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.^INCIDENTS
IN
WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY:
CONTAININa
FACTS RELATING TO THE DISCOVERT AND SETTLEMENT OF THE
MOUNTAINS, INDIAN HISTORY AND TRADITIONS, A MINUTE
AND AUTHENTIC ACCOUNT OF THE DESTRUCTION OF
THE WILLEY FAMILY, GEOLOGY AND TEM-
PERATURE OF THE MOUNTAINS ;
TOGETHER WITH
pmermts ^mthtts lltostrating f ift in t\t Sitcfi Mt^Qh.
BY
REV. BENJAMIN G^ILLEY.
TO WHICH IS ADDED
AN ACCURATE OUIDE
FROM
NEW YORK AND BOSTON
TO
THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.
BOSTON:
PUBLISHED BY NATHANIEL NOYES,
No. 11 CORNHILL.
NEW YOEK: M. W. DODD, 59 CHAMBERS STREET.
CINCINNATI, OHIO: H. W. DERBY.
PORTLAND, ME.: FRANCIS BLAKE.
1850.
Entered acoordiug to Act of Congress, in the year 1855, by
BENJAMIN a. WILLEY,
In the Clcik's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachasetti.
stereotyped by
HOBART & ROBBINS.
New England Type and Stereotype FounJeif,
BOSTON.
PREFACE
Almost invariably the question is asked me, on an intrc>-
duction to a stranger,-" Are you a connection of the family
destroyed at the "White Mountains?" and, on learning that I
am. the question is almost certain to follow, "What were
the facts in regard to their destruction?"
The frequency of the inquiry, and the apparent interest
with which the narration of that fearful scene has been lis-
tened to, have led me to suppose that a particular account of
that terrible storm, and the destruction of my brother's fam-
ily, would be interesting to the public. Travellers have
long needed a Book of the Mountains; and so pressingly
have I been urged to undertake such a book, that the above
fact, the abundance of material, and the thought that I
might benefit myself, and supply an existing want, has
induced me to undertake the task. How I have succeeded
others will judge. It was not undertaken as a literary
effort, but a simple narration of facts. Are they intelligible ?
is my only inquiry. When I commenced, there was no book
on the White Mountains, save a small work by Mrs. Craw-
ls
VI PREFACE.
ford, widow of the late Ethan A. Crawford. That was out
of print, and had been so for years. When my manuscript
was nearly completed, a small book on the White Mountains
came out, by Mr. John H. Spaulding ; but it does not con-
flict with mine.
I am under great obligations to the Rev. Daniel Goodhue,
formerly of Gilead, Me., now of Andover, N. H., for the
large amount of matter which he furnished me concerning
the history of the eastern side of the mountains. Joel
Winch, Esq., of Bethlehem, has also my hearty thanks for
matter furnished by him. The kindness of the Hon. N. B.
Baker, of Concord; E. J. Lane, Esq., of Dover; B. B.
French, Esq., Washington, D. C. ; Gen. Samuel Fessenden,
of Portland; James Willey, Esq., of Conway; Rev. Samuel
Souther, of Fryburg, and others, who have assisted me with
books and material, is gratefully remembered. My son,
Mr. S. T. B. Willey, has also been of great assistance to me
in arranging and writing much of the book. B G W.
East Sumner, Me., Sept.^ 1855.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I.
THE MOUXTAINS.
The extent and location of the mountains. — Their height and the great distance
at which they are seen. — The Indian names. — The origin of these names. —
Dr. Belknap's description. — The early visitors. — Vines' and Gorge's visit. —
Josselyn's account of his visit. — The central group of mountains. — Heights
of dififerent summits. — Gate of the Notch. — Notch. — Mount Webster. —
Giant's Grave. — View from Giant's Grave. — The tops of the mountains. — The
• foliage on their sides. — The vegetation on the higher summits. — The shad-
ows of clouds. — Insects on the mountains. — Birds. — The dead trees. — The
mountains during a storm — as seen by moonlight — as seen in winter. — The
sides. — View from the summit of Mount Washington. — View at sunrise. —
Indian tradition, 13
CHAPTER II.
MOUNTAINS CONTlNtTED.
The many objects of interest. — The great gulf. — Oakes' gulf.^ Tuckerman's
ravine. — Snow cavern. — Source of the many springs on the mountains. —
Saco and Merrimac rivers. — Ellis and Peabody rivers. — Cascades. — Silver
cascades. — The flume. — The devil's den. — Crystal falls. — Glen Ellis falls. —
Ammonoosuc. — Falls of the Ammonoosuc. — Franconia mountains. — Mount
Lafayette. — Eagle cliff. — Cannon mount. — Old Man of the Mountains. —
Profile lake. — Optical illusions from Cannon mount. — Echo lake. — The
basin. — The flume. — The pool. — Narrow escape from a fall into the pool, 28
CHAPTER III.
THE INDIANS.
The Uncertainty of the many traditions. — The superstitions of the Indians. —
Pr»l»able cause of those superstitions. — Tradition of a flood.— Great treas-
ures of gold and gems. — Search for treasures. — The particular tribes inhab-
VIII CONTENTS.
iting the mountains. — Indian relics in Conway — In Ossipee — in Fryburg
— The Sokokis. — Their destruction by the pestilence. — Account of Vines
of his visit to them. — SqusCndo. — Death of his child. — Assacumbuit. — Visit
to France. — Destruction of Haverhill. — Polan. — Whittier's verses on his
burial. — Chocorua. — His curse. — Anasagunticooks. — Their chiefs. — Hon.
Enoch Lincoln's interest in Indians of this region. — Visit of Gov. Lincoln to
Natalluck. — Indian myth. — The little Indian infant. — Curious marriage
custom, 42
CHAPTER IV.
COoS COUNTY.
Coos as a farming county. — The opinion of Hon. Isaac Hill. — Dr. Dwight's
account of the climate. — The many and peculiar shapes of towns. — Kil-
kenny.— Pilot and Willard mountains. — Story of Willard and his dog. —
Randolph. — Extensive views from Randolph. — Ascent of Mount Jefferson. —
Great danger in a storm. — View from Jefferson. — Jefferson. — Beautiful sit-
uation of Jefferson. — Brothers Glines. — Colonel Whipple. — His yearly visit
to Portsmouth. — Story illustrating his care of his townsmen. — His capture
by the Indians, and escape. — Mr. Gotham. — The importance of the discov-
ery of the Notch. — Nash's discovery of the pass. — Gov. Wentworth. — Get-
ting a horse through the defile. — Sawyer. — "Sawyer's Rock." — Mountain
carriages. — Barrel of tobacco. — Barrel of rum. — Cutting the road through
the Notch. — Hart's location, 58
CHAPTER V.
EARLY SETTLERS.
Early settlement of the locations. — Capt. Rosebrook. — Monadnuc. — Mrs.
Rosebrook. — Scarcity of salt. — Great crops. — Removal from Monadnuc. -
Settlement at Guildhall. — Mrs. Rosebrook's adventure with the Indians. —
Removal to Nash and Sawyer's location. — Difiiculty of finding his house in
the drifts of snow. — Want of provisions. — His energy. — Cancer. — His
death. — Ethan Allen Crawford, the giant of the mountains — His early
youth. — Hardships. — The treacherous servant, . .75
CHAPTER VI.
ETHAN A. CRAWFORD.
Mr. Crawford's impressive manner of story -telling. — The burning of his build-
ings.— His energy in repairing his losses. — His labors as a guide on to the
mountains. — The diflBculty formerly of reaching the mountains. — Story illus-
trating diflSculty of travelling in those days. — Present modes of reaching
mountains. — First ascent of the mountains. — Party of students from Fry-
CONTENTS. IX
burg. — Ease of ascending now. — First bridle-path. — Ethan's severe wound.
— Granny Stalbard. — Carriage-road from Glen House. — Love of Hunting. — •
The gray, cat. — Adventures with them. — Lassos and captures one with birch
poles. — Wolves. — His annoyance and discomfiture by them. — Bear stories.
— Catching the cub. — Capture of a full-grown bear, 83
CHAPTER VII.
THE CRAWFORD FAMILY.
Mr. Crawford's early death. — A remarkable man. — The Crawford family. —
Abel Crawford. — Mrs. Crawford. — Her bravery during the night of the
slides. — "Crawford House." — Death of Mr. Strickland on the mountains. —
Danger of ascending mountains without guide. — Party of students lost on
mountains. — Nancy's brook. — Story of Nancy. — Superstitions connected
with the spot where she was found. — Owl story. — Beautiful auroral display
at the Notch, 95
CHAPTER VIII.
THE SLIDES.
The effect of the turnpike upon travel through the Notch. — Coos teamsters.—
Pleasure travel. — Want of public houses. — The first house built at the
Notch. — Moving of Mr. Willey to the Notch. — The first winter after his
removal. — The first slide in June. — The fears of Mr. Willey and his family.
— The great storm. — The great drought previous to the storm. — Theory of
slides. — The first signs of the storm. — The gathering of the clouds about the
mountains, as seen from Conway. — Night of the disaster. — Very peculiar
appearance of the mountains about midnight. — Rapid rise of the Saco in
Conway. — First discovery of slides. — First news from the Notch. — The shrill
voice in the darkness. — The confirmation of the first report. — The manner
of communicating the news. — The trumpet at midnight. — Setting out for
Notch. — Condition of the roads. — The appearance of the Saco valley. —
Arrival at the " Willey House." — Search for the bodies. — Finding of some
of the bodies. — Burial. — .-.he prayer at the grave. — Finding of other bodies.
— Oxen. — The first night spent in the house succeeding the storm, . . .110
CHAPTER IX.
THE SLIDES, COXTIXUED.
The family dog. — The first conjecture in regard to manner of destruction.—
Second conjecture. — Third conjecture.— The dream. — Why all were de-
troyed. — The mutilation of the bodies. — David Allen. — The great rise of
water. — Their terrible situation during the storm. — The effect of a storm
upon a family in the same house a year after. — The storm, .... 129
X CONTENTS.
CHAPTER X.
THE SLIDES, COXCLUDED.
The storm as witnessed by one at the mountains. — The view from Bethlehem,
— Rapid rise of the Ammonoosuc. — Condition of Capt. Rosebrook's farm. —
Slides as first seen. — Falls of the Ammonoosuc. — Difficulty of reaching
.Crawford's. — Attempt to ascend the mountains. — The camp. — Great destruc-
tion of trees, 141
CHAPTER XI.
BARTLETT.
General features. — Rocky branch. — Incident on its bank. — Incident of Ellis'
riyer. — First settlement. — Loss of the horses. — Snow caverns. — Brothers
Emery. — Humphrey's obstinacy. — Their perilous escape from freezing. —
Hon. John Pendexter. — His removal from Portsmouth. — Children. — " Rais-
ing" scene. — Mrs. Pendexter. — The great distance of a market. — Difficulty
of reaching market. — Traps for catching wild animals. — The common log
trap. — Figure four. — Pequawket mountain. — Adventure with a rattlesnake.
— The "Chapel of the Hills."— Mrs. Snow.— Its dedication, 147
CHAPTER XII.
JACKSOX.
The valleys of the mountains. — The directions in which they run. — Moose
pond. — Moose bathing. — Moose. — The Conway hunter. — The leap of a
moose over a horse and sleigh. — Eagle ledge. — Mineral resources. — General
features of Jackson. — Benjamin Copp. — His endurance. — Mr. Pinkham's
account of his first entrance into Jackson — The hog. — The house. — Scarcity
of salt. — Incident of Capt. Vere Royce. — Tornado. — Expedient to save chil-
dren.— Bear story. — Freewill Baptist society. — Elder Daniel Elkins, .163
CHAPTER XIII.
COXWAY.
Beautiful scenery of Conway. — Autumnal foliage. — Attractions of Conway to
hunters and early settlers. — Elijah Dinsmore. — Expedient to keep from starv-
ing.— Story of Emery. — Great freshet. — Maple sugar. — Mr. Willey's en-
counter with a bear. — Stephen Allard's bear story. — Schools. — Boys and the
hogs. — Congregational church. — Dr. Porter. — Baptist church. — Chataque.
— North Conway. — Ledges. — Family burying-place. — Names of the i'amily
destroyed at the Notch, 174
CONTENTS. XI
CHAPTER XIV.
FRYBURG.
The imporldnco of Fryburg in early times. — The grant of town to Gen. Frye.
— tJor.iitxoirt. ot the grant. — First settlers. — Their hardships. — Oliver
Peabody. — IniiAns. — Sabatis. — Encounter with a catamount. — Love of the
water. — Indians' lOfe for Mr. Fessenden. — Old Phillip. — Fryburg expedi-
tion to Shelburne. - Fryburg academy. — Buildings. — Preceptors. — Paul
Langdon. — Daniel \f ebster. — Amos I. Cook. — Rev. William Fessenden. —
Marion Lyle Hurd, 189
CHAPTER XV.
LOVE well's fight.
View from Pequawket Stonntain. — Lovewell's pond. — Sufferings of the early
settlers in Dunstable. -Expedition to Winnipiseogee lake. — Expedition of
Lovewell to Pequawket. — His company. — Encampment on the shore of the
pond. — Situation of the ludian village. — " Carrying place." — Discovery of
the first Indian. — Kill the Indian. — The battle. — Retreat of Lovewell's
men. — Chamberlain and Paugus. — Council at night. — Retreat. — Ensign
"Wyman and companions. — Mr. Frye. — Jones. — Farwell and Davis. — Traces
of the battle.— The old ballad, 204
CHAPTER XVI.
GILEAD.
Situation of Gilead. — Soil. — Wild river. — Early settlers. — Ministers. — First
church. — Slide. — Bears. — Encounter of one Bean. — York's warm reception
by a bear. — Oliver Peabody's loose ox. — Famine among bears. — Bear and
hog story. — Horrible tragedy, 222
CHAPTER XVII.
segar's narrative.
Attack on Bethel. — Segar. — Indians. — Capture of Segar and companions. —
Mrs. Clark.— The journey to Canada.— Pettengill's h^se.— Hope Austin. —
Capt. Rindge. — Murder of Poor. — Clark's escape. — Encampments at night.
— Umbagog lake. — Sufferings from hunger. — Arrival at St. Francis' river.
— Indian dance. — British protection. — Return home, 234
CHAPTER XVIII.
SHELBURNE.
Situation of Shelburne.— Mountains. — Evening drive among the mountains.—
Mount Moriah.— Moses' rock. — Granny Starbird's ledge.— Why so called.
XII CONTENTS.
— Mineral wealth of this town. — Early settlers. — Mr. Daniel Ingalls.—
Moses Ingalls. — Killing the devil. — Eobert Fletcher Ingalls. — Sufferings
of the early settlers. — Indian massacre. — Terrible encounter with wolves. —
The famished soldier, «•. 244
CHAPTER XIX.
GORHAM.
White Mountain Indians. — Col. Clark. — Molly Ockett. — Peol Susup. — Indian
eloquence. — Gorham. — Influence of the railroad upon it. — Alpine House. -
Glen House. — Mount Washington road. — Carriages. — BuHding of the " Sum-
mit House." — Weather on the summit in May. — Origin of Peabody river. —
Wonderful endurance of cold, 258
CHAPTER XX.
ALBANY, FRANCONIA, AND BETHLEHEM.
Drake's version of Chocorua's curse. — Popular legend connected with this
curse. — Cause of the disease among cattle in Albany. — Piemedy for the dis.
ease. — Beavers. — Military incident. — Franconia. — Iron mine. — Extent of
the mine. — Knight's moose story. — Village of Bethlehem. — View of the
mountains from Bethlehem. — Early settlement. — First road to the White
Mountains from Bethlehem. — Expedient to keep from freezing. — First town-
meeting. — Building bridge over Ammonoosuc. — Scarcity of provisions.—
Extremity to which inhabitants were driven. — Bethlehem of the present
day,
271
CHAPTER XXI.
GEOLOGr.
Indian theory of creation of world. — Indian idea of the creation of the White
Mountains. — Dr. Jackson's theory. — Sir Charles LyelFs theory, .... 283
CHAPTER XXII.
Temperature of the mountains.
Thermometrical table.— Synopsis of the weather.— Comparison of weather
with Long Island weather. — Earthquakes. — Thunder-storms. — Wind. —
Cold and frost.— Clearness of the atmosphere.— Length of days.— Springs.
Combustion 291
CHAPTER XXIII.
Conclusion, . . 300
CHAPTER I.
THE MOUNTAINS.
THE EXTENT AND LOCATION OP THE MOUNTAINS. — THEIR HEIGHT AND THB
GREAT DISTANCE AT WHICH THEY ARE SEEN. THE INDIAN NAMES.
THE ORIGIN OF THESE NAMES. DR. BELKNAP'S DESCRIPTION. THE
EARLY VISITORS. VINES' AND GORGE'S VISIT. — JOSSELYN's ACCOUNT
OF HIS VISIT. THE CENTRAL GROUP OF MOUNTAINS. — HEIGHTS OP
DIFFERENT SUMMITS. GATE OF THE NOTCH. NOTCH. MOUNT WEB-
STER. giant's GRAVE. VIEW FROM GIANT'S GRAVE. THE TOPS OF
THE MOUNTAINS. — THE FOLIAGE ON THEIR SIDES. — THE VEGETATION ON
THE HIGHER SUMMITS, THE SHADOWS OP CLOUDS. INSECTS ON THE
MOUNTAINS. BIRDS. — THE DEAD TREES. THE MOUNTAINS DURING A
STORM AS SEEN BY MOONLIGHT AS SEEN IN WINTER. THE SLIDES.
VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON. — VIEW AT SUN-
RISE.— INDIAN TRADITION.
*' Mount Washington, I have come a long distance, have toiled hard to
arrive at your summit, and now you seem to give me a cold reception."
Daniel Webster,
The White Mountains embrace the whole group of moun-
tains in northern New Hampshire, extending fortj miles
from north to south, and about the same distance from east
to west. The term has sometimes been applied exclusively
to the central cluster, including the six or seven highest
peaks, and verj properly, though in its comprehensive sense
2
14 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
we think it should embrace the extended group. Mount
Blanc and Mount Jura constitute not the whole of the Alps ;
neither do Washington and Monroe, the White Mountains.
Clustering around their central height, like children of one
large family, no merely arbitrary division should ever sepa-
rate them.
These mountains are the highest land east of the Missis-
sippi river, "and, in clear weather, are descried before any
other land by vessels approaching our eastern coast ; but, by
reason of their white appearance, are frequently mistaken for
clouds. They are visible on the land at the distance of
eighty miles, on the south and south-east sides. They
appear higher when viewed from the north-east, and it is
said they are seen from the neighborhood of Chamblee and
Quebec."
The Indian name of these mountains, according to Belknap,
is Agiocochook. President Alden states that they were
known to some of the more eastern tribes of Indians by the
name Waumbekketmethna ; Waumbekket, signifying white,
and methna, mountains. And still other tribes gave them
the appellation Kan Ran Vugarty, the continued likeness
of a Gull. All these names, we see, have the same general
meaning, and refer to the white appearance of the moun-
tains.
" During the period of nine or ten months the mountains
exhibit more or less of that bright appearance, from which
they are denominated white. In the spring, when the snow
is partly dissolved, they appear of a pale blue, streaked with
white ; and after it is wholly gone, at the distance of sixty
miles, they are altogether of the same pale blue, nearly ap-
proaching a sky color ; while, at the same time, viewed at the
distance of eight miles or less, they appBar of the proper
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 15
color of the rock. Light fleecy clouds, floating about their
Bummits, give them the same whitish hue as snow.
" These vast and irregular heights, being copiously replen-
ished with water, exhibit a great variety of beautiful cas-
'cades ; some of which fall in a perpendicular sheet or spout ;
others are winding and sloping ; others spread, and form a
basui in the rock, and then gush in a cataract over its edge.
A poetic fancy may find full gratification amidst these wild
and rugged scenes, if its ardor be not checked by the fatigue
of the approach. Almost everything in nature, which can
be supposed capable of inspiring ideas of the sublime and
beautiful, is here realized. Old mountains, stupendous
elevations, rolling clouds, impending rocks, verdant woods,
crystal streams, the gentle rill, and the roaring torrent, all
conspire to amaze, to soothe, and to em-apture."
These mountains were first visited in 1632, by one Darby
Field, whose glowing account of the riches he had discovered
on his return, caused others immediately to make the same
exploration. The visit of a Mr. Vines and Gorges is thus
described by Winthrop: '^The report brought by Darby
Field, of shining stones, &c., caused divers others to travel
thither; but they found nothing worth their pains. Mr.
Gorges and Mr. Vines, two of the magistrates of Sir F.
Gorges' province, went thither about the end of this month
(August). They set out, probably, a few days after the
return of Field, dazzled by visions of diamonds and other
precious minerals, with which the fancy of this man had
garnished his story.
"They went up Saco river in birch canoes, and that way
they found it ninety miles to Pegwagget, an Indian town ;
but by land it is but sixty. Upon Saco river they found
many thousand acres of rich meadow ; but there are ten fallg
16 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
which hinder boats, &c. From the Indian town they went
up hill (for the most part), about thirty miles, in woody
lands. Then they went about seven or eight miles upon
shattered rocks, without tree or grass, very steep all the way.
At the top is a plain, about three or four miles over, all shat-
tered stones ; and upon that is another rock or spire, about a
mile in height, and about an acre of ground at the top. At
the top of the plain arise four great rivers ; each of them so
much water at the first issue as would drive a mill : Connect-
icut river from two heads at the N. W., and S. W., which
join in one about sixty miles off; Saco river on the S. E. ;
Amascoggin, which runs into Casco bay, at the N. E. ; and
the Kennebec at the N. by E. The mountains run east
and west, thirty or forty miles ; but the peak is above all the
rest. They went and returned in fifteen days."
Josselyn, who visited them still later, has thus curiously
described them : ^' Four score miles (upon a direct line), to
the N. W. of Scarborow, a ridge of mountains runs N. W.
and N. E., an hundred leagues, known by the name of the
White Mountains, upon which lieth snow all the year, and is
a landmark twenty miles off at sea. It is a rising ground
from the sea-shore to these hills ; and they are inaccessible,
but by the gullies which the dissolved snow hath made. In
these gullies grow saven bushes, which, being taken hold of,
are a good help to the climbing discoverer. Upon the top of
the highest of these mountains is a large level, or plain, of
a day's journey over, whereon nothing grows but moss. At
the further end of this plain is another hill, called the sugar-
loaf — to outward appearance a rude heap of mossie stones,
piled one upon another — and you may, as you ascend, step
from one stone to another, as if you were going up a pair of
Btairs, but winding still about the hill, till you come to the
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 17
top, which will require half a day's time ; and jet it is not
above a mile, where there is also a level of about an acre of
ground, with a pond of clear water in the midst of it, which
you may hear run down ; but how it ascends is a mystery.
From this rocky hill you may see the whole country round
about. It is far above the lower clouds ; and from hence we
behold a vapor (hke a great pillar), drawn up by the sun-
beams Out of a great lake, or pond, into the air, where it was
formed into a cloud. The country beyond these hills, north-
ward, is daunting terrible ; being full of i rocky hills, as thick
as mole-hills in a meadow, and clothed with infinite thick
woods."
The mountains which have more particularly attracted the
attention of the tourists and writers, are near the northern
boundary of the group, extending from the "Notch," a dis-
tance of fourteen miles in a north-easterly direction. The
different peaks of this cluster gradually increase in height
from the outside to the centre, where, towers Mount Wash-
incrton hiorh above all. The lower and surroundincr moun-
tains are beautifully wooded to their very tops; while the
bold Alpine summits of the central ones rise up far above
the limits of vegetation, amid the clouds.
The heights of the difierent summits, as given by Professor
Bond, of Cambridge, are, perhaps, the most accurate. Com-
mencing at the "Notch," and giving the heights of each
peak as it stands in the range, — Mount Webster is 4,000
feet above the level of the sea; Jackson, 4,100; Clinton,
4,200; Pleasant, 4,800; Franklin, 4,900; Monroe, 5,300;
Washington, 6,500; Clay, 5,400 ; Adams, 5,700; Jefferson,
5,800 ; Madison, 5,400.
Approaching the central cluster from the south-east, the
mountauis gradually close upon you, until they come to-
2*
18 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
gether at the gate of the "Notch." This gate, or chasm,
is formed b j two rocks standing perpendicular at the distance
of twentj-two feet from each other. Here, bj great labor, a
road has been constructed on the side of a little brook, whose
rugged bed was formerly the only opening in the mountains.
The entrance on each side is guarded by high overhanging
cliffs, and the walls adjoining the road rise up perpendicularly
fifty feet. This defile was known to the Indians, who
formerly led their captives through it to Canada ; but it had
been forgotten or neglected, till the year 1771, when two
hunters (Nash and Sawyer) discovered and passed through
it.
The Notch itself is a narrow pass, about three miles in
length, running in a north-westerly direction, turning to the
right a little at the northern extremity. The mountains here
are abruptly torn apart, forming a very narrow valley, through
which flows the Saco. " The sublime and awful grandeur
of the Notch bafiies all description. Geometry may settle the
heights of the mountains, and numerical figures may record
the measure ; but no words can tell the emotions of the soul,
as it looks upward and views the almost perpendicular preci-
pices which line the narrow space between them ; while the
senses ache with terror and astonishment, as one sees himself
hedged in from all the world beside. He may cast his eye
forward or backward, or to either side — he can see only
upward, and then the diminutive circle of his vision is cribbed
and confined by the battlements of nature's cloud-capt
towers, which seem as if they wanted only the breathing of a
zephyr, or the v/afting of a straw against them, to displace
them, and crush the prisoner in their fall."
Facing the north, on either hand, rise up steep perpen-
dicular walls, two thousand feet above the road at their base.
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 19
regular and equal, for a great part of the way. On the left
is Mount Willej, gloomy and grand ; its sides torn and fur-
rowed by the slides, and here and there abrupt ledges, over
whose topmost edge the gathering mass of rocks and earth
leaped into the depths below.
On the right is Mount Webster. " This vast and regular
mass rises abruptly, from the plain below, to the height of
about two thousand feet. Its shape is that of a high fort,
with deep scarred sides ; its immense front apparently wholly
inaccessible. Its top, nearly horizontal and rough with pre-
cipitous crags, juts over with heavy and frowning brows;
so mighty a mountain wall, so high, so wide, so vast, and so
near the spectator, that all its gigantic proportions and parts
are seen with the utmost distinctness. It fills at once the
eye and the mind with awe, admiration, and delight. In a
bright day, when its outline at the top is seen sharp and dis-
tinct against the blue sky, its gray granite cliffs and ledges
colored with iron-brown or stained with darker shades, its
sides seamed with long gullied slides of brown gravel, its wide
beds of great loose rocks, black with lichens, contrasted with
the summer greens, or varied autumnal colors of the trees,
make it as beautiful and interesting in its varied hues and
parts, as it is great and sublime in its total impression."
Passing through the gate of the Notch, we come to the
valley of the Ammonoosuc; and after a distance of four
miles, generally through a thick wood, which prevents all
views of the surrounding mountains, we come out suddenly
into a wide cleared opening, where the whole mountain
cluster bursts upon our view. Standing upon an isolated
eminence, about sixty feet in height, known as- the Giant's
grave, the whole range of mountains is in sight.
20 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
You stand in the centre of a broad amphitheatre of moun-
tains; the lofty pyramid of Washington, with its basin-
shaped top, resembling the crater of a volcano, and its bare
gray rock sides marked by long gullies, and lower down by
broad slides, directly before you, while, far away on the right
and left, Mounts Webster and Madison stand at the extrem-
ities of the range.
The tops of the mountains are covered with snow from the
last of October to the end of May. Occasionally, during the
months of July and August, they are almost white with a
new-fallen snow or sleet. As the snow melts away, on most
of the rocks may be seen mosses and lichens of various
hues ; while here and there, in the spaces sheltered by high
rocks, beautiful and brilliant flowers, tiny alpine plants,
spring up, mixed with the coarse mountain grass.
''The base and sides of the mountains are clothed with a
dense and luxurious forest of the trees of the country ; and
the ground beneath their shade is ornamented with the beau-
tiful flowers of the northern woods, and deeply covered with
a rich carpet of mosses. Below is the sugar-maple, with its
broad angular leaves, changing early in autumn, when every
leaf is a flower, scarlet or crimson, or variegated with green,
yellow, and brown ; the yellow birch, of great size, with its
ragged bark, and wide-spreading arms; the beech, with its
round trunk, its smooth bark, marbled, clouded, and em-
broidered with many-colored lichens ; its stiff slender
branches, and its glossy leaves; the white birch, with its
smooth and white bark — most abundant in the districts for-
merly burnt — showing, after its changed yellow leaves have
fallen, its slender, wand-like white trunks ranged closely and
regularly on the hill sides. With these are mixed a frequent,
but generally less abundant growth of black spruces and
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 21
balsam firs, — the tall spruce, with its stiflf and ragged out-
line, and horizontal branches, the fir, with its beautiful
spires, regularly tapering from its base to its tip, and its
dark rich foliage, often, as it grows old, hoary with the long,
hanging, entangled tufts of the beard-moss, which here so
abundantly covers its dying branches. Of the many other
trees, smaller or less frequent, we will only mention the
striped maple, the mountain ash, the aspen poplars, the hem-
lock, and the white pine. Higher up, the spruce and fir be-
come the prevailing growth, with the yellow and white birch,
gradually growing smaller as they ascend, until the dwarf
firs, closely interwoven together, and only a few feet high,
form a dense and almost impenetrable hedge, many rods wide,
above which project, in fantastic forms, like the horns of a
deer, the bare, bleached tops and branches of the dead trees.
The dwarf trees are so closely crowded and interwoven to-
gether that it is as easy to walk on their tops as to struggle
through them on the ground ; and the road is made by re-
moving them with their roots. Above this hedge of dwarf
trees, which is about four thousand feet above the level of the
sea, the scattered fir and spruce bushes, shrinking from the
cold mountain wind, and clinging to the ground in sheltered
hollows by the side of the rocks, with a few similar bushes of
white and yellow birch, reach almost a thousand feet higher.
Above are only alpine plants, mosses, and lichens."'
Over the mountains are scattered a variety of berries,
such as cranberries, whortleberries, and several other kinds.
They grow high up the mountains, and some of them far
above any other vegetable, except grass and moss. Their
flower is, however, very different from those of the plain.
Even the whortleberry, which grows on these hills, has, in
its ripest state, considerable acidity.
22 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
The vicissitudes of sunshine and shade are here very fre-
quent, not exactly like the shadows flying over the plains ;
for here the individual is actually enveloped in the cloud,
while there it only passes over him. The cloud is discovered
at a considerable distance, rolling along on the surface of
the mountain ; it approaches you rapidly ; in an instant it
encircles you, and as soon passes away, to be followed by
others in endless succession. These phenomena are pre-
sented only when the clouds are light and scattered. When
they are surcharged with rain, even at mid-day, all is darkness
and gloom.
Although the waters of these hills apparently give life to
no animal or insect, yet, in the heat of summer, the black
fly, a little, tormenting insect, is very troublesome. At
the same time, the grasshopper is here as gay as on the
finely-cultivated field. The swallow, too, appears to hold his
flight as high over these mountains as over the plain. It is,
however, a place of extreme solitude. The eye often wan-
ders in vain to catch something that has life and animation ;
yet a bear has been known to rise up, even in this solitude,
to excite and to terrify the traveller.
Says a correspondent of the New York Express, writing
from the top of Mount Washington : ''I have seen but few
birds here, and they do not tarry long after getting here ;
the ground-sparrow and plover are the only species I have
noticed. Insects are quite plenty, and of various kinds.
The honey-bee and humble-bee occasionally find the way up
here, but are not plenty. There are scarcely any of the com-
mon house-fly here, but a large blue fly, and another of a bright
gold color, are exceedingly plenty in warm days, but the
first fog that arises scatters them, and they are not seen
again for several days."
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 23
The dead trees, slightly referred to by Oakes, are deserv-
ing of more notice. From different persons these trees have
received different names. Some call them buck's horns, and
others bleached bones. The winds and weather have ren-
dered them perfectly white ; and, as neither the stem nor
branches take any definite direction, they are of all the diver-
sified forms which nature, in her freaks, can create. The
cold seasons, which prevailed from 1812 to the end of 1816,
probably occasioned the death of these trees ; and their con-
stant exposure to the fierce winds which prevail on the moun-
tains has, aided by other causes, rendered them white. It
can hardly be doubted that, during the whole of the year
1816, these trees continued frozen ; and frost, like fire, is
capable of extinguishing life, even in the vegetable kingdom.
Fire could not have caused the death of these trees ; for fii-e
will not spread here, in consequence of the humidity of the
whole region at this elevation.
The mountains, seen, with their well-defined outlines and
shapes, in a clear day, present not the only aspect in which to
behold them. Clouds sailing up their long ranges, now float-
ing along their sides, severing their summits from their base,
now settling down and capping their peaks, now di'ooping
down still lower, till rock, and moss, and flower, and luxu-
riantly wooded base, are all hid in the dun, thick pall ; then,
bursting and fleeing with a wind-like speed, as the storm
clears up, and the mountains come out, .their wet sides glis-
tening, in the returning rays of the sun, like huge piles of
burnished silver, give to the rugged heights an aspect of
beauty unsurpassed. The mountains are seldom seen free
from clouds. Light, fleecy vapors are almost continually
hovering about the different peaks.
By moonlight, in those clear, autumnal evenings, when the
24 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
full, round moon looks so calmly down, throwing the shad-
ows of the mighty giants broadly over the valleys, peopling
each hidden nook and lurking ravine with grotesque forms
and superstitious fancies, gazing on those majestic heights,
one almost involuntarily repeats the matchless lines of Col-
eridge : —
* • Thou, most awful form,
Risest from forth thy silent sea of pines,
How silently ! Around thee and above
Deep is the air, and dark, substantial black.
An ebon mass ; methinks thou piercest it
As with a wedge ! But when I look again.
It is their own calm home, thy crystal shrine.
Thy habitation from eternity !
0, dread and silent mount ! I gaze upon thee.
Till thou, still present to the bodily sense,
Didst vanish from my thought ; entranced in prayer
I worshipped the invisible alone."
Nor in winter are they destitute of beauty. Their white
summits standing out so distinctly from the deep blue depth
of sky in the background, the trees around their sides and
base loaded with ice, glistening in the dazzling rays of the
sun like the enchanted diamond and jewelled halls of Eastern
story, the reflecting and glittering of the moonbeams upon
the frozen crust, all give to them a bewildering splendor in-
describable.
The slides now seen at the White Mountains are mostly
those which took place in the year 1826. At the Notch they
present the appearance of deep gullies a few rods wide. On
Mount Washington and the higher peaks many of the slides
are a quarter or a half a mile in width. The amount of mat-
ter torn in that one night of dreadful storm from the moun-
tains, and hurled into the valleys below, is incalculable.
Thousands of acres of rocks, and earth, and trees, slipped from
INCIDENTB IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 25
their fastening, and were thrown into the valleys. As seen
from a dintanco of twenty or thirty rniles, they look like long
roadn, winding up the mountains in all directions.
From the summit of Mount Washington the eye com-
mandn tlio circumference of tlie entire group of mountains.
You stand in tlie centre, lookirjg down upon a multitudinous
sea of ridges and jxjaks, here exU;nding out in long ranges,
enclosing hrojul valleys, through which wind rivers, glitter-
ing amid the forest and B^;ttlement like polished metal, now
towering up like insulatcfl cones, now grouped together like
loving friends.
'• In the west, through the blue haze, are seen in the dis-
tance tlie ranges of the Green Mountains ; the remarkable
outlines of the summits of Camel's Hump and Mansfield
Mountain boizjg ea«iily distinguished when the atmosphere is
clear. To tne nomi-wost, under your feet, are the clearings
and s^;ttlemerit of Jefferson, arid the waters of Cherry Pond ;
and, further distant, the village of Lancaster, with the
waters of Israel's river. The Connecticut is barely visible,
and often its appearance for miles is counterfeited by the
fog rising from its surface. To the north and north-east,
only a few miles distant, rise up IxddJy the great north-east-
em peaks of the White Mountain range, — .Jefferson, Ad-
ams, and Mjwlison, — with their ragged t^>ps of loose, dark
rwks. A little further to the east are seen the numerous
and distant summits of the mountains of Maine. On the
south-east, close at hand, are the (birk and crowded riflges of
the mountains of Jiu^kmn ; and, beyond the c<^nical summit
of Kearsarge, standing by itself, on the outskirts of the
mountains, and, further over the low country of Maine. Sc-
bago Pond, near Portland. Still further, it is saif], the ocean
itself has sometimes been distinctly visible.
3
26 INCIDENTS IN WniTE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
" The White Mountains are often seen from the sea, even at
thirty miles distance from the shore ; and nothing can pre-
vent the sea from being seen from the mountains, but the
difficulty of distinguishing its appearance from that of the
sky near the horizon.
' ' Further to the south are the intervales of the Saco, and
the settlements of Bartlett and Conway, the sister ponds of
Lovell in Fryeburg, and, still further, the remarkable four-
toothed summit of the Chocorua, the peak to the right being
much the largest, and sharj^ly pyramidical. Almost exactly
south are the shining waters of the beautiful Winnipisogee,
seen with the greatest distinctness in a favorable day. To
the south-west, near at hand, are the peaks of the south-
western range of the White Mountains ; Monroe, with its
two little alpine ponds sleeping under its rocky and pointed
summit ; the flat surface of Franklin, and the rounded top of
Pleasant, with their ridges and spurs. Beyond these, the
Willey Mountain, with its high, ridged summit ; and, beyond
that, several parallel ranges of high wooded mountains. Fur-
ther west, and over all, is seen the high, bare summit of
Mount Lafayette in Franconia."
The appearance of the mountains and the surrounding
country at sunrise is worth the journey and toil from any
part of the country to witness. In the language of the elo-
quent Brydone, ''The whole eastern horizon is gradually
lighted up. The sun's first golden ray, as he emerges from
the ocean, strikes the eye, and sheds a glimmering but un-
certain light ; but soon his broad disc diffuses light and
beauty, first on the hills, and soon on the region eastward.
The sides of the mountains fronting him appear like a solid
mass of gold dazzling by its brightness. While this process
is going on to the eastward, the whole country to the west-
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN niSTORY. 27
•ward is shrouded with, darkness and gloom. The eye turns
away from this comfortless scene, to the gay and varied one
to the eastward. If this prospect is beheld immediately after
a rain, the tops of a thousand hills rise above the fogs, ap-
pearing like so many islands in the midst of a mighty ocean.
As these mists clear away, the houses, the villages, and the
verdant fields within the circle of vision, arise to view. At
the moment of the sun's rising, the noble vale of the Con-
necticut, which stretches along from the north till it is lost
among the hills at the south-west, appears like an inland sea.
This is occasioned by the vapors which had ascended from
the river during the night. As the sun advances in his
course, these vapors are chased away by his rays, and the
farms in Jefierson, Eethlehem, and Lancaster, with its village,
appear as if rising by magic from what but a little time
before seemed nothing but water. The various 'hills, in the
mean time, which surround the mountains, appear to be
arranged in many concentric circles : and the circle the fur-
thest removed seems the highest and most distinct, giving
to the whole an air of order and grandeur beyond the power
of description."
From this lofty summit the Indians had a tradition that
Passaconaway, a powerful chief, famed to hold a conference
with the spirits above, once passed to a council in heaven.
" A wondrous wight ! For o'er 'Siogee's ice,
With brindled wolves, all harnessed three and three,
High seated on a sledge, made in a trice.
On Mount Ogiocochook, of hickory,
He lashed and reeled, and sung right jollily ;
And once upon a car of flaming fire.
The dreadful Indian shook with fear to see
The king of Penacook, his chief, his sire.
Ride flaming up towards heaven, than any mountain higher,"
CHAPTER II.
MOUNTAINS CONTINUED.
THE MANY OBJECTS OF INTEREST. — THE GREAT GULF. — OAKES' GULF.. —
TUCKERMAN'S RAVINE. — SNOW CAVERN. — SOURCE OF THE MANY SPRINGS
ON THE MOUNTAINS. — SACO AND,MERRIMAC RIVERS. — ELLIS AND PEA-
BODY RIVERS. — CASCADES. SILVER CASCADE. — THE FLUME. — THE
devil's DEN. — CRYSTAL FALLS. — GLEN ELLIS FALLS. AMMONOOSUC.
— FALLS OF THE AMIMONOOSUC. — FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. — MOUNT LA-
FAYETTE. EAGLE CLTFF. — ■ CANNON MOUNT. OLD MAN OF THE MOUN-
TAINS. — PROFILE LAKE. — OPTICAL ILLUSION FROM CANNON MOUNT. —
ECHO LAKE. — THE BASIN. — THE FLUME. — THE POOL. — NARROW ES-
CAPE FROM A FALL INTO THE POOL.
" Ye crags and peaks, I 'm with you once again."
It would be vain to attempt a description of all the curious
localities of interest connected with these mountains. Wan-
der over them ever so much, and fresh wonders and beauties
are continually being discovered. Erom no two points does the
collected mountain-group present the same appearance to the
beholder; while each separate mount will well repay the
toil and labor of climbing its rugged sides.
Some of the most striking and peculiar scenery among the
mountains are the deep ravines and hollows immediately
surrounding Mount Washington. Leaving the old Fabyan
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN" HISTORY. 29
road, the first path cut out by Ethan A. Crawford, from the
old Rosebrook-place, not far from the summit of Mount
Washington, and going a few rods northward, you come to
the brink of an almost unfathomable abyss, known as the
Great Gulf. It is a rocky, precipitous descent of two thou-
sand feet. Rising up opposite you from the bottom of this
Gulf, almost perpendicularly, is the great range of mountains,
comprismg Clay, Jefferson, Adams and Madison. This vast
range may be seen from their roots to theu' summits by one
standing on the brink. Deep down in the very bottom of the
hollow are rough, confused piles of rocks, with narrow and
deeply-worn ravines between them. Springing up occasion-
ally, near the very base of the mountain range, are tall spruces,
while further up on their sides are birches and small fir-
bushes. Toward the east, the Gulf has an opening, sur-
rounded on all its other sides by mountains.
Winding round the double-headed summit of Mount
Monroe, far down on the right, is another seemingly bottom-
less abyss, known as Oakes' Gulf It presents nearly the
same general characteristics as the last — huge, rough boulders
covering the lowest depths, while trees and bushes cover the
steep and craggy sides, wherever the crevices contain soil
enough to support vegetation. At times the wind drives the
thick mist into these gulfs, filling them, like a " huge caldron,
with dark-blue vapor, wdiirling and eddying round their
sides."
Tuckerman's Ravine, on the eastern side of the mountains,
for wildness and grandeur is unsurpassed. Ascending the
mountains by the Davis road, from the Mount Crawford
House, it lies to the right of the road, as it passes over the
high spur immediately south-east of Mount Washington.
Leaving the path, after arriving at the top of the spur, and
3*
30 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY,
turning to the right, you stand upon the edge of the ravine.
Descending its rough, steep sides a great distance, you reach
the bottom. It is a long, deep, narrow hollow ; its craggy
walls in many places almost perpendicular, and wholly inac-
cessible. A small stream runs through its whole length,
forming beautiful cascades after a storm. In this valley, but
above the ravine, is the great plain from which the ascent to
the top of Mount Washington was formerly made. Early
explorers always ascended from the eastern side of the
mountains.
In winter all the snow which blows from Mount Wash-
ington lodges in this ravine, filling it to the depth of
hundreds of feet.
"Huge recess,
That keeps till June December's snows."
As the warm weather approaches, the little brook thaws
out upon the sides of the mountain, and gradually works
its way through the vast mass covering its bed, forming a
complete arch of pure snow. This arch continues to enlarge
until the last of summer, when the intense heat and warm
rains melt it away.
Last year the engineer of the White Mountain Carriage
Road, measured the arch, and found it to be 180 feet long,
84 feet wide, and 40 feet high, on' the inside; and 266 feet
long, and 40 feet wide, on the outside. The snow forming
the arch was twenty feet thick. The engineer went through this
arch in the bed of the brook, to the foot of the cataract,
which falls a thousand feet down the side of the mountain.
This was done in July.
Nor for beauty and grandeur were those bold summits
reared so far up among the clouds. New England owes to
INCIDENIS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN niSTORY, 31
her granite peaks more than to her extensive commerce and
flourishing trade. Her thousand mills, and the ripening
harvest of her hardj husbandmen, are the offspring of these
Alpine cliffs. Wealth and health flow from their sides ; and
liberty is always safe among their passes.
"The immense bed of moss," says Belknap, "which
covers these mountains, serves as a sponge to retain the
moisture brought by the clouds and vapors which are
frequently rising and gathering round the mountains. The
thick growth of wood prevents the rays of the sun from pen-
etrating to exhale it ; so that there is a constant supply of
water deposited in the crevices of the rocks, and issuing in
the form of springs from every part of the mountains."
From the springs originate some of the largest and finest
rivers in New England. Barren themselves, these moun-
tains send wealth and fertility to five different states. On
the southern side, the Saco and the Merrimac, —
" Two rills -which from one fountain flow.
But eastward one, the other westward hies ;
Both to a common goal their journey go, —
But this one's path along green meadows lies.
Through flowery banks, and under softest skies ;
That o'er its rocky bed, with turbid flow,
Mid noise and tumult to the ocean flies."
On the eastern side, Ellis and Peabody rivers start their
downward courses so near together that they may be stepped
across at one stride. On the western side, far up on the
mountains, at the "Lake of the Clouds," starts the Ammo-
noosuc, a tributary of the Connecticut. The streams on the
eastern side run parallel with the ranges of mountains;
while on the western side they run at right angles.
82 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
Cascades innumerable are formed by these brooks and riv-
ulets as they come tumbling down the mountains. The
glittering of these different falls in the moonbeams, Dr.
Eelknap thinks, gave rise to the idea of the huge carbuncles,
the superstitious Indians saw suspended over the steep pre-
cipices and cliffs. These cascades are unrivalled in their
romantic beauty.
About half a mile from the gate of the Notch, on the
southern side, is seen the Silver Cascade, issuing from the
mountain on the right, about eight hundred feet above the
adjacent valley, and about two miles distant. It is said to be
one of the most beautiful in the world. Ordinarily it is but a
mere rill, falling over high perpendicular ledges, with sufficient
current to make it perfectly white. The following, an excel-
lent description, is from the pen of Mr. D. P. Pages:
"Imagine yourself, gentle reader, standing upon a narrow
bridge, under which one of these cascades finds its way to
the Saco, now on your left. Away, for more than a mile to
your right, and far up toward the summit of the mountains,
you see the silver thread of falling water, now still, now
tremulous, glittering in the sunbeams. Now it disappears
behind a crag, and now it struggles on amid some broken
rocks ; anon it approaches an abrupt precipice, from which it
gayly leaps off, scattering its pearls and gems in rich pro-
fusion, as it salutes the rock below. Now it flows on ; for a
moment slowly, through a little pool in the lofty hill-side ; now
again, in a dozen streamlets, it is seen gushing forth, among
the fragments of rock, and thence seems to slide for a long
distance down the unbroken surface of the smooth ledo;e.
Thence it dashes among the rocks, throwing its whitened
spray above them ; again it falls over a projecting brink, and
plunges murmuring into another basin. Once more it quickly
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 66
issues from this enclosure, as if enraged at every obstruction.
On it rushes, dashing, eagerly pressing its way, and becoming
more noisy at every step. It is now within fifty yards, and
has disappeared behind a thicket. You hear again a plunge
and a rush, and the enraged current has burst forth, foaming
and bounding along at your very feet. You almost feel the
bridge tremble beneath you ; and as you turn toward your
left you see the mountain-torrent tumble noisily into the
bosom of the Saco. You pass on a little, and what a moment
ago was boisterous noise, occasioned by the angry rush of
many waters, is now hushed and softened into a gentle
murmur, and you would almost fall asleep, soothed by the
richest strains of the music of the waters."
Further down from the Notch is a second cascade, called
the Flume. It falls a distance of two hundred and fifty
feet over three precipices. It falls in a single current over
two precipices, when it divides and falls over a third steep
in three currents, and unites them all again in a small basin
formed in the rocks at the bottom.
Opposite to these cascades stands Mount Willard. Near
its top is the mouth of a large cavern, called the ''Devil's
Den." Curiosity was formerly on tiptoe to know what was
in it. Perhaps, proceeding inward a few steps, passages
and steps led down into the very bowels of the mountain.
Who knew but within these hollow shells, chambers and halls
ample and brilliant were waiting to be explored ? Perhaps,
winding along the thousand passages, one might reach the
hollow cavities of Mount Washington — might stand upon the
edge of some almost boundless abyss, from whence issued
forth the force which threw the mighty giant far aloft in air.
A venturous young gentleman, some years since, thought to
satisfy curiosity on this point. Ropes and tackling were
34 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
carried to the top of the mountain, and stout companions
loAvered him down to the mouth. As he neared the dark
opening, bones and skulls were seen. Perhaps it was a den ;
could he not see eyes ?
" Ere long they come, where that same wicked "wight
His dwelling has, low in a hollow cave,
Far underneath a craggy cliff, ypight,
Dark, doleful, dreary, like a greedy grave,
That still for carrion carcasses doth crave ;
On top whereof, aye dwelt the ghastly owl.
Shrieking his baneful note, which ever drave
Far from that haunt all other cheerful fowl ;
And all about it wandering ghosts did wail and howl.
* * * * * *
* * * * Arrived there.
That barehead knight, for dread and doleful teen.
Would fain have fled ; he durst approachen near."
Having, however, sufficient strength to give the signal, he
was soon with his friends on the summit.
On the eastern side of the mountain are two falls which
should not be forgotten. Near Tuckerman's Ravine, before
mentioned, Peabodj's river and Ellis river descend from
the mountain in parallel courses, until they reach the valley,
when both turn at right angles ; Peabody river, flowing north-
east, a tributary of the Androscoggin ; Ellis river, south-
east, a tributary of the Saco river.
Some hundred rods from the angle Ellis river forms in
changing its course, in a secluded ravine to the left of the
present road, as you go from Jackson to the Glen House,
the little stream comes foaming down over the rocks most
romantically and noisily. From its high starting-point,
winding round amid the rocks and low undergrowth, through
hidden recesses and glens, it has scarcely seen the day until
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INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. S5
it reaches the chasm between the piled-up rocks, and comes
tumbling over the steep ledges and projections.
The fall is eiglity feet, though not in one unbroken descent.
About half the distance up is a shelf, or stair, on ^vhich the
■water strikes, rebounding in copious showers of spray, and
rushii^g over the projection with greatly expanded surface.
This has beeff known as the Crystal Falls.
But a short distance from this, further down the Ellis
river, on the right of the road, are other falls, more nearly
resembling Silver Cascade, known as "Glen Ellis Falls.''
The water here falls seventy feet in a narrow bed between
very steep and precipitous rocky cliffs on either hand. The
basin below looks like a deep well amid the' hills, open only
on one side. It was known formerly as " Pitcher Falls."
The Ammonoosuc is the most rapid, violent, wildest river
in New Hampshire. It falls six thousand feet from its source
on the mountain, to where it enters the Connecticut. The
whole distance of thirty miles is over rough, craggy rocks,
and down steep perpendicular precipices. Cascades innu-
merable are formed along its whole course. There are several
thirty or forty feet in height. One has attracted much
attention.
About a mile from where stood the Mount Washington
House, to the westward, on the way to Littleton, may be
seen the falls of the Ammonoosuc from the road. Bursting
forth from a forest of pines, the waters come tumbling over
large broad granite shelves, laid with all the order and regu-
larity of the most finished masonry. Through these succes-
sive layers, the stream has worn its bed; at places the edges
of the layers looking like* the stone abutments of large
bridges ; at other points the layers are pulled up and broken
off, forming broad flat steps, over which the water comes
86 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
foaming like boiling torrents, where rains have filled the
channel. These layers are frequently many yards in extent,
and from a few inches to a foot in thickness. The height of
the fall is thirty feet, and, when the water is very high, it is
tossed at the base into heaps as large as haycocks.
The Franconia Mountains, another group ^f the White
Mountains, situated near their north-western boundary, are
inferior only to the more central cluster. The Great Hay-
stack, or Mount Lafayette, the highest peak in this range,
is 5,200 feet high. The mountains are situated on each side
of a narrow valley, through which flows the Pemmasawasset
river. At one point they approach to within half a mile,
and, rising up very steep and abrupt from their base, form a
narrow pass, which has been called the Franconian Notch.
The mountains in their general features resemble those of
the central range of which we have spoken ; their bases
thickly wooded and their summits bare rock, beaten and
furrowed by time and storm. The view from Mount La-
fayette is as extensive and varied as that from Mount
Washington itself Near Lafayette is Eagle Cliff, so called
from a pair of eagles, a few years since, having built their
nest on its inaccessible sides.
Cannon Mountain, nearly facing Lafayette, and forming
the western side of the Notch, has on its southern side one
of the greatest curiosities in the world. Huge rocks are so
piled up on its steep, precipitous sides, as to 'form to the
beholder the exact outline of the human face.
