queensberry
titles, to William, Earl of March ; and upon the
death of the latter in 1810, it went by entail to the
Duke of Buccleuch. During both these periods,
and for years afterwards, it was little occupied,
greatly neglected and defaced. But the present
noble proprietor, after his majority in 1827,
adopted it as a residence, and brought the house
itself, and the beautiful grounds around it, into a
smiling and polished condition. Pennant says:
" The beauties of Drumlanrig are not confined to
the highest part of the grounds, the walks, for
a very considerable way by the sides of the Nith,
abound with most picturesque and various scenery.
Below the bridge the sides are prettily wooded, but
not remarkably lofty; above, the views become
wildly magnificent. The river runs through a deep
and rocky channel, bounded by vast wooded cliffs,
that rise suddenly from its margin ; and the pros-
pect down from the summit is of a terrific depth, in-
creased by the rolling of the black waters beneath.
Two views are particularly fine: one of quick re-
peated but extensive meanders amidst broken sharp-
pointed rocks, which often divide the river into
several channels, interrupted by short and foaming
rapids cokured with a moory taint; — the other is
of a long strait, narrowed by the sides, precipitous
and wooded, approaching each other equidistant,
horrible from the blackness and fury of the river,
and the fiery red and black colours of the rocks,
that have all the appearance of having sustained
a change by the rage of another element." The
Glasgow and South-western railway, a little north
of the Carron-Bridge station, traverses a stupend-
ous tunnel on the Drumlanrig grounds, 4,200 feet
in length, running nearly 200 feet under the surface,
with an archway measuring 27 feet by 29.
DRUMLEMBO, a village in the landward part
of the parish of Campbelton, Argyleshire. Popula-
tion, 462. Houses, 82. See Campbelton.
DRUMLITHIE, a post-office village in the par-
ish of Glenbervie, Kincardineshire. It stands on
the road from Auchinblae to Stonehaven, about a
mile east of Bervie Water, 6 miles south-west of
Stonehaven, and 7^ north-east by north of Lau-
rencekirk. It has a station on the Aberdeen rail-
way. Most of the inhabitants are weavers. Here
is an Episcopalian chapel. Population, 332.
Houses, 117.
DRUMLOCHAN BURN, a small tributary of
the Findhom, in the parish of Ardclach, Nairn-
shire.
DRUMMELLIE (Loch). See Lethendy.
DRUMMELZIER, a parish in Peebles-shire. It
contains a village of its own name ; but its post-office
is at Rachan-Mill, a little beyond its north-west
limit. It is bounded on the south-west by Lanark-
shire, and on other sides by the parishes of Glen-
holm, Stobo, Manor, Lyne, and Tweedsmuir. 'Its
length south-westward is 13J miles; and its breadth
varies from | of a mile to 5 miles. It stretches
from the mountain -ridge or water-line, which
divides Peebles-shire from Lanark, away north-
eastward into the centre of the county. Kingle
doors burn rises in the heights which divide the
two counties, and intersects a limb of the parish
over a distance of 4^ miles. There the Tweed,
having entered the parish from the south, flows
directly across, receiving the waters of this burn on
its way; and it thence forms the north-western
boundary-line over a distance of 9 miles. On the
other hand, the eastern or south-eastern boundary-
line is formed by a ridge of heights which separate
the local waters of Drummelzier from those of
Manor. The body of the parish is thus a slope or
acclivity of hills looking down upon the Tweed,_ and
terminating in the vale upon its banks. Its indi-
genous brooks, 7 in number, all rise toward the
east, and run down westward or north-westward
to pour their waters into the Tweed. But though
a hilly district, and forming a part of the southern
high-lands, the parish contains much arable land,
and is finely variegated with plantations and culti-
vated fields. The vale along the river is in general
narrow ; yet, in some places, it expands into beauti-
ful haughs; and, where the rivulets break down
from the heights, it opens into fine cleughs or glens.
This vale is the chief scene of culture, and the
principal seat of the population. The soil in the
haughs is rich alluvial loam; but elsewhere is, in
general, sharp and very stony. Limestone and slate
are found, but are not worked. Drummelzier castle
— formerly a.seat of the Tweedie family, and a link
in a chain of fortresses, now all in ruin, along the
banks of the Tweed — overlooks the river from a
beautiful site environed with plantation. There
are, in the parish, vestiges of a Roman road, and of
two old castles, — one of the latter 6 feet thick in the
walls, and held together by a cement as hard as
stone, yet so old, that no tradition remains of even
the period of its destruction. Upon a spot near the
junction of the Powsail rivulet with the Tweed, is
a tumulus, reported to be the grave of the famous
wizard, Merlin. It is said that Merlin predicted
DKUMMIETERMON.
401
DRUMOAK.
the union between the two kingdoms, and the pro-
phetic couplet was thought to have been of some
use in conciliating the prejudices of the people. It
I'uns nearly as follows: —
" When Tweed unci Poueail meet at Merlin's grave,
Scotland and England one king shall have."
Except a road along the Tweed, Drummelzier is
badly provided with facilities of communication.
There are five landowners. The yearly value of
raw produce was estimated in 1834 at £4,414.
The assessed property in I860 was £3,173. The
village of Drummelzier stands on the Powsail, a
quarter of a mile above its confluence with the
Tweed, and 8 miles east-south-east of Biggar.
Population, about SO. Population of the parish in
1831, 223; in 1861, 209. Houses, 35.
This parish, formerly a vicarage of the rectory of
Stobo, is in the presbytery of Peebles, and synod of
Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Trotter of Bal-
lendean. Stipend, £192 5s. 7d.; glebe, £18. School-
master's salary, £35, with £11 8s. lid. of other
emoluments. The present parish consists of the
original Drummelzier, and the southern and larger
part of the old parish of Dawick. At Kingledoors,
in the south-eastern part of Drummelzier, formerly
was a chapel, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, the early
evangelist of Tweedside; and, along with its ap-
purtenances, and the lands of Hopcarshire, it was
granted to the monks of Melrose.
DKUMMIETERMON, a long straggling village,
to the north of Letham, in the parish of Dunnichen,
Forfarshire. It is inhabited cbiefly by small farm-
ers, most of whom are also weavers. Population,
117. Houses, 28.
DRUMMOCHY, a village on tbe seaboard of the
parish of Largo, Fifeshire. Population, 156.
Houses, 22.
DRUMMOND, a village in the parish of Kil-
team, near the river Skiack, on the post-road from
Dingwall to Novar inn. It has two well attended
fairs, — one in June, and the other in December.
The parish - school is here. Population, 72.
Houses, 15.
DRUMMOND CASTLE, the ancient seat of the
noble family of Drummond, in the parish of Muthil,
Perthshire. That family was always ranked among
the most ancient and illustrious names of the Scot-
tish nation, and was distinguished by a long train of
worthy ancestors not less remarkable for the noble
alliances they made, and the dignities conferred on
them, than for personal merit. Sir Malcolm Drum-
mond flourished in the middle of the 12th century.
From him descended Sir John Drummond of Stob-
hall, who made a great figure in the reigns of James
III. and IV., and was concerned in most of the pub-
lic transactions of the time. He was raised to the
peerage by the title of Lord Drammond, January 14,
1487. His grandson James, 4th peer, was created
Earl of Perth, March 4, 1605. His great nephew,
James, 4th Earl, was successively Lord-justice-gen-
eral and Lord-chancellor of Scotland. On the ac-
cession of James II. of England, he was in great
favour with that monarch, and attempted to follow
him abroad after his abdication, but was taken, and
suffered four years' imprisonment. On his libera-
tion he followed his master, who created him Duke
of Perth, first lord of the bedchamber, knight of the
garter, &c. He died at St. Germains in May, 1716,
and was interred in the chapel of the Scottish college
at Paris. His eldest son James — by Lady Jane
Douglas — attached himself firmly to the House
of Stuart. He opposed the Union, and was very
active in the insurrection of 1715. His son James,
called Duke of Perth, imbibed all the principles of
his family, and joined the standard of the young
Pretender. At the battle of Preston he acted as
lieutenant-general; "and in spite of a very delicate
constitution," says Douglas, "he underwent the
greatest fatigues, and was the first on every oc-
casion of duty, where his head or his hands could
be of use; bold as a lion in the field, but ever
merciful in the hour of victory." After the battle
of Culloden had extirpated the hopes of the house
of Stuart, he embarked for France, but died on the
passage, May 13, 1746. Having died before the
limited time appointed by parliament for the sur-
rendering, he escaped the attainder; but it fell on
his brother and heir John, who was embarked in
the same cause, and whose estates and title were
forfeited to the Crown. The estate of Drummond
Castle, however, descended through a daughter of
Lord Perth to the family of Drummond- Burrell,
Barons Willoughby d'Eresby in the peerage of
England, and Barons Gwydyr in the peerage of
Great Britain, who continued to possess the estate.
But the earldom of Perth, together with the titles
subordinate to it, was restored by act of parliament
in 1853 to George Drummond, who was Due de
Melfort and Comte de Lussau in France.
Drummond Castle occupies a picturesque site in
the western part of Stratheam, about 2 miles south
of Crieff. It is interesting at once for its family as-
sociations, for the beauty of its grounds and views,
and for a visit made to it during two days, one of
them a Sabbath, in September 1842, by Queen Vic-
toria and Prince Albert. The oldest part of it,
generally called the Old Castle, was built in 1490,
destroyed by fire during the rebellion of 1745, partly
rebuilt about 1822, and put into good habitable con-
dition in 1842, preparatorily to the royal visit. The
modern castle stands a little east of the old, on the
same rock, forming two sides of a quadrangle, fac-
ing north and west. But it is a patchwork of various
dates, comparatively mean in architectural char-
acter, and looking more a baronial keep than a
noble mansion. A temporary wooden pavilion was
erected in the quadrangle to serve as a banquet-
ting hall during the royal visit. Contiguous to the
south side of the castle is one of the grandest
gardens in Europe. Nearly a mile to the east is a
fine sheet of water, studded with swans. A park
of two miles in diameter, with many a feature of
both natural beauty and artificial decoration, holds
the castle and garden nearly in its centre. The
massive hill of Torlum, covered with wood to the
summit, rises up on the west; the exquisite scenery
of Strathearn lies under the eye, and spreads away
to the east; and a sublime sweep of the Grampians
fills all the view to the north.
DRUMMOSSIE MOOR, a bleak, broad-backed,
sandstone ridge, with an elevation of about 800 or
900 feet above sea-level, along the east border of
the parishes of Inverness and Dores. The east end
of it forms the moor and battle-field of Culloden.
DRUMMUIR, a railway station in Banffshire, be-
tween Auchindachy and Dufftown.
DRUMNADROCHIT, a locality, with a post-
office and a large excellent inn, at the mouth of Glen-
Urquhart, near the north bank of Loch Ness, on the
road, from Inverness to Fort Augustus, Inverness-
shire. Fairs for cattle are held here on the Tues-
day in October before Beauly, and on the Tuesday
of November before Beauly.
DRUMNETERMONT. See Dkummietekmon.
DRUMOAK, a parish partly in Kincardineshire,
but chiefly in Aberdeenshire. Its centre is about
11 miles west-south-west of Aberdeen; and it has a
post-office of its own name. It is bounded by the
parishes of Echt, Peterculter, Durris, and Ban-
2 c
DRUMORE.
402
DEYBUEGH ABBEY.
chory-Temau. The burns of Gormae and Culter
divide it from Echt and Peterculter; and the river
Dee divides it from Durris. Its length eastward is
6 miles; and its average breadth is about 2. Its
surface rises to the height of about 500 feet above
sea-level at the summit of the hill of Dram, and
falls thence, with gentle undulations, on all sides to
the boundaries, except on the east, where there is
an abrupt ridge, called Ord hill, about 430 feet in
height. The south shoulder of Drum hill com-
mands an extensive magnificent prospect. Drum
loch covers a space of 84 acres, and is fringed with
wood. The soil of the parish exhibits much variety,
but is generally poor. About 4,270 acres are in
cultivation, about 12,700 are pastoral or waste, and
about 1,650 are under wood. There are four land-
owners. The mansions are Drum and Park, — the
former a large Elizabethan structure of the 17th
century, — and the latter a Grecian edifice of 1822.
The tower of Drum, situated adjacent to the house
of Dram, on the east side of the hill of Drum, is an
oblong pile of three stories, supposed to have been
built in the 12th century, when the forest of Drum
was a royal chase. There are in the parish two
saw-mills, three meal mills, and one carding mill.
The yearly value of raw produce was estimated in
1842 at £13,864. Assessed property in 1860, £4,075.
The parish enjoys ample facilities of communica-
tion by the Deeside railway and by the Aberdeen
and Braemar turnpike. Population of the whole
parish in 1831, 804; in 1861, 996. Houses, 195.
Population of the Aberdeenshire section in 1831,
642; in 1861, 761. Houses, 148.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, Irvine of
Drum. Stipend, £157 14s. Id.; glebe, £21 16s. 8d.
Schoolmaster's salary, £45, with £22 fees, a share
in the Dick bequest, and some other emoluments.
The parish church is a neat Gothic structure, erected
in 1836, and containing 630 sittings. There are
three non-parochial schools, and a parochial library.
DEUMOEE, a post-office village in the parish of
Kirkmaiden, Wigtonshire. It is situated on the
east coast of that parish, 5 miles north-north-west
of the Mull of Galloway; and has a small harbour
and an old castle. Three or four small sloops be-
long to it, and are engaged almost solely in export-
ing agricultural produce, and importing coals and
lime. Population, 429.
DEUMOEE, a small loch in the parish of Kirk-
michael, Ayrshire.
DEUMOEE. See Prestonpans and Kirkcud-
bright.
DEUMS, a village in the parish of Errol, Perth-
shire. Population, 73. Houses, 15.
DEUMSTUEDY-MOOE, a straggling village
in the parish of Monifieth, on the old road from
Dundee to Arbroath, Forfarshire. Eising immedi-
ately on the south of it is the far-seeing Laws-hill,
on the summit of which is a vitrified fort. Popula-
tion of the village, 176. Houses, 33.
DEUMVAICH, a hamlet in the parish of Kilma-
dock, Perthshire. Population, 49. Houses, 12.
DEYBEIDGE, a station on the Kilmarnock and
Ayr railway, between Gatehcad and Borassie,
Ayrshire.
'DEYBUEGH ABBEY, a superb monastic edifice,
now in rains, in the parish of Merton, Berwickshire.
It stands about 4 miles south-east of Melrose, on the
left bank of the Tweed, in the most delightful part
of the vale of that river, famed as it is for beauty
along its whole extent. The abbey, overgrown with
ivy, and adorned with flowers, stands amidst the
gloom of wood, on a verdant level, above high banks
of red earth which confine the course of the river,
whose rapid stream here makes a bold sweep around
the park and mains-farm of Dryburgh, in its pass-
age onwards. Mr. George Smith, architect, found
the rains so overgrown with the luxuriant foliage
that he had great difficulty in taking accurate
measurements of them. " Everywhere you behold
the usurpation of nature over art. In one roofless
apartment a fine spruce and holly are to be seen
flourishing in the rubbish ; in others, the walls are
completely covered with ivy; and, even on the top
of some of the arches, trees have sprang up to a
considerable growth, and these, clustering with the
aspiring pinnacles, add character to the Gothic pile.
These aged trees on the summit of the walls are the
surest records we have of the antiquity of its de-
struction." The structure was originally cruciform,
divided in the breadth into three parts by two co-
lonnaded arcades. The cross or transepts and choir
have all been short. A part of the north transept
which is still standing, called St. Mary's aisle, is a
beautiful specimen of early Gothic work. Perhaps
the most striking feature in the remains is a fine
Norman arch, which was originally the western
doorway. Its enrichments are in the style of the
12 th century, and little affected by time. The
monastery is a complete ruin. Nothing is entire
but the chapter-house, St. Modan's chapel, and the
adjoining passages. The chapter-house is 47 feet
long, 23 broad, and 20 in height. At the east end
there are five pointed windows; the western ex-
tremity contains a circular-headed centre-window,
with a smaller one on either side. The hall is adorn
ed with a row of intersected arches. Mr. Smith eon
eludes his description with the following remarks:
— " From a minute inspection of the rains we are
led to believe that there are portions of the work of
a much earlier date. The arch was the distinctive
feature of all structures of the middle ages, as the
column was of those of classic antiquity ; and among
these rains we observed no fewer than four distinct
styles of arches, — namely, the massive Eoman arch
with its square sides, the imposing deep-splayed
Saxon, the pillared and intersected Norman, and
last, the early English pointed arch. These differ
not only in design, but in the quality of the materials
and in the execution. The chapter -house and
abbot's parlour, with the contiguous domestic
dwellings of the monks, we consider of much great
antiquity than the church." [Monastic Annals of
Teviotdale, p. 323.1 — These structures were built of
a hard pinkish-coloured sandstone, and exhibit a
remarkable diversity in their levels. Near the ruins
still flourishes a fine tree which there is good reason
to suppose was planted seven centuries ago.
The late Earl of Buchan was devotedly attached
to this place. At a short distance from the abbey
he constructed in 1817 an elegant wire suspension-
bridge over the Tweed, 260 feet in length, and 4 feet
7 inches between the rails, which was recently blown
down. His Lordship also erected on his grounds
here an Ionic temple, with a statue of Apollo in
the inside, and a bust of the bard of ' The Seasons'
surmounting the dome. He also raised a colossal
statue of Sir William Wallace, on the summit of a
steep and thickly planted hill ; which was placed on
its pedestal September 22, 1814, the anniversary of
the victory at Stirling bridge, in 1297. " It occupies
so eminent a situation," says Mr. Chambers, " that
Wallace frowning towards England, is visible even
from Berwick, a distance of more than 30 miles."
The statue is 21 J feet high, and is formed of red
sandstone, painted white. It was designed by Mr.
John Smith, sculptor, from a supposed authentic
portrait, which was purchased in France by the
father of the late Sir Philip Ainslie of Pilton. The
1MYBURGH ABBEY.
403
DRYBURGH ABBEY.
hero is represented in the ancient Scottish dress and
armour, with a shield hanging from his left hand,
and leaning lightly on his spear with his right.
Upon a tablet below there is an appropriate in-
scription.
Sir Walter Scott, in the ' Minstrelsy of the Scot-
tish Border,' gives an interesting account of the
Nun of Dryburgh, — an unfortunate female wanderer,
who took up her abode, about ninety years ago, in a
vault amongst the ruins of this abbey, which during
the day she never quitted. It was supposed from an
account she gave of a spirit who used to arrange
her habitation, at night, during her absence in
search of food or charity at the residences of gentle-
men in the neighbourhood, that the vault was
haunted; and it is still, on this account, regarded
with terror by many among the lower orders. She
never could be prevailed upon to relate to her
friends the reason why she adopted so singular a
course of life. " But it was believed," says Sir
Walter, " that it was occasioned by a vow that,
during the absence of a man to whom she was
attached, she would never look upon the sun. Her
lover never returned. He fell during the civil war
of 1745-6, and she never more beheld the light of
day."
The late Earl of Buchan, we are told by Allan
Cunningham, waited upon Lady Scott in 1819, when
the illustrious author of Waverley was brought nigh
to the grave by a grievous illness, and begged her
to intercede with her husband to do him the honour
of being buried in Dryburgh. ' The place,' said the
Earl, ' is very beautiful, — just such a place as the
poet loves; and as he has a fine taste that way, he is
sure of being gratified with my offer.' Scott, it is
reported, good-humouredly promised to give Lord
Buchan the refusal, since he seemed so solicitous.
The peer himself, however, had made his tomb in
these ruins before the illustrious bard. The last
resting-place of Sir Walter Scott, is a small spot of
ground in an area formed by four pillars, in one of
the rained aisles which belonged to his family. The
ground originally belonged to the Halyburtons of
Merton, — an ancient and respectable baronial fa-
mily, of which Sir Walter's paternal grandmother
was a member, and of which Sir Walter himself was
the lineal representative. On a side wall is the fol-
lowing inscription : — " Sub hoc tumulo jacet Joannes
Haliburtonus, Barro de Mertoun, vir religione et
virtute Claras, qui obiit 17 die Augnsti, 1640." Be-
low this there is a coat-of-arms. On the back-wall
the latter history of the spot is expressed on a small
tablet, as follows: — "Hunc locum sepulturse D.
Seneschallus, Buchani comes, Gualtero, Thomas et
Boberto Scott, nepotibus Haliburtoni, concessit,
1791;" — that is to say, the Earl of Buchan granted
this place of sepulture in 1791, to Walter, Thomas,
and Robert Scott, descendants of the Laird of Haly-
burton. The persons indicated were the father and
uncles of Sir Walter Scott. The latter of these
uncles, however, and his own laay, were the only
members of his family buried there before him.
Lady Scott was buried there in 1826, Sir Walter
himself in 1832, and their son, Colonel Sir Walter
Scott, in 1847. The place looks oppressively sad,
intensely sepulchral, and is so small that the body
of " the mighty minstrel " required to be placed in
a direction north and south, instead' of the usual
fashion.
"So there, in solemn solitude,
111 tfiat sequester'd spot
Lies mingling; with its kindred clay
The dust of Walter Scott!
Ah where is now the flashing eve
That kindled up at Floddcn field.
That saw, in fancy, onsets fierce
And clashing spear and shield,—
The eager and untiring step,
That urged the search for hordcr lore
To make old Scotland's heroes known
On every peopled shore, —
The wondrous spell that sumtnon'd up
The charging squadrons fierce and ftut,
And garnished every cottage wall
With pictures of the past, —
The graphic pen that drew at once,
The traits alike so tridy shown
In Bertram's faithful pedagogue
And haughty Marmion, —
The hand that equally could paint,
And give to each proportion fair,
The stern, the wild Meg Mcrrilies,
And lovely Lady Clare, —
The glowing dreams of bright romance,
That teeming filled his ample brow,
Where is his daring chivalry,
Where are his visions now?
The open hand, the generous heart
That joyed to soothe a neighbour's pains?
Naught, naught, we see, save grass and weeds;
And solemn silence reigns.
The flashing eye is dimm'd for aye;
The stalwart limb is stiff and cold;
No longer pours his trumpet-note
To wake the jousts of old.
The generous heart, the open hand,
The ruddy cheek, the silver hair,
Are mouldering in the silent dust- -
All, all is lonely there!"
It has been conjectured, that the name Dryburgh
takes its derivation from the Celtic DaracJi-hruach,
— ' the bank of the grove of oaks.' Some vestiges
of Pagan worship have been found in the Bass hill,
— an eminence in its vicinity, — among which was
an instrument used for killing the victims in sacri-
fice. In the early part of the 6th century a
monastery was founded here by St. Modan ; but it
is supposed that after his death the community was
transferred to Melrose. Mr. Morton observes, that
it " was probably destroyed by the ferocious Saxon
invaders under Ida, the name-bearer, who landed on
the coast of Yorkshire, in 547, and after subduing
Northumberland, added this part of Scotland to his
dominions by his victory over the Scoto-Britons at
Cattraeth." Part of the original monastery is sup-
posed to remain in the sub-structure of the existing
ruins. The present structure was founded by Hugh
de Morville, Lord of Lauderdale, and Constable of
Scotland, about 1150. According to the Chronicle
of Melrose, Beatrix de Beauehamp, wife of De Mor-
ville, obtained a charter of confirmation for the new
foundation, from David I.; and the cemetery was
consecrated on St. Martin's day, 1150, "that no
demons might haunt it;" but the community did
not come to reside here until the 13th of December,
1152. The monks were Premonstratensians, from
Alnwick. Tradition says, that the English, under
Edward II., in their retreat in 1322, provoked by
the imprudent triumph of the monks in ringing the
church- bells at their departure, returned and burnt
the abbey in revenge. King Robert the Brace con-
tributed liberally towards its repair; but it has been
doubted whether it ever was fully restored to its
original' magnificence. Certain flagrant disorders,
which occurred here in the 14th century, drew down
the severe censure of Pope Gregory XI. upon the
inmates. Many of the abbots of Dryburgh were
persons of high rank and consequence. James
Stewart, who was abbot in 1545, occasionally ex-
changed the cowl for the helmet. Having'united
his retainers with those of some neighbouring
nobles, they boldly determined on making a raid
on the English border, and crossing the Tweed,
DEYTE.
404
DEYFESDALE.
burned the village of Homcliffe in Northumberland;
but the garrisons of Norham and Berwick attacked
and drove them across the border with considerable
loss, before they could effect much more damage. In
the same year Dry burgh abbey was destined again to
be laid in ruins ; being plundered and burnt by an
English force under the Earl of Hertford. The
market-town of Dryburgh had been previously de-
stroyed by the troops of Sir George Bowes. The
last head of this house — the lands and revenues of
which were annexed to the Crown in 1587 — was
David Erskine, natural son of Lord Erskine, who is
described as " ane exceeding modest, honest, and
shamefast man." The abbey and its demesnes were
granted by James VI. of Scotland to Henry Erskine,
Lord Cardross, second son of John, Earl of Mar,
the Lord-treasurer, and Mary, daughter of Esme
Stewart, Duke of Lennox, — the direct ancestor of
David Stewart Erskine, Earl of Buchan.
DBYBURN. See Innekwick.
DRYFE (The), a river in Annandale, Dumfries-
shire. It rises at the base of Loch Fell, on the
northern point of the parish of Huttou and Corrie;
flows due south down the centre of that parish for
nearly 6 miles; then bends suddenly round and
flows for about a mile eastward; and again debouch-
ing, takes permanently a south-western direction,
over a distance of 9 miles, through the lower part
of Hutton, the eastern wing of Applegarth, and the
north-western wing of Dryfesdale, when it falls into
the Annan. The stream has thus a total run of
about 16 miles. In the early part of its course it
flows through a hilly country clothed with verdure
and adorned with plantation ; but afterwards it tra-
verses a champaign country almost all under a rota-
tion of crops. In fair weather the stream is a mere
rivulet, clear and pure in its waters, and stored in
its pools with abundance of trout and a few salmon;
but in humid weather, it is subject to sudden and
impetuous floods, which come furiously down from
the uplands, lay waste cultivated fields, sweep away
produce and stock, and occasionally plough up, over
rich and loamy soil, a new channel for the river.
The Dryfe's impetuosity, or its property of 'driving'
all before it, is supposed to be alluded to in its
name.
DRYFE-SANDS. See Dryfesdale.
DRYFESDALE, a parish, containing the post-
town of Lockerby, in the centre of Annandale,
Dumfries-shire. The name is popularly pronounced
Drysdale. It is derived from the river Dryfe, and
was anciently applied to the entire basin of that
stream. The parish is bounded by Applegarth,
Hutton, Tundergarth, St. Mungo, Dalton, and
Lochmaben. It measures in extreme length, from
a bend of the Annan, opposite Dormount, on the
south, to the point where it is first touched by
Corrielaw burn, on the north-east, 7£ miles; and,
in extreme breadth, from a bend of the Annan, op-
posite Halleaths on the west, to the confluence of
Come water with Milk water on the east, 5 miles.
Its area is upwards of 11,000 acres. The north-
eastern division is an assemblage of verdant hills,
partly cultivated and partly in pasturage. The
highest elevation is White Woollen or White
Wooen; so called from its having formerly fed with
its fine pasturage large flocks of white sheep.
Though rising 1,500 feet above the level of the sea,
and somewhat acelivitous in ascent, it now nearly
all luxuriates beneath dresses of grain, and presents
to the eye of a lover of scenic beauty connected
with agricultural improvement, a picture which will
live long in his remembrance; and, in its turn, it
commands from its summit a view of other objects
so beautiful, so various, so far-spreading before the
eye, stretching away in a panorama of the pictur-
esque, that the tourist will feel attracted to it as a
kind of temple of taste. Standing on this hill, a
spectator sees spread at his feet "the richly-tinted
carpeting of the How of Annandale; he looks across
upon the brilliant landscape of Lower Nithsdale,
backed by the looming hills of Galloway; he ad-
mires the serried horizon, though a limited view,
toward the north; he sees along the diversified
scenery, now frowning and highland, and now smil-
ing and lowland, of Eskdale and the English border;
and he looks away over the sandy waste, or the
tumultuous and careering waters of the Solway
frith, to the Isle of Man and the Irish sea. Many
views are more magnificent and thrilling, but few-
live more soothingly and fondly in the imagination.
The other hills of Dryfesdale, for the most part, are,
like this chief one, cultivated and under a rotation
of crops. The western and southern parts of the
parish are in general flat and in a state of high
cultivation. Along the banks of the Dryfe and the
Annan, are tracts of rich holm-land, the depositions
of the streams from time immemorial, consisting of
deep loam, easy of culture, and luxuriantly fertile.
The other flat grounds are, in general, light and
dry, lying on a slaty and ragged rock or gravel ;
and, when properly cultivated, are abundantly pro-
ductive. The Annan forms the boundary-line for
about 6 J miles on the west and south ; the Milk, for
about 2 miles on the south-east ; and the Corrie, for
about 1J mile on the east; — and they all diversify
and enrich the landscape, and possess considerable
attractions to the angler. The Dryfe — which was
described in the preceding article — here terminates
its course, after traversing the parish over a distance
of 2A miles. The depositions which it makes, and
the stretch of level land which it occasionally deso-
lates with its floods before entering the Annan, are
called Dryfe-sands. This locality is memorable as
the scene of a sanguinary contest, on the 7th
December, 1593, between the Maxwells and the
Johnstones. The former, though much superior in
numbers, were routed and pursued; and lost, on the
field and in the retreat, about 700 men, including
Lord Maxwell, their commander. Many of those
who perished or were wounded in the retreat, were
cut down in the streets of Lockerby; and hence
the phrase, currently used in Annandale to denote
a severe wound, — "A Lockerby lick." On Dryfe-
sands, or the holm of Dryfe, about ^ a mile below the
old churchyard, are two veiy aged thom-trees,
called " Maxwell's Thorns," with a tumulus at
their base, which mark the scene of the slaughter-
ous onset. In 5 localities are vestiges of strong
towers; and in 8 places — chiefly eminences — are
remains of camps or forts, some square or Roman,
and others circular or British. The British camf
most in preservation is at Dryfesdale gate, and oc-
cupies about 2 acres of ground, and commands an
extensive view. The counterpart of this, is a
Roman one about J a mile to the east, where, about
the end of the first century, the army of Julius
Agricola, and the forces of Corbredus Galdus, King
of the Scots, met in warlike encounter. There are
plain traces of the great Roman road which traversed
Dryfesdale. and which here branched-off into two
great lines. The parish is intersected from north to
south by the Caledonian railway, and by the road
from Glasgow to London ; and it has a station on the
former at Lockerby. The yearly value of raw pro-
duce was estimated in 1836 at £17,550. Assessed
property in I860, £10,881. Population in 1831,
2,283 ; in 1861, 2,509. Houses, 462.
This parish is in the presbytery of Lochmaben,
and synod of Dumfries. Patron, the Crown.
DRYGRANGE.
405
DRYMEN.
Stipend, £165 10s. 9d. ; glebe, £25. Unappro-
priated teinds, £53 18s. 7d. Schoolmaster's salary,
now is £70, with £37 other emoluments. The
parish church, situated in Lockerby, was built in
1757, and contains 750 sittings. There is a Free
church in Lockerby, whose receipts in 1865
amounted to £241 9s. Id. There is also an United
Presbyterian church in Lockerby, with an attend-
ance of about 250. There are two F. church schools.
The church of Dryfesdale was anciently dedicated
to St. Cuthbert, and belonged, as a mensal church,
to the bishop of Glasgow. The upper part of the
parish, — then called Little Ilutton, to distinguish it
from the conterminous parish of Hutton on the
north — was a chapelry, having its own place of
worship at an extinct hamlet called Little ilutton.
There were also 2 other chapels, — one at Beck-
toun, and the other at Quaas. The former belonged
to the Knights Templars, and may still be traced in
the vestiges of ancient tombs in what formed its
burving-ground. Quaas chapel likewise has left
local memorials ; and contributed its font to serve as
the market-cross of Lockerby. The ancient par-
ochial church of Dryfesdale stood on Kirkhill, on
the south-east of the Dryfe. In 1670, both it and
part of the cemetery around it, were swept away,
and their site converted into a sand-bed, by one of
the Dryfe's impetuous inundations. Next year, a
new church was built near the former site, on what
was thought a more secure spot; yet even this was,
in a few years, so menaced by the encroachments of
the river, which tore away piece after piece of the
cemetery, that, along with its site, it was finally
abandoned. These disasters were regarded as the
verification of an old saying of Thomas the Rhymer,
which a less astute observer of the furiously de-
vastating power of the Dryfe than he might very
safely have uttered : —
"Let spades and shools do what they may,
Dryfe will have Drysdale kirk away."
The church of 1070, and even greater part of the
cemetery, have now wholly disappeared. A story
has long been current in Annandale, exhibiting an
instance of the washing away of the bodies of the
dead, — that a widower, after mourning for a reason-
able time the spouse whom he had interred in
Dryfesdale, wedded, on a wet and stormy day, a
second helpmate, and crossing the bridge at the
head of the bridal party, on their way homeward
from the marriage-ceremony, saw the coffin of his
deceased wife falling from "the scaur" into the
torrent, and gliding toward the spot on which he
stood. In what remains of the old cemetery, are
two conspicuous tombs or enclosed burying-plots, —
one of them that of the Johnstones, with their
coat-of-arms sculptured over the entrance. See
Lockerby.
DRYGRANGE, a locality where there is a bridge
across the Tweed, above the influx of the Leader,
on the road from St. Boswells to Lauder, on the
eastern verge of the parish of Melrose, Roxburgh-
shire. The view from the bridge is very fine.
Closely adjoining is Drygrange house.
DRYHOPE, an old fortalice in the parish of Yar-
row, Selkirkshire. It stands on a slight eminence,
on the rocky margin of a* streamlet, within a few
hundred yards of the efflux of the Yarrow from St.
Mary's Loch, 15 miles west-south-west of Selkirk.
It was one of the strongest towers in the ancient
Ettrick forest, second only to Newark ; and it com-
mands a finer and more extensive view than any
other, along the vale, the hill screens, and the lateral
glens of the~Yarrow, and over the Loch of the Lowes
away to the hills of Moffatdale. It is square, lofty,
and in good preservation, though roofless. It be-
longed some time to the Earls of Traquair, but it is
now the property of the Duke of Buccleuch. It
was the birthplace and home of Mary Scott, " tliu
Flower of Yarrow, " famous for her beauty, the sub-
ject of some affecting fictitious tales, and the heroino
of a tragical combat in which antagonist groups of
brothers, the one Scotts and the other Douglases,
were all either killed on the spot or mortally wounded.
DRYMEN, a parish, containing a post-office vil-
lage of its own name, in the west of Stirlingshire.
Its outline is nearly triangular. Its greatest length
from north to south is about 15 miles, and its greatest
breadth about 10. It is bounded on the north by
Perthshire, from which it is separated at various
points, by the waters of Duchray, Kelty, and Forth ;
on the south by the parish of Killearn and the shire
of Dumbarton ; on the west by the parish of Bu-
chanan, and by the Carter burn and the Endrick,
which separate it from Dumbartonshire; and on
the east by the parishes of Kippen, Balfron, and
Killearn. The greater portion of it is mountain and
moor, and not much is distinguished for fertility. A
large hilly tract in the north-west is almost entirely
covered with heath, and an immense moss occupies
the north-eastern angle. A tract of moorland like-
wise occupies all the south; but a picturesque por-
tion of Strathendrick, in a beautiful state of cultiva-
tion, lies across the centre. The extensive mosses,
which bear very unequivocal marks of a ligneous
origin, seem to prove that this part of Stirling-
shire was formerly almost entirely covered with
wood. In 1795 an alder tree in this parish measured
1 9i feet round the trunk ; and at the present day an
ash tree of an immense age in the churchyard mea-
sures 17 feet. The greater part of the uncultivated
grounds afford pasture to sheep and black cattle.
The bills on the west rise to the height of about
1,600 feet above sea-level; but the mosses in the
centre, even at the water-shed between the river-
system of the Forth and the river-system of the
Clyde, do not rise higher than 222 feet. See Ballat.
There is abundance of wood, especially in the vale
of the Endrick. The landowners are numerous.
The principal residence is Park. The assessed pro-
perty in 1843 was £10,032; and in 1860, £11,508.
There are in the parish three corn mills, and at Gart
ness a woollen mill. The parish is traversed by the
west road from Stirling to Dumbarton, and also is
traversed by the Forth and Clyde Junction railway.
On the farm of Finnich Tennant is a large sepul-
chral cairn, in the interior of which several stone-
coftins have been found ; and near the hill of Gart-
more, in the north-east district, is a Roman castellwm
in a fine state of preservation. It measures 50 paces
square within the trenches. The noble family of
Drnmmond derive their name from this parish,
having, it is said, obtained a grant of lands here so
early as the time of Malcolm Canmore, and made
Drymen their principal residence for 200 years before
the time of David II., when they removed to Perth-
shire. A tradition exists that John Napier, the in-
ventor of the logarithms, was born at the farm-house
of Drumbeg in this parish. Of the truth of this there
is some doubt. Part, however, of his patrimonial
inheritance lay here, and the house of Gartness on
the Endrick was a favourite residence of this illus-
trious person, and the scene of many of his profound
investigations. This parish, like others in the west-
ern part of Stirlingshire, was down to a late period
subject to the exaction of black-mail by the Mac-
gregors of Glengyle. Sir Walter Scott mentions
that on one occasion Rob Roy Macgregor summoned
all the heritors and farmers of the surrounding dis-
trict to meet him at the kirk of Drymen to pay this
DUART CASTLE.
406
DUDDINGSTON.
tribute. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,690; in
1861, 1,619 Houses, 301.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton,
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £272 7s. 43. ; glebe, £20. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50, with £25 fees. The parish church
stands near the village, and was built in 1771, and
contains about 400 sittings. There is in the village
an United Presbyterian church, which was built in
1819, and has an attendance of about 100. There
are two private schools, a school of industry, a
parochial library, and a savings' bank.
The Village of Drymen stands on the west road
from Stirling to Dumbarton, about a mile north of
the Endrick, and 5 miles west- south-west of Bal-
fron. It forms a good key-point for visiting some
of the fine scenery of the west of Stirlingshire, but
is not a seat of any considerable trade. The Duke
of Montrose's grounds of Buchanan House adorn
its western vicinity. The part of the vale of the
Endrick contiguous to it is very fine, and the bridge
which there takes the highway across that stream
is a handsome structure. The inhabitants of the
village, with the exception of the ordinary trades-
people, are chiefly rural labourers. Fairs used to
be held here almost every month; but now, in
consequence of the increased facilities for obtain-
ing commodities from Glasgow and other large mar-
kets, they are reduced to four in the year, chiefly
for the hiring of servants. The village has a post-
office under Glasgow, and a station on the Forth
and Clyde Junction railway. Population in 1861,
411. Houses, 86.
DEYSDALE. See Dryfesdale.
DUALT. See Killeaen.
DUART CASTLE, an ancient building, once the
castle of the chief of the Macleans, occupying the
brink of a high cliff which shoots out from the coast
of Mull into the sound opposite Oban. It is 4J miles
from the ferry of Achnacraig, and consists chiefly
of a large square tower, with walls of an immense
thickness. Two additional buildings of more recent
construction — one of which was occupied by a gar-
rison towards the end of last century — connected by
a high wall, form with the tower an oblong square
of about 120 by 72 feet.
DUB OF HASS. See Dalbeattie.
DUBB'S CAULDRON. See Wamphray.
DUBB'S WATER, the short stream which con-
veys the superfluenee of Kilbirnie loch to Lochwin-
noch loch, on the mutual border of Ayrshire and
Renfrewshire.
DUBBIESIDE, or Inverleven, a village in the
parish of Markinch, Fifeshire. It stands at the
mouth, and on the right bank of the river Leven,
and is connected by a suspension bridge over that
river with the town of Leven. Its inhabitants are
employed chiefly in the manufacture of coarse linen.
Here is an United Presbyterian church with an at-
tendance ofabout200. Population, 337.
DUBCAPON. See Dowally.
DUBFORD, a post-office station subordinate to
Banff.
BUBH (Loch). See Shtra (The).
DUBRACH. See Dee (The).
DUBTON JUNCTION, the station on the Aber-
deen railway at which the branch goes off to Mon-
trose.
DUCHALL (The), the southern head-stream of
the Gryfe, rising on Garvock hill, at the south-eastern
extremity of the parish of Innerkip, and flowing
eastward about 6 miles, chiefly within the parish of
Kilmalcolm, to a confluence with the northern head-
stream of the Gryfe, or Gryfe proper. The exten-
sive barony of Duchall, in the parish of Kilmalcolm,
was for many ages the chief property and place of
residence of the ancient family of Lyle, Lord Lyle,
which became extinct about 1556. Twelve years
before that date most part of it was sold by Lord
Lyle to John Porterneld of that ilk. The remains of
the strong and romantic castle of the barony stand
upon the confluence of the Duchall with another
rivulet. In 1710 a mansion-house was built about
a mile east from this. The present mansion-house
was built in 1768. It stands on the right bank of
the Gryfe, and is well sheltered with wood.
DUCHALL-LAW. See Paisley.
DUCHRAY. See Dowally.
DUCHRAY (The), one of the head-streams of the
river Forth. See Forth (The).
DUCRAIG, a small rocky island in the frith of
Forth, lying west of Rosyth Castle, in the parish of
Inverkeithing, but belonging to the parish of Dun-
fermline, Fifeshire.
DUDDINGSTON, a parish on the coast of Edin-
burghshire. It contains the post-town of Portobello,
the villages of Joppa, Easter Duddingston and
Wester Duddingston, and the hamlets of Dudding-
ston Mill, and Duddingston Salt-Pans. It is bounded
by the frith of Forth, and by the parishes of Inver-
esk, Liberton, Canongate, St. Cuthbert's, and South
Leith. Its outline is very irregular, and might have
been nearly a rectangle, but for a triangular elonga-
tion on its eastern side, and the attachment of a
westward strip to its south-west angle. On the
north, from the east base of Arthur's seat to the sea,
the parish is only 1J mile long; but on the south,
from Salisbury-green on the west to Magdalene-
bridge on the shore, it is 3| miles. In its central
part, over half its length, it is nearly 1J mile in
breadth ; but in the western strip it is only J of a
mile, and in the eastern angle diminishes from 1J
mile to a point. Nearly the whole of the parish is
dressed in the richest garb of cultivation. A fertile
soil, well-enclosed fields, a varied surface, the beau-
tiful demesne of the Marquis of Abercorn, and a
delightful intermixture of lawn and tillage, of water-
scenery, rows of plantation, and fences of shrubbery,
render it an attractive environ of the proud metro-
polis of Scotland. Pow burn and Braid burn enter
it on the south-west, and after forming a confluence,
diagonally intersect it, and diffuse in their progress
many beauties of mimic landscape. The united
stream is conducted through the pleasure-grounds
of the Marquis of Abercorn in an artificial canal, and
afterwards traverses a romantic little dell, and passes
on to pay its tiny tribute to the sea. Duddingston
loch, spread out at the south-east base of Arthur's
seat, and measuring about 1 J mile in circumference,
smiles joyously amid the opulent scenery around it,
and in winter allures crowds of skaters from the
neighbouring city to its glassy bosom. On the
north-eastern bank of the lake rises the fine Grecian
form of Duddingston-house, surrounded by gardens,
plantations, mimic temples, and various adornings
indicating united opulence and taste. A little emi-
nence, surmounted by the venerable-looking parish-
church, under the south cope of Arthur's seat and
overlooking the lake, commands a wide expanse of
beautiful and picturesque scenery. Overshadowed
by the bold precipices of the neighbouring moun-
tain, and shut out by it from every view of the mag-
nificent and crowded city at its further base, a spec-
tator feels himself sequestered from the busy scenes
which he knows to be in his vicinity, or he hears
their distant hum dying away on the breeze, and
disposing him to enjoy the delights of solitude; and
he looks south-east and south over a gorgeous
panorama of elegant villas, towering castles, rich
valleys, undulating hillocks, groves, ruins, and a
JDUDDINGSTON.
407
DUDDINGSTON.
filenteous variety of scenic tints and shading, till
lis vision is pent up by the Pentlands and Lammer-
moor, or glides away with the sinking sea into the
distant horizon. Many of the scenes and objects
within his view — such as Craigmillar castle — crowd
his mind with historical recollections; and others —
such as the peopled shores and the laden waters of the
frith — portray to him the enterprise and refinements
of a modern age. Whether in the seclusion and
loveliness of its own immediate attractions, or in
the exhibition it gives of the wide landscape around
it, softened and ruralized by the intervention of the
mountain-screen of Arthur's seat hiding Edinburgh
from the view, the little eminence of Duddingston
is captivating in its attractions, and draws to its
soothing retirement many a tasteful or studious
citizen of the metropolis to luxuriate in its pleasures.
The pedestrian approach to it from the city possesses
allurements of its own, to heighten the attractions
of the resort; leading by a pleasant path through
the Queen's park, and under the basaltic columns of
Samson's ribs, overhanging the tunnel of the Edin-
burgh and Dalkeith railway.
Though the parish, in its present state, is not ex-
celled in the loveliness and exuberance of cultivation
by any district in Scotland, and may compete with
the finest spots in the rich champaign of England,
it was, so late as 170 years ago, an unreclaimed
moor, covered with sand, and variegated only by the
rankest and most stunted shrubbery and weeds.
About the year 1688, the proprietor of the estate of
Prestonfield was Lord-provost of Edinburgh; and,
better acquainted than his contemporaries with the
fertilizing powers of city manure, he availed him-
self of ready and thankful permission, to enrich the
sterile soil of his property with the accumulations
of the yards and streets of the metropolis. So suc-
cessful was his policy that, arid and worthless as his
lands had been, they speedily became the first
which were enclosed in the vicinity of Edinburgh,
and are still esteemed the best grass pastures about
the city, or perhaps anywhere else in Scotland.
About the year 1751, the Earl of Abercom, proprie-
tor of the estate of Duddingston, compensated in
vigour what had been lost by delay, in imitating
the successful movements on the conterminous pro-
perty ; and having subdivided his estate into com-
modious farms, and enclosed and beautified it with
hedgerows and clumps of plantation, expended
£30,000 in rearing the architectural pile, and spread-
ing out the array of water-embellishments and land-
scape decorations, which preside in its centre. At
present very nearly two-thirds of the parochial area
is in cultivation; while all the rest is either in pas-
ture, meadow, or feu, or under wood or water. The
yearly value of raw produce, exclusive of mines and
manufactures, was estimated in 1843, at £10,252.
Assessed property in 1843, £21,896 6s. Sd.; in 1860,
£26,927.
Coal of excellent quality abounds in the parish,
and finds a ready market in the metropolis. The
strata of limestone and ironstone which run north-
eastward through Edinburghshire, traverse the
parish, and dip into the sea near its eastern ex-
tremity. Clay of so pure a kind has been found as
to be material for stoneware, and for crucibles capa-
ble of sustaining without injury a very high degree
of heat. On the coast, in the interstices of rocks
and stones, have been found curious and rare vege-
table petrifactions; some of them resembling the
finest Marseilles quilting, and others formed of reeds
and shrubs known to be indigenous only in tropical
countries. Small pieces of chalcedony and porphyry,
and large masses of agate, have been picked up on
the beach ; but may now, it is presumed, be vainly
sought for, after the peering searches of numerous
virtuosos of a former generation. Marl of different
kinds, of great richness and in much plenty, has
been found in Duddingston loch. Indigenous plants
of upwards of 400 species, exhibiting a curious and
interesting variety, allure the botanist to gratify
his taste, and admire the interminable displays of
creative skill and beneficence, round the banks of
the loch, and along the roots and skirts of Arthur's
seat. The Fishwives' causeway, forming the north-
east boundary of the parish, and once a part of the
great post-road to London, bears mark of consider-
able antiquity, and is supposed to be a remnant of
those regular roads, converging to Holyrood-house,
which Mary, of debated memory, patronised as a
means of soothing or of benefiting her turbulent sub-
jects. At the mouth of Duddingston burn, have
been found, buried in a deep stratum of clay, and
from bark to core as black as ebony, the trunks of
large oak trees, — remnants, it is supposed, of the
King's forest, in which the inmates of the monastery
of the Holy Cross had the privilege of nourishing
their hogs. The Figgetwhins, formerly a forest,
stretching over a considerable territory — sold in
1762 or 1763 for only £1,500— and now in part the
opulent and beautiful tract around Portobello, and
in part the site of that extensive and smiling suburb
of the metropolis, are said to have been a place of
shelter and of rendezvous to Sir William Wallace
and his copatriots, when they were preparing to at-
tack Berwick. Monteath, the secretary of Cardinal
Richelieu of France, David Malcolm, an essayist, a
celebrated linguist, and a member of the Anti-
quarian society about 1739, Pollock, professor of
divinity in Aberdeen, and John Thomson, a recent
landscape painter of no mean fame, were all minis-
ters of Duddingston. The parish is cut, through
its western wing, by the old Edinburgh and Dal-
keith railway, and is intersected from west to east
near the shore by the Leith branch of that railway,
and by the main trunk of the North British railway.
It is traversed also by the great road from Edin-
burgh to Berwick. Its principal manufactures are
glass, earthenware, bricks, hats, ironwork, paper,
and chemical preparations, chiefly in and near Por-
tobello. Population in 1831,3,862; in 1861, 5,159.
Houses, 822.
The village of Easter Duddingston stands in
the eastern angle of the parish, on a rising ground
near the sea, and consists of a few plain cottages
inhabited by labourers. Population, in 1831, 171;
in 1851, 163. Houses, 39. — Wester Duddingston,
situated on the north side of the loch, was once
populous, and contained 30 looms; but now, though
neat in appearance, and beautiful in situation, sur-
rounded by gardens and plantations, and so attrac ■
tive as to draw to its villa-like cottages summer-
residents from Edinburgh, is very small, and not in-
creasing. At the east end of it a house still stands in
which Prince Charles slept on the night before the
action at Prestonpans. This village is a station of
the Edinburgh county police. Population in 1831,
225; in 1851,167. Houses, 39.— Duddingston-Mill
is a joyous little hamlet, containing the parochial
school, and delightfully situated near the centre of
the parish, about £ a mile east of Wester Dudding-
ston. Near it is Cauvin's hospital, an edifice re-
sembling a large elegant villa, built in 1833, and
maintained, for the board and liberal education of 20
boys, by a munificent bequest of Louis Cauvin, a
Duddingston farmer. — Duddingston Salt-pans con-
sist of some straggling houses on the coast to the
eastward of Joppa.
The parish of Duddingston is in the presbytery of
Edinburgh, and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale.
DUFF-HOUSE.
408
DUFFUS.
Patvon, the Marquis of Abercorn. Stipend, £313
13s. lOd. ; glebe, £29. Unappropriated teinds, £53
7s. 5d. Schoolmaster's salary, £35, with about £12
fees. The parish church is a building of great an-
tiquity, with arches and ornaments of Saxon char-
acter. A beautiful semicircular arch divides the
choir from the chancel. The church was enlarged
and repaired about 25 years ago, and contains be-
tween 300 and 400 sittings. There are in Porto-
bello a quoad sacra parochial church, erected in
1810, enlarged in 1815, and containing 1,022 sit-
tings ; a Free church, with an attendance of 650,
and receipts of £1,002 14s. 3Jd. in 1865 ; an United
Presbyterian church, built about 28 years ago, with
an attendance of about 330; a Congregational
chapel, built in 1835, and containing 300 sittings;
an Episcopalian chapel, containing 504 sittings;
and a Roman Catholic chapel, built in 1826, and
containing 200 sittings. There are an endowed
school at Easter Duddingston, eleven unendowed
schools at Portobello, a parochial library at Wester
Duddingston, and various useful institutions at Por-
tobello. In the parish churchyard is an elegant
marble obelisk, to the memory of Patrick Haldane,
Esq. of Gleneagles. During the reign of William
the Lion the monks of Kelso acquired the church
and lands of Duddingston; and these being at an
inconvenient distance from their abbey, they ap-
pointed baron-bailies, and on advantageous terms to
tenants let the lands. In 1 630, the estate of Pres-
tonfield, now the property of Sir Robert Keith Dick,
Bart., was disjoined from the parish of St. Cuthbert.
DUDDINGSTON, Linlithgowshire. See Aber-
COKN.
DUFF-HOUSE, a seat of the Earl of Fife, in the
immediate neighbourhood of Banff, surrounded by a
noble park, said to be 14 miles in circumference. It
is a large quadrangular edifice, of massive proportions,
decorated with Corinthian pillars in front, and a
handsome balustrade on the top, terminated at each
corner by a square turret. Externally it is sprinkled
over with vases and statues ; internally — to borrow
a new-coined expression from a late lively tourist — it
is perfectly Louvrized with pictures, — chiefly por-
traits. There are the two mistresses of Louis XIV.,
Madame de Montaspar, and the Duchess de Valliere,
with the grand monarch himself; also Lady Castle-
main, and Lady Carlisle, Jane Shore, and Nell Gwyn,
with some others equally respectable, and forming
"a pretty set " in every sense of that equivocal term ;
also Queen Elizabeth and her beautiful victim Queen
Mary, and the youthful and accomplished Lady Jane
Grey; the Duchess of Richmond by Vandyke ; Mrs.
Abingdon by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; the late Duchess
of Gordon, "looking like majesty personified ; " Sir
Francis Knollys by Sir Godfrey Kneller ; the Admir-
able Crichton ; the Chevalier St. George when a
boy ; Colonel Gardiner ; and a whole host beside of
beauties, warriors, statesmen, nobles, and authors.
This splendid mansion stands near the middle of
an extensive plain, spreading on one side to the edge
of the Deveron, which here fills its channel without
cutting, and but rarely overflowing, its banks. The
wall of the park, upon its north- east side, sweeps
along the town of Banff; and the great gate, at the
distance of about half-a-mile from the house, opens
into the street. The windows of two sides com-
mand an approach from another quarter, where the
river quits the park, at the distance of half-a-mile
from the house. This approach opens straight along
a magnificent bridge of seven arches, upon the high-
way to Aberdeen ; the road into the town making
an easy sweep to the other hand, and passing by
the gate which leads from the end of the bridge to
the house. The town of Banff, with the shipping in
its port, and a wide prospect of the ocean, form the
verge of the landscape on the one side; upon the
other are the winding river, the broad extended green
vale, diversified by a variety of trees and shrubs in
serpentine stripes, or grouped together in spreading
groves ; while the distant acclivities, on either side,
are enriched to a great extent by cultivated fields
and sheltering plantations. Where the river enters
the park on the south side, it is contracted to the
breadth of a brook between hanging rocks, over
which is thrown a private bridge of one stately and
elegantly formed arch, having in one of the abut-
ments a chamber which commands a striking and
romantic view to either hand. A large enclosure,
stocked with a numerous herd of fallow deer, is con-
tained in a recess of the park. On that quarter of
the park which divides it from the town of Banff,
there is a considerable extent of garden, enclosed by
a wall, well covered with fruit trees, and a long range
of hot houses.
In the age, it is supposed, of Alexander III., a
convent of Carmelite friars had obtained possession
of the beautiful and fertile vale in which Duff-House
is now placed. A grant by Robert Bruce, dated at
Scone, August 1st, 1324, confirms this possession of
nearly 500 acres, for procuring bread, wine, and
wax, for the exercises of divine worship. The same
charter bestows a " chapel of the Virgin Mary near
the town of Banff," the situation, it is believed, of
the former church — where they had also several
cells — " with the benefice thereto appertaining, for
building achapel and the other houses of their order. "
The ruins of this establishment have been entirely
removed. In forming the modem arrangement of
the grounds about Duff-House, a very large um oi
stone, on a suitable pedestal, decorates a hillock in
the park, and preserves all the bones which were
turned up in the cemetery of these monks. The situa-
tion also of their chapel is now occupied by the
vaulted sepulchre of the family of Fife, on a green
mount overhanging the meadow upon the bank oi
the river. A plain undecorated fabric rises over the
vault, which contains the monuments of the ances-
tors of the family; and considerable ingenuity has
been exerted, and proportional cost expended, in pro-
viding for its long duration.
DUFF-KINNEL. See Kinnel (The).
DUFFTOWN, a post-office village in the parish
of Mortlach, Banffshire. It stands near Mortlach
church, and near the Fiddich rivulet, at the inter-
section of the road from Craigellachie to Cabrach
with the road from Keith to Tomantoul, 11 miles
south-west of Keith. It was founded in 1817. It
contains a jail on its square, and a small neat Roman
Catholic chapel. Fairs are held on the first Wed-
nesday of April, old style, on the Monday before
the first Tuesday of June, on the second Thursday
of July, on the third Thursday of August, and on the
Saturday before the second Tuesday of October, old
style. The village has a station on the Keith and
Craigellachie railway, an office of the Aberdeen
Bank, and an office of the North of Scotland Bank.
The circumjacent district is a rich mineral field, and
there are, in particular, extensive limestone works.
Population in 1861, 1,249.
DUFFUS, a parish on the coast of Morayshire
It contains the post-towns of Burgh-Head, Hopeman,
and New Duffus, the villages of Cummingston,
Roseisle, College, and Kaim, and the hamlets of
Kirktown, Buthill, Starwood, Old Roseisle, Inskiel,
and Unthank. It is bounded by the Moray frith,
and by the parishes of Drainie, Spynie, and Alves.
Its length eastward along the coast is 5 miles, and
its average breadth is about 3 miles. Its outline is
nearly that of a parallelogram. Except where ite
DUFFUS.
409
DUIRINISH.
taraeness is varied by plantations, and relieved by
the bill of Roseisle, a small eminence in its centre,
and by an artificial mount on which the ruins of
Duffus castle stand, the surface is a continued plain,
everywhere arable. Along the coast extends a level
tract, about J a mile in breadth, which was at one
time richly cultivated, but for many years became
covered with sand from the western shore. The
sand at length ceased to be blown thither, and the
land has been almost all restored to its former con-
dition. The soil in the eastern district is a deep
rich clay, capable of producing any sort of crop. It
resembles the Carse of Gowrie. The western con-
sists of a rich black earth, mixed here and there with
sand, but in general so excellent that the crops for
quality and increase cannot be surpassed in Scot-
land. The plain of Duffus, together with the ad-
joining land, has been called, perhaps more from
richness than from situation, "the Heart of Moray-
shire. " The mildness and geniality of the climate
are well known, but in so northern a latitude are very
surprising. There is little rain; and as there may
be said to be no hills, neither are there rivers or
brooks. The loch of Spynie, which, when full, ex-
tended into Duffus for upwards of a mile, has been
drained out of the bounds of this parish altogether;
and though the benefits anticipated from the draining
of it have not in general been realized, yet, so far as
Duffus is concerned, the project has been successful.
Duffus castle stood on the north-west shore of this
lake. A deep moat surrounded it with a parapet-
wall and drawbridge; and from the low-lying mar-
shy state of the ground, it must have been almost
encompassed with water. This castle must have
been of great antiquity. The walls are formed of
rude workmanship, being composed of rough stones
run together with lime, the whole forming a mass 5
feet thick. The rain, as it now appears, surrounded
with its clumps of aged trees, and standing in the
midst of a pleasant plain, presents at every point of
view, a picturesque and interesting appearance. In
the distance from the castle is the palace of Spynie,
now also dilapidated. Formerly the walls of both
these places must even have been washed by the
waters of the loch ; but now, since these have been
drained away, corn-fields and green pastures inter-
vene. The old castle is thought to have formed a
place of strength for the protection of the palace.
One of its earliest possessors, and perhaps its foun-
der, was Freskinus de Moravia, whose family became
conspicuous in Moray in the reign of David I. It
is not certain when this castle was dilapidated. The
coast of Duffus at the eastern end is rather bold,
rocky, and cavernous. There are freestone quarries
on the coast; while, inland, there is limestone which
is now burnt for manure, &c. At the western end,
the land is only elevated about 4 feet above sea-level.
At this extremity a small but rather conspicuous
promontory runs into the sea, forming the north-
eastern extremity of Burgh-head bay. See Burgh-
Head. Near Kaim, at this end of the parish, stood an
obelisk, conjectured to have been that erectednear the
village of Camus, in commemoration of the victory
obtained by Malcolm in Moray, over the Danes, un-
der their memorable leader Camus. There are six
principal landowners, and three of them (Sir Archi-
bald Dunbar, Baronet of Northfield, Stuart of Inver-
ugie, and Brander of Eoseislehaugh,) are resident.
The yearly value of raw produce was estimated
in 1835 at £21,806. Assessed property in 1860,
£12,074 odds. The village of New Duffus stands
on the Northfield estate, 5 miles north-west of Elgin.
It is remarkably neat, regular, and clean, and has a
square enclosed by four paved streets. The vil-
lagers were noted for their devotion to the house
of Stuart. Population of the village, 159. Houses.
54. Population of the parish in 1831, 2,308; in 1861,
3,308. Houses, 640.
This parish is in the presbytery of Elgin, and
synod of Moray. Patron, Sir Archibald Dunbar,
Bart. Stipend, £232 8s. 10d.; glebe, £18. Un-
appropriated teinds, £245 15s. lid. Schoolmaster's
salary, £52 10s., with fees, and a share in the Dick
bequest. The parish church, situated at New
Duffus, is an old plain building, repaired in 1782.
There is a Free church at Burgh Head : attendance,
720; receipts in 1865, £209 19s. 24d. There are also at
Burgh-Head a royal bounty chapel of the Establish-
ment, and an United Presbyterian church. There
is a small Episcopalian chapel near Kaim. There
are an Assembly school and six private schools.
Duffus gave the title of Baron in the peerage of
Scotland to a branch of the noble family of Suther-
land; but the title has been dormant since the death
of Benjamin the fifth lord in 1843.
DU1CH (Loch), an arm of the sea, deflecting
south-eastward from the head of Loch Alsh, and ex-
tending along the south-west side of the palish of
Kintail, in the south-west corner of Eoss-shire. Its
length is about 5 miles. Its screens consist of
mountains, rising right from its edge, sometimes in
bold rocky acclivities, and sometimes in gentle un-
dulating ascents, clothed with verdure, and varie-
gated with trees and rocks. Its head is wider than
its entrance, and leads to Glen-Leik and Glen-Shiel.
One of the mountain-summits overhanging it com-
mands a very extensive sublime prospect.
DUIRINISH, or Dueinish, a parish, containing
the post-office station of Dunvegan, and the village
of Stein, in the south-west of Skye, Inverness-shire.
It extends from the Grieshemish branch of Loch
Snizort on the north to Loch Bracadale on the south,
and is bounded on its landward or east side by the
parishes of Snizort and Bracadale. Its length is 19
miles; its breadth is 16 miles; its extent of coast-
line, measured along the sinuosities, irrespective of
islets, is about 80 miles; and its superficial area is
about 100 square miles. The ground about the
lochs, or arms of the sea — which ran far into the
country — descends in some places with a quick, and
in others with an easy slope towards the shore.
The promontories or headlands are usually rocks of
immense height, with a great depth of water near
them. The coast of the northern district is a con-
stant alternation of vertical cliffs and low shores,
very striking when first seen, but becoming tire-
some by its repetition. The shores and islets ot
Loch Follart, or Dunvegan Loch, borrowing some
effect from Dunvegan castle, and woven into curious
continuity by the intervening waters, form a grandly
picturesque landscape. The coast from Dunvegan
Head to Loch Bracadale consists principally of cliffs,
very various in height and slope, but many of them
lofty and almost vertical, and nearly all of such
composition as to present a remarkable striped ap-
pearance. Some isolated pyramidal masses of rock,
similar to the "stacks" of Caithness and Shetland,
stand off the coast, and figure wildly in the water,
— particularly three, called Maeleod's Maidens,
about 200 feet high, near Idrigil point. The north-
em district of the parish consists of the peninsula of
Vaternish, and constitutes the quoad sacra parish
of Halen. The rest of the interior may be con-
sidered as divided into three districts, — Glendale,
extending westwards from Skinnieden, near the
head of Dunvegan loch; Kilmuir, being the dis-
trict in which the parish-church is situated, includ-
ing the country between Dunvegan loch and Loch
Bay, extendmg southward; and Arnizort, extending
to tbe eastward of Kilmuir, and to the boundaries of
DUIRINISH.
410
DULL.
Snizort and Bracadale. The only considerable
mountains are two in the west, called Hallivails,
lesser and greater. The moors are, in most places,
deep and wet. The soil of the arable lands is partly
a light black loam, and partly of a reddish gravelly
appearance ; but, though mostly thin and stony, is
on the whole fertile. About 1,900 acres are at pre-
sent in cultivation ; about 3,000 more were formerly
cultivated, but are now in pasture ; and about 40,000
have always lain waste. Macleod of Macleod pos-
sesses about half of the parish; and eight other
landowners share the rest. The mansions are Dun-
vegan castle, Vaternish, Orbost, and Grieshernish.
See Dcnveoan. The assessed property in 1843
was £4,998 lis.; in 1860, £6,172. The principal
antiquities are fifteen Danish forts, several tumuli,
several subterranean hiding-places, and the walls
and souvenirs of Dunvegan castle. There are about
35 miles of turnpike road. Population in 1831,
4,765; in 1861, 4,775. Houses, 955.
This parish is in the presbytery of Skye, and
synod of Glenelg. Patron, Macleod of Macleod.
.Stipend, £158 6s. 7d.; glebe, £22 10s. School-
master's salary, £46, with £5 fees. The parish
church was built in 1832, and contains nearly 600
sittings. There is a government church in Vater-
nish. There is a Free church for Duirinish, witli an
attendance of 1,400 : receipts in 1865, £169 5s. 2id.
There are in this parish five Assembly's schools,
three Gaelic Society's schools, and two other
schools. An annual fair for black cattle is held at
Fairy-Bridge, 3 miles from Dunvegan.
DUIRINISH, or Duienish, an islet in Loch Etive,
opposite Bunawe, Argyleshire. It contains a dwell-
ing-house and some pasture, and is connected with
the mainland by a stone bulwark.
DUIENESS. See Durness.
DUKE'S BOWLING-GREEN. See Argyle'b
Bowling-Green.
DULCAPON. See Dowally.
DULL, an extensive parish in Perthshire. It
contains the village of Dull, the post-office village
of Amulree, and part of the post town of Aberfeldy.
It extends not less than 30 miles from north to
south, but is so intersected by other parishes as to
have a breadth varying from 12 miles to nothing.
Its area is about 210 square miles. It is bounded
by Blair- Athole, Moulin, Logierait, Little Dunkeld,
Fowlis- Wester, Crieff, Monzie, Kenmore, Weem,
and Fortingall. It comprises five distinct districts,
-the district of Appin, in which the parish-church
stands; the district of Grandtully, a peninsulated
portion in the south-east; the district of Amulree,
which is situated south from the rest of the parish,
and is completely isolated from it; the district of
Foss in the north-west; and the district of Fincastle
in the north-east. " The general aspect of the par-
ish," says the New Statistical Account, "is varied
and uneven. A series of hills, forming part of the
Grampian range, runs through its whole length and
breadth from south-west to north-east, diminishing
in height as they approach their eastern termina-
t.on. Between these hills lie the valleys or straths
3f Glenquaich, Appin, Foss, and Fincastle, each
strath having its own respective river, and its sides
interspersed with cultivated and in many places
wooded braes, waving downwards in rich luxuri-
ance to the plain below, or intersected by occa-
sional deep and romantic ravines." The scenery
comprehends every variety from the sublimely
beautiful to the softly bland. Appin is by far the
finest of the vales, and is continued down the Tay
into Grandtully. "The division of the Appin,"
says the Old Statistical Account, " is flat. Part of
the soil is thick, but by much the greater part is
thin and gravelly. It seems that the river Tay had
occasionally altered its bed, and consequently earned
away the earth and left much sand and gravel.
The grain is of an excellent quality; and, in general,
the harvest is as early as it is in Mid-Lothian."
The top of the rock of Dull, immediately behind the
manse, commands one of the most exquisite land-
scapes in the Highlands. The northern hill-screen
of Appin, dividing it from Foss, culminates on the
summit of Farragon, at an altitude of 2,535 feet
above sea-level, and commands thence an extensive
view among the Grampians. The still loftier
Schichalliok, [see that article,] is on the western
boundaiy. There are either within the parish or
on its boundaries no fewer than twenty-one lakes, —
the chief of which are Loch Tummel on the north
western boundary, Loch Fraochy in Glenquaich,
and Loch Ceannard in Grandtully. The river Tay
enters the parish two miles below Kenmore, and
runs along it for ten miles; the Lyon forms the
boundaiy - line with part of Weem; the Quaicb
traverses the Amulree district into Little Dunkeld;
the Tummel, throughout most of its grandly ro-
mantic course, flows partly along the northern
boundary and partly across the interior; and the
Garry runs across two wings of the parish, one
of them a little below the pass of Killiecrankie.
On these streams or on their tributaries, either
while bounding Dull or within it, occur some of the
most picturesque water-falls in Scotland, particularly
those of Keltnie, Camserny, Tummel, and Moness.
The parochial area, according to the New Statistical
Account, comprises 8,500 imperial acres under cul-
tivation or occasionally in tillage, 9,000 in pasture,
1,000 in meadow, 3,000 under wood, 108,900 of
moor and hill, and 4,000 of water and roads. The
principal landowners are Sir Robert Menzies, Bart.,
Sir W. D. Stewart, Bart., and the Marquis of Bread-
albane; and there are at least twelve others. The
real rental is about £15,640. The yearly value of
raw produce was estimated in 1842 at £60,913 3s.
4d. Assessed property in 1866, £16,754 9s. 3d.
The principal mansions are Grandtully, Foss, Cluny,
Moness, and Derculich. There are at Camsemy a
carpet manufactory, at Aberfeldy a dye-mill, and
in other places a saw-mill and a wheel-wright mill.
Limestone is worked at Tomphobuil; and a bluish
building stone is quarried at the Aird of Appin.
The principal antiquities are a Dmidical circle at
Croftmoraig, and several standing-stones, moats,
barrows, and Pictish forts in various places. The
village of Dull stands in the vale of Appin, 19 miles
from Dunkeld, 26 from Crieff, and 34 from Perth.
In the centre of it, in an old, large, round, stone
socket, stands an ancient, tall, weather -worn
market-cross, which belonged to a monastic edifice
now quite extinct. The monastery was of a peculiar
character, called an abthanery, only two other
specimens of which existed in Scotland; and it con-
ferred on the village a right of sanctuary similar to
that of Holyrood. Population of the village, 145.
Houses, 44. Population of the parish in 1831,
4,590; in 1861,2,945. Houses, 591. The decrease
of population has arisen from the enlargement of
farms and from emigration.
This parish is in the presbytery of Weem, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £257 18s. 10d., with manse and glebe.
Unappropriated teinds, £70 18s. Schoolmaster's
salary, now is £50, with £14 fees and £7 other
emoluments. The parish church stands at the vil-
lage of Dull, and is a building of unknown date,
thoroughly repaired in 1840, and containing about
600 sittings. The district of Foss forms a quoad
sacra palish, and has its own parish church. The
DULNAN.
411
DUMBARTON.
•district of Fincastlc is annexed quoad sacra to the
parish of Tenandvy. There are chapels of the Eoyal
Bounty at Anmlree and Grandtully. There is a
Free church at Aberfeldy, with an attendance of
400: receipts in 1865, £294 lis. Id. There is also
a Free church at Tummel-Bridge, on the western
verge of the parish : receipts in 1865, £79 5s. 5d.
There is a Free church preaching-station at Amulree,
whose receipts in 1865 were £15 12s. 8Jd. There are
at Aberfeldy an Independent chapel, with an attend-
ance of 180, and a Baptist chapel with an attend-
ance of 80. There are in the parish four Society's
schools, five other non-parochial schools, two public
libraries, three friendly societies, and a savings'
bank. Fairs are held at Aberfeldy, Amulree,
Coshieville, Tummel-Bridge, and Kirkton of Foss.
See the articles Aberfeldy, Amulree, Foss, Grand-
tully, and Tenandry.
DULLARG. See Parton.
DULLATEE. See Kilsyth.
DULNAN (The), a river of Inverness-shire and
Morayshire. It rises on the south side of the upper
part of the Monadieagh mountains, and runs about
25 miles north-eastward, through eastern Badenoch
and the Duthil district of Morayshire, to a conflu-
ence with the Spey at Bellentomb of Inverallan.
It has generally a small volume, yet is very rapid ;
and when swollen with rains or with melted snows,
it often does much damage to the corn-lands on its
banks.
DULNAN-BRIDGE, a post-office hamlet in the
parish of Duthil, Morayshire. The bridge across
the Dulnan here is a substantial one built in 1791.
DULSIE-BRIDGE, a romantic bridge spanning
a narrow chasm through which the Findhom rushes,
in an arch of 46 feet, with a smaller subsidiary one,
at a point of the river 12 miles from Freebum, and
2 from Furness inn, Nairnshire. It is on the line
of the old military road from Fort-George through
Strathspey and Braemar. The scenery at the bridge
is most wildly picturesque, with softening features
from wood. See Ardclach.
DUM-, a prefix in many names of Latin and
Celtic origin. See Dun-.
DUMBARNIE. See Dunearnie.
DUMBARTON, a parish containing a royal burgh
of its own name, in Dumbartonshire. It is bounded
over a brief distance on the south-west by the
Gyde, over 2J miles on the north-east by Stirling-
shire, and everywhere else by the parishes of Car-
dross, Bonhill, and West Kilpatrick. Its length
north-eastward is between 7 and 8 miles; its
breadth is between 3 and 4 miles; and its area is
about 8,155 English acres. The river Leven, down
to its influx into the Clyde, traces the boundary
with Cardross. Dumbarton Castle rock — which we
shall afterwards describe in connexion with the
town — forms a grandly picturesque object, near the
point of the peninsula between the rivers. The
land, for some distance round it, and away behind
the town, is low and flat, presenting all the charac-
ters of recent alluvium. The tract immediately con-
tiguous to the rock, indeed, is so low as to he entirely
covered by some of the spring tides of winter. But
the surface somewhat inland rises into the commenc-
ing rough acclivities of the Lennox hills, and towards
the north-east becomes wildly moorish. The soil
of the parish varies from deep to shallow, from clay
to gravel, from fertile loam to barren rock ; but in
general throughout the low tracts is more or less
good. Limestone abounds at Murroch glen, between
2 and 3 miles from the town ; and sandstone is found
on the moors ; and an excellent white sandstone is
quarried at Dalreoch, near the burgh, but within
Cardross. The real rental of the parish is about
£17,500. Several printfields are situated on the Leven,
and various kinds of manufactures are carried on at
the town. The parish is traversed by the Dumbar-
tonshire railway. Population in 1831, 3,623; in
1861, 6,304. Houses, 463. Assessed property in
1843, £10,810 7s. 0d.; in 1860, £25,699.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Town-
council of Dumbarton. Stipend, £233 6s. 2d., with
a manse. The parish church was built in 1810, and
contains 1,265 sittings. There is a Free church in
the town, whose receipts in 1865 amounted to £1,482
9s. lOd. There is an United Presbyterian church,
which was built in 1826, and contains 489 sittings.
There are also an Episcopalian chapel, a Methodist
chapel, and a Roman Catholic chapel. There are a
burgh school with two masters, a Free church school,
an Educational Society's school, and several other
schools. A gateway, called College Bow, belonging
to an ancient edifice on the site of a Culdee cell, was
removed at the forming of the railway to a site in
front of the burgh school. The name Dumbarton
used to be written Dunbarton and Dunbriton,
and is of disputed origin. Dunbarton, according to
Chalmers, signifies ' the town of the Castle ' on the
summit; but the more common orthography at an
early period seems to have been Dunbriton, which
would signify 'the fort or castle of the Britons.'
Both names are correctly descriptive, the one of the
physical features, the other of the historical cha-
racter of the place. In writing Dumbarton, we have
given way to the prevailing though probably incor-
rect orthography.
Dumbarton, a post-town, a market-town, a sea-
port, a royal burgh, and the capital of Dumbarton-
shire, stands on the left bank of the Leven, about a
mile above its influx to the Clyde, 3J miles south o(
Alexandria, 5J by water east-north-east of Port-
Glasgow, 8 south-east by east of Helensburgh, and
14J north-west by west of Glasgow. Its principal
street, called High-street, forms a kind of semi-
circle, nearly concentric with the course of the river,
and situated at a short distance from the water edge.
This street is intersected by the Cross-vennel and
various other smaller streets. A suburb, called
Bridgend, stands on the right bank of the river,
within the parish of Cardross, opposite the upper
part of the town, and is connected with it by a good
stone bridge of five arches, built about the middle of
last century. Another suburb, of recent origin,
called Dennyston, is also there. The parish church,
with a tolerably good steeple, stands on the opposite
outskirts toward the east. The burgh hall was built
in 1865, at a cost of about £7,000, and is an edifice in
the French Gothic style, with a frontage of 133
feet, and a central tower 145 feet high. The
town altogether has an irregular alignment and a
plain appearance, displaying some features of taste,
indeed, but very far from showy ; and, in consequence
of standing on a low dead level, it neither forms nor
commands any picturesque view. Even the castle
on the one hand or the screens of the vale of Leven
on the other, do not blend with the town into any
good landscape. And the town itself, seen from the
Clyde or from any of the southern approaches, looks
only a huddled mass of squatting houses, chequered
in front by the timbers of ship-yards, and overtopped
in the middle by the tall chimnies and the church-
steeple. The Dumbartonshire railway has added
somewhat to its features, but much more to its bustle.
Very extensive glassworks were long in operation
in Dumbarton, having three brick cones which made
a prominent figure in the town's appearance. These
works were a chief means of the town's trade, and
sometimes employed so many as 300 workmen, he-
DUMBARTON.
412
DUMBARTON.
sides giving indirect employment in a commercial
way; but they underwent great fluctuations; and
after the abolition of the duty on glass, they finally
declined, and were eventually abandoned. The
premises were then sold ; and where the cones once
stood there is now a ship-building yard, fronted by
an excellent street of dwelling-houses. In the time
of the glassworks shipbuilding became considerable,
and was carried on in two building-yards; the ves-
sels built being entirely of wood. But about the
year 1845, the trade of iron ship-building was intro-
duced by the Messrs. Denny; and this has so ex-
tended that there are five building-yards, giving
employment to at least 2,000 men; and some of the
largest and most splendid of the British transit and
mercantile navy have been sent out from Dumbar-
ton. The growth of this branch of trade has cre-
ated others. There are now two engine-works, two
founderies, and a forge of very great extent. These
works give employment to more than 500 opera-
tives. There is also a most active rope-work. Some
trade likewise is carried on in tanning and brick-
making. Nor is the town of small importance
as a general depot of retail traffic, and of mis-
cellaneous supply to the populous tracts of Car-
dross and the vale of Leven. The river is na-
vigable to the quay by large vessels only near
high water of the highest tides. Steam-vessels of
small draught, suited to the capacities of the Leven,
formerly did large business, making several trips
for general connexion with the Clyde every day.
The railway, however, has curtailed that business,
and is now a chief vehicle of traffic, — particularly
for the shoals of tourists who are daily in transit to
visit the scenery of Loch Lomond. Steam-boats still
ply to Glasgow and Greenock. The town has two
large inns, offices of the Commercial Bank and the
Union Bank, sixteen insurance offices, a gas-light
company, water-works, a mechanics' institution, a
combination poor-house, an agricultural society, and
a horticultural society. A weekly market is held on
Tuesday, and six fairs in the year. Two weekly
newspapers are published, the Dumbarton Herald on
Thursday, and the Lennox Herald on Saturday.
In 1222 Dumbarton was erected by Alexander II.
into a free royal burgh with extensive privileges.
Additional charters were granted by succeeding
monarchs, all of which were confirmed by James
VI. in 1609, and ratified by parliament in 1612. The
governing charter grants or confirms to the burgh
considerable property in land and extensive fishings
in the Leven and Clyde. It gives the town right
to a free port, in the same manner as Edinburgh
has in Leith ; and conveys a right to levy customs
and dues on all ships navigating the Clyde between
the mouth of the Kelvin water, 3 miles below Glas-
gow, and the head of Loch Long. This right ap-
pears to have been veiy valuable. According to a
statement published by a committee of the burgesses
of Dumbarton, in 1829, although the space affected
by it excluded Glasgow, it comprehended Greenock,
and the ground on which the town and harbour of
Port -Glasgow were subsequently formed. Every
vessel, whether foreign or native, coming within
these limits, was bound to go to, pay duties at, and
take clearances from Dumbarton ; and no merchants
could carry tlieir effects to any other harbour — either
then existing or to be afterwards made within these
limits — in defraud or evasion of the lucrative right
thus vested in Dumbarton. The right also gave
rise to a claim styled the "offers dues," which was
levied without opposition from all foreign vessels
coming into Clyde. A contract entered into between
Glasgow and Dumbarton, in 1700, describes this as
" obliging strangers to make the first offer of the goods
and merchandise imported by them into the Clyde,
to the burghs of Glasgow and Dumbarton, at such
expense and rate as the strangers, offerers, shall not
have the power or liberty to undersell the same to
others. " But as these privileges were claimed by
Glasgow as well as by Dumbarton, perpetual disputes
respecting them occurred between the two burghs dur-
ing the 17th century. These were finally terminated
in 1700 by a contract, in which the town-council
of Dumbarton sold to the town-council and com-
munity of Glasgow the dues payable to the burgh
of Dumbarton by all ships coming into the Clyde,
of which the freemen of Dumbarton were not owners,
and also their share of the "offers dues," — the town
of Glasgow paid to Dumbarton the sum of 4,500
merks, about £260 sterling, — and the burghs agreed
that the vessels belonging to the burgesses, inhabi-
tants of Glasgow and Port-Glasgow, should not pay
duties in the harbour of Dumbarton, and that, on
the other hand, the vessels of Dumbarton burgesses
should be exempted from duties in the harbours of
Glasgow and Port-Glasgow. This contract was
ratified by the convention of burghs and the Scottish
parliament, in 1701. But the navigation having
afterwards, by various acts of parliament, been put
under the management of trustees, the rights thus
transferred to Glasgow became vested in this parlia-
mentary trust. These trustees made an attempt, in
1825, to abrogate the right of exemption from river-
dues belonging to Dumbarton — an exemption which
had then become of considerable value, owing to the
high rates levied by the trustees, and the improve-
ment in the navigation of the river. They were,
however, defeated in parliament, and the rights of
Dumbarton formally recognised, under a slight mo-
dification intended merely to guard against frauds.
A similar attempt was again made in 1830, but a
committee of appeal threw the bill out, as in breach
of a solemn bargain between the parties. The trus-
tees proposed in committee to give a sum of £16,000
to Dumbarton as the price of its exemption, besides
saving the rights, for their own lives, of persons then
burgesses of Dumbarton.
The burgh of Dumbarton is governed by a provost,
3 bailies, a treasurer, and 1 1 councillors. The ma-
gistrates exercise the usual civil and criminal juris-
diction belonging to royal burghs. The town-clerk
acts as their assessor. The burgh-courts are held
weekly. The magistrates have cognizance of certain
trifling cases familiarly known in the burgh by the
name of " Causeway complaints." There is also a
dean-of-guild court, which exercises the usual juris-
diction of such courts, such as lining marches, judg-
ing of the sufficiency of buildings, and checking
weights and measures. The magistrates and coun-
cil appoint the town clerk, collector of town's reve-
nues, collector of assessed taxes, master of public
works, gaoler, town-officer, and town-drummer.
The magistrates alone appoint the burgh-fiscal.
The old corporations were six in number, — guildry,
hammermen, shoemakers, tailors, coopers, and wea-
vers. The town has a small police-establishment,
but .is not watched. The cleansing and lighting of
the streets, and supplying water, are under the direc-
tion of the magistrates. Before the passing of the
municipal reform act, the abuses arising from the
mismanagement of the burgh funds were very con-
siderable. The debt of the town amounted to £ 1 9, 1 08
10s. l£d. The total property of the burgh was
stated, in 1832, at £17,910; but this was suspected
to bean over-estimate, as, in 1819, it had been valued
at only £10,658. This property consistedprincipally
of the town's moor, the wauk-mill lands, the broad
meadow, the Leven and Clyde fishings, and the har-
bour. The moor consists of about 4,000 acres, upon
^
DUMBARTON.
413
DUMBARTON,
which all tho burgesses had the free right of pas-
turage. But it became the subject of a most ex-
pensive lawsuit which lasted about half-a-century,
terminating only about 14 years ago; and it was
afterwards sold, and is now the property of H. S.
Gum, Esq. of Strathleven. The revenue from the
fishings is about £150 a-year, and that from tho
harbour dues nearly £805. The total revenue in 18135
was £1,391. Dumbarton formerly joined with Glas-
gow, Renfrew, and Eutherglen in sending a member
to parliament. It now joins with Kilmarnock, Port-
Glasgow, Renfrew, and Ruthcrglen. Municipal con-
stituency in 1865,309; parliamentary constituency,
309. Population in 1841, 3,754; in 1861, 6,096.
Houses, 430.
Dumbarton was anciently called Aleluid or Al-
cluyth, that is, 'the Rock upon tho Clyde;' and
under this appellation it was, in tho time of
the Venerable Bede, the capital of the kingdom o
Strnthclyde. Before that time, however, the site
was occupied as a Roman naval station, under the
name of Theodosia; and it appears not improbable
that the rock was occupied by a Roman fort, and
that the wall of Antoninus terminated at this point.
Dumbarton was at a much later period the chief
town of the Earldom of Lennox. About the begin-
ing of the 13th century, it was resigned by Earl
Maldwyn into the hands of Alexander II., who, as
we have already seen, erected it into a royal
burgh. The town seems to have shared much less
than might have been expected in the political con-
vulsions which shook the kingdom, or in the strifes
of war which frequently burst upon its own castle ;
yet it was several times severely injured by fire
during the castle's sieges. Both James IV. and
James V. used it as a naval station ; and the former
monarch made several of his expeditions from it to
Tarbert in Kintyre, to the Western islands, and
elsewhere. From Dumbarton also, without doubt,
the small Scottish navy sailed — under the wretched
conduct of the Earl of Arran — against England,
shortly before the battle of Flodden. The town also
makes a great figure in record for injuries done to
it by floods. " Anno MCCCXXXII1I.," writes Sir
William Sinclair of Eoslin, " on martenss day in
winter began ye great frost yat lestit quhill
Sancte Juliane ye virgines day the XVI day of
februar and yan it lowsit mervaluslie on yat Sanctis
day and syne freshit againe sa fast yatcommoun
passagis wes ouir ye watter of Levin fra ye toun of
Dunbartane to Cardross and yat was never seen
nor heard befoir." So frequent and damaging were
the floods about the beginning of the 17th century
that the magistrates then felt obliged to apply to
parliament for national pecuniary means to con-
struct works against them. A commission was
appointed to inquire what amount of means would
be necessary; and they reported that "na less nor
the sowme of threttie thousand poitndis Scottis
money was abill to beir oitt and fumeis the necessar
charges and expenses in pfenning these warkis
that are liable to saif the said burgh from utter
destructioune." A grant of twenty-five thousand
merks Scots was accordingly made for the purpose
by the parliament; and, this proving insufficient,
a farther sum of twelve thousand merks was after-
wards granted by King James. — Dumbarton, for a
brief period, gave the title of Earl in the peerage of
Scotland, to a branch of the family of Douglas, who
were created Earl of Dumbarton and Baron Douglas
of Ettrick in the year 1675; but this peerage be-
came extinct at the death of George, the second
Earl.
Dumbarton Castle stands near the extremity of
the peninsula between the Clyde and the Leven. I
The rock appears to the eye to overhang both rivers,
murally and stupendously, for some distance above
the point of their confluence. It measures about
260 feet in elevation, and about a mile in circum-
ference. It figures prominently, as well as vei-y
picturesquely, in most of the thousand good views
of the brilliant scenery of the upper lagoon of tho
frith of Clyde. It is an erupted trappean mass, o(
the same character as Ailsa Craig, the Bass, Stir-
ling Castle rock, Abbey-craig, and many other
single, sharp-featured, romantic heights which start
abruptly from the seas and plains of Scotland. It
rises sheer up from the circumjacent low flat marshy
tract, and stands completely isolated from any other
elevations. Its material is basalt, tending to the
prismatic form, slightly columnar, and in some parts
magnetic; and is all the more curious for protruding
through beds of red sandstone, nearly a mile distant
from any other erupted matter. The rock has a
bifurcated or double-peaked form, being cleft toward
the summit by a narrow deep chasm. The western
peak is a little higher than the other, hut not so
broad, and is sometimes called Wallace's Seat.
Ossian, speaking of " Balclutha," which signifies
" the home-town of the Clyde," and which he is
supposed to have used as a poetic name of Dum-
barton Castle, says, "The thistle shakes there its
lovely head;" and, curiously enough, the true
Scottish thistle, though really a rare plant in Scot-
land, still grows wild on Dumbarton rock.
The entrance to the castle, in old times and up
to a period within the memory of some persons still
living, was by a footpath, through a series of gates,
up a gradual acclivity or talus of debris on the
north side. The gates ought now to have been in-
teresting antiquities within the castle; but they
were loutishly sold for old iron, and are now, or
lately were, in the possession of private parties in
Port-Glasgow. The present entrance is on the
south side, and is defended by a rampart. " From
the gateway here a long broad flight of steps con-
ducts to the governor's house, — a wretched mass of
masonry, in no keeping with the features of the
rock and surrounding scenery. From the gover-
nor's house a stair ascends to the point where the
rock is parted into its two heads. Here are the
barracks for the garrison, the state prison, the Duke
of York's battery, the armoury, and the water-tank.
From this point a steep stair conducts to the
summit of the western peak, on which the flag-staff
is erected. Here are seen the relics of a small cir-
cular building which some antiquaries conjecture
to have been a Roman pharos or light-house." The
whole place as a fortress, however, is far more ro-
mantic than strong. The barracks contain accommo-
dation for only about 150 men ; the armoury contains
only about 1,500 stand of arms; and though sixteen
guns are mounted variously at the governor's house,
at the cleft, and on the eastern summit, they serve
at best for raking the channel of the Clyde, and
could do little or nothing to resist a siege; for
ever since the invention of gunpowder artillery,
Dumbarton Castle has been commandable by
Dumhuck.
The view from the western summit of the rock is
panoramic and gorgeous. To the north are seen
the town of Dumbarton, the vale of Leven, and the
waters of Loch Lomond, grandly backed by the
massive Benlomond and his attendant mountains.
To the east appears the rich long valley of the
fluviatile Clyde, marked in the middle by the smoke
of Glasgow and the stalks of St. Rollox, and shad-
ing off in the far distance into the misty forms in
the vicinity of Tinto. To the south and south-west
expands the lagoon of the Clyde, dotted over all its
DUMBARTON.
414
DUMBARTON.
broad bosom with ships and steamers, and screened
along the farther side by the fine hills of Renfrew-
shire, with the towns of Port -Glasgow and Green-
ock at their base. And in the west and north-west,
beyond the limits of the lagoon, are first the sylvan
promontory of Eoseneath, backed by the russet hills
of Cowal, and next the tortuous sky-line of the
Duke of Argyle's Bowling-Green, faced and flanked
by the flowing forms of the Eow and Luss hills.
This brilliant panorama was seen, from its best point
of view on the castle, on a day of August, 1847, by
Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, who were then
on their way to Ardverikie, but made a detour hither
for the purpose of seeing Dumbarton Castle and the
Clyde; and the part of the panorama within the
limits of the lagoon, and its immediate shores, was
then greatly enhanced in picturesque effect by the
accessories of their visit. " The animated spectacle
which the river presented on that occasion, from
Bowling Bay to the Cloch — of which twenty-five
steamers and many other vessels on the water, and
large masses of people on every prominent point, far
and near, formed the most prominent feature — gave
to the beautiful and sublime array of nature the ad-
ditional interest of a living picture of a kind never
or rarely equalled."
Dumbarton rock, as we have already mentioned,
was, in all probability, occupied as a stronghold in
the time of the Romans; and, at all events, was
chosen for the site of a fortress by the aboriginal in-
habitants of Scotland, shortly after those invaders
had evacuated the country. It is particularly men-
tioned by Bede, at the beginning of the 8th century,
as one of the strongest fortifications possessed by
the Britons. Hoveden refers to it as having been
reduced by famine by Egbert, King of Northumber-
land, in 756; but Chalmers is disposed to doubt the
accuracy of this statement. Its importance as a
fortress has all along been considered so great that,
from the time of Bede to the present hour, it has
been retained by the Crown as one of the royal
castles. When Maldwyn obtained the Earldom of
Lennox from Alexander II., the castle of Dum-
barton, with a portion of the land in its neighbour-
hood, was specially excepted from the grant. Along
with the other royal fortresses of Scotland, it was
delivered up to Edward I. during the competition
between Brace and Baliol for the Crown ; and was
afterwards made over to Baliol in 1292, when the
dispute was settled in his favour. In 1296, it again
fell into the hands of the English, and Alexander
de Ledes was appointed governor of it by Edward.
From 1305 to 1 309, it was held for the same monarch
by Sir John Menteith, the betrayer of Wallace.
After the fatal battle of Halidon hill, in 1333, Sir
Malcolm Fleming of Cumbernauld secured it for the
King. Towards the end of the same century, it was
held first by Sir Robert Erskine, and afterwards by
Sir Robert Danielston. After the death of the latter,
in 1399, Walter Danielston, parson of Kincardine
•"•'Neil, forcibly took possession of it, and held it till
1402, when he surrendered it to the Crown. In
1425, James Stewart, son of the Regent Albany,
assaulted and burnt the town of Dumbarton, and
murdered Sir John Stewart, the King's uncle, who
held the castle with 32 men. Dumbarton was be-
sieged in 1481 by the fleet of Edward IV., and was
bravely and successfully defended by Andrew Wood
of Largs. In 1489, the Earl of Lennox, keeper of
the castle, having engaged in an insurrection against
the government of James IV., Dumbarton was be-
sieged— though without success — by the Earl of
Argyle. Shortly after, however, the King himself
appeared before the castle, and compelled the sons of
Lennox, who then held it, to surrender, after a
siege of six weeks. In 1514, the Earls of Lennox
and Glencairn, during a tempestuous night, broke
open the lower gate of the castle; and, having thus
obtained access, turned out the governor, Lord
Erskine. Lennox appears to have retained posses-
sion till 1516, when he was compelled to deliver it
up to Allan Stewart. Shortly after the battle of
Pinkie, Queen Mary, then a child, took up her
residence in the castle of Dumbarton ; and, on leav-
ing it two years afterwards, she embarked here for
France. Queen Maiy again visited the castle, in
1563, when on a progress into Argyle; and during
the troubles which followed on her dethronement,
this fortress was held for her by Lord Fleming.
But on anight in May, 1571, during the regency
of the Earl of Lennox, it was captured by a feat of
gallantly so remarkable as to be well worthy of
detailed notice.
" Captain Crawford of Jordanhill, to whom the
attack was intrusted," says Tytler, " had been long
attached to the house of Lennox. He was the same
person whose evidence was so important regarding
the death of Damley, and who afterwards accused
Lethington of participation in the murder, since
which time he appears to have followed the pro-
fession of arms. In the enterprise he was assisted
by Cunningham, commonly called the Laird of
Drumwhassel, one of the bravest and most skilful
officers of his time, and he had been fortunate in
securing the assistance of a man named Robertson,
who, having once been warden in the castle,
knew every step upon the rock familiarly, and for
a bribe consented to betray it. With this man,
Crawford and his company marched from Glasgow
after sunset. He had sent before him a few light
horse, who prevented intelligence by stopping all
passengers, and arrived about midnight at Dum-
buck, within a mile of the castle, where he was joined
by Drumwhassel and Captain Hume, with a hundred
men. Here he explained to the soldiers the hazard-
ous service on which they were to be employed, pro-
vided them with ropes and scaling ladders, and ad-
vancing with silence and celerity, reached the rock,
the summit of which was fortunately involved in a
heavy fog, whilst the bottom was clear. But, on
the first attempt, all was likely to be lost. The
ladders lost their hold while the soldiers were upon
them ; and had the garrison been on the alert, the
noise must inevitably have betrayed them. They
listened, however, and all was still. Again their
ladders were fixed, and their steel hooks this time
catching firmly in the crevices, they gained a small
jutting-out ledge, where an ash tree had struck its
roots, which assisted them as they fixed the ropes
to its branches, and thus speedily towed up both
the ladders and the rest of their companions. They
were still, however, far from their object. They
had reached but the middle of the rock, day was
breaking, and when, for the second time, they placed
their ladders, an extraordinary impediment occurred.
One of the soldiers in ascending was seized with a
fit, in which he convulsively grasped the steps so
firmly, that no one could either pass him, or unloose
his hold. But Oawford's presence of mind sug-
gested a ready expedient ; he tied him to the ladder,
turned it, and easily ascended with the rest of his
men. They were now at the bottom of the wall,
where the footing was narrow and precarious; but
once more fixing their ladders in the copestone,
Alexander Ramsay, Crawford's ensign, with two
other soldiers, stole up, and though instantly dis-
covered on tire summit by the sentinel who gave the
alarm, leapt down and slew him, sustaining the at-
tack of three of the guard till he was joined by Craw-
ford and his soldiers. Their weight and struggles to
■
DUMBARTONSHIRE.
415
DUMBARTONSHIRE.
surmount it, now brought down the old wall anil
afforded an open broach, through which they rushed
in, shouting, 'a Darn ley, a Darnlcyl' Crawford's
watchword, given evidently from affection to his
unfortunate master, the late King. The garrison
were panic-struck, and did not attempt resistance.
Fleming, the governor, from long familiarity with
tho place, managed to escape down the face of an
almost perpendicular cleft or gully in the rock, and
passing through a postern which opened upon the
Clyde, threw himself into a fishing-boat, and passed
over to Argyleshire. In this exploit the assailants
did not lose a man, and of the garrison only four
soldiers were slain. In the castle were taken
prisoners, Hamilton the Bishop of St. Andrews, who
was found with his mail shirt and steel cap on,
Verac, the French ambassador, Fleming of Boghall,
and John Hall, an English gentleman, who had fled
to Scotland after Dacre's rebellion. Lady Fleming,
tho wife of the governor, was also taken, and treated
by the Regent with great courtesy, permitted to go
free, and to carry off with her her plate and furni-
ture. But Hamilton, the primate, was instantly
brought to trial for the murder of the King, and the
late Regent, condemned, hanged, and quartered
without delay."
At the commencement of the civil war of Charles
the First's time, Dumbarton Castle was in the pos-
session of the royalists ; but in 1639, it was captured
by the patriots, and after some time recaptured by
the royalists; and in 1640 it passed again into the
hands of the patriots. An order was, soon after-
ward, issued by the parliament to destroy its forti-
fications; but this does not seem to have been
obeyed. In 1652, the castle went into the posses-
sion of Oliver Cromwell; and at the union of the
kingdoms, it was appointed to be one of the Scottish
forts which should be always, in all time coming,
kept in repair. Some other points in its history
will be found noted in the article Lennox.
DUMBARTONSHIRE, a county partly mari-
time, but chiefly inland, in the west of Scotland. It
comprises a main body and a detached district. The
main body is bounded on the west by Loch Long
and Argyleshire; on the north by Perthshire; on
the east by Stirlingshire and Lanarkshire; and on
the south by the frith of Clyde and the river Clyde,
which divide it from Renfrewshire. Its length, from
Kelvin river on the south-east, to Aldeman rivulet
in Arrochar on the north, is about 36 miles; its
breadth varies from 2 to 13 miles. Its general out-
line is that of a crescent; the convex line being de-
termined by the eastern coast of Loch Long, and the
northern coast of the frith of Clyde, from the junc-
tion of Loch Long, up to within a few miles of Glas-
gow. The greatest breadth is between the south-
west point of the peninsula of Roseneath, and the
centre of the broadest part of Loch Lomond. The
detached district comprisesthe parishes of Kirkintil-
loch and Cumbernauld, commences 4 miles east of
the nearest part of the main body, is bounded on the
north and east by Stirlingshire, on the south and
west by Lanarkshire, and extends in the direction
of east by north, with a maximum length of 13J
miles and a maximum breadth of about 4 miles.
The main body comprehends about 22S square miles,
and the detached district about 32 J square miles.
All the northern district of the county, lying
partly around the head of Loch Lomond, and partly
between that superbest of lakes and Loch Long, is
entirely highland, intersected only by profound glens,
and displaying, in rich rapid succession, all the most
characteristic features of grand, romantic, beautiful,
upland scenery. Benvoirlich, in the extreme north
of that district, soars aloft to the height of 3,300
feet; and Finnart, at the extreme south-west of it,
rises up from the edge of Loch Long to the height
of 2,500 feet. The central part of the main body,
from F'innart and the middle of Loch Lomond to
the screens of the frith of Clyde, but including the
peninsula of Roseneath, is a transition region be-
tween the highland and the lowland, exquisitely
blending many a feature of sternness and of
savageness with features profusely many and pro-
fusely fine of the most laughing loveliness. On the
east side of this district, in particular, " the lofty
hills are strikingly contrasted with the wide expanse
of the beautifully spread and the pellucid waves
of the queen of lakes, the far-famed yet scarcely
sufficiently admired Loch Lomond; and savage
grandeur, in all the towering superiority of unculti-
vated nature, is seen side by side with the very
emblem of peace and tranquillity, an alpine lake
which the winds reach only by stealth." The
south-eastern district, comprising the sea-board of
the Clyde, the vale of Leven, and the tract east-
ward of that vale to the extremity of the county's
main body, is pervadingly lowland and luscious,
almost sweet to excess with gentle contour and
tasteful ornamentation; yet even this is diversified
— to some extent, broadly occupied— with characters
of abruptness and boldness, such as in the shoulders
of Cardross hills, in the mass of Dumbarton rock,
in the brows of Dumbuck, and of the basaltic ranges
beyond it, and in the capricious, escarped, romantic
acclivities of the Kilpatrick hills, which fling
double brilliance on the scenes below by the force of.
contrast. The detached district is all lowland, and
tamely so, yet extends so near the roots of the
Campsie fells, as to borrow from them effects of
scenery similar to those which the tracts along the
fluviatile Clyde borrow from the Kilpatrick hills.
" No region in Great Britain can boast of finer
scenery than the county of Dumbarton; and cer-
tainly none is more variegated, or more frequently
visited or admired by strangers."
About 20,000 acres of Dumbartonshire are occu
pied by fresh-water lakes and by streams. Loch
Lomond, though belonging in a great degree to
Stirlingshire, belongs in a greater to Dumbarton-
shire. Eight or nine other fresh-water lakes be-
long to Dumbartonshire, but are all small. The
most remarkable of them is Loch Sloy in Arrochar,
from which the Clan Macfarlane took their slogan or
war-cry. The rivulets Falloeh, Inveruglas, Doug-
las, Luss, Finlas, and Fruin, together with some
brooks and torrents, exhibiting numbers of fine
cascades, drain most of the highland portions of
Dumbartonshire into Loch Lomond. The river
Leven draws off the superfluence of that " queen of
lakes," along the vale of Leven, to the Clyde. The
Endrick traces the boundary about 5 miles with Stir-
lingshire into Loch Lomond. The Clyde, in its fluvi-
atile character, or before expanding into frith, bounds
only the parish of West Kilpatrick, and even there
is swept deeply by the tides, and swarms with the
vast commercial traffic of Glasgow. The Allander,
a tributary of the Kelvin, drains most of East
Kilpatrick; and the Kelvin itself drains most of the
detached district of the county, but is there very
far from picturesque, little else than a large ditch.
Some tiny head-streams of the Can-on, belonging to
the river-system of the Forth, drain the eastern
part of the detached district. Many beautiful
streamlets, either affluents of the rivers we have
named, or pursuing independent courses to Loch
Long, the Gare Loch, and the frith of Clyde, trickle
over the face of the county; and " springs of whole-
some water gush out in liberal profusion for the use
of man and beast."
DUMBARTONSHIRE.
416
DUMBARTONSHIRE.
The climate of Dumbartonshire is exceedingly
diversified. Some parts of the county, such as the
vale of Leven and the sea-board of the Clyde, are
comparatively genial; while other parts, such as the
pastoral lands of Arrochar and the tableaux of the
Kilpatriek hills, are comparatively severe. Even
small tracts, onlyafew miles distant from one another,
are strongly affected, and made greatly to differ in
regard to heat, to moisture, and even to the force
a:id direction of short winds, by the configuration of
the surface. Nowhere in Scotland do heights and
hollows act more powerfully as controllers of climate,
the former in the way of attracting or sheltering, or
the latter in the way of ventilating or warming.
Even in places so near and like one another as Kep-
poch, Camus-Eskan, Ardincaple, and Bellretiro, the
aggregates of rain-fall in one year, as ascertained
by gauges all of one construction, were respectively
43-)5, 45'5, 50-57, and 52'5. On the whole, how-
ever, the climate is good. There is more moisture,
indeed, than in many other parts of Scotland ; but
the excess is not so much in the quantity that falls
as in the length of time it takes to fall; and what-
ever disadvantage arises from a corresponding ex-
cess of cloudiness, seems to be well counterbalanced
by a grand prevalence of "the zephyr," the genial
west wind, which blows during no less a time than
about nine months in the year. East winds, it is
true, are much complained of in spring ; but, in even
their bitterest moods, these cannot be so bad here
as in the eastern counties, and are seldom accompa-
nied, at least in any serious degree, by "haars."
The rocks of Dumbartonshire range in character
from the metamorphic to those of the coal measures.
The oldest are in the north, and the newest in the south
and south-east. Mica-slate forms the greater part
of the highest and most striking uplands of the north.
It is always stratified, often laminated, and generally
comprises much mica, much quartz, and very little
felspar. Its quartz is sometimes so extremely abun-
dant as to render the rock more properly quartzose
than micaceous. The mica-slate likewise passes
occasionally into talc-slate ; and between Tarbet and
Luss both the mica-slate and the talc-slate are in-
tersected by beds of greenstone and of felspar por-
phyry. Clay-slate also abounds in the north ; and
is worked as a roofing-slate in well-known quarries
at Luss and Camstradden. It is generally incum-
bent on the mica-slate, and abounds with iron pyrites,
and is often traversed by veins of quartz. A slate
occurs in the same region so mixed with lime that
i t may be called a limestone slate. Trappean rocks
of various lithological character, besides forming
dikes and masses among other rocks, constitute
Dumbarton castle, Dumbuck hill, and the Kilpat-
riek hills. Greywacke commences a little south
of Camstradden quarry, and forms a large part of
the parishes of Row and Cardross. This greywacke
is chiefly amorphous, seldom slaty, and often, like
the mica-slate, contains a profusion of quartz. A
bluish-black limestone likewise is frequently as-
sociated with the greywacke. Old red sandstone
extends from the lower part of Lochlomond, through
the western part of Bonhill, and through Cardross
and Row, to the south-west of Roseneath. A
yellow sandstone of quite different lithological cha-
racter from the old red sandstone, easily chis-
eled, but hardening by exposure, occurs on some
parts of the seaboard of the Clyde, and extends
fitfully and at intervals to Netherton Garscube in
East Kilpatriek. Limestone, coal, shale, and small
beds of ironstone lie above the sandstones, in the
eastern wing of the main body of the county, and
throughout the detached district; but, though of
some value for their "calm limestone" and forcer-
tain coal-seams, they aggregately yield a very poor
produce compared to that of other Scottish regions
of the coal formation.
The surface of Dumbartonshire has been agricul-
turally estimated to comprise 6,050 English acres of
deep black loam, 30,970 of clay on a subsoil of till,
25,220 of gravel or gravelly loam, 3,750 of green hill
pasture, 99,400 of mountains and moors, 720 of bogs,
and 930 of islands in Loch Lomond. The estates,
with a few exceptions, are not large ; and even the
farms, in some places, do not comprise an area of
more than 20 or 30 acres. The very largest estate
yields a rental of only about £4,500. The number
of landowners, exclusive of feuars and portioners in
towns, is about 150. The rivalry of proprietors in the
lowland districts, together with vicinity to Glasgow,
facility of communication, and great increase of
general trade, has powerfully stimulated agricultural
improvement. A great deal has been done, and is
still doing, to enhance the value of land. Draining
has been practised extensively and to much advan-
tage ; and attention has been given to the proper
management of fences. For a long period the ope-
ration of ploughing was performed, according to
ancient Highland usage, with four horses abreast ;
the driver marching in front of his teem, with along
stick in his hand, attached to which were the halters
of each horse. This method, which required the
close attendance of two persons, was superseded in
time by the use of three horses, and afterwards by
the use of only two. Lime is in general use ; and
large quantities of it are imported from the north of
Ireland and the island of Arran, independently of
what is manufactured in the county. There is also
a large demand for common manure from Glasgow,
Greenock, and other adjacent towns. Sea-weed, as a
manure, is in small repute. Marl can be obtained,
though not in great quantities, but is scarcely ever
used. Oats are raised in greater quantities than any
other species of grain. Wheat has, of late years,
much increased ; barley, however, has proportion-
ally decreased. Pease are little sown ; but the cul-
ture of beans is becoming more general, and in stiff
clayey soils they are found to be an excellent pre-
parative for wheat. Potatoes are cultivated in great
quantities ; their quality is excellent ; and in Glas-
gow and the surrounding towns they always find a
ready market. Copsewood is at once highly orna-
mental, and a considerable branch of revenue; and
no small degree of care is taken in its management.
The land on which it is produced is unfit either for
cultivation or pasture; so that the gain derivable
from the wood may be considered, after the deduc-
tion of labour, as almost altogether gratuitous. A
great extension which took place some time ago in
sheep-farming was accompanied by the practice of
moor-buming ; so that the upland division of the
county — which could once boast of little else than
heath and moor — is now covered with verdure, and
has, on the whole, a widely different aspect from
what it presented at the close of last century.
The native horses are very inferior ; and with very
few exceptions are scarcely ever used in field-labour.
The farmers generally supply themselves, at the
Lanarkshire markets, with the celebrated breed of
Clydesdale. Most of the black cattle in the upland
districts are of the Highland breeds ; while those in
the lowlands are, in general, either crosses between
these breeds and the Ayrshire one, or, on dairy farms,
or for dairy purposes, pure Ayrshire. The sheep on
the hill pastures are generally the black-faced, and
those in the low grounds generally the Cheviot, with
some pets of English origin. Swine are kept by
almost every farmer, mostly for domestic use. On
Inchmuirin and Inchlonaig, two islands of Loch Lo-
DUMBARTONSHIRE.
417
DUMBARTONSHIRE.
montl, there are extensive herds of fallow-deer. Red
deer — once plenteous in the mountainous districts of
the county — have long since hecn extirpated, and
but very few rocs remain among the rugged and
woody spots on the banks of Loch Lomond and
Loch Long. Bees once ahounded on the moors, but
have been almost extirpated thence by the burnings
of the heath.
Dumbartonshire now possesses excellent means
of land-communication. Of this, in former times,
there was a great deficiency. Previous to the year
1790, the only turnpike road was that from Dum-
barton to Glasgow, while the country roads were also
few, and of the very worst description. The improve-
ments in roads and bridges have proved of the utmost
advantage to the county's agriculture and local
commerce. The Forth and Clyde canal, begun in
1768, and finished in 1790, has also been of great
service. The steam navigation on the Clyde, be-
sides steadily stimulating trade over no small part of
the county's lowlands, has vastly raised the value
of property, together with creating all the wealth of
watering-places, throughout most of the shores of
the Clyde-lagoon, the Gare Loch, and Loch Long.
And the recent opening of the Dumbartonshire rail-
way has powerfully followed the steam-navigation
to the town of Dumbarton in producing similar
effects, though on a smaller scale, through the vale
of Leven, and even up the shores of Loch Lomond.
The Forth and Clyde railway, now in progress of
construction, will no doubt also contribute its quota
of benefits. The improvement of the navigation of
the Clyde even produced the incidental advantage
of adding to the productive area of the county about
600 acres of rich land ; the spaces behind the stone
walls which were formed for confining the tidal
current having rapidly become filled with such fine
mud and silt as soon became available first for
meadow and next for the plough. Most of the low-
tracts of Dumbartonshire, even such as have not
the aid of indigenous coal, have followed Glasgow
in the race of manufacturing industry. The banks
of the Leven, in particular, are covered with numer-
ous bleachfields, printfields, and cotton-works, giv-
ing employment to thousands. Among the various
manufactures of the county, the printing of cottons
is still the most important. Next to this is cotton-
spinning. There are several paper-mills, a large
iron-work, two or three chemical works, two or three
distilleries, and several ship-building yards at Dum-
barton and Bowling. The sahnen-fisheries are at
present worth about £800 per annum. The herring-
fishery produces about £4,000.
The only royal burgh in Dumbartonshire is Dum-
barton. The towns are Kirkintilloch, Alexandria,
Helensburgh, Duntocher, Renton, and Bonhill. The
villages are Bowling-Bay, Dalmuir, Dumbuck, Old
Kilpatrick, Little Mill, Milton, Faifley, Hardgate,
Cardross, Garelochhead, Roseneath,Kilcreggan, Luss,
Dalvault, Jameston, Mill of Halden, Dalsholrn, New
Kilpatrick, Knightswood, Netherton-Quarry, Cum-
bernauld, and Condorat. Some of the principal man-
sions are Koseneath Castle and Ardincaple House,
the Duke of Argyle; Cumbernauld House, Lord El-
phinstone; Rossdhu, Sir James Colquhoun, Bart.;
Garscube House, Sir Archibald Campbell, Bart.;
Tilliechewan Castle ; Bonhill Castle ; Camus-Eskan ;
and Shandon Castle. The parishes are Dumbarton,
Cardross, Row, Roseneath, Arrochar, Luss, Bonhill,
Kilmaronock, West Kilpatrick, Kirkintilloch, Cum-
bernauld, and part of East Kilpatrick.
The county of Dumbarton was for some time iden-
tical with the ancient district of Lennox; and its
political histoiy will be related in our article Len-
nox. The sheriff-court for the county, and the com-
missary court are held at Dumbarton every Fri-
day during session. The sheriff's ordinary small-
debt court is held at Dumbarton every second Thurs-
day during session, and occasionally during vacation.
Sheriff's small-debt circuit courts are held at Kirkin-
tilloch on the second Tuesday of February, May,
August, and November. Quarter sessions arc held
on the first Tuesday of March, May, and August,
and the last Tuesday of October. The valued rental
of the county in 1674 was £33,327 Scots; and the
annual value of real property as assessed in 1843 was
£147,079 10s. lid. The assessment for prisons and
rogue-money in 1865-6 was ljd. per, pound each.
Dumbartonshire returns one member to parliament.
The parliamentary constituency in 1865 was 1,567.
The weights of this county, previous to the equaliza-
tion act, were avoirdupois for English goods and gro-
ceries, Dutch for meal, and tron of 23 ounces avoirdu-
pois for butter, cheese, butcher-meat, fish, and home
flax. The Dumbarton pint is 2 -9 cubic inches less than
the standard pint. For wheat, pease, and beans, the
firlot contained 2562-75 cubic inches, and is 1 firlot,
3 pints, 1 chopin, 3J cubic inches of the old standard
measure. For oats, barley, and malt, the firlot con-
tained 3,417 cubic inches, which is 1 firlot 2 pints,
4-668 cubic inches standard measure, or 6'597 per-
cent, above the Linlithgow measure. The water
peck of potatoes is nearly 42 lbs. The chalder of
lime is 64 bushels; of lime-shells, 32 bushels. The
rood of land is 6 yards square; the score of sheep
sometimes 21 ; and the stone of wool sometimes
17 lbs.
The population of Dumbartonshire in 1801 was
20,710; in 1811, 24,189; in 1821, 27,317; in 1831,
33,211; in 1841, 44,296; in 1861, 52,034. Inhabited
houses in 1861, 5,893; uninhabited, 359; building,
69. The number of males in 1851 was 22,400; of
females, 22,703. The number of persons committed,
or bailed for criminal offences in 1851 was 139; the
number brought to trial was 115; and the number
convicted was 92. The number of persons on the
poor roll in 1864 was 1,541, — casual, 824, — insane or
fatuous, 38, — orphans or deserted children, 140. The
amount raised for the poor in 1849 from assessment
was £7,011 8s. 4d. ; and from other sources £725 17s.
lljd. The places of worship in Dumbartonshire
are 19 of the Established church, 15 of the Free
church, 14 of the United Presbyterian church, 1
Reformed Presbyterian, 2 Original Secession, 3 Epis-
copalian, 3 Independent, 2 Baptist, 2 Wesleyan Me-
thodist, 1 Evangelical Union, 3 Roman Catholic, and
1 Mormonite. The total number of sittings in 51 of
these 66 places of worship is 26,527. The appliances
of education in 1851 comprised 46 public day schools,
attended by 1,747 males and 1,451 females, — 29 pri-
vate day schools, attended by 878 males, and 702
females, — 2 evening schools for adults, attended by
33 males and 33 females, — 59 Sabbath schools at-
tended by 2,277 males and 2,689 females, — and 6
literary institutions, of various character, in the pa-
rishes of Dumbarton, Bonhill, Cumbernauld, Kirkin-
tilloch, and West Kilpatrick.
Dumbartonshire was full of the strifes of the olden
times, between the Caledonians and the Romans, be
tween the Scots and the Picts, between the Cum
brians and the Saxons, between highland clan and
highland clan, between the caterans and the low-
landers, and between parties after parties in the
several civil wars of the kingdom. Some of the
salient points in its history are touched in our account
of Dumbarton Castle, and in our article on Lennox.
One of its chief antiquities is a large part of the wall
of Antoninus, which runs through all the east wing
of its main body, and along all the north verge of its
detached district. Various Roman remains exist in
2d
DUMBAETONSHIEE.
418
DUMFEIES.
the vicinity of the course of the wall, particularly at
Duntoeher and in Cumbernauld. Dumbarton castle
has some vestiges of the Roman period, and stands
much associated with the Cumbrians or Strathclyde
Britons. Several tumuli and old rude forts in various
places, particularly in the highland districts, are me-
morials of the Caledonians, the Picts, and the Danes.
A locality in Cardross is intimately associated with
the name of Robert the Brace. Numerous old castles,
some scarcely traceable, some existing as rains, and
some incorporated with modern buildings, as at Fas-'
lane, at Kirkintilloch, at Balloch, at Dunglass, and
at Ardincaple, are relics of the several periods of the
baronial times. Some memorials exist also, parti-
cularly in Glenfruin, of sanguinary conflicts among
the clans.
DUMBARTONSHIRE RAILWAY, a double line
of railway from the Clyde, at Frisky, about half a mile
below Bowling Bay, to the foot of Loch Lomond at
Balloch. Its termini are constructed with a view
to the utmost possible facility of connexion at the one
end with the steam navigation of the Clyde, and at
the other with the steam navigation of Loch Lomond.
Tlie line runs almost straight west-north-westward
from Frisky to Dumbarton, and then deflects to the
north up the right bank of the Leven. Its total length
is S£ miles. Its stations, in addition to the termini,
are Dumbarton, Dalreoch, Renton, and Alexandria.
Steamers on the Clyde and on Loch Lomond ply re-
gularly in connexion with its trains. This railway
was opened for passenger traffic in July, 1850. The
original- project comprised branches to the total
length of 35 miles, and bore the name of the Cale-
donian and Dumbartonshire railway. But the por-
tion which we have described is the only part exe-
cuted or not discarded ; and this has not yet yielded
any dividend; and, in consequence of its lying iso-
lated from other railways, for the purpose mainly of
connecting the Clyde up the Leven with Loch Lo-
mond, it has often been popularly designated the
Loch Lomond railway and the Vale of Leven railway.
An accountant's report on its affairs in February,
1 853, says : — " Cost of line, paid, and liabilities to this
date, £244,975, besides liabilities to Helensburgh
Harbour Company, holds land, &c, producing an
yearly income of £100, — estimated value, £5,540."
The completion of the Forth and Clyde railway will,
it is expected, materially improve the affairs of the
Dumbartonshire railway.
DUMBENNAN. See Hustly.
DUMBRAKE. See Udny.
DUMBROCH, a lake of 10 acres in extent, and a
large bleachfield, in the parish of Strathblane, Stir-
lingshire.
DUMBUCK, a village and a hill in the west cor-
ner of the parish of West Kilpatrick, Dumbartonshire.
The village is a cheerful place, near the Clyde, with
20 houses, and a population of 126. The hill is a
black basaltic mass, stooping precipitously to the
plain at the western extremity of the Kilpatrick
hill range, and overawing Dumbarton castle.
DUMBUILS, a low, craggy, precipitous elliptical
hill, about a mile south-east of the village of Forgan-
denny, in the parish of Forgandenny, Perthshire.
It has some remains of an ancient fortification, and
commands a brilliant view of lower Strathearn and
the frith of Tay.
DUMCRIEFF: See Moffat.
DUMFRIES, a parish on the south-west border
of Dumfries-shire. It contains the royal burgh of
Dumfries, the villages of Georgeton, Gaston, Lochar-
briggs, and Lochthorn, and part of the village of
Kelton. It is bounded on the west by Kirkcud-
brightshire, and on other sides by the parishes of
llolywood, Kirkmahoe, Tinwald, Torthorwald. and
Caerlaverock. Its length southward is 8 miles; its
greatest breadth is 3 miles; and its area is about 15
square miles. The river Nith traces all the boun-
dary with Holywood and Kirkcudbrightshire ; and
Lochar water traces all the boundary with Tinwald
and Torthorwald. About 8 miles north-north-west
of the burgh a range of hills is cloven by the Nith,
and they thence diverge and sweep down, in a well-
wooded and picturesque amphitheatre, toward the
Solway frith, terminating, on the east side, in the
heights of Mousewald, and, on the west, in the tower-
ing summit of Criffel, and enclosing, in their pro-
gress, a beautiful and nearly level plain, of almost a
regular oval figure. The centre of this plain, at the
place where it is broadest, and where the two lines
of hill are from 6 to 8 miles asunder, constitutes the
parish of Dumfries. Its surface, for the most part,
is a perfect level. But it rises in a brief but beautiful
acclivity, from the edge of the Nith a little to the
northward of the burgh, undulates along the arena
occupied by the streets, and then rises into a low
ridge of hills, which intersect the southern division
of the parish, stretching away at half-a-mile's dis-
tance from the river toward Caerlaverock. On their
north-west face, where they look down upon the Nith,
these hills are sloping, and wear the gentlest forms
of beauty ; but on the north-east they break down in
abrupt declivities, and have a bold front and com-
manding outline. In one place, about 1J mile from
the burgh, they present a precipitous front, and rise
to a considerable height in two perpendicular rocks,
known as the ' Maiden Bower craigs, ' one of which
has near its summit a remarkable cavity, said to have
been the scene of Draidical rites for the testing of
virginity. About two miles to the north-east of the
burgh, is also a picturesque height, called Clumpton,
which, at an early period, was, most probably, a
mountain-grove and a haunt of the Druids, and, in a
later age, was used as a beacon-post for commanding
the considerable expanse of country which it over-
looks. A beautiful eminence, called Corbelly hill,
though not in the parish, but rising from the oppo-
site bank of the Nith in the suburb of Maxwelltown,
bears aloft an observatory, and mingles with the
grouping of heights and groves on the Dumfries
side, to form, if not a brilliant, at least a fascinating
landscape.
Along the whole western border, the Nith sweeps
gracefully under wooded and richly variegated banks ;
and along the eastern border, the sluggish and almost
stagnant Lochar flows listlessly on through the
brown wastes of Lochar moss. All the eastern sec-
tion or stripe of the parish forms part of this remark-
able morass [see Lochar Moss] ; but is, to a consi-
derable extent, reclaimed, and, in some spots, even
smiles in beauty. The north and north-western
sections are a reddish earth upon a freestone bottom;
and the south-western is a strong clay, and, in the
flat lands, a clay upon gravel. Plantations of oak,
elm, and other trees, are of frequent occurrence.
Around the town, in every direction, are enclosures
surrounded with trees, gardens, and nursery grounds,
neat lawns and pleasant mansions, which impress a
stranger with ideas of refined and opulent comfort.
Several small lakes, particularly the Black and the
Sand lochs, enrich the scenery of the parish, and,
when pavemented with ice, are trodden by numerous
groups of curlers. In Lochar moss is Ferguson's
well, a mineral spring strongly impregnated with
steel ; and on the farm of Fountainbleau is a power-
ful chalybeate spring, which is numerously visited
by invalids, and held in much repute for its medi-
cinal properties. There are several quarries of red
sandstone. There are also considerable salmon fish-
eries. The New Statistical Account estimates the
DUMFRIES.
419
DUMFRIES.
parochial area to comprise 7,930 acres in cultivation,
1,350 which havo never been cultivated, principally
in Lochar moss, 1,300 capablo of being cultivated
with a profit, 74 under full grown or natural wood,
and 244 under plantation. The number of land-
owners is large. The real rental of the landward
districts is about £8,810. The yearly value of raw
produce was estimated in 1833 at £22,286. Assessed
property in 1843, exclusive of the burgh, £10,282
10s. Od.
Antiquities within the limits of the burgh will
occur to be noticed in the next article ; but a few
exist in other parts of the parish. A short way south
of the town, on a romantic spot called Castledykes,
overlooking a beautiful bend of the Nith, stood for-
merly the fortified residence of the Comyns. Near
Castledykes is a field called K ingholm, which either
may have received its present name from Bruce, in
connexion with his having slaughtered Comyn, or
may have originally been called Comyn's-holm, con-
tracted gradually into Kinghohn. At the opposite
end of the town, and upon the banks of the river, is
another field still called Nunholm, which lies adja-
cent to the site of a nunnery formerly established at
Lincluden. Toward the south end of the parish is
an eminence called Trohoughton, which has been
noticed by Pennant as a Roman station. In the
eastern part of the parish, an antique, supposed to be
a Roman sandal, was, many years ago, found; and in
the Nith, nearly opposite the town-mills, was found,
about 65 years ago, a small gold coin, thinner than
a sixpence, but as broad as a half-crown, bearing,
round the impression of a Roman head, the inscrip-
tion 'Augustus.' Dr. Wight, professor of divinity
in Glasgow, Dr. Ebenezer Gilchrist, and Mr. An-
drew Crossbie, advocate, were natives of Dumfries ;
and the Rev. William Veitch — of whose life Dr.
M'Crie has given an account — was, for some time
after the Revolution, its minister. Population of
the parish, including the burgh, in 1831, 11,606;
in 1861, 13,523. Houses, 1,681.
This parish is the seat of both a presbytery and a
synod. At the Reformation it was bereft of several
chapels which formerly belonged to it, and of endow-
ments connected with particular altars, and left in
possession of only its principal church, dedicated to
St. Michael. In 1658, a second minister was ap-
pointed; and in 1727 a second church, called the
New church, was built. In 1745, the old church of
St. Michael was pulled down, and the existing struc-
ture erected. The patron of both this church and
the New is the Crown. In 1838 a third church was
built, called St. Mary's, which has now the legal
status of a quoad sacra parish, with the patronage
vested in the male heads of families. All the places
of worship in the parish, both established and dis-
senting, are situated in the burgh. Sittings in St.
Michael's 1,250; in the New church 1,185; in St.
Mary's 1,034. Stipend of the minister of St. Mi-
chael's £332 Is. lid., with a glebe of about £25
annual value; of the minister of the New church
£231 13a. 4d. There is a Free church with 984 sit-
tings, whose receipts in 1865 amounted to £507 2s.
2 jd. There are three United Presbyterian churches,
—one of them in Lorebum street, built in 1829, at
the cost of upwards of £900, — another in Buccleuch
street, built in 1809, at the cost of £1,350, — and the
third in Queensberry street, formerly Relief, with 812
sittings. There are a Reformed Presbyterian church,
with 650 sittings, an Episcopalian chapel, with 300
sittings, an Independent chapel, with 374 sittings,
a Wesleyan Methodist chapel, with 305 sittings, a
Roman Catholic chapel, with 800 sittings, and a
Baptist place of worship, with an attendance of about
40. Four endowed schools, under the patronage of
the magistrates, town-council, and ministers, are
united under the name of the Dumfries Academy.
The brandies taught are Greek, Latin, French, Eng-
lish, mathematics, arithmetic, book-keeping, writ-
ing, drawing, and geography. The French and the
drawing classes, however, are not endowed. Several
schools, of a charity character, for poor children or
for adults, are supported or aided by subscription ;
and there are at least thirty day schools conducted on
private adventure, — most for the ordinary branches
of education, and some for the higher and most polite
branches.
DUMFRIES, a post and market town, a sea-port,
a royal burgh, the county-town of Dumfries-shirc,
the seat of a circuit-court, and of a presbytery and
a synod, and the metropolis of the south-west quar-
ter of Scotland, is a place of elegance, importance,
and great antiquity. It is situated in N. lat. 55° 2'
45", and W. long, from Greenwich 3° 36', on a slight
undulating elevation on the east bank of the Nith,
about 9 miles above the entrance of that river into
the Solway frith, 8 south-west of Lochmaben, 14£
south-south-east of Thornhill, 15J north-west of An-
nan, 30 west-south-west of Langholm, 33 north-west
of Carlisle, 60 south- east of Ayr, 7 1 south by west o(
Edinburgh, and respectively 72 and 92, the former
by road and the latter by railway, south-west by
south of Glasgow.
The environs of the town, as may be inferred from
the description we have given of the parish, are
veiy beautiful. They have enough of both near hill
and distant mountain to be perfectly relieved from
the monotonous flatness which encompasses most oi
the best towns of England, and at the same time
abound in mansions, lawns, gardens, nursery,
grounds, wooded enclosures, and all the other orna-
mentation of luscious lowland scenery. The town
itself, as to at once relative position, social cha-
racter, marketing influence, immediate situation,
and architectural structure, is one of the most in-
teresting in Scotland. It is a minor capital, ruling
in the south with nearly as much sway as Edinburgh
rales the east. It is a place of snugness, of opu-
lence, of taste, and of pretension, as the residence
and resort of genteel families, who form a compara-
tively large proportion of its population, and give a
very perceptible tone to its manners. It has sometimes
been called by its admirers " the queen of the south, "
and was skittishly designated by Bums "Maggie by
the banks o' Nith, a dame wi' pride eneuch." Its
power, in trade and commerce and political control,
is singularly commanding, in the midst of a great
rich agricultural county, with scarcely a rival, or
at least without any competitor which can for a
moment be compared with it, between Ayr and Car-
lisle, or between the Irish sea and the Lowther
mountains. And even as a town, though other in-
fluential towns were not remote, it is notable, both
for its beautiful alignment in good street order along
the river, and for a certain, curious, pleasing pic-
turesqueness in the style and collocation of its
houses. Built of a dark-coloured freestone, it in
some spots has the sombre aspect of a town of
brick; but many of its edifices being gauzed in a
white paint, and others so decorated with the brush
as to resemble structures of Portland stone, it pre-
sents a tout-ensemble of variegated tints and of
mingled gaiety and sadness.
The suburb of Maxwelltown, extending along the
Kirkcudbrightshire bank of the Nith, directly oppo-
site, and nearly of the same length, looks to the eye
to be part of Dumfries, and contributes to it some
striking features, but will fall to be described in our
article Maxwelltown. The thoroughfare along the
Dumfries bank of the river has the terraced form
DUMFEIES.
420
DUMFRIES.
leaving the view of the stream and of Maxwelltown
fully open ; and large part of this thoroughfare even
expands into spacious widths, used variously for busi-
ness andforpromenading, and popularly called Sands.
Two bridges connect Maxwelltown and Dumfries;
hut only the upper one is available for carriages ;
and this commands a good view of all the river-ward
features of the suburb and the burgh, stretching
partly to the north, but chiefly to the south. Buc-
cleuch-street commences at the Dumfries end of this
bridge, and goes up on a line with it, pleasant and
airy in aspect, and containing the county buildings,
and two neat places of worship. A street goes off
from the middle of the south side of Buccleuch-street
at the jail, and intersects the lower part of the town
in a line parallel to the river. Another street goes
off from the top of the north side of Buccleuch-street,
and stands connected with a neat small new town, a
suite of regular, retired, aristocratic thoroughfares,
bearing some resemblance to various pleasant nooks
in the new town of Edinburgh. An irregular wide
thoroughfare winds from the top of the south side of
Buccleuch-street round to a spacious area, a sort of
Place, at the commencement of the High-street. A
narrow but romantic old street strikes off from the
west side of this area, and goes parallel to Buccleuch-
street away to the Nith. Another street of a similar
character strikes off from the opposite side of the
area, and curves round northward to "the town-
head," at a part of the Nith above a graceful bend
which it makes before approaching the upper bridge.
The north side of the Place, as we have called it, is
occupied chiefly by the New church. The High-
street, commencing grandly here, sweeps away
southward parallel to the Nith. This street is
nearly a mile in length ; but, like a brook in a ro-
mantic glen, it deviates so from the straight line as,
while disclosing part of its beauties, to allure a spec-
tator onward to behold more ; and it is of very unequal
width, averaging probably about 60 feet, but ex-
panding at three points into at least 100. At several
places in its progress it sends off branch-streets at
right angles toward the Nith ; about half-way along
it is joined from the south-east, at an angle of 50 or
60 degrees, by English-street, the spacious thorough-
fare to Lochmaben and Annan ; and all along the
east it is winged by lanes and clusters of buildings
which, together with the streets lying between it
and the Nith, make the average breadth of the town
J of a mile. All the streets are well-paved, clean,
and lighted up at night with gas; some of the smaller
ones are remarkably elegant; and the greatthorough-
fares present an array of large and brilliant shops
which may almost bear comparison with those of the
iiroud metropolis. The Nith adds much both to the
>eauty and salubrity of the town, approaching it
under an acclivity richly covered with wood, — break-
ing over a caul built diagonally across it for the
supplying of a cluster of grain mills with water, —
alternately leaping along in a shallow current, and
swelling backward upon the caul by the pressure
of the flowing tide — -and both above and below the
town, diffusing verdure and beauty overbanks which
are rich in promenading retreats for the citizens.
The upper bridge, or new bridge, is an excellent
stone structure, erected in 1794, more substantial
than elegant, yet not destitute of beauty. The old
bridge, a short distance down, was built in the 13th
century. This was originally a structure of 13
arches, and was esteemed the best bridge in Great
Britain next to that of London; but it now consists
of only 6 arches, and is mounted by a rapid ascent
on the Dumfries side to what was formerly its centre,
and affords accommodation only to foot-passengers.
On the couth side of Buccleuch-street are the county
jail and bridewell, the latter originally used as the
court-house, and both built in 1807. They are sur-
rounded by a high wall, bridewell in front and the
jail in the rear; but are heavy-looking buildings,
and inconvenient places of confinement. Directly
opposite, on the north side of Buccleuch-street, and
communicating with the jail by a vaulted subterra-
nean passage, is the county court-house. This was
originally the spacious chapel, or "tabernacle,"
erected by the Haldanes during the briefly trium-
phant march of their missionary operations in Scot-
land; and, after having for years stood unoccupied,
it was converted into a court-room and other judi-
ciary offices, and architecturally renovated and
adorned, so as to combine interior commodiousness
with exterior elegance of appearance. In the middle
of the High-street, cleaving it, for a brief space, into
two narrow thoroughfares, is a cluster of buildings
surmounted by the Mid steeple, and including the
chambers in which the meetings of the town-council
are held. The Mid steeple is interesting both on
account of the fine prominent figure it makes in
every landscape view of the burgh, and because it
was an architectural work of the famous Inigo Jones.
Opposite it, in the eastern thoroughfare, is tlie Trades
hall, erected in 1804, for the meetings of the seven
incorporated trades. Overshadowed by the Mid
steeple is a sudden expansion of the High-street
called Queensberry square, the centre of traffic for
the south-west of Scotland, and, in common with all
the adjacent thoroughfares, the theatre of dense
crowds of actors on the day of the weekly market;
and in this square a Doric column of handsome ar-
chitecture, erected in 1780 by the gentlemen of the
county, in memory of Charles, Duke of Queensberry,
rears aloft its fine pinnacle, and superintends the
busy scenes around. In George-street, the assem-
bly-rooms, of comparatively modern erection, dis-
play much beauty of architectural design. At the
town-head, on the elevated bank of the Nith, before
it sweeps round toward the new bridge, stands, in a
spaciotis area, and commanding a fascinating view,
the High school or academy. This institution has
for fifty years been celebrated as a place of liberal
education. The buildings are elegant, the class-
rooms capacious, and the masters well qualified for
their duties. The Crichton Eoyal institution was
originally designed to be an university, but is a
large and handsome asylum provided by the bequest
of upwards of £100,000 by the late Dr. Crichton of
Friars carse. At the south-east extremity of the
town, is the Dumfries and Galloway Eoyal infir-
mary, founded in 1776, and maintained chiefly by
legacies, private contributions, parochial allowances,
and annual grants from the counties of Dumfries,
Kirkcudbright, and Wigton. It is commodiously
fitted up in the interior, yet has a somewhat gloomy
exterior. This institution is the only one of its
class in the south of Scotland, and has been of in-
calculable benefit to the surrounding district. The
poor's hospital, erected in 1733, by the bequest of
two relations of the name of Muirhead, supports, as
inmates, poor orphans and aged paupers of both
sexes, and affords pensions to upwards of forty wi-
dows at their own homes ; and it is maintained
partly by its own funds, and partly by subscriptions
and donations. A tenement in a humble street, for-
merly called Millbrae hole, but now called Burns
street, was the death-place of the poet Burns, and
was occupied by his widowed "Bonnie Jean" from
the time of his death in 1796 to that of her own in
1834. It is a house of two storeys; and having been
offered for sale in 1850, was then purchased by the
poet's son, Lieut.-Col. William Nicol Burns. The
Commercial inn, on the south side of the High-street,
DUMFRIES.
421
DUMFRIES.
is an object of curiosity, from its having been, in bis
retreat from England, in December 1745, the head-
quarters of Prince Charles Stuart. The theatre of
Dumfries, though small, is of handsome structure,
with a projecting portico, and possesses interest as
the scene of the earliest efforts of Edmund Keane.
The Glasgow and South-western railway is carried
across the Nith by a viaduct about a mile above
Dumfries; and it has added some noticeable features
to the north-eastern outskirts of the burgh by its
station there and its various works.
Of the ecclesiastical edifices of Dumfries, by far
the most interesting is the old parish-church, situ-
ated at the south-east end of the town, and dedicated
to St. Michael. The present edifice was built in
1745, and is surmounted by a lofty and handsome
spire. The cemetery around it is famous for the vast
multitude and singular variety of its monuments, —
its splendid mausoleums rising like mimic temples
over the ashes of the gifted and the wealthy, — its
forest of obelisks, columns, and elevated urns, robed
in white painting, and appearing in the dim moon-
light like an assembly of spectres, — and its crowds
of simple head-stones rearing their humble forms
over the remains of the worthy but unknown to
fame. Exclusive of such as were in a ruinous con-
dition, the monuments, even about thirty years ago,
according to a calculation then made by Mr. M'Diar-
mid, could not have been reared at a much less ex-
pense than £100,000. There were 120 monuments
of the first class of architecture; considerably up-
wards of 700 tomb-stones nn pillars, and in good
repair; about 220 head-stones or erect slabs; and
about 1 ,000 other monumental structures or stones
which were more or less dilapidated. Among the
monuments is one erected over the ashes of three wit-
nesses to the truth, who were martyred during the
persecutions of the Stuarts. But the structure which,
more than any other, attracts the gaze of strangers,
is a splendid mausoleum over the mortal remains of
the poet Burns. The body of the bard was origin-
ally interred in the northern corner of the cemetery,
and honoured with only a plain monumental stone
erected by his widow. But a subscription, sanctioned
by a contribution of fifty guineas from George IV.,
having been raised to express admiration of the
poet's genius, his body, or as much of it as could be
collected, was, on the 19th of September, 1815, ex-
humed from its obscure resting-place, and transferred
to an arched vault in the present mausoleum. This
beautiful edifice,
*' The homage of earth's proudest isle,
To that bard- peasant given," —
was constructed according to a design furnished by
Thomas F. Hunt, Esq. of London, at a cost of
£1,450; and it contains, in the interior, a fine em-
blematic marble structure, designed by Peter Tur-
nerelli, which represents the genius of Scotland in-
vesting Burns, in his rustic dress and employment,
with her poetic mantle. The New church — as it is
still called — looks conspicuous within the burgh,
from its blocking up the north end of the High-
street, and is a fine edifice surmounted by a spire.
It was built partly of materials from the dilapidated
old castle of Dumfries, on the site of which it
stands ; and was first opened for public worship in
1727. The quoad sacra parish church of St. Mary's
looks down English-road, and is a conspicuous and
arresting object to strangers entering the town from
the south-east. It was built according to a design
furnished by John Henderson, Esq. of Edinburgh ;
and is a beautiful light Gothic structure, with an
ornamental spire supported by flying buttresses.
The Episcopalian chapel, and the Buccleuch-street
United Presbyterian meeting-house, are both neat and
agreeable edifices, and contribute, with the county
buildings, to present an attractive picture to a tra-
veller entering the town from the north. The Free
church, the Roman Catholic, the Independent, and
the Reformed Presbyterian places of worship, are
likewise good structures; and the second has a
steeple erected in 1859.
Dumfries is rich in its religious, educational, lit-
erary, and social institutions. It has Bible and mis-
sionary societies, both general and congregational,
for aiding the diffusion of Christianity; a Liberian
society for assisting the free negroes on the African
coast; a Samaritan society for watching over the
well-being of the poor; a friendly society for the sup-
port of widows; an association for resisting the en-
croachments of infidelity; a public dispensary; a
savings' bank; the numerous schools and charities
already noticed; an astronomical association ; a hor-
ticultural society ; a mechanics' institution ; an an-
nual exhibition of works of art ; four public reading-
rooms; a public library, established in 1792; a so-
ciety library, established at an earlier period ; two
other public libraries, and three circulating libraries ;
and four weekly newspapers, the Courier, the Her-
ald, the Standard, and the Bulletin, — the first pub-
lished on Tuesday, the second on Friday, the third
on Wednesday, and the fourth on Saturday. Dum-
fries has altogether an intellectual and polished
tone, which invests it with an importance fat-
paramount to the bulkiness of its population. It
has also, in a considerable degree, a character
— an evangelical moralist would say, not an enviable
one — for gaiety and fashionable dissipation. Besides
its successful demand for select and celebrated actors
in its theatre, it has a regatta club, a share in the
meetings of the royal Caledonian hunt, and annual
races in autumn on the crowded racing-ground of
Tinwald downs. It was, till very recently, remark-
able likewise for its frequent public processions, and
its periodical shooting, in the field called Kingholm,
for 'the siller gun,' — a bauble presented to the town
by James VI., when returning from his visit to
Scotland, as an expression of his satisfaction with the
loyalty of the burghers.
The navigation of the Nith has at a great expense
been materially improved. A rock which stood
across the bed of the river, visible at low water, and
preventing large vessels from passing Glencaple,
has been cut away ; other obstructions in the river's
channel have been removed; the lighthouse at
Southerness and the landing-places at the mouth of
the river have been improved; and embankments
have been thrown up, and various devices practised
to counteract the devastating effect of the deep and
impetuous tide which rushes up from the Solway ; so
that many vessels which were formerly obliged to un-
loadat Glencaple or Kelton, can approach close to the
burgh. Quays also are provided against whatever
emergencies may occur, or for the accommodation
of vessels of larger size, at brief intervals along the
river. Besides those at the town and at Glencaple
and Kelton, there is one, called the new quay, at the
bend of the Nith near Castledyke ; so that there are
altogether 4 quays within a distance of 5 miles.
Most of these improvements were effected previous
to 1834, under an act of parliament passed in 1811,
and at an expense of £18,930 ; leaving in 1834 a debt
of £5,909, which was to be liquidated at the rate of
£250 a-year. The harbour dues yielded from 1828
to 1832 an average yearly revenue of £1,083 5s.
The customs duties in 1840-44 averaged £8,576 year-
ly; in 1845-9 averaged £11,540 yearly ; and in 1864
amounted to £6,524. The port till recently extended
from Sarkfoot to Glenluce, but it now extends only
DUMFRIES.
422
DUMFEIES.
from Sarkfoot to Kirkandrews burn. The tonnage
belonging to it in 1840 — 1844 averaged 8,292 ; in
1845—1849 averaged 9,642 ; and in 1860 amounted
to 15,286. The British shipping in foreign trade
with it in 1840 — 1844 averaged 7,123 tons; and in
1845 — 1849 averaged 5,842. The foreign shipping
in foreign trade with it was nothing in six of the
years 1840—1849, and varied from 92 to 1,618 tons
in the rest of these years. The shipping employed
in its coasting trade in the years 1840 — 1844 aver-
aged 186,362 tons a-year; and in the years 1845 —
1849 it averaged 193,767. Its commerce in 1860
was nearly all in British vessels, and comprised a
tonnage of 2,712 inward in the foreign trade, 253
outward in the foreign trade, 42,869 inward in the
coasting trade, and 29,461 outward in the coasting
trade. The principal imports are timber, slate, iron,
coal, wine, hemp, and tallow ; and the principal ex-
ports wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, wool, freestone,
and live stock.
Dumfries, however, figures more as a mart than
as a port. Its markets have long been famous for
the transfer of stock from Scottish to English dealers,
and for their bulky unfluctuating importance. On
every Saturday is a market of little value ; and on
every Wednesday is a great market, more resem-
bling an annual fair than a matter of hebdomadal
occurrence. On the Sands the cattle-dealers dispose
weekly of an immense number of cattle and pigs ;
and, from the end of December to the beginning of
May, they there dispose of many thousand carcases
of pork, usually selling upwards of 700 in one day,
and sometimes, in a few hours, pocketing £4,000 or
£5,000. There are also great annual fairs at Whit-
sunday and Martinmas for black cattle, and, in Oc-
tober and February, for horses. But the chief market
is an annual fair in September, when about 6,000
head of cattle are exposed for sale. During the
droving Beason too, a vast number of transactions
are effected privately throughout the surrounding
country ; no fewer than 20,000 bead of cattle which
had not been exposed in market, having been known,
in a period of ten days, to pass the toll on the tho-
roughfare to England. So many pass through Dum-
fries, that the custom levied at the bridge has fre-
quently amounted to £700 a-year. At each of the
horse fairs about 500 horses are disposed of; and at
that in February an immense number of hare-skins
are sold, probably not fewer than 30,000 or 35,000.
Manufactures are considerable in hats, which em-
ploy 600 workmen ; in hosiery, principally of lambs'
wool, which engage nearly 300 stocking-frames;
and in shoes and clogs, or wooden-soled shoes, which
employ upwards of 300 individuals. There are also
several breweries, several tanneries, and an exten-
sive basket-making establishment. The Glasgow
and South-western railway has served, in various
ways, both to stimulate trade and to modify it ; the
Dumfries and Castle-Douglas railway, with its ex-
tension to Portpatrick, has also had marked effects;
and the Dumfries and Lockerby, going into junc-
tion with the Caledonian, will be valuable. Coaches
meanwhile run to the Caledonian railway stations
at Lockerby and Beattock. The town has branch
offices of no fewer than seven banks, — the Bank of
Scotland, the British Linen, the Commercial, the
National, the Union, the Clydesdale, and the Royal.
The principal inns are the Commercial, the King's
Arms, the George, the Globe, the Swan, and the
Crown.
Dumfries is a very ancient royal burgh. But
many of its public records having been lost or de-
stroyed at troublous epochs, particularly in the years
1715 and 1745, a new royal charter was in recent
times given to it, confirming all its former rights, pri-
vileges, and corporate immunities. This new grant
also conferred on the town a right of guildry, which
it did not previously possess. The municipal gov-
ernment is vested in a provost, 3 bailies, a dean-of-
guild, a treasurer, and 1 9 merchant-councillors, con-
stituted according to the Reform Act ; and the town
is divided into four wards, who elect the council and
the commissioners of police. The report of the con-
vention of royal burghs in 1709 stated the sett of
Dumfries, or the constitution of its council, to be
what it still is under the act of municipal reform.
The 7 incorporated trades of the town are hammer-
men, squaremen, weavers, tailors, shoemakers, skin-
ners, and butchers; and these formerly wielded a
paramount influence in the council. A large part of
the heritable property formerly belonging to the
burgh has been sold during the present century.
The sales were occasioned by debts and by exten-
sive improvements, and all are stated to have been
made by " public roup for full value." The pro-
perty thus disposed of, amounted in value to £15,305
Is. 7d. The present real property consists princi-
pally of mills and granaries, which, in 1 833, yielded
a rental of £357 19s. 8d. sterling, but comprises also
some shops and houses in the suburbs, with small
portions of land attached to them, yielding a rental
of about £180, — and likewise certain feu-duties,
which yield annually about £115. The burgh,
from time immemorial, has possessed a right to levy
tolls and customs for cattle and various descriptions
of commodities passing across the river Nith. In
1681 this right was confirmed by an act of the Scot-
tish parliament; and it was then declared that the
burgh should possess, in all time coming, a right to
levy customs from "Portractford exclusive down-
wards to the mouth of the water of Nith, " for the
purpose of upholding the bridge of Dumfries. The
amount of the dues leviable is not defined under the
act ; but they were fixed by a minute of council in
1772. The burgh has also the right to levy within
its own limits various small customs, which yield
an annual aggregate of about £590. Total corpora-
tion revenue in 1838-9, £1,596 6s. lid.; in 1864-5
about £1,594. The income for police purposes is a
separate account, mainly raised by assessment, yet
materially aided by the sale of manure, and by police
fines. Assessed property of the burgh in 1861,
£30,028. Dumfries unites with Annan, Lochma-
ben, Sanquhar, and Kirkcudbright in sending a
member to parliament ; and its parliamentary boun-
daries include Maxwelltown. Municipal constitu-
ency in 1865,587; parliamentary constituency, 705.
Being the metropolis of an important county, Dum-
fries has a large number of resident lawyers ; and,
in addition to its quarter sessions, it has twice a-year
the circuit justiciary court for the southern districts
of Scotland, and the sheriff and small debt courts.
Population of the municipal burgh in 1841, 10,069;
in 1861, 12,313. , Houses, 1,451. Population of the
parliamentary burgh in 1861, 14,023. Houses, 1,684.
The name of the burgh in the ancient way of
spelling it, was Dunfres, and is supposed to have
been derived from the Gaelic Dun and phreas, sig-
nifying 'a mound covered with copsewood,' or 'a
hill-fort among shrubs. ' It most probably referred
to the castle or strong fortress which long stood at
the north end of the High-street ; and as the original
of that fortress may have been very rude, as the site
of it could not have been an eminence of larger size
than a mound, and as the soil of the site must have
been of a very light kind, not likely to rear any tree-
plants to a greater height than that of mere copse-
wood, the name may be regarded as having, on its
first application, and perhaps for several generations,
been truly descriptive. The ancient arms of the
DUMFKIES.
423
DUMFKIES.
burgh was a chevron and three fleurs de lis; but
that used for many years past is a figure of St. Mi-
chael, winged, trampling on a serpent, and bearing
a pastoral staff. The motto is " Alorburn," a word
which, during many centuries of warfare when the
burgh was constantly exposed to danger, was used
as a war-cry to assemble the townsmen. The side
toward the English border being that whence dan-
ger usually approached, a place of rendezvous was
appointed to the east, on an area intersected by a rill
called the Lowerburn or Lorbuni; and when the
townsmen were summoned to the gathering, the
cry was raised, " All at the Lowerburn, " — a phrase
which was rapidly elided into the word " Alorburn. "
A street in the vicinity of the original course of
Lowerburn still bears the name of Lorburn-street.
Dumfries was probably in existence, as a village
or incipient town, so early as the eighth century.
It appears to have originally grown up around the
fortress of the copse-covered mound, or may have been
first identified with that fortress, and next nursed by
it into a young town. The place became of great
military consequence in the 12th century, especially
in the times of Wallace and Bruce, and was often
then and thenceforth a subject of contention between
the Scotch and English. So early as the reign of
William I., who died in 1214, the town was of such
importance as to be the seat of the judges of Gal-
loway; and it probably received its first charter
either immediately after the accession of that mo-
narch, or during the preceding reign, that of Mal-
colm IV. From several remains of antiquity, it
appears to have been then, not only a place of much
military consequence, but a centre of very consider-
able traffic. So great a public work as the old bridge
could have been thought of only in connection wTith
a townand thoroughfare quite as important to Scot-
land, in the middle ages, as modern Dumfries is to
the country at present ; and this erection was con-
structed before the middle of the 13th century, by
the Lady Devorgilla, third daughter of Allen, Earl
of Galloway, and mother of King John Baliol. The
same lady founded at Dumfries a monastery of Grey
Friars. This edifice stood on a mound at the mar-
gin of the Nith, and though long since untraceable,
continues to give name to Friars Vennel, one of the
considerable streets of the town. In 1305, Robert
Bruce had, in the chapel of this monastery, an angry
altercation with the Red Comyn, a relation of its
foundress. Hesitating about asserting his title to
the crown, and irritated by opposition from Comyn,
he poniarded the latter before the altar, and, rushing
out to his friends who waited at the gate, hurriedly
expressed a doubt that he had slain him. "You
doubt!" cried one of his friends; "I mak siccar; "
and he immediately ran to the wounded rival of his
master and despatched him. Bruce, by this event,
was committed to open warfare ; and, unfurling his
standard against the opponents of his claims, he led
them on to Bannockburn, and there trod over their
bodies to the throne. After the assassination of
Comyn, the frequenters of the Greyfriars' chapel
deserted it, and began to resort to the chapel of St.
Michael, which stood on the site of the present St.
Michael's church. Edward I. of England, in the
course of his inroads into Scotland, occasionally
halted at Dumfries ; and here he ignominiously put
to death the brave patriot and brother-in-law of Ro-
bert Bruce, Christopher Seton. The scene of Seton's
execution was a mound or slight eminence at the
entrance of the town on the east, then and pre-
viously the gallows-hill or common place of public
execution, but now known as Kirsty's (Christo-
pher's) mount. Christian Bruce, the widow of Se-
ton, erected on the spot a chapel to his memory; and
her brother, King Robert, granted, in 1324, a hun-
dred shillings yearly out of the barony of Caerlave-
rock, for the support of a chaplain who should oflci
masses for the soul of the deceased. All vestiges <•(
the building, which was called St. Christopher's
chapel, have disappeared.
Dumfries castle was seized and garrisoned by Ed-
ward I., after he had dethroned John Baliol ; but
was retaken by Bruce after he had slain Comyn ;
and before 1312, it was once more seized by the Eng
lish, and was again, in that year, retaken by Bruce.
In 1307, Edward II. marched upon Dumfries, and
received the homage of several Scottish nobles. In
1396, the burgh obtained some important immunities
from Robert III.; in 1485, it received from James
III. a charter, confirming its privileges and posses-
sions; and in 1469, it obtained from the Crown all
the houses, gardens, revenues, and other possessions,
which had been the property of the Grey Friars.
During the troubles which so long harassed and de-
vastated the borders, Dumfries was frequently, in
spite of the brave resistance of its citizens, plun-
dered and burned. In 1536, one such disaster was
signally retaliated by Lord Maxwell, who made an
incursion into England, and reduced Penrith to
ashes ; and about the same period, either that noble-
man, or some member of his family, built a strong
castle for the defence of the town. In 1565, this
castle was surrendered to Queen Mary, when, at the
head of a portion of her troops, she visited the town
to reduce and castigate some of her disaffected no-
bility. In April, 1570, Lord Scroop, acting under
the Earl of Essex, made a devastating inroad upon
Dumfries-shire; and in spite of a brave resistance
on the part of the townsmen of the burgh, who
marched under the leading of Lord Maxwell to op-
pose him, he took and plundered the recently erected
castle, and set fire to the town. The citizens, har-
assed by frequent and heavy calamity from invasion
and rapine, felt aroused to attempt the rearing of
some strong rampart for their protection. In 1583,
they erected a strong building called the New Work,
which served the several purposes of a fortress, of a
retreat for the people, and of a repository for their
goods when they were beaten back by invaders.
No vestiges, however, either of this erection or of
the old castle, or of the castle built by the Maxwell
family, can now he traced. About the time, too,
when the New Wark was erected, or possibly at an
earlier period, a rude fortification or extended ram-
part, called the Warder's Dike, was thrown up on
the south-east side of the town, between the Nitli
and Lochar moss.
Dumfries was visited in 1617 by James VI., when
he was on his return to England; and it then re-
ceived from him 'the siller gun, ' to be shot for every
seventh year by the incorporated trades. During
the reign of Charles I. it shared largely in the disas-
ters which overspread the country ; and it shared still
more largely in those of the dark reign of Charles
II. On the 20th of November, 1706, 200 Cameron-
ians entered the burgh, published a manifesto against
the impending union of the two kingdoms, and burnt
the articles of union at the cross. The Covenanters
were indignant that the articles of union made no
recognition of their solemn league and covenant, but
on the other hand, recognised the constitution of
the church of England, which they had sworn to
overthrow and exterminate ; yet, notwithstanding
the intemperance and tumultuousness of their well-
meant proceedings, they happily did not succeed in
precipitating the town into any serious disaster.
During the insurrection of 1715, when Viscount
Kenmure encamped on the heights of Tinwald, and
menaced the burgh with his army, the war-cry of
DUMFEIES-SHIRE.
424
DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
I
n
' Alorburn' arose for the last time in the streets of
Dumfries ; and so loud was its sound, and startling
its reverberations, that the Viscount, without at-
tempting to execute his menaces, broke up his
camp, and marched away to Annan. During the
insurrection of 1745, a part of the citizens cut off
at Lockerby a detachment of the Highlanders' bag-
gage, and, in consequence, drew upon their town a
severer treatment from the Pretender than was in-
flicted on any other burgh of its size. Prince
Charles, on his return from England, let loose his
mountaineers to live at free quarters in Dumfries ;
and he levied the excise of the town, and demanded
of the citizens a contribution of 1,000 pairs of shoes,
and £2,000 sterling. An alarm having reached him
that the Duke of Cumberland had expelled his parti-
zans from Carlisle, and was marching rapidly on
Dumfries, he hastily broke away northward, accept-
ing for the present £1,100 of his required exaction,
and carrying with him Provost Crosby, and Mr.
Eiddell of Glenriddell, as hostages for the payment
of the remainder. The town suffered considerably
from the plunderings of his troops ; and is supposed
to have sustained, by his visit, damage to the amount
of £4,000 sterling. The King — to whom, in opposi-
tion to the Stuarts, the town was steadfastly at-
tached— afterwards granted, from the forfeited estate
of Lord Elcho, the sum of £2,800, to compensate in
part for the losses of the citizens, and express his ap-
robation of their loyalty. Since 1746, the burgh
as plenteously participated in the blessings of
peace and increasing enlightenment, and though
moving more slowly than some other towns in the
race of aggrandizement, has been excelled by none
in the gracefulness of its progress, and the steadi-
ness and substantial character of its improvement.
Dumfries gives the title of Earl in the Scottish
peerage, to the ancient family of Crichton of San-
quhar. In 1633, William, 7th Lord Crichton, was
created Earl of Dumfries, enjoying, at the same
time, the titles of Viscount of Ayr, Lord Crichton of
Sanquhar and Cumnock, and other honorary dis-
tinctions. In 1696, the earldom, owing to a want of
male heirs, passed to a female branch of the Crich-
ton family, who married a member of the family of
Dalrymple, and son of the 1st Earl of Stair. Wil-
liam Dalrymple, her eldest son, and 4th Earl of
Dumfries, afterwards succeeded to the Stair peer-
age. On his death the earldoms were again se-
parated,— that of Dumfries passing to his nephew,
Patrick Macdowall of Feugh. This last Earl's lien-
or inheritrix was a daughter, who married John
Stuart, eldest son of the Marquis of Bute. By a
royal licence the Bute family, the present pro-
prietors of the earldom, have assumed the name of
Crichton.
DUMFRIES HOUSE. See Cumnock (Old).
DUMFEIES-SHIRE, a large, important, and
beautiful county in the south of Scotland. It is
bounded on the north by the counties of Lanark,
Peebles, Selkirk, and Roxburgh ; on the east by
Cumberland ; on the south by the Solway frith ; on
the south-west by Kirkcudbrightshire ; on the west
by Kirkcudbrightshire and Ayrshire ; and on the
north-west by Ayrshire. In latitude it extends
from 55° 2', to 55° 31'; and in longitude from 2° 39',
to 3° 53', west from London. Its figure is irregu-
larly ellipsoidal: the greater diameter from the
mountain of Corsoncone on the border of Ayrshire,
to Liddel mount on the border of Roxburghshire, ill
a direction nearly south-east by east, measures
about 50 miles ; and the lesser diameter, from Loch
Craig on the confines of Peebles-shire, to the Solway
frith at Caerlaverock-castle, in a direction west of
south, measures about 32 miles. Its ellipsoidal
form, besides undulating in every part of the cir-
cumference, is indented to the depth of 10 miles by
the southern point of Lanarkshire, to the depth of
5 miles by Ettrick Head in Selkirkshire, and to the
depth of 3 miles by the point of Kirkcudbrightshire
which forms the parish of Terregles. Its circum-
ference, drawing the line across the waters at the
mouth of the estuaries of Nith and Annan, is about
174 miles, extending round a mountain-line of 120
miles, a champaign line on the east of 18, a line of sea-
shore from the Sark to the Nith of 21, and a cham-
paign line along the Nith and the Cluden on the south-
west of 15. The surface of the county, as recently
ascertained by the Ordnance survey, comprises 1,098
square miles. Dr. Singer's measurements, which
were derived, at a large cost to the landholders, from
the labours of a ten years' survey, and published in
his General View of the Agriculture of Dumfries-
shire, and which were long generally accepted as
very near the truth, gave only 1,006 square miles;
while other measurements, on which reliance was
sometimes placed, gave so much as 1,228 and even
1,800 square miles. For several miles on the south-
west, the county is divided from Kirkcudbrightshire
by Cairn water. From the point where that stream
ceases to touch it, all the way round its western,
northern, north-eastern, and eastern border, it is —
with the deduction of Liddesdale, or the parish of
Castleton, which, though sloping toward the south,
is included in Roxburghshire — marked off by the
highest elevations of the mountain-range which
breaks away westward from Cumberland and tra-
verses the south of Scotland. Falling in now with
Liddel-water, the boundary-line follows that stream
till its confluence with the Esk ; it thence, for
about a mile, follows the united rivers, and then,
for upwards of 3 miles, breaks due westward, through
an open country, till it strikes the Sark ; and fol-
lowing that stream to the sea, it afterwards runs
along the margin of the Solway frith and the es-
tuary of the Nith. The county is thus, with some
unimportant exceptions, shut in by natural geogra-
phical limits.
All the northern part of Dumfries-shire is very
mountainous, not only the summits of the water-
dividing line which bounds it, but the elevations of
the spurs which that range sends down toward its
lowlands, rising, in many instances, to a great height
above the level of the sea. Along the boundary
from west to east are Black Larg, 2,890 feet above
sea-level; Lowther, 3,130; Queensberry, 2,259;
Hartfell, 2,635, the highest mountain in the south
of Scotland ; Whitecoomb, nearly of equal altitude ;
Ettrick Pen, 2,220; Wisp-hill, 1,836; and Tinnis-
hill, 1,846. Radiating from the boundary moun-
tain range are spurs, which, in some instances, run
far down the county, decreasing, in their progress,
into hills, but which, in most instances, are short,
and allow the multitudinous head-waters, or moun-
tain-rivulets of the border, to find confluences with
one or other of three rivers which traverse the low-
lands of the county. Of the interior mountains, the
most remarkable are Cairnkinna and Glenquhargen
in Penpont, the former 2,080, and the latter 1,000
feet above sea-level ; Langholm-hill, between the
Esk and the Tarras, 1,204; and Brunswark-hill in
the parish of Hoddam, 740. Almost all the moun-
tains, whether on the boundary or in the interior,
have an inconsiderable basis, a rapid acclivity, and
summits, in some instances, round-backed or flat-
tened, in others conical, and in a few tabular or
flat. The peaked and towering summits, or sum-
mits of rugged and craggy outline, so common in
the Highland counties, are here unknown. Yet the
Dumfries alps are scarcely less grand or picturesque,
DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
425
DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
ami at intervals but a degree less savage, than those
of Argyle or Perth ; and they abound in sylvan ra-
vines and fairy nooks and retreats of scenic beauty
to which the" Highland alps are strangers. The
central or midland part of the county is exquisitely
diversified in scenery, and exhibits an attractive
blending of hill and valley, — the elevations pos-
sessing every variety of character, and often rising
to considerable altitude, and the lower grounds con-
sisting of slope, undulation, moorland, dell, and
holm ; so that a tourist traversing the district, no
matter in what direction, is continually stimulated
by novelty of view, and rapidly surveys the most
heterogeneous classes of attraction in landscape.
Down to the southern line of the midland district,
the county, after ceasing near the boundary to be
sectioned off into fragments by mountain-spurs, is
divided into three great valleys or basins, traversed
by the rivers Nith, Annan, and Esk. But that part
of the county which lies south of a line drawn from
Whinnyrig by Ecclefechan, Craigshaws, Solway
bank, and Broomholm to Moorburnhead, is com-
paratively low and flat, being only occasionally
marked by low hills, either round-backed or ob-
tusely conical. At this line, the basins of the Annan
and the Eak cease to be valleys, and are spread out
or flattened into plains. The valley of the Nith,
too, for 10 miles before it touches the Solway, is in
all respects a plain, with the exception of a short
range of low hills in the parish of Dumfries, a few
unimportant isolated eminences, and an amphithea-
tre of beautiful but not high hills, one side of which
divides the plain from the basin of the Annan, while
the other trends away into Galloway. A portion of
this plain of the Nith is the dead level of Lochar
moss. Dumfries -shire, sloping down from the
alpine heights of its cincturing boundary, and sub-
siding eventually into a plain, is Lombardy in
miniature, — differing from its beautiful Italian type,
chiefly in having a larger proportion of upland com-
pared to its champaign country.
From the configuration of the county, no streams
might be expected to flow into it from adjacent dis-
tricts, and none to flow out except to the sea. The
original waters of the Nith, however, as well as one
or two of the unimportant and remote tributaries of
that river, pass into the county through gorges or
openings on the west. All other waters, which any
where traverse it, well up within its own limits,
and expend all their resources in enriching its own
soil. The Nith, from the very point of entering it,
and the Annan and the Esk, from a short distance
south of their source, begin to draw toward them
nearly all the other streams, so as to form the county
into three great valleys or basins. All these three
rivers pursue a course to the eastward of south, the
Nith on the west, the Annan in the middle, and the
Esk on the east ; and, with the exception of some
small curvings, they flow parallel to one another, at
an average distance of about 12 miles, imposing upon
their own and their tributaries' basins the names re-
spectively of Nithsdale, Annandale, and Eskdale.
The streams which flow into them, though very
numerous, are, for the most part, of short course, of
small body of water, and remarkable only for the
beauty or picturesqueness of the ravines or dells
through which they pass. The chief of those which
enter the Nith are, from the west, the Kello, the
Euchan, the Scaur, the Caim, and the Cluden ;
and, from the east, the Crawick, the Minnick, the
Enterkin, the Carron, the Cample, and the Duncow.
The chief which enter the Annan are, from the west,
the Evan, and the A* ; and, from the east, the Mof-
fat, the Wamphray, the Dryfe, and the Milk. The
chief which enter the Esk are, on the west, the Black
Esk ; and, on the east, the Stennis, the Ewis, the
Tanas, and the Liddel . In addition to these streams
— which are all described in separate articles in our
work — and multitudinous smaller ones, but inde-
pendent of the three great rivers of the county, four
rivulets, each 10 miles or more in length, flow south-
ward, and fall into the Solway, — the Lochar and the
Pow in the space between the Nith and the Annan,
and the Kirtle and the Sark in the space between
the Annan and the Esk. Several of the upland and
tributary streams, like the parent rivers to whose
embrace they run, form, for a brief way, considerable
basins of their own, and impose upon them their
names. Ancient documents, and even the rustic na-
tives of the present day, talk frequently of Moffat-
dale, Dryfesdale, Ewisdale, and ' the lads of Ae.' —
Dumfries-shire possesses veiy few lakes, and these
of but small extent. The most remarkable are those
in the vicinity of Lochmaben, nine in number, the
largest fully 3 miles in circumference. Loch Skene,
too, at the source of Moffat water, is notable in con-
nection with its furnishing the stream which forms
the magnificent cataract called the ' Grey Mare's
Tail.' Salmon, herlings, parr or samlet, and sea-
trout, are found in the larger rivers; and pike, perch,
trout, and eels in the smaller. Fish in great abun-
dance, and, in one instance, of a strictly peculiar
species, are found also in the lakes. In the Nith
and the Annan, fishing for salmon, grilse, and whit-
ing or herling, commences on the 10th of March,
and closes on the 25th of September ; but as to the
period both of commencing and of closing, is gene-
rally considered to be a month too early. The fish-
eries of all the rivers are greatly injured by the kill-
ing of salmon in the spawning season, and by the
use of stake-nets in the Solway. — Springs of the
purest water exist in great numbers in the gravel
beds and fissured rocks of the mountain district of
Dumfries-shire. Of mineral waters in the county,
the chalybeate are most frequent, and are always
discovered by the oxide of iron which they deposit
round their lied. The most celebrated are a chaly-
beate near Annan ; another at the Brow, in the par-
ish of Ruthwell; a sulphur-spring at Closeburn-
house ; a chalybeate in a ravine of Hartfell moun-
tain ; and particularly the two springs, one sul-
phureous, and the other chalybeate, near the village
of Moffat.
Most of Dumfries-shire basks, with a southern
exposure, under the genial rays of the meridian sun.
The high mountain-range which, over so consider-
able a distance, environs it, softens the acerbity of
blasts from the north-west, north, and north-east.
Its southern or perfectly lowland division, is warmed
by the vicinity of the Solway, and hardly ever, in
any spot or in any intensity of frost, retains snow
for a week. Most of the rain which falls in the
county is accompained with mild winds from the
south or west, and differs widely from the chilling
distillations which annoy the eastern coasts of the
kingdom. Snow, though capping the alpine sum-
mits on the boundary, does not remain very long on
even the mountain faces of Dumfries-shire. Mois-
ture, however, is somewhat abundant, coming more
freely from the Atlantic than, on the eastern coast,
it does from the German ocean. Bains prevail most
towards the beginning of August and the end of
September, and are then well-known under the
names of the Lammas and the equinoctial floods ;
and they also, not infrequently, fall long and heavily
during the months of winter. The prevailing winds
blow, in summer and autumn, from the west and
the south ; and, in spring and winter, from the east
and the north. The heat often rises, in summer,
above 70° Fahrenheit, and has been known to raise
DUMFKIES-SHIKE.
426
DUMFRLES-SHIRE.
the thermometer to 92° in the shade ; hut in the
average of the year, it is believed to be about 45°.
The climate, as regards salubrity, is in general
thought good.
Hares, in many districts, are very abundant. Rab-
bits also are found ; but they are few in number, and
have not any regular warren. Foxes have here re-
treats, whence they occasionally sally to plunder the
poultry-yard ; and they afford considerable employ-
ment to hounds, and sport to huntsmen. The red
deer and the capercailzie, which formerly were met
with in Dumfries-shire, are now extinct. Two or
three forest-deer were not long ago discovered at
Raehills, and have been protected and propagated ;
but they are believed to have strayed from the hills of
Lanarkshire. At a former period, indeed, the forest-
deer, though for a time extinct, was very abundant;
and it is frequently found inhumed in the morasses.
Pheasants, grouse, black game, partridges, and other
game birds, and also the woodcock, the curlew, the
plover, the snipe, and the lapwing, are very plentiful.
A brown or reddish coloured sandstone, dipping
generally toward the Solway, and supposed to be a
continuation of the red marl formation of Cumber-
land, stretches athwart the southern part of Dum-
fries-shire ; and proceeding northward, merges in a
reddish-coloured limestone, succeeded first by blue
limestone and coarse white sandstone, and next by
mandlestone rock and primitive formations contain-
ing metallic ores. Near Dumfries and Lochmahen
the sandstone is red; near Langholm and Sanquhar,
it is grey ; and at Cove, near Kirtle water, it is of
light colour and solid texture, affording a fine mate-
rial for pillars. The sandstone, where it crops out,
is frequently incohesive, and is called tillband ; but
by being followed in its dip, it is usually found suffi-
ciently compact to be used for ridge-stones. In
each of the three great divisions of the county, lime-
stone is worked in large quantities for sale. In
Annandale the quarries are most numerous, but are
each greatly inferior to the quarry of Closeburn in
Nithsdale. At Kelhead the lime rock, which is of
the first quality, is from 12 to 24 feet thick, and is
said to yield 95 parts out of 100 of carbonate of lime.
Ironstone has been found in spheroidal masses, asso-
ciated with limestone, and exists also in detached
masses in wet hogs ; but it has not hitherto been
worked. Marble has been worked at Springkell,
Kelhead, and other places, and employed for some
useful and ornamental purposes. Veins of slate
are found in Evandale and the parish of Moffat; hut,
in the former case, are too schistous, and in the latter
too inconveniently situated, to be of practical value.
Coal, though supposed, in continuation of the coal-
field of Cumberland, to stretch at a great depth under
the red strata of the shores and valleys of Nithsdale
and Annandale , and though seemingly, in some parts,
forced up near the surface, and often laboriously
searched for by boring, is found in a workable state
only in the parishes of Sanquhar and Canobie, at the
extremities of the county. The coal of Sanquhar is
probably connected with the coal-field of Ayrshire ;
that of Canobie affords a supply of about 25,000 tons
per annum ; yet Dumfries-shire is, for the most part,
obliged to supply itself with eoal from Cumberland, or
to find a succedaneum for it in the produce of Lochar
nioss and other hogs. Extensive lead-mines, the
most productive in Britain, are worked at Wanlock-
head, on the north-east boundary of the parish of
Sanquhar. The galena or ore yields from 74 to 80
per cent., is contained in veins of from a few inches
to 1 5 feet thick, and, during a period of 50 years,
yielded 47,420 tons. Silver is extracted from this
ore in the proportion of from 6 to 12 ounces in the
ton. Lead ore has been found also, but not worked
in the parishes of Penpont, Johnstone, St. Mungo,
and Langholm. Gold occurs in the mountains around
Wanlockhead. either in veins of quartz, or in the
sand washed down by the rivulets. In the reign of
James V., 300 men are said to have been employed
there during several summers, and to have collected
gold to the value of £100,000 sterling; and either
they or subsequent searchers have left monuments
of their diligence, in the artificial mounds of sand
which overlook the gold-bearing streams. The lar-
gest piece of gold ever found at Wanlockhead, is in
the British museum, and weighs 4 or 5 ounces. Not
many years ago, two pieces were picked up which
weighed respectively 60 and 90 grains. An anti-
mony mine, the only one in Scotland, was dis-
covered in 1760 at Glendinning, in the parish of
Westkirk; and, from 1793 till 1798, produced 100
tons of the regulus of antimony, worth £8,400 ster-
ling. The ore is a sulphuret, and yields about 50
per cent., and forms a vein seldom exceeding 20
inches in thickness, and combining blende, calca-
reous spar, and quartz. Copper-ore is said to have
been found, but not in considerable quantity, in the
toadstone in the parish of Middlebie. Manganese
occurs in small quantities in nests or heaps. Gyp-
sum is found in thin veins. Loose blocks of sienite
are found all over the low part of the county.
Greenstone, greywacke, and greywacke slate, com •
pose the rocks of many of the hills. Floetz-trap is
found, generally in the shape of mountain-caps, on
the summits of the mountains. Basaltic or whin-
stone rocks occur in various localities, and exhibit
some fine specimens in the mountains near Moffat.
The soil, in the lower parts of Dumfries-shire, Is
in general light, and underlaid with rock, gravel, or
sand. In some places, where it has a subsoil reten-
tive of water, it is cold, and occasions rankness of
vegetation. In Nithsdale and Annandale it is for
the most part dry; but in Eskdale it is in general
wet. A gravelly or sandy soil prevails on the ridges
or knolls of the valleys and even of the bogs. Moor
soil abounds in the mountain-districts, and wherever
there is white-stone land ; but when its subsoil is
dry, it is capable of gradual transmutation into loam.
A loamy soil, rich in vegetable mould, covers con-
siderable tracts in the lower southern district, and
is interspersed with other soils on the gentle slopes
of the midland district. Alluvial soils — called in
other parts of Scotland haugh-land, but here called
holm - land — abound along the margins of the
streams ; and in general are shallow and poor in the
upland dells, and deep and rich in the lowlands.
Clay, as a soil, seldom occurs, except as mixed with
other substances; but, as a subsoil, is extensively
found, either white, blue, or red, under the green
sward of ridges, and beneath soft hogs. Peat-moss
exists, in great fields, both on the hills and in the
vales; and, wherever drainage can be practised, is
such as may be converted into soil. Sleech, or the
saline and muddy deposition of the waters of the
Solway, spreads extensively out from the estuary of
the Lochar, and is not only productive in itself, but
affords an effective top-dressing for the adjacent
peat-moss.
Estates are held either of the Crown, or of a sub-
ject superior, who may or may not have property in
the county ; and, in either case, they may be laid
under entail for an unlimited period, and in favour
of heirs yet unborn. Kindly tenures, or possessions
of land as the king's kindly tenants, subject to the
annual payment of a small fixed sum to an officer of
royal appointment, exist in the vicinity of the castle
of Lochmahen, and present an anomaly any resem-
blance to which in Scotland is found only in Orkney.
Feu- holding, which involves perpetuity of right and
DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
427
DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
full power of alienation, but is subject to an annual
payment quite or nearly equal to the fair rent of the
soil, is confined chiefly to the burghs. Burgage-
holding extends over considerable tracts of land
around Dumfries, Annan, Lochmaben, and Sanquhar.
Long leases of small portions or plots of land — pro-
vincially but inaccurately called feus — are every-
where common; and, being granted with a view to
building, embody in a degree the idea of property.
Farms of arable land are generally let on leases of
15, 19, or 21 years; and those of sheep-pasture, on
leases of 9 or 13. A stipulation is made, in most
instances, that not more than one-third of the arable
land shall, at one period, be under white crops ; and,
in other instances, that the four-field or six-field
course of husbandry shall be practised. But leases
are of various forms, and not very rigidly observed
in their conditions. Pasture-farms are usually en-
tered at Whitsunday, and arable-farms in autumn
after the removal of the crop. Kents are paid, one-
half at Whitsunday, and the other at Martinmas.
Sheep-farms vary in size from 300 to 3,000 acres,
and pay, on the average, about 4s. per acre of rent.
Arable farms vary from 50 to 600 acres, a large pro-
portion of them being from 100 to 150; and they
pay from £1 to £5 per acre, — the average for good
land being about £3 10s. Some farms — though
only an inconsiderable proportion, and chiefly in the
midland district — are both pastoral and arable, and
are regarded as particularly convenient and remu-
nerating.
The agricultural capacities of Dumfries - shire
were long under- estimated and neglected, and did
not begin to be fairly developed till the year 1760.
Charles, Duke of Queensberry, who died in 1778,
greatly improved his property in Nithsdale and An-
nandale, — the largest property in the county. The
Earl of Hopetoun laid the basis of extensive pros-
perity in the pastoral uplands of Annandale; and
by abolishing thirlage to his mills, and giving ad-
vantageous leases to the farmers, spread a new and
rich carpeting over the lowlands of his property.
The Duke of Buccleuch, grandfather to the present
Duke, succeeded, by skill and liberality, and by
bearing the chief expense of the great road leading
from England along the Esk, in diffusing agricultural
energy over his extensive possessions in Eskdale.
Sir John Heron Maxwell and Mr. Pulteney Malcolm
introduced new and effective methods of husbandry
into considerable districts on the southern plain.
J. J. Hope Johnstone of Annandale, Esq., drew ex-
cited and profitable attention to improvements in the
breed of cattle, and set a high example to landlords
in a liberal treatment of his tenants. Menteath of
Closeburn, however, on an estate of 10 miles by 8,
achieved improvements which have provoked the
emulation and aroused the energies of the whole
county. By drainage, by the free but judicious use
of lime, by irrigation, and by a wise and handsome
treatment of servants, he converted mimic wilder-
nesses into gardens, and raised the value of some
land from 5 shillings to £4 10s., and £5.
Crops are cultivated of various kinds, and in vari-
ous orders of rotation. In the uplands, and recently
reclaimed grounds, wheat is not an object of atten-
tion. Farmers, in the best districts, differ consider-
ably in their modes of culture ; some skilfully en-
deavouring to suit a permanent course of cropping
and of management to the peculiarities of the soil ;
and others labouring, by ingenious or experimental
changes in the genera of the crops, and in the order
of their rotation, to extract from the soil, its maxi-
mum of productiveness, without, at the same time,
doing damage to its energies. A rotation of frequent
occurrence is, first, oats, — next, potatoes or turnips.
the latter fed oft' by sheep, — next, wheat or barley,
sown with grass-seeds, — next, hay, — and finally, for
three years, pasture. Both for home-consumption
and for exportation, oats and potatoes are more plen-
tifully cultivated than any other crop. The culture
both of potatoes and of turnips — particularly the
latter — very greatly increased in the second and
third decads of the present century, and waB found
to be a valuable improvement. Potatoes are in
much request for the fattening of pigs and cattle.
On ground of difficult access, and generally on up-
land farms, bone-dust is advantageously used in en-
riching the soil ; and in fact, so far back as fifteen
or twenty years ago, this manure, throughout entire
districts, came into general use, and was an object
of considerable mercantile or productive speculation.
Other special manures, together with all the re-
cent feasible appliances of improvement, have also
bee^.very largely tried. Implements of husbandry,
and all the appliances of the farm-yard, are the
same as those in other agricultural counties. The
Dumfries-shire farmers, however, even twenty years
ago, had very generally thrown away the sickle, in
the reaping of their crops, and adopted in its stead
a small scythe. Most of the farm-houses, including
all of recent erection, are built of stone and lime,
roofed over with slate, and are commodious and
well-arranged. Plantations and pleasure-grounds
abound in the lower parts of the county, and are
everywhere remarkable for their beauty and opu-
lence.
The mountainous division of Dumfries- shire is
employed in pasturage; and is stocked, partly with
black cattle, but principally with sheep. The cattle
of Eskdale are, in general, larger than any others in
the county. All farmers, however, who purchase
cattle for breeding, endeavour to introduce the beau-
tiful and much-valued form of the true Galloway
cattle. Their prevailing colour is black, and their
weight from 32 to 55 stone. The Ayrshire breed,
however, is in general favour for the dairy. The
mountain-flocks of sheep consist either of Cheviots,
or of black faces with short wool. But most of the
sheep of the lowland tracts are of mixed breed, —
the Cheviots having been crossed with the Leicester
sheep, the South Downs, and the Negretto and Paular
breeds of Spain. A peculiarity in the store-farming
of Dumfries-shire, is its rearing an enormous num-
ber of pigs. In the year 1770 not more than £500
value was received in the produce of pork ; but so
far back as 1812 it had risen to about £50,000 a-
year; and since then, it has very greatly increased.
The pork is excellently cured, and sent off in bacon
to most of the leading markets of England. Poul-
try of all sorts, and bees, are objects of inferior at-
tention.
Dumfries-shire, though conducting an extensive
export trade in oxen, sheep, pigs, corn, wool, and
skins, is not strictly a commercial, much less a ma-
nufacturing county Its sea-ports are the scenes of
a sea-ward traffic exceedingly small in proportion
to its intrinsic importance and productive capacities :
See articles Annan and Dumfries. Woollen and
linen manufactures, though frequently tried in the
county, have but recently been naturalized, and are
still very limitedly successful. At Sanquhar, and
the vicinity, ginghams, Thibets, and tartans are
woven. At Dumfries and at Annan, coarse ging-
hams are largely manufactured, chiefly for the
Carlisle market. Wages, however, have greatly
declined. The average amount of a weaver's work,
per week, will not exceed one cut, or 60 yards of
coarse gingham, for which he only receives 6s. 6d.,
with Is. extra, if approved, making 7s. 6d. But out
of this he has to make payments which leave him
DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
428
DUMFRIES-SHIEE.
1-
ii
not above 5s. 3d. clear, on 6 days' work of 1 1 hours
er day. Females employed in hand-sewing imis-
in collars, and seaming stockings, earn about 2s.
perweek; andin winding, from Is. 6d. to 2s. About
50 years ago, weavers in this county might have
made 35s. per week; though in fact — such were
their habits of dissipation — they seldom made above
10s. Such energies as in other localities would be
directed to manufacturing and mercantile enterprise,
are here almost all employed in subordination to the
direct and accessory pursuits of agriculture. Yet
great improvements, from a concurrence of agencies,
and a co-operation of favourable influences, have
taken place, since the commencement of the present
century, upon the condition and habits of the popu-
lation. Smiling cottages, neater and cleaner than
anywhere else in Scotland, — moorlands, richly cul-
tivated to the base, and even up the acclivities, of
mountains, — a soil, arrayed in the gayest dress, and
laden with luxuriance, — roads, churches, school-
houses, fences, rural elothing and popular manners,
convenient, beautiful or refined in character, — all
attest the high though tranquil prosperity which
Dumfries-shire has attained.
The county is intersected in every direction with
excellent roads. The two Carlisle and Glasgow
turnpikes traverse it from Sarkbridge respectively
through Annan, Dumfries, Thornhill, and Sanquhar,
— and through Ecclefechan, Lockerby, Dinwoodie-
Green, and Beattock ; the Dumfries and Edinburgh
turnpike, northward by way of Moffat ; the Carlisle
and Edinburgh turnpike, along the vales of the Esk
and the Ewes ; and the Dumfries and Ayr turnpike,
north-westward through Dunscore and Glencairn.
Cross-roads wend along every valley, or stretch out-
ward on the straight line, from village to village ;
and, in general, they have been much improved,
and are kept in good repair. Safe and easy com-
munications have been opened also through several
parts of the alpine districts. The main trunk of
the Caledonian railway traverses the county, down
the valley of the Annan, and on toward the Sark
above the head of the Solway frith ; the Glasgow
and Southwestern railway traverses the county
down the valley of the Nith to Dumfries, and thence
east-south-eastward to a junction with the Caledo-
nian in the vicinity of Gretna; the Dumfries and
Castle-Douglas railway deflects from this at Dum-
fries, and makes a curve within the county before
entering Galloway ; and the Dumfries and Lockerby
railway, which was authorized in 1860, and to be
completed within four years, will go from Dumfries
eastward by way of Lochmaben, into junction with
the Caledonian at Lockerby.
Besides the fairs and cattle-markets of the town
of Dumfries, there are fairs for lambs, at Langholm,
26th July; and at Lockerby, 16th August and 16th
October, excepting when the date falls on Saturday,
Sunday, or Monday, and then on the Tuesday fol-
lowing;— for sheep, at Langholm, 18th September;
for tups, sheep, lambs, and wool, at Sanquhar, 17th
July, if Friday, and if not, on Friday following ; —
for tups, at Moffat, in the latter end of June ; at
Annan, in May and October; at Moffat, in March
and October; and at Lockerby, in April. There
are also fairs of a general kind or for hiring purposes
at Lochmaben, Thornhill, Ecclefechan, Minnihive,
Penpont, and some of the places already named, the
dates of which will be found noted in our articles on
the several towns.
The royal burghs in Dumfries-shire are Dumfries,
Annan, Lochmaben, and Sanquhar. The burghs of
barony are Moffat, Lockerby, Langholm, Eccle-
fechan, Thornhill, and Minnihive. The other prin-
cipal villages are Springfield, Glencaple, Torth-
orwald, Eoucan, Collin, Penpont, Kirkconnel, Kirtle-
bridge, Waterbeck, Dornoch, Cummertrees, Ruth-
well, Clarencefield, Hightae, Mousewald, Closeburn,
Holywood, Kelton, Locharbriggs, Amisfield, Dal-
swinton, Carron-bridge, and Crawick-mill. There
are numerous hamlets. Some of the principal man-
sions are Drumlanrig-Castle and Langholm-Lodge,
the Duke of Buccleuch; Kinmount, Glenstewart-
House, and Tinwald-House, the Marquis of Queens-
berry; Comlongan-Castle, the Earl of Mansfield;
Rachills, J. J. H. Johnstone of Annandale ; Spring-
kell, Sir J. H. Maxwell, Bart.; Jardinehall, Sir
Wm. Jardine, Bart.; Colstoun-Park, Sir Richard
Brown, Bart.; Rockhall, Sir Alexander Grierson,
Bart. ; Westerhall, Sir F. J. W. Johnstone, Bart. ;
Amisfield, Charteris, Esq. ; Closeburn-Hall, Doug-
las Baird, Esq.; Terregles-House, W. C. Maxwell
of Nithsdale; Mossknow, William Graham, Esq.;
Halleaths, Andrew Johnstone, Esq. ; Mount An-
nan, Lieut. -Col. J. Dirom; Dalswinton, J. M.
Leny, Esq.; Maxwelltown; Craigdarroch, Drum-
crieff ; Murraythwaite ; Barjarg-Tower ; Black-
wood-House ; Hoddam-Castle ; and Broomholm.
Dumfries-shire originally comprehended, in addi-
tion to its own ample territory, the stewartry of
Kirkcudbright ; and, in the reign of William I., was
placed under a sheriff. But, during a considerable
period, its sheriffs had only a nominal authority be-
yond the limits of Nithsdale. From the reign of
David I. till that of Robert Bruce, both Annandale
and Eskdale were under independent baronial juris-
diction,— the latter on the part of various proprie-
tors, and the former on the part of Robert Brace's
ancestors. The county consisted then strictly of
the sheriffship of Nithsdale, the stewartry of Annan-
dale, and the regality of Eskdale; and was parti-
tioned off very nearly, according to the water-lines
of the three principal rivers by which it is traversed.
Bruce, on receiving the Scottish crown, made great
alterations in the civil polity of his kingdom, and
paved the way for hereditary sheriffships and local
jurisdictions. By an act passed 20th of George II.,
Dumfries-shire assumed the status and the jurisdic-
tion which it has since maintained. The county
town is Dumfries. The sheriff court for the county,
and the commissary court, are held there every
Tuesday and Friday during session; the sheriff
small debt court every Friday during session, and
on the same days that ordinary courts are held in
vacations; and the justice of peace small debt court
every Monday. The courts under the sheriff small
debt act are held at Annan, Langholm, Lockerby,
Moffat, Thornhill, and Sanquhar. The valued rental
in 1674 was £158,502 Scots. The annual value of
real property, as assessed in 1815, was £295,621;
as assessed in 1861, £350,636. The assessment in
1861 for respectively rogue-money and prisons was
-fg and -fg of a penny per £1. The average yearly
number of crimes committed was 71 in 1836-40, 96
in 1841-45, 209 in 1846-50, 141 in 1851-55, and 99
in 1856-60. The number of prisoners in Dumfries
jail during the year July 1859 — June 1860, was
320; and the average duration of their confinement
was 21 days. The number of registered poor in
1863-64 was 2,165, and of casual poor, 3,289; and
the amount expended for the former was £12,964,
and for the latter, £939. The county returns a
member to parliament. Constituency in 1865, 2,144.
Population in 1801, 54,597; in 1811, 62,960; in
1821,70,878; in 1831, 73,770; in 1841, 72,830; in
1861, 75,878. Males in 1861, 35,674; females,
40,204. Inhabited houses in 1861, 13,192; unin-
habited, 373; building, 91.
Till the epoch of the Reformation, Dumfries-shire
formed part of the extensive diocese of Glasgow, and
DUMFRIES-SIIIRE.
429
DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
was divided into the two deaneries of Nithsdale and
Annandale. The synod of Dumfries not only em-
braces the whole county, but extends its jurisdiction
considerably into coterminous districts ; and consists
of five presbyteries, Dumfries, Lochmaben, Annan,
Penpont, and Langholm. The presbytery of Annan
has 9 parishes, and that of Penpont 9, all within
the county; the presbytery of Langholm, 7, one of
which is in Roxburghshire ; the presbytery of Loch-
maben, 13, small parts of two of which are in Lan-
arkshire; and the presbytery of Dumfries, 19, ten
of which are in Kirkcudbrightshire. The total
number of parishes in Dumfries-shire is thus 46.
The number of places of worship in it, in 185], was
49 belonging to the Established church, 21 belong-
ing to the Free church, 20 belonging to the United
Presbyterians, 6 belonging to the Reformed Pres-
byterians, 2 belonging to the Episcopalians, 2 be-
longing to the Independents, 2 belonging to the
Baptists, 2 belonging to the Wesleyan Methodists,
I belonging to the Evangelical Union, and 2 belong-
ing to the Roman Catholics. The number of sit-
tings in 30 of the Established places of worship was
17,905; in 18 of the Free church places of worship,
9,320; in the 20 United Presbyterian meeting-
houses, 10,431; in 3 of the Reformed Presbyterian
meeting-houses, 1,215; inthe2 Episcopalian chapels,
440; in the 2 Independent chapels, 614; in one of
the Baptist chapels, 100; in the 2 Methodist chapels,
405; and in the 2 Roman Catholic chapels, 1,100.
The number of attendants at the morning service of
the Census Sabbath in 1851, at 27 of the Established
places of worship, was 5,974; at 20 of the Free
church places of worship, 4,S98; at the 20 United
Presbyterian meeting-houses, 4,660; at 3 of the
Reformed Preshyterian meeting-houses, 1,028; at
the 2 Episcopalian chapels, 212; at the 2 Indepen-
dent chapels, 277; at the 2 Baptist chapels, 66; at
one of the Methodist chapels, 63 ; at the Evangeli-
cal Union chapel, 100; and at the 2 Roman Catholic
chapels, 1,047. There were, in 1851, in Dumfries-
shire, 108 public day schools, attended hy 5,073
males and 3,373 females, — 68 private day schools,
attended by 1,349 males and 1,554 females, — 7 even-
ing schools for adults, attended by 114 males and
96 females, — and 111 Sabbath schools, attended by
4,423 males and 4,502 females.
Dumfries-shire, in common with a large part of
Galloway, was, at the period of the Roman invasion,
A. x>. 80, inhabited by the tribe called the Selgovre.
The Romans included it in what they termed the
province of Valentia. After they withdrew, it re-
mained for a season in a state of independence; hut
subsequently was overrun hy Ida and the Angles;
and, during two centuries, formed a part of the new
kingdom which they founded. Vast multitudes of
immigrants poured into it, in the meantime, from
among the Cruithne of Ireland and the Scoto-Irish
of Kintyre, and raised up with the natives the mon-
grel breed of Picts. This hardy, though hetero-
1 geneous race, hurst the yoke of foreign domination,
and restored the district to a condition of rude inde-
pendence. Edgar, after his accession in 1097, abo-
lished the system of local governments, and estab-
lished the Anglo-Norman dynasty, dividing Scotland
into lordships. At his death, Dumfries-shire, in
common with Cambria, in which it had become in-
cluded, passed, by his bequest, to his youngest bro-
ther, David. Having become the adopted home of
many opulent Anglo-Norman barons, whom David
invited hither as settlers, Cambria was now parti-
tioned into extensive baronies, and enjoyed the lux-
ury of an apparently fair administration of justice.
Nithsdale was possessed by a powerful chief, called
Donegal, of Celtic ancestry, whose descendants as-
sumed the name of Edgar; Eskdale was subdivided
among Asenals, Sonlises, Rossedalls, and others,
who figured briefly and obscurely in their country's
annals ; and Annandale was possessed by Robert de
Bruce, a chief of skill and valour, whose descendants
afterwards wore the Scottish crown. The Bruces
had many lands and castles in the county ; but dur-
ing the 12th and 13th centuries, resided chiefly in
the castle of Lochmaben. Lesser proprietors in
Annandale held of the Bruces as retainers, such as
the Kirkpatricks of Kirkpatriek, the Johnstones of
Johnstone, the Carlyles of Torthorwald, and the
Carnocs of Trailflat and Drumgrey. But, inde-
pendently of any of the great barons, the ancestors
of the present house of Maxwell held the castle and
lands of Caerlaverock ; and, in the same way, Sir
John Comyn held lands which, including the estate
of Duncow, stretched round Dumfries to the south-
east till they touched the Nith at Castledykes. In
1264, Alexander III. advanced to Dumfries with a
large army, and thence despatched John Comyn and
Alexander Stewart to the isle of Man to subjugate
it to Scotland. In the wars of Bruce and Baliol,
Dumfries-shire was placed between two fires; or,
to use a different figure, it nursed at its breasts both
of the competitors for royalty; and from the nature
of its position, bearing aloft the Bruce in its right
arm and the Comyn in its left, it was peculiarly
exposed to suffering. Located as the baronial pos-
sessions of Bruce were in Annandale, and those of
Baliol in Nithsdale, Dumfries-shire was necessarily
the scene, if not of the most decisive, at least of the
earliest and the most harassing struggles of the
belligerents. Bruce, after the victory of Bannock-
burn had put him into undisputed possession of the
kingdom, gave the Comyns' manor of Duncow to
Robert Boyd, and their manor of Dalswinton to
Walter Stewart; he bestowed on Sir Thomas Ran-
dolph his own lordship of Annandale and castle of
Lochmaben, and created him Earl of Moray; and
he conferred on Sir James Douglas, in addition to
the gift of all Douglasdale, the greater part of Esk-
dale and other extensive possessions in Dumfries-
shire.
In the troubles and warfare which occurred under
David II., between the BrucianB and the Baliols,
this county was again the chief seat of strife and dis-
aster. Nor did it suffer less in degree, while it suf-
fered longer in duration under the proceedings of the
rebellious Douglases, who, after being introduced to
it by Robert Bruce, grew, by various ramifications of
descent and acquisition, to be its most potent barons.
On the attainder of this family in 1455, their au-
thority and possessions reverted to the Crown, and
were in part bestowed on the Earl of March. In
1484, the county was invaded by the exiled Earl of
Douglas and the Duke of Albany ; and thence, dur-
ing a century and a half, it appears never to have
enjoyed a few years of continuous repose. So late
as 1607, the private forces of Lord Maxwell and
the Earl of Morton were led out to battle on its
soil, and were with difficulty prevented from track-
ing it with blood. During, in fact, the entire period
from its assuming an organized form till the union of
the Scottish and the English crowns, Dumfries-shire,
from being situated on the border, was peculiarly
exposed to hostile incursions and predatory warfare.
Some of its children distinguished themselves by
deeds of patriotic bravery; and others, for many
generations, subsisted entirely on spoil and pillage.
Under James VI., the county sat down in quietude,
and began to wear a dress of social comeliness ; but
again, during the reign of the Charleses, was agi-
tated with broils and insurrections. In the rebel-
lions of 1715 and 1745 — especially in the latter— it
DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
430
DUN.
was the scene of numerous disasters, — disquiet and
consternation spreading here, more perhaps than in
any other district of Scotland, among the middle and
lower classes of the population. Of the aristocrats,
a large proportion were imhued with the spirit, and
a considerable number shared the ruin, of Jacobitism.
The Maxwells, in particular, were utterly destroyed
by the attainder of the Earl of Nithsdale in 1715;
and, at the eras of both rebellions, several other
families of note became, as to their possessions
and influence, extinct. In more recent times, the
Douglases of Queensberry, and the Johnstones of
Annandale, have merged into other families. At
present, the noble house of Buccleuch is by far the
ascendant family of the county, and possesses pro-
perty, ecclesiastical patronage, and other appurten
antes of rank and social grandeur, almost too great
to be employed, except in very judicious hands, be-
nignly for the well-being of the community.
A line of Roman road, proceeding northward, an-
ciently entered Dumfries-shire across the Liddel, and
wended along the east side of the Esk to Castle O'er
and Kaeburnfoot in Eskdalemuir. Another and
more important line entered the county across the
Sark at Borrowslacks, advanced to the westward of
Bmnswark-hill, crossed the river Milk at the Drove
ford, between Scroggs and the bridge, proceeded by
Lockerby and Torwood-moor, across the Dryfe a
little way above its confluence with the Annan, and
here divided into two branches, the one stretching
northward through Annandale, and the other west-
ward into Nithsdale. Of these two branches, the
former, or the main line, wended along the east side
of the Annan, passed Dinwoodie green and Girth-
head, crossed the Wamphray water, and northward
at Burnfoot crossed the Annan to the Boman in-
tvenchments at Tassie's holm ; it then crossed the
Evan, advanced by the farm of Dyke, ascended the
ridge of Loch-house, and passed on to the top of
Errickstane-brae, advancing to Newton in Lanark-
shire. The second or westward line of the main
load, proceeded from the point of its divergence in
Dryfesdale across the Annan, by Amisfield house,
Duncow, and Dalswinton, advanced up the east side
of the Nith by Thornhill, crossed Carron water,
turned then away northward, entered and traversed
the defile called the Wellpath, in the mountains
above Durrisdeer, and there passed into the basin or
vale of the Powtrail in Lanarkshire, afterwards to
rejoin at Crawford castle, the line which had tra-
versed Annandale. Some inferior side -branches
struck off from these central lines. One diverged
from the westward branch, through Kirkmichael, to
what is now the glebe of that parish, and where
there seems to have been a Boman station ; and an-
other turned off to the west from the Nithsdale road,
crossed the Nith, and passed through Tynron by
Scaur water. The most remarkable stations con-
nected with the roads, are those of Brunswark,
Castle O'er, and Raebumfoot, together with Agrico-
la's camp on Torwood-moor near Lockerby. In many
places are Roman encampments, circular and square
fortifications, cairns or barrows, vestiges of towers,
and moats or artificial mounts, which are supposed
to have been the seats of popular judicial assemblies.
The most remarkable towers are at Amisfield, Lag,
Achincass, Robgill, and Lochwood ; and the largest
and most beautiful moat is at Roekhall, near Loch-
maben. Remains or vestiges of druidical temples
exist in the parishes of Gretna, Esdalemuir, Holy-
wood, Wamphray, and Moffat. A remarkable an-
tiquity, supposed to be of Anglo-Saxon origin, is
the cross of Markland, found in the churchyard of
Ruthwell. The principal ancient castles, are those
of Caerlaverock, Torthorwald, Closebum, Morton,
and Sanquhar, in Nithsdale ; Achincass, Hoddanj,
Comlongan, and Lochwood, in Annandale; and
Wauchope and Langholm, in Eskdale. In various
places, are vestiges of ancient monasteries. Through-
out the country, vast quantities of ancient coins,
medals, and pieces of armour have been found.
DUMGLOW. SeeCLEisH.
DUMGOIAC. See Dunblane.
DUMGREE, a quondam parish in the upper part
of Annandale, Dumfries-shire. The greater part
of it was annexed to Kirkpatrick-Juxta, and the
rest to Johnstone. The church-yard of it, unen-
closed, may still be seen within Kirkpatrick-Juxta.
DUMMITORMONT. See Deummitoemon.
DUN, any mound, isolated hill, or small hill-
ridge, fitted either naturally or artificially to serve
for military defence. The name is both Celtic and
Latin, — dun in the former case, dunum in the latter ;
and was used in the early times of Scotland to desig-
nate either a naturally strong eminence, a fortified
hill, or any kind of isolated fortress or castle. The
name still occurs in Scottish topography, — sometimes
by itself, as in the case of the parish of Dun, — oftener
in apposition, as in the instances, Dun of Boreland,
Dun of Fintry, and many others, — and still oftener
in prefix, as in the case of threescore places, or
more, which are prominent enough to require full
description in our ordinary alphabetical order. The
prefix, for the sake of euphony, is sometimes, as in
the case of Dumbarton and Dumfries, changed into
Dum. The combination of it with its affixes has
reference sometimes to persons, as in Dunnichen,
' the hill of Nechtan,' who was a Pictish chieftain,—
Dunblane, ' the hill of St. Blain,1 who was a Culdee
missionary ; sometimes to events, as in Dundee,
1 the hill of God,' alluding probably to Druidical
worship, — Dunipace, either Celtically ' the hill of
death,' or Latinically ' the hill of peace,' alluding
probably to a great sanguinary conflict, or to a
treaty of pacification which followed it ; and some-
times to topographical features, as in Dumfries,
Dun-phreas, ' the hill-fort of shrubs,' — Dunferm-
line, Dun-fiar-linne, ' the hill-fort upon the crooked
pool.' — The name Drum, which also is used both
by itself and as a prefix, is a Celtic one near akin
to Dun, and signifying a ridge or a small isolated
hill, but without any reference to fortification.
DUN, a parish in the north-east of Forfarshire.
Its post-town is Montrose. It is bounded on the
north by Strickathrow and Logiepert ; on the east
by the parish of Montrose, and Montrose basin ; on
the south by the river South Esk, which divides it
from Marytown and Farnell ; and on the west by
Breehin. It is of nearly a square figure, with
points running off at two of its angles ; and mea-
sures in extreme length and breadth about 4 miles,
and in superficial area about 12 square miles. Along
the banks of the South Esk and the shore of Mon-
trose basin the surface is low, flat, protected by
embankments, and of a clayey fertile loam. A lit-
tle northward, and up to the centre of the parish,
the surface gently and gradually rises, carpeted with
a fine productive soil of blackish mould. From the
centre to the northern boundary the surface ceases
to rise, and, excepting a considerable tract which is
covered with plantation, is, in general, wet and
miry. Two brooks of local origin flow eastward re-
spectively to the Esk and the basin. A third is
collected into an artificial lake on the west, called
Dun's dish, covering about 40 acres, and used to
drive a mill. The bed of Montrose basin along the
base of the parish, has a black, slimy, and very
dreary appearance at low water ; and is then fre-
quented by considerable numbers of athletic females,
from the neighbouring fishing-village of Ferryden.
DUNAGOIL BAY.
431
DUNBAR.
searching for bait. Over the South Esk is a finely
ornamented bridge of 3 arches, built in 1787. Tlio
river abounds with salmon, sea-trout, a fish called
the finneck, which appears only during August and
September, and several other trouts of passage.
Dun, at the Reformation, was the property ofa
gentleman of the name of Erskine, who figures in
a manner most patriotic and religious in the history
of the period. The parish is traversed, at its greatest
breadth, by the highway between Montroso and
Brechin, and is abundantly intersected by minor
roads. It is traversed also by the Aberdeen rail-
way, and has a station on it at Bridge of Dun.
—the landowners are Erskine of Dun, Cruick-
shank of Langley Park, Carnegy of Craigo, and
Sir James Campbell of Strickathrow. The yearly
value of raw produce was estimated in 1833 at
£10,392 10s. Assessed property in 1865, £9,528
19s. 2d. Population in 1831, 514; in 1861, 765.
Houses, 130.
This parish is in the presbytery of Brechin, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, Erskine of
Dun. Stipend, £159 3s. 2d.; glebe, £15. School-
master's salary, £34 4s. 4Jd., with £19 19s. other
emoluments. The parish church was built about
20 years ago. The former church is said to have
been a chapel of the Dun family, whose mansion
was built very near the church-yard. There are
within the parish a private school and a small paro-
chial library. Two fairs were formerly held, in
May and June, on Dun's Moor; but in 1832 they
were removed to a part of the Dun estate within
Logiepert.
DUNAGOIL BAY, a small bay on the west side
of the island of Bute, 1J mile north-north-west of
Garroch Head. Contiguous to it, on a bold rock 50
feet high, is a vitrified fort.
DUN-AIDH. See Oa.
DUNAN, a bold promontory, in the parish of
Lochbroom, on the west coast of Boss-shire.
DUNAVERTY, an ancient stronghold of the
Lords of the Isles, in the parish of Southend, Argyle-
shire. Scarcely a vestige of it now remains. It
stood on a peninsulated pyramidal hill, one face of
which falls sheer down to the sea, at a part of the
extremity of Kintyre, which is considered to be the
nearest to the Irish coast. A fosse across the neck
of the peninsula, and two or three concentric walls
round the face of the ascent, combined with the
great natural advantages of the site to give the
fortaliee uncommon strength. The earliest of the
Lords of the Isles resided here; and Angus Og gave
entertainment in it to the fugitive Bruce. In 1647
it sustained a severe siege by General Leslie with
a body of 3,000 men. The garrison consisted of
about 300 Irish and Highlanders, under the command
of a brother of Sir Alexander M'Donald. They were
"put to the sword every mother's son, except one
young man," says Sir James Turner. Adjacent to
the peninsula, near the shore, is a village with about
100 inhabitants.
DUNBAR, a parish in the east of Haddington-
shire. It comprises a main body and a detached
district. The main body lies along the coast, and
contains the town of Dunbar, and the villages of
East Barns, West Barns, and Belhaven. It is
bounded on the north by the German ocean, and on
other sides by the parishes of Whitekirk, Preston-
kirk, Stenton, Spott, and Innerwick. Its greatest
length, east-south-eastward, is nearly 8 miles, and
its greatest breadth is upwards of 3f miles ; but its
area is only about 11J square miles. The western
part of the coast, including Tynningham and Bel-
haven bays, presents a fine clean sandy beach; on
approaching Dunbar from the west, the coast be-
comes bold and rocky; to the eastward of Dunbar,
it presents a series of low rocky ledges, generally ol
red sandstone formation, and dipping gently to the
south-east. As we advance towards the east, how-
ever, these rocks assume a more vertical slope, and
here and there shoot up in sharp peaks. Trie sur-
face of the interior presents a pleasing diversity of
hill and dale, rising gradually toward the Lammer-
moor hills, and commanding an extensive prospect
of ocean and seaboard from St. Abb's Head to the
Bass Rock and the hills of Fife. The highest
ground is Branthill, which forms the extreme south-
east point of this part of the parish, and rises to an
altitude of about 700 feet above sea-level. A little
to the north of it, on the march with Spott, is Doon
hill or Down hill, which is about 120 feet lower.
The only streams are the water of Beil or Belton
and the water of Spott or Broxburn, two rivulets
more remarkable for the beautiful scenery through
which they glide, than for their volume of water or
length of course. The soil is partly a rich loam,
partly clay, and partly a light mould well-adapted
for the production of grain and green crops of every
description. Both the old and the new Statistical
reporters claim for this district the high pre-
eminence of being the most fertile tract of the most
fertile district of Scotland. The detached district of
the parish commences If mile from the nearest part
of the main body, and about 5 miles south-south-west
of the burgh. It is surrounded by Whittingham,
Stenton, Spott, and Innerwick, and measures about
7 scfimre miles in area. It is quite a moor-land dis-
trict, lying upon the Lammermoors, and having its
waters flowing to the south-east, and drained by the
Berwickshire Whitadder. The rocks of the main body
of the parish exhibit most interesting phases of both
the secondary formations and the erupted masses ;
and those of the detached district partake of the
Cambrian character of the Southern Highlands.
Coal occurs, but not of sufficient thickness to be
worked. Red sandstone, more or less compact, is
abundant. Grey limestone of excellent quality has
long been quarried. There are upwards of thirty
considerable landowners. Two of the chief are the
Duke of Roxburghe and Sir John Warrender of Loch-
end; and others are the proprietors of Belton, East
Barns, Heatherwick, Barnyhill, Links, and Ninewar.
The valued rent is £16,953 Scots. The real rent in
1823 was £23,405. The yearly value of raw produce
was estimated in 1835 at £59,350. Assessed pro-
perty in 1843, £27,700 14s. 6d. There is good fish-
ing of white-fish, herrings, and lobsters. A flax mill
was tried at West Barns, and a cotton factory at
Belhaven ; but both proved failures. The principal
manufactures, and also the principal antiquities, are
at the town. The ancient villages of Belton, Heather-
wick, and Pinkerton, with their respective chapels,
have long since disappeared. The parish is traversed
by the Edinburgh and London road and by the
North British railway. Population in 1831, 4,735;
in 1861, 4,944. Houses, 658.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the synod
of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, the Duke of
Roxburghe. Stipend, £382 9s. 5d. Unappropriated
teinds, £40 2s. 2d. The principal schools in the
parish are the two burgh-schools, the grammar and
the mathematical school. The master of the first
has a salary of £42; of the second, £36. There are
2 parochial schools, which are located respectively
in West Barns and East Barns; the salary of the
first master being £35 ; and that of the other, £25,
as fixed under the Aet of 1861. There are also
in the parish an infant school and several adven-
ture schools. The parish church is a splendid
Gothic edifice, built in 182 1 , and capable of contain-
DUNBAR.
432
DUNBAR.
ing 1,800 hearers. There is a Free church; whose
receipts in 1865 amounted to £377 19s. There are
two United Presbyterian churches, the one with 700
sittings, the other with 500. Stipend of the minister
of the former, £150 with a manse; of the minister
of the latter, £100 with a manse. There are also
places of worship for Baptists, Morrisonians, and
Methodists, — the last with an attendance of about
: 60. — The parish of Dunbar belonged originally to
the bishopric of Lindisfame; but at the decline of
the kingdom of Northumbria, it was ceded, with the
rest of Lothian, to the King of Scotland, and annexed
to the bishopric of St. Andrews. The church is
noticed in the 'Taxatio' of Lothian in 1176, wherein,
with the chapel of Whittingham, it is assessed in
180 merks. It was not a collegiate charge originally,
but was converted into a collegiate form in 1342, by
Patrick, 10th Earl of Dunbar, for a dean, an arch-
priest, and 18 canons. For their support were as-
signed, together with the revenues of the church at
Dunbar, those of the chapels of Whittingham, Spott,
Stenton, Penshiel, and Heatherwick ; and in addition
to these, were annexed the chapels of Linton in
East Lothian, and Dunse and Chirnside in Berwick-
shire ; the founder reserving to himself and his heirs
the patronage of the whole. In 1492, the chapels of
Dunbar, Pinkerton, Spott, Belton, Pitcox, Linton,
1 Hinse, and Chirnside, were appointed as prebends
to the collegiate church. Soon after this arrange-
ment, the chapels of Spott, Stenton, and Heatherwick,
were converted into parish-churches, yet still re-
mained dependent as prebends of the college. On
the forfeiture of the earldom of March in 1434-5, the
patronage of the church fell to the Crown. During
the reign of James III., it was enjoyed with the
earldom of Dunbar, by the Duke of Albany. It
again reverted to the King, on the forfeiture of his
traitorous brother, in 1483, and now belongs to the
Duke of Roxburghe, as principal heritor of the par-
ish. The church of Dunbar ceased to be collegiate
at the Eeformation in 1560. A monastery of Red or
Trinity friars was founded at Dunbar, in 1218, by
the sixth Earl of Dunbar. Part of the building is
still standing in the Friars' croft. A monastery of
Carmelites or White friars was founded here, in
1 263, by the seventh Earl. No vestige of this build-
ing now remains. A Maison Dieu stood at the
head of the High street.
The Town of Dunbar stands on the coast of the
parish of Dunbar, and on the road from Edinburgh
to London, 3 miles east-south east of the mouth of
Ty nningham bay or the estuary of the Tyne, 1 1
east by north of Haddington, 28 east of Edinburgh,
and 30 north-west of Berwick. It is a royal burgh,
a sea-port, a market-town, a centre of considerable
traffic, and a place of much antiquarian interest.
Its site is pleasant, and its environs abound in
beauty. It chiefly consists of one spacious street
called the High-street, of which Dunbar-house, the
residence of the Earl of Lauderdale, forms the
northern termination. Parallel to this street, and
between it and the shore, run two smaller streets ;
while the harbour projects a little into the bay, on
the south-east; and the bold rocks which are
crowned by the ruins of its far-famed castle rise
directly north of Dunbar-house, and within 300
yards of it. The houses are mostly modern. The
most ancient part of the town is in the vicinity of
■the harbour and the castle. The High-street is a
wide airy thoroughfare, containing several large
buildings; and the town altogether has an agreeable
prosperous appearance.
The route of the North British railway through
the parish and past the town, is replete with in-
terest. On the left of it, just after it enters the
parish, is Ninewar. On the right, a little furthei
on, in a beautiful winding glen, embosomed among
stately trees, is Belton House. Passing from an
embankment into a slight cutting, a little above
Beltonford, the line crosses the Biel. To the right
of it, as it approaches this point, but within the
parish of Stenton, is an artificial lake of two miles
in length, similar in scenery to some of the finest
stretches of the Rhine, and freely accessible to the
public. Contiguous to the Biel, at Bristly Brae,
the line crosses the turnpike road on a viaduct of
iron beams ; and then it emerges from an embank-
ment into a cutting, which is spanned by two
bridges carrying across public roads. On the left
now, at the head of Belhaven bay, is the pretty vil-
lage of Belhaven, with elegant villas. Here, on
crossing a road which comes up from Belhaven, tho
line reaches its bottom level, 112 feet below the
level of the Edinburgh terminus. It then passes
through the Friars' croft, and arrives at the Dunbar
station, on the site of the minister's glebe, imme-
diately in rear of the parish church. This station,
being nearly midway between Edinburgh and Ber-
wick, is the principal stoppage on the line. It is a
tasteful structure, in the Elizabethan style; and
contains, not only the usual accommodations for pas-
sengers and traffic, but also a depot for carnages,
and an engine-shed and workshops. On and around
the very spot occupied by the station stood the camp
of Cromwell, at the most critical moment of his
inroad into Scotland ; and in the vicinity, both in the
town and in the country, are the scenes of several
great military events, which figure prominently in
the history of the kingdom, and must form the topic
of some of our subsequent paragraphs. Contiguous
to the station is Lochend House, an elegant mansion
in the Anglo-Gothic style; and a little to the south,
but within the parish of Spott, are the neat modern
mansion of Bowerhouses, and the witch-doom hill
of Spott-loan, where poor women were burned alive,
so late as the year 1705, for the imputed crime of
witchcraft. About a mile east of the town, at
crossing Broxburn, the line passes Broxmouth Park,
a seat of the Duke of Roxburghe, " a modem man-
sion sheltered from every wind, surrounded with
hills and dales, woods and waters, and everything
to render it a most desirable retreat." The line
then deflects to a permanent direction of south-east,
and passes away toward Innerwick amid a con-
tinued variety of embankments and cuttings, via-
ducts and bridges, woods and fields, pleasant close-
views and fine far-away prospects.
The parish church of Dunbar belongs fully as
much to the environs of the town as to the town itself.
It stands on the south-east outskirts, on a site 65
feet above the level of the sea. It is a large ele-
gant structure, in the Gothic style, with a magni-
ficent tower 108 feet high. It was built after a de-
sign by Gillespie Graham, at the cost of about
£6,000, one-fifth of which was contributed by the
burgh, and the rest by the heritors according to
their respective valuations. The material of the
edifice is a red stone from a quarry near Bower-
houses. The church, with its tower, is seen over a
great extent of country, and serves as a landmark
to mariners. The summit of the tower commands a
brilliant view of the ocean and of part of five coun-
ties, comprising a large expanse of the screens of
the Forth. The former church occupied the same
site as the present, and was taken down expressly
to give place to this. It was a venerable fabric in
the form of a cross, measuring 123 feet in length,
but only from 20 to 25 feet broad. The transept
or cross aisle measured 83 feet. The west end,
beyond the transept, was probably the ancient
DUNBAK.
433
DUNBAR.
chapel of Dunbar. The entry lay through a Saxon
arch, —
" On ponderous columns, short and low,
Built ere the urt was known,
Hy pointed aisle and shafted stalk,
Tiie arcades of an allcy'd walk,
To emulate in stone;"
while the east end. including the south aisle of the
transept, was a species of the Norman or Gothic
style. In 1779, the old church underwent a thorough
repair. It was ceiled in the roof, new floored, part
of the long hotly cut oft' by a partition, and regularly
seated; but nevertheless, it continued to be crazy
and inconvenient, and it was used for the last time
in March, 1819. Immediately behind the pulpit of
the present church stands "a superb monument,
erected to the memory of George Home, Earl of
Dunbar, 3d son of Alexander Home of Manderston.
This nobleman was in great favour with James VI.,
and held successively the offices of high-treasurer
of Scotland, and chancellor of the exchequer in
England; and, while in the latter capacity, he was
created a peer of his native land. It was on him
that ' the British Solomon ' chiefly depended for the
restoration of prelacy in Scotland ; and at the par-
liament held at Perth in 1606, he had the skill to
carry through the act for the restoration of the
estate of bishops. His death took place suddenly at
Whitehall, on the 29th January 1611, when he was
about to solemnize his daughter's marriage with
Eord Walden in a magnificent manner. A writer
in the ' Biographia Scoticana, or Scots Worthies,'
imputes the circumstance to the judgment of
heaven, while Sir John Scott, in his political
epitome of slander, ascribes it to some poisoned
sugar tablets which were given him by Secretary
Cecil for expelling the cold. " His hody," says
Crawfurd, " being embalmed, and put into a coffin
of lead, was sent down to Scotland, and with great
solemnity interred in the collegiate church of Dun-
bar, where his executors erected a very noble and
magnificent monument of various coloured marble,
with a statue as large as life." The monument is
12 feet broad at the base, and 26 feet in height.
Above the pedestal, Lord Dunbar is represented,
kneeling on a cushion, in the attitude of prayer,
with a Bible open before him. He is clad in ar-
mour, which is seen under his knight's robes, and
on his left arm is the badge of the order of the gar-
ter. Two knights in armour stand on each side as
supporters. Above the knights in armour are two
female figures. — the one representing Justice, and
the other Wisdom. Betwixt these figures, and im-
mediately above the cupola, Fame sounds her trum-
pet; while, on the opposite side, Peace, with her
olive wand, sheds a laurel wreath on his lordship.
Immediately beneath the monument is the vault,
wherein the body is deposited in a leaden coffin.
Dunbar castle is an object of great interest.
It is believed to have been founded at a very early
period of the Christian era; it was eventually the
work of different ages, making successive additions
to its strength; it had the fame, for a long time,
previous to the invention of gunpowder, of being
impregnable; it was one of the grandest fortresses
of the'border counties, exerting a material influence
on the national history; and though dismantled and
demolished hy order of Parliament in 1567, it still
survives in sufficient vestiges to be an imposing
antiquity. Grose has given two views of it, and
Sir Walter Scott has particularly described it in his
Provincial Antiquities. The following account of
it is abridged from Miller's History of Dunbar:—
The castle is founded upon a reef of trap rocks,
which project into the sea, and, in many places,
I.
rise like bastions thrown up by nature to gnard
these stern remains of feudal grandeur against the
power of the waves, which yet force their way
through rugged caverns and fissures in the stone,
and, with a thundering noise, wash its dark foun-
dations. These rocks are in some places composed
of red basaltic greenstone, and in others of tufa;
and in some places masses of indurated sandstone
appear entangled in the trap rock. The hody of
the buildings measures about 165 feet from east to
west; and in some places, 207 from north to south.
The south battery — which Grose supposes to have
been the citadel or keep — is situated on a detached
perpendicular rock, accessible only on one side, 72
feet high, and is connected to the main part of the
castle by a passage of masonry measuring 69 feet.
The interior of the citadel measures 54 feet by 60,
within the walls. Its shape is octagonal. Five of
the gun-ports remain, which are called ' the arrow-
holes.' They measure 4 feet at the mouth, and
only 16 inches at the other end. The buildings are
arched and extend 8 feet from the outer walls, and
look into an open court, whence they derive their
light. About the middle of the fortress part of a
wall remains, through which there is a gateway
surmounted with armorial bearings. This gate
seems to have led to the principal apartments. In
the centre are the arms of George, 11th Earl of Dun-
bar, who succeeded his father in 1369; and who,
besides the earldom of Dunbar and March, inherited
the lordship of Annandale and the Isle of Man from
his heroic mother. The towers had communication
with the sea, and dip low in many places. North-
east from the front of the castle is a large natural
cavern of black stone, supposed to have formed
part of the dungeon, which, Pennant observes,
" the assistance of a little art had rendered a secure
but infernal prison." But as it has a communication
with a rocky inlet from the sea on the west, it is
more likely that it is the dark postern through
which Sir Alexander Ramsay and his brave follow-
ers entered with a supply of provisions to the be-
sieged in 1338. It was a place also well suited for
seeming the boats belonging to the garrison. The
castle is built with a red stone similar to what is
found in the quarries of the neighbourhood. Part
of the foundation of a fort, which was hegun in
1559, for the purpose of accomodating a French
garrison, may be traced, extending 136 feet in front
of the castle. This building was, however, inter-
rupted in its progress, and demolished. In the
north-west part of the ruins is an apartment of
about 12 feet square, and nearly inaccessible, which
tradition denominates the apartment of Queen
Mary.
Dunbar-house, now used as a militia barra°cks,
is situated within the old castle park, and exhibits
to the High-street a large couchant sphynx with
wings extended, and to the sea a very handsome
front, comprising a circular portico and two exten-
sive wings. Had it been placed contiguous to the
castle, it would have been one of the most pictur-
esque residences in the kingdom. — The town-house
of Dunbar is an old edifice. — The assembly-rooms
are a good pile of building, erected in 1822 by sub-
scription, but in a bad situation. — The burgh school
rooms are modern. — The corn-exchange was pro-
jected in 1854, and opened in Oct. 1855. — The old har-
bour comprises a series of improvements and exten-
sions, from the time of Cromwell till the year 1820;
yet is small, and does not admit vessels of above
300 tons burden. The new harbour, called Victoria
harbour, is adjacent to the old, has an area of 2J
acres, and is entered by a cut of 70 feet in width,
through the ledge of rock on which the castle
2 E
DUNBAR.
4£4
DUNBAR.
stands. It was founded in 1844, in anticipation
of the opening of the North British railway; and
was completed at the cost of £15,762, — of which
£11,262 were contributed by the Fishery Board,
and the rest by the burgh. But even this har-
bour, for even small craft, requires some material
improvement. — A harbour of refuge also has long
been talked of at Dunbar, and has at last been
resolved upon by the Lords of the Treasury. The
chief considerations for it are the position of the
town near the entrance of the frith of Forth, the
extreme perilousness of the coast over a great ex-
tent to the south, the contiguity of the track of the
numerous shipping along that coast, and the ex-
istence of many rocks and rocky islets, in the offing
of the town, which might form the abutments of a
breakwater.
" In the earlier periods of the histoiy of Scot-
land," say the Parliamentary Commissioners on
Municipal Corporations, " the collection of the cus-
toms or duties upon merchandise due to the Crown
was generally intrusted to the royal burghs, who
enjoyed the exclusive privilege of foreign trade.
Through the distance of Haddington from the Eng-
lish border, the collection of the King's customs
seems to have been neglected in the Merse during
the reign of David II., and an opportunity afforded
to the English when in possession of Berwick and
Roxburgh, to purchase and carry off from that dis-
trict wool, hides, and other merchandise, without
paying custom. To remedy the evil, that monarch,
by a charter dated the 40th year of his reign,
granted to the Earl of March the light of having a
free burgh at Dunbar, and free burgesses dwelling
in the same, who should have the privilege of buy-
ing and selling skins, wool, hides, and other mer-
chandise, together with a free port at Belhaven, and
all the liberties and advantages which belonged to a
free burgh and harbour. The burgesses of Dunbar
were also appointed collectors of the King's customs
within the bounds of the burgh and harbour; and
the boundary of the burgh was declared to be the
same as the earldom of March. It was further de-
clared by this charter that the burgesses of Had-
dington should have the privilege of trading within
the burgh of Dunbar; but that they should pay the
customs due upon the articles of their trade there to
the collector of Dunbar; and that the burgesses of
Dunbar should have the privilege of trading within
the bounds of the burgh of Haddington, but should
pay the customs due upon the trade there to the
collector of Haddington. We have not ascertained
when Dunbar was first erected into a royal burgh.
In the year 1469 a commissioner from Dunbar first
appears in the rolls of parliament ; but the liability
of the burgh to general taxations, in consequence of
its admission to the privileges of trade under the
charter above referred to, had probably entitled them
to be represented in parliament at a much earlier
period. By a charter of confirmation and de novo
tJamus, granted to the town by James VI., dated 23d
October, 1618, it is declared 'that the ancient old
bounds of the said burgh have been, now are, and
ill all time coming shall be the haill earldom of
Marcli and lordship of Dunhar; as also the bounds
of the baronies of Coldingham, Mordingtown, Buncle,
Langtown, Innerwick, and Stenton; together with
all and sundry tolls, customs, impositions, anchor-
ages, or other duties, casualties, liberties, rents,
commodities, privileges, and just pertinents what-
soever due, used, and wont, as well by sea as by
land, and in the peaceable possession of which they
have been for these sundry years bypast, and at
present are.' No part of these lands, however, ap-
pear to be conveyed to the burgh, and the boundary
here described must be that of their exclusive pri-
vilege to trade."
In 1577, Dunbar was the rendezvous of the
Dutch as well as of the Scottish fishery. Tucker,
in his Report, of November, 1656, says: "The
towne of Dunbarre, or village rather, is a fisher
towne, famous for the herring-fishing, who are
caught thereabout, and brought thither, and after-
wards made, cured, and barrelled up either for
merchandise, or sold and vended to the country-
people, who come thither farre and nearre at that
season, which is frome about the middle of August
to the latter end of September, and buy great quan-
tities of fish, which they cany away, and either
spend them presently, or else salt and lay up for
the winter provision of their families. The trade
here is little except salt, which is brought hither
and laid up, and after sold for the fishing; the
people of these parts, which are not fishermen, em-
ploying themselves in tillage and in affairs of hus-
bandry." In 1661 Ray observes in his Itinerary:
" There is a great confluence of people at Dunbar
to the herring-fishery; and they told us, sometimes
to the number of 20,000 persons." In 1710, a cus-
tom-house was established here, which has juris-
diction from Berwick bounds to Gulane point. In
1752, a whale-fishery company was established at
Dunbar, which, not succeeding, was dissolved in
1804. In 1792, there were 16 vessels belonging to
the port, of a total burthen of 1,505 tons, and 2
Greenland ships of 675 tons. In 1830, there were 6
vessels belonging to Dunbar engaged in the wood
and grain trade with the Baltic, and 39 in the coast-
ing-trade. The number of registered vessels be-
longing to this port, in 1839, was 30, of aggregately
1,495 tons; and in 1851, it was 11, of aggregately
658 tons. A decrease in the population of the town
between 1841 and 1851, is ascribed to the decline of
the shipping trade, occasioned by the opening of
the North British railway.
The trade of Dunbar has been fluctuating and
various. Ship-building, the manufacture of sail-
cloth and cordage, and the curing of herrings both
by salt and smoke, afford employment to a consider-
able number of hands. There are also a soap-work,
an iron-foundry, a steam-engine manufactory, seve-
ral breweries, and a distillery. Dunbar was fa-
mous in the old times for its malt; and it still con-
tinues to be so. A weekly corn-market is held on
Tuesday; and fairs, chiefly for hiring single farm
and domestic servants, are held immediately after
Whitsunday and Martinmas. The stoppage of the
East Lothian bank in 1822, proved a heavy dis-
couragement to trade in this quarter ; but the en-
gagements of the company were all honourably
liquidated. The first printing-press in the county
of East Lothian was set up at Dunbar by Mr. G.
Miller, in 1795; and we believe that the Dunbar
press has the high merit of having been the first in
Scotland, from which issued a cheap periodical mis-
cellany, in which the instruction and entertainment
of the lower classes was professedly the principal
object aimed at. The principal inns in Dunbar are
the St. George, the Railway, and the Blackbull.
The town has branch offices of the Commercial
Bank, the British Linen Company's Bank, and the
City of Glasgow Bank. It has also a reading room,
a mechanics' institution, two public libraries, an
itinerating library, a gas-light company, a clothing
society, and a sailors' society. A small debt circuit
court is held on the third Tuesday of February,
April, June, August, October, and December.
The municipal council of Dunbar consists of 20
members, including a provost, 3 bailies, and a trea-
surer. Prior to the 3° and 4° William IV., the ma-
DUNBAR.
435
DUNBAR.
gistratos and old council, out of a loot of 8 made by
themselves, chose 4 new councillors; the old and
new council chose the 5 magistrates out of leets
made by themselves; and then the old and new ma-
gistrates put off such 4 of the old councillors as they
thought proper. There was no provision for any
change in the council, except the 4 annually put oh";
so a majority of the council continued without elec-
tion, and there was no restriction upon re-election.
The jurisdiction of the magistrates extends over the
whole royalty, which is ill defined. There is no
dean-ol'-guild. The magistrates and council have
the appointment of the town-clerk, chamberlain,
superintendent of police, procurator-fiscal, burgh-
schoolmasters, clerk to the corn-market, and burgh-
ollicers. They have no other patronage. There are
no incorporated crafts possessing exclusive privileges.
The property of the burgh consists of the town's
common, upon which the burgesses have a right of
pasturage, and from which no revenue is derived;
of lands, mills, and houses, fishing, sea-ware, tenuis
of fish, church-seat rents, and stone-quarries. The
computed value of this property, including £5,000
for the common, is £14,500. The debt due by the
town at Michaelmas, 1832, was £8,376 4s. 4d. The
total revenue, of every kind, from all sources, in
1832, was £1,293 14s. 6d.; but £119 19s. 4£d. of
this was not properly burgh revenue. The total ex-
penditure in 1832 was £1,385 2s. 6Jd.| but £132 3s.
7d. of this was in a very slight degree on account of
the common property. The revenue in 1864-5, was
£1,291. Dunbar unites with Haddington, North
Berwick, Lauder, and Jedburgh in sending a mem-
ber to parliament. The boundaries of the parlia-
mentary burgh include Belhaven. Municipal con-
stituency in 1866, 148; parliamentary constituency,
J 54. Population of the municipal burgh in 1841,
3,013; in 1861,3,796. Houses, 475. Population of
the parliamentary burgh in 1861, 3,516. Houses, 422.
The history of the town and castle of Dunbar is
intimately eonnected with that of the ancient noble
family of Dunbar. Cospatrick, the founder of that
family, was the son of Maldred, the son of Crinan
by Algatha, daughter and heiress of Uthred, prince
of Northumberland. After the concpaest of England
by William the Norman in 1066, Cospatrick and
Merleswain, with other nobles of the north of Eng-
land, fled to Scotland, carrying with them Edgar
Atheling, the heir of the Saxon line, and bis mother
Algatha, with his sisters Margaret and Christina.
Malcolm Canmore, who married the Princess Mar-
garet, bestowed on Cospatrick the manor of Dunbar
and many fair lands in the Merse and Lothian.
Cospatrick having signalized himself in an expedi-
tion against a formidable banditti which infested the
south-east borders of Scotland, was created Earl of
the Merse, or March; and the lands of Cockburns-
path were bestowed on him by the singular tenure
of clearing East Lothian and the Merse of robbers.
Patrick, 5th Earl of Dunbar, received from William
I., in 1184, Ada, one of his natural daughters, in
marriage. About the end of the 12th century, he
held the offices of justiciary of Lothian and keeper
of Berwick. In 1214, to retaliate the inroads made
by Alexander into England, Henry III. invaded
Scotland with a powerful army, and took the town
and castle of Berwick. His next attempt was on
the fortress of Dunbar; but finding it impregnable,
he laid waste the country to the walls of Hadding-
ton, and returned homewards. — Patrick, 6th Earl of
Dunbar, succeeded his father at the age of 46. In
1242, at a royal tournament held at Haddington, the
young Earl of Athol overthrew Walter, the chief of
the family of the Bissets. To revenge this affront,
the lodgings of the Earl were set on fire the same
night, and Athol, with several of his friends, was
either slain or burnt to death. The King endea-
voured in vain to bring the perpetrators of this
atrocious assault to trial; but the combination of
the Cumyns and other nobles against the Bissets was
so strong that the latter were obliged to abandon
their. country. On this occasion, the Earl of Dunbar
— whom Lord Hailes calls the most powerful baron
of the southern districts — put himself at the head of
the nobles who demanded retribution.
Patrick, 7th Earl of Dunbar, during the turbulent,
minority of Alexander III., was one of the chiefs of
the English faction. Thomas Lermont of Ersildoun,
commonly called the Rhymer, visited Dunbar in
1285, and foretold to the Earl the sudden death of
Alexander III., who was killed by a fall from his
horse on the sands of Kinghorn. We are circum-
stantially informed by Bower — who was born at
Haddington 100 years after — that, on the night pre-
ceding the King's death, Thomas, having arrived at
the castle of Dunbar, was interrogated by the Earl,
in the jocular manner he was wont to assume with
the prophet, if to-morrow should produce any remark-
able event; to which the bard replied, in the mystical
language of prophecy : " Alas for to-morrow, a day of
calamity and misery ! Before the 12th hour, shall
be beard a blast so vehement that it shall exceed
those of every former period, — a blast which shall
strike the nations with amazement, — shall humble
wdiat is proud, and what is fierce shall level with
the ground! The sorest wind and tempest that ever
was heard of in Scotland!" After this prediction,
which was left to be fulfilled either by accident or
the weather, Thomas retired. Next day, the Earl
and his companions having continued in watch till
the ninth hour, without discovering any unusual
appearance in the elements, began to doubt the pre-
sent powers of the soothsayer, to whom " the sun-
set of life had given mystical lore," and having . or-
dered him into their presence, upbraided him as an
impostor, and hastened to enjoy their wonted repast.
But his lordship had scarcely placed himself at table,
and the shadow of the dial fallen on the hour of noon,
when an express, covered with foam, appeared at the
castle-gate, demanding an audience. On being in-
terrogated, he exclaimed: " I do indeed bring news,
but of a lamentable kind, to be deplored by the whole
realm of Scotland! Alas, our renowned King has
ended his fair life at Kinghorn ! " " This," cried the
prophet, gathering himself up in the spirit of con-
scious veracity, " this is the seaithful wind and dread-
ful tempest which shall blow such a calamity and
trouble to the whole state of the whole realm of
Scotland!"
Patrick, 8th Earl of Dunbar and March — sur-
named Black Beard — succeeded to the honours and
possessions of bis father in 1289. He appeared at
the parliament at Brigham in 1289, where he is
called Comes de Marchia, being the first of the Earls
of Dunbar designated by that title. When, in 1296
Edward, with a powerful army entered Scotland, the
Earl of Dunbar, with the Bruces and their adhe-
rents, took part against their country; but Dunbar's
heroic Countess got possession of the castle of Dunba r,
and delivered it to the leaders of the Scottish army.
Edward despatched the Earl of Warrenne with
12,000 men to lay siege to Dunbar, which was de-
fended by the flower of the Scottish nobility. The
Scots, sensible of the importance of this "fortress,
which, if taken, laid their country open to the
enemy, hastened with their main army of 40.00U
men, under the command of the Earls of Buchau,
Lennox, and Mar, to its relief. Warrenne, un-
daunted by the superior numbers of the Scots, left
part of his army to blockade the castle, while ho
DUNBAR.
436
DUNBAR.
advanced to meet them. The English had to de-
scend into a valley — probably Oswaldea, a glen near
Spott — before they could reach the Scots; and as
they descended, the Scots observing or imagining they
saw some confusion in their ranks, set up a loud shout
of exultation, and causing their horns to be sounded,
rushed down from their well-chosen position. But
when Warrenne emerged from the glen, and advanced
undismayed against their formidable front, the un-
disciplined troops, after a very brief resistance, fled
before him, and were pursued with great slaughter
as far as Selkirk forest. Next day, Edward, with
the main body of the English army, reached Dunbar,
and compelled the garrison to surrender. When the
heroic Wallace first undertook to deliver his country
from her abject bondage, the Earl of Dunbar refused
to attend a meeting of the estates at St. Johnston :
" Liclitiy he leuch, in scorn as it had been.
And said lie had sic message seldom seen.
That "Wallace now as governor sail ryng.
Here is gret faute of a gude prince or king
That king of Kyll I can nocht understand,
Of him I held never a fur of land;
That Bachiller Trowis, for fortoun schawis her quhell,
Tharwith to lest, it sail nocht lang be Weill :
Bot to you lords, and ye will understand,
I make you wyss, I aw to mak na band,
Als fre, I am in this regioun to ryng
Lord of mine awne, as ever was prince or king;
In Ingland als gret part of land I haif,
Ma rent thairof thair will no man me eraif,
What will you mair, I warn you I am free.
For your summounds ye get na mair of me."
The patriot-hero, with 200 men, went in pursuit
of the haughty baron. Wallace was joined by Ro-
bert Lauder at Musselburgh, and afterwards by
Crystal of Seton. They were met at Linton by
Squire Lyle, who informed them that the Earl had
made his gathering at Cockburnspath. and was on
his march to Dunbar. Lauder upon this would have
pressed forward; but Wallace is represented by the
old ' Makhar,' already quoted, as calmly replying to
the remonstrances of his comrade,
41 We may at laysar ride.
With yone power he thinkis bargane to bide:
And of a thing ye sail weill understand
A hardier lord is nocht into Scotland;
Micht he be made trew stedfast till a king,
Be wit and force he can do meikill thing ;
Bot wilfully he likis to tyne himself."
Wallace encountered Patrick in a field near Inner-
wick, where the latter had assembled 900 of his vas-
sals, and with half that number compelled the Earl,
after a terrible conflict, to retreat to Cockburnspath,
while he fell back on Dunbar; but finding the castle
without provisions, and the garrison wede away with
their lord, he gave it in charge to Crystal of Seton.
In the meantime, the Earl of Dunbar had gone to
Northumberland to solicit the aid of the Bishop of
Durham ; but his ostensible reason, says ' The Min-
strel,' was "to bring the Bruce free till his land."
Vessels were immediately sent from the Northum-
brian Tyne to blockade Dunbar, and cut off supplies,
while the Earl, with 20,000 men, hastened to retake
his fortress. In the interim the champion of Scot-
land had repaired to the west in quest of succour,
and returning by Yester, was joined by Hay and a
chosen body of cavalry. With 5,000 men he marched
to the support of Seton, while the Bishop of Durham,
who had remained at Norham witli Bruce, came to
the assistance of Dunbar, and riding through Lam-
mermoor, threw himself into an ambush near Spott-
moor. By this unexpected movement, Wallace was
completely hemmed in, when Seton fortunately came
to his relief. The two armies closed in mortal strife.
The Scots pushed on so furiously against the South-
rons, that they were just about to fly, but Patrick was
"Sa cruel of intent,
That all his host tuk of him hardiment:
Throuch his awne hand he put moiiy to pain."
The desperate valour of the Wallaces, the Ramsays,
and the Grahams, was of little avail against the su-
perior force of the English ; so that when the am-
buscade of Bishop Beck appeared, they were on the
point of retiring. Dunbar singled out Wallace amidst
the throng, and
" Hereat the plait with his scharp groundyn claiflf
Throuch all the stuff, and woundit him sum deilL"
The hero returning the blow with sevenfold ven-
geance, clove down Maitland, who had thrown him-
self betwixt the two adversaries. Wallace's horse
was killed beneath him, and he was now on foot
dealing destruction to his enemies, when
41 Erie Patrick than, that had gret craft in war,
With spears ordand guid Wallace doun to bear."
But 500 resolute warriors rescued their champion,
and the war-worn armies were glad to retire. The
same night Wallace traversed Lammermoor in quest
of the retreating host, while Bishop Beck, Earl Pat-
rick, and Bruce, fled to Norham. On his return, the
champion, still mindful of the odium attached to his
name by the Earl of Dunbar, —
" Passit, with mony awfull men,
On Patrickis land, and waistit wonder fast,
Tuk out guids, and places doun thai cast ;
His steads, sevin, that Mete Hamys was calt'd,
Wallace gert break the burly biggings bauld,
Baith in the Merse, and als in Lothiane,
Except Dunbar, standand he leavit nane."
Edward II. of England, after seeing his army
annihilated at Bannockburn, fled with a body of
horse towards Berwick; but Sir James Douglas,
with 80 chosen horsemen, so pressed on the royal
fugitive, that he was glad to shelter himself in the
castle of Dunbar. Here he was received by Pat-
rick, 9th Earl, 'full gently;' after which, by means
of a fishing-boat, he coasted along the shore till he
reached the towers of Bambrough. " This was
honourable," observes a distinguished writer, " be-
cause Patrick must have had in his thoughts at that
time the making his peace with his native monarch,
and could not be ignorant how easily and advan-
tageously he might have done so, by detaining in
custody the person of the King of England." After
this, the Earl of Dunbar made peace with his cousin
Robert I., and was present at Ayr on the 26th
April, 1315, when the succession to the Crown of
Scotland was settled on Bruce. After the defeat at
Hallidon-hill, however, and before Edward left Ber-
wick, he received the fealty of the Earl of Dunbar
with several others of the nobility; and the castle
of Dunbar, which had been dismantled and razed to
the ground on the approach of the English, was
now rebuilt at the Earl's own expense, for the pur-
pose of maintaining an English garrison.
In January, 1337, the castle of Dunbar was again
in the entire possession of its own master, and at
the service of the Crown of Scotland; and then the
Earls of Salisbury and Arundel advanced at the
head of a large English army to take it. At this
important crisis the Earl of Dunbar was in the
North; so that the defence of his stronghold de-
volved upon his Countess, a lady who, from the
darkness of her complexion, was commonly called
Black Agnes. She was daughter to the celebrated
Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray. During the
siege, Agnes performed all the duties of a bold and
vigilant commander. When the battering engines
of the English hurled stones or leaden balls against
the battlements, she, in scorn, ordered one of her
maids to wipe off with a clean white handkerchief
the marks of the stroke; and when the Earl of Sal
DUNBAR.
437
DUNBAR.
isbury, with vast labour, brought his sow close to
the walls, the Countess exclaimed :
" Beware, Mnntagow,
Fur farrow shall thy sow!"
Whereupon a large fragment of the rock was hurled
from the battlements, and crushed the sow to pieces,
with all the poor little pigs — as Major calls them —
who were lurking under it. The following is Wyn-
torrs rhyming account of this memorable siege: —
Schyrc William Montague, that sua
Had tano the siege, ill hy grct ma
A mckil and richt stalwart engine.
And up smcrtly pert dress it; syne
They warpit at tho wall great stnues
Baitli hard and heavy for the nanys,
But that nane raerrying to them made,
And alaua when they castyne hail,
With a towel, a damiselle
Arrayed jollily and well,
Wippit tlie wall, that they micht see
To gere them mair annoyed be;
There at the siege well lang they lay,
Jiut there little vantage got they;
For when they bykkyne wald, or assail,
They tint the maist of their travaile.
And as they bykeryd there a' day,
Of a great shot I shall you say,
For that they had of it ferly,
It here to you rehearse will I.
William of Spens percit a Blasowne,
And thro' three faulds of Awbyrchownc,
And the Actowne through the third ply
And the arrow in the bodie,
While of that dynt there dead he lay;
And then the Montagu gan say;
" This is ane of my Lady's pinnis,
Her amouris thus, till my heart rinnis."
While that the siege was there on this wise
Men sayis their fell sair juperdyis.
For Lawrence of Prestoun, that then
Haldin ane of the wichtest men,
That was in all Scotland that tide,
A rout of Inglismen saw ride,
That seemed gude men and worthy,
And were arrayed right richly;
He, with als few folk, as they were,
On them assembled he there;
But at the assembling, he was there
Intil the mouth stricken with a spear,
While it up in the harnys ran;
Till a dike he withdrew him than.
And died; for nae mair live he might
His men his death perceived noucht;
And with their faes faucht stoutly,
While they them vanquished utterly.
Thus was this guid man brought till end,
That was richt greatly to commend.
Of gret wirschipe and gret bownte
His said be aye in saftie.
Sir William als of Galstown
Of Keith, that was of gude renown,
Met Richard Talbot by the way
And set him to sa hard assay,
That to a kirk he gert him gae,
And close there defence to ma;
But he assailed there sae fast,
That him be-hov'd treat at the last,
And twa thousand pound to pay.
And left hostage and went his way.
The Montagu was yet lyand,
Sieging Dunbare with stalwart hand;
And twa gallies of Genoa had he,
For till assiege it by the sea.
And as he thus assiegend lay,
He was set intil hard assay;
For he had purchased him covyn
Of ane of them, that were therein.
That he should leave open the yete,
And certain term till him then set
To come; but they therein halily
Were warnit of it privily.
He came, and the yete open fand.
And wald have gane in foot steppand;
But John of Cowpland, that was then
But a right poor simple man.
Shut him off back, and in is gane,
The portcullis came down on ane;
And spared Montagu, thereout
They cryed with a sturdy shout,
"A Montagu for ever mair!"
Then with the folk that he had there,
He turned to his Herbery,
And let him japyt fullyly.
Sync Alexander, tho Ramsay.
That trowed and thought, that they
That wore assieged in Dunbar,
At great distress or mischief were;
That in an evening frac the Base,
With a few folk, that with him was,
Toward Dunbar, intil a boat,
He held all privily his gate;
And by the gallics all slyly
He gat with his company;
The lady, and all, that were there,
Ot his coming well comfort were,
He issued in the morning in hy,
And with the wachis sturdily,
Made ane apart and stout melle.
And but tynsel entered he.
While Montagu was there lyand,
The King Edward of England
Purchased him help and alyawns.
For he wald amowe were in France;
And for the Montagu he sends;
For lie cowth nae thing till end
For owtyn him, for that time he
Was maist of bis counsel privie
When be had heard the kind's bidding
He removed, but mair dwelling,
When be, I trow, had lying there
A quarter of a year and mair.
Of this assiege in their hethyng
The English oysid to make karping
" I vow to God, she makes gretstere
The Scottish wenche ploddere,
Come I aire, come I late,
I fand Annot at the yate.'*
Amongst the nobles who fell in the field of Dur-
ham, in 1346, was Thomas, Earl of Moray, brother
to the heroic Countess of Dunbar. As he had no
male issue, Agnes became sole possessor of his
vast estates; and her husband assumed the addi-
tional title of Earl of Moray. Besides the earldom
of Moray, the Earl of Dunbar and his Countess ob-
tained the Isle of Man, the lordship of Annandale,
the baronies of Morton and Tibbers in Nithsdale, of
Morthingtoun and Longformaeus, and the manor
of Dunse in Berwickshire; with Mochrum in Gal-
loway, Cumnock in Ayrshire, and Blantyre in
Clydesdale.
George, the 10th Earl of Dunbar and March,
succeeded his father in 1369. From the vast pop-
sessions he inherited, he became one of the most
powerful nobles of Southern Scotland, and the rival
of the Douglases. His daughter, Elizabeth, was
betrothed to David, son and heir to Robert III., and
on the faith of the prince, who had given a bond to
perform the espousals, the earl had advanced a con-
siderable portion of his daughter's matrimonial set-
tlement; but Archibald, Earl of Douglas — sur-
named the Grim — jealous of the advantages which
this marriage promised to bestow on a family whose
pre-eminence in the state already rivalled his own,
protested against the alliance, and by his intrigues
at court, through the influence of the Duke of Al-
bany, had the contract between the Duke of Rothe-
say and Lady Elizabeth Dunbar cancelled, and his
own daughter substituted in her place. Stung by
this gross insult, Earl George retired into England,
where Henry IV. granted him a pension of .£400
during the continuance of the war with Scotland,
on condition that he provided 12 men-at-arms, and
20 archers with horses, to serve against Robert.
In 1398, in conjunction with Hotspur and Lord
Talbot, March entered Scotland and fearfully de-
vastated the lands, which he could no longer call
his own, as far as Hailes castle on the Tyne. After
the battle of Halidon in 1402, Henry addressed
congratulatory letters to the Earl of Dunbar, the
Percies, and others. At last, through the media-
tion of Walter Halyburton of Dirleton, a reconcilia-
tion with the Douglases was effected in A408;
Douglas consenting to Dunbar's restoration, on
condition that he obtained the castle of Lochmaben,
and the lordship of Annandale, in lieu of the castlo
DUNBAR.
438
DUNBAR.
of Dunbar and earldom of March, which he then
possessed.
George, 11th Earl of Dunbar and March, suc-
ceeded Iris father, at the mature age of 50. In
1435, he and his son Patrick visited England.
The motive of this visit to the English court is not
known; but the slumbering jealousies of James I.
— who had already struck a blow at the power of
the barons — were easily awakened; and he formed
the bold plan of seizing the estates and fortresses of
a family which for ages had been the most powerful
and opulent on the Scottish borders. The Earl of
Dunbar was arrested and imprisoned in the castle
of Edinburgh, while the Earl of Angus, Chancellor
Crichton, and Adam Hepburn of Hailes, were de-
spatched with letters to the keeper of the castle of
Dunbar, who immediately surrendered it to the
King's authority. In a parliament assembled at
Perth, on the 10th January, 1434-5, George was ac-
cused of holding his earldom and estates, which had
been forfeited by his father's tergiversation. " In
vain did he plead," says Robert Douglas, " that his
father had been pardoned and restored by Albany;"
it was answered, " that a forfeiture incurred for
treason could not be pardoned by a regent;" and
the parliament, in compliance with this reasoning,
having heard Sir George Dunbar, on his part, ad-
judged, " that, in consequence of the attainder of
George de Dunbar, formerly Earl of March and
Lord of Dunbar, every right both of property and
possession in all and each of those estates in the
earldom of March and lordship of Dunbar, and
all other lands which he held of our said lord the
King, with all and each of their appurtenances, did
and does exclusively belong and appertain to our
lord the King."
Thus the earldom and estates of Dunbar were
vested in the Crown. The lordship of Dunbar was
bestowed by James II. on his 2d son, Alexander,
Duke of Albany, then in his infancy. " Against this
measure," says Mr. Tytler, " which in a moment re-
duced one of the most powerful subjects in the realm
to the condition of a landless dependent upon the
charity of the Crown, it does not appear that the
Earl, or his friends, dared to offer any remonstrance
or resistance. They probably knew it would be in-
effectual, and might bring upon them still more fatal
consequences; and James proceeded to complete his
plan for the security of the kingdom, by taking pos-
session of the forfeited estate, and delivering the
keeping of the castle of Dunbar, which he had seized
in the preceding year, to Sir Walter Halliburton of
Dirleton. He then, to soften in some degree the
severity of his conduct, conferred upon March the
title of Earl of Buchan, and assigned to him, out of
the revenues of that northern principality, an annual
pension of four hundred marks. That noble person,
however, full of resentment for the cruelty with
which he had been treated, disdained to assume a
title which he regarded as only a mark of his degra-
dation, and almost immediately after the judgment
bade adieu to his country, and, in company with his
eldest son, retired to England. Although this ex-
traordinary proceeding appears not to have oc-
casioned any open symptoms of dissatisfaction at
the moment, it is impossible to conceive that it
should not have roused the jealousy and alarmed
the minds of the great body of the feudal nobility.
It cannot perhaps be pronounced strictly unjust;
vet there was a harshness, it may almost be said,
a tyranny, in the manner in which such princely
estates were torn from the family, after they had
been possessed for twenty-six years, without chal-
lenge or remonstrance."
In 1484, the castle of Dunbar was in the hands of
the English. On the marriage of Margaret of Eng-
land with the King of Scotland in 1502, the earlrloir
of Dunbar and lordship of Cockburnspath, with theii
dependencies, were asigned as the jointure of the
young Queen; but the castle of Dunbar is expressly
mentioned as being reserved by the King to himself.
In 1515, Dunbar was garrisoned with French sol-
diers. In December 1527, when James V. laid
siege to the neighbouring castle of Tantallon, then
the stronghold of Douglas, he " gart send to the
castle of Dunbar," says Lindsay of Pitscottie, " to
Captain Morrice, to borrow some artillery, and laid
great pledges for the same; because the castle was
then in the Duke of Albany's hand, and the artil-
lery thereof his own."
The English, in the inroad under the Earl of
Hertford, in 1544, after their return from the siege
of Leith, and after burning Haddington, encamped
the second night — 26th May — near Dunbar. " The
same day," says Patten, " we burnt a fine town of
the Earl of Bothwell's, called Haddington, with a
great nunnery and a house of friars. The next
night after, we encamped besides Dunbar; and
there the Scots gave a small alarm to our camp.
But our watches were in such readiness that they
had no vantage there, but were fain to recoil with-
out doing of any harm. That night they looked for
us to have burnt the town of Dunbar, which we
deferred till the morning at the dislodging of our
camp, which we executed by V. C. of our hak-
butters, being backed with V. C. horsemen. And
by reason we took them in the morning, who hav-
ing watched all night for our coming, and per-
ceiving our army to dislodge and depart, thought
themselves safe of us, were newly gone to their
beds; and in their first sleeps closed in with fire,
men, women, and children, were suffocated and
burnt. That morning being very misty and foggy,
we had perfect knowledge by our espials, that the
Scots had assembled a great power at a strait called
the Pease."
In 1547, the Duke of Somerset invaded Scotland
with an army of 14,000 men; and having crossed
the pass of Pease, with " puffying and payne," as
Patten says, demolished the castles of Dunglass,
Innerwick, and Thornton. " This done, about noon,
we marched on, passing soon after within the gun-
shot of Dunbar, a town standing longwise upon the
sea -side, whereat is a castle — which the Scots
count very strong — that sent us divers shots as we
passed, but all in vain: their horsemen showed
themselves in their fields beside us, towards whom
Bartevil with his viii. [c.] men, all hakbutters on
horseback — whom he had right well appointed — and
John de Rybaud, with divers others, did make; but
no hurt on either side, saving that a man of Barte-
vil's slew one of them with his piece, the skirmish
was soon ended. We went a iiii. mile farther, and
having travelled that day a x mile, we camped nigh
Tentallon, and had at night a blind alarm. Here
had we first advertisement certain, that the Scots
were assembled in camp at the place where we
found them. Marching this morning at ii. mile, we
came to a fair river called Lyn, (Tyne,) running all
straight eastward toward the sea; over this river is
there a stone bridge that they name Linton bridge,
of a town thereby on our right hand, and eastward
as we went, that stands upon the same river. Our
horsemen and carriages passed through the water —
for it was not very deep — our footmen over the
bridge. The passage was very strait for an army,
and therefore the longer in setting over. Beyond
this bridge about a mile westward — for so me-
thought as then we turned — upon the same river on
the southside, stands a proper house, and of some
DUNBAR.
439
DUNBAR.
strength, belike, they call it Havlcs castle, and per-
taineth to tlie Earl of Bothwell, but kept as then
by the governor's appointment, who hold the Karl
in prison." — After the defeat at Pinkie in 1548,
Dunbar was burnt by the German mercenaries under
the Earl of Shrewsbury, on bis return to England
from the attack on Haddington.
On the assassination of Rizzio, Mary left Edin-
burgh, at midnight, in company with Darnley, and
proceeded to the palace of Seton, whence she pur-
sued her journey to the safer retreat of the castle of
Dunbar. Having thus seduced the King to abandon
his party, the Queen's next step was to avenge the
murder of her favourite. A proclamation was ac-
cordingly issued from Dunbar, on the 16th March,
1565, calling on the inhabitants of the sheriffdom of
Edinburgh in the constabulary of Haddington,
Linlithgow, Stirling, Lanark, Roxburgh, Selkirk,
Peebles, Berwick, Lauder, &c., to meet her at Had-
dington, on Sunday the 17th current, with eight
days' provisions. Sir James Melville, one of the
gentlemen of her chamber at Haddington, says that
she complained bitterly of Darnley's conduct in the
late assassination; and from that day forward never
met him with a smile. "On the 19th of April, in
parliament, the Queen taking regard and considera-
tion of the great and manifold good service done
and performed, not only to her flighness's honour,
weill, and estimation, but also to the commonweill
of her realm and lieges thereof, by James, Earl
Bothwell, and that, through bis great service fore-
s lid, he not only frequently put bis person in peril
and danger of his life, but also super-expended him-
self, alienated and mortgaged his livings, lands, and
heritage, in exorbitant sums, whereof he is not
hastily able to recover the same, and that he, bis
friends and kinsmen, for the most part, dwell next
adjacent to her Higbness's castle of Dunbar, and
that he is most habile to have the captaincy and
keeping thereof, and that it is necessarily required
that the same should be well entertained, main-
tained, and furnished, which cannot be done without
some yearly rent, and profit given to him for that
effect, and also for reward of his said service:
therefore, her Majesty infefted him and his heirs-
male in the office of the captaincy keeping of the
castle of Dunbar, and also in the crown lands of
Easter and Wester Barns, the lands of Newtonleyes,
Waldane, Rig, and Fluris, Myreside, with the links
and coning-yairs, (warrens,) &c, the mill, called
Brand's-smyth, West Barnes mill, with their lands,
and £10 of annual rent from the lands of Lochend,
with all the lands, privileges, and fees belonging to
the government of the castle, lying in the constabu-
lary of Haddington, and sheriffdom of Edinburgh,
holding of her Highness and her successors."
On the 21st April, Mary went to Stirling, to visit
her son; and on her return on the 24th, Bothwell.
with an armed party of 800 men, met her at Cramond
bridge, and taking her horse by the bridle, he con-
veyed her "full gently" to the castle of Dunbar.
The Earl of Huntly, Secretary Maitland, and Sir
James Melville, were taken captives with the
Queen, while the rest of her servants were allowed
to depart. Sir James Melville informs us, that next
day, when in Dunbar, he obtained permission to go
home. " There," continues he, " the Earl of Both-
well boasted he would many the Queen who would
or would not; yea, whether she would herself or
not." Captain Blackater, who had taken him,
alleged, that it was with the King's own consent.
Crawford justly observes: "The friendly love was
so highly contrasted betwixt this great princess and
her enormous subject, that there was no end thereof,
so that she suffered patiently to be led where the
lover list, and neither made obstacle, impediment,
clamour, or resistance, as in such accident used to
be, which she night have done by her princely
authority." " They had scarcely remained ten days
in the castle of Dunbar," says Buchanan, "with no
great distance between the Queen's chamber and
Bothwell's, when they thought it expedient to re-
turn to the castle of Edinburgh."
The nuptials of Mary and Bothwell, which were
celebrated on the 15th of May, 1567, excited the in-
dignation both of the nation and of foreign courts;
and a confederacy of nobles met at Stirling, levied
troops, and prepared to march against the murderer
of their King. The regicide fled with Mary tc
Borthwick cnstle, and when Lord Home environed
the castle, effected his escape, while the Queen, dis-
guised as a page, followed him to Dunbar. In a
few days after the Queen's arrival at Dunbar, 4,000
men had flocked to her standard. Confiding in her
numbers, Mary left Dunbar with Bothwell on the
14th June, with 200 hakbutters, the flower of her
forces, and some field-pieces from the castle; and
lodged the first night at Seton. This news having
reached the associated lords, they left Edinburgh
early next morning, (Sunday,) and met the Queen's
forces at Carberry-bill, near Musselburgh. Here
Bothwell a second time threw the gauntlet down to
his accusers; but after the challenge had been for
the second time accepted, he refused to fight. The
confederates "conquered ere a sword was drawn;"
and the poor Queen surrendered herself to the laird
of Grange, whilst the guilty Bothwell retraced his
steps to Dunbar. On the 26th of June, the lords of
council ordained " letters to be directed in the
Queen's name, to heralds, &c. to pass and charge
the keeper of the castle of Dunbar, to surrender the
same to the executor of the said letters in six hours;
because the Earl of Bothwell was reset and received
within the said castle." Bothwell, afraid that he
might be environed in Dunbar, fled by sea to
Orkney.
On the 21st September, 1567, four companies of
soldiers, under Captains Cunyngham, Murray, Mel-
ville, and Halliburton, were sent to take Dunbar,
which surrendered to the Regent on the 1st of Oc-
tober. On the meeting of parliament, December
1567, the castle of Dunbar, which had been so often
the asylum of the unfortunate and the guilty, was
ordered to be destroyed. In act 35. pari. 1. James
VI. we find the following item: " Forsamekle as
thair lies bene of befoir divers large and sumpteous
expensis maid be our soverane lordis predecessouris
and himself, in keiping, fortifying, and reparatioun
of the castell of Dunbar and forth of Inchekeith,
quhilkis ar baith unprofitabill to the realrne and not
abill to defend the enemeis thairof, in cais the samin
were assaultit: and now seeing that the said castell
and forth ar baith becumin sa ruinous, that the
samin sail allutterlie decay, except thair be sic ex-
pensis maid thairupon as is unhabill to be performit
without greit inconveniencis ; and alswa havand
consideration of ane act of parliament maid in um-
quhile our soverane lordis grandsehiris tyme, King
James the Feird, of maist wortbie memorie. ordinand
the said castell of Dunbar to be demolischit and
cassin downe, as in the act maid thairupon at mair
lenth is contenit, quhilk act as zit is not abrogat.
Therefore our soverane lord, with avise and con-
sent of my lord regent, and the estatis of this present
parliament, hes ordainit, and ordainis, That the cas-
tell of Dunbar and forth of Inchekeith be demo-
lischit and cassin down utterlie to the ground, and
distroyit in sic wyse that na foundment thairof be
occasioun to big thairupon in tyme eumming."
In 1581, among several grants excepted by James
DUNBAE.
440
DUNBAR.
VI from the general revocation of his deeds of
gilt made through importunity, mention is made of
the " forthe of Dunbar granted to William Boncle,
burgess of Dunbar." This, probably, referred to
the site of the fortress, and perhaps some ground
adjacent.
In 1650, Cromwell, at the head of 16,000 men,
entered Scotland; and, after some marching and
countermarching, engaged the Scottish army under
General Leslie, in the neighbourhood of Dunbar.
Leslie's position on Down-hill was admirable, and
his force was nearly double that of his opponent;
but rashly quitting his position, and descending into
the plain, they exposed themselves to a fatal charge
from Cromwell's van-brigade, which threw them
into confusion, and decided the fortune of the day
in a brief space. There is extant a letter from
Cromwell himself to Lenthal, the speaker, giving
a very fair though enthusiastic account of this me-
morable engagement. He says: " We having tryed
what we could to engage the enemy 3 or 4 miles
west of Edinburgh; that proving ineffectual, and
jur victual failing, we marched towards our ships
for a recruit of our wants. The enemy did not at all
trouble us in our rear, but marched the direct way
towards Edinburgh, and partly in the night and
morning, slips through his whole army, and quar-
ters himself in a posture easie to interpose between
us and our victual; but the Lord made him lose
the opportunity; and the morning proving exceed-
ing wet and dark, we recovered, by that time it was
light, into a ground where they could not hinder us
from our victual; which was a high act of the
Lord's providence to us. We being come into the
said ground, the enemy marched into the ground we
were last upon ; having no mind either to strive or
to interpose between us and our victual, or to fight;
being indeed upon this lock, hoping that the sick-
ness of our army would render their work more
easie by the gaining of time; whereupon we
marched to Muscleburgh to victual and to ship
away our sick men, where we sent aboard near 500
sick and wounded soldiers : and upon serious con-
sideration, finding our weakness so to increase, and
the enemy lying upon his advantages, at a general
councel it was thought fit to march to Dunbar, and
there to fortifie the town, which, we thought, if any
thing would provoke them to engage; as also, the
having a garrison there, would furnish us "with ac-
commodation for our sick men; would be a place for
a good magazin, (which we exceedingly wanted),
being put to depend upon the uncertainty of wea-
ther for landing provisions, which many times can-
not be done, though the being of the whole army
lay upon it; all the coasts from Leith to Berwick
not having one good harbour; as also to lie more
conveniently to receive our recruits of horse and
foot from Berwick.
" Having these considerations, upon Saturday,
the 30th of August, we marched from Muscleburgh
to Haddington, where, by that' time, we had got the
van-brigade of our horse, and our foot and train,
into their quarters; the enemy was marched with
that exceeding expedition, that they fell upon the
rear- forlorn of our horse, and put it in some disorder;
and indeed had liked to have engaged our rear-bri-
gade of horse with their whole army, had not the
Lord, by his providence, put a cloud over the moon,
thereby giving us opportunity to draw off those
horse to the rest of the army, which accordingly
was done without any loss, save of three or four of our
afore-mentioned forlorn, wherein the enemy — as we
believe — received more loss. The army being put
into a reasonable secure posture, towards midnight
the enemy attempted our quarters on the west end
of Heddington, hut — through the goodness of God - •
we repulsed them. The next morning we drew into
an open field, on the south side of Heddington; we
not judging it safe for us to draw to the enemy
upon his own ground, he being prepossessed thereof,
but rather drew back to give him way to come to
us, if he had so thought fit; and having waited
about the space of four or five hours, to see if he
would come to us, and not finding any inclination
of the enemy so to do, we resolved to go, according
to our first intendment, to Dunbar. By that time
we had marched three or four miles, we saw some
bodies of the enemies horse draw out of their quar-
ters; and by that time our carriages were gotten
neer Dunbar, their whole army was upon their
march after us; and, indeed, our drawing back in
this maner, with the addition of three new regi-
ments added to them, did much heighten their con-
fidence, if not presumption and arrogancy. The
enemy that night, we perceived, gathered towards
the hills, laboring to make a perfect interposition
between us and Berwick; and having, in this pos-
ture, a great advantage, through his better know-
ledg of the country, which he effected, by sending
a considerable party to the strait pass at Copper-
speth, [Cockburnspath] where ten men to hinder,
are better than forty to make their way: and truly
this was an exigent to us; wherewith the enemy
reproached us with that condition the parliament's
army was in, when it made its hard conditions with
the king in Cornwal.
" By some reports that have come to us, they had
disposed of us, and of their business, in sufficient
revenge and wrath towards our persons, and had
swallowed up the poor interest of England, believing
that their army and their king would have marched
to London without any interruption; it being told
us, we know not how truly, by a prisoner we took
the night before the fight, that their king was very
suddenly to come amongst them with those English
they allowed to be about him; but in what they
were thus lifted up, the Lord was above them.
The enemy lying in the posture before-mentioned,
having those advantages we lay very neer him, be-
ing sensible of our disadvantage, having some weak-
ness of flesh, but yet consolation and support from
the Lord himself, to our weak faith, wherein, I
believe, not a few amongst us shared, that, because
of their numbers, because of their advantages, be-
cause of their confidence, because of our weakness,
because of our strait, we were in the mount, and in
the mount the Lord would be seen, and that he
would finde out a way of deliverance and salvation
for us; and indeed we bad our consolations and our
hopes. Upon Monday evening, the enemy, whose
numbers were very great, as we heard, about 6,000
horse, and 16,000 foot, at least, ours drawn down,
aa to sound men, to about 7,500 foot, and 3,500
horse; the enemy drew down to their right wing
about two-thirds of their left wing of horse, to the
right wing shogging also their foot and train much
to the right, causing their right wing of horse to
edge down towards the sea. We could not well
imagine, but that the enemy intended to attempt
upon us, or to place themselves into a more exact
position of interposition. Major-general and myself
coming to the Earl of Roxburgh's house, [Brox-
mouth] and observing this posture, I told him, I
thought it did give us an opportunity and advantage
to attempt upon the enemy; to which he imme-
diately replyed, that he had thought to have said
the same thing to me: so that it pleased the Lord
to set this apprehension upon both of our hearts at
the same instant. We called for Colonel Monk,
and showed him the thing; and coming to our
DUNBAR.
441
DUNBARNIE.
quarter at night, and demonstrating our appre-
hensions to some of the colonels, they also cheer-
fully concurred ; we resolved, therefore, to put our
business into this posture, that six regiments of
horse, and three regiments and a half of foot should
march in the van; and that the major-general, the
lieutenant-general of the horse, and the commissary-
general, and Colonel Monk to command the brigade
of foot, should lead on the business; and that Col-
onel Pride's brigade, Colonel Overton's hrigade, and
the remaining two regiments of horse, should bring
up the cannon and rere; the time of falling on to
be by break of day ; but, through some delays, it
proved not to be so till six o'clock in the morning.
" The enemies word was ' The Covenant; ' which
it had been for divers days; ours, 'The Lord of
Ho9ts.' The major-general, lieutenant-general
Fleetwood, and commissary-general Whaley, and
Colonel Twisletons, gave the onset; the enemy
being in very good posture to receive them, having
the advantage of their cannon and foot against our
horse. Before our foot could come up, the enemy
made a gallant resistance, and there was a very hot
dispute at swords point between our horse and
theirs. Our first foot, after they had discharged
their duty, being over-powered with the enemy,
received some repulse, which they soon recovered;
but my own regiment, under the command of lieu-
tenant-colonel Goff, and my major White, did come
seasonably in; and at the push of pike, did repel the
stoutest regiment the enemy had there, meerly with
the courage the Lord was pleased to give; which
proved a great amazement to the residue of their
foot. This being the first action between the foot,
the horse in the meantime, did, with a great deal of
courage and spirit, beat back all opposition, charg-
ing through the bodies of the enemies horse and
their foot, who were, after the first repulse, given,
made, by the Lord of Hosts, as stubble to their
swords. Indeed, I believe, I may speak it without
partiality, both your chief commanders, and others,
in their several places, and soldiers also, were acted
with as much courage as ever hath been seen in any
action suce this war. I know they look on to be
named; and therefore I forbear particulars. The
best of the enemies horse and foot heing broken
through and through in less than an hour's dispute,
their whole army being put into confusion, it became
a total rout; our men having the chase and execu-
tion of them near eight miles. We helieve, that
upon the place and near about it, were about three
thousand slain. Prisoners taken of their officers,
you have this enclosed list; of private soldiers,
near 10,000. The whole baggage and train taken;
wherein was good store of match, powder, and bul-
let; all their artillery, great and small, thirty guns.
We are confident they have left behind them not less
than fifteen thousand arms. I have already brought
into me near two hundred colours, which I herewith
send you. What officers of quality of theirs are
killed, we yet cannot learn ; hut yet surely divers
are, and many men of quality are mortally wounded,
as Colonel Lumsdel, the Lord Liberton, and others:
and that, which is no small addition, I do not believe
we have lost 20 men; not one commissioned officer
slain that I hear of, save one coronet, and Major
Rooksby, since dead of his wounds ; and not many
mortally wounded. Colonel Whaley only cut in the
hand- wrist, and his horse twice shot and killed under
him, but he well, recovered another horse, and went
on in the chase. Thus you have the prospect of
one of the most signal mercies God hath done for
England and his people this war."
The subsequent history of Dunbar presents no-
thing very memorable. It partook of the alarm and
confusion consequent on the approach of the High-
land army in 1745. In 1779, Paul Jones's squad-
ron hovered a brief space in front of the town ;
and, in 1781, Captain Fall, another maritime ad-
venturer, threatened a descent, but sheered off
on perceiving preparations making for giving
him a warm reception. — George Home of Man-
derstone, noticed in our account of the parish
church of Dunbar, was created Earl of Dunbar in
1605, six years before his death. A viscountcy of
Dunbar was created in 1620 in the family of Con-
stable, and became dormant in 1721 at the death of
the fourth Viscount. A dean of Dunbar, in the 15th
century, became bishop of Moray; another dean of
Dunbar, in the 16th century, became a senator of
the College of Justice; and a rector of Dunbar,
in the 17th century, became successively bishop of
the Isles and bishop of Caithness. Dr. Carfrae, who
became minister of Dunbar in 1795, was famous for
his eloquence. A family of the name of Fall, who
became during the last century the most extensive
merchants in Scotland, were long the chief magis-
trates of Dunbar, and behaved as public benefactors,
yet have not left a descendant in the town, nor even
a tombstone. Mr. Polk, the recent president of the
United States of America, is said to have been the
lineal descendant of Mr. Pollock, who was provost
of Dunbar in 1745-6, and who died in 1752.
DUNBAENIE, a parish, containing the post-
office village of Bridge-of-Earn, and the village
of Kintillo, in the south-east of Perthshire. It is
bounded by the parishes of Perth, Ehy nd, Abernethy,
Dron, Forgandenny, and Forteviot. Its length
eastward is 4 miles ; and its greatest breadth is also
4 miles; but its average breadth is only 1£ mile.
It is intersected by the gently flowing Earn ; and its
scenery is of very uncommon beauty. The " softly
swelling" Ochil hills approach its southern border,
and appear almost to enclose it. The west is occu-
pied by gentle rising grounds, adorned with planta-
tions, avenues, and hedgerows. On the north is the
beautiful hill of Moncrieff, the view from which,
Pennant called "the glory of Scotland," and the
description of which in ' The Fair Maid of Perth,'
cannot fail to be in the recollection of many of our
readers. The soil of the parish consists principally
of clay, till, and loam, and has been cultivated with
great success. There are several mineral springs;
and those of Pitcaithly are in great repute and
much frequented. Whinstone and sandstone are
extensively quarried. The principal landowners are
Sir Thomas Moncrieffe, Bart., Craigie of Dunbarnie,
Grant of Kilgraston, and Stoddart of Ballendrick.
The real rental about 1842 was nearly £7,000. The
yearly value of agricultural produce was estimated
in 1842 at £15,935. Assessed property in 1866,
£8,236 1 Is. lOd. The high road from Perth to Edin-
burgh, and the Perth fork of the North British rail-
way, traverse the parish; and the latter has a station
at Bridge-of-Earn. Population in 1831, 1,162; in
1861, 1,035. Houses, 201.
This parish is in the presbytery of Perth, and
synod of Stirling and Perth. Patron, Sir Thomas
Moncrieffe, Bart. Stipend, £178 17s. 7d.; glebe,
£13 8s. Schoolmaster's salary now is £60, with
from £20 to £25 fees, and about £8 other emolu-
ments. The parish church stands in the immediate
vicinity of the Bridge-of-Earn. It was built in 1787,
and contains 650 sittings. The ancient parish
church stood a mile farther west, near the mansion
of Dunbarnie. There were anciently also a chapel
at Moncrieff, and a church at Kirkpottie, both ap-
pendages of the church at Dunbarnie. The. former
of these still continues to be the burying place of
Moncrieffe ; the latter has been long in ruins. Therp
DUNBARROW.
442
DUNBLANE.
is a Free church in tlie parish ; receipts in 1865,
£215 13s. 6Jd. There are also a Free church school
and a public library.
DUNBARROW, a detached district of the parish
of Dunnichen, Forfarshire. It comprises a hill
which rises about 700 feet above the level of the sea,
and bears on its summit the foundation vestiges of
an ancient fort.
DUNBAETON. See Dumbarton.
DUNBEATII, a post-office village, and several
other objects of interest, in the parish of Latheron,
Caithness-shire. The village stands on the road
from Inverness to Thurso, 1i miles north-north-east
of Berriedale, and 20 south-west of Wick. It is an
ancient place, and was once the kirktown of a par-
ish, which is now incorporated with Latheron.
Here are an inn and a parochial school. Fairs are
held on the last Tuesday of July and the first Tues-
day of November, both old style. Population of the
village, 40. Dunbeath water rises in two head-
streams on the western border of Latheron, and runs
about 7 miles south-eastward, to the head of a
small bay, called Dunbeath bay. in the vicinity of
the village. The bay is an excellent fishing station.
The "bluff old castle" of Dunbeath, on a narrow
neck of land, impending on one side over the sea,
and on the other over a deep chasm into which the
tide flows, was taken and garrisoned by the Marquis
of Montrose, in 1650. There is also an estate of
Dunbeath.
DUNBLANE, a parish, containing the post-town
of Dunblane, and the villages of Kinbuck, Balhad-
die, Buttergask, Greenloaning, and Eottearn, in the
south of Perthshire. It is bounded by Comrie,
Mutb.il, Blackford, Logie, Lecropt, and Kilmadock.
Its length, east and west, is about 9 miles; and its
breadth is about 6 miles. It comprehends the prin-
cipal part of Strathallan, with a skirting of the
Ochil hills on the east, and a skirting of the braes
of Doune on the west; and being at the same time
nearly equidistant from the German and the Atlan-
tic oceans, and from the Moray and the Solway friths,
with strong near shelter on most sides by the Ochils
and the Grampians, it enjoys a singularly mild
climate, free alike from the acerbity of the eastern
winds and the humidity of the western clouds. The
Allan flows first along the north-eastern boundary,
and then direct through the interior. Its course
below the town lies through a deep and finely
wooded glen, and is in many places overhung by
considerable precipices. Its channel is rocky, and
the stream rapid and turbulent, but beautifully
clear. The walk along the eastern bank, from the
Bridge-of-AUan to Dunblane, is delightfully seques-
tered, winding, with alternate ascent and descent,
through a thickly-wooded dell, full of sweet glimpses.
That part of the parish which lies east of the Allan
forms the western terminating declivity of the Ochil
range. The part toward the north-west rises to a
considerable height, forming the commencement of a
dark heathy ridge which runs in a north-westerly
direction, and makes a conspicuous object in the
scenery. The part to the north of the town is in
general bleak and dreary; and that toward the east
and the north-west, is composed of heaths, moors,
and swamps. The hills afford good pasture to sheep
and black cattle. The arable land lies all on the red
sandstone formation, and varies in its soil from
gravel to a reddish clay. There are nearly twenty
landowners ; the chief of whom are Stirling of Kip-
pendavie, Stirling of Keir, Sir James Campbell, Bart.,
and the Earl of Kinnoul. Value of assessed pro-
perty in 1843, £14,300; in 1866, £19,075 12s. 7d.
There are three manufacturing establishments at
respectively the town of Dunblane, the mill of Keir,
and the village of Kinbuck. The principal mansions
are Kippendavie-house, Keir-house, and Kilbride-
castle, — the first and second of which are modern,
and the third ancient. Sheriffmuir, the scene of the
battle in 1715 between the Earl of Mar and the
Marquis of Argyle, commences a little to the north-
east of the town, and extends, with a moorish sur-
face, to the eastern border. See SnEErFPiiniK. The
road from Stirling to Crieff and the Scottish Cen-
tral railway pass up the centre of the parish; and
the latter has stations at Dunblane, Kinbuck, and
Greenloaning. Population in 1831, 3,228; in 1861
2,52S; Houses, 407.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £274 18s. 2d.; glebe, £15. Unappropriated
teinds, £331 163. Schoolmaster's salary, £35, with
other emoluments; that of assistant, £49. The
parish church is the chancel of the cathedral, con-
taining about 500 sittings. There is a Free church
in the town : attendance, 320 ; sum raised in 1865,
£243 9s. lid. There are two United Presbyterian
churches, — the one in tire town, with an attendance
of 360, the other at Greenloaning, with an attend-
ance of 110. There is also an elegant new Episco-
palian chapel. There are Free church, Episcopal,
and infant schools in the town, and a General As-
sembly's school at Kinbuck.
The Town of Dunblane stands on the river Allan,
and on the road from Stirling to Crieff, 2 miles north
of Bridge of Allan, 3 miles east of Doune, 5 north of
Stirling, and 28 south-west by south of Perth. Hav-
ing formerly been the seat of a bishopric, it some-
times lays claim to the designation of city; but
it is very far from presenting an urban appearance,
in either extent or aspect, and must be content to
rank as a mere village or small town, of not the
highest character. Richard Franck, who travelled
in Scotland about the year 1658, calls it "dirty
Dunblane," and says, "Let us pass by it, and not
cumber our discourse with so inconsiderable a cor-
poration." The town has no doubt improved much
since that traveller's day, yet not more than other
towns of its class; so that, as compared to these, it
still deserves in some degree his alliterative reproach.
The principal street is narrow and inconvenient;
and many of the houses are old and mean. The
town's situation, however, is pleasant, a great part
of it being built on the sloping banks of the Allan,
and close by the side of the river; while the vener-
able cathedral, with its high square tower, and its
long line of arched windows, relieves at least, if not
redeems, the paltriness and poverty which surround
it. Most of the town stands on the, left or eastern
bank of the river; and only a few houses stand on
the opposite side, arranged into a straggling street.
The road from Stirling, coming up from the Bridge
of Allan, enters the town at the railway station, and
crosses the river by a bridge of a single arch, which
was formerly narrow, and was originally built about
the beginning of the 15th century by Finlay Der-
mock, bishop of Dunblane, but was recently reno-
vated and widened. The principal street of the
town runs in a direction nearly parallel to the
stream, and ascends from the bridge towards the
cathedral.
The cathedral is said — though apparently with
little evidence — to have been founded by David I.,
in 1142. It is certain, however, that it was restored
or rather rebuilt by Clemens, Bishop of Dunblane,
about 1240. The greater part of it has been un-
roofed, and is otherwise in a ruinous state; but the
chancel, which is still used as the parish-church,
is tolerably entire. The eastern window, and a few
of the entrances have been partially renewed, and
DUNBLANE.
4 in
DUNCANSBY.
this part of tho building is kept in a goort state of
repair. Some of the choristers' seats, and those of
the bishop and dean, all of thom of oak quaintly
carved, still remain j and two ancient sarcophagi,
and tho monument of a warrior and his lady, are
preserved in this part of the building. There are
also here three blue marble grave-stones winch
cover the bones of Lady Margaret Drummond,
mistress of James IV., and her "sisters Euphemia
and Sybilla, who were poisoned at Drummond-castle
in 1502. In the nave, most of the prebendal stalls
are entire; and the entrance and the fine west win-
dow have suffered little injury; but the roof has
fallen in, and the building is otherwise much decayed.
In 1840 workmen were employed in securing it
against further dilapidation. New mortar has been
carefully applied to all the interstices, and cramp-
irons have been introduced where necessary. The
length of the cathedral is 216 feet, its breadth 56,
and the height of the wall to the battlements 50
feet. The tower is placed along-side the building.
Its height to the top of the little wooden spire, is
128 feet. The Bishop's palace stood to the south of
the cathedral, on the edge of the declivity toward
the river, and a few vestiges of its lower apartments
and retaining wall may yet be traced. The United
Presbyterian church and the Free church are very
handsome structures, the former built in 1835; and
the latter in 1854.
Dunblane is a burgh- of-barony. It is situated
within the barony of Cromlix, the superior of which,
Lord Kinnoul, formerly named a bailie who had a
court-house within the town. The court-house is
now occupied by the sheriff-substitute of this dis-
trict of Perthshire, who resides and holds bis court
at Dunblane. Both the sheriff-court and the com-
missary-court are held here every Wednesday dur-
ing session. A new gaol was built in 1842, on the
site of an old mansion known as Strathallan-house
or castle. The town has no charter nor constitution
of any kind, nor any property or common good. A
weekly market is held on Thursday; and fairs,
principally for cattle, are held on the first Wednes-
day of March, old style, on the Tuesday after the
26th of May, on the 10th of August, old style, and
the first Tuesday of November, old style. The town
was lighted with gas in 1841. Here are a branch of
the Union bank of Scotland, five insurance offices,
a public library, a public reading-room, and a curl-
ing club. The library was originally the property
of Bishop Leighton, and was bequeathed by him for
the use of the clergy of the diocese of Dunblane. It
consisted at first of about 1,400 volumes; but has
been materially enlarged. A small building was
erected for it in the main street, near the cathedral,
with a marble tablet in front, bearing the Bishop's
arms and the inscription " Bibliotheca Leigbton-
iana ; " and this building now contains also the pub-
lic reading-room. The chief inn of the town is
the Dunblane hotel. A branch railway goes from
the Dunblane station of the Scottish Central to
Donne and Callander. Population of the town in
1841. 1,911; in 1861, 1.709. Houses, 29Tj.
At a spot about 2 miles north of the town, and
within the barony of Cromlix, are two important
mineral wells. These were casually discovered in
1814; and they promised for a time to become very
famous. The stronger of the two was found by
Dr. Murray to contain, in a pint of its water, 24
grains of muriate of soda, 18 of muriate of lime,
3'5 of sulphate of lime, -5 of carbonate of lime,
and '17 oxide of iron. The other is precisely similar
in composition, but only a little weaker. The
waters are simply a mild saline aperient, akin in
character to those of Airthrey and Pitcaithly; but,
though they had been worthless in themselves, they
would have deserved notice as an attraction to a very
salubrious climate. Many strangers, for some years,
were drawn to them; a lodge was erected close to
the town, for affording a convenient supply of the
waters; and zealous efforts were made by some of
the inhabitants to fit up their houses as summer
lodgings. But the rivalry of the Bridge-of- Allan,
in an equally good climate, with more pleasant
environs, and with a stronger similar water of the
wells of Airthrey. has been triumphant.
Dunblane is supposed to have been originally a
cell of the Culdecs. The period of its erection into
a see has not been ascertained; but the first bishop
is said to have been appointed by David I. The see
comprehended portions of Perthshire and Stirling-
shire. Maurice, who was appointed bishop by Ro-
bert Brace in 1319, had, while abbot of Inchaffray,
distinguished himself on the field of Bannockburn.
At a later period the see was held by a man eminent
in a far other field, Robert Leighton, afterwards
Archbishop of Glasgow. This gentle and heavenly
minded man of genius was bishop of Dunblane from
1662 to 1670, when he was raised to the dignity of
Archbishop. He was long remembered in Dun-
blane by the name of "the Good bishop;" and a re-
tired, shady path near the river, which he used to
frequent, is to this day fondly pointed out as " the
Bishop's walk." — Dunblane gives the title of Vis-
count, in the peerage of England, to the noble family
of D'Arcy-Osbome, Dukes of Leeds, — created Vis-
count Dunblane in 1673 and Duke of Leeds in 1694.
DUNBOG, a parish in the north of Fifeshire. Its
post town is Newburgh, 4 miles west-north-west of
the church. It is bounded by the frith of Taj', and
by the parishes of Flisk, Abdic, and Monimail. Its
greatest length is about 4 miles, and its greatest
breadth about 1A mile; but its area comprises only
1,820 acres of arable land, 270 of bill pasture or
waste ground, and about 30 of woodland, — alto-
gether about 2,120 acres. Only the tip of a tongue
of the parish touches the Tay. The main body
consists of part of two ridges of hill, of an extreme
altitude of about 500 feet above sea-level, and part
of the intervening valley. The northern ridge is a
continuation of Norman's law, is cultivated to the
summit, and commands a superb view of the basin
and screens of the Tay, of lower Stratheam, and
of the frontier Grampians. The southern ridge is
bleak, and comprises all the barren land. The Earl
of Zetland is the principal landowner; and there are
two others. The yearly value of raw produce was
estimated in 1836 at £1 1 ,707. The value of assessed
property in 1843 was £2,994 5s. lid.; in 1866, £3,639
10s. 8d. Population in 1831, 197; in 1861, 207.
Houses, 46.
This parish is in the presbytery of Cupar, and
synod of Fife. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £225
18s. 2d.; glebe, £8 15s. Unappropriated teinds,
£138 18s. 8d. Schoolmaster's salary is £52 10s.,
with about £15 fees. The church was built in 1803,
and contains 240 sittings. There was formerly a
village of Dunbog, which had a weekly market, bti t
is now quite extinct. There was also a preceptory
of the monks of Balmarino, the site of which came
afterwards to be occupied by the mansion of Dun-
bog, which is still standing, and belongs to the Earl
of Zetland. To the south-east of this is the ruin of
the castle of Collaimie, which for five centuries was
the seat of a family of the name of Barclay.
DUN-BPJDGE. See Dnx.
DUNBUCK. See Dujibuck.
DUNCAN. See Deekxess and St. Akdeews.
DUNCANSBY, a township, a bay, a promontory,
and two natural pillars, in the parish of Canisbay,
DUNCOW.
444
DUNDEE.
Caithness-shire. See Canisbay. The promontory,
or "head," is situated in north latitude 58° 38', and
west longitude 3° 2', and forms the north-cast ex-
tremity of the mainland of Scotland, 1J mile north-
east of John o' Groat's house. The coast contiguous
to it is exceedingly bold, and presents a wild and
varied magnificence of scenic character. The head
itself has a circular shape, and measures about 2
miles in circumference. It is covered with green
sward to the very brink of the surrounding rock,
with an intermixture of short heath. Towards the
sea — which encompasses two-thirds of it — the head
is one continued precipice; and, during the season
of incubation, is frequented by innumerable flocks
of sea-fowls. Near the top of the rock, and on that
side which faces the Orkneys, is a vast cavern called
by the neighbouring inhabitants, the Glupe. On
the highest part of the head are the remains of an
ancient watch-tower. The prospect hence is exceed-
ingly grand, comprehending a vast and varied ex-
tent of intermixed land and sea. The Pentland
frith, in all its amplitude, spreads away from the
spectator's feet. The Orkney islands appear dis-
persed athwart the waters in just the groupings and
the distances which give them the picturesquest
possible effect. Much of the German ocean, and
more of the Moray frith, with many bold parts of
their seaboard, in the hills of Morayshire, Banffshire,
and Aberdeenshire, are clearly under view. — The
two natural pillars of Duncansby are stupendous
pyramidal masses of naked sandstone, popularly
called the stacks of Duncansby. They rear their
fantastic summits a great way into the air, and ap-
pear to a stranger approaching them like huge
pinnacles of some old Gothic pile. The township
of Duncansby has a population of about 300.
DUNCOMB. See Ellfathiok (West).
DUNCOW, a post-office village in the parish of
Kirkmahoe, Dumfries-shire. It stands on the Dun-
cow burn, and on the road from Tinwald to Auld-
girth- Bridge, 5 miles north of Dumfries. Duncow
burn rises in the south of Closebum, traverses Kirk-
mahoe from north to south, dividing it into two
nearly equal parts, and, a little below Kirkmahoe
village, falls into the Nith. The course of this
stream is about 7 miles. At the village of Duncow
is a round hill or doon, whence it derives its name,
and which formerly gave name to the barony of the
Comyns, the opponents of Eobert Bruce. In this
village James V. left his attendants before he paid
his angry visit to Sir John Charteris of Amisfield.
Till recently a large stone marked the site of the
cottage in which the King slept. The village has
a school and a parochial library. Population, 121.
Houses, 25.
DUNCRAGGAN. See Venachoir (Loch).
DUNCRIV1E, a village in the part of the parish
of Arngask, which belongs to Kinross-shire. Popula-
tion, 106. Houses, 25.
DUNCRUIB, the estate and residence of Lord
Rollo, in the parish of Dunning, Perthshire. Lord
Rollo is a lateral descendant of Rollo the Dane, and
of Rollo first Duke of Normandy, through branches
who came to England with William the Conqueror,
and to Scotland in the reign of David I. The estate
of Duncruib was a grant to the family of Rollo, in
1380, by David Earl of Strathearn, with the consent
of King Robert his father. In 1512, it was erected
into a free barony; and in 1651, its then proprietor,
Sir Andrew Rollo, was raised'by Charles II. to the
dignity of Baron Rollo of Duncruib.
DUNCRUIN. See Kilmaronock.
DUNDAFF. See Nixian's (St.).
DUNDAFF LINN. See Clyde (The).
DUNDALAV, a rude fortress on the summit of a
hill, in the farm of Dalchully in Badenoch, Inverness-
shire. The hill is conical, and has an elevation ol
about 600 feet above the contiguous ground. The
ascent is uncommonly steep and rocky, precluding
all access except on the south side, where a narrow
path seems to have been cleared for a road. The
top is a beautiful horizontal plot of ground, com-
manding a very extensive prospect of the valley in
all directions. Around this green there has been
built a very strong wall of flat stones or flag's, with-
out mortar of any kind, whose thickness is 18 feet,
and circumference 1,500; the height 8 feet perpen-
dicular where it is most entire. Upon the north-
east side there has been a turret, or citadel, con-
structed with the same materials, whose wall is also
circular, and contains a reservoir for holding water.
The wall of the citadel seems to have been extremely
massy, from the quantity of stones that have fallen
from it, which is much greater than from any other
part of the building. The labour of collecting and
carrying up-hill such an immense heap of stones as
these buildings required, must have been great be-
yond conception, when we reflect, that very likely
it was performed by mere bodily strength, without
the aid of any mechanical powers. On both sides
of this hill there are two other rocky eminences, but
much inferior in size and altitude, which might,
however, have been the cause of the name given to
the principal one, Dun-da-lav, that is, ' the Two-
handed hill.' At the distance of a few miles down
the valley of Badenoch, there is another fortress,
similar to this one, at Dalchully, but not so entire,
which probably communicated with Craigellachie,
still farther down. See Dundornadil..
DUNDARDIL. See Dokes.
DUNDARGUE. See Aberdour.
DUNDAS. See Dalmeny.
DUNDEE, a parish on the southern border ol
Forfarshire. It comprises a main body and a de-
tached district. The main body lies along the frith
of Tay, and contains the greater part of the town of
Dundee. It is bounded on the north by Lift* Mains,
and Murroes ; on the east by Monifieth ; and on the
west by Lift*. It is of an elongated form, stretching
from east to west, broadest at the east end, and nar-
rowest at the middle; and it measures diagonally,
from Ninewells on the south-west to Gaigie on the
north-east, 6J miles, and has an average breadth of
1 J to If. The detached district commences about J
a mile north of the north-east part of the main body,
is bounded on the west by Tealing and on all other
sides by Murroes, and has nearly the figure of a
square, l£ mile wide. The whole parish is com-
puted to comprise about 3,812 acres of cultivated
land, 135 of waste land, and 254 of land under wood.
The surface of the mair body rises with an easy
ascent from the Tay. Behind the burgh it swells
somewhat suddenly up, and forms the conspicuous
hill called Dundee-law, whose summit is 525 feet
above the level of the Tay ; and toward the west it
again swells considerably and forms the lesser eleva-
tion of Balgay-hill. The appearance of the whole
slope toward the Tay, as seen from the river or the
opposite shore, is beautiful. Balgay-hill, in addition
to its own fine form, possesses the attraction of a
sylvan dress; and Dundee-law is cultivated up its
whole ascent, till it shoots into a round, green, and
unusually pleasing summit. The soil, to the west
of the town, is thin and dry; in the north-west of
the parish, and behind Dundee-law, is poor, upon a
bottom of till; and, in the eastern division, in
general, good, being partly alluvial and partly
mixed with clay. A part of the eastern division is
intersected by the Dichty and the Fithie, which form
a confluence just before leaving it. The united
DUNDEE.
Ui
DUNDEE.
streams form the southern boundary of the parish
for ahout 600 yards. Tods-burn and Wallace-burn
will bo afterwards noticed. The Tay, along the
parish, varies in width from 1 mile to 2A; and is
marred by shifting sand banks, upwards of a mile
in length, parallel with the channel of the river.
On the lands of Balgay are largo rooks of porphyry;
and the greater part of the parish i> incumbent on
rocks of igneous origin. The detached district
abounds with excellent freestone. At one quarry
this is extensively wrought; and pavement and
slate are also raised in small quantity. The town
is supplied with building-stone chiefly from JjOohee
and the vicinity, and bv railway from the parishes
of Strathmartine and -Auchterhouse. The supply of
pavement, for local use and for exportation, is chiefly
from the immediate neighbourhood of the Sidlaw
ridge. In recent times the true sandstone of the
carboniferous group has been brought from Fife-
shire, and used in some of the principal buildings ;
but in the sulphureous atmosphere of Dundee,
it soon acquires a bloated and unseemly appear-
ance. The yearly value of the agricultural pro-
duce was estimated in 1832 at .£29.912 ; but it is
now somewhat less. The landowners are numer-
ous; but the principal estates are Craigie, Claypots,
Duntroon, Drumgeith, Baldovie, Pitkerro, Dudhope,
Clepington, and Blackness. The parish is tra-
versed by railways, east, west, and north, diverging
from Dundee, and also enjoys great facilities of com-
munication by road and water. On the summit of
Dundee-law are vestiges of a fortification, tradition-
ally ascribed to Edward I. According to tradition,
a Pictish force having encamped on Tothel- brow in
the parish of Strathmartine, the Scottish army,
under Alpine, occupied the law, rushed to battle on
the intervening plain, and having been defeated,
suffered the mortification of seeing their king cap-
tured and beheaded. This event occurred in 834.
The view from the top of Dundee-law is panoramic,
extensive, and splendidly picturesque. " East and
south the prospect is bounded by the reach of the
visual organs alone. The mouth of the Tay, the
bay and towers of St. Andrews, the German ocean
to the horizon, and the greater part of Fifeshire, are '
spread out as in a map. Turning to the opposite
point of the compass, the dark ridges of the Sidlaw
hills, with a broad valley intervening, and the more
distant peaks of the Grampians, meet the eye. The
neighbourhood of Dundee affords no scene at all to
be compared to the glories of sunset witnessed from
the top of the law." Assessed rental of the parish
in 1865, £169,743 7s. Population in 1831, 46,355;
in 1861, 68,986. Houses, 3,771.
This parish is the scat of a presbytery in the
synod of Angus and Mearns. The original parish
church was dedicated to St. Clement, the tutelar
saint of the town, and stood on the site of the pre-
sent town-house. But the parish church at the
Reformation was a structure dedicated to St. Mary,
connected with the great tower in the centre of the
town, and forming the choir or eastern part of a quasi-
cathedral edifice erected there. Another portion of
the same edifice soon came into use as a conjoint
parish church ; the former then taking the name of
the Old or East church, and the latter the name of
the New or South church. In the latter part of the
18 th century, a third portion came into use, first as
a chapel of ease, and next as another conjoint parish
church, under the name of the Cross or North
church ; and at the same time, a new structure was
built in the form of an addition to the previous
edifice, as still another conjoint parish church, un-
der the name of the Steeple or West church. From
1609 the East and the South churches had been
jointly served by three ministers; but in 1823, a
large place of worship which had been erected in
1800 in North Tay street by the Independents, was
purchased for the uses of the Establishment, to be
constituted a fifth conjoint parish church, under the
name of St. David's church, and to be maintained, as
to its ministry, by transferring to it one of the three
incumbencies of the East and South churches.
Thus, in the parish of Dundee, are there five par-
ish churches and five parochial incumbencies. The
patron of the whole is the town-council. The
stipend of the first minister is ahout £320, with a
glebe worth about £27 10s., and a manse; and the
stipend of each of the other ministers is £300. The
four churches, East, South, North, and West, re-
mained in agglomeration all around the great tower
till the 3d of January, 1841, when a great fire gutted
the South and the North, and nearly reduced the
East to ruin. The South and the East have since
been rebuilt; and the Gaelic church in South Tay-
street has been put by purchase in lieu of the North.
In ecclesiastical record, the Old or East church is
known as St. Mary's, the New or South as St. Paul's,
the Cross or North as St. John's, and the Steeple or
West as St. Clement's. A notice of the original
buildings, together with the sequents of the fire in
them, must be reserved for its more appropriate
place in our account of the public edifices of the
town. There are also in the parish three chapels
of ease, — St. Andrews, erected in 1774; Chapelshade,
constituted in 1791; and Wallacetown, built in
1853. The appointment of the ministers of St. An-
drews and Chapelshade is vested in the male com-
municants; and the stipend of each is ahout £200.
In 1851, there were within the parliamentary burgh
of Dundee 1 1 places of worship belonging to the
Establishment, — 8 of which contained a total of
8,884 sittings; and the attendance at the whole on
the afternoon of the Census day amounted to 6,334.
The Free churches in the parish, together witli
the amount raised bv each in 1864-5, are — St. Paul's,
£1,638 2s.5id.; St. J'olm's, £985 lls.8d.; St. David's,
£585 9s. 8d.; St. Andrew's, £1,045 19s. ll|d.; St.
Peter's, £779 16s.; Dudhope, £445 17s. 10Jd.; Wal-
lacetown, £257 3s. 8d.; Chapelshade, £717 19s. 6id.;
Hilltown, £737 16s. 3id.; VVillison, £578 15s. l^d.;
Gaelic, £331 12s. Id.;" Chalmers', £171 13s.; Well-
gate, £279 14s. 2Jd.; and St. Enoch's, newly formed.
In 1851, there were, within the parliamentary burgh,
11 Free churches, containing a total of 11,518 sit-
tings, and attended in the afternoon of the Census
day by 7,452 persons. The United Presbyterian
churches in the parish are now two in Bell-street,
and five in School-wynd, Tay-square, Butterburn,
Temple-lane, and Cowgate ; and containing alto-
gether 5,364 sittings. In 1851, there were, within
the parliamentary burgh, 9 United Presbyterian
churches, containing a total of 6,818 sittings, and
attended on the afternoon of the Census day by
4,614 persons. The Independent chapels in the
parish, in connexion with the Congregational Union,
are five, situated in Constitution-road, Princes-
street, Lindsay-street, Castle-street, and Panmure-
street. In 1851, five Independent chapels then
within the burgh, not all the same as the above,
contained a total of 3,494 sittings, and were attend-
ed on the afternoon of the Census day by 1,742 per-
sons. The other places of worship at present in the
parish are a Reformed Presbyterian, an Original Se-
cession; two Evangelical Union ; three Episcopalian,
St. Paul's, St. Mary Magdalene's, and St. Salvador's;
an old Scottish Independent, in Euclid-street ; a
Glassite, in King-street ; two Baptist ; a Wesleyan
Methodist; a Primitive Methodist; a Quakers'; a
Christian Church; a Disciples'; a Christian Union-
DUNDEE.
446
DUNDEE.
ist ; two Roman Catholic, in Netliergate and Hill-
town ; and a Mormonite or Latter-Day Saints. But
in the Census returns of 1851 for the parliamentary
burgh, several of these do not appear, several others
appear, and several have different designations; so
that the list, together with sittings and attendance,
stands as follows: — 1 Original Secession, 320 sit-
tings, 205 attendants; 2 Episcopalian, 900 sittings,
350 attendants; 3 Baptist, 430 sittings, 205 attend-
ants; 1 Wesleyan Methodist, 550 sittings, 342 at-
tendants; 1 Independent Methodist, 600 sittings,
150 attendants; 2 Evangelical Union, 700 sittings,
280 attendants; 3 Isolated Congregations, 440 sit-
tings, 230 attendants; 2 Roman Catholic, 1,900
sittings, 1,000 attendants; and 1 Latter-Day Saints',
90 attendants.
The principal educational institution of Dundee
is the High School. This comprises English
school, grammar school, and academy. These
were united, at the erection of the present seminary
buildings, 32 years ago, at the head of Reform-street.
The academy was previously the most considerable
of the three. It was founded about the year 1792,
and was aided by a legacy of £6,000 by Mr. Web-
ster of London, which became available in 1800:
and it had 25 small bursaries for mathematical pu-
pils. The conjoint seminaries are superintended by
a board of twenty directors, — half of whom are from
the town-council and half from subscribers; and
are conducted by seven male teachers and two fe-
male teachers. The principal branches taught are
mathematics, physical science, geography, classics,
modern languages, drawing, English grammar,
writing, arithmetic, music, and needle-work. The
other schools of Dundee are numerous, various, and
aggregately good. Some are of high mark for po-
lite education; many of ordinary range for the
common branches; and a few of special adaptation,
for the children of certain classes or conditions of
the community. In 1832, the total number of all
kinds in the parish was 80, which were computed
to be attended by 3,700 children; and since that
time, both the number of the schools and the at-
tendance on them have no doubt increased corre-
spondingly with the increase of the population.
About 27 years ago, schools for the first time, then
5 in number, were established in connexion with the
Dundee factories; and in 1845, the Factory Report
pronounced these schools " excellent."
DUNDEE, a market town, an extensive sea-port,
a great seat of manufacture, a royal burgh, the third
town of Scotland in point of population, and the
rival of the first in proportionate rapidity of increase,
chiefly in the parish of Dundee, but partly also in
the parish of Lift* and Benvie, on the southern bor-
der of Forfarshire. It stands in north latitude 56°
27' 33" and west longitude 3° 2' 55", on the north
side of the estuary of the Tay, 4 miles west of
Broughty Ferry, 14 south by west of Forfar, 17
south-west by south of Arbroath, 22 east-north-east
of Perth, and 42 by way of Cupar- Fife north by east
of Edinburgh. It occupies chiefly a stripe of
ground along the base of an acclivity, and seems
pent up by Dundee-law and Balgay-hill as if they
were a pursuing foe, urging it into the sea; but
though it has at both ends crept along the Tay and
sought to escape the pressure from behind, it has
also begun to tread, in spacious streets, upon the
tower acclivities in its rear.
Till recently the royalty was confined within
narrow limits. From the south side of Balgay-hill
a rill called Tod's-burn flows eastward, and, hav-
ing been joined by another on the west side of
the law, pursues a south-east course, till, after in-
tersecting the modern town nearly in the middle, it
falls into the Tay. None of the united stream now
appears above ground. Another rill, called AVal-
lace-burn, rises on the north of the law. runs first
eastward and next southward, and then falls into
the Tay J of a mile east of the mouth of the former.
Between these rills, on low flat ground along the
shore, stood ancient Dundee ; consisting of only two
principal streets, — the Seagate next the Tay, and
the Cowgate on a somewhat parallel line to the
north. West from the mouth of the first stream,
rocks of from 50 to 90 feet above the level of the
Tay swell up from the low grounds; and these, be-
fore being assailed by the levelling operations of
modern improvement, were of considerably greater
elevation, and must have formed a fine feature of
the burghal landscape. On these rocks, at the
point where they were highest, stood for centuries
the ancient castle of Dundee. This important
stronghold probably resembled, in its architectural
features, the fortified edifices of the 11th century;
but has long since disappeared.
The modern town of Dundee has bounded far be-
yond the limits of the ancient burgh. In one great
line of street — somewhat sinuous, but over most of
the distance not much off the straight line — it
stretches from west to east, near and along the
shore, under the names of Perth-road, Netliergate,
High-street, Seagate, and the Crofts, nearly If mile.
In another great line, first north-west, next north,
and again north-west, it stretches from the shore,
through Castle-street, Murraygate, Wellgate, and
Bonnet-hill, upwards of f of a mile; and even there
straggles onward through the incipient appearances
of farther extension. A third line of street, — com-
mencing on the east at the same point as Perth-
road, but diverging from it till it is nearly J of a
mile distant, and called over this space Hawkhill;
then, under the name of Overgate, converging to-
ward it, till both merge into the High-street; then
at the latter street diverging northward through that
part of the second line which consists of Murray-
gate, and at the end of that street debouching
away eastward, under the name of the Cowgate,
nearly parallel to Seagate, — extends about 1J mile.
But while thus covering an extensive area, Dim-
dee possesses little regularity of plan. Excepting
the numerous new but in general short streets,
on the north, and most of the brief communications
between the two great lines along the low ground,
not even the trivial grace of straightness of street-
line is displayed. Most of the old streets, too, are
of irregular and varying width; and many of the
alleys are inconveniently and orientally narrow.
Yet the town makes up by a dash of the picturesque,
by its displays of opulence, and by the romance of
its crowded quays, as also in a degree by the mag-
nitude and the whir of its numerous factories, for
what it wants in the neat forms and elegant attrac-
tions of simple beauty. Its exterior, also, its gen-
eral grouping, and its richness of situation in the
core of a brilliant landscape, eminently render it, as
seen from the Fife side of the Tay, or from Broughty
Ferry-road, the justly lauded "Bonny Dundee" of
song, and Ail-lec, " the pleasant " or " the beau-
tiful " of Highland predilection. In a military
point of view it is accessible on all sides, and is
entirely commanded by the neighbouring heights,
so as to be quite indefensible; but as regards com-
merce, comfort, and beauty, it is enriched by its
singularly advantageous position on the Tay, and
sheltered and adorned by the eminences among
which it is cradled.
The most bustling and important part of the
town is the High-street, called also the market-
place, and the Cross. This is an oblong square ot
DUNDEE.
447
DUNDEE.
rectangle, 360 I'eet long, and 100 feet broad, wear-
ing much of that opulent and commercially great
and dignified appearance which characterises the
Trongate or Argyle-street of Glasgow, or oven the
less crowded parts of the great thoroughfares of
London. The houses are of freestone, four stories
high, rich and gaudy in their shops, and generally
regular and modern in their structure, though in
two or three instances, surmounted on the front by
the gable-end construction. On the south side,
projecting several feet from the line of the other
buildings, stands the Town hall. This is a fine
Roman structure, erected in 1734, with materials
which soon became unsightly, but was restored in
1853-4 to its original appearance. Beneath, it
lies open in piazzas; and above, it towers up in a
spire of about 140 feet in height. At each end of
the High-street, is a building which closes up the
wide and stirring area of the rectangle, but allows,
on both sides, sufficient space for thoroughfares into
the adjoining streets. That which occupies the
east end, is the Trades' Hall, dividing the com-
mencement of the Seagate from that of Murray-
gate. It is a neat though plain building, adorned
in the front with Ionic pillars, and surmounted by
an elegant cupola. The Seagate, one of the streets
of the ancient town, and formerly the abode of the
Guthries, the Afflecks, the Brig-tons, the Burnsides,
and other principal families, is a long, sinuous, and
very narrow street, extending away to Wallace
bum. The line of street is then continued to the
eastward, through the Ci'ofts and Carolina port, till
it merges in the road to Broughty-Feny. South of
the Seagate are the gas works, whale-fishing yards,
and East foundry. Murraygate, opening on the
northern end of the Trades' hall, is narrow and in-
commodious at its entrance, but soon expands in
width, and assumes a pleasing appearance of well-
built and somewhat regular lines of houses. In this
'street are banking-houses and several other public
offices. At Wellgate-port, the eastern termination
of Murraygate, the street forks into two, — the
Cowgate, which runs eastward, and the Wellgate,
which runs northward, forming a straight line with
Bonnet hill. The Cowgate, more remarkable for
business than any of the other thoroughfares, and
virtually the exchange of the town, has some hand-
some buildings, most of which are devoted to com-
merce, and is adorned at its east end with a vener-
able archway, originally one of the town gates,
where the reformer Wishart preached during the
prevalence of the plague in 1544, the archway or
gate serving to keep the infected and the uninfected
in separate crowds. From the Cowgate, Queen's-
street, St. Roque's-lane, and the Sugar-house wynd,
lead off to the Seagate. King-street subdivides" and
contracts the Cowgate, and breaks of at an acute
angle from its north side, running north-eastward
to Wallace burn, and there merges in the great
north road, by way of Arbroath and Montrose, to
Aberdeen. The Wellgate rises gently from the
Murraygate, and, on market-days, is a scene of
bustling and tumultuous business. At the head of
the Wellgate is the Lady well, whence the street
has its name, and which draws ample supplies of
excellent water from various springs on the high
grounds. From this point Buekle-maker wynd —
formerly the seat of a craft whence it derived its
name, but which is now extinct — goes off at right
angles and extends to Wallace burn. An extensive
rising ground lying northward of this wynd, and
called Forebank, is adorned with numerous elegant
villas and gardens. On a line with Wellgate, and
mounting up the ascent, is the Hilltown or Bonnet-
Hill — where a number of bonnet-makers were for-
merly located — which stretches away over the accli-
vity on to the lands of Chpington ; hut it has a
motley and grotesque appearance, and, though tin:
seat of verv extensive manufactures, consists gener-
ally of ill-built houses, confusedly interspersed with
cloth factories Maxwclllown, a suburb of recent
origin, occupies grounds between Hilltown and Hill-
bank villa, northward of Forebank; and Hillbank. a
new suburb, is rapidly forming on the villa grounds.
Opposite to Buckle-maker wynd, Dudhope wynd,
which forms the northern boundary of the Chapel-
shade, breaks off to the west, and runs along nearly
half-a-mile, terminating at the barracks.
From the High-street, to which we now return,
Castle-street goes off at right angles with the com-
mencement of the Seagate, and lends down to the
harbour. This street contains several fine build-
ings; and is the site of the theatre and the Royal
hard;. At the south east comer of Castle-street
stands the exchange coffee-room, — a commodious
and beautiful building, having a spacious opening
to the west, and erected by a body of subscribers
at an expense of £9,000. Its western front, on the
basement story, has Doric pillars, boldly relieved
by deep recesses of the doors and windows; and, on
the second story, is in a style of the Ionic order, more
ornate than what usually occurs. The reading-room
is 73 feet by 38, and is 30 feet in height. From the
south-west comer of the High-street, and parallel
with Castle-street, Criehton-street leads down to the
green-market, and on to Earl Grey's dock. Oppo-
site to the town-hall, and in a direction the reverse
of Castle and Crichton streets, is a splendid modem
street, called Reform-street, combining uniformity
with elegance, and rivalling, in the beauty of its
buildings, some of the admired parts of the Scottish
metropolis. The splendour of this street is greatly
enhanced by the magnificent appearance of the
High School which closes it up on the north,
and looks down along its area. This edifice is in
the Doric syle of architecture; and its portico or
central part is copied from the exquisite model of the
Parthenon of Athens. A double-columned gateway,
closed in by an iron-palisadoed wall which encircles
a pleasant shrubbery, leads to the principal entrance.
The building contains a room 42 feet by 40 for
classes studying the higher departments of science,
another of the same dimensions fitted up as a mu-
seum, one 37 feet by 30 for the junior classes, as
well as a large provision of other apartments; and
it was erected at an expense of about £10,000.
At the west end of the High-street, closing up
the area, is an ancient building long called the
Luckenbooths, on the corner of which is still a tur-
ret indicative of its former character. This vener-
able pile was the adopted residence of General Monk,
when be entered Dundee and consigned it to the
pillage of his soldiery; and it was the birthplace of
the celebrated Anne Scott, daughter of the Earl of
Buccleuch, and afterwards Duchess of Monmouth,
whose parents had sought a refuge in the town from
the effects of Cromwell's usurpation. It was also,
in 1715, the adopted home of the Pretender, during
the period of his stay in Dundee. The lower part
of the building was originally divided into arched
sections; but is now modernized. An edifice con-
nected with the Luckenbooths, and originally called
the tolbooth, is also very ancient, and had before it,
in old times, the Tron in which the public weights
were kept. In its vicinity is an alley once called
Old Tolbooth lane. Within St. Margaret's close,
at the High-street, were formerly a royal residence
and a mint. The palace, after ceasing to be a home
or a possession of royalty, was inhabited by the
Earls of Angus, by the Scrymseours of Dudhope,
DUNDEE.
448
DUNDEE.
and afterwards by John Grahame of Claverhouse,
Viscount Dundee. Robert III. was the first sover-
eign who struck coin in the mint. An alley lead-
ing from the High-street is still called Mint-close.
Passing out of the High- street, on the north side
of the Luckenbooths, the Overgate runs away west-
ward for upwards of J of a mile to the West-port,
and there forks into lines of street called Hawkhill
and Scouringburn, which pass on to the limits of the
town. The Overgate was originally called Argy le-
gate, from the connexion it had with the family of
Argyle ; and opposite the Windmill brae, is still a
house to which tradition points as that family's
quondam property. As the street proceeds, it sends
off several branch-streets to the north which run up
toward the base of the Law. This district, though
containing many good houses, exhibits utter reck-
lessness of architectural taste or uniformity, and is
the site of large portion of the great manufactories.
But South Tay-street, the principal communication
with the lower part of the town, is elegant and pos-
sesses a beautiful square. The streets, or rather
alleys, parallel witli it, breaking off on the south
side of Overgate and Hawkhill — Tally-street, Thor-
ter-row, Sehool-wynd, Long-wynd, and Small's-
wyiul — are, excepting School-wynd, narrow and
gloomy communications. From the Overgate
and Scouringburn to Ward-road, Lindsay-street,
leading to the new jail and bridewell, Barrack-street
and other openings break off northward, and present
good lines of new and pleasingly constructed build-
ings. The barracks occupy a commanding eminence
at the foot of the Law, and enclose the remains of
Dudhope castle, formerly the residence of the con-
stables of Dundee ; and they are remarkable for
healthful situation ; but for several years prior to
1866, they were altogether untenanted.
Returning again to the High-street, we find a
wide opening from its western end, on the south side
of the Luckenbooths. Most of this opening is closed
up, at the distance of a few yards, by the Union hall,
formerly an Episcopalian chapel, which has its lower
story fitted up and occupied as shops. On the south
side of tins building, leading out from High-street,
and forming a main line of communication with
Perth and Glasgow, opens the Nethergate, which
stretches away, through the direct continuation of
Perth-road, into the Carse of Gowrie, and, through
a forking continuation seaward, into the delightful
promenade of Magdalene-greem The Nethergate is
a well-built and somewhat spacious street of nearly
J a mile in length; and leaves behind the bustle and
confusion of the business parts of the town, and puts
on appearances of architectural neatness and modern
improvement. As it advances westward, it becomes
the site of the elegant or the flaunting homes of the
elite of the town; and, along with its branch-streets,
has quite as aristocratic an air as comports with its
propinquity to manufacture and commercial stir.
The houses, instead of forming continuous lines,
now stand apart, environed with lawn and flower-
plots; and eventually they announce their inmates
to be parties who know quite as well to luxuriate
in the results which affluence produces, as to ply the
arts by which it is obtained. To render the Nether-
gate somewhat straight, and achieve a considerable
degree of order and neatness in the collocation of
modem buildings, many edifices of antique character
and historical interest, shared a common demolition
with the gaunt and ungainly houses which at one
time jostled one another along the line. Among
others, a short way after the debouch of the street
from the cross, stood Whitehall, the residence, at
various periods, of the kings of Scotland, the scene
of frequent conventions of estates and burghs, and
the meeting-place of several general assemblies of
the Church of Scotland. A memorial of the building
still exists in the name of an alley, called Whitehall
close, which leads down to the shore ; in a sculpture
of the royal arms of Charles I. over the entrance to
this allev, with the inscription in decayed letters,
"God save the King, C. R. 1660;" and in the in-
sertion of some sculptured stones which belonged to
it in several of the buildings which stand on or near
its site. All that remains of it is a portion of the
west wall. On the lintel of a door, leading to three
low vaults, which communicate with one another,
and are hemmed in by an outer wall of great strength,
is inscribed, "Tendit acerrima virtus." Opposite
this lintel is a niche with several ornamental figures;
two of which, though much decayed, appear to have
been statues. Whitehall was the home of Charles
immediately before his ill-fated expedition tc Wor-
cester; and it seems to have been strictly a court-
residence, surrounded by numerous houses belonging
to the nobility. A little to the westward of White-
hall close stood one of the most ancient and spacious
mansions in Dundee, the town-residence of the
powerful Earls of Crawford, said to have been built
in the 13th century, and along with its grounds,
stretching downward from the Nethergate quite to
the river. About eighty years ago, vestiges of the
mansion were still in existence, having the word
" Lindsay " embossed in a sort of battlement. The
lords of Crawford resided herein feudal splendour;
and, in the beginning of the 15th century, Archibald,
sixth Earl of Angus and Lord of Liddesdale, com-
monly called Bell-the-Cat, visited the mansion, and
was married within its walls, amid a pomp and mag-
nificence of ceremony which were remarkable even
in those days of excessive pageantry, to Maud Lind-
say, daughter of the contemporaneous Earl of Craw-
ford.
Passing off from the Nethergate near the site of
the mansion of the C'rawfords, Union-street leads
down to the shore. This is a spacious and beautiful
thoroughfare, traced along the sites of many un-
seemly and frail houses which formerly disfigured
and menaced the locality. From its west side
branches Yeaman shore, having in its southern line
of buildings a plain and indifferently situated public
edifice, the Trinity house. Merging from Union-
street on the south we find ourselves near the western
point of the quays and docks of Dundee. Hence to
the Trades' lane, Dock-street, consisting of new and
elegant erections, runs parallel to the Tay, and
forms a fine background to its series of docks, with
their marine forest of masts. Going off from an
open area at the foot of Castle-street is Exchange-
street, running nearly parallel with Dock-street;
and crossing the further end of this at right angles,
and coming down to Dock-street, from the Seagate
near the High-street, is Commercial-street. Both
of these are new thoroughfares, and in keeping with
the neatness and taste of the modern improvement-
spirit of the town. In Green-market square, foot
of Crichton-street, is the old custom-house, one of
the most antiquated buildings in Dundee. The
lower part was formerly arched, and seems also to
have been surrounded with a kind of piazza, now
converted into shops and cellars. At the top it
originally terminated in fine circular turrets; in each
story it has circular turreted rooms, as well as other
apartments bearing vestiges of ancient comfort and
magnificence; and altogether it appears to have
been one of those baronial residences which, in feudal
times, abounded in the town, and which either have
bequeathed their names to streets or left some scanty
physical memorials to stimulate the curiosity of the
antiquarian. The old Fish-market beside this edifice
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was superseded by a clean area, well supplied with
water, and placed under suitable regulations, be-
tween the end of Castle-street and the Green-mar-
ket; and that Kish-market also was proposed, about
the end of 1865, to be suporseded by a new one on
some other site. A conspicuous object in this vicin-
ity is the Victoria or Royal Arch. This was erected
to commemorate the landing of Queen Victoria and
Prince Albeit at Dundee in September, 1844. It
comprises a great central arch and two side arches,
surmounted by two central turrets and two side
turrets. It is in the Anglo-Saxon style, with pro-
fuse ornamentation, and displays considerable ori-
ginality. The architect was Mr. J. T. Rocbead of
Glasgow. The breadth of the structure is 82 feet ;
the height of the central turrets from the ground 84
feet; the height of the side turrets from the ground
54 feet; the height of the central arch 32 feet; the
width of that arch 21 feet. Two Russian guns,
taken at the Crimean war, stand in the open space
before the Arch.
At the extreme west of the harbour, and nearly
opposite Union-street, is Craig-pier, constructed with
low-water extensions, for the special use of large
steam vessels, plying at brief intervals on the Ferry
to a similar pier on the Fife coast, two miles across.
From this pier on the west, to Carolina-port on the
east, stretch the proud and opulent series of docks
which are at once the boast of Dundee, the chief
means of its wealth, and the best evidence of its
enterprise and taste. Previous to 1815 — when com-
missioners were appointed by act of parliament to
extend and improve the harbour — the only accom-
modations for shipping were a small pier and a few
ill-constructed erections which could not be reached
by vessels of any considerable draught of water.
Put between 1815 and 1830, a wet-dock, with a
graving-dock attached to it, was constructed, — the
tide-harbour deepened and extended, — sea-walls and
additional quays built, — and various other improve-
ments made, at the munificent cost of £162,800.
The wet-dock, then constructed, and called William
the Fourth's, covers an area of nearly 8 acres, and
has its adjoining graving-dock in corresponding
proportion. After 1830 a large part of the tide-
harbour was converted into another wet-dock, called
Earl Grey's dock; and still further improvements
have been effected by the opening, in July, 1865, of
two spacious wet-docks to the eastward ; the near-
est, Victoria dock, of 14 acres in extent ; the other,
Camperdown dock, of upwards of 7 acres. By these
additions the accommodation for shipping has been
nearly doubled. A remarkable feature is the gate
or caisson of Camperdown dock, which is on a new
and peculiar principle, and works with great ease
and facility. All these improvements are consider-
ably within the range of high-water mark, leaving
an important space of ground skirting along the
town to be occupied as the site of buildings, and the
area of a continuation of Dock-street ; and parts
of the improvements are also within low-water
mark, leaving, even there, between the new wet-
clocks and the sea, a space to be occupied by ware-
houses and building-yards. The great outer sea-
wall is extended considerably to the eastward, and
does great credit to Mr. Ower, the engineer, for the
skill and science he has displayed. A stupendous
crane has been erected on the quay of Earl Grey's
dock, by which eight men easily lift a weight of 30
tons. The cost of the harbour improvements up to
April, 1845, was about £550,000 ; and, with all in-
cidental expenses, it amounted up to May, 1865, to
no less than £1,259,549 17s. 5d. And now the har-
bour of Dundee is one of the finest, safest, and most
convenient in Britain. One valuable advantage is
I.
that, like the harbours of Liverpool and Greenock,
it is situated almost all within the line of low-water
mark, an<l offers commodious ingress in very reduced
states of the tide. The estuary of the Tay, where it
washes the town, is about 2 miles broad, and is pent
up by banks which, in general, have a sufficiently
rapid declination to leave little of the beach bare at
low water. Shoals or sandbanks, however, are in
it; and, during some years prior to 1866, they in-
creased, both in number and in extent, — insomuch
that their effect on the navigation came to be a
serious question, and engaged the attention of emi-
nent engineers ; though till then, by the appliances
of lighthouses, beacons, and accurate charts, they
had been rendered comparatively harmless.
Several public buildings and places of interest re-
quire more detailed mention than could be made of
them in a general sketch of the town ; and others —
including all the ecclesiastical edifices — remain yet
to be noticed. The Trades' -hall, already mentioned,
was built in 1776, on the site of the old flesh-market ;
was originally fitted up with separate apartments
for the nine incorporated trades; and contains a
hall, 50 feet long, 30 broad, and 25 high, now occu-
pied as a branch office of the Clydesdale bank. The
town-hall, also already mentioned, contains the
council chamber, and the guild-hall ; and has, in its
tower, an illuminated clock and a pleasant peal of
bells. The royal exchange, at the north end of
Panmure-street, is an elegant structure in the
Flemish style of the loth century, common in
Brussels and in the other large towns of the Low
Countries; was built in 1853-6, after a design by
David Bryce of Edinburgh, at a cost of upwards of
£12,000; shows a side frontage of two stories, sur-
mounted by a range of dormer windows, with tra-
ceried beads and crocketted gables ; contains a loft}'
ornate hall, 77 feet long and 34 feet wide; and has
a tower which was intended to be 120 feet high,
with a stone crown, but could not be finished in
consequence of the ground beneath it beginning to
give way, and was terminated at only one stage
above the main building, in a carved parapet and
flat roof. The public hall and corn exchange, now
generally known as the Kinnaird ball, in Bank-
street, is an edifice in the Anglo-Italian style, erect-
ed in 1856-8, after a design by Charles Edward of
Dundee ; and contains a hall 130 feet long, 60 wide,
and 40 high, capable of accommodating from 2,500
to 3,000 persons. The Watt institution building, in
Constitution-road, is a neat Grecian structure of 1838;
passed, after a time, from its original use; and was
transformed first into the Sheriff court-house, and
afterwards into a church. The institution itself,
after being dormant for several years, has somewhat
revived; and the library, museum, &c., have been
transferred to more centrical but less convenient
premises in Lindsay-street. The county prison and
police buildings were erected in 1836 ; and greatly
extended in 1844. Tbey stand, in a good situation,
at the south-west corner of the town's gardens.
They were constructed from designs by Mr. Angus,
at a cost of £26,000. They comprise jail, bridewell,
and police-office ; and are well-adapted to their pur-
poses, and highly creditable to the burgh. The
court-bouse, for sheriff and circuit-courts, stands on
the central front of the jail ; is a handsome and
spacious edifice, with portico surmounted by the
royal arms in bold relief; and was opened, as a cir-
cuit-court for Forfarshire, in April 1865.
The new infirmary was founded in July 1852,
and finished in October 1854. It stands in a con-
spicuous situation, amid open ground, on the heights
of Dudhope, with a clear exposure to the south. It
is a magnificent building in the Tudor style of archi-
2 F
DUNDEE.
450
DUNDEE.
tecture, unsurpassed by any edifice of its class in the
kingdom, and a great ornament to Dundee. It was
constructed after designs by Messrs. Coe and Good-
win of London, and cost upwards of £12,000. It has
a frontage of 349 feet in length, with two wings
running back each 100 feet, and a projection back-
ward from the centre. Its internal arrangement is
on the corridor system, very airy and eminently con-
venient. Its wards contain beds for 280 patients; and
its corridors will serve, in all ordinary times, as pro-
menades for convalescents, and may be fitted up,
in time of emergency, with additional beds. The
old infirmary stood in King-street, on an elevated
site sloping to the south, well detached from other
buildings, and was erected in 1798. It is now oc-
cupied as a female lodging-house. — The lunatic
asylum was opened for patients in 1820, and is a
well-arrangedodifice, and well-conducted institution;
situated about A a mile north of the town, upon an
inclined plane considerably higher than the vale of
the burgh, commanding a fine view of the Tay and
the country along its shores, and encircled with
spacious airing-grounds and delightful garden-walks.
— At the part of the Nethergate, opposite the foot
of Taj' -street, stood till lately the dilapidated remains
of the hospital. The date of its foundation is un-
known. On the 15th of April, 1567, Queen Mary
granted to the magistrates, council, and community
of Dundee, for behoof of the ministry and hospital,
all lands, &c, which had belonged to any chaplain-
ries, altars, or prebendaries, within the liberty of the
town, with the lands which belonged to the Domini-
can and Franciscan friars, and the Grey sisters,
which were incorporated into one estate, to be called
the foundation of the ministry and hospital of Dun-
dee. This charter was confirmed by James VI., in
1601. The property of the hospital, though under
charge, nominally, of an hospital master, is, in fact,
under the administration of the magistrates of Dun-
dee. The funds are now applied to the aid of the
infirm poor, and to supplement the stipends of the
Established ministers. — The Howff or old burying-
ground, in Barrack-street, was formed about the year
1564, in what had been the garden of the Grey
Friars; and possesses much interest, both in general
arrangement and in monuments; but, by order of
the Queen in council, was closed as a place of sepul-
ture in 1858. — The new burying-ground on the west
side of Constitution-road, was opened in 1836; and
is tastefully laid out in mounds and walks, with a
Jussieuan arrangement of plants. The western ceme-
tery, on the north side of the Perth road, was opened
in 1845 ; comprises six acres, beautifully laid out in
compartments and promenades; has a very grand
gateway; and contains a monument to the poet
Thorn, who died in Dundee in 1848. The Eastern
necropolis, on the north side of the Arbroath road,
about 2 miles from High-street, was opened in 1862;
is laid out in serpentine walks, with great taste and
beauty ; and has an admirably designed entrance
gateway.
The new custom-house, at the east end of Dock-
street, was erected in 1843. It is a large fine struc-
ture, with a portico, in the Roman-Ionic style, and
cost £8,000. It contains also the excise-office, and
accommodation for the meetings and offices of the
harbour trustees. — The new post-office at the top of
Reform-street is plain but substantial, and cost above
£3,000. — The new terminus of the Scottish North-
eastern railway, near the custom-house, is a hand-
some building, with semicircular front, after designs
by Charles Ower. The Caledonian new railway sta-
tion, in South Union-street, although handsome and
spacious, was found, so early as 1865, to he already
insufficient for the vastly increased traffic. — The
theatre, in Castle-street, was once elegant, became
dingy and desolate, but has been considerably im-
proved. The Thistle-hall, in Union-street, is a hand-
some Freemasons' lodge often used for public meet-
ings. The industrial schools, in Ward-street, are
a handsome structure in the early English style,
erected in 1856. The Morgan hospital for the main-
tenance and education of 100 boys, springs from a
bequest which, after being long litigated, was set
free in 1858. The building for it was finished in
1866; occupies a commanding site at the corner of
the old Forfar road, near the north entrance to the
Baxter Park ; and cost about £1 8,000. The total en-
dowment of the hospital amounts to £73,000.
Two grand new objects, the Baxter Park and the
Albert Institute, require particular notice. The
Baxter Park lies to the north-east of the town, about
a mile from High-street; comprises upwards of 30
acres ; is beautifully laid out in flower-gardens,
promenades, rockeries, &c. ; and has, in the centre,
a stately terrace adorned with a handsome and sub-
stantial pavilion in the Eoman style of architecture.
It was all planned by the late eminent landscape-
gardener, Sir Joseph Paxton ; it was gifted, as a
place of recreation, to the inhabitants of Dundee, for
all time coming, by Sir David Baxter and his sisters
Misses Eleanor and Mary Anne Baxter; and it cost
nearly £40,000, besides £10,000 funded by the
donors for its perpetual maintenance. To express
their appreciation of this magnificent gift, the pub-
lic subscribed £1,000 for a fine marble statue of Sir
David by Mr. Steell ; and this stands in the centre
of the pavilion. The park was opened, in the pre-
sence of Earl Russell, the Earl of Dalhousie, and
many other distinguished visitors, on 9th September,
1863, which was observed as a general holiday; the
number of persons present at the opening was esti-
mated at 60,000; and the procession at it was the
most imposing that had ever been witnessed in Dun-
dee. The park is open daily without restriction ;
and, besides being a favourite place of resort for the
inhabitants, it attracts large numbers of strangers.
— The Albert Institute is situated in the meadows
near the top of Keform-street, and in the immediate
neighbourhood of the Post-office, the High School,
and the Royal Exchange. It was founded as a me-
morial to the late Prince Consort; and was designed
to contain a library, a picture gallery, a museum,
and a reading-room. It was in the course of erec-
tion at the beginning of 1866, — in the Gothic style,
after designs by Mr. Gilbert Scott ; and it promised
to be a most imposing structure. The ground was
purchased from the Town Council for £8,000 ; the
erection itself was computed to cost about £15,000;
and the capital was about £25,000, raised partly by
subscription and partly by shares.
Themostprominentarchitectural object in Dundee
is the cathedral-like group of edifices which suffered
so great a devastation by fire in January 1841.
This has for ages been popularly called the churches
and the tower ; and it is pre-eminently conspicuous
at once as most visibly connecting the town with
antiquity, as bulking most largely among its public
edifices, and as constituting the most distinctive
feature in its burghal landscape. Whether seen in
full front or through a vista within any part of the
town, the tower looms largely in the view, looking
the impersonation of Time casting its gloom upon
the evanescent scenes around. Or seen from any
point or distance in the environs or in the circum-
jacent country, whether from the east or from the
west or from the south, the tower lifts its gaunt
length high above the undulating surface of a sea of
roofs, and suggests thoughts of many generations
who have fluttered away their ephemeral life, and
DUNDEE.
451
DUNDEE.
passed to their long liome, beneath its shadow. The
churches are situated west of the Luekonbooths,
between the Overgate and the Nethergate. A
chapel, it is supposed, originally occupied that part
of their site on which now stands the East church,
and was founded by Prince David, Earl of Hunting-
don. Around this as a nucleus, other portions of
the structure were raised to complete the form of a
cathedral ; and the whole must, for a considerable
period, have been a church in the fields, the town
having its boundary at the west end of the High-
street. The edifice came to be irregularly cruci-
form, and comprised the four sections, called the
West or Steeple church, the South or New church,
(he North or Cross church, and the East or Old
church. The choir was 95 feet long, 54 high, and
'29 broad; and had two aisles, each 14A feet broad.
The cross part had no aisles; and was 174 feet long,
and 44 broad. The roofs of the four sections were
originally of one height, and presented an uniform
appearance of architectural beauty. But the West
or Steeple church having been destroyed by the
English before the national union, a new one was
erected in 1789, of such niggard and inharmonious
proportions as utterly to mar the symmetry of the
interesting pile. In fact, so many additions and
vast alterations were made, in the course of ages,
that, with the exception of the tower, probably no
part whatever of the original structure remained.
The tower stands at the extreme west of the
churches, and is most advantageously seen, with its
elegant gable windows, from the Nethergate. Its
height is 156 feet. The top is accessible to visitors,
•and commands a magnificent bird's-eye view of the
town and harbour, together with a splendid panor-
amic prospect of the environs. The East church,
in its restored state, was opened in 1844, and the
South church in 1847. They were reconstructed
after designs by Messrs. Burn and Bryee of Edin-
burgh, at the cost of £11,135. The entire pile re-
tains the crucid form of the original structures ; and
the style of the new churches is a laudable variety
of the Gothic.
All the other ancient ecclesiastical edifices of
Dundee — which were numerous, well-endowed, and
quite in keeping with the spirit of ostentatious dis-
play and prodigal expenditure which characterized
the Roman Catholic ages — have disappeared. The
oldest, St. Paul's, was situated between Murraygate
and Seagate. St. Clements occupied the site of the
present Town-hall. A mile-and-a-half west of the
town, a burying-ground, still in use, marks the site
of the church of Logie, — a inensal or table-furnish-
ing church of the Bishop of Brechin. On a rocky
rising ground, north of the High-street, stood the
chapel of St. Salvator, probably an appendage of the
royal palace situated in the adjoining close of St.
Margaret, or Maut close. Outside of the Cowgate-
port, between the Den-bridge and the east end of
the Seagate, stood the chapel of St. Rogue; com-
memorated in the name of a lane, which runs from
King-street to the Seagate, and is called St. Roque's-
lane. On a rock, a little eastward from Carolina-
point, stood the chapel of Kilcraig, meaning, in the
language of the Culdees, the church upon the rock,
but afterwards called by the Roman Catholics the
church of the Holy Rood. This chapel is commem-
orated in the name of Rood-yard, — a burial ground
still used in the locality. At the foot of Hilltowu,
stood the chapel of Our Lady, commemorated in
the name of the adjoining Lady Well. On a rock at
the western part of the harbour, originally called
Nicholas rock, and afterwards Chapel-craig, stood
the chapel of St. Nicholas. On the east side of
Couttie's-wynd, still stands a vestige of the base-
ment part of the wall of the chapel of St. Mary. A
large cluster of houses called Fleasance, near the
western approach to the barracks, probably indicates
the site of a forgotten chapel dedicated to Our Lady
of Flacentia. There appear to have been four or five
other chapels. There were also three friaries and
two nunneries; and one of the latter, that of St.
Clare, still remains on the north side of the Over-
gate, a quaint and venerable pile, long since de-
prived of all its conventual features.
In modern ecclesiastical edifices, both as to num-
ber and architectural beauty, Dundee will bear
comparison, if Edinburgh and Glasgow be excepted,
with any town in Scotland. St. Andrew's church,
built in 1772, occupies a slightly rising ground on
the north side of the Cowgate ; and is much and
justly admired for its uniform and simple elegance.
An exquisitely formed spire rises from its west end,
to the height of 139 feet, and contains a set of fine
music-bells. St. David's church, in North Tay-
street, though a plain edifice, is spacious and of
pleasing aspect. Eree St. Peter's, in Hawkhill, is
a substantial structure, built in 1836, and has at the
east end a neat spire, the bells of which are rung
by water-power. Eree St. Paul's, in the Nether-
gate, built in 1852, from designs by Mr. Charles
Wilson of Glasgow, at the cost of about £5,000, is
a handsome cruciform Gothic structure, with a spire
155 feet high. The other Eree churches, par-
ticularly Dudhope church built in 1840, St. David's
in 1843, St. John's and St. Andrew's in 1844, and
Chalmers' in 1853, are all more or less interesting.