Said an eccentric speaker, at a celebration a few years
since in Fryburg, "Men put out signs representing their
iifferent trades ; jewellers hang out a monster watch ; shoe-
makers, a huge boot ; and, up in Franconia, God Almighty
has hung out a sign that in New England he makes men."
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 37
The top of the mountain is about 2,000 feet above the
level of the road, and 4,000 feet above the level of the sea.
Near the summit, an oblong rock resembling a cannon has
given a name to the mountain. The sides are covered -with
a thick growth of maple, beech, birch, and spruce.
The Profile Kock itself is more than 1,200 feet above the
level of the road ; it being situated far below the summit of
the mountain. The profile is composed of three separate
masses of rock, one of which forms the forehead, the second
the nose and upper lip, and the third the chin. Only at one
particular place are they brought into their proper position,
which is on the road leading through the Notch, about a
quarter of a mile south of the Lafayette House. The ex-
pression of the /ace, as it stands out in bold relief against the
sky, is quite stern. The mouth alone betrays any signs of
age and feebleness. But the '' Old Man of the Mountains"
has never been known to flinch. "He neither blinks at the
near flashes of the lightning beneath his nose, nor flinches
from the di'iving snow and sleet of the Franconia winter,
which makes the mercury of the thermometer shrink into the
bulb and congeal."
Passing down the road from the particular spot where it
can be seen in perfection, the Old Man's countenance changes
first into a " toothless old woman in a mob cap," and soon the
profile is entirely lost. In passing up the road, the nose and
face flatten until the forehead alone is seen.
The length of the profile, from the top of the forehead to
the lowest point of the chin, is eighty feet. The face looks
towards the south-east, and is perhaps half a mile distant
from the observer in the road.
• At the base of the mountain, directly beneath the Old
Man's eye, is a quiet little pond about a quarter of a mile in
4
38 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. |
length, and half as wide, called Profile Lake. Its waters
are destitute of fish. It was never frequented by the Indians
from fear of the stern image reflected in it.
Oakes speaks of a beautiful optical illusion to be seen
from the summit of Cannon Mountain.
" In a bright day in October, a most delightful optical
illusion may be seen over the summit of the mountain, which
I first noticed in the autumn of 1845, while looking with a
spy-glass, and which I have since often seen. Near the
middle of the afternoon, when the sun has just sunk behind
the top of the mountain, the spruce and fir trees seen against
the sky near the sun, and a large space of the sky above
them, are bathed in a pure golden light, bright and intense, .
in which the branches and trunks of the tree^ are distinctly
visible ; but of the same brightness as the surrounding space,
as if they were transparent gold. Around this mountain
pyre I saw hovering, floating and. gliding, issuing and
returning, with the most graceful motion, beautiful white
birds, like the departed spirits of eastern fire-worshippers
around the element they adore. I found, at last, that these
phantom-birds were thistle down, wafted over the lake by the
gentle south wind, in reality quite near the eye, but only
visible in the light at the top of the mountain.
' I took it for a fairy vision
Of some gay creatures of the element,
That in the colors of the rainbow live.
And play in the plighted clouds. ' "
North of the Cannon Mountain, beneath Eagle Cliff, is
the small, but exceedingly deep pond, called Echo Lake. It
is entirely surrounded by mountains. From the centre of *
this lake the voice in common conversation will echo two or
/
t
. INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 39
three times distinctly, while the firing of a gun is like the
discharge of a park of artillery. No wonder the poor Indian
thought the heard the war-whoop of the Gods sounding,
during his wild carousals.
One pleasant morning, in the summer-of 1850, a friend and
myself pushed out into this little pond. Around us on all
sides the clear water reflected back the high cliffs in all their
• beauty and wildness. As we gave a loud halloo, the moun-
tains directly before us gave back the cry, like an army of
men shouting from its summit. As that died away, the moun-
tain behind us caught up the sound, and returned it like the
shouting of an opposing army; and, as that died out, the
hills upon our right and left tossed back and forth the
lessening shout, until it could be heard far off taking its
flight. The several echoes are very distinct, and each
commences as the preceding closes.
Five miles south of Franconia Notch, in the town of
Lincoln, are very interesting curiosities.
Near the road-side the Pemmasawasset river has worn, in
the solid rock which forms its bed, a very curious cavity,
known as the Basin. It is forty feet in diameter, and twenty-
eifi;ht feet from the edo;e to the bottom of the water. The
water, rushing in with great force at one side, whii'led rocks
round in its current, until it has worn the solid rock to its
present shape and depth. It is almost perfectly circular, and
the water rushes round it several times with great velocity
before it goes out at the opposite side. It would take a
strong swimmer to buffet its waters. The water itself is
usually ten or twelve feet deep. The sides above the water
are very smooth and regular, and the bottom is strewn with
rocks bright and round. The water, as it falls over the brink
into th^ cavity, forms a beautiful cascade, white with foam.
40 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
The lower margin of the basin where the water passes out,
worn off by the current, has been formed into a very striking
representation of a human leg and foot.
During a freshet, the whole basin is filled by a foaming,
whirling torrent, of great quantity and force.
Leaving the road just below the basin, and turning to the
left up among the hills, after nearly a mile's walk, you come
upon a slightly-inclined granite ledge, more than one hun-
dred feet in length, and thirty feet wide, bare, solid, and
very smooth. Over this runs a small stream — now mur-
muring along in a narrow, shallow bed, and now spread out
over the whole width.
Near the top of the ledge you enter what has been called
"The Flume." Twenty feet apart rise up perpendicular walls
of solid rock, fifty feet in height. The uplifted walls were
evidently split apart far back in time by some convulsion in
nature; in many places the projections on one side corre-
sponding with like depressions on the opposite. Through this
vast and regular fissure flows the little stream we have just
mentioned ; its bed so narrow as to afford sufficient room for
dry footing through the entire extent. These walls are cov-
ered with a green moss, and, within, the air is very damp and
cool. This recess is several hundred feet long, gradually
narrowing to the upper extremity, where it is but ten or
eleven feet wide.
About midway, a huge boulder, weighing several tons, has
rolled down from the top of the cliff, and caught in its
descent in a somewhat narrower space, and remains suspended
half-way down between the perpendicular walls. Several
years ago a pine-tree fell across the Flume, near its top, and
its trunk forms a rude and dangerous bridge over the chasm.
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 41
Near the Flume is a deep natural well in the solid rock.
A small stream flows over its northern brink, finding egress
in a narrow opening opposite. It is more than one hundred
and fifty feet from the brink of the well to the surface of the
water below. The diameter of this "Pool" is about sixty
feet. The water in the bottom is about forty feet deep, and
greatly agitated.
Several years since, a gentleman from New Orleans made
a misstep and fell into this pool. Though the water was icy
cold, and he was encumbered with his clothes, he had presence
of mind to swim to a crag of the rock on a level with the
water. There were no means of ascent except by ropes,
which were procured by friends who were with him at the
time of the fall. He fastened a rope round his body, and
was raised aloft, drenched and bruised ; but the only human
thing, we presume, that ever came from the pool alive after
such a fall.
These are but a few, and imperfectly described, of the
many interesting localities among the mountains. They
should be seen to be appreciated — the mighty monarch with
all the noble clifis clustering around him.
Heaven bless him, with all his sun, moon and stars ! Call
him the noblest of " the mountain kings." " His subjects are
princes, and gloriously they range around him, stretching
high, wide, and far away; yet all owing visible allegiance
to their sole and undisputed sovereign. The setting and
rising sun do him homage. Peace loves to dwell within his
shadows; but high among the precipices are the halls of
the storms."
4*
CHAPTER III
THE INDIANS.
THE UNCERTAINTY OF THE MANY TRADITIONS. — THE SUPERSTITIONS OF THE
INDIANS PROBABLE CAUSE OF THOSE SUPERSTITIONS. TRADITION OF A
FLOOD. — GREAT TREASURES OF GOLD AND GEMS. — SEARCH FOR TREAS-
URES.— THE PARTICULAR TRIBES INHABITING THE MOUNTAINS. — INDIAN
RELICS IN CONWAY — IN OSSIPEE IN FRYBURG. THE SOKOKIS. —
THEIR DESTRUCTION BY THE PESTILENCE, — ACCOUNT OF VINES. — OF HIS VIS-
IT TO THEM. — SQUANDO. — DEATH OF HIS CHILD. ASSACUMBUIT. — VISIT
TO FRANCE. — DESTRUCTION OF HAVERHILL. — POLAN. — WHITTIER'S VERSES
ON HIS BURIAL. — CHOCORUA. HIS CURSE. ANASAGUNTICOOKS. —
THEIR CHIEFS. HON. ENOCH LINCOLN'S INTEREST IN INDIANS OF THIS RE-
GION. — VISIT OF GOV. LINCOLN TO NATALLUCK. — INDIAN MYTH. — THE
LITTLE INDIAN INFANT. — CURIOUS MARRIAGE CUSTOM
" For many a tale
Traditionary, round the mountain hung,
And many a legend, peopling the dark woods."
The Indian history of the White Mountains, as elsewhere,
is involved in mystery. From the many myths and tales but
few reliable facts can be obtained. That powerful tribes once
lived beneath the shadow of theii' heights, once hunted these
valleys, not only tradition, but their remains attest. But
their ancient encampments, their favorite retreats, the hills
they were accustomed to ascend, and the waters they dare
fish, are unknown.
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 43
The highest peaks they never dared ascend. They peo-
pled these mountains with bemgs of a superior rank, who
were invisible to the human eye, but sometimes indicated
their presence by tempests, which they were believed to con-
trol with absolute authority. The ascent they deemed not only
perilous, but impossible.
And to one who has visited the mountains, and heard their
singularly loud and almost deafening echo, the fears of the
superstitious savages may not seem entirely without founda-
tion. The terrific thunder-showers, which frequently occur
among these cliffs, are enough to startle the boldest. To
" The poor Indian, whose untutored mind
Sees God in clouds and hears him in the wind,"
these storms were appalling beyond expression. Trembling
with fright, he sees the evil spirits of his imagination, on
their dark black clouds, gathering around these lofty sum-
mits, where
" Unusual darkness broods. . . . A reddening gloom,
A boding silence reigns
Dread through the dun expanse : save the dull sound,
That from the mountains, previous to the storm.
Rolls o'er the muttering earth, disturbs the flood,
And shakes the forest leaf, without a breath,
'T is listening fear, and dumb amazement all ;
When to the startled eye the sudden glance
Appears — eruptive through the cloud.
And following shower in explosion vast.
The thunder raises his tremendous voice,
********
Amid Carnarvon's mountains rages loud
The repercussive roar ; with mighty crush.
Into the flashing deep, from the rude rocks
Of Penmanmaur heaped hideous to the sky.
44 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
Tumble the smitten cliffs ; and Snowden's peak,
Dissolving, instant yields his wintry load."
Slides must have occurred before the ones in 1826, judg-
ing from appearances of the mountains, but where, or how
extensive, we know not. Traditions of these existed, un-
doubtedly, among the Indians, tending greatly to increase
their fear and veneration. The suddenness and violence of
the storms they had themselves witnessed, and the exaggerated
tradition of still more violent ones experienced by their fath-
ers, had produced a fear they could never overcome. Darby
Field, the first explorer of the mountains, not only could not
persuade them to accompany him
" To those mountains, ■white and cold.
Of which the Indian trapper told.
Upon whose summits never yet
Was mortal foot in safety set ;"
but they were most earnest in their entreaties for him not to
undertake the daring feat, and thus so stir up the wrath of the
Gods.
A tradition, similar to what has been found to exist among
most savage tribes, concerning a deluge having once over-
spread the land, prevailed among the Indians. Every human
being was destroyed, and the world was drjowned, save the
White Mountains, where a single powow and his wife retreated
and were saved. These mountains they climbed, found pro-
tection from the rising water, and thus preserved the race
from extermination.
Suspended at immense heights over the precipii?es, and be-
yond the reach of human hands, the Indians saw huge car-
buncles, which, in the darkness of night, shone with the most
brilliant splendor.
And even among the early settlers, vast treasures, guarded
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 45
bj evil spirits, were supposed to be bidden among tbe hills.
Says Ethan A. Crawford : ' ' I recollect a number of years ago,
when quite a boy, some persons had been upon the hills, and
said they had found a golden treasure, or carbuncle, wliich
they said was under a large-, shelving rock, and would be diffi-
cult to obtain, for they might fall and be dashed to pieces.
Moreover, they thought it was guarded by an evil spirit, sup-
posing that it had been placed there by the Indians, and that
they had killed one of their number, and left him to guard the
'treasure ; which some credulous, superstitious persons believed,
and they got my father to engage to go and search for it.
Providing themselves with everything necessary for the busi-
ness, and a sufficient number of good men, and a minister
well qualified to lay the evil spirit, they set out in good
earnest and high spirits, anticipating with pleasure how rich
they should be in coming home laden with gold ; that is, if
they should have the good luck to find it. They set out, and
went up Dry river, and had hard work to find their way
through the thickets and over the hills, where they made dil-
igent search for a number of days, with some of the former
men spoken of for guides ; but they could not find the place
again, nor anything that seemed to be like it, until, worn out
with fatigue and disappointment, they returned ; and never
since, to my knowledge, has any one found that wonderful
place again, or been troubled with the mountain spirit."
The Indians inhabiting more particularly the White
Mountains, were the Sokokies, or Pequawkets, and Anasa-
gunticoolvs, tribes of the Abenakis. Traces of their ancient
encampments are frequently discovered on the banks of the riv-
ers, and near the ponds. In Conway, near the homestead of my
father, pipes, and pieces of kettles, of a soft substance, easily
cut with a knife, and of a whitish color, have often been dis-
46 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
covered. The pipes and kettles must have been quite large.
On Crocker's point, in Conway, formed by one of the many
turnings and bends of the Saco river, guns and hatchets were
found, in former years, in considerable numbers.
Further down, on the same river, on what is known as
Merrill's intervale, are indications of a large encampment.
Fields, embracing acres, where the Indians formerly raised
corn, are clearly marked out. Amid the growth of trees
which have since sprung up, the corn-hills, such as are seen
in any harvested corn-field, are quite distinctly seen. The
older settlers say that, from appearances, the first growth of
trees had been destroyed by "girdling" them; an operation
consisting merely in peeling the bark ofi" entirely round the
trees, causing them to decay and fall.
Some years since, in Conway, while digging the cellar
where at present stands the house of a Mr. Furber, the per-
fect skeleton of a human body was found in a sitting posture.
•' The Indian, when from life released,
Again is seated with his friends.
And shares again the joyous feast."
In Ossipee is a large mound of earth, forty-five or fifty
feet in diameter, perfectly round, and about ten feet high.
It is one hundred rods from the western shore of Ossipee
Lake, in a large meadow. The trees, which covered this
mound, were cut oif not many years since, the stumps of some
of them measuring a foot in diameter. Extensive excavations
have never been made in this mound ; and yet, there have
been taken from it, by only digging from the top, three
entire skeletons. One of these was full-grown, in a sitting
posture, with a piece of birch-bark over his head. Toma-
hawks, and many pieces of coarse earthen-ware, have been
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 47
found on the surrounding meadow- Corn-hills, in several
directions, were distinctly discernible when the land was
first cleared. This was undoubtedly, at one time, the resi-
dence of the Indians.
Not far from this mound are yet to be seen the remains of
the fort, built by Lovewell, on his way to fight the Pequaw-
kets, an account of which we have given in another place.
This appears to have been only palisaded, or a stockade fort.
Its eastern face fronted the lake, and was situated on the top
of a small bank, near the river which here empties into the
lake. At the north and south ends of the fort, considerable
excavations of earth were made, resembling cellars in size
and appearance. A ditch, in which the palisades were set,
appears to have run round the whole tract which the fort
contained, which was about an acre.
In Fryburg there are many mounds and other indications
of their ancient encampments. At one place there the mounds
are five in number, and situated near together. The princi-
pal one is sixty feet in circumference, and within this is a
smaller, in which a tree of considerable size formerly stood.
There are four others, extending out from the centre one, so
as to form eight angles.
Here was one of the large villages of the Pequawkets.
The side of the village is about one mile and a half west from
Love well's pond, on the eastern bank of the Saco river, and
nearly two miles west from Fryburg village and the acad-
emy. The peculiarly favorable situation of this spot for an
Indian encampment we have spoken of in another place.
The Sokokies were originally a large people, but became
much reduced by their many wars. The principal residence
of their sagamores was upon Indian island, just above the
Lower Falls, where now stands Saco village. There were
48 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
two branches of the tribe, and two lodgments ; one at Fry-
burg, which we have referred to, and the other at Ossipee
pond. Here, before Philip's war, they employed English
carpenters and built a strong fort of timbers, fourteen feet in
height, with flankers, intending it as a fortification against
the Mohawks.
Until their decided overthrow and almost annihilation by
Lovewellj in the well-known battle of Saco pond, an account
of which we have given in another place, the Sokokis were
the most feared of all the northern Indians. The mere men-
tion of the Pequawkets, more particularly, would have
awakened fear in the heart of the boldest adventurer in the
frontier settlements, and frozen the blood of the timid with
horror. So sudden were their movements, so well sustained
and so indescribably cruel their massacres, that the English
never felt safe from their attacks ; but the least sound heard
through the still night was interpreted to be the stealthy
footsteps of the Pequawkets ; and quick came the breath, and
big drops of sweat oozed out, as the listener lay expecting
each moment to hear their shrill war-whoop.
This tribe appears to have suffered, in common with all the
eastern Indians, by the terrible sickness which desolated New
England immediately preceding its settlement by the Eng-
lish, so startlingly described by Morton, in his New English
Canaan. " But contrary wise, in short time after, the hand
of God fell heavily upon them, with such a mortall stroake,
that they died in heaps, as they lay in their houses, and the
living, that were to shift for themselves, would runne away
and let them dy, and let their carkases ly above the ground
without buriall. For, in a place where many inhabited, there
hath been but one left alive to tell what became of the rest ;
the living being (as it seems) not able to bury the dead.
INCIDE:fTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 49
They were left for crowes, kites, and vermine, to prey upon.
And the bones and skulls, upon the severall places of their
habitations, in that forest nere the Massachusetts, it seemed to
me a new-found Golgotha."
Mr. Vines and his companions, who partially explored
this region in the year 1616, describe the natives as suffer-
ing greatly, not only from the ravages of the pestilence, but
from the death of the Bashaba, or chief sachem, whom the
Tarratines, a tribe living east of the Penobscot, had attacked
by surprise, and destroyed with all his family. '^ Great dis-
sensions had immediately followed among the different tribes,
who were engaged in a destructive war with each other, when
the pestilence made its appearance. In the midst of these
evils, the Englishmen passed with safety among them, and
slept in their cabins without suffering from the contagion."
Squando, the first chief of this tribe mentioned, was, in
the language of Mather, "a strange, enthusiastical sag-
amore." He was very tall, and large of person, dignified in
his deportment, impressive in his address, and possessed nat-
urally of great strength of mind. With the wild supersti-
tions of the savage had become mingled, in his mind, the
truths of Christianity, which he had learned in his intercourse
with the whites. He aspired to the character of a prophet,
and made his followers believe that he held communion with the
invisible spirits. God, he said, in the form of a tall man in
dark clothes, had appeared to him, and commanded him to
worship him more faithfully, to forbear hunting and laboring
on the Sabbath, to abstain from drinking strong liquors, to
pray, to attend the preaching of the gospel, and had made
known to him the entire extinction of the English by the In-
dians in a few years. These commands he is said to have
observed strictly for a long time.
60 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
But in 1675 came, as he said, the fulfilment of the latter
part of his vision. And the solemn, earnest chief wrought
up the eastern Indians, by revengeful eloquence, to the high-
est pitch of excitement. Josseljn had reported that young
Indian children could '' swim naturally, striking their paws
under their throat like a dog, and not spreading their arms
as we do; " some sailors, to prove the truth of the assertion,
had overset the canoe in which was Squanders wife and child.
The child sank rapidly, and was only saved by the mother,
who, diving, brought it up alive. Not long after, the child
died, and its death was imputed, by its parents, to the ill
treatment received. '' So highly did this exasperate Squando,
that he resolved to use all his arts and influence to arouse and
inflame the Indians against the settlers." And how success-
ful he was, the annals of 1675 and 1676 but too faithfully
depict.
Drake thus closes his account of this chief: " He was a
great powow, and acted in concert with Madokawando. These
two chiefs are said to be, by them that knew them, a strange
kind of moralized savages ; grave and serious in their speech
and carriage, and not without some show of a kind of religion,
which no doubt but they have learned from the prince of
darkness. In another place, Mr. Hubbard calls him an
' enthusiastical or rather diabolical miscreant,' His abilities
in war gained him this epithet."
Assacumbuit, of all the chiefs of the Sokokis, was the most
famous. Unlike Squando, he possessed no good qualities.
To brutal courage he added a turpitude and ferocity unpar-
alleled. Mather tells the story of a beautiful little girl,
Thomasin Rouse, this chief had kidnapped from her parents.
The tears of the little captive provoked his wrath, and his
daily practice was to whip the poor child till she could not
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 51
stand. One day she had been beaten by him till he sup-
posed her dead, when she was kicked into the water and left.
The poor girl was rescued by a kinder Indian, and after-
wards restored to her parents. Mather says, in conclusion :
" This Assacumbuit hath killed and taken in this war (they
tell me), one hundred and fifty men, women and children.
A bloody devil."
He became, by his demoniac cruelties, not only the dread
of the English, but incurred the intense hatred of the In-
dians by his arrogance and pride. He always carried a huge
club, on which were notches denoting the number of English
he had killed. He was particularly attached to the French,
and under some of their leaders won great renown. And so
highly did the French esteem their ally that in 1705 Vau-
dreuil sent him to France. Here he was an object of great
curiosity. At "Versailles he was introduced to Louis XIV.,
surrounded by his splendid court. The king presented him
with a beautiful sword, the undaunted chieftain remarking,
as he held out his hand to receive it, '• This hand has slain
one hundred and forty of your majesty's enemies in New
England." This so pleased the king that he knighted him,
and commanded a pension of eight livres a day to be allowed
him for life. On his return to America, he wore upon his
breast the insignia of his knighthood displayed in large letters.
He was so "exalted that he treated his countrymen in the
most haughty and arrogant manner, murdering one and stab-
bing another, which so exasperated those of their relations,
that they sought revenge, and would have instantly executed
it, but that he fled" for protection to the French. Still faith-
ful to his former masters, he accompanied Rouville in his
attack upon Haverhill.
62 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
" Quiet and calm, without a fear
Of danger darkly lurking near.
The weary laborer left his plough,
The milk-maid carolled by her cow ;
From cottage door and household hearth
Rose songs of praise, or tones of mirth.
At length the murmur died away,
And silence on that village lay.
A yell, the dead might wake to hear.
Swelled on the night air, far and clear ;
Then smote the Indian tomahawk
On crashing door and shattering lock ;
Then rang the rifle-shot — and then
The shrill death-scream of stricken men ;
Sunk the red axe in woman's brain.
And childhood's cry arose in vain.
• Bursting through roof and window came
Red, fast, and fierce, the kindled flame ;
And blended fire and moonlight glared
Over dead corse and weapons bared."
Assacumbuit, in this attack, fought by the side of Rouville;
and performed prodigies of valor with the sword that had
been presented him by the King of France. In the retreat
he was wounded in the foot.
Whittier has so beautifully described the burial of one of
the chiefs of the Sokokis, that w^e can but give it here. Po-
lan was a chief that lingered around the hunting-grounds of
his fathers after the majority of his tribe had removed to
Canada. He was an inveterate enemy of the settlers, shrewd,
subtle, and brave. He was killed in a skirmish at Windham,
on Sebago lake, in the spring of 1756. After the white men
had retired, the surviving Indians '' swayed" or bent down a
young tree, until its roots were turned up, placed the body
of their chief beneath them, and then released the tree to
spring back to its former position.
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 53
** Scarce have the death-shot echoes died
Along Sebago's wooded side ;
And silent now the hunters stand,
Grouped darkly, where a swell of land
Slopes upward from the lake's white sand.
Fire and the axe have swept it bare.
Save one lone beech, unclosing there
Its light leaves in the April air.
With grave, cold looks, all sternly mute.
They break the damp turf at its foot.
And bare its coiled and twisted root.
They heave the stubborn trunk aside.
The firm roots from the earth divide -
The rent beneath yawns dark and wide.
And there the fallen chief is laid,
In tasselled garb of skins arrayed.
And girdled with his wampum braid.
The silver cross he loved is pressed
Beneath the heavy arms, which rest
Upon his scarred and naked breast.
'T is done ; the roots are backward sent.
The beechen tree stands up unbent —
- The Indian's fitting monument ! "
•Chocorua, another of the chiefs who remained after his
tribe had left the country, has given his name to one of the
peaks on the extreme boundary of the White Mountains. It
is a singularly-shaped mountain, its top rising up like a tower
crowned by turrets at its corners. To the south ihe ascent
of the summit is perpendicular, rising up smooth rock some
hundred feet.
5*
54 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
To this, tradition says, Chocorua had retreated, pursued by
a miserable white hunter. To the highest point he had
climbed, and there he stood unarmed, while below, and within
gunshot, stood his pursuer. Chocorua besought the hunter
not to kill him. He plead his friendliness to the whites, and
the harmless, scattered condition of his few followers. But
the hardened hunter was unmoved ; the price of his scalp was
too tempting ; gold plead stronger than the poor Indian. See-
ing that he should avail nothing, the noble chieftain, raising
himself up, stretched forth his arms, and called upon the Gods
of his fathers to curse the land. Then, casting a defiant
glance at his pursuer, he leaped from the brink of the preci-
pice on the south side to the rocks below. And to this day,
saj the inhabitants, a malignant disease has carried off the
cattle that they have attempted rearing around this mountain.
The Anasagunticooks, originally a numerous and powerful
tribe, claimed dominion of the waters and territories of the
river Androscoggin, or, as it was formerly called, Amaris-
coggan; meaning "banks of a river abounding in dried
meat."
They were a warlike people. No tribe was less inter-
rupted in their privileges of fishing and fowling ; and yet
none were more uniformly and bitterly hostile towards the
colonists. Tarumkin, Warumbee and Hagkins, their saga-
mores, were brave men ; but the tribes wasted away during
the wars, and, in 1747, they were unable to muster more thSLn
one hundred and sixty warriors fit to march. With the Pe-
quawkets they early retired to St. Francois, in Canada. A
few, however, remained lingering around their ancient
encampments. Till w^ithin a few years, small encampments
of three or four lodges would be found occasionally where
game was plenty, or they could obtain easily the material to
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 55
construct their baskets and other trinkets. They -were very
harmless and inoffensive, and always bore about them an air
of dejection and sadness. But within a few years they have
almost entirely disappeared, and an Indian is now seldom
seen.
The Hon. Enoch Lincoln took great interest in the few In-
dians remaining around the White Mountains and the lakes.'
When governor of the State of Maine, he visited one Natal-
luck, who had built a hut, and was residing with his daughter,
on the shores of the Umbagog. The old chief had become
blind, and depended almost entirely upon his young daughter
for support. Warmly did he welcome the governor, however,
and many were the excursions they made over the lake in the
birch canoe of the Indian, paddled by the blind old chief
He remained a number of days, sharing with the chief all the
rude accommodations of his wigwam.
In Governor Lincoln's younger days I well remember
visiting with him an encampment of six or seven Indians, who
were residing near Fryburg. Many were the myths and
tales told us, one of which I distinctly recollect. An Indian
had been drowned. The search for him had been long and
close, but no traces of his body had yet been discovered.
One bright starlight night, as they were setting out upon
their last search, the moon rose, and said to them, '•' I will
aid you. By my light you shall find your dead brother.
My bright beams shall point out his hiding-place." Many
other stories were related by the intelligent squaw.
After one of the bloody engagements, in which the Indians
had taken part, an English officer was wandering over the
field where the encounter had taken place. As he passed
among the dead, he noticed, lying near the body of a stalwart
savage, the dead body of a beautiful squaw. From appear-
56 INCIDENTS IN WniTE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
ance, the affectionate wife had sought her husband amid
the heaps of slain, and had perished in his embrace. As he
turned to leave the spot, he espied — what before had escaped
his notice — two little black ejes, smilingly peeping at him
from behind its mother. On examining, he found a little
pappoose strapped to its mother's back. There it lay, a
beautiful little infant, its sparkling eyes looking him directly
in the face, all unconscious of its dreadful situation. As he
stood watching the little creature, a brutal soldier rushed up,
and, ere he could be prevented, struck the little Indian on the
head with his gun, instantly killing it.
A curious marriage custom also prevailed among these In-
dians. The claims of rivals to the hand of the beautiful
squaws was decided, not by the more modern practice of pis-
tols and powder, but by hard fist-fights ; the coveted beauty
acting as umpire, and deciding on the merits of her lovers.
At a time when some officers and soldiers were quartered in
the region, it was noised abroad that a battle was to take
place between two Indians, to see which of them should be
entitled to the hand of a captivating young squaw, who had
stolen the affections of both. As such a thing seldom took
place, it was determined to make the most of it, and accord-
ingly the officers persuaded the Indians to have their contest
in the fort. The fort, by the way, was an inhabited log house.
The officers and soldiers arran2!;ed themselves around the
room ; the children of the family occupying the house fled
to the chamber, to look down through the cracks in the floor
upon the combatants, and the middle of the room was left
clear for the scuffle. Like some ancient Goddess, the dark-
skinned beauty was hoisted on a table, and seated on a box, to
watch the contention of her lovers. All being ready, the
young Indians entered. An older Indian stripped them of
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 57
all weapons, that they might not take life in the heat of their
passions. Being thus prepared, on a given signal they rush
upon each other with all their strength. In Indian fashion,
they seize, with an iron grasp, each other by the hair, and,
according to our narrator, " pulled, twitched, and jerked one
another about the room with all their might, till, at last, one
being a little stronger than the other, smashed him violently
against the cellar-door, so that both went through and struck
upon the bottom, holding their grasp till the fall." On the
return of the poor fellows from the cellar, the squaw chose
for her husband the strongest.
CHAPTER IV.
coos COUNTY.
coos AS A FARMING COUNTY. — THE OPINION OF HON. ISAAC HILL. DK.
DWIGHT'S account OF THE CLIMATE. THE MANY AND PECULIAR
SHAPES OF TOWNS. KILKENNY. PILOT ANDWILLARD MOUNTAINS.
STORY OF WILLARD AND HIS DOG. RANDOLPH. EXTENSIVE VIEWS
FROM RANDOLPH. ASCENT OF MOUNT JEFFERSON. GREAT DANGER
IN A STORM. VIEW FROM JEFFERSON. JEFFERSON. BEAUTIFUL SITU-
ATION OF JEFFERSON. BROTHERS GLINES. COLONEL WHIPPLE. HIS
YEARLY VISIT TO PORTSMOUTH. STORY LLUSTRATING HIS CARE OF HIS
TOWNSMEN. HIS CAPTURE BY THE INDIANS, AND ESCAPE. MR. GO-
THAM. THE IMPORTANCE OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE NOTCH. NASH's
DISCOVERY OF THE PASS. GOV. WENTWORTH. GETTING A HORSE THROUGH
THE DEFILE. SAWYER. " SAWYER'S ROCK." MOUNTAIN CARRIAGES.
— BARREL OF TOBACCO. BARREL OF RUM. CUTTING THE ROAD THROUGH
THE NOTCH. — hart's LOCATION.
Coos is a habitable county in the northern part of New
Hampshire, meaning crooked; and Coos was the Indian
name of the Connecticut river, near Lancaster. It is neither
too mountainous to be cultivated, nor too sterile to be produc-
tive. It is not covered with perpetual snow ; and, though its
climate is somewhat cold in winter, its inhabitants are healthy
and long-lived. We know that this is not the opinion which
has been formed in the minds of most in respect to it. A
shudder will almost involuntarily creep over one as he thinks
of the barren, inhospitable regions north of the White Moun-
tains. Along its rivers are beautiful intervals, and on its
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 59
uplands are the finest wheat-farms in New England. Said
the late Hon. Isaac Hill: " Prompted by an ardent curiosity
to learn locations, and duly estimate the value of that part of
the north which has been passed by as scarcely fit for settle-
ment, I made my way through the northernly part of Ver-
mont, into the Canada townships, to the Indian stream
country, and down through New Hampshire, during the past
summer. I was surprised at the extent and value of this
whole country for farming purposes. I believe the tract of
country for one hundred miles south of the forty-fifth degree
eastward of Lake Champlain, over Vermont and New
Hampshire, through the whole extent of Maine to the Bay
of Fundy and the sea, to be the most valuable tract of land
in New England. The Canada townships, of ten miles
further north, are splendid; Stanstead may be taken as a
sample. The best township of Vermont is said to be Derby,
lying side by side of it. The cattle and the productions of
these two towns are all on a larger scale than we find down
south. Both in the Canada townships, and within our own
limits, there are thousands on thousands of acres of beautiful
lands, covered with the heaviest and most valuable timber, yet
to be taken up. The climate here, most conducive to health and
long life, should be regarded as no obstacle to the settler. The
railroads are destined to make every standing tree valuable.
Tllfe splendid growth need not to be cut down, girdled or
wasted, upon these lands. Upon this region the snow, falling
in November, sometimes covers the ground till May. Con-
trary to my previous expectations, I am led to consider this
annual covering a benefit rather than an injury. It gives a
time for active business to all who have a desire to stir about.
There the winter is the gayest and most desirable season.
Clothed with its white covering, the ground is generally
60 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
preserved from deep frost, and the spring opens as a continued
summer for the growth of vegetation."
Dr. D wight, in his travels, has also remarked the beneficial
effect of the snow upon the ground, preventing it from
freezing deeply, and protecting it from much frost. The
season of vegetation directly north of the mountains is con-
sequently as long, and in some spots longer than in places
much further south; and the climate of the towns lying
under the mountains on the north, he says, is as mild and
pleasant as many towns in the southern part of the state.
The south-east winds are entirely checked, or so elevated by
their passage over the mountains, as not to be felt by the
towns skirting the northern side ; while the north-west winds,
rebounding upon themselves, produce an entire calm. This
corresponds well with the facts ; the climate of Lancaster and
Jefferson is mild and warm compared with many towns on the
southern side.
" But nothing could surprise me again." writes an eminent
English traveller, ' ' after having been told one day in New
Hampshire, when seated on a rock in the midst of the wild
woods, far from any dwelling, that I was in the exact centre
of the town.
" ' God made the country, and man made the town,' sang
the poet Cowper ; and I can well imagine how the village
pupils must be puzzled until the meaning of this verse 'has
been expounded to them by the schoolmaster." Most truly
some very queer-shaped towns has man made among these
mountains, and quite a learned schoolmaster we think it
would take to find the centre of many of them. There is a
Chinese puzzle, consisting of a box and seven or eight differ-
ent-shaped pieces, triangles, squares, parallelograms, which
can be put into hundreds of different and very odd shapes.
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 61
We think the first surveyors must have studied deeply this
puzzle, and, with the many queer figures still floating in
their brain, laid out these towns. How else to account for their
shape we know not. We do not think they could be ascribed
to political purposes, as many queer-shaped towns and districts
have been ; for Farmer, speaking of them even so lately as
1823, does not seem to think them worthy of much political
anxiety. He says, speaking of the inhabitants, ' ' They are
poor, and, for aught that appears to the contrary, must always
remaui so, as they may be deemed actual trespassers on that
part of creation, destined by its author for the residence of
bears, wolves, moose, and other animals of the forest ! "
This description applies more particularly to Kilkenny, the
most irregular of the many irregular townships. It is in
the form of a triangle surmounted by a parallelogram many
miles in length, but hardly a mile in width. Its northern
boundary, the base of the triangle, lies amid the rich interval
land of which we have been speaking in the beginning of this
chapter, while the opposite extremity of the town is located
upon the mountains, many miles south in the locations.
Pilot and Willard Mountains cover a large part of the town,
affording some fine farms along their base, and higher up
excellent grazing land. They were so named from a hunter
and his dog. A bold, hardy class of adventurers, similar to
the first pioneers of the Western States, "seem to have hunted
and lived around these mountains many years previous to
their first permanent settlement. Their particular history,
who or what they were, beyond their name, and one or two
isolated facts, it is impossible to learn. Hardly a town but
contains some stream or mountain bearing their name. Some-
times we find two living together, but not often.
• 6 .
62 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
•' Alone, (how glorious to be free !)
My good clog at my side,
My rifle hanging on my arm,
I range the forests wide.
* * * *
Now track the mountain stream, to find
The beaver's lurking-place."
This Willard had j^itched his tent on the eastern side of
the most northerly mountains, and set his traps on the
streams around. He was a stranger, entirely unacquainted
with the region, and for a time must depend upon the game
he already had in his camj) for subsistence. In his explora-
tions he one day became confused, and at last completely
lost. He knew not whether to turn to the right or left.
There was nothing to direct him, or give him any stand-point
from which iie might shape his course.- If he climbed trees
he could hardly see over the tops of the surrounding ones ;
or if he scaled the " mountain- top,
*' And (solitude profound !)
Not even a woodman's smoke curls up
Within the horizon's bound."
For two* or three days he wandered thus until he was
nearly famished. At last he bethought him of his dog, and
he was gone ; and be recollected that each day at such a time
he had left him, and after being gone a short time would
return. Impatiently he now waited his return, and, giving
up the search, on the following day, guided by his dog, he
reached his camp, not far from which he had been wandering.
Randolph, adjoining Kilkenny on the east, was granted to
one John Durand, of London, in the year 1Y72. It bore
the name of its proprietor till the year 1824, when it was
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTOKY. 63
changed to Randolph. Its southern boundary is far up on
Mount Madison. The views of the whole mountain group
are the best from this town that can be had. From 'Randolph
Hill, Madison, Jefferson, and Adams, can be seen entire
from base to summit. The hill is not many miles from the
Glen House, and it is now a favorite resort of visitors, as in
fact many eminences in this town are for their extensive
prospects. Adams, as seen from its northern side, resembles
an extinct volcano. But few ever ascend these peaks ; the
ambition of most travellers being satisfied with ascending
Mount Washington. "We accidentally have found, in the
Portland Transcript, an account of a party who ascended
several years since, which we copy at length.
'• We had all the while determined on ascending the
northern part of the range to Mount Jefferson, partly on
account of its superior wildnaes and grandeur, and partly
because of the exceedingly few visitants to this place, com-
pared with those to Mount Washington — the facilities for
reaching the latter being so much greater, and the curiosity
of the traveller not sufiiciently strong to induce him to take
the necessary toil for the former. The difference in the
height of the two is barely more than nominal. The view,
too, is said to be better from Jefferson ; and, in our scale of
estimation, the great ones, whose names these summits bear,
stand on the same parallel. One wielded the sword, the other
the pen. One prepared the way, spread the segis ; the
other laid the platform on which to rear a nation's indepen-
dence.
" We were informed by our guide, when we commenced the
toilsome ascent, that one third of the mountains was hidden
in clouds ; the truth of which was afterwards realized. The
weather was warm and salubrious, with a gentle breeze from
04 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
the north-west. We had advanced about half a mile, when
the roar of the Moose and its tributaries, leaping down the
mountain's declivity, broke upon our ear.
"In the vicinity of these streams tlie eye is greeted with
many pleasing cascades. We had proceeded about a mile up
the ascent, when we came into a mist, which, as we advanced,
grew into a shower of rain, that continued the whole day.
Twice we held council whether to proceed or abandon the
pursuit; but, on being assured the wind was north-west,
which we had been led to doubt in consequence of the
reigning storm, we pushed on.
" We had now ascended to the colder regions, which very
sharply reproved me for my imprudence in the morning :
for, though I had taken thick clothing, the weather was so
warm when we started, I concluded to travel thinly clad.
Nor could we at the time define the sudden changes of weather
from fair to foul, together with the duration of the storm ;
and, what was the most singular phenomenon of all, while we
were enshrouded in fog, and drenched to the skin in rain, we
could look back to the spot from which we had started, and,
far around as the eye could see, behold beautiful sunshine as
ever lighted up the face of the earth ; houses dry ; yellow
fields of corn waving in the western breeze, and rivers spark-
ling in beams of light. This was at first a mystery ; but
solved by recurring to a few simple principles. We are in-
formed by philosophers that certain great natural conductors
of electricity disturb the clouds and tend to produce rain, as
proof of which the Andes are cited, in some parts of which
it rains almost constantly. It is a fact, too, that when two
clouds of difierent temperature meet, the one colder than the
other, rain is produced. It is further a fact, that vapor,
passing from a warmer to a colder region, will be condensed
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 65
and fall in drops. There is vapor in the atmosphere ordi-
narily, and at the time of which ^ye are writing it must have
been increased in consequence of the exceedingly warm
weather and the heated state of the earth's surface. Borne
rapidly forward by the breeze, in its ascent to pass the mount,
it met the embrace of a colder atmosphere. This and the
other causes cited, no doubt, had conspired to give us a
thorouo;h drenchinor.
'' The majority of our number, to avoid cold and wind, had
determined to go around a mile out of the way to ascend on
the eastern side, against which we protested, till courtesy
dictated we should yield, then making a minority report that
they little understood the character of the mountains, the
right of which experience proved too sadly ; for a part of the
way was so steep, we were obliged, by the aid of shrubs, to
draw ourselves up by our hands. We then retraced and
travelled on till we arrived above the growth, which begins
heavy at the base, gradually declining in size and height to
a shrub, from this to a moss, and all beyond is naked rock.
' " We had thought to reach the summit that night, but the
sun was now not more than half an hour high, and we were
obliged to travel back to the growth, where we erected a kind
of Indian camp, covered with boughs and moss, to serve us
for shelter. We then prepared to make a fire, when to our
astonishment our guide had but six matches, and those he had
carried in the wet all day. By means of an old spike, he
had already struck the fourth, which failed to ignite. I then
warned him of his folly, of the misery he had brought upon
us, and in desperation told him, outright, if he missed the
others, I was resolved to kill him on the spot.
" A more deplorable situation cannot well be imagined.
Night had almost approached. We could not find our way
6*
66 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
off the mount. If we attempted it we must be dashed to
pieces over some tremendous crag. At an elevation of five
thousand feet, cold and wet, with clouds above and below, in
the midst of rain, and an atmosphere like the last days of
December ; if we went back we must die, if we staid where
we were we must freeze to death.
" We then summoned all our prudence, succeeded in
getting some dry wood, by divesting a dead tree of its wet
outside, with a hatchet, and our guide ordering us, five in
number, to sit down in a ring to break ofi" the wind, taking
oflF his hat and placing in it some birch which we had fortu-
nately taken for buckets, struck his fifth match, which also
failed. The sixth took, and firing the birch we added the
wood, when he began to be alarmed for his hat, which we
withheld from him till it was nearly burned to a scrap. We
then cut some fir-trees, which kept us a good fire, and we got
partially dry. A longer night I never experienced, and I
never wish to again. Our guides by this time had become
chagrined and almost inexorable, the one having lost his hat,
and the other his tobacco, which threw him into such a fever,
he openly said he would return in the morning, and never
visit that mountain again. * * * One of our party com-
plained in the night that a flea had bitten him, and asked how
he supposed he came there. He tauntingly replied, ' Just such
a fool as we were — came up to look off! ' His sanguine tem-
per was now irritated to the pitch which bordered on wilful
absurdity. He pronounced a curse upon the little roof that
had sheltered us through the inclement night, and carried it
into execution next day by setting fire to it on our return.
'' Not ten rods from our camp there was a mountain ravine,
a steep of two or three hundred feet, and it was terrible to
stand upon the brink, and see the clouds beneath you, pass
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 67
through like winged messengers of the storm. Ere morning
it cleared away ; the stars shone out, the moon reflected on the
hills, dawn threw forth his gray twilight from the east,
' shadow, nursed by night,' began to retire from the moun-
tain's brow, we resumed our march, and reached the summit
in time to see the sun rise.
" Strange majesty ! You stand upon that flinty cap, with
feelings that you are not of this earth. Exalted to the third
heavens, you seem almost in the very presence of Deity.
Looking down on the habitations of men, the soul reels with
th^ giddy height of so vast an elevation. The brain grows
wild at the awful prospect. Ten thousand columns, supporting
as it were the very heavens, spring up and compose one great
family. To the east the ocean stretches along two or three
hundi^ed miles, like a vast white wall, —
' The glorious mirror, where the Almighty's form
Glasses itself in tempest.'
'•Apollo's showery bed, out of which he appears to rise,
encircled in rainbow, dawning upon that colossal statue, and
frmging the hills with his golden rays.
' What grandeur, Jefferson ! thy lofty head
O'erlooking sea, and lake, and hiU, and Tfilds ;
The day-god lores to drive from ocean bed
His heavenTvard chariot to give thee his smiles '
"The western view is bounded by the Green Mountain
chain, traversing the whole length of Vermont.
" Within these limits the eye sweeps over every variety of
natural scenery. Mountains dim in the distance; hills
diminished to knolls ; and houses but as bushels. All the
68 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
creations of man are but as the works of the feeble insect
Lakes of sunniest "svaters, among which we noticed the
Pequot, where, a hundred years ago, that fierce and warlike
tribe, under the chieftain Paugus, was broken by the brave
Captain Lovell and his Spartan band, when in full encounter
the red man shrieked the defying death-shout, and where the
crimson tide of life ebbed forth in sacrifice for our infant
settlement. The story, the battle-ground, its horrors, the
sufiering, all come up before you, as you stand proudly over-
looking it from that towering cliff. Beneath your feet start
out the rivers Moose, Peabody, Ammonoosuc and Saco. To
the north you trace the Androscoggin almost to its source ;
while to the south, Mount Washington, with all its incidents
and features, — the Notch, the Slide, the fated Willey
family, — springs up to crown these natural wonders. But
this were a twice-told story; its history has been written,
and the many visitants to the spot would make its repetition
stale.
'' It would seem that nature had chosen for this stupendous
mass her poorest material, and reared it to heaven to astonish
and edify mankind. We discovered a single piece of felspar,
the rest being nothing but the coarsest gray rock.
'' On its top is a pond of considerable extent, which, Caspian-
like, has no visible outlet ; with water cold as ice and clear
as crystal. In it you behold no living thing. The ea'gle is
the only bird of heaven that sees himself reflected in its
bosom. We drank of it several times, and if it is not the
Castalian spring, and we were not impelled by classic thirst,
but the cravings of nature, to taste its waters, we venture to
say it is as beautiful as satisfying to the thirsty.
" I have never ' looked on Ida with a Trojan's eye,' seen
'the eagles fly on Parnassus,' the eternal glaciers of 'the
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 69
joyous Alps,' visited Athos, Olympus, Etna, or Atlas ; but I
believe we have mountains, for natural sublimity, as worthy of
song, cascades as beautiful, cataracts as awful, and lakes as
glorious, as any the Old World can boast. I have seen Mount
Jefferson, than which no more wild or beautiful majesty
exists in nature.
'' The way to this eminence is toilsome and strange ; huge
recesses beneath, the fit abodes of spirits of hate and demons
of despair. You stand upon the dizzy verge, and at the gaze the
heart recoils with dread. Around are scattered rocks of a
thousand tons, tumbled down by frosts or some great natural
causes ; high above project bold, ragged and impending
cHffs, threatening your approach, as if ready to grind you to
powder.
'' Chiselling our names in the adamant of this everlasting
monument, and taking a last survey of the sublime prospect,
we left, silent, filled with reverence, at having 'looked on
nature in her loftier mood.' "
Bounding Ejlkenny on the west is the town of Jefferson,
granted to one John Goffe, in the year 1T65, under the name
of Dartmouth. It is quite hilly; but the gently-rising
slopes are cultivated to their tops, producing large crops of
wheat, rye, barley and oats. The higher hills afford excel-
lent grazing land, pasturing immense flocks of cattle and
sheep. AVe know not a more beautiful pastoral scene than
that which presents itself to one making the northern circuit
of the mountains, as he ascends Cherry Mountain. Before
him in all its loveliness is the town of Jefferson. Flourishing
fields of grain are waving upon all the green slopes. Here
and there, in the secluded valleys, or sheltered by overhanging
cliffs, are snug farm-houses, amid the scores of out-houses ;
and scattered amid all, and giving life to the scene, are the
70 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
"cattle upon a thousand hills." Mount Plinj, in the
eastern part of this town, and Cherry Mountain, if further
from the higher peaks of the White Mountains, would be
considered quite high elevations. John's river and Israel's
river water the town. Two brothers, John and Israel
Glines, who hunted beaver and other animals on these rivers
previous to the settlement of any part of the country, gave
their names to these streams.
Colonel Joseph Whipple, one of the most widely-known
men in New Hampshire in his day, was one of the earliest
settlers. He was an extensive land-holder, owning most of
the valuable land north of the mountains. More thoroughly
versed in the ways of the world than his poorer neighbors,
his influence became almost absolute in this region. He,
however, never abused his position and power. The early
inhabitants invariabjy speak of him as a father to them. He
made a ready market for all the region, always purchasing
whatever they had to sell. His annual visits to Portsmouth
were regarded by the inhabitants with almost as much interest
as the arrival of the yearly vessel by the first inhabitants of
Greenland. " They have one bright epoch ; for it is a happy
time, when the ice is loosed from the rocky coast, and they
can expect the arrival of the vessel which alone reaches
their solitude. Often deceived by the floating iceberg,
forming itself in mockery into the shape of their friendly
visitant ; at length they see the white sails, the towering
masts, the blessed guest riding at anchor in the bay. By
this vessel their wants are supplied. The active and pious
housewife busies herself in arranginor the stores of the en-
suing twelvemonth. There are letters, too, from friends and
from relations, and books, and newspapers ; and,- banished as
they are, they live again in Denmark, in ' their father-land.' "
i
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 71
He was very exact in his dealings with his neighbors, paying
and receiving pay to the smallest fraction. He always
brought with him, on his return from Portsmouth, a large bag
of half cents to make change with.
A good story is told illustrating his fatherly care and solici-
tude for his own townsmen. During a time of great scarcity
of provision, he refused to sell grain to any save his own
neighbors, fearful lest there should not be enough to supply
even them. A party of men from Bartlett, driven to extrem-
ities, at last set out for Colonel Whipple's, a distance of
thirty miles. It was in the depth of winter, and the journey
at that season through the mountains was perilous in the"
extreme. Hunger nerved them on, and they at length arrived
with their hand-sleds at the colonel's. Very unexpectedly
he refused to sell them any grain. All their pleading could
extort from him not a bushel. Determined not to return
without it, they at last agreed upon a stratagem by which to
obtain it. Apparently very much disappointed, they set out
on their return. When out of sight, they stopped and waited'
for the night. Under cover of the darkness, they stole back
to the corn-house, which they had previously examined, and,
getting under the floor, bored a hole up through with an
auger, and through it filled their sacks. The colonel after-
wards learned the fact, but, sensible that he had been wrong
in refusing them, never mentioned it to them.
During the war of the revolution, he was captured by the
Indians in his own house. The party acted under the author-
ity of the English, and the object was to get information in
respect to the designs of the Americans in this region. Sus-
pecting nothing, he admitted them as usual to his house, and
was a prisoner before he imagined their intention^ With his
usual presence of mind he made no objection to accompany
72 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
them : but said they must wait a short time for him to get
ready. He immediately commenced active preparations, and
contrived in the bustle to tell his housekeeper, Mrs. Hight, to
take up the attention of the Indians with some articles of
curious mechanism which he had, while he should escape
from the window. So occupied were they in examining the
curiosities, that they suffered him to go into his bedroom to
change his clothes, as he told them, and through the window
of this he fled. He went directly to a meadow, where he had
men to work, and, ordering each man to seize a stake from the
fence and shoulder it as he would a gun, soon presented
himself again to the Indians, who were already in search
of him. Seeing him in the distance, as they supposed at
the head of a large company of armed men, they hastily
seized what plunder they could lay hands on, and fled. A
Mr. Gotham, residing in the family, chanced to be coming
towards the house at the time the Indians arrested Colonel
Whipple, but saw them in time to make good his escape,
yrhey fired upon him, as he was crossing the river upon a log,
but did not hit him.
These lands were almost entirely valueless, at the time of
their first settlement, for want of communication with the
seaboard. A wide circuit must be made, either to the right
or left, before one could get to the lower settlement. Hunters
on foot did cross the huge barrier ; but it was with much
peril. It was for a long time a matter of much anxiety to
the authorities of the state, how a way should be opened
through this almost impassable chain, and many were the
inducements held out to the fortunate discoverer of a pass.