One of the Bell-street United Presbyterian churches
is both a spacious and a splendid edifice. Several
other of the United Presbyterian churches, also, are
large and substantial fabrics. Ward chapel, belong-
ing to the Independents, built in 1833, is a splendid
erection in the Gothic style, finely situated, and of
an imposing appearance. Panmure-street Inde-
pendent chapel, erected in 1855, after designs by Mr.
Bryce of Edinburgh, is a picturesque building, with
a boldly traced circular window and two octagonal
towers. Castle-street, Prince's-street, and Lindsay-
street Independent chapels also are interesting.
St. Paul's Episcopal church, on the Castle-hill, at
the top of Seagate, is a magnificent edifice, after
designs by G. G. Scott of London, and was com-
pleted in 1855, at a cost of £13,000. Its style is
decorated Gothic. Its form is crucid, with nave,
aisles, transepts, aud chancel. A tower of two
stages rises at its west end, with surmounting spire
to the height of 220 feet ; and an octagonal apse
terminates the chancel. St. Mary Magdalene's
Episcopal church, in Blinshall-street, is a recently
erected edifice, of smaller size and about one-fifth of
the cost, but in similar style. St. Andrew's Roman
Catholic church, in Nethergate, built in 1836, is an
elegant Gothic structure, very similar to Ward
chapel. St. Mary's Roman Catholic church, at
Forebank, Hilltown, built in 1851, is a still grander
and very spacious structure in the Anglo-Saxon
style, capable of accommodating about 3,000 persons.
Among recent ecclesiastical erections may be men-
tioned also St. Salvador's Episcopal in Hilltown,
Wellgate mission Free church in Cbapelshade, the
United Presbyterian mission church at Butterburn,
and St. Clement's Established mission church in
Peep o' Day lane; and among churches designed or
contemplated, at the end of 1865, may be specified
the Catholic Apostolic in Constitution-road, the
Wesleyan Methodist in Ward-street, Free St. Paul's
mission church in the Overgate, and Free St. Enoch's
in the Nethergate.
Dundee is rich in charitable, literary, and public
institutions. Besides the royal infirmary, the royal
DUNDEE.
452
DUNDEE.
llmatio asylum, the ancient hospital fund, and the
Morgan hospital, it has a medical and surgical dis-
pensary and vaccine institution, — a royal orphan
institution, — an indigent sick society, — a clothing
society, — an eye institution, — 18 endowments for
various philanthropic purposes, — the charitable
funds of the guildry, the nine trades, the seamen
fraternity, and numerous voluntary associations, —
a seaman's friend society, — a society for the relief
of indigent females, — two new poors' houses, the
largest containing an infirmary for sick paupers,
erected by the generosity of a private citizen, — a
home for the reclamation of women, — a convalescent
institution, — a humane societj', — a society for the
prevention of cruelty to animals, — a national security
savings' bank, — a florists' and horticultural society,
— the Watt institution, — a working men's associa-
tion,— a right-of-way association, — a phrenological
society, — a Highland society, — a philharmonic
society, — a choral society, — several public libraries,
— and numerous religious and school societies, gen-
eral and congregational, for promoting almost every
variety of enlightening and Christianizing effort at
home and abroad. — The banks in Dundee are, — the
Dundee banking company, established in 1763, but
now amalgamated with the Koyal bank, — the East-
ern bank, established in 1838, now amalgamated
with the Clydesdale, located in Trade's hall, — and
branch offices of the Bank of Scotland, in Keform-
streer, — of the British Linen company, in Murray-
gate, — of the National hank of Scotland, in Reform-
street, — of the Koyal bank of Scotland, in Murray-
gate, — and of the Commercial bank of Scotland, the
Union bank of Scotland, and the City of Glasgow
bank, all in Reform-street.
The principal inns are the Royal Hotel in Nether-
gate, tlie British in Castle-street, the Albion in
Tally-street, the Crown in Green-market, the Dun-
dee Arms in Crichton-street, the Star in Seagate,
the Prince of Wales in Castle-street, Hood's in the
Vault, Lamb's Temperance in Reform-street, Ma-
ther's Temperance in Murraygate, and Birrell's
Temperance in Union-street. Dundee has six
newspapers, — the Dundee Daily Advertiser and the
Dundee Courier and Argus, published daily, — the
Dundee Advertiser on Tuesday and Friday, — the
Northern Warder, on Tuesday and Friday, — the
Dundee Weekly News on Saturday, and the Dun-
dee, Perth, Forfar, and Fife People's Journal, on
Saturday; and the last has a circulation of 100,000.
Dundee is remarkable for failure, perseverance,
and eventual success in attempts at manufacture.
Coarse woollens, under the name of 'plaiding,' dyed
in Holland, and exported throughout Europe, — bon-
nets, so extensively manufactured as to employ a
large proportion of the population, — coloured sew-
ing thread, made by seven different companies, main-
taining 6G twisting-mills, and employing 1,340 spin-
ners,— the tanning of leather, in at least 9 tanyards,
and to the annual value of £14,200, — glass, in two
factories, one for window and the other for bottle-
glass, — the spinning of cotton undertaken, and, for a
time, spiritedly conducted by 7 different companies,
— the refining of sugar, which was carried on in a
large building in the Seagate ; — these, and the mak-
ing of buckles and other minor manufactures, all
flourished for a season, and, in the end, went utterly
to ruin; bequeathing, in some instances, their names
to streets, and in others the vestiges of their factory
walls to the inspection of the commercial antiquary,
as memorials of the instability of trade. The mak-
ing of soap, the brewing of ale, and the manufacture
of cordage, are ancient; and the first, after being
long extinct, has again revived, the second has also
taken a recent start, while the third is in an increas-
ingly prosperous condition. Other successful manu-
factures are the making of 'Dundee kid gloves,'
known over the whole country; chiefly on account
of the superior manner in which they are sewed, and
made of a fine leather principally imported from
England, — the manufacture of confectionery, and
the famous ' Dundee marmalade,' — the making of
candles, — the working of iron, — the construction of
machinery, — the making of hand-cards, and cards
for cotton, wool, silk, and tow, — the building of
ships, together with the constructing of iron-steam-
ers.— and above all, the manufacture of flax yarns
and linen and jute fabrics.
"As an encouragement to the linen trade in its
infancy," says Dawson's Abridged Statistical His-
tory of Scotland in 1853, "a bounty was given by
Government on all linen exported, and a heavy duty
laid on its importation. In the face of this pro-
cedure, the trade of Dundee increased to a prodigious
extent, and is still on the increase. Its fabrics con-
sist of Osnaburgs, sheeting, duck, and coarse linens
generally; besides which linen yarn, cotton-bagging,
jute carpetings, canvas and cordage are goods ex-
tensively manufactured. In 1745, only 74 tons of
flax were imported, without any hemp ; the ship-
ments of linen, during the same year, being estimated
at about 1,000,000 yards; no mention being made
either of sail-cloth or bagging. In 1791, the im-
ports of flax amounted to 2,444 tons; and those of
hemp to 299 tons ; the exports that year being
7,842,000 yards linen, 280,000 yards sail-cloth, and
65,000 yards bagging. From this period the trade
began to extend itself gradually, though not rapidly."
Previously to the peace of 1815, no great quantity
of machinery was employed in spinning ; but about
this period, in consequence partly and principally
of the extensive improvement and introduction of
machinery, and partly of the greater regularity with
which supplies of the raw material weie obtained,
the trade began rapidly to increase; and the pro-
gress of it since has been astonishing. The quan-
tity of flax imported in 1814 was about 3,000 tons;
in 1830, 15,000 tons; in 1843, 32,000 tons; in 1857,
including tow and codilla, 37,267 tons, together
with 995 of hemp, and about 25,000 of jute; in
1863, of flax, codilla and hemp, 28,988 tons, and of
jute, 46,9S3, total 75,971 tons, value about 2J mil-
lions. In 1807 the number of flax-spinning mills
in Dundee was only 4; in 1822, 17 ; in 1851, (in-
cluding power-loom factories) 43, with a horse-
power of 2,000; while in May, 1864, the number
had risen to 61, containing 160 steam-engines with
an aggregate horse power of 4,621, moving 170,552
spindles and 6,709 power-looms, and giving em-
ployment to 36,020 hands. Since then the factories
in the town and neighbourhood have increased and
extended; and, at the end of 1865, the number of
persons engaged, adding those employed at hand-
looms, &c, was nearly 50,000, whose weekly wages
amounted to about £20,000. (See Warden's ad-
mirable work on ' the Linen Trade.')
"The quantity of yarn now spun here," says Mr.
Warden, " may be about 500,000 spindles weekly, or
25,000,000 per annum. Value, £3,750,000; and the
total annual value of the yarns and linens produced
in Dundee may be about £5.000,000, of which about
one-half is consumed in the United Kingdom, and the
other half exported. The exports are chiefly to the
Mediterranean, Australia, the American continent,
and the West Indies. In 1863 there were forward-
ed from Dundee, by sea, 5,583 pieces osnaburgs,
112,251 sheetings, 12,772 bagging, 121,356 canvas,
13,948 dowlas, 132,369 sacking, 37,355 sundries,
5.130 tons yarns; and by rail, 44,712 tons yarns and
linens." "We believe," says Mr. M'Culloch, "that
DUNDEE.
DUNDEE.
the shipments of linen from Dundee alone are quite
us great us those from all Ireland. While the manu-
facture has been slowly progressive in Ireland, it has
increased at Dundee even more rapidly than the
cotton manufacture has increased at Manchester."
Had space permitted, wo would have given some
description of the factories of Dundee, several of
which are no less remarkable for their splendid
architecture than for their colossal proportions. The
most extensive, as well as the most imposing, are
those of Messrs. Baxter, Brothers, & Co., (employ-
ing 4,000 hands,) in the Dens; A. and D. Edward
& Co., (employing 2.500 hands,) in Scouringburn ;
Gilroy, Brothers, & Co., (employing 2,500 hands,)
in Lochee-road; J. and A. D. Crimond, (employing
1,600 hands,) at Bowbridge; W. R. Morrison &Co.,
(employing 1,700 hands,) at Wallace fens; Thom-
son, Shepherd, & Briggs, (employing 2,000 hands,)
at the Magdalen Green; and Cox, Brothers, & Co.,
(employing 3,200 hands.) at Loehee. Among all
these fine works, perhaps the spinning-mill of
Messrs. Gilroy bears the palm botli for extent and
artistic beauty.
In 1731, the port of Dundee, even including its
creeks of Perth, Broughty-Ferry. Ferry-Port-ou-
Craig, and St. Andrews, had only 70 vessels of
aggregately 2.300 tons burden; and even in 1792,
it had no more than 116 vessels, of aggregately
8,550 tons. But in 1829, it had 225 vessels, of ag-
gregately 27,150 tons ; in 1840, it had 324 vessels,
of aggregately 51,135 tons; in 1860. it had 225 ves-
sels, of aggregately 42,381 tons ; and in 1865, it had
212 vessels, registering 45,955 tons. The average
yearly foreign trade of the port, in British shipping,
in the years 1840—1844, was 79,586 tons, — in the
years 1845 — 1849, 93,219 tons; in foreign shipping,
in the years 1840 — 1844, 19,642 tons,— in the years
1845 — 1849, 22,585 tons; and the average yearly
coasting trade, in the years 1840 — 1844, was 215.635
tons,— in the years 18-45— 1849, 274,224 tons. The
foreign trade, in 1852, inward in British vessels was
40,290 tons, — in foreign vessels, 22,959 tons; out-
ward in British vessels, 30,440 tons, — in foreign
vessels, 14,366 tons ; and the coasting trade, in 1852,
inward was 152,288 tons, — outward, 66,168 tons.
The foreign trade, in 1860, inward in British vessels
was 45,037 tons, — in foreign vessels, 38,878 tons ;
outward in British vessels, 34,281 tons, — in foreign
vessels, 25,599 tons; and the coasting trade, inward
in British vessels, was 180,122 tons, — in foreign
vessels, 143 tons; outward in British vessels, 72,741
tons, — in foreign vessels, 118 tons. In the year
ending 31st May, 1865, the foreign trade inward
was 414 vessels, 86,140 tons; and the coasting trade
inward 2,563 vessels, 235,853 tons. The customs,
in 1840-4, averaged yearly £46,294; in 1845-9,
£57,271 ; in 1855, were £57,615; in 1860, £59,747;
and in 1865, £76,860.
The principal articles of import are flax, hemp,
timber, iron, tar, lime, coals, refined sugar, ashes,
tallow, whale-blubber, and agricultural produce;
and the principal articles of export, besides the dif-
ferent kinds of linen and jute fabric, are linen yarn,
machinery and mill-work, iron and steel, confection-
ery, fish, coals, spirits, agricultural produce, and
miscellaneous manufactured goods. A trade to
Australia sprang suddenly up in the end of 1852,
occasioned the despatch of 32 cargoed vessels of
aggregately about 10,000 tons in the course of 1853,
and is now not exceeded by the Australian trade of
any port of the empire excepting Liverpool. There
are several companies connected with the shipping
of the port, — such as the Dundee, Perth, and Lon-
don Shipping Company; the Dundee and Newcastle
Steam Shipping Company; the Tay and Tyne
Shipping Company; the Arctic Shipping Company;
and the Tay Whale-fishing Company. The D.
P. and L. Shipping Company have regular steam-
ers, twice a-week to London, once a -week to
Hull, once a-fortiiight to Rotterdam and to Dunkirk,
and occasionally to Hamburg. The Arctic fishing-
vessels are large and powerful screw-steamers, 9 in
number, which make most successful voyages al-
most every season, while the old-fashioned sailing-
vessels belonging to other ports on the east coast too
often return clean. A steamer plies every hour during
the day from Dundee to Newport; and in the summer
months there are frequent trips by the river to New-
burgh and Perth. Dundee has constant communi-
cation by rail with all parts of the kingdom, is well
supplied with cabs for local conveyance, and has
omnibuses which run every half-hour to the west-
end of the town.
Dundee is only moderately accommodated with
flesh and fish markets. Its fuel consists of coal,
brought chiefly from England and Fife. The town,
in its streets, shops, and public buildings, is lighted
with gas. Altogether, Dundee is behind no town of
Scotland in the race of social and civic improvement.
"In population," — says the writer in the New Statis-
tical Account of Scotland, under date December, 1833,
— " In population, manufactures, and trade, in the
luxury and comfort which prevail, Dundee has per-
haps advanced faster than any similar town in the
kingdom. There are men alive in it who remember
when its population was only one-fifth of what it is
now, — when its harbour was a crooked wall, often
enclosing but a few fishing or smuggling craft, —
when its spinning-mills were unknown and un-
thought of, and its trade hardly worthy of the name.
And curious would it be could we anticipate the
future, and tell what will be its state when another
generation shall have passed away, and other hands
shall perhaps be called to prepare a record of its
progress or decline." But much more curious than
this is an account of Dundee written in 1678, by
Robert Edward, Minister of Murroes, and published
in a Description of the County of Angus. "At Dun-
dee," says that account, "the harbour, by great
labour and expense, has been rendered a very safe
and agreeable station for vessels ; and from this cir-
cumstance the town has become the chief emporium,
not only of Angus, but of Perthshire. The citizens
here (whose houses resemble palaces) are so eminent
in regard to their skill and industry, that they have
got more rivals than equals in the kingdom." He
then gives a minute and fanciful description of the
town, under the figure of a human body; and if he
were now to view the human body wbich he so
minutely describes, we doubt not that, owing to the
huge corpulency and great stature it has attained,
he would he much puzzled to trace out the features
of the child in the full-grown man.
By act of 3° and 4° William IV. the town council
of Dundee is fixed at 20, exclusive of the dean-of-
guild, who has a seat ex-officio. All the councillors
retire in a cycle of 3 years, 6 the first year, and 7
the second and the third; and the burgh being
divided into 3 districts, 2 are returned each year by
each district, and 3 the second and the third year by
the first district. The magistrates are a provost,
four bailies, and a dean-of-guild. They exercise juris-
diction over the whole of the ancient and extended
royalty. They try questions of debt, and all criminal
cases within burgh. There is a sheriff-substitute
in the town, whose jurisdiction is cumulative with
that of the magistrates within the royalty, and at
the same time extends over the landward part of
the parishes. The magistrates have the appoint-
ment of the town-clerks, procurator fiscal, chamber-
DUNDEE.
A54
DUNDEE.
lain, collector of cess, jailer, and other city-officers.
The town-clerk and procurator-fiscal are appointed
ad vitam aut culpam; the other officers hold their
appointments during the pleasure .of the council.
The guild-burgesses are possessed of funds, secured
upon heritable bonds, amounting at Michaelmas,
1852, to upwards of £3,000. The nine incorporated
trades, and the three united trades, possess funds
which are employed chiefly in giving assistance to de-
cayed members, and to widows. A report of the town-
council, in 1854, shows that the endowments or mor-
tifications belonging to the town for charitable and
educational purposes have a capital value of £59,291
13s. 6d.; and this is exclusive of two endowments, not
reported on, of the estimated value of from £1,000 to
£1,500. The police of Dundee was regulated for
some time by a statute passed in 1837, which divided
the town into eleven wards, and vested the manage-
ment jointly in the magistrates, and in a specially
elected body of general commissioners. But it is now
regulated by the general police act for Scotland
passed in 1850. The magistrates and town-council
are the police commissioners. The jurisdiction of the
police board extends over the whole parliamentary
burgh. The annual value of real property within
the burgh in 1861-2, was £230,335; in 1865-6,
£270,596.
The public property of the town consists of
lands, houses, churches, and salmon-fishings; and
in 1833, was estimated at £123,447 10s. 10(1. The
revenue of the burgh in 1692 was £279 4s. 6d. ; in
1788, £2,820 8s. 8d. ; in an average of several years
preceding 1833, £7,011 lis. 3d.; in 1839, £7,936
7s. 73.; in 1860, £3,268; in 1863-4, £3,512. Dun-
dee formerly united with Perth, Cupar-Fife, St.
Andrews, and Forfar, in sending one member to
parliament; but under the reform act it returns a
member for itself and suburbs. In 1859, the par-
liamentary constituency was 2,740; the municipal
2,693. In 1860, the parliamentary constituency was
2,676; the municipal 2,548. The constituencies are
now identical, and in 1865 amounted to 3,039. Pop-
ulation of the municipal burgh in 1841, 60,355; in
1861, 61,449. Houses, 3.548. Population of the
parliamentary burgh in 1861, 90,417. Houses,
5,185; rooms with windows, 44,054. Families
living in one room with no window, 0'25 per cent.;
in one room with window, 37'14 per cent. Males,
39,737; females, 50,680. Proportion in Eochee,
6,683; in public institutions, 1,111 ; in ships, 151.
Population in 1865, about 102,000.
Dundee was formerly fortified with walls, begun
by the English, and completed, in 1547, by the
French. The existence and even the position of its
gates are commemorated in the names of its streets,
Nethergate, Overgate, Seagate, and Murraygate, —
the first formerly called Fluckergate, and the second
Argylegate. In the 12th century David, prince of
.Scotland, Earl of Huntingdon, the hero of Sir Walter
Scott's graphic and exciting story of the Talisman,
landed at Dundee on his return from the crusades;
and, in fulfilment of some vows which he had made in
the spirit of the period, he built a gorgeous church,
and surmounted it with the magnificent tower which
still forms the most striking feature in a scenic pic-
ture of the burgh. Dundee was twice taken by
Edward I., pillaged of its records, robbed of its pro-
perty, defaced in its churches, and even burned to
the ground; and, though burned a third time during
the inroad made to Scotland, in 1385, by the Duke
of Lancaster, it speedily towered to an eminence of
prosperity greater than it had ever attained previous
to its disasters. At the period of the Eeformation
it was the first town in Scotland which publicly
renounced popery. General Monk encountered a
stubborn, prolonged, and sanguinary resistance
beneath its walls; and when, at length, he took the
town by assault, he repaid the bravery of its bur-
ghers and of numerous strangers who had fled to it for
refuge, by abandoning it to pillage. So great was
the spoil, that each soldier in Monk's army received
for his share nearly £60 sterling, — a sum, in the
comparative value of money at the period, truly
wonderful.
" Dundee," says Mrs. Stowe, " has always been a
stronghold of liberty and the reformed religion. It
is said that in the grammar school of this town
William Wallace was educated; and here an illus-
trious confraternity of noblemen and gentry was
formed, who joined to resist the tyranny of Eng-
land. Here Wishart preached at the beginning of
the Eeformation preparatory to his martyrdom.
Here flourished some rude historical writers, who
devoted their talents to the downfall of popery.
Singularly enough, they accomplished this in part
by dramatic representations, in which the vices and
absurdities of the Papal establishment were ridi-
culed before the people. Among others, one James
Wedderburn and his brother, vicar of Dundee, are
mentioned as having excelled in this kind of com-
position. The same authors composed books of
song, denominated ' Gude and Godly Ballads,'
wherein the frauds and deceits of popery were fully
pointed out. A third brother of the family, being a
musical genius, it is said, ' turned the tunes and
tenors of many profane songs into godly songs and
hymns, whereby he stirred up the affection of many,'
which tunes were called the Psalms of Dundee.
Here perhaps was the origin of ' Dundee's wild-
warbling ' measures. The conjoint force of tragedy,
comedy, ballads, and music, thus brought to bear
on the popular mind, was very great. Dundee was
long a sufferer during the various civil commotions
in Scotland. In the time of Charles I., it stood out
for the solemn league and covenant, for which crime
the Earl of Montrose was sent against it, who took
and bumed it. It is said that he called Dundee a
most seditious town, the securest haunt and recep-
tacle of rebels, and a place that had contributed as
much as any other to the rebellion. Yet afterwards,
when Montrose was led a captive through Dundee,
the historian observes, ' It is remarkable about the
town of Dundee, in which he lodged one night, that
though it had suffered more by his army than any
town else within the kingdom, yet were they
amongst all the rest, so far from exulting over him,
that the whole town testified a great deal of sorrow
for his woful condition ; and there was be likewise
furnished with clothes suitable to his birth and per-
son." The most notable modern events in Dundee
were the landingof Queen Victoria and Prince Albert,
in September, 1844, and the embarkation of the
Prince and Princess of Wales, in September, 1864.
Among many celebrated natives and citizens of
Dundee, may be mentioned, Alexander Scrymseour,
one of the heroic companions of Wallace, and the
first of Dundee's hereditary constables; — Sir John
Scrymseour, one of the former's descendants, who
became Viscount of Dudhope, and adhering to
Charles I., fell in the battle of Marston-muir; —
Hector Boethius, the Scottish historian, in 1470, the
Principal of King's college, Aberdeen, and one of
the revivers of elegant literature; — Eobert Pittilock,
now called Patullo, who, as first Captain of the
Scottish guard, in the service of France, acquired
distinguished military honours under Charles VII.;
— James Halliburton, one of the earliest and ablest
of the Scottish reformers, through whose influence
Dundee became the first town of Scotland in which
the reformed religion was openly professed;— George
DUNDEE.
455
DUNDEE.
Mackenzie, Lord-advocate of Scotland, author of the
' Institutes of the Scots Law,' and founder of the
Advocates' library of Edinburgh; — John Mar, the
constructor, in tho 17th century, of a curious chart
of the North sea and the frith of Tay, which cannot,
even at the present day, be excelled in correct illus-
tration;— George Yeamiui of Marie, the representa-
tive of the town in the last Scottish or Union parlia-
ment, and one of the ablest and most patriotic legis
lators of his country; — Mr. John Willison, the well-
known anil cherished author of ' The Afflicted
Man's Companion;' — Robert Fergusson the poet,
and Robert Stewart, a friend of his, and an eminently
literary man; — James Weir and James Ivory,
teachers in the Dundee seminary, and profound
mathematicians; — Admiral Duncan, the hero of
Camperdown, and of many other naval fights; — Dr.
Robert Small, the author of a luminous view of the
astronomical discoveries of Helper; — the poets,
Thomas Hood and Robert Nicoll ; — and the preachers,
Mr. M'Cheyne and Dr. Russell. To these might be
added Alexander YVedderburn, 1st Earl of Rosslyn;
and Charles Middleton, 1st Lord Barham. Dundee
has even claimed Sir William Wallace as a native.
Dundee has at two periods given noble titles. Sir
John Scrymseour, of the family who were long con-
stables of the town and standard-bearers to the King
of Scotland, was created Viscount Dundee, in 1641;
and his second successor, the third Viscount, was
created Earl of Dundee in 1661. On the latter's
death, without immediate heirs, the Scrymseours of
Birkhill, now Wedderfcum of Wedderburn, were de-
prived of their inheritance. In 1686 the estates —
after having been for a time in the possession of
Maitland of Hatton — were bestowed by James VII.
on Captain John Graham of Claverhouse. This
man, of infamous memory in the history of the per-
secution of Scotland's Worthies, was, in 1688, cre-
ated Viscount Dundee. On his death, a few months
afterwards, at the battle of Killiecrankie, the estates
were finally conferred by King William on the
family of Douglas.
DUNDEE AND ARBROATH RAILWAY, a
railway from Dundee to Arbroath. The formation
of it was commenced in August, 1836, and completed
in less than three years. The railway, besides
forming a communication between Dundee and Ar-
broath, is connected at Brougbty-Ferry with the
termination of the eastern or Dundee-ward fork of
the North British railway, and at Arbroath with
the east end of the Arbroath and Forfar railway,
and through that witli the Aberdeen railway. It
commences at Trades' -lane, Dundee, and takes an
easterly direction, running parallel with Dock-street
on the north, and the new wet docks on the south.
It then continues through an arm of the Tay for
about a mile, when it enters a very deep rock-cut-
ting on the Craigie estate. Proceeding still east-
ward, it crosses at two different points the road be-
tween Dundee and Broughty-Ferry. At 3£ miles,
it reaches Broughty-Ferry, where the depot is very
handsome and commodious, and where also were
erected the company's workshops for repairing their
engines. On leaving Broughty-Ferry, it proceeds
along Broughty- Ferry links, and through barren
sands past Monifieth and Barry, to Carnoustie,
which is 10J miles from Dundee; and thence it
traverses a tract 6i miles in extent, and of little in-
terest, past East Haven, to Arbroath. A very sharp
curve of J mile radius occurs toward its termination.
Were this curve in the centre of the line, or where
the trains go at high velocities, it might be con-
sidered dangerous; but as it is placed close upon the
Arbroath depot, it is rather an advantage in bringing
up the speed of the trains than otherwise. At Ar-
broath the station is most commodious, and the ac-
commodation for passengers excellent. A branch
goes from the station to the harbour. Close upon
the depot stands the Bell-rock signal-tower, whence
a communication is kept up with the men stationed
upon the Bell-rock light-house.
This railway, from the favourable gradients,
easily obtained, (the ruling one being 1 in 1,200,)
and the little value of the land through which it goes,
was constructed at the comparatively small cost of
£6,460 per mile; and this too with a double line.
The rails are 56 lbs. to the yard, and are laid prin- .
cipally upon stone-blocks. The bearings are three
yards apart; and the gauge is 5 feet 6 inches. The
railway has a total length of 16f miles; and it
passes through the parishes of Monifieth, Barry,
Panbride, St. Vigeans, and Arbirlot. There are a
number of beautifully executed bridges both under
and over it; and the bulwark, or sea-wall, which runs
from Dundee to the deep cutting at Craigie, is a
work of great magnitude, showing, in an eminent
degree, the skill and ingenuity of the company's
engineer, Mr. Miller, of Grainger and Miller, Edin-
burgh, under whose direction the whole line was
planned and executed. The authorized capital of
the company was £266,700 in shares and £88,900 in
loans. But, in 1863, the Dundee and Arbroath was
amalgamated with the Scottish Northeastern.
DUNDEE AND NEWTYLE RAILWAY, a
railway from Dundee and Lochee to Strathmore.
It was' opened, in 1831, as a single truck-line, 10J
miles long, from Dundee to Newtyle ; was leased in
perpetuity, under an act of 1846, to the Dundee and
Perth company ; and was greatly altered both under
that act and under one of 1859. It has stations at
Liff, Camperdown, Lochee, Baldovan, Baldragon,
Dronley, and Auehterhouse. It originally left Dun-
dee on an inclined plane of 800 yards in length, with
a gradient of 1 yard in 10, and proceeded through a
shoulder of Dundee-law, in a tunnel of 340 yards in
length, toward the valley of the Diehty ; but these
features of it, as also a branch from it for goods
through the streets to the Dundee and Perth ter-
minus, have disappeared. It ascends an inclined
plane, in the gorge of the Sidlaws, to a summit-level
of 544 feet above the level of the sea, — and descends
a second inclined plane, through the Slack of New-
tyle, into the valley of Strathmore. Itis connected by
branches there with the Scottish Northeastern rail-
way,— some of which originally were its own; and
it communicates through these with Coupar-Angus,
Meigle, Glammis, and Forfar. A new portion of it,
7j miles long, was opened on 10th June 1859, and
the Lochee section, 6 miles long, was opened on
10th June 1861. The authorized capital for it, prior
to its being leased, was £140,000 in shares, and
£30,000 in loans; and further capitals were author-
ized of £50,000 in shares and £16,606 in loans by
the act of 1846, and £70,000 in preference shares by
the act. of 1859.
DUNDEE AND PERTH RAILWAY, a rail-
way from Dundee to Perth. It was opened in
May, 1847. It is 21J miles in length, and has
stations for Invergowrie, Longforgan, Inchture,
Errol, Glencarse, and Kinfauns. Its course lies
along the left bank of the Tay, through the Carse
of Gowrie and past the skirts of the Hill of Kin-
noul, to the vicinity of Perth ; and the scenery on
its flanks — the wooded shores and islets of the river
on the one side, the luxuriant lands and ornate
screens of the cavse on the other, with profusion of
grove, park, mansion, and variegated feature on
both — is everywhere beautiful, in many places
brilliant, from Glencarse to Perth superb. The
line commences at Yeaman shore,- -skirts the west-
DUNDELCHACK.
456
DUNDONALD.
ern part of Dundee on a sea-embankment, — runs
along the face of the romantic Miff of Will's Braes,
— crosses the lovely river bead, of Invergowrie bay,
near the village and quaint old churchyard of In-
vergowrie,— is carried on a stupendous viaduct
across the great sandstone quarries of Kingoodie, —
passes near the bay of Inchture, and harbour of
Powgavie, the shipping-place of the Carse of Gowrie.
— sheers off to some little distance from Errol, and
northward of Inohyra, — coincides again with the
river's bank, past Kinnoul, — crosses the Tay, from
Barnhill, on a magnificent bridge, of great length,
in the form of a segment of a circle, with the central
part resting on an island, — and terminates at the
Prince's-street station in Perth. — Both the Dundee
and Perth railway, and the Dundee and Newtyle were
amalgamated, in" 1863, with the Scottish Central ;
and that again was amalgamated, in 1865, with the
Caledonian.
Great changes were contemplated, in 1865, by the
Caledonian company, specially affecting the interior
of the town of Dundee ; and great changes, to com-
pete with these, were contemplated at the same time,
by the North British company, a chief feature of
which was to make direct access to Dundee by
bridging the Tay; but all were suspended by a com-
promise early in 1866.
DUNDELCHACK (Loch), a lake in the parish
of Daviot, Inverness-shire. It is about 6 miles long,
and 1 J broad. It never freezes in winter, but very
readily in spring, by one night's frost, in calm
weather. It pours its waters, by a small stream,
into the Nairn, forming in its course several beauti-
ful lochlets.
DUNDONALD, a parish in the north-west of
Kyle, Ayrshire. It contains the post-office villages
of Dundonald and Troon, a suburb of the post-town
of Irvine, and tire villages of Old Borne, Shewalton,
and Loans. It is bounded on the north by Irvine
water, which separates it from Irvine, Dreghorn,
and Kilmaurs ; on the east by Riccarton and Craigie ;
on the south-east by Symington and Monkton ; and
on the south-west and west by the frith of Clyde.
From a bend in Irvine water, before that stream
enters Irvine harbour, the parish extends south-
ward along the coast 7£ miles; in its greatest
breadth it extends between 6 and 7 miles; and
it contains an area of about 17 square miles. It
is divided from south to north into two nearly equal
parts by the low range called the Claven hills, and
afterwards by Shewalton moss. The upper or east-
ern section is a rolling surface of gentle eminences,
adorned with clumps and belts of plantation; and
consists, in general, of a fertile, loamy clay. The
lower or western section is nearly a dead flat. Im-
mediately on the coast, except around Troon, and in
some other spots, it is sandy and barren ; and from
half-a-mile inland, it has an excellent soil, and is in
a state of fine cultivation. The promontory of
Troon, protruding 1J mile into the sea, and not J
mile of average breadth, forms a fine feature in the
landscape of the Ayrshire coast, as seen from the
eminences south-eastward of Ayr. The Claven hills
range south-eastward about 3 miles, and south-west-
ward about 1 J mile, and are all either under culture,
in pasturage, or covered with plantation. They are
so low as not to bear comparison with the other hills
of the county, yet have long been distinguished by
particular names. One of the largest is called War-
ley hill, — probably a corruption of 'warlike;' and
bears on its summits the vestiges of two encamp-
ments. The Norwegians who landed near Ayr, and
were afterwards defeated at Largs, it is thought,
fortified this hill; and they here were not only on a
post of great security from the hostile warlike ap-
pliances of their period, but enjo}red a delighthu and
extensive view over the rich amphitheatre of Cun-
ningham and Kyle, and the picturesque attractions
of the frith of Clyde. On a rising ground, near the
village of Dundonald, stands the ruin of Dundonald
castle, which we shall notice in a subsequent para-
graph. Westward of the castle is a very beautiful
sylvan hank, nearly a mile in length, and, in most
places, upwards of 100 feet in height. In a grand
curvature of this bank, and on a gentle eminence,
stands the house of Auchans, for a long period the
residence of the Wallaces of Dundonald; afterwards,
about 1640, the property of Sir William Cochrane of
Loudon, who was created Earl of Dundonald; and
subsequently the possession of the Earls of Eglinton.
At the Auchans are the remains of a small orchard,
which was once in high reputation. The pear,
well-known in Scotland by the name of Auchans,
derived its name from this place. The tree came
originally from France, was planted in this orchard,
grew to a great height, and was, a number of years
ago, blown down by a storm. It appears that the
Wallaces had preceded the noble family of Dundon-
ald in the possession of this property, as veil as that
of Auchans; for Douglas mentions John Wallace of
Dundonald and Auchans, as having married a
daughter of David Stuart of Castlemilk, some time
posterior to the year 1570. Both father and son, of
the same name, are mentioned as proprietors o(
Dundonald, a. d. 1572. Plantations, especially
around Auchans, are large. Shewalton moss,
nearly 4 miles in circumference, affords an inex-
haustible supply of peat. Coal abounds, and is
worked in large quantities for exportation. Sand-
stone of fine quality is quarried at Craiksland.
Honestone abounds on the estate of Curreath. The
principal landowners are the Duke of Portland, Sir
Percy A. Fairlie, Bart., Boyle of Shewalton, Camp-
hell of Craigie, and ten or eleven others; and the
principal mansions are Fullarton, Fairlie, Shewal-
ton, Newfield, Curreath, and Hillhouse. The real
rental is about £23.700. The parish is traversed by
the Ayr fork of the Glasgow and South-western
railway, and by the Troon and Kilmarnock railway ;
and it has harbours at Troon and at Fullarton,—
the suburb of Irvine. Its industry is very diversi-
fied, ranging through the departments of agriculture,
mining, handicraft, handloom-weaving, ship-build-
ing and commerce. It also partakes considerably,
round Troon, the character of a summer sea-bathing
retreat. The Lady Isle is in it. Assessed propertv
in 1860, £27,538. Population in 1831, 5,579; in
1861, 7,606. Houses, 830.
This parish is in the presbytery of Ayr, and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Earl of Eglinton.
Stipend, £256 2s. hd.; glebe, £8. Unappropriated
teinds, £647 Is. 5d. Schoolmaster's salary £52 10s.,
witli fees. The parish church was built in 1803,
and repaired in 1835, and contains 611 sittings.
Two chapels of ease were erected about 22 years
ago, respectively at Troon and at Fullarton, each
containing about 900 sittings. There are three
Free churches, at respectively Dundonald, Troon,
and Fullarton; receipts in 1865, of the first, £124
4s. l{d.,— of the second, £246 2s. 8£d.,— of the
third-, £247 14s. There is an United Presbyterian
church at Troon, with 289 sittings. There are an
Assembly's school and a charity school at Fullar-
ton, a female industrial school at Dundonald, two
female schools at Troon, two Free church schools at
Troon and Fullarton, and four subscription schools
at Troon, Darley, Drybridge, and Old Eome. A
bequest of £1,000 was" left, in 1842, by Dr. James
Macadam for distributing annually, to the poor
parishioners of Dundonald, the value of its interest
DUNDONALD.
457
DUNDORNADIL.
in coals and blankets. The parish of Dundonald
anciently comprehended, on the cast, the chapelry
of liiccavton, which was erected into a separate
parish long before the Reformation; and, on the
south, the chapelry of Crossby, now included in the
united parishes of Moukton and Prestwick. The
church, along with its two chapels, belonged to the
monks of Paisley, and was served by a vicar.
Tho Village of Dundonald stands on the road
from Irvine to Dalniellington, and on that from Troon
to Kilmarnock, 2 J miles east of the nearest part of
the sea-beach and 4 miles south-west of Irvine. " It
has an interesting aspect with its one- storey tene-
ments, and stripes of carefully cultivated land ad-
joining, and the beehives clustering among pretty
Hower-plots, to which the ruins of Dundonald castle
impart a romantic air. In the rear of the ruin a
precipice juts out, overhung by dark masses of trees,
at whose feet slumbers a miniature loch, formed by
a gurgling streamlet, which meanders pleasantly
through the valley." Population of the village, 345.
Dundonald castle has never made any conspicuous
appearance in our national history; but it claims
attention as having been the residence of some of
our princes of the house of Stewart. This castle
gives name to the earldom in the family of Coch-
rane; but the rising ground on which the castle
stands, with 5 roods of land adjoining, is all the
property in this parish which now pertains to that
family. No authentic record can be produced as
to the time when the castle was built, or when it
was spoiled of its roof, and rendered desolate. A
large pile still remains. The walls are very thick,
and built of whins tone, which abounds in the vicin-
ity. The corners are of a freestone superior in
quality to any now found in the parish. The Stuart
arms are engrossed in different parts of the build-
ing; and the whole has much the form of those
castles which were raised in many places of Britain
during the 12th and 13th centuries. "The manor
and parish of Dundonald," says Chalmers, "be-
longed to Walter, the son of Alan, the first Stewart,
who held the whole of the northern half of Kyle, in
the beginning of the reign of William the Lion;
and it might have been granted to him by David
I., or his successor Malcolm IV. Perhaps the castle
of Dundonald was built by the first Walter, who had
no appropriate house or castle when he settled in
Scotland. It seems to have been the only castle
which the Stewarts bad in their extensive barony
of Kyle Stewart; but several of their vassals had
small castles in that district." Some writers have
asserted — although perhaps rather on doubtful au-
thority,— that Walter, the first of this name, and
son of Fleance, received from Malcolm Canmore the
baronies of Strathgryfe or Renfrew, and Kyle, in
lieu of his pretensions to Locbaber. We do not
know that the name of this place occurs before the
mention that is made of it in the designation of
Walter, the third of this Christian name, who is de-
signed ' of Dundonald.' He was made Justiciary of
Scotland by Alexander II., in 1230. It was his son
Alexander who behaved so gallantly in the battle of
Largs, against the Norwegians. " The castle of
Dundonald," says Chalmers again, "became the
retreat of Robert II., after his retirement from gov-
ernment, upon the death of James, Earl of Douglas,
at Otterbuvn, in 1388." He must, however, before
this date, have occasionally made this the place of
his residence; for Sir John Kennedy, of Dunure,
having endowed a chapel adjoining the burial-place
of the parish-church of Maybole, this grant is con-
firmed by Robert II. at Domdouenald, 4th December,
1371. Robert II., after he ascended the throne,
lived much in Dundonald castle; and he died here
in 1390. This event is particularly commemorated
by the prior of St. Serf's Inch in Lochlevin:
"The sccownd Robert of Scotland Kyng,
As God punvnid, ninid ondyng
At Downdownald in Ids clllllro.
Of ft scliort scknes thnre deyd he."
In the same fortress, his mild but unfortunate son
and successor, Robert 11 1, occasionally resided. We
need scarcely remind the reader, that this prince
had been baptized by the name of John; but that
this being deemed an unlucky name — as exemplified
in the history of King John of England, of John
Baliol, and of John, king of France — it was, at his
accession, judged expedient that he should assumo
that of Robert. Hence, in the language of the vul-
gar, be was commonly known by the soubriquet ot
John Fernveir, equivalent to "John of the last
year," or " lie who was formerly called John." His
first title of honour seems to have been Lord of
Kyle; afterwards he was Karl of Carrick; as we
learn from Wyntoun: —
"Syne eftynvartis id! a qwhile
Wytti n gret folk the Lord of Kyle,
That syne was Erie of Karryke,
And alsua Prynce of our kynryk,
Made in Annandirdale a rade,
And sa lang tyme thare-in he bade,
Qn-hill all the folk of that cuntie,
Consentyt Scottis men to be."
It would appear, that the title above referred to was
not, like that of Earl of Carriek, connected with the
dignity of heir apparent, but had been given to him,
as a younger son, from the patrimonial inheritance
of the Stewarts. This prince terminated his un-
happy reign on April 4th, 1406. According to
Pinkerton, this event took place at the castle ol
Rothesay in Bute. This corresponds with the ac-
count given by the continuator of Fordun, and by
Skene in his ' Table of all the Kinges of Scotland.'
But Ruddiman, David Macpherson, and others, give
the preference to Wyntoun's testimony, who savs
that he died at Dundonald: —
" A thousand and fonre hundyr yere
To tha the scxt all rekuyt clere. —
Robert the thrid, oure Lord the Kyng,
Maid at Dimdownald his endyng."
Not fiir from this royal seat, the remains of an an-
cient ecclesiastical foundation are still to be seen,
popularly denominated, ' Our Lady Kirk of Kyle : '
but the time of its erection is quite unknown. This
chapel was called Capella de la Grace, as appears
from a charter of James IV., a. d. 1490. From its
vicinity to Dundonald, it seems to have, at least,
occasionally received some special tokens of royal
favour. For the same prince, we are told, never
passed through that part of the country without
making an offering at ' Our Lady's Kirk of Kyle.'
It appears that belonging to this establishment,
there was a minister of the church of Rome, who
was commonly known as " Our Lady of Kyle's
Pardoner," and who seems, like others of the same
order, to have perambulated the country for the pur-
pose of vending her acts of grace. Population, 214.
DUN'DONY, a small green island, opposite Stir-
linghill, in the parish of Peterhead, Aberdeenshire.
Here, in former times, was a salt-pan.
DUNDORNADIL, or Dorxadilla's Tower, oi
Dunharduil, an ancient hill-fort on the east side of
Loch Ness, in the parish of Durness. It stands
upon a high hill, of a circular or rather conical
shape, the summit of which is accessible only on
the south-east, by a narrow ridge which connects
the mount with a billy chain that runs up to
Stratherrick. On every other quarter, the ascent is
almost perpendicular; and a rapid river winds round
DUNDRENNAN.
458
DUNDRENNAN.
the circumference of the base. The summit is sur-
rounded by a very strong wall of dry stones, which
was once of great height and thickness. The en-
closed area is an oblong square of 25 yards long,
and 15 yards broad; it is level and clear of stones,
and has on it the remains of a w."U. Upon a
shoulder of this hill, about 50 feet below the sum-
mit, there is a druidical temple, consisting of a
circle of large stones firmly fixed in the ground,
with a double row of stones extending from one side
as an avenue or entry to the circle.
DUNDEENNAN, a post-office village, with a
famous old abbey-ruin, in the parish of Rerwick,
Kirkcudbrightshire. It stands in a narrow valley,
on the right bank of the Abbey burn, about 2 miles
from the Solway frith, and 5 miles east-south-east
of Kirkcudbright. It consists chiefly of feus upon
the estates of Dundrennan and Orroland. The
situation is elegantly beautiful, with fine neigh-
bouring prospects down the valley, and across the
frith. The houses are pleasantly interspersed with
picturesque old trees, and combine finely into one
scene witli the precincts of the abbe}'. Here is a
parochial school. Population of the village, 202.
Houses, 47. There is a mansion of Dundrennan.
The parish of Eerwick also anciently bore the name
of Dundrennan. The rains of Dundrennan abbey,
though now miserably dilapidated, evince it to have
been a beautiful and extensive pile. The church was
in the form of a cross, surmounted by a spire 200 feet
high. The body was 120 feet long, and divided into
3 aisles by clustered columns spanned with arches, —
the side-aisles each 15 feet broad, and the middle
aisle 25. The transept measured, from north to
south, 120 feet, and from east to west 46 feet. On
the south side of the church were the cloisters, en-
closing a square area of 94 feet, with a grass plot in
the centre. East and west but chiefly south of these,
were the lodgings and different offices of the monas-
tery, occupying a space of nearly 300 square feet.
This abbey was founded, in 1142, by Fergus, Lord
of Galloway. Its first monks were brought from the
Cistertian abbey of Eievall, in Yorkshire ; and its
first abbot was Sylvanus, who died in 1189. A sub-
sequent abbot sat in the great parliament, at Brig-
ham, in 1290, for settling the succession of the
Crown. Walter — either the same abbot or his suc-
cessor— swore fealty to Edward I. in 1296; and re-
ceived, in return, a precept to the sheriffs of Ber-
wick and of Cumberland for the restriction of the
property of his house. Eobert I. and David II.
granted to the monks considerable territorial pos-
sessions. In the beginning of the 15th century,
Thomas, the abbot, sat in the celebrated general
councils of Constance and Basil. Edward Maxwell,
of the noble family of that name, was abbot in the
time of Mary; and afforded her an asylum here
upon her flight from the disastrous battle of Lang-
side. Dundrennan was one of those abbeys whose
functionaries were appointed by the King, indepen-
dently of the Pope. In 1587, all its property de-
volved to the Crown by the act of annexation. In
1605, it was made over to Gavin Hamilton, who had
been consecrated bishop of Galloway. A consider-
able part of the useful Chronicle of Melrose was com-
piled by a monk of Dundrennan, — most probably by
Abbot Thomas.
" Dundrennan abbey," says Mr. M'Diarmid, " like
most religious houses built by the Catholics in the
olden time, is beautifully situated in a valley of the
same name. Whether the surrounding limited dis ■
tiict gave to or received from the monastery its
present appellation, is a point we pause not to dis-
cuss— but most probably the former. The site of
the edifice ;s merely sloping, and hardly deserves
the name of an eminence; but a brawling 'burn
passes hard by; hills of various forms appear at a
little distance; the braes which form the fore-
ground, are in many places engagingly covered with
copse; the Solway, a well-known arm of the sea,
comes rippling to the land, at less than 2 miles
to the south; and there are eminences plentifully
scattered around that command delightful marine
views over a long line of frith, including Skiddaw
and his congeners, the isle of Man, and, looming far
a-head, the singularly peaked mountains of Morne
in Ireland. When the monastery was inhabited,
all these and other objects must liave been distinctly
visible from the turret and tower; and, as regards
vast amplitude of scenery, resting on the placid,
running into the picturesque, and intermingling the
sublime, there could be few retreats of the same
order more highly favoured than Dundrennan abbey.
The name of Queen Mary lends a charm to Dun-
drennan which bids fair to defy dissociation so
long as one stone of the building remains upon an-
other. After the disastrous battle of Langside,
her course seems to have lain by the romantic Glen-
keus; and, in wending her way through its wildest
recesses, she drew rein for a brief space at Queens-
hill, — a property situated near the head of the vale
of Tarf, the name of which was changed in honour
of the above memorable event. At Tongland she is
said to have crossed the Dee, — not of course by the
splendid bridge erected by Telford, but a frail
wooden erection, which her attendants destroyed as
one means of retarding the movements of the enemy.
While this work proceeded, the beleagured Queen
sought temporary shelter and refreshment in the
cottage of a widow, who cheerfully gave of her
little all, and was rewarded, scanty as ways and
means may have been, to the extent of her ambition
as proprietrix of a humble domicile and adjoin-
ing field. Still it is not easy to map the exact route
of the persecuted and beautiful Mary during her
flight to the coast. That she paused and break-
fasted at the castle of Lord Han'is, in the parish of
Kirkgunzeon, is considered certain; and equally so
that she visited the hospitable mansion of Lord
Nithsdale — Terregles — where specimens of her
needle-work, and the bed in which she slept are still
shown; and it is natural to suppose that both hurried
visits must have been paid after her crossing the
Dee at Tongland. It was evening when the Queen
reached Dundrennan ; and the impression has long
been erroneously cherished that her last sad sojourn
on the shores of a country which she never revisited
except in dreams, was passed under the roof of this
abbey. The monks, no doubt, bore her true fealty,
but they perhaps dreaded the vengeance of her pur-
suers in the shape of fine or confiscation; and, from
whatever motive, a lodging was provided in a
private house, which, at the period alluded to, was
occupied by the ancestors of the late Mrs. Anderson
of Stroquhan. The monks, however, attended her
to the water's edge, — assisted in seating her in an
open boat, — and after waving many an affectionate
adieu, slowly bent their steps homeward, pausing
at intervals to mark how the frail bark progressed
towards its destination. The elements, according
to tradition, were auspicious, and the Solway on the
day of expatriation, presented none of the terrors of
a Highland loch —
'The blackening wave is edged with white,
Tempt not the gloomy frith to-day.
Port-Mary is simply a creek surrounded by high
rocks, which received its name from the circum-
stances recorded, as did Maryport on the opposite,
side, the point of debarkation."
DUNDROICII.
459
DUNFERMLINE.
DUNDROICH, or ' the Druids' hill,' a mountain
on the boundary line hetween Peebles-shire and
Edinburghshire, but ehiefly within the limits of the
parish of Eddlestone in the former county. It rises
2,100 feet above the level of the sea, and commands
a view, on one side, of Lanarkshire ; on another, of
Annandale; on a third, of Teviotdale; and on a
fourth, of the three Lothians and Fifeshire.
DUNDUFF. See Maybole and Dunfermline.
DUNDURAMH. See Lociigoii.head.
DUNDURCUS. See Boharm.
DUNDURN. See Comrie.
DUNDYVAN and NEW DL'NDYYAN, two
large manufacturing villages in the parish of Old
Monkland, Lanarkshire. They stand contiguous
to Coatbridge, and in a sense form part of it, blend-
ing with it in the landscape, participating entirely
with it in character, and sharing fully in its advan-
tages of traffic and institutions. They, however,
have ironworks of their own, with nine smelting
furnaces, — also an academy of their own, with three
teachers. Population of Dundyvan, 1,298. Houses,
169. Population of New Dundyvan, 2,204. Houses,
376. See Coatbridge.
DUNEARN. See Burntisland.
DUNEATON (The), a small river of the upper
ward of Lanarkshire. It rises on the south-east side
of Cairntable, and runs about 13 miles south-east-
ward, exclusive of sinuosities, partly on the boundary
between the parish of Douglas and the parish of
Crawfordjohn, but chiefly down the interior of the
latter parish, to a confluence with the Clyde at a
point about 2 miles below Abington. It is fed by so
many little affluents that, over the last 4 or 5 miles of
its course, it has an average width of about 40 feet.
It is much subject to freshets; and then it overflows
alluvial lands on its banks, and is liable to change
its channel and its fords.
DUNEIRA. See Comrie and Stratiiearn.
DUNEMARK. See Culross.
DUNEVAN, an ancient hill-fort near Calder in
Nairnshire. The fortifications consist of two ram-
parts, enclosing an oblong level space on the top of
the hill ; and within that space are traces of a well,
and remains of a large mass of building which gave
accommodation to the garrison. This fortress held a
telegraphic communication, through two inter-
mediate heights, with Dundornadil on Loch Ness.
DUNFERMLINE, a parish in the south-west of
Fifeshire. It contains the royal burgh of Dunferm-
line, the post-towns of Charleston, Limekilns, Hal-
beath, and North Queensferry, part of the post-town
of Crossgates, and the villages of Crossford, Master-
ton, and Patiemuir. The part containing the village
of North Queensferry lies 2J miles south-south-east
of the nearest part of the rest of the parish, and is a
modem annexation formerly belonging to Inver-
keithing. The main body measures about 9 miles
in extreme length from north to south, 6 miles in
extreme breadth a little south of the middle, 3 miles
in breadth in the northern part, and about 36 square
miles or 21,264 imperial acres in area. It is bounded
on the south by the frith of Forth and by Inver-
keithing; on the east by Inverkeithing, Aberdour,
Dalgetty and Beath ; on the north by Kinross-shire;
and on the west by Saline, Camock, and Torryburn.
The greater portion of it has a southern aspect, the
ground rising gradually from the sea towards the
north. South of the town of Dunfermline, it is well-
cultivated and enclosed ; and the number of gentle-
men's seats, with their wooded grounds, gives much
beauty to the scenery. Towards the north, the soil
is not so good ; and although much has been done
in the way of improvement, the general appearance
of that part of the parish is not so interesting as it
is to the south. The coast is about 1$ mile in ex-
tent, variously high and flat, chiefly rocky, with the
bay, harbour, and village of Limekilns in its centre,
and the harbour, limeworks, and village of Charles-
ton at its western extremity. The general surface
of the palish rises with not much diversity to the
vicinity of the burgh, becomes there picturesquely
undulated, and alters northward into increasing
inequality of height and hollow. The principal
hills are Craigluscar on the north-western border,
and the hill of Beath on the boundary with the par-
ish of Beath, — the latter clothed with verdure to its
summit, and commanding a brilliant prospect. Tho
only stream deserving notice is the Lyne or Spital
bum. This rises in the vicinity of Crossgates, and
near the boundary with Dalgetty. Having received
various accessions, it becomes considerable below
the town, frequently overflows its banks, and lays
the rich fields of Pittencrieff, Loggie, Keavil, and
Pitliver under water. After running towards the
western extremity of the parish, it unites with an-
other small brook, and takes a southern direction,
along the boundary with Torryburn, to the frith of
Forth. There are, in the northern part of the parish,
several lakes — chiefly the Town loch, Lochfitty,
Lochgloe, and Black loch — whose aggregate area,
together with that of the streams, has been com-
puted at 227 acres. About 13,400 acres of the
parochial surface are under cultivation, about 1,135
are under wood, and about 3,730 are either waste or
pastoral. The principal landowners are the Earl ol
Elgin and Kincardine, Sir Peter Arthur Halket,
Bart., Blackwood of Pitreavie, Hunt of Pittencrieff,
Wellwood of Garvock, Barclay of Keavil, and Durie
of Craigluscar; but there are about forty others.
The real rental in 1844 was £24,161 in land, £4,195
in minerals, £18,677 in the burgh, and £3,441 in the
villages. The yearly value of raw produce was
estimated in 1844 at £116,767; of which £39,000
were for coals, £12,583 for limestone and lime-shells,
£441 for sandstone and whinstone, and the rest for
the produce of land. Assessed property in 1866,
exclusive of the burgh, £40,715 12s. lOd. ; inclusive
of the burgh, £67,610 lis. 5d.
In the immediate neighbourhood of the town, to-
ward the south-west, is the mansion of Pittencrieff".
" The moment you leave the street," says Mercer,
" you enter a private gate, and are on the verge of a
deep glen filled with fine old trees, that wave their
foliage over the ruins of the ancient palace. A little
farther on is the peninsular mount, on which Mal-
colm Canmore resided in his stronghold,— tho
original germ of Dunfermline. Round the base of
the mount winds a rivulet, over which is a bridge
leading to the mansion-house, situated on the farther
bank, in a spacious park well-wooded, adorned with
shrubberies, and having a splendid prospect to the
south. The ground, too, is classical ; for amidst
this scenery, three centuries ago, when it was even
more romantic than it is at present, must often have
wandered the poet Henryson, holding sweet dal-
liance with the muses. There can be no doubt that
here was the very ' wod ' he so beautifu'ly describes
in the introduction to one of his fables : —
'In myddis of June, that jolly sweet sessonn,
Qulien that fair Phebus, with his beaniis brychl.
Had dryit up the dew fra daill and doun.
And all the land maid with his leinys lyclit;
In a morning betwene mid-day and liyvht.
I raiss and put all sluith and sleep on syde;
Ontill a wod I went allone, but gyd.
Sueit was Ihc smell of flomis quhyt and reid,
The noyis ofbirdis ryeht delitious;
The bewis brod blwniyt abone my held:
The grund growand with grassis graticuh,
Of all pleasans that place was plenteous.
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With sueit odours and birdis armonie ;
The niornyng mild my mirth was mair forlliy.
The roseis reid arrayit rone and ryss,
The primrose and the pnrpure viola:
To heir it was a poynt of paradyss,
Sic myrth the mavyss and the merle cowth ma
The blossoms blyth brak up on bank and bra;
The smell of herbis, and of foulis the cry,
Contending: quhu suld have the victory."'
In the 13th century this property belonged to Wil-
liam de Oberwell, who, in 1291, granted a right to
the monastery of working coal for their own use in
his lands. In 1632 Thomas, 3d Lord Bruce of Kin-
loss, afterwards Earl of Elgin, had a charter of the
barony of Pittencrieff ; and Sibbald informs us that
in his time it was the property of a Mr. Forbes.
About the middle of the last centuiy it belonged to
George Chalmers, Esq. ; and afterwards it passed
by purchase to the family of Hunt. — The mansion-
house and finely-wooded grounds of Pitferrane, the
seat of Sir Peter Arthur Halket, Bart, have been
held by the Halket family since the end of the 14th
century, having been acquired from the Seotts of
Balwearie, the previous proprietors, about 1399.
From a remote period this family had the right of
exporting coals from their lands to foreign countries
free of duty. In 1707 the privilege was purchased
by government for £40,000 sterling. — Near the sea-
coast, is Broomhall, the elegant mansion of the
Earl of Elgin and Kincardine, situated on an elevated
lawn overlooking the village of Limekilns. The
lands of Broomhall formerly bore the name of West
Gellet, and do not seem to have come into the
possession of the ancestors of their present proprietor
till about the time of their first elevation to the
peerage, at the beginning of the 17th century.
f hey yield nearly one-fourth of the total rent tl of
the parish. The Earl of Elgin claims to be the
representative of the male line of the illustrious
house of Bruce, but without ability to trace it to the
royal Robert. — Pitreavie, situated to the east of
Broomhall, belonged formerly to the baronet family
of Wardlaw, who derived their name from an office
which their ancestors held in the administration of
law under the Anglo-Saxon kings. The 13th
baronet, born in 1794, is now a resident in Edin-
burgh. Sir Henry, the first baronet, founded an
hospital at Mastertown. His lady, Elizabeth Hal-
ket, of the family of Pitferrane, is now admitted
to have been the authoress of the fine ballad of
Hardyknute, which so long puzzled the antiquaries
of the day, and to which Pinkerton wrote a second
part, which gave rise also to much controversy.
She is buried in a vault on the outside of the church
of Dunfermline. The Scottish troops were defeated
at Pitreavie by a detachment of Cromwell's forces
under Colonel Overton, on the 20th of July, 1651,
when 3,000 fell, and 1,200 were taken prisoners.
Coal was wrought in this parish before all other
places in Britain, except two, and has been wrought
in great profusion; yet is still exceedingly abun-
dant. The unwrought strata are computed to ex-
tend to nearly 3,000 acres; and they comprise, in
some parts, 10 or 12 seams of the aggregate thick-
ness of upwards of 40 feet. The largest division of
the coal-field lies within the property of the Earl of
Elgin. The whole area belonging to him, wrought
and unwrought, may be stated at from 2,600 to
2,700 acres. About 800 or 900 of these, which are
the most southern, are nearly exhausted. A large
portion of this extensive coal-field Lord Elgin holds
on a lease of 999 years, from the Pitferrane family.
Almost all the coal partakes more or less of the
caking quality and soft texture of the Newcastle coal.
A new pit was opened in 1 839, named the Wallsend
pit, which is the deepest coal-shaft in Scotland, and
probably one of the most valuable. It is in depth
105 fathoms, 1 foot. There are 19 beds of coal, con-
taining altogether 49 feet, 8 inches of coal, which
can be worked in 13 separate divisions, by this pit.
About 60,000 tons are annually raised at the Elgin
collieries, two-thirds of which are exported, chiefly
to the Mediterranean and the Baltic. Immediately
east of the Elgin collieries is the Wellwood colliery.
It is situated about a mile north of Dunfermline.
The coal from this work is extensively used in the
town of Dunfermline and neighbourhood, and a large
quantity of it is also exported, principally to France.
The steam-boats plying between Paris and Rouen
are almost entirely supplied with it. The quantity
of coals annually raised at this work is about 40,000
tons. To the east of this colliery, and about 1 J mile
from the town, are the Townhill and Appin col-
lieries. The yearly output from these amounts to
about 15,000 tons, part of which is conveyed by a
railway to Inverkeithing, and shipped there for
France and the Baltic. Still farther to the east,
and 2h miles from the town, is the large and very
old colliery of Halbeath, which makes a larger out-
put than the Townhill and Appin collieries, and also
sends part of its produce by railway for shipment at
Inverkeithing. This colliery likewise yields cannel
coal for gas-works. There are other two collieries,
at Cuttlehill and South Letham; but they are small.
Limestone is found and wrought for sale on the
lands of Broomhall, Boscobie, Lathalmond, and
Dunduff. Those at Charleston on Broomhall lands,
are the most extensive: see Charleston. There
are several whinstone and freestone quarries in the
parish. Iron-stone pervades the whole coal-field of
the Earl of Elgin, in thin bands and balls, and was
once wrought to the extent of 4,000 to 5,000 tons
per annum. Copper pyrites, in small quantities, is
found embedded in the clay iron-stone, with car-
bonate of lime. In addition to the manufactories
which will occur to be noticed in our account of the
town, there are a brewery at Crossford, three tile and
brick works at Charleston and elsewhere, an iron
foundry and a saw-mill at Charleston, and four corn
or meal mills in different localities. The parish is
traversed westward from the town by the Stirling
and Dunfermline railway, and eastward from the
town by the Dunfermline branch of the North British
railway; and another branch of the latter was in
progress in 1866 from the town to North Queensferry.
Population of the parish in 1831, 17,068; in 1861,
21.187. Houses, 2,877.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Fife. The charge is collegiate; and the
patron of both charges is the Crown. Stipend of the
first minister, £299 Us. 8d.; glebe, £34. Stipend of
the second minister, £299 1 1 s. 8d. without glebe or
manse. The parish church was built in 1821, and
repaired in 1835; and contains nominally 2,050 sit-
tings, but availably only about 1,400. Attendance,
730. St. Andrew's church was originally built as
a chapel of ease, but was constituted, in June, 1851,
by the Court of Teinds, a quoad sacra parish church.
Sittings, 797. The North church, situated at the
east end of Golfdrum, was built in 1840 as an ex-
tension church, and likewise is now a quoad sacra
parish church. Sittings, 800. The ministers of St.
Andrew's and the North are both elected by trus-
tees. There are three Free churches in the town,
—the Abbey church, St. Andrew's church, and
North church — whose joint attendance in 1851
was 1,358. Receipts in 1865 of the first of these,
£540 8s. 3d.; of the second, £236 Is. 10d.; of
the third, £127 4s. IJd. There are four United
Presbyterian churches in the town,— Queen Anne-
street, with 1,612 sittings, and an attendance o'
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DUNFERMLINE.
880- Chalmers'-street, with 430 sittings, and an
attendance of 300; St. Margaret's, with 079 sittings,
and an attendance of 570; and Gillespie, with an
attendance of 470. There arc also two United I res-
byterian churches at respectively Limekilns and
Crossgates; the former, with 1,050 sittings, and an
attendance of 600, and the latter with 530 sittings,
and an attendance of 250. There are in the town
an Independent chapel with 700 sittings, and an at-
tendance of -150; an Irvingite or Catholic apostolic
meeting-house, with 310 sittings; an English Bap-
tist place of worship, with an attendance of 160; an
Episcopalian chapel, with 342 sittings, and an at-
tendance of 85; a Roman Catholic chapel, with an
attendance of 450; an Evangelical Union chapel;
and places of worship for three or four other sinali
bodies, all of different denominations.
There is no parochial school; but there are nu-
merous other schools, of high character, with great
diversity of adaptation. The burgh school, or high
school, is under the management of the magistrates
and the town-council, and is conducted by a master
and an assistant. The branches taught in it are
Greek, Latin, English, mathematics, geography,
arithmetic, and writing. The master has a salary
from the town, and the interest of a mortification by
Queen Anne, amounting to £22 12s. 6d._ The com-
mercial academy is under the direction of the
guildrv, and is conducted by a master and assist-
ants. " The same branches are taught in it as in the
burgh school. The Holland or Priory Lane school,
originated in a donation of .-CI ,000 by the late Adam
Holland, Esq. of Gask, is under flie direction of the
town-council, and affords cheap instruction, in the
common branches, to a large attendance of poor
children. The Maclean schools, in Golfdrum, ori-
ginated in a legacy by the late Rev. Allan Maclean,
are under the management of the kirk-session, and
comprise juvenile schools and an industrial school.
Wilson's institution dates from 1837, and was found-
ed by bequest of Mr. John Wilson. The Queen
Anne-Place schools were established by the ladies
of Dunfermline for poor girls. An elegant hall has
been built by subscription for a government school
of art. There are likewise in the town an Episcopal
school and a suite of Free-church schools. There
are excellent schools at all the collieries. There are
in the town three seminaries for young ladies; like-
wise several teachers of music. The total of day
schools in the parish, in 1844, exclusive of North
Queensferry, was 32, conducted by 37 teachers, and
attended by 2,622 scholars.
Dunfermline parish is an original one; but many
lands formerly belonging to it have been united to
the parishes of Beath and Carnock. A very ancient
document concerning it, commonly called the char-
tulary of Dunfermline, but which treats particularly
of the early affairs of Dunfermline abbey, and forms
in type a large quarto volume, was printed in 1842
by the Bannatyne Club. Many distinguished men
of the parish, both ecclesiastics and civilians, have
figured prominently in literature and politics.
Among the most eminent Scotsmen of the loth
century was ' Maister Robert Henryson, schohnais-
ter of Dumfermling.1 lie was a poet of consider-
able fancy, and successfully attempted various styles
of composition. His longest poem, — ' The Testa-
ment of the Fair Cresseide,' — " contains," says Dr.
Irving, " many strokes of poetical description, which
a writer of more than ordinary genius could only
have produced." He wrote a number of fables in
verse, which convey useful lessons, but are rather
prolix. Of these, probably the best is ' The Bor-
rowstonn Mous, and the Landwart Mous.' His pas-
toral ' Robin and Makyne ' displays a love of nature
and great sweetness of versification; and his ' Ab-
bey Walk' is full of serious reflections. The
learned civilian, Edward Henryson, LL.D., seems
to have been the grandson of the poet. George
Duric, abbot of Dunfermline, was made an extra-
oidinary lord of session in July, 1541, and keeper of
the privy-seal in 1554. He died in 1561. Robert
Pitcairn, abbot of Dunfermline, was secretary-of-
state during the regencies of Lennox, Mar, and
Morton, and afterwards under James VI. Three
other abbots of Dunfermline held the office of lord-
high-chancellor of Scotland. Arnold Blair, a monk
of Dunfermline, was chaplain to Sir William Wal-
lace, and wrote two Latin books on the events of his
day. John Durie, another monk of Dunfermline,
embraced the Protestant faith at the Reformation,
and became an eminent minister of it in Montrose,
Leith, and Edinburgh. Adain Blackwood, a native
of Dunfermline in the 16th century, settled in France,
published various works there, and was a senator
in the parliament of Poitiers. Alexander Seton,
fourth son of the sixth Lord Seton, and a senator of
the College of Justice, was in 1605 created Earl of
Dunfermline. This title became extinct in 1694 at
the death of James, the fourth Earl. The Eight
Honourable James Abercromby, speaker of the
House of Commons, and third son of the gallant
Sir Ralph Abercromby, was in 1839 called to the
House of Peers by the title of Baron Dunfermline
of Dunfermline. Admiral Sir Andrew Mitchell,
and Dr. Ebenezer Henderson, of Highbury College,
London, were natives of this parish.
The Town of Dunfermline stands a little south
of the centre of the parish, 2| miles north-north-
east of Limekilns, 5J north- west by north of North
Queensferry, 11 south-south-west of Kinross, 12
west-south-west of Kirkcaldy, 16 north-west of
Edinburgh, 21 east-south-east of Stirling, 29 south
of Perth, 30 south-west of Cupar-Fife, and 43 north-
oast of Glasgow. The greater part of it is situated
on an eminence of considerable extent, which
stretches from east to west, has an elevation of
about 270 feet above sea-level, and slopes in a pretty
bold declivity toward the south. But so soon does
the ground flatten, that the part of the burgh called
the Nethertown stands on a plain. The town, as
seen from any point sufficiently near to command
a close view of it, and at the same time sufficiently
distant to reveal it as a whole, presents a very fine
appearance. It looks to be embosomed in wood, —
exhibits over the tree-tops a tumulated surface of
houses, of very diversified size and form, — and lifts
into grand prominence Queen-Anne-street United
Presbyterian church, " with its enormous rectilinear
ridge," the lofty steeple of the former guild-hall,
now the seat of the local courts, the humbler spires
of the old part of the abbey and of the town-house,
and above all the splendid nave and magnificent
tower of the modern abbey parish church. A
stranger, on approaching it for the first time, forms
a very mistaken notion of its extent, supposing it to
be little else than a grand village in a grove; and,
on entering it, is surprised to find himself' in a large
town, teeming with activity, abounding in trade,
and every way worthy of holding the first rank
among burghs, between Stirling and Dundee, and
between Perth and Edinburgh.
The view from various parts of the town, par-
ticularly from the Abbey cemetery, is extensive and
brilliant; and that from the top of the church tower
comprises portions of twelve counties, ranging from
the Grampians to the Lammermoors, and from the
sources of the Forth to the German ocean. Irn
mediately under the eye are the fine tracts of soutn
western Fifeshire, together with their equally fine
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continuation in the detached district of Perthshire,
onward through Clackmannanshire to the Ochils.
Next is the frith of Forth, from North Queensferry
to Culross, sometimes concealed by an elevated
piece of shore, but here and there bursting abroad
in varied openings, and rendered all the more gay
by the checquering of it with land. Next are the
southern banks and screens of the Forth, beautifully
undulated and luxuriantly fertile, many wooded
swells of the Lothians, the heights of Edinburgh,
sometimes also its very spires, the pleasure-grounds
of Hopetoun, the promontory of Blackness, the har-
bour of Borrowstownness, and the windings of the
Forth through the carses to the vicinit}' of Stirling.
And at the limits of vision are the Lammermoors,
along the mutual border of Haddingtonshire and
Berwickshire, Soutra hill at the water-shed of the
Gala and the Tyne, the Pentland hills in Mid-
Lothian, Tiuto in Lanarkshire, the Campsie hills
in Stirlingshire, and Benlomond and Benledi among
the south-western Grampians.
The interior views of Dunfermline do not cor-
respond in beauty to the exterior. Antiquities,
public buildings, and natural situation, indeed, pre-
sent some things to fascinate, and many to please;
but the streets and private houses are far from
possessing a corresponding interest. The town as
a whole is neither well-aligned nor finely edificed.
There are no grand street views. The chief
thoroughfares, though containing substantial houses,
are narrow and irregular. Considerable improve-
ments, however, have been made, and are carefully
maintained. Many modern houses are neat; and
those in a line of street lately opened display much
taste. Several new streets have been formed; and a
large suburb on the west has been raised. Many neat
villas and cottages ornees, surrounded by gardens
and pleasure-grounds, stand in the outskirts, and
are inhabited by townsmen. A bridge 297 feet in
length, was built by the late George Chalmers, Esq.,
solely at his own expense, across the Pittencrieff
glen, otherwise called the glen of the Tower burn,
at the west side of the town ; and this bridge became
surmounted by excellent houses, with good shops,
so as to be one of the best streets in the burgh.
Here also, in this glen, are romantic natural features
and interesting ancient monuments. " Nature and
autiquity," remarks a recent guide book, "have
conspired to embellish Dunfermline with rare attrac-
tions. The exquisite beauty of Pittencrieff glen
could scarcely be surpassed. In point of situation
it is a most agreeable surprise, hanging on the
skirts of a manufacturing town like a jewel in an
Ethiop's ear."
In a tower in this glen, some small vestiges of
which still exist, and bear the name of Malcolm's
tower, 8 feet high, covered with grass, and sur-
rounded with traces which indicate that the original
area of the building was 60 feet by 50 — in this
tower resided Malcolm Canmore, King of Scotland ;
and here he married Margaret, a Saxon princess,
who had with her brother Edgar, the heir of the
English throne, fled to Scotland for refuge from the
Norman conqueror. Margaret was the daughter of
Edward, son of Edmund Ironside, king of England.
Upon William the Conqueror ascending the English
throne, Edgar, son of Edward, with his mother
Agatha, and two sisters, Margaret and Christian,
retired into Scotland. Some authors say that, being
on a voyage to Hungary, they were accidentally
driven hither by a storm. The place in the frith
where the ship anchored is a small bay, about a
mile north-west of North Queensferry, near the
present toll-bar. This bay is called St. Margaret's
Hope. On the side of the present road, near Pit-
reavie, about 2 miles from Dunfermline, is a large
stone called St. Margaret's stone. Here she is said
to have rested, leaning on this stone. North and
South Queensferry derive their name from St. Mar-
garet. " The site of Malcolm's tower," says Mercer,
in his excellent Histoiy of Dunfermline, " was
strikingly adapted for a stronghold, and could not
fail of attracting a rude engineer of the 1 1th century.
Fordun says, it was a place extremely strong by
natural situation, and fortified by steep rocks; in
the middle of which there was a pleasant level,
likewise defended by rock and water, so that it
might be imagined that the following words were
descriptive of this place : — Non liomini facilis, vix
acleunda feris. ' It is difficult to men, scarcely ac-
cessible by wild beasts.' The venvsla planities, — or
' pleasant level ' on which the tower was built, — •
forms the summit of a very steep eminence that rises
abruptly out of the glen, and causes the rivulet to
wind round its base, forming a peninsula. The whole
substructure of the glen on both sides is formed of
freestone, which projects in many places from the
surface ; and these rugged declivities must have been
clothed with thick impervious woods, rendering the
summits extremely difficult of access on three sides."
At the request of his queen, and of her confessor,
Malcolm founded and endowed, in the vicinity of
his own residence, a monastery for 13 Culdees,
which, with its chapel, was dedicated to the Holy
Trinity. The date of Malcolm's foundation must
have been between 1070, when he was married, and
1086, when he and his queen made extensive grants
to the church of the Holy Trinity. Malcolm's sons,
Ethelred and Edgar, also bestowed lands upon this
church. Alexander I. granted various lands to it,
and is said to have finished the church ; and his
queen, Sibilla, also conferred lands upon it. He
died at Stirling, but was interred at Dunfermline.
David I., who ascended the throne in 1124, in ac-
cordance with his policy in other parts of the king-
dom, not only added greatly to the wealth of the
monastery, but introduced into it a colony of the
Benedictines, or Black monks, from Canterbury in
England ; and for the purpose of making the change
of rales under which they were brought more agree-
able to the Culdees, he raised it to the dignity of an
abbey, having a mitred abbot for its head, and a prior
and sub-prior under him. From the style of the
architecture, Mr. Leighton is inclined to think that
it was during the reign of David I. that the church
— the nave of which still remains — was erected.
Gotfried or Gaufrid, who had been prior of Canter-
bury, was the first abbot. He died in 1154, and
was succeeded "by his nephew, Gaufrid. From a
statement made to the Pope in 1231, it appears that
the number of monks had then been increased to 50.
About the period of the death of Alexander III., it
had become one of the most extensive and magni-
ficent monasticestablishmentsin Scotland. Matthew
of Westminster says, that at this time " its boundaries
were so ample, — containing within its precincts
three carrucates of land, and having so many
princely buildings, — that three potent sovereigns,
with their retinues, might have been accommodated
with lodgings here, at the same time, without in-
commoding one another." When Edward of Eng-
land invaded Scotland in 1303, he resided in the
abbey of Dunfermline from the 6th of November
that year till the 10th of February, 1304. At leav-
ing it, Edward caused his army to set it on fire. " On
account," says Matthew of Paris, " of its magnitude,
the nobles of the kingdom were accustomed to as-
semble here to devise plots against Edward; and,
during war, they issued thence, and proceeded to
plunder and destroy the inhabitants of England.
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DUNFERMLINE.
Tin; royal army, therefore, — perceiving that they
had converted the temple of the Lord into a den of
thieves, and that it gave great offence to the English
nation, — utterly destroyed it, by levelling all its
splendid edifices to the ground; sparing from the
flames the church only, and a few lodgings for
monks." As soon as the kingdom was settled under
Bruce, this monastery was begun to be rebuilt; but
probably it never regained its former grandeur.
According to Lindsay of Pitscottie, the abbey and
its church were finally destroyed on the 28th of
March, 1560. The last abbot was George Dune, of
the family of Durie, of that ilk, who held the office
from 1530 till the destruction of the monastery. He
died in 1572.
The abbey was richly endowed, and derived part
of its extensive revenue from places at a consider-
able distance. Kirkcaldy, Kinghoni, Burntisland,
Musselburgh, and Inveresk belonged to it. Ac-
cording to a rental given up at the Reformation by
Allan Couts, in name of George Durie, the abbot,
the yearly revenue was as follows : — Money, £2,513
10s." 8d. Scots; wheat, 28 c. 11 b. 1 f.; bea"r, 102 c.
15 b. 1 f. 3 p.; meal, 15 c; oats, 61 c. 6 b. 2 f. ;
horse-corn, 29 c. 1 b. 1 f. 2 J p.; butter, 34 St.; lime,
19 c. 15 b.; salt, 11 c. 8 b. — According to another
rental by the same person: — Money, £2,404 4s.;
wheat, 27 c. 4 b. 3 f.; bear, 83 c. il b. 2 f. 2 p.;
oats, 158 c. 5 b. 2 f., whereof 84 c. white oats; lime,
20 c; salt, 11 c. 8 b.; capons, 374; poultry, 746.
Id 1560, Robert Pitcaira was appointed commenda-
tor of the abbey, thus obtaining a right to its lands
and rents, which he held till his death in 1584. The
Master of Gray succeeded him, but was extruded in
1587, when Henry Pitcairn succeeded him. In
1589, the abbey, with its lands and privileges, was
erected into a temporal lordship, which was con-
ferred upon Anne of Denmark, queen of James VI.
In 1593, Alexander Seton, who afterwards became
first Earl of Dunfermline, was appointed by Queen
Anne heritable bailie of her lordship of Dunferm-
line. Charles I. granted to Charles, second Earl of
Dunfermline, a lease for 57 years of the feu-duties
and rents of the lordship of Dunfermline, with the
office of heritable bailie of the regality ; which was
in 1665 assigned to John, Earl of Tweeddale, for a
debt due to him by the Earl of Dunfermline. In
1669, John, then Marquis of Tweeddale, had his
office of bailie, &e., vested in himself by royal char-
ter; and in 1693, obtained a prorogation of the lease
of the lordship, in his own name, for 57 years. In
1748, the office of heritable bailie was abolished
with other heritable jurisdictions in Scotland; but
the office of heritable keeper of the palace is still
retained by the Marquis of Tweeddale, who enjoys
the fees of constable, mayor, and Serjeant of the
lordship.
Although the ruins of the ancient abbey which
still remain, are sufficient to afford a glimpse of
what must have been its former grandeur, yet they
are but a trifling portion of the extensive conven-
tual buildings which must have existed here, even
subsequent to the demolition. The western portion,
or nave of the abbey church — which was originally
a cross church — is still in tolerably good preserva-
tion; and is a fine specimen of the architecture of
the age in which it was erected. It is generally
said to be in the Saxon style of architecture ; but
Mr. Leighton is inclined to think that the style is
Norman. The principal entrance to the abbey-
church is from the west, where there is a very finely
enriched door-way in the Norman style, and above
this a handsome pointed window, divided by mul-
lions and transoms. In the north side there is an-
other entrance from what is now thechurch-yard,
by a porch of later erection, which is in the pointed
style. The roof of the nave is supported by a dou-
ble row of splendid Norman pillars, from which
spring round arches to support the upper wall, and
at the west end by a clustered column on each side;
a clustered pilaster, from which springs a pointed
arch, also supporting the upper wall. These co-
lumns likewise separate the body of the nave from
the north and south aisles. The outside of the
building is ornamented by two heavy towers at the
west end, one of which is surmounted by a spire,
and the sides by heavy buttresses characteristic of
the style of the building. Immediately to the south
of the abbey-church are the ruins of the fratery or
refectory, which formed the dining-hall of the mo-
nastery. Its south wall, from the windows of which
there is a magnificent view, and the west gable, in
which there is one of the finest pointed windows in
Scotland, alone remain. The only other portion of
the monastic buildings existing is the gateway of
the monastery — now called the Pends — which exhi-
bits a fine specimen of the pointed style of architec-
ture. Mi'. Swan has given views of the Norman
porch, and of the Interior and Exterior of the old
Abbej'-church in his elegant work entitled ' Fife
Illustrated.'
The abbey-church was long the place of sepulture
of our Scottish kings. Here Malcolm Canmore and
his queen St. Margaret were interred, also their eld-
est son, Edward, who was killed in Jedwood forest.
Edmond their second son, and another named Eth-
elrade, who was Earl of Fife, King Edgar, Alexan-
der I. with Sibilla his queen, David I. with his two
wives, Malcolm IV., and Alexander III., with his
queen Margaret and his son Alexander, were also
here entombed. The great Brace, too, the saviour
of his country, was here laid at rest from his many
toils, with his queen Elizabeth, and his daughter
Christina, the widow of Sir Andrew Murray. The
remains of these distinguished individuals were all
interred in the choir, which forms the site of the
present parish church, and which — while the nave
continued to be kept in repair, in consequence of
being used as the parochial place of worship from
the Reformation till the year 1821 — was allowed to
pass into a state of total rain. The entombment of
Robert Bruce is described as follows by Barbour:
"They haift'had him to Dnnferryne,
And him solemnly yirded syne,
In a fair tomh into the quire;
Bishops and prelats that were there
Assoilzied him, when the service
"Was done, as they hest conld devise ;
And syne, upon the other day,
Sorry and wo they went their way.
And he debowelled was cleanly.
And also balmed syne fnll richly:
And the worthy Lord of Douglas,
His heart, as it forspoken was,
Received has in great dewtie.
With fair and great solemnitie. "
In digging for the foundation of the new pansn
church in February, 1818, the tomb of Robert Bruce
was discovered, and his skeleton found wrapt in
lead. On a subsequent day, the tomb was again
opened in presence of the barons of exchequer, seve-
ral literary gentlemen from Edinburgh, the magis-
trates of the town, and the neighbouring gentry.
A cast of the skull having been taken, the stone
coffin in which the remains lay was filled with
melted pitch ; it was then built over with mason-
work, and the pulpit of the new church now marks
the spot where all that remains on earth of the pa-
triotic warrior is deposited. Many of our great
nobles were also buried in this church ; among
whom may be mentioned, the great Macduff; Con-
stantine, Earl of Fife; William Ramsay, Earl of
DUNFERMLINE.
4G4
DUNFERMLINE.
Fife; the Earl and Countess of Athol, in the reign
of William the Lion ; Randolph, Earl of Moray,
the compatriot of Bruce; and Robert, Duke of Al-
bany, governor of Scotland. Many churchmen also
of great power and influence were interred here.
After the accession of Alexander, our Scottish
kings frequently resided on the south side of the
Forth, but they occasionally also resided at Dun-
fermline. When they gave up their residence in
the old tower is not known ; but at an early period
a palace or castle appears to have been erected
adjoining the monastery, and on the site of the pre-
sent ruins of the palace. James IV., after his acces-
sion to the Crown, was more here than any of his
immediate predecessors; and he appears to have
either entirely rebuilt or greatly enlarged the palace,
and added to its height, as in 1812 a stone was
found in the roof of one of the windows bearing the
date of 1500. James V., and his daughter Queen
Mary also resided here; and James VI., previous to
his departure for England, appears often to have
had his residence in the palace. In July, 1633,
this unfortunate monarch visited Dunfermline, where
he held a court, and created Sir Robert Ker of An-
erum, ancestor of the Marquis of Lothian, Earl of
Anerum, and dubbed five gentlemen knights. In
August, 1650, Charles II. remained several days in
the palace: and never again was this edifice graced
with the presence of royalty. From this time it
appears to have been entirely neglected ; and in
1 708, the roof fell in. It is now a complete ruin ;
all that remains being the south wall, and a sunk
vaulted apartment traditionally called the King's
kitchen. The length of the palace seems to have
been 150 feet, by 33 in breadth. The remaining
walls were several years ago repaired, and put into
a state in which they may still last for ages, by
James Hunt, Esq., the proprietor of the estate of
l'ittencrieff, adjoining which they are situated.
A mansion was built by Queen Anne, in 1600, in
the vicinity of the palace, for her own separate
residence. This came to be known as the Queen's
house, and was kept in good repair many years after
the palace went to ruin, but was entirely removed
in 1797. An ancient cross adorned the market
place, of similar ornamental character to the ancient
crosses of Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Peebles, and some
other burghs; but, according to the Vandal taste
with which such things were regarded in the course
of last century, it was removed in 1752. The cen-
tral pillar of it, about 8 feet high surmounted by a
lion rampant holding a shield, on which is a St.
Andrew's cross, is preserved in the corner of a house
in the vicinity of its site. The spire at the west
end of the old abbey church was built by James VI.
in 1568, and rises to a height of 156 feet from the base
of the tower. An adventurous youth recently made
a great sensation by climbing to the top of the spire,
and taking off its old rusted weathercock to be re-
paired.
The new abbey church, the present parish church,
is a splendid edifice, in light ornate Gothic style,
with elegant perpendicular windows; and it has,
near the east end, a fine square tower, 100 feet high.
Instead of a Gothic balustrade on the tower is an
open hewn work, in capital letters four feet high,
exhibiting on the four sides the words " King
Robert The Bruce," surmounted by royal crowns;
and at each corner there is a lofty pinnacle. This
device indicates that the structure is practically
a mausoleum over the ashes of the Bruce; but it is
of questionable taste in connexion with a church,
and certainly is utterly ultraneous to the style of the
architecture! — The Episcopalian chapel in Queen
Anne place, built in 1842, is a beautiful Gothic edi-
fice, with lancet windows. — Gillespie United Pres-
byterian church, built in 1849, is also a fine
Gothic structure. — St. Margaret's United Presby-
terian church, St. Andrew's quoad sacra parish
church, the North church at Golfdrum, the Free
churches, the Independent chapel, built in 1841, and
one of the other chapels, are all either handsome
edifices or respectable. But by much the most con-
spicuous of the ecclesiastical edifices, next to the
new abbey, though certainly a most gaunt and lump-
ish one, is Queen Anne street United Presbyterian
church. This was originally built for the celebrated
Ralph Erskine, who, while one of the parish minis-
ters of Dunfermline, declined the authority of the
General Assembly, and was expelled from his
charge, and became one of the founders of the As-
sociate presbytery, which gave rise to the various
bodies of Seceders. A stone statue of him, on a
pedestal, was recently erected in front of the church.
And the pulpit which he occupied in the old abbey,
previous to his expulsion from the Establishment,
exists in the transmuted form of two small side-
tables in the hall of Abbotsford. The principal
school buildings, particularly those of the burgh,
the free abbey, and the Maclean schools, are good
modem structures. The guildhall is an elegant
edifice, with a fine spire. A poors' house and a
new prison were erected some years ago in the
Town green, on the east side of the burgh.
At the beginning of the 17th century, Dunferm-
line was little else than a rural village, with about
1,000 inhabitants; and even at the beginning of the
18th, it continued to be almost without trade. It is
now the seat and centre of a great manufacture in
table linens and in kindred fabrics. This manufac-
ture is the only one of the kind in Scotland; and it
began at Dunfermline slowly and steadily, upwards
of a century ago, and has ever since been a source
of much wealth to the town, and of subsistence to
man}' of the inhabitants. In 1740, textile manufac-
tures were sufficiently introduced to give rise to an
association of weavers; and yet even five years after-
wards, they were not remunerating enough to enablu
the town to pav without difficulty a contribution of
£80 levied by Prince Charles. About 1749, the British
Linen company — then just established — began to
employ a number of looms in the town for weaving
table-linen; but the weavers wrought chiefly at
ticks and checks during the winter, and only in the
summer at table-linen. About 1763, the table-linen
of Dunfermline first found its way to the London
market. From that period the manufactures and
wealth of the town began more rapidly to increase.
Improvements have been made on the mechanism
of the looms, great skill and taste displayed in the
devices in the cloth, and a variety of other manufac-
tures introduced. The weaving trade, besides em-
ploying a large proportion of the town's own popu-
lation, supports looms in the parishes of Torryburn,
Carnock, Culross, and Inverkeithing, and even in
Kinross, Leslie, Strathmiglo, and Auchtermuchty.
In 1836, the amount of capital employed in it was
£826,261, the number of looms engaged in it was
3,517, the number of these looms within the parish
of Dunfermline was 2,794, the number of warpers,
winders, and other coadjutors of the weavers was
1,527, the average weekly wages of the weavers
was 10s., the average weekly wages of the coad-
jutors of the weavers varied from 4s. to 18s., and
the proportions of the 3,517 looms employed upon
the different fabrics were as follow, — 770 on singly
diaper, 1,880 on single damask, 369 on double da-
mask, 445 on table-covers, 13 on worsted warps, 15
on full harness linens, and 17 on bed quilts. These
statistics were obtained by a committee of manufa--
DUNFERMLINE.
4(55
DUNFERMLINE.
hirers, in circumstances peculiarly fitted to sucuro
the nearest possible approximation to accuracy.
But the increase in the number of looms in tho very
next year was 183; and now extensive weaving
factories have been established, and great improve-
ments in fabrics and designs have been made.
The spinning of linen yarn was commenced, in
1792, in a mill in Brucefield, about J a mile south-
west of the town; and it was afterwards increased
in the parish by the erection of six other mills.
Tho yarns spun are of various qualities from tow
and flax, and are used in the manufacture of the
several kinds of fabrics woven in the town. Only
one of the spinning-mills now exists. But there are
at present, in or near the town, two steam weaving
factories, several hand-loom weaving factories, three
bleachfields, a soap work, a tannery, three rope
works, four dye works, an extensive malleable iron
work, two iron foundries, two tobacco manufactories,
three breweries, and two flour mills. A weekly
market is held on Tuesday for the sale of grain
by sample, which is well attended by the agri-
culturists of the surrounding country. Fairs for
the sale of horses and cattle, and a few other pur-
poses, are held on the third Tuesday of January,
March, April, June, July, September, October, and
November. The town has offices of the Bank of
Scotland, the British Linen Company's Bank, the
Commercial Bank, and the National It has also a
national security savings' bank, and offices of thirty-
three insurance companies. The principal inns are
the Koyal, the Commercial, the George, the Tem-
perance, Brown's, Brace's, and Milne's. The pub-
lic conveyances are railway trains to the east and
to the west, coaches to Edinburgh by Inverkeith-
ing and Queen sferry, and omnibuses to the steamers
at Charleston.
Dunfermline was constituted a royal burgh in
1588 by James VI. It is governed by a provost, 2
bailies, a guild-magistrate, a treasurer, 17 other
councillors, and a town-clerk. The provost and
magistrates have the jurisdiction within the royalty
as extended by the police act in 1811. They hold
regular courts, the town-clerk acting as their as-
sessor. There is a guildry, the dean of which lias
the power of judging in all questions of boundary of
property, &c. This incorporation possesses property
to the annual value of £350 per annum. There are
eight incorporated trades, — wrights, tailors, smiths,
weavers, shoemakers, bakers, masons, and fleshers.
In 1811 a police act was obtained, which not only
regulates the police of the town, but contains powers
for paving, lighting, and cleaning the streets, for
removing nuisances and obstructions, for opening
new streets and widening the present ones, and
likewise for increasing the supply of water. The
provisions of this act were at the same time ex-
tended over the suburbs of the town, with the ex-
ception of that of Pittencrieff. The town was in
consequence divided into wards, by each of which
commissioners are appointed for carrying the pro-
visions of the act into effect, and by whom the su-
perintendent of police and other necessary officers
are appointed. The necessary funds are raised by
an assessment on the inhabitants. This act has
produced great improvements in the town. — The
present land property of the burgh consists of the
farms of Highholm, Muircockhall, Eilliehill, Cairn-
cubbie, and part of the town's moor, with the coal
under them, which for a number of years has been
worked. These lands comprehend about 700 Scots
acres, 180 of which are planted. The burgh like-
wise possesses 3 or 4 acres of land, known by the
name of Hilliblade acres. The house-property of
the burgh consists of the workmen's houses at the
town-colliery, the flesh-market, slaughter-house, and
washing-house, tho town-house, the high school,
and the charity-school in Priory-lane. The burgh
is likewise possessed of a number of seats in the
parish-church. The whole value of the land pro-
perty of the burgh taking the rental at 30 years'
purchase, in consideration of the value of the min-
erals, and the value put on the wood and houses by
a professional man, is stated to be £19,501 5s. lOJd.
The town-house, high school, and Priory-lane
school, are estimated at £2,150. The only aliena-
tion of the burgh's real property of any consequence,
within the last 50 years, was part of the lands lying
immediately south of those still belonging to the
burgh, which were sold to Mr. Downie of Appin, in
1829, for the price of £14,105. The debt of the
burgh at present is about £8,000. The annual
revenue was estimated in 1834 at £870; and the ex-
penditure at £731 12s. The present revenue is
about £1,000. In 1850, a new water company was
formed, and water-works were constructed at the
cost of £20,000. In October, 1829, the town was
lighted with gas.
A sheriff-substitute for the western district of
Fifeshire resides at Dunfermline. Sheriff ordinary
courts, also sheriff small-debt courts, are held on
every Friday during session. Quarter session
sheriff small-debt courts likewise are held on the
first Friday of each month during vacation. A
justice of peace court also is held once a-month.
Dunfermline unites with Inverkeithing, Culross,
South Queensferry, and Stirling in sending a mem-
ber to parliament. Constituency in 1840, 550; in
1865, 488. The town has two halls for public
meetings, a reading-room in the guild hall, a sub-
scription library, a united tradesmen and mechanics'
library, a working men's refreshment and reading
rooms, a mechanics' institution, two horticultural
societies, an agricultural society, an ornithological
society, three total abstinence societies, two bowl-
ing-green clubs, a coursing club, a curling club, a
number of benefit associations, a poors' house, and
several charitable societies, a number of mason-
lodges, and a mothers' institution.
Dunfermline owed its origin to the neighbourhood
of the abbey and the palace, and was for a long time
a burgh of regality holding of the monks. In 1303,
while Edward I. of England was residing here, he
was joined by his queen and some of his nobles, and
received the submission of many Scottish barons
who had held out against him during his progress
through the kingdom in 1296. In 1323, the son of
King Robert Brace was bom here who, after a long
minority, ascended the throne under the name of
David II. In 1385, Richard II. of England and his
lords, says Froissart, " went to Dunfermline, a toler-
ably handsome town, where is a large and fair
abbey of Black monks, in which the kings of
Scotland have been accustomed to be buried. The
King was lodged in the abbey ; but after his depar-
ture, the army seized it and burned both that and
the town." In 1581, James VI. and all his house-
hold subscribed at Dunfermline the first national
covenant of Scotland. In 1596, a convention of the
Estates was held here for recalling the popish lords
who had been banished for a conspiracy. In that
year also was bom here James VI. 's eldest daughter,
Elizabeth, who became Queen of Bohemia. In
1600, Charles I. was born here. In 1624, the town
was almost totally destroyed by fire, and the in-
habitants were suddenly reduced to such poverty as
obliged them to supplicate public aid from the king-
dom. In 1643, the parishioners of Dunfermline
swore and subscribed the solemn league and cov-
enant; and in 1650, Charles II. subscribed here a
2 G
DUNGEON.
466
DUNGLASS.
remarkable document, known in history as the Dun-
fermline Declaration, confirmatory of an oath he
had formerly taken to adhere to the covenants. In
1 715, about a month before the battle of Sheriffmuir,
a Jacobite detachment was surprised at Dun-
fermline.
DUNFILLAN. See Fillan (St.).
DUNFION. See Drhuim (The).
DUNGAVEL. See Wiston.
DUNGEON (Loch), a fresh water lake of | of a
mile in length, in the north of the parish of Kells,
and 8 miles north-west of New Galloway, Kirkcud-
brightshire. It abounds in trout. Its superfluence
goes off in a streamlet 5J miles eastward to the Ken.
DUNGLASS, a post-ofiice station and the ruins
of an old castle, in the parish of Old Kilpatrick,
Dumbartonshire. The ruins are perched upon a
small rocky promontory, almost encircled by the
Clyde, about a mile below Bowling bay, and 2J miles
east-south-east of Dumbarton. Several small vil-
lages, and a sprinkling of villas, are in the vicinity.
The promontory was anciently a Roman station,
and is believed by some antiquaries to be the point
at which Antoninus' Wall terminated. The castle
was the messuage of the barony of Colquhoun, which
extended hence to Dumbarton ; and the descendent
of the residents in it is Sir James Colquhoun of Luss.
On a conspicuous part of the rock stands an obelisk,
to the memory of Henry Bell, the father of steam
navigation.
DUNGLASS, the elegant modern seat of Sir John
Hall, Bart., on the south-east verge of Haddington-
shire. It stands on the left side of a romantic
rivulet, of about 4| miles in length of course, which
forms the boundary between Haddingtonshire and
Berwickshire, along a deep, gorgy, wooded dean to
the sea. The mansion is nearly a mile from the
shore; and the North British railway bestrides the
dean below it, on one of the most magnificent via-
ducts in the kingdom. " This work consists of six
arches — that which spans the dean measuring 124^
feet in height, from the bed of the stream, 135 feet
span, and 45 of rise in the arch. Of the five re-
maining arches, three are in Haddingtonshire and
two in Berwickshire. The viaduct is an object of
great architectural beauty, and leaves the far-famed
Pease bridge in its immediate vicinity no longer an
object of solitary wonder. The scenic effect is in
this instance enhanced by the presence also of two
other bridges over Dunglass dean, on the old and
and new road, and the picturesque accessories of
wood and water. The prospect from the viaduct
and embankment is beautiful and extensive, em-
bracing on the right the green lawns and woods,
the romantic dean and church-ruins at Dunglass,
with the mansion-house tower seen above the tree-
tops; and on the right 'the sea, the sea, the open
sea,' St. Abb's head, and the animated sight of
many a white sail shimmering in the sun." At
the mouth of the dean is an ancient encampment in
the form of an isosceles triangle.
The site of Dunglass mansion and its offices was
anciently occupied by a small town and a strong
castle, both of the name of Dunglass, and both now
extinct. On the 16th of August, 1544, the English
garrison of Berwick made an inroad into Scotland,
and " burned and spoiled the town of Dunglass very
sore." The fortress was originally one of the many
strongholds of the Earls of Home. After the at-
tainder of Lord Home in 1516, it appears occasion-
ally to have been held by the Douglases ; for, accord-
ing to Patten, it was held by George Douglas, in
1548. Patten relates, that while Somerset's army
was passing the Pease, "my lord's grace, willing
to lose no time, and that the enemies as well by
deed as by bruit should know he was come, sent
an herald to summon a castle of George Douglas,
called Dunglas, that stood at the end of the same
valley nearer the sea, and a mile from the place of
our passage. The captain thereof, Matthew Hume,
a brother's son of the Lord Hume's, upon this sum-
mons, required to speak with my lord's grace. It
was granted, and he came. To whom, quoth his
grace, since it cannot be but that ye must be witting
both of our coming into these parts, and of our pro-
clamation sent hither before, and proclaimed also
since, and ye have not yet come to us, but keep this
holde thus, we have cause to take you as our mere
enemy. And, therefore, be ye at this choice — for
we will take none advantage of your being here now
— whether ye and your company will render your
holde and stande, body and goods, at the order of
our will, or else to be set in it again as ye were, and
we will assay to win it as we can. The captain,
being about this riddle brought in great doubt what
answer well to make, and whether best to do, at last
strucken with the fear of cruelty that by stubborn-
ness he should well deserve, and moved again with
the hope of mercy that by submission he might hap
to have, was content to render all at his grace's plea-
sure, and thereupon, commanded to fetch his com-
pany, returned to the castle. In the time of tarrying
for fetching his guard, we saw our ships, with good
gale and order, fair sailing into their firtb, whicb is
a great arm of the sea, and runneth westward into
their country above iiii. score mile. Upon this stand-
eth Leith, Blackness, Stirling, and St. Jho's road,
and all the best towns else in the south part of Scot-
land. This captain came and brought with him his
band to my lord's grace, which was of xxi. sober sol-
diers, all so apparelled and appointed, that, so God
help me — I will say it for no praise — I never saw
such a bunch of beggars come out of one house to-
gether in my life! The captain and vi. of the wor-
shipful of the company were stayed and commanded
to the keeping of the provost-marshal, more to take
Munday's handsell, then for hope of avantage; the
residue were licensed to go their gate with this
lesson, that if they were ever known to practise
or do ought against the army, while it was in the
country, and thereupon taken, they should be sure
to be hanged. After this surrender, my Lord John
Gray, being captain of a number — as for his ap-
proved worthiness right well he might — was ap-
pointed to seize and take possession of the manor,
with all and singular the appurtenances, in and to
the same belonging, with whom, as it hapt, it was
my chance to go thither. The spoil was not rich
sure ; but of white bread, oaten cakes, and Scottish
ale, whereof was indifferent good store, and soon
bestowed among my lord's soldiers accordingly. As
for swords, bucklers, pikes, pots, pans, yarn, linen,
hemp, and heaps of such baggage beside, were scant
stoopt for, and very liberally let alone; but yet sure
it would have rued any good housewife's heart, to
have beholden the great unmerciful murder that our
men made of the brood-geese and good laying-hens
that were slain there that day, which the wives of
the town had pend up in holes in the stables and
cellars of the castle, ere we came. In this meantime,
my lord's grace appointed the house should be over
thrown; whereupon the captain of the pioneers,
with a iiiiC. of his labourers, were sent down to
it, whom he straight set a-digging about the foun-
dation. In the town of Dunglas — the which we left
unspoiled and unburned — we understood of the
wives, (for their husbands were not at home,) that
it was George Douglas's devise and cost to cast these
cross trenches at the Peaths, and stood him in iiii.
Scottish L., which is as much sterling as iiii. good
DUNGLASS.
■ir.7
DUNIPACE.
English crowns of V.s. a piece; a mete reward
for such a work." Next clay, Patten continues,
" Our pioneers were early at their work again about
the castle, whose walls were so thick, and founda-
tion so deep, and there too set upon so craggy a plot,
that it was not any easy matter soon to underdig
them; our army dislodged and march on."
After the destruction of Dunglass thus recorded,
it was rebuilt, and probably much enlarged; for, in
1603, it was sufficient to lodge James VI. and his
whole retinue when on his journey to London; and,
on his return, in 1617, he was welcomed by the
' Muses Dunglasides.1 In 1640, the Earl of Had-
dington, and several of the neighbouring gentlemen
who had joined the Covenanters, took possession of
Dunglass castle, for the purpose of watching the
garrison of Berwick. His lordship, having received
a letter from General Leslie, was standing in the
court-yard reading it to the company, when the
powder-magazine blew up, and one of the side-walls
in its fall overwhelmed his lordship and his auditors,
who all perished in the ruins. Scotstarvet states,
that a report prevailed that the deed was effected by
a faithless page, who, in revenge of some real or
imaginary insult, thrust a hot iron into a barrel of
gunpowder, and perished with the rest.
DUNGLASS, a bare desolate height, 400 feet in
elevation, terminating the east end of the valley of
Strathblane, in Stirlingshire.
DUNGOIACH, a hill in the north-west of the
parish of Strathblane, Stirlingshire. It lifts up from
the valley a fine cone, to the height of 400 feet,
clothed to the summit with wood ; and contrasts
very strikingly to Dunglass.
DUNGYLE, a green hill, anciently crowned with
a strong British fort, in the south of the parish of
Kelton, Kirkcudbrightshire.
DUNGYLE, or Dunagoii.. See Dunagoil Bat.
DUNHAKDUIL. See Dundornadil.
DUNIAN, a spreading, lumpish, lofty hill, in the
parishes of Bedrule and Jedburgh, Roxburghshire.
Its summit, excepting at one place a cap or nobule
of very inconsiderable elevation, is a round-backed
and prolonged ridge, stretching chiefly along the
boundary of the parishes, and partly into the inte-
rior of Jedburgh. At its highest point, which is
■within Bedrule, it has an elevation of 1,031 feet
above the level of the sea; and very nearly at this
point it is traversed by the high road between Jed-
burgh and Hawick. But the hill slopes on both
sides in a very gentle acclivity, and bestrides the
whole space between the Jed and the Teviot, — a
geographical distance of nearly 3 miles, thus allow-
ing the highway to climb it with comparative faci-
lity. On its eastern base, rising somewhat rapidly
from the Jed, stands the chief part of the town of
Jedburgh. The name Dunian signifies ' the hill of
John.' The top of the hill commands an exten-
sive prospect, replete with fine features of the pic-
turesque, and comprising many spots which are
either famous in song or memorable in history.
" Near, and eastward below, the spectator views, as
it were in a basin, the town of Jedburgh, distin-
guished by the venerable ruins of its abbey. At a
greater distance, to the north-west, and on the op-
posite side of the Teviot, as in an amphitheatre
opening to the south, the eye is struck with the
plain yet elegant modem house of Minto, distin-
guished as the birthplace of many eminent patriots,
statesmen, and legislators. To the south-east, and
at a still farther distance, appears the house of
Edgerston, distinguished for the fidelity, prowess,
and loyalty of its inhabitants. Westwards are seen
the beautiful windings of the wooded Rule, where it
issues in three streams from the lofty mountains,
the Not o' the gate, Fana, and Windhurgh, to where
its rapidly rolling flood mixes with the Teviot oppo-
site to the castle of Fatlips, on the Minto crags."
DUNINO, or Denino, a parish in the cast of Fife-
shire. It is bounded by Cameron, St. Andrews,
Kingsbams, Crail, and Cambce. Several post-of-
fices are near it; but that of St. Andrews, 4 miles
north-north west of the church, is the most conve-
nient. The estate of Kingsmuir on the south, the
estate of Bonnyton on the north, and the farm of
Brigton on the west, belonged formerly to Dunino,
but do not belong to it now; and the first of these
was included in its population-returns so late as
1841, but was included in those of Crail in 1851.
Dunino at present measures about 3 miles in ex-
treme length and breadth, and about 2,431 Scotch
acres in area. The north-east boundary of the pa-
rish extends within 1 J mile of the sea. The surface
of most of the interior is pleasantly diversified with
undulation, wood, cultivation, and the course of lit-
tle streams. The highest ground is in the north,
and rises scarcely 300 feet above the level of the
sea. The largest stream is Pitmilly burn, which
comes in from Cameron, flows eastward through the
interior, passes on to the sea between St. Andrews
and Kingsbarns, and has altogether from source to
embouchure a run of about 7 miles. About 270
acres of Dunino are under wood. Coal seems, from
the vast number of old pits in various places, to
have at one time been a very plentiful article in
this parish; but it is not now worked. Sandstone
of excellent quality is abundant, but has not been
much quarried. Ironstone occurs. The principal
properties in the parish are Dunino, Stravithy, Pit-
tairthy, and Kinaldy. The real rental is about
£3,000. Assessed property in 1865, £4,305 5s. 3d.
There is an old fortalice on the estate of Pittairthy ;
and there formerly were two others in the parish.
Three stones contiguous to the manse-garden are
supposed to have been part of a Druidical circle.
The parish is traversed by the road from St. An-
drews to Anstruther. Population in 1831, 383; in
1861, 370. Houses, 70. — This parish is in the pres-
bytery of St. Andrews, and synod of Fife. Patron,
the united college of St. Andrews. Stipend, £198
16s.; glebe, £28. Unappropriated teinds, £33 15s.
lOd. Church built in 1826; sittings, 224. School-
master's salary, £40, with £34 4s. 6d. to retired
schoolmaster.
DUNIPACE, a parish, containing the villages of
Toi wood and Milton or Herbertshire, in the east of
Stirlingshire. It is bounded by the parishes of St.
Ninians, Larbert, Falkirk, and. Denny. Its post-
town is either Denny, contiguous to its southern
border, or Falkirk, 2J miles east of its south-eastern
extremity. Its length, east-south-eastward, is about
5J miles; and its greatest breadth is less than 3
miles. All its southern boundary is traced by the
river Carron. Its eastern district is part of the carse
of Stirling; and its western district rises to an alti-
tude of about 600 feet above the level of the Forth.
About two-thirds of its surface are incumbent on
sandstone, and about one-third on trap rocks. If
the entire area be reckoned at 46 parts, 38 of
them are variously arable, 5 are under wood, and 3
are either moss, moor, or rock. There are about 30
landowners; but the principal estates are Denovan,
Dunipace, Quarter, Torwood-head, and Herbert-
shire. Torwood Castle is an old ruin, of obscure
history, surrounded by some remains of a famous
wood where William Wallace found shelter after his
defeat in the north, and where Donald Cargill ex-
communicated Charles II., and which was originally
a part of the Caledonian forest. Herbertshire is an
ancient mansion, once the property of the St. Clairs
DUNIPACE.
468
DUNKELD.
of Orkney, on a beautiful site on the Canon. Car-
brook-house is romantically situated, among pic-
turesquely "wooded grounds, within half-a-mile of
Torwood. Dunipace-house, and Quarter-house, are
elegant modern mansions. There are, respectively
at Denovan and Herbertshire, two extensive print-
works. There are also in the parish two flax-mills,
one woollen spinning mill, one mill for grinding
eharced wood, and three grain mills. There are also
four sandstone quarries. Facility of communica-
tion is enjoyed by the Stirling and Glasgow turn-
pike through the centre of the parish, and by the
Scottish Central railway on the east. The real
rental of the parish is upwards of £6,000. Assessed
property in 1860, £12,111 0s. Population in 1831,
1,278; in 1861, 1,731. Houses, 209.
The name Dunipace is believed to have arisen
from two remarkable mounds in the eastern part
of the parish. " The whole structure of these
mounts," says Mr. Nimmo, in his ' History of Stir-
lingshire,' "is of earth; but they are not both of
the same form and dimensions. The more easterly
one is perfectly round, resembling an oven, and
about 50 feet in height. That it is an artificial work
does not admit of the least doubt; but the same
thing cannot be affirmed with equal certainty of
the other, though it has generally been supposed to
be so too. It bears no resemblance to the eastern
one either in shape or size. At the foundation it
is nearly of a triangular form; but the superstructure
is quite irregular; nor does the height of it bear any
proportion to the extent of the base. Buchanan calls
the western mount the smaller; but his memory had
quite failed him, for there are at least four times the
quantity of earth in it that is in the other. Neither
can we discern any appearance of the river's having
ever come so near as to wash away any part of it,
as that historian affirms ; though it is not improbable
that considerable encroachments have been made
upon it, which have greatly altered its original
shape, as it affords an excellent kind of gravel for
different uses. The mounts are now planted with
firs, which, together with the parish - church of
Dunipace, standing in the middle between them and
the river running hard by, gives this valley a ro-
mantic appearance. The common account given of
these mounts is, that they were erected as monu-
ments of a peace concluded in that place betwixt
the Romans and the Caledonians, and that their
name partakes of the language of both people,
Dim, signifying 'hill,' in the ancient language of the
country, and Pax ' peace,' in the langnage of Eome,
the compound word Duni-pace, according to this
etymology, signifies ' hills of peace.' If the con-
curring testimony of historians and antiquaries did
not unite in giving this original to these mounts,
we should be tempted to conjecture that they are
sepulchral monuments. Human bones and urns had
been discovered in earthen fabrics of a similar con-
struction in many parts of the island; and the little
mounts or banows which are scattered in great num-
bers around Stonehenge, in Salisbury plain, are gen-
erally supposed to have been sepulchres of the an-
cient Britons." This conjecture of Mr. Nimmo is
supported by his editor Mr. Stirling, who rejects the
mongrel etymology of Buchanan, and states it as
more probable that the word Dunipace is entirely
Celtic in its origin, — a corruption of Duin-na-Bais,
which signifies 'hills or tumuli of death.' "Duni-
Eace," continues Mr. Nimmo, "is taken notice of in
istory as a place where important national causes
have been decided, and that more than once, by
great monarchs in person. The Roman Emperor
Severus, accompanied by his sons Caracalla and
Ueta, is supposed to have here concluded a peace
with the Caledonians. We find Edward I. of Eng-
land, at Dunipace, upon the 14th of October, 1301,
when he signed a warrant to his plenipotentiaries,
who were at that time in France, authorizing them
to consent to a truce with the Scots, as a necessary
preliminary towards a peace with their ally, the
French king, between whom and Edward an obsti-
nate war had long raged. At the chapel of this
place, too, Robert Bruce and William Wallace are
said to have had a second conference, the morning
after the battle of Falkirk, which effectually opened
the eyes of the former, to a just view of his own true
interest, and that of his country. Until the bridge
of Larbert was erected in the last century, the or-
dinary place of crossing the Carron seems to have
been at Dunipace. No where else does the river
offer a passage naturally so commodious and easy,
the banks being generally steep and rugged. The
numerous armies which frequently crossed this shire,
appear to have taken their route that way, at least
since the demolition of a Roman bridge which stood
half-a-mile to the eastward." There were recently
discovered, on the southern border of the parish,
near Denny, some finely preserved Roman utensils,
— one of them of an unique kind ; and after a search,
suggested by that discovery, there were discovered
also, in a neighbouring wood, distinct vestiges of a
previously unnoted Roman camp.
This parish is in the presbytery of Stirling, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. It was anciently a
chapelry of Cambuskenneth, and did not acquire
parochial status till the Reformation. It was
united, in 1624, on equal terms, to Larbert; but
was, in course of time, depressed to secondary rank.
Now, however, service is regularly performed in the
church alternately by the parish minister and an
assistant, who is paid by the heritors. The old
church, as indicated by our extract from Mr. Nimmo,
stood at the hills of "Dunipace ; and the parochial
burying-ground continues there. The new church
stands on a knoll 1 J mile to the west. It was built
in 1834, at the cost of £2,500; and is a Gothic edi-
fice, with 604 sittings. The Free church has an
attendance of about 100, and realized in 1865, £87
16s. There are a parochial school near the centre
of the parish, and a private school at Torwood.
Parochial schoolmaster's salary, £40 0s. 0d., with
DUNIPHAIL. See Dunphail.
DUNIQUOICH. See Inverary.
DUNIRA. See Comrie and Stratheakn.
DUNKELD, a small district, of the character ot
a parish, containing a small post-town of its own
name, the representative of an ancient city, in the
Strathtay division of Perthshire. It lies on the left
bank of the Tay, 15 miles north-north-west of Perth,
and is nearly surrounded by the parish of Caputh.
It comprises all the site of the ancient city of Dun-
keld, and as much of the parish of Caputh as is
built upon by part of the modern town. The
boundary between its two parts is the small burn
Ketlochy, which runs through the town in the man-
ner of a common sewer. The city part was an-
ciently the precinct of the cathedral, and was never
either constituted into a parish itself or included in
any other parish; and, in consequence of the old
city having been almostly utterly destroyed by the
Jacobites in 1689, and of the modern town having
been built next year on different ground, that part
is ill defined. The part belonging to Caputh was
never formally annexed to Dnnkeld, and can be in-
cluded in it at best only quoad sacra, yet in recent
usage has been assigned to it both in the returns of
the census and in some political arrangements. The
entire district has a somewhat semicircular form.
DUNKELD.
4(3!)
DUNKELD.
about lj niilo in circumference, and about § of a
mile in diameter. It seems to have been treated as
a quasi-pavish ever since tbe cessation of tbe cathe-
dral services; but it has long been united also to
the parish of Dowally; and the joint charge bears
the name of Dunkeld and Dowally. See the article
Dowally. Assessed property of Dunkeld and
Dowally in 186/;, £3,1-18 13s. 9d. Population of
Dunkeld ami Dowally in 1831,2,037; in 1861, 971.
Houses, 155. Population of Dunkeld alone in 1831,
1,471; in 1861,929.
Dunkeld is the bottom of a small, romantic, high-
rimmed basin. It lies only 130 feet above tbe level
of tbe sea, yet forms almost literally, and very
grandly, the mouth of the Strathtay highlands.
The south-west side of it is denned by the Tay,
just at the point of that noble river's debouch from
the convergent denies of Athole and the Bran; and
tbe other sides are all closed by abrupt, lofty, wooded
hills, of varied form and picturesque character. The
chief features of the tract itself are the town
of Dunkeld and the home-grounds of Dunkeld
park, — both of which will be afterwards described;
but those of the enclosing hills, and of the im-
mediately circumjacent country, are so many, so
rich, so diversified as to constitute a museum of
landscape, containing specimens of almost everything
which is most admired in the Highlands, together
with Mendings into one of the most brilliant mar-
gins of the Lowlands. All tbe environs of the town
are pleasure-grounds. The hill on the east, called
Newtyle, commands a magnificent view of Stormont
and Strathmore. The hills on the north, besides
containing gorgeous close scenes of their own, re-
veal some ravishing views of Strathtay.
The poet Gray, who visited Dunkeld in 1766, says
— describing tbe approach to it, — " The road came
to the brow of a deep descent; and between two
woods of oak we saw, far below us, the Tay come
sweeping along at the bottom of a precipice at least
150 feet deep, clear as glass, full to the brim, and
very rapid in its course. It seemed to issue out of
woods thick and tall that rose on either hand, and
were overhung by broken rocky crags of vast height.
Above them, to the west, the tops of higher moun-
tains appeared, on which the evening clouds reposed.
Down by the side of the river, under the thickest
shades, is seated the town of Dunkeld. In the
midst of it stands a ruined cathedral ; the tower and
shell of the building still entire. A little beyond it a
large bouse of the Duke of Athole, with its offices
and gardens, extends a mile beyond the town ; and as
his grounds are intersected by the streets and roads,
he has flung arches of communication across them,
that add much to the scenery of the place." Mr.
Gilpin says: " This favoured spot — for it is indeed
a beautiful scene — consists of a large circular valley,
the diameter of which is in some parts a mile; in
others two or three. Its surface is various; and
some of tbe rising grounds within the valley itself
would even be esteemed lofty, if it were not for the
grand screen of mountains, which circles the whole.
At the base of those, towards the south, runs the
Tay, in this place broad, deep, and silent. The
whole valley is interspersed with wood, both on the
banks of the river and in its internal parts ; and
would have been a still more beautiful scene, if art
bad done as much as nature."
This district is tbe seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, and sole
heritor, the Duke of Athole. Stipend, £161 7s. 7 Jd.,
with £63 per annum in lieu of manse and glebe.
Tbe established church of the district, or quasi-
parish church, is the choir of the cathedral, refitted
nnd repaired in 1820, at an expense of about £5,400,
— of which £990 was granted by the Exchequer,
and all the rest was defrayed by the Duke of Athole.
Sittings, 655. There are a Free church, with an
attendance of about 400, — an Episcopalian chapel,
with an attendance of about 70, — and an Independent
chapel, containing about 320 sittings. 'J'no sum
raised by the Free church in 1865 was £187 2s. 6d.
The principal school is the royal grammar school,
founded in 1567, by James VI., affording a range of
education similar to that in the best schools of
Edinburgh, and attended on tbe average by about
60 pupils. The rector of it has an official residence,
and, besides receiving a small salary from the ori-
ginal endowment, is superior of the lands of Muck-
larie. There are likewise three female schools, two
public libraries, — the Mackintosh and the Evange
lical — several friendly societies, and a fund of St.
George's hospital for 7 old or infirm men.
The Town of Dunkeld stands contiguous to the
Tay, at the intersection of the road from Amulree to
Blairgowrie with the road from Perth to Inverness,
10 miles north-east of Amulree, 12 west-south-west
of Blairgowrie, and 15 north-north-west of Perth.
The Tay is crossed here by a magnificent bridge,
of which the middle arch is 90 feet wide, the two
next 84 feet each, and the two next 74 feet each ;
with 2 land-arches, each 20 feet wide. Total water-
way 446 feet. This bridge was built, in 1807-9, at
an expense of £30,000, of which £25,000 were contri-
buted by the Duke of Athole. The town consists
of two streets, the one leading from the bridge, and
the other at right angles to it, with back lanes pro-
ceeding from both. The street leading from the
bridge was commenced about 1 809, as a kind of new
town more elegant than the old, and adapted to a
new transit, by way of the bridge, of the great road
from Perth to Inverness. The street at right angles
with this comprises the main body of the old town,
as reconstructed in 1690. A view of the whole town,
full and picturesque, with the cathedral at its head,
the wooded hills around it, and the broad Tay glid-
ing majestically past it, is obtained from the centre
of the bridge.
The cathedral is an object of great interest. It
stands at the upper end of the old street, slightly
apart from the town, and overlooking the river.
The choir, as already noticed, is a restoration of
1820, serving as the present quasi-parochial church;
but the style of it is in keeping with tbe original
model. The parts of the old edifice which remain
are the grand tower, the two side-aisles, and the
nave; and these, notwithstanding unroofment and
considerable dilapidation, still constitute a fine mass
of architecture. " At the west end," say the Messrs.
Anderson, " rises the buttressed tower, 90 feet in
height, and 24 feet square, and adjoining it a small
octagonal watch-tower. Buttresses project between
the windows, surmounted above the church by
traceried spiracles. The great aisle measures 120
by 60 feet; the walls are 40 feet high, and the side
aisles 12 feet wide. On each side are seven spacious
Gothic arches, with fluted soffits, resting on six plain
Norman-like pillars, having shafts 10 feet high, and
4J in diameter, and two half-columns. Over tbe
arches there are two tiers of windows, the lower
semicircular, the higher acute. The windows of
the side-aisles are all of different designs, and chiefly
of the decorated or middle-pointed Gothic ; and it is
interesting and historically curious to mark, as
observed by Mr. Billings, 'even in this distant
mountainous see, traces of the Flamboyant char-
acter of the French Gothic artists.' He considers
it probable that there was no part of tbe building
erected before 1230. There is the tomb and statue
of a bishop in his robes under a crocketed canopy
DUNKELD.
470
DUNKELD.
believed to be tbose of Bisbop Robert Cardeny, who
founded the nave, where he lies, in 1406. The new
church is handsomely fitted up. In the spacious
vestry, at the east end, is the gigantic stone effigy,
arranged in panoply of mail, which formerly, in the
old church of this place, surmounted the grave of
the notorious Earl of Buchan, ' Wolf of Badenoch,'
the natural son of Robert II., who burnt the cathe-
dral of Elgin." In the chapter-house is a fine
marble statue of the fourth Duke of Athole, erected
in 1833 by his Duchess. The vault of the chapter-
house is now the burying place of the Athole family.
The aboriginal of the cathedral was a Culdean
wattle structure, formed about the year 570. This
was superseded, in 729, by a stone edifice, which, in
due time, became a Popish monastery. In 848, Ken-
neth Macalpine built a church in Dunkeld, to the
memory of St. Columba, and is said to have trans-
ferred to it the bones of that father of Cnldeeism
from Iona. In 1127, David I. converted the monas-
tery, together with the church, into the seat of a
bishopric. In 1318, Bishop Sinclair built the original
choir of the cathedral on part of the site of the
monastery; in 1406, Bishop Cardeny founded the
nave, which he raised only as far as the second row
of arches; in 1447, Bishop Ralston finished the
nave; and in 1469, Bishop Lauder built the chapteT'-
house and the great tower. The cathedral was de-
stroyed, in 1560, by the ecclesiocasts of the Refor-
mation. The episcopal palace stood a little to the
south-west of it. This was originally a suite of long
thatched two-storey houses; and in 1408, in con-
sequence of great annoyances from the Highland
caterans, it was increased and fortified by the
erection of a strong castle, — the site of which, though
now containing no vestige of the edifice itself, still
bears the name of the Castle close. There were
two ancient chapels, both now extinct, — the one
built, about 1420, on the ground now occupied by
Athole-street, and endowed with the rentsof the lands
of Mucklarie, which now belong to the rector of the
grammar school, — the other built on Hillhead to the
east of the town, for the benefit of the inhabitants
of Fungarth, and dedicated to St. Jerome, whence
the people of Fungarth are ludicrously called to this
day Jorums. " There are," said the New Statistical
Account of 1843, " two upright stones on the south
of the cathedral, which formed part of the old
monastery. The oldest house in the town, and
which belonged to the Dean of Dunkeld, stands not
far from the choir. It is the only house now stand-
ing out of the three that escaped the conflagration
of the town in 1689. Its walls are of great thick-
ness. The hill where the bishops hanged many a
lawless freebooter is situated close to the second
lodge of the Dunkeld grounds ; and the hollow
ground to the back of the lodge is the place where
sorcerers were burned." The ancient cross of the
town, removed about the beginning of the present
century, stood about 20 feet high, and had four iron
jugs for the punishing of petty offenders.
The bishops of Dunkeld made a great figure in
the Popish times. They had four palaces, in re-
spectively Dunkeld, Cluny, Perth, and Edinburgh.
Bishop Lauder got his lands south of the Forth
erected into the barony of Aberlady, and those in
the north into the barony of Dunkeld. The latter
lands, besides surrounding Dunkeld, extended con-
tinuously, with a considerable breadth, seven miles,
to the palace of Cluny. The revenue of the cathe-
dral, or chapter, amounted at the Reformation to
upwards of £1,600; but became then so alienated
that a sufficient sum did not remain to support one
incumbent. The Protestant bishops, during the
temporary restoration of episcopacy, did nothing to
repair the cathedral. The present bishop of Dun-
keld, in the Scottish Episcopal Church, is also
bishop of Dunblane and St. Andrews, and resides
at Trinity College, Glenalmond.
The earliest seat of population at Dunkeld is sup-
posed to have been a strong Celtic fort, for command-
ing the entrance of the vale of Athole. This was
called Dunkaledin, — a name which signifies ' the
stronghold of the rough mountainous country,' and
was corrupted into successively Dunkeldin and
Dunkeld. The Pictish kings are supposed to have
regarded this place as one of the keys of their domin-
ion, to have occasionally resided in it, and to have
made it a base of operations for repelling the
Tay ward inroads of the Danes. Some of the Scot-
tish kings, also, loved it for its proximity to grand
hunting-grounds. William the Lion, in particular,
visited it for deer-hunting; and even Mary went to
the chase here, amid a retinue of 2,000 Highland-
ers. Queen Anne also is traditionally said to have
spent a night in Dunkeld House. " Many of the
present monarchs of Europe have visited Dunkeld,
and not only enjoyed the Highland hospitality of
the Athole family, but been liberally indulged in all
the sports which the locality so amply affords. The
last royal visit to Dunkeld was paid by Queen Vic-
toria and Prince Albert in September 1842. Her
Majesty was received on the boundary of the Dun-
keld property by a guard of the Athole men, and
conducted to the park, where Lord Glenlyon, the
heir-apparent of the Athole title, received Her Ma-
jesty at the head of several hundred Highlanders,
and conducted her to the royal tent."
Dunkeld is a burgh-of-barony under the Duke of
Athole. It received from Queen Anne, in 1704, a
charter conferring on it the dignity of a royal burgh,
with 3 bailies, a dean-of-guild, a treasurer, and 10
common-council-men ; also fully empowering it "to
have freemen, merchants, guild-brothers, muni-
cipal courts, or dean-of-guild, with the council and
other members, liberties, and emoluments thereto
belonging, as also burgess -brothers of the fraternity
or guildry, and to be appointed and created with
such liberties and privileges as belong to them, or
are usual within any other burgh-royal within the
kingdom; with full power and liberty to use, tra-
fique, and merchandize, as well within the said
kingdom as without it, in foreign countries, and of
exporting and importing all lawful effects and com-
modities whatsoever." This charter, however, doe3
not appear to have been accepted by the burgh, or
carried into effect, as the town continued merely a
burgh-of-barony. The jurisdiction of the burgh is
that of an ordinary baron-bailie, who is appointed
during the pleasure of the superior. He holds no
regular court; but trifling disputes are settled by
him at his own house. Dunkeld is the capital of a
judicial district of the county; and, as such, is
the seat of the district justice-of-peace courts.
Sheriff's small-debt courts also are held here on the
last Monday of February, June, and October. The
town, in spite of its commanding situation at the
mouth of the Highlands, and though popularly re-
garded as the capital of the northern part of the
county, is not the seat of any extensive trade. It is
a place of considerable transit, indeed, a place of
considerable retail dealing with the surrounding
country, and also a place of great resort to occa-
sional or summer visitors ; but it has no manufac-
tures, and no comprehensive traffic. It is well sup-
plied with butcher-meat and all other provisions,
excepting sea-fish. A weekly market is held on
Saturday.; and annual fairs, for cattle or hiring, are
held on the 14th of February, the 25th of March,
old style, the 9th of June, old style, and the second
DUNKELD.
471
DUNKELD.
Tuesday of November. The town lias several in-
surance agencies, a national savings' bank, and
offices of the Union Bank, the Commercial Bank,
and the Central Bank. Daily communications are
maintained by public conveyance with Perth, In-
verness, Pitlochry, and the Dunkeld road station of
the Scottish Midland railway. There are several
good inns, also a temperance coffee-house.
Behind the cathedral stood an old-fashioned
square building, the ancient palace of the Dukes of
Athole. A little to the west, adjacent to the Tay,
but behind an eminence which was intended to be
removed, stands the incompleted new palace, be-
gun by the fourth Duke, but stopped at his death in
1830. This was designed to be a magnificent edi-
fice; and, should it ever be completed, it will im-
part great brilliance to the town and environs. Two
floors of it were nearly finished, — also a gallery
9i3 feet long, an elegant private chapel, a spacious
staircase, and several noble Gothic windows, which
were to have been decorated with stone sculptnr-
ings of the family's armorial bearings. The park
connected with the palace is singularly grand. It
was ever so by nature ; and it received such artificial
improvements from the fourth Duke as converted
large part of it into one of the finest possible land-
scape gardens. Though the grounds were limited,
the Duke so planned them as to have a home-farm,
grass parks, an extensive garden, ornamental walks,
picturesque carriage drives, American gardens, and
a lawn, all within the enclosures. The walks
are upwards of fifty in number, and the carriage-
drives comprise a distance of at least thirty miles.
The Dunkeld grounds are particularly famous for
their woods. Both the numbers and the luxuriance
of the trees are remarkable. The predominance of
the larch, also, but especially the relation of that
tree here to important georgic improvement through-
out Sootland, is notable. In 1738, almost fortui-
tously, five larch plantlets were brought from abroad
to Dunkeld, and at the same a few others to Blair-
Athole and Monzie. The larch had never before
been thought of as a forest-tree for Scotland; and
was then believed to be far too tender for adaptation
to our climate. The five plants brought to Dun-
keld from the Tyrol were planted in alluvial gravel,
abounding with rounded stones, in a sheltered situ-
ation, at an altitude of 40 feet above the level of the
Tay. In 1809, two of them were felled, — and the
one, containing 168 cubic feet of wood, was sold on
the spot for £25 4s. to a company of Leith ship-
builders,— and the other, containing 147 cubic feet
of wood, was sent to Woolwich dockyard, and there
used as beams for repairing the Serapis store-ship.
So many plantlets as to cover about 9,000 acres, con-
tiguous to Dunkeld and away over the mountains,
were planted before the year 1821; and all proved
thriving and productive, — converting the whole
tract into valuable forest-land, even in places too
elevated to be suitable for the Scotch pine, and at
the same time transmuting great tracts of it which
had been heathy waste into good, natural, gramine-
ous pasture. And from this grand experiment, to-
gether with the concurrent ones at Blair-Athole and
Monzie, arose that general diffusion of the larch
through Scotland which has eventually rendered it
one of our best known and most cherished trees,
both as an ornament of the shrubbery and as a deni-
zen of the forest.
DUNKELD (Little), a parish a little north-east
of the centre of Perthshire. It contains the post-
office village of Dalguise, and is separated, at its
most populous part, by only the public bridge across
the Tay, from the post-town of Dunkeld. It con-
tains also upwards of twenty bankets or villages,
varying in population from 30 to 180. It is bounded
by the parishes of Dull, Logicrait, Dunkeld and
Dowally, Caputh, Kinclaven, Auchtergaven, Mon-
zie, and Weem. Its greatest length, east-south-
eastward, is 16 miles; and its greatest breadth is
about 9 miles. The Tay runs along its margin, in
grand sweeps, chiefly southward and south-east-
ward, over a distance of at least 13 miles, forming
the whole of the boundary with Logierait, Dowally,
Dunkeld, and Caputh. The Bran, coming in from
the vicinity of Arnulree, flows partly on the south-
ern boundary, but chiefly through the interior, east-
north-eastward, to the Tay. The name Little Dun-
keld belonged originally to a village, now extinct,
which stood on the Tay opposite Dunkeld, and was
a sort of suburb to it; and, in consequence of the
original parish church being situated there, the
name was communicated to the whole parish. The
famous mountain Birnam stands on the boundary
with Auchtergaven. See Birxam. Most of the
other borders, except on the Tay, and a large pro-
portion of the interior, also, are mountainous. The
total extent of uncultivated land has been com-
puted at 20,378 imperial acres, — of which 12,500
are constantly waste, and only 367 are improveable.
The arable and peopled tracts constitute three dis-
tricts, each having a distinctive name, — Murthly,
down the Tay, from Dunkeld bridge to the southern
boundary, — the Bishopric, up the Tay, from Dun-
keld bridge to the northern boundary, — and Strath-
bran, from the junction of the two preceding, and
transversely to them, up both sides of the Bran, to
the western boundary. The southern and eastern
parts of Murthly present an undulating surface.
The soil is a kind of black loam mixed with sand,
and tolerably fertile. There is a considerable tract
of heath, a portion of which is now covered with
fine woods. The northern part of the district be-
low Inver is a deep, narrow vale along the Tay. It
is adorned with oak-woods; and the bottom forms a
stripe of good arable land. The Bishopric is about
10 miles in length. It derives its name from the
greater part of it having formerly been the property
of the see of Dunkeld. The Tay flows along it in a
wide smooth stream. The bottom of the valley is level
and fertile; and on the west is a long range of high
mountains, which present an irregular but bold and
abrupt face to the valley. The numerous projec-
tions of the range are perpetually changing the point
of view, and opening up new prospects to the travel-
ler as he moves along. This district is populous ; and
it contains a number of gentlemen's seats, and is
richly adorned throughout the greater part of its
surface with oak-woods. The soil is sandy, with a
mixture of loam. Beyond the Bishopric, to the
western extremity of the parish, there is a wild tract
of great extent composed of hills, moors, and glens,
through which considerable streamlets find their
way into the Bran. It does not appear to be dis-
tinguished by any general name, and is scarcely
occupied by any human habitations. The district
of Stratbbran extends about 9 miles from west to
east. It has a soil of clay and loam, and is more
moist than either of the others. The surface rises
in a gentle slope from both sides of the Bran, and is
bounded on the south and the north by hiBs. The
soil is fertile, and the lands are populous. Beyond
the valley towards the south there is a long tract of
hills occupying nearly 4,000 acres, and covered
principally with heath, though in some places
affording good pasture. In Murthly there is an in-
exhaustible body of freestone, of a fine grain, and
great hardness. It is of a light, vivid ash colour,
and was used for building the cathedral of Dunkeld.
The hill of Birnam furnishes slates of a deep hluo
DUNKELD.
472
DUNLOP.
colour, bordering on violet. Iron probably exists to
some extent in the parish, as there are fountains
Btrongly impregnated with this metal near Dalguise
in the Bishopric, and also at Murthly. " In Strath-
bran," says the Old Statistical Account, " near the
king's highway, there is to be met with a remark-
able kind of clay. When wet it feels perfectly
smooth and unctuous; when dry it acquires a re-
markable degree of induration; and when pounded,
the powder affects the touch like the finest wheat
flour." " This argillaceous substance," it is added,
"may be fit for some of the finest works of the
potter." A great part of the wealth of this parish
consists iu the natural woods, which are mostly of
oak. The planting of wood has also been carried to
a great extent, particularly on the Athole estate,
continuously with the vast plantations on the other
side of the Tay. The total area under wood is up-
wards of 3,200 acres. The principal landowners are
the Duke of Athole, Sir W. Drummond Stewart,
Bart., Stewart of Dalguise, and Campbell of Kinloch.
The real rental is about £11,620. Assessed pro-
perty in 1843, £8,960 6s. lOd. Population in 1831,
2,867; in 1861, 2,104. Houses, 485.
On Craigobany, one of the summits of Birnam,
there was recently discovered a vitrified fort. Near
the bottom of the south-east side of Birnam, also,
there is a round movmd which bears some traces of
a rude fortification. It has been known from time
immemorial by the names of Court hill and Dun-
can's hill; and tradition reports that it was occa-
sionally occupied by the unfortunate King Duncan.
A number of small caims are in the immediate
neighbourhood. A little higher up the same hill
are the ruins of an oblong building, called in Gaelic
Forhillon, with circular turrets at the corners.
Birnam, as is well known, was anciently a forest,
and part of the domain of the Scottish kings. Be-
sides the remains of antiquity already mentioned,
there are a number of Druidical circles, British forts,
and immense cairns. A stone-bridge over the Bran,
a little above Trochrie, is said, in Sir John Sinclair's
Statistical Account, to be the oldest in Perthshire.
The castle of Trochrie on the banks of the Bran,
and about 3 miles above Little Dunkeld, was a seat
of the unfortunate John, Earl of Gowrie. It is now
a complete ruin. The principal mansions in the par-
ish are Murthly Castle, Dalguise House, Kinnaird
House, Birnam Lodge, Birnam Cottage, and Tor-
wood House. See Murthly and Dalquise. The
combinations of ornament and natural feature in
the scenery of the parks are eminently picturesque;
and those on the Athole grounds form a pendant to
the romantic briliance qf the Dunkeld policies on
the opposite bank of the Tay. But the most re-
markable points in these grounds are Ossian's hall
and the Bumbling bridge, on the Bran. See Bean
(The). Ossian's hall is a neat edifice situated on a
romantic promontory which overlooks a broad, bro-
ken cascade. The stranger is conducted into a small
apartment lighted from the top, and desired to look
at a picture of Ossian painted on the wall. While
he is examining it, it suddenly disappears as if by
magic, and he finds himself at the entrance of an
oblong apartment, the walls and roof of which are
covered with mirrors, wherein the cascade opposite
the window is reflected, tumbling as it were in all
directions ; — a fantastic and ill-assorted combination
of the solemnities of nature with childish toys.
There is much sound, sober sense, as well as high
poetry, in the 'Effusion' of Wordsworth, on this
cascade and its hall, which we make no apology for
quoting: —
" What He— who, mid the kindred throng
Of heroes that inspil °.d his song
Doth yet frequent the hill of storms,
The stars dim-twinkling through their forms!
What! Ossian here — a painted thrall,
Mute fixture on a stuccoed wall;
To serve — an unsuspected screen
For show that must not yet he seen;
And, when the moment comes, to part
And vanish by mysterious art;
Head, harp, and body, split asunder,
For ingress to a world of wonder;
A gay saloon, with waters dancing
Upon the sight wherever glancing;
One loud cascade in front, and iol
A thousand like it white as snow,
Streams on the walls, and torrent-foam
As active round the hollow dome,
Illusive cataracts! of their terrors
Not stripped and voiceless in the mirrors,
That catch the pageant from the flood
Thundering adown a rocky wood.
What pains to dazzle and confound!
What strife of colour, shape, and sound
In this quaint medley, that might seem
Devised out of a sick man's dream!
Strange scene, fantastic and uneasy
As ever made a maniac dizzy,
When disenchanted from the mood
That loves on sullen thoughts to brood!
O Nature! in thy changeful visions,
Through all thy most abrupt transitions.
Smooth, graceful, tender, or sublime-
Ever averse to pantomime,
Thee neither do they know nor us
Thy servants, who can trifle thus;
Else verily the sober powers
Of rock that frowns, and stream that roars
Exalted by congenial sway
Of spirits, and the undying lay,
And names that moulder not away,
Had wakened some redeeming thought
More worthy of this favoured spot;
Recalled some feeling, to set free
The Bard from such indignity!"
The parish of Little Dunkeld is in the presbytery
of Dunkeld, and synod of Perth and Stirling. Pa-
tron, the Crown. There are two churches in the
parish ; — one at Little Dunkeld, which was built in
1798, with 820 sittings; the other at Laganallachy,
which is situated in the district of Strathbran, about
3 miles from Little Dunkeld, with about 500 sit-
tings. Stipend, £157 10s. 3d.; glebes at Little
Dunkeld and Laganallachy worth about £28 a-year.
The minister has also a right of cutting peats for
fuel. There are two Free churches at Dalguise and
Strathbran, with attendance of respectively about
150 and about 170; but they form one charge: re-
ceipts in 1865, £187 2s. 6d. There are two par-
ochial schools. The salary of the one is fixed at
£40, with £10 of fees ; and that of the other is £10,
with £15 of fees. There are five other schools.
There is a small parochial library. The village of
Inver, on the Bran near Dunkeld, was the birth-
place of Neil Gow. An old oak in the Athole
grounds, near this place, is still pointed out as his
favourite tree, under which he used to sit for hours
composing his beautiful airs.
DUNKELD AND DOW ALLY. See Dunkeld.
DUNKELD AND PERTH RAILWAY. Sea
Pekth and Dunkeld Railway.
DUNKELD ROAD, a station on the Scottish
Midland railway, about 1 mile above Luncarty, and
1J mile below Stanley.
DUNLAPPIE. See Stkickathkow.
DUNLICHITY. See Daviot.
DUNLOP, a parish, partly in Renfrewshire, but
chiefly in Ayrshire. It contains a village of its own
name, 2A miles north of Stewarton, which is its post
town. It is bounded by the parishes of Neilston,
Stewarton, and Beith. It is of an oblong figure,
stretching from north-east to south-west, generally
about 2 miles broad, but tapering and narrow to-
ward the extremities. Its greatest length is about
7 miles. The surface, for the most part, is agree-
DUNLOP.
473
DUNMORE.
ably undulating, nowhere rising into a greater
elevation above the beds of tbe local streams than
150 feet ; yet the whole is more than 300 i'eet above
the level of the sea; and, from many of its knolls
or little hills, it carries the eye minutely and gra-
phically over the richly cultivated country between
it and the sea, and away over the map of romance
spread out over the wide waters of the frith of
Clyde. All the way south-westward it gradually
slopes ; in some places, it is a beautifully irregular
agglomeration of knolls ; and often, when it swells
up, on one side, in a gentle rising ground, it breaks
suddenly down, on the other, in a precipitous rock
or grassy-bank overhanging a rivulet. In its
central parts, however, it has a somewhat naked
appearance from paucity of plantation. The parish
is separated from Beith by Lugton water, and from
Stewarton by Corsebill-burn, and is bisected into
nearly equal ports by the Glazert, — all the streams
flowing south-westward. The soil, in some places,
is a fine loam; in a few spots, is moss; but in
general is of a clayey, retentive nature, and very
productive. Limestone abounds; coal is of very
inferior quality, and is not worked. About 30 acres
are moss; about 131 are under wood; and nearly
all the rest of the parish, excepting steep banks
impracticable to the plough, is under cultivation.
There are five principal landowners. The real
rental, if all the land were in lease, is nearly £8,000.
The estimated yearly value of raw produce in 1837
was £15,509 15s. Assessed property in 1860,
£9,750 0s. Od. Dunlop house, beautifully situ-
ated on the brook which forms the south-eastern
boundary, is a splendid mansion. Dunlop has long
been celebrated for its cheese ; and though now suc-
cessfully competed with by most parishes in Ayr-
shire, and some in Renfrewshire, in the production
of that article, is even yet unsurpassed. Barbara
Gilmour — a woman whose wits were sharpened,
and whose range of observation was varied, by exile
to Ireland, during the troubles in Scotland between
the Restoration and the Revolution — settled down
in Dunlop as a fanner's wife; and having specially
turned her attention to the produce of the dairy,
successfully attempted to manufacture from un-
skimmed milk a species of cheese then unknown in
Scotland, and altogether different from the homy,
insipid produce of skimmed milk still in use among
the peasantry of Peebles and other secluded dis-
tricts. Her manufacture was speedily imitated by
her neighbours; and, in a short time, came into
such general demand, under the name of Dunlop
cheese, that, whether the produce of her own hands,
or that of her neighbours, or that of persons in
adjoining parishes, it found far and near a ready
market. Even Mr. Cobhett himself has pronounced
it " equal in quality to any cheese from Cheshire,
Gloucestershire, or Wiltshire." About 25,000 stones
are now produced annually in the parish ; and large
quantities from other parishes in the south and west
pass through it as an entrepot both convenient for
its situation, and advantageous for its celebrity.
Dunlop is traversed for 5 miles by the road between
Kilmarnock and Paisley ; it is otherwise well-pro-
vided with roads; and it enjoys some facility of
communication from being in the neighbourhoood of
the Glasgow and South-western and Glasgow and
Barrhead railways. The village of Dunlop stands
near the centre of the parish, and in the Ayrshire
section of it, on the road from Stewarton to Paisley,
5 miles east-south-east of Beith, and 9 north-north-
east of Irvine. It consists of a single street. Fans
for dairy stock a re held here on the second Friday
of May, old style, and on the 12th day of November.
Population of the village, about 330. Population
of the Ayrshire section of the parish in 1831, 987;
in 1861, 983. Houses, 167. Population of the
whole parish in 1831, 1,043; in 1861, 1,038.
Houses, 175.
This parish is in the presbytery of Irvine, and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Karl of Eglinton.
Stipend, £251 8s. 5d. ; glebe, £20. Unappropriated
teinds, £256 18s. 9d. Schoolmaster's salary, £50,
with about £37 fees. The parish church was built
in 1835, and contains 750 sittings. There is a
Free church, whose receipts in 1865 amounted to
£86 Is. Hid. There are a Free church school, an
endowed female school, an adventure schoo , a
friendly society, and two small public libraries.
Dunlop parish was formerly a vicarage of the monks
of Kilwinning.
DUNLOSKIN (Loch of), a small fresh-water
lake, remarkable for its water-lilies, in the parish of
Dunoon, Argyleshire.
DUNMACSNICAN. See Beriqonium.
DUNMAGLASS, a district, 19 miles north-east
by east of Fort- Augustus, surrounded by Inverness-
shire, and comprised in the old parish of Dunlichity,
but belonging to Nairnshire. Here is the seat of
the ancient family of MacGillivray, chief of the
clan of that name. This district anciently belonged
to the Thanes of Calder, one of whom procured an
Act in 1405, incorporating all his lands in the shires
of Inverness and Forres, into the shire of Nairn ; and,
accordingly, Dunmaglass forms still a part of that
county, though under the jurisdiction of the sheriff
of Inverness. Dunmaglass comprehends all the
sources of the river Farigag, in Stratherriek, above
Abershea. The whole is in the form of an oblique
parallelogram, of which the longer diagonal runs
north and south about 7 miles; the extent being
about 1 6 square miles.
DUNMAN, a rocky hill, overhanging the sea,
and crowned with vestiges of an ancient British fort,
at the south-east corner of the parish of Kirkmaiden,
Wigtonshire.
DUNMORE, the ancient name of numerous
isolated heights in various parts of Scotland. It
signifies the great fortified hill, and seems to have
been a common designation of ancient elevated
strongholds; whence it came to be transferred to
some seats of population in their vicinity. But even
some conspicuous places which bear it in early
history, such as the hill now called Norman's Law
in the north-west corner of Fifeshire, have long
ceased to be popularly known by it.
DUNMORE, a conspicuous height in the vicinity
of Comrie, Perthshire. It is crowned by a hand-
some obelisk of white granite, 7J feet high, reared
in honour of the late Lord Melville. " The view
from this elevated spot," says Brown, in his Picture
of Stratheam, " is, in the opinion of some persons of
taste, superior even to that by the approach to
Comrie by the hills of Cowden and Auchincarry.
The distant and faintly marked laws of Cupar, the
undulating and gently swelling Ochils, lessening
on the eye, and insensibly losing themselves, as it
were, in the German ocean, the purple hues and
misty azure of the mountains that surround Loch
Lomond, heightened by the variety of colouring the
intervening objects produce, — the finely wild pointed
and irregular rocks that surround Ardvoirlich, float-
ing inverted upon the glassy surface of Loch Earn,
— the valley itself, spread before you like a map, as
far as the bridge of Earn, — the river winding its
serpentine course through it, occasionally reflecting
the sun's rays, at other times stealing out of view
among the woods that line its banks, — are a few,
and but a few, of the interesting objects beheld from
this hold commanding station."
DUNMOEE.
474
DUNNET.
DUNMOEE, a curious hill in the parish of
Monzie, Perthshire. See Monzie.
DUNMOEE, a village, and an estate, in the par-
ish of Airth, Stirlingshire. The village stands on
the Forth, 1 j mile north-west of Airth, and 8 miles
east-south-east of Stirling. It has a small harbour,
which is within the jurisdiction of the port of Alloa.
The Stirling and Granton steamers call here. Po-
pulation, 153. Houses, 36. The Dunmore estate
is the property and residence of the Earl of Dun-
more. The park is beautifully wooded ; the mansion
is an elegant Gothic structure ; and both contribute
fine features to the carse scenery of the Forth. See
Airth. The first Earl of Dunmore was Lord
Charles Murray, second son of John Marquis of
Athole, and of Lady Amelia Stanley, by whom the
sovereignty of the isle of Man, and the barony of
Strange, came into the Athole family. His lordship
was the sixth in descent from Mary, queen-dowager
of France, the beautiful daughter of Henry VII.,
through the Earls of Derby, and the Cliffords, Earls
of Cumberland. There is an Episcopalian chapel
at Dunmore.
DUNMYAT, an abrupt commanding eminence,
in the parish of Logie, and on the north flank of the
windings of the Forth, about midway between
Stirling and Alloa. Its altitude above sea-level is
1,345 feet. It is a frontier mass of the Ochils, pro-
jecting somewhat from the rest of the range, and
breaking precipitously down in rocky cliffs from its
shoulders to the plain. Its summit commands a
prospect almost unrivalled in gorgeousness, and
abundantly satisfying in extent, — the domain of
Airthrey, the vale of the Devon, Cambuskenneth
abbey, Stirling, the carses of the Forth, and a pro-
fusion of landscape decoration, on the foreground, —
the fertile Lothians, and the fertile flat of central
Scotland away to the centre of Clydesdale, with
their rich variety of feature, on the middle ground
south-eastward and southward, — nearly the whole
basin of the Forth, from the vicinity of its head
around Loch Ard to its immergence on the coast of
the German Ocean, with its brilliance and diversity
of water and of side-screens, on the middle ground
from west to east, — and the peaks and masses of the
frontier Grampians and of the Southern Highlands,
from the centre of Perthshire, round by Loch Catrine
and Loch Lomond, up Clydesdale, to the Pentlands
of Peebles-shire, on the back ground. This height
has the same general character as the rest of the
Ochils, but is penetrated with large workable veins
of barytes. See Ochil Hills.
DU'NNAFEULAN. See Sanda.
DUNNAGOIL. See Dunagoil.
DUNNEMARLE. See Culkoss.
DUNNET, a parish, containing a post-office vil-
lage of its own name, on the north coast of Caith-
ness-shire. It is bounded by the Pentland frith,
and by the parishes of Canisbay, Bower, and Olrick.
Its greatest length, in the direction of south-east by
south, is 12 miles; and its greatest breadth is 6miles.
A promontory, called Dunnet-head, projects about
3 miles north ward from the main body of the parish,
and is the most northerly tract in the mainland of
Britain. This promontory consists of several hills
interspersed with valleys, in which is a considerable
extent of pasture for small cattle and sheep. Through
its whole extent, it presents a front of broken rocks
to the sea, the height of which varies from 100 to
400 feet. It is joined to the land by an isthmus,
about lj mile broad. Alight-house was erected on
this promontory in 1831. It shows a fixed light,
visible at the distance of 23 miles in clear weather,
and elevated 340 feet above high water. A great
variety of fowls frequent the rocks; one called the
layer, or puffin, is found in no other place of the
British isles, except Hoyhead in Orkney, and the
cliffs of Dover. A small headland, called Dwarrick-
head, projects to the west immediately south of the
isthmus. A large bay, called Dunnet-bay, enters
between that headland and Holburn-head, sends im-
mediately off from its west side the bay of Thurso
to the town of Thurso, and penetrates the land alto-
gether about 5J miles south-eastward, with an aver-
age width of about 2f miles, to the commencement
of the territorial boundary-line between Dunnet and
Olrick. The total extent of coast belonging to
Dunnet is about 15 miles. The greater part of it is
bold and rocky. On the east of Dunnet-bay there
is a beautiful level sand, stretching for two miles
along the shore, over which the sea ebbs and flows
above a quarter of a mile. The sand above high-
water-mark is loose ; and by being exposed to driv-
ing, frequently hurts the neighbouring lands. Ad-
joining it is a tract of barren sand nearly 2 miles in
diameter, which is said to have been arable ground,
or rich pasture, some time about the end of the 17th
century. The ruins of cottages have appeared in
different parts of it ; but they seem to be of a much
older date. That part of the coast to the east of
Dunnet-head, along the frith, is low and rocky.
Though Dunnet-bay runs so far into the land, it
affords no shelter for any vessels upon the north-east
side of it, which is contiguous to Dunnet-head, as it
is exposed to the west. But on the Pentland frith,
to the east of the Head, there are several very secure
havens for boats or small craft. The haven of
Brough, close by the Head, is well-sheltered from
every wind but the north-west. The harbour of
Ham, or Holm, scarcely a mile to the east of Brough,
might also be rendered safe for small vessels at little
expense. It has, however, the inconvenience of a
bar of sand and gravel across the entrance, upon
which there is not sufficient depth of water for
vessels in any great burden, but with spring-tides.
Scarfskerry is a narrow creek between two rocks,
and affords a convenient landing for boats with easy
weather, but is not capable of being much improved.
Dunnet-bay affords excellent flounders and haddocks ;
and is sometimes frequented by shoals of herrings,
in July and August. Besides these, great quantities
of cuddins, as they are called here, or small saiths,
are caught in the summer-season. The frith abounds
with excellent cod and ling, which are found prin-
cipally in deep water, in the tide-way, and taken
with a line of 50 or 60 fathoms, to which a single
hook is fixed, and a lead sinker.
All the parish, excepting Dunnet-head, may be
regarded as nearly a level district, with an average
elevation of about 150 feet or less above the sea, and
with its inequalities disposed in almost parallel
ridges, from north-east to south-west. The soil is in
general light, comprising little clay or deep loam.
The rock of Dunnet-head is sandstone; and that of
the rest of the parish is the common flag-stone slate
of the county. If the entire land surface be classi-
fied into 17 parts, about 5 of them are in cultivation,
2 are links, 6 are moss, and 4 are improvable waste
land. There are ten small lakes on Dunnet-head,
— two lakes of about a mile each in length, Hayland,
and St. John's, in the interior of the parish— and
another, about two miles in length, Loch Seister,
amidst a dreary expanse of moss, on the boundary
with Canisbay. Quarries are worked both on Dun-
net-head and in the interior. The principal land-
owners are Traill of Ratter and Sinclair of Freswick.
The real rental is about £3,600._ The yearly value
of raw produce was estimated in 1840 at £16,100.
Assessed property in 1860, £5,769 0s. The road
from Thurso to Canisbay bisects the parish nearly
DUNNICHEN.
475
DUNNING.
through the middle. The village of Duimct stands
on that road, in the vicinity of the north-east ex-
tremity of Dunnet bay, and ahout 9 miles east by
north of Thurso. It is a very small place, hut has
a beautiful exposure and declivity to the south.
There are several caves in the rocks of the coast,
and the vestiges of some old chapels are still to le
seen. Two inner cells of Plots' houses exist at Ham.
The entrances are about 8 feet asunder, and seem to
have led from two outer circular apartments, of al out
17 or 18 feet diameter, which appear to have had a
communication from the one to the other. The
entrance to the largest cell is near 30 inches v\ide;
but as it is much filled up with earth, it is not
known what the height of it may have originally
been. The cell is about 9 feet long, and 6 feet wide
about the middle; but becomes narrower towards
the farther extremity, which is circular. The roof
is about 5 feet from the earth in the floor. The
walls are constructed of large rough stones, ap-
parently without any kind of cement. Every course
in the walls projects a little over that immediately
below it, till they approach within about 3 feet of
one another. That space is covered by a course of
strong stone lintels. The smaller cell is finished in
the same manner. And the whole is covered with
earth, which forms a beautiful green mount, about
8 or 9 feet above the level of the adjacent field.
Four cattle markets are held in the parish yearly,
— three of them at Dunnet, on the first Tuesday of
April, the Tuesday after the 15th of August, old
style, and the first Tuesday of October, old style,
—and the other at Reaster, 5J miles south-east of
Dunnet, on the third Tuesday of October, old style,
Population in 1831, 1,906; in 1801, 1,861. Houses,
382.
This parish is in the presbytery of Caithness, and
svnod of Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, Sir
James Colquhoun, Bart. Stipend, £221 Is. 6d; glebe,
£10. Unappropriated teinds, £13 8s. 9d. School-
master's salary, under the new act, £52 2s. The
parish church is an old building, repaired in 1837,
and containing 700 sittings. There is a Free church :
attendance about 700; receipts in 1865, £124 12s.
7d. There are an Assembly's school, several private
schools and a friendly society.
DUNNET-BAY. "See Dukxet.
DUNNET.-HEAD. See Dusket
DUNNICHEN, a parish, containing the post-town
of Lethem, and the villages of Drummitermon, Cot-
ton of Lownie, Bowriefauld, Craichie, and Dunni-
chen, a little south-east of the centre of Forfarshire.
It is bounded by Eescobie, Kirkden, Carmylie,
Guthrie, Inverarity, and Forfar. It is of extremely
irregular outline; having a main bod}7 of nearly the
form of a parallelogram, and sending off arms which
embrace and almost bisect the parish of Kirkden.
Part of it, too, is quite detached. See Duxbakrow.
It is altogether about 5 miles in length from east to
west, and about 3f miles in breadth; and it com-
prises about 4,514 Scotch acres. It consists of the
three estates of Dunnichen, Dunbarrow, and Tulloes.
The surface in general consists of gently sloping
ridges, and is considerably high, but does not
shoot up into any very great elevations. The hill
of Dunnichen, whose summit forms the northern
boundary line, and which stretches ahout 3 miles in
a south-easterly direction, is the highest ground:
and at its loftiest point rises 520 feet above the
level of a stream on a neighbouring plain, and 720
above the level of the sea. On the summit and sides
of this hill — which, with trivial exceptions, is all
cultivated or planted — the soil is a friable sandy
loam; and in most other parts of the parish it is
either of the same character as here, or a friable
clay with a retentive subsoil. A brook, called Vinny
or Finny, runs from west to east along the base of
the hill of Dunnichen, receiving some rills in its
course, and passes into Kirkden, there to disgorge
itself into the Lunan. Sandstone of excellent quality
for a variety of purposes is quarried at Dunnichen.
About 420 acres in the parish are under wood; and
more than twice that extent of ground is pastoral
or waste. The total yearly value of raw produce
was estimated in 1833 at £19,630 10s. Assessed
property in 1860, £6 0S5 0s. Od. Dunnichen-house
is a fine mansion beautifully embosomed in plan-
tation. There are in the parish a flax spinning mill
and several corn mills; and there is considerable
employment in the weaving of linen. The stations
of the Aberdeen railway at Forfar and eastward are
sufficiently near to afford facilities of communication.
The village of Dunnichen stands in the north-western
part of the parish, about 4 miles east-south-east of
Forfar. A fair of much consequence used to be held
here on the third Wednesday of March, old style ;
but it has dwindled into insignificance. Population
of the parish in 1831, 1,513; in 1861, 1,932. Houses,
423.
This parish is in the presbytery of Forfar, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £158 2s. 3d. ; glebe, £11. Schoolmaster's
salary has become, under the "act of 1861, £55.
The parish church is situated at the village of
Dunnichen, was built in 1802 and repaired in
1817, and contains 456 sittings. There is a Free
church: attendance, 260; receipts in 1865, £224 lis.
]0^d. There is an United Presbyterian church at
Lethem, built about 15 years ago, and having an
attendance of about 120. There is also an Indepen-
dent chapel at Lethem, built in 1802, and contain-
ing 360 sittings. There are non-parochial schools at
Lethem and Dunbarrow, and a public library at
Lethem. The aboriginal church of Dunnichen was
a chapel belonging to the abbey of Arbroath, situ-
ated on an island in a shallow lake, now for the most
part drained, and bearing the name of the Mire of
Dunnichen.
DUNNIDEER. See Iksch.
DUNN1K1ER, the old part of the town of Path-
head, in the parish of Dysart, Fifeshire. It is of
ancient date, and stands on the estate of Dunnikier.
It comprises three principal streets, the Back, the
Middle, and the Nether. At the end of the last of
these is the house long inhabited by the Dun-
nikier family. Here is a Free church, whose re-
ceipts in 1865 amounted to £226 17s. lOd. See
Pathhead and Dtsart.
DUNNIKIER, an estate in the parishes of Dysart
and Kirkcaldy, Fifeshire. It belongs to the ancient
family of Oswald. It comprises a large portion of
Dysart contiguous to the shore, and about seven-
eights of the landward part of Kirkcaldy. The
modern mansion stands in the latter parish, shel-
tered by plantations. There are collieries on the
estate.
DUNNIKIER-LAW, a hill, of 750 feet of altitude
above sea-level, in the parish of Kilconquhar, Fife-
shire. It commands an extensive and very bril-
liant view of part of Fifeshire, part of the friths
of Forth and Tay, and portions of more distant
country away to the Lammermoors, the Sidlaws,
and the Grampians.
DUNNINALD. See Ckaig.
DUNNING, a parish, containing a small post-
town of its own name, also the village of Newton of
Pitcairns, on the south-east border of Perthshire.
It is bounded by Kinross-shire, and by the parishes
of Fossaway, Auchterarder, Gask, Forteviot, and
Forgandenny. Its length northward is about 7
DUNNOTTAR.
476
DUNNOTTAR.
miles; and its greatest breadth is about 4 miles.
The Earn flows along the northern boundary. The
May drains the southern border. The Dunning
bum rises among the Ochils, and makes a rapid de-
scent over a bed of gravel to the Earn. A lake
called the White Moss covers about 1 1 acres in the
west. About one-third of the whole parochial area
lies among the Ochils ; and the rest slopes to the Earn.
The Ochil district affords excellent sheep pasturage.
The soil near the Earn is light and sandy; and in
other parts varies from clay to gravel. Upwards of
200 acres are under wood. There are several
quarries. The principal landowner is Lord Rollo,
and two other large landowners are Graeme of Gar-
vock and Belshes of Invermay. A chief object of
interest is Duncruib, the residence of Lord Kollo.
See Duncruib. The houses of Garvock and Pit-
cairns are modem mansions. There are in the
parish three corn-mills, a saw-mill, and a woollen
factory. There formerly were malt-works and a
distillery. An extensive employment is weaving for
the manufacturers of Glasgow. The Scottish Cen-
tral railway traverses the parish, and has a station
in it. Population of the parish in 1831, 2,045; in
1861, 2,084. Houses, 514. Assessed property in
1865, £12,606 3s.
This parish, formerly a chapelry, is in the presby-
tery of Auchterarder, and synod of Perth and Stir-
ling. Patron, the Earl of Kinnoul. Stipend, £238
19s. 2d.; glebe, £20. Unappropriated teinds, £13
18s. 6d. Schoolmaster's salary, fixed at £55, with
£18 fees. The parish church was rebuilt and en-
larged in 1810, and contains about 1,000 sittings.
There is a Free church : whose receipts in 1865
amounted to £137 3s. 4,Jd. There are two United
Presbyterian churches — the one at Dunning, with
an attendance of 160, — and the other at Dalreoch,
with an attendance of 100. There are also an Ori-
ginal Secession church, which however is now shut
up, and an Evangelical Union place of worship.
There are a free school, a female school, and a sub-
scription school.
The Town of Dunning stands on the road from
Auchterarder to Perth, about 2 miles south of the
Earn, 4 north-east of Auchterarder, 9$ south-west
of Perth, and 53 by railway north-east by north of
Glasgow. It was burnt by the rebels in 1716. It is
now a neat little place, containing many substantial
houses. It is held in feu of Lord Rollo, and is un-
der the superintendence of a baron-bailie. It has
a public library, a gas-work, and a bread society.
A weekly market is held on Wednesday; and yearly
fairs are held on the second Tuesday of May, old
style, on the 20th of June, and on the 24th of Octo-
ber. Population, 1,105.
_ DUNNOTTAR, a parish, containing the fishing
village of Crawton, and part of the post-town of
Stonehaven, on the coast of Kincardineshire. It is
bounded on the east by the German ocean, and on
other sides by the parishes of Fetteresso, Glenber-
vie, and Kinneff. Its form is triangular, extending
about 4 miles in length on each side, by 2J in
breadth, at the base along the coast, and compre-
hending 8,156 English acres. The river Can-on
traces all the northern boundary to the sea at Stone-
haven. Part of the surface, inward from Stone-
haven, is the eastern end of the How of the Mearns,
or eastern commencement of the great hollow which
extends diagonally across Scotland, and bears in
Forfarshire and Perthshire the name of Strathmore.
The rest of the surface is uneven, with frequent but
inconsiderable risings, which do not deserve the
name of hills. Towards the coast the soil is a kind
of clay loam; but as it recedes it degenerates into a j
wet gravelly moor. The sea-coast, especially that '
part of it called Fowls-heugh, upwards of a mile in
length, is very bold, and formed of alternate strata
of freestone and plumpudding-stone, the latter con-
taining nodules of quartz and limestone. There are
many deep caves in the rocks, which are much fre-
quented by gulls, coots, and other sea-fowls. About
690 acres of the parish are under wood, about 4,860
are under cultivation, and about 1,740 are moorland
or natural pasture. Sandstone has long been ex-
tensively quarried in a cliff above the harbour of
Stonehaven. The prevailing rock of the parish is
conglomerate. There are five principal estates.
The chief country residence is Dunnottar house, a
large plain mansion, built about 52 years ago, and
embosomed in wood. The chief antiquity, and an
object of great interest and very conspicuous, is
Dunnottar Castle, which we shall afterwards notice
in full. The real rental of the parish is about
£6,600. Assessed property in 1865, £9,750 14s. lid.
The weaving of linen and cotten is an extensive
employment. The Aberdeen railway traverses the
parish diagonally, and has a station at Stonehaven.
The great Strathmore road traverses in the same
direction as the railway; and the great road from
Montrose to Aberdeen, passes along the coast.
Population of the parish in 1831, 1,852; in 1861,
1,828. Houses, 339.
This parish is in the presbytery of Fordoun, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £232 IPs. 10d.; glebe, £8. Schoolmaster's
salary, £34 4s. 4£d., with about £54 4s. 6d. fees.
The parish church stands on the Carron, about a
mile from Stonehaven. It was built in 1782. But
the original parish church stood within the walls o[
Dunnottar Castle. There is a Free church in Stone-
haven: attendance 500; receipts in 1865, £206 10s.
8Jd. The parish also shares in the schools and
other interests of Stonehaven, and has its own par-
ochial school there. See Stonehaven.
The site of Dunnottar Castle is a stupendous
perpendicular rock, about 1£ mile south of Stone-
haven, rising 160 feet above sea-level, and having
a flat summit of several acres in extent. The whole
mass somewhat resembles, in form, the rock on
which Edinburgh castle is built, projects into the
sea, and is almost separated from the land by a very
deep chasm, which served as a kind of natural fosse
or ditch; the adjacent rook having been scarped
and rendered inaccessible by art. The castle ruins
consist of a series of stately towers and other build-
ings occupying an extensive area, and rather re-
sembling a ruinous town than a dismantled fortress.
From its situation and extent this celebrated castle
forms one of the most majestic ruins in Scotland;
and, before the era of artillery, it must have been
impregnable. The only approach to it is by a steep
path winding round the body of the rock. The
entrance is through a gate, in a wall about 40 feet
high; whence, by a long passage, partly arched
over, and through another gate pierced with four
oeilettes or loop-holes, the area of the castle is
reached. This passage was also formerly strength-
ened by two iron portcullises. The area is sur-
rounded by an embattled wall, and occupied by
buildings of very different ages, which, though dis-
mantled, are, in general, tolerably entire, wanting
only roofs and floors. " The battlements, with their
narrow embrasures," says the author of 'A Summer
Ramble,' " the strong towers and airy turrets full of
loop-holes for the archer and the musketeer, — the
hall for the banquet, and the cell for the captive, —
are all alike entire and distinct. Even the iron
rings and bolts that held the culprits, for security
or torturo, still remain to attest the different order
of things which once prevailed in this country
DUNNOTTAK.
477
DUNOLLY
Many a sigh lias been sent from the profound bosom
of this vast rock, — many a despairing glance has
wandered hence over the boundless wave, — and
many a weary heart has there sunk rejoicing into
eternal sleep." The most ancient edifice, except the
chapel, is a square tower said to have been built
about the latter end of the 14th century. A large
range of lodging-rooms and olKces, with a long gal-
lery of 120 feet, seems to be of a very modem date,
— not older than the latter end of the 16th century.
There are ruins of various other biddings and conve-
niences necessary or proper for a garrison, such as
barracks, a basin or cistern of water 20 feet in di-
ameter, a bowling-green, and a forge said to have
been used for casting iron bullets.
The building now called the chapel was at one
time the parish-church; for, notwithstanding its
difficulty of access, the church, and even the burial-
place of the parish, were originally situated on the
top of this rock. During the contention between
Bruce and Baliol, the natural strength of the place
induced Sir William Keith, the great marischal of
Scotland, to build a castle on it as a refuge for him-
self and his friends during these troublesome times.
But, in order to avoid offence, he first built a church
for the parish in a more convenient place; notwith-
standing which, the bishop of St. Andrews excom-
municated him for violating sacred ground. Sir
William, on this, applied to Pope Benedict XIII.,
setting forth the exigency of the case, and the ne-
cessity of such a fortress, with the circumstance of
his having built another church; on which his ho-
liness issued his bull, dated 18th July, 1394, direct-
ing the bishop to take off the excommunication, and
to allow Sir William to enjoy the castle at all times,
on the payment of a certain recompense to the
church ; after which it continued in the Keith fa-
mily till the forfeiture of the late Earl in 1715.
About the year 1296 this castle was taken by Sir
AVilliam Wallace, who, according to his historian,
burnt 4,000 Englishmen in it. Blind Harry gives
the following very lively account of this achieve-
ment:— ■
44 The Englishmen, that durst them not abide
Before the host full fear'dly forth they flee
To Dunnotter, a swake within the sea.
No further they might win out of the land.
They 'sembled there while they were four thousand.
Ran to the kirk, ween'd girth to have tane.
The lave remained upon the rock of stane.
The bishop there began to treaty ma,
Their lives to get, out of the land to ga;
But they were rude, and durst not well.
Wallace in fire gart set all hastily.
Burnt up the kirk and all that w'as therein.
Attour the rock the lave ran with great din;
Some hung on crags, right dolefully to dee,
Some lap, some fell, some fluttered in the sea,
No Southern in life was left in that hold,
And them within they burnt to powder cold.
When this was done, feil fell on their knees down,
At the bishop asked absolution.
When Wallace leugh, said, I forgive you all ;
Are ye war-men, repent ye for so small?
They rued not us into the town of Air,
Our true barons when they hanged there!"
In 1336 the castle of Dunnottar was refortified
oy Edward III. in his progress through Scotland;
but, as soon as he had quitted the kingdom, it was
retaken by Sir Andrew Murray, the Eegent of Scot-
land. No further event of any historical interest or
importance in respect to this castle occurred for many
centuries afterwards, during which it was the chief
seat of the Marischal family. But, in the time of
the great civil war, it was besieged by the Marquis
of Montrose ; the Earl Marischal of that day being
a staunch Covenanter. The Earl had immured him-
self in his castle, together with a great many of his
partizans, including 16 covenanting clergymen who
had here sought refuge from Montrose. The Earl
would have come to terms witli Montrose; but he
was dissuaded by his ministerial party, and the
royalist at once subjected his property to military
cxeoution. Stonehaven and Cowie, which belonged
to the vassals of the Earl Marischal, were burnt;
the woods of Fetteresso shared the same fate; and
the whole of the lands in the vicinity were ravaged.
The Earl is said to have deeply regretted his rejec-
tion of Montrose's proposals, when he beheld the
smoke ascending from his property; "but the fa-
mous Andrew Cant, who was among the number of
his ghostly company, edified his resolution at once
to its original pitch of firmness, by assuring him
that that reek would be a sweet-smelling incense in
the nostrils of the Lord, rising, as it did, from pro-
perty which had been sacrificed to the holy cause of
the covenant."
During the Commonwealth, Dunnottar castle
was selected as the strongest place in the kingdom
lor the preservation of the regalia from the English
army, which then overran the country. These be-
ing deposited in this castle by order of the privy-
council, Earl Marischal obtained from the public a
garrison, with an order for suitable ammunition and
provisions. Cromwell's troops, under command of
Lambert, besieged the castle, which was put under
command of George Ogilvy of Barras, in the parish
of Dunnottar, as lieutenant-governor; the Earl
himself having joined the king's forces in England.
Ogilvy did not surrender till the siege had been
converted into a blockade, when he was reduced by
famine and a consequent mutiny in the garrison.
He had previously, however, removed the regalia by
a stratagem on account of which he was long im-
prisoned in England. Mrs. Granger, wife of the
minister of Kinneff1, had requested permission of
Major-general Morgan, who then commanded the
besieging army, to visit Mrs. Ogilvy, the lady of
the lieutenant-governor. Having obtained permis-
sion, Mrs. Granger, who was a resolute woman,
packed up the crown among some clothes, and car-
ried it out of the castle in her lap; her sen-ant maid,
at the same time, carrying the sword and sceptre on
her back, in a bag of flax. The English general
very politely assisted the lady to mount her horse.
The regalia was kept sometimes in the church ot
Kinneff, concealed under the pulpit, and at other
times in a double-bottomed bed at the manse, till
the Restoration, in 1660, when they were delivered
to Mr. George Ogilvy, who presented them to
Charles II. For this good service, with his long
imprisonment and loss of property, Ogilvy received
no farther mark of royal favour or reward than the
title of Baronet and a new coat-of-arms. Sir John
Keith, brother to the Earl of Marischal, was created
Earl of Kintore; but honest Mr. Granger and his
wife had neither honour nor reward.
Dunnottar was used, in the year 1685, as a state
prison for 167 Covenanters, males and females, who
had been seized at different times in the west of
Scotland, during the persecution under Charles II.
In the warmest season of the year they were all
barbarously thrust into a vault, still called ' the
Whig's vault,' where a number of them died.
About 25, in a state of desperation, crept one night
from the window, along the face of the awful preci-
pice, in the hope of escaping ; but two of these per-
ished in the attempt, and most of the others were
captured, and subjected to horrible tortures. Dun-
nottar castle was dismantled soon after the rebellion
of 1715, on the attainder of James Earl Marischal.
DUN-O'DEER, or Donideer. See Insch.
DUNOLLY, the mined ancient castle of the
Macdougals of Lorn, on the coast of the mainland
DUNOLLY.
478
DUNOLLY.
of the parish of Kilmore, about midway between
Dunstaffhage and Oban, and opposite the north end
of the island of Kerrera, in the district of Lorn, Ar-
gyleshire. " Nothing," says Sir Walter Scott, " can
be more wildly beautiful than the situation of Dun-
oily. The ruins are situated upon a bold and precipi-
tous promontory, overhanging Loch-Etive, and dis-
tant about a mile from the village and port of Oban.
The principal part which remains is the donjon, or
keep; but fragments of other buildings, overgrown
with ivy, attest that it had been once a place of im-
portance, as large apparently as Artornish or Dun-
staffnage. These fragments enclose a court-yard,
of which the keep probably formed one side ; the en-
trance being by a steep ascent from the neck of the
isthmus, formerly cut across by a moat, and defended
doubtless by outworks and a drawbridge. Beneath
the castle stands the present mansion of the family,
having on the one hand Loch-Etive, with its islands
and mountains; on the other two romantic emi-
nences tufted with copsewood. There are other
accompaniments suited to the scene; in particular,
a huge upright pillar, or detached fragment of that
sort of rock called plum-pudding stone, upon the
shore, about a quarter of a mile from the castle. It
is called Clach-na-cau, or the Dog's pillar, because
Fingal is said to have used it as a stake to which
he bound his celebrated dog Bran. Others say, that
when the Lord of the Isles came on a visit to the
Lord of Lom, the dogs brought for his sport were
kept beside this pillar. Upon the whole, a more
delightful and romantic spot can scarce be con-
ceived; and it receives a moral interest from the
considerations attached to the residence of a family
once powerful enough to confront and defeat Brace,
and now sunk into the shade of private life."
Dunolly is now possessed by Macdougal of that
ilk, the representative of the ancient family of this
name. Such is the traditionary reminiscence of the
dignity of Dunstaffhage, that, according to the in-
habitants of the district, Dunolly was little more
than one of the office-houses connected with the
palace. For, misled by similarity of sound, if not
partly by the love of the marvellous, as in Gaelic
ollamh — pronounced ollah — signifies ' a physician,'
it is received as an historical fact that the medical
practitioner who was attached to the royal family
had this castle allotted to him as his residence, the
name being rendered, ' the Fort of the physician.'
While, however, the absurdity of the idea appears,
not only from the distance, which must have ren-
dered it quite ineligible as a residence for one whose
services would be often required at a moment's
warning, but from the total improbability that a
place of such consequence would be assigned to any
officer of the court; it seems to be directly opposed
to historical proof of a far more authentic character
than the greatest part of that which our meagre re-
cords furnish in regard to so remote a period. Olaf
was a very common name among the Danes and
Norwegians. It appeared in different forms; as in
that of Aulaiv, Aulaf, Olave, Olo, and in Latin of
Olaus. Of this name there was a Scandinavian king
of Dublin, A. d. 853, and another, a. d. 959. Somer-
led, Thane of Argyle, and Lord of the Isles, who
flourished about the middle of the 12th century, mar-
ried a daughter of Olaus, King of Man. from whom
our genealogists deduce two dynasties, distinguished
in the stormy history of the middle ages, — the Lords
of the Isles, and the Lords of Lorn. As the Norse
princes — whether coming immediately from Nor-
way, from the Orkneys, from Ireland, or from Man
—made frequent descents on the western coasts and
islands of Scotland, it seems almost certain that the
name Dunolly signifies ' the Fortified hill of Olave.'
That it was a place of very considerable conse-
quence in that quarter, and had received this name,
even before the close of the 7th century, is unde-
niable, from the notice taken of it in that invalu-
able relic of antiquity, the Annals of Ulster. Here
it is mentioned, " a. d. 685. Combussit Tula aman
(sic) Duin Olla." It is afterwards said, — " 700.
The destruction of Dunaila by Selvach." — "713.
Dun Olla construitur apud Selvaon." — " 733. Tal-
organ filius Drostani comprehensus alligatur juxta
arcern Olla." — " 852. Aulay, King of Lochlin," i. e.
of Scandinavia, " came into Ireland, and all the fo-
reigners of Ireland submitted to him." In the old-
est map we have of Lom — that of Timothy Pont —
Dunolly is denominated Doun oldyf. Pinkerton
entertains the same idea as to the origin of the name.
In reference to one of the passages quoted from the
Annals of Ulster, in which the place is called Dun-
olla, he says: "This is surely the noted Castle in
Lorn." That excellent northern scholar Johnstone
gives the same explanation: — "Dun Oly, i. e.
Olave's tower. The place might receive this name,
from having been the residence of Olave, the young-
est son of Somerled, thane of Argyle."
There was discovered not long ago at Dunolly,
an interesting subject for antiquarian examination.
Some workmen employed in removing the soil from
a spot immediately under the rock upon which the
rains of the castle stand, and occupied for at least a
century past as garden ground, came, at the depth
of about five feet, to a bed of ashes covering a con-
siderable surface. A layer of loose stones, about
four feet deep, succeeded, and upon being removed,
showed the top of a wall of solid mason-work, run-
ning parallel with and closely attached to the castle
rock. Curiosity led to the removal of a part of the
wall, and the trouble was recompensed by discover-
ing the entrance to a spacious cavern, the whole in-
terior of which was ornamented with the most
beautiful stalactites. But — what will excite a deeper
feeling — the excavators found that they had broken
in upon the slumbers of the dead; for, placed regu-
larly round the bottom of the. cave, lay many mould-
ering remnants of mortality. In the centre of this
charnel-house was a large flag-stone covering an
opening not unlike a modern grave; but nothing
was found in it to disclose the purpose for which it
had been reserved. Among the ashes were the
bones of various animals, pieces of iron, remains of
broadswords, a few defaced coins, and other vestiges
of the hand of man. There is no existing tradition
of the cave, or the use to which it had been dedi-
cated.— Thomas Brydson, in his ' Pictures of the
Past,' has the following pleasing verses on Dunolly
castle:
" The breezes of this vernal day
Come whisp'ring through thine empty hall.
And stir, intead of tapestry,
The weed upon the wall;
And bring from out the murm'rinp; sea,
And bring from out the vocal wood,
The sound of nature's joy to thee,
Mocking thy solitude.
Yet proudly, 'mid the tide of years.
Thou lift'st on high thine airy form —
Scene of primeval hopes and fears —
Slow yielding to the storm I
From thy gray portal oft at morn,
The ladies and the squires would go.
While swell'd the hunter's bugle-horn
In the green glen below;
And minstrel-harp, at starry night.
Woke the high strain of battle hero,
When with a wild and stern delight
The warriors stoop'd to hear.
DUNOON.
479
DUNOON.
All fled for ever! leaving nought
Save lonely walls in ruin green,
Which dimly lead my wnnd'ring thought
To moments that have been.*'
DUNOON, a parish, comprehending the ancient
parishes of Dnnorm and Kilmnn, and containing the
post-town of Dunoon, the post-oflice villages of
Kilmun, Ardintcnny, and Inellan, and the post-
office station of Toward, in the district of Cowal,
Argyleshire. It is hounded, on the east, by Loch
Long and the frith of Clyde; on the south, by the
Kyles of Bute; and on other sides, by the parishes
of Inverchaolain, Kilmodan, Strachur, and Loch-
goilhead. Its length southward, in a straight line,
is about 18 miles; but, measured along the coast,
from near the entrance of Loch Goil to Ardyne-
point, is at least 30 miles. Its breadth at the ex-
tremities contracts almost to a point, but elsewhere
varies from 2 miles to 9 miles. Its superficial ex»
tent is about 180 square miles; of which about
2,200 acres are under wood, and not more than 2,800
acres are either regularly or occasionally in tillage.
Holv Loch, an arm of the frith of Clyde, almost im-
mediately contiguous to the entrance of Loch Long,
penetrates the land about 2 miles, nearly at right
angles with the general direction of the coast, and
forms the division between the ancient parish of
Kilmun on the north and the ancient parish of Dun-
oon on the south.
" The general aspect of the united parish, when
viewed from the frith of Clyde or from its opposite
coast," says Dr. Mackay in the New Statistical Ac-
count, "presents a bold and even grand collection
of hill and valley, with a smoother sloping aspect
toward the sea coast, along the greater part of its
extent. Its wild grouping of hills, scarcely in gen*
eral aspiring to belong to the mountain class, as at
least compared with many other portions of High-
land scenery, may be said more to possess dignity
than grandeur. Taken in detail, its features become
more interesting and perhaps singular. These are
found to be formed, taking the general lineaments,
by five separate or distinct hilly or mountainous
ranges. There is, first, that to the north of Glen-
finart, running nearly from east to west; next, the
range running almost at right angles with the
former, embracing a considerable portion of Kil-
mun parish, diminishing gradually in height to-
wards and terminating in the point of Strone,
separating Loch Long from the Holy Loch, and
presenting its steepest acclivity immediately behind
the village of Kilmun lying on the eastern shore of
the Holy Loch. We have, as the third of these
ranges, Benmore, with its neighbouring hills stretch-
ing to the north -west and south-west, rising abruptly
and boldly from the valley of the Eachaig and the
place of Benmore, forming in part the steep and
wild western banks of Loch Eck and the northern
side of Glenmassan. The fourth range, running
nearly from east to west, forms the south side of
Olenmassan, and the northern side of Glenlean.
The fifth of these groups runs southward from Glen-
lean, forming the summit range of the territory
comprising the parish of Dunoon proper, rising to
its highest elevation towards the centre, westward
of the village of Dunoon, in the hill denominated
the Bishop's Seat, and terminating abruptly in the
striking hill of Buacb.aill-itb.ean, on the estate of
Castle-Toward ; both the latter, as well as Benmore,
commanding a magnificent view of the neighbour-
ing counties and the western islands. The most
striking feature of these mountain or hilly ranges is
their wild and bold irregularity, both of position and
appearance. Benmore is considered the highest of
the hills of Cowal, and has been estimated at 2,500
feet above the level of the sea; and Buachaill-ithean,
by measurement, has been found 1,220 feet. The
whole of the other ranges in the parish are of in-
ferior height to Benmore; but their steep acclivities,
and the abrupt and rugged breaks occurring, both
separating and intersecting them at numerous
points, render their appearance imposing, and, on
more detailed inspection, exceedingly interesting."
Five valleys or glens, corresponding to the five
principal mountain-ranges, " present another gen-
eral feature of the parish still more diversified and
interesting, exhibiting in detail local scenery of
softer shades and of milder forms than could be an-
ticipated from a more distant view of the general
aspect of the territory, as seen from any point be
yond its own limits." But by far the most impor-
tant of these valleys, and the only one which need
be particularly mentioned, is that which commences
at the head of the Holy Loch, and is there about
2 miles broad, — and extends up the course of the
rivulet Eachaig, about 4 miles, to Loch Eck, where
it has a summit-altitude of only about 18 feet above
the level of the sea, — and continues thence north-
westward, along the basin of that lake, and through
the parish of Strachur, quite across Cowal, to Loch
Fyne. See Eck (Loch).
The sea-board of the united parish is compara-
tively smooth, and exhibits great profusion of arti-
ficial feature. Not less than six miles of it are
skirted along the beach with arrays of beautiful
houses, either constituting the villages, or spreading
thickly away from their wings; and the greater
part of it, both behind the villages and elsewhere,
is either feathered with wood, or adorned with culti-
vation,— " showing either the variegated shades of
natural copse, in which the oak prevails, or the
richer appearance of planting and enclosures, with
well-cultivated fields." The Kilmun part goes soon
and steeply up the hills, yet even this abounds in
ornamentation; and the Dunoon part has consider-
able spaces of comparative level, rises in a slower
and more gradual acclivity, and presents a corre-
spondingly great variety of artificial beauty. So
rich is the array of villas that miles of it might be a
worthy suburb to the most opulent city in the world.
The whole sea-board, together with the russet
heights above it, is a gallery of pictures hung up
along the frith; and at the same time, hundreds of
points on it command a magnificent viewr of the
frith itself, and a large portion of its screens, from
Helensburgh to Ailsa Craig.
The hills of the parish consist principally of mica
slate and clay slate. Part of the shore on the south
shows the old red sandstone; and a place at To-
ward-point contains a narrow bed of limestone. The
soil in general is light. Agricultural improvement
has been greater in Dunoon proper than in Kilmun ;
insomuch that, a few years ago, the average rent of
arable land in the former was £1 16s., and in the
latter only £1 4s. The live stock in the United
parish is estimated at 20,000 sheep, 1,130 black
cattle, and 200 horses. There are upwards of
twelve principal landowners. The real rental is
upwards of £9,000. Assessed property in 1860,
£34,889 0s. Od. The principal mansions are To-
ward-castle, at Toward-point, a splendid edifice in
the modern Gothic style; Hafton-house, on the
west side of the Holy Loch, spacious and brilliant,
in mixed modern Gothic; Glenflnart-house, in Glen-
finart, in the mixed English manor-house style;
Benmore-house, in beautiful grounds at the foot of
Benmore; and the Castle-house of Dunoon, con-
tiguous to the old Castle of Dunoon, and an orna-
ment to the town. There is a gunpowder mill at
Glenlean. Not fewer than three distilleries were
DUNOON.
480
DUNOON.
not long ago erected; but they all proved failures.
There are about 50 miles of public road within the
parish; and abundant communication is enjoyed
from no fewer than eight points of its coast by the
Clyde steamers. Population in 1831, 2,416; in
1861, 5,461. Houses, 979.
Dunoon is the seat of a presbytery, in the synod
of Argyle. It is said to be one of the most ancient
parishes in Scotland. The parish of Kilmun was
united to it, both quoad sacra and quoad civilia, by
the court of teinds at a date not known. Patron,
the Duke of Argyle. Stipend, £275 2s. Id.; glebe,
£36 17s. There is an assistant minister, who re-
sides at Kilmun, and is paid partly by the parish
minister, and partly by voluntary contribution from
the parishioners. There are two parish churches,
respectively at Dunoon and at Kilmun. The
Dunoon church was built in 1816, and enlarged in
1834 and 1839, and contains 838 sittings. The Kil-
mun church was built in 1841, and contains 450
sittings. There are two chapels of ease, the one at
Inellan, and the other near Toward-point. There
are three Free churches, respectively at Dunoon,
at Kilmun, and at Ardentinny. Attendance at
the Dunoon Free church, about 360; sum raised
in 1865, £857 lis. 6|d. Attendance at the Kilmun
Free church, about 300 ; sum raised in 1865,
£197 Is. lOd. There is a United Presbyterian
church at Dunoon, built in 1828, and containing 280
sittings. There is also an Episcopalian chapel
in Dunoon, with 180 sittings. There are three
parochial schools, at respectively Dunoon, Kilmun,
and Toward. Salary of the Dunoon schoolmaster,
£45 ; of the Kilmun schoolmaster, £45 ; of the To-
ward schoolmaster, £22. There are also Assembly's
schools at Dalilongard and Ardintenny, a female
school of industry at Dunoon, Free church schools
at Dunoon and Kilmun, and three other schools.
The Town of Dunoon, together with the continu-
ations of it along the coast, extends at least four
miles, from Sandbank opposite Kilmun, to the south
side of Bawkie hay opposite Cloch-point. But the
nucleus of it adjoins the site of its ancient castle, 2
miles south by west of the south side of the en-
trance of Holy Loch, 2J west-north-west of Cloch-
point, and 8 west of Greenock. Only a small part
of the town is strictly compact, or has a street
character. Even part of its nucleus, and nearly the
whole of its continuations, are either rows of cot-
tages, chains of villas, or airy assemblages of house
and mansion, spread freely out among gardens or
athwart the slopes, without any reference whatever
to the business conveniences of a town, but with en-
tire reference to the open breezes of the sea-beach and
the country. The southward continuation around
Bawkie bay comprises as rich a string of marine
villas as any in Scotland. The northward continu-
ation, all the way to the very cheek of the Holy
Loch, looks from the water like a mosaic of neat
houses and garden plots, lying from the margin of
the beach a considerable way up the hill face. The
beach in most parts, particularly around Bawkie
bay, is particularly good for bathers; and the walks
accessible to the public are extensive and pictur-
esque.
At the nucleus of the town, or immediately north
of Bawkie bay, a small headland, rising into a rocky
knoll, projects into the frith, and forms a natural
military strength. This was the site of the ancient
castle of Dunoon. Contiguous to its point, on the
north side, is a wooden jetty, erected in 1835, by a
private joint-stock company, extending 130 yards
from the shore, having at its extremity a depth of
seven feet of water at the lowest tide, and serving
rjonveniently for the use of steamers, even for goods
and cattle, but particularly for passengers. Another
landing place, at which the steamers call, is situated
about 1J mile north of this, at a part of the town
called the Kirn ; and a third occurs at the mouth of
the Holy Loch, near the end of the northern con-
tinuation, in the vicinity of Hafton-house, the
splendid property of the family of Hunter, and
called, on that account, Hunter's-quay. The parish
church, on a conspicuous situation, opposite the
jetty, is a very handsome edifice, in the modem
Gothic style, with a tower. The other places of
worship are neat buildings. An extensive-range of
stores, surrounded by a high wall, on the shore of
the Holy Loch opposite Kilmun, was erected by
government about fifty years ago, as a lazaretto, in
connection with a quarantine station in the loch, —
a thing more suitable for Turkey than for the Clyde,
— for a barbarous people than for a civilized nation,
— and happily discovered years ago to be as un-
necessary as it was hideous.
The original Dunoon castle probably belonged to
the period of the Dalriadic colonists; and, even
though it may have been a rude building, it must,
in consequence of its situation, have been a powerful
aid to them in holding possession of Cowal. This
original castle may, in the course of time, have been
either repaired in itself or succeeded by another. But
the eventual castle does not appear to have dated
earlier than the 14th century, or perhaps the 15th;
and even this has been so demolished, first by the
ordinary accidents of time, next by abandonment to
neglect, and lastly by the abstraction of its materials
for the building of cottages in the neighbourhood,
that scarcely any vestiges of it, except the mere
substructions, now remain. It appears to have con-
sisted of three towers, — one looking up the frith,
another in an opposite direction, and a third guard-
ing the approach from the land. The first of these
is the only one of which there are any distinct traces.
It has been of a circular form. On the side parallel
with the frith, maybe seen the remains of a small
entrance, which it is supposed must have served as
a sally-port and a place of escape in cases of emer-
gency. It is believed that there are still a number
of vaulted apartments, pretty entire, under the ruins.
The site of the castle includes about an acre of
ground; and is much broader at the base, where it
fronts the frith, than behind. The received belief
of the vicinity is, that there was a nunnery, at a
little distance from the castle, where stands the
present church. In support of this hypothesis, it
has been urged, that on clearing away the ruins of
a chapel — part of which composed the old church —
when the workmen began to pull down the gable,
they discovered a beautiful Gothic window which
had previously been so built up and plastered as to
be indiscernible. But this proves nothing as to the
existence of a nunnery; as it may reasonably be
supposed that the chapel, appropriated to the wor-
ship of the inhabitants of the castle, would be fin-
ished in the best style of the age. There is no ves-
tige, in our monastic history, of any nunnery in this
district. Near the castle stood the Tom-a-mhoid, oi
' the hill of the court of justice,' the same which is
elsewhere called ' the mote-hill.' Here also was the
gallow-hill, the name of which sufficiently indicates
its appropriation. Another place, still denominat-
ed the cuspars, or the butts, marks the scene of the
ancient archery. The privilege of a ferry was grant-
ed to the heritable keepers of this castle, on con-
dition of their supplying the garrison with certain
provisions.
The castle of Dunoon belonged for some time to
the hereditary high-stewards of Scotland, to whom
Malcolm gave a grant of Bute and Cowal. in the
DUNOON.
481
DUNREGGAN.
lull century. According to our historians, indeed,
Walter, the son of Fleancc, having adhered to the
interests' of Malcolm Canmorc, not only received
from him the baronies of Renfrew and Kyle, but
was made Lord of Bute and Cowal, thon at the
king's disposal, in consequence of an insurrection
of the islanders in quelling which ho acted as his
Majesty's lieutenant and commander-in-chief. In
reward for his services, he was also made Dapifer
Regis. His son Alan was by King Edgar con-
stituted Senescallus Scotia?, or Great-steward of
Scotland, whence originated the family name. Dun-
oon remained in the possession of the Stewarts till
the reign of David II., who, in consequence of the
insurrection of Edward Baliol, a. d. 1333, had
deserted the throne. Baliol having overrun the
country, among other fortresses took Dunoon. His
despicable surrender of the kingdom to Edward III.
so disgusted the nobles, that some of them rose in
defence of their liberties; and Robert the Steward,
who had lain concealed in Bute, resolved to stand
forth in the public cause. He escaped to Cowal,
and, aided by Colin Campbell of Lochow, one of the
ancestors of the family of Argyle, made himself
master of the castle of Dunoon, a. d. 1334. In
reward of his faithful service, Campbell was made
hereditary governor, and had the grant of certain
lands for the support of his dignity. Robert, the
first king of the Stewart family, succeeding David
II., the castle would henceforth be viewed in the
more honourable light of a palace. In the year
1544, the Earl of Lennox, anxious to obtain the
regency, and having received the support of Henry
VIII., appeared in the frith of Clyde with 18 vessels
and 800 soldiers. Having made himself master of
Rothesay, he proceeded to Dunoon. Here he met
with powerful opposition from Archibald Earl of
Argyle ; but the latter was obliged to retreat with
loss, being unable to resist the force of Lennox's
artillery. The whole estate was consolidated by
entail in the person of Archibald the 1st Duke, A. D.
1706. Mary in 1563, paid a visit at Dunoon to her
favourite sister the Countess of Argyle, the natural
daughter of James V. While here, she is said to
have employed herself in the diversion of deer-hunt-
ing, and to have availed herself of the opportunity
to grant charters to her vassals. How long Dunoon
continued to be the residence of the Argyle family
is uncertain. Pennant says: — " Inverary was in-
habited about the latter end of the 14th century by
Colin, surnamed Tongollach, or ' the Wonderful,' on
account of his marvellous exploits, and I may add,
his odd whims; among which, and not the least,
may be reckoned the burning of his house at Inver-
ary on receiving a visit from the O'Neils of Ireland,
that he might have pretence to entertain his illus-
trious guests in his magnificent field-equipage.
The great tower — which was standing till very
lately — was built by the black Sir Colin, for his
nephew, the 1st Earl of Argyle, at that time a minor.
I do not discover any date to ascertain the time of
its foundation, any further than that it was prior to
the year 1480, the time of Sir Colin's death. In
December 1644, amidst the snows of this severe
climate, the enterprising Montrose poured down
his troops on Inverary through ways its chieftain
thought impervious." It would appear, therefore,
that Dunoon was only the occasional residence of
the Argyle family; as they were the hereditary
keepers of this palace. Dunoon also was, for some
time, the residence of the bishops of Argyle, at least
occasionally, after the restoration of episcopacy in
the reign of Charles II.; and some ruins of their
house were, not many years ago, still visible in the
vicinity of the church.
T.
The original castle must have drawn some inha-
bitants to its neighbourhood for the purposes of
protection and traffic. Many vassals, first of the
Stewarts and next of the family of Argyle, and
perhaps some retainers also of the bishops, after-
wards built houses near it, that they miglit be at
hand to attend the court. But especially the an-
cient ferry here, becoming the principal communi-
cation between Cowal and the Lowlands, created
such traffic as materially to extend the population.
Hence, in the early part of the 18th century, the
village of Dunoon was a considerable place; but,
being then dependent on the ferry chiefly, and a
new road being opened round the head of Loch
Long, and on by Loch Lomond, to form a readier
communication with the rising seats of trade in the
fluviatile Clyde, the village afterwards went rapidly
into decay, till it sank to the condition of a High-
land clachan; in which it continued till 1822. " In
that year," says Dr. Maekay, " there were not more
than three or four slated houses in it, besides the
parish church and manse. As the power of steam
became subservient to the purposes of navigation,
and the first steamers built began to venture beyond
Greenock, and to dare the dangers of crossing the
frith, — esteemed no ordinary measure of boldness
at that time, — individuals, and a few families from
Glasgow, began to resort to Dunoon as a summer
residence. The number was but small, indeed, who
could find any accommodations to suit them. In
1822, James Ewing, Esq., then of Glasgow, com-
menced building the marine villa called, since, the
Castle-house, on the grounds immediately adjoining
Dunoon castle. The taste displayed in the erection of
his villa, and in the laying out of the grounds around
it, pointed out to others the advantages of the lo-
cality, of which several individuals of respectability
soon availed themselves; and the village has since
gone on increasing."
Several justices of peace reside in Dunoon.
Sheriff small debt courts are held four times a-year.
The town has a branch office of the Union Bank
of Scotland, a national security savings' bank,
offices of five insurance companies, two circulating
libraries, a horticultural society, and a curling club.
Steamers to and from Glasgow touch several times
a-day in winter, and almost every hour, or oftener,
from morning till night, in summer. Population in
1844, 1,296; in 1861, 2,968. Houses, 543. But
the population thus given is the ordinary population,
which is at least doubled during summer.
DUNPENDER. See TnAPRAra Law.
DUNPHAIL, an estate in the parish of Eden-
killie, and nearly up to the sources of the Divie,
Morayshire. It abounds in fine scenery, and com-
prises about 800 acres of wood. The modem mansion
is a splendid edifice in the Venetian style, built in
1829, and enlarged in 1842. The ancient residence
was a fortalice on the summit of a steep conical
hill, accessible only on one side, and protected
round the other sides by a narrow romantic ravine,
which is supposed to have been at one time the
channel of the Divie. This fortalice resisted a siege
by Randolph Earl of Moray, after the battle of the
Standard; but it is now a rain. The estate of Dun-
phail anciently belonged to the Cummings, and now
belongs to their representative Mr. Gumming Bruce.
DUNREGGAN, a village in the parish of Glen-
cairn, Dumfries-shire, 16J miles north-west of Dum-
fries. It is situated on Dalwhat water, on the op-
posite bank from Minnyhive, and communicates
with that village by a stone bridge. It not long
ago underwent considerable improvement in its
houses and general appearance. Population, 277.
Houses, 58.
2 F
DUNROBIN CASTLE.
482
DUNROSSNESS.
DUNRICHUAN. See Dores.
DUNROBIN CASTLE, a palatial seat of the
Duke of Sutherland, in the parish of Golspie, Su-
therlandshire. It stands on a moat overlooking the
sea, 2 miles north-east of Golspie, and 4 south-west
of Brora. It consists of an old plain pile, erected
in 1275, by Robert Earl of Sutherland, from whom
it took its name, and of an extensive elaborate mass
of splendid additions, raised in 1847, in anticipation
of a visit from the Queen. " This castle," said the
Messrs. Anderson in 1851, " is beautifully sur-
rounded with trees, in which are concealed two
older burghs or dunes attributed to the Danes.
The view from the top of the tower, the paintings
in the public rooms, and especially the series of
old Scottish portraits, and the elegant breed of
Highland cattle for which the parks of Dunrobin
are celebrated, rendered the old castle as it stood
some years ago, worthy of admiration. But now it
has become, by recent additions, one of the most
princely palaces in the kingdom, and undoubtedly
one of the largest in Scotland. Among the multi-
tude of high towers and fretted pinnacles the old
castle is almost lost, except on the seaward side,
where its humble but dignified old tower and plain
front form the western comer of the building. East
of these, a magnificent elevation of four storeys,
springing from a terraced basement, and pierced
with rows of oriel and plain windows, beautifully
finished with varied tabling, forms an extensive
frontage which rises to a great height, and over
which a number of towers, turrets, and minarets
reach up into the sky, backed on the north by the
lofty and very steep roof of the great entrance tower,
which is at least 100 feet high. The general char-
acter of the whole building is that of a very large
French chateau or German palace, with details
in the scroll work and roofs of the chambers, bor-
rowed from the best old Scottish models. The
grand entrance and staircase are lined within with
polished Caen stone; but the exterior is all of a hard
white silicious freestone from Brora and Braambury
Hill on the Duke's own property. Internally the
castle is arranged into suites of apartments, each
containing a complete set of sitting rooms and bed
chambers, and named the Duke's, the Argyle,
the Blantyre apartments, and those of other mem-
bers of the family ; and each suite has its own pe-
culiar stylo and colour of decorations and painting.
The grand seaward front has been appropriated to
Her Majesty, whose apartments are separated from
the rest of the palace by a wide gallery or pas-
sage. They are done up in the most costly and
elegant manner, with silk tapestry hangings in
some of the rooms instead of papering. From the
oriel window of her bedroom, Her Majesty will
command, in one view, the whole circuit of her do-
minions, from Ben Wyvis in Ross, round by the
Alps of Inverness, Moray, and Aberdeen shires, and
across the firth almost to the Ord of Caithness, which
is concealed from view only by a projecting head-
land, while the mid-distance is beautifully varied
by the yellow sands of the Dornoch firth, and the
rocky promontory and high bright lighthouse on
Tarbetneso. Extensive as the buildings are, the
entire design will not be finished until another
tower or two and the family chapel are added; and
in the former of which we presume it is intended to
have a great feudal receiving room." A massive
rampart wall extends along the sea frontage, a
length of 300 feet, with bastions at the ends; and
successive broad flights of steps conduct down a
wooded bank to the flower gardens, situated between
the castle-terrace and the sea.
DUNROD, an ancient parish on the coast of
Kirkcudbrightshire. It was long a vicarage of
Holyrood, and was united, a little after the middle
of the 17th century, to Kirkcudbright. It forms the
southern part of the present united parish. Its
cemetery, situated nearly 3J miles from the town of
Kirkcudbright, continues to be used, and marks the
site of the church at the western base of an oblong
hill, which once may have exhibited a red appear-
ance,— the word Dunrod meaning the reddish hill.
A considerable population formerly resided here;
but now not many houses remain in the neighbour-
hood.
_ DUNROD, an old barony in the parish of Inner-
kip, Renfrewshire. The hill whence the name pro-
bably arose is still called Dunrod hill, and figures
prominently in the grounds of the Shaws water. A
streamlet of the old barony also still bears the
name of Dunrod burn, and is bestridden by a very
ancient bridge, interesting to antiquaries. The
progenitor of the barons of Dunrod was Sir James
Lindsay, the constant companion of King Robert
the Bruce; and the last of the barons flourished and
fell in the 17th century, but lives in tradition as a
wicked tyrant who sank into poverty under the
weight of his crimes, — and in balladry as a low
impostor in the guise of a great warlock. An old
rhymer says, —
" In Auldkirk the witches ride thick,
And in Dunrod they dwell;
The greatest loon among them a'
Is auld Dunrod himsel."
See Kilbride (East).
DUNROSSNESS, a parish in the south of Shet-
land. It comprehends the ancient parishes of Dun-
rossness, Sandwich, and Coningsburgh; and con-
tains three post-office stations of the same names.
The main body of it is the southern part of the
mainland, to the length of about 18 miles in a
straight line, bounded on the north by Lerwick, and
on all other sides by the sea. The other chief ap-
purtenances of it are the inhabited island of Mousa
in the north-east, the inhabited island of Fair Isle
far to the south, Cross island immediately on the
south-west, and the pastoral islands of Co'lsay and
St. Ninian on the west. The chief creeks are Quen-
dal-voe, West-voe, Grutness, and Aith's-voe. Sum-
burgh-head, a bold high rock composed of indurated
sandstone, in N. lat. 59° 51', and W. long. 1° 16',
is the southern promontory. There is a light-house
upon it showing a fixed light, elevated 300 feet
above high water, and seen at the distance of 24
miles in clear weather. See Sumburgh-Head and
Fair Isle. The island of St. Ninian, though now
occupied only by cattle, is connected with the main-
land at low water by a sandy beach, and was for-
merly the site of a church. It is said that the cap-
tain of a Dutch vessel, being nearly lost in a storm
at sea, vowed, that if he was preserved from the dan-
gers that threatened him, he would build a church
on the first land at which he should arrive. This
island was the spot to which he first came, and here
he built a church which he consecrated to St.
Ninian. There are the remains of another church
on a projecting headland called Ireland-head,
not far from this. There are several small lakes
which abound with fish. Attempts were made to
mine copper at Fitfill and Sand-lodge, but they
proved unsuccessful. Much land has been destroy-
ed by sand-drifts; }7et there has been an increase
of population, rather than a decrease, occasioned by
reclamation of waste lands and improvement of the
fishery. Population in 1831, 4,405; in 1861,4,830.
Houses, 909. Assessed property in 1843, £1,664
17s. Id.
This parish is in the presbytery of Lerwick, and
DUNSCORE.
483
DUNSE.
synod of Shetland. Patron, the Karl of Zetland.
Stipend, £208 6s. 8d.; glebe, £8. Unappropriated
tcinds £53 18s. 4d. Schoolmaster's salary is £35,
besides £8 fees. The parisli church was built in
1790, and contains 858 sittings. There is a govern-
ment church in Sandwick, built in 1807, and con-
taining 504 sittings. There are a Free church in
Coningsburgh, and a Free church preaching-station
in Dunrossness : receipts in 18G5 of the former, £46
9s. 4d.,— of the latter, £20 7s. 3d. There are a Wes-
leyan Methodist chapel, and an Independent chapel
in Sandwick, and two Baptist places of worship in
Dunrossness. The parochial school is in Sandwick.
There is a Society's school in Coningsburgh. There
are adventure schools in various parts. There are
parochial libraries in Dunrossness, Coningsburgh,
and Sandwick.
DUNSCAICH. See Skye.
DUNSCORE, a parish, containing a post-office
station of its own name, and the village of Cottack,
on the western border of Nithsdale, Dumfries-shire.
It is bounded by Kirkcudbright-shire, and by the
parishes of Glencaim, Keir, Kirkmahoe, and Holy-
wood. Its outline is an oblong, extending eastward
to the Nith, but compressed almost to bisection in
the middle. Its greatest length is llj miles; and
its breadth varies from less than J of a mile to about
3f miles. The surface in the upper or western
district is rocky and mountainous, but slopes down
toward a central glen; in the lower or eastern dis-
trict, it consists chiefly of three diverging vales,
with their intermediate hills ; but toward or along
the eastern boundary, it becomes somewhat open,
and is beautified by the meanderings of the Nith
and the luxuriance of its holms. The glen of the
west is traversed by Gleneslin water, and is 4 miles
in length, and toward the boundary becomes rocky
and barren. The hills which enclose it are heathy,
and fit only for pasture; and one of them, called
Bogrie hill, rises 1,200 feet above the level of the
sea. The Cairn intersects the parish at its nar-
rowest part; but previous and subsequent to the
intersection, it forms the western boundary line for
about 3 miles. It is here a more rapid stream than
the Nith, which it soon afterwards joins; and after
rain or thaw, it sometimes comes down with an
impetuosity which very suddenly swells the brook
into a torrent. Dalgonar bridge, erected over it
above where it intersects the parish, is 80 feet in
span. The Nith, touching the eastern district for
about 2 miles, sparkles along in its usual brilliance,
and is gay and joyous in the adorning of its banks.
The loch and water of Urr form the western bound-
ary line, hut are shut in by rugged, heathy uplands.
The soil along the Nith and the Cairn is rich allu-
vial loam ; in the higher districts, it is, in general,
a light, stony loam, upon a till bottom; and, in con-
siderable tracts, it is a spongy or a heathy moss.
About one third of the entire parochial area has never
been cultivated, and, with only trivial exceptions, is
incapable of cultivation ; and about 440 acres of the
remainder are under wood. The yearly value of raw
produce was estimated in 1835 at £15,989 15s. 8d.
The landowners are numerous. The Glasgow and
South-western railway passes near the east end of
the parish along the Nith, and is accessible at the near
station of Auldgirth. The parish is also traversed
across that end by the turnpike from Dumfries to
Glasgow; along the vale of the Caim, by the road
from Dumfries to Minnyhive ; and from east to west,
through its whole length, by a road leading into
Galloway.
The old tower of Lag, situated at Haliday hill,
and now a rain, is said to have been built in the
reign of James III., and was protected by an outer
wall and a ditch. It is square and narrow, but
massive and towering. Its last inhabitant was Sir
Kobert Grierson, of infamous memory, for the san-
guinary part he acted in the persecution of the
Covenanters. In the upper part of the vale of Glen-
eslin, overlooking a gorge or narrow pass, are the
two square towers of Bogrie and Sundaywell. The
latter belonged, in the times of the persecution, to
a man whose memory is odoriferous in tradition,
John Kirk, who opened his stronghold as a refuge
to the persecuted, and afforded frequent shelter and
assistance to Blackadder and other ejected ministers.
From the deep mountain seclusions in its vicinity,
often did the appealing psalmody of ' a conventicle'
arise, and echo away along the glens. Friar's Carse,
in the vale of the Nith, was anciently a monastic
establishment, dependent on Melrose abbey. Though
only some detached antiquely sculptured stones
remain as vestiges of the edifice, the name is com-
memorated both in a small lake and in the surround-
ing estate. Adjoining this property is the farm of
Ellisland, celebrated as the residence of the poet
Burns during the palmiest days of his career; and
painted for a place in the gallery of fame, by the
limnings of his poetic pencil. Dr. Crichton, a pro-
prietor of Friar's Carse subsequent to James Biddle,
Esq., the contemporary of Burns, bequeathed to
Dumfries £100,000, with which a county lunatic
asylum has been erected. The celebrated John
Welsh, son-in-law to John Knox, was a native of
Dunscore. Population of the parish in 1831, 1,488.
in 1861, 1,554. Houses, 281. Assessed property in
1860, £9,881.
This parish is in the presbytery and synod of
Dumfries. Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £170 18s.
8d. ; glebe, £42 10s. There are three parochial
schools: the master of Dunscore receives £25, the
master of Burnhead £30, and the master of Glenes-
lin £25, and in various division the proceeds of
£600 of mortifications. The parish church stands
at Cottack, was built in 1823, and contains 850 sit-
tings. There are in the parish a Free church, an
United Presbyterian church, and a Reformed Pres-
byterian church, the first with an attendance of
about 280, the second with an attendance of about
130. Receipts of the Free church in 1865, £203 16s.
The church of Dunscore belonged very early to the
monks of Holyrood; and, for a time, it stood on
litigated ground between them and the monks of
Melrose. Before the Reformation, this parish had
several places of worship. One of these, situated
on Gleneslin water, can still be traced in the vesti-
ges of its walls, and is commemorated in the name
of a farm called the Chapel. The old parish-church
stood five miles to the eastward of the present
one ; and its cemetery — containing the remains of
Grierson of Lag, and of several families of note — is
still in use.
DUN'S DISH. See Dun.
DUNSE, a parish, containing a post town of its
own name, nearly in the centre of Berwickshire.
It is bounded by Longformacus, Abbey St. Bathan's,
Buncle, Edrom, and Langton. Its length south-
eastward is about 6 miles ; and its average breadth
is about 3J miles. The northern division, compris-
ing about one-third of the area, is clothed in a
heathy dress, variegated with stripes of pastoral
green and autumnal yellow; and running up the
acclivity of the Lammermoor hills, sends aloft near
the boundary, the conspicuous cone of Coekburnlaw
912 feet above the level of the ocean. See Cock-
bckxlaw. The southern division undulates along
the valley of the Merse, with, in general, a delight-
fully rolling surface, a rich and fertile soil, and an
ample adorning of culture and grove. Dunse law.
DUNSE.
484
DUNSE.
north of the town of Dunse, has a base of between
2 and 3 miles in circumference, and rises in a grad-
ual ascent on all sides, till it terminates in a plain
of nearly 30 acres, 630 feet above the level of the
sea. Its table-summit was the site of the original
town or village, and is still tracked by the vestiges
of the intrenched camp of the army of Covenanters,
under General Leslie, who here sat down to watch
the warlike movements of Charles for enforcing
prelacy. Whitadder water comes down upon the
parish at its north-eastern angle, and forms its
boundary-line over a distance of 2 A miles. A brook
called Langton burn flows down from the west, and
forms the whole of the southern boundary-line,
falling into the Blackadder at the point of leaving
the parish. An artificial lake, in the vicinity of
Dunse castle, abounds with perch and eels, and
forms a smiling feature in the landscape. A moss
skirts the south side of the town, stretching from
east to west, and, except by one pathway, was in
ancient times impassable. Another moss — cele-
brated for the murder of the Chevalier de la Beaute
by Home of Wedderburn, and called, from the name
of the victim whose blood it drank, Batties bog —
stretches along the confines of the parish of Edrorn.
About one half of the entire parochial area is in
cultivation ; about one-twelfth is under wood ; and
most of the remainder is hill pasture. There are
thirteen principal landowners; and three of them
are resident in respectively Dunse castle, Wedder-
burn castle, and Manderston. Dunse castle, situ-
ated a little north-west of the town, is a magnifi-
cent modern Gothic edifice, agglomerated with a
surviving tower of an earlier and ancient structure,
believed to have been built by Randolph, Earl of
Moray. Wedderburn castle, at the south-east limit
of the parish, and Manderston, 1 J mile north of the
former, are elegant mansions, surrounded by taste-
fully ornamented demesnes. Dunse was formerly
scourged by pestilence, and so late as a century
ago, was depopulated by ague and putrid fever;
but, in consequence of rapid improvements in drain-
ing and cultivating the soil, it attained a healthy
climate. Four lines of road diverge from the town
nearly in the direction of the cardinal points ; and
lead the way through the parish respectively toward
Edinburgh, Berwick, Coldstream, and Lauder. A
branch of the North British railway also commences
at the gas works on the south side of the town, and
proceeds by way of Cairnbank, and between Wed-
derburn and Manderston, and through the parishes
of Edrom and Chirnside, to a junction with the main
line at Reston in the parish of Coldingham. Dunse
is rich in the fame of distinguished natives, boast-
ing names of no less eclat among scholars and
divines than those of John Duns Scotus, ' the an-
gelic doctor,' — Thomas Boston, the well-known
author of 'The Fourfold State,' — Dr. Thomas
M'Crie, the biographer of Knox and Melville, — Dr.
Abraham Robertson, Savilian professor of astronomy
At Oxford, — and Sir Joseph Paxton, the architect of
the Crystal palace. Population in 1831, 3,469; in
1861, 3,595. Houses, 533. Assessed property in
1864, £22,495 5s. 9d.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Merge and Teviotdale. Patron, Hay of
Dunse-castle. Stipend, £306 10s. 2d. ; glebe, £35.
Unappropriated teinds, £305 19s. 2d. Schoolmas-
ter's salary, fixed under the act of 1861 at £70,
with fees. The parish church was built in 1790,
and contains 1,200 sittings. There is aFree church,
called Boston church : attendance, 400 ; sum raised
in 1865, £351 6s. 8d. There are three United
Presbyterian churches, South, East, and West, with
an attendance respectively of 400, 480, and 700.
There are about twelve non-parochial schools, — one
of which is a handsome conspicuous Free church
school in one of the principal streets of the town. —
The name Dunse was anciently written Duns, and
is simply the Celtic dun, — applied to the site of the
original town on Dunse-law.
The Town of Duxse stands on a fine plain at the
southern base of Dunse-law, 7-J miles north-east of
Greenlaw, 10| north-north-west of Coldstream, 11
south-west by west of Ayton, 15J west of Berwick,
and 44 by road through Haddington, but 55 by rail-
way, east-south-east of Edinburgh. Situated in the
centre of the county, and unrivalled in extent, at-
tractions, and marketing importance, it is the vir-
tual, though not the nominal, capital of Berwick-
shire. It is neat and modern in its edifices, spa-
cious and tidy in its streets, and pleasing, though
not brilliant, in its general burghal appearance. In
the market-place — which is a fine open area or
square — stands the town-house, a beautiful Gothic
structure of modern erection, surmounted by a very
elegant and tasteful spire. An array of good houses,
large shops, and commodious churches and semina-
ries, imparts to the town a cheerful aspect. As the
scene of most of the legal business of the county, a
large body of provincial lawyers figure among its
population. Most of the inhabitants are shopkeepers,
handicraftsmen, and dependents on the marketing,
from an extensive range of agricultural country.
Though there is some weaving conducted in the
town and neighbourhood, yet it does not sensibly
impress on the town a manufacturing character. A
weekly market on Wednesday, three annual fairs
for cattle, and quarterly markets for sheep, draw
down upon it the stir and the traffic by which it
mainly subsists. The fair held on the first Thurs-
day of June is an important one for fat cattle, which
are mostly purchased by English dealers. There is
usually a small show of sheep also at this fair. The
August fair has declined of late years for cattle ;
but it is also a hiring market, and is held on the
26th of the month, or the Tuesday after when that
date falls on a Saturday, Sunday, or Monday. The
November fair is held on the 17th of the month. It
also has declined. The first of the sheep-markets
is held on the fourth Wednesday of March, and is
chiefly for the sale of ewes in lamb ; the second, on
the third Wednesday of May, is for hogs and weth-
ers ; the third, on the second Wednesday of July,
is principally for lambs, and is also a great wool-
market. The fourth sheep-market is held on the
fourth Wednesday of September, and is principally
for draft ewes. The town has offices of the Bank of
Scotland, the British Linen Company's Bank, the
City of Glasgow Bank, and the Royal Bank, a savings'
bank, insurance offices, several libraries, a news-
room, a freemason lodge, and a total abstinence so-
ciety. Justice of peace small debt courts are held
monthly. Sheriff small debt courts are held six
times a-year. The sheriff county courts and com-
missary courts are held on all Thursdays, except the
last in each month, also on every Tuesday and Fri
day, during session. The sheriff-clerk's office also
is in Dunse. An act of parliament passed in 1853,
after narrating the inconvenience of continuing to
make Greenlaw the county town, enacted that the
county courts might be held as well in Dunse, and
authorized the Lord Advocate to arrange from time
to time the holding of the courts in either town.
Dunse is of considerable antiquity, and appears to
have been at one time a free burgh-of-barony, whose
burgesses had power to choose a magistracy, and
create corporations. In 1670, Sir James Cockburn
of Cockburn, who had purchased the estate of
Dunse from Hume of Ayton, obtained from Charles
DUNSINNAN.
485
DUNSTAFFNAGE.
II. a charter, erecting it under him into a burgh-of-
barony ; and since that date, he and his successors in
his claims had nominated a bailie to its government,
without consulting the feuars and inhabitants. The
baronial right of superiority was subsequently ac-
quired, and continues to be possessed by Hay of
Drummelzier. The south part of the town stands
on the barony of Crumstane, belonging to the same
superior. Yet the inhabitants of Dunse are a private
association, who manage the police and the common
good, and are called ' the feuars of Dunse,' in the
same way that the inhabitants of royal burghs are
called burgesses. The common good or property of
the feuars consists of the town-house, which draws
rent from the county of Berwick, and parties occa-
sionally using its hall, and which is fitted up in the
lower floor in shops; 10 acres of land on a neighbour-
ing moor, which contain a whinstone quarry; and
the proceeds of the manure of the town, and the
weighing-machine or steel-yard. The annual re-
venue derived from these sources is about £130.
Six corporations or crafts formerly existed, and
claimed exclusive privileges ; but during the last 27
years, they have practically ceased. During 120
years after the cession of Berwick-upon-Tweed to
England, Dunse shared with Lauder the privilege
of being the county-town ; and not even in favour
of Greenlaw, was it wholly deprived of that privilege
till the vear 1696. Population in 1834, 2,656; in
1861, 2,556. Houses, 346.
DUNSHILT. See Daxeshalt.
DUNSINNAN, or Dunsinane, one of the Sidlaw
hills, in the parish of Collace, 8 miles north-east of
Perth, and in the Gowrie district of Perthshire.
It rises in a conical form, with a flat and verdant
summit, to the height of 1,114 feet above sea-level,
and 800 feet from its base, and commands a fine
view of Strathmore and Blairgowrie. At one place
is to be traced a winding road cut into the rock; on
the other sides it is steep and of difficult access. It
has been a military station, defended by a strong
rampart and fosses which went quite round the
upper part of the hill. The area within the rampart
is of an oval form, 210 feet long, 130 broad, and a
little lower than the ruins of the rampart itself, the
height of which, as appears from the immense mass
remaining, must have been great. This stronghold,
which is 15 miles distant from Biniam, is attributed
to the usurper Macbeth ; and the traditions in the
neighbourhood concerning the predictions of the
witches, and the defeat and death of the Thane, are
so similar to Shakspeare's history of Macbeth, that
it is probable the great dramatist had visited the
spot himself when in Scotland. — Dunsinnan house,
delightfully situated amid extensive plantatibns,
with a southern exposure, is a fine mansion, and
has been recently enlarged and improved. William
Naime, Esq., a younger son of the Dunsinnan family,
toward the close of last century, and during nine
years of the present, adorned the situations of
senator of the College of Justice, and member of the
High court of Justiciary, bearing the title of Lord
Dunsinnan.
DUNSKEATH. See Niqg.
DUNSKEERY, an islet in the Pentland frith, 4
miles north of the promontory of Farout-head,
Sutherlandshire.
DUNSKEY. See Pokttatrick.
DUN'S MOOR. See Dun.
DUNSTAFFNAGE, an ancient castle in Mid
Lorn, Argyleshire, remarkable for being one of the
first seats of the Scottish princes. It is situated on
a promontory, almost insulated in that beautiful
arm of the sea, Loeh-Etive; and if romantic and
magnificeut scenery, and the pleasing interchange
of mountain and valley, wood and water, sea and
land, island and continent, conjoined with all those
recollections, borrowed from the earliest ages of our
history, which arc most gratifying to national feel-
ing, he viewed as inducements in selecting the situ
of a royal residence, it might well be questioned
whether Scotland could present one more desirable
than the vicinity of Dunstaifnage. On the west,
Dunstaffnage fronts that beautiful and fertile island,
fitly denominated Lismore, or Leasmore, ' the great
garden,' beyond which towers the bleak and rocky
Mull. The prospect terminates, towards the north,
with the lofty mountains of Morvem; while the
view is enriched with a cluster of small islands
scattered in various directions. Behind it lies that
fortress, celebrated in our ancient chronicles under
the name of Berigonium, and also the ruined priory
of Ardchattan. See these articles.
"The builder of this castle," says Grose, "and
the time of its construction are unknown. It is
certainly of great antiquity, and was once the seat
of the Pictish and Scottish princes. Here, for a long
time, was preserved the famous stone, the palladium
of Scotland, brought, as the legend has it, from Spain.
It was afterwards removed by Kenneth II. to Scone,
and is now in Westminster abbey, brought thither by
King Edward I. On it was the following inscrip-
tion:
1 Ni fallat fatum, Scoti quocunque locatuni
Invenient lapidem, reguare tenentur ibidem."'
Our venerable Wyntoun has thus rendered this
ancient national prophecy :
But gyf Werdys falyliand be,*
Quhare-evyr that stane ybe segyt se,
Thare sail the Scotlis be regnand
And lordys haleoure all that laud.
Boece has given the same legendary prediction.
According to Wyntoun, Fergus, the son of Ere,
brought this "stone of power" with him from Ire-
land into Scotland ; but, before it reached Dunstaff-
nage, it had visited Icolmkill in its way. He, in-
deed, altogether omits the mention of this palace in
the history of its peregrinations, which might almost
vie with those of the cottage of " our Lady of Lo-
retto." For, according to his account, Fergus
Broucht this stane wytht-in Scotland
Fyrst quhen he come and wane that land.
And fyrst it set in Ikkoluikil,
And Skune thare-eftir it wes broucht tyle
And thare it wes syne mony day,
Qhyll Edward gert have it away, &c
Leslie asserts that it was brought from Argyle to
Scone by Kenneth Macalpine. " This castle," Pen-
nant has observed, " is fabled to have been founded
by Ewin, a Pictish monarch, cotemporary with
Julius Caesar, naming it after himself, Evonium."
Grose has said, " According to vulgar tradition, this
castle was founded by Edwin, a Pictish monarch."
It is probable that the name has assumed this form
by an error of the press. But this good-humoured
writer has undoubtedly fallen into an error, when he
speaks of this as "a vulgar tradition:" for, as far
as we can learn, there is not a vestige of the name
Evonium among the natives. It seems to have no
other authority than that of Boece, who acknow-
ledges that the intention of the monarch, in desig-
nating the fortress which he erected from his own
name, was in fact frustrated by the predominance
of the vulgar designation. Although the so-called
Evonium lies on the bay of Oban, even fancy can
afford no aid from any supposed similarity ; for the
term Oban is explained ' the White bay ; ' whence
* "Unless the Destinies fail," or " be defective."
DUNSTAFFNAGE.
486
DUNSTAFFNAGE
the name of the modern town of Oban, at the dis-
tance of 3 miles from the palace.
The castle is of a square form, 87 feet within
walls, having round towers at three of the angles.
The average height of the walls is 66 feet; 9 in
thickness. The external measurement of the walls
amounts to 270 feet. The circumference of the rock,
on which it stands, is 300. The castle has its en-
trance from the sea by a staircase ; but it is sup-
posed that, in former ages, this was by means of a
drawbridge. Only part of the building is habitable,
the rest of it being in ruins. The masonry is con-
sidered very ancient. At the distance of about 400
feet from the castle are the remains of a chapel
formerly appropriated to the religious services of its
inmates. This, in length, is 78 feet; in height, 14;
and in breadth, 26. It is said, that some of the
ancient regalia were preserved here till the 18th
century, when, in consequence of the infirmity of
the keeper, they were embezzled by the servants, who
could not withstand the temptation excited by the
silver that adorned them. We are informed, how-
ever, that they left a battle-axe, 9 feet in length, of
beautiful workmanship, and embossed with silver.
Pennant has given a drawing of a small ivory figure
found here, which he thinks " was certainly cut in
memory of" the celebrated " chair, and appears to
have been an inauguration sculpture. A crowned
monarch is represented sitting in it with a book,"
rather a scroll, " in one hand, as if going to take the
coronation-oath." Speaking of the ruined chapel,
he says, that it had once been an elegant building,
and has at one end an enclosure, used as a family
cemetery.
As, according to all the slender remains of our
national history, the fatal chair of royalty was
transferred to Scone, after the union of the Scots
and Picts under the son of Alpin, it might naturally
enough be supposed that Dunstaffnage lost much of
its former importance. Being no longer — as it had
been under the Dalriadic kings — the regal seat, nor,
from the far greater extent of dominion, in a situa-
tion adapted for this pre-eminence, its name scarcely
appears in our annals for some centuries. Indeed,
it seems highly probable, that very soon after it was
deserted by its royal possessors, it became a strong-
hold of the Norwegians. About the year 843, Ken-
neth Macalpine transferred the seat of government
from Dunstaffnage to the palace of Forteviot, in
Perthshire. By this time the Norwegians had be-
gun to make inroads on the western coast of Scotland,
and had taken possession of a considerable part of
Ireland; and we may trace them in the immediate
vicinity of this regal fortress. See Dunolly. We
lose sight of Dunstaffnage for several centuries, till
it again rises up to view during the eventful reign
of Robert Bruce. It was then possessed by Alex-
ander of Argyle, father of John, whom Archdeacon
Barbour calls the Lord of Lorn, and who, he says,
dwelt in the vicinity of the head or source of Tay.
The lord of Lome wonnyt thar by,
That was capitale ennymy
To the king, for his emys sak,
Jhon Cumyn; and thoucht for to tak
Wengeauce apon cruell maner.
John, called the Red Cumyn, whom Brace had slain
at Dumfries under the imputation of treachery, was
erne, that is, uncle, to John of Lorn ; Alexander of
Argyle, the father of the latter, having married
Cumyn's daughter. Sir Walter Scott, having re-
marked, that according to Lord Hailes, she was his
aunt, adds that " the genealogy is distinctly given
by Wintoun.
The thryd douchtyr of Red Cwmyn,
Alysawndyr of Argayle syne
Tuk, and weddyt tii hys wyl :
And on hyr lie gat in-tyl hys lyf
Jhon of Lome, the quhilk gat
Ewyn of Lome eftyr that."
This Alexander adhered to the interests of Baliol.
At the time here referred to, Brace was defeated in
the battle of Dairy, near Tyndrum ; but afterwards,
A. 1308, having defeated the army of John of Lorn,
he besieged his father in his fortress of Dunstaffnage
The king, that stoute wes, stark, and bauld,
Till Dunstaffynch rycht sturdely
A sege set ; and besyly
Assaylit the castell it to get —
Schyr Alexander off Arghile, that saw
The king distroy wp, cleue and law,
His land, send treyteris to the king;
And come his man but mar duelling.
And he resawyt him till his pess.
Bower, in his continuation of Fordun's Chronicon,
says that Alexander rendered the castle to Bruce;
but that, refusing to do homage to him, he received
from the king a safe-conduct for himself and all who
wished to retire with him, and fled into England,
where he died. This account is more credible than
the other; as the father certainly died in England,
and John his son fled by sea, continuing, as we
learn, from Barbour, in his rebellion. It is in re-
lation to this interesting period of our history that
Sir Walter Scott has introduced the following notice
of this palace, in that beautiful poem, the Lord of
the Isles, the scene of which is laid in this enchant
ing district of this country.
" Daughter," she said, " these seas behold,
Round twice an hundred islands roll'd,
From Hirt, that hears their northern roar.
To the green Hay's fertile shore.
Or mainland turn, where many a tower
Owns thy bold brother's feudal power,
Each on its own dark cape reclined,
And listening to its own wild wind.
From where Mingary, sternly placed,
O'erawes the woodland and the waste.
To where Dunstaffnage hears the raging
Of Connal with his rocks engaging."
The lands of Dunolly still belong to the Macdou-
gals, who claim as their ancestor this Alexander of
Argyle. Their claim, indeed, seems indisputable.
" The islands," Pennant has remarked, "remained
governed by powerful chieftains, the descendants of
Somerled, Thane of Heregaidel, or Argyle, who,
marrying the daughter of Olave, King of Man, left a
divided dominion to his sons Dugal and Reginald.
From the first were descended the Macdougals of
Lorn ; from the last the powerful clan of the Mac-
donalds. The lordship of Argyle, with Mull, and
the islands north of it, fell to the share of the first ;
Islay, Kintyre, and the southern isles, were the por-
tion of the last." Nisbet gives the following account
of this family ; although he has strangely disguised
the name of the place. " There was," he says, " a
great and old family of this name in Argyleshire,
called M'Oul, M'Dowall, or M'Dugall, Lords of
Lorn, whose title and lands went, by an heiress, to
Stewart, Lord of Lorn, and are now in the family
of Argyle ; Colin Campbell, the first Earl of Argyle,
having married Isabel, heiress of Stewart of Lorn. —
The heir-male of this family is John M'Dougall of
Dunolik, whose castle of Dunolik was the mansion-
house of the said family." The late proprietor in-
formed Dr. Jamieson, that they had lost by far the
greater part of their lands in consequence of their
adherence to the interest of Baliol ; and that on this
ground Dunstaffnage had passed from them to the
family of Argyle, who claimed this as their share of
the spoil. In conformity with this account, Sir
Walter Scott has said; " When the wars between
the Brace and Baliol factions again broke out in the
reign of David II., the lords of Lorn were again
DUNSYR'E.
487
DUNTOCHER.
found on the losing side, owing to their hereditary
enmity to the house of Bruce. Accordingly, upon
the issue of that contest, they were deprived hy
David II. and his successor of by far the greater
part of their extensive territories, which were con-
ferred upon Stewart, called the Knight of Lorn.
The house of Maedougal continued to survive the
loss of power, and affords a very rare, if not an
unique, instance of a family of such unlimited power,
and so distinguished during the middle ages, sur-
viving the decay of their grandeur, and flourishing
in a private station." — A charter of Eohert I. is still
extant, granting to Arthur Campbell, fourth son of
the brave Sir Colin Campbell of Lochow, " the con-
stabulary of Dunstaft'nage, and the maines thereof,
whilk Alexander Argyle had in bis hands." David
II. confirms a charter granted by his father to Wil-
liam de Yetere Tout (VYeapont) dated at Dunstaft"-
ynch in the 4th year of his reign. " I find," says
Pennant, " about the year 1455, this to have been a
residence of the Lords of the Isles; for here James,
last Earl of Douglas, after his defeat in Angus, fled
to Donald, the regulus of the time, and prevailed
on him to take arms, and carrjr on a plundering war
against his monarch .Tames the Second." He refers
to Hume of Godscroft as his authority ; but all that
Godscroft says is : " The Earl himself by flight got
him to Dunstaffage, where finding Donald Earl of
Eoss, and Lord of the Isles, he incited him to make
war against the King in his favours, and after he
had engaged him therein, he withdrew himselfe
again into England." This, however, does not
amount to a proof that Dunstaft'nage was then occu-
pied as a palace by these usurping reguli. Buchanan
merely says, that Earl James met with Donald, the
tyrant of the isles, and Earl of Eoss, at Dunstaft'-
nage;— " ad Stepbanodunum amvenit." From this
phraseology we can only infer that this was the ap-
pointed place of meeting : and it was most probably
selected as the most convenient place for both ; the
Earl of Douglas, having no maritime accommoda-
tion, coming to that point which Donald could
easily reach by sea. We cannot, indeed, suppose
that this had become " a residence of the Lords of
the Isles," without assuming it as a fact, that that
branch of the noble family of Argyle, to which this
fortress had been appropriated by Eobert I., bad
been expelled from it.
DUNSYEE, a parish, containing a village of its
own name, on the north-east verge of the upper
ward of Lanarkshire. It is bounded by the coun-
ties of Edinburgh and Peebles, and by the parishes
of Dolpliinton, Walston, and Camwath. Its post-
town is Dolpbinton. Its length southward is 6
miles ; and its breadth is 5. Its surface lies high,
most of it being more than 700 feet above the sea
level, and contains a steep and precipitous hill about
1,250 in height, from which the parish is understood
to have received its name. The climate is rather
damp and ungenial. Springs are abundant; and
the streamlet Sledwin rises in the north-east comer,
near the foot of the hill, called Craigengar. The
soil is generally of a sandy nature, or a mixture of
sand and clay, and is not very fertile. About 3,000
acres are in tillage, about 30 are under wood, and
about 8,000 are either pastoral or waste. Much of the
surface is wildly moorish ; and part of this contains
a dismal lake of about a mile in circumference. The
yearly value of raw produce was estimated in 1834
it £9,052. Assessed property in 1860, £3,449 0s.
0d. The road from Camwath to Edinburgh, tra-
verses the northern border; and a station on the
Edinburgh fork of the Caledonian railway is easily
accessible. The village of Dunsyre is a small rural
place, on the southern border of the parish, about 2^
miles north of Dolpbinton, and 0| east of Camwath.
Population of the village, about 50. Population of
the parish in 1831, 335; in 1861, 312. Houses, 52
This parish is in the presbytery of Biggar, and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, tho
Crown. Stipend, £156 15s. 9d.; glebe, £28. Hamil-
ton of Wishaw says — " The teinds of this parish
were anciently a part of the patrimonie of the ab-
bacie of Kelso ; but in respect its but a small parish,
they are wholly possessed by the incumbent." Sal-
ary of schoolmaster, under the recent act, £45.
The route by which the army of Agricola reached
the Roman camp at Cleghorn can be traced
through the parish ; and several cairns occur along
the line, in some of which urns have been found.
Dunsyre comprised a portion of the lands which
were exchanged by the ambitious Earl of Bothwell
with the Earl of Angus, for the lands and castle of
Hermitage in Liddesdale. It was sold, however,
by James, Marquis of Douglas, to Sir George Lock-
hart, the president of the Court of Session, in the
hands of whose successors almost the entire parish
still remains. In the troubled times of the persecu-
tion, Dunsyre often afforded a retreat to the Cove-
nanters; and the last sermon preached by the ami-
able Donald Cargill was upon Dunsyre common in
1669. William Veitch, one of the most celebrated
of the preachers of the Covenant, was at one time
tenant of Westhills in the parish, from which he
was compelled to flee, after the battle of Eullion
Green.
DUNTALCHAIG (Loch), a lake on the mutual
border of the parishes of Dores and Daviot, Inver-
ness-shire.
DUNTOCHEE, a small manufacturing and post
town in the parish of West Kilpatrick, Dumbarton-
shire. It stands on a small stream, about 1J mile
from the Clyde, and 9 miles north-west of Glasgow.
The stream descends from two lakes about 3 miles
to the north-west, and ploughs its way past the
town along a fine glen, opening a vista toward the
Clyde, and presenting a remarkably large amount
of water-power. A bridge over it at the town is
very ancient, and, though often repaired, is believed
by some antiquaries, and asserted by a current tra-
dition, to be a Eoman structure, perhaps the oldest
bridge in Scotland. On a contiguous hill stood a
Eoman fort, which has been nearly effaced, but not
without yielding memorials to modem research.
In 1775, were discovered under ground on the side
of the hill, several rows of pillars constructed of
curious reddish tiles, and forming a labyrinth of
passages of about 18 inches square, and floored over
with larger tiles of the same kind, the whole sur-
rounded by a stone wall, and conjectured to have
been a sudatorium or hot bath for the use of the gar-
rison. In a neighbouring field was found a Eoman
altar; and on various spots in the vicinity have been
found also Eoman querns, vases, and coins. The
modem town, both in itself and as the centre of a
small district, is a seat of much industry. It dates
its prosperity from Mr. William Dunn's establish-
ing four extensive factories for the spinning and
weaving of cotton, at successive periods from 1808
to 1831. One of these is in the town itself, and the
other three are at respectively Faifley, Miltonfield,
and Hardgate, all within a mile. The quantity of
cotton yarn spun annually is nearly a million of
pounds, and the quantity of cotton cloth manufac-
tured probably two millions of yards. This depart
ment of industry forms the main support of the in-
habitants; but there are also a manufactory of
agricultural implements in Duntocber, and lime-
works, coal-works, and quarries in the near vicinity.
The town has a savings' bank, a public library.
DUNTROON CASTLE.
488
DUPLIN.
a chapel of ease, a Free church, two United Pres-
byterian churches, and a Roman Catholic chapel.
Daily communication is maintained by omnibus
with Glasgow. Population in 1861, 2,360. Houses,
232.
DUNTREATH. See Steathblane.
DUNTROON. See Dundee.
DUNTROON CASTLE, an ancient baronial fort-
alice, now in a state of good repair as a mansion, at
the south-west extremity of the parish of Kilmartin,
Argyleshire. It occupies a picturesque situation,
in front of knolls, rocks, and wood, overhanging the
Crinan canal and the sea, and presents an imposing
appearance to strangers passing through the canal.
It belonged formerly to a branch of the Campbells,
who took their designation from it ; but it belongs
now to Mr. Malcolm of Poltalloch. The famous
Colkitto, in his invasion of Argyleshire in the sum-
mer of 1644, wished to take this castle, but could
not succeed. On his approach to it he sent forward
his piper, in the capacity of a spy, to procure infor-
mation and mislead the inmates. The piper, on
getting in, found that the place was strong enough
to resist all Colkitto's force, that the entrance to it
was so narrow as to admit only one person at a time,
and that he himself was speedily suspected, inso-
much as to be obliged to yield himself prisoner in
one of the upper turrets ; and when, by and bye, he
observed through some crevice or loop-hole that
Colkitto was drawing near, he contrived to warn
him of the danger of making an attack by playing
on his bag-pipes the pibroch, —
1 A Cholla mo run seachain an tur, seachain an tur,
A Cholla mo ghaoil seachain an caol, seachain an caol,
T ha niise an laimh, tlia mise an laimli."
That is,
■' Dearest Coll, shun the tower, 9hun the tower.
Beloved Coll, shun the sound, shun the sound,
I am in hand, 1 am m hand." I am a prisoner
Colkitto understood the warning; and, supposing
the castle to be impregnable, he left his faithful
piper to his fate, and continued his career of plunder
and devastation, through the estates of Duntroon,
Rassly, and Kilmartin, away onward to Loch-Awe.
DUNTULM, a bay and an old castle, in the
parish of Kilmuir, and near the north-western ex-
tremity of Skye, Inverness-shire. The bay is com-
paratively open, yet affords achorage and shelter in
some winds. The castle was originally a Danish
fort, and afterwards, by reconstruction and great
extension, the magnificent family residence of the
Macdonalds, descendants of the Lords of the Isles.
It stands on a lofty perpendicular rock, whose base
is washed by the sea, and seems to have been im-
pregnable. It has long been a ruin; yet it still
displays some remains of architectural decoration.
DUNURE, a post-office village and small sea-
port, in the parish of Maybole, Ayrshire. It is situ-
ated on a small bay, 7 miles south-west by south of
Ayr. A harbour was formed, in 1811, on the west
side of the bay, within a projecting point of land;
but it proved to be of small value, and was allowed
to go to ruin. Round the point of land, the water
is from 4 to 20 fathoms deep, with a level, clean,
sandy bottom and good anchorage. From this deep
water, a passage was cut, 150 feet wide at bottom,
through the rock, to a square basin, with from 700
to 1,000 feet of quay, all sheltered by high ground,
and screened by lines of buildings forming a quad-
rangle. The access from the sea is easy and safe in
almost any wind, and the egress is so facile that a
vessel, as soon as she leaves the harbour, can at
any time and at once work to sea. The depth of
water in the harbour is 12 feet at ordinary spring
tides, but could be artificially increased to nearly 30
feet. Yet in spite of all these advantages, on a
;pite ot an tnese advantages, on a
coast so devoid of natural shelter, so inhospitable
to shipping, and so overlooked by a productive
country, the only craft frequenting this place has
been an occasional sloop in the agricultural inter-
ests and a few fishing-boats. — In the vicinity, on
the blink of a lofty sea-cliff, high above the waves,
stands the ruin of Dunure Castle, the original resi-
dence of the noble family of Kennedy. It bears
marks of high antiquity, and was formerly sur-
rounded by a ditch and wall. It figures promi-
nently in some wild scenes in the history of the Ken-
nedys,— and especially so in events connected with
the tragedy of Auchendrane. See Maybole.
DUN VEGAN, a post-office station, a harbour, and
a mansion, in the parish of Duirinish, on the west
coast of Skye, Invemess-skire. They are situated
on the north side, and near the head, of a bay which
penetrates the land 10 miles on the south side of the
peninsula of Vaternish, and is called variously
Loch-Fellart and Loch-Dunvegan. Here is a good
inn. Communication outward is regularly main
tained by packet-boat. The situation, in a relative
point of view, is nearly the same for the west coast
of Skye as Portree is for the east. The mansion ol
Dunvegan is the principal seat of Macleod, the chief
of the ancient and powerful clan of that name. It
is partly old and partly modern. The modem part
forms two sides of a small square; and on the third
side is the skeleton of a castle of unknown antiquity,
supposed to have been a Norwegian fortress when
the Danes were masters of these islands. The en-
tire pile, both exteriorly and interiorly, has recently
undergone very considerable alterations, and is now
one of the finest residences of its class in the High-
lands. Several remarkable heir-looms are preserved
in it, — connected with the curious usages and the
wild superstitions of the olden times; and it is rifer
than most old places in those weird associations for
which all Skye, but especially Bracadale, has a bad
pre-eminence. Dr. Johnson, and also Sir Walter
Seott, spent a night in it; and both make special
record of its ghostly traditions. Sir Walter, indeed,
seemed to be so fascinated with these as to lose for
the moment his right ordinary use of his eyes. "He
gives a minute account of Dunvegan Castle, which,
notwithstanding his unrivalled power and generally
minute accuracy in the description of old towers
and castles, is more picturesque than correct ; and,
in describing the scene to be witnessed from the
window of 'the haunted chamber,' he allows his
imagination to deceive him completely, when he
states that ' Macleod's Maidens ' formed an inter-
esting part of it; for these pillars are not visible
from any point within four miles of the castle."
See Duieinish.
DUNWAN, a hill, 2£ miles south-south-west of
the village of Eaglesham, and on the south-eastern
verge of Renfrewshire. It forms the water-shed of
the county at the sources of the White Cart, and
has an altitude of about 1,000 feet above sea-level.
DUNYCOICH, or Ddniquoich. See Inverary.
DUPLIN, or Dupplin, a parish in Perthshire,
united in 1618 to that of Aberdalgie. See Abeedai,-
gie. This was the scene of an engagement between
Edward Baliol and the Earl of Marr, on the 12 th, or
as some say the 18th, of August, 1332. Baliol hav-
ing landed near Kinghorn, and routed the troops
under the Earl of Fife who opposed his landing,
marched northward, and encamped on the Millar's
acre at Forteviot. The Earl of Man- heard at Perth,
" That all thnre fays cummyn ware
To Fortewyot, and tluum tluire
DURA.
489
DURISDEER.
Had Lweyd in n lytil plus,
'l'lio Mylnarys Aloe it ciillycd was;
Anil men sayis, batli hors ami man
In that nkyi'e war lwgyil than."
The Earl of Marr was encamped, with a numerous
army, on a rising ground on the opposite side of the
river Earn, near to Duplin. The contemptible ap-
pearance of Baliol's forces, confined within such
narrow bounds, proved a snare to the Royal army,
who laughed at the idea of danger from a mere
handful of enemies. Total carelessness was the
natural consequence; and ere day dawned, the
English had crossed the river, and attacking an
army that had abandoned itself to intemperance,
easily put it to a complete route. Some monuments
of antiquity appear in the neigbourhood; but
whether they have been erected as memorials of
this disastrous battle, or claim an earlier era, is
uncertain. There is a otone cross, quite entire, a
good way up the acclivity, on the opposite bank of
the Earn, almost straight north from the ford by
which Baliol's ami}' passed the river; and another
on the south of Forteviot, upon a rising ground,
called Dronachy, lying broken over at the pedestal,
on which are many emblematical figures. About
half-a-mile north from the first of these, a large
tumulus or cairn was opened, and in it were found
some coffins formed of rough flat stones, containing
many fragments of bones. About 60 years ago a
stone was found near the site of the place, having
two lambs carved on it. Duplin-castle, the seat of
the Earl of Kinnoul, noticed in our article on Aber-
dalgie, is situated about 4 miles south-west of Perth,
and about the same distance west of Bridge-of-Eam,
and commands a magnificent view of nearly the
whole valley and basin of the Earn. This noble
mansion was visited, in September 1842, by Queen
Victoria and Prince Albert, in their progress to the
Highlands.
DURA, a post-office station subordinate to Ben-
awe, Argyleshire.
DURA DEN, a picturesque winding ravine, in
the parishes of Ceres and Kemback, Fifeshire.
It intersects from south to north the range of
hills flanking the south side of Stratheden, and is
traversed by the Kem or Kame, a rivulet of about
7 miles length of run from the parish of Kettle to
the Eden. Dura den has a similar scenic character
to Glenfarg, but is on a smaller scale. Its sides
exhibit interesting sections of the rock-formations
of the district, — yellow sandstone and the strata of
the coal-measures. A bleachfield was established
some thirty years ago, or upward, in Dura den.
DURIE, an estate in the parish of Scoonie, Fife-
shire. It comprises about three-fifths of the parish,
and extends to the coast. The town of Leven is en-
tirely feued from it. The mansion house and
pleasure-grounds are situated to the north of the
town. This estate is the property of Charles Mait-
land Christie, Esq., but belonged formerly to a
family of Gordons, and anciently to the family of
Durie of that ilk. Sir Alexander Gordon, a pro-
prietor of it in the 17th century, was a famous lord-
of-session. He made a collection of the decisions
of the court of session, from July 1621 to July 1642,
which were afterwards published by his grandson,
and are known by the name of Durie's Praeticks.
He was one of the most eminent men of his age.
A coal worked in mines on the Durie estate, now
exhausted, was long celebrated both at home and
abroad for its excellence; insomuch that prime coal
from any quarter came to be called in Holland and
elsewhere Durie coal.
DURINISH See Duiiunish.
DURISDEER, a parish, containing the post-office
village of Durisdeer, and part of the post-office vil-
lage of Carron-bridge, in the north of Nithsdalc,
Dumfries-shire. It is bounded by Lanarkshire, and
by the parishes of Morton, Pcnpont, and Sanquhar.
Its length south-westward is 7J miles; its greatest
breadth is 5A miles; and its area is about 28} square
miles. In the north it is bleak, inhospitable, and
highland. Hills and mountains press so tumultu-
ously upon the glens, that a tourist, in following a
winding path, is puzzled to conceive how an open-
ing among the heights which seem to forbid his
progress can exist. The central, southern, and
south-eastern sections are comparatively low in sur-
face, and beauteous in diversity. Here the Nith
diagonally intersects the parish, over a distance, in
eluding sinuosities, of 8 or 9 miles; and, all the wa
along, it luxuriates in much richness of scenery
From the narrow pass with shebang or precipitous
hanks, clad in wood and foiled by rock and scaur,
to the broad plain, cultivated like a garden, and
screened by a mountain-barrier, the basin of the
river exhibits nearly every variety of landscape,
and astonishes the tourist by the suddenness and
the beauty of its transitions. Near the southern
boundary, where the vale is widest, stands the
gorgeous ducal pile of Drumlanrig, surrounded with
the fairy-land of its demesne. See Drumlanrig
Castle. From north to south other parts of the
parish, even its least cheerful and most rugged, are
variegated, and occasionally tinged with beauty, by
the courses of Carron water, and Kirk, Enterkin,
and Mar bums. The soil in the low grounds is in
general deep, loamy, and fertile. The uplands in the
north-eastern border ascend to the water-shed be-
tween the systems of the Nith and the Clyde, and
comprise part of the Lowther mountain ; they enclose
the hither part of a remarkable alpine pass, called
the Wallpath, between Nithsdale and Clydesdale:
and they contain the same rocks and minerals as
the neighbouring mines of Wanlockhead and Lead-
hills. About one half of the entire parochial area is
waste or pastoral, and about 2,000 acres are under
wood. The Duke of Buccleuch is the principal land-
owner. The yearly value of raw produce was esti-
mated in 1835 at £15,254. Assessed property in
1860, £7,934 0s. Od. The parish is traversed along
the vale of the Nith, by the turnpike from Dumfries
to Glasgow, and along the vale of the Carron by that
from Dumfries to Edinburgh, the two forking ofl
from a hitherto common line immediately after enter-
ing the parish at Carron-bridge. The Glasgow and
South-western railway also traverses the parish, and
has a station at Carron-bridge. The village of
Durisdeer is a sequestered place, on the Kirk burn,
3J miles north-north-east of Carron-bridge. Pop-
ulation of the village, 107. Houses, 27. Popula-
tion of the parish in 1831, 1,488; in 1861, 1,320.
Houses, 265.
This parish is in the presbytery of Penpont, and
synod of Dumfries and Galloway. Patron, the
Duke of Buccleuch. Stipend, £256 9s. 4d.; glebe,
£25. Unappropriated teinds, £1,267 15s. 8d. There
are two parochial schoolmasters, one of whom has
under the recent act a salary of £33, the other a salary
of £37, and each about £10 fees. The parish church
was built in 1720, and contains 350 sittings. There
is a Free church preaching-station, the receipts of
which in 1865 amounted to £29 4s. 9d. There are
two private schools. Durisdeer was originally a
rectory, belonging to the see of Glasgow, and served
by a vicar; and, in the 14th century, was consti-
tuted a prebend of Glasgow. There were anciently
two chapels; vestiges of which are still apparent.
One was situated on the Carron, and still gives the
name Chapel to the farm on which it stood. In
DURNESS.
490
DURNESS.
the present parish-church is a grand mausoleum of
the Drumlanrig Douglases. An aisle, surmount-
ing the sepulchral vault, has a marble monument
of multiform sculpture, and imposing appearance,
but in a style offensive to modern taste, commemor-
ative of James, second Duke of Queensberry, and
his Duchess. On the sculptured wall, the ducal
pair are represented as lying on a couch, dressed in
state. The Duchess is stretched in the attitude of
death, her hands folded over her breast. The Duke
appears behind her, half raised on his elbow, wear-
ing an enormous wig, and contemplating the coun-
tenance of his lady. The tout-ensemble of the
sculpture, however, is anything but lugubrious;
and, but for the affecting suggestion of the muta-
bility and vanity of all human grandeur, presents
such a display of the trappings and grotesque adorn-
ings of antique courtly apparel, as would be irresis-
tibly ludicrous. North of the church, in the Wall-
path, are vestiges of a Roman camp. Along the
Wallpath the great Roman road through Nithsdale
passed to join in Lanarkshire the road thither
through Annandale. Durisdeer, according to one
version of the old ballad, was the scene of Johnie
o' Breadislee's 'woeful hunting'
Jolmie busket up his glide bend bow,
His arrows ane by ane;
And he has gane to Durrisdeer
To hunt the dim deer down.
The 'silly auld carle' tells the seven Foresters of
Hislington what he has seen ' atween the water and
the brae,' and a conflict, in which Johnie slays all
the seven, but is mortally wounded himself, issues:
Now Johnie's gude bend bow is broke,
And his gride gray dogs are slain ;
And tils body lies dead in Durrisdeer,
And his hunting it is done.
DURN. See Fordtce.
DURNESS, a parish, containing a post-office sta-
tion of its own name, in Sutherlandshire. It com-
prises the north-western extremity of the mainland
of Scotland. It is bounded on the west and the north
by the sea, on the east by Tongue, and on the south
by Edderachillis. It comprehends the cultivable
lands on the eastern side of Loch Eriboll, commonly
called Westmoin; the tract denominated Strath-
more, and intersected by the river Hope ; Durness
Proper, or the peninsular tract stretching between
Loch Eriboll and Durness bay and kyle ; and the
district of Parf, lying between the Atlantic and the
kyle of Durness, and extending south to the Ashir
district of Edderachillis. Its length from east to
west is about 25 miles; its average breadth nearly
20 miles ; and its superficial area, including the
numerous lochs or arms of the sea which deeply
indent its coasts, 300 square miles. The scenery
is mostly wild and mountainous. It is nearly
destitute of wood ; and considerable tracts are oc-
cupied by bleak mosses. Towards the shore, how-
ever, where the peninsula of Durness terminates
in Farout-head, there is a series of beautiful fields,
and rich green pasture. On the sides of the hills,
too, upon spots where stealings have been occa-
sionally erected to shelter the shepherds in summer
and harvest when feeding their flocks at a distance
from their ordinary dwellings, the sward is richly
variegated with clover and other valuable herbage.
Along the shore a tract of flat land extends, in some
places, to the very verge of the ocean ; in others,
there is a considerable extent of benty sands ; while
at the head-lands, piles of rocks tower to a vast
height. The shores themselves are almost every-
where rocky and destitute of vegetation. The tides
rush in with great rapidity, especially at Cape
Wrath where their violence is increased by a shoal,
which runs out north by east from the extremity of
the cape for 5 or 6 miles, and is covered by from 16
to 24 fathoms of water. See Cape Wrath. About
a mile from the coast is the Staigs, a rook the top of
which is always above water, but which is never-
theless formidable to ships approaching the cape by
night. Loch Eriboll forms a spacious harbour, in
which even the smallest sloop enjoys perfect safety.
It penetrates the country in a south-west direction,
nearly 11 miles from the Whiten-head, which lies
on the left hand of the entrance, and whose white
and elevated rocks mariners distinguish at a dis-
tance, even in the night. On the west, or right
hand of the entrance, is Rispond, a small dry har-
bour, with basin and pier, for fishing-boats and
small craft. See Eriboll. To the west of Farout-
head is Durness bay, a large shallow bay of rough
sea, too open to afford shelter for vessels. Its upper
extremity is prolonged into a narrow kyle running
inland in a south-west direction up Strathdinard.
Between Durness bay and Cape Wrath the cliffs are
very magnificent. In the cavern of Smo, about a
mile east of the parish-church, sounds are distinctly
repeated by a remarkable echo. This cavern is, in-
deed, in many respects an object worthy of notice.
It is, in some places, 100 feet wide, and from 60 to
180 feet in height. A short way within its mouth
there is a perforation in the arch, through which a
stream of water descends, and is received into a sub-
terraneous lake. Tradition says, that the only per-
son who ever had courage to attempt to explore it,
was one Donald, Master of Reay, but that the ex-
tinction of the lights, by foul air, obliged him to
return before he could advance to the extremity of
the lake. Modern travellers, however, have the
option of making a profound and most romantic ex-
ploration of the cavern for themselves, with the aid
of a boat and lights furnished by the neighbouring
peasantry. Macculloch notices a cave' near the
Whiten-head which, he says, " exceeds in beauty,
splendour, and sublimity of effect, all the caves nf
Scotland except perhaps that of Papa Stouc." The
principal mountains in this alpine territory are Ben-
hope in Strathmore ; Ben-Spionnadh, which has an
elevation of 2,566 feet; Cranstachie in Dumess
Proper; and Fairbheinn and Bendearg in the Parf
district. See Bex-Hope. The principal lake is
Loch Hope. See Hope (Loch). There are numer-
ous small lochs. Loch Borley in Durness Proper,
affords, in great abundance, a species of char called
' Red Bellies,' and, in Gaelic, Tarragan. They are
caught best in October, when they repair to the
shallow water to deposit their spawn. From Loch
Dinard flows a stream of the same name, which,
after a north-east course of about 10 miles, flows
into the kyle of Durness. The Hope, flowing
through Strathmore, is a fine stream. There are
two fertile islands, each about a mile long, — Hoan,
near the entrance of Loch Eriboll, and Choaric,
within that loch, — the former recently inhabited,
and both containing burying-grounds, which are now
disused. Limestone lies along nearly the whole of
the kyle of Durness, some of it nearly of the quality
of good marble, and much of it interstratified with
quartz, and all lying unconformably on deeply in-
clined strata of gneiss and hornblende slate. Much
of the parish is eminently interesting to geologists,
but without containing any considerable mineral
wealth. Only about 500 acres of the entire area are
in cultivation; and onlv about 1,300 more are cap-
able of being profitably cultivated. The great bulk
of agriculture here takes the form of sheep-hus-
bandry. The total real rental, inclusive of fisheries
and kelp-shores, was only about £450 in 1796, and
£2,550 in 1834. The Duke of Sutherland is the
DITROR.
491
DUTIIIL.
only landowner. Nearly nil tlic population is resi-
dent either on the shores of Loch Eriboll, or on the
sea-coast between that loch and the Kyle of Dur-
ness. The yearly value of raw produce was esti-
mated in 1834 at £8,000. Assessed property in
1860, £3,6V2 0s. Od. The roads, ferries, and out-
ward communications have, of late years, been
greatly improved. Population in 1831, 1,153; in
1861, 1,109. Houses, 199.
This parish is in the presbytery of Tongue, and
synod of Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, the
Crown. The original parish comprehended all Lord
Reay's country. — a tract of 35 miles in length and
from 15 to 25 in breadth. But, as one minister was
not equal to the task of instructing the inhabitants
of so extensive a district, George, Lord Eeay, in 1721,
appliod to the General Assembly for some suitable
aid. The Assembly agreed that a collection should
be made through all Scotland; and a contribution
of £1,500 sterling was obtained. The original par-
ish of Durness was, in consequence, divided into the
three parishes of Durness, Tongue, and Edderachil-
lis, in 1724; and stipends were assigned for the
ministers of these parishes, in certain proportions,
out of the teinds of Lord Reay's estate, and the in-
terest of the money contributed. Stipend, £158 6s.
8d. ; glebe, £20. Schoolmaster's salary now is £50,
with £4 fees. The parish church was originally a
cell to the Augustinian monastery of Dornoch. The
structure still in use was built in 1619, and enlarged
in 1692, and contains 300 sittings. There are two
Free churches respectively at Durness and Eriboll,
the sums raised in connexion with which in 1865,
were, in the former, £42 16s. 10d., in the latter, £15
18s. 6d. There are an Assembly's school and two
subscription schools. The celebrated Gaelic bard,
Robert Donn or Mackay, who has been regarded as
the Burns of the Northern Highlands, was a native
of Durness ; and a neat monument to his memory,
with suitable inscriptions in Gaelic, English, Latin,
and Greek, was recently erected in the churchyard
by some admirers of his genius.
DUROR, a district, containing a post-office sta-
tion of its own name, in the north of Appin, Argyle-
shire. It occupies the angle between Loch Linnhe
and Loch Leven. It is traversed also to Loch
Linnhe by a small stream called the Duror. Here
is an inn, 5 miles south-south-west of Ballachulish,
and 9 north-north-east of Port-Appin. Here also is
a government church, built in 1826, repaired in
1834, and containing 323 sittings. Stipend, £120,
with manse and glebe. Here likewise is an en-
dowed school, with £20 a-year. Two annual fairs
are held at Duror, in April and October.
DURRAN (Loch). See Oleick.
DURRIS, a parish on the northern border of
Kincardineshire. Its north-west corner is about 2
miles from the post - town of Banchory, and its
northern boundary is all traced by the river Dee.
The parish is bounded by Aberdeenshire, and by
the parishes of Maryculter, Fetteresso, Glenbervie,
Strachan, and Banctiory-Ternan. Its length north-
eastward is 8 miles ; and its greatest breadth is 6§
miles. The ground rises from the south bank of
the Dee, till, in its southern extremity, it terminates
in a ridge of the Grampian mountains. There are
thus extensive haughs or tracts of level land near
the river, while, southwards, the mountains rise to
an elevation of upwards of 1 ,000 feet above the level
of the sea. Cairn-monearn is the highest of these,
being elevated about 1,200 feet above sea-level.
Mindernal, Mount Gower, and Craigbeg, are nearly
of the same height. On the top of Mount Gower is
a mineral spring, similar to one of the Harrowgate
waters. Soveral rivulets intersect the parish, of
which the Shceoch burn is the chief. It rises in
the south-western extremity beyond Shillofad, and
runs south-eastwards, often with a great body of
water, and with headlong rapidity, for about 12
miles, till it falls into the Dec at Durris church.
There are several large plantations of larch and
Scots pine, — both of which were introduced here by
Lord Peterborough. A great part of the parish has
been enclosed, and many improvements in agricul-
ture have been effected. Nearly 2,000 acres were
added to the arable land by the late proprietor, A.
Mactier, Esq. Gross annual produce valued at about
£14,000. Assessed property in 1843, £3,778 6s. 2d.
Farm-produce is sold at Stonehaven and Aberdeen.
Three annual fairs for cattle are held in Durris. On
a hill named Castle hill there is the appearance of
an ancient fortification having a regular fosse and
glacis. There is an ancient mansion connected by
a colonnade with Durris house, the principal modem
building in the parish. The new turnpike from
Aberdeen to Banchory passes along the northern
border, and the Deeside railway is readily acces-
sible. Population in 1831, 1,035; in 1861, 1,109.
Houses, 190.
This parish is in the presbytery and synod of
Aberdeen. Patron, Mactier of Durris. Stipend,
£158 6s. 7d.; glebe, £15. Schoolmaster's salary,
under the act £40, and other emoluments. The
parish church was built in 1822, and contains 550
sittings. There is a Free church preaching-station ;
the sum raised at which in 1865, was £66 7s. Id.
There is a non-parochial school with a small en-
dowment, called Hogg's charity school.
DURY. See Fowlis Wester.
DUSK. See Dhuisk.
DUTHIL, a parish, containing the post-office
hamlet of Carr-bridge, at the south-west extremity
of Morayshire. It is bounded on the north by
Nairnshire, on the north-east by a detached district
of Inverness-shire, on the northern part of the east
by the parish of Abernethy, and on all other sides
by the mainbody of Inverness-shire. Its length
north-eastward is 16 miles ; and its greatest breadth
is 13 miles. The Spey runs for 7J miles upon its
eastern boundary ; and the Dulnan intersects it
nearly along the middle. The parish is mountain-
ous, and contains much grand scenery. The sur-
face consists principally of belts of alluvial land
along the Spey and the Dulnan, a ridge of moun-
tain extending between these rivers upward to
Craigellachie, and a mass of ..wild upland all to the
left of the Dulnan, tracked by a few small streams,
and ascending to the watershed of the Monadhleagh
mountains along the boundary. The military road
from Dalnacardoch to Inverness passes through the
parish. On this road is the stage-inn of Aviemore,
which commands a fine view of the great fir woods
of Rothiemurchus, supposed to cover from 14 to 16
square miles. See Aviemore. Opposite to the inn
is Cairngorm ; and about a mile to the west is the
beautiful and bold projecting rock of Craigellachie,
the ' rock of alarm.' " From its swelling base, and
rifted precipices, the birch trees wave in graceful
cluster; their bright and lively green forming a
strong contrast, in the foreground, to the sombre
melancholy hue of the pine forests, which, in the
distance, stretch up the sides of the Cairngorm."
Craigellachie is the hill of rendezvous to the Grants.
' Stand fast, Craigellachie ! ' is the slogan or war-
cry of that clan, — the occupants of Strathspey, —
the name of whom prevails here to the exclusion of
almost eveiy other. This truly Highland district
altogether is exceedingly interesting and romantic.
Its ancient name signified 'the glen of heroes,'
and also ' the excellent valley,' because the kirk-
DY~CE.
492
DYKE.
town commands the prospect of a valley upwards of
1,000 acres in extent. Three miles to the east of
Duthil manse stands the picturesque ruin of the old
tower of Muekerath, a seat of the Grants of Kothie-
murchus, and which was erected in 1598 by Patrick
Grant, a son of John, surnamed ' The Simple.' The
old church of Duthil was one of the few Roman Ca-
tholic edifices which escaped the destructive energies
of the Reformers. The burying place of the Seafield
family is in this parish ; and a splendid mausoleum
was erected in it in 1837. The Earl of Seafield is
the sole landowner. The parish, to be a highland
one, is remarkably well provided with roads. Popu-
lation in 1831, 1,309; in 1861, 1,928. Houses, 406
Assessed property in 1843, together with Bothie-
murchus, £3,329 13s. 9d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Abernethy,
and synod of Moray. Patron, the Earl of Seafield.
Stipend, £242 Is. 8d. ; glebe, £5. Unappropriated
teinds, £110 Is. 3d. Schoolmaster's salary, fixed at
£35, with about £16 10s. fees. The present parish
church was built in 1826, and contains about 850
sittings. There is a Free church : attendance, 450 ;
sum raised in 1865, £154 13s. 4d. There are two
Society schools, ami a school of industry. The par-
ish of Rothiemurchus belongs politically to Duthil,
but was erected in 1830 into a quoad sacra parish,
and has parochial appliances of its own. See Eo-
thiemurchus.
D WARF1E STONE. See Hoy.
DWARRICK HEAD. See Dunnet.
DYCE, a parish, containing a post-office station
of its own name, 7 miles north-west of Aberdeen,
Aberdeenshire. It is bounded by Fintray, New
Machar, Old Machar, Newhills, and Kinnellar. Its
length south-eastward is 6 miles ; and its greatest
breadth is 3 miles. The river Don traces all the
northern and eastern boundary. A ridge of hills
called Tyrebeggar runs directly through the parish
from north to south. The soil near the Don is deep
and rich, producing fine crops. Agriculture is here
in an advanced state ; nearly 3,000 acres are under
cultivation. In the hilly ground of Tyrebeggar,
however, upwards of 1,000 acres are covered with
heath or underwood. There are several plantations
of larch and Scots pine. Quarries of granite have
been worked since the middle of last century ; and
dressed stones, for paving the streets and for build-
ing, were for some time sent hence in great quanti-
ties to London. On the top of one of the hills there
is a Druidieal temple, consisting of 10 rough stones
planted in a circular form. There are also several
cairns on the hills. The great North of Scotland
railway traverses the parish, and has a station in it.
There are six principal landowners. The yearly
value of raw produce was estimated in 1840 at
£7,765 18s. Assessed property in 1843, £3,570.
Population in 1831, 620; in 1861, 585. Houses, 100.
This parish is in the presbytery and synod of
Aberdeen. Patron, Gordon Cumming Skene of
Dyce. Stipend, £150 lis. 2d.; glebe, £7 10s. The
church is an old building, situated on a rocky pro-
montory, formed by a winding of the Don, and com-
mands a fine view of the river's course through the
valley for 20 miles. Schoolmaster's salary, £55 per
annum, with £14 fees.
DYE (The), a rivulet of the eastern Grampians.
It rises on the south side of Mount Battoek, at the
western extremity of Kincardineshire, and flows
about 15 miles eastward, north-eastward, and north-
ward to a confluence with the Feugh, J of a mile
above the manse of Strachan. It has a rocky irre-
gular bed, and is subject to great sudden freshets.
The glen which it traverses takes from it the name
of Glendye.
DYE (The), a rivulet of the Lammermoor dis-
trict of Berwickshire. It rises near the watershed
of the Lammermoor hills, at a point about 2J miles
east of Lammerlaw, and runs about 9 miles east-
south-eastward to a confluence with the Whitadder,
on the eastern border of the parish of Longformacus.
DYE, or West Watee (The). See Esic (Noeth).
Forfarshire.
DYKE. See Dumfeies-shike.
DYKE akd MOY, an united parish, partly in
Nairnshire, but chiefly in Morayshire. It contains
the villages of Dyke, Kintessack, "Whitemire, and
Broom of Moy. Its post-town is Forres, 2 miles
from its eastern boundary. Its two parts, Dyke
and Moy, were united to each other in 1618; and
the former is situated to the south, the latter to the
north. The united parish is bounded on the north
by the Moray frith, and on other sides by the par-
ishes of Kinloss, Forres, Edenkillie, Ardclach, and
Auldearn. Its length southwards is about 7 miles;
its breadth along the coast is about 5£ miles; and
its area is about 27 square miles. The river Find-
horn, together with its expansion toward the mouth,
forms the most of the eastern boundary, only cutting
off two pendicles from the rest of the parish. The
southern district is grandly occupied by the castle,
pleasure grounds, and forest of Damaway. See
Daenaway Castle. A great proportion of the
central districts is fertile in soil, and highly culti-
vated. There are some fine arable fields of black
and brown loam; and the surface is agreeably di-
versified with gentle slopes and flats, and orna-
mented with gardens and plantations, villas and
mansions. Along the coast, however, is that exten-
sive sandy desert called the Culbin or Mavistone
sand-hills, which stretches across all the coast oi
this parish, and extends into the adjacent parishes
of Auldearn and Kinloss, but particularly round the
mouth of the river Findhorn. Boethius represents
this as produced by the same inundation of the sea
which swept away the princely estate of Earl God-
win in Kent in 1100, leaving the notorious Godwin
sands in its room. Since the original devastation,
the sea appears to have been encroaching consider-
ably on this coast, or at least the evil has been ex-
tended by the blowing of the sand-hills. These
were originally piled up in three great hills below
Mavistone, in Auldearn parish; and from this great
reservoir the sand has been drifted towards the
north-east in such enormous quantities, that the
barony of Culbin — one of the most valuable estates
in Moray, distinguished, indeed, as ' the granary of
Moray' — was literally and entirely buried under it.
The lands were covered to the depth of several feet,
between the years 1670 and 1695, and the estate bo
much destroyed, that the proprietor petitioned parlia-
ment to be exempted from paying the ordinary
public dues. The estate still remains completely
covered up, the only traces of its former existence
being the occasional appearance of the rains of
houses, and portions of the soil still retaining seeds
having the power of vegetating, which are occasion-
ally dug up. The removal of the sand to Culbin is
said to have been accelerated by the country people
pulling up bent from the grounds in the parishes of
Dyke and Auldearn; and the practice was prohib-
ited, in consequence, by act of parliament. The en-
trance of the Findhorn into the sea has been removed
from the westward, nearly 2 miles to its present
situation; and on the spot where stood the ancient
town and harbour of Findhorn, nothing now appears
but sand and benty grass, scarcely affording meagre
pasturage to a few sheep. Besides indications of
an ancient forest visible in the bay between Find-
horn and Burgh-head, there are other traces of con-
DYKEHEAD.
493
DYSART.
Biderable changes oh the -whole sea-coast in this
vicinity. The heath of Hardmoor, which adjoins
tlio now sterile district of Culbin, is celebrated as
(ho place in which Macbeth was met by tlio weird
Bisters, while ho journeyed with Banquo from the
western islands, to meet King Duncan at the castle
of Forres. It is a dreary and dismal enough tract,
and its 'blasted' aspect well befits the imaginary
scene of such a supernatural meeting. No one can
pass this spot without having his mind full of the
horrors of the tragedy. The imagination of thou-
sands has been rivetted on it, and the poet, out of a
few meagre and uncertain traditions, lias invested
what was, perhaps, after all, but a common and
vulgar assassination, with the intense interest of a
great moral catastrophe. The dismal appearance
of Hardmoor, and also the view of the Culbin desert
from the south, have been materially softened by re-
cent thriving plantations. The New Statistical
Account of 1842 states that 3,218 imperial acres in
the entire parish are under tillage, 2,802 under wood,
1,286 in pasture, and 9,974 irreclaimable waste,
There are six principal landowners. The real rental
is about .£5,632. The yearly value of raw produce
was estimated in 1842 at £21,822. Assessed pro-
perty in 1860, £3,905 0s. Od. The principal man-
sions, besides Darnaway Castle, are Brodie House,
Dalvey House, Moy, and Kincorth, — the first an
irregular castellated edifice, comprising a modern
addition in the old English style to an old mansion,
— and the second a handsome modern building, on
the site of the old castle of Dalvey, on a pleasant
knoll. The great road from Inverness to Aberdeen
goes across the centre of the parish, and is carried
over the Findhorn by a beautiful suspension bridge.
The village of Dyke, with the church and the bury-
ing-grouud, stands on the south side of that road, 3J
miles west-south-west of Forres. The village of
Broom of Moy stands near the head of Findhorn
Loch, 2J miles north-east of Dyke. Population of
the parish in 1831, 1,451 ; in 1861, 1,247. Houses,
274. Population of the Nairnshire section in 1831,
13; in 1861, 8. House, 1.
This parish is in the presbytery of Forres, and
synod of Moray. Patrons, the Crown, and Grant
of Moy. Stipend, £252 14s. 8d.; glebe, £16. Un-
appropriated teinds, £140 2s. lid. Schoolmaster's
salary, £55 yearly, with about £30 fees, and a share
in the Dick bequest. The parish church was built
in 1781, and contains about 300 sittings. There
is a Free church: attendance, 600; sum raised
in 1865, £148 16s. 9d. There are three private
schools.
DYKEHEAD, a village in the parish of Old
Monkland, Lanarkshire. See Monkxaxd (Old).
DYROCK (The). See Kikkmichael, Ayrshire.
DYSART, a parish, containing the royal burgh
of Dysart, the post-towns of Pathhcad and Galla-
town, and the villages of Sinclairtown and Boreland,
on the south coast of Fifeshire. It is bounded by
the frith of Forth, and by the parishes of Kirk-
caldy, Anchterderran, Kinglassie, Markinch, and
Wemyss. Its length southward is 4 miles; and
its breadth varies from 1£ to 3 miles. The coast
extends between 2 and 3 miles, and is bold and
rocky. A part of it, called the Red Rocks, nearly
a mile east of the burgh, bears marks of some
dreadful convulsion, and is associated in tradition
with the burning of witches, but displays striking
features of natural sceneiy. The surface of the
parish rises with a gradual ascent for about a mile
from the coast. Ore water flows across its interior,
and Lochty water along its northern boundary, to
form a confluence at its north-eastern extremity.
About 400 acres are under wood; and all the rest of
the parish is arable. The principal landowners are
the Earl of Rosslyn, the Earl of Rothes, Oswald
of Dunnikier, and Fergus of Strathore. The valued
rent is £5,321 6s. 8d. Scots. Assessed property in
1865, £15,489 8s. 2d. West of the burgh are tho
lands of Kavcnscraig belonging to the Earl of
Rosslyn. Here, on a lofty rock which overhangs
the sea-shore, are the ruins of Ravenscraig castle,
sometimes also called Ravensheugh castle. Tho
castle and lands of Ravensheugh appear to have
belonged to the Crown at a very early period ;
but they were granted by James III., in 1470, to
William 3d Earl of Orkney, the ancestor of the
present proprietor, in return for his resignation of
that earldom to the Crown. The castle afterwards
became the residence of the descendants of the 3d
son, the Lords Sinclair, from whom it has descended
with the other estates to the present proprietor.
It was still inhabited at the time Sibbald wrote, but
it has now for many years been in ruins. Adjoining
Ravenscraig are the lands of Dunnikejh : which see.
In the northern portion of the parish is Strathore,
the property of John Fergus, Esq., which in part
anciently belonged to the Hepburns of Waughton;
and at the north-east extremity is Skeddoway, long
the property of a family of the name of Alexander,
but now the property of John Fergus Esq. Dy-
sart house, the residence of the Earl of Rosslyn, is
situated above the sea-shore to the west of the burgh.
It is a plain but neat and commodious mansion, and
commands an extensive and very beautiful view of
the frith, and of the scenery to the east. The
gardens are very beautiful. The barony of Dysarl
appears to have belonged, so early as the 13th cen-
tury, to the Sinclairs of Rosslyn. About a mile
north of the burgh is a large memorial stone, which
tradition says marks the spot where a battle was
fought with the Danes; and about half-a-mile farther
west, is a farm called Carberry, where the Romans
are said to have had a station. The remains of the
camp are said to have been formerly visible, but no
traces of it are now to be seen: the tradition is
strengthened, however, by the name of the place.
Coal was worked in this parish so early as about
four centuries ago ; and it continues still to be
worked on the estate of the Earl of Rosslyn. Ten-
nant, in his Anster fair, says,
" Then from her coal-pits Dysart vomits forth
Her subterranean men of colour dun,
Poor human mould-warps, doom'd to scrape in earth,
Cimmerian people, strangers to the sun,
Gloomy as soot, Tvith faces grim and swarth,
They march most sourly, leering; every one,
Yet very keen at Anster loan to share
The merriments and sports to be accomplished there."
The Dysart coal-mines have been repeatedly on fire,
insomuch that a calcination of the rocks by the
effects of their heat is observable for more than a
mile inland, all the way from the harbour of the
burgh. The ignition of them is supposed to havo
arisen from the spontaneous combustion of pyrites;
and it was remarkably violent in 1662. George
Agricola, the great metallurgist, who died in 1555,
takes notice of this phenomenon as occurring here.
Buchanan, from this circumstance, fixed on the
neighbourhood of Dysart for the scene of exorcism
in his ' Franciscanus,' and gives an admirable de-
scriptive view of it under the horror of an eruption:
Campus erat late incultus, non floribus horti
Arrident, non messe agri, non frondibus arbos:
Vix sterilis siccis vestitur arena myricis;
Et pecorum rara in solis vestigia terris:
Vicini Descrta vocant Ibi saxea subter
Antra tegunt nigras vulcania semina eautes:
Sulphureis passim concepta incendia venis.
Fumiferam volvunt nebulani, piceoque vapor*?
DYSART.
494
DYSART.
8eniper anhelat humus: cfficisque inclusa cavernis
Flamma furen9, dum lactando penetrare sub auras
Conatur, totis passim spiracula campis
Findit, et ingenti tellurem pandit iiiatu:
Teter odor tristisque habitus faciesque locorum.
There are beds of ironstone lying below the coal,
which are also worked where they come near the
surface. The ironstone is usually shipped for Car-
ron works ; a ton is said to yield 12 cwt. of iron.
There are also limestone and freestone quarries.
The principal manufacture in the parish was for-
merly that of checks and ticks, which was introduced
about the commencement of the last century. In
1836 the number of looms employed was about
2,088; the quantity of cloth annually made was
supposed to be about 31,006,720 yards. There
are at present an extensive power -loom linen
factory, an extensive suit of chemical works, a mill
for spinning flax, a pottery for making stoneware,
a rope- work, and a patent slip-dock for repairing
vessels. The Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee rail-
way traverses the parish, and has stations in it at
Dysart and Sinclairtown. Population in 1831,
7,104; in 1861, 8,842. Houses, 1,211.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcaldy, and
synod of Fife. It is a collegiate charge, a second
minister having been established in 1620. The
patron of both charges is the Earl of Eosslyn. The
stipend of the first minister is £265 10s. 5d.; glebe,
£21. He is also entitled to a fish-teind which is of
little value and never exacted; 16 chalders of salt,
worth about £3 10s. per annum; a supply of coals,
worth about £9 per annum ; and 15s. 1 Od. yearly from
some old buildings feued to the patron. The stipend
of the second minister is £207 lis. 3d., with coals;
but he has neither manse nor glebe. The unappro-
priated teinds amount to £714 4s. 7d. The parish
church is a plain building, erected in 1802, and con-
taining 1,800 sittings. There is a chapel of ease at
Pathhead, built in 1823, and containing 970 sittings.
The patronage of it is vested in such male heads of
families as are communicants. There are three
Free churches, at respectively Dysart, Pathhead,
and Dunnikier; and the sum raised in 1865 in con-
nexion with the first was £159 16s. 8Jd., — with the
spcond, £417 3s. 9id.,— with the third, £226 17s. lOd.
There is likewise an United Presbyterian church
in Dysart. The Census of 1851 exhibits in the
parliamentary burgh of Dysart — which consists
wholly of the southern or townward part of the
parish of Dysart — one Establishment place of wor-
ship and one United Presbyterian church which
made no returns of their sittings or attendance, two
Establishment places of worship, with 2,770 sittings
and an attendance of 1,140, an Original Secession
church, with 800 sittings and an attendance of 330,
one United Presbyterian church, with 420 sittings
and an attendance of 336, two Free churches, with
1 ,250 sittings and an attendance of 955, and one
Mormon place of worship, with 81 sittings and an
attendance of 84. The parochial or rather burgh
school is situated in the town of Dysart, and is
well-attended. The teacher is paid, partly from the
town-funds, and partly from money mortified for
the purpose, the sum of £50 per annum, besides his
school-fees. At Pathhead there is a school endowed
by the late Mr. Philp of Edenshead, for the educa-
tion of 100 children, who also receive a yearly
allowance for clothing. There are in the parish 12
other schools. There are also two subscription
libraries, two public reading-rooms, and several
friendly societies and other institutions.
The Town of Dtsart stands on the coast of
the parish, 2 miles north-north-east of Kirkcaldy,
8 north-east of Burntisland, and 16 south-south-
west of Cupar. It is a good specimen of the
curious old Flemish-looking towns of the coast of
Fifeshire. An excellent view of it is obtained from
the exterior. The town comprises three principal
streets, all narrow, with a kind of square in the
centre. The central or High street presents a num-
ber of antique substantial houses, having dates and
inscriptions on their fronts. Many of them had
piazzas on the ground-floor, where the merchants
exposed their goods for sale; but these are now
mostly built up. In the centre of the town is the
town -house, which contains a council -hall, the
prison, the weigh-house, and the guard-house. It
is a plain building, ornamented with a tower and
spire. Fortunately the prison requires to be but
seldom used. The harbour, though not deficient in
size for the trade, was formerly very unsafe; the
swell, when there was a gale from the east, being
so great that vessels were driven from their moor-
ings and nearly wrecked within it. A number of
years ago, however, an adjoining quarry was con-
verted into a wet dock, which has 18 feet of water,
and is sufficient to contain 17 or 18 vessels of differ-
ent burden, exclusive of the old or outer harbour.
So far back as 1450, salt was manufactured and
shipped at Dysart, not only to other places in Scot-
land, but to Holland and the Continent; fish was
also exported, as also great quantities of coal; and
at an early period malting and brewing were carried
on to a great extent. In fact Dysart enjoyed a
large share of the trade which the different burghs
on the north side of the Forth anciently possessed,
and its inhabitants, for the most part, were in such
good condition that an old song characterises them
as "the canty carles o' Dysart." But the same
circumstances which destroyed the trade of the
other burghs, had a destructive effect upon that of
this town. Its trade decayed, and its shipping
rapidly disappeared. A few brigs, and a few sloops,
are all that now belong to the harbour; and foreign
vessels seldom visit it, except a few from Holland
or the Baltic. A daily steamer plies between it and
Newhaven; and ample inland communication is en-
joyed by means of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dun-
dee railway.
Dysart is a royal burgh, and joins with Kirk-
caldy, Kinghorn, and Burntisland in sending a
member to parliament. It was originally a burgh-
of- barony holding of the St. Clairs of Rosslyn, and
subsequently of the Lords Sinclair. About the be-
ginning of the 16th century, it was erected into a
royal burgh; but the early charters have been
lost. About 23 years ago, the burgh was disfran-
chised, in consequence of some informality at the
election of the magistrates; and its affairs were
then placed under the superintendence of three
managers appointed by the court of session. Again,
however, it has its own provost, two bailies, and a
council. The corporation revenue in 1838-9 was
£908,— in 1864-5, £984 0s. Od. The royal burgh
comprises only Dysart proper; but the parliamentary
burgh comprehends also the neighbouring villages.
Municipal constituency, 41 ; parliamentary consti-
tuency, 186. Population of the royal burgh in
1831,1,801; in 1861, 1,755. Houses, 214. Pop-
ulation of the parliamentary burgh in 1861, 8,066.
Houses, 1,073.
Near the middle of Dysart harbour is a high rock
called the Fort, which is said to have been fortified
by Oliver Cromwell ; but no part of the works now
remains. Although not mentioned in Spottiswoode's
list of religious houses, there is said to have been a
priory of black friars in Dysart, the chapel of which
was dedicated to St. Dennis. Part of the old wall
of this chapel, which still retains its name, }'et re-
DYSAET.
405
EAGLESHAM.
mains, but it has for a long period been converted
into a smithy. Near the chapel of St. Dennis is the
old church of Dysart, which bears the marks of
having been a handsome piece of architecture in its
time. On ono of the windows is the date 1570; but
the steeple and the porch bear marks of greater an-
tiquity. In 16-43, William Murray, the son of the
parish minister of Dysart, and an intimate associate
in youth of Charles 1., was raised by that sovereign
to the dignities of Earl of Dysart and Baron Hunt-
ingtower. He was much employed in important
negociations during the civil wars. He left two
daughters, the eldest of whom inherited his titles,
and married first Sir Lionel Tollemache of Hclm-
ingham, in the county of Suffolk, and afterwards the
infamous Duke of Lauderdale. Her offspring by
her first husband inherited the titles. Of this
family there was, in the time of Edward I. of Eng-
land, one Hugh de Tollemache, who held of the
Crown the manor of Bentley, in the county of Suf-
folk; and, in the 29th year of that monarch's reign,
had summons to attend the expedition into Scotland.
The present Earl of Dysart has seats in three Eng-
lish counties, but no seat in Scotland.
DYSAET, a district of the parish of Maryton,
Forfarshire. See Maryton.
E
EACHAIG (The), a small river of the district of
Cowal, Argyleshire. It issues from Loch Eck, and
flows nearly 4 miles south-eastward, along a glen
of its own name, to the head of the Holy Loch.
Two tributaries fall into it, — the Massan, near the
house of Benmore, and the Little Eachaig very near
its mouth, — the former coming from Glenmassan,
and the latter from Glenlean. The Eachaig affords
good trout and par fishing. See Eck (Loch) and
Dunoon.
EAGERNESS, a headland on the north-east side
of Garlieston bay, in the parish of Sorbie, Wigton-
shire. It projects about a mile from the mainland,
and has an average breadth of about J of a mile;
and it terminates in a rocky but not very high point.
An old castle stood on this point, and seems to have
been a place of considerable strength, but has nearly
disappeared, and does not figure in history.
EAGLE. See Edzell.
EAGLES, Eccles, or Eglis, a prefix in some
Scottish topographical names, variously Latin,
Gaelic, and French, and signifying a church or
place of worship.
EAGLESCAKNIE. See Bolton.
EAGLESFIELD, a village in the parish of Mid-
dlebie, Dumfries-shire. Population, 499.
EAGLESHAM, a parish, containing a post-office
village of its own name, and forming the south-
eastern portion of the county of Renfrew. It ex-
tends about 6 miles from east to west, and about 7
from north to south; and is bounded on the north-
west by Mearns, in the same county; on the south-
west by Fenwick, and on the south by Loudoun,
both in Ayrshire ; and on the east by Carmunnock
and East Kilbride, both in Lanarkshire. The soil
is various. The higher and western districts con-
sist partly of dry heath, and partly of deep moss,
with a number of green hills, and much natural
meadow-ground. The moors are among the best in
Scotland for game. The arable land in the lower
districts is very productive. The whole palish en-
joys free air and excellent water, and is remarkably
healthy. The river White Cart takes its rise out
of the "moors of Eaglesham and East Kilbride, and
in its course northward divides the counties of Lan-
ark and Renfrew. The water of Earn, a tributary
of the Cart, flows on the boundary with Mearns.
The Borland burn and the Mains water drain all the
central districts northward to the Cart. Small lakes
and reservoirs for mills cover about 240 acres. The
whole parochial surface lies comparatively high
above sea-level, — the best arable lands from 500
to 800 feet, part of the village itself about 800
feet; yet the tops of the highest hills, Balagich,
Dunovan, Mires, and Blackwood, not more than
from 1,000 to 1,200 feet. If all the land were to be
distributed into 246 portions, about 102 of these
would be found to be under cultivation, 53 in
meadow or in natural pasture, 90 in a state of moss
or moor, and 1 under wood. Near the whole of it
belongs to Gilmour of Eaglesham and Gilmour of
Polnoon. The yearly value of raw produce has
been estimated at about £20,000. The value of as-
sessed property in 1860 was.£ll, 350. Therocksofthe
parish, with very slight exception, are alternations of
greenstone, claystone, and wacke, — part of the great
mass of trap which prevails so extensively in the
hills of the county. At Balagich there have been
observed several pieces of barytes. There are also
found large masses of osmond stone, which stands
the strongest heat without renting, and is, therefore,
used in building ovens and other furnaces. The
estate of Eaglesham formed part of the extensive
grant made by David I. to Walter, the founder of
the House of Stewart, before the middle of the 12th
century. By Walter it was transferred to Robert
de Montgomery, who was one of those knights that
accompanied him when he migrated from England
to Scotland. This estate, which was the first and,
for two centuries, the chief possession of the Scot-
tish family of Montgomery, continued to he their pro-
perty, undiminished, for the long period of seven
hundred years. For their succession to the Eglin-
ton estates and their elevation to the peerage, see
article Eglinton Castle. Between the Cart and the
rivulet called Mains water, part of the ruins of the
castle of Polnoon, or Ponoon, may still be traced.
It was built by Sir John Montgomery of Eaglesham,
with the money received for the ransom of Henry
Percy, the celebrated Hotspur, whom he took
prisoner with his own hand at the battle of Otter-
bum, in 1388. It is said that the ransom being
called poind money, the name Polnoon was thence
derived; hut this seems strained and far-fetched.
Polnoon lodge, which stands on the north-east of
the village of Eaglesham, is a small mansion of
EAGLESHAM.
496
EAELSFEKRY.
modem construction, belonging toGilmourof Eagles-
ham. There are a large cotton-mill at the village,
and a small one at Millhall. There is also a corn-
mill at the village. Population of the parish in
1831, 2,372 ; in 1861, 2,328. Houses, 236.
This parish is in the presbytery of Glasgow, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Gilmour of
Eaglesham. Stipend, £284 'Os. 6d. ; glebe, £25. Un-
appropriated teinds, £850 16s. 5d. Schoolmaster's
salary, £52 10s., and £7 other emoluments. The
parish church was built in 1790, and contains 550
sittings. There are an United Presbyterian church,
with 480 sittings, and a Reformed Presbyterian
church, with about 400 sittings. There is 'also
a Free church preaching-station ; the sum raised at
which in 1865, was £37 10s. There are three pri-
vate schools, a small public library, and a. friendly
society.— Robert Pollock, the author of ' The Course
of Time,' was a native of this parish. He was born
at North Moorhouse in 1798, was licensed to preach
in connexion with the United Associate Synod in
1827, and died of consumption in the autumn of the
sime year. In his sketches of inanimate nature he
returns again and again to the scenery of his be-
loved home :
11 'Mong Mils, and streams,
And melancholy deserts, where the sun
Saw, as he passed, n shepherd only here
And there watching his little flock, or heard
The ploughman talking to his steers."
To the trees which overshadowed the paternal man-
sion, his verse thus pays homage: —
" Much of my native scenery appears,
And presses forward to be in my song;
But must not now : for much behind awaits
Of higher note. Four trees I pass not by.
Which o'er our house their evening shadow threw : —
Three ash, and one of elm. Tall trees they were,
And old; and had been old a century
Before my day. None living could say aught
About their youth ; but they were goodly trees ;
And oft I wondered, as I sat and thought
Beneath their summer shade, or in the night
Of winter heard the spirits of the wind
Growling among their boughs, — how they had grown
So high in such a rough tempestuous place :
And when a hapless branch, torn by the blast.
Fell down, I mourned as if a friend had fallen."
The Village of Eaglesham stands on the south-
east side of the parish, about a mile from the White
Cart, 9 miles south of Glasgow, 11 south-east of
Paisley, and 12 south-west of Hamilton. In the
reign of Charles II. it was of such importance that
a weekly market was established in it by act of par-
liament. But in 1796, the old village was demolish-
ed, and a new one began to be built on a plan which
had been formed two years before by the tenth Earl
of Eglinton, a nobleman of fine taste, who, how-
ever, did not live to see his plan completed. The
present village consists chiefly of two rows of
houses, generally of two stories, facing each other
at the distance of 100 yards at the upper, and 250
at the lower end, the nature of the ground not ad-
mitting of a more regular line of street. The houses
have each a kitchen-garden at the back. Midway
between the rows there runs a streamlet to which,
from each side, there is a gentle descent, partly
formed into washing greens, and partly embellished
with trees. Upon the whole, the appearance of this
village is eminently beautiful. The parish church,
situated on one side of it, near the middle, is a hand-
some octagonal structure, with a steeple. The cot-
ton mill stands at the upper end, on the streamlet.
The village feus are for 999 years at a moderate
ground rent. A large proportion of the inhabitants
are cotton weavers. Yearly fairs are held on the
24th of April, old style, and on the last Thursday
of August. Daily communication is maintained by
omnibus with Glasgow. Population 1,769.
EAGLESHAY, or Egilsuay, an island in Ork-
ney, belonging to the parish of Rousay, separated
by Howa Sound on the west from the island of Rou-
say, and situated about 10 miles north of Kirkwall.
It is 3f miles in length from north to south, and about
1 mile in breadth. It is a pleasant low-lying island,
and contains a small fresh-water lake. The rocks
are sandstone and sandstone flag, the strata of which
in some places are very much elevated. The coast
is in general sandy. In the north is a large tract
of sand covered with bent, and sheltering great num-
bers of rabbits. This island is celebrated for hav-
ing been the place where St. Magnus was murdered.
It was formerly a vicarage, united to the ancient
vicarage of Rousay. At the west end of the island
is a small Gothic church, which was dedicated to St.
Magnus. It has a pyramidical steeple at the west
end ; and at the east end is a vaulted choir which
joins to the body of the church. The church is said
to have been erected on the very spot where St.
Magnus was murdered. Population in 1831, 228;
in 1861, 205. Houses, 27.
EAGLESHAY, or Egilshay, an island in Shet-
land, about ]£ mile in length and in breadth, be-
longing to the parish of Northmaven. It is situated
in Islesburgh cove, on the east of St. Magnus bay,
and is an excellent island for grazing. It abounds
with rabbits.
EAGTON LANE. See Doon (The).
EALAN. SeeELLAK.
EARL'S BURN. See Denky, and Ninian's (St.).
EARL'S CROSS. See Doenoch.
EARLSFERRY, an ancient royal burgh, in the
parish of Kilconquhar, Fifeshire. It stands on the
coast, about ^ a mile east of Kincraig, about the
same distance west of Elie, 3 miles south of Colins-
burgh, and 5 miles east-south-east of Largo. It is
a very decayed place, with only the importance of
a village. The town-house, in the middle of it, is
an old building, surmounted by a spire, in which
there is a clock and bell. It contains the town-hall,
and formerly contained a cell for criminals, — which
has been superseded by sending them to the jail at
Cupar. The town shares in the gas-work, the sav-
ings' bank, the communications, and the trade of
Elie. Population in 1841, 496; in 1861, 395.
Houses, 90.
The tradition is that Earlsferry was originally
constituted a burgh by Malcolm III., between 1057
and 1093, at the request of Macduff, the Maormor
of Fife, who, in his flight from the vengeance of
Macbeth, was concealed in a cave at Kincraig point,
which still bears his name, and was afterwards fer-
ried across the frith to Dunbar by the fishermen of
the place. From this circumstance it was called
Earlsferry; and it likewise obtained the privilege
that the persons of all who should cross the frith
from thence should be for a time inviolable, no boat
being allowed to leave the shore in pursuit, till those
who had already sailed were half-way over. There
does not seem any reason to doubt the fact of Mac-
duff having been concealed in the cave at Kincraig,
nor that he was assisted in making his escape to the
opposite coast by the inhabitants of the village in
its neighbourhood. But the erection of this village
into a royal burgh must have been at a subsequent
period, and was probably done at the request of one
of the descendants of the great Macduff. The Cel-
tic people of Scotland erected no royal burghs ; and
we have no evidence of any earlier than the reign
of David I. or Malcolm IV. The title of Earl, too,
was equally unknown to the Celts; so that the name
of Earlsferry must have been bestowed at a subse-
EARLSHALL.
407
EARLSTON.
quent period, though in commemoration of the es-
cape of Macduff. Earlsferry, however, is a burgh of
great antiquity ; but its earliest charter, the date of
which is unknown, was destroyed by fire in Edin-
burgh. A new charter was in consequence granted
by James IV., in which it is narrated that the burgh
of Earlsferry was " of old past memory of men
erected into ane free burgh," &c. Bv this charter
all its ancient privileges and immunities were re-
newed and confirmed. A considerable trade is said
at one time to have been carried on here, and two
annual fairs and two weekly markets to have been
held. This has long been at an end, and the fairs
and markets have long been discontinued. The
want of a proper harbour must always have been a
great drawback; and the erection of a pier and for-
mation of a harbour at Elie were necessarily very
damaging. The magistrates of Earlsferry have the
same powers with other magistrates of royal burghs;
but it does not appear that at any time Earlsferry
had exercised its privilege of sending a commis-
sioner to the Scottish parliament.
EARLSHALL, an estate on the south side of the
parish of Leuchars, Fifcshire. It is said by Sib-
bald to have been anciently a portion of the estates
of the Earls of Fife, who had a residence here,
whence it derived its title of Earlshall. The fine
old house of Earlshall is beautifully situated amid
venerable trees, and forms an exceedingly interest-
ing object in the landscape. It appears, from ini-
tials, arms, and dates, on various parts of the house
and offices, to have been erected towards the close
of the 16th or beginning of the 17th century; but
principally by William Bruce, whose initials and
arms with those of his wife, Dame Agnes Lindsay,
and the dates 1617 and 1620, are still to be seen.
The house was inhabited until sold to the present
proprietor, and might at no great expense be still
rendered habitable. The object of greatest interest
is the great hall, which is 50 feet in length by 18 in
breadth, with a fine arched roof on which are painted
and emblazoned the amis of the family and of a
number of noble families with whom they claimed
affinity.
EARL'S HILL, a hill on the west side of the
parish of St. Ninian's, 6 miles south-west of Stir-
ling. It is a continuation of the Kilsyth hills,
forming the north-eastern part of the Lennox range,
but is less than 1,000 feet in height. See Ninian's
(St.).
EARL'S SEAT HILL. See Bi-ain (The).
EARLSTON, a parish, containing the post-town
of Earlston, and the villages of Fans, Netherstain,
and Redpath, in the south of Lauderdale, Berwick-
shire. It is bounded on the north by Legerwood
and Gordon ; on the east by Hume and Nenthorn ;
on the south by Roxburghshire and Merton ; and
on the west by Leader water, which divides it from
Roxburghshire. Its form is somewhat oblong,
stretching from east to west, but with deep inden-
tations on both sides in the middle. From Hardie's-
mill-place on the east, to the top of a projection near
Kedslie on the west, it measures 6 miles ; but in
breadth it varies from 3J miles at the western limit,
and 2 miles near the eastern limit, to a mile at the
middle. A hill in the centre of the western division
rises nearly 1,000 feet above the level of the sea,
and was probably the site of a Roman encampment.
In the eastern division, and near the northern and
southern limits of the western, are other hills less
elevated, which differ just sufficiently from the fea-
tures of lowland scenery to give the district a pas-
toral aspect. Other parts of the parish, especially
those along the banks of the Leader, and those of
the south-eastern division, are comparatively fiat.
The Leader comes down upon the north-western
angle from the north, cuts off a small projecting
wing, forms the boundary-line for a distance of 34.
miles, strikes the Tweed at a point where that noble
river offers to become the southern boundary, and
drives it off south-eastward along the margin of the
conterminous parish of Merton. During the whole
course of its connexion with Earlston, the Leader is
a stream of no common beauty, meandering among
the hills and groves of Carolside, sweeping past the
western base of the classic Cowdenknowes [which
see], and merrily careering between the richly-
wooded slopes of Drygrange and Kirklands, till it
pays its tribute to the queen-river of the south. One
of the head-waters of the Eden rises about a mile
east of the Leader's bed on the northern limits of
the parish, and, joined in its progress by other rills
which unite with it to form the main stream, it
forms the boundary-line, first over most of the north
and next over all the east, during a course of about
8 miles. While skirting along the north it is an
uninteresting rill, cold in its appearance, and
naked in its scenery; but after it sweeps round
to flow along the east, it is overlooked on the
side of Earlston by a phalanx of plantation \\
mile deep, and partakes, in a degree suited to its
bulk as an infant river, the lively character of the
Leader. Two other rills rise in the interior, and
flow respectively toward the Leader and the Eden,
contributing their tiny frolics to the gladsomeness
of the general scene. If the entire parochial
area were distributed into 216 parts, 140 of them
would be found to be under cultivation, 53 in hill-
pasture or a state of waste, and 23 under wood.
The soil, in some of the arable parts, is clay; in
some, is a light dry loam ; and in several is strong,
rich, and very fertile. There are four principal
landowners. The chief mansions are the splendid
edifice of Mellerstain on the east, and the houses of
Cowdenknowes and Carolside on the Leader. The
parish is intersected, in its eastern division, by the
road from Edinburgh to Kelso by way of Lauder,
and has several other roads diverging from the vil-
lage of Earlston. Population in 1831, 1,710; in
1861, 1,825. Houses, 327. Assessed property in
1864, £11,119.
This parish is in the presbytery of Lauder, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £217 14s. 6d.; glebe, £37. Unappro-
priated teinds, £217 14s. 6d. Schoolmaster's sal-
ary, £43, with £40 for retired schoolmaster. The
parish church was built in 1736, and repaired and
enlarged in 1834, and contains 650 sittings. There
are in the village of Earlston two United Presbyte-
rian churches, designated the East and the West, a
Free church preaching-station, asubscription library,
a friendly society of peculiar kind, and a total absti
nence society. Attendance at the West United Pres
byterian church, 230. Sum raised in 1865 at the Free
church station, £5 5s. 9d. There are a Free church
school and four other schools. — The ancient name
of the parish was Ercildoune or Ersildun, — a word
of Cambro-British origin, signifying ' the prospect-
hill,' and alluding probably to a height in the vici-
nity of the original church, to the south of the vil-
lage, whence a fine view is obtained of the vales of
the Leader and the Tweed. — The church of Ercil-
doune was given, at the middle of the 12th century,
to the monks of Kelso; and was transferred by them,
about the year 1171, to the monks of Coldingham,
in exchange for the church of Gordon; and it re-
mained with the latter, and was served by a vicar
till the Reformation. Ercildoune was occasionally the
residence of King David I. — The manor was held
in the twelfth century by the family of Lindsay,
2 I
EAELSTON.
498
EAELSTON.
and afterwards passed into the possession of the
Earls of Dunbar. And from this circumstance arose
the corruption of the ancient name into the modern
form of Earlston.
The Village of Earlston stands on the left hank
of the Leader, 6 miles south-south-east of Lauder.
It consists principally of one long street, at right
angles with the river, and stretching away to the
east ; and presents to the eye two rows of one-story
houses, interrupted occasionally by buildings of
larger bulk and greater pretension, used as inns ox-
shops. The inhabitants are chiefly weavers and
agricultural labourers. The fabrics woven are
blankets, plaidings, flannels, merinos, shawls, mus-
lins, shirtings, furniture stripes, and very stout ging-
hams.— the last now well known throughout the
country as Earlston ginghams. It has an office of
the National Bank, and two factories. Cattle fairs
are held on the 29th of June and the third Thursday
of October. _ Population, 980.
Earlston is not a little famous as the birth-place
and residence of Thomas Learmont or Learmonth,
who flourished during the latter half of the 13th
century, and is popularly called Thomas the Rhy-
mer. His dwelling-house, or peel-tower, stood on
low ground between the west end of the village and
the Leader. He lived there as tenant in fee of the
opulent barons of the soil; and part of one of the
walls of his house still remains. A stone also stands
embedded in the wall of the church, the compara-
tively modern substitute of one more ancient, bear-
ing the inscription, "Auld Rhymer's race lies in
this place." Thomas was a poet. But he is cele-
brated among the lower orders throughout Scotland
solely on account of his reputed character of a pro-
phet, and in connexion with the rhyming distichs
— often of doubtful meaning, and apparently of mul-
titudinous origin — which float on the tide of tradi-
tion, and along the currents of ancient legendary
literature. From some combination of causes easily
intelligible by those who have peered behind the
curtain of the confessional, and studied the expedi-
ences of the cloister, Thomas appears to have been
made, with the help of a little astuteness in observ-
ing cbaracter and perspicacity in calculating moral
chances, an expert tool of priestcraft — either on his
private adventure, or more probably in combination
with the monks of Coldingham, who had power over
him as the owners of Ercildoune church, and dived
deep into the politics of the court — for swaying the
wills and influencing the conduct of wealthy and
potent individuals in an age of the nobility's intense
enslavement, and subjection to enormous pecuniary
mulctings, by the pressure of superstition. Ob-
taining credit with the great and the influential for
being a true prophet, — a credit which could be
facilely manufactured out of a few clever verified
conjectures, and a few predictions either spoken
after the event, and promulged as spoken before it,
or framed in combination with concerted means to
effect their fulfilment, — he, as a matter of course,
was rapidly viewed as a superhumanly gifted being
by the multitude, and became associated, in the
fancy of an ignorant people, with ideas and legends
of whatever methods and invisible communications
would be supposed to aid him in looking clearly
down the vista of futurity. The faith which remote
pastoral districts, and even many of the lower
classes in sections of the country freely plied with
the influences of enlightenment, still repose in the
genuineness of his pretended prophetic character —
especially as that character stands wholly connected
with matters of very trivial importance, and super-
latively contrasted to the moral grandeur, unutter-
able magnificence, and altogether surpassing worth
of the details of true prophecy, as given in written
revelation — is just one humiliating evidence among
several, that the pestilential fogs of the middle ages
have not yet been dispersed by the reclaiming of the
moral marshes of the land.
Sir Walter Scott, in his introduction to the ballad
of ' Thomas the Rhymer,' says : " It cannot be
doubted, that Thomas of Ercildoune was a remark-
able and important person in his own time, since,
very shortly after his death, we find him celebrated
as a prophet and as a poet. Whether he himself
made any pretensions to the first of these charac-
ters, or whether it was gratuitously conferred upon
him by the credulity of posterity, it seems difficult
to decide. If we may believe Mackenzie, Learmont
only versified the prophecies delivered by'Eliza, an
inspired nun of a convent at Haddington. But of
this there seems not to be the most distant proof.
On the contrary, all ancient authors, who quote the
Rhymer's prophecies, uniformly suppose them to
have been emitted by himself. Thus, in Winton's
' Chronicle ' —
' Of this fycht quilum spak Thomas
Of Ersyldoune, that sayd in derne,
There suld meit stalwartly, starke and Sterne.
He sayd it in his prophecy ;
But how he wist it was/erfy.'
There could have been no ferhj (marvel) in Win-
ton's eyes at least, how Thomas came by his know
ledge of future events, had he ever heard of the in
spired nun of Haddington, which, it cannot be doubt-
ed, would have been a solution of the mystery, much
to the taste of the prior of Lochleven. Whatever
doubts, however, the learned might have, as to the
source of the Rhymer's prophetic skill, the vulgar
had no hesitation to ascribe the whole to the inter-
course between the bard and the queen of Faery.
The popular tale hears, that Thomas was carried off,
at an early age, to the fairy land, where he acquired
all the knowledge which made him afterwards so
famous. After 7 years' residence, he was permitted
to return to the earth, to enlighten and astonish his
countrymen by his prophetic powers ; still, how-
ever, remaining bound to return to his royal mis-
tress, when she should intimate her pleasure. Ac-
cordingly, while Thomas was making merry with
his friends in the tower of Ercildoune, a person came
running in, and told, with marks of fear and asto-
nishment, that a hart and bind had left the neigh-
bouring forest, and were, composedly and slowly,
parading the street of the village. The prophet
instantly arose, left his habitation, and followed the
wonderful animals to the forest, whence he was
never seen to return. According to the popular be-
lief, he still ' drees his weird' in Fairy land, and is
one day expected to revisit earth. In the mean-
while, his memory is held in the most profound re-
spect. The Eildon tree, from beneath the shade of
which he delivered his prophecies, now no longer
exists; but the spot is marked by a large stone,
called Eildon tree stone. A neighbouring rivulet
takes the name of the Bogle burn from the Rl^mer's
supernatural visitants. The veneration paid to his
dwelling-place even attached itself in some degree
to a person, who within the memory of man, chose
to set up his residence in the ruins of Learmont's
tower. The name of this man was Murray, a kind
of herbalist ; who, by dint of some knowledge in
simples, the possession of a musical clock, an elec-
trical machine, and a stuffed alligator, added to a
supposed communication with Thomas the Rhymer,
lived for many years in very good credit as a
wizard."
EARLSTON, Kirkcudbrightshire. See Boequb
and Dalry.
EAEN.
499
EAKN.
EARN (Bkidoe of), a pnst-officc village in tlio
parish of Dunbarnie, Perthshire. It stands on the
river Earn, and on the road from Perth to Edinburgh,
4 miles south-south-east of Perth. It has a station
on the Perth fork of the Edinburgh, Perth, and
J hmdee railway. It may be said to consist of two
parts, an old and a new. The old part was founded
in 1760, on an acre and a half of ground, between
the old bridge over the Earn and the Scales bridge,
leased for 99 years. The new part was begun in
1832, for the accommodation of strangers frequenting
the mineral wells of Pitcaithly. The plan for the
now part was symmetrical, and produced a row or
street of houses which has been much admired for
its architecture. The bridge across the river which
gave name to the village was very ancient and very
bad, and has all been removed except a fragment.
A handsome bridge of three arches was built instead
of it, and is in fine keeping, as to features, with the
new village. On the hanks of the river adjacent to
the new bridge, stands one of the most commodious
hotels in Scotland. The village has also a ball-
room, a library, and other appurtenances of a fashion-
able summer resort. The whole place, with its
environs, has a pleasant appearance, and looks to
bo snugly nestling amid the riant beauties of the
strath. Population, 3S1. See Dunbaknie and Pit-
caithly.
EARN (Loch), a fresh-water lake, at the head of
Strathearn, in Perthshire. It commences at the
foot of Glen-Ogle, on the eastern boundary of the
parish of Balquidder, and extends eastward, along
a glen of its own, within the parish of Comrie. Its
length is about 7 miles; its breadth is from 1 to 1J
mile; audits depth, in many places, is about 100
fathoms. Its temperature varies little throughout
the year; so that not only is the lake itself never
known to freeze, even in the most intense frost, but
even the river Earn, which flows from it, seldom if
ever freezes till it has run a distance from it of at
least 5 miles. There is a road along each side of
the lake, from the village of St. Fillans at its foot
to the village of Loehearnhead at its head, — each
road perfectly facile, and affording excellent views :
but if any tourist have not time or taste to travel
both, so as to make the entire circuit of the lake, he
will find the south road the preferable one, on ac-
count of the larger and finer views of the opposite
hill-screens.
There are few Scottish lakes more worthy of a
visit than Loch Earn. Its shore throughout, and for
at least half-a-mile inland, is clothed with thriving
copse and brushwood, — creating continual changes
of the scenery, and a succession of the most pic-
turesque and romantic views. Beyond these woods,
on every side, hills and mountains arise, piercing
the clouds with their lofty summits, and adding
grandeur and sublimity to the scene. Looking from
either end of the lake, the view is peculiarly mag-
nificent: the whole valley can be seen at once, —
with its enormous vista of mountains enclosing all
around,— the transparent lake which forms its glassy
centre, — and the beautiful fringing of wood with
which the base of the mountains and the shores of
the lake are adorned. Dr. Macculloch says: "Limit-
ed as are the dimensions of Loch Earn, it is exceed-
ed in beauty by few of our lakes, as far as it is
possible for many beauties to exist in so small a
space. I will not say that it presents a great num -
her of distinct landscapes adapted for the pencil ;
but such as it does possess are remarkable for their
consistency of character, and for a combination of
sweetness and simplicity, with a grandeur of manner
scarcely to be expected within such narrow bounds.
Its style is that of a lake of far greater dimensions;
the hills which bound it being lofty and bold and
rugged, with a variety of character not found in
many of even far greater magnitude and extent.
It is a miniature and a model of scenery that might
well occupy ten times the space. Yet the eye docs
not feel this. There is nothing trifling or small in
the details; nothing to diminish its grandeur of
style, to tell us that we are contemplating a reduced
copy. On the contrary, there is a perpetual contest
between our impressions and our reasonings: we
know that a few short miles comprehend the whole,
and yet we feel as if it was a landscape of many
miles, a lake to be ranked among those of the first
order and dimensions. While its mountains thus
rise in majestic simplicity to the sky, terminating
in those bold and various and rocky outlines which
belong to so much of this geological line, from
Dunkeld and Killicrankie, even to Loch Katrine,
the surfaces of the declivities are equally various
and bold, — enriched with precipices and masses of
protruding rock, with deep hollows and ravines, and
with the courses of innumerable torrents which
pour from above, and, as they descend, become
skirted with trees till they lose themselves in the
waters of the lake. Wild woods also ascend along
their surface, in all that irregularity of distribution
so peculiar to these rocky mountains, — less solid
and continuous than at Loch Lomond, less scatter-
ed and less romantic than at Loch Katrine, but
from these very causes, aiding to confer on Loch
Earn a character entirely its own. If the shores of
the lake are not deeply marked by bays and pro-
montories, still they are sufficiently varied ; nor is
there one point where the hills reach the water in
that meagre and insipid manner which is the fault
of so many of our lakes, and which is the case
throughout the far greater part even of Loch Kat-
rine. Loch Earn has no blank. Such as its beauty
is, it is always consistent and complete. Its shores,
too, are almost everywhere accessible, and almost
everywhere so wooded as to produce those fore-
grounds which the spectator so much desires; while,
from the same cause, they present much of that
species of shore scenery which is independent of
the mountain boundary. Elegant ash-trees spring-
ing from the very water, and drooping their branch-
es over it, green and cultivated banks, rocky points
divided by gravelly beaches, which are washed by
the bright curling waves of the lake, the brawling
stream descending along its rocky and wooded
channel, and the cascade tumbling along the preci-
pice, which rises from the deep and still water below,
— these and the richly cultivated and green margin,
with the houses and traces of art that ornament its
banks, produce in themselves pictures of great va-
riety, marked by a character of rural sweetness and
repose, not commonly found among scenery of this
class. Thus also the style of Loch Earn varies, as
we assume different points of elevation for our views,
and perhaps in a greater degree than any of the
Highland lakes,— assuredly more than in any one
of similar dimensions. At the lower levels, and
perhaps most of all at the western extremity where
the banks are lowest, and at the eastern, where the
beautifully wooded island forms a leading object in
the picture, every landscape is marked by tranquil-
lity and gentleness of character, — a character adapt-
ed to glassy waters and summer suns, to the verdure
of spring and the repose of evening. High up on
the hills, the grandeur of the bold alpine landscape
succeeds to the tranquillity of the rural one; and
amid the wild mountain forms, and the rude mag-
nificence of aspiring rocks and precipices, enhanced
and embellished by the gleaming lights of a troubled
sky and the passage of clouds, we almost forget the
EARN.
500
EAEN.
placid and cultivated scenes we have just quitted,
and imagine ourselves transported to some remote
spot of the distant Highlands. "
Benvoirlich is the loftiest of those mountains
which lend their grandeur to the scenery of Loch
Earn. Upon the margin of the lake, and near the
base of the mountain, is situated the house of Ard-
voirlich, the residence of Robert Stewart, Esq., the
proprietor of the Ben, and the present representative
of an ancient family of the Stewarts to whom this
property has long belonged. The grounds are well-
wooded, the situation pleasant, and the walks lead
to a variety of picturesque scenes and waterfalls in
adjoining ravines. Near the middle of the lawn, be-
tween the house and the road, grows a thorn-tree,
160 years of age, which is interesting both from its
shape, its size, and its age. The branches spread
out thick and wide on every side, and nearly
horizontal ; so that forty men might easily dine be-
neath its shade. Nearly opposite to Ardvoirlich is
a lime-quarry, which has been a great source of
fertility and wealth to the valley of Strathearn.
The stones are conveyed by water to the east end
of the lake, whence they are carted away by the
purchasers sometimes to a distance of 20 miles.
This valuable quarry is on the property of Lord
Breadalbane. Nearly 2 miles from the house of
Ardvoirlich, and at the south-west end of the lake,
is the ancient castellated mansion of Edinample,
the property of Lord Breadalbane; near which are
the remains of an old chapel. This place is beauti-
fully wooded, and is situated in a narrow glen
through which the Ample finds its way to the lake.
The stream is here suddenly precipitated in two
spouts over a projecting cliff of rocks, into a profound
abyss where they unite, and rush again over a second
precipice, forming a beautiful cascade near the castle.
About 1J mile up the north side of the lake from
St. Fillans, the traveller comes to the opening of
Glentarkin, in which the great stone of Gleutarkin
stands, — a singular natural curiosity worthy of a
visit. There is no road up this glen, and it is very
difficult of access; but a traveller in the Highlands
must not pay attention to these circumstances, if he
would see all that is curious in such a rugged
country. Nearly 3 miles up the glen, in the centre
of a green sloping declivity between two rocky
mountains, stands this singular stone. The re-
markable thing about it is the beautifully balanced
position in which it stands, and in which it has
stood certainly since the remote period when it was
detached from one of the rocky hills in its neighbour-
hood, and fell to its present situation. At the base
where it rests on the ground, it measures 70 feet
in circumference, but at about ten feet from the
ground it spreads out equally on all sides, and its
circumference is here 110 feet. Under its project-
ing sides, 60 or 100 men might find shelter. The
solid contents of this enormous block above ground,
exceeds 25,000 feet.
In the middle of the lower part of the lake op-
posite the village of St. Fillans is the only island
which the lake contains. It is called Neish island.
In early times it is said to have been inhabited by a
family of the name of Neish, from whom it derives
its appellation. This family and their adherents had
long been at deadly feud with the M'Nabs, whose
residence was at the head of Loch Tay. Many
battles were fought between them with various suc-
cess ; but at length one was fought in Glenboult-
achan, about 2 miles north of Loch Earn foot, in
which the M'Nabs were victorious, and the unfortu-
nate Neishes cut off almost to a man. A small rem-
nant of them, however, still lived in the island of
Loch Earn, the head of which was an old man, a
relation of the original chief of the family. He sub-
sisted chiefly by plundering the people in the neigh-
bourhood. On one occasion — it is said to have been
in the reign of James V. — the chief of the M'Nabs,
who resided at Kennil house, near the head of Loch
Tay, had sent his servant to Crieff for provisions
for a Christmas merry-making. The servant was
waylaid on his return at Loch Earn foot, and robbed
of all his purchases; he went home therefore empty
handed, and told his tale to the laird. M'Nab had
twelve sons, all men of great strength, but one in
particular exceedingly athletic, who was ironically
termed, Join mion Mac' an Appa, or ' smooth John
M'Nab.' In the evening these 37oung men were
gloomily meditating some signal revenge on their
old enemies, when their father entered and said, —
Bhe'n oidch an oidch, n'am bu ghilleam na gillean,
— 'the night is the night, if the lads were but lads ! '
This hint was taken as it was meant, for each man
instantly started to his feet, and belted on his dirk,
his claymore, and his pistols. Led by their brother-
John, they set out, taking a fishing-boat on their
shoulders from Loch Tay, carrying it over the
mountains and glens till they reached Loch Earn,
where they launched it, and passed over to the
island. All was silent in the habitation of Neish ;
secure in their insular situation, and having the
boats at the island, all had gone to sleep without fear
of surprise. Smooth John dashed open with his foot
the door of Neish's house ; and the party rushing in,
they attacked their old enemies, putting every one
of them to the sword, and cutting off their heads,
with the exception of one man and a boy who con-
cealed themselves under a bed. Carrying off the
heads of their enemies and any plunder they could
secure, the youths presented themselves to their
father; and Smooth John, holding up the head of
the chieftain of the Neishes, said to his father, Na
biodh fromgh, oirbh ! ' Be in fear for nothing ! ' while
the piper struck up the pibroch of victory. The old
laird, after pleasing himself by contemplating the
bloody heads, declared, ' That the night was the
night, and the lads were the lads ! '
EARN (The), a river of the southern half of
Perthshire. It issues from the foot of Loch Earn,
at an elevation of 303 feet above the level of the sea,
and flows in a direction prevailingly eastward to a
confluence with the Tay, at a point 2J miles above
where the latter river begins to touch Eifeshire.
The course of the Earn abounds in sweeps and folds
and grand tortuosities, which contribute much to its
beauty, to its abrasive power, and to its aggregate
length, but which at the same time render it diffi-
cult to be measured; yet, estimated in a straight
line, from Loch Earn to the Tay, it extends only
about 27 miles. Yet, in consequence of drawing its
waters from all the mountain-feeders of the lake, it
has always a considerable volume and a lively
velocity, and is liable, in the time of rains, to swell
suddenly into terrible freshets, which burst upon
the low grounds, particularly in the lower parts of
its course, with devastating effect. It forms the
boundary of all the parishes which touch it with
the exception of Comrie, Forteviot, and Dunbarnie,
all which have portions on both sides. On its
north bank are Monivaird, Crieff, Trinity-Gask,
Aberdalgie, and Rhynd; and on the south are
Strowan, Muthill, Blackford, Auchterarder, Dun-
ning, Forgandenny, and Abernethy. The prin-
cipal tributary streams on the north are the Led-
nock at Comrie and the Turrit at Crieff; and the
principal on the south are the Ruchill at Comrie, the
Mudrany at Kinkell, the Ruthven in the parish of
Auchterarder, and the May at Forteviot. The Earn
is navigable for about 3 miles above its mouth, or
EARN.
501
EASDALE.
ns far as to tlio Bridge- of-Earn, for vessels of from
30 to 50 tons burden. Salmon, trout, pike, and
perch, are found in its waters. The salmon-fishings
are, however, of no great value.
The basin of the Earn, including that of the Loch
and its affluents, is one of the most picturesque in
Scotland. The styles of it vary from the wildly
highland at the head to the lusciously lowland at the
foot ; but are beautiful both in natural feature, and
in artificial adornment. The parts proper to the
Loch are described in the article Earx (Loch); and
the parts proper to the river will be described in the
article Strathearn. The richest parts of all, how-
ever, are those round the end of the lake and the
first reaches of the stream, where the highland glen
begins fitfully to soften into the lowland valley, es-
pecially at the place where the poet Hogg lays the
scene of his " Kilmeny," — where alone went the
maid in " the pride of her purity;" and those parts
are graphically touched as follows, with allusion to
that scene, by George Gilfillan : — " We have seen
this scene from the summit of Dunmore and the side
of Melville's monument, wdiich stands upon it, —
seen it at all hours, in all circumstances, and in all
seasons — in the clear morning, while the smoke of
a thousand cottages was seen rising through the
dewy air, and when the mountains seemed not
thoroughly awakened from their night's repose — in
the garish noon-day, when the feeling of mystery
was removed by the open clearness, but that of
majesty in form and outline remained — in the after-
noon, with its sunbeams streaking huge shadows,
and writing characters of fire upon all the hills — in
the golden evening, when the sun was going down
over Benmore in blood — in the dim evening, to us
dearer still, when a faint rich mist was steeping all
the landscape in religious hues — in the waste night,
while the moon was rising red in the north-east,
like a beacon, or a torch uplifted by some giant
hand — under the breezes and bashful green of
spring — in the laughing luxuriance of summer —
under the yellow shade of autumn — at the close of
autumn, when the woods were red and the stubble
sovereign of the fields — and again, when hill, val-
ley, and wood were spotted with snow, have seen it
in a hush so profound, that you might have ima-
gined nature listening for mysterious tidings, and
hardly dared to breathe — and in the cloudy and dark
day, while the thunder was shaking the column,
and the lightning painting the landscape. And
gazing at it, whether in glimmer or in gloom, have
we sometimes fancied that we saw that fearless
form ' gaeing' up through the plains of Dalwhinnie,
and the fairy plantations of Dunira,
' To pu' the cress-flower round the spring,
The scarlet hyp and the hyndberrie,
And the nut that hung frae the hazel tree ;
For Kilmeny was pure as pure could be.1
And when gloaming especially had poured her dim
divine lustre over the dark hills and white castle of
Abruchill, and allowed the last lingering ray of
sunshine to rest on the crest of Benvoirlich, and
hushed the streams of Glenlednock behind, and
drawn a dewy veil over the plain of Dalginross be-
fore, and softened the call of the Cauldron in the
glen below, and suffused over all the landscape of
earth and heaven, a sense unutterable of peace, and
introduced into the scene, as a last glorious touch,
the moon, to enhance the sense of solemnity, and to
deepen the feeling of repose, have we, reclining on
the hill, and seeing the stars coming out above the
Bilent column, thought of the ' eve in a sinless
world,' when,
*In ecstasy of sweet devotion;
O then the glen was all i*1 motion;'
and owned the power of the 'consecration,' and felt
the might of the ' poet's dream.' "
EARN (The), Renfrewshire. See Eaolesham.
EARNSIDE WOOD, an ancient forest, now ex-
tinct, which extended around the abbey of Lindores,
and along the shore of the frith of Tay a consider-
able way below the junction of the Earn and the
Tay. Sibbald says that it was anciently four miles
in length and three in breadth. The name of it,
taken in connexion with its situation, seems to coun-
tenance a tradition that the Earn once flowed to the
base of the hills in the north-west of Fifeshire, that
the Tay ran close by the foot of the heights which
now screen the north side of the Carse of Gowrie,
and that the two rivers did not unite till they reached
a point considerably to the east of their present
place of junction.
EAESA Y, or Ioesa, a stream, a glen, and a lake,
in the parish of Kilmorie, in the island of Arran.
The stream rises adjacent to the watershed of the
northern half of the island, and runs about 7 miles
south-westward to the north side of Mauchray bay.
The glen is the trough of the stream's basin. The
lake lies on the right side of the glen, about 2 miles
from the stream's mouth ; and it measures about a
mile in length, but is proportionally very narrow.
The lake contains trout and salmon.
EASDALE, or Eisdale, a Hebridean island, and
a post-office village, in the parish of Kilbrandon,
Argyleshire. The island lies J a mile east of Seil
and 12 miles south-west by south of Oban. It is
nearly circular, and does not comprise quite one
square mile of surface. It consists wholly of slate
of similar quality to that of the Welsh slate w-orks,
traversed in many places with basaltic veins, and
interstratified with thin layers of quartzose and
calcareous stones. This slate has been quarried for
nearly two centuries, and has all along been in
great request for its fine qualities. The quarries
have eventually eaten up a large proportion of the
island's hulk ; and one of them is even so far down
as 120 feet below the level of the sea. They have
for a number of years past been worked with the
appliances of steam-engines and railroads; and they
employ upwards of 200 men, and produce from four
millions to five millions of slates in the year. The
island is the property of the Marquis of Breadal-
bane, lying at the western verge of that nobleman's
immense estates. The strait between it and the
island of Seil bears the name of the Sound of Eas-
dale, and is part of the ordinary marine highway of
the western steamers between Glasgow and the
north. Population of the island in 1841, 531 ; in
1861, 449. Houses, 112.
The village of Easdale stands on both sides of the
sound of Easdale. The houses of the quarriers are
only one story high and slated, and all look neat
and comfortable. So many as about 400 sailing-
vessels, principally sloops, have in one year entered
the harbour. The visits from steam-vessels, also,
in their transit between Glasgow and the north, are
remarkably numerous. A brilliant reception was
given to Queen Victoria at this place, on occasion of
her passing north to Adverikie. Population about
449. See Seil.
EASSIE. See Essie.
EAST-BARNS. See Barns (East).
EAST-CALDER. See Calder (East).
EAST-COATS. See Coats.
EASTER ANSTRUTHER. See Anstruther
(Easter).
EASTER BUCKIE. See Buckie.
EASTER CLUNE. See Birse.
EASTER-DUDDINGSTON. See Duddingston.
EASTEE-GALLATOWN. See Gallatown.
EAST-FOKTUNE.
502
EASTWOOD.
EASTEKHOUSE. See Roseneath.
EASTER-LENZIE. See Cumbernauld.
EASTEE-EOSS. See Ross-shire.
EAST-FORTUNE, a station on the North Brit-
ish railway, 3 miles east of Drem, and 3 miles west
of Linton, Haddingtonshire.
EAST-GRANGE, a station on the Stirling and
Dunfermline railway, 4J miles east of Kincardine,
and 6 miles west of Dunfermline, serving for Cui-
rass and Torryburn.
EAST-HAVEN, a fishing-village in the parish of
Panhride, 5 miles south-west of Arbroath, Forfar-
shire. It has a station on the Dundee and Arhroath
railway. About a mile south west of it is the kin-
dred fishing-village of West-Haveu. From the end
of January till the beginning of June, lobsters are
caught in large quantities by the fishermen of these
villages, and sent up alive, in appropriately fitted
up vessels, to the London market. In winter cod
is taken in abundance, and salted for exportation.
But haddocks constitute the chief produce, and are
regularly sent to Dundee, Forfar, and other places
in the vicinity. Population of East-Haven, 145.
Houses, 38.
EAST-HOUSES, a village in the parish of New-
battle, Edinburghshire. It stands 1 mile east of the
hamlet of Newbattle, and is inhabited principally
by colliers. Population, 420. Houses, 91.
EAST-KILBRIDE. See Kilbride (East).
EAST-KILPATRICK. See Kilpatrick (East).
EAST-LINTON. See Linton (East).
EAST-MONKLAND. See Monkland (New).
EAST-MORRISTON. See Moeeiston.
EAST NEUK O' FIFE. See Crail.
EAST-PORT. See Kirkcaldy.
EAST-SALTON. See Salton.
EAST-THIRD. See Smalholm.
EAST- WATER. See Esk (North), Forfarshire.
EASTWOOD, or Pollock, a parish, containing
the post-towns of Pollockshaws and Thornliebank,
in the east side of Renfrewshire. It is bounded by
the parishes of Cathcart, Meams, Neilston, Paisley,
and Govan. Its greatest length from north to south
is about 4 miles, and its greatest breadth from east
to west is about 3 miles ; but the form of it is so ir-
regular, that its dimensions in different quarters
greatly vary. On the north side it approaches
within 2 miles of the city of Glasgow. The soil is
in some parts light, in others heavy ; but, excepting
a tract on the south side, which is tilly and barren,
it is in general fertile. The surface has a beautiful
appearance, being diversified with little hills rejoic-
ing on every side, with valleys, natural woods,
plantations, and winding streams. The whole par-
ish— except what is built upon, or occupied with
wood — consists of arable land. The river White
Cart traverses it from east to west. There are two
smaller streams, — Auldhouse-burn and Brock-burn.
The minerals wrought are sandstone, limestone,
ironstone, and coal. The Giffnock sandstone quar-
ries have a fine white rock, and employ nearly 100
men. The Eastwood pavement quarry is a fine for-
mation of foliated limestone, 50 feet deep, and em-
ploys about 60 men. The yearly value of limestone,
ironstone, and coal worked is about £5,000. Sir
John Maxwell, Bart, of Pollock, is the most exten-
sive landowner, and resides in the parish. About
350 acres are under wood. There are extensive
manufactures, or accessories to them, or both, in
various departments of the cotton trade, at Pollock-
shaws, Thornliebank, Auldfield, and Greenbank.
There is likewise extensive hand-loom weaving in
connexion with Glasgow and Paisley. The whole
district swarms with industry, as if it were imme-
diately suburban to Glasgow; and it is traversed
by the Glasgow and Barrhead railway. Assessed
property in 1860, £32,503 0s. Population in 1831,
6,854; in 1861, 11,314. Houses, 709.
The ancient name of this parish was Pollock,
which may be derived from the Gaelic pollag, " a
little pool." About the years 1163-5, the church of
Pollock, with its pertinents, was granted by Peter
of Pollock to the recently founded monastery of
Paisley ; and to it the church continued to belong
till the Reformation. In the 14th century, the church
and parish came to be called by the name of East-
wood, which is obviously derived from an extensive
wood which formerly existed here, and which was
only recently extirpated. The original estate of
Pollock, however, was within the parish of Mearns,
and now bears the name of Upper-Pollock. See
Mearns. The Pollock estate comprising the greater
part of Eastwood is usually called, in contra-
distinction, Nether-Pollock. Here has the family
of Maxwell resided since the beginning of the 1 3tli
century. In 1682, a baronetcy was conferred on
John Maxwell of Nether-Pollock, afterwards Lord-
justice-clerk. Mr. Ramsay says, " The house of
Nether-Pollock, a large and handsome structure of
four stories, is situate on the right bank of the White
Cart, amidst highly embellished pleasure-grounds
and beautiful plantations. The building was com-
pleted in 1740 by the grandfather of the present
proprietor, a few weeks before his death. The castle
— which had been previously occupied by the family
— was demolished about the same time: it stood on
the site of the offices attached to the present man-
sion. Upon an eminence about 300 yards to the
eastward of the house, there stood a still older castle,
— the remains of the drawbridge and fosse belong-
ing to which were in existence in Crawford's time
(1710). A remnant of the woods, which in ancient
times covered the ground in this quarter, was some
years ago found imbedded in the river at Nether-
Pollock. This was the trunk of a large oak, which,
having been with difficulty dislodged, was found to
measure 20 feet in circumference. It was set up in
the pleasure-ground, where it may still be seen
scooped out in such a manner as to form a summer-
house. On the bank of the river at this place there
stands a graceful group of wych-elms, of which an
etching and an account were given in Mr. Strutt's
' Sylva Britannica,' published in 1826, — a splendid
work, the portion of which that relates to Scotland
was dedicated to Mr. Maxwell, younger of Pollock.
The principal tree in this group is of extraordinary
health and vigour. It was lately measured for Mr.
Loudon's work on Trees, and was found to be 90
feet high, the diameter of the trunk being nearly 4
feet at 5 feet from the ground." — The lands of Darn-
ley in this parish belonged for ages to a branch of
the house of Stewart. See Darnlet. It is singular
that two ministers of Eastwood, Matthew Crawfurd,
who died in 1700, and Robert Wodrow, who died in
1734, have written Histories of the Church of Scot-
land. Wodrow's is universally known; Crawfurd's
remains in manuscript. Besides his worth as a
minister, Wodrow was a man of extraordinary in-
dustry; and to him we are indebted, in addition to
his great work, for much valuable information bear-
ing on Scottish history and biography. He was
among the first who attended to natural history in
this country. George Crawfurd, in his ' History of
Renfrewshire, ' says, — " South of Nether-Pollock,
stand the house and lands of Auldhouse, situate
upon a rivulet of the same denomination, where
there are found a great many fossil shells, collected
by the Rev. Mr. Robert Wodrow, minister of the
gospel at Eastwood, (my very worthy friend,) a
gentleman well seen in the curious natural products
EBRIE.
503
ECCLES.
of the country." As having been connected with
this parish, we may also mention Stevenson Mac-
Gill, D.D., professor of divinity in the university
of Glasgow, who died in 1840. lie was clerical
incumbent here from 1791 to 1797.
This parish is in the presbytery of Paisley, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Sir John
Maxwell, Bart. Stipend, £267 18s. 4d. ; glebe,
£13 Os. 4d. Unappropriated teinds, £78 18s. Cil.
Schoolmaster's salary, £70, with £80 fees. The
parish church, situated at the south-west end of
Pollockshaws, was built in 1781, and contains 750
sittings. There is a chapel of ease at Auldfield;
the presentation to which is in the communicants,
and the number of sittings in which is 780. There
are in Pollockshaws the East Free church, with
800 sittings; the West Free church, with 500; an
United Presbyterian church, with 800; an Original
Secession church, with 460; and a Roman Catholic
chapel, with 400. Eeceipts in 1865 of the East Free
church, £303 12s. 9id.; of the West Free church,
£259 18s. 5^d. There is at Thornliebank an United
Presbyterian congregation, who have at present a
new place of worship in progress of erection. There
are in the parish a burgh school and several adven-
ture schools; but in 1854, the number of children
from 5 to 13 years of age attending school was only
780, while the total number was 1,395. There are
in Pollocksliaws a religious tract society, a destitute
sick society, and several other beneficial institutions.
EAST-YELL. See Yell.
EATHACK (Loch). See Gadie (The).
EBRIE (The), a small tributary of the Ythan in
Aberdeenshire, giving the name Inverebrie to a
detached pendicle of the parish of Methlick, situated
at its mouth, contiguous to Tarves.
EBUDyE. See Hebrides.
ECCLEFECHAN, a post-office village, in the
parish of Hoddam, Annandale, Dumfries-shire. It
stands contiguous to the Caledonian railway, and
on the great road from Glasgow to London, 6 miles
south-east by south of Lockerby, 16 east by south
ot Dumfries, and 80 by railway south of Edinburgh.
The Mein water flows near it ; Hoddam castle figures
picturesquely at no great distance ; and several
vantage-grounds in the vicinity command magnifi-
cent views of the basin and screens of the Solway
frith. The village has a manufacture of ginghams.
A general monthly market is held in it ; and also a
weekly market, during -winter, for the sale of pork.
The Caledonian railway has a station here, and at-
tains in the vicinity its summit-level between
Beattock and Carlisle. Here are a Free church
and an United Presbyterian church. Population,
SS4.
ECCLES, a prefix in names, signifying " a
church. " See Eagles.
ECCLES, a parish, containing the hamlet of
Eccles, and the post-office villages of Birgham and
Leitholm, on the southern border of Berwickshire.
It is bounded on the north by Fogo; on the east by
Swinton and Coldstream ; on the south by the
Tweed, which divides it from England and Rox-
burghshire; on the south-west by Roxburghshire
and Hume ; and on the west by Hume and Greenlaw.
It has a somewhat pentagonal form, but with a
ragged, and, in three places, an indented outline.
From an angle above East Printonian on the north,
to a bend in the Tweed opposite Loughton house on
the south, it measures very nearly 6 miles ; and
from the extremity of a loehlet on the eastern
boundary to an angle bej'ond Kennetsideheads on
the west, it measures 5 J miles ; yet in superficial
area it does not contain more than 17i square miles.
The surface, excepting some unimportant ridges
which are just sufficient to relieve the scene from
monotony, is a continued plain ; and, over both ris-
ing-ground and level, is all so richly cultivated,
fenced, and sheltered with wood, that scarcely an
acre is waste or unattractive. The prevailing soil
is clay mixed with sand, very fertile, and periodi-
cally laden with luxuriant crops. Towards the
south the soil inclines to gravel; and, on several
farms, it is a very rich loam. Agricultural improve
ment was early introduced to the parish and vigor-
ously prosecuted; and, aided by the best natural
and local appliances, has earned an abundant com-
pensation. No parish in Scotland, probably, is
more distinguished for exuberant crops of wheat,
barley, oats, and other produce. So far back as 60
years ago, the farmers had become opulent, and
almost luxurious, living in a style very different
from that of their fathers. The Tweed, over a dis-
tance of 3 miles, rolls along the boundary; and,
though not wearing here any of its dresses of ro-
mance and magnincence, it has not ceased to be
pleasing and beautiful. The Leet for 2 miles forms
the boundary-line on the east, and is joined in its
progress by a brook of 8 miles course, which comes
down upon Eccles from the west, forms for a while
its boundaiy with Greenlaw, and then runs across
its whole breadth from west to east. The climate,
owing to the lowness and flatness of the situation,
is not the most salubrious; and lays the population
open to epidemics and diseases of debility. The
rocks of the parish belong all to the new red sand-
stone formation. The principal landowners are
the Marquis of Tweeddale, the Earl of Home, Sir
John Marjoribanks, Bart., of Lees, and Sir Hugh
Hume Campbell, Bart., of Purves-Hall. The real
rental rose from £11,000 in 1793 to £20,000 in 1822.
Assessed property in 1864, £22,846 4s. 2d. The
hamlet of Eccles stands in the southern part of the
parish, 5 miles north-east of Kelso, and about the
same distance west by north of Coldstream. At
Deadriggs, about a mile north-west of it, is a sand-
stone cross or monument, 14 feet high, with some
curious sculpturings, and apparently of high an-
tiquity, but of unascertained origin or object. Near
Leet water is Leitholm peel, the ruin of an ancient
stronghold of the border-reavers. Karnes, in this
parish, was the birth-place of the distinguished
judge and philosopher, Henry Home, and gave him
the judicial title, by which he is better known, of
Lord Kames. Eccles is traversed along the banks
of the Tweed by the great road between Carlisle and
Berwick by way of Coldstream ; is intersected north-
eastward, nearly through its middle, by the north
road from Kelso to Berwick; and, besides being sup-
plied with various cross-roads, is traversed also from
east to west by a line which cuts it into two nearly
equal parts. Population in 1831, 1,885; in 1861,
1,861. Houses, 379.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dunse, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £245 19s. 10d.; glebe, 20 acres, with a
manse. Unappropriated teinds, £819 8s. 4d. School-
master's salary, £55, with £18 school-fees. The
parish-church, situated at the village of Eccles, was
built in 1774, and has a neat spire and pleasing ap-
pearance. Sittings, 1,000. The Free church has
an attendance of 120, and raised in 1854 the sum of
£96 10s. 8Jd. The United Presbyterian church at
Leitholm has an attendance of 190. There are
four private schools. The church of Eccles was
dedicated originally to St. Cuthbert, and afterwards
to St. Andrew; and it was annexed, in 1156, by the
Earl of Dunbar, to a convent which he founded in
the parish, of Cistercian nuns. There were an-
cientby 3 chapels, — one at Brigham, one at Leitholm,
ECCLESMACHAN.
504
ECK.
and one at the hamlet of Mersington ; and they also
were annexed to the convent, and, along with the
parish-church, continued to be connected with it till
the Reformation. The nunnery stood in the neigh-
bourhood of the mansion of Eccles, and appears to
have occupied an area of six acres. The only re-
mains o'f it are part of a wall and 2 vaulted cells.
The convent, like other religious houses on the
border, did homage to Edward III., after his capture
of Berwick. In 1523, it gave a few hours lodging
to the Duke of Albany, when retreating from Wark
castle; in 1545, it was destroyed in the course of
the devastating excursion of the Earl of Hertford;
and in 1569, it was formally, as to its property,
erected by Queen Mary into a temporal lordship for
George Hume, who became Earl of Dunbar.
ECCLESCKAIG. See St. Cyeus.
EOCLESFECHAN. See Ecclefeohan.
ECCLESIAMAGIRDLE. See Dbon.
ECCLESMACHAN, a parish, containing the
hamlets of Ecclesmachan, Threemiletown, and
Waterston, in Linlithgowshire. It consists of two
detached and nearly equal parts, the one near the
centre of the county, and the other somewhat to the
north-east. The south-western part is bounded on
the north by Linlithgow, on the east by Uphall, on
the south by Uphall and Livingston, and on the
south-west and west by Bathgate; and lies within
£ a mile of the post-office of Uphall, and railway
station of Houston. It is of an oblong figure; and
in its greatest length measures 2f miles, and in its
greatest breadth 1J. The north-eastern part, lying
at the nearest point a mile apart from the other, is
bounded on the north by Abercom and the Auld-
cathie portion of Dalmeny, on the east by Kirk-
liston, on the south by Uphall, and on the west by
Linlithgow; and it reaches within a mile of the
post-office and railway station of Winchhurgh. It is
of irregular outline, and measures about If mile in
length, and, over half that length, 1J in breadth,
but over the other half only §. Except the south-
western section of the south-western part, where
the low hills of Bathgate begin to rise, the whole
parish is a flat com country, producing in abun-
dance all sorts of grain raised in West Lothian.
Coal seems to stretch athwart all its extent. Ex-
cellent freestone also abounds. Near the manse is a
mineral spring, called the Bullion-well, having the
same properties as the mineral springs of Moffat.
There are four principal landowners. The real
rental is nearly £3,000. The yearly value of raw
produce was estimated in 1843 at £7,960. Assessed
property in 1843, £2,718 9s. 6d. The village of
Ecclesmachan stands on the southern verge of the
north-eastern section of the parish, 2£ miles west-
south-west of Winchburgh. Population of the vil-
lage, 97. Houses, 19. Population of the parish in
1831, 299; in 1861, 309. Houses, 56.
This parish, formerly a rectory, is in the presby-
tery of Linlithgow, and synod of Lothian and
Tweeddale. Patron, the Earl of Hopeton. Stipend,
£256 lis. 8d.; glebe, £15. Unappropriated teinds,
£140 lis. Id. Schoolmaster's salary, is £52 10s.,
with about £35 school-fees. The parish church
was a very ancient structure, but was in great part
rebuilt in the beginning of last century, and repaired
in 1822. Sittings, 153.
ECHT, a parish in the Kincardine O'Neil district
of Aberdeenshire. It contains a post-office station
of its own name, and lies from 10 to 14 miles west
of Aberdeen. It is bounded on the north by the
parishes of Cluny and Skene; on the east by
Skene and Peterculter ; on the south by Drum-
oak parish and part of Kincardineshire; and on
the west by the parish of Midmar. Its form
is nearly square, measuring 4J miles from east
to west and from north to south. Though this
is a hilly district, few of the hills are of great
height, and many of them are under tillage
to the very summit. The hill of Fare, which has
an elevation of 1,794 feet above sea-level, stands
partly within the south-western boundary. See
Faee. The total extent of area under cultivation
is about 8,000 acres; the extent never cultivated,
5,700 acres; the extent under wood, from 2,000 to
2,500 acres. The arable soil is partly clay and
partly light sand, and in general is highly im-
proved. The How of the Edit is a valley in the
centre of the parish, where the air is very mild and
salubrious. The Loch of Skene is on the north-
eastern boundary; and various burns effect the gen-
eral drainage southward to the Peterculter burn,
which falls into the Dee. There are four principal
landowners. The valued rental is £2,364 15s. Scots.
The yearly value of raw produce was estimated in
1842 at £8,362 9s. Assessed property in 1843,
£5,690. Echt-house, the seat of Lord Lindsay, the
most extensive heritor, is an elegant modern man-
sion, surrounded with extensive and thriving planta-
tions. On the top of the Barmekin, one of the highest
hills, is an ancient circular fortification concerning
which tradition is silent. Here are also several
cairns and druidical edifices. The road from Aber-
deen to Alford goes across the northern border of
the parish, and that from Aberdeen to Tarland
through its centre. Fairs are held on the estate of
Echt on the Monday in July before St. Sairs, on the
Tuesday in October before Kinkell, and on the first
Tuesday of each of the other ten months in the
year. Population in 1831, 1,030; in 1861, 1,287.
Houses, 241.
This parish is in the synod of Aberdeen, and
presbytery of Kincardine O'Neil. Patron, the Earl
of Fife. Stipend, £182 16s. 8d.; glebe, £10. School-
master's salary, under the recent act, £45, and
other emoluments. The parish church was built in
1804, and contains 600 sittings. There is a Free
church: attendance, 200; receipts in 1865, £77 15s.
lOd. There are a female school and two other en-
dowed schools.
ECK (Locn), a fresh-water lake m the parishes
of Strachur and Dunoon, Cowal, Argyleshire. It
stands nearly northward and southward, with a
length of about 7 miles, and a pretty uniform breadth
of about $ a mile. Its depth varies from shallow-
ness to about 60 fathoms. The Cur enters its head,
and the Eachaig issues from its foot. See Cue,
Eachaig, and Dunoon. To the scenery around
Loch-Eck the epithet of beautiful may, with much
propriety, be applied. The mountains are not so
lofty as in some other districts of the country ; but all
are finely formed, and present a graceful and varied
outline. Many of them are green to the top, and
slope gently down towards the lake, while others
are more precipitous and rocky; but throughout
their aspect is singularly pleasant and interesting.
There are no extensive woods near this lake; but
its shores, particularly on the east side, are delight-
fully fringed with trees and copse. The road from
Ardintenny to Strachur is carried for some miles
along that side, and presents to the traveller a most
agreeable succession of landscapes.
Near the head of Loch-Eck is a little round hill
called Tom-a-Chorachasich, or ' the hill of Chorach-
asich.' The tradition with regard to this mount is,
that a prince of Norway, or Denmark, having been
defeated by the natives, was pursued, overtaken,
and killed at this place, where his grave is pointed
out. He is said, of course, to have been of gigantic
stature, and is still called in Gaelic, An Corrach-
ECKFORD.
505
EDAY.
nsach mlior, mac Kigh Lochlan, ' the great Corcach-
asach, son to the King of Denmark.' Another tra-
dition says that a battle was fought with the Nor-
wegians, in a field near the head of Glen-Finnart,
and within a short distance of Loch-Eck, where
the Norwegians were defeated with great slaughter.
The field is still called ' the Field of Shells,' from
the number of drinking-shells belonging to the
slaughtered Norwegians said to have been found on
it after the battle. This tradition, in all probabil-
ity, alludes to an incursion made up Glen-Finnart
by some Norwegians, from that part of Haco's fleet
which sailed up Loch-Long at the time he invaded
Scotland in 1262; an invasion that terminated
with the battle of Largs.
ECKFORD, a parish, containing the villages of
Eckford, Eckfordmoss, Cessford, and Caverton, in
the lower part of Teviotdale, Roxburghshire. It is
of nearly triangular form, having its angles to the
north, south, and west; and is bounded on the east
by Sprouston, Linton, Morebattle, and Hounam;
on the south-west by Jedburgh and Crailiug; and
on the north-west by Roxburgh and Kelso. From
its southern to its northern angle it measures 6J
miles, and from its western angle to Hutt 4^. A
small part of it lies on the west" of the Teviot; the
main body is intersected westward, and divided into
nearly equal parts, by the Kail; and a rill, which
rises in Sprouston parish, forms, till flowing into
the Kail, its eastern boundary-line. The parish has
throughout an undulating surface, and rises gradu-
ally toward the south. Its heights are, in general,
only knolls ; but, in the instances of Woodenkill in
the south, and Cavertonhill in the centre, are notice-
able eminences. Cavertonhill commands a far and
minute view of the picturesque valley of the Teviot,
and the interesting vale of the Kail, with the fine,
though sombre, background of the Border range of
mountains. 'Within the parish itself the Kail
ploughs its impetuous way between bold, romantic,
and well-wooded banks. Plantation is so abundant
as to afford the district ample shelter, and add
abundantly to its decoration. The soil, on the low
grounds in the west, is a light loam, and on the
higher grounds toward the south, is clayey; but, in
different parts of the parish, and even on the same
farm, is various, though, in general, richly pro-
ductive. About 7,740 acres are under cultivation,
about 1,140 uncultivated, and about 814 under
wood. The Duke of Roxburghe and the Duke of
Buccleuch are the principal landowners; but there
are several others. The real rental rose from .£3,700
in 1791 to £8,676 in 1836. The yearly value of raw
produce was estimated in 1836 at £26,891 12s. As-
sessed property in 1864, £10,751 4s. lid. There are
in the parish an agricultural implement manufac-
tory, a saw-mill, and three corn-mills. The parish
is traversed a short way, from north to south, by
the great road from Berwick to Carlisle ; and, in the
same or other directions, by 7 subsidiary or cross-
roads. There are two stone bridges over the Kail,
and a beautiful suspension-bridge, 16 feet broad and
180 long, over the Teviot. The village of Eckford
stands on the right bank of the Teviot, on the
principal intersecting road, 6 miles south by west
. of Kelso, which is the parish's post-town. Pop-
ulation of the village, 81. Houses, 18. Population
of the parish in 1831, 1,148; in 1861, 957.
Houses, 190.
Eckford parish, situated as it is within a few
miles of the Border, was laid waste, in former times,
by many feuds and forays ; and it had several towers
or strongholds, particularly those of Eckford, Ormis-
ton, Woodenhill, the Moss, and Cessford. The last,
even from the appearance of its ruins, may be con-
jectured to have been a place of considerable impor-
tance; and, in a letter to Henry VIII., it was repre-
sented by the Earl of Surrey, after he had vainly
attempted to carry it by storm, and had obtained
possession of it by capitulation, as being the strong
est fastness in Scotland except Fast castle and Dun-
bar castle. Cessford castle was the original patri-
monial property of the Dukes of Roxburghe. Here,
according to Wodrow, Henry Hall of Haughhead
and other Covenanters were incarcerated in 1666.
See Cessford. On the farm of Hospital-land a tu-
mulus was opened, and there were found two earthen
pots containing fragments and dust of human bones.
Anciently, to the east of the village of Caverton,
stood a chapel, the cemetery of which still exists.
In 1554, the parish-church of the period was burnt
by the English.
This parish is in the presbytery of Jedburgh, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £219 14s. 7d., with 42 lis. of cheese as
vicarage teinds; glebe, £12 5s. Unappropriated '
teinds, £1,254 0s. lOd. The ancient church be-
longed to the abbey of Jedburgh. The present
church was built in 1662, and has been frequently
repaired. Sittings, about 300. There are two paro
chial schools, at respectively Eckford and Caverton-
mill. Salary of the Eckford master now fixed at
£50, with fees ; of the Caverton-mill master, undei
the recent act £30, and some other emoluments.
There are two private schools and a public library.
At Marlefield, in this parish, was bom Sir William
Bennet, the intimate patronial friend of the poets
Ramsay and Thomson ; and in the vicinity of
Marlefield- house is a spot which some persons con-
tend to be the scene of the Gentle Shepherd. In
opposition to this fancy, however, see the article
Habbie's How.
ECKFORDMOSS, a village in the parish of Eck-
ford, Roxburghshire. Population, 48. Houses, 11.
EDAY, a parish near the middle of the North
Isles of Orkney. It comprises the inhabited islands
of Pharay and Eday, and five uninhabited islets.
Pharay lies to the west of the northern half of Eday,
and will be described in its own alphabetical place.
The inhabited islets are the Holm of Pharay and
the Red Holm, lying to the north of Pharay ; the
Calf of Eday, lying to the north-east of Eday ; and
the Little Green Holm and the Muckle Green Holm,
lying to the south-west of Eday. All these islets
are pastoral. Eday extends north and south, with
a length of 7J miles, and an extreme breadth of 3
miles. Its north end is 1J mile west of Sanday,
and 2 J miles east of "Westray ; its south end is 2 J
miles west of Stronsay, and 5 miles east of Rousay;
and its southern extremity is 3J miles north by east
of Papinshay, and 13J north-north-east of Kirkwall.
It consists chiefly of hills of moderate height, and
contains much moss, from part of which the neigh-
bouring islands are supplied with fuel ; yet it is ex-
tensively pastoral, and has also a good proportion
of excellent arable land. The yearly value of its
produce, together with that of Pharay and the
Holms, was estimated in 1841 at £5,933 17s. 7d. •
hut this includes live stock, fish, peats, and kelp.
The island, near its middle, is indented by the sea
on both sides, so as to leave only a narrow isthmus
connecting the two ends. It possesses two good
harbours or roadsteads, each sheltered by an islet,
where vessels of any burden may ride in safety.
One of these, called Fier's-Ness, lies on the west
side, in the central indentation of the coast, shel-
tered by Pharay ; and the other, called Calf Sound,
lies on the north-east, about If mile in length and
comparatively narrow, sheltered from end to end by
the Calf of Eday, which is much the largest of the
EDDERACHILLIS.
506
EDDERACHILLIS.
Holms, and distinguished for its fine turf and sheep
pasture. Eday belonged in the 17th century to
Lord Kinclaven, who built a house here, and erected
salt-pans which were worked with equal spirit and
success during the lifetime of their patron. This
nobleman — who was brother of Patrick Stewart,
Earl of Orkney — had been by Charles I. created
Earl of Carrick, which name he conferred on a vil-
lage near the harbour of Calf sound, and which was
through his influence erected into a burgh-of-harony.
But, as he died without lawful issue, the title be-
came extinct, the house crumbled down, and the
village sunk into obscurity. In 1725, the pirate
Gow, trusting to the defenceless state of the coun-
try, entered this harbour; but one of the proprie-
tors, then residing in the house of Carrick, supported
by his equally intrepid neighbours, seized the pirate,
his crew, and his ship, and thus promptly freed the
world of one who had been for a long time a pest to
society. The Eed-head, which forms one of the
sides of the harbour, contains an excellent freestone
quarry, which, it has been supposed, notwithstand-
ing the distance, furnished stones for the cathedral
of St. Magnus in Kirkwall. Here is a standing
stone, of about 16 feet in height, called the Great
stone of Seter, similar to those which are observed
in the other islands. Here are also the remains of
several Picts' houses ; and a number of tumuli.
Population of the island of Eday in 1861, 897.
Houses, 166. Population of the parish of Eday in
1831, 756; in 1861,979. Houses, 175.
This parish is in the presbytery of North Isles,
and synod of Orkney. But it is united to Stronsay,
and Arms one charge with that parish. See Stron-
say. There is a parish church in Eday, which was
built in 1816, and is served by a missionary of the
Royal Bounty. Salary of the missionary, £50, with
a manse. There are also in Eday an United Pres-
byterian church, built in 1831, and containing 308
sittings, and a Baptist meeting-house. There are
an Assembly's school, and one or two private
schools.
EDDERACHILLIS, a parish, containing the
post-office village of Scourie, on the west coast of
Sutherlandshire. It is bounded by the Atlantic
ocean, and by the parishes of Durness, Farr, Lairg,
Creech, and Assynt. Its length, in the direction of
south-south-east, is 27 miles ; its length in a straight
line southward on the coast is 18 miles; its ex-
treme breadth westward is 17 miles; but its land
area, in consequence of great contractions of its
breadth, and great intrusions of sea-lochs and fresh
water lakes, is only about 175 square miles. Nu-
merous isles and islets on the coast and in the sea-
lochs belong to it; much the most noticeable of
which is Handa, situated within about a mile of the
central part of its seaboard. See Handa. The
great sea-loch Kyle-Skou projects far south-east-
ward along the southern boundary; and the smaller
though still considerable sea-lochs, Laxford and
Inchard, project westward into the interior, at 3
miles distance from each other, and the former 9^
miles north of Kyle-Skou, the latter 5J miles south
of the northern boundary. These sea-lochs divide
the mainland of the parish, or at least the inhabitable
parts of it, into three sections, — Edderachillis proper,
or Scourie, between Kyle-Skou and Loch Laxford,
Ceathramh-garbh or ' the rough territory,' between
Loch Laxford and Loch Inchard, and Ashir or ' the
cultivable country,' between Loch Inchard and the
extreme north.
Edderachillis is justly reputed the wildest and
most rugged parish in Scotland. The inland parts
of it are a Highland chaos, one of the grandest Scot-
tish haunts of the red-deer and the eagle, presenting
a vast group of ragged mountains, their summits
enveloped in clouds, and divided from one another
by deep and narrow glens, whose declivities are so
ragged and steep as to be dangerous to travellers
unfurnished with guides. The seaboard parts, along
a public road from Kyle-Skou to the vicinity ot
Loch Laxford, are graphically described as follows
by the Messrs. Anderson, in their Guide to the High-
lands:— " After leaving the ferry, the road proceeds
with a long but not very steep ascent, until, round-
ing the shoulder of the hill, it declines gently along
the high side of a deep valley. For a considerable
distance the road winds up and down in many a tor-
tuous flexure through narrow defiles, the view be-
ing limited by the surrounding masses of rock and
hill ; but several small tarns and lochs occasionally
of some size, each completely girdled round with
rocky eminences, and frequently adorned with beau-
tiful aquatic plants, appear at almost every bend of
the road. The number of these lakes here, as in
Assynt, especially in the north-west division, is in-
credible ; and, being distinguished either by dark,
still water, indicative of great depth, at the foot of
ragged rocks, or by green sedgy banks and shallow
margins, beautifully ornamented with the stately
bulrush and the elegant flowers and handsome
leaves of the white water lily, are very pleasing
features amid the singular scenery of the district.
The road is generally pretty much elevated; but
here and there it descends to the coast. From the
top of the mountains, many of which attain an ele-
vation of 3,000 feet, the country, intersected by
arms of the sea, and chequered with lakes, rivers,
and ravines, presents a peculiar aspect. Viewed
from some miles' distance at sea, the landboard is
considered to be a close resemblance to the Norwe-
gian coast. A few miles further on, the road passes
through a small wild glen, along a noisy stream
that foams down its rocky bed into the sea at the
safe harbour of Loch Colva. The projecting and
angular ledges of rock that form the south side of
this glen are very striking, and form a marked and
beautiful variety in the scenery. Beyond this
glen, the scenery retains a similar character until
we reach the sheltered bay of Badcaul; improved,
however, at a few points, by occasional vistas of
the ocean. Badcaul, where the manse and parish
church are situated, and a large establishment
for the preserving of the salmon caught all along
the coast, is distant 9 miles from the ferry at Kyle-
Strome. Here a great many small islands at-
tract attention from their number and grouping.
About three miles further on, through the same de-
scription of country, we reach the inn and town-
ship of Scourie, surrounded on all sides, except the
west, by an amphitheatre of rugged ledges of rock,
backed by the pyramidal summit of Stack, and hav-
ing in front a bay, wide at the opening, but reced-
ing at its upper extremity behind sheltering rocks.
This place is comparatively verdant and arable,
though the arable ground is of small extent; but
then in Edderachillis there is no such thing as
ground capable of cultivation, except on the most
confined scale, and it derives additional attractions
from the contrast it presents to the sterile and rocky
surface that encompasses it. Nearly opposite to
Scourie, and at no great distance, is the large but
of late uninhabited island of Handa. This island
forms the most wonderful object along this coast,
from its towering and majestic cliff's, and the im-
mense number of wild sea-fowl that inhabit every
crevice of its rocks. Nor is it the cliff scenery alone
which distinguishes Handa. It stands so high, and
far enough from the land, to command a most com-
prehensive view of the coast from Rustoir past Loch
EDDERACHILLIS.
507
EDDEIITON.
Inchard, ami of the huge mountain masses which,
throughout this wide circuit, uproar their gigantic
and varied forms, each apart from the other, above
the encircling zone of rocky hills, which form, as it
were, a common hase to the whole. Such a mag-
nificent mountain panorama can hardly be surpassed ;
for the mountains here are all giants. These, it
may be remarked, generally range towards the east
and west ; so that, in progressing from north to
south, they assume an infinite variety of appear-
ance. The sea to landward, all around, is diversi-
fied by long projecting rugged headlands, and lines
of rocky islands, whilo to the west extends the
boundless surface of the Atlantic, one glorious ex-
panse of cerulean line, patched with shifting
masses of brown, produced simply by the shade of
the varying sky. The most striking-looking moun-
tain from this quarter is Stack, the terminal aspect
of whieh is that of an enormous pyramid, rising
to a perfect point. Suilvein appears under quite a
new character, the two summits being far removed,
and it shows itself to be in reality a long moun-
tain, instead of the terminal sugar-loaf figure
from which it is so well known," The parts
of tho seaboard of the parish, north of Seourie, as
seen from the public road, are similar to those to the
south, — except that the tract between Loch Lax-
ford and Loch Inchard eminently vindicates its
name of ' the rough territory,' and that the loch
scenery in the gorges is largely an intermixture of
salt and fresh. The profile views of the country,
also, as seen from skiff or ship in almost any place
in the offing, just as much as from Handa, arc bril-
liantly savage or magnificently grand,
" Stranger, if e'er thine ardent steps have traced
The northern realms of ancient Caledon,
Where the proud queen of wilderness hath placed,
By lake and cataract, her lonely throne,
Sublime and stern delight thy soul hath known,
Gazing on pathless glen and mountain high,
Listing where from the cliffs the torrents thrown,
Mingle their echoes with the eagle's cry.
And with the sounding lake, and with the roaming sky,
'Tis known amid the pathless wastes of Reay."
A vast proportion of the parish of Edderaohillis
is included in the Duke of Sutherland's deer forest;
another vast proportion is disposed in sheep-walks ;
and only a remarkably small aggregate is available
for cultivation. Many of the inhabitants combine
the pursuits of farming and fishing. The Duke of
Sutherland is the sole landowner, The real rental
is about £2,500. The yearly value of all kinds of
raw produce is about £23,000, Assessed property
in I860, £3,760 0s. Od. The whole district was
anciently a part of the barony of Skelho, and after-
wards a part of the Eeay country. About the end
of the 12th century, or beginning of the 13th, it
was conveyed from an ancestor of the Duke of Suth-
erland to Ins brother Richard Moray of Culbyn ;
about the year 1440, it was carried by an heiress,
Egidia Moray, into the family of Kinnaird of Kin-
uaird; in 1515, it was disponed by Andrew Kin-
naird to John Mackay, son of Mackay of Strath-
naver, the superiority remaining with the Earls of
Sutherland ; and in 1829, it was repurchased by the
Sutherland family, who forthwith altered its eco-
nomy, and greatly improved its dwellings, roads,
and communications. The inhabitants of it, in re-
mote times, were few in number, and acknowledged
no landlord or superior. The first who are said to
have held it in property were of the clan Macleod,
akin to the Macleods of Lewis ; and these continued
to retain possession till the middle of the 16th cen-
tury, when the Mackays from Strathnaver, by
means of a rude, sudden, sanguinary inroad, dis-
placed them, and sat down as proprietors under the
title of Mackays of Seourie. A descendant of theso
Mackays was the famous General Mackay, com-
mander-in-chief of the forces in Scotland under
William III. Population of the parish in 1831,
1,965; in 18G1, 1,641. Houses, 279.
This parish is in the presbytery of Tongue, and
synod of Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend, £158 6s. 8d. ; glebe, £20. School-
master's salary, is now £50, witli only trivial fees.
The parish church is in good repair, and contains 275
sittings. The districts north of Loch Laxford were
erected, in February 1846, into the quoad sacra
parish of Kinloch-Bervie. The church" is situated
near the mouth of Loch Inchard, about 18 miles from
Badcaul. It was a government erection, in 1829,
and contains 350 sittings. Stipend, £120 ; glebe,
£2. There are two Free churches, respectively in Ed-
derachillis proper and in Kinloch-Bervie. Attend-
ance at the former, 300, — at the latter, 470 ; sum
raised in 1865 at the former, £42 17s. 3jd.,— at the
latter, £45 16s. S\d. There are a Society school in
Ashir, several private schools in various parts, and
a reading club in Seourie. The parish of Eddera-
ohillis was formerly a part of Durness : which sec.
The name Edderachillis signifies " between the
kyles," and alludes to the situation of the Seourie
district, or Edderachillis proper, between Kyle-
Skou and Loch Laxford.
EDDEETON, or Edderdoun, a parish on the
northern border of the eastern division of Ross-
shire. It is bounded on the north by the Domoch
frith ; and on other sides by the parishes of Tain,
Logie-Easter, Kilmuir-Easter, Rosskeen, and Kin-
cardine. Its length is 10 miles, and its breadth 8.
Its post-town is Tain, 5 miles east-south- oast of the
manse. The surface consists principally of three
ledges, environed by four hills. The lowest ledge
extends from end to end of the parish along the
shore, and looks to have been at a remote period
under the sea, and is partly sandy and partly covered
with rich alluvium. The second ledge is shallow
and gravelly, partly under cultivation, and partly
in a state of utter waste, yet easily capable of re-
munerating reclamation. The third ledge contains
some good soil, in tillage, but lies so high as to
suffer the severe evils of late springs and fitful au-
tumns. Two of the environing hills are wholly
within the parish, and the other two are on its
boundaries. They vary in altitude from 600 to
1,300 feet, and all command delightful prospects.
Four burns drain the parish to the frith. About
300 acres are under wood. The landowners are
C. W. A. Ross, Bart, of Balnagowu, A. Matheson
of Ardross, and Macleod of Cadboll, The real ren-
tal is about £2,370. Assessed property, in 18G0,
£2,988 0s, Od. The family of Ross reside on their
estate of Balnagown, and have been in possession
of it since about the beginning of the 13th century.
The original abbey of Peam, previous to its remo-
val to the place 12 miles to the south, which is now
named after it, stood at the west end of Edderton
parish. Teutonic round towers, of the kind called
dunes, were also numerous here, but have all been
either much dilapidated or entirely destroyed. A
number of rude stones and cairns in the plain of
Carriblair, are said to point out the spot where a
prince of Denmark and his followers lie interred.
The parish is traversed by the roads from Bonar-
Bridge to Tain and to Dingwall. There is a good
harbour at Ardmore. See Ardmore. There is a
distillery at Balblair. Population in 1831, 1,023;
in 1861, 836. Houses, 191.
This parish is in the presbytery of Tain, and
synod of Ross. Patron, the Marchioness of Stafford.
Stipend, £203 14s. 6d. ; glebe, £14. Sehoolmas-
EDDLESTONE.
508
EDENKILLIE.
ter's salary, is now £35. The parish church was
built in 1842, and contains about 700 sittings. The
old parish church, built in 1743, and recently re-
modelled, is now a Free church. Attendance at ii,
500; receipts in 1865, £55 10s. 6d. There is a Frez
church school. Edderdoun is the correct name of
the parish, having been corrupted into Edderton;
and it signifies ' between the hills,' alluding to the
situation of the original church.
EDDLESTONE, a parish, containing a post-office
village of its own name, in the north of Peebles-
shire. It is bounded by Edinburghshire, and by
the parishes of Innerleithen, Peebles, Lyne, and
Newlands. It is of an oblong form, stretching from
north to south ; but has a considerable projection
on the south-west. Its extreme measurement from
the confluence of Harehope bum and Meldon burn
on the south, to Fernyhole on the north, is 10 miles ;
and from the confluence of two brooks at the base of
Courhope hill on the west, to Bumhead on the east,
is 5J miles. Eddlestone water intersects it from
north to south, and divides it into nearly equal
parts. This stream rises in the extreme north of
the parish, pursues a course due south, receives on
its way 8 or 10 tributary rills from the adjacent
heights ; and after leaving the parish flows direct
toward the core of Peebles- shire, and there, at the
burgh, the capital of the county, falls into the Tweed.
At Cowey's linn, it has a fall of 35 feet. Its
entire course, which is remarkably straight, does
not exceed between 1 1 and 12 miles. In the east-
ern division of the parish, about a mile from the
boundary, is Loch Eddlestone, nearly of a circular
form, 2 miles ' in circumference, and abounding in
pike, eels, and perch. Issuing from this lake is the
South Esk, which pursues a course directly the re-
verse of that of Eddlestone water, flowing 3 miles
due northward through the parish, and leaving it
within about a mile of the Eddlestone's primary
sources. The entire surface of the parish may be
described as an agglomeration of smooth hills, ver-
dant to their summits, tame in their general ap-
pearance, but at intervals surprising the tourist by
sudden disclosures of picturesque varieties, and ro-
mantic cleughs and dells. Along the eastern boun-
dary, the summits are towering and alpine, one of
them rising to the height of 2,100 feet above the
level of the sea. See Dundhoich. The vales or ba-
sins of the streams are in general little other than
gigantic furrows in the wide field of hills. If the
entire area of the parish be reckoned at 264 parts,
54 of them are in tillage, 13 under wood, and 197
pastoral or waste. The principal landowners are
Mackenzie of Portmore and Lord Elibank. Real
rental in 1834, £6,364. Estimated yearly value of
raw produce in 1834, £13,693. Assessed property
in 1860, £7,568 0s. Od. The parish is traversed
along the vale of Eddlestone water by the road
from Peebles to Edinburgh, and by the Peebles rail-
way, now nearly completed. The village of Edles-
ton stands on the Peebles and Edinburgh road, 4
miles from Peebles and 17 from Edinburgh. A
fair formerly held here has become extinct. Popu-
lation of the parish in 1831, 836; in 1861, 753.
Houses, 138.
This parish is in the presbytery of Peebles, and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Lord
Elibank. Stipend, £249 5s. lid. ; glebe, £20. Un-
appropriated teinds, £98 16s. 8d. The parish-church
was built in 1829. Sittings, 420. Schoolmaster's
salary, is now £50, with about £52 other emolu-
ments. Four ministers in direct line of generation,
great-grandfather, grandfather, father, and son, have
held the incumbency of Eddleston from 1697 to the
present day.
EDDRACHILLIS. See Edderachillis.
EDEN (The), the chief stream of the northern
half of Fifeshire. It rises among the Ochils, in the
Kinross-shire portion of the parish of Arngask, at a
point within 2 miles of that where Kinross-shire,
Perthshire, and Fifeshire meet, and about 3| miles
north of the town of Kinross. It, however, has
several head-streams of nearly equal length of run ;
and it speedily begins to be fed by affluents from
the Lomonds. Its course thence lies through the
parish of Strathmiglo, — between the parishes of
Auchtermuchty, Collessie, and Monimail on the left
bank, and the parishes of Falkland, Kettle, and
Cults on the right bank, — through the parish of
Cupar, — and between the parishes of Dairsie and
Leuchars on the left bank, and the parishes of Kem-
bach and St. Andrews on the right bank, — to the
middle of the head of St. Andrew's bay. Its pre-
vailing direction is at first east by north, and after-
wards east-north-east ; and its length of course, ex-
clusive of sinuosities, is about 24 miles. Its tribu-
taries are numerous, but all small. Its basin, for
the most part, is a fine flat valley, luxuriant in pro-
duce, ornate in cultivation, soft in' feature, moie
beautiful than bold in its screens, and bearing the
names of Stratheden and the How of Fife. Large
portions of land on its banks were formerly devas-
tated by its floods, but are now protected by canal-
cuts and embankments. Its current, throughout
the greater part of its course, particularly below the
town of Cupar, is very slow, yielding but a scanty
water-power, yet is remarkably well husbanded for
the propelling of mills. Trouts formerly abounded
in it, but have been greatly diminished by the ac-
tion of manufactories. The river might at no great
expense be made navigable to Cupar ; yet, except
at high spring-tides, it is not at present affected
by the tide above Nidie mill-dam, about 4 miles
from its mouth. Its bed, over most of the tidal
part, or for about 2J miles from its mouth, expands
into an estuary of 1^ mile of maximum width; the
greater part of which, however, is left with a bare
surface of silt by the receding tide. Toward the
middle of the estuary are extensive beds of cockles
and mussels. The name Eden signifies, iu the Cel-
tic language, ' a gliding stream,' and is perfectly
descriptive of this river.
EDEN (The), a small river in the district of
Merse. It rises in the parish of Gordon, near Hecks-
peth ; and flows first eastward, and then southward,
dividing the parish of Earlston from the parishes of
Hume and Nenthorn. It then suddenly debouches
to the east, and flows through the parish of Nen-
thorn, and over a neck of Roxburghshire, intersect-
ing in its course the parish of Ednam, and falls ihto
the Tweed 3J miles below Kelso. Its whole course
is about 17 or 18 miles. The lower part of its
course is very beautiful, being through rich and
finely-wooded pastoral scenery.
EDEN-CASTLE. See King-Edward.
EDENDON (The), a rivulet of the north-west of
Perthshire. It rises in the western part of the forest
of Athol, among the heights immediately adjoining
Inverness-shire ; and after a course of a few miles
to the south, falls into the Garry, a little above the
inn of Dalnacardoch.
EDENHAM. See Ednam.
EDENKILLIE, a parish in the west side of
Morayshire. It is bounded by Dyke, Rafford,
Dallas, Knockando, Cromdale, Ardclach, and Auld-
earn. Its post-town is Forres, 8J miles north of
the parish-church. Put it is traversed by the mail-
road from Grantown to Aviemore. Its outline is
irregular. Its greatest length north and south is
13 miles; its greatest breadth is 7 miles; and its
EDENSHEAD.
509
EDINBURGH.
area is about 50 square miles. It extends along
the right bank of the Findhom, and is watered by
the Divie, and other streams tributary to tho Find-
horn. It is a pastoral and hilly district, but not
mountainous. The hi sliest hill, tlio Knock of Moray,
has an elevation of about 1,000 feet above sea-level,
and commands a series of rich, diversified, exten-
sive views. The general body of the parish is often
called Brae-Moray, on account of its exhibiting a
gradual rise from the plains of the Moray sea-board.
On the banks of the Findhoni and the Divie are
some of the most romantic scenes which wood, wa-
ter, rocks, and variety of ground can produce. The
natural woods of the forests are very extensive.
The ancient forest of Damaway covers about 900
acres here, with natural wood of almost every kind
indigenous to Scotland. Farther up the river — the
hanks of which are in general covered with trees —
is thewood of Dundaff, of considerable extent. These
forests belong to the Earl of Moray. There are
also considerable aggregates of natural wood on the
other estates ; but the plantations are still more
extensive. Altogether there are in the parish about
4,700 acres under wood, about 3,330 in tillage, and
about 25,000 waste or pastoral. There are five
principal landowners. The mansions are Dunphail,
Relugas, Logie, and a shooting lodge of the Moray
family. In 1829, some of the woods and planta-
tions, with the low grounds, suffered severely from
the floods. Southwards, up the Dorback, one of the
branches of the Findhom, is Lochindorb, in the
middle of which is an island, with the ruins of
Lochindorb castle. Part of that island is within
Edenkillie ; and the ruins also have been commonly
represented as within it, but are really within Crom-
i>ale : which see. The Downe hill of Belugas is a
conical hill, round a considerable part of which runs
the rapid Divie in a deep rocky channel. On the
summit are the remains of a strong fortress of anti-
quity far beyond the period of authentic history.
Higher up the river Divie, stands the castle of Dux-
piiail: which see. The very singular bridge of
Eannich here, is of great antiquity. Tradition de-
rives its name from the illustrious Randolph, Earl
of Moray and regent of Scotland. There is a con-
siderable salmon fishery on the Findhorn at Sluie.
There are corn-mills at Dunphail, Logie, and Half-
Da voch. The yearly value of the raw produce of the
parish was estimated in 1842 at £12,192 10s. As-
sessed property in 1843, £2,774 3s. Id. Population
in 1831, 1,300; in 1861, 1,303. Houses, 264.
This parish is in the presbytery of Forres, and
synod of Moray. Patron, the Earl of Moray. Sti-
pend, £174 8s._ 2d. ; glebe, £10. Schoolmaster's
salary, £35, with an annuity of £38 for retired
schoolmaster. The parish church was built in
1741, and repaired in 1813, and contains 500 sit-
tings. There is a Free church: attendance, 240;
receipts in 1865. £155 5s. 2d. There are Society's
schools at Connicaval and Tullydivie, and female
schools at Half-Davock and the Knock. There are
a parochial library and a savings' bank.
EDENSHEAD, or Gateside, a village near the
centre of the parish of Strathmiglo, Fifeshire. Here
is an United Presbyterian church, with an atten-
dance of about 300.
EDENSTON, a modem village on the southern
border of the parish of Collessie, Fifeshire. Its
houses are neat, comfortable, and well-arranged.
Population, 45.
EDENWOOD. See Ceres.
EDERDOUN. See Edderton.
EDERHAM. See Edrom.
EDERLIN (Loch), a fresh-water lake in the par-
ish of Glassary, Argyleshire. It approaches within
J of a mile of the north-west end of Loch- Awe, and
lies only a few feet higher, embosomed in moun-
tains, and adorned with plantations.
EDGAR'S WALLS. See Coldinoham.
EDGEHUCKLIN BRAE. See Pinkie.
EDGERSTON, an estate, with a quoad sacra
5 .Irish church, in the detached part of the parish of
edburgh, 7J miles south-south-east of the town of
Jedburgh, Roxburghshire. Here also, in old times,
was a Border castle. See Jedburgh and Dunian.
EDINAMPLE. See Earx (Loch).
EDINBURGH,
The metropolis of Scotland. It is romantically sit-
uated on a congeries of hills, in the north of Mid-
Lothian, within from 2 to 4 miles of the frith of
Forth. Its observatory stands in 55° 57' 23" north
latitude, and in 3° 10' 30" west longitude from
Greenwich. Its direction is south-west of Crail,
south-south-west of Aberdeen, south by west of
Dundee, south by east of Perth, south-east by east
of Stirling, east by north of Glasgow, north-east ot
Ayr, north by east of Dumfries, north-west by north
of Jedburgh, west-north-west of Dunse, and west
by south of Dunbar. Its distance in straight line,
as " the crow flies," is 66 miles from the head of
the Solway frith, 127 from Ardnamurcban-point, 186
from John o' Groat's house, and 337 from London.
Its distance, by road, is 16 miles from Dunfermline,
17 from Haddington, 22 from Peebles, 29 from
Cupar-Fife, 31 from Lanark, 35i from Stirling, 36
from Melrose, 38 from Selkirk, 42 from Kelso, 42
from Dundee, 42} from Glasgow, 44 from Perth, 47
from Coldstream, 48 from Jedburgh, 49 from Ha-
wick, 50 from Moffat, 57 from Berwick-upon-Tweed,
61$ from Kilmarnock, 71 from Dumfries, 73$ from
Ayr, 92$ from Carlisle, 104f from Wigton, 108 from
Aberdeen, 115} from Whithorn, 156$ from Inver
ness, and 392 from London. And its distance, by
railway, is 6 miles from Musselburgh, 14 from Kirk-
caldy, 17} from Haddington, 175 from Linlithgow,
19 from Bathgate, 25$ from Falkirk, 29 from Dun-
bar, 32 from Cupar- Fife, 36 from Stirling, 45 from
Perth, 47$ from Glasgow, 49 from Coatbridge, 49$
from Dundee, 52J from Kelso, 53 from Hawick, 55
from Dunse, 57} from Berwick-upon-Tweed, 74 from
Lockerby, 100 from Carlisle, 112} from Aberdeen,
and respectively 398$, 402, and 407$ from London,
the first of these being by way of the Trent valley,
the second by way of Carlisle and Birmingham, and
the third by way of Berwick and Birmingham.
General Description.
The Site of the City.— The hills, which partly form
the site of the city, and partly overshadow it, lie
within a circumference of about 6 miles ; and at
their northern termination, about 2 miles from the
frith, they yield to a base, which slopes gently
away, over a gradient of from 50 to 100 feet, to the
sea. These hills seem to have been thrown up from
a smooth surface by a series of stupendous up-
heavals,— afterwards much modified by denudation
and other processes of change ; and, in their natural
state, just before being overrun by man, they must
have formed a grouping of scenery strikingly pe-
culiar, and remarkably picturesque. The highest
and most easterly is Arthur's Seat, [which see,]
rising 822 feet above the level of the sea, having a
slope to the east, which goes rollingly down over a
base of nearly a mile, and presenting to the west a
precipitous, nearly perpendicular, and very varied
face of rugged rock. The outline of this hill, aa
seen from the west, or a little to the south of west,
undulates so strangely as to bear a close rcsem-
EDINBURGH.
510
EDINBURGH.
blanoe to the sculptured figure of a lion couchant ;
the summit of the hill, or head of the gigantic
sculpture, rising on the south, and the shaggy mane
and reclining body stretching toward the north.
From the deep dell at the western base of Arthur's
Seat, the ground rises regularly over a base of
about 700 yards, till it attains a height of 574 feet
above the level of the sea ; and then in a semicircle,
sweeping round from the south to the north, breaks
perpendicularly down, in a picturesque face of
naked, rugged greenstone rock ; and, after an es-
planade several feet in width — on which a prome-
nade of most commanding and gorgeous prospect is
carried round — descends in an inclined plane of
sandy or earthy surface so rapid as to be traversable
only by an adventurous and firm-footed tourist.
See Salisbury Crags. These two hills, except in
the romantic dell which lies between them, and
which is as sequestered, and as congenial to the
musings of solitude or genius, as the haunt of a poet
in a far-away spot of Highland seclusion, possess
no surface which could ever, without prodigious
labour, be made the site of any suburban extension
of the city. Two hundred yards north-west of the
northern end of the Salisbury semicircle, rises the
Calton-hill, lifting a rounded eminence, 344 feet
above the level of the sea, presenting an abrupt and
bending face to the north-west, and descending in
other directions by rapid though not untraversable
declivities. See Calton-Hill. This hill — as will
afterwards be seen — bears aloft one or two of Edin-
burgh's proudest public structures, and has been
compelled by art to afford place for some rows of her
private though palace-looking buildings ; yet it is
principally remarkable, like the loftier and more
untameable hills to the south-east, for the magnifi-
cence of the panoramic landscape which a spectator
sees from its summit, and for the contributions of
boldness and romance which it makes to the grouped
scenery of the city.
From the hollow along the western base of Salis-
bury-crags, the ground rises westward by a rapid
gradient thickly crowded with streets, till, at the
distance of 500 yards, it attains an elevation of about
150 or 180 feet, forming a broad-backed ridge of
about 1,400 yards from east to west, which falls
first gently and next acclivitously down on its north-
ern side, and which, on its southern side, slopes insen-
sibly away, till, at the distance of a mile, it is lost in
the soft undulations of the country. Nearly all this
extensive rising ground is covered with buildings,
and forms the site of the new or modern district of
the Old Town. Parallel to it, on the north side, lies
a hill — which has been aptly compared to a long
wedge lying flat on the ground — which gradually
ascends westward from the hollow between Salis-
bury-crags and Calton-hill, till, at the distance of
1,800 yards, it swells aloft in the craggy heights of
Edinburgh-castle, 445 feet above the level of the
sea, and presents to the west a perpendicular, ro-
mantic, and far-seen face of naked basaltic rock.
The gorge along the south side of this ridge, lying
between it and the one formerly described, is
ploughed by an ancient line of street, once the
abode of the elite of the city, but now the putrid
haunt of the poorest of the poor, and bearing nearly
the same relation to Edinburgh which the district
of St. Giles does to the metropolis of the south. The
ridge or wedge-like slope itself is the site of the
original city, — a street stretching along its centre,
sending off numerous lanes and alleys down the
brief descents on its southern and northern sides, and
presenting some resemblance to a reptile, witli the
Castle for its head, the lanes for its lateral members,
and Ilolyrood-house for its tail. Along the north-
ern base of the ridge, extends a deep hollow — for-
merly covered with water, but now drained and
variously disposed of by art — about 200 yards in
average breadth. From this hollow, another emi-
nence, or veiy gentle and broad-backed ridge, great-
ly less marked in its features than any other of the
eminences, ascends softly northward over a distance
of 250 yards; and then gracefully, in an easy
gradient, slopes away into the plain which inter-
venes between it and the sea. This eminence is of
soft and nearly imperceptible declivity at its west-
ern end ; but on the east it breaks suddenly down,
and leaves a gorge between its own base and that of
Calton-hill. Along this beautiful flat ridge stands
the original New Town; and on its northern, slow
descent, as well as on the plains beyond it, both
northward and westward, stands the second New
Town, or most magnificent portion of the metropolis
of Scotland.
fiesemblcmce to Athens. — Most travellers who have
visited both cities have remarked a resemblance, as
to site and general appearance, between Edinburgh
and Athens. Stuart, the author of ' The Antiquities
of Athens,' was the first who vividly depicted it;
and he has been followed by Dr. Clarke, Mr. H. W.
Williams, and so many other literary painters well-
qualified to form a correct judgment, that the
names ' Modern Athens,' and ' the Athens of the
North,' have been assigned to Edinburgh by general
consent. Mr. Williams says : " The distant view
of Athens from the jEgean sea is extremely like
that of Edinburgh from the frith of Forth ; though
certainly the latter is considerably superior."
" There are," he adds, " several points of view on
the elevated grounds near Edinburgh, from which
the resemblance" between the two cities " is com-
plete. From Tor-Phin, in particular, one of the low
heads of the Pentlands, immediately above the vil-
lage of Colinton, the landscape is exactly that of the
vicinity of Athens, as viewed from the bottom of
Mount Anchesmus. Close upon the right, Briles-
sus is represented by the mound of Braid ; before us,
in the abrupt and dark mass of the castle, rises the
Acropolis ; the hill Lycabetus, joined to that of the
Areopagus, appears in the Calton ; in the frith of
Forth we behold the jEgean sea ; in Inch-Keith,
iEgina ; and the hills of the Peloponnesus are pre-
cisely those of the opposite coast of Fife. Nor is
the resemblance less striking in the general charac-
teristics of the scene ; for, although we cannot ex-
claim, ' these are the groves of the Academy, and
that the Sacred Way ! ' yet, as on the Attic shore,
we certainly here behold —
-A country rich and fray,
Broke into hills with balmy odours crowned,
And joyous vales,
Mountains and streams,
Ajid clustering towns, and monuments of fame,
And scenes of glorious deeds, in little bounds ! '
It is, indeed, most remarkable and astonishing, that
two cities, placed at such a distance from each other,
and so different in every political and artificial cir-
cumstance, should naturally be so alike. Were the
National monument to be erected upon the site of
the present barracks in the Castle, an important ad-
ditional feature of resemblance would be conferred
upon the landscape; that being the corresponding
position of the Parthenon in the Acropolis." But
when he peers into the interior of the two cities,
that distinguished artist paints the brilliant metro-
polis of Scotland in tints far richer than he dares
bestow upon the ancient capital of Greece. He says :
" The epithets Northern Athens and Modern Athens
have been so frequently applied to Edinburgh, that
the mind unconsciously yields to the illusion awak-
EDINBURGH.
511
EDINBURGH.
ened by these terms, and imagines that tho resem-
blance between these cities must extend from the
natural localities and the public buildings, to the
streets and private edifices. The very reverse of
this is the case; for, setting aside her public struc-
tures, Athens, even in her best days, could not have
coped with tho capital of Scotland. The truth is,
that the comforts of the Athenians were constantly
sacrificed to the public benefit; and the ruins which
still remain to attest the unrivalled magnificence of
the temples of Athens, afford no criterion by which
we may judge of the character of her private dwell-
ings. Athens, as it now exists, independent of its
ruins, and deprived of the charm of association, is
contemptible, — its houses are mean, and its streets
scarcely deserve the name. Still, however, ' when
distance lends enchantment to the view,' even the
mud-walls of Athens assume features of importance,
and the modern city appears almost worthy of the
Acropolis which ornaments it. It is when seen
under this advantage that the likeness of Edin-
burgh to Athens is most strikingly apparent."
Scenery. — Edinburgh presents, from almost every
point whence it can be viewed, such scenic group-
ings as are unrivalled in any existing city in the
world. It possesses atractions peculiarly its own,
and challenges the admiration of a spectator by dis-
plays of general excellence, unaided by the sumptu-
ousness of any one object, and undegraded hy de-
teriorations from its prevailing style of magnificence.
A tourist coming within view of the city sees no
aerial dome rising from a sea of houses, as in Rome
or London ; and no forest of turrets shooting up from
a huge cathedral, as in Milan or York; but he looks
on a singularly varied and uniformly rich display of
imposing architecture, — sheltered in the vale, — ■
climbing up the acclivity, — stretching away on the
plain, — or surmounting the precipice, and crowning
the romantic hill. Even the picturesque confusion
of the ancient part of the city combines with the
symmetrical proportions of the streets and squares
of the modern part, to render the architectural
covering of the congeries of hills peculiarly attrac-
tive. Nowhere is the eye offended with the vicinity
of meanness to elegance, or with a dingy common-
place field of houses spread around a magnificent
edifice, or attached to an elegant and airy street;
but neatness, beauty, novelty, picturesqueness,
grandeur, and nearly all the principles which thrill
the beholder with mingled wonder and pleasure,
seem everywhere to straggle for ascendency, and,
like a harmony of sounds, combine their powers to
produce an unique and superb effect.
The views exterior to the city, whether seen from
points within itself, or combining with it outwardly
into a general landscape, are not less striking.
They extend from the Lammermoors to the Gram-
pians, and from the sources of the Forth to the
German ocean; they comprise, on their backgrounds,
a diversified series of mountain range and isolated
hill, and on their middle grounds, great part of the
waters of the Forth, great part of Fifeshire, and a
still greater part of the luxuriant, gardenesque, un-
dulating plain of the Lothians; and, excepting the
grandly terrible, or the wildly solemn, or the de-
solate, they exhibit both specimens and combina-
tions of almost all styles of scenery. The portions
nearest the city, in particular, are brilliantly pictur-
esque, a very gallery of landscape, almost a terrestrial
glory. And if by the environs might be understood
as much of the country as lies well depicted under
the eye from vantage-grounds within the city or in
its near neighbourhood, these may be said to extend,
on some sides, to the limits of vision; for bold fea-
tures in the distance are so blended by intermediate
frith or plain with bold features close at hand as to
hold equally distinct place in the one gorgeous pic-
ture. Hence has Dr. Moir, the " Delta" of Black-
wood, sung, in the well-known lines, —
" Traced like n map the landscape lies
In eultured beauty stretching wide;
There Portland's green acclivities,
There Ocean, with its azure tide,
There Arthur's Seat, and, gleaming through
The southern wing, Duncdin blue;
While in the orient Lammer's daughters,
A distant giant range, arc seen,
North Berwick Law, witli cone of green,
And Bass amid the waters."
The picturesque views of the city from without,
either by itself or in combination with the environs,
are exceedingly numerous, and nearly all of a high
order. Some close ones on the west, especially on
the lands of Coates, comprise the princely piles of
the newest part of the New town on the fore-
ground,— the dome of St. George's church and the
tower and pinnacles of St. John's episcopal chapel
in the distance, — and the rounded, frowning, but
sublime face of the castle, as it stoops precipitously
to the west. More remote ones on the same side,
particularly from certain spots of Corstorphine hill,
command a full prospect of the greater part of the
New town and of the lofty part of the Old in reclin-
ing profile, immediately shaded by Salisbury Crags
and Arthur's Seat, and lying like a mass of witchery
or a poet's dream on an expanse of fairy-land,
which stretches away to the ocean. Numerous
close views on tho north side, especially one from
the Experimental gardens and another from the
Warriston cemetery, are filled with the New town,
in all its length and regularity, occupying the whole
of the broad acclivity from the Water of Leith
to the line of summit-elevation, and seeming to
send aloft there not only grand architectural aspira-
tions of its own, but also the cloud-kissing edifices
of the castle, tho towers and spires of the high par s
of the Old town, and the various picturesque monu-
ments of the Calton-hill, — the last immediately
foiled behind and on the left by the romantic masses
of Arthur's Seat. The best distant views on this
side are all from points on the coast or sea-board of
Fifeshire, so remote as to reduce the city to minia-
ture, but marvellously enriched by having the Forth,
the Leith ports and the Lothian sea-board on the
front-grounds, and the ranges of the Lammermoors
and the Pentlands on the sky-line.
The views on the east side, excepting very partial
ones, are chiefly from the eminences of Calton hill,
Salisbury Crags, and Arthur's Seat. Those from the
Calton hill are the completest, perfectly command-
ing, nearly panoramic, looking absolutely into the
city, along some of its principal thoroughfares, and
down its very dells, yet are not less remarkable
for comprehending a survey of greater part of
all the exterior landscape, even from Benlomond to
the sea. The view from the face of Salisbury Crags,
as depicted by Sir Walter Scott, is noticed in our
article on Arthur's Seat; and that from the crown
of Arthur's Seat itself differs principally in having
the crest of the Crags on the fore-ground, and in
carrying the eye around great part of the exterior
panorama. Perhaps the best view of the mere city
from the east, exclusive of the environs, is one from
St. Anthony's chapel. A spectator there sees at his
feet the verdant memorials of the royal park, and
the quadrangular palace of Holyrood, with the
venerable rains of the royal chapel abutting from
one of its angles; he looks over it along the deep
hollow on the east of the Old town, with its thickly-
figured carpeting of houses, till his view is arrested
by the North bridge, with its palace-looking sum-
EDINBURGH.
512
EDINBURGH.
mit of buildings above, stretching off toward the
east, and with its lofty arches below, occasioning
an air of mystery to hang over the scenery beyond,
of which they allow only a narrow view ; and he
looks up on his right to the double ascent of Calton-
hill, overhung on its first precipitous acclivity by
the classic monument of Burns, and the bold castel-
lated forms of the county-jail and bridewell, — de-
corated, on the esplanade at the middle of its ascent,
with the fine Grecian structure of the Royal High
school, and the beautiful sweep of buildings called
Regent-terrace, — and crowned on its rounded ac-
clivitous summit with the towering pillar erected to
the memory of Nelson, and the naked antique-look-
ing colonnade of the National monument; and he
surveys, a little to his left, the whole of the elabor-
ated surface of the ancient city, struggling crowd-
edly upward from the point of the wedge-like hill,
stratum above stratum, or ridge above ridge, send-
ing aloft in its progress the picturesque steeple of the
Tron church, the high broad tower of St. Giles, with
its architectural crown, the grand Gothic tower of
Victoria Hall, with its mass of pinnacles and its
soaring spire, and terminating in the citadel works,
the lofty eminence, and the ragged but romantic
outline of Edinburgh castle.
Good views of the city from the south, both near
and distant, are numerous, yet all similar to one
another, commanding prime profiles of Arthur's Seat
and Salisbury Crags on the right and the Castle rock
on the left, together with expressive massings of
the intermediate romantic architecture of the Old
town. But much the finest are those from emi-
nences, particularly Braid hill and Blackford hill,
which at the same time command a background
prospect of the Forth and Fifeshire. Sir Walter
Scott has immortalized that from Blackford hill by
describing it as a landscape which rivetted the gaze
of his Lord Marmion, — " the fairest scene he e'er
surveyed." Said he,—
" The wandering eye could o'er it go,
And mark the distant city glow,
With gloomy splendour red; •
For. on the smoke- wreaths, huge and slow,
That round her sable turrets flow,
The morning beams were shed,
And tinged them with a lustre proud,
Like that which streaks a thunder-cloud,
Such dusky grandeur clothed the height
Where the huge castle holds its state,
And all the steep slope down,
Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky.
Piled deep and massy, close and high,
Mine own romantic town!
But northward far, with purer blaze,
On Ochil mountains fell the rays,
And as each heathy top they kissed,
It gleamed a purple amethyst
Yonder the shores of Fife you saw;
Here Preston-Bay and Berwick-Law;
And, broad, between them rolled,
The gallant Frith the eye might note,
Whose islands on its bosom float
Like emeralds chased in gold."
In all the great exterior views of the city, from
all sides, a prominent feature, or rather great group
of features, is the castle. " From whatever side you
approach the city," remarks an eloquent writer,
" whether by water or by land, whether your fore-
ground consist of height or of plain, of heath, of
trees, or of the buildings of the city itself, this gigan-
tic rock lifts itself high above all that surrounds it,
and breaks upon the sky with the same command-
ing blackness of mingled crags, cliffs, buttresses, and
battlements. These, indeed, shift and vary their
outlines at every step ; hut everywhere there is the
same unmoved effect of general expression, the same
lofty and imposing i mage, to which the eye turns
with the same unquestioning worship. Whether
you pass on the southern side, close under the bare
and shattered blocks of granite, where the crumb-
ling turrets on the summit seem as if they had shotout
of the kindred rock in some fantastic freak of nature,
and where, amidst the overhanging mass of darkness,
you vainly endeavour so descry the track by which
Wallace scaled — or whether you look from the
north, where the ragged cliffs find room for some
scanty patches of moss and broom, to diversify
their barren grey — wherever you are placed, and
however it is viewed, you feel at once that here is
the eye of the landscape, and the essence of the
grandeur. Neither is it possible to say under what
sky or atmosphere all this appears to the greatest
advantage. The heavens may put on what aspect
they choose, they never fail to adorn it. Changes
that elsewhere deform the face of nature, and rob
her of half her beauty, seem to pass over this ma-
jestic surface only to dress out its majesty in some
new apparel of magnificence. If the air is cloud-
less and serene, what can be finer than the calm
reposing dignity of those old towers — every de
licate angle of the fissured rock, every loop-hole,
and every lineament seen clearly and distinctly in
all their minuteness ? Or, if the mist be wreathed
around the base of the rock, and frowning fragments
of the citadel emerge only here and there from out
the racking clouds that envelop them, the mystery
and the gloom only rivet the eye the faster, and the
half-baffled imagination does more than the work of
sight. At times, the whole detail is lost to the eye
— one murkytinge of impenetrable brown wraps rock
and fortress from the root to the summit — all is lost
hut the outline; but the outline makes up abun-
dantly for all that is lost. The cold glare of the sun,
plunging slowly down into a melancholy west be-
yond them, makes all the broken labyrinth of
towers, batteries, and house-tops paint their heavy
breadth in tenfold sable magnitude upon that lurid
canvass. At break of day, how beautiful is the
freshness with which the venerable pile appears
to rouse itself from its sleep, and look up once more
with a bright eye into the sharp and dewy air ! At
the grim and sultry hour of noon, with what languid
grandeur the broad flag seems to flap its long weight
of folds above the glowing battlements ! When the
daylight goes down in purple glory, what lines ol
gold creep along the hoary brow of its antique
strength ! When the whole heaven is deluged, and
the winds are roaring fiercely, and ' snow and hail
and stormy vapour,' are let loose to make war upon
his front, with what an air of pride does the veteran
citadel brave all their well-known wrath, ' cased in
the unfeeling armour of old time ! ' The Capitol it-
self is but a pigmy to this giant."
The good interior views of Edinburgh are at once
exceedingly numerous, exceedingly diversified, and
eminently picturesque. No other city in the world
can show their equal. Not only is architecture here
in her finest forms of both romance and beauty j not
only does statuary lend large aid to her sister art ;
not only are there grand street views, great expanses
of masonry, all varieties of urban magnificence ; but
there are also mighty natural features- — cliffs, dells,
and ravines, — and remarkable breadths of artificial
rural decoration, — gardens and pleasure-grounds,
elaborate productions of landscape gardening. The
streets of the city, too, even in its central parts,
afford multitudinous prospects, brilliant and exten-
sive, through sudden openings, along vistas, or over
masses of house-tops, away to the distant country,
over frith and dale to the mountains or the ocean.
One of the richest of these prospects is seen at the
head of Castle-street, on emerging to the east side of
the castle-esplanade, or still better from the boml*
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513
EDINBURGH.
battery of the castle itself, where the space between
the Old town and the New town appears almost per-
pendicularly under tho eye, with the Scott monu-
ment on its further verge, the Melville monument
a little beyond, and the masses of greater part of
the New town all around.
" Saint Margaret, what a sight is here !
Long miles of masonry appear;
Scott's Gothic pinnacles arise,
And Melville's statue greets the skies,
And sculptured front and Grecian pile
Tho pleased yet puzzled eye beguile ;
From yon far landscape where the sea
Smiles on in softest witchery ;
Till, riant all, the hills of Fife
Fill in the charms of country life."
But many and rich and varied as are the Edin-
burgh views, there is one, as we formerly hinted,
which in a considerable degree comprises them all.
This is the view from the Calton hill. Yet it is
properly not one view, but a circle of views ; and,
if we do not mistake, it is what first suggested to
artists both the idea and the name of a panorama.
The prospect here is so gorgeous, so grand, so replete
with every thing in either city or sea or country
landscape which can thrill and animate with de-
light, that he is a daring artist who attempts to
depict with either quill or pencil the multitudinous
splendours of the scene. We must simply say, in
general, that a spectator walking around the higher
part of the hill, along a path cut out for his accom-
modation, commands in succession a full survey of
most parts of both the Old town and the New, and,
in addition, looks away north, east, south, and west,
over scenery which, even if no queen-city, in royal
costume, presided in its centre, would compete, in
the power and variety of its charms, with nine land-
scapes in every ten which poetry has immortalized
in song. The noble estuary of the Forth, reflect-
ing from its mirror-surface the image of many a
smiling town and village and mansion which sit
joyously on its banks, and bearing along on its
bosom yawl and ship and steam-vessel, till it glides
past the Bass and North Berwick law, and becomes
lost in the horizon, — the undulating verdant coun-
try beyond it, receding in distant loveliness till it is
obscured in the shadowy splendour of the Ochil
hills and the Grampians, — the fertile fields and va-
ried park and woodland scenery which flaunt gaily
along the southern shore of the frith, — and, close at
hand, the solitary grandeur of Arthur's Seat, and
the wild beauty of Salisbury-crags, with their pre-
cipitous descents, their pastoral slopes, and their se-
questered hollows, — these are some features, faintly
coloured and rudely sketched, of a landscape which
combines in a magnificent expanse the richest ele-
ments of the beautiful and the sublime, and which
are seen over a foreground of portions of Edinburgh
opulent beyond parallel in the attractions of city-
scenery.
Advantages of Site. — The situation of Edinburgh,
while so replete with beauty, is scarcely less con-
tributive to utility. The prevalence of rapid slopes
in all directions, and in all parts, promotes drainage
and provokes to cleanliness. The elevation of the
hills, and the disseverment of them by great natural
funnels, produce strong baffling breezes, with the
effect of healthful ventilation. The vicinity of coal-
fields on all sides, and the near neighbourhood of sea-
ports, together with ready access to them, present
valuable facilities for manufacture, commerce, and
general trade, whenever it shall please capitalists
to attempt here enterprises which have long been suc-
cessfully carried on in far less favourably situated
towns, such as Dunfermline, Hawick, Preston, Man-
chester, Leeds, Halifax, Sheffield, Birmingham, and
many other places. The profusion of materials for a
good natural schooling of the mind, particularly splen-
did scenery, diversified walks, and a rich neighbour-
ing flora and fauna, enhanced by metropolitieal in-
fluences, and kept in play by at least an equal pro-
fusion of the best known artificial appliances, ren-
ders Edinburgh second to not another place on earth
as a seat of learning. Nor, if need should happen,
might her ravines, her cliffs, her bastioned crags,
her relations to sea and territory enable her to figure
less as a retreat of freedom or a seat of empire.
Where else could there be such stern street-fight-
ting ? where such a war of barricades ? where
such an urban Thermopylae ? where, except at
Constantinople, such a fit place for a mistress-city
of many nations? " What the tour of Europe was
necessaiy to see elsewhere," said Sir David Wilkie.
" I now find congregated in this one city. Here
are alike the beauties of Prague and of Salzburgh ;
here are the romantic sites of Orvietto and Tivoli ;
and here is all the magnificence of the admired bays
of Genoa and Naples ; here, indeed, to the poet's
fancy, may be found realized the Roman Capitol and
the Grecian Acropolis." And says Mr. Hallam,- •
" Even thus, methinks, a city reared should be,
Yea an imperial city, that might hold
Five times a hundred noble towns in fee,
And either with their might of Babel old,
Or the rich Roman pomp of empery
Might stand compare, highest in arts enrolled,
Highest in arms, brave tenement for the free.
Who never crouch to thrones, or sin for gold.
Thus should her towers be raised ; with vicinage
Of clear bold hills, that curve her very streets,
As if to vindicate 'mid choicest seats
Of art, abiding Nature's majesty, —
And the broad sea beyond, in calm or rage,
Chainless alike, and teaching liberty."
Climate. — The climate of Edinburgh is of the
same general nature as that of all the east coast of
Scotland, but rather colder than in the surrounding
valleys, rather less severely scourged by the east
winds of spring than places nearer the German
ocean, and perceptibly modified in some other par-
ticulars by Arthur's Seat and the other hills. Some
spots in the city, also, as compared to others, for
example Holyrood as compared to the Castle, or
Newington as compared to Broughton,are sheltered
and warm. The mean annual fall of rain is about
24 inches, being nearly one half less than that on
the western coast of Scotland. The fall in 1834
was 20-98 inches; in 1837, 26-77 inches; in 1840,
25-26 inches ; in 1847, 20-82 inches ; and in 1848,
30'21 inches. The wettest mouths, or at least those
in which there is the greatest average of ifain-fall,
are July, August, and September ; and the driest
months are March and April. The mean temper-
ature of the year is 47° 1' ; of summer, 57° 2' ; of
winter, 38° 4'. The summer temperature is lower
than that of most parts of England ; and the winter
temperature is higher. Snow seldom lies for any
length of time. East winds prevail in April and
May, sometimes also in March ; and are usually
cold and dry, frequently very chilling, and sometimes
accompanied by injurious fogs. West and south
west winds prevail in all the other months ; and are
usually genial, and often highly charged with mois-
ture. In a recent year, north winds blew 10 days,
north-east winds 18 days, east winds 101 J days,
south-east winds 14 days, south winds 42 days, south-
west winds 30£ days, west winds 13S days, and
north-west winds 11 days. Thunder-storms are
most common in the latter part of May and through-
out June, and almost invariably come from the
south ; but in summers which have a prevalence of
easterly or northerly winds, they are of rare occur-
rence near the city, the electric collisions taking
2 K
EDINBURGH.
514
EDINBURGH.
place more to the west or the north. The compa-
rative salubrity of the climate will afterwards be
shown in a section on the vital statistics of the city.
Natural History. — To speak of natural history in
connexion with most cities, is absurd, — in connexion
even with the immediate environs of many, is al-
most unmeaning; but to speak of it in connexion
with Edinburgh very fully, as to the immediate en-
virons, and in a considerable degree as to some
large spots within the city, is perfectly appropriate.
Nature, in the exhibition of many of her characteris-
tic productions, continues here in grand power, —
partly invaded by art, indeed, and partly modified,
— but also compensated for injuries done to her,
and on the whole rather helped than hindered in her
displays.
All the hills, in many parts, give interesting les-
sons on the igneous rocks. Calton hill, Salisbury
Crags, and Arthur's Seat, afford fine instructions on
the varieties of these rocks, and on their connexions
with stratified rooks. Many places in the environs,
and some within the town, exhibit pleasing speci-
mens of the composition, dips, and mutual relations
of various strata belonging to the coal formation, —
sandstones, conglomerates, shales, and arenaceous
limestone. Two localities in the near vicinity,
Craigleith and Burdiehouse, have furnished many
magnificent fossils. An overlying diluvium in
many a place contains coprolites and other exuviae
of ancient fishes. Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat
contain some gems and many curious minerals;
and they display, in some parts, remarkable evi-
dences of peculiar geognostic action which have
been the subject of much discussion among most
eminent geologists.
" Perhaps few cities," remarks the writer of the
New Statistical Account, " possess within their im-
mediate boundaries such a variety of botanical pro-
ductions as Edinburgh. On Arthur's Seat there
are not fewer than 400 species of plants. Some of
these are perhaps not strictly indigenous, the fancy
or partiality of botanists having naturalised several
there to the soil. Yet the diversity of hill and
valley, and the favourable exposures and congenial
soil at all seasons of vegetation, afford an interest-
ing treat to the lovers of the simple productions of
nature. On the slopes and hollows of this beauti-
ful hill will be found, among others, the Asplenium
septentrionale, Arenaria verna, Potentilla verna,
Salvia verbenaca, Euonymus Europeeus, or spindle-
tree, and Pyras aria or white-beam. A considera-
ble variety of mosses and lichens also cover the
green sward, and clothe the hoary and rugged rocks
around. The zoological specimens are no less abun-
dant in this favoured locality. Although so near
the hum of the great city, the hare is not unfre-
quently seen limping across the hollows of Arthur's
Seat. The fox is also an occasional visitor ; while
the note of the cuckoo never fails to enliven the
long and still summer evening. The Pupilio Arta-
xerxes, a butterfly not common in other parts of Scot-
land, is found in the Queen's Park; the Lacerta
agilis and Anguis fragilis, two reptiles, are also not
unfrequent among the debris of Salisbury Crags;
while, in the same localities, a great variety of
shell molluscs — the helix, bulinus, suecinia, pupa,
clausilia, and many others, are found in great
plenty. The blue-backed shrike, Lanius excubitor,
is an inhabitant of Arthur's Seat ; the kestril builds
i ts nest on the castle rock ; and the kingfisher is not
uncommon on the banks of the Water of Leith."
Nor are artificial aids to the observation of Na-
ture's productions, whether for amusement or for
study, either few or trivial. The Botanic garden,
the Experimental garden, Lawson's arboretum, the
numerous public nurseries, the college museum, and
the industrial museum, render natural history as
patent here as the highways. The very walks and
shrubberies and public gardens, also, are in a de-
gree so many invitations to science. To have ro-
binias, liriodendrons, and auracarias as familiar
here as oaks and elms are elsewhere, might be pro-
vocative to a curious taste in trees; and to have
rare flowering exotics and many rare shrubs conti-
nually under the eye, would seem to bespeak that,
in the elegant department of wisdom which con-
sists in knowing all sorts of plants, from the cedar
of Lebanon to the hyssop on the wall, every Edin-
burgh boy might, by mere casual observation, grow
up to be a Solomon. The music of the groves, also,
may be enjoyed as fully in many of the public
walks, and even in some of the streets of this most
lovely city, as in the finest park or the most seques-
tered woodland. " The walks of the Prince's-street
gardens," remarks a periodical writer, respecting a
spot which, besides being almost in the centre of the
city, and flanked by some of the busiest thorough-
fares, is resonant along the middle with the fre-
quent rash of the railway train, " These walks are
made especially delightful by the number of fea-
thered choristers that here, amid trees and thickets
seeking shelter, fill the air morning and evening
with their music. In this respect we may fancy
them to resemble the natural aviaries which are
said to be preserved in Prussia ; for these choristers
find a constant retreat from depredators in the lofty
and inaccessible steeps of the castle rock ; so that
around its base, at their several seasons, the black-
bird, the mavis, the linnet, the robin, the chaffinch,
the hedge-sparrow, and other little birds fill the
air with their notes and songs."
Area. — Edinburgh, in proportion to its popula-
tion, covers a larger area than almost any other
town of Britain. From the north end of Scotland-
street on the north, to Crosseauseway on the south,
it measures geographically 2,400 yards ; and from
Manor-place on the west, to Montgomery street on
the east, 2,600 yards ; and these points may indi-
cate the lines of a rectangle, the area of which, with
some unimportant exceptions, is all covered with
town. But on various parts of this rectangle, es-
pecially on the north, on the north-west, and on
the south, the city has wings of considerable ex-
tent, which, if included in its measurement, would
make its extreme length from north to south about
4,000 yards, and its extreme breadth from east to
west upwards of 3,000. Considerable space, how-
ever, in the very core of the city, is either wholly
or principally unoccupied with building. The area
of Prince's-street gardens and the Castle rock alone
extends 900 yards from east to west, and between
200 and 270 from north to south ; and, excepting
the barracks in the Castle, and the buildings on the
Mound, has not a single inhabitable edifice. The
Queen-street gardens also are an open area, and ex-
tend 850 yards by 130.
The limits we have stated are those of the edi-
ficed city. Other limits, defining jurisdictions of
various kinds, ancient and modern, differ widely
from these and from one another ; but some are
either uninteresting or perplexingly intricate, and
neither these nor the rest afford any aid to topogra-
phical description. We may simply notice that the
city, as defined by four sets of them, is successively
concentric, — first, the ancient royalty, nearly iden-
tical with the space within the old town walls, —
second, the city of Edinburgh, comprising both tne
ancient royalty and an extended royalty, — third,
the county of the city, comprising all the former,
and considerable tracts beyond, — and fourth, the
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515
EDINBURGH.
parliamentary burgh, including tho county of the
city and a large district around it, and forming alto-
gether an irregular polygon of nearly ten miles in
circumference, with St Giles' church in tho centre.
Street Alignments,
We shall now attempt — yet without, at present,
noticing public buildings, or glancing at minute
features — to give a general topographical vicwof
tho arrangements of the city. This must necessarily
be succinct, and, if taken by itself, may bo neither
clear nor interesting; but, if slowly read in con-
nexion with a map of the city, it will be very dis-
tinctly understood, even by a stranger, and will
convey as full and accurate ideas of all the streets
and masses of the city, piece by piece, as are attain-
able by any means short of minute, laborious, per-
sonal survey ; it will exhibit both the arrangements
and the edificmg of the streets incomparably better
than could be done by any amount of mere general
description ; and, at the same time, it will promote
distinctness in indicating the positions of public
buildings and other remarkable objects.
The Old Toicn. — At the Abbey area in front of
Holyrood-house, situated in the middle of the hol-
low between Salisbury-crags and Calton-hill is the
eastern termination and lowest part of the old or
original town. Leaving this area at its north-west
angle, the Canongate moves away westward, over a
distance of 650 yards, — climbing, on its middle or
highest part, the wedge-like ridge or central hill on
which the chief part of the city stands, — and sending
down, over the northern face of the hill, New-street,
Leith-wynd, and numerous closes, and over the
southern face, St. John-street, Mary's-wynd, and
various alleys. Continuous with the Canongate, the
High-street climbs the upper part of the hill, — send-
ing down Niddry-street and some lanes to the south,
— undergoing an intersection at right angles by a
great line of street which runs south and north
through the whole extent of the Old town, and
ploughing its way, under the names of Lawn-mar-
ket and Castle-street, up to an esplanade or open
and elevated area before the gate of the Castle, at a
distance of 900 yards from the commencement of
the Canongate. In its progress it sends off Cock-
burn-street, Bank-street, and numerous lanes to the
north, and Blair-street and George IV.'s bridge to
the south ; and it opens on its southern side, round
both ends of St. Giles' cathedral, into Parliament-
square. This street, after merging from the lower
or Canongate part, till it bends and narrows into the
brief termination of Castle-street or Castle-hill, is
very spacious ; and, over its entire length, it con-
sists^!'very high houses, interspersed with various
public edifices, and wears an antique and remarkably
imposing appearance. From the great height of it's
buildings, the varied yet harmonious forms of their
projected gables and battlements, and the long sweep
which they make, interrupted by few transverse
cuts, and marked at intervals by massive, ornamen-
tal architecture of an age long gone by, this street
possesses a simple and majestic unity of antique as-
pect, which is probably unparalleled in any city of
Britain.
Near the western end of this great thoroughfare,
1 70 yards before it opens into the esplanade of the
Castle, a spacious street- way goes off from its south
side, suddenly debouches, and runs on parallel to it
at an aerial elevation ; and passing along the edge
of the_ Castle rock, spans the yawning hollow be-
low, in an aiiy and magnificent erection called
King's bridge, and sends off Castle terrace, nearly
parallel to the western face of the Castle, to open a
communication with the south-west angle of the
Now town, while it bends round its main road
south-westward and passes into Bread-street, 800
yards from its commencement near the top of High-
street. This remarkable road-way is called the
New West approach. It passes over a seeming im-
practicability of ground, and possesses a peculiarity
of position, from the dark cliffs of the Castle over-
hanging it on one side, and an extent of town
stretching away in the plain beneath it on the other,
which give it an appearance of romance peculiarly
its own.
Bread-street, which the New West approach trans-
versely enters, is one of a large cluster of streets
forming an irregular but fine south-west suburb of
the Old town. The principal streets of the suburb
are Lothian-road, running north and south, parallel
with the western face of the Castle, and forming,
with its north end, a right angle with the west end
of Prince's-street, — Fountain-bridge, running south-
west and north-east, and forming the great thorough-
fare to Biggar and Lanark, — and Gilmore-plaee,
running parallel to Fountain-bridge, 300 yards to
the south. These three streets are all spacious, and
wholly or partially lined with good modern build-
ings ; and they are clustered in various directions
and by various tendrils of communication with
Bread-street, St. Andrew's-place, Castle-barns, Gard-
ner's crescent, Semple- street, Earl Grey -street,
Ponton-street, Home-street, Leven-street, Tollcross,
High Biggs, Portland-Place, Lanrieston-street, and
other localities which, though singly or severally
unimportant, are aggregately an interesting suburb.
At the southern termination of Lothian-road, where
it forms an angle with Fountain-bridge, is Port-
Hopeton, the terminating basin and yard of the
Union canal.
We now return to the area before Holyrood-house.
Leaving this at its south-west angle, a narrow
street called the South back of Canongate, runs
westward, parallel to Canongate, and, in its pro-
gress, looks up St. John-street on its north side, and
sends off, on its south side, parallel to the west base
of Salisbury crags, the celebrated path of Bumbie-
dykes. The South back of the Canongate is 750
yards in length ; and it pin sues its way along the
southern base of the central hill of Edinburgh, and,
for some little distance, lies along the gorge be-
tween it and the southern hill. Just before it ter-
minates on the west, it looks up on the south into
the opening to St. John's hill ; and at its termina-
tion, is met at right angles by the end of Pleasance,
coming in upon it by a long sweep from the south.
Cowgate, a continuation of the Back of the Canon-
gate, wends along the deepest part of the gorge ;
and, in its progress, looks up Mary's-wynd, Niddry-
street, and Blair-street, coming down upon it with
a rapid descent from the north, and various lanes
and the Horse-wynd descending upon it from the
south ; and, though high in its lines of antique
houses, it passes quite underneath the over-span-
ning central arch of South bridge, and the spacious
stride of George IV.'s bridge. Cowgate is narrow
and not quite straight, and, along with the lanes
which run up from it, is the most densely peopled
and the poorest district of the metropolis, — alto-
gether squalid in its appearance, and seeming to
cower along the deep gorge of its locality in order
to escape observation. Seen from George IV.'s
bridge, or the open part of the South bridge, it looks
like a dark narrow river of architecture moving
sluggishly along a dell, and teeming with animated
being, so as to have an appearance quite in keep-
ing with the romantic character of the Old town ;
but were it raised out of its hiding-place, and
stretcled out upon a plain or ridgy eminence, it
EDINBURGH.
516
EDINBURGH.
would be an utter Hot and defilement on the whole
picture of the metropolis. Its length, from the
angle of Pleasance to an angle of Candlemaker-
row which comes down upon it from the south-east
at its western end, is about 800 yards.
" Auld Reekie," says a writer in Fraser's Maga-
zine, with special reference to the Cowgate, " is
built on and between and up that succession of
rocky ridges which makes it the most wonderful
town in the world to look upon, but the most diffi-
cult to erect. The houses, almost all, stand with
their limbs gathered underneath them on one side,
and hanging down over a precipice on the other.
They are like giraffes, with short hind legs and
long front ones, or vice versa. There is hardly one
which is privileged to stand comfortably on level
ground. Modern improvements enable the specta-
tor to take the construction of the town at a glance.
We step on to that grand George IV.'s bridge,
which now conveys all the traffic of this side of the
capital at one leap from one ridge to another. A
wilderness of ragged roofs, and garret windows,
and smoking chimneys, all tumbling and battered
in irregular rows, like a jaw of broken teeth, are
level with our feet ; the gilt weathercock of a ven-
erable church-tower seems within arm's length ;
the grand pile of the Castle rock towers in the dis-
tance above ; while deep below us runs that other
muddy current of life, the Cowgate, with a repeti-
tion of the same scenes we have just related going
on — coal-heaps, dirt-heaps, children, herrings, and
all. From this depth, up to the level of the High-
street, the houses go climbing like trees up a moun-
tain side, the foundations of some level with the
tops of others; like trees, too, on uneven ground
throwing out deep roots of masonry in search of
support, — a wild and rugged scene of artificial
growth, with those alleys or wynds deep between
the houses, looking like gorges and gullies worn
by the action of mountain torrents. These wynds
are the most wretched features of all. The travel-
ler's greatest enthusiasm cannot gild the misery
that too obviously dwells there. There is a species
of dirt and wretchedness which goes beyond the
spell of the picturesque. Some of them are wider
and less squalid ; and still tenanted here and there
by the brass plates and iron scrapers of such few
respectable householders as still linger on in the
Old town ; but the greater number are such as it
seems purgatory to dwell in, and not always safety
to pass through. Nature does all she can to cleanse
the filthy pavement, and purify the mouldering
walls ; blasts of wind whistle through them, and
deluges of rain pour down them ; but not all the
rivers of Damascus, nor the breezes of Arabia, could
sweeten those wretched ravines. The traveller
feels, as, overcoming his strong disgust, he stoops
under the dark cavern-like entrance, and plunges
into the murky twilight of the wynd, that he has
entered that atmosphere of poverty which brings
fever and pestilence, and every ill, moral and phy-
sical, to which flesh is heir, in its train. Here are
none of the light and sunshine of the High-street,
which make all look free, if they did not look hap-
py. The blackened, broken windows, stuffed up
with clouts of rags, look directly on a blank wall,
or down on to the opposite dwellers' misery. Neigh-
bours can shake hands oat of the second story, or
break heads, which they are more likely to do, out of
the third ; for the houses project at each story till
they almost meet, and you look up at a sepulchral
light at top as through a dark chimney."
Continuous with Cowgate, bu* suddenly expand-
ing into three times its width, is the Grass-market.
This is a spacious rectangle, 230 yards in length,
communicating at its south-east angle, through Can-
dlemaker-row, with the southern part of the Old
town, and, at its north-east angle, up the acclivi-
tous curving thoroughfare of West bow and Victo-
ria-street, to George IV.'s bridge, and sending off.
on its south side, an alley of communication with
Heriot's hospital. The Grass-market is darkly
overhung on the north by the precipitous side ot
the esplanade of the Castle, friezed by the New
West approach ; but, on its south side, it is sub-
tended by a gently inclined plane, the southern hill
of the Old town beginning, at the end of Cowgate,
to slope toward the west. The west end of the rect-
angle is closed up by the old Corn-market, with
openings, however, at both sides ; and the east end
of the rectangle is deeply associated with the holiest
and most affecting reminiscences of Scottish his-
tory, as the scene of the last sufferings, the fervid
testimony, and the dying supplications of many a
devout martyr during the sanguinary persecutions
of the Stewarts, — of Cargill and Eenwick, and mul-
titudes more, " of whom the world was not worthy."
The Grass-market is now the chief rendezvous of
carriers and farmers, and persons of various classes
connected with the country market ; and has, for
an ancient street, a remarkably airy and imposing
appearance. Leaving it on the south side of the
Corn-market, Westport continues the line of street
westward over a distance of 330 yards, — narrowed
into a width similar to that of Cowgate, — send-
ing off toward the south, the Vennel and Lady
Lawson's-wynd, — and meeting at its termination
Bread-street, Fountain-bridge, High Eiggs, and
Laurieston, all stretching in different directions to
form the suburb which has been already described.
The point or small area in which these streets and
Westport meet, bears a certain degree of resem-
blance to the Seven Dials of London ; but, for the
most part, looks down rows of architecture greatly
superior in aspect.
Let us now adopt as a starting-point for rapid to-
pographical tours over the remaining parts of the
Old town, the south end of Clerk-street, at New-
ington church. This point is 800 yards due west
from the base of Salisbury crags, and 1,200 yards
south of the Tron church, or nearest part of High
street. Stretching half-a-mile away south from the
point we have selected, is the elegant and opulent
suburb of Newington. Its principal feature is Minto-
street, the great thoroughfare to the towns of Eox- .
burghshire, to Peebles, and to places intermediate.
This street consists of detached two-story houses,
sitting back from the road-way, and surrounded by
flower plots and iron railings; and it has on its
western, but especially on its eastern side, well-
feathered and beautiful wings of building, disposed
In the form of short streets, single rows, or spacious
openings. The entire suburb is a little town of no
common beauty ; a picture in eveiy part, of cheer-
ful ease and refined taste; and almost quite free
from shop or city appliance, to indicate participation
in the common cares of the every-day world.
At Newington church, Montague-street breaks off
from Clerk-street, and runs eastward, or toward
Salisbury-crags, 180 yards. The street in which
it terminates, and which it meets at right angles, is
St. Leonard's-street, and commences a line of com-
munication from the cast wing of Newington on the
south, to the south back of Canongate on the north.
Eunning away northward, St. Leonard's-street sends
down to the east a street called St. Leonard's hill,
in which is the terminus of the Edinburgh and Dal-
keith railway ; and, at a distance of 320 yards, opens
into a little area, whence emerge the Pleasanco
right onward, a small street to the east, and Cross-
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517
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causeway to tho west. The Pleasance, a continua-
tion of St. Leonard's-stroot, is spacious, but of irre-
gular width, somewhat winding, and lined with
antiquated architecture ; and extends GOO yards till
it meets at right angles the South Hack of the
Canongate. In its progress, it sends off to the east
Carnegie-street, Brown-street, Salisbury-street, Ar-
thur-street, and St. John's hill, all descending over
an average distance of 180 or 190 yards, down
a rapidly inclined plane to the Queen's park, ov nar-
row vale at the base of Salisbury-crags, and con-
sisting of plain but neat and uniform houses, built
of hewn but unpolished stone. From the west side
of Pleasance, go off Richmond-street, Adam-street,
and Drummond-street; all about 220 yards in length,
and intersected by two lines of street running paral-
lel with Pleasance. This district, including a conti-
nuation southward to Crosscauseway, and consist-
ing of a wing the whole length of Pleasance, is of
considerably modern aspect, and exhibits a transi-
tion-state between the antique and the modish parts
of the city.
Returning again to Newington church, we find
Clerk-street a continuation of Minto-street, or the
great thoroughfare to the middle districts of the
south of Scotland. Clerk-street is spacious and
well-built; and, after sending off two modem and
uniform streets, Montague and Rankeillour, to St.
Leonard's-street, and opening on the west into a
small area called St. Patrick-square, terminates at
its intersection by Crosscauseway, 380 yards north
of Newington church. Nicolson -street continues
the line of Clerk-street, over a distance of 440 yards,
till it is met at right angles by Drummond-street
from the east, and South College-street from the
west. In its progress, it looks down Richmond-
street, sends off Hill-place, leading into Hill-square,
opens into the small area of Surgeons' hall on the
east, sends off some unimportant communications,
and expands into the neatly-built area of Nicolson-
square on the west. South bridge continues the
line of Nicolson-street 390 yards, sweeping past the
extensive and sumptuous front of the College on the
west, — sending off, on the same side, North Col-
lege-street, and opposite to it, on the east side,
Infirmary-street, — passing over the top of Cow-
gate, — and, just before meeting the High-street,
opening into the area of Hunter square, on the
north-east part of which stands isolatedly the Tron
church, forming the angle of South Bridge-street
and High-street. North Bridge-street now con-
tinues the northerly line over a distance of 370
yards, till it is finally pent up by the majestic front
of the Register office, in the line of Princes-street.
North Bridge-street, over one-third of its length,
consists simply of the lofty road- way of North bridge;
and over another third, at its northern end, is built
only on one side, — yet presents there in its single
row of edifices, owing to their height and elegance
and singular position, one of the most prominent ob-
jects in the city. The entire line of street commen-
cing in Clerk, or rather Minto-street, and terminat-
ing in Prince's-street, is wide, regular, well-edificed,
and of imposing aspect ; and from about the middle
of Nicolson-street northward, is lined with commo-
dious and elegant shops, vying with one another in
brilliancy of display, and surpassed only by a few
lines of shops in the New town, and such localities
as the Regent-street of London and the Grafton-
street of Dublin.
Returning once more to our late starting-point,
we go round the west or rear of Newington church,
and speedily find ourselves at the south end of Buc-
cleuch-street, 100 yards west of Clerk-street. Bue-
cleuch-street runs parallel with the latter, till it falls
in with Crosscauseway, and has a plain appearance.
Branching off from it on the west, and extending
270 yards is Buecleuch-place, — a spacious and re-
tired street of uniform architecture, but possessing
a chilled and forsaken aspect. Fifty or sixty yards
north of Bucclcuch-place, and communicating with
the latter by two openings, expands the fine rect-
angle of George-square, 220 yards by 150; once the
boast of Edinburgh, but now jilted and forgotten
forthe fascinating squares and octagons andcreseents
of the New town. Behind it, on the west and south,
spreads the fine expanse or public promenade of the
Meadows or Hope-park, formerly covered with water,
and known as the South Loch. Returning to the
north end of Buecleneh-street, we find Chapel-street
continuing it, but with a bend to the west of north,
and extending only about 120 yards. At the end of
that distance, Chapel-street runs up against an acute
angle of building which separates it into two con-
tinuous lines. The more easterly of these is Pot-
terrow, which goes in a direction a little to the west
of north, and is afterwards continued by West Col-
lege-street and Horse-wynd, till the latter plunges
down into the gorge of Cowgate. The second con-
tinuous line from Chapel-street is Bristo- street;
which runsnorth-westward, sending off various com-
munications to Potterrow, and is afterwards con-
tinued by Candlemaker-row to the head of Grass-
market, and by George IV.'s bridge, leading off
Candlemaker-row, over the top of Cowgate, to the
Lawn-market or High-street. All the district from
Buccleuch-street onward, which we have hitherto
noticed, is strictly akin in character to that on the
west wing of Pleasance, and consists of unoniament-
ed masonry, free alike from the antique forms
whieh surprise a visitor in High-street and Canon-
gate, and the regularity and elegance which delight
him in the strictly modern parts of the city. From
Bristo-street, about 260 yards north-west of the
north end of Chapel-street, Lothian-street goes off
in a north-east direction over a distance of 170 yards,
till it touches Potterrow ; and it is thence continued
by the line of South College-street eastward into
South Bridge-street. Both these streets are com-
paratively modern and uniform, and contain some
elegant shops. From the west side of Bristo-street,
opposite the exit of Lothian-street, Teviot-row leads
away due west, past the City Poor-house and He-
riot's hospital on the north, and Watson's hospital
on the south, to the beautiful suburb of Laurieston.
This suburb consists of an elegant short street, Archi-
bald-place, stretching south into the Meadows, and
symmetrical rows of building, Wharton-plaee and
Laurieston-place, stretching westward in continua-
tion of Teviot-row, and leading on, at a few yards'
distance, to the suburb formerly described as lying
on the south-west comer of the city. Behind Lau-
rieston, or on its south side, expands the Meadows or
Hope -park, adorned at this part with the fine form
of the Merchant Maiden hospital.
We have now to notice only one small section
more of the Old town ; and, in order to trace dis-
tinctly its locality, must return to the foot of the
Canongate, within a few yards of our first starting-
point, at the area before Holyrood house. Just after
leaving that area, we find, off the foot of the Canon-
gate, an opening to the north ; which offers a wind-
ing path in front, up the acclivity to London-road,
and at the same time branches off right and left into
Abbey-hill and the North back of the Canongate.
Abbey-hill — of no importance in itself — opens an
easy communication, at the distance of 360 yards,
with London-road, and thence with the portion of
the New town whieh sweeps round the base, or
mounts aloft on the terraces, of Calton-hill. The
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North back of the Canongate runs due west, leav-
ing the foot of the Canongate at a very acute angle,
and receding from it till, at its termination in Cal-
ton, after a progress of 800 yards, it is distant from
it, or rather from the continuous line of High-street,
230 yards. The triangle thus formed on two sides,
is completed by Leith-wynd, which comes down
from the head of Canongate, in a direction west of
north, to the west end of the North back of Canon-
gate. Much of this triangle, and of the streets which
form it on the north and west, is the abode of squa-
lidness and poverty ; much of it also is occupied with
densely-peopled lanes and closes, which seem press-
ing together to conceal the misery at their base
beneath the romantic and rugged outline of the
summits of their lofty houses. Leith-wynd is con-
siderably rapid in descent, and, before closing in to
form the triangle, sweeps past the terminus of the
North British railway, situated in the hollow which
is spanned by the lofty North bridge, and lying un-
der the shadow of its arches. The North back of
Canongate lies along the gorge between the base of
Calton-hill and the central hill of the site of Edin-
burgh; at every part of its progress it is frowned
upon by precipitous declivities which Calton-hill
sends down in near contact with its buildings ; and,
at its west end, in particular, it is overhung by per-
pendicular rocks which bear aloft the extensive walls
and towers of the city jail. Communicating with
this street, but debouching round to the north, and
nearly on a line with Leith-wynd, Calton-street
leads off along the gorge between the western base
of Calton-hill and the abrupt eastern termination of
the rising ground on which stands the original part
of the New town; and, conducting beneath the lofty
and beautiful arch of Eegent-bridge, ascends, at a
distance of 300 yards from the foot of Leith-wynd,
to a junction with Leith-street, and thence to a
communication with all the eastern parts of modern
Edinburgh.
The North Loch Valley. — The valley between the
Old town and the New, extending from east to west
about 900 yards, with an average width of about
220 yards, was formerly occupied by a lake, called
the North Loch. The eastern extremity of it, im-
mediately under the open part of the North bridge,
is now disposed principally in spacious vegetable, fish,
and flesh markets, which are accessible by various
paths from the New town, by rapidly descending
alleys from High-street, and by commodious flights
of steps from the North Bridge. The next part of
it, to the west and north, is occupied by the termini,
partly conjoint and partly contiguous, of the North
British railway, the Edinburgh and Glasgow rail-
way, and the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee rail-
way. Then follows a low new bridge, with descend-
ing approaches servingchiefly for therailway termini,
but partly also as a communication between the Old
town and the New. Next are recently formed
gardens, open to all the public, and magnificently
superintended, on an esplanade on their north side,
by the Scott monument. Next strides from side to
side, at a high level, the huge broad earthen mass
of the Mound, crowned by the Royal Institution and
the National Gallery, and overhung on a high steep at
the south end by the Free Church College. And
thence the valley stretches away westward, again
laid out in garden-ground, and sweeping past the
northern face of the Castle, till it becomes the site of
St. Cuthhert's church and the Episcopal chapel of
of St. John's, and is lost beneath the new streets of
the south-west wing or suburb of the New town.
Over half of its total extent, or from the North
bridge to the esplanade of the Castle, this lovely
vallev is overhung along the south by the lofty
gables and abutments of the towering edifices which
terminate the northern alleys from the High-street ;
and, in grouping with them, as well as with the
dark, craggy, vast outline of the overshadowing
Castle, it presents an aspect of romance, and of
mingled beauty and sublimity, which probably was
never rivalled by any other city-view in the world.
The New Town. — The New town of Edinburgh
may be regarded as consisting of four sections, — the
original New town, — the second New town, — the
New town of the lands of Coates, — and the New
town around and on Calton-hill. A briefer nomen-
clature, and one sufficiently accurate, would be the
southern, the northern, the western, and the eastern
New town. All are distinctive in their respective
features, and, viewed in the aggregate, are rather
caricatured than pictured by the phrase which
royalty is said to have applied to them in compli-
ment, " a city of palaces." Were all the palaces of
Britain aggregated on one arena, and arranged in
palace order, all with their clusters of attendant
buildings, and each with its colonnades, or towers,
or turrets, or abutments and gables of Grecian,
Gothic, Mixed, or Elizabethan architecture, they
would present an architectural landscape motley as
the trappings of a stage-clown, compared with the
dress of simple elegance, unique grandeur, and rich
but chaste adorning which arrays the New town of
Edinburgh.
The southern or original New town, stretches
along the summit of the most northerly of the three
longitudinal and parallel hills which form the site of
Edinburgh; and extends, in length, from nearly the
line of the North bridge on the east, to a line con-
siderably west of the west face of the Castle. Its
form is a regular parallelogram, the sides of which
measure 3,900 feet and the ends 1,090. Its principal
longitudinal streets are three, Prince's-street on the
south, George-street in the middle, and Queen-street
on the north. But between Prince's-street and
George -street, and again between George-street and
Queen-street, ran, over the whole length, meaner
and narrower streets, called respectively Eose-street
and Thistle-street, which have been judiciously in-
terposed for the accommodation of a middle class in
society. — Prince's-street — as far east, at least, as it
strictly belongs to the original New town, or to a
point 160 yards west of the northern termination of
North bridge — consists of only one row of houses,
having the form of terrace, and facing the northern
front, or towering and picturesque heights, of the
Old town. Originally the houses were all of one
figure and elevation, — three stories high, with a sunk
area in front, enclosed by an iron railing; all were
constructed in the manner of elegant and com-
modious dwelling-houses; and they differed only in
acquiring a finer polish of stone, and a freer ac-
cession of ornament, as the street proceeded toward
the west. But during a considerable series of years
preceding 1S40, and increasingly from that time to
the present, the street's uniformity of aspect, spe-
cially over the eastern half of its length, has been
destroyed. Many of the houses have been trans-
muted into shops, warehouses, public offices, or
hotels ; others, for the same or similar uses, have
been enlarged, refaced, or architecturally adorned;
some have given place to large, magnificent new
edifices ; and the whole vie so much with one an-
other in character, as to have lost utterly their old
appearance of simple modest contrast to the ro-
mantic irregularities of the opposite Old town.
George-street, previous to the brilliant elections
of the northern and western New town, was said to
have no rival in the world; and even yet, in com-
bined length, spaciousness, neatness of architcclurc,
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519
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and magnificence of vista and termination, it may
bo pronounced unparalleled. It is 115 feet broad,
and, like its sister-streets, as straight as an arrow ;
it presents over great part of its western half that
uniformity of house-structure which originally char-
acterised Prince's-street; and it displays throughout
its eastern half grand varieties of feature, in inter-
mixture of some of the finest public buildings of the
city with some of its most ambitious shops, ware-
houses, and private dwellings. At its ends are
superb and spacious squares — the western, called
Charlotte-square, and the eastern, St. Andrew's-
square; both sumptuous in the architecture of their
sides, and ruralized and lovely in the garden-plots
and shrubbery of their area. Rising from the centre
of St. Andrew's-square, is a lofty, fluted column
surmounted by a monumental statue of Lord Mel-
ville ; and standing up from the back of Charlotte-
square, is the huge form of St. George's church,
bearing aloft a magnificent cupola and cross ; and
these, on the ends of George-street, decorate and shut
up the view. St. Andrew's-square, however, quite
as much as Prince's-street, and in a grander fashion,
has been transmuted from its original character of a
place of opulent dwelling-houses to a place of com-
mercial stir. " Its old aristocratic occupants have
one and all disappeared, to give place to banks, in-
surance-offices, hotels, and warerooms; yet, with
this altered occupation, the architectural adornments
of the sons of commerce have so greatly exceeded
those of the old gentry, that the few mansions of the
latter still intact appear as ungainly intruders among
their showy and beautiful neighbours."
Queen-street, with not much exception, maintains
its original form, so as to be nearly a fac-simile of
what Prince's-street would still have been, had it
not been touched by the modelling hand of innova-
tion. But the grouping of Queen-street with sur-
rounding objects, and the aspects thrown upon it by
its peculiar locality, are entirely different and even
contrasted. This terrace is not, like Prince's-street,
overlooked at a brief distance by the dark and strange
forms of a loftily situated city of antiquity; but it
looks down, over its whole length, on a tastefully
dressed expanse of public garden; and, across this
it is confronted by an array of edifices more sumptu-
ous and modem than its own; and it thence looks
over all the assembled beauties of the second New
town, away to the joyous Forth and the dim but
beautiful landscape in the distance. — Crossing the
parallelogram of the original New town, from
Prince's-street to Queen-street, cutting George-
street at right angles, are seven streets, St. Andrew's-
street, on the extreme east, and afterwards St.
David's, Hanover, Frederick, Castle, Charlotte, and
Hope streets, the last forming the extreme west.
These streets rise, from each end, by a gentle ascent
to George-street; and are not inferior in spacious-
ness of width and in elegance of architecture, to the
principal longitudinal streets which they intersect.
But while those toward the west maintain, like
Queen-street, their original aspect; those toward
the east have, like Prince's-street, been modified
and altered, in order to become suitable seats of
business.
The second or northern New town considerably
resembles, in its general outline and arrangement of
streets, the original New town, but has some grace-
ful peculiarities, and greatly excels in the splendour
of its architecture. Separated from the other by the
area of Queen-street gardens, it, too, has the form
of a parallelogram, disposed in two lateral terraces,
a central spacious street, and two intervening minor
streets, — intersected by cross streets, and terminated
by spacious areas But the parallelogram is shorter
and broader than that of the northern New town;
the terraces assume, in their eastern part, the form
of crescents; and the terminating area on the went
is circular. The southern terrace, in its straight
part, is Ileriot-row, and, in its crescent part, is
Abereromby-place. The central street is Great King
street, opening on the east end into the large, ele-
gant, symmetrical square called Drummond-place,
and on the west end into the circular and gorgeously
edificed area, called the Royal circus. The smaller
longitudinal streets are Northumberland-street along
the southern section, and Cumberland-street along
the western. The northern terrace, in its straight
part, is Fettes-row; and in its curved part, which
forms a deep arc of a circle, is the Royal crescent.
The intersecting streets are Dublin-street, continued
by Scotland-street, on the extreme east, — Nelson-
street, continued by Duncan-street, — Dundas-street,
continued by Pitt-street, — Howe-street, continued
by St. Vincent-street, — and in the extreme west,
India-street. The northern New town, consisting
of the terraces, streets, and areas, which have been
named, must simply be described in the aggregate,
but with special reference to the Circus, the two
terraces, and Great King-street, as unparalleled,
except in a portion of the western New town, for
the symmetry and taste of its arrangements, and the
superbness and impressment of its architecture.
Extending out like a fan from the north-west
comer of the northern New town, is the beautiful
suburb of Stockbridge, having its main communica-
tion with Edinburgh through the Royal circus. This
cluster of variously arranged, and extensively ele-
gant, rows of buildings, lies on both sides of a beauti-
ful bend of the water of Leith; the straight line of
the river being here from south to north, and
the bend from that line being toward the east. The
buildings on the east side are, for the most part,
arranged in short, continuous streets, called Saxe-
Coburg - place, Claremont- street, Clarence - street,
Brunswick-street, and India- place — nearly in the
form of the half of an octagon, each side of the semi-
oetagonal figure facing the river in the progress of
its bend. The buildings on the west side of the
stream are chiefly arranged into five radii of a circle,
or stretch between these in brief intersecting streets.
The principal radii are Dean-terrace along the river,
— a street which expands into St. Bernard's cres-
cent; and Dean-street, and Raebum-street. The
western and eastern sections are connected by a
bridge, from which the suburb has its name, and
which sends off, on the west, an intersecting street,
to communicate through the Royal Circus with
Edinburgh.
Stretching away east from the northerly part of
Stockbridge, is another suburb of the northern New
town, separated from it by an open area 530 yards
in length, and 170 yards in average breadth, called
Canonmills meadow. In this suburb, at the west,
are the Institution for the deaf and dumb, and the
Edinburgh academy. The principal lines of build-
ings are Claremont-place, connecting it with Stock-
bridge, and Henderson- row, continuous with the
former, and Brandon-street running north and south
on a line with Pitt-street and Dundas-street. From
the north end of Brandon-street, Huntly-street
curves off eastward, and communicates on the right
with the mean, plebeian, confused little suburb of
Canonmills, and on the left, by a handsome bridge
across the Water of Leith, with the interesting
suburbs of Tanfield and Inverleith, — the former in-
cluding a mass of moorish edifices, originally built
for an oil gas-work, and containing the quondam as-
sembly-hall of the Free church, — the latter com-
prising Warriston-erescent, some fine rows of houses
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520
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along the main road to Granton, or on rectangular
deflections from it, and several aristocratic mansions
and great public gardens.
The western New town commences 140 yards
west of the south-west corner of the northern New
town, or of the west end of Heriot-row, in a spa-
cious dodecagon, called Moray-place. This dodec-
agon is pre-eminent in the sumptuousness of do-
mestic architecture which has won for modern
Edinburgh the epithet of palatial. Its houses are
massive Doric structures, built on an uniform plan,
with truly august effect, after designs by Gillespie
Graham. From one side of this dodecagon opens
Darnaway - street, going eastward to form a con-
tinuous line with Heriot-row. Off Darnaway-street,
at right angles, goes Wemyss'-place, to ascend
at right angles to Queen-street. From another side
of the dodecagon opens Forres-street, ascending
parallel with Wemyss'-place, and forming a con-
tinuous line with Charlotte- street. From still an-
other side of the dodecagon goes south-westward,
over a distance of 320 yards, what forms distinctly
the continuation of the western New town, — Stuart-
street. This is a magnificent thoroughfare, worthy
to connect the opulent displays of Moray-place,
with displays scarcely if at all less rich, which we
shall find at its other extremity. Stuart-street ex-
pands at its middle and over half its length, into a
double crescent, called Ainslie-place ; the two arcs
of a circle being exactly opposite, and presenting
exquisitely symmetrical fronts. The south-west
end of Stuart-street passes into the middle of a very
deep and spacious crescent, or more properly a
semicircle, called Randolph's crescent, which has a
grandeur of character similar to Ainslie-place, with
a curious group of old trees before it.
On a line with the chord of Randolph's crescent,
Queensferry-street runs 230 yards south-east, to fall
there at an obtuse angle upon the west end of
Princes-street; and, on the same line, Lynedoeh-
place runs north-west toward Dean bridge, which
spans and overlooks the deep, beautiful, romantic
ravine of Leith water, and forms the great thorough-
fare with Perth and other places in the north by
way of Queensferry. Above the bridge, but quite
at the bottom of the deep ravine, are the mills and
village of Water of Leith, looking to be as distinct
a locality as if they were scores of miles from Edin-
burgh, a total contrast to all the magnificence of
architecture by which they are so nearly overhung.
Below the bridge, for a distance of 430 yards on the
right, and then also for some small distance on the
left, ranges of lofty symmetrical edifices — Randolph-
cliff, the rear of Moray-place, and the front of Dean-
terrace — surmount the rocky steeps of the ravine,
while these latter soar up from the shelving banks
of the river, in a manner of singular romance, — the
rear of Moray-place, in particular, " sustained on a
series of arches that give its hanging gardens an
altogether Babylonish aspect, whilst woods and
shrubberies and sloping lawns throw in everywhere
the brilliant and grateful varieties of the tint termed
green to relieve the perpetual rigidity of huge pre-
cipitous crags, cliffs, or buildings." On the west
side of the ravine, on and near the Queensferry
road, forming grand groups immediately beyond the
Dean bridge, are new fine ranges of private dwell-
ing-houses, and several very imposing public
buildings.
From the middle of the chord of Randolph's
crescent, to the intersection of Queensferry-street
with the head of Prince's-street, is the side of a
square of streets, which lies in the form of a lozenge,
with its angles to the four cardinal points, and
measures about 400 yards on each side. The streets
running north-east and south-west are Melville-
street, the most spacious,' — William -street, con-
tinued by Alva-street, — and Coates' crescent, con-
tinued by Maitland-street; and the streets which
intersect these, are Melville-place, continued by
Queensferry-street, Stafford-street, Walker-street,
and Manor-street. This part of the western New
town, though beautiful to a degree which would
challenge prime admiration anywhere but in Edin-
burgh, is markedly inferior to the part first noticed.
Its south-west side, however, previous to the rail-
way period, was wont to create a thrill of surprise
and delight in the breast of many a tourist, from its
being the grand thoroughfare to Glasgow and other
places in the west, and the first of the numerous
architectural displays of Edinburgh which strangers
arriving from these quarters used to see. This side
we noticed as formed of Coates' crescent and Mait-
land-street; but Coates' crescent, like Ainslie-
place, is double, one of the arcs being called Atholl
crescent. The area in each is tastefully adorned
with shrubbery; and, in one, has a row of stately
trees, which yields, like the line of edifice, to the
curve of the arc. Immediately behind Maitland-
street, and running parallel with it, is Rutland-
street, terminating in Rutland- square, — neither
the street nor the square remarkable for airiness,
but both of them very neatly edificed, and perfectly
symmetrical. South-westward of the crescents, and
on a line with their chord, are Atholl-place, and, in
continuation of it, West Maitland-street; and going
off from these at acute angles eastward, are the
parallel streets, Torphichen-street and Morrison-
street, which connect the western New town with
the suburb of the Old town south-west of the
Castle.
The eastern New town, owing partly to the
nature of the ground on which much of it stands,
but chiefly to the various dates and conflicting plans
of its erection, will not be so easy of description as
the other sections. Along its entire western limit
it is strictly compact with the northern and the
southern New towns, being divided from the former
simply by the roadway of Scotland-street and Dub-
lin-street, and from the latter by the roadway of St.
Andrew's-street. In its extreme north it is narrow,
and commences at Canonmills. There stands
Bellevue-crescent, with its back to the back of Scot-
land-street, and formed on a plan of neat uniformity
and considerable elegance, with the fine facade and
spire of St. Mary's church in its centre. But only
the southern half of it has been built ; and this is
prolonged southward by Mansfield-place, a range
of edifices of similar character and extent to itself.
Claremont-street, chiefly a one-sided range, very
neat, with good scope of view both in front and in
rear, runs away 250 yards north-eastward, opposite
St. Mary's church, and expands into the handsome
semicircle of Claremont-crescent, — only half of
which, however, is edificed. From the south end
of Mansfield-place, Broughton-street — a spacious
and pleasingly edificed thoroughfare, but irregular
in its plan and sufficiently plain in some of its build-
ings— runs in a direction to the east of south, till it
falls, at an obtuse angle, on Catherine-street, or the
line of Leith-walk. Broughton-street, previous to
the railway period, was the grand thoroughfare to
Fife, Dundee, and other places in the north, by way
of the Newhaven ferry. From its west side go
off London-street, to Drummond-place, on a line
with Great King-street, — Barony-street, on a line
with Northumberland-street, — Albany-street, on a
line with Abercromby-place, — and York-place, on a
line with Queen-street, — thus forming a junction
or compact union with the northern and southern
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521
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New towns. London-street is in a style of elegance
akin to the street with which it communicates;
Albany-street is neat and uniform; and York-place
is a spacious and pleasing thoroughfare, not a little
adorned by the beautiful turrets and architectural
carvings of St. Paul's episcopal chapel. From the
east side of Broughton-street go off Broughton-place,
opposite the exit of Barony-street, — Forth-street,
opposite the exit of Albany-street, — and Picardy-
place, opposite the exit of York-place. All these
are airy, well-built, two-sided, modern streets.
Between York-place and the line of Prince's-
streot, lanes and little streets and an area called a
square, are huddled together in a style of grotesque
confusion, which — apart from superiority in archi-
tecture— has no parallel in even the most sinuous
nook of the Old town. What adds to the effect pro-
duced— the feeling of surprise at the utter contrast
exhibited to the spaciousness and regularity of the
street arrangements in the other sections of the
New town — is that most of this cluster occupies the
rounded and declivitous brow of the northern longi-
tudinal hill of Edinburgh. From the middle of
York-place, a narrow street called Elder-street,
enters the section we are describing, and after a
progress of 170 yards up the face of an acclivity,
terminates with a bend at the small area of St.
James'-square, on the summit of the hill ; and from
this area two narrow streets descend on rapidly in-
clined planes, — one to fall at right angles on the
south-eastern termination of Broughton-street, and
the other to fall at right angles on the head of
Leith-street, a few yards east of the north end of
the North bridge. As St. James'-square, and the
lanes and little streets sloping down from it were
built, not upon a public plan but upon a private one
of the proprietor of the site, they consist of loftier
and less ornate houses than other parts of the New
town; and, owing to their position, they present to
a spectator, at a little distance, the appearance of
successive ridges of building, towering aloft one
above another, like the seats of a theatre. Though
much more akin in character to the Old town than
the New, they possess the property of impressing a
stranger who approaches Edinburgh from Leith
with ideas of tbe aspiring architecture and wonder-
ful aspect of the city.
At the south end of St. Andrew's-street we are
again in Prince's-street, a continuation of which
thence to the North bridge, properly belongs to the
eastern New town. Prince's-street is here built on
both sides; and has thoroughly — more so, indeed,
than any other part of Edinburgh- — an aspect of
business. Here are as many spacious shops, and
bustling coach-offices, and noisy inns, and multiform
appliances of stir and traffic, as can well be crowded
into the limited space. So great is the bustle in the
constant arrival or starting of stage-coaches, in the
rush of carriages and cabs and omnibuses, and in the
broad current of pedestrians pouring over this cen-
tral point of intercommunication of streets, that one
is forcibly reminded here, at least — if nowhere else
in Edinburgh — of the Trongate and Argyle-street of
Glasgow, — and faintly even of Cheapside, or Lud-
gatehill, or Fleet-street of London. — Near the north-
east angle of the North Bridge stood the Theatre
royal, within a confined dingy area called Shake-
speare-square, swept away in 1859-61 to give place
to the new General Post-Office. Opening out by a
curve from the space before the Post- Office is Leith-
street, which_ goes away north-eastward, descending
a slope, and is continued in the same direction by
Catherine-street, till the latter forms an obtuse angle
with Broughton-street. Leith-street presents a me-
dium appearance of architecture between the Old
town and the New, — more akin, however, to tho
former than the latter; and it has, on its north side,
what is called a terrace, a story of building abutted
or projecting from the line of the upper stories, and
having a pathway along its summit. At the foot of
Leith-street, where it has descended to the hollow,
and where it receives the communication from be-
neath Regent-bridge with Leith-wynd and North
back of Canongate, a narrow street or lane, called
Calton-hill, goes off and climbs the steep side of
the eminence whence it has its name, till, at an
acute angle, it merges contiguous to the flight of
steps by which ascent is made to the site of Nelson's
monument. Catherine-street is similar in appear-
ance to Leith-street; the houses high, and plain in
architecture.
At the foot of Catherine-street, the thoroughfare
which it and Leith-street had formed from Prince's-
street, becomes considerably widened and very
spacious, shoots off in a direction a little more to the
east, and henceforth, till it passes into Leith, at a
distance of nearly 2 miles, is nearly as straight, and
in some respects, almost as picturesque as Princes-
street. From the foot of Catherine-street, as well as
farther on, this thoroughfare is properly Leith- walk;
but, for a considerable space, it has subordinate
names, each of which applies to a portion of only
one side. On the north side it is called successively
Union-place, Antigua-street, Gaytield-place, and
Haddington-place; on the south side it is called
Greenside-street, Greenside-place, Baxter's-plaee,
and Elm-row; and then, losing most of its town
character, and becoming a debatable ground between
the metropolis and its port, it is quietly allowed, ex-
cept at its edificed intervals, to pass under its proper
name of Leith-walk. Over all the so-called streets
and places wdiich we have mentioned it is of pleas-
ing though not superb appearance, and is romanti-
cally overhung by the rapid northern slope of
Calton-hill, covered with verdure, terraced with
promenades, and surmounted by its gorgeous archi-
tectural structures. Elm-row is an elegant line of
uniform buildings; and opposite to it is the deep
recess or open area of Gay-field square, not unpleas-
ing in its aspect. From the south-west end of Elm-
row a beautiful and spacious line of street, called
Leopold-place, opens eastward, expands for a while
into the fine form of Hillside- crescent, and stretches
away eastward along the north base of Calton-hill,
forming one of two grand thorougfares to the east
coast of England, by way of Haddington and Ber-
wick-upon-Tweed. From the north-east end of
Elm-row goes off Montgomery-street, parallel with
Leopold-place, to which it sends the cross-communi-
cations of Windsor-street and Brunswick-street.
Nearly opposite the exit of Montgomery-street,
Annandale-street goes off to the north-west, and
bends round into the beautiful figure of Hope-
crescent, facing Leith-walk.
Returning to the area, at the end of North Bridge,
or in front of the new Post-Office, we find a grand
continuation of Prince's-street, far surpassing it in
the opulent architecture of its edifices, leading off
in a straight line with it, and along a complete
though artificially-formed level, to a point about a
third or a half-way up the ascent of Calton-hill.
This is called Waterloo-place. For about 50 feet in
its centre it is lined by ornamental pillars and arches
surmounting the ledges of Regent-bridge, which
carries it across the gorge at the base of Calton-hill ;
and, in general, it consists of superbly-finished
houses of four stories, which, toward Prince's-street,
have a pediment and pillars above the lower story.
On the north side of Waterloo-place, is a large tene-
ment, built at an expense of £30,000, and long used
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522
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as a hotel; on its south side are the Inland revenue
office and the old Post-office ; and though these
edifices are in the best style of Grecian architecture,
they no more than symbolize with the other struc-
tures of the street. At nearly 300 yards distance
from Prince's-street, AVaterloo-place runs against a
shoulder or projection on the side of Calton-hill, and
debouches to the south-east. At the point of con-
tact with the bulky obstacle, it sends up, from its
north side, an airy flight of steps, by which the level
of the far-seeing promenades of Calton-hill, and the
esplanade of the paths which lead up to its summit,
are attained. While Waterloo-place, or rather the
spacious road-way, called Regent-road, in continua-
tion of it, is making its debouch, it is winged on its
south side by the gaol and bridewell, — of very pic-
turesque appearance, and romantically seated on a
cliff, which overhangs part of the Old town. Re-
gent-road again and a third time debouches, running
along the side of Calton-hill, and forming an esplan-
ade or shelf in its declivity; and after passing the
Royal High school on the north, and the Low Calton
burying-ground on the south, slopes gently away to
the north-east, becomes lined with good modern
buildings, under the name of Norton-place, forms a
junction about 230 yards from the eastern base of
Calton-hill, with the great thoroughfare to London,
leading off in Leopold-place from Leith-walk, and
thence stretches away by Comely-green and St.
Margaret's, to Pierhill barracks and Portobello.
Just after passing the Royal High school, Regent-
road sends off at an acute angle on its northern side,
a communication round the eastern face of Calton-
hill, with the upper parts of Leith-walk. This, like
the road itself, is an esplanade or shelf on the face
of the hill, and is lined on the higher side with a row
of superb and uniform houses, which command much
of the brilliant prospect seen from the more elevated
promenades, and which, under the names of Kegent-
terrace, Carlton-terrace, and Royal-terrace, sweep
round the hill, over a distance of about 1,000
yards, describing the figure of the orbit of a comet
when approaching and leaving its perihelion; and
at its west end, Royal-terrace sends down a com-
munication with Leopold-place and Leith-walk.
Holyrood.
In the preceding description of the street arrange-
ments of Edinburgh, we began at the area in front
of Holyrood, and have gone over all the hills and
valleys of the city. Such a maze of architecture, so
intricate, so diversified, piled so romantically upon
every available spot of ground, and yet spread out
so beautifully in every form of symmetry, nowhere
else exists in the world. And after considering it
as we have done, we feel curious to know what was
the condition of its site, two thousand years ago,
when the Caledonian Ottadini were its masters, long
before Holyrood was built, and what were the cir-
cumstances which changed its character, and made
it royal.
The Origin of Holyrood. — The ravines and hill-
skirts were then in all their natural ruggedness;
the old North loch filled all the valley between the
Old town and the New; some rude earth- works
stood on the crown of the Castle-hill ; a few savages,
almost naked and of brutal aspect, burrowed among
the earth-works; and a native forest, shaggy and
silent, or tenanted only by wild beasts, and forming
fiart of a sylvan wilderness many scores of miles
ong, spread over most of the hills and most of
Arthur's-Seat, holding possession of all the soil, and
leaving nothing to view but patches of rock and
water. The Homans came and departed; the Picts
and the Romanised Britons chased one another in
frequent conflict over the ground; the Northumbrian
Princes took root, and gave the place its name ol
Edwin's- Burgh; the Scots, from Dalriada, acquired
mastery over ali the land ; and even the Scoto-Saxon
dynasty became established and famous; and still
Holyrood was not yet in embryo. But at length
arose David L, a prominent ancestor of the present
Sovereign, but widely different from her in character
— fond of hunting and display, a slave of supersti-
tion, and a " sair saunt for the croon o' Scotland "
by lavish expenditure of the royal revenues in the
endowing of monasteries ; and he took a fancy to the
forest of the Edwin's-Burgh hills as a convenient
hunting-ground, and founded on the most meadowy
part of it, an edifice for monks and mummery. The
earth-works on the Castle-hill had then become
transmuted into a citadel; a collection of thatched
houses had been built contiguous to the citadel, un-
der protection of its walls; and the King had some-
times occasions of state to lodge in the fort, and then
found it pleasant to riot at will, in the day time,
among the umbrageous heights and hollows of
what is now the Queen's park. Where could he
more excitedly pursue the chase than through the
waving woods, over the dells and crags of Arthur's
Seat? or where more refreshingly draw breath and
tell his beads, than beside the bubbling fountains
in the adjacent meadows? And a story is told, that,
once on Rood-day, the festival of the Exaltation of
the Cross, he rode, with hunter's haste, from the
Castle, and dashed headlong into the forest, — that,
in the hollow, near the north end of Salisbury-crags,
when separated from all his followers, he came sud-
denly upon a giant hart of terrible aspect, and with
mighty antlers, — that he was assailed by the
creature, unhorsed, and driven to desperate defence
— that in mortal extremity, with no more powei
against the antlers than if all his anus and arts had
been idle straws, a " haly rude," or holy cross, eamo
miraculously into his hand, composed of such unique
material that no man could ever ■' schaw qwhat it
was, metal or tre," — that one flourish of this super-
natural weapon made the hart vanish, — and that
in gratitude for his deliverance, and in ever-
lasting honour of the " haly rude," he founded on
the spot a magnificent religious edifice. But all
this story is a fable, invented several years after
the monarch's death ; and probably had never an
atom of sanction beyond some circumstance con-
nected with the festival of the " haly rude." The
edifice, however, had all the magnitude and pomp
of a first-class abbey; and was designed, not in any
degree as a royal residence, but entirely as a house
for a fraternity of the order of monks, called Canons-
regular. And as to the date of its foundation, old
Wyntoun records in his " Cronykill," that —
" Ae thowsand ae hunciyr and twenty-yhere,
And awcht to thai to rekyne clere,
Fowndyd wes the Halyrwd Hows,
Frae thine to be relygyws."
Tlie Abbey of Holyrood. — The abbey soon became
one of the richest and most splendid monastic estab-
lishments in the kingdom; and, like every other,
it contained apartments for hospitably lodging both
poor and wealthy wayfarers; and, more than any
other, it was visited by the noble and the royal of
the kingdom. That was a time when mitred abbots
were more than a match for civil grandees, and
sometimes dared to measure their strength with
kings ; and the situation of Holyrood, in the vicinity
of one of the strongest military posts in Scotland,
where the royal court had increasingly frequent oc-
casion to sojourn, caused its hospitality to be often
welcome to Scotland's kings. Parliaments of Ro-
bert Bruce and Edward Baliol were held in it;
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523
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James I. and his Queen loved it better than any of
their own palaces; James II. put it into close prox-
imity to the throne, by constituting Edinburgh the
national metropolis; James III. resided in it for
lengthened periods; and most of the other kings
and great nobles, down to the sixteenth century,
made it transient visits. Its original accommodations
were soon found to be too small, and were from time
to time extended and adorned; and in the reign of
James V., they seem to have been formally appropri-
ated by the royal family; so that at length the old
abbey became a subordinate pile, and the successive
adjunctions to it assumed the form of a massive
royal palace. The church of the abbey is the only
part of the monastic pile still standing. It was
large and magnificent, in the most ornate fashion of
Gothic architecture, with tower and buttresses,
mullioned window, and sculptured pillars, mould-
ings, niches, tracery, and most other features of
elaborate art. The first reformers converted it into
a parish church; the English, under the Earl of
Hertford, in 1543, burned and desolated it; Charles
II. restored it and made it a chapel royal; and a
mob, at the Revolution, in revenge of James VII.
having used it as a mass-house, unroofed and gutted
it, and left it permanently a ruin. It is now a place
of tombs and desolation, of silence and sadness, but
still possesses interest for containing the dust of
many members of the royal line, and for standing
picturesquely up as an adjunct to the palace. Ex-
terior views of it on the north or east with a large
breadth of it before the eye, and its intricate out-
line well defined, are full of character; and an in-
terior view, under a cloudy sky, or especially in
moonlight, is solemnly impressive.
The Palace of Holyrood. — The group of edifices
which constituted the original palace of Holyrood
was destroyed by the English at the time when they
destroyed the abbey. But very soon after it was
restored and greatly enlarged; and the palace of
that time was much more extensive than the present
pile, and contained not fewer than five courts, and
was altogether a place of imposing magnitude and
dazzling splendour. One court occupied much of
the area between the present palace and the foot of
C'anongate, and had at its north-west corner a strong
gate, with Gothic pillars, arches, and towers; and
the second and third courts were nearly coincident
with the present quadrangle; while the fourth and
fifth were of small size, and situated to the south.
But the most noticeable part of the pile is a part
still standing, and in complete repair, forming the
north wing of the present main front, and flanked
with plain, low, conical-roofed circular towers.
Here resided Mary, the most beautiful and mournful
of all the monarchs of Scotland ; and here are
shown her apartments, with the furniture she used
and the embroidery she worked, all so venerated
that a special order was given by the present
Sovereign to leave them undisturbed; and here,
when the youthful Queen had just been whirled
into the torrent of her life-long course of sorrow, and
was far gone in pregnancy of the babe James VI.,
occurred one of the direst tragedies which ever
horrified royal eyes, the assassination of her secretary
Eizzio.
" It was an eve of raw and surly mood.
And in a turret-chamber high of ancient Holyrood
Sat Mary, listening to the rain, and sighing with the winds.
That seemed to suit the stormy state of men's uncertain minds.
She thought of all her blighted hopes, and dreams of youth's
bright day.
And summoned Rizzio with his lute, and bade the minstrel play,
But hark! the tramp of armed men! the Douglas battle-cry!
They come, they come, and lo 1 the scowl of Ruthven's hollow
evol
The rutlian steel is in his heart, the faithful Itizzio's slain
And swords are drawn, mid daggers gleam, and tears and words
are vain.
Then Mary Stuart brushed aside the tears that trickling fell
1 Now for iny father's arm 1 ' she cried, ' niy woman's heart fare-
well!'"
One remarkable appendage to the palace in Mary's
reign, and earlier, was a lion's den, a small embel-
lished enclosure adjoining one of the windows; and
another was a superb suite of gardens, extending
about a mile or more to a sheet of water in the
vicinity of Restalrig. The royal demesne, compris-
ing all Arthur's Seat and Salisbury -crags, and
a great expanse of the low lands around them, from
the skirts of the burgh and of the Calton-hill away
to Duddingston, all that is at present a pastoral
surface, without one scratch of cultivation, and al-
most as naked of wood as a desert — was then a
fairy field of romance and beauty, a labyrinth of
crags, hanging shrubberies, and outspread parterres,
and sent up its mountain summits, like watch-towers
from the bosom of Eden, to carry the eye round a
panorama of the most glorious landscapes, stretching
away in a world of wonders to the far-distant filmy
horizon. But, in the time of Cromwell, the plough-
share of ruin passed over this lovely tract, and even
overturned the greater part of the palace's own mas-
sive masonry. The main part of the present edifice,
originally of very plain appearance, was built by
Charles II ; a facing of the south and east fronts
with polished stone, and an enclosure with grand
iron palisade, were added in 1826 ; extensive reno-
vations of the state apartments were done in pre-
paration for the visits of Queen Victoria; and clear-
ances of an adjacent collection of old houses, toge-
ther with a great extension of the enclosure, were
made in more recent years. The entire pile forms a
hollow quadrangle, or consists of four sides, with an
open enclosed court. The north side stands partly in
juxtaposition with the ruin of the abbey-church, and
acquires from it a grand and venerable appearance;
the east and south sides are neat, plain, many-win-
dowed masses of uniform elevation ; and the west side
consists of two projecting wings and a centre — each
wing as high as the rest of the pile, and flanked by
circular cone-capped turrets, and the centre a story
lower, pierced with the grand entrance, and sur-
mounted by a gigantic crown. And over the
grand entrance is a great sculpture of the royal arms ;
and beside the crown rises the flag-staff which, when
the Queen is present, holds the royal standard flut-
tering in the breeze.
The situation of Holyrood is bad. The palace
stands on low ground, below the meeting of the Cal-
ton and Cowgate ravines, amid all the Old town's
natural drainage ; and its main entrance is only
about a hundred yards from the dingy and malodor-
ous tail of the Canongate. But in recent years, on
to 1862, improvements have been made, to remove
unsightliness and create amenities. One feature of
these is a range of offices in the castellated style,
along the north side of the palace yard ; and an-
other is a sculptured octagonal fountain, in the centre
of the yard, in the renaissance style of the 16th cen-
tury, 35 feet high, in three tiers, with profusion of
quaint figures and statuettes. The chief rural views
from the palace windows are on the east side, where the
Queen's apartments are situated; and these comprise
the review grounds of the Queen's park, and the
rolling northern declivities of Arthur's Seat, and are
pleasant and considerably picturesque ; yet they
have not at all a " royal" character, and are inex-
pressibly poorer than thousands of views from most
of the higher situations about Edinburgh. Holy-
rood itself, however, is a fine feature of a general
landscape; and as seen in the hollow from the
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Calton-hill, across the antique architectural masses
of the Canongate, with the wild crags of the moun-
tain on the back ground, it strongly strikes a re-
flecting observer, and fires him with a passion for
the lessons and wonders of the olden time. These
naked precipices behind it too, are an amazing ob-
ject, and very distinctly tell a geologist about awful
convulsions of the earth at this place in ancient epochs
of creation, and how the liquid lava here swelled up
through crevices in the heaving rocks, and dispread
itself into a cap of whinstone over formations which
had long before been deposited by water.
Since the days of Queen Mary, Holyrood has been
but slightly and fitfully inhabited by royal person-
ages. James VII. before he got to the throne, and
was only Duke of York, resided in it, and made it
odious with his bigotry ; and he had such a habit of
pacing up and down the meadow on the east, that
the public have ever since called that place the
Duke's walk. Prince Charles Edward, in the re-
bellion of 1745, kept house and revelry in Holyrood
during the few weeks of his holding military posses-
sion of Edinburgh; and the Duke of Cumberland,
after chasing him to the north, occupied the same
apartment and the same bed. Charles X. of France
both at the Revolution of the first republic in 1795,
and at that of his own dethronement in 1830, took
up his abode as an exile in Holyrood. George IV.
in 1822, and Queen Victoria in 1842, gladdened the
halls of Holyrood with royal ceremonial; and the
Queen and her family have spent two nights in it,
in each of most years since 1850, on their way to
and from Balmoral. The enthusiasm of Edinburgh,
on each of these occasions, has been great to wel-
come their visit, and to woo them to come again, —
mighty multitudes, well-dressed and joyous, all in
the spirit of a holiday, standing amassed along the
whole route from St. Margaret's to Holyrood, as
well as on the nearest adjacent vantage-grounds, to
greet them with shouts of loyalty, and make their
progress through the park an imperial ovation.
The Park of Holyrood. — The present park or
royal domain of Holyrood extends southward to the
vicinity of Newington, south-eastward to Dudding-
ston loch, and eastward to the vicinity of Jock's
Lodge, and comprises a circuit of nearly five miles.
Its chief parts are Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Crags,
a small expanse of somewhat level ground to tlie
north of these, and a narrow, curving, romantic
valley, flanked on the west by St. Leonard's hill,
between Salisbury Crags and the Old town. It is
entirely pastoral, and owes most of its attractions
to natural contour and grassy sward. G reat improve-
ments were made upon it in 1844, — draining a large
marsh at the north end of the valley, smoothening
the level ground in the vicinity of the palace, re-
moving boulders, destroying unsightlinesses, en-
riching the sward, and especially forming a grand
carriage-drive round the extremity, or nearly so,
of the whole park. This drive traverses the low
ground on the north and the valley on the west,
and there commands a series of rich close views, or
at least views comparatively close, comprising the
eastern outskirts of the city, Holyrood itself, the
Calton-hill, some parts of the Old town, and the
grandest precipices of the Crags and of Arthur's
Seat; but it ascends a shoulder of the mountain on
the south, climbs gently above the basaltic cliffs of
Samson's ribs, and curves upon the mountain's
sides and slopes around all the east, so as to com-
mand distant gorgeous views athwart Edinburgh-
shire, Haddingtonshire, the frith of Forth and Fife-
shire, away to the Pentlands, the Lammermoors,
the Bass, the Lomonds, the Ochills, and the Gram-
pians,— many of the views entirely different from
any which can be seen in grouping with Edinburgh,
and the rest under totally different combinations.
This drive is open to the public, without the inter-
vention of any toll ; the whole park also is always
open to pedestrians; a part of the level ground on
the north is ever available for athletic games ; and
a secluded part below St. Anthony's well is marked
off as a washing and bleaching-green for the poor.
Nothing could be less like a royal domain, as to
either decoration or exclusiveness. Nothing could
be more like a well kept place of privilege for the
people. Nor is the perfectly free access to it for a
moment interrupted or limited during the yearly
hours of the Queen's presence. The palace itself,
too, has of late been thrown open to gratuitous ex-
hibition on every Saturday, and for a small fixed
fee on every other lawful day.
The rangership of the park of Holyrood was
obtained by charter, for himself and his heirs, by
Sir James Hamilton, in the 17th century, from
Charles I., as a security for a large sum advanced
to him in his necessities during the civil war ; but it
was repurchased by the Crown, in February 1844,
from the Earl of Haddington, the descendant of Sir
James Hamilton, for £30,674. The precincts of the
abbey, extending from the foot of the Canongate to
th ■ limits of the park, were anciently a sanctuary
for criminals, and are still a sanctuary for debtors.
This privilege seems to have arisen from the follow-
ing clause in David's charter: — "I strictly forbid
all persons from taking a poind [distraint] or making
a seizure, in or upon the lands of the said Holy
Cross, unless the abbot refuse to do justice to the
person injured." Any refugee to the abbey precincts
was thus secure, if the abbot chose to protect him;
for what temporal judge would dare to accuse the
holy abbot of injustice? Refugees from creditors in
modern times are secure from arrest for twenty-four
hours, simply by entering the territory, and are
afterwards secure indefinitely by obtaining a " pro-
tection " from the local bailie; but, except on Sab-
bath, they require always to remain strictly within
the precincts. They are ironically called " abbey
lairds," — and have long been so called, for the name
occurs in a pretty old comic song entitled "the
Cock-laird." But legal alterations have rendered
" the privilege of sanctuary," to a certain extent,
unnecessary; and most of the houses in which " the
lairds " found residence have been removed.
Tlie Castle.
The Castle Rock. — Edinburgh Castle — meaning
thereby the artificial fortress, as distinguished from
the hill — occupies an area of about six imperial
acres. The rock on which it stands is columnar
trap, of the variety called basaltic clinkstone. Its
mineral constituents are principally lamellar felspar
and titan iron, with very little augite. It presents
a striking specimen of an erupted mass, soaring
steeply up, and comparatively little weathered.
The northern, western, and southern sides are pre-
cipitous,— in some places almost perpendicular ; and
the highest part rises nearly 300 feet above the vale
below, and 383 feet above the level of the sea. The
northern skirts, at least in their eastern parts, un-
dulate down in grassy pleasure-grounds to the West
Prince's-street gardens ; the western skirts go down
in bare rock almost sheer to the valley ; and the
southern skirts have been profusely altered by art
in connexion with the improvements of the New
Western approach. On some parts of the shoulders
of the slopes, beyond the present ramparts, are
vestiges of former fortifications. In the sloping
pleasure-ground on the north, in particular, is a
curiously sculptured stone, in an upright position;
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and .1 walk there is carried through the subterrane-
ous remains of some old outworks. On the face of
the precipice, on the north side, also, is perched a
fragment, called Wallace's cradle, while at the base
is an old ruin called Wallace's tower, — the name
Wallace, in both instances, being a corruption of
Well-house.
The Castle-JSsplanade. — The east side of the Castle
is continuous with the central wedge- like hill of the
city; and the slope from it commences with the
same easy inclination which prevails over every
successive part of the hill, all the way to its foot
at Holyrood. The rock of the hill, except at and
near the Castle, is principally sandstone, with red
and blue slate-clay, the strata inclining toward the
trap in its immediate vicinity, but dipping away
from it elsewhere. An esplanade, measuring about
100 yards by about 120, intervenes between the en-
trance of the Castle and the head of Castle-street or
High-street. This esplanade is entirely open, has
parapet walls along the sides, overlooks the romantic
masses of the south-western part of the Old town, com-
mands most magnificent views of the New town
and of the country beyond, and is Used both as a
parade-ground for the military and as a promenade for
the citizens. In 1850, during the progress of deep
excavations in the part of the esplanade nearest the
city, there were discovered remains of successive
periods, down to the times of the first rude village
which was built around the primitive ramparts of
the Castle. First were coins of the early mintage
of George III.; next were vestiges of an outer for-
tress, or of the city- wall, destroyed in the 16th
century; next was a stratum of moss containing a
well-preserved coin of the Lower Empire; and
finally, below the moss, at the depth of more than
twenty feet from the present surface, were sepulchral
relics, indicating a burying-ground of apparently not
later date than the eighth or ninth century. Even
some of the extant buildings of the city contiguous
to the esplanade are curious objects to the antiquary ;
and a much greater mass of them, still more curious,
stood both there and a little further down only a
few years ago, but were removed to make room for
the new water reservoir, Short's observatory, the
Free church college, the Assembly hall, and the
New western approach. One of the removed build-
ings was a squalid tenement, originally occupied as
a palace by Mary of Guise, widow of James V., and
Queen Regent of Scotland from 1554 to her death
in 1560.
The Castle Buildings. — On the western verge of
the esplanade is advanced the outer pallisadoed
barrier of the fort. Behind this are a dry ditch and
a. drawbridge, flanked by low batteries. Within
these the road wends past a guard-house, and passes
under an arched gateway, secured by strong gates,
andbearingaloftan edifice which was used as a state-
prison. On the right, after passing the gateway, is
the Argyle battery, mounted with 10 guns of 12 and
18 pounders, which are pointed toward the New
town, and from which, in general, the salutes are
fired. The road thence leads past the arsenal, which
is capable of containing 30,000 stands of arms, and
exhibits a display of trophies and military stores
curiously arranged, and highly attractive to a
stranger who has looked little on the muniments of
war, — the houses of the governor and other func-
tionaries, which are of plain appearance, — and a
huge pile of buildings, called the New barracks,
built in 1796, three stories in front but four in the
rear, resting there upon piazzas, and so grossly dis-
figuring the outline of the Castle as to appear, even
at a considerable distance, like a large factory sit-
ting on the brink of a precipice. The road sweeps
past these buildings in a curve, and during its pro-
gress is climbing an ascent; and it now, through a
second strong gateway, enters the inner and higher
vallum of the fort.
Within are the ancient erections of the Castle, and
nearly all its most interesting objects. On the south
side is a lofty pile of buildings with a court in the
centre. The south-east portion of this pile was
partly built in 1565 by Queen Mary as a palace, and
contains, on the ground-floor, a small apartment in
Which she was delivered of James VI. In the same
buildings is the croWn-room, in which the regalia of
Scotland are exposed three hours a-day to the view
of visitors who have been furnished at "the Royal ex-
change with gratuitous tickets of admission. The
regalia were lodged here on the 26th of March, 1707,
immediately after the act of Union, and were long
supposed to have been secretly conveyed to London ;
but, on the 5th of February, 1818, were discovered
by commissioners appointed by the Prince-Regent,
carefully and even elaborately secured in a large
oaken chest. They consist of the crown, the sceptre,
the sword of state, and the lord-treasurer's rod oi
office ; and are placed on a table, surrounded from
ceiling to floor with a barred cage, and made visible
by gas-lights. In the crown-room are also a ruby
ring, set round with diamonds worn by Charles 1.,
at his Scottish coronation, — the golden collar of the
order of the Garter, sent by Elizabeth to James IV.,
— and the badge of the order of the Thistle, set with
diamonds, and bequeathed by Cardinal York to
George IV.
On the east side of the Castle, immediately north
of the square court, is the half-moon battery,
mounted with 14 guns, overlooking the Old town,
and entirely commanding the access along Castle-
street and the Castle-hill. On this battery are a
flag-staff, behind which King George IV. and
Queen Victoria surveyed the city; and a very deep
draw-well, the water of Which fails when the guns
are fired. Farther to the north, and overlooking
the Argyle battery, is the bomb-battery, the highest
point of the rock, whence a magnificent view is ob-
tained of the gorgeous and far-spreading panorama
hung out on all sides toward the distant horizon.
On the bomb-battery was placed in March, 1829,
the celebrated piece of ordnance called Mons Meg,
of 20 inches of the bore, — composed of long pieces
of beat iron which are held together by a close
series of iron hoops, — employed in 1497 by James
IV., at the siege of Norham castle on the English
border,-^rent, in 1682, when firing a salute to
James, Duke of York, — and bearing on both sides
of its elegant frame an inscription which supposes
it to have been forged in 1486 at Mons. Behind the
bomb-battery stands the small Norman chapel of
Queen Margaret, the most ancient extant building in
Edinburgh. — The Castle, except on the east side, is
exceedingly ill-adapted for the purposes of a fort, and
presents an outline either of high houses or walls or
points of rock having little capacity for gunnery ;
the fortifications corresponding with none of the
rules of art, but accommodating their form and their
uses to the irregular sweep of the rock on which
they stand. The garrison has a non-resident gover-
nor, a deputy-governor, a fort-major, a store-keeper,
a master-gunner, and two chaplains, the one presby-
terian and the other episcopalian.
JExtinct Castle Buildings. — The appearance of the
Castle, both inside and out, was formerly much
different from what it is at present. Its condition in
1572, for example, is well described as follows in the
Memoirs of Kirkaldy of Grange: — " On the highest
part of the rock stood, and yet stands, the square
tower where Mary of Guise died, James VI. was
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born, and where the regalia have been kept for ages.
On the north, a massive pile called David's tower,
built by the second monarch of that name, and con-
taining a spacious hall, rose to the height of more
than forty feet above the precipice, which threw its
shadows on the loch 200 feet below. Another,
named from Wallace, stood nearer to the city; and
where now the formidable half-moon rears up its
time-worn front, two high embattled walls, bristling
with double tiers of ordnance, flanked on the north
by the round tower of the Constable, fifty feet high,
and on the south by a square gigantic peel, opposed
their faces to the city. The soldiers of the garrison
occupied the peel, the foundations of which are yet
visible. Beljw it lay the entrance, with its port-
cullis and gates, to which a flight of forty steps as-
cended. The other towers were St. Margaret's,
closed by a ponderous gate of iron, the kitchen tower,
the larch-munition house, the armourer's forge, the
bake-house, brewery, and gun-house, at the gable of
which swung a sonorous copper bell, for calling the
watchers and alarming the garrison. Between the
fortress and the city a strong round rampart, called
the Spur, and another named the Well-house tower,
defended a narrow path which led to St. Cuthbert's
well. The Castle then contained a great hall, a
palace, the regalia, a church, and an oratory en-
dowed by St. Margaret, who five hundred years be-
fore, expired in a room which tradition still names
' the blessed Margaret's chamber.' "
The History of the Castle. — The historical events
of the Castle are so intimately blended with those
of the town, that they must be woven into one
tissue with them in the concluding section of this
article. Yet there is one historical event, which
may be introduced here, of too romantic a nature
not to be deeply interesting, and too full of incident
to- be afterwards incorporated with our necessarily
condensed narrative. And we shall give it as told
by Leitch Ritchie, with some poetical license in the
manner of telling it, though with strict accuracy as
to the substantial facts; and we shall merely pre-
mise that it illustrates well the remark which has
often been made, that those attacks upon fortresses
are not infrequently the most successful which are
made upon points where the attempt appears the
most desperate: —
In 1296. during the contest for the Crown between
Bruce and Baliol, the Castle was besieged and taken
by the English. It still remained in their posses-
sion in 1313, at which time it was strongly gar-
risoned and commanded by Piers Leland, a Lombard.
This governor having fallen under the suspicion of
the garrison, was thrown into a dungeon, and an-
other was appointed to the command, in whose
fidelity they had complete confidence. Randolph,
Earl of Moray, was one day surveying the gigantic
rock, and probably contemplating the possibility of
a successful assault upon the fortress, when he was
accosted by one of his men-at-arms with the ques-
tion, ' Do you think it impracticable, my lord ? '
Randolph turned his eyes upon the querist, a man
called William Frank, a little past the prime of life,
hut of a firm, well-knit figure, and bearing in his
bright eye, and bold and open brow, indications of an
intrepidity which had already made him remarkable
in the Scottish army. ' Do you mean the rock,
Frank ? ' said the Earl ; ' perhaps not, if we could
borrow the wings of our gallant hawks.' ' There are
wings,' replied Frank, with a thoughtful smile,
'as strong, as buoyant, and as daring. My father
was keeper of yonder fortress.' ' What of that ? you
speak in riddles.' 'I was then young, reckless,
high-hearted; I was mewed up in that convent-like
castle: my mistress was in the plain below — '
' Well, what then ? ' ' 'Sdeath, my lord ! can you not
imagine that I speak of the wings of love? Every
night I descended that steep at the witching hour,
and every morning before the dawn I crept back to
my barracks. I constructed a light twelve-foot
ladder, by means of which I was able to pass the
places that are perpendicular ; and so well, at length,
did I become acquainted with the route, that in the
darkest and stormiest night, I found my way as
easily as when the moonlight enabled me to see my
love in the distance, waiting for me at her cottage
door.' ' You are a daring, desperate, noble fellow,
Frank ! However, your motive is now gone ; your
mistress — ' 'She is dead: say no more; but an-
other has taken her place.' 'Ay, ay, it is the
soldier's way. Woman will die, or even grow old;
and what are we to do ? Come, who is your mis-
tress now?' ' My Country. What I have done for
love, I can do again for honour; and what I can
accomplish, you, noble Randolph, and many of our
comrades, can do far better. Give me thirty picked
men, and a twelve-foot ladder, and the fortress is
our own ! '
The Earl of Moray, whatever his real thoughts of
the enterprise might have been, was not the man to
refuse such a challenge. A ladder was provided,
and thirty men chosen from the troops ; and in the
middle of a dark night, the party, commanded by
Randolph himself, and guided by William Frank,
set forth on their desperate enterprise. By catching
at crag after crag, and digging their fingers into the
interstices of the rocks, they succeeded in mounting
a considerable way ; but the weather was now bo
thick, they could receive hut little assistance
from their eyes ; and thus they continued to climb,
almost in utter darkness, like men struggling up a
precipice in the nightmare. They at length reached
a shelving table of the cliff, above which the ascent,
for ten or twelve feet, was perpendicular; and hav-
ing fixed their ladder, the whole party lay down to
recover breath. From this place they could hear
the tread and voices of the ' check-watches ' or pat-
rol above; and surrounded by the perils of such a
moment, it is not wonderful that some illusions may
have mingled with their thoughts. They even
imagined that they were seen from the battlements;
although, being themselves unable to see the warders,
this was highly improbable. It became evident,
notwithstanding, from the words they caught here
and there, in the pauses of the night- wind, that the
conversation of the English soldiers above related
to a surprise of the Castle ; and at length these ap-
palling words broke like thunder on their ears:
' Stand ! I see you well ! ' A fragment of the rock
was hurled down at the same instant; and, as rush-
ing from crag to crag, it bounded over their heads,
Randolph and his brave followers, in this wild, help-
less, and extraordinary situation, felt the damp of
mortal terror gathering upon their brow, as they
clung, with a death-grip, to the precipice. The
startled echoes of the rock were at length silent,
and so were the voices above. The adventurers
paused, listening breathless; no sound was heard
but the sighing of the wind, and the measured tread
of the sentinel, who had resumed his walk. The
men thought they were in a dream, and no wonder;
for the incident just mentioned — which is related by
Barbour — was one of the most singular coincidences
that ever occurred. The shout of the sentinel, and
the missile he had thrown, were merely a boyish
freak ; and while listening to the echoes of the rock,
he had not the smallest idea that the sounds which
gave pleasure to him, earned terror, and almost
despair, into the hearts of the enemy. The adven-
turers, half uncertain whether they were not the vie-
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tuns of some illusion, determined that it was as safe to
go on as to turn back; and pursuing their laborious
ami dangerous path, they at length reached the
bottom of tho wall. This last barrier they scaled
by means of their ladder; and leaping down among
the astonished check-watches, they cried their war-
cry, and in the midst of answering shouts of ' trea-
son! treason!' notwithstanding the desperate re-
sistance of the garrison, captured the Castle of
Edinburgh.
Civil Edifices.
Some of the other public buildings of Edinburgh,
either singly or in groups, might almost challenge
as much attention as Holyrood or the Castle. All
the rest, however, for sake of necessary brevity, we
must notice more cursorily, and shall arrange into
classes. And these classes may be five, — the civil,
the educational, the charitable, the ecclesiastical,
and the extinct. Some of these classes, indeed,
particularly the charitable and the educational, will
be found to run considerably into each other, yet
not so much so as to cause any confusion. The
civil class, also — to which we devote the present
section — must be very miscellaneous, including
everything which cannot be more appropriately as-
signed to any of the other classes; but even thus, it
will be much better than any kind of chance-medley
collocation ; and we shall promote its clearness by
bringing edifices of similar kinds or similar uses,
such as banks, bridges, and monuments — and first
of all the remarkable old extant buildings of the
Canongate — into groups.
Canongate Buildings. — On the north side of the
Canongate, a brief distance from the foot, in a most
uninviting close, called Davidson's-land, is a squalid
singular-looking mass of houses, formerly occupied
as the White Horse Inn, long a principal inn of the
metropolis, and now the best representative of the
old Scottish inns in existence. Even Dr. Johnson
took house here on his arrival in Edinburgh, and be
got a speedy taste in it of some of those manners
which made him ever afterwards speak ill of Scot-
land.— A little further up on the opposite side of
the street, is Queensberry-house, a large plain build-
ing, erected by William, 1st Duke of Queensberry.
It was inhabited by him, by the 2d and the 3d
Dukes, and by the Duchess of the 3d, daughter of
Lord Clarendon, and cousin of Queen Mary and
Queen Anne. It was likewise at one time the
residence of the Duke of Douglas; and in 1747, the
celebrated Earl of Stair died in it. It is now used
as a house of refuge for the destitute. — Nearly op-
posite this, within a gate at the head of a close or
alley, is Whitefoord-house — a large modern mansion,
built by Sir John Whitefoord, and afterwards in-
habited by Dugald Stewart. — About half-way up
the Canongate, on the north side, is the Canongate-
tolbooth, — a dark, plain, antique building, sur-
mounted by a small spire. Fixed to the wall, at
the south-east corner, is the Canongate cross.
Farther up, on the south side of the street, is the
conspicuous mansion of Moray-house, the ancient
residence of the Earls of Moray, built, most proba-
bly, after the union of the Crowns. In front is a
massive stone- balcony, communicating with one of
the apartments and overlooking the street; and
from this balcony the Marquis of Argyle and his
family beheld the Marquis of Montrose conducted
ignominiously to prison, precurrent to his execution.
Moray-house was also the residence of Oliver Crom-
well, on occasion of his visit to Edinburgh in 1648;
and a garden behind it bears reminiscences of
Queen Mary, and of the negociations for the union
of the kingdoms. The mansion, after losing its
ancient grandeur, was successively a linen ware-
house, a banking ollice, a paper warehouse, a sugar-
refinery, and a temporary hospital; and now it is
occupied as the Normal school of the Free church. —
A little below Moray-house is an antique building,
said to have been a town residence of the Dukes of
Gordon. — At the head of the Netherbow, on tho
north side, is the house where John Knox resided
both in 1559 and 15G3, and where he wrote his
History of tho Reformation. It is an irregularly
shaped building in the Flemish style, with small
windows, small rooms, and an external stair; and
it has on the projecting angle some quaint sculpture,
whose chief figure represents Moses at the burning
bush. In 1849, this interesting memorial of the
great reformer was so shaken by age as to be con-
demned by the public authorities; but through
means of a spirited subscription, it was so thoroughly
repaired as to promise now to stand for centuries.
The Exchanges. — On the north side of High-street
is the Koyal exchange, commenced in 1753, and
finished in 1761 at an expense of £31,457. It is a
large and elegant square, with a court in the centre.
The south side, or that fronting the street, consists
of a range of ai chways, about 25 feet high, with a plat-
form on the top adorned with balusters and vases.
The archways are seven; and all, excepting the cen-
tral one, are built up and constructed into shops.
From the end of the archways, two wings extend
northward 131 feet till they touch the inner front,
or 182 feet till they reach the rear of the entire
edifice. The north side of the square extends 111
feet over wall, and is 51 feet broad. Fillars and
arches, supporting a platform, run along its front,
and form a piazza. In the centre, four Corinthian
pillars, whose bases rest upon the platform, support
a pediment on which are engraved the armorial-
bearings of the city. The building contains the
magistrates' court-room, the apartments of the town-
council, and various offices connected with the city,
and is ascended to its upper floors by a hanging
stair, the well of which is 20 feet square, and 60
feet deep. The court in the centre, including the
piazza, is 96 feet south and north, and 86 feet east
and west. The building is, in its south front, 60
feet high; but it stands on the slope of the hill, and
in its rear is 100 feet high.
On the south side of the Grassmarket, near the
west end, stands the Corn exchange, erected in
1849, at the cost of nearly £20,000. It was con-
structed after a design by Mr. Cousin, the city
architect. It is massive, elegant, and well suited
to its site. The doorway is in handsome Doric,
with two rustic columns; the windows are effectively
varied in design in all the three stories ; and the
mouldings are rich and imposing. The facade com-
prises a main front of 98 feet in breadth and 60 feet
in height, and two small wings, both receding about
13 feet and having stair-cases within, that on the
west being carried up as a bell and clock tower.
Only the vestibule of the exchange, however, is
connected with the facade. The main part for busi-
ness, in which the sample-bags of grain produce are
ranged in line for inspection, extends backward to
the distance of 152 feet, somewhat in the style of a
railway station. It is lighted entirely from the roof
by means of patent tile-glass; and the roofing is
lower than that of the vestibule, and has a triple
arrangement, being supported within the area by
two rows of metal pillars. — The old corn market
across the foot of Grassmarket is now disposed in
shops and warehouses.
Parliament Square. — Parliament close, the ori-
ginal of Parliament Square, comprised only a small
area on the south side of St. Giles' cathedral com-
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raunicating by narrow entries, past the ends of that
pile, with High-street and Lawnmarket. It was at
first a burying-ground, the most ancient in the city,
and afterwards a scene of the busiest traffic, sur-
rounded with irregular masses of heterogeneous
buildings, devoted variously to legislation, imprison-
ment, and trade. But now it is all a dignified recess,
occupied entirely round its east, south, and west
sides, by a splendid, uniform, modern range of
edifices, belonging severally to the Exchequer, the
Union Bank, the Justiciary Court, the Court of
Session, the Parliament house, and the libraries of
the advocates and the writers to the signet. The
square also includes now a considerable winged
extension opposite the east end of St. Giles', oc-
cupied along the east by the new police buildings,
and a still larger winged extension, comparatively
a very large one, sometimes called the County
square, opposite the west end of St. Giles', occupied
along the south by the main part of the law libraries,
and along the west by the County hall.
The police buildings are entered principally from
the High-street, but make as large a display on
their west side as on the south. They were erected
in 1849; they are of huge bulk, and were sufficiently
expensive; and, occupying so conspicuous a site,
they ought to have been eminently ornamental;
but they cannot be pronounced better than very
lumpishly neat. — The uniform range of facade
round the three sides of the quondam Parliament
close, partly belongs to recent buildings, and is
partly a new front to old ones. Its basement story
is 20 feet high, pierced with simicircular arches, so
as to form arcade-piazzas; its central part projects
several feet from the rest, and hears aloft six mas-
sive Doric columns, surmounted by a handsome
pediment ; its two retiring portions, instead of be-
ing angles, are curves; and these portions, together
with portions of the east side and of the west side,
exhibit columns and open galleries, uniform with
those of the portico, and supporting a continuous
cornice. — The court-room of the Court of Exchequer
is on the second story, lighted partly from the roof,
and of very moderate dimensions. — The apartments
of the Union bank are commodious and elegant. —
The buildings belonging to the Court of Session oc-
cupy large portions of both the south and the west
sides of the square, and at the same time extend
far back on the slope toward the Cowgate, having a
height of 40 feet in the front and of 60 feet in the
rear, a breadth of 60 feet at the narrowest part and
of 98 feet at the widest part, and a total length of
133 feet. The old parts of these buildings were be-
gun in 1631, and completed in 1640, at an expense
of £14,600; and their present front was erected
in 1808.
The large hall, formerly occupied by the parlia-
ment of Scotland, and now known as the outer
house of the court of session, is entered by a
plain door-way and dark lobby at the north-west
curve of the square. This hall is one of the noblest
apartments in the United Kingdom; and extends
122 feet in length, and 49 in breadth. It has a
beautiful oaken floor and roof, — the latter arched,
supported by abutments, and constructed in the
same style of open wood-work as the roof of West-
minister hall, %vith gilded knobs. The hall, be-
sides 4 windows on its west side, has, on its south
end, a large and beautiful window of stained glass,
on which is depicted a female figure of Justice, with
her sword and balance, amid radiated clouds. In
various parts of the hall, at the north end and on the
sides, are a statue by Chantrey, of the first Viscount
Melville, — one by Roubilliac, of Lord President
Forbes, — one by Steell, of Lord Jeffrey,— one by
Chantrey, of Lord President Blair, — and another by
Chantrey, of Lord Chief Baron of Exchequer, Ro-
bert Dundas of Amiston. The hall formerly con-
tained portraits of some of the sovereigns of Britain ;
and, on occasion of George IV.'s visit to Edinburgh,
was the scene of the banquet given to him by the
Corporation. In the days of the Scottish parlia-
ment, there stood, at the south end, beneath the
great window, a high throne for the sovereign ; along
the sides were seats for the bishops and nobility;
before these, were forms for the representatives of
counties and burghs; in the middle, was a long
table for the use of the Lord-clerk-register and his
assistants, and having spread out, on its upper end,
"the honours," or regalia; at the foot of the table,
was the bar of the house ; behind a wooden partition,
farther north, was a pulpit, whence sermons were
preached to parliament; and at the north end was a
small gallery for the accommodation of strangers.
All these appliances of the quondam parliament,
however, were long since swepc away, leaving the
hall nearly a quite unoccupied area, and a magnifi-
cent promenade. During sessions, it is a daily re-
sort of most gentlemen of the legal professions, and
a frequent resort of many persons of all classes; ex-
hibiting a scene of such bustle and apparent con-
fusion as is bewildering to a stranger. On the east
side of the hall, north and south of the entrance, are
recesses, with benches and a small projecting and
enclosed area, formerly used as courts of the lords
ordinary. Beneath the great window are entrances
to all the places now used for these courts, five of
which are held daily during session. Leading off
from the hall, on its east and west sides, are the
court-rooms of the first and the second division of the
court of session. These were fitted up respectively
in 1808 and 1818, and are of such inadequate
dimensions as frequently to be found annoyingly in-
commodious.
Projecting westward from Parliament-house to-
wards George IV.'s bridge, and presenting a rear-
front toward the spacious thoroughfare along that
bridge, is the Advocates' library. The apartments
are chiefly two noble and very elegant rooms, on
different floors. The upper room has a carved and
gilded roof; and is adorned with busts or other
sculptures of George II. by Roubilliac, Lord Jeffrey
by Steell, Baron Hume, Lord Erskine, Lord Ruther-
ford, and Sir Walter Scott, and with portraits of Sir
George Mackenzie, Lord President Spottiswood,
Lord-president Forbes, Lord-president Lockhart,
and several other famous lawyers. But a large
portion of the books is deposited in rooms be-
neath Parliament house, situated at its south
end, and accessible by flights of steps from a
door at the north-west curve of the square. The
library was founded, in 1682, by Sir George Mac-
kenzie, dean of faculty ; and, by several large ac-
cessions and a constant accumulation, has become
the largest and most valuable in Scotland. The
number of printed volumes is 1 90,000 ; and of manu-
scripts, 2,000. The volumes, in the department of
Scottish poetry alone, are nearly 400; and are ex-
tremely rare and curious. Among the manuscripts,
are those of Wodrow the historian, and many of
considerable value in the civil and ecclesiastical
history of Scotland. The library is one of five
which receive from Stationer's hall a copy of every
new work published in Great Britain or Ireland;
and it excels most, and is equalled by few, of the
public institutions of the country, in the liberality
of the principles on which it is conducted. Any
person who is even slightly known is allowed to
read and write in the apartments; and even a
stranger is admitted, without any introduction, to
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529
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survey tlie literary stores, and examine numerous
articles of vertu. Members arc allowed to possess
or carry away 25 volumes at one time, and to lend
any or all of that number to friends. The funds are
derived chiefly from fees paid by each advocate on
his becoming a member of the faculty; and they
admit of about £1,000 a-year being disbursed in the
purchase of rare or useful works. The library is
under the charge of five curators, a librarian, and
three assistants. The office of principal librarian
has been filled by men of distinguished liter-
ary character, — Thomas Kuddiman, David Hume,
Adam Ferguson, David Irving, LL.D., and Samuel
Halkett.
The Signet library adjoins Parliament house on
the north, and stretches westward, presenting
architectural fronts to Parliament -square and
Lawn-market. It is of Grecian architecture, with
handsome uniform elevation of two stories, and pos-
sesses a principal spacious, elegant apartment in
each of the stories. The upper apartment is proba-
bly the most superb room of its kind and size in
Scotland, and of very beautiful proportions. It has
on each side a range of 12 Corinthian pillars, and in
the centre a cupola. On the cupola are painted the
nine muses, and groups of historians, philoso-
phers, and poets. The roof also is exquisitely orna-
mented; and galleries are carried along the two
sides of the hall. The room is 132 feet long and 39
broad; and is accessible by a grand staircase,
adorned, in its progress and round the walls of its
landing-place, with some splendid portraits and
busts. This splendid apartment was used as a sort
of drawing-room by George IV., on the day of the
banquet in Parliament-house. The library contains
about 60,000 volumes. It is peculiarly rich in
British and Irish history; and is under the charge
of a body of curators, and conducted on principles
of liberality akin to those which distinguish the
management of the Advocates' library. The funds
are drawn solely from the contributions of the
writers to the Queen's signet.
The County hall stands at right angles with the
western extremity of the Signet library, and pre-
sents a rear front to George IV. 's bridge, an orna-
mental side front to the Lawnmarket, and the
principal front to Parliament or County square.
The last of these possesses no common beauty. An
elegant portico, consisting of four fluted Ionic
columns, with finely carved capitals, overshadows
a flight of steps leading up to the main entrance,
which is modelled after the Choragic monument of
Thrasyllus. The whole edifice, as to its general
plan and its style of ornament, is an imitation of the
temple of Erectheus at Athens. This handsome
structure was designed by Archibald Eliot, Esq.,
and erected in 1817. The court-room has a gallery
at the south end, and is neatly fitted up; and mea-
sures 43J feet in length, 29 in width, and 26 in
height. The room in which the county-meetings
are held is in the north end of the edifice, and very
elegant, — measuring 50 feet in length, 26J in width,
and 26 in height. There are apartments also for
the sheriff's court, and for various functionaries em-
ployed in the business of the county,
Banking-offices. — In Parliament-square, as already
noticed, is the elegant office of the Union Bank. —
Facing Bank-street, and looking up the slope of
that short street to High-street, but presenting a
back front to the New town, and situated a few
paces eastward of the southern end of the Mound,
is the office of the Bank of Scotland. This is an
edifice of high architectural merit, elegantly orna-
mented 171 its front and surmounted by a dome ; and
was erected at an expense of £75,000. From the
area before it romantic and distinctive views are ob-
tained of the groupings of the New town and Calton-
hill, with the brilliant scenery which forms the
back-ground. The building itself is a marked anil
beautiful feature of the picturesque and extraordinary
city- view of the north side of the Old town. — At
the east corner of George-street and North Hanover-
street, with the principal front to the former, though
with a longer one to the latter, stands the princi-
pal office of the Clydesdale Bank. It is a large,
handsome, Grecian edifice, erected in 1842. Its
principal front has two pairs of fluted Corinthian
columns, on lofty basements, and between them a
recessed centre, with pilasters. — On the south side
of George-street, midway between Hanover-street
and St. Andrew's-square, is the office of the Com-
mercial Bank. This is a superb Corinthian edifice,
built in 1847, after designs by David Kbind. Its
facade is 95 feet in length, and exhibits the finest
portico in the city. The pillars of this are six in
number, fluted, 35 feet high, and have bold, grace-
ful, well-relieved capitals; the entablature is about
9 feet ; and the pediment measures 14 feet from the
base to the apex, and is filled with beautiful statu-
ary, from the chisel of A. H. Ritchie, representing
the conjoint enterprize of agriculture, manufactures,
and commerce. The interior of the edifice is cor-
respondingly grand. The vestibule is lofty and
imposing, and is surrounded by a gallery, supported
by Ionic columns, and approached by two elegant
staircases ; this gallery leads to the principal apart-
ments in the upper division of the building, and is
richly panelled and ornamented ; and the whole is
lighted from a panelled roof, which is supported by
Corinthian columns rising in the same vertical line
with those supporting the gallery. The telling-
room is a magnificent apartment, about 90 feet by
50 feet, with dome roof supported by Corinthian
columns and antae, the entire entablature and dome
enriched with flowing ornaments in alto-relievo.
On the west side of St. Andrew's-square is the
office of the Scottish Widows' Fund Insurance
Company, — a large, symmetrical edifice, in the
Italian style, built in 1848, with screen balustrade,
neat porch, handsome window-mouldings, and
heavy projecting roof. — On the east side of the
same square, directly opposite, is the office of the
National Bank. — a large plain building, one of
the earliest aristocratic structures of the New
town. — At the extremity of a considerable recess, at
the middle of the east side of the square, fenced off
by an iron paling, and directly confronting George-
street, stands the office of the Royal Bank, — an edi-
fice of good proportions and some elegance, originally
the town mansion of Sir Lawrence Dundas. — On the
same side of the square, between the National and
the Royal, is the office of the British Linen Com-
pany's Bank. This is a magnificent Corinthian
edifice, built in 1852, after designs by Mr. Bryce.
The facade, measured from the pavement to the
top, is about 60 feet in height, and exhibits a rusti-
cated basement story, surmounted by six fluted
Corinthian columns, all standing up in individual
isolation like those of the triumphal arches at Rome.
The windows of the basement story are plain; those
of the second story have highly decorated pediments
and carved trusses, the tympanums filled with sculp-
ture; and those of the third story have small
balconies supported on carved consoles, and massive
wreaths of ash-leaves suspended by rosettes at the
top of the architraves. The six columns, inclusive
of their pedestals, are about 31 feet high. A balus-
trade, from the top of the cornice of the basement
story, about 4 feet high, runs between the pedestals.
The entablature of the columns is about 7 feet high.
2 L
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having its frieze sculptured in alto relievo, and is
recessed from the sides of each column to nearly the
face of the wall. On the entablature over the
columns stand six statues, 8 feet high, from the
chisel of A. H. Ritchie, representing agriculture,
mechanics, architecture, industry, commerce, and
navigation. A balustrade about 7 feet high runs
behind the statues on the top of the building, per-
pendicular with the face of the wall. The interior
of the building is entered by a flight of steps, the
whole breadth of the lobby, 15 feet. The telling-
room is a salloon of regal splendour, cruciform, 74
feet by 69, and lighted by a well-adapted cupola, of
about 30 feet in diameter, with its top 50 feet from
the floor. The cupola consists chiefly of slightly
obscured plate glass, bent to the curvature of the
dome-ribs, and admitting a copious flood of light.
Beneath the cupola, which rests upon a square
basement Of considerable depth, is a range, contain-
ing sixteen circular panels, in each one of which is
placed a cleverly modelled head, so large as to ap-
pear the full size of life when viewed from the fToor
of the salloon, and fully relieved from the panel.
This richly sculptured compartment in its turn rests
upon the upper member of a fully decorated entabla-
ture of the Corinthian order, supported by eight
columns and twenty-four pilasters of the same order.
The shafts of these columns and pilasters are of
polished Peterhead syenite, their pedestals of marble,
and their capitals of bronze. The floor of the sal-
loon, aS also that of the entrance-hall, is a brilliant
mosaic of coloured tiles. The proprietors' room, in
the front of the second story, measures 54 feet in
length, 22 in breadth, and 18$ in height;, and the
staircase leading to it is lighted by a large Venetian
window.
The Register Office. — The General Register house
of Scotland, Situated at the east end of Prihce's-
street, Opposite the thoroughfare of North Bridge,
comprises two edifices, front and rear. The front
edifice was founded in 1774, and aided in the
erection by a grant of £12,000 from George III., out
of the proceeds of forfeited estates; but, at first,
was completed in only half its present extent, and
did not attain the complement of its original plan
till 1822. It Was constructed from a master-design
of the celebrated Robert Adams ; and combines the
utmost internal commodiousness with exterior archi-
tectural beauty in the best taste of the simple
Grecian style. The building stands 40 feet back
from the line of Prince'S-street, and is screened by
an elegant curtain wall, on each side of a central,
spacious, double flight of steps, much improved by
an alteration made in 1850 for widening the pave-
ment. The front of the edifice is Of smooth ashlar
work, 200 feet long, and two stories of visible
height, besides a sunk floor; and it is ornamented
from end to end with A beautiful Corinthian en-
tablature, and, in the middle, has a projection of
three windows in breadth, where four Corinthian
pillars support a pediment, in the centre of which
are sculptured the armorial bearings Of Britain.
The entire building is square — 200 feet on each Side
— with a small quadrangular court in the centre.
This court is surmounted or canopied by a dome, 50
feet in diameter, which leave's just sufficient space
at the four angles for the ingress of light to the in-
ner front of the outer side of the edifice. Each
corner is surmounted by a turret, projecting a little
from the rest of the building, having clock-dials on
the exterior sides, and a cupola and Vane on the top.
The interior of the edifice is partly arranged into
nearly 100 small arched apartments, on both floors,
leading off from long corridors. There are also
small rooms for the use of functionaries connected
with the supreme courts, and larger apartments for
the stowage of registers. The great room, or
library, where are deposited the Older records, is in
the centre oi the building, lined with books over all
its walls, and balconied all round, at mid-elevation,
with a railed gallery. This Salloon ij) 50 feet in
diameter and 80 feet high, lighted from the top by
a window of 15 feet diameter; anrl its roof is divided
into compartments elegantly Ornamented with
stucco-work. From the salloon, communications
lead off into 23 subordinate apartments, all occupied
in the conservation of documents. The rear edifice
was erected in 1857-60, at a cost of £26,440, and is
a very spacious quadrangular structure, in similar
Style to the front edifice; but with richer facades
The entire interior of both edifices is constructed
witli reference on the one hand to facility of con-
sultation, and On the other to protection from damp
and fire. The whole establishment is under the
immediate management of the depute-Clerk regis-
ter, and is supported by government.
Houses of Amusement. — Opposite the Register-
house and presenting a side-front to the North
Bridge, stood the Theatre-royal. This was one of
the plainest public buildings in Edinburgh, with
ambitious front but barn-like character, a blot upon
the most important and crowded thoroughfare of the
city, and was demolished in 1860-1, to be superseded
by the new General Post-Office; a grand quadran-
gular Grecian edifice, founded in the autumn of 1861
by the late Prince Consort. — Another Theatre, called
the Adelphi, and used chiefly in Summer, while the
Royal theatre was shut, stood at the intersection of
Broughton-street and Leith-walk. with its rear on
the ascent toward St. James' square, but was burnt
in 1853; and a new theatre, now the only one in
Edinburgh, was erected soon afterwards on its site,
in sufficiently staring style, but without any fea-
tures to he creditable to the city; — On the south side
of George-street, midway between Hanover-Street
and Frederick-street, are the Assembly-rooms. The
front is plain and unpretending, relieved chiefly by
four Doric columns as an apology for a portico.
The principal room is 92 feet long, 42 wide, and 40
high; and, for niany years, besides being appro-
priated to balls and concerts, was often used for
public meetings, political, civic, charitable, and
religious. These rooms were built in 1787 by sub-
scription. The Music hall adjoins them behind, or
rather is an addition tO them, accessible by the same
entrance, and extending back to Rose-street: This
was built in 1843, after a design by Messrs: Burn
and Bryce, at the cost bf upwards of £10,000. The
hall measures 108 feet in length and 91 feet in
breadth, has a richly panelled ceiling and shallow
central dome, is fitted up in a Style of much splen-
dour, and contains a large excellent Organ.— Other
places of amusement are either cOarse structures,
without any architectUrarattraction, or large halls
variously and temporarily occupied.
Waterloo-Place. — About the most popular of the
amusement-halls, though used also for other pur-
poses, are the Waterloo-rooms, on the north side of
Waterloo-place; Connected with those rOoms, and
elsewhere in the same street, are magnificent hotels.
In the central part of both sides of the street, also,
as We noticed in a former section, are the splendid
pillars and arches which surmount the ledges of
Regent's bridge: On the south side,, too, as like-
wise We formerly noticed, stand the Inland Revenue
office and the old Post-office,— the former the central
building to the west of Regent-bridge, and the latter
immediately to the east. But though the Post-
office has a spacious open porch, and both are
splendid Grecian edifices four stories high, they are
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531
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distinguishable from the contiguous erections
mainly by the sculpture, in relief, of the royal
arms on their summit. The light colonnades of
the street, and the general magnificence and fine
proportions of all the buildings, combined with the
overshadowing heights and erections of Calton-hill,
surprise and delight every visitor from England or
tbe European continent, and drew from George IV.,
as he slowly rode, amid his triumphal procession,
within range of the view, the impassioned excla-
mation, "How superb!" The central buildings of
the street, contiguous to Regent-bridge, are remark-
able also for the great depth to which they descend
into the ravine, with side and back fronts to the
thoroughfares below, forming as large masses of
edifice there as above the Waterloo-place level.
Yet the Post-office, in spite of occupying one of
these buildings, was found too incommodious, and
also suffers the evil of deep contact with the High
Calton burying-ground ; hence the necessity for the
new erection opposite the Register-house.
The mere roadway of Waterloo-place, together
with its continuation of Regent-road, along the
southern breast of Calton-hill, was formed at the
expense of £52,000. A part of Shakespeare-square
which projected northward from the other part, and
looked along Prince's-street, was destroyed; a part
of the High Calton burying-ground was cut away,
with the effect of removing the putrid bodies to
other graves ; and in the course of cutting and level-
ling the road, 100,000 cubic yards of rock had to be
removed, and upwards of £l,000's worth of gun-
powder was consumed. But the sum of £35,000
was immediately recovered by the sale of building-
stands. All the part of the south side of Waterloo-
place east of the Post-office is faced with a retain-
ing-wall, to exclude the view and support the de-
clivity of the remaining part of the High Calton
burying-ground. The wall, however, is so lofty,
ornamental, and symmetrical, so well adorned with
projections, niches, pillars, and cornice, as to look
much better than many a range of very neat dwell-
ing-houses. A considerable part of the south side
directly opposite, also, is built in a manner of exact
counter-part; and the eastern-most portion of this,
with a terminal semicircular sweep of Doric three-
quarter columns facing eastward, is the front of the
Calton convening-rooms, — likewise much used for
popular exhibitions and amusements.
Prisons. — Adjoining the ei<st end of Waterloo-
place on the south side, and extending thence along
Regent-road, is the Town and County jail. It con-
sists of three parts, the original jail, the quondam
bridewell, and a recent extension. The original was
founded in 1815, and finished in 1817. It is an ex-
tensive building, in the Saxon style of architecture,
somewhat castellated. The front, on the line of
street, presents to the observer on the road-way
simply a high wall with a massive gateway. But
seen from many points of view in the Old town, and
especially from the summit, immediately before it,
of Calton-hill, it has a multiform and architecturally
— though certainly not in moral association — a very
interesting aspect. Along the street-line are apart-
ments for the turnkeys. Behind these, with an area
intervening, is the jail itself, 194 feet long, 40 feet
wide, and 4 stories high, with rows of small grated
windows. In the centre is a division formerly used
as a chapel with windows larger and not grated.
Along the interior run corridors, opening into 48
cells, 8 feet by 6, besides some other apartments of
larger dimensions. From the lower flat behind, a
number of small airing grounds, separated by high
walls, radiate to a point, where they are all over-
looked and commanded by a small octangular watch-
house occupied by a deputy-governor. Farther
back, and perched on the edge of a precipice which
overhangs the Old town, is the castellated house of
the governor, having in its front a small area o'
flower-plots. The jail has classified wards, is clean
and well-managed, and possesses facilities for the
practice of approved prison -discipline.
Bridewell was founded in 1791, opened in 1796,
and incorporated with the jail in 1840. It stands
immediately east of the original jail, from which it
was never separated by anything more than a high
spiked wall. In front of it, shielded by a high wall
and ponderous gate on the street-line, is a neat house
erected for the governor. Bridewell itself is of a
semicircular form, and has five floors, the highest
of which is distributed into store-rooms and an hos-
pital. All round on each floor, at the middle of the
breadth, is a corridor, with cells on each side, lighted
respectively from the interior and the exterior of the
curvature. Those on the inner side are chiefly used
as workshops, and can all be surveyed from a dark
apartment in the governor's house, without the ob-
server being himself observable. — The new exten-
sion jail stands contiguous to bridewell on the east,
and was completed in 1847. It is a strong castel-
lated edifice of four stories, terminated on the east,
where it looks along the Regent-road, with massive
towers and a grand gate, presenting there archi-
tectural features in keeping with those of the original
jail on the west, but more imposing both in itself
and in its site, figuring largely on the face of the
Calton hill between precipices below and steeps
above, and appearing in the distance, especially
from points of view in the Queen's park, not at all
like a prison, but like a romantic citadel or like a
very sumptuous baronial hall.
Bridges. — The South bridge consists of 21 arches,
and was founded in 1785, and opened in 1788. To
the eye of a stranger, its existence is not readily
obvious. Except at tbe central arch which spans
the Cowgate, and where there are simple ledges
with lofty iron railings, nothing is seen upon it but
two lines of neat buildings, and spacious shops,
forming a level, a bustling, and in all respects an
ordinary-looking street. Three lanes were pulled
down in order to make way for its erection ; and
when a trench was dug for the foundation of the
central pier, at a depth of no less than 22 feet, there
were found many coins of Edward I., II., and III. —
The North bridge was founded in 1763, commenced
in 1767, interrupted by the giving way of the vaults
and side-walls at the south end in 1769, and com-
pletedinl772,at an expenseof about£18,000. Itcon-
sists of three great arches, two small open side arches,
and a series of small arches at each end which are
occupied as vaults. The width of each of the great
arches is 72 feet ; the breadth or thickness of each
of the piers is 13£ feet; the width of each of the
open small arches is 20 feet; the length of the
whole open part of the bridge is 310 feet; the length
of the entire bridge, from High-street to Prince's-
street, is 1,125 feet; the height of the bridge, from
the top of the parapet to the base of the great arches,
is 68 feet ; the breadth, within wall, is, over the
open arches, 40 feet, and at each end, 50 feet.
Along the south end are very strong buttresses and
counterforts, supporting rows of lofty building which
run up on both sides to the High-street, and conceal
that part of the bridge entirely from view, giving it
the appearance of a regular street. On the north
end there is a counterfort only on the east side ; but
on the west side a line of building is carried up from
the level of the bridge's foundation, having in the.
rear about double of the height which it presents on
the street-line in its front.
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George IV.'s bridge, which goes off at right angles
from the Lawn-market opposite Bank-street, and
stretches across the Cowgate to a point near the
south end of Candlemaker's-row, was projected in
1825 ; and after heing begun, and for some time left
in an unfinished state through a failure of funds,
was completed in 1836. It is, in all respects, a
splendid erection, and has three open double arches
over the Cowgate, besides seven concealed arches at
the ends. Part of the line is edificed with houses
and public buildings, and wears the appearance of
a street. — The King's bridge, constituting the
principal feature of the New Western approach,
was projected and completed about the same time
as George IV.'s bridge. It spans the hollow ground
on the south side of the Castle-rock in a single arch,
and has long approaches along the face of the Castle-
bank to the Lawn-market on one end, and on to a
point near Port-Hopetoun on the other. — Eegent
bridge, in Waterloo- place, was founded in 1815, and
completed in 1819. It has one open arch over the
Low-Calton, 50 feet in width, and about the same
measurement in height. The ledges over this arch,
or in the space where the bridge has not strictly a
street-appearance, bear aloft triumphal arches, sup-
ported by Corinthian pillars, and win ged with Ionic
colonnades. — The Dean bridge, over the water of
Leith near Randolph crescent, was completed in
1832. It is a stupendous and brilliant structure,
carried across a ravine, and consists of four arches,
each 96 feet wide. The bridge is 447 feet long, and
between the parapets, 39 feet broad. The road-way
is higher than that of almost any other bridge in
Scotland, passing at 106 feet above the bed of the
stream. — The Waverley bridge is a neat substantial
structure, agglomerated with the works of the rail-
way termini, and occupying the centre of what was
formerly called the Little Mound. — The several
bridges over the Water of Leith, connecting the city
with its suburbs, are all good.
The Mound. — The Earthen Mound is a line of
communication between the New town and the Old
town second in importance only to the North bridge;
and, though not a bridge itself, or in any proper
sense an edifice, yet, as to both situation and use, it
is a perfect succedaneum for a bridge, and at the
same time has evoked much more play of archi-
tectural skill than many a most massive edifice; so
that it may be allowed a description in a place
where there ought to have been a great bridge to
be described. It stretches across the site of the
quondam North loch, with a considerable ascent
southward, from a point in Prince's-street nearly
opposite the end of Hanover-street to a point on the
declivity of the central hill of the Old town whence
two divergent thoroughfares wend off toward respec-
tively the foot of Bank-street and the head of Castle-
street. The length of the Mound is upwards of 800
feet; its height, on the north, is upwards of 60 feet,
nnd on the south is about 100 feet; and its breadth
is proportionally much greater than its height,
averaging probably 300 feet. Huge as the mass is,
it consists entirely of shot earth, and originated in
a very trivial and almost accidental operation.
About 75 years ago, when the North loch valley
was still a marsh, and when the operations for
building the New town were still in infancy, a
Lawn-market shop-keeper of the name of George
Boyd, who had frequent occasion to visit these
operations, and wished to reach them by the shortest
route, accommodated himself with " steps " across
the marsh, and soon made the passage sufficiently
good to let him go over dry-shod. Other persons
who bad similar business, or who passed over from
curiosity, made use of his contrivance, and grate-
fully or waggishly designating it " Geordie Boyd's
brig," added to it from time to time stones and
sticks and rubbish, till it became heightened and
widened into a good foot-road. A discovery was
thus accidentally made of an excellent public use
to which rubbish could be put; and permission was
soon asked and obtained by the constructors of the
New town to deposit on " Geordie Boyd's brig "
the masses of earth which they were excavating to
form the sunk floors of houses. Thus was the
Mound commenced; and from 1781 till 1830, it con-
tinued to receive constant or occasional augmenta-
tions; and at the latter date, it was levelled, put
into final shape, and softened off with as much
embellishment as its lumpish outline would admit.
A computation was made, that it received, from first
to last, about two millions of cart-loads; and the
inference was thence drawn that if it had been
formed on purpose, at the rate of only 6d. per cart-
load, it would have cost about £50,000.
But the subsequent changes on it are still more
striking, and strongly illustrate what art can do.
The Mound was one of the ugliest objects in the
metropolis, and figured long as a monstrous eye-
sore in the estimation of all admirers of Edinburgh
scenery. But partly through indirect circum
stances, partly through design, it has become in
some degree the centre, and in some degree the site,
of some of the chief architectural glories of the city ;
standing up, at the same time, as a grand vantage-
ground for viewing all the scenery of both divisions
of the valley in combination with the confronting
faces of the two towns, and of the Calton-hill and
Castle. Opinions, indeed, have widely differed re-
specting the main improvements on it, — as well
they might, seeing that scarcely ever a stiffer prob-
lem presented itself to engineer or architect than
how to work such an amorphous mass into harmony
with the intricate romance which surrounds it. Yet
have such changes taken place around and on it as
oblige at least all general observers to acknowledge
it now to be one of the most ornate localities in the
world, — not a great deal inferior to the ancient
Roman Forum. First rolled off from its western
base the luscious pleasure-grounds of the Castle-
slopes and the West Prince's-street gardens. Next
rose on its north end the Royal institution,- — whose
profusion of Grecian pillars and of sculptures ac-
cords well with the pride of "Modern Athens."
Next soared into view, over the great masses of old
masonry which overhung its south end, the cloud-
cleaving fairy-looking spire of the Assembly-hall.
Next rose near the end of its east flank the gorgeous
Gothic arches and pinnacles of the Scott monument.
Next went through its centre the tunnel of the
Glasgow railway, whose difficult}', as a specimen of
engineering, is to the full as interesting as any
master-piece of architecture. Next stood up across
its south end, in such a remarkable position as
almost to take on the Assembly-hall spire, the
broad, massive, Elizabethan turreted front of the
Free Church college. Next spread away from its
eastern base, up the adjacent slopes, and on to the
Waverley-bridge, the smiling beauties of the East
Prince's-street gardens. Next was formed a broad
carriage-way, with fine pavements and a handsome
iron railing up the west side of the Mound, and
obliquely across its south end. And last of all rose
over all the rest of its available space, with four grand
architectural fronts, all just long and low enough to
be in keeping with the site, the splendid Grecian
pile of the National gallery. These last improve-
ments alone — those of the roadway and gallery —
were estimated to cost no less than £40,000.
Mailway Structures. — The terminus of the Edin-
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burgh and Glasgow railway and the terminus ol' the
Nortli British railway ara conjoint, at the east side
of Waverloy-bridge, in the centre of the North loch
valley, midway between the North bridge and the
Mound. The front has only a one-story elevation
above the level of Waverley bridge, aud the roof all
eastward to the extremity of the station is broad,
flat, and lower than the level of Prince's-street;
yet the whole presents a handsome appearance, the
front having a massive stone verandah with elegant
arches, and the roof being well rilled with glass in
neat uniform compartments. The hall of the book-
ing-offices is on a level with the pavement, very
spacious, and lighted principally from the roof,
whose compartments here are sustained by Co-
rinthian pillars. The centre of the floor is boxed off
semicircularly, with slits in the panelling for the
issuing of tickets; and large open spaces at the
sides lead to spacious flights of steps, by which easy
descent is made to the platform of the carriages.
The flight on the south side leads to the Edinburgh
and Glasgow line, and that on the north side to the
North British line; there are also separate exits, —
both of them with every facility for wheeled con-
veyances from the bottom of the valley; and the
combined stations of the two lines, under the long,
wide, lofty roof, form a grand arcade which is not
excelled, in elegance and airiness, by anything of
its kind in the world.
The very workshops, sheds, parapets, and other
adjuncts of these termini are so neat as to excite
the surprise of strangers. The whole structures, in
fact, are fitted into the valley as neatly as possible,
rather to adorn than to deform so remarkable a
space between such remarkable city-facades. The
approaches, also, are ornamental; and that on the
south side is in line with the picturesque new thor-
oughfare of Coekburn-streer, opened in 1861. Nor are
the portions of the railways themselves within the
limits of the city devoid of considerable interest.
The Edinburgh and Glasgow dives curiously through
the tunnel of the Mound, passes under neat light
pedestrian bridges within the West Prince's-street
gardens, almost hugs the skirts of the romantic
cliffs of the Castle, and then plunges into a tunnel
to run about 3,000 feet under the streets of the
Western New town, to an emergence at its original
terminus at the Haymarket. And the North British
expands its depot eastward beyond the piers of the
North-bridge, has there some works which interlace
curiously with the North back of the Canongate,
traverses the southern spur of the Calton-hill in a
tunnel right below Burns' monument, and curves
thence away, above the level of the surrounding
hollows, on an artificial level, which is partly em-
bankment and partly arched viaduct, till it reaches
the vicinity of St. Margaret's.
The terminus of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dun-
dee railway communicates with the joint terminus
of the Edinburgh and Glasgow and the North
British, and stands contiguous to it on the north,
occupying the space thence to Prince's-street. Its
principal feature, as seen from that street, looks to
be a raised platform, supported in front by a row of
elegant columns, closed round by offices, and pre-
senting a chaste and tasteful appearance. The
passengers' station is beneath that platform, in front
of the offices, and is reached either cireuitously by
way of the approaches to the other termini, or
directly for pedestrians by long flights of steps and
galleries from the pavement of Prince's-street. A
square brick chimney-stalk, connected with a house
for working a stationary engine, stands immediately
east of the station, but so much dwarfed in stature,
and masked with stone-coloured ornaments, as not
to be a. very serious disfigurement of the scenery.
A tunnel commences, in decorated arch-work, be-
neath the brow of Prince's-street, swallowing up the
trains at the instant of their starting, and descends
on a rapidly inclined plain beneath the whole
breadth of the New town, to the foot of Scotland-
street. This tunnel is one of the most remarkable
pieces of engineering in modern times, only a de-
gree or two less wonderful than the subfluviatile
tunnel of the Thames, and with so steep a gradient
that the trains require all to be passed through it
by means of an endless cable worked by the station-
ary engine. There is likewise a curious tunnel on
the old Dalkeith railway, immediately south-east of
the terminus at St. Leonard's. And there is a re-
markable piece of engineering, in the transit of the
Caledonian railway close beneath the foundations of
very lofty houses at Gardner's crescent.
Market-structures. — The town-markets of the city,
situated under the North bridge, consist of a series
of terraces on the southern slopes, terminating in a
large quadrangular area at the bottom of the valley,
surrounded by a piazza, and partitioned into depart-
ments. All are well arranged and tidy, and as to
both quantity and quality, are always well supplied.
There are also smaller town-markets at West Nicol-
son-street, at Stockbridge, and at Dublin-street ;
and a sort of dismembered market is dispersed, in
the form of single or clustered shops, for the sale of
flesh or vegetables, throughout almost every part of
the city. Large quantities of fish are brought from
the coast, chiefly from Newhaven and Fisher-row,
and sold in a fresh state variously in markets, in
shops, and on the streets. A great weekly market
of country produce in quantity, connectedly with
the sample-sales of grain in the Corn-exchange,
is held every Wednesday in the spacious area of the
Grassmarket. The cattle market is a commodious
enclosure, in the triangular space between West-
port, Lady Lawson's-wynd, and Laurieston-place,
and has a market inn in its centre. Sales are com-
monly effected here, early on every Wednesday
morning, of about 800 or 900 cattle and about 2,000
sheep.
The abbattoirs, or slaughter-houses, though not
themselves market-structures, are so intimately con-
nected with them that they may be noticed here.
The old shambles stood contiguous to the town-
markets under the North bridge, and were a horrible
nuisance. The new abbattoirs, opened in 1852, are
situated on the grounds of Lochrin, between Fountain
bridge and Lochrin distillery, at the south-western
extremity of the city. They extend over an area of
nearly four acres. The entrance is by a grand
Egyptian facade at Fountain bridge, displaying
emblematic figures, and stone caryatides of cattle,
supporting the arches and introduced as corbels;
and the interior is fitted up with every convenience,
containing ranges of killing- houses which are let
out to the butchers of the city. — The basin of the
Union Canal, immediately north of the abbattoirs,
in the space between Fountain bridge, Downie-
place, and St. Anthony-place, possesses much market
interest as a vast coal depot, and was originally a
very curious place for its works, wharves, stores,
and bustle, but now exhibits a forlorn appearance.
Gas- Works. — The chief premises of the Edinburgh
gas-light company stand in the space between
Canongate, New-street, North Back of Canongate,
and the Canongate burying-ground. This company
was formed in 1817, and incorporated in the following
year, with a capital of £100,000 in shares of £25.
The premises are very extensive, and comprise
eight gasometers, one of which is 101J feet in
diameter. The principal chimney is a cylindrical
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534
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brick column springing from a square stone pedestal,
and finished at the top with belts and coping, — the
pedestal 30 feet square, the shaft tapering in diameter
from 26 feet to 16 feet, and the top standing 341J
feet from the foundation. This chimney was built
in 1847. It is furnished with an endless chain, go-
ing up the inside of the shaft, and giving the means
of ascending at any time to the top. In consequence
of rising from nearly the bottom of the hollow at
the southern base of the Calton-hill, it does not
figure largely in most of the good architectural
groupings of the city; but, as seen from some
vantage-grounds of the southern environs, par-
ticularly about Liberton, it looks to soar beautifully
aloft in very aspiring symmetry.
Extensive premises for an oil-gas manufactory
were erected in 1825 at Tanfield. But the principle
of the manufactory proved unsuccessful; and they
were ultimately purchased by the previous company.
Parts of them, comprising four gasometers, were
then reserved for the supply of the northern parts
of the city from the Canongate manufactory ; and
the rest came to be occupied, some as warehouses,
and some as the Free church assembly-hall. No
less than about 80 miles of pipes of the Edinburgh
gas-light company, varying in diameter from 1£
inch to 15 inches, extend through the streets of the
city. — A new gas company, formed in 1839, pur-
chased the Leith gas works, took the name of the
Edinburgh and Leith gas company, and laid pipes
through the streets of Edinburgh, so as to supply
both towns from the Leith works.
Wattr- Works. — A reservoir, for holding water
brought to it in pipes from Comiston on the acclivities
of the Pentland hills, was constructed, about the
year 1674, at the head of Castle-street, on the north-
east verge of the Castle esplanade. This used to be
regarded as one of the sights of the city — not on ac-
count of anything attractive in itself, for it was a
remarkably plain structure — but from a feeling of
wonder that a building full of water should stand
on such an elevated situation. A deep hollow punc-
ture in the west end of its roof, also, never failed to
draw the attention of strangers, having been caused
by a cannon-shot from the Castle during the time of
the blockade by the Highland army in 1 745, and
bearing an inscription round it in paint to authenti-
cate its origin. This reservoir was 5 feet deep, 30
feet broad, and 40 feet long, and contained about
6,000 cubic feet of water. But being vastly too
small foi the modern wants of the city, it was de-
molished in the autumn of 1849, in order to give
place to a new and much larger one. Its successor
now stands on the same site, has an ornamental
appearance, is constructed with great strength,
measures 30 feet in depth, 90 in breadth, and 110 in
length, and contains about 297,000 cubic feet of
water. From the bottom of it is a series of pipes
for distributing the water to all the high parts of
the city. And in order to supply the houses in
Castle-street and the upper part of High-street,
which are situated at a greater altitude than the
reservoir, and at the same time to furnish an ample
ready supply to the troops in garrison, a large
cistern was constructed in 1850 in the shot -yard of
the Castle. There is also an old large reservoir in
the green of Heriot's hospital.
All the supplies of water are brought from springs
and rills within the river-systems of the North Esk
and the Water of Leith, on the northern slopes of
the Pentlands; and all the works, except the city
reservoirs, consist of erections for damming the
water at its sources, appliances for filtering it,
trunk-pipes for bringing it to Edinburgh, and rami-
fication-pipes for distributing it through the city.
In 1621, the magistrates obtained an act of parlia-
ment empowering them to cast " seuchs and ditches "
in the lands between the city and the Pentlands, and
to construct means of bringing water; but, for half
a century, they seem either to have found no en-
gineer-, or to have wanted resources, to execute their
project. In 1674, however, they engaged a German
plumber, for £2,950, to lay down a leaden pipe of 3
inches in diameter from the springs of Comiston to
the reservoir on the Castle-hill. A larger pipe,
with supply from additional springs, was soon found
necessary; and a new one of 4^ inches in diameter
began to be laid, but was slowly carried on, and not
completed till 1722. The supply being still in-
sufficient for the increasing wants of the city, a new
act of parliament was obtained, authorizing the ex-
tension of the works. In 1787, a cast-iron pipe of
5 inches in diameter was added for increased con-
veyance from Comiston; and in 1790, another of 7
inches in diameter was laid from springs on the
lands of Swanston. These works were executed
from the city funds, at the cost of £20,000; but
even they proved speedily unsatisfactory ; nor could
sufficient ones any longer be expected except on
some basis of compulsory assessment.
A water company, with the town-council holding
large shares in it as representatives of the citizens,
was formed in 1810, and incorporated in 1819, and
obtained new powers in 1826. Its capital was
limited at first to £135,000, but extended in 1826 to
£253,000. A new grand source of supply was now
opened at Crawley, nearly 9 miles from Edinburgh.
A cistern was formed there 6 feet deep, 15 broad,
and 45 long, with outside walls and an arched roof;
a great artificial pond, at the same time, was formed
for giving compensatory supply to the mills on the
North Esk; and a cast-iron pipe of from 15 to 20
inches in diameter was laid from the cistern along
the valley of Glencorse, thence through a tunnel of
a mile in length, thence by Straiton, Burdiehouse,
and Liberton Dams to the north side of the
Meadows, and thence through a second tunnel,
across the Grass-market, and through a third tunnel
to Prince's-street, but sending off main communica-
tions to the two reservoirs respectively near Heriot's
hospital and on the Castle esplanade. These works
cost nearly £200,000; and they raised the total sup-
ply of water to the city to the rate of about 298 cubic
feet per minute. Still, amid the increase of demand,
and under the disaster of great occasional scarcity
in times of drought, even these works were not
enough. A new company was now projected, but
soon made a compromise with the old, on terms
which stimulated enterprise. A new bill was ob-
tained in 1843, — extended powers also at a later
date; and negociations with the town council, as
well as a pressure from without, continued for years
to increase the stimulus already given. Hence
were new works of supply constructed, and old ones
repaired, which, together with the works on the
Castle-hill and elsewhere in the city, cost about
£80,000 against the end of 1851 ; and still further-
works of supply were then projected, on an esti-
mated cost of £45,000. The total supply to the city
was then 522 cubic feet per minute, — all pure spring
water; and the additional supply from the projected
works was estimated at 126 cubic feet, — chiefly burn
water. The company's gathering reservoirs at
Crawley, Loganlea, Clubbiedean, Bonally, and Tor-
duff, had then aggregately a capacity of 112,962,267
cubic feet. The yearly income was £21,450; the
yearly ordinary expenditure was £7,770, and the
amount available for dividends £13,680.
Monuments. — In the centre of Parliament-square
is an equestrian statue of Charles II., erected in
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535
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1685, at the cost of £1,000, which, in vigour of de-
Bign and general effect, is far from the worst speci-
men of hronze statuary in the metropolis. — On the
north side of the Castle esplanade is a splendid
hronze statue of the Duke of York, placed on a
pedestal, and erected in 1839. — In Adam-square is a
beautiful sandstone statue of James Watt, in a sitting
posture, on a granite pedestal, erected in 1853. — In
George-street, at the point of its intersection by
Frederick-street, is the bronze statue of Pitt, ex-
ecuted by Chantrey, and erected in 1833. The
statue is placed on a granite pedestal, and possesses
considerable dignity of expression. — In George-
street, at the point of its intersection by Hanover-
street, is the bronze statue of George IV., also executed
by Chantrey, and erected in 1832. This monument
is" utterly inferior to that of Pitt, and has the worse
effect from suffering comparison by its immediate
vicinity. " The majesty of the monarch must be
admitted to be somewhat transcendental. The
figure is so far thrown back, as to give it the ap-
pearance of deriving a share of its support from the
drapery behind, an expedient suggesting some par-
ticulars in the natural history of the kangaroo,
which by no means contribute to sublimity of effect.
It must, however, be granted, that by caricaturing
the monarch the artist has exalted the minister,
for the exaggerated pomp of the one, powerfully
contrasts with the intellectual elevation of the
other." — In the centre of St. Andrew's-square, at
the east end of George-street, stands Lord Melville's
monument. This is a remarkably handsome column,
begun in 1821, and finished in 1828, by subscrip-
tions chiefly of naval officers. It rises to the height
of 136 feet, and is then surmounted by a statue 14
feet high. The design is, in general, a copy of the
Trajan column in Rome; but deviates from that
model in the shaft being fluted instead of ornament-
ally sculptured, and in the pedestal being a square
instead of a sphere. The column is 12 feet 2 inches
thick at the bottom, and gradually diminishes in its
ascent, till it is 10J feet thick at the top. Up the
interior is a spiral staircase, lighted by almost im-
perceptible slits in the fluting. The base is adorned
with some beautiful architectural devices; and the
colossal statue, formed of stone, appears, on its
giddy elevation, of the natural size of the human
figure. — In front of the Royal bank in St. Andrew's-
square is a statue, in Roman costume, of the Earl
of Hopetoun, erected in 1835. The Earl leans on a
charger pawing the pedestal, and is eulogized in
inscriptions commemorative of his military exploits.
A colossal sitting statue of Queen Victoria, in
grey sandstone, surmounts the front of the Royal
institution, looking up South Hanover-street. It
was sculptured in 1844 by Steel. " Though some-
what rigid in outline, from the effect principally of
the mural crown encircling the Sovereign's brow,
this figure is finely proportioned. It is not easy to
conceive how a sitting figure can be gracefully
placed ; and the monks have so caricatured it in the
grotesque Gothic, that the pyramidal effect here
imparted to the mass, harmonized by Steel into a
regular geometrical figure, is quite unexpected.
Environed by finely sculptured sphinxes, by the same
artist, looking forth prophetically into the future,
from the four angles of the building, this statue
is one of the finest sculptures we possess." — A stand-
ing statue of Queen Victoria, in sandstone, admirably
chiselled, on a highly enriched pedestal in bas-relief,
by A. H. Ritchie, was erected in 1850 in the middle
of the area in front of Holyrood palace, but removed
in 1857. — On the south side of Regent-road, "260
yards east of the new prison, on a roek ten feet
higher than the level of the roadway, and conspicu-
ously overlooking all the valley of the Canongate
and of the Queen's-park, stands Burns' monument.
It was designed by Hamilton. It is a circular
temple of florid character, with Corinthian cyclostyle
of twelve columns, raised on a quadrangular base
the cupola after the monument of Lysicrates at
Athens, supporting a tripod with winged fabulous
creatures. A marble statue of Burns by Flaxman
was originally placed in it ; but, in consequence of
its sustaining injury from exposure, was removed
to the splendid library-hall of the College. Such a
place as that focus of learning for the unlettered
bard, may seem curious enough ; but the manner of
the statue itself is still more so, being, not that of
a peasant apostrophising the mountain daisy, but
that of a Roman senator, with scroll in hand, ad-
dressing the conscript fathers of the senate.
On the west face of Calton-hill, overlooking
Waterloo-place, is Dugald Stewart's monument,
erected in 1831. It was built from a design by Mr.
Playfair ; and is in the style of a Grecian temple, —
a restoration, with some variations, of the Choragic
monument of Lysicrates. It has seven Corinthian
columns, a rich entablature, and a beautiful funereal
urn. — Higher up, on the same face of the hill, at
the south-east corner of the new observatory, is
Professor Playfair's monument, also designed by
Mr. Playfair, a small, square, solid, uninscribed,
Doric edifice, enclosed with a railing. — In the High
Calton burying-ground, a few yards west of the jail,
surmounting the cliff which soars up from the Low
Calton, and forming a conspicuous object in various
points of view in the Old town, as also from the
Calton hill, is David Hume's monument, a dark,
low circular tower, of huge size for a mausoleum. —
In the vicinity of this, figuring with odious con-
spicuousness, a perfect pinnacle of bad taste, a great
finger of vulgarity, pointing up with impotent ridi-
cule amid the maze of architectural beauties around
it, is a lofty obelisk erected in 1845 to the memory
of Muir, Palmer, Skirving, Gerald, and Margaret,
who suffered banishment in 1794 for then- efforts in
the cause of political reform. — A small monument
to the poet Fergusson in the Canongate burying-
ground is remarkable for being a restoration by sub-
scription of an original one placed there by the poet
Burns. — A monument in the Greyfriars' burying-
ground, though possessing no attractions as a work
of art, is intensely interesting to a large poifion of
the community for its commemorating the martyrs of
the Covenant who were executed at Edinburgh dur-
ing the twenty-seven years preceding the Revolu-
tion.— A monument, from the chisel of A. H.
Ritchie, on the west side of the basement of the
tower of St. Cnthbert's church, to the memory of
the Rev. Dr. Dickson, is a remarkably beautiful
piece of sculpture, representing him in his gown
administering consolation to the widow and the
fatherless. — Another monument, by Steel in the
same burying-ground, to the memory of Mr. Jamie-
son, an eminent lawyer, the son of Dr. Jamieson,
beautifully represents innocence protected and op-
pression exposed. — Multitudes of monuments, in the
several burying-grounds, particularly in the newer
ones, display much beauty ; while not a few, such
as those of Dr. Chalmers and Sir Andrew Agnew in
the Grange cemetery, possess intense interest for
their associations. — A monument of the second Vis-
count Melville, consisting of a standing bronze
statue on a sandstone pedestal, was erected in 1857
in Melville-street.
On the summit of the highest rocky eminence of
Calton-hill stands Nelson's monument, — a conspicu-
ous object in almost every view of Edinburgh from
sea or land, and an aspiring termination to the view
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536
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along Prince's-street from the west. It was com-
menced shortly after Lord Nelson's death, but was
not finished till 1815. Fastidious criticism has, in
one instance, described it as "more ponderous than
elegant ; " and in another instance, has forgotten its
own dignity by representing the monument as
" modelled exactly after a Dutch skipper's spy-glass,
or a butter chum; " yet, as if fearful of a rebound
of the witticism upon itself, has added that the
monument, " from the grandeur of its site and the
greatness of its dimensions, must be admitted to pos-
sess those attributes of sublimity which are inde-
pendent of grandeur of design." The base is a
battlemented octagon, divided into small apartments,
and occupied by a restaurateur; and has, over its
entrance, the crest of Nelson and sculpture in bas-
relief representing the stern of the San Joseph, and,
underneath, an appropriate inscription. From this
edificed base rises, to the height of 102 feet, a cir-
cular, four-story, battlemented tower, with a crown-
ing one-story, battlemented turret, surmounted by
a time-ball and a flag-staff. Around the edifice
are a garden and plots of shrubbery. The precipice
from the edge of which the monument rises possesses
an outline, which, as seen from a point south of
Holyrood house, is alleged to be a profile of Nelson.
The time-baH on the monument was erected in
1852. It has a diameter of 5£ feet, and is raised by
machinery every day at 1 o'clock to the height of
15 feet. It serves the ptu-pose both of synchronising
the clocks of the city, and of regulating the chro-
nometers of the vessels at Leith and Granton.
Near Nelson's monument, a little to the north, on
the summit of a knoll, stand the twelve pillars of
the National monument. This structure was pro-
jected in commemoration of the Scotsmen who fell in
the land and sea fights consequent on the French
revolution; and, with a splendour of design corre-
sponding to the greatness of the object, was meant
to be a literal restoration of the Parthenon of Athens.
No little enthusiasm was displayed in the prospect
of its erection, and promised to draw out the requisite
though vast amount of money for its completion;
but either it subsided or felt its energies to be
factitious; so that, though sanctioned and aided by
Royal concurrence, it has hitherto left the monu-
ment as commemorative of incompetency of pecu-
niary means on the part of admiring survivors, as of
the deeds and bravery of departed heroes. The
monument was founded in 1822, during George IV.'s
visit to Edinburgh, and was commenced in 1824.
The pillars of it which have been erected are of
gigantic proportions and great beauty, cost upwards
of £1,000 each, and were designed to form the
western range of the entire structure. The archi-
tect was Playfair; and the work, had it been com-
pleted, would have done the highest credit to his
genius. Various projects have recently been talked
of, and some magnificent proffers of liberality been
made, to re-enkindle enthusiasm, and get the monu-
ment completed. Speculation says respecting the
desired result of these, — " It is intended to form a re-
pository of sculpture and the fine arts, commemorative
of the national greatness, whether in great men who
have flourished in its history, or in the triumphs of
war or peace by which it has been distinguished ;
as at the Walhalla in Germany, which the building,
when completed, will very much resemble."
In front of the Register office, at the part where
the screen-wall of that edifice is interrupted by the
double flight of steps leading up to the grand en-
trance, stands the equestrian statue of the Duke of
Wellington, on a pedestal of Peterhead syenite.
The pedestal is 13 feet high, and very plain. The
statue is nearly 14 feet high, and all life, energy,
and grace, the grandest work of its kind in the
world. The horse is in high action, rearing in air
under the curb, as if pulled suddenly up when in
hot speed ; while the rider sits in dignified equipoise,
issuing an imminent order connected with the
evolutions of a battle, and pointing to the part of
the field where the order is to be executed. The
weight of the whole figure rests on the horse's hind-
legs and tail ; and this occasioned great skill in such
a distribution of the metal throughout the parts as
to produce a secure equipoise. The only other
equestrian statue with a rearing horse is that of
Peter the Great at St. Petersburgh ; and there the
difficulty of the equipoise is mainly overcome by
the grotesque introduction of a serpent, on which the
horse tramples, and which not only strengthens the
hind-legs, but projects veiy far behind so as to serve
as a balance. The Duke in the Edinburgh statue
is a portrait, with the additional advantage that he
rode to the artist as well as sat to him, so as to give
exact ideas of his style of horsemanship. His
posture is truly grand, — just what a good imagina-
tion, well informed, would ascribe to the British
hero in the heat of battle, — all erect, calm, noble,
massively intelligent, lifting his curved right hand
in a manner of the most significant command, hold-
ing gracefully in his left the horse's reins and his
own plumed hat, — and withal raimented in a fashion
most classically martial. The cost of the work was
only £10,000. The weight of the bronze is nearly
12 tons. The different parts of the work are not, as
in most bronze statues, rivetted together, but fused.
The artist was Steel of Edinburgh, so that the work
is a double boast to Modern Athens, — the finest of
its kind, and of native produce; and at the same
time is the first bronze statue which was ever cast
in Scotland. So generally has this work been ad-
mired that copies of it, in picture and in statuette,
have been immensely multiplied. The inaugura-
tion of it took place, with great ceremony, on the
18th of June, 1852.
On an esplanade on the north side of the East
Prince's-street gardens, on a level with the roadway
of Prince's-street, opposite the foot of St. David's-
street, stands the monument of Sir Walter Scott.
Designs for it were made a subject of public com-
petition; and the successful one was furnished by
George M. Kemp, who, from being a common arti-
zan, rose to artistic eminence through enthusiastic
study of Eoslin chapel, but who did not live to see
the Scott monument completed. His conception
was no less than to construct out of the models of
Melrose abbey a grand Gothic aspiring cross; and
this conception has been so nobly realised as to
render the monument an architectural wonder of
the age. It is just the select parts of Melrose
abbey, first beautifully restored, and next symmetri-
cally piled into a Gothic spire. Four grand base-
ment arches are connected together exactly in the
same manner as those beneath the central tower of
any cruciform Gothic cathedral. Four other grand
arches spring diagonally from the outer side of
the piers of these arches, and rest exteriorly on
isolated buttressed piers, which are surmounted by
lofty pinnacles. Elegant pierced flying buttresses
ascend from the inner side of the base of these
pinnacles, and from the end of a pierced hori-
zontal parapet over the contiguous spandrils, to the
middle of the second stage of the monument. A
contracting series of galleries, arches, turrets, and
pinnacles soars aloft from the summit of the four
grand basement arches, stage above stage, till it
attains a height of 200£ feet from the ground, and
terminates there in a single finial. The capitals'.,
mouldings, niches, parapets, crockettings, and
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other ornaments are all in the style of decorated
Gothic, closely after the pattern of Melrose. A stair
of 2S7 steps ascends to within a few feet of the top,
and roveals there a most magnificent bird's-eye view
of tho city. In each front of the monument, above
the archivolt of the basement, are six small niches,
— making a total of 24 there; and in the piers,
abutment-turrets, and other prominent positions
of the first and second stages are 32 others, — mak-
ing a total of 56 within clear view from the ground;
and all these were originally intended to be filled
with statuistic representations of the characters in
Scott's poems and novels. But as yet there are
statues of only Prince Charles Edward, Meg Merri-
lees, the Lady of the Lake, the Last Minstrel, and
George Heriot. Flights of steps from the ground
on all the four sides converge to a platform beneath
the four grand basement arches; and there on a
pedestal, with the figure of his dog Maida at his
l'eet, is a sitting statue, in Carrara marble, of Scott
himself. But the proportions and position of this
statue relatively to the vault around it are much too
small; causing the figure, though really large in
itself, to look almost dwarfish. The upper part of
the monument, also, though designed by Kemp in
perfect harmony with all the rest, and though figur-
ing in that harmony in all the prints of it which we
have seen, was so "drawn up" by order of the
Committee, for the poor reason of making it be
better seen from the near vicinity, as to render it
very inharmonious. The monument was founded
in 1840, and completed in 1844, and, exclusive of
the statue, cost £15,650. The statue was sculptured
by Steel, who received £2,000 for it; and was in-
augurated, with great pomp, in August, 1846.
Miscellaneous Buildings. — The Standard Insur-
ance Company's office, near the east end of George
street, has a neat attached portico, with surmount-
ing sculpture of the parable of the ten virgins. The
Caledonian insurance Company's office, in the same
street, has four beautiful Corinthian columns, with
massive entablature. The Life Association of Scot-
land office, in Prince's-street, is a superb edifice of
1855-8, in florid Roman style, so richly ornate as to
seem, at first sight, to be all a mass of colonnade
and sculpture. The New Club, adjoining this, be-
longing to an association of noblemen and gentle-
men, and enlarged in 1860, is a spacious elegant
edifice. Several insurance offices, besides those
we have named, particularly in George-street, and
St. Andrew's - square, and several of the hotels,
particularly in Prince's-street, St. Andrew's-square,
Queen-street, and Waterloo -place, are very fine
buildings. Multitudes of the shops and warerooms,
also, in all the transmuted parts of the New town,
are highly decorated. The passion for pillared
doorways, porticos, mouldings, sculptures, and
other ambitious ornamentations, which has been
displayed in the re-edifications and remodellings of
the last twenty- five years, is wonderful. Nor in
even the smallest colonnades has Tuscan or Doric
simplicity been often deemed sufficient; but either
Ionic grace or Corinthian finery, generally too with
good taste in the detail, has borne pre-eminence.
The necessity of refashioning old dwelling-houses
into new shops at the smallest possible cost, also,
has produced what may be called a new style in
street architecture, — covering over the area of the
sunk flats, projecting a new front to the first
story half-way across that area, and giving to
the new front an aspect of pretensiousness or
elegance, so as to make it appear to be related
to the old building in the same manner as a
porch or a verandah. The reconstructions of
this kind, however, are not always contiguous to
one another, and even when contiguous are of dif-
ferent projections and in different fashions; so that
the whole innovation is "a regular irregularity."
Many a range of building in the New town, and
many an entire street, are constructed on some plan
of a single facade; the uniformity in the architecture
being, not a monotony, but a symmetry, with great
diversity of detail, and part answering to part, us in
the facade of a single building. Rustication of the
basement story, isolated iron balconies on the next
story, and balustered parapets along the summit
pervade som.. places, such as Alva-street. Pil-
lared doorways, continuous iron balconies, and very
massive cornices pervade other places, such as
Regent-terrace. Massive pilasters, rising from the
top of the basement story, facing the next two
stories, and surmounted by an attic story, charac-
terise many chief divisions or conspicuous ranges,
such as the central divisions of Great King-street
and of the Royal circus. Massive attached columns,
variously Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian, collocated
sometimes in twos, sometimes in fours, and some-
times in sixes, rising from the top of the projected
basement story, facing the next two stories, and
surmounted by an attic story, characterise some
divisions, such as part of Albyn-place, great part of
Moray-place, and the greater part of the Royal-
terrace. The same features, but with the columns
standing, not on a projected basement, but in antis,
characterise other places, such as the arc at the
south-west extremity of Forres-street, the two arcs
at the south end of Windsor-street, and the two
arcs at the wide opening from Leith-walk leading
to respectively the Royal-terrace and the London-
road. The same features, but with the columns sur-
mounted by a pediment, or by a lofty entablature,
characterise other places, such as the central part ot
Albyn-place, the central part of Melville-street, and
the central part of the north and south sides of
Charlotte-square. True porticos in any similar re-
lative situation are more rare; yet three tetrastyle
Ionic ones occur respectively on the two west gables
of Waterloo-place, and on a gable above the low
houses of Blenheim-place looking toward the Royal-
terrace. Festoons and other florid tracery occur in
some places, such as Charlotte-square and Drum-
mond- place ; even massive pieces of sculpture are not
wanting, such as two great sphynxes on the summit
of the extremities of the north side of Charlotte-
square; and most of the minor kinds of Grasco-
Italian ornamentation, such as rusticated basements,
moulded architraves, window pediments, string-
courses, carved cornices, and various sorts of balus-
trades, are almost everywhere abundant.
The contrast to all this beauteous symmetry of
the New town displayed by the romantic irregularity
of the Old town, as it climbs all the central hill of
the city from Holyrood to the Castle, is ever regarded
by the eye of both stranger and denizen as one of
the most remarkable characters of Edinburgh.
Every part of the contrast is wonderful, — whether
in the east, where the terraces of the New town on
the face of the Calton-hill look down upon the
masses of the Old huddled wildly together on the
cliff-screened hollow, — or in the middle, where the
two towns are not far from being on a common
level, with only the North loch valley yawning be-
tween,— or in the west, where the streets and
squares and vistas of the New, back even to long
distances down its own northward slope, look up to
the soaring structures of the Old, beetling far aloft
in broken skyline, and appearing, in certain states
of the weather, as if they belonged to a city in the
clouds. One striking new feature in the view is
the range of houses along Cockburn-street, in the
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old Scottish baronial style, curving up the ascent
from the end of Waveiiey bridge to the middle of
High-street ; and another is the large, lofty, impos-
ing pile of the Free church offices, in a florid variety
of the same style, erected in 1859-61, on the site of
buildings destroyed by fire in 1857, immediately
east of the Free church college. The destroyed
buildings were the western half of a vast, plain,
uniform range, no less than nine stories high, the
eastern half of which still stands. The entire range
formed the back of James'-court, on a steep decliv-
ity, the south front several stories less than the
north one, yet all on a higher level than the tops of
the highest houses in the confronting part of the
New town, soaring clear up on the hill, with not
the slightest break to the view between it and
Prince's-street ; and, in that connexion, it acquired
a curious and unique celebrity. " Entering one of
the doors opposite the main entrance, the stranger
is sometimes led by a friend, wishing to afford him
an agreeable surprise, down flight after flight of the
steps of a stone staircase; and when he imagines
he is descending so far into the bowels of the earth,
he emerges on the edge of a cheerful, crowded thor-
oughfare, with the North loch valley and the New
town spread before him, — a contrast to the gloom
from which he has emerged."
James'-court is entered from Lawnmarket ; was
built in 1727 as a fashionable quarter; and continued
till the founding of the New town to be highly aris-
tocratic. Several ancient closes which it supplanted
contained residences of nobles and judges ; and sev-
eral still extant in the Lawnmarket still contain
houses of remarkable note. Baxter's-close, for ex-
ample, contains one which belonged to the Countess
of Elgin, the governess of the Princess Charlotte ;
Lady Stair's-close contains one in which the Dowa-
ger Countess of Stair long presided over the fashion-
able circles of Edinburgh; Riddle's-close contains
one in which Bailie Macmoran entertained at his
table James VII. and his queen ; and Dunbar's-
close contains some which were the headquarters of
Cromwell's army after the battle of Dunbar. A
number of closes in the High-street also, parti-
cularly Stamp - office, Fleshmarket, Fishmarket,
Bishop's, and Strichen's closes, Milne-square, and
Blackfriars'-wynd, have quondam residences of no-
blemen, judges, and bishops; while others, such
as Anchor - close, Covenant -close, and Carrub-
ber's-close, contain houses which were famous in
other ways. The Cowgate likewise has still
the palace of Cardinal Beaton, where the citizens
gave a feast to Queen Mary on her return from
France ; the Mint-house, in whose great hall a
banquet was given to the Danish ambassadors who
came to Scotland with Queen Anne; the mansion of
Sir Thomas Hope, the King's advocate, and leader
of the Covenanters in the reign of Charles I. ; and
the Tailors' hall, in which a great meeting of
citizens, clergymen, gentry, and nobles was held on
the 27th of February, 1638, preparatory to the sign-
ing of the Solemn League and Covenant next day
in Greyfriars' church.
Educational Edifices.
The University. — The edifice of the Edinburgh
university presents its main front to South Bridge-
street, and forms an entire side respectively of North
College-street, West College-street, and South Col-
lege-street. It is a regular parallelogram, 358 feet
long and 255 wide, extending its length east and
west, and having in the centre a veiy spacious
court. The main front is of exquisite proportions,
in superb Grecian architecture; but, in common
with the entire building, is so pent up by the pres-
sure of the street that it can nowhere be seen to ad
vantage. Were the edifice situated in a large park,
particularlyupon a rising ground, it would appear
almost sublime, and be without a parallel among
the modem edifices of Scotland; but situated as it
is, it makes, upon the mind of a stranger, in its
exterior views at least, impressions chiefly of be-
wilderment and confusion. The building comprises
four stories of very unequal height, — the basement
one rusticated, the second well adorned with window
mouldings, the third similar to the second, but
neither so high nor so well adorned, and the fourth
an attic. The entrance is through the main front
on the east, by three lofty archwa3's, the side ones
for pedestrians and the central one for carriages. A
grand Doric portico, of two wings and a centre,
adorns the entrance; the two wings having eacli
two columns, and covering the side archways, and
the centre recessed, and having two attached
columns, — all the six columns of equal elevation,
and each 26 feet high and formed of a single block
of stone. Over the summit of the front, directly
above the. portico, forming what was originally in-
tended as the front part of the basement of a dome,
is a large stone entablature, with the following in-
scription: " Academia Jacobi VI. Scotorum Regis
anno post Christum natum m,d,lxxxii instituta; an-
noque m,dcc,lxxxix. renovari coepta; regnante
Georgio III. Principe munificentissimo; Urbis Ed-
inensis Praefecto Thoma Elder; Academise Pri-
mario Gulielmo Robertson. Architecto Roberto
Adam."
The continuous range of building round the in-
ner court is in a very tasteful Grecian style; and
has an elegant stone balustrade, forming a kind of
gallery, which is interrupted only by the entrance,
and by flights of steps to the library, the museum,
the hall of the Senatus Academicus, and the several
class-rooms. At the angles, and on the west side,
are spacious piazzas. The library occupies a large
portion of the south side, includes a noble hall 198
feet long and 50 broad, with a beautiful roof of
stucco-work, and contains about 91,000 books, be-
sides some manuscripts, and a collection of antiqui-
ties, sculptures, and articles of vertu. Accessions
to its books are obtained by means of an annual sum
of £575 from government, £1 a-year from each
student at his matriculation, £5 from each professor
at his induction, and certain contributions from the
members of the college of surgeons. About 800
volumes, on the average, are added every year.
The library was founded in 1580, in a bequest
of books by Mr. Clement Little, an advocate
in Edinburgh, "for the use of the citizens;"
but it came eventually to be regarded as an
exclusive institution confined entirely to the uni-
versity; and a recent report upon it says, — " As
the main object of it is to serve as an auxiliary to
academical study, and as the collection is not more
than adequate to supply the demands made upon
it by professors, students, and members of the
college of surgeons, all of whom are contributors to
the funds, there cannot be any considerable pro-
vision for the accommodation of strangers. But
literary gentlemen, or others, who have occasion to
consult or to borrow hooks, on application to the
curators or to individual professors willing to be
responsible for them, are allowed every facility." —
The museum, situated on the west side, occupies
two rooms, each 90 feet by 30, on separate floors,
together with contiguous galleries and small apart-
ments; and contains about 950 specimens of mam-
mifers, one of the best collections of birds in the
world, and large collections of insects, shells, corals,
and minerals. — A national industrial museum, of
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539
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great extent and much value, was organized about
the year 1854; has been temporarily deposited in
old neighbouring buildings, in Argyle-square ; and
will bo transferred to an elegant large edifice adja-
cent to the north-west corner of the college, founded
in 1861 by the late Prince Consort, and planned on
adinirablo arrangements, and estimated to cost
£41,200. — The music class-room was originally in
the college, but has now an edifice to itself, spacious
and handsome, in Park-place, a brief distance to
the south-west.
The original college buildings were both un-
sightly and incommodious. Part of the ground be-
longing to them was alienated to form South Col-
lege-street; and the proceeds of this, together with
the proceeds of other property, and the proceeds of
special public subscriptions, were set apart by the
magistrates toward the erection of the new edifice,
— which, with more zeal for the celebrity of their
city than prudential regard to the extent of their
resources, thev resolved should be in a style of
superb magnificence. This was founded in 1789;
and though, for a brief period, it was briskly carried
forward, it had even the front part finished with
difficulty, and stood in its slender and fragmentary
state about twenty years, the monument of com-
bined vanity, rashness, and poverty. But Govern-
ment having, in 1815, resolved to expend £10,000
a-year upon it till it should be completed, it was a
second time set in progress, and advanced, through
intermediate years and by successive additions, to
a finished state in 1834. The original part was
constructed after the original design by Adam; but
the other parts, and particularly the interior facades,
after a modification of that design by Playfair.
The University originated in a bequest of 8,000
merks by Robert Eeid, Bishop of Orkney, before the
Reformation. The magistrates, who were vested
with power to found it, purchased, in 1563, the
ground on which it stands ; but, in consequence of
opposition from the prelates of St. Andrews and
Aberdeen, were not able, till 1581, to make a fair
commencement. But previous to that date they
had, by a remote grant from Queen Mary, and a
confirmed and immediate one from James VI., re-
ceived, towards its erection and support, all the
houses belonging to the religious foundations within
the city. James VI. besides, watched over the in-
fant institution with paternal care, and endowed it
with church-lands, tithes, and other immunities. In
1583, it was opened for the labours of a single pro-
fessor, the amiable Robert Rollock ; and, in 1597, it
acquired a second professorship, and was presided
over by Rollock as principal. The original building
was a tenement which had belonged first to the
provost and canons of the Kirk of Fields, and next,
as a residence to the Earl of Arran. In 1617, a
college-hall and several apartments for classes were
erected. In 1685, it had risen to possess 8 professor-
ships, and was currently attended by a large body
of students. Previous to the Revolution, it was dis-
turbed and degraded by the contests of faction ; but
since that event, it has enjoyed quietude, and been
marked by the calm destitution of incident peculiar
to a well-managed seat of learning. In 1720, the
study of medicine was introduced to its curriculum,
and rapidly promoted its prosperity, till it eventually
won for the university the proudest name in Europe.
No college probably can boast of a longer or more
brilliant array of eminent men, whether as professors
or alumni. So numerous have been the men, in the
walks of medicine, of metaphysics, of polite and
classical literature, and of the various physical
sciences, who, from 1720, have shed lustre over it
by their genius and their fame, that a mere list of
their names is nearly incompatible with the limits
of condensed narrative.
An idea of the progress of the university may be
formed by glancing at the names, dates, and emolu-
ments of its chairs. These are, — the principalship,
1585, £700; humanity, 1597, £687 ; divinity, 1620,
£637; Hebrew and oriental languages, 1642, £400;
mathematics, 1674, £698; botany, 1676, £880; in-
stitutes of medicine, 1685, £640; practice of physic,
1685, £465; divinity and church history, 1695, £445;
anatomy, 1705, £1,900; public law, 1707, £350;
Greek, 1708, £737 ; natural philosophy, 1708, £622 ;
moral philosophy, 1708, £502 ; logic and metaphy-
sics, 1708, £672; civil law, 1710, £375; chemistry
and chemical pharmacy, 1713, £1,310; history, 1719,
£230; Scottisli law, 1722, £505; midwifery and dis-
eases of women and children, 1726, £550; clinical
medicine, 1741; rhetoric and English literature,
1741, £410; natural history, 1767, £765; dietetics,
materia medica, and pharmacy, 1768, £556; prac-
tical astronomy, 1786, £300; agriculture, 1790,
£150; clinical surgery, 1803, £550; military sur-
gery, 1806; medical jurisprudence and police, 1807,
£410; conveyancing, 1825, £535; surgery, 1831,
£550; general pathology, 1831, £445; music, 1839,
£420; biblical criticism and biblical antiquities,
1846, £767. The emoluments, as now stated, are
those fixed by the University commissioners in
November 1861 ; and they include the estimated
amounts of fees, but are exclusive of allowances for
assistants and for class expenses. The patronage
of fifteen of the chairs, with part of that of six others,
was formerly held by the town-council of Edinburgh,
but, under the University act of 1858, was trans-
ferred to seven curators, four of them chosen by the
town-council, and three by the University court.
That of nine is held by the Crown ; that of one, by
the University court; that of another, by the Crown
and the curators; that of two by the faculty of ad-
vocates and the curators; that of one, by the society
of writers to the signet and the curators; and that
of two, by the lords of session, other parties, and
the curators. The chief officers are a chancellor,
chosen by the general council ; a rector, chosen by
the matriculated students; a principal, chosen by
the curators; and five assessors, chosen by respec-
tively the chancellor, the town-council, the rector,
the general council, and the senatus academicus.
The university court consists of the rector, the prin-
cipal, the lord provost of Edinburgh, and the five
assessors. The senatus academicus consists of the
principal and the professors. The general council
meets twice a-year, on the first Tuesday after the
14th of April, and on the last Friday of October.
The winter session opens in the beginning of No-
vember, and closes in the end of April; the summer
session opens in the beginning of May, and closes
in the end of July. The number of members of the
general council, in 1861, was 2,276 ; of matriculated
students, about 1,411 ; of students who graduated in
arts, 62, — who graduated in medicine, 67. Honorary
degrees have always been charily given, and are in
higher estimation than those in some other univer-
sities. The bursaries are 80, and yield £1,172 a-year.
Medical Sdwols. — On the east side of Nicotson-
street, a short distance south of the university,
stands Surgeon's hall, or the hall of the royal col-
lege of surgeons. It is a large, modem, Ionic
building, one of the most elegant edifices in the city,
and cost about £20,000. Its character is purely
Grecian; and its general appearance that of an
ancient temple. Its street front is principally
covered with a hexastyle portico, the base continu-
ous, and serving also as a curtain-wall, the columns
fluted, and the frieze and tympanum filled with
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sculpture. The entrance from the street is by two
pedimented door-ways at the ends of the curtain-
wall. The interior contains apartments for meet-
ings, tastefully-fitted galleries, and large, valuable,
medical museums. The royal college of surgeons
dates from 177S, or, through a previous body, from
1505. It maintains courses of lectures, issues di-
plomas, and serves as a coadjutor to the medical
faculty of the university. Its winter course of lec-
tures comprises surgery, chemistry, physiology,
medical jurisprudence, clinical medicine, clinical
surgery, anatomy, pathology, and practice of phy-
sic; and the summer course includes some of these,
and adds midwifery, botany, natural philosophy,
histology, insanity, history of medicine, dental sur-
gery, venereal diseases, and surgical appliances.
Both this body and that noticed in next paragraph
are recognized in the Medical act of 1858.
In Qiieen-street, midway between Hanover-street
and St. David's-street, stands Physicians' hall, or
the hall of the royal college of physicians. This
body was incorporated so early as 1681. They have
an exclusive privilege of practising medicine within
certain old limits of Edinburgh, and are charged
with the public duty of preventing the sale of adul-
terated drugs; and, though not supporting the
medical schools of the city in a direct manner,
they support them so strongly in an indirect man-
ner, as to be well entitled to high notice in con-
nexion with them. A previous hall of theirs stood
on the site now occupied by the Commercial bank.
It was an edifice of much beauty, built in 1775,
three stories high, purely Grecian, with a tetrastyle
Corinthian portico. The present edifice was built
in 1845, from designs by Mr. T. Hamilton. It has
a Corinthian portico of unique character, comprising
successively a tetrastyle, an entablature, a distyle,
an entablature, and a pediment. The columns of the
tetrastyle are of the rare quasi-Corinthian kind
which some architects call the Attic order. On the
summit of the ends of the first entablature are
statues of Esculapius and Hippocrates, and behind
the apex of the pediment is a statue of Hygeia, all
sculptured by A. H. Eitchie. The building con-
tains a select library, a good museum, and a fine
hall for the meetings of the fellows.
In Clyde-street stands the modern, three-story,
Doric building of the veterinary and zoiatric college.
This institution was established in 1818, and has
lectures, in seven classes, by five professors, on veteri-
nary medicine and surgery, chemistry and veterinary
materia medica, zoological anatomy and demonstra-
tions, microscopic zootomy and pathology, practical
chemistry, practical pharmacy, and clinical instruc-
tion. The session extends from the early part of
November till the end of April. — In Lothian-road
are the premises of the new veterinary college,
established in 1857. This college has lectures in
nine classes, by six professors, on nearly the same
subjects as the others, and on botany and shoeing.
The winter session commences in the beginning of
November; the summer session in the beginning of
May.
Art Schools. — On the north end of the Mound,
presenting shorter fronts to Hanover- street and the
Old town, and longer ones to the views along
Prince's -street, stands the magnificent oblong edi-
fice called the Eoyal institution. This is but partly
an art school, — being at the same time devoted to
some other purposes; yet it ranks better here than
with any other class of buildings. It was founded
in 1823, and completed according to a design by
Playfair at the cost of £40,000. It stands on a sub-
structure of wooden piles and cross-bearers, ren-
dered necessary by the ground being travelled earth,
and formed at the cost of upwards of £1,600. The
edifice is purely Grecian, grandly Doric, and nearly
of the character of what the architects call a per-
ipteral temple; all its four fronts being faced, to
their whole height, with fluted Doric columns, rest-
ing on flights of steps, and surmounted by an uni-
form entablature. The north front, which is the
chief one, has a portico with three lines of columns;
the first line and the second line containing each
eight columns, but the third line containing only
two, so as to render the entire arrangement what is
called pseudo-tripteral. The south front has a pro-
jection exactly similar to this portico, but neither so
far nor so full, comprising only two lines of columns,
the first with eight columns, and the second with
four in antis. The two flanks, or east and west
fronts, are precisely alike; each of them having at
each end a distyle projection, and between the two
projections seventeen columns. The walls, at the
intercolumniations, are pierced with windows; the
summit of the north front, as we noticed in a former
section, is crowned with a colossal statue of
Queen Victoria and with sphynxes; and the summit
of the corresponding part of the south also has
sphvnxes. The building contains the apartments
of the royal institution for the encouragement of
the fine arts, which has also the administration of
the Spalding fund for the support of aged and de-
cayed artists; the apartments of the Board of trus-
tees for the encouragement of arts, fisheries, and
manufactures; a gallery of casts from the antique,
for the use of students attending the school of de-
sign ; the museum of the society of antiquaries of
Scotland, gratuitously open to the public; and the
apartments of the Eoyal society of Edinburgh, com-
prising library, museum, and select gallery. The
school of design has a salaried staff of director's, two
preceptors, and a lecturer.
The edifice of the Art galleries stands on the
central and southern parts of the Mound. It was
founded witli great ceremony, in August 1850, by
the late Prince Consort, and did not arrive at com-
pletion till 1858. Immense excavations had to be
made, and substructions formed, for its site; and
very extensive collateral improvements were done
for "harmonizing it with the Mound, and for harmo-
nizing both the Mound and it with the surrounding
scenery. The object in erecting it was to provide
suitable accommodation for the annual exhibition
of the Scottish royal academy, for the extension
of the school of design, for the better preserving
and rendering more useful the gallery of casts in
the Eoyal institution, and for the instituting of a
Scottish national gallery of painting and sculpture.
The edifice is about the same width as the Eoyal
institution, but nearly a third longer; it also ex-
tends north and south, but has large projections at
the centre, so as to be, not strictly oblong, but cru-
ciform. The north and the south fronts are exactly
alike; but the former is in a great degree hidden
from all distant view by the Eoyal institution, while
the latter stands so low relatively to the roadway
above it as to seem almost to be in a pit. The
flanks, however, are everywhere conspicuous to all
points, high and low, whence the Mound itself can
be seen. Each front, north and south, is com-
pletely faced with an Ionic portico of two projecting
wings and a centre; each wing having four columns
and a pediment, the centre having two columns in
antis and a balustrade. The projecting part of
each flank is faced with a hexastyle Ionic portico;
and the other parts of the flanks are little else than
dead wall, poorly relieved by bald pilasters, and by
a balustered parapet. The interior arrangements
for exhibition are all octagonal, and lighted entirely
EDINBURGH.
541
EDINBURGH.
from above. The estimated cost of tlie edifice, in-
elusive of the site and of the concomitant improve-
ments, was £40,000.
The western suite of apartments in the Art gal-
leries is occupied by the national gallery of painting
and sculpture, open to the public, five of charge ;
and the eastern suite is set apart for the annual ex-
hibition of the Royal Scottish academy of painting,
sculpture, and architecture, held from February to
May. — A hall in George-street is used for the ordi-
nary meetings of the Royal Scottish society of arts;
who, though they have no public lectures, yet give
from time" to time expositions on interesting sub-
jects connected with the _ useful arts. — A plain
building, with a large hall, in Adam-square, belongs
to the Watt institution and school of arts, which
has a public library, two lecturers on respectively
chemistry and mechanical philosophy, and teachers
of respectively mathematics, the French language,
the structure of the English language, ornamental
modelling, and architectural, mechanical, and orna-
mental scroll drawing, serving altogether as an
academy of arts, science, and literature to the oper-
ative classes. — In Lothian-road is the building of
the Eoyal academy for teaching exercises, better
known as the Riding school. It is a large hand-
some edifice, and contains suites of apartments, some
of which are rented by the Scottish military and
naval academy. The Riding-school is superin-
tended by 2 masters, and governed by 7 directors. —
The military and naval academy has no fewer than
12 or 13 teachers, is governed by 27 extraordinary,
and 14 ordinary directors, with chairman and trus-
tees, and affords, in addition to technical tuition
for the navy and army, a circle of instruction in
several of the fine arts, in science, in foreign lan-
guages, and in general literature.
Classical Schools. — On the south face of Calton-
hill, a little above the line of Regent- road, stands
the High-school. This building is worthy of its
magnificent site; and while it commands one of the
richest of town and country landscapes of Edin-
burgh and its environs, is itself a beautiful feature
of the scenery with which it is grouped. It is
built of pure white stone, and consists of a central
part and two wings, extending about 270 feet in
front. The central building shows a pediment ad-
vanced upon a range of Doric columns; and the
end buildings are nearly flat-roofed and of plain
architecture, but connected with the central build-
ing by open colonnaded corridors. The entire edi-
fice pleases and delights the eye as much perhaps
as any single erection in the metropolis. A spaci-
ous flight of steps leads up to it from the enclosing
wall in front; though the access in use is by a gate-
way on a higher level considerably to the west, and
a fine play-ground intervenes thence to the en-
trances to the various class-rooms. The interior is
distributed into a large hall, 7.3 feet by 43, — a
rector's class-room, 38 feet by 38, — 4 class-rooms
for masters, each 38 feet by 28, — a room for a
library,.— and two small rooms attached to each of
the class-rooms. On the margin of the road-Way,
on a lower site than the main building, are two
neat lodges, two stories high; the one occupied bv
the janitor, and the other containing class-rooms, re-
spectively 36 feet by 18, and 40 feet by 18, for writing
and practical mathematics. The area of the school
and play-ground is two acres, and was formed into
a level by deep cutting in the face of the hill. The
edifice was founded in 1825, amid pompous proces-
sional pageantry; and cost, with its appurtenances,
about £30,000. There are a rector and four classical
teachers, each of the teachers carrying a class round
a circle of four years of progressive study, and then
receiving a new class. Except small allowances
from the town council, the fees constitute the salary,
and are 15s. a quarter for the masters' classes, and
1 6s. for the finishing or maturing class of the
rector. — The High-school is traceable under the
name of the High grammar-school, as far back as
1519. In 1578, when the magistrates had, for a
while, made vain efforts to found an university, a
school-house of respectable capacity, was erected
on the grounds which now form the termination of
Infirmary-street, or lie between that termination
and Surgeon's-square. In 1777, a new and neat
and commodious edifice was reared on the site of
the old; but, owing to the plebeian character of its
vicinity, and the inodorous and perhaps unhealthy
associations of its locality, it became distasteful to
the citizens of the New town, and continued to sink
in estimation proportionally to the growing exten
sion and the rising attractions of that successful
rival of the ancient city.
North of Henderson-row, near the water of Leith,
is the Edinburgh academy, of similar character and
design to the High-school. The edifice is a low,
neat, Doric structure, built after a design by Mr.
Burn, at the cost of about £12,000, having a large
fine play-ground in front, and constructed with re-
ference more to interior commodiousness than to
exterior display, yet not unsuited in appearance to
the architecturally opulent district in its neighbour-
hood. The academy was founded in 1823, by a
society who had, by proprietary shares of £50 each,
a capital of .£12,900, capable of being augmented to
£16,000. It is more aristocratic in its plan than the
High-school, or rather is conducted on principles
which render it less accessible to the children of the
middle classes, and has a longer period of study and
larger fees, — the former being 7 years, and the
latter £7 for the first year, £9 for the second, £11
for the third, and £11 10s. for each of the succeed-
ing years. There are a rector, four masters for
classics, and eight or nine for other departments.
— Several other seminaries for a conjointly classical
and general education have each a large staff of
masters; but even the most conspicuous one of
them, bearing par excellence the name of the Edin-
burgh institution, and ostensibly competing, though
on a plan of its own, with the Edinburgh academy
and the High-school, has no better an edifice than
a plain commodious house in Queen-street, built
originally for a private residence.
Elementary School). — The normal school, belong-
ing to the Established church, is a large handsome
edifice, in Castle-place, erected in 1845, at the cost
of about £8,500, containing not only class-rooms
and other appliances for a large attendance of
pupils, but also dormitories for male students, and
having a fine play-ground attached. This institu-
tion embraces a wide range of training, and is con-
ducted by a rector, three masters, two tutors, and
five teachers. — The normal school belonging to the
Free church is an exactly similar institution, in
Moray-house, Canongate. — Several of the parish
schools, the Free church schools, and the other
public schools, such as the Lancasterian and Bell's,
have school-houses remarkable either for commodi
ousness, for elegance, or for both.
Eight very commodious and handsome buildings,
for the gratuitous education of the poor children of
deceased burgesses, freemen, and poor citizens of
Edinburgh, have been erected by the governors of
Heriot's Hospital, in respectively Cowgate-port,
Heriot-bridge, Old-assembly-close, High-schonl-
vards, Brown - square, West Rose -street, and
Broughton-street. The one in Broughton-street is
the latest of the eight, and was built in 1S55 ;
EDINBUEGH.
542
EDINBUEGH.
and, though situated amid a tolerably fair display
of New-town architecture, is so ornate with ground
arcades, upper mouldings, and crowning statuary as
to be, in a mere architectural respect, a decided ac-
cession to the neighbourhood. The one in Cow-
gate-port was built in 1840, and looks like a jewel
in a setting of bogwood, or a flower-plot in the midst
of a putrid marsh. It has piazzas, towers, orna-
mented windows, and various other architectural
decorations; and situated in the most squalid dis-
trict of the metropolis, and existing for the benefit
of the poorest order of children, it seems, by the ex-
hibition of its beauties as a foil to the deformities
around it, to be a type of the transition which the
blessings of education may effect from ignorance
and filth, to mental polish and to elegance of char-
acter.
Museums, &c. — The Highland and Agricultural
society's museum is a massive, handsome, recent
edifice, standing isolated at the south comer of
Victoria-street and George IV.'s bridge. The door
is surmounted by an emblematical group of sculpture
by A. H. Ritchie; and all the internal arrangements
are admirably adapted to the display of the museum's
surpassingly rich and diversified contents.— There is
also a smaller agricultural museum in the college. —
Tlie antiquarian museum in the Royal institution,
contains Continental, Egyptian, Romano-Scottish,
early Scottish, and late Scottish antiquities, —
among the last, the maiden or guillotine, John
Knox's pulpit, the stool which Janet Geddes hurled
at the bishop of Edinburgh in St. Giles', some
colours earned by the Covenanters during the civil
war, and a specimen of the old iron bridle for tam-
ing the tongues of railers. — There is an interesting
recently constructed museum of vegetable wonders
in the botanic garden, — The museums of the uni-
versity, of Surgeon's hall, and of the Royal society,
have already been incidentally alluded to.
On a flat exposed piece of ground, on the summit
of the Calton-hill, north of the National monument,
stands the new observatory. It has the form of a
St. George's cross, 62 feet long each way. On each
of the four ends or terminations are six columns
supporting a handsome pediment. The centre is
surmounted by a dome, 13 feet in diameter, and has
a pillar rising up to the dome, 19 feet high, for the
astronomical circle. Near it, on the north-west
shoulder of Calton-hill, is the old observatory, a
plain, dingy building three stories high. — At the
head of Castle-street, contiguous to the reservoir,
is Short's observatory, a plain, large, lofty struc-
ture of 1855, furnished with attractions to visitors,
at a charge of a shilling.
On the lands of Inverleith, about half a mile
north of Canonmills, is the Royal botanic garden,
twelve acres in area, enclosed by high walls, and
transplanted from a former site in 1822-4. The sur-
face declines slightly to the south, and is disposed in
plots and promenades of great beauty and variety.
Within the area are the superintendent's house, the
museum, the lecture-room, extensive hot-houses
suited variously to the plants of all climes, a spaci-
ous palm-house, an aquarium, a Linnsean arrange-
ment, a Jussieuan arrangement, and many beautiful
groupings of trees and shrubs. — Contiguous to the
botanic garden on the south is the experimental
garden of the Caledonian horticultural society.
This has an area of eight acres, — the surface un-
dulatingly diversified and very tastefully applotted;
and it contains superintendent's house, several hot-
houses, and a variety of open departments for re-
spectively culinary plants, fruits, flowers, and orna-
mental shrubs. — On the lands of Broughton, opening
from the north end of Claremont-street, were the
zoological gardens, tastefully laid out in promenades
and flower-plots, containing for a number of years a
tolerable collection of quadrupeds, birds, and rep-
tiles, and frequently let out for temporary exhibi-
tions entirely alien in character from every thing
connected with zoology, but found to be uncompen-
sating, and abolished in 1860.
The residences or haunts of persons who have
figured prominently in literature may be noted here
for want of a more suitable place; for, though in
no sense schools, they act so suggestively on the
mind as to be surely educational. The early poets,
Dunbar, Gawin Douglas, and Sir David Lindsay,
as also some early distinguished prose writers, were
long resident in Edinburgh, and stand associated
generally with the existing memorials of the ancient
city. The poet Gay was for some time a resident,
under the hospitality of Lady Catherine Hyde, in
Queensberry-house. William Fowler, secretary to
Anne of Denmark, and a poet, lived in a house still
standing in the Anchor-close, High-street. Drum-
mond of Hawthomden, one of the finest of the
cavalier poets, figured in intimate connection with
the original college of the city. Allan Ramsay
lived at the head of Castle-street, and has be-
queathed his name to Ramsay-lane which now leads
off thence to the head of the Mound. Goldsmith,
when studying medicine at the university of Edin-
burgh, lodged in College-wynd. Boswell, the bio-
grapher of Johnson, lived in James'-court, and enter-
tained there that lion of literature on his way to the
Hebrides, and also Paoli the patriot Corsican chief.
Hume, the historian, lived for some time in the
same neighbourhood, but finished his days in the
house at the south-west corner of St. Andrew's-
square; where he gave a farewell dinner, toward
the close of his life, to a select company of Edin-
burgh literati, comprising Lord Elibank, Professor
Fergusson, Dr. Blair, Adam Smith, Dr. Black the
famous chemist, and Home the author of Douglas.
Thomas Campbell, while engaged in writing his
' Pleasures of Hope,' lived in an obscure house in
Alison -square, Potter-row; and Grahame, the poet
of the Sabbath, stands associated, as visitor at least,
with the same house. Mrs. Maclehose, the Cla-
rinda of Burns, lived in a decayed mansion, origin-
ally the residence of the second Earl of Stair, in a
dismal old court, called General's-entry, near the
junction of Potter-row and Bristo-street. Fergus-
son, the poet, died in a forlorn house in the same
neighbourhood, originally the office of the famous
Darien enterprize, but, at the time of the poet's
death, a pauper lunatic asylum. Bums, during his
brief residence in Edinburgh, when he enacted his
part of "Sylvander," resided in the house No. 30 at
the south-west comer of St. James'-square. Sir
Walter Scott was born at the head of College-wynd,
resided for some time with his father in George-
square, and afterwards had his own town-house for
many years at 39 CastleTStreet. Macvey Napier,
the great editor, afterwards resided in the same
house in Castle^street, Lord Brougham's father
lived for some time in a house still standing in
Cowgate ; but afterwards removed to the house at
the north-west corner of St. Andrew's-square; and
there Lord Brougham was bom. Lord Jeffrey long
had his town residence at 24 Moray-place.
Bcnevolential Edifices.
Sanative Asylums. — The Royal infirmary, built
during the reign of George II., stands on the south
side of Infirmary-street. The edifice consists of a
body and two projecting wings, all four stories high,
substantially built, and abundantly perforated with
windows. The body is 210 feet long, and, in the
EDINBURGH.
543
EDINBURGH.
central part, 36 foot wido, — in tho end parts, 24 feet.
Kach of the wings is 70 feet long, and 24 wide. The
central part of tho body projects from the main line,
and is elegant in its architecture; a range of
columns, being surmounted by a cornice, whence
arises a curiously adorned attic structure, bearing
aloft a glazed turret. Betwcon the columns are two
tablets with sacred inscriptions; and in a recess
above the entrance, is a statue of George II. in a
Roman dress. The access to the different floors is
by a large staircase in the centre of the building,
so spacious as to admit the transit of sedan chairs,
and by two smaller staircases, one at each end. The
Hoorsare distributed into wards, fitted up with ranges
of beds capable of accommodating 228 patients,
— the smaller rooms for the nurses and the medical
attendants, — a manager's room, a waiting-room for
students, and a consulting-room for the physicians
or surgeons. Two of the wards, devoted to patients
whose cases are considered most curious and in-
structive, are set apart for clinical lectures, attended
by students of surgery, and delivered by the pro-
fessors of clinical medicine in the university.
Within the attic, in the centre of the building, is a
spacious apartment formerly used as a theatre for
surgical operations. The house has separate wards
for male and female patients, and contains about
400 beds. The infirmary was first contemplated in
1725 by the royal college of physicians, but was
encouraged by only a very small portion of the
clergy or influential population; and, in 1729, it was
commenced on quite a tiny scale, with the pitiful
capital of £2,000. In 1736, the contributors to it
having begun to be somewhat appreciated, were in-
corporated by royal charter. The Earl of Hope-
toun, during the last 25 years of his life, when the
institution was young and of slender means, contri-
buted to it £400 a-year. In 1750, Dr. Archibald
Ker of Jamaica, bequeathed to it an estate worth
£200 a-year. In 1755, the Lords of the Treasury
gave it £8,000. But the institution owed most to
George Drummond, Esq., who was seven times
Lord-provost; and a bust of him, by Nollekins, was
afterwards set up by the directors in the hall. Other
extensive buildings are connected with the institu-
tion, and serve variously as fever, lock, and surgi-
cal hospitals. One is the old High school, another
the old hall of the college of Surgeons, another a
neat new structure of 1855 ; and they stand in a
large area, extending eastward to the back of Pleas-
ance, and separated on the south from Drummond-
street by the old city wall, cut down to half its
height, and frilled with an iron railing. The number
of patients treated in the infirmary is about 3.500 a-
year. The annual expenditure is about £11,000;
and the income is derived mainly from voluntary con-
tributions, and partly from property estimated to be
worth about £26,000, exclusive of buildings which
do not yield any revenue.
Sciennes-house, in the suburb of Grange, is used
for male convalescents, and a house in West Pres-
ton-street, for female convalescents, from the infir-
mary, till they are able to go home. — Minto house,
in Argyle-square, originally the town-residence of
the Earls of Minto, was converted, in 1829, into a
surgical hospital for paying patients, and became af-
terwards a lying-in hospital; but is now a training
institution of the Scottisli Episcopal church. — There
is still, in the city, a lying-in hospital ; there are
also three institutions for delivering poor married
women at their own houses ; and there are an hos-
pital for sick children, an institution for the relief of
incurables, several public general dispensaries, and
a public eye infirmary. — The Eoyal lunatic asy-
lum, at Morningside, about a mile south-south-west I
of Edinburgh, is partly a large edifice of 1810-3,
partly an extensive addition about 40 years later,
jointly costing upwards of £80,000 ; and it has
accommodation for from 500 to 600 persons, and pos-
sesses all the most approved arrangements, and
fine contiguous garden grounds.
Refuge Asylums. — Queensberry-house, in the
Canongate, is used as a temporary pauper home of
houseless wanderers and as a pauper night asylum. —
Another place also, in Old Fishmarket close, off
the High-street, is used as a pauper night asylum.
— The Victoria lodging-houses in Cowgate, Mer-
chant-street, and Westport are establishments
maintained by a benevolent association for giving a
lodger a comfortable bed and the use of kitchen,
cooking-utensels, sitting-room, and library for three
pence per night. — The metropolitan lodging-house
in Grassmarket is an establishment exactly similar
to the Victoria lodging-houses, but with a scale of
charges, and an appendage of reading-room and
baths. — The Shelter, in Grassmarket, is a house for
the reception of young women who, having thrown
themselves loose from society or been in prison, are
desirous to be reclaimed. — The Magdalen asylum,
within a court off the Canongate, and the Alnwick-
Hill industrial home, near Liberton, are used
for the refuge and reformation of prostitutes. —
The Dean-bank and Boroughmoor-head institutions
are maintained for the reformation of juvenile female
delinquents.
School Asylums. — In Nicolson-street are two build-
ings, both originally private houses, fitted up the
one in 1806, the other in 1822, as asylums for re-
spectively the adult male and the adult female blind.
Instruction is given in trades, in religion, and in
general education. The inmates vary in number
from 90 to 100; all are industriously employed; and
nearly one third of the males are married. — A house
in Gayfield-square, also originally a private resi-
dence, is an asylum school for blind children of both
sexes, from 6 to 14 years of age.— North of Hender-
son-row, and near the Edinburgh academy, is the
institution for the deaf and dumb, instituted in 1810.
The building, raised by subscription, is large, com-
modious, and of not unpleasing appearance ; and
the system of training so excellent as to have been
a model for similar institutions in other cities. — In
St. John's-street is the house of industry and ser-
vants' home, where girls of 14 years of age and up-
wards are trained to be servants, and where respect-
able young women out of place enjoy a temporary
retreat, where also is a school attached for both
girls and boys. — Two other institutions may be
mentioned here, rivals to each other, yet in a peculiar
sphere, entirely schools in one sense, yet emphati-
cally asylums in another, asylums at once refugial,
educational, and reformatory, and serving at the
same time as a grand example of benevolence which
has begun to be well followed in some other large
towns. These are the Edinburgh original ragged
or industrial school and the United industrial school
of Edinburgh, both instituted in 1847.
Workhouses. — The city workhouse stands within
a high-wall enclosure on the west side of Forrest-
road, contiguous to the grounds of Heriot's hospital.
The original part of it was built in 1743, and other
parts within comparatively recent years. The
whole exhibits neat separate offices immediately
within the gates, and a huge barrack-looking mass
behind, four stories high, very spacious, and of the
plainest possible aspect, with the old part very
dingy. The accommodation originally was for 450
persons, together with a children's hospital for 220;
but was eventually increased first to 691, and then
to 909. The number of inmates at midsummer
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1850 was 627; and at midsummer 1860, it was 514.
The city parochial board for the poor comprises a
body of 34 managers, and three departments of
officials, — respectively the office department, the
house department, and the medical department.
The St. Cuthbert's workhouse stands in an area
to the west of Lothian road. The original part of
it was built in 1762 ; other parts were added at dif-
ferent periods previous to 1845; and the whole was
altered and enlarged in 1853, at the cost in that
year of £4,500. The number of inmates at mid-
summer 1850 was 554; and the number at midsum-
mer 1860 was 469. The board connected with it
comprises 45 heritors, 6 members of session, and 30
elected managers, and has a numerous and varied
staff of functionaries. — The Canongate workhouse
stands at the foot of a wynd behind the Canongate
tolbooth. It contains accommodation for 160 per-
sons, and had 70 inmates at midsummer 1860. Its
board of management is numerous and has five
salaried functionaries.
Boys' Hospitals. — Heriot's hospital, situated on
the summit of the southern ridge of Edinburgh, and
surrounded by a spacious area or open park, with
a main gateway from Laurieston, and an everyday
thoroughfare from Grassmarket, is a magnificent
and even princely structure. The edifice was com-
menced in 1628, and finished in 1650, at the cost of
£30,000. It is the finest and most regular of the
specimens of Gothic architecture designed by Inigo
Jones. It is a noble quadrangle, 162 feet each way
in the exterior, having an open court measuring 94
feet each way in the centre. This court is paved
with square stones, and has a fountain in the cen-
tre ; and is decorated, on the north and east sides,
with piazzas GJ feet broad, and, on the second stoiy
of the north side, with an effigy of the founder,
placed in a niche. Over the gateway of the edifice,
which is on the north side, fronting the Grassmarket,
is a tower, projecting from the main line, surmounted
by a small dome and lantern, and provided with a
clock. The corners, or end parts of each front, pro-
ject like the tower, and have the form and adornings
of oriental turrets. In the projecting parts the
house is four stories high; and in the other parts,
three stories. The windows are 200 in number;
but, owing to a whim of one of Heriot's executors,
are architecturally adorned in a vast variety of ways,
and, on a near inspection, give the edifice, which
seems so superb and tasteful at a little distance, an
offensive and caricatured appearance. On the south
side, opposite the entrance, is the chapel, 61 feet by
22, neatly fitted up, and occasioning a projection in
the building, which resembles a turret surmounted
by a small spire, and gives balance to the tower on
the north side. Till some years ago, the chapel
presented to the view only a clay floor and bare
walls, with a crazy rostrum for the preacher, and a
row of stone seats for the inmates; but now it has
a splendid pulpit, a richly-adorned ceiling, and
beautiful oaken carvings, and is the principal interior
attraction of the edifice. A terrace, with elegant
stone balustrade, now surrounds the building; the
grounds also are beautifully embellished; so that
the whole place has a palatial appearance.
This establishment originated in a bequest of
George Heriot, goldsmith, first on a small scale
and in a humble way in Edinburgh, next to Anne of
Denmark, consort of James, and afterwards to James
VI. himself, both before and after his succession to
the English crown. Many readers will form an
idea — perhaps not an incorrect one — of his position
in the King's household after the removal of the
court to London, from the picture drawn of him as
" Jingling Geordie," in the ' Fortunes of Nigel.'
On his death, in 1624, the sum of £23,625 10s. 3id.
was found, after deducting from his property pay-
ment of other bequests, to be available for maintain-
ing and educating the sons of poor burgesses of
Edinburgh. The civil disturbances which broke
out in 1639 retarded the progress of the building;
and, even after it was finished, occasioned it to be
used for 8 years as an hospital for the forces under
General Monk. In April, 1659, it was opened for
30 boys ; and it was made available, in August of
the same year, for 40, — in 1661, for 52, — in 1753,
for 130,— and in 1763, for 140, — and eventually for
180. Boys are admitted when from 7 to 10 years of
age, and usually leave when about 14. They are
comfortably lodged and fed, wear a uniform dress,
receive a very liberal education, and at leaving are
presented with a bible, and a large supply of cloth-
ing of their own choice. Those of them who are
destined to become tradesmen, are provided with an
apprentice-fee of £50, and, at the close of their
apprenticeship, with another supply of apparel, or a
present of £5. Those who are distinguished for
mental power, or give promise of being able to make
fair attainments in scholarship, have their stay in
the hospital prolonged, and afterwards receive
bursaries of £30 a-year for 4 years, to enable them
to attend the university. Ten other bursaries of
£20 each for 4 years are given from the funds to
aid boys of superior talents and acquirements, un-
connected with the hospital. In 1836, the governors
obtained parliamentary sanction to extend the bene-
fits of the institution in the erection of free-schools
in various parts of the city; and eight schools have
since been erected. The management of the
hospital is vested in the town-council and the city
ministers of the Establishment. The increase of
revenue arose from the executors' purchase of lands
which were of small value at the time, but became
of great value as part of the site of the New town.
The yearly income in 1780 was £2,169; and now it
is about £15,000.
George Watson's hospital stands 200 yards south
of Heriot's hospital, at the entrance to the meadows,
amid open grounds railed off from the meadow-walk
and Laurieston. Partof the building is a large, plain,
three-story oblong, extending east and west, sur-
mounted at the centre by a small tower terminating
in the figure of a ship, and was erected in 1738-41,
at a cost of about £5,000 ; and another part consists
of two massive wings, projecting southward from
the oblong, and uniform with it in elevation, and
was erected in 1857. The hospital originated
in a bequest of £12,000 by George Watson, first a
merchant in Holland, and afterwards an accountant
in his native city, Edinburgh, who died in 1723.
When the building was commenced, the fund had
accumulated to £20,000. Twelve boys originally
were admitted on the foundation, but now 80, who
wear a uniform dress, and are lodged, fed, educated,
and provided for in a similar way to the boys of
Heriot's hospital. They are received from 7 to 10
years of age, and remain till 15. Those who leave
to become tradesmen, receive an apprentice-fee of
£10 a-year for five years, and afterwards, at the
age of 25, if unmarried and well-conducted, receive
a gift of £50; and those who prefer an academic
education, and appear qualified for it, receive £20
a-year for 6 years. The managers are the master,
assistants, and treasurer of the Merchant company
of Edinburgh, five members of the town-council,
and the ministers of the Old and Greyfriara
churches.
Stewart's hospital stands a short distance north-
west of the Dean bridge, overlooking the road to
Queensferry. It was founded in 1849, and finished
EDINBURGH.
545
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in 1853. Its length is about 230 feet; and its sbort-
est breadth is upwards of 100 feet. Its chief mass
is quadrangular, with a height of two and three
stories, and has an open court, with a screen and
gatehouses in the centre. Two main towers rise
from the angles of the court to a height of upwards
of 120 feet, finished round the exterior with turrets
and embattled parapets, but crowned in their centre
with lanterns Terminating in ogee-roofs and vanes.
Two smaller towers also rise from each of the four
angles of the building; and several turrets occur in
the intervals. The central part of the back-front
projects considerably, and comprises, in successive
heights, first an arcade for exercise in inclement
weather, next the dining-hall, and next the chapel.
The architect was Mr. David Ehind. This esta-
blishment originated in a bequest of Mr. Daniel
Stewart, of the Exchequer, who died in 1814. The
amount was about £13,000, together with some
houses in the Old town. The object of the hospital
is " the maintenance and education of boys, the
children of honest and industrious parents, whose
circumstances in life do not enable them suitably to
support and educate their children at other schools."
Boys of the names of Stewart and Macfarlane have
a preference. The age for admission is between 7
and 10, and that for leaving not later than 14.
Girls' Hospitals. — The Merchant Maiden hospital
stands on the north side of the meadows, nearly 200
yards west of George Watson's hospital, the lines
between these hospitals and Heriot's forming the
sides of nearly an equilateral triangle. The edifice
is Grecian, 180 feet long, and 60 wide, and has a
handsome Ionic portico, of four columns and pedi-
ment. It presents its front to the meadows, but
stands across the extremity of Archibald-place, so
as to block up that street with its rear. It was
built in 1816, after a design by Burn, at the cost of
£12,250. The institution was founded in 1695, for
the benefit of daughters of merchant burgesses in
Edinburgh; and originated in voluntary contri-
butions of the citizens, in a considerable grant by
the company of merchants, and in a donation of
property of the value of 12,000 merks by Mrs. Mary
Erskine, the widow of an Edinburgh druggist. In
1707, the contributors obtained from parliament an
act of incorporation. Before the erection of the
present edifice, the inmates were lodged in a large
tenement in Bristo-street. From 90 to 100 girls are
maintained at one time on the foundation. They
enter from 7 to 11 years of age, and depart at 17;
they receive an education both substantial and
ornamental; and, when leaving, each is presented
with £9 6s. 8d. The governors are the Earl of Mar,
some of the city clergy and the town-council, but
principally official and elected members of the
Merchant company.
The Trades' Maiden hospital was formerly a
plain edifice in Argyle-square, on the site of the In-
dustrial museum ; and is now a commodious house,
with large garden, a little south of the meadows. The
institution was commenced in 1704, and obtained a
charter of incorporation in 1707. The girls eligible
for admission are the daughters of decayed trades-
men. They are received at the same age, and have
their attention directed to the same departments of
education, as the inmates of the Merchant Maiden
hospital; and, when leaving, at the age of 17, each
receives a Bible and £5 lis. The charity was
founded and endowed by the incorporated trades of-
the city; but was greatly aided by Mrs. Maiy
Erskine, the benefactress of its sister and more
opulent institution. The governors comprise the
Earl of Mar and the deacons of the thirteen incor-
porated trades.
I.
Boys' and Girls' Hospitals. — The Orphan hospital
stands on the left side of the Water of Leith ravine,
about 500 yards west of the village of Water of
Leith. It was built in 1833, after a design by Mr.
Thomas Hamilton, at the cost of nearly £16,000.
It is raised upon a ten-ace, and reached by a broad
flight of steps. It comprises a spacious centre, and
two moderately projecting wings, all two stories
high. On the central part of the centre is a beauti-
ful portico, with Tuscan columns and plain pedi-
ment; and behind this, on a line with the main
wall, is a small quadrangular superstructure, neatly
surmounted by a clock. Inward, contiguous to the
wings, rise two noble quadrangular towers, each of
two stages, having all the faces of both stages
pierced with open arches, and terminating all the
four angles with uniform small turrets. The effect
of the edifice altogether is unique, light, and graceful.
Orphans of both sexes are received into this estab-
lishment, at the age of from 7 to 10, and receive in
it a good plain education, the girls at the same time
being trained to become good domestic servants.
About 150 can be accommodated; and they are
eligible from any part of Scotland. The institu-
tion was founded by voluntary contribution in
1733; and next year a large and commodious build-
ing, ornamented with a spire, was erected in the
hollow between the Old and the New town, im.
mediately east of the central arches of the North-
bridge. But this was found to be unhealthy, and
was eventually swept away by the operations for
the North-British railway terminus. The con
tributors were erected into a corporation in 1742.
John Watson's hospital stands also on the left
side of the Water of Leith, about 200 yards west of
the Orphan hospital. It was founded in 1825, and
finished in 1828, after a design by Mr. Bum. The
edifice is of Grecian architecture, large and showy,
having in front a splendid portico. About 120
destitute children are maintained and educated, —
admissible between 5 and 8 years of age, and dis-
missed when 14. The course of education is sub-
stantial and valuable, but not so extensive or of so
lofty an aim as that of Heriot's and George Wat-
son's charities. The institution originated in a be-
quest of John Watson, a writer to the signet, which
was obtained in 1759, and which amounted in 1781
to £4,721 5s. 6d., but eventually accumulated to up-
wards of £90,000. The original specification of the
bequest was for a foundling hospital, but this was
altered, by authority of an act of parliament, to an
hospital "for the maintenance and education of
destitute children, and bringing them to be useful
members of society, and also for assisting in their
outset in life such of them as may be thought to
deserve and require such aid."
Donaldson's hospital is a pile of great size and
surpassing splendour. It stands on a swelling
ground, on the north side of the road to Bathgate
and on the right side of the Water of Leith, 500
yards south of John Watson's hospital, and 600
yards west of the Haymarket. It was founded in
1842, and finished in 1851. A remarkable road-
screen and elegant gates separate it from the high-
way; and a fine lawn, a grand stone balustrade, and
a spacious terrace environ it. The edifice is in the
Elizabethan style, after a design by Playfair. It
covers a quadrangular space of 258 feet by 207, and
contains a court of 176 feet by 164. Its height,
except at the towers, is about 50 feet, and is
divided into two stories and crowning embellish-
nients. Four octagonal towers, of five stories, rise
in the centre of the main front, flanking the grand
entrance, and attaining a height of 120 feet; four
square towers, of four stories, rise at each of the
2 M
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546
EDINBURGH.
angles to a medium height between the smaller
finials and the central towers; and all the twenty
towers have ogee roofs, and terminate in vanes.
The number of window-lights is 600. The whole
exterior, with perforated scroll ornament surmount-
ing its oriels, ornamental lace-work and armorial
bearings on its corner towers, flowers and cherub-
heads on the tympanums of its buttresses, and
shields with thistles, shamrocks, roses, and fleurs-
de-lis on the embrasures of its parapets, is exceed-
ingly elegant. Nor is the inner quadrangle less
impressive; for there the symmetrical proportions
of the masses and apertures, the picturesque group-
ings of the towers and turrets, the continuous lines
of the mouldings and string-courses, and the richly
ornate central pedestal, rising like a grand bouquet
from the substantial pavement, fill the mind with
wonder and delight. The interior also is in good
keeping with the exterior. The corridors are be-
tween 3,000 and 4,000 feet in aggregate length;
the principal staircases are about 20 feet square,
and from 40 to 50 feet high ; the apartments aver-
age 17 feet in height, and are 164 in number; the
public rooms average about 65 feet in length by 25
in breadth, and have panelled ceilings, eorbelled,
bossed, and. painted in imitation of oak; and the
corridors, staircases, and public rooms have a wain-
scoat lining to the aggregate length of upwards of 4
miles. The chapel, in particular, is finished with
high brilliance; and Queen Victoria, on making a
visit to the scarcely completed pile in 185G, lingered
here with unmistakable gratification.
This splendid institution was founded by bequest
of James Donaldson of Broughton Hall, proprietor
of the Edinburgh Advertiser, who died in 1830.
The amount bequeathed was about £200,000; and
the specification was for the erection and endowment
of an hospital for poor boys and girls, after the plan
of the Orphan hospital of Edinburgh and John
Watson's hospital. The trustees, by deed of con-
stitution in 1844, vested the management of the
institution in the Lord-justice-general, the Lord-
clerk-register, the Lord-advocate, the Lord-provost
of Edinburgh, the Lord-lieutenant of Edinburgh-
shire, the principal of Edinburgh university, six
other Edinburgh functionaries, and an elected body
of fourteen other gentlemen. The hospital has ac-
commodation for 150 boys and 150 girls. No chil-
dren are admissible whose parents are able to main-
tain them. Children of the names of Donaldson
and Marshall have the preference. A large propor-
tion of those already admitted are deaf and dumb.
The age of admission is from 6 till 9; and that of
dismission not later than 14.
Adults' Hospitals.— Trinity hospital is the oldest
charitable institution in Edinburgh. The original
edifice stood on the east side of Leith-wynd, but at
a remote date became ruinous, and was demolished.
The subsequent edifice stood at the foot of Leith-
wynd, on the west side, not far from the site of the
North bridge, grouping there with other public
buildings which were all swept away in 1845
by the operations for the terminus of the North
British railway. It was originally the residence of
the provost and prebendaries of Trinity College
church; and, though afterwards repaired and some-
what altered, it continued to be a fine specimen of
the architecture and monastic accommodations of
the age in which it was erected. It was two stories
high, and formed two sides of a square, or rather
of a parallelogram. Along the interior of the upper
story of the longer side ran a gallery about half the
width of the house, lighted from the west, serving
at once as a promenade, a library-room, and a grand
corridor, and winged with a range of small cots.
each of which had a bed, a table, and a chair, for a
single occupant. The other parts of the building
were distributed into sitting-rooms, modern bed-
rooms, and other apartments. The hospital was
founded and amply endowed by Mary of Gueldres,
consort of James II. What became of the bedes-
men who occupied it in the times of popery, or bow
they were situated as inmates, does not appear. At
the Eeformation the hospital shared, for a season,
the fate of institutions of a similar origin ; but was
repurchased, for its original purposes, by the town-
council in 1585, and afterwards confirmed in its
rights by a deed of James VI. Upon its resettle-
ment it was destined for the support of decayed bur-
gessesof Edinburgh, their wives, and their unmarried
children, not under 50 years of age. At first only 5
men and 2 women were admitted; but in 1700 the
number of inmates had increased to 54 ; and after-
wards it was usually about 20 men and 20 women,
the sexes having distinct accommodations and sitting-
rooms, and meeting only at meals and at morning
and evening worship. Those who were inmates in
1845 were pensioned off upon £26 a-year each; and
persons elected since that time receive each £20 a-
year. There used always to be also a considerable
body of out-pensioners, who received a regular pit-
tance from the funds; and about 80 persons, corre-
sponding to this class, now receive £6 a-year each.
The charity is managed by the magistrates and
town-eouncil as governors, and by a regular staff
of officiates.
Gillespie's hospital is salubriously situated in an
extensive park at the head of Burntsfield-links,
near the south-west extremity of the Old town. The
edifice is a commodious, oblong, elegant structure,
partly in a castellated form, having turrets at the
angles, and was built in 1801. The establishment
is fitted up for the accommodation and support of
persons of both sexes, not under 50 years of age,
who have sunk from wealth or competence to desti-
tution, and admits at one time about 50. In its
vicinity is a school, opened in 1803, for the education
of about 150 boys, who are admissible from 6 to 12
years of age, and are allowed to attend 3 years.
Both institutions originated in a bequest by James
Gillespie, a tobacconist of Edinburgh, of £12,000,
besides considerable landed property. The governors
are the master and 12 assistants of the Merchant
company, some retired members of the magistracy,
and two of the city ministers, who have a charter of
incorporation. The sum of £2,000 was set aside from
the entire bequest for the support of the school —
Chalmers' hospital, "for the sick and hurt," isalarge,
oblong, pleasing edifice of 1861-2, in Laurieston, op-
posite the cattle-market. This institution originated
in a bequest of about £30,000 by George Chalmers,
plumber in Edinburgh, who died in 1836. The
management of it is vested in the dean and faculty
of advocates.
Ecclesiastical Edifices.
Established Clm-rch Edifices.— Victoria hall, or
Assembly hall, where the general assembly of the
Established church holds its meetings, stands at
the point where the Lawnmarket forks into Castle-
street and the New Western approach. Its site is
high, only a few feet lower than the Castle esplanade,
and on a line with the head of the Grassmarket and
the west side of the Mound. The edifice stands
east and west, presenting the whole length of its
flanks to the thoroughfares which go past it, yet
is prevented by a curve in the Lawnmarket trom
showing its east end or main front to any great ex-
tent of view. Its steeple, however, soars so loftily
above the neighbouring houses, all standing on the
<£§
J
EDINBURGH.
547
EDINBURGH.
very crest of the hill's declivities, as to be fully
seen from most parts of the city and of the circum-
jacent country, forming one of the most conspicuous
features of the urban landscape. The building was
founded in 1842, on occasion of the Queen's visit,
and finished in 1844. It is in the decorated Gothic
style, after a design by Gillespie Graham. Its length
from east to west is 141 feet. Each flank displays
five windows and an appropriate number of buttress-
es and pinnacles. The east end is surmounted by
a lofty tower, gorgeous all over with Gothic decora-
tion, looking in the distance almost like a sheaf of
pinnacles, disclosing at near view much elaborated
window-work, and sending up from its summit an
octagonal spire to the height of 241 feet from the
ground. The edifice cost about £16,000, and was
raised at the joint expense of the government and
the city. It is used also as the parochial church of
the Tolbooth parish.
St. Giles' church stands on the north side of
Parliament-square, separating the old area of that
square from High-street. It is the most ancient
ecclesiastical edifice in Edinburgh, but of unknown
or uncertain date. It was originally of the cathe-
dral or cruciform shape, in the Gothic style of the
periods preceding any debasement in pointed archi-
tecture; but it has, in the effluxion of ages, been
subjected to so many alterations, renovations, and
repairs that its pristine character, excepting in its
central tower and spire, has been almost wholly
lost. Its general appearance now is irregular,
heavy, and comparatively tasteless, with little of
either the symmetry of form or the grace of decora-
tion so commonly found in edifices of its age and
class, its very pinnacles stumpy in form and
coarsely crocketted, yet the whole pile, especially
with the aid of its fine old tower and spire, grandly
massive and pleasingly impressive. Its length is
206 feet; and its breadth, at the west end, 110 feet,
-at the middle, 129 feet, — at the east end, 76 feet.
Its great square tower, rising from its centre, is
decorated at the top with open-figured stone-work,
and sends off from its angles four arches which
have pinnacles in their progress, and a small spire
at their point of meeting, and produce the figure of
an ornamented imperial crown. This figure rises
161 feet above the base of the edifice, and, occupy-
ing a high and commanding site, is seen from a
great distance, and forms one of the most character-
istic features of the city landscapes of Edinburgh.
In the old times of traffic in the Parliament-close,
St. Giles' church was packed round with shops,
booths, stalls, and other places of trade, the very
forge and work-shop of the famous George Heriot,
the royal goldsmith, having been there; and so late
as the year 1817, all the spaces between the but-
tresses were occupied by small shops, called krames,
which had been grafted upon the walls, with the
effect of not only disfiguring the basement of the
edifice by their own forms, but also blackening its
veiy pinnacles by the sooty smoke of their fires.
A general renovation of the pile, however, was
effected in 1830, under the direction of Mr. Burn,
aided by a government grant of no less than
£10,000; and this so completely swept away all
excrescences and decays, and gave such an entirely
new facing to the walls, together with replace-
ments of salient decorations, that the whole build-
ing now looks as fresh and strong as many a new
erection of the present century. St. Giles', in fact,
is young again ; and every fifteen minutes he ap-
pears joyous withal, ringing out from his tower a
set of most beautiful chimes.
" Hoary Saint Giles, as he towers in height.
Shines like a moDarch enthroued in light;
His bright crown blends with the sunny 6ky;
He gazeth aloft with gleaming eye;
He rings his bells with a merry chime.
Nodding and laughing at Father Time.
Proudly he towers, exulting and gay.
But his old companions where are they?
Old men and dwellings have come and gone.
The place which held them is void and lone;
Still the Old Saint, as in youthful prime,
Noddcth and laugbeth to Father Time."
St. Giles is first mentioned in a charter of David
II., dated 1359. In 1466, it was made a collegiate
church, and contained about 40 altars dedicated to
different saints. After the Reformation, it was par-
titioned into four churches, and some lesser apart-
ments, and put into repair by the proceeds of the
sale of vessels and paraphernalia belonging to its
numerous altars, and the pompous ceremonies of its
original worship. From 1633 to 1638, it was the
cathedral of the brief bishopric of Edinburgh; and
it was the scene of the well-known cutty-stool ex -
ploit of Janet Geddes, which acted like a disturber
of the perilous equipoise on an alpine summit, send-
ing down upon the whole episcopacy of Scotland an
enshrouding and entombing avalanche. In 1643,
the Solemn League and Covenant was sworn and
subscribed within the walls of St. Giles, by the re-
presentatives of the public bodies of Scotland. Near
the middle of its south side, are monuments over the
remains of Regent Moray and the great Marquis
of Montrose ; and under a window near the north-
east corner is the monument of Napier of Merchis-
ton, the inventor of logarithms. The edifice is now
divided into three parts, the High church, the Old
church, and the New North church. The High
church is attended by the magistrates of the city,
the judges of the Court of session, and the barons of
Exchequer, in their respective robes of office; and,
owing probably to this circumstance — though on a
strictly ecclesiastical or presbyterial level with the
other parish-churches of the country — it holds a
place in popular estimation, and invests its ministers
with a species of influence, as the metropolitan
church of Scotland, — the St. Paul's of Edinburgh.
Trinity College church was an object of strong
antiquarian interest. It was founded by Mary of
Gueldres, consort of James II.; and was veiy gen-
erally regarded as one of the finest Gothic edifices of
its age. It stood on the west side of the foot of
Leitb-wynd ; but being, in common with other
buildings there, in the way of the operations of the
North British railway company, it was taken down
in 1848. Its materials were removed under registry
by a skilful architect ; and sharp disputes about
re-erecting them were carried on till 1857. The
edifice never was completed, but comprised only
choir, central tower, and transepts. An unfinished
wall closed up the area where the nave should have
commenced. " Many of the details of it," says the
author of the Memorials of Edinburgh in the Olden
Time, " are singularly grotesque. The monkey is
repeated in all varieties of position in the gurgoils,
and is occasionally introduced in the interior among
other figures that seem equally inappropriate as the
decorations of an ecclesiastical edifice, though of
common occurrence in the works of the 15th and
16th centuries. The varied corbels exhibit here and
there an angel or other device of beautiful form ; but
more frequently they consist of such crouching
monsters, labouring under the burden they have to
bear up, as seem to realize Dante's Purgatory
of Pride, where the unpurged souls dree their doom
of penance underneath a crushing load of stone."
The interior was seated only over the central area,
leaving the pillars fully exposed to view. Mr.
Eickman pronounced it " a veiy beautiful decorated
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composition, with the capitals of the piers enriched
with foliage, not exceeded in design or execution in
any English cathedral." On one of the buttresses
were sculptured the arms of Gueldres quartered
with those of Scotland. The mortal remains of the
royal foundress lay interred in an aisle on the north
side ; and at the taking down of the church, they
were removed to the royal cemetery at Holyrood.
The chapter of the church, according to the deed of
foundation, consisted of a provost, 8 prebendaries,
and 2 choristers. Before the Reformation, the place
was called the Collegiate church of the Holy
Trinity; hut, after it became a Presbyterian place
of worship, it was usually called the College kirk.
Canongate church, situated on the north side of
the Canongate, several yards back from the street
line, has a cruciform shape, with nave, transepts,
and chancel. But though built in that form to
humour the popish fancies of James VII., it is a
pitiful imitation of the ecclesiastical structures of a
preceding and less enlightened age. On the outside,
it has only a little ornament, and that in such poor
taste as to be almost a ludicrous apology for the obvi-
ous want of means to attempt something more grand.
There is neither tower, spire, pinnacle, nor an}7 piece
of adorning which can be called either Gothic or
Grecian. The street-front has considerably the ap-
pearance of a glazed gable, with a thing intended to
do service as a portico at the middle of the base.
On the pinnacle of this gable is the absurd orna-
ment of a horned deer's head, surmounted by a cross,
copied from the Canongate crest, and allusive to the
monkish fable respecting the miraculous cross put
into the hand of David I. when hunting the stag, —
the same cross or ' rood ' which gave name to the
neighbouring abbey and palace. — For a long period,
the parish of Canongate had for its church the abbey-
church of Holyrood. After being ejected thence,
in 1672, the parishioners were accommodated, for
about 15 years, in Lady Yester's church. But having
represented to James VII. that 20,000 merks had
been bequeathed, in 1649, for their use, they obtained
possession of the sum, and got the present edifice
erected in 1688. — New-street church, a chapel of
ease to the Canongate, is a plain building.
The Tron church stands isolatedly at the inter-
section of High-street and South Bridge-street, oc-
cupying the north-east angle of the small area called
Hunter's-square. It was built in 1647, at a cost of
£6,000. Its main front, presented to the High-street,
and seen for some way up the ascent of North
Bridge-street, is of pleasing appearance. In the
middle is the base of a square tower, ornamented
with pilasters; and there are 4 semi-gothic windows,
and 3 door-ways. The square tower was originally
surmounted by a curious wooden spire covered with
lead; but, this having been wholly destroyed by the
falling of embers upon it in the great fire of 1824,
the tower was, in 1828, decorated and carried aloft
with a handsome spire of stone. The Tron church
derived its humble and malapropos name from its
vicinity to the ancient Tron or public beam for
weighing merchandise. The clock-dial in each face
of the tower has a plate of dimmed glass, which is
lighted with gas from the inside after nightfall.
The Greyfriars' churches, Old and New, are situ-
ated in a recess from the head of Candlemaker-row,
or south end of George IV. 's bridge, immediately
north of the city workhouse. Their site is the
south-east part of an enclosure which was long the
garden of the ancient monastery of the Greyfriars,
and which rises gently from the skirts of the Grass-
market, to the summit of the ancient boundary of the
city. The monastery stood on the south side of the
Grassmarket, and was demolished in 1559; and the
garden was bestowed by Queen Mary on the city,
to be used as a place of public interment. The Old
Greyfriars church was built here in 1612, and was
adorned at its west end with a steeple. But, in
1718, the steeple was blown up by the ignition of a
quantity of gunpowder which had been lodged in it
by the authorities of the city; and the town-council
resolved, instead of re-edifying the towering ap-
pendage of the church, to add, by elongation, a new
place of worship. This, constructed uniformly with
the Old, was finished in 1721, at the cost of £3,045.
The two churches then formed externally a plain
oblong structure, with Gothic windows, and inter-
nally a place of Gothic construction, with heavy
pillars and arches; and were entered by a common
porch in the centre. Both were gutted by fire in Jan-
uary 1845. The new church needed only to be re-
fitted, and was soon restored for use; but the old
one sustained injury in the walls, was not rendered
again serviceable till 1857, and was then adorned with
windows of stained glass. This pile is famous for a
great signing of the National Covenant, partly
within its walls, and partly in the bury ing- ground
around it, in 1638.
"They met within the ancient walls, where once the Greyfriars
ruled,
A concourse vast of earnest men, in common danger schooled.
Oh! Arthur's Seat gave back the shout of that assembled crowd,
As one bare forth the mighty bond — and many wept aloud —
They spread it on a tombstone head — (a martyr slept beneath) —
And some subscribed it with their blood, and added ' Until
death 1 ' "
Lady Yester's church, situated on the north side
of Infirmary-street, is a plain but agreeable-looking
edifice, without a spire. It was built in 1803.
Dame Margaret Ker, Lady Yester, founded the
original building, the predecessor of the present, in
1647, and gave the magistrates 15,000 merks to de-
fray its cost, and aid its support. A small cemetery
which formerly belonged to it is now covered with
buildings. — Newington church, situated on the west
side of Clerk-street, and built in 1823, has a Roman
front, with a steeple 110 feet high. It measures 162
feet in length and 73 in width, and is chaste though
not showy in appearance. — St. John's parish
church stands on the south side of Victoria-street,
and was built in 1838. It is a somewhat coarse
building, in a mixed manner of architecture, without
any tower, but with some ambitious ornamentation
and a Saxon doorway. — Greenside church stands on
the northern face of the Calton hill, on the line of
the Royal-terrace, sufficiently isolated to expose all
its sides to distant view. The greater part of the
tower was built in 1851 ; but the rest of the pile was
built in 1838. The whole is a Gothic abortion, all
the more displeasing to the eye for occupying so
conspicuous a site, in the near neighbourhood of
Grecian masses.
St. Cuthbert's church stands in the hollow under
the north-west face of the Castle-rock, a little inward
from the angle of Prince's-street and Lothian road.
It is a huge plain edifice, with a double slated roof;
and is redeemed, in the ungainliness of its aspect,
only by a lofty spire, rising at its west end, and
erected some years later than the church. The
whole was erected in the later part of last century,
at the cost of £4,231. "It is said that, when the
heritors determined upon building it, they pitched
upon the architect whose estimate was least expen-
sive, and who excluded from his plan the unneces-
sary ornament of a steeple; but, after getting time
to contemplate the ground cumbered by an enormous
oblong bam, with huge disproportioned windows,
they regretted the error which they had sanctioned,
and endeavoured to repair it by building a steeple
in a style of ornamented and florid architecture, as
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549
EDINBURGH.
[f the finery of such an appendage could relieve the
heaviness of the principal building, which it only
rendered more deformed by the contrast. In truth,
however, even the steeple is by no means burdened
with any excess of ornament; though, _ from
its large proportions and prominent situation, it
forms a marked and not unpleasing feature in some
of the finest general views of the city." The
original St. Cuthbert's church is older than Scottish
record, — perhaps as old as the ago succeeding the
demise of St. Cuthbert, the end of the 7th century.
It had several grants before the date of the charter
of Holyrood; and, with its parish and kirk-town
and rights, was granted by David I. to the monks of
that abbey. St. Cuthbert's was not only the old-
est parish in the lowlands of Mid-Lothian, but the
most extensive; and it was the most opulently en-
dowed in Scotland, except that of Dunbar. See the
article Cuthbert's (St.).
Newington church, which we formerly noticed,
and Buccleuch church, St. Bernard's, the Gaelic,
Dean, St. David's, Morningside, and Lady Glenor-
eliy's churches, were all erected as chapels of ease
to St. Cuthbert's ; and the four last continue to be
such, while the four first have become quoad sacra
parochial. Buccleuch church was the earliest of
the chapels of ease, and is a dingy, old, cruciform
structure in Chapel-street. St. Bernard's is a pleas-
ing edifice of 1823, with a low neat steeple, in West
Claremont-street. The Gaelic church is a plain
building at the corner of Horse-wynd and Argyle-
square. Dean church is a plain cruciform structure
of 1836. with a belfry, in the suburb of Dean, north-
west of Dean bridge. St. David's is an edifice with
a Grecian portico, but with very plain flanks, in
Gardiner's-erescent. Morningside church is a neat
modern erection in the village of Morningside. Lady
Glenorchy's, originally Roxburgh church, is a plain
building of 1809 in Roxburgh-place.
St. George's church stands on the north side of
Charlotte-square, on a line with the termination of
George-street. It was commenced in 1811, and
completed in 1814, at a cost of £33,000. Its archi-
tecture is a debatedobject among critics, — denounced
by some as heavy, shapeless, and insufferably dull,
and panegyrised by others as grand, chaste, and
handsome, — superior to that of any other modern
church of the Scottish Establishment. The archi-
tect was Robert Reed. The edifice is on a square
ground-plan, and in a massive Greco-Italian style.
Its front, 112 feet in length, presents between two
comparatively plain projecting wings a lofty Ionic
portico, with four columns and two pilasters, — sur-
mounted, however, hy only an entablature and a
balustrade. And from the summit of the whole pile,
rises first a grand square basement with massive
cornice, next a very wide circular tower, zoned hy
an Attic-Corinthian colonnade, next a great lead-
covered dome, crowned by successively cyclostyle-
lanthern, cupola, and cross, to the height of 150
feet from the ground. This domical feature of the
edifice was designed as a mimic resemblance of the
dome of St. Paul's in London; but far surpasses the
excellences of a miniature imitation, and attracts
the eye, and challenges admiration, from many
points of view in the metropolis, but especially when
so grouped as to appear on the background. — St.
Luke's church, a chapel of ease to St. George's, is a
plain building, without any tower, in Young-street.
St. Andrew's church stands on the north side of
George - street. It was built in 1785, but was
originally without a steeple. Its form is oval. Its
front presents to the view a pedimented portico,
with four remarkably elegant Corinthian columns.
A tower of three stages, very symmetrical and
adorned with pillars, rises behind this, and sends
aloft an octagonal spire to the height of 1C8 feet
from the ground. The steeple is not only one of the
finest in Edinburgh, figuring conspicuously in al-
most every general view of the New town, but also
one of the most beautiful in the sky-line of any city;
and it contains a fine chime of eight hells. — St.
Stephen's church stands at the west end of Fettes-
row, fronting the line of St. Vincent-street. It was
built in 1826-8, at the cost of £21,000. It is in
an order of architecture called the mixed Roman.
From an obtuse angle in front rises a massive tower
1G3 feet high, terminated by a balustrade; and from
each angle of the balustrade springs an elegant
double cross. But whatever attractions to the
taste, or challenges to criticism, the edifice offers to
the view, are in a great measure marred by the
lowness of its situation, overlooked by the ascent of
the whole of the New town toward the summit on
the line of George-street. — St. Mary's church, situ-
ated in the centre of Bellevue crescent, was built in
182-1. It is of an oblong form, having one of the
ends as its front. A range of six elegant Corinthian
columns supports a pediment. A tower of three
stages rises behind this; the first stage square, with
Doric pillars at the angles ; the second and the third
stages circular, with respectively Ionic and Corin-
thian pillars around them ; and a cupola surmounts
the topmost stage, crowned by a small open cyclo-
style, in the form of a small lanthem.
Free Church Edifices. — The Free church College
and High church at the head of the Mound, is one
of the most prominent buildings in the city. It
was founded in 1846, and opened in 1850 ; and is
believed to have cost upwards of £30,000. It has
a frontage of 165 feet, and extends backward 177
feet. The eastern part is the High church; and
the rest, comprising a hollow quadrangle, is the
College. The style is Elizabethan, of tbe variety
called English collegiate, though with some devia-
tions belonging to the perpendicular pointed. The
architect was Playfair. The High church is com-
paratively plain; but has a buttressed, pinnacled,
square tower of 96 feet in height at the north-east
angle, and a neat little porch on the east side. The
College is divided into two stories, crowned by a
range of dormer windows. The main entrance is
an elegant archway, with groined ceiling. Two
towers flank it, exactly similar to the tower at the
corner of the High church, but 121 feet in height.
Projecting windows and embattled parapets occupy
the space between the towers ; embattled parapets
also surmount the main wall; ornamental tympanums
crown the dormer windows ; and decorated clusters
of chimney-shafts figure on the summit of the build-
ing behind the towers. The general effect of the
facade, however, is heavy. The ground-line also is
severely injured by the road in front of it being an
ascent, not toward it, but across it. But the interior
quadrangle, which measures 85 feet by 56, is very
fine; and tbe south end of this is adorned by two
octagonal towers, finished with ogee roofs and gilt
vanes. The College contains nine class-rooms, a
number of small apartments, a senate hall, and a
library hall, — the last adorned with a statue of Dr.
Chalmers by Steel. There are six professorships. —
one of them on natural science, one on Hebrew and
Oriental languages, one on church history, one on
exegetical theology, and the other two on divinity.
Canongate or John Knox's church fronts the
Canongate immediately east of John Knox's house.
It has a remarkably beautiful facade of florid Gothic,
terminating in four richly crocketted pinnacles, and
in a decorated pediment surmounted by a cross.
— Holyrood church is a much plainer structure, amid
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550
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a block of buildings immediately west of'the palace
yard. — The Tron church stands quite concealed from
general view in a close off the High-street. — The
New North church is a beautiful Gothic edifice,
looking northward along George IV.'s bridge, and
presenting its flanks to Forrest-road and Bristo-
place. The lower part of its front, containing the
great doorway, projects about twelve feet from the
main wall, containing the great window, and is
finely decorated with a mimic Gothic colonnade of
shafts and archlets. — Greyfriars church, in Graham-
street, has a very neat Saxon front, with two small
turrets and a pediment. — Buccleuch church, con-
fronting Buccleuch-street, is a pleasing Gothic edi-
fice of 1856, with a lofty well-proportioned steeple,
added in 1861-2. — A large church was founded, in
1862, on the western verge of Burntsfield-links, and
will be in the early decorated Gothic style, with two
steeples 108 and 250 feet high.
Roxburgh church is a plain Gothic building, with
a neat porch opening into Hill-square, and a rear-
front facing Eichmond-place. — Davie-street church
is a plain large building, formerly belonging to the
Original Secession. — St. Paul's church stands in
St. Leonard-street, nearly opposite the extremity of
Eankeillour-street. It has a plain Roman front,
surmounted by a quadrangular belfry, each of whose
faces is pierced with a wide arch. — Newington and
Liberton church stands on the east side of Clerk-
street, a short distance south of the Established
Newington church. It is a comparatively large
pile, formed upon the nucleus of an originally small
one, and has a Gothic front. — St. John's church
stands on a very steep acclivity, facing the New
Western approach on the west, the Assembly hall
on the north, the West bow on the east, and Vic-
toria street on the south, — almost overhanging on
the last of these sides its namesake of the Establish-
ment. It is in a mixed style of early Gothic, and
displays a considerable amount of pleasing embel-
lishment, but is remarkable chiefly for the manner
in which it adapts itself to its surpassingly awkward
site, having only a moderate elevation on the north,
but standing far aloft like a castle in the air on the
south, and perched there at its apparent foundation
upon an edificed terrace of two stories facing Victo-
ria-street.— St. Cuthbert's church, the Gaelic church,
and the two Chalmers' territorial churches, are struc-
tures of Gothic character, respectively in Spittal-
street, Lothian-road, West-port, and Fountainbridge.
— St. David's church and Dean church are plain
buildings, respectively in Morrison-street and near
the Dean -bridge. — St. Bernard's church, on the
south side of Henderson-row, is a handsome Gothic
erection of 1856, consisting of nave and aisles, with
a small spiral tower.
St. George's church stands on the west side of
Lothian-road, a short distance from the end of
Prince's-street, but throws back its main body in a
direction diagonal to its front, along the line of a
lane which descends to the south-west. It is an
elegant edifice in the Anglo-Norman style, but looks
in some degree like two buildings fused into one.
The architect was Mr. Cousin. The front part, on
which the chief decoration is expended, has a slated
roof parallel to Lothian-road, and exhibits a gable
at each end and a pediment in the centre. The
pediment is pierced with a circular window ; two
beautifully carved turrets flank it ; some well-exe-
cuted mimic arcades, in the Norman fashion of small
attached shafts and arches, adorn the main wall ;
and a very handsome porch, elaborately decorated
with chevron-work, forms the main entrance. — St.
Andrew's church, in George-street, stands behind
the street line, and is entered through a house be-
fore it. — St. Luke's church, in Queen-street, is situ-
ated similarly to St. Andrew's, but has a factitious
street-front, in the Elizabethan style, with two
crocketted turrets. — St. Stephen's church, in Wemyss
place, was formed out of the upper parts of a large
private house, and shows nine lofty windows, sur-
mounted by a broad entablature. — Tolbooth church,
in a lane off North St. David- street, is a Gothic
structure of 1857, with large end window and roof-
lights. — Lady Glenorchy's church, in Greenside-
place, has a factitious front in the Elizabethan style,
with low, broad embattled tower. — St. Mary's church,
in Broughton-street and Albany-street, is a large
beautiful edifice of 1859-61, in late Gothic and Tu-
dor, with a richly carved steeple 180 feet high. — ■
Pilrig church, in Pilrig-street and Leith-walk, is a
structure of 1861-2, in the early decorated Gothic
style, with double transept and a steeple 150 feet
high. — The Assembly-hall, on Castle-hill, is an edi-
fice of 1858-9, in the late Gothic style, built at a cost
of £7,000, and has accommodation for about 1,700
persons.
United Presbyterian Edifices. — The Synod -hall
and offices of the United Presbyterian church are in
Queen-street. A plain porch forms the approach.
A large refitted house, originally a private building,
contains the theological class-rooms, the library-
hall, and the secretary's apartments. And an edi-
fice in the rear, erected in 1847, containing sitting-
accommodation for 1,100 persons, and handsomely
fitted up for the purposes of public business, forms
the Synod-hall. This place is also in great request
on hire for public meetings of an educational or
philanthropic kind, and has hitherto been used as
the lecture-hall of the Edinburgh philosophical in-
stitution. There are five professorships in connec-
tion with the theological hall; but the classes meet
only during the autumnal months.
Arthur-street United Presbyterian church was
originally Baptist, and passed in 1835 to the Eclief
for £2,100. Newington church also was originally
Baptist, and passed in 1847 to the United Secession;
and it will be superseded by a new edifice, in the
early Gothic style, with a tower, founded in 1862.
Nicolson-street church was built in 1819, at a cost
of £6,000, and has a broad Gothic fiont, with turret-
pinnacles, 90 feet high. Potterrow church was
built in 1793, at a cost of £1,290, and repaired in
1831 at a cost of £300. Bristo church, in a court
off Bristo-street, was built in 1802, at a cost of
£4,084, enlarged at a cost of £1,515, and is neat and
very spacious. South College-street church was
rebuilt in 1857, has a front in the Florentine style,
and is roofed and lighted in the manner of a Gothic
clerestory. Infirmary-street church belonged ori-
ginally to the protesting Antiburghers, came into
its present connexion in 1856, and is adorned in
front with only Doric pilasters. North Richmond-
street church is small and neat. The two High-
street churches are places occupied by recently-
formed mission congregations. Laurieston-place
church is a large handsome Gothic structure of
1859. Portsburgh church was built in 1828, at a
cost of £1,947. Union church, in Bread-street, has
a Roman front with pilasters and pediment, and was
built in 1831. Lothian-road church has an Italian
front of three stories, with recessed centre, rusticated
basement and surmounting balustrade, and was built
in 1831. Dean-street church, in Stockbridge, was
built in 1828, at a cost of £2, 100. Rose-street church
was rebuilt in 1830, at a cost of £3,042, and presents
to the street the greater side of an oblong, in Ro-
man architecture, with pilasters and balustrades.
St. James'-place church was built in 1800, at a cost
of £3,600, and repaired in 1828 at a cost of £650
EDINBURGH.
551
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Broughton-place church, standing across tlio east
end of Broughton-place, was built in 1821, at a cost
of .£7,095, and repaired in 1853 at a considerable
cost; and lias a Roman front, with elegant tetra-
style Doric portico.
"Episcopalian Edifices. — St. Paul's Episcopal church
stands on the nortli side of York-place, contiguous
to Broughton-street. It was built in 1818, after a
design by Mr. Archibald Elliott, at a cost of about
£12,000. It is an elegant edifice of nave and side
aisles, chiefly in the later Gothic style, but with
Elizabethan doorways. Its length is 123 feet, and
its breadth 73 feet. " Its mouldings are profuse and
beautiful; its pinnacles are symmetrical and finely
crocketted ; and four octagonal turrets rise from the
four angles of the inner walls, to display themselves
above the general mass in handsome open stone-
work. The effect of the whole pile, in the general
street-line, is exceedingly fine. The great east win-
dow was decorated anew with stained glass repre-
sentations in 1850. The organ hero is said to be
the finest in Scotland. This church, in consequence
of having the Edinburgh bishop of the Scottisli
Episcopalian community for one of its officiates, is
regarded by some persons as a cathedral.
St. John's Episcopal church stands a few yards
north of St. Cuthbert's, in the angle between Prince's-
street and Lothian-road. It was built in 1818, after
a design by Burn, at a cost of £15,000. It is a
splendid oblong edifice, of r.ave and aisles, 113 feet
long and 62 feet wide, in the florid Gothic style, in
imitation of St. George's chapel at Windsor. It
rises on built vaults, with a terrace and apertures
to the south, and has attached to its east end a ves-
try externally in keeping with the main building. A
grand square tower rises from the west end, pierced
through the basement with the main entrance, re-
lieved in its sides by beautiful windows, and termi-
nating at its summit, 120 feet high, in ornamented
pinnacles. The decorations of the main entrance,
of all the windows, and of the whole of both flanks,
are in the finest manner of the later Gothic. The
pinnacles, in particular, have exquisitely wrought
finials, and some large niches on the flank walls are
decorated with tabernacle-work. The pillars and
arches of the interior also are light and symmetrical;
and the middle roof is ornamented with mouldings
and a profusion of decorations. The great window
in the east is 30 feet high, and exhibits figures
of the apostles in stained glass by Eggington of
Bristol.
Trinity Episcopal church stands at the north-west
end of the Dean bridge, overhanging the village of
Water of Leith, and figuring conspicuously in many
views of the west end and western suburbs of Edin-
burgh. It was built in 1839, after a design by Mr.
John Henderson. It is a beautiful Gothic pile, of
kindred character to St. Paul's and St. John's, and
looks in the distance, partly owing to the nature of
its site, not unlike one of the best of the English
cathedrals. Below it are crypts; and its east front
is ornamented by a square tower. — St. George's
church is a small neat octagonal structure, with
decorated front in mixed architecture, built in 1794,
on the south side of York-place. — St. James' church
is a large plain building, uniform with the contigu-
ous range of private houses, on the north side of
Broughton-place. — St. Columba's is a Gothic build-
ing, with only one flank exposed to full view, and
with a low square battlemented tower at its west
end, in Castle-place, on the New Western approach.
— St. Peter's, in Lutton-plaee, is a plain, high-
roofed, Gothic-windowed edifice of 1858. — St. Paul's,
in Carrubber's-elose, was built by the Jacobites im-
mediately after the Revolution. — St. Andrews, in
South Back of Canongate, is a small oblong struc-
ture of 1857, in the Saxon style, with an apse and a
low square tower. — St. John's school-chapel, in Earl
Grey-street, a school on work-days and a chapel on
Sabbaths, is a low, coarse, cruciform erection of
1852, enlarged in 1862.
St. Thomas' English Episcopal church has one
front in Rutland-street and another front in the
recess-angle facing the point in which Prince's-
strect, Hope-street, Queensforry-street, and Mait-
land-street meet. Its south front is uniform with
the contiguous private houses in Rutland-street;
but its north front is in the Norman style, with a
beautiful porch, some exquisite mimic arcade work,
and a profusion of the chevron ornament. — St. Vin-
cent's English Episcopal chinch, at the foot of St.
Vincent-street, is a small Gothic edifice of 1850,
with nave, chancel, north aisle, and spirelet. — St.
Margaret's chapel, on the summit of the castle, was
the private oratory of Margaret, the queen of Mal-
colm Canmore ; underwent degradation so as to be
long used for a powder magazine, but was a number
of years ago re-appreciated and restored ; serves
now as a baptistry to the Episcopalian chaplain of
the garrison, and is an interesting structure, with
chancel-arch and simple apse.
Edifices of other Denominations. — The Reformed
Presbyterian church, on George IV. 's bridge, is a
Gothic edifice of 1860. The Original Secession
church, in Laurieston-street, is a plain building.
The Augustine Independent church, on George
IV.'s bridge, is an elegant structure of 1859-61, in
the Byzantine style, with tower and minaret. The
Independent chapel in Richmond-place is a pleas-
ing edifice of 1842, in early Gothic. The Indepen-
dent chapel in Albany-street and Broughton-street
was built in 1816, at a cost of £4,009, and has a
neat front in mixed Roman style. The Catholic
Apostolic church, in Broughton-street, has a neat
Ionic front. The Evangelical Union chapel, block-
ing the head of Brighton-street, has a Roman front
of curved contour, with pilasters and pediment.
The Methodist chapel, in Nicolson-square, has a
handsome Roman front, with basement arcade and
crowning balustrade. The Baptist chapel in Dub-
lin-street is a handsome Gothic edifice of 1858, with
a double transept and a spirelet. The Baptist chapels
in Bristo-place and West Rose-street have neat Ro-
man fronts. The Baptist chapels in Leith-walk
and Roxburgh-place, and the Glassite chapel in
Barony-street, are plain buildings. The Unitarian
chapel, in Castle-terrace, has a Roman-Corinthian
front, and is curious for having been closely under-
mined by the tunnel of the Edinburgh and Glasgow
railway.
St. Mary's Roman Catholic church, in Broughton-
street, was built in 1813, at a cost of £8,000; shows
a handsome Gothic front, with pinnacles 70 feet
high ; and has a fine organ and a splendid altar-
piece. St. Patrick's Roman Catholic church, in
Cowgate, was built in 1771-4, at a cost of £7,000;
belonged originally to the Episcopalians, and was
long occupied by Presbyterians ; is in the Italian
style, with a small steeple ; and contains wall-
paintings by Runciman. A St. Patrick's church,
in Lothian-street and Bristo-place, occupied by the
Roman Catholics prior to their purchase of the
present one, was built in 1839, has a handsome
pinnacled Gothic front, and is now used for Roman
Catholic schools. The Roman Catholic church of
the Sacred Heart, in Laurieston-street, was built in
1859-60, and has an Italian front and cupola lights.
St. Margaret's convent, at the southern extremity
of Burntsfield-links, was erected in 1835, after de-
signs by Gillespie Graham. The convent of the
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552
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sisters of mercy, in Laurieston, adjacent to Chal-
mers' hospital, is an edifice of 1861, in the collegiate
style. — The Protestant institute of Scotland, on
George IV. 's bridge, a plain pleasing edifice, with
large hall, in the course of erection in 1862, may be
noticed in this place as a more appropriate one for
it than any other. Its promoters are persons of
various evangelical denominations; and its objects
are to give training in controversial matters against
Roman Catholicity to students for the Christian
ministry.
Cemeteries. — Burying-grounds, though not edifices
themselves, contain much sculptural work and
some architectural work; and being always associ-
ated with churches either in fact or in fancy, they
may be noticed more appropriately here than in any
other connexion. And in order that they may all
be seen in one group, the extinct ones may be
noticed conjointly with the extaut.
The first great cemetery of Edinburgh lay around
St. Giles' church, in the area afterwards occupied by
Parliament-close, and was extended down the slope
toward the Cowgate, on the ground afterwards oc-
cupied by parliament-bouse and the law-courts.
Part of this continued in use in the latter part of
the 16th century, for the remains of John Knox
were interred in it in 1572; but the whole was
soon afterwards so completely secularized that,
in 1607, the site of it was made the scene of
a magnificent civic banquet to King James on
occasion of bis return to his Scottish capital.
In 1800, the last relic of it was discovered at the
head of Forrester's-wynd, which bad been the
cemetery's western boundary. This was a long
stone, part of a decorated gateway, curiously sculp-
tured with a group resembling Holbein's Dance of
Death; but it was almost instantly destroyed by the
workmen who discovered it. The whole cemetery
was for a long time horridly overcrowded; yet so
complete became the elfacement of it that even the
locality of Knox's grave totally ceased to be known.
— Several other ancient burying grounds within or
near the city became extinct; but none of them,
except this, was either extensive or famous.
The cemetery of Holyrood was for ages the ceme-
tery of the Canongate; but it afterwards came, like
the abbey-church itself, to be restricted fro the palace.
Only the parts of it containing the ashes of the
great and the noble, therefore, have escaped obliter-
ation. The royal vault is within the church ruins,
and contains the remains of David II., James II.,
James V., and Henry Lord Darnley. — The present
Canongate burying-ground dates only from 1688.
It possesses all the interest of any crowded urban
cemetery, and has an interest of its own for contain-
ing the remains of Dr. Adam Smith, Professor
Dugald Stewart, the poet Fergusson, the attainted
Lord Cromarty, and the philanthropic Provost Drum-
mond. — St. Cuthbert's burying-ground, around the
church of St. Cuthbert's, is at once ancient, large,
and crowded, containing many a pleasant monu-
ment, together with the ashes of not a few persons
who have variously figured on the roll of fame.
Branch-connexions of this cemetery also exist at
Buccleuch-church and at Newington. — The High
Oalton burying-ground has already been incidentally
noticed in connection with Waterloo place and with
Hume's monument. It is a cemetery sufficiently
curious for some of its contents, and not a little re-
markable for its site, surmounting a lofty cliff on one
side, and enclosed on the three others by respec-
tively the metropolitan prison, a lofty retaining-
wall, and the general post-office. — The Low Calton
burying-ground occupies large part of the slope
between the Regent-road and the North-back of the
Canongate, but, except for being in some degree
ultra-mural and ornamental, it has not any parti-
cularly noticeable feature.
The Greyfriars' cemetery succeeded St. Giles' as
the chief cemetery of the city; and, in spite of its
comparatively great extent, it soon and long became
overcrowded, — eventually to such a degree as to be
noisome and pestilential. But of late years, it has
been relieved from pressure, and dressed out taste-
fully with walks and shrubs. " Around its walls,"
remarks the writer of Modern Edinburgh, " are a
number of beautiful and richly sculptured monu-
ments of the 16th and 17th centuries, in the ornate
style of the period, many of them quaintly adorned
with emblems and ingenious devices, representative
of mortality, the resurrection, hope, &c, as well as
with heraldic decorations, monograms, &c. To
these the touch of time has added additional riches;
and the effect of the whole is exceedingly striking,
when we look on these monuments as the memorials
of distinguished men whose graves lie crowded
around." There are also some fine monuments of
modern style, mingling and contrasting with the
olden ones; while great part of the walks com-
mands most impressive views of the castle-rock, the
castle-hill, and the architectural masses of the
eastern Old town, picturesquely blending the an-
cient and the modern, the durable and the evan-
escent, a great multitude of things in many a
fashion speaking all of the mortality of man. There
lie in this cemetery the remains of George Buch-
anan, George Heriot, Alexander Henderson, some
of the martyrs of the Covenant, Sir George Mac-
kenzie, Sir James Stewart, Principal Carstairs, Prin-
cipal Bobertson, Dr. Pitcairn, Sir John de Medina,
Allan Ramsay, Colin Maclaurin, Dr. M'Crie, and
many other men of high celebrity. — St. John's
cemetery, around St. John's Episcopal church, is
small but very tasteful, and blends, in the general
view, with the contiguous cemetery of St. Cuth-
bert's.
Warriston cemetery is a modern ultra-mural
burying-ground, in the manner of the Parisian Pere-
la-chaise. It occupies a southward slope, on the
north side of the Water-of-Leith, 600 yards north by
east of Canonmills. It was so unfortunate as to be
bounded along the west by the main trunk of the
Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway, and cut
across the middle by that railway's branch to Leith ;
but it has been tolerably well retrieved from these
disadvantages by high walls ; and in all other re-
spects it is very finely situated, exposing nearly its
whole surface to multitudes of points of observation
within the New town, and commanding from all its
walks one of the richest of the many rich northern
views of the city and its environs. One approach
is by a bridge over the railway on the north-west ;
and another is by a bridge over the Water of Leith,
on the south. The grounds of the cemetery are
laid out most tastefully ; the walks broad and wind-
ing ; some buildings for catacombs, and for sheltered
places of interment, so constructed both in them-
selves and with reference to the contiguous surfaces
as to produce a very pleasing effect; and a hand-
some Gothic chapel, for the burial-service of the
Episcopalians, rising in the centre. Five other
ultra -mural burying-grounds were formed sub-
sequently to the Warriston, all on the same general
plan as it, and all vieing with it and with one an
other in both embellishment and economy, yet none
of them equal to it in beauty of situation. One of
them, the Rosebank, is on the Pilrig-road, near
North Leitli ; two, the Dean and the Dairy, the
former containing the remains of Lords Jeffrey,
Cockburn, and Rutherford, and Professors Wilson
5
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553
EDINBURGH.
nnd Forbes, are in tlie western environs; and two,
tlio Grange and tbe Newington, tlie former contain-
ing the remains of Dr. Chalmers, Sheriff Spiers, Sir
Andrew Agnew, Sir Thomas Diek Lauder, and
Hugh Miller, are in tbe southern environs.
Extinct Edifices.
Tlie City Wails. — In 1450, James II. empowered
tbe magistrates of Edinburgh to fortify tlie city with
a wall, and to levy money from tbe inhabitants for
its erection. The line of this wall, together with
that of its subsequent enlargements, affords a joint
view of tbe ancient structures of the city, and of its
early extent and progress. A wall or defence, con-
structed before the time of James II., ran on the
west, almost directly north from tlie foot of tlie
Castle-esplanade; it was then interrupted by the
North Loch, which served as a substitute; and
probably tbe wall was thence continued to the
foot of Leith-wynd. From the latter locality to tbe
head of Canongate or foot of High-street, an unin-
terrupted range of houses on the west side, con-
tinued tbe line of defence. The wall of James II.
was strengthened at the foot of the north-east rock
of the Castle with a small fortress; it thence ran
eastward along the south side of the North Loch
till it came nearly opposite the foot of the Castle-
esplanade; it then took a southerly direction till it
gained the summit of the hill; and it was there cut
with a gate of communication between the town
and castle. The wall now ran obliquely down
the hill toward the south-east till it arrived at the
first turn in the descent of the West Bow; and it
was here perforated with a gate called the Upper-
Bow-port. From this gate it proceeded nearly due
east along the face of the ridge between High-street
and Cowgate, till it struck Gray's-close or Mint-
close; thence it debouched, north-eastward, till it
touched the High-street a little west of the head
of Leith-wynd ; here, it was intersected by a gate
of communication between the city and Canongate;
and afterwards it went down the west side of Leith-
wynd, and then turned westward to make a junction
with its commencement at the north-east foot of the
Castle rock. The ancient city was thus shut up
within very narrow limits. It consisted of simply
the High-street, part of some of the alleys leading
from it, and the whole of others; and was obliged
to acquire extension by lifting its buildings upward
in tbe air, rather than by the usual method of ex-
tending them along the surface, — especially as, while
its area was so small, the fashion of the age urged
multitudes of persons to seek residence within the
royalty.
In 1513 an extended wall was built. This
affected chiefly the southern district. It began at
the base of the south-east corner of tbe Castle rock;
it thence extended obliquely to the west end of the
Grassmarket, and was there intersected by the gate
called the West-port; it now ascended part of the
bill called the High-riggs, and, turning eastward,
ran along the north side of the park of Heriot's
hospital; it next, on approaching Bristo-street, de-
bouched northward, passing through part of what
is now the cemetery of Greyfriars; it then turned
eastward, leaving openings "for gates called Bristo-
port and Potterrow-port, in the line of those
streets: it next went southward for a few yards,
from Potterrow-port, and then, making an ab-
rupt turn, wended its way along the south side
of the present college, and the north side of tbe
present Drummond-street, till it touched the Plea-
sance ; and itthere debouched almost at a right angle
to the north, and thenceforth pursued its way, in-
tersected by Cowgate-port and St. Mary-wynd-port,
to the point of the original wall west of the head oi
Canongate. Considerable parts of this wall, espe-
cially where it stretches along the north of Drum-
mond-street, and the west of the north end of Plea-
sance, still exist.
The gate called the Netherbow, with which the
wall was pierced on its crossing the High-street,
stood originally about 50 yards west of the present
termination of High-street; but, being found to oc-
cupy a position unfavourable to defence, was super-
seded, in 1571, by another, on the line of St. Mary's-
wynd and Leith-wynd, which was built by tbe
adherents of Queen Mary. A third, and very beau-
tiful gate, supplanted the latter in 1606, and was
reared on its site. This port was the principal en-
trance to the city, and has been rendered famous in
history by a bill, in consequence of tbe indignation
excited by what was called the Porteous' mob, hav-
ing passed parliament for razing it to tbe ground.
Tlie buildings of the port went quite across the
High-street, and disappeared in the houses on the
sides. The gate was in the centre, perforating a
bouse-like structure of two stories high, springing
its arch from the summit of the lower story, and
surmounted by a handsome square tower, termi-
nating in battlements, and bearing aloft a tapering
hexagonal spire. South of the gate was a wicket
for foot-passengers. But the whole structure, pur-
suant to the decree of parliament, was pulled down
in 1764. — At the foot of Leitb-wynd was a gate
called Leith-wynd-port; beside which was a wicket
giving access to Trinity college church. — A wall
also was thrown round the Canongate; and on the
east was perforated with a gate, called the Water-
gate.
The Ancient Street-Architecture. — From paucity
of space, and in imitation of the Scottish nation's
allies, the French, the houses of ancient Edinburgh
were piled to an enormous height, rising, in many
instances, to twelve stories. The access to the
separate lodgings in these huge structures, called
lands, was by common stairs, combining the incon-
veniences of steepness, filth, and darkness.' — The
earliest architecture of the city consisted, as in
other contemporaneous burghs, of domestic build-
ings only a degree superior to the primitive cot-
tage, and presenting to the eye, at best, a strongly
built ground flat, with a frail superstructure of
timber, and a front garniture of balcony or open
gallery. A second stage of the city's architecture
exhibited houses of three stories, the first of stone,
and the second and third of timber. A third stage
improved upon the second, simply in constructing
all tbe stories of stone, and occasionally aspiring to
a fourth story of the same material. A fourth stage,
overpowered by an influx of inhabitants, and pent in
by walls which assigned it a very limited area,
sprung aloft like the lark into tbe air, and sought
those enjoyments in aspiring towards the clouds
which could not be obtained by an attempt to move
along the surface. A fifth stage, incomparably the
brightest and most brilliant of them all, burst the
cerements of the ancient walls, and walked forth in
architectural life and beauty, constructing the North
bridge and the South bridge as media of extension
towards the wide fields north and south of the hill-
ridge of the original site, conjuring up tbe southern
New town between 1774 and 1790, completing the
northern New town between 1801 and 1826, branch-
ing off into the most splendid part of the Eastern
New town between 1813 and 1828, shooting away
into the Western New town between 1823 and 1830,
and luxuriating in all directions round the ancient
city with the freedom of movement and the gaudi-
ness of attire indicative of transition from slavery to
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554
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freedom, or from incarceration to the breathing of
the open air, and the surveying of the joyous scenes
of one of the most beautiful landscapes in the world.
What we have called the fourth stage of the city's
architectural progress extended from at least the
middle of the 16th century till considerably past the
middle of the 18th. Fynes Moryson, an English
traveller who visited Edinburgh in 1598, says, —
" The houses are built of unpolished stone, and in
the fore-street good part of them is of freestone,
which in that broad street would make a fair show,
but that the outsides of them are faced with wooden
galleries, built upon the second story." John Tay-
lor, another English traveller who visited Edin-
burgh in 1618, says, after noticing the castle, — "I
descended lower to the city, wherein I observed the
fairest and goodliest street that ever mine eyes be-
held ; for I did never see or bear of a street of the
length, the buildings on each side of the way being
all of squared stone, five, six, and seven stories high.
And there are many by-lanes and closes on each
side of the way, wherein are gentlemen's houses
much fairer than the buildings in the High-street,
for in the High-street the merchants and tradesmen
do dwell, but the gentlemen's mansions and good-
liest houses are obscurely founded in the aforesaid
lanes. The walls are exceedingly strong, not built
for a day, a week, a month, or a year, but from an-
tiquity to posterity, for many ages." The houses,
however, did not, according to the picture of them
in Marmion, lift " Gothic frontlets to the sky," but
were in a great degree in what is usually called the
Flemish style. There were in all Edinburgh, in
1753, according to Maitland's account, just 12
churches, 260 closes, 8 courts or small squares, 22
wynds, and the following 12 streets, Lawnmarket,
Luckenbooths, High-street, Canongate, Cowgate,
Grassmarket, Portsburgh, Pleasance, Potter-row,
Newington, Bristo-street, and Laurieston.
Extinct Civil Edifices. — The improvements on Edin-
burgh, especially the last and the long one, were not
unattended by demolitions of important or interest-
ing buildings. The demolished erection which of
all others is the most regretted, and, if allowed to
remain, would have continued to be the most beautiful
and ornamental, was the Cross, situated on the High-
street, a little below St. Giles'. This was a struc-
ture of mixed architecture, partly Grecian and partly
Gothic, octagonal in form and 16 feet in diameter.
After rising about 15 feet in height, it shot aloft
from its centre an octagonal pillar equal in height
to itself, and surmounted by an unicorn embracing
an upright spear of nearly twice its own length.
At each angle of the main building was an Ionic
pillar projecting at the top into a species of Gothic
bastion ; and between the pillars, before being sur-
mounted by the bastions, were modern arches.
Over the arches, in the spaces between the bastions,
heads were sculptured in the manner of a modern
medallion ; and over that which fronted the eastern
part of the High-street were sculptured in alto re-
lievo the city-arms. The access to the building
was by a door which fronted the Netherbow, and
gave ingress to a staircase leading to the platform
on the summit. The pillar which rose from this
platform was 18 inches in diameter, and had a Co-
rinthian capital, spangled with thistles. The town-
council of the day, — proving themselves to be of the
same kidney as the Mohammedan destroyers of the
Alexandrian library, the Goth and Vandal desolators
of Rome, and the plodding ' turn the penny ' specu-
lators, once potato-fed weavers, but eventually
monied, opulent, and signally illiterate and self-
conceited ' pi-actical men ' of a manufacturing town,
— conceived the beautiful cross — such a structure
as their booby heads could not have devised in a
millennium — to be an obstruction in the thorough-
fare of the High-street, where a dozen structures of
its bulk might have stood without molesting even
the ten thousand carters of Glasgow, had it been
placed in that noisiest of all other cities, and much
less the few carriage and cab-drivers of Edinburgh ;
and, in 1756, it was ordered to be pulled down. The
demolishers believed, very justly, that they were
working for a name among posterity ; and they have
fully obtained what they sought, though of very
different quality from what they desired. Scotland's
mightiest minstrel, for example, has said — he whose
own monumental cross is now the grandest struc
ture of its class in the world —
" Dunedin's cross, a pillar*d stone,
Rose on a turret octagon.
But now is razed that monument
Whence royal edict rang,
And voice of Scotland's law was sent
In glorious trumpet clang.
0! be his tomb as lead to lead;
Upon its dull destroyer's head
A minstrel's malison is said."
With strange perversity of taste, a huge hulk of
a building, erected in the reign of Charles II., which
served as a guard-house to the military police, and
had at the west end a dungeon or blackhole for the
incarceration of the unruly, and which was situated
on the south side of Upper High-street, was allowed
to incumber the thoroughfare more than 30 years
after the demolition of the elegant cross. — At the
head of the Lawn-market, or foot of Castle- street,
formerly stood a public Weigh-house, rearing aloft
a neat spire. When this erection and the Netherbow
and the cross existed, their spires combined with
those of St. Giles and the Tron-church, to give the
line of High-street an appearance of city architec-
tural decoration greatly superior to what it now
possesses. But for some surpassingly strange reason ,
which is not recorded, the Weigh-house was, about
1666, denuded of its spire, and left, in the naked
clumsiness and deformity of its hulk, to disfigure the
thoroughfare till 1822. — The principal incumbrance
to the High-street was a range of buildings, called
the Luckenbooths, rising to nearly the height of the
houses on the street-line, stretching parallel with
the side of St. Giles', and terminating at the west
end in the Old Tolbooth of the city. A lane for
foot-passengers ran between the Luckenbooths and
St. Giles', and was lined on both sides with small
shops, — those on the south side adhering like ex-
crescences to the ecclesiastical edifice, and bearing
the name of the krames. Erom the east end of
this lane, a flight of steps led off past St. Giles ; and
from a statue of the Virgin Mary being placed in a
niche on the side, was called St. Mary's steps. The
Luckenbooths were built to serve as warehouses or
shops, probably as early as during the reign of James
III. ; and the krames began to be erected in 1555;
and both, along with the Tolbooth, were pulled
down in 1817, — their demolition laying the north
front of St. Giles fully open to the view, and con-
verting the Old High-street and the Lawn-market
into a continuous and uniform thoroughfare.
The Old Tolbooth, coeval with the Luckenbooths,
was originally used for the confinement of prisoners,
for the shops of tradesmen, for the courts of the
burgh, and even for the meetings of parliament.
But after 1640 it was wholly distributed, on the
ground-floor, into shops, and, on the other floors,
into the apartments of a prison. The building con-
sisted of two parts: the eastern was a square tower,
with a spiral stair, and was closely akin in structure
to the numerous strongholds which dotted the bor-
der-counties, and were used as residences and rally-
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000
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ing-points by the reavers of a marauding ago; the
western part was a parallelogram of nibble-work,
and of later origin than its curious companion. In
the tower were first a large room for the use of in-
carcerated debtors, next and higher up apartments
for the confinement of criminals, and over the top of
all a strong box for the safe custody of an important
and peculiarly dangerous felon. The parallelogram
was distributed into apartments for debtors. The
Old Tolbooth, under a quaint name popularly applied
to it, furnished at onco title, incidents, and graphic
materials to the novel which more than any other
of his productions gave celebrity to Sir Walter Scott,
—that of ' The Heart of Mid-Lothian.' — The build-
ings around the Parliament-close, immediately pre-
ceding those which now stand there, were a curious
medley in both their architecture and their uses.
" The dead wall of the old parliament-house was
partially broken up with sundry motley patches of
ornament, and surmounted with a barbarous em-
brasured balcony, terminated at the corners with
turrets of similar character. On the south was to
be seen, towering to the clouds, a certain lofty tene-
ment, in its day one of the lions of Edinburgh, con-
taining above a dozen stories, all densely peopled
by a respectable class of inhabitants. On the east
side was the fine old house or land which was
burned down in 1824, with its piazza walk, under
which was situated John's coffeehouse, once the
resort of Dr. Piteairn and other wits of the day ; and
farther on were situated the shops of the principal
jewellers and booksellers, wherein were wont to
congregate daily the great and learned of the
land."
The West Bow, which ascended from the foot of
the Grassmarket to the head of the Lawnmarket,
forming the principal avenue by which wheel car-
riages reached the elevated parts of the city, con-
tained a large amount of curious old architecture.
Though one of the narrowest, steepest, noisiest, and
most tortuous carriage-ways in the world, it was a
centre of at once trade, wealth, fashion, and popular
display, where fortunes were made, great deeds were
done, nightly assemblies were held, and at least six
monarchs made a public entry into the city.
" Scarcely anything can be conceived more curious
and whimsically grotesque than its array of
irregular stone gables and timber galleries, which
seemed as if jostling one another for room along the
steep and narrow thoroughfare. Here were the
Templar lands, with their antique gables surmounted
by the cross that marked them as beyond the reach of
civic corporation laws, and with their old world as-
sociations with the knights of St. John of Jerusalem.
Here was the strange old timber-fronted tenement
where rank and beauty held their assemblies in the
olden time. Here was the provost's lodging, where
Prince Charles and his elated counsellors were en-
tertained in 1745; and adjoining it there remained
till the last a memento of his royal ancestor James
II. 's massive wall, and of the old port or bow where-
at the magistrates were wont to present the silver
keys, with many a grave and costly ceremonial, to
each monarch who entered his Scottish capital in
state." Here also were the mansion of Lord Ruth-
ven, the slayer of Rizzio, and memorials of Porteous,
and of the martyrs of the covenant, on their way to
execution. The greater part of the West Bow was
swept away by the making of the New Western
approach, George IV.'s bridge, and Victoria-street ;
and strangers who look at the remains of it have
difficulty in believing that it could ever have been
a carriage-way, the more so as the present com-
munication from the upper part of it to the lower is
a long flight of steps which dives right into the
causeway, and winds through the heart of an cdi-
ficed terrace.
In a small park through which Nicolson-street
was cut, stood a pillar to the memory of Lady
Nicolson. It was a very neat and chaste fluted
Corinthian column, rising 30 or 40 feet from a
pedestal which bore an appropriate inscription.
When the improvements of the South bridge exten-
sion were made, it was ' underfooted.' and in that
state it remained for many years at the north end
of Nicolson-street; but it was eventually removed
in some manner unrecorded, and was not long ago
seen as a piece of lumber in the Kiding-school. —
The part of Shakespeare-square which was removed
at the forming of Waterloo-place, stood across the
end of Prince's-street with its front, and overhung
the ravine of Low Calton with its rear. About the
middle of it, looking down Prince's-street, was the
Shakespeare-tavern and Coffee-house, which was
the resort of the elite, and the most celebrated house
of its class in Scotland. — In the eastern part of the
open area of Drummond-place, on a line with Dub-
lin-street and Scotland-street, stood a large fine
edifice, originally the mansion of General Scott, but
afterwards the excise-office. This was removed in
1845, in consequence of being undermined by the
tunnel of the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee rail-
way, the house itself being sold to the railway com-
pany for £3,200 to make way for their tunnel, and
the site of it, together with the attached ground, for
£1,280 to the proprietors of Drummond-place, for
conversion into permanent pleasure-ground.
Extinct Ecclesiastical Edifices. — The Collegiate
church of St. Mary in the Pields was situated on
the ground now covered by the university, or pro-
bably a little to the southward, very nearly on the
site of the present United Presbyterian church in
South College-street. Attached to it were a pro-
vost and 10 prebendaries. From its originally
standing beyond the city-walls, though afterwards
included within them, it was called the Kirk-of-
Field, — the name by which principally it is known
in history. Within the church was held the cele-
brated assembly of Scottish ecclesiastics, convoked
by Bagimont the papal nuncio, for the purpose of
ascertaining the value of benefices throughout the
country. The valuation made by this assembly was
made the standard at Home for taxing the ecclesias-
tics of Scotland, and, under the name of Bagimont's
roll, is a standard authority with historians in glanc-
ing at the financial matters of the Scottish ante-
Reformation establishment. The provost's house
connected with the Kirk-of-Field has been rendered
immortally infamous in history as the scene of the
murder of Darnley.
The monastery of Blackfriars was instituted by
Alexander II., in 1230, and stood within the grounds
of the Kirk-of-Field, on the site of the Old High
school. The gardens around it occupied the whole
space on the south side of the Cowgate, between the
Pleasance and Potter-row. The monks received
also from the royal founder of their convent a piece
of ground long since covered with buildings, and
along which extends the narrow street appropriately
called Blackfriars- wynd. The monastery had fre-
quently as a resident within its walls the person of
its founder ; and, in consequence, came currently to
be called ' Mansio Regis,' the king's dwelling-house.
A building belonging to the monks was an episcopal
residence of the archbishop of St. Andrew's, which
not long ago could be traced in Blackfriars-wynd.
In 1528 the monastery was destroyed by fire ; and
it was hardly re-edified, when, along with its ap-
purtenances, it was swept away by the Reformation.
The lands belonging to it were bestowed by Queen
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Mary upon the magistrates for building an hospital
and supporting the poor; and, under James VI.,
they were disposed of in feus, and the proceeds ap-
plied to the building and endowing of Trinity hos-
pital.— The monastery of Greyfriars, situated on the
south side of the Grassmarket, nearly opposite the
West-bow, was established by James I. The house
was so splendid that the first monks, invited from
Cologne in Germany, refused for a while to enter it,
and were with difficulty prevailed upon to adopt it
as their abode. Around it were spacious gardens,
which afterwards became the site of the existing
Greyfriars churches and cemetery.
East of the monastery of Greyfriars was an hos-
pital of remote but unknown antiquity, called Maison
Dieu. This structure having, at the beginning of
the 1 6th century, become ruinous, a citizen erected
beside it a chapel and hospital dedicated to St. Mary
Magdalene. This foundation was designed to ac-
commodate a chaplain and 7 poor men ; but it was
endowed with a pitiful annuity, and vested in trust
with the corporation of hammermen, — whose poor
still reap the benefit of its funds. The chapel still
exists; and, though very small, was not long ago
let and occupied as a place of worship. The steeple
of it also continues entire, and is one of the most
noticeable old curiosities of the city, the more so
for having its top but a trifle higher than the neigh-
bouring roadway of George IV.'s bridge. — About
the middle of Niddry-street was a chapel dedicated
to God and the Virgin Mary, and founded in 1505
by Elizabeth, Countess of Ross. The corporations
of wrights and masons, in 1618, acquired a right to
it, and, in consequence, assumed the name of the
united corporations of St. Mary's chapel. — Near the
head of St. Mary's-wynd, on the west side, were a
chapel and convent of Cistertian nuns, and an hos-
pital dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Erom the last
the narrow street has its name. — In Leith-wynd an
hospital for the support of 12 poor men was founded
in 1479, by Thomas Spence, bishop of Aberdeen,
and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. At the Refor-
mation it passed into the possession of the town-
council, obtained the unaccountable name of Paul's
work, and was converted first into a workhouse,
next into a house of correction, and next into a
broad-cloth factory. Its name of Paul's work is be-
queathed to a court and cluster of buildings on and
around its site. — A little north of Paul's work, on
the face of the bank leading up to the New town,
stood a chapel dedicated to St. Niniau, which, till a
recent date, gave to the thoroughfare of Low Calton
the name of St. Ninian's-row.
On the west side of the foot of Canongate, im-
mediately adjoining the Watergate, was an hospital,
founded in the reign of James V., by George Crich-
ton, bishop of Dunkeld, and dedicated to God, the
Virgin Mary, and all saints. This was a foundation
of great celebrity; and, besides lodging and sup-
porting 7 poor men, provided out-door allowance to
30 poor persons, and a salary to two chaplains to
officiate at the altars of St. Andrew and St. Cath-
erine in the chapel of Holyrood. In 1617 the
magistrates of Canongate purchased it from the
chaplains and bedesmen, and converted it, under the
new name of St. Thomas' hospital, into a lodging-
house for their poor; and in 1634 they sold it to the
kirk-session, to be still used as an hospital. Even-
tually it suffered an embezzlement of its entire
revenues, and, for 30 years before being pulled
down, in 1778, was converted into coach-houses. —
Near the base of the north side of Arthur's-seat
stood the chapel and hermitage of St. Anthony.
The site, though in the immediate neighbourhood
of a populous city, is still remarkably sequestered.
The cell of the hermitage still remains, 16 feet long,
12 broad, and 8 high. The rock rises within 2 feet
of the stone arch which forms its roof, and overlooks
a beautiful crystal rill celebrated in an old Scottish
ballad. Nine yards east of the hermitage stood the
chapel. This was a beautiful Gothic building, 43
feet long, 18 wide, and 18 high. At its west 'end
rose a tower, 1 9 feet square, and 40 feet high. — At
the north-east base of Calton-hill a Carmelite mon-
astery or friary was erected in 1526; but it was de-
stroyed at the Reformation. On its site was built
an hospital for lepers, subject to regulations which
evince both the frequent prevalence of leprosy in a
former age, and the great dread in which the dis-
temper was held. — On the south side of the city, in
various localities within the parish of St. Cuthbert,
stood seven old ecclesiastical edifices which have
been noticed in our article Cuthbert's (St.).