Nash, one of those solitary hunters of whom we have before
spoken, clmibing a tree one day on Cherry Mountain in
search of a moose, discovered, as he thought, the long-sought
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN UISTORY. 73
pass. Steering with a hunter's cunning for the opening he
had seen, he soon struck the Saco river, a mere brook, which
he followed down until he was stopped at what is now known
as the gate of the Notch. Here the huge rocks came so near
together as to prevent his following further the stream. Per-
ceiving, however, that, with a proper amount of labor and
expense, a road could be opened at the pQJnt, he scaled the
clijQTs and continued on to Portsmouth, where he made known
his discovery to Governor Wentworth. The wary governor,
fearful lest there might be deception in the matter, told him
if he would get a horse down through the gorge from Jeffer-
son, and bring it to him, he would grant him the tract of
land now known as Nash and Sawyer's Location. This was
somewhat a difficult operation, -and to accomplish it he
admitted one Sawyer, a brother hunter, to a share in his
trade. By means of ropes they succeeded in getting the
horse over the projecting cliff, and carried him to the gov-
ernor. Sawyer, as they lowered the old horse from the last
projection upon the southern side, drank the last drop of rum
from his junk bottle, and breaking it upon the rock, called it
Sawyer's Rock, which name it has since borne.
It was many years before a carriage-road was cut through
the gorge ; but the inhabitants profited much by the dis-
covery. A horse, with much labor, pulling him up and
steadying him down with ropes, could be got over the obstruct-
ing rocks. Two long poles fastened together by two bars in
the centre, somewhat similar to the modern trucks, without
wheels, the smaller ends serving as thills in which to harness
the horse, and the larger ends resting on the ground, was
their only carriage. This could easily be carried over the
rocks, and the delay of three or four hours thus caused by
lifting over the horse and load was trifling, compared with
74 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
the long journeys they were formerly compelled to make
around the extremities of the long range. The first articles
carried over the pass show the great articles of trade in
those days. One Titus Brown carried down to Portsmouth
a barrel of tobacco, which he had raised in Lancaster, and
the rudely-finished road was so crooked at that time, that
between the Pass and Bartlett, but a few miles, they crossed
the Saco river thirty-two times. The first article carried up
through the Notch was a barrel of rum. A company in
Portland had ofiered it to any one who would get it up through.
This, Captain Rosebrook succeeded in doing with some
assistance, though it was nearly empty, "through the polite-
ness of those who helped to manage the affair," says Mr.
Crawford, when he got it home.
Some years after its ' discovery, a road was attempted
through the pass. The magnitude of this undertaking can
be estimated only by remembering that the committee, ap-
pointed to locate the road, deliberated for many days on
which side of the river to attempt it. The cutting through
this mountain of rock would be a gigantic operation, even at
the present time, with all the improvements and inventions.
How much more difficult fifty years ago !
Hart's Location, bounding Nash and Sawyer's on the
south, was granted to one Thomas Chadbourne, by Governor
Wentworth, for services rendered by him during the Indian
wars. It was afterwards sold to Richard Hart for fifteen
hundred dollars, and the present name affixed to it.
J
CHAPTER V.
EARLY SETTLERS.
EARLY SETTLE3IEKT OF TUE LOCATIONS. — CAPT. ROSEBROOK. — MONADNUC. —
MRS. ROSEBROOK. SCARCITY OF SALT. GREAT CROPS, REMOVAL FROM
MONADXUC. SETTLEMENT AT GUILDHALL. MRS. ROSEBROOK'S ADVEN-
TURE -WITH THE INDIANS. — REMOVAL TO NASH AND SAWYER's LOCATION.
DIFFICULTY OF FINDING HIS HOUSE IN THE DRIFTS OP SNOW. "WANT OP
PROVISIONS. HIS ENERGY. CANCER. HIS DEATH. ETHAN ALLEN
CRAWFORD, THE GIANT OF THE MOUNTAINS. HIS EARLY YOUTH. HARD-
SHIPS. THE TREACHEROUS SERVANT.
The storj of the earlj settlement of these locations, and
the history of the few settlers, is very interesting. The hard-
ships they endured, and the obstacles they overcame, in mak-
ing themselves a home among these
" mountains reared aloft to mock
The Storm's career, the lightning' shock,' '
are almost incredible. These hills have truly been
" The nursery of giant men.
Whose deeds have linked -with every glen.
And every hill, and every stream,
The romance of some -yvarrior-dream ! "
The first permanent settler in Nash and Sawyer's Location
— if not the first, the first deserving of particular notice —
was Capt. Eleazer Rosebrook. He was a native of Massa-
70 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
cbusetts, born, in the year 1747, in the town of Grafton.
He married, when twenty-five, a Miss Hannah Hanes, and
soon after left his native state for the wilds of New Hamp-
shire. He first stopped at Lancaster, making, however, but
a short stop, and then settled more permanently in Monad-
nuc, whiclf is now Colebrook, full thirty miles from any
inhabitant, and with no path or road to their cabin but " spot-
ted trees." Here life in the woods commenced in earnest.
Frequently, when Mr. Rosebrook had been absent to some of
his " neighbors," Mrs. Rosebrook would fasten her eldest
child, a little girl, in their cabin, and, with an infant in her
arms, set out in search of their cow, which roamed at large
through the thick woods. Over logs and sticks, through
bushes and brakes, now in some secluded glen, and now
stumbling over rocks and wading rivers, she would wander,
listening attentively for the " bell," until at last, as the moon
came up over the trees, the '' old cow" would be discovered.
Getting her home as best she could through the darkness,
she would milk with the infant still in her arms, and, after
securing the cow for the ^ight, retire to rest.
The forest so closely surrounding them abounded in wild
game, easily taken, and easily prepared for food. This, in-
deed, furnished them with a great part of their living, fresh
in summer, but dried and smoked in winter. Salt was very
scarce. At one time Capt. Rosebrook was compelled to go
on foot to Haverhill, a distance of eighty miles, the whole
distance through the trackless wilderness, following down the
Connecticut river as his guide, in order to procure this arti-
cle. One bushel he there obtained, and, shouldering it,
trudged back over the same rude path to his home. So much
did some families suffer for want of salt, that their children's
necks swelled badly, and brought on disease in the neck,
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 77
cured only by visiting the salt water, and applying the skin
of salt fish to the affected part.
Small patches of land were cultivated, as the land could be
cleared and seed procured wherewith to plant it. The first
experiment in raising potatoes equalled, almost, the extrava-
gant western stories of ''great crops," so rife a few years
since. One Major Whitcomb, after travelling fifty miles,
procured one bushel of potatoes, which, by cutting, he made
to plant four hundred hills. These he watched with all the
interest of Crusoe over his grains of barley, and so well did
they do, that he harvested, from his small sowing, one hun-
dred bushels of good potatoes.
Capt. Rosebrook did not remain long, however, at Monad-
nuc. Like a true pioneer, he was restless and ever on the
move. He did not remain long enough here to build his
" two-story wooden palace," but was soon on the look-out for
some new home. Guildhall, Vermont, less distant from the
settlements, and containing more inhabitants, he chose as his
new place of residence, and thither removed his family. He
had joined the Revolutionary army as a volunteer, shortly
before leaving Monadnuc, and was, consequently, absent from
his family most of the time. Hardy, fearless, and wary,
he was of great value to the American forces in the irreg-
ular warfare which they were compelled to carry on with
the Indians, under English officers, on the Canadian frontier.
Many are the "hair-breadth" escapes he made by his supe-
rior cunning.
Guildhall was quite a rendezvous for the Indians, and his
own cabin, some distance from any other, was theii' favorite
place of resort when he himself was gone, and no one at home
but his wife and little daughters. She, however, had no fear
of them, and freely admitted all that came to her house.
7*
78 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTOIIY.
Generally they were very quiet, and, after spending the night,
would leave peaceably. Their excursions to the settlements
were for the purpose of exchanging their furs for trinkets and
^'uncupy," or spirit, which they carried in bladders taken
from the moose and dried. At one time, however, near the
close of the war, and shortly before the return of Capt. Rose-
brook to his family, many Indians, loaded heavily with
uncupy, came suddenly to his cabin, near night. Mrs.
Rosebrook, as usual, kindly received them, and gave them
permission to remain all night. Soon after entering, howev-
er, she perceived that they had drank too freely, and feared
they might become noisy and unmanageable. Determined to
be mistress of her own house, and knowing a bold bearing was
her only safety, in case they became um'uly, when, late in the
evening, they became boisterous and rude, she ordered the
whole tribe out of doors. At first they thought to resist,
])utj intimidated by her boldness, they left her as she com-
manded them. One squaw, only, sought to test the courage
and strength of Mrs. Rosebrook, and she was soon dragged by
the hair to the door, and pitched out among her companions.
As the brave woman was fastening the door, after expelling
her savage intruders, a tomahawk, thrown by the same
squaw, came so near her as to cut off the wooden latch on
which rested her hand. The same squaw, however, be it
said to her credit, returned the next day, and asked Mrs.
Rosebrook" s forgiveness, and promised better for the future.
Capt. Rosebrook remained long enough at Guildhall to
become the possessor of a fine farm. The broad, beautiful
interval lands of the Connecticut, so easy to cultivate, and
yielding so abundantly, it would have been hard for any
other man to have abandoned for the wilderness. Still rest-
less, and fond of the excitement attendant upon the life of a
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 79
pioneer, in the year 1792 lie sold his farm in Guildhall, and
moved into Nash and Sawyer's Location. Excepting the
Crawfords, twelve miles further down among the mountains,
in the Notch Valley, he had no neighbors nearer than twenty
miles. A log house had been erected here a few years pre-
vious, but had been abandoned, and into this he moved his
family. It was in the depth of winter ; the snow was piled up
in huge drifts, and the entrance to his little hut could with
difficulty be found, even after the monster pile liad been dis-
covered, beneath which his cabin lay buried. After much
shovelling he succeeded in finding the door and making an
entrance for his shivering family. They had brought but
little provision with them, and were dependent, almost en-
tirely, upon the game he could capture, and what could be
obtained from their neighbors. Often were the children sent,
through the snow, to the Crawfords', a distance, as we have
said, of twelve miles, to obtain such articles as were abso-
lutely necessary to the sustenance of the family. From these
long errands, through the snow and cold, frequently they
would be unable to reach home until a late hour of the night.
But Capt. Rosebrook, by his energy and industry, soon put
an entirely different aspect upon this secluded spot. On
what is called the Giant Grave, he built a large two-story house,
very convenient. He also built, within a few years, large
barns, stable, sheds, and a saw -mill and grist-mill. His farm
was very productive, to which he added, yearly, many broad
acres redeemed from the surrounding forest. His saw-mill,
he says, was of great profit to him ; but his grist-mill was so
far from his house, and " the mice injured the bolt so much,
that it was difficult to keep it in repair."
Hardly, however, had Capt. Rosebrook become comfortably
situated, when a cancer broke out upon his lip, which, after
80 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
a few years of intense suffering, caused his death. Patiently
he bore his suffering, and though unused, heretofore, to the
confinement of a sick-room, murmured not, and at length
died, peacefully, September 27th, 1817. In all respects Mr.
Rosebrook was a remarkable man, large in stature, athletic,
and very strong. His whole life was one of daring adventure.
He loved the rugged scenes of pioneer life, and was never
more in his element than while scaling the mountain or trap-
ping the wolf or bear. There are men enough who prefer
the city, and cling fondly around their native village ; but he
could never endure the restraints connected with our larger
settlements — the restraints of artificial life ; but freely, his
arms and broad chest all bare, must breathe the strong, pure
air, as it came rushing along through those mountain gorges.
Ethan Allen Crawford, the " Giant of the hills," was the
heir to Capt. Rosebrook's property, and continued, after his
death, to reside on the same place, to which he had removed,
a few years before, to take care of Capt. Rosebrook and his
wife. The Crawfords have been so intimately connected
with the mountains, that to omit them would be to pass over
entirely the history of these valleys. Ethan Crawford was
nearly as well known to all the earlier visitors, and of almost
as much interest, as Mount Washington itself Many a lady,
we presume, will recollect, distinctly, the kind assistance he
lent them in descending those rugged heights — nay, even at
times taking them, when very weary, on his broad shoulders,
and carrying them down those precipitous paths, as tenderly
as a father carries his infant child. We think now of one
who said he carried her more than half way down Mount
Washington on his shoulder. Ethan Crawford was born at
Guildhall, Vermont, but his parents early removed to the
mountains, and located themselves in Hart's Location, on tho
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 81
very spot where now stands the Old Crawford House. Here
he spent his youth until he was nineteen years old. Many
stories of his early life, which he was accustomed to relate,
show the hardships which the early settlers of that region
were compelled to endure. "Until I was nearly thirteen
years old I never had a hat, a mitten, or a pair of shoes
of my own. Many times I have chopped wood through the
day, and at night my hands, which had been bare, would
swell and pain me so badly, that my mother would have to
get up and poultice them, before I could sleep. Eut so ac-
customed did I become to the cold, that I could harness and
unharness horses, in the coldest winter weather, with my
head, hands and feet, nearly bare." Tough, hearty and cour-
ageous were all these mountaineers. Their training was one
long process of toughening and daring. Says Mr. Crawford,
•' Shortly after my parents came into this place, they went,
one Sabbath day, to Bartlett, expecting to return the next
day, and left myself and next older brother in the care of a
hired man, with provisions enough prepared to last until their
return. Soon after they had gone, the hired man picked up
whatever was valuable, that he could carry, and, taking all
the victuals cooked in the house, left us for the woods. The
day wore away without our thinking much about it ; but, as
night came on, we grew very hungry and a little frightened.
We had a cow, but neither of us were large enough to milk her.
Compelled, however, to satisfy our hunger in some way, we,
at last, got some potatoes and roasted them in the ashes.
On these we made our supper. After eating, as it grew
darker and darker, and we got tired of talking and wishing
our parents would return, we went to bed, and, hugging our-
selves up together as close as possible, went to sleep." On
the return of the parents on Monday, the father immediately
82 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
set out in pursuit of the man, and, just as he was leaving the
woods at Eranconia, caught him, and after taking the stolen
goods, severely flogged him and let him go. What men
brought up under such circumstances would not have
CHAPTER VI.
ETHAN A. CRAWFORD.
MR. CR-iWFORD's IMPRESSIVE MANNER OF STORY-TELLING. — THE BURNINQ
OF HIS BUILDINGS. HIS ENERGY IN REPAIRING HIS LOSSES. HIS LAB0R3
AS A GUIDE ON TO THE MOUNTAINS. THE DIFFICULTY FORMERLY OP
REACHING THE MOUNTAINS. STORY ILLUSTRATING DIFFICULTY OF TRAV-
ELLING IN THOSE DAYS. PRESENT MODES OF REACHING MOUNTAINS.
FIRST ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAINS. PARTY OP STUDENTS FROM FRYBURG.
EASE OF ASCENDING NOW. FIRST BRIDLE-PATH. ETHAN'S SEVERE
"WOUND. — GRANNY STALBARD. — CARRIAGE-ROAD FROM GLEN HOUSE.
LOVE OP HUNTING. — THE GRAY CAT. — ADVENTURES WITH THEM. — LAS-
SOS AND CAPTURES ONE WITH BIRCH POLES. WOLVES. — HIS ANNOYANCE
AND DISCOMFITURE BY THEM. BEAR STORIES. CATCHING THE CUB.
CAPTURE OF A FULL-GROWN BEAR.
Mr. Crawford's many adventures among these mountains
should be heard from his own lips to be fully appreciated.
As told by another they lose the advantage of his own giant
figure, emphatic gesticulations, and the quaint original style
in which his ideas were expressed. Says his wife, " It was
always a rule with him to make short stories, and not go a
great way round to effect a small thing."
Very soon after the death of Mr. Rosebrook, the ample
buildings which he had reared, and in which Mr. Crawford
was residing at the time, were burned to the ground. It was
a severe loss to Mr. Crawford, and one from which he never
fully recovered. He was already in debt, and the loss of so
84 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
much property seemed almost to shut out the hope of his
ever extricating himself. But his courage did not forsake
him, and, with his characteristic energy, he commenced to
repair his losses. His family was immediately moved into a
small log house, with but one door, one common apartment,
no windows, and a chimney raised only to the chamber floor.
This he repaired by degrees, as he had leisure, and by the
next winter had a comfortable house.
His time was much occupied w^ith travellers, many of whom
had already begun to visit the mountains. His services were
almost constantly in demand by those wishing to ascend to
the summit of the mountains. At present it is hardly pos-
sible to realize the difficulties, not only of ascending, but even
of reaching, the mountains themselves. When cumbersome,
unwieldy " stages " only lumbered out of Concord and Dover,
and Portland, giving aches and pains and bruisings innu-
merable to the weary occupant, a journey to the White
Mountains was no trivial affair ; and these could but carry
him to Fryburg or Conway, some thirty miles from his des-
tination, while the journey must be finished on horseback.
Slow, slow was the rate of travel in those days, and fortunate
was the traveller if he reached the Crawfords in four or six
days.
A curious incident, illustrating this point, as well as some
of the other earlier New England customs, is related by Mrs.
Crawford. On a time, '' when they were to have a training,
an officer went fifty miles to Lower Coos, as it was called, or
Haverhill now, for two quarts of spirit to treat his com-
pany with. As they had no carriages in those days, neither
had they a road suitable for one, he took his horse, put on a
saddle, and then a pair of large saddle-bags, filled with pro-
visions for the journey, and a jug for the spirit, and provender
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 85
for his horse, and, as they travelled at that time, it took him
three or four days to j^erform this journey. When on his
way home, by some unknown accident, the cork got loose, and
the bottle was emptied of its contents into the saddle-bags.
The liquor would have been saved had not the oats soaked up
a part of it ; he, however, saved enough to treat his company
with."
At present the traveller has but to take his seat in a
"spacious and well- ventilated railroad-car, elegant in its
appointments as a parlor," enjoy all the pleasures ascribed
by the poet to •' Ridmg on a rail," —
" Singing through the forests,
Rattling over ridges.
Shooting under arches.
Rumbling over bridges ;
Whizzing through the mountains,
Buzzing o'er the vHe," —
and presently he is set down at the very base of the moun-
tains themselves on the eastern side. If he prefer to approach
them from the south and west, the best modern coaches will
bear him over good roads to the very centre of the wide clus-
ter of mountains. Having reached the base of the mountains,
the ascent, though now difficult and fatiguing, is not to be
compared to the wearisome and perilous undertakings of the
first visitors. Mr. Crawford gives the account of two young
men, who undertook the ascent so late as 1818, with his
father, the elder Crawford, as their guide. " They rode to
the top of the Notch, then sent back their carriage, and pro-
ceeded to the woods. They had much difficulty in managing
to g3t through ; they, however, proceeded slowly, sometimes
crawling under a thicket of trees, sometimes over logs and
windfalls, until they arrived to where they could walk on the
86 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
top of trees. This may seem strange, but it is nevertheless
true. They never reached the summit, but managed to get
along on some of the hills.
" As the day was drawing to a close, they returned to the
woods, in order to pass the night, and erected a shelter for
their protection. A dense fog arose, and during the night it
rained. In the morning, owing to the darkness, they could
not tell the best way to proceed ; but took the surest way by
following the Ammonoosuc river, and came to my house.
These men wore fine and costly garments into the woods ;
but when they returned their clothes were torn and much
injured by the bushes; and their hats looked as if they had
been through a beggar's press. They were much exposed all
night, without food or fire."
And often have I heard my father and eldest brother relate
the perils of their first asqgnt, made in company with a party
of students from Fryburg Academy. They went up from
the east side of the mountain, as, in fact, most travellers did
in those days. Many of the party, entirely overcome by the
fatigue and difiiculty of proceeding, fainted, and were obliged
to return. Such, however, as did succeed, will probably
never forget the undertaking. For the first few miles the
difiiculties were no more than one would encounter in any
forest. But, as they ascended, the trees, changed from the
maple and beech to the spruce and hemlock, became much
smaller in size, at the same time thicker, while their way
was much more broken and rough. At length, from forcing
their way through the thick growth, they were compelled to
stoop and go under the scraggy tops of the rough, stiff, hem-
locks, and spruces, sending out their long limbs and interlac-
ing them so firmly as to form an impassable barrier. At each
ascending step they were forced to stoop still lower, until
i
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 87
from right angles they almost touched the ground with their
faces. When they could proceed no further in this way, they
forced their way up through the matted tops of the trees
and walked on the low, stunted vegetation as upon moss.
In this manner they passed the limits of vegetation and reached
the summit. From their account I should judge a sorrier-
looking set of men never descended Mount Washington.
Their clothes were not only almost torn from their backs, but
their bodies were lacerated sorely, by their perilous march
through the dwarfish growth.
At present the ascent, though rough, is much easier.
Visitors can start from any of the houses around the moun-
tains, and ascend with nothing in the shape of stumps or trees
to obstruct their way. Bridle-paths have been cut from all
these points to the top of the mountains, so that even now
females can ascend them on horseback. The first bridle-path
was made by Ethan Crawford in 1821. He says of it : "In
March I hired Esquire Stuart to come with his compass, and
go into the woods, and see if there could not be a better and
more practicable way found to ascend the mountains. He
spent three days in making search, and returned well satisfied
that he had found the best way ; for the road which we had
heretofore travelled is an uneven one, going up a hill and
then down again, and this in so many successions, that it
made it tiresome to those who were not accustomed to this
kind of journeying ; and the way which we had now found
is over a comparative level surface for nearly seven miles,
folloAving the source of the Ammonoosuc, or Ompomponoosuc,
until we arrived at the foot of Mount Washington, and then
taking a ridge or spur of the hill.
" In the summer, just before haying, I hired men and went
with them to cut this path, and while in the woods, at
88 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
the distance of three miles from home, as I was standing
on an old log chopping, with my axe raised, the log broke,
and I came down with such force that it struck my right
ankle, and glanced, nearly cutting my heel-cord off; I bled
freely, and so much so that I was unable to stand or go. The
men that were with me took the cloths we had our dinner
wrapped in, and tied up my wound as well as they could, and
then began to contrive means to get me out of the woods.
They cut a round pole, and with their frocks which they
wore tied me in underneath it, and thought they could carry
me in like manner as we bring dead bears through the woods ;
but in this way I could not ride. They then let me down,
and took turns in carrying me on their backs, until we got
out of the woods. There happened to be at my house, then,
Mrs. Stalbard, who is known in our country, and bore the
name of Granny Stalbard, whose head was whitened with
more than eighty years. She was an old doctress woman ;
one of the first female settlers in Jefferson, and she had
learned from the Indians the virtues of roots and herbs,
and the various ways in which they could be made useful.
Now the old lady said it was best to examine this wound,
and have it properly dressed up ; but, as it had stopped
bleeding, I told her I thought it was better to let it remain as
it then was ; but she, thinking she was the elder and knew
better, unwrapped it, and it soon set bleeding afresh, and it
was with difficulty she now stopped it. She, however, went
into the field, plucked some young clover-leaves, pounded them
in a mortar, and placed them on my wounds : this stopped
the blood so suddenly that it caused me to faint." This is
the history of the first bridle-path.
But these bridle-paths are but " notched trees " compared
•with what energy, enterprise and capital, have already com-
5^^^^'
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTOEY. 8-9
menced. At an expense of one hundred thousand dollars, a
carriage-road is being constructed to the very summit of the
mountain. " The length of the road from the Glen House to
the top will be eight miles. It is to be fifteen feet wide,
clear of all obstructions, INIcAdamized in the best manner,
and the average grade will be a rise of one foot to eight and
a half, with level spots at various points of interest, where
travellers may rest and examine the scenery. AVherever the
road is on the side of declivities, strong walls will be erected,
the road itself inclining inwards. The carriages are to be
peculiarly constructed. They will be broad and low, and so
arranged with screws that, whether going up or down, the
body of the coach will be on a perfect level. A fine hotel is
to be erected on the summit by the company, with an exten-
sive carriage-road around it, so that visitors may at their ease
see every aspect of nature below."
But to return to Mr. Crawford. Almost constantly occu-
pied as he was in summer with his visitors and farm, he yet
found much time for hunting, which was his favorite recrea-
tion. His winters were almost entirely devoted to this, and
generally quite profitably. The mountains were then teeming
with wild animals ; very valuable for their meat and skin.
By his great strength, cunning, and courage, no animal
could escape him.
" His rifle flashed,
The grim bear hushed his savage growl ;
In blood and foam the panther gnashed
His fangs, with dying howl ;
The fleet deer ceased its flying bound,
Its snarling wolf-foe bit the ground.
And, with its moaning cry,
The beaver sank beneath the wound
Its pond-built Venice by."
8*
90 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN niSTORY.
Alone and unarmed he would attack the fiercest animal of
the forest ; — the ^ray cat, or Siberian lynx, such a terror
to the hunter, even when in company and armed with his
rifle. This animal differs considerably from the wild-cat,
with which it is often confounded; resembling more in its
appearance and disposition the caracal of Asia. It is perfectly
untamable, and lives entirely upon the smaller animais of
the forest. "At one time," Mr. Crawford says, " these an-
imals became very bold, making great havoc among our sheep
and geese, and causing us many fears for the safety of our
children. I set many traps for them, baiting them with a
variety of meats, from hens cooked, to chickens alive with
feathers on ; but nothing would tempt them, until I chanced
to try pickled fish. The night after I had baited with this, one
got into the trap. He w^as quite large, and moved the trap some
distance into a clump of bushes, so that in the morning, when
I came to look for him, it was some time before I could find
him. He was lying partly concealed by the bushes, and I
did not see him before I had my foot raised to step on him.
He sprang and I sprang, fortunately far enough to get a
lar^e stick before he could attack me. With this I entered
into an engagement, and it was some time before I was able
to quiet him. I conquered, however, at last, and in triumph
carried him home. He measured more than six feet in length.
In this way I caught six of them."
At another time, as he was passing down through the
Notch with his team, his dog discovered one, but a short dis-
tance from the road, in the top of a tree thirty feet high.
Taking a small hatchet which he had with him, he cut two
birch sticks, which he twisted together, so as to form one
long pole. On one extremity of this he made with another
stick a ring with a slip-noose to it. This he worked up
r
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 91
through the limbs of the tree, and threw over the animal's
head, somewhat as the India]\ lassos the wild horse with his
lariat. Jerking suddenly, as he threw the noose over his
head, he brought the creature down ten feet, when the noose
broke. He fixed another before the lynx could recover from
the shock of the first jerk, and this time brought him to the
ground. The dog instantly sprang upon him, but was soon
glad to cry for quarters, and retreat with his skin nearly torn
from his body. The fellow now became furious ; but, unable
to reach his captor, sprang into the top of a small spruce,
four feet high, and here seemed determined to remain. The
battle now commenced in earnest. By means of the halter,
Mr. Crawford held him firmly in his place, and, with such
sticks as he could readily lay his hand on, commenced beating
him to death. It was a long and exciting struggle, requiring
all his strength to keep him from springing into his face ;
but he delighted in such contests, and by his well-directed
blows at length killed him.
On Cherry Mountain, he chased one into the tops of the
thick trees, and, unwilling to lose it, climbed up, and for a
lono^ time continued the chase amid the branches : runninoj
round upon them almost as easily as the animal itself.
For hours he would amuse the traveller with his adven-
tures in hunting, apparently as unconscious of anything re-
markable as the boy who relates his exploits at a squirrel
hunt. "Wolves he dealt with as others do with a cat and
kittens. Accidentally one day he came across a hollow log
containing a nest full of young wolves. Two of them he
carried home and domesticated, and in time so tamed them
that they were delivered over to his little son to take care of
them. He taught them all the tricks that boys teach dogs,
even making them speak for their food before receiving it.
92 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
But once onlj they offered violence, and that was occasioned
by attempting to remove some bones which one of them had
buried.
With all his skill and courage, they would sometimes, he
was compelled to acknowledge, annoy him exceedingly. His
sheep he even had to sell, to prevent their being all destroyed
by them. One cold December night a whole pack came
suddenly upon his fold. The frightened sheep took ref-
uge under the shed, and hid themselves among his cattle
and horses. Wolves seldom attack these, unless driven to
great extremity by hunger, and did not meddle with them,
but satisfied themselves by digging up the carcases of some
bears, which had been buried behind the barn. Their repast
finished, they sat down upon their haunches directly in front
of the house, and, as if in defiance of the master, commenced
a most dismal howling. The very mountains echoed with
their " lonesome music." The dog was first let out, hoping
he might frighten them off; but the reception they gave him
was soon manifest from his loud cries. They had nearly torn
him in pieces when Mr. Crawford came to his rescue.
Springing out of bed, he went out with nothing on but his
night-dress. The cunning fellows, perceiving their advan-
tage, dropped the dog, and sat "bolt upright" to receive him.
He was fairly beaten ; nothing could move them. Talk as
loud as he could, they would not stir. They waggishly
wagged their heads as he threatened, until at length the chill
night- wind compelled him to retreat, and leave them masters
of the field.
His fund of "bear stories" was almost inexhaustible.
Hardly a week had passed, since he had lived among the
mountains, that he had not had an encounter with one.
Young cubs he would capture and carry home as one would
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 93
a young pig. Driving one as large as a good-sized dog into
a tree one day, he persuaded a young man with him to climb
the tree, and drive him out, while he stood below to keep the
old bear off. The cub, to escape his pursuer, ran out from
the tree into a smaller one close by, where Mr. Crawford
was standing. Keeping the old bear off as best he might,
he shook the tree so hard that down came the young bruin
pounce upon him. He simply remarked that he took good
hold of him, and, tying his handkerchief about his mouth,
carried him home. Such hand-to-hand encounters he fre-
quently had with them, never fearing to match his own
unaided strength with theirs. A very amusing account of
such an engagement we give in his own words :
" Once, going to a celebrated place for bears, I found
a good-sized yearling bear caught in a steel trap by one of
his fore-feet, and he appeared not to have been long there.
He had fastened the grapple to a bunch of roots, and there
was a chain between the grapple and the trap. Here he
was sitting in an humble and ashamed-looking position. I
looked him over, and at length concluded to contrive means
to lead him home. I cut a round stick, ten feet in length,
sufficiently large and stout to lead him with ; then, taking the
throat-latch from the bridle, the stirrup-leather and the
mail-straps from the saddle, I set the horse at liberty, and
managed to get hold of the bear's hind feet ; these I straight-
ened and tied to a tree. I then went up to his head and
secured his mouth, but not so tight but what he could lap
water. While thus engaged, in spite of all my care, he put
out his fore-paw — the one that was at liberty — and placed
it so hard against one of my legs, that I really think, had it
not been for a good strong boot, he would have torn the skin :
but the boot prevented him from tearing my leg. He,
94 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
however, took a piece of mj pantaloons with him ; still, I
would not give up the idea of bringing him home alive. I
then fastened a strap around him, before and behind, and the
stick upon his neck, loosened his feet, and then began to try'
to lead him. Here we had a great struggle to see which was
the stronger, and which should be master ; and he jolayed
his part so well I could do nothing with him. He would turn
upon me and fight me all he possibly could. I now thought
I must kill him ; but as I had never been beaten by a wild
animal, I was unwilling to give up now. He would come to
a tree, and hold on, so that I found I could not lead him. I
again contrived a way to confine him, but with more diffi-
culty than before, as his feet were entirely free, and, being
quick and active with them, I had hard work to get them
again; but, after a while, I made out to. I then tied
his hind and fore feet together, in such a manner that he
could not scratch me ; then placing him on my shoulder, with
one hand hold of his ear, to keep his head from coming too
near mine, in case he wished to make a little closer friendship,
I trudged on ; but he was so heavy and ugly to manage, that
it made me sweat ; and I was obliged to lay him down often
and rest, and whenever I came to water, I would let him lap
it. I made out to get two miles, he all the while growing
worse and worse ; at last he actually turned upon me, and
entered inta an engagement with me, by scratching and
trying to bite, and, after tearing my vest, I concluded I
would once more lay him down — ^'and the way was not easy.
Lifting him up as high as I could, I let him fall, and, the
ground being hard, the breath left his body. Here I left him,
and went home, and sent a man after him."
CHAPTER YII.
THE CRAWFORD FAMILY.
MR. CRAWFORD'S EARLY DEATH. A REMARKABLE MAN. THE CRAWFORD
FAMILY. ABEL CRAWFORD. MRS.- CRAWFORD. HER BRAVERY DURING
THE NIGHT OF THE SLIDES. CRAWFORD HOUSE. DEATH OF MR. STRICK-
LAND ON THE MOUNT.UNS. DANGER OP ASCENDING MOUNTAINS WITHOUT
GUIDE. PARTY OF STUDENTS LOST ON MOUNTAINS. NANCY 'S BROOK.
STORY OF NANCY. SUPERSTITIONS CONNECTED WITH THE SPOT WHERE SHE
WAS FOUND. — OWL STORY. — BEAUTIFUL AURORAL DISPL4.Y AT THE
NOTCH.
Mr. Crawford died young. The exposures and hardships
of his early life had completely shattered his naturally strong
constitution, and he broke down long ere he had reached the
maturity of manhood. He suffered much in his last days
through his bodily ailments and pecuniary embarrassments.
The giant of nearly seven feet, whose feats of strength had
been the wonder and astonishment for many miles around
him, was at length compelled to yield to a foe that he could
not withstand. His great strength was no aid to him in en-
during the intense pain which he suffered, so acute at times,
that he says, '• I have put my hand to the top of my head,
and felt the hair, to know if it did not stand straight on end,
as I could feel it rise, and sometimes would think it would
throw off my hat." Relieved, for brief periods, of this in-
tense pain, he would forget all past suffering, and so great
96 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
was his love for hunting and the mountains, th^t, gun in hand,
he would totter after his game when scarcely able to stand.
We always had a high estimate of Mr. Crawford, as one of
nature's noblemen ; but never more so than since we com-
menced to write the brief story of his adventurous life.
Beneath his rough exterior lay concealed some of the noblest
qualities in the human character. We cannot convey our
idea of him more exactly than in the words of the poet :
"He Tras one
Who would become a throne, or overthrow one.
***** noble
In nature, * * gentle, yet wary ;
Yet for all this, so full of certain passions,
That ifonce stirred or baffled, as he has been,
* * * * there is no fury
In Grecian story like to that which wrings
His vitals with her burning hands."
The whole Crawford family have been remarkable for their
size and strength. Abel Crawford, the father, often styled
the " patriarch of the mountains," at eighty was a stout, ath-
letic man. A walk of five miles to his son Thomas J. Craw-
ford, before breakfasting, at this advanced age, he performed
with the greatest ease. At seventy-five he rode the first
horse on to the top of Mount Washington that ever ascended.
He represented, in the state legislature, the eight voters in
his own location, and the few in Nash and Sawyer's Loca-
tion and Carroll, with much ability, the five or six last years
of his life. We can never forget his appearance not long
before his death. So long had he been accustomed to trav-
ellers during the summer months, that he felt he could not
die without seeing them arrive once more. His venerable
locks, as white as the drifted snow, falling to his very shoul-
■ i
INCIDENTS IN WUITE MOUNTAIN HIST RY. 97
ders, his tall, massive form, as erect as in the prime of his
manhood, he sat supported bj his affectionate daughter, as
eagerly waiting for the coming of his visitors, as the dying
sailor for the sight of his native shores. '' Full of years," he
died on their first arrival.
He was a good-humored man through all his life, and
mingled as much of the playful with the sober as any you
will ever see. After his days of toil in the field and on the
mountain were over, and he was confined to his house through
age, he spent much time in rehearsing amusing and interest-
ing anecdotes to all who were disposed to listen to him, and
from his visitors there were many such. Thus he greatly
endeared himself to his guests, and through succeeding time
not a few of them will rise up and say,
*' I remember well a man, a "white-haired man.
Pithy of speech, and merry when he would,
A genial optimist, who daily drew.
From what he saw, his quaint moralities.
Kindly he held communion, though so old.
With me, a dreaming boy, and taught me much
That books tell not, and I shall ne'er forget."
Mrs. Crawford was the fitting companion of so hardy a man.
She was the mother of nine children, eight sons and one
daughter. Erastus, the eldest son, was six feet and six
inches in height, strong, and very compactly made. Ethan
Allen, as we have before remarked, was near seven feet in
height ; and no son, we believe, was less than six feet tall.
During the night of the dreadful storm, when my brother's
family was destroyed, Mrs. Crawford was alone with her
smaller children, in their house. The water rose at a fear-
ful rate, bearing along on its current sheep and cattle, and
hay and grain which were stacked in the fields. Before she
9
98 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
could get her children to the upper story of the house, the
water was twenty-two inches deep on the lower floor, putting
out her fire, and washing the ashes about the room. After
securing her children, finding that the immense mass of stufi",
brought down by the water, was collecting against the house,
and thus endangering it, she took her clothes-pole, and, during
the continuation of that violent tempest, stood and pushed
away the logs and timbers as they came rushing against the
dwelling.
For years the Crawfords were the only ones to entertain
travellers to the mountains. The house at the head of the
Notch, formerly known as the " Crawford House," was
built by Ethan and his father, and was kept, for many years,
by one of the sons. All the bridle-paths, on the western side
of the mountains, were cut by them, and for many years they
were the only guides who dared conduct visitors to the sum-
mit. A melancholy incident is connected with the ' ' Craw-
ford House" bridle-paths, showing the folly of attempting to
ascend those rugged and broken heights without a guide.
An Englishman, by the name of Frederick Strickland, came
to the Crawford House, then kept by T. J. Crawford, Oct.
18th, 1840. The next day he left the house, in company
with another Englishman and a guide, to ascend the moun-
tains. When they reached Mount Pleasant, the guide and
the other Englishman, on account of the cold, and snow on
the mountain, proposed to return, and strongly advised Mr.
Strickland to do the same. In defiance of all this, however,
he persisted, and would go on. He delivered up his horse to
the guide, and proceeded, on foot, toward the summit of
Mount Washington, intending to come down Mr. Fabyan's
bridle-path.
The guide and the other gentleman returned to Mr. Craw-
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY 99
ford's. In the mean time Mr. Crawford sent the baggage of
Mr. Strickhind to Mr. Fabjan's, with word that its owner
might be expected to come down from the mountain and stay
with him that night. But, as he did not come that night,
Fabyan thought he had returned to Mr. Crawford's. The next
morning, however, Mr. Crawford chancing to pass, inquired
for him. This excited alarm, and they both started in pursuit
of him. They found his track on the mountains, and followed
that until night, making no discovery of anything but some
of his clothes.
The next day they started, with others added, and found
him dead. He had precipitated himself over some rough
descent in his path, and lay at its base a lifeless corpse. He
was the eldest son of Sir George Strickland, an eminent
English baronet, recently member of Parliament for the county
of York. He was about thirty-five years of age, and heir to
large estates.
At the time of his death, he had been in this country but
X few months. He was a graduate of Cambridge University,
in England, and was a cultivated scholar.
The frightful condition of those lost on these mountains,
during one of those sudden storms, which so frequently come
upon them, cannot be better described than in the words of
one who experienced all its horrors. A party of young men
had rashly undertaken the ascent alone, quite early in the
season. After wandering all day amid the precipices and
defiles, night and a misty, foggy storm at last came on, com-
pletely bewildering them.
" The slanting remains of sunlight faded into deep shadow.
The light troops of a vast army of dense mists, sweeping low
over our heads, came shutting ofi" the last light, and, even as
we looked in wonder, the wonder faded into fear as the
100 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
massive body of the cloudy host charged upon us. It waa a
cold, thick fog — the coldest and solidest I ever felt ; appar-
ently filled, indeed, with little particles of snow, which smote
upon our summer clothing and chilled us through and
through in an instant. Thicker and thicker it poured past, in
interminable volumes, taking our remaining strength away
with the warmth of our bodies, and our courage with our
strength. We thought, in this perplexity, to follow the ridge
on one of whose summits we were, downwards, and to grope
our way out to the valley of the Saco, by following the fall of
the ravines. We could not see twenty feet. The darkness,
as the sun fell, momently increased. Our little local recol-
lections having been frightened away by the mist, — thoroughly
befogged in a double sense, — we had quite forgotten which
way the ridge sloped downwards. Having followed it some
distance in one direction, and coming to an ascent, we con-
cluded we were going wrong, and went the other way. Un-
dertaking, this time, to be persevering, we kept on until we
got fairly away from the neighborhood of our resting-place,
followed one or two cross ridges, which offered a fallacious pros-
pect of leading us somewhither, and, just as night fell, were
thoroughly lost ; colder, wearier, hungrier, and more scared
than ever. We could not now see a step ; and, moreover, had
been, for an hour, stumbling and even falling from the weak-
ness of excessive fatigue. But we dared not sit or lie down,
lest the numbing sleep of the frost-cloud should take our lives
away on its white, cold wings. So we even betook ourselves
to quadrupedal progression. We crawled cautiously along,
lowering each hand and knee with a separate care, to avoid
cuts and scratches, and feeling out forward into the gloom,
which seemed to press close upon our eyelids, so dense and
palpable was it. We spoke to each other continually, lest we
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 101
should become separated. Over and over again I put forth
my hand for the next step, and, upon quietly dropping it,
found nothing under it. That was a sign that I was within
six inches of some precipice. Then I called a halt, and cau-
tiously advanced one foot over the brink. If I could reach a
footmg below, we crawled down ; if not, we coasted along the
edge, or tried another course. Over how many hundred feet
of sheer descent I may have hung by the slippery hold of one
hand and one knee, — over what dark and empty depths,
floored with edged and pitiless ledges, teeth of primeval stone,
I put out helpless hand or foot into the ghostly gloom, — I
know not, nor do I care to know ; but the helplessness of
the unseen gesture yet burdens my memory. It has often
haunted my rest. For years, if any slight disorder superin-
duced a dreaming condition, I was in dreams at uitervals
driven by cold mists or viewless winds through interminable
chasms walking up to heaven, where I saw that seeking ges-
ture repeated to infinity. Over every ledge would then be put
forth a helpless hand, pointing to me, clutching at the thick
mist, holding wide-spread fingers stretched stiffly out, sweeping
slowly hither and thither, vibrating up and down in frantic
indecision ; indicating di-eadful variations upon the solitary
theme of utter and desperate loss and helplessness.
'' So we wandered, until it became evident, as, indeed, it
would have been before, if we ftad reasoned deliberately, that
we should shortly become absolutely unable even to crawl,
and should then, of necessity, fall over a crag, or stiffen and
die. We, therefore, felt about for a soft rock ; and having
found one which, if not actually soft, was, at least, rather
smoother than most, and, moreover, a little sheltered from the
wmd-driven frost-fog, we slept and watched alternately, in
miserable five or ten minute snatches, until some time in the
9*
102 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
latter part of the night, spending the time allotted to watch-
ing in thrashing the arms about, kicking, stamping, and the
other doleful manoeuvres which are useful in fio^htino; against
severe cold and overpowering drowsiness. At last after an in-
definite quantity — it might, so far as any perception of the
passage of time was concerned, have been a week — of wretch-
ed dozing and waking, the last detachment of the dreadful fog
scudded over us. The moon and stars shone out, most glo-
rious and welcome to behold. We drained the remainder of
our brandy, summoned the remainder of our strength, and re-
sumed our last plan of getting out of the mountains, by follow-
ing the fall of the water-courses. We climbed, with many falls
and much danger, all stiff and chilled as we were, hardly retain-
ing any sensation beyond our elbows and knees, and articulating
only with difficulty, down into a ravine, along whose lowest
rift we stumbled, sometimes in shadow and sometimes in the
uncertain gleam of the moonlight, but free, at least, from the
deadly cold and impenetrable darkness of the frost-fog."
Nancy's Brook and Nancy's Bridge are so familiar to all
who have ever visited the mountains, or know anything of
their history, that we could not, if we would, omit the inci-
dent which gave them this name.
The stream itself is about half a mile below the Mt. Crawford
House, and comes rushing down from unknown heights in the
dark forest above. "And any one, who has the least capa-
bility of appreciating scenes of wildness and desolation, will
be amply repaid for following, for a mile, the course of the
stream, among the crags, as it comes leaping in indescribable
clearness and beauty down the mountain. During the lapse
of ages, this stream has cut a channel, in some places thirty
feet deep, through the rock, and rushes, foaming on its way,
with perpendicular walls on each side. The rocks around
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 103
are -worn into most grotesque forms, and the eye is never
weary in gazing upon the cascades and deep transparent
basins. In one of its wildest portions the stream is spanned
by a rustic structure called Nancy's Bridge."
Nancy was a servant-girl in the family of Col. Whipple,
of whom we have before spoken in our account of JeJQferson.
A man, also in the employ of the colonel, had won the heart
of the poor girl, and between them there was an engagement
of marriage.
It was the intention of the two, or at least of Nancy, and
she supposed of the man from what he had promised her, to
accompany Col. Whipple on his usual fall visit to Portsmouth,
and there be married. But a few days previous to the time
she supposed they were to start, she gave her money, which
the colonel had paid her for her services, to her lover for safe-
keeping until their arrival at Portsmouth, and had gone to
Lancaster, a distance of nine miles, to make some purchases
necessary for the journey.
While she was away at Lancaster, suspecting no evil,
the colonel and her lover set out upon their journey. Whether
Col. Whipple was aware of her intention of accompanying
him we cannot say. If he was not, no blame, of course, can
be attached to him, but, if he was, he was equally guilty with
his treacherous companion. But leaving the guilt, it is im-
possible to describe the grief and disappointment of the poor
girl when she learned their departure without her. She had
not left Lancaster when it was made known to her, but she
determined at once to follow them. She immediately left
Lancaster for Jefferson. At Jefferson the men in Col. Whip-
ple's family endeavored to dissuade her from so perilous an
undertaking, urging the many diflSculties she would have to
encounter, and that the colonel had been gone since early in
104 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
the morning ; but nothing could detain her. She tied up a
small bundle of clothing, and set out, already wet and fatigued
by her long walk from Lancaster. The snow was deep, no
path but spotted trees, and night had already set in, when
she again started. Since sunset, the snow had commenced
falling, and a bitter north-west wind di^ove it in blinding
masses against the almost frozen wanderer. Her object was
to reach the Notch, a distance of thirty miles, where Col.
Whipple had a camp, and would undoubtedly stop the night.
Could she reach there before they had started in the morning
her object would be accomplished. This hope buoying her
up, she travelled on through the live-long night, and arrived
at the camp not long after the colonel and his man had left,
for the &e they had kindled had not yet gone out.
Completely exhausted and worn out, as she must have been,
by fatigue and hunger, not having eaten anything since she
left Jefferson, she still determined to persevere and overtake
them if possible. Accordingly, after warming herself, she
again set out. But it was too much ; her already overtaxed
strength gave out but a short distance after she had left the
camp. In crossing the little stream, since called Nancy's
brook, her clothes had become wet, and near the top of the
opposite bank, she sat down at the foot of an aged tree tc
rest. Here she was found, not many hours after, her head
resting upon her staff, frozen to death.
" Cold 's the sno-w at my head.
And cold 's the snow at my feet ;
And the finger of death 's at my eyes.
Closing them to sleep.
Let none tell my father.
Or my mother so dear ;
I '11 meet them both in heaven,
At the spring-time of the year."
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 105
When Nancy left Col. Whipple's, in Jefferson, the men who
had tried to dissuade her from starting, thinking she would
not go far in so blustering a night, but would soon return, did
not think of following her. As the evening wore away, and
she did not return, they grew anxious lest she should perish
in the snow, and set out in pursuit of her. After expecting,
during the whole night, their next step would bring them upon
her, they at last reached the camp, where the fire she had
just left was yet burning. Resting here but a few moments,
they hurried on, and found her just across the brook as we
have described.
The treacherous lover survived her not long, but died in
a few years, a raging maniac, in a mad-house. A writer of
fiction has made the moans and wailings of the poor lover to
be heard even now at times around the death-place of the
deceived Nancy. In the still night the mountains surround-
ing echo the bitter lamentations. A most amusing anecdote
may illustrate all the noises of this description usually heard
around the Notch. The above writer may have passed
through a similar scene, and if so, he may readily be pardoned
for his ghostly proclivities.
A peculiar, superstitious man, some years ago, passing up
through the Notch to Lancaster from his residence in Bart-
lett, camped out in the woods, not far from his path. He
was unused to camping in the woods, and in the outset felt
some beatings of heart. He made the best of it, however,
and laid down. He gained courage, and thought he should
pass the night like a hero. He verged towards sleeping. It
almost came to him. He was in a transition state, half-sleep-
ing and half- waking! But, ah ! what was that ? A dismal
sound was in his ears. What was it ? Where was it ? He
rose up on his elbow, looked and listened. Now it comes
106 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
again, right from over his head, a peal or a screech that
pierced him through and through. Ah ! indeed, thought he,
for he dare not speak, what can that be ? Now he trembled,
he sweat, his head swam, his teeth chattered. He tried to
think of something he should do or say. But, 0 ! there it is
again. Screech, screech, screech ! It seemed as if the very
hembcks would shake ofif their leaves over his head. Now
he was whist as the night-dew, still as he could possibly be.
just breathing out from under his blanket, hoping the spirit
would go ; but no, there it is again. 0, dear, what a screech !
It comes again and again. It seems as if all the wizards in
the universe were there. Now he rises up, shuddering though
he did from his crown down to his very toes. For a moment
he sat hesitating, one shudder following another, till he
spake out, " You wizard, begone ! I tell you, begone ! Dis-
perse yourself! I charge you, begone ! Leave me ! " He
kept on in this way till finally he succeeded. The owl left,
and after a while he lay down quietly under his blanket and
slept.
A singular auroral display occurred a few years since at
the mountains, causing almost as much wonder and astonish-
ment to the beholders as the first appearance of the Aurora
Borealis to the people of New England in 1719. A corre-
spondent of one of the Boston papers, who witnessed the whole
scene, has finely described it.
""White Mountain Notch, September, 1851.
" Meteoric phenomena of such a wonderful kind were wit-
nessed here last Saturday evening, that they seemed to those
travelling in that region, who were fortiinate enough to be-
hold them, to demand some public notice, and I trust you
will concur with us in our opinion, although no description,
much less my own, can do justice to this singularly brilliant,
'-* %
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 107
and even appalling, display of celestial fire-works. During
the whole of the evening we observed the ordinary tranquil
aurora, illuminating a portion of the northern hemisphere,
and shining with a mild, steady, white light, but remarked
no variation of color or form ; and it was not till about half-
past eleven that the avant courier of the coming exhibition
appeared in the shape of a luminous band, stretching suddenly
across the sky, oscillating with a tremulous motion. A gen-
tleman from Philadelphia had proposed walking down into the
Notch to view it by moonlight ; and as we drew near it, the
twin Titans guarding the entrance stood boldly forth against a
sky of unusual clearness, while the mist collected in the val-
ley, lit up by the moon and stars, resembled a sleeping lake.
" Having advanced quite a distance into the Notch, we re-
clined upon an elevated rock to contemplate the rugged gran-
deur of the cliffs as they rose in the clear, soft light, when
our eyes were greeted by the above-mentioned phenomenon.
As we lay flat on our backs, on a sudden, from the upper
edge of the shining segment in the north, while the lower
part grew dark, shot forth innumerable rays, like jets of liquid
light, which preserved their form a moment, appearing like a
resplendent diadem of solid diamond on the Egyptian brow
of night. Oblong spots of a brilliant light now sprang into
view in various quarters, which, becoming gradually elongated,
burst at the top, scattering masses of light in all directions.
Soon broad, shining columns emerged from different points in
the horizon, moving slowly at first, then darting up with hi-
credible swiftness, suddenly vanishing and reappearing of
increased brilliancy, eclipsing the light of the planets and
moon — now chasing each other in lightning race around the
sky, and finally enlarging, after infinite changes of form, so
as to occupy the whole heavens. A universal, undulating
108 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
motion, similar to the swell of the sea, or the motion of a
■\vind-3wept field of grain, but more rapid than the dart of the
frightened serpent, now proved the precursor of increased
beauty, and of the most truly amazing phenomena. A small
pitchy cloud, of irregular form, appears at the zenith, which,
as it were, kindles and emits tongues of flame of the most
variegated and brilliant hues — green, purple, pink, golden
and violet, and streams of fire, shooting in a sinuous course,
as when
' Hell's standard-bearer,
from the glittering staff unfurled
The imperial ensign, which, full-nigh advanced
Shone like a meteor, streaming to the ■wind,
With gems and golden lustre rich emblazed ; '
while, all over the heavens, cloud-like masses, flushed with the
richest tints, like the glancing light on the polished steel,
evolve in the twinkling of an eye countless forms of beauty,
as, following the chieftain's ensign,
* All in a moment through t^e gloom were seen
Ten thousand banners rising in the air,
With orient colors waving.'
And sulphurous flames, seeming to issue from the mountain,
darted from behind, resembling the bursting forth of volcanic
fires. Such a scene, calculated to excite the noblest emotions,
I never expect to behold again ; it was worth a voyage across
the Atlantic. It might be compared to a vast canopy, or
tent, suspended from the zenith, inwrought with gold and
silver, rubies and emeralds, and shaken by a mighty wind.
And it would not require a vivid imagination, for one, shut in
as we were by eternal rocks, with the sky kindling over our
heads, to see above him the fretted roof of Pandemonium set
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 109
with '■ crests, fed with naphtha and asphaltus,' and around,
gigantic forms reposing on their couches ; or to think ' her
stores were opened, and this firmament,' spouting cataracts
of fire ; ' impendent horrors threatening insidious fall.'