The most celebrated of all the extinct ecclesi-
astical edifices of Edinburgh is Holyrood abbey.
This, as regards its history and general character, has
already been noticed in the section on "Holyrood."
It was an edifice of great size, as well as of great
magnificence, comprising all the parts of a first-
class cathedral, nave, transepts, and choir, together
with a large extent of residence for its princely
abbot, its numerous canons, and its frequent noble
or royal guests. What now remains of it is only
the ruins of the nave; and as even this measures
148 feet in length and 66 feet in breadth, the vast-
ness of the whole when entire may easily be sur-
mised. The transepts, choir, and cloisters were
totally demolished by the English in 1543 ; but they
may be presumed to have exactly corresponded in
style and execution with the nave. The walls of
this were strengthened by elegant flying buttresses,
and ornamented with tiers of small pointed arches
resting on slender shafts. Each of the principal
windows was divided into two apertures by pillars;
these apertures were headed with pointed arches;
one arch of a similar form enclosed both; and in
the spandril between them were quatrefoil orna-
ments. At the restoring of the ruined nave into a
chapel-royal by Charles II., a throne was erected
for the sovereign, twelve stalls were erected for the
knights of the thistle, and the floor was paved with
marble. The original charter of the abbey still
exists in the archives of the town-council. This
document conferred on the canons the privilege of
erecting the burgh which took from them the name
of Canongate. It also bestowed upon them the
churches of Edinburgh-castle, St. Cuthbert's, Liber-
ton, Corstorphine, and Airth, and the priories of St.
Mary's Isle in Galloway, Blantyre in Clydesdale,
Eowadill in Ross, and Crusay, Oronsay, and Colon-
say in the Hebrides. They had also the fishings of
the Water of Leith, the privilege of mills at the
place still called from them Canonmills, the right
of certain revenues from the Exchequer, grants of
lands in various places additional to those we have
mentioned, a very extensive jurisdiction, and a
right of trial by duel and of the water and fire
ordeal. Their yearly income at the Reformation
comprised 442 bolls of wheat, 640 bolls of bear, 560
bolls of oats, 500 capons, 24 hens, 24 salmon, 12
loads of salt, and £250 in money. — A pretty little
Gothic well, in the vicinity of the abbey, built about
the beginning of the 14th century, and long re-
garded as "holy," still yields a limpid stream.
Another well in the southern outskirts of the city,
impregnated with the bituminous substance petro-
leum, called the balm well of St. Catherine, and
long treated with superstitious awe by the Roman-
ists, was formerly covered with a beautiful little
chapel. There also existed a chapel of Holyrood in
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the lower part of the cemetery of St. Giles', called
the Nether kirk -yard, on the ground now occupied
by the law-courts.
Sanatory Condition,
Seicerage. — By sanatory condition, in this place,
we do not mean either vital statistics or the com-
parative salubi'iousncss of the climate, but we mean
the local terrene circumstances by which the public
health is affected. And one of the most prominent
of these is sewerage. The state of this throughout
the greater part of the New town, and in some of
the new parts of the Old, is unexceptionable,— all
under-ground, minutely ramified, and receiving all
fluid impurities, through pipes, from every house.
But in some parts of the New town, and through-
out the greater part of the Old, it is only a surface-
drainage for even the foulest matters to gratings
and great ducts; and wherever unconnected, as it
extensively is unconnected, by pipes with the in-
terior of houses, it is all a monster-nuisance, — at
some hours of the twenty-four utterly horrible to both
health and smell, and at all hours offensive. The
declivitousness of many of the streets, indeed, is
strongly favourable to natural flushings in the time
of rains; and the efforts of the police, in late years,
have been arduous and most praiseworthy to make
artificial flushings at all times of threatened pesti-
lence. Still the state of the drainage is essentially
bad, aud must ever remain so till the whole city and
suburbs shall be put under the same system as the
best parts of the New town. The Water of Leith,
which receives great part of the sewerage, has not
near water enough, especially in times of drought,
to carry it off; so that it is often, for weeks to-
gether," little else than a great open reeking com-
mon sewer. The attention of the authorities has
of late been much devoted to this matter ; and some
remedies have been applied, which have materially
mitigated the evil.
Police-Manure. — Edinburgh has little of that
system of diffused mammal accumulation which pre-
vails in Glasgow and some other large towns, and
which acts there as a constant provocative of pesti-
lential diseases. Ashes, rubbish, and all occasional
refuse, are carried off daily, at a stated hour, under a
code of special regulations, by well-appointed police
waggons. The regulations, however, cannot always
be enforced, — indeed are very generally infringed,
— insomuch that the contents of buckets, instead of
being discharged direct into the waggons, are very
generally emptied on the street, to lie there it may
lie for hours, or to be utterly scattered by bone-
gatherers and by the winds. Excrementitious
matters, also, in all the parts of the town where no
connecting-pipes exist between the houses and the
sewers, are treated and carried off in the same man-
ner as the ashes; and there the nuisance is fright-
ful,— all the more so that these parts of the town
are just the parts where the population is densest,
and the houses highest and most crowded. The
general deposits of the street manure, too, the pro-
digious heaps which are formed by the daily dis-
charge of the waggons, are perhaps not far enough
from the town, not secluded enough from the nearest
suburbs, not disposed of quickly enough to farmers;
bo that they have been blamed, we do not say with
what justice, as an appreciable exciting cause of
pestilence.
The general physical condition of the inhabitants
in the worst-drained parts of the city — as also their
moral condition in as far as that can be affected
through the physical— is deplorable. TVe are, in-
deed, glad to say that something considerable is in
the course of being done to ameliorate it; we would
likewise feel horror to say, even though it were im-
mensely worse than ever it has been, that moral in-
fluence, especially the Divine influence of Christi-
anity, cannot renovate it; still we feel bound to
quote the following account of it, which figured
conspicuously, not long ago, in the public prints: —
" In this part of the town there arc neither sewers
nor any private conveniencies whatever belonging
to the dwellings; and hence the excrementitions and
other refuse of at least 50,000 persons is, during the
night, thrown into the gutters, causing (in spite of the
scavenger's daily labours) an amount of solid filth
and foetid exhalation disgusting to both sight and
smell, as well as exceedingly prejudicial to health.
Can it be wondered that, in such localities, health,
morals, and common decency should be at once ne-
glected? No; all who know the private condition of
the inhabitants will bear testimony to the immense
amount of their disease, misery, and demoralization.
Society in these quarters have sunk to a state in-
describably vile and wretched; and as Mr. Chambers
observes, in a letter to the poor-law commissioners,
1 they have gravitated to a point of wretchedness
from which no efforts of the pulpit, the press, or the
schoolmaster can raise them, for they are too deeply
sunk in physical distress, and far too obtuse in their
moral perceptions, to derive advantage from any
such means of amelioration.' The dwellings of the
poorer classes are generally very filthy, apparently
never subjected to any cleaning process whatever,
consisting in most cases of a single-room, ill-venti-
lated and yet cold, owing to broken, ill-fitting
windows, sometimes damp and partially under
ground, and always scantily furnished and alto-
gether comfortless, heaps of straw often serving for
beds, in which a whole family, male and female,
young and old, are huddled together in revolting
confusion. The supplies of water are obtained only
from the public pumps, and the trouble of procuring
it of course favours the accumulation of all kinds of
abominations. The result of such a state of things
will be found by referring to Dr. Alison's work on
the ' Management of the Poor in Scotland.' It is
there stated that, owing to the crowded and intoler-
ably filthy state of the lodgings, the lanes and
closes of the Old town are scarcely ever free from
malignant fever, and that in the city itself the
mortality (1837-8,) amounted to 4 J percent (1 in 22,)
almost equal to that of the plague-depopulated Con-
stantinople. Such facts are quite appalling, and
should rouse the authorities to exertion. Nothing
short of a pretty extensive demolition of the Old
town will stay the evil; and surely if the lives of
thousands are at stake, the consideration of property
should not be allowed to retard the reform."
Irrigated Meadows.— Some small tracts of low
ground in the northern and western outskirts of the
city, and a very large tract in the eastern environs,
extending all the way from the vicinity of Holyrood
by Restalrig to the frith of Forth, are disposed in
foul-water irrigation meadows,- — being kept in a
state of constant swamp by the effusion over them
of the contents of great common sewers from the
city. This irrigation produces large crops of herb-
age, but is a serious monster-nuisance, loathsome
to look upon, horrible to the olfactory nerves, and
probably not hindered by the abundant dilution of
the noxious gases arising from it with the pure air
of the surrounding high-grounds from doing material
injury to the public health. And even though it
could not be proved to aid directly any pestilence,
it at least is damaging to cheerfulness and mental
energy. In winter, when the irrigation is not much
practised, and the water is, for the most part, either
diluted with rains or allowed to flow directly to the
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558
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frith, very little disagreeable odour arises from the
meadows; hut in summer, when the irrigation is
vigorously prosecuted, a strong odour, sometimes a
heavy stench, is diffused; and in dry, sunny, hot
weather, in particular, — especially if a keen wind
blowfrom the east, bringing up to the city the exhala-
tions from the whole length of the meadows, and
from their greatest breadths, and holding these close
to the ground by means of thick fogs — the odour
becomes comparatively far-spread and is disgust-
ingly offensive.
Public Promenades. — The spacious garden-areas of
the New town, the wide valley between the New and
Old, the protrusion of the skirts of the Castle-rock,
the protrusion of the Calton-hill, and the overhang-
ing of Salisbury-crags and Arthur-seat, all serve as
"lungs" to the city, for exhaling bad air and in-
haling good. The scenery of the gardens and of
the environs also acts well on the public health by
contributing to the cheerfulness of the mind. The
right of access to the enclosed gardens, likewise, by
families all around them who own houses or pay for
garden-keys, is or might be an aid to the health of
these families only a degree less powerful than the
exclusive possession of small pleasure-parks in the
country. The public right of entrance to the Bo-
tanic gardens, too, together with extensive leave of
promiscuous admission to public nurseries and to
the horticultural society's garden, is a privilege of
health, as well as of instruction, worth much money,
but which, through some strange perversity, does
not appear to be greatly appreciated.
Public promenades, always open, readily accessible,
containing " ample scope and verge enough " for
games and exercise, are not so good or abundant in
Edinburgh as they ought -to be, but nevertheless are
much better than in many large towns, The Queen' s-
parli, as we noticed in the section on "Holyrood," is
a large grand privilege of this kind; and while
hitherto specially valuable to the inhabitants of the
Old town, it was recently enhanced to the inhabi-
tants of the New, by the forming of a pleasant ac-
cess direct from the Abbey-hill, so as to avoid the
abominations of Croft-an-righ and the Watergate.
The Calton-hill was monstrously curtailed by the
Regent and the London roads, by the Regent and
the Royal terraces, and especially by the enclosing
of all its gentler slopes to form pleasure-grounds to
the houses of these terraces and to the High-school,
so that little more than the crown of it was left
available for the public ; yet this has been so well en-
riched with walks, and been made so easily accessible
by stairs and gravelled-paths and carriage-way as to
form, together with the hill's own attractionsof height
and isolation and scenery, one of the finest public
promenades in the empire. The Borough-Moor,
once a common of great extent on the south side of
the city, has piece by piece been alienated in even
larger proportion than the Calton-hill, having parted
with all the beautiful pendicles which now aggre-
gately form what is popularly called Canaan ; yet a
very fine tract of it, with rich sward, undulating sur-
face, and charming side-views, still remains under the
name of Bruntsfield-links, serving not only for pedes-
trian exercise and all ordinary games, but for the ex-
cursive game of golf. The Meadows, extending east-
ward from Bruntsfield-links, to the vicinity of New-
ington, are a still finer piece of ground, and larger.
They are the site of an ancient lake, called the
Borough-loch. In the 17th century, that lake was
gradually drained; and in 1722, the marshes left by
it were let to Mr. Thomas Hope, under an obliga-
tion to drain and enclose them. These parts were
the eastern section of the Meadows, and have ever
since borne the name of Hope-park. The whole of
the Meadows were afterwards completely drained,
nicely levelled, beautifully enclosed, clumped with
wood, zoned all round and cut across the middle by
broad level avenues between lines of trees, and a
portion let for drying clothes, the rest for grazing
cattle. But by a new arrangement, made in 1854, the
whole, under certain regulations, have been thrown
open as a public promenade. The principal entrance
to them is from the east end of Laurieston, opposite
the end of Forrest-road, and is distinguished by
sculptured unicorns, bearing the old Scottish ban-
ner', " In defence." The archers'-hall, where the
Queen's body-guard for Scotland hold their meet-
ings, adjoins the walk at the north-east of the Mea-
dows ; and the butts for archery are set up, on field
days, in Hope-park.
A large field at Raebum-place, in Stockbridge,
was given to the public in 1854, by Mr. Hope of
Moray - place, under special regulations, as a
public promenade and place of athletic sports.
West Prince's-street gardens and the adjoining
slopes of the Castle-hill, like the enclosed parts of
the Calton-hill and the Borough-moor, are aliena-
tions of city commonage; and attempts have of late
been made by the town-council, though as yet un-
successfully, to obtain repossession of them by
purchase, or conjoint access to them by rental, for
the uses of the public, The East Prince's-street
gardens were formed in 1849-50, by means of a sum
of £4,400 received from the Edinburgh and Glasgow
railway Company. They extend from the Mound
to Waverley- bridge, and from Prince's-street tc
the vicinity of the Bank of Scotland. A level
terrace about 100 feet broad, with a gravel walk
along its centre 20 feet broad, extends along
the north side of the gardens, This terrace is
on the same level as the roadway of Prince's-
street, and is partly occupied by the Scott monu-
ment. The south margin of it is supported by a
stone wall, and surmounted by a handsome parapet,
four feet high, having pedestals at regular intervals
for the reception of a series of six statues. Two
fine flights of steps, each 15 feet wide at the top
and branching out towards the bottom with circular
wing-walls to nearly 30 feet, lead from the ends of
the terrace to a walk about 10 feet wide along the
middle of the face of the slope. The part of the
bank above this walk is carpeted with sward; and
the part belpw is planted with shrubbery, and inter-
spersed with walks. A large portion of the ground
at the bottom is occupied by the railway, and of
course neither belongs to the gardens nor contri-
butes anything to their beauty ; but this, besides
being enclosed by stone walls 4 feet high, is materi-
ally concealed by a grassy embankment gently
rising to a level with the coping of the wall, and
planted on the top with a hedge and shrubbery.
The grounds on the skirts of the Mound and all on
the south side have a much more diversified character,
largely dashed with the rural and the sylvan, in
consequence of the previous existence of old planta-
tions and paths ; and they combine with the sym-
metry of the north side, the flower-borders of the
walks, the transit of the railway, and the environing
romantic pity views of the New town and the Old,
of the North bridge and the Calton-hill, to produce
the most extraordinary groupings of scenery, to-
gether with the most rapid and startling transitions,
which exist anywhere in the world.
Baths. — Excellent facilities for summer sea-bath-
ing exist at the parts of the frith nearest the city,
especially at Granton, Scafield, and Portohello. The
dwelling-houses of even the New town of Edinburgh
are not near so generally provided witli fixture-baths
as the dwelling-houses in the new parts of Glasgow.
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559
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Good public baths exist for the upper and middle
classes, both in the city and in the neighbourhood.
Public baths for the Working-classes were long de-
siderated by some of these classes themselves ; and at
length, in 1844, subscriptions wore set a-foot to pro-
vide such a suite of them as should be accessible on
the most moderate terms. The subscriptions began
with spirit, but fell considerably short of the antici-
pated amount. A property was purchased at the
Low Calton, and sold at a profit to the North British
railway company. Another property was purchased
in Nicolson-sqiiare, and fitted excellently tip, but
not without incurring a debt of upwards of £1,000,
obtained on the personal obligation of some indi-
viduals, who necessarily became the immediate
managers. "The number of baths taken," says a
notice in 1852, "is gradually increasing, — a sure
indication that a taste for the bath is spreading
among the working and other classes in Edinburgh.
There is in fact nothing to regret but the burden of
debt which presses on the concern, and prevents the
extension and cheapening of baths for workmen, for
whose comfort no attention has been spared. The
baths are open every lawful day for the inspection
or use of visitors. In 1848, 17,529 baths were taken;
in 1849, 19,465; in 1850, 22,913; and in 1851,
24,822. The monev drawn in 1848 was £396 8s.
9id.; and in 1851, £569 2s. 9d. Large public swim-
ming baths, with very ample appliances, have sub-
sequently been established at South Back of Can-
ongate and at the foot of Pitt-street.
Judicial Courts.
National Functions. — Edinburgh is strictly the
metropolis of Scotland, — the theatre of everything
national which remained to the countiy after the
union of its crown and its parliament with those of
England. It is the central sphere of the officers of
state, the theatre of a royal household, the residence
of the Queen's body-guard for Scotland, and the seat
of all parts of the general establishment for the ad-
ministration of national justice, both politically and
ecclesiastically, and at the same time, of course, the
seat of the several jurisdictions for the city itself, and
for the different kinds of territorial divisions which
lie immediately around it. — So great is its char-
acter as the national theatre of justice, so vast the
concourse to it in that character, so many the rich
residents in it or well-paid functionaries in that
character, that its people live by this, directly or in-
directly, in almost as large proportion as the people
of Glasgow or Manchester live by the cotton-manu-
facture.
Some of the officers of the state, such as the
Keeper of the great seal, the Lord-privy-seal, the
Lord-clerk-register, and the Lord-justice-clerk, do
not necessarily reside in Edinburgh, and have either
merely nominal duties or such as are performed by
deputies. But the Lord-advocate, by a strange in-
consistency, wields such vast, varied, local powers
as would require his almost constant residence here
though he could multiply himself threefold, and yet
holds relations which compel him to spend a large
proportion of his time in London. He performs the
functions both of public prosecutor and of grand-
jury; he can seize any suspected person without
needing to name his informer, — can give liberty to
an accused person at any period previous to trial, —
and can interfere, even after trial, to avert capital
punishment; he is the confidential counsel of the
Crown in the national affairs of Scotland; he over-
sees and watches the whole country as to the con-
servation of its peace, and presides over or affects
its entire executive; and as its functions are so
numerous, he delegates a portion of his power to a
number of deputies.
The Court of Session. — The Court of Session is
the supreme civil court of Scotland, — a court both
of law and of equity, and possesses discretionary
power. In fact, the business of this court com-
prises all that, in England, occupies the court-of-
chancery, — the vice-chancellor and the master-of-
the-rolls, — the courts of Queen's bench, and of com-
mon pleas and exchequer, — the court of admiralty
(with the exception of prize cases), — the court of
Doctor's commons, and the court of bankruptcy.
The Court of Session at present consists of 1 3 judges.
The Lord-president and 3 senior puisne judges form
what is termed the first division of the court; the
Lord-justice-clerk and 3 senior puisne judges form
the second division of the court; and these two
divisions are termed the Inner house. The remain-
ing 5 puisne judges officiate in what is called the
Outer house as Lords-ordinary, each sitting singly;
the last appointed of those judges being more
particularly occupied during the period of session in
what is termed the Bill-chamber, or in those pro-
ceedings, of the nature of injunction or stay of pro-
cess, which require the more summary interposition
of the court. The great majority of cases — all cases
indeed, with a few exceptions not worth mentioning
here — are brought in the first instance, and in their
earliest stage, before one or other of the Lords-
ordinary; the record is made up before him, and
under his superintendence, and the case prepared
for decision. It is then argued before him, and, in
general, decided by him. From his judgment there
lies an appeal to the Inner house, in one or other of
its divisions. The judgment of the division is final,
subject only to appeal to the House of Lords. There
is no appeal from one division to the other, nor from
one division to the whole court. But either division
may require the opinion of the other judges; in
which case, judgment is given according to the
opinion of the majority of the whole court.
The party who conies into court as plaintiff has it
in his power to select, not only the Lord-ordinary
before whom the cause shall in the first instance
proceed, but also the division by which the judg-
ment of the Lord-ordinary, if appealed from, shall
be reviewed. The two divisions of the court, it may
be proper to observe, are thus in all respects of
equal and co-ordinate jurisdiction. The same may
be said of the Lords-ordinary, with the exception of
a few cases reserved for the exclusive determination
of the Inner house; each Lord-ordinary having in
himself, for the decision of the cases before him, the
full jurisdiction of the court of session, and his
judgment, if not brought under review of the Inner
house, becoming the judgment of the court, not sub-
ject to appeal even to the House of Lords, which is
only permitted when judgment has been given by
the court of session in one of its inner chambers.
The court thus constituted has, in virtue either of
original or appellate jurisdiction, cognizance of all
civil causes and matters, with the exception of those
only which are reserved for the small debt courts,
and of the revenue cases which are reserved for ex-
chequer. It would be unnecessary, perhaps, to enter
more minutely into the limits of its jurisdiction; but
it may be proper to mention that the jurisdiction is
exclusive as regards all questions of real property,
and as to all other questions is subject only to this
limitation, that no case under £25 value can be
brought before it originally. Recent statutes, by
abolishing the courts of admiralty and the con-
sistory courts, have thrown into the court of session
the whole business which came before those courts
respectively. But besides this, though the court of
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exchequer still remains as a separate jurisdiction,
its judicial business is now discharged by two judges
of the court of session, sitting as barons of ex-
chequer.
A far more important duty, and one of great
labour and responsibility, devolves upon the Lord-
president, as Lord-justice-general, and the Lord-
justice-clerk, and 5 puisne judges of the court of
session under a separate commission, by which
there is conferred upon them supreme criminal
jurisdiction. The court of justiciary sits as occasion
requires, in Edinburgh, for despatch of business,
embracing there the criminal business of the three
Lothians, with such cases as, from their importance
or other reason, are brought to Edinburgh for trial.
In each year, during the vacations of the court of
session, there are three spring-circuits and three
autumn-circuits, with an additional winter circuit
for Glasgow. The business of the court of ex-
chequer, and, during vacation, the business of the
Bill-chamber department of the court of session,
which require constant attendance, are discharged
in rotation by those judges of the court of session
who are not included in the commission of the court
of justiciary. In enumerating the whole business
thus devolving on the supreme judges of Scotland,
the business of the Teind court (embracing all
questions as to the modification of stipends to the
clergy, and the respective liabilities of the parties
subject to the payment of stipend) must not be over-
looked, nor the still more important duty of presid-
ing in the trial of civil cases by jury, where under
recent statutes that course of procedure is re-
sorted to.
The Law Faculties. — The faculty of advocates
consists of between 400 and 500 barristers, who
have the privilege of pleading before the supreme
courts. Their affairs are presided over by a dean,
and managed by a council, a treasurer, and a clerk;
and are subject to the authority of the court of
session. Every candidate for membership is ex-
amined on the Soman and the Scottish law, and
must pay £100 toward the common fund, and £100
toward the Advocates' library. Members of the
faculty alone are eligible to the judgeships of the
court of session, the sheriffships of the Scottish
counties, and several important offices and dignities
connected with the government. The faculty, till
about the commencement of the present century,
was exclusive and aristocratic, requiring the ad-
ventitious qualifications of rank and noted ancestry,
in addition to those which were strictly personal ;
but, though now more popular in constitution, and
looking only to the talents and the scholarship of
its members, it is probably the most influential body
of the metropolis, and everywhere commands re-
spect. A clerk, appointed by an advocate, is en-
titled, after paying fees and being found qualified,
to act as an attorney in the supreme courts, and is
called an advocate's first clerk.
The faculty of writers to the signet includes from
600 to 700 individuals, who are entitled to act in
the supreme courts, and have the sole right of mak-
ing documents valid by the signet or seal of her
majesty. They were originally and literally clerks
in the secretary of state's office. Their business
was to record and issue writs passing the signet,
on which various proceedings took place. They
still receive commissions from the keeper of the
signet; but, though never erected into a corpora-
tion, it has been held that they have acquired the
rights and privileges of one by usage. Their ad-
vantages over the notaries and lawyers' clerks arose
from their keeping together as a body. For a long
period after advocates' clerks were recognised as a
sort of solicitors, writers to the signet not only ex-
cluded themselves, but were excluded by the court,
from acting as agents. Tempted, however, by the
growing emoluments of law-agency, and aided by
qualifications superior, it is believed, to most of the
advocates' clerks, their interferences, originally sur-
reptitious, were at length acknowledged by the
court, and their commission as writers to the signet
is now held to authorize their acting also in the
capacity of solicitors before all our highest courts.
Their peculiar privileges as writers to the signet are
of a trifling nature ; and their peculiar duties may
also be understood in the course of two months.
Their library, however, is valuable, and their cor-
poration funds are extensive. Their supporting a
lecturer on conveyancing, and a widow's scheme,
add to their consequence.- — The solicitors before the
supreme courts of Scotland are, as agents, on a foot-
ing, in every respect, with writers to the signet.
The only distinction is, that the latter had a con-
nection with the court, as clerks to the signet, be-
fore they had any connection with it as agents.
Miscellaneous Courts.- — The high court of admi-
ralty consisted, after the Union, of a judge appointed
by the Lord-vice-admiral of Scotland, and function-
aries of inferior jurisdiction appointed by the judges;
and, in civil causes, it was subject to review by the
court of session. The magistrates of Edinburgh
also possessed an admiralty jurisdiction over the
county of the city, and to the midwaters of the frith
of Forth, limited on the west by a line drawn from
Wardie brow to the Mickrie stone; and on the east
by a line drawn from the extremity of the Pentland
hills to the middle of the frith east of Inchkeith. —
The Commissary court, or head consistorial court of
Scotland, was, as to its business, nearly all merged
in the court of session in 1830. A power of con-
firming the testaments of persons having property
in Scotland who died abroad, remained with the
officers of the defunct court, to devolve at their
death to the sheriff of Edinburghshire. — Two
deputies perform some unimportant or compar-
atively trivial duties of the Lyon-court, or, more
strictly, of the sinecure office of Lyon-king-at-arms.
— The sheriff-courts of the county are held in Edin-
burgh; but are not different from those of other
counties. — The convention of royal burghs, a court
constituted in the reign of James III., meets an-
nually in Edinburgh, and is presided over by the
Lord-provost of the city. It consists only of dele-
gates chosen year by year from the individual royal
burghs, yet has all the characters of a corporation,
with qualities and privileges which have been con-
ferred by statute. It discusses and determines
questions of trade in which the interests of the
burghs may be concerned; and before dissolving
itself at the end of its sittings, it appoints a com-
mittee who wield its powers till the election of its
successor. It has no funds, yet possesses a statu-
tory power to assess the burghs annually for the
supplies of the current year.
Ecclesiastical Courts, — The general assembly of the
Church of Scotland holds a full meeting annually in
May. A presbytery of fewer than 13 parishes,
delegates to it 2 ministers and 1 elder; a presbytery
of fewer than 19, but more than 12, delegates 3
ministers and 1 elder; a presbytery of fewer than
25, but more than 18, delegates 4 ministers and 2
elders; a presbytery of fewer than 31, but more
than 24, delegates 5 ministers and 2 elders; and a
presbytery of more than 30, delegates 6 ministers
and 3 elders. Each royal burgh sends one member;
Edinburgh sends two; and each university sends
one. The Assembly has an ecclesiastical president
or moderator, elected by the votes of its members.
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561
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and a, civil president, or overseer, the representative
of her Majesty, or, as he is called, the Lord-high-
commissiuuer, appointed by the Crown. The former
is the real president, acting very much as if the
civil president did not exist. A commission of the
assembly, consisting of a large portion of its mem-
bers, are invested with all its ecclesiastical powers
to despatch business which cannot be overtaken
during the 10 days of its full session, and to watch
over the interests of the church throughout the
country ; and this body holds several meetings in
the course of the year. — The synod of Lothian and
Tweeddale meets at Edinburgh on the first Tuesday
of May and November ; and the presbytery of
Edinburgh, on the last Wednesday of every month
except May.
The general assembly of the Free church of
Scotland — which has a constitution exactly similar
to that of the Established church, but without any
of the civil elements — also holds a full meeting in
Edinburgh annually in May; and a commission
of it, exactly similar to the other's commission,
meets here also in August, November, and March.
The Free church's synod of Lothian and Tweeddale,
and its presbytery of Edinburgh, likewise hold
their meetings here. — The synod of the United
Presbyterian church holds its meetings generally in
Edinburgh, but occasionally in Glasgow. The
Edinburgh presbj'tery of that body meets monthly
in Edinburgh. — The synod of the Reformed Pres-
byterian church, and the synod of the United
Original Seceders share their favours between
Edinburgh and Glasgow. — The annual meetings of
the Congregational Union of Scotland, as also meet-
ings of other congregational bodies, have not the
character of courts, and regard Edinburgh as only
one of several great centres of influence. — Edinburgh
is the seat of a bishop of the Scottish Episcopal
church. It is the residence also of a Roman Catho-
lic bishop.
Municipal Affairs.
The Town- Council. — The city of Edinburgh is
governed by a Lord-provost, magistrates, and
council, who are elected according to the provisions
of a special act passed in 1856. The Lord-provost
is styled right honourable, is ex officio high-sheriff of
the royalty, and has precedence of all official persons
within his jurisdiction. The magistracy consists
of a lord-provost, a dean-of-guild, a treasurer, and
six bailies, each of whom is ex officio a member of
the council. The number of councillors is 39. For
the purposes of the election the city is divided into
wards or districts. The number of municipal elec-
tors in 1862 was 8.833. One-third part of the coun-
cillors go out of office every year, but are eligible
for re-election. The provost, bailies, treasurer, and
other office-bearers, are elected by the councillors.
The provost's term of office is three years, and he
is eligible for immediate re-election. The other
office-bearers go out at the expiration of one year,
and cannot be re-elected until each shall have been
out of his particular office one year; but this does
not prevent their being kept in the council from
year to year by their being elected to fill the differ-
ent offices in succession.
Previous to the burgh reform act, the corporation
was of a close character, though not altogether with-
out an admixture of popular representation. The
return made to the house of commons in 1793, de-
scribing the constitution as settled by the authority
of a decreet-arbitral of King James VI., 1583, a
deereet-arbitral of Lord Islay, 1729-30, and two acts
of council, 1658 and 1673, was as follows: — "Coun-
cil consists of 17 merchants, 6 deacons, and 2 trades'
councillors, in all 25. These shorten tin: leets for
14 deacons, and elect 6 of them council deacons.
They may continue two years. The 14 deacons are
elected as follows: — Each corporation or trade vote
a list, or leet of six, which they give in to the coun-
cil, who return three of the six for the election of a
deacon, who is chosen by a majority of the votes of
the members of the respective corporations. The
25 members of council elect three merchants' and
two trades' councillors. The old and new council,
consisting of 30, leet for the office-bearers, who are
elected by them and the eight deacons not of the
council, making in all 38. Thereafter the council
consists, as formerly, of 25 ; but the eight extra
deacons have a vote in every case exceeding the
value of £1 13s. 4d. The magistrates consist of a
lord-provost, dean-of-guild, and treasurer, each of
whom may be re-elected for one year more, and
four bailies, who cannot be re-elected into the same
office the succeeding year; and they must be out of
council one year before they can be put in the leet
for bailies; each of these office-bearers remains in
council one year, ex officio, as councillors. A bailie,
though he cannot be re-elected until he be out of
council at least for one year, yet the sett does not
prevent his being kept in council a considerable
time, by being elected into other offices, such as
treasurer, dean-of-guild, and provost, one after the
other."
The Magistrates' Jurisdiction. — The magistrates,
prior to the act of 1856, had ordinary burgh jurisdic-
tion, civil and criminal, over only the ancient royalty
and the extended royalty; but now they have it
over all the parliamentary burgh. This is defined
by a line drawn from a point on the Leith and
Queensferry road, 400 yards west of the Inverleith
road at Goldenacre, straight to the north-western
corner of John Watson's hospital ; thence straight
to the second stone bridge on the Union canal; thence
straight to the Jordan or Powburn at the enclosure
of the Morningside lunatic asylum ; thence down
that burn to a point on it 150 yards below the tran-
sit of the Carlisle road ; thence straight to the sum-
mit of Arthur's seat; thence straight to the influx of
a burn at the west side of Lochend-locli ; thence
straight to the junction of Pilrig-street and Leith-
walk ; thence along Pilrig-street and the Bonning-
ton-road to the Leith and Queensferry-road ; thence
along that road to the point first described. They
have also, within these bounds, exclusive jurisdic-
tion as to weights and measures, and co-ordinate
jurisdiction with the sheriff as to offences against the
public houses act. They likewise wield the author-
ity formerly possessed by the police commissioners,
and form committees to carry out police acts. They
are also commissioners of supply for the city, and
likewise members of the commission of the peace for
the county of the city ; which extends beyond the
parliamentary burgh toward the frith of Forth.
The lord-provost too is lord-lieutenant of the county
of the city; and the lord provost, the junior bailie,
and the dean of guild, are members of the city
of Edinburgh paving board. The town-council
also control the water company, govern Heriot's
hospital and Trinity hospital, are patrons of the
High School and of thirteen of the city churches,
and appoint one of the assessors and four of the
curators of the Edinburgh university. The chief
committees of the council are the lord provost's,
including watching and coal weighing; markets, in-
cluding slaughter-houses; cleaning and lighting, in-
cluding workshops; streets and buildings, including
drainage, public parks, and bleaching-greens; plans
and work, including fire-engines and police house
department; police appeals; education; law; the
2n
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562
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hospitals ; and the treasuries. Ordinary courts for
the city, in all the departments of the burgh juris-
diction, are held daily; a sequestration court for the
city is held every Friday ; and a ten rnevk court and
a small debt court for the city and county of the
city are held every Monday. The ten merk court
determines claims of servants' wages to any amount,
and claims of other kinds for sums not exceeding lis.
lid., and is held by the bailies. The small debt court
is held by the justices of peace. Much power and
patronage formerly possessed by the town-council
was taken from them by the University act of 1858
and the annuity tax abolition act of 1860.
The City Finances. — The revenues of the city are
now derived principally from landed property, feu-
duties, and market-dues ; but were formerly derived
also from the shore-dues of Leith, from imposts on
wines and malt liquors, from the annuity tax for
ministers' stipends, and from the seat-rents of the
city churches. The amount of it in 1788 was about
£10,000; in 1841-2, £19,884 6s. 9d.; and in 1853-4,
£33,247 2s. 6|d. The value of the whole heritable
and moveable property of the cityin 1833, — exclusive
of the Leith dues, the church-patronage, and the
dead-worth of the High-school, the council-chambers,
and the court-rooms — was £271,657. But notwith-
standing this apparent opulence, the corporation,
after having long lain under heavy embarrassment,
was in 1833 declared insolvent.
There is not sufficient evidence that the dis-
astrous state of the city affairs was caused by actual
embezzlement or fraudulent malversation. Exag-
gerated expectations of the continued and indefinite
increase of the city in prosperity and size may have
led the managers of the corporation into an increase
of expense far disproportioned to the really consider-
able growth of the revenue. Offices were multi-
plied, and salaries raised; a spirit of litigation pre-
vailed ; great profusion took place in the expenses
of civic parade and entertainments; and extravagant
sums were expended on public buildings and other
public works, as ill-adapted in general to their ob-
ject of embellishing the city as they invariably
were disproportioned to its finances. The expense
of law-proceedings for the city, for the period from
1819 to 1832 inclusive, was £24,162; and for the
same period the expenses connected with passing
local acts of parliament amounted to £12,156. For
the year 1819 the cost of city-entertainments was
£782. In 1820, it was £1,066; and the election
dinner of the magistrates that year cost £533. St.
George's church was built on a plan estimated at
£18,000, but cost. £33,000. The new High school
was erected at a cost of about £30,000, of which
£22,973 was defrayed by the city. A separate ac-
count, under the head of petty disbursements, was
kept, which averaged for the last five years of the
old regime about £1,200 per annum. The expense
of keeping up the causeways, repairs of property,
advances for college and churches, &c, was merely
stated as casual payments; and whenever the ex-
penditure exceeded the revenue, reference was made
to a large sum of casual payments which, it was
stated, would not likely occur again, although they
always did occur. Some debts also, which had
originated in transactions with the Crown, were of
long standing; and a debt to government of no less
than £228,374, for the works of Leith docks, had
been recently. contracted. . In 1723, the total debt
was £78,164; and iml833, exclusive of the sum for
the Leith docks, it was £407,181.
An act of parliament legalising a settlement was
obtained in July 1838. "By this act the town-
council are relieved of their responsibilities and of
all cmcern with the Leith docks. The manage-
ment of these was placed under commissioners.
Government agreed to postpone the interest on the
debt due; an annual sum of £2,000 was secured to
the city clergy, in lieu of the merk per ton, which
was abolished; and £2,500 for the payment of the
necessary expenses of the University and High-
school. Another sum of £3,180, was appropriated
to the city creditors, making in all £7,680 of annual
payment to the city of Edinburgh out of the reven-
ues of the Leith docks and harbour. The remain-
ing revenue was to be appropriated, under the
direction of the commissioners, to the improvement
of the harbour, and the residue, if any, to be paid
towards the ultimate extinction of the government
debt. The affairs of the city of Edinburgh and those
of Leith were also entirely separated. The arrange-
ment with the creditors was, that for every hundred
pounds of debt they were to receive a bond bearing
three pounds of perpetual annuity — that these bonds
were to be transferable, and the debt redeemable only
by the payment of the full sum, or by purchasing the
bonds at their market value. The revenues and the
properties belonging to the city were divided into
two classes. The first class contains all the alien-
able revenues, which are conveyed in security to
the creditors for the payment of their annuities.
The gross amount of this sum was calculated at the
time to amount to £17,554, including an annuity oi
£3,180, payable from the harbour of Leith; and
after deducting £1,600 as the expense of manage-
ment, the net produce was taken at £15,954. The
claim of the creditors of three per cent, on the
whole amount of their debts amounted to £12,000
secured over the above sum. The second class con-
tains the inalienable revenues, which are specially
secured to the city, and declared by the act not to
be liable, either directly or indirectly, for any debts
or obligations contracted by the city prior to the
1st of January 1833, when it was declared to be
bankrupt. The gross amount of this sum is £5,030 ;
the net produce is £4,294." The income since then
has grown apace ; and in the year 1861-2, it amount-
ed, exclusive of police revenue, to £40,729.
Police Establishment. — After the battle of Flodden,
the citizens began voluntarily to perform the duty
of what was called the watching and warding of the
city; and did it in rotations of four. In 1648 a
paid guard of 60 men was appointed to do all the
duty, under the command of a captain and two
lieutenants ; but it proved distasteful to the in-
habitants, and soon gave way to the resumption of
the voluntary system. About 1689, another paid
body of much greater permanency, and 126 strong,
was raised under authority of an act of parliament;
they were called the town-guard, and had their
rendezvous in the lower portion of the old tolbooth ;
and they perambulated the streets at night, clothed
in old military costume, with long blue coats and
cocked hats, and carrying each a huge Lochaber
axe. There was, in addition to these, a militia
regiment, called the trained bands, comprising 16
companies of 100 men each, with the Lord-provost
as colonel at its head ; but this was called out only
on great occasions, such as for some state pageant,
or on the anniversary of the King's birth-day. .
A better system was inaugurated in 1805, im-
proved in 1812 and 1822, and matured in 1848.
The territory comprehended by it included all the
parliamentary burgh, together with a tract to the
north ; but the latter was transferred by the-muni-
cipal extension act of 1856, to the police district of
Leith. The administration was vested in commis-
sioners, some ex offieiis, some elected by certain public
bodies, most elected by rate-payers ; and was trans-
ferred, by the municipal extension aet, to the magis-
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563
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trates and town-council. The establishment com-
prised, in 1861, a superintendent, a first-lieutenant,
4 other lieutenants, a surgeon, an inspector of light-
ing and cleaning, 2 inspectors of nuisances, a sales-
man of manure, a superintendent of streets and
buildings, an inspector of markets, a master of fire-
engines, a billet-master, and a force of 339 men.
The superintendent's salary was £400. The assess-
ment is levied from bouses and shops according to
the rental, and varies in rate to suit the exigencies
of expenditure. In the year 1851-2 it amounted to
£32,123, and was levied at the rate of Is. 5d. per £1
on rents at and above £10, and 8d. on rents below
£10; and in 1861-2, it amounted to £45,621, but
then included the amount of imposts in lieu of the
annuity tax, as enacted in the previous year.
Two series of statistics throw light on the action
of the police force, and on the state of public crime
and immorality. The first series exhibits the crimes
and misdemeanours reported at the police-office
during the 3£ years from the commencement of 1842
to the 30th June 1845. The total number of per-
sons apprehended during each year ranged from
1 0,000 to 1 2,000. The petty thefts gave an average,
in round numbers, of folly 4,000 per annum ; while,
under the heads, " assaults and breaches of the
pence," "beggars and vagrants," the average number
was 5,000. The crimes of a more serious character,
such as housebreakings, robberies, &c, were in 1842,
531; in 1843, 415; in 1844, 378; and for the first
half of 1845, 183. In regard to housebreakings, the
number of cases reported for the three years, was
271, 265, and 222 respectively, and for the half-year
101. A new system of night watching was attend-
ed with success. In 1842, about 5 out of every 7
cases reported were committed during night; in
1844, the proportion was reduced to 4 out of 7 ; and
for the first half of 1845, not only were the cases of
housebreaking much less frequent, but those com-
mitted during day exceeded those during night by
55 to 46. the latter number being little more than
half as many as were committed by night in the
corresponding period of any of the three previous
years. The number of drunken cases brought be-
fore the police court in 1842, was 4,225; in 1843,
5,400; in 1844, 4,900.— The second series of statis-
tics gives the totals of apprehensions, punishments,
and cases of drunkenness in the years 1856-60.
The number of persons brought before the judges of
police in 1856 was 9,260, or 4,716 males and 4,544
females; in 1857, S,5o2, or 4,594 males and 3,958
females; in 1858, 8,650, or 4,635 males and 4,015
females; in 1859, 10,652, or 5,604 males and 5,048
females; in 1860, 9,501, or 4,979 males and 4,522
females. The number punished was 5,748 in 1856;
5,350 in 1857; 5,651 in 1858; 7,519 in 1859.; 6,708
in 1S60. The numbers admonished was 1,659 in
1856; 1,563 in 1857; 1,490 in 185S; 1,670 in 1859;
1,393 in 1860. The number who were drunk when
apprehended for crimes and offences, or who were
found drunk in the streets and kept by the police
till they became sober, was 7,736 in 1856; 7,785 in
1857; 8,308 in 1858; 8,753 in 1859; 7,016 in 1860.
The number of drunk persons taken in charge on
Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays, was 3,365 in
1856 ; 3",530 in 1857; 3,742 in 185'S; 4,189 in 1859;
3,291 in 1860. The per centage of drunk persons
in the apprehensions for crimes or offences was 39 in
1856; 43 in 1S57; 52 in 185S; 46 in 1859; 44 in 1860.
The Trades' Corporations. — The incorporated
trades, formerly represented in the town-council,
are: — 1. Waulkers; constituted by seal of cause,
20th August, 1500. 2. Surgeons; seal of cause, 1st
July, 1505; crown charters, 13th October, 1506,
11th May, 1567, 6th June, 1613; statutes, 1641,
16711; crown-charter, 28th February, 1694; statute,
1695. 3. Skinners ; seals of cause, 1586, 1630. 4.
Furriers; act of council, 7tli September, 159.1, .Olli
April, 1665. 5. Goldsmiths; seal of cause, 20ib
August, 1581; crown-charters, 3d January, 1586,
14th December, 1687. 6. Hammermen; seal of
cause, 2d May, 1483. 7. Wrights; act of council,
15th October, 1475. 8. Masons; actof council, loth
October, 1475. 9. Tailors; seals of cause, 26th
August, 1500, 20th October, 1531, 11th November,
1584; royal charters, 18th November, 1531, 4th
June, 1594. 10. Baxters; before 1522. 11. Flesh-
ers; seal of cause, 11th April, 1488. 12. Cordiners;
seals of cause, 28th July, 1449, 26th November,
1479, 1st February, 1586; crown-charter, 6th
March, 1598. 13. Websters; seals of cause, 31s'
January, 1475, 27th February, 1520. 14. Bonnet
makers; seal of cause, 31st March, 1530; ,
1684. The corporation of candlemakers was con-
stituted by charter from the magistrates, 5th Sep-
tember, 1517; confirmed by royal charter, 4th May,
1597; and ratified by act of parliament, 17th Jul}',
1695, which conferred the usual privileges of incor-
porated trades. The corporation of barbers, origi-
nally united with the surgeons, had a separate con-
stitution by seal of cause, granted by the town-
council in 1722. These two corporations, however,
were not represented in the convenery or the town-
council. All the trades chose their own deacons.
The Merchants' Company. — The Merchants com-
pany is intimately connected with the guildry, and
has the virtual patronage of three public charities.
The company was established by roj'al charter,
dated 19th October, 1681, which erected "the then
haill present merchants, burgesses, and gild brethren
of the burgh of Edinburgh, who were importers or
sellers of cloths, stuffs, or other merchandize, for
the apparel or wear of the bodies of men or women,
for themselves and successors in their said trade in
all time comeing, in a society or company, to be
designed the Company of Merchants of the city of
Edinburgh," which was ratified by act of parlia-
ment, 1693. A subsequent charter, and two suc-
cessive acts of parliament, the last dated 28th May,
1827, have regulated the dues of entry, and author-
ized the company to admit all persons " being
merchants, burgesses, and guild brethren, or entitled
to be chosen merchant-councillors or magistrates of
the city of Edinburgh." The rate of entry-money,
as regulated by the last statute, is £63. The com-
pany's stock, at September, 1834, was £23,776.
The income from interest of money, rents of real
property, and entry money, &c, amounts to about
£1,100 per annum, and is expended chiefly in sup-
porting widows and decayed members.
Separate Jurisdictions. — Three portions of the city,
situated beyond its old royalties, but lying contigu-
ous to its old streets, and municipally incorporated
with it by the municipal extension act of 1856, had
previously separate jurisdictions. These are Ca-
nongate, Portsburgh, and Calton. — Canongate was
one of the most ancient burghs of regality in Scot-
land, and had charters from David I., Robert I., and
Robert III. The abbots of Holyrood had the
superiority of the burgh, and are stated to have
appointed as its earliest sett two bailies, a treasurer,
and council, with right to make burgesses and
craftsmen, and to hold courts civil and criminal,
with privilege and liberty of chapel and chancellary,
by issuing briefs, and serving the same before such
courts. These powers and privileges, with certain
feu-duties and other property, they afterwards con-
veyed to the community, reserving nothing but the
bare superiority of the burgh. The abbots continued
superiors till the Reformation. Robert Stewavt,
EDINBURGH.
564
EDINBURGH.
commendator of Holyrood, exchanged the abbacy
for the temporality of the bishopric of Orkney, with
Adam, bishop of Orkney. The superiority passed
successively into the hands of Sir Lewis Belleuden
of Broughton, and others, and was at last acquired
by the city of Edinburgh about the year 1630. The
only property belonging to the burgh consisted of
the superiority of certain properties within the
burgh, the right to levy petty customs, market-dues,
and causeway mail, and an annual allowance from
the police-establishment of Edinburgh, " in lieu and
place of l-4th part of the monies arising from the
sale of the dung or fuilzie of the streets of Canongate
and Pleasance," which had previously belonged to
the burgh. The burgh had no debt; and the magis-
trates had not for a number of years exercised their
burghal jurisdiction in criminal matters. They
held a weekly court for civil causes, in which they
disposed of the same classes of questions that are
competent to sheriffs and magistrates of royal
burghs. They also held weekly a small debt court,
in which causes not exceeding £5 sterling were
tried viva voce. The magistrates acted also as jus-
tices of the peace within the territory of the burgh,
in all matters falling under the cognizance of jus-
tices ; and were assisted by an assessor, who was a
member of the faculty of advocates, and was ap-
pointed by the town-council of Edinburgh as supe-
riors of the Canongate. The jurisdiction extended
over the whole territory of the burgh, including
Canongate-proper, the Abbey of Holyrood-house,
Pleasance, North Leith, and Coal-hill. None but
burgesses or freemen of the burgh were entitled to
carry on trade or manufactures within the bounds;
and in those callings which fell within the ex-
clusive privileges of the incorporated crafts, it was
necessary, besides the qualification of burgess, to be
an entered member of the particular craft. The
fee for admission as burgess was, to a stranger, £3
3s.; but to the children of a burgess only £1 lis.
6d. The number of burgesses could not be exactly
ascertained; but it had been estimated to amount
to about 400. There are eight incorporated crafts,
all united under one convener}', and possessed of
funds, which are appropriated to the support of poor
members and the widows of deceased members.
These are hammermen, tailors, wrights, bakers,
shoemakers, weavers, fieshers, and barbers.
The Abbey sanctuary, which was noticed in the
conclusion of our section on " Holyrood," has a
court of its own, of a peculiar nature and jurisdic-
tion. The sanctuary comprehends all the abbey
yard, and all the Queen's park. In the times of
Romanism, it gave protection from every kind and
cause of legal prosecution ; and after the Reforma-
tion, it continued to be regarded as an asylum for
debtors, and perhaps petty offenders; and it still
retains its privilege of exemption from personal ar-
rest for civil debts. This privilege has been recog-
nised by various decisions of the supreme court,
and by an act of the Scottish parliament in 1696,
and subsequently by the various acts of the impe-
rial parliament called the bankrupt acts. The bailie
of Holyrood is appointed by commission from the
Duke of Hamilton, as hereditary keeper of the
palace, and holds his office during pleasure. His
commission gives him power to appoint a substi-
tute, and to name fiscals, clerks, and other officers
of court. The jurisdiction of the bailie is that of
regality; and it was not affected by the act abol-
ishing heritable jurisdictions, being a royal resi-
dence and a regality independent of a superior.
The jurisdiction is both criminal and civil; and,
from the diet-books of court, the bailie seems to
have exercised it at different times to a very consi-
derable extent. It is in some respects privative.
The bailie alone can grant warrants against persons
within his jurisdiction, and his concurrence is ne-
cessary to the civil warrant of other judges.
The burgh-of-barony of Portsburgh comprehend-
ed two districts, — Easter and Wester Portsburgh,
which are discontiguous. Easter Portsburgh lies
wholly to the east of Bristo-street, and has been
described as comprehending the east side of Bristo-
street from Bristo-port southward, Potter-row, Lo-
thian and South College-streets, Drummond-street
to opposite to Adam-street, and Nicolson-street to
nearly the entry to the York hotel on the west, and
to the Surgeon's hall on the east. Wester Ports-
burgh lies wholly to the west of Wharton-lane and
the Vennel, and has been described as comprehend-
ing the main street of Wester Portsburgh on both
sides, from the old corn-market and foot of the Ven-
nel to Main-point; the whole of Laurieston, both
sides, from Wharton-lane to Lochrin, including
Portland -place, Cowfeeder-row, on the west, and to
Burntsfield-links on the east, including Home and
Leven streets. There lies interjected between the
two the whole territory along the southern boun-
dary of Heriot's work and the old city-wall, com-
prehending the west side of Bristo-street, Park-
place, Teviot-row, the Meadow-walk, the grounds
of Watson's hospital, &c. This burgh had no cor-
poration property, revenue, or debts. A baron-
bailie and two resident bailies were annually ap-
pointed, and there were a clerk and a procurator
fiscal. These were all officers appointed by the city
of Edinburgh in its character of baron and superior;
and any expense connected with their establish-
ment was defrayed by the city. There had been no
jurisdiction exercised of late years within the Ports-
burghs, either by the baron or resident bailies.
Formerly courts were occasionally held for recovery
of debts under 40s., and for deciding summary com-
plaints for thefts, breaches of the peace, &c. B t
for a good number of years the former had been
taken to the small debt courts of the county, and
the latter to the police court. There were no bur-
gesses and guild-brethren in Portsburgh; but there
were eight incorporated trades deriving their rights
from John Touris of Inverleith.
The lands of Calton formed part of the barony of
Restalrig, belonging to Lord Balmerino. The ma-
gistrates and council of Edinburgh having bought
them from Lord Balmerino, obtained, in 1725, a
charter from the Crown, disjoining them from the
barony and burgh-of-barony of Restalrig, and an-
nexing them to the city of Edinburgh. This charter,
however, does not erect the lands into a burgh-of-
barony. The town-council appointed each year one
of their number to be bailie of Canongate and Cal-
ton; but in the latter no judicial functions were
exercised by him, nor does it appear that he had
right to exercise any jurisdiction. The bailiary of
Calton extended from the brewery a little to the
eastward of the Shotts foundry at the north back of
Canongate, westward along the street so called, in-
cluding all the houses next the Calton-hill, and turn-
ing round and including the High Calton, passing
through the archway of the Regent-bridge along
Calton- street, and down the street leading to Words-
worth's stables, including all the buildings on the
side of that street next the hill, and down to the
Greenside well at the north-eastern extremity of the
city's property of Calton-hill ; whence the boundary
crossed over the hill by the wall of the Regent-ter-
race garden and the east end of the High school to
the brewery above-mentioned, all the intermediate
property being included. As observed, however, in
a report by the town-council, "it consisted of sev-
EDINBURGH.
5G5
EDINBURGH.
eral fragments, the limits of which, after the erec-
tion of the Regent-bridge and the extension of the
royalty in that quarter, were extremely difficult to
ascertain." The only corporation connected with that
of tho Calton was that of the incorporated trades.
Social Affairs.
The Classes of Society. — "A comparison of the
population returns of Edinburgh with those of five
other of the large towns of the kingdom," saya
Black's Guide through Edinburgh, "will enable
the reader to form some idea of the proportions
which the professional and other liberally educated
classes bear to the other orders of society. The
returns for 1831 admitting of a more accurate
classification than those of 1841, we adopt the
former, as being more convenient for our present
purpose.
Names of Towns and their
Suburbs.
Total
popula-
tion.
l Mules Twenty Years of Age.
Male
Ser-
vants.
Employed in
Manufactures,
or in making
Manufacturing
Machinery.
Employed
in Retail or
Handicraft
Trades.
Capitalists,
Bankers, Pro-
fessional, and
other liberally
educated Men.
Labourers
Employed in
Labour not
Agricul-
tural.
Other
Mules
(except
Servants.)
Female
Ser-
vants.
Edinburgh & Leith,
Glasgow,
Liverpool & Toxteth Park,
Manchester & Salford,
Bristol & Barton-Regis,
Birmingham,
161,909
202,426
1S9.242
182,812
103.8S6
146,986
792
19,913
359
15,342
415
5,028
19,764
18,832
21,208
17,931
11.270
19,469
7,463
2,723
5,201
2,821
2,654
2,3S8
4-448
574
16,095
7,629
7,312
5,292
2,296
4,012
1,214
1,695
1,867
1,371
1,422
946
363
398
814
966
12,429
8,006
9,033
3,985
5,702
5,233
This table, compiled from parliamentary docu-
ments, not only demonstrates the large proportion
borne by the educated ranks to the general mass of
the population, but from the number of male and
female domestic servants it is also obvious, that the
average number of families in comfortable circum-
stances must exceed that of any of the other large
towns of the empire. It must not, however, be con-
cluded, that there are many of the inhabitants of
Edinburgh in circumstances of great opulence. In
this respect it probably cannot vie with the other
towns in the table; but competence is as generally
possessed, and comfort as widely diffused, as in any
other community of like magnitude."
Edinburgh is also, in the truly national sense of
ihe word, metropolitical. "Nothing can be more
erroneous," remarks Mr. Lorimer, in his recent
brochure on the Universities of Scotland, " than to
liken Edinburgh to such places as Bath or Chelten-
ham or any of the mere pleasure-towns of England.
Edinburgh, after her quiet fashion, is a busy place
enough, and, London excepted, unquestionably ful-
fils the idea of a capital more than any other city in
this country. She has nothing of that air of a pro-
consular residence, which, while it confers on Dub-
lin a certain external splendour, unfortunately
renders her more like to what we imagine Calcutta
or Montreal than to the capital of any European
country, however small. There is no foreign ruling
class in Edinburgh; what she has is Scotch, and
what Scotland has is hers. The true centre of
Scottish life, from her, as from the heart of the land,
the life-blood of Scotland issues forth, and to her it
returns freely again. Every Scotchman finds in
her a common centre for his sympathies. The in-
habitants of Glasgow, Aberdeen, Dundee, Perth,
and the like, have no bond of union other than as
the inhabitants of a common country; but every
man of them feels that he has a tie to Edinburgh.
It is to her that he looks for his news, his praise,
his influence, his justice, and his learning. And
there is always a large body of sojourners within
her walls, who compose a fluctuating, but as regards
both wealth and position, by no means an unimport-
ant part of her population. These persons, we
believe, are attracted hither for the most part by
one or other of the following causes, — the beauty of
the place, the excellence and cheapness of the ele-
mentary education which they can here procure for
their families, and the prospect which Edinburgh
society holds out of their being able to gratify those
refined and cultivated tastes which they may have
elsewhere formed."
The city has also a calm steady character, in
keeping with the predominance of legal and scho-
lastic pursuits from which it derives its chief main-
tenance, and totally contrasted to the fluctuations,
excitements, and mercantile convulsions which pro-
duce so much misery in manufacturing towns. On
the other hand, as may be inferred from some of our
statements on its sanatory condition, its poorer
classes are excessively poor, not from any peculiar
bad tendency in themselves, nor merely from the
bad influence of their unhealthy domiciles, but
chiefly from the want of scope for industry and ol
healthy stimulus to exertion. There is likewise a
disproportion of females over males much greater
than in almost any other town in the empire. This
in the city and suburbs, exclusive of Leith, in 18.31,
out of a population of 136,301, was no less than
15,556; andin 1861, out of a population of 168,121,
was 18,317. Two reasons have been assigned for
so curious a phenomenon ; one, the unusually large
proportion of female servants in the city, tending to
draw girls hither from the country; the other, the
paucity of general industrial occupation, forcing
young men to seek employment elsewhere, while
compelling their sisters to remain in their native
town.
Expenses of Living. — The rent of self-contained
houses range's from £40 to £150; and that of flats,
or single floors, ranges from £10 to £40. The num-
ber of male householders, in 1859-60, at a rent of
£10 and upwards, was 7,863; at from £6 to £10,
3.947 ; under £6, 10,248. The number who had no
profession, business, or known occupation, was
1.726. The direct local taxes are levied on four-
fifths of the actual rent. The following compara-
tive statement of other expenses in Edinburgh, in
the years 1790, 1821, and 1850, will enable readers
to compare this city both with itself and with other
places: —
EDINBURGH.
566
EDINBURGH.
1790.
Assessed taxes, rent £45, and 12 windows,
Beef, mutton, per lb., . Jv . .
Fowls, each,
Eggs, per dozen,
Butter, per lb.,
Bread, 4 lb. loaf,
Oatmeal, per boll,
Tea, black, per lb.,
Lump sugar, per lb., ....
Pepper, per lb.,
Salt, per bushel,
Soap, per stone, 16 lb., ....
Candles, per do.,
Port wine, per doz., ....
Rum, per gallon,
Brandy, per do.,
Aqua vitse, per do.,
Porter, per dozen,
Ale. per do.,
Coals, per cwt.,
Potatoes, per boll, ....
Superfine cloth per yard,
Making a suit of clothes, ....
Hats, each,
Top boots, per pair, ....
Boots, do.,
Shoes, do., ......
High school fees, per quarter, each branch,
College, per class,
Music, per 12 lessons, ....
Drawing, per do., .....
Apprentice fee to a writer to the signet,
Female servants' wages per annum,
Board and lodging for a single person per annum,
Horse hire, per day, ....
Post chaise, per mile, ....
Bed-room, per night, ....
Breakfast,
Proceedings brought before Court of Session,
Amusements. — Edinburgh has a strong passion
for almost every kind of both private and public
amusement. No place can exceed it in the constant,
rapid, giddy whirl of social intercourse. The gravity
of its literary influences goes all into gas with multi-
tudes, and takes the firm solid form with but com-
paratively few. The drama, however, is much less
in vogue than might be expected. Music, especially
in the form of grand harmonies, is more in repute,
and has of late years been enthusiastically pursued
in great concerts, oratorios, and operas. A rush is
made by multitudes to the Leith and Musselburgh
races. The attractions of the circus are extensively
acknowledged. All kinds of travelling celebrities
visit Edinburgh, and, with scarcely an exception, are
well patronized. Exhibitions of the fine arts bave
very numerous votaries. And athletic sports in the
open air, from the coarsest to the most refined, are
considerably practised and extensively admired.
The general tone of society, however, as estimated
by the principles of sound religion or of _ compre-
hensive policy, is not good, — far too light, too
dissipated, too free from healthful restraint, too for-
getful of the best interests of at once body, mind,
and social man.
There are numerous clubs and societies who
devote themselves to some particular amusement,
either for its own sake or for sake of its connexions.
The chief are the following,— the Edinburgh chess
club, instituted in 1822; the Edinburgh amateur
musical association; the Edinburgh harmonists'
society the Edinburgh St. Cecilia amateur orches-
tral society, instituted in 1848; the Edinburgh
amateur choral society, instituted in 1854; the
Edinburgh choral union, instituted in 18o8 ; the
Edinburgh solfeggio association, established in 1838;
the Edinburgh tonic sol-fa association, instituted
1821.
£3 18s. Od.
£10 15s. Od.
£2 3s. 9d.
2id. to 4d.
7d. to 8d.
5id. to 7d.
lUd. to Is.
2s. to 2s. 6d.
Is. 6d. to 2s.
3d. to 4d.
9d. to Is. 6d.
9d. to Is. la.
9d. to lOd.
Is. 4d. to Is. 6d.
lOd. to Is. 2d.
5id. to 6d.
9d.
5d.
12s. to 13s. 4d.
20s. to 21s. 4d.
8s. to 12s.
4s. to 5s. 6d.
7s. to 10s. 6d.
4s. to 5s. 6d.
6d. to 7d.
lid. to Is. 2d.
6d. to 7d.
Is. 6d. to Is. 9d.
4s.
Is. 4d.
4s.
8s.
4s.
6s. 8d.
12s.
8s.
6s. 8d.
13s. 4d.
6s. 8d.
15s. to 20s.
42s. to 50s.
24s. to 36s.
9s. to 12s.
21s. to 22s.
12s.
10s. to 14s.
24s. to 30s.
24s.
2s. 6d. to os. 6d.
10s. to 15s.
9s.
os. 6d. to 4s.
6s. to 8s.
4s. 6d. to 6s.
3s. to 4s.
6s. to 8s.
4s. to 6s.
6d.
9d. to lOd.
6d. to lOd.
6s. 8d.
13s. 4d. to 16s.
12s. to 14s.
19s. to 19s. 6d.
30s. to 31s. 6d.
20s. to 25s.
8s. to 10s. 6d.
26s. to 30s.
15s. to 30s.
8s. to 14s.
26s. to 30s.
10s. 6d. to 30s.
21s.
45s. to 50s.
40s. to 46s.
10s. to 14s.
30s. to 36s.
ISs. to 24s.
5s. to 6s.
10s. 6d. to 14s.
9s. 6d. to lis. 6d
OS.
15s.
25s.
£3 3s.
£5 5s.
£4 4s.
12s. to 20s.
31s. 6d. to 63s.
44s. to 84s.
7s. to 10s.
12s. to 21s.
10s. 6d. to 84s.
£40
£150
£200
40s. to 60s.
£6 to £12
£8 to £12
£30 to £50
£80 to £100
£50 to £100
2s.
7s. to 9s.
7s.
Is.
Is. 6d.
Is. 3d.
Is.
2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d.
2s. to Ss.
8d. to lOd.
Is. 6d.
Is. 6d. to 2s. 6d.
£3 os.
£7 to £8
£7 to £8
1850.
in 1857; the Scottish vocal music association; the
Association for the revival of sacred music in Scot-
land; the Edinburgh royal naval club; the Royal
Eastern yacht club; the Skating club; the Dud-
dingston curling club, instituted in 1795; the Eoyal
Caledonian curling club, instituted in 1838; the
Merehiston curling club ; the Edinburgh curling
club, instituted in 1830; the Coates curling club,
instituted in 1854; the Drumdryan curling club;
the Edinburgh burgess golfing society, instituted in
1735; the Honourable company of Edinburgh golf-
ers, claiming an unknown antiquity, and figuring
on record since 1744; the Royal Caledonian hunt,
instituted in 1777; the Burntsfield-liuks golf club,
instituted in 1761; the Burntsfield allied golf club,
instituted in 1856; the Warrender golf club, insti-
tuted in 1858; the St. Leonard's golf club, instituted
in 1857; the Merehiston golf club, instituted in
1860; the Salisbury archers club, instituted in 1836;
the Edinburgh toxopholites club, instituted in 1858;
the Grange cricket club, instituted in 1832; the
Newington cricket club; the Edinburgh academical
cricket club ; the Edinburgh academical football
club; the Forth swimming club, instituted in 1850;
and the Eastern boating club, established in 1846.
We may mention here also the Celtic society, which
was instituted in 1820, for promoting the general
use of the ancient Highland dress in the Highlands
of Scotland, and for encouraging education among
the Highlanders by the distribution of prizes in
schools; and the Eoyal company of archers, which
was instituted in 1703 by a charter of Queen Anne,
holds field-days for practice, and is the Queen's body
guard in Scotland.
Learned Societies. — The corporations, associations,
clubs, and other bodies in Edinburgh, which may,
in some sense or other, be called learned, are nu-
EDINBURGH.
567
EDINBURGH.
merous and diversified. One grand group comprises
the Royal society of Edinburgh, instituted in 1783 ;
the Royal college of physicians, instituted in 1631 ;
the Royal college of surgeons, constituted in 1778 ;
the Royal college of veterinary surgeons, incorpor-
ated in 1844; the Astronomical society, instituted
in 1812; the Meteorological society of Scotland,
instituted in 1856; the Royal physical society, in-
stituted in 1771 ; the Edinburgh geological society;
the Botanical society, instituted in 1836; the So-
ciety of antiquaries of Scotland, instituted in 1780;
the Philosophical institution of Edinburgh ; and the
Educational institute of Scotland, instituted in 1847.
Another group comprises the Board of trustees for
the encouragement of manufactures and art in Scot-
land, instituted in 1727 ; the Royal institution for
the encouragement of the fine arts in Scotland,
established in 1819; the Royal Scottish society of
arts, instituted in 1821; the Royal Scottish academy
of painting, sculpture, and architecture, founded in
1826; the Royal association for the promotion of
the fine arts in Scotland, founded in 1833; the Ar-
chitectural institute of Scotland, constituted in 1850;
the People's art union of Scotland ; the Photographic
society of Scotland; the Edinburgh photographic
society; the Highland and Agricultural society of
Scotland, instituted in 1784; the Caledonian horti-
cultural society, instituted in 1809; and the Scottish
arboricultural society. Another group comprises
the associated societies of the university of Edin-
burgh ; the Royal medical society, instituted in
1737; the Harveian society, instituted in 1782 ; the
Hunterian medical society, instituted in 1824; the
Edinburgh obstetrical society ; the Medico-chirur-
gical society, instituted in 1821; the North British
branch of the pharmaceutical society of Great. Bri-
tain; the Phrenological society, instituted in 1820;
the Edinburgh phrenological association; the Scots
law society, instituted in 1815; the Juridical soci-
ety, instituted in 1773; the Dialectic society, insti-
tuted in 17S7 ; the Diagnostic society, instituted in
1816; the Speculative society, instituted in 1764;
the Tusculan society, instituted in 1822 ; the The-
ological society of the university of Edinburgh, in-
stituted in 1776; the Bannatyne club, instituted in
1823; the Edinburgh academical club ; and the High
school club, instituted in 1849. The principal pub-
lic libraries are the Advocates', the Signet, the col-
lege, the subscription, the select subscription, the
philosophical institution, and the mechanics' sub-
scription libraries ; and there are numerous others
belonging to societies and congregations, and seve-
ral excellent circulating ones.
Benevolent Societies. — The institutions, associa-
tions, and public funds which claim, in some man-
ner or other, to be benevolential, range from the
verge of mere self-gratification to the highest flights
of philanthropy and religion, and are exceedingly
numerous. The chief patriotic and quasi-patriotic
ones are the Edinburgh city rifle volunteer corps,
with nineteen companies; the Edinburgh city ar-
tillery volunteer corps, with nine companies ; the
Edinburgh city engineer volunteer corps; the Royal
association of contributors to the national monu-
ment of Scotland; the Wallace monument commit-
tee; and the association for the protection of the
public rights of roadway. The masonic ones are
the grand lodge of the freemasons in Scotland; the
religious and military order of the temple; the grand
chapter of royal arch freemasons of Scotland ; the
royal order of Scotland, dating from Kilwinning;
the supreme council for Scotland of the 33d and last
degree of the ancient and accepted Scottish rite ;
and the lodges of Edinburgh, Mary's chapel, Edin-
burgh journeymen, Edinburgh defensive band, Ed-
inburgh and Leith Celtic, Canongate Kilwinning,
Canongatc and Leith, St. David's, St. Luke's, St.
Andrew's, St. James', St. Stephen's, St. Clair, Ro-
man eagle, Trafalgar, Caledonian, and Rifle. The
principal provident institutions are the National
security savings' bank of Edinburgh, instituted in
1836; the Burgh and parochial schoolmasters' wi-
dows' and children's fund, established in 1807; the
Edinburgh society of teachers, instituted in 1737;
the Society of messengers at arms, instituted prior
to 1631; the Edinburgh school of arts friendly so-
ciety ; the St. Cutbbert's lodge of free gardeners,
instituted in 1824 ; the Society for the sons of the
clergy, instituted in 1790 ; the Widows' fund of the
church and universities of Scotland; tiie Free church
ministers' widows' and orphans' fund ; the Society
for the benefit of the sons and daughters of minis-
ters and missionaries of the Free church; the Friendly
society of ministers in connexion with the United
Presbyterian church, instituted in 1792 ; the Dis-
senting ministers' widows' fund, instituted in 1797;
the Society of sons of United Presbyterian ministers,
instituted in 1854; the Scots episcopal fund, estab-
lished in 1806; and the Scotch episcopal friendly
society, instituted in 1793.
The principal philanthropic institutions are the
numerous asylums, hospitals, and schools, noticed in
our account of the edifices of the city; the Society
for relief of the destitute sick, instituted in 1785;
the Edinburgh benevolent and strangers' friend so-
ciety, instituted in 1815; the Senior and Junior
female societies, instituted in 1797; the Edinburgh
society for the relief of indigent old men, instituted
in 1806 ; the Benevolent fund for the relief of indi-
gent gentlewomen, founded in 1847; the Indian
relief fund, instituted subsequent to the Indian mu-
tinies; the Edinburgh and Leith society for the
relief of deserving foreigners in distress; the Society
in Edinburgh for clothing the industrious poor, in-
stituted in 1815; the Craigcrook mortification for
the benefit of orphans and the aged ; the Fund of
Scottish masonic benevolence, instituted in 1846;
the Society for the education of imbecile children in
Scotland; the Prison discipline society of Scotland;
the Scottish society for prevention of cruelty to
animals, established in 1839 ; the Scottish associa-
tion for suppressing drunkenness; the Association
for promoting improvement in the dwellings and
domestic condition of agricultural labourers in Scot-
land ; the Edinburgh society for the diffusion of
information on capital punishments; the Saturday
half-holiday association, instituted in 1854; the
Edinburgh total abstinence society, instituted in
1836; the Edinburgh ladies' total abstinence soci-
ety ; and fourteen Edinburgh societies for the bene-
fit, in various ways, of natives of Galloway, Ayr-
shire, Lanarkshire, Peebles -shire, Kinross -shire.
Forfarshire, Kincardineshire, Aberdeenshire, Moray-
shire, Caithness, Orkney, and Shetland.
The principal religious institutions, together with
such educational ones as may be appropriately
ranked with them, are the missionary and school
schemes of the several ecclesiastical bodies ; the
Society for propagating Christian knowledge, incor-
porated in 1709; the Edinburgh branch of the so-
ciety for promoting Christian knowledge; the Scot-
tish missionary society, instituted in 1796; the
Scottish Bible society; the Edinburgh Bible society :
the National Bible society of Scotland ; the Scottish
ladies' association for the advancement of female
education in India ; the Female society of the Free
church of Scotland for promoting Christian educa-
tion among the females of India; the Ladies' asso-
ciation for promoting the Christian education of
Jewish females; the Edinburgh ladies' association
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568
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on behalf of Jewish females; the Ladies' Free church
continental association ; the Scottish coast mission,
instituted in 1852 ; the Scottish branch society for
the Irish church missions to the Roman Catholics;
the Scottish ladies' society in aid of the Irish Pres-
byterian mission to Roman Catholics, instituted in
1841 ; the Society in Scotland for promoting reli-
gious knowledge among the poor, instituted in 1786;
the Society for the support of Gaelic schools ; the
Ladies' association for the support of Gaelic schools,
instituted in 1846; the Scottish ladies' association
for promoting female industrial education in Scot-
land; the College for daughters of ministers of the
Church of Scotland and of professors in the Scottish
universities; the Congregational union of Scotland;
the Baptist home missionary society for Scotland;
the Baptist association of Scotland, instituted in
1856 ; the Scottish episcopal church society ; the
missionary association of episcopalians in Scotland ;
the Sabbath alliance; the Edinburgh subdivision of
the evangelical alliance; the Scottish reformation
society, instituted in 1850; the Protestant institute
of Scotland, instituted in 1860 ; the Scottish Pro-
testant association, instituted in 1854 ; the Religious
tract and book society of Scotland, instituted in
1793; the Scottish ' Monthly Visitor' tract society;
the Edinburgh auxiliary naval and military Bible
society; the Edinburgh auxiliary to the London
missionary society ; the Edinburgh auxiliary to the
Irish evangelical society; the Edinburgh associa-
tion in aid of Moravian missions ; the Edinburgh
Church of England missionary association; the Ed-
inburgh ladies' association in aid of the society for
the support of Gaelic schools; the Edinburgh con-
tinental association; the Edinburgh city mission,
instituted in 1832; the Edinburgh medical mission-
ary society; the Edinburgh young men's Christian
association, instituted in 1855; the Edinburgh gratis
Sabbath school society, instituted in 1797 ; the Ed-
inburgh Sabbath school teachers' union, instituted
in 1841 ; the Edinburgh Sabbath school association ;
and the Edinburgh and Leith seamen's friend soci-
ety, instituted in 1820.
Trade.
Manufactures. — Edinburgh abounds in productive
industry, in all departments of ordinary artificer-
ship, and in noble efforts of both skill and labour,
yet has not, and never had, any staple produce of
art for the supply of the general market. Her
manufactures, perhaps, are more diversified, exhibit
a larger aggregate of genius, than those of many
other great towns ; but some are of the common
kinds for the supply of local wants, and therefore
need not be mentioned, while the rest are all on so
limited a scale as to require only the briefest notice.
The linen manufacture was at one time consider-
able, but sank, many years ago, into decline, and is
now extinct. The making of rich shawls and plaids,
in imitation of India shawls, was commenced in
1805, and promised for a time to become a staple,
but never made much way against competition in
other quarters, and has very greatly declined. A
large handsome edifice, at Fountainbridge, was
erected in 1841 as a silk spinning-mill, but did not
succeed; and is now an American India-rubber
over-shoe factory, employing about 350 hands. Ano-
ther large neat edifice, in the same locality, built in
1861, is a comb factory, employing about 150 hands.
Extensive suites of Hour mills stand in various parts
of the outskirts, and are owned by twelve mill-
masters. There are also twenty-two malt liquor
breweries, one barm brewery, six distilleries, and
six rectifying establishments; several of the brew-
eries and distilleries very large. A number of
paper-mills in the vicinity, particularly in the val-
ley of the North Esk, may be regarded as belonging
to Edinburgh, and are represented in it by twenty-
one wholesale stationery warehouses. Carpet-mak-
ing has seven establishments; floor-cloth making,
two ; fringe and tassel making, four; and furniture-
printing, three. Coach-building is carried on in
nineteen establishments, coach-lace-making in two,
coach-spring-making in one, and saddlery and har-
ness in twenty-one. Glass-making maintains ten
establishments, glass-cutting three, glass-staining
five, and the making of glass-chandeliers one.
There were likewise, in the city and its environs,
in 1861, 12 iron-foundries, or warehouses connected
with them, 6 establishments for making agricultural
implements, 6 for making bricks and tiles, 14 for
making machines, 4 for making tools, 3 for making
carpenters' tools, 2 for making saws, II for making
articles of cutlery, 1 for making steel punches, 5 for
making beams and steel-yards, 6 for making wire-
cloth, 4 for making wire-netting, 13 for basket-mak-
ing, 17 for brush-making, 2 for making whips and
thongs. 8 for making fishing-tackle, 2 for comb-mak-
ing, 2 for glove-making, 4 for colour-making, 7 for
candle-making, 2 for soap-making, 8 for making dies
and stamps, 3 for making printers' types, 4 for mak-
ing printers' presses, 1 for making printers' ink, 9
for making gas-meters, 1 for making globes, 8 for
making trunks and portmanteaus, 3 for making but-
tons, 4 for making artificial flowers, 6 for making
bandages and artificial limbs, 2 for making lasts, 4
for stuffing birds and quadrupeds, 3 for manufactur-
ing chemicals, 1 for making chemical instruments,
3 for making philosophical instruments, 3 for mak-
ing stucco- work, 5 for building organs, 17 for mak-
ing musical instruments, 7 for making hats, 9 for
making pocket-books and dressing-cases, 1 for mak-
ing gold and silver lace, 1 for manufacturing hair, 2
for making coloured paper, 1 for making waterproofs
and airprool's, 1 for making bows, 1 for making bits
and spurs, 50 for making clocks and watches, 7 for
making German clocks, 97 for making cabinet-work,
6 for making iron-bedsteads-, 10 for making Venetian
blinds, 12 for working leather, 15 for making ropes
and sails, 1 for making millstones, 5 for cutting mar-
ble, 1 for making whiting, 1 for manufacturing gela-
tine, 1 for making varnish, 3 for making vinegar, 6
for making pipes, 1 for refining metal, and 1 for re-
fining sugar. The proportions of all the finer classes
of artificers also, especially those in fancy work and
trinketry, are exceedingly large for the city, — clearly
indicating that they serve for a great extent of gen-
eral market.
The workers in all the fine arts, too, particularly
painters and sculptors, were they reckoned merely
by their numbers, and by the amount of money they
command, might well be regarded as a great body
of manufacturers. The nurserymen likewise are
large producers for large part of Scotland, having
amongst them in the environs of the city, or almost
interlaced with some of its out-streets, no fewer than
sixteen nurseries, most of which are very large.
The work of education, too, in everything except
tangibility, or as regards at once the attracting of
money, the giving of employment, and the develop-
ing of industry, produces the effects of a real manu-
facture, and of a great one. And the book-trade,
besides being in itself, as we shall immediately see,
a large literal manufacture, is the maintaining cause
of several of the manufactures which we have enu-
merated, and a strong stimulus to others.
The Publishing Trade. — Literature is not far from
being a staple produce of the metropolis. In the
printing of law papers for the legal functionaries, of
bibles and school-books for general diffusion over
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569
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Scotland, of numerous periodicals of national circu-
lation, and of volumes or ponderous works of popu-
lar attraction or standard and enduring value, a
proportion of operatives and of literary persons —
particularly the former — incomparably greater is
employed in Edinburgh than in any other town of
the three kingdoms except London. So late as near
the close of the ISth century, literature, in the strict
sense of the word, was little more an article of man-
ufacture than in any Scottish provincial town; but
it started up with an energy, and proceeded with
attractions, and increased with a rapidity which
have eventually earned for the city the name of
Modern Athens, in compliment more to her learned-
ness and her being the emporium of the nation's
means of knowledge, than even to the characteristic
features of her topographical position. The Ency-
clopedia Britannica was the first large work which
the Edinburgh press produced; and, bulky and
magnificent as it was, it gave but imperfect indica-
tion of the spirit of achievement which had been
roused. The beautiful, incessant, and very varied
productions of the Ballantyne press, combined with
the princely speculations of Constable, and the cor-
ruscations of talent which played from the literary
coteries of the Edinburgh Review and Blackwood's
Magazine, were the first demonstrations to the
world that Edinburgh was taking her place as a
manufactory and a mart of literature. But the ma-
chinery of publishing was as yet chiefly propelled
by one individual, and after his death, seemed, for a
time, to be obscured partially from view; but it has
since been greatly multiplied in its powers, and
advantageously distributed among many possess-
ors, so as to work with the vigour and the glee of
healthful competition.
There are at present eight large establishments,
besides agencies of some others, entirely devoted to
wholesale or number publishing. There are nearly
thirty other establishments which, in greater or less
degree, combine the business of publishing with the
business of retail bookselling. There are upwards
of eighty other shops, besides boxes and stalls, de-
voted to the sale of books ; many of them in such a
manner as to render Edinburgh a book-mart scarce-
ly more for itself than for a great extent of country;
and seven of them having large circulating libraries
attached. A number of the printing-offices, both
those belonging to the great publishers and those
employed in general customer- work, are very large,
resembling far more factories than workshops. En-
graving and lithographing, not only for general
purposes, but in special connexion with map-making
and with the producing of illustrated books, are in
extensive request, there being at present fifty-nine
engravers or engraving establishments, ten en-
gravers on wood, and twenty-nine lithographic
printing establishments.
The proportion of grave, informational, standard
books, as contrasted to frivolous, fictionary, ephem-
eral ones, is very much greater than in London.
The periodicals — though scarcely a fair index of
either the amount or the quality of volumes and
serials — are sufficient to indicate their prevailing
tone. Those at present in course of publication —
not to name two of the best, in London which were
removed thither some years ago from Edinburgh,
nor several other weighty ones in England whose
value materially consists in the contributions of
Edinburgh literati — are the North British Review,
the British and Foreign Evangelical Review, the
Edinburgh Philosophical Magazine, the Quarterly
Journal of Agriculture, the Journal of Jurispru-
dence, the Edinburgh Medical Journal, the Scottish
Gardener, Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, Mac-
phail's Magazine, the United Presbyterian Maga-
zine, ihe Reformed Presbyterian Magazine, the
Scottish Congregational Magazine, the News of the
Churches, the Scottish Ecclesiastical Journal, the
Church of Scotland Home and Foreign Mission-
ary Record, the Home and Foreign Record of the
Free Church, the Missionary Record of the United
Presbyterian Church, Chambers' Edinburgh Jour-
nal, the Christian Treasury, the Family Treasury,
Good Words, the Bulwark, and the Eastern Fe-
males' Friend. The newspapers published in Edin-
burgh, in 1862, were — daily, the Caledonian Mer-
cury, the Daily Review, the Courant, and the Scots-
man; thrice a-week, the Witness; twice a-week,
the Evening Courant, the Gazette, the North Briton,
the Scotsman, and the Scottish Press; and weekly,
the Edinburgh News, the Ladies' Own Journal, the
Mid-Lothian Advertiser, the North British Adver-
tiser, the Scottish Farmer, the Scottish Railway
Gazette, the Week, the Weekly Mercury, the Week-
ly Review, and the Weekly Scotsman.
General Traffic. — Edinburgh is the seat of a very
extensive general retail trade, for the supply of re-
spectively its own stated population, its shoals of
transient visitors, the shoals of travellers passing
through it, and a large breadth of circumjacent
populous country. In consequence, also, of its
being the stated winter residence of many of the
country gentry, and the occasional residence of all
classes of wealthy families, considerable portions of
the rents of distant estates and of the dividends of
all sorts of stocks pass through the hands of its
bankers. It is likewise the seat of a very great
market for rural produce. Weekly markets of large
value are held in the Grassmarket for grain, and in
the cattle-market-place for sheep and black cattle;
and annually, in November, ill-hallow fair is held
during two days, in the southern outskirts, for sheep,
black cattle, and horses. A very large commerce
also belongs to Edinburgh, the trade of Leith being
chiefly and that of Granton wholly the trade of
Edinburgh, — distinguishable by little else than the
circumstance that these places are not within the
city's municipal boundaries. Edinburgh is likewise
the seat of numerous public bodies, boards, and com-
mittees who control or manage the traffic of great
part of the kingdom ; and it has its own Merchants'
Company, established in 1681, its own Chamber of
commerce and manufactures, instituted in 1786, and
its own stock-exchange, formed in January 1845.
Hanks. — The banking-offices in Edinburgh are
those of the Bank of Scotland, the Royal bank of
Scotland, the Commercial bank of Scotland, the
British Linen Company's bank, the National bank
of Scotland, the Union bank of Scotland, the Clydes-
dale bank, the City of Glasgow bank, the Oriental
hank corporation, and the Agra and United Service
bank, — the statistics of all of which, except the last,
have been sufficiently given in our General Intro-
duction.
Insurance Companies. — The insurance-offices in
the city, variously head and branch, amount to no
fewer than eighty-four. Some of the most prominent
are the Friendly insurance company, established in
1720; the Caledonian insurance company, estab-
lished in 1805, with a capital of £150,000 ; "the Her-
cules fire and life insurance companv, established in
1809, with a capital of £750,000; the North British
fire and life insurance company, established in 1S09,
with a capital of £500,000 ; the Scottish widows'
fund life assurance society, founded in 1815, with a
capital of £1,000.000; the Edinburgh life assurance
company, established in 1823, with a capital of
£500,000; the Scottish union insurance companv.
instituted in 1824, with a capital of £5,000,000; the
EDINBUEGH.
570
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Standard life assurance company, established in
1825, with a capital of £500,000; the Scottish pro-
vident institution for life assurance and annuities ;
the Scottish equitable life assurance society; the
National fire and life insurance company of Scotland,
established in 1841, with a capital of £200,000; the
life association of Scotland, founded in 1838; the
Colonial life assurance company, with a capital of
£1,000,000; the English and Scottish law life as-
surance and loan association, established in 1839,
with a capital of £1,000,000; and the insurance
company of Scotland, originally established in 1821,
with a capital of £760,000, and united in 1847 to
the Alliance assurance company, with a capital of
£5,000,000.
Hotels. — The number of hotels and large inns in
Edinburgh is about eighty. The style of most of
them is excellent. " No city out of London can offer
better hotel accommodation. In this respect it pre-
sents at this day a striking contrast to what it did
at the end of last century. Then there was scarcely
a place that could be dignified with the name of
hotel ; and its inns were mean buildings, with dingy
and dirty apartments, slovenly attendants, and
totally devoid of any semblance of comfort. Now
the case is altered. Spacious hotels and clubs of
princely appearance rear their heads in almost every
street, and every thing that can be desired for the
comfort of the inner or the outer man may be had.
The accommodation some of these establishments
offer is really superb ; and at the same time there
is such a variety of houses of all grades as to suit
every class of persons from the peer to the peasant,
no man needing to go to the expense of a single
shilling beyond what his purse warrants him in
expending."
Among the first-class hotels are Barry's British
in Qneen-street, Douglas' in St. Andrew-square, and
the Royal, the Caledonian, and the Balmoral in
Prince's-street. Among family hotels are the Lon-
don, the Waterloo, the Queen's, Lambre's, and Ken-
nedy's. Among commercial hotels are the Bridge,
the Crown, the Turf, the Star, the Ship, the Albert,
the Regent, the Royal British, the English, Ers-
kine's, and Sievewright's. Among temperance hotels
are the Albion, the Waverley, Maclaren's, Jaap's,
Brown's, Milne's, and Buchanan's. Other hotels of
note are the Alma, the Bedford, the Clarence, Grieve's,
the Cafe Royal, the Edinburgh, and the Cockburn.
The great majority of the hotels are either in
Princes-street or in places near it. ' The number of
small inns, and respectable lodging-houses, is ex-
ceedingly great ; and that of inferior places of enter-
tainment is so vast as to be an utter nuisance to
both strangers and denizens. There are about
twenty refreshment and reading-rooms for the work-
ing-classes.
Communications. — The North British, the Cale-
donian, the Edinburgh and Glasgow, and the Edin-
burgh, Perth, and Dundee railways diverge from
Edinburgh as from a centre, each having here a
grand terminus, all communicating here with one
another, and all so freely ramifying into branches,
and so abundantly connecting themselves with
other railways, as to offer communication, more or
less direct, with almost all parts of the kingdom.
The Union canal, though now stripped of the greater-
part of its wo-th by the westward railways, still
offers to Edinburgh the advantages of a cheap com-
munication with the mineral fields of Linlithgow-
shire and Stirlingshire. Steamers from Leith, New •
haven, and Granton afford ready communication
with Rotterdam, Hamburgh, Newcastle, Hull, Lon-
don, the coast-towns. of Fifeshire, Bo'ness, Alloa,
Stirling, Dundee, Aberdeen, the coast-towns of the
Moray frith, Wick, Thurso, Orkney, and Shetland.
Coaches run from Edinburgh to Bilston, Blackshiels,
Blythbridge, Corstorphine, Dalkeith, Dunfermline,
Habbie's Howe, Inverkeithing, Lasswade, Loan-
head, Musselburgh, Portobello, Penicuick, Queens-
ferry, Ratho, Roslin, Pathhead, and West Linton.
Omnibuses ply within the city and its environs,
between High-street and Leith, between the Mound
and Leith, between Newington and Stockbridge,
between the Mound and Whitehorse, and between
the Register-house and Morningside. A profuse
supply of licensed cabs and hackney-coaches stands
ever ready for hire, from an early hour till a late
one, at numerous appointed stances throughout the
city.
Statistics.
School Statistics. — Any attempt to enumerate the
public schools of Edinburgh, or the great private
schools and the boarding schools, would occupy
much more space than we can spare. The total
number of day-schools in Mid- Lothian in 1851 was
399, — of which 232 were public and 167 were private;
and considering that the population of the city com-
prises nearly two-thirds of that of the county, but
especially that a considerable proportion of it is but
temporarily resident for the express purpose of
securing the education of children, we may infer
that at least 300 of the schools, or at any rate
that at least three-fourths of the apparatus of all the
399, must have been within the city. And a very
large number of them, be the total what it might,
must be estimated, as to both attendance and effi-
ciency, on a very different principle from the aggre-
gate of schools throughout the kingdom, their size,
their appointments, and their range being far above
the average. The proportion of children between 5
and 12 years of age reported in the Census returns
of 1851 to be in attendance on the schools was 73 8
per cent, of the whole number of children of that age
in the Old town, 87"1 per cent, in the New town,
82-4 per cent, in the whole city. The number of
scholars of all ages reported in the Census of 1861
was 29,969. The number of teachers of classics
whose names appear in the City Directory of 1862
is 18; of dancing, 9; of drawing, 13; of elocution,
4; of fencing, 3; of French, 13; of German, 9; of
Italian, 1; of music, 58; of mathematics, 6; of navi-
gation, 2 ; of writing and arithmetic, 12 ; of English
and miscellaneous departments, 55.
Church Statistics. — In 1851, according to the
Census, there were within the parliamentary burghs
of Edinburgh and Leith 139 places of public wor-
ship. The attendance at 123 of these, on the 30th
of March, was 48,886 in the forenoon, 47,227 in the
afternoon, and 11,319 in the evening. The number of
sittings in 106 of them was 81,873; of which 14,876
were free, and 53,897 appropriated. Of the Estab-
lished Church, 26 had a forenoon attendance of
8,764, and 23 contained 19,994 sittings; and there
were altogether 34. Of the Free Church, 29 had
an attendance of 15,315, and 26 contained 20,830
sittings; and there were altogether 30. Of the
United Presbyterian church, 20 had an attendance
of 12,792, and 18 contained 20,465 sittings; and
there were altogether 21. Of the Original Seceders,
1 had an attendance of 250, and contained 900 sit-
tings; and there were altogether 3. Of the Re-
formed Presbyterians, 1 had an attendance of 317,
and contained 540 sittings. Of the Episcopalians,
10 had an attendance of 3,052, and 7 contained
3,796 sittings; and there were altogether 11. Of
the Independents, 6 had an attendance of 2,376, and
contained 5,610 sittings. Of the Evangelical Union,
there was one; no report from which was given.
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571
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01' the Baptists, 7 had .in attendance of 1,654, and
6 contained 3,090 sittings. Of the Society of
Friends, 1 had an attendance of 47, and contained
430 sittings. Of the Unitarians, 1 had an attend-
ance of HO, and contained 750 sittings. Of the
Wesleyan Methodists, 4 had an attendance of
682, and contained 1,865 sittings. Of the Prim-
itive Methodists, 1 had an attendance of 50, and
contained 250 sittings. Of the Glassites, 1 had an
attendance of 150, and contained 260 sittings. Of
the New Church. 1 had an attendance of 50, and
contained 150 sittings. Of the Catholic and Apos-
tolic church, 1 had an attendance of 1S5, and con-
tained 300 sittings. Of the Jews, 1 had an attend-
ance of 28, and contained 67 sittings. Of the
Roman Catholics, four had an attendance of 2,454,
and 2 contained 1,500 sittings; and there were alto-
gether 5. And of isolated congregations, 8 had an
attendance of 750, and 5 contained 1,070 sittings ;
and there were altogether 9.
Edinburgh is the seat of a presbytery, in the
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The royalty
contains the parishes of High church, Old church,
New North, Tron, Tolbooth, Old Greyfriars, New
Greyfriars, Trinity College, Lady Yester's, St.
John's, St. George's, St. Andrew's, St. Stephen's,
St. Mary's, and Greenside. The parliamentary
burgh, now also the municipal burgh, contains like-
wise the parish of Canongate, the precincts of the
castle, large part of the parish of St. Cuthbert's, most
part of the parish of South Leith, and small parts of
the parishes of North Leith, Duddingston and Liber-
ton. The High, the Tron, St. Andrew's, Canongate,
St. Cuthbert's, and South Leith parishes are colle-
giate. All the charges within the royalty were for-
merly in the patronage of the town-council ; but by
the annuity tax-abolition act of 1860, those of the
Tolbooth, the Old church, the second High, the se-
cond Tron, and the second St. Andrew's, passed to
the Edinburgh Ecclesiastical commissioners. These
are ten persons, elected by certain public bodies,
in terms of the act, to administer the temporal af-
fairs of the city churches, and they have power, at
the next vacancies, to allow those five charges to
lapse. The patron of the first charge of Canongate, of
both charges of St. Cuthbert's, and of the first charge
of South Leith, is the Crown; the patrons of the se-
cond charge of Canongate are the heritors and the
Kirk-session ; and the patrons of the second charge
of South Leith are the Kirk-session and the Leith in-
corporations. The stipend of the city ministers is all
on one platform ; it was paid, till 1860, mainly from
the annuity tax, on houses and shops within the
royalty, and it rose from £200 each in 1802 to £625
in 1850 ; but it is now paid chiefly from new taxes
mixed up with the police assessment, and is fixed
for the life-time of the present incumbents, at
£600 each, but may be decreased afterwards to £550.
Each of the ministers of Canongate has a stipend
of £240; and the first has a manse, — the second £40
for house-rent. Each of the ministers of St. Cuth-
bert's had, till lately, a stipend of about £365,
but now has more, and the one has a manse, —
the other, £60 for house-rent. The stipend of the
South Leith ministers will be stated in the ar-
ticle on Leith. In 1851, according to a return
to a committee of the House of Commons by the
kirk-sessions, the number of communicants in High
church parish was 386; in Old church parish, 234;
in the New North, 490; in the Tron, 300; in the
Tolbooth and the Old Greyfriars, 235 ; in the New
Greyfriars, 615 ; in Trinity College, 237 ; in Lady
Yester's. 900 ; in St. John's, 432 ; in St. George's,
600 ; in St. Andrew's, 806 ; in St. Stephen's, 900 ;
in St. Mary's, 715 ; and in Greenside, 1,060.
There are in Old Greyfriars' parish the qunad-sacra
parochial Gaelic church ; in St. George's parish, the
chapel of ease of St. Luke; in Canongate parish, tin:
chapel of ease of New-street ; in the palish of St.
Cuthbert's, the quoad-sacra parochial churches of
Buccleuch, St. Bernard's, and Newington, and the
chapels of ease of St. David's, the Lean, Lady Glen-
orchy's, and Morningside. The patrons of the Gaelic
church are the Society for propagating Christian
knowledge; of St. Luke's, the session of St. George's;
of New-street church, members, &e. ; of Buccleuch
church, communicants and trustees; of St. Bernard's,
the managers; of St. David's, the session of St.
Cuthbert's ; and of Newington, Dean, Lady Glenor-
chy's, and Morningside churches, trustees. — The
total of contributions toward the General Assembly's
schemes, in the year 1861-2, by the High church,
was £27 19s. 7d. ; the Old church, £5 10s. lOd. ;
the New North, £68 14s.;' the Tron, £93 10s.; the
Tolbooth, £9 ISs. ; Old Greyfriars, £32 16s. lOd. ;
New Greyfriars, £29 16s.; Trinity College, £15
12s.; Lady Yester's, £49 3s.; St. John's, £3 16s.
Id. ; St. George's, £240 10s 7d. ; St. Andrew's, £236
10s.; St. Stephen's, £237 14s. Id. ; St. Mary's, £66
15s. 8d.; Greenside, £151 7s.; Canongate, £3 8s.
5d. ; St. Cuthbert's, £121 15s. 7d. ; South Leith,
£29 9s. 6d. ; the Gaelic, £1 16s. ; St. Luke's, £23
8s. lid.; Buccleuch, £32 lis. 7d. ; St. Bernard's,
£51 10s.; Newington, £59 9s.; St. David's, 9s.;
Dean, £5 5s.; Morningside, £14 3s. 4d.
The number of Free church places of worship was
25 in 1850, and 30 in 1862. The number of com-
municants in 1850, was — in the High church, 818;
in the New North, 650 ; in the Tron, 344 ; in the
Tolbooth, 975 ; in Greyfriars, 454 ; in St. John's,
962; in St. George's, 918; in St. Andrew's, 426;
in St. Stephen's, 472 ; in St. Mary's, 507 ; in the
Canongate, 371; in St. Cuthbert's, 251; in the Gaelic,
416; in St. Bernard's, 520; in Buccleuch, 316; in
the Dean, 334; in Holyrood, 104; in Lady Glen-
orchy's, 749 ; in Newington, 650 ; in Pilrig, 252 ;
in Eoxhurgh, 258; in St. David's, 350 ; in St. Luke's,
570; in St. Paul's, 550; and in Westport, 350. The
sums raised by the congregations, in the year 1861-2,
were — the High church, £3,115 15s. 5d. ; the New
North, £2,437 9s. ; the Tron, £293 14s. OJd. ; the
Tolbooth, £2,150 12s. lOd. ; Greyfriars, £860 12s.
3Jd. ; St. John's, £2,935 19s. ; St. George's, £6,476
10s. 6d. ; St. Andrew's, £2,667 8s. 9Jd.; St. Ste-
phen's, £1,802 6s. 5Jd. ; St. Mary's, £5,410 2s. llfd.;
Canongate, £378 4s. 1 Jd. ; St. Cuthbert's, £625 4s.
6d.; the Gaelic, £1,135 2s. 8d.; St. Bernard's,
£661 9s. 9d.; Buccleuch, £593 14s. 8d. ; the Dean,
£382 2s. 6d. ; Holyrood, £468 19s.; Lady Glen-
orchy's, £755 19s 11 Jd.; Newington, £955 10s.
5d.; Pilrig, £2,955 13s. 3d.; Roxburgh, £599
19s. 4d. ; St. David's, £305 10s. ; St. Luke's, £1.286
4s. 2£d. ; St. Paul's, £811 6s. 2d; Westport, £533
14s.; Cowgate, £176 3s. 5d. ; Cowgatehead, £261
6s. 6|d. ; Fountainbridge, £931 2s. 0M. ; M'Crie's,
£509 8s. Id. ; and Pleasance, £150 8s._2|d.
The other places of worship, in 1862, were — Ar-
thur-street United Presbyterian church, with 690 sit-
tings ; Bread-street or Union U. P. church, with
1,050 sittings; Bristo U. P. church, with 1,671 sit-
tings; Broughton-place U. P. church, with 1,600
sittings; South College-street U. P. church, on
the site of a previous church, which had 1,667
sittings; Dean-street or Stockbridge U. P. church,
with 1,200 sittings; St. James'-place U. P. church,
with 1,540 sittings ; Infirmary-street U. P. church,
belonging to a congregation who previously oc-
cupied what is now St. Patrick's Roman-Ca-
tholic church in Cowgate; Laurieston-place U.
P. church, built by a congregation who removed to
EDINBURGH.
572
EDINBURGH.
it from Portsburgh church ; Lothian Road U. P.
church, with 1,284 sittings; Newington or Duncan-
street U. P. church, with 700 sittings; Nicolson-
street U. P. church, with 1,170 sittings; North Rich-
mond-street U. P. church ; Portsburgh U. P. church,
with 832 sittings ; Potterrow U. P. church, with
885 sittings; Queen-street U. P. church, the synod-
hall ; Rose-street U. P. church, 1,363 sittings; Hen-
derson and Mary-chapel U. P. mission churches, in
in High-street; the Reformed Presbyterian church,
on George IV's Bridge ; the Original Secession
churches, in South-bridge, and Laurieston-street ;
the Augustine Independent church, on George IV's
Bridge; the Albany-street Independent chapel, with
878 sittings; the Richmond place Independent chap-
el; the Evangelical Union places of worship in Brigh-
ton-street and George-street, the former originally
Presbyterian; the Dublin-street Baptist chapel, built
by a congregation who removed to it from one with
480 sittings in Elder-street, the Leith-walk Baptist
chapel, with 1,000 sittings; the Rose-street Baptist
chapel, with 750 sittings ; the Baptist places of
worship in Bristo-place, Richmond-court, and Ar-
gyle-square; St. Paul's Episcopal church, in York-
place, with 1,036 sittings; St. John's Episcopal
church, in Princes-street, with 821 sittings; St.
George's Episcopal church, in York-place, with 642
sittings; Trinity. St. James', St. Andrew's, St. Pe-
ter's. St. Paul's, St. Jolm's-Scbool. St. Thomas', and
St. Vincent's Episcopal churches, respectively in
Dean, Brrmghton-street, South back of Canongate,
Lutton-place, Carrubher's-close, Earl Grey-street,
Rutland-street, and St. Vincent-street; the Wesley-
an Methodist chapel, with 1,278 sittings, in Nicol-
son-square ; the United Methodist Free church, in
Drummond-street; the Friends' Meeting-house, in
Pleasance; the Catholic Apostolic church, in Brough-
ton-street; the Roman Catholic churches of St. Mary,
St. Patrick, and the Sacred Heart, in Broughton-
street, Cowgate, and Laurieston-street ; and the
Jews' synagogue, in Richmond-court.
Life 'Statistics — Longevity in Edinburgh as com-
pared to longevity in other places has been com-
puted as follows, — the proportion per 1,000 of
persons who die above 60 years of age is 229 in
England and Wales, 206 in London, 204 in Edin-
burgh, 198 in Bristol, 159 in Birmingham, 130 in
Manchester, 129 in Glasgow, and 112 in Liverpool.
The mean age of persons at death in Edinburgh has
been computed at 47'22 in the class of gentry and
professional men, 36'53 in the class of merchants,
and 25'88 in the class of artisans. But comparative
longevity in the New town and iu the Old town,
and again between the aggregate of the Old town
and the most crowded parts of it, is very striking.
" With a nearly equal population in the two grand
departments of the city," says Mr. Thorburn, in his
Statistical Analysis of the 1851 census of Edinburgh,
" we find 677 persons in the New town above 70
years of age, while in the Old town that class
amounts to only 384. The district in the Old town
the least favourable to longevity is High church
parish, lying between Bank-street and North-bridge-
street, and that too among an almost purely Scottish
population. While the ratio of persons above 70 in
the ancient and extended royalty is l-65 per cent,
to the whole population, and that of the New town
to its population is 2-04 per cent., the Old town
shows to its population a ratio of only 124 percent.,
and the High church parish falls so low as 0'79 per
cent. There is thus in that parish only one person
above 70 years of age in 120 of the population. In
the entire royalty, the males above 70 amount to
388, being 1-44 per cent, of the male population ;
while the females amount to the greatly larger
number and ratio of 681 or nearly two per cent, of
the population of that sex. And as to the mortality
of the young, the total population in the first year
is 962, while by the fifth year it has fallen to 583,
the decrease between the two ages being equal to
about 40 per cent. In the New town again, we
find the following figures, — first year, 622; fifth
year 503, or about 18 per cent, of decrease, showing
a difference in favour of the New town of about 22
per cent. The difference is still more startling if
we take the parish of St. Mary's, in which the
numbers stand thus, — first year, 127; fifth year,
115, showing the small decrease of only about 9 per
cent."
Population Statistics. — We shall state first the
population of the urban section of the county, com-
prising Edinburgh, Leith, and their suburbs; next,
the population of the parliamentary burgh of Edin-
burgh ; next the population of the royal burgh of
Edinburgh, ancient and extended; and next, the
population of the parishes and parts of parishes
contained within the parliamentary burgh. And
we may premise that the parishes of the ancient
royalty are High church, Old church, New North,
Tron, Tolbooth, Trinity College, Lady Yester's, Old
Greyfriars, New Greyfriars, and St. John's; that the
parishes of the extended royalty are St. George's, St.
Andrew's, St. Stephen's, St. Mary's, and Greenside;
that the parishesof St. John's and Greenside were con-
stituted subsequently to 1831, the former out of the
New North and two Greyfriars, and the latter out of
St. Andrew's; and that Edinburgh castle is ultra-
parochial. It may be well also to indicate the in-
dividual situation of each of the parishes of the
royalty. New Greyfriars lies south of the Grass-
market, and west of Candlemaker-row ; Old Grey-
friars, south of the Cowgate, east of Candlemaker-
row, and west of College- wynd and West College-
street; Lady Yester's, south of the Cowgate, and
east of College- wynd and West College-street;
the Old church, north of the Cowgate, • south
of the High-street, and east of South Gray's or
Mint close; the Tron, north of the Cowgate, south
of the High-street, west of South Gray's or Mint
close, and east of Blair-street ; the New North,
north of the Cowgate, south of the High-street,
west of Blair-street, and east of George IV.'s
bridge ; St. John's, north of the Cowgate and the
Grassmarket, south of the Lawnmarket and the
New Western approach, and west of George IV.'s
bridge; the Tolbooth, north of the Lawnmarket and
the New Western approach, and west of Bank-street ;
the High church, north of the High-street, east of
Bank-street, and west of North-bridge-street; and
Trinity College, north of the High-street, and east
of North-bridge-street. St. George's lies south of
Queen-street, and west of Hanover-street ; St. Ste-
phen's, north of Queen-street, and west of Dundas-
street, Pitt-street, and Brandon-street ; St. Mary's,
north of Queen-street, York-place, Picardy-place,
and Leith-walk, and east of Dundas-street, Pitt-
street, and Brandon-street ; Greenside, south-east of
Leith-walk and of the continuation of that thorough-
fare up toward Leith-street, and east of the entry to
Nottingham-place and of the Calton-hill stairs; and
St. Andrew's, south of Queen-street, York-place,
and Picardy-place, west of the head of Leith-walk
and of the entry to Nottingham-place, and east of
Hanover-street.
Population of Edinburgh, Leith, and their sub-
urbs in 1801, 82,560; in 1811, 102,987; in 1821,
138,235; in 1831, 161,909; in 1841, 166,450; in
1851, 193,929; in 1861, 201,749. Inhabited houses
in 1851, 10,217; in 1861, 12,335. Population of
the parliamentary burgh of Edinburgh in 1841,
EDINBURGH.
573
EDINBURGH.
140,2-11; in 1861, 168,121. Houses, 9,760.^ Popu-
lation of the royal burgh of Edinburgh in 1841,
56,336; in 1861,' 6(3,429. Houses, 3,585. Popula-
tion of the ancient royalty in 1S41, 24,390; in 1861,
31,979. Houses, 1,189. Population of the extend-
ed royalty in 1841,29,588; in 1861,34,450. Houses,
2,396. Population of the lliprli church parish in
1831,2,614; in 1861, 2,487. Houses, 101. Popu-
lation of Old church parish in 1831, 1,952; in 1861,
4,444. Houses, 194. Population of tlie New North
parish in 1831, 1.350; in 1861,3,952. Houses, 126.
Population of the Tron parish in 1831, 3,009; in
1861, 3,288. Houses, 133. Population of the Tol-
booth parish in 1831, 3,016; in 1861, 2,321. Houses,
75. Population of Trinity College parish in 1831,
4,244; in 1861, 3,306. Houses, 127. Population
of Lady Yester's parish in 1831, 2,890; in 1861,
2,708. Houses, 100. Population of Old Grey friars
parish in 1831. 4.345; in 18(51, 3,365. Houses, 147.
Population of New Grey friars parish in 1831,4,536;
in 1861, 3.413. Houses, 90. Population of St.
John's parish in 1841, 2,140; in 1861, 2,695. Houses,
96. Population of St. George's parish in 1831,
7.338; in 1861, 9,169. Houses, 6S7. Population
of St. Andrew's parish in 1S31, 7,339; in 1861,4,310.
Houses, 328. Population of St. Stephen's parish in
1831, 5,772 ; in 1861, 8,313. Houses. 542. Popu-
lation of St. Mary's parish in 1831, 6.5S7 ; in 1861,
8.126. Houses, 644. Population of Greenside par-
ish in 1841, 3,636; in 1861, 4,532. Houses, 195.
Population of Canongate parish in 1831, 10,175; in
1861,10,971. Houses, 501. Population of the part
of St. Cuthbert's parish within the parliamentary
burgh in 1841, 70,722 ; in 1861, 86.000. Population
of tiie whole of St. Cuthbert's parish in 1S3 1,70,887;
in 1861, 91,325. Houses, 5,955. Population of the
part of South Leitb parish within the parliamentary
burgh of Edinburgh, in 1841, 3,229; ill 1861, 4,017.
Military in Edinburgh castle, in 1841, 754; in 1861,
66S. The city sends two members to parliament. —
In 1S3*4, the parliamentary constituency was 7,714;
the municipal constituency, 4,230. In 1861 the
constituency, both parliamentary and municipal,
was 8,833. The yearly value of real property,
within the parliamentary burgh, in 1843, was
£657,665, in 1861-2, £868,495.
History.
The Origin of Edinburgh. — Ancient Edinburgh
was of such remote origin as to be for some time
perceptible to modern inquiry only through the
tbick haze of fable and uncertainty which the early
romancing annals of all old cities and countries de-
light to throw round their objects. Situated, too,
in the Roman province of Valentia, within the ter-
ritories of the Picts, at a point easily accessible
from the plains of England, it witnessed numerous
incursions and devastations during all the great
roistering periods of Scotland's early history, so as
to suffer successive!}' from Romans, from Cale-
donians, and from the Anglo-Saxons, but most of
all from the invading army of Edward I., severe
obliterations of such records as had been framed on
either stone or parchment of the circumstances of
its origin and the events of its early cycles. Most
writers, whatever opinions they may entertain re-
specting its antiquity as a mere town-seat of popula-
tion, are agreed that the Castle-rock was fortified
by the Ottadini long before their subjugation by the
Romans. The most ancient name on record applied
to the rock is Castelh-Mynyd-Agned, which means,
in the language of the Britons, ' the Fortress of the
hill of Agnes.' Either, therefore, the rock was for-
tified after the time of St. Agnes, or it was bereft, in
the Christian era, of its original name. At a later
date, when a monkish fable was fabricated as to its
having been the residence of the daughters of the
Pictisli kings, it was called Castrum 1'uellarum.
About or after the year 617, when the Anglo-Saxon
domination in theLothians had been established, and
when Edwin, a powerful Northumbrian prince of
that race, began bis reign, it acquired the name of
Edwin's-burgh. The Celtic population, moulding
the name into affinity with their language, called it
Dun Edin, and, at the same time, made the name
descriptive of the site, — the words Dun Edin mean-
ing ' the Face of a hill.' The town probably owed
not only its name, but its origin, to the residence of
the Northumbrian Edwin; for, according to the
statements of Simon of Durham, it must have been
a considerable village in 854.
Events till tlte death of James I. — In 1093 the
castle was the refuge of the widow and children of
Malcolm Canmore, at the period of his being slain;
and was besieged by Donald Pane, the brother of
Canmore, and the usurper of his throne, with the
view of seizing the heir to the crown. In the reign
of David I. the town, though consisting of thatched
and mean houses, had grown to be one of the most
important in Scotland, and appears to have been for
some time erected into a burgh. David I., in his
charter to the canons of the abbey of Holyrood, gave
liberty to construct the burgh of Canongate, and
recognised the previous existence of the church of
St. Cuthbert's. William the Lion made Edinburgh
castle his frequent residence, and materially pro-
moted the progress of the town. But having been
made prisoner during a hostile incursion into Eng-
land, he surrendered it, in 1174, to Henry II., and
did not regain it till his marriage, in 1186, with
Ermengard the English princess, who brought it as
a dower. In 1215 Edinburgh was the scene of the
first parliament of Alexander II., and, in 1239, of a
provincial synod held by Cardinal L'Aleran, legate
of Pope Gregory IX. Alexander III. resided in the
castle, and made it the depository of the regalia
and the archives; and he suffered in it a sort of in-
vasion from the Earl of Dunbar, at the bead of a
party attached to the English interests, who ex-
pelled the patriot nobility, and dictated terms to
the King.
The wars of the succession which followed the
death of the Maid of Norway, grandchild to Alex-
ander, involved Edinburgh in serious disasters. In
1291 Edward I., as the acknowledged superior of
Scotland, received a surrender of the castle, and
next year he received the fealty of the abbot of
Holyrood. The castle having been withdrawn from
him, he captured it, in 1294, after the battle of
Dunbar; and, in 1296, he received the fealty of the
magistrates and inhabitants of the burgh. In 1313
the castle was re-captured by Sir Thomas Randolph,
Earl of Moray; and it was afterwards stripped of its
fortifications by Robert Bruce. In 1322 the abbey
of Holyrood was plundered by the army of Edward
II.; in 1326 it was the scene of one of the parlia-
ments of Robert Bruce; and, in 1328, it accommo-
dated the celebrated parliament in which the repre-
sentatives of burghs were first admitted among the
seats, and which confirmed the treaty of Edward
III. acknowledging the independence of Scotland.
In 1334 the usurper and vassal-prince, Edward
Baliol, held a parliament in Holyrood, and agreed
to surrender to Edward III. the castle, town, and
county of Edinburgh. In 1336 Guy, Count of
Namur, approaching the town with an army in the
service of the English king, the Earl of Moray en-
countered him on the Borough moor, drove his
forces in headlong confusion into Edinburgh, pent
up a portion of them to slaughter in the narrow
EDINBURGH.
574
EDINBURGH.
lane of St. Mary's-wynd, and chased the rest to a
precarious and temporary retreat on the bare rock
of the castle. In 1337 Edward III. rebuilt the
castle, and left it in charge of a strong' garrison. In
1341, by means of as expert a stratagem as a fertile
imagination could have invented, or a brave heart
carried into execution, Sir William Douglas, the
black knight of Liddesdale, recovered the castle to
the patriots, and greatly contributed by the event
to the expulsion of the English from Scotland.
The hostile incursions of the English being sus-
pended, Edinburgh grew into more consideration.
Robert Bruce had already begtowed on the burgh
the harbour and mills of Leith. During the reign
of David II. it was the seat of numerous parlia-
ments, the source of frequent issues of coin, and con-
fessedly the chief town, though not yet the actual
capital, of Scotland. During the reign of Robert
II., in 1384, a company of French knights having
arrived in the town to aid the arbitrary schemes of
the King, the church of St. Giles was occupied as
the scene of deliberation respecting a predatory
warfare on the borders. Edinburgh, then the royal
residence, was called by Froissart, who accompanied
the French knights, the Paris of Scotland, and de-
scribed as consisting of 4,000 houses, so poor that
they could not afford the knights due accommoda-
tion. In 1385 Richard II. making an excursion
into Scotland, gave the church of St. Giles, the
abbey of Holyrood, and the whole town to the
flames; and, after looking on for five days in venge-
ful triumph, left all in ashes except the castle.
John Stewart, Earl of Carrick, who acted as the
King's lieutenant, and who soon after succeeded to
the throne under the name of Robert III., now
granted permission to the citizens to raise habita-
tions within shelter of the castle-walls. In 1400
the castle was repeatedly assaulted by Henry IV.,
but successfully defended by the Duke of Rothesay,
the heir apparent to the Scottish crown. In 1402
a parliament was held in Edinburgh to inquire into
the assassination of the Duke of Rothesay. While
James I. was a prisoner in England, Edinburgh
partook of the desolation which swept generally
over the country. In 1416 the castle was taken
by Archibald, fourth Earl of Douglas, but restored
in 1418; and, in 1423, when a ransom was proposed
to be given for the King's release, the town had
advanced so far in prosperity as to be able to con-
tribute to the object 50,000 merks of English
money. After the King's return, in 1424, he often
honoured Edinburgh with his residence; and in
1429, he received, before the high altar of the church
of Holyrood, the abject submission of Alexander,
the rebellious Lord of the Isles. In 1430 the Queen
was delivered of twins, one of them the future
James II., in the abbey of Holyrood. In 1431 the
town was scourged with pestilence; and, in 1436,
it was the scene of the last parliament of James I.
The reign of James II — On the murder of James
I., in 1436-7, Edinburgh became, in every sense,
the metropolis of Scotland. From the reign of
David II. it had, in all public transactions, held the
place of primary burgh, and had been frequently the
seat of parliaments and the royal abode; but it
shared its honours with other towns, and wanted in
point of favour what it might have justly claimed
in point of paramount importance and power. Now,
however, its title to entire metropolitan dignity be-
came fully recognised. Neither Perth, Stirling, nor
anv other resort of the King and court possessing
sufficient means to protect the royal family from the
murderous attacks of the ferocious nobles, James
II. — then only 7 years of age — fled or was conveyed,
after the assassination of his father, to Edinburgh
castle ; and, in the same year was crowned and
held his first parliament in the abbey of Holyrood,
and set up in the city the machinery of his govern-
ment. During the years 1438, 1439, and 1440, the
castle was the scene of frequent contests and in-
trigues respecting the keeping of the King's person.
In 1444 Crichton, the ablest man in Scotland, hav-
ing, as the victim of faction, been dismissed from
the high office of chancellor, provisioned the castle
and gave defiance to Douglas of Balveny, the royal
favourite. Next year, his estates having been
escheated by a parliament held in the city, and
partly laid waste by military emissaries of the
favourite, Crichton sallied from the castle, and, after
inflicting severe retaliation, returned within its
walls. Being now besieged by the King in person,
he defended himself with such skill and resolution
that the castle was gladly accepted from him, in
1445-6, on terms of capitulation, which involved his
restoration to his office and to the royal favour.
During these troubles, and up to 1456, James II.
lavished upon the city such grants and immunities
as made it much more indebted for its prosperity to
him than to any other monarch. Among other
favours, were permission to fortify the town with a
wall, and levy a tax to defray the cost, — exemption
of burgesses from the payment of any duties except
a petty custom, — a grant of all the vale between
Craigend gate on the east, and the highway leading
to Leith on the west, — and a grant of the ' haven
silver ' and customs on ships entering the roadstead
and harbour of Leith. In 1449 Mary of Gueldres,
after having been espoused by proxy to James II.
at Gueldres, was married to him in person, and
pompously crowned, in the abbey of Holyrood. In
1460 James II. having been killed by the bursting
of a cannon at the siege of Roxburgh castle, was
brought a corpse to the city he had enriched with
his munificence, and interred on the spot where he
had received his crown. His Queen, who had imi-
tated his taste in raising the dignity of the'metro-
polis, and had founded and endowed Trinity church
and hospital, died three years after him, and was
laid in the church which she had reared.
The reign of James III. — James III., through-
out his inefficient reign, conferred on Edinburgh
the advantages of his residence and of several im-
munities. In 1461 Henry VI., after his defeat at
Towton, sought refuge in Scotland, and was hon-
ourably entertained for a time in the capital. In
1469 the Princess Margaret of Denmark was mar-
ried to the King, and crowned, amid splendid
pageantry, in the abbey of Holyrood. In 1475 the
city was so desolated with pestilence that parlia-
ment, though summoned, failed to assemble. In
1477, James III. gave to the city a charter minute,
and now very curious, establishing the sites of its
markets. In 1478 began those intrigues at Edin-
burgh of the King's brother, the Duke of Albany,
to supplant him in the throne, which issued in ex-
tensive disasters to the town and country, and
eventually terminated in the King's death. Albany,
having been imprisoned in the castle, effected his
escape to France; and passing thence, in 1482, into
England, bargained with Edward IV. to hold the
crown of Scotland under him, as superior of the
realm. The Duke of Gloucester, deputed by the
English king, marched on Edinburgh; and meeting
no resistance, was induced by Albany to spare the
town from a destruction with which he had men-
aced it, " only taking such presents," saith Hall,
"as the merchants genteelly offered him." The
English Garter King-at-arms now ascended the
platform of the cross, and summoned the Scottish
king, who had taken refuge in the castle, to perform
EDINBUEGH.
575
EDINBUEGH.
all he had promised to Edward IV., and to pardon
Albany. The citizens, evincing both their wealth
and their patriotism, agreed to repay to the English
king certain sums which he had advanced in con-
sideration of a concerted marriage hetween his
daughter and James' son; and, the Duke of Glou-
cester having been wiled away by the permanent
cession of the town of Berwick, and the Duke of
Albany having been pardoned by a formal act of for-
giveness, the provost and citizens, assisted by the
latter, processed to the castle to escort the King
from his durance. James III. and Albany mutually
embraced, and then rode together to Holyrood-house,
amid the tumultuous joy of a deluded people; and
the King bestowed on the inhabitants some munifi-
cent expressions of his gratitude for their patriotism
in the season of his distress. At the close of 1482
Albany, immediately after having been received
into favour, and injudiciously constituted Lieuten-
ant-general of the realm, intrigued once more
against the King. James III., however, by retir-
ing into the castle, and rousing the citizens, disap-
pointed his purposes of treason. Edinburgh, by its
loyalty to the sovereign, and especially by its
prompt performance of all its stipulations with
England, obtained great praise, and, in reference to
the ample resources which it evinced itself to pos-
sess, was called by the Continuator of the Annals
of Croyland " ditissimum oppidum." Early in 1488
the King, hard pressed by a powerful combination
of insurgents, and obliged to leave the city and flee
to the north, deposited his treasure and valuable
effects in the castle, and supplied it with ordnance
and provisions to sustain a siege ; but he was assas-
sinated in the same year, and proved to have been
only heaping up store for his murderers.
The reign of James IV. — Late in 14S8, the first
parliament of James IV. assembled in Edinburgh,
amid the guilty triumphs of rebellious faction; and
for sqjne time succeeding the early part of the next
year, the castle, town, and shire were under the
domination of Patrick, Earl of Bothwell. As James
IV. grew up in years, he frequently invited the
knights of every country to tournaments at Edin-
burgh, and took great delight in rendering the city
a busy scene of magnificent entertainments. In
1503 the King was, with gorgeous parade and pomp,
married, at Holyrood-house, to Lady Margaret, the
eldest daughter of Henry VII. In 1508 the print-
ing-press was introduced to Edinburgh by Chap-
man and Millar, under a royal charter; and it pro-
duced curious specimens, some of which are still
preserved in the Advocates' library. About the
same time, the King, continuing to reside in the
capital, entertained the French ambassador at great
expense, and with coarse profusion. In 1513, while
a areadful plague had broken out and was desolat-
ing Edinburgh, James, preparing for a hapless war,
busied himself in inspecting his artillery in the
castle and the outfit of his navy at Newhaven ; and,
having summoned the whole array of his kingdom
to assemble on the Borough-moor, he marched
thence to his disastrous defeat and violent death
on the field of Flodden.
Tlie reign of James Y. — The magistrates and
numerous burgesses of Edinburgh having followed
the late King in his fatal expedition, drew upon the
city apprehensions of fearful retaliation. All men
able to bear arms were instantly ordered to stand,
if necessaiy, to the defence of the walls ; and other
vigorous measures were adopted to maintain a stern
resistance. But the privy-council withdrew for
some months to Stirling; and there James V. was
crowned. Early in 1514 the magistrates of Edin-
burgh, fearful of disasters with which the city
seemed menaced, raised a permanent city-guard of
24 men, levied £500 Scots for the extending of the
fortifications and the purchase of artillery, and or-
dered the erection of the second or southern wall.
In 1515 the putative Duke of Albany, to whom all
eyes were turned for giving stability to the fragile
and shattered government, and vigour to the Scot-
tish arms, was received in Edinburgh with unwonted
magnificence and processional demonstrations of
feeling; and he proclaimed at the cross the peace
for Scotland which France had negociated with
England. In the same year a parliament which
assembled in the city, appointed him protector and
governor of Scotland during the minority of the
infant King. But Albany, though residing at
Holyrood-house, and wielding all the power of
royalty, thought himself insecure unless he should
obtain command of the young King and his mother's
persons, who had retired to the castle. Forcible
measures were adopted which first drove the Queen
to take flight with the young Prince to Stirling, —
next compelled her to yield up the fortress of that
town, and return to Edinburgh castle, — and next
converted the latter place into a state-prison for the
infant monarch. In the meantime, the town became
the scene of frequent tumults and copious bloodshed,
from contentions among the nobles, and from strifes
for superiority in the magistracy. On one occasion,
upwards of 200 men were slain on the streets in a
melee, popularly commemorated under the odd name
of " Cleanse the causeway," between the Hamiltons
and the Douglases. On another occasion, there was
an encounter with similar results, between the par-
tisans of the Earls of Huntly and Moray, and those
of Lords Eothes and Lindsay. These facts, and
others of kindred character which occurred, evince
that, under the regency of Albany, the metropolis
enjoyed neither the amenity of civilized manners,
nor the most ordinary protection of common law.
In 1519 and 1520, while Albany was absent in
France, the city lay prostrate beneath the twofold
scourge of devastation by the plague, and of the
ascendency of lawless violence maintained with the
aid of an armed force from the borders. In 1522,
Albany having returned from France, a parliament
held in the city authorised the removal of the young
King from the eastle to Stirling, but was too feeble
to reform the popular profligacy of manners, or to
strengthen the weakness of the laws. At the close
of 1523, Albany met the parliament at Edinburgh
for the last time; and in May 1524, he departed for-
ever from Holyrood-house to France, leaving the
Scottish government and the police of the metro-
polis in a state of utter confusion.
In July 1524, the Queen brought James V., now
in his 13th year, from Stirling to Edinburgh, and
caused proclamation to be made that he had as-
sumed the government. In November of this same
year, while parliament was sitting, the Earl of
Angus, who had been married to the Queen, broke
into Edinburgh, with several other chiefs and 400
armed followers ; and, having vaunted or proclaimed
themselves at the cross to be good subjects, went to
the council of state, and demanded that the Queen
should be deprived of the guardianship of the in-
fant King. The castle immediately fired upon the
town, and killed several innocent persons; and
Angus, menaced, along with his fellow-insurgents,
by a body of hackbutters who had been called out
against him, and having received a mandate from
the King to retire from the city, withdrew to Dal-
keith. Early in 1525, a coalition and division of
patronage having been effected between the Queen
and her opponents, the young King, who had taken
refuge in the castle, removed his residen Be to Holy-
EDINBURGH.
576
EDINBURGH.
rood-house, and afterwards went in person to meet
his parliament in the tolbooth, his crown being
borne before him by Angus. In 1525, Angus ac-
quired such an ascendency as, while he dictated to
the whole kingdom, enabled him to subject the
metropolis to the will, and impoverish it for the
pampering of his creatures; and, from that date till
his final disgrace and forfeiture in 1528, he oc-
casioned continual disturbances and tumultuous
movements both in Edinburgh and throughout the
countiy, in opposing first the Queen and next the
Monarch.
About 1528, additional excitements arose in the
city from the private diffusion of the principles of
the Reformation. In May 1532, after various esta-
blishments for the administration of equity had
been tried and rejected, the college of justice, or
system of national law-courts the same in limine
which exists at present, was founded. This event
was the greatest in intrinsic importance which had
yet graced the annals of Edinburgh, and immediately
raised the dignity and influence of the city, and oc-
casioned it to become the resort of many families
from among the best portion of the community who
possessed a competency of worldly wealth. In the
same year, and during two or three years following,
the magistrates, and even the parliament, adopted
measures to remove nuisances which hitherto had
defiled or obstructed the streets, and diffused putri-
dity among the lanes, and occasioned the lampoon-
ings of wit and the severities of satire; and they
now ordered the thoroughfares to be paved, lantherns
to be hung out at night, the meal-market to be re-
moved from High-street to " some honest place,"
where it would be no obstruction, and a substantial
wall to be built from Netherbow to Trinity College
church. In August 1534, Norman Gourlay and
David Straiton were tried and condemned, at Holy-
rood-house, for the heresy of the Protestant faith,
and executed at Greenside. In 1537, Magdalene,
the first consort of James V., arrived from France at
Leith, made a triumphal entrance into Edinburgh
amid magnificent processions and joyous acclaims,
and, in forty days, was carried a corpse to the royal
tomb in Holyrood abbey. In July 1538, Mary of
Guise, James V.'s second wife, entered Edinburgh
amid similar greetings to those which had been ac-
corded to her predecessor, and was treated by the
citizens with rich presents, and " with farces and
plays." At the close of 1542, James V., having
died at Falkland, was buried in Holyrood by the
side of his first wife.
The reign of Mary. — The regents Arran and Bea-
ton having rejected some ambitious schemes of
Henry VIII. respecting the person of their infant
Queen Mary, who was only a week old at her
father's death, the Earl of Hertford arrived in the
Forth with a numerous fleet and army, and, hesides
inflicting numerous devastations on other towns and
the country, set fire to Edinburgh, burnt the abbey
and palace of Holyrood, and made an unsuccessful
attempt upon the castle. In 1548, the city,
after being again menaced by an English force,
was garrisoned by part of a French reinforcement
of 6,000 men under D'Esse. In 1551, the queen-
dowager, after conveying her infant-daughter to
France, was received, on her return to Edinburgh,
with distinguished honours; and in 1554, having
been constituted regent of the kingdom, she en-
couraged plays in the city, and cajoled the magis-
trates to defray much of the expense. In October
1555, John Knox arrived in the city, and speedily
occasioned a shifting of its scenes. Next year a
concourse of people assembled in and around Black-
friars' church, to protect him from the hostile pro-
ceedings of an ecclesiastical judicatory. Early in
1557, Knox having gone to Geneva, Harlow and
Willock, two other reformers, arrived and success-
fully preached their doctrines in Edinburgh and
Leith. In December of the same year, a few nobles
signed the first covenant in Edinburgh, and were
the germ of " the Congregation." In June 1558, an
invasion from England being apprehended, the bur-
gesses of Edinburgh voluntarily agreed to maintain
upwards of 700 armed men for the defence of the
city. Next month the reformers and the queen-
regent came to an open rupture. On the anniver-
sary of St. Giles, when the priests carried an effigy
of the patron saint with great processional pomp
along the streets, the populace flamed forth in in-
dignation, dispersed the ecclesiastics, and tore the
effigy in pieces. In 1559, Knox having returned from
Geneva, and the army of the congregation approach-
ing the town from the north, the magistrates ordered
all the gates except two to be shut, and these two
to be guarded ; and they sent commissioners to meet
the reformers at Linlithgow, and treat with them ;
and placed a guard of sixty men to protect St. Giles'
church. When the army of the congregation en-
tered Edinburgh, they took possession of the mint,
and of the offices of government; but found the
work of upsetting popish altars, destroying the
paraphernalia of popish ceremonies, and converting
monasteries into private dwellings, sufficiently ac-
complished by the populace.
Open hostilities now occurred in regular warfare
between the troops of the reformed, and the troops
of the queen-regent. Leith, which was in a fortified
condition, was the head-quarters of the Eomish or
government party, who were aided by the opportune
arrival of an auxiliary force from France ; Edin-
burgh was the head-quarters of the reformed party,
and entirely in their possession ; and the fine plain
which stretches between the Calton-hill and Leith,
was the scene of frequent skirmishes and resolute
onslaughts. The irregular troops of the reformed
could ill cope with the well-disciplined auxiliaries
from France; but, eventually aided by a force from
Elizabeth of England, they succeeded, about the
middle of 1560, to expel the queen-regent's forces
from the kingdom, to dismantle Leith, and to remove
every hinderance to the ascendency and the civil
establishment of the principles for which they con-
tended. Edinburgh, now in undisputed possession
of the reformers, and entirely freed from the influ-
ences which had hitherto swayed it, underwent an
almost entire change of moral aspect, yet did not
pass through the transition without some ebullitions
of popular feeling, and some riotous movements on
the part of small portions of its people. Women
were prohibited from keeping taverns ; the market-
day was changed from Sunday to Saturday and Mon-
day; measures were adopted for the suppression of
immorality ; the reformed religion was introduced to
all the places of worship, and enforced on the atten-
tion of the whole population ; and on the 20th De-
cember, 1560, the first general assembly of the
Kirk assembled under the local sanction of the ma-
gistrates.
In August 1561, Mary, the young Queen, arrived
at Leith from France; and she made a public entry
into Edinburgh amid clamorous and showy demon-
strations both of welcome to her person, and of
caution against interference with the recent changes
in religion. Splendid dresses were prepared; the
public streets were ornamented ; and as she issued
from the castle, where she dined, a boy descended,
as if from a cloud, and delivered to her a bible, a
psalter, the keys of the castle gates, and some verses
containing " terrible significations of the vengeance
EDINBURGH.
577
EDINBURGH.
of God upon idolaters." Having arranged her gov-
ernment at Holyrood-liouse, she set out on a pro-
gress to visit her principal towns throughout the
country, and left the metropolis, as she found it,
wholly under the power of the reformers. In June
1562, the town-council ordered the figure of St.
Giles to be displaced from the banner of the city,
and substituted by the thistle ; and ordained that no
one should be eligible to any civic office who was
not of the reformed faith. In May 1563, the Queen,
dressed in her robes and wearing her crown, met her
parliament in the capital, and concurred in an act of
oblivion as to the proceedings of the Lords of the
Congregation. Edinburgh, with Knox for its min-
ister, and the general assembly for its most influen-
tial court, now gave tone to the whole country, and
lifted the spirit of religious reform up to a point of
high dominance which was sufficiently menacing to
the adherents of popery, and little careful of pleas-
ing the monarch.
On the 28th July, 1565, Lord Darnley was pro-
claimed King at the market-cross; and at 5 o'clock
on the following morning was married to the Queen
within the chapel of Holyrood. On the 9th March,
1566, David Rizzio was assassinated in the Queen's
presence in her supper-apartment at Holyrood; and
on the 19th June of the same year, she was delivered,
in a small room in the castle, of her son James. On
the 10th February, 1567, Darnley, then lying in a
convalescent state in the house of Kirk of Field,
was blown up with gunpowder; and on the 15th
May following, Bothwell, who was believed to have
been the author of Darnley's murder, and who had
repudiated his wife, was married to the Queen in
Holyrood, by Adam Bothwell, bishop of Orkney.
On the 6th of June, a smouldering popular indigna-
tion having begun to belch up in flames, Mary and
her husband fled from the city, pursued by 800
horsemen. On the 11th, the associated insurgents,
amounting to 3,000 men, marched upon Edinburgh,
and though the gates were shut against them, easily
entered, and took possession of the seat and the
powers of government. On the 14th, she was
brought from Carberry-hill to Edinburgh, and con-
ducted through the streets, amid popular insults, to
the house of Sir Simon Preston, the proTOst ; and next
clay, she was sent off a prisoner to Lochleven castle.
Her valuables within Holyrood-house were seized ;
her plate sent to the mint to be converted into coin;
and her chapel in Holyrood spoiled of its furniture
and ornaments, and generally demolished. The
last of these acts, however, was chargeable, not on
the body 0i the successful insurgent chiefs, but only
on the Earl of Glencairn.
Tlie reign of James VI. — A government was now
formed in the name of James VI., the infant son of
Mary; and on the 22d of August, 1567, the Earl of
Moray was proclaimed, at the cross of Edinburgh,
the regent of the kingdom. At the coronation of
the infant King in the church of Stirling, three of
the magistrates of Edinburgh attended to represent
the city. In 1568, when the nation was violently
excited by Mary's escape from her imprisonment
and the brief civil war which followed, the metro-
polis was in arms to repress insurrection, and was,
at the same time, desolated with pestilence. On
intelligence of the regent Moray's assassination in
January 1569-70, at Linlithgow, the city was thrown
into great confusion, and put under a strong guard
night and day ; and the Lords of the court of session
were with difficulty dissuaded from abandoning it as
too tumultuous a scene to be the seat of their court.
The chiefs of the Queen's party marched upon
Edinburgh from Linlithgow, and were received
within the walls by Kirkcaldy, the governor of the
castle, the provost of the town, and one of the ablest
soldiers of the period. Kirkcaldy ordered all who
opposed the Queen to leave the town within six !
hours, seized the arms of the citizens, planted a
battery on the tower of St. Giles', and repaired the
walls and strengthened the gates of the city. A
war now commenced within the limits of the
metropolis and its suburbs, the miseries of which
did not soon come to an end. In May 1571, two
parliaments sat in the harassed city, — the one on
the Queen's side, in the Tolhooth, — the other, on
the King's side, in the Canongate. While the two
legislatures fulminated forfeitures at each other,
their respective partizans fought frequent skirmishes
in the neighbourhood and the streets. The castle
was kept for the Queen, with great superiority of
advantage; and Holyrood-house was retained for
the Kin g by the regent Lennox. A small army,
sent from Berwick by Elizabeth, eventually crushed
the Queen's party, and, on the 29th May, 1573,
forced the castle to capitulate. Kirkcaldy and his
brother, though they surrendered on the understand-
ing of being favourably treated, were hanged at the
cross. The quick succession of four regents, who
fell amidst the furies of civil war, neither quieted
the nation nor brought peace to the metropolis.
At length, in March 1577-8, James VI. himself
came upon the unsettled stage. Having summoned
a parliament to meet in Edinburgh, and resolved to
remove his residence from Stirling, he made a mag-
nificent entry into the metropolis on the 17th Octo-
ber, 1579, and passed to the palace of Holyrood, with
a cavalcade of 2,000 horse. In December 1580, the
Earl of Morton was called to account by the privy
council for his many crimes, and, in particular, for
being accessary to the murder of Damley. He was
first warded in Holyrood, next sent to the castle,
next removed under a strong guard to Dumbarton,
and eventually brought back to Edinburgh, and
guillotined with the infamous instrument called
"the Maiden," which he himself, it is believed, in-
troduced to tlie country, and which afterwards drank
the blood of patriots and martyrs. When the King's
provocation of his reformed subjects by his attempted
extensions of the royal prerogative, led, in 1582, to
his capture in the raid of Kuthven, the conspirators
brought him to Holyrood-house, and demanded of
the magistrates a body of hackbutters to guard him
in tlie palace. In January 1583 two ambassadors
arrived from France to solicit his freedom. The King
ordered the magistrates to entertain them with a
banquet. But the ministers of the city appointed
the day of feasting to be a day of fasting, and occu-
pied the whole of it in successive religious services
in St. Giles', in the course of which they used lan-
guage less measured than the taste of a later age
would approve, respecting all the parties connected
with the banquet. The King, having freed himself
from thraldom, established a guard of forty gentle
men on horseback for the protection of his person,
and made adequate provision for the governor of the
castle. Having arrived, in 1587, at the legal age
of twenty-one, he made a royal banquet in Holyrood-
house for reconciling his factious nobles; and, with
puerile conceit, made irascible men walk hand in
hand to the cross, and there partake a collation of
wine and sweetmeats provided by the magistrates,
and pledge one another in the juice of the grape to
mutual forgiveness and future amity.
When intelligence arrived in August 1588, of the
approach of the Spanish Armada, the magistrates
commanded the citizens to provide themselves with
arms in order to guard the coast, and raised a body
of 300 men to defend the city. James was in the
practice of ordering the magistrates to entertain his
2 o
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578
EDINBUEGH.
friends; and, by draining their coffers with the costs
of banquets, he brought the metropolis into a less
opulent condition than had graced it during several
preceding reigns ; and now, in the prospect of his
marriage with the princess Anne of Denmark, he
commanded the magistrates to find suitable accom-
modation and entertainment for the royal bride,
from the time of her arrival at Leith till Holyrood-
house could be duly fitted out for her reception.
The magistrates paid 5,000 merks to be excused ;
and afterwards, when the bride was driven back by
adverse winds, and when James himself, with more
enterprise than he was supposed to possess, deter-
mined to cross the ocean and convey her home, they
provided him at enormous cost, with a beautiful and
commodious ship for the voyage. In May 1590 the
royal pair arrived at Leith, and were received in
Edinburgh with acclamations of welcome; and six
days after their arrival the Queen was crowned in
Holyrood. In December 1590 the Earl of Bothwell
having broken into the palace at the hour of supper,
and laboured by fire and demolition to overcome ob-
structions in his way to the King's apartment, the
citizens ran to the rescue, forced Bothwell to flee,
and captured eight of his followers, who were exe-
cuted on the morrow. In September 1593 James
vainly renewed attempts, which he had formerly
made, to dictate to the city in the choice of its coun-
cil and magistrates ; and in November he even issued
a proclamation, forbidding any person to enter Edin-
burgh without his leave. In February 1594, when
the Queen was delivered of Prince Henry at Stirling,
the town-council of Edinburgh presented the King
with ten tuns of wine, and sent 100 citizens, richly
accoutred, to attend the baptism; and next year,
when Bothwell continued to raise treasonous tu-
mults, they appointed the sovereign a body-guard of
fifty citizens. In September 1595 the boys of the
High school broke into rebellion; and one of them
fired a pistol from the school-house, and shot one of
the magistrates who had been summoned to reduce
them to order. In August 1596, when the princess
Elizabeth was born, the magistrates were invited to
the baptism in Holyrood-house ; and they made a
promise of 10,000 merks to be paid to the princess
on the day of her marriage, — a promise which not
only was fulfilled, but raised to 15,000 merks.
- In December 1596, the clergy and citizens being
irritated and alarmed, at what they believed to be
menacing interferences of the King with religious
liberty, a serious tumult broke out in the city, and
rolled along toward the town-house to attack the
King and his council, who sat in consultation. The
provost and magistrates opportunely came upon
the theatre, and, by skilful management, assuaged
the storm. James fled from the city, issued a pro-
clamation which painted in dark colours the objects
of the uproarious but harmless tumult, and sent a
charge to the magistrates to arrest the ministers,
and, in consequence, obliged the latter to flee from
the country. The privy-council also declared the
tumult to have been traitorous ; the several judi-
catories were removed to Leith ; and the court of
session was directed to sit at Perth after January
1597. The town-council, as well as the inhabitants,
were now completely alarmed, and sent a deputation
of citizens to Linlithgow, to make unqualified sub-
missions, and to sue for pardon. James made a
public entry into the city with great ceremony, and,
m March 1597 — moved partly by the people's tears
and 30,000 merks of their money, and partly by the
interposition of Elizabeth of England — formally
pardoned the tumult, and drank with the provost
and magistrates in token of reconciliation. In
1599 the King came once more into collision with
the ministers of Edinburgh, he having invited to
the city a company of English players, and the
presbytery denouncing histrionic performances as
positively sinful. This company of actors was the
first who appeared on a Scottish stage after the
Reformation, and is supposed to have included
Shakspeare. In 1600 Eobert Bruce, the favourite
minister of the city, and four of his clerical brethren,
were banished by proclamation at the cross, and
forbidden, on pain of death, to preach or to come
within 10 miles of the King's residence, for the
crime of being sceptical as to the reality of the
Gowrie conspiracy ; and the dead bodies of the Earl
of Gowrie and his brother were brought from Perth
to Edinburgh, and hung up at the market-cross as
the bodies of traitors.
James having succeeded to the crown of England
by the demise of Elizabeth, on the 24th March, 1603,
many persons hastened from London to Edinburgh
with the welcome news. On the 31st March the
nobility and the Lyon King-at-arms proclaimed the
event at the cross. On the Sabbath previous to his
departure for England, James attended public wor-
ship in St. Giles', and, at the close of the sermon,
delivered a formal valedictory address. At this
period, and during some subsequent years, Edin-
burgh, in common with other Scottish towns,
severely suffered by frequent visitations of plague.
In 1608 James empowered the magistrates to wear
gowns, and to have a sword of state carried before
them in their processions. In 1616 the King, in
fulfilment of a promise made at his departure, paid
a visit to Edinburgh. Arriving at the West Port,
he was received by the magistrates in their robes,
and some citizens in velvet habits ; and was treated
to an oration by the town-clerk, abounding in the
most fulsome and rhapsodical flattery. The citizens
afterwards entertained him with a sumptuous ban-
quet, and presented him with 10,000 merks of double
golden angels, in a silver bason. In June 1617
James convened his 22d parliament in Edinburgh,
and sanctioned, or rather instigated, its passing de-
crees for the resuscitation of prelacy, and the im-
proved support of the castle. After presiding at a
scholastic disputation of the professors of the uni-
versity, he departed in September 1617 for London.
News of his death, in March, 1625, having arrived,
the ministers of the city praised him in funeral ser-
mons, as a most peaceable and religious prince.
The reign of Clmrles I.— On the 31st March, 1625,
Charles I. was proclaimed at the cross ; and the
town-council agreed to advance to him the assess-
ment of the city, and to contribute to the mainten-
ance of 10,000 men; and they, at the same time,
provided for the city-guard, and for the discipline of
all the citizens. On the 12th June, 1633, Charles
visited Edinburgh, to be crowned King of Scotland.
He was received at the West Port by the magistrates
in red furred gowns, and 60 councillors in velvet
dresses; and conducted along the streets with a dis-
play of pageantry more gorgeous than had graced
the public entry of his father, and indicating an in-
crease in civic wealth. On the 18th he was crowned
in the abbey church of Holyrood with unwonted
splendour; and on the 20th he assembled his first
Scottish parliament, mainly for the purpose, as woidd
appear, of carrying out his projects in favour of
prelacy, and the introduction of a liturgy. By the
acts of this parliament, and by the erection of the
bishopric of Edinburgh, his brief residence, though
hailed at the moment with demonstrations of delight,
ignited a smouldering, far-spreading, fierce fire of
discontent. Scarcely had he returned to London
when the hidden fire bnrst forth into a blaze. When
the liturgy, which was chiefly copied from that of
F=
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England, was read in St. Giles', a tumult ensued.
In October 1637 a great concourse of persons of
every rank resorted to Edinburgh to avow their dis-
content, and declare their opposition. A proclama-
tion, commanding them to disperse, only produced
a new tumult. The withdrawal of the privy-council
and the court of session to Linlithgow was followed
by increased uproar and confusion. During 1638
discontent was animated into organized insurrection.
A convocation assembled in Edinburgh to oppose
the liturgy, and adopted the strong measure of re-
newing the covenant.
The magistrates now ordered the citizens to pre-
pare for war; and the Covenanters, on their side,
drew to arms. On the 22d September proclamation
was made — but at too late a date, and in too ex-
acerbated a condition of the popular feeling — that
the liturgy was abandoned. In December the
Covenanters beleagured the castle, and were aided
by the town-council with a force of 500 men, and a
subsidy of £50,000 Scotch. But a pacification tak-
ing place in May 1639, at Berwick, the castle was
delivered to the Marquis of Hamilton as the King's
officer. A parliament which sat in Edinburgh in
December 1639, broke up amid mutual criminations
of unconstitutional conduct. In 1640 fresh prepara-
tions were begun for determined war. The magis-
trates appointed a night-guard, exercised the citizens
in arms, and raised fortifications to defend the town
against the castle. Bnthven, the governor of the
castle, fired upon the city, but being invested by
Lesley, the general of the Covenanters, was forced
to surrender. The treaty of Eipon put an end to
hostilities. In August 1641 Charles revisited Edin-
burgh, and pardoned and conciliated the insurgents.
Having been well-received by the magistrates, and
sumptuously entertained at the cost of £12,000
Scotch, he departed in November. The magistrates
still adhered to the covenant, and raised for its
support a regiment of 1,200 men, at the expense
of £60,000 Scotch. In October 1643 the solemn
league and covenant was sworn in St. Giles'. In
March 1645 a plague again desolated the city;
but happily was the last with which it has been
afflicted.
The reign of Charles II — After the execution of
Charles I. Edinburgh joined in the national engage-
ment in favour of Charles II., and undertook to con-
tribute a quota of 1,200 men. But, in lieu of the
men, the town-council afterwards offered to pay
£40,000 Scotch ; yet, in consequence of impoverish-
ment by plague and civil war, they were in so dis-
astrous a predicament that they first thought of bor-
rowing the money, and next pleaded exemption
from paying it, on the ground that it had been pro-
mised in an unlawful cause. In May 1650 the Mar-
quis of Montrose was brought a prisoner into the
city, conveyed along the streets in ignominious
parade, tried and condemned by the parliament, and
publicly executed at the cross. Having obtained
the consent of the exiled Charles II. to be their
King, the magistrates, in July 1650, proclaimed
him at the cross. Lesley, the commander of the
Scottish troops, having been subdued at Dunbar, on
the 3d September, by Cromwell, who had crossed
the Tweed and menaced the metropolis, Edinburgh
was abandoned to its own fears, and left by the
magistrates without a government. On the 7th
September Cromwell took possession of the city,
and three months later forced the castle to capitu-
late. In December 1651 the magistrates returned
and resumed the government. Commissioners from
Cromwell for ruling Scotland having arrived, in Jan-
uary 1652, at Dalkeith, the citizens of Edinburgh
were so humbled that they felt obliged to ask their
consent before proceeding to elect new magistrates.
The metropolis now enjoyed, for several years, a de-
gree of repose to which it had long been a stranger;
but it was so impoverished that scarcely a person
was able to pay a debt, — the city itself being unable
to satisfy a claim upon it for £55,000 sterling.
When intelligence arrived in 1660 of the Restora-
tion, the town-council addressed a letter to the King,
congratulating him on his recovery of the throne ;
the town-clerk made a journey to London, and pre-
sented £1,000 sterling for the royal acceptance; and
the citizens expressed their joy by partaking of a
sumptuous feast at the market-cross. Charles rati-
fied some old privileges, empowered the magistrates
to levy a new civic tax, abolished the English tri-
bunals in Scotland, and directed a parliament to
meet at Edinburgh for the adjustment of the national
affairs. Parliaments which met in January 1661.
and May 1662, abolished presbytery, condemned the
covenants, restored prelacy, and, in consequence,
incited the Covenanters to arms, and threw the
metropolis and the country into confusion. Edin-
burgh was put into a posture of defence ; the gates
were barricaded; ingress or egress was prohibited
without a passport ; the gentlemen of the neighbour-
ing territory were called in to afford their aid; and
the court of law placed its members under arms.
In December 1666 ten of the Covenanters who had
been captured in the action of Bullion-green, were
executed in Edinburgh.
During the whole period of Charles II. 's reign,
from the year 1663, the metropolis was the scene of
the trial, torture, and execution of vast numbers of
Covenanters, many of them the best and brightest
men of the age. But the tyranny which was ex
ercised, the inquisitorial proceedings which were
earned on, the martyrdoms which were perpetrated,
the demonstrations of a ferociously persecuting
spirit which were made, and the military manoeuvres
of a standing army which were practised, did not
for an hour awe the inhabitants into submission, and
scarcely succeeded in even repressing them from at-
tempting bold though hopeless deeds of insurrection.
At the execution of one Mitchell, who was concerned
in an attempt to assassinate the archbishop of St.
Andrews in the High-street, bands of women assailed
the scaffold, and made a strenuous endeavour to
effect a rescue. During 1679 the Duke of York —
the future James VII. — resided in Edinburgh, was
magnificently entertained by the magistrates, and
introduced the drama and other appliances of fa-
shionable dissipation. In 1680 the students of the
university having, in contempt, probably, of the
Duke of York's religious creed, resolved to bum the
Pope in effigy, the magistrates interposed, and a
tumult ensued. The college was now, for a time,
shut up ; and the students exiled under a prohibi-
tion not to approach within twelve miles of the
town. In May 1682 the Duke of York, after hav-
ing utterly effeminated the capital, and diffused an
idle and ruinous taste for show and extravagance,
and lured the magistrates into numerous acts of
mean servility, took his departure for London.
The reign of James VII. — Intelligence having
arrived of the demise of Charles II., in February,
1 685, a stage was erected at the cross, the militia
drawn out, and proclamation, amid pompous dis-
plays, made of the accession of James VII. On the
20th June the Earl of Argyle was brought into
Edinburgh, paraded along the streets, bound, un-
covered, and preceded by the hangman, and publicly
executed with every accompaniment of ignominy.
On the 1st of November, a letter from the King,
dispensing with the test, and indicating favour to
papists, was read at the privy-council. Early in
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580
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1686 an order, dictated by the King, was issued by
the privy-council, forbidding the booksellers of
Edinburgh to print or sell any document which re-
flected upon popery. A subsequent order authoriz-
ing the public and open celebration of mass occa-
sioned a popular tumult. A journeyman baker, who
was concerned in the tumult, having been ordered
by the privy-council to be whipped along the streets,
a mob rose to his rescue, beat the executioner, and
continued all night in riotous possession of the town.
The King's guards and soldiers from the castle were
brought out to the assistance of the town-guard,
and, firing upon the mob, killed two men and a
woman. Next day several of the rioters were
scourged amid a double file of musqueteers and
pikemen; a drummer was shot for having uttered
an expression of strong antipathy to papists ; and a
fencing-master was hanged at the cross simply for
having expressed approbation of the recent tumults,
and drunk the toast of ' Confusion to Papists.'
On the 29th of April, 1686, a parliament was con-
vened at Edinburgh, to which was read a letter from
the King proposing indulgence to the Roman
Catholics; which included among its members the
Lord-chancellor Perth, who was a Papist, and had
not taken the test required by law; and which,
though sufficiently pliant, was not so servile as the
King desired in adopting and enforcing his religious
schemes. James, persecuting and spurning the
sturdier members for their votes, did by his own
authority what the parliament refused to do, — he
took the Roman Catholics under his protection,
assigned them for the exercise of their religion the
chapel of Holyrood abbey, commanded the magis-
trates to be conservators of their privileges, and
promoted as many of them as possible to places in
the privy-council, and the offices of government.
Watson, a popish printer, was appointed by the
King the printer to the royal family, and by the
privy-council the printer of all the prognostications
in Edinburgh; and he carried through the press the
numerous books whose imprints indicate their hav-
ing been printed during the reign of James II. " in
Holyrood-house." Some minor particulars men-
tioned by Lord Fountainhall sufficiently indicate the
deep undercurrent in the direction of popery which
flowed beneath the surface of the King's public en-
actments. "On the 23d of November, 1686," says
he, " the King's yacht arrived from London, at
Leith, with the altar, vestments, images, priests,
and their apurtenants, for the popish chapel in the
abbey of Holyrood. On St. Andrew's day the
chapel was consecrated, by holy water, and a ser-
mon by Wederington. On the 8th of February,
1688, Ogstoun, the bookseller, was threatened, for
selling Archbishop Usher's sermons against the
papists, and the History of the French Persecutions;
and all the copies were taken from him; though
popish books were printed and sold. On the 22d
of March the rules of the popish college, in the
abbey of Holyrood, were published, inviting chil-
dren to be educated gratis."
But James VII. had now run his race of religious
folly, and was about to forfeit for himself and his
heirs the crowns which he had meretriciously
adorned with Romish gems. Throughout the
months of September and October, 1688, his officers
of state at Edinburgh acted as if they expected an
invasion from Holland. Throughout August and
November the court of session almost ceased to sit,
considering its functions to have ceased from the
apparent dissolution of the government. On the 3d
December the students of the university, acting as
the tools of more influential parties, burned the
Pope in effigy, and clamoured for a free parliament.
At length the Chancellor, the Earl of Perth, in
whose person rested the whole government of Scot-
land, indicated, by his flight from Edinburgh to the
Highlands, that the metropolis and the country
were freed from the caprices and the tyrannies of
the dynasty of the Stuarts.
The reign of William and Mary. — No sooner was
it known that William, Prince of Orange, had
landed, and that the regular troops were withdrawn
from Scotland, than Edinburgh was peopled with
crowds of Presbyterians pouring into it from every
part of the country, and became a scene of tumultu-
ous confusion. A mob rose, drums were beat
through the streets, and a rush was made upon
every thing identified with popery. The populace
and the students ran to the abbey of Holyrood to
demolish the chapel; but were fired upon and re-
pulsed by the guard, 1 2 of their number being killed.
Wallace, the captain of the guard, refusing, when
called upon, to surrender, another rush was made
upon his party, and terminated in the slaughter of
some, and the capture of the rest. The mob now
pillaged the abbey church and private chapel of
Holyrood, pulled down the Jesuits' college, plun-
dered and sacked the religious houses and private
dwellings of Roman Catholics, burned at the cross
the paraphernalia of the chapels for saying mass,
and made a general demolition of whatever was
popish, or connected with the ecclesiastical policy
of the dethroned monarch. Guards were now placed
throughout the city to prevent further tumults.
Nor — owing to the discretion of the Duke of Gordon,
the governor, who yet refused to resign his com-
mand— did the castle fire upon the town during the
season of violence. On the 25th December the
students paraded, with the college-mace before them,
and a musical band, to the cross, and there again
burnt the Pope in effigy, — the town-council, and the
portion of the privy-councillors who had not fled,
looking on with approbation.
The magistrates, notwithstanding their former
sycophantish submission to James, were among the
first to offer their services to the Prince of Orange;
and on the 28th December they addressed him, con-
gratulating him on his success, and assuring him
of their cheerful concurrence in preserving their re-
ligion and their liberties. On the 14th of March,
1689, a convention of Estates was held at Edin-
burgh; and declared the forfeiture of James VII.,
offered the crown of Scotland to William and Mary,
abolished prelacy, and re-established Presbyterian-
ism. On the 26th of March the magistrates of the
city gave their oath of fidelity to the Estates. On
the 11th of April William and Mary were pro-
claimed at the cross King and Queen. During the
sitting of the convention 6,000 Covenanters from
the west protected its members, and preserved the
peace of the city. Viscount Dundee, better known
as Graham of Claverhouse, prowled about the city
for a while with a small armed body of about fifty
horse; and when about to retire before the forces
which were accumulating within its walls, he
climbed up the western side of the castle-rock to a
postern now closed up, and held a conference with
the Duke of Gordon, who still maintained possession
of the fort. An alarm now arose that the castle was
about to bombard the parliament-house, and scatter
the convention; but was magnanimously quelled
within doors by the president, the Duke of Hamil-
ton, who turned the lock, and declared that members
should not depart till there was actual danger. The
adherents of the revolution were suddenly sum-
moned to the streets by beat of drum; and, in
crowding together into masses, gave the city the
appearance of hurried preparation to resist a menac-
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581
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ing attack. On the 13th of June, 1690, the last
hopes of the Jacobites having been slain at Killie-
crankie, the castle was surrendered by the Duke of
Gordon. Several Jacobite plots were at various
periods discovered in the city, but were easily
crushed.
In July 1690 the magistrates were empowered to
raise a revenue for maintaining the city-guard. An
act was soon after passed, though not without op-
position, to enable the corporation to pay its debts.
During the whole of the reign of William the city
was disgraced with the practice of torture, in nearly
as cruel a degree as under the later Stuarts. In
1698 a statute was enacted by the Scottish parlia-
ment, against erecting houses in Edinburgh of a
greater height than five stories, or of less thickness
of wall in the ground story than three feet. On
the 3d of February, 1700, a dreadful conflagration
broke out on the south side of Parliament-square,
and consumed the treasury-room, the old Royal
exchange, and extensive piles of building on the
south and east sides of the square. Early in the
same year the whole of the printers in Edinburgh,
and some other parties, were severely prosecuted
for the publication of pamphlets reflecting on the
government. As the year 1700 advanced, the mas-
sacre of Glencoe, the disregard of the Scottish
privileges at the treaty of Eyswick, and particu-
larly the opposition of the King to the recently
formed company for trading to Africa and the Indies,
and the failure of the settlement which this com-
pany attempted to establish on the isthmus of
Darien, exacerbated the people of Edinburgh and
provoked them to open violence. On the arrival of
news which were temporarily favourable respecting
the Darien settlement, a mob obliged most of the
inhabitants to illuminate, committed outrages on
the houses which were not lit up in obedience to
their dictation, secured the avenues to the city,
burned the doors of the Tolbooth and set at liberty
the victims of prosecution for libel upon govern-
ment. When news shortly after arrived that the
settlement was destroyed, and the hopes and capital
of the trading company demolished, the mob were
so furious that the ofiicers of state and the royal
commissioner to parliament fled from the city to
escape becoming victims to the popular indignation.
The reign of Anne. — Intelligence having arrived
in March, 1702, of the demise of William, Queen
Anne was proclaimed at the cross with the usual
ceremonies. In March, 1704, a large quantity
of popish paraphernalia, consisting of sacerdotal
habiliments, communion-table linen, pictures, cha-
lices, crucifixes, whipping -cords, rosaries, con-
secrated stones, relics, remissions and indulgen-
ces, were, by order of the privy-council, carried
to the cross, and there burned or otherwise de-
stroyed. In March, 1705, a vessel belonging to
the English East India company having put into
the Forth, the crew were suspected of piracy, ag-
gravated by murder, upon the crew of a Scottish
vessel in the East Indies; and — more in retaliation
of the uncompensated seizure in the Thames of a
vessel belonging to the Scottish African company,
than in due appreciation of their imputed conduct —
they were tried in Edinburgh, and condemned.
The evidence against them appearing slender, in-
tercessions were made for the royal mercy on their
behalf. But the populace were deeply enraged,
and, on the day appointed for the execution,
congregated in vast numbers round the parliament-
house, where the privy council and the magistrates
were assembled in deliberation whether and how
the victims should escape. The magistrates, aware
of the revengeful fury of the mob, assured them
that three of the criminals were ordered for
execution. But the Lord chancellor, emerging
from the privy- council to his coach, some person
shouted that the magistrates had cheated them, and
that the criminals had been reprieved. The mob
now stopped the chancellor's coach at the Tron-
church, broke its glasses, insulted and ill-treated
the chancellor, and could eventually be appeased
only by the criminals being brought out for exe-
cution.
In 1706, when the measure of the national union
came before the Scottish parliament, the inhabitants
of Edinburgh rose in insurrection against the con-
stituted authorities. Even while it was known to
them only in limine, they were under strong irrita-
tion; but when it became known in its details, they
pressed in vast crowds toward the parliament-house,
and hooted and insulted every member of parliament
who was believed to favour it. On the 23d of Oc-
tober they attacked the house of Sir Patrick John-
ston, their late provost, who was a strenuous advo-
cate for the Union, and compelled him to seek
refuge in a precipitate flight. Increasing in num-
bers and in fury, the mob scoured the streets, be-
came absolute masters of the city, and seemed as if
proceeding to shut up the gates. The commissioner
ordered a party of soldiers to take possession of the
Netherbow, posted, with the consent of the magis-
trates, a battalion of foot-guards in Parliament-
square and other suitable localities, and speedily
succeeded in quelling the riot, and restoring order.
But so deep and general was the popular rage, and
so strong the panic it had excited, that nothing less
than the whole army, encamped in the vicinity, was
deemed a force sufficient to protect the parliament
and the city. Three regiments of foot were con-
stantly on duty in the town, — a battalion of guards
protected the abbey, — and the horse-guards attended
the commissioner. Thus strongly protected, yet not
undisturbed by popular hootings and insults, the
parliament continued its deliberations on the Union,
and at length, on the 16th of January, 1707, ratified
the articles. But the members encountered severe
difficulties, submitted to remarkable privations, and
adopted devices not a little curious, in order to
authenticate by their signatures the popularly de-
tested contract, first retiring in small numbers to a
summer-house behind the Earl of Moray's house in
the Canongate; next, when discovered and scared
away by the mob, taking refuge, under the darkness
of night, in an obscure cellar in the High-street;
and then, before they could be discovered by per-
sons early a-foot in the morning, taking a precipi-
tate leave of the city, and starting off for London.
Hffects of the Legislative Union. — From the con-
summation of the Union on the 1st of May, 1707,
Edinburgh, during half-a-century, lay prostrate
and stunned under the blow which had been in-
flicted on her importance, stripped of the jewels
and ornamented raimentings of her once courtly
character, and pouring on the dust, unlamented by
her nobles, the crimson hearts'-blood of her me-
tropolitan pride. The city — as to nearly every
thing which had rendered it opulent and illustrious
— was utterly forsaken, and appeared to have lost
all its attractions; and a thick gloom, such as had
never before darkened its sky, hung over the dwell-
ings and hearts of its citizens. But eventually the
Union, the occasion of temporary and afflicting
disasters, worked indirectly out for it an amount
and a brilliance of well-being which have, in some
respects, made it the envy and the wonder of every
other city in the world. From the date of the
Union down to the present day, only eight events
or groups of events in its history are of sufficient
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582
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importance, or so detached from the history of par-
ticular institutions, and unanticipated in the early-
portions of this article, as to require notice. These
events or groups of events are the rebellion of 1715,
the Porteous mob, the rebellion of 1745, some tumults
before and after the period of the French Revolution,
the visit of George IV., the great fires of 1824, some
demonstrations connected with the passing of the
reform bill, and the several visits of Queen Victoria
and Prince Albert.
TU Rebellion of 1715.— The rebellion of 1715
commenced with an unsuccessful attempt to capture
Edinburgh castle by surprise. Some well-concerted
measures were arranged ; but they were discovered
before the appointed hour of action, and easily dis-
concerted. The Bank of Scotland was immediately
subjected to an extraordinary demand upon its
specie, and compelled, for a short time, to suspend
payment. Fifteen hundred insurgents passed the
Forth from Fife, and marched upon Edinburgh ; but
they found it so well-prepared by the exertions of
the magistrates in fortifying it, and the presence of
a military force under the Duke of Argyle to give
them a warm reception, that they declined to at-
tack it, and filed off, first to nestle in the decayed
fort of Leith, and next to seek death and discom-
fiture in the south. The arrival, immediately after-
wards, of 6,000 Dutch troops to aid the King's
measures, prevented Edinburgh from being the
scene of any further event during the brief remain-
ing period of the rebellion.
Tlie Porteotis Mob. — In 1736 occurred the strange
tumult called the Porteous mob, famous in the city's
annals, and graphically described in the tale of the
Heart of Mid-Lothian. Two smugglers — who had
violated revenue laws recently extended from Eng-
land to Scotland, and who attracted the sympathy
rather than the reprehension of the populace — were
tried, convicted, and condemned to death. On a
Sabbath while at church, between two guard soldiers,
one of them suddenly started up, and sprung upon
the soldier at his side. The other, whose name was
Wilson, now seized both the soldiers, and held them
fast till his companion escaped ; and he, in conse-
quence, won no stinted meed of praise from the
general population of the city. On the 14th of
April, when Wilson was led out to execution in the
Grassmarket, the mob pelted the executioner and
the city-guard. John Porteous, the captain of the
guard, enraged at the attack, ordered his men to
fire. The guard, in the first instance, fired over the
heads of the mob ; but, enjoined by their angry
captain, fired next among them, killing six persons,
and dangerously wounding eleven. Porteous was
tried for murder and condemned ; but was reprieved
by the Queen-regent Caroline. An opinion having
gained general credit among the exacerbated popu-
lace that Porteous would get a second reprieve, and
even that, on the day named for his execution, he
would be adroitly transferred for safety to the castle,
a formidable conspiracy was formed with profound
secrecy, and executed with singular promptitude.
On the night preceding the day named for his ex-
ecution, a mob, disguised in dress, broke into the
jail, set at liberty all the prisoners except Porteous,
drove off some gentlemen who attempted to lure
them from violence, carried Porteous to the Grass-
market, suspended liim on a dyer's pole till life had
fled, and then dispersed with the utmost quietness
and order. Great indignation was excited at court,
and Edinburgh was menaced with a fearful retalia-
tion. The lord-provost was taken into custody, and
not admitted to bail till after three weeks of confine-
ment; and he was commanded, along with the
bailies and three lords of justiciary, to appear before
the House of Lords. A bill passed the upper house
to unfrock the provostry, to confine the provost in
close custody for a year, to abolish the city-guard,
and to destroy the city-gates; but in the lower
house this severe bill was transmuted into an order
upon the city to pay the widow of Porteous £200
a-year. Though a reward of £200 was offered for
the discovery of each person who had acted in the
conspiracy, and though it was accompanied with a
proffered pardon to any accomplice who should turn
informer, not one individual concerned in the affair
was ever brought to justice, or even traced.
The Rebellion of ilib. — At the breaking out of
the rebellion in 1745, the city-guard was augmented
to 126 men, the trained bands were ordered to be in
readiness, 1,000 men were raised by subscription,
and placed under the direction of the town-council,
a part of the King's forces were brought into the
vicinity, the walls were repaired, ditches were
thrown up, inquisition was made respecting stran-
gers lodging in the city, the money of the banks and
other public offices was removed to the castle, and
all preparatory measures were adopted which might
contribute to the defence or safety of the metropolis.
On the 13th of September the Pretender crossed the
Forth with 2,000 men, some miles west of Stirling;
and on the 15th he had reached Linlithgow, and
driven Gardiner's dragoons before him in retreat.
The city's regiment and town-guard, marching out
to assist the King's forces, in making a stand a
mile to the westward of Edinburgh, saw the troops
whom they went to support in full retreat, and fell
back upon the city only to witness universal con-
sternation among its inhabitants. While negotia-
tions were attempted with the rebel camp for the
safety of the city, S00 Highlanders, under Cameron
of Lochiel, took advantage, on the afternoon of the
17th September, of the opening of the Netherbow
for the admission of a carriage belonging to the
negotiators, to rush quietly into the town, overpower
the guard, and take immediate and entire possession
of the streets. On the same day the Chevalier led
bis little army into the King's park, fixed his camp
at Duddingstone, entered Holyrood-house, com-
manded the magistrates, on pain of military execu-
tion, to furnish stores which cost 2s. 6d. per pound
on the real rental of the inhabitants, ordered the
citizens to give up their arms, proclaimed James
VIII. of Scotland at the cross, and at night held a
splendid ball in the palace.
On the 18th Charles was joined by Lord Nairne,
with 1,000 men from the North. On the 20th he
marched out to the field of Prestonpans; and on the
21st won his easy victory there, and returned in
triumph to Edinburgh. On the 25th the castle,
alarmed by some noise among the rocks, fired upon
the Highland guard at the West port. Charles now
cut off communication between it and the city ; and
the castle being scantily supplied with provisions,
the governor threatened a cannonading if the
blockade should not be removed. A severe firing
was now commenced upon the city, and filled all
quarters with terror and confusion, demolished and
burned a number of houses, and killed and wounded
many of the inhabitants as well as of the Highland
soldiers. At the end of two days, Charles removed
the blockade, and restored quiet; and on the 31st
of October, he, at the head of his army, left Edin-
burgh for England. After the final defeat of
Charles, 14 standards taken at Culloden were
ignominiously burned at the cross of Edinburgh ;
and the Duke of Cumberland visited the city in his
way to the South, and occupied apartments in Holy-
rood-house. Archibald Stewart, Esq., who filled
the office of lord-provost when the rebels entered
EDINBURGH.
583
EDINBURGH.
the metropolis, was brought before the justiciary-
court, for malversation favourable to the Jacobites ;
but after a trial of six days, as remarkable for its
interesting character as for its length, was ac-
quitted.
Tumults between the years 1778 and 1812. — In
1778 the Earl of Seaforth's Highland regiment, then
quartered in the castle, being required to embark
for India, broke into mutiny, and encamped on
Arthur's - seat ; but were brought to allegiance
through the interposition of Lords Dunmore and
Macdonald. In 1779, a mob — exasperated by mea-
sures in progress to repeal the penal laws against
Roman Catholics — burnt one popish chapel, plun-
dered another, and destroyed considerable property
belonging to Romish priests and people, and even
to some Protestant advocates of their civil rights.
Military assistance was called in, and quelled the
disturbance without loss of life or recourse to vio-
lence ; but the city was afterwards obliged to com-
pensate damages to the amount of £1,500. When
the French revolution broke out, several citizens of
Edinburgh were brought to trial for treason and
sedition, and visited with rigorous punishment.
During the atrocities of the French reign of terror,
the city made zealous demonstrations of loyalty.
After the breach of the peace of Amiens, four vo-
lunteer regiments were raised in the city, constitut-
ing a force of between 3,000 and 4,000 men. On
the night of the 31st December, 1811, a body of
youths, united by previous conspiracy, and armed
with bludgeons, scoured the streets, indiscriminately
plundered persons in their way, drove the police
headlong before them, killed one person and mor-
tally wounded several others, and, during a consider-
able part of the night, maintained mastery over the
town. Three of the youthful rioters were after-
wards brought to trial, and publicly executed in the
High-street. Some affecting incidents connected
with their execution, and especially the horrors of
the scene which caused it, excited salutary, general,
and permanent feelings, both of aversion to the
bacchanalian festival of celebrating the transition
from an old to a new year, and of concern for the
education and moral training of the young.
Tlie Visit of George IV. — George IV. 's visit to
Scotland in 1822, both in the event itself and in the
preparations for it, stirred the whole kingdom from
centre to circumference, and made immense excite-
ment in the metropolis. The authorities at Edin-
burgh got scarcely a month's notice to prepare, yet
exerted themselves so zealously, and were so zeal-
ously aided by all persons who could render them
any help, as to perform wonders. " The apartments
in Holyrood-house were cleaned, repaired, and fitted
up with suitable elegance; a new approach was
formed from the south side of the Calton-hill to the
front of the palace; the road through the King's
park was opened for the convenience of his Majesty
travelling to and from Dalkeith-house, where it was
intended he should reside; the Weigh-house was re-
moved to clear the passage to the castle ; a barrier,
like the gates of a city, was constructed in Leith-
walk, nearly opposite Picardy-place ; and triumphal
arches were erected at Leith, where it was presumed
his Majesty would land, but in case that should not
be found expedient, a communication was opened
with Trinity chain-pier. At the same time an en-
campment was formed on Salisbury-crags and the
Calton-hill, where guns were stationed, and poles
erected for displaying the royal standard; and, in a
wird, every effort was used to receive his Majesty
with becoming pomp and splendour. Meanwhile,
crowds of people from all parts of the country, and
equipages of eveiy description, from the superb fa-
shionable chariot-and-four to the humble Glasgow
noddy, poured in daily. All was bustle, anxiety and
expectation, the novelty of the approaching spec-
tacle heightening the interest with which it was
anticipated, and raising to the highest pitch of ex-
citement the loyal feelings which seemed to animate
every bosom. The session of parliament having
been closed by his Majesty in person on the 6th of
August, he embarked at Greenwich for Scotland on
the 10th. On the 14th the royal squadron arrived
in Leith roads; but the state of the weather being
unfavourable, it was announced that the landing
would be deferred till the morrow.
" On the 15th, which proved a remarkably fine
day, all was bustle and preparation. The whole of
Leith-walk was lined with scaffolding on each side;
every comer was crowded with well-dressed people ;
and the windows in every street through which the
procession was to pass, exhibited clusters of heads
densely packed together. Exactly at noon a gun
from the royal yacht announced that his Majesty
had embarked; and soon after, the royal barge en-
tered the harbour amidst the thunder of artillery,
and the still more gratifying peals of enthusiastic
acclamations, sent forth by the immense multitude
who had assembled to witness this magnificent
spectacle. At the landing-place, which was a plat-
form covered with scarlet-cloth, his Majesty was
received by the Duke of Dorset, the Marquis of
Winchester, the Earl of Cathcart, the Earl of Fife,
Sir William Elliot, Sir Thomas Bradford, the judges
of the supreme courts, and the magistrates of Leith,
all of whom he shook cordially by the hand. His
Majesty then proceeded to his carriage, which was
opened at the top; and after being seated with the
Duke of Dorset and Marquis of Winchester, it drove
off at a slow pace, guarded by the company of royal
archers, under the command of the Earl of Elgin,
and a detachment of the Scots Greys. The train of
the procession, which moved by Bernard-street,
Constitution-street, and along Leith-walk, was of a
more splendid kind than had ever been seen in
Scotland, and consisted of all that rank and pomp
could contribute to grace the ceremonial. The head
of the cavalcade reached the harriers of Edinburgh
about one o'clock, when the lord-provost, accom-
panied by the magistrates, presented his Majesty
with the silver-keys of the city, which his Majesty
immediately returned with a short and courteous
speech. The procession then moved forward by
York-place, and St. Andrew's-square to Prince's-
street, and turning to the eastward, proceeded to
the Regent-bridge, Waterloo-place. On entering
Prince's-street, where, on the one hand, the pictur-
esque irregularity of the Old town, surmounted by
its venerable and majestic Acropolis, and, on the
other, the elegance and splendour of the New town,
with the Calton-hill in front, terraced with human
beings, burst upon the view, his Majesty was
charmed with the scene, then enlivened by every
accompaniment that could heighten the feeling of
admiration, and waving his hat, exclaimed, 'How
superb ! ' About two o'clock his Majesty reached
the palace of Holyrood-house, and his arrival was
announced by salutes fired from the castle and from
the guns placed on the Calton-hill and Salisbury-
crags.
" After receiving the congratulations of the ma-
gistrates and other authorities, his Majesty set out
in his private carriage for Dalkeith-house. Fire-
works were exhibited in the evening, while a beacon
blazed on the summit of Arthur's-seat ; and the
night following there was a general illumination.
On the 17th his Majesty held a levee in Holyrood-
house, which was most numerously and splendidly
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584
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attended; on the 19th he received the addresses of
the Commission of the General Assembly of the
Church of Scotland, of the four universities and of
other public bodies; and on the 20th he held a draw-
ing-room, which was graced by about 500 ladies,
the most distinguished for rank, beauty, and fashion,
which Scotland could boast of. On the 22d, his
Majesty went in procession from Holyrood-house to
the castle, which would have proved a gorgeous
pageant had not the effect of the spectacle been
impaired by almost incessant rain. On the follow-
ing day he reviewed a body of about 3,000 cavalry,
chiefly yeomanry, on Portobello sands; and the
same evening attended a splendid ball given in
honour of the royal visit by the peers of Scotland.
On the 24th a splendid banquet was given to his
Majesty in the great hall of the Parliament-house
by the lord-provost, magistrates, and town-council,
on which occasion his Majesty honoured the city
by creating the lord-provost a baronet; and the
following day, being Sunday, he attended divine
service in the High church, — Dr. Lament, moderator
of the General Assembly, officiating on the occasion.
A ball given by the Caledonian Hunt was attended
by his Majesty on the 26th; and on the 27th he
made his last appearance before his Scottish sub-
jects in a visit to the theatre, where with his ac-
customed good taste, he had commanded the national
play of ' Rob Roy ' to be performed, and where,
both at his entrance and departure, he was hailed
with long-continued and enthusiastic acclamations
from all parts of the house. On the 29th his Ma-
jesty, after partaking of a splendid repast prepared
at Hopetoun-house, embarked on board the royal
yacht at Port Edgar, near Queensferry, amidst the
cheers and cordial adieus of a vast body of spectators,
assembled from all parts of the adjacent country."
The Great Fires of 1 824. — Two great fires broke
out in the Old town, in 1824, respectively on the
night of the 24th of June and on the night of the
loth of November, and worked awful devastation.
The former especially was one of the most dreadful
fires of modern times, continued three days, destroyed
the greater part of the section of the High-street
between St. Giles' church and the South-bridge, as
well as parts of some houses on the opposite side,
and looked for some time as if it would destroy the
whole city. Some of the houses consumed by it
were of great height and vast capacity, containing
each from forty to sixty dwelling-places of the poor,
besides large well-stored basement-story shops; so
that they were very doleful to look upon, both for
their enormous disgorgitation of human beings,
fleeing to the streets and carrying their bits of
furniture along with them, and for the prodigious
volumes of flame which they shot far aloft into the
sky. Sir Walter Scott, who was a witness of the
conflagration, said, — " I can conceive no sight more
grand or terrible than to see those lofty buildings
on fire from top to bottom, vomiting out flames, like
a volcano, from every aperture, and finally crashing
down one after another into an abyss of fire, which
resembled nothing but hell; for there were vaults
of wine and spirits which sent up huge jets of
flames whenever they were called into activity by
the fall of these massive fragments. Between the
corner of the Parliament-square and the Tron
church all is destroyed excepting some new buildings
at the lower extremity."
Political Reform Demonstrations. — No place in the
United Kingdom exceeded Edinburgh in the excite-
ments and demonstrations which accompanied the
popular demand for parliamentary reform in 1 830 ;
nor did any place display a higher enthusiasm in
the first exercise of the franchise which the reform
bill conferred. At the election of the city members
in December 1832 for the first reformed parliament,
the population poured into the streets in greater
numbers and in higher glee than on any former oc-
casion known to history, — almost rivalling the ap-
pearance of the crowds from all parts of the country
who greeted the visit of George IV. And in the
autumn of 1834, shortly after the retiring of Earl
Grey from the premiership, a large portion of the
citizens invited him to a public banquet, in order to
testify their admiration of him for having obtained
the reform bill; and as no hall in the city was large
enough for their purpose, they procured the erection
of a temporary pavilion on the Calton hill; and
there, to the number of about two thousand, they
sat down with the Earl to dinner, — the general body
of the people, at the same time, making demonstra-
tions abundantly enthusiastic. At subsequent
periods, also, the ultraists, who accepted the reform
bill only as an instalment of much greater changes,
made various considerable excitements among the
lower classes of the citizens. And in the spring of
1848, in particular, at almost the first crash of the
sudden political revolutions throughout the conti-
nent of Europe, the mobocracy of Edinburgh burst
hotly into sympathy with them, breaking the public
lamps, smashing windows, scouring the streets, and
threatening for two nights to do everything they
could to overthrow all established order; but they
were promptly and permanently hushed, partly by
the vigorous behaviour of the authorities, and still
more by the strong counter-demonstrations of the
rest of the inhabitants, in every possible form of
expression, but particularly in the form of powerful
patrolling masses of special constables.
Visits of Victoria and Albert. — In September 1842,
Edinburgh was honoured by a visit of Queen Victoria
and Prince Albert. The intention of the royal per-
sonages was merely to pass through the city, with'
all possible quietness, on their way first to Dalkeith
palace and next to Taymouth castle; so that no
kind of processional display was contemplated. But
the authorities of Edinburgh, in sub-concert with
those of the royal household, made preparations to
give a grand reception at a triumphal arch in Bran-
don-street; while multitudes of the citizens, as also
multitudes of strangers from all parts of the country,
nearly as numerous as those who had crowded the
city on occasion of the visit of George IV., engaged
places at windows, on platforms, and at all other
available stances along the expected route, by way
of Pitt - street, Dundas - street, Hanover -street,
Prince's-street, Waterloo-place, and Regent-road,
to enjoy a sight of the Queen and the Prince, and
to render their progress through the city practically
a jubilation. In consequence of some mistake in
the management of the preconcerted signals, how-
ever, the royal personages, on the morning of the 1st
of September, landed so very early at Granton, and
rode so very early into the city, and through it, as
to take the magistrates, and the greater number of
the people, entirely by surprise.
" The civic authorities, robed and chained in their
council-room at the Royal exchange, sat solemn and
silent as the Roman senators on the occasion of the
irruption of the barbarians. Struck at once with
surprise and dismay at the sound of the castle guns
firing the salute, they started up to a man; and,
learning that the Queen had already passed the
barrier, they rushed to their carriages, sauve qui
peat, filled with that natural eagerness to be blessed
with a sight of Her Majesty, which they partook
with their fellow-citizens. Seeing that their magis-
terial occupation was gone for that day, they drove
off down the High-street, and while some of them
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585
EDINBURGH.
took the South Bridge, others pursued their break-
neck way down the steep and narrow Canongate,
with the anxious hope that, as they had missed their
chance of appearing officially before the royal eyes
at her Majesty's entrance into the city, they might
at least behold her as humble individuals, as she
was departing from it. The crowd that had assem-
bled in the High-street, with the wise intention of
taking its time and the direction of its motions from
those of the magistrates, no sooner beheld them bolt
out and escape in this manner than they followed
pell-mell with all speed. But they could by no
means catch the provost and bailies, and meeting
with streams of people equally bewildered who were
rushing across at right angles to the High-street,
by the South and North Bridges, the confusion be-
came quite like that of a routed army. Some of the
civic authorities tried to gain their object by en-
deavouring to cut in before the Queen at different
points, but, with one exception, they arrived every-
where just in time to be too late."
The citizens afterwards consoled themselves as
well as they could with a general illumination. The
Queen, also, on hearing of their disappointment,
promptly consented to revisit the city on the 3d,
with the express view of showing herself to
her people, in a procession from Holyrood to
the castle, thence by Bank-street, the Mound,
Prince's-street, and Queensferry-street, on her way
to lunch at Dalmeny-park, and once more along
the southern outskirts of Leith, on her way back
to Dalkeith; and the news of this being spread
by proclamation of the magistrates, effectually
restored all parties to the highest good humour.
The procession, accordingly, took place, in the
grandest style, though with much more of moral de-
monstration than of gaudy pageantry. But it so
closely resembled that of George IV.'s public entry
that it need not be described. On the 6th of Sep-
tember, also, and again on the 13th, the Queen and
her Consort, on their way to and from their tour
into Perthshire, were enthusiastically cheered by
dense crowds along all their route within the city,
between Newington and the western suburbs. And
at their departure from Scotland on the 15th, their
progress, by way of Nicolson-street, the North-
bridge, and Hanover-street, from one extremity to
another of the environs, was everywhere an ova-
tion. " From the Dalkeith road at Newington, all
the way to Granton, a distance of four miles, there
was one continued mass of human heads on both
sides of the way, with the exception of the bridges
cleared by the military. Every window, balcony,
or place of vantage along the line was tenanted by
eager occupants at an early hour; and no position
was yielded up even for a moment, lest the holder of
it might thereby be prevented from giving one last
enthusiastic greeting to the Queen, ere she should
intrust her sacred person to the waves, and shower-
ing blessings on her head."
The Queen and her Consort and their children
were again in Edinburgh on the afternoon of the
29th of August, 1850. But on this occasion they
took up their abode at Holyrood, and remained there
till the morning of the 31st. Arrangements had
been attempted to organise a grand masonic proces-
sion, with Prince Albert at its head, on the 30th, to
grace the laying of the foundation stone of the Art-
Galleries on the Mound; but, for some cause con-
nected with the notions of the masonic authorities,
these arrangements had failed. The public, how-
ever, were understood to be under a tacit resolution
to pay the same honours to Prince Albert alone
which they would have paid to the entire intended
procession; and right fully and heartily did they
fulfil this notion. The cortege which started from
Holyrood at the appointed hour comprised only the
carriage of the Sheriff and the carriage oi' the
Prince; but it proved all the grander for its sim-
plicity, and dazzled and pleased the mighty multi-
tude all the more for its wanting the pomp and glare
and outspread length of a pageant. The entire line
of the progress, from Holyrood by way of Abbey-hill
and Waterloo-place to the Mound, was a scene of
dense and high excitement. The streets, roads, and
adjacent grounds along the whole route, the bal-
conies in front of Regent-terrace, the Rigent-
gardens, the spacious grounds along the lower side
of the Regent road, the screens and projections of
the High-school, the towers and battlements of the
new jail, all the sudden slopes and terraces of the
Calton-hill, the galleries of Nelson's monument, and
all other places which could command any view of
the cortege, either near or remote, were occupied
by masses of well-dressed spectators. Probably not
fewer than 150,000 persons turned out to view
some part or other of the line of the procession.
The reception of the Prince at every point was
most enthusiastic, and all the romantic scenery
through which he passed rang and echoed with the
joyous acclamations of the people. The scene in
Waterloo-place along Prince's-street up to the
Royal institution was literally a triumph; and
the erections on and around the Mound, both
temporary and permanent, made a most imposing
display, — all mottled with banners or clothed with
men.
The Queen, the Prince Consort, and some of the
royal children, again spent two nights in Edinburgh,
in each of the years 1851-81, on their way to and
from Balmoral ; and the Prince of Wales resided at
Holyrood during some months of 1859, to enjoy the
benefits of Edinburgh as a seat of learning. A
magnificent spectacle took place, in the Queen's
park, in 1860, — the review, by her Majesty in per-
son, of upwards of 20,000 volunteers from all parts
of Scotland ; another spectacle, of similar character,
occurred on the same ground, next year, — a grand
sham battle among the volunteers of Edinburgh and
its neighbourhood, aided by the regular troops who
were in garrison ; and both spectacles were wit-
nessed, and at the same time splendidly enhanced,
by well-dressed multitudes, spread densely over the
adjacent heights. Another grand display, precisely
similar to that of August 1850, and at least equally
triumphant, occurred in October 1861. at the laving
of the foundation-stones of the New General Post-
Office and the National Industrial Museum, by the
Prince Consort ; and this was afterwards remem-
bered with peculiar emotion, on account of its hap-
pening only two months before the Prince's demise.
The appreciation of the royal visits, on the part of
the citizens, has ever been enthusiastic, — rather in-
creased than diminished by the yearly repetition.
EDINBURGH AND BATHGATE RAILWAY.
See Bathgate axd Edinburgh Railway.
EDINBURGH AND DALKEITH RAILWAY,
a railway from St. Leonard's at Edinburgh to the
South Esk river, with branches to Leith, Mussel-
burgh, and Dalkeith. It makes an extent of about
14 miles; but also intersects or receives branches
from the principal coal-fields of Mid-Lothian. It
was formed under sanction of acts passed in 1826,
1829, and 1834 ; was originally projected solely for
conveyance of coals, manure, and other bulky mat-
ters; crossed so many as seventeen highways or
streets on a level ; and described eleven bad curves
within a distance of 7J miles, several of them about
500 feet in radius. It soon began to be used for
passenger-traffic, but was worked only by horses,
EDINBURGH.
586
EDINBURGH.
so that locomotion on it was never speedier than on
a common road; and it was purchased, in 1845, by
the North British railway company, and very greatly
altered. It leaves St. Leonard's on an inclined plane
1 1 6 feet long, descending 1 foot in 30, passes through
a tunnel 1,716 feet long, and runs for 3 miles from
the bottom of the inclined plane on a level ; and all
the part of it from the St. Leonard's terminus to the
impact with the North British line is now used only
for coal-traffic; but the other parts, after being cured
of their faults by correction of their curves and other-
wise, were linked into the North British railway
system, and now form part of the grand railway
ramification from Edinburgh to all the south-east of
Scotland, traversed by locomotive engines, doing all
the work of general traffic, and concentrating in the
great terminus at Waverley-bridge. See Nokth
British Railway.
EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW CANAL. See
Union Canal.
EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW RAILWAY.
This magnificent work, projected in 1825 but only
resolved on in 1835, and an act for which was ob-
tained on the 4th of July, 1838, after a parliament-
ary contest of three sessions, was begun at the end
of that year, and was opened on the 18th of Febru-
ary, 1842. Measured from its original terminus at
the west end of Edinburgh, it is 46 miles in length,
being 2 miles longer than the Bathgate road betwixt
the two cities, and 1 mile shorter than the Cumber-
nauld-road ; but as carried into the heart of Edin-
burgh, at the North loch, its length is 47J miles.
With the exception of an inclined plane at Glasgow,
it presents nearly a level line throughout, the ruling
gradient being 1 in 880, or 6 feet a-mile, and that
only for a few miles. The gauge or width of the
rails is 4 feet 8J inches, and their weight 75 lbs. to
the yard. They are laid with 4 feet bearings on
cast-iron chairs. In the cuttings, the chairs are
placed on whinstone blocks of 4 cubic feet each ; on
the embankments, they are fixed on transverse
sleepers of larch 9 feet long. The interval between
the up and down rails is 6 feet. Pursuing a course
to the south of west, through Prince's-street gar-
dens, and St. Cuthbert's parish, the line is carried
across the Water of Leith, at the distance of 1
mile from the original terminus, by a viaduct of
three arches. One mile beyond this it enters Cor-
Etorphine parish; and thereafter runs for about half-
a-mile through the parish of Currie, in which it
passes the hamlet of Culton. It then enters the
parish of Ratho, through which it runs for a distance
of nearly 3i miles, bending nearly due west after
crossing Satho-burn, but again turning to the south
of west after leaving Norton-mains, in which direc-
tion it enters Kirkliston parish in Linlithgowshire,
through which it sweeps in a curve of 1 J mile radius,
a distance of 3| miles. Hitherto the line has passed
through a fertile and beautiful country, by an easy
line presenting no extensive embankments or deep
cuttings ; but shortly after entering Linlithgowshire,
it is conducted across the valley of the Almond by
a stupendous viaduct, consisting of 36 arches, of 50
feet span each, with piers 7 feet wide, and varying
from 60 to 85 feet in height; which is connected by
a lofty embankment with another viaduct of 7 arches
of 60 feet span, known as the Broxburn viaduct, by
which the line is carried across the turnpike-road to
Glasgow. The view from this part of the line is
magnificent ; but the eye of the amateur would have
been still further gratified had the line of arches
been continued between the two viaducts in place of
the present lofty and ponderous, though probably
less expensive embankment.
From the Broxburn viaduct the line proceeds in
a north-west direction, impinging on the Union
canal, passing the solitary ruin of Niddry-castle on
the right, and then plunging into a tunnel of 367
yards in length, by which it is conducted, at thd
depth of 100 feet, through a ridge of whinstone-rock
at Winchburgh, soon after emerging from which, it
enters Abercorn parish at the 11th mile from Edin-
burgh. A deep cutting of nearly 2 miles in length
occurs in this parish, through which the line pursues
a course more nearly west. Until the completion
of the 12th mile from Edinburgh, the ascent has
been gradual, amounting only to 63 feet; that is,
on an average, only 1 in 1,000. From this point to
the viaduct by which it is conducted across the
Avon, and leaves Linlithgow parish, a distance of
about 4£ miles, it has an inclination of 1 in 1,056.
The line now skirts the ancient town of Linlithgow
on the south, passing between the town and the
Union canal, and commanding a fine view of the
palace and the adjacent lake. The Avon, and the
finely-wooded valley through which that romantic
stream runs, is crossed by a viaduct of 20 arches of
50 feet span, and 3 of 20 feet, some of them upwards
of 90 feet in height, and of beautiful light masonry,
from which the magnificent aqueduct by which the
Union canal is led across the same valley, at a
point a little higher up the stream, is visible in its
full extent. The surface of the Avon viaduct is
only 38 feet above the level of the Edinburgh old
terminus. It conducts the line into Muiravonside
parish in Stirlingshire, through which it runs nearly
due west for a distance of about 2 miles, passing the
ruined castle of Almond on the left. A little be-
yond the 20th mile, it enters the parish of Polmont,
in which it passes to the south of the village of Red-
ding. From the 23d to near the 30th mile, it inter-
sects the parish of Falkirk, in a line nearly parallel
with the Union canal. The high ground immedi-
ately south of Falkirk, and part of Callendar-park,
the seat of Mr. Forbes, is pierced, at the depth of
130 feet, by a tunnel of 830 yards in length, 27 feet
wide, and 20 feet in height. A little beyond the
25th mile, at Tamfourhill, the line is conducted
across the Union canal locks by a viaduct of a strik-
ing appearance and great solidity, the principal
arch in which — a segment arch of 24 feet 6 inches
rise — has a span of 131 feet. The stones of which
this great arch is composed were brought from For-
farshire; they are five feet deep in the bed, of a
bluish colour and peculiar strength. The weight
of the arch-stones alone of this stupendous piece of
masonry is upwards of 1,900 tons. The arch was
thrown upon trussed centres, which required betwixt
12,000 and 1 3,000 cubic feet of timber for their con-
struction. The other arches here are 2 of 20 feet,
2 of 16, and 1 of 63 feet span. The view on the
portion of the line from the western extremity of
the Callendar tunnel to the last-mentioned viaduct
is very magnificent, presenting the rich carse of
Falkirk stretching away towards the east, with that
town close under the eye of the spectator, — the
windings of the Forth and Stirling-castle, with the
rich level carse-ground between in the centre, — and
the towering heights of Benledi and the Ochils,
Benlomond and the Grampians, in the distance. It
adds to the interest of the scene, that we are here
traversing the ground on which the battle of Fal-
kirk was fought in 1746.
Passing Tamfourhill, and crossing Bonnymuir,
a little beyond the 29th mile, the railway enters
Cumbernauld parish, in the shire of Dumbarton,
through which it runs in a waving line — having the
Forth and Clyde canal on the right — a distance ol
nearly 6 miles. In the neighbourhood of Castlecary
it crosses the road from Falkirk to Cumbernauld,
EDINBURGH.
587
EDINBURGH.
and the deep ravine of the Red-burn, by a viaduct
of 8 arches, each of 50 feet span, and nearly 90 feet
in height, — the one end terminating on a forced
embankment, the other resting on the far-famed re-
mains of the Roman camp at this spot. From a
little beyond Castlecary the general direction of the
line to its western terminus is to the south of west.
Passing about a mile to the north of Cumbernauld,
it continues on through rather a rough country,
but commanding an extensive view of the valley
stretching along the southern base of the Campsie-
hills, till it approaches Croy-mill, which is the sum-
mit of the line, being 79 feet above the level of the
old eastern terminus, and 49 feet above the top of
the inclined plane at the Glasgow terminus. The
cutting of the great ridge of whinstone-rock at
Croy was a work of vast labour and expense. To-
wards the centre of the ridge, the rock rises to a
height of 70 feet above the level of the rails. Run-
ning through Drumshanty moss, upon a formation
of dry turf, on which layers of brushwood and sand
are placed, and across the Luggie, by a sixth via-
duct of 4 arches of 30 feet span, it is carried, a little
beyond the 39th mile, over the Monkland and Kirk-
intilloch railway, by a seventh viaduct of 1 arch of
44 feet, 3 of 30 feet, and 1 of 15 feet span, with a
height of from 33 to 48 feet. Entering the county
of Lanark in Cadder parish, the line proceeds, with
a few moderate cuttings and embankings, through
a rude district of country, exhibiting the struggles
of the husbandman with a niggardly soil, until it
crosses the Kirkintilloch road near Bishopbriggs, and
enters the Barony-parish at the 43d mile. From this
point to the head of the inclined plane at Cowlairs,
there is some heavy cutting and embanking. At
the head of the inclined plane near Cowlairs, the
engine establishment is erected; and here were
placed the fixed engines which worked the tunnel
terminating in the depot in Queen-street, before the
introduction of the powerful locomotive which now
drags the train to the summit of the tunnel. The
inclined plane is 2,077 yards in length, consisting
of open cutting, and a tunnel divided by eyes or
openings of 40 feet each in length, into three por-
tions of 550, 300, and 297 yards. Its fall is 1 in 43.
It is lighted by 43 gas-lamps. The terminus at
the head of Queen-street opens into George's-square ;
and is within 200 yards of the Royal exchange, and
750 of the Clyde.
The stations on the direct line between Edin-
burgh and Glasgow are Corstorphine, Gogar, Ratho,
Winchburgh, Linlithgow, Polmont, Falkirk, Castle-
cary, Croy, Campsie-Junction, and Bishopbriggs.
There are connected with this railway, either by
original construction, by purchase and incorpora-
tion, by leasehold, or by close agreement, the Union
canal, which is now used as a canal only subordi-
nately to the railway, — the Bathgate and Edinburgh
railway which diverges from the main line, at a
point a little west of the Ratho station, — the Stir-
lingshire Midland Junction railway, which goes off
at the Polmont station, to a junction with the Scot-
tish Central railway near Larbert, — two branches
to the Monkland railways, from respectively the
parish of Linlithgow and the parish of Kirkintilloch,
— a branch from Greenhill, a little west of Croy, to
the Scottish Central railway, — the Scottish Central
railway itself, — the Stirling and Dunfermline rail-
way,— the Wilsontown, Morningside, and Coltness
railway, together with that railway's branches to
Shotts and Bathgate, — the Dumbartonshire and
Helensburgh railway, — a branch from Garngibber
to Lennoxtown of Campsie, — and a short branch
from Cowlairs to serve for connexion with the Cale-
donian railway. The directors got power, in 1855,
to subscribe £50,000 to the Dumbartonshire and
Helensburgh railway, and to raise £180,000, by-
shares, to enlarge the Queen-street station, and for
other purposes. The total amount raised, by shares
and loans, till the close of 1860, was £4,408,004.
EDINBURGH AND GEANTON RAILWAY.
See Edinburgh, Pekth, and Dundee Railway.
EDINBURGH AND HAWICK RAILWAY.
See North British Railway.
EDINBURGH AND NORTHERN RAILWAY.
See Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee Railway.
EDINBURGH AND PERTH RAILWAY, a
projected railway, which gave place to the project
of the Edinburgh and Northern, but held for a time
a stiff place in the popular imagination, to diverge
from the Edinburgh and Glasgow at Gogar, to pro-
ceed thence to South Queensferry, and to go by a
comparatively direct route from North Queensferry
to Perth. The ferry on the Forth was to be passed
by powerful steamers, which it was calculated
would generally perform the voyage in five or six
minutes. The railway thence was to pass Inver-
keithing, to send off a branch of about 2 miles to
Dunfermline, to traverse the great coal-fields in the
parishes of Dunfermline, Beath, Aberdour, and
Auchterderran, and to proceed by Kinross, Milna-
thort, and Glenfarg, to Strathearn and Perth. The
extent of works required to be constructed would
be only 34 miles, though the total distance from
Edinburgh to Perth is about 43 miles.
EDINBURGH, LEITH, AND GRANTON
RAILWAY. See Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee
Railway.
EDINBURGH, PERTH, AND DUNDEE
RAILWAY. This railway is an amalgamation of
the Edinburgh, Leith, and Granton railway to the
south of the Forth, and the Edinburgh and Northern
railway to the north of the Forth. The amalga-
mation was twice made, — respectively in 1849 and
in 1851. The scheme was defined to be a line
from Edinburgh, in conjunction with the North
British railway and the Edinburgh and Glasgow
railway, to Leith harbour and Granton pier, to
Burntisland on the Fife shore and to Ladybank,
a junction from Ladybank to the Scottish Cen-
tral railway near Perth, a continuation from
Ladybank to Cupar-Fife and to Tayport, to be
joined from the latter place by ferry with the
Arbroath and Dundee railway at Broughty-Ferry,
and branches to Kirkcaldy harbour and to New-
burgh harbour, a branch from Thornton to Dun-
fermline, and a branch from Loggie in the vicinitv
of Guard-bridge to the city of St. Andrews. All
these parts of the scheme have been executed; as
also a supplementary part, sanctioned in June 1852,
comprising a branch from Thornton to Kirkland-
works and Leven harbour.
The line commences at the general terminus in
the North loch valley of Edinburgh, opposite St.
Andrew's-street, traverses a tunnel to the foot of
Scotland-street, has there a depot-station, traverses
another tunnel past Canonmills, crosses the Water
of Leith on a handsome viaduct, sends off a branch
down the left bank of that stream to North Leith in
the vicinity of the docks, proceeds through deep
cuttings to Trinity, curves rapidly there to the
west, and descends an inclined plane, with a curve
at its farther end, to Granton pier. Excellent appli-
ances exist there for prompt pleasant transference
to the ferry. This is five miles broad; and a
powerful, beautiful steam -barge for each train
passes it in about twenty minutes. The appliances
of pier and terminus on the Burntisland side are
equally good. The railway proceeds thence along
the beach, under cliffs, and through cuttings, and at
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
588
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
one place through a short tunnel, to Kinghom and
Kirkcaldy, enters the latter town on a stupendous
viaduct, sends off a branch to Kirkcaldy harbour,
proceeds by the station of Sinclairtown and Dysart
to Thornton-junction, sends off there a branch on
the left hand to Dunfermline and a branch on the
right hand to Leven, and proceeds thence by the sta-
tions of Markinch, Falkland-road, and Kingskettle
to the Ladybank-junction. This is 27 miles from
Edinburgh; and here the line divides into its two
great forks toward respectively Perth and Dundee.
The general direction from Edinburgh hitherto had
been nearly due north ; but the general direction
henceforth to Perth is north-westward, and to Tay-
port north-eastward.
The Perth fork proceeds to Collessie station,
which is pitched upon a viaduct over cross-roads.
It passes the pretty scenery of Lindores loch; and
then, on a precipitous embankment, midway up the
face of Clatchend crag, at an elevation of upwards
of 1 CO feet above the level of the adjacent public
road, it curves into a sudden view of the frith of
Tay and the carse of Gowrie. It cuts off an upper
terrace of Newburgh, but passes comparatively high
above the rest of the town. It turns to a direction
south of west to Abemethy, crosses the foot of
Glenfarg, goes up Strathearn to the Bridge of Earn,
deflects there to the north, traverses a tunnel
thi img'h the Hill of Moncrief, and terminates on the
South Inch of Perth. — The Dundee fork passes
down the valley of the Eden, by Springfield station,
to Cupar-Fife, goes under a high bridge at Cupar
station, crosses the Eden, proceeds by Dairsie station
to the vicinity of Guard-bridge, sends off there the
branch to St. Andrews, and proceeds by Leuchars,
and across the arid tract of Tents moor to Tayport.
The ferry thence to Broughty castle is only seven
furlongs ; and is effected promptly and pleasant-
ly by well-appointed steamers; communication at
the same time being made direct with Dundee, for
all persons who prefer it, by other steamers. The
run on the part of the Dundee and Arbroath rail-
way between Broughty and Dundee is similarly
short and facile to the run from Edinburgh and
Granton.
EDINBURGHSHIRE, or Mid-Lothian, situated
in the eastern part of the southern division of
Scotland, has a somewhat seriated outline, yet has
proximately the figure of a half-moon, whose body
rests on the frith of Forth, and whose horns stretch
away south-east, and to the north of west. On the
north it is bounded by the frith of Forth ; on the
east by Haddingtonshire, Berwickshire, and Rox-
burghshire; on the south by Selkirkshire, Peebles-
shire, and Lanarkshire; and on the north-west by
Linlithgowshire. It lies between 55° 39' 30" and
55° 59' 20" north latitude, and between 2° 52'
and 3° 45' 10" longitude west from Greenwich;
and measures in extreme length from east to west
about 37 miles, in average breadth from north to
south a little under 10 miles, and in superficial area
367 square miles or 234,925 statute acres. These
are the measurements of the recent Ordnance sur-
vey; but those of the author of ' Caledonia' and of
the author of the 'Agricultural Survey of Mid-Lo-
thian,' which formerly were much relied upon, gave
only 229,120 and 227J832 English acres. The boun-
dary-line along the Forth runs nearly east and west,
and is about 12 miles; that on the east runs nearly
north and south, and is about 23 miles; that on the
south runs west-north-westward, and is about 38
miles; and that with Linlithgowshire follows, with
one brief exception, the course of Breich-water and
Almond-water, runs north-eastward, and is about
21 miles.
Edinburghshire may, in the most general point
of view, be considered as consisting of an inclined
plane or hanging level, descending northward or
eastward of north toward the frith of Forth ; and a
section, 11 miles in length, of upland ploughed by
streams, and inclining southward at its south-east-
ern horn. — The most prominent hills are the Pent-
lands, which come in upon the county in continuous
and parallel ranges from Peebles-shire, and sweep
northward nearly along its middle, over a distance
of 12 miles, till they terminate in bold outlines 6
miles from the sea, or 4 from the capital. East-
Cairn-hill, near the middle of a continuous group of
eminences not greatly inferior to it in elevation,
rises 1,802 feet above the level of the sea at Leith.
See the article Pentlands. Next to the Pentlands,
the Moorfoot hills, which are a. continuation of the
Lammermoor hills, are the most conspicuous ranges.
From Coatlaw, on the west side of Moorfoot water,
the most northerly one of two ranges, coming in
from Peebles-shire, stretches about 10 miles east-
north-east, and terminates in Cowberry hill, near
the source of Gala water. This range cuts off the
parishes of Heriot and Stow from the main body of
the county, and forms a line between waters which
flow northward, and the sources of the southward
streams which are carried off toward the Tweed.
The other range of the Moorfoot hills also branches
off from Coatlaw on the western point, and extends,
with a wider spread than the former, about 10 miles,
in a south-east direction, over the country which is
drained by the Heriot and the Luggate waters.
The two Moorfoot ranges may, as to the geograph-
ical lines which they form, be regarded as two sides
of a triangle which has Gala water on the east as
its base. The area of this triangle, and the stripe
along the Gala water, are irregularly studded by
hills of the transition series, generally round, some-
times insulated, and nowhere linked into a continu-
ous range.
Along the extensive inclined plane which stretches
between the Pentland and the Moorfoot ranges and
the sea, are several brief hilly chains, or remarkable
congeries of elevations. The most singular, roman-
tic, and curiously agglomerated are those which
partly environ and partly bear aloft the capital, and
which were briefly described in the articles, Ar-
thur's Seat, Calton, and Edinburgh. Between
the parishes of Cranston and Crichton on the east,
and the parishes of Dalkeith and Cockpen on the
west, a continued ridge of hill stretches nearly 6
miles from north to south ; but, though rising in
various places from 550 to 680 feet above the level
of the sea, does not much obstruct a road which
crosses its centre from Edinburgh to Coldstream.
Through the parish of Corstorphine run the hills of
the same name, in a curving direction from north-
west to south-east, over a distance of 2 miles ; but,
rising only 474 feet above the level of the sea, they
derive their conspicuousness of appearance, partly
from some remarkable indentations in their sum-
mits, and chiefly from their being surrounded by a
rich extensive plain. In Ratho parish a small con-
geries of hills, called the Plat hills, rising 600 feet
above the level of the sea, runs about 1A mile from
north to south. In the southern extremity of the
same parish, at the head-springs of the Gogar burn,
are three trap hills in a line, called Dalmahoy-crags,
two of which rise respectively 660 and 680 feet
above the level of the sea. Other hills in the
county are either rising grounds of inferior note, or
spurs of the Pentland range.
The northern and western sections of tho county
are in general arable, fertile, and variegated only
to an agreeable and highly beautiful degree with
EDINBURGIISHIEE.
589
EDIKBURGHSHIKE.
rising grounds ; and the southern and south-eastern
sections, especially the latter, are, to a large extent,
pastoral. About one-third of the whole county
may be estimated as the proportion of hill or
grounds inaccessible to the plough. On the great
inclined plane which forms the northern division, is
a tract of upwards of 50,000 Scotch acres of arable
and fertile lands, stretching about 15 or 16 miles
from east to west, and 6 or 8 from north to south.
The hills and rising grounds which diversify this
tract, while they greatly embellish the landscape,
abound in fine pasture, and are nearly equal in ter-
ritorial value to the level grounds. Farther south,
and nearer the mountain-ranges, is another tract of
plain country, situated from 600 to 900 feet above
the level of the sea, with a northern exposure, hav-
ing in general a good soil, not unfriendly to vege-
tation, abounding in warm and wealthj' spots which
carry luxuriance up to the very base and along the
lower face of the mountains, and containing stretches
of moorland and moss which, in many instances,
have accepted opulence and adornment from the
hand of culture. Interspersed among the moun-
tains, especially among the Moorfoot ranges, are
several dales or valleys, consisting of good arable
land. The pasture in the hilly and unplougbable
districts is in general sweet and healthy, and en-
riches the country with the breed of sheep which it
supports. The soil of the county is much diversi-
fied. Clay, sand, loam, and gravel, are all, in many
cases, to be seen on the same farm, and frequently
in the same field, with many variations of quality;
and they are so blended, and compete so briskly for
pre-eminence, that one cannot easily determine
which predominates.
"Almost the whole of the county may be seen
at once from the summit of Allermore, the most
elevated of the Pentland hills to the north. Its
waters may be traced by the fringe of wood with
which their banks are generally ornamented. The
numberless villas in the vicinity of Edinburgh, and
gentlemen's seats, all over the county, are seen
beautiful and distinct, each in the midst of its own
plantations. These add still more to the embellish-
ment of the scene from the manner in which they
are disposed; not in extended and thick plantations,
which turn a country into a forest, and throw a
gloom upon the prospect, but in clear and diversified
lines, in clumps and hedge-rows, or waving in clouds
on the brows of hills and elevated situations, useful
as well as ornamental ; protecting, not injuring,
cultivation. In fact, Mid-Lothian, when viewed on
a fine summer-day from almost any of its hills, dis-
plays a prospect of as many natural beauties, without
being deficient in those embellishments which arise
from industry and cultivation, as perhaps can be
met with in any tract of the same extent in Great
Britain. The expanse of the Forth, which forms
the northern boundary, adds highly to the natural
beauty of the scene ; and the capital, situated upon
an eminence adjoining to an extensive plain, rises
proudly to the view, and gives a dignity to the
whole. Descending from the hills to the low
country, the surface, which had the appearance of
an uniform plain, undergoes a remarkable change
to the eye. The fields are laid out in various direc-
tions according to the natural figure of the ground,
which is unequal, irregular, and inclined to every
point of the compass. The most part, however, of
the land lies upon a gentle slope, either to the north
or the south, in banks which are extended from west
to east all over the county. This inequality in the
surface contributes much to the ornament of the
country, by the agreeable relief which the eye ever
meets with in the change of objects ; while the uni-
versal declivity, which prevails more or less in
every field, is favourable to the culture of the lands,
by allowing a ready descent to the water which tails
from the heavens."
Edinburghshire is well watered; though, from its
peculiar configuration, it is washed by no stream of
sufficient length or volume to be called a liver. All
the numerous streams, which touch or intersect it,
are designated either burns or waters. But its de-
ficiency as to natural inland navigation is abundant-
ly compensated by the sweep along its northern
boundary of the broad navigable sea-waters of the
Forth. The frith where it rolls past the county is
from 7 to 12 miles broad, and swarms with white
fish and herrings, and profusely scatters on the
beach some of the best kinds of shell-fish. But for
many ages it has been making encroachments on
the land ; and, in consequence, it stretches out in
long shallows from the shore, and offers greatly less
and fewer facilities for navigation than would seem
to be promised by the expanse of its waters, and the
declination of its coast. Almond water, the most
westerly stream of the county, comes down upon it
at the northern angle of the parish of West-Calder
from Linlithgowshire, intersects a wing of the parish
of Mid-Calder, and, thence to the sea, forms the
north-western boundary-line. The water of Leith
rises in the south-eastern extremity of the parish of
Mid-Calder, and flows generally in a deep channel
between wooded banks, over a distance of 20 miles
to the sea at Leith. The Esk — the largest stream
in the county — is composed of two main branches
which unite below Dalkeith, and fall into the sea at
Musselburgh ; and, by its head-waters and its nu-
merous tributaries, it drains the whole country
lying between the Pentland and the Moorfoot ran-
ges of mountain. The Tyne rises near the north-east
termination of the Moorfoot hills, and after flowing
7 miles northward in the county, debouches to the
east, and passes away into East Lothian. The Gala
rises in the northern limit of the Moorfoot hills, and
flows 10 miles southward through the parishes of
Heriot and Stow, receiving from the west the
waters of the Heriot and the Luggate, and leaves
Edinburghshire at its south-eastern angle. All
these streams form the subject of separate articles
in the present work. — The lakes are so inconsider-
able as to be fit objects of notice only in the articles
on the parishes.
A continuous bed of coal, nearly 15 miles in
length, and from 7 to 8 in breadth, extends across
the county from Carlops to Musselburgh, in a north-
erly direction, stretching beneath the vale of the
North Esk. Coal is worked, however, chiefly in the
lower part of the vale, and there occurs in seams
from 20 to 25 in number, partly on edge and partly
flat, and from 2 to 15 feet in thickness. In one
estate, in the parish of Lasswade, coal appears to
have been worked as far back as the beginning of
the 17th century. The quantity annually disem-
bowelled from the earth during many years, was so
considerable as to yield a rental for the pits of about
£12,000; and has been materially increased since
the construction of the Edinburgh and Dalkeith
railway. But owing to the prevalence of ' dikes,1
the great expense of working the mines, and the
spirited competition of the Fife and Western coal-
districts, it has not yielded large remuneration to
proprietors. In the rising ground south of New-
battle, on the estate of the Marquis of Lothian, fine
parrot-coal occurs in abundance, and is thence
carried to Edinburgh for the manufacture of coal-
gas. — Limestone abounds in the coal-district, and
also between that district and the hills by Middle-
ton, Crichton-Dean and Fala, as well as in the
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
590
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
south-west angle of the county, in the parish of
East Calder. The most remarkable and abundant
strata are near Gilmerton, in the parish of Liberton.
One mine — which has been abandoned from time
immemorial, and which evinces that limestone was
first worked in localities where it looked out from
the surface — " presents the appearance of an im-
mense series of arcades upon a considerable declivity,
reaching from the surface to a most profound depth
under the incumbent fields, and forming quite a
local wonder." — Sandstone of excellent quality and
various kinds is abundant. One principal quarry is
at Craigieith, in the parish of St. Cuthbert's, and
near the metropolis; and has produced the immense
quantity of beautifully white and very durable
stone, of which the greater part of the New town of
Edinburgh is built. The six columns in front of
the college, each consisting of one stone 23 feet by 3,
and supposed to be superior to any similar pillars in
Britain, are from this quarry. Another principal
quarry is at Hales, in the parish of Colinton, about
4 miles west of Edinburgh, and yields a slaty stone
which is easily worked, and of great value for pave-
ment. Several other quarries of inferior note occur
in various localities. Eocks of the eruptive kinds
are found in every parish of the county, and have
been quarried not only for local buildings, and for
paving the streets of Edinburgh, but for transporta-
tion in considerable quantity to London. Millstones,
petrifactions, and beautiful specimens of marble, are
produced in the parish of Penicuick. Lead was, at
a former date, found on the south side of the Pent-
lands, at the head of the North Esk. Copper is be-
lieved to exist in several parishes; but, though
tried for a time in Currie, is not sufficiently abun-
dant to be remuneratingly worked. Iron is much
more frequent, particularly in the vicinity of coal.
Gems are now very rarely met with, but anciently
were not altogether scarce. The Arthur-seat peb-
ble, a species of jasper, was, at no remote date,
occasionally seen. — Mineral waters, chalybeate and
sulphureous, spring in two localities near Edin-
burgh, in Cramond, Mid-Calder, and Penicuick,
and in various other districts.
However early, during rude and tumultuous ages,
the plough may have been introduced to Mid-
Lothian, agriculture appears to have there made
some progress before the close of the 11th century.
At that epoch, and for ages afterwards, the county
was for the most part covered with forests. But
while the feeding of flocks among the woods and in
vast pastures on the Gala water was pursued by the
opulent, husbandry was practised by the poor. Da-
vid I. raised agriculture in the popular estimation,
and threw around it the dignity and eclat of royal
adoption ; becoming himself the greatest farmer" in
Mid-Lothian, and maintaining many agricultural
establishments. David I. also showed his people
an example of horticulture; and speaks, in his
charter of Holyrood, of his garden under the castle.
Horticulture was generally practised in Scotland
during the Scoto-Saxon period ; and commanded
much attention, in the instance of the royal gardens
of Edinburgh, during the disastrous reign of David
II. But the prevalence of groves and shrubberies
long obstructed, in every shape, the cultivation of
the soil. Edward III. did much to abridge the do-
mination of the forests ; yet even he left large clus-
ters of native oak to spread their dark wings over
the rich plains, and send down their hungry roots
into the productive soil, so late as the 16th century.
While woods lifted their umbrageous covering over
the country, and warriors and freebooters prowled
beneath them to trample upon luxuriance, and break
through the fences reared by the hand of cultiva-
tion, agriculture could not make material progress.
Mills, kilns, and breweries, indeed, were not few in
number, and afforded no unambiguous intimation
that the farmer was quietly and unostentatiously
resisting the soldier, as well as subduing the asper-
ities of the soil. Yet the lower orders of the in-
habitants— those chiefly who practised agriculture
— were the slaves rather than the tenants of the
landowners, and laboured unwillingly for others
rather than willingly for themselves. The tillers
of the ground — especially when coin was scarce,
and the circulation of it nearly unknown — could not,
in consequence, possess sufficient capital to enable
them advantageously, for either their families or the
population around them, to follow the plough. The
tenant, therefore, rented from the landlord — who
copied the example of the freeholders of England—
not only the land but the materials with which it
was stocked; and was bound to deliver up all he
possessed whenever he vacated his farm. The
strange tenure by which the cultivator of the soil
thus held the lauds on which he expended his
labour was called a steelbow, and long and almost
hopelessly obstructed the progress, or rather the be-
ginning, of improvement.
A patient, persevering, and assiduous course of
quiet industry, — a course possessing these proper-
ties in a degree inconceivable by an age of stir and
speculation and rapid evolutions, — was indispensa-
ble in combination with frugal economy to carry
up the value of agricultural capital from the cypher
of the steelbow age, to the flourishing and opulent
period of identity of farmership with independence,
luxury, and social greatness. The era of improve-
ment, to an extent fully visible, was so late as
about the end of the first quarter of the 18th cen-
tury. At that period a society of improvers formed
in Edinburgh, and now, according to the usual in-
gratitude of the world, almost entirely forgotten,
issued agricultural instructions, and illustrated
them by example. Other parties, near and after
the same date, followed in their wake. In par-
ticular, Sir James Macgill, and, 60 years later, Sir
John Dick of Prestonfield in Duddingston, carted
away manure from Edinburgh, and demonstrated
how, by artificial appliances, a barren soil may be
converted into the seat of luxuriance and agricul-
tural wealth and beauty. At later dates, down
toward the close of the 18th century, Sir John
Dalrymple of C'ousland, Hamilton of Fala, Thomas
Hope of Eankeilor, and the Duke of Buccleuch,
aided or directed by Dr. Carlyle of Inveresk and
Dr. Irvine of Dalkeith, achieved great improve-
ments in the introduction of grasses and succulents,
of hedges and ditches, and of economical ploughs
and well-adapted implements of husbandry.
The present state of agriculture in the county is
as high and prosperous as modern science and
capital can well desiderate. A territory around the
metropolis is extensively laid out in nurseries and
garden-grounds, and is maintained or forced in its
luxuriance by the importation of manure from the
city. A district beyond is distributed chiefly into
potato fields, enriched and supported by the same
manurial appliance; and this district, patched with
spots of the former territory, has been extended away
westward, in consequence of the facilities for con-
veying manure which have been afforded by the
opening and traffic of the Union canal. The ulterior
and larger parts of the arable division of the county
are laid for crops of wheat, barley, oats, pease, beans,
potatoes, summer tares, rye-grass, and clover. In
the moorlands, though a few miles of ascent from
the plain reveals a difference of almost as many
weeks in the date of harvest, cultivation rapidly ex-
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
591
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
tends, striding along heath and bog, and even mak-
ing a considerable ascent up the acclivities of the
hills. Well-constructed fences, sheltering planta-
tions, draining, manuring, and all the arts of im-
provement, are contributing their quota to enhance
the opulence of the wealthy soils, and confer value
and ornament upon the poor. The farmers are
well-educated, experimental, generally affluent, and
distinguished by the bearing of independence and
reflection.
The agricultural statistics of Edinburghshire were
obtained, for the year ending in the harvest of 1846,
under the direction of the Lords of the Committee of
Privy Council for Trade. The total area represented
in these was found to be 176,874 acres, 1 rood, 35
poles, Scotch measure; and of this 8,182 a. 2 r. 28 p.
were under wheat, 9,108 a. 1 r. 31 p. under barley,
82 a. 8 p. under rye, 21,661 a. 2 r. 9 p. under oats,
928 a. 3 r. 10 p. under beans, 380 a. 1 r. 18 p. under
pease, 6,625 a. 1 r. 23 p. under potatoes, 9,374 a. 10 p.
under turnips, carrots, and mangel wurzel, 3,537 a.
1 r. 29 p. under clover, tares, lucern, and artificial
grasses, 7,591 a. 1 r. 7 p. under hay, 663 a. 3 r. 21 p.
under other crops, 88,414 a. 1 r. 12 p. in pasturage,
1,829a. 38 p. in fallow, 7,200 a. 1 r. 15 p. underwood,
8,720 a. 2 r. 4 p. waste, and 1,297 a. 2 r. 12 p. of allow-
ance for the difference between inside and outside
measure. And the number of cattle was 4,693
cows, 9,638 other bovine animals, 68,797 sheep, and
3,075 swine. Another set of statistics, on a differ-
ent plan, was obtained, for the year 1S54, under the
direction of the Highland and Agricultural Society.
The gross produce comprised 262,128 bushels of
wheat, 454,116 bushels of barley, 868,376 bushels
of oats, 1,582 bushels of bere or bigg, 48,468 bushels
of beans, 245,762 tons of turnips, and 26,212 tons of
potatoes. The average produce per imperial acre
was 32 bushels 1 peck of wheat, 40 bushels 2 pecks
of barley, 38 bushels of oats, 31 bushels 2 pecks of
bere or bigg, 31 bushels 1 peck of beans, 17 tons 4
cwt. of turnips, and 4 tons 15 cwt. of potatoes.
And the number of cattle was 4,582 horses, 5,430
milk cows, 7,784 other bovine animals, 2,540 calves,
SS^o ewes, gimmers, and ewe-hogs, 26,148 tups,
wethers, and wether-hogs, and 6,403 swine.
The landed property, on the whole, is well di-
vided ; yet a considerable number of the estates are
rather large. Farms are of various sizes, but gen-
erally of an extent to suit well the present practices
of husbandry. The usual time for leases is nine-
teen years. The old valued rental was £15,921.
The real rental of land in 1810-1811, was £277,828;
in 1861-2, £387,310. The yearly value of assessed
property in 1815, was £770,865; in 1843, £1,057,562.
The average of the fiar prices from 1854 to
1860, was for first wheat, 49s. llfd. ; for second
wheat, 46s. 10£d.; for firet barley, 35s. 6Jd. ; for
second barley, 32s. 8f d. ; for third barley, 30s. l£d. ;
for first oats, 26s. Id.; for second oats, 23s. 9fd.;
for pease and beans, 41s. 5^rl. ; and for oatmeal.
19s. 2Jd. Farm labourers get 9s. or 10s. of
weekly wages ; young unmarried men, living as
farm-servants in the farm-house, receive from £5 to
£7 a-year, with bed and board ; and married farm-
servants, or hinds, get £16 in money, 6 J bolls of
meal, 3 bolls of potatoes, a house and garden, coals
driven, and one month's meat in harvest.
During the reigns of the earliest Scoto-Saxon
kings, the people must have enjoyed the benefit of
those domestic fabrics without which society can
hardly exist. Yet at that period manufactories were
represented only by the achievements of handicrafts-
men. The making of salt and the art of distilla-
tion, were the sole and miserable indications of pro-
gress at the demise of Alexander III. During the
14th and 15th centuries, an independent but rained
nation scarcely enjoyed the most common handi-
crafts ; nor could two centuries of distractions, sub-
sequent to the reign of James I., give much energy
to the incipient, the hardly-existing, manufactures
of the county. Legislation, during that period, vain-
ly interposed encouragements to men without skill
or capital or social support to engage in the useful
labours of the loom ; and even after the Restoration
it strove assiduously, but without success, to intro-
duce various manufactures. A hundred and forty
years ago, or little more, the fabrication of linen was,
almost perceptibly and on a very small scale, intro-
duced. The board of trustees for encouraging manu-
factures in North Britain, aided by several of the
nobility and gentry, soon made a strong and favour-
able impression. In 1729 a number of Dutch bleach-
ers from Haarlem commenced a bleachfield on the
Water of Leith, a few miles west from Edinburgh ;
and soon exhibited to the gaze and the imitation of
Scotland the printing and stamping of all colours.
Extensive bleachfields were afterwards formed in
the neighbourhood of the city, and on the banks of
the Esk, particularly in the parish of Lasswade. A
very large establishment for the preparation of
linen-yarn was also erected at Kirkhill, south from
Edinburgh. Various kinds of fabrics are at present
woven, though not by any means to an amount
proportioned to the bulk and facilities of the county,
in Edinburgh, Leith, and Musselburgh. At Stobbs
and Eoslin are the only manufactories of gunpowder
in Scotland.
Mid-Lothian, however, while possessing high ad-
vantages equal or superior to those of many a dis-
trict whose manufacturing industry has made its
weavers princes, and has covered its surface with a
swarming population, is exceedingly and almost un-
accountably deficient in the amount and spirit of its
manufactories. Its principal factorial produce con-
sists of soap, candles, shoes, glass, intoxicating li-
quors, pottery, leather, iron, paper, and books. A
massive, handsome, quadrangular edifice, erected in
1841, on the banks of the Union canal, at the western
outskirts of Edinburgh, introduced the manufacture
of silk into the county, but not with any better effect
than the previous introduction of the manufactories
of flax and wool. And as to the manufacture of
cotton, Edinburghshire knows next to nothing.
Home-made paper, however, first issued from this
county ; and is now manufactured at Lasswade,
Balerno, Melville, Penicuick, Colinton, Polton,
Auchindinny, and various other places on the waters
of Leith and Esk, occupying 16 mills, and employ-
ing about 4,000 hands; and, though not abie to
compete in the finer qualities with the paper of the
south of England, it supplies nearly all Scotland
with the best material for the press. Edinburgh-
shire, viewed in the aggregate, is far from being a
manufacturing district, and appears by its factorial
produce, rather to apologize for its indolence, or its
aristocratic spirit, or its fondness for luxuriating in
the wealth and finery of its landscape, than to offer
competition to the plodding and matter-of-fact dis-
tricts of the kingdom.
Edinburgh is the only royal burgh in Mid-
Lothian. Leith, Portobello, and Musselburgh, are
municipal and parliamentary burghs. Dalkeith is
a burgh of barony. Canongate and Portsburgh were
burghs of regality, but are now incorporated with
Edinburgh. The villages and hamlets are Water of
Leith, Dean, Momingside, Wardie, Granton, David-
son's Mains, Cramond, Corstorphine, Gogar, New-
bridge, Bonnington, Piatho, Colinton, Hailes' Quar-
ry, Juniper-Green, Slateford, Swanston, Longstone,
Currie, Balemo, Hermiston, Kirknewton, East
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
592
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
Calder, Wilkinston, Bell's Quarry, Mid-Calder,
West Calder, Trinity, Newhaven, Restalrig, Jock's
Lodge, Duddingston, East Duddingston, West Dud-
dingston, Joppa, inveresk, Cowpits, Craighall,
Monkton-hall, Stoney-hall, New Craighall, Gilmer-
ton, Morton, Niddry, Niddrymill, Adamsrow, Clay-
barns, Edmonston, New Engine, Old Engine, Easter
Millerhill, Wester Millerhill, Pentecox, Redrow,
Sheriffhall, Engine, Squaretown, Lugton, White-
hill, Chesterhill, Sauchenside, Preston, Cowsland,
Crichton, Patlihead, Fala, Faladam, Stow, Clay-
house, Dewarton, Middleton, North Middleton,
Newlandrig, Stobbsmills, Gorebridge, Easthouses,
Newbattle, Stobhill, Westhouses, Bonnyrig, Dal-
housie, Gowkshill, Hillhead, Hunterfield, Polton-
street, Prestonholm, Sliiltymoor, Stobhill-Engine,
Westmill, Carrington, Thornton, Whitefaugh, Lass-
wade, Loanhead, Rosewell, Roslin, Penicuiek, How-
gate, and Kirkhill. Among the principal seats are
Dalkeith-palace, the Duke of Buccleuch ; Dudding-
ston-house, the Marquis of Abercorn ; Dalhousie-
castle, the Earl of Dalbousie ; Newbattle-abbey,
the Marquis of Lothian; Dalmahoy-house, the Earl
of Morton ; Oxenford-castle, the Earl of Stair; Mel-
ville-castle, Viscount Melville ; Calder-house, Lord
Torphichen; Colinton - house, Lord Dunfermline;
Eoseberry, the Earl of Eoseberry; Bellwood and
Dun-Edin, Baroness Sempill ; Hailes-house, the
Rev. Sir William H. Carmichael, Bart.; Peuieuick-
house, Sir George Clerk, Bart.; Prestonfield, Sir W.
H. Dick Cunyngham, Hart.; Greenhill, Sir John
Stuart Forbes, Bart.; Woodhall and Milburn -tower.
Sir J. L. Foulis, Bart.; Pinkie-house, Sir Archibald
Hope, Bart.; Grange-house, Sir John Dick Lauder,
Bait.; Ravelston, Sir P. Keith Murray, Bart.; Gil-
merton-house, Sir David Baird, Bart.; Riccarton-
house, Sir W. Gibson Craig, Bait.; Hawthornden,
Sir James Walker Di-ummond, Bart.; Beeciiwood,
Sir David Dundas, Bart.; Comiston, Sir John For-
rest, Bart.; Clifton-hall, Sir A. C. G. Maitland,
Bart; Bruntsfield house, Sir John Warrender, Bart.;
Arniston, Robert Dundas, Esq.; Niddry, Andrew
Wauchope, Esq.; Morton - hall, Richard Trotter,
Esq.; Edmonston, John Waucliope, Esq.; White-
hill, R. B. Wardlaw Ramsay, Esq.; Calderhall, S.
B. Hare, Esq.; Woodliouselee, James Tytler, Esq.;
Drum - house ; Harburn ; Redhall ; Craigiehall ;
Braid; Muirhouse; Ravelrig; Craiglockart ; Ba-
berton ; Saugliton ; Vogrie; Malleny; Dreghorn;
Clei-miston; Beechwood; Dryden; Mavisbank ; New
Hailes; and a multitude of others.
The maritime traffic of Mid-Lothian, and also of
East and West Lothian, Peebles-shire, and Selkirk-
shire, is concentrated at Leith, and is of consider-
able extent. Fisherrow or Musselburgh has some
commerce, and is largely a port for fishing-boats.
Newhaven also is a large fish-port ; and both it and
Trinity pier were formerly points of communication
with Fife. Granton is now the chief point of that
communication, and is the station for the railway
ferry, and for the steamers to Stirling, Aberdeen,
and Loudon. The Union canal, stretching between
Edinburgh and the Forth and Clyde canal at a point
near Falkirk, traverses the parishes of St. Cuthbert's,
Colinton, Currie, Ratho, and Kirkliston. The Edin-
burgh and Glasgow railway runs in the same direc-
tion as the canal, intersecting the county a little
farther to the north. The Caledonian railway goes
off from the capital south-westward, through the
parishes of St. Cuthbert's, Colinton, Currie, Kirk-
newton, Mid-Calder, and West-Calder, traversing
the south-eastern wing of the county to nearly its
utmost extremity. The Edinburgh, Perth, and
Dundee railway, in its short course to Granton and
North Leith, traverses the parishes of St. Andrew's,
St. Mary's, St. Cuthbert's, North Leith, and Cra-
mond. The North British railway sends off its
main trunk eastward, through the parishes of
Trinity - College, Canongate, South Leith, Dud-
dingston, and Inveresk; its Hawick branch south-
eastward, through the parishes of Liberton, New-
ton,_ Dalkeith, Newbattle, Cockpen, Borthwick,
Heriot, and Stow; and its Peebles communication
from Eskbank south-westward, through the par-
ishes of Cockpen, Carrington, and Penicuiek. All
the great lines of road in the county diverge from
the metropolis. One leading to Haddington, Ber-
wick-upon-Tweed, and the east of England, runs
down to Portobello, and thence proceeds along the
shore. Another leading to Lauder, passes through
Dalkeith, and leaves the county near the village of
Fala. A third, leading through Selkirk and Ha-
wick to Carlisle, and through Jedburgh to New-
castle-on-Tyne, passes a little to the west of Dal-
keith, and traverses the parishes of Newbattle,
Borthwick, Heriot, and Stow, running along the
banks of Gala water from near its source till, in its
company, it leaves the county. A fourth, leading
to Peebles, breaks off from the former in the parish
of Liberton, and thence intersects the parishes of
Lasswade and Penicuiek. A fifth, leading to Big-
gar and Dumfries, goes through the village of
Momingside, skirts the eastern part of the parish
of Colinton, and intersects the parishes of Glencorse
and Penicuiek. A sixth, leading to Lanark, passes
through the villages of Slateford and Currie, and
leaves the county near Crosswoodhill. A seventh,
leading to Glasgow by way of Whitburn, passes
through the villages of Hermiston, East-Calder, and
Mid-Calder. An eighth, leading to Glasgow by
way of Bathgate, passes the village of Corstorphine,
and leaves the county a mile south of the village of
Kirkliston ; and it send i off, in the parish of Cor-
storphine, a slightly diverging branch which leads
to Linlithgow and Falkirk. The ninth and last
great line of road passes through the metropolitan
suburb of the Dean, and intersects the parish of
Cramond, leading on to Queensferry, there to com-
municate by steam- boat across the Forth with the
great road to Perth. Every part of the county, or
at least its non-pastoral districts, is freely intersect-
ed with intermediate and cross roads.
Edinburghshire sends one member to parliament;
and has its polling-places at Edinburgh, Dalkeith,
and Mid-Calder. The parliamentary constituency
in 1861 was 1,904. The city of Edinburgh also
sends two members ; and Leith, Portobello, and
Musselburgh, conjointly send one. The court of
lieutenancy is divided into six districts. The sheriff
courts are held in the County Buildings at Edin-
burgh ; and a sheriff court for the Leith district,
which comprises the parishes of North Leith and
Duddingston, and the greater part of the parish of
South Leith, is held every Tuesday in the court-
room in Constitution street, Leith. The sheriff
small debt court is held at Edinburgh on every
Wednesday and Friday, and at Leith on every Tues-
day. The sheriff circuit court is held at Dalkeith
on the third Thursday of every month. The justice
of peace small debt, court is held at Edinburgh on
every Monday. The police force, in 1861, was 47 ;
the salary of the chief constable was £400; and the
police stations were Jock's Lodge, Portobello, Dud-
dingston, Musselburgh, Dalkeith, Patlihead, Gore-
bridge, Stow, Penicuiek, Birdiehouse, Lasswade, Gil-
merton, Slateford, Currie, Kirknewton, West Calder,
Mid-Calder, East Calder, Ratho, Corstorphine, Da-
vidson's-Mains, Coltbridge, Granton, Newhaven,
Newton-grange, Milton-cottages, Roslin, Miller-hill,
Carrington, and Newbridge. The number of com-
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
593
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
mittals for crime, in the year, within the county, was
556 in the average of 1836-40, 600 in the average of
1841-45, 729 in the average of 1846-50, 631 in the
average of 1851-55, and 547 in the average of 1856-60.
The total number of prisoners in the jails on the
Calton-hill of Edinburgh during the year ending 30th
June 1860, was 4,813 ; the average duration of their
confinement 26 days; the net cost per head, £15 14s.
6d. The total of prisoners in the cells of the court-
buildings, in the same year, was 805 ; the average
duration of confinement, 5 days ; the net cost per
head, £15 9s. 7d. The number of registered poor
in the year 1851-2 was 8,802 ; in the year 1859-60
8,962. The number of casual poor in 1851-2 was
4,217; in 1859-60, 3,761. The sum expended on the
registered-poor in 1851-2 was £46,869 ; in 1859-60,
£59,060. The sum expended on the casual poor in
1851-2, was £2,337; in 1859-60, £1,713. The assess-
ment for prisons, in 1861, was fd. per £1 ; for police
and rogue-money, ljd.; for militia expenses, ljd.
The births in 1856 were 8,650,— in 1860, 8,941; the
marriages in 1856, 2,034,— in 1860, 2,311; the
deaths, in 1856, 6,324,— in 1860, 6,454. The per-
centage of illegitimate births in 1858 was 8-2 ; in
1860, 8-3. Population in 1801, 122,597; in 1811,
148,607; in 1821, 191,514; in 1831, 219,345; in
1841,225,454; in 1851, 259,435; in 1861,273,997.
Males, in 1861, 126,390; females, 147,607. Inhabit-
ed houses in 1811, 24,162; uninhabited, 802; build-
ing, 308. Total of rooms in 1861, 1S5.806; number
of rooms to each family, 2-9; number of persons
to each room, 1-4; total of scholars of all ages,
47.617.
There are in Edinburghshire 48 quoad civilia
parishes, and part of two others. There are also
8 quoad sacra parishes, and 8 chapels of ease.
Two of the parishes and one of the parts are in the
presbytery of Linlithgow; 17 of the parishes and
the other of the parts, together with one parish of
Haddingtonshire, constitute the presbytery of Dal-
keith ; and the rest of the parishes constitute the
presbytery of Edinburgh, — all in the Synod of Lo-
thian and Tweeddale. In 1851, the number of places
of worship within the county was 230; of which 66
belonged to the Established church, 49 to the Free
church, 40 to the United Presbyterian church, 2 to
the Reformed Presbyterian church, 3 to the Original
Seceders, 16 to the Episcopalians, 14 to the Inde-
pendents, 9 to the Baptists, 1 to the Society of
Friends, 1 to the Unitarians, 6 to the Wesleyan
Methodists, 1 to the Primitive Methodists, 1 to the
Glassites, 1 to the New church, 13 to isolated con-
gregations, 5 to the Bom an Catholics, 1 to the
Catholic and Apostolic church, and 1 to the Jews.
The number of sittings in 48 of the Established
places of worship was 35,735 ; in 43 of the Free
church places of worship, 28,580 ; in 34 of the United
Presbyterian meeting-houses, 27,535 ; in the 2 Re-
formed Presbyterian meeting-houses, 940 ; in 11 of
the Episcopalian chapels, 4,656; in 10 of the Inde-
pendent chapels, 6,720; in 6 of the Baptist chapels,
3,096 ; in the six Wesleyan Methodist chapels,
2,125; in 7 of the places belonging to isolated con-
gregations, 1,320 ; and in the other reported places
of worship, the numbers noted in the statistic sec-
tion of our article on Edinburgh. The maximum
attendance, on the Census Sabbath, at 53 of the
Established places of worship was 15,264 ; at 46 of
the Free church places of worship, 18,858 ; at 36 of
the United Presbyterian meeting-houses, 17,462; at
the two Beformed Presbyterian meeting-houses,
610 ; at 14 of the Episcopalian chapels, 3,608; at 13
of the Independent chapels, 3,318; at the 9 Baptist
chapels, 1 ,742 ; at the 6 Wesleyan Methodist cha-
pels, 925 ; at the 13 meeting-bouses of isolated con-
I
gregations, 750 ; at the 5 Eoman Catholic chapels.
2,650; and at the other reported places of worship,
the numbers noted in the statistic section of our
article on Edinburgh. There were in 1851, in Ed-
inburghshire, 232 public day-schools, attended by
15,465 males and 13,793 females, — 167 private day-
schools, attended by 4,103 males and 3,918 females,
— 61 evening schools for adults, attended by 1,510
males and 632 females, — and 321 Sabbath schools,
attended by 12.734 males and 14,462 females.
The antiquities of Mid-Lothian, most instructive
and valuable, though least noticed and but partially
interesting, are the traces, in the names of its locali-
ties, of the presence and influence successively of
the Britons, the Eomans, the Anglo-Saxons, and
the Scoto-Irish. The Ottadini and the Gadeni,
the British descendants of the first colonists, enjoy-
ed their original land during the second century,
and left memorials of their existence in the names
of the Forth, the Almond, the Esk, the Leith, the
Breich, the Gore, and the Gogar, and of Cramond,
Cockpen, Dalkeith, Dreghom, Inch-keith, Boslin,
and Pendreich. The Bomans, though untraceable
in the topographical nomenclature, have left roads,
encampments, baths, and sepulchres sufficient to
attest their temporary dominance. The Anglo-Sax-
ons, who came into Mid-Lothian in fewer numbers
than into Berwickshire and East-Lothian, have be-
queathed a much smaller proportion of names than
in the latter counties, but have left sufficient indi-
cations of their presence in the names Stow, New-
battle, and Lasswade, and in the occurrence in the
south and south-east of Law, Mig, Dod, Shiel, Lee,
Lean, Hope, Sam, Burgh, Law, Oleugh, and Holm.
But there does not occur in the county the word
Fell, applied to a mountain, or any intimation of the
presence at any period of a Scandinavian people.
The Scoto-Irish, who came in from the west, and
acquired entire ascendency, are abundantly com-
memorated in the local nomenclature, and have be-
queathed Gaelic names too numerous to be exhibited
in a list, and so obvious as to be noticeable by even
a careless observer. The Gaelic names were im-
posed partly after the year 843, when the Scottish
period commenced; but chiefly, perhaps, after the
year 1020, when Lothian was ceded to the Scottish
king. Owing, probably, to the comparatively re-
cent superinduction of English names upon Gaelic
ones, the proportion of Anglo-Saxon in the nomen-
clature of the county is about four times more than
that of the Celtic or British.
British antiquities, though not abundant, occa-
sionally occur. Druidical circles appear in the par-
ish of Ivirknewton and on Heriot-town-hill. Cairns,
which may be regarded as funeral monuments of
the Britons, exist in the parishes of Borthwick and
Colinton. Tumuli, which mark the scenes of Brit-
ish conflict, and whence stone coffins were dug, oc-
cur in the parish of Mid-C'alder, and were levelled
at dates not remote in the parishes of Newbattle and
Lasswade. Oval or circular camps, indicating by
their form that they owed their construction to the
Britons, may be traced, or are still of conspicuous
outline, in the parishes of Penicuick, Borthwick,
Crichton, Lasswade, and Liberton. Strengths,
which probably were, in their original shape, fort-
lets of the Britons, are the maiden castles of Roslin
and Edinburgh. The caves of Hawthornden,
though improved by warriors of a later date, were
very likely hiding-places of the British tribes. — The
Eomans, who entered Mid-Lothian toward the con-
clusion of the first century, and did not finally re-
tire from it till after the lapse of 360 years, seized
the best places of defence, and secured their power
by a ramification of camps, forts, and roads, which
2p
EDINBURGHSHIRE .
594
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
have left so numerous traces as to draw largely on
attention in minute topographical description ; and
they reared altars, haths, granaries, and other
works of art, which still occasionally meet the eye,
and dropped innumerable coins and weapons and
other minor relics, which have for generations ar-
rested the delighted gaze of many an antiquary, and
continue, to the present hour, to be not unfrequently
disclosed to view in turning up the soil. — The An-
glo-Saxons and the Scots bequeathed numerous cas-
tles and strengths, many of which have totally dis-
appeared, while others are wholly or partially in a
ruinous condition. The most remarkable are Craig-
millar castle, in the vicinity of Edinburgh ; Crichton
castle, 10 miles south-east of Edinburgh; Borth-
wick castle, 2 miles farther south ; Dalhousie castle,
in the parish of Cockpen; Hawthomden and Roslin
castles, in the parish of Lasswade ; Kavensnook
castle, in the parish of Penicuick ; Dalkeith castle,
now obliterated by the hand of modern improve-
ment; Cousland castle, in the parish of Cranston;
Lennox tower, in the parish of Currie; Catcune
castle, on the Gore water; Locherwart castle, near
the sources of the Tyne; Luggate castle, on Lug-
gate water ; and Fala tower, on the northern side of
Fala moss. Many of these form the subject of sep-
arate articles in the present work. Of all the castles,
Craigmillar, both for the beauty of its situation, and
for its extensive means of defence, is most worthy
of notice. See Craigmillar Castle.
The ecclesiastical antiquities of the metropolis
and its suburbs are numerous and interesting, and
are noticed in the article on Edinburgh. Extensive
monasteries existed at Newbattle and Temple.
C'orstorphine church, and the church of Duddingston,
are curious remains, still in use, of a considerably
high antiquity. On Soutra hill, united to an Edin-
burghshire parish, are vestiges of an ancient hospital.
In the parish of Cranston are the ruins of some
buildings and enclosures which are conjectured to
have been monastic. But the most beautiful ecclesi-
astical relic of antiquity out of Edinburgh, is Eoslin
chapel, in the parish of Lasswade : See Eoslin. —
The Roman legionaries, who delighted to dwell
along the salubrious shores of Mid-Lothian, possi-
bly enjoyed, to some extent, the surpassingly rich
religious benefits of the Christian dispensation. The
Saxon colonists of the county derived much reli-
gious instruction from the efforts of Baldred, and
from the more excursive and productive labours of
Cuthbert. The bishopric of Lindisfarn, established
in 635, appears to have included Mid-Lothian ; but
was obliged permanently to renounce it at the abdi-
cation of the authority of the Northumbrian Saxons.
After the ascendency of the Scottish kings the
county was annexed to the bishopric of St. Andrews,
and continued to be attached to it till the period of
the Reformation. Under the reforming processes of
David I., the churches of Edinburghshire were
probably placed under the subordinate authority of
the deans of Lothian and Linlithgow. Anciently,
the archdeacons and deans of Lothian were persons
of great consideration, and acted a conspicuous part
in national affairs; rising, in many instances, to the
rank of bishops, serving occasionally as chancellors
of the King ; and one of them wore the hat and the
dignity of cardinal. The office of archdeacon, how-
ever, became eventually merged in that of the official
of Lothian. This was a person who ranked high,
and wielded prodigious influence; and lie usually
resided in Edinburgh, and acted a conspicuous part
in the public conventions and the royal councils.
In general, the ecclesiastical affairs of the county
were fitfully managed till the Reformation freed
tliem from the noxious influences of the Romish
superstitions and errors, and placed them under the
popular regimen of presbyteries and synods. In
1633, Charles I., in the prosecution of his wild
scheme for imposing episcopacy upon the reformed
and presbyterian Scottish people, erected Edinburgh
into a bishopric, and gave the incumbent prelatic
domination over all Mid-Lothian, and various other
territories ; but though he thus, at the latest prac-
ticable hour, technically raised the metropolis to
the dignity of a city, he could not prevent the new
bishopric, only five years after its erection, from
falling permanently to ruin amid the summary
overthrow of the whole episcopalian fabric of the
kingdom.
Fields of battle, with the reminiscences which
they suggest, hold a middle place between antiqui-
ties and history, and partake the character of both.
Every foot of ground covered by the metropolis and
its environs, and many a spot throughout the county,
were the scenes of sanguinary contests which, in
many instances, involved the fate of the kingdom.
Places in which the successive colonists, conquerors,
and lords of the ascendant during the lapse of thir-
teen centuries, fought for victory or possession, are
either identified with the castle and town of Edin-
burgh, or so obscurely intimated as to be, in a great
degree, matter of conjecture. Near Eoslin, in the
parish of Lasswade, a Scottish army of from 8,000
to 10,000, led by Sir Simon Fraser and Sir John
Cumyn, achieved three successive victories, on the
14th of February, 1303, over an aggregate English
force of 30,000 men under Ralph Confrey, treasurer
to Edward I. The Borough-moor, in the vicinity
of Edinburgh, was, in 1334, the scene, after a des-
perate conflict, of the utter discomfiture and disper-
sion of an English force under Count Guy of
Naumur, by the Scottish patriots the Earls of
Murray and March, Sir Alexander Ramsay, and
their followers. A spot in the parish of Crichton
witnessed, in 1337, another sharp conflict between
the Scotch and English troops ; and various other
localities in the county were drenched with blood
during the sanguinary and prolonged wars of the
succession. Sir Alexander Ramsay of Dalwolsie,
the ancestor of the present noble family of Dalhousie,
often sallied from the caves of Hawthomden, and
chased the mercenary forces of England from the
vicinity of the metropolis. In 1385, Mid-Lothian
was, in many places, devastated by pillage and con-
flagration during the retaliatory incursion of Rich-
ard II. ; and a century and a half later, it consider-
ably suffered in several localities from the invasions
which were made by England, to resent the disar-
rangement of Henry VIII. 's plan of marrying his
son to the young Scottish Queen. In 1547, the field
of Pinkie, lying between the village of Inveresk and
Walliford and Carberry, witnessed a disastrous on-
slaught, in which 10,000 Scottish troops were killed,
and 1,500 made prisoners, by an English force, com-
manded by the Duke of Somerset. In 1567, Car-
berry-hill, in the parish of Inveresk, was the scene
of a battle array, though not of an actual conflict,
and of the surrender of Queen Mary immediately
prior to her imprisonment in Lochleven-castle. In
1666, on Rullion-green, in the parish of Glencorse,
an armed body of Covenanters twice repulsed a
party of the King's troops under Dalziel ; but, on a
third attack, were routed, and upwards of 50 of them
slain.
The history of Mid-Lothian is, in most particulars,
so identified with that of the metropolis, which has
already been sketched in the article Edinburgh, and
in others has been so anticipated in our views of its
agriculture, antiquities, and fields of battle, that
little remains to be told except the facts which refer
EDINBURGHSHIRE.
595
EDNAM.
to territorial distribution, and the erection of the
district into a county. Mid-Lothian, very probably,
was placed under the salutary regimen of a sheriff,
as early as the epoch of the introduction of the
Scoto-Saxon laws. A sheriffdom is apparent from
the reign of Malcolm IV. down to the restoration of
David II.; and appears, during this period, to have
extended over Haddingtonshire on the east, and
Linlithgowshire on the west. But from the time
of David II., down to its adjustment in its present
form, the sheriffdom or shire suffered successive
limitations; in every age it was abridged in its
authority b}r various jurisdictions within its bounds;
and, for a considerable period, it was confused in its
administration by distribution into wards, each of
which was superintended by a sergeant. In August,
1744, James, Earl of Lauderdale, . succeeded his
father in the sheriffdom, and was the last who held
the office under the old regime. The first sheriff
under the present improved practice, was Charles
Maitland of Pitrichie, who received his appointment
in 1748, with a salary of £250. A constable was
attached, from an early period, to the castle of Edin-
burgh; and, as early as 1278, appears to have
exercised civil jurisdiction. — From the year 1482,
the provost of Edinburgh had the power of sheriff,
coroner, and admiral, within the territories of the
city, and those of its dependency of Leith. — The
abbot of Holyrood acquired from Robert III. a right
of regality over all the lands of the abbey, wherever
situated, and particularly wer the barony of Brough-
ton in Mid-Lothian. The jurisdiction was acquired
after the Reformation by the trustees of Heriot's
hospital, and, at the epoch of the abolition of heredi-
tary jurisdictions, was compensated by £486 19s. 8d.
— The monks of Dunfermline obtained from David
I. baronial jurisdiction over the manor of Inveresk,
including the town and port of Musselburgh, and
maintained their lordship and regality till the period
of the Reformation. The jurisdiction was bestowed
by James VI. upon Sir John Maitland, sold in 1709
to the Duchess of Buccleuch, and eventually com-
pensated, in common with all the baronial jurisdic-
tions of the Buccleuch family, by £3,400. — The
regality of Dalkeith -was obtained by the Douglases
of Lothian ; passed into the possession of the family
of Buccleuch; and ceased in 1747. — The barony of
Eatho, when Robert II. ascended the throne, was
erected, in common with the other estates of the
Stuarts, into a royal jurisdiction, and given by
Robert III. to his son James; and it was disjoined
from Mid-Lothian and annexed to Renfrewshire,
when the sheriffdom of Renfrew was settled by dis-
memberment from Lanarkshire. — The extensive
estates in Mid-Lothian which belonged to the arch-
bishop of St. Andrews were erected into a regality,
and were under the control of a bailie appointed by
the proprietor. — The baronies or lands of Dudding-
ston, of Preston-hall, of Carrington, and of Carberry,
were also all regalities administered, in the case of
the first, by a bailie, and in the case of the others,
respectively by the Duke of Gordon, Lord Dalmeny,
and Sir Robert Dickson. — In addition to all the
privileged authorities now enumerated — which in
the aggregate must have greatly embarrassed the
civil administration of the county — there existed
from the reign of Malcolm IV., a justiciary of
Lothian, who exercised a greater power than even
the sheriff", and must have very materially abridged
and restrained the jurisdiction of the sheriffship.
The power of the Archbishop of St. Andrews, both
baronial and ecclesiastical, must likewise have
thrown impediments continually in the way of the
sheriffs movements ; and even after the Reformation,
when prelacy and its appliances were abolished,
continued for a time to be perpetuated as to its
effects. The overthrow of all hereditary jurisdic-
tions, in 1747, was one of the happiest events in the
diversified history of Mid-Lothian.
EDINGTON CASTLE, an ancient fortalice, of
which the southern side still remains, 2 miles caet
of the village of Chirnside, in Berwickshire.
EDINK1LLIE. See Edenkjllie.
EDINKLENS. See Innerwick.
EDINSHALL, a curious, quondam, ancient
tower, now levelled with the ground, on the north
side of Cockburnlaw, hi Berwickshire. It is sup-
posed to have been erected in the 7th century by
the first Saxon invaders of Britain. See Cockbukn-
LAW.
EDINVILLE, a hamlet in the parish of Dallas,
Morayshire. Population, 17.
EDLESTON. See Eddlestoxe.
EDMONSTONE, a village and an estate in the
parish of Newton, 4 miles south-east of Edinburgh.
The village stands contiguous to the village of
Woolmet, and shares with that village and with
other villages in the vicinity the character of rows
of red-tiled cottages, grotesquely chequering the
landscape. Population, 143. The mansion of Ed-
monstone, in the midst of a finely wooded park, is
in the neighbourhood of the village. The estate of
Edmonstone has belonged since the beginning of
the 18th century to the family of Wauchope; but it
belonged from a remote period till about the begin-
ning of the 17th century to the family of Edmon-
stone, who are said to have come to Scotland with
the queen of Malcolm Camnore. An owner of it in
the latter part of the 17th century was a senator of
the college of justice under the name of Lord Ed-
monstone. There are very extensive coal-mines on
tllG GStfttP
EDMONSTONE-EDGE. See Pinkie.
EDNAM, a parish, containing a village of the
same name, on the northern verge of Roxburgh-
shire. It is bounded by Berwickshire, and by the
parishes of Sprouston, Kelso, and Stitchell. Its
post-town is Kelso. Its outline approaches the
parallelograraic, lying from south-west to north-
east, but has sinuosities, and expands at the north.
Its greatest length, from Spittal on the south to the
boundary beyond Girth-ridge-ball on the north, is
3J miles ; and its greatest breadth, in a line drawn
over High-ridge-hall, is 2f . The Tweed forms the
south-east boundary-line; and the Eden intersects
the parish from east to west, dividing it into not
very unequal parts. Along the banks of both rivers
are beautiful and rich low grounds. The district,
as a whole, is low and level, but delightfully diver-
sified. The generally flat ground gently rises, in
some places, into inclined plains ; and, in two spots,
swells into fine elevations, one near the village
called Ednani hill, and the other between the
Tweed and the Eden called Henderside hill. The
land is among the best in the Merse, and is well-
cultivated, well-enclosed, and agreeably variegated
with plantation. There are five landowners. The
only mansion is Henderside-park. The yearly
value of raw produce was estimated in 1839 at
.£15,395. Assessed property in 1843, £8,329 7s. 5d.
There are three corn-mills and a brewery. The
parish is traversed along the Tweed, by the road
from Kelso to Coldstream, and through its centre
by the road from Kelso to Berwick by way of Swin-
ton. James Thomson, the author of ' The Seasons,'
and the son of the first minister of the parish after
the Revolution, was born in 1700, in the manse of
Ednam. An obelisk to his memory, 52 feet high,
and built in 1820, stands on a rising ground about
a mile from the village. Ednam village is beauti-
EDRINGTON CASTLE.
596
EDZELL.
fully situated on the Eden, 2J miles north-east of
Kelso. In 1558, it was burnt by the earl of North-
umberland. The name is a contraction of Eden-
ham, — a word signifying the village on the Eden,
and appropriately descriptive. Population of the
parish in 1831, 637; in 1851, 658. Houses, 123.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kelso, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend, £158 6s. 8d.; glebe, £15 Is. 8d.
The parish-church was built in 1800. Sittings
about 260. Schoolmaster's salary, £34, with about
£35 or £36 school-fees. As early as the 12th cen-
tury, the mother or parish-church of Ednam had
two dependent chapels ; one at Newton, now New-
ton-don ; and the other at Nathanthorn, now Nan-
thorn ; and, along with these chapels, it belonged
to the monks of Kelso. The kings had at Ednam
a mill, whence David, in 1 128, granted to the monks
of Kelso, 12 chalders of malt, with the turbary in
the moor of Ednam.
EDEACHILLIS. See Edderachilms.
EDRADOUE. See Moulin.
EDRICK. See Eldkig.
EDRINGTON CASTLE, a small old ruin, at the
south-eastern verge of the parish of Mordington,
contiguous to the boundary with the Liberties of
Berwick. It is situated on a steep rock, overhang-
ing the Whitadder, and totally inaccessible from the
west. The original castle seems to have been a
solid and substantial strength, well-fitted, in feudal
times, to check incursions and depredations from
the south side of the Tweed. It was frequently the
scene of strife during the Border wars, and was
more than once an item among the objects of treaty
between the Scottish and the English kings. In
1534 Henry VIII., in demonstration of his friend-
ship for Scotland, restored it to James V., from
whom it had been taken during an international
war.
EDROM, a parish, containing the post-office vil-
lages of Edrom and Allanton, in the district of
Merse, Berwickshire. It is bounded by Buncle,
Chirnside, Hutton, Whitsome, Swinton, Fogo, Lang-
ton, and Dunse. In form it presents extreme angles
to the north, south, and east, and would be nearly
an equilateral triangle, but for having a deep inden-
tation and a small wing on the west, and a less con-
siderable indentation on the south-east. Its greatest
length is 7 J miles; its greatest breadth 4 miles; and
its superficial area 1 3 square miles. Except in the
north-west division, where there are inconsiderable
rising grounds, the surface is flat. Whitadder water-
comes down upon the parish at its north-west
angle, and, over a distance of six miles, forms its
northern and north-eastern boundary-line. Black-
adder water comes in from the south-west, forms,
for lj mile, the boundary-line with Fogo, and then
runs 5 miles north-eastward through Edrom, and
falls into the Whitadder at Allanton. Langton-
burn, and another brook flowing from the west,
unite with the Blackadder, the former drawing, for
2J miles, the boundary-line with Dunse. Near
Langton-burn, on the Edrom side, is a mineral
well, called Dunse spa, which was long celebrated
for its reputed medicinal qualities, but has latterly
fallen into disrepute, and become quite neglected.
The soil in a small part of the district is naturally
moorish, but in general is rich and fertile, and, ex-
cepting in about one-eighth of the area, devoted to
plantations, buildings, and roads, is all arable.
Pools arid lochlets formerly generated marsh, and
rendered the climate insalubrious ; but they have
been completely drained, to the benefit alike of
health and of agricultural produce. On the estate
jf Kimmergham on the Blackadder is a valuable
bed of shell-marl, which has contributed much to
the enrichment of neighbouring soils. Sandstone
abounds, and is worked in several quarries. Black-
adder-house, on the right bank of the Blackadder
near its embouchure, is an elegant modern edifice,
accompanied with extensive shrubberies and green-
houses, and a beautiful Gothic conservatory which
was constructed at the cost of several thousand
pounds. Allanbank-house, Kelloe, and Kimmer-
gham, all on the same stream, Broomhouse on the
Whitadder, and Nisbet, a seat of Lord Sinclair, at
the western boundary, are all mansions possessing
the attractions either of architecture or of beautiful
demesne and cheering situation. There are nine
landowners. The real rental is about £16,000.
Assessed property in 1843, £15,020 7s. 9d. Esti-
mated yearly value of raw produce in 1834, £32,500.
The Dunse branch of the North British railway
traverses the parish, and has a station in it. There
are four corn-mills and a saw-mill on the Black-
adder, and two paper-mills on the Whitadder.
There were anciently fortalices at Broomhouse,
Blackadder, and Nisbet, and keeps or bastells at
Kelloe and two or three other places. Allanbank
is celebrated as the scene, in 1674, of a Covenanters'
conventicle, between 3,000 and 4,000 in number, to
whom the eminent and devout ministers, Blackad-
der and Welch, assisted by three of their brethren,
preached and dispensed the Lord's Supper. The
village of Edrom stands in the north-west corner of
the parish, 3;} miles north-east of Dunse, on the
road between that town and Berwick, and is the
seat of the parish-church and delightfully situated.
It is now, and has ever been, a mere hamlet, yet is
a place of much antiquity. Adder or Ader is the
Cambro - British Aioedur, signifying ' a running
stream;' and Ader-ham — first twisted into Eder-
ham, and then abbreviated into Edrom — means ' the
hamlet on the running stream,' and well describes
the position of the village, overlooking the stream
of Whitadder. Population of the parish in 1831,
1,435; in 1851, 1,474. Houses, 271.
This parish is in the presbytery of Chirnside, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £242 16s. 7d. ; glebe, £15. Unappropriated
teinds, £337 13s. lid. Schoolmaster's salary, £34
4s. 4^d., with about £15 school-fees. The parish-
church is supposed to have been built about the
year 1499; and was repaired in 1696, reseated and
repaired in 1782, and subsequently fitted up with
two private galleries. Sittings, 407. There is a
Free church at Allanton : attendance, 558 ; sum
raised in 1854, £202 2s. lid. There are two private
schools, and two or three small public libraries.
Robert Blackadder, first archbishop of Glasgow —
whose family derived its surname from the river of
the parish — built to the ancient church of Edrom
a vaulted aisle, part of which is still standing. The
church, with its lands, was granted by Gospatrick,
Earl of Dunbar, and afterwards confirmed by David
I., to the monks of Coldingham ; and continued to
be held by them, and served by a vicar, till the Re-
formation. During the minority of James V., the
most murderous contests for the lands of Blackadder
continued between the Homes on the one side, and
the Blaekadders of Blackadder on the other, and
violently, though not rightfully, terminated in fa-
vour of the Homes.
EDZELL, a parish partly in Kincardineshire, but
chiefly in Forfarshire. It contains in its Forfar-
shire district, a post-office village of its own name.
It is bounded by Strachan, Fettercairn, Stricka-
throw, Lethnot, and Lochlee. Its length, south-east-
ward, is 12| miles ; and its- greatest breadth is 6J
miles. Its south-eastern part, for 4J miles, is a sort
FFFOCK.
597
EGLINTON.
of peninsula, the East and the West waters flowing
along its limits, and forming a confluence, under the
name of the North Esk, at its extremity. Both of
these streams approach the parish from the west;
the former intersecting it over a distance of 5£
miles in passing to the eastern limit, there to be-
come its boundary line. In the western and north-
ern sections, the parish is hilly; but in the southern
section, and in places traversed by the East water,
it is more open, and well-sheltered with plantation.
The greater part of the parish being bleak and un-
sheltered, the air is generally sharp and piercing,
but is not insalubrious. The Kincardineshire dis-
trict forms about one-seventh of the whole, bears
the name of New Dosk, was formerly a separate
parish, and is the property of Gladstone of Fasque.
The Forfarshire district belongs all to Lord Pan-
mure. So large a proportion of the parish as about
46 square miles is upland, chiefly heath ; and only
about 4,270 acres are arable, — only about 200 under
wood. The yearly value of raw produce was esti-
mated in 1842 at £17,241. Assessed property in
1843, £2,505 2s. 1 Id. Three of those monuments of
antiquity, called Druidical temples, are in this par-
ish; two within a few yards of each other at Culin-
dir, and one at Dalhogg. They consist of tall up-
right stones, enclosing elliptical spaces, the area of
the largest being 45 feet by 36. The castle of Ed-
zell is a magnificent ruin. It consists of two stately
towers, in different styles of architecture, and evi-
dently built at different periods, but connected by
an extensive wall, and formerly winged with build-
ings in the rear. The proprietors of this castle, the
Lindsays of Glenesk, surpassed in power any other
family in Forfarshire. One of them became heir to
his cousin, Earl Crawford, but did not retain the
peerage in his family. Another, about the begin-
ning of the 16th century, built in Edzell a small
castle called Auchmull, and in Lochlee another
called Invermark, and was compelled to burrow in
them as hiding holes from the inquisition made
after him for the murder of Lord Spynie. The par-
ish is provided with two lines of road along the vale
of the East water, one on each bank, and with nu-
merous cross-roads in its peninsular division. The
village of Edzell stands in the lower part of the par-
ish, 6 miles north by west of Brechin. It formerly
bore the name of Slatefbrd. It began to undergo
great improvement in 1839, and is now a beauti-
ful assemblage of neat stone houses, with flower-
plots in front of them, surrounded by pleasant
scenery, and much frequented by summer lodgers.
Fairs are held on the first Monday of May, on the
Friday in July after Aikey, on the Wednesday after
the 26th of August, and on the Friday in October
before Kirriemuir. There are in the parish a wool-
len mill aud about 50 linen looms. Population of
the village, about 397. Population of the parish in
1831, 974; in 1861, 1,025. Houses, 205. Popula-
tion of the Forfarshire portion in 1831, 901 ; in 1861,
968. Houses, 194.
This parish is in the presbytery of Brechin, and
synod of Angus and Mearns." Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £158 6s. 8d.; glebe, £9. Schoolmaster's
salary, £34 4s. 4Jd., with other emoluments £30.
The parish church was built in 1818, and contains
650 sittings. There is a Free church : attendance,
460; sum raised in 1854, £182 7s. 2Jd. There are
a Free church school in the village, and two other
schools at Killoch and New Dosk.
E'EN. See Oyne.
EFFOCK (The), a head-stream of the Forfarshire
North Esk, flowing about 4 miles north-eastward
down Glen-Effock, to a disemboguement about Ik
mile below Lochlee church.
EGG. See Eigg.
EGGEENESS. See Eagerness.
EGILSHAY. See Eagleshay.
EGLINTON CASTLE, a noble mansion, the
seat of the Earl of Eglinton, situated on the banks
of the Lugton, in the south of the parish of Kilwin-
ning, district of Cunningham, 2J miles north of Ir-
vine in Ayrshire, and 26 from Glasgow. This edi-
fice is of a castellated yet modern and very stately
and magnificent structure, and was built about the
year 1798. A spectator, looking upon it from any
part of the lawns, has high conceptions of its gran-
deur, and of the taste and opulence of its proprietor;
and the more minutely he surveys it, he experiences
these conceptions becoming more lofty and brilliant.
There is a large circular keep, and at the corners
are circular turrets joined together by a curtain,—
to use the language of fortification. The whole is
pierced with modern windows, which in some de-
gree destroy the castellated effect, but add to the
internal comfort. The interior of the fabric corre-
sponds with the magnitude and the beauty of its
exterior. From a spacious entrance-hall, a saloon
opens, 36 feet in diameter, the whole height of the
edifice, and lighted from above ; and from this the
principal rooms enter. All the apartments are
spacious, well-lighted, and furnished and adorned
in the most superb manner. One of them in the
front is 52 feet long, 32 wide, and 24 from floor to
ceiling. Every thing about the castle contributes
to an imposing display of splendid elegance and re-
fined taste. Nor are the lawns around it less ad-
mired for their fine woods, varied surfaces, and
beautiful scenery. The park is 1,200 acres in ex-
tent, and has one-third of its area in plantation.
The first of the ancient and originally Norman
family of Montgomery, who settled in Britain, was
Koger de Montgomery, or Mundegumbrie. Under
the banner of William the Conqueror— to whom he
was related — he obtained great distinction ; and,
accompanying that monarch into England, he, in
1066, commanded the van of his army at the battle
of Hastings. In guerdon of his bravery, he was
created Earl of Chichester and Arundel, and after-
wards Earl of Shrewsbury, and, in a short period,
lord of no fewer than 57 lordships throughout Eng-
land; and, at the same time, received extensive
possessions in Salop. Having made a martial in-
cursion into Wales, he captured the castle of Bald-
win, and imposed upon it his own name of Mont-
gomery,— a name which not only it, but the ro-
mantically situated town in its vicinity, and the
entire county in which it stands, have permanent-
ly retained. The first of the family who settled in
Scotland, was Robert de Montgomery. Walter, the
son of Allan, the first steward, having obtained from
David I. several Scottish estates, Eobert accom-
panied him from Wales to take possession of them,
and received from him the manor of Eaglesham in
Renfrewshire. This was, for two centuries, the
chief possession of the Scottish section of the Mont-
gomeries. John de Montgomery, seventh laird of
Eaglesham, married Elizabeth, daughter and sole
heir of Sir Hugh de Eglinton, and niece of King-
Robert II., and obtained through her the baronies
of Eglinton and Ardrossan. At the battle of Otter-
burn he had the command of part of the Scottish
army under the brave Earl of Douglas, and, by his
personal valour and military conduct, contributed
not a little to the celebrated victory which was
achieved. The renowned Henry Percy, well known
by the name of Hotspur, who was general of the
English army, Sir John Montgomery took prisoner
with his own hands ; and with the ransom he re-
ceived for him, he built the castle of rolnoon in
EGLIS.
598
EILDON HILLS.
Renfrewshire. See the article Eaglesham. His
grandson, Sir Alexander Montgomery, was raised
by James II., about 1488, to the title of Lord Mont-
gomery, and inaugurated into the office of king's
bailie of Cunningham. His son, Hugh, was ele-
vated, about 1508, to the title of Earl of Eglinton ;
and, a few years previously, in June, 1498, obtained
a charter to himself and his heirs of the office of
bailie of Cunningham, and chamberlain of the town
of Irvine. About the time of his obtaining this
charter, a feud arose between him and Lord Kil-
maurs, which continued between the families, and
occasionally blazed forth in deeds of violence, and
originated "tedious and fruitless appeals to umpires,
till after the union of the crowns.
Hugh, one of the line of Earls, came into posses-
sion of the earldom when considerably under 16
years of age; and having, for a time, been placed
or rather coercively brought under the euratorship
of his grand uncle, Sir Neil Montgomery, of Lang-
shaw, he eventually enjoyed his inheritance during
only ten months when he fell the victim of his
family's hereditary feud. Hiding from his own cas-
tle, towards Stirling, on the 20th of April, 1586, he
was, at the river Annock, waylaid and shot by Da-
vid Cunningham of Robertland, and other Cunning-
hams, the emissaries of the Earl of Glencairn, the
descendant of Lord Kilmaurs. Though this atro-
cious act of assassination created a strong sensation
throughout the country, and was afterwards partly
punished by Robert, the master of Eglinton, it was
at length, under the feeble and capricious adminis-
tration of the pedant, James VI., formally pardon-
ed. So late as twenty years after this event, on the
1st of July, 1606, the old feud broke out in a violent
tumult at Perth, under the very eyes of parliament
and the privy-council. In the 18th century, all the
valuable improvements in gardening, planting, and
agriculture, which, during half-a-century, were made
in the parish of Kilwinning, and throughout a great
part of Ayrshire, proceeded, in a great measure,
from the spirited exertions, combined with the fine
taste of Alexander, Earl of Eglinton. Nor was his
successor in the peerage less distinguished for his
magnificent and costly, though considerably unsuc-
cessful, schemes to enrich the district of Cunning-
ham, and advance the public weal of Scotland, by
improving the harbour of Ardrossan, and cutting a
canal to it from the city of Glasgow. See Ardeos-
san. — At Eglinton castle, in the month of August,
1839, occurred a gorgeous pageant, hi imitation of
the tournament of the Middle ages, — a "passage of
arms," as a tilt with wooden poles smoothly rounded
at the end, over lists carefully strewn with saw-
dust five inches deep, yielding soft repose to un-
horsed knights, was somewhat facetiously termed.
— Susanna, the third wife of Alexander, the ninth
Earl of Eglinton, and daughter of Sir Archibald
Kennedy of Culzean, is celebrated for her personal
beauty, and for her transmission of a nobleness of
mien, distinguished at the period as "the Eglinton
air," to a family of one son and seven daughters.
EGLIS, a prefix in topographical names, — the
same as Eagles: which see.
EGLISHAY. See Eagleshay.
EGLISMONICHTY, an ancient chapelry, now
included in the parish of Monifeith, Forfarshire.
The chapel stood on a crag above Dichty water,
nearly opposite the mill of Balmossie.
EGMOKE. See Cupar-Fife.
EIGG, or Egg, an island in the parish of Small
Isles and county of Inverness. It is 6A miles in
length, and from 2 to 3 in breadth; and is about 8
miles west of Arasaig, the nearest part of the main-
land. It is partly flat, and partly hilly and rocky,
having a small valley miming through it. The low
grounds are tolerably productive. The superficial
area is 5,580 Scots acres, whereof 935 are arable;
and the gross rental, in 1826, was £650. Basaltic
pillars here and there appear over the whole island.
Along the coast, the rocks are chiefly of a light
honey-comb lava, having a great resemblance to
other volcanic productions. Seure-Eigg is the
highest part of the island. This hill, from its pecu-
liar shape, has at a distance a singular appearance;
but, as we approach nearer, it rises in grandeur,
and at length, a stupendous columnar promon-
tory bursts on our view. The whole of this pro-
montory is perfectly mural, extends for upwards ot
1J mile, and rises to the height of 1,340 feet. It is
entirely columnar, and the columns rise in succes-
sive ranges until they reach the summit, where,
from their great height, they appear diminutive.
Staffa, the most magnificent assemblage of natural
columns that has yet been discovered, is the only
one that can bear a comparison with Scure-Eigg.
On the south coast of Eigg, there is a small island,
called Eilan-Chastel, or Castle Island, on which a
few persons, tending cattle, live during part of the
summer months. The sound between this island
and Eigg makes a tolerable harbour for vessels not
exceeding 70 tons. The air is generally moist, and
the weather rainy : the climate, however, is healthy.
The language principally spoken and universally
understood is Gaelic, and from it the names of
places seem mostly to be derived. There are vari-
ous Danish forts; and, on the farm of Kildonnain,
near an old Popish chapel, is a barrow which is said
to be the burial-place of Donnan, the tutelary saint
of Eigg. A road was formed across the island bj'
the statute labour of the inhabitants. The parish
school and the manse are in Eigg. Here also is
an inn. Population in 1831, 452; in 1861, 309.
Houses, 54.
EIL (Loch), the upper part of an inlet from the
sea, on the borders of Argyle and Inverness-shire,
which, nearer the ocean, is known by the name of
Loch Linnhe. Near its head is the house of Loch
Eil, the residence of the chief of the family of Cam-
eron. At the point where the loch turns northward,
and changes its name from Linnhe to Eil, stand
Fort- William and the village of Mary burgh.
EILAN. See Ellan.
EILDON, a hamlet in the parish of Melrose,
Roxburghshire. Population, 56. Houses, 14.
EILDON HILLS, a brief mountain-range of
three conical summits, in the parishes of Melrose
and Bowden, Roxburghshire. The central summit,
according to Ainslie's map of Scotland, rises 1,330
feet, and, according to Sir John Leslie, 1,364 feet
above the level of the sea, and is celebrated for the
opulence of the scenery which it overlooks; and the
north-eastern summit, scarcely less elevated, and
commanding a minute view of the rich beauties at its
base, and a full view of most of the landscape seen
from the loftier summit, is famous for its monu-
ments of antiquity. From the north only these
summits — each more important than the third — are
visible; and, as seen from that quarter, they pos-
sess a lovely outline, and exquisite proportions,
towering aloft on a base of irregular but generally
rapid acclivity from the banks of the Tweed, and
forming a magnificent back-ground to a picture full
of minute and various beauties. Seen from the
south, all the summits are in view, but heathy and
bleak in their appearance, and serving as a foil to
the luxuriance and the brilliant displays of the
surrounding country. Looking down from the
Eildons, an observer sees at his feet the fine abbey
of Melrose peering out from among trees, and th«
EISHART.
599
ELDERSLIE.
joyous movements of the Tweed, windingly pro-
longing its stay among villas and clusters of planta-
tion and verdant slopes and all the varieties of a gay
river's adornments. Lifting his eye higher, he sur-
veys a sea of hills, wearing the uniform hue of
pastoral wildness, till they terminate in the distant
ranges of Lammermoor and the Yarrow braes; and,
turning slowly southward, he observes minutely the
attractions of Cowdenknows and the lands of Dry-
burgh, and sees all Teviotdale and the Merse — rich
in scenery as in song — hung out before him like a
panorama, till the horizon is hemmed in by the long
blue line of the hazily seen Cheviots. The rocks of
which the Eildous consist are chiefly porphyritic
traps, with large quantities of felspar. Many parts
show clinkstone ; and a large portion of the surface
glitters in the sunshine : —
"Broad Eildon's shivery side, like silver, shines,
As ill the west the star of day declines."
On the side of the Eildons is an artificial tumulus,
called the Bourgo, of great extent, and currently be-
lieved to have been the scene of Druidical orgies.
On the north-eastern summit are vestiges of a Ro-
man camp, fortified with two fosses and earthen
mounds more than 1J mile in circuit, and having a
level space near the centre, where was the preto-
rium, or general's quarters. The camp included
springs of good water, and an ample supply of wood
for fire; and — affording abundant space for man,
beast, and baggage, and lifting the eye away to
even a very distant view of an enemy — it had all
the properties of a well-chosen station. Appear-
ances have been discovered on the Eildon hills of
the same kind as the famous parallel roads of Glen
Roy. There are no fewer than sixteen distinctly
traceable terraces running round these hills, and
rising one above another like the steps of a stair.
EILLAN. See Ellan.
EIRE. See Fiedhoen (The).
EISDALE. See Easdale.
EISHART (Loch), an arm of the sea, about 7
miles in length, bounding the west side of the pen-
insula of Sleat in the island of Skye.
ELANDONNAN. See Ei.lamdonan.
ELCHAIG (Tke), a mountain stream, traversing
a rugged alpine glen, to which it gives the name of
Glenelchaig, and flowing into the head of Lochlong,
in the northern division of the parish of Kiutail,
Ross-shire.
ELCHIES. See Ksockando.
ELCHO CASTLE, an ancient residence of the
noble family of Wernyss, on the river Tay, in the
parish of Ehynd, north-east of Moncrieff hill, and
4 miles below Perth. Though in a ruinous condi-
tion, it is still entire, and was not long ago re-roofed.
It is of considerable extent, strong and thick in its
walls, very hard and durable in its materials, and
must formerly and for a long time have been a place
of note. The battlements which crown it, and
which are accessible by several well-preserved
winding stairs, command splendid prospects along
the river. Elcho gives the title of Baron to the
eldest son of the Earl of Wemyss, — whose an-
cestor was created Baron Wemyss of Elcho in 1628,
and Baron Elcho and Methol, as also Earl of
Wemyss, in 1633.
ELDERSLIE, a village in the Abbey parish of
Paisley, Renfrewshire, about 2 miles west from
the cross of that town. The inhabitants are chiefly
weavers, cotton-spinners, and workmen at the neigh-
bouring coal-pits and quarries. As the village is
intersected by the high-road leading from Paisley
westward, and as the canal from Glasgow to John-
stone, and the railway from Glasgow to Ayrshire,
both pass close to it, it enjoys great facilities for
commercial intercourse. There is a copious supply
of excellent spring water, especially from the Bore,
a spring so called from its water having come in
contact with a shaft which was put down about the
beginning of this century, when boring for coal.
A chapel of ease, containing 800 sittings, was built
here in 1840. The patronage of it is vested in the
subscribers. Elderslie, as a village, is a straggling
place, with only common-place attractions ; but it
stands on the ground where Scotland's famous
champion, " the Wallace wight," was born, where
he flourished, and whence he took his designation of
" the Knight of Elderslie ; " and for that reason it
challenges the earnest thoughts of all Scotchmen,
yet looks to many of them to be a degrading intrud-
er on so sacred a spot. Mr. Ramsay, in his Notices
of Renfrewshire, says : " The place called Elderslie,
also written Ellerslie, has been rendered classical
by its association with the name of the renowned
Sir William Wallace : —
" At Wallace' name what Scottish hlood
But boils up in a spring-tide flood!
Aft have our fearless fathers strode
By Wallace' side,
Still pressing onward red-wat-shod,
Or glorious died."
Near the west end of the village, and close to the
north side of the turnpike-road which passes through
it, stand the shattered remains of the celebrated
tree, called ' Wallace's Oak,' among the branches of
which, when in full leaf, tradition affirms that our
great patriot-hero concealed himself from the Eng-
lish. In transmitting this tradition, the popular
voice, ever prone to exaggerate, has magnified it so
much as to assert that the branches afforded shelter,
not only to Wallace, but also to 300 of his followers.
The modified form of the narrative is surely sufficient
to induce every true Scotsman to contemplate this
' monumental oak' with reverence. In the year 1825
the trunk measured 2 1 feet in circumference at the
ground, and 1 3 feet 2 inches at 5 feet from the ground.
It was 67 feet high, and the branches extended 45
feet east, 36 west, 30 south, and 25 north, covering
altogether a space of 19 English poles. Since that
time the dimensions of the tree have been much
diminished, partly through natural decay, but chiefly
by the cutting-off of portions, which are preserved
in many a form as mementos of the indomitable sup-
porter of his country's independence. The barony
of Elderslie belonged to Sir Malcolm Wallace ; and
here, as is generally believed, his heroic son first
saw the light. Near the oak-tree, but on the south
side of the road, a plain building of rather ancient
appearance is pointed out as the very house in which
Wallace was born ; but the architecture and the
condition of this edifice show that it must be refer-
red to an era much more recent than that in which
he flourished. Any mansion which then existed at
this place must have decayed, or been destroyed, in
the course of the five centuries which have since
rolled away. Adjoining the house just noticed is an
old garden, from the foundations of the walls of
which there was dug, about 30 years ago, a stone
bearing the following inscription, cut in Roman let-
ters : ' W. W. W. Chkist is only my Redeemer.'
These initials probably indicate two proprietors of
Elderslie, William Wallace, father and son, who
lived in the 16th century. In the garden there
is to be seen a fine and very old specimen of the
Scottish yew. The name of ' Wallace's Yew' has
been assigned to it, probably for no other reason
than because it stands at a spot hallowed by his
name. Elderslie remained for nearly five centuries,
after Wallace's time, in the possession of various
ELDEIG.
600
ELGIN.
branches of the family from which he was descended.
In 1729 it fell to an heiress, Helen Wallace, only
child of John Wallace of Elderslie, and wife of Archi-
bald Campbell of Succoth. The late Sir Hay Camp-
bell, Bart., Lord-president of the court of session,
was one of the children of this marriage." In 1769
Mrs. Campbell sold the estate to the great-grand-
father of the present proprietor, Arch. A. Speirs, Esq.
Elderslie house, the seat of the present Mr. Speirs,
is situated upon the left bank of the Clyde, adjacent
to the burgh of Eenfrew, at the distance of 5J miles
from the village of Elderslie. It was built in 1777-
82 by his ancestor, who, in 1760, had purchased the
ground on which it stands, and who gave it the
name of the estate from which he took his designa-
tion. Elderslie house has, since that time, been
enlarged and improved. It fronts to the south, and
is surrounded by a fine park. Population of the
village of Elderslie, in 1S61, 784.
ELDEIG, the highest part of the ridge of upland
on the mutual border of Lanarkshire and Renfrew-
shire. It has an altitude of at least 1,600 feet above
sea-level ; and it cradles the head-streams of both
the Rotten Calder and the White Cart. See Kil-
bride (East).
ELDRIG, or Edeick, a village in the south of the
parish of Mochrum, 10 miles north-west of Whit-
horn, Wigtonshire. Population, 217. Houses, 37.
ELEIN. See Ellan.
ELGAR, or Ella, one of the Orkneys, constitut-
ing part of the parish of Shapinsay. It lies about a
furlong to the south of Shapinsay, and is separated
from it by a reef of rocks that are almost dry at low
water.
ELGIN, a parish, containing a royal hurgh of
the same name, in Morayshire. It is bounded on
the north by New Spynie ; on the east by St.
Andrew's Lhanhride; on the south by Biniie ; and
on the west by Alves. It is of irregular form, but
extends about 10 miles in length, and 6 in breadth.
Its superficial contents have been estimated at about
18 square miles. Excepting a part lying westward
of the Lossie, and comprising the vales of Pluscar-
dine and Mosstowie, which are separated from each
other by a steep hilly ridge, the parochial surface
rises with a gentle acclivity from the town on its
northern extremity to the base of the Blackhills,
and thence rapidly to the summit of these hills, on
its southern boundary. The only river of any im-
portance is the Lossie, to which a tributary nans
northward from the Blackhills. The Lossie flows
slowly through the low lands also northward, part-
ly through the parish, but dividing it from Spynie
on the north before it falls into the Moray frith at
Lossiemouth. This river frequently overflows even
its artificial banks. In 1829 the Morayshire floods,
so graphically described by Sir Thomas Dick
Lauder, committed great havoc here. In the back
parts of the parish the soil is chiefly light and sandy
clay with calcareous particles; but many places,
particularly on the river hanks, are of a rich loam
and clay, exceedingly fertile, and yielding excellent
crops. Great part of the parish is under cultivation.
Even in remote times tillage seems to have been
attended to in this part of Scotland, and indeed con-
siderably advanced, as the scattered facts collected
from among the less useful and important records of
political and military history by the writer of the
Old Statistical Account of this parish sufficiently
evince. About 3,000 acres, however, are still waste,
or in pasture. Thriving plantations now cover
much of the old wastes. Some of these are exten-
sive, while others consist of scattered belts and
clumps of various foliage, which add greatly to the
beauty of the landscape. The secluded glen, at the
west end of the parish, in which the fine ruins ol
Pluscardine priory stands, has been so judiciously
wooded that the interest and romantic beauty of the
scene are greatly enhanced. See the article Plus-
cakdixe Abbey. The chief mineral product of this
parish is a bed of secondary limestone, tinged of a
dark colour by the oxide of iron. It is used as
manure, and for mortar. It runs from the southern
vicinity of the town eastward as far as the Moray
frith. The hilly ridge hetween Mosstowie and
Pluscardine consists of strata of a peculiar, hard,
pale-coloured sandstone, which is considered superior
to all others found in Scotland, except, perhaps, that
of Craigleith, near Edinburgh. In 1826 a consider-
able quantity of it was exported to London for the
building of the new London bridge. The old red
sandstone also appears in this district; and about
15 years ago, a curious cave was discovered in it,
which Mr. Duff, the geologist, speaks of as follows :
— " A considerable part of the cave had been
quarried away before its interest was suspected, nor
until considerable quantities of bones had been ex-
posed. It would appear, from the quantity of cal-
cined wood and burnt stones which strewed the
outer entrance, that the cave had been used by man
as a shelter, in which the process of cooking had
gone on; subsequently it had been taken possession
of by foxes, or other predacious animals, which had
hoarded the bones now found of deer, dogs, hares,
rabbits, seals, birds, and fishes; but the most inter-
esting feature of the cave is, that it proves by its
contents, the upheavement of an ancient sea-beach,
with its rolled pebbles, sea-sand, and shells, lying
undisturbed, and above them a mass of brown mould
evidently derived from the decomposition of animal
matter. Many of the shells — such as the turbo and
patella — may have been carried there for food ; but
the sand, besides being nearly half made up of
fragments of shells, contains many entire specimens
of minute shells which could not have been brought
thither for any economical purpose, either by man
or animals. Here, then, we have a portion of the
sea-shore or beach elevated from 17 to 20 feet above
high water-mark, with its sand, shells, and pebbles
lying undisturbed, as they are seen lying and un-
disturbed on the beach which is every day washed
by the ocean waves." The principal landowners of
the parish are the Earl of Fife, the Earl of Moray,
Duff of Milton-Duff, and six others. The real
rental is about £9,000. Assessed property in 1843,
£15,591 17s. 4d. Estimated yearly value of raw
produce in 1835, £21,300. There are in the parish
eight grain mills, a saw mill, a wool carding-mill,
two distilleries, two breweries, and a tannery. The
parish is traversed southward by the roads to
Knockando and Rothes, and westward across its
north end by the great communications between
Aberdeen and Inverness. Population in 1831,
6,130; in 1861, 8,726. Houses, 1,446.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Moray. Patron, the Crown. The charge
is collegiate. Stipend for both charges, £523 3s.
lid.; glebe of each, £18. Unappropriated teinds,
£82 18s. 7d. The parish church was built in 1828,
and contains 1,800 sittings. There was formerly a
mission church of the Royal Bounty at Pluscardine ;
but it ceased to be connected with the Establishment
in 1843. Four places of worship belonging to the
establishment stand within the parliamentary burgb
of Elgin, which comprehends parts of the parishes
of St. Andrew's Lhanhride and New Spynie ; and
these four places aggregately contain 2,680 sittings,
and were attended on the census day by 1,452 per-
sons. There are two Free churches in the town —
the High and the South— jointly containing 1,460
ELGIN.
601
ELGIN.
sittings, and attended on the census day by 1,340
persons. There is also a Free church at Pluscar-
dine. The sum raised in 1854 by the High Free
church was £572 2s. lid.; by the South Free
church, £663 3s. lid.; by the Fluscardine Free
church, .£85 9s. 6d. There are in the town two
United Presbyterian churches, with jointly 1,226
sittings, and an attendance of 881 ; an Episcopalian
chapel, with 300 sittings, and an attendance of 140;
an Independent chapel, with an attendance of 260;
a Baptist chapel, which, along with another returned
for the parliamentary burgh in 1851, contained 600
sittings, and had an attendance of 150; and a Bo-
man Catholic chapel, with 250 sittings, and an
attendance of 109. The principal school in the
town is an academy, partly endowed, partly sup-
ported from the burgh funds, and comprising three
departments, classical, mathematical, and English,
hut conducted by six teachers, and affording in-
struction, not only in the branches strictly belong-
ing to its three departments, but also in French,
German, practical astronomy, drawing, elocution,
&c. The salary of the three head-masters is £50,
£45, £45. with "fees. There are 16 other schools in
the parish, attended by about 600 children; and
among those of them in the town are a school of in-
dustry, a free school, an infant school, two schools
for young ladies, and two dancing schools.
ELGIN, a royal burgh, the capital of Morayshire,
once an important episcopal city, the cathedral seat
of the great bishopric of Moray, is situated 174 miles
north of Edinburgh, 63J north-west of Aberdeen, 12
east-north-east of Forres, 9 west-north-west of
Fochabers, and 5 south-south-west of Lossiemouth,
its sea-port. The name of Elgin is generally sup-
posed to have been derived from Helgy, a general
of the army of Sigurd the Norwegian Earl of
Orkney, who, about 927, conquered Caithness, Eoss,
Sutherland, and Moray, and probably made a settle-
ment at Elgin, which is so ancient as to have been
a town of some note, and a favourite and usual royal
residence, even before it became the episcopal seat
of the diocese. As the word Helgyn is still used
in the inscription on the corporation seal, it is
probable that this etymology is correct. The
town extends nearly a mile along the south side
of the Lossie, in the midst of scenery so beauti-
ful and vegetation so luxuriant that the in-
habitants delight, and justly so, in claiming,
for the environs of their ancient city, the dis-
tinguished appellation of " the Garden of Scotland."
Of all the Scottish towns, Elgin bears the strongest
resemblance to St. Andrews. Doubtless this must
be attributed to the circumstance of its having once
been, like that ecclesiastical metropolis, the seat of
an important and wealthy see, — the sumptuous
residence of a numerous corps of dignified Papistical,
and quite as dignified Episcopal ecclesiastics, and
of affluent provincial gentry, drawn together here
as to a common centre of attraction. Many of their
houses are still pointed out:
"Bright towers of warlike chiefs around appear,
The lowly roof and noble dome are here.
Sweet is the scene: yet, Scotia, turn thine eyes
And w-eep, for lo! thy church a ruin lies."
Although, like those of a similar character in Edin-
burgh and elsewhere, the ancient mansion-houses
here were long since ' handed down ' to artizans
and others in the lower ranks of life ; and though
it may be said, not only that a new town has sprung
up, but that the old has, in a measure, ' cast its
skin,' and now become completely renovated;
nevertheless the period is by no means remote,
when Elgin wore the antiquated, still, and vener-
able aspect which so well befits the habits and
harmonizes with the repose of genuine ecclesiastics,
in the full enjoyment of an intellectual ' olium cum
dignitatem
The houses of the long main street of Elgin, as it
then existed, were of venerable age, with high-
crowned roofs, overlaid with heavy slabs of priestly
gray; presenting, to the street, like those — we may
now almost also say of old — in Dysart, Edinburgh,
and other towns, the portly fore-stair, and a double
range of the more distinguished open piazza, con-
sisting of a series of pillared arches in the front
wall, over the entrance to a paved and sheltered
court within, in which, as well as in his humbler
small dark shop or cellar, was the ancient ' mer-
chant' wont, at times, with carelessness, but with
complete security, to leave his goods, and walk un-
ceremoniously off, — his "half-door on the bar," — to
breakfast, dinner, or his evening stroll. But few of
these piazzas now exist, and some that do are either
built entirely up, or otherwise converted into shops
of modern style. The last house which retained them
open was Elchies-house, lately removed. Diverg-
ing from the main street, the essential form of which
— as widened in the centre of the town, to compre-
hend ' the Muckle kirk,' ' the Little kirk,' its ad-
junct, and the Town-house, or Tolbooth, — is still
the same, though much improved in length and
breadth as well as substance, numerous lanes and
closes, flanked by houses of inferior grade, stretched
off, rectangularly, as they still do, like the ribs from
a spinal ridge. The dates of their erection, and the
names of their proprietors, were usually inscribed
upon the lintels of these ancient domiciles, with
here and there a holy benediction. The pavement
of the main street was an ancient causeway, which
tradition modestly reports to have been the work of
no more ancient hands than those of Cromwell's
soldiers; though, most likely, it was many ages
older. It rose high in the middle ; and ' the crown
of the causeway,' where the higher minded folks
delighted to parade, was elevated and distinguished
by a row of huge stone blocks, while those of a
more moderate calibre occupied the sloping sides.
The drains which ran along the street were crossed,
rectangularly, by the common gutter, which, in
heavy rains, was often swelled into a mighty torrent.
The street had no side-pavements, till Lord Fife,
aided by the citizens, and the road-trustees, intro-
duced them in 1821.
St. Giles's, or ' the Muckle kirk,' was razed, in
1826, to make way for the present splendid substi-
tute. The period when the original St. Giles was
built is not on record. It was very ancient, and is
early mentioned as a parsonage. In the palmy
days of the cathedral's glory, it was in the bishop's
pastoral charge. It stood upon two rows of massive
pillars, spreading into pointed Gothic arches, with
a vaulted roof, weighed down by heavy hewn stone,
instead of slate. In 1679, on Sunday, 22d June,
and, providentially, in the interval between the
services, the roof fell in, and, except the arched
tower in the centre, and the pillars at the sides, the
total fabric was destroyed. In 1684, it was rebuilt,
when two long aisles were added, on each side, to
the original form of the church. The Little kirk,
where service was performed on week days, was
appended to the middle tower, upon its eastern side,
hut was demolished sixty years ago. Although the
interior of the Muckle kirk, with its rows of massive
sandstone pillars running along its aisles, and ter-
minating upwards in the high peaked arches which
upheld its vaulted roof, possessed a dignity and
grandeur of no common order, heightened and en-
hanced as was the tout ensemole by its richly carved
and massive oaken pulpit, galleries, and seats, the
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exterior was by no means rich in architectural dis-
play— presenting nothing worthy of record, except
the lofty pointed gable of its western aspect, which
was occupied by a large fine Venetian three-arched
window, and the central, Gothic, grand front en-
trance from the paved square called the Plainstones.
The central tower was a square heavy mass with-
out a steeple. It possessed a curious old fashioned
clock, however, and a bell whose long familiar tones
were held in veneration by the natives, as indeed
was every thing connected with the Muckle kirk;
— so much so that its demolition caused a general
feeling of deep regret, if not dismay, amongst them,
which the unequivocal symptoms of decay, and the
impending probability of other dangers such as
those of 1679, did little to diminish.
" The Tolbooth, biggit wt stanes frae ye kirk-
yard dyke, and sclaited wt stanes frae Dolass," in
the year 1605, is now, like 'the kirk-yard dyke'
itself, amongst the things that were. It stood in
the middle of the market-place, and consisted of the
court-house and the jail, a square uncomely tower,
which terminated in a short spired roof. A new
and elegant court-house having been erected, it was
doomed, in 1840, no longer to encumber the ground;
and immediately behind the court-house a new
prison, containing 15 separate apartments, and
costing about £1,500, was erected at the joint ex-
pense of the county of Moray, the city of Elgin, and
the town of Forres. ' The Muckle cross' stood also
in the market-place, but was many years ago re-
moved. ' The Little cross ' still stands entire near
the entrance to Grant-lodge, — Lord Seafield's house,
— and opposite an old piazzaed mission. Here it
probably marked the old burgh-boundary on the
east. The burgh, it is thought, was once surrounded
by a wall ; at all events there were two entrances
or gateways to the town, one called the East port,
and another called the West.
On the flattened summit of the Lady-hill, a mount
with conical and precipitate slopes, north-west of
the High-street, there was anciently a royal fort
erected so early as the reign of William the Lion,
for protection to the town, which probably then
crept close around it. Ruins of the castle-walls, of
extraordinary thickness, are still visible. They
seem to have been cemented into one hard mass, as
durable as rock, with hot run lime. As the warlike
spirit of the age subsided, Elgin castle fell into de-
cay ; but legends of the nursery give other causes
for its disappearance. These assure us that the in-
mates were afflicted with the plague or pest, and
that, hac causa, we presume, —
" the castle in a single night,
With all its inmates sunk quite out of sight.
There, at the midnight hour, is heard the sound
Of various voices talking under ground,
The rock of cradles, — wailing infants' cries,
And nurses singing soothing lullabies."
A place is now occupied beside the castle by a mo-
numental pillar to the memory of the late Duke of
Gordon, the funds for which were raised by a
county subscription. In the hollow ground to the
east of the cathedral stands a pool, which is tradi-
tionally believed, by every Elgin school-boy, to be
of unfathomable depth. It is called 'the Order
pot,' — most probably a name corrupted from ' the
Ordeal pot,' a place where witches underwent their
ordeal by water, or were made to ' choose their
horn' of the rather grave dilemma into which our
fathers, in the plenitude of a sagacity profound as
the Order pot itself, beguiled ' the devil's bairns' by
the simple practical alternative of — ' sink or swim.'
So late as 1560, witches were publicly and legally
punished in the burgh of Elgin. There are no
authentic records of the Ordeal pot, however; but
there is an ancient prophecy, believed to be one oi
that worthy old orthodox seer, Thomas-the-Rhymer,
that —
" The Order Pot and Lossie gray
Shall sweep the Chan'ry kirk away."
At all events, it requires no seer's eye to perceive
that some peculiar and mysterious subterraneous
communication must exist between the Order pot
and the Lossie; for, " whenever the Lossie is swelled
by unusual floods, it makes for its old haunt," the
Order pot, — a phenomenon which has led to the na-
tural supposition that the channel of the Lossie—
which is known to have deviated in this vicinity —
must have passed, at an era more or less remote,
through the Order pot.
Amongst other features of the ancient conse-
quence of Elgin, as a city, is Thunderton-house, the
ancient town-house of the family of Sutherland of
Duffus. In its pristine grandeur, it consisted of a
great imposing edifice, adorned with a tower and
bartizan, the top of which was skirted by a curiously
chiseled balustrade. This house fell ultimately
into the possession of a jocular auctioneer, named
Batchen, who, when questioned as to what he
meant to make of ' the Muckle house,' dryly assur-
ed his inquisitive friends that he " meant to make a
kirk and a mill of it," — a joke, the point and edge
of which they came to see, when John had let the
great hall as a chapel, and had fitted up a windmill
in the bartizan. The property has since been sold
in building-lots ; and a neat Congregational chapel
was built upon a part of the site in 1821. In the
train of the Eoman Catholic establishment were
numerous institutions and religious houses, — Friars
" black and gray," knights of St. John, with wan-
dering monks, innumerable. The ruins of a chapel,
and a portion of the convent walls, once occupied
by a brotherhood of the Grey friars, and endowed
by Alexander II., may be still seen, near the Elgin
institution, at the east end of the town. The Elgin
institution was itself erected on the site of ' the
House of God,' — ' Maison Dieu,' — a kindred insti-
tution, founded in the 13th century, and largely en-
dowed, by Bishop Andrew Moray, for reception of
poor men and women. It was burnt near the end
of the 14th century by Alexander Stuart, the lord of
Badenoch. The extensive revenues of it were given
to the magistrates for special purposes, in 1620, by
King James; but from the funds some beadsmen
are supported still, in houses near the site of the
original establishment. A Leper-house stood also
in the neighbourhood, some crofts still passing by
the name of ' Leper lands.' Upon the ground
called Black-friars-haugh, between the Lossie and
the North-back-street, and at the point whence the
river is supposed to deviate from its ancient course,
was formerly a Black-friars' monastery. No vestige
of it now remains. A turretted edifice, occupied in
modern times as a library, is said to have been in-
habited by Templars. In the front of it are escut-
cheons of the family of Rothes.
The cathedral, the seat of the see of Moray, in
the days of its perfection, was no less the chief
glory of Elgin than it was the boast of Moray.
Nay, Bishop Barr characterized the original edifice
not only as the chief ornament of the district, but
as " the glory of the kingdom, and the admiration
both of foreigners and natives." " It is an allowed
fact, which the ruins seem still to attest," says
Chambers in his Picture of Scotland, " that this was
by far the most splendid specimen of ecclesiastical
architecture in Scotland, the abbey church of Mel-
rose not excepted. It must be acknowledged that
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the edifice last mentioned is a wonderful instance of
symmetry and elaborate decoration ; yet, in extent,
in loftiness, in impressive magnificence, and even in
minute decoration, Elgin has manifestly been supe-
rior. Enough still remains to impress the solitary
traveller with a sense of admiration mixed with
astonishment." Shaw, in his description of it, even
ventures to assert, that this " church, when entire,
was a building of Gothic architecture inferior to few
in Europe." " The prevailing impulse of the reli-
gion of the period," observes Mr. Ehind, " led its
zealous followers to concentrate their whole ener-
gies in the erection of such magnificent structures ;
and while there was little skill or industry mani-
fested in the common arts of life, and no associations
for promoting the temporal comforts of the people,
the grand conceptions displayed in the architecture
of the Middle ages, the taste and persevering indus-
try and the amount of wealth and labour bestowed
on those sacred edifices, find no parallel in modern
times." When entire, then, and in its pristine
glory, this magnificent temple must have afforded a
splendid spectacle. A vast pile, extending from the
western entrance to the high altar, a length of 289
feet, with its richly ornamented arches crossing and
recrossing each other to lean for support on the
double rows of stately massive pillars — the mellowed
light streaming in at the gorgeous windows above,
and flickering below amid the deep and dark shades
of the pointed aisles, while the tapers of the lit up
altars twinkled through the rolling clouds of in-
cense— the paintings on the walls — the solemn tones
of the chaunted mass — the rich modulated music of
the choir — and the gorgeous dresses and imposing
processions of a priesthood sedulous of every adjunct
to dazzle and elevate the fancy, — must have deeply
impressed with awe and veneration a people in a
remote region, in a semi-barbarous age, and with
nothing around them, or even in their uninformed
imaginations, in the slightest degree to compare
with such splendour. No wonder that the people
were proud of such a structure, or that the clergy
became attached to it ! It was a fit scene for a
Latin author of the period, writing on the " tran-
quillity of the soul," to select, for his ' Temple of
Peace,' and under its walls to lay the seene of his
philosophical dialogues. This great edifice owed its
origin to Bishop Andrew Moray, who is said to
have founded it on the site of an old church in the
year 1224. But after standing 166 years, the origi-
nal fabric was destroyed in June 1390, by the lord
of Badenoch, Alexander Stuart, son of Robert II.,
usually called the Wolf of Badenoch. From re-
sentment against the bishop, Alexander Barr, who
had excommunicated him, for keeping violent pos-
session of church property, this ferocious incendiary
burnt the city, Maison Dieu, the parish church,
and another edifice devoted to religion, with 18
houses of the canons, besides the cathedral itself.
His only punishment was doing penance in the
Black friars' church at Perth, before the altar.
Bishop Barr began soon after to rebuild it; but many
painful years were spent, together with a third of
all the revenues of the bishops, ere that one dark
day's disaster was repaired ; and even after its com-
pletion, in 1506, the great central tower fell down.
This new misfortune was also remedied, however;
and, from 1538, the fabric continued in a state of
perfect preservation till the Reformation. But in
1568, the privy-council actually had the meanness
to appoint the Earl of Huntly, sheriff of Aberdeen
and Elgin, with some others, " to take the lead
from the cathedral churches of Aberdeen and
Elgin, and sell the same" for the maintenance of
Regent Moray's soldiers. The vessel freighted
with the metal, however, had scarcely left the
harbour of Aberdeen, on her way to Holland, where
the plunder was to be sold, than she sunk with all
her cargo. Since that period, the cathedral of
Elgin, unprotected from the weather, has gradually
gone to ruin. Still, however, do its splendid ruins
amply justify even the highest estimate of its ori-
ginal magnificence, and constitute the chief attrac-
tions of this limited but interesting city. Govern-
ment latterly caused much attention to be paid in
clearing out the ruins, and in preventing them from
falling into complete decay. John Shanks, also,
who was appointed in 1825 to superintend them, set
personally to work, and cleared out from the ruins
no less than nearly 3,000 barrow loads of rubbish.
Numerous dilapidated ornaments, figures, tombs,
and other objects, were thus discovered, or laid
open, and additional interest and gratification there-
by afforded to the visitor. This noble pile, there-
fore, has now become intensely attractive alike to
the artist, the antiquary, and the general observer.
Like all similar fabrics of its time, the cathedral
of Elgin stood due east and west, and was built in
the form of a Jerusalem or Passion cross. The
choir faced the east, or head of the cross; the tran-
septs extended to the north and south; and the
grand entrance was through the western extremity,
or foot of the cross. The grand tower rose from its
centre. The west gate, flanked with two massive
but elegant towers, and the chapter-house, appended
to the northern cloisters, with parts of the transepts,
are all tolerably perfect; the whole displaying work
manship of the most intricate and exquisite beauty.
The western towers, however, form the most entire
part of the ruin. The great gate, between these, is
ornamented with fluted pilasters; and above it is a
central window, lancet arched, 28 feet high, and
originally fitted up with mnllions and tracery. The
great gateway is entered by a flight of steps, and
leads to the nave where the numerous and splendid
Papal processions took place, while the multitudes
who witnessed them were present in the aisles, at
the sides, which were separated from the nave by
rows of stately pillars, rising up to support the roof;
but only the foundations of these, and a few of the
pedestals, remain. Between the nave and the choir
where the rites were performed, stood the walls of
the great central tower, and on each side were the
transepts. The choir extends eastward to the
chancel, at the head of the cross, where stood the
grand altar. The chancel was separated from the
choir by a screen. The grand altar stood beneath
the eastern windows, and was lighted up by a
double row of five slender windows, with pointed
arches, — the whole surmounted by a large wheel
window, with rich ornamental tracery. The choir
and the nave were also lighted by a double row
of windows with pointed arches, the lower range
being the largest, while both tiers ran along the
whole extent of the church. The windows were
filled with richly tinted glass, in various devices,
fragments of which have been found amongst the
ruins. The authors of the ' Sketches of Moray,'
have succeeded in effecting a very beautiful restora-
tion of the plan of this cathedral, whereby it appears
abundantly evident, from the consummate harmony
of effect, though mixture of Norman and Saxon
styles, displayed throughout the whole sketch, and
from the massive form, broad buttresses, and gen-
eral severity of architectural style in the two great
western towers themselves, that these were sur-
mounted, each by four small turrets, and not raised
and tapered into spires like the central tower, as has
been erroneously conjectured. The spire of the
central tower, as restored in 1538, rose to the height
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of 198 feet, and, in the sketch alluded to, it forms a
superb and appropriate coronal ornament to the
whole, the effect of which would have been mani-
festly injured by association with other spires of any
magnitude in the same edifice. The great tower
fell in 1711. The dimensions of the cathedral given
in the New Statistical Account, and which are said
to be "nearly accurate," are as follow: — Length
of cathedral over walls, 264 feet; breadth, 35; tra-
verse, 114; height of centre tower, 198; eastern
turrets, 60 ; western towers without the spires, 84 ;
side wall, 36. According to the elevation above
alluded to, however, the dimensions furnished by
the architect, Mr. Kemp, the author of the beautiful
design for the monument to Sir Walter Scott, at
Edinburgh, are as follow: — Length from east to
west, including towers, 289 feet; breadth of nave
and side aisles, 144; breadth of choir, including
walls and aisles, 79; length of transept, including
walls, 120; height of west towers, 83; height of
east towers, 64; height of middle tower, including
spire, 198; height of grand entrance, 26; height
of chapter-house, 34; breadth of chapter-house, with
walls, 37; height of great western window, 28;
diameter of eastern wheel window, 12 ; height of
side walls, including choristry, 43; breadth of side
aisles, 18.
The chapter-house, attached to the northern clois-
ter of the cathedral, is extremely elegant. It is an
octagon, with a pillar of elaborate workmanship in
the centre, supporting a richly groined roof.
Arched pillars from every angle terminate in the
grand pillar, which is 9 feet in circumference,
crusted over with 1 6 pilasters or small pillars, alter-
nately round and fluted. It is lighted by seven
large windows, and in the walls are niches, where
the oaken stalls of the dignified clergy, who formed
the bishop's council, were placed: the central one
for the bishop or dean being more elevated than the
rest. This apartment was richly ornamented with
sculptured figures, and it now also contains the
grotesque heads and other devices which occupied
niches and capitals of the pillars in other parts of
the church. This, like similar choice portions of
other ecclesiastical edifices of the Middle ages, is
called, ' The apprentice's aisle,' having been built,
according to the curious but hackneyed legend,
by an apprentice in the absence of his master, who,
from envy of its excellence, murdered him on his re-
turn,— a legend so general [see article Rosltn] that
probably it never did apply to any cathedral in par-
ticular, but originated in the mysticisms of those
incorporations of free-masons, who, in the Middle
ages, traversed Europe furnished with papal bulls
and ample privileges to train proficients in the
theory and practice of masonry and architecture.
The Elgin pillar, a Runic obelisk, discovered in
1823, about 2 feet beneath the surface, when the
streets of the town were under repair, is now pre-
served in the cathedral. It is 6 feet long, 2 J broad,
and 1 thick; but it is evidently incomplete. Sur-
rounding the cathedral was a substantial wall, 8
feet in height, and entered by five gates. It en-
closed an area 900 yards in circumference, called
the College, and included the manses and gardens
of the dean, the prebendaries, and the other dignified
members of the chapter. A paved street ran round
this area. The only gate to the precincts now re-
maining is the eastern, named the Water-gate, or
Pann's port, which was formerly defended by an
iron portcullis. Near it is a large and venerable
beech, with wide-spread branches. The college
was the residence of the dean, who was rector of
Auldearn. The manse of the sub-dear, still exists,
but lias been much enlarged and altered. The
episcopal palace is on the south of the cathedral.
In the reign of James IV., it became the property
of Alexander Seaton, Earl of Dunfermline, and was
hence named Dunfermline-house. Only part of it
now stands, and is within the park of the Earl of
Seafield. In the immediate vicinity of the college,
westward, was a small suburb under the jurisdic-
tion of the bishop.
The chapter consisted of 22 canons who resided
within the college. They were chosen from the
clergy of the diocese, and officiated in the cathedral.
Part of them constituted the council of the bishop.
Besides a manse and garden in the college, each
had a portion of land, called a prebendum, allotted
to him for his services. Hence they were also
called prebendaries. They enjoyed these benefits
over and above the revenues of their vicarages in
the country parishes whence they were chosen.
The dean presided in the chapter during the ab-
sence of the bishop ; he also presided in synods and
all church-courts, and was anciently superior over
ten canons. The archdeacon was the visitor of the
diocese and the bishop's vicar. The chancellor was
judge in the court of the bishop, secretary to the
chapter, and keeper of their seal. The names of the
chanter and treasurer also denote their respective
offices. The bishop had civil, criminal, and eccle-
siastical courts and officers ; and his power within
his diocese was almost supreme. The seat of the
bishopric was originally at Spynie; and indeed,
prior to the 13th century, the bishop transferred his
chair from one church to another as suited his con-
venience ; but, at the request of the chapter, and of
King Alexander II., it was translated to Elgin, in
virtue of a bull from Pope Honorius, dated 10th
April, 1224. The diocese was a veiy extensive
one. It comprehended the whole of the present
counties of Moray and Nairn, and part of those of
Aberdeen, Banff, and Inverness. The precise date
of its erection is not known, the early records of it
having been destroyed on the burning of the
cathedral, by the Wolf of Badenoch, and the chartu-
lary going no farther back than the year 1200; but
it is supposed to have been about the beginning of
the eleventh century, in the reign of Alexander I.,
previous to which, the bishops in Scotland wore
blue gowns, with their hair tucked under a cap, and,
having no particular diocese assigned them, were
itinerant. The first bishop on record was Gregory,
in the end of Alexander's reign, or the beginning of
the reign of his successor, David I. From this
period till the Revolution, the see was filled by, at
least, 36 bishops, of whom 28 were Roman Catholic,
and 8 Protestant.
The revenues of the bishopric were, no doubt, at
first very limited ; but by the bounty of our kings,
nobility, and private individuals, they became very
ample. King William the Lionwras a liberal donor.
At a veiy early period he granted to it the tenth of
all his returns from Moray. Grants of forests, lands,
and fishings were also made by Alexander II.,
David II., and other sovereigns, besides the Earls of
Moray, Fife, &c. Some of these lands were in In-
verness, Ross, &c. ; and among them were the lands
of Rothiemurchus and Strathspey. The rental, for
the year 1565, as taken by the steward of the bish-
opric, was £\ ,675 2s. 4d. Scots, besides a variety
of articles paid in kind. At this period, however,
more than a half of the church-lands had been " frit-
tered and sold and squandered:" the full rents were
not stated, and probably the rental then given did
not amount to a third of the actual income in the
high and flourishing period of the bishopric. The
estates or temporalia of the bishopric, with the
patronages belonging to the bishop, remained after
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the Reformation, in the Crown till 1590, when James
VI. assigned them all to Alexander Lindsay, a son
of the Earl of Crawford, and grandson of Cardinal
Beaton, for payment of 10,000 gold crowns, the sum
which he had lent his Majesty when in Denmark,
Lindsay being at the same time, as already observed,
created Lord of Spynie. After the King had pre-
vailed on Lord Spynie to resign the lands to obtain
a revenue for the Protestant bishops, the latter's
rights of patronage were reserved till the extinction
of his family in 1670, when they were re-assumed
by the Crown as ultimas licm-es. The Crown con-
veyed them by charter, in 1674, to James, Earl of
Airlie, who disponed them to the Marquis of Huntly
in 1682.
Elgin's ancient glory has departed with its bish-
opric; but the light of a new regeneration, while
it has been rapidly obliterating even the shadow of
its former glory, is as rapidly providing a solatium
for the loss more truly in accordance with the march
of human progress. " Forty years ago," observes
the writer of the New Statistical Account of Elgin,
"there were no turnpike roads leading to or from it,
no stage-coaches, no gas-work, no lighting or side
pavement to the streets, no hospital for the sick, no
institution for the support of old age and the edu-
cation of youth, no academy, no printing-press or
newspaper published in the town." In 1812 the
first mail-coach was started in the north. "The
blast of its horn, as it entered the town of Elgin
with a couple of horses and a guard in royal livery,
excited no small interest among the inhabitants, and
was hailed as the harbinger of a new era." So in-
deed it was. The mail and several stage-coaches
now enter and leave the town every day ; carriers
regularly go to Huntly, Banff, Inverness, and all
the adjacent towns and villages. The turnpike roads
are excellent, and diverge in every direction, cross-
ing, here, the river Lossie, by four modern one-
arched bridges, three of stone and one of iron. A
railway was opened in September, 1852, connecting
the town with Lossiemouth. The Great North of
Scotland railway, when completed, will connect it
on the one hand with Inverness, and on the other
with all the south of Scotland. An extensive corn-
trade, arising out of general agricultural improve-
ment in all the central and eastern parts of the low
grounds of Moray, has Elgin for its focus. The
modern society of the town comprehends an unusual
proportion of persons in easy or affluent circumstan-
ces. New and very handsome houses occupy the
places of the old. New streets have even started
up ; and villas, built in an elegant style, and inter-
spersed with shrubberies and gardens, now adorn
the southern suburbs. The streets and shops, and
even private houses, are brilliantly lighted with gas,
and the town is now well-drained and cleaned.
And owing to the vicinity of very excellent sand-
stone quarries, the edifices of the new streets, the
new houses in the old streets, and the villas in the
suburbs, have a much better appearance than the
generality of new structures in small provincial
towns, and for the most part are tastefully designed.
Yet, strange to say, some moody minds, of the anti-
quarian cast, rather bewail the modern improve-
ments than rejoice in them. A recent sheriff of the
county, C. Innes, Esq., for example, says: — "With-
in the memory of some yet alive, Elgin presented
the appearance of a little cathedral city, very un-
usual among the burghs of Presbyterian Scotland.
There was an antique fashion of building, and with-
al a certain solemn, drowsy air about the town and
its inhabitants, that almost prepared a stranger to
meet some church procession, or some imposing
ceremonial of the picturesque old religion. The
town is changed of late. The dwellings of the citi-
zens have put on a modem trim look, which does
not satisfy the eye so well as the sober grey walls
of their fathers. Numerous hospitals, the fruits of
mixed charity and vanity, surround the town, and
with their gaudy white domes and porticoes, con-
trast offensively with the mellow colouring and
chaste proportions of the anc:ent structures. If
the present taste continues, there will soon be noth-
ing remaining of the reverend antique town, but
the rains of its magnificent cathedral."
The new parish-church is one of the most elegant
structures in the north of Scotland. It has a spa-
cious portico of Doric columns covering its western
entrance, and a handsome tower with clock and
bells, surmounted by a lanthern with a richly chisel-
ed cupola. The Episcopal chapel, with a handsome
Gothic front, forms a neat termination to North-
street. The South Free church, built at a cost of
about £2,000, and opened on the first of January,
1854, is a remarkably neat structure. — Elegant As-
sembly-rooms were erected and tastefully fitted up
in 1822; and Sir Archibald Dunbar's town mansion,
Westerton-house, &c, are of recent erection. The
Elgin Institution, at the east end of the town, was
founded and endowed in 1832, from funds amounting
to £70,000, bequeathed for the maintenance of aged
men and women, and the maintenance and educa
tion of poor or orphan boys or girls, by General
Anderson — a native of Elgin, who rose from the
rank of a private soldier to that of Major-General in
the Honourable East India Company's service. The
edifice, besides being perfectly appropriate to its own
philanthropic object, is both a splendid monument
to the General's memory, and a fine architectural
ornament to the town. With the simple elegance
of outward proportions, and built of native sand-
stone which even marble cannot excel, its internal
accommodations present every comfort suited to the
inmates, — advantages which are enhanced by able
and methodic management. It is a quadrangular
building of two stories, surmounted by a circular
tower and dome. The institution for the children
contains a sehool-of-industry. The children are
apprenticed also to some trade or useful occupation.
The house-governor and teacher of the school of in-
dustry has a salary of £55 per annum, and his main-
tenance and lodging in the institution. A public
school, on the Lancasterian system, is attached to
the institution as a free-school, for the education of
male and female children whose parents, though in
narrow circumstances, are still able to maintain and
clothe them. The male and female teachers have
a joint salary of £75. Gray's hospital, or infirmary
and dispensary, was also founded by a native of
Elgin, Dr. Gray, who was afterwards resident at
Calcutta. It is intended for relief of the sick poor
of the town and county of Elgin, and was founded
and endowed from a bequest of £26,000. The build-
ing was erected in 1815, on a slight but spacious
eminence at the west end of the town. Its situation
is singularly well chosen, and being a very hand-
some edifice, in the Grecian style, with a projecting
portico of Doric columns on its eastern front, from a
design of Gillespie, it forms a splendid termination
to the High-street. — A small Lunatic asylum for
paupers was erected a few years ago on the hospital
grounds. The founder also established a charity
"for reputed old maids of the town of Elgin."
Elgin is the seat of numerous interesting institu-
tions,— benevolent, religious, literary, mercantile,
and miscellaneous. The principal benevolent ones, ad-
ditional to those which have been already mentioned,
are alms-houses, supported out of the preeeptory of
Maison Dieu; the Guildry charitable fund, with an
income of about £300 a-year, for the benefit of de-
cayed brethren, widows, and children; the funds of
the six incorporated trades for the benefit of their
poordecayed members and widows ; and Cummings',
Braco's, Petrie's, and Laing's mortifications, for the
benefit variously of decayed burgesses, decayed
merchants, and orphans or poor children. The
principal religious institutions are Sabbath-schools,
missionary auxiliary associations, and the Elgin and
Morayshire Bible Society. The principal literary
institutions are the literary association, established
in 1818; the scientific association, with museum;
the mechanics' institute; and corresponding con-
nexions with fine arts' societies in Edinburgh and
Glasgow. The principal mercantile institutions are
the water company, established in 1843, with a
capital of £5,500 ; the gas company, established in
1830, with a capital of £5,000; the market com-
pany, established in 1850, with a capital of £2,200;
the property investment company, established in
1851 ; branch-offices of the Union, the Commercial,
the British Linen, the Royal, the Caledonian, and
the North of Scotland banks ; and offices of upwards
of twenty insurance companies. And the principal
miscellaneous institutions are a national security
savings' bank; a society for promoting industry
among the poor ; two mason-lodges ; a chess club ;
a cricket club ; a curling club ; the Morayshire
coursing club ; and a horticultural society. Three
weekly newspapers are published in Elgin — the
Elgin Courant and the Elgin Courier on Eriday, and
the Elgin and Morayshire Advertiser on Wednesday.
Elgin was made a royal burgh by William I. It
is classed with Banff, Cullen, Inverivry, Kintore,
and Peterhead, in returning one member to parlia-
ment. The parliamentary constituency, in 1862,
was 297. The constitution of the burgh, previous
to the operation of the burgh reform act, was fixed
by an act of the convention of burghs, 8th Jul}',
1706. The council consisted of a provost, four
bailies, dean-of-guild, treasurer, and two other
councillors. It is now governed by a provost, four
bailies, and twelve councillors. Its municipal con-
stituency, in 1854, was 272. The revenue of the
burgh, in 1859-60, was £835. In 1832 it was £715
0s. 4d., inclusive of £74 for anchorage and shore-
dues at Lossiemouth, where the corporation built a
harbour, on which the burgh had from time to time
expended considerable sums for repair, which the
revenue thus arising was not nearly sufficient to
meet. A joint stock company was, therefore, after-
wards formed for the erection of a deeper harbour at
Stotfield point, to the north of the old harbour; and
this new harbour at Stotfield was successfully complet-
ed at an expense of £14,000. Of the burgh-revenue,
in 1832, £241 4s. Id. arose from feu-duties, £107 18s.
9d. from rental of land, and £187 lis. lid. from
entries of feu-vassals, burgesses, &c. and other
casualties. The expenditure on an average of five
years to 1832 was £887 18s. 4|d. The amount of
debt then due by the burgh was £794 10s., besides
the sum of £18 12s. 7d. per annum for the applica-
tion of which the burgh was answerable, arising
from sums mortified in their hands for charitable
purposes. Besides the appointment of the burgh-
officers, the principal patronage of the corporation
in 1832 consisted of the academy. The number of
burgesses, in 1832, was 141, of whom 40 had rents
or tenancy under £5. The incorporated trades are
the hammermen, the glovers, the tailors, the shoe-
makers, the weavers, and the square-wrights. As-
sessed property in 1815, £2,435; in 1845, £9,031 17s.
The sheriff-courts for Morayshire are held at
Elgin. Weekly markets are held on Tuesday and
Friday, Cattle-markets are held on the third Fri-
day of January, February, March, and April, on the
second Friday of May, on the first Tuesday of June,
on the third Tuesday of July, August, September,
and October, on the second Friday of November^
and on the third Wednesday of December. Sheep-
markets are held on the day before the April cattle-
market, and on the last Friday of July. The princi-
pal inns are the Gordon Arms, the Star, and the
Railway. The Great North of Scotland Railway
connects Elgin on the one side with Inverness and
Ross-shire, — on the other side with Banff and Aber-
deen ; the Lossiemouth railway connects it north-
ward with Lossiemouth ; and the Morayshire rail-
way connects it south-eastward with Craigellachie.
The railway to Lossiemouth makes Elgin virtually
a sea-port. A suburb of the town, included within
the parliamentary burgh, stands on the north side
of the Lossie. See Bishopmill. Population of the
royal burgh in 1831, 4,493 ; in 3861, 6,403. Houses,
1,003. Population of the parliamentary burgh in
1861,7,543. Houses, 1,221. Population, in 1861,
of the part of the parliamentary burgh within New
Spynie, 1,082 ; of the part of it within St. Andrew's
Lhanbride, 58. — Elgin gives the title of Earl to a
branch of the illustrious and royal house of Bruce.
Thomas, third Lord Bruce of Kinloss, was created
Earl of Elgin, in 1633, by Charles I. A descendant
of this noble family, Thomas, the seventh earl,
formed the valuable collection of the Elgin marbles
in the British museum. The family seat is Broom-
hall in Fifeshire.
ELGINSHIRE. See Morayshire.
ELHAEDHOLM. See Shapmshay.
ELIBANK, an estate in the parish of Yarrow,
on the right bank of the Tweed, 8 miles north-west
of Selkirk. An ancient peel-house still stands there
which is associated, in Border story, with deeds of
barbarous bravery. In 1613, Sir Gideon Murray
was appointed a lord of session, by the title of Lord
Elibank; and in 1643, Sir Patrick Murray was
raised to the peerage under the title of Baron Eli-
bank. The seats of his lordship's descendants are
Elibank - cottage in Selkirkshire, Ballencrieff in
Haddingtonshire, Darnhall in Peebles- shire, and
Pithcarlis in Perthshire. Elibank was the birth-
place of Russell, the historian of ancient and modern
Europe.
ELIE, or Ely, a parish, containing a post-town
of its own name, on the south coast of Fifeshire.
It is bounded by the frith of Forth, which here
forms the bay of Elie, and by the parishes of St.
Monance, Kilconquhar, and Newburn. It com-
prises a main body of about 2 miles in length from
east to west, and nearly 1 mile in breadth, and two
detached portions to the north-west, the one contain-
ing two farms at the distance of 2 miles, and the
other constituting one farm at the distance of 3
miles. There are no hills, and scarcely even a
rising ground in the parish, the whole surface being
flat, and a considerable part of it near the sea-shore
forming sandy links. The promontories which
form the two extremities of the bay of Elie consist
of amygdaloid and basalt, the latter exhibiting
sometimes a columnar structure. Between these
headlands the beach is low, and composed of alter-
nating, thin beds of sandstone and shale, with oc-
casionally seams of coal and strata of limestone, —
the whole belonging to a carboniferous system, and
inclined at high angles in different directions, and
without any regularity. Basalt occurs in numerous
places, extending in long reefs far into the sea, —
the beds of sandstone and shale dipping from them
on both sides ; but at one point in the western pari
of the bay the strata are said to dip under the ba-
salt. The greater proportion of the parish original-
ELIE.
607
ELLANDONAN CASTLE.
ly formed what was called the barony of Ardross,
and belonged to a family of the name of Disching-
ton, from whom it came about the beginning of the
17th century, to Sir William Scott, who held the
office of director-of-chancery during a part of the
reign of Charles I. From his descendants the
barony was acquired, about the close of that century,
by Sir William Anstruther of Anstruther. The
ruins of the ancient castle of Ardross, the manor-
place of the barony, still remain, about a mile east
of the village. Elie-house, the present mansion-
house, is situated north of the village, and in its
immediate vicinity. It is a large building, erected
apparently rather more than 160 years ago, in the
semi-classic style introduced by Sir William Bruce
of Kinross. The grounds are beautifully wooded,
and have been laid out with great taste. There are
1,570 imperial acres in the parish, of which 56 acres
have never been cultivated ; and about 50 acres are
in wood. The rent of the arable land varies, ac-
cording to its quality, from £1 to £4 per acre ; the
average being nearly £1 15s. per acre. The valued
rent is £4,105 13s. 4d. Scots. The real rental in
1836 was about £2,562. Estimated yearly value of
raw produce in 1836, £5,200. Assessed property in
1843, £3,661 6s. Population in 1831, 1,029; in
1861, 826. Houses, 203.
This parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrews,
and svnod of Fife. Patron, William Baird of Elie.
Stipend, £149 8s. 8d. ; glebe, £28 17s. 6d. School-
master's salary, £34 4s. 4£d., with about £40 fees
and £7 other emoluments. The parish church is a
neat structure, with a spire, built in 1726, thorough-
ly repaired in 1831, and containing nearly 600 sit-
tings. There is a Free church, whose people in
the year 1854 raised £161 2s. 7id. An Independent
chapel, though named of Elie, is within Kilconquhar.
There are two private schools and a subscription
library. There is also a joint savings' bank with
Earlsferry. Elie parish was originally a part of
Kilconquhar, and became a separate erection about
the year 1639.
The Village of Elie stands at the head of Elie
bay, 2J miles south-south-east of Colinsburgh, and
5 miles east-south-east of Largo. It is a burgh of
barony. It stands so close to the sea that the water
frequently washes the walls of the houses. It
must formerly have been a place of some importance ;
for it contains, in a street near the beach, several
substantial ancient residences, which evidently
must have been inhabited by families of distinction.
And though now it has little trade, and not much
local consequence, it is still a pleasant place, with
some sea-side stir and considerable attractions. It
is neat and well-built. The streets are wide, clean,
and regular. It is well-sheltered from the east
wind, and has for a long time been a place of con-
siderable resort during summer for sea - bathing.
No market is held in the town; but Colinsburgh,
which is easily accessible from it, has regular
weekly and yearly markets. A coach from An-
struther passes regularly through Elie in com-
munication with the Leven railway ; and a steamer
touches thrice a -week in transit between An-
struther and Leith. The harbour is naturally an
excellent one, and forms a safe and accessible shel-
ter for vessels, during a gale from the west or south-
west. Some care appears to have been at one time
taken to improve its natural advantages, by the
erection of quays and a pier; and Mr. Baird has re-
cently spent large sums in extending its improve-
ments, and purposes spending more. To the east
of the harbour, and at a small distance from it, is
Wadehaven, so called, it is said, from General
Wade, who recommended it to Government as a
proper harbour for men-of-war. It is very large,
and has from 20 to 22 feet water at common tides.
Notwithstanding the advantages which Elie enjoys
as a fishing-station, very little profit is derived by
its inhabitants from that branch of industry. There
are few fishermen in the place ; and these merely
fish along shore for white fish, to supply the con-
sumption of the village and neighbourhood. This
supply, however, is generally both cheap and ex-
cellent. Population in 1861, 706.
ELTOCK. See Elliock.
ELISTON, a very ancient baronial pile, on the
left bank of the Almond, on the estate of the Earl
of Hopetoun, in the parish of Kirkliston, Linlith-
gowshire. It is supposed to have been anciently a
hunting-seat of the Kings of Scotland, particularly
James II. and James IV.
ELLACH1E. See Craigellachie.
ELLAM, or Elllm, an ancient rectory, now com-
prehended in the parish of Longformacus, Berwick-
shire. It belonged to the Earls of Dunbar; and,
after their forfeiture, was given by Robert to
Thomas Erskine. The ruins of the ancient church
and hamlet are traceable on the north bank of the
Whitadder, near the passage which is still called
Ellam-ford.
ELLAN, Ealan, or Eilan, a prefix in Gaelic
topographical names, signifying " island."
ELLAN-AIGAS. See Aigas.
ELLAN-AN-EIGH. See Laggan (Loch).
ELLAN-CHAISTAL. See Castle-Islaxd.
ELLAN-CHOLUIMCILLE, a small island in
Portree bay, in Skye. The name signifies St.
Columba's island. The bay was anciently called
Loch ■Choluimcille.
ELLAN -DHEIRRIG, or Ellan - Gheibktg, a
small island in Loch Riddan, in the parish of In-
verchaolain, Argyleshire. It lies in the mouth ol
the loch, about 100 yards from the mainland. It
was strongly fortified by Archibald, Earl of Argyle,
and made the depot of his reserve arms and am-
munition, in his expedition to co-operate with the
Duke of Monmouth's invasion in 1685. The fort
was taken from his garrison, and blown up ; but a
small portion of it still stands, and can be seen from
the steam-boats passing through the Kyles of Bute.
A branch of the Campbells who possessed a large
estate in the circumjacent country, and were cele-
brated as warriors in Gaelic song, took from the is-
land the designation of Campbell of Ellan-Dheirrig.
ELLANDONAN CASTLE, a picturesque ruin,
on the small rocky island of Donan, at the head of
Loch-Alsh, where that sea-lake forks into Lochs
Long and Duich, at the south-west corner of Ross-
shire. It was once the manor-place of the ' high
chiefs of Kintail.' It is a magnificent ivy-clad ruin,
backed by a noble range of hills. This castle was
originally conferred on Colin Fitzgerald, son of the
Earl of Desmond, in 1266, by Alexander III. In
1331, it was the scene of a severe act of retributive
justice by Randolph, Earl of Moray, then warden o
Scotland, who executed fifty delinquents here, and
placed their heads on the walls of the castle. In
1537, Donald, fifth baron of Slate, lost his life in an
attack on Ellandonan castle, then belonging to
John Mackenzie, ninth baron of Kintail, and was
buried by his followers on the lands of Ardcloe, on
the western side of Loch-Long. William, fifth Earl
of Seaforth, having joined the Stuart cause in 1715,
his estate and honours were forfeited to the Crown
and his castle burnt. The attack on Ellandonan
castle, by the baron of Slate, is the subject of a bal-
lad by Sir Walter Scott's friend, Colin Mackenzie,
Esq. of Portmore. published in the Scottish Mil;
strelsy.
ELLAN-FADA.
608
ELLON.
ELLAN-DUIRINISH. See Duikinish.
ELLAN-FADA, an island near the head of Loch-
Killieport, on the west side of South Knapdale,
Argyleshire. It affords shelter from the heavy
swells raised hy the south-west gales ; and there is
good anchorage for vessels on its lee side.
ELLAN-FINNAN. See Ardnamurchan.
ELLAN-FEEUCH, an islet in the Sound of Islay,
on which are the ruins of a castle.
ELLAN-GHEIRRIG. See Ellan-Dheirrig.
ELLAN-ISSA. See Issay Island.
ELLAN-MAREE. See Maree (Loch).
ELLAN-MORE, an uninhabited isle contiguous
to the northern coast of Coll, Argyleshire.
ELLAN-MORE, a pastoral isle, famous for the
quality of its pasture, off the west side of South
Knapdale, and within the southern mouth of the
Sound of Jura, Argyleshire. An ancient chapel
here, arched over and covered with flags, is in a
state of high preservation.
ELLANMUNDE, an ancient parish, now com-
prehended in the united parish of Lismore and
Appin, Argyleshire. The seat of the parish church
was an island, which is Ellanmunde proper, in
Loch-Leven, contiguous to the mouth of the river
Coe. The ruins of the church are still there. The
cemetery also continues there, and is still in use.
The founder of the original church was an abbot of
the name of Munde, who flourished about the mid-
dle of the tenth century. The parish of Ellan-
munde comprehended Glencoe, the adjacent parts of
Appin, and the districts of Mamore and Ouriah.
ELLAN-NA-COOMB, or Ellak-na-Naoimh, a
small island closely contiguous to the east coast of
the parish of Tongue, Sutherlandshire. Here was
formerly a chapel and a burial-place, the remains of
which are still visible. On the south side of the
island the sea, after passing for several yards
through a narrow channel, spouts up into the air,
sometimes to the height of thirty feet, through a
large circular hole in the rock; and a few seconds
afterwards there is a discharge of water from the
east side of the island, with a loud noise resembling
the detonation of cannon. This happens only when
it is half-flood, and a gale at north-west.
ELLAN-NA-GAMHNA, an isle, with excellent
pasture, in the parish of South Knapdale, Argyle-
shire.
ELLAN-NA-KELLY. See Shiant Isles.
ELLAN-NA-LEEK, an isle near the north-west
coast of the parish of South Knapdale. Argyleshire.
ELLAN-NA-MUICK, an isle off the west coast
of the parish of South Knapdale, Argyleshire.
ELLAN-NA-NAOIMH. See Ellan-na-Coomb.
ELLAN-NAN-CAORACH, an isle off the coast
of the parish of Kildalton, in Islay.
ELLAN-NAN-CON. See Laggan (Loch).
ELLAN-NAN-GOBHAR, an islet in Loch Ay-
lort, in the parish of Ardnamurchan, Argyleshire.
It is an abrupt irregular mass of micaceous schist
rock ; and it contains two vitrified forts within a
few yards of each other, — the one of an oblong
figure, and 140 paces in circumference, — the other
of a circular figure, and 90 paces in circumference.
ELLAN-NA-ROAN, or Seal Island, an inhabit-
ed island, of about 2 miles in circumference, .in the
parish of Tongue, Sutherlandshire. It lies -off the
east side of the entrance of the Kyle of Tongue.
" It has the appearance of two islands, particularly
at high water. Part of it is scooped out into the
form of a basin, in which the soil is very fertile.
Its rocks are high and precipitous, and to the north
side abound with deep narrow fissures, through
which the wind rushes with great violence. As
this wind, besides being sharp and piercing, is im-
pregnated with saline matter, from its blowing
across the ocean, or perhaps from carrying along
with it the spray which dashes from off the rocks
beneath, the natives take advantage thereof for
economical purposes. In these fissures they season
their fish without using salt. On this north side
also there is a spacious and elegant-looking arch,
about 150 feet span, and 70 feet broad. About the
middle of the island there is a large circular hole,
which has fallen in many years ago, and is supposed
to communicate with the sea by a subterranean
cavern." Population, 42. Houses, 7.
ELLAN-RORY-MHORE. See Maree (Loch).
ELLAN-SOOIN. See Maree (Loch).
ELLAN-USNICH, a small island in Loch Etive,
Argyleshire.
ELLAN-WIRREY. See Shiant Isles.
ELLAR. See Elgar.
ELLEN- A-BAICH, a village in the parish of Kil-
brandon, Argyleshire. Population, 311. Houses,
64. See Easdale.
ELLEN'S ISLE. See Katrine (Loch).
ELLERHOLM. See Shapikshay.
ELLIM. See Ellam.
ELLINOR (Port). See Port-Ellinor.
ELLINORTON, a village in the parish of Kirrie-
muir, Forfarshire. It was founded about 30 years
ago by Mr. Meason of Lindertis. Population about
120.
ELLIOCK, a hum and an estate in the parish of
Sanquhar, Dumfries-shire. The burn runs about 3
miles northward to the Nith, at a point about 1J
mile below the town of Sanquhar. EUioek-house,
on Elliock burn, is notable as the birth-place of the
Admirable Crichton; and the apartment in which
he was born is watchfully preserved in its original
state. His father was an eminent advocate, and a
lord of session in the reigns of Mary and James
VI.; and soon after the birth of his distinguished
son, he sold Elliock estate to the Dalzells, after-
wards Earls of Carnwath, and removed to an estate
which he had acquired in the parish of Clunie, in
Perthshire, — a circumstance which has frequently
occasioned Clunie to be mistakenly named as the
place of the Admirable Crichton's nativity.
ELLIOTT (The), a rivulet in Forfarshire. It
rises in Deity moss, on the western verge of the
parish of Carmylie, and flows through that parish
to the south-eastward, dividing it into two nearly
equal parts, and receiving several small tributaries
in its course ; it next, over 1 J mile's distance, flows
eastward, forming the boundary-line between Car-
mylie and Arbirlot; and it then enters the latter
parish, cuts it from north-west to south-east into
parts of one-third and two-thirds, receives, about its
centre, the waters of Rotten-Raw burn flowing to it
from the west, and eventually falls into the German
ocean about 1J mile south-west of Arbroath. Its
whole course is about 8£ or 9 miles. Its banks
towards Guynd are naturally picturesque and ro-
mantic, and have been beautified by the pleasure-
grounds of the proprietor of the soil ; and, near its
confluence with the ocean, they are finely covered
with trees, and rise into an overhanging precipice
which is surmounted by the romantic-looking castle
of Kelly. •
ELLIOTSTON. See Castle-Semple (Loch).
ELLISLAND. See Dunscore.
ELLON, a district of Aberdeenshire. It com-
prises the central portion of the eastern region of
the county, and forms the southern part of Buchan.
It is bounded by the sea on the east ; by the north-
ern rim of the Craden basin on the north ; and by
the southern rim of the Ythan basin on the south-
west. Its length is about 18 miles ; and its breadth
ELLON.
609
EMANUEL.
about 13. It comprehends the parishes of Udney,
Fpveran, Slains, Logie-Buchan, Craden, Ellon,
Tarves, and Methlick. Population in 1831, 12,831;
in 1861, 16,909. Houses, 3,010.
ELLON, a parish, containing a post-office village
of its own name, in the centre of the sea-hoard region
of Aberdeenshire. It is bounded by Deer, Cruden,
Logie-Buehan, Udney, Tarves, and New Deer. It
extends north and south at an average distance of
about 6 J miles from the sea. Its length is about 10
miles ; its breadth is about 7 miles ; and its area is
about 42 square miles. The river Ythan intersects
it east-south-eastward, placing nearly one-third of
the area on the right bank, and is navigable for
large boats to within half-a-mile of the village.
There is an excellent salmon-fishery on this river.
Near it are some small plantations of fir, ash, elm,
and alder ; but they serve more for ornament than
for use. The surface of the parish is uneven, rough,
and bleak in appearance, and not very productive.
Though there is a good deal of rising grounds, the
height of these is not considerable. The soil on the
low ground is dry ; but in the northern parts it is
generally wet and mossy. The grounds, especially
near the river, are well-cultivated. The aggregate
of arable land is about three-fourths of the whole
area. The tops of many of the rising grounds, in
consequence of the prevailing lowness and compara-
tive flatness of the surrounding country, command
extensive prospects, along the coast and far inland,
even to the Bennachie, the Grampians, and the Spey-
side mountains. The principal landowners are the
Earl of Aberdeen, Gordon of Ellon, and six others.
The present mansion on the estate of Ellon was
built in 1851, and stands a little east of some small
remains of the favourite residence of the present
Earl of Aberdeen's grandfather. The chief mansions
on the other estates are those of Eslemont, Arnage,
Turner-hall, and Dudwick. The real rental is about
£12, 000. The estimated yearly value of raw produce
is between £22,000 and £23,000. Assessed property
in 1843, £9,678. There is, on Lord Aberdeen's estate,
a small carding and spinning mill. The parish is
traversed by the road from Aberdeen to Peterhead
and Fraserburgh. Population in 1831, 2,304; in
1861, 3,913. Houses, 640.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Earl of Aberdeen.
Stipend, £219 2s. 7d.; glebe, £18. Unappropriated
teinds, £568 lis. 8d. The parish church is a very
plain edifice, erected in 1777, and repaired in 1828;
and contains nearly 1,200 sittings. There is a Free
church : attendance, 340 ; sum raised in 1854,
£157 8s. 5d. This was formerly a Congregational
chapel, and was erected in 1825. There are also an
United Presbyterian church, built in 1827, and con-
taining 340 sittings; and an Episcopalian chapel,
built in 1815, and containing 262 sittings. There are
two parochial schools, — the one in the village, with
a total of about £100 emoluments, and the other in
the northern part of the parish, with a total of about
£70 emoluments. There are four non-parochial
schools. The church and church-lands of Ellon
anciently belonged to the abbey of Kinloss in Moray;
and on that account the place was often called Kin-
loss-EUon.
The Village of Ellon stands on the left bank of
the Ythan, and on the road from Aberdeen to Peter-
head and Fraserburgh, 5J miles north-west of New-
burgh, 16 north by east of Aberdeen, and 18 south-
west by south of Peterhead. It was anciently the
seat of the jurisdiction of the earldom of Buchan.
The court of the earldom was held on a slight emi-
nence, called anciently the Earl's hill, but called in
more modern times the moat hill of Ellon, and now
occupied by the stables and yard of one of the prin-
cipal inns of the village. The bridge which takes
the highway across the Ythan stands about ninety
yards above that spot, and is a handsome structure.
A monthly market for cattle and grain is held in
Ellon. Six annual fairs also are held, — two of them
in the village, and the other four on a piece of waste
ground in the neighbourhood. The village has
three benefit societies, a savings' bank, and branch -
offices of the Union hank, the Aberdeen Town and
County bank, and the North of Scotland bank.
Public conveyances run regularly to Aberdeen, —
also in transit between Aberdeen and Peterhead,
between Aberdeen and Fraserburgh, and between
Aberdeen and Strichen.
ELLRIDGE-LOCH, a lake oi f of a mile in
length, in the north-east of the parish of Slamannan,
Stirlingshire. It sends off a tiny stream, of some
water-power, south-westward to the Avon.
ELLSEICKLE, oi Ellsridgehill, a village on
the southern border of the parish of Walston, 4 miles
north by east of Biggar, Lanarkshire. It is a plea-
sant place, in a picturesque situation, and decidedly
superior to most of the small villages of Scotland.
Some stone coffins, a number of years ago, were dug
up at its east end. The estate on which it stands,
and from which it takes its name, was anciently
called Elgerith and Elgerigill, — the name Ellsrickle
being a corruption. The village has a Free church
and a school. Population, 211. Houses, 48.
ELLWICK. See Shapikshat.
ELPHINSTONE, a village and an estate in the
parish of Tranent, Haddingtonshire. The village
stands on the road from Dalkeith to Haddington, g
of a mile from the county boundary, and nearly 2
miles south-south-west of Tranent. The estate was
anciently held in feu of the Winton family, and be-
longed in the 15th century to the Johnstone family.
A massive, square, baronial tower stands here, said
to have been built about the close of the 14th century ;
and is attached to a mansion which was built in
1600. The estate has long been famous for its col-
lieries. Population of the village, in 1861, 388.
ELPHINSTONE. [Stirlingshire.] See Dunmoee.
ELSHIESHIELDS. See Lochmaben.
ELSICK, a quondam estate, now much divided,
in the north of the parish of Fetteresso, Kincardine-
shire; also a burn of about 4 miles in length of
course, which runs eastward through the lands of
Elsick to the sea.
ELSNESS. See Sakda.
ELSEICKLE. See Ellseickle.
ELSWICK. See Shapikshay.
ELVAN (The), an upland stream of the parish of
Crawford, Lanarkshire. It rises close on the boun-
dary-line with Dumfries-shire, at the centre of the
backbone of the Southern Highlands, and runs about
8 miles north-eastward to a confluence with the
Clyde at Elvanfoot. It is famous for the particles
of gold which have been occasionally found in its
sands.
ELVANFOOT, an inn on the road from Glasgow
to Carlisle, and a station on the main trunk of the
Caledonian railway, at the confluence of the Elvan
and the Clyde, 5J miles south-east of Abington and
12 north-west of Moffat. See Crawford and Cale-
donian Railway.
ELY. See Elie.
ELZIOTSTOUN. See Castle- Semple Loch.
EMANUEL, or Manuel Prioey, an ancient edi-
fice, now in ruins, in the parish of Muiravonside,
on the north bank of the Avon, about a mile above
Linlithgow bridge. It was founded in 1156, by
Malcolm IV., surnamed the Maiden, and was occu-
pied by nuns of the Cistertian order. Besides the
2Q
EMBO.
610
ERCHLESS-CASTLE.
\k
endowments bestowed by the royal founder, it re ■
seived considerable donations from others at different
periods. The prioress of this house swore fealty to
Edward I., on the 28th of July, 1291 ; as did Alice,
her successor, at Linlithgow, in 1296. Of this nun-
nery little now remains except the western end of
the church. It is of hewn stone, but unadorned;
yet there is an elegant simplicity in it, and with the
beauty of the surrounding objects, it makes a very
picturesque appearance. Grose has preserved a
view of it.
EMBO, a fishing village in the parish of Dornoch,
Sutherlandshire. Population about 200.
ENDEE (The), a streamlet in the parish of Blair-
Athol, formed by the junction of several smaller
brooks, which, uniting a little above Dalmean in
the west part of Athol, fall into the Garry at Dal-
mean.
ENDEICK (The), a small river, chiefly of Stir-
lingshire, and partly of Dumbartonshire. It rises
in the Gargunnock hills, and flowing towards the
south-east, is joined a small distance from its source
by the Burnfoot burn; after which it forms, for
about lj mile, the western boundary of the parish
of St. Ninian's. It then makes a sharp turn to the
westward, entering the parish of Fintry a little be-
low the old ruin called Sir John de Graham's castle.
A little farther on, it falls over a perpendicular rock
60 feet in height, forming a singular cataract well-
known in the district by the name of ' The Loup of
Fintry.' Continuing its westerly course, it leaves
the kirk of Fintry on the left, and the woods of Cul-
creuch a little on the right ; and then, quitting the
parish of Fintry, it forms for about 5 miles, the
boundary between the parish of Balfron on the north,
and that of Killearn on the south. Near the western
extremity of these parishes it makes a bend towards
the south-west, and enters the parish of Killearn
between the mansion-houses of Boquhan and Carbeth.
After describing various windings it turns directly
southward, forms a singular and romantic waterfall
called the ' Pot of Gartness,' near the once favourite
residence of the illustrious Napier, and is joined by
the Blane near Ooylecky. On receiving this ac-
cession to its waters, it describes a sort of curve,
and turning abruptly towards the west, enters the
parish of Drymen. It is shortly afterward joined by
the Catterburn from the south ; upon which it makes
a slight northerly bend ; but, immediately reverting
to the original direction of its course, it passes a
little to the south of the kirk-town of Drymen and
the Duke of Montrose's noble mansion-house of
Buchanan, forms the bounding-line between the
counties of Stirling and Dumbarton, and finally falls
into Lochlomond at Balmaha, little more than a mile
south-west from the kirk of Buchanan, and about
half-a-mile from the small island Aber in Loch-
lomond. Many parts of the banks of the Endrick
are of great beauty; and the valley through which
it flows has been celebrated in Scottish song under
the name of ' Sweet Innerdale.' Franck, in his
quaint ' Northern Memoirs,' (1694,) speaks of " the
memorable Anderwick, a rapid river of strong and
stiff streams; whose fertile banks refresh the
borderer, and whose fords, if well examined, are
arguments sufficient to convince the angler of trout ;
as are her deeps when consulted, the noble race and
treasure of salmon; or remonstrate his ignorance in
the art of angling. Besides this Anderwick," he
adds, " there are many other small rivulets that
glide up and down these solitary parts."
ENGINE, New Engine, and Old Engine.
Three collier villages in the parish of Newton, Edin-
burghshire. They are situated between Dalkeith
i and Niddry, near the route of the Hawick branch of
the North British railway. Engine is also called
Sheriffhall Engine. Population of Engine, 47; of
New Engine, 51 ; of Old Engine, 49. Houses in
Engine, 11; in New Engine, 9 ; in Old Engine, 12.
ENHALLOW, one of the Orkneys, constituting
part of the parish of Eotisay. It is about a mile in
circumference, and is separated from Eousay by a
reef of rocks, which being covered at high water,
have sometimes proved fatal to the unwary mariner.
The Sound of this name is on the south, between it
and the island of Pomona. As it is narrow, and the
tide rapid, it should only be attempted with a fair
wind, and in moderate weather. Population of
Enhallow in 1831, 20; in 1851, 24. Houses, 3.
ENNERIC (The), a romantic stream of Glen-
urquhart in Inverness-shirc. It flows from Gorry-
mouny into the still basin of Loch Meikly, and runs
eastward thence to Loch Ness, performing altogether
a course of about 10 miles. A very picturesque
cascade, called the Fall of Moral, occurs a little be-
low its source ; and near this is a large cave in which
some leading Jacobites concealed themselves for a
time after the rebellion of 1745.
ENNEEUEIE. See Inverury.
ENNEEWICK. See Inneewick.
ENNICH(Loch), the chief of several lakes in
Glenennich, in the parish of Eothiemurchus, Inver-
ness-shire; overhung on all sides except one by
sublime precipices.
ENOCH (Loch). See Minnigaff.
ENOCH HILL. See Cumnock (New).
ENSAY, an island of about 5 miles in circumfer-
ence, situated 2 miles south-west of the main body
of Harris, in the Outer Hebrides. It is verdant all
over, and well cultivated. Population in 1841, 16;
in 1861, 15. Houses, 2.
ENTERKIN (The). See Duerisdeer.
ENZIE, a district of the north-west of Banffshire.
It extends from the burn of Buckie to the Spey ; but
is popularly regarded as comprising the whole of the
parishes of Eathven and Bellie.
ENZIE, a quoad sacra parish, comprising the
western part of Rathven and eastern part of Bellie,
Banffshire. Its length is about 6 miles ; and its
breadth about 4. It has a post-ofEce station of its
own name ; also contains the post-office village of
Port-Gordon. The patrons are the Duke of Rich-
mond, and other trustees. The stipend is £62 8s.,
together with about £8 other emoluments and the
profits of a farm. The church was built in 1785,
and enlarged in 1815 and 1822, and contains 400
sittings. There is also a Free church of Enzie :
attendance, 320; sum raised in 1854, £126 15s. lljd.
EOLAN (The), a small tributary of the Etive, in
the parish of Ardchattan, Argyleshire.
EORODALE-POINT, a headland in the island
of Lewis, 3 miles south-east of the Butt of Lewis.
EOESA, a small island in the parish of Kilfinichen,
Argyleshire. It lies near Iona, and formerly be-
longed to the abbey of that place. It was described
by Dean Munro in 1549 as "fertile and full of
corn; " but it is now used solely as a piece of sheep
pasture. It belongs to the Duke of Argyle.
EOUSMIL, an insulated rock about half-a-mile in
circuit, lying on the west side of North Uist. It is
noted for its seal-fishing.
EOY, a small island of the Hebrides, lying be-
tween Barra and South Uist.
ERCHLESS-CASTLE, a modernized stately old
tower, in the parish of Kiltarlity, Inverness-shire.
It stands in Strathglass, a little below the conflu-
ence of the Glass and the Farrar, about 7 miles
north-west of Beauly. " It belongs," says Miss
Sinclair, " to the descendants of that old chief, who
said there were but three persons in the world en-
ERIBOLL.
611
ER1CKSTANEBRAE.
titled to be called ' The,'— the King, the Pope, and
the Chisholm. This place is beauty personified;
and you would fall in love with it at first sight.
The castle is a venerable white-washed old tower,
so entirely surrounded by a wreath of hills that the
glen seenis scooped out o'n purpose to hold the house
and park."
ERCILDOUNE. See Earlston.
ERIBOLL (Loch), an arm of the Northern
Atlantic ocean, in the parish of Durness, Suther-
landshire. See Duexess. It is about 11 miles in
length, and varies in breadth from 1 to 3 miles, and
in depth from 15 to 60 fathoms. At Camisendun-
bay, about 7 miles from its entrance, is excellent
anchorage, and a ferry 2 miles broad. Its eastern
shore, from the Whiten-head southwards, presents
a series of caves and arches " the most extensive
and extraordinary," according to Macculloch, "on
any part of the Scottish coast." At its upper end is
some fine alpine scenery, amongst mountains of
quartz and grey slate, in which Benhope is con-
spicuous. See Benhope.
ERICHKIE (The), a mountain stream in the
north of Perthshire. It rises near the eastern part
of the watershed between Loch Ericht and Loch
Rannoch, and runs about 10 miles eastward, down
a wild glen named from it Glen-Erichkie, to a con-
fluence with the Garry at a point about 4 miles
above Blair- Athole.
ERICHT, or Erochd (Loch), a lake partly in the
parish of Fortingall, county of Perth, and partly in
the parish of Laggan, county of Inverness. It is
about 16 miles in length, and 1 mile in breadth.
The New Statistical Account mentions, that accord-
ing to an ancient tradition, the district now covered
by the waters of this lake was formerly dry, and con-
stituted an entire parish called Feadail; and that the
entire parish, with its inhabitants, was overwhelmed
in one night, by the sudden bursting of an immense
body of subterranean water. The tradition also
states, that for long afterwards the church and part
of the principal village could be seen under the water
in clear weather. There is no road to Loch-Ericht;
but it may be visited at its southern extremity,
either from the head of Loch-Rannoch, or from the
inn at Dalnacardoch ; though from either of these
places a huge extent of bog, moor, moss, and moun-
tain has to be traversed. There is no road along its
banks, and no house upon them, with the exception
of a solitary hunting-lodge, and the hut of a shep-
herd near its upper extremity. Nothing can exceed
the solitude and desolation of its shores. Rocks
bared by the winter storm — lofty, precipitious, and
sometimes perpendicular — surround it; and every
where are scattered huge blocks of stone which frost
or torrents of rain have detached from the mountains.
Vegetation seems here almost at an end. The bleat-
ing of sheep, the barking of the dog, or the cry of
the shepherd, seldom if ever break the silence of this
silent place. The visitor finds himself alone amid
the silence of nature, — of nature in its wildest form.
At the south end, is a rock of 300 or 400 feet per-
pendicular height. Its summit is accessible with
great difficulty ; and here is to be seen an ancient
fortification, the laborious work of an early people
who had at one time inhabited this district. It is
about 500 feet in length, and 250 in breadth, over
the walls. The walls are upwards of 15 feet in
thickness, and are constructed of large squared broad
stones, firmly laid together, though without mortar.
The general purpose of such an erection is abund-
antly obvious ; but the time when or the people by
whom, it was erected, it is now impossible to ascer-
tain. On the east side of the lake, about a mile or
two from the south end, a small cave is pointed out
as having afforded shelter and concealment to the
young Chevalier after the battle of Culloden. He
had wandered previously for some time amid the
wilds of Moidart. the islands, and Lochaber, and had
made many hairbreadth escapes from being taken
by his ruthless pursuers, when, learning that
Cameron of Lochiel and M'Donald of Keppoch, two
of his most devoted followers, were concealed in
Badenoch, he set off to them, and found them at
this cave on the shores of Loch-Ericht. The cave
is small, and is formed by detached blocks of stone
which, having fallen down to their present situation,
form a small opening which might receive two or
three individuals. The fugitives, however, had en-
larged its dimensions, by erecting a hut of trees in
front of its entrance, from which circumstance it
obtained the name of the cage, by which it was
popularly known at the time. A more effectual
place of concealment, or one less likely to be in-
truded upon than this at Loch-Ericht, could hardly
have been selected. Dr. Macculloch says : "At the
southern extremity, Loch-Ericht terminates in flat
meadows, vanishing by degrees in the moor of Ran-
noch, and in that wild and hideous countiy which
extends to Glen-Spean along the eastern side of Ben
Nevis. This is indeed the wilderness of all Scot-
land. The wildest wilds of Ross-shire and Suther-
land are accessible and lively, compared to this.
They might, at least, contain people, though they
do not ; which this tract never could have done, and
never will nor can. I know not where else we can
travel for two days without seeing a human trace —
a trace, a recollection, of animal life — and with the
dreary conviction that such a thing is impossible.
It is indeed an inconceivable solitude, a dreary
and joyless land of bogs, a land of desolation and
grey darkness, of fogs ever hanging on Auster'a
drizzly beard, a land of winter and death and obli-
vion. Let him who is unworthy of the Moor of Ran-
noch be banished hither. \Yhere he can go next, I
know not ; unless it be to New South Shetland."
ERICHT (The), a stream of the parish of Fort-
ingal, Perthshire. It issues from the foot of Loch
Ericht, and runs about 5 miles southward to Loch
Rannoch. For a mile or two, it is slow and deep ;
but afterwards it is a sheer torrent, lashing and
tearing its banks with wild fury.
ERICHT (The), a river in the east of Perthshire.
It is formed by the junction of the Airdle and the
Shee in the parish of Blairgowrie, which it crosses,
and flowing in a south-easterly direction forms the
boundary between that parish and the parish of Rat-
tray. It then flows through the parish of Bendochy
in the same direction, and falls into the Isla nearly
opposite Balbrogy. in the parish of Cupar-Angus.
Its channel is rocky, and its stream rapid and turbu-
lent. The scenery on its banks is in many places
singularly romantic, particularly in the neighbour-
hood of Blairgowrie, at a spot called Craiglioeh,
where the rocks rise perpendicularly on each side
to a height of more than 200 feet, and for about 700
feet along the western bank are as smooth as if hewn
with the chisel. The entire course of the river does
not exceed 17 miles.
ERICKSTANEBRAE, a lofty hill, contiguous to
the point in which the counties of Lanark, Peebles,
and Dumfries meet. Along the side of it, above a
dangerous declivity, the public road from Edinburgh
to Dumfries passes. Here an immense hollow, ot
a square form, made by the approach of four hills
towards each other, receives the popular name of
the Marquis of Annandale's Beef-stand, — the An-
nandale reavers having, in former times, often con-
cealed stolen cattle in this place.
ERIGIE. See Dores.
ERISAY.
612
ERSKINE.
ERISA (Loch). See Mull.
ERISAY, one of the smaller Hebrides, lying be-
tween North Uist and Harris.
ERISKA, an island in the mouth of Loch Creran,
Argyleshire. See Ceekak (Loch) .
ERISKA, a small island of the Hebrides, on the
south side of South Uist. It is noted for having
been the first place upon which Prince Charles Stu-
art landed, in his attempt to regain the throne of
his ancestors. It measures about 3 miles in length
from north to south, and is separated by only a
narrow sound from South Uist. Population in 1841,
80 ; in 1881, 396. Houses, 79.
ERISORT (Loch), a sea-loch, about 10 miles in
length, but comparatively narrow, entering the east
side of the island of Lewis, at a point about 8 miles
south of Stornoway, and penetrating south-west-
ward to within 2 miles of the head of Loch Seaforth.
The mouth of it contains many excellent anchorages
for ships of any size. It is much frequented by sea-
craft, and is known to mariners as the Barkin Isles,
from a cluster of islets at its entrance. A large
cave challenges the attention of the curious in one
of these islets called Tanneray.
ERIVIST (The), a small stream of Haddington-
shire, Berwickshire, and Edinburghshire. It rises
on Soutra hill, runs 4 miles south-westward along
the boundary between Haddingtonshire and Ber-
wickshire, and proceeds 1J mile farther in the same
direction through the parish of Stow, to a confluence
with the Gala.
ERNAN (The), an early affluent of the Don, in
the uplands of Aberdeenshire. It rises on the con-
fines of Banffshire, and runs about 6 miles eastward,
chiefly through the upper section of Tarland, to a
confluence with the Don at Inverernan.
ERNCRAGS (Loch), a small lake near the centre
of the parish of Crossmichael, Kirkcudbrightshire.
It contains two islets, which were formerly fre-
quented by sea-gulls. It emits a stream, which
drives a meal-mill, to which nearly all the parish is
thirled; and, but for this, it might be in a main de-
gree or altogether drained.
ERNE. See Earn.
ERNSHEUCH. See Coldixgham.
EROCHD. See Ebicht.
ERRIBOLL. See Eeiboll.
ERRICKSTANEBRAE. See Eeickstanebeae.
ERROL, a parish, containing a post-office village
of its own name, also the villages of Leetown, West-
town, Grange, Drums, Pitrodie, and Mains of Errol,
in the Carse of Gowrie, Perthshire. It is bounded
by the Tay, and by the parishes of St. Madoes, Kin-
fauns, Kilspindie, Kinnaird, and Inchture. Its
average length is about 5J miles; its average breadth
about 3 miles ; and its superficial extent 8,626 im-
perial acres, or rather more than 15 square miles.
Its surface, like that of the restof the Carse of Gowrie,
is generally flat. In the west, however, there are
several ridges of slight elevation, which extend in
a direction nearly parallel with the Tay, and give a
pleasing diversity to the landscape. The soil is
principally composed of alluvial clay; and scarcely
a single rood of land is out of cultivation. At the
quarry of Clashbennie, near the western extremity
of this parish, a number of remarkable fossil remains
and impressions were some years ago discovered.
The quantity of sandstone excavated from this quarry
yearly was between 4,000 and 5,000 tons. The chief
wealth of the district consists in the agricultural
produce. The valued rent is £16,982 Scots. The
real rent in 1829 was £26,000 sterling. The prin-
cipal landowners are Lord Kinnaird, Allan of Er-
rol, Allan of Inchmartin, Milne of Murie, Craigie
of Glcndoick, Hay of Leys, and ten others. The
yearly value of raw produce was estimated in 1837,
at £63,940. Assessed property in 1843, £20,260 5s.
6d. About 300 persons are employed as weavers of
linen fabrics. Considerable traffic in the way of
export and import is done at the small harbour of
Port-Allen. The parish is traversed by the great
road from Perth to Dundee, and by the Perth and
Dundee railway; and its extremities are distant re-
spectively, 7 miles from Perth and 9 from Dundee.
Population in 1831, 2,992 ; in 1861, 2,759. Houses
576.
This parish is in the presbytery of Perth, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, Allan of Er-
rol. Stipend, £310 13s. lOd. ; glebe, £18. Unap-
propriated teinds, £407 17s. 5d. Schoolmaster's
salary, £34, with about £35 fees, and £25 other
emoluments. The parish church is a chaste cruci-
form structure, in plain Saxon style, with a quad-
rangular tower, erected in 1831 after designs by Gil-
lespie Graham, and contains 1,450 sittings. There
is a Free church: attendance, 250; sum raised in
1854, £195 Is. 9d. There are two United Presby-
terian churches at Errol, with respectively 242 and
751 sittings. There is also an United Presbyterian
church at Pitrodie, with 320 sittings. There are in
the parish four private schools; and there is now
bmlding a large industrial school for girls.
The Village of Eerol is situated near the Tay,
about half-way between the eastern and western
boundaries of the parish. Its position is very de-
lightful, on a slight rising ground which commands
a delightful prospect, particularly towards the south
and west. Its inhabitants are principally weavers
and operatives. A fair, principally for hiring, is
held on the last Wednesday of Jul}'. There is a
station for the village at a near point of the Perth
and Dundee railway. A charter of the time of Wil-
liam the Lion, constituted Errol a burgh of barony.
This place gives the title of Earl to_the noble family
of Hay; whose ancestors were proprietors of the
estate of Errol, but were obliged to sell it in 1634.
The earldom was created in 1452; and the modern
seat of the family is Slaines castle in Aberdeenshire.
Population of the village, in 1861, 1,0S6.
ERSKINE, a parish on the northern border of
Renfrewshire. It contains the post-office village of
Bishopton, and the hamlets of Blackstown and
Easter Rossland. It is bounded by the Clyde, and
by Inchinnan, Kilbarchan, Houston, and Kilmal-
colm. Its length, east and west, is about 8 J miles ;
and its average breadth is from 2 to 3 miles. The
New Statistical Account distributes it, in imperial
measure, into 5,121 acres, 2 roods, 24 poles of arable
land, 1,431 acres, 1 rood, 28 poles of waste land,
pasture, moss, &c, and 554 acres, 27 poles of wood.
The name is probably derived from the British ir-
isgyn, signifying ' the green rising ground;' though
a foolish legend derives it from a person who is said
to have received the surname Eris Skyne, on occa-
sion of a military achievement in the reign of Mal-
colm II. The tract along the Clyde is flat and fer-
tile. Behind that plain the ground rises consider-
ably. A hilly ridge extends through the western
district. The soil in general is light; but some
tracts are a deep clay. In the north-east division, a
dark grey mould is mixed with gravel ; and in some
places there is till on a bed of freestone. This parish
abounds with good water, but it does not contain any
lake or river, — only some small streams or burns. The
Clyde greatly increases in breadth, and begins to as-
sume the appearance of an estuary, as it passes along
the border ; and it is here crossed by two ferries. One
of these, called Erskine ferry, nearly opposite the vil-
lage of Kilpatrick, being furnished with quays, serv°s
for transporting horses and carriages, as well as foot
ERVARY.
613
ESK.
passengers; the other, called the West ferry, is op-
posite the castle of Dumbarton, and is chiefly used
for foot passengers. In the eastern part of the par-
ish, there are some freestone quarries. The two
great lines of communication between Glasgow and
'Greenock, namely, the railway and the turnpike-
road, pass through the parish ; and the former has a
station in it at Bishopton. There is also ready ac-
cess to all the river steamers at Erskine ferry.
About one half of tbe parish belongs to Lord Blan-
tyre ; and tbe rest is distributed among nearly a
dozen landowners. Tbe yearly value of raw
produce was estimated in 1840 at £27,797. Assess-
ed property in 1843, £8,182 3s. 3d. Population in
1831, 973; in 1861, 1,448. Houses, 176.
The lands of Erskine were the most ancient pos-
session of the distinguished family who assumed
that as their surname, and afterwards became Lords
Erskine and Earls of Mar. They remained in tbe
possession of this estate till the year 1638, when it
was sold by John, Earl of Mar, to Sir John Hamil-
ton of Orbiston. In 1703, it was purchased from the
Hamiltons, by the noble family of Blantyre; to
whom it still belongs. The old mansion-house of
Erskine, which was but recently removed, was si-
tuated near the bank of the Clyde. On a rising-
ground, a little farther down the river, stands the
magnificent modern mansion, the building of which
was commenced by Bobert Walter, 11th Lord Blan-
tyre, who perished accidentally during the commo-
tions at Brussels, in September, 1830. The struc-
ture is in the Elizabethan style, and presents a- fine
appearance from the river. From the house itself
tbe views are varied, beautiful, and extensive. The
pleasure-grounds are finely wooded; and a hand-
some obelisk, which was erected to the memory of
the lamented person just mentioned, by tbe nobility
and gentry of the county, forms a striking and
appropriate accessory to the scene. — The estate of
Bishopton, now the property of Lord Blantyre, has
passed through a number of hands, and belonged
originally to the family of Brisbane. The estate of
Dargavel belongs to J. Hall Maxwell, Esq., the
Secretary of the Highland Society, and the repre-
sentative of the two very ancient families of Hall
and Maxwell. Tbe mansion is in tbe French style
which was introduced to Scotland in the reign of
Mary, and is partly a renovated erection of the year
1574, and partly a new erection of only a few years
ago, the two parts being well matched. Facing
the gate there is an ancient jrew, which in size and
beauty excels any other tree of the same kind in
Renfrewshire. Two other mansions are Drums and
East- Bank. — Bargarran, a noted scene of witch-
craft, has been described in a separate article. —
Walter Young, D.D. and F.R.S. Edinburgh, minis-
ter of this parish, from about 1770 till his death in
1814, was distinguished for his profound and scien-
tific knowledge of harmony. His successor, An-
drew Stewart, M.D., who died in 1839, possessed
great skill in pulmonary complaints.
This parish is in the presbytery of Greenock, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, Lord Blan-
tyre. Stipend, £279 2s. 9d.; glebe, £9 12s. 6d.
Unappropriated teinds, £382 2 s. 4d. Salary of par-
ochial schoolmaster, £30, with about £31 fees and
other emoluments. The parish-church is a hand-
some Gothic structure, built in 1813, and containing
500 sittings. There is a Free church: attendance,
190 ; sum raised in 1854, £221 12s. 3|d. There are
two non-parochial schools, a parochial library, a
friendly society, and a savings' bank.
ERVARY, a hill in the parish of North Knap-
dale, Argyleshire, commanding a series of delight-
ful prospects.
ERVIE, a post-office station, subordinate to Stran-
raer, Wigtonshire.
ESK, a Celtic name, used both by itself and as a
prefix, signifying 'water,' but applied most common-
ly to a stream.
ESK (Loch), a small mountain lake, emitting one
of the head-streams of the South Esk, near the
upper extremity of tbe parish of Clova, on the west-
ern border of Forfarshire.
ESK (The), a river of Dumfries-shire, formed by
the Black Esk and tbe White Esk. From the point
where these streams unite, the Esk flows 3J miles
south-south-eastward through the parish of Wester-
kirk. Hemmed in here by Craighill, it sweeps with
a rapid circuit round its base, and then, for 14. mile,
forms the boundary between Westerkirk and Lang-
holm. Entering the latter parish, it flows east,
north, and east, and debouches to the south, within
the space of 1 J mile ; and thenceforth continues,
with the exception of unimportant sinuosities, to
have a direction to the east of south, till it receives
the waters of the Liddel, and thence to the west of
south, till it falls into the Solway frith. It inter-
sects Langholm parish considerably to the eastward
of its middle, and flows past the town of Langholm,
and there receives Ewes water from the north-east,
and Wauchope-water from the south-west. At the
point of leaving Langholm-parish, it is joined by
Tarras water from the east; and, entering Canonbie,
it cuts that parish into two nearly equal parts. At
Canonbie-holm, it receives from the north-east the
wealthy tribute of the Liddel ; and afterwards, for
about a mile, forms the boundary between Scotland
and England. It then enters Cumberland, and hav-
ing become an English river, it receives from its
fatherland the tribute of Glenzier burn, and from the
land of its adoption the richer tribute of Line river,
and, having flowed past Kirkandrews and Long-
town, runs along toward the Solway frith at a point
about 1 J or 2 miles from Sarkfoot, the extreme verge
of Scotland. The Esk is a river of no common
beauty. Till it reaches Broomholm in the south of
Langholm parish, it has its path among mountains
or uplands ; and afterwards it traverses a fertile
plain. But even in its upland regions, especially
in the vicinity of the town of Langholm, it is bril-
liant in the ornaments of river-beauty. Over a great
part of its entire course, it has a shelving or gravelly
bottom, and glides along amidst woodland scenery
and luxuriant haughs, which, in former ages, oft
re-echoed the shouts of war. Measured from the
confluence of the Black and the White Esk, its
course, before leaving Scotland, is about 16 miles;
and after entering Cumberland, between 7 and 8.
ESK (The), a river of Edinburghshire, formed in
Dalkeith park by the confluence of the North Esk
and the South Esk, and running 3 miles northward
thence, through the centre of the parish of Inveresk,
along a luscious lovely vale, past the village of In-
veresk, and between the towns of Musselburgh and
Fisherrow, to the frith of Forth at Musselburgh
links.
ESK (The Black), a river of Dumfries-shire. It
rises near the north-western point of the parish of
Eskdalemuir. For 6 miles it flows in a southerly
direction, cutting its way through a mass of moun-
tains, and receiving numerous tributary rills in its
course ; it then debouches almost at a "right angle,
and for 1J mile flows due east; it now bends sud-
denly round, and for another 1^ mile flows to the
east of south ; and afterwards, over a distance of 2$
or 3 miles, it wends in remarkably bold sinuosities,
east, south, west, east, north-east and east, forming,
part of the way, the boundary-line between Eskdale-
muir and Westerkirk, and eventually, at the south
3ast extremity of the former parish, forming a
confluence with the White Esk. Its whole course
is about 12 miles through rugged mountain scen-
ery, and terminates at a place called Kingpool,
where, according to tradition, a Pictish King was
drowned.
ESK (The North), a river of Forfarshire, formed,
according to some representations, by the confluent
streams called the East water and the West water,
but including, according to others, the whole course
of the former of these streams. Even the East
water, otherwise the North Esk, is formed of three
confluent streams, the Mark, the Lee, and the Brany,
which unite their waters near the centre of the
parish of Lochlee, at Invermark castle. All the
three rise amidst the mountain-range of the Grampi-
ans, on the northern boundary of the county. The
Brany, the shortest of them and the most easterly,
rises at the hill of Cairney, and flows due south over
a distance of 4i miles. The Lee, the most westerly,
rises at the base of Bousties-Ley, and flows very
sinuously in an easterly direction, bearing the name
of the Water of Urick till it enters Lochlee, and on
its egress thence assuming its proper name ; and
traversing altogether, till the point of confluence
with the other streams, a distance of about 1 1 miles.
The Mark, the central stream and the longest, rises
between Wester Balloon, and the Black hill of Mark,
flows northward for about 5J miles, and then bends
round to the south-east, and traverses 6J miles fur-
ther distance till it meets the Brany, and a J of a
mile farther down, the Lee. The East water, or
North Esk, now formed by these united streams,
flows eastward 5A miles till it touches the parish of
Edzell; it then debouches and goes northward about
1J mile, forming the boundary-line between that
parish and Lochlee; it now enters Edzell and inter-
sects it, flowing first eastward, and next south-east-
ward, over a distance of 6 miles; and it finally forms,
for 5 miles, the boundary-line between Edzell and
Kincardineshire, and at the extreme south-east
angle of Edzell, makes a junction with the West
water. In its course it receives the Eftbck, the
Tarf, the Kienny, the Turret, and numerous brooks
and rills; and till it emerges from among the Gram-
pians, 4 miles above the point of confluence, it ca-
reers rapidly along a rugged path, and wears the
character of strictly a Highland river.
The West water, called also the Dye, rises at
Stoney loch, in the extreme west of the parish of
Lethnot, and flows south-east 6J miles, north-east
1-J mile, east 2 miles, and again south-east 4 miles,
cutting the parish into two nearly equal parts, re-
ceiving numerous small tributaries, and bearing for
a while the name of the Water of Saughs. It now
flows north-eastward for 2J miles, forming the
boundary-line between Lethnot on the west, and
Menmuir and Strickathrow on the east; and then
flows south-westward 5 miles, dividing the latter
parish on the south from Edzell on the north, when
it unites with the East water to form what all no-
menclatures agree in calling the North Esk. In
the upper and longer part of its course it resembles
the East water in being strictly a mountain-stream ;
and it flows altogether, in its independent course,
about 22 miles. — The North Esk of the united
waters pursues a direction somewhat sinuous, but
in general easterly, traversing a distance of 9 miles,
— dividing the parishes of Strickathrow, Logiepert,
and Montrose on the south, from Kincardineshire on
the north, — diffusing its treasures over a basin of
generally a pleasing, and at intervals a beautiful
appearance, — and gliding away from an overhanging
bank tinted with the hues of fine landscape, to lose
itself in the German ocean, 3 miles north of Mon-
trose. Its entire course, from the head-waters of
the Mark, is about 40 miles.
ESK (The Noeth), a small river, partly of Peebles-
shire, but chiefly of Edinburghshire. It rises in the
parish of Linton in Peebles-shire, in two sources,
respectively at the Boar-stone and the Easter-Cairn-
hill, amid black and barren mountain-scenery.
Having flowed J of a mile eastward, it first turns to
the south-east, and next resumes its easterly direc-
tion, forming for nearly 5 miles the boundary-line
between Peebles-shire and Mid-Lothian, and receiv-
ing, in its course, several tiny tributaries, the chief
of which is Carlops-burn on its right bank. Enter-
ing Edinburghshire at the Powder mills, it flows
about 4 miles north-eastward, till it sweeps past the
village of Penicuick ; when it turns northward, and,
for about 1£ mile, forms the boundary-line between
the parish of Penicuick on the west and that of Lass-
wade on the east. It now runs sinuously for nearly
a mile, turning successively to nearly every point
of the compass, and receiving on its left bank the
tribute of Glencross-burn, and touching over a brief
space the parish of Glencross, and then, over a
direct distance of 4 miles, but with constant mean-
derings in its course, flows in a direction east of
north to Polton. Over half-a-mile hence it touches
the parish of Cockpen on its right bank, next sweeps
past the village of Lasswade, and then, over the
distance of a mile, bends eastward, intersecting a
wing of Lasswade parish. It now, a little eastward
of Melville castle, enters, in an easterly direction,
the parish of Dalkeith, and, after a mile's run, flows
past the town and the ducal mansion of Dalkeith ;
and having already assumed a direction east of north,
it forms, half-a-mile farther on, at the northern limit
of the parish of Dalkeith, a junction with its sister-
stream, the South Esk. Its banks, over nearly its
whole course, after entering Mid-Lothian, are de-
lightfully picturesque and romantic. Though an
inconsiderable brook, while traversing the parish of
Penicuick, it then forms the grand charm of the
beautiful demesnes of Penicuick and Newhall; and
over the parish of Lasswade, it wends its course
through a deep, sequestered, and richly scenic
vale, sweeps round and almost encompasses the
venerable pile of Eoslin castle, and runs thenceforth
along a deep and romantic glen past the caves and
mansion of Hawthornden, and past the finely wood-
ed grounds of Melville castle, on to the gorgeous
scenery of Dalkeith.
" Who knows not Melville's bcechy grove,
And Roslin's rocky glen.
Dalkeith, which .ill the virtues love,
And classic Hawthornden ? "
Some of the tributaries of the North Esk, also, are
replete with the beauties of landscape and the as-
sociations of song; and two of them, in particular,
contest with each other the fame of possessing the
original scenery of Allan Ramsay's ' Gentle Shep-
herd.' See Habbie's Howe. The North Esk, too,
in addition to all the poetic boast of its beauty,
possesses the grand prosaic boast of contributing
largely to the productive aims of agriculture and
manufacture, — driving, in its progress, the machi-
nery of numerous paper and other mills. Its manu-
factories and its mills, however, have destroyed its
reputation as a fishing-stream.
ESK (The South), a river of considerable magni-
tude in Forfarshire. It rises in the extreme north-
west of the county, among the highest of the Gram-
pian range, within half-a-mile of the source of a chiel
tributary of the Aberdeenshire Dee. It flows east-
ward 5 miles, and south-eastward 7, intersecting
longitudinally the oblong parish of Clova, in the
ESK.
615
ESKDALE.
extreme west of which it rises, and receiving in its
orogress Wliite water, and a large number of moun-
tain-rills. It now enters the parish of Cortachie,
and in a south-easterly direction traverses it over a
distance of 7 miles. " Hitherto it moved along a
mountain- path, and was cheerless in its aspect; but
henceforth it luxuriates amid the beauties of Strath-
more, and the richest part of the coast-district
between that fine strath and the sea. For 3 miles
after its intersection of Cortachie, it continues to
flow south-eastward, and divides that parish on the
west from Tannadice on the east; and then, coming
in contact with Prosen water, pouring down upon
it from the west, it makes a gentle bend, and, over the
rest of its course, maintains a direction generally
due east. From the point of its confluence with
the Prosen, it divides the parishes of Kirriemuir,
Oathlaw, and Aberlemno en the south, from those of
Tannadice, Menmuir, and Brechin on the north ; it
then enters the la6t of these parishes, sweeps past
the town of Brechin, situated on its northern bank ;
and after leaving the parish, divides for 2 miles
Marytown on the south from Dun on the north :
and then suddenly expands into the beautiful lagoon,
2J miles by 2, called Montrose basin. See Dux and
Montrose. From this fine expanse, — which alter-
nately gleams in splendour under the flow of the
tide, and, during the recess of the waters, darkens
into the desolate aspect of a wide field of mud — the
river emerges by two narrow outlets, which fork
round an island, "and then converge into a channel J
of a mile wide, along which the river runs to embrace
the ocean at the distance of 1J mile from the exit
from the basin. So narrow are the two gullets along
the sides of the island, compared with the area and
depth of the lagoon, that the tide, both in entering
and in receding, moves with the impetuosity of a
resistless current. Chiefly on this account, the
South Esk, though here washing the walls and
forming the harbour of the populous town of Mon-
trose, and having on its opposite bank the flourish-
ing fishing-village of Ferrydon, and though over-
looked in its inland progress by the important town
of Brechin, and many of the opulent lands as well
as some of the stirring villages of Forfarshire, is of
no benefit as a watery highway of communication
further than J of a mile from the sea. The banks
of the river are adorned with numerous elegant seats
and demesnes, and, in particular, with those of
Brechin castle, Eossie, and Kinnaird. The family
of Carnegie, the proprietors of the last of these, are
descended from noble ancestors who, accepting title
from the river, were called Earls of Southesk. This
river, in a former age, produced pearls of great value,
but has eventually suffered such an exhaustion of
its mussel-beds that no shells have, for a considerable
period, been found old enough to contain the preci-
ous gems.
ESK (The Sodth), a small river, partly of Peebles-
shire, but chiefly of Edinburghshire, the sister-
stream of the North Esk. It issues from a small
lake in the parish of Eddleston in Peebles-shire,
and flows due north over a distance of 3J miles,
forming the boundary-line between Peebles-shire
and Mid-Lothian over the last f of a mile of that
distance, and entering Mid-Lothian at a point only
5 miles east from that where the North Esk enters.
Punning for half-a-mile first north and then east, it
intersects a small wing of the parish of Temple, re-
ceives on its right bank the tribute of Tweeddale-
burn, as far-fetched and as wealthy as its own
waters, and begins, over a distance of 2J miles, and
flowing in a northerly direction, to divide the parish
of Penicuick on the west from that of Temple on the
east. It now, though beginning to ran in constant
beautiful sinuosities which characterize all its sub-
sequent course, assumes a general direction east of
north, and, over a distance of 2 miles, divides the
parish of Carrington from that of Temple, and
receives the wealthy tribute of Gladhouse water,
which, after traversing the whole parish of Temple
from a point on the limits of Mid-Lothian 2 miles
farther south than the source of the South Esk,
flows down upon that river where it debouches to
the east, and drives it suddenly round to a northerly
direction. The South Esk, after its junction with
the Gladhouse, divides, over a distance of 2 miles,
the parish of Carrington on the west from that of
Borthwick on the east, and receives another impor-
tant accession in Borthwick water. It now, for §
of a mile, meanders north-westward, dividing the
parish of Carrington on its left bank from that of
Cockpen on its right; it then, resuming its northerly
direction, intersects the latter parish over a distance
of 1J mile; and thenceforth till, 3 miles farther on,
it blends its waters with those of the North Esk, it
intersects a wing of the parish of Newbattle, and
sweeps past the town and the palace of Dalkeith,
enclosing them between its own waters and those of
its sister-stream in a long and beautiful peninsula.
The banks of the South Esk are, in general, richly
clothed in sylvan dress, and possess a romance and
an attractiveness little inferior to the banks of the
North Esk, though less frequented by the tourist
and more seldom celebrated in description and song.
" Sweet are the paths. — Oh passing sweet, —
By Esk's fail' streams that run,
O'er airy steep, through copsewood deep,
Impervious to the sun."
ESK (The White), a river of Dumfries-shire, of
similar character to the Black Esk, and flowing
parallel to it at an average distance of 3 miles to the
east. Its sources, according to popular nomencla-
ture, are in the mountains a mile east of Ettrick
Pen. But a stream called Bloodhope burn rises a
little to the north-east of these, and flows eircuit-
ously over a considerably longer course than is tra-
versed by the nominally parent stream previous to
their confluence. The White Esk, with the excep-
tion of numerous but brief sinuosities, flows, over
its whole course, almost due south, intersecting the
parish of Eskdalemuir, a little to the eastward of its
middle; and it receives, in its progress, the tributes
of Davington and Garwald from the west, and of
Langshaw burn and Eae burn from the east, — all,
like itself, rising in the central mountain-range of
the Southern Highlands of Scotland. Its basin,
though looking occasionally up some cleughs, and
containing a few spots of some interest, is rather
the deeply-cut course of a mountain-stream than a
dale or valley. The course of the river, till it forms
a confluence with the Black Esk, is, including
windings, about 15 or 16 miles.
ESKADALE, a hamlet and a mansion in the
lower part of Strathglass, midwav between Beauly
and Erchless-castle, Inverness-shire. Here is a
neat Eoman Catholic chapel, erected some years
ago, at considerable expense, by Lord Lovat.
Eskadale-house is a handsome place, and commands
an extensive view of the strath.
ESKBANK, a station on the Hawick branch of
the North British railway, ^ a mile south-west of
Dalkeith, and 8 miles south-east of Edinburgh.
Eskbank-house, built in 1794 by the minister of
Newbattle, and now belonging to the Duke of Buc-
cleuch, overlooks the finely wooded banks of the
North Esk, and commands a beautiful prospect to
the west and the north.
ESKDALE, the eastern district of Dumfries-
ESKDALE.
616
ESKDALEMUIR.
shire, the smallest of the three sections into which
that county is popularly divided. These sections
seem never to have had fixed or accurately defined
boundaries, and are loosely represented as corre-
sponding with the watersheds of the great rivers,
the Nith, the Annan, and the Esk, by which they
are respectively traversed. The considerable terri-
tory, consisting of the parishes of Gretna, Half-
Morton, Kirkpatrick-Fleming, Dornock, and part of
Middlebie, would thus be debateable-ground be-
tween Annandale and Eskdale, or rather would
properly belong to neither. But as that portion of
this ground which lies nearest the Annan is popu-
larly reckoned part of Annandale, so Half-Morton is
fairly viewed as belonging to Eskdale. What lies
within the watersheds of the Esk and its tributaries,
is the territory of the large parishes of Eskdalemuir,
Westerkirk, Ewes, Langholm, and Canonbie. But
in some old documents, Ewes, consisting of the
basin of the tributary river Ewes, is treated as it-
self a section of Dumfries-shire, in common with
these large sections; and in popular language, it is
still styled Ewesdale. — Excepting the parish of
Canonbie, and a stripe of the southern part of that
of Langholm, which are a fine flat county, all Esk-
dale is hilly or mountainous, constituting a large
part of the Southern Highlands of Scotland, and
presenting a bleak and ragged aspect relieved at
intervals by glimpses of beauty. The immediate
basin of the Esk, till it approaches the southern
boundary of Langholm, is rather a deep river-course
than a valley; and it opens, at frequent intervals,
particularly at the confluences with its own stream
of the Black Esk, the Meggot, the Ewes, and the
Wauchope, into lateral river-courses similar in
character to itself. Nearly the whole of the upland
and greatly larger section of Eskdale is, in conse-
quence, pastoral and thin in population.
In all its parts, Eskdale was settled, early in the
12th century, by Anglo-Norman barons and then-
followers. Robert Avenel received from David I.,
in reward of military services, Upper and Lower
Eskdale. He seems to have been a councillor of
Malcolm IV., and a courtier of William the Lion.
Having granted a large portion of the estates to the
monks of Melrose, he retired from the world and
joined their society. Gervaise, his son and heir,
confirmed to the monks the grant of Upper Eskdale,
and, in 1219, was buried in their cemetery. Roger
Avenel, the successor of Gervaise, though acknow-
ledging the monks' property in the lands they had
obtained, disputed their right to hunt upon them,
and successfully made an appeal against that right
to Alexander II. and his barons. The property of
the Avenels seems now to have passed, by female
heirs, into the possession of other families. The
manor of Westerkirk, occupying the middle part
of Eskdale, was probably granted, along with Lid-
desdale and some lands in Teviotdale, by David I.,
to his follower Ranulph de Soulis. This estate,
however, was forfeited by the Soulises during the
critical and tempestuous period of the war of the
succession. During the reign of Malcolm IV., the
lower part of Eskdale was held chiefly by two
brothers of the name of Rossedal. Guido de Ros-
sedal possessed lands on both sides of the Lower
Liddel. Turgot de Rossedal, and afterwards his
successor William, owned a large part of the lands
between the Esk and the Liddel, and between the
Esk and the Sark; and Turgot founded a religious
house, called the Priory of Canonbie, on the former
section of the property, and bestowed the adjacent
estate on the monks of Jedburgh. During the
reigns of Robert I., and his feeble son David II.,
Eskdale, including Ewesdale, was in a great mea-
sure acquired by the grasping Douglas, and, with
ample jurisdiction, erected into a regality. This
extensive and powerful lordship remained with the
Douglases till their forfeiture in 1455; and was
then acquired by the Maxwell family, and continued
with them throughout the 16th and 17th centuries.
In 1610, John, Lord Maxwell, erected the town of
Langholm into a baronial burgh; and the jurisdic-
tion of Eskdale was sometimes, in consequence,
called the regality of Langholm. After the regality
came into the possession of the family of Buccleuch,
it was enlarged by the annexation of what had be-
longed, in upper Eskdale, to the monks of Melrose.
In 1747, the Duke of Buccleuch was compensated
for the jurisdiction by the receipt of £1,400 sterling.
ESKDALE, a post-office station, subordinate to
Langholm, Dumfries-shire.
ESKDALEMUIR, a parish in the north-west of
Eskdale, Dumfries-shire. Its post-town is Lang-
holm. It is bounded by the counties of Selkirk and
Roxburgh, and by the parishes of Westerkirk,
Hutton, and Moffat. Its length, southward, is llj
miles; its extreme breath is 9J miles; and its area
is about 66 square miles. Nearly all its surface is
mountainous, heathy, and of a moory appearance,
appropriately designated Eskdale-mm'r. The high-
est summits are Ettrick Pen on the northern
boundary, and Loch Fell on the western. The for-
mer rises 2,200 feet above the level of the sea, and
is also, and more justly, called Eskdalemuir Pen,
constituting a prominent feature in the landscape
of Eskdalemuir, and being imperfectly and limitedly
seen in Etterick. The soil of the parish is, in gen-
eral, very deep, but mossy, unproductive of fine vege-
tation, and carpeted with carices or with a coarse
grass. Along the banks of the White Esk the hills
are, for the most part, green, and afford excellent
pasture; and there are a few meadows or holms
which repay cultivation. The parish is cloven into
mountain-ridges by the White and the Black Esk,
and very numerous tributaries. Near the northern
boundary, on the brook Pinglandhope, is a cascade
called Wellsburnspout, of about 56 feet in height.
In the western division, on Garvald water, is an-
other cascade, peculiarly romantic. See Garvald
Water. On almost every hill of the parish are
marks of encampments, some rectangular, and some
of a circular or oval form. On the top of a hill on
the farm of Yetbyre, near the confluence of the
Esks, is a very complete oval encampment, which
has long and generally been regarded as the cele-
brated Roman camp of Castle-over, Castle-o'er, or
Overbie, which, as an upper station, communicated
by a causeway with the camps of Middlebie and
Netherbie. But Dr. William Brown, the venerable
minister of the parish, the statistical reporter of it
both in the Old Account and in the New, though
he followed the prevailing opinion in his first
report, became of opinion that the encampment
in question is of Saxon origin; and he discovered,
considerably to the north of it, on a tongue of
land at the confluence of the White Esk and Rae
burn, what appears to be the true Castle-o'er. This
camp, elaborately described by Dr. Brown in the
New Statistical xVccount, contains, in its present
state, an area of 5 acres, 1 rood, and 30 poles,
English; and is supposed to have contained, in its
original condition, 6 acres, 3 roods, and 24 poles.
Within the larger area is a space, 270 feet by 100,
enclosed and fortified. The vallum and fosse remain
still distinct; and the ditch, 20 feet wide, is, on an
average, 5 feet deep. On the farm of Coatt are two
circles of erect stones, in the form of what are popu-
larly styled Druidical temples; the one entire,
measuring about 90 feet; and the other, worn paitjy
ESRAGAN.
G17
ETIVE.
away by tlie Esk, measuring about 340 feet. On
the peninsula at the confluence of the Esks, an an-
nual fair was, in former times, held, at which a
remarkable custom prevailed. At any anniversary
of that fair, unmarried persons, of the two sexes,
chose companions suitable to their taste, with whom
they agreed to live till next anniversary. This
strange paction was called ' hand-fasting,' or 'hand
in fist.1 If, at the return of the fair, they were
mutually pleased with their companionship, they
continued together for life; and if not, they sepa-
rated and were free to make another choice. The
parish is traversed from north to south along the
White Esk by one line of road, and diagonally from
south-west to north-east by another. About two-
thirds of the parish belong to the Duke of Buc-
cleuch; and the rest is distributed among nine
landowners. The total area under the plough is
only about 500 acres. Population in 1831, 650; in
18b' 1, 590. Houses, 110. Assessed property in
1843, £6,765 10s. 9d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Langholm,
and synod of Dumfries. Patron, the Dnke of Buc-
cleuch. Stipend, £240 19s. 2d.; glebe, £20. Un-
appropriated teinds, £699 10s. 8d. The parish
originally constituted part of Westerkirk, and was
disjoined from it in 1703. The church was built in
1826. Sittings nearly 400. There is also a Re-
formed Presbyterian meeting-house; and there are
a parochial library, a parochial school, and a private
school. Parochial schoolmaster's salary, £34 4s.
4Jd., with about £10 fees.
ESKSIDE. See Musselburgh.
ESLEMONT. See Ellon.
ESRAGAN, two streams, the greater and the
lesser Esragan, flowing southward into Loch-Etive
in Argyleshire. They are separated from each
other by Benvean, and terminate respectively at
Inveresragan and at Blarcrea. Their length of
course is about 5 miles.
ESSCUMHAN, a cascade on Leven Water, in the
parish of Kilmorie, in Arran.
ESSENSIDE, a lake of about 20 acres in area,
near the centre of the parish of Ashkirk, Roxburgh-
shire.
ESSET (The). See Tullykessle.
ESSIE, an ancient parish now united to Rhyme
in Aberdeenshire.
ESSIE akd NEVAY, an united parish on the
western border of Forfarshire. The two parishes
comprised in it were united before the middle of the
17th century; and they are of nearly equal size,
and perfectly compact, Essie on the north and
Nevay on the south. The post-town Glammis is 1J
mile east of the nearest part of Essie; and the post-
town Meigle is 1^ mile west of the nearest part of
Nevay. The united parish is bounded by Perth-
shire, and by the parishes of Airlie, Glammis, and
Newtyle. Its length southward is 4J miles; its
extreme breadth is 2f miles; and its area is about 8
square miles. The eastern division consists of part
of the slopes of the Sidlaw-hills; and the western
division consists of a portion of Stratlnnore. The
Dean river flows sluggishly along the north, form-
ing the boundary -line over a distance of 2 J miles;
and is noted for the large size and delicious flavour
of its trouts. Three rivulets, two of them indigen-
ous, intersect the parish, or, for a short way, trace
its boundary. One of these, the bum of Essie, rises
at the hill of Auchterhouse, in the parish of the same
name, flows northward through Glammis, and, after
entering Essie, drives a mill, bathes the wall of the
church-yard, and at length, 6 miles sinuously from
its source, falls into the Dean. The soil of the
eastern or upland division is a thin black mould on
a bottom of mortar, and more fertile than that o!
any part of the opposite declivity of the Sidlaws;
but toward the summit of the hills it degenerates,
and is suitable only for plantation or for pasturage.
The soil of the eastern or strath division is, in the
south, a level and marshy tract continuous with the
moss of Meigle; and, in the north, it is in some
places thin but fertile, and in others a strong and
rich clay, partially subject to occasional overflow-
ings of the Dean. Nearly all the arable land is in
a state of high cultivation; and only about 540
acres in the whole area, inclusive of 33 of wood,
have not been subjected to the plough. By far
the largest landowner of the united parish is
Lord Whanicliffe ; and there are throe others.
The principal rock is the old red sandstone; and
this in some parts is of a quality to furnish good
building stones. A vein of silver ore, too incon-
siderable, however, to be worked, was at one time
discovered in the south-east corner. The road from
Perth to Forfar and the Scottish Midland Junction
railway traverse the parish; and the latter has a
station in Essie, 2i miles west of Glammis. Popu-
lation in 1831, 654; in 1861, 748. Houses, 152.
Assessed property in 1843, £4,019 4s. 7d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Meigle, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, Lord Wharn-
cliffe. Stipend, £161 5s. 2d.; glebe, £15. School-
master's salary, £34 4s. 4Jd., with £17 5s. 7d. fees.
There were formerly two churches, for respectively
Essie and Nevay, in which divine service was per-
formed alternately ; but an elegant new commodious
one was built a few years ago, in a situation central
for both parishes ; and the two former churches
were allowed to go to ruin. The old manse stood
near the church of Essie, but a new manse was
built contiguous to the new church. There is a
parochial library.
ESSIEMORE. See Arran.
ESSIL, an -ancient parish, now comprehended in
that of Speymouth. See Spestmouth.
ESSMORE. See Auchinchew.
ETHIE. See Cromarty.
ETHIEHAVEN, a small desolate fishing village,
on the south side of Lunan bay, in the parish ol
Inverkeilor, 6 miles north- east by north of Arbroath,
Forfarshire.
ETIVE (Loch), a navigable inlet of the sea, ex-
tending far inland among the mountains, in the
manner of an intricate frith, in the district of Lorn,
Argyleshire. It enters immediately north of the
island of Kerrera, nearly opposite the south-east end
of the Sound of Mull, penetrates eastward 10 miles
to Bimawe ferry, adjacent to the influx of the river
Awe, and stretches thence about the same distance
north-eastward, till it terminates in a point, where
it receives the waters of the Etive river, descending
to it through Glen Etive. Its breadth varies from
200 yards to 2 miles, and is ever changeful and
diversified. Its depth, in what may be called its
channel, varies from 20 fathoms to upwards of 100
fathoms. Its shores are indented with numerous
creeks and bays, which afford safe anchorage in
any wind. A contracted part of it at Connal ferry
has a very dangerous channel, with, at certain
states of the tide, an impracticable current; yet the
whole loch is regularly navigated by vessels of from
60 to 100 tons. The tide rises 14 feet at Connal,
but only 10 feet in the parts above.
" Loch Etive, between the ferries of Connal and
Bunawe," says Professor Wilson, " has been seen
by almost all who have visited the Highlands — but
very imperfectly. To know what it is you must
row or sail up it, for the banks on both sides art
often richly wooded, assume many fine forms, and
ETIVE.
618
ETTRICK.
are frequently well embayed, while the expanse of
water is sufficiently wide to allow you from its
centre to command a view of many of the distant
heights. But above Bunawe it is not like the same
loch. For a couple of miles it is not wide, and it is
so darkened by enormous shadows, that it looks
even less like a strait than a gulf — huge overhang-
ing rocks on both sides ascending high, and yet
felt to belong but to the bases of mountains that,
sloping far back, have their summits among clouds
of their own in another region of the sky. Yet are
they not all horrid; for nowhere else is there such
lofty heather — it seems a wild sort of brushwood.
Tall trees flourish, single or in groves, chiefly
birches, with now and then an oak ; and they are
in their youth or their prime ; and even the pro-
digious trunks, some of which have been dead for
centuries, are not all dead, but shoot from their
knotted rhind symptoms of life inextinguishable by
time and tempest. Out of this gulf we emerge into
the Upper Loch, and its amplitude sustains the
majesty of the mountains, all of the highest order,
and seen from their feet to their crests. Cruachan
wears the crown, and reigns over them all — king at
once of Loch Etive and of Loch Awe. But Bua-
chaille Etive, though afar off, is still a giant, and in
some lights comes forward, bringing with him the
Black Mount and its dependents, so that they all
seem to belong to this most magnificent of all High-
land lochs. ' I know not,' says Macculloch, ' that
Loch Etive could bear an ornament without an
infringement on that aspect of solitary vastness
which it presents throughout. Nor is there one.
The rocks and bays on the shore, which might
elsewhere attract attention, are here swallowed up
in the enormous dimensions of the surrounding
mountains, and the wide and ample expanse of the
lake. A solitary house, here fearfully solitary,
situated far up in Glen Etive, is only visible when
at the upper extremity ; and if there be a tree, as
there are in a few places on the shore, it is unseen ;
extinguished as if it were a humble mountain-flower,
by the universal magnitude around.' This is finely
felt and expressed ; but even on the shores of Loch
Etive there is much of the beautiful; Ardmatty
smiles with its meadows and woods and bay and
sylvan stream ; other sunny nooks repose among
the grey granite masses ; the colouring of the banks
and braes is often bright; several houses or huts
become visible no long way up the glen; and
though that long hollow — half a day's journey — till
you reach the wild road between Inveruran and
King's house — lies in gloom, yet the hillsides are
cheerful, and you delight in the greensward, wide
and rock-broken, should you ascend the passes that
lead into Glencreran or Glencoe. But to feel the
full power of Glen Etive you must walk up it till it
ceases to be a glen. When in the middle of the
moor, you see far off a solitary dwelling indeed —
perhaps the loneliest house in all the Highlands —
and the solitude is made profounder, as you pass by,
by the voice of a cataract, hidden in an awful chasm,
bridged by two or three stems of trees, along which
the red-deer might fear to venture — but we have
seen them and the deer-hounds glide over it, fol-
lowed by other fearless feet, when far and wide
the Forest of Dalness was echoing to the hunter's
horn."
ETIVE (The)^ a river of the north-east of Lorn,
Argyleshire. It rises near King's-house, and runs
in a south-westerly direction about 16 miles, to the
head of Loch Etive. Though at first but a rill, it
receives so many little tributaries as to swell even-
tually to the volume of a river. It has two fine
cascades, respectively near Coinletter and contiguous
to Dalness ; and it is a good fishing-stream. The
glen through which it flows, and to which it gives
the name of Glen Etive, has been already noticed in
the concluding part of the preceding article. All
this glen, though now so naked and lonely, was
once a royal forest, clothed with majestic firs and
oaks.
ETTLETON, a district in the parish of Castle-
ton in Roxburghshire, formerly a rectory and vicar-
age, and the churchyard of which is still in use. It
is situated on the west side of the Liddel, at the
head of the dale.
ETTEICK, a parish in Selkirkshire. Its post-
town is Selkirk, 18 miles from its church ; but
Hawick is as near, and Moffat 2 miles nearer. The
parish is bounded by the counties of Peebles, Dum-
fries, and Roxburgh, and by the parishes of Eoberton,
Kirkhope, and Yarrow. Its length south-westward is
12J miles; its extreme breadth is 10 miles ; and its
area is about 68-69 square miles. Its name was
anciently written Attarick and Atterick, and pro-
bably is a corruption of the Gaelic words Alt-Ericht,
applied to its cognominal stream, and signifying a
stream of rapid descent. The surface of the parish
is a sea of hills, beautiful and varied in appearance,
and everywhere wearing the mantle of romance.
Seen along the water-courses, they rise crest above
crest, hazy and of bleak aspect in the distance ; but
seen in succession, or in near groupings, they are,
in general, exquisitely rounded, and richly arrayed
in verdure, with just a sufficient number of heathy
spots and clumps of plantation to be ornamental to
their dress. Toward the sources of the streams,
along the western and the southern boundaries, the
summits tower aloft to a considerable elevation. Old
Ettrick hill is 1,860 feet above the level of the sea;
Wardlaw or Weirdlaw hill, 1 ,986 ; and Ettrick
Pen, 2,200. But the last, though the highest sum-
mit in the parish, and commanding over three-
fourths of a circle a most extensive prospect, is so
situated behind a congeries of elevations at the
head waters of the Ettrick, as to be very limitedly
a prominent feature of the landscape. The streams
of the parish, the Ettrick, and its tributaries, Tima
water, Rankle burn, and Tushielaw burn, are rapid
and impetuous in their upper course, appearing,
from the overseeing heights, like threads of silver in
fair weather, and like thin long wreaths of soiled
snow when swollen into torrents ; and they cut
their way through gorges or narrow defiles which
afford no scope for expansion into vale or basin.
The Ettrick, however, begins, about the middle of
the parish, occasionally to smooth down the surface
on its banks into rich, luxuriant, blooming haughs;
and, when receiving the waters of its chief tribu-
taries, it is joyous and opulent in its scenery, and
looks aside among the mountains through vistas
delightfully picturesque. The parish, from its ex-
treme south-west angle to the middle of its north-
east boundary, is cut into two nearly equal parts by
the Ettrick ; and is traversed southward in its
southern section by Tima water and Rankle burn,
and eastward in its northern section by Tushielaw
burn. In the north-western verge is the Loch of
Lowes, less than a mile in length, fed by five
mountain-rills, and particularly by the incipient
stream of Yarrow, flowing into it like the drainage
from a city. Communicating with the Loch of
Lowes, lying within a furlong south of it, and
stretching away from the boundary-line into the
conterminous parish of Yarrow, is the beautiful lake
called St. Maey's Loch: which see. Half a mile
west from this lake, at the north-west angle of the
parish, a scarcely visible tract styled the King's
road, mounts over the summit of the hill of Mere-
ETTKICK.
619
ETTRICK-BAY.
cleughead, and is pointed out as the path by which
James V. entered the district to inflict the summary
and unsparing chastisement so lugubriously com-
memorated in song and story. On Ettrick water,
almost at the centre of the parish, stands the little
hamlet of Ettrick, presided over by the chastely
constructed parish-church. The heights imme-
diately around are lofty and of highland aspect,
suggesting thoughts of solitude and mountain might
and darkness which are almost oppressive. A house,
no longer standing, near the lonely church and its
burying-ground and its little straggling retinue of
trees, was the birth-place of Hogg, the Ettrick
Shepherd. In the sequestered cemetery is a fine
monument, of recent erection, over the ashes of
probably the best man who ever hallowed the
' bushy dells' of Ettrick with the breathings of senti-
ment as superior to mere earthly poetry as the
music of the spheres excels the creaking of a rusty
hinge, — the adopted and cherished instructor, for
three generations bygone, of the wisest of Scotland's
peasantry — Thomas Boston, the well-known author
of "The Fourfold State."
On the south side of the Ettrick, nearly opposite
the church and beneath the shadow of an existing
stronghold called old Ettrick house, formerly stood a
village, which was barbarously destroyed about the
commencement of the 18th century. A mile-and-a-
half below the church, on the same side of the
stream, are the modern mansion and the ancient
tower of Thirlestane, both finely shaded by some
venerable ash-trees, and beautified by a rising plan-
tation. Thirlestane is the seat of Lord Napier, the
lineal descendant of the ancient family of Scotts of
Thirlestane, and the inheritor, by maternal right,
of the name of Napier. On the opposite side of the
river, at half-a-mile's distance, are vestiges of the
tower of Gamescleuch, built by one of Lord Napier's
ancestors. Two miles farther down the vale of the
Ettrick is touched from the south by the minor vale
of Rankle burn. Following the latter between a
dense pressuve of hills, and a sabbath silence and an
awfulness of solitude, a tourist arrives, after a pro-
gress of 2J miles, at the two lonely farm-steadings
of the Buccleuchs, on one of the earliest estates of
the powerful family to whom it has given title : for
uIn Scotland no Bnckcleneh was then.
Before the hack in the clench was slain."
Both tradition and song trace the name to the seiz-
ing and killing of a buck in a cleuch ; and they
minutely describe and even identify the localities of
the event — a spot in the cleuch where the buck was
taken, and the spot on which it was slain. In the
cleuch thus celebrated by association with the name
and the splendours of a ducal family, are moss-
grown traces of an old corn-mill, sung and sati-
rized by poetry, — there never having been an acre
of corn raised in the whole glen. A mile-and-a-
half higher up Rankle burn, in a deep solitude, fre-
quented only by the sheep in their upland walks,
are traces of the wall and the church-yard dyke of
the old parish-church of Buccleuch. See Buccleuch.
Overlooking the confluence of Rankle burn with the
Ettrick, on a declivity rising from the left bank of
the latter stream, stand the dingy ruins of the old
tower of Tushielaw, celebrated alike in song, in
tradition, and in history. Tushielaw was the pro-
perty and stronghold of a powerful section of the
clan Scott, and figures in many a story of their
stirring and ruthless movements as reavers and
freebooters. Adam Scott, one of the family, and
currently called ' king of the thieves,' and ' king of
the border,' roused by his exploits the slumbering
wrath of James V. ; and, in the course of a judicial
excursion of the monarch among the fastnesses ol
' the forest,' is traditionally reported to have been
one morning seized by him before breakfast, and
summarily hung up under the shadow of his own
stronghold. The tree from which he was suspended
is an old ash, still standing among the rains, and
stiil currently called the gallows-tree; and, strangely
enough, long bearing upon its branches numei'ous
nicks and hollows traced by ropes in his ruthless
execution of wretched captives on whom he inflicted
the fate which eventually became his own. — A
road, in excellent condition, leading up from Sel-
kirk, passes along the whole vale of the Ettrick,
and leaves the parish at Permanscore, to lead down
to Moffat. A branch-road from this strikes off
half-way between Thirlestane and Ettrick church,
and goes up Tima water, leaving the parish at the
source of that stream to pass through Dumfries-
shire on to Carlisle. Another road leads off, from
the head of Ettrick, round along the west to the
head of the vale of Yarrow. The principal land-
owners are the Duke of Buccleuch and Lord Napier;
the latter of whom is resident. The yearly value
of raw produce was estimated in 1833 at £12,746.
Assessed property in 1843, £7,844 6s. 9d. Popula-
tion in 1831, 530; in 1861, 454. Houses, 79.
This paiish is in the presbytery of Selkirk, and
svnod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, Lord
Napier. Stipend, £253 10s. 8d.; glebe, £28. Un-
appropriated teinds, £506 2s. 9d. Schoolmaster's
salary, £34 4s. 4Jd., with about £16 fees. The
present church was built on the site of a previous
one in 1824, and contains nearly 500 sittings. The
present parish includes, on the east, the old parish
of Buccleuch. In the south-west, in the glen of
Kirkhope burn, there was, in ancient times, a church
called Kirkhope. In the north-west corner, in a
vale called Chapel-hope, at the south-west angle of
the Loch of Lowes, there was a chapel, probably
subordinate to the mother-church of St. Mary in
Yarrow.
ETTRICK (The), a river of Selkirkshire. It
rises. in the extreme south-west angle of the county;
and, with few sinuosities, pursues a north-easterly
direction over its whole course. The source of its
highest head-water is on the south side of the central
summits of the highest mountain-range of the South-
ern Highlands, among some rushes between Loch-
fell and Capel- fell, 2 miles above a farm-house which
stands 1,212 feet above the level of the sea, and is
reported to he the most loftily situated house in
Scotland. For 12 miles, including windings, the
river intersects the parish of Ettrick, receiving in-
numerable rills or mountain-torrents, and three con-
siderable tributaries in its course, and spanned by
a bridge above the confluence with Tima water. It
now, for half-a-mile, divides Ettrick from Yarrow ;
and, having entered the latter, traverses it over a
distance of about 8J miles, making a beautiful de-
tour below Gilmanscleuch, and crossed by a bridge
at the village of Ettrick-Bridge. It then, for 2J or
3 miles, very eireuitously forms the boundary-line
between Yarrow and Selkirk ; receives, on the left
bank, the rejoicing waters of the Yarrow ; and, over
a distance of 2 J miles, intersects the parish of Sel-
kirk, flowing past the burgh, and crossed there by
a neat bridge. It now, for half-a-mile, intersects a
tiny wing of Roxburghshire ; next, for 1J mile, di
vides that county from Selkirkshire ; and then falls
into the Tweed 2 miles below the town of Selkirk.
Its entire course is about 28 miles. As to the ap-
pearance of its banks, see the articles Ettkick,
Yarrow, and Selkirk.
ETTRICK-BAY, a bay, about 1J mile wide,
penetrating the laud nearly 2 miles, a little north
ETTRICK-BRIDGE.
620
EVELICK.
of the middle of the west side of the island of Bute.
A dingle extends from the head of this hay to the
head of Karnes bay, directly across the island ; and
a vale, called Glenmore, descends southward to the
north side of Ettrick bay, bringing down a rivulet
from a point within 2 miles of the northern extrem-
ity of the island.
'ETTRICK-BRIDGE, a village in the parish of
Kirkhope, Selkirk-shire. It stands on the Ettrick, 7
miles south-west of Selkirk. Population, 108.
Houses, 26.
ETTRICK-FOREST, a popular, poetic, and his-
toric name for the whole or chief part of Selkirk-
shire, together with some contiguous parts of
Peebles-shire and Edinburghshire. All the country
drained by the Ettrick and the Yarrow, and part of
that drained by some of the other head-streams of
the Tweed, as also the country now forming the
upper ward of Clydesdale, were anciently a literal
forest, the remains of the ancient Caledonian forest.
The most numerous woods were oaks, mingled with
birch and hazel. Great numbers of oaks have even
very recently been dug up in mosses which evi-
dently owed their formation to the stagnation of
waters upon the neglected woodlands. The forest,
judging from the prevalence of a Saxon nomen-
clature throughout the district, appears to have
been early settled by the Northumbrian Saxons.
From the time of Earl David, through several cen-
turies, many grants were made, chiefly to the abbeys
of Selkirk, Melrose, and Kelso, of various ' ease-
ments ' within the ample scope of the forest. At the
close of the 13th century Edward I., acting as the
sovereign of Selkirkshire, gave away the forest's
timber ; and was followed in his conduct by Ed-
ward II. and Edward III. At the accession of
Robert Bruce the forest was given to Sir James
Douglas in guerdon of his services; and it continued
with his family till their forfeiture in 1455. On the
4th of August, in that year, Ettrick forest was, by
act of parliament, annexed to the Crown. Abound-
ing in beasts of chase and birds of prey, the forest
now became again — what it had been before its
possession by the Douglases — a favourite hunting-
ground of the Scottish kings. In 1528, James V.
" made proclamation to all lords, barons, gentlemen,
landward-men, and freeholders, that they should
compear at Edinburgh, with a month's victuals, to
pass with the King where he pleased, to danton the
thieves of Tiviotdale, Annandale, Liddisdale, and
other parts of that country; and also warned all
gentlemen that had good dogs to bring them, that
he might hunt in the said country as he pleased :
the whilk the Earl of Argyle, the Earl of Huntly,
the Earl of Athole, and so all the rest of the gentle-
men of the Highland, did, and brought their hounds
with them in like manner, to hunt with the King,
as he pleased. The second day of June the King
past out of Edinburgh to the hunting, with many
of the nobles and gentlemen of Scotland with him,
to the number of twelve thousand men ; and then
past to Meggitland, and hounded and hawked all the
country and bounds ; that is to say, Pappert-law,
St. Mary-laws, Carlavirick, Chapel, Ewindoores,
and Longhope. I heard say, he slew, in these
bounds, eighteen score of harts." [Pitscottie's
' History of Scotland,' folio edition, p. 143.] After
this stately hunting, James, who : made the rush-
bush keep the cow,' in order to increase his reve-
nues, poured into it 10,000 sheep, to figure there
under the tending of a thrifty keeper, instead of
10,000 bucks which scoured its woodlands during
the bounteous age of Edward I. ; and by this act,
he led the way to such a conversion of the entire
forest into sheep- pasture, as occasioned a rapid and
almost total destruction of the trees. The last
sovereign of Scotland who visited it for the sake of
the chase was the beautiful Mary. Excepting a
few straggling thorns, and some solitary birches, no
traces of 'Ettricke foreste fair' now remain, al-
though, wherever protected from the sheep, copses
soon arise without any planting.
ETTRICK PEN. See Ettrick.
EU (Loch). See Ewe (Loch).
EUCHAN WATER, a rivulet in the northern
part of Nithsdale, Dumfries-shire. It rises in Black
Larg-hill, on the boundary between Dumfries-shire
and Ayrshire; flows 3 miles north-eastward, and
then 5J eastward ; having its whole course in San-
quhar parish, amid mountain-scenery, and falling
into the Nith opposite the old castle of Sanquhar.
EUCHAR (The), a rivulet of the district of Lorn,
in Argyleshire. It issues from Loch Scammodale,
and flows about 2 miles westward, and about the
same distance northward, to the sea at Kilninver.
It has many tributaries and a large volume. Its
banks are finely wooded ; and its course, at a place
about a mile from the sea, is along a deep rocky
ravine, grandly picturesque.
EUR (The). See Findhorn (The).
EVAN, or Avon (The), a rivulet of Lanarkshire
and Dumfries-shire. It rises in the parish of Craw-
ford at Clydes-law, so near the source of what is
popularly reckoned the parent-stream of the Clyde,
as now to receive the waters of a rill which formerly
was a tributary of that noble river. It first flows
about 2 miles westward; then suddenly debouches,
and flows 3h miles south-eastward; and now as-
sumes a southerly direction, passing 1£ mile to the
boundary of the two counties, and there entering the
parish of Moffat, to intersect it over a distance of
2f miles. It now receives Cloffin burn, and enters
the parish of Kirkpatrick-Juxta, taking a direction
to the east of south on entering it ; and, after tra-
versing that parish over a distance of 44. miles, and
receiving in its progress the tribute of Garlpool
burn, it forms a confluence with the river Annan, at
the point where that river receives on its opposite
hank the tribute of Moffat water, 2 miles south of
the town of Moffat. Its entire course is about 1 4
miles; one half in Lanarkshire, and the other in
Dumfries-shire. The rivulet is chiefly remarkable
for its cutting a practicable transit through a high
and precipitous part of the Southern Highland
mountains, for the Glasgow and Carlisle turnpike
and for the Caledonian railway. Its upper course
is over rugged rocks, among hills and mountains
generally acclivitous, and, in some instances, nearly
perpendicular. As it rises, and for some distance
Hows, at an elevation nearly 1,000 feet above the
level of the sea, it has in many places the impetuous
motion of a torrent. In its lower course, as it ap-
proaches the Annan, it flows between two hilly
ridges, and has become comparatively tranquil.
EVANTOWN, a post-office village in the parish
of Kiltearn, Ross-shire. It stands 7 miles north-
north-east of Dingwall, on the road thence to Inver-
gordon. It originated only about 46 years ago, and
has a regular alignment and a neat appearance.
Its site wSs a piece of waste ground-; but the im-
mediately circumjacent scenery is very fine. Here
are a meeting-house with 400 sittings, and a school-
house. Fairs are held on the second Tuesday of
May, August, and November. Population, 462.
Houses, 80.
EVELAN. See Westruther.
EVELICK, an ancient estate, now divided, in
the parish of Kilspindie, Perthshire. Evelick-hill,
832 feet high, commands one of the most gorgeous
panoramic prospects in Scotland. On the summit
of the hill mo vestiges of an ancient fortification,
which seems to have comprised two concentric
stone walls and a fosse. A little to the south-east
of the hill are the ruins of Evelick-castle, the
ancient seat of the Lindsays, knights of Evelick, and
originally a place of strength.
EVELICKS (The). See Evljx.
EVERYMAN'S LAND. See Scone.
EVIE and KENDALL, an united parish, con-
taining the post-office station of Evie, in Orkney.
It comprehends the north-eastern part of the mam-
laud, and the contiguous island of Gairsay. Evie
is the northern section, and Rendall the southern;
and to the latter helongs Gairsay. The length of
the united parish, south-eastward, is ahout 10 miles ;
and its greatest breadth, exclusive of Gairsay, is 4J
miles. The coast is free from those deep indentations
which abound elsewhere in Orkney. The beach, ex-
cepting in one small bay of beautiful shell sand, is
rocky. The bay of Woodwick, nearly opposite Gair-
say, is of considerable size. Costa-head, at the north-
western extremity of Evie, is a bold promontory,
with precipitous face to the sea, and 'a high hill}'
contour to the interior. A range of hills, of mono-
tonous character, generally about 300 or 400 feet
high, clothed in moorish garb of moss or heath,
with admixture of coarse grass, occupies all the
western border and considerable part of the interior.
The arable land is all a gentle slope, from the skirts
of the hills to the shore, varying in breadth from §
a mile to 1J mile. The loch of Swana, about lj
mile in length, and emitting a stream strong enough
to drive a meal-mill at any time of the year, lies on
the boundary about 1J mile south of Costa-head.
There are three principal landowners, and seven
other considerable landowners. Fairs for cattle
and horses are held in Evie on the last Wed-
nesday of June and the last Friday of October.
Population of the united parish in 1831, 1,450; in
1861, 1,408. Houses, 313. Population of Evie in
1831, 839; in 1851, 857. Houses, 189.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkwall, and
synod of Orkney. Patron, the Earl of Zetland.
Stipend, £154 6s. lOd. ; glebe, £50. Schoolmaster's
salary, £30. The parish church is in Evie, within
a mile of the nearest part of Kendall, and -was built
about the end of last century. Sittings, 498. There
is a Free church ; and the sum raised in connexion
with it in 1854 was £97 16s. There is a Congrega-
tional chapel in Kendall, with an attendance of 150.
There are a Society's school, and four other non-
parochial schools. The date of the union of the
parishes is not known ; but it is supposed to have
been as early as the Reformation.
EVIGAN BAY, a bay on the -west side of Stron-
say in Orkney.
EVLIX, or Evelicks (The), a rivulet of the
south-east of Sutherlandshire. It rises about the
head of Strath-Achvaich, and runs about 13 miles,
principally south-eastward and partly southward,
to the Dornoch frith at a point not far from the
Meikle ferry. Its banks are beautifully wooded
with natural birches and alders; and its waters
abound with trout and salmon.
EVORT (Loch), an intricate sea-loch, forming a
safe harbour, on the east coast of North Uist, 3£
miles south of Loch-Maddy. See Uist (North).
EWE, a fertile, well-cultivated island, nearly 2
miles long, a little outward from the middle of Loch-
Ewe, in the parish of Gairloch, Ross-shire. Popula-
tion, 24.
EWE (Loch), an arm of the sea, 7 miles in length
and 3J in extreme breadth, penetrating the land
south-eastward, in the parish of Gairloch, on the west
coast of Ross-shire. Into the head of it, at Pool-
Ewe, abroad and rapid river called the Ewe, issuing
from Loch Maree, empties itself, after a course of
only a mile in length. This loch, and Loch Maree,
appear to have originally formed one loch, under the
name of Loch Ewe, as the village at the head of
Loch Maree is named Cean- Loch- Ewe, that is, ' the
Head of Loch Ewe.' See article Maree (Loch).
The river Ewe is praised by Sir Humphrey Davy
for its finely-stocked pools, from which, at certain
times, a couple of skilful anglers might load a horse
with grilse and sea-trout.
EWE (The). See Ewe (Loch).
EWES, a parish, containing a post-office station
of its own name, at the north-east extremity of
Dumfries-shire. It is bounded on the north and
east by Roxburghshire; on the south by Canonbie
and Langholm; and on the west by Westerkirk.
Its figure is a broad oval, with indentations on the
north-east and south. It is 8 miles in length from
north to south, and 5J miles in average breadth ;
and contains 34^ square miles. In some ancient
writings it is regarded as a separate and independent
district of Dumfries-shire. "Beyond the Tweed,"
says Boethius, " to the middle march under the
Cheviot hills, lieth Tevidale, that is to say, the vale
of Tiffe. Beyond it is Eskedale, or the vale of Eske,
of a river so called that runneth through the same.
Over against Eskedale, on the other side, lieth Eus-
dale, so named of the river Eus, that passeth there-
by, and falleth into the water of Annand." The
whole parish is a double basin, surrounded on three,
sides by mountains which form a water-line; and it
discharges all its aggregated waters, in the two
streams Ewes and Tarras, through openings on the
south. The Tan-as rises at Hartsgarth Fell, and
intersects the eastern division for 4J miles, and then,
for 1J mile, forms the boundary-line between it and
Langholm. The Ewes rises at Mosspaul, in the
extreme north. After a progress southward of 2J
miles, it receives on its left bank Blackball burn,
which had flowed 3J miles from Tudhope hill.
Passing onwards, it receives the waters of Unthank
burn, Mosspeeble burn, Muckledale burn, and numer-
ous tiny streams ; and after a course from its origin,
of windingly 9J miles, it enters the parish of Lang-
holm, and, ljr mile farther on, closes in, with the
river Esk and Wauchope water, to decorate the
brilliant scenery in which the town of Langholm
lies embosomed. Ewesdale, along the banks of this
stream, is one of the most beautiful districts in the
Southern Highlands. The hills on both sides are
mostly covered with verdure, and fringed with
thriving plantations, belted or spotted at intervals
with heath; and they exhibit many groupings and
phases of picturesque landscape. Haughs and
stripes of valley stretch along the margins of the
river, and luxuriate under culture. The New Sta-
tistical Account distributes the whole area into 200
acres of wood, 23,169 of pasture, and 1,100 of ara-
ble land. The chief proprietors are the Duke of
Buccleuch and three others. The parish is traversed,
in its whole length, down the vale of the Ewes, by
the road from Edinburgh to Carlisle. Population
in 1831, 335; in 1861, 356. Houses, 59. Assessed
property in_1843, £4,951 8s. 9d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Langholm,
and synod of Dumfries. Patron, the Duke of Buc-
cleuch. Stipend, £240 19s. 2d. ; glebe, £35. Un-
appropriated teinds, £637 Is. 4d. Schoolmaster's
salary, £34 4s. 4Jd., with £9 other emoluments.
The parish church was repaired in 1831, and con-
tains about 230 sittings. Before the Reformation
there were two churches and two chapels. The
principal church was dedicated to St. Cuthbert,
and stood on the west side of the Ewes, at a
EWES.
622
EYEMOUTH.
hamlet which was called Kirk-town of Nether
Ewes. The other church was situated in the
upper part of the vale, at a place now unin-
habited except by a solitary shepherd, and called
Ewes-duris, or the pass of Ewes, where a pass
leads into Teviotdale. Of the two chapels vesti-
ges still exist, respectively at Unthank and at
Mosspaul.
EWES (The), a rivulet of the parishes of Ewes
and Langholm, Dumfries-shire. See Ewes.
EWES (The), one of the head-streams of the
Luggate, and formerly the name of the Luggate it-
self, in the parish of Stow, Edinburghshire.
EWESDALE. See Ewes and Eskdale,
EWIESIDE-HILL. See Cockburnspath.
EYE (Loch), a small lake in the parish of Feam,
in Ross-shire, about 2 miles long, and half-a-mile
broad. From it proceeds the small river Eye,
forming in its course a succession of smaller lakes,
which are much frequented by aquatic fowls. It
falls into the Moray frith, near the fishing-village
of Balintore.
EYE (The), a small river in Berwickshire. It
rises among the Lammermoor hills in the parish of
Cockburnspath, pursues a south-eastward course
over a distance of 11 miles, and then making a sud-
den bend, flows 3J miles north-eastward to the sea
at Eyemouth. Over 2J miles it intersects Cock-
burnspath; over the next mile it divides a detached
portion of Oldhamstocks from Coldingham ; over 6
miles it traverses the latter parish ; over the next
1J mile it divides Coldingham from Ayton ; and it
now receives a small tributary from the west, and
makes its debouch to the north-east. Half-a-mile
from this point, it sweeps past the village of Ayton ;
1£ mile farther on it receives, from the west, the
considerable tribute of Ale water ; and it thence, to
its embouchure, divides Ayton on the east from
Eyemouth on the west. The river abounds in trouts,
of excellent quality, though small in size ; and as to
the appearance of its banks, is, in many parts, pleas-
ing and beautiful.
EYE (The), Ross-shire. See Eye (Loch).
EYEBROCHY, or Ibkis, a small island in the
frith of Forth, belonging to the parish of Dirleton,
Haddingtonshire.
EYEMOUTiI, a small parish, containing a post-
town of the same name, on the coast of Berwick-
shire. It is bounded on the north by the German
ocean ; on the east and south by Ayton; and on the
west by Coldingham. It may, in a general view, be
regarded as a square figure, 1J mile deep ; but it
has a rugged outline on the north and west, and
embosoms in its centre a small detached portion of
Coldingham parish. The boundary line on the south
is the Ale, and on the east is the Eye. Both streams,
while they touch the parish, are picturesque and or-
namental. The tide flows about half-a-mile up the
Eye. The coast rises, along the whole line, in
rocky and precipitous abruptness from the sea, to
89 or 90 feet above its level; and is sliced down at
intervals by deep fissures or gullies, and at one place
perforated by a cavern; but, except at two points
where roads have been scooped down its openings,
and at Eyemouth, where its gigantic breastwork is
interrupted by the Eye, it admits no access to the
beach. So far back as sixty years ago, not a foot
of bad or waste ground was in the parish. The soil,
in general, is excellent, and throws up prime crops
of every sort of grain. The only landowner, except
of some small parts, is Home of Wedderburn. The
yearly value of raw land produce was estimated in
1835 at £6,839. Assessed property in 1843, £2,683
9s. 2d. Upon a bold small promontory called the Fort,
north of the town, are the remains of a regular forti-
fication, erected by the Duke of Somerset in his
invasion of Scotland, while he held the regency of
England under the minority of Edward VI. Though
all the rocks along the coast are of the common hard
whinstone, the promontory of the Fort consists ot
puddingstone remarkably hard, capable of a polish
like marble, and offering strong resistance to the
action of fire. This fortification, soon after its erec-
tion, was, in the reign of Mary, demolished in terms
of a treaty between France and England which
followed the battle of Pinkie. A few years after-
wards it was reconstructed under Regent Moray to
aid a contemplated interference of Scotland in the
war which was going on between France and Eng-
land; but, at the subsequent peace, it was again de-
molished ; and, the crowns becoming united in the
next reign, it was allowed thenceforth to continue
in ruin. Grassy mounds, indicating the lines of
demolished wall, are almost the only traces of its
existence ; but they sufficiently show it to have
been a place of considerable strength and import-
ance. The old manor-house of Linthill, overlooking
the confluence of the Ale and the Eye, is the only
noticeable mansion; and in 1752 was the scene of
the murder of the widow of Patrick Home, its pro-
prietor. The great Duke of Marlborough received
from Eyemouth, though he had no connexion with
it, the title of Baron in the Scottish peerage. The
parish, though not touched by the North British
railway, has short easy access to both the Ayton
and the Burnmouth stations. Population in 1831,
1,181; in 1861, 1,804. Houses, 190.
This parish is in the presbytery of Chirnside, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £130 19s. 6d., exclusive of vicarage teinds
not valued; glebe, £48. Schoolmaster's salary, £72,
with £30 fees. Attached to the parish school is an
endowed female one; and there are two other schools.
The parish church, situated in the town, was built
in 1812, and contains about 550 sittings. There is
a Free church with an attendance of 270; and the
sum raised in connexion with it in 1854 was £308
18s. 7d. There is an United Presbyterian church,
which was built in 1842, and contains 500 sittings.
Eyemouth parish was formerly included in the ter-
ritory of Coldingham priory, and did not assume a
parochial form earlier than the reign of James VI.
A chapel connected with Coldingham, and served
by a nominee of the prior, anciently stood within its
limits.
EYEMOUTH, an ancient sea-port, and a burgh-of-
barony, lies at the mouth of the Eye, in the north-
east angle of Eyemouth parish, 2J miles north-east
of Ayton, 3 south-east of Coldingham, and 8J north-
west by north of Berwick. Its plan is altogether
irregular, and, considering its size, is not a little
intricate. " The whole town," says Chambers, in
his ' Picture of Scotland,' " has a dark, cunning look,
is full of curious alleys, blind and otherwise ; and
there is not a single individual house of any stand-
ing but what seems as if it could unfold its tales of
wonder." But he alludes, in this summary picture,
to the character which it once wore as a nest of
smugglers, and looks upon it through the thick
screen which contraband traders hang around their
scene of action. The town, though not elegant,
contains many good houses, possesses a neat spire
towering up from its church, and is supplied with
water by iron pipes kept in a state of cleanness and
repair. Coal fuel is cheap and plentiful, being easily
procured by land-carriage from Berwick, or sea-
communication from the Forth and the Tyne. A
large building, formerly occupied as a barrack, and
several modern and spacious erections, are used as
granaries, and indicate the existence of important
EYEMOUTH.
623
EYEMOUTH.
traffic with the surrounding agricultural country.
The bay and the harbour, too, are objects of un-
usual interest. The bay, though only £ of a mile
in breadth, and on the north or more extended side
little more in length, is both beautiful in landscape,
and highly adapted to utility. On one side it is
overhung by the high promontory of the Fort, and
on the other is overlooked by the projection of Guns-
green. From point to point it sweeps gracefully
round in a semicircle, washing the town at its ex-
tremity, and receiving the waters of the Eye con-
siderably south-eastward of the centre of its outline;
and in front it is protected by a singular ridge of
rocks called the Barkers or Hurcers, past either end
of which vessels sail inward to the harbour. Its
eneincturing coast-line everywhere, but especially
on the Fort, commands a magnificent and most ex-
tensive sea-view ; and its bed slopes, in most places,
so gently from the beach, and is so finely sheeted
with a gravelly bottom, as to allure to its waters
many a summer bather. An old rhyme says curi-
ously respecting the prospect: —
"I stood upon Eyemouth fort,
And guess ye what I saw?
Faimieside and Flemington,
Newhouses and Cocklaw.
The fairy folk o' Fosterland,
The witches o' Edincraw,
The rye-rigs o' Reston,
And Dunse dings a'."
Eyemouth is the market for a somewhat extensive
district, and the only sea- port in Berwickshire.
Yet territorial limitation, or the drawing of an ar-
tificial line over the corner of a district geograpically
unique, does not prevent the population of the county
from viewing Berwick as still, what it anciently
was, their principal port and their county town.
Eyemouth, in consequence, is, both as a market and
a port, but a gleaner of straws in the vicinity of a
reaper of sheaves. It has likewise suffered severe
damage to its trade from the opening of the North
British railway. For a long series of years it was
the depot and the shipping-place of a large quantit3'
of exported grain. Half-a-century ago 20,000 bolls
annually, and in some years more than 40,000 bolls,
were shipped here for Leith and other places; and in
the years following 1832, grain to the value of £20,000
was yearly sold in its market. But now scarcely any
grain is shipped here; and the weekly market has
ceased to be held. The contraband trade, which
once characterized it to such a degree, that every
house is said to have had its secret cellars for the
concealment of goods, and which has winged and
poisoned many an envenomed shaft of satire against
the modern population, has long since entirely dis-
appeared. The latest dealers in it had all died or
removed to distant places several years before the
writer in the Statistical Account of 1792 drew up
his report; and both they and their predecessors
had all, according to his statement, sunk into
poverty, bankruptcy, or at best the possession of a
mere competence. The herring-fishery trade suc-
ceeded the contraband one, and has been remarkably
fitful. " This," said the New Statistical Account in
1835, "has at various periods been very productive;
from 1809 to 1820, not less than 10,000 barrels being
brought into Eyemouth yearly. Upon these occa-
sions, from 100 to 150 boats assembled at Eyemouth,
and few sights more gratifying could be witnessed
than that of the little fleet setting sail on a fine
summer evening to take up their stations on the
fishing-ground, or returning at break of day loaded
with the treasures of the deep. Since 1820, this
fishing has been on the decline; and for some years
past even the boats belonging to Eyemouth have
not remained on this coast, but proceeded to Sun-
derland, Wick, &C, to prosecute the fishing." Of
late years, however, the local fishery has not only
re-acquired its former importance, but far exceeded
it; insomuch, that in the year 1853, the number of
pei sons employed in it was 2,643, the value of boats,
nets, and lines engaged in it, was £28,670, the
quantity of herrings caught and cured was 52,299
barrels, and the quantity caught but not cured was
45,980 barrels. This trade, indeed, belongs to a
district of 30 miles in extent along the coast, and
has Eyemouth only as its head-quarters; yet, pro-
bably not much less than one-half of it is strictly
proper to the town, and its near vicinity, belonging
in every sense to the local population; for of a total
of 166 boats engaged in it in a recent year, 48 be-
longed strictly to Eyemouth, and 29 to the imme-
diately adjacent creeks of Boss and Burnmouth.
A fishery of cod and haddock is also considerable
and of long standing. There are at present 26
large boats regularly employed in it, each of which
has a crew of 6 or 7 men, and earns to the value of
from £300 to £400 a-year.
Eyemouth harbour, when viewed at high water
from the contiguous heights, appears to possess a
sufficiency of both capacity and shelter to be available
as a harbour of refuge for the perilous stretch of
coast between the Bass and Holy Island. But on
being specially surveyed under the direction of the
Admiralty in 1839, it was found, even if pro-
vided with an artificial breakwater, to be incapable
of offering a sheltered anchorage to more than a
dozen laden vessels. Nor is it even very well ap-
pointed for its own local trade. " The mouth of the
river," says a recent official report upon it, " is pro-
tected from the heavy run of the sea by a stone pier
(one of Smeaton's earliest designs), carried out
from the eastern shore in 1768, and by a short pier
on the west side, with an entrance between 154 feet
in width, having 14 feet depth at high-water spring
tides. A quay wall, rebuilt in 1843, along the mid-
dle of the river, forms an inner basin, and gives
great shelter to vessels lying at the quays against
the river freshes, which occasionally bring down
large quantities of gravel, and do much damage to
the harbour. But it appears that the old pier and
the river wall along the ballast quay, are out of
repair ; that there is no crane on the quays, nor any
warping buoy off the harbour's mouth ; that the bed
of the river requires to be deepened, and the rocky
shares to be removed; that there is no beaehing-
place in the harbour to run a vessel on in case of
need; no light at the pier-head, nor any beacon on
the Inner Bass, a dangerous rock which lies in the
fair way of the entrance to the bay." The flow of
the tide here, as generally in other harbours on the
east coast, averages 10 feet at neap-tides, and 16 feet
at spring-tides. The number of arrivals and de-
partures of vessels — not including any which run
into the hay simply for shelter — was for a long time
about 200 in the year ; but it recently rose to 305,
of an aggregate burden of 13,067 tons,— 30 of which
were vessels from foreign ports. The cargoes out-
wards are miscellaneous produce, principally fish;
and those inwards are coals, slates, tiles, bricks,
timber, rags, bones, and merchant goods. The
yearly revenue levied is about £314. Eyemouth,
together with the creeks belonging to it, was for-
merly an annexation of the port of Leith, but was trans -
ferred in 1848 to the port of Berwick.
Eyemouth acquired early consequence as a de-
pendency of the monks of Coldingham, and as the
only port within their limits. So early as the reign
of William the Lion, or between the years 1174
and 1214, it is mentioned in a charter among the re-
EYEMOUTH.
62-4
FAIL.
cords of the priory. In the 14th century, the har-
bour had sufficiently become a place of resort as to
incite, on the part of the lord of the manor, a demand
for anchorage dues. In 1597, by a charter from
James VI., in favour of Sir George Home of Wed-
derbum, it was erected into a free burgh-of-barony,
with the privilege of a free port. A little before the
accession of James VI. to the throne of England,
Logan, the Laird of Restalrig, had a house or castle
in the town; and dated from it one of his well-
known letters relative to Gowrie's conspiracy. A
notorious inhabitant, at the same epoch, was the
famous or infamous Sprott, the professional agent of
Logan, and a notary or writer of the town, who,
coining under suspicion of being in the secret of
Gowrie's conspiracy, was, in 1608, apprehended,
tried, and executed. See Fast Castle. The Pro-
tector Cromwell, in his progress into Scotland,
visited Eyemouth with the view of examining its
capabilities as a harbour; and soon after ordered,
as a means of defending the entrance to the Eye,
the construction of a place of strength, on the site
of the ruined fortification on the promontory called
the Fort, and appointed the place to be under the
authority of the governor of Berwick. — By the
charter of barony, the inhabitants and free burgesses
were empowered, with the consent of Sir George
Home and his heirs, to make an annual election of
magistrates, — to buy and sell and exercise every art
and trade as in other free burghs, — to hold a weekly
market and two annual fairs, — and to build a gaol,
hold courts, and appoint clerks and officers; but, as
regards everything municipal or jurisdictional, they
seem never to have exercised the privileges con-
ferred, but to have yielded themselves unreservedly
to the will of their superior. The Homes of Wed-
derburn have been in the practice of appointing and
paying a baron bailie and baron officer for the govern-
ment of the town. Occasionally, during the last cen-
tury, and even within these few years, the bailie has
held a court for the determination of petty causes;
but, in general, he has no scope within the small
community of his jurisdiction for acting as a judicial
functionary. The town formerly paid £10, and
now pays £5 a-year, in name of cess, to the conven-
tion of royal burghs, for participating in the privi-
lege of foreign trade. The town has a branch-office
of the Commercial Bank of Scotland, a parochial
library, a friendly society, a reading club establish-
ed in 1847, a total abstinence society, and a free
mason lodge. The poet Burns received masonic
initiation here to the St. Abb's lodge. Fairs are
held on the first Thursday of June and the last
Thursday of October. The population of the town
comprises all the population of the parish excepting
about 80.
EYLT (Loch), or Ailt, a small lake, about 3
miles in length by half-a mile in greatest breadth,
in the district of Moydart, Inverness-shire. Its
superfluent waters flow into the head of Loch
Aylort, by a stream of about 1J mile in length,
which sweeps around the northern base of Benebeg.
EYNORT (Loch), a very irregular arm of the
sea, 3 miles in length, indenting the east coast of
the island of South Uist, and nearly meeting the
head-arms of Loch Bee from the opposite side of
the island. The scenery of Loch Eynort is remark-
ably wild and picturesque ; and only wants trees
or a clothing of copse-wood to be, in many places,
enchantingly beautiful.
F
FAD .Isle). See Inch-Fad.
FAD (Loch), a lake, 2 miles south-west of Rothe-
say in the island of Bute. Itextends in astripe south-
westward, on the mutual boundary of the parishes
of Rothesay and Kingarth, and covers about 400
acres. From the rude, rocky, and picturesque ap-
pearance of the hills which surround it, it presents
quite a miniature picture of some of the larger High-
land lakes. The slopes of a few of these hills are
cultivated ; but the greater proportion, especially
towards the head of the loch, are in a state of na-
ture. Though not remarkable for height, their out-
line is in general broken, varied, and interesting;
and the serrated summits of the Arran mountains
on the one hand, or the hills of Cowal on the other,
afford fine terminations to the view. Loch-Fad
forms a pleasant excursion for tourists or sea-bathing
visitors at Rothesay ; and since the period that
Kean made it a place of repose during the intervals
from his professional exertions, it has been much
more visited than it had ever previously been. The
bouse erected by Mr. Kean, though of sufficient size,
is a very ordinary looking one, and generally disap-
points the visitors. Had it been somewhat more in
the cottage-style, it would have better pleased the
eye. and been more in accordance with the situation, |
which is indeed well-chosen . The grounds are veiv
agreeably laid out, and form a singular contrast with
the rudeness and romantic nature of the surrounding
scenery.
FAD (Loch), Argjdeshire. See Colonsay.
FADA (Isle). See Ellan-Fada.
FAIFLEY, a manufacturing village in the vicinity
of Duntocher, in the parish of Old Kilpatrick, Dum-
bartonshire. See Duntocher. Population, 321.
FAIL, the site of an ancient monastery of Red
or Trinity friars, in the Barnwell section of the
parish of Tarbolton, Ayrshire. The monastery was
founded in 1252, and stood on a rivulet of its own
name, which flows about 5 miles southward and
south-eastward, from the skirts of Craigie, and
through Tarbolton, to the water of Ayr. A ford
across the rivulet at the place was called Failford,
— a name now given to a locality near the rivulet's
embouchure ; and a lake in the vicinity was called
Loeh-fail. Spottiswoode, misled by this clustering
of cognate names round one locality, exhibits in his
catalogue of religious houses, three several estab-
lishments under the designations respectively of Fail,
Failford, and Loch-fail, the first of which he makes
a cell of Cluniac monks belonging to the abbey of
Paisley, and the second and the third convents of
FAIR-ISLE.
G25
FALA.
Red friars. The three supposed establishments, how-
ever, were in reality only one. The chief of this
convent bore the designation of " minister." He
was provincial or head of the Trinity order in Scot-
land, and, in that capacity, had a seat in parliament.
The convent possessed 5 parish churches, Barnwell,
Galston, and Symington in Kyle, Torthorwald in
Annandale, and Inverchaolin in Cowal. In 1562,
Robert Cunningham, the minister, gave up as the
rental £174 6s. 8d. in money, 15 chalders of meal, 3
shalders of bere, 30 stones of cheese, 10 young sheep,
3 bullocks, and 24 salmon. William Wallace, who
was minister during the reign of James VI., died in
1617, and his son William seems to have considered
the monastery, and what remained of its property,
as his inheritance. In October 1690, William, Earl
of Dundonald, was served heir of his father in the
benefice of Fail or Failford temporaliter et spirit-
ualiter. The ruins of the convent still exist 1 J mile
north-north-west of the village of Tarbolton. An
old satirical poem says of the Friars of Fail, that
" they never wanted gear enough as long as their
neighbour's lasted;" and another says: —
"The friars of Fail drank berry-brown ale,
The best that ever was tasted ;
The monks of Melrose made gnde kail,
On Fridays, when they fasted."
FAILFORD. See Fail.
FAIRAY. See Pharay.
FAIRBHEIN. See Durxess.
FAIR-ISLE, an island belonging to the parish of
Dunrossness in Shetland, but lying nearly midway
between Shetland and Orkney, 29 miles south by
west of Sumburgh-head. It is upwards of 3 miles
in length, and nearly 2 in breadth ; and rises into
three lofty promontories. It is everywhere inac-
cessible, save at one point upon the north-east,
where it affords a safe station for small vessels.
One of the promontories, the Sheep-craig, is nearly
insulated, rising from the ocean in a conical shape
to the height of 480 feet. The soil is tolerably fer-
tile, and the sheep-pasture on the hills excellent.
The inhabitants all live on the south side of the is-
land, and employ themselves much in fishing. The
minister of Dunrossness, when health and weather
permit, visits them once a-year, and remains witli
them two Sabbaths. There is a schoolmaster on
the island, under the Society for propagating Chris-
tian knowledge. The Duke of Medina Sidonia, the
admiral of the celebrated Spanish armada, when re-
treating northward in the year 15SS, pursued by the
English squadron, was shipwrecked on Fair-Isle.
The greater part of his crew, after enduring severe
hardships, were murdered by the semi-barbarous
natives, with the view of preventing a famine ; but
the Duke himself, along with a small number of
them, was allowed to escape in a little vessel to the
mainland of Shetland, whence he obtained a passage
to the continent of Europe. Population of the is-
land in 1831, 317 ; in 1861, 380. Houses, 53.
FAIRLEY, a post-office village in the parish of
Largs, Ayrshire. It is beautifully situated on the
coast, opposite the larger Cumbrae, 2 miles south of
the town of Largs. The coast, on both sides of it, is
for a short way studded with neat villas. Opposite
to it is a good roadstead, sheltered by the Cumbraes,
and affording safe anchorage. Fairley castle, an
old square tower, formerly the seat of a family of
the name of Fairley, stands in the vicinity of the
village. An ancient barony, connected with that
town, belonged for 400 years to the Fairley family,
but was sold in the beginning of the 18th century
to the Earl of Glasgow. A small island formerly
lay in front of the site of the village, but has been
obliterated by the receding of the water. The rvhole
sound between the mainland and the larger Cum-
brae bears the name of Faiiiey roads ; and a rivulet
which runs on the boundary between Largs parish
and West Kilbride parish is called Faiiiey burn.
A chapel-of-ease was built in 1833. It contains
300 sittings; and is in the presentation of the
managers and communicants. Here also is an
elegant Free church: attendance, 150; sum raised
in 1854, £270 2s. 3Jd. Population of the village,
together with some circumjacent territory classed
temporarily with it before 1843. as a quoad sacra
parish, 521. Houses, 93.
FAIRLEY BURN. See Fairley.
FAIRLEY HEAD, a headland in the parish of
West Kilbride, at the north side of the entrance of
the bay of Ayr, and 5 miles 'south by west of the
village of Faiiiey, Ayrshire.
FAIRY-BRIDGE. See Duirinish.
FALA, a parish, adjoining the post-ofHce hamlet
of Blackshiels, and containing the village of Fala,
and part of Fala-dam, on the south-east verge of
Edinburghshire. It is united to the parish of Sou-
tra, on the south-west verge of Haddingtonshire,
the two together bearing the name of Fala and Sou-
tra. Each parisb is a stripe of territory stretching
from north to south ; and the two jointly form a
parallelogram, 4 miles long and three broad. One-
half of Fala, and one-third of Soutra, constituting
the northern division of the united parish, are a
slightly undulating but on the whole level tract of
country, well-cultivated and fertile, composed of a
clayey soil, and producing all the variety of crops
common in the Lothians. The rest of the district,
commencing on the north with Soutra hill, which
rises about 1,230 feet above the level of the sea, is
part of the most westerly ridge of the Lammermoor
mountains, covered for the most part with heath,
and, excepting a few cultivated spots, all laid out in
sheep-pasturage. To a traveller from the south,
who has, over a considerable distance, traversed a
dreary moorland carpeted with heath, Soutra hill
suddenly discloses the finely cultivated and beauti-
ful expanse of the Lothians, variegated with hill
and dale, woods and waters, and richly foiled on the
back-ground with the gay estuary of the Forth and
the brilliant scenery of the coast of Fife; and a
panorama is thus hung out to the view which as
much enchants by its attractions, as it astonishes by
the suddenness of its revelation. On the south-east
of Fala are marshy grounds, extending to some
hundreds of acres, called Fala-Flow, from part of
which peats are dug for fuel. On the north side of
Soutra hill is a fountain of excellent water, called
Trinity well, which, though not now appearing to
possess any medicinal qualities, was formerly in
great repute and much frequented among invalids.
The Earl of Stair is the sole proprietor of Fala ; and
there are five principal proprietors of Soutra. The
real rental of the united parish is about £3,000.
Assessed property of Fala in 1843, £1,583 ; of Sou-
tra, £1,297 10s. The Hawick branch of the North
British railway has two stations within a short dis-
tance of the western extremity of Fala. The road
from Edinburgh to Lauder intersects the united
parish south-eastward through its northern division ;
and sends off several cross-roads to the north, and
one to the south, which runs along the eastern verga
of Soutra, to form a junction with the road down
Gala water in the parish of Stow. On the Edin-
burgh and Lauder road stands the village of Fala,
15i miles from Edinburgh, the seat of the parish
church and of an United Presbyterian meeting-
house, with their respective manses. The church
and part of the village are situated on a small coni-
cal hill of the class called " laws ; " and hence the
2 E
FALA.
626
FALKIKK.
name Fallaw, abbreviated into Fala, and signifying
' the speckled hill.' Population of the united par-
ish in 1831, 437 ; in 1861, 3S2. Houses, 77. Po-
pulation of Fala proper in 1831, 312 ; in 1861, 249.
Houses, 52.
The united parish of Fala and Soutra is in the
presbytery of Dalkeith, and synod of Lothian and
Tweeddale. Patrons, the Earl of Stair and George
Grant, Esq. Stipend, £169 6s. lOd. ; glebe, £25 10s.,
with pasturage for 20 sheep. Unappropriated teinds,
£76 6s. 8d. Schoolmaster's salary, £34 4s. 4Jd., with
£25 school-fees. The parish church is an old and
very plain building, with 250 sittings. The United
Presbyterian church has an attendance of about 365.
Fala parish was united to Soutra about the year
1600, its church becoming the place of worship for
both parishes. On the summit of Soutra hill for-
merly stood the church and village of Soutra, appro-
priately and graphically designated by that name,
which signifies, in the Cambro-British, ' the hamlet
with a prospect.' This village was anciently a
place of consideration and resort, and a scene of the
stirring ostentatious charity of the Middle ages.
Malcolm IV. founded here, in 1164, an hospital for
the relief of pilgrims, and the shelter and support of
the poor and the afflicted ; and he endowed the in-
stitution with some lands near St. Leonard's in the
vicinity of Edinburgh, and conferred upon it the
privileges of a sanctuary. The masters and brothers
of the hospital were owners of the property and ap-
purtenances of the church. A causeway leading
from the vale of the Tweed to Soutra, and still com-
memorated in various traces among the sinuosities
of the mountains, bore the significant name of Girth-
gate, meaning the asylum or sanctuary-road, and
affords proof that the refuge of Soutra was potent
and famous. A small rising ground about half-a-
mile south of the site of the hospital, is still called
Cross-chain-hill, and would appear to have had a
chain suspended for a considerable way along its
summit to mark the limits of the privileged ground.
When Mary of Gueldres founded the Trinity-college
church of Edinburgh, she pervertedly bestowed up-
on it the endowments of Soutra hospital, and con-
verted its dependent church into a vicarage. The
Town-council of Edinburgh, getting possession in
1560-1 of Trinity church and its pertinents, became
in consequence proprietors of the ecclesiastical ap-
purtenances of Soutra, and the patrons of its church.
By the seizure of its charity revenues, the ruin of
its hospital, and the reduction, and afterwards the
abandonment of its church, the village of Soutra
was suddenly stripped of its importance, and brought
to desolation. The seat of conviviality and busy
though doubtful charity, of many public-houses, of
a great hospital and of a general refuge for the dis-
tressed debtor, the weary traveller, the friendless
pauper, and the afflicted invalid, is now silent and
wild, and utterly abandoned to the lonely visits of
the mountain sheep. Some hardly perceptible tu-
muli, overgrown with herbage, faintly indicate the
site of prostrate dwellings. Slight irregularities of
surface, with not a tomb-stone or the small tumulus
of a grave, dimly mark the limits of a cemetery. A
single aisle of the chapel, rising amidst a dreary
sward of heath, and conservated from the common
trackless ruin by its enclosing the burial-place of
the Maitland of Pogbie family, is the sole memorial
of Soutra, and the only monitor on this once-stir-
ring and famous area of the instability and utter
vanity of the institutions and erections of mortal
man. The town of the pleasant prospect, Soutra,
which once looked joyously down upon the gay and
far-spreading landscape of the Lothians and the
Forth, has utterly disappeared.
"Sweet smiling village, loveliest of the lawn,
Thy sports are fled, and all thy charms withdrawn;
Sunk are thy bowers in shapeless ruin all,
And the long grass o'ertops the mouldering wall."
FALA-DAM, a village in the parishes of Fala
and Crichtou, Edinburghshire. It stands on Cake-
moor water, and on the road from Edinburgh to
Lauder, § of a mile north-west of the village- of
Fala, and 14J miles south-east of Edinburgh. Po-
pulation of the entire village, 64 ; of the Fala sec-
tion, 27. Houses in the whole, 22 ; in the Fala
section, 11.
FALA-HALL, an extinct ancient baronial tower,
whose site is now occupied by a farmery, about J a
mile north of the village of Fala, on the south-
eastern verge of Edinburghshire. Nisbet designates
it "an ancient monument of arms," and makes
reference to it upwards of twenty times, in the first
volume of his Heraldry, in illustration of the
armorial ensigns of as many barons — " illuminated,"
he says, "in the house of Fala-hall."
FALA-HILL, a hamlet in the north-east corner
of the parish of Heriot, 6 miles south of Ford,
Edinburghshire.
FALBEY (Loch), a small lake in the parish of
Parton, Kirkcudbrightshire.
FALFEARNIE BURN, one of the head-streams
of the South Esk, in the parish of Cortachie, Forfar-
shire.
FALKIKK, a parish in the eastern part of Stir-
lingshire. It contains the towns of Falkirk and
Grangemouth, the suburban villages of Brainsford
and Grahamstown, the post-office villages of Came-
lon and Laurieston, and the villages of Bonny-
bridge, Glen, and Barleyside. It is bounded on the
north by Dunipace, Larbert, and Bothkennar ; on
the east by Polmont and Muiravonside ; on the
south by Slamannan and Lanarkshire ; and on the
west by Dumbartonshire and Denny. In figure, it
is nearly an oval, stretching north-east and south-
west, but has a small flattened oval attached to its
south-east side. Its greatest length is 8J miles ; its
greatest breadth is 5§ miles; and its average breadth
is none or little more than 3 miles. Nearly all its
boundaries are traced by streams. A head-stream
of Bonny water rises at Sauchierigg, on the southern
boundary of the south-west end of the great oval of
the parish, and bends away westward, northward,
and north-eastward, receiving from without two
streams which combine with it to form the Bonny,
and everywhere over a distance of 5f miles, tracing
the boundary till within a mile of the Carroll, when
it runs across a small wing to make a confluence
with that river. Carron water touches the boun-
dary 5 furlongs north-west of where the Bonny
makes its detour inward ; and thence, over a geo-
graphical distance of 6 miles, traces, in general, the
boundary on the north ; but, in the lower part of
this course, it becomes somewhat sinuous, and being
rivalled in sinuosity by the caprieiousness of the
boundary-line, it intersects three tiny wings, and
makes three brief recessions, all within If mile of
Grangemouth. West Quarter burn rises at the line
of attachment between the large oval of the parish
and the small flattened oval, runs to the limit of the
former, and flowing north-eastward and northward,
traces the boundary over a distance of six miles, and
then near Grangemouth falls into the Carron. Avon
water rises 3 furlongs south of the source of West
Quarter burn, flows 2J miles westward through the
parish, and thence runs south-westward, south-
eastward, and eastward, tracing, over a distance of
7j miles, the boundary with Dumbartonshire,
Lanarkshire, and Slamannan. Four rills rise in the
parish, three of which run northward to the Bonny
FALKIRK.
627
FALKIRK.
or the Cavron, and one eastward to West Quarter
bum. Three small lakes lie in the upper part of
the parish ; but they possess little interest. The
parish, at its north-east end, approaches within J of
a mile of the Forth ; and from its boundary in that
direction, till near the town of Falkirk, as well as
farther inland along the banks of the Can-on, it is a
sheet of perfectly level and exceedingly rich land.
But fame has completely anticipated any modern
topographical writer in proclaiming through Scot-
land the opulence and the peerless agricultural
beauty of " the carse of Falkirk." Behind the carse,
the surface slowly rises, and becoming quite changed
in the character of its soil, belongs, for the most
part, to the class of dryfield. Though it is here
materially less fertile, and presents a different
picture to the eye, yet it possesses, in the undula-
tions and softly hilly risings of its surface, and in
its fine enclosures and thriving woods, its villas and
burgh and villages, not a few features of interest,
which challenge and fix the attention of a tourist.
But in the small oval of the parish, or the tract
which marches with Slamannan, the whole surface
was originally a dismal bog ; and even with the aids
and results of georgical operation, still retains a
strong dash of its pristine appearance. Yet nowhere
than in this parish as a whole has agricultural skill
been more vigorously plied or more successful in
improvements. Almost every useful novelty in the
art of husbandry which appears in other districts, is
copied or adopted; and the farmers are conspicuous
for the enterprising spirit which has won fame to
Stirlingshire as an agricultural county. About one-
eighth of the entire area is under wood ; somewhat
more than one-seventh is either waste or in pasture ;
and all the rest is either regularly or occasionally
under the plough. Coal of excellent quality is so
abundant as to be largely exported. Ironstone,
limestone, and sandstone occur in the same districts
as the coal. Silver, copper, cobalt, and lead, have
been found, but not in considerable quantity. The
principal landowners are Forbes of Callendar, the
Earl of Zetland, Sir Thomas Livingstone, Bart., and
sixteen others. The value of assessed property in
1843 was £28,747 14s. 2d.
Some of the more elevated parts of the parish —
including not only eminences, but such stretches of
territory as permit a tourist or traveller to move
along and possess a continuous enjoyment of the
intellectual treat — are hung round by a panorama of
no common beauty. The view from the manse and
churchyard of Falkirk, is noticed by Sir Walter Scott,
as one of the finest in Scotland. From this point,
or from other places northward and north- westward
of the town, a luxuriant country, 12 or 14 miles
square, spreads out before the eye, almost luscious in
the beauties of its vegetation, dotted with mansions
and rural spires, chequered by the masts and rigg-
ing of ships passing along the canal or harboured at
Grangemouth, intersected by the opening estuary of
the frith of Forth, bearing along its sail-clad ships
or its smoking steamers, and shut in by the fine out-
line of the Ochil hills, over whose summits look up
in the far distance the cloud-wreathed or snow-
capped tops of some Highland mountains. When
this prospect is mantled in the darkness of night,
crimson and lurid flashes bursting fitfully up from
the Carron iron-works, give it an aspect like that of
beauty conflicting with death, and, when refracted
by a thick moist atmosphere, or borne down by a
pressure of clouds, assume by turns a majestic or a
sublime and awful appearance. A hill on the
grounds of Mr Forbes of Callendar, a little to the
south-east of Falkirk, commands a prospect scarcely
inferior in beauty, and considerably greater in ex-
tent, and one which Bruce, the traveller to the sources
of the Nile, declared to be finer than any which he
had seen in the whole course of his wanderings.
Callendar, besides being the largest estate, is other-
wise remarkable ; so that we have separately noticed
it. See Callendar. Kerse-house, the seat of the
Earl of Zetland, is an Elizabethan pile, of various
dates, situated in a finely wooded park, in the
eastern part of the carse. Bantaskine house, the
seat of Mr Hagart, is an elegant modern edifice,
situated amid beautiful grounds, on an eminence \
a mile south-west of .the burgh. There are in the
neighbourhood of the burgh four nurseries and four
tan-works; at Grakamstown, two works for the
manufacture of pyroligneous acid ; at Bonnymoor
and Camelon, three distilleries; on the canal, a ship-
building yard and a saw-mill; and in various parts
of the parish, six corn-mills, two saw-mills, four
breweries, four wood-yards, three brick and tile-
works, and eight or nine quarries. The Carron
iron-works, though not in the parish, stand close on
its boundary, not 2 miles distant from the town, and
have an intimate connexion with both its population
and its interior trade. See Carron. The Forth
and Clyde canal commences at the north-east limit
of the parish at Grangemouth ; runs sotith-westward
past Grahamstown and Camelon ; is earned over the
Glasgow and Edinburgh north road, at the latter
place, by a short and low arched aqueduct; now
bends westward till it nearly touches Bonny Water,
the boundary-line of the parish, at Bonny mill ; and
thence runs south-westward along the bank of
Bonny water, till it enters Dumbartonshire at Wood-
neuk ; thus intersecting the parish at its greatest
length, and describing a course through it of 9
miles. About 4J miles from its commencement, at
a point where it has been raised by sixteen locks
from the level of the sea, it sends off, on its south
side, the Edinburgh Union canal. The latter, im-
mediately on retiring, describes the arc of a circle,
and over that arc is lifted up by a rapid series of
locks, which have a shelving appearance, along the
face of the gentle and curved acclivity ; it then runs
a mile eastward, penetrates the body of a hill, and
passes through it in a tunnel upwards of half-a-mile
in length; and after a further course of \\ mile, first
south-eastward, and next eastward, passes away
into Polmont. See articles Forth asd Clyde
Canal, and Ukion Canal. The Edinburgh and
Glasgow railway traverses the parish through an
extent of 7 miles, great part of it in a course entirely
parallel with that of the Union canal, having a
tunnel of 880 yards in length, afterwards command-
ing a gorgeous view of the basin of the Forth, and
spanning the locks of the Union canal on a remark-
ably fine viaduct. The junction railway, from the
Edinburgh and Glasgow at Polmont to the Scottish
Central at Larbert, also traverses the parish, and
has a station in it at Grahamstown. The north
road from Edinburgh to Glasgow traverses the parish
nearly due westward, through Laurieston, Falkirk,
and Camelon. At the last of these places, the road
to Stirling branches off, but runs along only 1J mile
before passing into Larbert. Other roads are so
numerous and intricately ramified that to trace
them would be insufferably tedious. Population of
the parish in 1831, 12, 743;'in 1861, 17,026. Houses,
2,160.
In the barony of Seabegs, in this parish, are
several of those artificial earthen mounds, called
moats, which occur in so many localities in Scot-
land, and were anciently the seats of justiciary
courts and deliberative assemblies. In various
places, urns filled with ashes, and stone coffins con-
taining human bones, have been dug up ; and in the
FALKIRK.
628
FALKIRK.
hollow of a freestone quarry near Castleoary, some
wheat was found 85 years ago, which had become
black, and was supposed to have lain concealed from
the period of the Eoman possession. In several parts
of the parish are traces of Antoninus' Wall : which
see. From the line of this wall, nearly opposite
Callendar house, an earthen wall of considerable
height and thickness, without a fosse — broad at the
top, and designed apparently to be both a road and
a line of defence — branches off eastward, runs
through West Quarter house garden, and passes
away toward the old castle of Almond. Though it
can hardly, if at all, be traced beyond that castle, it
may be presumed to have originally extended to the
Eoman camp in Linlithgow, on the spot which
afterwards became the site of the royal palace. Old
Camelon — houses and streets of which were trace-
able at a comparatively late date — was anciently a
Eoman town ; and is even spoken of — fabulously,
we suspect — as the scene of opulence and royal
adornings at the period when the Romans took pos-
session. See Camelon. Several interesting organic
remains have, in recent years, been found in the
parish, particularly part of the skeleton of a whale,
18 inches below the surface of the ground, about 3
miles from the sea, and a petrified tree, about 5 feet
in girth, in the rock of the railway tunnel, 129 feet
from the surface.
The parish of Falkirk is notable in history as the
scene of two important battles. The first battle of
Falkirk was fought on the 22d of July, 1298, be-
tween Scottish and English armies, headed respec-
tively by Sir William Wallace, the guardian of
Scotland, and Edward I. of England. The Scottish
army, consisting of 30,000 men, collected by Wal-
lace and other chiefs, took post somewhat more than
half-a-mile north of the town of Falkirk, to await
the approach of the English; and were drawn up
in three — the English writers say four — divisions of
a circular form, with their spears advanced horizon-
tally, and with intermediate lines or bodies of arch-
ers, and the cavalry about 1,000 strong in the rear.
While Wallace had the chief command, Sir John
Comyn of Badenoch, Sir John Stewart of Bonkill,
Sir John Graham of Abercorn, and Macduff, the
uncle of the Earl of Fife, shared his responsibilities,
and appeared with him in the field. The English
army, amounting, according to some accounts, to
86,000 foot, but really consisting of a conjectural
number of infantry, and a fine body of veteran cav-
alry, who constituted the main strength, advanced
in three great bodies; the first led by the Earl Mar-
shal of England and the Earls of Hereford and Lin-
coln, the second by the Bishop of Durham and Sir
Ralph Basset de Drayton, and the third — which was
probably intended as a corps de reserve — by King
Edward in person. A morass which was in front
of the Scottish army, but is now drained by the
canal, considerably embarrassed the English in their
attack. The first division, advancing with .great
ardour, became momentarily embarrassed, and found
that they could not rush onward to the front of the
foe; but, turning to the left, they found firm ground,
and ran down upon the Scottish army's flank. The
second division, more wary of the ground, and hur-
ried on by the impetuosity of Sir Ralph Basset, their
commander, assailed the left wing of the Scots al-
most at the moment of the first division charging
the right. The Scots made so brave a resistance
that the English, depending mainly on their cavalry,
could not, for some time, make any impression ;
but eventually they were thrown into disorder, and
.-subjected to fearful carnage, while the whole of
their cavalry, commanded by nobles who feared and
Uated Wallace, fled. Stewart and his division were
surrounded ; and, after a gallant defence, both the
commander and the most of his troops were hewn
down. Wallace, for a brief period, continued the
combat against the whole power of the enemy; till
seeing himself about to be attacked in the rear and
surrounded, he retreated with such valour and mili-
tary skill as to cross the Carron, at a ford near
Arthur's Oven, in view of the victorious army.
The total loss of the Scots was about 15,000 men.
Though no monuments exist on the field, there are
two in its vicinity. On the summit of a hill, a mile
south-east of Callendar wood, stands a stone 3 feet
high, 1J broad, and 3 inches thick, called Wallace'
stone, commanding a full prospect of the field of ac-
tion at the distance of two miles, and probably
marking the spot on which Wallace took post pre-
vious to the battle. In the churchyard of Falkirk,
is the gravestone of Sir John Graham, who fell in
the action, and who, as well as Sir John Stewart,
was buried in the cemetery. The gravestone has
been trebly renovated ; or rather there are three
superincumbent stones, each of the upper ones be-
ing a copy of the one beneath it. On all are the
following inscriptions:
"Mente manuque potens, Valla; fidtis Achates,
Condilur hie Gramus, be]lo inlerfeetus ab Anglis.
xxii. Julii. anno 1298."
" Heir lyes Sir John the Grame, baith wight and wise,
Ane of the chiefs who reschewit Scotland thrice.
Ane better knight not to the world was lent,
Nor was gude Grame of truth and hardiment."
The second battle of Falkirk was fought on the
17th of January, 1746, between 6,000 of the royal
troops, and about an equal or probably superior num-
ber of the troops of Prince Charles Edward. While
the Pretender invested Stirling, Lieutenant-general
Hawley, at the head of the small royal army,
marched from Edinburgh to relieve the castle ; and
arriving at Falkirk, he encamped between the town
and the former field of battle, intending to wait
there till he should obtain sufficient intelligence for
the effective arrangement of his operations. His
antagonists, so far from being intimidated by his
approach, resolved to attack him in his camp ; and,
marching from their rendezvous, adroitly used such
stratagems to divert and deceive the royal troops,
that they were about to cross the Carron at Duni-
pace, before they were perceived. Hawley, the
commander, was not at the moment in his camp ;
but, finding his troops formed on his hurried arrival
from the vicinity, and seeing the Highland infantry
rapidly marching toward a hill upwards of a mile
south-west of his position, and about a mile due
south of the aqueduct bridge since erected, he or-
dered his dragoons consisting of three regiments, to
take possession of the hill, and commanded his in-
fantry to follow. The Highlanders won the race,
which was now run for the occupancy of the van-
tage-ground, and drew up in a battle-array of two
lines, with a reserve in the rear. The royal troops,
making the most of their circumstances, formed in
two lines along a ravine in front of the enemy; but,
owing to the convexity of the ground, saw their
antagonist force, and were seen in their turn, only
in the central part of the line. Their dragoons were
on the left, commanded by Hawley in person, and
stretching parallel to more than two-thirds of the
enemy's position; and their infantry were on the
right, partly in rear of the cavalry, and outlined by
two regiments the enemy's left. The armies stand-
ing within 100 yards of each other, both unprovided
on the spot with artillery, Hawley ordered his dra-
goons to advance, sword in hand. Meeting with a
warm reception, several companies, after the first
onset, and receiving a volley at the distance of 10 or
FALKIRK.
G29
FALKIRK.
12 paces, wheeled round, and galloped out of sight,
disordering the in fan try and exposing their left flank
by the flight. The Highlanders taking advantage
of the confusion, outflanked the royal forces, rushed
down upon them with the broadsword, compelled
them to give way, and commenced a pursuit. The
King's troops were greatly incommoded by a tem-
pest of wind and rain from the south-west, which
disturbed their vision and wetted their gunpowder,
but did not annoy their antagonists ; and, but for
the spirited exertions of two unbroken regiments
and a rally of some scattered battalions, who checked
the pursuers, they would have been entirely routed.
Prince Charles with his army remained during the
night at Falkirk, and next day returned to Bannock-
burn. Hawley's total loss in killed, was 12 officers
and 55 privates, and in killed, wounded, and miss-
ing, 280. Among the persons of rank who were
left dead on the field, were Sir Robert Munro of
Foulis, Bart., and his brother Duncan, a physician.
They were buried beside each other in the church-
yard of Falkirk, and commemorated in a superb
monument erected over their ashes, and inscribed
with a succinct statement of the circumstances of
their death. The ground on which the battle was
fought is now intersected by the Union canal and
the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway.
The parish of Falkirk is in the presbytery of Lin-
lithgow, and svnod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Pa-
tron, the Crown. Stipend, £339 4s. 2d.; glebe, £10
10s. Unappropriated teinds, £1,474 18s. Id. Incon-
siderably populated parts of the parish, quoad civilia,
are annexed quoad sacra to the parishes of Slaman-
nan and Cumbernauld. The parish church was built
in 1811, and contains 1,300 sittings. There is a
church at Camelon, built in 1840, constituted quoad
sacra parochial in 1853, and containing 660 sittings.
There is at Grangemouth a large school-room be-
longing to the Earl of Zetland which is employed as
a chapel of ease. There are two Free churches at re-
spectively Falkirk and Grangemouth : attendance
at the former, 565, — at the latter, 350 ; sum raised
in 1854 in connexion with the former, £335 0s. 4:\d.,
—in connexion with the latter, £210 18s. 2d. There
are three United Presbyterian churches in Falkirk,
— the East, with an attendance of 500 ; the West,
with an attendance of 600 ; and the South, with an
attendance of 270. There is a Reformed Presbyte-
rian church at Laurieston. with 250 sittings, and an
attendance of about 60. There are also in Falkirk
a Congregational chapel, an Evangelical Union
chapel, a Baptist chapel, and a Roman Catholic
chapel. The census of 1851 exhibits, as within the
parliamentary burgh of Falkirk, two Establishment
places of worship, with 2,050 sittings, and an at-
tendance of 1,081 ; two Free church places of wor-
ship, with 1,620 sittings, and an attendance of 915;
two United Presbyterian places of worship, with
2,651 sittings, and an attendance of 835; one Re-
formed Presbyterian place of worship, with 250 sit-
tings, and an attendance of 60 ; one Congregational
chapel, with 1,000 sittings, and an attendance of
440; two Baptist chapels, with 160 sittings, and an
attendance of 37 ; and one Roman Catholic chapel,
with 300 sittings, and an attendance of 313. — There
are two parochial schools, one of them English, and
the other classical. The master of the former has
£34, besides fees; and the master of the latter, who
employs an assistant, has £17 2s. 2Jd. salary, with
about £35 fees, and £8 6s. 8d. other emoluments.
There are in the parish about 40 other schools, at-
tended by about 2,000 children. One of these is a
charity school, with an elegant school-house. A be-
quest was left in 1 853 by Mr. Gaff of Falkirk for an-
othercharity school. Several others are aided by local
endowments, or by public salaries. And in tho
burgh are good private seminaries, some for boys,
and others for girls.
Large as the parish of Falkirk still is, it was for-
merly so extensive as to include the present parishes
of Denny, Slamannan, Muiravonside, and Polmont.
All of these, except the last, must have been de-
tached from it at a veiy early period ; and Polmont
was detached in 1724. When the estate of Callen-
dar was sold after its confiscation in 1715, such
tithes as were not made part of it, were conveyed
under the stipulation that they should he subject to
the stipend of a minister for a new parish to be de-
tached from Falkirk. Polmont accordingly draws
stipend from the parishes both of Falkirk and of
Denny, in which the estate is situated. The church
of Falkirk was formerly called Ecclesbrae, or ' the
Church on the brow;' and according with the de-
scriptiveness of this name, it and the town around
it stand on an eminence or rising ground which, on
all sides, has a declivity or brae. In the Gaelic
language, it is called Eaglis bhrU, but more com-
monly Eglais bhrec. The former of these phrases
signifies 'the Broken church;' and is not inaptly
translated, 'Falkirk,' or 'the fallen or falling
church.' Nor may the name have been without al-
lusion ; the parish place of worship which preceded
the present one having presented undoubted ap-
pearances of not being all built at one epoch. In
1 166, it was given by the Bishop of St. Andrews to
the monks of Holyrood ; and, as it now became a
mere vicarage, and may have suffered neglect, it
possibly fell into ruin, and assumed the properties,
and consequently the name, of a 'fallen kirk.'
The other Gaelic designation, Eglais bhrec, signifies
' the spotted church,' and is adopted by Buchanan
in the translated name, ' Variurn Sacellum,' ap-
plied by him to Falkirk, and supposed to allude
to the party-coloured appearance of its stones.
Another derivation of the modern name is from val-
lum and lark, easily transmutahle into Falkirk, and
signifying 'the church upon the wall,' in allusion,
as is alleged, to the near vicinity of the wall of
Antoninus.
Falkirk, a post and market town, a parliament-
ary burgh, the capital of the eastern part of Stir-
lingshire, is situated near the centre of the parish
of Falkirk, about a mile from the Falkirk station of
the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway, 11 miles
south-east of Stirling, 22J north-east by east of
Glasgow, and 24 west by north of Edinburgh. It
stands, as to its main body, on a gently rising
ground, dotted round in its environs with neat and
beautiful villas, and sending off in different direc-
tions two elongated and thin suburbs. Seen from
the soft eminences to the north and north-west, it
presents, with its fine spire and iis thick grouping
of buildings, a beautiful foreground to the brilliant
landscape over which it presides; but, when en-
tered, the town is far from heing in general of a
pleasing aspect. An utter want of uniformity or
tastefulness in its buildings, the absence of all spa-
ciousness and plan in the arrangement of its streets,
and a deficiency in the indications of enterprise and
refinement in the number or architecture of its pub-
lic edifices, depreciate it as a town far below the
importance which belongs to it as a market, and as
the seat of a great population. Its High-street, or
main street, indeed, is, over most of its length, of
half-a-mile from east to west, wide and airy, — and
has in its wide part large houses and good shops, —
and about its middle, sends back in one side a recess
in which stands the town-hall; but even this is uni-
form in nothing, mean in some of its edifices, con-
stantly changeful in its breadth, and destitute of tho
FALKIRK.
630
FALKIRK.
trivial grace of straightness. Over nearly half its
length, from a little west of its middle eastward, the
sides of this street are subtended by mimic crowds
of tiny streets, which, pressing in upon it at various
angles of junction, or of divergency from parallel-
ism— though they do give the town an extreme
breadth of not more than 300 yards — occasion more
serious perplexity to a stranger than he feels in
two-thirds of the far-spreading New town of Edin-
burgh. The branch-streets, and their divergent
and intersecting alleys, are no fewer than about 20
in number, several of them only about 100 yards in
length, some of them not more than about 60 yards;
and, with scarcely an exception, they are confined,
narrow, unpleasing thoroughfares. An area, how-
ever, at the west end of the clustered part of the
town, and graced with the stately form of the
parish church, fully partakes the airy appearance of
the principal part of the High-street. But the
town, properly viewed, is quite as remarkable for
the straggling extension of its limbs away among
cornfields, and an open agricultural territory, as for
the squeezing up of its main body within oriental
street limits. Both the east and the west ends of
its High-street are, in fact, solitary street lines
which look as if they were wandering away from
the town with which they communicate. Another
thoroughfare, called Kerse-lane, after being reach-
ed by angular turnings, or irregular debouchings
through the north wing of the town, straggles
away in utter loneliness upwards of J of a mile on
the road to Grangemouth. But, more surprising
than all, a thoroughfare, leading due north from the
area at the middle of the High-street, runs onward
to fully the distance of a mile, 3£ times the length
of the body or compact part of the town, and 6
times its breadth ; and this enormous elongation,
over two-thirds of its way, is but a solitary street,
and over the other third, which is the central one,
Bends off branch streets averaging not more than
160 yards in length. The extreme third of it be-
gins on the north side of the canal, and is the vil-
lage or suburb of Brainsford ; and the central third
is the village or suburb of Grahamstown. These
suburbs owe their rise to their being on the road to
the great iron works of Carron, leading down on
the one side from these works, and on the other
from Falkirk to the most convenient point on the
canal. At Brainsford a basin projects out from the
canal ; and a railway communication comes up to
this from the iron-works. On the other or Grahams-
town side of the canal, are the premises of the
Falkirk foundry. Grahamstown, had it occupied
an independent position, or been unassociated as a
suburb with a town of utterly irregular arrange-
ment, would have been a village of pleasing aspect,
presenting, in its uniformity of plan, and the spaci-
ousness of its street called the Avenue, and the villa
form of several of its houses, a neat and orderly ap-
pearance.
The steeple of the town-hall in the central area
or market-place of Falkirk, is an elegant structure,
140 feet high, containing a clock and two bells, one
of them large and full-toned. It was built in 1813,
on the site of a former steeple, which had been
erected in 1697 and taken down in 1803. The
office of the Commercial Bank, in the High-street,
erected about 26 years ago, is a very elegant struc-
ture. The parish church is a square building, with
windows of a Gothic form, and a circular gallery.
Its predecessor was a cruciform structure, with a
central area of four lofty arches, forming the body
of the church, and surmounted by a steeple ; and
these arches and the steeple still remain, doing ser-
vice as a porch to the present church. The dis-
senting places of worship, in a general view, are
very plain buildings ; though several of them draw
attention by their commodiousness. The Roman
Catholic chapel was built in 1840, and is a Gothic
edifice, with belfry and ornamental cross. The
prison is strictly a place of confinement, without
any ainng ground. The poor-house contains ac-
commodation for 224 persons; and the number of
inmates on the 1st of July 1850 was 131,— on the
1st of July 1860, 128. There is an almshouse for
four aged persons, founded in 1 640 by Lord Living-
stone. There are several associations for the sup-
port of the aged, the infirm, and the sick. A be-
quest of £500 was left by W. Simpson of Plean for
behoof of the poor. The town has two public read-
ing-rooms, a subscription library, two other public
libraries, a school of arts, a horticultural society, an
agricultural association, a savings' bank, twenty-
one insurance offices, and branches of the Commer-
cial bank, the National bank, the Clydesdale bank,
the Royal Bank, and the Bank of Scotland. Two
newspapers are published, the Falkirk Herald, and
the Advertiser. The principal inn is the Red Lion.
The town has a good supply of water from the high
grounds to the south.
Falkirk is not, in the strict sense, a manufactur-
ing town. Its principal manufacture appears to be
leather ; but even this is not of considerable extent.
The town has no factories ; and has even ceased to
have any hand-loom weaving of cottons. The foun-
dry at Grahamstown employs about 1,000 men and
boys, in the manufacture of all sorts of cast-iron
articles ; and the various works noticed in our ac-
count of the parish, employ a large proportion of
the town's inhabitants. The general retail trade
also is large. A weekly market for agricultural
produce is held on Thursday, and is well attended.
Some general dealers in corn and cattle make Fal-
kirk their head-quarters, and draw hither periodi-
cally a considerable influx of strangers. In the
neighbourhood of the town, also, are held the most
extensive fairs in Great Britain for black cattle,
sheep, and horses. These are famous all over the
kingdom, and have been so from time immemorial,
under the name of the Falkirk trysts. They have
been held since about the year 1775 on Stenhouse-
moor, an uncultivated field of about 80 acres in ex-
tent, on the estate of Stenhouse, hi the parish of
Larbert, about 3 miles north-north-west of Falkirk.
Before that time, they were held for many years on
Bonnymoor, 3 miles west-south-west of Falkirk,
the scene of the skirmish between the radicals and
the military in 1820 ; and at a still more remote
period they were held on the Reddingrig-moor, a
large uncultivated piece of ground, on an elevation
in which a monument to Sir William Wallace was
erected in 1810. These trysts serve generally for
the meeting of the Highland sellers of live stock
with the Lowland buyers, or for transferences from
the great rearers to the great fatteners and the
general dealers; and they may, without much ex-
aggeration, be designated the grand focus of the
cattle trade of Scotland, or the main centre toward
which the subordinate cattle fairs converge. They
are held thrice a-year, on the second Tuesday of
August, the second Monday of September, the
second Monday of October, and following days,
generally for three days at a time.
For many days previous to the September and the
October trysts, all the highways which lead from
the north to the trysting-ground exhibit, from morn-
ing to night, an almost uninterrupted line of sheep
and oxen. And on a recent occasion, when some
unexpected obstacle presented itself at the St. Nini-
an's toll-bar to the passing of the droves, the whole
FALKIRK.
631
FALKIRK.
line of road northward from that point as far as
to Sheriffmuii', a distance of not less than 5 or 6 miles,
was, in the course of a few hours, completely blocked
up. The stir which the trysts occasion in the neigh-
bourhood is remarkably great. The inns at and
around Falkirk are completely occupied for several
days before each. Not less than from fifty to a
hundred large and commodious tents are erected on
the ground for the purpose of affording refreshments
to the crowds which resort thither; and agents of
the principal banks in Scotland always attend in
temporary booths for the purpose of facilitating mone-
tary transactions. Pennant mentions that the num-
ber of cattle yearly exposed for sale at these trysts,
when he visited Scotland in 1772, amounted to
24,000. Dr. Graham, in his ' View of the Agricul-
ture of Stirlingshire,' published in 1812, states that
at the August tryst there are generally exhibited
from 5,000 to 6,000 black cattle ; at the September
tryst about 15,000 black cattle, and 15,000 sheep ;
and at the October tryst from 25,000 to 30,000, and
even 40,000 black cattle, and about 25,000 sheep.
At the last two trysts, especially at that of October,
a great number of horses are also exposed to sale.
" Thus it appears," says Dr. Graham, " that there
are annually exhibited at these trysts above 50,000
black cattle, together with about 40,000 sheep.
Taking the former at the moderate average value of
£8, and the latter at that of 15s. each, the value of
the whole will amount to £430,000. An intelligent
friend who lives near the spot calculates that 50,000
black cattle are exposed to sale at the last two trysts
alone; and he estimates on good ground that the
total value of the cattle bought and sold at these
trysts must amount to half-a-million sterling." The
estimates, by competent judges, at more recent
periods, are variously higher and lower, seeming to
indicate a very considerable fluctuation ; and one of
them goes so high as to make the average number
of cattle at the three trysts vearly no less than at
least 300,000.
The sheep market is held on the first day of each
tryst; and here are found lots from almost every
district in the north and north-west of Scotland, in-
cluding Sutherland, Ross, Inverness, Argyle, and
the Western Islands. Some of the droves have
travelled from 200 to 300 miles; but as the stages
are short and easy, and the time occupied by the
journey from three weeks to a month, the seller
generally contrives to bring his lot to the ground in
good condition, neither foot-sore nor weary. The
black cattle are shown and sold on the second day,
or continued over to the third, should the market be
a dull and hanging one. There are the runts from
Angus, Aberdeen, and Banff, milkers from Ayrshire,
short-horned from the Lothians, and the small hardy
kyloes from Argyle, the Western Islands, and even
Shetland. There are also droves of Shetland ponies,
sllaggy and unkempt, which have never known the
trammels of bit or bridle. The men who have ac-
companied and tend the lots, are so dissimilar in
tongue, dress, and aspect, that it is difficult to believe
they own the same Sovereign and belong to the
same_country as their Lowland brethren. Although
the kilt is now rarely seen, there is plenty of the bonnet
and tartan, and Gaelic is heard ou every side. At
times when the market is densely crowded, and there
is danger of the separate lots being mixed, the Celt
is seen in all his fury and excitement; his Highland
blood is up, and he screams himself hoarse in shout-
ing to his dogs, ordering his neighbours or assist-
ants, and threatening with the infliction of his
cudgel those who show a disposition to encroach
upon his stance, or throw his lot into confusion.
The maledictions between the herdsmen are ex-
changed in Gaelic ; and as the colleys seem to catch
the spirit of their masters, the contention is generally
wound up by a general worry — presenting altogether
a scene of the most admired disorder, and of no little
amusement to those who have nothing else to do
but to look on. In the main, however, the High-
land drovers are good-natured fellows, and disposed
to be civil and obliging; but occasional squabbles are
unavoidable where so many are gathered together,
and where there is so much risk of the various lots
getting mixed and confused. Apart from the more
important business of the tryst, there is ample scope
for the small traffic, the treatings, and the amuse-
ment which characterise all the great Scottish fairs.
Caravan " shows " are abundant ; Wombell's mena-
gerie perhaps is there ; stalls, huxtery- carts, merry-
go-rounds, tumblers, tricksters, fiddlers, and all the
motley tribe akin to them, crowd the ground. The
tents also supply but too plenteously the means of
coarse conviviality and of drunkenness ; and on
many a spot behind them, for the assuaging of the
honest hunger of the herdsmen and other peasants,
hangs over a hot fire an immense broth-pot, almost
of the capacity of a cauldron, in which potatoes and
the " king of grain " are
" Tumbling in the boiling flood
Wi1 kail and beef."
Falkirk occupies the site of one of those military
stations on the wall of Antoninus, known by the
name of the forts of Agricola. Hence a number of
the relics of the Roman people have been found from
time to time here and the neighbourhood. About
45 years ago there were discovered at Parkhouse,
about a quarter of a mile to the north-west of Falkirk,
two urns containing human bones, which bore evi-
dent marks of having been subjected to the action
of fire ; and these must have been Roman, for no
other people ever possessed this country with whom
incremation was a customary practice. About 27
years ago a number of fragments of earthenware
were dug up in a garden in the Pleasance of Falkirk,
and among them one vessel, round the margin of
which the word ' Nocturna,' was legible. They
were generally unglazed, of a white or brown colour,
and some ornamented with raised figures on the
outer surface. A piece of ornamental brass, that
apparently had been used as the top of a flag-staff,
was also discovered near Camelon, by workmen
employed in digging the foundations of a distillery.
The original town of Falkirk was evidently a place
of considerable antiquity ; and is supposed to have
once been wholly comprehended within the ancient
barony of Callendar. After having become depend-
ent first on the see of St. Andrews, and next on the
abbey of Holyrood, its lands came to be included in
the extensive barony and lordship of Kerse, belong-
ing to this abbey, which was, in 1393, erected by
Robert III. into a free regality. At the Reformation,
the monastery of Holyrood feued out its temporal
possessions to Sir John Bellendean, Lord-justice-
clerk, whose son, Sir Lewis, obtained in 1587 a
Crown-charter from James VI. of these acquisitions,
which were constituted into the new barony of
Broughton. The barony of Kerse, called Abbots-
Kerse, comprehending the lands of Falkirk, and the
patronage of the church, was included in this new
barony. In 1606, Sir Lewis Bellendean conveyed
the lands of Falkirk to his brother-in-law, Alexander,
7th Lord Livingstone, "who possessed the barony of
Callendar. The family of Livingstone obtained the
barony of Callendar in the reign of David II. Part
of the town of Falkirk held of this family. In 1600
James VI. granted a charter of novo damus in favour
of Alexander Lord Livingstone, of the barony ol
FALKIRK.
632
FALKIEK.
Callendar, in which the town of Falkirk was erected
into a free hm-gh-of-barony, with privileges of mer-
chandise and artificers, as in other free burghs, and
with power to Lord Livingstone of creating bur-
gesses, holding weekly markets, baring two fairs
annually, of electing bailies and other officers for
the government of the burgh, and of holding courts
within the burgh. This charter also contained a
grant of regality, but which it was provided should
evacuate on payment of £10,000, said to be due to
Lord Livingstone by the Crown. In 1634 Alex-
ander, Earl of Linlithgow, granted the barony of
Callendar to his brother, Sir James Livingstone,
who was created by Charles I. successively Lord
Almond and Falkirk, and Earl of Callendar.
In 1637 the Bishop of Edinburgh, to whose see
the possessions of the abbots of Holyrood had been
annexed, with consent of his dean and chapter — the
minister of Falkirk being one of his prebendaries —
conveyed to Lord Almond, by charter of novo damvs,
the whole barony of Falkirk, with all the feudal
casualties and powers formerly held by the abbots
of Holyrood. This charter confirmed the grant of
Alexander Earl of Linlithgow to Lord Almond, and
conveyed a power to the grantee of bailiary and
justiciary, &c. In 1646 the Earl of Callendar ob-
tained a charter from the Crown, erecting his estates,
including the baronies of Callendar and Falkirk,
into a free regality, to be called the regality of Cal-
lendar, with the usual powers and privileges. By
this charter, the town of Falkirk, as well as that
part of it which from ancient times was held of the
abbots of Holyrood as the remaining part of the town
which was from ancient times part of the barony of
Callendar, is united and erected into one whole and
free burgh-of-regality, to be called the burgh of
Falkirk. Power is given to build a court and prison,
to erect a market-cross, to elect and name bailies
and other magistrates, to create free burgesses, with
liberty to them to sell all staple goods and others
imported from within or without the kingdom, and
generally to exercise all the privileges of a burgh of
regality. There is also a grant of two weekly
market-days and four free fairs, with power to the
Earl and his bailies to draw the customs of the fairs
and markets, and to apply them as they think proper.
This charter was ratified by parliament, March 27th,
1647 ; but the ratification is now lost. The estate
of Callendar, on the Earl's resignation, passed to
Alexander Lord Livingstone, his nephew, who, in
1663, obtained a charter from Charles II., which
recites the charter of Charles I., and besides confer-
ring various privileges, and constituting the whole
estates of the grantee into an earldom, it of new
erects the town of Falkirk, with the pertinents
thereof, into a free burgh-of-regality, with all the
privileges in the charter recited. The town con-
tinued to hold of the family of Livingstone till the
attainder, in 1715, of the Earl of Linlithgow and
Callendar. During the time of the estate of Cal-
lendar being held by the York buildings' company,
there was always a resident baron-bailie ; and, after
it was accpiired by Mr. Forbes, a person continued
to be appointed by him to that office till about the
end of the last century. Since then the office has
been vacant, and the old barony jail was allowed to
go to ruin, and afterwards removed.
The management of the affairs of the town and
community became now vested in two separate
bodies, the stent-masters and the committee of
feuars. The stent-masters are a very ancient body,
and their records go back more than 150 years.
They are elected annually, and are 24 in number ;
four being chosen by the merchants, two by each of
the trades of hammermen, wrights, weavers, shoe-
makers, masons, tailors, bakers, and brewers, and
four from the suburbs of the town. Every person
who carries on business in any of these trades is
qualified to vote for and be elected a stent-master of
his craft. After election the stent-masters name
out of their body a preses and treasurer, and they
have also a clerk. The stent-masters stre the
governing body in the town, and their powers are
founded on immemorial usage. They have no
jurisdiction, however, and apply to the sheriff by
ordinary action, in name of their preses and trea-
surer, to have their decreets enforced; and, it is
said, that judge has uniformly supported their
authority. The committee of feuars is of more re-
cent origin. The greater part of the town is held in
feu of the estate of Callendar. The feuars had by
their titles generally a right of pasturage, and of
feal and divot, and quarrying stones in the moor of
Falkirk. But a declarator of division of the com-
monty having been brought by the proprietor of
Callendar, the feuars obtained, by a decree of the
court of session, in return for a renunciation of their
rights of property, commonty, or servitude in the
moor, certain important privileges and immunities.
Since the date of this decree the feuars have held
meeting's as a separate body. They elect a preses,
treasurer, and clerk, and keep a record of their
proceedings. The property of the town consists of
its water-works and wells; of a piece of land called
the washing-green; of Callendar riggs, extending
to about an acre, on which the markets are held; of
the customs of the town, formerly levied by the
superior; and of the town's steeple, with a shop
under it. The revenue arises chiefly from an as-
sessment collected from the inhabitants under the
name of stent, or water-money, amounting to about
£200 per annum ; and the annual expenditure was
estimated some years ago at £174 2s. The powers
of the stent-masters extend over the regality, which
includes some arable land, but excludes the suburbs
of Grahamstown, Brainsford, &c, which are compre-
hended within the parliamentary boundary.
There is no burgh-jurisdiction of any sort; but
justice-of-peace courts for the district are held in the
town once a-month, the ordinary sheriff court for
the eastern district of Stirlingshire is held on every
Monday and Wednesday during session, and the
sheriff small debt court is held every Wednesday.
There is no corporation now possessed of exclusive
privileges. During the existence of the regality
powers in the family of Livingstone, burgesses were
created, and corporations of craftsmen erected.
The burgesses were admitted by the superior him-
self, who subscribed the burgess ticket. The cor-
porations appear to have had charters from the
superior, one of which to the hammermen, dated 1st
July, 1G89, is still extant, granting them exclusive
privileges, and giving power to choose a deacon and
box-master. These privileges are now obsolete, and
the only remnant of the pri vileges of the corporations
is their voice, as separate bodies, in choosing the
stent-masters. By the act 3 and 4 William IV. c.
77, the town obtained a municipal constitution.
The council consists of a provost, three bailies, a
treasurer, and seven councillors. A sheriff-sub-
stitute, and the procurator-fiscal for the eastern dis-
trict of Stirlingshire reside in Falkirk. On any
emergency the inhabitants watch the town, undei
the name of the town-guard. Falkirk unites with
Linlithgow, Hamilton, Lanark, and Airdrie, in re-
turning a member to parliament. Constituency in
1862,355. Population in 1841, 8,209; in 1861,
9,030. Houses, l,026.-Amongdistinguishednatives
or denizens of Falkirk may be mentioned the
engineers William Symington and Dr. James
FALKLAND.
633
FALKLAND.
Walker, the admiral Sir Charles Napier, and the
divines Dr. James Wilson, Dr. Henry Belfrage, and
John Brown Patterson.
FALKLAND, a parish, containing the royal burgh
of Falkland, the post-office village of Freuchie, and
the villages of Balmbrae and Newton of Falkland,
in the Cupar district of Fifeshire. It is bounded by
Strathmiglo, Auchtermuchty, Kettle, Markinch,
Leslie, and Portmoak. Its length eastward is 6
miles ; and its greatest breadth is about 4 miles.
Its ancient name was Kilgour, signifying "the
pleasant church;" and its modern name, which
seems to have arisen in some allusion to the old
princely sport of hawking, was applied successively
to the royal park or chase of Falkland, to the castle,
to the palace, to the town, and to the parish. The
Eden flows on part of the northern boundary-line ;
and an affluent of the Leven on part of the southern.
The parochial surface is beautifully diversified; and
in many places finely ornamented with wood. At
the north, near the Eden, there is a considerable
tract of level ground, which ascends as we proceed
south, until it rises into the East Lomond hill, and
the high ridge which connects it with the West
Lomond ; and on the south of this range it descends
until it joins the parish of Leslie; hut the lowest
elevation of the southern district parish is consider-
ably above that of the northern. In the general
landscape of this portion of the county, the range of
the Lomonds, with the two lofty peaks which form
their eastern and western terminations, are beauti-
ful and interesting features; and the different views
from their summits are extensive and finely diver-
sified. See Lomond Hills. Of the ancient forest
of Falkland, in which the Scottish kings so often
enjoyed the pleasures of the chase, nothing now re-
mains, except the natural wood at Drumdreel in the
neighbouring parish of Strathmiglo. It had been
carefully preserved, so long as Falkland remained a
royal residence; but it is probable that after the
departure of James VI. to England, less care had
been taken of it. It was utterly destroyed, however,
in 1652, by Cromwell, who ordered the trees to be
cut down, for the purpose of their being used in the
construction of the fort he erected at Dundee. " This
yeare," says Lamont, " the English beganne to cutt
downe Fackland wood; the most pairt of the tries
were oakes." About a mile west of Falkland,
amidst pleasant and well-wooded enclosures, is
Nuthill, the residence of Mrs. Bruce, a splendid
Elizabethan edifice, erected in 1839-1844, after a
design by Mr. Burn of Edinburgh, at the cost of at
least £30,000. Farther west is Kilgour, where the
old church once stood, also the property of Mrs.
Bruce. On the south side of the Lomonds, and at
the west end of the parish, a lead-mine was at one
time worked, and silver extracted from the ore, but
it has been long given up. Few parishes have
made greater advances, in agricultural improvement
than this. The extensive drainage effected by the
late Mr. Bruce, and by some other proprietors, has
reclaimed a great extent of ground ; and excellent
grain crops are now produced far up the Lomonds,
where formerly there was only pasture for sheep.
At the time when the Old Statistical Account was
written, about one half of the parish was pasture-
ground; but at the time of the New Account, in
1845, only 10 acres were in undivided common, only
2,000 were occasionally waste, about 1,000 were
capable of being profitably improved, about 400
were under wood, and all the rest, amounting to
about 8,000, were either regularly or occasionally
in tillage. There are sixteen landowners possessing
an yearly value of £50 and upwards. The valued
reut is £5,824 Scots. Assessed property in 1843,
£8,605 18s. 7d. A great part of the population in
the town of Falkland, and in the villages, are em-
ployed in the weaving of linen goods of different
descriptions. Dowlas and sheeting are chiefly made
for the manufacturers of Dundee, Newburgh, Cupar,
and Ceres ; diaper and towelling for the manufac-
turers of Dunfermline; and drills for those of Kirk-
caldy and Dysart. There are no manufacturers
carrying on business on their own account in the
town of Falkland; but one manufactures dowlas
and sheeting in the village of Newton of Falkland ;
and six are engaged in the manufacture of window-
blinds in the village of Freuchie. The parish is
traversed by the road from Dysart to Newburgh,
and by the Perth fork of the Edinburgh, Perth, and
Dundee railway ; and it has a station on the latter
at Falkland-road. Population in 1831, 2,658; in
1861, 2,937. Houses, 628.
This parish is in the presbytery of Cupar, and
synod of Fife. Patron, Bruce of Falkland. Stipend,
£252 8s. 8d. ; glebe, £18. Unappropriated teinds,
£842 18s. 3d. Schoolmaster's salary, £34 4s. 4id.,
with about £50 fees. The parish church was
erected about 5 years ago, and has an attendance
of about 900. The previous church was a very old
building, of no architectural beauty. There is a
Free church at Falkland; and the sum raised in
connexion with it in 1854 was £67 17s. 5fd. There
is an United Presbyterian church at Freuchie, with
an attendance of about 250. There was recently a
Congregational place of worship, with an attendance
of above 60. There are three non-parochial schools ;
one of which is a subscription school in Freuchie. —
The church of Falkland, previous to the Reformation,
belonged to the priory of St. Andrews. On the Lo-
mond hills are traces of ancient fortifications which
the late Colonel Miller, in a paper on the battle of
Mons Granrpius, endeavoured to connect with the
movements of the Soman and the Caledonian armies;
and on the lands of Nuthill, are the remains of ex-
tensive lines which he supposed had been con-
structed by the Roman general previous to his
taking up his position in the camp at Pitlour.
Among distinguished men connected with the parish
of Falkland have been David Murray of Gospetrie,
first Viscount of Stormont, the ancestor of the Earls
of Mansfield, — Sir David Lindsay of the Mount, —
Richard Cameron, the famous Covenanter, — and, in
recent times, Dr. Doig of the Stirling grammar-
school. The " Jenny Nettles " of song hanged
herself upon a tree in Falkland wood.
The Town of Falkland stands at the north-east
base of the East Lomond hill, 4 miles north-west of
Markinch, 8 south-west of Cupar- Fife, and 25 north
of Edinburgh. It is a sequestered place, out of the
way of any thoroughfare, and has a curious, antique,
almost primitive appearance. Though enlivened
by a few modern erections, it consists mainly of
unpaved roadways, sloping alleys, intricate lanes,
and picturesque old small houses ; and it still retains
vestiges of former greatness in some of its local
names, such as Parliament-square, College-close,
and West-port. Most of its inhabitants are pro-
prietors of their own dwellings, and have each a
kail-yard. It was once affected with malaria from
neighbouring marshes, but, these having been com-
pletely drained, and the air always circulating fresh
around the Lomonds, the place is now remarkably
healthy. Though now little better than an ordi-
nary village, it was formerly a town of great resort,
and of considerable importance. The frequent
residence of the royal family at the palace, during
the reigns of the three last Jameses, brought the
nobility and the wealthier of the lesser barons often
to the town; and many of them had residences
FALKLAND.
634
FALKLAND.
within it or in its immediate neighbourhood. A
natural consequence of this was, it may easily be
supposed, the superior refinement of the inhabitants ;
and ' Falkland bred,' had become an adage. The
superiority, however, of Falkland breeding is, like
the former grandeur of the town and palace, now
among the things that were. The place is remark-
able also for a reminiscence of a totally opposite kind.
"A singular set of vagrants existed long in Falk-
land called Scrapies, who had no other visible means
of existence than a horse or a cow. Their ostensible
employment was the carriage of commodities to the
adjoining villages; and in the intervals of work
they turned out their cattle to graze on the Lomond
hill. Their excursions at night were long and
mysterious, for the pretended object of procuring
coals; but they roamed with their little carts
through the country-side, securing whatever they
could lift, and plundering fields m autumn. When-
ever any inquiry was addressed to a Falkland Scrapie
as to the support of his horse, the ready answer was
— ' Ou, he gangs up the (Lomond) hill ye ken.' "
The enclosing of the hill and the decay of the town,
however, put an end to this vagrancy.
Falkland was originally a burgh-of-barony be-
longing to the Earls of Fife; but it was erected into
a royal burgh in 1458, during the reign of James
II. The preamble to the charter of erection
states, as the reasons for granting it, the frequent
residence of the royal family at the manor of Falk-
land, and the damage and inconvenience sustained
by the many prelates, peers, barons, nobles, and
others of their subjects, who came to their country-
seat, for want of innkeepers and victuallers. This
charter was renewed by James VI. in 1 595. Among
the privileges which these charters conferred, was
the right of holding a weekly market, and of having
four fairs or public markets annually. To the pub-
lic markets two others were subsequently added, —
one called the linseed market, held in spring, and
the other the harvest market, held in autumn.
There are now seven public markets held through-
out the year. These occur in the months of Jan-
uary, February, April, June, August, September,
and November; but only the last is well-attended.
Like the neighbouring burgh of Auchtermuchty —
although certainly entitled originally to have done
so — Falkland does not appear at any time to have
exercised its right of electing a member to the Scot-
tish parliament; consequently its privileges were
overlooked at the time of the Union; but since the
passing of the reform bill, its inhabitants having
the necessary qualification are entitled to a vote in
the election of a member for the county. In all
other respects, however, this burgh enjoys the
privileges of a royal burgh. It is governed by a
town-council, consisting of 3 magistrates, 15 coun-
cillors, a treasurer, and a town-clerk. The revenue
of the burgh amounts on the average to about £60
yearly. The magistrates, besides managing with
the council the civil affairs of the burgh, hold courts
from time to time for the decision of questions aris-
ing out of civil contracts and petty delicts. The
town-house, which is ornamented with a spire, was
erected in 1802, and contains a hall in which the
burgh-courts and the meetings of the town-council
are held, and two rooms for a prison, which, how-
ever, are but seldom used, except for the temporary
purpose of a loek-up-house. No town probably in
Scotland is better supplied with spring- water. This
was begun to be brought in 1781 from the neigh-
bouring Lomonds by means of pipes, and is dis-
tributed by wells situated in different parts of the
burgh. This useful public work cost about £400
sterling, and was executed at the expense of the in-
corporation. It has a branch office of the City of
Glasgow Bank. Population in 1841, 1,313; in
1861,1,184. Houses, 310.
The lands of Falkland, including what now con-
stitutes the burgh, belonged originally to the Crown ;
and were obtained from Malcolm IV. by Duncan,
6th Earl of Fife, the fifth in descent from Macduff,
upon the occasion of his marriage with Ada, the
niece of the King. In the charter conferring them,
which is dated in 1160, the name is spelled " Faleck-
len." The lands of Falkland continued, with the
title and other estates, with the descendants of
Duncan, until 1371, when Isobel, Countess of Fife,
the last of the ancient race, conveyed the earldom
and estates to Robert Stuart, Earl of Monteith,
second son of Robert II., who thus became 16th
Earl of Fife, and was afterwards created Duke of
Albany. On the forfeiture of his son, Murdoch, in
1424, the lands of Falkland reverted to the Crown;
and the town was shortly afterwards erected into a
royal burgh. The courts of the stewartry of Fife —
which comprehended only the estates of the earl-
dom— were also removed from the county-town of
Cupar to Falkland, where they were afterwards
held as long as the office of steward existed. In
1601, Sir David Murray of Gospetrie, 1st Viscount
Stormont, obtained a charter of the Castle-stead of
Falkland, with the office of ranger of the Lomonds,
and forester of the woods; and he also held the
office of captain or keeper of the palace, and
steward of the stewartry of Fife. The lands called
the Castle-stead, with the offices and other parts of
the lands of Falkland, were afterwards acquired by
John, 1st Duke of Athole, who was appointed one of
his Majesty's principal secretaries of state in 1696,
and lord-high-commissioner to the Scottish parlia-
ment the following year. He was twice appointed
to the office of keeper of the privy seal, and was
made an extraordinary lord of session in 1712. The
lands and offices thus connected, afterwards, so far
as not abolished in 1746, came into the possession
cf the family of Skene of Halyards, from whom they
were purchased by the late J. Bruce, Esq., descended
from the family of Bruce of Earlshall, one of his
Majesty's printers for Scotland. At his death, he
was succeeded in these estates — consisting of 1,025
acres — by his niece, Miss Bruce, afterwards the
wife of O. T. Bruce, Esq.— Falkland gives the title
of Viscount to the English family of Carey; Sii
Henry Carey having been created Viscount Falk-
land by James VI., 1620.
At an early period, the Earls of Fife had a resi-
dence here, called the castle of Falkland. Not a
vestige of this building now remains; but its site
appears to have been in the immediate neighbour-
hood of where the palace was afterwards built. This
fortalice had in effect the honours of a palace, while
it was occupied by one of the blood-royal, Robert,
Duke of Albany, who, for 34 years, had all the
power of the state in his hands, under the different
titles of lieutenant-general, governor, and regent.
Although Robert gives it the more humble designa-
tion of " Manerium nostrum de Fawkland," it was
in fact the seat of authority; for his aged and infirm
father constantly resided in the island of Bute. It
receives its first notoriety, in the history of our
country, from the horrid cruelty here perpetrated by
Albany on his nephew David, Duke of Rothesay,
eldest son of Robert III. The governor, in conse-
quence of the great promise of this young prince,
fearing that he would prove the rival of his power,
used the basest means to prejudice his imbecile
father against him, and prevailed with him to issue
an order to arrest and confine him for some time, it
being represented to him that this was necessary for
FALKLAND.
635
FALKLAND.
curbing the violent humours of the youth. Being
inveigled, under false pretences, into Fife, he was
shut up in the tower of Falkland, where he was
consigned to the cruel fate of dying by famine. His
life was for some days feebly sustained by means of
thin cakes, pushed through a small crevice in the
wall, by a young woman, daughter to the governor
of the castle; but her mercy being viewed by her
ruthless father in the light of perfidy to him, she
was put to death. Even this brutal act did not
deter another tender-hearted female, employed in
the family as a wet-nurse, who supplied him with
milk from her breasts by means of a long reed,
until she, in like manner, fell a sacrifice to her
compassion.
After the lands and castle of Falkland came to
the Crown by the forfeiture of the earldom, the first
three Jameses occasionally resided at the castle, en-
joying the pleasures of the chase in the adjoining
"forest, and on the Lomond hills; and in consequence
cf this the charter was granted by James II., erect-
ing the town into a royal burgh. It is impossible
now to ascertain whether James III. or James IV.
began to build the palace, as both of these monarchs
were fond of architecture, and both of them em-
ployed workmen at Falkland; but the work was
completed by James V., and the palace from that
time became a favourite residence with the Scottish
monarchs. Here James V. held his court in all the
barbaric magnificence of the period; and here he
died of grief, at the disgrace brought upon his Crown
and his country by the opposition of his factious and
turbulent nobiiity. Here Mary of Guise, his widowed
(ueen, often resided, while she governed the king-
loin for her infant-daughter ; and here she found it
necessary to give her reluctant consent to the armis-
tice agreed to at Cupar-moor, between the lords of
the Congregation, and the Duke of Chatelherault
and Monsieur D'Oj'sel. Here, too, the unfortunate
Mary, after her return from France, oft sought
relief in the sports of the field from the many
troubles of her short but unhappy reign. She ap-
pears first to have visited it in September, 1561,
on her way from St. Andrews to Edinburgh. She
returned in the beginning of the following year,
having left Edinburgh to avoid the brawls which
had arisen between Arran and Bothwell; and re-
sided partly at Falkland, and partly at St. Andrews,
for two or three months. She occupied her morn-
ings in hunting on the banks of the Eden, or in
trials of skill in archery in her garden, and her
afternoons in reading the Greek and Latin classics
with Buchanan, or at che^s, or with music. During
1583, after her return from her expedition to the
north, she revisited Falkland, and made various
short excursions to places in the neighbourhood;
and again, in 1564, and after her marriage with
Darnley in 1565. After the birth of her son, she
once more visited Falkland; but this appears to
have been the last time, as the circumstances which
so rapidly succeeded each other, after the murder of
Darnley, and her marriage with Bothwell, left her
no longer at leisure to enjoy the retirement it had
once afforded her.
James VI., while he remained in Scotland, resided
often at the palace of Falkland ; and indeed it seems
to have been his favourite residence. After the raid
of Ruthven, James retired here, calling his friends
together for the purpose of consulting as to the best
means of relieving himself from the thraldom under
which he had been placed ; and he was again at
Falkland in 1593, when the Earl of Bothwell made
one of his desperate attempts on the King's person,
which led to the imprisonment of Wemyss, 'the
wanton laird o' young Logie,' whose escape forms
the subject of an ancient ballad. After the riots in
Edinburgh, in 1596, James again retired here,
where he employed himself partly in hunting, and
partly in plotting the destruction of the Presby-
terian religion, and the introduction of Episcopacy,
In the end of 1600, he was again residing at Falk-
land, when the Gowrie conspiracy, as it has been
called, took place. The King, one morning, was
about to mount his horse, to follow his favourite
sport, when the mysterious message was delivered
to him by Alexander Ruthven, brother to the Earl
of Gowrie, which led to the death of both these
young noblemen. In 1617, when James, now King
of Great Britain, visited Scotland, he, in his progress
through the kingdom, paid his last visit to Falkland.
In 1633, when Charles I. visited Scotland, he slept
three nights here, on his way to Perth ; and on his
return, he slept two nights in going to Edinburgh,
and created several gentlemen of the county knights.
Upon the 6th of July, 1650, Charles II., who had
returned from the continent on the 23d of the pre-
ceding month, visited Falkland, where he resided
some days, receiving the homage of that part of liis
subjects who were desirous of his restoration to the
crown of his ancestors ; and here he again returned,
after his coronation at Scone, on the 22d of January,
1651, and remained some days.
The oldest portion of the palace, which was erected
either by James III. or James IV., forms the south
front, and is still partially inhabited. On each floor
there are six windows, square- topped, and divided by
mullions into two lights. Between the windows,
the front is supported by buttresses, enriched with
niches in which statues were placed, the mutilated
remains of which are still to be seen, and terminat-
ing in ornamented pinnacles which rise considerably
above the top of the wall. The lower floor is the
part inhabited, and the upper floor is entirely occu-
pied by a large hall, anciently the chapel of the
palace. The western part of tills front of the
palace is in the castellated style, and of greater
height than the other; it is ornamented with two
round towers, between which is a lofty archway
which forms the entrance to the courtyard behind,
and which, in former times, was secured by strong
doors, and could be defended from the towers which
flank it. James V. made great additions to the
palace, and appears to have erected two ranges of
building, equal in size to that described, on the east
and north sides of the court-yard. As completed by
him, therefore, the palace occupied three sides of a
square court, the fourth or western side being en-
closed by a lofty wall. The range of building on
the north side of the court has now entirely disap-
peared, and of that on the west, the bare walls alone
remain ; these two portions of the palace having
been accidentally destroyed by fire in the reign of
Charles II. Having erected his addition to the
palace, in the Corinthian style of architecture, James
assimilated the inner front of the older part of the
building, by erecting a new facade in the same style
with the rest of the building. The building con-
sisted of two stories, a basement or lower floor, and
a principal one, the windows of which are large and
elegant, when we consider the period. Between the
windows, the facade is ornamented with finely pro-
portioned Corinthian pillars, having rich capitals ;
and above the windows are medallions, presenting
a series of heads carved in high relief, some of
which are beautifully executed, and would lead us
to believe that more than native talent had been
engaged in the work. On the top of the basement
which supports the pillars, the initials of the King
and of his Queen Mary of Guise, are carved alter-
nately. The architect who designed this building.
FALKLAND.
636
FARE.
and superintended its erection, was in all probability
Sir James Hamilton of Finnart, a natural son of the
1st Earl of Arran, who was cup-bearer to James V.,
steward of the household, and superintendent of the
royal palaces. He was accused of high treason,
tried, convicted, and executed as a traitor, in Aug-
ust, 1540.
The palace of Falkland, deserted by its royal in-
mates, was for a long series of years suffered to
tall into decay:
"The fretted roof looked dark and cold,
And tottered all around;
The carved work of ages old
Dropped wither'd on the ground ;
The casement's antique tracery
Was eaten by the dew ;
And the night-breeze, whistling mournfully
Crept keen and coldly through."
But it is now the property of Mrs. Bruce, who takes
great interest in its careful preservation, as well as
in ornamenting the court-yard with flowers and
shrubs, and the ground in its immediate neighbour-
hood, which she has laid out as a garden. The view
from the southera parapet of the palace has long
been admired; and as it can now be attained not
only with safety but even without any appre-
hension of danger, it will be often resorted to and
enjoyed. On the one hand, the Lomond hills spread
out their green sides, and point their conical sum-
mits to the sky; on the other, the whole strath of
Eden, the Howe of Fife from Cupar to Strathmiglo,
lies open and exposed ; and whilst the spectator will
naturally inquire after and regret the woods of Falk-
land, he will find that the present proprietor is doing
all that he can to make up for the spoliations of Crom-
well's soldiery. There is a large plain, on the east
of the palace, in which little knolls rise here and
there above the level. This consists of moss, which
not very many years ago was well-drained; exhib-
iting the remninsof whatwas called the Eose-loch, —
the knolls having been islets. The water of this lake
must thenhave washed that part of the building which
was discovered at the bottom of the garden. Some
persons quite recently deceased said they had shot
wild ducks on this loch.
It might reasonably be supposed, that, while
Falkland continued to be the occasional residence of
royalty, it was not only a place of resort to the
higher classes, but that the peasantry would be per-
mitted to enjoy that festivity here which was most
congenial to their humours. As it was a favourite
residence of that mirthful prince James V., it might
well be conjectured, from his peculiar habits, that
he would be little disposed to debar from its purlieus
those with whom he was wont frequently to associ-
ate in disguise. Accordingly, — although it is still
matter of dispute among our poetical antiquaries,
whether the palm should not rather be given to his
ancestor James L, — one of the most humorous effu-
sions of the Scottish muse, which contains an express
reference to the jovial scenes of the vulgar at Falk-
land, has, with great probability, been ascribed to
the fifth of this name:
"Was nevlr in Scotland hard nor sene
Sic dansin nor deray,
Notithir at Falkland on the Grene,
Nor Pebillis at the Play,
As wes of wowaris, as I wene.
At Christis kirk on ane day:" &c.
According to Allan Eamsayand the learned Callan-
der, ' Chrystis Kirk ' is the kirktown of Leslie, near
Falkland. Others have said, with less probability,
that it belongs to the parish of Leslie, in that part of
the county of Aberdeen called the Garioch. Pinker-
ton thinks that, besides the poems of ' Christis Kirk,'
and ' Peblis to the Play,' a third one, of the same
description, had been written, which is now lost,
celebrating the festivities of ' Falkland on the
Grene.' This phraseology might refer to what has
been called 'the park at Falkland.' Sir David
Lindsay, being attached to the court, must have
passed much of his time at this royal residence.
According to his own account — notwithstanding the
badness of the ale brewed in the burgh — he led a
very pleasant life here ; for, in the language of an-
ticipation, he bids adieu to the beauties of Falkland
in these terms :
" Fare weill, Falkland, the forteress ot Fyfe,
Thy polite park, under the Lowmound law :
Sum tyme in the, I led a lustie lyfe,
The fallow deir, to se thame raik on raw.
Court men to cum to the, thay stand grait aw,
Sayand, thy burgh bene of all bun-owis baill,
Because, hi the, they never gat gude aill."
FALKLAND (Newton of), a village in the par-
ish of Falkland, about a mile east of the town of
Falkland, Fifeshire. It is an irregularly built,
disagreeable place, inhabited principally by wea-
vers. Population, 236. Houses, 59.
FALL1N, a small harbour at which coals and
lime are shipped, on the river Forth, in the parish
of St. Ninian's, Stirlingshire. See Alloa.
FALLOCH (The), a rivulet of Perthshire and
Dumbartonshire. It rises on the north-east side of
Benchroan, on the southern limit of the parish of
Killin, runs 3J miles northward to Coilater-More ;
turns there abruptly round, and thence runs 3f miles
south-west, receiving on its right bank the waters
of Auld-Ennochbay and Auld-Chum, the former
coming 3£ miles from Loch Suss, and the latter 5J
miles from Mealmicran ; and after its confluence
with Auld-Churn, it flows 2 miles due south to the
head of Loch Lomond. Its entire length of course
is upwards of 9 miles ; and its motion, except near
the loch, is rapid and garrulous. From Coilater-
More downward, it flows along a romantic glen to
which it gives its name, overlooked by high moun-
tains, the lower acclivities of which, for some way,
as well as up the vale of Auld-Churn, are clothed
in plantation. The Loch Lomond steamers some-
times go about a mile up the stream.
FALSIDE. See Invekesk.
FANA. See Dunlin.
FANKEETON, a village on the northern border
of the parish of Denny, Stirlingshire. It stands on
the right bank of the Carron, 2 miles west of the
town of Denny. Population, 68. Houses, 17.
FANNICH (Loch), an alpine lake, nearly in the
centre of Boss-shire, and along the southern boun-
dary of one of the interspersed pendicles of Cromar-
ty-shire. It extends about 12 miles in the direction
of east-south-east, with a breadth of from 1 to 1 J
mile ; and sends off its superfluent waters about 5
miles to Loch Luichart, whence they are conveyed
to the river Conon. Contiguous to it are the hill
of Fannich, one of the Boss-shire alps, and the for-
est of Fannich, an extensive deer-chase.
FANNYSIDE. See Cumbernauld.
FANS, a village in the parish of Earlston, 3 miles
north-east of the town of Earlston, Berwickshire.
Population, 153. Houses, 28.
FAB. See Fare.
FAEA, a small island of the Hebrides, lying be-
tween Barra and South Uist.
FAEA, one of the small Orkney islands, about a
mile south-east of Hoy.
FABAY. See Pharay.
FABE (Hill of), a broad-based eminence, of 17
miles in circumference, and 1,794 feet in altitude,
on the mutual border of Aberdeenshire and Kincar-
dineshire. It forms part of the north screen of the
Dee, and belongs to the parishes of Echt, Midmar,
Kincardine O'Neill, and Banchory-Ternan. It af-
fords excellent pasture for numerous flocks of sheep,
producing mutton of a very superior flavour. The
interior part contains valuable moss for fuel; and
its luxuriant and beautiful heaths abound in moor-
fowl, hares, and other game. Here are chalybeate
springs, the water of which is dyed of a deep black
by a small infusion of tea. " In the middle of this
eminence," says the old Statistical Account of Mid-
mar, " is the vale of Corrichie, well-known as the
scene of battle, wherein the contending parties were
headed by the Marquis of Huntly, and the Earl of
Murray.* Huntly fell in this engagement, in which
his forces were routed by those of his antagonist,
the general of the unfortunate Mary. A small pos-
session on the north side of the hill, retains, at this
day, the name of Craig-Hume, in memory of one of
that family, who was slain in that battle, and is in-
terred in the neighbourhood."
FARG (The), a rivulet in the extreme east of
Perthshire. It rises among the Ochil hills, on the
boundary between the parishes of Forgandenny and
Arngask; traces that boundary southward for 1J
mile ; then suddenly debouches, and for 1\ miles
eastward, traces the boundary between Perthshire
and Kinross-shire ; then, after another sudden bend,
traces for 2} miles north-eastward, the boundary
between Perthshire and Fifeshire, passing the church
of Arngask, and carrying down the turnpike from
Edinburgh to Perth along its banks. It now runs
into Perthshire and soon enters Strathearn, and,
after a northerly course of 3i or 4 miles from the
point of its leaving the boundary of the county,
loses itself in the river Earn at Culfargie. Its en-
tire length of course is about 10J miles; and till it
reaches Strathearn, it flows along a deep, narrow,
wooded glen of much romantic beauty, to which it
gives the name of Glenfarg.
FAENELL, or Farxwell, a parish in the eastern
division of Forfarshire. Its post-town is Brechin,
3§ miles north-north-west of the church. It is
bounded by the parishes of Brechin, Maryton, Craig,
and Kinnell. Its length north-eastward is 5j miles ;
and its greatest breadth is 3h miles. The river
South Esk flows along the eastern half of the north-
ern boundary. The northern district occupies the
centre of a strath, which extends eastward about 5
miles to Montrose; and — with the exception of .a
hilly ridge of inconsiderable height which rises in
the south-west, and forks away in two lines into
the parishes of Maryton and Craig — is, in general,
flat. The soil on the rising grounds and in the
west, is of an inferior quality, consisting chiefly of
light black earth ; but, in the other parts of the
parish, it is a very fine clay and rich loam, equal to
the best soil in Scotland, and very much resembling
that of the carse of Gowrie between Perth and Dun-
dee. The South Esk has here tastefully wooded
banks, and is opulent in its fishery. Pow water
rises in numerous head-streams among moorlands
south and west of the parish, and sometimes brings
down upon the eastern district, before disemboguing
into the Esk, such inundating freshets as overflow
the fields, break down the fences, and spread around
extensive though temporary desolation. In the
western division is a moorland of 1,500 or 1 ,600 acres
covered with plantation. See Moxrithhoxt. About
560 acres elsewhere are also under wood. But all
the rest of the parish, excepting about 50 acres, is
in a state of luxuriant beauty, either under the
plough or in grassy decoration. On the north side
of the church, near the centre of the parish, stands
an ancient castle, kept in repair as a sort of alms-
house, which was formerly the seat of the Ogilvies
of Airlie. Sir James Carnegie, Bart, of South Esk,
is the proprietor of the whole district. His seat,
Kinnaird castle, situated in the north, has a very
magnificent appearance. It is built in the form of
a square, with a tower at each angle ; but is at
present undergoing extensive alterations on a plan
by Mr. Biyce of Edinburgh. The parish is tra-
versed by the Aberdeen railway, and has a station
on it. The yearly value of raw produce was esti-
mated in 1833 at £14,716. Assessed property in
1843, £5,425 18s. lid. Population in 1831, 582;
in 1861, 703. Houses, 118.
This parish is in the presbytery of Brechin, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £270 9s. 2d. ; glebe, £20, with the privi-
lege of feal and divot. Unappropriated teinds,
£385 17s. 8d. Schoolmaster's salary, £30, with £13
10s. fees, and £4 15s. 3Jd. other emoluments. The
parish church is a handsome oblong Gothic struc-
ture, built in 1806, and containing 330 sittings.
There are two private schools and a parochial
library. The real name of the parish, according to
the ancient spelling of it, is Fernell. This is said
to be of Gaelic origin ; fern, signifying in that Ian
guage, ' a den,' and nell, ' a swan ;' so that it should
seem to have derived its name from an adjoining
den, which, at that time, had been the abode of
swans. The district of Kinnaird, forming the west-
ern division, was disjoined from Farnell, and erected
into a separate parish, about the year 1633 ; but,
excepting a small part which was incorporated with
Brechin, it was reannexed by the court of session in
1787.
FABNESS. See Ardclach.
FAENESS (Meikle), an extinct village in the
parish of Cromarty.
FAENTJA. See Kirkhill.
FAEOUTHEAD, a conspicuous promontory in
the parish of Durness, Sutherlandshire. It is si-
tuated 7 miles east by south of Cape Wrath. It
projects 3 miles north-north-westward from the
mainland, forming the east shore of Durness bay.
The rocks on both sides of it have a sublime ap-
pearance, ascending from 200 to 700 feet almost per-
pendicularly from the water.
FARE, a mountainous parish, containing a post-
office station of its own name, in the northern divi-
sion of Sutherlandshire. It is bounded by the
Northern ocean, and by Eeay, Kildonan, Clyne,
Eogart, Lairg, Edderachillis, and Tongue. Its
length, south-south-westward, is nearly 40 miles ;
and its breadth varies from 8 miles to 20. Strathy
Water drains all the north-eastern district northward
to Strathy bay. Armidale Water drains a district of
about 5£ miles in length, and lying to the west of
Strathstrathy, northward to Armidale bay. The
river Naver gathers its head streams from the south-
ern extremities of the parish, contiguous to the cen-
tral watershed of the county, and traverses all the
interior north - north - eastward and northward to
Farr bay. Borgie Water, together with the super-
fluence of lakes running into it, traces most of the
western boundary northward to Tomsdale bay.
The parish is wholly the property of the Duke of
Sutherland ; and is chiefly laid out in sheep-walks.
The soil is in general barren and shallow ; but on
the banks of the Naver and the Borgie it is deep
and tolerably fertile. The extent of sea-coast is 13
miles. The shore is high and rocky, and consists
of Strathy-head and bay, Armidale-bay, Farr-head
and bay, and several other smaller promontories and
bays. The whole coast is excavated into extensive
caves ; which afford retreat to immense numbers of
seals. Loch Naver is the principal lake in the dis-
FABKALINE.
638
FAST CASTLE.
trict ; and there are several smaller lakes, from
which rise a few rivulets. Benelybrie, on the boun-
dary with Lairg, has an altitude of about 3,200 feet,
and figures very grandly in the scenery of the upper
part of Strathnaver ; but all the other heights are of
much lower elevation, and comparatively uninter-
esting. The principal antiquities are barrows, stand-
ing-stones, the remains of unmortared domes, and
the ruins of a mortar-built castle. " Betwixt Farr
and Kirtomy, in this parish," says Pennant, " is a
most singular curiosity, well worth the pains of a
traveller to view, being the remains of an old square
building or tower, called Borve, standing upon a
small point joined to the continent by a narrow neck
of land not 10 feet wide. This point or head is very
high, consisting of rock, and some gravel on the
top ; on both sides is veiy deep water, and a toler-
able harbour for boats. This tower seems to be
built by the Norwegians ; and a tradition is that
one Thorkel, or Torquil, a warrior mentioned by
Torfaeus, "was the person that built it. They speak
likewise of a lady that was concealed there ; she is
said to be an Orkney woman, and Thorkel was an
Orkney man. But what is most curious, is, that
through the rock upon which the tower stands, there
is a passage below of 200 feet in length, like a grand
arch or vault, through which they row a boat. The
writer has been one of a company that rowed
through it. The passage is so long, that when you
enter at one end, you fancy that there is no possi-
bility to get out at the other, and vice versa. How
this hard rock was thus bored or excavated, I can-
not say ; but it is one of the most curious natural
arches, perhaps, in the known world." The parish
is traversed through the interior by the road from
Tongue to Bonar-Bridge, and along the coast by
that from Tongue to Thurso. The yearly value of
raw produce was estimated in 1834 at £14,330.
Assessed property in 1843, £808 7s. 3d. Population
in 1831, 2,073; in 1861, 2,103. Houses, 421.
This parish is in the presbytery of Tongue, and
synod of Sutherland and Caithness. Patron, the
Duke of Sutherland. Stipend, £166 14s. 8d. ; glebe,
£8. Schoolmaster's salary, £34 4s. 4Jd., besides
fees and other emoluments. The parish church was
built in 1774, and contains 750 sittings. There is
a government church at Strathy, 10 miles east of the
parish church. It was erected in 1826, and consti-
tuted a quoad sacra parochial church in 1846, and
contains 350 sittings. There are two Free churches,
at respectively Farr and Strathy: attendance at
the former, 320, — at the latter, 300 ; sum raised in
1854 in connexion with the former, £65 17s., — in
connexion with the latter, £46 15s. There are in
the parish an Assembly's school, a Society's school,
a Gaelic school, and a savings' bank. A fair for
general traffic is held on the first Wednesday of
November at Bettyhill.
FARE, Inverness-shire. See Daviot and Dun-
LICH1TY.
FARRAGON. See Dull.
FAEEALINE (Loch), a small sheet of water in
the high mountains on the east side of Loch-Ness,
in the parish of Dores ; on the left of the road lead-
ing from the top of Strathnairn into Stratherrick ;
16 miles from the Perth road, and 2 J from the
tanks of Loch-Ness, by the pass of Inverfarrakaig.
in May 1841, as some men were engaged in the
drainage of part of this loch, they came upon a
quantity of old fire-arms, a brass blunderbuss, in ex-
cellent preservation, about a dozen of muskets, the
scabbard of a sword, and several other articles.
" There has been a tradition among the people of
the district for many years," says the editor of the
' Inverness Courier,'' " that a quantity of arms was
thrown into the lake at the stormy period of the re-
bellion in 1745, which seems to be confirmed by this
occurrence. In the immediate neighbourhood is
the house of Gortuleg which, in 1745, was the pro-
perty of the chamberlain and agent of Lord Lovat.
Old Lovat himself resided at Gortuleg at this inter-
esting time ; and hence we may suppose took place
this accumulation of fire-arms which were after-
wards thrown into the loch when the battle of Cul-
loden had decided the fate of the Jacobites."
FAEEEE (The), one of the forming-streams of
the river Beauly in Inverness-shire. It rises in
Loch Monar, on the north-west point of the county,
and flows eastward through Glen-Farrer until it
joins the Glass, the other main forming-stream of
the Beauly, near Erchless castle. A little above
the junction of the two streams, nearly opposite
Struey, 10 miles from Beauly, there is a fine bridge
across the Farrer, by which the road from Beauly
is carried into Strathglass. There is a black-lead
mine in Glen-Farrer, of which the following ac-
count is given in The New Philosophical Journal:
" Nearly opposite to Struey, beautiful veins of red
granite are to be seen traversing the gneiss strata,
which range from north-east to south-east, and dip
to the south, and generally at a pretty high angle.
The glen to the black-lead mine, appears — as far as
we had an opportunity of examining it, in our ra-
pid journey — to be principally composed of gneiss,
which frequently, when the quartz predominates,
passes into mica-slate. The rock in which the
graphite or black-lead occurs is gneiss, in which the
direction is a little to the east of north, and dip
west 80°. The gneiss in some places is very mica-
ceous, contains garnets, and here and there is tra-
versed by veins of granite. The graphite is not in
beds or veins, but in masses imbedded in the gneiss.
The first mass, or bed, as it is called, is fully three
feet thick where broadest. The whole mass ap-
peared to be scaly foliated; no regular crystals were
observed."
FASKINE, an estate and a village, in the parish
of Old Monkland, Lanarkshire. A coal and iron-
stone mine here is the oldest of the numerous works
of their class in this eminently rich district of the
Clydesdale mineral field. Population of the village,
408. Houses, 74.
FASNACLOICH, a post-office station, subordi-
nate to Bunawe, Argyleshire.
. FASNAKYLE, a hamlet in the parish of Kil-
morack, Inverness-shire. It stands in Strathglass,
nearly opposite Invercannich. Here are an old
chapel and burying-ground ; and in the vicinity are
Fasnakyle-house and a neat modern Roman Catho-
lic chapel, — the latter embosomed among weeping
birches.
FASNEY WATER, a streamlet of the Lammer-
raoors. It runs about 6 miles eastward, along the
southern border of Haddingtonshire, chiefly within
the parish of Whittingham, to a confluence with
the nascent Whitadder. It possesses great interest
to geologists for exposing a fine section of the Lam-
mermoor rocks.
FASQUE, an estate on the north-east border of
the parish of Fettercairn, about 1J mile north by
west of the village of Fettercairn, Kincardineshire.
The mansion was erected in 1809 by Sir Alexander
Ramsay of Balmain. It is a large castellated edi-
fice, commanding an extensive view ; and the poli-
cies around it are extensive, and contains a lake of
20 acres. There is at Fasque an Episcopalian cha-
pel, with an attendance of about 5U.
FAST CASTLE, a relic of feudal ages, situated
on a peninsulated rock of 70 feet in height, which
overhangs the German ocean, near St, Abb's Head.
FENTON.
Gil
FERGUS.
courteously invited his Majesty to take the apple,
and the King, amused with the conceit, put forth
his hand and did so, when instantly he was
pierced with arrows, and mortally wounded. He
was shortly after found by his attendants, who,
coming for their royal master, could not gain ad-
mittance to the castle, whence the assassin had
already fled; and "having brak the dure, fund him
bullerand in his blude."
FENTON, a village in the parish of Dirleton, If
mile north of Drem, Haddingtonshire. There are
near it several other places of the same name, —
such as East Fenton, Fenton-barns, and Fenton-
tower. Population, 201. Houses, 44.
FENWICK, a parish, containing a post-office
station of its own name, and the villages of Kirk-
town of Fenwick, Upper-Fenwick, and Rose-Fen-
wick, in Cunningham, Ayrshire. It is bounded on
the north by Renfrewshire ; on the east by Loudon ;
on the south by Kilmarnock; and on the west by
Stewarton. It is about 9 miles long from east to
west, and 6 miles broad, and contains an area of
14,500 acres. Though high above the level of the
sea, it is not mountainous; and seen from the hills
of Craigie in Kyle, it appears a large plain; but it
possesses, in reality, a sloping surface, inclining
easily from its boundary with Renfrewshire to the
south-west, and commanding on many spots, or
from almost every farm and every house, extensire
views toward Kyle and Carrick, the frith of Clyde,
and the Arran and Argyleshire mountains. At a
former period the district was almost all a fen or
bog; and, in 1642 — when it was disjoined from Kil-
marnock, and erected into a separate parish — was
considered as a moorland region. Except in the
southern or lower division, the soil in every part is
still mossy ; and nearly one-fifth of the entire parish
continues to be bog. All the surface of the re-
claimed sections, though thinly sheltered with
plantation, has a verdant and cultivated aspect, and
is distributed chiefly into meadow and natural pas-
ture, with about 8,000 acres of tillage. The climate,
though humid, is not unhealthy. Two small brooks,
each having tiny tributaries, rise in the northern
limits of the parish and flow south-westward
through it to make a confluence after entering the
parish of Kilmarnock. The brooks abound with
trout, and not destitute of scenic beauties. A thin
seam of coal and a freestone quarry occur on
the western limits. Lime-stone is abundant, and
exhibits numerous fossils. Good seams of ironstone,
together with coal and lime-stone, occur on the
estate of Rowallau. The great road from Glasgow
to Kilmarnock traverses the parish in a direction
west of south, and sends off one branch-road south-
ward to Galston, and another westward to Stewar-
ton. The village of Kiiktown of Fenwick stands
on the right bank of the Fenwick water; and
Upper-Fenwick, a pleasant modem village, stands
on the Glasgow road, nearly 4 miles north by east
from Kilmarnock. Rose - Fenwick, also called
Laightown, stands about half a mile south-west of
this; and is a considerable assemblage of small
houses occupied almost all by weavers as dwelling-
houses and work-shops. Population of the parish
in 1831, 2,018; in 1881, 1,532. Houses, 251. As-
sessed property in 1860, £11,687.
This parish is in the presbytery of Irvine, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Earl of Glas-
gow. Stipend, £149 8s. Id.; glebe, £23. School-
master's salary, £52 10s., with from £15 to £18
fees, and about £3 other emoluments. The parish
church was built in 1643, and contains about 750
sittings. There is a Free church; and the sum
raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £1S4 10s.
I.
There is an United Presbyterian church, with an
attendance of 650. There is a subscription school
at Waterside; and there are adventure schools at
Waterside, Kingswell, Rose-Fenwick, and Upper
Fenwick. The original name of the parish was
New Kilmarnock, in allusion to that from which
it was disjoined; and the present name was bor-
rowed from the site of the church, and signifies
the village of the fen. This parish is celebrated for
having enjoyed the ministry of the devout though
eccentric Guthrie, not the least of Scotland's
worthies, a firm assertor of the cause of Presby-
terianism under the persecuting innovations of the
Stuarts, and the author of writings which have shed
the light of heaven over the hearts and minds of the
inmates of many a cottage. In this parish is the
venerable dwelling of the Howies of Lochgoin, that
during the persecution frequently afforded an asylum
to those who for conscience' sake were obliged to
flee from their homes, — to such men as Captain
Paton, and to many such ministers as the intrepid
Donald Cargill, which rendered this house so ob-
noxious that, during these trying periods, it was
twelve times plundered, and the inmates forced to
take refuge in the barren moors around. Here are
preserved many of the relies of those days of " fiery
trial," — such as the Bible and the sword used by
Captain Paton, — the flag of Fenwick parish, — tho
drum beat at the battle of Drumclog, &c. If an-
tiquity can add any lustre to birth, the present
generation of the Howies may lay claim to a remote
ancestry; being descended from the great Walden-
ses, three brothers of whom, of the name of Howie
— probably Horn/, still common in France — fled for
safety and settled in Ayrshire, in 1178. One of
these brothers took up his residence in Lochgoin,
and his posterity to this day inhabit the same spot,
retaining all the primitive and pastoral habits which
distinguished the Waldenses. The father of the
present generation, John Howie, compiler of the
lives of the ' Scots Worthies,' will be remembered
by every Scotsman with a peculiar interest, in hav-
ing famished his country with short though valu ■
able sketches of the most remarkable transactions
of those who suffered for the covenanted work oi
reformation.
FENZIES (Loch). See Lethekdy.
FEOCH (The). See Dhuisk (The).
FEOCHAN. See Feachan.
FERDUN (The), a streamlet of Kincardineshire,
principally of the parish of Fordoun. It is formed
by two bums which descend from the Grampians
and unite at Clattering-Briggs; and it runs in a
southerly direction, past the west side of Strath -
fenella hill, and on to a junction with the Luther
below Thornton.
FERGUS (Loch). See Aye.
FERGUS (St.), a parish, containing a post-office
village of its own name, also the village of Inver-
ugie, on the coast of Buchan. It is bounded by the
German ocean, and by the parishes of Peterhead,
Longside, and Crimond. It thus lies on the Aber-
deenshire sea-board, at a distance of at least 14 miles
from the nearest boundary-point of that county •
and yet it belongs politically to Banffshire, — "to
which it was annexed at a very early period by an
act of the legislature obtained through the influence
of the Cheynes, the ancient proprietors, who, being
the hereditary sheriffs of Banff, were naturally very
desirous to have their own domains placed under
their own jurisdiction." Except, however, for the
purposes of the Census and the purposes of taxation,
it is, in all respects, practically treated as an Aber-
deenshire parish. Its greatest length, south-east-
ward, is 5 J miles; its greatest breadth 3i miles
2s
FERGUS.
(542
FERGUS.
and its area is about 12 square miles. The river
Ugie traces all the southern boundary. The par-
ochial surface exhibits an alternate and beautiful
succession of rising grounds and valleys; but there
is no hill, except a small eminence in the vicinity
of Inverugie castle. The lower grounds near the
sea are flat, and bordered, seaward, by a natural
rampart of clay and sand-hills, carefully fixed with
bent, which protects the land, in the interior, from
the blowing of the sand. Extending along the
coast for several miles, but of unequal breadth,
within this ridge, is ground called the Links of St.
Fergus, constituting, probably, one of the most
pleasant plains in Scotland, and producing — from
its wild thyme, white clover, and short grass, it is
thought — mutton of peculiar delicacy and fineness
of flavour. Along the shore, which is low and
sandy, is an inexhaustible quantity of shells, which
have been advantageously used as manure. The
soil of the sea-board dictrict is sandy loam and
moss; of the middle district, strong adhesive clay;
and of the western district, reclaimed moor and
moss. The New Statistical Account distributes the
entire area into 5,048 acres of arable land, 208 of
pasture on farms, 26 of woodland, 563 of moss, 40
of partially improved moss, and 215 of links, bents,
and stances of houses. The principal landowner
is Ferguson of Pitfour. The real rental is about
£5,720. Assessed property in 1860, £7,082. Yearly
value of raw produce, as estimated in 1840, £17,207.
The salmon fishery on the Ugie was formerly good,
but has been much injured by a sand-bar at the
mouth of the river, and has of late been let at only
£45 a-year. There are three corn-mills in the
parish. The road from Peterhead to Fraserburgh
passes along the sea-board district. The village of
St. Fergus stands on that road, 5 miles north-north-
west of Peterhead. Population of the parish in
1831, 1,334; in 1861, 1,608. Houses, 307.
On a bend of the Ugie stands the castle of Inver-
ugie, now in ruins. Within a few paces of the wall
of the north court are the ruins of an old ice-house,
probably the first of its kind in Scotland. This
castle was the ancient seat of the family of Cheyne ;
and the most ancient portion of the ruins has, from
time immemorial, been called Cheyne's tower. It is
probable, however, that the principal part of the edi-
fice— which appears to have been a very noble one —
was erected by the great family of the Earls Maris-
chal of Scotland ; especially by George, Earl Maris-
chal, the founder of Marischal college, Aberdeen,
whose chief and principal residence, Inverugie
castle, became the seat of the Cheynes, by the in-
termarriage of one of his family with that of the
Cheynes. At what particular period the Cheynes
became proprietors of this parish, is not certainly
known ; but it would appear, that they were in
possession of this estate before the Cumines suc-
ceeded to the earldom of Buchan. Sir Reginald
Cheyne of Inverugie was the founder of the
Carmelites' house in Aberdeen ; and, besides other
revenues, bestowed upon it 40s. yearly out of his
lands of Blackwater, in this parish. By his wife, a
daughter of Cumine, Lord Badenoch, he had two
sons; Sir Reginald, who, in 1267, was promoted to
the office of Lord Chamberlain of Scotland, and
Henry Cheyne, who was elected bishop of Aberdeen
in 1281. He was one of those who swore fealty to
Edward, anno 1296. As he was nearly related
to the Cumines, he adhered to that party, and was
obliged to leave this country, and take refuge in
England, where he remained in exile until King
Robert was pleased to recall him. He was so
happy in being allowed to resume his functions,
that he applied all the revenues of the see — which,
during his absence had increased to a very consi
derable sum — in building the bridge over the Don
at Aberdeen. He died anno 1329, having been
bishop of Aberdeen 48 years. The direct male line
of the Cheynes of Inverugie failed in the reign of
David II., and the parish of St. Fergus, with the
other estates belonging to the family, fell to two
heiresses, the eldest of whom, Mariotha Cheyne,
married John Keith of Ravenscraig, second sou of
Sir Edward Keith, Marischal of Scotland, who in
her right became proprietor of this parish about the
year 1360. The direct male line of John Keith
failed in the person of Sir William Keith of Inver-
ugie, who fell in the battle of Flodden. He left
two daughters, the eldest of whom was married to
William, the 4th Earl Marischal, some time before
1538. By this marriage Earl Marischal became
proprietor of St. Fergus. He was possessed of one
of the greatest land-estates at that time in Scotland.
In the years 1530 and 1540, he got charters on
many lands lying in the counties of Caithness,
Inverness, Moray, Banff, Aberdeen, Kincardine,
Angus, Fife, Linlithgow, &c. It is said that after
Queen Mary's captivity he took no concern in
public affairs, and by living a retired life in his
castle of Dunnottar, he got the name of William in
the Tower. He so much improved his estate, that
at his death it was reckoned worth 270,000 merks
Scots, or £14,208 6s. 8d. sterling. This estate was
so situated, that in travelling from the north point
of Caithness to the borders of England, he could
sleep every night on his own ground. This Earl
was a zealous promoter of the Reformation, but
opposed all violent proceedings in it. He died in an
advanced age in 1581, and was succeeded by his
grandson George, the 5th Earl Marischal, one of the
most eminent men of his time. After having
studied at Geneva, under the famous Theodore
Beza, he travelled through Italy and Germany,
where he visited the Landgrave of Hesse, Prince of
the Catti, who understanding who he was, received
him kindly, and treated him with great magnifi-
cence, as a Scotch descendant of the ancient Catti.
In 1589 he was sent ambassador- extraordinary
to the court of Denmark, to espouse the Princess
Anne in the name of James VI. of Scotland, and I.
of England. Being possessed of a great estate, he
appeared with all the magnificence with which the
wealth of Scotland could adorn him, and that chiefly
on his own expenses. In 1593, he made the noble
foundation of the Marischal college, and obtained
from the Crown, for the support of it, the lands and
houses belonging to some of the religious at Aber-
deen, which had not been feued off before the Re-
formation. Inverugie continued to be the residence
of the succeeding proprietors, until the attainder of
George Earl Marischal, who engaged in the rebellion
of 1715; when it escheated to the Crown, by whom
it was afterwards sold and again purchased by
George Earl Marischal, a son of the attainted Earl,
in 1761. It was again sold by him, however, in
1764, to James Ferguson, Esq., a senator of the
College of Justice, with whose family it has ever
since continued. While the great lords of Inver-
ugie were yet in all the pride of their wealth and
power, Sir Thomas Learmont, the Rhymer, is tra-
ditionally said to have fulminated the following
vaticination, from a place in the vicinity of the
castle, still called Thamas's stane :
' Inverugie by the sea,
Lordlessshiill thy hinds be.'
The parish of St. Fergus is in the synod of Abei
deen and presbytery of Deer. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £217 9s. 4d. ; glebe, £18. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50 0s. 0d., with about £30 fees, and a
FERGUSHILL.
C43
FERRY-FORT-ON-CRAIG.
share in the Dick bequest. The parish church was
built in 1763, and repaired in 1836, and contains
610 sittings. There is a Free church, and the sum
raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £125 14s.
There is a Baptist chapel with about 75 sittings.
There are five private schools, a parochial library,
and a savings' bank. This parish did not take the
name of St. Fergus till about the year 1616, but
was previously called Langley, and originally
Inverugie. One of its most distinguished natives
was Field-marshal Keith, the brother of George, last
Earl Marischal.
FERGUSHILL, a collier village in the parish of
Kilwinning, Ayrshire. It sprang up about 20 years
ago. Here is a school for the children of the col-
liers. Population, 279.
FERGUSLIE, one of the western suburbs of
Paisley, in Renfrewshire. An ancient estate of the
Bame name, now divided, belonged at one time to
the monks of Paisley. There still exist the remains
of the old castle of Ferguslie. See Paisley.
FERGUSON'S WELL. See Dumfries.
FERINTOSH, a barony, containing a post-office
station of its own name, in the vicinity of Ding-
wall, and on the south side of the river Conon and
the Cromarty frith. It is encompassed by Ross-
shire, but belongs politically to Nairnshire ; and it
forms the central district of the united parish of
Urquhart and Logie-Easter. It comprises part of
the Mullbuy, and part of the strath at that ridge's
northern base ; and commands, in many parts, most
brilliant prospects. According to a survey of it
made in 1810, it then contained 1,826 Scotch acres
of arable land, 1,610 of pasture, 1,051 of moor, 211
of woods, 11 £ of gardens and house-stances, and 16jj
of roads. But its extent of arable laud is now very
much greater; and its real rental is about £2,500.
It belongs to Forbes of Culloden. It long pos-
sessed the privilege — granted on account of services
during the rebellion of 1745 — of distilling whisky
from grain of its own growth, free of duty ; but this
privilege was withdrawn in 1785, the government
granting as a compensation for it about £20,000.
FER1STOWN, a post-office station, subordinate
to Kirkwall, Orkney.
FERN. See Fearn.
FERNELL. See Farnell.
FERNESS, or Fieesxess, a bay and a promontory
at the middle of the west side of the island of Eday,
in Orkney.
FERNIE, an estate in the parish of Monimail, 3
miles west of Cupar, Fifeshire. It appears to have
been part of the original estate of the Earls of Fife ;
and is even said by tradition, though without any
good evidence, to have been one of the fastnesses of
Macduff. The extant mansion on it, or castle, is a
building of great antiquity, and must at one time
have been a place of considerable strength ; and
was surrounded by marshy ground, which defended
it from any sudden or facile assault.
FERNIE (Easter), a village in the parish of
Monimail, Fifeshire. Population, 44. Houses, 13.
FERNIGAIR, a village in the parish of Hamilton,
Lanarkshire. Population, 74.
FERNIHIRST CASTLE, a seat of the ancient
family of Ker, on the right bank of the Jed, 2 miles
south of Jedburgh, Roxburghshire. It was built in
1598, and has received some modern additions and
alterations ; and it has a weather-worn but serene
appearance, amid beautiful woodland scenery. It
stands on the site of a predecessor, the stronghold
of the ancestors of the Marquis of Lothian. In
1523 the original castle was captured by Surrey; in
1549, it was, after a severe struggle, retaken by the
Scots, with the aid of French auxiliaries, then sta-
tioned at Jedburgh ; in 1569, it sheltered the Earl
of Westmoreland from the vengeance of Elizabeth ;
and in 1570, in revenge of an incursion which its
chief and other border leaders made into Northum-
berland, it was captured and demolished by the
Earl of Sussex and Sir John Foster. In the near
vicinity are vestiges of some ancient camps.
FERXTOWER. See Crieff.
FERNYHOLE. See Eddlestone.
FERRINTOSH. See Ferintosh.
FERRY (East and West). See Brought? Ferey.
FERRY (Little and Meikle). See Dobnocii
Frith.
FERRYDEN, a fishing village, with a post-office,
on the estate of Rossie, in the parish of Craig, For-
farshire. It stands on the left bank of the South
Esk, opposite Montrose, about J of a mile from the
sea; and, but for the width and rapidity of the in-
tervening stream, and circuitousness of communi-
cation by the bridge, it would be strictly a suburb
of Montrose. It formerly was the ferry-post which
connected that burgh and the great northern road
with the south of Scotland ; and it suffered con-
siderable temporary declension when the ferry
was superseded by the line of spacious bridges
higher up the river. The village is now important,
partly for supplying hands to the vessels belonging
to the port of Montrose, but chiefly for its very ex-
tensive and productive fishery. Six-sevenths of its
population are wholly employed in fishing, and
have about 25 boats, each carrying 6 men, besides
a number of smaller boats. Women and children,
as well as men, work hard to raise the productive-
ness and the opulence of the place; the females
gatheringbait in the lagoon of Montrose, carrying fish
to the market of the burgh, and in general possess-
ing that hardiness of character for which their class
are so remarkable in the fishing-villages of New-
haven and Fisherrow on the Forth. Fish-cadgers
from the adjacent districts, and from Brechin, For-
far, Coupar-Angus, Dundee, and Perth, used to re-
sort at all times of the year to Ferryden for loads of
fish. The fishery is richly abundant, and sometimes
supplies most of the boats of the village, after 10 or
12 hours' labour, with freights nearly as heavy as
they can carry, and simultaneously, or in the same
day, brought into the port. Haddocks are very
plentiful and good ten months in the year. Fish of
all kinds are now salted or " smoked," and exten-
sively exported by fish-curers in Montrose to the
markets of the south. There is also a productive
salmon fishery in the South Esk and along the coast.
The Free church of the parish and three endowed
schools are situated in Ferryden. Two of the
schools, male and female, are supported by the pro-
prietor of Rossie, and one, an infant school, is sup-
ported by a bequest of the late Miss Ross. The fish-
ing portion of the population are a muscular, weather-
beaten race; but they are gradually approaching in
manners and dress to the dwellers in the burgh of
the opposite shore. Ferryden is the birth-plaee of
the late Joseph Hume, Esq., M.P. or at least of his
paternal ancestors. Population, in 1861, 1,113.
FERRYFIELD. See Bolton.
FERRYHILL. See Deeside Railway.
FERRYHILL, a peninsula in the parish of In-
verkeithing, Fifeshire. It bears on its point the
village of North Queensferry, has a somewhat cir-
cular outline of about a mile in diameter, and is
connected with the mainland by an isthmus of
about 300 yards in breadth.
FERRY-PORT-ON-CRAIG, a parish, containing
a post-town of its own name, in the extreme north-
east of Fifeshire. It is bounded by the German
ocean, the frith of Tay, and the parishes of Forgan
FERRY-PORT-ON-CRAIG.
644
FETLAR.
and Leuchars. Its length south-eastward is4miles;
and its breadth varies from J a mile to 1| mile.
The narrowest part is near the middle, a little
south-east of the town. The north-western district
is rocky and comparatively high ; but the south-
eastern district is low and flat. The shore westward
of the town is rocky and irregular, but eastward to
the mouth of the Tay is flat and for the most part
sandy, with a large extent of sleech at low water.
In the north -western district, the soil is a black loam,
on a bottom of whinstone rock, and produces excel-
lent crops of all kinds. Towards the east it is sandy,
with light loam in some places on a bottom of sand,
which yields good crops of oats and barley. At
the south-eastern extremity, there is a considerable
extent of links, which afford pasturage for sheep and
cattle, and are besides stocked with rabbits. There
are altogether about 1,350 acres in regular cultiva-
tion. The annual value of real property assessed,
in 1866, was £5,972 12s. 9d. The real rent is about
£2,500. The valued rent is £2,183 Scotch. There
is an extensive salmon-fishery extending along the
whole shore of the parish, which is in the hands of
the proprietor. The net and coble are now alone
used ; but formerly, when stake-nets were used, the
rent was sometime's as high as £2,000 per annum.
The average gross yearly value of all sorts of raw
produce of the parish was estimated in 1836 at
£6,410. The Dundee fork of the Edinburgh, Perth,
and Dundee railway, crosses the parish and has its
ferry-station at the town. Two lighthouses on the
shore to the west of the town serve with those on
the opposite part of the coast in Forfarshire to guide
the night navigation of the mouth of the frith. The
whole of the parish is comprised in the estate of
Scotscraig; and the mansion of the proprietor, a
large substantial edifice built in 1807, stands amid
pleasant enclosures on the north-west border. This
estate at an early period belonged to the bishops of
St. Andrews, by one of whom it was feued during
the reign of Alexander II. to Sir Michael Scott of
Balwearie, the father of the famed Sir Michael
Scott, with whose descendants the lands for some
time continued. It was in consequence of this that
they came to be denominated Scotscraig. From
the family of Scott, Scotscraig came by purchase to
Dury of that ilk, from whom it passed to the Ram-
says, ancestors of the Marquis of Dalhousie. It
afterwards became the property of a family of the
name of Buchanan, from whom it came to a family
named Erskine. During the reign of Charles II.
the whole estate became the property of Archbishop
Sharp, from whose successors it was purchased by
Mr. Alexander Colville, the representative of the
Lords Colville of Culross. From this family the
lands were afterwards purchased by the Rev. Robert
Dagleish, D.D., who was minister and proprietor
of the whole parish. The present proprietor is
Captain W. M. H. Dougal. Population of the par-
ish in 1831, 1,680; in 1861, 2,013. Houses, 373.
This parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrews,
and synod of Fife. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£159 13s. Id; glebe, £50. Schoolmaster's salary,
£45, with £22 fees, and about £12 other emolu-
ments. The parish church is a neat substantial
edifice, built in 1825, and containing about 850 sit-
tings. There are a Free church, an United Pres-
byterian church, and a Baptist chapel. The sum
raised in connexion with the Free church in 1865
was £263 6s. There are two private schools, a female
boarding school, and a savings' bank. Ferry- Port-
on-Craig was erected into a separate parish in the
year 1606; and it is supposed to have previously
formed part of the parish of Leuchars. Its name is
derived from the original ferry at the town, which
was conducted from the point of a rock oi
" craig."
The Town of Ferry-Port-on-Craig is now veiy
generally called Tatport, — a name which it began
to assume after the formation of the Edinburgh,
Perth, and Dundee railway ; but it still retains its'
old name in the Census and Post-office lists. It
stands close to the shore, 3| miles in a straight line
from Dundee, 5 north of Leuchars, and 44 by rail-
way north-north-east of Edinburgh. Here are the
churches and schools of the parish, a fine sea-bathing
accommodation, and a large saw-mill. Many of the
inhabitants are handloom weavers. A fair is held on
the first Tuesday of June, old style, but it is of very
trivial consequence. The town has long been of some
note for its ferry ; and it received a great increase of
this by the formation of the Edinburgh, Perth, and
Dundee railway. Great works were constructed
here in order to render the railway's communication
with Broughty-Ferry, on the opposite shore, effec-
tive and easy. A deep-water basin of large capacity
was excavated ; an exterior mole or breastwork was
raised, with great skill and at vast expense, to shel-
ter the basin from the east and north winds ; an in-
terior breastwork or landing-slip, about 600 feet long
and 30 feet deep, divided into two inclined planes,
with rails on them, was constructed for ready con-
veyance of the carriages to the steamers' decks at
all states of the tide ; and a quay-wall, about 200
feet long, was built at the eastern end of the basin,
to facilitate embarkation and debarkation, in even
the most unfavourable circumstances of tide and
weather. The harbour thus comprises a completely
protected floating basin, fully 600 feet in length by
200 of average breadth, with a depth of 28 feet of
water at full spring tides, and not less than 8 feet
at the lowest tides. The amplest communications
are enjoyed by the townspeople to the south by rail-
way, and to Broughty-Ferry and Dundee by steam-
ers. The town is lighted with gas. Population in
1831, 1,538; in 1861,1,773.
FERRYTOWN-OF-CREE. See Creetown.
FERSNESS. See Ferness.
FESHIE, a stream of Badenoch, in Inverness-
shire. It rises near Cairncilar in Mar, flows first
north-east, and then bends suddenly north-west to
the eastern base of Cairn-dearg-mhore, where it
strikes north, and pursuing a northerly course falls
into the Spey near the church of Alvie. It flows
through a picturesque district.
FETHELAND. See Northmaven.
FETHERAY. See Fiddrie.
FETLAR, one of the northerly Shetland islands.
It lies 3 miles east of Yell and 4 miles south of
Unst. It is about 7 miles in length, and 3J in
breadth. It contains about 12,000 acres, with a
tolerably fertile soil of loam and sand ; but there is
neither tree nor shrub to be seen upon it. There is
a considerable quantity of that species of iron-stone
called bog-ore, of a very rich quality ; there are also
some veins of copper ore. The coast-line of this
island is very irregular and of great extent, being
much indented by bays and marine inlets. Funzie
is a ling-fishing station ; Urie bay has a kind of
pier; and Mowick is a small harbour whence peats
are exported. The surface of the island comprises
several hills and valleys, but does not anywhere rise
higher than about 300 feet above sea-level. Popu-
lation in 1841, 761 ; in 1861, 548. Houses, 104.
FETLAR and NORTH YELL, an united parish
in the north of Shetland. Its post-town is Lerwick.
Fetlar comprises the island described in the preced-
ing article ; and North Yell comprises the northern
part of the island of Yell, which will be described
in the article Yell. The chief landowners are the
FETTERANGUS.
645
FETTERESSO.
Earl of Zetland and Sir Arthur Nicholson, Bart., —
the latter of whom has a seat in Fctlar ; but there
are about twenty-six others. Assessed property in
1860, £1,375. Population in 1831, 1,680; in 1861,
1,480. Houses, 292.
This parish is in the presbytery of Burravoe, and
synod of Shetland. Patron, the Earl of Zetland.
Stipend, £180; glebe, £9. The minister officiates
on alternate Sabbaths in Fetlar and in North Yell.
The church of Fetlar was built in 1790, and con-
tains 267 sittings. The church of North Yell was
built in 1832, and contains 327 sittings. There is
in Fetlar a Free church preaching station; attend-
ance, 200; sum raised in 1865, £49. There is also
in Fetlar a small Methodist chapel. The parish
school is in North Yell. Schoolmaster's salary,
£35 15s., with about £8 fees. There are in Fet-
lar a Society's school, two private schools, and a
parochial library.
FETTER-, a prefix in some Celtic names of places,
— signifying a pass or a ravine.
FETTERANGUS, a post-office village in the
Banffshire section of the parish of Old Deer. It
stands near the right bank of the Ugie, 2 miles
north-north-west of Mintlaw, and 4 south-east of
Strichen. It is on the property of Ferguson of Pit-
four. Most of its inhabitants are employed in the
manufacture of linen yarn. Population, 345.
FETTERCAIRN, a parish, containing a post-
office village of its own name, on the south-western
border of Kincardineshire. It is bounded by For-
farshire, and by the parishes of Edzell, Strachan,
Fordoun, and Marykirk. Its length southward is
8 miles ; and its greatest breadth is 4J. It com-
mences on the north, in a part of the lower Gram-
pians, whose utmost altitude above sea-level is about
1,600 feet; and it descends to a long sweep along
the North Esk, and considerably into the How of
Mearns. The New Statistical Account distributes
the whole area into 7,490 imperial acres of arable
land, 349 of moss or waste which might be profita-
bly reclaimed, 1,780 of woodland, and 3,573 of
waste or pasture. The ground in the west is light
and sharp, with a small mixture of moss ; but in
the east it becomes deeper, consisting of a fertile
clayey loam. Cultivation is in a highly advanced
state ; and enclosures are done with hedge and
ditch, or with stone fences. There are eight prin-
cipal landowners. The real rental is about £8,230.
Assessed property in 1866, £10,695 10s. 5d. Yearly
value of raw produce, about £15,500. A principal
mansion is Burn-house, built by Lord Adam Gor-
don in 1791, and situated amid beautiful grounds.
Other interesting objects will be found noticed in
the articles Fasque and Fenella's Castle. The
North Esk traces 6} miles of the boundary with
Forfarshire. There are also several rivulets, but
none of any importance. On the bank of one, run-
ning past Balnakettle, very fine porcelain clay is
quarried. Limestone, red freestone, and slaty rock
are also found. A romantic bridge, called Gan-
nachy bridge, consisting of one arch, 52 feet in
width, was thrown over the North Esk, in 1732,
and widened, in 1796, at the private expense of
Lord Adam Gordon and Lord Panmure. Its foun-
dations stand on two stupendous rocks, elevated to
a great height above the surface of the river. Most
of the farms of this parish have thrashing mills.
At Amhall there is a small establishment for card-
ing and manufacturing wool into coarse cloth ; and
at Nethermill, near the village of Fettercaim, is a
distillery. The parish is not traversed by any turn-
jike road, hut has good commutation roads, and
ies within a few miles of the Marykirk and Lau-
rencekirk stations of the Aberdeen railway. Popu-
6
lation in 1831, 1,637 ; in 1861, 1,700. Houses, 367
This parish is in the presbytery of Fordoun, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £240 6s. 8d. ; glebe, £20. Unappropriated
teinds, £145 6s. 6d. Schoolmaster's salary, £60, be-
sides fees and other emoluments valued at £45. The
parish church was built in 1804, and contains 800
sittings. There is a Free church ; whose receipts
in 1865 amounted to £110 10s. ljd. There is a
handsome Episcopalian chapel at Fasque, erected
recently by Sir John Gladstone, Bart. There are
five non-parochial schools. — two of which, as also
an almshouse for eight aged persons, were founded
and endowed by Sir John Gladstone.
The Village of Fettekcaien stands on the east-
ern verge of the parish, on a small affluent of the
North Esk, 4J miles west by north of Laurence-
kirk, and 12 north-west of Montrose. It is a burgh
of barony on the estate of Fettercairn. This estate
was anciently called Middleton, and belonged so
early as the reign of Alexander III. to the family
of that name, who became ennobled in the reign of
Charles II. by the titles of Earl of Middleton and
Viscount Fettercairn ; and, though for some time
alienated from that family, it became re-possessed
by them, and continued to be theirs till the year
1777. It is now the property of Sir John S. For-
bes, Bart. The mansion, comprising a structure
built in 1666 by John Earl of Middleton, and a
tasteful addition built a few years ago by the pre-
sent proprietor, stands a brief distance north by
east of the village. An octagonal pillar, with a
capital bearing the insignia of the Earl of Middle-
ton, stands in the village, surmounting a circular
mass of masonry, in the form of a flight of steps.
This pillar is believed to have been the cross of the
extinct town of Kincardine, and bears the date of
1 670. On one side is an iron rivet to which the old
Scottish tool of punishment, the jougs, appears to
have been suspended. The village has a gas-work,
two inns, four insurance offices, an office of the
North of Scotland bank, a savings' bank, and two
public libraries. It is also the seat of an agricul-
tural club for the south-western division of the
county. Population in 1841, 280; in 1851, 284;
in 1861, 339.
FETTERESSO, a parish, containing the post-
office station of Muchalls, and the northern division
of the post-town of Stonehaven, on the coast of Kin-
cardineshire. It is bounded by the sea, and by
Dunnottar, Glenbervie, Durris, Maryculter, and
Banchory-Devenick. Its length south-westward is
about 1 0 miles ; and its breadth is between 5 and 6
miles. The river Carron flows on the southern
boundary ; and the Cowie Water, the Muchalls-
burn, and the Elsick-burn, which all run indepen-
dently to the sea, drain the greater part of the in-
terior. " The surface of the parish is irregular, but
not mountainous — presenting a landscape, varying
from the most pleasing to the most bleak. The
new town of Stonehaven, the banks of the Carron
and Cowie, through the whole of their course, the
grounds adjoining Fetteresso Castle, Ury, Rickar-
ton, and Netherly, may be considered as belonging
to the former. Nor is there wanting at Elsick, Much-
alls, and Cowie, and in the bold rocky coast, much
that is also pleasing to the eye. Most of the other
districts, particularly the great common of Cowie,
in the centre of the parish, are bleak, even where
cultivation is carried on upon a regular and im-
proved system. But there is in some districts great
want of wood and enclosures, and of course of shel-
ter; and much mossy, wet, and bleak land." The
total extent of plantation is about 2,000 acres.
There are several extensive landowners, also scv-
FEUGH.
646
FIFESHIKE.
eral smaller ones. The total real land rental is about
£16,800. Assessed property in 1866, £25,710 15s. 9d.
The principal mansions are Fetteresso-castle, a large
pile, partly ancient, and partly modern, in a fine
park on the Carron; Ury-house, at present being re-
built on the Cowie; Bickarton-house, about a mile
west of the preceding ; and Muchalls-house, an old
pile on a rising ground near the sea, about 4 miles
from Stonehaven. There are also the mansions of
Elsick, Netherby, Cowie, Berryhill, and Newhall.
There are three fishing stations respectively at
Cowie, Sketraw, and Shanathro. There are also
several salmon-fisheries. The parish shares largely
in the manufactures and general traffic of Stone-
haven ; and it is traversed by the Aberdeen rail-
way, and has stations on it at Stonehaven and
Muchalls. On the hill called Ehi-dikes, or King's-
dykes, there are very distinct vestiges of a rectan-
gular encampment, supposed to have been Roman,
and occupied by Agricola's troops, previous to his
engagement with Galgacus, the Scottish king. On
a moor 2 miles east of the camp, are a great many
tumuli, or small cairns, and some very large ones,
which are supposed to be sepulchral monuments,
raised on the field of battle, to the memory of the
dead. The moor is called the Kemp-stane hill, and
on each side is a morass. In almost every part of
the parish, remains of Dmidical temples have been
met with, but some of them have been demolished
by the farmers. On the coast, about 1J mile north
of Stonehaven, are the remains of a castle, the an-
cient residence of the Thanes of Cowie or Mearns ;
and, on a rising ground, near the Thane's castle,
there was formerly a place of worship, the gables
and part of the walls of which are still standing.
Adjoining is a burying-ground, enclosed with stone
walls, where many of the inhabitants, especially in
the northern parts of the parish, still continue, on
account of its vicinity, to bury their dead. Pop-
ulation in 1831, 5,109; in 1861, 5,527. Houses,
1,035.
This parish is in the presbytery of Fordoun, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £253 lis.; glebe, £16. Unappropriated
teinds, £322 6s. 7d. The parish church stands near
Stonehaven, was built in 1813, and contains 1,600
sittings. The ruins of the former church stand
adjacent to the southern boundary, upwards of a
mile from Stonehaven ; and an extensive burying-
ground adjoins them, and is still in use. A chapel
of ease, of somewhat recent erection, and containing
700 sittings, stands at Cockney, on the estate of
Muchalls. There is an United Presbyterian church
at Stonehaven, which was built in 1803, and con-
tains 400 sittings. There is an Episcopalian chapel
on the estate of Muchalls, which was built in 1831,
and contains 176 sittings. There are two parochial
schools, the one for the southern district, and the
other for the northern. Salary of the first master,
£50 4s. 4^d., with £20 fees ; salary of the sec-
ond, £30, with £10 fees. There are two endowed
schools, several adventure schools, a savings' bank,
and a dispensary.
FETTEENEAE. See Chafel-of-Garioch.
FEUCHAN. See Feachan.
FEUGH (The), a rivulet in the north-western
quarter of Kincardineshire, tributary to the Dee.
It rises in the forest of Birse, in Aberdeenshire, and
running eastward 8 miles, enters Kincardineshire,
where it is joined by the Aan, and soon after by
the Dye, when, continuing an easterly course for a
few miles more, it turns north, and dashes over a
ledge of rocks into the Dee. See Birse.
FEWN (Loch), a lake of about 2£ miles in
length, on the mutual boundary of Sutherlandshire
and Cromartyshire, at a point about 3J miles south
east of the village of Inver.
FIDDICH (The), or Feddich, a river in Banff-
shire, tributary to the Spey. It rises in a moun-
tainous tract between the parishes of Kirkmichael
and Mortlach, flows through the beautiful vale of
Glen Fiddich, and unites its waters with those of
the Spey, in the parish of Boharm, about a mile be
low Elchies. " Fiddichside for fertility," is a pro-
verb in the district. The stream, not reckoning
sinuosities, has altogether a run of about 14 miles ;
and it performs the first half in a north-north-
easterly direction, — the second half in variously a
westerly and a north-westerly direction.
FIDDBIE, or Fethway, a rocky islet in the frith
of Forth, opposite to Dirleton, and 4 miles from the
Bass rock. On it are the ruins of a small chapel.
FIELD-CBAIGHTON, a village in the parish of
New Kilpatrick, Dumbartonshire. Population, 69
Houses, 10.
FIEESNESS. See Ferness.
FIFE. See Fifesiiire.
FIFE-KEITH, a village in the parish of Keith,
Banffshire. It stands on the left bank of the Isla,
opposite the village of Old Keith ; and communi-
cates with that place by two bridges. It consists
of a principal street along the high road from
Aberdeen to Inverness, three other streets running
parallel north and south, a neat square in the
centre, and a handsome crescent facing the Isla.
It was begun to be built in 1817 by Lord Fife, and is
a clean, healthy place, and has a fine building
adapted for an inn ; but the whole village, commer-
cially viewed, has been an utter failure. Fairs for
cattle are held on the third Thursday of May, the
second Thursday of July, and the last Thursday of
October, all old style. Population, in 1861, 897.
FIFENESS, the easternmost point of land in
Fifeshire, which projects into the German ocean, in
North lat. 56° 17', and West long. 2° 36'. From it
a ridge of rocks, called the Carr-rocks, projects a
considerable way into the sea, rendering it very
dangerous to mariners. See Carr-rock and Crail.
The point of Fifeness is 2 miles east by north of
Crail, 5 north by east of the island of May, and 10J
south-west by west of the Bell Eock.
FIFESHIEE, or Fife, a maritime county of the
east side of Scotland, lying nearly in the middle of
the lowland region, which is bounded by the Lam-
mermoors on the south, and the Grampians on the
north. It is a peninsula, enclosed by the frith of
Tay on the north, the German ocean on the east,
and the frith of Forth on the south ; and it marches
on the west with Perthshire, Kinross-shire, and
Clackmannanshire, the second of which it almost
encloses, except on the west and north-west, where
it joins Perthshire. The western boundary — the
line of which is very irregular — extends about 23
miles from its extreme point on the Tay to the corre-
sponding southern point on the Forth. The county
gradually contracts to the east, and terminates
there in the narrow projecting headland of Fifeness,
which runs out into the German ocean, and where a
beacon has been erected for the protection of coasting
vessels. The length from east to west, along the
shore of the Forth, is 41 miles ; about the centre, in
the same direction, from St. Andrews to Loch Leven,
it is 23£ miles ; and from Ferry-Port-on-Craig to
the small stream at Mugdrum that falls into the
Tay, it is 18 miles. Its breadth across the centre,
from Balambreich point on the north to Leven on
the south, is 14 miles. The southern coast is, for
the most part, indented by small rocky bays with
corresponding projecting headlands; but along the
banks of the Tay, the grounds slope gently toward
FIFESHIRE.
647
FIFESHIRE.
the beach, and are generally cultivated to the river's
edge. Along the north-eastern shore, towards St.
Andrews, it presents one large plain, terminating in
a flat beach of sand containing a considerable quan-
tity of broken shells. The shore in this direction,
and generally onwards to Kingsbarns and Crail,
becomes extremely rocky ; the outcrop of the sand-
stone running in the form of long narrow dykes
into the sea, and rising into considerable mural
cliffs towards the land. According to Sir John
Sinclair's General Report of Scotland, the number
of cultivated acres in this county, about 50 years
ago, was 209,226, and of uncultivated, 89,604.
Playfair estimates the superficies at 500 square
miles, of which about four-fifths are arable. Mac-
culloch, in his ' Statistical Account of the British
Empire,' estimates the total area at 300,800 acres.
The Ordnance Survey determined the real area to
be 328,427 acres.
The general surfaoe partakes more of the gentle,
undulating outline of the middle districts of Eng-
land, than of those bolder and more striking aspects
of Nature which characterize the scenery of Cale-
donia. The Ochils, which skirt its northern border,
and the Lomonds, which run nearly parallel to the
Ochils, divide the county into three well-defined
districts, which — as will be afterwards described —
correspond to three equally marked subordinate
geognostic formations. These two ranges of hills —
which attain their greatest elevation towards the
west — are separated by the intervening and finely-
wooded valley of Stratheden, in the centre of which
the county-town of Cupar is beautifully situated.
The ground, on the south of the Lomonds, stretches
out in a broad uneven surface towards the Forth ;
eastwards, there rises an elevated table-land, which
forms what is characteristically termed " the Moors
of Fife," but which gradually merges in the rich
and extensive plains locally designated "the East
Neuk," comprising an extent of several parishes. —
The Ochils consist of a chain of trap-hills, extending
through a course of upwards of 50 miles, to the
vicinity of Stirling, gently rising on the south bank
of the Tay above Ferry-Port-on-Craig, to about 400
feet, and attaining at the western extremity, in
Bencleugh and Dunmyat, an elevation of nearly
3,000 feet above the level of the sea. The saddle-
shape, the round-back, and the conical peak are
severally developed in the course of this range; but
only in a few instances — as Craig-sparrow, Clatch-
art, and Craig-in-Crune — do the hills present an
abrupt, precipitous front ; so that, for the most part,
they are either cultivated to the summit, or covered
with a rich carpeting of excellent pasturage. To-
wards the south-eastern district, they break up into
several parallel ridges, or small mountain-arms —
some of them completely detached — which, with
extensive tracts of fertile corn-fields intervening,
form an extremely pleasing and diversified contour
of country. The whole is intersected by innumer-
able valleys, some of which form lateral passes into
the adjacent plains of Stratheden and Strathearn ;
and one of them, commencing near the eastern
shore, traverses the county as far as Newburgh, in
a line almost parallel with the principal chain ;
when, after a contracted course, varying from a few
hundred yards to half-a-mile in breadth, it opens
suddenly upon the extensive basin in which the
loch of Lindores is contained. A little to the west-
ward, on the verge of Strathearn, and near the
celebrated cross of Macduff, the poet thus glowingly
describes the prospect : —
" You do gaze —
Strangers are wont to do so— on the prospect.
Yon is the Tay, rolled down from Highland hills.
That rests his waves after so rude a race,
In the fair plains of Gowrie. — Further westward,
Proud Stirling rises. — Yonder to the east,
Dundee, the gift of God, and fair Montrose;
And still more northward, lie the ancient towers
OfEdzell."
Fifeshire derives great commercial facilities from
the friths of Tay and Forth upon its boundaries ; and
it has three rivers of its own which, though compara-
tively small in volume, possess considerable economi
cal value. These are the Eden, which takes its rise
near the western extremity of the county, in the
parish of Strathmiglo, and, after a course of about
24 miles through the entire extent of the valley,
falls into the sea at the Guard-bridge, near the bay
of St. Andrews ; the Leven, which issues from the
loch of the same name, and runs along the southern
escarpment of the Lomonds; and the Orr, which
rises in the south-west corner of the county, and
joins the Leven a few miles to the north of Largo
bay, into which they pour their united waters. See
articles Eden, Leven, and Okk. The portion of the
county traversed by the Orr is neither fertile nor
interesting; but the vale that is irrigated by the
Leven is extremely picturesque; the windings —
which are short, abrupt, and frequent — expose un-
expectedly to the traveller's eye scattered cottages
along the sides of the river, bleachfields, mansion-
houses, villages, and coal-works, giving to the
whole an extremely animated outline. In addition
to these rivers are certain streams, which, from the
shortness of their course, and the small quantity of
water they discharge into the sea, do not seem en-
titled to any particular notice. — The lochs connected
with the county are Loch Fitty, Loch Gelly, Loch
Leven, Loch Mill, the Black Loch, and the lochs of
Lindores and Kilconquhar ; all of which are well
stocked with pike and perch, and some of them
with excellent trout; and generally they are fre-
quented by various species of wild-fowl, while their
banks are adorned with the flowering aquatic plants.
The most striking feature of the county, both as
connected with its general contour and as connected
with the largest and finest of its lakes, is the ridge
of the Lomond hills. The eye of the painter Wil-
kie has often rested with delight upon their fine
outline — " mine own blue Lomonds," he calls them;
and seen from every spot and corner of the shire,
towering majestically above all the surrounding
heights, they unquestionably form a grand and in-
teresting object. This ridge consists of an elevated
table-land, about 4 miles in length, completely in-
sulated from the neighbouring hills, and has a gen-
tle and gradual slope towards the south, but on the
north the acclivity is precipitous and rocky, and
springs immediately from the valley of Stratheden
to the height of 800 or 900 feet. Two lofty conical
peaks surmount the extremities of the ridge, the
one rising to the additional height of 666, and the
other to about 821 feet — thus making what is termed
the East law 1,466, and the West" law 1,721 feet
above the level of the sea. Overlooking the whole
county, and the two noble estuaries by which it is
almost encompassed, with the German ocean to the
east, the towers of Stirling and " the lofty Ben-
Lomond" to the west, the rugged, serrated outline
of the Grampians to the north, and the extensive
plains of the Lothians, begirt by the Pentlands and
the Lammermoors to the south — the prospect from
either summit of these twin hills may vie with any
in the kingdom, presenting at once to the eye what-
ever is necessary to form the beautiful, the pic-
turesque, or the sublime. See Lomond Hills. Some
of the objects in the immediate vicinity give addi-
tional interest to the scene. The palace of Falk-
land, which lies at the base of the East peak, is
FIFESHIRE.
648
FIFESHIRE.
still a place of considerable attraction, and presents
no mean specimen of the architectural taste of other
days. See Falkland. Loch Leven washes the
sloping defiles of the other ; and in the middle of
this deep blue lake, may still be observed the ruins
of the castle in which the unfortunate Mary Stuart
was imprisoned by her subjects. See Leven (Loch).
The rocks of the carboniferous series, irregularly
disrupted and superseded by trap rocks, prevail in
Fifeshire from the one extremity to the other.
These, named in ascending order, are old red-sand-
stone, limestone, yellow sandstone, limestone, coal,
clay ironstone, bituminous shale, slate clay, and
sandstone. The old red-sandstone rocks are of
comparatively limited extent, and are almost exclu-
sively confined to the northern division. Some very
interesting sections of the yellow sandstone, along
with strata of the coal-field, may be observed in
Dura-Den. The mountain limestone forms a kind
of crescent around the out-crop of the coal-field,
ranging from the south-west extremity of the coun-
ty at Broom-hall, and passing through the parish of
Cleish towards the Lomonds, where it attains an
elevation of 1,100 feet above the level of the sea.
Its course towards the east is by Forther, Cults,
Ceres, Ladadda, and Mount Melville ; and, after a
considerable interruption here, it emerges at Ran-
derston in the parish of Kingsbarns, on the south-
east confines of the county. It may be considered
also as occupying much of the district intermediate
between the line now indicated and the Forth ; al-
though it has only been brought to the surface, and
rendered available for practical purposes, in a few
localities along the southern shore, as at Seafield,
Tyrie, Innertiel, Raith, Chapel, and Pittenweem.
This limestone, however, is not to be confounded
with another of more limited extent, included among
the coal strata, and which, for the sake of distinc-
tion, has been termed the upper limestone. From
Pettycur to Inverkeitbing, the stratified rocks are
much intersected and disturbed by those of an ig-
neous origin. The limestone, shale, and sandstone
also abound with organic remains, many of which
are rare, peculiar, or otherwise remarkable. Hence
does tins district possess interest of no common de-
gree for students of geology.
The coals of Fifeshire are distinguished by the
proportion of bitumen which they yield. Two va-
rieties occur, — the common or caking-coal, which
yields about 40 per cent, of bitumen, and emits a
considerable quantity of smoke in burning ; and the
parrot or cannel-coal, which affords about 20 per
cent, of bitumen. The former has a splintery, im-
perfect conchoidal fracture, and swells in burning ;
the latter bums with a bright flame, and, generally,
during combustion, decrepitates and flies into small
angular fragments. No coal has yet been found to
the north of the Lomonds and the Drumcarro hills ;
but towards the south and the west, it is most abun-
dantly distributed, sometimes in basins of inconsi-
derable extent, and sometimes in outstretching con-
tinuous beds of indefinite dimensions. There are
coal-works at Tony, Blair, Elgin, Wellwood, Protis,
Hallbeath, Crossgates, Fordel, Donibristle, Dundon-
ald, Keltie, Beath, Eashes, Lochgelly, Kippledrae,
Oluny, Dunnikier, Dysart, Orr-Bridge, Balbirnie,
Rothesfield, Wemyss, Drummochy, Lundin Mill,
Grange, Rires, Balcarres, St. Monance, Pittenweem,
Kellie, Gilmerton, Largoward, Bungs, Fallfield,
Lathockar, Cairlhurlie, Teasess, Ceres, Drumcarro,
Kilmux, Carriston, Clatto, and Burnturk; and in
these upwards of 2,500 men and boys are employed.
The breadth of the coal country is from 6 to 9 miles ;
and the length of it from Torry to Pittenweem is
35 miles , and from lilairadam to Drumcarro, along
the line of the northern limit, 22 miles. It thus oc-
cupies an area of rather more than 200 square
miles. Beds of parrot or cannel-coal occur gener-
ally in the upper series of the coal deposits, at Torry,
Dysart, Fall-field, Clatto, Teasess, Burnturk, and
Kippledrae. At the latter locality there are two
seams, separated by a thin layer of shale, and whose
average thickness is about 5 feet. Besides the
parrot, a vertical section of a coal-basin frequently
exhibits upwards of twenty different seams of the
common coal ; and these seams vary from a foot to
20 feet in thickness.
Basalt occupies almost exclusively the southern
boundary of the shire, along the shores of the Forth,
where, at Queensferry, Pettycur, Orchil near Auch-
tertool, Kincraig hill, Earlsferry-point, and several
other localities to the east, it exhibits beautiful
specimens of the columnar structure, consisting of
small, sometimes of larger, pentagonal masses
jointed into one another with perfect symmetry and
order. Clinkstone generally forms the cap or high-
est portion of the Ochil ridge, but by no means
uniformly so. The Lomonds are capped with green-
stone and amygdaloid. Largo law, Hall-hill-craig,
and Craighall rock are composed of a greyish black
compact basaltic clinkstone. Between Kincraig
and Earlsferry-point, in a small bay of not more
than a mile in extent, the whole series of trappean
rocks may be observed, arranged in no systematic
order, and scarcely distinguishable at their lines of
junction with each other. In Glenfarg the prevail-
ing rocks are claystone, highly indurated and of a
variegated yellow and brownish-red colour, and
amygdaloid, extremely vesicular, having cavities
from an inch to a quarter of an inch in diameter,
filled with green earth, chalcedony, calcareous spar,
analcime, quartz, and zeolites. Veins of carbonate
of barytes and carbonate of lime traverse the hills
here in every direction, varying from an inch to
several feet in thickness, and exhibiting beautiful
specimens of crystallization.
Alluvium is confined almost to the north-west
section of the county, the valley of Stratheden, and
a few places along the banks of the Leven and Orr.
Sandrift occurs only in a small tract of sea-board
between St. Andrews and Ferry-Port-on-Craig, and
does not attain an elevation of more than 40 to 50
feet. Peat-moss exists in greater abundance, and
occupies generally the highest table-land in the
district. Brunshiels towards the east and Moss-
morran in the south-west, are the most extensive.
Mossmorran is about 1,200 acres in extent, and in
some places about 25 feet in depth. Diluvium
abounds in Stratheden. From the church of Col-
lessie to the river Eden, and through a range of
several miles to the east and west, the bottom of the
valley is filled to an unknown depth with the debris
of the old red sandstone, generally consisting of
small gravelly fragments. The high table-laud at
Mugdrum, near Newburgh, is completely covered
with diluvium, as well as the sloping ground on
which the town stands. The valley, which com-
mences at the rock of Clatchart, and stretches east-
wards, is also filled with diluvium; and to the com-
bined action of the currents which swept along the
northern and southern acclivities of the Ochils —
through the valleys of Stratheden, Lindores, and
the Tay — may be ascribed vast accumulations of
sand and gravel on the western confines of the
parishes of Leuchars and Forgan. Two interesting
examples of sub-marine forests are situated in this
deposit, the one at Largo bay, and the other at
Flisk. They are placed within the limits of the
tide, and are covered at high-water to the depth
of nearly 10 feet. They consist of the roots of
I IFESHIRE.
Gi9
FIFESIIIRE.
trees, imbedded in a peat-moss which rests upon a
bed of clay of unknown depth.
The progress of agriculture in Fife has been very
great since the end of the 18th century. About
four-fifths of the county is considered as arable
land; and it is at present under the management of
intelligent, active, and judicious agriculturists. In-
deed, the agriculture of the county is behind no
other, and far in advance of that of many of the
counties of Scotland. Previous to 1790, the farmers
generally lived in low smoky houses, badly lighted,
and having no other divisions but those made by
the large wooden bedsteads, which formed what
was called a but and a ben. The offices were then
also, as was to be expected, mean and deficient in
the extreme. The farmers of that period wanted,
in many instances, the capital, as they were de-
ficient in the intelligence and energy, to engage in
and effect profitable improvements. All this, how-
ever, is now happily altered. The agriculturists of
the present day are, with little exception, all
capitalists; and, from their more enlarged education
and higher intelligence, are enabled to adopt every
Improvement in the management of their land, and
to take advantage of every new market which the
general improvement of modern times has opened
up to them. The farm-houses are now all of a
superior description, and many of the farm-offices
are models for convenience. Drainage has been
conducted in Fife on a very extensive scale, and the
appearance of the county has, in consequence, been
greatly improved, while its productions have been
increased and benefited in quality. Several pretty
extensive lochs and marshes, which were formerly
profitless to the proprietor, have been completely
drained, and the ground they occupied put under
tillage. Furrow-draining, where thought necessary,
has been adopted, and is in many instances still ex-
tending with great advantage. The old breed of
horses, which was small and unsightly, and ill-fitted
for either draught or saddle, has almost entirely
disappeared ; and the breed of horses now used for
agricultural purposes will vie, either in power or
in appearance, with those in any county in Scotland.
The Fife breed of cattle has long been celebrated
both for feeding and for the dairy. Their prevail-
ing colour is black. They are small homed, and
easily fattened; and at Smithfield bring a higher
price than almost any other kind. In general they
weigh from 30 to 50 or 60 Dutch stones when ready
for the knife. From 10 to 14 Scotch pints of milk
per day, at the best of the season, is the ordinary
produce of a good Fife cow. For about twenty-six
weeks annually she will produce from 7 to 9 pounds
of butter each week. But the dairy is not the chief
object with the farmers of this county, excepting in
the vicinity of towns.
The cultivation of oats is more extensive in Fife
than that of any other sort of grain. Oats are
better suited both to the soil and to the climate;
and oatmeal is the principal article of food among
the middle and lower classes. Barley is cultivated
to a very considerable extent, and more so now than
at any former period. The vast number of dis-
tilleries, both here and in Perthshire and Clack-
mannanshire, insure a ready market to the grower;
and the consequent high price is a strong induce-
ment to the farmer to sow every field with barley
that will produce any thing like a crop. The long-
eared barley, with two rows, is cidtivated on all
lands which lie low and warm, and are under an
improved state of husbandly- Wheat appears to
have been anciently more generally cultivated in
Fifeshire than at a later period. In the statements
of the revenues of some of the old monasteries, it
appears that wheat was delivered as rent by the
farmers, — produced, no doubt, from lands upon
which, 00 or 70 years ago, nobody would have at-
tempted to rear a crop of that kind. During the
last 60 years, however, the cultivation of wheat has
been rapidly extending, and has uniformly kept pace
with the improvements in agriculture. Many parts
of the county are well-adapted for this valuable
grain, and crops of wheat are frequently reared here
equal to any produced in the richest counties of
England. Beans and pease are cultivated to the
extent of about 6,000 acres annually. Potatoes are
grown on every farm both for family use and for
sale. And as the county abounds in small towns
and villages, a much greater quantity, in proportion,
is raised in the immediate vicinity of these than
upon farms that are more remote. Many farmers,
too, are in the habit of letting small portions of
potato-land to such villagers as have none of their
own. Turnips are general all over the county, ex-
cept in the immediate vicinity of villages, where
they are exposed to the depredations of juvenile
intruders. On almost every farm, rye grass,
and red and white clovers are cultivated; and
strong, heavy crops of hay are produced in suitable
seasons. The gross produce of the county in 1854
comprised 697,252 bushels of wheat, 1,075,603
bushels of barley, 1,656,467 bushels of oats, 540
bushels of here or bigg, 111,952 bushels of beans,
405,445 tons of turnips, and 68,087 tons of potatoes.
The average produce per imperial acre was 28
bushels 3 pecks of wheat, 38 bushels 2 pecks of
barley, 38 bushels of oats, 33 bushels 1 peck of bere,
28 bushels 3 pecks of beans, 14i tons of turnips,
and 4 tons 14 cwt. of potatoes. And the aggregate
live stock in 1854 comprised 10,953 horses, 8,586
milk cows, 22,371 other bovine cattle, 8,311 calves,
32,550 ewes, gimmers, and ewe-hogs, 33,866 tups,
wethers, and wether-hogs, and 11,485 swine.
The agricrdtural prosperity of Fifeshire is highly
promoted by the peninsular form of the county,
placing sea-borne conveyance almost at the door of
a large proportion of its most productive tracts, and
even within ten miles or so of its most sequestered
farms; and it has been greatly stimulated, first by
the introduction of steam navigation, and next by
the formation of the railways. The size of the
farms ranges from 50 to 500 acres. The lands, with
the exception of grass parks within gentlemen's en-
closures, are all let on lease, usually for 19 years.
The rents, where paid in money, are various, rising
from £1 to £5, and in some few localities higher;
but in many instances, a grain-rent is paid, regu-
lated by the fiar-prices of the county, which are
fixed yearly by the sheriff. Thom hedges are not
so prevalent for enclosure as in some other coun-
ties; stone walls being more extensively used, and
being preferred for this purpose, though neither
possessing the beauty nor affording the warmth of
the other. Scarcely any natural wood exists in the
county; and wood of any kind was formerly so
scarce as to render all the sea-boards and all the
eastward slopes, not only bleak in aspect, but
wofully unsheltered from the bitter easterly winds
which prevail so long in the spring season over all
the east of Scotland. But during the last forty or
fifty years, " there has been a great deal of planting,
and nowhere to such an extent as in the low dis-
trict east from Bossie, partly in the proprietary of
the Earl of Leven. There is here now a forest of
Scotch firs stretching for many miles in length, and
within the boundaries of which are found the man-
sions and pleasure grounds of Crawford Priory and
Melville. In the territory adjacent to the Forth,
near Kirkcaldy, there is much of the higher grounds
FIFESHIRE.
650
FIFESHIEE.
planted, chiefly on the estate of Mr. Ferguson of
Raith. In the western district there has been also
considerable planting. There does not appear to be
much old or hard-wood in Fife, the principal and
largest collection of trees, dignified by age and mag-
nitude, being in the grounds around the charming
seat of Leslie House, in the vale of the Leven."
The valued rent of the county in 1674 was £363,129
Scots; in 1695, £369,786 18s. 8d. Scots. The real
rental in 1811 was £335,291; in 1843, £381,572.
The value of assessed property in 1815 was
£405,770; in 1843, £490,033. The average of the
fiars from 1843 to 1851 was, white wheat, £2 5s.
4^jd.; red wheat, £2 2s. 2fd.; barley, £1 6s. 10fd.;
bere, £1 3s. 3Jd.; oats, £1 Is. 0|d.; pease and
beans, £1 10s. 6^d.; rye, £1 7s. lOJd.; malt,
£2 12s. 2fd.; and oatmeal, 16s. 8£d.
The principal manufacture in Fife has long been
that of linen, which, from small beginnings, has
gradually increased to its present great importance.
Many mills have been erected — and these are still
increasing — for the spinning of tow and flax into
different qualities of yarn. The cloths woven are
of various kinds, — sail-cloth, bed-ticking, brown
linen, dowlas, duck, checks, shirting, and table-
linen. The damask manufacture of Dunfermline is
probably unequalled in the world, for the beauty
of its designs, and the skill with which it is executed.
The cotton-manufacture has never been an object of
the expenditure of capital in this county; but many
workmen are employed in this manufacture for Glas-
gow houses. Iron-founding and the making of ma-
chinery are carried on in different places. The
tanning of leather is also carried on in two or three
localities. Bricks and tiles are made for local use;
and earthenware and china manufactured to some
extent. Coach-building is likewise earned on.
There are numerous breweries and some pretty ex-
tensive distilleries, which afford the farmer a ready
market for his barley. Ship-building also forms a
part of the trade of the county. — The weights and
measures, before the act for the equalization of these,
were Tron, reckoning 16 Scots Troy lbs. to the stone,
and 20 Troy ozs. to the lb., for wool, butter, cheese,
hides, and other home-productions; Dutch for
butcher meat — except in Kirkcaldy presbytery,
where Tron was used — meal, foreign flax, and hemp,
iron and Dutch goods; and avoirdupois for groceries.
The stone of flax was 22 lbs. avoirdupois. The
measure for wheat, pease, and beans, was a firlot,
containing 2274.888 cubic inches, being 35.29 per
cent, better than standard measure; and for oats,
barley, and malt, a firlot containing 3308.928 cubic
inches, or 3.225 per cent, better than the standard.
Home-made woollen cloth sold by the ell of 37£
inches.
Fifeshire is remarkable for the number of its royal
burghs, its burghs-of-barony, its populous villages,
and its landed proprietors. This seems to have at-
tracted the notice of Pennant, the tourist, who
is quite enthusiastic in his description of the county.
" Permit me," says he, " to take a review of the
Peninsula of Fife, a county so populous, that, ex-
cepting the environs of London, scarcely one in
South Britain can vie with it; fertile in soil, abun-
dant in cattle, happy in collieries, in iron-stone, in
lime and freestone; blest in manufactures; the pro-
perty remarkably well divided, — none exceedingly
powerful to distress, and often depopulate a county,
— most of the fortunes of a useful mediocrity. The
number of towns is, perhaps, unparralleled in an
equal tract of coast; for the whole shore, from Crail
to Culross, about 40 English miles, is one continued
chain of towns and villages." The royal burghs,
exercising the burgh parliamentary franchise, are
Anstruther Easter, Anstruther Wester, Burntisland,
Crail, Cupar, Dunfermline, Dysart, Inverkei thing,
Kilrenny, Kinghorn, Kirkcaldy, Pittenweem, and St.
Andrews. Four royal burghs, not now exercising the
burgh parliamentary franchise, are Auchtermuchty,
Earlsferry, Falkland, and Newburgh. Four burghs of
barony or of regality are Elie, Leven, West Wemyss,
and Linktown. The other small towns, villages,
and principal hamlets are Ferry-Port-on-Craig,
Largo, Colinsburgh, Kilconquhar, Ceres, St. Mon-
ance, Leuchars, Kennoway, Leslie, Pathhead, Loch-
gelly, Aherdour, North Queensferry, Charlestown,
Limekilns, Drumochy, New Gilston, Lundinmill,
Temple, Woodside, Drumeldrie-Moor, Barnyards,
Williamshurgh, Liberty, Kingsbarns, Blebo-Craig,
Boarhills, Grange, Kincaple, Strathkinness, Bal-
mullo, Marytown, Newport, Woodhaven, Balmerino,
Galdry, Kilmany, Eathillet, Logie, Lucklawhill-
Fens, Osnaburgh, Gladney, Springfield, Chance-
Inn, Craigrothie, Pitlessie, Crossgates, Cutts-Mill,
Hospital-Mill, Walton, Easter Fernie, Letham,
Monimail, Brunton, Luthrie, Glenduckie, Lindores,
Grange of Lindores, Collessie, Edenton, Giffordton,
Kinloch, Lady bank, Monkston, Dunshelt, Damhead,
Strathmiglo, Balmbrae, Fmchie, Newton-Falkland,
Kettle, Balrnalcom, Bankton-Park, Coalton, Hole-
kettle-Bridge, Muii-head, Myreside, Baneton, Star,
Scoonie-Bum, Coalton of Balgonie, Markinch,
Woodside, Duhhieside, Balcurrie, Burns, Haugh-
Mill, Milton, Thornton, Windygates, Kinglassie,
Sinclairtown, Chapel, Auchtertool, Newbigging, St.
David's, Fordel-square, Hillend, Crumbie-Point,
Torry, Torryburn, Caimiehill, Carnock, Gowkhall,
Saline, Crossford, Halbeath, Masterton, Patiemoor,
Cowdenbeath, Keltie, and Oakfield. Among the
principal seats are Broomhall, the Earl of Elgin ;
Crawford-priory, the Earl of Glasgow; Melville-
house, the Earl of Leven ; Kelly-castle, the Earl oi
Mar; Donibristle-house, the Earl of Moray; Aber-
dour-house, the Earl of Morton; Lochgelly-house,
the Earl of Minto ; Leslie-house, the Earl of Rothes ;
Dysart-house, the Earl of Eosslyn ; Balvaird-house,
the Earl of Mansfield; Denog, the Earl of Zetland;
Balbeadie-house, Sir Jehn Malcolm, Bart.; Pit-
firrane, Sir P. A. Halket, Bart.; Balcaskie, Sir
R. A. Anstruther, Bart.; Kilconquhar-house, Sir
J. T. Bethune, Bart.; Cambo-house, Sir Thomas
Erskine, Bart.; Raith, Robert Ferguson, Esq.;
Falkland-house, O. Tyndall Brace, Esq. ; Blebo, A.
Bethune, Esq.; Mor.trave-house, Major A. Ander-
son; Durie-house, Charles M. Christie, Esq.; Bal-
four-castle, Captain C. R. D. Bethune, R. N.; Scots-
craig, Captain W. M. H. Dougal; Strathere-house,
J. Fergus, Esq.; Dunino-house, Lord W. R. K.
Douglas; Fordel, G. W. M. Henderson, Esq.; Fit-
tencrieff, James Hunt, Esq. ; Balcarras, Major-Gen-
eral J. Lindsay; Dunnikier-house, J. T. Oswald
Esq.; Charton-house, John A. Thomson, Esq.;
Birkhill-house, F. L. S. Wedderburn, Esq. ; Wemy ss-
hall, James Wemyss, Esq.; Elie-liouse; Airdrie;
Pitmilly; Dunbog; Kankeillor; Inchdairny; Strath -
endry; Mugdrum; Eossie; Bellevue; Tony; Largo-
house; Cunnoquhie; Tarvit; Nuthill; Kemhack;
Hillside; Gask, &c.
The maritime traffic of Fifeshire is not concen-
trated at any one or two ports, but diffuses itself
round nearly all the coasts, at the numerous towns
and villages on at once the Tay, the German ocean,
and the Forth, though chiefly on the latter, and is
of considerable aggregate extent. The only head-
port of the county is Kirkcaldy; and the chief
shipping companies are the Kirkcaldy and London,
the Kirkcaldy and Glasgow, the Kirkcaldy, Leith,
and Glasgow, the Leven and Leith, the Elie and
Leith, the Anstruther and Leith, and the Inver-
FIFESHIRE.
(351
FIFESHIRE.
keithing and Lcith. But the northern parts of the
county have large transactions with Dundee. — The
principal ferries are from Newport to Dundee, from
Ferry-Port-on-Craig to Broughty-Ferry, from Kirk-
caldy to Newhaven, from Burntisland to Granton,
and from North Queensferry to South Queensferry,
— all of which are so multitudinous, regular, and
well-appointed as to be only a degree or two less
convenient across the friths than good bridges are
across rivers; and there are, in addition, numerous
steam-conveyances, either direct or in transit, from
many of the other coast-towns. — The road-trusts
are distributed into districts of very unequal extent,
and those in the west comprise Kinross- shire; but
all work well, and maintain the highways in good
condition. The Cupar district comprises 85 miles of
turnpike roads and 126 miles of statute labour roads ;
the Cupar, Kinross, and Pitcairly roads extend to
about 22£ miles; the Dunfermline district has 25J
miles of turnpike roads and 49J miles of statute
labour roads ; the Outh and Ni vington district has
26| miles of turnpike roads ; the St. Andrews dis-
trict has 135J miles of turnpike roads and 73 J miles
of statute labour roads ; the Kirkcaldy district has
77 miles of turnpike roads and 67 J miles of statute
labour roads; the Leven trust has 7 J miles of road;
the Kinross-shire district has 42§ miles of turnpike
roads and 40} miles of statute labour roads; the
Cleish and Tullybole trust has 9 miles of statute
labour roads ; the great north road comprehends 39 J
miles of turnpike ; and the Kinross and Alloa road
comprehends 18 miles of turnpike. — The Edinburgh,
Perth, and Dundee railway traverses the coast
from Burntisland to Sinclairtown, goes northward
thence to the centre of the county, and ramifies to
Dunfermline, Newburgh, and Ferry-Port-on-Craig.
The Leven railway and the St. Andrews railway,
the former 6 miles long and the latter 5, connect
the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway with
respectively Leven and St. Andrews. The Stirling
and Dunfermline railway goes westward from
Dunfermline to a junction with the Scottish Cen-
tral in the vicinity of Stirling. Other lines of rail-
way within the county, particularly interior lines on
the east, and a transit line from Edinburgh to
Perth by way of Queensferry on the west, have
at various periods been speculated upon ; but only
those which we have named have been executed.
Fifeshire was anciently of much greater extent
than it now is. Under the names of Fife and Foth-
rik or Fothrif, the whole tract lying between the
rivers and friths of Forth and Tay appears to have
been comprehended; including, besides what now
constitutes the county, Monteith, the lordship of
Strathearn, Clackmannanshire, Kinross-shire, and
that portion of Perthshire which borders on the
Forth. From the great extent and value of this
district, and from its forming so important a por-
tion of the Pictish dominions, it unquestionably re-
ceived, at an early period, its popular appellation of
' the Kingdom of Fife,' — a name still fondly cher-
ished by its sons, especially those to whom distance
renders still more dear the place of their nativity.
At different periods, the extent of 'the kingdom'
was diminished. So early as 1426, the district of
Kinross was formed into a distinct county ; and in
the time of Buchanan — who wrote towards the end
of the following century — Fifeshire seems to have
been reduced nearly to its present dimensions.
" The rest of the country," says he, speaking of this
district, " the ambition of man has divided into sev-
eral stewartries, as the stewartry of Clackmannan,
of Culross, and of Kinross." A farther dismember-
ment, however, took place in 1685, when the par-
ishes of Portmoak, Cleish, and Tullybole, were
disjoined from Fife, and, with some lands of Perth-
shire, incorporated with the shire of Kinross. Nor
have all the jurisdictions of what now constitutes
Fifeshire been retained. Among the more impor-
tant of the courts now abolished, were that of the
steward of the stewartry of Fife, held heritably by
the Duke of Athole, and in compensation for which
he claimed and obtained the sum of £1,200 sterling
at its abolition; that of the bailie of the regality of
Dunfermline, for which the Marquis of Tweeddale
received £2,672 7s. sterling; that of the bailie of
the regality of St. Andrews, for which the Earl of
Crawford received £3,000 sterling; that of the re-
gality of Aberdour, for which the Earl of Morton
received £93 2s. sterling; that of the regality ol
Pittenweem, for which Sir John Anstruther of An-
struther obtained £202 15s. 3d. sterling ; that of the
regality of Lindores, for which Antonia Barclay of
Collemy, and Mr. Harry Barclay, her husband, ob-
tained £215 sterling; and the regality of Balmer-
ino, which was not valued, as it was forfeited to
the Crown by the accession of Lord Balmerino to
the rebellion in 1745.
Fifeshire, as a county, sends one member to par-
liament. Its polling-places are Cupar, St. Andrews,
Crail, Kirkcaldy, Dunfermline, and Auchtermuchty.
Its constituency in 1839 was 2,967; in 1854, 3,280.
By the reform bill, also, Cupar, St. Andrews, Easter
and Wester Anstruther, Pittenweem, Kilrenny, and
Crail, elect one member; Kirkcaldy, Dysart, King-
horn, and Burntisland, elect another; and Dun-
fermline and Inverkeithing are conjoined with the
Stirling district of burghs in the election of a third.
The total constituency of these burghs, independent
of that for the county, is about 2,000. This county,
therefore, has its fair share in the representation of
Scotland in the British parliament. The county is
divided into the eastern district of Cupar, and the
western district of Dunfermline, each under the
jurisdiction of a sheriff's substitute ; and for civil
purposes, it is divided also into the four districts of
Cupar, St. Andrews, Kirkcaldy, and Dunfermline.
The commissary courts for the county and the
sheriff courts for the eastern district are held at
Cupar on every Tuesday and Thursday during ses-
sion, and sheriff small debt courts on every first
and third Thursday of each month during session,
and on every first Thursday during vacation. The
sheriff ordinary courts for the western district,
and also the sheriff small debt courts, are held at
Dunfermline, on eveiy Friday during session.
Quarter sessions are held on the first Tuesday of
March, May, and August, and on the last Tues-
day of October. Sheriff circuit small debt courts
are held at St. Andrews, Colinsburgh, Leven, Kirk-
caldy, Auchtermuchty, and Newburgh. The sta-
tions of the county police, for the Cupar district, are
Cupar, Kettle, Strathmiglo, Trafalgar, Newburgh,
and Grauldry ; for the St. Andrews district, St. An-
drews, Leuchars, Ferry-Port-on-Craig, Newport,
Crail, Anstruther, Colinsburgh, Largo, and Pitten-
weem ; for the Kirkcaldy district, Kirkcaldy, Link-
town, Pathhead, Dysart, Leven, Markinch, Leslie,
Lochgelly, Burntisland, and Kinghorn ; and for the
Dunfermline district, Dunfermline, Crossgates, Ab-
erdour, Torryburn, Saline, Carnoek, and North
Queensferry. The number of committals for crime,
in the year, within the county, was 167 in the aver-
age of 1836-1840, 147 in the average of 1841-1845,
138 in the average of 1846-1850, 89 in 1851, 85 in
1852, and 110 in 1853. The total number of per-
sons confined in Cupar jail within the year ending
30th June, 1853, was 346; the average duration of
the confinement of each was 37 days ; and the net
cost of their confinement per head, after deducing
FIFESHIKE.
652
FIFESHIKE.
earnings, was £20 5s. 7d. The total number con-
fined in Dunf-ermline jail in the same year, was
216; the average duration of confinement, 30 days;
and the net cost per head, £18 3s. 3d. The number
of parishes in the county assessed for the poor is
39; the number unassessed, 22. The number of
registered poor in the year 1851-2 was 3,892 ; in
the year 1852-3, 3,792. The number of casual poor
in 1851-2 was 1,372; in 1852-3, 1,357. The sum
expended on the registered poor in 1851-2, was
£18,442; in 1852-3, £19,110. The sum expended
on the casual poor in 1851-2 was £1,230; in 1852-3,
£984. The assessment in 1853-4, per £100 of real
valued rent, was 3d. for rogue-money, 8s. 8d. for
county police, 4s. 5d. for prisons, and Is. 3d. for
court-houses. Population of the county in 1801,
93,743; in 1811, 101,272; in 1821, 114,556; in 1831,
128,839; in 1841, 140,140; in 1861, 154,770. Males
in 1861, 72,608; females, 82,162. Inhabited
houses in 1861, 26,029; rooms, 93,371; families,
37,143.
There are in Fifeshire 61 quoad civilia parishes,
and part of two others. There are also 3 quoad
sacra parishes, and 8 chapels of ease. Twenty of
the quoad civilia parishes constitute the presbytery
of St. Andrews. Nineteen of the quoad civilia par-
ishes, and one of the quoad sacra parishes, consti-
tute the presbytery of Cupar. Fourteen of the
quoad civilia parishes, together with one belonging
to Kinross-shire, constitute the presbytery of Kirk-
caldy. Eight of the quoad civilia parishes, and two
of the quoad sacra parishes, together with three
parishes belonging to Kinross-shire, and one be-
longing to Perthshire, constitute the presbytery of
Dunfermline. And these four presbyteries consti-
tute the synod of Fife. But the two quoad civilia
parishes which belong but partly to Fifeshire, are
in the presbytery of Perth, and synod of Perth and
Stirling. In 1851, the number of places of worship
within the county was 219; of which 77 belonged
to the Established church, 49 to the Free church,
45 to the United Presbyterian church, 1 to the Re-
formed Presbyterian church, 2 to the Original Se-
cession, 7 to the Episcopalians, 12 to the Independ-
ents, 9 to the Baptists, 1 to the "Wesleyan Methodists,
1 to the New church, 1 to the Campbellites, 1 to the
Evangelical Union, 6 to isolated congregations, 3
to the Roman Catholics, 1 to the Catholic and
Apostolic church, and 3 to the Mormonites. The
number of sittings in 61 of the Established places of
worship was 39,578; in 43 of the Free church
places of worship, 21,022; in 41 of the United Pres-
byterian places of worship, 22,027; in the Reformed
Presbyterian meeting-house, 300; in 1 of the Ori-
ginal Secession meeting-houses, 800; in 6 of the
Episcopalian chapels, 1,123; in 9 of the Independ-
ent chapels, 2,766; in 8 of the Baptist chapels,
2,000; in the New church chapel, 80; in the Camp-
bellite chapel, 80; in the chapels of 5 of the
isolated congregations, 1,220; in one of the Ro-
man Catholic chapels, 300 ; and in one of the
chapels of the Mormonites, 81. The maximum
attendance, on the Census Sabbath, at 64 of the
Established places of worship, was 21,274; at 45 of
the Free church places of worship, 13,083; at 42 of
the United Presbyterian places of worship, 14,167;
at the Reformed Presbyterian meeting-house, 230;
at the 2 Original Secession meeting-houses, 418; at
5 of the Episcopalian chapels, 419; at 10 of the
Independent chapels, 1,008; at 8 of the Baptist
chapels, 1,025; at the Wesleyan Methodist chapel,
69; at the chapel of the New church, 13; at the
Campbellite chapel, 14; at the chapel of the Evan-
gelical Union, 105; at the chapels of 5 of the isola-
ted congregations, 300; at one of the Roman Cath-
olic chapels, 450; at the Catholic and Apostolic
chapel, 12; and at the 3 Mormonite chapels, 173.
There were in 1851, in Fifeshire, 173 public day-
schools, attended by 9,839 males, and 7,369 females,
— 112 private day-schools, attended by 2,743 males,
and 3,194 females, — 19 evening-schools for adults,
attended by 263 males, and 176 females, — and 183
Sabbath-schools, attended by 6,371 males and 8,382
females.
The aboriginal inhabitants of Fife were Celts.
At the period of the Roman invasion, the peninsula
between the Forth and the Tay, together with the
eastern part of Stratheam, and the country lying
westward of the Tay as far as the river Brand, was
inhabited by the Horestii. They had no towns
within the bounds of what now constitutes Fife ;
but their hill forts were numerous, all over the
county; and the remains of several of these are
still to be traced. On Dunearn hill there was a Bri-
tish fort of great strength, which soon yielded to
the art of the Romans. Upon Carneil hill near Car-
nock, the Horestii had another fort, which in all
probability came into possession of the Romans, as
in 1774, upon opening some tumuli on the hill, se-
veral ums were found containing Roman coins.
About l£ mile north from Camock there was a fort
on a hill called Craigluscar ; and 3 miles north-
north-west there was one on Saline hill, and another
at no great distance below. The situation of several
others can also still be traced on the heights in the
northern part of the parish of Strathmiglo, as
well as on the hills near Newburgh. In the year
83, Agricola entered the country of the Horestii;
and being informed that it was the intention of the
Caledonians to attack him on all sides, in a country
with which he was unacquainted, he divided his
army into three divisions. It seems probable that
with one of these he marched to Carnock, near which
are still to be traced the remains of two Roman
military stations. From thence he pushed forward
the 9th legion to Loch Orr, about 2 miles from Locb
Leven. Here the Romans pitched their camp, hav-
ing two ranges of hills in front, the Cleish range on
their left, and Bennarty hill on their right. In the
summer of 84, Agricola left the country of the
Horestii, on his expedition to the north ; and after
the battle of the Grampians, he took hostages from
the Horestii, for their future tranquillity, and con-
ducted his troops into winter quarters on the south
of the Forth.
In subsequent proceedings, in connection with the
Roman invasions of Caledonia, the inhabitants of
Fife bore their part, first under the name of Hor-
estii, and afterwards under that of Vecturiones, a
tribe of the people called Picts. The county of Fife,
and the lower portion of Perthshire and Angus,
formed the most important portion of the Pictish
territory; and were more extensively peopled than
the more central or northern parts. The Picts were
instructed in the truths of Christianity by the Cul-
dees. About the year 700, the island in Loci
Leven was bestowed on St. Serf. Setting aside the
fable of St. Regulus having landed at St. Andrews,
about the year 365, there is absolute certainty that
the Culdees had a settlement there in the 9th cen-
tury ; and such was the fame they had attained in
the 10th century, that Constantine III. took up his
residence among them, and died in 943, a member
or, according to Winton, abbot of their monastery.
At Dunfermline there was an early Culdee estab-
lishment formed, as there was also at Kirkcaldy ;
and, according to Winton, Bridei, the son of Derili,
founded one at Culross, about the year 700. St.
Serf, we are informed by Winton, resided here for
many years before he went to Loch Leven ; and by thn
FIFESHIKE.
653
FIFESHIKE.
same authority we are informed that he afterwards
went there, where he died and was buried. Here
St. Mungo, the supposed founder of the see of Glas-
gow, was for some time a disciple, previous to his
removing to the west. There was another society
of Culdees at Portmoak, near Loch Leven. The
union of the Scots and Picts brought the whole of
Pictavia, and of course Fife, under the government
of the Scottish kings. In 881 the Danes entered the
Forth, and made a descent upon the shores of Fife;
and at subsequent periods their incursions were re-
newed. Indeed tradition even yet recollects with
horror the various conflicts which the inhabitants
of Fife had from time to time to maintain with the
Danish rovers ; and the Statistical accounts inform
us that the skeletons, which have been on various
occasions found upon the shore, from the river Leven
to the eastern extremity of Largo bay, are regarded
as the remains of the heroes who fell in these con-
flicts.
In very early times, the Maormors or Earls of
Fife were" entitled to place the King of Scotland on
the inaugural stone, to lead the van of the King's
army into battle, and to enjoy the privilege of a
sanctuary to the clan Macduff. During Celtic times,
the different divisions of the kingdom were governed
by chiefs, under the title of Maormor; and accord-
ingly we have the Maormors of Ross, of Strathearn,
of Moray, and of Fife. In subsequent times, these
titles gave place to the Saxon title of Earl. Macduff,
who lent powerful assistance to Malcolm Canmore,
is alleged to have been the first Earl of Fife ; but it
would be absurd to suppose that he, a Celtic chief,
was ever designated by this Saxon title. He was
Maormor of the district ; and must have been a
nobleman of great power and influence. The period
of his death is unknown ; but Gillimickel Macduff,
the third in succession from him, and an influential
noble at court, died in 1139. Duncan, the next Earl,
witnessed charters of David I. and Malcolm IV.,
and performed for the latter the ceremony of plac-
ing him on the inaugural stone at his coronation.
Duncan II., the son of this Earl, is often named in
charters of Malcolm IV. and William. He was, in
1175, associated with Richard Cumyn, in the office
of Justiciarius Scotia;, and married Ada, the niece
of the King. With her he received the lands of
Strathmiglo, Falkland, Kettle, and Rathillet in Fife,
and of Strathbraan in Perthshire. He died about
1203; so that he held the office of justiciary for 28
years. Malcolm, his son, married Matilda, daugh-
ter to the Earl of Strathearn, and received with her
the lands of Glendevon, Cambo, Abdie, and Fossaway.
It is during the reign of William that we first hear
of a sheriff of Fife. In June 1300, a body of Eng-
lish invaders were attacked by Wallace, and com-
pletely defeated, in the forest of Black-Ironside, or
Eamside, near Lindores. In this battle Sir Duncan
Balfour, sheriff of Fife, who with the men of the
county had joined Wallace, was killed. Immedi-
ately after the battle of Falkirk, Edward sent a
division of his army across the Forth, into the shires
of Clackmannan and Fife, which ravaged the country
and burned the villages in the course of its destruc-
tive march. Fife, in consequence of the resistance
made at Falkirk by Macduff and his vassals, was
particularly obnoxious, and was delivered over to
military execution. In the words of Hardyne, all
was " clene brent." The city of St. Andrews was
deserted by its inhabitants, and delivered over to
the flames. In 1303, also, Edward made great
havoc at Dunfermline. A feeble show of resistance
had till now been kept up by Comyn the governor ;
but he also was at length compelled to submit. At
Ktrathore in Fife — obviously some place on the Orr
water — he met with the Earls of Pembroke and
Ulster, and Sir Henry Percy, when a solemn ne-
gociation was entered into. The number of those
who joined the standard of Brace was but few. The
bishop of St. Andrews, however, and Robert Wish-
art, bishop of Glasgow, were among the first to give
the example. Brace proceeded immediately to
Scone, where, upon the 27th of March, 1306, he
was solemnly crowned by Lamberton. On the
second day after the coronation, and before Brace
and his adherents had left Scone, they were sur-
prised by the sudden arrival of Isabella, Countess of
Buchan, the sister of the Earl of Fife, who immedi-
ately claimed the privilege of placing the King on
the inaugural chair. The Earl himself was of the
English party, and at the court of Edward. His
sister, therefore, a romantic and high-spirited woman,
leaving her husband, joined Brace, and claimed the
privilege of her family. This ancient solemnity
was of too much consequence in the eyes of the
people for Bruce to refuse the lady's request; and
accordingly, he was a second time installed in the
sacred chair, by her hands.
In 1317, Edward again coming with fresh troops
into the Forth, landed them at Donibristle. The
fighting men of the county would appear to have
then been with Douglas, who was ravaging the
English borders; for a general panic was created
by this invasion, and the sheriff had great difficulty
in gathering together a force of 500 cavalry. With
these he made an attempt to repel the invasion ; but,
intimidated by superior numbers, his soldiers dis-
gracefully took to flight. A spirited churchmen,
however, Sinclair, Bishop of Dunkeld, putting him-
self at the head of sixty of his servants, and with
nothing ecclesiastical in his dress except a linen
frock or rochet cast over his armour, rode off to
meet the fugitives. "Whither are you flying?"
said he, addressing their leaders, " Ye are recreant
knights, and ought to have your spurs hacked off! "
He then seized a spear from the nearest soldier, and
calling out, " Turn for shame ! let all who love
Scotland follow me ! " he furiously charged the
English. The Fifemen instantly rallied; the at-
tack wasrenewed ; and the English speedily gave way,
and were driven back to their ships with the loss of
500 men, besides many who were drowned by the
swamping of one of the vessels. During the inva-
sion of England in 1327, under Randolph, Earl of
Moray, and Sir James Douglas, the Earl of Pem-
broke landed in Fife, and stormed the castle of
Leuchars. At the battle of Halidon-hill the Earl of
Fife had again changed sides, and with his vassals
fought in defence of his country. The carnage
among the Scots at this battle was immense ; and
the probability is that the Earl of Fife was killed
here. He was succeeded by his son Duncan, who
was the last Earl of Fife, in the male line of their
great ancestor Macduff. Several fortresses still held
out against the English ; and in 1335, a parliament
was called to meet at the strong castle of Dairsie in
Fife, which was the residence of the bailies of the
regality of St. Andrews, and which had been built
or greatly strengthened by Lamberton, bishop of
that see. This parliament was attended by many
powerful Scottish barons ; but the overweening
pride and ambition of the Earl of Athol embroiled
its deliberations, and kindled animosities among the
leaders. Another parliament was then held at Dun-
fermline, at which Sir Andrew Murray of Bothwell
was unanimously chosen regent. On learning these
events, Edward again invaded Scotland, wasting the
country wherever he went ; and for the purpose of
more effectually keeping down the spirit of resist-
ance, he maintained a powerful fleet in the frith of
FIFESHIRE.
G54
FIFESHIRE.
Forth, as well as on the east and west coasts. Sir
Andrew Murray, upon Edward's departure, issued
from his fastnesses, and several of the castles in
possession of the English were wrested from them ;
among which were the castle of St. Andrews and
the tower of Falkland. Assisted by the Earls of
Fife and March, the regent made himself master of
both the town and castle of St. Andrews, after a
siege of three weeks; but in 1338 he died. The
command of the Scottish army now fell upon the
Steward; and shortly afterwards he obtained, by
the treachery of its defender, possession of the castle
of Cupar, which the late regent had in vain at-
tempted by force. By the exertions of the Steward
the English were driven from the country, with the
exception of some of the places of strength ; and
taking advantage of a short peace, he used every
endeavour for the re-establishment of order and the
distribution of justice.
In 1371, the Steward ascended the throne under
the title of Robert II. The male line of the ancient
Earls of Fife was now extinct; and Robert, the
second son of the King, succeeded to the earldom
by agreement with the heiress of the last Earl.
The new Earl of Fife, accompanied by the Earl of
Douglas, and by the Lord of Galloway, made an in-
cursion at the head of 30,000 men across the Solway,
and plundered the rich district of Cockermouth and
the adjacent parts of Westmoreland, returning with
great booty. He was likewise, in 1389, appointed
regent of the kingdom; and next year, on the ac-
cession of his brother to the throne, he was continued
in the regency. At a parliament held at Perth in
April, 1398, the King created his eldest son David,
Earl of Carrick, Duke of Rothesay, and his brother,
the Earl of Fife, Duke of Albany. Rothesay, now
past his twentieth year, did not long submit to be
kept under the control of his uncle, Albany; and,
before a year had expired, Albany was removed
from the government, by a parliament held at Perth,
and the Duke of Rothesay appointed regent in his
stead. For this, however, the Duke of Rothesay was
destined soon to pay very dearly; and the county of
Fife was to be made the scene of an occurrence
which, for barbarous cruelty, was totally unex-
ampled even amid the " great and horrible destruc-
tions, herschips, burning, and slaughter," which the
acts of parliament that appointed him regent declare
to have been so common at this time. This was
the plot which ended in the cruel death of that un-
happy prince, at Falkland: which see. At the
coronation of James I., in 1424, the Duke of Albany,
as Earl of Fife, performed the ancient ceremony of
placing him on the inaugural stone. Soon after
this, the Duke of Albany, his second son Alexander,
and his father-in-law, the aged Earl of Lennox,
were tried upon some unrecorded charges, found
guilty, and executed on that fatal eminence in front
of Stirling castle, popularly called the Heading-hill.
The earldom of Fife, and all its manors and castles,
were forfeited to the Crown ; and the castle of Falk-
land, which had been so long a principal residence
of the ancient race of Macduff, now became a royal
palace. About this time and afterwards, as well as
some years earlier, occurred remarkable events in
the academic and reformation history of Scotland,
which will be found narrated in our article on St.
Andrews. In 1480, Andrew Wood, who then be-
longed to Leith, but afterwards became known to
history as the knight of Largo, attacked and re-
pulsed a hostile English squadron which appeared
in the frith of Forth ; for which exploit, as well as
for a series of subsequent services tending to exalt
the marine of Scotland, and to humble the flag of
England, he afterwards received a royal grant of the
lands and village of Largo. In the battle of Stirling,
fought in June, 1488, the central division of the
Scottish army, commanded in person by the King,
comprised a body of 3,000 footmen, and 1,000 horse,
which had been suddenly levied in the counties of
Fife and Angus.
The Scottish kings had always maintained their
right to nominate to vacant sees and abbacies, not-
withstanding the papal pretensions to this power.
But the minority of James V. seems to have occa-
sioned applications to Leo X., who then occupied
the papal chair, with regard to the vacant benefice
of St. Andrews. The Queen-dowager supported the
claim of her own relation, Gawin Douglas, after-
wards bishop of Dunkeld, and one of the early orna-
ments of Scottish literature. His servants had
seized possession of the archiepiscopal castle at St.
Andrews, and he for a brief period maintained that
fortress. The chapter of St. Andrews met, in the
meantime, and elected Hepburn, the prior, to the
office, who immediately besieged the castle, and
being favoured by most of the nobility, gained pos-
session of it. The Earl of Angus, who favoured the
claim of his kinsman, Douglas, set off with 200
horse to rescue this important fortress from the
archbishop-elect; but he was too late in arriving,
and Hepburn for a short time held the castle, and
nominally the rank of primate of Scotland. To put
an end to this dispute, the Duke of Albany obtained
the dignity to be conferred on Andrew Forman,
bishop of Moray; and in 1522, when Forman died,
James Beaton, bishop of Glasgow, who had been
chancellor of the kingdom, received the appointment.
In September, 1526, the Douglases having defeated
their opponents at Linlithgow, advanced into Fife,
and pillaged the abbey of Dunfermline, and after-
wards the castle of St. Andrews ; but the archbishop
had fled. " They could not find the bishop," says
Lindsay of Pitscottie, " for he was keeping sheep on
Bogrian-knowe, with shepherd's clothes upon him,
like as he had been a shepherd himself." By gifts,
however — which his wealth well-enabled him to be-
stow— the archbishop effected an apparent recon-
ciliation with Angus ; and at the festival of Christ-
mas, in 1527, he entertained the King, the Queen-
dowager, Angus, and others of the Douglas "party,
at his castle of St. Andrews. " There," says Lind-
say, " he made them great cheer and merriness, and
gave them great gifts of gold and silver, with fair
halkneys and other gifts of tacks and steedings, that
they would desire of him, that he might pacify their
wrath therewith, and obtain their favours. So the
King tarried there a while quiet, and used hawking
and hunting upon the water of Eden."
In 1559 John Knox made a preaching-tour in
Fifeshire. His hearers in the collegiate church of
Crail, comprising the people of that town and a
body of followers from other places, rose in a mass
and smashed to pieces the altars, the images, the
decorations, and whatever else pertained to the
Romish worship. Next day, the same mob, greatly
augmented in numbers and increased in excitement,
proceeded to Anstruther, and there made havoc of
every thing which was or seemed to be popish. The
major part of them went next to Pittenweem, and
there destroyed a large Augustinian priory belong-
ing to the abbey of St. Andrews; while a detachment
proceeded to St. Monance, and gutted the parish
church of that place of every article which it con-
tained. Knox and his followers now moved toward
St. Andrews. Archbishop Hamilton, who was then
at Falkland with the Queen-Regent, either learning
or suspecting their intention, set out for St. Andrews
at the head of 100 armed men from the royal troops;
and sent word thence to Knox that he would order
FIFESHIRE.
C55
FIN.
the soldiers to shoot him if he came to the cathedral.
Hut the archbishop found the citizens much dis-
affected, got exaggerated accounts of the numbers
who followed Knox, and speedily went back, dis-
pirited and mortified, to Falkland. Knox's eloquence
no sooner burst upon the citizens, than it produced
its usual effect. All classes of the people, even the
very magistrates, were excited ; and the most
magnificent of cathedrals, already time-hallowed,
and on which the wealth of provinces had been ex-
pended, was laid in ruins. The other churches also
were deprived of their decorations ; and the mon-
asteries of the Franciscans and Dominicans were
destroyed. The Queen-regent, speedily learning
that Knox's followers were far from being so for-
midable as had been at first reported, hastily sum-
moned her troops at Falkland, and made an attempt
to come on them at St. Andrews by surprise. But
many Protestants in Forfarshire so opportunely re-
ceived notice of the critical situation of their
brethren, and came with such celerity and good
will to their assistance, that the combined forces
were able to face the royal army at Cupar-moor;
and there the Queen- regent, afraid to risk a battle,
consented to a truce, and engaged to remove her
French troops from Fife. The Protestant leaders
now proceeded to Perth ; and on their way thither
sanctioned or promoted the destruction of the abbey
of Lindores, the abbey of Balmerino, and every
other edifice, large or small, which seemed a prop of
the Romish worship.
In 1563, Queen Mary spent nearly four months in
Fife, variously in affairs of state and in amusements,
moving frequently from place to place, but residing
chiefly at Falkland and at St. Andrews. Next year
also she spent some time in the same way, at the
same places, going finally to Wemyss, where she
had her first interview with Lord Darnley. In 1592,
occurred at Donibristle the tragical event which is
noticed in our article Dalgety ; and in 1 600 hap-
pened at Falkland the antecedent of the mysterious
affair called the Gowrie conspiracy. See Perth.
The accession of James VI. to the crown of Eng-
land, and the removal of the court to London, by
weakening the connection with France, and causing
the nobility and gentry to reside much in London,
gave a severe blow to the prosperity of Scotland,
and more especially to Fife, and the rest of the east-
ern coast. The rebellion against Charles gave rise
to a protracted struggle, during the continuance of
which, neither trade, manufactures, nor agriculture,
could flourish. In the dissensions thus created, the
inhabitants of Fife took an active part, and had their
own share of the calamities which ensued. The
fatal battle of Kilsyth was most injurious to this
county. " Three regiments from Fife," says Dr.
Adamson, in his notes to Sibbald's History, " per-
ished almost to a man. Most of the principal traders,
and shipmasters, with their seamen, besides a multi-
tude of the people of all classes, were engaged in
that most disastrous enterprise." The tyranny of
Charles II. and James VII., and their attempt to
force episcopacy on the Scottish nation, created an
accumulation of misery in Fife which prevented the
possibility of any attempt to improve commerce or
encourage manufactures. The revolution of 1688
might have been expected to produce a favourable
change, yet it did not do so. A long-continued
severe famine quickly followed, and exhausted al-
most every resource the country possessed. The
imposition of duties ruined the trade with England
in malt; and also destroyed the trade which had
been carried on in salt. The jealousy of the mer-
chants of England, together with the favour shown
them by the government of William III., was an
additional injury, ever presenting a check to the
commerce of the numerous sea-ports of Fife, and
especially aggravating, if it did not even in a great
measure occasion, the tremendous disaster of the
utter failure of the Darien expedition. Every family
of respectability in Fife, even more than in most
other parts of Scotland, was involved in that ill-
fated adventure ; in such a degree as to suffer from
it a fearful fracture of their fortune. These latter
events, as well as some of the preceding ones, pre-
vented any material advance in social prospe ity
from being realized after the death of James IV.,
and may be said, until comparatively recent times, by
gradual degrees to have almost entirely annihilated
the trade and commerce of Fife and the eastern coast.
FIGGET-BURN, a streamlet running northward
to the frith of Forth, through the north-west end ot
Portobello, in the parish of Duddingston, E.iin
burghshire
FIGGET-WHINS. See Duddingston.
FILE MOUNTAIN. See Maeee (Loch).
FILLAN (The), a rivulet in the extreme west ot
Perthshire. It rises on the side of Benloy, on tho
water-shedding mountain-line which forms : h:
boundary with Argyleshire ; and, after having flowed
1£ mile eastward, 1 mile northward, describes over
a distance of 7J miles the arc of a circle, with the
convexity toward the north, and falls into the west
end of Loch Dochart. Its entire course of 10 miles
is in the parish of Killin ; and most of the course is
through a valley to which the stream gives the name
of Strathfillan. As Loch Dochart emits at its west
end the chief stream by which its superfluent waters
are poured into Loch Tay, the Fillan is usually and
correctly regarded as the head- water of the magni-
ficent river to which Loch Tay, in discharging east-
ward its receipt of waters from the west, gives name.
On the north bank of the Fillan, near Auchtertyre,
stand the ruins of St. Fillan's church.
FILI AN (St.), a village at the east end of Loch
Earn, in the centre of the parish of Comrie, Perth-
shire. A range of houses, almost all slated, one
story in height, ornamented in front with ivy, honey-
suckle, and other parasites, and receding from en-
closed plots of laurel and various shrubbery and
flowers, stretches chiefly along the river and partly
along the side of the lake. At the west end are
some very neat houses with large gardens in front ;
and in their vicinity are an inn and the St. Fillan's
Society hall. The village is probably the most
pleasant, as to both appearance and situation, in the
Highlands of Scotland. The St. Fillan's society
used to hold an annual exhibition, toward the end
of August, for athletic exercises. The scene of
manly sport and trials of strength, is a level green
fronting the village, at the base of an isolated, grass-
clad, terraced eminence ; and, usually attracting a
large concourse of persons — many of whom appeared
in Celtic costume — was not a little animated and inter-
esting. St. Fillan filled, in the days of his mortality,
the office of prior of Pittenweem, and afterwards
was the favourite saint of Robert Bruce ; and a relic
of him was carried in a shrine by Maurice, abbot of
Inchaffray, at the battle of Bannockburn. His well,
at the village, was long believed to have miraculous
power over disease, and even yet is viewed by the
superstitious Highlanders as possessing saintly
virtue. East of the village is a verdant conical hill,
about 600 feet high, called Dunfillan; and on its
summit is a rock from which the saint is said to
have bestowed his benedictions on the surrounding
country, and which bears the name of St. Fillan's
chair. Population of the village, 172. Houses, 41.
FIN, a prefix in British names of places, — signi-
fying a boundary.
FINCASTLE.
656
FINDOCHTIE.
FINART. See Ddnoon.
FINCASTLE, a district in the parish of Dull,
Perthshire. It stretches along the northern hank
of the Tummel; and is said to take its name from
the great number of old castles with which it abounds.
It gives the title of Viscount to the Earl of Dun-
more. See Dull.
FINDHAVEN. See Finhaven.
FINDHOEN (The)— in Gaelic Ekne— a river of
the counties of Inverness, Nairn, and Moray. It
rises in the Monadleadh hills, between Strathdearn
and Stratherrick, in Inverness-shire ; and flows in
a north-easterly though not very straight course,
through part of Inverness, Nairn, and Moray shires,
to a loch, or arm of the sea, called Findhom harbour,
in the Moray frith, at a distance of 60 miles in direct
extent from its source, increased, by its windings, to
30 miles more. It runs, to a considerable extent,
nearly parallel with the river and the strath of
Nairn. Struggling on through many opposing bar-
riers of granite mountains, it rushes through the
narrow gorges with boiling and tumultuous current ;
now reposing its still waters in some round sweeping
dark pool, and now patiently but assiduously wear-
ing its way through the dark red sandstone cliffs,
which jut out from its channel, or range in layer
above layer, forming high barriers on its banks,
while shrubs and trees crown and encompass the
steep heights, and finely contrast their variegated
green with the deep red of the cliffs on which they
grow. Here, in some overshadowed dells, where
the sun with difficulty penetrates, we find the soli-
tary eyries of the eagle or the falcon, with the
dwellings of the congregated heron, thickly perched
among the trees, while the ascending salmon rest,
by dozens, during the summer's noonday heat, in the
deep dark pools beneath. As the stream winds to-
wards the sea, its course becomes less interrupted
and boisterous. It now sweeps along fertile mea-
dows and wooded copses, till at last, all opposition
giving way, it flows out into a broad, placid sheet
of water, meeting the tides of the ocean half-way up
the smooth sandy bay of Findhorn. A low level
district surrounds its estuary ; and, during the ever-
memorable floods of August, 1829, such was the
rapid rise of the stream, then swelled into another
Amazon, that the whole plain, to the north and west
of Forres, became one sea of waters, so that a large
boat in full sail swept along the fields to within a
few yards of that burgh ! From its sudden speats,
without the slightest warning, rushing in upon the
fords, and overflowing all its banks, this river is,
perhaps, the most dangerous one in Scotland ; and
it is fully entitled to be reputed such from the fre-
quent falls of its bridges, and the injuries done,
almost every year, along its banks, as well as on the
low grounds near its mouth. It is crossed by only
three bridges, — one at Forres, a second at Dulsie,
and a third on the military road from Inverness to
Aviemore. The scenery on this river, in its course
through Moray, is the finest in that county ; and on
its romantic banks are situated a succession of
gentlemen's seats, among which are Altyre, Logie,
Eelugas, Dunphail, Kincorth, and Tannachy. The
Findhorn is navigable for boats no farther than the
tide flows; but, if the demands of commerce on its
lower stretches were ever to rise high, it could be
very facilely aided by either canal or railway. There
is an excellent salmon fishery in it. The river, at a
point about 4 miles from the sea, begins to expand
into the tidal lagoon of Findhom harbour, about 3
miles long and 1 J mile broad ; but at the end of that
lagoon it again contracts, so as to flow within proper
river limits over its last mile to the sea.
FINDHORN, or Fikdhern, a small post-town and
sea-port, in the parish of Kinloss, Morayshire. It
stands on the right side of the mouth of the Find-
horn river, on the point of a peninsula between
Findhorn harbour and Burgh-head bay, 5 miles north-
north-east of Forres, and 7 south-west of Rurgh-
head. It has changed its site more than once. A
former town stood a mile to the north-west of the
present one, but was swallowed up in one tide, by
an inundation of the sea and river, in 1701 ; and the
place where it stood is now the bottom of the sea.
The entrance of the river Findhom itself to the sea,
being formerly two miles to the westward of its pre-
sent situation, was shifted, and the ancient town of
Findhom said to be swallowed up, by the drifting
sands of Culbin. See the article Dyke. The pre-
sent town is still beset with sand-banks, which are
continually shifting, with a heavy surge in general
beating on them. A piece of land opposite to it
has already been greatly destroyed, and fears have
been entertained that the town itself must again be
deserted. The town has a tolerable foreign and
coasting trade ; exporting salmon, grain, and other
goods, and importing coals, groceries, and manu-
factured goods. It was long celebrated for curing
and drying haddocks in a peculiar way, universally
known as Findem speldings ; and it is the centre of
a herring-fishery so extensive that, in 1853, the
number of barrels of herrings cured here was 34,880,
the number of persons employed in the fishery was
1,420, and the value of boats, nets, and lines, £15,840.
The natural harbour in front of the town is one of
the best on the Moray coast; and there are a stone
pier, two quays of hewn stone, and a breastwork
connecting one of the quays with the pier. The
depth of water in the shallowest part of the channel
at the entrance from the sea is 10£ feet in the lowest
neap-tide, and from 13 to 17 feet in spring-tides.
Ship-building has of late years been considerably
carried on. Fairs for sheep, cattle, and horses are
held on the second Wednesday, old style, of March,
July, and October. The town has a good new Free
church and a public library. A place of worship
here, which had been insubstantially built, and
which was used first as a dissenting meeting-
house and next as a chapel of ease, fell to the
ground in January, 1843. Findhorn is a burgh of
barony; and, being situated at the mouth of the
river designated in Gaelic the Eme, it is usually
called by Highlanders Invererne. Population in
1861, 891.
FINDLATEE, a district on the coast of the par-
ish of Fordyce in Ranffshire. It gave the title of
Earl to the family of Ogilvie of Deskford from 1683
to 1811. The earldom became extinct in the latter
year by the death of James the 7th Earl, and is now
claimed by Sir W. Ogilvie of Carnoustie, Rart., and
by John Farquharson, Esq. of Haughton. The
estates now belong to the Earl of Seafield. The old
castle of Findlater stands on a peninsulated rock,
overhanging the sea, and is a picturesque, curious
ruin. It was formerly a place of considerable
strength, and made some figure in the history of the
feudal wars. It was one of the places which re-
fused to receive Queen Mary on her visit to the
north.
FINDOCHTIE, a fishing-village in the parish of
Rathven, 3£ miles west of Cullen, Ranffshire. It
was founded by a colony of fishermen from Fraser-
burgh in 1716. It possesses about 24 large fishing
boats and 15 small. The depth of water in its har-
bour is 24 feet; and the breadth of the entrance 270
feet. The harbour is well sheltered. An aperient
spring within high-water mark is used medicinally
by the inhabitants. Population, in 1861 , 393.
FINDOGASK. See Gask.
FINDON.
657
FINNAN.
FINDON, or Finnan, a fishing village in the
parish of Banchory-Devenick, Kincardineshire. It
is situated about 6 miles south of Aberdeen. It is
a small place, with no more consequence than other
fishing- villages on the east coast; but has acquired
celebrity for having been the original source of the
dried fish called Finnan haddocks. Population,
190. Houses, 42.
FINDON, an estate in the parish of Urquhart
and Logie-Wester, Koss-shire. It forms the eastern
part of the parish, and comprises an area of 4,214
imperial acres. It is the property of Sir James
J. E. Mackenzie, Bart. The real rental of it, a few
years ago, was .£1,766. A fine cascade of about 20
feet, in a yawning bosky gorge, occurs on the Fin-
don burn.
FINDEASSIE. Sec Spynie (New).
FINE (Loch). See Fyne (Loch).
FINELLA. See Fenella.
FINGASK, an estate in the parish of Kilspindie,
Perthshire. It belongs to Sir P. Threipland, Bart.
The rental of it, a few years ago, was £1,259. The
mansion is a castellated pile, partly ancient and
partly modern, situated in a picturesque opening in
the Gowrie hills, and commanding a very fine view.
Fingask was remarkable in the last century for the
Jacobitism of its proprietors. Sir David Threipland
was engaged in the insurrection of 1714, and his
lady entertained at this house the unfortunate Prince
for whose sake the party had taken up arms, while
on his progress from Peterhead to Perth. The
estate was consequently forfeited, and the family
for a time dispossessed of their ancient seat.
FINGASK, an estate in the parish of Daviot,
Aberdeenshire. A small enclosure on it appears to
have comprised an ancient Soman Catholic chapel
and cemetery. The present mansion is a handsome
structure, built in 1834.
FINGLANDHOPE. See Eskdalemuie.
FIN-GLEN. See Campsie.
FINHAVEN, or Findhaven, an estate, together
with other localities, in the centre of Forfarshire.
Finhaven was anciently the name of the parish of
Oathlaw; and it adheres so firmly to the popular
nomenclature of the district, and sits so undis-
putedly on at least two localities, while the word
Oathlaw is almost a stranger in its own territory,
that every one wonders at the old name having
been superseded, while no one can well assign the
reason of the change. The late proprietor and
patron of the parish, the Marquis of Huntly,
wished, with characteristic good taste, that the
ancient name should be restored. The name, in the
meantime, has uncontested possession of a hill-
range, a castle, and a hamlet. The hill-range of
Finhaven stretches along the whole of the southern
boundary of the parish of Oathlaw, and even extends
some distance on the east into the parish of Aber-
lemno; and lifts its highest summit 573 feet above
the level of the adjacent country, commanding a
rich and extensive view of the great valley of
Strathmore. On the summit of the hill is an ex-
tensive vitrified fort, in the form nearly of a par-
allelogram, about 450 long, and on the average 111
feet broad, built apparently without mortar, and so
exactly constructed according to the rules of mili-
tary art as to oversee and command every point of
access. The castle of Finhaven, now in ruins, and
exhibiting to the view only two decayed sides of
a lofty square tower, stands on the north side of
Finhaven-hill, overlooking a beautiful sweep of
Lemno-burn, and was anciently the seat of the Earl
of Lindsay and Crawford. Finhaven hamlet, or
what at present is, without any adjunct, termed
simply Finhaven, stands on the right bank of the
South Esk, at the confluence with it of Lemno-burn,
near the northern limit of the parish of Oathlaw.
Though small in itself, a considerable factory gives
it influence and importance. The estate of Fin
haven is about 5J miles in length from east to west ;
and from 1 to 2 miles broad. It is intersected by the
South Esk for about 2 miles, and by the great north
road from Edinburgh to Aberdeen for about 5 miles.
Its superficies is 4,048 imperial acres, of which 2,217
are arable, 165 in pasture or uncultivated, 723 under
wood, and 1 04 are occupied by roads and rivers.
FINK (St.), an extinct hamlet in the parish of
Bendochy, 2f miles east-north-east of Blairgowrie,
Perthshire. Here was anciently a chapel dedicated
to St. Fink; and that part of the parish which lies
eastward of the confluence of the Ericht and the
Isla, would seem to have belonged to it. The ad-
jacent houses are called the Chapel town ; and there
are also vestiges of the chapel and of the burying-
ground.
FINLAGAN (Loch), a lake about 3 miles in
circumference, in the centre of the island of Islay,
Argyleshire. It abounds with salmon and trout,
and discharges itself into the ocean at Lagan
bay, by a rivulet of the same name. On an island
within the lake are the ruins of an ancient castle,
where Macdonald, Lord of the Isles, frequently
resided, and which he made the seat of his
government.
FINLAEIG CASTLE, a mined ancient seat of
the Breadalbane family, in the parish of Killin, about
Ig- mile from the village of Killin, Perthshire. It is
a narrow, three-storey, ivy-clad building, with a
square tower at one corner, picturesque in appear
ance, and situated amid noble old trees in an un-
dulating park.
FINLASS (The), a stream of about 4J miles in
length of course, in the parish of Luss, Dumbarton-
shire. It rises at the middle of the western verge
of the parish ; runs south-westward down a glen to
which it gives the name of Glenfmlass; and enters
Loch-Lomond, below Finlass mill, opposite Ineh-
Murrin.
FINLAY'S CASTLE. See Nairn.
FINLAY'S MIEE. See MontquhITter.
FINLAYSTON. See Kilmalcolm.
FINNAN. See Findon.
FINNAN (St.), a small beautiful island in Loch-
Shiel, belonging to the parish of Ardnamurehan,
Argyleshire. Here are the ruins of the ancient
parish church; which appears to have been a small
rude edifice.
FINNAN (The), a stream of about 5 miles in
length of course, on the south-west verge of Inver-
ness-shire. It traverses a wild, narrow, rocky,
mountain glen, to which it gives the name of Glen-
finnan, and flows into the head of Loch-Shiel. The
form of the glen toward the mouth of the stream
is very uncommon. It opens in four different direc-
tions, like four gigantic streets, diverging from one
centre. A large level space of ground, at the head
of the lake, forms the common centre of these glens,
which, wild in every part, are in many points highly
picturesque. Several miles of the lake can be seen
from the top. It is here long and sinuous, —
bounded by lofty and rugged mountains, — silent,
solitary, and deserted, — its quietude seldom dis-
turbed, save by the flight of an eagle, or other bird
of prey. It was in Glen-Finnan that Prince
Charles Edward first raised his standard in 1745.
The Marquis of Tullibardine, to whom, from his
rank, was allotted the honour of unfurling the
standard, took his station on a small knoll in the
centre of the glen, where, supported by two men, he
displayed the banner, and proclaimed the Chevalier
2 T
FINNISTON.
658
FINTRY.
de St. George as King before the assembled host,
who rent the air with their acclamations. And
though the acclaiming host at the moment was not
considerable, the prospective one involved in the
proceedings was believed to be great and magnifi-
cent; so that Mr. Ay ton may not be thought bom-
bastic in describing it as,—
11 Tli e army
That around the royal standard
Gather'd on the glorious day,
When in deep Glenfinnan's valley
Thousands on their bended knees,
Saw once more that stately ensign
Waving in the northern breeze,
When the noble Tullibardine
Stood beneath its weltering fold
With the Ruddy Lion ramping
In the field of tressur'd gold I "
A monument was erected by M'Donald of Glen-
alladale, on the spot where the Prince's standard was
unfurled, to the memory of those "who fought and
bled" in the rebellion. It is a sort of tower, with
a small house attached, displaying any thing but
taste; but even as it is, it has a striking effect, when
associated with the wildness which reigns around,
and the romantic and unfortunate adventure it com-
memorates. There is an inscription on it in three
languages, — Gaelic, Latin, and English.
FINNARD-HILL. See Row.
FINNICH. See Dkymen.
FINNISTON, an edificed district in the Barony
parish of Glasgow, Lanarkshire. It is a suburb of
Glasgow, or rather a suburb of a suburb, being situ-
ated to the west of Anderston, and adjacent to the
Clyde. Population in 1841, 2,096. See Glasgow.
FINNY (The). See Dunhichen.
FINNYFELD, a village in the parish of Cru-
den, Aberdeenshire. Population, 107.
FINSTOWN, a post-office station subordinate to
Kirkwall in Orkney.
FINTKAY, a parish, containing a post-office sta-
tion of its own name, in Aberdeenshire. It is
bounded on the north-east and east by New Machar;
on the south by the river Don, which separates it
from Dyce; and on the west and north-west by
Keith-hall. It is of a triangular form, with an
apex pointing to the north, and the base extending
nearly 6 miles along the Don. Its mean breadth
is between 3 and 4, and its length from north to
south nearly 5 miles; superficial contents about
10,000 acres. The surface is not hilly, though it
rises considerably from the river. The lands in the
northern outskirts of the parish also lie low. The farms
have been thoroughly drained, and the land much
improved. There is limestonj, though not used for
manure or other purposes, and abundance of granite,
but a scarcity of fuel. On the banks of the Don
the soil is rich and fertile. The middle parts of the
parish have an inferior soil, consisting partly of
peat-moss, and partly of moor, interspersed with
patches of arable land, some of which has a strong
clay soil. The soil between these parts and the
Don is light, and of good quality; so also is that of
the northern district. There are several very good
and well-cultivated farms. In all, between 5,000
and 6,000 acres are cultivated, or occasionally in till-
age. About 300 acres are waste, and upwards of
600 acres, on Sir W. Forbes's estate of Craigievar,
and others, are covered with thriving plantations.
Numerous cattle are fed, and a few excellent horses
reared. The Don has often here overflowed its
banks, and done a great deal of damage. There
are several rivulets, the streams of which are used
as powers in working meal and barley mills. At
Cothal mills there is a manufactory of tweed and
v/oollen cloth. Fintray house, on the estate of
Craigievar, is a spacious and elegant mansion,
adorned with fine lawns and pleasure-grounds ; and
the house of Disblair is a commodious and well
planned residence. Here are vestiges of old religi-
ous buildings, said to have belonged to Lindores.
abbey, Fifeshire; and there are two cairns. The
parish enjoys ready communication with Aberdeen,
from 8 to 13 miles distant, by road and railway.
There are six considerable landowners; but by
much the most extensive is Sir W. Forbes. Tli6
real rental is about £5,000. Assessed property in
1860, £5,583. Population in 1831, 1,046; in 1861,
1,003. Houses, 192.
This parish is in the presbytery and synod of
Aberdeen. Patron, Sir W. Forbes, Bart, of Craigie-
var. Stipend, £217 9s. 3d.; glebe, £10. Unappro-
priated teinds, £107 2s. 4d. Schoolmaster's salary,
.£45, with fees, &c, £24, besides an interest in the
Dick bequest. The parish church was built in 1821,
and can accommodate nearly 800 persons. There
is in the northern district a school endowed by the
Rev. Dr. Morrison of Disblair, and yielding the
teacher a salary of £28, besides other emoluments.
FINTRY, a parish, containing a post-office village
of its own name, and likewise the villages of Go-
nochan and Clachan, a little west of the centre of
Stirlingshire. It is bounded by Killearn, Balfron,
Gargunnock, St. Ninians, Kilsyth, and Campsie.
Its length, from east to west, is about 6 miles ; its
breadth is about 5 miles ; and its area is about 20
square miles. Its surface consists chiefly of hills,
forming part of the range which stretches between
Stirling and Dumbarton, and immediately north of
the summits called the Campsie fells. The hills are
in general small, soft in their outline, finely diver-
sified in form, gaily dressed in verdure, and when
dotted over with flocks of sheep, suggesting delight-
ful thoughts of pastoral quiet and enjoyment. Two-
thirds of the parish, on the eastern side, and includ-
ing all the north, consist of three broad hilly ranges,
running east and west, with very little intervening
plain. The northern range, which is the broadest,
is called the Fintry hills. The central range is
flanked by various detached hills, which run out to
the western angle of the parish, and wear a some-
what rugged and rock}' aspect. The only inhabited
parts of the parish are the two intersecting valleys,
watered respectively by the Carron and the Endrick,
and carpeted, for the most part, with light fertile
soil. The Canon, rising in the south-west, flows 2
miles eastward, and there receives a tributary rill ol
1 J mile of course, which had flowed from its source
onward along the boundary; it now, for half-a-mile,
forms the southern boundary-line, receives another
rill from the south, and then intersects the parish
north eastward and south-eastward over a distance
of 3 miles. Along its banks is the commencement
of the Carron bog or meadow, probably the largest
level of its class in Scotland. Beginning in Fintry,
it runs eastward between the parishes of Kilsyth
and St. Ninians, to the extent of 4 miles; and being
in some places 2 miles in breadth, and in none less
than 1 mile, it comprehends an area of about 500
acres. This remarkable meadow, besides its utility
in producing hay and affording pasturage, imparts
great loveliness to the landscape which surrounds
it. In the months of July and August, it is thickly
dotted over with hay-ricks and with parties of hay-
makers; and during winter, the greater part of it
being naturally flooded by the Carron , and the rest
brought industriously under water to fertilize it for
the ensuing crop, it assumes the appearance cf a
large lake. Endrick water comes down upon the
parish from the Gargunnock hills to the north, traces
the eastern boundary for 1| mile, then abruptly
F1NTRY.
659
FIRTH.
bends and flows westward, between tlie centra] and
the northern range of hills, through the whole
breadth of the parish. Over its whole course in
this district, it is a rapid stream ; and a mile after
it has proceeded inward from the boundary, it rushes
headlong over a precipice of 94 feet in height, and
forms a superb cascade called ' The Loup of Fintry.'
In rainy weather, and particularly after a thunder-
Storm or a water-spout, this cascade is a very grand
object. The trout, with which the Endrick abounds,
are esteemed of superior quality ; and as they may
be taken in great numbers, even by an unskilful
angler, they attract numerous gentlemen of the
fishing-rod. The valley through which the stream
flows, though narrow at the east end, gradually
widens till it becomes a mile broad ; and it spreads
out before the tourist a picturesque, though limited
prospect. The cultivated fields, interrupted by
waving groves, along the banks of the river, the
hedge-rows and plantations around Culcruich on
the north side of the valley, and some well-arranged
clumps of trees on the opposite hills, form altogether
a very fine scene ; and on both sides, the view is
pent up by mountain summits, occasionally broken
and precipitous, sometimes wreathed in clouds, and
always wearing an aspect of dignity and grandeur ;
while away westward, in the distant perspective,
the towering Eeulomond looks up majestically above
the neighbouring Grampians. Near the village of
Fintry, in a hill called the Dun, is a magnificent
range of basaltic pillars. In front are 70 columns,
some of them separable into loose blocks, and others
apparently unjointed and unique from top to bottom.
They stand perpendicular to the horizon, and rise to
the height of 50 feet, — gome of them square, and
others pentagonal and hexagonal. At the east end
of the range, they are divided by interstices of 3 or
4 inches; but as the range advances, they stand in-
creasingly closer, till nothing between them but a
seam is discernible ; and they at last become blended
in one solid mass of honey-combed rock. The
mountain with which the colonnade is connected
contains veiy extensive beds of red ochre. The
chief heritors are the Duke of Montrose and Mr.
Speirs of Culcruich. The total extent of arable land
is about 1,000 acres; and of land under wood, about
! 00 acres. The real rental a few years ago was
£3,822. Assessed property in I860* £4,532. The
parish is traversed by the road from Glasgow to
Kippen. Population in 1831, 1,051; in 1861, 685.
Houses, 100.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dumbarton,
and synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the
Duke of Montrose. Stipend, £155 3s. 10d.; glebe,
£22. Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with about £12
or £15 fees. The parish church is a neat plain
building, with a tower, erected in 1823, and contain-
ing 500 sittings. There is a free school in the vil-
lage, endowed by the late Mr. John Stewart with
£3,000, and provided with a handsome commodious
schoolhouse. There are also a friendly society and
a small library.
The Village of Fixtry stands in the western
district of the parish, 16 miles west by south of Stir-
ling, 17 north of Glasgow, and 22 east by north of
Dumbarton. It is delightfully situated on a rising-
ground along the side of the Endrick, and presents
an unusually handsome appearance. The houses,
built according to a regular plan, stand in one row,
some of them of two stories surmounted by garrets ;
and, ranged on one side of the public road, they over-
look, on its other side, their respective gardens slop-
ing down to the margin of the river. A large
cotton factory was erected here about 60 vears
Lgo, and gives employment to about 260* per-
sons. A distillery also was for several years in
operation in the village, erected in 1816, and of such
extent as to distil about 70,000 gallons of whisky
annually. There is likewise in the parish a small
woollen factory. Population of the village in 1861.
about 367. — Fintry gives the title of Baron to tho
Duke of Montrose. An old castle, vestiges of which
still exist on the south side of fintry hill, was the
ancient residence of the Grahams of Fintry, and a
place of considerable military strength.
FINTEY-CASTLE, an extinct ancient edifice,
long the property of the Grahams of Fintry, in tho
Mains district of the parish of Mains and Strath-
martin, Forfarshire. It was built in 1311, had sev-
eral outworks, and seems to have been a place of
great strength. It comprised a quadrangle, with a
strong tower, perforated by a principal gate, facing
the west; had a passage over this gate, where mis-
siles could be secretly showered upon assailants; and
surmounted the steep bank of a rivulet, surrounded
and almost hidden by very lofty trees. The pro-
perty connected with it was acquired by the Gra-
hams by marriage with a daughter of the noble
house of Angus. On this property was Claverhouse,
the residence of the notorious Lord Dundee, the
persecutor of the Covenanters.
FINTEY-CLACHAN, a village in the parish of
Fintry, Stirlingshire. Population, 53.
FIE BUEN, a small tributary of the Lossie, in
the parish of Dallas, Morayshire.
F'lEDON (The), a rivulet running into the sea,
in the parish of Applecross, Eoss-shire.
FIEMOUTH, the highest mountain in the forest
of Glentanner, in Aberdeenshire. It is elevated
about 2,500 feet above the level of the sea, and
commands a prospect of Aberdeen, Montrose, and
Arbroath, with the mouth of the Tay.
FIETH and STENNESS, an united parish in
the centre of Orkney. It comprises a portion of the
Orkney mainland, extending diagonally south-south-
westward from sea to sea, and the two small islands of
Damsay and the Holm of GrimbisterofTtheeastcoast,
in an indentation of the seacalled Firth bay. Its post-
town is Kirkwall, 5 miles east-south-east of Firth
church. The parish of Firth is on the north ; and
that of Stenness is on the south. The united parish,
except where washed by the sea, is bounded by the
parishes of Harray, Eendall, Kirkwall, Orphir,
Stromness, and Sandwick. Its length is about 9
miles; and its greatest breadth is about 8 miles.
The surface presents moors and hilly ridges covered
with heath and peat-moss to the summit. An ex-
tensive and curious lake diversifies the west, and will,
together with a remarkable Draidical monument,
be found noticed in our article on Stenness. The
total extent of coast, including that of the islands,
is about 10 miles. There are three principal land-
owners, and about sixty smaller ones. The only
mansion is the house of Burness. The real rental
is about £1,310. Assessed property in 1815, £207.
Population of the united parish in 1860, 1,104; in
1861,1,493. Houses, 317. Population of Firth in
1831,560; in 1851, 692. Houses, 160-
This parish is in the presbytery of Cairston, and
synod of Orkney. Patron, the Earl of Zetland.
Stipend, £156 14s. 10d.; glebe, £23. There are two
parish churches. That of Firth was built in 1813 ;
and that of Stenness, in 1793. There are also two Free
churches. Attendance at the Firth F. church, 236,
— at the Stenness F. church, 163; sum raised in
1865, in connexion with the former, £70 19s. 10d.,
—in connexion with the latter, £24 19s. There
is an United Presbyterian church in Firth. There
is a parochial school for the united parish; and
there are two Society's schools for respectively Firth
FISHERROW.
660
FITFUL-HEAD.
and Stemiess. Parochial schoolmaster's salary,
£39. with £4 10s. other emoluments.
FISHERROW, a sea-port and fishing-town in
the parish of Inveresk, Edinburghshire. It is situ-
ated on the left bank of the Esk, in the angle or
peninsula formed by the embouchure of that river
and the frith of Forth, and forms a suburb or com-
ponent part of Musselburgh, communicating with
the main body of that town by three bridges across
the Esk. It consists of a main street, some subor-
dinate streets parallel to these, several cross-streets
or alleys, and some detached clusters of houses.
The main street runs nearly in a line with the cen-
tral thoroughfare of Musselburgh, and is continued
down to the Esk. On the north back of this is a
street called the North Back of Fisherrow. The
main street is distributed in shops, and in the dwell-
ings of the wealthier inhabitants ; and the rest of
the town is occupied almost wholly by fishermen,
and presents the untidy and repulsive appearance of
a place in paramount possession of men of their vo-
cation. Good houses and handsome villas straggle
along the coast of the Forth in the vicinity of the
town, and also surmount the rising grounds on the
south, indicating in both situations the presence,
not only of taste, but of competence and wealth.
Between part of the town and the sea is an open
area called Fisherrow links ; and at the west end of
the town is a harbour of about two acres in extent,
enclosed by stone piers, one of which has been re-
cently rebuilt. The entrance to the harbour faces
the north, is 70 feet wide, and has a depth of 10 feet
at high water spring-tides. There is a debt on the
harbour of about £7,000; and the dues levied by
authority of an act of 1840, amounts to about £812
a-year. The number of fishing-boats is about 70,
employing about 350 men and boys. The trade of
the port consists principally in timber, bark, and
coals ; and the arrivals in a recent year comprised
457 vessels, of aggregately 20,027 tons ; of which
vessels, 29 were from the colonies or foreign. Fish-
errow is under the government of the magistrates
of Musselburgh ; and, in its turn, exercises so pow-
erful a control over the affairs of that burgh, as to
return nearly one-half of its town councillors. In
consequence of its virtual identity with Musselburgh,
it looks chiefly to the east side of the Esk for its
places of worship and its schools ; yet it possesses
several of these, as well as other social appliances
of well-being, within its own bounds. The shore of
the frith contiguous to the town is extremely flat
and sandy ; but is entirely relieved, in the dulness
and monotony of its effect, by the rich and exuber-
ant exhibitions of the territory which rises gently
upward from the southern limits of the town.
Fisherrow — as its name imports — is, in its main
features, a fishing-town ; and it presents the fea-
tures of a beau-ideal of whatever is at once hardy,
weather-beaten, and contemptuous of civilized re-
finements, in a sea-faring and fish-catching life.
Almost constantly it exhibits men in a slovenly
dress, making their way from a long sleepless ex-
cursion at sea to their homes, or from a hastily
abandoned repose to their fishing boats, and groups
of females and children in a disgusting condition of
filth and indolence. The women, however, both
wives and daughters, share largely in the labours
of the fishery, and are so industrious, athletic, and
singular a race, as to have drawn considerable ob-
servation and surprise. They gather baits for the
use of the men, and fasten baits on the lines used
in fishing. But, chief of all their labours, they carry
the produce of the fishery in osier baskets or creels
to Edinburgh, and drive hard bargains with the
citizens. The boatmen of Fisherrow, however, do
not always themselves catch the fish which theii
wives carry to Edinburgh. When haddocks — which
are one of the most abundant and favourite sorts of
the produce of the fishery — are scarce on the Lothi-
an coast, the Fisherrow boatmen are accustomed to
meet boats from the east end of Fife, half-way down
the frith, and to purchase their fish ; and they thus
keep their wives in full employment, even when
their own fishing-grounds yield an incompetent
produce. From the kind of life these women lead,
their manners and character may naturally be ex-
pected to have marked peculiarities. Having so
great a share in the work of maintaining their
families, they wield quite a masculine sway; aud
when speaking of a young woman reported to be on
the point of marriage, they may be heard to say,
' Hoot ! how can she keep a man who can hardly
maintain herself? ' As they do the work of men,
their manners, and even their amusements, are mas-
culine. On holidays, they used to play at golf;
and on Shrove Tuesday, there was a standing match
at football, between the married and the unmarried
women, in which the former were generally victors.
Their mode of life and their business habits whet
their faculties, and give them great dexterity in
bargaining. They have likewise a species of rude
eloquence, — an extreme facility in expressing their
feelings by words or gestures, — which is very im-
posing, and often enables them to carry their point
against even the most wary ; nor do they feel abash-
ment, or seem to suffer any shame of detection,
when an inexperienced purchaser discovers an at-
tempt on their part to extort from him thrice the
value of his goods. Yet, though accustomed to ask
far more than their fish is worth, and to practise
extortion whenever they can, they possess a sort of
savage honesty on which reliance may be placed.
When they have regular customers, who form a
sort of acquaintance with them, and express a con-
fidence that they will furnish articles as cheap and
good as can be obtained in the market, they seldom
or never fail, in such cases, to act honourably; and,
in their transactions with the shopkeepers of Edin-
burgh, whom they sometimes supply with herrings,
they practise unimpeachable fairness of dealing.
Though, too, they seriously and revoltingly indulge
in licentiousness of speech, they are believed to be,
as a class, exemplarily chaste in their conduct.
FISHERTON, a fishing-hamlet in the parish of
Maybole, Ayrshire. Here was commenced about
35 years ago a preaching-station in connexion with
the Established church ; and out of this arose a
chapel of ease, the presentation to which is vested
in the communicants.
FISHERTON, Banffshire. See Cullen.
FISHERTON, Inverness-shire. See Connaqe.
FISHIE (Glen). See Beaemae.
FISHLIN, a small island 6 miles south of Yell, in
Shetland.
FISH-HOLM, one of the Shetland isles, constitut-
ing part of the parish of Delting. It is situated in
the north-east of the parish, in Yell sound.
FISHWICK, an ancient parish, now compre-
hended in the parish of Hutton, in Berwickshire.
The church, which stood on the northern bank of
the Tweed, below the village, is now in ruins. It
formerly belonged to the monks of Coldingham. It
is 6 miles west-south-west of Berwick. See Hut-
ton.
FITFUL-HEAD, a bold large headland, in the
south-west of the parish of Dunrossness, in Shetland,
It flanks the west side of Quendal bay, 6 miles
north-west of Sumburgh-head. It consists of a large
assemblage of strata composed of clay slate. It
rises 400 feet perpendicularly out of the ocean, aud
FITHIE
ClU
FLEET.
is seen at a great distance by vessels approaching
from the south-west. At Gauhsness near Fitful-head,
occurs a vein ov perhaps bed of iron-pyrites, which
was a number of years ago unsuccessfully wrought
for the purpose of finding copper-ore, whilst many
hundred tons of iron-pyrites were thrown into the
sea.
FITHIE (Loch), a beautiful lake, about a mile
in circumference, in the parish of Forfar, Forfar-
shire. See Forfar.
FITHIE (The), a small river in Forfarshire. It
rises on the south side of the hill of Bockello, in the
parish of Glammis. After flowing, first eastward
and then southward, over a distance of nearly 2
miles, it resumes its original direction, and over a
distance of 3§ miles divides the parishes of Strath-
martine, Mains, and Murroes on the south, from the
parish of Tealing on the north. It now runs 2
miles south-eastward, dividing the detached part of
the parish of Dundee on the north from the parish
of Murroes on the south, and traversing part of the
latter parish. It then turns suddenly round to the
southward, and after a run of 1^ mile, forms in the
parish of Dundee, a confluence with Dighty water,
1£ mile above the disembognement of the latter
stream in the frith of Tay. Its entire course, from
its origin to its junction with the Dighty, is about
9 miles. At and near its embouchure, in the parish
of Dundee, it makes valuable alluvial deposits,
which form rich holm-lands on its banks.
FITTY-HILL. See Westkay.
FITTY-LOCH. See Beath.
FIVE-MILE-HOUSE, a post-office station sub-
ordinate to Dundee, Forfarshire.
FLADDA, an island in the parish of Portree,
Inverness-shire. It lies 4J miles east of the nearest
part of Skye, and is separated by a narrow strait
from the north-west point of Rasay. It is 2 miles
in length, and half-a-mile in breadth. The strait
betwixt it and Rasay is drv at half-tide. Popula-
tion in 1841, 29 ; in 1861, 45. Houses, 11.
FLADDA, an island in the parish of South Uist,
Inverness-shire. It lies about 2J miles south-east
of the nearest part of North Uist, and 3J miles north-
east of the nearest part of Benbecula. It lies con-
tiguous to Eona, and measures about 4J miles in
circumference. Population in 1841, 53; in 1861,
48. Houses, 7.
FLADDA, a small island in the Hebridean parish
of Barra, Inverness-shire. It lies about 2 miles
south of Vatersay. Population in 1841, 7; in 1861, 7.
FLADDA, one of the Treshinish isles, near the
Isle of Mull, Argyleshire. Its surface is flat and
monotonous.
FLADDA, a large flat islet in the district of
Harris, Inverness-shire ; at the entrance of Loch
Kesort.
FLADDA, a small pastoral island, without any
human inhabitants, oft' the east coast of the parish
of Kilrnuir, 4J miles south-east of Aird-point, in
Sk_ve.
FLADDA- CHUAIN, a small pastoral island, off
the north coast of the parish of Kilmuir, 6 miles
north-west of Aird-point, in Skye. It measures J
of a mile in length, and 300 yards in average breadth.
It is carpeted with remarkably fine grass, and was
formerly inhabited by a family or two who kept a
considerable portion of it in tillage. It was anciently
the site of a Druidical place of worship. There were
also in less ancient times three burying-places on
it ; one of which still bears a name signifying the
Monks' burving-place.
FLANDERS MOSS, an extensive tract of low,
flat ground in the valley of the Forth, on the borders
of Perthshire and Stirlingshire. It extends from
the north-east of the parish of Drymen, all the way
eastward to the vicinity of Stirling, and is computed
to comprise an area of about 10,000 acres. The
motis upon it is believed to have originated in the
overthrow of a great forest by the Roman army in
file time of Severus; but a large portion of it has, in
modem times, been the scene of very remarkable
and most enriching georgic improvements. See
Perthshire and Blair- Drummond.
FLANNAN or Flannel Isles, a group of seven
small uninhabited islands, in the Hebridean parish
of Uig, Ross-shire. They lie about 15 miles north-
west of Gallan-head in Lewis. They contain some
remains of Druidical temples, and are supposed to
have been the residence of Druidical priests. They
are the resort of immense flocks of sea-fowl. Dr.
M'Culloch says, — " I have often been entertained
with the extraordinary concerts of the sea fowl in
Ailsa, in the Shiant isles, and elsewhere; but I never
heard any orchestra so various and so perfect as one
in the Flannan isles, which seemed to consist of al-
most all the birds that frequent the seas and rocks
of these wild coasts. I should perhaps do injustice
to the performers, did I attempt to assign the parts
which each seemed to take in this concert; but it
was easy to distinguish the short shrill treble of the
puffins and auks, the melodious and varied notes of
the different gulls, the tenors of the divers and
guillemots, and the croaking basses of the cormo-
rants. But the variety of tones was far beyond my
powers of analysis, as, I believe, Pennant had found
it before me. It may appear ludicrous to call this
music melodious, or to speak of the harmony formed
by such ingredients ; yet it is a combination of
sounds to which a musician will listen with interest
and delight, although the separate cries of the dif-
ferent individuals are seldom thought agreeable.
Few of the notes in this concert could, perhaps, have
been referred to the scale, if separately examined ;
yet the harmony was often as full and perfect as ii
it had been the produce of well-tuned instruments,
and the effect was infinitely superior to that which
is often heard in a spring morning among the sing-
ing birds of the forest, while it was so entirely dif
ferent as not to admit of any comparison. In the
sea-birds there are few tones and few notes, but they
are decided and steady. The body of sound is also
far greater; and however inferior in variety or
sweetness the notes of the individuals may be, there
is much more variety in the harmonious combina-
tions, and in that which musicians would call the
contrivance and design. Very often they reminded
me of some of the ancient religious compositions,
which consist of a perpetual succession of fugue and
imitation on a few simple notes, and sometimes it
appeared as if different orchestras were taking up
the same phrases. Occasionally the whole of the
sounds subsided, like those of the -<Eolian harp as
the breeze dies awa}*, being again renewed on the
excitement of some fresh alarm. In other places I
have heard similar concerts performed among
colonies of gulls alone ; and with a variety and
effect still more surprising, when the limited tones
and powers of this tribe are considered. On one of
these occasions, at Noss Head, in Shetland, I could
scarcely avoid imagining that I was listening to a
portion of Rossini's ' Barbiere di Siviglia,' ' Mi par
d'esser colla testa in un orrida fucina,' so exact was
the rhythm, as well as the air and the harmony."
FLAWCRAIG, a village in the parish of "Kin-
naird, Perthshire. Population, 44. Houses, 9.
FLEET (The), a river in the western division of
Kirkcudbrightshire. It consists of two main parent-
streams, called Big water of Fleet and Little water
of Fleet. The Big water, though the greater of the
FLEET.