'^Nearly all the colors of the spectrum were exhibited in
dazzling succession, green being especially prominent, which
our landlord told us, has never been seen here before, though
red is quite common. Nothing was wanting except the hiss-
ing and crackling noises sometimes heard here, and frequent
in high northern latitudes : the solemn stillness, however,
added, I thought, to the sublimity of the scene.
" After the lapse of about half an hour, the varied colors
gradually faded, and a dim, white light alone remained in
the northern sky. The Aurora Borealis of Lapland, as de-
scribed by Maupertuis and others, ' are very similar to this
display. The weather at the mountains for two or three days
has been the warmest of the season ; the thermometer ranging
ninety to ninety-eight degrees."
10
CHAPTER VIII.
THE SLIDES.
THE EFFECT OP THE TURNPIKE UPON TRAVEL THROUGH THE NOTCH. — COuS
TEAMSTERS. — PLEASURE TRAVEL. WANT OF PUBLIC HOUSES. THE FIRST
HOUSE BUILT AT THE NOTCH. — MOVING OP MR. WILLEY TO THE NOTCH. —
THE FIRST WINTER AFTER HIS REMOVAL. — THE FIRST SLIDE IN JUNE. —
THE FEARS OF 3tfR. WILLEY AND HIS FAMILY. — THE GREAT STORM. — THE
GREAT DROUGHT PREVIOUS TO THE STORM. THEORY OP SLIDES. — THE
FIRST SIGNS OF THE STORM. — THE GATHERING OF THE CLOUDS ABOUT THE
MOUNTAINS AS SEEN FROM CONWAY. — NIGHT OF THE DISASTER. — VERY
PECULIAR APPEARANCE OP THE MOUNTAINS ABOUT MIDNIGHT. RAPID RISE
OP THE SACO IN CONWAY. — FIRST DISCOVERY OP SLIDES. — FIRST NEWS
FROM THE NOTCH. THE SHRILL VOICE IN THE DARKNESS. THE CON-
FIRMATION OF THE FIRST REPORT. THE MANNER OF COMMUNICATING THE
NEWS. THE TRUMPET AT MIDNIGHT. SETTING OUT FOR THE NOTCH.
CONDITION OP THE ROADS. — THE APPEARANCE OP THE SACO VALLEY.
ARRIVAL AT THE " WILLEY HOUSE." SEARCH FOR THE BODIES. FIND-
ING OF SOME OP THE BODIES. BURIAL. THE PRAYER AT THE GRAVE. — ■
FINDING OP OTHER BODIES. — OXEN. — THE FIRST NIGHT SPENT IN THB
HOUSE SUCCEEDING THE STORM.
0 loneliest, wildest, most forsaken spot !
Here in the valley's bwest depth embowered,
Reposed in humblest guise one poor, rude cot,
Beneath its eaves the wild geranium flowered ;
On the few sharers of its lowly lot
Plenty and Peace and Love their blessings showered.
But Danger came and rattled at its door ;
Silence and Safety, the old warders fled.
i
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. Ill J
And one returned to that lone place no more ;
A midnight darkness o'er the sky was spread,
Lightning and storm, with flash and gusty roar,
Loosened, and on its fearful errand sped
The rocky avalanche, crashing, strong and blind.
While Terror stalked before, and Death was close behind."
The Tenth Turnpike in New Hampshire, sajs an old
Gazetteer, was incorporated in the year 1803, December
27th, to extend from the west line of Bartlett through the
Notch of the White Hills, a distance of twenty miles. It oc-
cupied the site of a laid-out but never well-finished county
road, which had been projected years before. The effects of
the labors of the incorporated company were soon seen in the
increasing travel. In a short time from its opening it became
one of the best paying turnpikes in northern New Hampshire.
The only outlet to the large portion of country north of the
White Mountains, beginning then to be settled, its numerous
advantages were not long in being appreciated. Prior to the
extension of the northern railroads, and the opening of the
numerous markets along their Imes, its demand, as an outlet
to the Coos, was niuch more strongly felt than at present*
The original cost of the road was forty thousand dollars, its
repairs were many and expensive, and yet its dividends were
large, and its stock always good.
Portland, the nearest and most accessible of the seaboard
towns, was, in those days, the great market for all this part
of New Hampshire. Well can we remember the long train
of Coos teams which used to formerly pass through Conway.
In winter, more particularly, we have seen lines of teams half
a mile in length ; the tough, scrubby, Canadian horses har-
nessed to " pungs," well loaded down with pork, cheese, butter
and lard, the drivers rivalling almost the modern locomotiye
112 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
and its more eleo;ant train of carriaojes in noise and bluster.
Hardjj resolute men were those earlj settlers of the Coos ;
" Rough,
But generous and braye and kind.'
Besides this Coos travel, compelled, as it were, to pass
through this gateway of the mountains, the mountains them-
selves had already begun to attract much attention. Visitors
to them, though few in comparison with the large numbers
which now resort thither, journeyed mostly in private car-
riages, and thus gave to their travel an importance far beyond
what at the present time the same number would command.
The want of public houses on the road, especially through
the mountains, to accommodate the increasing travel, was
sorely felt. Trom the elder Crawford's to the old Rosebrook
place, where recently stood the Mount Washington House, a
distance of thirteen miles, there was no public house, indeed no
occupied house. To appreciate fully the necessity there was
for these places of shelter, one should pass north through the
Notch in the depth of winter. The roads are then buried
beneath the snow, piled up in drifts to a great depth. This
is continually blown about by the wind so as to render im-
possible a well-beaten path. The traveller has, frequently,
shovel in hand, to work his way through the mountains, the
cold northern winds, concentrated by their passage through
the Notch, blowing directly in his face, almost instantly
penetrating and benumbing him.
To open, then, a public house somewhere on this distance,
it was seen, would be not only a work of profit, but of kind-
ness. For this purpose a house had been erected, some years
previous to the time of which we write, by a Mr. Henry Hill,
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 113
and is yet standing, being ftimiliarly known as the " Willey
House." It was ke^^t by Mr. Hill and others as a public
house for several years, but was at length abandoned, and, at
the time of my brother's moving into it, had been untenanted
for several months. It was in the fall of the year 1825 that
he first moved his family into this house. It had been
roughly used by the mountain storms and winds, and needed
much repairing. The fall was accordingly spent in making
it comfortable for the winter. He enlarged the stable, and
made such other improvements as time would allow, to make
it a comfortable shelter for man and beast. But, with all his
most earnest labors, he was but imperfectly prepared for the
intense cold and storms of those mountain winters. Still he
was hailed as a benefactor, and often were he and his shelter
greeted with as much warmth by the traveller in those moun-i
tain passes, as the monks of St. Bernard by the wanderer^
upon the Alps.
The winter passed, nothing unusual occurring, beyond the
arrival and departure of his various company. In the spring
further improvements were projected and commenced in his
buildings, with the design of making them worthy of the in-
creasing patronage. Travellers, who had been his guests,
often gave us flattering accounts of his success, and not the
least apprehension was felt for his safety. The first thing that
particularly diversified his history and awakened his fears, was
the slide which took place in June following the spring just
referred to.
In the afternoon of one dull, misty day during this month,
he and his wife were sitting by a window, that looked out to
the north and west. Before them rose in all its grandeur
the mountain which is called by their name, '^ Willey Moun-
tain." The clouds and mists almost entirely covered the
10*
114 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
mountain ; but, as they cleared up and the surface came out
to view, thej saw distinctly a large mass of earth beginning
to move. It passed slowly on, increasing in volume and
extent, stopping occasionally, as it were to take breath, and
at last rushed into the valley beneath. This was quickly
followed by another, less in magnitude and extent. These
slides took place near the house, and did no injury beyond
greatly exciting their fears.
They were startled by them, and took counsel from their
fears at first to leave the place. It is said, and is probably
correct, that my brother, under the first panic, was even
about getting ready his carriage to carry his family to some
place of greater safety. He felt for the moment that he
must leave.
But still it is certain he did not leave the place. He
grew more calm in a short time, and, not long after the period
referred to, became almost entirely unapprehensive of danger.
I never saw him after this event, but was told repeatedly that
he apprehended no danger to himself or family from what had
passed. In conversation with a person on the subject, in
reply to a query as to his feelings in relation to the recent
slides, he said, " Such an event, we know, has not happened
here for a very long time past, and another of the kind is not
likely to occur for an equally long time to come. Taking
things past in this view, then," said he, " I am not afraid."
This was certainly fair reasoning on the matter, and such as we
midit all well make under like circumstances, thouo;h now
we can see, in the light of all that is past, how little it availed
in respect to the calamity that awaited him so soon. His
unsuspicious calmness did not protect him from danger. It
rather presaged evil than good. It was the dreadful felt
stillness that often, perhaps always, precedes the earthquake.
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. ^-115
Now we perceive that the events we have written above had a
dreadful significance in them.
In August, succeeding the June we have just referred to,
a storm took place in the region of the White Mountains,
raging in and about the Notch with peculiar violence. It
was memorable for its strength and for its disastrous effects.
It can never be forgotten while a single individual shall
exist that lived anywhere near the place in which it trans-
pired, or any care be taken to transmit the account of it to
succeeding times. I lived at North Conway at the time
of it, and can, therefore, best present what I have to say
from that point.
Previous to the time in which this storm took place, there
had been a long and heavy drought. The earth, under a
fervid sun, had dried to an unusual depth. This prepared the
way for the surface of it to be operated on more powerfully
by any quick and copious rain. The soil, dried deep and;
powdered somewhat, would slide easier under the pressure of ;
any accumulating waters, especially if the roots of plants that '
traversed it had been made tender by the long-continued heat
that had been upon them. In this, perhaps, we have as
good a theory of slides as any that can be made.
As the month verged towards its closing, signs of rain
began to appear. Clouds gathered on the sky, and though
they would disperse in a short time, quickly they would
gather again. They continued to do this a number of days
in succession, every day assuming more permanence than
they did the preceding one. At length they became so con-
densed, that they gave rain, small in quantity to be sure, but
some — a signal of what was to follow. In this way, things
went on till the storm came on in its strength.
The great disaster, in the destruction of my brother and
IIG INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
his whole family, consisting of his wife and five children,
together with two hired men, took place on the night of the
twenty-eighth of this month, August. That day came on
Monday, and the disaster took place some time during the
night of that day. I was away from home on an exchange
the Sabbath previous, and remember well all the circum-
stances and events of the gathering storm. On Monday, as I
came home, I recollect I was hindered by the rain, occasion-
ally falling in showers ; so that, though I had but compara-
tively a few miles to come, I did not reach home till near
sunset.
On my way, as I came up from the south toward my
residence, I had the most favorable opportunity to note the
gathering clouds. Their movements were all before me, and
I had only to look and see them. I had often seen storms
gather in the regions of those compacted and elevated moun-
tains, but never before with such grandeur and awfulness.
The clouds were not so rapid in motion as I had seen before,
but their volume and blackness made up, and more than made
up, for the want of speed. Their comparative slow movement,
indeed, added greatly to the sublimity of their appearance.
They reminded one of some heavy armed legions moving
slowly and steadily to battle. As they sailed up the giant
outline of mountain range extending from Chicorua peak
northward for miles, till you come to the White Mountains,
and then, pressing upon them, covering them fold after fold
with their dark solemn drapery, I could but think of the
march of Napoleon, and the measured tread of his infantry,
loaded heavily with armor, moving on to some warlike
encounter.
They were, in all truth, the very significant portents of
a most affecting scene of destruction. As we anticipated
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 117
things in the sequel transpired. At the close of that day,
■when the darkness was just coming on, it began to rain ; and
such a rain I never knew before. The way for it had been
prepared, and now it came on in its fury. I was not con-
scious of all of it, especially the latter part. Being somewhat
fatigued, I retired early and slept soundly. As it appeared
afterwards, I slept calmly while others, not very far off, my
kindred, even, were suffering and dying. Not long after
midnight, I was waked suddenly by the slamming of a large
door, on the barn, that was ajar and playing in the wind.
I arose- quickly and went out. As I passed round the corner
of the house to go to the barn, which stood north, in the
direction of the White Mountains, my eyes fell directly
upon them. I saw something about them unusual. It was
all clear overhead, not a cloud on the sky, and the moon
shone brightly. The storm had passed off. On the White
Mountains there lay, close down upon them, a large, dark cov-
ering of clouds. It appeared like a pall thrown over sugar-
loaves of unequal heights.^ Save this, all above and about
them was clear and cloudless.
Out of them were seen, at short intervals, vivid light-
nings. I heard no thunder ; I saw only the lightnings. They
continued till I had done my work, and returned to the house.
These were unusual as we have said; but whatever there might
be in them, peculiar in character, we may consider them now
the after scene of the storm, just passed, and as impending
the spot where death had just ceased its revel.
I had remained in the house but a short time when word
came to my door that the intervales were being entirely
covered with water, and that they must immediately be cleared
of the cattle and horses that were upon them. As we came
up from the intervales, having accomplished the object, we
118 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
could but take notice of the marked effects of the storm on
the White Mountains. There was plainly visible to the eye
the terrible devastations it had produced. All the portions
of them facing the south indicated clearly the desolating in-
fluences of the rains that had fallen so copiously on their
summits and sides. I never saw such in all my life ; and I
had looked on those mountains, upon an average, scores of
times every week for years. It was judged that more de-
struction of trees, and more displacing of rocks and earth, were
made on the declivities of the mountain facing our post of
observai;ion, on that terrible night, than had been made since
the country was settled. And this was but a part of the
destruction produced. On other sides of the mountains, quite
round the whole circumference, were gorges and grooves,
made deep even on the hard mountain surface, to show that
the destroyer had been there.
We were so occupied on Tuesday, the day succeeding the
storm, with what was directly before us, — the heavy flood
sweeping over the fields so near at hand, and the sight of
wasting on the mountains looming up before us, — that we
could hardly think of anything else.
On Wednesday early, perhaps on Tuesday, suggestions
were made a few times in my hearing respecting things about
the Notch ; starting the inquiry how the storm might pos-
sibly affect my brother and his family. They were but sug-
gestions, however, indicating no particular anxiety in relation
to their safety, as there was certainly none with myself or
any of his kindred near me. As yet we had heard nothing
from him up nearly to the close of Wednesday.
Near the close of that day our suspicions were, for the
first time, really aroused as to the safety of my brother's
family. Dr. Chadbourne, our physician, on his return from
INCIDENTS IN ^VmTE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 119
Bartlett, whither he had been on a visit to his patients, in-
formed us that he had heard the whole family were destroyed.
He had seen at Bartlett a man, who had just come down
through the Notch, who had given him the information. So
entirely unsuspicious had we been of any danger to them, and
so unprepared for the reception of such tidings, that for the
moment we were overcome.
Recovering somewhat from the stunning ejQfects of such sad
tidings, we went immediately to a sister's, who lived near.
She had heard the same reports ; but both of us, arguing
rather from our hopes than the facts, were inclined to dis-
believe the story. To satisfy ourselves, however, further on
the subject, it was thought best to go at once to my father's,
who lived two miles north of us, near Bartlett. Mr. Thomp-
son, my sister's husband, and myself, accordingly set out.
We found him having received the news as we had, from
the same source, and about the same in amount of informa-
tion. He was entirely unimpressed with the correctness of
the report, and immediately calmed our fears. He said he
knew the Notch well, which was the fact, all its bearings and
relations, and though he ha'd heard what he had, still he did
not think, from the best judgment he could make, that the
family were destroyed. Though they were not in their late
place of residence, he thought they were alive in some retreat,
whither they had fled from the ruins of the storm. The idea
that the family were all destroyed was too much for him to
entertain. He thought that, notwithstanding all which had
been reported, and all the danger that must have surrounded
them that dreadful night, still they were among the living.
The calmness and reasoning of my father almost entirely
reassui'ed and convinced us that the Rumors must be entirely
120 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
incorrect. We sat some time conversing, and the evening
was considerably advanced before we left for home.
It was quite dark, and very still. Our minds still occu-
pied with the recent storm, and its terrible ravages, we were
suddenly startled by a sharp, shrill voice, coming apparently
from the river below us on the right, and saying, as we
thought, " They are there." Breaking so suddenly upon the
still night, it was like the shrill cry of some bird of prey
piercing the darkness. It was many minutes ere we could
collect ourselves to come to any satisfactory conclusion con-
cerning the voice. Being nearly opposite Mrs. Lovejoy's,
the mother of my brother's wife, we at length concluded that
the family had had additional tidings from the Notch, and that
one of the sisters was informing some one on our side of the
river of the safety of the family at the Notch, and that they
were all in their late home.
As we learned afterwards, we were correct in the conclusion
at which we arrived ; but not in the words of the speaker.
It was " They are not there," instead of '• They are there."
Much relieved by the contradictions of the first report by
later news, as we supposed, we hastened home. Though we
had seen on every hand the terrible ravages of the storm, —
the mountains scathed and torn by the torrents, and the waters
running in floods at our feet, before and behind us on all sides
wasting destruction, — yet, so anxious were we that it should
not be true, and so strangely forgetful of the awful danger
which must have threatened our brother, that we retired to
our beds almost entirely relieved of our anxiety.
But that delusive impression did not remain long. It did
not continue through the night. The dawn of another day
had scarcely come, when renewed tidings from the Notch
made it quite certain that my brother and his family were
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 121
destroyed. The manner in which these tidings were trans-
mitted to us, at a certain point of their progress, it may not
be uninteresting here to present. It shows how in all respects
the whole scene of the Notch disaster was filled up with the
most thrilling and soul-stirring incidents.
As I have said, my father was comparatively little moved
under the first heavy tidings that came from the Notch. He
reasoned them all down with his usual tact and calmness, and
made them the occasion of little serious alarm to himself and
others. But he must be corrected. He had come to a
wrong conclusion, and a messenger was already on his way
that would correct him. This messenger arrived in the
adjoining neighborhood of my father about midnight, to which
we have already referred, when that shrill female voice was
heard in the darkness. He was there stopped by the' Saco,
swollen still with the efiects of the recent storm. But he
carried important tidings which must be communicated. He
was sent for this very purpose. So, to get ears to hear them,
he stood on the river's brink, the nearest possible point to my
father's, and sounded a trumpet. It was a shrill blast, and
startled all my father's neighborhood from their repose.
The startled sleepers, soon gathered on the river's bank,
learned the sad tidings, but t(# truly confirming the reports
of the previous evening ; and then started most of them on
their way to the Notch.
I did not hear that blast of the trumpet, — or those blasts,
for the first was often repeated,— but those that did, say they
never heard anything so impressive and solemn. At any
time they would have been startling, pealing as they did
through the darkness of midnight. But, under the circum-
stances before us, they were peculiarly impressive. The sad
tidings of the evening before, though not generally credited,
11
122 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
had yet left a deep impression and sadness on the minds of
all in my father's neighborhood. \Yith these feelings they
had retired. Whether sleeping or waking, dim images must
have been floating through their minds, from the evening's
conversation, when suddenly they were roused by repeated
trumpet-blasts, raising echoes from mountains in almost every
direction.
" Bursting suddenly, it calls and flies,
At breathless intervals, along the skies,
As if some viewless sentinel were there,
Whose challenge peals at midnight through the air."
My brother, who heard these trumpet-calls, has often said
he never heard anything to be compared with them for
what was awe-inspiring and even dreadful in its character.
The confirmed reports soon reached all the relatives of the
destroyed family. By daylight the news was spreading in
all directions, and people were starting for the Notch. We
went generally on foot, there being a few horses in the train
until they were intercepted by the swollen river. We passed
this river in boats and on trees fallen across it, the bridges
being mostly carried away. With little of interest to diver-
sify our way, save some additional reports that my bro-
ther's family were destroyed, we approached the scene of
destruction, entering the opening a hundred rods perhaps
below the Notch House, which was still hidden from our
sight by an intervening ascent. We met the first great
slide, which had crossed our path on level ground, and even
ascending some, so great was the force which propelled it
from the base of the mountains. After passing this, which
consisted of large rocks, and trees, and sand, and which was
impassable, except by footmen, and reaching the elevation,
^:^'^^^
''li S
J,5
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 123
we came in full view of the Notch House, and all the ruing
that surrounded it. On our right stood in lengthened prospect
the precipitous mountain, which had been riven by the fires
and tempests of many succeeding years. On our left and in
front, the mountains, though once covered with a wood of
pleasant green, now presented their sides lacerated and torn
by the convulsions of the recent storm. The plain before us
appeared one continuous bed of sand and rocks, with here and
there the branches of green trees and their peeled and shiv-
ered trunks, and old logs, which, from their appearance, must
have long been buried beneath the mountain soil. "With these
the meadow which stretches along before the Notch House was
covered, and so deep, that none of the long grass, nor alders
that grew there, were to be seen. Moving on from this
site, we came upon the next large slide, which continued till
it met that of another, which came down below the Notch
House, and within a rod of it. Thus far it was one continued
heap of ruins, and, beyond the house, the slides continued
many rods. The one back of the house started in a direc-
tion, in which it must have torn it away, had it not been
arrested by a ridge of land extending back of the house to a
more precipitous part of the mountain. Descending to this
point, the slide divided, and sought the valleys, which lie at
the base : one part carrying away in its course the stable
above the house, and the other passing immediately below it,
leaving the house itself unimpaired.
Over this crude and extended mass of ruin we reached the
house about noon. Many persons had already arrived there
from both above and below the Notch. Some search had
already been made for the bodies in that part of the slide,
just described, which came down below the house. That not
availing anything, there was a pause in this direction about
124 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
the time our party arrived. The slide which we have referred
to above as dividing back of the house, again united directly
in front of it, and flowed on in the bed of the Saco, down the
valley. Following down this slide, the accidental moving of
a twig disclosed some flies which prey usually upon infected
animal matter. Search was immediately commenced about
this spot. This search soon disclosed one of the bodies. Im-
mediately the news came to us, and we were soon crowding
to the spot. It was no long time before the body first dis-
covered was fully uncovered, and another not far ofi". These
were the bodies of my brother's wife, and one of the hired
men, David Allen. They were dreadfully mangled, especially
my brother's wife. Scarcely a look of her, as seen in life,
could be perceived about the remains. The body of my
brother was soon found, near where those of his wife and
hired man had been discovered. This was injured less than
those of the two preceding. It could be recognized easily
in any place by an intimate acquaintance.
All these bodies, after suitable time to make coffins from
materials such as could be obtained there, were made ready
for burial. It was decided to bury them near the house of
their recent habitation, and let them remain there till they
could be more conveniently moved to Conway the succeeding
winter. One common wide grave was dug for them, and they
were placed in its margin, to remain till the befitting and ac-
customed prayer at burial was performed. That prayer was
made by a personal friend of my brother, and one who often
ministered in holy things. The prayer was suited to the
occasion, coming from a kind, sympathizing, pious heart. It
was impressive as it came from the good man's lips ; and then
its impressiveness was greatly increased from the circum-
stances under which it was made. In the echoes that were
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 125
awakened by his voice, the very mountains around us seemed
to join with him in describing the majesty of God, and im-
ploring his mercy on our stricken hearts. When, with slow
and distinct utterance, the minister, at the commencement of
his prayer, referred to the magnificence of the Deity, as
described by the Prophet Isaiah, saying, "Who hath meas-
ured the waters in the hollow of his hand, and meted out
heaven with a span, and comprehended the dust of the earth
in a measure, and weighed the mountains in scales, and the
hills in a balance," the echo gave back every word of this
sublime description in a tone equally clear and solemn with
that in which they were first uttered. The effect of all this
was soul-stirring beyond description. I shall never forget
the tears and sorrows that marked the faces of many that
stood around that open grave, on that solemn occasion.
The minister who made that prayer was Elder Samuel
Hasaltine, then of Bartlett, now living in Bethel. After the
prayer we buried the bodies, —
*' And then, one summer evening's close,
We left them to their last repose."
It was dark before the burial was completed, and we were
compelled to spend the night in the house so lately left by
the buried family.
The next day the most of us left for our homes. Some
remained to make further search for the bodies yet undis-
covered. In the course of the day, the body of the youngest
child, about three years old, was found, and buried near those
of its parents, without any special religious service. Search
was continued still the succeeding day, and the body of the
eldest child, a girl of twelve years of age, and the other
hired man, David Nickerson, were found and buried in the
11^
126 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
same manner. The bodies of the remaining cliildren, two
sons and a daughter, have never been found. They were
covered so deep beneath the piles of rubbish, that no search
has ever, come at them. From the magnitude of the slide,
and the amount of matter thrown into the vallej, it is more
remarkable that so many of the bodies were found, than that
these were not found.
The destruction was complete; no living creature about
the premises escaped, it, except my brother's dog, and his two
oxen. He had two horses, which were crushed beneath the
falling timbers of the stable. These had been dragged out
and exposed to view when the party I was in first arrived
on the fatal spot. The oxen were imperiled by the disaster,
but escaped without any material injury. One of them was
crushed to the floor by falling timbers, but not killed. The
other, standing by his side, being more sturdy, resisted them,
so that they broke over his back, and, when found, he stood
upright amid the ruins about him. In this condition, one
crushed to the floor, and the other standing, they remained
from Monday night until the next Wednesday morning.
They were then released by a Mr. Barker, the man who
first visited the scene of ruins after it transpired. Coming
down through the Notch, from the north, he reached the spot
about sunset on Tuesday, and took up his lodgings in the
vacated house for the night. When the hush of stillness and
desertion, he first found about this house, became more settled,
as he lay in his bed trying to compose himself to sleep, being
weary, he heard a low moaning, as from some living crea-
ture. Under circumstances to interpret this most darkly, as
being perhaps the suppressed wail of one of the family still
living, — and, yet, not able to accomplish anything by rising,
on account of the deep darkness in the house and about the
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 127
premises, and unable to get any light to reliev eit, — he lay
terror-stricken and sleepless till the dawn of day. With the
first ray of light he arose, and, after a little search, found the
cause of his excitement. It was the crushed ox we have
referred to, moaning under the pain and uneasiness of his
situation. He immediately released him from his confinement,
and soon proceeded on his way down toward Bartlett and
Conway. ^ This was the man that brought to us the first
tidings respecting the great disaster.
So far we have sought to bring out somewhat minutely the
points in the great destruction of my brother and his family,
so richly deserving a record and the lasting remembrance of
all who survive them. Here we might cease, perhaps ; still
there may be lingering inquiries, with some, demanding atten-
tion. How were the family destroyed? What were the
main circumstances pertaining to the great event of their
destruction ? In what manner did the great slide from the
mountain, directly back of the house, which was certainly the
agent of their destruction, come to bear upon them so as to
produce their deaths ?
In attempting a reply to these queries there is obviously
nothing to aid but conjecture. There is no definite knowledge
within our reach to bring to such a work.
" Sire, motlier, oflspring — all were there ;
Not one had 'scaped the conqueror's snare,
Not one was left to weep alone ;
The ' dwellers of the hill ' were gone !
Say, whither are those dwellers gone ?
Bird of the mountain, thou alone
Saw by the lightning from on high
The mountain-torrent rushing by ;
Beheld, upon its wild wa-ve borne.
128 INCIDENTS IN ^YHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
The tall pine from the hill-top torn.
Amid its roai', thine ear alone
Heard the wild shriek — the dying groan —
The prayer that struggled to be free,
Breathed forth in life's last agony !
In vain — no angel form was there ;
The wild wave drowned the sufferers' prayer ;
As down the rocky glen they sped,
The mountain-spirits shrieked and fled ! "
CHAPTER IX.
THE SLIDES, CONTINUED.
THE FAMILY DOG. — THE FIRST COXJECTURE IN REGARD TO MANNER OF DE-
STRUCTION. SECOND CONJECTURE. THIRD CONJECTURE. THE DREAM.
WHY ALL ■WERE DESTROYED. THE MUTILATION OF THE BODIES. — DAVID
ALLEN. THE GREAT RISE OF WATER. THEIR TERRIBLE SITUATION DURING
THE STORM. — THE EFFECT OF A STORM UPON A FAMILY IN THE SAME HOUSE
A YEAR AFTER. — THE STORM.
They all perished together, and this was rather remarka-
ble. Some one or more of the children, since the moving of
their parents to the Notch House, had generally been with
their relatives in Conway. That they should all have been
at home, then, at the time of the disaster, and all have perished
together, may be deemed as giving a peculiar aspect to the
whole matter. Friends might have wished it otherwise^ on
some accounts, and yet, we must say, it was best as it was.
No one survived to endure the deep anguish that must have
come from the destruction of all his nearest kindred.
We have said if one of the family had survived we might
have had some information about it. If even the family dog
could have spoken, he would have told us more about the sad
event than we now know. He would have described one of
the most heart-rending scenes ever witnessed. • He probably
accompanied the family, as they commenced their march to
130 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
death from tlieir dwelling, but escaped hj his superior sight
and agility. We infer this from some contusions on his body
discoverable when first seen after the disaster. This dog, to
the best of his power, did try to inform some friends of the
destroyed family of what had happened. Soon after this
disaster, and before any news of it had come to Conway, this
faithful dog came down to Mr. Lovejoy's, and, by meanings
and other expressions of deep inward anguish around the
persons of the family, tried to make them understand what
had taken place ; but, not succeeding, he left, and after being
seen frequently on the road between the Notch House and
the residence of the family just referred to, sometimes head-
ing north, and then south, running almost at the top of his
speed, as though bent on some most absorbing errand, he
soon disappeared from the region, and has never since been
seen. He probably perished through grief and loneliness
combined with exhaustion of body.
In the absence of any exact information, then, from any
quarter, respecting the manner of the destruction of the fam-
ily, we are shut up entirely to the force of conjecture, as we
have said. That most commonly indulged is this :
The family, at first, designed to keep the house, and did
actually remain in it till after the descent of most of the
slides. From the commencement of the storm in its greatest
fury they were, probably, on the alert, though previously to
this some of them might have retired to rest. That the
children had, was pretty evident from appearances in the
nouse when first entered after the disaster. My brother, it
is pretty certain, had not undressed ; he stood watching the
movements and vicissitudes of the awfully anxious season.
When the storm had increased to such violence as to threaten
their safety, and descending avalanches seemed to be sound-
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 131
ing '-'the world's last knell," he roused his family and pre-
pared them, as he could, for a speedy flight, trembling every
moment lest they should be buried under the ruins of their
falling habitation.
At this hurried, agitating moment of awful suspense, the
slide, wbich parted back of the house, is supposed to have
come down, a part of which struck and carried away the
stable. Hearing the crash, they instantly and precipitately
rushed from their dwelling, and attempted to flee in the op-
posite direction. But the thick darkness covering all objects
from their sight, they were almost instantly engulfed in the
desolating torrent which passed below the house, and which
precipitated them, together with rocks and trees, into the
swollen and frantic tide below, and cut off" at once all hope
of escape. Amidst the rage and foam of so much water,
filled, as it was, with so many instruments of death, they
had no alternative but the doom which was before them.
Others have supposed that, as the storm increased during
the night, thinking the stable a safer place than the house,
being constructed of stronger materials, they went into the
stable before the destructive slide came down which carried
them away; and there they met death by the part of it
which fell, and the mingled current of sand and timber which
produced the fall, and were borne along on its course to where
they were afterwards found. This conjecture arose, probably,
from the fact that the remains of such of the family as were
discovered were found very near the timbers of that portion
of the stable which was carried away.
There is still another conjecture respecting the manner of
the great disaster, suggested by a dream of my eldest brother,
James Willey. In his dream he thought he saw the brother
that was destroyed, and asked him why he and his family
132 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
left the house, as they did, and thus exposed themselves to
dangers abroad, when they might have been more safe at
home. This has often been asked. In reply to this, my
brother remarked that they did not leave the house until the
■waters rose so high in front, and came up so near, that they
found they would carry away the house ; so, to avoid being
drowned, they took some coverings for shelter against the
storm, and went out to the foot of the mountain back of the
house, and from thence, soon after, were carried away by
the great slide that came down in that direction.
This is an explanation of the manner of the disaster of
which we might never have conceived but for the dream.
But, when taken up from this source, it adjusts itself better
to the great facts in the case than either of the theories w^e
have heretofore considered. It explains why a bed was
found on the ruins near the body of the eldest daughter.
That bed was needed as a shelter from the storm, in the
retreat the family made to the base of the mountain.
The theory of the dream, too, explains why the family were
all destroyed, and some did not escape. On the supposition of
the first theory, that the family fled precipitately from the
house when they heard the crash of the stable, and were soon
engulfed in the part of the great slide that ran below the
house, it has always seemed strange to me, at least, that such
as were in the rear of the fleeing party did not pause, or re-
cede, even, when they found those in the advance carried off
by the moving mass, and, perhaps, giving a sudden outcry
that there was danger in the way. But, on the supposition
before us, the family, just previous to the slide, were grouped
together at the foot of the mountain. In this situation they
would be an easy prey to the massive slide, coming upon
them in its force, and be carried away before it in a body.
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 133
So, too, in regard to another point in the history of the
great event ; the great mutilation of all the bodies that were
found after the disaster. The theory before us explains
that better than either of those previously named. Under
the idea that these bodies started from the base of the moun-
tain on their way to death, we can better understand why
they were so mangled, than if we conceive them just starting
from the house on such a destiny. In this case, they would
have a longer course over which to pass, and that course full
of instruments suited well to disfigure and mar their bodies.
We refer no-^f^ particularly to the stable and its falling tim-
bers, as furnishing those instruments. This stood in the path
the bodies would naturally travel in passing from the base of
the mountain to the place of their discovery after the disaster.
It may be clearly seen, then, how the facts in the case sustain,
so far, the theory of the dream, since, by means of that, we
cai^ much better conceive why the bodies were so mutilated,
than why they should be so on the supposition that they
started from the house, less distant from their deposit in
death, and that less distance not so pregnant with instruments
of mutilation.
In speaking of the disfigured condition of the bodies, we
may properly refer to that of Allen, the hired n^an, first
found.
This man, in life, was distinguished as one physically pe-
culiar among all his race ; earnest-looking, full and muscular
in body, quick and strong in motion. In death he exhibited
just the appearance those characteristic features would natu-
rally give him. He was found near the top of a pile of
mingled earth and broken timbers, with head rather elevated,
and hands clenched hard, and full of broken sticks and small
limbs of trees.
12 t^
134 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
" The fragment in whose clenched hand told
How firm on life had been his hold."
In these hands, and the position of his body, he gave clear
evidence that before his death he had had a fierce struggle
with the elements of ruin about him, and that at last he was
overcome, and perished only in circumstances of peril, where
no amount of bodily strength or agility could avail him, and
from which no mortal could escape.
How long, it might be queried, now, was the conflict which
this man had with the elements of ruin about him, before he
finally perished ? Was it commensurate witl# the signal
marks of energy and firmness in the conflict itself, such as
were stamped on every part of him in death ? A solution of
this query is certainly desirable. If, as suggested by the
first conjecture, his course of contention with the elements of
death were considered as extending only from the house to
where he was found, such a course might be deemed l^o
short for displaying such fierce encounter with the elements
as he did, or exhibiting such marks of injury upon his per-
son as were presented at the time he was found. But, if we
consider his course to be from the base of the mountain to
the bed of death on which he was found, then he had ample
space to display all the energies of his strong physical nature.
Commencing the struggle at the very onset of the slide, bat-
tling with the rocks and trees as they came upon him, trying
to retain his hold on the ground at the foot of the mountain
by grasping the small twigs and plants there, and then being
torn away from them or with them in his hands, and carried
down to the falling stable, and then again, if still alive,
grasping its timbers, for relief, but finding some rather heavy
beatings and bruisings on various parts of his body when he
passed down to the end of his ^ourse he would be thoroughly
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 135
beaten in the conflict, and exhibit just the marks of violence
he did on his person.
There is another thing in this conjecture, accounting for
the manner of the disaster, that is worthy of observation.*
This makes the rapid and elevated rise of the water about
the house as the great reason why the family went back to
the foot of the mountain, and there perished. Aside from
this theory we might never have thought of such a state of
things ; and yet, when once presented, we see that it har-
monizes perfectly with all the great facts in the case. We
need the disclosure of this, indeed, to explain what has always
been known in relation to the great disaster. Everything
above and below the Notch House seems to point to a high
and rapid rise of water there. In Conway, where I lived,
twenty-five miles below this house, the water, on the night of
the disaster, rose twenty-four feet in about seven hours.
The Saco was forded about nine o'clock on the evening of
that night, and, by daylight the next morning, its waters, as
far down in their course as Bartlett and Conway, had risen,
by exact admeasurement, twenty-four feet, as we have said,
covering all the intervals, in those towns, on both sides of
its usual channel. It is reasonable, then, to infer that there
must have been a high and rapid rise of water at its source
near the Notch House. And, besides this, all the mountains
in the region of the Notch and Notch House indicated the pour-
ing out of such torrents of rain from the clouds on their peaks
and sides, as must have produced a great flood of water in those
places. Slides on a mountain, produced by a common rain,
generally begin slightly, at their summits, and increase as
they go down ; but here, from the very summits, the earth
and rocks were driven down, as if some immense cistern
had been emptied at once upon them. The great idea in
13G INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
reference to this seems to be, that before, the great storm
came on in its strength and force, ample preparations had
been made for it. We have already referred to this fact.
All the day previous to its commencement at nightfall,
and even before that, for days, lighter clouds had been col-
lecting ; but all that day, especially, heavy, dark clouds,
surcharged with water, were seen sailing up from the south,
in close succession, and resting on the White Mountains.
With all this resource of clouds thus collected ai\d embod-
ied on such a spot, it was only necessary to compress them,
and then would come a tempest in its strength. The maga-
zine was ready — touch it, and it would pour out water enough
to deluge all the region beneath it. This, from observation,
seemed to be just the effect of the storm through all the great
ravines from the Notch down below the Notch House. Pass
down or up through all the length of that great ravine, and,
under your feet and on either side of you, all that distance,
you would see the very effect on mountain and plain, such as
would come if great bodies of water were poured on them at
once. Excavations in the hard earth were made so deep,
large rocks were moved so far, stone and wooden bridges were
so upturned, as to convince you, beyond a doubt, a deluge of
water, far beyond what was ordinary, had been in their midst.
The above theories are undoubtedly the only ones that can
be presented to point out the manner by which the family
perished. Beyond these we cannot possibly conceive of an-
other by which the great event could transpire ; and which of
these was the one expressing the real mode of it, we do not
wish, even, to give our opinion. With the main facts before
the eye of the reader, such as we have drawn out at some
length, we had much rather he should decide for himself which
is most probable. In the absence of certain knowledge, it is
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 137
most likely that different persons may come to different con-
clusions respecting it. Where there is nothing but conjec-
ture to guide any one in making up an opinion, certainly no
one will be holden precisely to that of another. Every one
for himself will make up the judgment he may think the great
facts in the case shall best warrant. But. after all, the mere
manner in which the family were destroyed is not the great
thing. There are things enough known respecting it to give
it a strong claim on our attention. We know the family
perished ; and we know the circumstances of their death must
have been distressing beyond description. Bring them, for
a moment, before your imagination. The avalanche, which
only two months before had nearly caused their instanta-
neous death, if it had not induced timidity, must have greatly
increased their sensibihty to danger, and filled them with
ominous forebodings when this new war of elements began.
Add to this the horror of thick darkness that surrounded
their dwelling ; the tempest raging with unbridled violence ;
the bursting thunder, peal answering to peal, and echoing
from mountain to mountain with solemn reverberation ; the
piercing lightning, whose momentary flashes only rendered the
darkness and their danger the more painfully visible ; huge
masses of the mountain tumbling from their awful height, with
accumulating and crashing ruins into the abyss below ; their
habitation shaken to its foundation by these concussions of
nature ; — with all these circumstances of terror conspiring,
what consternation must have filled the soul ! And then, the
critical instant when the crashing of the stable, by the resist-
less mass, warned them to flee, if we adopt the first theory
respecting the manner of the disaster ; or, if we adopt the last,
when, amidst the very enginery of death all about them, as
they went back to the foot of the mountain, every moment
12=*
138 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
expecting to perish bj lightning, or moving rocks and tim-
bers that swept the face of both mountain and plain like a
destroying besom ; who can enter into their feelings at such
a crisis of the wildest uproar and confusion? It is im-
possible for any one now living, or any one who lived at the
time of this destruction, to sympathize at all with the ago-
nies of spirit that filled them to the surfeit. We may task
our imagination to the highest point possible within our power,
and we could not do it. We may strain our conception of
mental horror and impressions of soul that might come upon
us under the most startling forms of impending death, and,
after all, we should fail entirely of coming to the dreadful
reality. We may combine our deepest conceptions of what
is di-eadful in a moment of imminent death, with the most vivid
descriptions, from books or friends, of what others have felt
as they stood trembling on the verge of ruin, and still we
could not comprehend what was felt by the family of my
brother, when they went out from their dwelling on the terri-
ble night of their destruction, and not only trembled under
apprehension of death, but met it and realized it under one of
its severest forms.
The best conception which any one could have of what
was suffered by the family, on the eve of their destruction,
was realized by a family which, for a time, occupied the
same house from which they perished.
Por the same reason that my brother and his family moved
into the house, another man, named Pendexter, with his fam-
ily, moved into the same house, more than a year after the
terrible disaster. His object was mainly to afford entertain-
ment for travellers during the winter ; as, during that season,
it was more needed in that spot than during the other sea-
sons of the year. Some time after his removal, a heavy
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 139
storm took place. It was not so severe as the one that
destroyed my brother's family, but still it was severe enough
to give one some pretty clear conception of the force of that.
The same general movements, probably, transpired in the lat-
ter storm, that did in the first, though not so great in degree.
During the progress of this, there were successive events of
a most awe-inspiring character. At one time would be seen
the sharpest lightning followed by the heaviest thunder ;
then would be seen streams, arising from the concussion of
rocks on the face of the mountain opposite the Notch House,
ascending from the base to the very summit, lighting all
the valley about with a brilliant light. At the same time,
the noise from the concussions would reverberate strong
enough to drown the heaviest thunder. All the time, too,
these lights were shining, and the peals of heavy thunder were
alternating with concussions of rocks on the mountain sides
such as to make the very earth tremble under your feet, the rain
was pouring in deafening torrents. These impressive circum-
stances of the storm, together with reflections of what passed
in the same house months before, so affected the then resident
family, that not a word was spoken for near half an hour.
They stood and looked at each other, almost petrified with
fear. And yet, this storm, as we have intimated, was very
much inferior in power to the one we have been considering,
and which brought on the great disaster that has occupied so
much of our attention.
In closing this whole account of one of the most terrible
storms ever transpiring, we cannot do it better, perhaps, than
in the words of Byron : aXVi
" The sky is changed I and such a change ! 0 night, \X^ ^ • •/
And storm, and darkness, ye are wondrous strong ! f^ / ^ • "
140 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
Far along,
From peak to peak, the rattling crags among,
Leaps the live thunder ! Not from one lone cloud,
But every mountain now hath found a tongue.
And Jura answers, through her misty shroud,
Back to the joyous Alps, who call to her aloud.
Now, where the quick Rhone thus has cleft his way.
The mightiest of the storms hath ta'en his stand ;
For here, not one, but many, make their play.
And fling their thunderbolts from hand to hand.
Flashing and cast around ; of all the band,
The brightest through these parted hills hath forked
His lightnings, — as if he did understand.
That, in such gaps as desolation worked.
There the hot shaft should blast whatever therein lurked.
CHAPTER X.
THE STORM AS WITNESSED BY ONE AT THE MOUNTAINS. — THE VIK\V FR03I
BETHLEHEM. RAPID RISE OF THE AMMONOOSUC. CONDITION OF CAPTAIN
ROSEBROOK'S farm. SLIDES AS FIRST SEEN. FALLS OF THE AMMO-
NOOSUC. DIFFICULTY OF REACHING CRAWFORD'S. ATTEMPT TO ASCEND
THE MOUNTAINS. THE CAMP. GREAT DESTRUCTION OF TREES.
Our account of this remarkable storm and its effects
"would be very imperfect were we to omit the following,
written by a gentleman who was on the spot directly after
the storm had passed :
"The rains had been falling nearly three weeks, over the
southern parts of New England, before they reached the
neighborhood of the White Mountains. At the close of a
stormy day the clouds all seemed to come together, as to a
resting-place, on these lofty summits; and, having retained
their chief treasure till now, at midnight discharged them
in one terrible burst of rain, the efifects of which were awful
and disastrous. The storm continued most of the night ; but
the next morning was clear and serene. The view from the
hill of Bethlehem was extensive and delightful. In the
eastern horizon Mount "Washington, with the neighboring
peaks on the north and on the south, formed a grand outline
far up in the blue sky. Two or three small fleecy clouda
142 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
rested on its side^>^a little below its summit ; while, from
behind this highest point of land in the United States, east
of the Mississippi, the sun rolled up rejoicing in his strength
and glory. We started off towards the object of our journey,
with spirits greatly exhilarated by the beauty and grandeur
of our prospect. As we hastened forward with our eyes
fixed on the tops of the mountains before us, little did we
think of the scene of destruction around their base, on which
the sun was now for the first time beginning to shine. In
about half an hour we entered a wilderness, in which we
were struck with its universal stillness. From every leaf in
its immense masses of foliage the rain hung in large glittering
drops ; and the silver note of a single unseen and unknown
bird was the only sound that we could hear. After we had
proceeded a mile «or two, the roaring of the Ammonoosuc
began to break upon the stillness, and now grew so loud as
to excite our surprise. In consequence of coming to the
river almost at right angles, and by a very narrow road,
through trees and bushes very thick, we had no view of the
water, till with a quick trot we had advanced upon the bridge
too far to retreat, when the sight that opened at once to the
right hand and to the left drew from all of us similar excla-
mations of astonishment and terror; and we hurried over
the trembling fabric as fast as possible. After finding our-
selves safe on the other side, we walked down to the brink ;
and, though familiar with mountain scenery, we all confessed
we had never seen a mountain torrent before. The water
was as thick with earth as it could be without beinor changed
into mud. A man living near in a log hut showed us how
high it was at daybreak. Though it had fallen six feet, he
assured us it was ten feet above its ordinary level. To this
add its ordinary depth of three or four feet, and here at day-
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 143
break •v^'a3 a body of water, twenty feet deep and sixty feet
wide, moving with the rapidity of a gale of ^vind between
steep banks covered with hemlocks and pines, and over a bed
of large rocks, breaking its surface into billows like those of
the ocean. After gazing a few moments on this sublime
sight, we proceeded on our way, for the most part at some
distance from the river, till we came to the farm of Rose-
brook, lying on its' banks. Wo found his fields covered with
water, and sand, and flood-wood. His fences and bridges
were all swept away, and the road was so blocked up with
logs that we had to wait for the labor of men and oxen
before we could get to his house. Here we were told that
the river was never before known to bring down any con-
siderable quantity of earth ; and were pointed to bare spots,
on the sides of the White Mountains, never seen till that
morning. As our road, for the remaining six miles, lay
quite near the river, and crossed many small tributary
streams, we employed a man to accompany us with an axe
We were frequently obliged to remove trees from the road,
to fill excavations, to mend and make bridges, or contrive to
get our horses and wagon along separately. After toiling in
this manner half a day, we reached the end of our journey ;
not, however, without being obliged to leave our wagon half
a mile behind. In many places, in those six miles, the road
and the whole adjacent woods, as it appeared from the marks
on the trees, had been overflowed to the depth of ten feet.
In one place, the river, in consequence of some obstruction
at a remarkable fall, had been twenty feet higher than it was
when we passed. We stopped to view the fall, which Dr.
D wight calls 'beautiful.' He says of it, ' The descent is from
fifty to sixty feet, cut through a mass of stratified granite ;
the sides of which appear as if they had been laid by a mason
144 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
in a variety of fantastical forms; betraying, however, by
their rude and wild aspect, the masterly hand of nature.'
This description is sufficiently correct ; but the beauty of the
fall was now lost in its sublimity. You have only to imagine
the whole body of the Ammonoosuc, as it appeared at the
bridge which we crossed, now compressed to half of its width,
and sent downward, at an angle of twenty or twenty- five
degrees, between perpendicular walls of stone. On our arrival
at Crawford's, the appearance of his farm was like that of
Rosebrook's, only much worse. Some of his sheep and
cattle were lost, and eight hundred bushels of oats were de-
stroyed. Here we found five gentlemen, who gave us an
interesting account of their unsuccessful attempt to ascend
Mount Washington the preceding day. They went to the
' Camp ' at the foot of the mountain on Sabbath evening, and
lodged there with the intention of climbing the summit the
next morning. But in the morning the mountains were en-
veloped in thick clouds ; the rain began to fall, and increased
till afternoon, when it came down in torrents. At five
o'clock they proposed to spend another night at the camp,
and let their guide return home for a fresh supply of pro-
visions for the next day. But the impossibility of keeping
a fire where everything was so wet, and, at length, the advice
of their guide, made them all conclude to return, though with
great reluctance. No time was now to be lost, for they
had several miles to travel on foot, and six of them by a
rugged path through a gloomy forest. They ran as fast as
their circumstances would permit ; but the dark evergreens
around them, and the black clouds above, made it night before
they had gone half of the way. The rain poured down
faster every moment ; and the little streams, which they had
stepped across the evening before, must now be crossed by
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 145
wading, or by cutting down trees for bridges, to which they
were obliged to cling for life. In this way they reached the
bridge over the Ammonoosuc, near Crawford's, just in time
to pass it before it was carried down the current. On Wednes-
day, the weather being clear and beautiful, and the waters
having subsided, six gentlemen, with a guide, went to Mount
Waslhington, and one accompanied Mr. Crawford to the
' Notch,' from which nothing had yet been heard. We met
again at evening, and related to each other what we had
seen. The party who went to the mountain were five hours
in reaching the site of the camp, instead of three, the usual
time. The path for nearly one third of the distance was so
much excavated, or covered with miry sand, or blocked up
with flood-wood, that they were obliged to grope their way
through thickets almost impenetrable, where one generation
of trees after another had risen and fallen, and were now
lying across each other in every direction, and in various
stages , of decay. The camp itself had been wholly swept
away ; and the bed of the rivulet by which it had stood was
now more than ten rods wide, and with banks from ten to
fifteen feet high. Four or five other brooks were passed,
whose beds were enlarged, some of them to twice the extent
of this. In several the water was now only three or four
feet wide, while the bed, of ten, fifteen, or twenty rods in
width, was covered for miles with stones, from two to five feet
in diameter, that had been rolled down the mountain and
through the forests by thousands, bearing everything before
them. Not a tree, nor the root of a tree, remained in their
path. Immense piles of hemlocks and other trees, with their
limbs and bark entirely bruised ofi", were lodged all the way
on both sides, as they had been driven in among the standing
and half-standing trees on the banks. While the party were
13
146 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
climbing the mountain, thirty 'slides' were counted, some
of which began where the soil and vegetation terminate ; and,
growing wider as they descended, were estimated to contain
more than a hundred acres. These were all on the western
side of the mountains. They were composed of the whole
surface of the earth, with all its growth of woods, and its
loose rocks, to the depth of fifteen, twenty, and thirty feet ;
and wherever the slides of the projecting mountains met,
and formed a vast ravine, the depth was still greater."
CHAPTER XI.
BARTLETT.
GENERAL FEATURES. ROCKY BRANCH. INCIDENT ON ITS BANK. INCI-
DENTS OF ELLIS' RIVER. FIRST SETTLEMENT. LOSS OF THE HORSES.
SNOW CAVERNS. BROTHERS E5IERT. HUMPHREY'S OBSTINACY. THEIR
PERILOUS ESCAPE FROM FREEZING. — HON. JOHN PENDEXTER. HIS REMOVAL
FROM PORTSMOUTH. CHILDREN. " RAISING '* SCENE. — MRS. PENDEXTER.
— THE GREAT DISTANCE OF A MARKET. DIFFICULTY OF REACHING MARKET.
. — TRAPS FOR CATCHING WILD ANKL^LS. — THE COMMON LOG TRAP.
FIGURE FOUR. — PEQUAWKET MOUNTAIN. ADVENTURE WITH A RATTLE-
SNAKE. — THE " CHAPEL OF THE HILLS." — MRS. SNOW. ITS DEDICATION.
" Go, call thy sons ; instruct them what a debt
They owe their ancestors ; and make them swear
To pay it, by transmitting down entire
Those sacred rights to which themselves were born."
Bartlett is a small, irregular-shaped town, lying near the
White Mountains, having Jackson on the north and Conway
on the south. Saco river runs through it, in a circling
course, making almost a semicircle within its limits. On both
sides of this river, through all its course in the town, is good
land, to some extent from its banks ; and that is about all the
good land the town affords. You soon come to the mountains,
after you leave this stretch of land, which generally corre-
spond with the course of the river in the direction of their
i
#
148 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
ranges. None of these mountains are so large as to claim
anj particular notice.
Rocky Branch, a stream tributary to the Saco, empties
into it near the centre of the town. It runs with a rapid
current, most of the way from its starting, over a rocky bed,
as its name indicates, till it mingles with its confluent stream.
It rises very rapidly in times of great rains, as do most
other streams in the region. At the time of the great disas-
ter near the Notch, wdien my brother's family were destroyed,
it was the scene of a most thrilling incident.