662
FLISK.
two in name, is the lesser in length ; and rises in four
small streams of nearly equal claim to be the head-
water. Two of these issue respectively from the
south and from the north side of Cairnsmuir, in the
parish of Kirkmabreck ; the third, called Mid-Bura,
issues from Craig-Ronal, and forms from its source
onward the boundary-line between Kirkmabreck
and Girthon; the fourth issues from Bengea, near
the source of Little Fleet ; and all unite about 2 J
miles from their several sources, and thenceforth
pursue their united course, 4J miles, in a direction
east of south, dividing Kirkmabreck and Anwoth on
the west, from Girthon on the east, till a confluence
is formed with the Little water of Fleet near Castra-
mount. The Little water of Fleet has justly the
reputation of being the parent-stream of the united
rivulets, and issues from Loch Fleet, which is about
1J mile in circumference, situated not far from the
northern limit of the parish of Girthon, and fed by
two short rills flowing into it from the north. The
Little water of Fleet, after pursuing a course of 1J
mile south-eastward, runs almost due south, over a
distance of 6 miles, traversing the parish of Girthon,
till it unites with the Big water of Fleet. Nearly
at their point of junction, the two Fleets receive
from the east the tribute of Carstramman burn;
and thenceforth Fleet water which they form, pur-
sues a course a little to the east of south, dividing
the parishes of Anwoth and Girthon, till it sweeps
past the small town of Gatehouse on its left bank ;
and it then bends round to a direction west of south,
and, after traversing a space of 1J mile, suddenly
expands into an estuary 3J miles in length, and 1
mile in average breadth. The Highlands of Scot-
land have no scenes of greater beauty than what
the vale of the Fleet displays; and they have
hardly any wilder than the hills among which
both branches of the river take their rise. The
basin of the Fleet, for a good many miles above
Gatehouse, is exquisitely fine. Hough, heath-clad
hills, indeed, overlook the stream on both sides ; but
declivities and plains, opulent in soil, ornate in til-
lage, and plentiful in groves, form its immediate
banks. The river, immediately after the confluence
of its Big and its Little streams, flows past a hand-
some hunting-seat of the proprietor of the lands on
its left bank ; and soon after, it leaves, on its right
bank, the tower of Eusco, once a seat of the Vis-
counts of Kenmore. The river is, at Gatehouse,
spanned by a handsome bridge ; and is navigable
thither by small vessels, and enriches the territory
along its banks by a plentiful supply of salmon.
FLEET (The), a stream of the south-east 6f
Sutherlandshire. It rises in several head-waters in
the south-east of the parish of Lairg, and runs about
13 miles south-eastwtrrd, partly through the parish
of Eogart, and partly on the boundary between the
parishes of Golspie and Dornoch, to the sea at Little
Ferry. The upper and the middle parts of its course
are along a fine glen, to which it gives the name
of Strathfleet, and which will be described in our
article on Rogart. The greater part of its course
between Golspie and Dornoch forms an expansion,
called Loch Fleet, about 4J miles in length and 1,500
imperial acres in area. This expansion is a lagoon
or estuary, swept by the tide, of similar character
to the lagoons of the South Esk and the Findhorn ;
and it contracts to a kind of neck, of comparatively
proper river limits, a brief distance from the sea.
There was formerly a ferry on the neck, taking
across the thoroughfare along the coast northwards
from Dornoch ; but the public road is now carried
across the loch by an embankment or mound of 995
yards in length, which, with the roads of approach
to it, cost £12,500. At the east end of the mound
are placed 4 arches, with sluices, by which the
water of Fleet, and occasional land-floods, pour to
the sea at low water. Strathfleet extends into a
district so nigged and mountainous that no other
practicable pass could be discovered ; that through
Strathcarnoc being at such an elevation as to be
liable to obstruction from snow during the winter
months. About 400 acres of land have been re-
claimed from the sea by this mound. The mouth
of the loch serves as a harbour at about a mile from
the sea. The harbour is about 260 yards broad, has
about 18 feet of depth at ebb tide, and affords per-
fect shelter in any weather. The depth of water
over the bar at the embouchure of the river is about
18 feet at full spring tide and 4 J feet at ebb tide.
The harbour serves for the importation of coals,
lime, bone-dust, and general merchandise, and for
the exportation of agricultural and distillery pro-
duce.
FLEMINGTON, a district comprising two estates,
and containing a lake, on whose tanks are traces of
a Flemish camp, in the parish of Petty, Invemess-
shire. The district formerly formed one estate,
which was conjoined with Kilravock, and belonged
to the Earl of Moray.
FLEMINGTON BURN, a tributary of the Lyne,
of about 4J miles length of run, in the parish of
Newlands, Peebles-shire.
FLEURS or Fi.ooks Castle, the family mansion
of the Duke of Roxburgh, situated on the left bank
of the river Tweed, a mile above the town of Kelso.
It is a magnificent pile, " combining," says Sir
Walter Scott, " the ideas of ancient grandeur with
those of modern taste." But Sir Walter Scott saw
only the attractions impressed on it, at its erection,
in 1718, by the architectural skill of Sir John Van-
brugh ; and must have spoken of it with enthusiasm
could he have beheld the additional polish which
has been given it, and the additional decora-
tions with which it has been beautified, by Mr.
Playfair of Edinburgh. Adjoining it is a handsome
conservatory, erected by the late Duke James, and
containing a choice collection of rare and valuable
plants. The old gardens ran down into the town of
Kelso, and occasioned the rasure of a considerable
part of one of the principal streets, in order to obtain
sufficient space for their expansion. The new gardens
lie nearer the castle, stretching along its west side,
and are laid out on a grand scale, with united taste
and splendour. The delightfully wooded and pic-
turesque demesne forms, for a considerable distance,
the skirting of the joyous waters of the Tweed, and
runs away from them inland over undulating
grounds, constituting, with the ducal mansion in
its centre, so lovely a landscape that a spectator
from Kelso bridge, or from the heights on the right
bank of the river, feels as if a revelation were before
him of some nook of an unfallen world.
FLINT-HILL, a summit, with an elevation of
1,621 feet above sea-level, in the parish of Stobo,
Peebles-shire.
FLISK, a parish on the northern sea-board of
Fifeshire. It lies 3 miles east of Newburgh, and 8
north-west by north of Cupar. It is bounded by the
frith of Tay, and by the parishes of Balmerino,
Criech, Dunbog, and Abdie. It is rather more than
4 miles in length, from east to west; but is only
about a mile in breadth, except at the western ex-
tremity, where its breadth is about 1J mile. The
surface, for about J of a mile from the Tay, is
nearly level or but slightly rising; it then rises
rapidly, so as to comprise part of the hill-range
which flanks the frith, attaining here an extreme
elevation of about 750 feet; and it finally subsides
once more into a valley on the southern skirts of its
FLOAT.
6G3
FOCHABERS,
broadest parts. About 2,120 acres are under culti-
vation, 134 in natural pasture, and 264 under wood.
Tlie only village is the small one of Glcnduckie.
There are three principal landowners, — all non-
resident. There are 3 small quarries, and 5 or 6
salmon fishing stations. The yearly value of raw
agricultural produce was estimated in 1837 at
£7,743. Assessed property in 1866, £3,666 16s. 3d.
Population in 1831, 2S6; in 1861, 313. Houses, 69.
The barony of Ballanbreich, comprising the
western part of Flisk, or as it is usually pronounced
Bambrcich, originally formed part of the great lord-
ship of Abernethy. This extensive barony remained
for nearly 500 years in the family of Rothes, and
was purchased from them by Sir Lawrence Dundas,
grandfather of the first Earl of Zetland. The castle
of Bambreich is a large and very fine ruin, pictur-
esquely situated on a steep bank overhanging the
Tay, surrounded by a number of fine trees, and
forms a noble object in the landscape as seen from
the frith. It appears originally to have been a par-
allelogram, 180 feet in length by 70 in breadth, with
a court-yard in the centre. Three of the sides of
the court-yard were formed by the buildings of the
castle, which were four stories high; while the
fourth side was formed by a high wall or curtain,
connecting the north and south sides of the castle
togethe". The whole of the doors to the different
parts of the building opened into the court-yard;
and the principal entrance to the whole seems to
have been on the north. When inhabited, it was
surrounded by a ditch or moat, the traces of which,
though pretty distinct some years ago, are now
nearly effaced. This once magnificent castle has
suffered sad ravages from time, but greater still from
the depredations of man; as it long formed a con-
venient quarry for those who had buildings to erect,
either in its own neighbourhood, or on the opposite
banks of the Tay. There is sufficient remaining of
its original height, however, to show what its ex-
tent and grandeur once were. The oldest portion
appears to be that which forms the western side of
tie parallelogram ; and the southern side, although
much dilapidated, to be the most recent. From the
beauty of the ashlar work of the walls remaining,
i: is not likely that any portion is as ancient as the
time when the barony was acquired by Sir Andrew
ce Lesly; yet the oldest portion cannot be much
more recent. The Earls of Eothes, the descend-
ants of Sir Andrew de Lesly, long resided here; and
•hey take from the barony the title of Baron Ballan-
oreich. Contiguous to the east side of the ruins,
md within the remaining plantation, is Chapel-hill,
where anciently stood a place of worship.
Flisk is in the presbytery of Cupar and synod of
Fife. Patron, the Earl of Zetland. Stipend, £151
lis.; grass glebe, £1 13s. 4d. Schoolmaster's sal-
ary, £52 10s., with £10 fees. The parish church
was built in 1790, and contains 153 sittings. There
is a Free church for Flisk and Creich ; whose re-
ceipts in 1865 were £96 14s. 3d. The church of
Flisk was anciently a parsonage, the patronage of
which was laic, and pertained to the earldom of
Rothes. John Waddell, parson of Flisk, was one
of the early judges of the Court of session. His
name first appears as a judge in the sederunt of
court, 8th May, 1534. Little else is known of this
clergyman, except that he was, in 1527, rector of
the university of St. Andrews, and as such one of
the judges who condemned Patrick Hamilton to
death. James Balfour, his successor in the parson-
age of Flisk, was also a judge of the Court of ses-
sion, under the title of Lord Pittendreich.
FLOAT (Bay of), or Pom -Float, a small bay in
the parish of Stonykirk, 6 miles south-east' by
south of Portpatrick, Wigtonshire. It takes its
name from a tradition that some of the vessels o(
the Spanish armada or " flota " were wrecked on it.
FLOAT-MOSS, a large extent of low marsh and
wet holm on the banks of the Clyde, in the parishes
of Carstairs, Carnwath, and Pettinain, Lanarkshire.
It is frequently overflooded, so as to resemble at
times a large lake, with flat banks and dreary
scenery. The Caledonian railway goes across it,
on works which were formed at great expense, and
has here timber viaducts for allowing free scope to
the river in its freshets. A float or large boat,
which cost £500, was formerly a succedaneum for
a bridge here, and gave rise to the name of Float-
Moss.
FLODDA. See Fladda.
FLOORS CASTLE. See Fleurs Castle.
FLOORS HILLS, a range of eminences, of inter-
esting character, hut of no great height or extent,
in the parish of Avondale, Lanarkshire.
FLOSH. See Cummertrees.
FLOTA, a parish comprehending the inhabited
islands of Flota, Pharay, and the uninhabited islands
of Flota-Calf, Switha, and Little, Rysay, in the south
of Orkney. It is united to Walls, which see. It
lies wholly between Scalpa Flow on the north and
the Pentland frith on the south. The island of Flota
lies at nearly equal distances from the nearest part
of South Ronaldshay on the east and the nearest
part of Hoy island on the west. Its length south-
south-westward is about 3 miles, and its greatest
breadth is about 3 miles. It is mostly encom-
passed with high rocks. Its heaths afford ex-
cellent sheep-pasture, and abound with moor-fowl.
Tts general surface is low; but in several places
there are cliffs upon the shore of considerable height.
It is entirely composed of sandstone and sandstone-
flag. It was the. residence of the historiographer ap-
pointed by the crown of Norway to collect informa-
tion with regard to the north of Scotland; whose nar-
rations formed a work called ' Codex Flotticensis ; '
to which Torfanis is indebted for much of his history
of the northern parts of Scotland. There is an ex-
cellent harbour in the island, called Panhope, from
a salt-pan which was formerly worked here. The
parish of Flota has a church for itself, with about
180 sittings, which is served by an ordained mis-
sionary under the auspices of the society for Pro-
pagating Christian Knowledge. Population of Flota
parish in 1841, 460; in 1861, 465. Houses, 90.
Population of Flota island in 1S41, 405; in 1861,
420. Houses, S2.
FLOTA-CALF, a pastoral island about 2 miles
in circumference, adjacent to the north-eastern ex-
tremity of the island of Flota, in Orkney.
FLOWERDALE. See Gairloch.
FOCHABERS, a small post-town and burgh of
barony, in the parish of Bellie, Morayshire. It
stands on the right bank of the Spey, 9 miles north-
west of Keith, 9 south-east by east of Elgin, 12
south-west of Cullen, and 52 east of Inverness. Its
site is an elevated gravel terrace, in a deep rural
valley a few hundred yards from the Spey. It
formerly stood in the immediate vicinity of Gordon
castle; but, like the burgh of Cullen, it was removed
to a more respectful distance from the mansion of
its superior. It now occupies a site about a mile
south of its former locality, in the line of the North
road from Edinburgh to Inverness. It has a square
in the centre, and streets entering it in a cruciform
manner, at right angles. Exteriorly, its form is that
of a parallelogram, the sides of which consist of
thatched cottages. There are other streets, or cross
lanes, of good nouses; and altogether Fochabers is
not only a pretty little town, but a thriving and a
FODDERTY.
664
FOGO.
rapidly increasing one. It has several good inns;
and, on one side of the central square, is the Estab-
lished church of the parish, a modem edifice, with
a portico and a neat spire. The town also contains
a Free church, an Episcopalian chapel, and an ex-
tremely elegant Roman Catholic chapel. It like-
wise has a splendid suite of free schools, founded
by bequest of about £20,000 by Alexander Mylne, a
native of the town, who died in America. These
schools were opened with great ceremony in 1846;
and they are conducted by a rector and three other
teachers. There is also a girls' school; but the
parochial school, which formerly was here, has
been removed to Bogmore. Fochabers is governed
by a bailie, appointed by the Duke of Richmond.
A sheriff small debt court is held on the Saturday
following the second Monday of February, June,
and October. The town is lighted with gas. It
has a subscription library, a savings' bank, an office
of the Union bank, and offices of two insurance
lompanies. A corn market is held weekly on Thurs-
day; and fairs or cattle-markets are held on the
third Wednesday of January, the fourth Wednes-
day of March, the fourth Wednesday of May, the
second Wednesday of August, the fourth Wednes-
day of October, and the fourth Wednesday of De-
cember. The ancient cross of Fochabers stands
within the Duke of Richmond's park. Over the
Spey in the vicinity of the town is a handsome three-
arched bridge, 382 feet in length. This bridge was
damaged, and indeed partly destroyed, in the great
floods of 1829, when the Spey rose nearly 9 feet
above its ordinary level. Population of Fochabers,
in 1861, 1,149.
FODDERTY, a mountainous parish in the coun-
ties of Ross and Cromarty. It contains the post-
office station of Strathpeffer, and the villages of
Auchterneid, Keithtown, and Maryburgh. Its prin-
cipal part is a valley surrounded on the north, west,
and south, with high hills, and intersected through
its whole length by the small river Peffer, from
which it derives the name of Strathpeffer. This
valley is 4 miles in length, and half-a-mile broad;
but the total extent of the parish is 9 miles from east
to west, by 15 from north to south. It is bounded
by Kincardine and Kiltearn on the north, by Ding-
wall on the east, by Urray on the south, and by
Contin on the west. A part of Benwyvis is in it ;
and in the opposite or south side of the valley is the
celebrated Knockfarril with its ancient British hill-
fort. See the articles SiRATnrEFFER, Benwyvis,
and Knockfarril. To the south of Knockfarril is
Loch Ussie, which contains several small islands.
On the west side of the strath is Castle Leod, an
ancient seat of the Earls of Cromarty. It is a strong
edifice of red sandstone, five stories in height, and
surrounded with fine old trees. There are in Strath-
peffer several chalybeate and sulphureous springs,
which are resorted to for stomachic complaints.
The most extensive estate is that of Cromarty ; and
there are six others. The value of assessed property
in 1860 was £7,538. Population in 1831, 2,232; in
1861, 2,247. Houses, 465.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dingwall and
synod of Ross. Patron, the Marchioness of Strafford.
Stipend, £255 8s. 9d.; glebe, £14. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50, with about £20 fees. The parish
church was built in 1807, and enlarged in 1835,
and contains 640 sittings. There is a chapel
of ease at Maryburgh; the presentation to which
belongs to the, Hon. Misses Mackenzie of Seafortli.
There is a Free church for Fodderty and Contin:
attendance, 700; sum raised in 1S65, £131 4s. lid.
There is also a Free church at Maryburgh: attend-
ance, 470; sum raised in 1854, £08 14s. 104.il.
There are in the parish a Gaelic school, an Assem-
bly's school, and a Free church school.
FOFFARTY. See Kinnettles.
FOGO, a parish in the central part of the Merso
district of Berwickshire. It contains a hamlet or
small kirktown of its own name, on the Blackadder,
3 J miles south-south-west of Dunse, which is the post-
town. It is bounded by Edrom, Swinton, Eccles,
Greenlaw, and Polwarth. Its greatest length, east-
ward, is 5 miles; and its greatest breadth is some
what less than 2J miles. The southern division is
a plain ; and the northern consists of two ridges of
inconsiderable heights, the most elevated of which
rises probably not more than 100 feet above sea-
level. The ridges are separated by Blackadder
water; and the southern one slopes gradually away
into the plain of the southern division. The entire
surface, with the exception of about 300 acres which
are under plantation, and about 40 acres of natural
pasture, has been turned up by the plough, and is
in a state of high cultivation. On the higher grounds
the soil is a deep black loam, very fertile; and on
the plain it is, though thinner and lying on a stiff
subsoil of till, very far from being unproductive.
The Blackadder enters the parish on the south-west ;
traverses it north-eastward over a distance of 3
miles ; and then, for 1 J mile, divides it from Edrom.
Though destitute of salmon, it produces eels and
excellent trout. Its basin is a sort of huge furrow,
seldom closing in upon the river in steepness of
banks, yet forming a hollow between parallel ranges
of low heights ; and having the church immediately
on the margin of the stream, it suggested to the
early colonists the name Fog-hou, which is the an-
cient and legitimate form of the word Fogo, and
means the foggage pit, den, or hollow. In the few
places where the banks are abrupt are strata of till
mixed with clay or marl, and superincumbent on
petrifactions of moss; and in the channel of the
stream, which is in general stony and gravelly, ara
occasional strata of bastard whinstone and limestone,
which are easily quarried, and make excellent coveiK
for drains. At Chesters, near the south-western
boundary, are faint yet decisive traces of a Roman
encampment. The parish is intersected by the
roads from Dunse to Coldstream and Kelso. Tie
lands are distributed into four estates, which vaiy
in rental from about £150 to upwards of £3,000. Tha
value of assessed property in 1865 was £7,202 2s. 8d.
The average yearly value of raw produce was esti-
mated in 1834 at £20,067. Population in 1831, 433:
in 1861, 559. Houses, 101.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dunse, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £219 5s. 10d.; glebe, £18 10s. Unappro-
priated teinds, £188 18s. 2d. Schoolmaster's salary,
£53, with about £20 school-fees. The parish church
is an old building, repaired in 1817, enlarged in
1853, and containing 260 sittings. Fogo parish is
ancient, and, under David I., belonged to the opulent
Earls of Dunbar. In 1147, the monks of Kelso ob
tained a grant of the church, along with some ap
purtenanees, from Earl Gospatrick; and they re-
tained possession of it, and had it served by a vicar,
till the Reformation. In 1253 the monks obtained
a grant also of a chapel which had been built on
the manor of Fogo ; and, in consideration of accom-
panying gifts of property, were bound over to pro-
vide for its service either three monks or three
secular chaplains. In 1296, the vicar of Fogo sworo
fealty to Edward of England, and, in return, was
reinstated in his vicarage.
FOLLART (Loch). See Duirinish.
FOODIE. See Dairsie.
FOODIECASIT. See Daiusie.
FOPACIIY.
6G5
FORDOUN.
FOOTDKE. See Aberdeen.
FOPACHY, a landing-place for vessels, but with-
out any proper harbour, on the south side of the
Beauly frith, within the parish of Kirkhill, Inver-
ness-shire.
FORBES, a parish and a post-office station, on
the north bank of the Don, 26A miles west-north-
west of Aberdeen, Aberdeenshire. The parish is
united to Tullynessi.e: which see.
FORD, a post-office village on the road from
Edinburgh to Lauder, in Edinburghshire, so curi-
ously situated as, though tiny in dimensions, to oc-
cupy a place in the three parishes of Borthwick,
Crichton, and Cranston. The village stands on the
banks of the Tyne, 10J miles south-east of Edin-
burgh. At a former date, it was prosperous and
beautiful, quietly and thriftily embosomed in a small
valley, which secludes it from the bustling activities
of life ; but latterly it has fallen considerably into
decay, and rejoices more in the loveliness of the
landscape than in the prosperity of its condition.
A splendid bridge or viaduct here stretches across
the vale of the Tyne. Fairs are held on the first
Thursday of August and September. An United
Presbyterian church, built in 1851, stands in the
Cranston section of the village; and a predecessor
of it stood in the Borthwick section.
FORD-LOCH-AWE, a post-office station subor-
dinate to Loehsilphead, Are;yleshire.
FORD op PITCUR, a village in the parish of
Kettins, in the vicinity of Cupar-Angus, on the
south-west border of Forfarshire. Population, 45.
Houses, 11.
FORDARROCH. See Daviot and Duni.ichity.
FORDEL. See Dalgett.
FORDEL-SQUARE, a village in the parish of
Daln:ety, Fifeshire. Population, 157. Houses, 26.
FORDOUN, a parish, containing a post -office sta-
tion of its own name, also the post-office village of
Auchiublae. in Kincardineshire. It is bounded by
Strachan, Glenbervie, Arbuthnot, Laurencekirk,
Marykirk, and Fettercairn. Its greatest length, west-
ward, is about 10 miles; its greatest breadth is about 7
miles, and its area is about 4-1 square miles. It extends
along the southern side of the Grampians, and the
northern side of Strathmore, comprising two divisions,
named ' the How district,' and ' the Brae district ; '
the latter of which, to the north, consists of a range
of glens or valleys, watered by rivulets, fringed,
more or less, with picturesque strips of plantation,
but possessing a thin soil, far inferior in fertility to
the southern or ' How ' district. The latter is
level; the soil consisting either of excellent brown
gravelly loam or red ferruginous clay. It is highly
cultivated, and presents a rich and fertile aspect.
The arable lands amount to nearly 12,000 acres;
and no part of the parish can be called waste, except
the summits of the mountains ; for the Grampians
themselves afford pasturage to numerous flocks of
sheep, and the subordinate ridges consist of valuable
land. The most conspicuous of these subordinate
ridges is Fenella hill, which is completely apart
from the Grampians, being separated from them by
a valley called Strath-fenella; and this hill is the
object designated in the name of the parish, or gave
rise to that, name, the word Fordoun or Fordun sig-
nifying " the anterior or prominent hill." The only
stream of any note is the Luther, into which several
small streams empty themselves. The Luther rises
amongst the hills north of Drumtochty, and runs
east and then south through the romantic vicinity
of Drumtochty castle, and by Auchiublae and the
wooded banks near Fordoun kirk, to the parish of
Laurencekirk. The river Bervie also rises, by nu-
merous feeders, from the Grampians, in the northern
district of this parish, and running eastward to the
boundary, divides it from the parishes of Glenbervie
and Arbuthnot, to the point where Garvock parish
meets a point of Fordoun, between Laurencekirk
and Arbuthnot. The principal landowners are the
Earl of Kintore, Viscount Arbuthnot, Sir John
Stuart Forbes, Bart., and nine others. The real
rental in 1855 is £12,533. Assessed property in
1866, £19,438 6s. Id. Yearly value of raw produce
in 1837, £41,518. Population in 1831, 2,238; in
1861, 2,297. Houses, 460
In the western part of the parish are vestiges of
the ancient county town and regal castle of Kin-
cardine. See articles Kincardine and Castleton
op Kincardine. On the west flank of Fenella hill,
overlooking the Fordoun rivulet, is an artificial
mound which has been variously regarded as a Cale-
donian or Pietish fort, and as the vestige of a castle
of Fenella. See Fenella's Castle. John of For
doun, author of the Scotichronicon, one of the oldest
and most authentic histories of Scotland, was in-
cumbent of this parish in 1377. George Wishart,
the illustrious Protestant martyr, was a native of
Fordoun ; and a beautiful monument to his memory,
comprising a granite column, with large pedestal,
flaming urn, and a spiral inscription, was recently
erected in Fordoun church-yard. This parish also
gave birth to Lord Monboddo, — a man well known in
the literary world by his peculiar writings on ancient
metaphysics, and on the origin and progress of the
human species and of language. Monboddo house
is a respectable oldmansion in the parish, surrounded
with fine trees. Near the mansion-house of For-
doun there are distinct vestiges of the praatorium of
a Roman encampment ; and, in Friars' glen, beside
Fenella hill, are the ruins of a Carmelite religious
house. On the Drumtochty estate is a splendid
modern mansion, in the castellated Gothic style,
erected at the cost of about £30,000, after designs
by Gillespie Graham ; and on the Phesdo estate
stands another elegant mansion, built also at great
expense, with Aberdeen granite, in the Grecian
style, with fluted Doric portico. — On the top of a
precipitous and wooded eminence, overhanging the
sequestered and romantic glen through -which the
Luther runs, and opposite Auchiublae, stands the
kirk-town of Fordoun, consisting principally of the
church, the churchyard, the manse, and the village
inn. It is 5 miles north-north-east of Laurencekirk,
but shares closely in the advantages of Auchinblae :
which see. It is the seat of a presbytery, and has
the privilege of holding a weekly market for cattle
and horses from Michaelmas to Christmas, with two
annual fairs ; one of which is called ' Paldy fair,'
from Palladius; for here, according to the monkish
tradition, did that holy saint establish his head-
quarters, on being sent " in Scotiam." " This par-
ish," says the Rev. Alexander Leslie, author of the
Old Statistical Account, " is remarkable for having
been for some time the residence, and probably the
burial-place of St. Palladius, who was sent by Pope
Celestine into Scotland, some time in the 5th cen-
tury, to oppose the Pelagian heresy, and by whom
it is thought bishops were first appointed in Scot-
land, having before that time been governed by
monks. That Palladius resided, and was probably
buried here, appears from several circumstances.
There is a house which still remains in the church-
yard, called St. Palladius's chapel, where, it is said,
the image of the saint was kept, and to which pil-
grimages were performed from the most distant
parts of Scotland. There is a well at the corner of
the minister's garden, which goes by the name of
Paldy well." But, says Mr. Chambers, " It is now
the general opinion of the more rigorous antiquaries.
FORDYXE.
666
FOREMAN-HILL.
that Palladius never was in Scotland, and that the
claims of Fordoun to have been his resting-place,
arose at first from a misapprehension, either wilful
or through ignorance, on the part of the monks.
Palladius, according to the only proper authority,
was sent ' in Scotiam,' that is, to Ireland ; for such
was the designation of the sister-isle at that period."
The parish is traversed by the Aberdeen railway,
and has a station on it.
This parish is in the presbytery of Fordoun, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, ,£257 12s. 2d. ; glebe, £6. Unappropriated
teinds, £160 17s. 9d. Schoolmaster's salary, £55
12s. lid., with about £50 fees, and £8 other emolu-
ments. The parish church is a handsome building,
in the Gothic style, erected in 1829, with a tower
93 feet high, and contains 1,230 sittings. There is
a Free church : attendance, 450 ; sum raised in
1865, £233 7s. 6d. There are 7 non-parochial
schools, a large parochial library, and a savings'
bank. The celebrated Dr. Beattie of Aberdeen was
for some time schoolmaster of Fordoun.
FORDYCE, a parish, containing the poet-towns of
Portsoy and Fordyce, and the villages of Sandend
and Newmills, on the coast of Banffshire. It is
bounded by the Moray frith, and by the parishes of
Boyndie, Ordiquhill, Grange, Deskford, and Cullen.
Its outline is nearly triangular, with the base or
shortest side on the coast, and the apex on the south ;
and it measures about 6 miles along the coast, about
8 miles inland, and about 28 square miles in area.
The coast is somewhat bold and rocky, and has
some conspicuous headlands, but is indented by two
bays, that of Portsoy, where there is a good com-
modious harbour, and that of Sandend, where there
is a sandy beach of about half-a-mile in length.
Several caves penetrate the coast rocks, though not
to any great depth; and an interesting object adja-
cent to one of these is the old castle of Findlater.
See the article Findlater. The general surface of
the parish is diversified ; part of it being a fine flat,
with frequent inequalities or rising grounds, and
part a series of hills, with intervening and flanking
vales and dales. In the centre of it are the hills
of Down and Fordyce, extending continuously, with
crescent curve, from north-east to south-west, with an
extreme elevation of about 700 feet above sea-level.
In the south, on the boundary with Grange, rises
Knock -hill, with majestic appearance, to an altitude
of about 1,300 feet above sea-level, serving as a
landmark to mariners throughout a considerable
sweep of the Moray frith. Three small rivulets
effect most of the drainage, — the burn of Boyne
along the eastern boundary, the burn of Down to
the sea at Portsoy, and the burn of Fordyce to the sea
at Sandend bay. The soil varies with the substrata;
but in general is deep and fertile, yet naturally wet,
so as to require much artificial draining. The New
Statistical Account distributes the area into 9,306
imperial acres regularly or occasionall}' in tillage,
5,960 constantly waste or in pasture, 670 of the latter
capable of profitable reclamation, 1,500 in a state
of undivided common, and 1,234 under wood. The
geognostic features of the parish, particularly in the
vicinity of Portsoy, are eminently interesting. A
beautiful serpentine occurs in two masses, respec-
tively 73 feet and 1,500 feet wide. " Along with it
hornblende-slate, quartz rock, elayslate, limestone,
and talc or mica-slate, with granite veins, occur in
various alternations; but their exact relations to this
roek are not very clearly exhibited. The colours
of the roek are different shades of green and red,
disposed in clouds, veins, spots, and dots; all these
varieties being sometimes found even in hand speci-
mens, yellowish, greenish, and greyish white tints
also occur. Its structure is massive, with an un
even splintery fracture. It contains numerous im-
bedded minerals, as asbestos, amianthus, mountain
cork, steatite, talc, Schiller spar, magnetic iron, chro-
mate of iron, &c. It is often named Portsoy marble,
and is much valued as an ornamental stone, having
been even exported to France, to adorn the palace
of Versailles." In the same neighbourhood occur
also veins of graphite granite, comprising quartz
and felspar crystals so arranged, that the polished
surface resembles rudely formed letters. A beauti-
ful quartz rock, suitable for potteries, is quarried on
the north side of the hill of Durn for exportation to
England. Limestone is worked in three quarries.
Sea-fisheries are carried on at Portsoy and Sandend,
and a salmon fishery at the mouth of the burn of
Boyne. The landowners are the Earl of Seafield,
Sir Robert Abercromby, Bart., and A. Abercromby.
Esq., of Glassaugh, — the last of whom is resident
in Glassaugh-house, one of the neatest and largest
mansions in the county. The yearly value of raw
produce was estimated in 1842 at £41,250. As-
sessed property in 1843, £8,712 3s. 5d. There are,
in this parish, remains of some Druidical temples,
with barrows or tumuli, and cairns, in which stone
coffins, with skeletons and urns, have been found.
There is a triple fosse, or rampart, on the sides and
top of the hill of Durn. General Abercromby of
Glassaugh was a native of Fordyce ; so also, ac-
cording to some accounts, was Archbishop Sharpe.
The village of Fordyce stands in the vale of the For-
dyce burn, about 3 miles south-west of Portsoy. It
is a burgh of barony, under the Earl of Seafield. It
received its first charter in 1499, and another in
1592. Fairs for sheep and cattle are held here on
the last Wednesday of October, and on the fourth
Thursday of November, both old style. Population
of the village, 212. Population of the parish in
1831, 3,364; in 1861, 4,145. Houses, 777.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Earl of Seafield.
Stipend, £245 17s. 2d. ; glebe, £5. Unappropriated
teinds, £771 16s. 3d. The parish church was built
in 1804, and contains about 1,100 sittings. There
is a chapel of ease in Portsoy, which was built in
1815, and contains nearly 700 sittings. It is in the
presentation of the Earl of Seafield. There are two
Free churches, respectively at Fordyce and at
Portsoy. Attendance at the Fordyce Free church,
150; sum raised in I860, £28 Is. 6d. Attendance
at the Portsoy Free church, 450; sum raised in 1865,
£198 Is. Id. There are in Portsoy an Episcopalian
chapel and a Roman Catholic chapel, the former
built in 1841, the latter in 1829. The salary of
the parochial schoolmaster is £40, with about
£30 fees, and some other emoluments. There are
1 1 schools besides the parish school ; and the ma-
jority of them are aided by either public bodies or
private subscribers. There are various beneficiary
institutions in Portsoy. The parish of Fordyce,
previous to the Reformation, comprehended also the
districts which now form the parishes of Ordiquhill,
Deskford, and Cullen.
FOREBANK. See Dundee.
FOREHOLM, a small island in the parish of
Sandsting, £ mile east of the nearest part of the
mainland, and 5 miles south by west of the southern
extremity of Yell, Shetland.
FOREMAN-HILL, a beautiful eminence, of a
somewhat conical form, rising from the right bank
of the Deveron, to an elevation of about 1,000 feet,
at the northern extremity of the parish of Foigue,
and on the north-western verge of the county of
Aberdeen. Its sides, for a good way up, are finely
wooded ; and its top commands an extensive and
EOEENESS.
(iG7
FORFAR.
diversified prospect. Queen Mary, when on her
way to Eotniemay house, passed over this hill, by
what is still called the Queen's road.
FORENESS, a small peninsula, opposite the
island of Forcholm, on the east coast of the main-
Land of Shetland.
FOREST-MILL, a namlet in the parish of Clack-
mannan, 3A miles north-east of the town of Clack-
mannan. In 1766, the poet, Michael Bruce, taught
a school here.
FORFAR, a parish, containing a royal burgh of
its own name, and the villages of Carseburn and
Lunanhead, nearly in the centre of Forfarshire. It
is hounded on the north by Rescobie; on the east
by Rescobie, Dunnichen, and Inverarity; on the
south by Inverarity; and on the west by Kinnettles,
Glammis, and Kirriemuir. It is of very irregular
outline, but convenient and compact in form; and
measures, in extreme length from north to south,
5 miles; in extreme breadth from east to west,
4J miles; and in superficial area, 16 square miles.
The surface — as it all lies within the How of
Angus, or the portion of Strathmore which be-
longs to Forfarshire — presents a level prospect to
the eye. The uniform plain is variegated only
by extensive and fine plantations in the north-
ern section; by two lakes respectively on the
north-east and in the west; and by the hill of
Balnashmar, which rises immediately south of the
burgh, stands partly within the royalty, and com-
mands a map-like view of the whole parish and ad-
jacent country. The soil of the district is, in the
middle division, a spouty clay; and in the northern
and southern divisions, a light and thin loamy earth
with a gravel bottom. Lemno-burn, over a distance
of 2£ miles, forms the northern boundary-line.
Three streams rise in the parish, two flowing west-
ward and one southward; but, as long as they tra-
verse it, they are very inconsiderable rills. The
loch of Forfar, a mile in length and \ of a mile in
breadth, stretches from near the burgh to the west-
ern limit of the parish, and there sends off the
parent or head-stream of Dean water. This loch
was formerly of larger size; but wTas drained of
about 16 feet perpendicular depth of water, and gave
up a very valuable supply of moss and marl. Pre-
vious to the draining, an artificial island, composed
of large piles of oak and loose stones, covered with
a stratum of earth, and planted with aspen and sloe
trees, looked out from the waters near the northern
shore, and is supposed to have been a place of re-
ligious retirement for Queen Margaret, when Mal-
colm Canmore made Forfar his place of residence.
The quondam, island is now a very curious peninsula,
and preserves some vestiges of a building which
probably was a place of worship. Loch Fithie is a
smaller lake than the loch of Forfar, similar in form,
and situated near the north-eastern angle of the
parish. It is surrounded by a beautiful rising bank,
richly tufted with plantation; and, lying concealed
from the view till one approaches its margin, and
abounding in pike and perch, while the groves
which overhang it are vocal with singing-birds, it
is a delightful retreat to the lovers of rural retire-
ment. There was formerly another loch in the par-
ish, called the loch of Restenet; and on a penin-
sula of it, now a pleasant eminence, stood a priory
subordinate to the abbey of Jedburgh. See the
article Restenet. A fosse, which some antiquaries
supposed to have been a work of defence formed by
the Picts, and strengthened by a rampart, anciently
extended from the loch of Forfar to the loch of
Restenet. Vestiges of a large camp, which some
suppose to have been Roman, others suppose to have
been Pictish, are traceable about 1$ mile east of the
burgh. The largest landed estates in the parish
are Lower and Restenet; and there are eight others.
The valued rental is £2,590 19s. Scots. Assessed
property in 1866, £17,434. Two lines of rail-
way, of extensive connexion, the Scottish Midland
Junction, and the Arbroath and Forfar portion of
the Aberdeen, converge at the burgh; and the
western turnpike from Dundee to Aberdeen inter-
sects the parish, cutting it into two nearly equal
parts. Population in 1831, 7,949; in 1861, 10,838.
Houses, 1,426.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Town-
council of Forfar. Stipend, £329 10s. lid.; glebe,
.£20. Unappropriated teinds, £246 5s. 3d. The
parish church was built in 1791, and altered in 1836,
and contains about 1,800 sittings. It is a plain
substantial edifice, and has a handsome well-pro-
portioned steeple, which was erected in 1814. A
chapel of ease, called St. James', is in the presenta-
tion of such male seat-holders as are communicants,
and has accommodation for about 950. There are
two Free churches, — the Forfar and the East Forfar.
Attendance at the Forfar Free church, 1 ,100; at the
East Forfar Free church, 150. Sum raised in 1865
by the Forfar Free church, £600 8s. 8|d.; by the
East Forfar Free church, £194 2s. The othei
places of worship are an United Presbyterian, built
in 1854, and containing 550 sittings;' a Congrega-
tional, built in 1836, at the cost of about £650, and
containing 460 sittings; an Episcopalian, built in
1824, at the cost of about £1,000, and containing 350
sittings ; and a Roman Catholic. The U. P. church
is a handsome structure. There are four public
schools, — the parochial school, the East Town-end
burgh school, the West Town-end burgh school,
and the burgh academy. The last of these has two
teachers, classical and English; and each of the
others has only one teacher. The parochial school-
master has a salary of £45 0s. Od., with an allow-
ance for a dwelling-house; and one of the burgh
teachers has a salary of £40 ; but the other teachers
have only small salaries along with fees. There
are also a female industrial school, and 9 or 10
private schools. — Forfar parish, in all writings con-
cerning the patronage, tithes, &c, is designed the
parish of Forfar-Restenet ; though the latter part
of the name is seldom mentioned in conversation or
in common writing. Restenet was perhaps the
name given to the priory, expressive of the purpose
for which it was built, namely a state repository for
the charters, &c. of the monastery of Jedburgh ; but
some take its derivation from a Gaelic word, High,
signifying, as they say, ' a bog or swamp,' which
indeed answers to the situation. Forfar is conjec-
tured to be the same with the ancient Or, and the
Roman Orreo, signifying a town situated on a lake;
to which description it exactly answers; and the
lake on which it stands has for many ages been
known by the name of Forfar. It has been con-
jectured that the name Forfar may have been
formed of two Gaelic words, fuar, ' cold, chilly,' and
bar, bhar, or var, 'a point;' 'the cold point.' In
common language the name is invariably pro-
nounced Farfar. In Welsh, fair signifies 'an
eminence.' — The learned Dr. Jamieson, the author
of the Scottish Dictionary, the History of thb
Culdees, and several other well-known works, liter-
ary and theological, was for a number of years the
minister of the Secession congregation of Forfar.
FORFAR, a royal burgh, a market town, and
the political capital of Forfarshire, is situated nearly
in the centre of the parish of Forfar, 5 miles east-
north-east of Glammis, 6 east-south-east of Kirrie-
muir, 12 south-west of Brechin, 14 north by east ol
FORFAR.
668
FORFAR.
Dundee, and 56, by way of Cupar and Dundee, from
Edinburgh. The ground on which it stands, as
well as that over a considerable way around it, is
remarkably uneven, and thrown up into little
hillocks. Though the town occupies the bottom of
a sort of basin, the immediately circumjacent ground
sloping gently toward it on almost every side, it
stands high in comparison to the general level of
the country. Waters, which rise not far from its
vicinity, flow respectively north, south, east, and
west, and fall into streams, which respectively run
toward the Tay long before it expands into an
estuary, and toward the northern part of the eastern
sea-board of the county. The town, while over-
looked by gentle slopes, commands, through their
openings and over their summits, extensive views
of the Sidlaw hills, the great valley of Strathmore,
and a wide sweep of the shelving ranges of the
Grampians. Though forming a singular instance
of a town of any note built at a distance from any
river, it possesses remarkable capacities of sending
down turnpike, railway, or canal, by a very easy
descent, westward to the river Tay, southward to
the frith of Tay, and eastward and north-eastward
to the German ocean; and these capacities, in all
respects except by canal, have now been turned to
such great practical account as to give it a very
large amount of first-class facilities of communi-
cation.
In one line of street, called West-port and High-
street, which makes repeated bends and is of very
unequal width, Forfar extends from south-west to
north-east about 1,200 yards. From the middle of
High-street, or rather from the middle of the whole
central line, Castle-street goes off and runs north-
ward over a distance of about 400 yards, sending
westward a branch street of about 160 yards, and
eastward an alley called Back-wynd, which, at a
distance of 400 yards from Castle-street, enters
High-street by an acute angle. Subtending most
of the main line of street on the south side, are
several lanes and short new streets, which, added
to the length of Castle-street, give the town an ex-
treme breadth of between 500 and 600 yards. Like
most old towns, Forfar was originally without any
regular plan, and received peculiarities and varieties
of configuration from the caprice of self- accommoda-
tion of every man who was able to add to its struc-
tures. About a century ago, its sinuous and ill-
compacted streets consisted chiefly of old thatched
houses, and were redolent of filth; but now the
streets, though generally irregular in outline, are
well-built, and of modern and comfortable appear-
ance; and in the south wing of the town, they
evince the adoption of the movement spirit of civic
and architectural reform which has of late years
veneered so many beauties upon the rough repulsive
surface of the important burgh of Dundee. In the
latter quarter is situated the Forfar academy, for
teaching the languages, mathematics, and geogra-
phy. In Castle-street stands a handsome suite of
county-buildings, of recent erection, built at the
cost of nearly £5,000, and highly ornamental to the
town. A new prison was erected in 1843 a little to
the, north of the town. The parish-church, with its
steeple, the new church of St. James, the U. P.
church, and the Episcopal chapel are all ornamental
to the burgh; and there is also a beautiful new
ultra-mural cemetery.
Forfar cannot, as a manufacturing town, bear
comparison with Arbroath or Dundee. Its chief
trade is the weaving of osnaburghs and coarse
linens. Hardly any factory work is done; but, in
1838, 2,569 hand-looms were employed on various
lommoii linen fabrics. Tlie osnaburgh weavers
earned, in 1824, from 12 to 14 shillings a-week;
but, for 9 years preceding 1838, were able, on the
average, to earn in nett wages little or nothing
more than 7s. 6d. for the first class of work, and 6s.
for the second. Another manufacture, but now
nearly extinct, is the making of a kind of shoes well-
adapted for a highland district. So ancient an I
famous is this manufacture, that the craft employe I
in it, " the sutors of Forfar," are popularly spoken
in identification with the whole population, in the
same way as, " the sutors of Selkirk," are made to
represent all the burghers of the capital of the
Forest. A shoemaker's earnings amount to about
12s. a-week. The town is the centre of considerable
transit traffic, and the seat of a considerable retail
trade. There is a weekly market on Saturday ; and
fairs are held on the last Wednesday in February,
the second Wednesday in, April, the first Wednes-
day in May, old style, the first Tuesday and two
following days in July, the first Wednesday and
Thursday in August, the last Wednesday in Sep-
tember, the third Wednesday in October, and the
first Wednesday in November. The town has
branches of the Commercial Bank, the Union Bank,
the National Bank, the Royal Bank, and the Dun-
dee Bank, a number of insurance agencies, a town-
hall, a news'-room, a mechanics' reading-room
and library, a subscription library, a deaf and
dumb association, a horticultural society, and a
curling club. It has also a fund, called Strang's
mortification, for the support of the poor within the
burgh.
The town-council of Forfar consists of a provost,
2 bailies, a treasurer, 1 1 councillors, and 4 deacons
of crafts. Previous to the Reform act, all the
council's members, except the deacons of crafts, were
elected by itself. There is no separate establishment
for lighting, cleansing, watching, and paving; the
expense of these matters being defrayed out of the
common good. The inhabitants subscribed to sink
wells, and are usually allowed a small contribution
towards the object from the town-funds. There is
no guildry incorporation. A company or corporation
of merchants was established in 1653, but possesses
no exclusive privileges. Three incorporated trades,
— the glovers, the shoemakers, and the tailors, —
have the exclusive right of exercising their respec-
tive callings within the burgh, and claim fees of ad-
mission from strangers. The weavers' incorporation
formerly possessed the same right, but was denuded
of it by an act of parliament for improving the linen
trade. The shoemakers' incorporation is the most
ancient ; and it is the only one which possesses pro-
perty to a noticeable amount, drawing an annual
revenue of about £100, and expending £80 in allow-
ances to decayed and sick members. The magistrates
exercise jurisdiction over the whole royalty, which
extends about 1\ miles in length, and half-a-mile in
breadth, and over some adjacent liberty lands de-
fined in a charter given to the town by Charles II.
The only court held in the burgh, is the bailie court,
into which civil causes of a personal nature can be
brought to any amount. The magistrates, while in
court, are assisted by an assessor, who is the town-
clerk. The town-council have no patronage, except
the appointment of the municipal officers, and of the
parochial minister. The gross value of the pro-
perty of the town was estimated, in 1832, at £18,867
15s. 7 Jd. The gross revenue for the same year was
£1,616 Is. 6-j\-d.; and the gross expenditure £2,193
13s. 4d., — so large a portion of this expenditure, as
£1,416 17s. 4d., being casual, and having for its ob-
ject public improvements. During the years 1827-
1831, the average annual revenue was £1,715 5s.
9T\d., — and the average annual expenditure £1,625
FORFAR.
GG9
FORFAR.
9s. 1-ftd. In October, 1853, the total value of the
burgh property was estimated at £18,844 4s. 9d., —
the debts and obligations at £6,440; and in the year
18(30-1, the revenue amounted to about £2,110.
The sheriff and commissary courts for the county
are held at Forfar ou every Thursday during session,
and once during each vacation. A sheriff small
debt court also is held on every Thursday during
session. Forfar unites with Arbroath, Montrose,
Brechin, and Bervie, in sending a member to par-
liament. Its parliamentary boundaries are the same
as the municipal. Constituency in 1862, 316. Pop-
ulation in 1841, 8,362 ; in 1861, 9,25S. Houses,
1,107.
There are few places within the royalty in which
a quarry of some kind may not be found. Stone
and slate quarries have been plentifully worked on
the south side of the town, and have greatly aided
its trading prosperity and architectural improve-
ment. But Forfar long suffered serious disadvan-
tage, and even was menaced with a destruction of
its well-being, by the scarcity and dearth of fuel.
Turf or peat, procured in no great abundance, and
sought by the draining of Loch Forfar and Loch
Eestenet, was, for many years, its chief dependence.
Coal was vainly sought in the vicinity, and could
be procured from the coast only at high prices. But
by means of the railway communications which
have recently been opened, the town has surmounted
nearly all its disadvantages ; and, if prosperous be-
fore, ought now to career speedily toward consider-
ation and opulence.
Forfar is a town of high but unascertained anti-
quity. Its nucleus, in the form of a village or ham-
let, must have been created under the protection of
an ancient castle of great note and importance, all
vestiges of which have long ago disappeared. When
this castle was built, and what form it originally
possessed, are matters lost to history; but it is re-
corded to have been the scene of the parliament
which was held in the year 1057, by Malcolm Can-
more, after the recovery of his kingdom from the
usurpation of Macbeth, and in which surnames and
titles were first conferred on the Scottish nobility.
The castle stood on a rising ground to the north of
the town, and appears, from traces of it which ex-
isted 60 years ago, and from the amount of its con-
jectured dilapidation in building the modern town,
to have been very extensive. As if it had been a
quarry rather than an edifice, it seems to have fur-
nished the materials of the old steeple, the west
entry to the old church, and probably a large por-
tion of the houses which, previous to the era of mo-
dern improvement, lined the streets. A figure of it,
cut in stone, remains upon the old market-cross,
and forms the device of the common seal of the
burgh. Forfar, in consequence of the attractions of
its castle, was, for a considerable period, the occa-
sional residence of royalty, and received a consider-
able number of royal favours. Queen Margaret,
the celebrated consort of Malcolm Canmore, had —
as noticed in the article on the parish — a separate
and apparently a cherished residence on the loch.
Weapons and instruments were, about 70 years ago,
found in the vicinity of the town, which are believed
to have belonged to the murderers of King Malcolm
II. Memorials of royal residence and favour survive
in the extensiveness of the burghal territory, and in
the names of some localities, such as the King's
moor, the Queen's well, the Queen's manor, the pal-
ace dykes, and the court-road. In the vicinity we
find the King's burn, the King's seat, and the Wolf
law, where the nobles were wont to meet for hunting
the wolf. A farm, about half-a-mile distant from
Forfar, is called Turf-big, because, as tradition as-
sures us, the peats or turfs used in the palace were
biggit or stacked there. Another place, near this,
retains the name of Heather-stacks, where, it is said,
the heath required for the royal kitchen was cut
down and piled up. A charter of confirmation
granted by Charles II., in 1665, assumes earlier
charters and rights to have been conferred on the
burgh, and narrates the plundering of the inhabi
tants, in 1651, for their attachment to the royal family,
noticing in particular, "the faithful testimony and
dissent given be Alexander Strang, late provost of
Forfar, and commissioner for the said burgh, against
passing of the unjust act of the pretendit parlia-
ment, the 16th of January, 1647, entitled Declara-
tion of the Kingdom of Scotland concerning his
Majesties Person." In 1684 the market-cross was
erected at the expense, it is said, of the Crown ;
and it stood for a century-and-a-half, an incum-
brance in the thoroughfare, and a monument of the
loyalty of the town ; but was afterwards removed
by the magistrates to the site of the old castle, to
mark and commemorate the scene of the royal resi-
dence.
A feud, or party animosity, has long subsisted
between ' the sutors of Forfar ' and ' the weavers of
Kirriemuir ;' and, though now prompting only hard
words and contemptuous nicknames, expressed it-
self, during a less civilized period, in acts of violence
and deeds of clanship. Drummond of Hawthornden
relates a ludicrous instance of how it operated in the
17th century, and of the barbarous ideas with which
it was associated. Arriving at Forfar in the sum-
mer of 1648, he stood convicted before the burghers
of the two works of defending his King and writing
poetry, — offences which they deemed in no ordinary
degree criminal; and, though intending to spend
the night in the town, he found himself spurned
from every door, and was obliged to proceed onward
to Kirriemuir. The 'weavers' of the latter town
were innately just as indignant at his two crimes as
their rivals; yet, happy to have an opportunity of
showing their contempt for ' the sutors,' by totally
differing from them in conduct, they gave Drum-
mond an hospitable reception ; and they so far won
him over by their kindness, that he praised them in
a song of stinging satire upon the sutors of Forfar. —
In the steeple of the church is preserved a small
circle of iron, called the Witches' bridle, consisting
of four parts connected by hinges, and adapted as a
collar for the neck. Behind is a short chain; and
in front, pointing inwards, is a gag which entered
the mouth, and pressed down the tongue. This in-
famous instrument was fastened upon any poor
wretch whom the ancient sages of Forfar condemned
to the stake, for having acquired, through private
malice or popular superstition, the reputation of
witchcraft ; and was used both as a halter for lead-
ing the victim forth to the place of execution, and
as a means of preventing speech or cries amidst the
torture of the flames ; and, when the execution had
been completed, it was usually found among the
mingled ashes of the body and the faggots. The
place of incremation was a small hollow, a little
north of the town, called the Witches' howe, and
surrounded by several small eminences which were
convenient stations for spectators. In the records
of the burgh is still preserved the process verbal of
a man, who, about the year 1682, suffered the in-
fliction of the horrid 'bridle,' and was burnt to death
in the Witches' howe, for the imputed crime of sor-
cery.— Antiquities of a very different class, are
large bell sent by Robert Strang, a native of Forfai,
who settled as a merchant and became wealthy in
Stockholm, as a tribute of respect to his native place;
and a table of donations to the poor, of which the
FORFARSHIRE.
670
FORFARSHIRE
same individual and his brother were the principal
contributors.
FORFAR AND ARBROATH RAILWAY. See
Arbroath and Forfar Railway.
FORFARSHIRE, or Angus, a maritime county
of the east side of Scotland, extending from the
river North Esk to the frith of Tay. It is bounded
on the north-west and north by Aberdeenshire ; on
the north-east by Kincardineshire; on the east and
south-east by the German ocean ; on the south by
the frith of Tay ; and on the south-west and west
by Perthshire. Its form — with the exception of an
indentation on tne north-east, another indentation
on the south-west, and a projection on the north-
west, all about 5 or 6 miles deep — is very nearly
circular. The county lies between latitude 56° 27'
and 56° 57' north, and between longitude 2° 25' and
3° 25' west from the meridian of Greenwich. Its
medium extent, from north to south, is 28J miles,
and from east to west, 29 miles, of 69 J to a degree;
and its superficial area is 889 square miles, or
568,750 English acres. The county consists of four
parallel and veiy distinctively marked districts, —
the Grampian, the Strathmore, the Sidlaw, and the
maritime.
The Grampian district forms the north-western
division, and includes about two-fifths of the super-
ficial area. Like the rest of the range, the Gram-
pian mountains here run from south-west to north-
east, forming the barrier between the Highlands
and the Lowlands of Scotland ; and exhibit ridge
behind ridge, with many intervening valleys cut
out by streams and torrents, till they form, at their
water-line or highest ridge, the boundary line of the
county. The are formed of granite, gneiss, mica-
slate, and clay-slate, flanked by a lower range of
old red sandstone associated with trap. The por-
tions of them included in Forfarshire, are called the
Binchinnin mountains; and, viewed in the group,
are far from possessing either the grandeur of the
alpine districts of the west, or the picturesqueness
and beauty of the highlands of the south. See
Binchinnin Mountains and Grampians. From the
higher summits of the Grampians, a brilliant view
is obtained, not only of Forfarshire and part of
Perthshire, but of Fife, East Lothian, and the
heights of Lammermoor.
The Strathmore district of Forfarshire is part of
the great valley of that name, [see Strathmore,]
and stretches from the western boundary of the
parish of Kettins, away north-eastward through the
whole county, to the lower part of the North Esk.
From its northern point south-westward it lies along
the foot of the Forfarshire Grampians, till it forms
the parish of Airlie ; and it thenceforth, till the ter-
mination of the parish of Kettins, shares the con-
tinuation of Strathmore with Perthshire. This dis-
trict is called the How or Hollow of Angus; and is
33 miles long, and from 4 to 6 miles broad. Its
surface is beautifully diversified by gentle eminences,
fertile fields, plantations, villages, and gentlemen's
seats. Small portions of it are covered with water
during wet seasons, and, in other respects, have
perhaps not received due attention from the cultiva-
tors of the soil. The geological formation of this
district is that of old red sandstone; and it is inter-
sected by numerous longitudinal ridges, some of
which rise 200 or 300 feet above the adjacent val-
leys.
The Sidlaw district of Forfarshire derives its dis-
tinctive features from the Sidlaw hills. These hills,
composed of old red sandstone accompanied by trap,
and overspread with an impervious boulder forma-
tion, are a continuation or offshoot of a range which
runs parallel to Strathmore or the Grampians, from
the hill of Kinnoul near Perth, to the north-east ex
tremity of Kincardineshire. Seen from Fifeshire,
the Sidlaws appear to rise at no great distance from
the estuary of the Tay, and shut out from view tha
scenery of Strathmore and the lower Grampians.
They lift several of their summits upwards of 1,400
feet above the level of the sea ; and in some places
are covered with stunted heath, while in others,
they are cultivated to the top. The Sidlaw district
terminates at Red-head, a promontory on the coast,
in the parish of Inverkeilor, between Arbroath and
Montrose; and measures about 21 miles in length,
and from 3 to 6 miles in breadth. From some of
the detached hills, respectively on the north-western
and the south-eastern sides of the range, brilliant
views are obtained, on the one hand, of the whole
extent of Strathmore, and, on the other, of the sce-
nery along the frith of Tay and the German ocean.
See Sidlaw Hills.
The maritime district of Forfarshire is, for a brief
way, in the parish of Inverkeilor, identified with
the Sidlaw district, but extends from the Tay and
the limits of Liff and Lundie on the south to near
the mouth of the North Esk on the north. In its
southern part, it is at first of very considerable
breadth ; but it gradually narrows as it becomes
pent up between the Sidlaw hills and the ocean;
and, overleaping the former, it thence stretches
northward parallel to the How of Angus. In ex-
treme length, it measures upwards of 27 miles ; in
breadth, it varies from about 3 miles to upwards of
8£; and in superficial area, it includes upwards of
222 square miles. This district is, with a few ex-
ceptions, fertile and highly cultivated. Excepting
a few rounded jutting hills — some of which are
designated by the Gaelic name of Duns — its surface
slopes gently to the frith of Tay on the south, and
the German ocean on the east. At Broughty-Ferry,
where the frith of Tay is very much contracted, an
extensive tract of links or sandy downs commences,
and thence sweeps along a great part of the parishes
of Monifeith and Ban-}'. Two other sandy tracts of
inconsiderable breadth stretch along the coast re-
spectively between Panbride and Arbroath, and
between the embouchures of the South Esk and the
North Esk. In many places, these downs evince,
by extensive beds of marine shells, at heights vary-
ing from 20 to 40 feet, that they were at one period
covered with the sea. The maritime district is
adorned with towns and villages, elegant villas and
comfortable farm-steads, numerous plantations, and,
in general, ample results of successful culture and
busy enterprise.
No waters enter Forfarshire from the contermi-
nous counties; and only inconsiderable rills at two
points come down thence upon waters which form
its boundary-line. All its waters, with the excep-
tion of the Isla and its tributaries which ran into
Perthshire to join the Tay, have their termination
also within its limits, or at its boundaries. The
principal streams, in consequence, are not of the
class which the usage of Scotland dignifies with the
name of rivers, but belong to the more humble class
of "waters." The most northerly is the North
Esk, whose principal tributaries are West water and
Cruick water, both on its right bank, and which
forms, for a considerable distance before entering
the sea, the north-eastern boundary-line of the
county. The next is the South Esk, which tra-
verses the whole breadth of the county from the
highest range of the Grampians to the sea at Mon-
trose, and whose principal tributaries are the Proscn
on its right bank, and the Neran on its left. The
Lunan rises near the centre of the county, and flows
eastward to the sea at the point of division between
FORFARSHIRE.
G71
FORFARSHIRE.
the parishes of Lunan and Inverkeilor. Of a num-
ber of other streams which How toward the German
ocean or the frith of Tay, all, with the exception of
the Dighty, are very inconsiderable, rarely having
a course of more than 8 or 9 miles. The Isla rises,
like the two Esks, in the Grampians, but flows in
general southward, forms, for a number of miles, the
western boundary-line, and through its own immedi-
ate tributaries and those of the Dean, which joins it
immediately after entering Perthshire, drains the
waters of about one-sixth of the county away toward
a junction with the Tay 10 miles above Perth.— The
lakes of Forfarshire are all small— in no case much
upwards of one mile in length — and are chiefly
Lochlee, Lintrathen, Eescobie, and Forfar lochs, in
the parishes of their respective names, and Balgavies
loch in the parish of Aberlemno. These lakes, as
well as some smaller ones, abound in pike, perch,
and various kinds of trout. Several of them are
valuable also for marl ; and others, not now in ex-
istence, were drained for sake of obtaining easy and
profitable access to that substance. The Tay,
though it expands into an estuary 12 miles before
touching the county, and cannot, while it washes
its shores, be considered as a river, is greatly more
valuable to Forfarshire than all its interior waters.
.Sand banks in various places menace its navigation,
but are rendered nearly innocuous by means of
lighthouses and other appliances.
From the mouth of the Tay to near Westhaven,
the coast on the German ocean is sandy; and thence
north-eastward to near Arbroath, it cannot safely be
approached on account of low, and, in many cases,
sunk rocks. About 10| miles south-eastward of the
centre of this perilous part the Bell-rock lighthouse
lifts its fine form above the bosom of the ocean.
See Bell-Bock. A mile north-eastward of Arbroath
the coast becomes bold and rock}-, breaking down
in perpendicular precipices, and, in many places,
perforated at the base with long deep caverns, whose
floors are boisterously washed by the billows of the
sea. The Bed-head, a rocky promontory, upwards
of 200 feet perpendicular, terminates this bold section
of coast, as it does the inland range of the Sidlaws.
Lunan bay now, with a small sweep inward, pre-
sents for nearly 3 miles a fine sandy shore, and offers
a safe anchorage. The coast again becomes rocky
and bold as far as to the mouth of the South Esk ;
and thence to the extremity of the county, it is low
and sandy.
Forfarshire is not remarkable for its minerals.
Many searches have been made in the south-western
district, sometimes with temporarily flattering pros-
pects, but eventually without success, for coal. A
thin seam has more than once been found, but no-
thing sufficiently important to warrant a hope that
any part of the coalfield of Scotland lies beneath.
Peat long served as a desideratum in the central
districts; but now, in eveiy quarter except among
the Grampians, may be regarded as exhausted. The
manufacturing and most populous parts of the county
are hence wholly dependent for their fuel upon the
collieries of Fife and Newcastle. — Limestone occurs
in the Grampian, the Sidlaw, and the maritime dis-
tricts. That, among the Grampians, is what miner-
alogists call mountain-limestone; and is composed
of crystals, or spar of lime, in very small grains.
In Glen Esk and Glen Clova it abounds ; but owing
to the want of appropriate fuel, is very limitedly
worked. Several veins of rhomboidal spar of lime
intersect the sandstone strata of the Sidlaws; and is
wrought, though to only a small extent, in various
places m the district. In the neighbourhood of
Brechin, the stratum is about 12 feet thick, inclin-
ing to the north at an angle of about 45 degrees ;
and consists of a great congeries of fragments of
limestone, of various colours, most of which have
been rounded into a globular form, and cemented
together by means of a sparry cement crystallized
among their interstices. It is mined from between
strata of red sandstone, and burned with coal fetched
from Montrose. Were blocks of it found sufficiently
compact and free of cracks, they could be polished
into a remarkable species of marble. Limestone,
yielding three bolls of powdered slacked lime from
one boll of shells, is worked at Hedderwick north of
Montrose, and Budden on the coast 3 miles south of
that town, from strata of an aggregate thickness of
25 feet. But though worked in the latter locality
since about the year 1696, and though occurring in
sufficient plenty in the county, the limestone of For-
farshire, on account of the dearth of fuel, cannot
compete, even on its own soil, with lime imported
from Sunderland and from Lord Elgin's works on
the frith of Forth. — Sandstone abounds in all the
districts except the Grampian; but nowhere is so
fine a building material, as to either grain or colour,
as the sandstone of Fife or Mid-Lothian. Much of
it is red, incapable of being cut with the chisel, and,
dressed with the hammer or the pick, is employed
in rubble-work. But in several of the Sidlaw par-
ishes it occurs in strata of various thickness, some
of them only from half an inch to an inch, which
are cut into plates for roofing and flags for paving.
The strata are coated with scales of mica or talc, of
a greyish-blue colour, and, in consequence, are
easily separated. The most extensive range is in
the parish of Carmylie, and along the south-eastern
declivity of the Sidlaw hills, and is worked in vari-
ous extensive quarries. The strata here are of a
veiy fine grain, white in colour, or with a slight ten-
dency to blue or green, and are quarried or carved
into columns, lintels, grave-stones, steps for stairs,
and especially paving-flags of from three to six
inches in thickness, which are shipped in large
quantities at Arbroath, and, under the name of Ar-
broath paving stones, find a ready market in Lon-
don and Edinburgh.
Lead ore, of the species called galena, black in
colour, and metallically lustrous, occurs in various
localities in micaceous rock; and was for some time
wrought in the upper part of the parish of Lochlee,
and at Ardoch, near the Mill-den, on the Esk, till
the mines got under water. Copper is supposed to
exist in the Sidlaw hills, and in the spurs of the
lower Grampians. — An iron mine in the lower part
of the parish of Edzell was for some time worked,
but has long been abandoned. — A very thick vein
of slate occurs in the mouth of Glen Prosen, and in
many other places along the declivity of the
Grampians, and is of a dark-blue colour, inclining
to purple ; but it seems not to be appreciated, or is
supposed to be less valuable for roofing than the
thin plates of sandstone with which the county
abounds. — Shell-marl, formed from the exuviae of
several kinds of fresh water molluscs, and greatly
enriching to the country as a manure, abounds in
various parts of Strathmore, or in contiguous lakes
and swamps; and has been removed in large quan-
tities from the beds of seven lakes, four of which,
Kinordie, Lundie, Logie, and Eestenet, have been
wholly drained, and three, Forfar, Eescobie, and
Balgavies, partially drained, in order to its re-
moval. Clay-marl, used for consolidating sandy
and gravelly soils, occurs in Dunnichen, Kinnettles,
Tannadice, Lethnot, and the lower part of West-
water. Eock or stone marl, which readily dissolves
into clay on exposure to the ah-, and imparts extra-
ordinary fertility to a superincumbent soil, occurs
as a subsoil in the parishes of Craig and Dun, and
FORFARSHIRE.
672
FORFARSHIRE.
probably in other localities — Vast masses of jasper,
varying in colour from a bright yellow to a deep
red, and capable of being cut and finely polished
into ornamental trinkets, are immersed in mica
schistose rocks on the property of Burn, at the
mouth of Glen Esk, and at the bridge of Cor-
tachie, where the South Esk issues from among
the Grampians. — Chalybeate springs, of important
medicinal quality, well up in numerous places ; but
those chiefly resorted to are one near Montrose, three
west of Arbroath, and one in the parish of Dunnichen.
The general colour of the soils of Forfarshire is
red, of various intensity, inclining often to brown,
or dark brown, or black. The moist soils are, in
all cases, darker than the diy. On the uplands of
the Grampians, a thin stratum of moorish earth
generally covers the surface, over a whitish reten-
tive clay, but frequently perforated by jutting rocks.
In the glens of the Grampians, the secondary or
alluvial soils are generally much mixed with sand,
and, in consequence, are loose and friable; and, in
many instances, they are unmanageably stony. In
the lower part of the country, the primary soils are
of various qualities: those on gravel stone rocks are
generally thin, mossy, and encumbered with loose
stones ; those on sandstone rocks are chiefly a tena-
cious clay, very unfertile, yet capable of being so
wrought and manured as to produce excellent
wheat; those upon subsoils of what, in this county,
are called mortar, because they serve as a succe-
daneum for cement in building, consist also of clay,
but are more vivid in the redness of their colour
than the former class, and decidedly superior in
quality; those upon whinstone are, in general,
friable clays, and very fertile, though, on the north-
ern declivity and among the valleys of the Sidlaw
hills, they are often too shallow to admit the plough,
and are sometimes perforated and displaced by the
solid rock. Never, in this county, does whinstone
look out from the surface at or near the summit of
a hill, without giving intimation that a sheet
of alluvial whinstone soil, rich and veiy fertile,
stretches away from the base of the hill, increasing
in depth as it recedes. The alluvial soils, in the
lower parts of the county, are often so intermixed
with the primary that they can hardly be dis-
tinguished; but they prevail in the basins of rivers,
and frequently extend to a considerable elevation
above the present beds of the streams, in hollows
which seem to have originally been the beds of
lakes, or of expansions of running waters. In the
How of Angus, the soils are all alluvial, but, only
in the minority of instances, fertile. In many
places, the soil is gravelly, the stones being in
general of small size; in some places, it is a dead
sand, which scarcely compensates the cost of culti-
vation; in several places, it consists of sheets of
alluvial whinstone, or of earths mixed with vegetable
mould, which have been deposited by rivulets from
the Sidlaw hills, and are very fertile; in other
places, it is an alluvial clay, resembling carse-land,
deposited by sluggish brooks, and, when rendered
dry, is abundantly productive. Part of the strath
which these varieties of soil carpet, has grown up
into moss; and part of it is so flat as, in rainy
weather, to be saturated with moisture and con-
verted into fens. At Little Mill, north of Montrose,
and in various other places round Montrose Basin,
are stripes and patches of real carse-clay, similar to
that of the carses of Gowrie and Falkirk. No very
extensive mosses occur in the county. Those among
the Grampians are situated in hollows on the sum-
mits of the sides of the mountains. The principal
•me in the low country is Deity moss, on the lands
of Carbuddo.
About 130 years ago, a great proportion of For-
farshire was in the hands of a few ancient families;
the most conspicuous of whom were the Lyons,
Maules, Douglases, Ogilvies, and Carnegies. But
since the introduction of manufactures and trade,
property has undergone many changes, and been
parcelled out in smaller divisions. Of 40 barons
mentioned by Edward in 1676, not one-third are
represented by descendants who are proprietors in
the county. A portion even of the few ancient fa-
milies who remain have their principal property in
other counties, and do not reside in Angus. So
rapidly has landed -property passed, in many par-
ishes, from hand to hand, that the average term of
possession by one family does not exceed 40 years.
The money-value of estates has also, for a long
period, fluctuated, and, up to 1815, kept steadily in-
creasing. A great proportion of the landed pro-
perties, when the Rev. James Headrick drew up,
in 1813, his General View of the Agriculture of
Forfarshire, were from £100 to £1,000 a- year in
value; some were from £2,000 to £6,000; and one,
or perhaps two, were reckoned to exceed £12,000.
— The greater number of the estates are freehold,
or held by charter from the Crown. Some, but none
of large extent, are held in feu, or by charter, from
a subject superior; but, as to the practical nature
of the tenure, are really occupied, for a trifling rent,
upon a perpetual lease. A considerable proportion
of the entire property of the county is placed under
deeds of entail, and debarred from the full advan-
tages of improvement. — The farm-houses of all
Angus, about 70 or 80 years ago, were miserable
hovels; and those of even the present day in the
pastoral parts of the Grampian district, are gener-
ally wretched, dark, and sordid huts. But through
out the arable sections of every district of the
county, most of the present farm-houses are sub-
stantial in structure, convenient in situation, and
comfortable in aspect, and have usually their at-
tached offices in the form of three sides of a square.
Forfarshire, as to its agricultural capabilities,
continued long in the state of inertion which, till a
comparatively recent date, characterized most other
divisions of Scotland; but, except on a small mi-
nority of its estates, it is now fully aroused and en-
ergetic, and displays an activity and a success of
effort little inferior to those of the most flourishing
and embellished portions of the Lowlands. The
farmers, in general, have been equal in intelligence
and practical skill to the cultivators of the soil
in the choicest agricultural arenas of Scotland ; and
have, for the most part, kept pace with them in the
adoption or invention of plans of improvement.
The earliest agricultural association in the county
was the Lunan and Vinney water society, presided
over by the late patriotic George Dempster, Esq.
of Dunnichen, and composed of proprietors, farmers,
and clergymen residing in the basins of the streams
mentioned in its title. The Strathmore society, the
Angus and Mearns Agricultural society, the Angus
and Perthshire Agricultural society, and the East-
ern Forfarshire Farming association, followed. At
an early period in the era of improvement, some
proprietors employed professional men to plan and
mark out such drains as were necessary or desirable
upon their lands; and set a spirited and successful
example, which speedily prompted veiy extensive
and enriching draining operations throughout the
county. Vigorous, highly beneficial, and far spread
manuring operations were also from an early period
conducted with shell-marl and lime. Of compara-
tively modern improvements none has been so re-
markable in the energy of its prosecution, or the
beneficial nature of 'ts results, as the use of bone-
FORFARSHIRE.
67b
FORFARSHIRE.
dust. The first persons wlio freely used this man-
ure were the Honourable W. Maule, in the eastern
part of the county, and Mr. Watson of Keilor, in
the western, — both assiduous and astute agricultur-
ists, and judicious and enterprising improvers. The
mode of cropping, in the lower parts of the county,
is similar to that of the more southern parts of
Scotland; but, in the upland districts, does not, in
general, admit of wheat. The gross produce of
the county in 1854 comprised 380,658 bushels of
wheat, 908,010 bushels of barley, 2,001,583 bushels
of oats, 7,611 bushels of here, 21,067 bushels of
beans, 407,304 tons of turnips, and 51,998 tons of
potatoes. The average produce per imperial acre
was 29 bushels 3 pecks of wheat, 36 bushels of
barley, 39 bushels 1 peck of oats, 32 bushels 1 peck
of bere, 30 bushels 2 pecks of beans, 12 tons 13 cwt.
of turnips, and 4 tons 3 cwt. of potatoes.
The improvement in live stock has been parallel
with the improvement in cultivation. Before the
introduction of enclosures, turnips, and sown grasses,
the black cattle were diminutive in size, and were
yoked to the plough in teams of eight or ten.
Among those parts of the uplands which are least
improved the breed is still much smaller than in the
well-cultivated districts. The grazing and the feed-
ing of cattle are prosecuted, throughout the county,
to a much greater extent than the rearing of them.
Graziers, in consequence, make large purchases at
the fairs of Mearns, Aberdeenshire, and Moray, and
even travel to the North Highlands to procure cattle
for the stocking of their farms. A distinction be-
tween the best feeding and the best milking breeds,
which seems founded in nature, and very intimately
connected with improvement, is by no means attend-
ed to in Angus as in Ayrshire and other districts
which are enriched by their dairy produce. About
80 or 90 years ago, sheep were to be found on almost
every farm, proportioned in number to the extent
of its pasturage; but, except for connexion with
the turnip husbandry, they have long since been
gradually driven by the plough to a banishment
among the unreclaimable uplands. The original
breed was the small white-faced sheep, or spotted
with yellow, which seems to have been the aborigi-
nal breed of the British isles ; but it was, 45 years
ago, almost wholly superseded by the black-faced
sheep, which was annually brought, in considerable
numbers of a year old, from Linton in Peebles-shire.
The aggregate live stock of the county in 1854
comprised 9,123 horses, 11,816 milk cows, 25,459
other bovine cattle, 10,728 calves, 53,169 ewes,
gimmers, and ewe-hogs, 51,349 tups, wethers, and
wether-hogs, and 7,760 swine. Goats were at one
time kept in the mountainous districts ; but they
were extirpated about 60 or 70 years ago, on account
of their hostility to plantations. The red deer or stag,
at one period, abounded among the Grampians ; but,
for many years, have disappeared. The horns of
the mouse-deer, which are branched like those of
the stag, but are much larger, are sometimes found
in mosses.
Large trees, found in mosses and marshy-grounds,
seem' to indicate that the lower parts of Forfarshire
abounded, at one period, in forests. The Grampian
glens are, in some instances, overrun with natural
birches, or with oak coppice, containing a mixture
of hazels and other shrubs ; and, in other instances,
they are adorned with thriving plantations. In the
lowlands of the county, and the Sidlaw hills, plan-
tations, with the exception of the parks and plea-
sure-grounds, are chiefly confined to places which
are inconvenient for the plough, or to thin moorish
soils which rest on clay or gravel, and are remote
from the means of improvement. In many parts
I.
the public roads wend among plantations, and dis-
close to the delighted traveller ever-changing pros-
pects of sylvan beauty. Near the shore trees do
not thrive, except in ravines or behind hanks, where
they are sheltered from the sea-spray. During the
early part of the era of improvement, Scotch fir was
almost the only arborial species planted, and was
believed to be that chiefly, or that alone, which
would suit the soil and climate ; but it was soon dis-
covered to be, except on particular spots, the least
thriving and the most unprofitable; and, in the
second period of improvement, it began to be gen-
erally substituted by the larch. Hard woods, as
they are called, or all sorts of deciduous trees, as
oaks, ashes, elms, planes, beeches, poplars, form
also numerous plantations, interspersed with spruce
and silver firs. To enumerate all the noblemen and
gentlemen who have beautified and enriched their
estates with extensive and thriving plantations,
would be to write a list of most of the great and
secondary proprietors of the county. " Owing to
the annual extension of plantations," says the Rev.
Mr. Headrick, writing in 1813, " it is difficult to as-
sign the proportion of surface planted at present.
But from Mr. Ainslie's very accurate map of the
county, it appears that, in 1792, there were about
15,764 Scotch acres of plantation. Since that time
there cannot be less than 5,000 additional acres
planted. This brings the whole plantations of the
county to 20,764 acres." As the annual increase,
especially on the declivities of the Sidlaws, and
along the face of the lower Grampians, and on the
extensive poorer soils of Strathmore, has hitherto
continued at a ratio not less than during the period
for which Mr. Headrick allows an increase of 5,000
acres, the entire extent of plantation, in 1855, can-
not be less than from 30,000 to 35,000 Scotch acres.
The largest forest is that of Monrithmont moor,
distributed among the parishes of Brechin, Farnell,.
Aberlemno, Guthrie, Kirkden, and Kinnel. The
most extensive planters have been Carnegie of
Southesk and the Earl of Airlie ; the latter, accord-
ing to a report of his lordship to the Highland
society, in 1830, having, between 1811 and that
year, planted upwards of 3,000 acres.
Forfarshire is the chief seat of the coarse linen
manufactures of Scotland, and conducts a very ex-
tensive commerce in fabrics made up from foreign
flax and hemp. In the large towns the spinning of
yam in large mills, and the working of canvass,
broad-sheetings, bagging, and other heavy fabrics,
in factories, are conducted on a vast scale ; and in
the smaller towns and the villages, the manufac-
ture of osnaburghs, dowlas, and common sheetings,
employs an enormous number of hand-looms. Of
4,000 power-looms employed in Scotland on coarse
linen fabrics, greatly the larger proportion are in the
towns of Angus. A fair idea of the manufactures
of the county will be formed by glancing at those
of the towns, Dundee, Arbroath, Forfar, Kirriemuir,
Montrose, and Brechin, in which — especially in
Dundee — they are concentrated. In all the villages
and hamlets the principal trade is the weaving of
the prepared materials into cloth, and the purifying
of them by bleaching.
Excepting roads which run up Glen Isla, Glen
Esk, Glen Lethnot, and Glen Mark, the Grampian
district is almost wholly unprovided with facilities
of communication. But the other districts of the
county, for the most part, abound in roads, and, as
to either their number or their quality, are not be-
hind any portion of Scotland. One great line of
road comes in from the Carse of Gowrie, and runs
along the coast through Dundee, Arbroath, and
Montrose ; another goes off from Dundee, through
2v
FORFARSHIRE.
G74
FORFARSHIRE.
Monikie, Dunnichen, and Brechin, toward Laurence-
kirk ; another stretches from Dundee, through For-
far, to join the former at Brechin ; two others come
respectively from Meigle and Blairgowrie, and
traverse the How of Angus ; two lines of road
radiate inward from Arbroath, and two from Mon-
trose ; and connecting lines and branch-roads every-
where ramify the country. Lines of railway run
from Dundee toward Perth, from Dundee to Strath-
more, from Dundee to Arbroath, with a branch to
Droughty -Ferry, in communication toward Edin-
burgh, from Arbroath to Forfar, from Forfar to
Strathmore toward Perth, and from Forfar to the
north-eastern extremity of the county toward Aber-
deen, with branches to Montrose and Brechin.
The royal burghs of Forfarshire are Dundee, Ar-
broath, Brechin, Montrose, and Forfar. The other
towns, containing each more than 2,000 inhabitants,
are Kirriemuir, Broughty-Ferry, and part of Coupar-
Angus. The principal villages are Lochee, Liff,
Benvie, Invergowrie, Monifieth, Drumsturdy-Moor,
Bamhill, Barry, Carnoustie, Westhaven, Easthaven,
Panbride, Gallowlaw, Muirdrum, Newton of Pan-
bride, Craigton, Guildie, Guildie-Muir, Newbigging,
Balkello, Balgray, Todhills, Baldovan, Dronly,
Kettins, Peatie, Campmuir, Ford of Pitcur, Newtyle,
Bridgend, Balbirne, Barbaswalls, Whines, North-
muir, Southmuir, Maryton, Padanaram, Westmuir,
Douglastown, Glammis, Charlestown, Thornton,
Dramgley, Arnyfoul, Carseburn, Lunanhead, Friock-
heim, Letham, Drummietermon, Cotton of Lownie,
Bowriefauld, Craichie, Dunnichen, Arbirlot, Bon-
nington, Auchmithie, Marywell, Gowanbank, St.
Vigeans, Colliston-Mill, Ferryden, Usan, Tanna-
dice, Edzell, Craigo, Logie, and Muirside. Among
the principal seats are Airlie - castle, Cortachy-
castle. and Auchterhouse, the Earl of Airlie;
Camperdown - house, the Earl of Camperdown;
Glammis-castle, the Earl of Strathmore ; Ethie-
house, the Earl of Northesk; Careston-castle, the
Earl of Fife ; Gray, Lord Gray ; Brechin-castle and
Panmure house, the Earl of Dalhousie; Melgund, the
EarlofMinto; Kinnaird-castle, Sir P. M. Thriepland,
Bart.; Ochterlony-house, Sir C. M. Ochterlony,
Bart.; Baldovan-house, Sir John Ogilvy, Bart;
Balnamoon, J. C. Arbuthnot, Esq.; Boysack, W. F.
L. Carnegie, Esq.; Clova, Hon. Donald Ogilvy;
Guthrie, John Guthrie, Esq. ; Kinnordy, Sir Charles
Lyell; Craigo, J. F. Grant, Esq.
Forfarshire, as a county, sends one member to
parliament. Constituency in 1861, _ 3,722. The
county is divided into the sheriff-districts of Forfar
and Dundee, and into the justice-of-peace districts
of Forfar, Dundee, Arbroath, Montrose, Brechin,
and Kirriemuir. The Dundee sheriff division com-
prises only the parishes of Liff and Benvie, Inver-
gowrie, Dundee, Monifieth, Barry, Panbride, Moni-
kie, Murroes, Tealing, Mains, Strathmartine, Auch-
terhouse, and Lundie and Fowlis. The sheriff-
courts are held at Forfar every Thursday, and at
Dundee on every Tuesday during session, also once
in each place during vacation. The commissary
courts are held at Forfar on every Thursday, and at
Dundee on every Tuesday during session. Sheriff
small debt courts are held at Forfar on every
Thursday during session, at Dundee on every
Tuesday and Friday during session, and at Ar-
broath, Montrose, Brechin, and Kirriemuir, once iji
each January, March, May, July, September, and
November. The stations of the county police are
Forfar, Glammis, Newtyle, Ruthven-bridge, Lin-
trathen, Cortachy, Finhaven, Brechin, Friockheim,
Carnoustie, Broughty-Ferry, Letham, Edzell, Hill-
side, Marywell, Birkhill-fens, Ferryden, Monifieth,
Kirriemuir, and Dightywater-toll. The number of
committals for crime, in the year, within the
county, was 267 in the average of 1836-1840, 321
in the average of 1841-1845, 343 in the average of
1846-1850, 275 in that of 1851-5, 245 in that of
1 856-60. The total number of persons confined in For-
far jail within the year ending 30th June, 1860, was
167; the average duration of the confinement of
each was 41 days; and the net cost of their con-
finement per head, after deducting earnings, was
£17 lis. 9d. The total number confined in Dundee
jail in the same year was 1,061 ; the average dura-
tion of confinement, 26 days; and the net cost per
head, £1 6 2s. 9d. The total number confined in Ar-
broath jail in the year 1853 was 145; the average
duration of confinement, 13 days; and the net cost
per head, £30 14s. lOd. The total number confined
in Montrose jail in the year 1860 was 98; the
average duration of confinement, 22 days; and the
net cost per head, £35 10s. 4d. The number of
districts in the county, either parochial or quasi-
parochial, assessed for the poor, is 31 ; the number
unassessed, 22. The number of registered poor in
the year 1851-2 was 5,035; in the year 1859-60,
5,663. The number of casual poor in 1851-2 was
1,651 ; in 1859-60, 1 ,242. The sura expended on the
registered poor in 1851-2 was £25,0fl2; in 1859-60
£31,334. The sum expended on the casual poor in
1851-2 was £1,299; in 1859-60, £sp3. The valued
rent in 1674 was £171,239 Scots. The annual
value of real property, as assessed in 1815, was
£361,241 ; as assessed in 1849, £6?7,345. The as-
sessment in 1853-4 per £100 Scotk of real valued
rent, was 3s. for rogue-money, 2s. Sd. for bridge-
money, lis. for police-money, and Njs. 6d. for
prisons. Population of the county in 18Cfl>89j053;
in 1811, 107,187; in 1821, 113,355; in 1831,
139,606; in 1841, 170,453; in 1861, 204,425.
Males in 1861, 92,223; females 112,202. Inhabited
houses in 1861, 23,460; uninhabited, 807; build-
ing, 196.
Forfarshire, according to present ecclesiastical
reckoning, comprehends 49 quoad civilia parishes,
part of 6 other quoad civilia parishes, 1 quoad sacra
parish, and 13 chapels of ease. But one of the quoad
civilia parishes comprises the greater part of the
burgh of Dundee, with no fewer than 5 parochial
churches; and 6 other of the quoad civilia parishes
are united parishes, each of them capable of being
reckoned as two. One of the quoad civilia parishes
which belong but partly to Forfarshire, belongs
partly to Kincardineshire ; and the other five be-
long partly to Perthshire. All these parishes and
parts of parishes are within the bounds of the synod
of Angus and Mearns; and, together with 7 which
belong wholly to Perthshire, they constitute the
presbyteries of Meigle, Forfar, Dundee, Brechin,
and Arbroath ; and these five presbyteries together
with the presbytery of Fordoun, which belongs
wholly to Kincardineshire, constitute the entire*
synod of Angus and Mearns. In 1851, the number
of places of public worship within the county was
187; of which 67 belonged to the Established church,
51 to the Free church, 23 to the United Presbyterian
church, 6 to the Original Secession, 8 to the Epis-
copalians, 10 to the Independents, 4 to the Baptists,
4 to the Original Connexion Methodists, 1 to the
Independent Methodists, 1 to the Glassites, 3 to tiie
Evangelical Union, 3 to isolated congregations, 5 to
the Roman Catholics, and 1 to the Mormonites. The
number of sittings in 47 of the Established places of
worship was 32,031 ; in 49 of the Free church places
of worship, 31 ,543 ; in 22 of the United Presbyterian
places of worship, 13,083; in 4 of the Original Se-
cession places of worship, 1,450; in the 8 Episcopa-
lian chapels, 2,924; in the 10 Independent chapels
FORFARSHIRE.
G75
FORGAN.
5,824; ill 3 of the Baptist chapels, 580; in the 4
Original Connexion Methodist chapels, 1,330; in the
Independent Methodist chapel, 600; in the 3 Evan-
gelical Union chapels, 806 ; in the chapels of the 3
isolated congregations, 440; and the 5 Roman Cath-
olic chapels, 2,290. The maximum attendance, on
the Census Sabbath, at 53 of the Established places
of worship was 20,744; at 49 of the Free church
places of worship, 19,197; at the 23 United Presby-
terian places of worship, 8,114; at 5 of the Original
Secession places of worship, 765; at the 8 Episco-
palian chapels, 1,590; at the 10 Independent chapels,
2,578; at 3 of the Baptist chapels, 225; at the 4
Original Connexion Methodist chapels, 745; at the
Independent Methodist chapel, 190; at the Glassite
chapel, 35; at the 3 Evangelical Union chapels, 440;
at the chapels of the 3 isolated congregations, 230 ;
at 4 of the Roman Catholic chapels, 1,246; and at
the Mormonite place of worship, 100. There were
in 1851, in Forfarshire, 181 public day schools, at-
tended by 9,263 males and 6,698 females,— 122 pri-
vate day schools, attended by 3,049 males and 3,110
females, — 35 evening schools for adults, attended by
673 males and 657 females, — and 230 Sabbath
schools, attended by 8,128 males and 10,030 fe-
males.
Remains of vitrified forts are distinctly visible on
the hill of Finhaven, in the parish of Oathlaw; on
Drumsturdy moor, in the parish of Monifieth ; and
on Dundee law, in the vicinity of Dundee. Hill-
forts are traceable in what are called the White
Caterthun and the Brown Caterthun, in the parish
of Menmuir; in Denoon castle, 2 miles south-west
of Glammis ; and on Dunnichen hill, Dumbarrow
hill, Carbuddo hill, Lower hill, and several other
eminences ; but, in various instances, are indicated
only by heaps of loose stones. Roman camps exist
at Harefaulds, in the Moor of Lower, at a place in
the Moor of Forfar, a mile north of the town, and at
War-dikes or Black-dikes, 2 J miles north of Brechin.
The castles of Forfar and Dundee have long been
razed. Ruined castles of considerable interest are
Broughtj' castle, in the parish of Monifieth ; Red
castle, at the head of Lunan bay ; Airlie castle, in
the parish of Airlie; Finhaven castle, in the parish
of Oathlaw ; Invermark castle and Edzell castle, in
Glen Esk ; Kelly castle, near Arbroath ; and Affleck
castle, in the parish of Monikie. But owing to the
lands connected rath them having passed into the
possession of new proprietors, most of these ruined
baronial strengths have fallen greatly into decay.
The only Druidical circle in the county is at Pits-
canlie, about 2 miles north-east of Forfar. Interest-
ing remains of ancient ecclesiastical edifices occur in
the cathedral of Brechin, the monastery of Arbroath,
the tower of Dundee, and the priory of Restenet
near Forfar. Smaller monastic edifices in Dundee,
Montrose, Brechin, and other places, have, in most
instances, wholly disappeared.
Christianity was introduced to Angus by the Oil-
dees. But the congregations which they organized,
and the edifices which they constructed, were soon
seized and remodelled by the emissaries and priests
of Rome. A considerable part of the county was
annexed to the diocese of St. Andrews, and a part
of it to that of Dunkeld. But Brechin was the seat
of a bishop, who, though intrusted with only a small
diocese, seems to have been provided with opulent
revenues. His property, at the epoch of the Refor-
mation, is said to have yielded, in money and kind,
£700a-year, — a sum which was then equal to £7,000
at the present day. A very large proportion of the
lands of the county, besides property beyond its
bounds, belonged to the monks of Arbroath. Most
of the parish churches of modem date are neat, com-
modious, and even elegant. But even Dissenting
places of worship, built by voluntary subscription,
far excel the old parish churches, and in several
instances in the towns, are architecturally adorn-
ed.
The civil history of Forfarshire possesses hardly a
distinctive feature, and, excepting a few facts which
properly belong to the history of its towns, is blend-
ed in the general history of the counties north of
Forth. At the period of the Anglo-Saxon coloniza-
tion, when the feudal or baronial system was intro-
duced, the strangers whose descendants continue to
figure most conspicuously in the county were the
Lyons, the Maules, and the Carnegies. Sir John
Lyon, a gentleman of Norman extraction, having
married a daughter of King Robert II., obtained,
among other grants, the castle and lands of Glammis,
" propter laudabili et fidelia servitio, et contimiis
laboribus;" and was the founder of the noble family
of Lords of GlammisandEarlsofStrathmore. Guarin
de Maule came from Normandy with William the
Conqueror. Robert, one of two sons who survived
him, followed Earl David, afterwards King, into
Scotland. Roger, the second son of this Robert,
married the heiress of William de Valoniis, Lord of
Panmure, and chamberlain of Scotland under Alex-
ander II. From this marriage sprang the Maules,
who were afterwards Earls of Panmure.
FORGAN, a parish, containing the post-office
village of Newport, also the villages of Marytown
and Woodhaven, on the northern border of Fifeshire.
It lies on the Tay, opposite Dundee ; and is bounded
on the inland sides, by Ferry-Port-on-Craig, Leuch-
ars, Logie, Kilmany, and Balmerino. Its greatest
length, eastward, is nearly 6 miles; its length on
the coast is about 3J miles ; and its greatest breadth
is a little upwards of 2 miles. Its surface presents
a succession of heights and intervening hollows
which give it a pleasing aspect; and in several
places, such as St. Fort and Tayfield, where it is
ornamented with a great deal of fine wood, it is ex-
ceedingly beautiful and picturesque. At St. Fort,
and at Newton, are the highest hills in the parish,
which rise about 300 feet above the Tay. In gen-
eral, the coast is bold and rocky, rising from 30 to
50 feet above the beach ; and along the brow of these
rocks, for some way both east and west of Newport,
a number of elegant marine villas, with their gardens
and shrubberies, add greatly to the interest of the
landscape. The villas have been erected chiefly by
merchants and others belonging to Dundee, for the
benefit of sea-bathing during the summer. From
this rocky coast, and from the summit of the ridge
of hills which descend from the south towards the
Tay, are fine views of Dundee, and of the southern
sea-board of Forfarshire. The soil is generally fer-
tile. The greater part is black loam and clayey
earth ; but other portions are light and gravelly.
The parish altogether contains about 5,000 acres;
of which nearly 4,000 are under regular cultivation,
370 acres are in grass, 360 under wood, and 250
unarable. The rent of land is from £1 to £3 per
acre, but some parts near the Tay rent as high as £4
per acre. The total valued rental is £5.145 6s. 8d.
Scots. The real rent, in 1794, was £2,873 sterling.
The principal landowners are Stewart of St. Fort,
Berry of Tayfield, and four others. The mansion
of St. Fort is a large, handsome, modern structure,
in the Elizabethan style; aud the mansion of Tay-
field, though but partly a modern building, has an
entirely modern appearance, and stands delightfully
on the Taj'. There are in the parish some whin-
stone quarries and some salmon fishings. .The total
yearly value of raw produce was estimated in 1838
at £16,490. Assessed property in 1866, £12,705 0s.
FORGANDENNY.
676
FORGLEN.
Id. Population in 1831, 1,090; in 1861, 1,326
Houses, 291.
This parish is in the presbytery of St. Andrews,
and synod of Fife. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£230 19s. 8d.; glebe, £25. Schoolmaster's salary,
£35. The parish school is centrally situated at
Nether-Friarton. A school for girls is supported by
Mrs. Stewart. The parish was anciently called St.
Phillans. Its church, in the times before the Re-
formation, belonged to the priory of St. Andrews;
and the building, though of unascertained antiquity,
and though situated at the south-eastern extremity
of the parish, away from the great bulk of the pop-
ulation, continued to be used unreservedly till the
year 1837, when the heritors resolved to erect a
better. There are in the parish a Free church, with
an attendance of 320, and an Independent chapel,
with an attendance of 80. Sum raised by the Free
church in 1865, £367 0s. 5d.
FOEGANDENNY, a parish partly in Kinross-
shire, but chiefly in Perthshire. It contains the
village of Forgandenny and the hamlet of Path of
Condie. Its post-town is Bridge-of-Earn, a short
distance east of its north-eastern extremity. Its
form is nearly that of a slender parallelogram,
stretching north and south, but sending oif a con-
siderable stripe south-westward from its south-west
angle. It is bounded on the north by the Earn,
which divides it from Aberdalgie and a detached
part of Forteviot ; on the east by Dunbamy, Dron,
and Arngask ; on the south by a second detached
part of Forteviot and by Orwell ; and on the west by
Dunning and the main body of Forteviot. Its
greatest length is about 8 miles, and its greatest
breadth 3 or 3£ ; but apart from its south-westward
stripe, it is only about 5 miles long. The northern
division is part of the fertile beautiful valley of
Strathearn; and though it rises gradually as it re-
cedes southward, it is on the whole level. The
southern division runs up among the Ochils, and is
hilly and upland, and occasionally bare; yet it can-
not be regarded as a rocky or sterile region, most of
its hills being, with some small exceptions,' either
good pasture or remunerating corn-field. The
Earn, along the northern boundary, describes some
of those graceful curves, and forms some of those
beautiful peninsulas, for which it has been so much
admired ; and produces salmon, different sorts of
trout, pike, perch, eel, and flounders. May water
comes down upon the extremity of the south-west-
ern stripe, forms for 2 miles its north-west boundary-
line, runs across it to the village of Path-of-Condie,
forms for f of a mile its south-east boundary, receives
from the east a rill which had flowed 2A miles along
the boundary of the parallelogram, and now inter-
sects the parish for 2f miles in a direction west of
north, and leaves it on the west side at Torrance.
Besides containing eels, smelt, and some flounders,
it plentifully produces a veiy finely flavoured trout
about the size of a herring. Both the Earn and the
May sometimes overflow their banks on the strath ;
but they amply compensate any damage they inflict,
by their richly manurial deposits. Whinstone for
building, and ironstone, abound. A species of lime-
stone occurs on the banks of the May. In the wood
of Condie among the Ochils, copper, lead, and sil-
ver ores have been found. In the southern or up-
land division, the soil consists of reddish clay, black
ear'th, and sand ; and is, for the most part, light and
better adapted to produce oats than any other sort
of grain. In the northern division, much of the sur-
face is carse-ground, and this is continued along
Strathearn, through the north-eastward parishes of
Perthshire to the carse of Gowrie, — that carse and
the carse of Strathearn being interrupted in their
continuity only by the channel of the Tay. The
grounds immediately on the Earn are sandy meadow
land; but those beyond them have a soil of rich
black earth and clay, and carry luxuriant crops of
every sort of agricultural produce. Only about
1,000 acres in the parish have never been cultivated;
and another 1,000 have lately been profitably re-
claimed. The rent of land varies from 3s. to £3.
The principal landowners are Lady Buthven, Oli
phant of Condie, Oliphant of Rossie, and Fechney
of Ardargie. The mansions are Freeland, Rossie,
and Condie. On the estate of Lady Ruthven,
not far from the mineral springs of Pitcaithlie,
is a medicinal fountain similar to these springs
in its properties. The waters are moderately
cathartic, and give relief chiefly in cases of rheu-
matism and scurvy. On the estate of Mr. Oliphant
of Rossie, is another medicinal spring, — a chalybeate.
In the west border of the low part of the parish are
traces of a fortification which may have been an
outpost of the Romans while they were in Strathearn,
On a height above the May, at Ardargie, Is a square
270 feet in extent on each side, naturally defended
on one side by a deep hollow traversed by a brook,
artificially defended on the other sides by trenches
14 feet deep and about 30 feet wide, and called,
from time immemorial, ' the Roman Camp.' Up-
wards of a mile south of the village of Forgandenny,
on the summit of a lofty conical hill, called Castle-
law, are extensive remains of what is supposed to
have been a Danish fortification. Vestiges of a cir-
cular stone-wall describe a circumference of about
1,500 feet; and they enclose remains of buildings,
and appear to have been defended by several out-
works. The site of the fortification commands a
view of all Strathearn and the carse of Gowrie to
the Grampian mountains on the west, all the coun-
try to the south of the Tay or the German ocean on
the east, a great part of Forfarshire and Perthshire
on the north-east and north, and the tops of the
Lomond hills on the south. The parish is traversed
by the Scottish central railway, and has a station on
it 4 miles south-west of Perth. The village of For-
gandenny is situated between the houses of Free
land and Rossie, about a mile from the Earn; and
is divided into two parts by the intersecting course
of a brook. It is the site of the parish church and
the Free church, and is inhabited by artisans and
labourers. Population of the village, 84. Houses,
25. Population of the parish in 1831, 917; in 1861,
739. Houses, 165. Assessed property in 1866,
£7,754 5s. Population of the Kinross-shire section
in 1831, 32; in 1861, 12. Houses, 2.
This parish is in the presbytery of Perth, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £199 lis. lid.; glebe, £15. Schoolmaster's
salary, £45, with £10 fees, and £2 10s. other
emoluments. The parish church is a very old
building, repaired not many years ago, and contain-
ing 410 sittings. The Free church has about 350
sittings: attendance, 240; receipts in 1865, £133
Is. 9d. There is an United Presbyterian church
at Path of Condie, built in 1758, and containing 380
sittings. There is an endowed school at Path oi
Condie.
FORGIE. See Arngask.
FORGLEN, a parish, containing a post-office sta-
tion of its own name, on the north-eastern border of
Banffshire. It is bounded by Aberdeenshire, and
by the parishes of Marnoch and Alvah. Its length
south-eastward is 5^ miles; and its breadth is 3 J
miles. The river Deveron traces all the boundary
with Aberdeenshire, making a run upon it of about
6 miles first north-eastward and next north-north-
westward, changing its direction at the most eastevlv
FORGITE.
G77
FORRES.
neck of the parish ahout a mile from Turriff. For-
glen was at one time a district of Alvah; but, in
the first half of the 17th century, it was erected
into a separate parish ; and an annexation, quoad
civilia et sacra, was made to it from Mamoch. It is
sometimes called St. Eunon's or Teuiian'a parish,
from a saint of that name, to whom a chapel, the
remains of which still exist, is said to have been
dedicated. The surface is beautifully varied with
gently rising grounds; and has a gradual slope to-
wards the Deveron. The soil is light and fertile,
and the greater part is under a state of high agri-
cultural improvement. It is well-sheltered by woods
and hills, which, with the genial nature of the soil,
render the climate decidedly mild. Clay-slate is
quarried in several places ; and there are two
mills. Forglen house, a superb castellated edifice
erected in 1842, stands near the Deveron, in a most
beautiful situation. Carnousie-house is a fine man-
sion. The landowners are Sir G. Abercromby,
Ban,., Harvey of Carnousie, and Morrison of Mount-
blairy. In 1836 the rent of land averaged 18s. per
acre, and the parochial area comprised 3,617 acres
in a state of cultivation, 1,055 of waste or pasture
land, 1,129 capable of profitable reclamation, and
1,433 under wood. The value of property as as-
sessed in 1860 was £4,470. Population in 1831,
820; in 1861, 783. Houses, 150.
This parish is in the presbytery of Turriff, and
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, Sir G. Abercromby,
Bart. Stipend, £175 5s. 10d.; glebe, £14. School-
master's salary, £50, with £22 15s. fees and
other emoluments, besides a share of the Dick be-
quest. The parish church was built in 1806, and
contains ahout 450 sittings. There is a Free church :
attendance 100; sum raised in 1865, £54 15s.
There are two non-parochial schools, and an excel-
lent parochial library.
FOBGUE, a parish, containing a post-office station
of its own name, on the north-western border of
Aberdeenshire. It is hounded by Banffshire, and by
the parishes of Auchterless, Culsamoud, Insch,
Drumblade, and Huntly. Its length, south-east-
ward, is about 9 miles ; and its greatest breadth is
about 6 miles. The Deveron traces part of the
north-western boundary ; the Ury traces part of the
south-eastern boundary; the Ythan rises in the
interior, and runs away into Auchterless; and two
burns, called the Forgue and the Frendranght, drain
the greater part of the interior, become confluent,
and fall into the Deveron. These two bums have
many romantic windings; and the former of them
is beautifully skirted with wood. The general sur-
face of the parish is a fine, undulating, pleasant al-
ternation of vales and hillocks, holms and knolls.
The north-western extremity is occupied by the
hill of Foreman : which see. The other tracts near
the Deveron, together with the central districts, dis-
play much amenity of both feature and decoration.
The south-eastern tracts, contiguous to the Ury, are
mainly a series of bleak, cold, moorish heights,
called the hills of Foudland. The soil, in the lower
districts, is generally a deep rich loam on a clay
bottom, producing heavy crops. Towards the south,
the ground is still partly in a state of nature, and
covered with heath; but the proprietors have been
sparing neither trouble nor expense in improving
their several estates, in which they have been aided
by the exertions of industrious and spirited farmers.
Much of the waste grounds, incapable of being
turned to any better account, have been covered
with plantation. The most extensive landowners
are Morison of Bognie, and Simpson of Cobairdy;
and there are twelve others. The mansions are
Fre.ndraught. Cobairdy, Haddo, Auchaber, Corse,
Drumblair, Boyne's-mill, and Templeland. The sit-
uation, grounds, and historical associations of Fren-
draught — or, as it is popularly called, Frennet —
possess much interest. There are still some remains
of the old castle of Frendraught, the ancient seat of
the Crichton family, between whom and the Gor-
dons of Eothiernay arose in the early part of the
17th century, a feud which figures prominently in
both song and story. The tower of the castle, at a
moment when Viscount Aboyne, the laird of Kothie-
may , and two or three of their followers were in it, was
destroyed by a conflagration, so sudden and great
as to prevent their escape; and a popular ballad
alleges that they had been treacherously enticed to
it by its lady with a view to their destruction.
" When Frennet castle's ivied walls
Through yellow leaves were seen;
When birds forsook the sapless houghs,
And bees the faded green ;
Then Lady Frennet, vengeful dame,
Did wander frae the ha'
To the wild forest's dovvie gloon
Among the leaves that fa',"
there to find her victims, and entice them to the
castle for their ruin. There are in the parish several
Druidical temples and the vestiges of an ancient
encampment. The parish has an average distance
of only about 7 miles from Huntly; and is traversed
by the roads thence to Banff and to Aberdeen.
There is a large distillery at Glendronach. There
are in various parts six corn-mills. Fairs are held
at Hawkhall on the third Tuesday of April, the last
Thursday of May, and the third Tuesday of Sep-
tember, all old style. Population in 1831, 2,286;
in 1861, 2,686. Houses, 536. Assessed property in
1860, £11,006.
This parish is in the presbytery of Turriff, and
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, Morison of Bognie.
Stipend, £191 6s. 5d.; glebe, £18. Unappropriated
teinds, £406 13s. 8d. There are two parochial
schools with salaries of £45 and £35, together with
other emoluments. The parish church was built in
1819, and contains S14 sittings. There is a Free
church: attendance, 650; sum raised in 1865, £244
12s. There is an Episcopalian chapel, which
was built in 1795, and contains 230 sittings. There
was formerly a small Secession church at Bogfouton.
There are 5 or 6 non-parochial schools and a savings'
bank. The ancient name of the parish was Forrig.
FORHAILLON. See Dunkeld (Little.
FORMAL (Knock of), a hill, rising to an altitude
of about 1,500 feet, at the west end of the Loch of
Lintrathen, on the western border of Forfarshire.
It is covered with wood to the top.
FOEMAN. See Foreman.
FOEMAETINE, an ancient middle district of
Aberdeenshire, which gives the title of Viscount to
the Earls of Aberdeen. It is bounded by Buchan
on the north-east ; by a ridge of low hills near Old
Meldram, by which it is separated from Garioch, on
the south-west; and by Strathbogie on the north-
west. It includes all the lands along the coast for 10
miles between the Don and the Ythan ; then crosses
the Ythan, and extends to the banks of the Deveron,
by Turriff. It consists partly of a stony soil inter-
sected by bogs, and partly of an excellent clay ca-
pable of a high degree of improvement. It com-
prises 16 parishes, and has an area of 280 square
miles.
FOENETH, a post-office station and an estate,
in the parish of Clunie, Perthshire. See Clunte.
FOEEES, a parish, containing a royal burgh of
its own name, in the north-west of Morayshire. It
is bounded by the estuary of the Findhorn, and by
the parishes of Kinloss, Eafford, Edenkillie, and
FORRES.
678
FORRES.
Dyke and Moy. Its form is irregular, approaching
to a triangle, with a strip of moorish and hill ground
about 3 miles in length, stretching from one corner.
It is 4 miles in length, and 2£ in breadth, and con-
tains about 9 square miles. The river Findhorn
flows on the western boundary. The bum of For-
res, coming in from Rafford, winds through the
interior, past the west end of the burgh, on to the
estuary of the Findhorn. The north-western dis-
trict of the parish, to the extent of more than half
of the entire area, is a low alluvial plain, in a state
of high cultivation. The central district is diversi-
fied by small round hills and gentle acclivities,
cultivated on the sides and crowned with wood.
The southern district rises to a considerable ele-
vation, and is naturally moor or moss, but has been
extensively reclaimed, and is in some parts covered
with plantation. About 33 parts in 52 of the whole
parochial area are cultivated, 7 uncultivated, and 1.2
under wood. The arable lands yield crops equal
to any in Scotland. " In point of situation and
climate," says the Old Statistical Account, " this
parish is inferior to no part of Scotland. The air is
dry, serene, and healthy. Less rain falls here than
in most other parts in the kingdom; the showers
being attracted by the Moray frith on the north,
and on the south by the hills which divide Moray
from Strathspey." There is a limestone quarry on
the farm of Mundole. The fishing in the river and
estuary of the Findhorn is of considerable impor-
tance. There are flour-mills, meal-mills, a saw-mill,
a woollen manufactory, and extensive nurseries.
The total yearly value of raw produce was esti-
mated in 1842 at £18,300. Assessed property in
1860, £10,343. The valued rental is £2.954 6s.
6d. Scots; the real rental about £6,000 sterling.
The most extensive landowners are Tytler of Burd-
yards and Peterkin of Invererne. The principal
mansions are Sanquhar -house, Invererne -house,
Forres-house, and Drumduan. The great road
from Aberdeen to Inverness traverses the parish;
and an elegant suspension -bridge takes it across
the Findhorn, erected in 1832 at the cost of nearly
£7,000. Population in 1831, 3,896; in 1861, 4,112.
Houses, 8"21.
This parish is the seat of a presbytery in the
synod of Moray. Patron, the Earl of Moray.
Stipend, £274 3s. 2d.; glebe, £22. The parish
church was built in 1775, and repaired and enlarged
in 1839, and contains about 1,000 sittings. The
Free church contains 783 sittings; and the sum
raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £448 0s. 2d.
The United Presbyterian church was built in 1812,
and contains 712 sittings. The Independent chapel
was built in 1802, and contains 500 sittings. There
are also an Episcopalian chapel, with 280 sittings,
and a small Evangelical Union chapel or New In-
dependent. Attendance on the Census Sabbath in
1851 at the parish church, 630; at the Free church,
775; at the United Presbyterian church, 650; at
the Episcopalian chapel, 66; at the two Independent
chapels, 240. Four public schools are associated
in the academy, which is also called Anderson's
Institution. The teachers of three of these, being
the parochial schoolmasters, receive salaries from
the funds of the burgh; and the fourth, a charity
school for the parishes of Forres, Rafford, and Kin-
loss, is endowed with funds left by the late Jonathan
Anderson, Esq. of Glasgow. The branches taught
at the academy are English, French, Latin, Greek,
writing, arithmetic, mathematics, geography, his-
tory, and drawing. The sum of about £1,000 ster-
ling was recently bequeathed for educational pur-
poses in Forres by Mr. Peter Fraser, a native of the
town, who spent most of his life in North America.
There are in the town a ladies' boarding school,
dancing schools, private boys' schools, and girls'
schools. Mr. James Dick, who bequeathed the
noble sum of £140,000 for the benefit of the parochi-
al schoolmasters of the counties of Moray, Banff,
and Aberdeen, was a native of Forres.
On the south-eastern side of the burgh is a small
glen, between the Cluny hills and the straggling
houses on the Rafford road, which is known by the
extraordinary soubriquet of Hell's-hole-valley. The
Cluny hills, observe the commissioners on munici
pal burghs, " have been judiciously planted by the
burgh, and walks formed through them by private
subscription, open to all the inhabitants ; an ap-
propriation of burgh property which might with ad-
vantage be more generally imitated." On one of
these eminences is a lofty Pharos, commemorative
of Nelson and the battle of Trafalgar. To the site
of it an excellent winding road conducts the travel-
ler from the town. The tower is an octagonal
fabric, on a diameter of 24 feet including the walls
at the base, raised to the height of 70 feet, and com-
pleted by a battlement and a flagstaff. " The view
from the top of this tower," says Mr. Rhind, " em-
braces the richly wooded and fertile plains to the
west, through which winds the Findhorn, the un-
dulating hills to the south, a large open country to
the east, and the blue waters of the ocean flowing
upon the north, bounded, in the distance, by the
Sutherland and Ross - shire hills, and the two
Sutors, which guard the entrance to the bay ot
Cromarty, forming a combination of rich and varied
scenery which few situations can rival." Skrine,
approaching Forres from Elgin, thus describes the
landscape, after fording the Lossie, and traversing
the heath on which Macbeth is supposed to have
encountered the weird sisters : " Forres, when we
could find room to view it, presented a neat town,
pleasantly situated between two little hills, and at
a small distance from the great ridge of moors
which forms the outwork of the Highlands towards
this coast. A country well-wooded, and admirably
cultivated, lay between them and the forest of Dar-
naway, with the noble towers of its ancient castle,
the seat of the Earl of Moray, stood forward in the
landscape, presenting a great contrast to the bar-
ren and unornamented districts we had passed.
Towards the sea the change was not less observable,
the grand display of the northern bay of Scotland
became confessed to view, the objects which form
the outline of it being scarcely to be matched in
any country. The high point called the Pap of
Caithness, with the Ord and its adjoining ridge of
hills, forms the extreme horn ©f this bay toward the
north, the indented points of the hills of Sutherland
follow next, and the entrance of the great frith of
Dornoch is visible between them and the low pro-
jecting promontory of Tarbat-Ness, which seems to
lose itself in the sea. Throughout the interior parts
of the country innumerable ridges of hills extend
themselves over the horizon between the hollow of
this aperture, and forming themselves into a bold
amphitheatre round it, close in again at length with
the coast, terminating abruptly in the two lofty
rocks called the Sutors of Cromarty. Through
these noble portals enters a narrow channel, which
expands itself in sight into the beautiful inland
bay of the frith of Cromarty, capable of containing
all the navies of Europe within its sweetly wooded
shores, studded with a variety of towns and villages,
decked with every possible beauty of cultivation,
and ornamented with a profusion of gentlemen's
seats. Immediately beneath the rocks which en-
close this basin the frith of Moray expands itself to
the left till it becomes lost amidst the great moral-
FORRES.
679
FORRES.
tains of Ross-shire and Inverness towering into the
clouds, and rising in an infinite variety of pointed
summits."
FORRES, a post and market town, a royal burgh,
the second town of Morayshire, stauds 3 miles
south by west of Findhom, 12 west by south of
Elgin, 21 west of Fochabers, 27 north-east of In-
verness, 75 north-west of Aberdeen, and 157
north-north-west of Edinburgh. Its site is a fine
diy terraced bank, sloping gently towards the south
and the north. The town, as seen at a distance,
closely resembles Elgin ; and though it contains
only about half the population, yet at first sight it
appears nearly as large as Elgin. The green ele-
vation which nature presented at its western end
as an admirable situation for a castle, and the excel-
lent land extending every way around it, may, as in
the case of Elgin, have determined the situation,
long before even the idea of commerce or of its ad-
vantages had been formed. The Forres burn, a
considerable stream, embraces half the circumfer-
ence of the base of the castle-hill, and winds close
behind the town on its northern side, adorned at
either end by a neat stone-bridge. The town con-
sists principally of one long High street, extending
for nearly 800 yards along the great road to Inver-
ness, which leads hence through Elgin on the east,
and Nairn on the west. There are lanes or closes
running off on each side ; the northern terminating
in a crooked back-street, and two or three of the
southern uniting by scattered houses in the Rafford
road, leading out to the Cluny hills and Hell's-hole
valley. Several villas have been erected in the
vicinity. The streets are neat and clean, and sup-
plied from Rafford with water. The houses in
general are modem and well-built, mostly of three
stories, though several of the lower habitations of
a preceding age yet remain, with their gable ends
to the street. There are here, however, none of the
fine old piazzaed edifices still to be seen in Elgin ;
and indeed there are fewer remains of antiquity
either domestic or ecclesiastical. The parish church
is a plain edifice, on the north side of the High
street, near the west end. The Episcopalian chapel
has a very elegant interior. Anderson's institution,
situated in the south-eastern part of the town, is a
handsome Grecian building, with a spire and public
clock. The town-house, in the centre of the town,
is a very beautiful Gothic edifice, built in 1839 on
the site of a tolbooth which had stood there from
the beginning of the 18th century. It has on one
side a square tower with a bartizan, on which is
raised another of octagonal shape, surmounted by a
cupola and vaue. It contains a spacious court-
house, offices for the county authorities, a council
chamber, a record-room, the post-office, and business
apartments for the town -clerk. St. Lawrence
mason lodge is another fine public building, con-
taining ball-room, supper-room, and other apart-
ments.
Two chief antiquities of Forres are the celebrated
Sweno's stone or the Forres pillar, and the witches'
stone ; and these are not in the town itself, but in
its eastern environs. The Forres pillar is not even
within the parish, yet stands inseparably related to
the town in both name and history. It is a magni-
ficent Runic obelisk, of dark grey stone, on the
west side of the Findhorn road, about half-a-mile
to the east of the burgh. The stone steps around
the base were placed as supports to the pillar by a
Countess of Moray, Lady Ann Campbell, upwards of
a century ago. The stone itself is a hard grey
sandstone, 23 feet in height above ground, and at
least three feet, but said to be 14 feet, additional, in
depth, uuder ground ; the breadth, at the base, is 4
feet; the thickness, about 15 inches. On the
northern side, as represented in the careful and in-
teresting drawings of it presented by Mr. Alexan-
der, in the ' Sketches of Moray,' there is carved a
long cross ; the branches at the top being within a
circle. The cross, and the entire lateral spaces, are
most ingeniously and elaborately carved, in intricate
and endless convolutions representing the Runic
knot. Below are two figures with human heads
but grotesque forms, bending over something inter-
mediate, as if in prayer, while a smaller human
figure stands behind each. All these figures have
broad caps or bonnets on their heads. On the south
side are five divisions, each filled up with numerous
figures in relief, some of them apparently proces-
sional, or representing troops on foot and mounted,
with captives, male and female, bound together.
The edges are richly carved in Runic knots, and, at
the base, on one side, are human forms, some of
which appear to be females, grouped in couples.
This obelisk is decidedly one of the most remarkable
of ancient date in Britain ; and it bears every ap-
pearance of having owed its origin to a period of
remote antiquity. There are various traditions re-
garding it ; but it is supposed either to commemo-
rate a pacification, here concluded between Malcolm
II. and Sweno, the Danish invader, about the begin-
ning of the 11th century, or the murder of King
Durfus, in the castle of Forres, and the execution of
the murderers. The character of the figure seems
to favour the latter tradition, — the traditionary
name of the obelisk, the former. — The ' Witches'
stane ' was that on which the unfortunate behigs
accused of witchcraft were wont to suffer. It also
is situated on the roadside to the east of the burgh.
"Some years ago, when the turnpike-road was in
progress," says Mr. Rhind, " the workmen pro-
ceeded to break down this mass of stone, when the
townspeople, discovering the depredation, and at-
tached to a relic of bygone times, immediately
caused it to be clasped with iron, in which state it
still remains."
Forres must have been a place of some note at a
very early period. It is in all probability the
Varris of Ptolemy's chart. Boethius, too, so early
as the year 535, makes mention of it as a burgh
having merchants, who, for some trifling cause,
were put to death, and their goods confiscated to
the King's use. Far-ius, ' near the water,' is pro-
bably the Gaelic derivation of the name. During
the ninth and tenth centuries, it was frequently
visited by the Scottish kings. Donald, the son of
Constantine, was slain at Forres. Malcolm fre-
quently resided in the vicinity, and was killed in
959, at Ulern, which Shaw supposes was Auldearn.
King Dufius, as already noticed, was murdered in
the castle of Forres by Donevald the governor,
about the year 966 ; his body, according to Boethi-
us and Buchanan, being interred under the bridge
of Kinloss. This murder is a memorable incident;
and the spot on which it was committed is an object
of no little interest and curiosity from the certainty
that Shakspeare made noble use of it in his dra-
matic version of the murder of King Duncan by
Macbeth. The genius of Shakspeare, indeed, has
immortalized the town of Forres. It is the scene
of a great part of the tragedy of Macbeth ; and it
was on a " blasted" heath in the vicinity that that
singular hero, along with Banquo — according to all
the old historians, whom Shakspeare copied — met
the weird sisters who gave him so many fatal
" words of promise to the ear." See article Dyke
and Mot. In consequence of the atrocious murdei
of Duffus, Forres castle, which had long been a
royal fortress, was demolished; but, at a period
FORRES.
680
FORTEVIOT.
much later — that of the civil war — another was
founded on the same site ; of which second erection
the sub-basement still exists to evince the bold and
stately aspect of the ancient structure. In 1346,
Randolph, Earl of Moray, dates his charters from
this castle. During some subsequent period, the
Urquharts of Cromarty were appointed heritable
keepers of it. In still later times it became the
property of the Dunbars of Westfield ; and it is now
in the possession of the Earl of Seafield. Like the
castle on Lady hill at Elgin, it was, in all pro-
bability, a strong square tower, with battlements,
and a moat surrounding it, and served as a place of
defence and safety. After the establishment of the
bishopric of Elgin, Forres does not appear to have
kept up its ancient consequence so much as Elgin,
which then became the centre of the ecclesiastical
establishments of the province, and the resort of the
country gentry. See Elgin. It was the seat of the
archdeacon, however, and had a parsonage dedicat-
ed to St. Lawrence. There was a chapel also, a
mile south of the town, and one at Logie.
It is not known when Forres was erected into a
royal burgh, as the more ancient charters were lost,
or destroyed before the end of the 15th century.
There is evidence, however, from various sources,
that it had obtained the privileges of a royal burgh
as early as the reign of William the Lion or Alex-
ander II. Eobert I. granted a charter to his
nephew, Thomas Ranulph, of the earldom of Mo-
ray ; but this burgh, and likewise Elgin and Inver-
nairn, though they were to hold of the Earl, were
ordained, in other respects, to enjoy their old liber-
ties. In the reign of James IV., Forres obtained a
new infeftment, granting to the community the pri-
vileges of a free burgh, the exclusive jurisdiction of
a sheriffship, and power to hold a weekly market
and yearly fair, with right to dues and customs.
A ratification by parliament, in 1607, of the charters
of the earldom of Moray, in favour of James, Earl
of Moray, particularly excepts the burgh-mails
of Elgin and Forres, which had previously been
claimed by the Earls, thenceforth to remain with
the Crown. The boundary of the royalty — a circuit
of about 15 miles — was perambulated in 1840. The
town-council is composed of 17 members, — a pro-
vost, three bailies, a dean-of-guild, a treasurer, and
1 1 councillors. Previous to the burgh reform act,
there was no provision against the re-appointment
of the council and magistrates; and, in practice,
they were frequently continued in office for many
years. The burgh is still possessed of considerable
property, although it had alienated, at an early
period, and for trifling feu-duties, property in land
and fishings which has of late become of veiy great
value. The corporation revenue in 1832 was £619
19s. 9d.,— in 1839, £592— in 1854, £706 10s. lOd;
and is derived principally from lands, feu-duties,
and petty customs. It is not known that the ex-
clusive jurisdiction of sheriffship was at any time
exercised. The ordinary jurisdiction of the magis-
trates, which extends over the royalty, including
the whole town, is in practice confined, in civil
matters, to actions for debt ranging from £5 to
.£30, interdicts, poindings, &c. The principal pa-
tronage consists of the corporation offices and the
schools. There have been no incorporations of
trades in this burgh. The guildry was discon-
nected from the body of the burgesses. The magis-
trates and town council for the time being are com-
missioners of police. Sheriff small debt circuit
courts are held on the second Monday of February,
April, June, August, October, and December ; and
justice of peace courts on the first Monday of every
month. Forres unites with Nairn, Fortrose, and
Inverness in sending a member to parliament.
Municipal constituency in 1862, 159; parliamentary
constituency, 171.
Forres is not a place of manufacturing impor-
tance. It used to export great quantities of linen
yarn; but it lost that trade after the rise of the
cotton manufacture. Its chief employment now
consists in the ordinary handicrafts, and in miscel-
laneous marketing. Its retail trade, in the supply
of surrounding rural districts, is considerable. It
likewise conducts some export and import trade
through Findhom. In its immediate neighbour-
hood also are a brewery and a distillery. The
markets for butcher-meat and fish are held daily ;
for butter, eggs, and poultry, twice a-week; and for
grain eveiy Wednesday. Fairs are held on the first
Wednesday of January, on the third Wednesday of
February, April, and May, on the first Wednesday
of July, on the fourth Wednesday of August and
September, and on the third Wednesday of Novem-
ber. Feeing markets also are held on the Saturday
before Whitsunday and the Saturday before Martin-
mas. The town has a gas company, a water com-
pany, a national security savings' bank, branches of
the Caledonian bank, the National bank, and the
British Linen Company's bank, twenty-one insur-
ance agencies, a mechanics' institute, a building
association, three public connexions with fine arts'
institutions, three mason lodges, four friendly socie-
ties, a servants' register office, a clothing society, a
total abstinence society, a temperance convention,
an auxiliary Edinburgh society for the suppression
of drunkenness, an auxiliary Edinburgh Morayshire
society, an auxiliary Edinburgh Morayshire mecha-
nics' society, five mortifications and bequests for
benevolent purposes, amounting aggregately to
£5,708, a bible society, and a religious tract society.
A newspaper, called the Forres Gazette, is pub-
lished every Wednesday. Communication is main-
tained by the Great North of Scotland railway, with
Inverness and the east, and by steamer at Findhom
with all the principal eastern ports from Wick on
the north to Leith on the south. The principal
hotel is Fraser's. Population of the municipal
burgh in 1831, 3,424; in 1861, 3,148. Houses, 642.
Population of the parliamentary burgh in 1861,
4,112. Houses, 821.
FORREST-MILL. See Forest-Mit.l.
FORRIG. See Forgue.
FORSA (The), a rivulet of the parish of Torosay
and island of Mull, Argyleshire. It rises at the
base of Bentalluidh, and runs 4 miles to the Sound
of Mull at Pennygown. It is 22 yards broad at the
mouth. The glen which it traverses bears the
name of Glenforsa, and has an average width of
about | of a mile. The bottom of the glen has an
average elevation of about 160 feet above sea-level;
and the hills which flank it are covered variously
with grass and heath, and have an acclivity of
about 30 degrees.
FOESE (The), a small river of Caithness- shire.
It rises in the south-west of the parish of Halkirk,
and runs about 16 miles northward, partly within
Halkirk, partly within Reay, partly on the boundary
between Reay and Halkirk, and finally on the
boundary between Reay and Thurso, to a small
bay below the House of Forse, 5 miles west-south-
west of Holborn-head. It is subject to great sud-
den freshets which do much injury to the lands near
its banks. It contains trout and salmon.
FORT (St.). See Fifeshire.
FORT (The). See Eyemouth.
FORT-AUGUSTUS. See Augustus (Fort).
FORT-CHARLOTTE. See Charlotte (Fort).
FORTEVIOT, a parish, containing a village of
FORTEVIOT.
681
FORTH.
its own name, in the south-east of Perthshire. Its
post-town is Bridge of Earn. It comprises the
ancient parishes of Forteviot and Muckersie, and
consists of three separate sections, lying at a
considerable distance from one another. Tho
smallest section lies 2§ miles east of the north-
ern part of the largest section or main body ; mea-
sures If mile from west to east, and lj mile from
north to south ; and is bounded by the parishes of
Perth, Dunearn, Forgandenny, and Aberdalgie.
The Earn is the southern boundary-line, and is here
profuse in fishy produce, sinuous beauty of move-
ment, and valuable alluvial deposit. The district
may be described in two clauses ; it is part of the
fine carse of Strathearn, and part of the environs of
" the fair city" of Perth. The section of the parish
second in extent, lies 1J mile south-east of the
southern extremity of the main body ; has an ellip-
soidal form of 2 miles by If; and is bounded on the
north-west and north by Forgandenny, and on all
other sides by Kinross-shire. May water traces its
boundary £ of a mile on the north-west, and a rilly
tributary of that stream 1 J mile on the north. The
district lies wholly among the Ochil hills, and pos-
sesses, in general, their distinctive features. The
largest section Or main body of the parish has on
the north the form of a square 1£ mile deep, attached,
over one -half of its southern side, to one-half of th
base of an isosceles triangle, the other half project-
ing eastward ; and the triangle measures nearly 2
miles at its base, and 3J miles on its south-eastern
and south-western sides, and points its apex to the
south. The square part is bounded on the west by
Gask, on the north by Tippermnir, and on the east
by Aberdalgie; and the triangular part is bounded
on the south-east by Forgandenny, and on the
south-west by Dunning. The line of separation
between the square and the triangle is the river
Earn. That stream here intersects the district east-
ward, distributing favours the same in kind as in
the eastern section of the parish, but probably less
in degree. The river May comes down upon the
district from the south, forms for half-a-mile the
eastern boundary-line, then, making a sudden bend,
runs 1J mile into the interior, and then, making
another debouch, runs 1J mile northward to the
Earn, splitting its waters and forming an islet at its
point of influx. This little river, gathering its
waters among the Ochils, and now rioting at will,
and in beautiful meanderings in the rich level
of Strathearn, frequently swells to a great size, and
comes down in devastating floods. North of the
Earn are some fine plantations; and on the left
bank of the May is situated the mansion of Inver-
may, one of the most pleasant and romantic seats
in Strathearn. Among the extensive plantations
and natural woods which surround it, the birch
holds a conspicuous place, and perpetuates the re-
membrance of the scenery described in the ballad to
which it gaye rise, — "The Birks of Invermay."
In the vicinity, on the banks and in the water-
course of the stream, are natural curiosities and
glittering cascades which challenge the attention
and delight of strangers. See Mat. The roads
from Dunning to Perth, and to the Bridge of Earn,
and from Auchterarder to Perth, traverse the main
body of the parish ; and one of them is here carried
over the Earn on a stone bridge of 8 arches. The
Scottish Central railway also traverses this district,
and has a station here 2J miles from Dunning, 3
from Forgandenny, and 7 from Perth. Here like-
wise is the village of Forteviot, now a place of
small moment, but figuring in history, or rather
supposed to figure, as an ancient capital of Pictavia
and of Scotland. The real Forteviot of historv,
however, is a small eminence, now called the Haly-
hill, at the west end of Forteviot, overhanging tin!
May. The ruins of a royal palace on this emi-
nence, which had been a favourite residence of
Malcolm Canmore, as well as the residence of
several of his predecessors, and the death-place of
Kenneth II., were visited as curiosities so late as
the reign of Charles I.; but have all, long ago, been
swept away, partly by human dilapidation, and
partly by the undermining of the river. A mea-
dow a little east of the place still retains the name
of the King's Haugh. The mill of Forteviot and
the Coblehaugh, mentioned by Wyntoun, still re-
main. On the Miller's Acre, near the Halyhill,
Edward Baliol encamped his army in 1332, imme-
diately previous to the battle of Duplin. The prin-
cipal landowners of Forteviot are Belshes of Inver-
may, Lord Euthven, and the Earl of Kinnoul ; but
there are ten others. Assessed property in 1843,
£6,301 2s. Id. Population in 1831, 624; in 1861,
595. Houses, 115.
This parish is in the presbytery of Perth, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patrons, the Univer-
sity of St. Andrews, and the Belshes of Invermay.
Stipend, £244 9s. 9d. ; glebe, £6 15s. Unappropri-
ated teinds, £45 18s. Schoolmaster's salary, £34
4s. 4^d., with about £16 fees. The parish church
was built about the year 1778. The church or chapel
of Muckersey, used for that parish previous to its
union with Forteviot, stands on the banks of the
May, about a mile above the house of Invermay,
and is now used as the burying-placeof the Belshes
family.
FORT-GEORGE. See George (Fort).
FORTH, a village in the parish of Carnwath,
Lanarkshire. Population, 357.
FORTH (The), a large and beautiful river, tra-
versing two-thirds of the breadth of Scotland, and
flowing eastward from Benlomond to the German
sea. Its head-waters are gathered into two main
parent-streams, which rise respectively in Stirling-
shire and Perthshire, from points mutually distant,
north-eastward and south-westward, about 3 miles.
The southern stream wells up on the northern side
of Benlomond, in the parish of Buchanan, If mile
east of Scotland's most boasted lake, Lochlomond ;
and, bearing the name of Duchray water, it bounds
away 5 miles south-eastward to the eastern verge
of the parish of its nativity, wearing the rough cold
dress of a mountain-rill. At this point it is less
than a mile distant from the kindred rill with which
it is destined to unite ; but now it begins for some
distance to recede from it, and, for still a greater
distance, to run coquetishly between Stirlingshire
and Perthshire, before briefly entering the latter
county, where the union of the streams takes place.
Flowing a mile southward from the point where it
first touches Perthshire, it receives from the west
the tiny tribute of a stream of 3J miles in length,
which flows direct eastward to its embrace from the
southern side of Benlomond. A mile and three
quarters farther on, after a serpentine course south-
eastward, it is joined from the south-west by Cori-
grinnon burn, a stream of 4J miles in length. It now
ceases to touch Buchanan parish, and during 3J miles
eastward, divides Drymen on the south from Aber-
foj'le on the north, — the former in Stirlingshire and
the latter in Perthshire. A little beyond Duchray
castle on its right bank, it runs off from Drymen a
milenorth-eastwardinto Aberfoyle, andthere, after an
entire course of 11 J miles from its origin, forms a
confluence with the northern main head-water of
the Forth.
The latter stream, though magnificent in the land
of its origin, picturesque in the landscape of its
FORTH.
682
FORTH.
banks, romantic and frolicsome in its course, and
altogether much more interesting than the Duehray,
and abundantly entitled to the honour of being called
the aboriginal Forth, expands the laky mantle of its
waters, and leaps along the declivity of its mountain
glens, in the strange predicament of an incognito ;
for — odd though the circumstance may appear — it
seems to want a name, or, at all events, is known or
denominated, not in its proper character and its en-
tire extent, but only in the localities of its hoarding
up its waters, and spreading out their golden and
glittering beauties in the form of fascinating lakes.
The stream rises in two head-waters near the west-
ern verge of the parish of Aberfoyle, at spots half-a-
mile and It mile south of the joyously arrayed and
joyously celebrated Loch Katrine ; and both head-
waters, without making a previous confluence, and
after the brief courses respectively of 1J and lj mile,
become lost in the beautiful expanse of Loch Con.
This lake — overshadowed on one side with uplands
of stern aspect, protected and adorned on the other
by a broad array of plantation, variegated near the
efflux of its waters with an islet which figures like
a brooch on its glassy bosom, and everywhere rife
with eels and pike and trout — extends south-east-
ward 2 miles with an average breadth of 3 or 3J
furlongs. Scarcely has the stream of its surplus
waters issued from its lower extremity, when it ex-
pands in a lochlet, called Dow Loch, which seems
playfully imitative of the profuse beauty and fine
gracefulness of Loch Con ; and issuing thence, the
stream runs 1J mile south-eastward, and then sud-
denly plunges its diminutive flood into the ample
and beautiful waters, richly encinctured wfth grove
and variegated upland, of Loch Ard, extending 2§
miles westward, with an average breadth of § of a
mile, and rich, like Loch Con, in the multitude of its
finny inhabitants. After its repose in the bosom
of Loch Ard, the stream comes impetuously forth,
and makes a magnificent leap over a rock nearly
30 feet high, tossing up the spray, and at times re-
flecting the gorgeous tints of at least a second-rate
mountain cascade ; and less than a mile onward,
after an entire though somewhat sinuous course of
about 8£ miles, unites with the waters of the Du-
chray.
The united stream, even in the energy of its com-
bined resources and those of its numerous little tri-
butaries, is not yet honoured enough to assume the
name of the queenly Forth ; and during 5 miles of
its course, when it begins to divide from each other
the counties of its respective head-waters, it is known
simply as the Avendow or Black river. All the
way down to the point where the Avendow is
formed, its confluent waters are strictly mountain
brooks, moving garrulously along amongst the so-
litudes and the occasional romance of Highland
scenery ; and at the point of formation, as well as 2£
miles onwards, where it leaves the parish of Aber-
foyle, the Avendow flows softly along a beautiful fer-
tile valley, called the Laggan, flanked on both sides
by a fine amphitheatre of hills, with a narrow open-
ing toward the south-east; and through this opening
the river, after having passed some woody heights
and a beautiful round hill entirely covered with oak,
glides away to commence its remarkable, charac-
teristic, serpentine evolutions in the champaign
country which it henceforth traverses. After leav-
ing Aberfoyle, it flows 2J miles south-eastward,
thiough the parish of Port-of-Monteath ; and there,
struck by Kelly water, coming down upon it from
the west, it takes a persevering direction, with the
exception of its constant, involving, and often spa-
cious sinuosities, almost due east, and here assumes
its proper and proud name of the Forth.
In the peninsula between the Avendow and the
Kelly, 1J mile above their point of confluence where
they form what popular usage calls the Forth, stands
the mansion of Gartmore, commanding a view of
the magnificent plain below, 20 or 30 miles in ex-
tent, along which the noble river majestically pro-
ceeds. The river, after leaving the grounds of' Gart-
more, divides, for 3 miles, the parishes of Drymen
and Balfron in Stirlingshire from that of Port-of-
Monteath in Perthshire ; and then enters a south-
ward projection of the latter county, and, over a
distance of 2J miles geographically, or nearly 4
miles along the channel, divides the parishes of
Port-of-Monteath and Kippen. In this part of its
course, the scenery of the river and the far-off land-
scape within view, are particularly fine. Its ba-
sin or valley is a luxuriant carse, richly cultivat-
ed, and picturesquely embellished with neat farm-
steads, and with smiling or stately proprietorial
mansions. Dusky spots which here and there
streak the general verdure, delight by contrast, and
serve as a fine foil to the exulting loveliness of the
scene. The braes of Monteath rise on the northern
side like an amphitheatre ; and a rugged range of
the Grampians, stretching from Benlomond to the
Ochils, curtains the wide landscape, and casts down
upon it from the horizon along the north a shading
of sublimity. Stirling castle, too, and the rocks of
Craigforth and Abbeycraig appear away in the east,
like islands lifting their heads from a sea of ver-
dure, and often brilliantly encompassed with the
richest forms of cloudy drapery, leading on the
thoughts of the tasteful and travelled observer to
the bright blue inland sea, and the magnificent pan-
orama of Fifeshire and the Lothians which he knows
to lie beyond.
Leaving Kippen, or at least the main section of
it belonging to Perthshire, the Forth, over a dis-
tance of 9 miles geographically, but probably over
double that distance along the curves of its conti-
nual evolutions, divides the parishes of Balfron,
Gargunnock, and St. Ninians in Stirlingshire, from
those of Kilmadock and Kincardine in Perthshire,
receiving, just at the point of its leaving Kilmadock,
a tributary from the north-west of about 8 miles
length of water-course, and, at the point of leaving
Kincardine, the opulent tribute of the beautiful
Teith : which see. So capriciously, though grace-
fully, does the river move, that when about to re-
ceive the Teith, or about If mile above their con-
fluence, it departs from its usual easterly direction,
sends its windings away northward, and eventually
— as if eager to embrace the sister-stream of beauty
which is approaching — turns to the west of north ;
and, no sooner has it become united with the Teith
than, quite characteristically of its style of move-
ment, it suddenly debouches and resumes its pre-
vailing course toward the east. About 300 yards
below the confluence the river bounds over ledges
of rock, called the Cruives of Craigforth, which
stretch across its channel ; and from this point
downward, it is stemmed by the tide, and begins to
bear aloft on its bosom the small craft of the in-
land navigator. For \\ mile onward it intersects a
very small wing of Stirlingshire ; then receives
from the north the important tribute of Allan Wa-
ter, [which see ;] and then proceeds 1 J mile geo-
graphically, but about 1\ measuring along its
channel, dividing Stirling parish on the south from
the Stirlingshire part of Logie on the north, to the
point where it is spanned by the bridge on the great
north-road from Glasgow, and where it passes, a
few hundred yards from its right bank, the romantic
town and castle of Stirling. Over the latter part of
its course, or from a brief way after it enters the
FORTH.
083
FORTH.
champaign country, and especially after passing the
Cruives of Craigforth, it affords indications, in the
flatness and composition of its immediate hanks, of
having, at a former period, expanded into an es-
tuary and opened a path for the ingress of the sea
much higher up than at present; and along this
space it is dark-coloured in its waters, and sluggish
in its current, bearing — hut for the picturesqueness
of its back-ground scenery, and the remarkable
sinuosities of its channel — a somewhat close resem-
blance to the half-stagnant rivers of the level dis-
tricts of England. Up to Stirling bridge, known as
a celebrated pass, the river is navigated by sailing
vessels of small burden, and by steam-boats plying
between this point and Granton, — one of the ports
of Edinburgh.
From Stirling to Alloa, the Forth divides the par-
ishes of Stirling and St. Ninians in Stirlingshire
from the parish of Logie in Perthshire, and that of
Alloa in Clackmannanshire. The distance along
the channel is 18 miles, but in a direct line is only
6. Along this distance it flows through the lovely
plain called the carse of Stirling and Falkirk, car-
peted with the most fertile soil, and dressed in the
most luxuriant vegetable garb in Scotland; and,
while soft aud warm in the rich tints of its own
nicely-featured picture, so placed in a frame-work of
low hills on the south, and Stirling castle in the
west, and the majestic Ochils on the north, as to
draw down the prolonged and delighted gaze of even
a clownish observer. The sinuosities of the river
— or ' links,' as they are here called — almost be-
wilder by their union of excessive capriciousness
and uniform beauty ; forming sweeps, curves, cres-
cents, large parts of circles, and graceful departures
of every sort from the stern angle and the lank
straight line, which forcibly remind spectators,
who have read Burke on the Sublime and Beautiful,
of that philosopher's theory, as to the elements of
beauty. Many peninsulas are embosomed in the
watery foldings, vying in their form and adorn-
ments with the loveliness of the stream ; and on
one of them, immediately opposite Stirling, stands
the tower of Cambusrexneth, the only remnant of
a very venerable pile. Fertile fields, elegant man-
sions, tastefully ornamented parks, almost insulated
by the turns of the river, the ruinous abbey, the
white sails of vessels, on the right hand and the
left, in front and in the rear, seeming to glide among
lawns and groves, — these, and the brilliant features
of the background scenery, particularly with the
sublime forms of Dunmyat and the other frontier
Ochils soaring suddenly up on the north, lull ennui
to sleep, and lure the powers of taste into sprightly
activity while a stranger ascends or descends the
stream. Nor is he less delighted with the amusing
puzzle in which he finds himself constantly involved
to keep a just or even a proximate reckoning of the
relative positions of the objects which chiefly chal-
lenge his attention ; for now he is sailing direct
away from Stirling castle, or any other command-
ing feature of the landscape, and now he is bearing
down upon it right in front — he has it now on his
right hand and now on his left — again he recedes
from it and again advances — and at length, in utter
though charming perplexity, he relinquishes all
effort to recognise the points of the compass. " In
this sinuous navigation," says Mr. Gilpin, "were
the mariner to trust entirely to the sails, he would
have to wait for the benefit of every wind round the
compass several times over." And what Drayton
says respecting the Ouse may be said much more
respecting the links of Forth : —
* Ouse, in measured gyres, doth whirl herself about,
That, this way, here' and there, back, forward, in and out ;
And like a sportive nymph, oft doubling in her gait,
In labyrinth-like turns and twinings intricate,
Through these rich fields doth run."
Half-a-mile above Tullibody house, or 2J miles in
a direct line above Alloa, the Forth has become \
of a mile broad, and receives from the north the
large tribute of Devon water [see article Devon] ;
and, between that point and Alloa, it forms the is-
lands, each about half-a-mile in length, called Tul-
liebody and Alloa inches. At Alloa, situated on its
left bank, it relinquishes both its sinuosity of move-
ment and its fresh water character; and, from this
point, which is the extremity of its proper or pro-
ductive navigation, whither vessels come up of 300
tons burden, it partakes the expansion and the other
properties of a gradually widening and far-stretch-
ing estuary. From Alloa to a point on the same
shore opposite the embouchure of the Avon, at the
boundary between Stirlingshire aud West Lothian,
it flows south-east, over a distance of 7 miles, and
somewhat uniformly for a while, though more sud-
denly on the lower part of the distance, increases from
h a mile to 2§ miles in breadth, dividing the parishes
of Airth, Bothkennar, and Polmont in Stirlingshire,
from those of Alloa and Clackmannan in Clackman-
nanshire, and Tulliallan and Culross in Perthshire.
On its northern shore it passes, 2i miles below
Alloa, the village of Kennet-Pans, and 1J mile far-
ther on, the small town of Kincardine ; and, on its
southern shore, it receives, opposite Kincardine, a
considerable tributary, and 2 j miles farther down,
at the village of Grangemouth, receives the impor-
tant waters of the Carron, and sends off inland, away
to the west coast of Scotland, the Forth and Clyde
canal, and again, at 2 miles further distance, re-
ceives the tribute of the beautiful Avon. See arti-
cles Avon and Carron. At the latter point, though
2J- miles wide at high-water, it is only 1 mile at
low water; and at the mouth of the Carron and
commencement of the canal, it varies every 12
hours from If mile to J a mile ; and all the way
down from Alloa to a point several miles below the
influx of the Avon, it presents now the appearance
of a brilliant lake encompassed to the margin by a
gardenesque landscape, and now that of a lank
snaky river crawling dismally through a wet wil-
derness of sands and sleeches.
Nine miles onward from the mouth of the Avon
the Forth slightly contracts rather than expands,
and has an average breadth of 2& miles ; on its
northern shore, consisting for 2 miles of Perthshire,
and for the rest of the distance of Fifeshire, it is
studded at intervals with the villages of Culross,
Newmill, Torryburn, Charlestown, and Limekilns,
and has a beautiful and verdant back-ground ; on its
southern shore, consisting all the way of Linlith-
gowshire, it is overlooked by the dingy town of
Borrowstonness, and the village of Blackness, and
is rich in the sylvan beauties and lovely slopes and
undulations of its receding landscape. The Forth
now suddenly contracts to the breadth of 1 mile and
3 furlongs, but is compressed to this breadth entirely
by the protrusion, on its north side, of a peninsula
less than half-a-mile wide at the point; and having
embosomed the islet of Beemer, half-a-mile higher
up, the estuary, at the narrowest part of its con-
traction, is overlooked by the Linlithgowshire town
of South-Queensferry and the Fifeshire village of
North-Queensferry, both pressing close upon its
beach ; and, in its centre, or at equal distances be-
tween them, it embosoms the fortified islet of Ineh-
garvie. It now suddenly expands to the breadth
of 3 miles, sends off, behind North-Queensferry, a
small bay, at the head of which stands the town of
Inverkeithing, and henceforth to the sea, a distance
FOKTH.
684
FOKTH.
of 36 miles, divides Fifesliire on the north from the
three Lothians, West, Slid, and East, on the south.
Four miles below Inchgarvie are Cramond Isle, § of
a mile from the southern shore; Incheolm, with its
attendant islets, Haystack and Carcraig, f of a mile
from the northern shore ; and the little islet, Stone
Miekery, in the middle of the channel ; the first over-
looked from the coast by the picturesque demesnes
of Cramond house and Barnhougle castle, and the
second by the church and village of Aberdour. The
Forth is here 5 miles broad, and altogether gorgeous
in the magnificence of its encircling landscape.
Six and a half miles farther on, it runs abreast of
Inchkeith, which stretches nearly a mile across the
centre of its channel. The Forth has here hung around
it a panorama so exquisitely blending the attrac-
tions of natural, burghal, agricultural, and marine
landscape, as to exult in the powerlessness of an ar-
tist's quill or pencil to attempt a copy. On the
north, pressing upon the beach, and so briefly asun-
der as almost to be a continuous town, are the vil-
lages of Burntisland, Pettycur, and Kinghorn, ' the
lang toon o' Kirkcaldy,' and the villages of Path-
head, Dysart, and Wemyss, the first somewhat west
of Inchkeith, and all within a range of !\ miles ;
forming a burghal array, so soft and cheerful in the
aspect and grouping of its houses, and interspersed
in such fine proportions with fields and trees and
rural adornings, as to make a truly picturesque
edging to the magnificent expanse of waters ; and
behind this singular foreground Fifeshire recedes in
various ascents, chiefly slow and reluctant, looking
down in wooded slopes and undulations upon the
frith below, and seeming to reciprocate all the glad-
n ess of the scene, till it shoots finally up in three con-
spicuous elevations near the centre of the county.
On the south the large village of Newhaven, the
towns of North and South-Leith, the beautiful town
of Portobello, the village of Joppa, and the towns of
Fisherrow and Musselburgh, — the first 2 miles west
of Inchkeith, and all within a range of 6J miles, —
press upon the shore, and send out their yawls or
ships or steam-vessels to bound on the bosom of
the waters, and enliven its landscape by their forms
and movements; and behind this long phalanx of pic-
turesque building are seen, on the foreground, the
magnificent queen city of Scotland spreading out her
ascending tiers of streets like the foldings of her robes,
bearing aloft edifices on her Castle-rock and Calton-
hill which look like regalia, and wearing an aspect
of surpassing urban grandeur, and even sublimity,
amidst the bold elevations and the remarkable out-
lines of the hills in her environs ; while away in the
distance, over a various, undulating landscape, ex-
cept where the hills of Edinburgh intercept the view,
the heathy yet verdant and sylvan heights of the
Pentlands, and the dark range of the Lammermoor
hills bound the horizon. And while all this mag-
nificence is hung out immediately opposite Inch-
keith, the whole coast-line of the far-stretching frith,
wends, on both shores, inland and seaward, in front
of scenery rich jn its loveliness, and exquisitely in
keeping with the more powerful attractions of the
immediate landscape; and the frith itself — dotted
over with the white sails of sailing-craft or streaked
with the foam and the smoke of steam-vessels, and
overlooked from the far east by the huge loaf-like
form of the Bass lying on the surface of its own
waters, and by the beautiful cone of North Berwick
law standing close upon its southern shore — stretches
onward to the sea, glittering in the tints and reflec-
tions of the sunbeams playing upon its waters, and,
in general, gorgeously shaded with an aerial drapery
of clouds.
At Leith the Forth is 6 miles broad ; and, at the
Bass, opposite the Anstruthers, and somewhat west
of Fifeness, or the point where it fairly becomes lost
in the ocean, it is 11 miles broad. Four miles
east of Wemyss, on the north shore, it receives
Leven water; and on the south shore it receives
Almond water at Cramond, Leith water at Leith,
Esk water at Musselburgh, and Tyne water 4 miles
west of Dunbar. Four and a half miles from the
Fife coast, a little west of Fifeness, it embosoms
May island ; and, near the coast of East Lothian, it
has, at various intervals, the islets of Eyebroughy.
Fiddray, Lamb, Craig-Leith, Scarr, and the Bass.
At intervals, on its northern shore, east of West
Wemyss, are the villages of East Wemyss, Buck-
haven, Methill, Inverleven, Leven, Largo, Elie, St.
Monance, Pittenweem, Anstruther, and Crail ; and,
on its southern shore, in East Lothian, are Preston-
pans, Cockenzie, Port-Seaton, Aberlady, North
Berwick, and Dunbar.
The frith of Forth is of vast importance to navi-
gation and commerce. Above Queensferry it is, in
every part, one of the safest roadsteads in Britain.
Inverkeithing bay, Burntisland roads, Leith roads,
Elie roads, and various other localities, are places oi
safe anchorage. On the south side, the harbours
are Grangemouth, Granton, Leith, Fisherrow, and
Dunbar, — Granton being the best on the frith, and
Leith the most frequented, and the only one of much
commercial importance. "The frith of Forth,"
said Mr. James Anderson, civil engineer, in evidence
before the House of Commons in 1835, " is infinitely
the best inlet of the sea on the whole eastern coast
of Great Britain, where ships at all times of tide,
and almost under every circumstance of wind or
weather, are able to obtain shelter. But in the
whole of this frith, extending 60 miles inland, there
is not a sufficient harbour ; the want of which is
most severely felt along the whole range of coast
from the one extremity of the island to the other.
Ships, for instance, overtaken by gales from the
north, south, or east, can run with perfect safety
into this frith, when they dare not attempt the shore
in an}r other quarter; and consequently every faci-
lity which can be afforded to the navigation of this
important estuary, either by affording the necessary
accommodation to the shipping which frequents it,
or shelter to the North sea fleets which often con-
gregate in the frith, and to his Majesty's navy in
the event of war, becomes in reality an object of the
first national importance." On the north side, at
most of the multitudinous towns and villages which
sit upon the coast, are harbours superior, in general,
to those on the south side, but less frequented ; the
one at Burntisland being the best on the frith ex-
cept that of Granton. In early times the frith was
regarded as of dangerous navigation ; but, though
shoally in various localities, and heaved up by sand-
banks, it is now — with the appliances of light-
houses on Inchkeith and May island, and of accu-
rately drawn and minute charts — so signally safe as
to be hardly ever the scene of a shipwreck. The
amount of trade on its waters was materially in-
creased by the opening of the Forth and Clyde canal,
and has been not a little augmented by the intro-
duction and the progressively improving application
of the propelling power of steam.
On both shores, from Borrowstonness downwards,
are numerous industrial works; and along the coasts,
as well as inland near the banks of the river, are
vast repositories of coal, limestone, and ironstone;
and these, along with extensive and multitudinous
fisheries, attract a very numerous resort of vessels.
The frith abounds with white fish of all kinds, and
is ploughed by fleets of fishing-boats from New-
haven, Fisherrow, and other fishing-villages, pro
FORTH.
G85
FORTH.
curing supplies for the daily markets of Edinburgh,
and for the markets of other towns. At Stirling,
Alloa, Kincardine, and numerous other places, are
valuable fisheries of salmon. An annual shoal of
herrings generally visits the frith, and, in some
years, has yielded a prodigious produce; but its
fish are esteemed decidedly inferior in quality to
those of the western coasts of Scotland. At Cramond
and Inchmickery were formerly vast beds of oys-
ters ; but, from over-fishing, they have been much
exhausted; and they also yield a mollusc which, in
quality and size, is generally inferior to that obtained
in many places on the British coasts.
The Forth, it has been calculated, drains a super-
ficies of 574 square miles. Its entire length of course,
in a direct line, is upwards of 90 miles ; but, includ-
ing all the sinuosities for which it is so remarkable,
it cannot be estimated at less than 170 miles. " The
tides in the Forth," says Mr. Anderson, " run vari-
ously, both in respect of time and velocity. This
is caused partly by the formation of its shores, and
partly by the obstruction of islands and shallows,
and the meeting of currents. For instance, over
the sands of Leith there is an apparent receding
tide two hours before it is high water, because the
pressure of the current on the outside of the Black
rocks, which runs very strong, causes an eddy to
exist in the space between Newhaven pier and Leith
pier, and running eastwards at 1J knots an hour,
while the actual tide after high water runs at the
rate of 2 J miles an hour; therefore, the flowing tide,
which runs 1J knots an hour, appears to flow only
for four hours, while the ebbing tide continues for
eight hours. On the north shore, and in raid-chan-
nel, the tides run equal in respect of duration, and at
the rate of from 3 to 3j knots an hour. The cur-
rent or flowing tide strikes hard, and runs very close
upon the north shore from Kinghornness to the pro-
montory west of Aberdour at 3J knots an hour. It
again flows through the cut at Queensferry at the
rate of five knots an hour; about 6 miles above
Queensferry it flows at the rate of about 2 miles to
2^ miles an hour, and the ebb tide at the same rate.
The ebb tide again runs through the strait at
Queensferry at six knots an hour ; this violent cur-
rent causes the ebb tide again in the bay on the
north shore, which is found by the north headland
to flow to the west for two hours after the turn of
the tide, and at the rate of 1J knots an hour." The
frith of Forth is often mentioned in history in con-
nection with invasions, with the landing of troops
or warlike muniments from foreign friendly powers,
and with the voyages, on errands of state or of ma-
trimony, of the princes and princesses of Scotland.
Both the river and the frith also figure often and
variously in poetry, — sometimes as to their gen-
eral character, and very frequently as to particular
scenes or stretches. Several of the Scottish poets,
as well as multitudes of the common people, speak
of the Forth as though it was the princeliest of all
the waters of Scotland; and Drummoud of Haw-
thornden, in his panegyric on James VI.,' on occa-
sion of that monarch's visit to his ancient kingdom
after his accession to the throne of England, repre-
sents the Forth as saying,—
" And you, my nymphs, rise from your moist repair,
Strew all your springs and grots with lilies fair;
Some swiftest-footed, get them hence and pray
Our floods and lakes come keep this holida}'.
What e'er beneath Albania's hills do run,
Which see the rising or the setting sun,
Which drink stern Grampius' mists, or Ochiil's snows,
Stone-rolling Tay, Tyne tortoise-like that flows,
The pearly Don, the Dees, the fertile Spey,
Wild Nevar which doth see our longest day,
Ness smoking sulphur, Spean with mountains crown'd,
Strange Lomond ibr his floating isles renowned.
The Irish Ryan, Ken, the silver Ayr,
The snaky IJoon, the Ore with rushy Imir,
The chrystal-streaming Kith, loud-bellowing Clyde,
Tweed which no more our kingdoms shall divide,
Rank-swelling Annan, Lid with curled streams,
The Esks, the Solway where they lose their names;
To every one proclaim our joys and feasts,
Our triumphs; bid all come to be our guests ;
And as they meet in Neptune's azure hall,
Bid them bid sea-gods keep this festival."
FORTH AND CLYDE CANAL, an artificial
navigable communication between the frith of Forth
and the frith of Clyde. The veiy deep indentation
of the eastern and the western sides of Scotland by
these friths, at points not far from the same line of
latitude, and the strictly lowland character of the
territory between their terminations, combined with
the danger and the tediousness of the natural navi-
gation from side to side of the country along the
rough marine high-way round the Pentlaud frith,
suggested, at a very early period of modern civili-
zation, the desirableness of a Forth and Clyde canal.
In the reign of Charles II., a project was conceived
of cutting out so deep and broad a communication
as should admit the transit of even transports and
small ships of war; but it probably shared the
odium of the unpopular government which conceived
it, and would, if attempted to be put in execution,
have starved upon the wretched fragments of a pro-
digal and ill-directed public expenditure. In 1723,
a second and similar project led to the making of a
survey by Mr. Gordon, the well-known author of the
' Itinerarium Septentrionale ; ' but produced no fur-
ther result. In 1761, Lord Napier, somewhat vary-
ing the previous abortive projects, sustained, at his
private cost, a survey and financial estimate, by Mr.
Robert M'Kell, for a canal from the mouth of Carron
water, in Stirlingshire, to the mouth of Yoker burn,
5 miles below Glasgow ; and so deeply did the
result excite the interest of the Board of Trustees
for the Encouragement of Fisheries and Manufac-
tures of Scotland, that they obtained from the cele-
brated engineer, Mr. Smeaton, a new survey and
estimate, valuing the cost of the projected work at
£80,000. The mercantile community of Glasgow
and its neighbourhood, either faithless of practical
results, or indignant at what they conceived to be a
proposed uselessness and utter prodigality of expen-
diture, and, at the same time, tantalized by delays
in the commencement of a work of vast importance
to their interests, walked now rather abruptly into
the arena, resolved to cut a canal 4 feet deep at the cost
of £30,000, subscribed in the course of two days the
whole amount of the estimated cost, and authorized
a formal application to be made for parliamentary
sanction. Aristocracy, national pride, metropolitan
vanity, and perhaps a considerable degree of perspi-
cacious insight into the true interests of the country,
were shocked at what was thought the mean project
of a long ditch in lieu of an artificial river ; and
they poured down upon it the invasions of a paper
war, and enlisted their forces in parliament to give
it a vigorous opposition. The nobility and gentry
of the country, whether right or wrong in the
opinions they entertained, succeeded in getting an
ascendency so as to tie up the hands of the mer-
chants ; and, in 1767, they began a subscription in
London for cutting a canal seven feet deep at the
estimated expense of £150,000. The subscribers
obtained the sanction of parliament, and were incor-
porated by the name of ' The Companj' of Proprietors
of the Forth and Clyde Navigation;' their joint
stock to consist of 1,500 shares of £100, with liberty
to borrow £50,000.
In 1768 the work was begun at the east end,
under the direction of Mr. Smeaton. On the 10th ol
July, Sir Lawrence Dundas of Kerse performed the
FORTH.
686
FORTH.
ceremony of making the first incision of the ground.
In July 1775, the canal was fit for navigation to
Stockingfield, the point whence a side-branch was
designed to lead off to Glasgow; and, in 1777, the
side-branch was completed to Hamilton bill, still
nearer that city, and accommodated at its terminus
with a basin for the reception of vessels, and gra-
naries for the storage of goods. But difficulties had
occurred on which the inexperience of the age in
canal-making had not calculated, and had occasioned
so great a surplus expenditure above the estimated
cost, that the finances of the company seemed to be
menaced with confusion and ruin. AH the original
stock, all the amount of a subsequent loan, and all
the proceeds of toll-dues hitherto received, were ex-
pended ; and, at the same time, the annual revenue
did not much exceed £4,000. Shares now sold at
50 per cent, discount; prospects were gloomy and
disastrous; and doubts arose whether the canal
would ever be carried to the Clyde. But, in 1784,
Government, out of the rents of the forfeited estates
in Scotland, granted £50,000 towards the completion
of the work, reserving a power of drawing propor-
tional dividends with the proprietors, and allowing
them, on the other hand, to add their arrears of in-
terest to their principal sums. In July 1786, the
cutting of the canal was resumed under the superin-
tendence of the engineer, Mr. Robert Whitworth;
and in July 1790, it was completed from sea to sea.
The basin at Hamilton-hill having been found in-
competent, 8 acres of ground were now purchased
close on the vicinity of Glasgow, and disposed in
commodious basins and suitable building-grounds
for granaries and a village. This locality was called
Port-Donbas: which see. From Port- Dundas, the
canal — chiefly for the sake of obtaining supplies
from the largely superfluent waters of the sister-
work — was afterwards carried eastward to a junc-
tion with the Monkland canal. See Monkland
Canal. There has recently been a vast improve-
ment on the part of the canal which unites the Forth
and Clyde with the Monkland. This improvement
comprises a substantial wall and breast work suited
for the loading or the unloading of the largest canal-
going vessels, along the south side, almost continu-
ously from Port-Dundas to St. Rollox bridge. It
comprises also a considerable aggregate of the same
kind of accommodation on the north side ; likewise,
at intervals along the line, spacious docks for float-
timber; and all this part of the canal has been
greatly widened. The total cost of these works has
been upwards of £50,000.
Though the canal was planned to be no more
than seven feet deep, yet, by subsequent additions
to the height of its banks, it has become in effect,
ten feet. The length of the work, in all its parts,
is 38| miles ; of the navigation direct from the Forth
to the Clyde, 35 miles ; of the side-branch to
Port-Dundas 2f miles ; and of the continuation to
the Monkland canal, 1 mile. The number of locks
on the eastern side of the island is 20, and on the
western 19; the difference being occasioned by the
higher level of water in the Clyde at Bowling-bay,
than in Grange-burn or the Canon at Grangemouth.
Each lock is 74 feet long and 20 feet broad, and pro-
cures a rise of 8 feet. The greatest height of the
canal is 156 feet ; its medium breadth at the sur-
face, 56 feet; and its medium breadth at the bottom,
27 feet. Its locks admit vessels of 19 feet beam, 68
feet keel, and 8J feet draft of water. It is crossed
by 33 draw-bridges, and passes over 10 considerable
aqueducts, and upwards of 30 smaller ones or tun-
nels. The greatest aqueduct is a very magnificent
one across the Kelvin at Maryhill, begun in June
1787, and finished in April 1791. It consists of four
grand arches, is 83 feet high, runs across a dell or
valley 400 feet wide, and was completed at a cost
of £8,500. The canal has 6 reservoirs, cover-
ing about 700 acres, and containing upwards of
12,000 lockfuls of water.
The navigation into the canal from the Forth runs
about a mile up the river Carron, between two em-
bankments, from low water-mark in the frith to the
first lock at Grangemouth ; and here are extensive
harbour accommodations, which, together with the
embankments, have been completed within the last
ten years, at the cost of about £170,000. See Granbe-
mouth. The canal, lifted up from the tide at Grange-
mouth, is carried ■ 2J miles south-westward on a
straight line to Grahamston. Here, and for some
way previous, its banks are the scene of bustling
enterprise and industry; and at Brainsford, on the
opposite bank from Grahamston, it opens laterally
into a basin for the accommodation of the extensive
neighbouring Carron ironworks. Thence it pro-
ceeds, still in a south-westerly direction, to Camelon,
where it is crossed by the Edinburgh and Glasgow
road by way of Falkirk, and begins to make a bend
of | of a mile toward a westerly direction at Lock
16. Up to this point — as the name of the locality
implies — it had been passing locks at frequent in-
tervals, and climbing the face of an inclined plane ;
and now it has attained an elevation of 128 feet
above the level of tide- mark at Grangemouth. Over
the latter part, or, in fact, the whole of its progress
hither, it commands views of the carses, water--scenes,
and magnificent northern back-grounds of the Forth,
which are quite exultant in beauty. At Lock 16, the
canal sends off on its east side the Union canal navi-
gation to Edinburgh. See Union Canal. For 2J
miles it proceeds in nearly a straight line due west;
and for 2§ miles farther, it runs up south-westward
along the right bank of Bonny water to Castlecary.
About a mile from Lock 16 it passes over the Scot-
tish Central railway; and at Castlecary it is crossed
by the great northern road from Glasgow. At
Windford lock, near Castlecary, it attains its highest
elevation; and this it continues to preserve away
past Port-Dundas, on the one hand, to the junction
of the Monkland canal, and onward, on the other,
till near the aqueduct across Kelvin water. A
quarter of a mile beyond Castlecary it is carried over
the principal head-stream of Bonny water, and
takes leave of Stirlingshire which it had hitherto
traversed, and enters Dumbartonshire; yet, for 8
miles farther, it never recedes more than half-a-mile
from the flanking continuation of Stirlingshire,
and over one-half or more of that distance does
not recede a furlong, and even when considerably
past Kelvin aqueduct, and within 6 miles of Bowl-
ing-bay, has not at any point receded more than 1J
mile. For 9§ miles of its line in Dumbartonshire,
it proceeds, with few and unimportant deviations,
from a direct course south-westward along the
borders of the parishes of Cumbernauld and Kirk-
intilloch, coming in upon the tract of the incipient
Kelvin, following that stream along its left bank,
passing the village of Kilsyth f of a mile to the
north, and making a bend and passing along an
aqueduct over a considerable tributary of the Kelvin
just before terminating the distance at the town of
Kirkintilloch. The canal now passes that town
immediately to the north, but lying in a hollow,
and nearly all invisible; and half-a-mile thence—
in consequence of Dumbartonshire being dissevered
by an intersecting tongue of Lanarkshire — it enters
the latter county. For lj mile it proceeds west-
ward, and then resumes its south-westward direc-
tion, and passing Cadder kirk, attains, in 4 miles, the
point whence its side-branch goes off to Port-Dundas.
FORTH.
fi.37
FORTH.
Over nearly the whole distance from Lock 16, the
level or course of the canal is overlooked or flanked
with confined views. In some places it carries the
eye a short way over cheerless morass and moorland ;
in others it discloses limited but not uninteresting
hill -scenery on the north; and in a few it ploughs
its way between steep and wooded, though not high,
banks, which all but cheat a stranger into the con-
viction that he is sailing along a natural river. The
side-branch to Port-Dundas somewhat abounds in
sinuosities, and has several rapid and inconvenient
turns, but on the whole has a direction due south-
east ; and at last coming along the face of a soft
hill, and making two rapid bends respectively as it
approaches and as it enters the basin, displays a
little forest of masts high above the general level of
Glasgow, in a position commanding nearly as good
a view of the city of spires and tall chimney-stalks,
regular streets and lumpish edifices, as clouds of
smoke and great unfavourableness of site for scenic
effect will permit. From the point whence the
side-branch diverges, the canal adopts a considera-
ble change of course, and proceeds for 1 \ mile in a
direction north of west, and with a pleasing land-
scape on its south side to Maryhill. Here there is a
crowding of interesting objects into a limited space,
and a successful struggle of art to combine with na-
ture in producing picturesque and almost romantic
effects. The canal is carried along a short but high
aqueduct across the Garscube turnpike from Glas-
gow,— immediately beyond, a neat village, with its
quoad sacra parish-church, stretches away on high
ground ; in the distance northward, knolls and
wooded eminences, and the grounds of Killermont
undulate downward to the narrow and curving vale
of the Kelvin ; in view of the landscape, and close
on the street-line of the village, the canal, in a bend-
ing course, walks down the brow of a descent by a
succession of looks which somewhat resemble the
section of a prodigious stair ; and, a few yards on-
ward, in a deep seclusion, stretches the superb
aqueduct across the Kelvin, overlooking a thick-
ly-wooded and soft-featured but romantic gorge up-
wards of 80 feet in depth, steep in its acclivities,
and almost noiselessly traversed by the limpid river.
At this point, the canal re-enters Dumbartonshire
at the south-east comer of its parish of East Kilpa-
trick ; and thence it proceeds 2§ miles north-west-
ward, J of a mile south-westward, and 1 J mile west-
ward to a point a little within the limits of West
Kilpatrick. Here it is joined by a brief junction
canal, which was formed in 1839, for the benefit of
Paisley, to the Clyde at the mouth of the Cart,—
but formed by a separate company now extinct; and
hence onward, for 3f miles, it follows the course of
the Clyde in an undeviating direction to the north
of west; and then, amid beautiful scenery, is let
down into the Clyde at Bowling-bay, where a tidal
harbour, with convenient wharves, was recently
constructed at a cost of £35.000.
"Through Carron's channel, now with Kelvin joined,
The wondering barks a ready passage find :
The ships, on swelling billows wont to rise,
On solid mountains climb to scale the skies ;
Old ocean sees the fleets forsake his floods,
Sail the firm land, the mountains and the woods;
And safely thus conveyed, they dread no more
Rough northern seas which round the Orkneys roar.
Not thus the wave of Forth was joined to Clyde,
When Rome's broad rampart stretched from tide to tide,
With bulwarks strong, with towers sublimely crowned,
While winding tubes conveyed each martial sound.
To guard the legions from their painted foes,
By vast unwearied toil the rampire rose;
When, fierce in arms, the Scot, by Carron's shore,
Resigned, for war, the chace and mountain boar
As the chafed lion, on his homeward way,
Returns for vengeance, and forgets the prey."
The original cost of the canal, including all ex-
penditure up to the January succeeding the date ol
its completion was £330,000. The tonnage dues
imposed were, from sea to sea, 5s. lOd. ; from
Grangemouth to Port-Dundas, 3s. lOd. ; from Bowl-
ing-bay to Port-Dundas, 2s. ; and over partial dis-
tances, except in favour of lime and some other car-
goes, 3d. per mile. When the whole work got its
appliances into operation, the gloom which formerly
darkened its prospects began speedily to disappear;
and in 1800 the first dividend was declared. While
the work was in progress, two general meetings,
one at London, and one at Edinburgh, governed its
affairs; that at London appointing annually the
committee of management. Collisions of opinion
and conflicting decisions having resulted, a new
constitution was sanctioned by act of parliament in
1787, investing the direction in a governor and
council at London, and a committee of management
in Glasgow ; both to be annually elected by a gen-
eral meeting held in London. This also was found in-
convenient; and since 1852, the management has been
wholly concentrated in Glasgow. Though experienc-
ing some fluctuations, the affairs have, on the whole,
steadily prospered ; and, notwithstanding a great
reduction in the tonnage-dues, making the amount
not more than ljd. a ton per mile, they continue to
be remunerating, and to embrace a steadily extend-
ing traffic. The revenue for 1839 rose to the com
paratively great height of £95,475. In 1846 the
Forth and Clyde canal was incorporated with the
Monkland canal ; and four years later, the revenue
of the two canals was £115,621, and the total cost
of them from the commencement was £1,090,380.
So early as November, 1789, the Forth and Clyde
canal was the proud scene of experiment for the
first steam-boat which was ever constructed above
the size of a model ; and some years later, it was
the arena of experiments in steam-boat navigation,
from which Fulton learned the lesson which he af-
terwards successfully practised in America. At
various subsequent dates, particularly about 1828,
strenuous exertions were made to adapt propulsion
by steam to the fragile structure and precarious em-
bankments of the canal ; but all were attended by
some degree of failure ; and, even had they been
successful, they would have achieved a rate of speed
far below what the flighty and swift-winged spirit
of the age has come to demand. A totally new set of
experiments, tending to a great revolution in canal
navigation, was commenced some years later, and,
in September, 1839, were brought to a favourable
termination. A light railway having been formed
alongside of the towing-path of a part of the canal,
near Lock 16, a locomotive engine of moderate
power was set on it, and applied, as a substitute
for horses, in towing, at various rates of speed, ves-
sels of all the different classes which then frequent-
ed the canal. By experiments conducted with scru-
pulous accuracy, and often repeated, it was ascer-
tained that, even with the imperfect preparations
which had been made, the passage-boats might,
without injury to the banks, be towed at rates vary-
ing from 19-1 to 19-25 miles per hour, and that
heavy sea-going vessels might, with great ease, be
conveyed at the utmost speed consistent with the
conservation of the slopes. On the 11th Septem-
ber, 1839, grand final experiments were made un-
der the eye of the governor, the manager and part
of the committee of the canal company, and several
professional and scientific gentlemen. The loco-
motive engine was attached successively to pas-
senger-boats, lightly and heavily laden, — to sloops,
single and in pairs, — and to a string of nine mis-
cellaneous sailing-vessels. The passenger- boats al-
FOETH
688
FORTINGAL.
most instantly shot along at the rate of 16 and 17
miles per hour, and were maintained at that velocity
with a very small expenditure of steam. The waves
which they produced — very unlike what had heen
produced by other modes or applications of power, or
what theory and mistaken investigation had pre-
dicted— did not undulate, or rash along the banks,
but proceeded direct to the shore, quite or nearly at
right angles with the sides of the boats, and so far
from being increased in volume proportionately to
the increase of velocity, were at all times smaller
than those which the boats plough up when they are
drawn by horses. The sloops, dragged singly, and
two on a line, varied from 70 to 90 tons, and were so
laden as -o have 8 feet draught of water ; and they
were earned along at the maximum allowed velocity
of 3 J miles per hour ; and but for prudential reasons
imposing restrictions, they could easily have been
made to feel a much higher speed. The chain of 9
vessels consisted of 7 sea-going schooners and sloops,
and 2 heavy-laden scows ; and they were borne
steadily along at the rate of 2J miles per hour.
While the expense of towing them separately from
the sea-lock to Port-Dundas, would be about £27,
that of dragging them with the locomotive engine,
exclusive of allowance for the use of the railway,
would not exceed 25 shillings. In every case, the
results of the experiments seemed perfectly satis-
factory. They left no doubt that velocities suitable
to all vessels were attainable, — that these might
range from 2£ to 20 miles per hour, — and that,
after some experience, the velocity might probably
reach 25 or even 30 miles per hour. The experiment,
however, was very costly ; and had the steam system
been applied to the whole canal, it would have en-
tailed vast expense, without any adequate advan-
tage. That system, therefore, was not adopted.
FOETH AND CLYDE RAILWAY, a railway
opened on the 20th May, 1856, from a junction with
the Scottish Central railway at Stirling to a junction
with the Dumbartonshire railway near Balloch. It
connects the east and the west coasts of Scotland,
in the basins of the Forth and the Clyde, by the
shortest and most direct route; and at the same time
it opened up, for ready communication with great
markets, a considerable agricultural district whicli
had hitherto been very secluded. The scheme for
it was originally organized in 1845, and, after being
carried some way through parliament, was relin-
quished ; but was eventually resumed by the same
promoters as at first, and carried to a consum-
mation on the 4th of August, 1853 The first sod
for the railway was cut on the 12th of January,
1854. The parliamentary estimate for it was
£150,000.
FOETH IEON-WOBKS, a large recently erected
establishment, on the western verge of the parish of
Carnock and of Fifeshire, 4 miles west of Dunferm-
line. The ironstone wrought in it is comparatively
rich. A large school-house was built by the com-
pany, for the education of the children of the work-
people, with infant and sewing departments.
FOETHAE. See Fjfeshire.
FOETHEIF. See Fifeshire.
FOETHY WATEE, a rivulet of Kincardine-
shire. It rises on the western border of the parish
of Dunnottar, runs across a wing of Glenbervie, and
traces the boundary between Arbuthnot on its left
bank and Glenbervie on its right bank, to a conflu-
ence with Bervie Water about a mile south of
DnunlitMe.
FOETINGAL, a very large and important parish,
containing the post-office stations of Fortingal and
Rannoch, and occupying the chief part of the north-
western division of Perthshire. Quoad sacra, the
parish is of moderate dimensions; but quoad civilia,
it measures, in extreme length, about 40 miles, — in
extreme breadth, upwards of 30 miles, — in circum
ferenee, along the sinuosities of its boundary-line,
probably 130 miles or upwards, — and in superficial
area, nearly 450,000 imperial acres. It is bounded
on the north by the district of Badenoch in Inver-
ness-shire ; on the north-east by the parish of Blair-
Athole ; on the east by the parish of Dull ; on the
south by the parishes of Kenmore and Killin, and a
detached portion of the parish of Weem; and on
the west by the parishes of Glenorchy and Appin in
Argyleshire, and the district of Lochaber in Inver
ness-shire. The parish is in every respect com
pact, with two remarkable exceptions ; it embosoms,
nearly in its centre, a detached part of Logierait,
4J miles by 4 ; and it, at the same time, has a de-
tached part of its own, called Bolfracks, 4J miles by
2, lying 3£ miles east of the south-eastern extremity
of the main body. The whole parish lies among
the Grampians, and is exceedingly mountainous;
and, in general, broadly marked with the character-
istic features of the Highlands, — savage grandeur
relieved by varying scenes of romance and beauty,
— towering elevations cleft into ridges by torrents
and ravines, — bleak alpine wastes of heath alter-
nated with sylvan braes and far-stretching lakes, —
scenes now sublime and now subsiding into softness,
enlivened by bounding streams and roaring cata-
racts. The extensive district, however, which con-
stitutes the main body of the parish, is naturally
and comprehensively divided into three portions,
Eannoch, Glenlyon, and Fortingal proper. Ean-
noch and Glenlyon will be described in separate
articles ; and need not be further noticed here than
to say, that the former constitutes the northern part
of the parish, and the latter, jointly with Fortingal
proper, a considerable portion of the southern part.
But these districts are separated or surrounded by
very broad or high mountain-belts. Both on the
north and on the south large portions of the parish,
from the boundaries inwards, are entirely mountain-
ous. Another belt, about 7 miles broad, stretches
along the whole length of the parish from east to
west, separating it into two great divisions, with
Eannoch on the north, and Glenlyon and Fortingal
on the south, and lifting many of its summits 3,000
feet or upwards above the level of the sea. Minor
ridges, isolated mountains, and divergent spurs
also lift their heads almost everywhere in other
localities, rendering the entire parish eminently
Highland. The most remarkable of the isolated
heights is Schichallion, on the southern boundary:
which see.
The parish has, at its centre, along the base of
the intersecting broad belt of mountains, one mag-
nificent lake, 12 miles long, and upwards of 1 mile
in average breadth, overlooked by grand and mag-
nificent scenery. See Loch Eannoch. It has
also, at its northern limit, 7 miles of a lake which
stretches away into Inverness-shire, and is in all 16
miles long, the sceneiy of which has gems of
beauty, but is, in general, savage and wild. See
Loch Ericht. It possesses parts likewise of a
beautiful and romantic lake, 3 miles in length,
on the south-west, — an islet-studded and sylvan
mountain-lake, 6 miles long, on the west, — and a
lake, 4 miles long and half-a-mile broad, on the
north-east. See Loch Lyon, Loch Lydoch, and
Loch Garry. There are also in the parish numer-
ous smaller lakes, or lochlets, all of which, with one
exception, as well as the larger lakes, are well-
stored with fish. In Loch Eannoch trouts are
caught from 1 lb. to 24 lb. in weight. Nor is the
district less rich in rivers, brooks, and rills. One
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FORTINGAL.
689
FORTINGAL.
roai'ing and impetuous stream, bounding along in
rapids and cataracts, and sometimes sending its
hoary voice for several miles among the mountains,
runs eastward from Loch Lydoch to Loch Eannoeh.
See the Gauer. Another river, at first smooth and
gentle, hut afterwards impetuous, runs from Loeh
Rannoch to the eastern boundary. See the Tum-
met,. These streams, with the lakes whence they
issue, form a belt of waters, along the base of the
central belt of mountains, from end to end of the
parish. Another river, sluggish and mustering for
the onset for a short distance, but afterwards furi-
ous and wild in its career, comes down southward
from Loch Erich t, to near the western extremity of
Loch Rannoch. See the Ericht. Another river of
great variety of aspect, but generally overlooked by
scenes of romance or picturesqueness or beauty,
issues from Looli Lyon, and thence intersects the
parish, through Glenlyon and Fortingal proper, on
the eastern boundary. See the Lyon. Numerous
other streams, for the most part of inconsiderable
length of course, and possessing the character of
mountain-torrents, run along ravines, or leap over
precipitous rocks, or spread out in little dells and
mimic glens, gay in the adornings of Highland
loveliness, and pour their waters into either the
lakes or the rivers. Among the most noticeable
are the Mirran, Auld Madrumbeagh, and the
Moulin, tributaries of the Lyon and Black water;
Auld Bagh, Auld Killyhounan, and the Sasscn,
tributaries of the central stripe of waters.
Fortingal proper occupies the lower part of the
course of the Lyon. It is a sublimely yet softly
picturesque vale, about 6 miles in length, and up-
wards of half-a-mile in breadth, adorned with groves
and gentlemen's seats, with mountains coming
slowly down upon its gentle beauties, yet sending
away their summits to such a height, and environ-
ing it in such alpine phalanx that, gazing round
from its centre, a stranger might conclude ingress
or egress to be impracticable. The village or kirk-
town of Fortingal — a few huts clustered around the
parish-church — presents a fine foil to the numerous
beauties of the vale. The celebrated yew-tree in
the churchyard, described by Pennant, and noticed
by various tourists and topographists, as probably
the largest in the kingdom, still lifts its venerable
branches to the breeze; but though somewhat in-
creased in its enormous circumference — so often
recorded — of 52 feet, has lost much of its stateli-
ness, and now appears as two distinct trees. " At
the commencement of my incumbency, 32 years
ago," says the Rev. Robert Macdonald, the minister
of the parish, in his report in the New Statistical
Account, " there lived in the village of Kirkton, a
man of the name of Donald Robertson, then up-
wards of 80 years of age, who declared that when a
boy going to school, he could hardly enter between
the two parts; now a eoach-and-four might pass
between them." This tree is probably the only
remnant of those little groves of yew-trees which
a very ancient act of parliament ordered to be
planted in the burying- grounds of the kingdom, to
furnish material for bows.
Caverns and deep recesses beneath the overhang-
ing cliffs or between the projecting shelves of rocks,
are numerous, and, in some instances, remarkable ;
and are, for the most part, associated either with
tales of ancient feuds and warfare, or with the gross
legends of credulity and superstition. The Gram-
pian bed of limestone, ranging from Dumbarton-
shire to Aberdeenshire, passes along the east end of
the parish. Veins of marble of various hues, and
variously clouded, occur in several localities. A
very rich vein of lead ore in Glenlyon was wrought
T.
for several years toward the close of last century ;
but, owing to some unexplained reason, it, did
not compensate the working, and was abandoned.
Brilliant pebbles, spars, and rock-crystals, are oc-
casionally found among the mountains. In the
very small area of the parish which is arable — yet
small only as compared with the vast aggregate of
impracticable surface — agricultural improvement
has been singularly rapid, and achieved surprising
results. Neat, snug farm - steads, well - enclosed
fields, and the luxuriant results of skilful and assi-
duous husbandry, cheer and surprise the Lowland
tourist who penetrates among the Highland wastes
and wilds. The soil, in the level stripes of the val-
leys, is, in general, gravelly and dry ; and up the
sides, though seldom toward the summits, of the
mountains, it affords excellent pasturage for black
cattle and sheep. A considerable forest of native
fir, and an extensive one of birch, range along the
district of Rannoch, and appear to be remnants of
that great Caledonian forest which anciently covered
northern Perthshire and the county of Inverness,
over mountain, glen, and morass, to the extent of
more than 2,000 square miles. Plantations of the
various sorts of hardwood, and of spruce and larch,
though not aggregately extensive, are so disposed
through the parish as to impart a feature to very
many of its landscapes.
At the west end of the vale of Fortingal are re-
mains of what has been currently caUed a Roman
camp. Far inland though the position be, and
lying beyond mountain-barriers, narrow defiles, and
very difficult passes, several writers have thought
that Agricola penetrated hither, and fought here a
battle with the Caledonians. Some persons trace
to this epoch the etymology of the name Fortingal,
and suppose that it was originally Feart-nan- Gcal,
'the stronghold of the Gael' or Caledonian ; "while
others connect that etymology in a general way
with the fortification, and suppose the name to have
originally been Feart-ningal, ' the Works or ex-
ploits of strangers.' The spot where Agricola's
tent is supposed to have stood is surrounded by a
deep fosse. The rampart of the camp is, in many
places, broken down and the ditch filled up by the
plough ; but the pretorium is still complete ; and
the camp comprehends an area of about 80 acres.
A search, upwards of half a century ago, for anti-
quities on the spot, produced only three urns.
Roman coins, however, have been found in various
adjacent localities. Numerous circular forts appear
in the parish from 30 to 50 feet in diameter, built of
vast blocks of stone which one cannot easily con-
ceive to have been moved without machines, but
of inconsiderable height of wall ; and as they are in
many instances within view of one another, they
may probably have been part of a chain of watch
towers wdiich extended from Dunkeld through
Fortingal into Argyleshire. Two of the forts are
much more extensive than the others, and had out-
works. At the east end of the parish are vestiges
of a castle, impregnable before the invention of
gunpowder, built on a precipitous rocky promon-
tory cut off by converging deep chasms with brawl-
ing brooks, and anciently defended on the accessi-
ble side by a ditch and drawbridge. This castle
was the residence of " the fierce wolfe," the brother
of the Earl of Buchan, and the ancestor of very
many of the Stewarts of Athole. At the foot of
Glenlyon, on a high declivitous bank, and anciently
defended by a drawbridge, are the ruins of a castle,
the last occupant of which was Duncan Campbell
of Glenlyon, usually called the hospitable Red
Duncan.
Fortingal was ancientlv the scene of many feuds,
2 x
FORTINGAL.
690
FORTROSE.
and even of some considerable onslaughts and bat-
tles. During the wars of the succession, a party of
Edward of England's followers came down to the
district along an opening, which still bears the
name of Glen Sassen, "the Englishman's glen;"
and, according to tradition, were confronted by a
force led on by Robert Bruce in person. The
ground where the collision of the antagonist little
armies took place is called Innerchadden, ' the point
where the battle began,' and the spot where Robert
achieved victory is called Dalchoisnie, ' the field of
victory.' On another occasion, as tradition reports,
Robert was less successful ; and having sustained
defeat near the boundary with Argyleshire, he con-
cealed himself in a romantic spot — still called the
King's house — in a wood two miles east of the field
of his former and victorious contest. His retreat
being near the Tummel, there was but one ford by
which it could be reached, and this still bears the
name of the King's ford ; while an eminence over-
looking his hiding-place continues to be called the
King's watch-tower. During, or soon after, the
reign of Robert, M'Dougal of Lorn and his follow-
ers penetrated as far as the Erochd, in subordina-
tion, it is said, to the operations of the English.
But confronted by Donnacha or Duncan Reauar,
the ancestor of the Robertsons of Strowan, they
suffered defeat and carnage, and the chief of Lorn
himself was captured, and for a time confined on
the artificial islet of Loch Rannoch. In the loth
century, a clan called Clan Eoin Bhuidhe, ' the de-
scendants of John of the yellow hair,' who, at that
period, possessed the upper part of Rannoch, and
who by some act of rapine had incurred the wrath
of the Stewarts of Appin, were sought out, on their
own territory, by the chief of Appin and his clan,
and drawing up in battle array to confront the in-
vaders near the side of the river Gauer, were nearly
all hewn down on the spot ; while a few fugitives
with difficulty escaped by swimming the river, and
fled in dispersion to their districts. A little rill,
occasionally called to the present day ' the rill of
blood,' commemorates the fearful slaughter, and in-
dicates the scene. A feud of several centuries in
duration between the clan Cameron and the Macin-
toshes occasioned Fortingal to become repeatedly
the arena of skirmishes and vengeful conflicts.
Fortingal has, in a very striking degree, under-
gone the ameliorating changes which have been
generally experienced in the Highlands. Up to
the year 1745, it was in an utterly barbarous condi-
tion, under no legal restraint, and signalized, even
among the lawless regions around it, for its foul
dishonesty and its deeds of violence. One of the
chief proprietors was then the Rob Roy of his day,
but without the amenities of Rob's character ;
and while his property was a nest of thieves, he
laid the whole country, from Stirling on the one
hand and Cupar Angus on the other, under contri-
bution for " black mail." Fortingal, in fact, was
the centre of this sort of traffic. "In the months
of September and October," says the reporter in the
Old Statistical Account, " they gathered to the
number of about 300, built temporary huts, drank
whisky all the time, settled accounts for stolen cat-
tle, and received balances. Every man then bore
arms. It would have required a regiment to have
brought a thief from the country. But government
having sent a party of soldiers to reside among
them, and a thief having been hung at their doors,
they soon felt the necessity of reformation, and they
are now as honest, and as strict a set of people in
these matters, as any in the kingdom. In the year
1754, the country was almost impassable. There
were no roads nor bridges. Now, by the statute-
labour, we have got excellent roads and 12 bridges.
In a few j'ears we shall have other two, which is
all that could be desired. The people contribute
cheerfully and liberally to build them, and this pre-
serves many lives. At the above period, the bulk
of the tenants in Rannoch had no such thing as
beds. They lay on the ground, with a little heather
or fern under them ; one single blanket was all their
bed-clothes, excepting their body-clothes. Now
they have standing-up beds, and abundance of
blankets. At that time the houses in Rannoch
were huts of, what they called, ' Stake and Rise.'
One could not enter but on all fours; and after en-
tering, it was impossible to stand upright. Now
there are comfortable houses built of stone. Then
the people were miserably dirty, and foul-skinned.
Now they are cleanly, and are clothed as well as
their circumstances will admit of. The rents of the
parish, at that period, were not much above £1 ,500,
and the people were starving. Now they pay
£4,660 per annum, and upwards, and the people
have fulness of bread." Nor are the changes much
less striking which have taken place since the year
1794, when this report was written. The improve-
ments in agriculture, in particular, and in farm-
buildings, enclosures, social usages, and intellectual
condition, have been remarkably great. The prin-
cipal landowners are the Marquis of Breadalbane,
Sir Robert Menzies, Bart., of Foss-house and Ran-
noch-lodge, John Menzies, Esq. of Chesthill, F. G.
Campbell, Esq. of Troup and Glenlyon, and seven
others. Three fairs are held annually at the ham-
let of Fortingal ; one chiefly for seeds, about the
end of April ; one for lambs, in August; and one of
several days, for sheep, goats, and cattle, in the be-
ginning of December. Three fairs are held also at
Kinloch-Rannoch ; one in April, and one in Octo-
ber, for cattle; and one in August for lambs. A
fair is held likewise at Inverwick in Glenlyon.
Assessed property in 1866, £17.651 14s. Id. Popu-
lation in 1831, 3,067 ; in 1861, 2,181. Houses, 456.
This parish is in the presbytery of Weem, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patrons, the Duke of
A thole and Sir R. Menzies. Stipend, £255 8s.; glebe,
£10. The parish quoad civilia consists of the united
parishes of Fortingal and Killaehonan. But two
large districts were in 1845 erected into quoad
sacra parishes. See Gi.eklyoh and Rankoch.
The quoad sacra parish of Fortingal is only about
8 miles long, and about 8 broad; and consists
of the vale of Fortingal, a small part of Glen-
lyon, and the detached district of Bolfracks. The
parish church is of unknown date, but was re-
paired in 1851. Sittings, 376. Thereis a Free
church in Glenlyon; and the sum raised in connex-
ion with it in 1865 was £143 12s. 8d. There are
in the quoad civilia parish one parochial school,
two Assembly's schools, two Society's schools, and
seven other schools.
FORT MATILDA, a battery, with fortified en-
closure, on the shore at the point in Greenock par-
ish, midway between Greenock and Gourock. It
commands the curve of the Clyde immediately be-
low the Greenock roadsteads.
FORTNIGHTY. See Ardclach.
FORTROSE, a royal burgh and post-town, in the
parish of Eosemarkie, Ross-shire. It stands 8J miles
south of Invergordon ferry, 10J south-south-west of
Cromarty, and 10£ north-north-east of Inverness.
Its site is at the eastern extremity of the Black Isle
road, on the north side of the Moray frith, and near-
ly opposite Fort-George, from which it is distant
2i miles. It is composed of two towns, Eose-
markie and Chanonry, which are about half-a-mile
distant from each other, but have been politically
FORTROSE.
(-.01
FORTROSE.
united in one burgh. The former of these is of
considerable antiquity, having been erected into a
royal burgh by Alexander II. Chanonry is so
called from its having been the canonry of Ross,
where the bishop had his residence. It is finely
situated on an elevated plain commanding an ex-
tensive prospect of the Moray frith ; and a tongue
of land, called Chanonry-ness or Fortrose point,
runs out between it and Rosemarkie into the frith.
The two towns were united by a charter granted
by James II. in 114-1, under the common name of
Fortress — that is, ' the Fort of the Peninsula,' —
now softened into Fortrose ; and that charter was
ratified by another by James VI. in 1592, and con-
firmed, with greater immunities, by the same
monarch in 1612. These charters all bear, that
the burgh is to be "entitled to the privileges, liber-
ties, and immunities heretofore granted to the town
of Inverness." Fortrose was, at that time, spoken
of as a town flourishing in the arts and sciences,
the seat of divinity, law, and physic, in this corner
of the kingdom. And for generations previously,
as well as for some time after, under the fostering
influence of the bishops of Ross, till their palace
was destroyed and their cathedral dilapidated by
Oliver Cromwell, it enjoyed a large amount of
general prosperity. " The situation of the town,"
remark the Messrs. Anderson, " is romantic and
sunny, and the grounds about it, which have long
been under cultivation, are rich and in high order;
and when the cathedral green was surrounded by
large old trees, before Cromwell's axe was laid to
their roots, and the houses of the town were remov-
ed to a distance from the cathedral — save that the
canons and presbyters of the see had each, near it,
his manse, with gardens and court-yards, entered
by Gothic arched gateways — the whole place must
have had a very beautiful and imposing appearance,
more like an English ecclesiastical town than a
Scotch one."
Two small parts of the cathedral are still stand-
ing. Cromwell sent the stones of the rest of it, to-
gether with those of the bishop's palace, by sea
to Inverness, for the erection of a fort there, called
Cromwell's fort, which now no longer exists.
" The cathedral," says Mr. Neale, in his Ecclesio-
logical Notes of 1848, " formerly consisted of choir
and nave, with aisles to each, eastern lady chapel,
western tower, and chapter-house at the north-east
end. What remains consists merely of the south
aisle to chancel and nave, and the detached chap-
ter-house. The style is the purest and most elabor-
ate middle pointed; the material, red sandstone,
gave depth and freedom to the chisel ; and the
whole church, though probably not 120 feet long
from east to west, must have been an architectural
gem of the very first description. The exquisite
beauty of the mouldings, after so many years of ex-
posing to the air, is wonderful, and shows that, in
whatever other respect these remote parts of Scot-
land were barbarous, in ecelesiology, at least, they
were on a par with any other branch of the me-
diaeval church. The east window, fragments of the
tracery of which hang from the archivolt, must
have been magnificent, and consisted of five lights ;
it is wide in proportion to its height, and must have
afforded great scope for throwing up the altar be-
neath. On the outside, in the gable, there are two
lancets, the lower one much longer than the other.
The whole effect is extremely satisfactory. I know
not, indeed, where one could look for a better model
for a small collegiate church, and such as might
suit the needs of our communion at this moment.
There are two windows on the south side, of the
same elaborate and beautiful description, hut con-
sisting of four lights. The piscina remains, and
the mouldings are truly the work of a master. The
south aisle was separated from the chancel by two
middle pointed arches, now walled up, but not so
much injured as to destroy their extreme loveliness.
In the first of these arches is a canopied tomb for
the foundress, a Countess of Ross, the date of which
is probably 1330. Very possibly her lord might be
interred in a similar position in the north side of
the choir. This must have been one of the most
beautiful monuments I ever saw. Between the foot
and the easternmost pier, a credence is inserted,
sloping up with a stone lean-to against the passage
wall. In the second arch is a poor third pointed
high tomb and canopy, with the effigy of a bishop,
by tradition, the second bishop of the see; a thing
manifestly impossible, unless the monument were
erected long after the decease of the person comme-
morated. The chancel arch is modern. The nave
consists of four bays, and much resembles the
chancel in its details; the fourth is, however,
blocked off for the buiying-place of the Mackenzies
of Seaforth. In the second arch is another third-
pointed monument. On the south side the first
window is injured ; the second resembles those in
the chancel arch ; the third is high up and mutilat-
ed ; the fourth is a plain lancet. The west front is
remarkably simple, and contains nothing but a
small two-light middle pointed window, without
foliation. The rood turret still exists, and is a very
elegant, though somewhat singular composition.
It stands at the junction of the south aisle of nave
and chancel, and acts as a buttress. Square at the
base, it is bevelled into a semi-hexagonal super-
structure, and has elegant two light windows on
alternate sides. The top is modern. The chapter-
house, as at Glasgow, consisted of two stages, a
crypt and the chapter-house properly speaking.
The crypt still remains, and is used as a coal-hole ;
the upper part, which has been rebuilt, is now a
school and court-room." In 1854 and 1855 the
Commissioners of Woods and Forests expended a
considerable sum in restoring and strengthening
the whole of the decayed fabric.
The parish church and the manse are beautiful
buildings, in beautiful situations, in the neighbour-
hood of Rosemarkie. A chapel of ease, called the
church of Fortrose, stands at Chanonry; and is in
the presentation of the male communicants. There
are likewise a Free church and an Episcopalian
chapel, both in the Gothic style, but tasteless and
unsymmetrical. There is also a Baptist place of
worship. The Fortrose academy is an institution
for a good English education, mathematics, and
languages, conducted by a rector and two other
teachers; and there are a parochial school, a Free
church school, and a young ladies' seminary. The
burgh has a good inn, called the Royal hotel, and
good private lodgings for sea-bathers. The town-
council comprises a provost, three bailies, a trea-
surer, a dean of guild, and eight councillors. The
real property of the burgh, exclusive of charity
funds, amounted in 1864 to £5,385 Os. Od. The
corporation revenue in 1860, was about £175.
Fortrose unites with Inverness, Forres, and Nairn
in sending a member to parliament. Its constitu-
ency in 1861 was 64. A sheriff's small-debt court
is held quarterly; and justice of peace small-debt
courts are held at stated periods. A weekly market
is held on Friday; and fairs are held on the first
Wednesday of April, the third Wednesday of June,
and the first Wednesday of November. There is
a good harbour at Fortrose, which was formed by
the parliamentary commissioners on the Highland
roads in 1817, at an expense of about £4,000. The
FOKVIE.
692
FOSSAWAY.
inside of the harbour is about 30 yards square, and
three sides of it form an extensive wharf. Spring-
tides rise 14 feet within it. There is a regular ferry
to Fort-George from Chanonry-ness ; but it is not
much frequented. It is usually known as Ardersier
ferry; taking its name from the Inverness side. Dr.
George Mackenzie, the laborious compiler of the
' Lives of the most eminent Writers of the Scots
nation,' is said to have been born in Fortrose. It is
certain he resided here, in an old castle belonging
to the Earl of Seaforth; and he lies interred in the
cathedral. The brave and wise Sir Andrew Murray,
regent of Scotland, was buried at Eosemarkie, in
1338. Fopulation of Fortrose in 1841, 1,082; in
1861, 928. Houses, 187.
FORTUNE. See East Fortune.
FORT-WILLIAM. See William (Fokt).
FORVIE, an ancient parish on the east coast
of Aberdeenshire. It was long ago incorporated
with Slaiks: which see. The greater part of it, to
the extent of about 1,700 acres, has for centuries
been a desert of sand, rolled into knolls and little
peaks, and scantily covered with bent. Tradition
assigns the origin of these sands to some sudden
convulsion, so long ago as the eleventh century.
The vestiges of the parish church are still visible ;
and they now furnish the only local evidence that
the district was ever inhabited.
FORVIE BURN, a stream of about 5 or 6
miles length of course, running southward to the
Ythan, chiefly on the boundary between the parish
of Slains and the parish of Logie-Buchan in Aber-
deenshire.
FOSS, a district in the quoad civilia parish of
Dull in Perthshire. It was constituted a quoad
sacra parish by the Court of Teinds in June 1845.
It is situated on the south side of the river Tummel,
toward the western extremity of Loch Tummel.
See Doll. Its post town is Pitlocbrie. Its church
is a government one, with the usual appointments
of that class of churches, and under the patronage
of the crown. A fair is held at the kirktown on the
first Tuesday of March, old style. Population in
1831 573.
FOSSAWAY and TULLIEBOLE, an united
parish, chiefly in Perthshire, but partly in Kinross-
shire, compact in form, and lying respectively at
the south-eastern and at the western verge of the
counties. It contains the post- office station of Fos-
saway, the post-office village of Blairingone, and
the villages of Crook - of - Devon and Gartwhi-
nean. It is bounded on the north by Dunning; on
the east by Orwell and Kinross; on the south by
Cleish and* Saline; on the west by Clackmannan-
shire; and on the north-west by Muckhart. Its
greatest length is about 11 miles; its greatest
breadth about 10 miles; but, its outline being very
irregular, its superficial area is not more than about
50 square miles. The united parish consists of
three districts of Fossaway in Perthshire,— one 6J
miles by 2i on the south, — one 3J by If, lying ]|
mile north of the former, — and one a narrow stripe
of half-a-mile by 2|, lying a mile eastward of the
second, and running parallel to it, all consolidated
by the insertion amongst them of Tnlliebole belong-
ing to Kinross- shire. The northern parts of Fos-
saway, and the part of Tullicbole which connects
them, constituting jointly the entire northern sec-
tion of the united parish, are a continued congeries
of hills running up to the centre of the Ochil range,
and lifting their tops from 600 to 1,100 feet above
the level of the sea. Some of the hills are covered
or patched with moss or heath; but most are ver-
dant to their very summits, and afford prime pastur-
age for both sheep and black cattle. The central
and the southern sections, consisting of the mam
body of Tulliebole and the southern part of Fossa-
way, though they are considerably upland from
sea-level, and have some little hills, are, over most
of their area, arable, and carpeted with a various
and very improveable soil of gravel, clay, till, and
loam. Tulliebole, while appearing between the
Ochil hills on the one side and the Cleish hills on
the other, to be a champaign country, sends up the
highest ground or water-shedding line in the plain
which stretches between Stirling and Kinross, and
despatches its indigenous rills in the opposite
directions of west and east. Owing to the attrac-
tion of the hills on either side, the district has more
cloudy weather, later seasons, and more frequent
falls of rain than the districts in its vicinity. Dark
and pregnant clouds are sometimes seen advancing
simultaneously along the Ochil hills and the Cleish
hills; and when they come opposite to Tulliebole,
they have been observed to send off detachments
which form a melee above the district, and dis-
charge upon it their united waters. The river
Devon comes down upon Upper Fossaway from the
west, and runs south-eastward 3J miles, tracing the
boundary-line between that district and Tulliebole
on its left bank, and the parish of Muckhart on its
right bank; and. making a sudden bend or crook at
the place appropriately called the Crnok-of-Devon,
flows 44. miles south-eastward along the boundary
between Tulliebole and lower Fossaway on the one
side, and the parish of Muckhart on the other; and
during its long course of contact with the united
parishes, it attracts both the angler by its store of
the finny tribes, and especially the tasteful tourist
by a profusion of remarkable natural curiosities.
See the Devon. Lower Queigh water rises on the
northern limit of the northward stripe of Tulliebole,
forms for a mile south-westward from its source the
boundary with Dunning in Perthshire, and de-
bouching to the south-east, so intersects for 3^
miles the united parish, as to trace the boundary
between the Perthshire and the Kinross-shire sec-
tions. Two rivulets, both called Gairney, but dis-
tinguished by the prefixes East and West, which
designate the direction of their course, both rise in
the parish, and meander among copsewood banks.
Some plantations in upper Fossaway, others in
Tulliebole, and still more extensive ones in lower
Fossaway, arranged in stripes or in mimic forests,
shelter the country, and enrich its landscape. The
principal minerals are limestone, coal, sandstone,
and ironstone, — the last of which has, in recent
years, been somewhat extensively worked. The
principal mansions are Tulliebole and Devonshaw.
The principal landowners are Baroness Keith of
Aldie, the Rev. Sir Henry Wellwood Moncrieff, Bart.,
Monerieff of Fossaway, Graham of Devonshaw, and
upwards of thirty others. The real rental is about
£9,700. Assessed property in 1866, £7,659. Pop-
ulation in 1831, 1,576; in 1861, 1,584. Houses,
344. Population of the Perthshire section in 1831,
962; in 1861, 933. Houses, 186.
There are, in this parish, two fortalices or
strengths with gun-holes and turrets, — the castle of
Tulliebole, built in the year 1608, and now belong-
ing to Sir H. W. Moncrieff of Tulliebole, — and the
castle of Aldie, built in the 16th century, and be-
longing to the Baroness Keith. The Murrays of
Tullibardine, the ancestors of the Duke of Athole,
were the ancient proprietors of the parish, and of
many lands in its vicinity; and they had at Blairin-
gone a mansion, the site of which is still called
Palace-brae. On the summit of a rising ground,
called Carleith, on the lands of Aldie, are the ruinn
of an old building, perfectly circular, and nearly 24
FOSSAWAY.
693
FOULDE1N.
feet in diameter, from the area of which were dug
up, 65 years ago, two stone-coffins containing
human tones. On the barony of Coldrain is an
oblong square mound, 3 roods and 30 falls, Scottish
measure, of area, and surrounded by a ditch of from
1.5 to 20 feet in width; it is traditionally reported to
have been the site of a strength belonging to the
Eirls of Athole, and bears the name of the Hall-
yard. A spot, lying between the lands of Gart-
whinean and those of Pitvar, and called the Monk's
grave, commemorates the sanguinary miscarriage
of one of those tricks of priestcraft, those finesses
of monkery, which, for centuries, enthralled all
honesty in Scotland. A dispute existing concern-
ing the proprietorship of the lands, a monk from
Culross appeared upon them, made oath, in behalf
of his monastery — who really possessed no claim —
that the land on which he stood was theirs, and
was instantly run through the body by an indignant
member of the Tullibardine family, the real pro-
prietors. But he proved, on an examination of his
boots, to have literally stood on some ounces of soil
which he had brought with him from Culross; and
he was buried on the scene of his equivocation and
its bloody award, conferring on posterity a lesson
of vastly deeper import than is legible on most ob-
jects of antiquarian curiosity. A small rising
ground at the east end of the village of Crook-of-
Devon, called the Gallow-know, was the scene of a
capital punishment judicially inflicted in the 17th
century, by the proprietor of Tulliebole, on one of his
vassals for the crime of murder, and reminds posterity
of the high jurisdiction formerly exercised by the
Scottish barons. In ancient times, when the kings
of Scotland passed between their palaces of Stirling
and Falkland, and when one of the Jameses, on his
way, dined and caroused at Tulliebole, a trial of
Bacchanalian strength was got up between one of
the king's troopers and one of the laird of Tullie-
bole's vassals, of the name of Keltic The trooper
having swilled and drank till be became prostrate,
Keltie quaffed another draught to proclaim his re-
volting victory, and fell headlong beside the van-
quished; but when he awoke he found that both he
and the trooper had been struggling with Death,
and that the latter had been overcome by the grim
foe. His additional draught, after the other's fall,
is commemorated in the current phrase of ' Keltie's
Mends,' applied by drunkards to a rejected or hurt-
ful intoxicating draught; and the death of his Bac-
chanalian antagonist, with its deeply solemn les-
sons, is commemorated in the name of a little pool,
' the Trooper's Dubb,' near which he was buried.
Some persons, 00 or 70 years ago, were so scared
with the superstitious fear of seeing the trooper's
apparition, that they would rather have gone a
mile out of their way than pass near his grave.
But probably the present generation of the parish-
ioners have taken the wiser course of moralizing on
the warnings given them by the commemoration of
his folly.
This parish is in the presbytery of Auchterarder,
and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, Sir
Graham Montgomery, Bart. Stipend, £104 0s. 3d.;
glebe, £8 13s. 4d. Schoolmaster's salary, £40,
with £27 fees. The parish church was built
in 1S06, and contains 525 sittings. There is a
chapel of ease at Blairingone, built in 1838, and
partially endowed from a bequest by the late Major
Montgomery of Aberdeen. There is a Free church
of Fossaway : attendance, 250 ; sum raised in
1805, £152 10s. There are three non-parochial
schools. Both Fossaway and Tulliebole were an-
ciently in the diocese of Dunblane; and they seem
to have been consolidated into one parish about the
year 1014. For a considerable period after thev
were united, the churches of both were used, the
minister officiating two Sabbaths in that of Fossa-
way, and one Sabbath in that of Tulliebole. But in
1729, both were thrown down, and a new church
built for the united parish.
FOTHRICK. See Fifesiiire.
FOTHBINGIIAM, a post-office station, and an
estate, in the parish of Inverarity, 4 miles south by
east of Forfar, Forfarshire. See Inverarity.
FOUDLAND HILLS, a tract of uplands, round
the basin of the Urie, in the parishes of Forgue,
Insch, and Culsalmond, Aberdeenshire. It stretches
east and west, rises about 1,500 feet above sea-level,
and has extensively a bleak moorish surface. In
the Insch part of it are excellent slate quarries,
which for a long time produced nearly a million of
slates a-year, chiefly for the market of Aberdeen,
and were reduced in request principally by the
greater cheapness of sea-borne carriage from the
Argyleshire quarries of Easdale. The slates are of
a clear light blue colour, and excellent quality.
FOULA. See Fowla.
FOULDEN, a parish in the eastern part of the
district of Merse, Berwickshire. It is of nearly a
square form, 2 J miles each way; and is bounded by
the parishes of Ayton, Mordington, Hutton, and
Chirnside. Its church is nearly equally distant
from the towns of Ayton, Chirnside, and Berwick;
and the last of these is its post-town. The surface
rises in a gently inclined plane from south to north,
and terminates in a ridge of heights. The soil, in
the south, is a strong clay; towards the middle of
the parish it becomes more loamy ; and in the north
is light and moorish. Excepting about 260 acres,
chiefly in the centre of the district, which are under
plantation, and about 330 in the northern division,
which are under natural pasture, all the area, com
prising about 3,000 acres, has been turned up by tho
plough, and is in prime cultivation. The heights in
the north command a magnificent prospect to the
south and west. Along the whole southern bound-
ary runs Whitadder water, between remarkably
acclivitous banks, which climb from 120 to 150
feet above the level of the stream, and which, on
the Foulden side, are repeatedly cloven by ravines,
bringing down rills and drainings from the central
or northern districts. Near the upper end of two
of these ravines or ' dens,' which deepen as they
approach the Whitadder, stands the parish-church.
The nature of this site may probably have origi-
nated the name Foulden, which was anciently writ-
ten Fulclen, and means, in the Saxon language, 'the
dirty hollow.' An old ruin, bearing the name of the
parish, appears to have been a stronghold in the
period of the Border contests. On the property of
Nun-lands was anciently an establishment of nuns.
The village of Foulden was formerly of considerable
size, and a burgh-of-barony; but has gone utterly
to decay. Four-fifths of the parish belong to
Wilkie of Foulden; and the other fifth is divided
between two proprietors. The yearly value of raw
produce was estimated in 1834 at £10,517. Assessed
property in 1865. £5,563 2s. 10d. Population in
1831, 424; in 18G1, 431. Houses, 80.
This parish is in the presbytery of Chirnside, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, Wilkie ot
Foulden. Stipend, £152 18s. Id.; glebe, £24.
Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with £10 fees, and £lu
other emoluments. The parish church was built in
1786, and is sufficient for the population. Foulden
was anciently a rectory in the deanery of the Merse,
On the 25th of March, 1587, its church was the meet-
ing-place of commissioners sent from Elizabeth to
vindicate her treatment and execution of Mary of
FOUNTAINHALL.
694
FOWLA.
Scotland, and of commissioners sent by James VI.
to hear their tale, his own mind revolting — as was
pretended — from the terrible communication to be
made, and averse to let the bearers of it pass much
within the limit of the Scottish boundary.
FOUNTAINBLEAU. See Dumfries.
FOUNTAINBRIDGE. Sec Edinburgh.
FOUNTAINHALL, a post-office hamlet in the
parish of Stow, 4 miles north-north-west of the
village of Stow, Edinburghshire. It has a station
on the Edinburgh and Hawick railway.
FOUNTAINHALL-HOUSE. See Pescaitlahd.
FOURMILEHILL, a hamlet in the parish of
Corstorphine, Edinburghshire. Population, 00.
FOUETOWNS (The), four contiguous villages,
and circumjacent lands, in the southern part of the
parish of Lochmaben, in the district of Amlandale,
Dumfries-shire. The villages are Hightae, Green-
hill, Heck, and Smallholm. Population collectively,
644. Houses, 156. The lands are a large and re-
markably fertile tract of holm, stretching along the
west side of the river Annan, from the vicinity of
Lochmaben castle, the original seat of the royal
family of Bruce, to the southern extremity of the
parish. The inhabitants of the villages are pro-
prietors of the lands, and hold them by a species of
tenure, nowhere else known in Scotland except in
the Orkney islands; and they have, from time im-
memorial, been called "the King's kindly tenants,"
and occasionally the " rentallers " of the Crown,
The lands originally belonged to the kings of Scot-
land, or formed part of their proper patrimony, and
were granted, as is generally believed, by Bruce,
the Lord of Annandale, on his inheriting the throne,
to his domestic servants, or to the garrison of the
castle. The rentallers were bound to provision the
royal fortress, and probably to carry arms in its de-
fence. They have no charter or seisin, but hold
their title by mere possession, yet can alienate their
property by a deed of conveyance, and procuring for
the purchaser enrolment in the rental-book of the
Earl of Mansfield. The new possessor pays no fee,
takes up his succession without service, and in his
turn is proprietor simply by actual possession. The
tenants were, in former times, so annoyed by the
constables of the castle, that they twice made ap-
peals to the Crown; and on both occasions — in the
reigns respectively of James VI. and Charles II. —
they obtained orders, under the royal sign-manual,
to be allowed undisturbed and full possession of
their singular rights. In more recent times, at
three several dates, these rights were formally re-
cognised by the Scottish court of session and the
British house of peers. A chief part of the lands
existed till the latter half of last century, in the
form of a commonty; but, it was then, by mutual
agreement, divided; and being provided, in its
several parcels, with neat substantial farm-houses,
and brought fully into cultivation, it soon became
more valuable than the original allotments immedi-
ately adjacent to the villages. More than a moiety
of the lands, however, lias been purchased piece-
meal by the proprietor of Eammerscales, whose
mansion-house is in the vicinity, within the limits
of the parish of Dalton. But such portions as re-
main unalienated exhibit, in the persons of their
owners, a specimen of rustic and Lilliputian aristo-
cracy unparalleled in the kingdom. If the posses-
sion of landed property in a regular line of ancestry
for several generations is what confers the dignity
of gentlemen, that title may be justly claimed by a
community whose fathers owned and occupied their
ridgeB and acres from the 13th century. Their
names run so in clusters, that soubriquets are very
erenerallv in use. ' Eichardson is the most frequent,
and Rae, Kennedy, Nicholson, and Wright are
prominent. These names and others were borne
by some companions of Wallace and Bruce, in their
patriotic struggles against the usurping Edward.
FOVERAN, a parish, containing the post-town
of Newburgh, on the east coast of Aberdeenshire.
It is bounded by the German ocean, and by the
parishes of Belhelvie, Udny, Logie-Buchan, and
Slains. Its length westward is about 7 miles; and
its breadth is about 3 miles. The river Ythan,
just before entering the ocean, forms the north-east
boundary; a small tributary of that river forms the
northern boundary; and two other small streams
ran respectively through the interior and along the
southern boundary to the ocean. The general ap-
pearance of the parish is level; but the ground rises
by a gradual ascent from the sea, though not to any
considerable height. The soil varies from a sandy
loam to a rich loam and a strong clay ; and is all
arable, fertile, and quickly promotive of vegetation.
Grass crops are generally early and luxuriant.
There are now several fine plantations. The Ythan
is navigable for small craft for nearly 3 miles, and
for vessels of 100 or 150 tons about a mile. Salmon
trout and flounders abound in it; and there are
numerous beds of mussels, which are gathered in
large quantities, and sold for food and bait at Aber-
deen. Pearls are found in the bed of the river, and
have been pretty successfully searched for 3 or 4
miles up. Near Newburgh are the rains of an old
chapel called the Eed chapel of Buchan. About
half-a-mile from the village are the ruins of the old
castle of Knockhall, one of the seats of the family
of Udny. The name Foveran signifies ' a spring,'
and alludes to a very fine fountain, adjacent to the
site of a very ancient castle, called the castle of
Foveran, which probably defended the first nucleus
of the local population, but is now quite extinct.
The mansions are Foveran-house, Tillery-house,
and Ythan-lodge. There are five principal land-
owners. Assessed property in 1860. £9,099. Popu-
lation in 1831, 1,609; in 1861, 1.891. Houses, 332.
This parish is in the presbytery of Ellon, and
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
.£192 14s. 7d. ; glebe, £11 5s. Unappropriated teinds,
£56 5s. Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with £33 I9s.
4d. fees and other emoluments. The parish church
is a plain edifice, built in 1794, and contains about
700 sittings. There is a Free church: attendance,
200; sum raised in 1865, £116 4s. 6d. There are
three non-parochial schools in the parish ; one of
them, with a small endowment, at Cultercullen.
There are a savings' bank and a friendly society in
Newburgh.
FOWLA, or Foula, an island belonging to the
parish of Walls in Shetland. It lies 16 miles west-
south-west of the nearest part of the Shetland main-
land, and 35 north-north-east of the nearest part of
Orkney. It measures about 3 miles in length and
1 J mile in breadth. It is supposed to be the Ultima
Thule of the ancients, not only from the analogy of
the name, but also from more undoubted testimony;
for Tacitus, speaking of the Roman general, Agri-
cola's victories, and the distance to which he pene-
trated northward, thus expresses himself: " Invenit
domuitque insulas quas vocant Orcades, despectaque
Thule." Now Fowla, which is high ground, is
easily seen in a clear day from the northern parts of
the Orkneys. It is very bold and steep towards the
west ; its cliffs, according to Edmonstone, literally
losing themselves in the clouds, or appearing to
pierce the belt of clouds which frequently hangs
around them. The only landing-place, called Ham,
is on the east side, and is much resorted to as a fish-
ing-station. The east side, which is much lowei
FOWLIS.
695
FOWLIS-WESTER.
than the west, is composed of granite, micaceous
Schist, and quartz; the south, west, and north sides
are composed of sandstone and sandstone-flag. The
whole island, as seen at a little distance from the
sea, appears to consist of five conical hills, rising
steeply from the water to the clouds. The highest
peak, called the Kaim, has an altitude of about
1,300 feet; and part of the sea-faces of the hills, are
almost sheer cliffs, sublime and terrible, from their
summit to their base. " The low lands remote from
the sea," says Dr. Hibhert, " are frequented by pa-
rasitic gulls, which build among the heather. The
surface of the hills swarms also with plovers, Roy-
ston crows, seapies, and curlews. On reaching the
highest ridges of the rocks, the prospect presented
on every side is of the sublimest description. The
spectator looks down from a perpendicular height
of 1,100 or 1,200 feet, and sees below, the wide At-
lantic roll its tide. Dense columns of birds hover
through the air, consisting of maws, kittywakes,
lyres, sea-parrots or guillemots. The cormorants
occupy the lowest portions of the cliffs, the kitty-
wakes whiten the ledges of one distant cliff, gulls
are found on another, and lyres on a third. The
welkin is darkened with their flight; nor is the sea
less covered with them, as they search the water in
quest of food. But when the winter appears, the
colony is fled, and the rude harmony produced by
their various screams is succeeded by a desert still-
ness. From the brink of this awful precipice, the
adventurous fowler is, by means of a rope tied round
his body, let down many fathoms; he then lands
on the ledges where the various sea-birds nestle,
being still as regardless as his ancestors of the de-
struction that awaits the falling of some loose stones
from a crag, or the untwisting of a cord." The
skua gull, called by the Shetlandevs the bonxie, oc-
cupies one of the highest cliffs, and reigns there su-
preme over all the feathered world around him,
striking such awe even into the eagle as to deter even
that mightiest of predatory-birds from attacking a
lamb in his presence; and hence is the skua gull
a great favourite of the natives. Fowla affords ex-
cellent pasturage for sheep, and supports a remarka-
bly hardy population, who have few wants, and feel
strong attachment to their ragged home. The
minister of Walls visits the place only once a-year;
but a schoolmaster, acting in some degree also as a
missionary, is constantly resident. Population in
1841. 215; in 1861, 233. Houses, 42.
FOWLIS, a post-office village in the parish of
Fowlis-Wester, Perthshire. It stands on the old
road from Stirling to Perth, 5 miles north-east of
Crieff. It is a place of considerable antiquity; and,
about twenty years ago, with the exception of a new
inn, a neat school-house, and two or three slated
cottages, it continued to wear the mean, poor, semi-
barbarous appearance which it had presented for
centuries. In the village is an ancient and curiously
sculptured cross. On one side are figures of hunters
and a hound chasing a wolf, which carries in its
mouth a human head; and on the other side are
some nearly obliterated sculpturing, and gyves for
the chaining of offenders, and fixing them up to
popular derision. A fair for black cattle and for the
hiring of servants is held on the 6th of November.
In the vicinity are the lands of Lacock, which
exult in the dignity of being a burgh-of-barony, and
legal seat of a weekly market and two annual fairs,
but, owing probably to the necessity of the case,
have modestly allowed their baronial and marketing
importance to become visible only on paper. On a
hill to the north is a double concentric Druidical
circle, the exterior range comprising 40 stones, and
measuring 54 feet in circumference; and on the west
are a cromlech and three other large Druidical
stones. Population, 187. Houses, 48.
FOWLIS, a village in the parish of Fowlis-Easter,
Perthshire. It stands on the eastern verge of the
county, about 6 miles north-west of Dundee. Popu-
lation, 46. Houses, 9.
FOWLIS-EASTER, a parish, containing the vil-
lage of Fowlis, on the eastern border of Perthshire.
It commences at the summit of the braes of the
Carse of Gowrie, and terminates in the level of the
carse at a part about 4J miles west-north-west of
Dundee. It has a triangular form, and measures
3} miles on its north side, 2J on its east side, and
4J on its south-west side. Its area is 1,944 acres.
It is bounded on the north by Lundie and Auchter-
house; on the east by Liff; and on the south-west
by Liff and Longforgan. Black-law, in the north-
west corner, is the only hill. The general surface
of the parish slopes gently to the south, and is fully
enclosed, and beautifully cultivated. A lake called
the Piper-dam, and covering 55 acres, was drained
for the sake of its marl and its peat. Two-thirds of
the parish are in tillage, and the remaining third is
disposed chiefly in woodland and pasturage. Fowlis
was the first district in an extensive tract of the
conterminous counties in which a regular rotation
of crops was attempted. The church of Fowlis, ac-
cording to an inscription still partly legible on a
large oak-beam which supported the organ-loft, was
built in the year 1142, in fulfilment of a lady's vow,
wrung from her by solicitude for her husband's safe
return from the wars of the crusade. Sir Andrew
Grey, the ancestor of Earl Grey, made it collegiate
with suitable endowments in the reign of James II.,
and placed in it a provost and several prebends.
The edifice is 89 feet long, and 27f- wide, and is all
built of hewn stone. A cross surmounts the east
gable; another 8 feet high is in the burying ground ;
and a third 14 or 15 feet high formerly stood J mile
to the north. Remains of fonts exist at the west end
of the church, and on the exterior and in the interior
of its door. Beside it is the burying vault of Lord
Grey. This parish is united to Lundie: which see.
F'OWLIS-WESTER, a parish, containing the
post-office villages of Fowlis and Gilmerton, and the
hamlet of Buchanty, near the centre of Perthshire.
It consists of two very slenderly united divisions.
The southern division is nearly a rectangle, stretch-
ing east and west on the south side of Almond water,
and connected near its north-east angle, with the
northern division, over a distance of only half-a-mile.
It is 5 J miles of average length from east to west, and
of miles of average breadth from north to south ; and
is bounded by Monzie, Methven, Madderty, and Crieff.
The northern division suddenly swells out from its
narrow breadth of half-a-mile at the connecting line
with the southern division, to an average breadth of 1 J
mile, and stretches away 5| miles to the north. It
is bounded by little Dunkcld, by a detached part of
Monzie, by the main body of Monzie, and by Dull.
The river Almond, coming down from the north-west,
and bending eastward at the point of its touching
the parish, forms, for 3 miles, the northern boundary
of the southern division, and, in the lower part of
its course, runs along the line of connection between
the two divisions. This stream here abounds in a
small kind of trout; and a few yards above the
bridge of Buchanty, forms a curious and attractive
cascade. Running beneath a wall of rock 6 feet
high, it tumbles over a rocky breast-work 7 feet in
height, into a very deep tumultuous pool ; and, in
dry weather, when its volume is diminished, it sheds
its waters round a rocky projection, from which a
basket was often, at one period, suspended by a
chain, and received numerous salmon-trout in their
FOWLIS-WESTEE.
696
FOYERS.
attempt to overleap the cascade. Breaking away
from the pool, it runs in a profound rocky canal,
amid rocky fragments and clusters of stones, over-
hung by trees and copsewood, and canopied with
mimic clouds of many-coloured spray, and passes
below the single arch of Buchanty bridge, 15 feet in
span, and rising on a level with the adjacent ground,
• -the surface of the water 32 feet below the summit
of the arch. The Pow, or Powaffray water, a mossy
and sluggish stream, rises on the western limit of
the southern division of the parish, and, over a course
of 7£ miles, uniformly traces its western and its
southern boundary, except for a brief way before
leaving it, during which it runs slightly into the in-
terior. This stream, having formerly covered with
its waters much of the ground in its vicinity, flows
in an artificial channel, cut for it by authority of an
act of the Scottish parliament, — remarkable for being
the last act passed before the Union. Braan water,
celebrated for its scenery and cascades, comes clown
frqm the west, and forms the northern boundary
with Little Dunkeld. Milton burn, coming down
from the north-east, and falling into the Almond,
traces the boundary with the detached part of
Monzie. Shellegan burn, a beautiful limpid stream,
flowing parallel with the former, forms the bound-
ary with the main bod}- of Monzie. The ravines
and romantic dells through which these streams
flow are graced with numerous tiny cascades and
little cataracts, which please by the frequency of
their recurrence and the variety of their aspect.
The northern division of the parish consists of
ragged spurs of the Grampians, divides Logiealmond
from Strathbraan, and is nearly all wild or pastoral.
Its surface rises gradually, for a brief way, from
Braan water on the north, and consists of mountain-
ous elevations till very near the Almond, when it
descends with a rapid declivity and terminates in a
stripe of arable land. The southern division is re-
markably varied, and, in general, exceedingly une-
qual in surface. On the banks of the Almond it
sends down hills dotted and freckled with trees and
copse-wood. On the north-east is the estate of
Keiller, undulating and hilly, but beautified with
the trees of an ancient lawn, and containing much
fertile soil, well-cultivated and enclosed. Along
the banks of the Pow,' over the whole extent of the
southern boundary, is an opulent and finely-shel-
tered valley. All the rest of the southern division
consists of dells and hilly ranges, remarkably vari-
ous in form. The hills are so distinctively featured
and naturally classified, as to be arranged under the
different names of the braes of Fowlis, the braes of
Dury, the braes of Gorthy, and the braes of Keiller;
and they have all a southern exposure, and are so
adorned with stripes and clumps of plantation, with
little masses of copsewood, with rich enclosures,
with winding and romantic ravines, and with rills,
now purling and limpid, now noisy and foaming,
as to wear a very imposing appearance. In the
south-west angle are the numerous fenced-fields,
gardens, and plantations around the superb Gothic
modern house of Abercairney. The approach to
that mansion passes, for 500 yards, through forest,
along the side of a deep, sinuous, rooky dell, densely
crowded with shrubs and trees, and traversed by a
brawling and often invisible stream ; and, then, re-
tiring obliquely 300 yards farther through the
forest, presents, in succession to the view, a prolu-
sion of scenic beauties, — wide sloping lawns, rich
meadows, gay garden-grounds, pleasing acclivities,
tiny cascades, and artificial lakes and islands. —
Nearly two miles north-west, and on the western
limit, around the house of Cultoquey, is a luxuriant
wood, straggling in clumps and detachments over
gravelly hillocks, so various and strange in form,
and thrown together in so remarkable a congeries,
as to attract the notice and occasionally excite the
wonder of the tourist. From the site of the manse,
on the declivity of the high rising grounds east of
Cultoquey, a magnificent prospect is obtained of
Strathearn and Strathmore, terminated by the grand
and distant outline of the Ochil and the Lomond
hills.
The soil, in the valley of the Pow, consists of
alluvial deposit ; and, in other arable parts of the
parish, is very various — gravelly, sandy, clayey,
and loamy; and, where it rests on rock, is, in gene-
ral, fertile, but where it has a clayey subsoil, is cold
and wet and unproductive. Slate is found in the
hills of the northern division; a species of limestone
occurs at Buchanty; and sandstone is, in general,
plentiful. On the farm of Castleton, in the estate
of Fowlis, on the east side of a den or ravine, is a
grassy mound, comprising the last ruins of the
castle and seat of the Earls of Strathearn. Malise,
the 1st Earl, acted a distinguished part, in 1138, at
the battle of the standard. Gilbert, his grandson,
founded, in 1200, the monastery of Inchaftray, near
the Scottish border. Malise, the 7th Earl, acted an
energetic part in the wars of the succession, signed
the celebrated letter to the Pope, and during the
minority of David Brace, made strenuous opposition
to Edward Baliol; but, proving to be on the losing
side of the contest, he suffered a forfeiture of his
earldom, and left no issue to claim a resumption of
his rights. Mary, his only sister, however, having
been married to Sir John Moray of Drumsergard,
the lineal heir of Sir Andrew Moray of Bothwell,
the earldom was afterwards restored by King
David to her son, Sir Maurice Moray; and, he
being killed, in 1346, at the battle of Durham, and
leaving no issue, it reverted to the crown. The
family of Abercairney, descended from Maurice, the
last Earl's brother, are now the lineal representa-
tives of both the Earls of Strathearn and the Lords
of Bothwell. The Maxtones of Cultoquey also are
an ancient family descended from the same remote
common ancestor as the Maxwells. There are nine
principal landowners. The total present rent-value
of the arable land is about £11,600. About 7 parts
in 25 of the entire area are arable, 16 pastoral, and
2 woodland. The yearly value of raw produce was
estimated in 1S37 at £28,000. Assessed property
in 1866, £14,092. The constructing of sieves is a
species of manufacture nearly peculiar to the parish ;
and, while of some antiquity, continues to yield
ample support to a limited population. The weav-
ing of cotton cloth for manufacturers in Glasgow
likewise employs some persons. Population in
1831, 1,680; in 1861, 1,433. Houses, 295.
This parish is in the presbytery of Auchterarder,
and synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, Moray of
Abercairney. Stipend, £224 17s. 3d.; glebe, £20.
Unappropriated teinds. £142 5s. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50, with £30 fees. The parish church is an
old building, at present undergoing repairs, and
containing about 800 sittings. Small sections of
the parish belong quoad sacra to the parochial church
of Monzie and the government church of Amulree.
There are four non-parochial schools.
FOYVLSHEUGH. See Ddnmottae.
FOWLSIIIELS. See Selkikk. „ , ,, ,
FOXLEY, a village in the parish of Old Monk-
land, Lanarkshire.
FOYERS, or Feachun, a stream of the central
part of the mainland of Inverness-shire. It rises
among the lofty mountains south-west of the sources
of the Findhorn, and runs about 14 miles north-
north-westward, along a high glen, and through a
FOYERS.
697
FOYERS.
wild country, to a sudden precipitation of its waters
over the south-eastern screen of I.ocli Ness, and
into the waters of that lake, at a point about a mile
above the General's hut, and 11 miles from Fort
Augustus. It is famous for its romantic character,
and still more for two stupendous falls which it
makes between the glen and the lake. " From its
form," says Stoddart, "there can be little doubt
that the glen was once floated by a lake, until the
waters forcing their way through the mountain-side,
formed the awful f^all which soon presented itself to
our view." The falls are situated nearly 2 miles
from the shore of Loch Ness, and may be approach-
ed either by the road from Fort- Augustus to Inver-
ness on that side, or by landing from the steam-
boat, which waits regularly that passengers ma}'
have an opportunity of visiting them, or by rowing
specially across from the opposite shore; and excel-
lent footpaths lead to them through the grounds of
Fraser of Foyers. The lower fall — which is first
approached in this way — is by much the higher
and more shaking of the two. After ascending the
hills to a considerable height, the tourist descends
towards the bank of the river, and at length finds
himself on a narrow but lofty ridge of rock covered
with green turf, which rises from the bed of the
river, and is nearly surrounded by its waters. Here
the fall meets his astonished view immediately in
front of where he stands. He is surrounded with
rocks of enormous height, fringed with tangled
masses of shrubs, which are nourished by the con-
stant spray ascending from the boiling waters.
Oak and pine trees of fantastic shape grow from
every rent and crevice of the rocky walls, — adding
a wild grace to what would otherwise be a scene of
horror. Clouds of vapour for ever ascend ; and
the roar of the falling waters is never hushed.
" Through the 'shapeless breach' bursts a torrent,
which, confined by the narrow channel above,"
says Stoddart, "shoots in one unbroken column,
white as snow, into a deep caldron formed by the
black rocks below. By the vast height and the
large body of the water, a quantity of spray is
created, which forms a perpetual shower, glittering
like dew on the verdure around, casting a transpa-
rent mist over the gloomy cavemed rocks, and
rising like the smoke of a furnace into the air.
This appearance, seen at a considerable distance,
has occasioned the country people to give it the
picturesque name of Eass na Smudh, by which they
also characterize the falls above Kinloch-Leven.
No spot, however, which I have seen, is at all com-
parable to this, in the strong and sudden impression
which it produces. The falls of Clyde are, indeed,
more beautiful, more varied, and have a larger
quantity of water; but the openness of the view
renders them much less sublime. There is some-
thing in the darkness and imprisonment of wild
overhanging crags, inexpressibly awful; and in
this instance their grandeur is heightened by the
kindred impulses around, by the ceaseless toil of
the struggling river, by the thundering sound of a
thousand echoes, and, where the jutting barriers do
not exclude the view, by the mighty summit of
Mealfourvounie rising beyond the lake." Alto-
gether the lower fall of the Foyers is a scene of the
utmost sublimity ; and even the boldest observer
cannot stand on the ledge of rock we have men-
tioned, and behold the mass of waters tumbling
from above into the dark chasm beneath, without
his feelings being excited in the highest degree.
Dr. E. D. Clarke has pronounced it to be a finer
cascade than that of Tivoli, and inferior only to the
falls of Terui. Many varied opinions as to the
height of this fall have been given ; but we believe
we are correct when wc say, that it is about 90
feet.
The upper fall is about a quarter of a mile from
the lower. The height of it is only about 40 feet ;
but it also exhibits great grandeur, and, were it not
for the neighbourhood of the other, "would be more
admired than it is. Here the river sweeps its dark
brown waters through a smooth meadow, until,
reaching the edge of the rock over which they are
precipitated, they break into white foam, and dis-
appear in the abyss. Lofty rocks and varied wood
lend their aid also to this scene; and a picturesque
bridge, which here spans the ravine, immediately
below the fall, at a height of about 200 feet above
the surface of the stream, renders it more pleasing
to the eye, and better adapted for the pencil of the
artist, than the lower fall. Before the erection of
the bridge, about the year 1780, two or three rough
planks carelessly thrown across the chasm formed
the only means of passage from the one bank to the
other. But the best view of this fall and its sur-
rounding scenery is to be obtained from the channel
of the stream below the bridge. A narrow path
descends the rock on the eastern side of the chan-
nel, yet of such a character that it is not every
visitor who has nerve sufficient to descend. The
grandeur of the scenery, however, cannot be fully
enjoyed, without making this descent. The rapid
between the two falls has a declivity of 30 feet,
through a channel fretted in rock ; so that the total
height, from the top of the upper to the bottom of
the lower fall, is 160 feet.
" The fall of Foyers," says Professor Wilson, " is
the most magnificent cataract, out of all sight and
hearing, in Britain. The din is quite loud enough
in ordinary weather — and it is only in ordinary
weather that you can approach the place, from
which you have a full view of all its grandeur.
When the fall is in flood — to say nothing of being
drenched to the skin — you are so blinded by the
sharp spray smoke, and so deafened by the dashing
and clashing and tumbling and rumbling thunder,
that your condition is far from enviable, as you
cling, ' lonely lover of nature,' to a shelf by no
means eminent for safet}T, above the horrid gulf.
Nor in former times was there any likelihood of
your being comforted by the accommodations of the
General's hut. In ordinary Highland weather —
meaning thereby weather neither very wet nor very
dry — it is worth walking a thousand miles for one
hour to behold the fall of Foyers. The spacious
cavity is enclosed by ' complicated cliffs and per-
pendicular precipices' of immense height; and
though for a while it wears to the eye a savage as-
pect, yet beauty fears not to dwell even there, and
the horror is softened by what appear to be masses
of tall shrubs or single shrubs almost like trees.
And they are trees, which on the level plain would
look even stately ; but as they ascend, ledge above
ledge, the walls of that awful chasm, it takes the
eye time to see them as they really are, while on
our first discernment of their character, serenely
standing among the tumult, they are felt on such
sites to be sublime. ' Between the falls and the
strath of Stratherrick,' say the Messrs. Anderson,
' a space of three or four miles, the river Foyers
flows through a series of low rocky hills clothed
with birch. They present various quiet glades
and open spaces, where little patches of cultivated
ground are encircled by wooded hillocks, whose
surface is pleasingly diversified by nodding trees,
bare rocks, empurpled heath, and bracken bearing
herbage.' It was the excessive loveliness of some
of the scenery there that suggested to us the thought
of going to look what kind of a stream the Foyers
FRANKFIELD LOCH.
698
FRASERBURGH.
was above the fall. We went, and in the quiet of
a summer evening, found it
' Was even the gentlest of all gentle things.' "
FRAISGILL. See Tongue.
FRANKFIELD LOCH, a small lake in the
Barony parish of Glasgow, serving as a feeder to
the Glasgow town mills.
FRAOCH ISLAND, a small island in Loch Awe,
near Kilchurn castle, Argyleshire. It was at one
time the Hesperides of the surrounding country ;
and is the subject of a boldly romantic local legend.
It was granted in the 13th century, by Alexander
III. to Gilbert Macnaughton; and it contains the
ruins of a strong fortalice in which the descendants
of Macnaughton resided.
FRAOCHY (Loch), a lake in Glenquoich, in the
parishes of Dull and Keninore, Perthshire. It is
about 2J miles long and ^ a mile broad. In its
south-west corner is a small wooded island, which is
the scene of an interesting legend, told in the beau-
tiful poem of " Dun Fraoich," published in Gillies'
collection of Gaelic songs. On the south bank of
the lake is a shooting-lodge of the Marquis of
Breadalbane.
FRASERBURGH, a parish, containing the post-
town of Fraserburgh and the village of Broadsea,
in the north-eastern extremity of Aberdeenshire.
It is bounded by the German ocean, and by the par-
ishes of Rathen, Strichen, Aberdour, Tyrie, and
Pitsligo. But a considerable district of it on the
south-west is detached from the main body, to the
distance of 1 J mile, by the intervention of Rathen.
The length of the whole parish south-westward, in-
cluding the interjected tract of Rathen, is 8 miles;
and its breadth is about 3i miles. The coast ex-
tends about 4 miles, and is partly sandy and partly
rocky. Kinnaird-head, in N. lat. 57° 42', and W.
long. 2° 1', is a high promontory, projecting into
the sea. It is generally believed to be the Promon-
torium Taixaliuiu of Ptoletny, being the turning-
point into the yEstuarium Vararite or Moray frith.
There is an old tower on this promontory called
the Wine tower, with a cave under it, and at one
time probably connected with the adjoining house,
now the lighthouse. On the south-east of Kin-
naird-head is the beautiful bay of Fraserburgh, 3
miles in length. Along the shore the soil is in
general good; but the interior parts are gravelly.
Except the hill of Mormond, situated on the south-
west boundary, and elevated 800 feet above sea-
level, the whole surface is nearly flat, gradually
rising, however, from the coast to its most distant
and elevated district. The sea has receded from
the land in some places, and encroached on it in
others. The land, except about 80 acres of moss,
is all arable. The parish, at one time, abounded
with wood, and there are some fine old trees at
Philorth house, the seat of Lord Saltoun, to which
several beautiful and extensive plantations have
been added. Granite, limestone, and ironstone
abound; and there are chalybeate springs in differ-
ent places. The principal antiquities are an old
tower, at the west end of the town, afterwards to
be noticed, the ruin of a chapel, called the college,
at which some of the monks of Deer resided, and
where probably they held a seminary, the ruins of
another chapel, and some ruins of Danish or Pictish
houses. Lord Saltoun is much the most extensive
landowner, and there are two others. The valued
rental is £3,000 Scots. Assessed property in 1860,
£13,876. Population in 1831, 2,954; in 1861, 4,511.
Houses, 696
This parish is in the presbytery of Deer, and
svnod of Aberdeen. Patron, Lord Saltoun. Sti-
pend, £261 19s. 3d.; glebe, £9. Unappropriated
teinds, £14 lis. 5d. The parish church is a plain
structure, built in 1802, situated about the middle
of the town, with a spire and bell, and contains
about 1,000 sittings. There is a Free church, with
an attendance of about 500; and the sum raised in
connexion with it in 1865 was £320 16s. 9d.
Thereis an Episcopalian chapel, built in 1793, with
288 sittings, and an attendance of nearly 200.
There is also a Congregational chapel, which was
built in 1853, and has 550 sittings, and an attend-
ance of 300. The parochial school, situated in the
town, is a very superior establishment, with a range
of education equal to that of many of the Scottish
burgh academies. Schoolmaster's salary, £50,
with £56 fees, a share of the Dick bequest, and
other emoluments. There are nine other schools.
The parish was originally called Philorth ; and that
name is still retained by its principal estate.
FRASERBURGH, a post-town, a seaport, and a
burgh of regality, stands on the north-west side of
the bay of Fraserburgh, and south side of Kinnaird-
head, 17& miles north-north-west of Peterhead, 22
east of Banff, and 42 north of Aberdeen. It was
founded early in the 16th century, on the estate of
Fraser of Philorth; and was constituted a burgh of
regality in 1613. It no doubt took the name of
Fraserburgh from Fraser of Philorth, either origin-
ally as lord of the soil or subsequently as the pro-
curer of its charter ; and it seems to have very soon
communicated its name to the parish. It is neatly
built, of a square form, with most of the streets,
which are spacious, crossing each other at right
angles. Numerous improvements have been made
in recent times. Elegant and comfortable houses
have been erected, and new streets laid out on a
symmetrical plan. The cross, erected by Sir Alex-
ander Fraser, was a fine structure, of a' hexagonal
figure, with three equidistant hexagonal abutments,
a ground area of about 500 feet, and a surmounting
stone pillar 12 feet high, bearing the British arms
and the arms of Fraser; but it has been greatly
curtailed and altered. At the west end of the town
are vestiges of a quadrangular tower of three stories,
which was a small part of a large edifice intended to
have been erected as a college, by Sir Alexander
Fraser, who obtained a charter, in 1592, for the in-
stitution of an university here; but the design was
never carried into effect. The places of worship
and the parochial schoolhouse are creditable struc-
tures. The town house is a handsome building,
erected in 1855, with a dome. The harbour commis-
sioners' hall is an elegant and commodious edifice.
" Fraserburgh," said the New Statistical Account
in 1840, " is one of the old burghs of regality, hav-
ing its government vested in Lord Saltoun, the
superior, two bailies, a dean of guild, a treasurer,
and a council. His lordship has the right and
authority of provost, with power to nominate and
appoint yearly the new magistrates and council,
with the advice and consent of the old. By the
charter, the fenars and incorporated brethren of the
guild have liberty to exercise all kinds of trade and
merchandise. Those who are not freemen, may be
debarred this privilege; but, for a long period this
exclusion has not been insisted on. The feuars are
obliged to uphold the public works of the town;
but for doing so the market customs were granted
them; and in lieu of some privileges which they
possessed over commonable lands, they have obtain-
ed others from Lord Saltoun, which now rent at
£58 sterling per annum. These funds have been
hitherto applied to repairing the streets, and open-
ing new ones, but chiefly to bringing water into the
town for domestic use. of which its inhabitants
F11EEBURN.
G99
FULLARTON.
stood in gveat needy and of which there is now
an ample supply. It is not improbable, however,
that this burgh will soon undergo such a change
in its constitution, as has been lately effected in
others." Sheriff small debt courts are held four
times a-vear.
Fraserburgh is in a thriving condition at once as
a seaport, as a centre of the herring fishery, and as
the seat of a considerable provincial trade. It be-
gan, during the last war, to experience a great,
progressive and permanent increase to all its pre-
vious worth as a port, by the founding of a spacious
artificial harbour at it as a place of retreat for Brit-
ish trading ships, suffering from stress of weather in
the North sea, — this being the nearest point of land
which can be reached. Theworkscost about £50, 000,
and include commodious piers and jetties on an area
of 6 Scotch acres. A new harbour to the north of
this is at present in course of construction, and will
shortly be finished, to comprise an area of about 17J
acres, and to he sheltered by a breakwater extending
from the end of the pier. The present harbour also,
which does not admit vessels of greater draft than
14 feet, is in the course of being deepened. These
works render Fraserburgh one of the best retreats
for shipping on the north-east coast. Yet the
situation of the town, with the sea stretching in
three directions round the land, thus left to occupy
only the remaining quadrant of the circle, may pre-
clude the prospect of its ever becoming a great port.
Contiguous to the harbour is a tolerable road for
shipping, with good anchorage in Fraserburgh bay.
There are numerous vessels belonging to Fraser-
burgh. All sorts of grain, pease, beans, potatoes,
and dried and pickled cod, besides herrings, are
exported ; and coals, timber, lime, tiles, bricks, salt,
and general merchandise are imported. The shore
dues rose from £35 in 1808 to £2,000 in 1840. In
the year 1853, the number of barrels of herrings
caught and cured at the Fraserburgh fisheries was
53,755; the number of persons employed in these
fisheries "was 3,187; and the total value of boats,
nets, and lines employed was £18.503. Shipbuild-
ing is carried on to a limited extent; and ropes,
sails, and linen yam are manufactured. The town
has a branch of the Bank of Scotland, a branch of
the Union bank, a branch of the North of Scotland
bank, a savings' bank, a mechanics' institution, a
oublic library, and two societies for the diffusion of
religious knowledge. The chief hotel is the
Saltoun. Public coaches run regularly to Peter-
head and Aberdeen. Population in 1861, 3,101.
Houses, 425.
FREEBURN, a locality, with an inn, near the
north-east verge of Inverness-shire. It is situated
in Strathdearn, on the left bank of the Findhorn,
and on the great road from Inverness to Perth, 15J
miles south-east of Inverness. Fairs are held here
on the Saturday after the 19th of Hay, on the Friday
in August before Campbelton, on the Monday in
August after Beauly, on the third Tuesday of Sep-
tember, and on the second day in October after
Beauly.
FREELAND. See Forgaxdexny.
FRENDRAUGHT. See Forgue.
FRESGO-HEAD, a small headland in the parish
of Reay, near the north-west extremity of Caithness-
shire.
FRESWICK, a village on the east coast of the
parish of Canisbay, 3 miles south of John o' Groat's
house, in Caithness-shire. A fair for horses, cattle,
and swine is held here on the first Tuesday of Febru-
ary, old style. Population, 414. In the vicinity area
bay, a headland, and a mansion of the name of Fres-
wick. See Canisbay. A stream, called Freswick
burn, about 3 or 4 miles in length of course, runs
eastward into the bay.
FREUCHIE, a post-office village on the eastern
border of the parish of Falkland, 2 miles east by
south of the town of Falkland, Fifeshire. It stands
at the north- east base of East Lomond hill, on the
road from Falkland to Kettle. It is an irregularly
built place, in an ill-kept condition ; and is inhabited
principally by fcuars engaged in hand-loom weaving.
Here is an United Presbyterian church, with 450
sittings. Population, in 1861, 961.
FREUCHIE (Loch). See Fkaocuy (Loch).
FRIARS. See Roxburgh.
FRIAR'S CARSE. See Dunscobe.
FRIAR'S GLEN. See Fohdoun.
FRIARTON, a village in the East church parish
of Perth. Population, 62. Houses, 8.
FRIARTON (Nether). See Forgan.
FRIOCKHEIM, a post-office village in the parish
of Kirkden, Forfarshire. It stands nearly in the
centre of the maritime division of the county, at the
junction of the Aberdeen railway with the Arbroath
and Forfar railway, 6J miles north-west by west of
Arbroath, and 8i east of Forfar. It rose suddenly
into bulk about 25 years ago, by operatives in con-
nection with the textile manufactures being induced
to feu houses at a cheap rate on the estate of Mid-
dleton; and it acquired material increase of impor-
tance first by the construction of the Arbroath and
Forfar railway placing it on a grand thoroughfare
between these towns, and next by the formation of
the Aberdeen railway making it a centre of transit
for all places north of the Tay. The railway centre
here is environed by three acute curves of rails.
The village has a chapel of ease, a Free church, and
a Congregational chapel; and it is a station of the
county constabulary. Population, in 1S61, 1,239.
FRISKY-HALL". See Bowling Bay.
FROGDEN. See Linton.
FROON. See Fruin.
FROSTLY "WATER, a rivulet of the parish of
Teviothead, Roxburghshire. It rises at Linhope-
grains on the south-western verge of the county,
and runs about 5 miles northward, along a glen, to
a confluence with the Teviot.
FRUID (The), a tributary of the Tweed, in the
parish of Tweedsmuir, Peebles-shire. It rises be-
tween Saddle-crag and Falcon-crag on the boundary-
line with Dumfries-shire; flows northward f of a
mile; next flows in a direction west of north 3f miles,
receiving on its left Carterhope-burn ; and then
flows northward 2 miles, and falls into the Tweed
1J mile above Tweedsmuir-clmreh. The narrow
vale which forms its basin, hemmed in by ridges of
grassy hills, partakes of the beautiful and romantic
character for which Peebles-shire is so remarkable.
FRUIN (The), a rivulet of the western part of
Dumbartonshire. It rises on the mountains in the
north-west of the parish of Row, within 2| miles of
Loch-Long, and runs first about 7 miles south-east-
ward to the vicinity of the point where the parishes
of Row, Cardross, and Luss meet, and then about
2J miles across the south end of Luss to an influx
ii to Loch-Lomond, nearly opposite the lower end
of Inch-Murren. The greater part of its course is
along a glen to which it gives the name of Glen-
fruin; sec that article. It is a good fronting stream.
FUDIA, a small fertile island of the Hebrides, 2i
miles north of Barra. It exhibits a number of granite
veins, some of which contain oxidulous iron. Pop-
ulation, 5.
FULDEN. See Fodlden.
FULGAE SKERRY. See Shetland.
FULLARTON, a burgh of barony, within the
parliamentary boundaries of the burgh of Irvine,
FULTON.
700
FYVIE.
Dut situated on the opposite bank of Irvine water,
and belonging to the parish of Dundonald, Ayrshire.
It is connected with Irvine by a handsome bridge ;
and is sufficiently large and well-edificed to be rather
a rival of that town, or a component part of it, than
a mere suburb. It was supposed, from the year
1G90 to the year 1823, to belong to the parish of
Irvine, having in the former of those years been
technically united to that parish, but, an appeal
having been made to the Court of Session in 1823
on a question of pauper-money, it was found to have
legally belonged all along to Dundonald. It has a
chapel of ease and a Free church ; and shares gener-
ally in the institutions and the trade of Irvine. Popu-
lation, 3,103. Houses, 712. See Dundonald and
Irvine.
FULTON, a quondam village, of some little con-
sequence in the times of the Border feuds, but now
recognisable only by the vestiges of its castle or peel-
house, in the parish of Bedrule, 4 miles south-west
of Jedburgh', Roxburghshire.
FUNGARTH, a village in the vicinity of Dun-
keld, on a tract which belongs politically to Caputh,
Perthshire. Population, 76. Houses, 17. See Dux-
KELD.
FUNTACK (The), a stream, issuing from Loch-
Moy, and running 3 or 4 miles south-eastward, along
an inhabited glen, to a confluence with the Findhorn,
a little below Freeburn, in the parish of Moy and
Dalarossie, Inverness-shire.
FUNZIE BAY. See Fetlak.
FURNACE, a village with a post-office, in the
parish of Inverary, Argyleshire. Population, 75.
FUSHIE-BRIDGE, a locality, with an inn and a
post-office, in the parish of Borthwiek, Edinburgh-
shire. It is situated near the South Esk, on the
road from Edinburgh to Galashiels, 11 miles south-
east of Edinburgh by road, but 13 by railway; and
it has a station on the Hawick branch of the North
British railway.
FUTTIE. See Aberdeen.
FYNE (Loch), an extensive sea-loch, formed by
ramification of the frith of Clyde, in Argyleshire.
It deflects from the main body of the frith, at the bead
of Kilbranan sound, and in continuation of the broad
belt of waters which divides Bute and Arran ; and
it penetrates Argyleshire in the direction of north-
north-west, forming the boundary between the dis-
trict of Cowal on the east, and the districts of Kin-
tyre, Knapdale, and Argyle-proper on the west. Its
length is about 32 miles; and its breadth varies
from 12 to 3, but its average breadth is about 4 or 5
miles. Half-way up on the west side, it sends out a
small arm called Loch-Gilp, whence is cut the Cri-
nan canal to the sound of Jura : see article Ceinan
Canal. Its depth is from 60 to -70 fathoms. It
receives numerous small streams on both shores, and
the Aray near its northern extremity. Within 5
miles of its head, it spreads out into a noble bay
before Inverary, forming an irregular circle of about
12 or 14 miles in circumference, beautifully indented
with a variety of peninsulas, and surrounded by
mountains. See Inverary. Gilpin says, "Its screens
are every where equal to the expanse of its waters.
They are indeed chiefly naked, and want some such
munificent hand as we had just left at Inverary to
spread a little sylvan drapery upon their bare, en-
ormous sides. But what they lose in beauty they
gain in grandeur. Their situation also upon the
lake operated as another cause, to impress the idea
of grandeur. Nothing exalts the dignity of a moun-
tain so much as its rising from the water's edge. In
measuring it, as it appears connected with the ground,
the eye knows not where to begin, but continues
creeping up in quest of a base, till half the mountain
is lost. But a water-line prevents this ambiguity;
and to the height of the mountain even adds the
edging at the bottom, which naturally belongs not
to it. Thus the mountain of Duniquoicb, seen from
the new inn at Inverary, appears as if it rose from
the water's edge, though in fact the Duke of Argyle's
lawn intervenes, all which the mountain appropri-
ates ; and though it measures only 835 feet, it has
a more respectable appearance than many mountains
of twice its height unconnected with water. But
these screens, though the grand idea is principally
impressed upon them, are not totally devoid of beauty.
Two circumstances in a lake-screen produce this
quality; the line, which its summits form, and the
water-line, which is formed by projections into the
lake. Of these modes of beauty we had great pro-
fusion ; and might have filled volumes with sketches.
But unless there is something in a scene besides
these beautiful lines, something which is striking
and characteristic, it has little effect in artificial
landscape. Uncharacterized scenery is still less
adapted to uncoloured drawing, the beauty of which
depends chiefly on composition and the distribution
of light. In painting, indeed, colouring may give
it some value ; but in this kind of simple drawing,
something more interesting is required to fix the eye;
some consequential part, to which the other parts of
the composition are appendages. In our whole ride
round this extensive bay of Loch-Fyne, we met only
one object of any consequence to mark the scenery.
It was a mined castle upon a low peninsula. The
lake spread in a bay before it, and behind it hung a
grand curtain of distant mountains ; one of which
is marked with a peculiar feature — that of a vast
ridge sloping towards the eye. We now approach
the end of the lake, where, in the seaman's phrase,
we raked a long reach of it. When we view in this
direction, and conceive ourselves at the head of a bay
of salt water, sixty or seventy fathoms deep, four
miles in breadth, and at least fifty from the sea, we
have a grand idea of the immense cavern, which is
scooped out between these ranges of mountains as
the receptacle of this bed of waters. If we could
have seen it immediately after the diluvian crash,
or whatever convulsion of nature occasioned it, be-
fore the waters gushed in, what a horrid chasm,
must it have appeared !
So high as heaved the tumid hills, so low
Down sunk a hollow bottom, broad, and deep
Capacious bed of waters"
The ruined castle noticed by Gilpin, in the above
extract, is that of Dunderawe, a very ancient fir-
tress of the Ardkinlass family. The present build-
ing bears the date 1596. Loch Fyne has been, from
time immemorial, noted for its herrings, which are
of a superior quality to any found in the Western
seas. The fishery commonly begins in July or
August, and continues till the 1 st of January, during
which time the lake is frequented by vast shoals.
At one period there were annually caught and cured
in this arm of the sea upwards of 20,000 barrels of
herrings, valued at 25s. per barrel.
FYVIE, a parish, containing a post-office station
of its own name, in the Turriff district of Aberdeen-
shire. It is bounded by Turriff,Montquhitter, Meth-
lick, Tarves, Old Meldrum, Daviot, Rayne, and
Auchterless. Its church is distant 9 miles from the
town of Turriff, and 7 J from the town of Old Mel-
drum. The greatest length of the parish, south-
westward, is 13 miles ; its greatest breadth is 8
miles ; and its area is about 42 square miles. The
small river Ythan runs from west to east, in a very
devious course, first southward and then northward,
through the parish, dividing it into nearly two
equal parts. The surface of the parish is uneven.
FYVIE
roi
GA1KIE.
with a pleasing variety ; but the hills are of small
elevation. Eastertown hill, in the southern extrem-
ity, is the principal elevation. There is a small
ridge, termed the Windy hills. The soil is various,
but, in general, fertile, especially along the banks
of the Ythan, in the Howe of Fyvie, where are situ-
ated the church and Fyvio castle, the eminences
surrounding which are covered with wood. An
extensive and valuable plantation, chiefly of firs,
also runs in the Den of Rothie, west from the Howe
of Fyvic, for nearly three miles. There are, in all,
between 1,700 and 1,800 acres of wood in the par-
ish. In the northern district, there are large tracts
of moss, and a poor soil ; but much of the land has
been improved by draining. The heath and moss
may be estimated at nearly 7,000 acres. The re-
mainder, exclusive of that which is covered with wood,
is chiefly arable : but there are about 2,500 acres of
pasture "land. The total yearly value of produce
has been estimated at £43,784. Whinstone is the
chief mineral: it is of excellent quality, and may
be obtained in immense slabs. Fyvie castle is the
principal mansion : it is an extensive and venerable
Gothic edifice, — one of the first, even in the county.
It stands on the north-eastern bank of the Ythan,
in a beautiful park, within which there is an ex-
tensive lake, well-stocked with fish. Kothie, about
3 miles west of the church, is a pleasant modern
mansion, adorned with tasteful plantations; so also
is Kinbroom, about a mile west from Rothie. Gight
castle is a fine old ruin, on the north bank of the
river, in the near vicinity of natural and planted
woods, amid a combination of very beautiful scenery.
There are also ruinsofapriory of the Tyronenses, said
to have been founded by Fergus, Earl of Buchan, about
the year 1179: and afterwards dependent on the abbey
of Aberbrothock. A burgh of Fyvie is said to be al-
luded to in certain charters preserved in Fyvie
castle ; and there is still a hamlet called Lewes-of-
Fyvie. The parish contains seven corn mills, and is
traversed by the road from Aberdeen to Banff. A
coach passes through from Turriff in connexion witli
the Invemry station of the Great North of Scotland
railway. Fairs are held on the estate of Fyvie at
Fastern's E'en, and on the day in July before Stricken.
The principal landowners are the Earl of Aberdeen,
Gordon of Fyvie, and Leslie of Rothie ; but there
are several others. The real rental is about £6,200.
Assessed property in 1860, £13,663. Population in
1831. 3,252 ; in 1861, 4,344. Houses, 791.
This parish is in the presbytery of Turriff, and
svnod of Aberdeen. Patron, Gordon of Fyvie. Sti-
pend, £223 19s. lid.; glebe, £17 10s. Unappropri-
ated teinds, £122 14s. 2d. The bounds of the parish,
quoad sacra and quoad civilia, are not now the
same. A district in the southern part of the parish,
containing a population of about 75, is annexed
quoad sacra to Daviot ; and another on the west,
containing a population of 25, is annexed to Rayne.
The parish church was built in 1808, and contains
1,114 sittings. There is a chapel of ease at Mill-
brex, containing about 500 sittings, and aided from
the royal bounty. There is a Free church of Fyvie:
attendance, 375; sum raised in 1865, £196 17s. 8d.
There are two Episcopalian chapels, at respectively
Woodhead and Meiklefolla, — the latter with an
attendance of 250. The parochial schoolmaster
has a salary of £45, with about £37 fees, and a
share of the Dick bequest. There are 5 non-paro-
chial schools and a savings' bank.
G
GAASKEIR, a small island of the Outer He-
brides, about 12 miles north-west of Taransay. It-
is frequented by prodigious flocks of wild geese.
GADGIRTH. ' See Coyltok and Staik.
GADGIRTHHOLM. See Bankfoot.
GADIE (The), a rivulet of Aberdeenshire. It
rises in the parish of Clatt, on the borders of the
Garioch district, and runs about 12 miles eastward,
through Leslie, Premnay, Oyne, and Chapel of
Garioch, to a confluence with the Ury, a short dis-
tance above the latter's junction with the Don. The
Gadie was the native stream of the poet, Arthur
Johnstone of Caskieben, who has celebrated its
beauties in several of his Latin poems. It is also
the subject of a beautiful old ballad, now very scarce,
but formerly very popular, and known to have pow-
erfully affected a Scotch regiment in India, — be-
ginning :
'■O an I were where Gadie rins,
'Jiang; fragrant heath and yellow whins,
Or brawlin down the bosky linns,
At the back o' Bennochie."
GAICK FOREST, a wild alpine tract, abounding
in deer, and presenting pieces of grandly romantic
scenery, but containing no wood, except some scat-
tered birch copse, in the parish of Kingussie, district
of Badenoeh, Inverness-shire.
GAIRDEN, or Gairn (The), a rivulet of the
Highlands of Aberdeenshire. It rises on the east
end of the alpine Benaven, in the parish of Braemar,
adjacent to the boundary with Banffshire; and runs
about 20 miles sinuously eastward and south-east-
ward, along the northern border of Braemar, and
through the Glengairden district, to a confluence
with the Dee, at a point abou£ li mile above the
bridge of Ballater. Its mean breadth is about 10
yards; its mean depth, about 18 inches; and its
mean velocity somewhat greater than that of the
Dee. The road from Aberdeen to Castleton of Brae
mar, is carried over it, near its mouth, by the bridge
of Gairden.
GAIRIE (The), a rivulet of Forfarshire. It
rises about a furlong north-west of the town of Kir-
riemuir; flows round the town, at that distance, on
three sides ; and, after a serpentine course of 2 miles
from its origin, assumes a southerly direction. Two
miles farther on, it receives a small tributary on its
left bank ; then runs half-a-mile due east ; then re-
sumes its southerly direction, receives § of a mile
onward a considerable tributary from the west, and,
at the point of confluence, passes into the parish of
GAIELOCH.
702
GAIRLOCH.
Gtlainmis ; and finally, after a further run of about a
mile, falls into Dean water, on the boundary of the
parish of Kinnettles.
GAIELOCH, a parish, containing the post-office
station of Gairloch, and the post-office village of
Poolewe, on the west coast of Eoss-shire. It is
bounded, on the north, by the river Greinord, which
separates it from the parish of Loehbroom ; on the
east, by the summit-line of mountains which divides
the waters flowing to the eastern sea from those
flowing to the west; on the south, by Loch Torri-
don, which separates it from the parish of Apple-
cross ; and on the west, by the Minch or that part
of the Deucaledonian sea which divides the Scottish
mainland from the Outer Hebrides. Its extreme
length is 40 miles; its extreme breadth is 30 miles;
and its area is about 600 square miles. Its coast-
line is so indented by bays and sea-lochs as to have
an aggregate extent of from 80 to 1 00 miles ; and, ex-
cepting in the interior parts of the sea-lochs, is all
of a bold rocky character. The chief marine in-
dentations are Loch Greinord on the northern
boundary, Loch Ewe 5 miles farther south, Gairloch
still farther south, and Loch Torridou on the south-
ern boundary. See the articles Greixord, Ewe,
Gaikloch, and Torridon. There are numerous
small fresh water lakes, together with streams feed-
ing them or flowing from them; and there is one
large magnificent fresh water lake, highly admired
by all tourists and considerably known to fame,
called Loch Maree, whence flows the river Ewe.
See Maree (Loch). The scenery of both the sea-
board and the interior, variously beautiful, wild,
savage, romantic, and sublime, is not excelled in
aggregate picturesqueness by that of many parts of
the Scottish Highlands. Several summits and ranges
have a great height, one of them not less than 3,000
feet above sea-level; and besides forming grand
features in general pictures as seen from the low
grounds, they in several instances command superb
extensive views over a mixture of sea and land.
The surface, in an economical respect, resembles
generally the other parts of the sequestered High-
lands, abounding with hills which afford a scanty
pasture for sheep, and interspersed with glens and
vales which are tolerably fertile in favourable sea-
sons. About 5,000 acres are under wood. A very
fine embellishment is the park of Flowerdale, the
seat of Sir Kenneth Smith Mackenzie, Bart., of Gair-
loch, comprising a beautiful lawn, extensive planta-
tions, and a very steep frontlet of rock softly ring-
leted with young wood, the mansion itself being an
old-fashioned chateau, built about a hundred years
ago. Quartz rack and old red sandstone abound,
but gneiss and the metamorphic rocks akin to it are
predominant. There are various fisheries of salmon,
cod, and herrings. The landowners are Mackenzie,
Bart., of Gairloch, Mackenzie, Bart., of Coul, Mac-
kenzie of Seaforth, Mackenzie of Letterewe, and
Davison of Tulloch. Assessed property in 1860,
£6,849. Population in 1831, 4,445; in 1861, 5,449.
Houses, 1,042.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the pres-
bytery of Lochcarron, and synod of Glenelg.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £240; glebe, £30.
Una ppropriated teinds, £52 5s. 7d. Parochial school-
master's salary, £40, with about £4 fees. The par-
ish church was built in 1791, and repaired in 1834,
and contains 500 sittings. There is a government
church at Poolewe, which was made quoad sacra
parochial by the Court of Teinds in December, 1851,
and has assigned to it a district containing about
one half of the entire population. There is a Free
church of Gairloch: attendance, 750; sum raised in
1865. £203 8s. 4d. There is also a Free church at
Poolewe: attendance, 1,000; sum raised in 1865,
£121 9s. lid. There are eight non-parochial
schools,— all supported by religious communities
or societies.
GAIELOCH (The), an indentation of the sea, in
the parish of Gairloch, on the west coast of Eoss-
shire. It projects due eastward, or at right angles
with the general coast-line, and has a length of
only about 4 miles, with an average breadth of
about 2; so that it is not a loch in the ordinary
sense of that word, but a bay. Its name is sup-
posed to be derived from the Gaelic Gcarr, ' short,'
and loch; and to signify ' the Short loch.' It gives
name to the palish in which it is situated. Near
its head is a small island of the same name; and at
its mouth is a larger island called Longa.
GAIELOCH, or Gareloch (The), a picturesque
. branch of the frith of Clyde, extending between the
parishes of Eoseneath and Eow, in Dumbartonshire.
The frith coming down from the east, and ex-
panding its waters to the breadth of 3| miles, is
cloven, 2 miles below the longitude of Greenock, by
the peninsula of Eoseneath, and sends away the
Gareloch north-westward, over a distance of 7i
miles. The loch commences between the richly
wooded Castle-point of Eoseneath on the south, and
the smiling village of Helensburgh stretching along
the beach of Eow parish on the north; and is there
If mile bi'oad. A mile up, it is overlooked, on its
south side, by the tower of Eoseneath castle, peer-
ing out from an expanse of forest. On its north-
east side, nearly opposite, hut a little higher, it is
beautified by the turrets and plantation of Ardin-
caple. Here, having been gradually narrowed to
less than J of a mile, it suddenly expands to a
breadth of more than 1J mile. Three-fourths of a
mile onward, it is indented on the north side, over
nearly half its breadth, by a point, or, in Gaelic, a
Bhtte, which gives name to the parish along its
north shore. Here, 100 yards or so respectively
from its beach, stand on the one side the church of
Eoseneath, and on the other the church of Eow,
both nestled, but especially the former, in spots of
luscious beauty, and alluring tourists either to
their sites or to vantage-ground in their immediate
vicinity, for the beholding of scenery rich and bril-
liant in the combined attractions of highland and
lowland landscape. Near the Eow, or indenting
point, a long established ferry maintains easy and
frequent communication across the loch ; and hither,
during summer, the steamers — five or six in num-
ber— which ply between Glasgow, Helensburgh,
Eow, and Gairloch -head, career their way, curling
the blue water with their rough motion, and streak-
ing the canopy of usually fine-tinted clouds with
their dusky smoke. Upward, from this point till
within a mile of its termination, the loch has a
nearly uniform breadth of about § of a mile; and
then it contracts to three furlongs, and ends in a
slightly rounded angle. Though it receives alto-
gether the flux of about twenty rills, it has on the
south side so inconsiderable a breadth of land, and,
on the north side, is overlooked so closely upon its
beach by mountainous elevations, and, at its termi-
nation, makes so close an approach to Loch-Long,
that the streams do not average more than 1 mile
in length of course — the longest being 2i miles, and
about a moiety of them from A a mile to f. At its
termination it is geographically distant from Loch-
Long only 1£ mile; and both there and two-thirds
way down its north side, it is pent up by elevations
dressed, during the winter months, in snowy white,
and, during the rest of the year, in heathy brown.
But the hills, as they approach Helensburgh, sink
in their loftiness, and, coming more slopingly
GAIRLOCHHEAD.
703
GALA.
toward the shore, admit a freer space for the adorn-
ings of culture and plantation. On both sides of
the loch, the picture is, all the way, an enchanting
one of mingled beauty and romance; and both sides
are studded with a succession of cottages ornees,
villas, and mansions, which on the north or Row side
are thickly strewn almost to the head of the loch.
Eastward, too, or looking out from the loch, from
many commanding points of observation on its
beach, the sylvan headland of Ardmore, and the
lovely forms of the Renfrewshire hills, with the
watery expanse of the frith of Clyde glittering be-
tween, add luxuriantly to the attractions of the land-
scape. For a better appreciation of the scenery of
the loch, see the articles Rosexeatii and Row. The
water is generally clear, varies in depth along the
centre from 10 to 30 fathoms, and is little afleeted
in its saltness by the influx of rills, or the mixation
of the river-waters of the Clyde. The current of
the tide is strong, running from 3 to 4 miles in the
hour; and, owing to the projection of Row point,
and of some minor horns or headlands, is various in
its direction.
GAIRLOCHHEAD, a post-office village in the
parish of Row, Dumbartonshire. It stands at the
head of the Gairloch, adjacent to the boundary-line
with Roseneath, on the road from Dumbarton to In-
verary, 2 miles south-south-east of Portincaple
ferry on Loch Long, and 7i miles north-west of
Helensburgh. It is a pleasant place, -with neat
houses standing among garden-plots and shrubbery;
it melts off, on the south-east end, into the dis-
persed array of ornate dwellings which lines all the
Row side of the loch ; it has there a good inn and a
convenient wharf for steamers; and it vies with
many larger places on the Clyde as a loved resort
of summer sea-bathers from Glasgow. A neat
chapel of ease was built here a number of years
ago, and is in the presentation of the heads of
families. Population, 217. Houses, 32.
GAIKLOCHY. See Caledoxian Canal.
GAIRN (The). See Gaikden (The).
GA1ENEY (The), a small stream of the south-
west border of Aberdeenshire. It rises contiguous
to the Grampian water-shed with Forfarshire, and
runs about o miles north-eastward, through the for-
est of Glentanner, to a confluence with the Tanner.
GAIRNEY (The), a stream of Kinross-shire. It
rises in two small tarns amongst the Cleish hills;
one of them about a mile north-west of the ruins of
the old castle of Cleish; the other in a moss called
the Crook of Devon moss. These two rivulets unite
at Thratemoor, and then run in an eastern direction
by the foot of the Cleish hills, and crossing the
great northern road at the Bridge of Gairney, fall
into Loch-Leven, at a point about 2 miles distant
from Kinross, after a beautiful meandering course
through the rich meadow-grounds on the south-
western shore of that lake. Its total length of
course is about 9 miles.
• GAIRNEY (The West), a small stream of the
mutual border of Kinross-shire and Perthshire. It
rises in the Saline hills, and runs a few miles
through the parish of Fossaway, to a confluence
with the Devon, immediately below the Caldron
linn.
GAIRNEY-BRIDGE, a hamlet in the parish of
Cleish, Kinross-shire. It stands on Gairney water,
and on the great road from Edinburgh to Perth, 2^
miles south-south-east of Kinross. Here one of the
earliest presbytery meetings of the Fathers of the
Secession church was held; and here the young
poet Michael Bruce taught a small school.
GAIRNSIDE. See Gkesmuick.
GAIRSAY, an island belonging to the parish of
Evie and Rendall in Orkney. It lies about lj mile
east of the nearest part of the Orkney mainland,
and 1 J mile north-west of Shapinshay. It is about
2 miles long, and one broad. The greater part of
it consists of a conical hill of considerable altitude.
The whole of its west side is steep; but towards the
east, it is both plain and fertile; and in that quarter,
as well as on the south, the lands arc well culti-
vated. Close by the south shore stand the remains
of an old house which seems formerly to have pos-
sessed some degree of elegance and strength, and
was the residence of Sir William Craigie. Here is
a small harbour, called the Mill-burn, perfectly
secured on all sides by the island itself, and by a
small holm, which covers the entrance to the south,
leaving a passage on each side of it to the anchor-
ing-gvound. Population in 1841,71; in 1851,41.
Houses, 7.
GAIT (Loch). See Gai.stok.
GALA (The), a river of Edinburghshire, Selkirk-
shire, and Roxburghshire. It rises among the
Moorfoot hills, between Rutherlaw and Huntlaw on
the northern boundary of the parish of Heriot, and,
after flowing 2 miles due east, receives from the
north a tributary equal in importance to itself, and
suddenly bends round to the south. This direction
it maintains, with the exception of constant sinu-
osities, till it reaches the limits of Edinburghshire;
and then it begins to ran toward the south-east.
The country around it, at the place of its assuming
the southerly direction, and for 1 i mile further, is
moorish upland, considerably reclaimed and culti-
vated, but bleak and cheerless in aspect. But now
Heriot water is coming down from the west, mak-
ing so coquetish an approach as to run § of a mile
nearly alongside of the Gala before consenting to a
union; and it opens so distant a view among the
hills, and comes flaunting onward in so pleasing a
valley-dress, as very delightfully to diversify the
scenery. The Gala, having already for about a
mile touched or bounded Stow parish, now enters
it and begins to traverse its whole length over a
distance of 11 miles. Throughout this long part of
its course, it is pastoral, romantic, and by turns,
wild, enchanting, and picturesque. Hills of con-
siderable height, and endlessly deversified in ap-
pearance,— now stony and menacing, now heathy
and sad, now verdant and joyous, — occasionally
bold and precipitous, but generally sloping and of
soft outline, — close in its vale on both sides, seldom
allowing haughs broader than J of a mile for the
deposit of its alluvial wealth and the indulgence of
its meandering frolics, and in one or two places
forcing it into detours within nearly the narrow
limits of a gorge. On leaving Stow parish or Edin-
burghshire, the river altogether relaxes its severer
features; and thenceforth, but especially above and
around Galashiels, wears dresses of much natural
beauty and considerable variety, combined with a
large amount of tasteful decoration. It falls into the
Tweed a few hundred yards below Abbotsford, and
about 2J miles above Melrose. From the point of
its leaving Edinburghshire all downward, with one
trivial exception, it divides Roxburghshire on its
left bank from Selkirkshire on its right; and from
its source to its embouchure, it traverses altogether
a distance of about 21 miles. While passing along
the parish of Stow, it receives from the west the
important tribute of Luggate water, and from the
east the considerable tributes of Armet water,
Cockum water, and Stow burn.
The vale of the Gala is the only practicable route,
except with enormous circuitousness, from Edin-
burgh to Selkirkshire, central and western Rox-
burghshire, and the north-west of England ; and
GALASHIELS.
704
GALASHIELS.
though narrow in almost every part of its bottom,
with immediate steep ascents of its flanking hills,
it is ploughed so very sinuously by the river as to
offer only a serpentine route for any tolerably level
road, except such as should multitudes of times cross
it by embankments and bridges. Accordingly,
the great road from Edinburgh to Jedburgh and
Carlisle traverses it nearly from head to foot in con-
tinual windings, following closely all the more re-
markable sinuosities of the river; while the Hawick
branch of the North British railway goes along it in
such a series of viaducts and other works as looks
wonderful to the eye, both as an achievement of engi-
neering and as an artificial adjunct of romantic scen-
ery. Two ballads, the one ancient and the other
modern, celebrate " the lads o' Gala water;" and the
former holds language, not suitable for us to quote,
in allusion to the sinuousness of the river.
GALACHLAW. See Liberton.
GALASHIELS, a parish, containing part of a
post-town of its own name, in Selkirkshire and Rox-
burghshire. It comprehends the ancient parishes
of Bowside and Lindean, the former in Selkirkshire,
the latter in Roxburghshire. Bowside is nearly
pentagonal; having one side formed by the Gala,
two by the Tweed, one by the Tweed and Cadon
water, and the fifth, except for 1J furlong in the
middle, by two small lakes and two rills which they
send off respectively to the Gala and the Cadon.
It is thus very nearly an island ; and is bounded on
the north-east by Melrose, on the south-east by
Melrose and Lindean, on the south by Selkirk, on
the west by Selkirk and Stow, and on the north-
west by Stow. Measured in any direction from
side to side, it extends about 3 miles, and from angle
to angle about 3f . Lindean, or the Roxburghshire
part of the modern parish, marches over one-half of
its north-west boundary with the Selkirkshire part,
and is there divided from it by the Tweed ; and over
the other half of that boundary it stretches along,
and at one brief point overleaps Ettriek water, and
is conterminous with Ettriek parish. On other sides
it is bounded by Selkirk, Bowden, and Melrose. In
general form, it is a parallelogram 2J miles by 1J,
stretching north-westward and south-eastward; but
it sends off south-westward from its south-west
angle a stripe 1J mile long, and 3 furlongs broad.
The whole parish of Galashiels is hilly, and may
even be called mountainous ; one of its heights, called
Meigle, which overlooks the town, rising 1,480 feet
above the level of the sea, or 1,200 feet above the
level of the Tweed, at its junction with the Gala.
But the hills expand on wide bases, and have in
general rounded tops and a soft outline, and are
separated from one another by winding, narrow, and
beautiful vales ; and altogether present, both to the
eye of taste and to the hand of culture, gentle and
pleasing properties. Though patches of heath and
spots of rock occasionally variegate the surface, the
hills are green, and to a considerable extent arable ;
and even in one or two instances in which their
forms are conical, plantation and verdure adorn them
up to the very summit. The vale of the Gala,
which forms the north-east side of the pentagon of
Bowside, is in itself a mere rihbony stripe; but it
h as a beautiful and very broad edging of gentle ac-
clivity up the side of Meigle and other hills, and
besides being itself adorned with rows and tufts of
plantation, is confronted behind Galashiels with a
phalanx of trees 1 J mile long, and upwards of § of
a mile deep. The vale of the Tweed, which forms
half of the western side, and the whole of the south-
ern and south-eastern sides of the pentagon of Bow-
side, is all the way along richly wooded and bril-
liantly beautiful. Nothing more needs be said to
hint how fascinating its landscape is than to state
that its Galashiels side, and the sylvan and varie-
gated slopes which come gracefully down upon it
from the heights behind, were the scene chosen as
the view from the front of his temple of taste by the
most graphic of all Scotland's poets or literary
painters, — Sir Walter Scott. Abbotsford house,
indeed, is not within the limits even of Lindean,
but it looks across the Tweed to the south-eastern
slopes of Bowside, from a delightfully picturesque
site J of a mile above the confluence of the Gala and
the Tweed; and, with its rich and very broad cinc-
turing of plantation — part of which stretches into
Lindean — flings over the landscape of the parish
enchanting influences of no common power. The
rivers abound in salmon, in trout of very large size,
and in sea-trout, bull-trout, par, and eels. At the
northern verge of Lindean is a small lake named
Cauldshiels, about 1J mile in circumference, opu-
lently planted on one side, and bleak and wild on
the other, and deep, bedded with marl, and abound-
ing in pike and perch.
The soil, while very various throughout the parish,
is, in the aggregate, surprisingly different on the
two sides of the Tweed. In Bowside it is in general
deep, heavy, cold, and wet, on a bottom of clay or
of rock : in some places it is perfectly red, and oc-
casionally interrupted with ironstone; in other places
it is very porous, yet not sandy or superincumbent
on gravel; -and, in various instances, it gives place
to morasses and loehlets which are productive of
peat and marl. In Lindean the soil is, in general,
dry and shallow, lying partly on gravel, extensively
on till, and occasionally on rock ; and it is almost
everywhere mixed witli a remarkably large pro-
portion of small stones ; and is believed to derive,
in some degree, from their power of reflecting heat
and aiding it to retain moisture, a fertility in excel-
lent and luxuriant crops, which, considering its
small depth, is truly astonishing. Nearly one-third
of the entire area of the parish is arable; nearly two-
thirds are unsuited to the plough, and chiefly cov-
ered with pasturage; and about 500 acres are under
plantation. The chief mansions are Gala house,
overlooking the Gala from a bower of groves, and
Faldonside delightfully situated on the right bank
of the Tweed, a little above Abbotsford. Traces of
two ancient camps and a stretch of Roman road are
visible. The parish enjoys great facilities of com-
munication, both by the public roads from the south
converging toward Edinburgh, and by the Hawick
and Kelso branch of the North British railway.
There are four principal landowners. The yearly
value of raw produce was estimated in 1833 at
£10,869 ]0s. 6d. Assessed property in 1865, £14,605.
Population in 1831, 1,534; in 1861, 3,379. Houses,
429. Population of the Selkirkshire section in 1861,
3,181. Houses, 395.
This parish is in the presbytery of Selkirk, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, Scott of
Gala. Stipend, £270 10s. 6d.; glebe, £28. Un-
appropriated teinds, £273 Is. 2d. The parish
church is a semi-gothic structure, with a square
tower, was erected in 1813, and contains about
850 sittings. The Free church is a recent com-
modious erection ; and the sum raised in connexion
with it in 1865 was £455 19s. Id. The United
Presbyterian church was built in 1844, and con-
tains 700 sittings; and it superseded one which
was nearly as old as the modern town. There are
in the part of the town which belongs to the parish
of Melrose a chapel of ease, a Free church, and an
United Presbyterian church. There are likewise in
the town five other places of worship for respectively
Episcopalians, Morrisonians, Baptists, Glassites,and
GALASHIELS.
705
GALASHIELS.
Roman Catholics. The salary of the Galashiels
parochial schoolmaster is £50, with £40 fees, and
£10 other emoluments. There are several non-
parochial schools; and two of them, nt Lindean and
Fernilee, have small endowments. The name Gala-
shiels means simply 'the shepherds' huts on the
Gala, ' — the word Gala or Gwala itself signifying
' a full stream.' The terms ' shiels ' and ' shiel-
ings' were very commonly used by the Northum-
brian Saxons to denote the temporary shelters of
shepherds; and are still currently employed by the
peasantry in pastoral districts, besides forming part
of the compound names of many localities. The two
ancient parishes comprehended in Galashiels were
for a long period perfectly distinct. The church of
Bowside anciently stood in a hamlet of that name,
about half-a-mile" below the junction of the Ettrick
and the Tweed. Lindean derived its name from the
British Lyn, signifying, secondarily, ' a river pool,'
and the Anglo-Saxon Dene, 'a valley;' and seems
to have been a very ancient parish. The body of
William Douglas, the Knight of Liddesdale, lay in
Lindean church the first night after his assassination
in 1353. The monks of Dryburgh probably obtained
possession of this church, and had it served by a
vicar; and, in Bagimont's roll, it figures as the
vicarage of Lindean, in the deanery of Teviotdale,
and diocese of Glasgow. But before the year 1640
it had ceased to be the parish-church, and become
supplanted by that of Galashiels.
GALASHIELS, a post-town, a centre of traffic,
and a seat of manufacture, partly in the parish of
Galashiels, and partly in that of Melrose, partly in
Selkirkshire, and partly in Roxburghshire. It
stands on the river Gala, 4 miles west-north-west
of Melrose, 6 north of Selkirk, 18 east-south-east of
Peebles, and 28 south-south-east of Edinburgh by
road, but 33i by railway. The original of it was a
village on the adjacent brae on the south side of the
Gala, and was simply an appendage of the baronial
seat of Gala; but, though still partially standing,
and even slightly renovated with new buildings, this
has, for a considerable period, been sinking gradually
into decay. The present town originated about 75
years ago, when the spirit of manufactures alighted
on the villagers, and brought them down to the margin
of the stream to avail themselves of its water-
power ; and it stands in not very unequal parts in
Selkirkshire and Roxburghshire, — the former part
being the more ancient, the latter the more modern.
The town, on the south side of the river, comprising
all Galashiels Proper, and a considerable portion of
the Roxburghshire section, consists chiefly of one
long bent street, and two shorter and newer streets,
the whole dotted round with detached buildings,
winged with drying and bleaching grounds, and
stretching along a narrow stripe of plain between
the river and the neighbouring heights. On the
north side the town is both more irregular in form
and less advantageous in site, ascending in clusters
or lines of building, from the margin of the river to
the transit of the Edinburgh and Jedburgh road, a
little distance up the face of the acclivity; and this
division has of late years undergone great exten-
sion, so that it now constitutes the larger part of
the entire town, and presents an appearance of much
spruceness and prosperity. The opening of the
Edinburgh and Hawick railway, also, with a con-
spicuous station-house here, has added new features,
and given a new impetus to extension and improve-
ment. The branch railway from Galashiels to Sel-
kirk, which was opened in 1856, was likewise an
important accession; and the railway from Gala-
shiels to Peebles, which was authorised in 1861,
will also be of much value.
The two divisions of the town were early united
by a stone bridge, an iron suspension bridge, and
an ingeniously constructed timber bridge, — the first
for vehicles and the other two for foot passengers.
But toward the end of 1853, the stone bridge was
found to be already becoming inadequate for the
traffic brought to it by the railway ; and a resolu-
tion was then taken to adopt measures for construct-
ing another, of much wider capacity and with bet-
ter levels. All the houses of the town arc built of
blue whinstone and slated. Though quite a manu
facturing-place, Galashiels partakes not a jot of the
dinginess, and the confusion, and the concentration
of character upon mere labour and gain, which so
generally belong to places of its class; but is lively
and mirthful in its appearance, heedful of the adorn-
ings of taste and beauty, and seems to reciprocate
smiles of gladness with the charming scenery amid
which it is embosomed. The spirit of manufacture
is no doubt here, and walks abroad in an energy
which contrasts strongly with the sickliness of its
nature and the feebleness of its movements in many
other localities ; but it breathes a mountain air, and
has the dress and the habits far more of rural than
of city life. The factories being worked for the
most part by water-power, — the grounds attached
to them being painted over with the many coloured
fabrics which are hung out to complete the process
for the market, — the dispersedness of the seats of
stir and activity at considerable intervals along the
banks of a pastoral stream, — the beauty and light-
ness of the materials with which the town is con-
structed,— and the picturesqueness and pastoral tone
of the landscape which sweeps around, — all contri-
bute to protect Galashiels from being defiled with
the sootiness, or wasted down into the cadaverous-
ness, of most other seats of manufacture. In 1832
there were here ten large cloth factories, some of
them of considerable date, and two of them quite
new ; and at present there are twelve factories,-
all propelled by water, except two, which employ
steam as an auxiliary power.
Galashiels has a brewery and establishments for
the tanning of leather, the dressing of skins, and the
construction of machinery for woollen manufacture.
It also conducts considerable trade in the produc-
tion and sale of hosiery. But its grand staple is
the manufacture of woollen cloth. Though inferior
in population or in amount of produce to Hawick, it
is second to no town in Scotland in the excellence
of its woollen fabrics, or in the ingenuity and suc-
cess of effort to improve the quality and extend the
range of its staple. For a considerable series oi
years, it was known for the production of woollen
cloths of only the coarser kinds, fabricated from
home-grown woollen ; but, for a number of years
past, it has run an increasingly successful course of
effort to produce, from foreign wool, cloth of the
finer qualities, and has even commenced a rivalry
with the choice broad-cloth manufactories of Eng-
land. By the mixation of home and foreign wool, it
also produces flannels which the board of Trustees,
a number of years ago, pronounced finer than any
made elsewhere in Scotland, and equal if not supe-
rior to the best .made in AVales. A large proportion
of the home-grown wool is smeared, in order to be
fabricated into an improved coarse cloth. Yarns,
blankets, shawls, plaids, narrow cloths, grey or
mixed coloured crumb-cloths, and blanket-shawls of
many hues and changeful patterns, are the forms
into which home-grown wool alone, or in mixture
more or less with foreign wool, is made to assume.
In 1833, according to the statement in the New
Statistical Account, the annual consumption of wool
amounted to 21,500 stones at 24 lbs. imperial to the
2 Y
GALASHIELS.
706
GALASHIELS.
stone; of which 21,000 were home grown, and 500
were foreign. But since that period, not only has
the aggregate consumption greatly increased, but,
in consequence chiefly of the success of the broad-
cloth manufacture, the proportion between foreign
and home wool is exceedingly changed in favour of
the foreign. We need come no farther down than
1833, however, in order to see the prosperous con-
dition of the manufacture of the town ; for instead
of the 21,500 stones of wool which were then con-
sumed, there were in 1792 — when the old Statistical
Account was published — only 2,916 stones; and in
1744, the still more paltry amount of 722 stones.
Yet in 1792, the Rev. Mr. Douglas, the minister of
the town and parish, reported, "The manufacture
of coarse woollen cloth is here carried on to great
extent. It has rapidly increased within these few
years, and is now brought to great perfection." All
the weaving, with trivial exceptions, was formerly
done in factories, but is now performed chiefly in
shops built in their immediate vicinity. The spin-
ning of the yarn is done in the factories. The total
number of looms in 1828, was 175; and in 1838, it
was 265. At the great exhibition of the industrial
pi-oducts of nations in 1851, Galashiels took four
prize medals for the excellence of its woollen manu-
factures.
Excepting its churches and its factories, Gala-
shiels makes no remarkable display of public buildings
or indication of industrial skill. Even its shops are
few and tiny compared with either its population,
its relative position in the country, or its manufac-
turing importance. Its streets, in fact — during the
hours of labour in the factories — have the silence
and timidity and wealthless aspect almost of a vil-
lage in the Highlands. Its markets also are defunct,
and its fairs — held on 8th July and 8th October —
feverish and wasted. Manufacture, in its most
athletic form, alike heedless of the luxuries and un-
hurt by the malign influences of what passes for
refinement, is almost the sole tenant of the place.
The town has branch offices of the National Bank
of Scotland, the Bank of Scotland, and the Royal
Bank of Scotland, a savings' bank, several in-
surance agencies, friendly societies, two public
libraries, a mechanics' institute, a weekly news-
paper, and a total abstinence society.
Galashiels, for some period after its erection, was
subject to such fearful inundations of the Gala, that
occasionally a boat was brought from 2 miles distant
on the Tweed for the rescue of its people ; and even
yet, it at times is exposed to considerable risk, or
even sustains actual damage. The Gala sweeps
past it with a rapidity of current and an amount of
descent which render its power of vast worth in
driving the machinery of the factories, but which,
i f due means of resistance were not provided, would
occasion, in a flood, the sapping and possibly the
total destruction of the town. But the bed of the
stream has of late been quarried and excavated for
building materials, and has, in consequence, received
greatly enlarged capacity for conveying along a
swollen volume of water. Strong bulwarks, called
' puts,' have also been constructed along the banks
of the stream, and serve to repress its riotousness
when in a surfeited and turbulent mood. Yet strong
as the bulwarks are, the river is in hazard of becom-
ing energetic enough to toss them from its path;
and whenever it makes an impression on them, it so
violently menaces the mills and other buildings on
its margin, that all hands are at work to prevent if
possible its eruption. But if all efforts be unsuc-
cessful and the work of destruction have begun, the
persevering and hardy townsmen are ready to brave
the invading and impetuous foe on its own territo-
ries, and in groups or bands of several scores strong,
to drag branching full-grown fir-trees into the more
quiescent waters on the exterior of the flooded
ground, to make fast the trunks at points where the
stream is comparatively gentle, and to toss the
branches upon the margin of the central and career-
ing current. By a sufficiently frequent repetition
of this process so as to form a bushy wall or ram-
part of tree upon tree, they can effectually succeed
in averting danger even though the regular bul-
warks should be broken down; but in 1829 — the
year so memorable for Scotland's asserting its char-
acter as 'the land of the mountain and the flood,1
when Morayshire, in particular, was so fearfully de-
vastated by inundations, — Galashiels might have
been all but utterly destroyed had not an astute
spectator, amid general looks of despair, suggested
for the first time, the trial, which was immediately
effective, of encountering the torrent with an array
of felled trees.
Though Galashiels, both topographically and in
dustrially, is strictly one town, yet, politically con-
sidered, it consists of three distinct portions. The
first is the town of Galashiels Proper, situated in
Selkirkshire, the tenure of which is leasehold, in
leases of 99 years, renewable in perpetuum. The
second, situated in Roxburghshire, but on the south
side of the Gala, and compact or contiguous with
the former, is called Darlingshaugh, and consists of
feus, holding, with few exceptions, of the same su-
perior as Galashiels Proper. The third, also situat-
ed in Roxburghshire, but on the north side of the
Gala, is called Buckholmside, and consists of feus
which are held of a different superior, Mr. Pringle
of Torwoodlee. A burgh-of-barony, which includes
part of the town of Galashiels and a considerable
agricultural district, was erected by a charter, dated
9th June, 1630. There is no property, revenue, ex-
penditure, debt, or taxation. The jurisdiction within
the barony is of the ordinary kind, the bailie hold-
ing his commission during the pleasure of the su-
perior. No courts have been held for upwards of a
century; and there is neither court-house nor gaol.
Those parts of the town which are not within the
barony, are subject only to the jurisdiction of the
county. The weavers were incorporated by a seal
of cause from the superior, but enjoy no exclusive
privileges. The manufacturers also are calledacorpo-
ration ; butthey do not possess a seal of cause. Trace
and manufactures are in all respects free. Circuit
sheriff small debt courts for the Selkirkshire district
are held on the first Tuesday of February, April,
June, August, October, and December. Population
of the whole town in 1831, 2,100; in 1861,6,433.
Houses, 680. Population of the parts in Selkirk-
shire in 1861, 2,802. Houses, 335.
The earliest notice of Galashiels — which like every
other, till a very modem date, refers, of course, not '
to the present town but to the extinct aboriginal
village — occurs in Lord Hales' Annals, and is wholly
confirmed and partly amplified by tradition. In 1 337,
during the reign of David II., a party of English
invaders halted at Galashiels in the course of a re-
treat from a vain effort to raise the siege of Edin-
burgh. The season being autumn, and the little
army not thinking itself pressed to make a hurried
passage across the Tweed, the soldiers began to
straggle about the neighbourhood in search of wild
plums with which it then abounded. A party of
Scotch now came up, and learning the position of
the foe, rushed down upon them in contemptuous
feeling for their employment, took them by surprise,
drove them headlong to a spot on the Tweed, still
called " the Englishmen's syke," nearly opposite
i Abbotsford. and there hewed them clown with tlie
GALDRY.
707
GALLOWAY.
sword almost to a man. The people of the village,
in self-gratulation of an exploit which had been a
sourer fruit to the invaders than any they went in
search of, called themselves the " Sour Plums o'
Galashiels," and transferred the soubriquet to their
successors, and are celebrated by it in a Scottish
song of high antiquity, and even bequeathed it as
the quaint and sarcastic motto of the armorial bear-
ings of the burgh. So early as 1622, the old village
must have been a place of considerable note ; for
the report by the Lords of Commission for the Plan-
tation of Kirks, dated in that year, says, "that there
lived about 1,400 people in Galashiels." A tradition
prevails in the district that the village was an-
ciently a royal hunting-station. An old rudely-
built square tower, two stories high, called the Peel,
and supposed to have been the lodge in which
Royalty found an occasional temporary abode, was
pulled down only about forty years ago, to make
way for the enlargement of the parish school-house.
GALDRY, a village in the parish of Balmerino,
3J miles south-west of Newport, in Fifeshire. It
stands on a tableau, on the centre of a ridge of Mil,
about 1J mile from the Tay. It is a station of
the county police. Population 335. Houses, 71.
GALLANGAD. See Kilmakonook.
GALLAN-HEAD. See Uig.
GALLATON, a large village in the parish of
Dysart, Fifeshire. It commences at the north end
of Sinclairtown, and extends thence along the road
from Kirkcaldy to Cupar, adjacent to the transit of
the Edinburgh, Perth, and Dundee railway. It is
divided into Easter and Wester Gallaton ; and it has
schools of its own, and partakes generally in the
industry, institutions, and resources of Sinclairtown
and Dunnikier. Its name was originally Gallows-
town ; and seems to have arisen either from the
stated execution of criminals here in the feudal
times, or from the special execution of a noted rob-
ber 200 or 300 years ago. The village was long
famous for the making of nails. A fair is held on
the first Wednesday of August. Population in
1831, 1,053; in 1861, 1,198.
GALLOWAY, an extensive district, forming the
south-western comer of Scotland. Originally, and
for a considerable period, it included parts of Ayr-
shire and Dumfries-shire : but, during many ages
past, it has been identified simply and strictly with
the shire of Wigton and the stewartry of Kirkcud-
bright. The name, though thoroughly interwoven
with history, and incurably familiar to literary and
oral usage, designates no political jurisdiction, and
is unsanctioned by the strict or civil nomenclature
of the country. The district is bounded on the north
by Ayrshire and Dumfries-shire; on the east by
Dumfries-shire ; on the south by the Solway frith
and the Irish sea; and on the west by the Irish
channel and the frith of Clyde. Its greatest length
from east to west is 63£ miles, and its greatest
breadth from north to south is 43 miles. Its two
civil divisions, Wigtonshire and Kirkcudbrightshire,
are separated, from north-west to south-east, by the
river Cree and Wigton- bay. Its geographical dis-
tribution is into three parts, — Upper Galloway , which
includes the northern or mountainous sections of
Wigtonshire and Kirkcudbrightshire, — Lower Gallo-
way, which includes the southern or more cham-
paign sections of both civil divisions, east of Luce-
bay, — and the Rhinns of Galloway, consisting of
the peninsula south-west of Luce-bay and Loch
Ryan. Galloway has long been distinguished as an
excellent pastoral district ; and celebrated for the
superiority of its wool, and especially for its breeds
of horses and of polled black cattle. For further
particulars, and for topographical and other details.
see the articles Kiiikcuduuioiitsiuhe and Wioton-
shihe.
During the 5th century, the district afterwards
called Galloway was inhabited by the immediate
posterity of the British tribes, the Sclgova;, the
Novantes, and the Damnii, a feeble and a divided
people. The Anglo-Saxons rather overran than
colonized the territory; yet, during the 6th and 7th
centuries, they sufficiently mixed with the British
tribes to maintain a rude ascendency. When the
Northumbrian dynasty became extinct at the close
of the 8th century, the Saxon settlers, while they
retained their possessions, were denuded of their
power. Colonists from the Irish coast could, in such
circumstances, make an easy descent upon the
country, and effectually overawe its inhabitants.
Whatever may have been the defeats of earlier ad-
venturers, the Irish Cruithne, at the end of the 8th
century, made a successful settlement within the
Rhinns. Fresh swarms followed from the Irish
hive, during the 9th and 10th centuries ; and were
strengthened by settlements of the kindred Scots of
Kintyre, who passed the frith of Clyde in their cur-
raghs to the Rhinns and Carrick and Kyle ; while
the Scandinavian sea-kings domineered over the
seas and shores of the neighbouring regions. These
Gaelic settlers, in their progress of colonization and
promptitude of contest, acquired, in the low Latin-
ity of the times, the appellation of Galii, which was
thought to he a fair representative of their proper
name Gael. Hence as we may learn from Malms-
bury, " Galii veteribus Gallwalia;, non Franci dicti."
As Scotland and England took their names respec-
tively from the Scots and the Angles, so the terri-
tory of the Gael or Galii, came speedily to be called,
by chroniclers, Gallwalia, Gallawidia, Gallowagia,
Gallwadia, Gallwegia, Gallway, Galloway. In the
effluxion of three centuries, the name came to be
applied loosely to the entire peninsula between the
Solway and the Clyde, including Annandale in the
south-east, and most of Ayrshire in the north-west.
The Gael, or Galii, or Irish settlers, in the mean-
while, completely occupied the ample extent of the
country; mingling everywhere with the enfeebled
Britons, whose speech they understood, and amal-
gamating with the still fewer and feebler Saxons,
whose language, as it was unknown to them, they
constantly rejected; and they hence imposed upon
the district a topographical nomenclature which
corresponds much more closely with that of Ireland,
than with that of other districts of Scotland. Not-
withstanding the naval enterprises of the northmen,
the incursions of the Northumbrian Danes, and not
a few internal distractions among conflicting tribes,
the settlers retained, in their new possessions, the
various rights of a distinct people, and preserved
the agreeable independence of their own customs
and laws.
During the earlier parts of the obscure history ol
the district, we hear seldom and in uncertain terms,
of the rulers or '-lords of Galloway," who claimed
and exercised power within the invidious limits of
a contested jurisdiction. But, in 973, Jacob, lord of
Galloway, was one of the eight reguli who met
Edgar at Chester. Fergus, another lord of Gallo-
way, and the most potent feudatory subject of the
Scottish crown in the 12th century, was a frequent
witness to the charters of David 1., and, supposing
Malcolm I~V. to be a pusillanimous character, de-
nied his authority and appropriated his revenues.
Malcolm, enraged by Fergus' infidelity and daring,
marched into his territory, and, though twice re-
pulsed and discomfited by him, eventually, in 1160,
overpowered him, obliging him to resign his lord-
ship and possessions to his sons and to retire to the
UALLOWAY.
708
GALLOWAY.
abbey of Holyrood, far gone in the disease of cor-
roding humiliation and a broken heart. Fergus was
son-in-law to Henry I., and dying next year, left
behind him a family who afterwards ranked high
among the nobles of Scotland and of England.
His two sons, Uchtred and Gilbert, who, like the
lords of other Gaelic districts, owed obedience to
the Scottish kings, followed William the Lion, in
1174, into England; hut they no sooner saw him
taken captive, than, at the head of their naked,
nimble, impatient, and rapacious clans, they returned
to their native wilds, broke out into insurrection,
attacked and demolished the royal castles, fmd mur-
dered the Anglo-Normans who had settled among
their mountains. No sooner had they established
their independence of the Scottish government, than
they began to dispute about pre-eminence and pos-
sessions. Gilbert, on the 22d of September, 1174,
attacked Uchtred, while residing in his father's
house in Loch-Fergus, and, having overpowered
him, ordered the infliction upon him of a barbarous
death. William the Lion, having, in 1175, made
submission to the English king, and regained his
liberty, invaded Galloway, subdued Gilbert, and
purchased his subsequent peacefulness of conduct
by giving him full possession of Carrick in Ayrshire.
From this Gilbert sprang, in the third generation,
Marjory, Countess of Carrick, in her own right, the
wife, in 1271, of Robert de Bruce, and the mother,
in 1274, of the royal Bruce, the restorer of the Scot-
tish monarchy. Gilbert dying the 1st of January,
1184-5, Roland, the son of the murdered Uchtred,
seized the favourable moment of his uncle's death,
to attack and disperse his faction, and to claim pos-
session of all Galloway as his own inheritance ; and
he, at the same time, overcame Gilcolm, a potent
freebooter who had settled in the district, and earned
his depredations into Lothian. Making successful
resistance to Henry II. of England, who claimed to
be superior of Scotland, he was at last, on the con-
dition of surrendering Carrick to his nephew Dun-
can, the son of Gilbert, confirmed in the lordship of
all Galloway. On the restoration of the national
independence, Boland obtained the office of constable
of Scotland, and was witness of many royal charters.
In December, 1200, Alan, the eldest son of Boland,
succeeded him in his lordship, and afterward excel-
led him in power and fame; but, in 1234, he died
without a legitimate male heir, and left his preroga-
tives and possessions to become objects of division
and feud. Alexander II. wishing to invest Elena,
the eldest daughter of Alan, with the lordship, the
Gallowegians tumultuously demanded it to be con-
ferred on Thomas, his illegitimate son ; hut, though
they writhed under the chains imposed on them, and
twice became insurgent, they were compelled to
receive as their superior, Roger de Quincey, the
husband of Elena. Alexander II. 's enforcing the
rights of Alan's daughters, and, at the head of an
army, breaking down the spirit of insurrection, was
the introduction to the epoch of granting charters
for the holding of lands, and of landholders giving
leases to tenants, and of the security of property and
the cultivation of the arts of husbandry. In 1254,
Alexander Comyn, Earl of Buchan, in right of his
wife, succeeded de Quincey, and laid the foundation
of his family's extensive connexion with Galloway,
till they were overthrown and expatriated by Bruce,
and of their introducing to the district the important
office of justiciary, which in some measure changed
the very nature of its jurisprudence.
The Gallowegians, during the wars of the succes-
sion, naturally sided with the Comyns and the Ba-
liols, and speedily shared in their disasters. When
John Baliol was obliged to resign his dependent
crown, Edward I. considered Galloway as his own:
and he immediately appointed over it a governor and
a justiciary, disposed of its ecclesiastical benefices,
and obliged the sheriffs and bailiffs to account for
the rents and profits of their bailiwicks in his ex-
chequer at Berwick. In 1298, Wallace is said to
have marched into the west " to chastise the men of
Galloway, whohad espoused the party of the Comyns,
and supported the pretensions of the English ;" "and
a field iu the farm of Borland, above the village of
Minigaff, still bears the name of Wallace's camp.
During his campaign of 1300, Edward I. marched
from Carlisle through Dumfries-shire into Galloway;
and though opposed first by the remonstrances, and
next by the warlike demonstrations of the people, be
overran the whole of the low country from the Nith
to the Cree, pushed forward a detachment to Wigton,
and compelled the inhabitants to submit to his yoke.
In 1306, Sir Christopher Seton, the brother-in-law
of Bruce, being captured in the castle of Loch Urr,
was carried to Dumfries, and put to death on the
gallows-hill of that town. In 1307, Robert I. marched
into Galloway, and wasted the country, the people
having refused to repair to his standard; but he was
obliged speedily to retire. In the following year,
Edward Bruce, the King's brother, invaded the dis-
trict, defeated the chiefs in a pitched battle near the
Dee, overpowered the English commander, reduced
the several fortlets, and at length subdued the entire
territory. Galloway was immediately conferred on
him by the King, as a reward of his gallantry; and
when he was slain in the battle of Bundalk, in 1318,
it reverted to the Crown.
When Edward Baliol entered Scotland to renew
the pretensions of his father, Galloway became again
the wretched theatre of domestic war. In 1334,
assisted and accompanied by Edward III., he made
his way through this district into the territories
north of it, and laid them waste as far as to Glasgow.
In 1346, in consequence of the defeat and capture
of David II. at the battle of Durham, he regained
possession of his patrimonial estates, and resided in
Buittle castle, the ancient seat of his family. In
1347, heading a levy of Gallowegians, and aided by
an English force, he invaded Lanarkshire and Lo-
thian, and made Scotland feel that the power which
had become enthroned in Galloway was a scourge
and a curse, rather than an instrument of protection.
In 1353, Sir William Douglas overran Baliol's terri-
tories, and compelled M'Dowal, the hereditary ene-
my of the Bruces, to change sides in polities.
After the restoration of David II. and the expul-
sion of Baliol, Archibald Douglas, the Grim, ob-
tained, in 1369, Eastern and Middle Galloway, or
Kirkcudbrightshire, in a grant from the Crown, and,
less than two years after, Western Galloway, or
Wigtonshire, by negociation from Thomas Fleming,
Earl of Wigton. This illegitimate but most ambi-
tious son of the celebrated Sir James Douglas ob-
tained, at the death of his father, in 1388, on the
field of Otterburn, the high honours and the original
estates of the house of Douglas ; and now, while
holding in addition the superiority of all Galloway,
became the most powerful as well as the most op-
pressive subject of Scotland. On an islet in the
Dee, surmounting the site of an ancient fortlet, the
residence of former Lords of Galloway, rose at his
bidding a castle called the Thrieve, whence the
radiations of his own and his successors' tyranny
shot, with a blighting and a withering influence,
athwart the surface of the whole country. His
usurpation seems to have struck with indignation
all who contemplated its magnitude and effects.
The power of the Douglases was so enormous, and
so exorbitantly applied, as to grind into powder tho
GALLOWAY.
709
GALLOWAY.
resistance and the influence of the subordinate
chiefs. About the middle of the 15th century, Wil-
liam, one of the line of Earls, upon some occasion
of pique with Sir Patrick M'Lellan of Bombie, the
sheriff of Galloway, besieged and captured him in
his stronghold of Raeberry, carried him off to Tlirievc
castle, and there ignominiously hanged him as though
he had been a common felon. The Douglases ex-
perienced some reverses, and were more than once
sharply chastised in their own persons, yet seemed
unable to learn, no matter how thoroughly incul-
cated, a single lesson of moderation ; and they con-
tinued to oppress the Gallowegians, to disturb the
whole country, and even to overawe and defy the
Crown, till their turbulence and treasons ended in
their forfeiture. James the ninth and last Karl, and
all his numerous relations, ran, in 1453, into rebel-
lion ; and, two years afterwards, were adjudged by
parliament, and" stripped of their immense posses-
sions.
Galloway now awoke from the haggard dreams of
a nightmare, and found itself in a state of annexa-
tion to the Crown. James II. immediately marched
into the district, and was everywhere received with
acclamations of welcome; and he garrisoned the
castle of Thrieve with his own troops, and, from a
seat of insufferable oppression, converted it into a
source of energizing influence upon the law. In
1461, Margaret, the strenuous queen of Henry VI.,
came with four vessels to Kirkcudbright, and was
honourably received. For some time after the fall of
the Douglases, Galloway was occasionally distracted
by the feuds of petty chiefs, familiarly known by the
odd name of " Neighbour Weir." Karly in the 16th
century, a deadly feud between Gordon of Lochinvar
and Dunbar of Mochrum, led to the slaughter of Sir
John Dunbar, who was then steward of Kirkcud-
bright. During the minority of James IV., Patrick
Lord Hailes, created Earl of Bothwell, ruled both
the stewartry of Kirkcudbright and the shire of Wig-
ton. During the turbulent minority of James V.,
another feud between Gordon of Lochinvar and
Maclellan of Bombie, led to the slaughter of the
latter at the door of St. Giles' church in Edinburgh.
In 1547, under the reign of Mary, the English arms
overran Eastern Galloway, and compelled the sub-
mission of the principal inhabitants to the English
government. After the defeat of Langside, Maiy
sought shelter in Dundrennan abbey, near Kirkcud-
bright, previous to her flight into England across
the Solway. The regent Moray immediately, in
June, 1568, traced her steps into the district to pun-
ish her friends ; and he enforced the submission of
some, and demolished the houses of others. In 1570,
when Elizabeth wished to overawe and punish the
friends of Mary, her troops, under the Earl of Moray
and Lord Scrope, overran and wasted Annandale
and part of Galloway. As the men of Annandale,
for the most part, stood between the Gallowegians
and harm, they expected to receive compensation
from their western neighbours for their service; and
when they were refused it, they repaid themselves
by plundering the district. In a happier age, the
bay of Kirkcudbright sheltered William III.'s fleet
on his voyage to Ireland.
Galloway gives the title of Earl, in the peerage of
Scotland, to the families of Stewart and Garlies. In
1607, Sir Alexander Stewart of Garlies was created
Lord Garlies; and, in 1623, he was raised to the
dignity of Earl of Galloway. In 1796, John, the
7th Earl, was created Baron Stewart of Garlies in
the peerage of Great Britain. The Earls of Gallo-
wav have very extensive possessions in the district.
GALLOWAY-HOUSE, the family-seat of the
Earls of Galloway on the coast of Sorbie parish, in
Wigtoushire. It was built about 95 years ago; and
though not remarkable for architectural magnifi-
cence, " forms part of a landscape truly beautiful
and grand. Garlieston bay is on the north; and
Kigg or Hunter's bay is on the south of it. From
its windows are seen the richest fields, an indented
coast, adorned with growing improvements, a clus-
ter of isles, and the lofty mountains of Cumberland
and Man, appearing at a proper distance. The
principal rooms are spacious, and the library is
stored with many thousand valuable volumes."
GALLOWAY (Mull of), a remarkable and well-
known promontory, forming the southern point of
■ the llhinns of Galloway, in the parish of Kirkmaiden,
Wigtonshire. It is an exceedingly bold rocky head-
land, 1 J mile long, and £ of a mile broad, stretching
from west to east nearly at right angles with the
eastern coast of the mainland, and connected with
the country behind it by a long isthmus, the sides
of which are indented with small bays called respec-
tively East and West Tarbet. The south and south-
west fronts of the promontory break down almost
precipitously into the sea, and are perforated with
caverns in which the billows, during a southerly
wind and a flowing tide, roll and tumultuate with a
reverberating sound resembling thunder. On the
promontory, in North lat. 54° 38', and West long
4° 52' from Greenwich, a lighthouse, erected in 1830,
displays an intermittent light, which alternately
blazes on the view during 2£ minutes, and suffers
eclipse during h a minute, and is seen at the distance
of 21 nautical miles. It is 21 miles north-north-
west from Point-of-Ayre lighthouse in the Isle of
Man, and the same distance, south-east by east,
from Copland lighthouse on the Irish coast. From
the balcony of the lighthouse are seen the alpine
summits of the Southern Highlands of Scotland, the
towering Paps of Jura, a far expanse of the Irish
sea, 90 miles of the coast of Ireland, the whole of
thelsleof Man, and the shrouded far-away mountain-
peaks of Cumberland, — forming altogether one of
the most magnificent scenes which Scotland, rich
and prodigal in the brilliance and variety of her
landscapes, spreads out for tutoring the taste, sub-
limating the feelings, and inciting or aiding the
heavenward aspirings other children.
GALLOWAY (New), a post-town, a royal burgh,
and the capital of the district of Glenkens, in the
parish of Kells, Kirkcudbrightshire. It stands on
the right bank of the Ken, at the intersection of the
road from Kirkcudbright to Ayrshire with that from
Newtown-Stewart to Dumfries, 17:1 miles north-east
by east of Newtown-Stewart, 19 north of Kirkcud-
bright, 25 west of Dumfries, and 38 south-east of
Ayr. It stands at the foot of an irregular ridge of
ground, in the vicinity of Kenmure castle, surround-
ed by as charming scenery as fancy can conceive to
exist in a wild country. But, though a place of
municipal dignity and relative importance, it is of
very inconsiderable size ; and, strictly viewed, is
nothing more than a mere village. Its entire bulk
consists of across street running 70 yards from east
to west, a main street running 150 yards from north
to south, and a scanty sprinkling of detached houses,
partly in a line with these streets, and partly on
their wings. At the centre or cross of the burgh,
is a building which serves as a court-house, sur-
mounted by a spire. Half-a-mile north, but not
within the royalty, the parish church of Kells, built
in 1822, lifts a neat stone front and tower into view.
Across the river, half-a-mile east, a stone bridge,
erected in the same year as the church, spans out
in elegant arches. The houses of the town are, in
general, low, ill-built, thatched with straw, and un-
comfortable in the interior ; but a few slated houses.
GALLOWHILL.
710
G ALSTON.
2^ or 2 stones high, are interspersed with the
humbler edifices. The main street is decently
paved, and kept tolerably clean. Little gardens
stretch out behind the houses, and are divided by
hedges, dotted occasionally with trees. Most of the
inhabitants possess also a small croft on which a
cow or two are fed, and a few bolls of potatoes and
corn are raised. A sort of suburb of the burgh, in
the form of detached cottages, called the Mains of
Kenmure, lies scattered to the east between the
town and the bridge.
New Galloway, say the commissioners on muni-
cipal corporations, " is very inconsiderable in its
extent and population, and has no funds or property
of any description. It was erected into a royal
burgh by a charter from King Charles I., dated 15th
January, 1629. By the charter it was declared
that the inhabitants should have power to elect a
council, consisting of one provost, four bailies, one
dean-of-guild, one treasurer, and twelve ordinary
councillors. But by the sett, as reported to, and
sanctioned by, the convention of royal burghs, on
15th July, 1708, the council was then declared to
consist of one provost, two bailies, one treasurer, and
fifteen councillors. From the records of the council,
for twenty years prior to 1831, it appears that only
18 members of council have been chosen, includ-
ing the provost and two bailies. The whole parlia-
mentary constituency, as enrolled in 1832, consisted
of 14 electors ; and, consequently, it is impossible
to supply from them a council of the present num-
ber. The whole revenue of the burgh, derived from
customs and small dues, consists of £3 8s. 2d., and
the average expenditure appears to be £1 13s. Id."
When Charles I., in the course of a conciliatory
visit to Scotland, lavished upon his principal Scot-
tish subjects such honours and bounties as he could
bestow, he attached Sir John Gordon of Lochinvar
to him, by giving him a peerage witli the title of
Viscountof Kenmure, andbycreatingthe royal burgh
on his estate. But no houses had then been built,
and no population settled down, on the site of New
Galloway. The spot, exulting in burgh-privileges,
and specially favoured by its lords, seems to have
soon attracted a few inhabitants ; but it never could
acquire any trade or manufactures, so that it pro-
bably was almost or altogether as populous a short
time after it was founded as it is at the present day.
Fairs are held on the first Wednesday of April and
August, old style. The town has a branch-office of
the Clydesdale Bank. Justice of peace courts
are held on the second Monday of every month,
and steward's circuit small-debt courts, on the 6th
of February, the 12th of April, and the 25th of Sep-
tember. The burgh unites with Wigton, Stranraer,
and Whithorn, in sending a member to parliament.
Parliamentary constituency in 1862, 17. Popula-
tion in 1841. 403; in 1861, 452. Houses, 91.
GALLOWHILL, any locality which was used
as a place of capital punishment in the feudal times.
No fewer than at least thirty localities in Scotland
continue to the present day to bear the name of
Gallowhill ; and a good many more, seemingly for
the same reason, bear the name of Gallowbank,
Galloweairn, Gallowgreen, or Gallowknowe.
GALLOW-LANE. See Doom (The).
GALLOWLAW, a village in the parish of Pan-
bride, Forfarshire. Population, 79. Houses, 22.
GALSTON, a parish, containing the post-town
of Galston and the village of Old Bridgend, in the
north-east corner of Kyle, Ayrshire. It is bounded
on the north by Irvine water, which divides it from
the parishes of Kilmarnock and Loudon in Cunning-
ham ; on the east by Avon water, which divides it
from the parish of Avondale in Lanarkshire; on the
south by the parishes of Sorn and Mauchline ; and
on the west by Cessnock water, which divides it
from the parishes of Riccarton and Craigie. In ex-
treme length, from east to west, it measures from
12 to 13 miles, and in extreme breadth, from north
to south, 4J miles; but it is extremely irregular in
outline, and contains scarcely 23 square miles of
superficial area. The surface differs widely in the
several districts ; but, on the whole, is a level varie-
gated with considerable hills. The most upland
portion is the eastern and south-eastern ; and there
it is, for the most part, carpeted with heath and
moss. Along the banks of the Irvine, over nearly
the whole length of the parish, is a stripe of plain,
covered with rich alluvium, and delightfully fertile
and well-cultivated. South of this plain, over a
distance of 2J miles, a very wide belt of forest
stretches east and west, and along with lesser belts
and clusters in other localities, occupies about 1,000
acres. About two-thirds of the whole parish are
arable, and about four-tenths are pastoral or mossy.
There are few places in the county in which im-
provement has made such rapid progress as Galston
moor. About 45 years ago, the whole presented a
bleak and sterile appearance ; but by the judicious
and enterprising spirit of the late Nicol Brown, Esq.
of Lanfine, the aspect of the whole is changed.
Well-constructed farm steadings, regular hedge-
rows, and healthful plantations now give beauty and
life to the scene ; and the ground that was once un-
productive is now bringingforthabundantly. Brunt-
wood-loch, in the south-west extremity, formerly
the resort of wild ducks and swans, has been rifled
of its ornithological wealth by agricultural improve-
ment, and made to contribute its bed for the growth
of the fruits of the earth. Loch Gait, at the eastern
extremity, once a sheet of deep water, abounding in
trouts and very large eels, and the chief source of
the Water of Avon, has become transmuted into a
marsh. A considerable proportion of the hills and
rising grounds of the parish terminate in whinstone
summits. The highest elevations are Distinct-Horn
and Molmont-hill, both in the eastern division, which
rise respectively 1,100 and 1,000 feet above the level
of the sea. Molmont-hill is arable to the top, and
commands an extensive and delightful prospect. A
spectator, standing on its summit, looks immediately
down on the windings of the Irvine, the town of
Galston, and the ancient seats of Cessnock tower
and Loudon castle, with their extensive woods ; he
surveys all Cunningham, most of Kyle, and a great
part of Carrick ; he sees, right before him, across
the frith of Clyde, the huge barometer of Ayrshire,
the mystic -lookingislandof Arran, shrouded at times,
and at times gorgeous and brilliant in its cloudy
drapery; and he even obtains, on a clear day, a
filmy view of the apparently sinking coast of Ireland.
The climate of the parish, though moist, is not
unhealthy; a frequent prevalence of high winds,
operating, it is believed, to prevent insalubrious
effects from very frequent falls of rain. About a
century ago all the fuel used in the parish was peats
from Galston moor, excepting a few coals, brought
in sacks on horses' backs, along almost impassable
roads, from Caprington near Kilmarnock. But now
coal-mines are extensively worked in the parish's
own western district, the dip of whose strata here is
north-west. Limestone and sandstone also have
been worked, — the latter of a kind suitable for pav-
ing and roofing flag. Agate and chalcedony fre-
quently occur on Molmont-hill, though seldom of a
character to be cut into gems ; and, in the channel
of Burn-Anne, at the west base of that hill, is found
the beautiful stone called the Galston pebble. On
the summit of the same hill were remains of a Druid-
G ALSTON.
711
UAMRIE.
ical circle, the whole of which has been destroyed,
originally about 60 feet in diameter. At Claymire,
liali'-a- century ago, an urn was dug up containing
several ancient coins ; at Waterhaughs twenty-two
silver coins were discovered; and, in 1831, in the
eastern part of the parish, a coin was found of Csesar
Augustus. At a place called Beg above Allanton
aie rude traces of an extensive Roman camp, where
the patriot Wallace, with only fifty followers, ob-
tained a complete victory over an English officer of
the name of Fenwick at the head of 200 men. Wal-
lace had several places of retirement in the uplands
on the eastern verge of the parish, and in those of the
conterminous parish of Loudon; and has bequeathed
to a hill in the former, and a hollow glen in the
latter, the names respectively of Wallace-hill and
Wallace-gill. The western part of Galston is tra-
versed by the great road from Kilmarnock to Niths-
dale ; and the northern parts enjoy ample facilities
of communication by means of the Newmilns branch
of the Glasgow and Southwestern railway. The
yearly value of the raw produce of the parish was
estimated in 1837 at £38,736. Assessed property in
1860, £16,475. Population in 1831, 3,655; in 1861,
5,254. Houses, 572.
This parish is in the presbytery of Ayr, and synod
of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Duke of Portland.
Stipend, £178 16s.; glebe, £15. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50, with £40 other emoluments. The
parish church was built in 1808, and has a spire
and clock, and contains 1,028 sittings. There is a
Free church: attendance 300; sum raised in 1865,
£133 6s. 8d. There is an United Presbyterian
church, which was built in 1797, and contains 547
sittings. There is also a Morrisonian place of wor-
ship. Blair's free school, for clothing and educating
103 children, is an elegant massive structure, with
a dwelling-house for the teacher on the ground flat,
and yielding him a salary of £50. There are likewise
in the parish two subscription schools at Woodhead
and Allanton, and an adventure school. The church
of Galston was anciently dedicated to St. Peter; and,
in 1252, it was granted to the convent of Red friars
at Fail, and continued in their possession till the
Reformation. Before 1471, a chapel was founded in
Galston, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary; and it
was upheld by an endowment for the support of a
chaplain. In 1578, the property of the chapel he-
longed, in right of its patronage, to Campbell of
Cessnock.
The Town of Gai.ston stands on the left bank of
the Irvine, at the point where it receives the waters
of Burn-Anne, 5 miles from Kilmarnock, 14 from
Cumnock, 14 from Ayr, and 39 by railway from
Glasgow. It occupies a low site, surrounded by
gentle rising grounds, and overhung on the north
by the woods and braes of Loudon. It has alto-
gether a very pleasing appearance; and it exerts a
considerable local influence in the midst of an opu-
lent productive district. A fine stone-bridge of three
arches communicates between it and the northern
bank of the Irvine. Loudon castle lifts its magnifi-
cent castellated pile into view, from amidst a rich
embowering of woods, about a mile to the north.
In the town or its vicinity are four corn-mills, a
lint-mill, a paper-mill, and two saw-mills. But the
chief occupation of the inhabitants iscotton-weaving.
The principal manufacture, during the years of the
hamlet-history of the place, was shoes for the mer-
chants of Kilmarnock or for exportation. But
when, in dependency on Paisley and Glasgow, the
weaving of lawn and gauze was introduced, it some-
what suddenly expanded the bulk of the hamlet,
gradually swelled it into a small town, and, for a
long period, gave it a healthy and athletic aspect.
The first loom for light work was set up in 1787;
but so early as 1792 the number of looms was about
40, and in 1828 it had increased to 460; but then
it received a check, so as to decrease in the
next ten years to 423. The town has a branch of
the Union bank, three insurance offices, and a total
abstinence society. There is a station for Galston
on the Newmilns branch of the Glasgow and South-
western railway. Fairs are held on the third Thurs-
day of April, the fiist Thursday of June, and the
last Wednesday of November. Near the town is
the "Patie's mill" of song. Population in 1831.
1,891 ; in 1861, 3,228. Houses, 311.
GALT-HEAD, a headland, forming the north-
western extremity of Shapinshay, 1£ mile east of
Gairsay in Orkney.
GALTWAY, an ancient parish, now incorporated
with the parish of Kirkcudbright, and forming the
central part of that parish. Its church-yard, sur-
rounded by a thriving plantation, is still in use.
The church and lands of Galtway belonged till the
Reformation to the prior and canons of St. Mary's-
Isle. See Kirkcudbright.
GALVAL-CASTLE. See Boharm.
GAMESCLEUCH. See Etteick.
GAMESHOPE LOCH, a lake, about 600 feet in
diameter, on the southern border of the parish of
Tweedsmuir, Peebles-shire. It lies in the centre of
the southern Highlands, within § of a mile of the
boundary-line with Dumfries-shire, and is probably
the most loftily situated loch in the south of Scotland.
It abounds in excellent dark-coloured trout. A
streamlet, called Gameshope bum, carries off its
superfiuent waters 6 miles northward to the nascent
Tweed.
GAMHAIR (The). See Gauir (The).
GAMRIE, a parish, containing the post-town and
seaport of Macduff and the fishing villages of Gar-
denston and Crovie, on the coast of Banffshire. It
lies in the district of Buchan, and is connected only
for a brief space, opposite the town of Banff, with
the main body of Banffshire. It is bounded on the
north by the Moray frith ; on the east by Aberdour;
on the south by King-Edward ; and on the west by
King-Edward, Alvah, and Banff. Its length east-
north-eastward is about 10 miles; and its breadth
is from 3 to 4 miles. The bum of Nethermill forms
the boundary with Aberdour ; the burn of Logie
forms, for several miles, the boundary with King-
Edward ; and the river Deveron, just before its in-
flux to the sea, forms the boundary with Banff
The interior is all drained by burns, some of which
run to the sea, and others to the Deveron, and most
through finely romantic dells or vales. Not a drop
of water runs into Gamrie from any other palish ;
but all its burns either rise within itself or merely
touch its boundary ; and several of them are emi-
nently interesting either for the fitfulness of their
course, the beauty of their falls, or the utility of their
water power. A saw-mill and several grain-mills
are situated on these burns; and one of them at
Melrose has two water-wheels on different stories
driven by a natural cascade. Near Macduff is a
mineral spring, called the well of Tarlair, which is
resorted to by invalids. On the hill of Troup, at near-
ly the highest part of the parish, in a hollow sur-
rounded by hillocks, is a tarn called the Standard
loch, which is a nightly resort of wild geese in
spring. " Not far from the house of Troup," says
the author of the Old Statistical Account of Gamrie,
"are three great natural curiosities. 1. A perpen-
dicular rock of very great extent, full of shelves, and
possessed by thousands of birds called kittywakes.
2. A cave, or rather den, about 50 feet deep, 60 long,
and 40 broad, from which there is a subterraneous
GAMRIE.
712
GAMRIE.
passage to the sea, about SO yards long, through
which the "waves are driven with great violence in
a northerly storm, and occasion a smoke to ascend
from the den. Hence it has got the name of Hell's
lam. 3. Another subterraneous passage, through
a peninsula of about 150 yards long from sea to sea,
through which a man can with difficulty creep. At
the north end of this narrow passage is a cave about
20 feet high, 30 broad, and 150 long, containing not
less than 90,000 cubic feet. The whole is supported
by immense columns of rock, is exceedingly grand,
and has a wonderfully fine effect, after a person has
crept through the narrow passage. This place has
got the name of the Needle's eye. There are in the
parish several tumuli." On the farm of Pitgair is
a very old ruin, with very thick walls, called Wal-
lace castle, but unknown to either history or tradi-
tion.
The coast of Gamrie is one of the grandest and
most picturesque stretches of sea-board in Scotland.
A rocky rampart, in some places perpendicular, and
in all precipitous, rises sternly up from the sea, to
the height of about 400 feet, and presents every-
where such features of strength and terror as make
it a fit monument of the tremendous convulsions
which in old times shook the world. Parts of it
are inaccessible to the foot of man ; and other parts
bend just enough from the perpendicular to admit a
carpeting of sward, and are here and there traversed
by a winding footpath like a staircase, which few
strangers have sufficient daring of heart or steadi-
ness of head and limb to ascend. The summits of
the rampart are a few furlongs broad, and variously
aEcend or decline to the south, and then terminate
in sudden declivities into glens and dells, which
run parallel with the shore; and they command a
sublime view of the ever-changeful ocean to the
north, and of a far-spreading expanse of plains and
woods, of tumulated surfaces and mountain-tops to
the south and west. Several great chasms cleave
the rampart from top to bottom, and look like stu-
pendous rents made by a stupendous earthquake ;
they yawn widely at the sea, and take the form
of dells toward the interior ; and they have zigzag
projections, with protuberances on one face corre-
sponding to depressions or hollows on the other.
All these ravines are beautifully romantic ; and the
largest of them, called the Den of Afforsk, is both a
gem of scenery, and a haunt of historical tradition.
Here stands the old church of Gamrie, alleged to
have been built on occasion of a fierce fight with
the invading Danes in the year 1004; and the fol-
lowing account of the place, and of the tradition re-
specting it, is from the pen of the parochial school-
master, Mr. Alexander Whyte, and appeared first
in the Aberdeen Magazine in 1832, and afterwards
in the New Statistical Account of Scotland: —
" It is not alone by the natural beauties of the
place that this scenery becomes a field peculiarly
adapted for the fancy to sport in. These green hil-
locks, grotesque knolls, rugged rocks, and deep
gulleys — these vales which have rested for centu-
ries in peace, were once the scene of deadly conflict;
for it was here that our far-off ancestors had to stem
the torrent of invading Danes; and this brook, now
meandering peacefully over the smooth pebbles,
once flowed red with the blood of the slain. That
green conical mound that tops the east bank of the
den, is the castle hill of Finden. It was garrisoned
with a part of the Scottish army stationed here to
watch the landing of the Danes ; a party of whom
effected a lodgment on the opposite bank, in the
place where the old church now stands. The
alarm was immediately given, and communicated
by means of fires on the mounds, which communi-
cated the intelligence rapidly through the kingdom,
and quickly brought up reinforcements. Still the
Scottish chief, the Thane of Buchan, considered the
issue of an attack rather dubious, and, in order to
add the enthusiasm of religion to that of patriotism
among his followers, made a solemn vow to St.
John, in presence of the whole army, to build a
church to him on the spot where the invaders were
encamped, on condition that the saint would lend his
assistance in dislodging them. The superstitious
soldiers, thinking this too good an offer for any
saint to reject, made themselves sure of St. John's
co-operation, and entered with alacrity into the
plans of their leader; who being now sufficiently
reinforced, sent a detachment round by the head of
the den, — and these, fetching a compass by the
south-west, succeeded in gaining possession of the
top of the hill, directly over the Danish main camp,
and by rolling down large stones upon the invaders,
obliged them to abandon it, and to make their
escape by the north-east brow of the hill which
overhangs the sea, where many were killed in the
flight; whence the place obtained the name of
Ghaemrie or the running battle, — modernized into
Gamrie. After being dislodged from the east, the
Danes formed a new camp, (where the entrench-
ments are still to be seen,) which still preserved
their communication with the sea, and also with
an extensive barren plain on the top of the hill.
Meantime the whole Scottish army, in fulfilment of
their leader's vow, set to work and built the church
on the spot where the Danes first settled, while
both parties were waiting additional reinforcements.
The Danes having been joined by a party of their
countrymen who had landed at Old Haven of Cul-
len, about four miles westward, made a successful
attack on the Scotch, and drove them back to the
castle-hill; and, in spite of St. John for assisting
their enemies, they polluted bis sanctuary by mak-
ing it a stable for their horses. By this time, how-
ever, the alarm had spread far and wide, and the
Scotch, pouring in from all quarters, not only forced
back the Danes to their old position on the brow of
the hill, but, getting possession of the whole
heights, and enclosing them on all sides except
that overhanging the sea, they again commenced
their murderous work of rolling down stones, while
the helpless Danes could neither oppose nor escape,
and then rushing down upon them, sword in hand,
the Scotch cut them to pieces to a man. The
Bleedy pots (Bloody pits) is still the name of the
place, which, being incapable of cultivation from its
steepness and exposure to the north blast, remains
to this day in statu quo. Besides the round, the
crescent, and variously angled figures in the ground,
the graves of the Danes are yet to be seen, sunk and
hollow, among the rank brown heather, green at
the bottom, and surrounded at the borders with
harebells and wbortle-berries, with fragments of
rock and large detached stones lying around, and
covered with moss."
The general surface of the parish is exceedingly
diversified by hills, dells, and precipices. About
1,000 acres are under wood; a vast extent of land
has been reclaimed during the last ten years ; and
now little ground lies waste except such as is too
steep or rocky to be ploughed. The soil varies from
a fertile loam to a barren benty heath. The rocks
have been the subject of very interesting papers by
several eminent geologists; and the principal one
has been regarded by some as belonging to the
greywacke group, by others as belonging to the
primary slates. The principal landowners are the
Karl of Fife and Campbell of Troup. Near the
eastern extremity of the parish is Troup house.
G ARAN.
713
GARGUNNOCK.
built about 80 years ago, a very tine baronial edifice,
now and for years past uninhabited. The real rental
of the parish at present is nearly £18,500. As-
sesed property in 1843, £12,120 0s. Od. The value
ot the fisheries last season (1856) was £25,490.
There are three saw - mills and two bone-mills.
Population in 1831, 4,094; in 1801, 6,086. Houses,
1,1(14.
This parish is in the presbytery of Turriff, and
■ synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£248 4s. 3d. ; glebe, £12. Unappropriated tenuis,
£441 6s. 8d. The parish church stands in the
Gamrie or eastern district of the parish, is a very
neat structure, built in 1830, and contains about
1,000 sittings. A chapel of ease at Macduff was
built in 1805 by the then Earl of Fife, who allowed
a small salary for the minister; and it is a very
neat building, with 858 sittings. There is a Free
church preaching station in the Gamrie district;
and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865
was £172 Is. 5d. There is a Free church at Mac-
duff, with an attendance of 400; and the sum raised
in connexion with it in 1865 was £288 9s. lOd.
There is an United Presbyterian church at Gar-
denston, with an attendance of 250. There are
two parochial schools, respectively at Gamrie and
at Macduff. Salary of the Gamrie schoolmas-
ter, £35, with a share of the Dick bequest,
£16 other emoluments, and £25 fees. Salary
of the Macduff schoolmaster. £35, with a share
of the Dick bequest and £35 fees. There are four
subscription schools and several other non-parochial
schools. There are likewise a good public library
and a savings' bank. The parish enjoys great faci-
lities of trade through Macduff and Banff.
GANNACHY BRIDGE. See Fettercairn.
GARACHAFvY (The). See Dee (The).
GAEAN, or Garaxhill, the name originally and
for some years given to the village of Muirkirk in
Ayrshire, and borrowed from the rising ground or
eminence on the face of which it stands, but long
since entirely discontinued in popular usage. See
Muirkirk.
GAEAN, or Garveelan, an islet 4 miles east
of Cape Wrath, and 1 mile from the shore, on the
north coast of Sutherlandshire. It is about 60 feet
high, and about 100 yards in diameter; and is a
crowded resort of sea-fowl.
GARAWALT (The), a small tributary of the
Aberdeenshire Dee, entering it from the south about
2 miles below the bridge of Invercauld. It is an
impetuous stream, with frequent cataracts and falls,
and displays some romantic scenery.
GARBET-HILL, a village in the parish of Cum-
bernauld, 3 miles east of the town of Cumbernauld,
Dumbartonshire. It has a school.
GAEBHMEAL, a mountain, of 3,280 feet of
altitude above sea-level, in the parish of Fortingal,
Perthshire.
GARBHREISA, the largest of five islets, stretch-
ing in a line south-westward from the southern ex-
tremity of the peninsula of Craignish in Argyleshire.
GARDENSTON, a fishing village in the parish
of Gamrie, Banffshire. It stands at the head of
Gamrie bay, on a site where the prevailing cliffs
of the coast make a slight recess from the water's
edge, 8 miles east-north-east of Banff. It was built
in 1720, and has ever remained nearly stationary
in amount of population. It has a tolerable har-
bour for the accommodation of fishing-boats and
small vessels. About 15 boats are employed in
haddock-fishing, and about 34 in herring-fishing.
The total yearly value of its fish is about £4,500.
Here is an United Presbyterian church. Popula-
tion, in 1861, 507.
GAEDERIIOUSE, a post-office station subordi
nate to Lerwick in Shetland.
GARDYNE. See Kirkden.
GARELOCH. See Gajri.och.
GARELOCHHEAD. See Gairi.ochiieao.