Previous to this time, near down to where it flows into the
Saco, on a spot of level, smooth land, familiarly called Jericho,
a man by the name of Emery had built a small log cabin, and
moved his family into it. In the night, the same on which
the great disaster occurred on the Saco, this stream, in the
vehemence of its rapid, high-swollen current, brought down
so many trees, and rocks, and logs, from the land along its
banks, that it formed a sort of dam just below the spot on
which the cabin stood. This made a pond of water, which
started the cabin from its foundation, and buoyed it up on its
surface like a boat. Here the family were, in the depth of a
dark stormy night, with the water roaring in their ears, at the
mercy of an angry flood. Their feelings in this situation can
much better be imagined than expressed. They did the best
they could, went into the highest part of the cabin, and there
awaited the fearful issue. They expected every instant to be
engulfed in the waters. For long hours, with little to be
seen, but almost everything dreadful to be heard, they held
death steadily before them. Their prospect of escape, under
the circumstances, was the frailest imaginable. But they
survived the peril. The waters at last subsided, their little
ark rested on a miniature Ararat, and the family escaped to
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.. 149
the mountains. For deep tragic interest this holds a place
next in order to the great Notch disaster itself.
A little to the east of Rocky Branch river is another, called
Ellis river, running about in the same direction from the
White Mountains and emptying likewise into the Saco. This,
in its general character, is very much like the preceding,
rapid in its current, and very much affected in its rising by
heavy rains. On the same night in which the incident oc-
curred we have just recited, another took place on this river,
showing the sudden and high rise of water on all the streams
among the mountains at that time. Near its course up in
Jackson, through which it flows on its way to Bartlett from
its origin in the mountains, a man had a yard, into which he
had collected some colts, to keep through the night. During
that night, the river, rising near the yard, rose so high, that,
flowing over its banks, it swept all the colts out of it, and
carried some of them a longer distance down its current, and
some a shorter one. They were all destroyed, however ; some
of their bodies, mangled by the rocks and roots lying along
in the rough bed of the stream, went down as far as Bartlett,
a distance of miles.
Bartlett was originally granted to William Stark, Vere
Royce, and others, in consideration of services rendered by
them during the French and Indian war in Canada. Capt.
Stark immediately divided up his grant into lots, offering
large tracts to any one who would settle on them. Two
brothers Emery, and one Harriman, were among the first
who located themselves permanently in the town. Settle-
ments had been commenced at this time in most of the towns
surrounding tl^ mountains. In 1Y77, but a few years suc-
ceeding the Emerys, Daniel *Eox, Paul Jilly and Capt.
Samuel Willey, from Lee, made a settlement in Upper Bart-
13*
150 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
lett, north of those already located. They commenced their
settlement with misfortunes as well as hardships. Their horses,
which they had brought Avith them, dissatisfied with the rich
grazing land on the Saco, started for their former home in
Lee. As it afterwards appeared, instead of following the
Saco in all its turnings and windings, as the settlers did, the
horses struck directly across the mountains to the south. On
the first mountain they separated, some going further to the
east and others to the west. This was all learned long after
the loss. Diligent search was made at the time, but to no
purpose. In the spring following the disappearance of the
horses, some dogs brought into the settlement the legs and
other parts of a horse. Suspecting that they might be parts
of those they had lost, they followed the track of the dogs, and
only about sixty rods from the settlement came upon the
carcass of one. The horse had evidently been dead but a
few weeks. He had sustained himself, it appeared, during
the winter on browse, being protected from the cold by those
immense snow-caverns which are frequently formed on the
mountains. The snow had formed an entire roof over the
tops of the thickly-matted trees, leaving the space beneath
completely free and hollow. In one of these snow-houses the
horse had lived all the winter. Flocks of sheep have been
known to be protected so from the cold, coming out healthy
and in good condition in the spring.
Most amusing stories are told of these brothers Emery.
Enoch and Humphrey were their names, the mention of
which, to this day, will provoke a smile. In their general
characteristics they difiered almost as much as it is possible
for two individuals to dijBfer. Enoch was frank, open, gen-
erous and manly in his nature, while Humphrey was sullen,
obstinate and contrary. Humphrey had been haying. He
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 151
was returning at the close of the day to his house with a
large load, which he was drawing with a small yoke of oxen.
On his way was a sharp, steep hill, which he was much afraid
his oxen would be unable to surmount with the load. He
was much worried, and it was with considerable anxiety that
he reached the foot of the hill. Here he accidentally was
met by one of his neighbors. He had not time to tell him
his fears before his neighbor had already said, " Mr. Emery,
your cattle will hardly be able to haul that load up this hill,
will they ? " This instantly roused Humphrey's opposition.
Always differing, he could do no less than differ now. • Not
raising his head, he replied, in his sullen, dogged tone, '' They
shall do it ; " and, plunging the brad into his poor oxen, made
good his word.
Though differing so much from each other in their disposi-
tions, these brothers were uniformly kind and attached to each
other. They accommodated themselves to theii? several pecu-
liarities, agreeing in all things to agree and disagree. The
expedients of Enoch to manage Humphrey were many and
ingenious.
In the depth of winter, once, both these brothers, living
near each other, went into the woods to get out some timber.
The cold was very intense, and, before they could get fairly
to work, so as to warm themselves, Humphrey became very
much chilled. Enoch felt the cold, but not so severely. He
realized, however, that he needed a fire, and perceived that
Humphrey needed it more than himself. The first thing for
them, therefore, was a fire. Having fire- works with him, and
being most active at the time, Enoch set himself to kindle
one. But his fire-works did not work well. He failed to get
from them, as soon as he expected, what he sought ; and see-
ing Humphrey sinking under the cold, and fearing to con-
152 INCIDENTS IN WHITE? MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
sume any more time in trials upon them, lest Humphrey
should perish before he succeeded, he resolved on some other
expedient to warm him. He made appliance to his temper,
which he knew to be generally quick and irritable. But this
failed for some time, owing to Humphrey's being so benumbed
with the cold. At length, however, he succeeded. He was
roused. Then all that concerned Enoch was to keep out of
his way. They ran over bushes and stumps and logs till they
both dripped with perspiration.
Hon. John Pendexter came into this town, from Ports-
mouth, at an early period of its history, and planted himself
down on the southern part of it bordering Conway. Here he
spent the rest of his life, living to the advanced age of eighty-
three years.
He, together with his wife, made their way to this spot
through many hardships, and endured many after they ar-
rived at it. They came a distance of eighty miles in winter,
she riding on an old, feeble horse, with a feather-bed under
her, a child in her arms, and he by her side, hauling his
household furniture on a hand-sled. Nor was it a well-pre-
pared home to which they came in this way, — a warm, neat
house and cultivated lands, — but a forest mainly, and a rude
cabin. These were all they had to cheer them on the way,
besides some warm hearts already living near the place of
their destination ; such as they knew would greet their coming.
And these were enough. Cheered on by them, at length
they attained the end of their course, husband and father,
wife and child. And here it may .be remarked, that this
child was cradled in a sap-trough, and ultimately became the
mother to a class of sons and a daughter, all of whom do
honor to their parentage ; but one, especially, is a man very
distinguished for talent and enterprise.
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 153
Under the labor of these hardy pioneers, the "wilderness
around them soon gave place to fruitful fields ; and the rude
cabin was exchanged for a nice, well-proportioned dwelling-
house.
Mr. Pendexter was a plain, earnest man, and for years
was especially useful, in the region where he lived, as a car-
penter. We have often seen him, with crews of men around
him, in different places, engaged in preparing frames for the
rearing ; he, with dividers and rule in hand, marking the
work for them, and they executing it with mallet and chisel
and auger.
We have seen him often, too, when this preparatory work
was done, and the frame was ready for raising, acting as
master in the enterprise. There he stood, in his cherished
element of life. '' Men," said he, at the proper time, ''are
you ready, all ready?" "Yes," the response would be,
"all ready." "Well, then, take her up, take her up, I
say — bravely, bravely ! There she goes, there she goes !
Now man those spy-shoves well ! Stand to your pick-poles
firm ! There she goes ! there she goes ! It 's well done ! well
done ! Look out for the feet of those posts there — see that
they are entered in their places. There she goes again !
Steady, now, steady, boys — steady ! She is most up. Don't
throw her over ! Steady, boys, steady ! steady ! steady !
there she is. All done. Now fasten her there, and make
her sure."
Mrs. Pendexter, as we have seen, was the worthy help-
meet of such a man as he, braving the hardships of an emi-
grating life, and doing all in her power to make the home of
his selection a retreat of quietude and plenty. She lived to
a very advanced age — ninety-two years. Having known her
well in our youth, but not having seen her for some twenty
years or more, we made a friendly call upon her at a certain
154 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
time. She was then near her end, as it proved, confined to
her bed. As we approached her, in company with her
youngest son, who stood at my side, he, perceiving that she
did not know me, as he suspected from the beginning she
would not, said : " This is Mr. Willey, mother, who has come
to see you." " Mr. Willey ! " she replied, "I don't know
who that is." "It is Mr. Willey," said he again, "the
minister. Don't you know him?" "Why, no," she re-
plied once more, leisurely, " I don't know him," keeping her
eye on me all the while. " You know his father well," said
he again, " Esq. Samuel Willey. This is his son, that is a
minister." Still she didn't know me, she said. Then, tak-
ing the right conception, he said: "Mother, this is Ben
Willey, come to see you. You knew him once, when he and
his sister Hannah used to come and play with Patty and me.
This broke the spell. Inclining her head to me, and pressing
my hand still in hers, where it had been from the beginning
of the interview, she said, with an expression of face Ave shall
never forget : " 0, yes, now I know him ! How glad I am to
see you once more ! " Her age, for a moment, seemed to be
renewed. That appellation, "Ben Willey," by which we
were often spoken of familiarly in our youth, was a ray of
light, playing with thrilling effect across her mind, and
carrying it along back, over the scenes of her long, eventful
existence, to earlier times.
Dover was the nearest market at this time ; and thither the
settlers were obliged to go for all provisions and necessaries
not raised on their farms. In winter the journey was more
easily accomplished than in summer. With snow-shoes and
a hand-sled it was not esteemed a very hard task. In sum-
mer, however, it was exceedingly difficult and tiresome.
Rude boats were usually dug out from trees, large enough to
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 155
hold several hundred weight, and then substituted, at this
season of the year, for sleds. The many falls and rapids of
the Saco made this anything but easy. The heavy boat,
heavily ladened, had to be carried around each rapid and
fall ; and, in the stillest water, managed with much skill, to
keep from the many rocks and snags.
Frequently, during their absence, the river would rise to
such a height as to be entirely impassable for days. The poor
wives and children were once obliged to live on seven pota-
toes a day, for many days, until the river fell, and their hus-
bands could cross.
Most of the living of the early settlers was the game which
they captured. Deers and bears, and other smaller animals,
were almost as common in those times as squirrels now. But
little powder was used, it being too costly, and difficultly
obtained. Traps and snares, of many devices and shapes, were
used in its stead. A description (5f some of the more common
may not be uninteresting, as illustrating the ingenuity of our
fathers. Large steel traps were used by those who could
afford them ; but a majority of the settlers were too poor.
The most common was a trap constructed of logs, on the prin-
ciple of the common box-trap for catching mice and squirrels.
A small log-house is first constructed, complete, with the
exception of one end. A log door is then fashioned exactly
to this end, and made to play up and down in grooves cut in
the logs. Through the opposite end to the door is placed a
long pole, having the bait on its inner end, and holding by
its outer end the long pole which runs over the house, and
raises the door. All baited, it is left for its prey. The hun-
gry bear, suspecting evil, advances and retreats many times
ere he ventures to enter. At length, after due amount of
smellhig and growling, his appetite overcomes his prudence ,
156 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
and cautiously, at first very cautiously, he puts his head
inside the door. He is not perfectly certain, yet, that there
is no danger, and would like to get the bait without exposing
more of his body ; but he cannot do it ; and, after reaching
and stretching till out of patience, he determines to substitute
speed for caution, and dashes at the bait with all his might.
The fierceness with which he seizes the meat shakes the two
poles from their fastenings ; and down comes the door, leav-
ing old bruin to lament his folly.
Another contrivance is to build a house in the same man-
ner as the preceding, with like walls and covering. But,
instead of such a door as there used, take timbers so small
that they will bend, especially at one end ; or, if large
timbers are deemed best, hew them down so that they will
yield to pressure at one end ; place these in the ends of the
house, in such a way that the elastic ends will approach each
other somewhat, giving them, when all put up, a tunnel
shape ; the end of those outside farthest apart, and those
within the house nearer together. Thus constructed, with
bait put far into the house, the bear will press into the tun-
nel, the elastic ends of it yielding to the pressure of his body,
and obtain the bait and the inside of the house. But now
he has gone too far to retreat ; the elastic ends of the timbers
coming to their natural position, after the pressure of his
body is taken from them, he is forbidden to return.
Another mode still for catching him was by means of a
trap called the figure four. Put together large timbers, by
passing over them other smaller transverse timbers, and
fasten them together so as to make a large door, heavy enough
to crush a bear. Put under the door, one side of it, a piece
of timber answering to the diagonal in the Arabic figure four.
Then add another, adjusted to this diagonal by a groove, and
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 157
an edge on one of them, that answers to the horizontal part
of such figure ; then another, adjusted to both the diagonal
and horizontal timbers, by a groove, an edge, and what are
called gains, answering to the perpendicular line in such fig-
ure. Now put all these together, and you have a prop for
the door we have named. AVhen the door is placed on such
a prop for use, put on the end of the horizontal timber that
goes under the door the bait for the bear. Thus arranged,
when the bear shall take hold of the bait to eat it, he must
stand under the door, and, in devouring the bait, he must
necessarily disarrange the figure, and bring the covering
over him down upon his back.
In the south-east of this town, lying partly within its
bounds and partly in Chatham, rises up one of those huge
mountain piles, standing upon the outskirts of the White
Mountains, and guarding, as it were, the approach to the
central cluster. Pequaw^ket Mountain is a wonder of itself;
and, separated from all its companions, is worthy of a jour-
ney of many hundred miles. It rises up, in the form of a
pyramid, or perhaps more cone-like, over three thousand
feet, its southern sides, from base to summit, all visible to
the beholder. The many surrounding mountains stand out
from it on its lower sides, leaving it an isolated cone, tower-
ing up in all its majesty, and revealing its huge bulk in all
its gigantic proportions. From the south it is seen nearly as
soon as Mount Washington, and the view from its summit is
quite as extensive, and much more satisfactory. A large
hotel is built upon its highest point, and the cupola, covered
with tin, is distinctly seen a distance of thirty or forty miles,
glistening in the rays of the sun.
Game was very plenty in former days around the base of
this mountain, and even to this day can be found here if
14
158 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
anywhere. If one has the courage to explore the almost im-
penetrable swamps around its base, he cannot fail to find fine
shooting and fishing. The many little hidden ponds are the
favorite resort of multitudes of wild fowl in their season, and
every secluded brook is overflowing with trout. Bears are
occasionally seen upon its sides, or in its ravines and valleys,
but are very timid and shy.
Berries are very plenty, of all kinds, upon its sides, and,
in their season, it is the resort of the inhabitants for many
miles around. A most exciting scene occurred once, to our
own knowledge, during one of these berrying excursions.
It was in the season of blueberries, and a large party had
gone out, and among them a young lady, a member of
my* own family. The party had wandered far up on the
mountain, where the growth was scantier and smaller. In
the crevices amidst the rocks, and in the little, secluded
nooks, lying under the vast piles of rocks and earth, the ber-
ries were very large and thick. The party had become much
scattered, each selecting his own place of picking, and
designing to come together again at a spring further down
on the mountain. The young lady I have before mentioned
had wandered away entirely alone. On one of those big
moss plats so common, under the lee of an overhanging cliff,
she found the berries uncommonly thick and large, and, sus-
pecting no danger, sat down, and, in her eagerness to gather
the whole, commenced a most rapid picking. How long she
thus remained she does not remember ; but, suddenly feel-
ing something move in her apron, she looked, and in
her lap was coiled up a monster rattlesnake ! The spiral
form was already assumed, and, with head erect, almost at
her very throat, he already was vibrating his huge body, and
commencing his fatal rattle. Springing, with a piercing shriek
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 159
as she perceived her danger, she threw him many feet from
her, and fell, unconscious, to the ground. The cry brought
others immediately to her assistance, and, more dead than
alive, she was led from the spot which had been so near
witnessing her death.
In Upper Bartlett, near the old '' Hall Stand," so well
known to travellers, stands a neat little building, known as
the " Chapel of the Hills." Its conception and erection has
in it much of interest. A party of Boston people, tired of
the dust and heat of the city, sought relief up ^ong the
mountains of New Hampshire. While stopping at the ''Old
Crawford House," daily becoming more and more impressed
with the wonderful works of God around them, and feeling
their hearts drawn out more, each day, in adoration to so
great a Being, suddenly the thought occurred to them, What
is the religious condition of these people around whose habi-
tations God has so displayed his power and might ? On in-
quiring, they learned that much might yet be done to advance
their religious interests. An article was prepared by one
of the party, on the subject, for the Christian Witness, of
Boston, which met the eye of Mrs. Snow, a warm friend of the
American Sabbath School Union, and, as special attention had
been called to the children of the mountains, she offered two
hundred dollars to aid in building a Sabbath School Chapel at
some eligible point high up the valley of the Saco. ■•
Rev. Mr. Souther, an agent of the Union, and an earnest and
efficient laborer in the cause of Sabbath Schools, immediately
made known the offer to the people of Upper Bartlett, and
urged upon them the importance of its acceptance and their
active cooperation. He labored with much zeal to stimulate
them to raise the amount necessary to build such a building,
and soon saw his labors blessed in the erection of a neat house
160 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
of worship, every way adapted to their wants, and which, in
its style, finish atid appointments, is exceedingly creditable
to their public spirit.
Mrs. Snow died two or three months before the chapel
was completed. Her last act was to direct the payment of
fifty dollars, completing her appropriation ; thereby showing
how much her heart was enlisted in the matter. "But,
though dead, she yet speaketh." Eloquently she is yet
speaking to those who visit these hills not to forget the
spiritual wants of the dwellers among these mountains. Elo-
quently she is yet pleading with those inhabitants themselves
to prize highly the privilege which they already enjoy,
and to be ever ready for that glorious voice :
*' Sink down, ye mountains ; and ye valleys, rise!
With heads declined, ye cedars, homage pay!
Be smooth, ye rocks ; ye rapid floods, give way!
The Saviour comes ! "
And to the one who may minister within the walls of this
little chapel she appeals most earnestly :
" To the young, in season vernal,
Jesus in his grace disclose ;
As the tree of life eternal,
'Neath whose shade they may repose,
• Shielded from the noontide ray.
And from evening's tribes of prey ;
And refreshed with fruit of love,
And with music from above."
The account of the dedication of this chapel we give in j
Mr. Souther's own words : |
i
" The dedication took place Jan. 21, 1854. Some ten
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 161
days previous, a missive reached me, so remarkable for its
brevity and explicitness, that I transcribe it:
* Bartlett, Jan. 7, 1854.
* To the Rev. Sam. Souther :
' Our house is done, and we are going to dedicate it two weeks from
this day, and we want you to attend, without fail.
' Yours, truly,
'Spenser Kenison.'
' ' The twentieth was stormy. Leaving home in the midst of
the whirling snow, it seemed exceedingly doubtful whether I
should be able, the next day, to make my way up our snowy
valley in season for the dedication services. The ministers
expected to lead in the exercises failed ; and when I reached
the house, at about eleven, a crowded congregation was
anxiously awaiting what turn affairs would take. Though
taken thus unawares, I could not hesitate, when pressed into
the novel service of preaching the dedication sermon.
Ps. 122 : 1 — 'I was glad when they said unto me, let us go
into the house of the Lord' — furnished an appropriate expres-
sion of my feelings, in being called to aid in setting apart
this humble edifice to the worship of God, and it was a joyful
occasion.
"There, at the foot of the dark gorge from which the Lidian
recoiled in terror as the abode of the Great Spirit, we had
met to seek the presence of the God we worshipped, and to
ask him to make His dwelling-pkce with us in the house we
had built.
'• Among these frowning heights around and above us, He
had often manifested himself in the tempest and the fire.
We asked that in the house we now consecrated to the min-
istrations of the word, He would come often by the still,
14*
162 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
small voice, that convinces of sin, and leadeth to repentance
and faith in Jesus.
•'The fact was not forgotten that the chapel owed its exist-
ence to the affectionate interest of a pious heart, in the religious
instruction of children, and we left it in charge of the dwell-
ers among the mountains, as the gathering point, on God's
holy day, not only for themselves, but their children and
their children's children through successive generations."
CHAPTER XII.
JACKSON.
THE VALLEYS OF THE MOUNTAINS. — THE DIRECTIONS IN WHICH THEY HUN.
MOOSE POND. MOOSE BATHING. — MOOSE. — THE CONWAY HUNTER.
— THE LEAP OF A MOOSE OVER A HORSE AND SLEIGH. — EAGLE LEDGE.
MINERAL RESOURCES. GENERAL FEATURES OP JACKSON. BENJAMIN
COPP. — HIS ENDURANCE. — MR. PINKHAM'S ACCOUNT OP HIS FIRST EN-
TRANCE INTO JACKSON. — THE HOG. THE HOUSE. SCARCITY OF SALT.
INCIDENT OP CAPTAIN VERE ROTCE. TORNADO. — EXPEDIENT TO
SAVE CHILDREN. BEAR STORY. — FREEWILL BAPTIST SOCIETY. — ELDER
DANIEL ELKINS.
** Princes and lords may flourish, or may fade ;
* * * *
But a bold peasantry, their country's pride,
When once destroyed, can never be supplied."
Like streets in some vast city, the high walls on either
hand so completely overshadowing them that the sun but
peeps into them in liis course, and is gone ; so the valleys run
round among the many spurs and ranges of these mountains,
into the vast depths of many of which he penetrates not
deep enough to melt away the winter's snow. Most of the
snow in the lowest ravines, it is said, is carried away by the
little streams which run through them. These thaw out in
164 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
the sunshine further up on the mountains, and, swollen to
twice their original size, by the melting of the snow in the
spring, go rushing and foaming through the drifts in the
ravines. Long, dark caverns are thus formed in many of the
valleys, one of which we have described in a previous
chapter.
Bartlett is the plaza, or central square, of this city of
mountains. Leading into it from the south is the Saco
valley, the Broadway of the mountains. Before reaching
the bend of the Saco, where it turns so gracefully to the left,
the little valley of the east branch of the Saco runs oflF to
the right, separating Dundy and Pequawket Mountains,
and itself dividing, one branch separating Tin Mountain from
Double Head, and the other holding in its bosom one of
those beautiful little sheets of water, so common in this region,
called Mountain Pond. Into three great sheets this Broad-
way loses itself in the central plaza. The Ellis river valley
runs off to the north, itself sending off another valley at
Jackson, a second square in the city, the Wildcat Brook
valley. Bocky Branch, starting from the same point, but
running further to the south and west of Ellis river, separates
Iron Mountain from Mount Crawford and Giant's Stairs,
and ends, at the very foot of the highest peaks, in what is
called Oakes' Gulf The Saco vj^lley continues on from its
turning point in Bartlett at right angles with its former
course for many miles, when suddenly it turns again short
round to the north, separating the whole vast cluster.
Jackson, as we have said, is a second plaza, or square, in
this city of hills. Near a mile above a little settlement in
this town, known familiarly as " Jackson City," is a little
pond, quite half a mile in length, and about as broad as it
is long, where moose formerly resorted in great numbers.
• INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 165
Paths led to it from all the great valleys and little glades ;
and each morning the huge monsters might be seen stalking
thither to perform their daily ablutions. In winter, as in
summer, they came each morning to bathe, and, breaking the
thick ice with their feet, plunged fearlessly into the cold
water.
Hunters- took advantage of their habit of resorting daily to
such places, and would there collect in great numbers to hunt
them. Like most huge monsters, they are not quick-tem-
pered, and, until sorely provoked, are very mild and peaceable.
They shun contests with man and the lesser animals of the
forest, and are non-resistants as far as it is prudent to be.
But, once provoked, there is nothing equal to their ire. Woe
betide the unfortunate hunter who wounds without killing
them. With terrible wrath they turn upon him. They run
him down, and, with their monster hoofs, administer such
ponderous blows, that scarcely an atom of the poor fellow is
left. An early settler in Conway once barely escaped from
the hot pursuit of one by climbing into the topmost boughs
of a tall tree. After every means to bring him down was ex-
hausted which the moose could devise, he took his stand at
the foot of the tree, and through the whole of a winter's
night kept the poor man shivering in its top. The speed and
agility of these animals are almost incredible. Over
Sawyer's Rock one sprang at a leap, and bounded away on
the other side. One, passing up the valley above the
'• Crawford House," during the deep snows of winter, chanced
to meet a horse and sleigh, containing a man and his wife.
One must turn out. Yery kindly the moose, perceiving how
difficult it would be for the man to do it, and not wishing to
do it himself, jumped over the whole concern, horse, sleigh,
man and woman.
166 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
Kot far from this little pond is a high, craggy ledge, far up
whose inaccessible side, on a shelf of the rock, an eagle for
many years built her nest, and reared her young. The fierce
mother became a terror to the region, and many a bold heart
has quailed at her scream. Her nest, consisting of sticks and
twigs woven strongly together with rushes, measured more
than two yards square. No hunter dared attack her alone.
Jackson is rich in mineral resources. Iron ore exists in
inexhaustible quantities on Bald-face Mountain, between the
rocky branch of the Saco and Ellis river in Bartlett, near
the south line of the town of Jackson.
Bald-face Mountain rs composed of granite, having a few
dykes of greenstone trap cutting through its midst. The
elevation at which the iron ore occurs is fourteen hundred and
four feet above the rocky branch of the Saco, and about one
mile distant. One of the veins at the upper opening meas-
ures thirty-seven feet in width in an east and west, and
sixteen feet in a north and south, direction.
-The second opening, two hundred feet lower down the slope
of the hill, exposes the ore, maintaining the same width. Three
hundred feet lower down the vein is observed to narrow, and
is but ten feet wide; and four hundred feet further down
the width increases to fifty-five feet.
Five hundred and forty-six feet lower still there is a small
opening, or cave, twenty feet deep, where the ore narrows
again. A small quantity of bog iron ore has also been dis-
covered, five miles north from Chesley's Tavern, in the midst
of the forest.
Near the house of Captain J. Trickey occur several dykes
of greenstone trap, which are so highly charged with carbo-
nate of lime, as to efiervesce strongly with acids.
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 167
On Thorn Mountain occur several veins of magnetic iron
ore, ^vhich are contained in a kind of granite, consisting of
felspar and quartz, without any mica ; being, so far as it
respects its mineralogical composition, a porphyry ; but not
marked by squares of felspar, like a true porphyritic rock.
The iron ore is found near the top of the mountain, and on
its western side. The veins are from a few inches to two
and a half feet wide.
Tin ore -was unknown in the United States anterior to the
discovery in Jackson, and here but four veins have thus far
been discovered. Here, also, are found phosphate of iron, ar-
seniate of iron, tungstate of manganese and iron, fluor of
spar, mispickel, copper pyrites, purple copper, and a native
copper.
Jackson is bounded north by unlocated lands, and south
by Bartlett. '• It is watered principally by the two branches
of Ellis river, passing from the north, and uniting on the
southern border, near Spruce Mountain. The principal
mountain elevations are Black, Bald-face, and Thom Moun-
tains." When first settled, this town was called New
Madbury, from the fact that most of its early settlers came
from Madbury, in the lower part of the state. It retained
this name till the year 1800, when it was incorporated by
the name of Adams. Some years after, it was again changed
to Jackson, its present name. This was done to suit the
politics of the times ; all of its voters but one being for Jack-
son, when the question was whether he or Adams should be
president.
This town was first settled by Benjamin Copp. He moved
into it in 1778, and, with his family, resisted the terrors of
the wilderness quite twelve years before any other inhabitant
moved into it. During this time, his hardships and privations
168 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
must have been great. No one can well conceive of them
unless he has had some acquaintance with a forest residence.
Living at the present day amid a sparse population will not
give one such conceptions, much less will a residence in a
city or larger village do it. To be surrounded in every di-
rection by a dense forest, extending for miles, with no
neighbors to whom you might resort in times of want or sick-
ness — with no one to whom you could speak, for months, —
these form a condition in life, such as those not acquainted
with them can appreciate but poorly. Mr. Copp knew what
they were, and was the very man to meet them, being healthy,
strong and courageous in his nature. His powers of bodily
endurance were wonderful. They must have been so, or he
could never have sustained the various hardships and priva-
tions he encountered.
Poor food at best, together with seasons of scarcity for ar-
ticles of living, such as they were, must have worn him out
soon unless he had had what we sometimes call an ''iron consti-
tution." As a specimen, to illustrate his powers of bodily
endurance, it is said that he has been known often to go ten
miles to mill, with a bushel of corn on his shoulders, and
never take it oflf from the time he started from his door till
he put it down in the mill. He did the same, too, on his re-
turn home. And when he stopped to talk with any one by
the way, he seldom relieved himself of his burden. He
rested with the bag on his shoulders.
In the year 1790, five other families came into this town
from Madbury, that of Captain Joseph Pinkham, Clement
Meserve, Jonathan Meserve, John Young, and Joseph D.
Pinkham. Daniel Pinkham, then ten years of age, a son of
the first of the above named, and the builder of the road,
called by his name the " Pinkham road," thus describes the
i
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY, 169
moving of his father and his family from Madbury to Jack-
son :
'' In company with my father, mother, two brothers and
one sister, I came to the town now called Jackson, the 6th day
of April, 1790. I was then ten years of age. At that time
the snow was five feet deep on a level. There was no road
from Bartlett, about eight miles, and we travelled on the top
of the snow, which was sufficiently hard to bear us. Our
entire stock of provisions, household furniture and clothing,
was drawn upon a hand-sled.
"I remember one incident, connected with this first trip,
which shows the extent to which boys' ingenuity will go to
avoid labor. We had a hog with us, which constituted our
entire stock of animals. Thinking that this hog, though
not very well trained to the harness, might still afford us
some aid in getting the sled along, we contrived a harness
for him, and hitched him on. He worked much better than
w^e expected, and, though less fleety than the horse, and less
powerful than the ox, he did us good and sufficient service.
"Arrived at our destination, we found the log-house,
erected the autumn previous, half buried in the snow, and
had to shovel a hole through to find a door. It had no chim-
ney, no stove, no floor, and no windows, except the open
door, or the smoke-hole in the roof We built a fire-place
at one end, of green logs, and replaced them as often as they
burned out, till the snow left us, so that we could get rocks
to supply their place. We had but two chairs, and one bed-
stead. Thus we lived till the summer opened, when we moved
the balance of our furniture from Conway, where we left it
on first moving to the town."
Mr. Pinkham says, further, in regard to things generally
in the town, at the time his father moved into it : '• At the
15
170 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
earlj period of the settlement of this town, there was much
poverty, and great scarcity as to means of living. Some
families had cows, and could afford the luxury of milk-por-
ridge, while others, who had no milk, were obliged to eat
their porridge without milk, made of water and meal only.
" The river afforded trout, and these constituted a large
portion of the living for a number of families quite a length of
time. These trout were first dried in the sun, and then
roasted by the fire. When salt could be had, this was used
with them, to give them relish. But often, not only the fish
and the meat, such as they could get, were cooked and eaten
without salt, but even porridge w^as eaten without it. This
was the best they could do in relation to sustenance. For
transportation they used only hand-sleds for a number
of years. For barns they built hovels of logs covered
with bark. Want and hard labor were fiimiliar to them ; but
hope in the future sustained them, and in time they were
surrounded with sufficient luxuries of life to maka. them com-
fortable and happy."
Soon after Captain Pinkham, the father of the man giv-
ing us the above account, moved into this town, an event
transpired, near his residence, of thrilling interest. He lived
near a river. One night he heard, some distance below his
house, on the river, what he thought was the hallooing of a
bear. It resembled that of a man ; but, as it was a time
when men were seldom abroad, and as bears often halloo
very much like a man, he thought it was one of these, espe-
cially as they were plenty in the region. Acting under this
impression, he took his gun, and went out to shoot him.
Coming near to the spot whence the voice sounded, and wish-
ing not to disturb the bear, he crept softly till he came in
sight of him, as he supposed, and prepared to fire. Just at
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTOKY. 171
this instant he heard a coughing. It was a man he was pre-
paring to fire at, — a Captain Vere Rojce. He was a sur-
veyor, from Fryburg, come into town to survey some land ;
but, being late in Lis arrival, and intercepted by the river,
he went to that point on it where he was first seen, and hal-
looed for assistance to get across. Waiting for somebody to
come and aid him in crossing, he escaped the peril to his life
we have just recited. He coughed at an instant to save
him from death.
At an early period in the history of this town, one of those
terrible tornadoes passed over it, which are occasionally expe-
rienced in New England. It was so strong that scarcely
anything could stand before it. Houses and barns were lev-
elled to the ground, and trees were whirled about in the air like
sticks. Men and children were caught up and carried along
by its resistless force for many rods. Unlike most of the
other violent winds which have passed over New England,
this took place in the winter. The fearful tornado, which so
desolated ^Yarner and New London, in 1821, occurred in
September, and was preceded hy some of the hottest weather
of the season. During the prevalence of this wind in Jack-
son a most ludicrous expedient was adopted by one of its
inhabitants to save his children from being torn from him,
and borne away on its current. His house had been razed
by it to the ground. Chairs, beds, bedding, tables and chil-
dren, were all flying in the wind. Snatching his babes with
almost superhuman strength from the embraces of the rude
monster, he thrust their heads between two rails of fence,
and left them thus secured, and their le^s danorlinor in the
wind, to look after his other property. The five little chil-
dren remained fast to their fastening, and, uninjured, out-
rode the tempest.
172 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
The hill-sides in this town afford excellent grazing, and
hundreds of cattle are driven here yearly for pasturing.
The great number of sheep scattered upon the mountains
make it the principal place of resort for what bears and
wolves are yet left among these hills. Occasionally one is
killed, but rarely. Several years since, a Mr. Meserve acci-
dentally came upon one, coiled up under the roots of an up-
torn tree. His little son, a lad of some eight or ten years,
was with him, and first espied the monster. The boy could
not make out what it was, and, much frightened, retreated
precipitately to his father, exclaiming that he saw something
under the tree. Trembling through fear, he could only say
that it looked awful ugly, had great glaring eyes, and that
he guessed it was the devil. Advancing to see what it was
that had so frightened his little son, the father saw, rolled up
under the roots, a large she-bear. He had with him only a
gun loaded with a small charge of shot for a partridge.
The prize was, however, too tempting to be lost. He had
with him a huge jack-knife, which he opened and gave to
his son to reach him when he should want it. He then
fired directly into the face of the bear. ' ' The old woman
didn't like the treatment; but Meserve loaded, and gave
another dose, when the bear starting to run, he seized his
knife, jumped on to her back, caught her by the head, threw
her over, and cut her throat. She was a monstrous beast,
and so fat she could hardly waddle."
A Freewill Baptist church was formed in this town in the
year 1803. which has existed to the present time, and flour-
ished. Elder Daniel Elkins was its first minister. He was
an honest, good man, and labored much and successfully for
the good of the church and town. Nor were his labors con-
fined to these alone. For years he was a sort of bishop in
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 173
all the region. In our earlier years we have often seen his
smiling face, and heard his full, earnest voice at funerals,
and on other occasions, in Conway and Bartlett. AYe re-
member him, as he appeared at such seasons, very distinctly;
and if we could put on canvas the exact image of him, such
as now exists in our minds, we could furnish a portrait of
him true to life.
His pretensions to learning were small, and, yet, he seldom
failed to interest those truly learned, by his honest simplicity
and meekness. He can hardly be better described than in
the words of the ancient poet, Chaucer :
'* Benign he was, and wondrous diligent,
And in adversity full patient.
*****
Wide was his parish, and houses far asunder.
But he never felt nor thought of rains or thunder.
In sickness and in mischief to visit
The faithful in his parish much and oft.
Upon his feet, and in his hand a staff;
This noble example to his sheep he gave.
That first he wrought, and afterwards he taught.
Out of the gospel he the words caught,
And this figure he added yet thereto, ^
That if gold rust, what should iron do ?
And if a priest be foul, on whom we trust,
No wonder if a common man do rust.
Well ought a priest example for to give,
By his cleanness, how his sheep should live.*'
15*
CHAPTER XIII.
CONWAY.
BEAUTIFUL SCEXERY OF CONWAY. AUTUMNAL FOLIAGE. ATTRACTIONS OP
CONWAY TO HUNTERS AND EARLY SETTLERS. ELIJAU DINSMORE. EX-
PEDIENT TO KEEP FROM STARVING. STORY OF EMERY. GREAT FKE3HET.
MAPLE SUGAR. MR. WILLEY'S ENCOUNTER WITH A BEAR. STEPHEN
ALLARD's bear STORY. SCHOOLS. BOYS AND THE HOGS. CONGREGA-
TIONAL CHURCH. DR. PORTER. — BAPTIST CHURCH. CHATAUQUE. —
NORTH CONWAY. LEDGES. FAMILY BURYING-PLACE. NAMES OF THE
FAMILY DESTROYED AT THE NOTCH.
*' My own green land forever !
Land of the beautiful and brave."
" One who visits the Conway meadows, sees the original
of half the pictures that have been shown in our art-rooms
the last two years. All our landscape painters must try their
hand at that perfect gem of New England scenery. One
feels, in standing on that green plain, with the music of the
Saco in his ears, hemmed in by the broken lines of its
guardian ridges, and looking up to the distant summit of
Mount Washington, that he is not in any county of New
Hampshire, not in any namable latitude of this rugged earth,
but in the world of pure- beauty — the adytum of the temple
where God is to be worshipped, as the infinite Artist, in joy."
i
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 175
The mountains in Conway, and those on her borders, are
among the most important things pertaining to her location.
Thej help, essentially, to make her what she really is, one
of the most delightful spots on earth. They surround her,
particularly North Conway, almost as entirely as the moun-
tains surround Jerusalem. To appreciate this fully you have
but to take a position somewhere on the main road, about
three miles south of Bartlett, standing with your face to the
north. On your right will stretch up a line of mountains
from Rattlesnake Mountain, situated about south-east, to
Pequawket or Kearsarge on the north-east. Sweeping
round from this, you pass over Thom, and Double- head, and
Black Mountains, till you come, at length, to the long range
of the Motes that separate Conway from Upper Bartlett.
From this point you follow them down on your left till you
come to their terminus, a point in the heavens about south-
west from where you stand. It is a grand post of observation
to occupy at any time of the year, but keep it through the
season, and for majesty and beauty you get a view of scenes
such as can be obtained scarcely anywhere else. In winter
you will see a parapet of mountains around you, shorn, in-
deed, of their summer attractions, but still commanding your
attention from the naked and unadorned sublimity of their
appearance. Pequawket will rise up before you, like an old
sentinel who has stood his post for centuries amidst the many
lightnings and storms that have beat on his defenceless head.
On either side of him will be his companions, reposing
soberly and solemnly under their mantle of snow. In spring
you will see nature in her loveliness — the hill-tops and
mountain-sides blooming in their greenness ; and especially on
the smooth, beautiful intervales, skirting along close under
your feet, you will see grasses and flowers in such abundance
176 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
as completely to cover the surface of them -with their strong
luxuriance. In summer, you will see the plains and the val-
leys, less cheerful with swelling buds and blossoms, and fresh
leaves of trees, and plants, but fragrant with fruit, the corn-
fields ripening towards the harvest, and the golden wheat-
fields reddening for the sickle. In autumn, you may see the
sober, mournful change upon the trees, on the mountain tops
and sides, the bright green verging to the solemn carmine,
and almost every other sombre pallid hue of which an Amer-
ican forest is susceptible. The Rev. T. Starr King thus
writes to the Boston Transcript^ in the fall of 1852 :
'' The only way to appreciate the magnificence of the
autumnal forest scenery in New England is to observe it on
the hills. I never before had a conception of its gorgeous-
ness. The appearance of the mountain-sides, as we wound
between them and swept by, was as if some omnipotent magic
had been busy with the landscape. It was hard to assure
one's self that the cars had not been switched ofi'into fairy land,
or that our eyes had not been dyed with the hues of the rain-
bow. No dream could have had more brilliant or fantastic
drapery.
'' Now we would see acres of the most gaudy yellow heaped
upon a hill-side ; soon a robe of scarlet and yellow would grace
the proportions of a stalwart sentinel of the valleys ; here and
there a rocky and naked giant had thrown a brilliant scarf of
saifron and gold about his loins and across his shoulders ; and
frequently a more sober mountain, with aristocratic and un-
impeachable taste, would stand out, arrayed from chin to feet
in the richest garb of brown, purple, vermilion, and straw-
color, tempered by large spots of heavy and dark evergreen.
It did not seem possible that all these square miles of gorgeous
carpeting and brilliant upholstery had been the work of
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY, 177
one week, and had all been evoked, by the wand of frost, out
of the monotonous green which June had flung over nature.
The trees seemed to have bloomed into roses, or rather to be
each a nosegay, done up into proper shape, and waiting to be
plucked for the hand of some brobdignag belle."
Darby Field says that he " found ten falls on that (Saco)
river, to stop boats, and there were thousands of acres of rich
meadow to Pegwagget (Comvay), an Indian town." At-
tracted by the glowing accounts which hunters gave of these
" rich meadows," settlers early came to Conway from the
lower towns. The extensive tracts of intervale, from fifty to
two hundred and twenty rods wide, and extending through
the entire length of the town, were then covered with a
thick growth of white pine and maple. Game was nowhere
so plenty ; fish and fowl and animals were almost as thick as
in the jungles of Africa. Settlers came mostly from Durham
and Lee, following an easterly course until they reached the
Saco, and then going north guided by the stream. Indian
villages were thickly scattered along its banks, poor and
small, however, in comparison with the once flourishing set-
tlements of the Pequawkets. This tribe had received its
death-blow, and nothing but deep hatred was left them. Tear
alone prevented them from murdering the hardy pioneers
following up their beautiful river to take possession of the
rich huntincr-orrounds of their fathers.
o o
The first settlement was made in this town in 1764.
James and Benjamin Osgood, John Doloff and Ebenezer
Burbank, were the first settlers. Their hardships in reach-
ing their northern homes were similar to those we have
related in the history of most of these towns. One Elijah
Dinsmore and wife performed the journey in the dead of
winter, travelling on snow-shoes from Lee, a distance of eighty
178 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
miles. A huge pack contained all their furniture, which he
carried on his back. They spent their nights in the open air,
and slept, if they slept at all, upon the " cold, cold snow."
An expedient of the settlers to sustain their strength, dur-
ing times of great scarcity of provisions, is worth noticing.
A wide strap of some skin was fastened around them ; each
day, as they grew more emaciated and thin, the strap being
drawn the straiter. Often the buckle was drawn almost to
the last hole, the wearer anxiously eying and counting the
number of holes, beyond which was complete prostration.
One persevering man, named Emery, had actually buckled
into the last hole, and, hardly able to stand, tottered round,
expecting on the morrow to be unable to rise. A neighbor,
in nearly as bad a condition as himself, crept to his door, and
informed him that a moose was not far from his cabin. The
poor neighbor himself would have killed him had he had a
gun. The intelligence brought a little strength to Emery,
and could his strap be drawn a little tighter they yet might
live. They cut a new hole, and, with all their strength, the
skeleton men tightened the strengthening strap. As noiseless
as a shadow he crept out, and, steadying his aim with great
effort, killed the moose. Together the two famished men sat
down to their repast, and before the close of the following day,
it is said, their straps would hardly reach round them.
In 1675 the town was granted to Daniel Foster, the
grantees agreeing to pay one ear of Indian corn each annually
for ten years. Most of the early settlers built their cabins
on the intervales along the banks of the river. They
regarded as of little consequence the Sudden rises of the
Saco until the year 1800, when the " great freshet " taught
them the folly of their course, and drove them back upon the
high land. _ Houses and barns were all swept away by thia
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 179
sudden rise of water. Water ran many feet deep over the
■whole wide intervale. On the day following the storm
houses and barns were seen sailing quietly down the current,
the cocks crowing merrily as they floated on. This storm
occasioned great loss of property.
The extensive growth of maple afforded for many years
almost the entire support of the inhabitants. Maple sugar,
in almost incredible quantities, was yearly manufactured.
These meadows have gradually been cleared of their growth,
but even to this day orchards of this noble tree may be seen
on many of the islands around which rush the waters of
the turbulent Saco. The operation of making the sugar is
so well described by the authoress of the " Backwoods of
Canada," that we extract it in this place :
" A pole was fixed across two forked stakes strong enough
to bear the weight of the big kettle. The employment during
the day was emptying the troughs and chopping wood to
supply the fires. In the evening they lit the fires, and began
boiling down the sap. It was a pretty and picturesque sight
to see the suo;ar-boilers. with their brio;ht loor-fire amonoj
the trees, now stirring up the blazing pile, now throwing
in the liquid, and stirring it down with a big ladle. When
the fire grew fierce, it boiled and foamed up in the kettle,
and they had to throw in fresh sap to keep it from running
over. When the sap begins to thicken into molasses, it is
brought to the sugar-boiler to be finished. The process
is simple ; it only requires attention in skimming,' and
keeping the mass from boiling over, till it has arrived at
the sugaring point, which is ascertained by dropping a little
into cold water. When it is near the proper consistency,
the kettle or pot becomes full of yellow froth, that dimples
and rises in large bubbles from beneath. These throw
180 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
out puffs of Steam, and when the molasses is in this stage
it is nearly converted into sugar. Those ^Yho pay great
attention to keeping the liquid free from scum, and under-
stand the precise sugaring point, will produce an article
little if at all inferior to Muscovado."
Two bear stories illustrate the life of the early inhabitants.
The first was an encounter with a bear near my father's
dwelling in Conway ; one which I faintly recollect, and one,
too, in which my father was the principal actor. "VYe give
this in the language of my eldest brother, who was the son
referred to in the description : —
" One night, in the summer of 1800, my father was
waked from his sleep, by the noise of the sheep running furi-
ously by his house. Springing from his bed to a window,
he discovered, by the light of the moon, an enormous bear
in close pursuit of them. Calling me instantly, then a boy
about fourteen years old, we sallied forth with the gun, and
nothing on but our night-clothes, to pursue this fell destroyer.
By this time the sheep had made a turn, and were coming
down toward the house, with the bear at their heels. Secret-
ing ourselves a moment in a shed back of the house, until
the sheep had passed, my father sprang forth with his gun.
Old bruin, stopping to see what his ghostly visitor meant,
was instantly fired at, and severely wounded. My father and
myself, with our axes, ofiered him a closer combat, and he
readily accepted the challenge. After two or three charges,
we considered it the better part of valor to retreat to the
house, which we did, closely pursued by the bear. While
we were in the house, reloading the gun, the enraged animal
crept up to the window, near the head of my father's bed.
My mother, supposing the bear to be on the other side of the
house, in attempting to look out through the window, put her
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 181
head within a few inches of his nose. On discovering her per-
ilous situation, she gave one of those piercing female shrieks
which make the welkin ring, and fell back on the floor. By
this time we had reloaded the gun, and now issued forth
to renew the combat. But, owing to the bad state of the
powder, we were unable to fire the gun again. Perceiving
the bear to be gaining strength, and showing signs of an in-
tention to retreat to the woods, after a few moments' consult-
ation, we determined to make another desperate effort to kill
him with our axes. My father, after receiving strong
assurances that I would stand by him, approached the bear
the second time, and drove the axe into his head up to the
eye, and so finished him." This was a remarkable bear for
size and boldness. He measured fourteen inches between his
ears, was nine feet long from his nose to his tail. Though lean,
he weighed seventy -five pounds a quarter. It was judged
at the time that, if he had been fat, he would have weighed
six hundred pounds. Instead of travelling in the woods, as
most do, when he went from place to place, he often travelled
in the public highway. On the very night in which my
father had the encounter with him, and killed him, he was
met by a man on horseback, on the main road."
A mile south of Conway Corner, on the road to Eaton, a
small hill rises up very abruptly from a little pond of water.
An early settler of Albany, a stout, athletic man, was ascend-
ing this hill one intensely dark night. Near the summit, he
came suddenly and unawares into the warm embrace of a
big bear. The bear, more on the alert than himself, had
snuffed his approach, and, to give him a cordial welcome,
had risen on her hind legs and spread out her fore ones.
The man immediately knew his antagonist, and a regular con-
test in wrestling commenced between the two. The bear
16
182 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN niSTORY.
hugged, and the man tripped. By a dexterous trip, he at
last threw the bear from her feet, and the two went down
together. The hill w^as so steep that they commenced to roll
over, first one top, and then the other, nothing stopping them
until they tumbled splash into the pond. Crawling wet out
of the water, neither felt inclined to renew the contest. The
name of this man was Stephen Allard, a kind, peaceful citi-
zen, or else certainly the neighborhood to him could never
be an object of desire.
A view of some of the schools of our boyhood so well
illustrates the difficulties and privations of the first settlers in
educating their children, that we can but refer to them. "VYe
presume other towns might have afforded instances of as great
or greater disadvantages than this town ; but let Conway
speak for the "whole.
The first that now occurs to us was kept, literally, in a.
small opening in the woods. To reach it, most of the schol-
ars had always to go in paths cut through the thick forest,
and in "bad weather" on sleds drawn by oxen ; and when,
by such means, they reached the house of instruction, it was
very poor, and illy adapted to the end for which it was de-
signed. It was contracted in dimensions, and rude in its
construction. The walls were built of rough hemlock logs,
grooved together at their ends, and covered with the bark of
trees, and rude boards. The something that answered for a
fire-place and chimney was constructed with poor bricks and
rocks, together with sticks, laid up so as to form what was
called a "catting," to guide the smoke. It was lighted by
panes of glass placed singly in its wall. Rude, however, as
it was in structure, many a contest in " spelling and cipher-
ing" has taken place within its walls; and many tears have
been shed, and bursts of applause shaken the very bark on
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 183
its roof, at the successful performance of the "Conjurer,"
and " Neighbor Scrape well."
Another school, and the last we shall specify, to illustrate
the general character of schools half a century since, was
kept, about that time, near the place of my birth. It was
kept by a veteran teacher, peculiar in his habits and aspect,
keen, fearless, and practised in his business. He kept in a
house we shall not describe at great length. In a few words,
it was contracted in its dimensions, uninviting in its general
appearance, and open on its walls and floor, so that both the
light and the winds of heaven could pass freely through it.
Under the house the hoojs had as free access as the lio;ht and
the winds of heaven had into it above. This was their cher-
ished place of resort ; and they were there, too, every day,
as regularly as the scholars were to the school. They greatly
annoyed the teacher, but were as acceptable to most of the
scholars as they were troublesome to him. Many were the
scenes of amusement, daring that school, which took place
with these hogs. Sometimes, after lying and rolling on the
ground awhile, grunting and growding as they rooted each
other's sides, they would rise up, and, brushing along under
the floor, carry their bristles up through the large cracks
into plain sight of the scholars. Seeing these, one of them
would creep along, when the master's eye was turned, and
give them a sharp pull. Then immediately would come a
squeal, and after that sharp words from the teacher. " Boys !
let those hogs alone : mind your studies." For a moment
they would put their faces into their books, and seem content;
but they wouldn't "stay put." There was a working of
humor that must be gratified, and now was a good time to
gratify it. Presently the bristles would be seen moving
along again in the crack of the floor, and then would follow
184 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
another pull, and then immediately another squeal. Now
■would come stronger, sterner words from the teacher.
"Boys! I say, let those hogs alone. If you don't, I'll
give it to you!" This, it might seem, would stop them, and
it did seem to affect them awhile. But still the itching in
them for fun -was not yet allayed. Their fingers worked
nervously to be hold of those bristles again, and provoke
another squeal. Nor did they wait long before another op-
portunity came to indulge their craving. Soon the bristles
appeared again, and then came another pull, and immedi-
ately another squeal. Now things became more serious, and
the teacher must put more authority and power into his
words than he had in either of the preceding cases. " Con-
sumption, boys!" — that was the word he often used — " Con-
sumption, boys ! what do you mean ? If you don't let these
hogs alone I'll tan your jackets for you ! I '11 make your
backs smoke ! "
The eS,rly settlers of Conway, true to the puritan spirit of
their fathers, under which they were trained, were not un-
mindful of religious and moral institutions. They took
seasonable means toward planting these among them, for the
benefit of themselves and their descendants after them.
A Congregational church was formed in this" town, Octo-
ber 28th, 1778, consisting of Timothy Walker, Abiel Love-
joy, Thomas Russell and Eichard Eastman. Soon after its
formation, Noah Eastman, Abiathar Eastman, with their
wives and others, were added to it. Rev. Nathaniel Porter,
D. D., was the first pastor of this church, installed over it
at the time of its formation. In this relation he labored
with the church and people for the space of thirty-seven
years ; and to say that he labored well through many pri-
vations and hardships, would be saying no more than we
INCIDENTS IN ^YHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 185
ought to saj. It is not the place here to attempt any extended
view of his ministerial character. That has been given
already, hetter than we can give it in this place. We have
the opportunity, however, to say a few things respecting him
here, and our heart would reproach us if we did not say
them. We knew him well, being for a season his colleague
in the ministry. And we knew him only to admire him ; his
keen, sharp eye, and his sharper intellect ; his salient wit ;
his original thoughts, exhibited in conversation or writing ;
and, above all, his manifested regard, in every place, for what
was the plain teaching and design of the Bible. He was a
doctor, made such by one of the most discriminating, learned
institutions in the land. The title was well conferred. He
deserved it, not because he studied books very extensively,
but because he read the few choice ones he had carefully ;
not because he studied classics much, or the fathers, but be-
cause he studied nature in the forests, in the grand moun-
tains surrounding him, together with his own heart, and the
hearts of others, especially in the light of God's revealed
truth. Doctor Porter was poor through all his life, often,
for the want of other lights, writing his sermons by the blaze
of pitch knots. In going to his meetings on the Sabbath,
which were always miles from his home, he generally went,
in early times especially, on horseback, often facing a stiff
north-west wind. The same was true in relation to the fune-
rals he attended, and his weddings, and his visitings. He never
knew much about the luxury of an easy carriage. To this
it may be owing, partly at least, that he lived to so great an
age — ninety-three years. In the best days of his manhood
he scarcely ever failed to impress one with the deep penetra-
tion and force of his mind. Said a preceptor of Fryburg
Academy once, " I had rather see anything come into my
16*
186 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
school than those keen, piercing eyes," referring to Doctor
Porter. "I am afraid of them." This he said, not because he
especially disliked him, but because, in connection with a
few others, the doctor was deputed by the trustees to visit
his school, and correct some of its irregularities. This im-
pression had of him, by the preceptor, from a slight acquaint-
ance, w^ould be deepened by a larger intercourse with him.
This would affect you with a feeling similar to that possessed
by the poet, when he said, referring to a certain person,
" He is a man of grave and earnest mind.
Of -warm heart, yet ■with a sense of duty —
As how he must employ his powerful mind —
That drives all empty trifles from his brain.
And bends him sternly o'er his solemn tasks ;
Things nigh impossible are plain to him.
His trenchant will, like a fine-tempered blade.
With upturned edge, cleaves through the baser iron."
A Baptist church was formed in this town, August 26th,
1796. Among their ministers have been Kichard Ransom
Smith, father of the present Mayor of Boston ; Roswell
Mears, and others.
There are two villages in Conway. Chatauque, or Con-
way Corner, is a small village situated near the junction of
the Saco and Swift rivers. It commands a fine prospect of
Mount Washington and the other White Mountains, which
are distinctly seen up the valley of the Saco. A splendid
and capacious hotel, called the " Conway House," has re-
cently been opened here. It is under the charge of Mr.
Eastman. It is not surpassed by any hotel in the state.
North Conway, five miles further north, is pleasantly situ-
ated near the beautiful intervales of the Saco. Many fami-
lies resort to this village, in order to avoid the noise, bustle
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 187
and expense of the large hotel. This village is also the
favorite resort for artists. Pequawket Mountain is ascended
from this place. There are several fine hotels. On the
western bank of the Saco, opposite North Conway, are two
very high mountain ledges. The most northerly, sometimes
called "Hart's Looking-glass," rises up about perpendicular
six hundred and fifty feet. The other is nine hundred
and fifty feet high. They stand on a level fine plain, and
rise up so abruptly that you can ride to their very base.
One of them is so interspersed with white quartz and bushes,
as to present the illusion of a white horse ascending its side.
Hence it is known as the '• White Horse Ledge."
" One cannot help being struck, at North Conway, with
its capacity of improvement. It might be made as lovely a
spot as it is possible for this planet to hold. If some duke
or merchant prince, with his unlimited income, could put
the resources of landscape taste upon it, gem it with cottages,
hedge ofi* the farms upon the meado^ys, span the road with
elms, cultivate the border hills as far up as there is good soil,
the village might be macle a new Eden. Or even if the in-
habitants would consent to remove their barns from the most
sightly places, tear down the fences from the intervale, and
sod the sandy banks that fret and heat the eye on a sultry
day when it turns towards the cool verdure below, the gen-
eral efiect would be vastly better. The beauty of the place
is measured by the fact that people so seldom notice the
entire lack of everything like taste which is shown in the
arrangement of the houses and grounds.
On the boundary between Conway and Bartlett, near the
homestead of my father, on the high bank overlooking the
intervale and the Saco, is the burying-place of my family.
Here rest the remains of the bodies of my brother's family
188
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
recovered from the avalanche. In one wide grave they sleep,
— father, and mother, and two children. Three yet sleep
among the ruins of the storm. A broad stone near the en-
trance of the yard marks their resting-place. The following
are the names of those destroyed
Samuel Willey, jr., aged
Polly L. Willey,
Eliza Ann,
Jeremiah L.
Martha G.,
Elbridge G.,
Sally,
David Nickerson,
David Allen,
88
35
13
11
9
7
5
21
37
Two first, parents ; five next, children ; two last, hired men.
The three first and three last have been found.
CHAPTER XIV.
FRYBURG.
THE mPORTAXCE OF FRYBURG IN EARLY TIMES. THE GRANT OF TOWN TO
GEN. FRYE. — CONDITIONS OF THE GRANT. — FIRST SETTLERS. THEIR
HARDSHIPS. OLIVER PEABODY. INDIANS. SABATIS. — ENCOUNTER
•NVITH A CATAMOUNT. LOVE OF THE WATER. — INDIANS' LOVE FOR MR.
FESSENDEN. OLD PHILIP. FRYBURG. EXPEDITION TO SHELBURNE.
FRYBURG ACADEMY. BUILDINGS. PRECEPTORS. — PAUL LANGDON.
DANIEL WEBSTER. AMOS J. COOK. — REV. WILLIAM FESSENDEN. :MA-
RION LYLE HURD.
" Where the hunter of deer and the warrior trod."
Frtburu -was. ill early times, the principal, and, in fact,
the only village of the White Mountains. It was, for long
years, the centre whence came all the fashions, and to which
tended all the trade. Its favorable situation, in respect to
the seaboard towns, and the rapidity with which the village
grew, gave it great prominence in its early days. Every neigh-
borhood and settlement sent its representatives, weekly, to
the village, to trade, and its one long street was then a busy
scene of bustle and activity. Unlike most of our villages, it
sprang up, in a comparatively few years, to its full size. It
stands on a broad, level plain, slightly elevated above the
intervales of the Saco, which encloses it in one of its huge
190 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
folds. On a broad, straight, beautiful sheet the village is
principally built.
The "old Province of Maine," says Williamson, the
king had no right to give away. But, in violation of all
riglit, he did give to Gen. Joseph Frye a grant of land since
called Fryburg, from its grantee. Gen. Frye had been an
officer in the king's army, and received the grant in con-
sideration of his gallant deeds on the frontiers. He had been
at Fort William Henry, and escaped, with the gallant
Monro, the fearful carnage which cast such a stain upon the
honor of Montcalm. He was an officer in command of a
company, and, it has been faintly hinted, opposed the sur-
render of the fort. On his return he was presented with an
elegant silver-mounted sword and tankard.
The grant was made in the year 1762. The conditions of
the grant -^ere that he should give bond to the province
treasurer i:o have the township settled with sixty good fimi-
lies, each of which should have built, within the term of
five years, a good house, twenty feet by eighteen, and seven
feet stud, and have cleared seven acres for pasturage or till-
age. He should reserve one sixty-fourth of the township for
the first Protestant minister, one sixty-fourth for a parson-
age forever, one sixty-fourth for a school fund forever, one
sixty-fourth for Harvard College forever. A Protestant min-
ister was to be settled in the township within ten years.
The first settler was a Mr, Nathaniel Smith, a sort of
squatter^ led hither of his own free will and inclination. His
cabin was reared, and his family moved into it the year suc-
ceeding the grant, in the summer of 1763. In the fall of
this year, influenced by the glowing representations of Gen.
Frye, came Samuel Osgood, Moses Ames, John Evans, and
Jedediah Spring, from Concord, N. H. "Their path,"
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 191
saj'S a true son of Frjburg, '^ -was through the T\'Ood3 for
sixty or seventy miles. For this distance no friendly house
of entertainment on the way, in -which to rest their weary
limbs, or satisfy the demands of appetite — no, not even the
hut of an humble peasant could be seen.
These were they who encQiintered the hardships, the
fatigues, the sufferings, the losses attendant on the first set-
tlers of a land so remote from the benefits of knowledge and
refinement — who enjoyed the fruits of friendship even in
society so narrow in its bounds — who established themselves
in the bosom of an extensive wilderness, and constituted the
first civil family on its desolate plain.
In this romantic retreat, from these small beginnings, a
beautiful village has arisen ; and the population of it and the
surrounding country Ifas been beyond calculation. To those
venerable fathers, therefore,
"Patient of toil ; serene amidst alarms ;
Inflexible in faith ; invincible in arms ; ' '
to those worthy matrons, who, with heroic courage, and
fortitude of soul, set hardships and dangers at defiance, who
raised with tender, fostering care, a race of hardy sons : to
their spirit of patriotism are we indebted, next to Divine
Providence, for the enjoyment of this goodly land.
The nearest ivhite neighbors whom they, for a long time,
had. were at Saco ; and, even with those there were no
means of communication. Sanford was their place of resort
to obtain those articles of necessity which they could not
forego ; and this was nearly sixty miles off. The only mode
of conveyance was on horses, and their guides were the
marked trees of the forest. If there our fathers were
parched with drouth, the sallying spring would slake their
192 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
thirst. If their stomachs craved food, the cold luncheon
of beef or venison would satisfy the appetite. If their
weary limbs demanded repose, the moist ground was the
bed on which it was sought, and on which it was usually-
found.
After the settlement began, the town settled very rapidly.
Among the long list of proprie.tors, we find the name of that
almost ubiquitous person, Oliver Peabody, w^ho seems to
have had a hand in settling most of the towns in this region.
A deed of rights of two sixty-fourths he obtained ; one
sixty-fourth better off than most of those who helped to
settle only this town.
This was a favorite resort of the Indians ; and, for many
years after the dispersion of the Pequawket tribe, solitary
members continued to linger around their old home. Old
Philip, Sabatis, Tom Hegon, and Swarson, are familiar
names with the old people yet. Sabatis was a great favor-
ite with the whites, and many are the stories yet told of him.
A little cross, we think, at times, perhaps when in liquor ;
for we have heard it said that sometimes he had to sleep out
doors. The old man was a hydropathist, and always slept
on such occasions with his feet in water. He was a little
timid withal, and the sudden appearance of any wild animal
when alone, especially during the last years of his life,
would set his teeth to chattering quite merrily. A catamount
caused him a dreadful fright ; the adventure with which he
chattered off in broken English to every one who would listen
to his story. The huge fellow lay couched in a tree, and the
first that Sabatis saw was his fierce eyeballs glaring full
upon him. ''Me hold up the gun," said he; "but me
tremble so, afraid to fire ; me take the gun down. Then
me try it again. Hold up, but still tremble so, afraid to fire.
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 193
Afraid the gun would not go; or, if it did go, that I
should n't hit. So me greatly troubled about it. Afraid to
go away and leave her, cause then she jump on me ; so must
fire, or be killed. Dreadfully troubled ; so me try it. By
and by, hold up the gun little more steady; not so much
tremble. Then I more steady, and fire. Catamount drop.
Slie no come upon me."
Another of his hydi-opathic tricks was swimming among
the cakes of ice, as they came down the Saco in the cold
waters of the spring, diving among them, and coming up
crying, "See otter! See otter!" The boys admired old
Sabatis.
The Rev. Mr. Fessenden was very popular with the
Indians. His son says he has seen a dozen cooking their
meat in his father's fire-place at once.
" His house was known to all the vagrant train,
He chid their wanderings, but relieved their pain."
Major Rogers was aided in his expedition against St.
Francis by old Philip, and by the few Pequawkets, of whom
he was chief During that expedition, two little Indian boys
were captured by Philip and his Indians, one of whom was
named Sabatis, the same probably referred to above. Old
Philip joined the American army during the revolution,
saying "he was a whig Indian." Swanson, a companion
of Philip, was of such service to the American cause, that
he was presented with an elegant sword.
At the time of the " Shelburne massacre," which we have
given at length in the chapters on Shelburne and Segar's
narrative, when the settlers seemed just on the eve of being
all butchered by the savages, a man was dispatched to Fry-
burg in hot haste for assistance. Xobly did the gallant
17
194 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
little settlement respond to the call. The messenger arrived
at Fryburg a little past noon; immediately two men
mounted their horses, and, proceeding up both banks of the
Saco, summoned all the men, ^vith their guns, to repair at
once to the house of one Nathaniel Walker. Quickly they
assembled, and learned from the messenger the terrible fate
•u^hich seemed pending over their neighbors. When the call
was made for volunteers to march at once to their assistance,
thirty brave men stepped forward — thirty brave men, but
in no condition to undertake such an expedition. Many of
them were barefooted, some bareheaded, and a few nearly as
destitute of clothing as the foe they designed to encounter.
Before nightfall, however, the thirty men were all armed and
equipped, and comfortably prepared for the march. In long
Indian file they marched, Sabatis, the guide, leading the way,
followed by the commander, Stephen Farrington, on horse-
back. Nathaniel Walker, junior officer of the expedition,
himself on horseback, brought up the rear of the long file.
Just after dark they forded the Saco, some two miles above
the village, and, bidding adieu to their friends, struck out
into the wilderness. As the sun rose over Bethel Hill the
following morning, they reached the house of Capt. Twitch-
ell. Sabatis had already discovered the Indian trail. Stop-
ping but a few moments at Capt. Twitchell's for food, they
immediately commenced their pursuit of the savages.
The Indians had the start of them more than twelve hours ;
how they had employed these hours may be learned from
Segar's Narrative.
By the aid of Sabatis, who could track them where the
whites could see no traces whatever, the party followed the
Indians, till, coming to a rocky hill, even old Sabatis was at
feult. "Me find um quick," said the Indian, and struck
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 195
round the hill. Here they met Clark, whom the Indians
had permitted to return, on condition that he should stop
any party of whites who might pursue them, by representing
the determination of the Indians to kill the prisoners as soon
as they should find any party in pursuit.
But the men would not be persuaded ; their blood was up,
and, though Clark told them they could not reach the In-
dians till every prisoner was slain, they would not yield.
The party, old Sabatis having found the track, pushed on.
They soon found the piece of spruce hark pegged on to a
hemlock tree, to which Segar has thus referred :
" Here an Indian pulled off some spruce bark, untied my
hands, and told me to write that, if ever we were overtaken
by Americans, they, the Indians, would kill the prisoners.
This bark he stuck on a tree, and then bound my hands
again."
Still, Captain Farrington was for passing on, but at length
yielded to the unanimous voice of the men, who voted to
return. '' We came back," says one of the company, '' bur-
ied poor Pettingill, staid over night at Eethel, and the next
day returned to Fryburg."
What a truly heroic expedition, when we consider the cir-
cumstances ! A little settlement, less than twenty years
of age, fifty miles in the forest, that had already spared the
flower of its strength for the army, gathers, in less than
half a day's notice, a corps of thirty men. This little band
plunges into the woods at nightfall, and, after a hard night's
march, follows the trail of a wily, savage foe, that has
marked his track with devastation and blood, and are per-
suaded to give up the pursuit only when convinced that it
will be an injury rather than a benefit to those whom they
would succor.
196 INCIDENTS IN \VIIITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
*'In November, 1791, a grammar-school was established
in Fryburg, -which, in February, 1792, was incorporated with
academic privileges, and endowed by the legishiture of the
commonwealth of Massachusetts with twelve thousand acres
of land. By the vigilance and instrumentality of the trustees,
these lands have become productive, and the funds thus arising
secured, in most instances, according to human calculation,
beyond a possibility of failure, including the tuition of the
students, give an annual interest of nine hundred dollars."
The first building was but little larger, or of much higher
finish, than the ordinary school-houses of the times. After
that, a more costly, spacious, and fitting structure was reared.
This stood quite a long season, but at length, some ten years
ago, was burnt down. Near the spot where this stood" there
is now a building, reared at great expense, not inferior in any
respect to its predecessor, perhaps superior on the whole,
■which we hope will remain for a long time to come the light
and ornament of the place where it stands.
The first preceptor of Fryburg Academy was Paul Lang-
don, son of Doctor Samuel Langdon, once president of
Harvard University. He was a good scholar, and graduated
with the highest honors of that ancient and learned institu-
tion. Few ever left it leaving behind them a higher
reputation for intellect and mental acquirements. He bid
fair to mark a brilliant course in life. Bat things that
promise most in the outset do not always succeed best in the
end. The destroyer often lingers around the fairest flower
in our gardens. It was so in his case. The habit of drink-
ing freely intoxicating drinks, formed in early life, darkened
his worldly prospects, and checked his opening career of
greatness. This was his easily-besetting sin, beguiling him
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN niSTORY. 197
in his professional course, and one but for -^'hich he might
have filled as splendid a page in history as any other man.
Soon after leaving college he was induced to go and take
charge of Fryburg Academy, his friends hoping, by remov-
ing him from the temptations of Portsmouth to such a quiet
retreat as Fryburg, to break up this habit. But he disap-
pointed them. He found rum in Fryburg, as he had in
Portsmouth and Cambridge, and drank it. This rendered
him unfit, at times especially, for the proper management
of his school. The trustees of the Academy for a long time
bore with him, and sought to save him by counsel and admo-
nition ; but all to no purpose. At length, after many trials,
when forbearance ceased to be a virtue, they discharged him.
After this he occasionally taught public town-schools in the
vicinity of Fryburg. He was employed on condition that
he should drink only a certain quantity of spirits per day.
This was dealt out to him by his employers, and he assented
to it all cheerfully. He was willing to be in the hands of
others, knowing that he was not capable of governing him-
self. It was in one of these schools that I first became
acquainted with him, and acquired all the knowledge of him,
by personal intercourse, I ever had. I never saw him
after that school closed; but, during that school, I acquired
impressions of him, as a teacher and a man, such as time
never can efface. These were all of the happiest character.
Even his occasionally leaning to folly cannot essentially
darken them, more especially because he never justified him-
self in any errings from this source, but always lamented
them. His manner and spirit as an instructor were such as
to make almost every one admire him. Many times, as he has
stood over me while reciting some lessons, have I felt the magic
of his tone and action. His deep, earnest breathing I can
17*
198 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
now seem almost to hear. His long fore-finger, he used to
say, humorously, had a good deal of Latin and Greek in it ;
and the manner he used it certainly gave force to the remark.
It did seem to me that the presence of that fore-finger aided
me in my recitations.
Mr. Lano;don, throun;h most of his life, with a laro;e fam-
ily on his hands, struggled hard with poverty. At length
his sons grew up, and, going into successful business, fur-
nished him with a plentiful home in the state of New York.
Thither he removed from Fryburg, near the close of his
life, reforming entirely his habit of drinking ; and, professing
religion, he died, after a few years, under its inspiring con-
solations.
Daniel Webster succeeded him in the Academy, though not
immediately, where he taught nine months. Of him we
need say but little here, as the world is full of his fame.
That little- shall be that, comparatively, his success as a
teacher was much inferior to that in the law and in the
forum. He was eminent in the latter sphere, but just re-
spectable in the former. If he had pursued the business
of instructing, and made it the main occupation of his life,
we should probably never have heard of him much beyond
the precincts of the school-room.
Amos J. Cook was his successor. He continued in the
place of preceptor for years. Under his care the Academy
grew in reputation and numbers ; it drew in scholars from
a wide circle of towns. When we first entered it, fifty years
ago, there were scholars in it from all the larger towns on
the nearest seaboard.
Mr. Cook was a good man. Some prize smart men very
much ; they think it a great thing to say of a man, he is
shrewd in his movements. And, indeed, these are not unim-
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 199
portant qualities in a person. But, if we must make distinc-
tions in the traits of a man's character, or give prominence
to any of them, let it be one of a moral, solid nature. If
the question be, Shall v^e look merely for smartness or good-
ness in a man ? we say, give us goodness. Now, Mr. Cook
was not at all deficient in proper smartness or intellect ; he
had enough of these to make him a good teacher. The dis-
tinguishing thing about him, however, was goodness ; we do
not say perfection of character, — one entirely free from
moral infirmity or weakness, — but prevailmg conformance
to the rules of moral rectitude in conduct and feeling. He
always carried about with him an apparent deep regard for
what was due to God and his fellows. We never saw him
but when reverence to the one and kindness to the others
were clearly marked on his face ; and we never heard any-
thing of him but what indicated a deeply kind and forgiving
disposition of soul.
In October, 1774, the Rev. William Fessenden was invited
to settle in the town ; the invitation was accepted, and, in
October, 1775, he was ordained to the work of the ministry.
This good man, says a correspondent, continued for many
years in a happy union with his people. When he became
the minister of Fryburg 'the town was new, with but few
inhabitants, and the most of these in indigent circumstances.
The sum agreed upon as a compensation for his services was
small — less, I think, than two hundred dollars per annum ;
and this pittance, in consequence of the poverty incident to
the people of a new settlement, was never promptly or fully
paid. With a young and increasing family depending upon
him for food and raiment, the first years of his ministry were
years of severe toil, hardship, and privation. He cleared
and cultivated a little farm, and studied his sermons, as best
200 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
he could, while his hands were employed in procuring means
of subsistence for his household, and in hours which should
have been given to sleep. His library at this time was small
indeed, consisting of the Bible, and perhaps a volume or two
of theology and history. I think it might all have been
carried in a common-sized satchel.
The book of Inspiration he daily and carefully studied,
and from it learned his theology, and drew most of the argu-
ments and illustrations which he used to establish and elu-
cidate the truths which he inculcated in his public discourses,
As a speaker, his manner was dignified and graceful, his
voice clear, commanding, and musical.
He was courageous, energetic, and persevering. I think
the most prominent traits of his character were benevolence,
integrity, and frankness. He was generous almost to a fault.
He ever kept open doors, and always bade a hearty welcome
to all the hospitalities he was able to furnish ; not merely to
acquaintances and friends, but to the stranger and passing
traveller, and all who sought a temporary asylum under his
roof.
" The long-remembered beggar was his guest,
Whose beard, descending, swept his aged breast ;
The broken soldier, kindly bade to stay,
Sat by his fire and talked the night away."
Our Sunday school libraries contain the life of a little
girl, daughter of the present minister of Fryburg, and a
native of this town. Marion Lyle Hurd is the most won-
derful instance of precocious development on record. Though
but four years and twenty-one days old when^she died, her
conversation and deportment were more like that of one four-
teen, than one so young. The books of her library were the
following, as given by her father, near the commencement of
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 201
her fourth year. ^' They "were a Bible and Testament,
Childs Book on Repentance, Life of Moses, Family Hymns,
Union Hymns, Daily Food, Lessons for Sabbath Schools,
Henry Milner, Watts' Divine Songs, Nathan W. Dicker-
man, Todd's Lectures to Children, and Pilgrim's Progress.'^
These, with her various other books, were kept during the day
in one part of the room in which she slept, and in the midst of
them she passed hours daily ; and at night she would carefully
gather them up in her boxes, and place them beside her bed.
She began to compare ideas in her mind obtained from her
reading ; to exercise the reasoning faculties, and to make
inferences ; and often did her countenance indicate a reflect-
ing and thoughtful state of mind. Sometimes it was said to
her, '' Tell me of what you are thinking." Once, observing
her in this state of mind, the question was put, " Marion,
what are you thinking about? "
"lam thinking," she said, "whether the angels have
wings ! "
" Well, what do you think of it? "
"I think they have; for Apollyon, who fought with
Christian, had wings ; and, if wicked angels have wings
to do hurt with, good ones must have, to do good with."
Passages innumerable might be quoted, showing her re-
markable maturity ; but one more must suffice.
Her reading and love of poetry, probably, led Marion to
attempt clothing her own thoughts in a kind of poetic dress.
This she began to do. Sometimes, at the table, she would
utter one or two lines, and then, covering her face, would
say,
" John is laugbing at me."
This she could not endure. Very frequently the other
children would say to us,
202 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
'^ Hark ! hark ! hear Marion's rhymes."
Some of these are still remembered ; and, to show the
operations of her mind, and the mental efforts she was putting
forth during the last month of her life, we give you an ex-
ample or two.
Marion, at times, anticipated the return of summer, when
she could go out and gather flowers, and wished that the
winter was over, asking how long before the spring and the
birds would come. On one of these occasions she said :
" By and by the spring will come,
And flowers again will bloom ;
To the woods and fields I '11 run,
And gather flowers till noon."
The following was addressed to her doll :
' ' My darling little miss,
How good you 've been to-day ;
I '11 give you a sweet good kiss,
■ And lay you snug away."
Reference has been made to the strong attachment Marion
felt toward those little girls who were her companions at
school ; and to be separated so much from their society, as
she necessarily was in winter, was a painful sacrifice to her
feelings. Often, the last winter, would she amuse herself
by weaving their names into rhyme ; and, in her way, sing-
ing them over, as she was engaged among her books and
playthings. The following are productions of this kind :
*' Anna, Sarah, Abby,
And dear Louisa too ;
Who have been in to-day.
To ask me how I do ;
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 203
I send my love to you,
This cold and wintry day ;
'Tis faithful love and true,
'Twill never die away.
For you I make this song ;
With me to school you went ;
And fast we ran along, —
On learning we were bent.
I've pretty things to see,
And many things to say ;
So come and visit me
When mothers come to pray ! '•
CHAPTER XV.
lovewell's fight.
VIEW FROM PEQUAWKET MOUNTAIN. LOVETTELL'S POND. — SUFFERINGS
OF TIIE EARLY SETTLERS IN DUNSTABLE. EXPEDITION TO "WINNIPIS-
EOGEE LAKE. — EXPEDITION OF LOVEWELL TO PEQUAWKET. HIS COM-
PANY. ENCAMPMENT ON THE SHORE OF THE POND. SITUATION OP
THE INDIAN VILLAGE. " CARRYING-PL^CE." DISCOVERY OF THE FIRST
INDIAN. KILL THE INDIAN. THE BATTLE: RETREAT OF LOVEWELL'S
MEN. CHAMBERLAIN AND PAUGUS. — COUNCIL AT NIGHT. RETREAT.
ENSIGN "WYMAN AND COMPANIONS. MR. FRYE. — JONES. FAR\VELL AND
DAVIS. TRACES OF THE BATTLE. — THE OLD BALLAD.
♦• Nor, Lovewell, was thy memory forgot,
Who through the trackless wild thy heroes led.
Death and the dreadful torture heeding not,
Mightst thou thy heart-blood for thy country shed,
And serve her living, honor her when dead.
0, Lovewell ! Lovewell I nature's self shall die.
And o'er her ashes be her requiem said,
Before New Hampshire pass thy story by.
Without a note of praise, without a pitying eye."
Standing upon the summit of Pequawket Mountain, one
beholds in the south-east, and apparently but a short distance
from the base of the mountain, the beautiful village of Fry-
burg, encircled by the circuitous "windings of the Saco.
Directly beyond, and in the immediate neighborhood of the
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 205
village, lies Love weir s Pond, the scene of one of the
bloodiest combats in the Indian history of New England.
It is a small pond, embosomed amid slightly elevated hills,
and with thickly wooded shores. It contains two or three
islands, and the quiet stillness of its waters but little reminds
you of the terrible encounter which once took place upon its
borders.
Throughout the year 1724 the Indians had been more,
than commonly bold and savage. The more exposed settle-
ments were in constant alarm and excitement, from their
almost daily depredations and barbarous massacres. The
Massachusetts General Court, startled by the sad reports
which were continually being brought to them, had passed
a bill, offering a bounty of <£100 for every Indian's scalp.
Dunstable, one of the border towns of Massachusetts, was
much exposed, and had suffered greatly from the attacks of
the Indians. In September of this year, the Indians had
carried away two men, and killed nine of the ten men who
had gone out in search of the missing ones. Farwell, who
afterward accompanied Lovewell on his expedition to Fry-
burg, was the only one of his company of ten who escaped
with his life. Among the numerous expeditions from this
town, those commanded by one Captain John Lovewell seem
to be the most successful.
"In December," succeeding the September above, ''he
made an expedition, with a foAv followers, to the north-east of
Winnipiseogee Lake, in which he killed one, and took another
prisoner. For these he received the bounty offered by govern-
ment." But the most important excursion that Lovewell
made, previous to the one to Fryburg, in which he was
killed, was that to the head of Salmon Falls river, now
Wakefield, in New Hampshire, in February, 1725. Of
18
206 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
this, Drake says : '• With forty men, he came upon a small
company of ten Indians, \yho were asleep by their fires, and,
by stationing his men advantageously, he killed all of them.
This bloody deed was performed near the shore of a pond,
which has ever since borne the name of Love well's Pond.
After taking off their scalps, these forty warriors marclied to
Boston in great triumph, with the ten scalps extended upon
hoops displayed in the Indian manner, for which th(;y re-
ceived <£1000. This exploit was the more lauded, as it was
supposed that these ten Indians were upon an expedition
against the English upon the frontiers; having new guns,
much ammunition, and spare blankets and moccasons, to ac-
commodate captives. This, however, was mere conjecture ;
and whether they had killed friends or enemies was not
quite so certain as that they had killed Indians."
The last and most memorable expedition, commanded by
Captain Lovewell, left Dunstable on Friday, April 16th,
1725, to attack the Pequawket tribe at their home on the
Saco. He had in his command forty-six men, volunteered
from the adjoining towns. It was an arduous and perilous
undertaking ; and it has been truly remarked by an old
writer, that "to attempt a march of more than one hundred
miles into the wilderness, where not a friendly hut or civil-
ized inhabitant were to be met with — where savages and
wolves were ' lords of the soil ' — where ' dangers prest on
every side,' was a desperate adventure, reserved for the
daring spirit of an intrepid Lovewell. Though he fell in the
contest, he opened a road into a wide-extended country, rich
in soil, healthy in climate ; and pointed the way to the
settlement and civilization of this pleasant and populous
country."
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 207
They proceeded up the Merrimack toward Winnipiseogee,
the direction Lovewell had taken the preceding winter.
They Avere but a short distance from Dunstable when Toby
was suddenly taken sick. He was a valuable member, and
could hardly be spared. To return, however; and wait his
recovery, or for liim to go on, were equally impossible. He was
accordingly dismissed, and with groat reluctance returned.
At the moutli of the Contoocook river, near Duston's Island,
Mr. William Cummins and a relative of his were dismissed
and returned. Mr. Cummins had been wounded some time
previous by the Indians, and the long and wearisome march
had so inflamed the wound as to make it impossible for him
to proceed. From the grounds of the powerful Pennacook,
their route lay to the north-east, and the next.we learn of them
is on the shores of Ossipee Pond. Here Mr. Benjamin
Kidder, of Nutfield, was taken sick, and they halted while
they could cT^nstruct a shelter for him till their return. They
built a small fort for '• a retreat in case of emergency, and to
serve as a deposit of part of their provisions, of which they
disencumbered themselves before leaving it." Here they left
the doctor, a sergeant, and seven other men, to take care of
Kidder. Their company was now reduced to thirty-four;
all brave men, except one, who, in the language of the Rev.
Mr. Symmes, "ran from them at the beginning of the en-
gagement, and sneaked back to the fort, and whose name is
unworthy of being transmitted to posterity." These are the
names of those brave fellows, who boldly and successfully
contended with more than twice their number, viz. : —
Captain John Lovewell, Lieutenant Josiah Farwell, Lieu-
tenant Jonathan Robbins, Ensign John Harwood, Sergeant
Noah Johnson, Robert Usher, Samuel Whiting, all of Dun-
stable. Ensign Seth Wyman, Corporal Thomas Richardson,
208 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
Timothy Richardson, Ichabod Johnson, Josiah Johnson, all
of Woburn. Eleazer Davis, Josiah Davis, Josiah Jones,
David Melvin, Eleazer Melvin, Jacob Farrah, Joseph Farrah,
all of Concord. Chaplain Jonathan Frje, of Andover.
Sergeant Jacob Fulham, of Weston. Corporal Edward Ling-
field, of Nutfield. Jonathan Kittridge, Solomon Kies, of
Billerica. John Jefts, Daniel Woods, Thomas AYoods, John
Chamberlain, Elias Barron, Isaac Lakin, Joseph Gilson, all
of Groton. Ebenezer Ayer, Abiel Aston, of Haverhill.
They were still some forty miles from the Pequawket en-
campment, all the distance through an unbroken wilderness ;
but, rested by their halt at Ossipee, and nerved on by the
hope of soon meeting the enemy, they commenced the last
stage of their lengthened march, and reached Saco pond on
Thursday, May 6th, 1725. They were now in the very
heart of the hunting-ground of Paugus. Traces of the
powerful foe they had come out to conquer coulcl be seen on
every hand. Indeed, so near did they come in their march on
Thursday to the settlement of the tribe, that the noise of the
unseen village made them apprehensive they were discovered
and dogged. They encamped upon the westerly side of the
pond, and prepared themselves for an encounter. Thirty-
four men, fifty miles from any white settlement, in the depth
of an unbroken wilderness, preparing themselves to encounter
a warlike enemy of hundreds ! Excited by the near vicin-
ity of the Indians, and undecided what course it was best to
take in attacking them, they remained at their first stopping-
place from Thursday night until Saturday morning. Friday
night they were much alarmed by the stealthy marching of
large numbers of Indians, as they thought, in their near
vicinity ; but it was very dark, and they could see nothing,
INCIDENTS IN AVHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 209
nor make any further discovery than the hushed footsteps
of these unseen foes hovering about their camp.
•* No clattering hoof falls sudden and strong ;
No trumpet is filled, and no bugle is blown ;
No banners abroad on the wind are thrown ;
No shoutings are heard, and no cheerings are given ;
But they speed, like coursers whose hoofs are shod *
With a silent shoe, from the loosened sod ;
And away they have gone, with a motionless speed,
Like demons abroad on some terrible deed.
The last one has gone ; they have all disappeared ;
Their dull echoed trampings no longer are heard ;
For still, though they passed like no steeds of the earth.
The fall of their tread gave some hollow sounds birth ;
Your heart would lie still till it numbered the last,
And your breath would be held till the rear horseman passed ;
So swiftly, so mute, so darkly they went,
Like spectres of air to the sorcerer sent.
That ye felt their approach, and might guess their intent."
Leaving awhile our heroes upon the margin of the pond,
it may be necessary here to speak of the tortuous windings
and turnings of the Saco river at this point, and its relation
to Lovewell's Pond and Fryburg village, the then head-
quarters of Paugus. With a bold sweep, the Saco changes
its course, near Chatauque, in Conway, New Hampshire, to
the north-east, nearly at right angles with its former course.
It passes in this direction Weston's Bridge, the rendezvous,
as we have said, of the Indians, and, continuing on, traverses
a distance of forty miles, within a space of six miles square,
now north, now south, now east, now west, till it comes at
last to Lovewell's Pond, only one mile and a half from Weston's
Bridge. It was the choice hunting-ground, the garden of
the Pequawkets. Starting from their very door, they could
sweep round on its current the whole length, filling their
18*
210 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
boats with game from its well-stocked shores, and, reaching
at last the pond ; could shoulder their canoes, and, ere the
lono^ '-file" should be formed, their chief would be in his
wigwam. The distance between the pond and their settle-
ment was called a ''carrjing-place."
It seems that, at the time of which we write, Paugus, with
eighty of his men, had been scouting down the river, and
had arrived, on the Saturday morning above referred to, at
their landing-place on the pond.
This Saturday morning had dawned none too soon for the
excited men of Lovewell. All night they had listened
through the dense darkness to the distant barking of the dogs
and the silent creeping of the Indians, till they grew eager
for the light. Breakfasting, they were assembled upon the
beach for their accustomed morning devotion.
*' Then were men of worth,
Who by their prayers slew thousands, angel like."
And their chaplain had scarcely uttered the significant words,
' ' We came out to meet the enemy ; we have all along prayed
God we might find them. We had rather trust Providence
with our lives, yea, die for our country, than try to return
without seeing them, if we might, and be called cowards for
our pains," when a gun was fired, and they espied an Indian
on a point of land that ran into the pond on the opposite side
from them. A hurried consultation was held, and they con-
cluded that the desigji of the gun and the Indian discov-
ering himself was to draw them that way; but that the
main body of the enemy was to the north of the pond.
Clamoring now eagerly to be led forward, the '' Captain
readily complied, though not without manifesting some ap-
prehensions." Their march lay along the margin of the
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 211
pond, just glistening in the first rajs of the rising sun.
Near the north-western shore they crossed the Indians'
" carrying-place." At the north-east end of the pond the
land rises very gradually to a slight elevation, and then falls
off again to the north into a thickly-wooded morass, covered
with high brakes. Here, on this slightly elevated plain,
where the trees were thin and the brakes small, they divested
themselves of their packs, and commenced a more cautious
march. They .had gone but a short distance, when " Ensign
Wyman discovered an Indian, who was out hunting, having
in one hand some fowls he had just killed, and in the other
two guns." Immediately a signal was given, and they all
"squatted." He came unsuspectingly towards them, and,
when near enough, " several guns were fired at him, but
missed him. Seeing that sure death was his lot, this valiant
Indian resolved to defend himself to his last breath ; and the
action was as speedy as the thought. His gun was levelled
at the English, and Lovewell was mortally wounded. En-
sign Wyman, taking deliberate aim, killed the poor Indian."
Mr. Samuel Whitney was also wounded by the shot of the
Indian. The operation of scalping the Indian was performed
by the chaplain, Mr. Frye, and another man. From this
point they commenced their return to where they had -left
their packs. Paugus, as we have said, had arrived with his
warriors at their landing-place on the shores of the pond ;
and scarcely had Lovewell crossed the " carrying-place," in
search of his foe, when the wily sachem, pursuing the well-
beaten path to his village, came upon signs of the white
man's moccasons. Instantly, the long "file" was hushed,
and,
'* With a slow and noiseless footstep,"
they followed the track. Coming upon the packs, they were
212 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
counted, and the number of the whites was known. Adopt-
ing their usual mode of warfare, they instantly sprang into
the morass as an ambush. Thus concealed, they could bring
their whole force to bear in an instant upon the whites, and,
by the celerity of the movement, could so surprise them as
to cause tliem to surrender at once. This undoubtedly was
the thought of Paugus. Scarcely had the last brake ceased
to move above the crouching forms of the Indians, when
Lovewell and his men came up, and commenced searching for
their packs. Now is the time ; and, springing from the
thicket, with a horrid yell, the savages fired their guns directly
over the heads of the whites, and ran towards them with
ropes, demanding if they would have quarter.
'' Only at the muzzles of their guns," replied the intrepid
Lovewell and his men, and the fight commenced.
" Wild and more wild the tumult grew
Amid the crazed, demoniac crew ;
Knives flashed, and man to man opposed."
Lovewell and his party, seizing the advantage, "rushed
towards the Indians, fired as they pressed on, and, killing
many, drove them several rods." But they soon rallied, and,
maddened by the unexpected resistance, rushed furiously on,
killing nine, and wounding three with their first fire. Cap-
tain Lovewell, Mr. Fullam (only son of Major Fullam, of
Weston), Ensign Harwood, John Jefts, Jonathan Kittridge,
Daniel Woods, and. Josiah Davis, were killed, and Lieuten-
ants Farwell and Robbins, and Kobert Usher, wounded by
the assault. The English, thus in number reduced, and see-
ing the Indians about to surround them, commenced to
retreat. It was done in good order, fighting bravely all the
way, and manfully contesting each inch of ground. Directly
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 213
back of them was a point of rocks which ran into the pond,
and a few large pine trees standing on a sandy beach. Here
they came to a stand. On their right was the mouth of a
large brook, at this time unfordable ; on their left, this sharp
ridge of rocks, while the pond guarded them in the rear.
Here " the fight continued, very furious and obstinate, till
towards night ; the Indians roaring, and yelling, and howl-
ing like wolves, barking like dogs, and making all sorts of
hideous noises ; the English frequently shouting and huz-
zaing, as they did after the first round." Thus they fought
from ten in the morning ''till the going down of the sun,
and till but nine of their company remained uninjured.
Wahwa could lead but twenty Indians uninjured from the
field; and, though they had the advantage, at sunset they
fled, leaving the dead unburied. Paugus, the brave chief,
had been slain, and thirty-nine of his bold followers had
been killed and wounded. Pauorus had been killed in single
combat, by one Chamberlain, of Groton. Wearied by the
protracted contest, each had come to opposite sides of the
brook to quench their thirst and wash their guns, which bad
become foul by so frequent firing. Their guns could almost
touch, so narrow was the space between them. As they
washed their guns, conversing familiarly with each other,
Chamberlain assured Paugus that he should kill him. Pau-
gus returned the threat, and bade him defiance. Carefully
drying their guns, they commenced" loading at the same time.
Their movements exactly corresponded, and the balls of each
were heard as they were sent home by the rods at the same
instant. But the gun of Chamberlain primed itself, and
Paugus' did not. Striking the breech upon the ground, it
primed, and, raising it with deliberate aim, he fired, and
Paugus fell dead upon the bank, and, as he fell, the well-
214 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY,
aimed ball from his rifle passed through the thick locks on
the top of Chamberlain's head, but left him unwounded.
About midnight, it being certain the Indians would not
renew the contest, the shattered remnant of the brave English
assembled themselves together to examine into their situation.
Nine of their company, including their captain, were dead.
Three were unable to move on account of their wounds ;
eleven, though wounded, thought themselves able to travel.
Nine remained untouched.
What now should be done ? To remain in the very centre
of an enemy's country, maddened by the loss of their brave
chief, and destitute of all food, was impossible ; but to return,
they must leave, not only their dead unburied, but their
wounded companions unprotected, to die by the torture of
the savages. Farrar, one of the wounded, expired during the
consultation. Bobbins and Usher urged and commanded
their companions to return, and leave them to their fate.
" Lieutenant Robbins even desired his companions to charge
his gun and leave it with him, which they did, he declaring
that, 'as the Indians will come in the morning to scalp me, I
will kill one more of them, if I can.' " As the moon w^as
rising they bade adieu to their companions, and, taking a last
look of the scene of their dreadful encounter, commenced
their memorable return. They had gone but a mile and a
half, when four of the men, Farwell, Frye, Davis and Jones,
declared themselves unable to go on ; and, like the brave
fellows they had already left, they were unwilling to detain
the company, and desired them to proceed. Their number,
now reduced to sixteen, they divided into three parties, fear-
ing to make too large a track, by which the Indians might
pursue them. One of these parties reached the fort at Ossi-
pee, but found it deserted. "The cowaa-d, wdio fled in the
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 215
beginning of the battle, ran directly to the fort, and gave the
men posted there such a frightful account of what had happened,
that they all fled from the fort, and made the best of their
way home." The main party of eleven, leaving the Ossipee
fort, continued on, and reached Dunstable, May 13th, in the
niglit.
Let us now return to those we have left by the way. One
Solomon Kies " had fought in the battle till he received
three wounds, and had become so weak, by the loss of blood,
that he could not stand ; he crawled up to Ensign Wyman,
in the heat of the battle, and told him he was a dead man ;
' but,' said he, 'if it be possible, I w^ill get out of the way
of the Indians, that they may not get my scalp.' Kies
then crept off by the side of the pond, where he providen-
tially found a canoe, when he rolled himself into it, and was
driven by the wind several miles towards the fort. He
gained strength fast, and reached the fort as soon as the
eleven before mentioned ; and they all arrived at Dunstable
on the 13th of May, at night.
''On the 15th of May, Ensign Wyman and three others
arrived at Dunstable. They suffered greatly for want of
provisions. They informed that they were wholly destitute
of all kinds of food from Saturday morning till the Wednes-
day following, when they caught two mouse-squirrels,
w^hich they roasted whole, and found to be a sweet morsel.
They afterwards killed some partridges and other game, and
were comfortably supplied till they got home."
Farwell and Davis, Frye and Jones, whom we left but a
short distance from the scene of the encounter, remained
some time in the helpless condition in which they were left ;
but at length, "though their wounds were putrefied and
stank, and they were almost dead with famine, yet they all
216 IXCIDEJfTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
travelled on several miles together, till Mr. Frje desired the
others not to stop on liis account, for he found himisclf dying,
and he laid himself down, telling them he should never rise
more ; and charged Davis, if it should please God to bring
him home, to go to his father, and tell him that he expected
in a few hours to be in eternity, and that he was not afraid
to die. They left him ; and this amiable and promising
young gentleman, who had the journal of the march in his
pocket, was not heard of again."
He was a young man of a liberal education, who took his
degree at college in 1723, and was chaplain to the company,
and greatly beloved by them for his excellent performances
and good behavior, and who fought with undaunted courage
till he was mortally wounded. But when he could fight no
longer, he prayed audibly, several times, for the preser-
vation and success of the residue of the company.
Jones, being separated from his companions by some acci-
dent, "traversed Saco river, and, after a fatiguing ramble,
aprived at Saco (now Biddeford), emaciated, and almost
dead through the loss of blood, the putrefaction of his
wounds, and the want of food. He was kindly treated by
the people of Saco, and recovered from his wounds."
Farwell and Davis suflfered exceedingly from hunger.
They were entirely destitute of provisions, and subsisted
upon the spontaneous vegetables of the forest. ' ' Lieutenant
Farwell held out, on his return, till the eleventh day, during
which time he had nothing to eat but water and a few roots,
which he chewed ; and by this time, through his body he
was so mortified, that the worms made a thorough passage.
On the same day, Davis, who was with him, caught a fish,
which he broiled, and was greatly refreshed by it ; but the
lieutenant was so much spent that he could not taste a bit.
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 217
Then, at Farwell's earnest entreaties that he would provide
for his own safety, he left him to his own fate. Previous to
this, he had taken Farwell's handkerchief and tied it to the
top of a bush, that it might ajBTord a mark by which his re-
mains could the more easily be found. After going from
him a short distance, Farwell called him back, and requested
to be turned upon the other side. Davis being now alone,
in a melancholy, desolate state, still made toward the fort,
and the next day came to it ; there he found some pork and
bread, sustained by which, he was enabled to reach Berwick,
and then Portsmouth, where he was carefully provided for,
and had a skilful surgeon to attend him."
Thus ends the battle of Love well's Pond. After the fear
had subsided, Colonel Tyng, with a small company, went to
the place of action, and buried the dead. Paugus and a few-
other Indians had been buried.
Trees perforated by the balls may be seen to this day on
the shore of the pond ; and the older citizens of Fryburg
will relate to the visitor the bloody engagement of early
Pequawket with all the ardor of youth.
Standing upon the summit of Pequawket Mountain, one
sees before him the pond, so peacefully glittering in the rays
of the sun, near the quiet village of Fryburg. But the
Indians are gone. The bold Paugus no longer raises the
shrill war-whoop, starting the echoes of the hills, and Wahwa
no longer leads the scout upon the beautiful windings of the
Saco.
** Where is their home, — their forest home ? the proud land of their sires?
Where stands the "wigwam of their pride ? Tvhere gleam their council-fires ?
Where are their fathers' hallowed graves ? their friends, so light and
free?
Gone, gone, — forever from our view I Great Spirit ! can it be ? "
19
218 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
The following ballad stanzas were printed originally in the
work entitled " Collections, Historical and Miscellaneous,
and Monthly Literary Journal," published at Concord, N. H.,
and edited by J. Farmer and J. B. Moore. The author's
name is not given ; but it is conjectured that they were writ-
ten by a personal friend of the learned and excellent editors,
who was then young and not much practised in writing, and
who is said to be still living somewhere in the State of
Maine :
*' 'T was Paugus led the Pequot tribe :
As runs the fox, would Paugus run ;
As howls the wild wolf, would he howl ;
A huge bear-skin had Paugus on.
But Chamberlain, of Dunstable,
One whom a savage ne'er shall slay,
Met Paugus by the water-side.
And shot him dead upon that day.
What time the noble Lovewell came.
With fifty men from Dunstable,
The cruel Pequot tribe to tame,
With arms a^d bloodshed terrible.
With Lovewell brave John Harwood came ; —
From wife and babes 't was hard to part ;
Young Harwood took her by the hand.
And bound the weeper to his heart.
* Repress that tear, my Mary dear,'
Said Harwood to his loving wife ;
* It tries me hard to leave thee here.
And seek, in distant woods, the strife.
* When gone, my Mary, think of me.
And pray to God that I may be »
Such as one ought that lives for thee.
And come at last in victory.'
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 219
•
Thus left young Harwood babe and wife ;
With accent wild, she bade adieu ;
It grieved those lovers much to part,
So fond and fair, so kind and true.
John Harwood died, all bathed in blood.
When he had fought till set of day ;
And many more we may not name
Fell in that bloody battle fray.
When news did come to Ilarwood's wife,
That he with Lovewell fought and died, —
Far m the wilds had given his life.
Nor more would in his home abide,
Such grief did s«ze upon her mind.
Such sorrow filled her faithful breast.
On earth she ne'er found peace again.
But followed Harwood to his rest.
Seth Wyman, who in Woburn lived, —
A marksman he, of courage true, —
Shot the first Indian whom they saw ; %
Sheer through his heart the bullet flew.
The savage had been seeking game ;
Two guns, and eke a knife, he bore.
And two black ducks were in his hand ;
He shrieked, and fell, to rise no more.
Anon, there eighty Indians rose.
Who hid themselves in ambush dread ;
Their knives they shook, their guns they aimed —
The famous Paugus at their head.
John Lovewell, captain of the band.
His sword he waved, that glittered bright ;
For the last time he cheered his men.
And led them onward to the fight.
220 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
* Fight on, fight on ! ' brave Lovewell said,
' Fight on, while Heaven shall give you breath I '
An Indian ball then pierced him through,
And Lovewell closed his eyes in death.
Good Heavens ! is this a time for prayer ?
Is this a time to worship God,
When Lovewell's men are dying fast.
And Paugus' tribe hath felt the rod ?
The chaplain's name was Jonathan Frye ;
In Andover his father dwelt ;
And oft with Lovewell's men he 'd prayed.
Before the mortal wound he felt. *
A man was he of comely form.
Polished and brave, well learnt and kind ;
Old Harvard's learned halls he left.
Far in the wilds a grave to find.
Ah ! now his blood-red arm he lifts,
His closing lids he tries to raise,
Anc^peak once more before he dies,
In supplication and in praise.
He prays kind Heaven to grant success,
Brave Lovewell's men to guide and bless,
And when they 've shed their heart's blood true.
To raise them all to happiness.
' Come hither, Farwell,' said young Frye ;
' You see that I 'm about to die ;
Now for the love I bear to you.
When cold in death my bones shall lie,
* Go thou and see my parents dear.
And tell them you stood by me here ;
Console them when they cry, Alas !
And wipe away the falling tear.'
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 221
Lieutenant Farwell took his hand.
His arms around his neck he threw,
And said, ' Brave chaplain, I could wish
That Heaven had made me die for you. '
The chaplain on kind Farwell's breast,
Bloody and languishing, he fell ;
Nor after that said more but this,
' I love thee, soldier ; fare thee well ! '
Good Heavens ! they dance the powwow dance ;
What horrid yells the forest fill !
The grim bear crouches in his den,
The eagle seeks the distant hill. - '
* What means this dance, this powwow dance ? '
Stern Wyman said : with wondrous art
He crept full near, his rifle aimed,
And shot the leader through the heart.
Then did the crimson streams that flowed
Seem like the waters of a brook.
That brightly shine, that loudly dash
Far down the cliflfe of Agiochook.
Ah ! many a wife shall rend her hair.
And many a child cry, ' Woe is me,'
When messengers the news shall bear
Of Lovewell's dear-bought victory.
With footsteps low shall travellers go.
Where Lovewell's Pond shines clear and bright, I
And mark the place where those are laid.
Who fell in Lovewell's bloody fight.
Old men shall shake their heads, and say, I
' Sad was the hour and terrible.
When Lovewell brave, 'gainst Paugus went.
With fifty men from Dunstable.' "
19*
CHAPTER XVI.
GILEAD.
SITUATION OF GILEAD. — SOIL. — WILD RIVER. — EARLY SETTLERS. — MINIS-
TERS. FIRST CHURCH. SLIDE. BEARS. ENCOUNTER OF ONE BEAN. —
YORK'S WARM RECEPTION BY A BEAR. — OLIVER PEABODY's LOOSE OX. —
FAMINE AMONG BEARS. BEAR AND HOG STORY. — HORRIBLE TRAGEDY.
** My wife ! my wife ! What wife ? 1 have no wife ;
0, insupportable ! 0, heavy hour !
Methinks it should be now a huge eclipse
Of sun and moon."