GARGUNNOCK, a parish, containing a post-
office village of its own name, in the north of Stir-
lingshire. It is bounded by Perthshire, and by the
parishes of St. Ninians, Fintry, Balfron, and Kip-
pen. Its length north-north-eastward is 6 miles;
and its breadth is 4 miles. The Forth, flowing in
remarkable sinuosities, and generally about 00 feet
broad and 12 feet deep, traces all the northern
boundary. The parochial surface is naturally dis-
tributed into compact districts of moorland, dryfield,
and carse. The moorland, comprising rather more
than one-third of the entire area, is part of the hilly
range which extends from Stirling to Dumbarton,
and down to about half-a-century ago, was esteemed
of no value except for its turf. But it was almost
suddenly discovered to be improveable as a prime
sheep-walk, and has passed through a series of
georgic operations which have wholly changed its
aspect and made it a moor only in name. From its
various uplands and northern slopes, magnificent
views are obtained of the luxuriant carse-lands be-
low studded with mansions and fretted over with
pleasure-grounds, of the singular scenes spread over
the moss of Kincardine by the noted improvements of
Mr. Drummond, of the foldings and windings of the
Forth as far as the eye can reach along its level but
luxurious bed, and of the range of varied and blue
mountain land which wends round the distant hori-
zon. Several rills, flowing from different parts
of the moor, and concentrating their waters into
brooks, fall over craggy precipices, and form cas-
cades which, after heavy rains, are seen and heard
at a great distance. A fine view of the slope of the
uplands, gemmed with the tinted froth and spray
of the cascades, is obtained at the west end of the
village of Gargunnock. The dryfield district slopes
gently from the moorland to the carse, and is car-
peted with a light sandy soil which quickly absorbs
rain. Till toward the end of last century, the dry-
fields, for the most part, lay waste and wild, over-
run with furze and broom, with scarcely a tree to
break the dull uniformity of their surface. But
headed by the proprietor of the estate of Boquhan,
and stimulated by his energetic and skilful example,
all the heritors united or rather vied in such efforts
of draining, ditching, hedging, planting, and other
improving operations, as speedily achieved a com-
plete change of both their aspect and their char-
acter. About a mile to the eastward of Leckie,
where the road from Stirling to Dumbarton passes
over a rising ground, the dryfields spread out before
the spectator in a shade of rich green beauty. The
tufted hill-slopes on the back- ground, — the glens
coming down in dresses of copsewood and of
regular plantation, — the village, the church and
manse, — the chimney-tops of Gargunnock-house,
just discerned above the wood, — the well-dressed
fields, some for pasture, and others for varioua
sorts of cropping, and all enclosed with dikes and
hedges in excellent repair, — form altogether a very
fine landscape. The carse-lands form a level stripe
along the Forth, and are believed to have all been
formed under water ; and they have exhibited, in
various places, beds of shells such as those which
are now in the frith of Forth. In later times they
seem to have been covered with part of what has
been called the Caledonian forest; and, at all events,
they afforded refuge, when the Romans were in the
neighbourhood, to the fugitive natives, and oc-
casioned the invaders no little trouble in denuding
GAKGUNNGCK.
714
GARLIESTON.
them of large trees. After the forest was cut down,
part of them — like the whole of those of Blair-
Druminond on which the celebrated improvements
were made — seem to have become moss; and toward
the close of last century, about two acres on the
property of Boquhan remained in the mossy con-
dition. They long lay almost in a state of nature,
unprofitable to the landlord, and repulsive to the
agricultural operator ; bad roads, the want of enclo-
sures, the stiffness of the soil, and ignorance of that
species of farming which was suitable to the dis-
trict, seeming to place insurmountable obstacles in
the way of improvement. But long before the 18th
century closed, the lands assumed an appearance
quite surprising to any one imperfectly acquainted
with the results of skilful experiments in husbandry ;
and now they everywhere bear aloft those luxuriant
crops of prime grain for which the carses of Scot-
land, particularly those of the Forth and the Tay,
are famous. The principal landowners are Moir of
Leckie, Campbell of Boquhan, Stirling of Gargun-
nock, and Graham of Meiklewood. The real rental
is upwards of £6,500. The entire extent of land
under wood is about 580 acres.
The glen of Boquhan, as seen from a road along
its east side, exhibits, on a limited scale, a most
romantic view; and as seen from the bottom, at and
near the field of Oldhall, displays " a scene perfectly
wild, as though nature were in rains." Gargun-
nock-house mingles the ornamental architecture of
modern times with the massive masonry of the age
of intestine feuds; presenting a fine front of recent
construction in combination with an east wing of
considerable antiquity, in which there is a sort of
tower, originally fortified by a high wall and strong-
gate. Leckie-house is a recently erected pile of
much elegance, in the old English baronial style,
commanding a superb view of the strath of Mon-
teath. Meiklewood-house is also a handsome new
mansion, among fine old trees. On a spot still
pointed out, near the north-east boundary of the
parish, about 50 yards from the Forth, stood ' the
Peel of Gargownno,' or Gargunnock, which Sir
William Wallace, with a few followers, took by
stratagem from an English party stationed there to
watch the passage of the Frew in its vicinity; and
about J of a mile westward are the remains of the
bridge of Offers by which Wallace crossed the
Forth, on his way to the moss of Kincardine. A
little south of the village of Gargunnock is an arti-
ficial conical mound called the Kier-hill, around
which are traces of a circular ditch and rampart,
and which, whatever was the date of its origin,
seems to have been the camp or post of Wallace on
the night of his exploit at the peel. A great
quantity of human bones, and some pieces of brass
armour and points of spears, were dug up 50 or 60
years ago on the lands of Boquhan, — the relics
probably of the battle of Ballochleam, which was
fought on the adjacent fields. The Forth and Clyde
railway, at present in course of construction, will
open up Gargunnock parish to the markets, and
create a transit traffic. Both the old road and the
new one from Stirling to Dumbarton pass through
the northern district of the parish. The village of
Gargunnock stands on the old road, about a mile
from the Forth, and 3£ miles east of Kippen. It is
a neat place, with little gardens, pleagantly situated
on the side of a rising-ground, whose summit sur-
veys nearly the whole parish, together with large
contiguous expanses of the gorgeous basin of the
Forth. It stands on the estate of Gargunnock;
and so does a distillery. A ' Gargunnock Farmer's
club' was instituted by General F. Campbell in
1796. and enriched, in 1807, by a bequest from him
of £o00; and it extends its benefits to 1 1 parishes,
including those of Stirling and St. Ninians, and
three in Perthshire. Population of Gargunnock
parish in 1831, 1,006; in 1861, 728. Houses, 145.
Assessed property in 1860, £7,724.
This paiish is in the presbytery of Stirling, and
synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, H. F. Camp-
bell, Esq. of Boquhan. Stipend, £155 Is. 9d.; glebe,
.£16. Schoolmaster's salary, £35, with £11 fees,
and £2 2s. other emoluments. The parish chinch
was built in 1774, and contains 500 sittings. There
is a Free church for Gargunnock and Kincardine:
attendance, 118; sum raised in 1865, £49 19s. lOd.
There are a private school and a parochial li-
brary.
GARIE (The), a streamlet of the western part of
Forfarshire. It issues from the Loch of Kinnordy
in the parish of Kirriemuir, and runs southward to
the river Dean, a little east of Glammis castle. It
formerly possessed considerable volume ; but has
been reduced to comparative insignificance by the
draining of the Loch of Kinnordy.
GAEIOCH, an inland district of Aberdeenshire;
bounded on the north-east and east by Formartin,
on the south and west by Marr, and on the west,
and north-west by Strathbogie. It contains 15l
square miles and 15 parishes. On account of its
fertility it used to be called the granary of Aber-
deenshire. The surface is rather mountainous and
cold — the district being at all events bounded on
every side by a range of hills, beginning near Old
Meldrum, and extending westward about 20 miles ;
but the valleys are warm and well-sheltered, and
from the salubrity of the air, they have long been
famed as a summer-resort for the valetudinarian.
This district gives name to the presbytery holding
its seat at Chapel-of-Garioch. Its resources were
greatly developed by the Inverury canal, and are
now likely to be developed still better by the Great
North of Scotland railway. Population in 183),
15,787; in 1851, 18,147. Houses, 3,327.
GAEIOCH (Chapel of). See Chapel-of-Gari-
OCH.
GARION-GILL, a mineral district in the eastern
part of the parish of Bothwell, connected by railway
with the Glasgow and Garnkirk railway, and with
the Monkland canal.
GARLETON HILLS, a ridge of hills of incon-
siderable height, but somewhat conspicuous appear-
ance, in East Lothian. They commence in the
western extremity of the parish of Haddington, be-
tween the town of Haddington and the frith ol
Forth, and continue their elevation for a few miles
eastward. To a spectator from Edinburgh, they
close up the view of the delightful vale of Hadding-
tonshire. Down their southern declivity run a few
belts of regular plantation. On one of their princi-
pal summits stands a monument to the memory of
John, Earl of Hopetoun. The Garleton hills are of
the porphyry series. The stone, as it occurs here,
has in general a basis of a largely foliated clink-
stone, enclosing crystals of felspar. In the line of
the ridge, at the abbey toll, about a mile to the east-
ward of Haddington, there occurs a large bed of
felspar tufa.
GAELIESTON, a small post-town and sea-port
in the parish of Sorbie, Wigtonshire. It stands at
the head of a bay of its own name, 5 miles north-
north-east of Whithorn, and 7 south-south-east of
Wigton. The main body of it bends in the form of
a crescent round the head of the bay. The houses
are built of whinstone, and have a neat, substantial,
and cheerful appearance. The town was founded
by John, 7 th Earl of Galloway, when Lord Garlies,
and in ten years had an accession of 34 houses.
GAliMOND.
715
GARNOCK.
Skirting it on the south are the fine plantations of
the Galloway demesne, overlooked at f of a mile:s
distance by the fine form of Galloway House :
which see. From nearly the date of its origin, the
town has had a rope and sail manufactory. It like-
wise carries on shipbuilding to a small extent.
Fishing also has been a busy but somewhat doubt-
ful employment. But the chief trade of the town
has connexion with its harbour. From the head-
land of Eagerness, Garlieston bay runs westward
into the land about lh mile; but from the opposite
headland, which is very near the town, it extends
not much more than half-a-niile ; and it is about
lialf-a-mile of average length. A considerable stripe
at the head is dry at low water. The small streams,
Broughton burn and Fontin burn, empty themselves
into the bay; and just before doing so, are spanned
by convenient bridges. The bed of the bay is a
deep soft clay, on which vessels lie in the greatest
safety, and have the best anchorage. The shore is
sandy and flat ; but at Eagerness point it is rocky
though not high, and on the north is overlooked by
some rising grounds. The bay opens out on the
Irish sea in the same direction as the gulf called
Wigton bay, pointing right forward to the centre of
the channel between the Isle of Man and the coast
of England; but it forms in reality a small wing or
indentation of Wigton bay, and, along with Fleet
bay on the opposite shore, serves to expand Wigton
bay from an average width of 4h miles, to a subse-
quent average width of 9 or 10. The water is of a
bright green colour, remarkably pellucid; and is
from twenty to thirty feet deep. The tide flows
direct out from Wigton bay six hours, and takes the
same time to return ; but in Garlieston bay it flows
five hours from the south and ebbs seven. Vessels,
in a fair wind, go hence to Whitehaven in four hours,
to the Isle of Man in three, to Liverpool in twenty-
four, to Dublin in twenty-four, and to Greenock in
thirty. The bay is admirably adapted to accommo-
date, in particular, the trade between Dublin and
Whitehaven, to which one tide is of great conse-
quence, and, in general, all the trade of the West
of England from Carlisle to Liverpool, of the east
coast of Ireland and the Isle of Man, and of the west
coast of Scotland to England and Wales. The har-
bour, naturally good, is now undergoing a great
enlargement, which will render it one of the best
in the south of Scotland. Regular communication
is maintained by steam with Glasgow and Liver-
pool. About 1 6 vessels, most of them less than 100
tons burden, belong to the port. Nearly the whole
exports consist of fish and agricultural produce;
and the chief import is coal from Cumberland. The
town has an Independent chapel and three schools.
Population, in 1S61, 6S5.
GARLPOOL BURN. See Evan (The).
GARMOND, a village in the parish of Monquhit-
ter, Aberdeenshire. It was built in the latter part
of last century. Population, 226. Houses, 66.
GARMOUTH, a small post-town and sea-port in
the parish of Urquhart, Morayshire. It is situated
on the left hank of the Spey, immediate! v above that
river's influx to the sea, 4 miles north of Fochabers.
It is chiefly of modem growth, and is neatly laid
out in regular streets, though some of the houses
are by no means of a first-rate character. It is a
burgh-of-barony, under the Duke of Richmond. Its
harbour is naturally good, but was severely damaged
by the great flood of 1829, and is always subject to
new shiftings and obstructions of ground from heavy
freshets of the Spey. The native timber trade of
the port was at one time remarkably great, from
the floating hither of cut trees from the forests of
Qlenrnore, Ahernethy, Rothiemurcus, and Glen-
feshie ; and it is still considerable, both for the ex-
port of the wood, and for the local building ol
vessels. The export trade in agricultural produce
also is considerable. The chief article of import is
coal. The number of vessels entering the harbour
in the year has in recent years ranged from 154 to
about 260. A fair is held on the 13th of June. The
town has a Free church, a subscription library, and
a branch-office of the Caledonian bank. The sum
raised in 1865 by the Garmouth Free church was
£228 9s. 8d. Contiguous to the town, in the
mouth of the Spey, is a valuable salmon fishery.
Population, in 1861, 802.
GARNKIRK, an estate and a seat of manufac-
ture, in the parish of Cadder, Lanarkshire. The
estate lies in the south-eastern part of the parish,
and comprises 1,457 acres. Its surface has a tame
appearance, yet contains 150 acres of wood. Vast
fields of fire-clay occur here, from 4 to 19 feet in
thickness, and equal if not superior to Stourbridge
clay. It resembles light-coloured sandstone in tint,
and has been found to stand a much stronger heat
than any other fire-clay known in this country. Its
composition is 53-4 per cent, of silica, 43'6 of alu
mina, 0-6 of lime, 1-8 of peroxide of iron, and 0-6 of pro
toxide of manganese; while that of the Stourbridge
clay is 72-516 of silica, 20-264 of alumina, 0'891 of
lime, 3-308 of peroxide of iron, 1-488 of protoxide of
manganese, and 1-533 of phosphate of lime. Exten-
sive works, with large neatly constructed buildings,
are in operation for the manufacture of this fire-clay
into vases, flower - pots, cans, crucibles, water
pipes, and other articles of remarkable elegance and
durability. The seat of the manufacture closely
adjoins the Glasgow and Garnkirk railway, now the
north fork of the Caledonian railway, at the Garn-
kirk station, 6J miles north-east of Glasgow. An-
other manufacture of similar character, but of
smaller extent, and with clay of less prime char-
acter, is adjacent to Heathfield on the estate of Bando.
Limestone also has been much worked on the estate
of Garnkirk.
GARNKIRK and GLASGOW RAILWAY. See
Glasgow akd Garskirk Railway.
GARNOCK (The), a small river in the district
of Cunningham, Ayrshire. It rises at the foot of a
very high hill in the moor called the Misty-law, at
the boundary between Cunningham, or the parish of
Kilbirnie, and Renfrewshire. During 5 miles it
flows south-eastward ; and then, during 2J miles it
flows due south ; intersecting over nearly the whole
distance, the parish of Kilbirnie, and, at the middle
point of its southerly course, sweeping past Kilbirnie
village. Having now entered the parish of Dally,
it flows 3J miles, including two considerable sinu-
osities, in a south-westerly direction ; and it then
resumes its southerly course, and flows 8 or 9 miles
through the parish of Kilwinning and between the
parishes of Irvine on the east and Stevenston on the
west, to the sea at Irvine harbour, contributing with
Irvine water to form the small estuary above Irvine
mouth, and performing some remarkably serpentine
evolutions before debouching from the plain. Im-
mediately after its origin, it runs clear, dimpling,
and beautiful down the hills ; and, before reaching
Kilbirnie village, tumbles noisily over a rocky de-
clivitous bed of porphyry, forming a wild and lonelv
cataract, known as 'the Spout of Garnock.' Iii
Dairy parish, it moves slowly, with an average
breadth of 60 feet, through a fertile plain, upon a
gravelly bed: and receives on its right bank the
important tributes of the Rye and the Gaaf. Further
on, it is joined on the left by Dusk water ; and
thence tc the sea, it flows through a level and richly
wooded country, sweeping past the town of Kilwin-
GARPEL WATER.
71G
GARRY.
ning, and making a confluence with the opulent
Btreatn of Lugton water. During all the lower part
of its course, it, on the one hand, enriches the dis-
trict with an abundant supply of salmon and various
kinds of trouts, and, on the other, menaces it with
an occasional devastating freshet. On the 19th of
September, 1790, this river — though always subject
to overflows — rose four feet higher than it was
known ever to have done before ; and prostrated and
destroyed the standing corn in many fields, anil
careered away to the sea with heavy freights of crops
which had been cut. Its entire length of course is
about 20 miles.
GARPEL. See Lochwinnoch.
GARPEL WATER, a streamlet of the parish of
Muirkirk, Ayrshire. It rises in the uplands near
the boundary with Lanarkshire, and runs about 4
or 5 miles north-westward to the nascent river Ayr,
GARPEL WATER, a streamlet of the Glenke'ns
district of Kirkcudbrightshire. It rises in the parish
of Dairy, and runs 5 or 6 miles southward, through
that parish and on the boundary with Balmaclellan,
to a confluence with the Ken about a mile above
New Galloway. It runs, in some parts, along a
narrow rugged channel, overhung by lofty wooded
precipices ; and it makes a few fine waterfalls, the
most picturesque of which is one associated with
events in the times of the persecuted Covenanters,
and called the Holv linn.
GARPEL WATER, a streamlet of the upper part
of Annandale, Dumfries-shire. It rises among the
mountains on the western border of the parish of
Moffat, near the boundary with Lanarkshire, and
runs about 5 or 6 miles south-eastward, through the
parishes of Moffat and Kirkpatrick-Juxta, to a con-
fluence with the Evan. It forms a cascade near the
old castle of Achincass. A very strong chalybeate,
known as Garpel spa, occurs near it ; not, however,
in the manner of a spring, but formed in pools by
solution in warm weather, when the rain water
imbibes and dissolves the mineral constituents from
the ferrugino-aluminous soil.
GARRALLAN. See Cumnock (Old).
GARRAWAULT. See Garawalt.
GARREL. See Gakvald.
GARR GLEN, a pass through the hills on the
mutual border of the parishes of Aucbtergaven and
Little Dunkeld, Perthshire. The streamlet Garry,
a tributary of the Ordie, rises in boggy ground at
the head of it.
GARRION-GILL. See Garion-Gill.
GARROCH-HEAD, a headland at the southern
extremity of the Island of Bute, 2f miles west of
the Little Crumbrae, Buteshire. It consists of a
collection of steep and narrow ridges, running par-
allel to each other, and separated by deep and soli-
tary valleys ; the whole being divided from the main
land by a low, marshy, sandy flat.
GARROCHORY (The). See Dee (The).
GARRON-HEAD, the headland flanking the
north side of Stonehaven bay, in the parish of Fet-
teresso, Kincardineshire. It consists of a light
green coloured rock, of intermediate character be-
tween trap and serpentine, and passing into chlorite
slate.
GARRY (Loch), a wild mountain lake, about
4 miles long and A a mile broad, extending north-
north-eastward on the mutual border of the parishes
of Fortingal and Blair-Athole, in Perthshire. It
reaches to within 2J miles of the boundary with
Badenoch, and lies nearly midway between the inn
of Dalnacardoch and the lonely Loch-Erieht. A
number of small mountain-streams flow into it,
among which a rivulet that issues from the base of
Benvoirlich and the Sliallain water are the largest.
It discharges its waters, at its north-eastern extrem
; ity, by the river Garry. Surrounded on all sides by
lofty, rugged mountains, with scarce an opening
outward, but what has been worn by the course of
some mountain-torrent, few more lonely or deserted
scenes can be conceived than Loch-Garry. No si<ms
of life are here to be met with, excepting sometimes
a flock of sheep, or a herd of cattle, or, at rare in-
tervals, a solitary shepherd and his dog. No trees
wave their graceful branches around this wild lake;
nor is there much appearance of vegetation on the
mountains, for their huge slopes bared of soil by the
winter's storms present little else to the view than
great masses of naked rock. In a few places, a small
portion of level ground may be descried on its shores;
but for the greater part of its extent the mountains
descend sheer down to the water, with scarcely a
perceptible footing at their base. On the banks of
the Shallain, near its entrance into the lake, a num-
ber of little knolls are seen, which have much the
appearance of artificial tumuli erected over the re-
mains of long-forgotten warriors.
GARRY (Loch), a picturesque mountain lake,
formed by expansion of the river Garry, about 7
miles in length, and terminating about 3 miles
above the influx of the river to Loch Oicli, in Inver-
ness-shire. It extends along a magnificent glen
with lofty receding mountains; and' its immediate
banks are a beautiful series of low swelling birch-
clad eminences. Its whole extent is suddenly re-
vealed to a traveller at a point near its eastern ex-
tremity.
GARRY (The), a river giving name to Glen-
garry, in the district of Athole, Perthshire. Like
most of the Perthshire streams it has a lake bearing
its own name, and is popularly said to have thence
its origin. Its real headwater, however, rises on
the side of Manbane mountain on the northern
boundary-line of the parish of Fortingal, and flows
through the parish, first 3|- miles southward, next
2£ miles eastward, and next f of a mile northward,
receiving on both banks considerable tributary tor-
rents from the ravines and gorges of the wild
mountain-region through which it has it course.
On the boundary between Fortingal and Blair-
Athole it expands into Loch-Garry, and is identified
for 4 miles north-north-eastward with that lake. At
the point of its efflux from the farther end it receives
from the north-west the tribute of Auld-Corry-Roan,
which had flowed 5 miles from the north-west ex-
tremity of Blair-Athole, and, making a sudden bend,
directs its course toward the south-east. Nearly
5 miles lower down it receives, on its left bank, the
large tribute of Edendon water, which had flowed
9J miles from the northern boundary of Perthshire.
A little wavr farther on it sweeps past the inn of
Dalnacardoch ; and 2J miles below the influx of
Edendon water it receives from the north the tribute
of Ender water, a stream of 7 miles in length of
course. Two miles onward, while still flowing in
a mountainous region, it begins to be adorned with
wooded banks, to riot in a profusion of cataracts and
cascades, and to wear an aspect of mingled wildness
and beauty. Four miles below its confluence with the
Ender it is joined, on its right bank, by the Feachory ;
and a mile farther on it receives, on its left bank,
the tribute of the romantic Braar. Over the last
mile it had flowed nearly due east ; and it main-
tains this direction over a farther distance of 2|
miles, till, sweeping past Blair castle and the hamlet
of Blair-Athole, it is joined by the bulky and play-
ful waters of the Tilt. It now, slowly resuming its
south-easterly direction, traces for If mile the
boundary-line between Blair-Athole and Dull, tra-
verses for 2 miles a corner of the parish of Moulin.
GARRY.
717
GARTSHERRIE.
bends southward, and, for one mile, divides Moulin
from Dull, and then loses its name and its waters
in the river Tnmmel. Its entire length of course is
30 miles. From the point of its leaving Loch-Garry,
onward to its termination, it brings down, close on its
left bank, the great Highland road from Inverness to
Edinburgh. The Garry is probably one of the most
impetuous or rather furious rivers of Scotland ; and,
when flooded by falls of rain or the melting of snow
among the mountains, it comes down with a roaring
tumultnousness and a terrific burst of accumulated
waters which only the banks of solid rock which
resist it can confine within harmless limits. But
even on its rocky or gravelly bed, it tears up heavy
fragments, and carries them lightly along in the
energy of its Highland prowess; and, in various
parts of its course, it forms cascades which, in its
gentle moods, are romantic, and in its seasons of
swollen wrath, inspire a Lowland spectator with
j awe.
GAERY (The), a river giving name to Glengarry,
in the north-west of Inverness-shire. Its head-
waters rise in Knoydart, at points not farther than
13 miles in a straight line from the Isle of Skye, and
flow 5 or 6 miles to Loch Quoich ; and the river,
issuing from the foot of that lake, runs sinuously
through a brilliant, wooded, mountain amphitheatre,
about 13 miles north-eastward, not reckoning sinu-
osities, but including its expansion of Loch Garry,
to an inosculation with Loch Oich, at the inn of
Invergarry, 7§ miles from Fort-Augustus. The
road connecting Skye and Glenelg with the centre
of the Great glen passes down the Garry all the way
from Loch Quoich.
GAERY (The), a streamlet of the parish of
Auehtergaven, Perthshire. It descends from the
head of Gleu-Garr, runs past the manse of Auehter-
gaven, receives the Corral burn, and unites at Leak
with the Ordie.
GAESCUBE, an estate in the parish of New Kil-
patrick, Dumbartonshire. It is situated on the
banks of the river Kelvin, and of the Forth and
Clyde canal, 5 miles north-west of Glasgow. It
belongs, together with other contiguous lands, to
Sir Archibald Islay Campbell, Bart., of Succoth.
Garscube house, the seat of that baronet, is a very
elegant building, in the old English manorial style,
erected in 1827, after designs by Mr. Burn of Edin-
burgh. The banks of the Kelvin here are exquisitely
picturesque. Coal is extensively worked at Gars-
cube, and very fine buff - coloured sandstone at
Netherton of Garscube.
GAETCOSH, a station on the Glasgow and Garn-
kirk portion of the Caledonian railway. It is situ-
ated in the parish of Cadder, 2A miles south-west of
Coatbridge, and 7J north-east of Glasgow.
GAETH. See Deltino.
GARTHLAND. See Locuwixxoch axd Stoxy-
kjrk.
GAETLOCH. See Cadder.
GAETLY, a parish in the district of Strathbogie,
and partly in Aberdeenshire, partly in Banffshire.
Its post-town is Huntly, 4 miles distant from the
parish- church, but only 1 mile from the near-
est part of the boundary. It is bounded on the
north by Huntly and Dramblade ; on the east by
Insch and Kinnethmont ; on the south by Ehynie ;
and on the west by Huntly and Cabrach It is di-
vided nearly into two equal parts by the water of
Bogie. The Banffshire moiety is named the Barony ;
and the Aberdeenshire, the Braes. The outline of
the parish is an irregular oval, extending about 12
miles in length from east to west, and 6 in breadth
from south to north. The hills on the border are
mostly covered with heath, and afford plenty of
grouse and other game, as well as a supply of moss
for fuel to the neighbouring parishes, and to the town
of Huntly. From these hills several brooks run
into the Bogie ; and the valleys watered by them
as well as the lands on the banks of the Bogie, are
exceedingly fertile. Agriculture is in an advanced
state upon upwards of 4,300 acres under cultivation.
The remaining 10,300 acres are in pasture, moor, or
moss and wood; but there is rather a defect of the
last. The Corskie slate quarries, on the property a<
the Duke of Richmond, are very extensive and val-
uable, producing on an average 340,000 slates per
annum, of three qualities, — first and second blue,
and green. Several of the glens are exceedingly
picturesque, — especially Tillyminnet, a favourite
resort of the tourist. The castle of Gartly is an
ancient ruin here, in which Queen Mary spent a
night on her return from Inverness. The rent of the
arable land is about £1 per Scotch acre. The yearly
value of crop produce was estimated in 1836 at
£13,793. Assessed property in 1860, £5,165. Pop-
ulation in 1831, 1,127; in 1861, 1,029. Houses, 184.
Population of the Aberdeenshire section in 1831,
584; in 1861, 562. Houses, 96.
This parish is in the presbytery of Strathbogie
and synod of Moray. Patron, the Duke of Rich-
mond. Stipend, £211 17s. 4d., glebe, £16. Unap-
propriated teinds, £68 7s. 6d. Schoolmaster's salary,
£50, with £5 fees, and a share in the Dick be-
quest. The parish church was built in 1621, but
has undergone so much renovation that little of
the original edifice of that date now remains ex-
cept the steeple; and it contains about 550 sittings.
There is a Free church, with an attendance of 200;
and its receipts in 1865 were £86 19s. ll^d. There
is a parochial library.
GAETMOEE, a post-office village in the parish
of Port-of-Monteitb, and on the south-western verge
of Perthshire. It stands on the peninsula between
the rivers Avendow and Kelty, 1-X mile above the
point where they unite to form the Forth, and on
the road from Aberfoyle to Dumbarton, 2J miles
south-south-east of Aberfoyle, and 10 west by north
of Kippcn. Fairs are held here on the 8th of Janu-
ary, -lie 7th of July, the 19th of October, and the
first Tuesday of October. A chapel of ease was
built here in 1790, at the cost of £400, and contains
415 sittings; and it is in the presentation of the com-
municants. Here also is a Free church, whose re-
ceipts in 1865 amounted to £125 18s. 9d. In the
vicinity is the fine mansion of Gartmore; and. the
surrounding country is wild though picturesque.
Population of the village, about 270.
GAETMOEE, Stirlingshire. See Dryme.w
GARTMORN. See Alloa.
GARTNESS, an extensive iron-work, in the
Monkland mineral field, 2 miles from Airdrie, and
12 from Glasgow, Lanarkshire. It is capable of
turning out about 100 tons of malleable iron per
week.
GARTNESS, Stirlingshire. See Dryjiex.
GAETNEY. See Strathgartsey.
GARTSHERRIE, a seat of coal-mining and of
iron-working in the parish of Old Monkland, Lanark-
shire. It adjoins the north-west side of Coatbridge,
and has a station on the Caledonian railway, 9 miles
from Glasgow. Its iron-works comprise a long
double range of sixteen smelting furnaces. Its lines
and groups of dwelling-houses are comprehended
within the last census limits of Coatbridge. It has
a very elegant place of worship connected with the
Established Church, surmounting a small hill a. little
south-east of the furnaces, and figuring in the general
landscape as a grand feature of the Coatbridge as-
semblage of town. This building was erected about
GART WHINE AN.
718
GARVALD.
15 years ago, ijiiefly by the munificence of the pro-
prietors of the iron-works, and cost about £3,300. It
3ontains 1,050 sittings, and has a steeple 136 feet
high. Here also is an academy, conducted by a
number of teachers and assistants, and supplying a
liberal range of instruction. A quoad sacra parish
was for some time attached to Garlsherrie, and con-
tained in 1841 a population of 5,903.
GARTWHINEAN, two villages, Easter and
Wester, in the parish of Fossaway, Perthshire.
Population of Easter G., 96. Houses, 27. Popula-
tion of Wester G., 49. Houses, 15.
GARVALD, or Garrel, an ancient parish, now
incorporated with Kirkmichael in Dumfries-shire.
The church was originally a mensal church of the
see of Glasgow. But in 1506, Robert Blackadder,
the archbishop, assigned it to Glasgow college. At
tlie Reformation, the patronage appears to have be-
longed to the convent of Red friars at Fail in Ayr-
shire; and, afterwards, it was vested in the Crown.
The subsequent annexation of the parish to Kirk-
michael, was vigorously resisted by the parishioners.
The church was rebuilt in 1617, but soon after was
abandoned. Its ruins, surrounded by its cemetery,
may still be seen on a rising ground on the bank
of a small stream of its own name. After Kirk-
michael church was appointed as the Sabbath resort
of the parishioners, nothing short of the authority
of the court-of-session was found competent to en-
force such an enlargement of it as afforded them
accommodation. Garvald had its name from a brook
which, in common with various other streams run-
ning along a rocky channel, was designated from
the Scoto-Irish language, Garv-ald, or Qarw-ald,
' a rough rivulet.' The name of the parish is com-
memorated also in that of two farms called Upper
and Nether Garrel, and in that of the principal eleva-
tion of the district, called Garrel-craig. From the
base of Garrel-craig, situated on the north-eastern
verge of the present parish of Kirkmichael, the
brook Garrel or Garvald flows southward 5J miles
to the Ae, nearly opposite Trniiflat, intersecting over
its whole length the quondam parish. Though
small in its volume of waters, it contributes largely
to beautify the landscape, forming several tiny cas-
cades and cataracts, and in one place falling over a
perpendicular rock 18 feet in depth.
GARVALD, or Garrel (The), a small, rough,
impetuous stream, in the parish of Kilsyth, Stirling-
shire. It rises on Garrel hill, one of the Campsie
range, whose altitude above sea-level is about 1 ,300
feet; and it runs about 3 miles, first through narrow
chasms, and afterwards over an open tract, to the
Kelvin. Within the first half of its course it makes
an aggregate descent of about 1,000 feet ; so that it
necessarily forms many cataracts and falls, — no one
of which, however, is deeper than 50 feet. But in
the lower part of its course, below Garrel-mill, it is
so drawn off to a lake as to be generally dry except
during a freshet.
GARVALD, or Garwal (The), a small hut in-
teresting stream in the parish of Eskdalemuir,
Dumfries-shire. It rises on the boundary-line of
the county, between Ettrick-pen and Windtell, pur-
sues a south-easterly course of 5J miles, including
windings, and then flows, for nearly a mile, to the
north of east, and falls into the White Esk, half-a-
mile above Johnstone. From third to half way on
its course, it receives, on its right bank, two tribu-
taries, each of nearly equal bulk to its own volume.
Ascending the stream from its mouth, a tourist's
attention is arrested by a view of the rockiness of
its channel and the romantic character of its banks;
but these appearances soon subsiding, he looks abroad
on the general landscape, or converses listlessly with
his own thoughts. In this mood, he is suddenly
aroused to admiration by a foaming cataract of the
stream, called Garvald linns, which comes impetu-
ously down, clothed in foam and glittering in spray,
over a declivitous, and at intervals, a precipitous
channel, pent np between banks of enormous rock
which, generally chill and naked, are at intervals
covered with the mountain-ash and the wild honey-
suckle. In the long course of the cataract, the
stream, even when most tumultuous and wayward,
constantly surprises and delights by the beautiful
variety of its capricious frolics ; now forming a
crystal and arched cascade over a perpendicular
breastwork 8 feet deep, — and now sweeping out of
view among huge masses of stone, — and then, as if
glad to be emancipated from its rocky imprisonment,
careering away, in the riotousness of new-found
liberty, over the rough slopes of its declivitous path.
GARVALD and BARA, an united parish, con-
taining the post-office village of Garvald, in Had-
dingtonshire. It is bounded by Berwickshire, and
by the parishes of Gifford, Morharn, and Whitting-
ham. Its length southward is 7f miles; and its
greatest breadth is 4 miles. The northern division,
comprising about one-fourth of the whole area, is
arable, well-cultivated, delightfully shaded with
plantation, and rich in the agricultural capacities
and beauties of the great plain of East Lothian; but
the other divisions climb away up the Lammermoor
hills, till they gain the highest ridge, and over their
whole progress wear the heathy garb, variegated
with occasional patches of verdure, which dis-
tinguishes that pastoral region. The soil in these
two districts of so very opposite character, corres-
ponds with the respective appearances of the surface ;
being, in the one, a deep rich clayey loam, and, in
the other, a thin gravel or a swampish and marshy
moss. Three streams come down from the southern
heights, and on reaching the plain, debouch west-
ward into Gifford, making a confluence at the point
of their exit. A fourth, also rising in the southern
uplands, intersects the parish over a great part of
its length, and flows past the village of Garvald :
and this stream, as to both its nature and its name,
is "the rough rivulet," whence the parish has its
designation. Its course is over a very stony or
rocky bed. Yet should we not deem,
"because it wants the cowslippcd knolls.
The white swans grazing the flower-bordered flood.
The lily beds which seem the naked soles
Of pilgrims, with the scallop-shell aud rood,
That it is desolate utterly and rude:
Tlie brackeny dells, the music of the rills,
'the skipping lambs — e'en the "wild solitude —
The crystal tarn where herons droop their bills,
The mute unchanging glory of tlie eternal hills,- -
iUnte, save for music of the many bees,
And dead, save for the plover and tlie snipe,"
belong eminently to this small stream. Yet, true
to its genealogy in " the land of the mountain and
the flood," it sometimes comes down with such a
volume and impetuosity of inundation, as to deposit
on fields adjoining its channel stones of a great
weight and size. In 1755, it rose to so great a
height that some of the houses in the village of
Garvald had 3 feet depth of water ; and the stream
rioting over the adjacent country with the expansion
of a small estuary, and careering along the central
space with the speed of a race-horse, would have cer-
tainly swept away the village, had not its impetuo-
sity ploughed up a new channel for the discharging
of its superabundant waters. In the vicinity of tho
village are some quarries of excellent freestone.
The mansion of Hopes is pleasantly situated near
the bottom of a glen, overlooked by a finely wooded
GARVALD.
719
GARVOCK.
spur of the Lammcrmoor hills. Nunraw, on the
eastern verge of the northern division, was anciently,
as its name implies, a nunnery, and though modern-
ized into the form of a mansion, bears traces of its
original character. A mile and-a-half south of
Nunraw, and close on the eastern boundary, is a
circular camp or fortification, crowning the summit
of a rising ground. A mile south of this, and also
on the eastern verge, and among the Lammermoors,
are vestiges of White castle,— a strength of con-
siderable importance during the age of violence and
hostility, as it guarded a pass between the Merse
and the Lothians. On a peninsula formed by the
confluence of the brooks at the western boundary,
stands the ancient castle of Yester. Sir David
Dalrymple relates, in his annals, that " Hugh Gif-
ford de Yester died in 1267, and that in his castle
there was a spacious cavern formed by magical art,
and called in the country Bo:hall, i. e., Hobgoblin
hall." This apartment, which is very spacious, and
has an arched roof, is reached by a descent of 24
steps; and though it has stood for so many centu-
ries, and been exposed to the external air for about
120 years, it is still in a state of good preservation.
From the floor, another stair of 36 steps leads down
to a pit, which communicates with one of the
neighbouring rivulets. A great part of the walls
superincumbent on the cavernous apartment are
still standing. Tradition reports that the castle of
Yester was the last fortification in this country
which surrendered to General Gray, sent into Scot-
hind by Protector Somerset. The landowners of
the parish are the Marquis of Tweeddale, the Earl
of Wemyss, Balfour of Whittir.gham, Hay of Hopes,
and Hay of Linplum and Nunraw. The valued
rental is £4,229 4s. Scotch. Assessed property in
1860, £9,444. The village of Garvaid stands
near the northern verge of the parish, 5J miles
south-east of Haddington, and 8J south-west of
Dunbar. Population of the village, about 280.
Population of the parish in 1831, 914; in 1861, 891.
Houses, 171.
This parish is in the presbytery of Haddington,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patrons,
the Crown and the Marquis of Tweeddale. Stipend,
£189 6s. 3d.; glebe, £25. Schoolmaster's salary,
£50, witli £40 fees. The parish church is an
old building, enlarged in 1829, and containing
400 sittings. There is a Free church, with an at-
tendance of 250; and its receipts in 1865 amounted
to £161 2s. 6d. There are an industrial school
and a friendly society. A convent of Cistertian
nuns, established near Haddington during the reign
of Malcolm IV., obtained possession of the church
of Garvaid, with its pertinents, and a carrucate of
adjacent land; and they formed a branch com-
munity near it, and built a village, which, as well
as the protecting convent, was called Nunraw.
They acquired also the lands of Slade and Snowdon,
comprising jointly almost all the parish ; and they
kept possession of the whole till the Reformation.
But so exposed were the inmates of the Garvaid
convent to spoliation and oppression, that they ob-
tained leave to protect themselves by a fortalice.
The suppressed parish of Bara was rated in the
ancient Taxatio at 25 merks, while the original
paiish of Garvaid was rated at only 15; and it
seems, therefore, to have been the more populous of
the two. From the beginning of the 14th century
till the Reformation, the church, with its pertinents,
belonging to the monks of Holyrood; in 1633, it
was attached to the newly erected bishopric of
Edinburgh; and afterwards it passed to the Hays
of Yester and Tweeddale. The two parishes were
united in 1702. .
GARVALD-POINT, a low rocky headland, tufted
with wood, on the south side of the frith of Clyde,
between Port Glasgow and Greenock, Renfrewshire.
GARVE, a river, a lake, and a post-office station
in the central part of Ross-shire. The river rises
on the Diriemore mountains, near the confines of
the district of Lochbroom, and runs about 18 miles
south-eastward, along a glen to which it gives the
name of Strathgarve, through a wildly pastoral
country, and past the south-west side of Benivyvis,
to a confluence with the Conon, near Contin inn, at
a point about 7 miles above Dingwall. The lake is
formed by expansion of the river about 4 miles
above its mouth; and, though of no great extent, is
a fine open sheet of water, with a large amount of
green meadows and plantations at its north-west
end. The post-office station is situated here, on the
road from Inverness to Lochbroom, 26J miles north-
west of Inverness. Here is a small but comfortable
inn. A fair is held here on the third Tuesday of
August.
GARVEILAN. See Shiamt Isles.
GARVELLOCH ISLES, a group of pastoral
islets in the parish of Jura, Argyleshire. They
yield a rental of £150. They were a residence of
the monks of Iona, and therefore are often called
the Holy Islands. Some vestiges of a chapel and a
cemetery are still observable. A marble quarry
was once wrought on one of them.
GARVIEMORE, a stage on the road from Fort-
Augustus to Perth. It is situated on the nascent
Spey, near the south-western extremity of the
Monadhleagh mountains, 4 miles north-east of tho
head of Loch Laggan, 13 north-west of Dalwhinnie,
and 18 south-east of Fort-Augustus.
GARVOCK, a parish in the south of Kincardine-
shire. It is bounded by Arbuthnot, Benholme, St.
Cyrus, Marykirk, and Laurencekirk. Its post-town
is Laurencekirk, about 2J miles west-north-west of
its own centre. Its length south-westward is fully
7 miles; and its greatest breadth is about 4 miles.
The central district consists of a large basin, or
how, of from 3,000 to 4,000 imperial acres, sur-
rounded by hills or rising grounds on every side,
except a narrow pass to the south-east, through the
romantic ravine of Fennelden. The rest of the
parish is gently undulated ; and beautiful views are
commanded from the eminences, especially from the
hill of Garvook, which rises for more than a mile,
in a pretty steep ascent from the Howe of the
Meams. Bervie water, forming the north-eastern
boundary, is the principal stream. According to
tradition, Garvock was once a hunting-park, be-
longing to Earl Marischal; and the remains of a
dyke which surrounded the parish, and was called
the Deer dyke, seem to countenance the tradition.
The present wood is of small extent, and consists
entirely of plantations. About two-thirds of the
parish are cultivated or capable of improvement,
and the peat-mosses, and other high grounds form-
erly covered with heath, whins, and broom, have
been gradually reclaimed, so that the mosses are
now nearly exhausted; and the work of invasion and
advancement is still in progress. There are eight
landowners. The real rental in 1822 was upwards
of £3,000. The yearly value of raw produce was
estimated in 18o"6 at £12,804 19s. 4d. Assessed
property in 1866, £5,962 2s. 3d. The Aberdeen
railway passes near the western boundary, and
is accessible at Laurencekirk. On the summit of
Garvock hill there are two large Druidieal eaims
or high places, where the fires of the Druidieal
god were lighted. At a place called Brownie'g-
leys, about the year 1420, an impatient, and prob-
ably unmeaning, ejaculating aspiration was uttered
GASK.
720
GATEHOUSE.
by King James I., — "Sorrow gin that sheriff
were soddan and supped in brie!" and was liter-
ally and jesuitically fulfilled on the body of Mel-
ville, laird of Glenbervie, and sheriff of the Mearns,
by five savage Highland lairds, with whom the
unfortunate man was at enmity, and who actually
boiled him in a great cauldron in the forest of Gar-
vock, whither they decoyed him to a deer hunt.
Population in 1831, 473; in 1861, 458. Houses, 77.
This parish is in the presbytery of Fordoun, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £177 lis. 9d.; glebe, £12. Schoolmaster's
salary, £45, with £22 fees. The parish church was
built in 1778, and contains about 300 sittings.
There are a private school and a parochial library.
A cattle and feeing fair of four days in continuance,
called St. James' fair, and commencing on the third
Tuesday of July, old style, used to be held on the
hill of Garvock, about half a mile from the church,
and was for some time one of the most important in
the county, but has fallen greatly off and been
transferred to Laurencekirk.
GARVOCK, Fifeshire. See Dcxfermline.
GARVOCK, Perthshire. See Dunnixg.
GARVOCK- HILL. See Duchall (The), and
Garvock.
GASK, or Fisdogask, a parish, containing the
post-office station of Gask and the village of Clathy,
in the centre of the south-eastern half of Perthshire.
It is bounded by Methven, Tippermuir, Forteviot,
Dunning, Auchterarder, Trinity- Gask, and Mad-
derty. Except for its having the north-west comer
cut away, it is nearly a parallelogram, measuring
3f miles from north to south, and 24 miles from
east to west. Along its southern boundary, in a
serpentine course of 3 miles or upwards, runs the
Earn. Except on the north side— where a consider-
able patch of moss has resisted the reclaiming efforts
of the farmers, and continues to supply the parish-
ioners with peat — the parish spreads away in corn
fields and pastures, sheltered and beautified with ex-
tensive plantations from the Earn, till, by a gentle
rise, it attains about the middle of its area a slight
ridgy elevation, and thence it slopes softly down
toward the northern boundary, richly ornamented
by considerable groves. Upwards of 1,200 acres are
under plantation ; and, with the exception of the
moss in the north-west corner, all the rest of the
parish is enclosed and under culture. The soil is
partly clayey, and partly a fine loam. Marl occurs
in various localities ; and freestone and grey slate
abound. The only mansion is Gask, the residence
of the chief proprietor, situated on the southern
slope. Along the summit of the ridge or highest
ground of the parish, runs a Roman causeway, cut-
ting it into two equal parts. The causeway is 20 feet
broad, consists of compactly-placed rough stones,
and forms a communication between Roman camps
in the parishes respectively of Scone and Muthil.
Along its side are traceable small Roman stations,
fortified with ditches, and each containing a suffi-
cient area for from 1 2 to 18 or 19 men. One of these
stations has from time immemorial been designated
the Witch-knowe, and is traditionally reported to
have been the scene of the burning of unhappy in-
dividuals for the imputed crime of sorcery. Four
roads run through the parish from east to west, and
one intersects it from north to south. The Scottish
Central railway is accessible at stations not far from
the south-eastern boundary. Population in 1831,
428 ; in 1861, 399. Houses, 77. Assessed property
in 1866, £4,910 17s. 2d.
This parish is in the presbytery of Auchterarder,
and Synod of Perth and Stirling. Patron, the
Crown. Stipend, £155 4s. 7d.; glebe, £15. School-
master's salary, £50 0s. 0d., with fees. The parish
church was built in 1800, and contains nearly 400
sittings. There is a parochial library. Dr. Stewart
of Newburgh and Principal Taylor of Glasgow
college, were natives of Gask.
GASK, Inverness-shire. See Daviot.
GASKIER. See Gaaskier.
GASSTOWN, a village in the parish of Dumfries.
GATEHEAD. SeeKiuiAURS.
GATEHOUSE -of -FLEET, a post-town, and
small sea-port, and seat of manufacture, chiefly in
the parish of Girthon, and partly in the parish of
Anwoth, Kirkcudbrightshire. It stands on the river
Fleet, 1J mile above the head of Fleet-bay, 8 miles
from Kirkcudbright, 50 from Port-Patrick, 33 from
Dumfries, and 105 from Edinburgh. The scenery
around it is magnificent. Spread out from the river
is a beautiful, luxuriant, romantic vale; rising up
on three sides, are congeries of hills, variously clad
with heath and verdure, or cinctured and crowned
with plantation, and climbing away in the distance
till they raise bald summits to the sky, and look down
upon the lowlands with the savage aspect of defiance
to cultivation ; and, on the south-west through a
broad cleft in the mountain-screen, the pellucid
bosom of Fleet-bay glitters in the reflected rays of
the sun, or exults beneath a gorgeous drapery of
clouds. Nor does the situation contribute less to
health, and to the purposes of traffic and manufac-
ture, than to the soothing of the imagination and
the tutoring of taste. Yet, though lying on a
navigable river near its influx to the sea, — though
traversed by every thing passing along the great
thoroughfare between Dumfries and Port-Patrick, —
and though exerting a command as to facilities of
intercommunication over an extensive range of
country, it possessed, about a century ago, only a
single house, or, as a town, was still to be called into
existence. Gatehouse was then nothing more than
"a house" at "the gate" of the avenue leading up
to the mansion of Mr. Murray of Broughton, the
proprietor of the soil. But when, in consequence
of that gentleman offering very advantageous terms
of feu, and exhibiting well-digested plans for draw-
ing an influx of prosperity, the town was fairly
commenced, it made, for a series of years, very rapid
progress toward importance, and even gave promise
of becoming an influential seat of manufacture. So
early as about the beginning of the present century,
it had four cotton factories, a fair proportion of
hand-looms for cotton weaving, a brass-foundry, a
wine company, a brewery, a tannery, and workshops
for nearly every class of artisans ; and, though
possessing a population of only about 1,200, it had
so diffused the spirit of manufacture and enterprise
among the rural inhabitants of an extensive circum-
jacent region, as to hold many of them in a state of
subserviency to its aims of social achievement. Im-
provements were made to facilitate the navigation
of the Fleet to the sea ; a canal or aqueduct was cut
from a lake several miles distant to bring down a
sufficient water-power for the driving of the fac-
tories ; a public library, a mason-lodge, an academy,
an Episcopalian chapel, and various other institu-
tions indicated transition to something resembling
burghal life; and appearances, in general, seemed
to menace the Glasgow of the west with the ener-
getic rivalry of a Glasgow of the south. But Gate-
house— like many a dashing upstart in trade — was
unable, at the day of reckoning, to withdraw all the
bills of promise it had endorsed; it lost, somewhat
suddenly, several of its appliances of prosperity ;
and though still a place of importance, and likely to
continue so, it has egregiously failed to fulfil the
expectation which hafl been formed of it, and can
GATESIDE.
721
GAVINTON.
scarcely be said to have made material progress
during the last forty years.
Gatehouse, as to the aspect of its streets, the
neatness of its buildings, and the entire grouping of
its burghal landscape, is decidedly the most hand-
some town in Galloway, and is equalled by very few
in Scotland. The larger part of it on the left bank
of the Fleet, has, as to its main body, the form of a
regular parallelogram, a sort of miniature imitation
of the original New town of Edinburgh. The street
which stands on the highway between Dumfries
and Port-Patrick, and forms the principal thorough-
fare, is particularly neat and uniform. Most of the
houses of the town are two stories high, and cov-
ered with slates. A handsome stone-bridge spans
the Fleet, and connects the Girthon district with its
Anwoth suburb. A neat parish church, built in
1817, and containing 714 sittings, adorns the par-
allelogram. There are also in the town a Free
church and an United Presbyterian church; and
only about a mile from it is the Anwoth parish
church ; but the Episcopalian chapel, though under
a deed of endowment which renders it capable of
being revived, has been taken down. Two cotton
factories, employing upwards of 200 persons, are
still in operation; and one of these is a re-edification,
with improvements, of a factoiy which was de-
stroyed by fire in 1840. There are likewise in the
town or its near vicinity a brewery, a brick manu-
factory, and an extensive nursery. A canal, cut in
a straight line along the river, at an expenditure of
£3,000, by Mr. Murray, supersedes some defects in
the natural navigable capacities of the Fleet. But
the river itself is stemmed by the tide up to the
town, and brings up on its bosom vessels of 60 tons
burden. The exports are principally grain, and the
imports coals and lime. The aggregate yearly ton-
nage probably does not exceed 1,200 outwards, and
2,200 inwards. The town has offices of the Union
Bank, of the Bank of Scotland, a savings' bank, a
news'-room, several friendly societies, a variety of
schools, and a telegraphic station. A weekly town
market is held on Saturday; a weekly cattle market,
in November and December, on Friday; and a fair
on the first Monday of June, old style.
Gatehouse was erected into a burgh-of-barony by
a royal charter, dated 30th June, 1795. Its magis-
tracy and council consist of a provost, two bailies,
and four councillors, annually elected by the resi-
dent feuars or proprietors of houses within the
burgh. There is also a town-clerk, who is annually
elected in like manner. There are no other office-
bearers. The jurisdiction exercised by the magis-
trates is chiefly confined to civil causes; and the
average number of cases does not exceed 20 per
annum. The magistrates also take cognizance of
the smaller police offences, and punish offenders by
fines, which are wholly appropriated towards remu-
nerating the officer for his trouble. The burgh has
no property, debts, or revenue, and, of course, no
accounts, annual or otherwise. The police act was
adopted in 1852, with good effects; and the assess-
ment under it is the only local tax. A justice of
peace small debt court is held on the first Saturday
of every month. Population in 1841, 1,832 ; in
1851, 1,750; in 1861, 1,635. Population of the Gir-
thon section in 1841, 1,413; in 1851, 1,325; in 1861,
1 245.
'GATESHAW HILL. See Morebattle.
GATESIDE, a village in the parish of Beith, up-
wards of a mile east of the town of Beith, Ayrshire.
Population 270.
GATESIDE, a village, with a post-office, in the
parish of Strathmiglo, Fifeshire. It is otherwise
called Edexshead : which see.
I.
GATESIDE, a village in the parish of Neilston,
Renfrewshire. It stands on the left bank of the
Levem, 4 miles south-east of Paisley ; and forms
part of the swarm of industry extending from Barr-
head to Crofthead. A cotton factory was erected
here so early as 1786. Population, in 1861, 455.
GATESIDE, a village in the parish of Kirkgun-
zeon, Kirkcudbrightshire. Population, 23. Houses, 6.
GATESIDE, a village in the parish of Wamphray.
Dumfries-shire. It stands near the left bank of the
river Annan, on the road from Glasgow and Carlisle.
Here is an United Presbyterian meeting-house, built
about the year 1790. Population, about 90.
GATTONSIDE, a Dost-office village in the parish
of Melrose, Roxburghshire. It stands on the left
bank of the Tweed, on the road from Drygrange to
Galashiels, about a mile north of Melrose. Seen
from a distance, it seems a little town luxuriating
in an isolated grove, in the centre of one of the most
brilliant landscapes in Scotland. But when entered,
it is an aspersion of trees, detached houses, and
patches of luxuriant orchard-ground, sprinkled in
such capricious confusion on the plain, that the idea
of a village — in the modem and methodical sense of
the word — cannot easily be associated with the spot.
In all respects, the place is incomparably more at-
tractive as seen from without, than as seen from
within. Gattonside is celebrated for its orchards,
and sends more fruit to market than any other place
in the vale of Tweed, or perhaps any place of its
size in Scotland. A large beautiful church once
stood here, but can be traced now only by a few
small vestiges. An elegant iron bridge spans the
Tweed on the road hither to Melrose. Population,
252. Houses, 61.
GATTONSIDE HILLS, a range of heights, of
uniform appearance and smooth surface, extending
from the Leader to the Gala, in the parish of Mel-
rose, Roxburghshire,
GAUHSNESS. See Fitful-Head.
GAUIE (The), or Gauer, or Gamhaie, a river of
Argyleshire and Perthshire. It rises in the deer
forest of the Marquis of Breadalbane, some miles east
of Loch-Etive in Argyleshire, and in general pursues
an easterly direction. Receiving in the early part
of its course, numerous tributary torrents from among
the mountains, it soon becomes a considerable stream,
and spreads itself out at intervals into romantic loch
lets or lakes, — among others, the isleted and sylvan-
studded Loch-Batha. After a course of about 12
miles, it expands into the large and beautiful lake,
Loch-Lydoch, and, while lost in it, is carried out of
Argyleshire into Perthshire. Issuing from the east
side of that lake, § of a mile from its north-eastern
termination, it flows 5§ miles due east to Loch-
Rannoch, enters it by two channels enclosing a fine
verdant islet, and there loses its waters and its name.
Near the central part of its course, between Loch-
Lydoch and its embouchure, it expands during a
season of rain, into a temporary lake of several miles
in circumference, called Loch-Eathach ; but, when
its waters become diminished, it retires within river-
limits, and lets the bed of the lake wear the char-
acter of a meadow. Like most of the streams in the
region to which it belongs, it has cascades and
cataracts ; and when tumbling over these in the
swollen waters of several days' rain, it sends away
hoarse sounds through the mountain-wilderness,
which are heard at some miles' distance.
GAULDRY. See Galdey.
GAVIN'S KIRK. See Dobaby.
GAVINTON, a village in the eastern division of
the parish of Langton, Berwickshire. It stands on
the road between Dunse and Greenlaw, 1 J mile from
the former, and oi miles from the latter. Its prede-
2 z
GAWREER BURJN.
722
GIFEORD.
eessor, the ancient village of Langton, standing in
the way of some improvements projected by Mr.
Gavin the proprietor, Gavinton was built in 1760,
and on terms advantageous to the inhabitants, offered
to them as a substitute. At its west end stands the
parish-church. The village of Langton stood § of
a mile to the west. Population of Gavinton, 206.
Houses, 58.
GAWREER BURN, a streamlet of Cunningham,
Ayrshire. It has a course of about 4J miles south-
ward to the Irvine, and runs on the boundary between
the parish of Kilmaurs and the parish of Dreghorn.
GAYLET-POT, or Geary- Pot, a remarkable
natural curiosity, within a great cavern, about a
mile south of the fishing-village of Auchmithie, in
a rocky part of the coast of the parish of St. Vigean's,
Forfarshire. The cavern opens from the sea in a
grand rude archway, about 70 feet high, 40 feet wide,
and 130 feet below the top of the rock, as imposing
and magnificent as it is spacious; and it extends
direct into the interior, over a distance of 300 feet,
gradually contracting in spaciousness till it attains
a minimum width and height, each 10 or 12 feet.
At the extremity of this vast subterraneous corridor
is the pot, — a capacious cavity going precipitously
down to it from the midst of an arable field. The
pot is proximately circular, has an outline resem-
bling that of an inverted urn, and measures 150 feet
in diameter and 120 feet in depth from its immediate
lips. The sea enters the cavern, and brings up to
tlie pot the fluctuations of the tide ; and when it is
urged by an easterly wind, it bursts in at high water
with amazing impetuosity, and roars, boils, and
froths, with a noise which only the great depth and
the contractedness of the pot prevent from being
heard at a considerable distance, and then recedes
with proportionate violence, and makes a bellowing
exit from the cavern to the main.
GEANACH (Mount), a mountain, having an al-
titude of between 2,000 and 3,000 feet above sea-level,
in the parish of Birse, Aberdeenshire.
GEANIES. See Tarbat.
GEARY-POT. See Gatlet-Pot.
GEAULY (The). See Dee (The).
GEDDES-HILL. See Nairn.
GEDDESTON, a village in the parish of Avoch,
Ross-shire.
GEDDES-WELL. See Tweedsmuir.
GELAH, a hamlet in the parish of Dunrossness,
Shetland.
GELLET. See Dunfermline.
GELLY (Loch). See Lochgeli.y.
GELSTON, a post-office village in the parish of
Kelton, 2 J miles south- south-east of Castle Douglas,
Kirkcudbrightshire. Population, 146. Houses, 32.
In the vicinity is Gelston castle, a mansion built by
the late Sir William Douglas, Bart. There was an
ancient parish of Gelston, comprehending the tract
which now forms the south-eastern district of the
parish of Kelton. Its church belonged to the prior
and canons of Whithorn, and was given in 1606 to
the .bishop of Galloway. Some vestiges of it still
exist.
GELT WATER, a head-stream of the Lugar,
rising near the confines of Dumfries-shire, and
flowing 4 or 5 miles north-westward to a confluence
with Glcnmore Water, in the parish of Auchinleck,
Ayrshire.
'GEMETRA. See Gometra.
GENERAL'S HUT. See Foyers (The).
GENERAL'S WATCH. See Currie.
GENTLEMAN'S CAVE. See Westray.
GEORGE (Fort), a strong regular fortress, in
the parish of Ardcrsier, Inverness-shire. It stands
on a peninsula running into the Moray frith, 1 mile
north-west of Campbelton, 8 miles west of Nairn,
and 12 north -east of Inverness. It completely com-
mands the entrance to the inner Moray frith and
Loch-Beauly, and appears from a distance as if
united to the opposite point of Chanonry in Ross-
shire. It was built soon after the rebellion of 1745,
for the purpose of overawing the Highlanders.
Government proposed to build a fort at Inver-
ness, at a place called the Citadel or Cromwell's
fort; but the magistrates of Inverness demanded
such a price for the ground, that the Duke of Cum-
berland was offended, and having ordered an inspec-
tion of the ground upon which Fort-George now
stands, the engineers reported that it would answer
equally well with that of Inverness. Accordingly,
Government purchased the ground, and a large farm
in the neighbourhood of it, from Campbell of Calder ;
and the works were commenced in 1747, under the
direction of General Skinner. The estimate given
in was £120,000; but the work is said to have cost
upwards of £160,000. It is a regular fortification,
and covers 10 Scots acres. It commands a fine
view of the Moray frith, which expands beyond the
fort, and is bounded by lofty hills; and this prospect
is terminated by the picturesque town of Inverness,
with huge mountains rising on both sides of it.
" The fort is an irregular polygon, with six bastions
mounting 18 twenty-four, 25 eighteen, 22 twelve,
and 4 six-pounders, and 4 thirteen-inch mortars.
The land front is defended by a ditch, covert way,
and glacis, two lunettes, and a ravelin, mounting 8
twelve pounders. 1 he north and south curtains are
casemated, each containing 27 bomb-proof apart-
ments, fifty-two feet long, by twelve feet wide. The
grand magazine is bomb-proof, and will bold 2,474
barrels of gunpowder. The staff buildings lie to-
wards the land front, and are occupied by the gov-
ernor's, lieutenant-governor's, and officers' quarters;
the artillery barracks are also in these buildings.
At the eastern extremity of the garrison there are
two small casemated magazines, 50 feet long, by
34 feet broad, with ammunition made up for immedi
ate use. The barracks are constructed for a gover-
nor, lieutenant-governor, fort-major, chaplain, 8
field-officers, 22 captains, 56 subalterns, and 2,090
non-commissioned officers and privates. The fort is
also provided with a chapel, brewhouse, bakehouse,
and inn, and is supplied with water from eight pump-
wells."
GEORGETOWN, a village in the St. Michael's
division of the parish of Dumfries. Population, 154.
Houses, 32.
GEORGETOWN, a locality at the west end oi
Loch Rannoch, in the parish of Fortingal, Perth-
shire, where formerly there were military barracks.
GERSTON, a hamlet, now nearly extinct, in the
parish of Halkirk, Caithness-shire.
GETT BAY. See Tiree.
GEYLET-POT. See Gaylet-Pot.
GEYZEN BRIGGS. See Dornoch Frith.
GIANT'S CHAIR. See Mortlach.
GIEN RIG. See Keith.
GIFFEN. See Beith.
GIFFERTON, or Giffordton, a village in the
parish of Collessie, Fifesbire. It is of modern erec-
tion, and consists of neat comfortable houses. Pop-
ulation, 71. Houses, 17.
GIFFORD, a post-office village in the northern
part of the parish of Yester, Haddingtonshire; also
the name by which that parish is popularly, though
not legally, known. See Yester. The village is
delightfully situated on the right bank of Gifford
burn, in the centre of a well-wooded strath, 360 feet
above the level of the sea, and environed, at a mile-
nnd-a-half distance, by an amphitheatre of ridgy,
GIFFORD BURN.
723
GIGHA.
arable, well-cultivated heights. Its distance from
Haddington is 4 miles, from Tranent 9, and from
Edinburgh 19. It consists principally of two streets
of unequal length, composed of well-built houses,
generally two stories high, and of neat appearance.
One of the streets commences within the long beau-
tiful avenue leading up to Tester-house, and runs
north-westward till it is closed up by the parish
Bchool-house and its surmounting spire. The second
street runs transverse to the former, and is termin-
ated by the parish church. In the vicinity are brick-
works and a saw-mill; and there was formerly a
woollen factory. Most of the inhabitants hold in feu
or fief of the Marquis of Tweeddale; and they meet
biennially to choose 2 bailies and 5 councillors to
manage the public affairs of the village. Besides the
parochial school, there are two unendowed schools.
Fairs are held on the last Tuesday of March, the
third Tuesday of June, and the first Tuesday of
October; and they are of considerable importance,
and draw purchasers from a distance. A weekly
hiring-market is held on Monday mornings during
harvest for bringing shearers within the range of
employment.
The village, though of later date than the close of
Charles I.'s reign, derives its name from the ancient
family of Gifford, whose ancestors came from Eng-
land and obtained extensive estates in Mid-Lothian
during the reign of David I. Hugh de Gifford, the
younger, rose to distinction under William the Lion,
and was rewarded by him with the lands of Yester.
In the 15th century, through a failure of male heirs,
a daughter of the family carried the property of the
Giffords, by matrimonial alliance, into the family of
Hay of Borthwick. In 1488, the proprietors ob-
tained the title of Lords Hay of Yester ; in ] 646,
they were created Earls of Tweeddale ; and, in 1694,
they were raised to the dignity of Marquises of
Tweeddale. — Gifford contests with Giffbrd-gate, a
small street in the Nungate, one of the suburbs of
Haddington, the honour of having been the birth-
place of John Knox. Modern writers and private
debaters have expended much labour in advocating
the conflicting claims of the two localities. Dr.
M'Crie, the distinguished biographer of Knox, will
probably be regarded as a judge of the question
quite as cool and as competent as most ; and lie
says, " I am inclined to prefer the opinion of the
oldest and most credible writers that he — John
Knox — was born in the village of Gifford." Dr.
John Witherspoon, president of the college of New
Jersey, in America, was another eminent native of
this village. Population, in 1861, 458.
GIFFORD BURN— called also the Hope, the
Bolton, and the Coalston — a beautiful rivulet in
Haddingtonshire. It rises immediately beneath the
highest ridge of the Lammermoor hills, at the south-
ern boundary of the parish of Garvald; and, under
the name of the Hope, runs first north-eastward, and
then northward, 5J miles near the western verge of
Garvald parish. It now receives two considerable
tributaries, one on each bank, and for 2 miles north-
westward intersects the parish of Yester, passing,
in its course, the village of Gifford. For nearly half-
a-mile further it divides Yester'from Haddington,
and then receives a considerable tributary from the
south, assumes the name of the Bolton, flows past the
village of that name, and for 1£ mile north-west-
ward, 1£ mile northward, and £ a mile westward,
divides Haddington from Bolton. About a furlong
farther on, it falls into the Tyne 1J mile above the
town of Haddington. Its entire course is about 12
miles. Over the greater part of its course, it flows
between delightfully sylvan banks ; and, in various
stages of its progress, it meanders and luxuriates
among the pleasure-grounds of six mansions,-
Yester, Eaglescairnie, Hopes, Bolton, Coalston,
and Lennoxlove. Its waters abound in trout.
GIFFORDTON. See Gifferton.
GIGHA, a small pastoral island, belonging to tho
Hebridean parish of Barra in Inverness-shire. It
lies two miles south-west of Eriskay, and 3 north-
east of the nearest part of Barra.
GIGHA, an island constituting the main part of
the parish of Gigha and Cara, Argyleshire. It is
separated from the west side of Kintyre by a channel
3 J miles broad, and lies 13 miles east of the Mull of
Islay, and 7 south-west of the entrance of West
Loch Tarbert. It is of a regular oblong figure, ex-
tending from north to south; 7 miles in length, 2^
in greatest breadth, and containing about 5,000
Scots acres. The coast on the west side is bold and
rocky ; on the east side there are several points jut-
ting out, and a few sunk rocks, which render the
navigation dangerous to strangers. Between these
points are several bays or creeks, where small vessels
can be safely moored. One of the bays, called Ard-
minish, near the church, has good anchorage in 6 or
7 fathom water; and another, called Drimyeonbeg,
affords good holding ground. The Island of Cara
[see that article] lies about a mile distant on the
south ; and in the middle of the sound between
them is the small uninhabited island of Gigulum,
near which is good anchoring ground for the largest
vessels. The general appearance of Gigha is low
and flat; except towards the west side, where the
ground rises into hills of about 300 or 400 feet in
elevation. Except in this quarter the whole island
is arable, and the soil a light loam, with a mixture in
some places of sand, moss, or clay. Trap veins
traverse the island in different directions. In Gigha
are the ruins of an old chapel. Martin, who visited
it in the beginning of the last century, says: "it
has an altar in the east end, and upon it a font of
stone which is very large, and hath a small hole in
the middle which goes quite through it. There are
several tombstones in and about this church. The
family of the Mac-neils, the principal possessors of
this isle, are buried under the tomb- stones on the
east side of the church, where there is a plat of
ground set apart for them. Most of all the tombs
have a two-handed sword engraven on them, and
there is one that lias the representation of a man
upon it." The island is well-supplied with springs,
which afford water sufficient to turn two corn-mills.
The sandbanks abound with excellent fish ; and
much sea-weed is thrown ashore. The principal
occupations of the inhabitants are agriculture and
fishing. Between Gigha and the opposite coast of
Kintyre there is a regular ferry. The post-office
village of Tayinloan stands near the Kintyre side of
the ferry, 18 miles from Tarbert ; and the Tarbert
and Islay steamer calls regularly at the north end
of Gigha, to communicate with it by boat.
GIGHA and CARA, a parish comprising the
islands of Gigha, Cara, and Gigulum, in Argyle-
shire. Its post-town is Tayinloan. The parish
belongs, in the proportion of 25 and 6, to two pro-
prietors, and contains two mansions, — which, how-
ever, are occupied by tenants. A good deal of agri-
cultural produce, of dairy produce, and of live stock,
and about 50 tons yearly of cured white fish are ex-
ported. Assessed property in 1860, £2,133. Po-
pulation in 1831, 534; in 1861, 467. Houses, 78.
— This parish is in the presbytery of Kintyre, and
synod of Argyle. Patron, the Duke of Argyle,
Stipend, £266 9s. 3d.; glebe, £10. Schoolmas-
ter's salary, £35, with about £12 fees. The par-
ish church was built upwards of seventy years ago,
and contains 260 sittings. There is a Free church
GIGrliT WATER.
1U
GILN0CK1E.
preaching station ; and the sum raised in connexion
with it in 1865 was £12 6s. 114d.
GTGHT CASTLE. See Frvre.
GIGHT WATER, a rivulet of the north of Aber- '
deensliire. It rises a little to the south-east of
Newbyth, and runs about 8 miles southward, chiefly
on parochial boundaries, with Monquhitter and
Fyvie on its right, and New Deer and Methlick on
its left, to a confluence with Kelly water, an affluent
of the Ythan.
GIGHTY BURN, an affluent of Lunan water in
Forfarshire, flowing on the boundary between Kin-
nell and Inverkeilor, and driving several mills.
GIGULUM. See Gigha, Argyleshire.
GILBERTFIELD. See Cambuslang.
GILCOMSTON. See Aberdeen.
GILGAL, a hamlet in the parish of Wamphray,
Dumfries-shire.
GILL BAY, or Port-Gill, a small bay at the
boundary between the parish of Stonykirk and the
parish of Kirkmaiden, indenting the land from the
North Channel, 8J miles south-east by south of
Portpatrick, Wigtonshire.
GILL BURN, a streamlet running in a beautiful
ravine, in the middle part of the parish of Borrow-
stownness, Linlithgowshire.
GILL BURN", a streamlet running north-west-
ward, on the boundary between the parish of Wal-
ston and the parish of Libberton, to the Medwin,
Lanarkshire.
GILL OF CREE. See Cree (The).
GILLS, a village in the parish of Canisbay, 4
miles west by south of John o' Groat's house, Caith-
ness-shire. It stands at the head of Gills bay, which
is an open -triangular indentation of the land, with
a beach of flat rocks and shingles, south- south-
west of the island of Stroma. Population, 1 64.
GILLYBURN, a post-office station, subordinate
to Dunkeld, Perthshire.
GILMANSCLEUGH. See Ettkick (The).
GILMERTON, a post-office village in the parish
of Fowlis-Wester, Perthshire. It stands on the road
from Glasgow to Perth, amidst beautiful scenery,
and is neat, well-bnilt, and of modern erection.
Extending from the village on the east, is a conge-
ries or ridge of gravelly mounds, some of them
covered with thriving plantation, and almost all so
curiously formed and grotesquely grouped as to form
an interesting and remarkable variety of natural
scenery. There is a private school in the village.
Population, 203. Houses, 63.
GILMERTON, a village in the parish of Liberton,
Edinburghshire. It stands on the brow of a rising
ground, 4 miles south-south-east of Edinburgh, on
the road to Roxburghshire. Its main body is a rect-
angle, resting the back of one of its shorter sides on
the west margin of the public road, and running
westward up the gentle slope of the rising ground.
The village is a station of the county police, and
has a chapel of ease and a Free church. The chapel
of ease was built in 1837, and contains about 300
sittings; and it is in the presentation of such male
heads of families as are communicants. The sum
raised in connexion with the Free church in 1865
was £75 15s. 6d. A district around the village was
temporarily, before 1843, a quoad sacra parish, and
had, in 1841, a population of 942. Population of
the village in 1861. 5'J6.
Gihnerton was long characterized as simply a
village of colliers, and as a place whence Edinburgh
was largely supplied with fuel. Its coal — which is
of prime quality — was vigorously worked in 1627,
and possibly was known and carried to market a
century earlier. Persons employed about its coal-
pits, and carters who conveyed the produce to Edin-
burgh, were long the only inhabitants, and latterly
amounted to 800 in number. But, owing partly to
the successful competition of the sources of stipply
along the Dalkeith railway, the mines — though not
exhausted, and though likely to come again into
requisition — have been abandoned. A lime-work
of vast extent in the vicinity, and presenting ap-
pearances highly interesting to the curions, was
probably the oldest in Scotland, at all events was
worked from time immemorial. At first, it was
worked from the surface, and afterwards it was
mined ; and the produce was brought up respectively,
in successive epochs, by women, by asses, and by a
steam-engine. Even the aid of machinery not pre-
venting it from being unremunerating, it was aban-
doned, again worked during the years 1825, 1826,
and 1 827, and again abandoned. The mine or quarry
is nearly a mile in length, and everywhere open to the
light of day. The stratum of limestone dips at an
angle of about 45°. On descending, a spectator finds
himself on a shelving declivity, and, walking along,
is encaverned beneath a roof of solid rocks, which
is supported by a vast series of rocky pillars, left as
props in the process of mining. As the enormous
piazza is very spacious, the roof being high, and the
opening along the extended entrance large, the light
is, for a considerable way, abundant ; but, as the
spectator explores onward, and descends the declivity
toward a stripe of water at the extremity, it gradu-
ally so far fails him as to let a sepulchral obscurity
hang its veil of mystery over the objects of his vision.
The vast colonnaded cavern, instead of proceeding
far inwards, where the rapid dip of the stratum car-
ried the miner at every yard increasingly downward
from the surface, advances obliquely up the side of
a long ridge or hill, and affords the curious visitant
an opportunity of making a lengthened excursion
under ground, without losing the light of day.
At Gihnerton is a remarkable cave, cut, at the
expense of five years' labour, out of the solid rock,
by a blacksmith of the name of George Paterson,
and finished in 1724. Several apartments, several
beds, a large table bearing aloft a punch-bowl, are
all niqely chiselled from the rock, and render the
cave at once dwelling-house and furniture. Several
apertures on the roof were designed as windows to
let in the light from above. The constructor of this
extraordinary subterranean abode had it fitted up
with a well, a washing-house, and a forge, and lived
in it with his family, prosecuting his avocation, till
his death about the year 1735. His cave was, for
many years, esteemed an object of great curiosity,
and even yet is the resort of not a few inquisitive
visitors. Pennecuick, in his works, has left the fol
lowing inscription for the cave:
" Upon the earth thrives villany and woe;
But happiness and I do dwell below.
My hand hewed out this rock into a cell,
Wherein from din of life 1 safely dwell.
On Jacob's pillow nightly lies my head;
My house when living, and my grave when dead.
Inscribe upon it when I'm dead and gone,
'I lived and died within my mother's womb.' "
GILMERTON, .Haddingtonshire. See Athel-
staneeord.
G1LNOGKIE, a small promontory, washed on
the three sides by the river Esk, in the parish of
Canoby, Dumfries-shire ; supposed to have been the
spot whence the famous freebooter, ' Johnie Arm-
strong, Laird of Gilnockie,' had his title. Being steep
and rocky, it is scarcely accessible except on the
land side ; and there it was protected by a deep
ditch. Holehouse or Hollows, the residence of Arm-
strong, is still a considerable ruin. The building is
oblong, 60 feet long, 46 wide, and about 70 high;
GILP.
725
GIRVAN.
and at the angles it has round loop-holed turrets.
Armstrong flourished during ihe reign of James V. ;
and, having levied ' black mail ' from Cumberland,
Westmoreland, and a great part of Northumberland,
he was the terror of the west marches of England.
His power becoming, at last, so great as to hazard
a defiance of the Crown, the King raised an array
for the express purpose of overpowering him, and
marched, at its head, to the parish of Ewes. Arm-
strong was summoned to attend the King there on
a promise of security; and, yielding a ready obe-
dience, he, along with those of his followers who
accompanied him, was, in violation of the royal
pledge, hanged at Caerlanrig.
GILP (Locu), a bay. about 1A mile long, between
the parish of North Knapdale and the parish of
Glassary, Argyleshiiv. It is a branch of Loch- Fyne,
but projects north-westward, so as to be strictly in
line with the main body of that loch coining up
from the north end of Arran, while the proper con-
tinuation of the loch, going oft' toward Inverary,
projects to the north-east. Loeh Gilp is so shallow
as not to be navigable for boats of any considerable
burden during low water; yet it is the place whence
the Crinan canal goes off to join the Atlantic at
Ci'inan bay. See Crinan Canal and Ardkishaig.
GILSTON, Kirkcudbrightshire. See Gelston.
GILSTON, or Backmoor of Gilston, a village on
the northern border of the parish of Largo, 2^ miles
south-east of Ceres, Fifeshire. Population, 229.
Houses. 51.
GIOULY. See Dee (The).
GIRDLENESS, a promontory on the coast of
Kincardineshire, being the southern screen of the
mouth of the river Dee in Nigg parish, and remark-
able as the eastern extremity of the Grampian moun-
tains. It lies 2 miles south from Aberdeen, and 15
north-north-east of Stonehaven ; in N. lat. 57° 8',
and W. long. 2° 3'. Here is a lighthouse, erected
in 1833, with two fixed lights, one above the other,
seen at a distance of 16 and 19 nautical miles, in
clear weather. See Aberdeen.
GIENIGOE CASTLE. See Wick.
GIRTHGATE. See Fat.a.
GIRTHON, a parish, containing the greater part
of the post-town of Gatehouse-of-Fleet, in Kirkcud-
brightshire. It stretches southward in a long
stripe of territory, from the latitude of the centre of
the stewartry, to the coast of Wigton bay. Its
greatest length is 18 miles, and its greatest breadth
7; though, over 8 miles from its southern extremity,
it is nowhere more than 2 J miles broad; and its
superficial area is about 24 square miles. It is
bounded on the north by Kells; on the east by Bal-
magliie and Twynholm ; on the south-east by Borgue ;
and on the west by Fleet bay and Fleet water, which
divide it from Anwoth, and by Kirkmabreck and
Minigaff. All the northern and broader division, 9
or 10 miles in length from the northern boundary,
and also a stripe along the whole of its eastern
verge, are bleak, billy, and clothed in heath. But
a slope toward the Fleet, and a stripe of plain along
the banks of the stream, in the southern division of
the parish, are arable, finely cultivated, and softly
beautiful in aspect. Around Cully, immediately
south of Gatehouse, and at Castramont, 3J miles
above the town, are delightful and somewhat ex-
tensive plantations, unbosoming, in the former case,
the domestic mansion, and, in the latter case, a
hunting-seat of Mr. Murray, the baronial superior
of the town of Gatehouse, and the proprietor of the
whole district. The air and climate are in the up-
lands cold and unpleasant, but in the plain mild and
agreeable. In the northern division are three lakes;
■ — Loch Fleet, 5 furlongs long and 3 furlongs broad,
abounding in trouts, and disgorging one of the two
parent-streams of the Fleet; Loeh Skerrow, jj of a
mile long and half-a-mile broad, abounding in pike;
and Loeh Grannoch, about 3 miles long and half-a
mile broad, remarkable for its char, a species of fish
rare in Scotland. On the eastern boundary, 3 miles
north-east of Gatehouse, is another lake, Loch
Whinnyan, of a circular form, and J of a mile in
diameter, whence the cotton mills of Gatehouse are
supplied, along an artificial canal, with a copious
propelling stream of water. The mansion of Cully
overlooking the Fleet, on one of the most beautiful
parts of its joyous progress, is a large modern edifice,
among the most princely in the south of Scotland.
Four-fifths of the population of the parish, and near-
ly all its trade, manufacture, and importance, are
concentrated in Gatehouse. The southern division
is amply supplied with facilities of communication, —
a canal and the navigable river to Fleet bay, and
the Dumfries and Portpatrick mail-road, besides
divergent roads in every direction; but the northern
division is left almost alone in its mountain-solitude,
with scarcely a path to allow intrusion on its pas-
toral seclusion. The real rental of the parish is
about £5,000. Assessed property in 1860, £7,328.
Population in 1831, 1,751; in 1861, 1,702. Houses,
283.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kirkcud-
bright, and synod of Galloway. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £158 6s. 8d.; glebe, £20. Schoolmaster's
salary, £60, with £80 fees and £16 other emolu
ments. The parish church was built in 1817, and
contains 714 sittings. There is a Free church in
Gatehouse for Girthon and Anwoth: attendance,
260; sum raised in 1865, £475 0s. 6d.- There is
an United Presbyterian church in Gatehouse; but
it stands on the Anwoth side. There are in Girthon
four non-parochial schools. The old church of
Girthon belonged to the bishops of Galloway till
the Reformation, was restored to them during the
brief period of protestant prelacy, and was after-
wards annexed to the Crown. At the passage of
the Fleet, there were in early times a village and
probably a sanctuary. Hence the name Grirth-avon,
of which Girthon is an abbreviation, signifying,
' the Sanctuary on the river.' Edward I. resided
here several days during his Galloway campaign
in 1300.
GIRVAN (The), a river of Carrick, Ayrshire.
It rises in the small lakes, Brecbowie and Breelon,
in the parish of Straiten, 3J miles west of Loch-
Doon. After issuing from the latter of the two
loehlets, it flows two miles northward, and 2J miles
westward, receiving in its progress, the tributes of
Tairlour-burn from the south, nearly equal in
volume to itself, and a smaller brook from the
north. Resuming its northerly course, it receives
two tributaries from the west, and flows 2 miles on-
ward to Straiton, making a graceful bend opposite
the village. Hitherto, its collateral scenery is wild
and cheerless; but now it careers away toward
wooded, undulating, and delightfully varied banks,
and all the way onward to the sea, smiles and
exults amidst the beauties of landscape. Leav-
ing Straiton, it pursues a sinuous course 3 miles
north-westward to the village of Kirkmichael,
frolicking along the fine demesne of Blairquhan,
the seat of Sir David Hunter Blair, and at one place
wheeling round upon its path bo as to form a con-
siderable islet. From Kirkmichael to a point op-
posite the farm-stead of Barklaye, it achieves a dis-
tance of 1J mile westward, over a south-westward,
westward, north-eastward and north-westward
course of picturesqueness and loveliness of scenery.
From this point to the sea at the town of Gi'r
GIRVAN.
726
GIRVAN.
van, over a sinuous course of 13 miles, it runs, in
general, toward the south-west, performing many
a beautiful evolution, seeming to ran mirthfully
round peninsulas and rising grounds, to enjoy the
richest adornings of bank, and nowhere receiving
larger tributes than the waters of little brooks. A
mile below Barklaye, it flows past the village of
Crossbill; and while passing along the fine vale of
Dailly parish, it enlivens the aspect of the mansions
and parks of Drumburl, Dalquhan-an, Balgany.
and Kellochan. Dalquharrau castle, in particular,
receives from it much enrichment of landscape, and
repays with interest all it receives. This elegant
pile, castellated at the angles, buttressed all the
way up, and finally surmounted by a capacious
circular tower, was built about the year 1790, and
is one of the handsomest mansions in the west of
Scotland. The Girvan's entire length of course, in-
cluding windings, is about 25 miles.
GIRVAN, a parish, containing a post-town of its
own name, on the coast of Carrick, Ayrshire. It
is bounded on the north by Kirkoswald; on the east
by Dailly and Barr; on the south by Colmonell;
and on the west by the frith of Clyde. It measures
in extreme length, from north to south, 9 miles; in
extreme breadth, 6 miles; in minimum breadth, 2
miles; and in superficial area, 19,000 acres. A
ridge of almost mountainous hills runs, from the sea
not far from the southern extremity, north-eastward
through the parish, and sends off spurs, or has par-
allel elevations, on its south-east side. The south-
ern district is, in consequence, chiefly pastoral; yet
its hills are for the most part covered with verdure,
and, even in instances where they are heathy, they
have patches and intermixtures of grass. The
diagonal hill-range, as seen from the town of Gir-
van, presents an imposing aspect, and sends up its
summits seldom less than 900 feet above the level
of the sea, and, in one instance, 1 ,200 feet. The
northern division has a considerable proportion of
flat ground, but is beautified with elevations, and,
on the whole, wears a tumulated appearance; yet
it is finely cultivated, and rich in the properties of
agricultural worth. The soil, though very various,
is, in general, a dry light mould, on a sandy or gra-
velly bottom. The coast- line, upwards of 8 miles
in length, is over one-third of the distance bold and
rooky, and over two-thirds of it fiat; and in the
latter and larger part, the beach is strewn with
large whinstones, and, at the recess of the tide,
is extensively carpeted with sea-weed. Several
brooks rise in the central and southern uplands,
and flow respectively to Girvan water and the sea.
The most considerable is Lendal-burn, which joins
the sea at Carlton-bay; and another, called the
Assel, flows along the eastern margin, to fall into
Stinchar water in Colmonell. The climate of the
parish is much more moist than that of the inland
or eastern parts of Scotland, and moister still in the
upland division of it than in the plain. Coal,
though abundant in the neighbouring parish of
Dailly, does not seem to stretch within the limits
of Gii-van. Limestone is plentiful in the eastern
division, and has long been somewhat extensively
worked. Excellent copper-ore has been found, and
is supposed to exist in considerable quantity. Pud-
clingstone is the most plentiful rock, and stretches
for a considerable distance along the beach. Whin-
stone, both grey and blue, occurs with sufficient
frequency to furnish materials for all the local
buildings. Gypsum, shell marl, and tile clay have
been found; and the last is employed in a vigorous
tile-work. Only a small number of acres is under
plantation; and nowhere, excepting a few patches
of brushwood, is there any natural forest. Nearly
one half of the parish belongs to the Due de Coigny,
and the rest is distributed among nine landowners.
The real rental is at least £1 2,000. The yearly value
of raw agricultural produce was estimated in 1837
at £23,302. Assessed property in 1860, £18,675.
Vestiges of five camps are traceable, all near
the sea, and one of them distinguished by an en-
cincturing of two parallel ditches. The parish
is traversed, along the shore, by the road between
Glasgow and Portpatrick, and, along its eastern
verge, by a road between Old Dailly and Ballantrae.
Population in 1831, 6,430; in 1861,7,053. Houses,
1,122.
This parish is in the presbytery of Ayr, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £280 18s. 8d.; glebe, £20. Unappropriated
teinds, £153 9s. Id. The parish church was built
about the year 1770, and enlarged by the addition
of an aisle about 30 years later, and contains 850
sittings. There is a Free church congregation; and
the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was
£181 17s. 3d. The United Presbyterian church was
built in 1814, and contains 549 sittings. The other
places of worship are a Reformed Presbyterian, a
Reforming Protestant, an Episcopalian, and a
Roman Catholic. The parochial school yields
its master £40 of salary, with about £80 fees,
and £28 10s. other emoluments; and is attended
by a large number of scholars, 40 of whom are
poor children taught free. There are also a Free
church school, a young ladies' boarding school, a
charity school, an infant school, and several other
schools. — The church of Girvan, like several other
churches in Ayrshire, was dedicated to St. Cuthbert,
— peculiarly a Saxon saint; and seems therefore
not to have been older than the end of the 11th
century, when Ayrshire, after the change of the
Scottish government, was brought completely under
the influence of the Anglo-Saxon settlers. The
church was granted to the monks of Crossraguel,
and remained in their possession till the Reforma-
tion ; and it was served by a vicar, under the sur-
veillance of the bishop of Glasgow. In the ancient
parish of Girvan — which was much larger than the
present — were several chapels. In the south of it,
on an eminence overlooking the Stinchar, about 2
miles west-south-west from the present church of
Barr, stood the chapel of Kirkdominas, dedicated to
the Holy Trinity. The ruins still remain, and com-
memorate the name; and they serve also to give a
rallying-point and a designation to a great annual
fair, called Kirkdomina? fair, held on the last Satur-
day of May. In the north of the parish, on the
lands of Cragach, near the coast, upward of 1J mile
north-north-east of the town of Girvan, stood Cha-
pel-Donan, dedicated to a Scottish saint, called
Donan, of the 9th century. Both this chapel and
the former one were, like the parish-church, in the
hands of the Crossraguel monks. In 1617, the
patronage of Girvan, with other property of Cross-
raguel, was annexed to the see of Dunblane; but,
on the abolition of episcopacy in 1689, it was vested
in the Crown. In 1653, the south-east part of the
ancient parish, lying on the river Stinchar, was de-
tached and made a part of the new parish of Barr;
but, at the same ctate, Girvan received some ac-
cessions of territory, both on the north and on the
south.
The Town of Girvan stands at the mouth of Gir-
van water, 12 miles south-south-west of Maybole,
13 north-north-east of Ballantrae, and 21 south by
west of Ayr. It was originally called Invergarvan,
in allusion to Girvan water, which was formerly
called the Garvan. The town extends along the
sea- side, southward from the river, directly opposite
GLADNEY.
727
GLADSMUIR.
Ailsa Craig, and commands a magnificent view of
tlie frith of Clyde, and its gorgeous encineturing
scenery. But as to its interior landscape, or the
appearance and grouping of its streets, it is utterly
unworthy of its splendid site. Heron, in t^ie narra-
tive of his Scottish tour, in 1793, though sufficiently
prompt and liberal in his praises whenever an object
not positively displeasing met his eye, describes the
town as then in so miserable a plight that he was
obliged to move onward to Kirkoswald to find a
night's lodging; and he says respecting Girvan :
" The houses are huts more miserable than those of
Ballantrae. They are so low as to seem, at the
south end of the village, rather caves dug in the
earth, than houses built upon it. On the north-west
side, and close upon the banks of the river, are, in-
deed, some more decent and commodious houses."
The place is exceedingly improved since the period
when Heron wrote. Still it is far inferior in neat-
ness and dignity to many Scottish towns of its size;
and, with a small aggregate proportion of excep-
tions, consists of cottages one story high, distributed
into a workshop and a dwelling-room, — the latter,
in many instances, being occupied by two or even
three families. Even the recently built erections
are, in a large proportion of instances, small houses,
occupied by the lowest order of immigrant Irish,
who come hither in search of employment in cotton-
weaving. The whole population, with inconsider-
able exceptions, are cotton - weavers and their
families. The number of hand-looms, including a
few in the vicinity, was, in 1S38, no fewer than 1 ,800.
The fabrics woven are almost all coarse cottons for
the manufacturers of Glasgow.
Girvan harbour, till very recently, with from 9 to
11 feet of water at the mouth of the river, admitted
only vessels of small burden ; but itis now so far im-
proved as to admit of a steamer of from 90 to 100
feet keel, and to afford some facility for the expor-
tation of coals and agricultural produce. The small
bay at the embouchure of the river is an excellent
fishing station ; but though capable of yielding an
abundant produce, of great variety and of prime
quality, it has not been well-plied. Steamers sail
regularly to Stranraer, Ayr. and Glasgow; coaches
run to Stranraer and Wigton; and a railway
connects Girvan, through Mavbole, with tin;
Glasgow and South-western system. The town
lias an office of the Union Bank,' the National Bank,
the Commercial Bank, the Royal Bank, and the
City of Glasgow Bank, eight insurance agen-
cies, a mechanics' institute, and several friendly
societies. A market is held weekly ; and fairs are
held on the last Monday of April and of October.
Girvan is a burgh- of-barony under the proprietor of
Bargany. It received its first charter in 1 696, but
did not begin to enjoy burgh privileges till 1785;
and now it enjoys these in the same manner as other
burghs-of-barony. It has public sources ofincome,
yielding an yearly revenue of about £150. Its
council comprises two bailies and twelve other
members. Courts under the small debt act are held
in it three times a-year, in March, July, and No-
vember. Populationin 1836, 5,300; in 1861, 5,921.
Houses, 923.
GIZZEN BRIGS. Sec Doekoch Frith.
GLADHOUSE WATER. See Temple.
GLADNEY, a village in the southern extremity
of the parish of Cupar, Fifeshire. Population, 195.
Houses, 45.
GLADSMUIR, a parish, containing the post-
office villages of Gladsmuir, Longniddry. and Sam-
uelston, also the village of Penston, in Haddington-
shire. It is bounded by the frith of Forth, and by
the parishes of Abciiady, Haddington, S.alton, Pen-
caitlaud, anil Tranent. Its length southward is
fully five miles ; its breadth is 4 miles ; and its area
is about 10 square miles. From the frith of Forth
on the north-west, and from the boundary-line on
the south-east, the surface gently rises to a central
ridge of inconsiderable height. The top of this
ridge, originally an open moor, was for ages inces-
santly pared of its turf by the neighbouring inhabi-
tants. The soil, in this central part, is, in conse-
quence, clayey and shallow, yet has recently been
so improved as to be brought into a state of good
cultivation; and, in other districts, especially astripe
running eastward about 1A mile from the coast, it is
very fertile, and, at an early period, produced rich
crops, and bore a high value. A fir-plantation of
nearly 160 acres occurs in the south ; and belts or
patches of oak, beech, elm. ash, birch, chestnut, and
other species, adorn and shelter, at intervals, nearly
the whole surface. The coast — onl}r about a mile
in length — is rocky, and sends into the sea termi-
nating strata which vex the waters in a breeze, and
look out from their surface at the efflux of the tide.
The Tyne, which forms the southern boundary-line
for about 1A mile, is here a pleasing stream of in-
considerable volume, but of value in giving water-
power to grain-mills. Marshes — though formerly
such as to give almost a distinctive feature to the
district — have quite disappeared, and left in their
stead luxuriant fields. The air is pure, dry, and
very healthy. Coal is very abundant, and, in the
vicinity of the village of Penston, in the southern
division, seems to have been worked for five cen-
turies. The seam, in some places, is from four to
five feet thick, and of prime quality. Limestone
occurs in various parts, and, in two places, is worked.
Freestone, suitable for building, is everywhere abun-
dant. The working of iron was at one time car-
ried on for a short while, and relinquished; and now
it is about to be resumed on a very extensive scale
at Macmerry, on the western border, 1A mile from
Tranent; where works have just been built on a
plan to employ no fewer than about a thousand
hands. Fire clay is abundant. The landowners are
the Earl of Wemyss, the Earl of Haddington, the
Earl of Hopetoun, Baillie of Lamington, and four
others. A circular mound a few feet high, in the
vicinity of the recently obliterated Laird's dyke and
the Laird's garden, indicates the site of the residence
of the Douglases of Longniddry, who acted so dis
tinguished a part in the Reformation, and invited
John Knox to their mansion when he was driven
away from St. Andrews. The modern mansions are
Redcoll, Elvingston, and Southfield. The village
of Gladsmuir, or Kirktown, stands on the eastern
verge of the parish, on the highest point of the ridge
between Tranent and Haddington, 4 miles west by
south of the latter. The culmination of the ground
here, about 350 feet above sea-level, commands a
superb panoramic view of the Forth, Fifeshire, and
the Lothians, and is remarkable for thunder storms,
one of which in 1789, burst upon the schoolhouse,
and killed two of the children. The great road from
Edinburgh to Berwick traverses this ridge ; and the
North British railway passes midway between this
and the frith, has a station at Longniddry, and sends
off here its branch to Haddington. George Heriot,
the celebrated founder of the hospital which bears
his name in Edinburgh, is thought by some to have
been a native of Gladsmuir, and, at all events, was
the descendant of a family of some antiquity who
resided at Trabourn within its limits. Dr. Robert-
son, the historian, commenced his ministry in Glads-
muir, and, while incumbent of the parish, wrote the
greater part of his History of Scotland. The aver-
age yearly value of the raw agricultural produce of
GLAISSEAN.
728
GLAMMIS.
the parish was estimated in 1836 at about £30,000.
Assessed property in 1860, £4,845. Population in
1831, 1,658; in 1861, 1,945. Houses, 391.
This parish is in the presbytery of Haddington,
and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patrons, the
Crown and the Earl of Hopetoun. Stipend, £313
3s. 5d.; glebe, £9. Unappropriated teinds, £22
16s. Schoolmaster's salary, £60, with £32 fees,
and £30 other emoluments. The parish church was
recently rebuilt in a very handsome style, and con-
tains 750 sittings. There are four private schools,
an itinerating library, and two friendly societies.
Gladsmuir parish was formed, in 1695, by abstrac-
tions from the neighbouring parishes of Haddington,
Aberlady, and Tranent. A church built, in 1650,
at Thrieplaw near the southern verge of the parish,
was abandoned on the erection of the parish, and
has entirely disappeared. Another church, the pre-
decessor of the present, was built in 1695 at the vil-
lage of Gladsmuir. The ruins of an old chapel,
called John Knox's kirk, because the great reformer
occasionally preached in it, stand a little east of
the village of Longniddry.
GLAIDNEY. See Gladxey.
GLAISSEAN (Loch), a lake in the moors of
Glassary, whence flows the stream which enters the
sea at Crinan, in Argyleshire.
GLAMA1G, a mountain on the south side of Loch
Rligichan, in the island of Skye. It is nearly as
high as the famous Cuchullin mountains in its
vicinity, and at its top is a green plot of consider-
able extent, refreshed by a copious perennial spring.
GLAMMIS, a parish in the south-western parts
of the Strathmore and Sidlaw districts of Forfar-
shire. It contains the post-town of Glammis, and
the villages of Charleston, Newton, Milton, Thorn-
ton, Grasshouscs of Thornton, Dramglcy, and
Arnifoul. It is bounded by the parishes of Kirrie-
muir, Forfar, Kinnettles, Inverarlty, Tealing, Auch-
terhouse, Newtyle, Eassie, Nevay, and Aiiiie. Its
form is, in general, ellipsoidal, the greater diameter
extending south and north ; but it makes projections
on the south and south-west, and sends off a con-
siderable stripe north-eastward from its northern
extremity. Its greatest length is 7 J miles; its
greatest breadth is 5£ miles ; and its area is some-
thing less than 15,000 imperial acres. The north-
ern division, consisting mainly of the eastward
projecting stripe, and measuring 4J miles east and
west by an average of one mile north and south, is a
gentle undulated surface, all whose little softly fea-
tured summits are of nearly equal elevation. From
this division, which is marked off along its southern
limit by the river Dean, the surface, commencing at
the bank of that stream, rises by a smooth and
gentle ascent southward till, near the middle of the
parish, it heaves up in the lower or flanking ridge
of the Sidlaws, running south-westward and north-
eastward over a length of 4 miles, having an average
breadth of one mile, and lifting its summits from
500 to 700 feet above the level of the sea. South of
this softly hilly ridge, three parallel ranges of hill
stretch away to the boundary enclosing two plains
called Denoon glen and Glen-Ogilvie, and terminat-
ing in the highest summits of the Sidlaws, from 1,000
to 1 ,500 feet above sea-level. In the northern division
the soil is, in general, light sandy or gravelly loam,
occasionally interspersed with clay and moss, but
is somewhat unfertile; along the Dean southward,
it is a deep alluvial brown loam, of very productive
quality ; toward the central ridge, it is a brown and
a black loam upon an unretentive subsoil, partly
fertile and partly not very productive ; in the glens
of Denoon and Ogilvie, it is somewhat extensively
a good, sharp, gravelly loam ; but, on the hills, it
generally gives place to moorland clothed in heath.
More than one-half of the entire parish is arable ;
more than one-fourth is in pasture ; and about 1,600
acres are under plantation.
The western end of the Loch of Forfar, which here
is now an inconsiderable stripe of water, extends,
for a brief space, along the southern limit of the
northern projection ; and previous to its being drain-
ed, it covered twice the extent of its present bed.
Issuing from this loch, Dean water, for 2 miles, con-
tinues the boundary, and then for two miles more
intersects the body of the parish ; and all the way
is a deep and sluggish brook. Glammis burn rises
in the hill of Auchterhouse at the extreme southern
boundary, traverses the whole length of Glen-Ogil-
vie, cuts its way through the central hilly ridge, and
joins the Dean on the demesne of Glammis castle,
thus intersecting the parish over nearly 6 miles of
its length, and cutting it lengthways into two not
very unequal parts. Kerbet or Eassie burn rises
on the west side of the hill of Auchterhouse, within
the parish of the same name, enters Glammis § of
a mile from its source, traverses Denoon glen, forms,
for about a mile, the boundary-line with Eassie, and
then passes into that parish to pay its tiny tribute
to the Dean. Both this brook and the Glammis
abound with fine red trout. The climate, formerly
moist and not very healthy, is now, in consequence
of extensive draining in the course of agricultural
improvement, dry and salubrious. Sandstone of
close granulation and in thin and easily separable
strata, producing the slabs which are locally used
as a succedaneum for slates, and also the admired
paving-stone known under the name of the Arbroath
stone, is very abundant, and extensively quarried.
About sixty years ago a small lead mine on the
banks of a rivulet near Glammis was discovered, but
the quantity of ore obtained did not repay the ex-
pense of working. Shell marl, of great value in
agriculture, has been taken up in large quantities
from some mosses in the northern division, and
especially from the Loch of Forfar. The greater part
of the parish belongs to the Earl of Strathmore and
Lord Douglas; and the rest is divided between two
proprietors. The value of assessed property in 1866
was £14,995. The parish is traversed by the Scottish
Midland Junction railway-, and has a station on it ;
and is traversed also by the road from Perth to
Aberdeen, and by that from Kirriemuir to Dundee.
Population in 1831, 1,999; in 1851,2,152. Houses,
412.
Within a few yards of the manse stands an obelisk,
of rude design, erected, as is generally supposed, in
memory of the murder of Malcolm II., king of ScoN
land. On one side of it are figures of two men, who,
by their attitude, seem to be forming the bloody
conspiracy. A lion and a centaur, on the upper
part, represent the barbarity of the crime. On the
reverse, fishes of several sorts appear; a symbol of
Loch Forfar, in which, by missing their way, the
assassins were drowned. In a neighbouring field
is another small obelisk or stone on which are de-
lineated various symbolical characters similar to
those of the larger obelisk, and supposed to be in-
tended as representations of the same facts. At a
mile's distance from the village of Glammis, near a
place called Gossans, is a third obelisk, vulgarly
styled St. Orland's stone, still more curious than
the others, and possibly akin to them in object.
On one side is a cross rudely flowered and chequer-
ed ; on the other, four men on horseback appear to
be pursuing their way with the utmost possible
speed, while the horse of one of them is trampling
under foot a wild boar; and on the lower part of
the stone is the figure of an animal somewhat like
GLAMMIS.
729
GLASGOW.
a dragon. Though no probable decipherment has
been made of these symbols, they have been con-
jectured to represent the officers of justice in pur-
suit of Malcolm's murderers. Two miles south-
west from Glammis, in Deuoon glen, on the summit
of a solitary basaltic hill, overlooking the extensive
vale of Strathmore, is a fortification, called Denoon
castle, supposed to have been designed as a place of
retreat in seasons of danger. A circular wall, be-
lieved to have been 27 feet high and 30 broad, and
perforated with two entries, one on the south-east
and the other on the north-west, is carried round a
circumference of about 340 English yards, and en-
closes faint though evident traces of interior build-
ings.
But the chief work of antiquity in the parish is
the venerable and majestic pile, called Glammis
c istle, the property of the Earl of Strathmore, and
his principal seat in Scotland. The edifice is very
ancient, but has at various periods undergone im-
portant alterations. The central part of it is a
tower, upwards of 100 feet high. At one of its
angles is another tower, with a spiral staircase;
and on its top are numerous small turrets with
conical roofs. The wings are either altogether or
chiefly of modern erection. They are four in num-
ber, and project toward different points of the com-
pass. The principal avenue stretches from the
castle to the ■village, a distance of more than a
mile, and was anciently conducted under three
several gateways. It must have been a noble spe-
cimen of our ancient architecture, before the wings
were taken down, with the view of rebuilding them
in another form. Pennant — who has given a draw-
ing of it as it formerly stood — says: "The whole
consisted of two long courts, divided by buildings.
In each was a square tower, and gateway beneath;
and in the third, another tower, which constitutes
the present house, the rest being totally destroyed."
It is commonly related, that the son of James VII.,
when he visited Scotland, a.d. 1715, to reclaim the
throne which his father had thrown away " for a
mass," having lodged here, declared that he had
seen no castle on the continent which might be
compared with it. This castle seems to have been
the residence of Malcolm II. Here, at least, our
chroniclers say he was slain, about the year 1031.
I'inkerton contends that he died a natural death ;
but both Boece and Fordun assert that he was mur-
dered; and tradition still pretends to point out a
passage in the castle where the bloody act was per-
petrated; nor is it less positive in affirming that his
murderers, as the ground was covered with frost
and snow, having unconsciously, in their flight, en-
tered on the Loch of Forfar, all perished in it.
That good antiquary, Sir James Dalrymple, evi-
dently viewed this as one of the palaces of our
kings; for, speaking of the pretended laws of this
same Malcolm, he says : " Albeit it be said that the
king gave all away, yet it is not to be thought but
that he retained, with his royal dignity, his eastles
and other places of residence, as at Fort-teviot,
Glames. and Kincardin." Glammis, we need hardly
remark, is famous for Shakspeare's histrionic notice
of it as the thanedom of the usurper Macbeth.
This parish is in the presbytery of Forfar, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Earl of
Strathmore. Stipend, £307 18s. Id.; glebe, £16 10s.
Unappropriated teinds, £20 17s. 4d. Schoolmaster's
salary. £60. with £25 fees, and £10 other emo-
luments. The parish church is an elegant edi-
fice, built about 20 years ago, and containing 850
sittings. There are three non-parochial schools,
two friendly soeieties, and a subscription library.
The Village of Glammis stands at the intersec-
tion of the road from Perth to Aberdeen with the
road from Dundee to Kirriemuir, ^ a mile south of
Dean Water, 12 miles north by west of Dundee,
and 28 by railway north-east of Perth. Glannnio
bum, in a deep, romantic, rocky gorge, in the vici-
nity of the village, first makes a fall and then
rushes rapidly along, emitting an obstructed sound;
and this, Dr. Lyon, the new statist of the parish,
suggests as the origin of the name Glammis, which
he represents as meaning a noise caused by ob-
struction. The village consists of two sections,
an old and a new, which stand a little way apart
from each other. There is a flax factory on Glam
mis burn. Many of the inhabitants of the village,
and of the tract of country around it, are employed
in the manufacture of brown linen. The village is
adorned with the handsome parish church, and has
also a neat public edifice, containing the halls of the
masons' and the gardeners' societies. It is a sta-
tion of the county constabulary; and it has an inn,
and is a small centre of traffic for part of Strath-
more. It gives the title of Baron Glammis to the
Earl of Strathmore's eldest son. Population, about
650.
GLANAMEE. See Sanda.
GLANDHALL. See Cadder.
GLASCHOIEEN, a mountain, of 1.020 feet of
altitude, in the parish of Ardnamurchan, Argylo
shire.
GLASFOED. See Glassford.
GLASGOW,
The commercial and manufacturing capital of Scot-
land, and in point of wealth and population, proba-
bly the second or third city of the empire, is situ-
ated in the lower ward or division of the county of
Lanark, on both banks of the Clyde, but chiefly on
the north side of that river ; in latitude 55° 51' 32"
North ; and in longitude 4° 17' West of Greenwich.
By the old mail turnpike road, it is 43 miles
west of Edinburgh, 23 east of Greenock, 34 north-
north-east of Ayr, 79 north-north-west of Dumfries,
by way of Kilmarnock, New Cumnock, and San
quhar, and 396 miles north-west by north of Lon-
don. By railway it is 47J miles from Edinburgh,
22A from Greenock, 40 from Ayr, 92 from Dum-
fries, and 405 from London. Many dissertations
have been written as to the origin of a name which
is now a familiar word over the civilized world ; but
as the most learned and plausible of these still leave
the question in doubt, it would be idle here to en-
ter into the controversy regarding these early and
misty derivations. It is enough to sa}' that Glas-
gow, unlike many of the populous and enterprising
towns of the present day, has a history to boast of,
which proves it to have been a place of consideration
and importance even in those remote times when
trade and commerce may be said to have been un-
known.
Sistory.
Early History. — The Eomans had a station on the
river Clyde at this spot; and the remains of a cam])
may still be traced on the lands of " Camphill," near
the battle ground of Langside, about two miles to the
south of the city. The wall of Antoninus, extend-
ing between the friths of Forth and Clyde, and
nearly parallel to which tK, .ine of the Edinburgh
and Glasgow railway runs for several miles, em-
braced the province of Valentia, in which Glasgow
is situated. Though often harassed by the inroads
of the Caledonians, the Eomans did not abandon this
station till sometime about the year 426, when they
took their final leave of this island to defend the
GLASGOW.
730
GLASGOW
Eternal City,' which was then assailed by the
barbarous tribes by whom the Roman empire was
eventually overthrown. The city undoubtedly owes
its origin to the religious establishment which was
planted on this spot in very remote times. Accord-
ing to a tradition which was believed even in the
twelfth century, the ground on which the cathedral
stands, was hallowed, so early as the beginning of
the fifth century, for Christian burial, by St. Ninian
of Galloway ; but it is presumed that the partially
converted tribes had relapsed into heathenism, and
that the cemetery became neglected or forgotten.
Almost all historians concur in stating, however,
that an establishment or see was established here
not later than the year 580, by St. Kentigern, a
holy man of princely birth. He was the son (by
an illicit intercourse) of Ewan Eufurien, King of
Cumbria, and of Thenaw, daughter of Loth, King
of Lothian. Many miraculous circumstances are
said to have attended his birth and prefigured his
future renown. His mother, on the discovery of
her dishonour, was put into a frail skiff on the
Lothian shore, which was drifted to Culross, on the
northern bank of the frith of Forth. Here St. Serf,
or Servan, a disciple of St. Palladius, had established
a little monastery, and here the infant, to whom
the erring Thenaw gave birth, received his nurture,
and was taught the rudiments of the faith. He
received the name of Kentigern, but was known
also and better, especially in later times, by that of
Mungo, though the reasons on account of which lie
received this second appellation have not been
accurately ascertained. According to Spottiswoode
and others, the generally received opinion is that
being a great favourite with his preceptor, Servan,
the youth was designated by him by the endearing
and familiar name of Mongah, which, in the Celtic
tongue, signifies ' dear friend ' — whence the ' Mungo '
by which he and the see he founded, are most gene-
rally known. When he came to the years of matu-
rity he departed secretly from Culross, and guided
by a miraculous portent, took up his abode on the
spot where the Cathedral church of Glasgow is now
built. Here he planted an infant church, which
was honoured by a visit from St. Columba, the
apostle of the Highlands. The interview between
him and St. Kentigern took place on the banks of
the Molendinar; and many circumstances which
attended it are still preserved, together with a bar-
barous hymn in Latin, which the abbot of Iona is
said to have written in honour of the founder of the
see of Cumbria or Strathclyde.
St. Kentigern, in his early career, endured a life
of much vicissitude, and was driven from his infant
establishment by the hostility of the heathen chief
of Cumbria. He took refuge in Wales, where he
sojourned some years, and founded the bishopric
which still bears the name of his disciple Si.
Asaph. Under the rule of King Redruth, however,
lie was recalled to Glasgow, and as the return-
ing prophet approached his old residence he was
met by a mighty concourse of chiefs and people.
He began to preach the word of God to them, but
as the throng was so great, only those in the imme-
diate vicinity could catch the sound of his voice ;
when, lo, by a signal miracle, the earth on which
he stood was instantly upheaved into a little knoll
or hillock, when he was seen and heard with ease
by the assembled thousands. This legend, it has
been supposed, gave rise to the well-known motto
of the city — ' Let Glasgow flourish by the preach-
in"- of the Word.' In Roman Catholic times this
spot was commemorated by a church called ' Little
St. Mungo's Kirk,' the site of which might have
been traced until recently on the Dowhill, on the
north side of the Gallowgate. From this time St.
Kentigern passed his days in peace. He died at
Glasgow about the year 601, in extreme old age,
and was buried in the church which he founded,
and which was hallowed by the belief in his many
miracles. The life of St. Kentigern has been writ-
ten by more than one of the eminent fathers of the
Roman Catholic church. So much was his piety
held in esteem that many churches and chapels
were dedicated to him in various parts of the king-
dom; and the affectionate credulity of a simple
people, and a rude age, ascribed to him a thousand
miracles. One of the most memorable may be told
in the following words: — The Queen of Cadyow
chanced, once on a time, to lose a ring which had
been presented to her by her husband, as a token of
his affection. The resentment or jealousy of her
lord was about to put her to death, when, in her
great distress, the lady applied to the holy man,
imploring his interposition for the recovery of the
ring. Shortly afterwards, St. Kentigern, while
walking on the banks of the Clyde, as was his cus-
tom, after his devotions, desired that the first fish
which was taken from the river should be brought
to him ; this was done, and in the mouth of the
salmon was found the identical ring which had
caused the lady's disquietude, and was now the
means of its removal. This legend is still comme-
morated in the arms of the city of Glasgow, along
with some others of his more notable miracles.*
The patron saint is said to have been succeeded
by St. Baldred; but subsequent to his death, the
records of the see wholly disappear, and for a period
of 500 years, we have neither historical nor credible
traditional data regarding it. Little doubt may ex-
ist that the sanctity pertaining to the resting place
of the bones of so holy a man would for a time keep
the establishment together, and draw around it the
village which became the nucleus of the future city.
The small community is believed to have suffered
from the incursions of the Danes, and also from
reivers nearer home upon whom the mantle of Chris-
tianity was as yet very loosely adjusted. In the
terse terms of M'Ure (the quaint and earliest his
torian of Glasgow) — " After St. Mungo, for many
ages, the Episcopal see was over-run with heathen-
ism and barbarity till the reign of Alexander I."f
* The arms of the city of Glasgow show a tree with a bird
perched in its boughs; on one side a salmon with a ring in its
mouth ; and on the other, a bell.
The salmon and the ring are the emblems of the miraculous
recovery of the love-pledge of the frail Qneen of Cadyow.
The tree is a token of a miracle which St. Kentigern wrought
at Culross, when the lamps of the monastery Raving been ex
tinguished, he tore a frozen bough from a neighbouring haze!,
and, making the sign of the cross over it, instantly kindled it
into flame
The bird represents a tame robin, a favourite of St. Serf,
which', having been accidentally killed, anil torn lo pieces by his
disciples at Culross, was miraculously brought to life again by
St. Kentigern.
The bell commemorates a famous bell which was brought
from Rome by St. Kentigern, and was preserved in Glasgow
until the Reformation, if not, indeed, to a more recent period. It
was called St Mungo's bell, and was tolled through the city to
warn the inhabitants to pray for the soul's repose of the departed.
All these tokens, as has been shown by recent researches, appear
first in the seals of the bishops of Glasgow, in the twelfth and
thirteenth centuries, from which they were transferred to the
common seal of the city, in the beginning of the fourteenth
century.— See the preface to the ' Liber Collegia Nostre Donihie
Glasguensis,' edited by Mr. Joseph Robertson, and presented to
the Maitland Club by the late Marquis of Bute.— See also the
• Missa S. Kentigemi,' in the Maitland Club Miscellany, vol. iv.,
part 1st, edited by Mr. Robertson.
t ThelateMr. M'Lcllan, in his able and ingenious 'Essay on lite
Cathedral church ot Glasgow,' appends the following interesting
note:—" There is, with this total eclipse of our own sec, a singular
coincidence in that of Lichfield, of which from the year 7u0— end-
ing witli the episcopacy of Bishop Hedda — there is no record till
we find it revived, under the presidency of Roger de Clinton, in
GLASGOW.
731
GLASGOW.
The undoubted light of history again breaks in in
the early part of the twelfth century, when in 1116,
1 lavid, Prince of Cumbria, and brother of Alexander
I. of Scotland, re-founded the see, and promoted his
preceptor and Chancellor John (commonly called
Achaius), to the bishopric. This prelate was a man
of learning and ability, who had travelled in foreign
parts, and had been specially noticed by Pope Pas-
chal II., to whom his merits were well known. He
reconstructed or rather rebuilt, partly with stone, the
then existing edifice, which had become an ignoble
building; and after having been personally conse-
crated in Italy, he himself consecrated the new
Cathedral on the 7th July, 1136, in the presence of
his royal pupil, who was now David King of Scots.
In addition to former gifts, the prince, upon his ac-
cession to the throne, made large additional dona-
tions to the establishment, and at its consecration,
he further conferred upon it the lands of Perdeyc,
[Partick] which still form part of the episcopal re-
venue— though now in the hands of the University
— and where subsequent prelates erected a rural
retreat, near the mouth of the Kelvin, the ruins of
which existed in the memory of persons still living.
According to the ' Registrum Episcopates Glas-
guensis,' edited by Mr. Cosmo Innes, "the King,
David I., gave to the church the land of Perdeyc
[Partick], which was soon afterwards erected, along
with the church of Guvan [Govan] into a prebend of
the Cathedral. In addition to the long list of pos-
sessions restored to Glasgow upon the verdict of the
assize of inquest, this saintly King granted to the
bishop the church of Renfrew ; Guvan with its
, church; the church of Cadihon [Cadzow] ; the tithe
of his cane or duties paid in cattle and swine through-
out Strathgrif, Cuningham, Kyle, and Carrick ;
and the eighth penny of all pleas of court throughout
Cumbria (which included the greater part of Scot-
land south of the Forth and Clyde, as well as the
English county of Cumberland). The bishop also
acquired the church of Lochorwort, near Borthwick,
in Lothian, from the bishop of St. Andrews — the
King and prince present and consenting." David,
the sainted son of St. Margaret, was doubtless the
greatest benefactor known to the annals of the see
of Glasgow ; but his pious zeal gifted away so many
of the royal possessions, that one of his successors
said with some bitterness that he had been "ane sair
sanct for the croon." Bishop John died in May
1147, at an advanced age, after having held the see
for the long period of 32 years, although only for
eleven years after the building and consecration of
the new Cathedral.
Subsequent to the death of John, Bishops Herbert
and Ingleram filled the see. The latter was suc-
ceeded by Joceline, abbot of the Cistercian monas-
tery of Melrose, and was consecrated at Clairvaux
in France, on 1st June 1175, by Esceline the Pope's
legate. He is reputed on all hands to have been
a worthy and liberal-minded prelate, and the works
which he has left behind him amply prove it. The
church built by Bishop John was destroyed by fire
within a period of 40 years after its consecration,
and Joceline set himself zealously to build upon a
new and extended plan the Cathedral church of
Glasgow. He invoked aid from the pious all over
Europe, and his appeal was so generously answered
that the present beautiful crypt was consecrated in
1 1 97, on the octave of St. Peter and St. Paul — three
bishops taking part in the rite. The merit has also
been assigned to Joceline of having built the super-
incumbent choir and Lady chapel ; but recent re-
in's, leaving a blank of 428 years, in precisely the same era as
nur own."
searches show that these were only commenced by
him, and were completed by his successors. Still
the honour belongs to him of being the founder oi
the existing magnificent and venerable structure ;
for it has now been accurately ascertained that no
part of the church built by Bishop John remains
above the ground. Joceline is also held in happy
remembrance, from his having obtained from King
William the Lion, about 1180, a charter, constitut-
ing the town or village of Glasgow, into a burgh-of-
barony, holding of the bishop, and granting them
many privileges, such as that of holding a weekly
Thursday's market, witli all " the liberties and cus-
toms of one of the King's burghs." The same king
also granted to the bishop, for the inhabitants, a
light of fair in Glasgow annually, for eight days fol-
lowing the octaves of St. Peter and St. Paul, (6th
July) and gave his "firm peace" to all attending it.
This fair is still kept up with unfailing regularity —
the only difference from the olden time being that
instead of being held for business purposes, it is
characterized by the total want of it — Glasgow fair
being now the annual holidays, when labour is sus-
pended, and the industrious thousands enjoy a few
days' recreation. It was not, however, till 1242,
that by a special edict from the Crown, "the bur-
gesses and men of the bishop were entitled to trade
in Lennox and Argyle as freely as the men of Dum-
barton." To conclude this part of the subject, it
may be here stated (on the excellent authority of
' Origines Parochiales Scotice,' edited by Mr. Cosmo
Innes), that in 1450, the bishop's city and territory
were erected into a regality, and the burgh, hitherto
a burgh of barony, thus rose one step in dignity and
privilege. The bishop was permitted to appoint a
sergeant for making arrestments and executing the
edicts of his court, who was to bear a silver staff,
having the royal arms blazoned on the upper end,
and the arms of the bishop on the other. The in-
creased consequence of the magistrates is immedi-
ately apparent. An indenture between them and the
Friars Preachers, dated in 1454, runs in the name
of " an honorabyll mane, Johne Steuart, the first
provest that was in the cite of Glasgu." Whether
as a burgh of barony or a burgh of regality, the ap-
pointment of magistrates was in the bishop; and
one instance is recorded, in the year 1553, on the
Tuesday next after the feast of St. Michael the arch-
angel, when the new bailies were wont to be elected,
an honourable man, Andrew Hamyltoun of Coch-
nocht, provost, and the whole council, in the inner
flower garden beside the palace, when the bishop
was engaged in conversation with several of the
canons of the chapter, presented to his lordship a
schedule of paper with the names of certain of the
most worthy and substantial men of the city, from
whom the archbishop selected the bailies for the fol-
lowing year. In 1561, the council, first protesting
that search had been made in vain for the arch-
bishop, (who had withdrawn on the breaking out of
the Reformation) proceeded to elect their magistrates
themselves. Glasgow sent representatives to par-
liament in 1546; but it was only in 1636 that a
charter of Charles I. ratified in parliament, declared
the burgh duties payable directly to the Crown.
The protestant archbishops, from time to time, and
also the family of Lennox, as heritable bailies of the
regality, long claimed the right of nominating the
magistrates, and even in 1655, Esme, Duke of
Lennox, w~as served heir to bis father in " the title
of nomination and election of the proveist, baillies,
and uther magistrates and officers of the burgh and
city of Glasgow." In 1690, parliament ratified a
charter of William and Mary, giving the citv ot
Glasgow and town council, power and privilege to
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choose their own magistrates, as freely as Edin-
burgh or any other royal burgh.
After this digression — proving the firm grasp with
which the church, whether Roman Catholic or Pro-
testant, and its heritable bailies, long held the mu-
nicipal patronage of Glasgow, — it remains to be
stated that the worthy Joeeline, by whose means
\he inhabitants were first brought within the pale
Jl citizenship, died at his old abbey of Melrose, on
the 17th March, 1199, after a lengthened and hon-
oured episcopate.
About the year 1246, a convent or monastery of
preaching friars of the order of St. Dominic (called
also, from the colour of their habits, Black Friars)
was established in the city by the influence of Bish-
op William of Bondington, a munificent prelate,
who held the office of chancellor to King Alexander
II. during the latter half of his reign, and who made
considerable additions to the rising cathedral church.
Their church was dedicated to the blessed Virgin
and St. John the Evangelist, and when the building
commenced Pope Innocent IV. issued a bull of forty
days' indulgence to all the faithful who should con-
tribute to its completion. The church stood on the
east side of High street, and the building survived
until it was taken down about the year 1670, to be
replaced by the present college or Blackfriars Kirk.
The adjoining " place," or convent of the friars
was largely and richly endowed. — When King Ed-
ward I. of England (then engaged in his attempt to
subjugate Scotland) remained at Glasgow for a fort-
night in the autumn of 1301, he was lodged at the
monastery of the Friars Preachers ; from which it
may be inferred that it was the only building in the
town capable of accommodating the monarch and
his train. Although his residence was with the
Friars, however, Edward, as became one desirous of
being reputed a pious King, was constant in his offer-
ings at the high altar, and the shrine of St. Mungo.
The accounts of Edward's wardrobe show that he
requited the hospitality of the brethren with a pay-
ment of six shillings. The "place" stood on part
of the ground now occupied by the University, but
no vestiges of it now remain.
The next prelate worthy of notice was Robert
Wisebard, archdeacon of Lothian, who, in 1278, was
consecrated bishop of Glasgow at Aberdeen by the
bishops of Aberdeen, Moray and Dumblane. He
was a man of eminence in the country, and a mem-
ber of the council of Alexander III. Upon the
death of the King he was appointed one of the lords
of the regency; and in these perilous times no man
exerted himself with more ardour, or a purer patri-
otism, towards the preservation of the independence
of his country, which was then assailed by Edward
I. " The affectionate sympathy expressed by the
King (Robert the Bruce) for the bishop would serve
to give us some insight into his character, even if
the history of Robert Wischard were not so well
known. It was a time when strong oppression on
the one side, made the other almost forget the laws
of good faith and humanity. Our bishop did homage
to the Suzerain, and transgressed it ; he swore
fidelity over and over again to the King of England,
and as often broke his oath. He kept no faith with
Edward. He preached against him ; and when the
occasion offered, he buckled on his armour like a
Scotch baron, and fought against him. But let it
not be said that he changed sides as fortune changed.
When the weak Baliol renounced his allegiance to
his overlord, the bishop, who knew both, must have
divined to which side victory would incline ; and
yet he opposed Edward. When Wallace, almost
single-handed, set up the standard of revolt against
'.he all-powerful Edward, the bishop of Glasgow
immediately joined him. When Robert Bruce,
friendless and a fugitive, raised the old war-cry of
Scotland, the bishop supported him. Bruce was
prescribed by Edward, and under the anathema of
the church. The bishop assoilzied him for the sac-
rilegious slaughter of Comyn, (in the Greyfriars
church at Dumfries) and prepared the robes and
royal banner for his coronation. Wischard was taken
prisoner in the castle of Cnpar, which he had held
against the English, in 1306, and was not liberated till
after Bannoekbum. It was in the midst of that long
confinement that we find Robert commiserating his
tedious imprisonment, his chains and persecutions, so
patiently endured for the rights of the church and
the kingdom of Scotland. The bishop had grown
blind in prison. One charge of Edward against
Bishop Wischard was that he had used timber which
he had allowed him for building a steeple to his ca-
thedral, in constructing engines of war against the
King's castles, and especially the castle of Kirkin-
tilloch."— [Registrum Episeopatus Glasguensis.l
Indeed, there is every reason to believe that Edward
would have put the patriotic bishop to death ; but
the fear of exciting the ire and resentment of the
Pope restrained the hand of the usurper. Wischard
was exchanged, along with the Queen and Princess,
for the Earl of Hereford, taken in Bothwell castle,
by Edward Bruce, immediately after the battle of
Bannockburn. The venerable bishop thus lived to
see Robert the Bruce firmly seated on the Scottish
throne, and dying in November, 1316, was buried
in the cathedral church betwixt the altars of St.
Peter and St. Andrew.
According to several old historians, Glasgow was
the scene, in 1300, of a desperate conflict between
the English and Scots. Edward, it is stated, had
appointed one of his creatures, named Anthony
Beck, or Beik, bishop of Glasgow, during the cap-
tivity of Robert Wischard, and a large English force,
under Earl Percy, was stationed in the neighbour-
hood of the cathedral, both for the purpose of sup-
porting the bishop in his new dignity, and of over-
awing the discontented inhabitants of the Western
shires. Wallace gathered a force at Ayr, whence
he marched to Glasgow, and defeated the English,
whose chief was killed in the action. The action
took place on that part of High Street, between the
spot where the college now stands, and the " Bell of
the Brae." We are afraid, however, that the nar-
rative of this victory, so creditable to Wallace and t,
the oppressed Scots, must be discarded from the
sober page of history. The only authority for it is
found in the metrical romance of Wallace, written
by Blind Harry, in the fifteenth century; and the
circumstances which he describes- are altogether
irreconcilable with existing records of unquestion-
able authority. The silence of all authentic history
on the event, therefore, compels us to reject the
narrative as a fable, like nine-tenths of the same
minstrel's work.
It is matter of tradition that Stockwcll bridge, the
first stone structure which spanned the Clyde, (and
which was only removed in 1850, as will be after-
wards noticed,) was built by Bishop William Eaa, or
Rae, about 1345, assisted by the pious Lady Lochow,
who defrayed the cost of one of the arches. Of the
execution of this magnificent work on the part of
the prelate and the lady, there is no authentic record
in existence, and it is difficult to believe that an un-
dertaking of such magnitude and expense could be
successfully carried out in a time of such great na-
tional depression. Rae filled the see from 1337 till
1367, during the unfortunate reign of David II.,
when the kingdom suffered from the disasters of
Edward Baliol's wais — from the battles of Duplin
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Halidon Hill, and Neville's Cross. iSo other era,
however, lias been given for the erection of the
bridge, and as no one else has clai ned the honour,
we see no good cause to deprive the prelate of the
credit which tradition has uninterruptedly assigned
to him.
About the year 1392, in the time of the Earl of
Carriok, afterwards Robert III., a mint was erected
in Drygate Street, at which coins were struck. On
one side was represented the King's crest crowned,
but without a sceptre, with the motto Robertus Dei
Gratia Bex Scotorum; and on the other, on an inner
circle, Villa de Glasgow; and on the outer circle,
Dominus Protector.
About the year 1410, Bishop Lauder, archdeacon
of Lothian, was presented to the bishopric by Pope
Benedict XIII., of his own authority, without the
election of the chapter, but nevertheless the appoint-
ment was not disputed. He was appointed a com-
missioner to the court of England, to negotiate the
terms of ransom of James I., then a prisoner there,
and after his return to Scotland, on the successful
completion of this mission, he spent much of his
time and means in extending and beautifying the
cathedral. The steeple of the church, which had
been constructed of wood, covered with lead, having
been destroyed by fire in the time of his predecessor
(Bishop Glendinning), Bishop Lauder supplied its
place, as far as the first battlement, by a magnificent
spire of stone, which still remains a fitting monu-
ment to his liberality and taste. He also laid the
foundation of the vestry.
Lauder died in 1425, and was succeeded in the
following year by Dr. John Cameron, (supposed to
be of the family of Loehiel,) then provost of Lin-
cluden, and secretary of state. He was also pro-
moted to the chancellorship, which he held till 1440.
He had the character of being a magnificent prelate,
and seems to have deserved it. He resumed the
building of the chapter house, and either extended
or completed various other portions of the cathedral,
as may be seen by the carvings of his arms still
existing on several portions of the structure. Cam-
eron also built the " great tower " of the Bishop's
palace in Glasgow, immediately adjoining the ca-
thedral, and on which his arms were to be seen
before its demolition at the close of the last century.
During the incumbency of this prelate, the episcopal
see was at the zenith of its temporal glory and power.
The prebendaries had now extended to thirty-two,
and the revenues had become augmented to a mighty
aggregate. With the view of adding dignity to the
episcopal court, he ordained that the prebend should
reside in the neighbourhood of the cathedral church ;
and in consequence that portion of the city was ex-
tended and adorned with their comfortable mansions,
and orchards or parterres. Not a few of these dwell-
ings remained in good habitable condition till the
close of the last century, and two or three of them
exist even yet, although in rather a dingy and dila-
pidated condition. By contemporary writers, the
court of this prelate is spoken of as being scarcely
second to that of the monarch himself, from the
great number of dignified ecclesiastics and noblemen
of the first consideration whom he drew around him.
" He was fond of celebrating the great festivals of
the church, and on these occasions he entered the
choir, through the nave, by the great Western door,
(recently opened up) preceded by many high officials,
one of whom bore his silver crozier or pastoral stuff,
and the others carried costly maces and other em-
blems. These were followed by the members of the
chapter, and the procession moved on amidst the
ringing of bells, the pealing of the great organ, and
the vocal swell of the choristers, who were gorgeous-
ly arrayed in vestments of high price; the Te Deum
was then sung and high mass celebrated. On cer-
tain highly solemn occasions, it pleased the prelate
to cause the holy relics belonging to the church to
be exhibited for the edification of the faithful. These,
according to the chartulary, principally consisted of
the following objects of veneration: 1st, The image of
our Saviour in gold; 2d, The images of the twelve
apostles in silver; 3d, A silver cross, adorned with
precious stones, and a small piece of the wood of the
cross of our Saviour ; 4th, Another cross of smaller
dimensions, adorned witli precious stones; 5th, One
silver casket, gilt, containing some of the hairs of
the Blessed Virgin ; 6th, In a square silver coffer,
part of the scourges of St. Kentigern, and St. Thomas
of Canterbury, and part of the hair garment made
use of by St. Kentigern our patron ; 7th, In another
silver casket, gilded, part of St. Bartholomew, the
apostle; 8th, In a silver casket, gilded, a bone of
St. Ninian ; 9th, In another silver casket, gilded,
part of the girdle of the blessed Virgin Mary; 10th,
In a crystal case, a bone of some unknown saint and
of saint Magdalene; 11th, In a small phial of crys-
tal, part of the milk of the blessed Virgin Mary, and
part of the manger of our Lord; 12th, In a small
phial, a liquor of the colour of saffron, which flowed
of old from the tomb of St. Kentigern; 13th, One
other silver phial, with some bones of St. Eugene
and St. Blaze; 14th, In another silver phial, part of
the tomb of St. Catherine, the Virgin; 15th, One
small hide with a part of St. Martin's cloak; 16th,
One precious hide, with a part of the bones of St.
Kentigern and St. Thomas of Canterbury ; 17th,
Four other hides, with bones of saints and other
relics ; 18th, A wooden chest with many small relics ;
19th, Two linen bags, with the bones of St. Kenti-
gern and St. Thenaw, and other deceased saints,
indeed the paraphernalia of the see had about this
time extended so greatly, that a new officer was ap-
pointed as keeper of the church vestments and fur
niture treasured within the " Gemma doors " enter-
ing the choir." — [Pagan's History of the Cathedral
and See of Glasgow.] Cameron, who was remem-
bered by the title of the " magnificent prelate," died
on Christmas eve, 1447, at Lockwood, a rural retreat
belonging to the bishops, in the parish of Old Monk-
land, about six miles eastward of Glasgow.
William Turnbull, of the family of Minto in Eox
burgbshire, archdeacon of Lothian, and keeper of
the privy seal, was appointed Cameron's successor.
His name will ever be held in honoured remembrance
as the founder of the University of Glasgow. By
his intervention it was constituted by a bull of Pope
Nicholas V., dated on the 7th of the Ides of Janu-
ary, 1450; and King James II. also granted a char-
ter of privileges and exemptions, dated under the
great seal at Stirling, on 20th April, 1453. Such
was the origin of that splendid educational estab-
lishment which has long reflected, and still reflects,
so much honour on the city of Glasgow. During
the episcopate of Robert Blackader, who had form-
erly been bishop of Aberdeen, and who was elevated
to the mitre in 1484, a bull was obtained from Popu
Alexander VI., erecting the see of Glasgow into an
archbishopric, and the erection was confirmed by
act of parliament. Its suffragans were the bishops
of Dunkeld, Dumblane, Galloway, and Argyle.
James IV., whose piety in early youth took an en-
thusiastic turn, had become a canon of the chapter
of Glasgow, and loved to show favour to the cathe-
dral of which he was a member. In the first year of
his reign, it was " concludit and ordainit be our so-
verane lord and his three estatis, that for the honour
and public gud of the realme, the sege of Glasgow
be erect in ane Archbishopric!;, with sic prcvilegiis
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734
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as accordis of law, and siclick as the Archbishop-
rick of York has in all dignities, emunities, and
previlegiis." " The King renewed and extend :d
the privileges and exemptions, and much valued
civil jurisdiction of the bishop, with expressions
that show both his attachment to Glasgow, and the
commencement of that high character of its chapter,
which afterwards drew to the Archbishop's court
of Glasgow a great proportion of civil business."
[Eegistrura Episcopatns Glasguensis.] Blackader,
it may be added, stood high in the confidence and
favour of King James IV., and was one of those who
negociated the marriage between that prince and the
lady Margaret of England, daughter of Henry VII.,
which connexion eventually resulted in the succes-
sion of a Scottish King to the throne of England.
Blackader was the last of the prelates, who lent a
kindly hand to the extension and adornment of the
cathedral, which had now been more than 370 years
in existence since its foundation by Bishop John.
In addition to founding several altarages, he built
the southern transept, which still goes by his name ;
and, though never completed, enough has been done
to show the rudiments of a beautiful design. Ac-
cording to Leslie, the archbishop undertook a pilgri-
mage to the Holy Sepulchre, in his advanced age,
and died on the 28th July, 1508, when almost in
sight of the Arabian shore.
Gavin Dunbar, of the family of Mochrum in Wig-
tonshire, and tutor to the young King James V.,
was elevated to the archbishopric, and consecrated
at Edinburgh on the 5th February, 1525. His reign
is specially memorable as being that in which the
infallibility of the church, the purity of the Romish
faith, and the morals and precepts of the clergy,
began to be freely and boldly questioned. There is
no doubt that the progress of the Reformation in the
West of Scotland was vastly aided by those very
means which were intended to crush it, namely, the
martyrdom of Russell and Kennedy. For the purpose
,f suppressing those doctrines which caused the
Established clergy to tremble in their strongholds,
many pious persons suffered death at St. Andrews
and Edinburgh ; but it was deemed necessary to
make an example in Glasgow to intimidate the
heretics of the West. Dunbar, however, was a man
not only possessed of the milk of human kindness,
but had sufficient good sense to know that the spirit
of inquiry was not to be stilled, nor conscientious
belief to be perverted, by lacerating the flesh ; and
accordingly he recommended moderate measures ;
but the high powers of the church thought other-
wise ; and accordingly a deputation, consisting of
John Lawder, Andrew Oliphant, and Friar Malt-
man, was sent from Edinburgh to Glasgow, to
stimulate the archbishop, and assist in crashing the
advancing Reformation by the agency of the pile
and faggot. The men devoted to destruction were
Jeremiah Russell, one of the Grey friars in Glasgow,
a man well learned for the age in which he lived,
and John Kennedy, a youth from Ayrshire, not
more than 18 years of age. After what would now
be considered a mock trial, they were handed over —
much against the will of Archbishop Dunbar — to
the secular power for execution, and suffered mar-
tyrdom at a stake which had been erected at the
east end of the cathedral. These were the only
persons who suffered at Glasgow during the troubles
attending the progress of the Reformation ; and
though their death intimidated the people for the mo-
ment, it soon raised a spirit which nothing could
allay but the tearing up by the roots of the whole
establishment of the Papacy. Dunbar, however,
though gentle in spirit, appears to have been deeply
tinctured by the bigotry of his order; for upon Lord
Maxwell bringing in a bill into the Scottish Parlia-
ment to encourage the reading of the Bible in the
vulgar tongue, this prelate is found protesting most
vehemently against it, both for himself and in
name of all the prelates in the kingdom. To the
credit of the legislature, the bill passed notwith-
standing. He died in 1547, and was buried in the
chancel of the cathedral, in a stately tomb which he
had caused to be built for himself; but it was en-
tirely swept away, when the Reformers obtained the
mastery, and when the cathedral itself so narrowly
escaped the fate of the other beautiful ecclesiastical
structures which for ages had adorned the kingdom.
James Beaton, nephew of the celebrated Cardinal,
was constituted archbishop of Glasgow at Rome in
1552. With this prelate came the crisis and the
close. He was the last of the long line of spiritual
princes who bad held sway in Glasgow for so many
centuries. The Reformation had now acquired an
irresistible momentum, of which the archbishop
speedily became perfectly conscious. He accord-
ingly removed into the castle or palace all the port-
able valuables which the church contained, and
summoned around him the gentlemen of the neigh-
bourhood still attached to the old doctrines, who, by
means of their adherents and servants, guarded the
church and palace from any sudden onslaught on
the part of the Reformers. Eventually finding that
the cause of the papacy was hopeless, Beaton quietly
retired from the contest, and passed into France in
1560, escorted by some troops of that nation, who
happened at the time to be at Glasgow. At the
same time, the Reformation was established by law
in Scotland. The archbishop carried with him the
whole treasures and costly ornaments, chalices, and
images of gold and silver belonging to the cathe-
dral, and also the valuable archives of the see from
the earliest period to his own times. These were de-
posited by Beaton partly in the archives of the Scots
College, and partly in the Chartreuse at Paris.* When
the archbishop settled in France, he was constituted
ambassador to that court from his sovereign, the
unfortunate Mary, whom he served with unshaken
fidelity throughout her chequered career, and until
her death at Fotheringay. James VI., her son, re-
spected his fidelity, employed him, and obtained for
him, by special act of Parliament, in 1598, the re-
storation of the temporalities of the see which he
had abandoned, "notwithstanding (as the act says)
that he hes never maid confession of his faith, and
lies never acknowledgeit the religion profest within
this realme." The closing days of this last prelate
of the long line of St. Kentigern were consequently
affluent and easy, and he died on 24th April, 160S,
aged 86 years. By his will he ordained that the
archives and relics of the cathedral which he had
carried away, should be restored to Glasgow, so
soon as the inhabitants should return to the com-
munion of the church of Rome — " Which, I hope in
God, (says old M'Ure the local historian) shall never
be, but that his church is so established here, that
neither the gates of Rome or hell shall ever he able
to prevail against it."
* At tlie time of the French Kevohition, 1 he Ancient Chartu-
Inry, together with other valuable MSS. were saved by the
patriotic exertions of Abbe Macpherson, one of the members of
the College, and transmitted to Scotland. About ten years ago,
they were arranged and printed, under the superintendence of
Mr. Cosmo Innes, for the Maitland club, at the expense of the hue
Mr. Ewing of Strathleven. Long previous to this date, however,
authentic and notarial transcripts of the Chartulary and other
documents had been procured by the University of Glasgow (in 1 73S
and subsequent years) ; and the Magistrates of Glasgow, in 17;iL»
obtained authentic copies of the writs which were considered of
most importance to the city, 'the original Register or Chartu-
lary, is in two volumes, on vellum, and much of it is written iu
the hand of a scribe of the twelfth century
GLASGOW.
< iio
GLASGOW.
In its prime, the see of Glasgow was endowed
with magnificent temporal possessions, which fully
warranted its title of the " Spiritual Dukedom ;"
and at its final overthrow, it may be fairly assumed
that the anticipated scramble for the fair domains
of the ancient church quickened the conversion of
many of the Scottish nobles to the doctrines of the
Reformation. The archbishops were lords of the
lordships of the royalty and baronies of Glasgow ;
and besides there were eighteen baronies of lands
which belonged to them, within the sheriffdoms of
Lanark, Dumbarton, Ayr, Renfrew, Peebles, Selkirk,
Roxburgh, Dumfries, and the stewartry of Kirkcud-
bright. Mr. Cosmo Innes beautifully remarks in
his preface to the ' Registrant Episcopates Glas-
guensis :' — " It is impossible for a student of eccle-
siastical antiquities not to look back with fond regret
to the lordly and ruined church which we have
traced from its cradle to its grave, not stopping to
question its doctrines, and throwing into a friendly
shade its errors of practice. And y.et, if we con-
sider it more deeply, we may be satisfied that the
gorgeous fabric fell not till it had completed its
work, and was no longer useful. Institutions, like
mortal bodies, die and are re-produced. Nations
pass away, and the worthy live again in their colonies.
Our own proud and free England may be destined
to sink, and to leave only a memory, and those off-
shoots of her vigorous youth which have spread
civilization over half the world. In this view, it
was not unworthy of that splendid hierarchy which
arose out of the humble family of St. Kentigern,
to have given life and vigour to such a city as
Glasgow, and a school of learning like her Uni-
versity."
" A line of fifteen Protestant archbishops held the
see at intervals, during the alternate rule of Epis-
copacy and Presbyterianism. We do not think it
necessary to notice them individually or at length.
They were no longer the princes of the church in
the sense which distinguished their Roman Catholic^
predecessors ; compared with them, they filled an
insignificant place in the public estimation ; and the
form of doctrine they professed was hateful to the
great body of the people. Some, such as the admir-
able Leighton, were able and excellent men ; others
ivere the mere nominees of noble lay patrons, with
whom, by a Simoniacal arrangement, they divided
the temporalities of the see. None of them did
anything to extend or beautify the Cathedral, which
had so happily and miraculously survived the storms
of the Reformation. Possibly little blame is attach-
able to the Protestant prelates for this seeming re-
missness. Their means were limited, and they
might foresee that the decorations put up during an
Episcopalian reign, would be shorn off when the
Presbyterians came to rule the house. We learn
from the Session records that the reforming ardour
had not abated so late as the year 1641, when the
Kirk Session effaced from the walls of the Cathedral
the last lingering inscription of Suncte Quiwtegeme
Ora pro Nobis. Only two of the prelates put their
hands to the fabric of the Cathedral. Archbishop
Spottiswood, the eminent church historian, com-
menced to renew the roof, which had been stripped
of its lead during the Reformation troubles, and had
only been imperfectly repaired afterwards ; and this
work was completed by Archbishop Law, after Spot-
tiswood's translation to the primacy of St. Andrews
in 1615." [Pagan's History of Glasgow Cathedral.]
During the fifteenth and part at hast also of the
sixteenth century, Glasgow contained no more than
one principal street and live or six small ones. From
the Cathedral, the High Street stretched in an ir-
regular line downwards to the Cross, from whence
it was continued, though not without interrup-
tions, towards the bridge — this lower portion of its
line being known by the names of the Waulker
or Fuller's Gate (now called the Saltmarket), and
the Bridgegate, which still retains its old appellation.
At the point where the Waulker Gate joined the
High Street, was the Market Cross, from which two
streets extended themselves — that which led east-
ward across the Molendinar burn to the town's
common moor, being called the Gallowgate, while
that which stretched westward was called St.
Thenaw's Gate. On the north side of the Gallow-
gate stood the church or chapel of St. Mungo's-in-
the-Fields, built and endowed about 1500, by David
Cunningham, provost of the Collegiate church of
Hamilton. It was surrounded by a cemetery — all
traces of which have long vanished, although the
site is still known — and close by it stood certain
trees bearing the name of St. Mungo. We learn
from the ' Liber Colle.gii Nostre Domine,' ably
edited by Mr. Joseph Robertson, now of the Register
House, Edinburgh, that the Collegiate church of St.
Mary and St. Ann, founded about 1528, by James
Houston, sub-dean of Glasgow, was situated on the
south side of the Trongate, then more commonly
known by its ancient and original name of St.
Thenaw's Gate. No memorial of the ancient build-
ing (upon the site of which the Tron church now
stands), has been preserved; but it is undoubted
that it was surrounded by a burying-ground, long
since built over, and that on the west side of it stood
the Song School. In the same street stood two
other chapels, one called our Lady chapel, on the
north side of the street, not far from the Cross,
founded as early as the year 1293; the other dedi-
cated to St. Thomas a Beckett, and which would
seem to have been endowed in the year 1320, by Sir
Walter Fitz Gilbert, the progenitor of the Hamil-
tons. The name of the " Tron Gate," as we learn
from the work already noticed, is not to be met with
before the middle of the sixteenth century ; that is,
about 60 years after King James IV. granted to the
bishop of Glasgow and his successors the privilege
of having a free tron or public weight in the city,
and which was here situated. In a deed of seisin
of 30th May, 1545, a tenement is described as being
in "le Troy ne Gait." The older name of it, St.
Thenaw's Gate, by which it was known familiarly at
least as early as 1426, was derived from a chapel
situated near its western extremity, dedicated to St.
Thenaw, the mother of St. Kentigern or St. Mungo.
St. Thenaw is believed to have been buried here,
and in October 1475, James III. by a charter, be-
queathed to the Cathedral church of Glasgow half-
a-stone of wax from the lands of " Odingstoune," in
the lordship of Bothwell, for lights to be burned at
the tomb of "St. Tenew," in the chapel where her
bones are buried. St. Thenaw's chapel was in ex-
istence in 1597, and some traces of it were even to
be found so late as the beginning of the last century.
Woodrow says, it was then called St. Tennoch's, " a
name (says Mr. Robertson), which in the mouths of
a people more familiar with the prophets of (he
antediluvian world than with the saints of the dark
ages, was in no long time changed to that of ' St.
Enoch,' now given to a church and square not far
from the site of the edifice, which marked the rest-
ing place of the royal matron who gave birth to the
apostle of Cumbria." The Collegiate church, already
alluded to, lay waste for a long period after the Re-
formation; but about 1592, it began to be resorted
to as a place of Presbyterian worship, and was con-
tinued to be used as such, in the status of one of the
parish churches, till 1793, when it was destroyed bv
fire. The present Tron or St. Mary's church is
GLASGOW
736
GLASGOW.
built on the same site. The well known Tron steeple
escaped the conflagration, but it was not erected till
about 1 637. In the neighbourhood of St. Thenaw's
Gate, there was another street, of old called the
Fishergate, afterwards the Stockwell Gate, now
Stockwell Street, in a line with the modern Victoria
bridge ; and from the High Street and most of the
other streets, there were narrow lanes or wynds
stretching backwards towards the open country, or
the banks of the river. From the upper end of the
High Street, the Eatten Raw diverged towards the
west, and the shorter street, called the Drygate, led
towards the east — both these streets, but especially
the former, being occupied with the houses of the
prebendaries, and other officers of the Cathedral.
On the south side of the Clyde, at the end of the
bridge, stood a leper hospital; but until after the
Reformation, there is no good reason to think that
there were any other houses on that bank of the
river. From all this, it will be seen that Glasgow
was still a very insignificant place when under the
rule of "the church;" and indeed, we find that at
the taxation of the royal burghs, in the reign of
Queen Mary, it rated only as the eleventh. It must
be remembered, however, that the community, tiny
as it was, bad been often severely tried and afflicted
by famine, pestilence, and other grievous calamities.
The inhabitants, who supported themselves princi-
pally by ministering to the wants of the princely
churchmen, were sad losers for a time by the Re-
formation ; but gradually they turned their industry
into new, permanent, and profitable channels. It
is somewhat remarkable, however, to find that even
thus early, and while the place was still so poor
and so limited, Glasgow began to possess the germs
of commercial eminence, in so far as it was not
destitute of shipping ; for there is an order of the
privy council to the effect that vessels belonging to
Glasgow should not annoy those belonging to Henry
VIII., the Queen's grand-uncle.
The Cathedral after the Reformation. — Soon after
it had been vacated by its ancient masters, the ca-
thedral was purged of all its altars, chantries, and
all the idolatrous appendages which might remind
the people of the Romish form of worship. So zea-
lous, or rather furious, were the Reformers in this
work of purification or demolition, that they swept
away all the monuments which had been erected,
not only to patriotic prelates, but to eminent and
amiable laymen, with the single exception of the
tomb of the Stewarts of Minto, a family which had
supplied provosts and magistrates to the city through
several generations. This was not entirely the
work of a rabble which glories in mischief and
destruction under any pretext ; for the insane gut-
ting of the beautiful cathedral church at Glasgow
was carried on with method and deliberation, in-
cited by a mistaken sentiment of pious zeal, and
sanctioned by the chief civil authority in the king-
dom. It is only fair to state that the government,
in issuing an order for the destruction of all " mo-
numents of idolatry," strongly enjoined the preser-
vation of the buildings which they degraded. The
mandate is expressed in the following terms : —
"to the magistrates of mjr.Giis.
" Our traist freindis, after maist hearty commen-
dacion, we pray ye fail not to pass incontinent to
the kirk [of Glasgow, or such other edifice as might
require purification] and tak down the haill images
thereof, and bring furth to the kirkzyard, and burn
them openly. And sicklyke cast down the alteris,
and purge the kirk of all kynd of monuments of
idolatrye. And this ze fail not to do, as ze will do
us singular emplesur; and so comniittis you to the
protection of God.
(Signed) An. Argyle.
Jajies Stuart.
Ruthvex.
" From Edinburgh the xii of August, 1560.
" Fail not, bot ze tak guid heyd that neither the
dasks, windocks, nor dnrris be ony ways hurt or
broken, either glassin work or iron work."
It was evidently the desire of the Lords of the
Congregation at this time that the work of demoli-
tion should go a certain length, and no farther; but
they had raised a spirit which they could not lay-
again, and the harangues of any furious preacher,
who cursed the temples of the Papists from the
copestone to the foundation, were received as much
more orthodox and acceptable than the compara-
tively moderate injunctions of their civil rulers.
The more ardent amongst the Reformers were not
content with a partial demolition, and they resolved
that every trace of the Romish superstition should
be swept away at the expense of those magnificent
structures which had been long the pride and glory
of the land. An act was accordingly passed in
1574 by the Estates, at the instigation of the Pres-
byterian Assembly, authorising a still further purifi-
cation or dismantling of those churches which had
hitherto escaped. But when men are blinded by
passion, or when spoliating work of this kind is
intrusted to the rabble, do we ever find that they
know where to draw the line between that which
should be destroyed and that which should be pre-
served? The result of this unfortunate decree of
the Estates is thus narrated by Spottiswood: —
" Thereupon ensued a pitiful devastation of churches
and church buildings throughout all parts of the
realm ; for every one made bold to put to their hands
— the meaner sort imitating the ensample of the
greater, and those who were in authority. No dif-
ference was made, but all the churches either de-
faced or pulled to the ground. The holy vessels,
and whatsoever else men could make gain of, as tim-
ber, lead, and bells, were put up to sale. The very
sepulchres of the dead were not spared The re-
gisters of the church and bibliotheques cast into the
fire. In a word, all was ruined ; and what had es-
caped in the time of the first tumult, did now under-
go the common calamity ; which was so much the
worse that the violences committed at this time
were coloured with the warrant of publick autho-
rity. Some ill-advised preachers did likewise ani-
mate people in these their barbarous proceedings,
crying out, 'That the places where idols had been
worshipped, ought, by the law of God, to be de-
stroyed, and that the sparing of them was the re-
serving of things execrable.' " The execution of
the above-mentioned act for the West was commit-
ted to the Earls of Arran, Argyle, and Glencairn,
and they, at the intercession of the inhabitants of
Glasgow, had spared the Cathedral ; but about this
time, it is said, Mr. Melvil, principal of the college,
having for a long while solicited the magistrates to
have it pulled down, and build three churches with
the materials, they at last acceded to his desires.
This narrow escape of the ancient minster is thus
narrated by the same historian (Spottiswood) who,
however, it should be stated, has shown himself
much prejudiced against Melvil : " In Glasgow, the
next spring, there happened a. little disturbance by
this occasion. The magistrates of the city, by the
earnest dealing of Mr. Andrew Melvil and other
ministers, had condescended to demolish the Cathe-
dral, and build with the materials thereof some lit-
tle churches in other parts for the ease of the citi-
GLASGOW.
737
GLASGOW
zona. Divers reasons were given for it; such as
the resort of superstitious people to do their devo-
tion in that place ; the huge vastness of the church,
and that the voice of a preacher could not he
heard by the multitudes that convened to sermon ;
the more commodious service of the people ; and
the removing of that idolatrous monument (so they
called it) which was of all the cathedrals of the
country, only left unruiued, and in a possibility to
be repaired. To do this work, a number of quar-
riers, masons, and other workmen was conduced,
and the day assigned when it should take begin-
ning. Intimation being given thereof, and the
workmen, by sound of drum, warned to go unto their
work, the crafts of the city in a tumult took armes,
swearing with many oathes, that he who did cast
down the first stone, should be buried under it.
Neither could they be pacified till the workmen were
discharged by the magistrates. A complaint was
hereupon made, and the principals cited before the
council for insurrection, when the king, not as then
thirteen years of age, taking the protection of the
crafts, did allow the opposition they had made, and
inhibited the ministers (for they were the com-
plainers) to meddle any more in that businesse, saj'-
ing, ' That too many churches had been already
destroyed, and that" he would not tolerate more
abuses of that kind.' " The truth of this statement
has been questioned, because no entry regarding
the intended destruction of the Cathedral stands in
the council minutes of the da,, and because no
other historian mentions the affair. It may be pre-
sumed, however, that there were good reasons why
no notice of the destructive resolution of the ma-
gistrates, and of the events which followed, should
be placed on the record; and, further, it is not to
be forgotten that Spottiswood is a trustworthy
chronicler, and the tradition has been one of al-
most universal acceptance in Glasgow for nearly
three centuries. There may be inaccuracy in de-
tail, but the main fact of the great peril of the Ca-
thedral, and of its rescue by the crafts, seems to be
worthy of all credit. There is reason to believe,
that Captain Crawford of Jordanhill, then provost of
Glasgow, and the other magistrates, yielded with
considerable reluctance to Melvil's solicitations for
the " dinging doun" of the Cathedral, and it is likely
they only consented that they might clear them-
selves from any imputation of having an undue
tenderness, or a " sneaking kindness" for the me-
morials of popery. Honour, therefore, to the crafts-
men of Glasgow who arrested this threatened deed
of barbarism, and thereby handed down to us the
only intact survivor of the magnificent religious
edifices which were reared in Scotland during the
Romish supremacy. In these times, indeed, the
destructive spirit seems to have been long in ex-
pending itself; for it appears that after the " Raid
of Ruth ven," one of the grievances presented to the
King was a charge against the bailies for invading
the university or college with a mob, and shedding
the blood of several of the students who success-
fully resisted their attempts to set the building on
fire. The furious bailies, who acted the part of
ringleaders on the occasion, were named Colin
Campbell, William Heygate, and Archibald Hey-
gate. As a set- oil' to the above rather discreditable
proceedings, it is pleasing to record, that not long
after the magistrates, deacons of crafts, and " divers
other men of repute in the town," voluntarily as-
sessed themselves to help to keep the Cathedral in
repair, and especially for the "haldyngof it watter-
fast" [keeping it water-tight], it may also be
placed to the credit of the then civic rulers of Glas-
gow, that they granted to the College the share of
T.
the property, or plunder, which fell to them on the
downfall of the Romish church ; and this act was
confirmed by act of the Scottish parliament.
The successful result of the Reformation, like
all other revolutions, however just and desirable,
brought with it loss and suffering to many in Glas-
gow, especially of the middling and common or-
ders. The inhabitants, who then numbered little
more than 4,500 souls, had found subsistence, in
great measure, by supplying the wants of the
wealthy churchmen ; but when this line of employ-
ment and emolument was cut off, the people were
reduced to much distress. They accordingly pre-
sented a humble supplication to the King and par-
liament in 1576. The petition purports to come from
the freemen and other indwellers of the city of Glas-
gow, above the Greyfriars Wynd thereof, and makes
mention, that " whereas, that part of the said city
that afore the Reformation of the religion, was en-
tertained and upholden by the resort of the bishops,
pastors, vicars, and others of the clergy, for the
time, is now becoming ruinous, and for the maist
part altogether decayit, and the heritors and possess-
ors thereof greatly depauperit, wanting the means
not only to uphold the same, but for the entertain-
ment of themselves, their wyffis, bairnies, and fam-
ilies:"— "And seeing that part of the said city
above the Greyfriars Wynd is the only ornament
and decoration thereof, by reason of the great and
sumptuous buildings of great antiquity, very proper
and meet for the receipt of his Highness and nobil-
ity, at such times as they shall repair thereto," &c.
They also complained of " ane great confusion and
multitude of markets togidder in ane place about
thecroce," and generally they claim some ameliora-
tion of their unhappy condition. Commissioners
were accordingly appointed to " take order for re-
lief of said neeessitie;" and they ordered the mar-
kets to be further removed up the street for the
benefit of the petitioners. There is no reason to
believe that the shifting of the markets compensated
the banishment of the Roman Catholic churchmen.
The inhabitants (as already stated) eventually re-
covered their prosperity by relying on themselvee,
and directing their industry into new channels.
" Battle of the Butts" — Battle of Langside, &c. —
Glasgow was, from time to time, the scene of some
of those bloody contests which distinguished the
turbulent days of the Stuarts ; and her citizens oc-
casionally suffered severely for mixing themselves
up in the turmoil of the times. During the mino-
rity of Queen Mary, James Hamilton, Earl of Ar-
ran, the then heir to the throne, and the ancestor
of the ducal house of Hamilton, was appointed Re-
gent of the kingdom. His appointment was highly
repugnant to the Earl of Lennox and the Queen
Dowager ; and finally the hostile feeling became so
potent that both parties resorted to arms. Lennox
garrisoned the bishop's palace in Glasgow, aud re-
tired himself to the stronghold of Dumbarton; and
the Regent having gathered together a numerous
army at Stirling, marched to Glasgow, and besieged
the palace or castle with brass guns. After the
siege had been maintained for ten days, the garri-
son agreed to surrender on condition of receiving
quarter ; but no sooner had they laid down their
arms than all were massacred, with the exception
of two only, who escaped. Lennox determined to
revenge this treachery and loss, by striking a des-
perate blow, and having associated with himself the
Earl of Glencairn, their first intention was to march
into Clydesdale, and there desolate the lands of the
Hamiltons by fire and sword. The Regent, how-
ever, was timeously apprised of the scheme, and
resolved to counteract it by taking possession of
3 A
GLASGOW.
738
GLASGOW.
Glasgow. But Glencaim was beforehand with him,
and when Allan approached, the other had his
forces already drawn out, amounting to 800 men,
partly composed of his own vassals, and partly of
the citizens of Glasgow ; and at a place called " the
Butts," where the " wappon-shaw" exercises used
to he held, and now the site of the Infantry Bar-
racks, he boldly attacked the Regent. The onset
of Glencaim was so furious that he beat back the
first rank upon the second, and took the brass ord-
nance which his enemy had opposed to him; but
in the heat of the battle, and while victory yet wa-
vered, Robert Boyd, of the Kilmarnock family, sud-
denly arrived with a small party of horse, and join-
ing battle, turned the scale in favour of the Regent.
Glencairn's band, conceiving that a new army had
come against them, fled with great precipitation.
Considering the comparatively small numbers en-
gaged on both sides, the conflict must have been
unusually sanguinary, for it is recorded by the chro-
niclers of the times that 300 men were wounded or
slain on both sides, including amongst the latter
two gallant sons of Glencaim. The Regent imme-
diately entered the town, and being deeply incensed
against the inhabitants for the aid they had given
to his enemy, he gave up the place to plunder ; and
so completely was it harried, that, in addition to
valuable moveable goods, the very doors and win-
dows of many of the dwelling-houses were carried
away ; in fact, they only spared the city, in so far
as that they did not commit it to the flames.
The circumstances connected with the murder of
Lord Darnley, the marriage of the Queen with Both-
well, her discomfiture by the confederated lords, and
subsequent imprisonment in Lochleven castle, are
matters of too much historical prominence to need
any recapitulation here, even were they not touched
upon in other articles : see Carberry, Crookston,
and Loch-Leven. Mary escaped from Loch-Leven,
and being received on the shores of the lake by the
Lord Seaton, and a party of horsemen, proceeded to
Niddry castle, in West-Lothian, where she spent
the night. Next day she was conveyed to Hamil-
ton, where, as if summoned by the " fiery cross,"
her standard was joined in a very few days by a
large proportion of the Scottish nobility, including
the Earls of Argyle, Cassils, Eglinton, and Rothes ;
Lords Elphinston, Sommerville, Yester, Borth-
wick, Livingstone, Maxwell, Herries, Sanquhar,
and Ross, with many gentlemen of note — constitut-
ing with their adherents an army of 6,000 men.
The Regent Murray was holding a court of justice
at Glasgow, when the startling intelligence of the
Queen's escape, and of the assembling of her friends
in arms reached him. " The news whereof," says
an old historian, " being brought to Glasgow (which
is only eight miles distant) it was scarce at first
believed ; but, within two hours or less, being as-
sured, a strong alteration might have been observed
in the minds of most who were attending. The
report of the Queen's forces made divers slide away ;
others sent quietly to beg pardon for what they had
done, resolving not to enter in the cause further, but
to govern themselves as the event should lead and
direct them ; and there were not a few who made
open desertion, and not of the meaner sort, amongst
whom my Lord Boyd was specially noted, and in
the mouths of all men ; for that, being very inward
with the Regent, and admitted to his most secret
counsels, when he saw matters like to turn, he
withdrew himself and went to the Queen." Mur-
ray, though surprised by the rapid and unexpected
course of events, which had not only rescued Mary
from a prison, but placed her at the head of an
army, was not dismayed, and having gained a
breathing time, by listening to overtures of accom
modation from the Queen's party, he in the mean-
time sent advices to his own friends, and those of
the young King, and was joined by the Earls of
Glencaim, Montrose, Mar, and Monteith, the Lords
Semple, Home, and Lindsay, by Kirkaldy of Grange
(a captain of great courage and ability) and many
other gentlemen, in addition to a large body of the
citizens of Glasgow, which placed him at the head
of an army of upwards of 4,000 men. With this
force he encamped on the Burgh Muir (that por-
tion of the eastern suburbs now known as the Bar-
rowfield lands) and there awaited the approach of
the Queen's party, who it was believed intended to
place her majesty in safety in the strong fortress of
Dumbarton, which was then held by one of her
friends. Murray, in this favourable position, must
have intercepted the Queen's troops, had they pro-
ceeded towards Dumbarton by the north bank of
the Clyde, on which it lies ; but while drawn up
upon the Burgh Muir, intelligence reached him that
Mary's party was marching west by the south bank
of the river, with the view of crossing it at Ren-
frew, and thence reaching the castle. It thus be-
came to be of the last consequence to anticipate
the Queen's forces in the possession of Langside
bill, a considerable eminence about one and a-half
mile south of Glasgow, and which lay on the line
of her majesty's march from Rutherglen. The Re-
gent, breaking up his encampment, ordered his ca-
valry to pass the Clyde by a ford, each horseman
carrying a foot soldier, while the bridge at Glas-
gow was left open to his infantry, and by this prompt
movement he succeeded in gaining possession of
the commanding position afforded by the hill. The
Queen's party was quite alive to the importance of
anticipating the Regent in reaching Langside hill,
-but they were delayed for a time by a sudden fit of
illness which assailed the Earl of Argyle, upon
whom the command had been conferred. The Ha-
miltons, who formed the Queen's vanguard, pressed
up the hill, and the battle soon began, and was con-
tinued for more than an hour with great fury and
determined bravery on both sides ; there were many
hand-to-hand encounters with sword and pike, and
so eager were they that each party threw their bro-
ken spears and daggers, and even stones, in the
faces of their adversaries. The Queen's party suf-
fered severely from some culverins which the laird
of Grange had placed at the head of a straight lane,
flanked by some cottages and garden grounds, which
enabled his soldiers to annoy the opposing force
with great advantage. At a critical moment the
Regent's second battalion joined the first, and this
decided the fate of the day. In the battle and pur-
suit 300 of the Queen's adherents were killed, and
400 taken prisoners, while the loss of the Regent's
party was comparatively light. A large party of
the citizens of Glasgow were engaged, and from
their position on the Regent's left wing, did cruel
execution on the Queen's right. The battle of Lang-
side was fought on the 13th May, 1568. Mary
surveyed the engagement from a hill about a mile
and a-half in the rear, near Cathcart house — the
position occupied by her being still marked by a
thorn. On witnessing the rout of her army, the
unhappy Queen took horse, and being joined by
Lord Herries and a few followers, fled from the
field in the deepest dejection, and scarcely drew
bridle till the forlorn party reached Dundrennan
abbey, in the stewartry of Kirkcudbright, a dis-
tance of nearly sixty miles from the field of battle.
The passage into England ; the long weary and hope-
less imprisonment; and the bloody scene in the hall of
Fotheringav, wind up the sad story of Mary Stuart
GLASGOW.
789
GLASGOW.
The Regent having returned to Glasgow, and of-
fered up public thanks for his victory, was sump-
tuously entertained by the magistrates. He ex-
pressed his deep obligations to the citizens, and
especially to the beads of the corporation, for the
timely aid they bad afforded him, and inquired if in
anv way he could be serviceable to them. Matthew
Fa'side, the deacon of the incorporation of bakers,
then took occasion to say, that as the mills at Par-
tick, which were formerly the property of the Arch-
bishop, now belonged to the crown, and the tacks-
man exacted such exorbitant multures, that it
raised the price of bread to the community, a grant
of these mills to the corporation would be regarded
as a public benefit ; and, moreover, the bakers were
not altogether undeserving of favour in another re-
spect, as they had liberally supplied the army with
bread while it remained in the neighbourhood of
Glasgow. Faside's well-timed address had the de-
sired effect, and the fine flour-mills atPartick, about
two miles below the city, on the banks of the Kel-
vin, are possessed by the incorporation of bakers till
this day. The citizens, however, have never been
able to discover that, in virtue of this gift, bread is
to be had cheaper in Glasgow than elsewhere.
In 1570, the castle, or bishop's palace of Glasgow,
was again besieged by the Hamiltons and other
partizans of the exiled Queen — the fortress being
held as formerly for the Earl of Lennox, who had
been nominated Kegent upon the murder of the
Earl of Murray, at Linlithgow, by Hamilton of
Bothwellhaugh. An effort was made to batter down
the walls by cannon, and carry the place by storm ;
but though "the garrison numbered only twenty-four
men, they defended the castle with the most heroic
bravery, and finally succeeded in driving off the be-
siegers with considerable loss. It may be pre-
sumed, however, that as the poor Queen's was now
decidedly the losing cause, her adherents may have
been deficient in that confidence, self-reliance, and
perseverance necessary to success. Within two or
three days after they retired, a party of English
soldiers, commanded by Sir William Drury, ar-
rived in Glasgow, whence they marched to Hamil-
ton castle, which they took and dismantled, in reta-
liation for the assault made on the castle at Glas-
gow, and the injury which had been sustained by
the inhabitants. In these days the citizens looked
upon the castigation of the Hamiltons with no small
complacency, for they had not forgotten the grie-
vous ills which the town had suffered at their hands
at the " Battle of the Butts ; " and the remembrance
of their slaughtered kinsmen and plundered homes,
nerved many a stout arm against the Hamiltons
and the Queen at the battle of Langside.
Ecclesiastical and Municipal Records. — The mi-
nutes of presbytery, kirk-session, and town-council
present us with a very curious, but fresh and truth-
ful picture of the social and moral condition of the
people at and subsequent to the great revolution
effected by the Reformation. The people of Glas-
gow embraced the pure doctrines of the Reforma-
tion with cordiality and undoubted sincerity, as
is evidenced by the fact already shown, that they
suffered thereby much in their worldly means. In
1581, the negative Confession of Faith, with a Na-
tional Covenant annexed, in maintenance of the
reformed doctrine, was signed in Glasgow by 2,250
persons, men as well as women — a total which must
have included every one above the condition of
childhood. In the same year the King appointed
Mr. Robert Montgomery, minister at Stirling, to be
Protestant archbishop of Glasgow, with a well-
known Simoniacal understanding, however, that the
largest portion of the temporalities was to be paid
to the Lennox family, from which his majesty was
descended on the father's side. In other words,
Montgomery was to act the part of one of the
" Tulchans" — a term in vogue in those days, which
signified that archbishops or bishops were set up as
calves, while the favourites of royalty, or the great
men of the state, milked the benefices. The appoint-
ment of Montgomery was in the highest degree dis-
tasteful to the people, and it was resolved to op-
pose his induction by sending Mr. Howie, one of
tlie Presbyterian preachers, to take prior occupation
of the pulpit of the Cathedral, or High Church, by
which name it was afterwards known. Sir Matthew
Stewart of Minto, the provost of the city, was de-
termined., however, to enforce the royal warrant,
and while Howie was engaged with the ordinary
service on the day sot apart for the prelate's induc-
tion, he pulled him out of the pulpit, and in the
course of the struggle, a handful of hair was torn
from the minister's beard, some of his teeth were
knocked out, and his blood was shed. This assault
was regarded by the citizens of Glasgow as a most
sacrilegious one ; and as Mr. Howie denounced the
judgment of God upon Sir Matthew and his family,
it was remarked, that in seventy years this once po-
tent race had been reduced to impoverished circum-
stances in the city in which for many generations
they had been lords. Whether or not Mr. Howie's
curse did all this damage, we do not stop to inquire,
but certain it is, that the people believed it ; and the
above incident is the more deserving of notice, as
being the first indication of that spirit of resistance
to Episcopacy which the people of Glasgow, and of
the western shires, afterwards so determinedly ex-
hibited. This Montgomery was forced to resign
the benefice, and he afterwards became the minister
of the parish of Stewarton, where he died; but his
retirement did not prevent the appointment of other
Episcopal prelates in due season. The power of the
Presbyterian clergy having been meantime fairly
established, they proceeded to exercise a system of
discipline which now-a-days would be considered of
rather a stringent and oppressive character; but
considering the superstition and looseness which
marked the former papal rule, there is no doubt
that it was necessary for the regeneration of the
people, especially those of the " meaner sort." In
perusing these injunctions and sentences, the large
amount of the pains and penalties, usually belong-
ing to the civil power, which was now exercised
by the Church courts, is not a little remarkable.
In 1582 it was ordered that "the booth doors of
merchants and traffickers were to be steaked [shut]
on Wednesdays and Fridays in the hour of sermon,
and the masters of booths were enjoined to keep the
hour of preaching under the penalty of twenty
pounds Scots, without a lawful cause admitted by
the Session." On 26th December, five persons were
appointed to make repentance, because they kept
the superstitious day called Yuil [Christmas].
" The baxters [bakers] to be inquired at, to whom
they baked Yuil bread." In 1587, the Session laid
down the following tariff in Scots money to meet
cases of immorality: — " Servant women, for a single
breach of chastity twenty pounds for her relief from
cross and steeple. Men servants, thirty pounds, or
else to be put in prison eight days, and fed on bread
and water, thereafter to be put in the jugs [BtocksJ.
As for the richer sort of servants, the fines were to
be exacted at the arbitrament of the kirk. This
act not to extend to honest men's sons and
daughters, but they to be punished as the kirk
shall prescribe." The kirk, however, could afford
to be tender when it had to deal witli a trans-
gressor whose rank was above the common sort;
GLASGOW.
740
GLASGOW.
for in 1608, the laird of Minto, a late provost, was
in trouble by reason of a breach of chastity; but it
was resolved to pass him over with a reprimand,
" on account of his age and the station he held
in the town." Harlots were to be carted through
the town, ducked in the Clyde, and put in the jugs
at the cross on a market day. The punishment for
adultery was to " satisfy six Sabbaths on the cuck-
stool at the pillar, barefooted and barelegged, in
sackcloth, then to be carted through the town, and
clucked in the Clyde from a pulley fixed in the
bridge." The presbytery enjoined the ministers to
be serious in their deportment, and modest in their
apparel, " not vain with long ruffles and gaudy toys
in their clothes." The Session directed that the
drum should go through the town to intimate that
there must be no bickerings or plays on Sundays,
either by young or old. Games, golfs, alley-bowls,
&c. were forbidden on Sundays; and it was enjoined
that no person should go to Ruglen [Rutherglen] to
see the plays on Sunday. Parents who had bairns
to baptize were to repeat the commandments dis-
tinctly, articles of Faith, and the Lord's Prayer, or
to be declared ignorant; and some other godly
person present their bairn, with further punishment,
as the church shall see fit. On the 9th August
1589, Walter, prior of Blantyre, tacksman of the
teinds of the parsonage of Glasgow, provided the
elements for the communion; he was spoken to, to
provide a hogshead of good wine. The time of
assembling on the Sabbaths of the communion was
four o'clock in the morning. The collectors assem-
bled on these occasions in the High Kirk at three
o'clock in the morning. On 3d March 1608, the
Session enacted that there should be no meetings
of women on the Sabbath, in time of sermon, and
that no hostler should sell spirits, wine, or ale, in
time of sermon, under pain of twenty pounds, and
that there should be no buying of timber on the
Sabbath, at the Water of Clyde from sun-rising to
sun-setting. In 1588 the Kirk Session ordered a
number of ash trees in the High kirk-yard to be
out down, to make forms for the folk to sit on in the
kirk. Women were not permitted to sit upon these
forms, but were directed to bring stools with them.
It was also intimated that "no woman, married or
unmarried, should come within the kirk door, to
preachings or prayers, with their plaids about their
heads, neither to lie down in the kirk on their faces,
in time of prayer; with certification that their plaids
be drawn down, or they be raised by the beadle.
The beadles were to have staffs for keeping quiet-
ness in the kirk, and comely order; for each mar-
riage they were to get 4d., and 2d. for each bap-
tism." On 9th March 1640, intimation was made
by the Session, that all masters of families should
give an account of those in their families who have
not the ten commandments, the Lord's prayer,
Creed, &c, and that every family should have
prayers and psalms morning and evening; some of
the fittest men were appointed to assist the elders
in promoting this work. On 13th July 1643, the
Kirk Session appointed some of their number to go
through the town on the market day, to take order
with banners, swearers, &c., (till the magistrates
provide one for that office;) swearers were to pay
twelve pence. Intimation was given that swearers,
blasphemers, and mockers of piety, should be re-
buked at the form (pew or bench) before the pulpit,
for the second fault; and for the third, at the pillar,
over and above the fine. On 5th August, the Ses-
sion enacted that adulterers should be imprisoned,
and then drawn through the town in a cart, with a
paper on their face; thereafter to stand three hours
m the jugs and be whipped. From various entries
it appears that this punishment was not rarely in-
flicted. During this year, two hair gowns were
bought for the use of the Kirk — probably for the
investiture of delinquents.
The magistrates and town councillors were no
less zealous in the good work of encouraging piety
and purity of morals, in promoting order and clean-
liness in the town, (which, from the records, would
seem to have been much in need of amendment,) in
practising charity and hospitality now and then,
and in keeping up a martial spirit amongst the
people by means of the " wappon-shaw " or periodi-
cal training to the use of arms. Some of their de-
cisions are also of a very curious description, and
would now be considered tremendously ultra vires.
One of the most remarkable illustrations of the ex-
tent of their authority is a composition for the
slaughter of one of the burgesses, which is entered on
the books of the burgh as having the " strength ol
ane decreit of the provest and baillies." It would
appear that about the year 1575, Ninian Syare
murdered Ninian M'Litster, and the composition
in question is a contract between the widow and
representatives of the murdered man, and David
Syare, the son of the murderer, as taking burden
for his father, by which the first party agrees, upon
the performance of certain conditions, to pass from
"any action, criminal or otherwise, that they may
have against him for the crime." The contract goes
on to mention these conditions in manner following:
" For the quhilkis premiss to be done, and done in
manner foirsaid respective, the said David takand
the burden on him for his father, shall cause the
said Niniane, his father, to compere in the Hie Kirk
of Glasgow, the xi. daye of December nixt to cum,
and thair mak the homage and repentance for the
said slauchter, with sick circumstances and eery-
monies as sail be ordanit and devysit be Coline
Campbell and Robert Stewart, burgessis of Glas-
gow, chosin and admittit be baitbt the parties for
that effect. And further the said David, &c. (we
omit a tedious list of names) oblist them, their airis,
executoris, and assignayis, to content and paye to
the said Margaret and William M'Litster, for
themselfis and in the name of the said umquhile
Niniane M'Litster's barnes, the sowme of three
hundredth merkis money, in name of kynbute,"
(or reparation,) &c. In 1547, the bailies and council
ordained " everilk buythhalder to have in reddines
within the buytht ane halbert, jak, and steelbonnet,
for eschewing of sick inconvenients as may hap-
pen." And again in 1577-8, we find the- following:
"Quhilk day it is condescendit be the provest,
baillies, counsalc and dekynes, that the act maid
anent the hagbuttis be renewit, that every ane sub-
stantious and habill man sail have ane hagbutt,
with graitht, balder and bullet effeiring thairto,
and that every utheris noeht beand habill thairfoir,
sail have ane lang speir, by (besides) jakkis, steil-
bonetis, sword, and bukler," &c. On 28th October,
1588, it is "statut and ordainit be the baillies and
counsall, in consideratioun of the pest now in Pais-
lay, that no person, indweller within the town,
because of the markets of Paisley and Kilmacolm
approaching, shall pans furth of the town thereto,
under the pain of five pounds, to be taken of every
person repairing thereto, and banished furth of the
said town for a year and a day, without leif askit
and gevin be the baillies." On 1st June, 1589, the
council met to consider the King's letter, charging
this burgh and all others to arm men and go to the
north on his Majesty's service. The council, con-
sidering that his Majesty is at present at Hamilton,
direct the three bailies, the treasurer, and a deputa-
tion of the citizens to proceed thither, and speak to
GLASGOW.
741
GLASGOW.
the King and the chancellor, with the view that
they may " get ane licent of his grace to ahyd fra
this present raid," i. e. to be absolved from forming
part of the King's host then mustering against the
Popish earls in the north country. The appeal was
unsuccessful, however, for at a subsequent meeting
of council, it is resolved that "three score hagbut-
teris" (musketeers,) be equipped for the King's
service at Aberdeen at the expense of the town.
In the same year, 1589, it is ordained that "na
middingis (dunghills) he laid upoun the hiegait,
nor in the meill or flesche mercattis. And that na
flesoheowris teme uschavis (deposit offal) in the
saidis places under the pane of xvj s. unforgevin."
It is also ordained that "na breiding of flesche
nor blawing of muttoun be under the pane of xvj s."
The magistrates of these times appear to have
regulated the price of commodities, and enactments
are made fixing the price of ale, candles, and
viands and vivers generally. Candle-makers are
enjoined to sell either pounds or half-pounds, and
they shall sell penny or two penny candles. On
20th July 1612, " Mathew Thomesoun, hielandman
fiddler," is apprehended on suspicion of assaulting
"ane young damesell, named Jonet M'Quhirrie."
It appears that the charge was "denyit be him, and
hard to be verefeit," but the bailies did not give the
fiddler the benefit of the insufficiency of evidence;
for "finding him ane idill vagabound," they ordain
him to be laid in the stocks until the evening, and
thereafter put out of the town at the West port, and
banished the same for ever; and should he ever be
found in the town hereafter of his own consent he
is to be "hangit but ane assyze," (hanged without
any trial). In the treasurer's accounts for 1609, in
addition to the ordinary burgh expenditure, various
queer items are given under the heads of charity,
entertainments, &c. Some of these entries we sub-
join, leaving out the amount paid, which is in
Scotch money. Sums are paid to sundry persons of
the town " for vyne, desart, sukar, and frutis, and
other expensses maid and wairt (expended) upon
the Duik of Wirtinbrig, and James, Master of
Blantyre, for his welcum furth of Inglind." "To
two puire Inglismen at command of the baillies." —
" Pulder (powder) and lead " are paid for, which
were supplied to the " men of weir," who were sent
to the Isles, as the particular account with the
men's names bears. Doles are given to "schip-
brokin Inglismen, puire Polians (Poles) Inland-
men," and "ane pure erippill man that come out of
Paslay." Charity is given to "ane pure man that
geid on his kneis." In 1643, a sum is given for
James Bogle, a hurgess's son, to help to pay his
ransom, " being taken with the Turks." A gift is
made " Johne Lyoun's wyf in Greenock to help to
cut ane bairne of the stone." On 21st March 1661,
the council agrees to pay yearly to Evir M'Neil,
"that cuts the stone," one hundred merks Scots,
and he to " cut all the poor for that frielie," [This
painful affliction must have been more prevalent in
those days than now. It is occasionally alluded to
in the council records, and the appointment of a
regular operator, at an annual salary, has an omin-
ous aspect.] Various presents of wine and herrings
are given to the town's friends; and so late as 20th
April 1 095, the council " appoints the treasurer to
have allowance in his hands of two hundreth merks,
payed out be him as the price of ane hogsheid of
wyne given to a friend of this town, whom it is not
fitt to name."
There are various entries regarding the meeting
of the celebrated General Assembly at Glasgow in
1 638 ; and during the civil troubles in the reign of
Charles I. and subsequently "wappon shaws" are
ordered for the training of the people in arms, and
munitions of war are purchased, for the price of
which the inhabitants are assessed, and 150 men
are ordered to the border, " for the common de-
fence;" George Porterfield is to be the captain, and
the Glasgow men are to march in Lord Montgom
ery's regiment. On 25th April, 1646, the Treasurer
is ordered to " pay to Daniel Brown, surgeon,
twelve pounds money, for helping and curing
certain poor soldiers hurt at Kilsyth, at command
of the late magistrates." (These men had no doubt
been engaged in the battle of Kilsyth, gained by
Montrose.) On 18th June 1660, "ane congratula-
tioune" is kept for the second time on account of
the happy return (restoration) of our dread sove-
reign, the King's Majestie. Bale-fires are lighted
up; and it is ordered that two hogsheads of wine
be provided for the use of the soldiers then in the
town. In 1663, the Dean of Guild and convener
are ordered to appoint some of their number, as
they think convenient, " to taist the seek now
celfered be Mr. Campsie." (This was preparatory
to the "tonne's dennar," then about to take place.)
On 20th June 1674, it was represented to the council
that Mistress Cumming, Mistress of Manners, was
about to leave the town on account of the small
employment which she had found within it, "quhilk
they fund to be prejudiciall to this place, and in par-
ticular to theis who lies young women to breid
therin;" therefore, for the further encouragement
of Mrs. Cumming, if she will stay within the burgh.,
" she is to he paid one hundred merks yearly, to pay
her house maill " (rent) so long as she keeps' a school
and teaches children as formerly. On 1st February
1690, the council ordains "ane proclamation to be
sent throw the tonne, prohibiting and dischargeing
the haill inhabitants and others residing within this
burgh, that they, nor nane of them, drink in any
tavern after ten o'clock at night on the week days,
under the paine of fourtie shillings Scots to be
payed be the furnisher of the drink, and twentie
shillings Scots be the drinker, for each failzie toties
quoties, whereof the one half to the informer, and
the other to be applied to the use of the poor."
Stringent regulations are also made for Sabbath
observance.
The town appears in early times to have been
sadly afflicted with a class of diseased unfortunates,
called " lepers," and so early as 1350, Lady Lochow,
daughter of Robert Duke of Albany, and mother of
Colin, first Earl of Argyle, erected and endowed a
leprosy hospital on the south side of the river, near
the bridge. It is recorded that on 7th October,
1589, there were six lepers in the leper's house at
the Gorbals end of the bridge, viz., Andrew Law-
son, merchant; Steven Gilmour, cordiner; Robert
Bogle, son of Patrick Bogle; Patrick Brittal,
tailor; John Thomson, tailor; and David Cun-
ningham, tinker. In 1610, the council ordained
that the lepers of the hospital (those in reduced
circumstances we presume) should only go up the
causewayside, near the gutter, and should have
" clapperis" in their hands to warn the people to
keep away, and a cloth upon their mouth and face,
and should stand afar off while they received alms,
under the penalty of being banished from the town
and hospital. In 1635, the magistrates purchased
from the Earl of Glencairn, the manse of the pre-
bendary of Cambuslang — which had been gifted to
him after the Reformation — which they fitted up as
a house of correction for dissolute women, and the
authority and vigilance of the kirk session pro
ceeded so far as to order them to be "whipped every
day during pleasure."
Tlie General Assembly of 1638. — Glasgow is cele-
GLASGOW.
742
GLASGOW.
brated as having been the place of meeting of the
memorable General Assembly of the Church of Scot-
land in the year 1G38 — a gathering to which was
justly attached the very highest national interest
and importance, and which throughout its proceed-
ings exhibited a degree of independence and deter-
mination, not exceeded by the " Long Parliament" of
England in the most vigorous period of its existence.
Externally, the Church of Scotland was at this period
regulated by the Episcopal form of government ;
but the mass of the people, and a great majority of
the nobility and gentry, were devoutly attached to
the Presbyterian principles which had been intro-
duced amongst them by Knox and the early Refor-
mers. The country tolerated Episcopacy, but
neither acquiesced in it nor loved it. When the
King, Charles I., therefore, ordered a new service-
book to be read in the Scottish churches in 1637,
wh> ;h book was reputed to be tinctured by the mass,
the people exclaimed that this was neither more nor
less than an attempt to insinuate Popery amongst
them, under the shallow disguise of a Protestant
ritual; and the long-smothered dislike to "Black
Prelacy " (as the Episcopal form of church govern-
ment was afterwards called), burst forth into a storm,
of opposition, which eventually became destructive
to the whole system, and fatal to the King. The
innovation of Laud's liturgy was followed by a
closer and more hearty bond of union amongst the
Scottish Presbyterians, who exerted themselves to-
wards the calling together of another General As-
sembly to consider the state of the church ; and the
King's reluctant consent having been obtained, the
Assembly was finally summoned to meet at Glas-
gow on 21st November 1638. The magistrates
looked forward to this great convocation with some
anxiet}', and, amongst other wholesome regulations,
they ordained that " no inhabitant expect more
rent for their houses, chambers, beds, and stables,
than shall be appointed by the provost, bailies, and
council, and ordains the same to be intimated
through the town by sound of drum, that no person
may plead ignorance." They also purchased mus-
kets, with " stains and bandelieris," pikes, powder,
and match, with which to arm a body of men, who
were to mount guard day and night. The Assembly
accordingly met on the day appointed, in the nave
of the cathedral, which had been fitted up for the
occasion, the "vaults," or narrow galleries above
being appropriated to the ladies. It constituted
altogether one of the most imposing gatherings that
had ever taken place in the kingdom. The majority
of the aristocracy of the country were present,
either in the capacity of officers of the crown, or
elders and assessors from the burghs; three com-
missioners were present from each of the 63 presby-
teries, and a like number from each of the four
universities. The great mass, however, consisted
of the trains, or "following" of the nobles, which
came forth in great strength, on the pretext that,
as there might be an inroad of Highland robbers, a
strong guard of armed men was therefore neces-
sary.* Externally, the assemblage appears to have
* Robert Baillie, who was a member of this Assembly, and sub-
sequently Principal of the university of Glasgow, describes the
great confusion, pressure, and unseemly scenes, which were the
consequence of the immense crowd of retainers in attendance,
lie says : " Our rascals, without shame, in great numbers make
such din and clamour in the house of the true God, that if they
' minted ' to use the like behaviour in my chamber, I would not
be contented till they were down the stairs." Burnet, in his ' Me-
moirs of the Dukes of Hamilton,* says: "At Glasgow, the Mar-
quis (of Hamilton) found the greatest confluence of people that
perhaps ever met in these parts at an assembly. On the 21st No-
vember they sat down ; the Marquis judged it was a sad sight
to see such an assembly, for not a gown was among thein all, but
many had swords and daggers about them."
partaken more of the character of an armed confer-
ence than of an ecclesiastical convocation. The
Marquis of Hamilton (who subsequently perished in
the cause of the King), appeared as Lord High Com-
missioner from his majesty. He is described as a
man of sharp and steady, sober, and clear wit, and
of a brave and masterly expression. The venerable
Mr. John Bell, the senior minister of the Laigh kirk,
Glasgow, preached the opening sermon, and on the
following day Mr. Alexander Henderson was elected
moderator almost unanimously. Several days were
taken up in keen discussion as to the constitution
of, and powers vested in the Assembly; and it soon
became pretty evident that the court was deter-
mined to remodel the whole government of the
church. The commissioner did all he could to' ar-
rest what he deemed a high-handed and unauthorized
proceeding on the part of the Assembly ; and at
length, on Wednesday, the 28th November, during
the seventh sederunt, when the members were
about to vote upon the question affirming that they
were competent to judge the bishops, the Marquis
produced the King's instructions and warrant to
dissolve the Assembly, which he accordingly did,
and left the cathedral, accompanied by his counsel-
lors, and a few of the members of the Assembly.
The loss of the King's representative was considered
to be compensated to a great extent by the adherence
and encouragement of the potent Earl of Argyle ;
and the presbyterians thus left to themselves, pro-
ceeded with earnestness and devoted courage to do
the work for which they had assembled. Amongst
other bold and uncompromising resolutions, they
decreed the abjuration of Episcopacy, and the
Articles of Perth ; they abolished the service-books
and the high commission ; the proceedings of the
six preceding assemblies under the reign of Episco-
pacy were declared null and effete ; the bishops and
sundry ministers were tried, deposed, and some ol
them excommunicated, for professing the doctrines
of Arminianism, Popery, and Atheism — for urging
the use of the liturgy, bowing to the altar, and
wearing the cope and rotchet — for declining the
Assembly, and for being guilty of simony, avarice,
profanity, adultery, drunkenness, and other crimes.
The bishop of St. Andrews, for instance, was found
guilty of " carding and dicing in time of divine ser-
vice, riding through the country the whole day,
tippling and drinking in taverns till midnight, falsi-
fying with his own hand the acts of the Aberdeen
Assembly," &c. The charges upon which Mr.
Thomas Foster, the minister at Melross, was de-
posed, were "that he used to sit at preaching and
prayer, baptise in his own house; that he made a
way through the church for his kine and sheep ;
that he made a waggon of the old communion table,
to lead his peats in ; that he took in his corn, and
said it was lawful to work on the Sabbath ; and that
he affirmed the Reformers had brought more damage
to the church in one age, than the Pope and his
faction had done in a thousand years." One of the
counts against the bishop of Orkney was, " that he
was a curler on the ice on the Sabbath-day."
Amongst those deposed were the bishops of Gallo-
way, St. Andrews, Brechin, Edinburgh, Aberdeen,
Ross, Glasgow, Argyle, and Dunblane, who were
almost all at the same time excommunicated. How-
ever guilty the poor bishops may have been, it is
only fair to state that they were condemned in
absence. The Covenant being approved of, was
ordered to be signed by all classes of the people under
pain of excommunication; and churchmen were in-
capacitated from holding any place in parliament.
" Thus," to use the words of the historian Hume,
" Episcopacy, the high commission, the Articles of
GLASGOW.
743
GLASGOW.
Perth, the canons, and the liturgy were abolished and |
declared unlawful ; and the whole fabric which James
and Charles in a long course of years had been rear-
ing with so much care and policy, fell at once to the
ground." The Assembly continued its sittings till
the 2Gth December inclusive, having in all twenty-
Bix sessions, or eighteen after the commissioner's
departure. The last day of the Assembly is stated
to have been a " blithe day to all."
Civil Wars, Persecution, die. — Glasgow had its
full share of those trials and calamities, commencing
in the time of Charles I., and which were only ter-
minated by the advent of William, prince of Orange,
in 1G88. As these events, however, occupy a pro-
minent page in Scottish history, it is unnecessary
to enter into them in detail here. Soon after the
meeting of the General Assembly, already noticed,
the civil wars between Charles and his subjects,
which eventually consigned the unhappy monarch
to a scaffold, broke out in all their sad reality. The
chivalrous James Graham, Earl, and afterwards
Marquis, of Montrose, having abandoned the cove-
nanting party and attached himself to the cause of
the King, raised an army in the north, and after de-
feating the troops of the Covenant at Tippermuir,
Aberdeen, Fyvie, Alford, and Aldearn, marched
southwards to Kilsyth, within a few miles of Glas-
gow, where, on the 15th August 1645, he gained
his great victory over General Baillie, at the head
of 7,000 Covenanters. The defeat of the Covenant-
ers was perfectly overwhelming; and of those who
escaped the edge of the sword, an immense number
were suffocated in the nines of Dullater bog, while
they were making an attempt to flee from the field.
The authorities in Glasgow heard of the triumph of
Montrose with no small uneasiness; and although
disinclined to the cause for which he had fought
and conquered, they made a virtue of necessity by
congratulating him on his victory. Sir Robert
Douglas of Blackerston, and Mr. Archibald Fleming,
the commissary of the sheriffdom, or diocese, were
accordingly despatched in the name of Provost Bell
and the other magistrates, to Kilsyth, wdiere the
Marquis still remained, to invite him to honour the
city by his presence, and to partake of its hospitality.
Montrose accepted the invitation, and marched to
Glasgow, where he and his army were welcomed
with much solemnity and outward respect — his
lordship and his officers being sumptuously enter-
tained by the magistrates and higher classes of the
inhabitants at a banquet, during which the apologies
for their lukewarmness in the cause of the king were
taken in good part. A " pest" then prevailed in the
city, however, and Montrose left it on the second day,
and moved to Bothwell — not, however, until he had
borrowed from, or rather squeezed out of, the prin-
cipal inhabitants, money and supplies for the pro-
motion of his royal master's cause, to the amount, it
is recorded, of £50,000 Scots. Within the short
6pace of a single month, Montrose himself was sur-
prised and defeated at Philliphaugh, near Selkirk,
by General Leslie, who had been detached from
the army in England; the rout was most com-
plete, and the " great Marquis" himself had much
difficulty in making his escape, in company with
only a few horsemen. Leslie, the Covenanting
general, visited Glasgow in hie turn, and treated the
citizens with great external civility; but at the
same time borrowed from them the sum of £20,000,
which he sarcastically said was to balance the en-
tertainment given, and the money lent, to Montrose.
Either way, the poor inhabitants were laid under
heavy contributions. Previous to the disaster at
Philliphaugh, Montrose, as his majesty's lieutenant,
had summoned a parliament, to meet at Glasgow on
the 20th October, which was to have been opened
by Digby and Langdale ; but these commissioners
found it their safest course to forego their parlia-
mentary functions, and keep out of Leslie's way.
Instead of the pageant of a parliament, however,
the citizens had the spectacle of an execution ; for
three of the prisoners taken at Philliphaugh, viz. .
Sir William Bollock, Sir Philip Nisbet, and Alexan-
der Ogilvy of Inverquharity, were put to death
within the city — Rollock on the 28th, and his two
unhappy companions on the 29th of October. That
the spectacle of the execution c'' ihese royalists was
a pleasing one to a large number of the citizens,
there is no reason to doubt ; Mr. David Dickson,
professor of divinity in Glasgow college, was parti-
cularly elated as the gibbet did its work upon each,
and repeatedly exclaimed, "thewark gangs bonnily
on " — a saying which became proverbial, and was
long significantly used in Glasgow. Montrose, with
the wreck of his force which he had gathered toge-
ther, made a " demonstration " on Glasgow at this
time, in the hope of mitigating the fate of his un-
happy friends ; but he had no strength to act in the
field; and after hovering in the vicinity of the city
for a few days, he retreated to Atholl, and was never
again in a position to render effectual aid to the
cause of King Charles.
Disaster and misfortune thickened over the head
of the unhappy monarch, and in an evil hour, as is
well known, he threw himself upon the protection
of the Scots Covenanting army, by whom he was,
nine months afterwards, basely sold to the English
parliament, for the sum of £200,000 sterling. Scot-
land, after having given the King's cause the fir6t
severe blow, began at length to reflect that Presby-
tery would be in danger from the overthrow of
royalty, and the consequent triumph of the ambi
tious and uncompromising Independent party in
England. Levies were accordingly ordered by the
Scottish parliament, through the various districts of
the kingdom ; but the clergy opposed them in many
instances, from their dislike to the restoration of the
royal power being greater than to that of the ascen-
dency of the Independents. Glasgow, thus influ-
enced by the clergy, was found to be amongst the
number of those contumacious burghs which de-
clined to furnish its quota. Provost Stewart, with
the other magistrates and members of council, were
in consequence summoned before parliament, impri-
soned for several days, and deprived of their offices.
But a heavier infliction still awaited them, in so far
as four regiments of horse and foot were sent to the
town, with orders that they should be quartered ex-
clusively on the magistrates, members of Council,
the ministers, Kirk session and their friends. Some
of these gentlemen were burdened with 10, 20, and
30 soldiers each, who not only lived on the best the
place could afford in the way of meat, brandy, and
wine, but exacted from their compulsory entertainers
their daily pay into the bargain. During the short
period these four regiments "sorncd" upon the
citizens the latter sustained a loss of £40,000 Scots.
Principal Baillie pathetically remarks that "our
loss and danger were not so great by James
Graham." The army was completed notwithstand-
ing the lukewarmness of many of the burghs, and
the efforts of Argyle and the clergy to cripple the
expedition; but although it was perhaps the most
numerous host that had ever left Scotland for the
invasion of England, — amounting to nearly 30,000
horse and foot — it was at the same time one of the
most inglorious and unsuccessful. A division under
the command of the Marquis of Hamilton (who had
officiated as the representative of the King at ths
General Assembly of 1G38,) was attacked by Crom-
GLASGOW.
744
GLASGOW.
well at Preston in Lancashire, and completely
routed. The Marquis himself was taken prisoner,
and suffered decapitation in Old Palace Yard, on
Oth of March 1649, being only a few weeks after the
execution of the master whom he had so unsuccess-
fully served. It is recorded that several thousands
of Hamilton's troops were sold to the plantations at
two shillings a-head. On the 3d September, 1650,
Cromwell defeated the Scotch army at Dunbar — a
battle which was sacrificed to the ill-timed though
well-meant exhortations of the clergymen in Leslie's
camp, who induced their countrymen to leave an
unassailable position, where they fell an easy prey
to the military genius and the troops of Cromwell.
See article Dcjxbar. Shortly thereafter the Protec-
tor took possession of Edinburgh, and thence
marched to Glasgow, by way of Kilsyth. Oliver
took up his residence in Silvercraig's house, situated
on the south side of the Saltmarket, nearly opposite
to the Bridgegate,* and as he was no less skilled in
spiritual than in carnal warfare, he sent for Mr.
Patrick Gillespie, a man of influence in the town,
then minister of the Outer High church and sub-
sequently principal of the University. Gillespie was
hospitably entertained ; and Cromwell having ended
the conference by a lengthened and fervent prayer,
the minister gave out amongst the town's folks,
that " surely he must be one of the Elect. " Sub-
sequently Cromwell made a formal procession to
the High church or Cathedral to hear sermon. The
greater part of (lie influential Presbyterians had fled
the city by this time; but Mr. Zachary Boyd,
minister of the Barony church, the well known
paraphrast, had the courage to remain ; and in
preaching on that occasion during the forenoon, he
boldly and severely inveighed against Cromwell and
his Independents. "Shall I pistol the scoundrel?"
whispered Thurloe, the Secretary, to his master.
'■' No, no," said the General, " We will manage him
in another way ; " and having asked the minister to
sup with him, he concluded the entertainment with
a prayer of some hours' duration, which is said by
contemporary chroniclers to have lasted till three
o'clock in the morning. Cromwell's conduct in
Glasgow was distinguished by a most commendable
degree of moderation, and testimony is borne as to
this by those not otherwise inclined to speak of him
favourably. Indeed his stay in Scotland was in the
main extremely beneficial to the country, and to Glas-
gow in particular. Great part of his troops consisted
of tradesmen who had been spirited away from their
peaceful callings by the frenzy and enthusiasm of
the times. Some of these settled ultimately in
Glasgow, and contributed to foster the spirit of trade,
and bring certain of the useful arts to a degree of
perfection to which our rude forefathers had been
formerly strangers. English judges were appointed
to determine causes in the Scottish courts ; justice
was strictly administered,f and the whole country
was finally set at peace, and brotight under perfect
subordination by General Monk.
In its previous history Glasgow had more than
once suffered by fire, privation and pestilence ; but
about this time, on 17th June, 1652, a conflagration
broke out which exceeded all former visitations of
* Tlie house was removed a few years ngo. The hall in which
Cromwell held his levees, had been latterly used as a saleroom
for old furniture.
t It is a matter of traditionary fact that the decisions of the
English judges were more agreeable to the spirit and principles
of the law of Scotland, than the previous decisions of the judges
of the country. A young lawyer having made an observation to
this effect to a Scottish judge who died in the early part of the
18th century — " Deil mean (hinder) them," replied the judge.
"They had neither kith nor kin in this country. Take that out
of the way, and I think I could make as good a judge myself.'
the kind in its extent, and in its painful effects upon
the citizens. The flames ravaged the city for 18
hours, during which the greatest part of Saltmarket,
Trongate, and High-street, was destroyed. One
thousand families were burned out, and many per-
sons previously in comfortable circumstances, were
cast destitute upon the world. The wretched in-
habitants were for many days and nights compelled
to encamp in the open fields, and altogether this
calamity was regarded as the most severe which had
afflicted Glasgow since the foundation of the Ca-
thedral. The loss was estimated at £100,000— no
inconsiderable sum in these days. Contributions
were made for the sufferers from all parts of the
country. But like London, under a similar afflic-
tion, Glasgow rose purified and beautified from her
ashes. The majority of the houses had been built
or faced with wood, and these in due time gave
way to substantial stone edifices, which were con-
structed in a more open' and commodious manner
than the buildings they replaced. Again in 1C77,
another great conflagration took place in Glasgow,
when 130 houses were consumed. It originated at
the head of the Saltmarket, near the cross ; and was
kindled by a smith's apprentice, who had been beaten
by his master, and who, in revenge, set fire to his
smithy during the night. Law, in his ' Memorials,'
says, " The beat was so great that it fyred the horo-
ledge of the tolbooth (the present Cross steeple),
there being some prisoners in it at the time,
amongst wbom was the laird of Caraldone. The
people broke open the tolbooth doors, and set them
free."
The restoration of Charles II., in 1660, was cele-
brated in Glasgow with a good deal of outward re-
spect and enthusiasm. They rejoiced that the King
had come to his own again, simply because it was
fashionable to do so, and because the absence of
health-drinking and borj-fires might give a character
of disaffection to the place ; hut there is little reason
to doubt that, having a full remembrance of the
troubles and desolations of the time of the first
Charles, the citizens were well contented with the
order and security which the Protector had estab-
lished amongst them, and would not have been dis-
inclined to a continuance of the government upon
similar principles. The Presbyterians, therefore,
had no high expectations from the new order of
things, and they were ere long confirmed in their
misgivings. It soon became apparent that the
policy of Charles II. would be similar to that of his
father in his efforts to force episcopacy upon a re-
claiming people ; and as Glasgow was the head-
quarters of the Presbyterians of the west, where they
were most numerous, and where the people were
ready to " suffer unto the death for conscience'
sake," the city shared in all the pains and persecu-
tions of that iron time. The King having appointed
Mr. James Sharp, minister of Crail, to be archbishop
of St. Andrews, and Mr. Andrew Fairfoul, minister
of Duuse, to be archbishop of Glasgow, they arrived
in Edinburgh, in April 1662, having been previously
ordained in London. Despite the efforts of the
new archbishops, and the strong civil power with
which they were armed, the existing clergy, and
the laity of Glasgow, with trifling exceptions, re-
fused to conform to the new order of things ; and the
Earl of Middleton, with a committee of the Scotch
privy council, came to Glasgow, on the 26th Sep-
tember, 1662, to enforce compliance with the royal
system of church government. The}' were waited
on by Provost Campbell, the bailies, and almost
every person of mark and likelihood in the town or
its vicinity. The new archbishop (Fairfoul), com-
plained that none of the ministers had acknowledged
GLASGOW.
745
GLASGOW.
his authority as prelate, and moved the council to
issue and enforce an act and proclamation, banishing
all those clergymen from their houses, parishes, and
presbyteries, who should not, against a certain date,
appear and receive collation from him as their
bishop. The desire of the archbishop was formally
laid before a meeting of the privy council, held in
the fore-hall of the college, and approved of by all
the members, excepting Sir James Lockhart of Lee,
one of the senators of the College of Justice, who
prophetically declared that the act would desolate
the land, and excite to fever-height the dislike and
indignation with which the prelates had already
begun to be regarded. But Lord Lee's warning and
prophetic voice was unheeded — a circumstance not
at all surprising, when the unscrupulous character
of the men is considered, and when it is known, as
recorded by cotemporary chroniclers, that the
members of council were usually flustered with
liquor — noon-day as well as night — with the excep-
tion of the senator of Lee himself. The scenes of
gross dissipation which marked this memorable
assembly of council were long spoken of in the West
of Scotland with peculiar abhorrence ; and it was
specially noted through after time as "the drunken
meeting of Glasgow." The council having com-
pleted their work in Glasgow, visited afterwards
almost all the considerable towns in the west country,
for a similar purpose, but without evincing any re-
laxation in the character of their public acts, or any
amendment in their personal manners or morals.*
The consequence of this violent act and proclama-
tion was that no fewer than 400 presbyterian min-
isters were ejected from their parishes, and took
leave of their flocks in a single day, Wodrow says
— " It was a day not only of weeping, but howling,
like the weeping of Jazer, as when a besieged city
is taken." Amongst those who were ejected, we
find Principal Gillespie, Messrs. Robert M'Ward,
John Carstairs, and Ralph Rogers of the city, and
Donald Cargill of the Barony parish of Glasgow,
besides nine others all in the presbytery of Glasgow.
Then commenced the wild work of persecution,
and the resistance of the Covenanters, — lasting over
many dismal years — which has made their deeds
and '.ause famous in connection with heroic endur-
ance, and suffering for principle against oppression.
Early in 1678, the committee of council returned to
Glasgow, and had a sederunt of ten days. They sat
on Sunday, during divine service, for the purpose of
administering a bond to be subscribed by heritors
and the better classes of the community, binding
themselves, that they, their wives, families, and
servants, with their tenants, cottars, &c, would not
be present at any of the field preachings, or hold
any communication with the "outed" ministers.
This in effect made men in prominent stations re-
sponsible for the doings of hundreds of people — men
and women — over whom they had no actual control ;
but so great was the terror inspired by the proceed-
ings of council, that the bond was subscribed by
James Campbell, the provost, John Johnston, John
Campbell, and James Colquhoun, bailies ; the mem-
bers of town council, and a number of merchants
and tradesmen, amounting in all to 153. The bet-
ter to enforce this most stringent bond, and to ter-
rify the presbyterian s of the West of Scotland, the
* This ambulatory commission, for curbing the spirit of the
non conformists, must either have been composed of very gross
materials, or the members must have drunk deeply to blunt their
feeling of the vile wort in which they were engaged. It is af-
firmed by the historians of the time, that those who entertained
the commissioners best, had besides their dining-room, drinking,
and vomiting-room, sleeping rooms for the company who had
lost their senses. In one of their debauches nt Ayr. the devil's
health, it is said, was drunk at the cross about mi Inight.
chieftains of the north were summoned to the aid
of the privy council, and they speedily poured into
the lowlands, in the time of peace, nearly 5,000 of
their naked and barbarous followers, who acquired
the name of the " Highland Host," and who spread
themselves like locusts over the land — desolating
the estates and property of all who declined to grant
a bond which no living man could fulfil. In fact,
there is now no doubt that Lauderdale and those at
the head of affairs in Scotland, desired, for their own
base object of ultimate aggrandisement, to drive the
country into open rebellion by these most grinding and
oppressive proceedings. After remaining for some
time in Glasgow, the host departed loaded with
plunder. It then marched into Ayrshire, and in a
short time committed such havoc on farm stock and
other property, that the total loss in that county
was estimated at £137,499 Cs. Scots. The people of
the west, however, would neither rise in arms to
give colour to a rebellion, nor would they sign the
bond, except in insignificant numbers, and accord
ingly it was deemed expedient to dismiss the clans-
men, f A large body of them, amounting to nearly
2,000, returned by way of Glasgow; but when they
arrived on the south or Gorbals side, it happened
that the Clyde had risen so high as to be unforaable.
Thus favoured by chance, the students of the col-
lege, and many of the inhabitants, who, either by
themselves or friends, had suffered from their former
ravages, took the opportunity of resisting their
passage at the bridge. In this way they only per-
mitted 40 of the Celts to pass at a time, whom they
conducted out of the city by the West port, and
lightened them of their plunder at the same time.
After the victory of the Covenanters at Drumelog,
a party of them marched to Glasgow, and attempted
to take it from Graham of Claverhouse, and the
King's troops, who had retreated thither ; but though
they fought with determined bravery on the streets,
they were repulsed, and the dead bodies of the slain
left exposed for more than one day to be devoured
by the butchers' dogs. The battle of Bothwell brig
followed in which 400 of the Covenanters were
killed, and 1,200 taken prisoners, and this was fol-
lowed by oppressions, pains, and penalties, of the
most merciless character, in which many of the
citizens of Glasgow were involved ; these were tor-
turing of the person, and alienation of the property
of those who either did favour or were suspected of
favouring doctrines in opposition to those of "Black
Prelacy." But it is not intended here to follow
this subject into detail, deeply and painfully inter-
esting though it may be. Suffice it to say that alto-
gether apart from fines, tortures, prosecutions, and
banishments, many of the devoted "hill folk" were
hanged at Glasgow, their heads stuck on pikes on
the east side of the jail, and their bodies buried on
the north side of the Cathedral church. Over their
graves in more tolerant times was erected a me-
morial-stone and inscription, which still remains in
nearly its original position, although the tablet has
been renewed. The death of Charles the Second
brought little or no mitigation of the sufferings of
the Scottish people ; for the " Indulgence " was
generally rejected when it was known that it was
t When the Highlanders went back to their hills, which was
in February 167S, they appeared as if returning from the sack of
some besieged town. They carried with them plate, merchant
goods, webs of linen and of cloth, quantities of wearing apparel
and household furniture, and a good number of horses to bear
their plunder. It is remarkable, however, and to the credit of
this people, that they are not charged with any cruelty during
three months' residence at free quarters, although they were
greedy of spoil, and rapacious in extorting mone}-. Indeed, it
seems probable that, after all, the wild Highbinders had proved
gentler than was expected or wished by those who employed
them. — Sir Walter Scott's Tales of a Oranajather
GLASGOW.
,46
GLASGOW.
intended to pave 'he way not for episcopacy, but
for popery. Vast numbers of the better class of
people had emigrated to Holland, and amongst all
a change from the present corrupt and cruel govern-
ment was ,l a consummation most devoutly to be
wished for." It is true that during his vice-royalty
in Scotland, James II., when Duke of York, had
occasionally visited Glasgow in considerable pomp,
and had resided in the house of Provost Bell in the
Saltmarket; but the measures of persecution of
which he had been long the active agent, his own
despotic rule as a King, and the horror entertained by
the people generally agai istthe institution of either
episcopacy or popery, caused the landing of the
Prince of Orange in Torbay, on November 5, 1688,
to be regarded as a national blessing; and by no
class in the kingdom was this great political event
hailed with more heartfelt joy and sincerity than by
the citizens of Glasgow. As a proof of it, the city
levied and armed in the following year a battalion
of men who were placed under the command of the
Earl of Argyle and Lord Newbottle. These were
immediately marched to Edinburgh to assist in
guarding the convention of Estates, then deliberat-
ing upon the settlement of the crown in favour of
William and Mary. It is still matter of unques-
tioned tradition in Glasgow that this regiment was
raised in the course of a single day.*
The Darien Disaster. — When internal tranquillity
had been restored by the abdication of James II.,
the Scots, stimulated by the commercial example
of their southern neighbours, and anxious to become
a trading nation, entered with enthusiasm into the
scheme of colonising the isthmus of Darien, which
had been projected by William Paterson, a native of
the parish of Tinwald in Dumfries-shire, and whose
memory is still held in respect as the founder of the
bank of England. The settlement of Darien was
represented as the future El Dorado of commerce;
all the produce of China, India, and the spice islands,
would find its way into the bay of Panama, in the
Pacific ocean, and would thence be transferred by an
* Before leaving- this part of the narrative, anil with tlie view
of instructing as to the form of procedure in tile persecuting
times, it may not lie amiss to give a summary of the sufferings
and captivity of a citizen of Glasgow, who was one of the many
subjected to the atrocious discipline of the Scottish Privy Council.
We select tile case of Mr. John Spreull, apothecary. His fattier,
who iiad been a merchant in Paisley, was fined by Middleton
and obliged to flee ; and the son was apprehended because he
would not discover where his father was. After many trials lie
was released and left tiie country, though he returned about tiie
time of the battle of Bothwell brig, on account of which he had
again to leave the kingdom. During his absence, his wife and
family were turned out ot" house and shop, and all his moveables
secured. He returned to Scotland about the end of the year
1680, intending to carry his wife and family to Rotterdam. He
was apprehended at Edinburgh, November 12th, and next day
carried before the Duke and council, when the usual ensnaring
questions were put to liini ; — " Was the killing of Archbishop
Sharp murder ? Were the risings at Drumclog and Bothwell
rebellions V " Having denied all connection with the affairs of
Drumclog and Bothwell, and declined to pronounce them rebel-
lious, or give any opinion with regard to the killing of the Arch-
bishop, his foot was put into the instrument called the boot. The
following queries were proposed to him, and at every query the
hangman gave five strokes upon the wedges: — "Whether be
knew anything of a plot to blow up the abbey and the Duke of
York? Who was in the plot? Where Mr. Cargill was? And
whether he would subscribe his confession ? " Having answered
these queries in a manner unsatisfactory to the council, they or-
dered t tie old boot to be brought, alleging that the new one which
had been used was not so good. Mr. Spreull accordingly under-
went the torture asecond time, and was then carried to the prison
upon a soldier's back, and refused the benefit of a surgeon to at-
tend to bis mangled limbs. After being several times before the
council, he was loimd guilty, though without the slightest particle
of genuine proof. Indeed, be had previously been found not
guilty by ajury. Mr. Spreull was fined in the sum of £500 sterling,
and sent to imprisonment on the Bass Rock. Here he remained
for nearly six years, and llie length of his confinement afterwards
acquired for him, amongst his fellow citizens, the name of Uoss
lahil.
easy route across the isthmus to the settlement,
and exchanged for the manufactures of Europe.
Glasgow, which had already experienced to some
small extent the advantages of commerce, entered
into the speculation with great alacrity. The citi-
zens subscribed largely of their means — many of
them their all ; and not a few embarked personally
in the several expeditions. The last of these sailed
from Rothesay bay on the 14th September, 1699,
consisting of four frigates, with 1,200 emigrants;
and it is recorded that amongst them went away
the last of the once potent Stewarts of Minto, the
municipal chiefs of St. Mungo; but so much had
the means of this great family now become crippled,
that he did not possess even the humble dignity of
a shareholder in the company. The unhappy fate
of this great national undertaking of the Scottish
people is well known. It fell a sacrifice to the un-
worthy jealousies of the English, and the faithless-
ness of the King, William III., by whose obstructive
influence the colonists suffered from pestilence and
starvation on the one hand, and the open hostility of
the Spaniards on the other. In short, the destruc-
tion was complete, and out of the vast numbers of
hopeful and energetic emigrants who had gone out,
li ttle more than a score or two of beggared and broken-
down men ever again saw their native land. Hun-
dreds of families at home, who had been in affluent
circumstances, were ruined. So severely did Glasgow
suffer from the shock, that it was not till many years
subsequently, viz. in 1716, that her merchants pos-
sessed ships of their own. This treatment of the
first attempt of the Scots to plant a colony, coupled
with the massacre of Glencoe, were doubtless cir-
cumstances which, for long afterwards, gave the
inhabitants of the northern portion of the kingdom,
reason to look upon the government of the Prince
of Orange with feelings of abhorrence scarcely less
intense than those with which they had previously
regarded the rulers who planned, and the agents and
soldiery who conducted, the persecution of the Pres-
byterians.
The Union — Bebellions of 1715 and 1745 — Shaw-
field Riots, &c. — The proposal to unite England and
Scotland by legislative enactment was regarded as
the deathblow to the independence of our ancient
kingdom, and was opposed with great bitterness by
the inhabitants of Glasgow, especially those of the
lower orders. The populace became so much ex-
cited that the magistrates deemed it necessary to
issue a proclamation, commanding that not more
than three persons should assemble together after
sunset. A most injudicious and inflammatory ser-
mon, preached by the Rev. James Clark, the
minister of the Tron church, and which was re-
garded as a direct encouragement and injunction to
insurrection, caused the murmurs of discontent, to
which the opposition had been hitherto confined, to
rise into open violence. The mob-drum was beat
through the streets, when the people gathered to.
gether in immense numbers, and fairly overturned
the authority of the ordinary magistrates. The mob
disarmed the regular town-guard, stormed the tol-
booth, and seized the town's arms; which consisted
of two hundred and fifty halberts. With these they
marched about the streets, forcing their way into
the houses of the citizens in search of aims, and
plundering them at the same time. The house of
the Provost, Mr. Aird, was rifled, and he himself
only escaped with his life by timely concealment,
and" subsequent flight to Edinburgh. The rioters
then adopted the bold resolution of marching to the
capital, and dispersing the Parliament, and they
actually did set out under the leadership of a fellow
named Finlay. The insurrectionary host, however,
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747
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which was never a very numerous one, gradually
melted away, and when they reached Kilsyth, Finlay
and his associates thought it their wisest course to
sneak back again to Glasgow, lay down their stolen
arms, and separate. This man aiid some others were
afterwards apprehended and carried to Edinburgh,
but some time alter the Union act had passed into
law they were liberated — a proof at once of the
strength and lenient character of the government of
Queen Anne. Considering the discontented and
highly excited state of the people, this insurrection,
under other circumstances, might have proved a very
formidable one; but it fortunately failed to become
so, because there was an entire absence of competent
leaders, and no man of mark and likelihood in the
west of Scotland put a hand to it. A very short
period only elapsed before the citizens became
fully alive to the advantages conferred upon them
by the Union, in the opening of the American trade,
&c, which they entered into with great ardour, but
with becoming caution and prudence. We are justi-
fied, therefore, in regarding this as the epoch in
winch originated that successful career of industry
and enterprise which in due course rendered Glasgow
the chief seat of the commerce and manufactures of
Scotland.
The rebellion of 1715 did not much affect Glasgow,
exceptingin so far as it gave thecity an opportunity of
displaying its liberality and loyalty, and its sincere
attachment to the principles of the revolution of
1688. The citizens raised a regiment of 600 men,
which they drilled and maintained at their own ex-
pense— paying the common men at the rate of Sd.
per diem. This regiment was placed at the disposal
of government, and it rendered good service by per-
forming the important duty of guarding Stirling
castle, town, and bridge, while the Duke of Argyle
marched northward to meet the Highlanders under
the Earl of Mar, at Sheriff Muir. In the meantime,
the inhabitants bad zealously provided for the safety
of the city by improving its fortifications, and by
digging around it a trench twelve feet in breadth
and six feet in depth. The town's accounts at this
period are burdened with numerous entries of pay-
ments to artificers and labourers who were employed
in the operations of forming the trenches and barri-
cades— of planting the guns which they already
possessed, and of the freight of eight great guns from
Port Glasgow, &c. On the 5th December the Duke
of Argyle came to Glasgow, and took up his lodgings
with Mr. Campbell of Shawfield ; on the following
day, accompanied by the magistrates and several of
the nobility and gentry, he reviewed the troops then
lying in the town , and inspected the defensive prepara-
tions made by the inhabitants. Although the war did
not come to their own doors, the rebellion was never-
theless a costly affair to the citizens, and amongst
other grievances, we find the magistrates complain-
ing to the Duke of Argyle that they had to maintain
and guard 353 rebel prisoners, " who are lying in
the town's hand, and in custody in the castle prison,"
(the old bishop's palace). Notwithstanding all the
heavy charges to which it was subjected, the city
could afford to be grateful to those who had assisted
it in time of trial. In 1716, on the suppression of
the rebellion, they ordered " a silver tankard, weight-
ing fourty-eight unce, thirteen drop, at 7s. sterling
per unce ; and a sett of suggar boxes, weighting
nineteen unce, fourteen drop, at 8s. per unce; and
a server wing, weighting thirty-one unce and twelve
drop, at 6s. 4d. per unce," to be presented to Colonel
William Maxwell of Cardonnell, " as a mark of the
town's favour and respect towards him for his good
service in taking upon him the regulation and man-
agement of all the guards that were kept in the city
during the rebellion and confusions in the neigh-
bourhood."
Within a few years after the rebellion, viz., in
1725, a riot broke out in the city, which was so
painful and fatal in its consequences, that for half-
a-century after its occurrence, it could not be named
in the presence of any son of St. Mungo, without
calling up reminiscences of the most bitter and ex-
citing kind. Daniel Campbell, Esq. of Shawfield,
who was at that time member for the Glasgow dis-
trict of burghs, had rendered himself obnoxious to a
large body of the citizens, including all the lower
orders, by voting in parliament for the extension of
the molt tax to Scotland. On the 23d June, the day
on which the operation of the tax began, the mob
arose, obstructed the excisemen, and assumed such
a threatening attitude, that on the evening of the
next day, Captain Bushel entered the town with two
companies of Lord Delorain's regiment of foot. This
did not, however, prevent the mob assailing Mr.
Campbell's house, which was then by far the finest
in the city; and they did not leave it until the in-
terior was completely dismantled, and the furniture
destroyed. The magistrates, not dreading that the
mob would proceed to such acts of violence, had re-
tired to a tavern to spend the evening, and about
eleven p. m., tidings were brought them of the work
of havoc and demolition then in progress. At the
same time Bushel despatched a sergeant to inquire
if he would beat to arms, but the provost — who ap-
pears to have been either a timid man, or one aveise
to proceed to extremities — declined the proffered
military aid. Next day the mob was still in a very
excited state, and having irritated Bushel's sentinels
by throwing stones at them, be ordered out all his
men, and formed a hollow square in the vicinity of
the guard-house, which was then situated at the
south-west corner of Candleriggs street. This move-
ment was followed by another shower of stones upon
the bodies of the soldiers, upon which Captain Bush-
el— without any authority from the civil power —
ordered his men to fire, when two persons in the
crowd were killed on the spot and others wounded.
The inhabitants, now thirsting for revenge and ven-
geance, assailed the town-house magazine, carried
forth the arms, and rang the fire-bell to arouse the
city. The provost being alarmed at the probable
results of a further collision between the military
and the people, craved Bushel to remove his soldiers,
which he accordingly did in the direction of Dum-
barton castle. This did not avert the catastrophe,
however, for the citizens or mob, still excited and
enfiamed, followed on the line of retreat, and coming
up in great force, began to act upon the offensive,
when the captain again ordered hia men to fire, and
several persons fell. In all there were nine persons
killed, and seventeen wounded in this unfortunate
affair; and as usually happens in such cases, it was
not merely the assailants or rabble who suffered,
but many respectable persons were shot down, who
happened to be in the crowd or its neighbourhood,
either accidentally or from motives of curiosity. The
military reached the castle in safety, with the ex-
ception of two of the soldiers who we're captured by
the mob upon the march, and only one of whom
suffered ill-treatment. While these'bloodv proceed-
ings were in progress, Mr. Campbell and his family
were at his country house at Woodhall, about eight
miles distant from the city. He had himself re-
moved thither on Tuesday, the 22d of June (before
the malt tax came into operation), and next day be
was followed by bis lady. Some local chroniclers
aver that private threats or hints had reached him
that his house was to be assailed ; and had he given
this information in sufficient time to the magistrates,
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748
GLASGOW.
all the unhappy mischief might have been prevented.
The matter being represented at bead quarters, Gen-
eral Wade forthwith took possession of the city, with
a large body of troops, consisting of horse, foot, and
artillery. He was accompanied by the Lord Advo-
cate, Duncan Forbes, who proceeded to make an
investigation into the case, the result of which was
that 19 persons were apprehended, and delivered
over bound with ropes to Captain Bushel — who had
come tip from Dumbarton Castle — and by him con-
ducted to Edinburgh, and lodged in the castle. At
the same time, (16th July,) the whole of the magis-
trates from the provost down to the deacon-con-
vener (including even those who had been absent
from Glasgow during the riots), were apprehended
at the instance of the Lord Advocate, and im-
prisoned first in their own tolbooth, and afterwards
they were conducted by a force of horse and foot to
the prison of Edinburgh. The charge against them
was that they had favoured the riots and winked at
the destruction of Campbell's house; but it is now
plain that the utmost that can be laid to their
charge was want of due preparation and energy in
repressing the disturbance. After a day's detention
application was made to the Lords of Justiciary for
lilieration upon bail, which was at once granted.
They accordingly set out for Glasgow; and were
met, six miles from the city, by a large body of the
inhabitants, who escorted them home with every
demonstration of respect, the ringing of bells, &c.
The magistrates were afterwards freely absolved ;
but it fared otherwise with the 19 inferior persons
sent to Edinburgh, some of whom were whipped
through the streets of Glasgow, two banished for
life, and the major portion liberated, after a long
detention. An attempt was made, by the magis-
trates of Glasgow to bring Bushel to trial for the
murder of nine of the citizens; but he was screened
by "the powers that be," for he not only got out
of the difficulty but was promoted in the service.
To aggravate this already sufficiently distressing
case, Campbell, upon his application to parliament,
was granted indemnity for bis loss, for which the
community were ultimately mulcted in the then
large sum of £9,000. The inhabitants long regarded
this Shawfield affair with a burning sense of injus-
tice suffered by them, and the compensation granted
to Campbell was universally considered excessive.
The magnificent Shawfield mansion stood, sur-
rounded by a garden, across the bottom of the pre-
sent Glassford Street. Mr. Campbell sold the house
two years after the outrage to Colonel M'Dowall of
Castle-Sample; it afterwards passed into the hands
of Mr. Glassford of Dugaldston, and finally it was
sold to William Horn, builder, in 1792, when it was
removed to open up the street which still goes by
Mr. Glassford's name. With the compensation
money received from Glasgow, Mr. Campbell pur-
chased the fine estate and island of May, which
only passed from his representative — a most amiable
and accomplished gentleman — within the last half-
dozen years.
The recollection of the Shawfield slaughter and its
heavy fines did not prevent the citizens of Glasgow
from coming forward with alacrity in defence of the
reigning family, in the rebellion of 1745. On this
occasion they raised two battalions of 600 men each
for the service of Government. Charles Edward
wrote to the magistrates, demanding from them, as
the representatives of the corporation, that the sum
of £15,000 sterling, all the arms in the city, and the
arrears of taxes due to the government, should be
forwarded to him for the use of his army. The
magistrates did not comply at the time, as they had
hopes of relief from the army of Sir John Cope ; upon
which the demand of the prince was enforced by Mr.
John Hay, formerly a writer to the Signet, and now
quarter-master in the Highland army, who came
to Glasgow, with a party of horse, accompanied by
Glengyle, the chief of the Macgregors. The magis-
trates, with much difficulty, induced Mr. Hay to ac-
cept a composition of £5,000 in money, and £500 in
goods, with which he departed on the 30th of Sep-
tember, after having been quartered four days in
the city. After the romantic and unfortunate ex-
pedition into England, Charles, during the north-
ward retreat from Derby moved towards the West,
and entered Gbsgow with the main body of his
forces on Christmas day. The necessities of the
mountaineers were at this time extreme. The great
majority of them were bareheaded and barefooted ;
their skin was tanned quite red with the weather;
such garments as they had were in rags ; and these,
with their matted hair, long beards, and keen and
famished aspect, imparted to them an appearance
peculiarly savage and ferocious. At this time, the
volunteers, equipped at the expense of the city,
were posted at Edinburgh, for the defence of the
capital. Alike to punish the city for appearing n
arms against him, and to clothe his naked host, the
Chevalier ordered the magistrates forthwith to pro-
vide 6,000 short cloth coats, 12,000 linen shirts,
6,000 pairs of shoes, 6,000 pairs of hose, 6,000
waistcoats, and 6,000 blue bonnets. By very great
exertions the greater portion of these articles were
supplied in a few days. He also exacted large con-
tributions in bestial, corn, hay, and straw. The
Pretender evacuated the city on 3d January 1746,
after a sojourn of ten days, and took with him host-
ages for the supply of the remaining portion of the
clothing still unfurnished. These goods were after-
wards duly forwarded to the rebel camp at Ban-
nockburn.
While in Glasgow the Chevalier lodged in the
house of Mr. Glassford of Dugaldston, which had
formerly belonged to Mr. Campbell of Shawfield,
and winch, notwithstanding its former " gutting,"
was still the most elegant in the city. He sat down
at table twice a-day^ accompanied by some of his
officers, and a few devoted Jacobite ladies, whose
sympathies he was often more successful in enlist-
ing than those of their male relatives. After his
men had been got into better condition by being fed
and clothed, Charles treated the inhabitants to a
grand review on the Green ; but they looked coldly
on ; and indeed so odious was his cause that many
of the principal inhabitants suspended business by
closing their shops and counting houses during his
stay. He. remarked with bitterness that nowhere
had he made so few friends as in Glasgow; for he
only procured 60 adherents during his sojourn, and
these were the very scum of the place. It is matter
of tradition in Glasgow, that but for the manly and
generous resistance of Cameron of Lochiel, the city
would have been sacked, and afterwards laid in
ashes by the Highlanders. The Glasgow volunteers
stood on the royal side at the battle of Falkirk,
fought on 17th 'January. Without imputing to
them any acts of heroism, it is undoubted that thjy
behaved' creditably, and in a manner which put the
courage of many of the regulars to the blush.
Finally, they were thrown into confusion, not by
the enemy, but bv being ridden over by the craven
regiment'of dragoons, which had been commanded
by the lamented Gardiner, and which behaved so
ignobly at the battle of Preston. While thus
thrown into disorder, they were severely handled
by the Highlanders, who' always regarded those
who volunkirily took up arms against them with
much stronger feelings of hostility than they evinc-
GLASGOW.
749
GLASGOW.
od towards the regular troops whose proper trade
was fighting. Of the Glasgow regiment 22 were
killed, 11 wounded, and 14 taken prisoners. Dugald
Graham, the accurate metrical chronicler of the re-
hellion of 1745, and who subsequently became the
city bellman, details the sad plight to which the
Glasgow militia was reduced. After narrating the
defeat of Hawley'a horse by the Highlanders, he
proceeds : —
" The south side being fairly won,
They faced north as had been done:
Where next stood, to bide the crash,
The volunteers, who zealous,
Kept firing close, till near surrounded,
And by the flying horse confounded :
They suffered sair into this place,
No Highlander pitied their case.
' You cursed militia,' they did swear,
' What a devil dill bring you hcrei "
In 1740 Parliament granted £10,000 to the city as
part indemnification for the losses sustained from the
rebels.
The next important affair in which we find the
citizens of Glasgow engaged, is the cordial effort
which they made to assist government at the out-
break of the American war of independence, or, the
" Eevolt of the Colonists," as it was then termed.
Now-a-days, however, these exertions are attributed
more to a feeling of self-interest than a sentiment of
fiure patriotism ; for Glasgow had long enjoyed a
ion's share in the tobacco trade, by which her citi-
zens were enriched; and the very existence of this
lucrative traffic was threatened by the war which
had broken out. Upon the news of the first deter-
mined stand made by the Americans at Lexington
and Bunker's Hill, in 1775, reaching Glasgow, the
magistrates convened a meeting of the inhabi-
tants, when it was resolved to give all support to
government in its efforts to break the spirit of the
colonists. Accordingly a body of 1,000 was raised
at an expense of more than £10,000, and placed at
the disposal of His Majesty. It is curious to know
that the determination to subdue the Americans
took so strong a hold of the mind of the Glasgow
people, that many of the principal citizens formed
themselves into a recruiting corps for the purpose
of completing the numbers of the Glasgow regi-
ment. Mr. James Finlay, father of the late Mr.
Kirkman Finlay, of Castle-Toward, played the bag-
pipe in the recruiting hand ; Mr. John Wardrop, a
Virginia merchant, beat a drum ; and other " citi-
zens of credit and renown" officiated as fifers,
standard-bearers, and broad-swordmen. Mr. Spiers
of Elderslie, Mr. Cunningham of Lainshaw, and
)ther merchants hired their ships as transports;
but Mr. Glassford of Dugaldston, who was the
most extensive foreign merchant then in Glasgow —
having- 25 ships of his own with their cargoes, — did
not approve of the coercive measures then in pro-
gress, and laid up the most of his vessels in the
harbour of Port-Glasgow.
In 1780, during the " No Popery" mania, Glas-
gow imitated the London Lord George Gordon riots
on a small scale, by destroying the shop and manu-
factory of a respectable man, Mr. Bagnall, a potter,
because he was a Eoman Catholic. For a time the
city was in the entire possession of the mob, and
much damage was done; but as usual the com-
munity had afterwards to pay for the havoc which
these thoughtless men committed. In 1787, the
manufacturers proposed a reduced scale of wages to
their workmen, in consequence of which the
weavers " went out on strike," and many acts of
violence were perpetrated against the persons and
property of those other workmen who had acceded
to the terms of the masters. Eventually, the
magistrates were obliged to call in the 39th regi-
ment of foot, under Colonel Kellit; hut as the sol-
diers were assailed in the Drygate with brick-bats,
&c, the riot act was read, when the soldiers fired
on the mob, and three persons were killed, and
several wounded. The riotous spirit was fairly
subdued by this painful measure; and it is a curi-
ous fact, that afterwards many of the weavers en-
listed into the very regiment which had inflicted
this punishment upon their brethren.
During the Radical ferment of 1819-20, the citi-
zens of Glasgow were kept in a most painful state
of excitement and suspense. The working classes
were in great distress and strongly embued with a
revolutionary spirit, incited, it is now well-known,
to a great extent, by vile spies, who of course car-
ried their dupes to a certain point, and then left
them in the lurch. Several of the Glasgow work-
men were present at the rising at Bonnymnir, and
those who escaped the lash of the law were glad to
escape to America. On 20th August, 1820, a silly
creature named James Wilson, was hanged and be-
headed in Glasgow for his share in the Radical in-
surrection, which was no less than the fanatical
project of marching from the village of Strathaven,
at the head of a few weavers, with the intention of
capturing the city. It was considered that a less
rigorous punishment might have met the demerits
of a half-crazed old man like Wilson; but at all
events it is to be hoped this is the last occasion on
which we will hear of the axe and block being used
in Glasgow, or anywhere else in the kingdom.
There have been many other disturbances in the
city, principally caused by workmen's strikes ; hut
with the exception of a most formidable out-break,
which disgraced our own day, none of these have
been attended with loss of life.
The Itlots of 1848. — These were perhaps the most
serious riots which ever occurred in Glasgow, — not
so much on account of the events which actually
took place, as from the disaster and catastrophe
which were threatened and prevented ; and from
the circumstance also that they excited for a day or
two a feeling of the greatest insecurity and alarm
over the whole kingdom, and were spoken of in
some of the continental journals as the commence-
ment of a political revolution in Great Britain. It
must be remembered that at the period in question,
the public mind was in a state of extraordinary ex-
citement. The French revolution of February,
1S48, which had expelled Louis Philippe, inaugur-
ated the Republic and finally established the Second
Empire, had just then taken place, and the charac-
ter of the extraordinary proceedings in France was
the subject of conversation in every circle. At the
same time trade was greatly dislocated in this
country ; vast numbers of workpeople were unem-
ployed and suffering, and not a few were discon-
tented in a political sense. In the first days
of the month of March, so much distress ex-
isted amongst the lower orders in Glasgow from
lack of employment, that the authorities set
many of the unemployed to the work of stone-
breaking; and. Until labour on a more exten-
sive scale could be organised, meal was given by
way of immediate relief at the City Hall, to almost
all who chose to apply for it, on the afternoon and
evening of Saturday the 4th March. Meanwhile
large meetings (ostensibly of the unemployed) were
daily held on the Green ; and on the following day,
(Sunday,) at one of these great gatherings, political
harangues of a very inflammatory description were
spoken by designing demagogues, who urged the
people to demand food or money as a right, irre-
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GLASGOW.
spective of any equivalent for them in the shape of
labour. On Monday the 6th, another great meet-
ing was held on the Green, swelled by this time by
all the thieves and desperadoes in the city, who,
from their usual dens in the wynds, vennels, and
closes had scented the mischief which was brewing,
and came into the light of day to originate or aug-
ment confusion and disorder that they might pro-
fit by the consequences. At this meeting very
wild sentiments were littered, and more than once
the multitude was encouraged to assert its rights,
and to " do a deed worthy of the name of France."
After spending some hours in making speeches, it
was resolved that the people on the Green should
proceed to the City Hal), and ascertain what
measures the magistrates and relief committee were
taking for the relief of the unemployed. The
treasurer of the Relief fund, with his assistants,
had in fact been employed all day in distributing
schedules and tickets, and in making arrangements
for a general supply of meal and soup to the really
necessitous, until, as has been said, work could be
provided. It was, of course, impossible to hold
conference with such a large body of clamorous
people, as that which presented itself before and
behind the City Hall, in Candleriggs and Albion
Street. In short, it was not relief in the shape of
either meal, soup, or labour, that was now wanted ;
for the fellows who directed the movement, after
overturning some of the Green Market stalls in the
bazaar, again moved off with their followers cheer-
ing and shouting towards the Green and eastern
parts of the city. On the Green, they armed them-
selves with the iron railings opposite Monteith row,
which they tore from their sockets, in addition
to such stobs and bludgeons as they could pick
up, and brandishing these in their hands, and
shouting and yelling, they again entered the
city, a little before four o'clock. They sacked the
bakers' and provision shops in London Street as
they passed along, and reaching Trongate, they
assailed and gutted the shop of Mrs. Musgrove,
gunmaker, taking possession of the guns, pistols,
and ammunition. Hardware shops shared the
same fate, and indeed it may be said that the plun-
der of every open door was indiscriminate. The
mob, being now partially armed, dispersed them-
selves in various directions; but the main body,
lifiing the shops as they went along, found its way
by various avenues into Ingram Street, and marched
along, as if with the intention of taking possession
of the Exchange, but as timely warning had been
given the doors were closed. The banks also had
been apprised in time to take similar precautions.
In Exchange Square the mob invaded the shop of
Mr. Martin, gunmaker, where they got a vast ac-
cession to their stock of guns, pistols, and powder,
and as they now began to discharge their fire-arms
in the streets, the peaceable inhabitants, taken by
surprise, fled before them in all directions. Turn-
ing from Exchange Square into Buchanan Street,
the rioters made a halt at the shop of Messrs. Fin-
lay and Field, watchmakers and jewellers, which
in five minutes they rifled of property to the amount
of £1,648. The main body then proceeded down
Buchanan Street, and passing along Glasgow
Bridge, fell upon, amongst others, the shops of ship-
chandlers and watchmakers, in Clyde I'lace and
neighbourhood, from which they abstracted much
valuable property. Dividing into minor sections,
they plundered the shops in the cross streets,
smashing the windows as they went along, and
committed great havoc in the premises of the pro-
vision merchants, in Main Street. A party which
had left the main body carried on the work of
plunder in the Gallowgate, and others careering
down Salt market Street, crossed Hutchison's Bridge,
and robbed some of the shops in Crown Street of
property to a considerable amount. As the various
detachments of the rioters rolled along they re-
ceived accessions every now and then in the persons
of thievishly-inclined boys and lads, and loose and
dishonest women. It was evident that starvation
had little to do with the rising ; for in many cases
tea, sugar, and provisions were scattered on the
street, and in passing under the railway arches in
Gorbals, the ruffians tossed up the loaves they had
stolen from the provision shops, and fired at them
with their muskets.
It is unnecessary to follow this outbreak through
all its ramifications. Suffice it to say that for fully
an hour and a half the city was as completely at the
mercy of these two or three bands of blackguards
as if they had taken it by storm. It was a thiev-
ing-raid, on a most daring and majestic scale, per-
petrated in the light of open day. The more ex-
perienced thieves and desperadoes, who evidently
headed the riot, confined themselves to gold
watches, jewellery, and other valuables, and
sneaked off when their pockets were full ; but the
scum of whatever neighbourhood the rioters ap-
proached always turned out to take advantage of
the general license which had been created, and
men, women, and children were seen running
through the streets to their own houses with
cheeses, chests of tea, firkins of butter, new boots
and shoes, or in short any thing which came most
ready to hand. Having no apprehensions of such
an event, and magnifying the strength of the rioters,
the citizens were completely panic-stricken. Shop-
keepers closed their premises before the advancing
disorderly bands and fled, and for a time all looked
in vain for the appearauce of the police or the
military. In two or three cases, shops were suc-
cessfully defended by determined men against the
thieves, who, although armed and formidable enough
in appearance, seemed to have had no notion of
fighting ; in other cases, the inhabitants were so
utterly " cowed" that a greater number looked on
than the band was composed of, which was com-
mitting robbery before their eyes. It is not now
disputed, that, had a body of from 50 to 100 of the
officers of police been led against the rioters at the
outset, the mob would have been scattered to the
winds ; but on this occasiou the police were sin-
gularly wanting in their duty. In fact they were
seen no where, except in the way of flight, although
had there been any one to lead them, as they had
been led before, or as they have been led since, it
is not at all likely that we would have been called
on to devote a chapter to the Glasgow riots of 1848.
Only a few months previously the police force of
the city and suburbs had been amalgamated under
one management, and a gentleman who came with
high recommendations from the Irish Constabulary
was appointed to the command of the whole. It is
enough to say that pending the investigation which
immediately followed, he resigned the situation.
Glasgow was rescued from the horde of plunder-
ing miscreants by the military, although the
latter were considered long enough in coining. On
Monday afternoon, at three o'clock, and immediately
after the ordinary sitting of the police committee,
the whole of the magistrates assembled in the
police buildings, and proceeded to devise measures
for giving work to the unemployed. On receiving
accounts of the first appearance of outbreak, they
despatched a messenger to the then cavalry barracks,
in Eglinton Street, Gorbals; but he was obstructed
for a time by the disorderly state of the streets, and
GLASGOW.
751
GLASGOW.
meanwhile accounts were brought in of the alarm-
ing progress of the mob. Bailie Stewart, (subse-
quently Lord Provost,) the acting chief magistrate
in the absence of the Lord Provost, who was attend-
ing his parliamentary duties in London — im-
mediately proceeded in a carriage accompanied by
Mr. Sheriff Bell, to the cavalry barracks; but as
the troopers had just come in from parade ; as they
were in undress, and the horses in the stables, — as
they had as little expected to be called on for active
duty, as the citizens had expected to be assailed —
much valuable time was lost in preparation. So
soon as one troop was ready, Bailie Stewart rode at
the head of it into the city, leaving Sheriff Bell to
come up with another troop, which ere long joined
the first. So soon as they appeared, the miscreants
who had been engaged in plunder fled in all direc-
tions. They threw the guns and other articles,
they had stolen, along the streets and over the
bridges. About the same time, Bailie Orr (now
■ — 1855 — Lord Provost) came up with the 1st
Royals from the infantry barracks. Although
the" work of plunder was at an end, the aspect
of the city was extremely alarming; for thou-
sands of that loose class which every great
town contains, assembled in the Saltmarket, High
Street, Gallowgate, and Trongate, in the neighbour-
hood of the Cross, and seemed determined to con-
tinue and take part in any disorder or mischief.
The riot act was read, and the cavalry cleared the
streets by making various charges. In the course
of their work they destroyed three barricades, con-
sisting of sundry carts which had been overturned
in King Street, Gallowgate, and High Street, and
which were the first elections of the kind which
had been seen in Glasgow. The infantry also took
possession of the streets already named, and closed
up all the thoroughfares leading from or into them.
The citizens also hurried by hundreds to the Ex-
change, which had been appropriated as a sort of
head quarters, where they were sworn in as special
constables, and supplied with batons. They then
patrolled the streets in strong parties, dispersing
the rioters in all directions, and while engaged in
this duty, they were often assailed with showers of
stones. Meanwhile, the mob had broken 600 gas
globes, in Gallowgate, High Street, &c, and ex-
tinguished the lights in the most of them ; but
from the position taken up by the military in the
heart of the district which principally supplied the
canaille, and from the continued perambulation of
the street by the special constables in strong bodies,
the evil-disposed were never able to gather in force
at any one point, and a repetition of the disgraceful
scenes of the afternoon, or perhaps something worse,
was averted. By and by the infantry were with-
drawn from the streets, and they bivouacked during
the night, partly in the Eoyal Exchange, and partly
in the Tontine Reading Room. In the Exchange,
the newspapers were cleared away, and the room
wore a singular appearance, with the soldiers' guns
and bayonets piled round the pillars, and the soldiers
themselves occupying the ordinary places of the
merchants who congregate on 'change. In the
course of the night two companies of the 71st light
Infantry, who had been sent for by telegraph,
arrived by special train from Edinburgh.
The following morning (Tuesday) opened very
uneasily in Glasgow. The inhabitants were be-
wildered at the sudden and daring disruption of
settled order which had taken place, and naturally
feared that the rioters might again assemble, and
repeat the work of plunder. The insurrection (so
to speak) had now brought into the light of day
from their dingy retreats immense hordes of raga-
muffins, who desired nothing better than (hat the
game should be played over again. Their numbers
were swelled by thousands of thoughtless boys, and
lads, as well as by the full proportion of that silly class
of people who always join in a crowd to sec what is
going on, from motives of curiosity alone. A num-
ber of shops were opened in the first instance, but
when tidings spread of the disturbed state of Bridge-
ton in the eastern district of the city, these were
soon closed again, and business was entirely sus-
pended. Military were stationed at the various
prominent points of the city, and the streets were
patrolled by bodies of constables, some of them be-
tween 200 and 300 strong. The forenoon, however,
was not to pass over without bloodshed. About
half-past twelve, information was brought to the
Calton or Eastern Police Office, that it had been
resolved by a large meeting of sans culottes, held on
the Green, to stop the public mills, and dismantle
the gas works, with the intention of again dislocat-
ing the industrial and social order of the city. A
small body of the veteran battalion, amounting only
to 17, along with some special constables, and a
small body of the ordinary police, proceeded,
headed by Mr, Smart, the assistant superintendent
of the Calton district of police (now the superin-
tendent of the whole police of the municipality),
to oppose rioters. They found the latter already
commencing an attack on the silk mill of Messrs.
Campbell in John Street, and drove them into the
Green. The mob, however, returned in mighty
force, and after the veteran battalion and police had
made several charges, they found it was quite im-
possible permanently to drive back several thou-
sands of disorderly and apparently furious people,
and they accordingly deemed it prudent to retreat.
They had been previously assailed by showers of
stones, and as the force moved up John Street, Mr.
Smart seized one of the fellows, who had just de-
livered a missile, and handed him over to his party.
This only rendered the mob more furious, and stones
now flew in all directions wounding the constables
and pensioners of whom the small party of the
veteran battalion was composed. Arrived at the
head of John Street, the force under Mr. Smart was
now in a most critical situation; for they were in a
centre exposed to the opening of four streets, all of
which were occupied by the mob, who by this time
had rescued the prisoner. Stones and brickbats still
mercilessly assailed the small party, and cries of
" murder every one of them" were heard from the
mob. As they were now evidently on the point
of being overwhelmed, the pensioners brought their
muskets to the rest, and fired into the mob. For a
moment, the rioters believed that this was nothing
but a mere powder or blank cartridge demonstration,
and were still about to close in upon the pensioners;
but it was soon discovered that one man had been
shot right through the brain, and was already dead,
and that several others lay bleeding on the street.
The courage of the rioters evaporated the moment
they found that the armed force was in earnest.
Much regret was excited by the case of Mr. Alex-
ander, a respectable provision merchant, who had
previously assisted as a special constable and who
was shot through the body almost at his own door.
He died on the following day. A weaver lad, one
of the crowd, was shot through the breast, and also
died on the following day. In all about a dozen in-
dividuals suffered from the fire-arms, from the
effects of which three additional persons died — mak-
ing six killed in all — and others were maimed for
life. An attempt was made to get up a cry for
revenge by carrying through the streets the dead
body of the man who had been shot ; but all at-
GLASGOW.
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GLASGOW
tempts at further outrage were repressed. A good
deal of maudlin sentimentalism was expended in
denouncing the pensioners for firing, without any-
legal order, and without the presence of a magis-
trate. The citizens generally, however, judged
rightly that the men fired in self-defence; and there
is no doubt that this firing was efficacious, for it at
once stopped the riots. In fact, from circumstances
that have since come to light, it is undoubted that
the fusilade at this time and place averted the de-
struction of an immense mass of property, as well
as a much more serious loss of life. The outrages
of the two days elicited a perfect burst of loyalty.
Ten thousand special constables were sworn in
during the week, the better class of citizens, and
immense numbers of sober and well-conditioned
working men offering themselves for the protection
of life and property with the greatest enthusiasm.
At the same time a proposal was made to form a
volunteer rifle corps of 1,500 men ; but as order was
so rapidly restored this was not carried into effect.
The riots, however, gave rise to the formation of a
volunteer cavalry force, called the Queen's own
Glasgow regiment.
An exaggerated and erroneous account of this riot
was transmitted to London, giving the rising a
political and revolutionary complexion, which
created a panic for a moment over the whole king-
dom, and even affected the public funds. The tid-
ings also gave rise to attempts at similar disturb-
ance in London, Edinburgh, Manchester, and other
towns; but these were put down without much
difficulty. Retribution followed in due course. A
large number of individuals, charged with minor
offences in connection with the riots, were tried be-
fore the local magistrates, and on conviction were
sentenced to periods of imprisonment varying from
60 days downwards. Those against whom the
more aggravated charges were made were tried at
the spring circuit before Lords Mackenzie and
Medwyn, when 35 were convicted. Of these, two
were sentenced to 18 years' transportation; nine to
10 years' transportation ; three to 7 years' transporta-
tion; eighteen to 2 years' imprisonment; and three
to imprisonment for one year. The convicts, almost
without exception, belonged to the very lees of the
people. The value of property destroyed and carried
away and the expences connected with the riots
amounted to £7,111 9s. 5d., which sum was raised
by public assessment on the inhabitants.
Her Majesty's Visit to Glasgow. — Glasgow was
honoured with the first royal visit since the
days of the Stuarts on 14th August, 1849. The
Royal Squadron arrived in the Clyde on the pre-
ceding day, and lay all night in the Gareloch. On
the 14th ' Her Majesty with Prince Albert, the
Prince of Wales, the Princess Royal, Princess
Alice, and Prince Alfred, and accompanied by Sir
George Grey, Secretary of State for the Home de-
partment, and the other members of the royal suite,
sailed up the Clyde in the steam yacht " Fairy," and
arrived at a beautiful mooring platform which had
been erected at the foot of West Street, on the South
side of the river. Here the Lord Provost and Magis-
trates of Glasgow, and various public bodies con-
nected with the city, and with the West of Scot-
land, were received on board the yacht and pre-
sented to the Queen. On this occasion Her Majesty
was pleased to confer the honour of Knighthood on
James Anderson, Esq. the Lord Provost. A line
of procession in carriages was then formed, and Her
Majesty proceeded along Clyde Place, Glasgow
Bridge, (at the north end of which a beautiful and
costly triumphal arch had been erected,) Jamaica
Street. Argyle Street (to Buchanan Street), Buchanan
Street, West George Street, north side of George
Square, George Street, upper High Street, and Oastlt
Street, to the Cathedral. The Royal party was con-
ducted over the whole of the interior, including the
Chapter house, the Lady Chapel, and the Crypts;
and Her Majesty and Prince Albert expressed
great admiration of the architectural proportions
of the magnificent structure. On leaving the
Cathedral Her Majesty proceeded to the University,
where she was received by the Principal and Pro-
fessors; after which the procession passed along
High Street, Trongate, Argyle Street, and thence
turned up Queen Street to the station of the Edin-
burgh and Glasgow railway, whence Her Majesty
and suite set out for Perth, on the route to Bal-
moral. Her Majesty's reception was enthusiastic
in the extreme. The whole line of street, extend-
ing to nearly three miles, was railed off by a strong
palisading on both sides, so that not only was the
route for the royal procession kept entirely clear,
but ample security was thus given against the oc-
currence of accidents, by preventing the pressure
of the crowd at any one point. In fact not a finger
was hurt during the day, although it was calculated
that nearly 400,000 people (including masses from
all the surrounding districts) were upon the streets.
The Sheriff of the county Mr. (now Sir) Archibald
Alison rode along side of the royal carriage, and
explained to her majesty the principal public or
prominent buildings along the route. In the even-
ing the magistrates gave a sumptuous banquet, in
the Old Town Hall at the Cross, — Sir James Ander-
son, the newly made knight, (afterwards M.P. for
the Stirling district of burghs,) in the chair.
Trade.
Commercial History. — According to the testimony
of M'Ure, the first "promoter and propagator" of
trade in Glasgow, was William Elphinstone, a
cadet of the noble family of Elphinstone, who
settled in the city in the reign of King James I. of
Scotland, about 1420, and became a merchant. He
is mentioned as a curer of salmon and herrings for
the French market, for which brandy and salt were
brought back in return. The person mentioned as
the second ' promoter" of trade is Archibald Lyon,
son of the Lord Glammis, who came to Glasgow,
with Archbishop Dunbar, became a merchant, and
" undertook great adventures and voyages in trad-
ing to Poland, France and Holland." At this time,
however, the foreign trade must have been of a very
limited character; but from the occasional mention
in the council records of merchants proceeding
to the English markets, it is evident that the
inhabitants conducted a fair amount of inland
traffic. In 1651, Commissioner Tucker having been
directed by the government to report on the revenue
of the excise and customs of Scotland, speaks of
Glasgow as follows: "With the exception (says he)
of the coliginers, all the inhabitants are traders:
some to Ireland, with small smiddy coals, in open
boats from four to ten tons, from whence they bring
hoops, rungs, barrel staves, meal, oats, and butter;
some to France, with plaiding, coals, and herrings,
from which the return is salt, pepper, raisins, and
prunes; some to Norway for timber. There have
likewise been some who have ventured as far as
Barbadoes, but the loss which they sustained, by
being obliged to come home late in the year, has
made them discontinue going thither any more.
The mercantile genius of the people is strong, if
they were not checked and kept under by the shal-
lowness of their river, every day more and more in-
creasing and filling up, so that no vessel of any bur-
den can come up nearer the town than 14 miles,
GLASGOW.
753
GLASGOW.
where they must unload and send up their timber
on rafts, and all other commodities by three or four
tons of goods at a time, in small cobbles or boats, of
three, four, or five, and none above six tons a boat.
There is in this place a collector, a cheque, and four
writers. There are 12 vessels belonging to the
merchants of the port, viz. three of 150 tons each,
one of 140, two of 100, one of 50, three of 30, one of
15, and one of 12; none of which come up to the
town — total, 957 tons." In 1665, during the war
with the Dutch, the merchants of Glasgow procured
a letter of marque from the Duke of Lennox and
Richmond, heritable Lord High Admiral of Scot-
land, in favour of Captain Robert Allan, com-
mander of the George of Glasgow. This vessel,
which though little more than 60 tons burthen, was
dignified with the name of a " friggate," carried
five pieces of ordnance, 32 muskets, 12 half-pikes,
18 pole axes, 30 swords, 3 barrels of powder, and
provisions for six months. She had 60 of a crew.
The exploits of the George, if any, are not men-
tioned; but other privateers belonging to the port
did really levy black-mail upon the Dutch; and
notice, for instance, is given in the London Gazette
of November 8, 1666, that a " privateer of Glasgow,
one Chambers, has lately brought in a Dutch caper
of 8 guns, with a prize ship, laden with salt." In
1674 a company for carrying on the whale fishery
and soap-making was formed in Glasgow. The
company employed 5 ships, and had extensive
premises at Greenock for boiling blubber, and
curing fish, known by the name of the Royal close.
An advertisement from the company appeared in
che Glasgow Commit, on 11th November 1715,
being the first advertisement in the first newspaper
published in the west of Scotland, intimating that
" any one who wants good black or speckled soap,
may be served by Robert Luke, manager of the
soaperie at Glasgow, on reasonable terms." The
soaperie then stood at the head of Candleriggs. In
relating the progress of the "sea adventurers" of
Glasgow, subsequent to 1 668, M'Ure instances the
case of Walter Gibson, son of John Gibson of Over-
newton, who in one year packed and cured 300 lasts
of herrings, at 6 pounds sterling per last, containing
12 barrels each last; and having freighted a Dutch
ship, called the St. Agatha, of 450 tons, he de-
spatched the ship, with the great cargo, to St.
Martin's in France, where he got for each barrel of
herring a barrel of brandy and a crown; and the
ship, at her return, was loaded with salt and brandy.
The produce came to a prodigious sum, in con-
sequence of which he bought this vessel, and other
two large ships, and traded to France, Spain, Nor-
way, Sweden, and Virginia. This enterprising
merchant was the first who brought iron to Glas-
gow; the shopkeepers before that period having
been supplied from the ports on the east coast.
About this time, Messrs. Anderson of Dowhill and
others, the owners of the ship Providence, first im-
ported "cherry sack" to Glasgow, the beverage
having been previously obtained from the mer-
chants at Leith.
The commerce of Glasgow, however, received its
first great stimulus from the measure which had
been regarded as one tha t would ruin the country,
viz. the Union. This opened up to them the trade
with the colonies, and soon thereafter we find the
Glasgow merchants sending out their "adventures"
to Virginia and Maryland and bringing back
tobacco leaf in return. They did not at this time
possess any suitable ships of their own, and were
accordingly obliged to charter them, which they
did principally from the port of Whitehaven. They
conducted their early enterprises according to a
I.
very safe and "canny" rale — sending out a super-
cargo with each vessel, who disposed of the goods
with the one hand and acquired the tobacco with
the other, and as credit was neither asked nor given,
the merchants were enabled to strike a final balance
at the end of every voyage. This primitive mode
of managing business prospered, and the Glasgow
merchants, instead of hiring from their neighbours,
began to build ships of their own; and in 1718, the
first vessel which belonged to Glasgow owners
crossed the Atlantic. She was built at Greenock,
and only registered 60 tons. The infant com-
merce of the Clyde, however, had to pass through
some fiery ordeal; not the least of which was that
caused by the combination formed against it by the
merchants of London, Liverpool, Bristol, White-
haven, &c. Whether from superior intelligence
and acuteness in buying and selling, or from pru-
dence and economy in managing their business,
and being contented with moderate profits, the
Glasgow tobacco houses, ere long, not only secured
the lion's share of the foreign export trade, such as
supplying the farmers-general of France, but they
even undersold the English merchants in their own
home markets. This was a galling state of matters
to the merchants of South Britain, and accordingly
they complained to the government, that the Glas-
gow traders conducted their business upon, and
reaped their advantages from, a system of fraud and
spoliation of the public revenue. A searching in-
vestigation followed in 1721, which resulted in the
Lords of the Treasury finding, — "That the corn-
plaints of the merchants of London, Bristol, Liver-
pool, Whitehaven, &c, are groundless, and proceed
from a spirit of envy, and not from a regard to the in
terests of trade, or the King's revenue." The English
merchants, however, were far from being satisfied
with this finding and reproof; and in the following
year, they made another formal complaint to Parlia-
ment against Glasgow, in consequence of which
commissioners were sent down to the Clyde, who
imposed so many vexatious regulations on the trade,
that it languished and struggled for its very. life.
Expensive and harassing lawsuits followed, and it
was not till 1735 that the Glasgow merchants were
enabled fairly to beat off the annoyance of the Eng-
lish ports. From this time the trade was conducted
on more liberal principles; the old supercargo
system was abandoned; partners or resident agents
were established throughout the tobacco-producing
colonies; the trade increased prodigiously, and
princely fortunes were realised. Soon after this
period the number of ships, brigantines, and sloops
belonging to Glasgow amounted to 67, and these
traded to Virginia, Jamaica, Antigua, St. Kitts,
Barbadoes, Gibraltar, Holland, Stockholm, and Ire-
land, besides maintaining a considerable coasting
trade. The halcyon era of the tobacco trade is
reckoned from 1740 till the declaration of American
Independence. During this period by far the
greater portion of the entire disposable capital of
the city was embarked in it. In Denholm's His-
tory of Glasgow, it is stated that " in the year 1772,
out of 90,000 hhds. of tobacco imported into Great
Britain, Glasgow alone imported 49,000 of these.''
The year before the American war of independence,
which was the last of this golden era, the imports
into the Clyde were 57,143 hhds. the property of 42
merchants, and of this not more than 1,600 hhds.
were retained for local consumption. The importance
of this traffic, therefore, to the commercial capital
of the West, will explain more readily than any
thing else, the alacrity and seeming loyalty dis-
played by the Glasgow merchants in raising troopp
to assist the Government in putting down what was
3 n
GLASGOW
754
GLASGOW.
then termed the " revolt of the colonists," — a revolt
which was destined to result in the foundation of
the United States of America.
Although the giant tobacco trade or monopoly
was thus knocked on the head for ever, the Glasgow
merchants were not the men to sit down and weep.
Seeing that the "revolt" was an overpowering
affair, they sought for " fresh fields and pastures
new," and transferred their enterprise and capital
into other channels. From 1732, they had had
some little intercourse with the West India islands,
by supplying the planters with necessaries, and re-
ceiving part of their crops in return, but generally
speaking, the traffic was of a very limited character.
Tins trade was now vastly extended, while at the
same time the merchants opened up commercial re-
lations witli other parts of the world, the produce
of which they had heretofore received at second
hand. The West India traffic, in effect, took, to a
great extent, the place of the lost tobacco trade,
and in a short time those who had been regarded as
Virginian magnates became equally well known as
West Indian lords.
In 1816, James Finlay and Co. despatched a ship
of 600 tons burden to Calcutta, being the first ves-
sel which had cleared out of a Scottish port direct
for the East Indies. Other merchants followed the
example of this enterprising firm, of which the late
able Kirkman Finlay was then the head, and the
trade soon became a valuable and extensive one.
The trade to China and a new trade with France
have since been added; and the intercourse with
Canada, South America, Australia, New Zealand,
and other parts, has become vastly extended. The
trade with the United States also has latterly grown
to such magnitude as to be exceeded only by
that of Liverpool and London. Glasgow has like-
wise, since about 1842, been very prominent as an
emigration port for British America, the United
States, and Australia. A company was established,
about 1850. to extend the trade between Glasgow
and New York by means of iron screw-steamers,
designed to carry passengers and goods at a mo-
derate charge, and to perform the voyage eastward
and westward with speed and in a limited number
of days. The company started with only one ves-
sel, a noble one of 2,000 tons burden; and she
answered expectation so well that a second and
larger one was added in 1854. Another company,
to occupy the same ground, was formed soon after
the first; and they also had two fine iron screw-
steamers on the Glasgow and New York station
prior to 1855. Spendid iron screw-steamers like-
wise now ply regularly to Portland, the St. Law-
rence, and the Mediterranean; while steamers of
various size and structure, to suit their various
stations and traffic, ply to all parts of the west
coast of Scotland, both mainland and islands, and to
Liverpool, Cork, Dub'in, Belfast, Londonderry, and
Sligo.
The commerce of Glasgow with foreign countries
and the British colonies is as comprehensive and
ramified as any profitable commerce with them can
well be made; while her coasting trade, both by
steamers and by sailing vessels, is both minute and
enormous. The value of British produce and
manufactures exported from the harbour, during
the year 1861, was £5,257,060; and this included
merely the goods entered at Glasgow, to the ex-
clusion of large quantities shipped at Greenock in
vessels too large to receive their whole cargo at
Glasgow, — to the exclusion also of light articles,
such as tissues, threads, yarns, and chemicals, sent
by railway for shipment at Leith and the English
ports. The chief articles of export and of import
have connexion mainly with the local manufactures,
the iron trade, and the coal trade, which we shall
afterwards notice. The largest timber-importing
establishment in the world, also, that of Messrs.
Pollok, Gilmour and Co., which has agencies or
branches in various parts of British America, and
sends timber to every part of the United Kingdom,
has its head-quarters in Glasgow. The new export
trade to France, which sprang up only in 1860, is
computed to have amounted in value during 1861 to
at least £367,000.
The rapid rise and the present comparative con-
dition of the entire foreign commerce of the port will
be best understood from a statement of its customs'
duties in various years from 1S12 till 1861. This
will appear the more striking, for the last of these
years, by remembering how great a shock a large
department of the commerce then sustained from
the effects of the American war. Another striking
thing, in contrast to the experience of most other
parts of the United Kingdom, is that Glasgow com-
merce possesses an elasticity which has always ex-
hibited a progressive increase of customs' revenue,
in spite of the large and frequent remission of duties
which has occurred since the free-trade era of 1844.
The amount of customs' duties collected at Glasgow
in 1812 was £3,124; in 1815, £8,300; in 1820,
£11.000; in 1825, £41,154; in 1830, £59,014; in
1835, £270,667; in 1840, £468,975; in 1845,
£551,851; in 1850, £640,571; in 1853, £653,283;
in 1856, £718,800; in 1858, £801,894; in 1860,
£880,621 ; in 1861, £924,505. The amount, includ-
ing Port Glasgow and Greenock, much of the com-
merce of which is dependent on Glasgow, was, in
1854, £1,220,066; in 1860, £1,740,435; in 1861,
£1,867,181. The entire "customs of the United
Kingdom, in 1861, amounted to £23,740,000; so
that those of the Clyde ports were nearly a twelfth
of the %vhole.
Manufacturing History. — Until a period subse-
quent to the Union, the manufactures of Glasgow,
like its commerce, were very trifling; but still they
deserved the name, as the weavers of the city are
frequently mentioned as an important body. To-
wards the close of the 17th century, Glasgow plaids
had attained some celebrity in Edinburgh, which
was then the aristocratic centre of the kingdom.
The inhabitants were proud of their handiwork,
though it might be on a limited scale; for we find
that in 1715, the magistrates presented to the
Princess of Wales, afterwards the Queen of George
II., " a swatch of plaids as the manufactory peculiar
only to this place, for keeping the place in her
highness' remembrance, and which might contri-
bute to the advantage thereof, and to the advance-
ment of the credit of that manufactory " — a gift
which her royal highness graciously received, and
returned thanks to the magistrates accordingly.
There is little doubt, however, that the commerce
with America first suggested and encouraged the
introduction of manufactures into the city on a
more extended plan than the home trade which bad
previously existed; and that they were established
on a small scale about 1725, is not matter of doubt.
Their progress at the outset was slow indeed, and
it was not until the legislature had granted great
encouragement to the making of linen in Scotland,
that Glasgow began to assume some degree of im-
portance as a manufacturing town. The act of
parliament in 174S, prohibiting the importing or
wearing of French cambrics, under severe penalties;
and the act of 1751, allowing weavers in flax or
hemp to settle and exercise their trades in any part
of Scotland, free from all corporation dues, conjoined
with the bounty of ljd. per yard on all linens ex-
GLASGOW.
755
GLASGOW.
fiorted at and under 18d. per yard, contributed
argely at the outset to the success of the linen
manufacture. Success in one branch encouraged
trial in others; and accordingly wc find that, be-
tween 1725 and 1750, various additional manufac-
tures were introduced into, and obtained a firm foot-
ing in the city. Glasgow was the first place in
Great Britain in which inkle wares were manufac-
tured. In 1732, Mr. Alexander Harvey, a citizen,
brought away from Haerlem, at the risk of his life,
two inkle looms and a workman, and by this means
fairly succeeded in establishing the manufacture in
Glasgow, where he was enabled successfully to
compete with the Dutch, who had previously held
a monopoly of the manufacture. The Dutchman,
after remaining some years in Glasgow, left his
employers, on account of some real or imaginary
slight, and proceeded to Manchester, the manufac-
turers of which he soon made as wise as their com-
petitors on the north side of the Tweed.
The vast improvements which were effected in
the production of cotton yarn by the inventions of
Wyatt, Hargrave, and Sir Richard Arkwright, gave,
however, the first grand impulse to manufactures
in the West of Scotland; and in a short time, Glas-
gow capital was invested in the cotton trade to a
very great amount, both in the neighbourhood of
the city, and at a distance. Originally the spin-
ning mills were erected in the vicinity of powerful
falls of water, such as the Catrine Stills, in Ayr-
shire, and the New Lanark Mills, below the Upper
Falls of Clyde; but by the great invention of James
Watt, it was no longer necessary to go to a distance
for the motive power, for it was raised up amongst
the workmen in the midst of an inexhaustible coal
field, and alongside of a port and navigable river.*
The first steam engine used in Glasgow for spin-
ning cotton was erected in January, 1792. It was
put up at Springfield, on the south side of the Clyde,
opposite what is now used as the lower steam-boat
quay. Tin's work, which latterly belonged to Messrs.
Todd and Higginbotham, was removed at immense
expense in virtue of the Clyde Trustees Act of 1840,
to afford space for the extension of the harbour.
The power loom was introduced to Glasgow in 1793
by Mr. James Louis Robertson, of Dunblane, who
set up two of them in Argyle Street which he had
brought from the hulks on the Thames, and which
were set in motion by a large Newfoundland dog
performing the part of a gin horse. In the fol-
lowing year 40 looms were fitted up at Milton; and
in 1801, Mr. John Monteith had 200 looms at work
at Pollockshaws, near Glasgow. Steam began now
to be applied, and the extension of power loom fac-
tories, and of the cotton trade generally, became so
rapid as almost to exceed belief. The progress of
spinning and weaving, in steam factories, was, for a
time, scarcely less steady than rapid, encountering
checks and obstructions only to resist or surmount
them ; but now, at least in the department of cotton,
has not improbably reached its limit.
In 1854, the number of cotton-spinning factories
was 39, — of cotton-weaving factories, 37, — of cot-
ton-spinning and weaving factories, 16, — of wool
and worsted spinning and weaving factories, 7, — of
silk winding and throwing factories, 5, — of flax-
* The tiny model on which Watt experimented is still pre-
served as an object of rare interest, in the museum of the
University of Glasgow. It was exhibited at the Philosophical
Society's exhibition in the City Hall, during the Christmas and
New Year's holidays of 1S46-7. Of itself it is a contemptible-
looking object, with a boiler no bigger than a tea-kettle; but one
cannot look upon it without feelings of almost reverence, as be-
ing the progenitor of those magnificent engines, which arc daily
the means of enriching, and it may be truly said, civilizing
mankind.
spinning and rope-making factories, 3 ; the number
of spindles in the cotton factories was 1,014,972, —
in the wool and worsted factories, 14,392, — in tho
silk factories, 30,705, — in the flax and rope factories,
34,000 ; the number of power-looms in the cotton
factories was 22,335, — in the wool factories, 120;
the number of horses' power in the cotton factories
was G,972 — in the wool and worsted factories, 225,
— in the silk factories, 193, — in the flax and rope
factories, 296 ; and the number of persons employed
in the cotton factories was 24,414, — in the wool and
worsted factories, 800, — in the silk factories, 750, —
in the flax and rope factories, 1,300. In 1861, the
number of spindles in the cotton factories was
1,048,500— in the wool factories, 11,748,— in the
silk factories, 23,072, — in the flax and jute factories,
21,152; the number of power-looms in the cotton
factories was 22,567, — in the wool factories, 15, — in
the silk factories, 60, — in the flax and jute factories,
171 ; the number of horses' power in the cotton fac-
tories was 11,837, — in the wool factories, 398, — in
the silk factories, 213, — in the flax and jute factories,
766; and the number of persons employed in the
cotton factories was 24,861, — in the wool factories,
1 ,422, — in the silk factories, 894, — in the flax and
jute factories, 1,312. About one-eighth of the popu-
lation of Glasgow between the ages of 10 and 40 is
thus employed in these factories ; and several thou-
sands, in addition, are employed in hand-loom
weaving, between 3,000 and 4,000 in print-works,
and numbers more in bleaching, dyeing, and other
departments connected with textile manufacture.
So many as 14,784 males, and 22,391 females were
returned by the census of 1851, as then engaged in
the cotton manufacture alone. The factories are a
prominent architectural feature of the city, — or at
least of its suburbs and outskirts; and, not only by
their number, but by their great size and their
prevailing symmetry and neatness, they often
strike strangers from agricultural districts with
amazement.
The first muslin web warped in Scotland was the
work of Mr. James Monteith, grandfather of Mr.
Robert Monteith of Carstairs; and the operation was
then considered such a triumphant one that he
caused a dress of it to be embroidered with gold and
presented to Queen Charlotte. Messrs. Henry
Monteith, Bogle and Co., established a manufactory
for bandana handkerchiefs in 1S02; and the superior
manufacture of the article itself, and the successful
application of the Turkey-red dye, have given to the
Glasgow bandanas a fame and a preference in almost
every commercial martin the world. This manufac-
ture is now worthily shared in by other companies
in Glasgow; and is carried on upon a scale of
great magnitude. Independently of the manufac-
turing operations conducted in the city and imme-
diate neighbourhood, the manufactories of various
other parts in Scotland are kept in motion by Glas-
gow capital; and even in the north of Ireland vast
numbers of the muslin weavers are in tho direct and
constant employment of Glasgow houses. A richly
ornamental block of building, in the Italian style,
situated on the west side of South Hanover street,
was erected in 1856, for muslin warehouses; and
some other fine structures are connected with the
manufacture.
The soft goods trade is carried on to an immense
extent in Glasgow; where the merchant often joins
the retail to the wholesale trade, imports goods
largely from England and foreign parts, and in turn
sends them out wholesale to smuiler traders situated
in almost every village and town in Scotland and
not a few in Ireland; and notwithstanding the
magnitude of such establishments in the city, ths
GLASGOW.
756
GLASGOW.
poorest customer is supplied in them as readily and
courteously with a yard of tape as the richest with
an order of £100 in amount. One of the two gen-
tlemen, brothers, who originated this mixed whole-
Bale and retail soft goods trade, filled the office of
chief magistrate of the city, and was knighted. The
firm necessarily occupied premises of great extent;
and eventually in 1858, they erected, in Ingram
street, a vast picturesque block of building in the
old Scottish style. Another firm, in beginning the
same line of business, about 1850, originally occu-
pied premises at a yearly rental of £1,300, and ul-
timately purchased them.
In 1786, the late Mr. Charles Macintosh, who was
distinguished for discoveries in applied chemistry,
introduced to Glasgow from Holland the manufac-
ture of sugar of lead. This article had previously
been imported from that country; but in a very
short period the tables were turned by Mr. Macintosh
exporting considerable quantities of the article to
Rotterdam. About the same time, the firm to
which Mr. Macintosh belonged established the
manufacture of cudbear, an article of great import-
ance in the process of dyeing. In 1799, this gentle-
man made the first preparation of chloride of lime in
the dry state, which has since been so extensively
used and prized as a bleaching powder. Mr. M.
also established the well-known manufacture of
waterproof cloths, though it was latterly transferred
to Manchester. In 1800, Messrs. Tennant, Knox,
and Co., established a chemical work at St. Rollox,
in the northern suburbs of Glasgow, for the manu-
facture of sulphuric acid, chloride of lime, soda,
soap, &c. This is the most extensive chemical
work in the world, covering upwards of ten acres,
containing upwards of 100 furnaces, and the firm hav-
ing connections and agencies in every considerable
mart both at home and abroad. In 1843, the com-
pany erected a " monster chimney," for the purpose
of carrying off any noxious gases which might
arise in tiie process of their manufacture; and this
is 40 feet in diameter at the base, and 436 feet high,
and cost about £12,000.
The manufacture of bottles was commenced in
Glasgow in 1730, the first bottle-house being erected
on the site of the present Jamaica Street; and it
is still carried on upon a most extensive scale, in
the districts of Anderston and Port Dundas. The
manufacture of flint glass was begun in 1777 by
Messrs. Cookson and Co. of Newcastle, and under
new firms, is carried on witli great vigour. The
number of workmen employed in these manufac-
tures is upwards of 500, and the quantity of coals
consumed 28,600 tons annually. The earthenware
manufacture was commenced at Delftfield near the
Broomielaw in 1748; but, for a long period, the
quality was decidedly inferior to the English make,
and the consumpt was consequently principally
local. Since about 1829, but especially since about
1842, the manufacture lias been greatly increased
and improved; new establishments have been erect-
ed; and the article has attained a beauty of design
and a delicacy of finish which has enabled it to
compete successfully with the famed Staffordshire
ware in the various markets both at home and
abroad. The manufactures include every kind of
product, from the coarsest earthenware to the finest
porcelain. The number of workmen employed is
about 2,100; the quantity of coals annually con-
sumed is about 40,000 tons; the import of chalk,
flint, Cornish stone, and clay, in the year 1854, was
nearly 12,000 tons; and the export of wares, includ-
ing glass, in the same year, was 4,133 tons coast-
wise, and 3,181 tons to foreign parts. A copart-
nery for the manufacture of rones was entered into
in 1696. The tanning of leather commenced soon
after the Union. The boot and shoe trade has of
late largely extended beyond the home supply.
The brewing business is an ancient and an increas-
ing one; and while Messrs. J. andR. TennentandCo.,
Wellpark, for instance, are amongst the largest ex-
porters of porter and bitter ale in the kingdom, their
produce bears the highest character in the foreign
markets. The first distillery was begun in 1786, by
Mr. William Menzies, in Kirk Street, Gorbals, his
licence being the fourth granted in Scotland. At
that period the duty little exceeded one penny per
gallon, and the best malt spirits were sold at 3s. per
gallon. The trade is now an extensive one. In
fine, Glasgow may be considered the workshop of
Scotland; and with the exception of cutlery and
gun barrels, and a few other manufactures, it would
Be difficult to point out any article useful to man
which is not fabricated in the city of St. Mungo.
The Iron Trade. — All the iron trade of Scotland,
with small exception, belongs directly or indirectly
to Glasgow, concentrating here its business, com-
mercially and financially ; and drawing hence almost
all the articles of consumpt connected with its works
and workers. The trade, till so late as about 1839,
was of comparatively small amount; but it received
then a great impetus from the invention of the hot-air
blast, by Mr. James Beaumont Neilson, manager of
the Glasgow gas-works ; it experienced, at the same
time and afterwards, strong stimulus from the rail-
way demand; and it thenceforth was rapidly de-
veloped. The number of pig iron furnaces at work
in Scotland in 1788, was only 8 ; and the amount of
their produce, under the methods then practised,
was little more than one-sixth of what it would
have been under the methods practised now. The
numbers, together with their yearly produce, in
various years since the beginning of the present
century, are as follows: — in 1806, 18 furnaces, pro-
ducing 22,840 tons; in 1823, 22 furnaces, 30,500
tons; in 1833, 31 furnaces, 44,000 tons ; in 1843, 62
furnaces, 248,000 tons; in 1851, 114 furnaces, 740,000
tons; in 1861, 122 furnaces, 1,040,000 tons. Six of
the furnaces adjoin the suburbs, in the vicinity of the
southern terminus of the Caledonian railway; and
they form a curious feature of the city, and some-
times throw a weird-like aspect over it at night, in
certain states of the atmosphere ; hut most are in
the Monklands and Ayrshire, and a few in other
places.
The manufacture of malleable iron in Scotland
can scarcely be said to have commenced till 1839;
and the yearly produce of it rose from 45,000 tons
in 1845 to 90,000 tons in 1848; but did not rise
higher till 1852. The shipments of iron coastwise
amounted to 257,851 tons in 1846, fluctuated be-
tween 190,083 and 305,650 tons in the next eight
years, and was highest in 1853; and the shipments
to foreign ports amounted to 119,100 tons in 1846,
fluctuated between 134,576 and 314,270 tons in the
next eight years, and was highest also in 1853.
The quantity of iron ore raised in Scotland, in 1856,
was 2,201,250 tons; in 1859, 2,225,000 tons. Dr.
Strang, writing in 1862, says, — "In 1854, we found
that the men employed in mining iron amounted in
Lanarkshire to 3,645, and in Ayrshire to 1,943,
making in all 5,588; while the number employed
in managing and working the furnaces amounted to
1,344. With respect to the manufacture of malleable
iron, we found that in 1854 it amounted to 122,400
tons, and the number of men then employed in this
branch was about 4,000. According to the calcu-
lations then made, the value of the whole of these
industries to the West of Scotland in 1854
amounted to £4,872,856, of which no less than
GLASGOW.
757
GLASGOW.
€1.975,917 was paid in wages to workmen employed.
What the approximate value of these now much in-
creased industries may he at the present moment
to Glasgow and its neighbourhood, we are unable to
Bay. Since the year 1854 we are perfectly aware
that the price of the manufactured article has been
very materially reduced, and also that the wages
paid has been considerably lowered ; still, when we
look at the greatly increased quantities made, we
are confident that the monies now involved in the
manufacture cannot be much less, though the pro-
fit to the makers may not be so great. That the
civil war in America has been very hurtful to this
trade must appear evident from the fact that, while
during the year 1860 we shipped to the United
States of Scotch pig iron nearly 78,000 tons, we last
year sent scarcely 35,000 tons. On the other hand,
France took from us last year about 64,000 tons,
instead of 50,000 in 1860; while Spain and Italy
also increased the quantity taken from about 25,000
to 39,000 tons."
The Coal Trade. — The abundance of coal in the
rock-strata around Glasgow, and in the neighbour-
ing counties, is a main source of the city's pros-
perity, affording fuel to the iron-works, the facto-
ries, and the steam-vessels, and at the same time
farming in itself an important article of export.
The Rev. Dr. Anderson of Newburgh, writing in
1854, says, — "The quantity of coals brought to
Glasgow in 1836, from 37 pits in the vicinity,
amounted to 561,049 tons, of which 124,000 were
exported to the Highlands, and adjacent places on
the Clyde; thus leaving for the use of families and
public works in the city and suburbs, 437,047 tons
of coal. The population since that time has nearly
doubled, and the public works, perhaps, have in-
creased in a still higher ratio. Hence the present
consumption will amount to 874,098 tons. But as
exhibited by the books of the River Trust there
were exported for the year ending the 30th June,
1852, from Glasgow, 200,560 tons of coal, which
added to the quantity consumed in the city and
suburbs, shows that the coal fields surrounding the
western metropolis of Scotland yield an annual pro-
duct of 1,074,558 tons of coal over and above all
that is consumed at the pits, the blastfurnaces, and
the numerous towns and populous villages embraced
within their area, or situated on their confines."
And Dr. Strang, writing in 1862, says,— " In 1855,
when we made an anxious inquiry into this matter,
we found that, of the 367 collieries in Scotland, 237
belonged to the west country, 141 being in Lanark-
shire, 78 in Ayrshire, 11 in Dumbartonshire, and 7
in Renfrewshire. It also then appeared, that dur-
ing the year 1854, of the 7,448,000 tons of coal
raised in Scotland, 6,448,000 were drawn from pits
situated in the four western counties above alluded
to; and taking into account all kinds of coal raised,
such as splint, soft, and gas, the average price being
then 7s. 6d. per ton, the value derived from the coal
mines of the West of Scotland in 1854 could not be
less than £2,418,000 sterling. Of the 6,448,000
tons of coal so produced, no less than 2,152,800
were consumed in the manufacture of pig iron, and
367.200 in the conversion of pig into malleable iron ;
while during that period the number of persons em-
ployed in the collieries was as follows : — in Lanark-
shire, 15,580, in Ayrshire, 6,061, in Renfrewshire,
790, and in Dumbartonshire, 549; or in all, 22,980.
That the number of new collieries opened up, and
that the number of workers connected therewith,
particularly in Ayrshire and Renfrewshire, have
greatly increased even since that late period is cer-
tain, and, consequently, the amount of coal brought
to the surface must have been also greatly increas-
ed, while a large additional quantity must havo
been used in the smelting of iron ore and in the
conversion of pig into malleable iron, seeing that
the smelting furnaces have produced a greater quan-
tity and the malleable iron-works have increased."
The number of collieries, in 1860, in what the par-
liamentary returns call the western district, which
includes Dumfries-shire, Ayrshire, Dumbarton-
shire, Renfrewshire, West Stirlingshire, the lower
ward of Lanarkshire, and the parish of Old Monk-
land, but excludes the rest of Lanarkshire, was 194,
and the quantity of coals raised from them was
6,049,424 tons; while the number of collieries in
all Scotland was 413, and the quantity of coals
raised from them was 11,149,424 tons. The quan-
tity of coals, cinders, and culm exported from Glas-
gow in 1858, was 76,744 tons coastwise and 56,696
tons abroad; and the quantity exported in 1860 was
104,931 tons coastwise and 55,058 tons abroad.
Iron Ship-Building and Marine Engine- Making.
— Glasgow, with the towns below it on the Clyde,
was the cradle of steam' navigation, and has, for
years, been a great theatre for building iron ships,
making steam-vessel engines, and doing a vast
amount of kindred work. Henry Bell, who died at
Helensburgh in 1830, and to whose memory an
obelisk stands at Dunglass on the Clyde, was the first
person who successfully applied steam to the propul
sion of vessels against wind and tide. In 1811, the
Comet was built, according to Mr. Bell's directions,
by Messrs. John Wood and Co., Port- Glasgow; and
on the 18th January, 1812, she performed her first
trip from Glasgow to Greenock, making 5 miles an
hour against a head-wind. She was a boat of only
30 tons burden, and had an engine of only 3 horse-
power ; yet she demonstrated a grand new princi-
ple, which was speedily carried into extensive ap-
plication. She was lost in a wild strait of the West
Highlands; and her engine, after having lain long
in the sea, was recovered from its watery bed,
brought to Glasgow as an interesting curiosity, and
publicly exhibited at the meeting of the British
Association in 1840. Mr. Bell's invention was not
patented, and it was promptly seized by able, enter-
prizing, monied men, to be copied and improved.
The new navigation was, at first, supposed to be
suitable only for smooth inland waters; and it did
not extend for two or three years beyond the wa-
ters of the frith of Clyde. But a steam-vessel, of
better build, the Rob Roy, was put on trial, by Mr.
David Napier, to carry goods and passengers, in the
coasting trade, in the open channel ; and the trial
proved so successful that its results are now ap-
parent in every sea which has been navigated by
civilized men.
The building of sailing vessels on the Clyde went
on increasing with the increase of commerce ; and
now the building of steam-vessels was in demand.
This, during the eighteen years following the
Comet's first voyage, did not exceed an aggregate of
5,000 tons ; but afterwards it rapidly and enormous-
ly augmented. All the vessels, for a time, were
small and of timber ; but many large ones began to
be required ; and both small and large came eventu-
ally to be constructed of iron. About 1838, Messrs.
Tod and Macgregor made the trial of building two
iron steamers, the Royal Sovereign and the Roval
George, for the trade between Glasgow and Liver-
pool. These ships were confidently anticipated by
numerous eminent sea-faring men to prove a failure;
yet they were found to combine all the advantages
of timber ships with others peculiar to themselves,
particularly cheapness, durability, rapidity of con-
struction, and light draft of water. The construct-
ing of steam-engines proceeded and improved con-
GLASGOW.
758
GLASGOW.
temporaneously with the construe ting of the steamers
themselves, and soon readied a pitch, particularly
in the establishments of Mr. ftobert Napier and
Messrs. Tod and Macgregor, which gave Glasgow
a pre-eminence for them over all other parts of the
world. Mr. Napier, prior to the summer of 1855,
supplied the engines for the Canard steam ships, for
some of the finest ships of the West India Company,
and for various heavy frigates, belonging to the
British government, executed from time to time
large orders for foreign governments, and built the
Simoom steam screw frigate and the hitherto 1111-
precedentedly large mercantile steamer, the Persia.
Twenty-nine establishments, besides his, were at
work, and all were so busy that almost every one of
them was obliged to refuse orders of great magni-
tude. A vidimus of the trade, in the years 1840-52,
was presented by Dr. Strang to the meeting of the
British Association at Belfast; and this, though al-
ready somewhat antiquated, is so instructive that
we must give it entire : —
" Number of Steam Vessels and Power of Marine Engines built or
made at all the Ports on the Clyde, from 1S40 to 1852.
I. T
= - i= tU'
c
$4
» 8
1.
o
1
*6
H
1.
± © c
•— sj o
"u, > «
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.? &
A
J:
a
K
c o
1816
17 ...
17
14
3
7,125
2,490
300
1S47
26 3
23
21
5
5.4S5
11,514
3,770
. 410
lsts
34 2
32
23
11
2,117
10,292
2,810
2,721
934
1849
23 1
22
17
6
2S5
11,513
2,906
380
1850
32 3
29
14
IS
4,813
13,791
1,725
3,482
620
1851
42 1
41
22
20
2,402
25,322
6,169
940
1852
78 4
m
30
43
3,229
49,710
2,204
10,055
5.S50
247 14 233 141 106 18,U31 129,273 6,739 31,593 9,434
" On examining the foregoing table, it will be
found that, during the last seven years, the steam
vessels built and the marine engines made, includ-
ing those at present constructing, have been as
follows : — Number of steam vessels built — wood
hulls, 14 ; iron hulls, 233 ; in all, 247 : of these 141
were paddles and 106 screws. The tonnage of the
wooden steamers amounts to 18,331, of the iron to
129,273. The engines' horse power in wood hulls
was 6,739, the engines' horse power in iron hulls
was 31,593; while there was of engines' horse
power, constructed for vessels not built on the
Clyde, 9,434; making a grand total of 247 steamers,
amounting to 147,604 tons, and of engines 47,766
horses' power. From these tables also may be
gathered the fact, that wooden hulls for steamers
are giving place to those of iron, and that the screw
is more patronised than the paddle. Of the whole
vessels constructed during 1852, or in progress of
construction, at the various building-yards on the
Clyde, amounting to 73, only four were of wood, while
the proportion of screws to paddles is as 43 to 30.
Before leaving the present extent of the branch of
industry under consideration, it may perhaps be as
well to state that, in addition to the steamboats and
marine engines constructed in the Clyde, there has
been and is at present a large business carried
on in steam dredgers and iron punts, not only for
maintaining and extending the Clyde navigation it-
self, but also for improving other rivers and har-
bours.
■• Having now given some idea of the extent of
steamboat building, &c, on the Clyde, let me next
attempt to arrive at some probable idea of its value
and importance as a blanch of the business and in-
dustry of the district in which it is located. This,
however, is a more difficult task than it would ap-
pear at first sight to be, arising from the great
variety of circumstances which affect the price of
different sizes and kinds of steamers, and particular-
ly from the great difference occurring in what may
be designated their general and cabin furnishings.
As a proof of this I may mention that, of the 14
ocean steamers for the British and American Royal
Mail Service, which were all built and fitted out in
the Clyde, and which commenced at a cost for each
ship of about £50,000, the last, from increased size
and power, reaches upwards of £1 10,000, an increase
of price far greater than the increase of power and
tonnage. From all I can gather from those best
conversant with the subject, I am inclined to as-
sume as an approximation to the truth the follow-
ing prices : — Wooden hulls of all sizes, irrespective
of the cost of engines, boilers, and machinery, and
exclusive of all furnishings, £14 per ton ; iron hulls
as above. £12 do. The general and cabin furnish-
ings, as I have already stated, are so various accord-
ing to the employment intended for, and style of
finish, that no price per ton can be named as a gen-
eral rule. It may be said to range from £6 to even
as high as £15, but I shall assume the average of
all kinds to be £8. The cost of engines also varies
greatly according to size, description of engine, and
style of finish. Contracts will be taken at from £25
to £50 per horse power. I shall assume £35 as a
fair average. Proceeding then upon this hypothesis,
the value for the whole seven years will be as fol-
lows:—
Wooden hulls, tonringe.
Iron, do., do.,
General furnishings, Ac.,
Marine Engines, .
18.331 @ £14, ...£256,634
129,273,, 12, ...1.551,276
197,604,, 8, ...1,180,832
47,760 „ 35, ... 1,661,810
Showing an annual average of £CG4,3G4.
£4,650,552
" If, however, we take only the two last years'
completed work, and include in it what is now con-
structing, the annual average for these two years
will be £1,253,636. While this certainly looks a
large sum, it by no means fully exhibits the value
of this branch of industry ; for the above sum only
represents new vessels and new machinery, and has
no reference whatever either to the enlargement of
vessels or to the ordinary and extraordinary repairs
made on the old. To show that the amount of
steamboat repairs in the Clyde must be very con-
siderable, I may state that, in the course of five
years, one steam-ship which originally cost £29,000,
paid £12,500 for repairs, or upwards of 10 per cent,
yearly of its value; and that another steam-ship
during seven years, originally costing £37,000, paid
£12,700 for repairs. Of these repairs the carpenter
got £9,526; the engineer, £12,405; and sundry
other parties, £3,269.
" If, from the want of data, we only approximate
the value of this industry, we can at ieast state the
number of persons employed in the various build-
ing-yards and engine-shops connected with the con-
struction and repair of steam-vessels on the Clyde.
At present the number employed is as follows: —
Glasgow, &c, 6,210; Greenock and Port-Glasgow,
3,250; Dumbarton, 1,360; in all, 10,820. Here,
then, we have the fact that this branch of industry
gives work and support to no less than 10,820 in-
dividuals: and when we consider the high wages
given to many of the engineers, and the respectable
rate of remuneration paid to even the lowest person
engaged in this business, it is perhaps not too much
to assume, that the average of the wages paid to all
classes of men and boys will amount to at least 16s.
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per week, and consequently the trade circulates
£8,656 weekly, or £450,112 annually, of wages."
The trade, immediately after these statistics were
drawn up, underwent great increase. A review of
it in 1855, for a piecurrent period of 18 or 24 months,
showed that the number of vessels built, being
built, or ordered, was 266, with a tonnage of 167,770;
that 88 were sailing-vessels, with a tonnage of
31,266, — 126 were screw steamers, with a tonnage
of 108,804, and a horse-power of 16,491,— and 62
were paddle-steamers, with a tonnage of 27,700, and
a horse-power of 10,344; that many of the ships
ranged from 2,000 to 3,000 tons, and one of the
steamers was of 3,600 tons, and 1,000 horse-power;
and that almost all were of iron. There were built
or completed in 1861, 5 iron sailing-ships, of aggre-
gately 3,0G0 tons, at a cost of £50,560, and 81 iron
steamers, of aggregately 60,135 tons, and 12,493
horse-power, at a cost of £1,709,100. There were
also on the stocks, in the early part of 1862, 12 iron
sailing-ships, of aggregately 3,660 tons, to cost
£60,600, and 27 iron steamers, of aggregately 28,362
tons, and 6,140 horse-power, to cost £914,000. Two
of the steamers, completed in 1861, were the large
famous ones, the Black Prince and the Scotia ; and,
among those on the stocks, in 1862, were another
great steamer to he called the Hector, and three
large paddle- steamers for France. The ship-build-
ing yards, with their rising hulls, their swarms of
workmen, and their thundering noise, strongly arrest
the attention of strangers passing down the river;
an immense crane for hoisting engines at Lancefield
dock also looks wonderful ; and the interiors of the
chief yards and engine foundries present objects of
high interest, but require for admission an order
from the proprietors. A handsome, large, lofty,
glazed shed, for sheltering the men at work in wet
weather, was erected in one of the building yards,
at the Kelvin, in 1852, at a cost of £12,000; but,
about four years afterwards, was overthrown by a
storm.
The Harbour. — The Clyde may be truly con-
sidered the right arm of the prosperity of Glasgow ;
but it has only been made such by unparalleled ef-
forts of industry, ingenuity, and perseverance; and
the results of these have been so successful that it
may almost be said a river has been created where
one did not exist before. In the early part of the
16th century the channel was so much obstructed
by fords, shallows, and sinuosities, that the smallest
sail boat could not always reckon upon an unin-
terrupted navigation ; but about 1566, detachments
of the inhabitants of Glasgow, Renfrew, and Dum-
barton, made a bold effort to deepen the course of
the stream ; and they laboured for several weeks at
this praiseworthy undertaking, residing in the mean-
while in huts which had been built for their tem-
porary accommodation atDumbuck; for it was to
the opening of the sand bank at this spot that their
efforts were mainly directed. After this period
small flat-bottomed boats made their way up to
Glasgow, acting principally in the capacity of
lighters to the larger vessels which lay at the
mouth of the river. Glasgow presented only a bare
landing shore; and fully one hundred years elapsed
before the Broomielaw was elevated into a harbour,
by the formation of a small and rude quay or wharf.
About 1653, the citizens had their principal ship-
ping port at the bailiary of Cunningham in Ayr-
shire; but as the place was distant and incon-
venient, they made an overture to the magistrates
of Dumbarton with the view of obtaining ground
and permission to build a harbour there. This,
however, was rejected on the plea that the influx of
seamen would raise the price of provisions to the
inhabitants. At length, in 1662, the town council
of Glasgow succeeded in purchasing 13 acres of
land from Sir Robert Maxwell of Newark, about 18
miles below the city, and 3 above Greenock, on
which they eventually laid out the harbour of Port-
Glasgow, built quays and harbours, and constructed
the first dry or graving dock in Scotland. Shortly
after 1688, they built a quay at the Broomielaw, at
an expense of £1,666 13s. 4d. The channel be-
tween Port-Glasgow and the Broomielaw, however,
was still only navigable for the merest shallops;
and it was not till 1755 that the magistrates set
about improving the river in earnest, by inviting
Mr. Smeaton, the celebrated engineer, to survey
and make a report upon it. On 13th September of
that year, he reportod that the river at the Point-
house ford, about 2 miles below Glasgow, was only
1 foot 3 inches deep at low water, and 3 feet 8
inches at high water; and he recommended that a
weir and lock should be constructed, 4 miles below
the city, in order to secure a depth of 4J feet in the
harbour. This suggestion was approved of; and
in consequence the first act of parliament for im-
proving the river was obtained in 1758.
Fortunately it was not acted upon, and the ma-
gistrates seem to have remained passive till about
1768, when they called in the aid of Mr. John Gol-
borne of Chester, who reported that the river was
still almost in a state of nature, there being upon
some shallows not more than 2 feet of water. His
survey was fully corroborated by one subsequently
made by James Watt, afterwards the great im-
prover of the steam engine. The principle upon
which Golbome proposed to act was to narrow the
channel for several miles below Glasgow by means
of jetties, and by thus confining the water to enable
it to act with greater effect upon the bottom, and
thus to scour out for itself a deeper channel. In
January 1775, Golborne bad erected 117 jetties upon
the sides of the river, and improved it so effectually
that vessels drawing more than 6 feet water came
up to the Broomielaw. The town council, however,
for a long period, seem to have limited their am-
bition to the bringing up of coasters, light scooners,
and small foreign brigs.
The grand start, in the improving of the harbour
and the navigation, was consequent upon the launch
of the Comet in 1811; and the progress thence, in
building quays, enlarging berthage, deepening the
channel, and widening, straightening, and embank-
ing the river, went on with accumulating vigour
till it achieved enormous results. Much high-priced
ground was excavated, and several costly tenements
were removed, for the extension of the harbour; fine
substantial masonry was formed for the quays, and
solid sloping stone-work for the embankments; and
5 powerful steam dredging-machines, one of them
double and of 40 horse-power, were employed, along
with diving-bells and other appliances, for dredging
the channel. The area of the harbour, which had
been only 4 acres, was increased to 7 in 1814, 11 in
1S27, 21 in 1838, 42 ill 1849, 52 in 1854, 57 in 1858,
and 70 in 1861; the length of the quays, which
had been only 382 yards, was increased to 697 in
1814, 1,114 in 1827, 1,84? in 1838, 3,019 in 1849,
3,496 in 1854, 3,860 in 1858, and 4,376 in 1861 ; and
the depth of water, which had increased after Gol-
borne's improvement to little more than 5 feet, was
increased to 9 feet at neap tides in 1820, and to 19
at neaps, and 21 at top-springs in 1861.
These improvements have been effected, by what
is called the Clyde Trust, under authority of a series
of acts of parliament. The trust consisted originally
of the town council; but, after 1824, included also
five merchants chosen by the council ; was rendered
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still more open by bills of 1840 and 1846; and now
comprises the lord provost, nine town councillors,
two representatives of the chamber of commerce,
two of the Merchants' house, two of the Trades'
house, and nine of ship-owners and rate-payers.
The total sum expended, in improvements and
management till 30th June 1861, was upwards of
£2,430,000 ; and the amount of debt due at that date
was £1,203,525. The revenue, however, has always
been such as perfectly to justify the enormous ex-
penditure, and regularly yields a large surplus
which, though applied in the meantime to the
carrying on of the improvements, will, after their
completion, be all applied to the liquidation of the
debt. The amount of the revenue, in 1781, was
£1,721 5s. 8d.; in 1791, £3,175 14s. Id.; in 1801,
£3,400 10s. 9d, j in 1811, £4,755 3s. 8d. ; in 1821,
£8,070 2s. 2d.; in 1831, £18,932 0s. 7d. ; in 1841,
£49,665 15s. 7d.; in 1851, £68,875 4s. 9d. ; in 1861.
£105,768 lis. The ordinary expenditure in the last
of these years was £86,256 9s. 10d., — leaving a
surplus of £19,512 Is. 2d.; but there was also an
expenditure on improvements and new works of
£47,683 16s. 3d.
There is another harbour, for the Forth and Clyde
and the Monkland canals, in the suburb of Port-
Dundas, on a tabular ridge of hill, exhibiting the
curious feature of lines of shipping and lofty ware-
houses on the face of a steep, some 60 or 80 feet
above the adjacent levels ; but this will be sufficiently
understood by reference to our article Forth and
Ci.vde Caxal.
Shipping. — The shipping registered at Glasgow,
in 1810, comprised a tonnage of 1 ,956 in 24 vessels ;
in 1820, a tonnage of 6,131 in 77 vessels; in 1830,
a tonnage of 39,432 in 217 vessels; in 1840, a ton-
nage of 185,707 in 403 vessels; in 1851, a tonnage
of 145,684 in 508 vessels; in 1861, a tonnage of
218,804 in 679 vessels. The tonnage of 1861 con-
sisted of 173,146 in 508 sailing vessels, and 45,658
in 171 steam-vessels. The arrivals at the harbour,
in 1831, comprised 4,005 sailing-vessels of aggre-
gately 186,576 tons, and 7,537 steam-vessels of
aggregately 545,751 tons; in 1841, 5,785 sailing-
vessels of 314,262 tons, and 9,421 steam-vessels of
828,111 tons; in 1851, 6,212 sailing-vessels of
424,785 tons, and 11,062 steam-vessels of 1,021,821
tons; in 1861, 4,804 sailing-vessels of 474,740 tons,
and 11,281 steam-vessels of 1,029,480 tons. The
largest arrivals, in 1831, were three of from 250 to
300 tons; in 1841, were three, of from 600 to 700
tons; in 1851, were four of 1,000 tons and up-
wards; while in 1861, there were eighty of from
700 to 1,000 tons, and twenty-nine of 1,000 tons
and upwards. The steam-vessel arrivals, in 1861,
comprised 9,764 vessels of 591,308 tons in trade
with Scottish ports, 301 vessels of 110,004 tons
in trade with English ports, .974 vessels of
258,019 tons in trade with Irish ports, 73 vessels
of 25,144 tons in trade with foreign ports, and
169 vessels of 45,005 tons either newly launched
or not engaged in a regular trade. The sailing-
vessel arrivals, in that year, comprised 2,794 vessels
of 178,431 tons loaded coastwise, 1,479 vessels of
117,840 tons in ballast coastwise, 521 vessels of
175,444 tons loaded from foreign parts, and 10 ves-
sels of 3,025 tons in ballast from foreign parts; and
the departures comprised 3,793 vessels of 190,004
tons loaded coastwise, 269 vessels of 27,229 tons in
ballast coastwise, 716 vessels of 252,680 tons loaded
for foreign parts, and 12 vessels of 4,833 tons in
ballast for foreign parts. The arrivals at Port-
Dundas, in 1861, comprised 532 vessels of 29,299
tons coastwise, and 30 vessels of 1,442 tons from
foreign parts ; and the departures comprised 554
vessels of 42,371 tons coastwise, and 27 vessels of
1 ,758 tons for foreign parts.
The Quays. — Two wide, well-paved thoroughfares
line the margins of the river, and have on one side
the quays, on the other side, ranges of houses, so
that they are practically spacious terraces ; and they
present a scene of mixed bustle and picturesqueness,
more varied and striking than anywhere else exists
in the kingdom. Wharfage for small craft, to the
extent of about 166 yards, is above the first bridge;
and the rest of the wharfage, to the extent of nearly
4,100 yards, is immediately below the bridge, along
both sides of the river. The berthage for the small,
the middle-sized, and the large steamers, is on suc-
cessively the upper, the central, and the lower parts
of the north side ; the Napier dock and the Lance-
field quay, for fitting out new steamers, are far down
on the same side ; the berthage of the sailing-ves-
sels, ranging from small to large, and often lying
four or five abreast, is along the south side ; and an
extensive dock, a railway terminus, connecting the
harbour with all the neighbouring railways, and
steam-worked loading cranes, are in the lower part
of that side. The quays have excellent sheds over
most of their length, and are under the constant
surveillance of a vigilant police. The house- ranges,
downward from the bridge, display little architec-
tural attraction, yet are well relieved at one point
by the fine campanile tower of the Sailors' Home.
The custom-house, on the north line above the
bridge, is modern and ornamental, but has neither
size nor elegance proportionate to the greatness of
the port.
General Traffic. — The quantity of raw sugar
which passed the custom-houses on the Clyde, in
1857, was 38,336 tons,— in 1861, was 88,694 tons.
Much of it is sent into the country; and about one-
tenth of it, latterly, has been beet-root sugar. Re-
fined sugar is prepared in 18 establishments ; has,
of late years, come rapidly into increasing demand;
and is sent largely to Ireland and the north of Eng-
land. The quantity of tea entered, in 1857, wtis
3,886,350 lbs; in 1861, was 4,077,774 lbs. The
number of cheeses which passed the public weigh-
house, in 1854, was 71,731, weighing 1,101 tons; in
1861, was 46,709, weighing 827J tons. The quan-
tity of onions brought into the bazaar, in 1861, was
16,274 bags and hampers, weighing 813J tons, and
averagely worth £7 10s. per ton. The quantity of
oranges imported into Glasgow in 1859, was 1,451
chests, 19,936 half-chests, and 1,878 Sicilian boxes;
in 1861, was 911 chests, 25,833 half-chests, and
17,709 Sicilian boxes; besides about 4,000 or 5,000
boxes brought from Liverpool and London. The
quantity of fruit, chiefly apples, which passed
through the bazaar, in 1861, was about l,122f tons,
— a quantity considerably less than in the previous
year; and a large quantity of apples also is sold
direct at the harbour, out of sloops from St. Malo
and Jersey. The live stock exposed to sale in the
cattle-market, in 1854, besides horses and cows,
was 36,009 oxen, 114,780 sheep, 59,739 lambs, and
9,500 pigs; in 1861, was 5,501 horses, 4,905 cows,
47,890 oxen, 151,552 sheep, 71,357 lambs, 17,787
pigs, and 25 goats. The animals slaughtered in the
abattoirs, in 1861, were 31,243 oxen, 2,774 calves,
103,044 sheep, 42,637 lambs, 7,877 pigs, and 30
goats.
The bazaar, to which we have alluded, is a spa-
cious, ediliced, glass-roofed, well-arranged area, in
Candlerigg-street, for the sale chiefly of vegetables
and dairy produce. The cattle-market is a ju-
diciously-arranged area of 30,000 square yards, in
the eastern part of Duke-street. The principal
abattoir is adjacent to the Clyde, behind the court-
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GLASGOW.
houses; and two others are in Milton street ami
Moore-street. The flesh and fish markets were in
King-street, and must have been long regarded as
both handsome and spacious ; but were gradually
forsaken by the migration of the wealthier classes
*o the west, and underwent conversion to other pur-
poses ; and they have not been succeeded by any
I new markets, the butchers and the fishmongers
having followed their customers in all directions, by
taking shops wherever the demand is briskest and
j the payment surest.
The Publishing Trade. — Letter-press printing was
introduced into Glasgow in 1638 by George Ander-
son from Edinburgh ; and one of the first works
printed by him was an account of the celehrated
Assembly of the Church of Scotland which met in
that year. The printing trade, however, appears
for long to have been conducted on a very insig-
nifioant scale; and in 1713 we find the College
authorities making proposals for the establishment
of a printing press within the university; and one
of their reasons is that they were "obliged to go to
Edinburgh, in order to get one sheet right printed."
The typographic art at length attained high cele-
brity in Glasgow by the exertions of Messrs. Kobert
and Andrew Foulis, the former of whom commenced
business in 1741 ; and during a series of years, many
editions of the classics issued from their press
printed in a style of accuracy and beauty which had
never before been equalled in Great Britain. Glas-
gow has never attained any distinction in the pub-
lishing of original works: yet it has issued many
large and excellent ones, in the number trade; it
also boasts the production of an edition of the Bible,
in 19 volumes, for the use of the blind; and it car-
ries on printing to a great extent, and in a style of
high beauty. Periodicals of various kinds have,
from time to time, been started in it. but generally
have not had much success. The first newspaper
published in it appeared in 1715; four others fol-
lowed before the close of the century; and two of
these, the Courier and the Herald, still survive.
Those published in 1861, were, daily, the Glasgow
Herald, the Glasgow Morning Journal, and the
North British Daily Mail; weekly, the Glasgow
Courier, the Glasgow Advertiser, the General Ad-
vertiser for Scotland, the Glasgow Mercantile Adver-
tiser, the Glasgow Citizen, the Glasgow Examiner,
the Glasgow Free Press, the Glasgow Gazette, the
Glasgow Sentinel, the Glasgow Times, the Penny
Post, the Property Circular, the Saturday Post, the
Scottish Banner, the Scottish Sentinel, the Christian
News, the Protestant L^man, and the Weekly
Journal of the Scottish Temperance League; fort-
nightly, Forsyth's Advertiser; and monthly, the
British Friend.
Communications. — The railways from Glasgow are
the Caledonian, the Glasgow and Paisley, the Glas-
gow and South-western, the Edinburgh and Glas-
gow, and the Dumbartonshire and Helensburgh.
The Caledonian has two termini, northern and
southern, and the Glasgow and Paisley is a joint
line common to the Glasgow and South-western
and the Glasgow and Greenock branch of the Cale-
donian. The northern terminus of the Caledonian
is situated on Port-Dundas road, opposite Cowead-
dens; and was designed to be a splendid structure,
but as yet is little more than a vast temporary shed.
The southern terminus stands at the middle of the
southern outskirts of the city; is a very plain pile,
with good accommodations ; and sends off lines to
Neilston, Hamilton, and Motherwell, the last going
into junction there with the northern line. The
Glasgow and Paisley terminus, or joint terminus of
the Glasgow and South-western and the Glasgow
and Greenock, stands in Bridge- street, near the head
of the south side of the harbour, and presents to the
street only a small facade of heavy Doric character,
yet has extensive, well-contrived accommodations.
The Edinburgh and Glasgow terminus serves also
for the Dumbartonshire and Helensburgh; has its
entrance from Dundas-street, its exit to the head
of Queen-street, its main front to George-street;
comprises structures of different dates, inclusive of
an elegant edifice in Roman Doric, built in 1818 for
the congregation of Dr. Wardlaw, and purchased in
1852 for the uses of the railway ; and contains large
accommodation. Several contiguous works on the
railways, particularly a tunnel near the north ter-
minus of the Caledonian and a tunnel immediately
adjacent to the terminus of the Edinburgh and
Glasgow, were stupendous undertakings; and these
two tunnels, together with the Monldands railway,
intersect a point contiguous to Pultney-street, the
Edinburgh tunnel lowmost, the Caledonian tunnel
in the middle, the canal above. The number of
passengers who arrived, in 1861, by the Caledonian,
was 1,106,105, — by the Glasgow and Paisley,
256,821, — by the Glasgow and South-western,
194,579, — by the Edinburgh and Glasgow, 452, 108, —
by the Dumbartonshire and Helensburgh, 317,537 ;
and the number who departed, by the Caledonian,
was 977,274,— by the Glasgow and Paisley, 246,498,
— by the Glasgow and South-western, 191,594,— by
the Edinburgh and Glasgow, 469,329. — by the
Dumbartonshire and Helensburgh, 215,255. Loop-
lines, serving for goods, connect the northern Cale-
donian line with the Edinburgh and Glasgow, and
the southern Caledonian line with the Glasgow and
Paisley; while connections or ramifications of the
main lines, for both passengers and goods, give
communication to all parts of the kingdom,
The Monkland canal and the Forth and Clyde
canal, as already noted, have their harbour at Poi t-
Dundas ; and another canal, going to Paisley and
Johnstone, has its harbour at Port-Eglinton, south-
ward from the head of Bridge-street. All these
were formerly rife with passenger traffic ; but,
since the era of railways, have been used only
for goods. The passenger traffic on the Clyde,
especially for places on the frith from Dumbar-
ton down to Arran, is immense. River-steamers,
of beautiful construction, leave the harbour every
hour, and sometimes every half and quarter of an
hour from morning till night; and some of them
possess such power of steam, coupled with such
adaptation of structure to swift sailing, that thev
career through the water at the rate of 14 to 18
miles an hour. Public coaches or omnibuses run
regularly to all towns in the surrounding country,
not touched by the railways or the river; omnibuses
ply also between distant points within the city, and
its suburbs; and public cabs are constantly on hire
at central stands and at numerous offices. The
number of public conches, in 1861, was 64; of om-
nibuses, 53; of public cabs, 248. Twenty-three of
the omnibuses ran, within the city, aggregately
1,150 miles a-day; the other thirty ran, between
the city and suburban places, aggregately 1,200
miles a-day; and the whole were worked by about
550 horses, and carried daily about 12,500 pas-
sengers.
The Post-Office. — The mail to Edinburgh, prior to
1709, was carried on foot; and the letters for Lon-
don, prior to 1788, passed through Edinburgh, and
were detained there twelve hours. The post-office
was, at one time, in a small shop in Prince's-street,
then called Gibson's wynd ; at another, in St. An-
drew's street; at another, after 1803, in a court off
Trongate; at another, in Nelson-street; at another,
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GLASGOW.
*fter 1840, in Glassford- street; and is now in
George-square. Tlie present edifice was erected in
1856, and is in the Florentine style, with rusticated
basement and inscribed balustrade, but appears to
most of the merchants to be far deficient in both
largeness and elegance. There were, in 1861,
within the city and the suburbs, 19 receiving-offices,
25 public letter-boxes, 10 pillar-boxes, and 4 branch
money-order offices. The deliveries, in 1861, com-
prised 12,348,960 letters, 728,300 books, and 623,207
newspapers. The amount of money-orders, in 1860,
was £171,774 issued, and £239,097 paid. The re-
venue, in 1781, was £4,340; in 1810, £27,598; in
1839, £47,527; in 1843, after the introduction of
the penny postage, £26,709; in 1853, £54,254; in
1S60, £74,449. The letter-carriers have worn a
uniform since 1855.
The Electric Telegraph. — Offices of the Electric
Telegraph company are at the Royal Exchange and
St. Vincent-street; and offices of the British and
Magnetic company are at Exchange-square and the
Glasgow and Paisley railway terminus. The num-
ber of messages through these offices, during 1861,
exclusive of those for the railways and for the news-
papers, was 60,740 despatched, and 95,893 received.
Wires were erected, in 1861, to convey intelligence
from each quarter of the city to another; and have
also been prolonged into the neighbourhood, for
maintaining communication between counting-
houses and factories.
Banlcs. — The Bank of Scotland made two unsuc-
cessful attempts in 1696 and 1731 and following
years, to establish branches in Glasgow. The Ship
bank, now merged in the Union, was established in
1 749. The banking-offices at present in the city are
the office of the North British hank, the head offices
of the City of Glasgow and the Clydesdale banks,
a head office of the Union bank, great branch offices
of the Bank of Scotland, the Royal, the British
Linen, the Commercial, and the National banks,
and eight sub-offices of the City of Glasgow, two of
the Clydesdale, four of the Union, one of the Bank
of Scotland, four of the Royal, and one of the Com-
mercial. The statistics of all the banks, except the
North British, are given in our General Introduc-
tion. The North British bank's office is in West
Regent-street. The City of Glasgow bank's chief
office is a fine modern edifice, after a design by Mr.
Robert Black, in Virginia-street. The Clydesdale
bank's chief office was formerly an elegant struc-
ture of 1854, in Queen-street; but is now an edifice
with lofty facade and elaborately-carved frieze in
Millar-street, formerly occupied by the Western
bank, which failed in 1857. The Union bank's
chief office stands in Ingrain-street, across the end
of Virginia-street, and is an elegant edifice, model-
led after the temple of Jupiter Stator at Rome, with
a lofty hexastyle Doric portico resting on a curtain
basement, and surmounted by six colossal emblema-
tic statues. The Bank of Scotland's chief office
stands also in Ingrain-street, confronting Glassford-
street, and has, over its principal entrance, a sculp-
ture of two figures supporting a shield with the
city arms. The Royal bank's chief office stands on
the west side of Exchange- square, confronting the
rear of the Exchange, and is a tasteful structure
with Ionic portico. The British Linen bank's chief
office stands at the corner of Queen-street and Ing-
ram -street, opposite the Exchange, and is a large
edifice in the ornate Venetian style, with boldly-re-
lieved portions. The Commercial bank's chief
office stands in Gordon-street, a few paces from
Buchanan-street, and is a large, lofty, elaborately-
adorned edifice of 1857, on the model of the Farnese
palace at Rome. The National bank's chief office
stands in Queen-street, in the centre of a hollow
oblong connected with the Stock exchange, and is
a richly-ornamented building in the mixed Italian
style.
The national security savings' bank was institut-
ed in 1836; receives deposits, from individual de-
positors, to the amount of not more than £30 in one
year and £150 in all, in sums of not less than one
shilling at a time, but receives larger sums from
societies. The number of depositors in 1812 was
13,792,— in 1851, 28,266,— in 1861, 42,122 ; and the
sum accumulated in 1842, was £176,130 0s. 5d.,—
in 1851, £492,238 4s. lid.,— in 1861, £927,427 16s.
3d. The depositors, with the accumulated deposits,
in 1861, comprised 41,516 individuals, with £895,310
18s. 8d., 581 charitable societies, with £22,484 17s.
8d., and 25 friendly societies, with £9,631 19s. lid.
The office was originally in John-street, afterwards
in Hutcheson-street, and is now in an edifice of
1853, built at a cost of £3,440, at the corner of Wil-
son-street and Virginia -street. Penny savings'
banks were instituted subsequent to 1851 ; and there
were 59 of them within the city and the suburbs in
1861, having aggregately 15,160 depositors and
£3,654 10s. lid. of accumulated deposits.
Exchanges. — A public room for the perusal of
newspapers and other periodicals, was opened in
Glasgow about 1770 ; but conferred its benefits
upon only a few. A coffee-room or exchange read-
ing-room, with a hotel, on the Tontine plan, was
founded, in 1781, near the Cross; and formed, for
half a century, the great resort of the merchants;
but, on the movement of wealth and business to the
west, became mainly superseded by the Royal Ex-
change in Queen-street. The reading-room and
the hotel are still carried on ; and the former has
ample supplies of newspapers and periodicals, and
is accessible to ordinary subscribers for 20s. a-year,
to young men in situations for 10s., to farmers for
5s., and to strangers for four weeks free. The
buildings exhibit a fine range of Ionic pilasters,
resting on a rusticated arcade; and the latter has
grotesque sculptures of human faces on its key-
stones, and retires into a spacious piazza. — The
Royal Exchange occupies the east centre of an open
square area, confronting Ingram-street ; was built
in 1829, after designs by David Hamilton, at a cost
of £60,000; was partly a reconstruction of the
town-mansion of Cunninghame of Lainshaw, but
mainly a suite of new erections ; and is a splendid
edifice, in the Corinthian style, adorned on its main
front with a double-rowed octostyle portico, and
surmounted, behind the pediment, by a cyclostyle
lantern tower. Its reading-room is 130 feet long,
60 feet wide, and 30 feet high ; has an ornamental
roof, supported by Corinthian pillars; and is well
supplied with all kinds of newspapers and business
periodicals. The subscribers to it pay each £2 10s.
a-year, and are upwards of 2,000 in number; and
strangers introduced by subscribers, have free ac-
cess for four weeks. Spacious paved areas extend
along the flanks of the Exchange; ornamental
ranges of building, chiefly occupied as warehouses,
edifice the north and south sides of the square; and
two triumphal Doric arches give pedestrian com-
munication on the west to Buchanan-street. — The
Stock exchange, as already noted, stands conjoined
with the National bank — The Corn exchange stands
at the corner of Hope-street and Waterloo-street, is
an edifice of 1842 in the Italian style, and contains
a hall 80 feet by 57.
Public Houses and Hotels. — The proportion of
public houses to the inhabitants was 1 to 74 in 181G,
and 1 to 232 in 1861; but, judging by the cases of
drunkenness, which pass through the police-office.
GLASGOW.
7G3
GLASGOW.
and which are proportionally about as numerous as
ever, an increase in tlie size or business of the pub-
lic bouses seems to have kept pace with the de-
crease of their number. Temperance hotels have
happily come much into demand; and sixteen of
them, the YVaverley, the Caledonian, the Victoria,
Steel's, M'Arthur's, Graham's, Whyte's, Taylor's,
Drummond's, Murdoch's, Angus's, Buchanan's,
Dodd's, Uaddow's, Hamilton's, and Dunn's, are in
the most crowded parts of the city. The chief
commercial hotels are the Albion, the Albert, Al-
lan's, the Ayrshire, two Commercials, the Crow, the
Globe, His Lordship's Larder, the London Commer-
cial, the Rainbow, the Southwestern, the Thistle
and Sobo, the Tontine, and the Victoria. The first-
class hotels are the Buck's Head in Argyle-street,
the Bedford in St. George's-place, the Imperial in
North Queen-street, and the George, the Queen's,
and the Royal in George-square. The Buck's
Head was one of the earliest edifices in Argyle-
street, took rank at once and has ever kept it as a
first-class hotel, and presented, till of late, a quaint
front, with ascent to the entrance by outside flights
of steps. The three George-square first-class hotels
are very extensive establishments. Two clubs, the
Western and the Union, on the plan of the London
clubs, were established in respectively 1S24 and
1837. The Western club has upwards of 500 ordi-
nary members, and possesses a large handsome edi-
fice, with Corinthian decorations, in the Italian
palatial style, at the corner of Buchanan-street and
St. Vincent-street. The Union club was dissolved
in 1855, and bad then about 215 ordinary members.
Structure.
Site. — Glasgow stands partly on the left bank of
the Clyde, but chiefly on the right bank. Its site,
over all the left and over half of the right, is level
ground, lying in some parts below the elevation of
freshets in the river, and rising nowhere more than
a few feet above the elevation of spring tides; while
the site, over the upper or northern half of the right,
is ridgy ground, with much variety of contour,
sloping, undulating, tabular, or hilly, in some parts
almost level, in others steeply aeclivitous, at eleva-
tions of from 50 to 180 feet above the level of the
river. All the low ground is believed to have form-
ed part of a shallow estuary so recently as 3,000
years ago or less; and there have been found an-
cient rude canoes in some spots of it, beneath the
modern streets. The Molindinar burn sweeps round
the north-east in a deep ravine, but passes on to the
Clyde across the low ground. The river Kelvin
approaches and partly skirts the north-west in a fine
dell, and does not altogether lose overhanging high
banks till near the Clyde. The views within most
of the city, even including the environs, are con-
fined, mainly architectural, and largely character-
ized by the smoke and turmoil of a great seat of
manufactures; but those from a few of the higher
spots, particularly the Necropolis, Sightbill ceme-
tery, and the upper part of the West-End park,
combine picturesque foregrounds of the city with
rich rural perspectives, away to distant hills or
mountains.
Growth. — The germ of the city grew on high
ground adjoining the western side of the Molindinar
burn's ravine, nearly a mile north of the Clyde. Any
extension immediately eastward was not practicable,
in consequence of the opposite side of the ravine
being flanked by steep or precipitous hill. The
earliest extensions travelled over the high ground,
chiefly in rapid slopes south-eastward and south-
westward, to the plain. A grand series of exten-
sions, which constituted the main bulk of the city
till the latter part of last century, went southward
thence to an ancient bridge across the Clyde, on the
site of the present Victoria bridge. The central line
of thoroughfare through these extensions was the
Bell o' the Brae to the plain, and successively High-
street, Saltmarket, and Bridgegate to the bridge;
and this was intersected at the Cross, by a trans-
verse main line of thoroughfare, consisting of Gal-
lowgate going east and Trongate going west. The
principal extensions of the latter part of last cen-
tury and the early part of the present, went west-
ward along the plain, overall the breadth between
the high ground and the river; and had, for their
main thoroughfares, George-street along the base
of the high ground, Trongate, continued by Argyle-
street along the centre, and a number of transverse
streets going parallel or nearly so with High-street
and Saltmarket. Other extensions of contemporary
growths went eastward, partly on the wings of
Gallowgate, and thence eastward and south-east-
ward into suburbs, while still others germinated on
a small old suburb at the south end of the bridge
across the Clyde, and spread thence to the south, to
the east, and to the west. More recent extensions,
the greatest in bulk and the grandest in character,
have gone partly northward but chiefly westward,
from the end of George-street and the middle of
Argyle-street, away to the Kelvin, and in one part
beyond it; but from causes, variously physical and
economical, they have, over the latter part of their
growth, been incompact or straggling, leaving
great spaces either to lie in a waste condition or to
be partly occupied by unsightly tenements. These
extensions appear to a stranger as if evidently
planned on too ambitious a scale, and seem, from
the vast proportion of unoccupied houses, which we
shall afterwards notice, to have been in no small
degree uncompensating as yet to the builders;
but, at least, should they happen not to realize a
fond general expectation of the citizens, that Glas-
gow will yet and soon be compact all to the Kelvin,
and far to the west of it, they afford fine breathing
room to the inhabitants, and are much more promo-
tive of health and comfort than if they had been
constructed with slower caution and steadier
method.
Extent. — The royalty of the city lies all on the
right side of the Clyde, comprises 988J acres, and
is divided into the parishes of Blackfriars, Inner
High, Outer High, St. Andrew, St. David, St.
Enoch, St. George, St. James, St. John, St. Mary,
and small parts of Maryhill and Springburn. The
parliamentary burgh includes also the parishes of
Barony, Calton, and Gorbals, and parts of Govan,
Maryhill, and Springburn ; and a suburban tract
returned with the population of the city, includes
the parish of Shettleston and the rest of the parishes
of Govan, Maryhill, and Springburn. The entire
area is 21,336^ acres. The edificed area, exclusive
of detached parts and straggling outskirts, is about
4 miles from east to"wesi, and about 2 from north
to south ; and the strictly compact portion of this,
around the centre, is about 2i miles by 1J. The
aggregate of edificed roadway, within the parliamen-
tary burgh, is S6i miles; of unedificed roadway,
30 miles; of railway, 11 miles; of canal, 3 J miles.
Alignment. — The oldest parts of the royalty con-
tain alleys, curved thoroughfares, and narrow irre-
gular streets. The comparatively modern parts of
the city, both within the royalty and beyond it, com-
prising most of the northern, central, and southern
districts, consist chiefly of straight airy streets,
crossing one another at right angles. The part
along the right bank of the Clyde, for nearly a
mile downward from the south-eastern suburbs,
GLASGOW.
764
GLASGOW.
with a mean breadth of fully 3 furlongs, consists
of the public park of Glasgow Green. The
thoroughfares thence, along both banks of the
river, have the character, which we formerly
noticed as belonging to the quays, of spacious
street-terraces, edificed only on one side. The area
of the college gardens, at the back of High-street,
and two squares, George's and St. Enoch's, near the
middle of the central district, break the prevailing
density of the street-masses. The newest parts of
the city, in the west, display a splendid assemblage
of handsome streets, symmetrical terraces, elegant
crescents, one elevated square, and the richly-built
places at the West-End park, intermixed with open
grounds and ornamental shrubberies. The sub-
urban tracts are partly town and partly country,
partly contiguous to the great street-masses and
partly at a distance ; and they present every variety
of character, from the dense street or the dingy
village, to strings of villas and the open fields.
Most of the compact districts of the city exterior
to the royalty, and of the continuous suburbs on the
outskirts, have separate names, and either were
originally separate villages, or took theirdesignations
from separate estates. The chief, on the north, are
Cowcaddens, Port-Dundas, and St. Kollox ; on the
cast, C'alton, Camlachie, Mile-end, and Bridgeton ;
on the south, Hutchesontown, Goibals-proper, Lau-
riston, Tradeston, and Kingston, often aggregately
called Gorbals; and on the west, Blythswood Holm,
Anderston, Finnieston, Sandyford, and Kelvin-
haugh. Some of the detached edificed suburbs are
almost connected with the street-masses by inter-
mediate chains of houses ; while others stand a mile
or more distant by open road. The chief are, on
the north-west, the town of Maryhill, and the vil-
lage of Kippocli-bill ; on the north, the village of
Springburn; on the east, the villages of Shettleston,
Eastmuir, Hogganfield, Provenhall, Tollcross, Park-
head, and part of Barrochnie ; on the south, the vil-
lage of Strathbungo; on the south-west the villa-
street of Pollockshields ; on the west-south-west,
the town of Govan, and the villages of Govan-Hill-
Colliery and Whiteinch ; and on the west, the town
of Partick and the fine new aristocratic quarter of
Hillhead. Most of the rural portions of the sub-
urbs, too, are rural in only a comparative sense, and
present such a stir of passing traffic, such a srnoki-
ness of atmosphere, and such thick sprinklings of
mine-shafts, workshops, factories, or dwelling-
houses, as render them truly suburban.
Appearance. — The stranger, entering Glasgow by
any of its openings, is not impressed with any very
dignified notion of its grandeur or importance. By
the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway and the northern
line of the Caledonian, he enters through tunnels;
by the southern line of the Caledonian, he approaches
through murky mineral fields, and under the blaze
of iron works; by the Glasgow and Paisley railway,
or joint line of the Glasgow and .Southwestern and
the Glasgow and Greenock, he .enters along an ugly
viaduct over or among inferior houses ; by most of the
coach roads, he approaches through clouds of smoke,
and enters amid the din of spindles, the roar of
machinery, or the brattling of hammers; and even
by the Clyde, whose rich and varied beauty de-
lighted him as he came along, he has left all that
beauty behind him, and enters amid motley arrays
of ship-building yards, engineering establishments,
roperies, dye-works, and the clearances of the har-
bour. But no sooner does he leave the railway ter-
minus or the steamboat quay, or move into the centre
of the city, than he is struck with the spaciousness
and splendour of the streets, the numerousness and
luilliance of the public buildings, and the seeming
earnestness or intelligence of not a small proportion
of the passing throngs. He saw, or may have sur-
mised, as he entered, that much of the city is poor
and miserable ; he knows, or may have inferred,
that hd of it is a hive of industry ; and now he won-
ders to find it, at the same time, making a large
display of calm wealth, fine taste, and high beauty.
Glasgow boasts none of the thrilling picturesque-
ness of Edinburgh or Bath ; yet it goes some way
to rival them in their own style, possesses consider-
able attractions of ils own, and is far superior, as a
town, to most of the great seats of trade in either
Scotland or England,
Street-Architecture.- — The city, in general, is re-
markably well-built. The building material is a
fine light-coloured sandstone; the masonry is sub-
stantial; the house-ranges, for the most part, are
well amassed ; and the street-frontages are gen-
erally polished and lofty. The ancient districts
have much haggardness, few recent renovations,
and little of the old Scottish style which gives so
quaint and romantic an aspect to some of the old
parts of Edinburgh. The less ancient districts are
chiefly in the simple common style which prevails
in most stone-built British towns. The newer dis-
tricts also are in the same style, but with much
ornamentation, at first light and graceful, hut after-
wards increasingly heavy, excessive, and in ques-
tionable taste. The newest districts are ambitious
and showy; some parts in very tasteful Italian;
others abounding in pillared porches, projecting or
divided windows, balconies, and balustrades; and
the grand front range on the crown of the West-
End-Park in the French style. A strong fondness
is shown for the pillar decoration, even up to the
Corinthian and the composite, but sometimes on a
poor type. The reconstructions of the last ten or
fifteen years, in the chief business-streets, also dis-
play a passion for variety of style and profusion of
ornament, with effects more striking than classical,
producing edifices of Saxon, Norman, Koman,
Flemish, and mixed characters, in near neighbour-
hood to one another, and in juxtaposition with old
or plain buildings. Even a strong, lofty, ornate,
iron shell, is not awanting in lieu of a stone-house ;
and paint itself, in the absence of solid decoration,
has occasionally been laid on in gaudy colours.
These features, however, are exceptional ; and,
while no doubt pleasing to the eyes of many ob-
servers, they do not, to even a severe taste, ma-
terially mar the effect of the prevailing elegance.
Drvgate, Rotten Kow, and Bell o: the Brae, in the
vicinity of the cathedral, retain some vestiges of
ancient grandeur. Ladywell-street, in the same
vicinity, contains a restored small structure over a
famous well, anciently dedicated to the Virgin
Mary. Uuke's-place, adjacent to Drygate, con-
tained, till 1853, an ancient castle which entertained
Queen Mary, belonged afterwards to the Duke of
Montrose, and gave name to the modern neighbour
ing Duke-street, which leads, on a line with George-
street, to the eastern suburbs, High-street retains
some very old edifices, and is ribbed witli closes,
densely peopled by the poor. Saltmarket was once
the chief residence of the magistrates of the city, the
Bailie Nicol Jarvies of their time, and gave lodging
to James, Duke of York, afterwards King James
VII.; and it contained, till about 1822, some curious
ancient houses ; but it now is the centre of the rag-
fair of Glasgow, and presents no feature of interest.
Bridgegate also was once a place of high note, con-
taining the house in which Oliver Cromwell lodged,
town-mansions of several noble families, and after-
wards the only banks of the city, the Merchants'
hall, and the Assembly-rooms, in which the Duchess
GLASGOW.
765
GLASGOW.
of Douglas led oft' the Glasgow civic balls about the
commencement of last century ; and it still possesses
some fine old features, but is akin in present char-
acter to Saltmarket. King-street, going from Bridge-
gate to Trongate parallel with Saltmarket, was a less
ancient aristocratic quarter, but also has been re-
linquished to the poor. St. Andrew's square, 120
yards east of Saltmarket, and connected with it by
St. Andrew-street, was built in the latter part of
last century as an aristocratic quarter; and it shows
a symmetry and an ornature worthy of its design ;
but it soon went into disrepute. London-street,
going eastward from the head of Saltmarket, with
acute divergence from the line of Trongate, is a
straight, neat, modern outlet to the south-eastern
suburbs, and leads to them by a fine terrace-line,
called Mouteith-row, along the upper verge of Glas-
gow Green. Gallowgate and most of the eastern
parts and suburbs are irregularly editiced and
clingy.
Trongate, already noticed on page 735, was the
seat of all the main business of the city so late as
the time of the tobacco trade; and it has every-
where a width of fully 60 feet, and is all lined with
stately edifices, a few of them somewhat old, but
others new and ornate. A block of buildings, on its
north side, at the corner of Nelson-street, is an im-
posing structure of 1857, in the old Scottish baronial
style, after designs by Mr. Hochead, and occupies
the site of a house in which Sir John Moore was
born. Candlerigg- street, going northward on a
line with King-street, is a comparatively ancient
thoroughfare, entirely modernized. Three wynds
going southward on the west of King-street, but
screened from Trongate by handsome buildings, are
packed with most miserable abodes, and have a
similar character to the Cowgate and worst closes
of Edinburgh. Hutcheson-street and Glassford-
street, going northward from Trongate, parallel to
Candlerigg-street, are spacious, pleasant, and com-
paratively modern; and the former took its name
from Hutcheson's hospital confronting its head, —
the latter from a distinguished merchant of the
times of the tobacco trade, mentioned by Smollett in
his "Humphrey Clinker." Stockwell- street, going
southward on a line with Glassford-street to Vic-
toria bridge, is older, and was long the south-
western verge of the city.
Argyle-street, going on a line with Trongate
fully three quarters of a mile westward to Ander-
ston, is all as stately and spacious as Trongate, but
has a larger proportion of recent houses, and a
larger number of the variously ornate. Virginia-
street and Miller-street, going northward parallel
to Glassford-street, were originally editiced with
the mansions of the rich merchants in the times of
the tobacco trade ; and the former took its name
from their traffic with Virginia ; but both have been
completely altered or re-edificed. Queen-street, in
the same alignment further west, was long the line
of road by which the citizens' cattle went to the
common pastures; and it continued to be called
Cow-loan within the memory of persons still alive;
but it underwent entire change, followed by entire
reconstruction, and is now one of the most hand-
some business streets in the city. Buchanan-street,
also in the same alignment still further west, was,
so late as 1816 or later, a place of villas, so secluded
that grass grew plentifully on its carriage-way; but
is now lined with lofty, elegant, business tenements,
contains many grand shops, and several public halls,
and has long been one of the most crowded and
fashionable of all the thoroughfares. Argyle arcade,
going from Argyle-street to Buchanan-street, first
northward, then westward, is a long, glass-covered
alley, lined with fine shops, and sometimes called by
the citizens their Crystal Palace. St. Enoch's-
square, entered from Argyle-street by a brief
thorough fare opposite the foot of Buchanan-street,
was originally a villa-built aristocratic quarter, with
enclosed lawn and shrubbery ; but, without much re-
construction of its buildings, has been all given up to
business and shorn of its enclosure. Jamaica-street,
going southward from Argyle-street to Glasgow-
bridge, is the main thoroughfare to the harbour and
the southern railways; and it presents a strange
and striking variety in its house-architecture. An-
derston, at the western extremity of Argyle-street,
was originally a weavers' village, founded in 1725;
rose to be a considerable town, at the distance of
half-a-mile from the outskirts of Glasgow ; became
eventually the chief seat of the marine steam-engine
establishments, as well as a seat of other factories;
and retains a crowded, sooty, malodorous character,
with multitudes of very inferior houses, engirt by
the recent extensions of the city.
The many other parts and thoroughfares, except-
ing in a few peculiar or illustrative instances, need
not be specified. Most consist of either the newer
or newest extensions, and are either pleasingly neat
or grandly ornate. George-square, at the top of
Queen street, was originally all a place of wealthy
private residences, around a spacious garden en-
closure; but, while retaining the enclosure, it has
been considerably re-built, and is now entirely oc-
cupied by large hotels and by houses of business.