GiLEAD, formerly called Peabody's Patent, took its name
from a great Balm of Gilead tree, still standing near the
centre of the town. It lies on both sides of the Androscog-
gin river, which runs through its entire length from east to
■west, the town being six miles long, and three wide. On
the borders of this river is some of the best land in the
region, producing very bountiful crops. One farm, some
years since, under the cultivation of a very skilful, indus-
trious farmer, when a premium was offered by the State of
Maine for the best crop of wheat on a given portion of land,
secured the premium. Large crops of corn and potatoes
have been raised on it. Some of the former have equalled
one hundred bushels to the acre. The more usual crop is
from forty to sixty bushels. Potatoes have gone up as high
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 223
some years as six hundred bushels to the acre ; and one man,
for a number of years in succession, raised upwards of five
hundred bushels to the acre.
The town is so situated as to escape almost entirely the
early frosts of autumn. Eanges of high mountains bound
the valley in which it- is situated, completely shutting it in
on the east and west. A continual current of air is thus
formed, preserving the crops in the valley and on the hill-
sides, while the frost is busily at work in the adjoining
towns. Shaggy and rude in the extreme are the mountains
w^hich so completely wall in this fertile valley. One has
remarked that " the expense of transportation of fuel down
the mountains, in a slippery time, is very trifling.;''
Wild river, one of those impetuous mountain streams,
empties into the Androscoggin in this town. "It is a child
of the mountains ; at times fierce, impetuous and shadowy,
as the storms that howl around the bald heads of its parents,
and bearing down everything that comes in its path ; then
again, when subdued by long summer calms, murmuring
gently in consonance with the breezy rustle of the trees,
whose branches depend over it. An hour's time may swell
it into a headlong torrent ; an hour may reduce it to a brook
that a child might ford without fear."
This town was settled about the time Shelburne was,
whose brief history we have just given. The settlers came
generally from Massachusetts and the southern part of New
Hampshire. They were Thomas Peabody, Capt. Joseph
Lary, Isaac Adams, Eliphalet Chapman, Capt. Eliphalet
Burbank, George Burbank, Ephraim and Seth Wight, John
Mason, Stephen Coffin, and Samuel Wheeler. After this
soon came Phineas Kimball, Henry Philbrook, Peter Coffin,
and Joseph Lary, jr. These were all exemplary good men,
224 INCIDENTS IN AVHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
giving a character of energy to the place. They regarded
religious institutions, and helped sustain them by their prop-
erty and example. They were a church-going people, always
attending the worship of God on the Sabbath.
From the earliest time of its settlement it has enjoyed
more or less steadily the preaching ©f the gospel. Before
any Christian church was planted in it, it had a succession
of missionaries, sent from different sources, who were instru-
mental of great religious benefit to the people. Amon^
these were the Rev. Jotham Sewall, or, as he is often called,
'' Father Sewall," and the Rev. Samuel Hidden, of Tam-
worth.
In 1818j a Congregational church was formed, consisting
of Melvin Farwell and wife, Abraham Burbank and wife,
Widow Susannah Burbank, Betsey Philbrook, John Mason,
jr., H. Ingalls, Rhoda Styles, Mary Peabody, and Ephraim
and Seth Wight. This church, soinetimes through its own
efforts, and sometimes in connection with Shelburne, has had
preaching most of the time since its formation. Its regularly
settled pastors have been Rev. Henry White, and Rev.
Henry Richardson. Besides those. Rev. Daniel Goodhue
and others have been supplies for different portions of time.
There is a Methodist church, also, which has been instru-
mental of great religious and moral benefit to the place.
During the terrible storm of 1826, when my brother's
family was destroyed at the Notch, slides also took place on
many of the mountains around this town. From Picked
Hill came rushing down thousands of tons of earth, and
rocks, and trees, and water, destroying all that lay in their
path. No lives were lost, but the consternation of the
inhabitants was great. The darkness was so intense as
almost to be felt. The vivid lightnings and long streams of
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 225
fire, covering the sides of the mountains, caused by the con-
cussion of the rocks, only served to make the darkness more
visible. Amid the deluge of rain, the terrific crashings of
the thunder, and, over all, the deafening roar of the descend-
ing slides, it was impossible to make one's self heard. The
valley rocked as though an earthquake was shaking the
earth. The frightful scene did not last long; but, during
its continuance, more terror was crowded into it than during
an ordinary lifetime. The inhabitants under these moun-
tains alone can appreciate the awful scene through which my
brother and his family passed on that terrible night.
This region has been very much infested -with bears,
especially during the summer months. Many live now on
the mountains, preventing entirely the raising of sheep.
Though much of the land, especially on the mountains, is
well adapted to grazing, still it is never safe to trust sheep
and young stock far from the settlements. So late as the
summer of 1852, a most desperate encounter took place
between one of the farmers in this vicinity and a large black
bear of the white-face breed — the most savage of that
variety.
A Mr. Bean was to work in his field, accompanied by a
boy twelve years of age. The bear approached him, and
having his gun with him, charged for partridges, he fired,
but with little effect. The bear bore down upon him ; he
walked backwards, loading his gun at the same time, when
his foot caught by a twig, which tripped him up, and the
bear leaped upon him. He immediately fired again, but
with no visible effect. The bear at once went to work, —
seizing his left arm, biting through it, and lacerating it
severely. While thus amusing himself, he was tearing with
his fore paws the clothes, and scratching the flesh on the
226 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
young man's breast. Having dropped his arm, he opened hia
huge mouth to make a pounce at his face. Then it was that
the young man made the dash that saved his life. As the
bear opened his jaws, Bean thrust his lacerated arm down
the brute's throat, as far as desperation would enable him.
There he had him ! The bear could neither retreat nor ad-
vance, though the position of the besieged was anything but
agreeable. Bean now called upon the lad to come and take
from his pocket a jack-knife, and open it. The boy marched
up to the work boldly. Having got the knife, Bean with his
untrammelled hand cut the bear's throat from ear to ear, kill-
ing him stone dead, while he lay on his body ! It was judged
the bear weighed nearly four hundred pounds. One of his
paws weighed two pounds eleven ounces.
The earlier annals of this town are full of adventure,
nearly equalling this in daring and bravery. The older in-
habitants can recall many a scene of thrilling interest which
took place within sight of their very cabins.
A man by the name of York, living in the woods, one day
came rather suddenly upon a full-grown bear. They both
stopped and looked each other steadily in the face. Neither
seemed disposed to retreat. The bear bade defiance in her look,
and York did the same. An encounter seemed unavoidable,
partly because he dare not retreat now if he might, and
partly because he had the pluck not to do it if he could. So
they both addressed themselves to the battle. The bear raised
herself on her hind feet, standing upright, and spread her
fore legs to receive her antagonist. York responded by open-
ing his arms, and a close grip succeeded. Then followed a
struggle for dear life, the issue of which no one could have
decided but for one circumstance. York had the advantage
in it from having an open, long-bladed jack-knife in his right
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 227
hand ^vhen it commenced. This, of course, he used in the
best way he could, not stopping to ask whether it was fair
or not. Making a little extra exertion on the first good
opportunity, he drew the blade across the bear's throat, and
she relaxed her hold and soon bled to death. The victory
was his.
One dark night Mr. Oliver Peabody, living in a log hut,
was disturbed by his cattle in the hovel near by. Supposing
that one of them had broken from his fastening, and was
goring the rest, he arose from his bed, and, with nothing on
but his night-dress, ran towards the hovel to search out the
cause of the trouble. As he came to the entrance, which
was merely a hole in its side, he espied some black creature
standing just inside, and, thinking it one of his cattle, stepped
forward a little, and struck it on the rump with a stick he
had in his hand, crying, '-Hurrup! hurrup there!" The
creature, deeming this rather a rough salutation, turned
round, and, with the full force of his huge paw, gave him a
heavy slap on the side. By this time he began to imagine
that he was in no very delicate, refined company, and must
look out for himself The salutation he received from the
creature was a little more unceremonious and rude than the
one he first gave him. He was fully aware, now, that some-
times a person must take blows as well as give them, and
hard ones, too. Certain it was, he had no disposition to re-
peat his stroke, or his cry of " Hurrup ! hurrup ! " and, per-
ceiving that the bear was about to repeat the blow, he sounded
a retreat, and made haste back to his hut. Whether the
bear kept his ground, and proceeded to annoy the cattle fur-
ther, we were not informed.
In the autumn of 1804, it required all the vigilance and
courage of the inhabitants to preserve their cattle and hogs
228 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
from the ferocious creatures. The nuts and berries, their usual
food, had failed them, and, driven on bj hunger, the infuriated
beasts would rush almost into the very houses of the settlers.
Young hogs were caught and carried off in sight of their
owners, and within gunshot of their pens. A huge, growl-
ing monster, seized a good-sized hog in his paws, and ran off
with it, standing on his hind legs, satisfying his hunger as
he went.
One dark night Mr. Oliver Peabody, the same we have
spoken of before, was disturbed by the loud squealing of his
hogs. As unsuspecting as before, he rushed out in his night-
dress to the yard where they were kept, back of his barn.
Scarcely yet fully awake, he placed his hands upon the top
rail, and stood peering out into the darkness, shouting lustily
to whatever mio;ht be disturbino; his hoo;s. So intent was he
on driving away the intruder, that he was conscious of nothing
until he felt the warm breath of a large bear breathing
directly in his face. The huge monster had left the hogs on
his first approach, and, rearing herself on her hind legs, placed
her paws on the same rail, near his hands, and stood ready
for the new-year salutation of the Russians — a hug and a
kiss. Realizing fully his danger, he darted away for his
house, the bear following close at his heels. He had barely
time to reach his door, and throw himself against it as a
fastening, when Madam Bruin came rushing against it. The
frail thing trembled and squeaked on its wooden hinges, but
his wife had placed the wooden bar across it, and thus it with-
stood the shock. Opening the door slightly, on the first op-
portunity, he let out his dog. The dog, used to the business,
seized the bear fiercely by the throat, as she sat on her
haunches* eying the door. Not so easily driven off, however,
she threw the mastiff with tremendous force against the house,
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 229
and leaping a fence near at hand, sat coolly down. The noble
dog, as soon asi, he could recover from the stunning blow,
again attacked her. With still more force sha threw him
this time against the cabin, displacing some of its smaller
timbers, near where some of the children were asleep in a
truckle-bed. Bounding away, she ran some eighty rods, to
tlie house of one Stephen Messer, seized a large hog, and
leaping a fence three feet high with it in her arms, ran thirty
rods, and sat down to her feast. Before Messrs. Peabody and
Messer could reach her, she had finished her repast and
walked slowly off into the woods.
About the middle of June, 1850, one of the most tragical
scenes transpired in this town that ever took place in any
region. Happily the principal actors in it were not natives
of the town or region, but foreigners. A contractor on the
Atlantic and St. Lawrence Railroad, which was then being
constructed through the Androscoggin valley, after burying
his wife in Bethel, went to board with a Mr. George W.
Freeman, a blacksmith. This man was in the employ of the
contractor, helping him build a very expensive bridge over
Wild river. Mr. Freeman's family consisted of a wife and
three children. He had been somewhat remarkable as a kind
and faithful husband and indulgent parent, and nothing had
ever occurred to mar the peace of the family until the advent
of the contractor into it. Mrs. Freeman, young and beauti-
ful, was very attractive in looks and address, but in all re-
spects, heretofore, had shown herself an exemplary woman
and devoted wife. Freeman, unable to harbor the thought
of anything wrong in his wife, for a long time passed by many
things which caused him much uneasiness. The particular
attentions of the contractor to his wife he tried long and hard
to construe as only the civilities due from a gentleman to a
20
230 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
lady. As each day the attentions became more marked, and
the evident partiality of the two for each other's society be-
came more manifest, the loathed suspicion worked itself grad-
ually into the terrible conviction that his companion was
yielding to the wiles of the seducer. So bold had they be-
come in their course, that scarcely a day passed but they rode
out together, sometimes extending their rides to late hours in
the night. At last they went to Bethel, a distance of nine
miles, to attend a ball, and did not return until near morn-
ing. This fully roused Mr. Freeman from his heretofore
almost stupid forbearance. He undressed and put his chil-
dren to bed, and then calmly awaited the return of the guilty
pair. Not in anger, but intensely in earnest, he expostu-
lated with them, warning them of the consequences of their
guilty course. Passionately he besought his wife to remember
their hitherto happy life, and spare himself and her babes the
disgrace and loss of such a companion and a mother. It
was allj however, to no purpose.
Shortly after the ball at Bethel, Mrs. Freeman threw off
all restraint, and asked her husband for a divorce. Her
affection, she said, for him was gone, and it was better for
them to separate. She could never again love him as she
had, and to live with him in her present state of mind was
unendurable. She not only asked him for divorcement, but
told him that, with or without it, she should certainly leave
him. That she was in earnest was clearly manifest. She
commenced her preparations for a journey, proceeding even
so far as to pack some of her things.
The contractor's office was in Freeman's house, and his
clerk was almost constantly employed in it. By chance
Freeman overheard one day a conversation between his wife
and the clerk. She had come for advice, and imagining nc
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN UISTORY, 231
opposition from the clerk, disclosed to him her plans. Con-
trary to her expectations, the noble young man reprimanded
her severely for her conduct, and warmly advised her for her
good. Freeman heard all, and it confirmed his worst suspi-
cions.
Previous to these active preparations of Mrs. Freeman for
her departure, the contractor had left for New York. Before
leaving, it seems, it had been arranged between them that Mrs.
Freeman should soon follow to meet at some place yet to be
agreed upon. Freeman learned these facts but too soon. Not
long after the contractor had left, a beautiful trunk, marked for
Mrs. Freeman, was one day left at the door, when Mrs. Free-
man chanced to be out. With a shop-key Freeman opened the
trunk in his shop, and there full evidence of the intentions of
the pair was manifest. Beautiful dresses and jewelry for
herself and children were the contents, and under all a letter
disclosing the plans. She was to meet the contractor at Syra-
cuse, N. Y. There were minute directions as to the routes to
travel, and particular caution to fasten the door of her bed-
chamber, at night, in the different hotels. The day for her
departure was named. He concealed from his wife the trunk
and letter, and she never probably knew of its arrival.
The day for Mrs. Freeman's departure was already fixed,
and the night preceding her leaving in the morning had ar-
rived. Calmly Freeman sat among his family during the
evening, and on their retiring had embraced and kissed them
according to his usual custom. Long he lingered near his wife,
but at length, bidding her the last good-night, retired to his
room. They had not slept together for some time, a servant-
girl occupying the bed with his wife and young child. Still-
ness had settled down upon the house, when suddenly a
piercing shriek broke upon the night, startling every sleeper
232 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
from his slumbers. " I am murdered ! I am murdered ! "
was all that could be distinguished in the confusion which
ensued. Each hurried whence the voice proceeded, and there,
in Mrs. Freeman's room, weltering in blood, lay the unhappy
wife, shrieking in paroxysms of terror. She rose up in bed,
as they entered, the mutilated, bleeding arm hanging at her
side. Medical assistance was soon at hand, the wounded
limb amputated and carefully dressed, but to no effect ; from
loss of blood the murdered woman died but a few hours after.
A few buckshot were taken from the head. The shattered con-
dition of the arm, and the broken window, made it evident in
what manner the poor woman had been murdered. Sleeping
on her side, the murderer had aimed directly at her heart, but,
missing, had discharged the whole contents of the gun into
her arm. He had accomplished, however, his purpose as well
as though he had not missed his aim.
The murdered wife was conscious who had murdered her.
Her husband was the only one of the large family who
gathered not around her bedside at her fearful summons.
"It was my husband," were her words. And the full weight
of her great guilt bursting upon her too late, she could but
groan and ejaculate, " 0, my own dear husband ! And will
he not come ! 0, George, my husband, shall I not see him,
to be forgiven ! " She died, not suspecting that her husband
was dead, but that he avoided seeing her from grief Fully
forgiving him, she died with his name upon her lips.
But to turn from the sad spectacle of the wife to the still
sadder sight of her husband. Instant search was made for
him as the murderer of his wife, and after long hours of
hunting, about a mile from his house, he was found dead,
lying in a pool of his own blood. His throat was cut from
ear to ear, his hand still grasping the fatal razor. By him
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 233
lay his gun and a piece of rope. The gun, it seems, he had
tried, but it had not done its work, merely bruising badly one
cheek.
A jury of inquest was holden on his body, and a verdict
rendered according to facts. On examination of his affairs,
letters were found, written by his own hand, giving directions
in regard to his children, and the disposition he wished to be
made of his property when he was dead. It is supposed,
from some things in his case, especially one important inci-
dent, that until a late period in his life, he did not intend to
kill his wife, but the contractor.
He asked the clerk of the contractor, one day, which side
of the bed they held in common he, the contractor, slept?
giving an occasion by this for an inference that he had some
design upon him. But the contractor leaving before the
design could be executed, and determined, as he had declared,
that the contractor should never enjoy his wife, he made up
his mind to kill her, and did actually perform the dreadful
deed we have rehearsed. How strongly this whole affair im-
presses upon us the importance of watching against the first
emotions of aiiy great sin, and praying earnestly the prayer
taught us by the Saviour, '' Lead us not into temptation,
but deliver us from evil," we certainly need not say. There
being no minister in Gilead at this time, Rev. Mr. Leland,
of Bethel, attended the funeral on the occasion. He preached
to a very large concourse of people on the text, " When lust
hath conceived it bringeth forth sin; and sin, when it ia
finished, bringeth forth death."
20*
CHAPTER XVII.
segar's narrative.
ATTACK ON BETHEL. — SEGAR. — INDIANS. CAPTURE OF SEQAB AND COM-
PANI0N9. MRS. CLARK. THE JOURNEY TO CANADA. PETTENGILL'S
HOUSE. — HOPE AUSTIN. — CAPT. RINDGE. — MURDER OF POOR. — CLARK'S
ESCAPE. — ENCAMPMENTS AT NIGHT. UMBAGOG LAKE. — SUFFERINGS
FROM HUNGER. — ARRIVAL AT ST. FRANCIS RIVER. — INDIAN DANCE. —
BRITISH PROTECTION. — RETURN HOME.
" With liearts unbent, and spirits brave,
They sternly bore
Such toils as meaner souls had quelled."
On the third of August, 1781, a party of six Indians from
Canada, in the employ of British officers, made an attack
upon Bethel, then Sudbury, Canada, and Shelburne, killing
three men, and carrying as many more into captivity. It was
the last of a long series of outrages upon the frontier settle-
ments, commencing with King Philip's war, and ends the
bloody Indian history of this region.
Segar, one of the three men captured, who published an
account of this surprisal and captivity after his return, and
whose narrative we have more particularly followed, had early
removed to Sudbury, Canada, from Massachusetts. He had
been a soldier in the revolutionary army on the breaking
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 235
out of war, had retreated from Bunker Hill, and had helped
to garrison the fort at Ticonderoga.
With three others he had built a hut, and at the time of his
capture was residing six miles from any white settlement.
No danger was apprehended from the Indians. Since the
decisive victories of Norridgewock and Pequawket, they had
appeared perfectly subdued, and lived on the most friendly
terms with their more powerful neighbors. Since the break-
ing out of war there had been some indications of returning
hostility, but not enough to excite alarm. Frequently they
had come to the settlements, painted and decorated for war,
and occasionally, for a moment, assumed their old demeanor
of insolent brutality ; but their generally kind and frank man-
ner quieted all fear, and no one imagined harm.
On the day above stated Segar and two others, Jonathan
Clark and Eleazer Twitchell, were at work in the field some
distance from any house. Suspecting nothing, they were
entirely unarmed. Suddenly six Indians, headed by one
Tomhegan, a bold, impudent fellow, well known to the set-
tlers, painted and armed with guns, tomahawks and scalping.-
knives, with a shrill war-whoop, sprang from a piece of woods
near by, and made captives of the three.
Having secured their prisoners they marched them to
Clark's house, the nearest to the party. Here they bound
them down, and, with threats of killing them if they attempted
to escape, commenced plundering the premises. Clark's wife,
a courageous, resolute woman, did not admire the operation,
and determined by stratagem or fight to oppose it. While
they were filling their bottles with some rum they had found
in the cellar, she took her husband's valuable watch and hid
it in the ashes. Some old clothing she allowed them to take,
without making any objection ; but when they demanded the
1
236 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
gold necklace on her neck, she plainly told them they could
not have it, and summoned all her strength to fight it out.
In the struggle which ensued, the string broke, the beads
flew about the floor, and the Indians were never the richer
by one. Not succeeding in obtaining' the beads, they next
demanded the silver buckles on her shoes ; but the undaunted
woman gave them to understand, in plain words and a shrill
voice, that her feet and the buckles on them were her own,
and their safety lay in not meddling with them ; and so
thoroughly were the fellows frightened, that they made no
more attempts on her.
While this was going on, her husband and the others were
quaking with fear that the Indians woul(^ become infuriated,
and kill the whole party together. Says one of the trem-
bling captives: " My fears were that they would kill her;
she was very bold towards them, and showed no fears."
During the struggle with Mrs. Clark, another Indian
joined the party with Mr. Benjamin Clark, whom he had
just taken. Him they secured, and sat down to count their
gains, and make their arrangements for escaping undetected
with their prisoners. Twitchell, seeing them, thus engaged,
and somewhat emboldened by the courageous bearing of the
woman and the timidity of the savages, slipped his fasten-
ings, and left suddenly for the woods, where, hiding himself
among the logs, he escaped the search made for him.
The Indians, having determined on their course, packed up
their plunder into large, heavy bundles, which they fastened
on the backs of their prisoners. Whether fearing to take
Mrs. Clark or not, they left her unharmed, simply remark-
ing, as the fearless matron followed her husband to the door,
that, if she remained in the house, she would not be mo-
lested ; but, if she attempted to follow, she would be killed,
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 237
for there were hundreds of Indians in the woods. Numbers,
they might have thought, would terrify her, who, if they
had undertaken to lead her off with them Avith their present
forces, would have been quite likely to have turned upon
them with
** Nay, then,
Do what thou canst, I will not go to-day ;
No, nor to-morrow, nor till I please myself."
It was now late, and they could go but a few miles before
it would be dark. With heavy hearts the poor men trudged
on under their heavy burdens, their hands bound closely
behind them, and their captors continually hurrying their
speed, fearing their booty might be taken from them. Con-
tinuing on as long as they could see, the darkness at length
compelled them to halt for the night in the hut of one Peter
Austin, who, fortunately, chanced to be from home. Here
they found but little to plunder. Two guns, — one of them
not good for anytl^ing, which they broke to pieces, — and a
little sugar, were all they could find.
Tightening the cords with which they were tied until their
hands were benumbed, they compelled their captives to lie
down, and, surrounding them, the savages went to sleep.
Says our narrator : " Here we spent a gloomy night, which
none can realize except those who have been in a like con-
dition." At daylight the Indians were astir, and lading
their captives for the march. In Gilead, then Peabody's
Patent, they stopped at the house of one Pettengill. Pet-
tengill himself was not in the house, but some distance from
it, in sight ; and, the Indians calling him, he instantly came
in. They searched the house, as usual, and found sugar and
some cream in a tub, on which they breakfasted, "eating
like hogs," but gave none to the prisoners.
238 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
After finishing the repast, thej told Pettengill he must
go with them, and to make himself ready. But he pleaded
his want of shoes ; and fearing, perhaps, resistance, or the
danger of having too large a number of captives, they left
him, but strictly charged that he should not leave the house.
Mrs. Pettengill and the children, remaining quiet, received
no abuse.
They had gone but a short distance from the house when
two of the Indians returned, captured and bound Pettengill,
and gave him his load among the others. But. for some
reason, they feared him. They dared not take him with
them, and they dared not leave him free. But one course
was left, and, after having proceeded but a little way, they
killed him on the spot. His wife, a few days after, discov-
ered his body, and friends from Bethel buried it.
At Shelburne the Indians became greatly alarmed. Ques-
tioning some children, whom they found at play near a small
brook, concerning the number of men in an adjoining house,
they replied there were ten, and that they all had guns.
This so terrified them that they placed all the packs on the
prisoners, and prepared themselves to take to their heels if
attacked. The poor fellows, thus loaded down, were ordered
to cross the Androscoggin river at a place where ' ' it was
never forded before or since." None of the men could
swim, and how they succeeded in getting over, our narrator
says he '' cannot imagine." The fright, however, was
groundless, as not a man was in the house. At the house
of Hope Austin, which they passed, they found money, and
other booty of less value, but left Mrs. Austin unharmed,
bidding her remain in the house.
They were now on the very outposts of the scattered fron-
tier settlements. Some miles after leaving the house of
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 239
Austin, Tomhegan, the instigator of these barbarities, left
the party, and struck out into a bj-path. He had nDt been
gone long, when a gun was heard, and, soon after, Tomhegan
returned with a negro, named Plato. He had been lurking
round the premises of a Capt. Rindge, and, as one Poor and
Plato were going out to work, Tomhegan had called to them
to come to him. Poor, suspecting treachery, turned to run,
when Tomhegan instantly shot him, and captured the black.
After learning from Plato that there was no one to fear
but Capt. Rindge and wife, it was determined to march the
captives to the house. Rindge was exceedingly terrified.
He not only submitted patiently to the plundering of the
savages, but even brought them articles they would never
have found. Here the poor prisoners fared well. While
they were eating, the Indians went out and scalped Poor.
A boy named Ingalls was seized, but, by the persuasion of
Rindge, was left.
Having satisfied their cupidity, they started on. Finding
the number of captives too large to manage safely, they told
Jonathan Clark he might return, provided he would keep
the path they had travelled. Suspecting something was
wrong, after going a short distance out of sight of the
Indians, he left the path, and struck out into the woods.
As he afterwards learned, it w^as the saving of his life ; for,
not long after he had taken the woods, two Indians who had
been left behind came along the path, and would undoubtedly
have killed him as a deserter.
Capt. Rindge' s w^as the last house on the frontier, and an
unbroken wilderness now lay between them and Canada.
Shortly after leaving the house, the Indians took a large
piece of spruce bark, and ordered Segar to write on it, that
240 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
if they were taken by Americans the prisoners would all be
killed. This they flistened to a tree.
At the encampments at night the savages amused them-
selves by their brutal dances. Says our author, of one of
these scenes : '• During our tarry in this place, we were per-
mitted to sit down and rest ourselves ; but they would not
permit us to sit together. This was a very rocky place. Here
they took the hair of their scalps in their teeth, and began to
shake their heads, to whoop, to jump from rock to rock, and
conducted and acted in such a hideous and awful manner, as
almost to make our hair stand upright upon our heads, and
to fill us with fear and trembling. I had heard of an Indian
powwow ; but what tongue can tell, or imagination can
describe, the looks and actions of these savages on such occa-
sions ? Such scenes are beyond description. Their actions
are inconceivable. It would seem that Bedlam had broken
loose, and that hell was in an uproar."
After reaching Umbagog Lake, the remaining distance
was made in canoes, carrying them on their shoulders across
the carrying-places. During the whole march the captives
suffered exceedingly from hunger. For days nothing would
be given them to eat ; and, when so worn down that they
could with difficulty move, old moccasons of moose-skin,
tainted by the heat, would be broiled, and bits of it given
them. But once after leaving the settlements until they
reached the St. Francois river was anything eatable given
them, and this was moose-meat dried in the smoke. Most
of this distance, too, they travelled with their hands tied fast
behind them.
After reaching the St. Francois they fared better. Fish
were plenty in these waters, and easily taken. Sturgeon were
taken in large quantities by t'^'^hlight. As they came
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 241
among the remote settlers, milk frequently -vras obtained, and
occasionallj, says our narrator, " wc had good bread and
milk to eat, which was a very luscious dish, and highly pleas-
ing to us, and we ate as much as we wanted."
But a short distance from their village the Indians com-
menced loud demonstrations of rejoicing. As they entered
the encampment, it was dark ; but the Indians made it as
light as day with their torches. There were seventy Indian
warriors at this place. "When we came near the shore, an
Indian clinched me by the arm, and violently pulled me to
him, swaggering over me as though he would have killed me.
I was surrounded by the Indians on every side, with terrible
countenances, and of a strange language which I did not
understand. At this time there were great rejoicings among
them over the prisoners, scalps and plunder, which they had
taken in this nefarious enterprise."
The captives were readily given up to the British officers,
except Clark. No abuse was offered them amid the wild
carousal of their captors. Black Plato stood awhile as a
mark at which they threw firebrands ; but, crying lustily,
was released uninjured.
Clark had completely taken the fancy of the Indians, or,
perhaps, of the squaws. They determined on making him
their chief, and had already " cut off his hair, painted him,
and dressed him in an Indian dress," when they were pre-
vailed upon to give him up. A bounty was paid the Indians
by the British officers of eight dollars for a scalp, or for a
prisoner.
'' We were here under guard two days. After this, we
were given up by the British guard to the Indians, with an
interpreter, to carry us in their canoes to Montreal. About
ten Indians took the charge of us. On account of contrary
21
242 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
head winds, we were many days in going up the river St.
Lawrence. The prisoners were sometimes ordered to march
by land, with a number of Indians to guard them. When
we were in the canoes we were not permitted to wear our
shoes. The canoes, as soon as we were on the land, left the
shore even before I could pick up my shoes. When the
Indians came up again, I immediately went for my shoes ;
but I could not find them. I asked for them, but an Indian
told me they had sold them for pipes. I found some fault
with them for their conduct ; but they told me the king
would find me shoes. These were the last things they could
take from me. They had ordered me to give them my shirt
before, and they gave me an old frock for it without giving
me any back. I could not help myself, for I was a prisoner,
and in their power.
" We at length arrived at Montreal, and were conducted to
the commander. There were three of us. They examined
us, and asked us many questions ; — where we were taken
prisoners ; how long we had been in the American service,
and many other like questions.
' ' The Indians requested the commander that they might
keep Mr. Clark ; but he would not grant their request. The
Indians then took oif all the ornaments from him, and every
rag of clothes, except a very short shirt. They now received
their bounty money for the prisoners and scalps. They took
Plato away with them, and sold him to a Frenchman in Can-
ada. Afterwards he was sent back to his old master, Capt.
Rindge. The rest of us were given up to the British. We
were ordered to go with a man, who conducted us to the jail,
and delivered us to the guard, where were ten prisoners, and
some of them confined in irons. Our situation now was
truly distressing. We had been so worn down with hunger
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN UISTORY. 243
and a fatiguing journey through the wilderness, and distress-
ing fears in our minds, that we were almost ready to despond.
Our allowance was not half sufficient for us. In this place
were multitudes of rats, which would devour the whole
allowance that was granted to us, and was of itself too small
for us : but we took every measure to secure it from ilie rats.
The lice which we caught of the Indians were a great annoy-
ance to our bodies. We were, therefore, afflicted on every
side."
After remaining in this situation some forty days, they
were sent with others to an island, fifty miles up the St.
Lawrence. Here they remained till the close of the war in
1782, enduring much from the extreme cold and want of
food. On the general exchange of prisoners attendant upon
peace, they were returned t© Boston, after suffering sixteen
months' captivity.
" I tarried at Newton some time to refresh mj^self, after I
returned from captivity ; and, soon after the peace, I returned
to Bethel, and have made me a small farm, where I have
resided ever since, and have reared up a large family. I
have undergone all the hardships and self-denials which are
incident to those who are engaged in settling new countries ;
but have lived to see the town rise from a howling wilderness
into fruitful fields, and in flourishing circumstances, and
peace and order promoted therein for the rising generations
and those yet unborn."
CHAPTER XVIII.
SHELBURNE.
SITUATION OF SHELBURNE. — MOUNTAINS. — EVENING DRIVE AMONG TilR
MOUNTAINS. MOUNT MORIAH. MOSES' ROCK. GRANNY STARBIRD'S
LEDGE. WHY SO CALLED. MINERAL WEALTH OF THIS TOWN. EARLY
SETTLERS. MR. DANIEL INGALLS. MOSES INGALLS. KILLING THE
DEVIL. — ROBERT FLETCHER INGALLS. — SUFFERINGS OF THE EARLY SET-
TLERS. — INDIAN MASSACRE. — TERRIBLE ENCOUNTER WITH WOLVES. —
THE FAMISHED SOLDIER.
" Long since that white-haired ancient slept ; but
Still *******
* * his venerable form again
Is at my side, his voice is in my ear."
This town, situated in Coos County, was chartered as
early as the year 1668. It was rechartered by George III.,
King of England, to Mark H. Wentworth and six others. It
then included what was called Shelburne Addition, now in-
corporated into a town called Gorham. This new charter
was given in the year 1771, and the town surveyed by
Theodore Atkinson the same year. The town is bounded
north by Success, east by Maine and Bean's Purchase, and
west by Gorham. The population in 1820, when it was
incorporated, was 205. In 1850 it was 430, indicating a
fair increase. The Androscoggin river passes through the
centre of the town, into which fall the waters of Rattle river
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN niSTORY. 245
and mtinj smaller streams. The soil on each bank of the
river is very good, producing in abundance grain and grass ;
but, as we rise from the river, the land becomes mountainous
and unfit for cultivation. Besides the ranges of mountains
bordering on the river, many isolated peaks stand within its
bounds. Mount Moriah, the highest of the several summits,
lies in the southern part of the town. "It was so named, by
one of the early settlers of the region, because its shape or
position coincided with some conception he had formed of its
Scripture namesake." A writer in the Boston Transcript
thus describes the beauty of tliis and other mountains lying
within an evening's drive^of the Alpine House, in Gorham :
'•'About six in the evening is the time for a drive. Na-
ture, as Willis charmingly said, pours the wine of her beauty
twice a day — in the early morning, and the evening when
the long shadows fall. Here the saying is more literally
true, not only as to the shadows, but in regard to color. Her
richest flasks are reserved for the dessert-hour of the day's
feast. Then they are bountifully poured. Herr Alexander
and Wizard Anderson, when they perform the trick of turn-
ing many liquors from one bottle, to an astonished crowd,
meanly parody the magic of the evening sun shedding over
these hills the most various juices of light from his single urn.
Those strong, substantial, twin-majesties, Madison and Jeffer-
son, have a steady preference for a brown-sherry hue; the An-
droscoggin Hills take to the lighter and sparkling yellows,
hocks and champagne ; but the clarets, the red hermitage, and
the deep purple Burgundies, are reserved for the ridge of Mount
Moriah. This wine for the eye does not interfere with the
temperance pledge ; and the visual flavor is so delicious, that
one is eager all through the day for the evening repast."
Mount Moriah is much visited by travellers. The view
21*
246 INCIDENTS IN WHITE xMOUNTAIN HISTORY.
from its summit is beautiful and extensive. To the east can
be seen Umbagog Lake, embosomed amid high hills, the
highest of which is Saddleback Mountain, and still further
to the eastward the Blue Mountains in Temple, Bald Moun-
tains in Carthage, Mount Abraham in Kingfield, and be-
yond all Mount Bigelow in Franklin County. South-east-
erly, when the atmosphere is clear, Portland and the ocean
beyond may be distinctly seen with a good glass. More to
the south lie Pleasant Mountain, amid numerous small sheets
of water, and Lake Winnipiseogee, still further to the right.
The White Mountains shut in the view on the west.
Near the centre of the town is a steep, precipitous ledge,
named Moses' Rock. It is sixty feet high and ninety long,
very smooth, and rising in an angle of fifty degrees. Tradi-
tion says that a hunter once drove a moose over the steep
descent, and his dog, in close pursuit, followed close at his
heels, both mingling together in one common mass at the foot.
During the early survey of the town, the best lot of land in
the township was offered to the man who would climb this
ledge. One Moses Ingalls, stripping off his shoes, accom-
plished the daring feat, running up its smooth front like a
cat. This circumstance gave it its name.
Not far from this ledge is another, called Granny Star-
bird's Ledge. An immense boulder, many thousand tons in
weight, a great portion of which has been blown to pieces
and used on the railroad, formerly rested on a shelf of this
ledge. Under this large rock an old lady, named Starbird,
many years ago, took shelter froma heavy, desolating storm
of rain. On her way, on horseback, to see a sick person,
being a doctress by profession, she took shelter under this
rock, one night, as some protection against the storm. The
ground was too wet to lie down ; so, to protect herself and
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 247
horse from the pelting of the rain, she stood and held him
by the bridle all night. In this condition, with sleepless
attention she realized all the terrors of the storm. She saw
every flash of lightning, heard every peal of thunder that
broke over her, and keenly felt every gust of the tempest
that swept by her shallow retreat. Her situation was any-
thing but desirable. She bore, however, her exposure with
a hardy spirit, and awaited the light of morning with a calm-
ness such as few beside herself could exhibit. At leno-th the
light of day began to appear, but there was no cessation of
the storm. This continued in its strength, and the rain fell
in torrents on the projection of rock over her head. Still
the wind howled around her. About noon the clouds retired,
the sun shone out, and she resumed her journey. It is not
strange that, from such a circumstance, the ledge under which
she rested that fearful night should ever since bear the name
of '• Granny Starbird's Ledge."
A lead mine was discovered a few years since in the north-
west part of this town, on a hill-side, and in the bed of a
small mountain rivulet. The ravine is a deep gap in the
mica-slate rocks which form the principal mass of the moun-
tain, and in this are numerous veins of quartz and brown
spar, with veins of lead, zinc and copper ore. The veins of
ore contain much brown spar, or carbonate of lime, and iron
in the form of rhomboids and in foliated masses. The black
blende fills the narroAV parts of the vein, and the swells or
pockets are filled with very pure and heavy masses of the
argentiferous galena, almost free from the zinc ore. Sixteen
hundred and eighty grains of this Shelburne lead yield three
grains of fine silver.
On a Mr. Burbank's farm, in this town, where the Andros-
coggin river cuts through the intervales, are large numbers
248 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
of forest trees buried in the alluvial soil at the depth of from
ten to twelve feet. The trees project from the bank into the
river, and are generally found to lie in a nearly horizontal
position, the tops pointing to the northward. The wood is
but little altered, and is sufficiently sound to be sawed, many
of the maples having been dug out and manufactured into
wheels for wagons. From the magnitude of the stumps of
trees that are found on the surface, which are estimated to be
at least two hundred years old, and from the fineness of the
strata of alluvial matter covering the buried trees, it is evi-
dent that they must have been buried there for a great length
of time. The prevalence of clay over and around them
accounts for their not having undergone decomposition ; the
exclusion of air and the prevention of the circulation of
water having contributed to their preservation.
Some of the first settlers in the town of Shelburne were
Hope Austin, Benjamin and Daniel Ingalls. These moved
into it in the year 1770. In 1772 came Thomas Green
Wheeler, Nathaniel Porter and Peter Poor, who was after-
wards killed by the Indians.
In 1780 came Moses Messer, Capt. Jonathan Rindge, Jon-
athan Evans and Simeon Evans, all valuable men, who left
a good impress on the general character of their posterity.
One of them was particularly a worthy man, and conspicuous
in his day for the many moral virtues he exhibited. His
name was fragrant with piety in all the region about him.
Mr. Daniel Ingalls was generally known and highly esteemed
in all the vicinity of the White Mountains. A sense of the
divine mercy seemed to be ever present with him, whether he
sat in the house, or walked by the way. In his journeyings,
he has been heard frequently, on alighting from his horse,
and while drinking at some spring by the roadside, to ejacu-
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 249
late, '-How good the Lord is, to furnish so plentifully this
refreshing water to drink ! " He exhibited religion in its best
light. In his conversation and general deportment he pre-
sented it in a manner to show its real character. He was
cheerful, and yet you would very seldom say he verged to
levity ; sober when he should be, and yet seldom seen with
an aspect of sadness or gloom on his face. He was a man of
much prayer, and always attached as much importance to the
duties as he did to the doctrines of religion; as much to
what commended its practice as he did to its precept. Many
interesting anecdotes have been told of him in our hearing,
some of which we shall here relate. He once took a journey
of considerable length with Col. David Page — a cotemporary
of his living in Conway. In the course of it they tarried
together during a night at the house of a friend. On rising,
the colonel suggested to Mr. Ingalls whether he had not bet-
ter, that morning, omit family worship, which it was his
usual practice to perform, and make the most of the day, by
taking an early start. In his opinion this omission of worship
would be best, because in the time required to perform it they
might catch their horses, and be ready the sooner to start after
breakfast. To all this Mr. Ingalls, often called Deacon In-
galls, kindly replied, '' No, colonel, no ! let us worship first."
This was enough. The colonel, highly respecting the deacon,'
submitted. They took breakfast, and then had worship, and
while they worshipped, the horses both came up to the bars
of the pasture, near the house, and stood there waiting to be
taken.
Another slight incident, transpiring after his death, clearly
shows how Mr. Ingalls was esteemed in his life. His death
made a deep sensation in tfee region where he was known,
and that was widely extended. At Conway the news was
250 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
received by all with sadness. Said a man in this town, as
the news was announced to him in the field where he was at
work with others, " How straight Deacon Ingalls went up to
heaven when he died ! " and, pointing upward with his ex-
tended arm, he continued, "No eagle ever went up straighter
into the sky than he did when he breathed his last breath."
This very serious appearance and language was the more
noticeable, because previous to this he had generally been a
very rude man, and seemed often to take pleasure in annoying
the deacon with infidel cavils.
Moses and Robert Fletcher Ingalls, the two eldest sons of
Deacon Ingalls, came to Shelburne soon after their father.
They were both valuable men, yet quite different in their
general characteristics. Their days were spent near each other,
in the discharge of mutual kindnesses, and still you would
seldom see two brothers more unlike. Moses was quick and
irritable naturally, wdiile Fletcher was more cool and even in
his disposition. Moses was all life and energy in whatever
he undertook — a grand pioneer for a new country. No hard-
ships or discouragements seemed, in the least, to repress his
energies. He w^as bold to a proverb, as his ascent of the
ledge called by his name fully proves. Nor were his wit and
shrewdness less than his courage. He was especially fond of
hunting moose and bears.
One Sabbath morning, unknown to his father, he joined his
companions and started on a hunt. They followed down the
Androscoggin a few miles, when they espied a large moose
in the river eating water-grass. Ingalls gave him a shot.
The moose escaped, as they supposed, uninjured. On his
return home, being asked by his father where he had been,
he replied that he had been out^ hunting, seen a moose, and
had a shot at him, but did not kill him. To this his father
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 251
replied, with ftilse discretion we think, '' No, Moses ! that -was
the devil you shot at, instead of a moose. How dare you so
break the Sabbath ? " Some few days after this, Moses, pass-
ing down the river, found the moose dead, killed by the shot
he had given him the previous Sabbath. Returning home,
with exultation marked on his countenance, he said, " Father,
the devil is dead!" — "What do you say?" replied his
father. " Why, Moses, what do you mean?" — "Mean,
father! " said he in return, " mean, why I mean as I said,
the devil is dead. You said the creature I shot at the other
day was the devil, and, if so, he is dead, because I have just
found the creature I know to be the one I shot at, and he is
dead enough." Long after that the report went, Moses shot
the devil.
Robert Fletcher Ingalls, familiarly called " Uncle
Fletcher," to whom we have already referred as the younger
brother of Moses, resided, all his days, in the first framed
house ever built in Shelburne. This house is still standing,
owned by his son-in-law, Barker Burbank, Esq. Some of
the boards on it, still to be seen, were cut with a whip-saw,
an instrument much used in early times.
In his youth, this Mr. Ingalls was very mirthful, but
afterwards became more manly and serious in his deportment.
He was respected, by all that knew him, as a man of genuine
piety and Christian benevolence. He aimed at all times, and
everywhere, to be doing good. To the cause of temperance,
especially, he was an early and ardent friend. The first
temperance meeting, we think, ever had under the shadow of
these mountains, was under his direction and appointment.
Among the various means he took to stay the evil, was the
formation of a body, called the " Cold Water Army,"
designed to embrace especially the youth of both sexes in
f
252 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTO^^.
that region. Bj dint of much effort, he brought most of
these in town, under fifteen years of age. into it. He regarded
it as a sort of child in his old age, and spared no toil in labor-
ing for its extension and prosperity. On the fourth of July,
the year before his death, in a procession formed for celebrat-
ing the day, he was put at the head of his army and marched
to the meeting-house to listen to an oration. After the ora-
tion, by request, he addressed the young soldiers of the army.
And it was an address, as we have been told, worth hearing ;
kind, instructive and pathetic. Scarcely an eye in the
assembly was free from tears when the old man sat down.
Among many impressiv^e counsels and expostulations, he
uttered on this occasion, these were a few : ''I charge you,"
turning himself to the parents of the children, and the citizens
of the town, " I charge you, in the name of Heaven, to bring
up these children right. Train them in the good way of
temperance an&^obriety ; guard them from evil as you would
the most precious jewels put into your hands." He spoke in
this way till there was not an unfeeling heart in the assembly.
And now he is dead we may suppose he is still speaking to
some of the survivors of that tearful assembly through the
sweet and clear recollections of his looks and words.
The history of Shelburne is strikingly diversified with
scenes of toil and hardships endured by its early settlers.
Mr. Hope Austin with his family, consisting of a wife and
three children, moved into this town April 1st, 1781. At
that time there was five feet of snow on the ground. All the
way from Bethel they waded through this depth of snow,
occasionally going on the ice of the Androscoggin river, along
which their path lay. The furniture was drawn by Mr.
Austin and two hired men, on hand-sleds. IMrs. Austin went
on foot, carrying her youngest child, nine months old, in her
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 253
arms, with Judith .the eldest girl, six years of age, and little
James, then four years, trudging by her side. They went,
in this way, at least twelve miles to their place of residence.
"When they arrived at their new home, they found simply the
walls of a cabin without floor or roof To make a shelter
from the rains and snows, they cut poles and laid them across
the walls to serve as the support of a roof On these they
laid rough shingles covering a space large enough for a bed.
With no more covering on its roof, and with only some
shingles nailed together and put into one of the ^des for a
door, they lived till the next June.
Then they covered all its walls, and gave it an entire roof
For something to shelter their cow, they dug a large square
hole in the snow, down to the ground, and covered it over
with poles and boughs. This served as a house till the snow
went off, and then the poor cow needed no*^ shelter but the
open heavens. Thus they lived quietly and happily, if not
very comfortably, till August, the time of the Indian mas-
sacre.
An account of this has been given, in part, in the narrative
of the captivity of Nathaniel Segar. What was omitted by
him, not coming under his observation, we shall here give.
Segar tells us that a party of Indians from the woods, painted
and armed with tomahawks, came upon him and some others
while in a field at Bethel, bound them, and after plundering
the house and making a rude assault upon the wife of one of
the prisoners, started them off, saying they were prisoners
and must go to Canada. The first halt they made was at
Gilead, where they killed and scalped Mr. James Pettengill.
After this they crossed the Androscoggin with these pris-
oners, and went to the house of Hope Austm in Shelburne.
Here they searched for plunder. Mr. Austin being away
22
254 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
from home, they told his wife to remain- in the house, and
she should not be hurt. Hurrying on, they Avent to the
house of Capt. Rindge, further up the river. Here they
killed and scalped Peter Poor, and took Plato, the colored
man, prisoner. So far Segar, in his narrative, has traced
their course, though much more minutely in its various de-
tails. Now, leaving him to pass on his way to Canada with
the Indians, we shall take up those parts of the sad scene
which he did not witness. Hope Austin, who was at Capt.
Rindge's at the time the Indians and their prisoners went into
his own house, when they approached Capt. Rindge' s, after
seeing Poor killed, and Plato taken prisoner, fled immediately
across the Androscoo^orin. Followino; down this river a mile
or two, he came to the house of Mr. Daniel Ingalls. Here
he found his three children. His wife had been here, brought
over the river in a boat by Mr. Ingalls, but had just gone
back to her house on an important errand. The children
came, qne with a Mrs. Wentworth, who waded the river with
it in her arms, and the other two in the boat with their
mother. Mrs. Austin had gone back to her house just before
her husband came, in company with Mrs. Wentworth, to get
some meal and bring it to Ingalls' , she having more of that
article than any other one in the vicinity. Very soon after
Austin arrived at Mr. Ingalls', most of the neighbors came
hurrying in, excited by the news of the sad affair that had
just taken place near Rindge' s house.
Mrs. Austin and Mrs. "Wentworth not returning so soon as
they were expected, the whole company crossed the river and
went to Mr. Austin's house. Here they found them making
all haste to gather the meal and return to Mr. Ingalls'. But
after consulting awhile, and reflecting that there might be
danger in all the houses, they concluded to take the meal
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. ZOD
and some maple sugar, and go to the top of a mountain near
by, and spend the night. They did this, and, after ascending
its precipitous side, spent the night on the summit, in full
hearing of the whoopings and shoutings of the Indians. From
this circumstance the mountain has since been called " Hark
Hill."
Finding, on their return from this mountain the following
morning, that there were signs of Indians still in the neigh-
borhood, they fled to Fryburg, all the way through the
forest, fifty-nine miles from Shelburne. Here they remained
till the danger was passed. Then again they sought their
home in the wilderness. The season being unpropitious, the
return company, numbering about twelve persons, old and
young, made their way back through many hardships and
sufferings. It was March, and a large quantity of snow was
on the ground. Their journey about half accomplished, they
encountered a terrible storm of rain. The men were com-
pelled to stand out in the open air, and buffet its force through
one whole night, while the women and children were protected
from it only by ticks of beds drawn over poles. These
exposures they endured with noble courage, and at length
reached the end of their journey.
One of the most terrible encounters with wolves ever put
on record is said to have taken place in this town, A Mr.
Austin, returning home on a time with his team, overtook an
Indian, bent almost double with the heavy pack on his back.
Kindly he offered the Indian a ride, which the weary man
gladly accepted. During the ride, Austin asked the Indian
his name. He replied, somewhat facetiously, that John
Peter or Peter John suited him, just which it pleased the
fancies of others to call him. At the junction of two roads
they separated, the Indian shouldering again his heavy load,
256 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
and going in an opposite direction to the team. After leav-
ing Mr. Austin, a pack of famished wolves attacked the poor
Indian with all the fury of starvation. How long the hattle
lasted we know not, nor how many remained of the hungry-
pack to devour the Indian ; but when the spot was visited
not long after, seven carcasses of huge wolves lay beside the
clothes and bones of their slayer. Seven of the monsters he
had slain ere he himself yielded the struggle.
Leaving the Atlantic and St. Lawrence railroad at Straf-
ford, and following up the Connecticut river to the boundary
between New Hampshire and Canada, you come to a little
river, one of the tributaries of the Connecticut, called
" Hall's Stream." On its bank a poor soldier named Hall
was drowned. The starved man dragged his skeleton body
to the bank of the stream to drink. His head hung over a
little descent, and, unable to raise it, he drowned, the water
playing with his long hair when he was found.
At the time of the deplorable situation of the American
army near Quebec, especially after the fall of the lamented
Montgomery, the commander in the unsuccessful attack upon
it, things became so distressing, that desertion among the
famished soldiers was deemed almost a virtue. Twelve of
them made their appearance in Shclburne in the autumn of
1776. They were first discovered by a negro in the employ-
ment of Capt. Rindge, who succeeded, after much persuasion,
in inducing them to follow him to the house of his master.
Here, so far exhausted were they with hunger, that they
required the strictest attention in order to be kept alive.
As soon as they were sufficiently recruited, they gave an
account of the scenes through which they had passed. They
told how they succeeded in getting away from the army near
Quebec. They followed the course of the Chaudiere river
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 257
for a long distance, till at length they crossed the high lands
and came to the Magallaway river, down which they passed
to its confluence with Clear Stream, at a place called Enrol.
Here they left one of their number, too feeble to follow them
any further. On receiving this information, Capt. Rindge
immediately prepared himself with provisions and other things
necessary for a journey in the wilderness, and started in
quest of the soldier left behind. He took with him Moses
Ingalls, to whom we have already referred, then a young
man about twenty years of age. With great speed and toil
they pursued their course till they came to the place desig-
nated by the soldiers in Shelburne as the one where tjj^y left
their fainting comrade. After looking round, they soon found
him. He had moved but little from the spot where he had
been left. He lay nearly across his gun, with his long hair
in the water, dead. They buried him on the shore of the
stream, and, as a memorial of the poor fellow, changed the
name of the little river from Clear to "Hall's Stream."
22*
CHAPTER XIX
GORHAM.
WHITK MOUNTAIN INDIANS. COL. CLARK. MOLLY OCKETT. PEOL STTS-
UP. INDIAN ELOQUENCE. — GORHAM. INFLUENCE OF THE RAILROAD
UPO *IT. — ALPINE HOUSE. GLEN HOUSE. MOUNT WASHINGTON ROAD.
CARRIAGES. BUILDING OF THE " SUMMIT HOUSE." WEATHER ON THE
SUMMIT IN MAT. — ORIGIN OF PEABODY RIVER. — WONDERFUL ENDUR-
ANCE OP COLD.
A FEW things remain yet to be said concerning the White
Mountain Indians. Amid the obscurity and uncertainty
which shroud the many traditions respecting them, we think
the following facts to be authentic. During the last years of
the American Revolution, the northern Indians seem to have
determined to make a final struggle for their hunting-grounds
and home, and Pennacook, or Rumford Palls, in Maine, was
selected as the scene of their resistance to white encroachments.