A large aggregate of street adjacent to this square
and westward, was also originally edificed for the
residence of wealthy families; and, without much
alteration on its buildings, has been converted to
business uses. A large sprinkling of new or recent
warehouses occurs in the same neighbourhood, and
exhibits much variety of architectural style. Cow-
caddens, north-west of the head of Buchanan-street,
was originally a poor village, built on the common
pastures of the city's cattle ; and, though now con-
tinuous with the new streets, and itself all re-built
or modern, it retains its poor character, and spreads
densely over a large area, entirely occupied by the
working-classes. Sauchiehall-street, deflecting from
Buchanan-street, near its head, and going more than
a mile westward to the vicinity of the West-End
park, was chiefly, till about 1830, a rural " loaning,"
but is now a splendid street 60 feet in width, — the
eastern part of mixed appearance, — the central part
lined on one side with stately shops and dwellings,
and overlooked on the other by a chain of villas, —
the western part disposed in brilliant terraces and
crescents, with fronting lawns and shrubberies.
\ series of arcades, going from the lower part of
Sauchiehall-street to Cowcaddens, is of similar char-
acter to the Argyle arcade. Blythswood-square, on
the crown of a broad-based tabular eminence 1^ fur-
long south of the central part of Sauchiehall-street,
is a spacious, elegant, symmetrically-edificed place
of private dwellings, with central garden-enclosure,
and commands fine views down radiating streets
and over the western suburbs. Garnet-hill, a steep
ridge flanking the north side of the central part of
Sauchiehall-street, is well covered with genteel
streets, and commands better and wider views than
Blythswood-square. A district round the western
part of Sauchiehall-street, called collectively the
Crescents, and containing numerous terraces, the
Park circus, and the Elmbank, the Woodside, the
Lyndoch, the Claremont, the Royal, and the St.
Vincent crescents, abounds in garden plots and
shrubberies, and presents, like the New Town of
Edinburgh, many a range of elegant houses, con-
structed on some plan of a single facade, combining
GLASGOW.
766
GLASGOW.
aniformity with diversity, as in the facade of a single
building.
The Gorbals districts, on the south side of the
Clyde, occupying a similar relative position in Glas-
gow to what Southwark does in London, contain
about 80,000 inhabitants, and would, if they stood
alone, be a great town of themselves. Their
streets, in general, have a close resemblance to
those of the west-central parts of the city; and at
least two of them, Abbotsford-place and Apsley-place,
together with some outskirts, are highly genteel ;
but most, especially in the east, are connected with
factories and occupied by the working-classes ; few
present any features of much interest; and the one
which goes southward from Victoria bridge is chiefly
an old narrow thoroughfare, winged with wretched
closes, and popularly called "Little Ireland."
Public Buildings. — The public buildings of Glasgow
are very numerous, and make a great aggregate dis-
play, but do not present so much variety as might
be expected. Most of the many steeples are spiral,
and very similar to one another; and, as seen from
some vantage grounds, they and the chimney-
stalks of the factories appear intermixed like an
assemblage of obelisks. Most of the many modern
churches, also, are on one type, a coarsely ambi-
tious Gothic; and, as looked at one after another,
they appear a good deal like a continual repetition
of the same structure. Most of even the Grecian
or the Roman edifices, likewise, so far resemble one
another as to exhibit the common character of one
porticoed front and plain flanks and rear. Variety
indeed exists, and is even plentiful, but not in a
pleasant way, for it revels in debasing the Gothic,
modifying tiie Grecian, or blending or confounding
different styles. Yet some of the buildings are
faultless and magnificent; while others, in spite of
all their faults, are either pleasing in themselves or
form striking features in the general picture. All
those connected with public institutions and all the
ecclesiastical ones will be noticed in subsequent
divisions of our article, and some were noticed in
the previous division, so that only a few fall to be
noticed in the immediately following paragraphs.
Bridges. — An elegant one-arched bridge, fanci-
fully called the Bridge of Sighs, spans the ravine of
the Molindinar burn in the vicinity of tlie cathedral,
has an ornate Tudor portal, and forms the entrance
to the Necropolis. Two good modern bridges cross
the Kelvin, communicating with Hillhead ; and an
old one, repaired in 1862, crosses the same stream,
communicating with Partick. An old unsightly
stone bridge crosses the Clyde at the south-eastern
suburbs, leading out to Eutherglen; a light, hand-
some, pedestrian suspension bridge, erected in 1855,
crosses it from Glasgow Green, a little above Nel-
son's monument; and three spacious stone bridges,
called the Hutchesontown, the Victoria, and the
Glasgow, and a pedestrian suspension bridge, cross
it on the lines of communication with Gorbals. A
bridge on the site of the Hutchesontown one, on a
line with Saltmarket, was founded in 1794, but was
swept away by a flood, next year, when very nearly
completed. A timber bridge succeeded it, but was
not strong, and served only for foot passengers.
The present bridge was erected in 1833, after de-
signs by Eobert Stevenson; and is a heavy struc-
ture, 406 feet long and 36 feet wide, with five arches.
A weir and lock are above it, to accommodate the hy-
pothetical shipping at Eutherglen, and maintain the
level of the water for public works. A bridge on
the site of the Victoria bridge, on the line of Stock-
well-street, was erected about 1345; formed, for up-
wards of four centuries, the only direct means of
communication between Glasgow and the south ;
underwent great improvements in 1776 and 1821;
and was taken down in 1850. The present bridge
was completed in 1856, after designs by James
Walker, at a cost of £40,000 ; consists of sandstone,
faced with granite ; and is an elegant structure, 445
feet long and 60 feet wide, with five arches of from
67 to 80 feet in span. The suspension bridge stands
li furlong further down the river, was erected in
1853, and is a very handsome structure. A bridge,
on the site of the Glasgow bridge, on a line with
Jamaica-street, was founded in 1768, had seven
arches, and was 500 feet long, but bad neither suffi-
cient width of roadway to suit the rapidly-increas-
ing traffic nor sufficient depth of foundation to suit
the deepening of the harbour, and required to be
taken down. The present bridge was completed in
1835, after designs by Telford, at a cost of £37,000;
consists of sandstone, faced with granite; is 560
feet long and 60 feet wide; has seven spacious
arches; and shows handsome features of spandril
and parapet. These bridges are under the manage-
ment of a Trust, consisting of the town-council and
twelve gentlemen of the neighbouring counties. A
pontage for foot-passengers is charged only on the
suspension-bridge, but for carriages, carts, and cat-
tle is charged on all the three stone bridges. The
revenue, in 1861, was £8,127 3s. 8d. ; the ordinary
expenditure, £1,6S9 4s. 7d. ; the debt, £28,387 4s.
Id. And as the extraordinary expenditure was
only £335 Is. 8d., there was a clear hope that the
debt would be extinguished in the course of four or
at most five years.
Municipal Booms. — The council -chamber and
municipal offices were long in a building at the
Cross, were afterwards in the South Prison quad-
rangle, at the foot of Saltmarket, and are now in an
edifice with main front to Wilson-street and flank-
fronts to Hutcheson-street and Brunswick-street.
This edifice was erected in 1844, after designs by
Messrs. Clark and Bell, at a cost of £62,000; ex-
hibits, on its main front, a grand hexastyle Ionic
portico, with sculptured basement- wall; and besides
the council chamber and the city offices, contains
the county fiscal's chambers, the county sheriff
court-room, and other apartments. A fine full-
length portrait of the Queen, by Daniel M'Nee, is
in the council-chamber. — The old town-hall, in the
Tontine buildings at the Cross, is 55 feet long, 34
feet wide, and 25 feet high, and contains portraits
of the third Duke of Argyle and several of the Scot-
tish kings; formerly contained also a marble statue
of Pitt by Flaxman, which has been removed to the
Gallery of Art in Sauchiehall-street. — The baronial
hall and police offices in South Portland-street,
formerly used for the separate municipal govern-
ment of the Gorbals districts, are a handsome and
commodious suite of buildings.
Merchants' and Trades' Halls. — The old Mer-
chants' hall was at Guildry court in Bridgegate;
and a steeple connected with it, a fine symmetrical
structure, 164 feet high, built in 1661-9, after de-
signs by Sir William Bruce, is still standing. The
present Merchants' hall stands in Hutcheson-street,
contiguous to the municipal buildings; was erected
in 1843, at a cost of £10,300; is an elegant edifice
with Corinthian decorations; and contains a statue
of the late Kirkman Pinlay by Gibson. The Trades'
hall stands in Glassford-street, confronting Garth-
land-street; was built in 1791, after designs by
Robert Adam ; shows a pleasing facade, with Doric
columns, sculptures, and Venetian windows; is sur-
mounted by a fine dome; and contains an apart-
ment 70 feet long and 35 feet wide, adorned with
armorial bearings of the trades, and with civic
portraits.
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767
GLASGOW.
Police Buildings. — Tlie police-office, in its early
periods, was a small affair, and was located from
time to time in various parts of the city. A suite
of buildings for it was erected, in the angle of Bell-
street and Albion-street, midway between High-
street and Candlerigg-street, in 1825, at a cost of
£15,000; and an addition to this was erected, in
1851, at a cost of £8,000. The buildings contain a
ball for the sittings of the police-court, another for
the meetings of the police-committee of the town-
council, accommodations for the superintendent of
streets, the surveyors, tiij treasurer, and other offi-
cials, and ranges of cells and ward-rooms for pri-
soners. An adjoining builu'ing consists of barracks
and other accommodation for the unmarried mem-
bers of the force ; and buildings in College-street, at
a short distance, erected in 1851, accommodate the
fire brigade. These offices collectively serve for
what is called the central police division ; and other
offices, in respectively Calton, Gorbals, Anderston,
and Cowcaddens, serve for what are called the
eastern, the southern, the western, and the northern
police divisions.
Prisons. — The old tolbooth stood at the cornel' of
High-street and Trongate; was erected in 1626-7;
contained 32 cells for prisoners; contained also, as
already noticed, the council-chamber; and figures
in Sir Walter Scott's novel of Rob Roy. All of it
was latterly found to be singularly defective and
inconvenient; and it gave place to a modern build-
ing, disposed in shops and warehouses, and heavily
adorned with projecting turrets. But a steeple
which was connected with the Tolbooth still stands,
obstructing the foot-pavement of High-street, and
latterly pierced there with a narrow way for pas-
sengers; and is a square ungraduated tower of six
stories, surmounted by flying buttresses and a
spirelet in the form of an imperial crown, rising to
the height of 126 feet, and containing a chime of
28 bells. — The South prison, at the foot of Salt-
market, with main front toward Glasgow Green and
south flank toward the Clyde, is a great quadrangu-
lar pile, erected in 1814, after designs by William
Stark, at a cost of £34,800; displays, on its main
front, a lofty double-rowed hexastyle portico; and
was disposed originally in 122 cells for prisoners,
chambers, and offices for the town-council, and
court-room and apartments for the assizes. But
only 39 of its cells were suitable for the separate
system of present discipline; while its other por-
tions proved incompetent for their respective uses;
and now most of its interior is disposed in two spa-
cious assize court-rooms, and in other departments
connected with the administration of justice. — The
North prison, on the north side of Duke-street, 300
yards from High-street, sprang from a Bridewell of
1798; is an assemblage of strong buildings, of dif-
ferent dates till 1854; and contains 26 rooms or
cells for debtors, 3S6 ceils for male criminals, 200
cells for female criminals, a chapel, baths, store-
rooms, and all other requisite prison appliances.
The statistics will be given under a subsequent
head.
Barracks. — The infantry-barracks, on the north
side of Gallowgate, 600 yards from the Cross, were
erected in 1795, and have accommodation for up-
wards of 1,000 men, and a spacious enclosed parade-
ground. A square of buildings on the southern
outskirts of Gorbals, 3 furlongs south of Eort-Eg-
linton, was erected, at a later period, for cavalry-
barracks, and was, for some time, occupied as such,
but proved to be unsuitable, and was sold in 1850
to the Govan parochial board, and fitted up as a
poors' house.
Assembly Hails. — The City hall, in Candlerigg-
street, contiguous to the bazaar, is a large building
of plain exterior; contains an elegant apartment,
resting on massive stone pillars and strong arches,
capable of seating about 4,000 persons, used for
concerts, soirees, and great public meetings, and
provided with an orchestra and a very powerful or-
gan; contains also a small hall, committee-rooms,
and a well-constructed kitchen. Saturday-evening
concerts, for the amusement of the working-classes,
have been held in the large hall during eight
months from September to April every year since
1853, and attended, on the average, by about 2,800
persons.— The Corporation halls and gallery of art,
on the north side of Sauchiehall-street, between
Cambridge-street and Rose-street, are a superb suite
of buildings in the Italian style, erected in 1854 by
Mr. Archibald Mnclellan for the reception of a rich
collection of first-class paintings, which he purposed
to bequeath to the public as the commencement of a
Glasgow gallery of art. The buildings were scarcely
completed when he died; and they and the paintings
proved in risk of being alienated, and were pur-
chased by the city corporation. Other paintings
were added by Mr. William Ewingand others; and
the whole have been carefully classified according
to their respective schools, and have latterly been
accessible to the public free of charge. Assemblies,
balls, and other great social displays are now held
in these halls, in place of the old assembly-rooms
and the old town-hall. The number of persons who
visited the halls in the Christmas holidays, from 25
December I860 to 5 January 1861, was 4,348; and
on the Fair holidays, from 12 to 17 July 1861, was
1,882. — The Queen's Rooms, in La Belie Blace, ad-
jacent to the main entrance of the West-End park,
are a large, recent, splendid edifice, in the Roman
style, with emblematic sculptures, filling a broad
frieze; and contain an elegant spacious hall, pro-
vided with a fine organ, and used for public assem-
blies.— The Exhibition-rooms, in Bath-street, were
originally a large dwelling-house, and were fitted
up, a few years ago, by the Architectural Institute
of Scotland, as a museum of art and manufacture.—
The Merchants' hall and the Trades' hall also are
used for public meetings. The old assembly-rooms
have been changed in object, and will be noticed
when we come to speak of the Athenamni.
Theatres. — The first theatre in Glasgow was a
temporary booth fitted up, in 1752, in the vicinity
of the wall of the Archbishop's palace. A regular
theatre was built, in 1764, in the Grahamstown
suburb; suffered much damage by fire, on the first
night of performance ; was re-fitted, but had very in-
different success; and was burned to the ground in
1782. A theatre was built in Dunlop-street, off
Argyle-street, in 1785, and opened by Mrs. Siddons,
Mrs. Jordan, and other distinguished performers.
Another theatre, one of the largest and most ele-
gant in the United Kingdom, was built a few years
afterwards, in the upper part of Queen-street, at a
cost of £18,500; and was burnt to the ground in
January 1829. The Dunlop-street theatre was re-
built in 1839-40; and is a showy but tasteless
edifice, with exterior statues of Shakspeare, Garrick,
and Mr. Alexander. A neat theatre was fitted up in
1848, in West Nile-street; but came to be under
the same management as the Dunlop-street theatre,
and began then to be used chiefly in the summer
months. A most appalling catastrophe took place
in the Dunlop-street theatre on the night of 17th
February, 1849. When the play was in progress,
an unfounded alarm of fire in the upper gallery
excited a panic, when the people in this part of the
house made a rush to escape by the stair leading to
the street. Some of them tripped and fell at thy
GLASGOW.
768
GLASGOW.
lowest landing from the bottom, and one of the
leaves of the door at this spot got jammed. As
others followed in frantic alarm, they fell over or
upon those who had fallen before them, and the
crowd behind still pressed on from the gallery. The
consequence was that the staircase was in a few
minutes in the state of the black hole of Culcutta;
and although many were rescued in an insensible
state, no fewer than 65 men, women, and children,
were trampled to death or suffocated. Another ca-
tastrophe, affecting chiefly the building itself, but
very disastrous to it, came upon this theatre in the
latter part of January 18G3. The building was ren-
dered temporarily useless; a portion of its walls
suffered such severe damage as to require to be
taken down ; and a large portion of its paraphernalia,
including dresses and musical instruments, was de-
stroyed.
Professional Halls. — The Procurators' hall, behind
St. George's church, with fronts to St. George's-
place and West-Nile-street, is an elegant Venetian
edifice of 1856; contains the hall and library-room
of the faculty of procurators of Glasgow ; and is the
place for public sales of heritable property. The
faculty was chartered in 1796, and had 194 members
in 1861. — The Surgeons' hall, on the east side of
St. Enoch's square, is a two-story structure, with
rusticated basement, pillars, and balustrade ; and
belongs to the faculty of physicians and surgeons of
Glasgow. This faculty was founded in 1599; was
recognized by the medical practitioners act of 1858;
and had 68 resident and 36 non-resident members in
1861.
Monuments. — A bronze equestrian stalue of
William III. stands on the pavement in front of the
Tontine, and was erected in 1735, at the expense of
James Macrae, a citizen of Glasgow, who had been
governor of Madras. A sandstone obelisk, 114 feet
high, to the memory of Lord Nelson, stands on a
swell in the lower part of Glasgow Green ; and was
erected in 1806, at a cost of £2,075. A monument
to Sir Walter Scott, consisting of pedestal and fluted-
Doric column, 80 feet high, altera design by David
Rhind, surmounted by a colossal standing statue
from the chisel of A. II. Richie, is in the centre of
the enclosed area in George - square, and was
erected in 1837. A standing bronze statue of Sir
John Moore, by Flaxman, is within the railings at
the middle of the south side of George-square, and
was erected in 1819. A sitting bronze statue of
James Watt, by Cbantrey, is within the railings at
the south-west corner of George-square, and was
erected in 1832. A standing bronze statue of Sir
Robert Peel, by Mossman, is within the railings at
the north-west corner of George-square, and was
erected in 1858. A bronze equestrian statue of the
Duke of Wellington, on a granite pedestal, with
bronze-sculptured panels, stands on the pavement
in front of the Royal exchange ; and was executed by
Baron Marochetti, at a cost of £10,000, and set up
in 1844. A bronze equestrian statue of Queen Vic-
toria, also by Baron Marochetti, stands in St. Vin-
cent-place, off the east side of Buchanan-street, and
was erected in 1854. A standing bronze statue of
James Oswald, long a member of parliament for
Glasgow, is at Charing- Cross, on the north side of
Sauchiehall-street, anil was erected in 1856. A
bronze statue of James Lumsden, three years lord-
provost of Glasgow, and nineteen years honorary
treasurer of the Royal Infirmary, — the statue by
Mossman, and 8J feet high — is in Royal Infirmary-
square, and was set up in the early part of 1863. A
neat suite of dwelling-houses, at the corner of
Buchanan-street and Sauchiehall-street, was built
bv subscription, at a cost of £4.600, as a gilt to the
late Dr. Cleland, author of "Annals of Glasgow,"
and bears the name of the Cleland testimonial.
Monuments of William Pitt and Kirkman Finlay,
as already noticed, are in respectively the Corpora-
tion halls and the Merchants' hall ; and a number
of fine monuments are in the Necropolis and other
cemeteries.
Public Parks. — An ancient public park of Glas-
gow was latterly known as the Merchants' or the
Fir park, and is now the Necropolis. Another,
called the Old Green, lay along the Clyde westward
from Stockweli-street, and was at one time the
fashionable promenade of the citizens, but became
all built upon, or appropriated to some industrial
use, before the commencement of the present cen-
tury. A third, known as Glasgow Green, lying
along all the north side of the Clyde above Hutche-
sontown bridge, was originally of small extent,
and formed part of the grant made by James II., in
1450; to Bishop Turnbull, for the benefit of the com-
munity; but by successive purchases made by the
wise town councillors of other years, it has been en-
larged to its present noble dimensions of fully 140
acres. For generations the Green was allowed to
remain almost in a state of nature, being cut up with
springs, holes, and marshes ; but latterly it has
been drained, improved, and most handsomely laid
out, and a ride or carriage drive of about 2£ miles in
length formed around. Previous to these modern
days, when wealth and fashion moved westwards,
this used to be the summer rendezvous of the pride
and beauty of the city; it Was the scene, as it is
partly still, of all the manly sports; and it was the
field of all grand military exercises, especially in
the stirring times " when George the Third was
King," and when every shopkeeper was a soldier.
It cannot at all times, however, be depended on for
the purity of its atmosphere; for a forest of factory
and smithy chimneys is situated north and south,
and as the science of smoke-burning is as yet either
unknown or unappreciated in these parts, the con-
sequence is, that in certain states of the wind, the
black volumes of coal vapour are rolled over upon
the Green in bitter abundance. A valuable seam
of coal exists under the Green ; hut nothing short
of the bankruptcy of the city would permit the
ground to be opened for its mineral resources. Some
copious springs of excellent water also are in the
Green ; and these, in the times preceding the for-
mation of the city water-works and the migration of
the wealthier classes to the west, occasioned this
park to be the scene of almost all the washing and
bleaching operations of the entire city. Hence,
suys Wilson, in his poem of " The Clyde," —
" Here bare/oot beauties lightly trip along ;
Their snowy labours all the verdure throng,
The linen some with rosy fingers rub,
And the white foam o'eiflows the smoking tub.
Their bright approach impurity refines ;
At every touch the linen brighter shines.
Whether they bathe it in the crystal wave,
Or on the stream the whitening surges lave;
Or from the painted can the fountains pour,
Softly descending in a shining shower;
Till as It lies, its fair transparent hue
Shows like a lily dipt in morning dew *'
The West-End park, or Kelvingrove, lying along
the left bank of the Kelvin between Woodside and
Sandyford, was formed out of lands purchased by
the town council in 1853. These cost £99,569;
but a portion of them was set aside for feus, in so
wise and judicious a way as to afford fair promise of
re-imbursing all the cost. The entire lands comprise
a tabular hill on the east, rapid slopes northward,
westward, and southward to the skirts, and a plain
from the skirts to the Kelvin. The portion set
GLASGOW.
769
GLASGOW.
aside for feus includes the higher ground, and is now
superbly ediliced in Park-circus and Park-street on
the tableau, and in symmetrical curving terraces on
the crest of the slopes. The portion reserved for the
public amounts to 45 acres, includes the middle and
lower slopes and the plain, and is grandly laid out
in walks, drives, and shrubberies, after designs by Sir
Joseph Paxton. Noble flights of granite steps go
up the eastern part of the slopes ; high iron railings
and gates form the eastern and southern enclosures;
some of the walks and drives curve round the crest;
two guns and a mortar taken from the Russians in
the Crimean war, stand on the highest point within
the railing ; and brilliant views, down the Clyde and
over Renfrewshire, are obtained from the higher
walks and the terraces. Another large public park
of ornate character, called the Queen's park, was
formed at the Southern outskirts of Gorbals in 1862.
— A large wooded area, hilly and tumulated, lying
along the right bank of the Kelvin, opposite the
West-End park, and known as the Gilmourhill
gardens, has latterly become practically a public
park, the scene of attractive public fetes in the sum-
mer months, drawing great crowds of visitors, and
open at little more than nominal prices of admission.
Cemeteries. — Some ancient cemeteries in the city
have been converted into building-ground or mar-
ket-places, while others, at the cathedral, at Black-
friars' church, at St. David's, at St. Mary's, at Gor-
bals, at Calton, and at Bridgeton, are still in use ;
but these are now generally regarded as " plague-
spots" to the public health, and are fast going into
desuetude. The interments in the cathedral ceme-
tery were 2,956 in 18-48, and only 413 in 1861. The
interments in Blackfriars' and St. David's were 100
in 1851, and 51 in 1861; in St. Mary's 1,860 in
1851, and 134 in 1861 ; in Gorbals, 678'in 1851, and
589 in 1861; in Calton, 509 in 1851, and 328 in
1861; in Bridgeton, 187 in 1851, and 111 in 1861.
The cathedral cemetery is the oldest; includes
an aboriginal extensive space almost completely
covered with gravestones and monuments; includes
also newer extensive spaces laid out in modern
taste ; and contains a monument to a number of the
martyrs of the covenant, and many other interest-
ing mementoes. The other old cemeteries show no
features but such as are common to places of their
kind. A desire is felt, on the part of the authorities,
to keep them and the cathedral cemetery all intact
as future lungs to the city, to plant their surface
with trees and shrubs, and to preserve their monu-
ments as indicators of the past.
The Necropolis is an ornamental cemetery, formed
since 1828, after the model of the Pere-la Chaise of
Paris. The site is a steep hill, formerly the Mer-
chants' or Fir park, much diversified in surface, ris-
ing to the height of 250 feet above the level of the
sea, and separated from the cathedral and its olden
cemetery only by the Molindinar burn. The view
from the summit is picturesque, interesting, and
beautiful. To the south-west the city extends in
all its mighty proportions, with its many spires ris-
ing far above the roofs of the dwellings; while to the
east the eye is refreshed by a long vista of hill and
dale, with agricultural and woodland scenery. The
ground affords scope for every variety of resting-
place — the turf-covered grave, the vault, and the
rocky sepulchre. The whole is most beautifully
laid out and kept; the rank grass is completely es-
chewed; and the visitor moves through a long line
of walks, cut on the hill-side and summit, sur-
rounded on every side by shrubbery and flower beds
■ — memorials of affection which are sweet, comely,
and abiding, and which call back, with a chastened
glow of pleasing sadness, the memory of the friends
we have loved and lost. The Necropolis abounds in
tombs and monuments, many of them artistic and
architectural gems of rare beauty, and not a few
consecrated to genius and worth which the world
has already recognised. The earliest and most con-
spicuous monument is a lofty Doric column, rising
from a square base, and surmounted by a colossal
statue, in honour of John Knox. Another con
spicuous monument is a Tudor structure on a
quadrangular base, with a colossal statue to the
memory of William M'Gavin, author of "The Pro-
testant." Other interesting monuments are a beau-
tiful Ionic structure to the memory of the Rev.
Dr. Dick, a large florid mausoleum to the memory
of Major Menteith, an elegant architectural facade
at the tomb of the Jews, and statues or other struc-
tures to the memory of Charles Tennant, Colin
Dunlop, Colonel Patterson, William Motherwell,
Dr. Macnish, the Rev. Dr. Heugh, the Rev. Dr.
Wardlaw, and the Very llev. Principal Macfarlane.
Sighthill cemetery, in the north-eastern outskirts,
600 yards north of St. Rollox, was begun to be
formed in 1840, belongs to a joint stock company,
occupies a rising-ground nearly 400 feet high, com-
mands a magnificent view from Tinto to the Gram-
pians, comprises 12 acres of highly ornamental
burying ground, includes also 34 acres available for
extension, has a splendid gateway and an elegant
chapel, and contains an obelisk to the memory of
Hardie and Baird, who were executed for treason in
1820, and some beautiful tombstones and other
monuments. The Southern Necropolis, on the lands
of Little Govan, 500 yards north-cast of the Govan
iron works, is a parallelogram of 11 acres, with en-
tirely flat surface, ornamentally arranged, and con-
taining many neat monuments — There are two
other recent, well-kept, suburban, rural cemeteries
in the eastern outskirts' and at Dalbeth. — The parent
Necropolis sprang principally from the exertions of
the late Dr. Ewing of Levenside and Dr. Strang
the city chamberlain ; and is the parent, not only of
the other ultramural cemeteries of Glasgow, but of
all the numerous garden-cemeteries throughout
Scotland. A taste for cryptal burial, not only under
certain old churches but under several new ones,
competed for a time with the Necropolis scheme,
but has happily been exploded.
Water-Supply. — About the beginning of the
present century, Glasgow depended for its supply
of water chiefly on 27 public and a few private pump
wells. An attempt was made by the magistrates,
about 1774, to bring water into the city from White-
bill in pipes, but proved abortive. Another public
attempt of a similar kind was made in 1794, but also
failed. At length, in 1804, Mr. William Harley,
who had feued the lands of Willowbank, constructed
a reservoir in upper Nile-street, which he supplied
with spring water by pipes from the lands he had
feued, and dispensed it to the inhabitants by means
of huge cisterns placed on carriages, and which
were moved from street to street. The enterprise
of a single individual induced a number of the in-
habitants to form themselves into a company for
supplying the city with filtered water from the
Clyde. In 1806, they procured an act of parliament
erecting them into an incorporation by the name of
the Glasgow Water Company ; and shortly there-
after their works were established at Dalmarnock,
upon the Clyde, two miles above the city. In 1808,
another company was formed under the name of
the Cranstonhill Water Company, and similar par-
liamentary powers were also granted to them. For
a number of years these companies went on inde-
pendently; but they were subsequently amalga-
mated; and the united company went on from time
& a
GLASGOW.
770
GLASGOW.
to time, extending tlieir works to meet the increas-
ing demands of the city. The sum expended on
the works, till 1st June 1854, was £446,907 ; the
revenue of the company for that year was £41,862;
and the daily supply of water to the city was about
12,000,000 gallons. This quantity, however, was
insufficient, especially for the higher levels; while
the quality took irremediable damage from the
soluble impurities in the river, and had become in-
creasingly disagreeable to the public mind as a
knowledge of the laws of health had increased.
A company, under the name of the Gorbals Gra-
vitation Water- Works Company, obtained an act of
parliament in 1845, for bringing water to Gorbals
from a range of hills situated about 7 miles to the
south. The contributing surface is about 2,800
acres ; the storage has capacity for upwards of
150,000,000 cubic feet; the water, after being fil-
tered, is delivered in Gorbals on the principle of gra-
vitation, at a pressure of about 200 feet ; and the
daily supply amounts to about 3,300,000 gallons.
The Glasgow water company, in 1853, took a bill into
parliament for bringing water by gravitation from
Loch Lubnaig ; but this was defeated by the town
council on various grounds which it would be
tedious to specify. A bill was introduced next
year, by the town council, for acquiring the works of
the Glasgow and the Gorbals Gravitation companies,
and for bringing water by gravitation from Loch
Katrine ; and this, though strongly opposed in
various quarters, with the effect of being defeated
in 1854, was re-introduced in the following year,
and then passed. The works were so great as to
require considerable time for execution, but were
opened, with grand ceremony, in October 1859, by
Queen Victoria. They draw from a water surface of
about 4,000 acres, with a drainage-area of about 45,800
acres; and they yield at present about 17,000,000
gallons a-day, but are capable of yielding a much
larger quantity. The commencing orifice is 8 feet be-
neath the lake's surface, at a point of 2 J miles east of
Stronachlachlan ; a tunnel 8 feet high, 8 feet wide,
and 6,975 feet long, goes through the mountain to
Loch Chon ; and a series of works, comprising numer-
ous aqueducts, in some instances from 60 to 80 feet
high, 69 tunnels, aggregately 13 miles long, and
lines of syphons of well-protected iron pipes, 4 feet
in diameter, and aggregately also 13 miles long,
goes from Loch Chon, past Loch Ard, and across the
valley of the Endrick, to a collecting reservoir at
Mugdock in the vicinity of Strathblane. This
reservoir lies 311 feet above the level of the sea;
occupies 70 acres, with capacity for 500,000,000
gallons ; and has an ingenious combination of em-
bankments and sluices for retention and emission.
Two lines of pipes, each 3 feet in diameter, and re-
spectively 7 and 8 miles long, go thence to Glasgow;
and about 46 miles of new pipes were laid, for rami-
fied distribution, throughout the city. The cost of
the works of the Loch Katrine scheme till 28th May
1861, was £906,888; and that of the entire water-
works, including those of the two absorbed water-
companies, was £1,572,161.
Lighting. — Glasgow, like all other places, was
formerly dependent for night light on oil and candle.
Its first gas-light company was instituted in 1817 ;
and another followed in 1843. Lighting with gas
commenced in the streets on 15th September 1818,
and began immediately after to be introduced to
6hops, dwelling-houses, and factories. The quantity
of gas consumed was 173,000,000 cubic feet during
1840,-363,098,850 during 1851,— and 639,163,350
during 1861. The number of street-lamps lit with
gas was 3,301 in 1840,-7,358 in 1850,— and 8,383
in 1861. The number in the last of these years
comprised 2,247 public lamps and 612 private ones
in the Central police district, 1,207 public and 112
private in the Eastern district, 1,245 public and 148
private in the Southern district, 1,448 public and 145
private in the Western district, and 1,089 public and
130 private in the Northern district. The cost of
lighting, during 1861, was £10,238.
Paving and Sewerage. — The carriage-way of all
the principal thoroughfares is paved with granite or
greenstone cubes, — in many thoroughfares with the
cubes well squared and dressed; and the footpaths
in some parts are formed of gravel, dressed stone
cubes, or artificial asphalt, but, in most parts, in-
cluding all the principal streets, are formed of fine,
broad, sandstone flag. A sum of about £90,000 was
spent between 1856 and the close of 1861 in paving
the carriage-ways with square - dressed granite.
The cost of the footpaths is defrayed by the pro-
prietors of tenements, and may amount in the ag-
gregate to about £60,000 a-year. Sewers run
beneath nearly all the streets of both the compact
parts and the well-edificed outskirts of the city; and
the main sewers within the municipal boundary
have an aggregate length of 60 miles. No sewers
exist in the districts of Springburn, Westmuir, Park-
head, Camlachie, and Woodside, the only drainage
there being by surface water-courses ; nor, in con-
sequence of the difficulty of obtaining an outfall to
the Clyde without increasing the nuisance above
the weir, do any sewers exist in the districts of
Bridgeton and Mile-end. Measures, however, were
in progress in 1861 to improve the drainage of these
districts ; and in the meanwhile, excessive nuisance
there was prevented by the absence of the modern
water-closet system. Yet, from the enormous
amount of the city's drainage generally, from the
prodigious aggregate in it of the vilest feculence,
from the comparative smallness of the river's volume
of water to receive it, from the damming up of that
volume by the tides, and from the depth of the har-
bour and the navigable channel serving as a long
vast pool to retain the sediments, a constant nuisance
exists in the Clyde, for miles downward from
Hutchesontown bridge, so great as to make the river
itself, in a considerable degree, one vast open com-
mon sewer. Much discussion has occurred of late
years as to the practicability of some contrivance
for removing or abating this monster nuisance, but
as yet without any promising result.
Government.
City Corporation. — Glasgow, as has been already
stated, was erected by charter into a burgh of re •
gality, holding of the bishop, by William the Lion ;
and for centuries the town remained in the position
of a mere appanage of the ecclesiastical establish-
ment. By a charter from King James in 1450, up-
on some new concessions being made, it was de-
clared that the bishop and his successors should hold
the city as a burgh of regality, by paying yearly,
upon St. John's day, a red rose, if it should be
asked. Until 1604, frequent contentions occurred
in this, as in almost all the other towns of Scotland,
between the merchants' and trades' ranks, upon the
point of precedency ; but the matters in dispute, as
regards Glasgow, having been referred to the arbi-
tration of Sir George Elphinston of Blythswood, he
pronounced a decision which was termed the
" Letter of Guildry," and was afterwards confirmed
by act of parliament, denying the right of pre-
cedence as being vested in either, and assigning to
both a share in the magistracy. In 1691, William
and Mary, by charter, confirmed the privileges of
the citizens, and conferred on the magistrates and
council the power of electing their provost, and all
GLASGOW.
771
GLASGOW.
otlier officers, " as fully and freely as the city of
Edinburgh, or any other royal burgh." The cour-
tesy title of "my lord" and "the honourable" has
been assigned to the office of provost, or chief ma-
gistrate, since the revolution of 1G88; and, up till
1801, the executive of the town council consisted of
the lord provost, three bailies, the dean of guild, the
deacon-convener, and the treasurer. At that period,
two bailies were added, — one from the merchants'
and the other from the trades' ranks, making in all
5 bailies. Until the passing of the municipal reform
bill, the council was composed exclusively of mem-
bers from the merchants' and trades' houses, and
they were self-elected here as elsewhere ; but on
that measure becoming law, the royalty was divided
into 5 wards, which returned thirty members by
election ; and to these two ex-officio members were
added, viz., the dean of guild by the merchants'
house, and the deacon-convener by the trades' house.
An act was passed, in 1846, abolishing the burgh
jurisdictions of Gorbals, Gallon, and Anderston, an-
nexing these suburbs and others to the municipal
burgh of Glasgow, and providing that the council
should consist of 50 members, of whom 48 should
be elected by the £10 voters, in 16 wards; and 2
should bo returned as before by the merchants'
house and trades' house. The elected councillors
retain office for 3 years ; the dean of guild and dea-
con-convener are elected annually, but they are
generally re-elected for the second year. The coun-
cil chooses, out of its own members, the lord pro-
vost, eight bailies, and two river magistrates; and
two of the bailies administer justice daily in the
police courts, while the river magistrates adjudicate
on all matters connected with the police of the har-
bour and the Clyde. The patronage of the council
is very extensive; presents to nine of the city
churches, nominates all the masters of the High
Bchool, appoints the city registrars, disposes of
many bursaries, and appoints the town-clerks, the
city chamberlain, the burgh fiscal, and many otlier
officers having a yearly income of from £200 to
£1,200.
Revenues. — The income of the corporation, at one
period, was very small; but even in the worst of the
self-election times, it was managed with economy,
and generally exceeded the expenditure; and, in
the course of the city's increase in population and
wealth, it became great. It is derived chiefly from
feu duties and ground annuals, from bazaar dues
and rents, from the seat rents of the parish churches,
from assessments in lieu of petty customs abolished,
and from the rents of miscellaneous property. The
amount of it, in the year 1861, was £18,480 7s. 8d;
while the amount of ordinary expenditure in that
year was £15,457 17s. 0£d., of extraordinary ex-
penditure, £3,046 7s. 2d., and of debt, £64,098 19s.
7d. The corporation manage also the finances of
the parks and galleries, the market-trust, the upper
suspension-bridge, the registration of births, mar-
riages, and deaths, the burgh voters' act, the lands
valuation act, and the prisons' assessment; they
manage likewise, by a special committee, the affairs
of the water-trust; and either all or some of them,
along with other persons, manage also the finances
of the police establishment, the statute labour, the
bridge trust, the court-house commission, the county
prisons, the house of refuge, Hutcheson's hospital,
the Clyde navigation, Port Glasgow harbour, and
the Cumbrae lights. The entire revenue, including
all these, in 1861, was £398,938 12s. OJd.; the
ordinary expenditure, £370,146 19s. 9Jd. ; the ex-
traordinary expenditure, £60,547 5s. 5d. ; the debt,
£3,246,981 19s. lid. Either the corporation as
a whole, or certain members of it, control also
the financial affairs of numerous charities, be-
quests, bursaries, and schools, and of several road-
trusts.
Extinct Jurisdictions. — The three districts of Gor-
bals, Calton, and Anderston, prior to 1846, bad
burgh jurisdictions of their own, but were then an-
nexed to the municipal burgh of Glasgow, and have
from that time returned their proportion of members
to the city council. — Gorbals was originally subject
to the archbishop, but became subject, in 1647, to
the town council of Glasgow ; and its magistrates,
thence till 1832, were appointed by the council, but
from 1832 to 1846 were elected by the inhabitants
under provision of being afterwards approved by the
council. The original burgh of Gorbals comprised
only 13 acres, and still continues distinct in some
particulars, such as in the assessment for the poor;
but a large territory was annexed to it from the
circumjacent palish of Govan. — Calton was con-
stituted a burgh of barony by crown charter in
1817; and had a town-council consisting of a pro-
vost, three bailies, a treasurer, and eleven council-
lors, elected by burgesses, who became such on
payment of a fee of £2 2s. — Anderston was consti-
tuted a burgh of barony by crown charter in 1824;
and had a town-council of the same constitution as
that of Calton, — elected by proprietors or life-renters
of heritable subjects, and by tenants paying £20 or
upwards of annual rent.
Parliamentary Beprescntation. — At the period of
the Union, in 1707, Glasgow was a place of such
small consideration, that only the fourth part of a
member of parliament was allotted to it; and it
shared this for 125 years with Kutherglen, Kenfrew,
and Dumbarton. The reform-bill of 1832 enlarged
its boundaries for parliamentary representation so
far as to include the suburbs, and gave it a right to
send two members to parliament. The number of
parliamentary electors, or rather of enrolments of
electors, in 1856-7, was 18,1 18 ; in 1861-2, was 20,260.
But a recent decision had been given by the appeal
sheriff-court, that each elector's name should be
placed only once on the register ; and this would
cause a large deduction from the total number in
1862-3, by striking off double enrolments.
Merchants' and Trades' Houses. — The merchants'
house, which returns a member to the council, has
long heen, and is, a most influential body in the
city. It is entirely an open corporation; any gen-
tleman paying £10 of entry money being admissible
to the membership and privileges. The number of
members is fully 1,000; and their funds, which
amount to about £3,500 per annum, and are chiefly
expended in charity, are managed by a large board
of directors. The trades' house, which also returns a
member to the town-council, is a still more important
body,sofaraswealth and numbers are concerned. It
includes the corporations of hammermen, tailors, cor-
diners, maltmen, weavers, bakers, skinners, wrights,
coopers, fleshers, masons, gardeners, barbers, and
dyers; and has, in the aggregate, fully 3,000 mem-
bers. Its governing body has an annual income of
upwards of £2,500; and the 14 incorporations have
separate funds of their own, estimated aggregately
at about £200,000, and yielding an annual revenue
of nearly £8,500. Most of the revenue is expended
in charitable allowances to decayed members oi
their families, and in maintaining an excellent edu-
cational institution. The sum of £31,000 was be-
queathed to the merchants' house, and the sum of
£500 to the trades' house, by James Ewing, Esq., of
Strathleven, who died in 1853 ; and the former sum,
after deducting from it £1,000 toward the ordinary
fund of the house, was placed at interest for behoof
of decayed Glasgow merchants, and their widows,
GLASGOW.
772
GLASGOW
daughters, and sons. The merchants' and trades'
houses, in their corporate capacity, take a promi-
nent part in almost every measure affecting the city ;
and jointly they return the members of the impor-
tant tribunal called the dean of guild court.
Police. — Glasgow was protected, till the com-
mencement of the present century, by only the
"watch and ward" system. This was conducted
by what was called the civic guard, a force of
30 or mors householders, patrolling the streets at
night; and it was necessarily inefficient. Efforts
were made, at several times, to establish a regular
police; but, not proposing to give the rate-payers
any voice in the management of the funds, they
were distasteful to the inhabitants, and did not suc-
ceed. A bill at length passed parliament, in 1800,
creating an organised police establishment, and
vesting the management of it in popularly-elected
commissioners. A master of police was appointed
at a salary of £200, a clerk at £85, a treasurer at
.£80, three sergeants at £40 each, nine officers at
£30 each, and 68 watchmen at 10s. per week each.
The income, for the first year, from assessment,
street-manure, fines, and a contribution of £800 by
the corporation, was about £5,000 ; and this enabled
the commissioners, besides maintaining the force,
to give large attention to lighting and cleaning.
Several acts of parliament subsequent to 1800 im-
proved the establishment ; the act of 1846, amalga-
mating all the municipal and police jurisdictions in
the city and suburbs, gave it concentration and
great increase of strength ; and an act passed in
1862, thought by some to be too cumbrous and in-
tricate to admit of easy working, very largely aug-
mented its powers. The protective and detective
force, in 1861, amounted to 703 for the municipal
burgh, and 47 for the harbour and river; and was
governed by a superintendent for the whole, and six
assistant superintendents for the six divisions.
The costs of the harbour and river department are
defrayed by the Clyde Trust. The costs of the other
departments, in the year 1860-1, amounted to
£36,961 2s. 8d.; but were less £8,750 13s. 6d. re-
ceived from Government, and £4,471 18s. 5d. re-
ceived from fines; so that they amounted nett to
£23,738 10s. 9d. The salary of the superintendent
was £500 ; the salaries of the chief officers, includ-
ing that of the superintendent, amounted to £2,889
19s. lOd. ; the wages of the day and night con-
stables, to £29,851 12s. 2d.; the expenses of cloth-
ing for them, to £2,681 7s. Id.; and the expenses of
the detective department, to £1,538 3s. 7d. The
police commissioners consist of the lord provost, the
bailies, the dean of guild, and the deacon-convener,
ex-officiis, and eighteen councillors chosen by the
corporation ; and they manage all affairs of police,
as well the lighting and the cleaning as the protec-
tive and the detective, and also the affairs of the
statute labour. The entire revenue, exclusive of the
statute labour, in 1861, was £84,333 17s. lOd. ; the
ordinary expenditure, £82,961 0s. 3s. ; the extraor-
dinary expenditure, £1,672 17s. 7d.; the debt,
£3,697 13s. 8d. The revenue of the statute labour
was £24,197 8s; the expenditure, £40,897 5s. 2d.;
the debt, £106,534 17s. 2d.
Courts. — The police-courts, as already noted, are
held daily, and presided over by the bailies. No-
thing more needs to be said respecting them, ex-
cept to give a summary of the offences yearly on
which they have adjudicated; and this will be
given afterwards, under the head of Statistics. — The
bailie court, under the original burgh jurisdiction,
as distinguished from the police jurisdiction, for-
merly tried important civil causes, and also tried
similar cases of graver kinds than are competent to
the police courts ; but now it tries chiefly such civil
matters as the awarding of aliment to debtor pri-
soners, questions under the fishery act, and ques-
tions under the statute relative to weights and mea-
sures, and rarely if ever tries any of the graver
criminal cases. It adjudicated, in 1861, on ,37 cases
under the fishery act, and on 122 applications for
the benefit of the act of grace. — The dean of guild
court controls matters relative to buildings within
the city, and matters under the smoke act. The
number of cases before it, in 1861, was 284. — Jus-
tice of peace courts are held weekly, on Tuesday
and Friday for small debt claims, and on Monday
and Thursday for police offences and other offences
under special statutes. About 92 acting justices of
peace for the county reside in Glasgow or its
neighbourhood; and two of them in rotation, for
one week, preside in the courts. The number of
small debt claims before these courts, in 1861, was
13,298; of prosecutions for assault and other of-
fences, 317; of applications for public-house certifi-
cates, granted or renewed, 265; of other cases, 264.
— Courts of quarter sessions, for hearing and deter-
mining appeals, are held on the first Tuesday of
March, May, and August, and the last Tuesday of
October, and on any other days to which there may
be adjournments. The appeals before them, rela-
tive to public-house certificates, in 1861, were 17
from the justices and 65 from the bailies. — Three
ordinary sheriff civil courts, two appeal sheriff civil
courts, and three sheriff small debt courts are held
every week; and sheriff criminal courts with jury
are held very frequently. These courts are con-
ducted by a sheriff principal, and four sheriff substi-
tutes; and they manage most of the cases which
would formerly have gone into the bailie burgh
court. The number of ordinary and summary ac-
tions before them, in 1861, was 1,514; of criminal
cases tried with a jury, 263 ; of criminal cases sum-
marily tried, 61 ; of cases of sequestration, 182; of
eases of trusteeship, 51 ; of small debt actions,
23,788; and of miscellaneous cases, relating to pau-
perism, lunacy, and other matters, very many. —
Circuit courts, by the judges, are held thrice
a-year.
Assessments. — The local assessments are rated on
the rental, and fall variously on the occupant and
the landlord. The rental of the extended munici-
pality, inl850,was£l,017,362; in 1854, £1,167,842;
in 1861, exclusive of railways and canals, £1,629,964.
The police rate, in 1861, was 6id. per £1 on rentals
under £10, and Is. Id. on rentals above £10, all
payable by the occupant; the street paving rate,
3d., by the occupant; the public parks and gallery
of art, 2d., by the occupant; the court-houses and
public offices for the lower ward of Lanarkshire, Jd.
by the occupant, and |d. by the landlord ; prisons,
valuation of lands, registration of voters, and regis-
tration of births, deaths, and marriages, aggregately
Id. by the occupant and Id. by the landlord; public
water rate, Id. by the landlord; houses of refuge,
Id., by the occupant; and poor-rates, in the city
parish, on four-fifths of the rental, Is. 6d., — in Bar-
ony parish, Is. ljd., — in Govan parish, on seven-
eighths of the rental, 8§d.j — in Gorbals parish, on
nine-tenths of the rental, 2s. 4|d., —one-half by
the occupant, the other half by the landlord. The
total of the assessments on houses about £10 of an-
nual rent, in the city parish, was 2s. 5Jd. to the
occupant and lljd. to the landlord; in the Barony
paiish, 2s. 3,^d. to the occupant and 9^d. to the
landlord ; in Govan parish, 2s. 7d. to the occupant
and 6fd. to the landlord; in Gorbals parish, 2s.
10|d. to the occupant and Is. 4fd. to the land'
lord.
GLASGOW.
773
GLASGOW.
Institutions,
The University. — The university of Glasgow was
instituted in 1450, ami opened in 1451. It sprang
from a bull of l'ope Nicholas V., obtained by Bishop
William Turnbull, at the request of James II. It
had a broad margin as a general school in arts, in
theology, and in canon and civil law, with power of
granting degrees; it was constituted, as nearly as
possible, on the model of the university of Bologna;
and it received exemption, by royal charter, from
taxation, the duty of " watch and ward," and other
civil burdens. Yet, for a time, it was both poor and
small. It had no property except some fees on
confirming degrees, and the patronage of a few
chaplainries; nor had it any buildings for its lec-
tures and other business, but conducted these partly
in a house of Rotten-row, long known as the Old
Pedagogy, partly in the neighbouring monastery of
Blackfriars, and partly in the chapter-house and
crypt of the Cathedral. In 1460, however, the first
Lord Hamilton, ancestor of the present ducal house
of that name, gave to its faculty of arts a tenement
in High-street, on the ground occupied by the pre-
sent college buildings, together with four acres of
land in the Dowhill, adjoining the Molindinar burn,
which long afterwards bore the designation of the
land of Pedagogy. In the body of the conveyance,
the noble donor exacted certain oaths and obliga-
tions to be taken by the principal and regents, on
their first admission, and ordained that he himself,
and Lady Euphemia, his spouse, should be comme-
morated as the founders of the college. This gift
soon received many additions. The faculties of
theology and civil and canon law were not in pos-
session of property, like the faculty of arts; but
this was compensated by rich livings held by the
regents in every part of the kingdom.
From the members of the University being of the
Roman Catholic persuasion, and the institution re-
ceiving its chief support from the church, it met
with an almost fatal blow by the Reformation, The
chancellor, James Beaton, fled to the continent, and
carried with him the plate of the Cathedral, with
the bulls, charter, and deeds, both of the see and
the University. It is true that the college of arts
survived the shock, but in such a shattered state,
that in a charter of Queen Mary, it is stated that
"it appearit rather to be the decay of ane univer-
sity, nor ony ways to he rccUonit ane established
foundation." By this charter, 5 bursaries were
founded for poor youths, and the manse and church
of the friars predicates, 13 acres of laud adjoining,
and several rents and annuities which had belonged
to the friars, were granted to the masters of the
University for their sustentation. The institution,
however, rather languished than lived for many
subsequent years, till in 1577, James VI., when in
his minority, by advice of the regent Morton,
framed a new constitution, and made a very con-
siderable grant to the revenues, consisting of the
rectory and vicarage of the parish of Govan. Pri-
vate individuals also increased the emoluments of
the University; and it continued to prosper till the
period of the Restoration, at which time it had a
principal, eight professors, a librarian, a good libra-
ly, many bursaries, and a vast increase in the num-
ber of its students. The buildings, which bad be-
come ruinous, were in progress of being rebuilt, when
the University received a second severe shock by
the forcible establishment of Episcopacy subsequent
to the restoration of Charles II., which at once de-
prived it of the fairest portion of its revenue — the
bishopric of Galloway. From this reverse a large
debt was contracted, and it was found necessary to
reduce three out of the eight professorships, and
considerably abridge the emoluments of those who
remained. The University, indeed, continued to
receive considerable benefactions; but these were
principally confined to the foundation of new bur-
saries or grants for carrying on the buildings; and
it was not till 1693, when all the Scottish universi-
ties received a grant of £300 per annum out of the
bishop's rents, that it began to revive from the de-
pression in which it had so long remained. In
1702, the students in theology, Greek, and phi-
losophy had increased to 402 ; and from that period
till the present day the University has not sustain-
ed a single reverse. Many liberal donations, both
from the Crown and from private individuals, have
been received; eighteen new professorships have
been founded; and various beneficial new regula-
tions, introduced by royal commissions or visita-
tions, have, from time to time, been made. The
last and greatest of the changes has resulted from
the commission under the Universities act of 1858;
and this alone, besides materially improving the
University's constitution, has increased its revenues
to the amount of £1,661 a-year, and given it three
new professorships and seven assistantships.
The recent change on the University's constitu-
tion will be understood from what we have said on
the universities collectively in our General Intro-
duction. The ruling bodies now are the general
council, the university court, and the senatus aca-
demicus; and the chief officers are a chancellor,
chosen by the general council, a lord rector, chosen
by the matriculated students, a principal, appointed
by the Crown, a dean of faculties, appointed by the
senatus academicus, and four assessors, chosen by
respectively the chancellor, the lord rector, the gen
era! council, and the senatus academicus. The
general council meets twice a-year, on the Wed-
nesdays immediately prior to the opening and the
closing of the session. The university court con-
sists of the lord rector, the principal, the dean of
faculties, and the four assessors. The senatus aca-
demicus consists of the principal and the professors.
The chancellor was formerly elected by the senatus
academicus; and he began in 1692, and will still
continue, to be elected for life. The office is more
one of dignity and honour than one of any actual
service; and it has long been held by the Dukes of
Montrose. The lord rector was formerly elected for
only one year, though usually re-elected for the
second year, but he and his assessor now remain in
office three years; and the other assessors remain
four. He is elected by a majority of four votes of
the students, divided into four sections; or if the
vote should be equal, two against two, he is ap-
pointed by the casting vote of the previous rector.
The sections of the students are called nations, and
are, — Natio Gloltiani sive Cbjdesdalice, which com-
prehends the natives of Lanarkshire, Renfrew, and
Dumbarton, from Errickstane, the source of the
Clyde, to Dumbarton; — Natio Albania?, swe Trans-
forthana, containing all the country north of the
Forth, and all foreigners: — Natio Loudcmiana site
Thevidalice, including the Lothians, Stirling, the
towns east of the water of Urr, and the members
from England and the British Colonies; and Natio
Bothseiana, including Ayrshire, Galloway, Argyle,
the Western Isles, Lennox, and Ireland. The lord
rector may be regarded as the chief magistrate of
the University; he originally had such large juris-
diction as, in one instance so late as 1670, to try a
case on a charge of murder ; and he still possesses
considerable powers. He and the dean of faculties
were formerly superintending visitors of the col-
lege, but ceased to be so under the recent act. His
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GLASGOW
election occasions much excitement, and is gener-
ally the result of a political struggle. The office
has been filled, since 1820, by Lord Jeffrey, Sir
James Macintosh, Lord Brougham, Thomas Camp-
bell, the Marquis of Lansdowne, Lord Cockburn, the
Earl of Derby, Sir Robert Peel, Sir James Graham,
the Marquis of Breadalbane, the Earl of Dalhousie,
Lord Rutherford, Earl Russell, William Mail-,
Esq. of Caldwell, Lord Mncaulay, Sir Archibald
Alison, Bart., the Earl of Eglinton, the Duke
of Argyle, Sir E. B. Lytton, Bart., the Earl of
Elgin, and Viscount Palmerston. The dean of
faculties was formerly, as now, elected by the
senatus academicus. His duties, as originally con-
stituted, were to give directions respecting the
course of study, and to judge, with the other prin-
cipal officers, of the qualifications of the applicants
for degrees. The principal formerly required to be
a minister of the Church of Scotland, and was no-
minally the primarius professor of divinity; but,
under the new act, he may be a layman, and is not
regarded as occupying a theological chair.
The professorships of the university are classified
into the four faculties of arts, divinity, law, and
medicine. The professors of the arts were formerly
called regents, while the rest were non-regents;
and those occupying the eight chairs, instituted be-
fore the commencement of the present century, were
called college professors, while the others were
called regius professors; and the former had larger
powers than the latter; but, under the new act,
these distinctions have ceased. The number of pro-
fessorships at present is twenty-five; the latest law
one is in the patronage of the faculty of procuration
of Glasgow, the eight oldest in that of the university
court, the others in that of the Crown ; and the
emoluments of all, including estimated amounts of
fees, were re-adjusted by ordinance of the University
commissioners in November 1SG1. The chairs, with
their respective dates and emoluments, are, — logic
and rhetoric, 1577, £738 4s. 5d; moral philosophy.
1577, £618 4s. 3d; natural philosophy, 1577, £008
4s. 5d. ; Greek, 1581, £969 8s. 10d.; humanity, 1637,
£969 8s. 10d.; mathematics, 1691, £662; practical
astronomy, 1760, £270; civil engineering and me-
chanics, 1840, £325; English language and litera-
ture, 1861, £400; divinity, 1630, £600; Oriental
languages, 1709, £430; ecclesiastical history, 1720,
£402 15s. 6d.; divinity and biblical criticism, 1861,
£436; Roman law and law of Scotland, 1713, £540;
conveyancing, 1861, £150, together with fees ; prac-
tice of medicine, 1713, £410; anatomy, 1718, £750;
natural history, 1807, £300; surgery, 1815, £320;
midwifery, 1815, £230; chemistry, 1817, £620; bo-
tany, 1818, £400; materia medica, 1831, £270; in-
stitutes of medicine, 1839, £310; forensic medicine,
1839, £210. The principal's salary is £700. As-
sistants to the natural philosophy, the Greek, the
humanity, the mathematics, and the chemistry
chairs were appointed under the new act, each at a
salary of £100 ; and an assistant to the chair of ma-
teria medica, at a salary of £50. The session opens
on the first Monday of November, and closes on the
last day of April. The number of matriculated
students, in 1861, was 1,133; of members of the
general council, 854 ; of persons who graduated, 1 14.
The students are divided into togati and non-to-
gati ; and the former wear a scarlet gown, and be-
long to the logic, moral philosophy, natural philo-
sophy, Greek, and humanity classes. There are 29
foundation burseries, for 65 students, held from 4 to
6 years. One of them amounts to £50 a-year; but
most range from £5 10s. to £41. There are also
some valuable exhibitions. In 1688, Mr. John
Snell, with a view to support episcopacy in Scot-
land, devised to trustees the estate of Uffton, neai
Leamington, in Warwickshire, for educating Scotch
students, from the University of Glasgow, at Baliol
college, Oxford. This fund now affords £132 per
annum to each often exhibitions. Another founda-
tion by Warner, bishop of Rochester, of £15 annu-
ally to each of four students, from the same college,
is generally given to the Snell exhibitioners, so that
four of them have nearly £150 per annum each.
Both of the exhibitions are held for ten years; but
are vacated by marriage, or upon receiving a certain
degree of preferment. The principal and professors
of the college are the patrons of Snell's exhibition;
and the archbishop of Canterbury and the bishop of
Rochester, of Warner's. In addition to these bur-
saries and exhibitions, there are various valuable
prizes granted annually or biennially from funds
which have been mortified for the purpose. Among
distinguished men who have studied or taught here
have been Bishop Elphinstone, John Major, John
Spottiswoode, Andrew Melville, James Melville,
Robert Boyd, John Cameron, Zachary Boyd, Robert
Baillie, James Dalrymple, first Viscount of Stair,
Bishop Gilbert Burnet, Bishop John Douglas, Dr.
Robert Simpson, Francis Hutchison, Dr. William
Hunter, Dr. Thomas Reid, Dr. James Moor, Dr.
Adam Smith, Dr. William Cullen, Dr. Joseph Black,
Dr. Matthew Baillie, Professor John Millar, Pro-
fessor Young, Professor Wilson, Lord Jeffrey,
John Gibson Lockhart, Sir Daniel Sandford, and Sir
William Hamilton.
The university library was founded in the 15th
century, and now contains about 80,000 volumes.
The Hunterian museum was founded by Dr. William
Hunter, a native of East Kilbride, who died in 1783;
and contains a small gallery of pictures by the old
masters, a splendid collection of objects in natural
history and anatomy, and an interesting collection
of rare books, manuscripts, coins, medals, antiquities,
and curiosities. Its entile contents are supposed to
be worth upwards of £130,000; and so much of them
as was valued at £65,000, together with a sum of
£8,000 for the election of a suitable building, was
bequeathed by Dr. Hunter. The museum is open
to any visitor for a shilling, but the coins and
medals are shown only in the presence of two pro-
fessors. The university library contains a manu-
script paraphrase of the Bible by Zachary Boyd, and
some other literary curiosities; and the Hunterian
museum contains an illuminated manuscript Psalter,
of the 12th century, a manuscript of Boethius, of the
14th century, and a breviary, ten books of Livy,
and a French translation of Boccaccio of the 15th
century.
The university buildings are situated on the
east side of High-street. They belong to various
periods; but the older portions were erected between
the years 1632 and 1650, and are in the peculiar style
of Scottish renaissance which then prevailed. The
front is 305 feet in extent; presents a monastic
appearance, with grand archway, stone balcony,
and dormer windows; and has, over the great en-
trance, the royal arms of the time of Charles II.
The interior, exclusive of the professors' buildings,
is disposed in three successive quadrangles. The
first quadrangle is all old, and has at one corner a
massive stone staircase, leading up to a large panel-
led hall, used for business meetings, and containing
a few portraits. The second quadrangle is entered
by an archway beneath a steeple 148 feet high ; and
consists partly of old buildings, partly of modern
ones, incongruously amassed. The steeple shows
no elegance of structure, but possesses interest from
a thunder rod erected on it, in 1772, under the aus-
pices of Dr. Franklin. The third quadrangle is, in
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775
GLASGOW.
considerable parts, unedificed, — being divided there
from the eollege park only by railings; but it has,
between the open parts, the edifice of the Hunterian
museum, a handsome structure of 1804, adorned in
front with a hexastyle Roman-Doric portico. Two
quadrangles at the sides, with separate entrance
from High-street, are edificed with thirteen dwell-
ings of professors. The college park spreads away
to the east; lias pleasant walks, shaded with trees;
is used for the recreation of the students ; and
figures in Sir Walter Scott's novel of " Bob Roy,"
as the scene of the duel between Francis and Rash-
leigh Osbaldistone.
Anderson's University. — An institution for the
promotion of scientific knowledge arose from a be-
quest of Dr. John Anderson, professor of natural
philosophy in Glasgow university, who died in
January 1796. The funds bequeathed by him were
not sufficient for it; but contributions were added
by many citizens of Glasgow, and other friends of
science; and the chief objects he had in view were
gained. The institution was incorporated in Jnne
1796, by seal of cause from the magistrates and
council of the city ; and was set to work, on a small
scale, in the same year. It long was located in
confined premises in John-street, but eventually
was removed to a commodious edifice, originally the
Grammar-school, in George-street. In 1796, Dr.
Garnett was elected to it as professor of natural
philosophy; and he continued there till his removal
to London. In 1798, a class was formed for in-
struction in mathematics and geography. In 1799,
Dr. Birkbeck was appointed professor of natural
philosophy. In February, 1800, under the auspices
of Dr. Birkbeck, a class was instituted expressly for
mechanics, being the first of the kind it is believed
ever established, and the forerunner of Mechanics'
Institutions in this country. Dr. Anderson himself
had for many years given a separate course of experi-
mental physics, to which he had been in the habit of
inviting tradesmen and mechanics; and there can be
little doubt that he intended that facilities for im-
provement should be afforded to these classes in the
new seminary, having directed in his will that the
system of instruction which he had begun should be
continued. Dr. Birkbeck, however, is not the less
entitled to the credit and honour of having called
into existence the first class exclusively for me-
chanics, and of thus extending the advantages of
scientific instruction to those who had no other op-
portunity of acquiring it. The class was taught the
first season gratuitously, and afterwards at a very
moderate rate of admission. In 1804, Dr. Andrew
Ure succeeded Dr. Birkbeck, who removed to Lon-
don. Dr. Ure continued the progressive improve-
ment of the institution by the introduction of a
valuable course of lectures on chemistry and phar-
macy. In 1808, at the suggestion, and under the
auspices of Dr. Ure, the institution received a most
important addition to its usefulness by the establish-
ment of a library for the use of the mechanics and
evening classes. In 1828, on the removal of the in-
stitution to the premises in George-street, it as-
sumed the title bestowed on it by the venerable
founder, of " Anderson's University ; " and to justify
that appellation, there were then established a num-
ber of new professorships for instruction in science
and the useful arts; and in particular, there was
arranged a complete course of lectures and demon-
strations in medical science, a branch of knowledge
to which great attention has ever since been paid.
In 1829, the resources of the institution were in-
creased by a donation from the late James Yeats,
Esquire, of a fifth part of the rents of the island of
Shuna. In 1830, on the resignation of Dr. Ure,
Professor Thomas Graham, afterwards of University
College, London, was appointed to the chair o(
chemistry, and introduced a new feature of great
importance, in the shape of laboratory instructions.
In 1837, on the removal of Mr. Graham to London,
Dr. Gregory, afterwards professor of chemistry in
the college of Edinburgh, was appointed to the
chair of chemistry, and on bis removal to Edin-
burgh, lie was succeeded in the chair by D. Fre-
derick Penny. An unbroken succession of very
distinguished men lias thus shed celebrity over
the institution's departments of physics and che-
mistry; and some men of high mark have, at
the same time, given eclat to its other depart-
ments.
The institution now offers to the public a com-
plete course of education in three sets : — 1 Day-
classes, scientific and literary, for natural philosophy,
chemistry, mathematics, algebra, arithmetic, geo-
graphy, astronomy, commercial law, writing, book-
keeping, drawing, painting, French, German, and
English ; — 2. Medical classes, for surgery, anatomy,
materia medica, institutes of medicine, practice of
medicine, midwifery, medical jurisprudence and
police, natural philosophy, chemistry, and botany ;
— 3. Popular evening classes, for natural philosophy,
chemistry, anatomy, physiology, mathematics, writ-
ing, French, and German. The average number of
students is about 1,400; but a large proportion of
this belongs to the evening classes. The institu-
tion has an extensive museum of natural history,
antiquities and curiosities ; and this is open to the
public every day, from 11 till 3. Upwards of 3,000
persons visited the museum on the Fair holidays of
1861 ; and about the same number on the Christmas
holidays.
Botanic Gardens. — A small piece of ground ad-
joining the university, east of High-street, was set
apart, in the 18th century, as a botanic garden ;
but it soon became unsuitable, in consequence of
the erection of manufactories in its neighbourhood.
A new and more spacious garden was formed at
Sauchiehall-road, then completely rural ; but this
was eventually overtaken and displaced by the ex-
tension of the city to the west. A grand and still
larger garden was then, about 1842, formed on
tumulated tabular ground, skirted by a steep de-
clivity to the Kelvin, 800 yards west of the point
at which that river is crossed by the Great Western
road. This garden comprises 6J acres; is beautifully
laid out in plots and walks ; includes romantic foot-
paths going down the declivity in transverses to
the Kelvin ; contains a class-room for the professor
of botany, and good suites of conservatories and
hothouses ; and gives to view, in scientific arrange-
ment, or in scientific nomenclature, about 15,000
species of plants. Promenades are held in it on
stated days in summer ; and the operative classes
are admitted to it for a penny on Saturdays, and
without charge on the week of Glasgow fair, in
virtue of a gift of £500 from Mr. Campbell of
Tilliechewan. The number of persons who visited it
in the " free week" of 1861 was 17,344.
Observatory. — An observatory formerly stood on
Garnet hill, but, like the Sauchiehall-road botanic
garden, was overtaken and displaced by the street-
extensions to the west. A new and splendid ob-
servatory was erected on a commanding eminence,
a short distance south-west of the present Botanic
garden; and this has very valuable instruments,
and includes a residence for the professor of astrono-
my. The late professor, Dr. Nicliol, shed lustre over
it by his writings.
Schools of Art. — The Government school of art,
on the north side of the eastern part of Ingram-
GLASGOW.
776
GLASGOW.
street, is a most useful and flourishing institution ;
and has conferred great benefit on the manufactures
of Glasgow. The session opens on the 1st of Sep-
tember, and continues till the 30th of June. — The
Glasgow institution in union with the society of
arts in London, is managed by a body of directors,
affords systematic, scientific, literary, and practical
instruction, on self-supporting principles, to opera-
tives, persons in business, and their children, and
has morning, day, and evening classes, and separate
classes for females. The branches taught in it are
chemistry, mathematics, astronomy, geography,
navigation, practical mechanics, political economy,
logic, elocution, phonography, drawing, music,
Latin, Greek, Hebrew, French, German, Gaelic,
English, writing, arithmetic, book - keeping, and
needlework.
Mechanics' Institutions. — The Glasgow Mechanics'
Institution was founded in 1823, and incorporated
by seal of cause. A neat and commodious building
for it, with a colossal statue of James Watt in front,
was erected in North Hanover-street in 1831 ; and
a new, larger, and very ornamental edifice in lieu
of this, was erected in Bath-street in 1860. The
institution is managed by a committee ; has a read-
ing-room, and a well-selected library of about 7,000
volumes; and maintains lectures and classes in
natural philosophy, chemistry, physiology, mathe-
matics, drawing, music, Latin, Greek, French, Ger-
man, Spanish, geography, English composition,
writing, arithmetic, and book-keeping. — The Cow-
caddens mechanics' institution has a reading-room,
a reference library, and a circulating library, of up-
wards of 3,000 volumes, and maintains courses of
lectures on subjects of popular instruction. — There
is also a mechanics' institution of Calton and
Bridgeton.
High School and Academy. — The High school,
formerly called the Grammar school, was founded
in the 12th century, and is managed by a committee
of the town council. The large edifice in George-
street, between John-street and Montrose-street.
now occupied by Anderson's university, was built
for it ; and its present edifice, situated on the ascent
behind the former, with a spacious playground be-
tween, was erected in 1819, and is a plain structure
120 feet long and 28 feet wide. The masters, seven
in number, are appointed by the town council, and
have handsome incomes from fees, and a salary,
rarely exceeding £50, from the corporation funds.
The course of tuition embraces five classes in the
classics, one in French and German, one in gram-
mar, composition, elocution, and history, one in
arithmetic, geography, mathematics, and natural
philosophy, one in writing and book-keeping, and
one in drawing and painting. The number of pupils
is upwards of 500. The session begins on the 1st
of October, and continues till the 31st of May. —
Glasgow Academy was established in 1846, and is
managed by a body of directors. The building for
it is a large ornamental structure ill Elmbank-place.
The departments taught in it are classics by the
rector, a master, and an assistant, French and Ger-
man by a master, English by a master and two
assistants, mathematics by a master and two assist-
ants, writing and book-keeping by a master and an
assistant, and drawing, gymnastics, vocal music,
and dancing, each by a master, — Several large aca-
demies, generally formed on the English model, for
supplementing the education of the children of the
higher classes, are in the western districts ; and
large schools of various kinds, for the education of
the children of the humbler classes, are in all parts
of the city.
Normal Schools. — The Normal institution in con-
nexion with the Church of Scotland, for training
teachers and giving rudimental education to chil-
dren, was formed in 1827, and is the parent institu-
tion of its kind in the kingdom. The building for
it stands at the east end of the New City road, ad-
jacent to Cowcaddens; was erected in 1827, after
designs by Messrs. Hamilton, at a cost of £15,000 ;
has a central front 128 feet long, with two retiring
wings, each 110 feet deep; and is surmounted, at the
centre, by a tower rising 45 feet above the roof.
The training department or students' hall, includes
religious knowledge, principles of teaching, history,
geography, mathematics, physical science, music,
drawing, and needlework, and is conducted by six
masters and a mistress; and the practising depart-
ment, or children's school, comprises infant, initia-
tory, junior, and senior classes, music, drawing, and
needlework, and is conducted also by six masters
and a mistress. — The Normal seminary, in connexion
with the Free church, was founded immediately
after the Free church's formation ; and is of similar
character to the former institution, but includes in-
struction in classics, French, German, and gymnas-
tics. The building for it stands in Cowcaddens,
1^ furlong east of the other institution, and is a large
edifice in a mixed style of Gothic and Tudor, built
in 1846, at a cost of £8,000.
Hutcheson's Hospital. — The most magnificent
charity established by private benevolence in Glas-
gow, and similar to Heriot's Hospital in Edinburgh,
excepting that it does not make monks of the school
boys, is that founded by two brothers, George and
Thomas Hutcheson, in 1639-41. The original be-
quest was a tenement of laud, barn, and yard,
and ground whereon to build an hospital, with
68,700 nierks, or £3,816 13s. 4d. sterling. The sum
mortified was at first intended for the support of 12
old men and 12 hoys; but by the judicious purchase
of land, which has become exceedingly valuable as
feuing ground, and by the addition of other mortifi-
cations, such as Scott's, Baxter's, and Hood's, the
sum now at the disposal of the patrons amounts to
nearly £5,000 per annum. This revenue is appro-
priated towards the support of old men and women,
and the educating and clothing of the sons of decayed
citizens. The affairs of the charity are managed
by the town council and the parish ministers. The
hospital stands at the corner of John-street and
Ingram-street, confronting Hutcheson-street ; was
erected in 1803, after a design by D. Hamilton, at
a cost of £5,201 ; is a fine edifice, with rusticated
basement and Corinthian superstructure, sur-
mounted by an octagonal spire 156 feet high; and
has, in niches on its front, decently executed busts
of the brothers Hutcheson. No part of it is occu-
pied as either school or boarding-place. The prin-
cipal apartment was formerly used for Stirling's
library, and is now used as the clearing-room of the
Glasgow banks; and the other apartments also are
let for commercial purposes. The school-buildings
stand in Crown-street, Hutchesontown ; are neat
and spacious ; and were erected in 1841, at a cost
of £4,236, exclusive of the value of the site, which
was estimated at £1,057.
Millar's School.— An institution for educating and
clothing girls was founded by Archibald Millar in
1790, and opened in 1806. The house stands in
George-street, between Montrose-street and Port-
land-street, and is a plain but pleasing edifice. The
charity is governed by the principal and divinity
professor of the University, the ten city ministers,
and ten elders from the ten kirk sessions. The girls
must be of reputable parents, and under the care ol
reputable persons, are admitted only at an age be-
tween eight and nine, and remain for three years.
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GLASGOW.
The number for some time was about 30, but now
is 75.
Other Public Schools. — The Trades' school adjoins
tlie Trades' hall, was founded in 1808, is maintained
and managed by the Trades' house, and has a head-
master and three assistant teachers. — Wilson's
charity school, in George-street, is governed by the
magistrates, the ministers, and a number of other
gentlemen, and has an English master, and a music
master. — The Highland Society's academy stands
near the High school; was instituted for educating,
clothing, and apprenticing sons of indigent High-
landers; includes also a sewing school for girls; is
maintained from a revenue of about £1,300 a-year ;
and has a head-master, a junior master, and a
music master. — The Buchanan institution sprang
from a bequest of J. Buchanan, for the education
and industrial training of destitute boys; affords
them instruction in reading, writing, arithmetic,
and the elements of navigation, gymnastics, tailor-
ing, shoe-making, and carpentering; and while not
providing them with lodging, gives them three
substantial meals daily at the school. — The Max-
well school sprang from a bequest of several thou-
sand pounds, by Mrs. Blackhurst of Preston, for
giving an education to poor children ; is under the
trusteeship of the magistrates and two ministers ;
and excludes the use of the Shorter Catechism or
the application of any religious test. — The Indus-
trial schools, in a new edifice in the old Scottish
style in Rotten-row, are of the kind popularly called
ragged schools, and provide food, education, religious
instruction, and industrial training for destitute and
neglected children of both sexes, whether admitted
uu private application or sent under a magistrate's
warrant, charged with begging and vagrancy. The
number on the roll at the elose of 1861 was 134 boys
and 74 girls.
Athenozum. — The old Assembly rooms, now oc-
cupied by the Athenaeum, on the north side of In-
gram-street, between Hanover-street and Frederick-
street, were erected in 1790 and 1807, partly after
designs by Henry Holland. The edifice has a heavy
Ionic centre, with two lighter wings; and contains
a reading-room, well supplied with newspapers and
periodicals, and a continually increasing library,
with at present upwards of 9,000 volumes. The
Athenaeum was instituted in 1847 ; and is designed
to furnish the fullest and most recent information
on all subjects of general interest — 'o excite, es-
pecially among young men, a taste for intellectual
pursuits — and to afford an agreeable place of resort
in the intervals of business. Life members pay
£15 15s. ; subscribers pay 25s. a-year; and strangers
have free access for a fortnight, on introduction by
a member.
Public Libraries. — The Glasgow public library,
formerly in George-street, now in Bath-street, con-
tained a large and choice collection of books so long
ago as 1828, or some years earlier, and has regular-
ly continued to make additions to its treasures.
Subscribers to it pay a small amount of entry
money, and 12s. of yearly subscription. — Stirling's
library, formerly in tiie hall of Hutcheson's hospital,
now at 48 Millar-street, was founded in 1791 by
Walter Stirling, a Glasgow merchant; has received
many valuable accessions from various donors; and
now contains about 20,000 volumes. The public
have free access to it daily, for consulting the books;
and individuals get loans from it, for a life subscrip-
tion of £5 os., or for a yearly subscription of 10s. 6d.
Scientific Societies. — The Philosophical Society
was founded in 1802, for discussing subjects con-
nected with the arts and the sciences, and for the
exhibition of models and new inventions. It re-
ceives regularly upwards of 40 scientific periodicals,
English, French, and German ; and has a library,
comprising upwards of 3,300 volumes, in the various
departments of science. Its members amount, at
present, to about 300, and they meet fortnightly in
a hall of the Andersonian University, and publish
fortnightly their proceedings. — The Natural History
Soeiety was instituted in 1851, lor encouraging the
pursuit of natural history and cognate sciences. It
meets monthly in the library of the Andersonian
university; cultivates the exhibition of specimens,
and the reading of communications ; and promotes
excursions of its members for conjoint observation
and mutual improvement. — The Glasgow Archaeo-
logical Society was instituted in 1856, for the objects
indicated by its title; and meets monthly from
November till March. — The Glasgow Architectural
Society was instituted for the advancement of the
art and science of architecture. — The Institution of
Engineers in Scotland meets monthly or oftener,
during winter, in the Mechanics' Institution for the
reading and discussing of papers.
Literary Societies. — The Maitland Club was insti-
tuted in 1828, for printing manuscripts and rare
works illustrative of the early history, antiquities,
and literature of Scotland. It was originally limited
to 50 members, but was afterwards extended to 100.
Upwards of 100 volumes quarto were published by
it prior to 1862. — The Literary and Commercial
Soeiety holds fortnightly meetings, from the middle
of November till the end of April, for the reading of
essays, by its members, on subjects connected with
literature, philosophy, political economy, and com-
merce.— The Juridical Society was instituted in
1847; meets weekly, during session, in the Sheriff
Court hall; and promotes discussion and inquiry on
subjects chiefly legal but partly literary. — The
Legal and Speculative Soeiety was instituted in
1852 ; meets weekly, from October till May, in the
Procurator's hall; and promotes conjointly legal
knowledge, literary taste, and fluent elocution.
Asylum for the Blind. — This institution was
founded by John Leitch, Esq., a citizen of Glasgow,
who had suffered injury of sight, and who bequeathed
£5,000 toward commencing and maintaining the in-
stitution. _ The buildings for it, however, were
erected by voluntary subscription in 1827-8. They
are situated near the Loyal Infirmary; and they
include, in addition to a school, a large manufactory
for the making of baskets, cordage, sacking, and
other articles. A warehouse, in connexion with the
manufactory, for the sale of its produce, is in Glass-
ford-street. The late John Alston, Esq., spent many
years in watching over the institution with a fathers
care; many benevolent individuals have helped it
with legacies and contributions ; and a considerable
portion of the public currently give it aid by the
purchase of its manufactures. The blind are taught
in it, by means of contrivances which were first
brought in by Mr. Alston, the knowledge of read-
ing, writing, arithmetic, geography, geometry, and
astronomy; they are also trained, in departments,
to perform the work of its manufactory; and they
do that work so well as to make the institution self
supporting, or at least *t render it independent of
annual subscriptions.
Deaf and Dumb Institution. — This institution is
situated in the same part of the city as the asylum
for the blind. It was commenced under the same
auspices, and on the same system, as the Deaf and
Dumb Institution of Edinburgh ; and it became
early distinguished for great efficiency and success,
Strangers are allowed to visitit only on Wednesdays
and at a given hour.
Royal Infirmary. — This institution was projected
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in June 1787, and opened in December 1793. It
oow comprises three buildings. The earliest of
these stands on the ground once occupied by the
episcopal palace, in the western vicinity of the Ca-
thedral ; is a large edifice, in the lioman style, after
a design by Adam ; has four stories above gr#und
and one below ; presents, on its front, a tetrastyle
Corinthian portico ; is surmounted by a large, fine,
ribbed cupola; and contains 15 wards and 283 beds.
The second building, called the fever hospital, was
erected in 1832 ; stands a little to the north of the
former edifice; has a plainer character; and con-
tains 11 wards and 267 beds. The third building
was erected in 1861, at a cost of £12,200. The In-
firmary is supported mainly by voluntary contribu-
tions, but has also a permanent stock-capital, which
received in 1854 the splendid addition of £10,000
by legacy of James Ewing, Esq., of Strathleven.
The contributions to it from the working-classes, in
the manufacturing establishments of the city, and
in the mining districts of the neighbourhood, are
always large, and amounted in 1861 to £2,295. The
total expenditure during that year, exclusive of the
cost of the new building, was £9,143. The total
number of in-patients treated during 1861, was
4,441; and of these 4,103 were treated to a con-
clusion, 414 died, and 3,689 were sent out cured,
relieved, or otherwise no longer requiring treat-
ment. The number of fever cases was 751, and the
number of surgical cases 564. The number of out-
patients treated, during the same year, from the
dispensary, was 10,272 ; and of these 4,370 were
surgical, and 5,902 medical. The number of chil-
dren vaccinated during the year was 873; but the
average yearly number in some previous years, was
close on 1,000. The Infirmary has a staff of 4
physicians, 4 surgeons, 2 dispensary physicians, 2
dispensary surgeons, and all other requisite officers ;
and is regularly attended by a great number of the
students at the medical schools of the Koyal and the
Andersonian universities.
Lunatic Asylum. — The original edifice of this in-
stitution was founded in 1810, and opened in 1814,
on what was then a secluded site in the northern
outskirts of the city, but what is now a portion of
the north side of the busy thoroughfare of Parlia-
mentary road, laid out in 1838; and having been
rendered unfit for its purposes, first by the tunnel-
ling of the Edinburgh and Glasgow railway be-
neath it, and next by the encroachments of the
public streets, it was sold in 1841 to the directors of
the town's hospital. A new edifice was founded in
1842, and opened in the following year, on a plot
of 06 acres, at Gartnavel, about a mile west of the
Iiotanic garden. The ground and the edifice cost
together £75,950. The edifice stands on an emi-
nence, commanding a splendid view of the sur-
rounding country; is a huge pile, in a mixed style
of Saxon and Gothic; and contains accommodation
for 680 patients. Its first class division consists of
three sides of a quadrangle, the principal one 492
feet long, each of the others 186 feet. Its second
class division also consists of three sides of a quad-
rangle, the principal one 285 feet long, each of the
others 196 feet.
Eye Infirmary. — The Glasgow Eye Infirmary, in
Charlotte-street, has 24 beds for operation cases,
and treats annually upwards of 1,600 patients. Two
surgeons, two consulting surgeons, an assistant-
surgeon, and an apothecary are on its staff; and
students are admitted to its practice on payment of
£3 3s. for twelve months, or £2 2s. for six months.
Lying-in Hospitals. — The Glasgow Lying-in Hos-
pital, formerly in St. Andrew's-square, now at the
head of North Portland-street, was established in
1835, is supported by voluntary contribution, has
24 beds for in-door patients, gives attendance to in-
digent married females at their own houses, and
treats annually upwards of 1,000 cases. — The Glas-
gow University Lying-in hospital has 2 physicians,
and a matron, treats the diseases of women and
children, and affords gratuitous advice on these
daily at its dispensary in George-street.
Lock Hospital. — This institution was formed in
1805, for the cure of diseased females; and is sup-
ported by voluntary contributions. It is situated
in Rotten-row ; and has two acting surgeons. The
average number of patients nightly in it during
1861 was 33; the average number of patients'
night's sojourn was 31; and the average cost of
regular patients was £1 5s. 9|d.
Houses of Refuge. — These are institutions for the
reception of juvenile thieves, and of neglected chil-
dren who seem liable to glide into crime, and for
giving them a good education, and training them to
support themselves by honest industry. There are
two for respectively males and females. That for
males stands in the eastern outskirts of the city, by
the outlet of Duke-street ; is an edifice in the Ro-
man style, after a design by Biyce; and was built
in 1836-8, at a cost of about £'13,000, raised by
subscription. The institution was dependent en-
tirely, for a time, on voluntary contribution ; but
eventually acquired support from assessment, im-
posed by act of parliament. The number of boys in
the house, at the commencement of 1861, was 320;
the number admitted during that year was 101 ;
and the number who went off the list during the
year, 133. Of the 101 admitted, 12 had never been
in jail, 68 bad once been in jail, 16 bad been twice,
and 5 had been from three to five times; 71 were
under sentence by the city magistrates, 18 were
under sentence by the sheriff, and 12 were admit-
ted under the house of refuge act. Of the 133
who went off the list during the year, 6 were ad-
mitted into the army or navy, 5 were sent to Canada,
104 were sent to situations provided by friends, 4
were sent to another institution, 13 went away ir-
regularly, and 1 died in the house. The house of
refuge for females was of later origin than the other,
and is situated in Parliamentary road. The num-
ber of girls in it at the commencement of 1861 was
88; the number admitted during that year was 27;
and the number who went off the list during the
year was 26. Of the 27 admitted, 12 were under
sentence by the city magistrates, 5 were under sen-
tence by the sheriff, and 10 were admitted under the
house of refuge act. Of the 26 who went off the
list, 13 were discharged to relations, 10 were sent to
service, 1 absconded, and 2 died in the house.
Magdalene Asylum. — This institution is partly
self-supporting, and partly maintained by subscrip-
tion. The income of it, during the year ending 31
October 1861, was £1,235; and the expenditure,
£1,097. The number of its inmates at the com-
mencement of that year was 46; the number ad-
mitted during the year was 230; the number who
went off the list during the year was 232 ; and of
the last, 46 were sent to service or to various em-
ployments, 24 were restored to their friends, 69 were
sent to the house of refuge, 16 were sent to other
institutions, 2 were sent out to Australia, 2 were
married, 15 were discharged as intractable, 51 left
of their own accord, and 7 left clandestinely. —
There is a magdalene department also in the female
house of refuge. And the number of its inmates, at
the commencement of 1861, was 41; the number
admitted during that year was 50 ; the number who
went off the list during the year was 44 ; and of the
last, 3 were sent to service, 9 were restored to the>
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relations, 2 were sent to other institutions, 4 left to
seek work, 23 left wilfully, and 3 were expelled.
Industrial Asylums. — The House of Shelter, in
II ill-street, was instituted in 1850, to provide a
home and needle-work for females liberated from
prison, and desirous of doing well. The num-
ber of its inmates, at the commencement of 18C1,
was 36; the number admitted during that year was
70; the number who went off the list during the
year was 66; and of the last, 14 were restored to
relatives, 21 went to service or employments, 4
went to the infirmary, 2 went to other institutions,
another left in bad health, 2 absconded, 14 left of
their own accord, 7 were dismissed, and 1 died in
the house. — The House of Industry for indigent
females is connected with the Night, Asylum for the
houseless in North Frederick-street. The number
of its inmates at the commencement of the year
ending 31 Aug. 1861 was 22 ; the number admitted
during that year was 31 ; the number who went off
the list during the year was 27 ; and of the last, 13
wrent to service, 6 were restored to friends, 2 were
expelled, 3 absconded, 2 left of their own accord,
and 1 died in the house.
Orphan Asylums. — The Glasgow Protestant In-
stitution for orphan and destitute girls, at Slatefield
House, Gallowgate, was founded in 1826, for girls
of good character, and provides clothing, board, and
education, at the yearly charge of £8 each. — St.
Matthew's Home for orphan and destitute children,
situated in Hill-street, is under a committee of
management, and provides clothing, board, medical
attendance, and other necessaries.
Night Asylum and Soup Kitchen. — The Night
Asylum in North Frederick-street has always been
open, during many years, for the houseless or the
utterly destitute. The average nightly number in
it, during the year ending 31 Aug. 1861, was 91 ;
the total number of men during that year was 9,981,
of boys 3,921, of women 15,705, of girls 3.749; the
total number of breakfasts and suppers issued was
79,437, of bread and soup meals 24,417, of bread
meals 14,602 ; and the average cost of the meals
was rather less than 3d. for three. The issues from
the soup-kitchen, during the period from 25th De-
cember 1860, to 7th September 1861, was 47,781 to
the account of the City-magistrates, 18,223 to the
account of the City and Barony parishes, 4,098 to
the account of private parties, and 1,673 gratuitously.
Model Lodging Mouses. — An establishment in
Greendyke-street has accommodation for 134 in-
mates; includes lavatories, a large sitting-hall, and
a library and reading-room ; charges, for the most
part, 3d. per night ; and accommodated, during the
year 1861, 45,749 persons. — Another establishment
in Macalpine-street, consists of 4 flats, and has ac-
commodation for 298 males; includes lavatories, a
large sitting-room, a smoking-room, and a library
and reading-room; charges id. and 6d. per night;
and accommodated during the year 1861, 58,671
persons. — A third establishment in Carrick-street,
lias accommodation for 200 females ; possesses a
general resemblance to the establishment in Macal-
pine-street ; charges, for the most part, 3d. per
night; and accommodated, during the year 1861,
25,231 persons.
Poor-Souses. — The original Glasgow poor-house,
or Town's hospital, stood in Clyde-street, and was
built in 1733. The means for raising it, as also,
during some time, the means for maintaining its
inmates, was voluntary subscription; and even after
assessment for the poor came into practice, the
amount of this for the city, so late as 1803, was only
£3,940. But the pressure of pauperism began, soon
after that date, to be strong; and it has gone on in-
creasing with such rapidity that, in 1861, so many
as 17,730 persons, or about 1 in 25'2 of the entiro
population, were dependent on poor-rates. Theso
are levied in the proportions mentioned in section
"Assessments," in the four quasi-parochial districts
of the City, the Barony, Govan, and Gorbals. The
City poor-house now is in Parliamentary-road,
was originally the lunatic asylum, passed by sale tc
the parochial managers for £15.000, is a spacious
octagonal edifice, with four radiating wings and a
central dome ; and contains accommodation for
1,500 persons. The number of its inmates on 1st
July 1860 was 891 ; the number then at school,
72; the number of poor who received in-door relief
during the previous half-year, 2,959; the number
on the sick-list during that half-year, 1,677; the
number of inmates who died during that half-year,
255 ; the number of lunatic inmates during that
half-year, 183. The Barony poor-house is a spacious,
oblong, modern edifice, at Barn-hill, in the north-
eastern environs of the city ; and contains accommo-
dation for 1,243 persons. The number of its in-
mates on 1st July 1860 was 966; the number then
at school, 170 ; the number of poor who received in-
door relief during the previous half-year, 2,234; the
number on the sick-list during that half-year, 773;
the number of inmates who died during that half-
year, 98; and the number of lunatic inmates during
that half-year, 175. The Govan and Gorbals poor-
house is a square of buildings, in the southern out-
skirts, on the line of Bridge-street, originally
erected for cavalry barracks, occupied for some
time as such, purchased from Government, and re-
fitted by the parochial managers, and now contain-
ing accommodation for 750 persons. The number of
inmates on 1st July I860, was 374; the number
then at school, 59 ; the number of poor who received
in-door relief during the previous half-year, 740 ;
the number on the sick-list during that half-year,
348; the number of inmates who died during that
half-year, 68; and the number of lunatic inmates
during that half-year, 37.
Charitable and Friendly Societies. — One of these
was instituted in 1799, and affords relief to aged and
destitute women, chiefly widows. Another was in-
stituted in 1811, and affords relief to indigent
women, above 60 years of age. Another was in-
stituted in 1844, and affords comparatively large re-
lief to natives, and to the widows and children of
natives, who have fallen from competence into in-
digence. Another was instituted in 1808, and gives
annuities of £10 or upwards, immediate or deferred,
to persons of 30 years and upwards. Two others
give visitation and aliment to the destitute sick. I
Another in the west, established in 1853, gives
gratuitous advice and medicines to the sick-poor.
Others are for the benefit of persons of given
names, such as Brown, Buchanan, and Graham ;
others are for the benefit of specific classes, as com-
mercial travellers, grocers, stationers, printers, sea-
men, Scottish Episcopalians, and the sons of minis-
ters ; others are for the benefit of persons from
special districts, — Angus and Mearns, Ayrshire,
Upper Clydesdale, Fife, Kinross, and Clackmannan,
Galloway, Dumfries-shire and Galloway, Lothian,
Perthshire, Renfrewshire, Moray and Banffshire,
Merse and Teviotdale, Stirlingshire, Tweedside, and
the West of Scotland.
Religious and Philanthropic Societies. — These, as
distinguished from ecclesiastical institutions, are
of the same kind as in other large towns of the
empire, so numerous and so well understood, that
we need do no more than name the chief ones : —
The National Bible Society of Scotland; the West
of Scotland Bible Society; the Glasgow sub- division
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of the Evangelical Alliance ; the Glasgow Auxiliary
to the London Missionary Society ; the Glasgow
Auxiliary to the Moravian missions ; the University
Missionary Association ; the Glasgow Continental
Society ; the Glasgow Auxiliary to the Colonial
Missionary Society; the Ladies' Auxiliary to the
Glasgow Missionary Society; the Glasgow branch
of the Scottisli Society for the Conversion of Israel;
the Glasgow City Mission ; the Ladies' Auxiliary to
the Glasgow City Mission ; the Glasgow Cabmen's
Mission; the Glasgow Emancipation Society; the
Glasgow Female Anti-Slavery Society; the Glasgow
Ladies' Association for the advancement of female
education in India ; the Glasgow Ladies' Association
for the Christian education of Jewish females; the
Glasgow Religious Tract Society; the Glasgow
Sabbath School Union ; the Glasgow Sabbath
School Association in connexion with the Church of
Scotland ; the Glasgow Young Men's Christian
Association ; and the Scottisli Temperance League.
Ecclesiastical Affairs.
Established Church. — All Glasgow on the north
side of the Clyde, and a considerable landward tract
around it, long formed only one parish. The land-
ward tract, or Barony, had a minister appointed to it
in 1595; but was not then made a separate eccle-
siastical territory. The presbytery, in 1599, applied
to the town-council to divide the township or parish,
on account of its having become unwieldy ; and after
due consideration had been given to the application
by the corporate body, the following answer was
returned : — " They thoeht gud that the township
should be divided into twa parishes, provyding that
the town be not burdenit with seaten or bigging of
kirks nor furnishing nae mae ministers nor they hae
already." This was approved of by the incorporated
trades; and the township was formally divided into
two parishes in 1602. The portion of the original
parish which remained under the charge of the min-
ister of Glasgow, and is still sometimes called the
parish of Glasgow, as it embraced the royalty of the
city, fell under the management of the magistrates
and town council, and was by them divided at
successive intervals, as its population increased, in-
to ten districts, which were erected into separate
parishes, with the consent of the presbytery, and by
authority of the court of teinds. These parishes,
with their respective acreage, are Inner High, or
St. Mungo's, 103-01; Outer High, or St. Paul's,
33-797; St. Andrew's, 28-179 ; St. David's, 83-136 ;
St. Enoch's, 50-467; St. George's, 193-105; St.
James', 197-758; St. John's, 169-825; St. Mary's or
Tron, 14-37; and Blackfriars, or College, 32-236.
The Barony parish, comprising 3, 295-612 acres, re-
mained till a recent period, a single parish, under
the charge of one minister, aided by the erection from
time to time of chapels of ease, with subordinate
ministers ; but much of it has been disjoined to form
the new parishes of Calton, Bridgeton, Chalmers',
Shettleston, Springburn, Maryhill, St. Matthew's,
St. Peter's, and St. Stephen's ; while the remaining
part contains also the chapels of ease or non-par-
ochial churches of Camlachie, St. Mark's, Martyr's,
Milton, Anderston, Sandyford, West Park, and
lvelvin-haugh, and the disjoined parts or new par-
ishes contain those of Greenhead, St. Luke's, Mil-
lerston, St. Eollox, Well-Park, St. George's-in-the-
fields, Bridgegate, and Brownfleld. There is also,
belonging jointly to the city and the Barony, but
without any assigned territorial limits, the parochial
Gaelic church of St. Columba. Gorbals parish, on
the south side of the Clyde, was originally a small
tract disjoined from Govan parish, afterwards en-
larged by another disjunction from that parish ;
afterwards modified by the recent erection of the
new parish of Laurieston ; and it now comprises
28-489 acres, and contains the chapels of ease of
Hutchesontown and Kingston. Laurieston parish
comprises 43-795 acres. Govan parish, in so far as
lying within the parliamentary boundary, comprises
789'278 acres, and contains the chapels of ease of
Partick and Strathbungo. The three parishes of
Gorbals, Laurieston, and Govan, include all parts of
the city and suburbs lying south of the Clyde.
The parishes of the city and suburbs together
with seven other parishes, constitute the presbytery
of Glasgow ; and the presbyteries of Glasgow, Dum-
barton, Hamilton, Lanark, Paisley, Greenock, Ayr,
and Irvine, constitute the synod of Glasgow and
Ayr. The patron of Inner High, Barony, Calton,
Shettleston, Springburn, and Maryhill, is the Crown ;
the patrons of all the city churches except the In-
ner High, are the Town-council; the patrons of
Bridgeton, Chalmers', St. Matthew's, St. Peter's, St.
Stephen's, and Laurieston, ate the male communi-
cants ; the patron of St. Columba's is the Gaelic
Society ; the patrons of Gorbals are the heritors and
kirk-session ; and the patron of Govan is the Uni-
versity of Glasgow. The stipend of the Inner High
and the Barony arises from the teinds of the original
parish of Glasgow, and amounts to not less than
£500 per annum each. The stipend of each of the
city parishes, except the Inner High, is paid by the
Corporation, and was increased from time to time as
follows:— £58 16s. lid. in 1628, £C6 13s. 4d. in 1642.
£78 16s. 8d. in 1643, £111 2s. 2d. in 1723, £138 17s.
8d. in 1762, £165 in 1778, £200 in 1796, £250 in
1801, £300 in 1808, £400 in 1814, £425 in 1830.
The stipends of the other churches are various both
in source and in amount.
The Cathedral. — The parent church of Glasgow
stands contiguous to the ravine of the Molindinar
burn, on nearly the highest ground within the limits
of the city. This was the Cathedral before the lie-
fonnation, the High Church afterwards ; and it now
bears botli names indifferently. The edifice was
mainly built during 74 years of the 12th century,
but it underwent additions and changes both before
and after the Reformation, and it passed through a
process of cleansing and restoration in the years
1835-1857, with a view to reinstate it in what good
critics regard as its original or designed form. It
was modelled on the Latin cruciform type, but has
no north transept, and only a small incomplete south
one ; and it comprises nave, choir, lady-chapel,
crypt, and chapter-house, — measures 319 feet in
length, 63 feet in breadth, and 90 feet in height, —
and has also a central tower and spire. The grand
western entrance was long blocked by a consistory
and a low steeple, which were an excrescence on the
original edifice ; but the entrance has been restored,
and the excrescence taken away. The nave inter-
nally is 155 feet long; and the central compartment
of it, or nave proper, is 30 feet wide. The columns
supporting the main arches and walls, are on each
side seven in number, exclusive of the piers of the
great tower. The chief characteristics of the nave
are simplicity and sublimity, arising from its vast
extent and uniformity. In Remap Catholic times
this outer court of the church was used for marshal-
ling processions on high festivals, or great public
solemnities, such as those Bishop Cameron delighted
to exhibit, when the see was in the fulness of its
temporal power and wealth. Subsequent to the
Reformation a partition wall of rough masonry was
run up, which cut the nave in two, and the western
portion of it was fitted up as a church, and received
the name of the Outer High. This unsightly ap-
propriation continued till 1835, when the Town-
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council built a new church for the parish of the
Outer High, which was now named St. Paul's ; and
the wall dividing the nave, along with the seating
of the church, was then removed. The tower
forms s cube of 30 feet; rises about the same height
above the lofty roof of tbe building; and is sur-
mounted by a spire, attaining an elevation of 225
feet from the floor of the nave to the top of the
weather-cook. The rood-screen or loft dividing the
nave from the choir, appears to have been one of
the most exquisitely carved portions of the building;
but it was sadly mutilated by the Reformers ; and
nothing can restore those mystical figures, of which
tbe ruins alone remain. The choir, in which the
principal altars were erected, and high mass per-
formed, is n fine specimen of the early English style,
and happily it has been kept in a very creditable
state of repair and preservation, from the fact that
it was appropriated as a Protestant place of worship
immediately after the ejectment of the Roman
Catholics. It is still the High or Inner High Church
of Glasgow ; and in 1855 it was chastely renovated
by the removal of the galleries, and the reseating of
tbe lower portions in the Cathedral form. In length,
from tbe centre of the piers of tbe great tower to
those which support its eastern gable and separate
it from tbe lady chapel, it is 97 feet; and in width,
exclusive of the side aisles, it is 30 feet. The main
arches are, on each side, five in number, resting
upon majestic columns, having rich and beautifully
foliaged capitals. On the vaulting are seen numer-
ous coats of arms of the different bishops and pre-
bends; and amongst these, on the left of tbe high
altar space, is the royal arms of Scotland, placed
there in the times of James IV., who was himself a
canon and member of tbe chapter.
The lady chapel is approached from either of the
aisles of the choir. It was long allowed to remain
in a state of neglect; and its exquisite carvings
were choked up by tbe rubbish, dust, and mildew of
two centuries ; but the recent renovations have
brought them out in their pristine beauty. This
chapel contains a solitary monument to the memory
of the Protestant Archbishop Law. In Joceline's
crypt, it is generally admitted that Glasgow Cathe-
dral boasts of the most unique and magnificent
structure of the kind in tbe kingdom ; and the two
lesser ones, viz., Blackadder's in the unfinished
southern transept, and Lauder's under the chapter
house, Ave also considered exquisite gems, especially
tbe former. The Roman Catholic architects ex-
pended all the resources of their art in adorning the
spot which was to receive the remains of the lordly
prelates and benefactors of the see; and after the
lapse of seven centuries, it stands alone in its dignity
and beauty. The crypt extends in length beneath
the choir and lady chapel 125 feet, by 62 in width.
Tbe principal piers are found here, as a matter of
course, beneath those of the superstructure; they
assume every possible form of triangular, round, and
multangular ; and they are embraced by attached
columns, having capitals of all varieties, from the
simple Norman to the most intricate foliage. A tomb
at the eastern end, upon the raised platform of which
is placed tbe recumbent effigy of a bishop in his
robes, is consecrated by tradition as that of St. Ken-
tigern. This is exceedingly apocryphal; and it is
much more likely to be the tomb of one of the
bishops subsequent to tbe reign of David I. The
figure unfortunately is mutilated. In Romish times,
the crypt was used as a place of sepulture ; but all
traces of the remains of the prelates and the bene-
factors of the see, who shared their resting-place,
were cast forth at tbe troubles of the Reformation.
The crypt was afterwards appropriated as the place
of worship of tbe Barony or landward parish, on this
being disjoined from the city parish. A more unique
place of worship than this underground cbarnel bouse
— magnificent though it be — has rarely been known.
Irregular clusters of pews were interspersed between
the dense colonnade of short pillars which supported
tbe low arches; and here the congregation assem-
bled to worship in the "dim religious light" sup-
plied by the slanting rays which struggled inwards
from the bright world without. Tennant gives it as
his opinion that the church was only fit for tbe
singing of the " He Profundus Clamavi ad te Do-
mine;" and Sir Walter Scott graphically describes
it in bis "Rob Roy." This extraordinary place of
worship was retained by the Barony parishioners
till 1801, when the present church was built. Tbe
Cathedral was not quit of the Barony heritors, how-
ever; for they had no sooner left the crypt as a
church, than they took possession of it as a place of
sepulture for their own kindred. It accordingly pre-
sented a most unseemly spectacle for many a day.
Tbe lower shafts of the columns were buried 5 feet
in earth, while the walls were daubed over wish
disgusting emblems of grief. The rusty railings,
however, and the foul compost, have now been re-
moved, and the former repulsiveness of the crypt is
forgotten in the feeling of admiration and pride in
spired by its restored dignity and beauty.
A proposal was made, in 1856, to fill the windows
of the Cathedral witli stained glass; and this was
readily taken up by a body of subscribers, including
the Government, the Corporation, and a number of
wealthy private parties. A committee was appoint-
ed to form a plan, and to carry it into execution.
Tbe plan included the great east window at a cost
of about £606, to be supplied by Government; the
great west window, at a cost of about £1,570, to be
supplied by the Corporation ; the great northern tran-
sept window and the great southern transept win
dow, to be supplied by Sir Andrew' Orr, ex-lord-pro-
vost, and by the Messrs. Baird of Gartsherrie ;
forty-four windows of the nave, the choir, and tbe
lady-chapel, and between forty and fifty windows of
the crypts, to be supplied by general subscription
and by private parties. The design for the great
east window was a replacement, in better style, of
figures of tbe Four Evangelists, which had pre-
viously been in that window for fifty years; that for
the great west window was a series of episodes
from the history of the Jewish people; that for the
great transept windows was full length figures of
prophets and righteous kings of the Old Testament
times; that for the choir windows was subjects
from tbe Parables, alternating with angelic figures;
that for the lady-chapel windows was subjects illus-
trative of tbe propagation of the gospel, as narrated
in the Acts of the Apostles; that for tbe chapter-
house windows was subjects illustrative of the his-
tory of the Cathedral, including a visit made to it
in 1840 by Queen Victoria; and that for the crypt-
windows was miscellaneous, affording scope for
memorials and devices by private parties or indivi-
dual families. Great part of these designs has been
executed, chiefly from the royal factory of Munich,
in a style at once brilliant, beautiful, and harmoni-
ous. The grand windows are a blaze of art; and
many of the subordinate ones, as well in the crypts
as elsewhere, have much attraction.
Parochial Churches. — St. Paul's Church, built for
the congregation of the Outer High parish, former-
ly assembling in the nave of the Cathedral, is situ-
ated in John-street ; presents a neat but compara-
tively plain appearance, with a belfry; and contains
1,195 sittings. St. Andrew's church stands in the
centre of St. Andrew's square ; was built in the
GLASGOW.
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GLASGOW
latter part of last century; presents a general re-
semblance to the church of St. Martiu's-in-the-
Fields in London; has a hexastyle composite por-
tico, and a lofty steeple ; and contains 1,213 sittings.
St. David's church stands on the north side of
Ingram-street. confronting Candlerigg-street ; su-
perseded a previous church, called the Earn shorn,
on the same site; surmounts a burying crypt, with
groined arches and cast-iron pillars; is a handsome
cruciform structure, in florid Gothic, after designs
by Kickman and Hutchinson of Birmingham ; has
a square pinnacled tower, 120 feet high ; and con-
tains 1,113 sittings. St. Enoch's church stands at
the south end of St. Enoch's square; has a dispro-
portionately small but beautiful steeple, which be-
longed to a previous edifice of 1782 ; is itself a
handsome Roman structure of 1827, after a design
by D. Hamilton; and contains 1,219 sittings. St.
George's church stands in St. George's place, on the
west side of Buchanan-street, confronting George-
street ; is an oblong Roman edifice of 1807, after a
design by Stark; has a disproportionately small front,
surmounted by a steeple 162 feet high, with four
obelisk finials at the angles, and a loftier one in the
centre; and contains 1,315 sittings. St. James'
church stands in Great Hamilton-street; was ori-
ginally a Methodist chapel; is a neat but plain
structure, without tower or belfry; and contains
1.274 sittings. St. John's church confronts the head
of Macfarlane-street ; was built for Dr. Chalmers;
is a fine Gothic edifice, with pinnacled square tower;
and contains 1,633 sittings. St. Mary's or Tron
church stands behind the house-line of the south
side of Trongate, in the near vicinity of the Tron
steeple; is a plain edifice of 1794, after a design by
Adam; and contains 1,344 sittings. Blacki'riars'
or College church stands on the east side of High-
street, adjacent to the University ; is an unattractive
edifice of 1699, on the site of a noble previous Go-
thic church, which was destroyed by lightning in
1688; and contains 1,162 sittings.
Barony church stands in the neighbourhood of the
Cathedral; was built in 1801; is a large ungainly
structure, without tower or any tasteful decoration;
and forms one of the worst specimens of ecclesias-
tical architecture in the kingdom. St. Columba's
church, on the east side of Hope-street, is a modern,
pleasing Gothic edifice. West Park church, on a
high site at the eastern extremity of the West End
park, is a recent, massive Gothic edifice of nave and
aisles, with a grand lofty tower, terminating in
eight pinnacles. Anderston church, near the head
of Main-street, Anderston, is a conspicuous, modern
Gothic edifice, with a good steeple. Sandyford
church, near the same line of thoroughfare, further
west, is a recent, heavy Gothic pile, with three-gabled
front. Milton church, on the south side of the new
City-road, is a good modern structure, with a stee-
ple. Gorbals church, on the south side of Norfolk-
street, is a neat recent oblong edifice, with a spire
terminating in an obelisk. Some of the other Es-
tablished places of worship might challenge notice
as at least pleasing buildings; but three of the most
prominent stand at a distance from the city-proper,
and belong to the separate suburban towns of
Springburn, Maryhill, and Govan.
Free Church. — The non-intrusionists in the Es-
tablished church who, in 1843, formed the Free
church, were more vigorous in Glasgow, and car-
vied out their church extension scheme more grandly
here, than anywhere else in the kingdom; and they
have continued, in their Free church capacity, to
maintain corresponding energy. Their congrega-
tions, within the city and its suburbs, in 1862, toge-
ther with the total contributions of each during the
twelve months ending on 31 March of that year,
were, Anderston, £1,922 2s. 2d. ; Argyle, £1,145 3s.
Hid.; Bridgegate, £741 9s. 9^d.; Bridgeton, £422
Is. 2Jd.; Camlachie, £206 13s. lljd.; Campbell-
street, £462 18s. 5£d. ; Chalmers', £259 3s. 4Jd. ;
College, £6,319 9s. Id.; Duke-street, £543 6s. ll|d.;
Finnieston, £781 18s. 9d.; Gorbals, West, £407 5s.
5Ad.; Gorbals, East, £1,375 10s. 7|d.; Hope-street,
£9754s.5^d.; Hutchesontown, £810 17s. 8d. ; John
Knox's, £951 10s. Id.; Kelvinside, £744 Is. 10|d. ;
Kingston, £178 5s. 3d.; Lyon-street, £383 Is. O.W.;
Martyrs', £172 2s. 5£d.; Maryhill, £398 4s. ll{d. ;
Millerston, £207 9s. 9£d.; Milton, £420 12s. 7fd.j
Particle, £601 2s. 3d.; Renfield, £1,018 13s. 5d.;
St. Andrew's, £754 0s. Id.; St. David's, £611 10s.
Id.; St. Enoch's, £1,420 3s. 5Jd. ; St. George's,
£1,718 6s. 10d.; St. James', £725 17s. 7d.; St.
John's, £2,813 2s. 8Jd. ; St. Luke's, £399 13s. 7|d. ;
St. Mark's, £881 14s. 6$d.; St. Matthew's, £3,450
2s. lid.; St. Paul's, £1,166 19s. 7d. ;. St. Peter's,
£2,259 17s. 4^d. ; St. Stephen's, £847 19s. lid. ;
Stockwell, £1,052 8s. ll|d.; Tron, £1,851 4s. 10§d.;
Union, £1,301 15s. ll^d.j Wellpark, £957 10s. l^d.;
West, £669 12s. ll^d.; Wynd, £327 6s.; Young-
street, £368 8s. 8Jd.; Govan, £722 13s. lOid. ; East
Millar-street mission, £10 10s.; East Gorbals mis-
sion, £2 10s. 8d. ; Shettleston mission, £110 19s.
8jd. ; Tollcross mission, £57 14s. 8^d. These con-
gregations and nine others form the Free church
presbytery of Glasgow ; and the presbyteries of
Glasgow, Dumbarton, Hamilton, Lanark, Greenock,
Paisley, Ayr, and Irvine, form the Synod of Glas-
gow and Ayr.
The church of the College congregation and the
buildings of the Glasgow Free Church College form
one grand pile, situated on high ground a few paces
east of the Established West Park church, and
erected during a series of years ending in 1862.
Their style is mainly Saxon, but includes Grecian
features ; their appearance is alike conspicuous and
imposing ; their fronts are, the college to the west,
the church to the north ; and the former has a mas-
sive, ungraduated, very lofty square tower, with a
high projecting balustrade, while the latter shows
an attached octostyle Corinthian portico, surmount-
ed by two towers in miniature uniformity with the
great western tower. The college was instituted
to prepare students in the west of Scotland for the
Free church ministry ; it has several professors on
subjects of theology, exegesis, and church history,
and a lecturer on natural science; it requires that
students, on entering, shall have attended four ses-
sions at some royal university or kindred institu-
tion; and it holds them in attendance during four
sessions of five months each, beginning always in
November.
St. Matthew's church, confronting Newton-street,
on the south side of the western extremity of
Bath-street, is a handsome Gothic edifice, with
a lofty, well-formed steeple. Renfield church, on
the same side of Bath-street, a little further east,
is an elegant florid Gothic building, with tall
pierced octagonal turrets, erected in 1857, at a cost
of £12,000. Kelvinside church, in the vicinity of
the Botanic Garden, is a temporary wooden struc-
ture, to be superseded by a handsome stone edifice,
founded in 1862. St. George's church, in West
Regent-street, near Blythswood-square, is a neat
but unpretending edifice. St. Peter's church, in
Blythswood Holm, is an ornamental Gothic edifice,
with a lofty spire. Tron church, near the inter-
section of Cathedral-street and North Hanover-
street, is also an ornamental Gothic building with
adjoining presbytery- house. St. John's church, on
the south side of George-street, opposite the Ander-
GLASGOW
783
GLASGOW.
sonian university, was erected in 1843 ; 1ms a lofty,
much-carved, well-proportioned steeple ; and is one
of the finest specimens of modern Gothic architec-
ture in the city. St. Andrew's church, on the south
side of London-street, a short way from the Cross,
is a Gothic structure with ornamental gable-front.
Wellpark church, at the junction of Duke-street
and Ladywell-street, is a heavy Gothic building
witli a steeple. Gorbals church, formerly Gorbals
parish church, in Clyde terrace, figuring conspi-
cuously in all the views along the river, around the
bridges, was built in 1810, after a design by
Thomas Hamilton, and is a large Roman edifice,
with lofty, well-proportioned steeple. East Gorbals
church, confronting a street a little to the south,
has a handsome Gothic front. Hutchesontown
church, in the vicinity of Port-Eglinton, on the
line of Bridge-street, is a large, heavy, Gothic edi-
fice, with a steeple. Most of the other Free
churches are substantial, and rise above a character
of plainness; and even two mission ones, built in
1861, in Carrick-street and Maitland-strcet, are
tolerable specimens of early Gothic.
United Presbyterian Church. — In 1851, the United
Presbyterian places of worship returned in the
Census as within the city were twenty - three,
containing 22,484 sittings, attended at the forenoon
service by 15,080 persons, at the afternoon service
by 14,649, which exceeded the number returned by
any other denomination. In 1862, the congrega-
tions on the list as within the city were thirty-five;
but there were also within the suburbs the three
additional congregations of Partick-east, Partick-
west, and Govan ; and these thirty-eight congrega-
tions, together with twenty-five others, constitute
the presbytery of Glasgow. We shall notice the
thirty-eight congregations, or their places of wor-
ship, in alphabetical order.
Anderston church is a neat Roman structure,
built in 1839, and containing 1,250 sittings; and it
superseded a previous edifice of 1769, erected by the
first Relief congregation of the city. Berkeley-
street church is a Gothic edifice of 1857, erected by
members of the second Campbell-street congrega-
tion. Blackfriars' church had a missionary origin,
and was opened in 1853. Caledonian-road church
was built in 1856, and is a Grasco-Egyptian edifice,
with a lofty, square, campanile tower, surmounted
by a large Latin cross. Calton church belonged
originally to Reformed Presbyterians ; passed by
sale to members of the Relief; was built in 1821,
and contains 1,394 sittings. Cambridge- street
church is a plain Roman building, was erected in
1834, at a cost of £3,110, was afterwards enlarged;
and contains about 1,200 sittings. A grand new
church for the Cambridge-street congregation was
founded in 1862, on the Great Western road, in the
vicinity of the Kelvin. Campbell -street church,
formerly called the second Campbell-street one, was
built by the Relief in 1792, at a cost of £2,069;
continued to be occupied by a congregation after
the building of the Berkeley-street church; contains
1,372 sittings; and is speedily (1863) to be super-
seded by a new edifice. Canon-street church was
acquired by a mission congregation in 1852, and
belonged previously to another denomination. Ca-
thedral-street church was built in 1844, by a Relief
congregation, in lieu of a previous one of 1775 at
Dovehill ; and is a handsome Gothic structure,
containing 1,100 sittings. Claremont-street church
was built in 1855, by an extension congregation ; is
a spacious Gothic structure of nave and aisles; and
was the subject of much discussion respecting the
intended use of an organ. Duke-street church was
built in 1801, by an Autiburgher congregation, at a
cost of £4,500; and is a plain but pleasing edifice,
containing 1,224 sittings. Eglinton-street church
is an oblong Roman edifice; was built in 1825, by
an extension congregation, at a cost of £4,104 ; and
contains 1,218 sittings. Erskine church, in South
Portland-street, was built in 1843, in lieu of an edi-
fice in Nicholson-street; and is a handsome, pinna-
cled Gothic structure, with about 1,200 sittings.
Gillespie church, in Great Hamilton-street, was
erected in 1845, at a cost of £4,000, has a Gothic
front, and contains 1,000 sittings. Gorbals church,
in Main-street, had a missionary origin in 1854;
and contains 600 sittings. Greenhead church, in
Bridgeton, was erected in 1805, as a Relief church,
at a cost of £1,592, and contains 1,292 sittings.
Greyfriars' church, in North Albion-street, was
erected in 1821, at a cost of £8,300; is a handsome
edifice, with Grecian portico, after a design by John
Baird ; contains 1,532 sittings; and superseded a
previous church in Shuttle-street, built in 1740 by
the first Secession congregation in Glasgow. Hut-
chesontown church was built, at a cost of £3,000, by
a Relief congregation organized in 1799; and con-
tains 1,609 sittings. John-street church, at the
corner of Cochrane-street, is an oblong edifice of
1859, with two fronts, consisting of basement story
and lofty Ionic colonnade, after designs by Rochead ;
and it superseded, on the same site, a previous church
of 1798, built by a Relief congregation, at a cost of
£4,442, and containing 1,522 sittings. Langside-
road church originated with an extension congre-
gation in 1858. London-road church was built in
1835, and contains 1,094 sittings. Maryhill church
originated with a congregation formed in 1855.
Mitchell church, in Cheapside-street, also originated
with a congregation formed in the same year. Mon-
trose-street church was founded in 1841, by a dis-
joined portion of Duke-street congregation, and
contains about 800 sittings. New City-road church
originated with a mission congregation formed in
1854. Partick churches, East and West, are neat,
plain, medium-sized edifices of 1826, erected by re-
spectively United Secession and Relief congrega-
tions. Pollok-street church is a large handsome
edifice, and was built by an extension congregation,
formed in 1855. Regent-place church was built in
1818, at a cost of £4,939, by a disjoined portion of
Duke-street congregation ; and contains about 1,400
si ttin gs. Renfield-street church , adjacen t to Sauchie-
hall-street, was built in 1848 by a main portion of
Regent-place congregation ; makes a brilliant dis-
play of Gothic pinnacles, but is flanked along the
Sauchiehall-street basement with shops; cost, along
with the shops, £12,695; and contains 1,236 sittings.
St. Rollox church originated with a mission congre-
gation, formed in 1855. St. Vincent-street church
was built in 1858; stands on high ground; is a mas-
sive structure partly in Egyptian architecture,
partly in Ionic, with lofty, Egyptian, cupola-capped
tower; and superseded a previous plain edifice in
Gordon-street, erected in 1823, by an extension con-
gregation, at a cost of £4,460, and containing 1,576
sittings. Shamrock-street church was built in 1850,
by an extension congregation, at a cost of £3,000;
is a neat edifice, with Gothic front; and contains
about 1,000 sittings. Sydney-place church, in the
eastern part 'of Duke-street, is an ornate Grecian
structure of 1858, erected in lieu of the first Camp-
bell-street church, which was built by a Burghei
congregation in 1788, and contained 1,631 sittings.
Springburn church originated with a mission con-
gregation in 1857. Tollcross church was built by a
Relief congregation in 1806, at a cost of £2,650;
and contains 1,269 sittings. Wellington - street
church was built in 1828, at a cost of £9, COO; su-
GLASGOW.
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GLASGOW.
perseded an edifice in Anderston, which had been
erected by an Antiburgher congregation in 1792 ;
is an oblong edifice surmounting burial crypts, and
adorned with a handsome Grecian portico ; and
contains 1,492 sittings.
Other Presbyterian Churches. — The Reformed
Presbyterian church has four congregations in
Glasgow; and these, with seven in other places,
form its presbytery of Glasgow. The first of its
Glasgow congregations was formed in 1756, in Cal-
ton, and removed to a large neat new edifice in
Great Hamilton-street. The other three have good
structures in respectively West Campbell-street,
Salisbury-street, and Grant-street. — The United
Original Secession church has a congregation in
Main-street, and makes this and three others else-
where constitute its presbytery of Glasgow. — Two
isolated congregations, calling themselves Congre-
gational Presbyterians, built neat spacious churches
iu Parliamentary-road and Barrack-street; and the
former passed, in May 1863, into connexion with
the United Presbyterian church. Another isolated
congregation, called Church Presbyterian, meets in
Low Green-street.
Congrer/ational Churches. — Seven churches, in
connexion with the Congregational Union of Scot-
land, are in Ewing-place, Elgin-place, Claremont-
terrace, Nicolson -street, North Hanover- street,
Great Hamilton-street, and Dovehill. The edifice
in Ewing-place is a spacious, ornate, recent struc-
ture in the Italian style, built in lieu of a very
large but plain edifice in "West Nile-street; and
that superseded the first Congregational place of
worship in Glasgow, which stood in Jamaica-street,
bore the name of the Circus, and was opened, in
1779, by the famous Rowland Hill of London. The
edifice in Elgin-place is a structure in florid Ionic,
built in 1856, in lieu of the edifice in George street,
now incorporated with the Edinburgh and Glasgow
railway terminus; and that edifice superseded a
structure in North Albion-street, which was the
second Congregational place of worship in Glasgow.
■ — Two congregations, of similar principles to the
seven, but not connected with the Congregational
Union, assemble in a place of worship in Bath-
street, and in another called Ebenezer chapel. The
Bath-street edifice is a structure of 1853, in showy
Gothic, with hagiological sculptures, and a tasteful,
tapering, lofty spire. — An old Scotch Independent
place of worship, a modern tasteful building, is ill
Oswald-street. — Six places of worship, in connexion
with the Evangelical Union, are in Dundas-street,
Blackfriars'-street, Calton, Bridgeton, Tradeston,
and the North Quarter. The Dundas-street edifice
is a Norman triple-gabled structure, with flanking
eutrance-tower, terminating in a truncated spire. —
Baptist places of worship are in Hope-street, Brown-
street, Blackfriars'-street, John-street, North Fre-
derick-street, South Portland-street, Norfolk- street,
and Dovehill.
Methodist Churches. — A hall in Stockwell-street
was rented by the Methodists in 1779, and fre-
quently preached in by John Wesley. A plain
large church was afterwards built by them in John-
street, and was recently reconstructed. Two better
large churches were built by them also in Great
Hamilton-street and Bridge-street; but the former
was sold to the town-council to become the parish
church ol St. James, and the latter was sold to the
Glasgow and Paisley railway company, and was
taken down to give place to the terminus. The
Wesleyan Methodist places of worship now in
Glasgow, besides that in John-street, are one
called St. Thomas' and one at the Govan iron-
works. Two Primitive Methodist places of wor-
ship are in George-street and in Main-street, Gor
bals.
Episcopalian Churches. — Four Scottish Episcopa-
lian places of worship are in Glasgow, — St. Andrew's
at the foot of the Green, St. Mary's in Renfield-street,
St. John's in Anderston, and Christ's church in
Calton ; and the clergymen of these, together with
the clergymen of twenty-seven others in other
places, are under the Bishop of Glasgow and Gal-
loway, who resides in Ayr. St. Andrew's church is
an edifice of 1750, and contains a fine-toned organ
and some elegant decorations. St. Mary's church
is a neat Gothic structure, after a design by R.
Scott. — An English Episcopalian church, called St.
Jude's, stands at the south-west corner of Blyths-
wood-square ; is a neat oblong edifice, in the Grseco-
Egyptian style ; and was built for the poet Robert
Montgomery.
Roman Catholic Churches. — Eleven Roman Catho-
lic places of worship are in Glasgow and its en-
virons.— St. Andrew's in Great Clyde-street, St.
Mary's in Abercromby-street, St. John's in Portu-
gal-street, St. Mungo's in Stanhope-street, St. Pat-
rick's in Anderston, St. Vincent's in Duke-street,
St. Alphonsus' in Great Hamilton-street, St. Joseph's
in North Woodside-road, St. Peter's in Partick,
another in Springburn, and another in Maryhill;
and the clergymen of these, together with the
clergymen of forty-six others in other places, are
under the Bishop of Castabala, or Vicar Apostolic
of the Western Districts of Scotland, who resides in
Glasgow. St. Andrew's church was built in 1817,
and is a large brilliant edifice in florid Gothic, con-
sisting of nave and aisles, and richly adorned with
turrets and pinnacles. The earliest unclandestine
Roman Catholic place of worship in Glasgow, sub-
sequent to the Reformation, was an edifice of 1797
in Gallowgate, and this was superseded by St. An-
drew's church.
Other Religious Denominations. — A congregation
of Plymouth Brethren meets in West Campbell-
street; one of Glassites, in George-street; one of
Bereans, in the Trades' Hall ; one of the Catholic
Apostolic Church, in Catherine-street; one of the
New Jerusalem Church, in Cathedral-street; one of
the Society of Friends, in North Portland-street;
one of Univcrsalists, in the Trades' Hall; one of
Unitarians, in St. Vincent-street; one of Christian
Israelites, in George-street; and one of Jews, also
in George-street.
Statistics.
Population. — -At the comparatively recent date of
1560, the population of Glasgow does not appear to
have exceeded 4,500. In 1581, the Confession of
Faith was signed or assented to by 2,250 persons
above 12 years of age. In 1610, Archbishop Spot-
tiswoode directed the population to be ascertained,
when it was found to amount to 7,644. In 1660, at
the Restoration of Charles II., the population had
increased to 14,678; but it fell off immediately con-
sequent upon the troubled era of the "Persecu-
tion;" and, at the Revolution of 1688, the city
contained only 11,948 souls. Indeed, nearly half a
century elapsed before Glasgow regained the amount
of population which she possessed at the beginning
of the reign of the second Charles. In 1708, im-
mediately after the Union, a census was taken by
order of the magistrates, and the result was 12,766.
In 1712, when the Convention of Royal Burghs
ordered a return from each burgh, the numbers in
Glasgow were given as 13,832. In 1740, the popu-
lation was ascertained by the magistrates to he
17,034. In 1763, Mr. John Woodburn, the city
surveyor, enumerated the inhabitants and found
GLASGOW.
785
GLASGOW.
tliom to amount to 28,300. In 1780, wlien tlie
suburban parishes of tlio Gorbals and Barony, then
very insignificant, were, for the first time, included,
the population was found to have increased to
42,832. In 1785, the magistrates again directed tlie
population to be taken, when it amounted to 45,889.
In 1791, tlie population was taken for Sir John
Sinclair's National Statistical work, and the return
gave 66,578. In 1801, according to the Govern-
ment census, the population of the city and suburbs
was 83,769; in 1811, it was 110,460; in 1821, it
was 147,043; in 1831, it was 202,426; in 1841, it
was 280,682; in 1851, it was 360,138; in 1861, it
was 446,639. Scarcely one-half of the increase since
1801 has arisen from tlie excess of births over
deaths ; and the rest of the increase has arisen from
immigration. Tlie population within the royalty,
in 1861, comprised 76,732 males, and 85,297 females,
or 162,029 persons; and that within the parlia-
mentary boundaries comprised 184,939 males and
209,925 females, or 394,864 persons. Tlie popula-
tion within the suburbs, therefore, was 51,254; and
the line which defined the suburbs might easily
have been so drawn as to include a much greater
number.
House-Accommodation. — The word house is so
variously understood, from a wide sense including
everything between two gables to a narrow sense
including only what is occupied by a single tenant,
that the statistics relating to it, in consequence of
being bnsed on different senses of it, show exceed-
ingly different figures. The census of 1861 tabu-
lates, as within the royalty, 5,339 inhabited houses,
45 uninhabited, and 42 building, and as within the
parliamentary boundaries 13,866 inhabited, 144 un-
inhabited, and 176 building; while returns for
1861-2, made by the assessors under the Lands
Valuation Act, tabulate, as within the parliamen-
tary boundaries, 87,579 dwelling-houses of ag-
gregate rental, £846,098, and 5,086 unocupied
dwelling-houses of aggregate rental, £50,839. These
returns also show 34,503 of the dwelling-bouses as
each under £5 of rental, 33,120 as at £5 and under
£10 of rental, and 19,956 as at £10 and upwards of
rental. They likewise show 1,960 of the unoccupied
houses as under £5 of rental, 1,708 as at £5 and
under £10 of rental, and 1,418 as at £10 and upwards
of rental.
The census of 1861 further shows that 51 single
occupants or families of each one person, occupied
rooms without windows, 2,008 one room with win-
dow, 642 two rooms, 153 three, 76 four, 28 five, 18 six,
and 29 seven or more; that 68 families of each two
persons occupied rooms without windows, 6,128 one
room with window, 3,385 two rooms, 961 three, 410
four, 136 five, 88 six, 35 seven, 21 eight, 16 nine, 8
ten, and 18 eleven or more; that 43 families of each
three persons occupied rooms without windows,
6,126 one room with window, 4,891 two rooms,
1,412 three, 696 four, 253 five, 214 six, 75 seven,
46 eight, 20 nine, 17 ten, and 41 eleven or more;
that 44 families of each four persons occupied rooms
without windows, 5,349 one room with window,
5,901 two rooms, 1,634 three, 848 four, 288 five, 205
6ix, 80 seven, 62 eight, 34 nine, 24 ten, and 66
eleven or more; that 18 families of each five per-
sons occupied rooms without windows, 4,006 one
room with window, 5,690 two rooms, 1,771 three,
831 four, 320 five, 237 six, 84 seven, 65 eight, 37
nine, 33 ten, and 49 eleven or more; that 10
families of each six persons occupied rooms without
windows, 2,440 one room with window, 4,876 two
rooms, 1,547 three, 741 four, 302 five, 200 six, 101
seven, 60 eight, 44 nine, 29 ten, and 79 eleven or
more; that 7 still larger families occupied rooms
without windows ; that 1,253 families of each seven
persons occupied one room with window, 3,417 two
rooms, 1,280 three, 644 four, 224 five, 187 six, 69
seven, 57 eight, 38 nine, 24 ten, and 82 eleven or
more; that 596 families of each eight persons oc-
cupied one room with window, 2,028 two rooms,
776 three, 449 four, 179 five, 141 six, 62 seven, 36
eight, 27 nine, 23 ten, and 93 eleven or more ; that
228 families of each nine persons occupied one
room with window, 996 two rooms, 464 three, 292
four, 116 five, 110 six, 39 seven, 32 eight, 28 nine,
30 ten, and 69 eleven or more ; that 84 families of
each ten persons occupied one room, 414 two rooms,
250 three, 162 four, 73 five, 88 six, 25 seven, 24
eight, 17 nine, 15 ten, and 76 eleven or more; that
30 families of each eleven persons occupied one
room, 194 two rooms, 94 three, 85 four, 45 five, 39
six, 13 seven, 23 eight, 15 nine, 12 ten, and 65 eleven
or more; that II families of each twelve persons oc-
cupied one room, 76 two rooms, 38 three, 30 four,
16 five, 20 six, 13 seven, 15 eight, 8 nine, 10 ten,
and 66 eleven or more ; that 10 families of each
thirteen or more persons occupied one room, 49
two rooms, 54 three, 42 four, 24 five, 11 six, 15
seven, 14 eight, 11 nine, 13 ten, and 145 eleven or
more.
Births, Marriages, and Deaths. — During the year
1861, tlie births, within the parliamentary boundar-
ies, were 8,532 males. 8,004 females, 15,101 legiti-
mate, 1,435 illegitimate, or 16,536 infants; within
the suburbs, 2,091 legitimate, 103 illegitimate, or
2,194 infants. The proportion of births to the pop-
ulation was, within the parliamentary boundaries,
as 1 to 23'9, or 4-18 per cent. ; within the suburbs,
as 1 to 23'4, or 4'28 per cent. The proportion of
illegitimate births to legitimate, within the parlia-
mentary boundaries, was 8'6 per cent. ; within the
suburbs, 4'7 per cent. The marriages, within the
parliamentary boundaries, were 3,480; within the
suburbs, 316. The proportion of marriages to the
population, within the parliamentary boundaries, was
as 1 to 113-4, or 0'88 per cent; within the suburbs
as 1 to 1 62-2, or 0-61 per cent. The deaths, within
the parliamentary boundaries, were 10,932, or at
the rate of 2-76 per cent, of the population; within
the suburbs, 1,360, or at the rate of 2-6 of the pop-
ulation. The deaths within the parliamentary
boundaries, under 5 years of age, were 5,450 ; at 5
and under 20 years of age, 1,109; at 20 and under
60 years of age, 2,988; at 60 and upwards, 1,385.
Of the 10,932 deaths within the parliamentary
boundaries, 2,325 were caused by zymotic diseases,
2,225 by diseases of the respiratory organs, 2,213 by
tubercular diseases, 825 by diseases of the digestive
organs, 748 by brain and nerve diseases, 620 by de-
bility of various kinds, 440 by old age, 332 by heart
diseases, 332 by violence and privations, 302 by
such diseases as dropsy and cancer, 264 by diseases
or accidents not specified, 89 by diseases of the
kidneys, 81 by diseases of the uterus, 73 by atrophy,
36 by diseases producing sudden death, 35 by diseases
of the joints and bones, 24 by malformation, and 8
by diseases of the skin.
Sanitary Condition. — Glasgow, in a sanitary point
of view, cannot be described as one place, but differs
exceedingly in its different parts. The parliamen-
tary city is divided, for registration purposes, into'
ten districts; and these show widely different death-
rates. The proportion of deaths to the population,
during the year 1861, was 163 per cent, in the High
Church district, 15'3 in the Central district, 11 in the
Bridgeton district, 10'5 in the Hutchesontown dis-
trict, 10'1 in the Calton district, 8'8 in the Trades-
ton district, 8'7 in the Clyde district, 8"1 in the An-
derston district, 7-2 in the Milton district, and 4 iu
3 D
GLASGOW.
786
GLASGOAY,
the Blythswood district. The two worst districts,
the High and the Central, are so fav exceptional as
containing respectively the Royal Infirmary and the
City Poor-house; while the best districts, especially
the Blythswood one, are so far exceptional, in the
opposite way, as containing many wealthy families,
who have a large proportion of servants, and who
rusticate during several months of the year; but all
the districts, with deductions for these qualifying
circumstances in respectively the worst and the
best, derive all their differences in death-rate from
differences in sanitary condition. What the ele-
ments of that condition are need not be specified, as
they present no other peculiarity in Glasgow than
what arises from the modifying effect of the city's
structure or the people's employments. One set of
them have their centre in malaria, and stand broadly
revealed in the death-rate under zymotic diseases ;
while another set have their centre in penury, and
stand specially revealed in the death-rate of infants
dying under one year of age.
During 1861, the central district, with a popula-
tion of 49,598, had 46 deaths from typhus, and 268
from all zymotic diseases; the High Church dis-
trict, with a population of 48,120, had 121 deaths
from typhus, and 296 from all zymotics ; the Bridge-
ton district, with a population of 45,485, had 57
from typhus, and 214 from all zymotics ; the Calton
district, with a population of 36,624, had 25 from
typhus, and 160 from all zymotics; the Hutcheson-
town district, with a population of 44,018, had 43
from typhus, and 198 from all zymotics ; the Trade-
ston district, with a population of 38,561, had 36
from typhus, and ISO from all zymotics; the An-
derston district, witli a population of 40,882, had 46
from typhus, and 1 74 from all zymotics ; the Clyde
district, with a population of 30,073, had 18 from
typhus, and 168 from all zymotics; the Milton dis-
trict, with a population of 33,327, had 35 from ty-
phus, and 160 from all zymotics; and the Blyths-
wood district, witli a population of 28,697, had 24
from typhus, and 81 from all zymotics. During the
same year, the Central district, with 2,317 births,
had 100 deaths under one month of age and 329
under one year ; the High Church district, with
2,136 births, had 94 deaths under one month and
332 under one year; the Bridgeton district, with
1,895 births, had 83 deaths under one month and
292 under one year; the Calton district, with 1,542
births, had 84 deaths tinder o-ne month and 313 un-
der one year; the Htitchesontown district, with
1,986 births, had 87' deaths under one month and
294 under one year ; the Tradeston district, with
1,485 births, had 60 deaths under one month and
217 under one year; the Anderston district, with
1.670 births, had 55 deaths under one month and
205 under one year; the Clyde district, with 1,153
births, had 89 deaths under one month and 277 un-
der one year ; the Milton district, with 1,525 births,
had 68 deaths under one month and 218 under one
year; and the Blythswood district, with 827 births,
had 33 deaths under one month and 103 under one
year.
" With a view of giving even some more striking
evidence of the diversity in the life and death sta-
tistics of different quarters of this large city," said
Dr. Strang in 1862, " we have selected two of its
most opposite portions in respect to their social and
sanitary condition, the one being Blackfriar's parish,
which is bounded on the east by the Molindinar
burn, on the south by Gallowgate from the Molin-
dinar to the Cross, on the west by the east side of
High-street to Duke-street, and on the north by
Duke-street to the Molindinar; a portion of the city
which, with the exception of the college and its
gardens, is inhabited perhaps by the very lowest and
degraded portions of our population, and containing
an area of 32'236 imperial acres. The second por-
tion, being that part of the Anderston registration
district bounded on the east and north by St. George's
road and Woodland's road to the Kelvin, on the west
through the West End park to Kelvingrove-street,
and on the south bySauchiehaH-street to St. George's
road, which includes within it some of the best
habitations in the city, and the whole being occupied
by persons in the best circumstances, and contain-
ing an area of 87-686 imperial acres." Dr. Strang
then gives two tables, and adds, — " By carefully ex-
amining these tables, it will at once be seen how
much the vitality and mortality of our race depend
on the social circumstances in which man is placed.
Looking at the social peculiarities of Blackfriar's,
we discover that its population, amounting to
10,577, occupy 1,427 dwellings under £4 of annual
rent, 684 under £6, 273 under £10, 88 under £20,
and only 19, with the exception of the 10 houses
within the College gates, and two inns and one large
tavern, at from .£20 to £70 of rent. Turning then
to the social peculiarities of the Crescent quarter,
we find the population, amounting to 2.972, occupy
only 4 dwellings under £10, 121 from £10 to £60,
and the remaining 296 from £60 to £100 and up-
wards. In the former there is only 1 female domes-
tic servant to 67 '8 of the population, whereas in the
latter there is 1 in 2'8 ; and as to male domestic ser-
vants, there is in Blackfriar's none, and in the Cres-
cents, &c, 1 to 60'6 of the inhabitants. These figures
at once sufficiently explain the poverty and discom-
fort of the one district in comparison to the wealth
and conveniences of the other, with all the degrada-
tion and wretchedness which attend on the one, and
the physical blessings which are connected with
the other.
" Now, what are the effects which these dissimilar
circumstances have produced, especially on the
death-figure applicable to each of these localities?
The answer is simple. They have produced in
Blackfriar's on the annual births a death-rate under
1 year of no less than 21'3 per cent., and on the liv-
ing from 1 to 5 of 9'5 per cent., whereas in the
Crescent quarter, the death-rate to the annual births
is only 1-96 per cent., and from 1 to 5, only 1'4 per
cent. The deaths from 5 and upwards are in the
former 1-79 percent., in the latter 0'44 per cent.,
while taking the deaths at all ages, we find that
they arc in the one 3"4 per cent., in the other only
0"53 per cent. These figures certainly proclaim a
vast disparity between the mortality of these two
quarters of our city; but when the elements that
produce this are more narrowly looked into, a cer-
tain portion of it is easily explained. In the first
place, in the Crescent district there are far fewer
births in proportion to the population than in Black-
friars, on which the normal high death-figure ever
presses most heavily. In the second place, more
than one-third of the population consists of female
domestic servants, of an age which, in all situations,
and far more in theirs, produces the smallest figure
of mortality ; and thirdly, the annual habit of the
generality of the inhabitants of the West-End
quarter leaving the city for nearly six months in
the year for the coast or country, must also tend to
diminish the death- figure of this district. Allowing,
however, for all these advantages which the Cres-
cent quarter possesses over the Blackfriar's district,
it is quite certain that the probabilities of obtaining
a longer lease of life on the part of the inhabitants
of the western over the eastern district, is manifest.
And when we compare the Crescent quarter with
the whole city, of which it forms a part, we find its
GLASGOW.
r87
GLASGOW.
death ratios still exhibiting a marvellous disparity.
Uuro are the figures : —
Crescents, ifcc.
Whole City
Under 1,
From 1 to 5
„ 5 to 'JO
„ an to go
„ 60 and upw
1 in 50
1 ,. VI
1 „ 288
1 „ -JOS
.litis, 1 „ 41
1 in 5-2.5
1 „ 14-49
1 „ KIS-40
1 „ 0734
1 „ 13-50 '
Offences. — The cases brought before the magis-
trates during 1861, for offences against the person,
were 53 males and 9 females; for offences against
property, with violence, 187 males and 50 females;
for offences against property, without violence, 1,979
males and 1,856 females; for malicious offences
against property, 92 males and 7 females; for for-
gery and offences against the currency, 2-1 males
and 20 females; for being drunk and disorderly,
1,970 males and 54S females; for being drunk and
incapable, 3,871 males and 205 females. The num-
ber of criminal prisoners committed to Glasgow
prison, during the year 1860-1, was 2,192 males
and 1,684 females ; and the average daily number in
custody was 233 males and 215 females. Of the
total of males committed, 149 were under 16 years
of age, 96 were from 16 to 18 years of age, 1,35S were
Scotch. 143 were English, 660 were Irish, and 31
were foreigners; and of the total of females com-
mitted, 38 were under 16 years of age, 69 were from
16 to 18 years of age, 1,139 were Scotch, 54 were
English, 484 were Irish, and 7 were foreigners.
The number of civil prisoners, or debtors, committed
during the year 1860-1 was 178 males and 11
females.
Social Manners. — Up to the period of the Refor-
mation, and, indeed, for long after it, the major part
of the inhabitants may bo said to have existed in a
state of ignorance, poverty, and barbarism. Intes-
tine feuds were frequent; the people went con-
stantly armed; it was no unusual thing for the
ministers of religion to ascend the pulpit with
dagger, sword, or pistol on their persons ; crimes
which are now thought of with horror were of fre-
quent occurrence ; and such was the state of society
that private revenge as frequently inflicted the
punishment of aggression as the arm of the law.
The Reformation undoubtedly laid the foundation
of improvement; but the civil troubles and contests
by which it was followed, sadly marred the civiliz-
ing effects which might otherwise have flowed from
it. It would appear that even the better class of
people were not free from the ignorance and super-
stition which oppressed their humbler fellow-
citizens; for we find that, so late as 1698, "the
magistrates of Glasgow granted an allowance to
the jailer for keeping warlocks and witches im-
prisoned in the tolbooth, by order of the Lords
commissioners of justiciary." In its ignorance,
barbarity, poverty, and filth, it is not to be presumed
that Glasgow was in a worse position than any
other town of Scotland, with the exception of the
capital, which, from being the seat of the legislature
and the residence of the aristocracy, had pretensions
to refinement which were awanting elsewhere.
The Union, in 1707, which opened up the English
colonies to the Scots, was the first event which
materially contributed to an alteration for the better
in the character and disposition of the inhabitants
of Glasgow; and we find that shortly after this
period they adopted manners only equalled in the
intensity of their austerity by the latitude of their
former dissoluteness.
Regarding the state of society at this early period
Mr. ljugald Bann.ityne lias recorded: — "At the com-
mencement of the 18th century, and during the
greater part of the first half of it, the habits and
style of living of the citizens of Glasgow were of
a moderate and frugal cast. The dwelling-houses
of the highest class of citizens, in general contained
only one public room, — a dining-room; and even that
was used only when they had company, — the family
at other times usually eating in a bed-room. The
great-grandfathers and great-grandmothers of many
of the present luxurious aristocracy of Glasgow —
and who were themselves descendants of a preced-
ing line of burgher patricians — lived in this simple
manner. They had occasionally their relations din-
ing with them, and gave them a few plain dishes
all put on the table at once, holding in derision the
attention which they said their neighbours the
English bestowed on what they ate. After dinner,
the husband went to his place of business, and in
the evening to a club in a public house, where, with
little expense, he enjoyed himself till nine o'clock,
at which hour the party uniformly broke up, and
the husbands went home to their families.
"The wealth introduced into their community
after the Union, opening the British colonies to the
Scotch, gradually led to a change of the habits and
style of living of the citizens. About the year 1735,
several individuals built houses to be occupied
solely by themselves, in place of dwelling on a floor
entering from a common stair as they hitherto had
done. This change, however, proceeded very
slowly; and up to the year 1755 to 1760, very few
of these single bouses had been built — the greater
part of the most wealthy inhabitants continuing, to
a much later period, to occupy floors in very many
cases containing only one public room. After the
year 1740, the intercourse of society was by evening
parties never exceeding twelve or fourteen persons,
invited to tea and supper. They met at four, and
after tea played cards till nine, when they supped.
Their games were whist and quadrille. The gentle-
men attended these parties, and did not go away
with the ladies after supper, but continued to sit
with the landlord drinking punch to a very late
hour. The gentlemen frequently had dinner parties
in their own houses; but it was not till a much
later period that the great business of visiting was
attempted to be carried on by dinner parties. The
dinner hour, about the year 1770, was two o'clock;
immediately after that, it came to three o'clock;
and gradually became later and later, till abuut
1818 it reached six o'clock.
" Influenced by a regard for the Sabbath, the
magistrates employed persons termed 'compurga-
tors' to perambulate the city on the Saturday
nights; and when, at the approach of twelve
o'clock, these inquisitors happened to hear any
noisy conviviality going on, even in a private
dwelling-house, they entered it and dismissed the
company. Another office of these compurgators
was to perambulate the streets and public walks
during the time of divine service on Sunday, and to
order every person they met abroad not on neces-
sary duty, to go home, and if they refused to obey
to take them into custody. The employment of
these compurgators was continued till about the
middle of the century, when, taking Mr. Peter
Blackburn — father of Mr. Blackburn of Killearn —
into custody for walking on Sunday in the Green,
he prosecuted the magistrates for an unwarranted
exercise of authority, and prevailing in his suit in
the court of session, the attempt to compel this ob-
servance was abandoned."
Up till 1750 the severity of the ancient manners
prevailed in full vigour. People, as has been stated,
were prevented from walking on the Lord's day;
no lamps were lighted on that evening, because it
GLASGOW.
(88
GLASGOW
was presumed tliat no man liad any business to be
out of his own house after sunset ; the indulgences
or innocent amusements of life "were either un-
known or little practised. But by this time com-
merce and manufactures had produced wealth ; and
the establishment of banks had increased the sup-
ply of money, and enlarged the ideas of the people
both as regarded their manner of living and their
schemes of improvement. A new and expensive
style was now introduced into building, living,
dress, and furniture ; the conveniences and ele-
gances of life began to be studied ; wheel carriages
were set up; places of entertainment were fre-
quented ; and, at once to get rid of the austerity
and stern restrictions of former times, a theatre and
assembly room were built by subscription. Not
only Glasgow, but the west of Scotland generally,
had been enriched by the colonial trade ; and as a
consequence of it, new streets were laid out in the
city, the old wooden tenements with thatched roofs
were displaced for commodious stone mansions, and
the progress of refinement, and it may be said, of
luxury, lias advanced to the present time. In all the
elements of good living and refinement, the better
class of the citizens of Glasgow have improved
mightily since the beginning of the present century;
and it may be truly stated that the wealthy popula-
tion of the localities in the west end lead a life in
which " ne'er a want may be ungratified," and are
in possession of luxuries which were unknown to
the majority of the Scottish nobles even seventy
years ago. The introduction of steam navigation
has brought the fairy nooks, bays, and crooks of
the western coast within a few hours' sail of the
city, and there are few of the merchants, manu-
facturers, or professional gentlemen who have not
summer villas or ornate cottages perched upon the
water's edge at Gourock, Helensburgh, Gareloch,
Kilcreggan, Cove, Lochgoil, Strone, Kilmun, Du-
noon, Inellan, Wemyss-bay, Skelmorlie, Rothesay,
Largs, Millport, Ardrossan, Arran, or other places
on the frith. These are laid out with every regard
to taste, with blooming parterres without, and ele-
gance within ; and it is scarcely possible for a hum-
ble citizen to pass them either on foot or in steamers
without aspirating,
" Oh that for me some home like this would smile."
While thus much has been stated of the sunny
portion of Glasgow society, it is only fair to present
the dark side of the picture. This city, like Dublin,
embraces to a remarkable extent the very extremes
of wealth and misery. Some places in the very heart
of it, particularly the wynds to the south of Tron-
gate, the closes of Bridgegate and Saltmarket, and
the closes and vennels leading from High-street,
contain an aggregate of disease, vice, and misery,
which is not exceeded by that of any equally popu-
lous portions of any other city in the empire. A
large proportion of the population of these places
are Irish, or the children of Irish, who, from the
facilities afforded by steam navigation, were induced
to flee from wretchedness in their own country to
a state of things little better in the land of the
stranger; and other portions are low squalid out-
casts from all parts of the United Kingdom, where
they could not make shift to live, or were unable to
maintain a creditable footing. This state of things,
in these quarters, both physically and socially, for
a long time was appalling; but, since about the
year 1845, has been undergoing steady, progressive,
general amelioration. Some wretched blocks of
dwellings have given place to new buildings;
sweeping sanitary improvements have been made;
and strong influences on at once manners, educa-
tion, and religion, have been brought to bear. Other
poor parts of the city also, which share largely in
the degradation and misery of these localities, have
participated equally in similar improvements. The
operative classes, in most parts, are far the pre-
dominating element of population, — in some parts,
almost the only element ; and considered in a
general view, they exhibit an amount of industri-
ousness, intelligence, good manners, and moral
worth, highly creditable to- the city.
GLASGOW AND GARNKIRK RAILWAY,
a work now forming the greater part of the portion
of the Caledonian railway between Glasgow and
Coatbridge. It was the first railway constructed
in Scotland for the purpose of conveying both goods
and passengers by locomotive engine power. It
was fully opened for traffic in September, 1831 ; and
the ceremony of opening it was done in the manner
of a grand public spectacle, and excited much pop-
ular interest. The railway caused great changes
in the country around its east end, acting as a
powerful stimulus in the developing of resources;
and it was soon put into communication with other
railways which opened up to Glasgow the greater
part of the large mineral field of Lanarkshire. It
became vested in the Caledonian railway company
in 1845. See Caledonian Railway.
GLASGOW AND SOUTH-WESTERN RAIL-
WAY, a work comprising the Glasgow, Paisley,
Kilmarnock, and Ayr railway, and the Glasgow,
Dumfries, and Carlisle railway, together with their
respective connexions. Each of the principal com-
prised works will be separately described under its
own title. The conjoint rail way was opened through-
out as to its main line, and underwent legal amal-
gamation as to component parts, on the 28th October,
1850. It has a total length of 225 miles ; it extends
from Glasgow by way of Paisley, Kilmarnock, and
Dumfries, to a junction with the Caledonian rail-
way near Gretna; it also sends off communications,
either in blanches of its own or in connected rail-
ways, to Ardrossan, Ayr, Troon, Dalmellington,
Girvan, Newmilns, Mayfield, and Muirkirk; and it
has junctions at Dumfries with the railway west-
ward to Castle -Douglas and Port-Patrick, and with
the railway eastward, to be opened in the Slimmer
of 1863, to the Caledonian at Lockerby.
GLASGOW, BARRHEAD, AND NEILSTON
RAILWAY, a railway from the southern terminus
of the Caledonian railway at Glasgow to the valley
of the Levern in Renfrewshire. It was authorised
in August, 1845, and afterwards incorporated with
another project, called the Glasgow Southern ter-
minal railway, which gave it a communication and
a common terminus with the southern fork of the
Caledonian railway. Its authorised form was a
length of 6 miles and 5 furlongs, with double line
of rails, and a gradient of 1 in 100 to Barrhead, and
a farther length of 2 miles and 8 chains, with single
line, and a gradient of 1 in 75 to Crofthead, near
Neilston. It has stations at Pollockshaws, Kinnis-
head, Nittshill, Barrhead, and Crofthead. The
worst curve, except at stations, has a radius of 14
chains. This railway is leased and worked by the
Caledonian railway company.
GLASGOW, DUMFRIES, AND CARLISLE
RAILWAY, the southern part of the Glasgow
and South-western railway system, extending from
Cumnock in Ayrshire to the junction with the main
trunk of the Caledonian railway near Gretna in
Dumfries-shire. It was authorised by parliament
in 1846, and opened for traffic in October, 1850. It
is 65 miles in length. It goes down the valley of
the Nith, from near its head in the vicinity of New
Cumnock, all the way to a point past Dumfries, and
then deflects across the foot of Nithsdale and of
GLASGOW.
789
GLASGOW.
Annandale, and along the sea-board of the Sohvay
frith to the basin of the Sark. It has stations at
New Cumnock, Kirkeonnel, Sanquhar, Carronbridge,
Thornhill, Closeburn, Auldgirth, Holywoofl, Dum-
fries, Euthwell, Cummertrees, Annan, and Gretna-
green. The viaduct across the Lugar at Cumnock
is a remarkably magnificent work, but has been
already noticed in our article on Cumnock. The
railway first approaches the Nith in the vicinity
of New Cumnock, takes there the left bank of the
river, continues down that bank all the way to Dal-
swinton 7J miles above Dumfries, returns to it by a
fine viaduct at Lincluden about a mile above Dum-
fries, and continues on it till the commencement of its
deflection past Dumfries towards Annandale. Often
and long, throughout the aggregate, does it keep
close to the river ; and rarely at any point between
New Cumnock and Dumfries, is it farther from the
channel than about a mile. Hence will both the
scenery which it commands and the nature of the
engineering difficulties which were overcome for it
be well understood by reference to our article on the
Nith. The close views from it between Kirkeonnel
and Carronbridge, and again about Auldgirth, are
particularly fine ; and a comparatively large view
at and near Thornhill, comprising a wide expansion
of the river's basin, with magnificent hill-screens,
is remarkably brilliant. A tunnel 4,200 feet long,
nearly 200 feet under ground, with an archway of
27 feet by 29, occurs a little north of the Carron-
bridge station. The tract from Dumfries to Gretna,
though mainly a plain, comprises three miles across
Lochar-moss, and commands elsewhere some good
views, particularly about the Annan and the Kirtle.
The authorised capital for this railway, by the ori-
ginal powers of 1846, was £433,333 by shares, and
£433,300 by loans; and by an act of next year,
£700,000 and £233,300. The Glasgow and South-
western amalgamation act in 1847 was to raise
£900,000 of tliis capital.
GLASGOW, KILMARNOCK, AND ARDROS-
SAN RAILWAY. In 1S46, an act of incorpora-
tion was obtained, with authorised capital of
£1,117,333, for forming a railway direct to Kilmar-
nock from the south-western terminus of the Glas-
gow, Barrhead, and Neilston railway, with one
branch to the Ardrossan railway, and another branch
to Irvine, and for the purchase of Ardrossan har-
bour; but, by an act passed in June, 1852, the project
was abandoned.
GLASGOW, PAISLEY, AND GREENOCK
RAILWAY. This railway was authorised by act
of parliament in July 1837, and opened to the public
on the 30th of March, 1841. The original author-
ised capital for it was £400,000 in shares and
£133,333 in loans; but this fell materially short of
the cost of production, and was afterwards augmented.
The work, after some years, was amalgamated
with the Caledonian railway, at a reduced capital
ot." £649,421 ; and the total expenditure upon it till
the 31st of July, 1853, amounted to £856,458. This
railway is now worked, in all respects, as an inte-
gral part of the Caledonian : and the part of it from
Glasgow to Paisley is common to it with the Glas-
gow, Paisley, Kilmarnock, and Ayr railway, or
Glasgow and South-western. The station-houses
at Glasgow and at Paisley also are in common. The
Glasgow station-house is a splendid, costly edifice,
of white sandstone, with handsome portico and
stately columns in front, and with very commodious
interior arrangements, recently enlarged, within 80
yards of the south end of the lowest and most
thronged of the Glasgow bridges. The Paisley
station-house resembles in style the imposing
Munty-buildings of Renfrewshire, in the centre of j
Paisley, and is situated in the large open space in
front of these buildings, as centrically and beauti-
fully as any railway station for a great town could
possibly be.
The railway, on leaving the Glasgow station,
passes through Tradeston, by a curve, on a series
of brick arches, sufficiently high and neat to pre-
sent no obstruction to the street thoroughfares; but
the curve is so sudden from a southerly to a westerly
direction that, were it to occur anywhere but in the
immediate vicinity of the station, where the trains
are necessarily all at slow speed, it might prove
both inconvenient and dangerous. It soon ap-
proaches the Glasgow, Paisley, and Johnstone canal,
and is joined by a connecting branch of the Cale-
donian railway from the Clydesdale junction. It
goes so close to the canal as to be separated only by
the breadth of the latter's towing-path; and it
continues nearly parallel with it for about a mile,
but on a level of 8 or 10 feet lower. The railway
then keeps a perfectly straight course of its own till
within half-a-mile of Arkleston tunnel. It then
curves gently to the south, and by means of the
tunnel, which is 60 feet below the highest part of
the surface, passes beneath Arkleston -hill. A
gentle curve brings the railway to the Greenlaw
policies, where an extensive view of the eastern
parts of Paisley is opened up, and continues till the
arrival at the station-house in Paisley. At Arkle-
ston, the cutting extends to about three quarters of
a mile, gradually diminishing from between 50 and
60 feet at the east end of the tunnel, towards each
end. The only other cutting on this part of the
line worth notice, is at Ibrox, where it extends to
a rather greater length than that at Arkleston, but
is not so deep. In the space between Glasgow and
Paisley, the line is crossed by ten bridges, besides
which, in addition to the arches and bridges at the
terminus, four roadways are formed beneath it.
The railway enters Paisley on a high level, and
crosses all the streets on lofty bridges, till it
reaches the river Cart in the centre of the town ; and
it there passes that river by a noble arch of 85 feet
span, and has the platform of its station on a cor-
respondingly high level. The run from Glasgow
to Paisley, short though it is, being only 7 miles in
length, is a very pleasing and attractive one. The
Campsie and Kilpatrick hills are seen in the dis-
tance, with the "Braes o' Gleniffer," which Tan-
nahill has wedded to song; and still nearer is ob-
served the Stratford-upon-Avon-like steeple of
Govan church, with all the charming alternations
in the landscape, of wood, hill, dale, and streamlet.
It is true that the traveller only gets a glimpse of
these for a moment as he is whisked along ; but the
motion is not so rapid as to render him unconscious
that he is passing through a most interesting and
luxuriant district of country.
After crossing Moss-street in Paisley, the Glas-
gow and Greenock line curves away to the west.
A handsome viaduct of 28 arches of 20 feet span,
and a skew bridge over Underwood-street, carries
the line clear of Paisley. The retaining walls are,
however, continued for some distance; when the
line proceeds on a light embankment past Blaek-
stone-house, which it leaves on the left. The river
Cart is here crossed by a wooden-bridge, the nature
of the foundations rendering that material necessary.
After passing the river Gryfe on a similar erection,
the railway proceeds over a deep moss for the dis-
tance of a mile and a quarter; and going through
two cuttings of the depth of 43 feet and 30 feet re-
spectively, and over a heavy intervening embank-
ment, enters the Bishopton ridge. This is the
geatest work on the line, and is perhaps unparalleled
GLASGOW.
790
GLASGOW.
in the kingdom. The ridge is composed of solid
whinstone rock; and the railway passes through it
for a distance of 2,300 yards. In blasting this ob-
durate ridge of rock, 320 tons of gunpowder were
expended, costing more than £12,000. Leaving
this cutting, the river Clyde, with Dumbarton rook
and castle, the classic Benlomond, and the entire
range of the Argyleshire hills, burst on the view
with panoramic effect; and from this point till it
reaches Port-Glasgow the railway skirts the river.
The beautiful scenery of the noble stream and
estuary is seen to striking advantage from various
portions of the line. Port-Glasgow is approached
by a viaduct of 14 stone arches of 30 feet span,
which crosses a small bay, now used as a timber-
depot. The railway nearly divides the town. The
station for Port-Glasgow is at the head of Prince's-
street. The streets are spanned by arches as in
Paisley. There is nothing worthy of particular
notice, till the line approaches Greenock, where,
passing through a heavy cutting of 44 feet deep, it
enters the town. The railway divides a large
engineering work at this point; and all the streets,
except Bogle-street, are spanned by bridges. The
Greenock station is in Cathcart-street, nearly facing
East Quay lane, and at only a brief distance from
the steam-boat quay. The station-house here has
a neat front and elegant accommodations; and the
places connected with it, all round the platform,
backward for repairing shops, and divergently for
the goods traffic, display a spaciousness, a tasteful-
ness, and an adaptation eminently creditable to the
designers.
The length of the line from Glasgow to Greenock
is 22J miles. It passes through the parishes of
Govan, Abbey-Paisley, North-Paisley, Kilbarchan,
Inchinnan, Erskine, Kilmalcolm, Port-Glasgow,
and East-Grcenock. Its stations, exclusive of the
termini, are Paisley, Houston, Bishopton, Lang-
bank, and Port-Glasgow. The greatest amount of
rock-cutting in one spot is 244,000 yards; and the
heaviest embankment contains 146,508 yards of this
debris. The gradients are favourable. Between
Glasgow and Paisley the line is nearly level; and
until it approaches Bishopton, on either side the
inclinations are favourable. To gain the summit-
level of this ridge, the road rises 1 in 330, and de-
scends at the same rate. The quantity of masonry
on the line is unusually great, owing to the circum-
stance of four towns being traversed in so short a
distance. The retaining walls extend to several
miles, and there are nearly 400 arches, exclusive of
culverts. Many of the bridges are very elegant in
their design, particularly the Cart bridge at Paisley,
and the arch over the deep cutting at Cartsburn-hill
near Greenock. The Underwood-street bridge and
South Croft-street bridge in Paisley, the former in
stone at an angle of 28°, and the latter in iron at an
angle of 17°, are specimens of engineering skill and
boldness rarely to be met with. The rails are
heavy, being 75 pounds to the yard ; and there is a
four-foot bearing, which being less than many
others by a foot, renders the road peculiarly firm.
The line is laid on wooden sleepers, where there are
high embankments; in all other parts — excepting
the moss, where wood is also used — stone blocks
are employed with very strong iron chains.
GLASGOW, PAISLEY, AND JOHNSTONE
CANAL. The origin of this work has been
narrated in our article on Ardrossan. The act
of parliament for making the canal was ob-
tained in 1805; the first general meeting of
the canal company was held at Paisley in July
1806; the operations were commenced in May
1807; the navigation between Paisley and John-
stone was opened in November 1810; and the
navigation between Glasgow and Paisley was
opened in October 1811. The canal was intended
to be cut to Ardrossan, but was never cut farther
than to Johnstone. It commences at Fort-Eglinton,
at the south-western extremity of the Gorbals sub-
burb of Glasgow, and proceeds in a direction nearly
due west, though with considerable curves, through
the parishes of Govan, Abbey-Paisley, and Kil-
barchan, and impinging at one point on the parish
of Eastwood. Its total length from Port-Eglinton
to Johnstone is 11 miles. Its breadth at the top is
30 feet; its breadth at the bottom is 18 feet; and its
depth is Ah feet. It passes through two tunnels at
Paisley, the one under Causewayside-street, 240
feet long, the other at the west end of the town, 210
feet long. Its chief aqueduct is over the Cart at
Paisley, 240 feet long, 27 feet broad, 30 feet high,
with a fine arch of 84 feet in span. The whole
work is on such level ground that it has not a single
lock; though, had it been continued to Ardrossan,
eight locks would have been required a little be-
yond Johnstone to raise it to the summit-level of
the country at Kilbirnie loch, and thirteen to let it
down thence to the sea-level at Ardrossan harbour.
Several brooks between Paisley and Johnstone
supply the canal with water.
The cost of constructing the canal from Glasgow
to Johnstone was not less than about £130,000, a
sum actually greater than what had been estimated
as the cost all the way to Ardrossan. The traffic
in goods was from the first considerable. A pas-
senger-traffic also sprang up at once in elegant
heavy boats fitted up each for accommodating 100
persons; and this traffic was afterwards greatly in-
creased by means of light gig-boats which achieved
the distance from Glasgow to Paisley within an
hour. The goods traffic rose from a tonnage of
48,191 in the year 1831 to a tonnage of 70,393 in
the year 1840; and the passenger- traffic rose from
79,455 persons in 1831 to 423,186 persons in 1836.
The canal company made an agreement, in June
1843, with the company of the Glasgow, Paisley,
and Greenock railway, and the company of the
Glasgow, Paisley, Kilmarnock, and Ayr railway,
not to carry passengers at greater speed on the
canal than 4 miles per hour, to pay to the railway
companies 2d. per mile for every passenger carried
on the canal, and to maintain certain other ob-
structions to the facility of the canal traffic, the
railway companies binding themselves to pay to the
canal company £1,358 a-year as compensation so
long as the agreement should be maintained. But
the Commissioners of railways, in 1847, reported
that this agreement was injurious to the interests
of Paisley; the law officers of the Crown gave an
opinion that it was illegal ; and the companies in-
terested, on being threatened with proceedings for
forcibly dissolving it, dissolved it of their own
accord.
GLASGOW, PAISLEY, KILMARNOCK, AND
AYR RAILWAY, the northern and most rami-
fied part of the Glasgow and South-western railway
system. It extends from the general station on the
south side of the Clyde at Glasgow bridge, by way
of Paisley and Irvine, to Ayr, with junction to the
Ardrossan railway, and with branches of its own to
Troon and to Dalmellington ; extends also, by fork of
the main line, through Kilmarnock, to Cumnock
with branches to Newinilns and to Muirkirk ; various
parts of it, at the same time, communicating by brief
side-lines or sub-bianches, with great seats of the
iron trade or other manufacture. The original main
line was that to Ayr, and has a total length, from
Glasgow, of 40 miles; but the entire system requires
GLASGOW.
ft)l
GLASS.
Hie line to Ayr and the line to Cumnock to be re-
girded as co-ordinate forks, and measures 1 0G| miles.
The original project was authorized by parliament
in July, 1837; a portion of the line, from Irvine to
Ayr, was opened for traffic in August, 1839; the
whole of the original main line, from Glasgow to
Ayr, was opened in August, 1840; and the other
parts of the works were formed and opened at succes-
sive periods, till the completion of the entire Glas-
gow and South-western system in October, 1850.
The part of this railway from Glasgow to Paisley
is the same as that of the Glasgow, Paisley, and
Greenock railway. On leaving Paisley the line
proceeds, by Ferguslie and Elderslie, to the John-
stone station, a distance of 3 miles, in which there
are some very heavy embankments. From John-
stone the line proceeds by Howood. Kilbarchan, and
Castle-semple to Lochwinnoch, a distance oi'5 miles,
in which there are considerable cuttings. Here the
gradients are respectively 1 in 600 at Howood, 1 in
1,200 at Castle-semple, and level at Lochwinnoch.
A peep of the beautiful loch, the property of Colonel
Harvie, is obtained, and the adjacent country, which
is the seat of a busy manufacturing hive, is rich in
minerals. From Lochwinnoch to Beilh, the distance
is 4 miles, with an ascending gradient of 1 in 1,200
for a mile, and 1 in 2,000 for 3 miles. In this part
of the line is situated the Muirburn meadow or
" sinking bog, " which long baffled all the efforts
of the contractors and the company to find a solid
foundation for the blocks. The soft or boggy part
of the ground extended to a depth of 45 feet, and for
a length of time the embankment subsided as rapidly
as it was formed. The quantity of soil which it
swallowed up is almost incredible ; but at length
the difficulty was overcome, and the blocks and rails
laid upon a strong and firm foundation of piles.
From the Beith station to Kilbirnie is one mile upon
a level — the line running for a considerable space
along the side of Kilbirnie loch, which, however, is
rather a tame and uninteresting sheet of water ; but
at this point is situated the greatest rise upon the
railroad, the ascent having been 70 feet in 20 miles;
and from this centre station, the descent continues
gradually to the terminus at Ayr. From Kilbirnie
station to Dairy the distance is 3 miles, the gradient
for 2 miles being 1 in 1,200, the other level; and the
country is rich in mineral wealth, containing both
coal and ironstone. From Dairy to Kilwinning the
line extends six miles, at an average gradient of 1
in 440, passing through a very beautiful country,
and crossing the Garnock water twice. The town
of Kilwinning, with the ruins of its old abbey, is
seen to the left; and near this is the junction of the
Ardrossan railway, which deflects to the south-west,
through a tract of low sandy downs, to Stevenston,
Saltcoats, and Ardrossan. The main line proceeds
from this junction, straight forward, in a southerly
direction, upon a level to Irvine; where harbour,
ship- building yards, mineral traffic, and a considera-
ble town trade form an important link in the gen-
eral chain of communication. From Irvine onward
to the terminus at Ayr, the line runs close upon the
sea-shore, the gradients being frequently level, and
never more than 1 in 1,000. The view is a very
cheering one, embracing the eastern shores of the
island of Arran, and the intervening course of the
steam and sailing vessels from Liverpool and Ireland
to Greenock and Glasgow. At the Troon station,
which is 3 miles distant from Irvine, and 33 from
Glasgow, a branch proceeds to the sea-port and wet-
docks of Troon; while, in the opposite direction, the
Kilmarnock and Troon railway goes off toward Kil-
marnock, with intermediate stations at Barrassie,
Dry bridge, and Gatehead. From the Troon station,
the line proceeds by an easy descending gradation,
past the stations of Monkton and Prestwiek, and past
the junction of the Smithstown and Dalmellington
railway, to the terminus at Ayr. The station-house
here resembles that of Glasgow by being close to
the harbour, and to the principal bridge over the
river, connecting the chief divisions of the town, and
leading to the centre of business.
The fork toward Kilmarnock, Cumnock, and Dum
fries, goes off at the Dairy junction, 23 miles from
Glasgow. It proceeds along an embankment, with
its rising hill-side on the one hand, and a steep
retaining wall on the other; and thence it traverses
a diversity of ground, past Stewarton station to Kil-
marnock. This stretch is 10i miles in length, and
was opened for traffic in March, 1843. It rises 1
foot in 880 in the first 8 miles, and is level thence
to Kilmarnock ; and it has twelve viaducts over
streams and roads, the largest of which is over the
river Garnock. The line proceeds from Kilmarnock
2 miles to Hurlford, the seat of the Portland iron-
works, begun in June, 184G; sends off a branch up
Irvine water, to Galston and Newmilns, with sub-
branch to Mayfield ; and goes on 7 J miles from
Hurlford to Mauehline- 2 miles beyond which, over
the river Ayr, occurs its magnificent Ballochmyle
viaduct, one of the most superb pieces of railway
work in the kingdom. This is a single arch 100 feet
wide, and 95 feet high, " thrown from bank to bank
of the sheer sandstone cliffs, embowered like walls
of solid masonry, or Cyclopean relics, amidst the
profuse beauty of trees luxuriantly nodding over the
clear deep waters of the river." The railway, 2J
miles farther on. reaches the Auchinleck station,
and sti!l 2 miles farther, the Cumnock station, where
it passes into the Glasgow, Dumfries, and Carlisle
railway. But at Auchinleck, a branch of 10 miles
in length goes off eastward, through Airsmoss and
the Kyle moors to Muirkirk, as desolate a region as
ever has been opened up by any railway, but stand-
ing high in value for its mineral wealth.
GLASGOW SOUTHERN TERMINAL PAIL-
WAY. See Glasgow, Barrhead, akd Neilston
Railway.
GLASLAW BURN, a small tributary of the Car-
ron, in the parish of Dunnottar, Kincardineshire.
A low height adjacent to it bears the name of Glas-
law hill.
GLASNOCK WATER, a rivulet of Kyle, in Ayr-
shire. It issues from a lake on the southern boundary
of the parish of Old Cumnock, and runs northward
to the town of Cumnock, which it intersects, and
immediately afterwards falls into the Lugar.
GLASS, a parish partly in Aberdeenshire and
partly in Banffshire. It has a post-office station of
its own name, 6 miles west-south-west of Hunt!)'.
It is bounded on the north by Cairnie parish; on the
east by Huntly and Gartly ; on the south by Cabrach ;
and on the west by Botriphnie and Keith. Its ex-
tent, from north-east to south-west, is about 5 miles;
and from north-west to south-cast somewhat more
than 4. The river Deveron traverses the whole ex-
tent of its interior north-eastward, with a rapid cur-
rent, along a deep narrow vale. The general surface
of the parish is a congeries of hills, partially moor-
ish, but prevailingl)' pastoral, with fine green sward;
and is supposed to have derived its name from their
verdant appearance, the word " Glass " signifying
green. The height of the hills above sea-level pro-
bably ranges from 1,200 to 2,000 feet. They look
from many points of view to occupy the whole par-
ish ; but there lie among them, especially along the
Deveron, considerable stripes and patches of arable
land. The entire area under cultivation is about
3,600 acres, and under wood about 150 acres. The
GLASS.
792
GLASSERTON.
soil is in general a deep loam, tolerably early on the
river-side; but in those parts which lie at a distance
from it, the harvest is very precarious, especially in
cold wet seasons. The Earl of Fife is the most ex-
tensive landowner. The yearly value of raw pro-
duce was estimated in 1842, at £8,400. Assessed
property in 18C0, £2,108. Population in 1831,
932; in 1861, 1,049. Houses, 194. Population of
the Aberdeenshire section in 1831, 579; in 1861,
683. Houses, 122.
This parish is in the presbytery of Strathbogie,
and synod of Moray. Patron, the Duke of Rich-
mond. Stipend, £226 18s. Id. ; glebe, £10. Un-
appropriated teinds, £217 8s. 8d. Schoolmaster's
salary, £60, with £7 fees, and a share in the
Dick bequest. The parish church was built in
1782, and contains 550 sittings. There is a Free
church : attendance, 250 ; sum raised in 1865, £86
14s. 8d. There is a private school. The original
parish of Glass was small ; but was enlarged by one
annexation, in the 13th or 14th century, from the
parish of Mortlaeh, and by another, about the end
of the 17th century, from the then parish of Dmm-
delzie or Potterkirk, now incorporated with Cairnie.
GLASS ( Island). See Glass- Ellan.
GLASS (Loch), a lake in the parish of Kiltearn,
Ross-shire. It extends east-south-eastward about 5
miles, with an average breadth of about 1 mile, to
a point 10 miles north-north-west of Dingwall, and
there discharges itself toward the Cromarty frith by
the river Aultgrande. It is seldom known to be
covered with ice, and must therefore have a con-
siderable depth. Near the lower end of it is a small
island, where the lairds of Fowlis had at one time a
summer-house.
GLASS (The), a river of the north-east of Inver-
ness-shire. It issues from Loch Affrick, on the
mutual boundary of the parishes of Kilmorack and
Kiltarlity, and runs about 16 miles north-eastward,
with diversity of current, and some fine cataracts
and falls, along a picturesque glen, to form the river
Beauly by confluence with the Farrer. It often, in
its upper stretches, bears the name of the Affrick;
and yet it gives the name of Strathglass, not only
to all the portion of the glen from Loch Affrick to
the confluence with the Farrer, but also to the por-
tion traversed by the Beauly. See Affrick (Loch),
Beauly (The), and Strathglass.
GLASSARY, or Kilmichael- Glassary, a par-
ish, containing the post-town of Lochgilphead, and
the post-office station of Glassary, in the district of
Argyle-proper, Argyleshire. It is bounded by Loch
Fyne on the south and south-east, by Loch Awe
and part of the parish of Kilmartin on the north-
west and north, by the parishes of Inverary and
Dalavich on the east and north-east, and by those
of Kilmartin, North Knapdale, and South Knapdale
on the west and south-west. It varies from 8 to 10
miles in breadth, and from 12 to 16 miles in length.
It is said to consist of 150 square miles, or 75,000
Scotch acres; and it is divided into 225J merk
lands. It stretches along Loch Fyne for 16 miles,
from the stream called Leachdau at the Furnace,
which divides it from the parish of Inverary, to the
stream south and close to the town of Lochgilphead,
which separates it from South Knapdale on the one
side ; and on the other it extends along the banks
of Loch Awe for 8 miles, from the stream on the
east side of the farm of Brahhalaich to the Ford.
On the west the valley of Glassary extends nearly
from side to side of the parish. This valley varies
in height from 200 to near 600 feet above the level
of the sea; also in breadth and in fertility, having
its acclivities on either side partially wooded, and a
Hinall lake called Lochan Leamhan, near its centre.
It also varies the character of the parish scenery,
by terminating or interrupting the extensive tract ot
hill and moss which reaches from the shores of Loch
Fyne to those of Loch Awe. There are very many
fresh-water lakes ; and from two of these in the
moors issues the river Ad, which runs south-west-
ward along the valley of Glassary to the sea at
Crinan. On the banks of the Ad, the soil is a deep
rich loam ; and on the shore of Loch Fyne It is gen-
erally a black loam on limestone rock. There are
remains of three watch-towers on the tops of the
highest hills, and several cairns and upright stones
which probably mark the places of interment of the
heroes of former ages. There are rains of four an-
cient churches or chapels, — Kilbride in the west end
of the parish, Kilmory near Lochgilphead, Kille-
vin by the side of Loch Fyne, and Kilnenair by the
side of Loch Awe. The last of these exhibits much
beauty of workmanship, and is the subject of in-
teresting traditions, and was once surrounded by a
village. There are fourteen landowners, — seven of
these Campbells; and four of the fourteen are resident
in commodious mansions, a very interesting one of
which is Kilmory. There is an extensive herring
fishery in Loch Fyne ; there is also a powder-mill
on the northern border, contiguous to Inverary ;
but the business connexions of the greater part of
the parish are concentrated at Lochgilphead. The
yearly value of real property as assessed in 1860
was £14,449. Population in 1831,4,054; in 1861,
4,473. Houses, 650.
This parish is in the presbytery of Inverary, and
synod of Ai'gyle. Patrons, Misses Campbell of
Auchinellan. Stipend, £284 13s. 10d.; glebe, £26
Unappropriated teinds, £72 4s. lid. The district
contiguous to Inverary is included in the parish of
Cumlodden, erected in 1853; and a district at the
opposite end constitutes the quoad sacra parish of
Lochgilphead, erected in 1846. See Cumlodden
and Lochgilphead. The parish church of Glassary
was built in 1827, — much injured by lightning in
1830, but afterwards well repaired and improved,
and contains 1,500 sittings. There are at Loch-
gilphead a Free church, a Reformed Presbyter an
church, a Scottish Episcopal chapel, and a Baptist
meeting-house. There are three parochial school-
masters, with collectively salaries of £53 6s.; and
there are several private schools in Lochgilphead,
and an Assembly's school in Cumlodden. At Kir-
nan, in the valley of Glassary, about li mile from
the old manse of Kilmichael, resided the ancestors
of Thomas Campbell the poet, landowners to the
yearly value of about £37; and the poet mournfully
sings that locality as follows, in his ' Lines on
visiting a scene in Argyleshire,' —
" At tlie silence of twilight's contemplative liour,
I have mused in a sorrowful mood,
On the wind-shaken woods that embosom the bower,
Where the home of my forefathers stood.
All ruined and wild is their roofless abode,
And lonely the dark raven's sheltering tree;
And travelled by few is the grass-covered road,
Where the hunter of deer and the warrior node.
To his hills that encircle the sea."
GLASSAUGH. See Fokdyce.
GLASS-ELLAN, oi-Gheen Island, a low grassy
islet, about 30 acres in extent, with flat sandy
skirts, in the middle of Loch-Alsh, on the south-
west border of Ross-shire.
GLASSERT (The). See Glazert (The).
GLASSERTON, a parish, containing the village
of Monreith, and reaching to within £ a mile of the
post-town of Whithorn, in the south-east of Wig-
tonshire. It is bounded on the south-west by Luce
bay, and on the other sides by the parishes of Mock,
rum, Kirkinner, Sorbie, and Whithorn. Its great-
GLASSERTON.
793
GLASSFOKD.
est length south-eastward is 7 § miles; and its great-
est breadth is 3J miles. The coast, about 6£ miles
in extent, is a chain of bills, various in height, ver-
dant towards the top, and rocky, bold, and beetling
in their descent to the sea. Many of them, on their
seaward side, are abrupt and precipitous ; some pro-
jecting]}' overhang the waters ; some descend gently
into the tide, and afterwards look up from its sur-
face; and all have a dark and weather-beaten as-
pect. The bases of several are perforated, but not
deeply, by caverns. All the beach and the sea-
bottom within watermark, are covered with loose
fragments of rock, some of them rounded by the at-
trition of the waves, and others shapeless masses
clothed with marine plants and shells. The coast
line, with the exception of the small headland of
Lag Point, and a tiny bay beside it, called Mon-
reith bay, both in the north-west, is nearly quite
straight. Though there are two or three places
where small vessels may discharge or take in cargo
in fine weather, there is no port and no place of safe
anchorage. The surface of all the interior of the
parish is unequal, rugged, and knolly, yet nowhere,
except slightly in the north, rises into strictly hilly
elevations. The eminences or knolls are rocky, and
for the most part covered with furze or coarse grass.
The intervening hollows are, in some instances,
marshy, but, in general, are carpeted with fine
arable soil or excellent pasture. The influence of
spring is usually felt here — as in the adjacent dis-
tricts— somewhat earlier than in the other parts of
Scotland. Frost is seldom intense, or of long con-
tinuance; and snow rarely accumulates, or lies long
upon the ground. There are no streams of any im-
portance, and only one lake worthy of mention,
Dowalton loch, about 3 miles in circumference, on
the northern boundary. Agriculture has made
great advances here in late years. The soil is well
adapted for turnip husbandry, and on some of the
farms not fewer than 1 00 cattle are yearly stall-fed for
the Liverpool market, with which there is regular
steam-communication from the neighbourhood. The
mansions are Kavenstone or Castle-Stewart, a seat
of the Earl of Stair; Craigdow, belonging to Dr.
Pringle; and Glasserton and Physgill, two spacious
and beautifully situated residences of Stewart of
Physgill. The park of Glasserton, besides consti-
tuting of itself a beautiful landscape, contains the
parish church, whose handsome tower, rising above
the woods, forms an interesting feature. The land-
owners in addition to those already named, are Sir
William Maxwell, Bart., and Guthrie of Appleby. The
real rental isabout £8,570. The proportion of land in a
waste condition is about 6 in 21 of the whole area; and
the extent under wood is between 200 and 300 acres.
Assessed property in 1860, £10.333. Population in
1831, 1,194; in 1801, 1,472. Houses, 245.
This parish is in the presbytery of Wigton, and
synod of Galloway. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£201 12s. 5d. ; glebe, £20. Schoolmaster's sal-
ary, £60, with from £12 to £14 fees. Another
school has attached to it, besides the fees, £15 of
salary, and a dwelling-house. The church was built
in 1732, and repaired and enlarged in 1837, and con-
tains 400 sittings. The ancient church belonged to
the prior and canons of Whithorn, and was served
by a vicar. In 1606, it was granted to the bishops
of Galloway ; in 1641, it was transferred to the uni-
versity of Glasgow; and in 1661, it was restored to
the bishops of Galloway, and it continued to be held
by them till the abolition of Episcopacy in the year
1689. An ancient small parish, called Kirkmafden,
was incorporated with Glasserton, though at what
date is not known; and its burying-ground, toge-
ther with the ruins of its church, the former the
burying-place of the family of Maxwell of Monrcith,
still exist in a romantic spot near the shore, not far
from Monreith.
GLASSFOKD, or Glasfohd, a parish, containing
the villages of Chapelton, Westquarter, and Heads,
in the middle ward of Lanarkshire. Its south-east-
ern boundary reaches within 1£ mile of Strathaven,
and its north-western boundary within 3J miles of
Hamilton. It is bounded by the parishes of Strath-
aven, East Kilbride, Blantyre, Hamilton, and Stone-
house. Its outline, as represented in the map, is
not unlike that of a sand-glass. It extends from
north-west to south-east, and is defined at the upper
end by a headstream of the Kotten Calder, and at
the lower end by the river Avon. It is about 8
miles in length, and varies in breadth from SJths of
a mile to 2 miles at the lower end, and about half-
a-mile in the middle. It contains 11 square miles,
or 5,598 Scots acres. The land consists of moor and
dale; the former in many parts sufficiently bleak
and barren, but now under a gradual process of re-
clamation; and the latter, which runs along the
lower part of the parish, and is bounded on one side
by the Avon, smiling and fertile. Much of the sur-
face exhibits a gradual rise, or has a sufficient ele-
vation to be constantly overlapped by a keen atmo-
sphere; but none of it can be called mountainous.
The soil is variously moss, clay, and light loam.
Wheat has been grown ; but the principal crops are
oats and potatoes, which are successfully raised to
great amount. Coal exists, but not abundantly;
and there is only one mine of it going upon the
estate of Crutherland, the produce of which is not
extensive. There are four freestone quarries, three
near the village of Westquarter, and one at a place
called Flatt. A successful limework also is in ope-
ration. The proprietary of the parish is an ex-
tremely divided one, the number of owners of land
amounting to about 50; but the chief are the Earl
of Eglinton, Marshall of Chapelton, Alston of Muir-
burn, Jackson of Halhill, and Semple of Heads.
The principal mansions are those belonging to the
last three of these proprietors, and Avonholm, Cru-
therland, Westquarter, and Craigthornhill. There
are two corn-mills on the Avon. The parish is
traversed by the roads from Strathaven to Hamil-
ton and East Kilbride. Assessed property in 1860,
£9,900. Population in 1843, 1,730; in 1861, 1,938.
Houses, 277.
This parish is in the presbytery of Hamilton, and
synod of Glasgow and Ayr. Patron, the Earl of
Eglinton. Stipend, £274 17s. 8d. ; glebe, £12 10s.
Unappropriated teinds, £745 16s. 6d. The parish
church is situated in the village of Westquarter, at
the lower extremity of the parish; and it was built in
1820, and contains 560 sittings. There is a chapel of
ease for Chapel ton, 3 miles from Westquarter; and the
patronage of it is vested in the male communicants.
There is also a Free church preaching station at
Chapelton ; and the sum raised in connexion with it
in 1865 was £379 4s. Id. There are three parochial
schools in the parish. The salary of the first
master is £45, with £35 fees, and £6 other emolu-
ments ; that of the second is £5 10s., with £25 fees;
and that of the third is £2 15s., with £18 fees.
There is likewise a private school; and there are
several friendly societies. The remains of the old
church and belfry, erected in 1633, are seen in the
grave-yard; and the place is further hallowed by
the tomb of a martyr, which bears the following
inscription: — " To the memory of the very worthy
pillar of the church, Mr. William Gordon of Farl-
ston in Galloway, shot by a party of dragoons on
his way to Bothwell bridge, 22d June, 1679, aged
65; inscribed by his great-grandson, Sir John Gor-
GLASMILE.
794
GLENAPP.
don, Bart,, 1 1 th June, 1772." — The well-known Mrs.
Isabella Graham, so justly celebrated for the purity
of her character, and the piety of her writings, was
a native of Glassford. Her maiden name was Mar-
shall, and she died in America in July, 1814.
GLASSLETTER. See Kintail.
GLASSMILE, a summit of the Grampians, with
an altitude of upwards of 3,000 feet above sea-level,
situated at the point where the parishes of Glenisla,
Kirkmichael, and Braemar, in respectively the
counties of Forfar, Perth, and Aberdeen, meet.
GLASSMOUNT-H1LL, an eminence in the par-
ish of Kinghorn, Fifeshire. It is situated about 2A
miles from the shore, and is the highest ground in
the parish, having an altitude of 001 fset above sea-
level.
GLASSY (Loch). See Looierait.
GLAZERT (The), a rivulet of Stirlingshire. It
is formed by the confluence of the l'ow burn, the
Finglen burn, and the Kirkton burn, near the lodge
at the entrance to Lennox-castle, in the parish of
C'ampsie ; and it flows thence, in a south-south-
easterly direction, but with a great curve, to a junc-
tion with the Kelvin opposite the town of Kirkintil-
loch. It receives the waters of no fewer than six-
teen burns, and has a very large aggregate of water
power, insomuch as to have been a main cause, along
with the plenteousness of coal, why manufactures
have taken root and flourished in Campsie.
GLAZERT (The), a rivulet of Ayrshire. It rises
on the confines of Renfrewshire, cuts the parish of
Duulop into two nearly equal parts, passes thence
into a run within the parish of Stewarton, and per-
forms altogether a course of about 11 miles, in a
southerly and south-westerly direction, to a conflu-
ence with the Annock at Water-meetings 4 miles
below the town of Stewarton.
GLEN, a prefix in very many Celtic names of
places. It signifies a vale or comparatively narrow
valley, — generally such as has bold lofty acclivitous
hill-screens ; and it is most commonly prefixed to
the name of a stream, so as to make the whole name
compounded with it to signify a mountain vale tra-
versed by a particular stream.
GLEN, Peebles-shire. See Traquair.
GLENAE. See Tixwald.
GLENAFFRICK, the upper part of Strathglass,
in Inverness-shire. See Akfrick (Loch), and Glass
(The).
GLENAFTON. See Aftox (The).
GLENAHENRICH, a fine pastoral glen, of no
great extent, yet containing a considerable lake, in
the district of Sunart, on the northern border' of
Argyleshire.
GLENALLADALE, a glen, about 2 miles long,
extending from north to south, and opening upon
Loch Shiel, in the district of Moidart, on the south-
west bolder of Inverness-shire.
GLENALLA-FELL, the highest summit of the
hills at the southern extremity of the parish of Kirk-
michael, and around the sources of Girvan Water,
Ayrshire. It has an altitude of 1,612 feet above
sea-level.
GLEN ALMOND, a picturesque and romantic
glen, watered by the river Almond in Perthshire.
See Almond (The). What the name designates is
only a small part of the river's basin, and lies chiefly
within the parish of Monzie. In a wider sense, it is
sometimes, though loosely, made to comprehend an
open and cultivated part of the basin stretching to
the eastward. But, more usually understood, it is
entered on the east, at the boundary of the parish of
Monzie, by a cross-road from the bridge of Buchanty,
and after luxuriating, for a brief way, in kindred
beauties to those of a glen which opens into it from
the south-west, becomes suddenly pent up between
ranges of treeless, rocky, lofty elevations, and is
converted into a narrow mountain-pass. The hills
lift most of their summits 1,100 or 1,200 feet above
the level of the sea, and press so closely on the river
as barely to leave space for its bed, and for the road-
way of a new turnpike to the Highlands. An oc-
casional famishing shrub, looking squalidly out
among the fissures of the rocks, rather heightens
than mollifies the wildness of their aspect. The
Almond, while passing beneath their dark shadow,
and suffering their complete usurpation of its banks,
has a rough and stony pathway, and trots rapidly
along toward the soft beauties of the open country
below. Near the upper end of the pass is a large
round mass of stone, 8 feet high, which, having
been removed from its former bed in the vicinity of
its present position, disclosed a tiny subterranean
apartment, faced round with stone, and containing
human bones, and which is alleged by some fond
antiquaries to have marked the site of Ossian's
grave. This narrow and romantic pass is upwards
of 2 miles in length, and terminates at the bridge of
Newton. There a vale, narrow yet picturesque,
gradually opens, and extends several miles to the
west.
A great recent institution, in connexion with the
Scottish Episcopal church, is situated on the estate
of Carnies in Glenalmond, 10 miles west-north-west
of Perth. This is called Trinity College, and com-
prises two departments, — a public school department
and a theological students' department. " The
edifice is in the Elizabethan st3'le, and includes a
splendid Gothic chapel, consecrated on the 1st
of May, 1851. The buildings, completed in 1851,
in addition to the chapel, are the north and west
sides of a quadrangle, 1 90 feet square, comprising the
warden's residence, apartments for the subwarden
and five assistants, and accommodation for 130 resi-
dent pupils, of whom 40 seniors have each a separate
room, and the rest distinct and private compartments,
in three large dormitories on the north and half of
the west sides of the quadrangle, with rooms for
theological students. The east side is the school
room and hall, and the south side is a cloister con-
necting the chapel, which stands out from the quad-
rangle at the soutb-east corner, with the warden's
residence. The grounds comprehend a space of
twenty acres. The buildings, as completed in 1851,
cost £42,000, of which £36,000 were obtained by
subscriptions, the greater part in England, and the re-
maining £6,000 advanced on loan by members of the
Council and supporters of the College. The chapel
cost between £5,000 and £6,000, and the sum of
£20,000 completes this grand educational structure,
the design of which is that of John Henderson, Esq.
of Edinburgh. The situation of Trinity College, at
the base of the Grampians, cannot be surpassed for
the beauty and grandeur of the surrounding scenery.
A lofty spiral steeple immediately adjoins the chapel ;
and the other ornaments of the quadrangle, which
is chiefly from two to three stories, consist of small
spires, square towers, projecting windows, but-
tresses, and many very beautiful displays of archi-
tectural design."
GLENALOT, a small sequestered glen, between
the rivers Brora and Shin, 15 miles north-north-
west of Dornoch, Sutherlandshire.
GLENAPP, a picturesque glen, traversed by the
rivulet App, at the south-western extremity of Ayr-
shire. It is about 6 miles long, and extends south-
westward from the middle of the parish of Ballantrae
to Loch Ryan. It has a post-office station of its
own name, also a chapel of ease and an endowed
school. -The chapel and the school arose recently
GLENABAY.
795
GLENBUCKET.
from a bequest of £4,500 and 15 acres of land by a
lady of the name of Caddell ; and the cliapel bears
the name of Butlers' chapel, and is in the presenta-
tion of the trustees and pewholders.
GLENAEAY, the glen of the rivulet Aray in
Argyleshire. See Ahay (The). Glcnaray also
designates the entire basin of the Aray, compre-
hending the rivulet's tributaries, or the entire north-
oast portion of the parish of Inverary, and even
seems at one time to have designated the whole of
that parish.
GLENARCHAIG, the glen occupied by Loch
Archaig, in the south-west of Lochaber, Invemess-
sliire. See Aiiciiaig (Loch).
GLENARCLET, a mountain vale, extending
westward across the north end of the parish of
Huehanan, from Loch Arclet to Inversnaid, in
Stirlingshire. It is the tract for tourists from Loch
Katrine to Loch Lomond. See Akci.et (Loch).
GLENARTNEY, a highland vale along the
southern confines of the parish of Comrie, Perth-
shire, traversed by Artney and Enchill waters. At
its upper or west end, toward the point of its being
closed up by Benvoirlieh, is a preserve of some
hundreds of red deer belonging to Lord YVillougbby
do Eresby. In its lower or eastern part, as it ap-
proaches a convergence of glens at the village of
Comrie, it gives to the view a succession of interest-
ing landscapes. Along its north side anciently
spread a royal forest, — the scene of that chastise-
ment upon some M'Gregors, by the forester of James
VI., which led to the clan making reprisals, and to
their notable outlawry.
GLENAVEN, the "highland valley traversed by
j the Banffshire Aven. See Aven (The). The name,
j however, is more particularly applied to the upper
I part of the glen, constituting the southern or alpine
! division of the parish of Kirkmichael. This tract
comprises from G0,000 to 70,000 imperial acres, and
J was a few years ago set oft' by the Duke of Rich-
! mond, its proprietor, as a deer-forest.
GLENBANCHOR, the glen of Caldcr water, in
I the parish of Kingussie, and district of Badenoeh,
i Inverness-shire.
GLENBEG, a district opposite Skye, on the
west coast of the mainland of Inverness-shire. It
is part of the parish of Glenelg, and comprises the
smaller of the two valleys to which the name Glenelg
belongs in common.
GLENBEICH, a ravine in the north screen of
Loch Earn, containing a beautiful cascade, in the
parish of Comrie, Perthshire.
GLENBENNAN HILL, a ridge of about 1,500
feet of altitude above sea-level, on the south side
of the Old water of Cluden, in the parish of Kirk-
pa trick-Irongray, Kirkcudbrightshire.
GLENBERVIE, a parish, containing the post-
office village of Drumlithie, in Kincardineshire. It
is bounded by Strachan, Durris, Fetteresso, Dun-
r.ottar, Kinneff, Arbuthnot, and Fordoun. Its length
southward is G£ miles, and its breadth is 5 miles.
The surface is hilly and uneven, descending east-
ward and southward from the Grampians. The
soil, in the upper districts, is a blue clay, and in the
lower, a light dry loam, abundantly fertile. The
western division, being considerably elevated, is
bleak and little cultivated; but the eastern, though
also high and exposed, is in an advanced, and still
improving, state of cultivation : so also is the north-
ern quarter along a low ridge of the Grampians.
The rest of the parish is principally heath, pasture-
land, and copse, with a secluded glen. In all, there
are not more than 5,000 imperial acres in a state of
cultivation, though many more might be added.
Nearly 200 acres are planted. Bervie water comes
down from the braes of Fordoun, and runs about 4<J
miles south-eastward along the southern boundary
of Glenbcrvie. The name Glenbervie, as applied
to the parish, is therefore a misnomer; only the
northern half of only a part of the Bervie's glen
belonging to it. The ancient name, which was
Overbervie, was more correct. Carron water rises
in the braes in the west, and flows eastward
through the interior. Cowie water also, gathering
some of its sources from Fordoun. flows eastward
through the northern division of Glenbervie. The
principal landowners are Nicolson of Glenbervie
and Miller of Drumlithie. The real rental is about
£4,300. Assessed property in 1866, £7,551 12s.
The Aberdeen railway traverses the southern dis-
trict, and has a station in it at Drumlithie. Pop-
ulation in 1831, 1,248; in 1SGL 1,219. Houses, 255.
This parish is in the presbytery of Fordoun, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, Nicolson of
Glenbervie. Stipend, £231 3s. 3d.; glebe, £7 5s.
Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with £20 fees and other
emoluments. The parish church was built in 1820,
and contains 700 sittings. There is a Free church,
with an attendance of 160 ; and the sum raised in
connexion with it in 1S65 was £207 5s. lOd. There
is an Episcopalian chapel at Drumlithie. There are
three private schools. There were formerly two
friendly societies, and a savings' bank. An annual
cattle fair is held in October.
GLENBOL'LTACHAN. See Eakn (Locii.)
GLENBRAN, a district in the Sidlaw hills, an-
nexed quoad sacra to the parish of Abcrnytc, in the
east of Perthshire.
GLENBRECKRY, a vale, traversed by a small
stream, in the parish of Southend, Kintyre, Argyle-
shire.
GLEXBRIARACHAN, a glen in the parish of
Moulin, and watered by the Briaracban, in the
north-east of Perthshire.
GLENBRIGHTY, a pastoral highland vale,
watered by the Brighty, a headstream of the Isla,
commencing near the point in the Grampians at
which the counties of Forfar, Perth, and Aberdeen
meet, and occupying tlie north-west corner of the
parish of Glenisla in Forfarshire.
GLENBUCK, a village in the parish of Muir-
kirk, district of Kyle, Ayrshire. It stands in a
wild and secluded situation among the mountains,
near the road between Ayr and Edinburgh. Some
iron-works in its vicinity, erected and for some time
carried on by an English company, occasioned its
being built for the housing of the miners. But the
works having, a considerable period ago, been
abandoned, the village has been falling into decay.
Population, 237.
GLENBUCKET, a parish on the western border
of Aberdeenshire. It lies at the head of Alford
district, and has its postal communication through
Mossat, several miles to the north-east. It is
bounded by Banffshire, and by the parishes of
Cabrach, Towie, and Strathdon. It commences at
the watershed between the head streams of the
Deveron, the Livet, and the Don, and extends east-
south-eastward down both sides of the Bucket, a
tributary of the Don; and, comprising both the
entire length and the entire basin of the Bucket,
it is very correctly designated Glenbucket. Its
measurement, over only its arable portion, is about
0 miles by 1 mile; and, over its whole extent, about
10 miles by 2i miles. It consists in a large degree
of lofty mountains, through which a narrow pass
leads into the centre, from the east, at the confluence
of the Bucket with the Don, near the ruinous
castle of Glenbucket, which thus stands in a com-
manding and romantic situation. Craigenscore, th»
GLENBUCKIE.
796
GLENCAPLE.
highest land in the parish, rises about 2,000 feet
above sea-level. See also Benaw. The soil is
mostly a light loam, mixed, on some farms, with
clay. There is great abundance of excellent lime-
stone, which is much used by the tenants. The
whole parish belongs to the Earl of Fife. The re-
mains of a house are still to be seen, called Baden-
yon, which gives name to the song of ' John of
Baden3*on.' A porter's lodge was built, in 1840, by
the Earl of Fife, on this celebrated spot. Among
the wild animals which frequent the uplands, are
the roe and the red deer: there is abundance of
game of all kinds, with hawks, eagles, &c. ; and
salmon and trout are found in the Bucket and the
Don. Population in 1831, 539; in 1861, 552.
Houses, 108. Assessed property in 18G0. £1,154.—
This parish is in the presbytery of Alford, and
synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£158 Cs. 8d.; glebe, £7. Schoolmaster's salary,
£40; fees, &c. £6. There is a private school.
GLENBUCKIE, a glen and a mansion in the
parish of Balquhiclder, Perthshire. The glen ex-
tends about 4 miles north-eastward to a convergence
of glens at the foot of Loch Voil. The mansion was
built about 30 years ago.
GLENCAINAIL, a glen of 3 miles in length,
and | of a mile in breadth, on the south-east side of
Benmore, and in the parish of Torosay, in the
island of Mull, Argyleshire. In the lower part of
it is a considerable lake.
GLENCAIRN, a parish, containing the post-town
of Minnyhive and the villages of Duureggan and
Kirkland, on the western border of Dumfries-shire.
It is bounded by Kirkcudbrightshire, and by the
parishes of Tynron, Keir, and Dunscore. Its
greatest length south eastward is 12J miles; and
its greatest breadth is 6& miles. All the western
and the northern divisions are mountainous and
pastoral. One lofty range runs along great part of
the western boundary, and for a considerable way
forms the water-line between the streams respec-
tively of Dumfries-shire and of Galloway; another
high range runs along two-thirds of the north-east-
ern boundary; a third lofty range, intermediate be-
tween the others, comes down from the northern
angle, and runs along the centre of the parish
through almost its entire length; and the last, both
before and after the first range ceases to interpose
between the Galloway and the Dumfries-shire
waters, sends oft' spurs which run transversely from
it to the eastern boundary. The higher summits
rise from 1,000 to 1,500 feet above the level of the
sea, and are, for the most part, covered with heath.
Yet the hills, which are principally of the transition
class of rocks, and wearing its characteristic ex-
terior appearances, afford in general excellent pas-
turage. Three valleys coming down between the
mountain-ranges, — one from the north, one from the
west, and one from the south-west, each about G
miles in length, and all well-cultivated, luxuriant,
and sheltered with plantation,— meet at the village
of Minnyhive, and thence send off south-eastward
a broader and still richer valley, beautiful and
brilliant in the attractions of landscape, to the ex-
tremity of the parish. The three valleys are tra-
versed by the streams Dalwhat, Craigdarroch, and
Castlephairn, which unite at Minnyhive, and form
the Cairn ; and the great valley is traversed through
all its length by the united streams. The Craigdar-
roch rises in Auchenstrowan hill on the western
boundary, and within three miles of the source re-
ceives several tributary mountain-rills. The Castle-
phairn— which figures on some maps as the Cairn,
but is never called by that name by the inhabitants,
though the Dalwhat" sometimes is — comes in upon
the parish from Kirkcudbrightshire, after having rur
a course of 4 miles from Loch-Howie, in the parish
of Balmaclellan, forms for 1J mile the boundary-
line with Kirkcudbrightshire, and afterwards, in its
meanderings along the valley, everywhere flows
between wooded banks. The Dalwhat and the
Cairn have been described in their own alphabetical
places. Loch Urr, which also will be separately
described, lies on the south west boundary. One-
filth of the whole area of the parish is arable; 800
acres are under plantation ; and all the rest is pas-
toral or waste. A slate quarry was for some time
energetically worked; but, eventually yielding pro-
duce of inferior quality, it was abandoned. About
half-a-mile from the parish church is a tumulus or
artificial mount, commonly called the Moat, very
steep, of considerable height, and occupying about
an acre of ground. It is of an oblong form, and has
at each end an earthen turret cut off from the main
body by a deep trench. One of the turrets, and one
side of the base of the tumulus, have been much
reduced in bulk by the aggressive movements of a
passing rivulet. Of many traditions and conjec-
tures respecting the original design of the Moat, the
most probable is, that it was constructed either to
be a watch-post, or to serve as an arena for the ex-
ercise of archery. The Rev. James Eenwick, the
last of the Scottish martyrs, and a conspicuous actor
in some of the most hallowed, and also in some of
the most tumultuous and daring proceedings of the
Covenanters, was a native of Glencairn ; and is com-
memorated by a monument of hewn stone and about
25 feet high, erected, in 1828, near the supposed
spot of his nativity, on an eminence less than j of a
mile from Minnyhive. The principal mansions in
the parish are Maxwellton, Craigdarroch, and Auch-
enchain. There are four principal landowners, and
about thirty smaller ones. The real rental is up-
wards of £11,000. Assessed property in 1843,
£13,315. Population in 1831,2,008; in 1801, 1,807.
Houses, 389.
This palish is in the presbytery of Penpont, and
synod of Dumfries. Patron, the Duke of Buccleueh.
Stipend, £279 15s.-10d. ; glebe, £18. There are
three parochial schools, and two non-parochial.
Salary of the first parochial schoolmaster, £45;
of the second, £22 10s.; of the third, £12. The
school-fees amount respectively to £20, £20, and
£14. The parish church was built in 1836, and
contains 1,050 sittings. There is a Free church,
with an attendance of 700; and the sum raised in
connection with it in 1865 was £306 16s. 8d. There
is in Minnyhive an United Presbyterian church,
with an attendance of 300. The ancient church of
Glencairn belonged to the bishops or chapter of
Glasgow. In the valley of the Castlephairn, at a
place still called Kirkcudbright— a modernized
orthography of " Kirk-Cuthbert" — there was an
ancient church dedicated to St. Cuthbert. Glen-
cairn gave the title of Earl to an ancient branch
of the family of Cunningham. Alexander, the 1st
Earl, was ennobled, first as Lord Kilmaurs, and next
as Earl of Glencairn, by James II. Alexander, the
5th Earl, figures illustriously in the history of the
Reformation. James, the 14th Earl, is familiar to
a large class of Scotsmen as the patron of the poet
Burns. John, the 15th Earl, and brother of James,
died in 1796, and left his noble title to go a-begging
for want of an inheritor.
GLENCANNICH. See Cannich (The).
GLENCAPLE, a post-office village and small
sea-port, in the parish of Caerlaverock, Dumfries-
shire. It is delightfully situated on the left bank
of the Nith, 5 miles below Dumfries. Its entire
aspect is modern, tidy, and cheerful. A road, coin-
GLENCA.RREL.
797
GLENCOE.
billing the attractions of the avenue, and exhibitions
of joyous scenery, leads down to it along the Nith
from Dumfries, and brings many a vehicle and
group of pedestrian tourists from the gay burgh to
enjoy its balmy air, and luxuriate in the landscapes
around it. Nearly opposite to it, on the Kirkcud-
brightshire side of the river, and accessible by ford-
ing at low water, are the beautiful ruins and cir-
cumjacent scenery of New-abbey. Six miles to the
south-west rises the dark fine form of the mon-
arch-mountain Criffel. Two-and-a-half miles to the
south-east are the deeply-interesting ruins of Caer-
laverock Castle. All around are objects, both in
landscape and in antiquarian reminiscence, which
make Glencaple a seaward retreat from the cares
and bustle of a town, which Dumfries may boast as
equal to that enjoyed by the most favoured towns
in Scotland. One attraction of no mean order
occurs nowhere else in Scotland, or even in the
world, except at kindred places on the Solway. The
channel of the Nith is here :f of a mile wide, and
exhibits in superlative fulness those wondrous fea-
tures for which the tides of the Solway are famed.
"During spring-tides," says Mr. M'Diarmid, "and
particularly when impelled by a strong south-wester,
the Solway rises with prodigious rapidity. A loud
booming noise indicates its approach, and is distin-
guishable at the distance of several miles. At
Caerlaverock and Glencaple, where it enters the
Nith, the scene is singularly grand and imposing;
and it is beautiful to see a mighty volume of water
advancing foam -crested, and with a degree of
rapidity which, were the race a long one, would
outmatch the speed of the swiftest horses. The
tide-head, as it is called, is often from 4 to 6 feet
high, chafed into spray, with a mighty trough of
bluer water behind, swelling in some places into
little hills, and in others scooped into tiny valleys
which, when sun-lit, form a brilliant picture of
themselves. From the tide-head proceed two huge
jets of water which run roaring along, searching
the banks on either side, — the antenna?, as it were,
which the ocean puts forth, and by which it feels
its way, when confined within narrow limits."
Intimate knowledge of the peculiar navigation is
requisite to guide vessels at the recess and influx
of so unwonted a tide; and instances have occurred
at Glencaple and its vicinity of masters acquainted
from their youth with the Solway having suffered
their vessels to be wildly played with by the career-
ing invader, and even tripped fairly over and laid
on their beam-ends. — The trade of Glencaple is
strictly identified with that of Dumfries; the port
being simply a place for such vessels discharging
their cargoes as draw too much water, or are too
unwieldy, to sail up to the burgh. Considerable
stir, in consequence, occurs from the necessity of
further transference by carriers. Shipbuilding is
carried on to some extent. Population, 268.
Houses, 51.
GLENCARREL, a small inland highland vale,
near Glenalot, in Sutherlandshire.
GLENCARRICK LEAP, a fine cascade on the
Duncow burn, in the parish of Kirkmahoe, Dumfries-
shire.
GLENCARSE, an estate, a mansion, and a railway
station, in the parish of Kinfauns, Perthshire. The
station is on the Dundee and Perth railway, 4 miles
west of Errol, and 6 east of Perth.
GLENCATACOL, a glen in the north-west of the
island of Arran, opening on Kilbrannan sound.
GLENCHATT. See Birse.
GLENCLOVA, the mountain part of the basin of
the South Esk, through the parishes of Clova and
Cortachie, Forfarshire.
GLENCLOY, a beautiful, romantic, highland vale,
descending 4 miles north-eastward from the water-
shed of the island of Arran, to a convergence of vales
round the head of Brodick bay.
GLENCOE. a wild, gloomy, highland glen, ex-
tending nearly 9 miles north-westward, from the
vicinity of the King's house to Loch Lcven at In-
vercoe, in the north-cast corner of Argyleshire.
It is traversed by the road from Ballachulish and
from Fort William by way of Tyndrum to Dumbar-
ton. " The scenery of this valley," says a local au-
thority quoted by Pennant, "is far the most pictur-
esque of any in the Highlands, being so wild and
uncommon that it never fails to attract the eye of
every stranger of the least degree of taste or sensi-
bility. The entrance to it is strongly marked by
the craggy mountain of P.uachal etive, a little west
of the King's house. All the other mountains of
Glencoe resemble it, and are evidently but naked
and solid rocks, rising on eacli side perpendicularly
to a great height from a flat narrow bottom, so that
in many places they seem to hang over, and make
approaches, as they aspire, toward each other. The
tops of the ridge of hills on one side are irregularly
serrated for three or four miles, and shot in places
into spires, which form the most magnificent part of
the scenery above Ccann-loch Leven." " There is
no valley in Scotland," says another authority, " so
absolutely wild and singular in its features as Glen-
coe. Entering the glen from the eastern extremity,
the mountains rise in stupendous masses all around,
forming an amphitheatre, vast in extent, and pre-
serving a stillness and solemnity almost terrific,
which is heightened by the desolate appearance of
the vale; and, perchance, the hollow scream of a
solitary eagle may excite a temporary feeling of
horror. The bare rocks immediately in front shoot
up perpendicularly, while those more distant appear
in an innumerable variety of fantastic forms; and
their singularity is increased with the deep furrows
worn by the winter-torrents from the top of the
mountains. Immense masses of rock are also seen
near the path through the glen, which, in the course
of ages, have been loosened from the side of the
mountain, and hurled along with the currents of
rain to the depth of the glen. In length, Glencoe
is nearly 9 miles, without the least appearance of
any human habitation, or even vegetation to support
a few tame animals connected with the most humble
household. Its general appearance has a strong
tendency to excite a feeling, that the place has been
proscribed by Heaven as the habitation either of man
or beast."
Amid this vast, tremendous solitude,
Where nought is heard except the wild wind's sigh,
Or savage raven's deep and hollow cry,
With awful thought the spirit is imbued 1
Around — around tor many a weary mile,
The alpine masses stretch, the heavy cloud
Cleaves round their brows, concealing with its shroud
Bleak, barren rocks, unthawed by Summer's smile.
Nought but the desert mountains and lone sky
Are here— birds sing not, and the wandering bee
Searches for flowers in vain; nor shrub, nor tree,
Nor human habitation greets the eye
Of heart-struck pilgrim; while around him lie
Silence and desolation, what is he!
Glencoe figures mournfully in history, in connexion
with the massacre of its inhabitants, of the clan
Macdonald, in the winter of 1691-2. The causes of
the massacre were of a political kind, variously ani-
mosity, intrigue, and mistake, partly flowing from
the revolution of the Crown, and partly developed
by that event. " Two companies of soldiers, one of
which was commanded by Captain Campbell of
Glenlyon, uncle to the wife of one of the chiefs sons,
entered the valley of Glencoe with peaceful profes-
GLENCONEY.
7lJS
GLENCROSS.
sions, and were received as friends, Campbell being
quartered in the house of his kinsman, and the sol-
diers in the huts of the clansmen. For a fortnight
they enjoyed the hospitality of their unsuspecting
entertainers, at the end of which they rose up at mid-
night and commenced the foul work of massacre.
The old chief was sliot in the act of rising from bed :
his wife was stripped naked, and even the ring torn
from her fingers by the teeth of a savage soldier, so
that she died next morning from horror and distrac-
tion. No quarter was given by the military but-
chers: men, women, and children, were shot down or
stabbed without distinction. In this way, thirty-
eight perished ; for the rest of the clan, alarmed by
the fire of musketry, had escaped at midnight to the
hills, under shelter of a sterm; but the huts were
destroyed, and those women and children who had
escaped the sword, were exposed to perish among
the snow."
Glencoe is supposed, by some, to have been the
birth-place of Ossian. "In the middle of the vale
runs 'the roaring stream of Cona;' the mountain of
Malmor rises on the south ; and the celebrated Con-
Fion — ' the hill of Fingal ' — is situated on the north
side of the vale. Garnett says: "Any poetical
genius who had spent the early days of his life in
this glen, must have had the same or similar ideas,
and would have painted them in the same manner
that Ossian has done; for he would here see nothing
but grand and simple imagery — the blue mists hang-
ing on the bills — the sun peeping through a cloud —
the raging of the storm, or the fury of the torrent."
Stoddart says, " If any district can, with peculiar
propriety, boast of the birth of Ossian, it is this.
The translator of his poems has so unjustifiably
altered the original names, both of men and places,
that it is not easy to trace them in those which now
exist. Something like many of them is to be found
all over the Highlands ; but here they are most
numerous; several of the names referring either to
the heroes of the Fingalian race, or to their general
occupation, hunting. Hero is Seur-no-Fioun, 'the
mountain of the Fingalians ; ' Coe, the name of the
river, is supposed to be the Cona of Ossian; Grhnan
Dearduil, ' the sunny place of Dearduil,' is supposed
to refer to Ossian's Darthula, whom Nathos stole
from her husband Conquhan. Here also are Achna-
con, ' the field of the dog; ' Caolis-na-con, ' the ferry
of the dog;' Bitanabean, 'the deerskin mountain,'
&c. Add to this, that the neighbouring country
bears similar traces; that Morven is the peculiar
name of Fingal's domain ; that an island in Loch-
Etive is supposed to be named from Usnatb, the father
of Nathos; and that Etive itself is so named from
the deer of its mountains. It must not, however,
be dissembled that the same names occur in other
places. The stream of Conan, in Ross-shire, is sup-
posed to be Cona, and is near Knock Farril-na-Fion,
which takes its name from Fingal; and Daruil, or
Jarduil, is a name common to most of the rocks,
which, like the one in Glen-Coe, are termed Vitrified
forts."
Glcncoe has now a post-office station of its own
name. The mouth of the glen contains an extensive
slate quarry, with a considerable population, and
with appliances for secular and religious instruction ;
but these are popularly regarded as belonging to
Balt.aciiulisu : which see. A school in the place has
a parochial status, with a stent of £18, besides fees.
The parts of the glen farther up contain several farm
houses and a small inn. Yet is the general body of
the glen sublimely desolate, — almost as much so as if
it were part of the mountain wilderness of Arabia
I'etrsea.
GLENCONRY, the glen of the Corny, a head-
stream of the Don, in the parish of Strathdon, Aber-
deenshire. It contains a chalybeate spring.
GLENCONVETH, a glen in the parish of Kiltar-
lity, but belonging to the ancient incorporated parish
of Conveth, Inverness-shire.
GLENCORSE. See Gi.encross.
GLENCOTHO, a small lateral glen in the parish
of Glenholm, recbles-shire.
GLENCOUL, or Glexcul, a highland glen de-
scending about 9 miles west-north-westward to the
head of Kyle Scow, on the mutual border of the par-
ishes of Assyntand Edderachillis, in Sutherlandshire.
The lower half of it is occupied by a deep ramifica-
tion of Kyle Scow, called Loch Glencoul, overhung
by wild precipitous hills, and remarkable for the
productiveness of its herring-fishery.
GLENCRERAN. . See Creran (Loch).
GLENCR1EFF. See Wanlogkhead.
GLENCROE, a highland glen, near the northern
extremity of the district of Cowal, Argyleshire. It
commences near the water-shed between the head
of Loeh-Fyne and the head of Loch-Long, and de-
scends east-south-eastward to the latter at a point
nearly opposite Arroquhar. The road to Inverary,
from Dumbarton, by the Gair-loch and Loch-Long,
after winding round the head of the latter loch,
passes under Ben-Arthur or the Cobbler, and, leaving
Ardgarten house on the left, enters Gloncroe. The
scenery is here wild and sublime in the highest de-
gree. On each side rise lofty mountains, with rocks
of every shape hanging on their sides, many of
which have fallen to the bottom of the glen, while
others threaten the traveller with instant destruc-
tion. In the middle of the glen runs a considerable
brook, near which the road is carried; and hundreds
of rills that pour from the mountains form in their
descent innumerable cascades. There are a few
cottages on the sides of the road inhabited by shep-
herds. The rocks consist almost entirely of mica-
ceous schist, shining like silver, beautifully undu-
lated, and in many parts imbedded in quartz. In
the bed of the rivulet are considerable numbers of
granitic pebbles, with pebbles of schist, full of crys
tals of schorl. The length of Glencroe is between
5 and 6 miles. The road ascends gently through
the whole of it, excepting the last mile, where it is
very steep, and carried in a zig-zag form to the top
of the hill. Here is a seat, 29 miles from Dumbar-
ton, and a stone inscribed, ' Rest and be thankful,'
placed by the 22d regiment, who made the road.
GLENCROSS, or Glexcorse, a parish near the
centre of Edinburghshire. Its post-town is Peni-
cuick, about a mile beyond its southern boundary.
It is bounded by the parishes of Colinton, Lasswade,
and Penicuick. It has a somewhat circular outline,
of about 3 miles in diameter. The north-western
division, comprising about one-third of the whole
area, runs up from the lower slopes to the highest
summit-range of the Pentlands, and is altogether
pastoral. The south-eastern and larger division
consists of beautiful undulating land, part of the
great plain of Mid-Lothian, finely cultivated, but
adorned to excess and sheltered to undue closeness
with plantation. The hills, like all the rest of the
Pentland range, consist of different sorts of eruptive
rocks; and the lower grounds contain sandstone,
limestone, coal, and shales. Glencross-burn, after a
course of 2 J miles in the Pentland section of Peni-
cuick, and bearing hitherto the name of Logan-house
water, comes in upon the parish from the south-west,
runs along its boundary northward for nearly a mile,
— now suddenly debouches, and flowing first east-
ward and next south-eastward, intersects it from side
to side, dividing it into two nearly equal parts, —
then, a few yards after leaving it and entering the
GLENCROSS.
7!>0
GLENDEVON.
parish of Lasswade, falls into the North Esk.
Another stream, a tiny brook, rises within the
parish at Head-stone, flows for half-a-mile south-
ward to the boundary, and then circulates along its
margin over a distance of 3 or 3J miles, when the
North Esk receives its little tribute. Upwards of
half-a-mile from where Glencross-bum comes in-
ward from the boundary, it is dammed up by a stu-
pendous artificial embankment, so as to form, from
this point all the way back to the boundary and a
brief distance along it, a narrow but capacious lake.
Compensation-pond, as this lake iscalled, was formed
at the expense of the water-company of Edinburgh,
to compensate the millers on the North Esk, for the
deprivation of some of their important feeders in
order to send supplies to the citizens of the metro-
polis; and, in times of drought, when the Esk fails
to bring along its channel a water-power sufficient
for the mills, it sends off, by means of a regulating
and watchfully kept machinery, such discharges as
keep tliL'm working. The Crawley spring, whence
the Edinburgh water-company draw a large portion
of their supplies, wells up near a place called Flotter-
ston. Much of the area of the parish, which was
at one time sterile moorland, is now either cultivated
or planted. There are five principal landowners,
and several smaller ones. The valued rental is
£1,570 Scots. The chief modern buildings are the
mansions of Glencross, Logaiibank, Bellwood, and
Bush. But a more interesting place than any of
these is "VVoodhouselee. This ought, in propriety,
to bear the name of Fulford, and is not to be con-
founded with Old VVoodhouselee, some 3 miles or
more distant from it, near the southern extremity of
the parish. The tower of Fulford, an edifice of great
antiquity, and situated near the northern limit of
Glencross, in the opposite extreme to that which
inarches with Lasswade, was repaired nearly two
centuries ago, from the stones of Old VVoodhouselee
— the seat of Hamilton of Bothwell-haugh, whence
the Regent Moray turned oitt the lady of Hamilton
to the inclemency of the season — and, in conse-
quence, took its name. Towards the end of last cen-
tury, VVoodhouselee ■ — the property of the Tytler
family — was illustrious as the residence of William
Tytler, Esq., vice-president of the Scottish Anti-
quarian society, author of ' Enquiry into the Evi-
dence against Maiy Queen of Scots,' and a masterly
dissertation on Scottish music, the restorer from
oblivion of the ' King's Quair,' a poem written by
James I. of Scotland, during his captivity in Eng-
land,— and the perspicacious adjudicator to Allan
Ramsay of the entire merit of the ' Gentle Shep-
herd,' and of the authorship of two fine Scots poems
which hitherto had gone, like Captain Marryat's
Japhet, in search of a father, 'the Eagle and Robin-
Red-breast,' and 'the Vision.'
Glencross puts in a claim, though probably a friv-
olous one, to the honour of figuring throughout as
the scene of the exquisite pastoral of the Gentle
Shepherd. See Habbie's Howe. Bullion green, at
the base of Lawhead-hill, not far from the south-
western boundary of the parish, figures in history
as the scene of a memorable skirmish of the troops
of the persecuting Stuarts, in 1 GG6, with a resolute
and daring body of the Covenanters. The western
population of Scotland, driven to despair by the op-
pressions of the government, ran hastily to arms,
and rashly dreamed of making themselves masters
of the metropolis; and menaced near Edinburgh by
the advance of a royal force under General Dalziel,
they turned aside at the village of Colinton, to climb
away among the l'cntlands, but were overtaken on
the little plain of Rullion green, and there — though
twice repulsing their assailants — they were utterly
dispersed, leaving upwards of fifty of their mimbei
to fatten the spot with their carcases. Within a
small enclosure is a monument, with a suitable in-
scription, commemorative of the Rev. Mr. Cruick-
shanks, Mr. M'Cormic, and other heroes who fell.
The mansion of Greenlaw, on Glencross-burn, 8
miles from Edinburgh, and near the south-eastern
limit of the parish, was used, previously to 1814, as
a depot for prisoncrs-of-war, and had erected around
it, on a Government purchase of 38 acres, wooden
buildings for the accommodation of 6,000 prisoners,
and a regiment of infantry. The barracks, raised
at the conjectural cost of £100,000, are still occu-
pied by small detachments from Edinburgh castle.
At a former period the parish had a distillery ; but
now it rejoices in a strictly rural population. Through
nearly its middle, from north-east to south-west, it
is intersected by the road from Edinburgh to Biggar
and Dumfries; and, in its southern or champaign
division, it has several other roads. South-west of
the House-of-Muir, and about 8^ miles from Edin-
burgh, is a great annual market for sheep on the
first and second Mondays of April. At that place
also there was formerly a weekly market, frequented
by the Edinburgh butchers. The yearly value
of real pioperly as assessed in 1860 was £0,411.
Population in 1831,652; in 1861,1,021. Houses,
165.
This parish is in the presbytery of Dalkeith, and
synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Patron, Tytler
of VVoodhouselee. Stipend, £156 17s. 7d.; glebe,
,£20. Schoolmaster's salary, £50, with £19 15s.
fees, and £5 15s. other emoluments. The par-
ish-church was built in 1665, and repaired but not
enlarged in 1811. Sittings about 200. The parish
of Glencross was formed, in 1616, from the ancient
parishes of Pentland and Penicuick, the northern
division being taken from the former and the south-
ern division from the latter. In the vale of Glen-
cross-bum, on the northern bank of that stream, in
a locality now laid under water by Compensation
loch, anciently stood a chapel dedicated to Saint
Catherine the virgin, called Saint Catherine of the
Hopes, in contradistinction to Saint Catherine ot
the Kaimes, in the parish of Libcrlon.
GLENCUL. See Glexcoul.
GLENDALE, a vale about 2 miles long, stretch-
ing northward to the head of Loch Poltiel, in the
parish of Diminish, in the island of Skye.
GLENDARUEL, a vale, an estate, and a mansion,
in the parish of Kilmadan, district of Cowal, Argyle-
shire.
GLENDEAN. See Thaquajk.
GLENDEAEG, a narrow vale, about Si miles in
length, coming down southward from Bendcrig, and
overlooked on the west side by Benchat, and on the
cast side by Benvenoeh, in the northern part of the
parish of Blair- Athole, Perthshire.
GLENDERRY, a wild alpine glen, of small ex-
tent but gloomy character, among the Benmacdlm
group of mountains, at the head of Brasmar^ in Ab-
erdeenshire.
GLENDEVON, a parish in the Ochil district of
Perthshire. Its post-town is Muckhart, 3 miles
south-south-east of its church. It is bounded by
Blackford, Auchterarder, Fossaway, Muckhart, and
Clackmannanshire. Its length south- westward is
5i- miles ; and ita greatest breadth is 4 miles. The
whole parish lies among the Ochils, and is lifted up
into green smooth hills, freckled at remote intervals
with rocks, and embrowned on some spots with
heath. Devon water comes in upon it from the
west, 5 miles from its source, forms for 2| miles the
northern boundary-line, flows eastward for 2A miles
through the interior, receiving several tributary
GLENDOCHART.
800
GLENELG.
rills in its course, and, bending south-eastward,
traces for If mile the boundary with Fossaway.
The river opens up in its progress a glen or narrow
vale, and, in doing so, gives name to the parish. In
scattered spots along this vale, where the soil is
light and dry, inclining to gravel, are about 200
acres of arable land. All the rest of the parish is
pastoral, and sustains about 8.000 sheep. Experi-
ments in ploughing the lower parts of the hills
proved that attempts at cropping are, in this district,
less remunerating than attention to pasture. At
Burnfoot is a small mill for spinning wool. A house
built in the 16th century, by the family of Crawford,
for the protection of their vassals from any hostile
attack, and which is more spacious than most build-
ings of its class, was restored from a ruinous con-
dition, and still stands as an admonition to gratitude
for the blessings of peaceful times. A turnpike runs
through the parish 3| miles along the glen. There
are five landowners. Assessed property in 1866,
£2,370. Population in 1831, 192; in 1861, 138.
Houses, 25. — This parish is in the presbytery of
Auchterarder, and synod of Perth and Stirling.
Patron, the Crown. Stipend, £158 6s. 7d.; glebe,
£8 10s. Schoolmaster's salary, £45, with £7 fees,
and £5 other emoluments.
GLENDHU. See Glexdow.
GLENDINNING. Sse Westerkirk and Dum-
fries-shire.
GLENDOCH ART, the glen of the Dochart, down
to the head of Loch Tay, in the parish of Kil-
hn, Perthshire. See Dochart. Entering Glen-
dochart from Glenogle, it presents a region of sterile
magnificence, varied by the winding course of the
river; and several hamlets, disposed on the emi-
nences that just rise above the level which stretches
far to the west in the bottom of the valley, give it
some interest. Though the hills exhibit a length-
ened chain of barren wildness, Benmore towers
amid them in double cone, and excites in the mind
of one who can relish rude grandeur, a sublimity of
feeling not easily to be expressed by words. Pro-
ceeding by the banks of the Dochart to Killin, the
hill called Stronchlachan, the craggy heights of Fin-
lairg, and the lofty wilds of Benlawers, with Loch
Tay stretching its ample breadth along the base of
those mountains, are seen, as grand and simple parts
of a magnificent whole.
GLENDOICH, an estate in the parishes of Kin-
fauns and Errol, Perthshire. The mansion, a
modern edifice, is in Kinfauns ; but a hamlet, of the
same name as the estate, is in Errol.
GLENDOLL. See Doll (The).
GLENDORCH. See Crawfordjoiin.
GLENDOUGLAS. See Douglas Burx, Selkirk-
shire, Argyleshire, and Dumbartonshire.
GLENDOVAN. See Glexdevon.
GLENDOW, a glen on the east side of the high-
land district of the parish of Buchanan, Stirling-
shire. It is traversed by a head stream of the Forth.
GLENDOW, a glen in the south of the parish of
Edderachillis, Sutherlandshire. It is flanked on the
south side by Benlead, and descends 2 miles west-
ward to the head of Loch Glendow. That loch is
a marine inlet, ramified eastward from the head of
Kyle Scow, about 3 miles long and 1J mile broad,
romantically wild in its stern steep hill screen ,
very deep in its water, and famous for the produc-
tiveness of its herring-fishery, — no less than about
£30,000's worth of herrings having been caught in it
in one year.
GLENDOW, a glen, about 7 miles long, in the
interior of the parish of Morvern, Argyleshire. It
extends parallel to Loch Sunart, at the distance of
about 3 J miles from that sea-loch. Lead ore of con-
siderable richness occurs in it, and was wrought for
some time in last century by a company called the
Morvern Mining Company.
GLENDOW, or Glextendal, a glen, nearly 3
miles long, extending from east to west, 7 miles
distant from Glenure, partly well-wooded, and all
overran by fallow-deer, in the parish of Ardchattan,
Argyleshire.
GLBNDRONACH. See Forgue.
GLENDUBH. See Glendow
GLENDUCK1E, a village and a hill in the parish
of Flisk, Fifeshirc. The hill is part of the range
which flanks the frith of Tay. Population of the
village, 53. Houses, 13.
GLENDUROR, the vale of the stream Duror, in
Appin, Argyleshire. Sec Duror.
GLENDYE. See Dye (The), Kincardineshire.
GLENEAGLES. See Blackford.
GLENEARN. See Drox.
GLENEFFOCK. See Glenesk.
GLENELCHAIG, the northern district of the
parish of Kintail, but particularly the immediate
vale of the streamlet Elchaig, in the south-west of
Ross-shire. It is an exceedingly sequestered dis-
trict, separated from the rest of the parish by a
range of loft}' mountains. In the heights of it oc-
curs the remarkable cascade of Glomach : which
see.
GLENELG, a parish, containing a post-office vil
lage of its own name, also the village of Amisdale,
on the west coast of Inverness-shire. It is bounded,
on the north-east and east, by the water-shed of a
ridge of hills, which divides it from Ross-shire; on
the south-east and south, by the water-shed of the
range of heights at the head of Glengarry and Glen
arehaig in Lochaber ; on the south-west, by Loch
Morar, which divides it from Arasaig in the parish
of Ardnamurchan ; and on the north-west, by the
navigable and much frequented Sound of Sleat,
which separates the Scottish mainland from the
island of Skye. Its length and breadth are each
about 20 miles. It comprises three districts, all
washed by the sound of Sleat, and each separated
from the other by a long transverse inlet from that
sound, in the form of a sea-loch. First is Glenelg
proper, in the north-east ; next is Knoydart, in the
middle, — these two separated from each other by
by Loch-Hourn; and next is North-Morar, in the
I &iuth-west, — this separated from Knoydart by Loch-
Nevis. See Knoydart, Morar, Hourn (Loch), and
Nevis. (Loch). The coast, except in the bay of
Glenelg and within the sea-lochs, is generally high
and rocky. The sea-lochs are remarkable for ro-
mantic beauty, and they contain good anchoring
ground. Glenelg proper comprises two glens,
called Glenmore and Glenbeg, each watered by its
own little stream. The former is the site of the vil-
lage of Glenelg, and takes down the roads from the
interior of the mainland to the grand ferry into
Skye. It is quite destitute of trees, except toward
the foot, but is clothed to the very summit of its
hill-screens with green pasture ; and the entry to it
at the upper end, with the hills of Skye in the dis-
tance, discloses a brilliantly impressive view. The
inhabitants of Glenelg proper reside principally in
hamlets at the sides of the streams, their arable
land extending along the banks, and on the decliv-
ity of the hills. Some of them also dwell on Loch-
Hourn-side. In this district the soil is good ; part
of a deep black loam, and part of a sandy gravel,
yielding crops of potatoes and oats. The hills afford
good pasture for cattle. In Knoydart the inhabi-
tants dwell in villages bordering on the sea, and
along the s:des of Loch-Hourn and Loch-NeviB.
Here the soil is in general light, yielding early
ULENENNICII.
801
GLENFINLASS.
crops of barley, oats, and potatoes. The hills, though
high, arc mostly green to the top, and afford excel-
lent pasture for all kinds of cattle. North-Morar is
rocky and mountainous, and chiefly adapted for
sheep. The valued rent of the parish is £3,565
Scots. Glcnelg proper belongs to Mr. Baillie of
Kingussie, Knoydart to M'Donell, and North
Morar to Lord Lovat. The yearly value of raw
produce was estimatedin 1836 at £10,635. Assessed
property in 1860, £7,268. The only mansion in
f. he parish is that of Jnvorio on the banks of Loch-
Nevis, in Knoydart. There have been many castles
or round towers, two of which in Glenbeg are yet
pretty entire. In 1722, shortly after the battle of
Glenshiel, Government thought it necessary to erect
a small fortification on the west coast, and pitched
on a spot of ground in this parish as a proper situa-
tion, being in the direct line from Fort-Augustus to
the Island of Skye. From that period till after 1745,
there were commonly one or two companies of foot
quartered here ; hut the barracks are now in rain.
The village of Glcnelg stands picturesquely on the
small bay of Glenelg at the ferry into Skye. The
bay affords good anchorage in easterly winds ; but a
better harbour in all winds is on the Skye side,
nearly opposite, about 1 J mile distant. The village
has a principal street of slated houses, besides nu-
merous thatched cottages, and is embellished with
interspersed trees and adjacent plantation. It con-
tains some well-stocked shops, the parish church,
and the residence of the landowner's factor ; and it
gives name toasynod both of the Established church
and of the Free church. Fairs are held here on the
Friday after the last Tuesday of May, and the Fri-
day after the last Tuesday of July. " Population of
the village, about 400. Population of the parish in
1831, 2,874; in 1861, 1,843. Houses, 348.
This parish is in the presbytery of Lochcarron,
and synod of Glenelg. Patron, Baillie of Kingussie.
Stipend, £237 7s. 9d. ; glebe, £60. Parochial school-
master's salary, £25. The parish church was re-
paired in 1835, and contains 400 sittings. There is
a mission station of the Royal bounty in Knoydart.
There is a Free church preaching station in Glenelg;
and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was
£243 17s. lOd. There fire Roman Catholic chapels in
Knoydart and Morar. There are in the parish three
non-parochial schools. Glcnelg gives the title of
Baron in the peerage of the United Kingdon '
Charles Grant, a well-known statesman, ennobled
in 1835, the son of the late Charles Grant Esq.,
then proprietor of the district of Glenelg proper.
GLENENNICH, an alpine glen, of considerable
extent, having several lakes in its bottom, and
affording good sheep pasturage in its screens, in the
parish of Rothiemurehus, Inverness-shire.
GLENENOCH. See Glenesk.
GLENERICHKIE. See Erichkie (The).
GLENERICHT. See Ekicht (The).
GLENESK — called also in its main body, Glen-
mark, and in its offshoots Glenenoch, Gleneffoek,
and Glentinmount — the ramified valley of the north-
em part of the Grampian district of Forfarshire,
watered by the North Esk and its mountain-tribu-
taries. See articles Forfarshire, Lochi.ee, Edzell,
and Noeth Esk (The).
GLENESLAND (The), a rivulet which rises near
the water-line between Dumfries-shire and Gal-
loway, at the western boundary of the parish of
Dunscore, in the district of Nithsdale, and pursues
a course 4J miles eastward to the Cairn.
GLENESPIG, a wild sequestered glen on the
west side of the watershed of the island of Arran.
A few individuals of the red deer still linger among
its upper heights.
I
GLENETIVE. See Etive (The).
GLENEUCHAR, the glen of the rivulet Euchar,
extending about 6 miles from east to west, in the
parish of Kilninver, Argyleshire.
GLENFALLOCH, the glen of the rivulet Falloch,
descending from Perthshire into Dumbartonshire,
terminating at the head of Loch- Lomond, and bring-
ing down hither the road from Strathfillan. See
Falloch (The).
GLENFARG, the romantic vale of the Farg.
leading from Kinross-shire into Perthshire, and
forming a splendid natural cut among the Ochils.
See Farg (the).
GLEN PARNATE, a narrow vale forming, with
the hills and mountains which flank it, the north-
eastern part of the parish of Moulin, Perthshire. It
comes down southward over a distance of about 6
miles, traversed throughout by the Arnate; and
when that stream makes a confluence with the
Briarachan, and unites with it to form Airdle water,
the glen becomes lost in the valley of Strathairdle.
The hills of vivid green which form the side walls
of Glenfarnate, contrast picturesquely with the grim
and gloomy aspect of the circumjacent mountains.
GLENFAEQUHAR, a small glen among the
braes of the parish of Fordoun, Kincardineshire.
GLENFAS, a sequestered glen, still containing
some red deer, on the west side of the watershed of
the island of Arran.
GLENFENDEE. See Fekdek (The).
GLENEERNISDALE, a glen opening laterally
on Strathspey, a little above Kingussie, in Bade-
noch, Inverness-shire. The old military road, which
is still the best for pedestrians, deflects from Glen-
truim at Ettridge Bridge, and goes down Glenfem-
isdale to the Spey.
GLENFESH1E, the glen of the Feshie, in the
east of Badenoch, Inverness-shire. It is traversed
by a short mountain road, often preferable for pedes-
trians, from Inverness to Athole. See Feshie (The).
GLENF1DD1CH, the fertile vale of the Fiddich
in Banffshire. See Fiddich (The).
GLENFINART. See Dunoon.
GLENFINLASS, a narrow vale, about 5 miles in
length, extending south-eastward to the valley of
the Teith, in the parish of Callander, Perthshire.
It is traversed by the streamlet Turk, and, though
singularly wild in its scenery, is for the most part
wooded, and possesses little of the naked and savage
aspect which so generally distinguishes the High-
land glens. The Turk, in passing through it, has
a peaceful meandering course ; but, at the point of
emerging, it " suddenly sinks into a profound chasm,
formed by some terrible convulsion of nature, and
there it is heard far below, brawling along the
secret fragments of rock, in its rapid course."
Should the traveller, approaching from Callander,
be inclined to visit this retired vale, he passes
through a narrow ravine, where the mountain-
stream has formed a way for its waters. Here a
tumultuous cataract is seen pouring over a rock,
beautifully fringed with copsewood ;
"That huge cliff whose ample verge,
Tradition names the hero's targe."
It was under this waterfall that Brian, the hermit
monk, performed the "taghairm," or mysterious
consultation with the oracle, in which the fate of
Roderick Dhu was darkly foreshown. Sir Walter
Scott relates that this wild place in former times
afforded refuge to an outlaw. He was supplied
with provisions by a woman, who lowered them
down from the edge of the precipice above. His
water he procured for himself by letting down a
flagon tied to a string into the black pool beneath
3b
GLENFINNAN.
802
GLENGONAE.
the fall. On emerging from the narrow ravine, the
traveller enters Glenfinlass, and is surprised to meet
with a soft verdant plain of considerable extent,
variegated with meadows and corn-fields. The
mountains by which this beautiful valley is hemmed
in are lofty, and their sides are marked by the
course of many streams which flow down them.
They are mostly free of heath, and covered with a
fine green sward to their summits, forming pasture-
ground of superior quality. Glenfinlass was an-
ciently a deer forest belonging to the Kings of Scot-
land, and appears to have been covered with wood,
the remains of aged trees being still everywhere
visible. It is now inhabited by a people of the
name of Stewart, clansmen of the Earl of Moray,
the proprietor, who are all connected together by
intermarriages. This race have long inhabited the
district under the protection of their chief, and the
same farms have been transmitted from father to
son, through a lapse of ages.
GLENFINLASS, Dumbartonshire. See Fjxlass
(The).
GLENFINNAN, a glen, containing a post-office
station of its own name, at the head of Loch-Shiel,
in Inverness-shire. It is impassable except by
travellers on foot. It is famous for being the place
where Prince Charles first raised his standard in
1745. See Finnan (The).
GLENFOOT, a village in the parish of Abernethy,
Perthshire.
GLENFOESA. See Forsa (The).
GLENFEUIN, the vale of the rivulet Fruin in
Dumbartonshire. See Fruin (The). It widens
gradually as it approaches Loch-Lomond, and at-
tains the breadth of a mile in some parts. It has
attained considerable historical notoriety from its
having been the scene, in 1602, of a desperate con-
flict, between Sir Humphrey Colquhoun of Luss, the
chief of that surname, and Alexander Macgregor,
chief of the Clan Gregor. Colquhoun was the as-
sailant, at the head of a somewhat promiscuous body
of 500 foot and 300 horse; while Macgregor stood
on the defensive with only about 200 of his clans-
men. The contest was keen, and ended remarkably,
in the total defeat of the Colquhouns, no fewer than
about 200 of them being put hors de combat, while
only two of the Macgregors were slain and but very
few wounded. The laird of Luss and his friends
sent early notice of their disaster to the King, and
they succeeded so effectually by misrepresenting
the whole affair to him, and exhibiting to his
Majesty eleven score bloody shirts alleged to belong
to those of their party who were slain, that the King
grew exceedingly incensed at the Clan Gregor — who
had no person about the court to plead their cause — ■
proclaimed them rebels, and interdicted all the lieges
from harbouring or having any communication with
them.
GLENFYNE, a glen, commencing nearly at the
point where the counties of Perth, Dumbarton, and
Argyle meet, and descending 6 miles south-south-
westward to the head of Loch-Fyne in Argyleshirc.
GLENGABBER. See Lyne and Megget.
GLENGAIEN, or Glengairden, an ancient par-
ish in the district of Kincardine O'Neil, and shire of
Aberdeen, now united to the parish of Glenmuick.
The church, which .is situated at the confluence of
the water of Gairden with the Dee, is about 2 miles
north from the church of Glenmuick, and appears to
have been dedicated to St. Mungo, from an annual
meeting of the parishioners on the 13th of January.
It is 16 miles west of Kincardine O'Neil. The
greater part of this district lies upon both banks of
the Gairden, extending 6 miles north-west from the
church, where the upper parts of Tulloch begin, and
separate it from the parish of Crathie. A small part
of it lying on the south of the Dee is called Strath-
Girnie. Near the Pass of Ballater is an ancient
castle, which formerly belonged to the family of
Forbes. See Glenmuick.
GLENGAP. See Twynholm.
GLENGAENOCK, a barony, of about 1,400 acres
in area, on both sides of the upper course of the
Gamock, in the parish of Kilbirnie, Ayrshire. About
half of it, together with the superiority over the rest,
belongs to the estate of Kilbirnie, the property of
the Earl of Glasgow ; and about 420 acres of it are
distributed among nine different proprietors. An
ancient fortified residence upon it, called Glengar-
nock castle, the venerable ruins of which still crown
a precipitous knoll by the side of the Garnock, two
miles north of the village of Kilbirnie, appears to
have anciently been a place of much importance.
See Cunningham. The Glengarnock iron- works are
an extensive recent erection, employing nearly 400
men, near the line of the Glasgow and South-western
railway, between Kilbirnie and Beith. The site of
the works was admirably chosen ; and much skill
and taste were displayed in planning the grounds
and the buildings.
GLENGAEE. See Game Glen.
GLENGAEEEL, the glen of the Dumfries-shire
Garvald. See Garvald.
GLENGARRY, the glen of the Perthshire Garry.
See Garry (The).
GLENGARRY, a district in the west of Inver-
ness-shire, extending from Knoydart to the Great
Glen, and having for its centre the glen of the rivulet
Garry. See Garry (The). Glengarry was, till re-
cently, the. property of the chief of the clan of Mac-
donald, who here possessed an elegant seat in Inver-
garry castle on the north-west bank of Loch-Oich.
In 1787, the estate of Glengarry produced only £800
a-year ; its present rental is upwards of £7,000. It
was purchased by the Marquis of Huntly from
Macdonald, and was sold in 1840 to Lord Ward for
£91,000. There are in Glengarry an Established
church mission, connected with the Royal bounty,
a preaching station of the Free church, and a Roman
Catholic chapel.
GLENGAW BURN. See Ayr.
GLENGLOY, a deep mountain glen in Loch-
aber, Inverness-shire. It extends about 5 miles
south-westward between Glen Roy and the Great
Glen, parallel to both, and then deflects suddenly to
a right angle with its former direction, and proceeds
2 miles to the Great Glen about the middle of Loch-
Lochy. It exhibits a terrace, as if the margin of an
ancient lake, at an elevation of 1,278 feet above sea-
level, which is 12 feet higher than the highest cf
the "parallel roads" of Glen Roy.
GLENGOLIE, a sequestered glen, between the
mountains of Strathbeg and Strathmore, in the south
of the parish of Durness, Sutherlandshire. It is sung
by the poet Donn, as a favourite hunting ground.
GLENGONAE, a vale in the moorland parish of
Crawford, at the southern extremity of Lanarkshire,
watered by the Gonar or Glengonar, a streamlet tri-
butary to the Clyde. The village of Leadhills is
situated near the source of this ' ore-stain'd stream.'
The vale abounds in mineral wealth, principally
lead; and, in a former age, very elevated and even
romantic notions were formed of its vast resources,
from small particles of gold having been found in
the sands of the stream, and elsewhere in the vale.
During the minority of James YI. a German miner-
alogist was commissioned by Queen Elizabeth to
search the hills and valleys here for precious ores,
and the place where he washed the dust, is still
called Gold-scour. It was found, however, that the
GLENIIALLMIDEL.
803
GLENISLA.
cost of working was more expensive than could be
defrayed by the precious metal which was recovered,
and the gold-search was therefore abandoned. At a
more recent period, the Earl of Hopetoun, who is
the principal proprietor, resumed the search, but
abandoned it from the same cause, yet not until
a sufficient quantity of the metal had been pro-
cured to form a small piece of plate of native
Scottish gold. It is still found in small particles,
enough certainly to indicate the presence of the
metal, but much too scanty to give any reasonable
encouragement for working it.
GLENGUNNERY. See Knockaxdo.
GLENHALIMIDEL, a winding vale of about 3
miles in length, in the north of the island of Arran.
It opens into the glen of the Ranza, a little above
the head of Loch Ranza. Here is a slate quarry,
containing beautiful crystals of pistacite.
GLENHALTIN, a glen, partly arable, and largely
pastoral, in the parish of Snizort, island of Skye.
GLENHEAD, a village in the parish of Lochwin-
noch, Renfrewshire. Population, about 60.
GLENHIGTON, a small lateral glen of the par-
ish of Glenholm, Peebles-shire.
GLENHINISTIL, a glen in the parish of Snizort,
island of Skye.
GLENHOLM, a section of the modern united
parish of Broughton, Glenholm, and Kilbucho, in
Peebles-shire. It consists of a vale 2 miles broad,
and nearly 7 miles long, drained by Holms water.
Along one-half of its eastern boundary, it is traced
and enlivened by the brilliant Tweed; and, along
its northern boundary, it is separated from the parish
of Stobo by Biggar water. Nowhere does it touch
Broughton except at its north-west angle; but, over
two-thirds of its length, it marches with Kilbucho.
It is beautiful and lovely in its features. Nearly
all of it is a delightful pastoral vale, cut lengthways
into two nearly equal parts by Holms water, which
flows so gently, and lingers with suchjifondness
amongst the charms of the overseeing landscape, that
the northerly or the southerly direction of its motion
is doubted by the tourist till he comes close upon its
bants. Yet the stream, though placid, is not slug-
gish ; and the valley, though soft and mild, is ex-
ultant in the gorgeous framework of one of the rich-
est districts of the southern highlands. Collateral
glens, too, come down upon the main valley, and
seem like joyous and beautiful children pressing upon
the sides of a happy and rejoicing mother. Glen-
higton, Glencotho, Glenkirk, and Glenludo, all
partake the heauteousness of the parent valley of
Glenholm, and bring down upon its smiling stream
their tributary rills. Glenholm was anciently a
rectory in the deanery of Peebles. In the upper part
of it, at a place called Chapelgill, there was formerly
a chapel. The parish-church, though now aban-
doned for that of the united parish situated in Kil-
bucho, was rebuilt so late as 1775.
GLENHOWAN, a small village in the parish of
Caerlaverock, Dumfries-shire.
GLENIFFER BRAES, part of a ridge of trap
hills, on the southern border of the Abbey parish of
Paisley, about 2 miles south of the town of Paisley,
Renfrewshire. Their highest point has an elevation
of about 760 feet above sea-level. They have a
softly featured outline, and are partly cultivated,
partly covered with wood, partly clothed in the
grasses, broom, and heather of natural pasture.
They are seamed by several pretty ravines, with
each its brawling stream. On these braes the poet
Tannahill, who has wedded them to song, was wont
to stray on week-day evenings, or on the Sabbath
day, musing on the various objects of beauty scat-
tered profusely around. Here it was he noted "the
breer wi' its saft faulding blossom," " the craw
flower's early bell," and " the birk wi' its mantle o'
green;" and here he now listened to the warble of
the mavis rising from " the shades of Stanley-shaw,"
and now gazed, with rapt delight, on the gorgeous
scenery of the lower Clyde, with his native town in
the foreground, and the frontier Grampians in the
distance.
GLENIGAG, a sequestered glen, watered by the
Meig, in the extreme west of the parish of C'ontin,
Ross-shire.
GLENIORSA, the glen of the riralet Iorsa, on
the west side of the island of Arran. It commences
near the watershed of the island, at a point about 3
miles west of the summit of Goatfell, and descends
about 7 or 8 miles south-westward to the north side
of Mauchray bay. The red deer is still found in its
upper heights.
GLENISLA, a highland parish, containing a post-
office station of its own name, in the north-western
extremity of Forfarshire. It is lxmnded by the
counties of Perth and Aberdeen, and by the parishes
of Clova, Kirriemuir, Lintrathen, and Alyth. Its
length southward is 15i[ miles ; and its greatest
breadth is 5J miles. Over its whole length — except
about a geographical furlong at the highest summit-
range of the Grampians, forming the water-line and
boundary with Aberdeenshire — it is traversed by
the Isla. This stream rises in Cean-Lochan, for-
merly a deer-forest of the family of Airlie, and runs
sinuously southward, cutting the parish into two
nearly equal parts ; lingering, in spite of the moun-
tain impetuosity of its motion, to enliven, by its
foldings and windings, the stern yet attractive
highland scenery through which it flows; forming,
for 2£ miles toward the southern extremity, the
boundary-line with Lintrathen ; and achieving an
entire course, from its origin to the point where it
leaves the parish, of 21 miles and 1 furlong. At
brief intervals during its whole progress, it receives
on both banks tributaries which vie with itself in
importance, — which plough down the Grampians
and form cleughs or glens between parallel lines of
the mountain-heights, — and two of which, though
they become confluent a little before uniting with
the Isla, flow at a proper distance nearly alongside
of it over a distance respectively of about 6 and 7J
miles. Below the mill of Craig, the Isla makes a
magnificent leap over a breast of rock 70 or 80 feet
perpendicular, and there forms a cascade called
Reeky linn, which seems ashamedly modest of its
own brilliant attractions, and sends fioatingly over
them a misty but sparkling veil of spray. The
whole parish being squeezed up lenthways against
the highest range of the tier-like descending Gram-
pians, is mountainous and strictly highland in its
scenery, and adapted principally for pasturage ; yet
the lower parts are carpeted with good strong loam,
and produce excellent crops of com and grass. In
the upland districts limestone abounds, and in vari-
ous localities is freely worked. The air is very pure,
and not a little salubrious. During the summer
months the climate is generally very sultry; and,
during the winter months, it is generally very cold
and frosty. The entire parish anciently belonged
to the clan of the Ogilvies ; and it still contains the
ruins of two of their strongkolds, — the castles of
Forterand Newtown. The principal landowners are
the Earl of Airlie, Rattray of Kirkhillocks, Smyth
of Balharry, and Sir James Ramsay, Bart, of Banff;
and there is a considerable number of small land-
owners. The real rental is about £4,300. The
yearly value of raw produce was estimated in 1842
at £18,440. Assessed property in 1860, £8,069 6s. Od.
The kirk-town of Glenisla, a mere hamlet, stands
GLENKENS.
804
GLENKINLASS.
on the left bank of the Isla, nbout 4 or 4J miles from
the southern extremity of the parish. Population
of the parish in 1831, 1,129; in 1861, 1,008. Houses,
210.
This parish is in the presbytery of Meigle, and
synod of Angus and Mearns. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £159 12s. 3d.; glebe, £10. School-mas-
ter's salary, £50, with £5 fees. The parish
church was built in 1821, and contains 700 sit-
tings. There is a Free church, with an atten-
dance of 300 ; and the sum raised in connexion with
it in 1865 was £160 0s. lOd. There are two non-
parochial schools. Fairs are held on the first Wed-
nesday of March and the first Wednesday of August,
old style.
GLENKENS, the northern district of Kirkcud-
brightshire, comprehending — with the exception of
part of the parish of Parton at the southern extrem-
ity— all the territory drained by the river Ken,
whence the district has its name, and the Ken'3
tributaries. On the north it is hounded by the sum-
mit-ra-nge or water-line between Galloway and Ayr-
shire; on the east, for two-thirds of the way, by a
chief-summit range which forms the water-line be-
tween it and Dumfries-shire, and, for the remaining
third, by the Cairn, a tributary of the Cairn, Loch-
Urr, and the water of Urr, which divide it partly
from DumfrieB-shire, and partly from the parish of
Kirkpatrick-Durham ; on the south-east, by the par-
ish of Parton; on the south-west, by the river Dee,
which divides it from Balmaghie, Girthon, and Min-
nigaff ; and on the west, by Gala-Lane and Loch-
Doon, which divide it from Ayrshire. The district
comprises the four parishes of Carsphairn, Dairy,
Ealmaclellan, and Kells ; and is celebrated, as to a
large part of its extent, both for its breeds of sheep
and black cattle, and for the attractions of its moun-
tain landscape. " Thousands, we believe," says
M'Diarmid, in one of his editorial contributions to
his Scrap Book, "have visited the Glenkens, a dis-
trict which has been described as the Grampians of
Galloway, and which is alike celebrated for the
wild grandeur of its scenery, and the feudal power
and exploits of the noble house of Kenmuir. In
summer and autumn this interesting district pre-
sents a most inviting prospect, whether to the
sportsman or more contemplative visitor, with its fine
amphitheatre of hills, amidst which the Scottish
eagle still fixes his eyrie, and boundless slopes of
the loveliest heather, where even the patient sheep
finds out a scanty meal, and of which the blackcock
and moorfowl, the plover and curlew, appear to be
the sole occupants. In the foreground the spectator
has the broad and beautiful expanse of the Ken,
here hurrying along with the rapidity of a mountain-
stream, and there settling into the quiet tranquillity
of an extensive lake; at one place washing the
granite base of Laurin, and at another nourishing
the luxuriant reeds near Kenmuir castle, where the
teal and the wild duck, the coot and the heron, en-
joy a little world of their own, and hardly seem to
look upon man as an enemy. The time-worn towers
of the castle, too, peering from an avenue of limes,
or more veteran clump of oaks, every one of which
might stand for a patriarch among trees, immedi-
ately carry the mind back to those unsettled yet
romantic times when a mother frequently presented
her son with his spurs to remind him that her larder
was empty, and when the fosse and the donjon-
keep, the drawbridge and the warder, supplied all
the purposes of a modern police. Nor is it only in
summer or autumn that the Glenkens afford a rich
treat to the admirers of mountain scenery. In win-
ter, too, when the new-fallen snow levels all the
features of an ordinary landscape, it is delightful to
see the farmers and shepherds hurrying with their
curling stones to the neighbouring loch or river,
and forgetting all the evils of high rents and falling
markets in an anxiety to distinguish themselves in
this manly sport. And on Sundays, it is still more
interesting to see the same individuals gathering
round the porch of the parish-church, and kicking as
they enter the frozen snowballs from their ponderous
shoes ; while the far-off shepherd, whose compass is
the warning bell, is seen manfully climbing the
trackless hill, and pausing at intervals to catch
another sound of that tuneless instrument which
might now plead the never-failing apology of better
musicians, and appeal to the hooded belfry as a suf-
ficient excuse for its increased hoarseness."
GLENKETLAND, a glen about 2 miles long,
opening on Glenetive, about 3 miles above the head
of Loch Etive, Argyleshire.
GLENKILLOCK, a picturesque glen in the par-
ishes of Abbey-Paisley and Neilston, Renfrewshire.
It intersects the Fernese hills east- south-eastward,
and is traversed by the Killock burn, which falls
into the Levem nearly opposite the village of Neil-
ston. It abounds in wood, and in natural features
of romance, and contains three waterfalls which
have been pronounced perfect miniatures of the
three falls of the Clyde, — Bonniton, Corra, and
Stonebyres. Both the glen and the burn have been
sung by Tannahill and other poets; insomuch that
" Glenkillock's sunny brae" is a familiar phrase to
the inhabitants of Levernside and of Paisley.
GLENKILN, a narrow vale stretching north and
south along nearly the whole length of the parish of
Kirkmichael, in the district of Annandale, Dum-
fries-shire, and giving name to a tributary of the
Ae, by which it is traversed, and to a range of high
hills by which it is overlooked. Glenkiln burn rises
between Holehouse-hill and Deer-edge, near the
northern extremity of the parish, and after a course
of 5J miles due south, it passes the manse and church
of the parish, and, 3 furlongs farther down, falls into
the Ae. The Glenkiln hills are a range, coming
down from the central mountain-barrier of the Low-
lands, confronting a parallel range between the Ae
and the Glenkiln, and sending up Glenkiln-craig,
Gray-hill, Kirkmichael-fell, and other summits from
1,100 to 1,400 feet above the level of the sea. See
KikkmichaeTj, Dumfries-shire.
GLENKINDY, a detached district of the parish
of Strathdon, Aberdeenshire. It contains a post-
office station of its own name. It lies from J of a
mile to 3 miles north-east of the main body of the
parish, and is surrounded by Cabrach, Kildrummie,
Towie, Migvy, and Glenbucket. It comprises a
vale with hill screens, and brings down the rivulet
Kiudy to fall into the Don a little above the kirk of
Towie. Here are a mansion and a small wcol-mill,
the latter employing 6 persons. Fairs are held in
Glenkindy on the Monday in April after Brechin
tryst, on the 27th day of May, and on the Saturday
in September after Banchory.
GLENKINLASS, a glen, near the northern ex-
tremity of Cowal, Argyleshire. It commences near
the mountain watershed on the boundary with Dum-
bartonshire, and descends 6 miles west-south-west-
ward to the east side of Loch Fyne, at a point about
2 miles from the head of the loch. The road from
Dumbarton to Inverary wends from the head of
Glencroe into Glenkinlass, and descends the latter
to Loch Fyne. Glenkinlass is traversed by the ri-
vulet Kinlass. It abounds with the same kind of
scenery as Glencroe, but is less wild and romantic
At its foot are the house and pleasure-grounds of
Ardkinlass.
GLENKINLASS, a lateral glen, about 9 mile?
GLENKIRK.
80.5
GLENLIVET.
long, descending to the east side of Loch Etive, at
lnverkinlass, about 6 miles above Bunawe. It has
a curvature in its course, so that but small part of
it can be seen from Loch Etive. Its north side is
rocky aud bleak; but its south side yields excellent
pasture
GLENKIRK, a lateral glen of the parish of Glen-
holm, Peebles-shire.
GLENLATTERACH, a glen traversed by the
burn of Glenlatteraeb, which is the boundary-line
between the parish of Birnie and the parish of Dal-
las, in Morayshire. The burn, about 2 miles below
its source, makes a sheer fall of about 50 feet into
what the country people call the Kettle; and a
little lower down it makes another fall into what
they call the Pot. Lofty cliffs screen the falls, and
want only the festooning of wood to make the scen-
ery very grand. The burn is a tributary of the
Lossie.
GLENLEAN. See Dunoon.
GLENLEDNOCK, a narrow vale forming, with
the hills along its sides, the north-eastern part of
the parish of Comrie, Perthshire. It stretches
south-eastward over a distance of about 7 miles, is
watered throughout by the Lednock, lies from 200
to 300 feet above the level of the sea, and makes a
convergence with two other vales at the village of
Comrie.
GLENLEE. See Keli.s.
GLENL1CHD, a valley in the parish of Glen-
shiel, in Ross-shire, running along the eastern base
of Benmore, and opening at the lower end into
Strathcroe. See Glenshiel.
GLENLIVET, a district, containing a post-office
6tation of its own name, in the parish of Inveraven,
Banffshire. It comprises all the upper parts of the
parish, from the source of the stream Livet down to
the confluence of that stream with the Avon; and
measures 9 miles in length by 6i in extreme breadth.
The upper rim and the sides of it are entirely hilly
and pastoral ; and the parts nearest the stream are
divided into two snbdistricts by a central high hill
called the Boehle. The upper subdistrict bears the
name of the Braes of Glenlivet; and the lower sub-
district bears the name of Moranga. The popula-
tion of Glenlivet is about 900; and about three-
fifths of them are Roman Catholics. The district is
an ancient barony, now belonging to the Duke of
Richmond, but giving the title of Baron in the peer-
age of Scotland to the Marquis of Huntly. A large
part of the estate has in recent times undergone
great georgical improvement. Limestone of supe-
rior quality, which is believed by geologists to be of
the metamorpliic class, like gneiss and mica slate,
and not a secondary or untransformed rock, occurs
under almost every field, and i6 extensively worked.
Lead ore also exists in large quantities on the farm
of Tomvoulin. Whisky of particularly fine flavour
iias long been made in Glenlivet, and is known
throughout Scotland by its name. It was formerly
made in smuggling houses, on almost every rill
among the hills, but is now made in three extensive
legal distilleries. There are in Glenlivet a mission
on the Royal bounty, two Roman Catholic chapels,
three Protestant schools, and two Roman Catholic
schools.
A locality at the north-west extremity of Glen-
livet, on the burn Altconlachan, was the battle-
field, on which, in October 1594, the loyal Protes-
tant army under the Earl of Argyle was defeated
by the insurgent Roman Catholic army under the
Earl of Huntly. Argyle disposed his army on the
declivity of a hill, in two parallel divisions. The
right wing, consisting of the Macleans and Mackin-
toshes, was commanded by Sir Lauchlin Maclean
and Mackintosh — the left, composed of the Grants
Macneills, and Macgregors, by Grant of Gartinbeg
— and the centre, consisting of the Campbells, &c.p
was commanded by Campbell of Auchinbreclc. This
vanguard consisted of 4,000 men, one-half of whom
carried muskets. The rear of the army, consisting
of about 0,000 men, was commanded by Argyle
himself. The Earl of Huntly's vanguard was com-
posed of 300 gentlemen, led by the Earl of Errol,
Sir Patrick Gordon of Auehindun, the laird of Gight,
the laird of Bonnitoun, and Captain, afterwards Sir
Thomas Carr. The Earl himself followed with the
remainder of his forces, having the laird of Cluny
upon his right hand and the laird of Abergeldy upon
his left. Three pieces of field-ordnance under the
direction of Captain Andrew Gray, afterwards colo-
nel of the English and Scots who served in Bohemia,
were placed in front of the vanguard. The position
which Argyle occupied on the declivity of the hill
gave him a decided advantage over bis assailants,
who, from the nature of their force, were greatly
hampered by the mossiness of the ground at the foot
of the hill, which was interspersed by pits from
which turf had been dug. But, notwithstanding
these obstacles, Huntly advanced up the hill with a
slow and steady pace. It had been arranged be-
tween him and Campbell of Lochnell, who had pro-
mised to go over to Huntly as soon as the battle had
commenced, that, before charging Argyle with bis
cavalry, Huntly should fire his artillery at the yel-
low standard. Campbell bore a mortal enmity at
Argyle, as he had murdered his brother, Campbell
of Calder, in the year 1592 ; and as he was Argyle's
nearest heir, he probably had directed the firing at
the yellow standard in the hope of cutting off the
Earl. Campbell himself, however, was shot dead
at the first fire of the cannon, and upon his fall all
his men fled from the field. Macneill of Barra was
also slain at the same time. The Highlanders, who
had never before seen field pieces, were thrown into
disorder by the cannonade, which being perceived
by Huntly he charged the enemy, and rushing in
among them with his horsemen increased the con-
fusion. The Earl of Errol was directed to attack
the right wing of Argyle's army commanded by
Maclean ; but as it occupied a very steep part of the
hill, and as Errol was greatly annoyed by thick vol-
lies of shot from above, he was compelled to make a
detour, leaving the enemy on his left. Gordon of
Auehindun, disdaining such a prudent course, gal-
loped up the hill with a small party of his own fol-
lowers, and charged Maclean with great impetuosity ;
but Auchindun's rashness cost him his life. The
fall of Auehindun so exasperated his followers that
they set no bounds to their fury; but Maclean re-
ceived their repeated assaults with firmness, and
manoeuvred his troops so well as to succeed in cut-
ting off the Earl of Errol and placing him between
his own body and that of Argyle, by whose joint
forces he was completely surrounded. At this im-
portant crisis, when no hopes of retreat remained,
and when Errol and his men were in danger of be-
ing cut to pieces, the Earl of Huiitly came up to his
assistance and relieved him from his embarrass-
ment. The battle was now renewed, and continued
for two hours, during which both parties fought
with great bravery, the one, says Sir Robert Gordon,
" for glorie, the other for necessitie." In the heat
of the action the Earl of Huntly had a horse shot
under him, and was in imminent danger of his life;
but another horse was immediately procured for
him. After a hard contest the main body of Argyle's
army began to give way, and retreated towards the
rivulet of Altconlachan; but Maclean still kept the
field, and continued to support the falling fortune of
GLENLOCHER.
800
GLENLUCE.
the day. At length, finding the contest hopeless,
and after losing many of his men, he retired in good
order with the small company that still remained
about him. Huntly pursued the retiring foe beyond
the water of Altconlachan, when he was prevented
from following them farther by the steepness of the
hills, so unfavourable to the operations of cavalry.
The success of Huntly was mainly owing to the
treachery of Loehnell and of John Grant of Gartin-
beg, one of Huntly's vassals, who, in terms of a con-
certed plan, retreated with his men as soon as the
action began, by which act the centre and the left
wing of Argyle's army were completely broken. On
the side of Argyle 500 men were killed besides Mac-
neill of Barra, and Loehnell and Auchinbreck, the
two cousins of Argyle. The Earl of Huntly's loss
was comparatively trifling. About fourteen gentle-
men were slain, including Sir Patrick Gordon of
Auchindun and the laird of Gight ; and the Earl of
Errol and a considerable number of persons were
wounded. At the conclusion of the battle the con-
querors returned thanks to God on the field for the
victory they had achieved. This battle is called by
pome writers the battle of Glenlivet, and by others
the battle of Altconlachan.
GLENLOCHER, a post-office station subordinate
to Castle-Douglas, and 4 miles north-west of that
town, Kirkcudbrightshire.
GLENLOCHY, a narrow vale along the course
of the Loehy, in the district of Breadalbane, Perth-
shire. It extends in length about 12 miles; has the
form of the arc of a circle, stretching from west to
east, with its concave side to the north; and is dis-
tributed into detached portions of the parishes of
Kenmore, Weem, and Killin. It is separated by a
ridge of mountains from Glendochart and Strathfillan.
GLENLOCHY, a glen in the parish of Glenorehy,
Argyleshire. It commences on the verge of the
county, in the vicinity of Tyndrum, and descends
about 7 miles westward to a convergence with the
glen of the Orchy above Dalmally. It is traversed
by the public road from Oban to Dumbarton.
GLENLOGY, a lateral glen, 3 miles long, open-
ing on the north side of Glenprosen, in the upper
division of the parish of Kirriemuir; Forfarshire.
GLENLOTH, the glen of the rivulet Loth, in
the parish of Loth, on the east coast of Sutherland-
shire.
GLENLUCE, a valley in Wigtonshire, stretching
from the head of Luce bay northward to the extre-
mity of the shire. Most of it is comprised in the
modern parishes of Old Luce and New Luce. The
valley had its name from being traversed over its
whole length by the river Luce. In some ancient
Latin documents, it is called Vallis Lueis, ' the val-
ley of light ;' a name which may have been derived,
either from the valley being deep and broad, and
laying its bosom fully open to the play of the day-
beams, or more probably from its being the site of
an ancient abbey whence, in the estimation doubt-
less of the ante-reformation inhabitants, emanated
all the moral light enjoyed by the circumjacent
district. But the really original name was Glen-
lus, from the Scoto-Irish glen, ' a valley,' and hts,
' an hero ;' and seems to have been descriptive of the
fertility or horticultural capabilities of its soil. The
appellation Glcnluce — though, as applied to the
valley, seldom used — is yet fully identified with its
village and with the ruins and history of its abbey.
GLENLUCE, a post-office village in the parish
of Old Luce, Wigtonshire. It stands on the road
from Stranraer to Newton-Stewart, on the slope of
a little valley, traversed by a small tributary of the
river Luce, half-a-mile east of the confluence of the
streams, and about 1J mile from the most inland
point of Luce bay. The beautiful seat of Balcail,
j of a mile, to the south-east, and the extension on
all sides of its fine wooded policies, give the village an
aspect of opulence and comfort. Glenluce, though
a place of no trade, and deriving nearly all its im-
portance from its relation to the circumjacent agri-
cultural district, has risen from a population of be-
tween 200 and 300, in 1817, to a present population
of about 1,013. It has an office of the City of Glas-
gow Bank. An annual hiring fair is held in May,
and a cattle market on the first Friday of every
month from April to December. Public vehicle's
run between Glenluce and Stranraer. In the vil-
lage are a Free church and an United Presbyte-
rian Church, and a little out of it, on the north-west
side, stands the parish-church of Old Luce.
The ruins of the abbey of Glenluce stand 1 J mile
north-west of the village, on the left bank of the
river Luce. They cover an entire acre of surface,
and present distinct indications of ancient vastness
and magnificence. The chapter-bouse still stands
entire, and continues to bear its appropriate name.
It is a small apartment, on the east side of the
square of ruin, sending up at its centre from floor
to roof a strong pillar about 14 feet in height, from
whose top 8 divergent arches span the intervening
space to the surrounding walls. The arches are of
white freestone, and are curiously sculptured at
their highest elevation into various ornamental
figures. So late as 1646, nearly a century after
most other monasteries in Scotland had been de-
stroyed, the abbey of Glenluce had sustained little
injury. In 1684, Symson says, in his Account of
Galloway, that the steeple and a part of the walls of
the church, together with the- chapter-house, the
walls of the cloisters, the gatehouse, and the walls
of the large precincts, were, for the most part, then
standing. A field adjacent to it was anciently a
cemetery, and is still the burying-place of the Hays
of Park. A garden and orchard, 12 Scots acres in
extent, formerly belonged to the convent, and now
forms the glebe of the minister of Old Luce. The
abbey was founded in 1 190, by Poland, Lord of Gal-
loway, and constable of Scotland ; and was set apart
for monks of the Cistertian order, brought from
Melrose. In 1214, William was abbot ; a man none
otherwise known than as the author of an extant
letter to the Prior of Melrose, giving an account of
a remarkable phenomenon in the heavens, observed
by two of his monks. In 1235, the monastery was
plundered, during the judicial inroad upon the re-
bel Gallowegians, by the lawless soldiery of Alex-
ander II. In the reign of James IV., Walter was
abbot, — having been sent to Glenluce by John,
Duke of Albany. In 1507, when James IV., with
his Queen Margaret, was on his pilgrimage to
Whithorn, he called at Glenluce, and gave the gar-
dener a present of four shilling's. In 1514, died the
abbot, Cuthbert Baillie, who, for the two preceding
years, was lord-treasurer of Scotland, and who, pre-
vious to Ills obtaining the abbacy, was first a canon
in the chapter of Glasgow, and next rector of Cum-
nock. In 1560, a papal hull arrived from Borne,
confirming the King's appointment of Thomas Hay,
of the house of Park, to be commendator of the ab-
bey ; and is still preserved among the archives of
his lineal descendant, Sir James D. Hay, Bart., the
principal resident heritor of Old Luce. In 1587,
the whole property of the monastery was, by the
general annexation act, vested in the King. In
1602, James VI. erected it into a temporal barony
in favour of its commendator, Lawrence Gordon,
second son of Alexander, bishop of Galloway,
and titular archbishop of Athens. In 1610, at the
death of Lawrence, his brother. John Gordon, dear
AiTiTlarion &.C? London &.Ea.nilurt;L.
GLENLUDE.
807
GLENMOKE.
of Salisbury — a person of high literary reputation
as an author — received it by royal charter; and ho
immediately transferred it, as the dowry of his
daughter, Louisa, to his son-in-law, Sir Robert Gor-
don of Gordonston. In 1613, it was purchased from
the latter possessor by the King, and annexed to the
bishopric of Galloway. In 1041, on the temporary
abrogation of Episcopacy, it was transferred to the
university of Glasgow ; in 1681, it was restored to
there-erected see of Galloway ; and after the final
overthrow of Episcopacy in 1689, it was once more
made a temporal barony, and bestowed on the fa-
mily of Dalrvmple, afterwards Earls of Stair.
GLENLUDE, a lateral glen of the parish of Glen-
holm, Peebles-shire.
GLENLUI, a glen in the upper part of Braemar,
Aberdeenshire. It descends about 7 miles south-
eastward from the declivities of Benmacdhu to the
glen of the Dee, at a point about 3i miles below the
linn of Dee. It contains some remarkable scenery,
and is a chief avenue of communication between the
Cairngorm mountains and Deeside.
GLENLYON, a long narrow vale in the district
of Breadalbane, and parish of Fortingal, Perthshire.
It extends from Loch Lyon on the west, away east-
ward, near the southern verge of Fortingal, a dis-
tance of about 28 miles, and is traversed throughout
by the river Lyon, from which it receives its name.
Its breadth is very inconsiderable, — seldom, in the
level part, exceeding a furlong, — and in some places
so squeezed in by the hills, as to contain a space of
only 8 or 10 yards for the transit of the river. Its
flanking eminences, on both sides, but especially on
the southern, come down upon it with such speedy
declivity as to ward off from it the sun-beams, and
render it a valley of shadows during the entire day
of the winter months, and during a large portion of
every other day of the year. But the sides of the
glen, up to the very summits of the hills, are, in gen-
eral, green with herbage and dotted over witli
sheep, lying like pearls on plates of emerald ; and
streaked at intervals, with the foaming waters of
brooks, careering over impediments, and forming
cataracts and cascades on their impetuous way to
the river, or cloven down with fairy dells which
bringdown their quiet and smiling rills from a dis-
tance of 3 or 4 miles inland, they present many a
picture of mingled beauty and romantic grandeur.
Nor are the general effects of the landscape less
heightened, by the singular careerings and natural
beauties of the river. See Lyon (The). "We drove
7 miles," says Miss Sinclair in her ' Northern Cir-
cuit,' " through the narrow mountainous vale of
Glenlyon, an exquisite specimen of Highland beau-
ty, being enlivened by the sparkling river, and
hemmed in by hills glowing with heather. It might
have made a schoolboy tremble to see how the
birches were waving over our heads; and here the
mountains are so lofty, that villages lying at their
base are three or four months every year without
seeing the sun. The river Lyon, which now looked
like a flood of light, once ran red with the blood of
the slaughtered Macgregors [M'lvers], when, after
a fierce conflict, the conquerors washed their
swords in the stream. Not a feature in this land-
scape could be altered without injury, and a painter
might advantageousl}' spend his whole life in tak-
ing views, every one of which would appear com-
pletely different. In some places you seem to have
discovered an unknown world, never trod by hu-
man footstep, then comes an old ruin, hiding its
decay in wreaths of ivy and roses, next appears a
smiling village, afterwards a long colonnade of su-
perb plane or ash trees, then a thriving farm, here
and there a church ; and the old burying-ground at
Fortingal is particularly interesting." Much ol
the glen, especially toward its upper end, is distri-
buted into very large sheep-farms, and, in conse-
quence, has few human inhabitants. A battle is
traditionally reported to have been fought in Glen-
lyon, between the M'lvers. who claimed it as their
territory, and Stewart of Garth, commonly called
"the fierce wolf;" and it is said to have terminated
in the utter defeat of the M'lvers, and their expul-
sion from the district. Several of the localities ap-
pear to have acquired their names from the event
or the circumstances of the battle.
Excepting a small part at its lower end, the
whole of Glenlyon, with some parts of its flanking
uplands, was erected into a quoad sacra parish by
the ecclesiastical authorities in 1833, and by the
Court of Teinds in June 1845. The parish measures
26 miles in extreme length, from 6 to 8 miles in
breadth, and about 156 miles in superficial area,
and was detached in a small degree from Weem, but
chiefly from Fortingal. Patron, the Crown. Sti-
pend, £120, paid by government ; glebe from £2 to
£3. The parish-church is situated at Innerwick,
and was built in 1828 by the heritors of the new
parish, at the cost of £673, and contains between
500 and 600 sittings. There is also a Free church ;
and the sum raised in connexion with it in 1865 was
£143 12s. Sd. A small Baptist congregation was
established about the year 1805 at Milton of Eonan.
Two fine objects in Glenlyon are Miggernie castle
and Glenlyon house. Glenlyon gives the title of
Baron in the peerage of Great Britain to the Duke
of Athole.
GLENMANNOW. See Penpont.
GLENMARK. See Glexesk.
GLENMARKIE, a lateral glen of the parish of
Glenisla, Forfarshire.
GLENMASSAN. See Dukoon.
GLENMEUBLE, a deep and dismal glen, about
ten miles long, extending south-eastward from Loch-
Mom' toward Glenfinnan, through the central part
of the district of Arisaig, on the west coast of Inver-
ness-shire.
GLENMILL. See Campsie.
GLENMORE, a narrow vale, chiefly in the parish
of Fortingal, and partly in that of Dull, Perthshire.
It lies immediately south of the remarkable moun-
tain Schichallion, first stretching 2§ miles along
that mountain's southern base, and next running 3 j
miles south-eastward and southward, to a conver-
gence with the vale of Fortingal. Over its whole
length, it is traversed by Glenmore water, a tribu-
tary of the river Lyon, rising a little westward of
the head of the glen, and forming, for 2 miles above
Its embouchure, the boundary between Fortingal
and Dull. In ancient times "the glen was covered
with the extinct forest of Schichallion. During a
long period, the roots of fir-trees and the trunks of
oaks, furnished a profitable produce to the natives.
The fir-roots were not only excellent fuel, but, when
in a state of combustion, emitted a light surpassing
the brilliance of coal-gas. The oak-trunks, dug up
from beneath the soil, were of a blackish colour, and
though somewhat soft, became very hard on expo-
sure to the air; and they were split up and manu-
factured into sharpening tools for scythes, and found
in the neighbouring places of traffic a ready market.
GLENMORE, a vale or district, partly in Moray-
shire, and partly in Inverness-shire, abounding with
fir-wood of excellent quality, on the property of Sir
George Grant and the Duke of Richmond. This
wood is considered the oldest and best in Scotland.
It surrounds Loch-Morlich, the source of the Aber-
nethy or Druie, and is upwards of 4 miles in length,
and nearly 3 in breadth. In 1786, the late Duke of
GLENMORE.
808
GLENMUICK.
Gordon sold his fir-woods in this district to Mr. Os-
bonrne, a wood-merchant in Hull, for £10,000 ster-
ling; and they were nearly all floated down the
Spey to Garraouth. Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, in
his edition of ' Gilpin's Forest Scenery,' says : " Nu-
merous trading - vessels, and a frigate called the
Glenmore, were built from the timber of the Duke
of Gordon's forest of Glenmore. Many of the trees
felled measured 18 and 20 feet in girth ; and there
is still preserved at Gordon-Castle, a plank nearly
6 feet in breadth, which was presented to the Duke
by the company. The forests of Glenmore and
Rothiemurehus, though belonging to different es-
tates, were so united as to form in reality one con-
tinuous forest, and they are now equally denuded of
all their finest timber. We remember this a region
of such wildness, where its calm, silent lakes were
for ever reflecting from their dark bosoms the end-
less forests of pine, which rose distance after dis-
tance over the broken sides of their minor hills and
more lofty mountains, and where the scenes we
wandered through were such as the florid imagina-
tion of a poet might fancy, but could not describe.
Alas ! the numerous lakes and the hills and the
mountains are yet there, but the forests shall no
more bewilder both the steps and the imagina-
tion of the stranger, till time shall give the same
aged forms to those younglings which are every-
where springing up in the room of their ancestors.
Tlie Glenmore forest is fast replenishing itself.
Nothing could be more savagely picturesque than
that solitary scene when we visited it some years
ago. At that time, many gigantic skeletons of trees
above 20 feet in circumference, but which had been
so tar decayed at the time the forest was felled
as to be unfit for timber, had been left standing,
most of them in prominent situations, their bark in
a great measure gone — many of them without leaves,
and catching a pale unearthly-looking light upon
their grey trunks and bare arms, which were
stretched forth towards the sky like those of wizards,
as if in the act of conjuring up the storm which was
gathering in the bosom of the mountains, and which
was about to burst forth at their call." See Aber-
nethy.
GLENMORE, a narrow glen, almost a gorge,
about 10 miles long, in the parish of Torosay.in the is-
land of Mull, Argyleshire. It is the route by which
the inhabitants of the south-west of Mull communi-
cate with the other parts of that island, particularly
with the sea-board of the Sound of Mull. It is
winding as well as narrow, and is overhung in
many places by stupendous mural precipices, or by
wildly acclivitous mountains; and the highest part
of its bottom has an altitude of about 300 feet above
the level of the sea.
GLENMORE, a wild valley of 5 or 6 miles in
length, bringing down a head-stream of the Lugar,
in the upper part of the parish of Auchinleck, Ayr-
shire.
GLENMORE, the larger of the two valleys com-
prised in the district of Glenelg proper, in Inverness-
shire. See Glenelg.
GLENMORE, a vale in the island of Bute. See
Ettkick Bay.
GLENMORE, a small glen on the south side of
the promontory of Ardnamurchan, in Argyleshire.
A bay at the mouth of it, called Glenmore bay,
about & a mile west of the first narrows or group of
islands in Loch Sunart, affords excellent anchorage.
GLENMORE-NAN'ALBIN, or Great Glen op
Scotland, the grand valley which runs in a direc-
tion from north-east to south-west across the whole
breadth of the kingdom, from the Moray frith at
Inverness to the sound of Mull below Fort-William,
and the bottom of which is almost rilled with a
chain of extensive lakes. The distance in a direct
line is little more than 50; miles and of this the
navigable lakes, Loch Ness, Loch Oich, and Loch
Lochy make nearly 40 miles. It is through this
glen that the Great Caledonian canal runs. See
Caledonian Canal.
GLENMORISTON, a glen, containing a post-
oifice station of its own name, in the north ot In-
verness-shire. It comprises all the parts of the
course of the rivulet Moriston within Inverness-
shire, and gives name to a parish which is united to
TJrquhart. See Moriston (The), and Urquhart
and Glenmoriston. The glen is about 12 miles in
length, and descends north-eastward from the boun-
dary with Ross-shire, past the south-western skirls
of Mealfourvounie, to the great glen, at Invennoiis-
ton on Loch Ness, G miles north-east of Fort- Augus-
tus. Nearly the whole of it is brilliantly picturesque,
and exhibits a remarkable mass of wood; and the
mouth of it, opening on the great glen, is particu-
larly fine. Glenmoriston House there, the residence
of j. M. Grant, Esq., the proprietor ol'the glen, is a
modernised old-fashioned pile, beautifully situated
on wooded grounds, with an encincturement of
pretty high abrupt hills. A road leads up the glen
from Inverness to Lochalsh. Glenmoriston has a
mission of the Royal bounty, and a Roman Catholic
chapel. There is also a Free church for Glenmor-
iston and Fort-Augustus.
GLENMUICK, a parish containing the post-office
village of Ballater, in the district of Marr, Aberdeen-
shire. It comprehends the three ancient parishes
of Glenmuick, Glengairn, and Tulloch. It is
bounded on the north by Strathdon and Logie-
Coldstone, on the east by Aboyne and Glentanar,
on the south by Forfarshire, and on the west by
Crathie and Braemar. It is of an irregular figure,
about 18 miles in length, and 15 in breadth. It is
intersected by the river Dee from west to east;
by the Gairn from north-west to south-east, till
it joins the Dee; and by the Muick from south-
west to north-east, till it also joins the Dee.
These streams are all joined by numerous others
of minor importance ; the whole forming a series
of the best trouting waters in this part of Scot-
land. Lying in the midst of the Grampians,
this parish is mostly hilly and pastoral, with sum-
mits varying from 1,000 to 2,500 feet of altitude
above sea-level. There are four continuous ranges,
and several detached heights; and two of the latter
are respectively 1,150 and 1,400 feet high. The
valleys, comprising arable land, lie along the three
rivers, and some considerable brooks; they vary in
widtli from 2 furlongs to 2 miles ; and they have
taken their magnitude and windings from the ac-
tion of the streams. Many of the hills are clothed
with wood to the very summit; others are covered
with heath and beautifully fringed along the base
with natural wood and plantations. Abundance ol
moor-game is found on these hills, particularly on
Morven, and other wild creatures also are more or
less common, particularly hawks, eagles, polecats,
otters, foxes, and red and roe-deer. The soil of the
arable lands is in general shallow and sharp, pro-
ducing good grain, but proportionally little fodder.
Agriculture has been long in a state of compara-
tively high improvement. The total area under
cultivation is 3,655 imperial acres; under wood,
3,185 ; and either pastoral or waste, 108,360. The
principal landowners are the Marquis of Huntly,
Farquharson of Invercauld, Gordon of Abergeldie,
and the Prince of Wales. The real rental is about
£5,200. The yearly value of raw produce was esti-
mated, in 1842, at .£41,379. Assessed property in
GLENMUICK.
809
GLENOGLE.
18"0, £8,015. The principal mansions are Monal-
trie-house, Birkhall, and Prince Albert's hunting-
lodge — the last situated at the head of Glenmuick
proper, on the verge of the county between Mount
ICeppel and Loehnagar. There are nine meal-mills,
andea wool-carding-mill. Tlie predominant rocUs
are gneiss, primitive limestone, trap, and boulder-
granite. The principal minerals are fluor-spar,
galena, serpentine, amianthus, common asbestos,
and bog-iron.
Glengairn, the least and most compact of the
three districts, lies chiefly to the north-west, on
both banks of the rooky Gain), extending 6 miles
north-west of the church, where the upper parts of
Tulloch begin, and separate it from the parish of
Crathie. A small part of it, called Strathgirnie, lies
on the south side of the Dee. Near the pass to
Ballater is the castle of Glengairn, in the vicinity of
which a vein of lead has been long known, though
never worked to advantage. Glenmuick proper ex-
tends south-westward, 15 miles in length, on the
south side of the Dee, lying on both sides of the
Muick, which originates in a large lake or loch of
the same name, about 9 miles from Ballater. The
Muick possesses a tolerably good fall, to which a
good road leads along the south side of the Muick.
Tlie stream dashes over a rook about 40 feet in
height into a basin below, and forms a beautiful
cascade. In this district are the celebrated wells of
Pannanich, which see. There are two ruins in
Glenmuick, namely, the tower of Knock, on the top
of a hill, and Dee castle, built by the family of Gor-
don, in the eastern extremity of the parish. Tulloch
is the most populous and extensive district, being
18 miles in length from east to west, and intersect-
ed, at the Crags of Ballater, by Glengairn, which
divides the lower parts of this district from the
upper. The hill of Culblean is in Tulloch; and at
the foot of that Mil is a beautiful lake of about 3
miles in circumference, called Loch Cannor. There
is a stone on the north bank of the lake witli a
great deal of carving upon it; hut the figures are
now unintelligible. It is supposed that it was put
up in memory of some of the Cumings who fell in
tlie chase or battle of Culblean, in 1335; and as the
Earl of Atliole fell that day, it may have been here.
On the hill of Culblean, there is a remarkable hol-
low rock, which, from its shape, bears the name of
the Vat, and through which a rivulet runs. In
going up to visit this natural curiosity, a stranger
is much struck with the narrowness of the entry
to the Vat (being less than an ordinary door),
and the large spacious area in which he imme-
diately finds himself, enclosed by rocks from 50
to CO feet high, and from the fissures of which
tall and healthy birch trees are growing. There
is one particular clift of the rook which the
eagle generally occupies as a secure asylum for
hatching and nourishing her young, and where her
nest is always to be seen. The rivulet falls down
at the upper end through broken shattered rocks,
and when flooded adds greatly to the picturesque
appearance of the whole. The Pass of Ballater,
and surrounding scenery, has been already noticed
in the article Ballater. Population of the united
parish in 1831, 2,279 ; in 1861, 1,668. Houses, 350.
This parish is in the presbytery of Kincardine
O'Neil, and synod of Aberdeen. Patron, the Mar-
quis of Huntly. Stipend, £237 Is. Id.; glebe, £7
10s. Schoolmaster's salary, £52 10s. Od., with about
£22 fees and other emoluments, and a share in the
Dick bequest. The parish church is situated in
Ballater, was built in 1798, and contains about 800
sittings. There is a missionary chapel on the Royal
bounty at Rinloan in Glengairn. There is a Free
church at Ballater; and the sum raised in connexion
with it in 1865 was £202 4s. 3d. There is a Ro-
man Catholic chapel onGairnside. There are seven
non-parochial schools in the united parish, and sev-
eral beneficiary institutions in Ballater.
GLENMUIR, a wild moorish vale, between
Wardlaw-hill and Cairntable, on the eastern verge of
the district of Kyle, Ayrshire. It has been rendered
interesting by the beautiful poem called 'the Ca-
meraman's Dream,' beginning, —
"In Glenmuir's wild solitudes lengthened and deep
Were the whistling of plovers and bleating of sheep."
The author of this exquisite poem lived, when a
boy, in the midst of this sequestered glen, at a place
called Dalblair, where his fine poetic genius was
stimulated and nurtured by the mingled scenes of
soft beauty and wild grandeur witli which lie was
surrounded. Glenmuir-shaw, near the head of the
vale, is a pleasant spot ; and must in former times
have been a place of great consequence, as the ruins
of its ancient baronial eastle still indicate. Some
lordly chieftain of the Saxon line seems to have se-
lected it as the locality in which he chose to live in
a state of rude splendour, and which must have been
witnessed by the lonely sentinels that still guard
the spot, — the stately trees, whose dotard boughs
and scaly rind bespeak the age of several centuries.
He who sighs after a sweet meditative seclusion
will find that seclusion at Glenmuir-shaw.
GLENNEVIS, the glen of the rivulet Nevis, in the
south-west of Lochaber, Inverness-shire. It com-
mences at a point about 6 miles south-east of the
summit of Bennevis, and curves round the south-
eastern, southern, and south-western skirts of that
mountain, to the Great Glen in the vicinity of Fort-
William.
GLENNOE, a glen about 4 miles long, descending
between Bencruachan and Bencochail to Loch Etive
in Argyleshire. The lower part of it is finely
wooded.
GLENNY-LAW. See Aberxvte.
GLENOGILV1E. See Glammis.
GLENOGLE, a district and an estate in the par-
ish of Tannadice, Forfarshire. It has a school and
a small public library of its own.
GLENOGLE, a wild gloomy glen, little else than
a prolonged alpine gorge, in tlie parishes of Killin
and Balquhidder, Perthshire. It extends south-
south-eastward to the head of Loch Earn, is about .'!J
miles long, and brings down the road from Killin to
Strathearn. The Queen traversed it on occasion of
her journey from Taymouth to Drummond-castle.
"This glen," says Campbell, in his 'Journey through
Parts of North Britain,' " is narrow, and a moun-
tain-stream, collected from a hundred more which in
times of heavy rain run down the furrowed steeps ol
the glen, brawls along through a deep chasm till the
lake receives it. The rugged sides of Glenogle exhi-
bit terrible marks of former and recent convulsions
of the earth. As we advance into this narrow wild,
on either hand we behold rocks whose deep-cloven
summits, high over head, hang in sullen aspect, and
seem read}' to start into shivers and overwhelm the
traveller, who sees no way of avoiding the threat-
ened destruction. This illusion is heightened, in
observing on our left huge piles, but lately rolled
down the brow of that precipice, strewed in every
direction, and of indefinite dimensions, from the
smallest splinter to fragments of immense bulk, all
tumbled together in the wildest disorder. We pass
swiftly by this awful appearance, lest nature, in con-
vulsive throes, similar to what produced the explo-
sion of which the scene before us was the terrible
effect, should again precipitate the impending ruin.
On looking baek through this rugged defile, we
QLENOIG.
810
GLENORCHY.
have a glimpse of the lake, and the hills that rise
from its margin ; behind which, the cliffs of Ben-
voirlich and Stuichactroin tower in lofty grandeur,
and give a noble air to the gloomy wildness of this
truly alpine scene."
GLENOIG, a lateral glen of the district of Glen-
prosen, Forfarshire.
GLENORCHY AND INN[SHAIL, an united
parish, containing the post-office villages of Bun-
awe and Dalmally, in the district of Lorn, Argyle-
sliire. Glenorchy proper is on the east, and Innis-
liiiil on the west. The united parish extends from
the boundary with Perthshire near Tyndrum to the
shores of Loch Etive at Bunawe, comprising eight
miles of both sides of Loch Awe ; and also extends
from the boundary with Dumbartonshire across the
head of Loch Long to the lofty line of watershed
which divides Mid-Lorn from Appin. The parishes
with which it marches are Fortingal, Killin, Arro-
char, Inveraiy, Kilmorick, Kilchrenan, Muckairn,
Ai'dchattan, and Lismore. Its length westward is
about 25 miles ; its breadth varies from 5 miles to
20; its average breadth is about 12 miles; audits
superficial extent is about 300 square miles. The
greater part of it is either mountainous or moorish ;
and a large part shares the beauties of Loch Awe,
or rather comprises the most picturesque portions of
that lake. The northern district is mainly filled
with the mighty masses of Bencruachan and' its at-
tendant alps. The eastern district is variously
mountain, glen, and moorland. The southern dis-
trict is chiefly hilly or moorish, possessing no lofty
elevations, yet largely disposed in waste land and
pasture. See Behcruachan, Bendorax, Dalmally,
and Awe (Loch). The principal vales are Glen-
strae and Glenlochy, which will be found separately
noticed in their own alphabetical place, and Glen-
orchy proper, which first descends 15 miles south-
south-westward from the confines of Rannoch and
Appin, and then expands westward to Loch Awe,
in a fine strath of 3 miles in length, and J a mile in
breadth. The principal streams are the Awe, the
Orchy, the Strae, and the Lochy ; but there are
numerous rivulets which, in common with these
streams, abound in trout. The principal lake, ad-
ditional to Loch Awe, is Loch Tolla, a lovely sheet
of water, 4 miles long and J a mile broad, among
the braes of Glenorchy.
The soil, on the sides of Orchy Water, is a mix-
ture of light earth and sand; but on the banks of
Loch Awe it is generally deep and fertile. The
hills and moors — which formerly were covered with
heath and coarse herbage — have, since the intro-
duction of sheep into the country, become clothed
with a richer sward of a greener hue, and afford ex-
cellent pasture. In former times it was supposed
that no domestic animal could stand the severities
of a winter here, in the more elevated grounds ; but
now the hills are covered with sheep through the
whole year. There are still some tracts of natural
wood in Glenorchy, chiefly of firs and oaks, inter-
mixed with ash, birch, and alder. The banks of
Loch Awe are covered with plantations of various
kinds of wood, of which the horse-chestnut, the
mountain-ash, the lime, and the plane, are the most
conspicuous. The Marquis of Breadalbane is sole
proprietor of the parish of Glenorchy ; and the Duke
of Argyle, Campbell of Lochnell, Campbell of Mon-
zie, Normand of Ardvrecknish, Campbell of lnver-
awe, and Macalister of Inchdrynich are proprietors
of Innishail. The mansions are Ardvrecknish, In-
verawe, and Inchdrynich. The principal produce is
in sheep and cattle, and must be of great value.
The other departments of raw produce are computed
to yield annually £2,350 for grain, £2,000 for pota-
toes and turnips, and £300 for salmon and trout
fisheries. There is a pig iron manufactory at Bun-
awe. The road from Fort-William to Dumbarton,
the road from Oban to Dumbarton, and the con-
necting road between these down Glenorchy proper,
traverse the parish ; and part of the second, from
the bridge of Awe to Dalmally, presents a fine
succession of varied, sublime, and brilliant views,
particularly a portion of it through a narrow defile,
amid deep chasms and impending rocks. Cobalt,
talc, abestine filaments, and a beautiful green jasper,
have been found in the mountains, which are mostly
of granite, with porphyry and a mixture of felspar.
Limestone is quarried in several places. Popu-
lation of the united parish in 1831, 1,806; in 1861,
1,307. Houses, 259. Assessed property in 1860,
£9,184.
At the east end of Loch Awe, on a rocky point,
stand the fine ruins of the castle of Kilchl-rx :
which see. There is another ruinous castle at
Achallader, in the upper part of the parish. Near
this castle, a fatal conflict took place about two cen-
turies ago, between two hostile clans ; and several
cairns, still visible on the heath, mark the place
where the slain were interred. In the island of In-
nishail, in Loch Awe, the remains of a small mon-
astery, with its chapel, are still to be seen. Glen-
orchy was at one time the property of the warlike
clan Macgregor, who were gradually driven from
the territory before the influence of the rival elan
Campbell. The gallows-hill of Glenorchy, famed
in Highland tradition as the place of expiation of
many criminals obnoxious to the summary justice of
Macgregor, is an eminence opposite the parish
church. The well-known lines of Sir Walter Scott
on the expulsion of the Macgregors from the several
glens of the parish, are among the most effective
he ever wrote. Not a Macgregor now exists in the
district ; and individuals of some other septs, who
were once powerful here, particularly the Macnabs,
the Fletchers, the Downies, and the Macnicols, have
become very scarce. Even human society altoge-
ther has been enormously reduced in numbers here,
as in other similar districts of the Highlands, by
the introduction of the sheep husbandry. The an-
cestors of the late Angus Fletcher of Berenice, au-
thor of a well-known political work upon Scotland,
were, according to the traditions of the country,
the first who raised smoke or boiled water on the
braes of Glenorchy.
This parish is in the presbytery of Lorn, and ay
nod of Argyle. Patrons, the Duke of Argyle and
the Marquis of Breadalbane. Stipend, £206 2s. 4d. ;
glebe, £18. There are two parish churches, — the
one in Glenorchy, the other in Innishail ; and the
minister officiates in them on alternate Sabbaths.
Glenorchy church stands on an islet in the Orchy,
at Dalmally, it was built in 1811, after a design
by James Elliot of Edinburgh ; and it constitutes a
very beautiful feature in one of the loveliest land-
scapes in the Highlands. Innishail church was
built in 1773, enlarged in 1793, and repaired re-
cently, but is so badly situated as to be cut off
by Loch Awe from a considerable part of the popu-
lation. The sittings in Glenorchy church are 570 ;
in Innishail church, 191. A place of worship was
built at the bridge of Orchy, 11 miles north-north-
east of Dalmally, originally as a mission church
in connexion with the Establishment, and after-
wards endowed by the good Lady Glenorchy. There
is a Free church at Dalmally; and the sum raised
in connexion with it in 1865 was £99 2s. 6id. There
are two parish-schools in Innishail, the masters
of which have each £30 per annum ; and there
is one parish-school in Glenorchy, the master
GLENPROSEN.
811
GLENROY.
of which has a salary of £50. There are several
other schools, which are either upheld hy societies
or endowed ; and there is a parochial library. Two
distinguished natives of Glenorchv were Dr. Smith,
the translator of the Scriptures into Gaelic, and
Duncan Macintvre, the Highland bard.
GLENPROSEN, the upper and middle parts of
the basin of the rivulet Prosen, in Forfarshire.
These comprehend all the Grampian portions of the
basin, down to the point where the stream debouches
into Sirathmore ; and they constitute the detached
or upland district of the parish of Kirriemuir. See
Prosen (The), and Kirriemuir.
GLENQUAICH. See Gi.exq.oech.
GLENQUHARGEN CRAIG, a romantic moun-
tainous mass of rock, near the northern extremity
of the parish of Penpont, in the district of Niths-
dale, Dumfries-shire. Amidst remarkably varied
Highland scenery, abounding in the wilder beauties
of nature, it forms the most remarkable feature, pre-
senting irregular and precipitous fronts to the south
and south-west, and towering above the river Scan-
at its base to the height of 1,000 feet above the level
of the sea.
GLENQUHARY, a cleuch in the parish of Kirk-
connel, above Kirkland, and a little to the west of
the beautiful valley of Glenaylmer. Glenquhary
heights command on the south an extensive view of
the delightful vale of the Nith ; on the north, they
overlook one of the most perfect solitudes in nature,
and of vast extent, reaching forward to Glenmuir
water. The cleuch is a retired and deep recess
among the mountains, and a locality extremely fa-
vourable to those who were under hiding, in the
times of the Covenanters, on account of the facili-
ties it afforded of escape to the hills, and to the
dreary desert that lay beyond.
G^LENQUICKEN'MOOR, a moor in the parish
of Kirkmabreck, on the south-west border of Kirk-
cudbrightshire. Tradition asserts that a battle was
fought here in very early times, — probably between
the Britons and the Romans ; and'there have been
found in the place rude stone coffins, containing un-
commonly large human skeletons.
GLENQUIECH, the glen of the rivulet Quiech
and of Loch Quiech or Quoich, on the north-west
border of Inverness-shire. It commences on the
confines of Ross-shire, and descends semicircularly,
with the convexity south-westward, to the head of
Glengarry, — and in fact is itself the upper part of
that glen. Its entire length is about 7 miles. Dr.
Robertson, in his Agricultural Survey of Inverness-
shire, says, " The Glenquiechs — of which several are
in the Highlands — are oblate ellipses, narrow at
both ends, and comparatively broad at the middle.
The name is borrowed from the shape of the silver
cup with which the Scotch used to drink their fa-
vourite liquor before the introduction of glasses."
GLENQUIECH, a small glen and an estate in the
parish of Tannadice, Forfarshire.
GLENQUIECH, a glen in the parishes of Ken-
more and Dull, Perthshire. It descends about 6
miles semicircularly eastward, with its convexity
southward, to the head of Loch-Fraochy, through
which its rivulet Quiech passes to form the Bran ;
so that Glenquiech is practically the upper part of
Strath bran.
GLENQUIECH, the glen of the Coiehor Quiech,
in the parish of Crathie, Aberdeenshire.
GLENQUIECH (North and South), the glens of
the North Quiech and the South Quiech rivulets, on
the mutual border of Perthshire and Kinross-shire.
GLENQUOICH. See Geekquiech.
GLENRANZA, the glen of the Ranza rivulet,
which runs about 4 miles north-north-westward to
the head of Loch Ranza, and forms the boundary-
line between the parish of Kilbride and the parish
of Kihnorie, in the island of Arran.
GLENRATH, a lateral glen, 3 miles long, in the
east side of the parish of Manor, Peebles-shire.
GLENRINNES. See Aberlour.
GLENRISKA, a lateral glen, traversed by one of
the early affluents of the Tweed, in the parish of
Tweedsmuir. Peebles-shire.
GLEN ROSA, a sublimely p'cturesque glen, in
the middle of the east side of the island of Arran.
It descends from the west shoulder of Goatfell, 3
miles southward to the east base of Ben Noosh, and
in all that reach is grandly alpine; and then, with
softening features, it deflects 2J miles east-south-
eastward to the convergence of glens at the head of
Brodick bay.
GLENROY, a deep wild Highland vale, parallel
to the Great Glen of Scotland, and at the average
distance of about 4 or 5 miles from it, in the parish
of Kilmanivaig, in Lochaber, Inverness-shire. It is
celebrated for its parallel roads, as they are called,
on which many treatises have been written, and
which have given rise to many conflicting theories.
It may be regarded as a lateral branch of Glenspean.
It is a lonsr, narrow, winding, and steep ravin ,
nearly 14 miles in length, with a breadth of little
more than half-a-mile, through the entire extent of
which, a rapid stream called the Roy dashes down
to join the Spean, on the right bank, at the Bridge
of Roy. At its entrance, the scenery of the glen is
comparatively tame and uninteresting. Except in
the bottom, where the Roy runs betwixt a line of
low dwarfish trees, there is no timber in the lower
end of the glen. About a mile and a-half up, the
road enters a fine oak coppice, and crosses the Roy
by a high stone bridge. We now enter the inha-
bited portion of the glen. Four villages, — Upper
and Lower Bahantin, Bahinnie, and Creaiiachan, —
are here situated within a mile. They consist re-
spectively of from 10 to 20 houses, and are inhabited
chiefly by Macdonalds. Beyond Upper Bahantin.
the road passes Brogich, and the commencement of
the parallel roads is observed on the high hill of
Benvanicaig on the left. A few yards farther for-
ward, the three lines are seen distinctly, one over
the other, on the hill of Creanachan, on the right.
" Curiosity is excited by finding that the same de-
scription of lines are marked on both sides of the
glen ; and that not only do the lines on the same
side run parallel to each other, but that the lines on
both sides occupy the same horizontal levels. As
you proceed into the glen, the lines become more
marked; and upon ascending to them, the traveller
finds that they are ample terraces or roads project-
ing from the sloping side of the mountain, and com-
posed of a mixture of clay and gravel. These terra-
ces are of varying breadth, — at some parts projecting
only a few feet from the side of the hill, and at others
swelling out into magnificent pathways 18 or 20
yards wide. Where the surface of the hill is com-
posed of bare, sharp rock, the roads are entirely
effaced; but these gaps are too insignificant to de-
stroy the unbroken continuity of the lines when
viewed along two or three miles of the glen. The
first or lowest terrace is 972 feet above the level of
the sea; the second is 1.184 feet; and the third or
highest is 1,266. feet. One or two detached rocks
tower up out of the centre of the valley, and or.
these, as well as on the lateral mountains, a line
corresponding with the lowest terrace is discovered."
The parallel roads are not confined to Glenroy.
Similar appearances occur in Glenspean, Glencloy,
and the adjoining valleys, as well as in the neigh-
bourhood of Loch Laggan, Fort-William, and other
GLENS.
812
GLENSHERRIG.
parts of the Highlands, and in various other quar-
ters of Scotland.
GLENS (The), a mission of the Committee of the
General Assembly for managing the Royal bounty,
in the parish of Ardchattan, Argyleshire.
GLENSALLOCH, a loftily situated glen, forming
the line of communication between Loch-Etive and
Loch-Creran, in Lorn, Argyleshire. The views from
it, when in sight of either loch, are very fine.
GLENSANDA HILL, a hill on the coast of Kin-
gerloch, in the parish of Lismore, Argyleshire. A
cave in this hill, not far from its base, has been used
as the school-house of the surrounding district. On
a conical rock, adjacent to it, close to the shore, is
the ruin of an ancient castle, pretty entire, called
the castle of Glensanda or Castle Mearnaig. The
rock is about 150 feet high, and no broader at the
top than the base of the castle, which is 45 feet by
20. The ruin is 33 feet high, and has a beautiful
echo.
GLENSANNOX, the glen of the South Sannox
rivulet, in the island of Arran. It is about 4 miles
in length, with north-easterly direction ; and it
wends close round the north skirt of Goatfell to
the sea, and is peculiarly noted for the romantic
magnificence of its scenery. Macculloch was en-
raptured with it, and pronounced it " the sublime
in magnitude, and simplicity, and obscurity, and
silence." A manufactory for bary tes was established
here in 1839. See Sannox. But the glen appears
previously to have undergone that sweeping away of
men by the introduction of the sheep husbandry which
has depopulated so many other parts of the High-
lands. Hence does John Ramsay sa)r —
"Sannox plell
Which modern avarice has turned a field.
Once the deal- home of happy Highlandineti.
Moulder the rent green walls— the hearths are cold.
Where stood the cradle is the fox's den;
And many of her sons have found a grave
In that far world heyond the Atlantic wave."
GLENSASSEX. See Fortingal.
GLENSAX BURN, a small tributary of the
Tweed, belonging partly to Selkirkshire and partly
to Peebles-shire. It rises in Blackhouse-height, at
the commencement of a narrow but long northerly
projection of the parish of Yarrow in Selkirkshire;
runs 4£ miles along that projection to nearly its ex-
tremity ; forms, for 3 furlongs, the boundary-line
between Selkirkshire and Peebles-shire ; traverses
the latter county first li mile northward, next 1
mile eastward, and then falls into the Tweed 1 J mile
below the town of Peebles. At its mouth, and a
little way up, it is often, in consequence of there
watering the demense of Haystone, called Haystone-
burn. In the upper part of its course it flows through
hleak scenery; but in the lower part it is a mirth-
ful stream, dressed in keeping with the magnificent
appearance of the Tweed in the vicinity of Peebles,
and affording good trouting.
GLENSHEE, the glen of the rivulet Shee, on the
east side of the parish of Kirkmichael, at the north-
east extremity of Perthshire. It commences at a
convergence of three smaller glens, — Glenbeg, Glen-
talnich, and Glenlochy, — 5h miles south-west of the
point in the Grampians where the counties of Perth,
Forfar, and Aberdeen meet ; and it descends about
7 miles south-eastward and southward, toward a
convergence with Strathardle A- hill at the head
of Glenshee, called Benghulbhuinn, is distinguished
as the scene of a hunting-match which proved fatal
to Diarmid one of the Fingalian heroes. Here are
shown the den of the wild boar that was hunted, a
lochlet called the Hoar's loch, a spring called the
fountain of the Fingalians, and the spot where
Diarmid was buried by his comrades. At the Spit-
tal of Glenshee, near the head of the glen, is a chapel
built by the heritors of the parish about the year
1831. Sittings nearly 400. At the date of the Re-
ligious Instruction inquiry, the district for whose
benefit it was erected enjoyed no other religious
services than the ministrations once a-month of the
parish-minister. The population at that time was
stated at 400. The Spittal of Glenshee is a stage on
the great military road to Fort-George, 22 miles
north from Cupar-Angus, and 15 south of Castleton
of Braemar. Queen Victoria made a halt here for
refreshment on the earliest occasions of her journey-
ing to and from Balmoral. Fairs are held at the
Spittal on the third Tuesday of February, the first
Tuesda}' of June, old style, and the third Tuesday
of October, old style. There is a post-office station
at Glenshee.
GLENSHEE, the glen of the rivulet Shochie, in
the parishes of Auchtergaven and Monedie, Perth
shire. Here is a slate quarry.
GLENSHEIL, a parish, containing the post-office
station of Sheilhouse, on the south-west border o{
Ross-shire. It is bounded on the east by the par-
ishes of Kiltarlity, Urquhart, and Kilmanivaig ; on
the south by Glenelg ; on the west by the Kyle Rhea ,
and on the north by Loch-Duich, which separates it
from Lochalsh and Kintail. Its greatest length,
from east to west, is about 26 miles ; and its breadth
varies from 2 to G miles. The surface consists
chiefly of two valleys, Glensheil and Glenlichd, and
an elevated tract of land on the south bank of Loch-
Duich, called Letterfearn. The mountain ridges
abruptly rise to a very great height. In many
places the mountains are rocky, and covered with
heath to the summit; the interjacent valleys are
pleasant, being clothed with grass and some natural
wood; but the proportion of arable ground is very
inconsiderable. The shores abound with fish, and
Loch-Duich receives an annual visit from shoals oi
herring. The lower end of Glensheil is occupied bv
Loch-Shiel. See Letterfearn, Duich (Loch), and
Shiel (Loch). The predominant rock is gneiss, occa-
sionally alternating with mica slate. A tract of coarse-
grained granite, of a reddish hue, occurs in one place;
and there are two large masses or beds of very im-
pure primitive limestone. All this parish, as alsc
the parishes of Kintail and Lochalsh, formerly be-
longed to the family of Seaforth ; but it is now dis-
tributed among three proprietors. The real rental
is about £2,000. The yearly value of raw property
was estimated in 1830 at £6,002. Assessed pro-
perty in 1860, £3,933. In the heights of this parish
is the pass of Glensheil, famous for a battle fought
in June 1719, between the English troops and the
Highland adherents of King James, led by the Fai 1
of Seaforth, in which the latter were defeated. The
parish is traversed lengthwise by the military road
from Lochalsh to Inverness. Population in 1831,
715; in 1801,485. Houses, HI.
This parish is in the presbytery of Loch-Carron,
and synod of Glenelg. Patron, the Crown. Stipend,
£158 6s. 8d. ; glebe, £16. The parish church is sit-
uated in the eastern part of Letterfearn. It was
built in 1758, and contains about 300 sittings. The
parish school also is in Letterfearn. Salary of the
schoolmaster, £37 with about £2 fees. Glensheil
parish was disjoined about the middle of last century
from Kintail. Fairs for black cattle are held at
Sheilhouse in May, July, and September.
GLENSHELLiS. See Strachur.
GLENSHERRIG, a romantic glen, about 2 miles
in length, descending east-north-eastward to the
convergence of glens at the head of Brodick bay in
the island of Arran.
GLENSHIRA.
813
GLENURQUHART.
GLENSHIRA, a glen in the parish of Laggan, in
the western part of Badenoch, forming the basin of
the Spey for the first part of its course. Its princi-
pal feature is the grandeur of the mountains which
rise around, sending down numberless torrents, par-
ticularly from the northern side, to swell the waters
of the Spey. Mr. Baillio of Kingussie has a shoot-
ing lodge here, which made some figure in the pop-
ular notices of Quean Victoria's sojourn at Ardvcri-
kie.
GLENSHIRA, a picturesque glen, about 8 miles
long, in the parish of Inverary, Argylesbire. It lies
intermediate between Glenary and Glenfyne, some-
what parallel to both, and descends south-south-
westward to the head of the bay or fork of Loch
Fyne, a little north of the town of Inverary. It
formerly contained a burying-place of its own, and
a comparatively large population ; but it has been
swept and transmuted by the introduction of the
sheep husbandry.
GLENSHISK1N, the vale of the Blackwater, in
the south-west of the island of Anan. See Black-
wateu (The).
GLEXSLIGACHAN, the glen of Loch Sligachan,
and of the streamlet running into the head of it, in
the island of Skye. It descends about 8 miles north-
eastward from the centre of the district of Mingin-
ish to the coast opposite Rasay. Tart of its screens
are remarkably sublime, — more so than almost any
thing else in Scotland. See Cuchullin Hills.
GLENSPEAN, the glen of the river Spean in In-
verness-shire. It commences at the foot of Loch-
Laggan, and descends nearly 20 miles through
Lochaber, chiefly south-westward, to the great glen
at the Lochy near Loch-Lochy. See Speax (The).
The glen is all grandly Highland ; but it presents
much variety of character in its successive stages.
The upper part of it is narrow and moorish ; the
parts farther down are finely diversified with wood
and with arable plots; and the lower part, besides
having a comparatively well peopled breadth of bot-
tom, derives much sublimity from the immediate
flanking of Bennevis.
GLENSTRAE, a glen, about 7 miles long, in the
parish of Glenorchy, Argylesbire. It descends
south-south-westward to the head of the north-east
arm of Loch Awe, at the eastern base of Bencruachan.
It has sublime screen scenery, with profusion of
wild fastnesses ; and was at one time the home
of chief part of the clan Macgregor, who became
so persecuted and proscribed.
GLENSTRATHFARRER, or Glexfarrer, the
glen of the Farrer, on the northern border of Inver-
ness-shire. See Faerer (The).
GLENTAGGART. See Douglas.
GLENTANNER, an ancient parish in Aberdeen-
shire, now united to Aboyxe : which see.
GLENTARKIN. See Ears (Loch).
GLENTENDAL. See Glexdow, Argyleshire.
GLENTILT, a narrow mountain vale, 13 miles
in length, coming down from the northern extremity
of the parish of Blair-Athole in Perthshire, south-
westward and southward to its southern extremity
at Blair-castle, and there opening at right angles
into the valley of the Garry. At its lower end it
is enriched for several miles by the groves and
horticultural adornings of Blair-castle ; and has there
a bridge from which a magnificent landscape is
spread out before the eye ; but over most of its ex-
tent, especially as it recedes toward the north, it
presents in the aspect of the Tilt, by which it is tra-
versed, and of the huge mountains which form its
screens, a prospect of mingled beauty and deeply im-
pressive grandeur. On its east side, about mid-dis-
tance between its extremities, rises the vast Bengloe,
whose base is 35 miles in circumference, and whose
summit towers far above the many aspiring eminences
of the adjacent mountain-land. The kestrel has his
nest in the glen, and the eagle builds his eyry on
the overshadowing heights. Glentilt has provoked
the geological inquiries, and tested the scientific
acumen of Playfair, Maccnlloch, and other celebrate!
men. Marble of a pure white, of a light gray, and
of a beautiful and much admired green, has been
quarried in its recesses, and carried away to adorn
the dwellings of luxury and taste. Glentilt has
also become famous for a recent " right of way "
contest • for, being the only practicable route from
the district of Athole direct into Aberdeenshire, and
lying at the same time through the Duke of Athole's
deer forest, the public on the one hand claim an im-
memorial right to an open passage through it, while
the Duke of Athole, on the other hand, claims a
proprietorial right to shut it up.
GLENTINMONT. See Gle.n-esk.
GLENTRATHEN. See Lixtratiiex.
GLENTRUIM, the glen of the rivulet Truim,
about 14 miles long, in the district of Badenoch, In-
verness-shire. It commences on the confines of
Perthshire, near Loch Ericht, and goes almost right
northward to the valley of the Spey. The great
road from Perth to Inverness enters it a brief way
below its head, and traverses it all thence downward
to the Spey. A fine modern mansion was not very
many years ago built in it by Macpherson, its pro-
prietor.
GLENTURRET, a glen about 7 miles long, chiefly
along the east side of the parish of Monivaird, in
Perthshire. It commences on the confines of the
southern screen of Glenalmond, and descends south-
south-eastward to Strathearn, at a point about
half-a-mile above Crieff. It is traversed by the
rivulet Turret, flowing from a lochlet of the same
name, and has been noted by men of taste, and
celebrated in song for the romantic beauties of its
scenery.
GLENTYAN. See Kilbarciiax-.
GLENUIG, a glen about 2 miles long, descend-
ing northward to Lochnanua, in the district of
Arisaig, Inverness-shire.
GLENURCHAY. See Glexorchy.
GLENUEE, a glen, about 3 miles long, descend-
ing westward to the river Creran, in the north of the
parish of Ardchattan, Argyleshire.
GLENURQUHART, a grandly picturesque glen,
in the parish of Uiquhart and Glenmoriston, Inver-
ness-shire. It commences on the confines of the
southern screuis of the upper part of Strathglass,
and descends about 9 miles eastward, past the
northern skirts of Mealfourvounie, to the Great Glen
at a point on Loch Ness about 14 miles south-west
of Inverness. From its head at Corriemonie it gra-
dually widens out to form a fine oval expanse, con-
taining the small circular lake, Meikle, near the mid-
dle of the glen, with the mansions of Lakefield,
Lochletter, and Sheughlie. It then contracts to a
rocky gorge, and continues for some little distance
rather narrow, but again expands with increasing
breadth toward its mouth, contains there consider-
able tracts of cultivated land, both along its bot-
tom and far up its sides, and is joined there, on the
south side, at a sharp angle, by the glen of tha
Coiltie, its own vale being watered by the Ennerie.
It possesses some fine amenities of art, as well as
magnificent features of nature ; but unhappily has
of late been robbed, to a great extent, of luxuriant
birch forests which were one of its finest and largest
ornaments. It contains the parish church, a Free
church, an Episcopalian chapel, and several schools.
It contains also several labourers' hamlets, the larg-
GLENURY.
814
GOGAR.
est of which, called Milntown, has about 150 inha-
bitants.
GLENURY, a glen about 2A miles long, de-
scending south-south-eastward to Cowie Water, at
a point about If; mile above Stonehaven, parish of
Fetteresso, Kincardineshire. At the month of it is
the GHenury distillery. See Stoxehavek.
GLENVALE, adeep romantic ravine, intersecting
the Lomond hills, in the parishes of Strathmiglo
and Falkland, Fifeshire. It has some resemblance
to the glen of the Mouse at Cartland Crags, in Lan-
arkshire ; and was a place of resort by the Cove-
nanters in the times of the persecution.
GLENWHURRY. See Glenquhary.
GLESFIN WATER. See Douglas (The).
GLESTERLAW, a locality on the estate of Bol-
shan, in the parish of Kinnell, Forfarshire, where
cattle fairs are held on the last Wednesday of April,
the fourth Wednesday of June, the third AVednes-
day of August, and the Wednesday following the
12 th dav of October.
GLIMSHOLM, an isle of the Orkneys. It lies
at the west end of Holm Sound, contiguous to the
north-west corner of Barrav, and about a mile south-
east of the nearest part of Pomona.
GL1TNESS, an isle off the east coast of the main-
land of Shetland, 6 miles north by east of Lerwick.
GLOMACH (The), a fine waterfall, formed by
the Girsac, in a sequestered glen, in the parish of
Kintail, about 7 miles from the inn of Sheifhouse, in
Ross-shire. Its total height is 350 feet; but at a
distance of about 50 feet from the surface of the
pool into which it falls, it encounters a slight inter-
ruption from a projecting ledge of rock. The sur-
rounding scenery is wild, barren and rocky.
GLOOM (Castle). See CASTi.E-CAMmELi..
GLOOMINGSIDE BURN. See Clackmannan-
shire and Tillicoultry.
GLOTTA, the ancient name of the Clyde.
GLOUR O'ER 'EM. See Borrowstownness.
GLUPE (The). See Duncaxsby.
GLUSS, an isle and a small bay — the latter called
Gluss voe — in the parish of Northmavcn, in the
north of the mainland of Shetland.
GOATFELL, a magnificent mountain, 2,865 feet
high, on the north-east seaboard of the island of
Arran. It contains many superb close scenes
among its shoulders and skirts, forms a sublime
feature m the scenery of the frith of Clyde, and
commands from ita summit perfectly thrilling views
both of the rugged mountain-masses in its immediate
vicinity, and of vast part of the west of Scotland,
away to the further side of the Irish channel. See
Arran.
GOATMILK HILL, a hill in the parish of King-
lassie, flanking the vale of the Leven, in Fifeshire.
An ancient Danish fort on it was one of a chain of
forts stretching from Fifeness to Stirling.
GOCKSTANE BURN. See Kirkmahoe.
GOGAR (The), a rivulet in the eastern part of
Edinburghshire. It rises near the centre of the
parish of Kirknewton, and flows along that parish
first 2£ miles northward, and next 2J miles to the
north of east. It then, in an easterly direction, over
a distance of 1 J mile, flows right across the parish
of Ratho; and now, over a course of 3 miles, most
of it north-easterly, and the rest northerly, divides
that parish on the west from the parish of Currie on
the east. Flowing next f of a mile westward, it
divides Ratho on the south from Corstorphine on
the north; then, for 1J mile, in a northerly or
north-westerly direction, flows through Corstor-
phine; then, for f of a mile in the latter direction,
divides Corstorphine from Cramond; and finally,
after a further course of f of a mile northward
through Cramond, falls into Almond water. An-
ciently it gave name to a parish and two villages
on its banks; and still — besides meandering through
the extensive estate of Gogar — it is overlooked, in
its progress, by Gogar bank, Gogar green, Gogar
camp, Gogar mount, Gogar mains, and Gogar
house.
GOGAR, an ancient but suppressed parish in the
eastern part of Edinburghshire, incorporated chiefly
with Corstorphine, and partly with Ratho and Kirk-
liston. A small part of the church still exists, and,
soon after the Reformation, was set apart as a
family burying-place by the lord of the manor.
The church of Gogar is older than that of Corstor-
phine, but was of little value, and presided over a
scanty population. Soon after the formation of
their establishment it was acquired by the monks
of Holyrood; but, against the reign of James Y., it
had been withdrawn from them, and constituted an
independent rectory. In 1429 Sir John Forrester
conferred its tithes on the collegiate church which
he then formed at Corstorphine, and made it one of
the prebends of his collegiate establishment. In
1599, after vain efforts had been made by its few
parishioners to raise a sufficient provision for the
maintenance of an incumbent, the parish was
finally stripped of its independence. Of the two
villages of Gogar-Stone and Nether-Gogar, which
it formerly contained, the former has disappeared,
and the latter has dwindled away from a popula-
tion of 300 to a population of only about 32. The
quondam parish is traversed by the Edinburgh and
Glasgow railway, and has a station on it at a point
5J miles from Edinburgh.
In the year 1650, while the army of Oliver Crom-
well and that of General Leslie confronted and
watched each other in encampments about 3 miles
south-west and west of Edinburgh, the former
eagerly waiting for some opportunity of decided
action, and the latter resolutely determined not to
afford it, a circumstance occurred to draw them
westward into a hot skirmish at Gogar. Crom-
well's army lay at the base and among the spurs of
the Pentlands, and could not without great disad-
vantage be attacked from the plain; and Leslie's
army lay on the expanse of low ground south-
east of Corstorphine, now a firm and beautiful
series of meadows and cornfields traversed by the
Edinburgh and Glasgow railway, but then a wild
intricate, watery wilderness of bogs and quagmires.
The latter army was therefore as strongly posted
and as defiant of an enemy as Cromwell's, though in
a different way; so that the two armies could only
look at each other, or else practise some stratagem,
or forego the advantages of ground. Cromwell at
length marched down toward the west side of Leslie's
position, with a view of cutting off his communica-
tion with Linlithgow and Stirling, and drawing him
out to an engagement on the plain. But Leslie,
anticipating the movement, manoeuvered his army
westward about two miles, and entrenched them in
a position at Gogar of similar character to his
original one, and quite as strong; and there he
stood, amid bogs and quagmires, holding Cromwell
at bay. The two armies were now pretty close to
each other; yet Cromwell tried in vain to force them
into collision, either by wading across the swamps
himself or by dislodging Leslie; and he was com-
pelled to rest satisfied with opening a brisk fire of
artillery, and provoking a contest at long shot.
Leslie returned his cannonade with spirit; and on
this occasion, brought into play for the first time
several kinds of field-pieces, which had recently
been invented by his general of artillery, Colonel
Wemyss. The place of conflict is now occupied bv
GOIL.
815
GOMETKA.
the villas of Hanley and Gogar burn; and is still
known among the old inhabitants of the district by
the name of the Flashes; and is said to have got that
name in memory of the superior power and range
of the new cannons. The conflict lasted about
three hours; and though it does not seem to have
caused on both sides more than about 100 deaths, it
operated as such a severe check on Cromwell's de-
signs, that he retreated immediately to Mussel-
burgh, and four days after toward England. A
number of stone coffins have, in recent years, been
discovered on the field of conflict; and these may
possibly have belonged in part to the sepulture after
the battle, and in part to subsequent sepulture, on
(lie same spot, converted into use as a cemetery, by
the English who remained in the parish.
GOGO WATER. Bee Largs.
GOIL (Loch), a ramification of Loch-Long, in
the district of Cowal, Argyleshire. It deflects from
Eoch-Long, opposite rortincaple ferry, 8J miles
north of Strone point, where Loch-Long commences;
it goes off in the direction of north-north-west,
while the part of Loch-Long above it lias the
direction of north-north-east; it extends exactly on
a line, geographically, with the upper part of the
Gairloch ; and it has a length of about 5 miles, with
a breadth varying from 2 miles to J of a mile. On
its east side, filling all the peninsula between it and
Loeh-Long, are the wildly rugged eruptive moun-
tains called Argyle's Bowling-green. On its west,
shore, at a little distance from the opening into
Loch-Long, is Carrick-castle, an ancient seat of the
Campbells. It is situated on a high and nearly in-
sulated rock, advancing into the water. At the
head of Loch-Goil there is much wild and romantic
beaut\'; and the road thence to Loch-Fyne passes
through a deep rude valley called Hell's glen, which
has been compared by some travellers to Glencroe,
in point of wild gloomy majesty.
GOIL WATER, a streamlet, about 3 or 4 miles
in length, running southward to the head of Loch-
Goil in Cowal.
GOLDBERRY HEAD See Kilbride (West).
GOLDIELANDS, an ancient castellated tower
or peel-house, on an eminence on the right, bank of
the Teviot, 1 j mile above Hawick, Roxburghshire.
It is one of the most entire on the Border, — square,
massive, and of venerable aspect. It was anciently
the mansion of a family of the surname of Goldie,
whence it derived its present appellation. It is now
the property of the Duke of Buccleuch. Its last
inhabitant, a Scott, is said to have been hanged
over its gate for the maraudings and treasons of a
reiver's career.
GOLFDRUM. See Dunfermline.
GOLLACHIE BURN, a burn, about 4 miles in
length of course, running northward to the sea, be-
tween Buekie and Port-Gordon, in the western
part of the parish of Rathven, Banffshire. Near its
mouth is a chalybeate spring. There also was
formerly a distillery.
GOLSPIE, a parish, containing a post-office vil-
lage of its own name, also the village of Bachies, on
the east coast of Sutherlandshire. It is bounded by
the sea, by the Little Ferry, by the Fleet, and by
the parishes of Rogart and Clyne. The Little Ferry
and the Fleet separate it from Dornoch. See Fleet
(The). The length of the parish south-westward is
about 8 miles; and its greatest breadth is about 6
miles. " The hills near the coast are Ben a Bhra-
gidh, which is about 1,300 feet in height above the
level of the sea, the Silver rock and the hill of Mor-
rich, both much lower; and in the interior Ben Horn
1,712, and Ben Lundie 1,464 feet in height. In the
middle of the parish there is a valley called the glen
of Dunrobin. Through this eden inns a small stream
called Golspie burn, whose banks, for the space of
about a mile near the sea, present very beautiful
and picturesque scenery. The range of hills, con-
sisting of the Silver rock and the hill of Morrich,
and others in their vicinity, are rounded at the top,
with a southern, seaward aspect. The flat arable
part of the parish lies chiefly between the coast-side
hills and the sea, having the rude figure of a triangle,
one of whose sides is formed by the base of the hills,
another by the Little Ferry inlet, and the third by
the seashore, with a considerable sinuosity." There
arc four small lakes. About 2,050 acres are in til-
lage, and about 800 under wood. The only land-
owner is the Duke of Sutherland ; and a grand
feature of the parish is His Grace's princely resi-
dence of Dunrobin Castle: which see. There is a
salmon fishery in the Fleet. There are two quarries
of very good red sandstone, and one of white sand-
stone. The native rocks are very various, — both
primitive and secondary; and there are indications
of coal. The yearly value of raw produce was esti-
mated in 1833 at £10,030. The yearly value of real
property, as assessed in 1860, was £4,841. There
was a chapel built in Golspie in very early times,
and dedicated to St. Andrew. Near the ground
on which the chapel stood, amid the remains of
other carved monuments, is an obelisk, a drawing
of which is given by Cordiner. There are also in
the parish ruins of three Pictish towers, and remains
of a Druidical temple. The parish is traversed by
the great north road from Inverness lo Thurso.
Population in 1831, 1,149; in 1861, 1,615. Houses,
285.
This parish, formerly a vicarage, is in the presby-
tery of Dornoch, and synod of Sutherland and Caith-
ness. Patron, the Duke of Sutherland. Stipend,
£204 16s.; glebe, £6. Schoolmaster's salary, £70,
with about £26 fees. The parish church was
built in 1738, and enlarged in 1751, and con-
tains 565 sittings. There is a Free church, with
an attendance of from 450 to 500 ; and the sum
raised in connexion with it in 1865 was £212 3s.
There are a female school, a subscription library,
and a reading club. The ancient name of the par-
ish was Culmallie.
The Village of Goi.sriE stands on the great norfh
road, at the mouth of the Golspie bum, 54 miles
from Wick and 84A from Inverness. It consisted
for a long time of only a few mean fishermen's huts;
but within the last forty years it has become a place
of considerable local trade, and one of the neatest
villages in the north of Scotland. It contains a
large inn and posting establishment, an office of the
British Linen Company's bank, an office of the
Aberdeen Town and County bank, three insurance
agencies, the churches, schools, and libraries of the
parish, a meal mill, and a flour and barley mill.
Fairs are held in May and October. Public con-
veyances pass through on the great north road, and
run to Lairg and Scourie. Population in 1861,
878.
GOLYN. See Gllaxe.
GOMETRA, a basaltic island, m the parish of
Diva, incorporated with the parish of Kilninian, in
the Argyleshire Hebrides. It lies between Mull
and Staffa, so near the west end of Ulva as to be
separated thence by only a strait wdiich is dry ex-
cept at spring tides. It has an area of about 1,800
statute acres. A large proportion of it is under
cultivation, and has a good loamy soil, capable of
producing all the usual variety of crops. It has twe
harbours, respectively on the north and on the south,
and is an excellent fishing station. Population,
in 1861, 23.
GONOCHAN.
816
GORDON.
GONOCHAN, a hamlet and a burn, in the west-
em part of the parish of Fintry, Stirlingshire.
Population of the hamlet, 44. • Houses, 12. The
burn rises on the east side of Earl's Seat, and runs
3i miles north-eastward to the Endrick, at a point
a short distance above the village of Fintry.
GOODIE (The), a rivulet in the south of Perth-
shire. It issues from the south-eastern extremity of
the Loch of Monteith, in the parish of Port-of-Mon-
teith; and, after having intersected that parish over
a distance of 3§ miles eastward, flows, 4 miles south-
eastward, through a detached part of tlie parish of
Kincardine and the southern verge of the parish of
Kilmadock, to the Forth at the fords of Frew. It
anciently formed a marshy watery expanse, called
the Lake of Goodie ; and it was the scene of a serious
disaster to the Argyle-men in the military events of
1646.
GOODWIFE'S CAVE. See Stostkirk.
GORBALS, the great suburb of Glasgow situated
on the left side of the Clyde, bearing a similar re-
lation to that city to that which Southwark bears to
London. See Glasgow.
GORDON, a parish, containing a post-office sta-
tion of its own name, in the western part of the
Merse, Berwickshire. It is bounded by Westruther,
Greenlaw, Hume, Earlston, and Legerwood. Its
length westward is nearly 5 miles ; and its greatest
breadth is 4 miles. The surface is uneven; has
several rising- grounds, one of which is entitled to
be called a hill; and, in general, lies higher than
any district in the eastern part of the Merse. Till
a recent date it had great tracts of moss and moor-
land, and wore a bleak sterile aspect ; but it is now
very extensively cultivated, and considerably shel-
tered with plantation; and it begins to wear a smil-
ing and productive appearance. About two-thirds
of the whole area is arable ; about 500 acres are
under wood; and the remainder is in pasture, or
continues to be waste. Three head-streams of the
Eden rise on or near its boundaries on the north, on
the south-west, and on the south-east; in one case
intersecting it southward nearly through the centre,
and in the other cases forming its southern boundary-
line, and all making a confluence at or near the
point of leaving it. Two other rills rise respec-
tively at its western and its eastern limit, and, after
for a brief way tracing its boundary, flow the one
westward to join the Leader, and the other eastward
to join the Blackadder. The last stream — the Black-
adder — also touches it for a short way along the
north. The chief landowners are the lairds of
Jerviswood, Greenknow, Ladykirk, Stow, Rumble-
tonlaw, and Sliielfield. The yearly value of raw
produce was estimated in 1S34 at £15,345, As-
sessed property in 1865, £8,347 9s. lid. Population
in 1831, 882 ; in 1861, 931. Houses, 171.
Gordon parish is distinguished for giving title to
tlie ducal family of Gordon, and for having contained
their earliest seat and possessions in Scotland.
They are supposed to have settled within its limits
in the reign of Malcolm Canmore; and when they
removd to the north, they not only transferred
some of its local names to the territories or objects
of their new home, but afterwards recurred to it for
their ducal title. Huntly — which, through the
medium of the northern domain named after it, gave
them their titles successively of Lord, Earl, and
Marquis — was a village in the western extremity of
Gordon parish; and, though commemorated only by
a solitary tree which marks its site, survived till a
recent date in the form of a small hamlet. Two
farms within the parish are still called respectively
Huntly and Huntly-wood. A little north of the
village of West-Gordon is the reputed site of the
Gordon family's early residence, — a rising ground
still called the Castles, though now covered with
plantation, presenting vestiges of fortification. The
parish is intersected south-eastward by the road from
Edinburgh to Kelso, and is traversed south-west
ward by a road from Dunse to Earlston. On the
latter road stands the village of West- Gordon, 8
miles distant from Kelso. It is the site of the par-
ish-church, and has a population of about 300.
The parishioners of Gordon, till a recent period,
were very primitive in their manners, and careless,
through a descent of several generations, to make a
removal of residence, or go a sight-seeing in the
busier districts of the country ; and, probably on
account solely of their habits of seclusion and con-
tent, earned "from malicious wit the soubriquet of
" the Gowks o' Gordon."
This parish is in the presbytery of Lauder, and
synod of Merse and Teviotdale. Patron, the Crown.
Stipend, £163 16s. lid. ; glebe, £30. Schoolmaster's
salary, £50, with £32 fees, and £20 other emolu-
ments. The parish church was built in 1763, and
has been several times repaired; and it contains
about 450 sittings. There is a Free church, willi
an attendance of about 90; and the sum raised
in connexion with it in 1865 was £38 6s. Hd.
There is a parochial library. Gordon parish was
formerly of very large extent. But part of it, called
Durrington-laws, was annexed to Longformacus, 12
miles distant; and out of it, jointly with Bassen-
dean, a parish formerly in the presbytery of Mel-
rose, was also erected, about the year 1647, the
parish of Westruther. The church was originally
dedicated to St. Michael the archangel, and given to
the monks of Coldingham, In 1171, according to
the spiritual traffic of that age of priestcraft, the
Coldingham monks exchanged it with the monks of
Kelso for the chapel of Earlston and St. Laurence
church of Berwick. In the ancient parish were
several chapels. In 1309, Sir Adam Gordon, in
consideration of relaxing to them some temporal
claims, obtained from the monks of Kelso leave to
possess a private chapel with all its oblations. At
Huntly-wood was another chapel, dedicated to the
Virgin Mary, the advowson of which appears tc
have passed, during the reign of James IV., intc
the possession of the family of Home. A third
chapel, the ruins of which were at no remote period
traceable, was built during the reign of David, by
John de Spottiswoode, at his hamlet of Spotti.3-
woode.
END OF VOLUME FIRST.
rtn.LAUTON AND MAC.N'AG, PRINTERS, ED1NEIT.OS.
1
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