No general battle was fought, but after committing many
murders and barbarities on the settlers, and greatly annoying
them, they retired, forgetting their revenge in the sad and
weak condition of their tribe. One Tom Hegan, whom we
have before mentioned, was particularly active in waylaying
and killing -the whites. He figures conspicuously in all the
cruel Indian stories of this region. Sometimes in the employ
of the British, and sometimes impelled onward by his own
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 259
deep hatred, he was very bold, and bloody, and barbarous,
and for a long time a terror to the settlers.
A Col. Clark, of Boston, had been in the habit of visiting
annually the White Mountains, and trading for furs. He
had thus become acquainted with all the settlers and many
of the Indians. He was much esteemed for his honesty, and
his visits were looked forward to with much interest. Tom
Hegan had formed the design of killing him, and, contrary
to his usual shrewdness, had disclosed his plans to some of
his companions. One of them, in a drunken spree, told the
secret to Molly Ockett, a squaw who had been converted to
Christianity, and was much loved and respected by the whites.
She determined to save Clark's life. To do it, she must
traverse a wilderness of many miles to his camp. But
nothing daunted the courageous and faithful woman. Setting
out early in the evening of the intended massacre, she reached
Clark's camp just in season for him to escape. Tom Hegan
had already killed two of Clark's companions, encamped a
mile or two from him. He made good his escape, with his
noble preserver, to the settlements. Col. Clark's gratitude
knew no bounds. In every way he sought to reward the
kind squaw for the noble act she had performed. For a long
time she resisted all his attempts to repay her, until at last,
overcome by his earnest entreaties and the difficulty of sustain-
ing herself in her old age, she became an inmate of his fam-
ily, in Boston. For a year she bore, with a martyr's endur-
ance, the restraints of civilized life ; but at length she could
do it no longer. She must die, she said, in the great forest,
amid the trees, the companions of her youth. Devotedly
pious, she sighed for the woods, where, under the clear blue
sky, she might pray to God as she had when first converted.
Clark saw her distress, and built her a wigwam on the Falls
260 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
of the Pennacook, and there supported her the remainder of
her days. Often did he visit her, bringing the necessary
provision for her sustenance.
It is the tragical end of this same Tom Hegan, we think,
which is so commonly remembered by many of the old inhab-
itants in Maine, even to this day. "He was tied upon a
horse, with spurs on his heels, in such a manner that the
spurs continually goaded the animal. When the horse was
set at liberty, he ran furiously through an orchard, and the
craggy limbs of the trees tore him to pieces."
A daughter of this Molly Ockett married one Peol Susup,
we think the one who was afterwards tried for murder at
Castine. This Peol Susup was a Penobscot Indian ; but the
northern and eastern tribes freely intermarried, we believe.
" All the tribes between the Saco and the St. John, both in-
clusive, are brothers."
As a specimen of Indian oratory, the speech of John
Neptune, the chief of the tribe, at the trial of Susup, may
not be uninteresting. " The case was nearly as follows : —
On the evening of the 28th of June, 1816, this Indian was
intoxicated, and at the tavern of one Knight, at Bangor
(whether he had procured liquor there with which to intoxi-
cate himself, we are not informed) ; and being noisy and tur-
bulent. Knight endeavored to expel him from his house.
Having thrust him out of doors, he endeavored to drive him
away, and in the attempt was stabbed, and immediately died.
On his arrest, Susup acknowledged his guilt, but said he was
in liquor, and that Knight abused him, or he had not done
it. Being brought to trial in June, the next year, at Cas-
tine, by advice of counsel he pleaded not guilty ; and, after a
day spent in his trial, a verdict was rendered according to
the defence set up, manslaughter.
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 261
,'*' After the sentence was declared, Susup was asked bj the
court if he had anything to say for himself; to which he
replied, ' John !N'eptune will speak for me.' Neptune rose
up, and, having advanced towards the judges, deliberately
said, in English :
" ' You know your people do my Indians great deal wrong.
They abuse them very much, — yes, they murder them.
Then they walk right off ; nobody touches them. This
makes my heart burn. Well, then, my Indians say, "We
will go kill your very bad and wicked men." No, I tell 'em,
never do that thing — we are brothers. Some time ago, a
very bad man about Boston shot an Indian dead. Your
people said, surely he should die ; but it was not so. In the
great prison-house he eats and lives to this day. Certainly
he never dies for killing Indian. My brother say let that
bloody man go free — Peol Susup too. So we wish. Hope
fills the hearts of us all. Peace is good. These my In-
dians love it well. They smile under its shade. The white
men and re(J men must be always friends. The Great Spirit
is our father. I speak what I feel.'
'• Susup was sentenced to another year's imprisonment,
and required to find sureties for keeping the peace two years
in the penal sum of five hundred dollars, when John Nep-
tune, Squire Jo Merry Neptune, of his own tribe. Captain
Solmond, from Passamaquoddy, and Captain Jo Tomer,
from the river St. John, became his sureties in the cogni-
zance "
Gorham is a rough, unproductive township, lying on the
northerly base of the mountains. It was formerly called
Shelburne Addition ; but was incorporated by its present
name, June 18th, 1836. Numerous streams descend from
the mountains, through this town, into the Androscoggin.
262 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN UISTORY.
The opening of the Atlantic and St. Lawrence Railroad brought
this little town out from the greatest obscurity, and it has
become one of the great resorts for the travelling community.
Its peculiarly favorable situation for viewing the mountains
■was never known, until travellers, posting through its borders
for other destinations, were compelled to admire its beauties.
Immediately on the completion of the railroad to this
point, the Alpine House was erected, and the announcement
made that the cars set passengers down at the very base of
the White Mountains. People, for a moment, were dumb
with astonishment. It had never been supposed that there
was any north or south, or east or west, to these old heights ;
but that every one who visited them must make up his mind
for a long stage-coach ride through Conway or Littleton,
and ultimately be set down at the Crawford or Fabyan's.
That the cars should actually carry visitors to the base of the
mountains was something which every one had supposed
would take place in the far-off future, but not until they
themselves had ceased to travel ; but it was certainly so ;
and the Alpine House and Gorham had become familiar
words to travellers.
The Alpine House is a large hotel, owned by the railroad
company. It is some distance from the base of the moun-
tains, which are seldom ascended from this point ; but for
quiet and comfort, and beautiful drives, it is surpassed by no
house at the mountains. A beautiful little village has sprung
up around it, consisting mostly of buildings owned by the
company. The post-ofl5ce is kept here, and the telegraph
aifords an excellent opportunity to business men to visit the
mountains, and attend to their business at the same time.
Mount Moriah, Randolph Hill, Berlin Falls, and .Lary's,
should all be visited before the traveller takes his departure.
<
<
z:
<
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 263
The Glen House is seven miles from the Alpine House, in
the vallev of the Peabodj river, immediately under Mount
Washington, and in the midst of the loftiest summits in the
■whole mountain district. The house is situated in Bellows'
Clearing, which contains about a hundred acres. For a base
view of the mountains, no spot could be selected so good.
Several huge mountains show themselves proudly to view, in
front of the piazza, nothing interveni'ng to obscure their giant
forms. ' ' You see them before you in all their noble, calm
and silent grandeur, severally seeming the repose of power and
strength. On the left is the mountain bearing the uwrthiest
name our country ever gave us. Toward the right of its
rock-crowned summit rise, in full view, the celebrated peaks
of Adams and Jefferson — the one pointed, the other rounded.
On both -wings of these towering summits are the tops of
lesser elevations. In an opposite direction, fronting the
' patriot group,' of gigantic forms, is the long, irregular
rise of Carter Mountains."
The carriage road* to the summit of Mount Washington
starts from this point. We have described this road in a
previous chapter, but find the following additional facts in a
late Boston paper. Such a gigantic enterprise cannot be too
often referred to. '' The Mount Washington Road Company
are now pushing on the work of grading up the mountain,
as rapidly as possible. Between two and three miles are fin-
ished, and the whole is to be completed this fall. The car-
riages, of which we have just seen a model, are to be of
omnibus form, each to hold twelve persons. The vehicles
are to be drawn by four horses. The passengers will not sit
facing each other, nor facing the front, but half way between
these two positions. A separate seat is arranged for each
♦ See engraviog of Carriage Road, page 89. The Hotel seen at the summit
of Mount "Washington in the engraving is not yet built.
264 IXCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN UISTORY.
passenger, and each carriage has only twelve seats inside.
Tlie body of the carriage is so arranged as to be raised in
front in ascending, and in the rear in descending the moun-
tains, so as to always keep the body on a level. The brake
is 80 applied to the wheels as to insure perfect safety, being
operated much in the same way as railroad-car brakes.
The only difference is, that these are moved by the feet of
the driver instead of his hands. A safety-strap passes up
into the carriage, and, by a ring lying on the bottom, the
motion of the horses may be arrested by any one of the pas-
sengers, if necessary.
"The carriages are to be built by Downing and Sons, Con-
cord, N. H., and with a view of embodying these improve-
ments, which are all made by D. 0. Macomber, Esq., Presi-
dent of the Road Company, they have constructed the model
examined by us yesterday. The character of Downing and
Sons, and their fame as omnibus and carriage builders, is a
guaranty that the workmanship will be of a superior kind,
and worthy of the elevated use of the vehicles."
The building of the Summit House, on the top of Mount
Washington, was a noble undertaking. No one but a Yankee
would ever have thought of building a house where hereto-
fore men had hardly been able, on account of the cold, and
wind, and storms, to remain long enough to obtain a satisfac-
tory view of what surrounded them. The bold thought, we
believe, is due to Joseph S. Hall, who was a guide from the
Notch House for many years, and who saw the necessity of
a shelter at the summit,
Mr. Hall disclosed his plans to a Mr. Rosebrook, a brother
farmer of Jefferson, and together they determined to under-
take the task. No one surely owned the top of Mount
"WashingtcHi ; no one ever thought of owning it, save one
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 265
Nazro. a moon-mad Jew, who sought to estabh'sh tolls around
the summit, and himself sat down to collect the fees* But to
make all sure, a lawyer was employed to search the records
at Concord, and it was fully ascertained that the State of
New Hampshire had never granted to any one the acre of
solid rock which crowned Mount Washington. J. M. Thomp-
son, Esq., the landlord of the Glen House, granted them for
a small compensation the use of his bridle-path, over which
to transport their material ; and the j&rst day of June, 1852,
they broke ground, or rather rock, for their house, and, the
twenty-fifth day of July, sat down to dinner in it, with the
outside completed. The state of the atmosphere on the
summit, during these early months, may be imagined from an
account of an ascent made in the month of May, the 9th
instant, this year, 1855.
'' The second and third miles we found the snow from two
to four feet deep, and with sufficient crust for snow-shoeing.
At the old ' half-way camp,' we left our snow-shoes, and pro-
ceeded on an icy crust, so solid that a heel stamp would
scarcely dent it. All the high mountain streams are yet
fettered by the strong chain of winter, and in several places
we were compelled to cut stepping-places in the ice with our
hatchets, that we might advance. In this manner we at last
arrived at the foot of the highest crag, when, trumpeted along
by the deafening roar of high wintry wind, a frost-cloud
came over us, and shrouded us in white. We found our
houses yet firmly resisting the destructive power that freely
moves around them in this exposed latitude ; and after much
difficulty succeeded in entering the Tip-Top house by a back
window. The doors and windows of both houses were securely
covered with a glistening crust of thick frost, and against the
doors snow was banked up so solid, that even A\ith a ;;oodaxe
23
266 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
and spade, I think we could not have lived to cut away an
entrance, with the wind and sleet so strong against us. I
can say truly, that, entering as we did on one side sheltered
by rocks from the w^ind, we were compelled to make constant
and active exertion to keep from freezing, w^ith thick gloves
and heavy outside coats. In short, we went prepared with
a thorough winter dress."
A camp was built about half way up the mountain, in the
small growth of spruce and pine, which was to be their
home while building the house. Several tough, scrubby
mountain horses and pack-saddles were purchased, and a
number of stout, able-bodied men were hired. Thus pre-
pared, they at length commenced operations. A few com-
menced blasting heavy blocks of stone from the solid
mountain itself, and laying up the walls of the house. A
few were employed down at the camp in hewing timbers and
riving shingles, and the remainder brought up from the valley
below, on their own shoulders, and on the horses, boards and
^^Jixins^^ for the finishing. Those on the summit could
work but a few hours during the day, and some days not
any. Occasionally, clouds of sleet and snow would come
drifting over the summit, so frosty and biting, that the
utmost exertion could only save them from being thoroughly
numbed. Their only safety then was in fleeing to their
camp. Thus whole days would be spent in going to and
from their work. Around the summit it would appear all
clear and comfortable, and up they would go to their labor.
Hardly would they be fairly commenced, when some sudden
storm would come upon them, and down they would be forced
to go to their shelter. Seldom more than two or three con-
secutive hours could they work at once. The house was
located under the lee of the highest rock on Mount Wash-
,>-,;! ;i!
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 267
ington, and was laid out forty feet long, and twenty-two feet
wide. The walls were four feet thick, laid in cement, and
every stone had to be raised to its place by muscular strength
alone.
While these were laying the walls, the material for finish-
ing and furnishing were being dragged up from the Glen
House, a distance of six miles. Lime, boards, nails, shingles,
timbers, furniture, crockery, bedding and stoves, all had to
be brought up by piecemeal on the men's or horses' backs.
No one ever went up without taking something — a chair,
or door, or piece of crockery. Four boards (about sixty
feet) could be carried up at once on a horse's back, and,
but one trip could be made daily. Mr. Rosebrook, a young
giant, carried up at one time a door of the usual length,
three feet wide, three and one half inches thick, ten pounds
of pork, and one gallon of molasses.
The walls were raised eight feet high, and to these the
roof was fastened by strong iron bolts ; while over the whole
structure were passed strong cables, fastened to the solid
mountain itself The inside was thrown, primitive fashion,
into one room, in which the beds were arranged, berth-like,
for the most part on one side of the room, in two tiers, with
curtains in front. A table, capable of seating thirty or
forty persons, ran lengthwise of the room. At one end of
the room a cooking-stove and the other furniture of a
kitchen were placed, with a curtain between it and the table.
At the other end was a small stove, in which was burned
mountain moss. ' The walls are perfectly rough, outside and
in • a little plaster upon the inside merely fills up the chinks.
The house trembles and creaks in the gale, but stands strong.
Says one : " The Summit House is quite as good a place as
a ' cottage chamber,' wherein to listen to the strain,
'2(jH incidents in white mountain history.
' Which is played upon the shingles,
By the patter of the rain.'
" It seems like the times of bygone days, when we used
to sleep in a chamber with nothing overhead but the humble
roof.
• Every tinkle on the shingles
Has an echo on the heart,
And a thousand dreary fancies
Into busy being start,
And a thousand recollections
Weave their bright hues into Avoof,
As I listen to the patter
Of the soft rain on the roof. ' "
'•The father of Oliver Peabody, who resided at Andover,
Mass., in one of his excursions into New Hampshire, met
with an adventure, which has connected his name with the
geography of the country, and which, for that reason, as well
as for its singularity, may perhaps with propriety be men-
tioned here. He was passing the night in the cabin of an
Indian, situated on the side of a mountain, in the neighbor-
hood of Saco river. The inmates of this rude dwelling were
awakened in the course of the night by a loud noise, and had
scarcely time to make their escape, before their hut was swept
away by a torrent of water rushing impetuously down the
hill. On reconnoitring the ground, they found that this
torrent had burst out suddenly from a spot where there was
no spring before. It has continued flowing ever since, and
forms the branch of the Saco which bears the name of Pea-
body's river.''
A late number of the Staie of Maine contains the fol-
lowing narrative, which it almost curdles one's blood to read.
We were in Shelburne, at the time it transpired, collecting
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 269
materisil for our work, and saw ourselves young Goulding,
who was at the hotel under the care of a physician. Who
besides these men would not have yielded to death in such an
extremity ?
" On January 31st, Nathaniel Copp, son of Hayes D.
Copp, of Pinkham's Grant, near the Glen House, White
Mountains, commenced hunting deer, and was out four suc-
cessive days. On the fifth day, he left again for a deer killed
the day previously, about eight miles from home. He dragged
the deer (weighing two hundred and thirty pounds) home
througjiche snow, and at one o'clock, P. M., started for
another one discovered near the place where the former was
killed, which he followed until he lost the track, about dark.
He then found he had lost his own way, and should, in all
probability, be obliged to spend the night in the woods, the
thermometer at the time ranging from thirty-two to thirty-
four degrees below zero.
" Despair being no part of his composition, with perfect
self-possession and presence of mind, he commenced walking,
having no provisions, matches, or even a hatchet ; knowing
that to remain quiet was certain death. He soon after heard
a deer, and, pursuing him by moonlight, overtook him, leaped
upon his back, and cut his throat. He then dressed him,
and, taking out the heart, placed it in his pocket for a trophy.
He continued walking twenty-one hours, and the next day,
at about ten o'clock, A. M., he came out at or near Wild
river, in Gilead, in Maine ; having walked on snow-shoes the
unparalleled distance of forty miles without rest, a part of the
time through an intricate growth of underbrush.
' ' His friends at home becoming alarmed at his prolonged
absence, and the intensity of the cold, three of them started
in pursuit of him, viz., John Goulding, Mr. Hayes D.
23*
270 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
Copp, his father, and Thomas Culbane. They foll^yed his
track, until it was lost in darkness, and, by the aid of dogs,
found the deer which young Copp had killed and dressed.
They then built a fire, and waited five or six hours for the
moon to rise, to enable them to continue their search. They
again started, with but the faintest hopes of ever finding the
lost one alive ; pursued his track, and, being out twenty-six
hours in the intense cold, found the young man of whom they
were in search.
'' Goulding froze both his feet so badly that it is feared he
will have to suifer amputation. Mr. Copp and MiBKulbane
froze their ears badly. No words can reward the heroic self-
denial and fortitude with which these men continued an almost
hopeless search, when every moment expecting to find the
stiffened corpse of their friend.
"Young Copp seems not to have realized the great danger
he has passed through, and, although his medical advisers
say he cannot entirely recover the use of his limbs for from
three to six months, talks with perfect coolness of taking
part in hunts which he planned for the next week."
CHAPTER XX
drake's version op CHOCORUA'S curse. — POPULAR LEGEND CONNECTED
WITH THIS CURSE. — CAUSE OF THE DISEASE AMONG CATTLE IN ALBANY.
REMEDY FOR THE DISEASE. BEAVERS. MILITARY INCIDENT. FRAN-
CONIA. — IRON MINE. EXTENT OF THE MINE. KNIGHT'S MOOSE STORY.
VILLAGE OF BETHLEHEM. VIEW OF THE MOUNTAINS FROM BETHLE-
HEM. EARLY SETTLEI*IENT. FIRST ROAD TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS
FROM BETHLEHE3I. EXPEDIENT TO KEEP FR03I FREEZING. FIRST TOWN
MEETING. — BUILDING BRIDGE OVER AMMONOOSUCK. — SCARCITY OF PRO-
VISION. — EXTREMITY TO WHICH INHABITANTS WERE DRIVEN. — BETHLE-
HEM OP THE PRESENT DAY.
*' What a rich, sonorous word, by the way, that ' Chocorua ' is ! To my
ears it suggests the wildness, freshness and loneliness, of the great hills.
It always brings with it the sigh of the wind through mountain pines."
We have given in another place what Drake, the author
of the " History of North American Indians," considers the
correct account of Chocorua's curse. There is, however, a
heautiful story connected with it, whether true or not we
cannot say, which should not be passed over unnoticed.
A small colony of hardy pioneers had settled at the base
of this mountain. Intelligent, independent men, impatient
of restraint, they had shunned the more thickly-settled por-
tions of the country, and retired into this remote part of
New Hampshire. ''But there was one master-spirit among
272 INCIDENTS IN UHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
them ^vho was capable of a higher destiny than he ever ful-
filled.
"The consciousness of this had stamped something of proud
humility on the face of Cornelius Campbell, — something of
a haughty spirit, strongly curbed by circumstances he could
not control, and at which he seemed to murmur. He assumed
no superiority ; but, unconsciously, he threw around him the
spell of intellect, and his companions felt, they knew not
why, that he w^as ' among them, but not of them.' His
stature was gigantic, and he had the bold, quick tread of one
who had wandered frequently and fearlessly among the ter-
rible hiding-places of nature. His voice was harsh, but his
whole countenance possessed singular capabilities for tender-
ness of expression ; and sometimes, under the gentle influence
of domestic excitement, his hard features would be rapidly
lighted up, seeming like the sunshine flying over the shaded
fields in an April day.
"His companion w^as one calculated to excite and retain the
deep, strong energies of manly love. She had possessed ex-
traordinary beauty, and had, in the full maturity of an
excellent judgment, relinquished several splendid alliances,
and incurred her Other's displeasure, for the sake of Cor-
nelius Campbell. Had political circumstances proved favor-
able, his talents and ambition would unquestionably have
worked out a path to emolument and fame ; but he had been
a zealous and active enemy of the Stuarts, and the restora-
tion of Charles II. was the death-warrant of his hopes.
Immediately flight became necessary, and America was the
chosen place of refuge. His adherence to Cromwell's party
was not occasioned by religious sympathy, but by political
views too liberal and philosophical for the state of the peo-
ple ; therefore, Cornelius Campbell sought a home with our
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 273
forefathers, and, being of a proud nature, he withdrew with
his family to the solitary place we have mentioned.
" A very small settlement in such a remote place was, of
course, subject to inconvenience and occasional, suffering.
From the Indians they received neither injury nor insult.
No cause of quarrel had ever arisen; and, although their
frequent visits were sometimes troublesome, they never had
given indications of jealousy or malice. Chocorua was a
prophet among them, and, as such, an object of peculiar
respect. He had a mind which education and motive would
have nerved with giant strength ; but, growing up in savage
freedom, it wasted itself in dark, fierce, ungovernable pas-
sions. There was something fearful in the quiet haughtiness
of his lips ; it seemed so like slumbering power — too proudjo
be lightly roused, and too implacable to sleep again. In his
small, black, fiery eye, expression lay coiled up like a beau-
tiful snake. The white people knew that his hatred would
be terrible ; but they had never provoked it, and even the
children became too much accustomed to him to fear him.
' ' Chocorua had a son, nine or ten years old, to whom Car-
oline Campbell had occasionally made such gaudy presents
as were likely to attract his savage fancy. This won the
child's afiections, so that he became a familiar visitant, almost
an inmate, of their dwelling ; and, being unrestrained by the
courtesies of civilized life, he would inspect everything, and
taste of everything which came in his way. Some poison,
prepared for a mischievous fox, which had long troubled the
little settlement, was discovered and drunk by the Indian boy,
and he went home to his father to sicken and die. From that
moment jealousy and hatred took possession of Chocorua's
soul. He never told his suspicions ; he brooded over them
274 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
in secret, to nourish the deadly revenge he contemplated
against Cornelius Campbell.
'' The story of Indian animosity is always the same. Cor-
nelius Campbell left his hut for the fields early one bright,
balmy morning in June. Still a lover, though ten years a
husband, his last look was turned towards his wife, answer-
ing her parting smile ; his last action a kiss for each of his
children. When he returned to dinner, they were dead —
all dead ! and their disfigured bodies too cruelly showed that
an Indian's hand had done the work !
"In such a mind gVief, like all other emotions, was tempest-
uous. Home had been to him the only verdant spot in the
desert of life. In his w^ife and children he had garnered up
all his heart ; and now that they were torn from him, the
remembrance of their love clung to him like the death-grap-
ple of a drowning man, sinking him down, down, into dark-
ness and death. This was followed by a calm a thousand
times more terrible — the creeping agony of despair, that
brings with it no power of resistance.
' It was as if the dead could feel
The icy worm around him steal.'
'• Such, for many days, was the state of Cornelius Camp-
bell. Those who knew and reverenced him feared that the
spark of reason was forever extinguished. But it rekindled
again, and with it came a wild, demoniac spirit of revenge.
The death-groan of Chocorua would make him smile in his
dreams; and, w^hen he waked, death seemed too pitiful a
vengeance -for the anguish that w^as eating into his very soul.
" Chocorua' s brethren were absent on a hunting expedition
at the time he committed the murder, and those who watched
his movements observed that he frequently climbed the high
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 275
precipice, Tvhich afterwards took his name, probably looking
out for indications of their return. Here Cornelius Camp-
bell resolved to effect his deadly purpose. A party was
formed, under his guidance, to cut off all chance of retreat,
and the dark-minded prophet was to be hunted like a wild
beast to his lair.
'' Th^ morning sun had scarce cleared away the fogs, when
Chocorua started at a loud voice from beneath the precipice,
commanding him to throw himself into the deep abyss below.
He knew the voice of his enemy, and replied, with an In-
dian's calmness, ' The Great Spirit gave life to Chocorua,
and Chocorua will not throw it away at the command of the
white man.' ' Then hear the Great Spirit speak in the
white man's thunder ! ' exclaimed Cornelius Campbell, as
he pointed his gun to the* precipice. Chocorua, though fierce
and fearless as a panther, had never overcome his dread of
fire-arms. He placed his hands upon his ears, to shut out
the stunning report; the next moment the blood bubbled
from his neck, and he reeled fearfully on the edge of the
precipice. But he recovered himself, and, raising himself on
his hand, he spoke in a loud voice, that grew inore terrific as
its huskiness increased, ' A curse upon ye, white men !
May the Great Spirit curse ye when he speaks in the clouds,
and his words are fire ! Chocorua had a son, and ye killed
him while the sky looked bright ! Lightning blast your
crops ! Winds and fire destroy your dwellings ! The Evil
Spirit breathe death upon your cattle ! Your graves lie in
the war-path of the Indian ! Panthers howl and wolves fat-
ten over your bones ! Chocorua goes to the Great Spirit. —
his curse stays with the white man ! '
"The prophet sunk upon the ground, still uttering inaudible
curses, and they left his bones to whiten in the sun. But
276 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
his curse rested on that settlement. The tomahawk and
scalping-knife were busy among them ; the winds tore up
trees, and hurled them at their dwellings ; their crops were
blasted, their cattle died, and sickness came upon their
strongest men. At last the remnant of them departed from
the fatal spot to mingle with more populous and prosperous
colonies. Cornelius Campbell became a hermit, •seldom
seeking or seeing his fellow-men ; and two years after he was
found dead in his hut."
This disease among cattle at one time excited considerable
interest among scientific men. Prof Dana, of Dartmouth
College, was appointed, in 1821, to visit the town of Burton,
now Albany, and learn, if he could, the cause of the disease.
After much investigation he found the difficulty to be in the
water. It was a weak solution of muriate of lime. He
recommended as a remedy or preventive weak ley^ or ashes,
or soap-suds. A certain kind of jniid, however, had been
discovered by the citizens, which was used with great benefit.
'' This mud is found on a meadow, and, during the summer,
it is collected for use ; it is made into balls as large as an
ordinary potato, and forced down the animal's throat ; by it
the tonic effect of the muriate of lime is prevented, and the
bowels are kept lax. I visited the spot where the mud is
procured. A spring issues from the place, and the water
brings with it a grayish-white matter, which is deposited in
the rill leading from the spring. This whitish substance is
the matter in question. After being heated to redness, it
becomes snow-white; when digested in an acid, a slight
effervescence occurs, a portion is dissolved, and the remainder
has the character of fine, white, siliceous sand ; the portion
dissolved in the acid was found by appropriate tests to be
carbonate of lime.^^
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 277
Albany was mucli frequented by the Indians for the ex-
cellent hunting which it afforded. Its many streams abounded
in otter and beaver, after they had begun to disappear in
many of their old resorts. The beaver ever retires before
the advance of civilization. Of the hundreds of ponds and
dams which they had reared on these mountain streams^
many of which were still existing in our boyhood, scarcely
one now is to be found. Traces of their dams and houses
are occasionally to be seen, but the ingenious builders are
gone. The Indian considered them rich game, and hunted
them as unsparingly as the whites, and still they seem to
accompany the one in his wanderings, and shun the other.
Our clattering mills and destruction of the forests are more
unpleasant to them than the wild war-whoop and tomahawk
of the Indian. A traveller thus remarks on the peculiar
attractiveness of their young : "A gentleman long resident
in this country espied five young beavers sporting in the
water, leaping upon the trunk of a tree, pushing one another
off, and playing a thousand interesting tricks. He approached
softly, under cover of the bushes, and prepared to fire on the
unsuspecting creatures ; but a nearer approach discovered to
him such a similitude between their gestures and the infantile
caresses of his own children, that he threw aside his gun."
The population of this town was, for many years, very
small. The superstitious fear of the Indian's curse, perhaps,
— certainly the difficulty of keeping cattle, — kept its number
of inhabitants much reduced. The soil is fertile, and along
its streams are beautiful intervales, which, since the discovery
of a remedy for the disease, are fast beginning to be occu-
pied. A most amusing incident is told of one Farnham in
the first legal meeting of its citizens. Warrants had been
sent out for a "May training." Every soldier in town had
24
278 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
assembled. Officers were chosen, and, after tlie choice, come
to form the company, it consisted of only one private.
'' Looking wistfully upon his superiors, standing in terrible
array before him, he said : ' Gentlemen, I have one request
to make ; that is, as I am the only soldier, I hope your honors
will not be too severe in drilling me, but will spare me a little,
as I may be needed another time.' He could form a solid
column, he said, ' but it racked him shockingly to display.' "
The objects of interest at Franconia we have described in a
previous chapter. The town was granted, under the name
of Morristown, in the year 1764, to Edward Searle and
others. Permanent settlement was made in 1774 by Capt.
Artemas Knight, Lemuel Barnett, Zebedee Applebee, and
others. The town owes its rise and prosperity to the discovery
of iron ore in its vicinity. There are two establishments for
working it in town. The lower works are situated on the
south branch of the Ammonoosuc river, and are OAvned by the
New Hampshire Iron Factory Company. Their establish-
ment is very extensive, consisting of a blast furnace, erected
in 1808, an air furnace, a forge and trip-hammer shop. The
ore is obtained from a mountain in the east part of Lisbon,
three miles from the furnace, and is considered the richest in
the United States, yielding from fifty-six to sixty-three per
cent.
The vein has been opened and wrought forty rods in length
and one hundred and forty-four feet in depth. The ore is
blasted out. The mine is wrought open to daylight, and is
but partially covered to keep out the rain. The first miners,
ignorant of any other means of discovering the veins than
such as the pickaxe afforded, wasted much labor and expense
in fruitless search. At one place they cut a gulley one
hundred and twenty feet long into the solid granite ; and at
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 279
another there is a similar cut, seventy-one feet in length.
Many curious and remarkable caverns have thus been formed
in the rocky hill-side.
Numerous interesting minerals have been brought to light,
and may be found among the rejected masses which have
been thrown out. The most interesting and abundant are a
deep brownish-red manganesian garnet, crystallized and gran-
ular epidote, prismatic and bladed crystals of hornblende.
Artemas Knight, whom we have mentioned as one of the
first settlers of the town, during a severe famine which pre-
vailed in its early history, one bleak December's day, shoul-
dered his gun, and made his way through the deep snow to
Round Meadows in Button Woods, a distance of ten miles or
more. On his way he forded Gale's river, a tributary of the
Ammonoosuc, his wet clothes almost instantly freezing as he
came out of the water. The water was quite deep, and he
was nearly in the same condition as though he had swam the
stream. At Round Meadows he killed a moose weighing over
four hundred pounds, skinned it with his jack-knife, cut it up
with his hatchet, buried three quarters in the snow, and with
the fourth on his back, returning to his hut in Franconia,
again fording Gale's river, and reached home in the evening
of the same day.
The village of Bethlehem is about seventeen miles west of
the Notch of the While Mountains, on the road to Franconia
and Littleton. The road here passes over a broad, undulat-
ing hill, in an open and airy situation, which gives the trav-
eller an opportunity to admire, at his leisure, the view of the
range of the White Mountains, the finest and most satisfactory
to be anywhere seen. Mount Washington is here brought
into its true place in the centre of the chain, and takes the
precedence which belongs to its greatly superior breadth and
280 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
height. The mountains on each side are well arranged in
their proper and subordinate situations ; the pointed peaks of
Adams, Jeiferson and Clay, contrasting finely with the
smoother and flatter summits of Monroe, Franklin, Pleasant
and Clinton.
Jonas Warren, Nathaniel Snow, Nathan Wheeler and
others, made a permanent settlement in Bethlehem in 1790.
It was then known by the name of " Lord's Hill." Like the
early settlers of all these towns, privations, sufferings and
hardship, were their daily lot. Now their cattle would wan-
der away and be lost in the broad pasture in w^hich they
roamed, requiring days and sometimes weeks to find them.
Without carts or carriages of any kind, they performed all
their labor, piling the bags of corn upon the steers' backs, and
marching them through the rough forest twenty-five miles to
mill, when meal in the settlement got low. Capt. Rose-
brook, not long after the settlement of the town, projected a
road and with others cut out a decent path from his own lone
hut in Nash and Sawyer's location, to his neighbors on Lord's
Hill. A log bridge was built over the Ammonoosuc, but did
not withstand long the many sudden rises of the rapid
stream.
The settlers of this town were hardy, persevering men, more
nearly resembling Capt. Rosebrook than any we have before
met. To help out their small stock of Jlovisions a party went
at one time to Whitefield ponds for fish. On their return in
the night a thick fog arose, completely hiding the trees which
they followed as their guides, and, ere they were aware, they
were lost. The cold was intense ; they had no fire-arms, and
life hung on their devising some method to keep themselves
warm. Cutting down long, slender trees, they trimmed them,
and, placing them across a log, with a man at each end, they
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 281
commenced rapidly pushing them back and forwards, as men
do a " cross-cut " saw. Diligently they plied their toothless
saws all the night, working as only men work for their lives.
Lord's Hill was incorporated into a town by the name of
Bethlehem, December 25th, 1799, and the first town-meeting
was held in the house of Amos Wheeler. The following year
the town voted to raise four dollars to defray town charges,
twenty-four dollars for schooling, and sixty dollars for bridges
and highways. In April of the same year the project of build-
ing a bridge over the Ammonoosuc was started, and the fol-
lowing month the town voted, in town-meeting convened, to
build the bridge, and raised three hundred and ninety dollars
to do it with. So scarce was provision during the construc-
tion of this bridge, that all the poor laborers, working in the
water all day, had to eat was milk-porridge, carried to them
hot by their wives. Eight cents were allowed per hour to
the men for their services, and six cents for a yoke of oxen.
So great was the famine at this time that the citizens were
obliged to desist from their labors, go into the woods, and cut
and burn wood sufficient to make ashes enough to load a team
of four oxen with potash. This load of potash they dispatched
with a teamster to Concord, Mass., a distance of one hundred
and seventy miles. It was four weeks ere the teamster re-
turned with provisions. During his absence they saved them-
selves from starvation only by cooking green chocolate roots
and such other plants as would yield them any nourishment.
The little settlement of early times is now a flourishing
village. Two beautiful churches send their spires up to
heaven from its midst. Five large mills for sawing lumber
are in constant operation, and a large factory manufactures
yearly one hundred and forty tons of starch, requiring thirty-
three thousand bushels of potatoes.
24*
CHAPTER XXI.
GEOLOGY.
INDIAN THEORY OP THE CREATION OP THE WORLD. — INDIAN IDEA OF THE
CREATION OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. DR. JACKSON 's THEORY. SIR
CHAISES LYELL'S THEORY.
The rude Indian's idea of the creation of this world, with
its hills and mountains, and the formation of the fearful
Agiocochook, and the theories of scientific scholars concern-
ing the origin and history of these mountains, we may be
pardoned for placing in the same chapter.
'' Water at first overspread the face of the world, which is
a plain surface. At the top of the water a musk-rat was
swimming about in different directions. At length he con-
cluded to dive to the bottom, to see what he could find on
which to subsist ; but he found nothing but mud, a little of
which he brought in his mouth, and placed it on the surface
of the water, where it remained. He then went for more
mud, and placed it with that already brought up ; and thus
he continued his operations until he had formed a consider-
able hillock. This land increased by degrees, until it over-
spread a large part of the world, which assumed at length its
present form. The earth, in process of time, became peopled
in every part, and remained in this condition for many years.
Afterward a fire run over it all, and destroyed every human
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 283
being except one man and one woman. They saved them-
selves by going into a deep cave, in a large mountain, where
they remained for several days, until the fire was extin-
guished. They then came forth from their hiding-place, and
from these two persons the whole earth has been peopled."
ORIGIN OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.
" Cold storms were in the northern wilderness, and a lone
red hunter wandered without food, chilled by the frozen
wind. He lost his strength, and could find no game ; and
the dark cloud that covered his life-path made him weary of
wandering. He fell down upon the snow, and a dream car^
ried him to a wide happy valley, filled with musical streams,
where singing-birds and game were plenty. His spirit cried
aloud for joy ; and the ' Great Master of life ' waked him
from his sleep, gave him a dry coal and a flint-pointed
spear, telling him that by the shore of the lake he might
live, and find fish with his spear, and fire from his dry coal.
One night, when he had laid down his coal, and seen a warm
fire spring therefrom, with a blinding smoke, a loud voice
came out of the flame, and a great noise, like thunder, filled
the air, and there rose up a vast pile of broken rocks. Out
of the cloud resting upon the top came numerous streams,
dancing down, foaming cold; and the voice spake to the
astonished red hunter, saying, ' Here the Great Spirit will
dtvell, and watch over his favorite children ! ' "
GEOLOGICAL.
Dr. Jackson, in his report of New Hampshire, thus speaks
of the White Mountains : —
284 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
" The White Mountains are the centre of a most interest-
ing geological section. If a measure is applied to a correct
map of the Northern and Middle States, taking the White
Mountains for a centre, and measuring south-west and north-
east, it will be noticed that the secondary rocks are nearly
equi-distant from this centre of elevation, on each side of the
axis, and the beds and included fossils will correspond in a
remarkable manner, indicating that when the strata were
horizontal, they formed a continuous deposit, effected under
nearly the same conditions.
"If we estimate the strata of Vermont and Maine as horizon-
tal, by imagining the primary rocks which separate them to be
removed, and the lines of stratification brought to coincide in
direction, it is evident that the whole of New England would
be regarded as sunk far below the level of the ocean, and a
space would still remain between the ends of the strata
where the primary rocks had been removed. Now, since
the strata were formed when the present rocks were beneath
the sea, we may suppose the whole of the primary unstrati-
fied rocks to have been below the stratified deposits, and, by
a sudden outburst and elevation, to have been more or less
broken up, altered in composition, and included between
masses of the molten gneis and granite. Thus, we may ac-
count for the loss of a portion of the disrupted strata, while
we also explain the intercalation of masses of argillaceous
slate in the primary series, and the metamorphosis of the
sedimentary deposits by igneous action. A heaving sea
of molten rocks, probably bearing on its surface the sedi-
mentary strata, elevated, overturned, and effected chemical
changes in them, the results of which we behold along the
line of junction of the two classes of rocks.
'' The reader would be able better to conceive of this state
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 285
of things, by the contemplation of the breaking up of a vol-
canic crater, or may figure the scene in his mind by imagin-
ing a frozen lake, with successive and thick layers of snow
and ice, to be broken up by an earthquake, and the whole
mass suddenly frozen while in the highest state of disturb-
ance. This, however grand the scale, would not give a suf-
ficiently enlarged idea of the vast movements of the earth's
crust, nor of the changes which the materials must have un-
dergone in the immense periods of geological time ; for the
action of a comparatively moderate heat for ages effects
changes in the position of elementary particles which are
not duly appreciated. This hypothesis will appear more
plausible to those who will take the trouble to go over the
ground from one end of the section to the other, noting the
changes which are manifested in the order of strata, and
considering the known causes of chemical action on the in-
gredients of rocks. It will be observed that the sedimen-
tary deposits have all been disturbed by upheaval, and that
portions of strata are included in the unstratified rocks,
showing their posterior eruption, while, in some places, the
fracturing of strata has been still more remarkable, a com-
plete breccia being formed with their comminuted fragments,
and the thick pasty rocks of eruption.
" Occasionally, the mechanical power of elevated granite
is manifested by the complete overturning, or doubling back
of large sheets of mica slate, and its chemical efiects are
seen in the remarkable induration of the rock along the line
of junction, those slabs, when not bent, being chosen by the
quarrymen, on account of their superior firmness.
" The geological features of Mount Washington possess
but little interest. The rocks in place consisting of a coarse
variety of mica slate, passing in gneis. which contains a jfew
286 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
crystals of black tourmaline and quartz. The cone of the
mountain and its summit are covered Avith myriads of angu-
lar and flat blocks and slabs of mica slate, piled in confusion
one upon the other. They are identical in nature with the
rocks in place, and bear no marks of transportation or abra-
sion by the action of -water.''
Sir Charles Lyell, the eminent English geologist, thus
"writes concerning these mountains : —
" The flora of the uppermost region of Mount "Washington
consists of species which are natives of the cold climate of
Labrador, Lapland, Greenland and Siberia, and are impatient,
says Bigelow, of drought, as well as of both extremes of
heat and cold ; they are, therefore, not at all fitted to flour-
ish in the ordinary climate of New England. But they are
preserved here, during winter, from injury, by a great depth
of snow, and the air in summer never attains, at this eleva-
tion, too high a temperature, while the ground below is
always cook When the snow melts they shoot up instantly
with vigor proportioned to the length of time they have been
dormant, rapidly unfold their flowers, and mature their fruits,
and run through the whole course of their vegetation in a
few weeks, irrigated by clouds and mist.
"If we attempt to speculate on the manner in which the
peculiar species of plants now established on the highest
summits of the White Mountains, were enabled to reach those
isolated spots, while none of them are met with in the lower
lands around, or for a great distance to the north, we shall
find ourselves engaged in trying to solve a philosophical
problem, which requires the aid, not of botany alone, but of
geology, or a knowledge of the geographical changes which
immediately preceded the present state of the earth's surface.
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 287
We have to explain how an Arctic flora, consisting of plants
specifically identical with those which now inhabit lands
bordering the sea in the extreme north of America,
Europe, and Asia, could get to the top of Mount Washing-
ton. Now, geology teaches us that the species living at
present on the earth are older than many parts of our exist-
ing continent ; that is to say, they were created before a
large part of the existing mountains, valleys, plains, lakes,
rivers and seas, were formed. That such must be the case in
regard to the island of Sicily, I announced my conviction iu
1833, after first returning from that country. And a simi-
lar conclusion is no less obvious to any naturalist who has
studied the structure of North America, and observed the
wide area occupied by the modern or glacial deposit
before alluded to,* in which marine fossil shells of livino:
but northern species are entombed. It is clear that a great
portion of Canada, and the country surrounding the great
lakes, was submerged beneath the ocean when recent species
of mollusca flourished, of which the fossil remains occur more
than five hundred feet above the level of the sea, near Mon-
treal. I have already stated that Lake Champlain was a
gulf of the sea at that period, that large areas in Maine
were under water, and I may add that the White Moun-
tains must then have constituted an island, or group of
islands. Yet, as this period is so modern in the earth's his-
* " Some of the concretions of fine clay, more or less calcareous, met with
in Xew Hampshire, in this ' drift ' on the Saco river, thirty miles to the north
of Portsmouth, contain the entire skeletons of a fossil fish of the same species
as one now living in the Northern Seas, called the capetan (Mallotus vilhsiis),
about the size of a sprat, and sold abundantly in the London market, salted
and dried like herrings. I obtained some of these fossils, which, like the asso-
ciated shells, show that a colder climate than that now prevailing in this region
was established in what is termed 'the glacial period.'"
288 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
tory as to belong to the epoch of the existing marine fauna,
it is fair to infer that the Arctic flora now contemporary with
man was then also established on the globe.
"A careful study of the present distribution of animals and
plants over the globe has led nearly all the best naturalists
to the opinion that each species had its origin in a single
birthplace, and spread gradually from its original centre to
all accessible spots fit for its habitation, by means of the
powers of migration given to it from the first. If we adopt
this view, or the doctrine of * specific centres,' there is no
difficulty in comprehending how the cryptogamous plants of
Siberia, Lapland, Greenland and Labrador, scaled the heights
of Mount Washington, because the sporules of the fungi,
lichens and mosses, may be wafted through the air for indefi-
nite distances, like smoke ; and, in fiict, heavier particles are
actually known to have been carried for thousands of miles
by the wind. But the cause of the occurrence of Arctic
plants of the phsenogamous class on the top of the New Hamp-
shire mountains, specifically identical with those of remote
Polar regions, is by no means so obvious. They could not,
in the present condition of the earth, effect a passage over
* the intervening low lands, because the extreme heat of sum-
mer and cold of winter would be fatal to them. Even if
^ they were brought from the northern parts of Asia, Europe
and America, and thousands of them planted round the foot
of Mount Washington, they would never be able, in any
number of years, to make their way to its summit. We
must suppose, therefore, that originally they extended their
range in the same way as the flowering plants now inhabiting
Arctic and Antarctic lands disseminate themselves. The in-
numerable islands in the Polar seas are tenanted by the same
species of plants, some of which are conveyed as seeds by
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 289
animals over the ice -when the sea is frozen in winter, or by
birds ; while a still larger number are transported by floating
icebergs, on which soil containing the seeds of plants may be
carried in a single year for hundreds of miles. A great body
of geological evidence has now been brought together, to
some of which I have adverted in a former chapter, to show
that this machinery for scattering plants, as well as for carry-
ing erratic blocks southward, and polishing and grooving the
floor of the ancient ocean, extended in the western hemi-
sphere to lower latitudes than the White Mountains. "When
these last still constituted islands in a sea chilled by the melt-
ing of floating ice, we may assume that they were covered
entirely by a flora like that now confined to the uppermost
or treeless region of the mountains. As the continent grew
by the slow upheaval of the land, and the islands gained in
height, and the climate around their base grew milder, the
Arctic plants would retreat to higher and higher zones, and
finally occupy an elevated area, which probably had been at
first, or in the glacial period, always covered with perpetual
sno^v. Meanwhile, the newly-formed plains around the base
of the mountains, to which northern species of plants could
not spread, would be occupied by others migrating from the
south, and perhaps by many trees, shrubs and plants, then
first created, and remaining to this day peculiar to North
America.
"The period when the White Mountains ceased to be a group
of islands, or when, by the emergence of the surrounding
low land, they first became connected with the continent, is,
as we have seen, of very modern date, geologically speak-
ing. It is, in fact, so recent as to belong to the epoch when
species now contemporaneous with man already inhabited this
planet. But, if we attempt to carry our retrospect still fur-
25
290 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
ther into the past, and to go back to the date when the rocks
themselves of the White Mountains originated, we are lost in
times of extreme antiquity. No light is thrown on this
inquiry by imbedded organic remains, of which thaw strata of
gneis, mica schist, clay slate and quartzite, are wholly devoid.
These masses are traversed by numerous veins of granite and
greenstone, which are therefore newer than the stratified
crystalline rocks which they intersect ; and the abrupt man-
ner in which these veins terminate at the surface, attests how
much denudation or removal by water of solid matter has
taken place. Another question, of a chronological kind, may
yet deserve attention ; namely, the epoch of the movements
which threw the body of gneis and the associated rocks into
their present bent, disturbed, and vertical positions. This
subject is also involved in considerable obscurity, although it
seems highly probable that the crystalline strata of New
Hampshire acquired their internal arrangements at the same
time as the fossilferous beds of the Appalachian or Alleghany
chain ; and we know that they assumed their actual strike
and dip subsequently to the origin of the coal measures,
which enter so largely into the structure of that chain."
CHAPTER XXII.
EMPERATURE OF THE WEATHER AT THE MOUNTAINS.
THERMOMETRICAL TABLE. SYNOPSIS OF THE WEATHER. CO^IPARISOX 0?
WEATHER WITH LOXa ISLAND WEATHER. EARTHQUAKES. THUNDEE-
STORMS. — WIND. COLD AND FROST. CLEARNESS OF THE ATMOSPHERE.
— LENGTH OF DAYS. — SPRINGS. — COMBUSTION.
For the following statement of the weather on the summit
of Mount Washington, we are indebted entirely to the record
of Mr. Nathaniel Nojes, of Boston. Mr. Nojes commenced
a residence on the summit of Mount Washington, on the 7th
of June, 1853, which he continued until noonday of the
16th of September, — one hundred consecutive days (with
the exception of an absence of one week), — during all which
time he kept a record of the temperature of the atmosphere,
from observations with a thermometer, commencing with the
8th of June, at sunrise, noon and sunset, and continuing
these observations three times daily until the 15th of Sep-
tember.
It has b'een found by comparison that the temperature of
Mt. Washington is more even than that of any other place
at which a record has ever been kept. Before many years
have elapsed, physicians, without doubt, will recommend to
patients who require an even and cool temperature, a residence
at the summit of Mt. Washington during the summer months.
292
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
THERMOMETRICAL TABLE.
JUNE, 1853. 11 JULY, 1853. 1! AUG., 1853. || SEPT., 1853. |
1
.2
n
3
-M
♦5
1
1—1
a-
a
d
"C-
g
CO
1—1
1
3
^
P
'1
i—l
1
xn
8
32
40
34
1
43
55
45
1
42
59
50
1
41
51
47
9
31
45
40
2
32
46
38
2
49
51
49
2
45
58
55
10
38
52
48
3
44
53
48
3
48
58
49
3
50
58
55
11
44
47
43
4
52
60
54
4
49
54
48
4
52
55
54
12
32
48
44
5
42
51
42
5
45
54
53
5
50
58
57
13
43
56
47
6
39
48
39
6
51
60
49
6
57
59
56
14
48
60
55
7
29
47
37
7
46
53
48
7
56
49
45
15
53
59
55
8
38
50
49
8
49
58
48
8
30
40
36
16
54
62
55
9
41
49
45
9
50
52
52
9
33
44
41
17
54
56
52
10
45
50
45
10
48
59
57
10
37
40
32
18
43
48
40
11
45
54
48
11
52
62
59
11
28
29
27
19
39
49
42
12
40
52
45
12
52
60
59
12
24
29
30
20
50
66
58
13
38
49
45
13
59
60
56
13
32
36
39
21
48
57
50
14
42
59
49
14
58
60
50
14
38
46
42
22
54
58
55
15
52
62
51
15
45
57
53
15
45
50
47
23
58
60
55
16
61
56
52
16
50
56
55
16
38
42
24
56
42
35
17
44
49
37
17
49
62
55
25
30
36
32
18
39
55
48
18
48
58
51
26
24
37
30
19
52
53
50
19
33
37
33
27
32
44
38
20
42
50
41
20
30
35
36
28
34
43
35
21
38
45
46
21
36
46
45
29
45
64
58
22
42
60
56
22
39
40
35
30
54
61
53
23
50
66
56
23
33
43
42
24
54
64
59
24
37
46
45
25
52
63
55
25
44
42
36
26
50
51
45
26
31
47
42
27
43
59
49
27
42
47
47
28
39
47
45
28
34
35
32
29
44
59
54
29
31
46
43
30
49
59
56
30
38
51
50
31
50
59
49
31
46
49
46
SYNOPSIS OF THE WEATHER.
The following is a synopsis of the weather during each
month
June, 1853.
Average temperature at sunrise,
Average temperature at 12 M.,
43.3 degrees.
53.5 degrees.
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 293
Average temperature at sunset, 45.7 degrees.
Thermometer stood lowest, 26th day, 24 "
'' '' highest, 20th day, 66 ''
" below freezing at sunrise, 6 days.
" '' " at sunset, 2 ''
The greatest change in any day occurred the 24th, when
the thermometer fell twenty-one degrees from sunrise to sun-
set ; and twenty-six degrees in twenty-four hours. It snowed
for several hours, covering the ground, or rather the rocks,
several inches in depth.
July, 1853.
Average temperature at sunrise,
'' '' " 12, M.,
43.5 degrees.
54.2 ''
" '* " sunset,
47.7 " ,
Thermometer stood highest, 23d day
" lowest, 7th day,
66
29
There was no snow during the month,
and some ice.
but plenty of frost.
August, 1853.
Average temperature at sunrise,
" 12, M.,
44 degrees.
51.5
'' " " sunset.
47.5
Thermometer stood highest, 11th day,
" " lowest, 20th day.
62 "
80 "
On the eighth of the month there was a severe tempest,
accompanied with hail, which fell to the depth of several
inches on the northerly side of the mountain.
September, 1853.
Average temperature at sunrise, 43.2 degrees.
25*
294 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
Average temperature at 12, M., 46.8 "
" " '' sunset, 44.2 ''
Thermometer stood highest, 6th day, 59 ''
'' '' lowest, 12th day, 24 *'
At sunset, the tenth day of this month, the thermometer
stood at the freezing-point, and a snow-storm commenced
during the night, which continued through the whole of the
next day, and until late in the evening, covering the surface
to the depth of nearly a foot. I have seldom, if ever, wit-
nessed a more severe storm in the winter in any place, than
the storm there so early as September 11th. It blew a per-
fect hurricane at times, prostrating a telescope stand belonging
to the proprietors of the Summit House, w^hich was intended
to be of sufficient strength to withstand the hardest gales.
The following comparison of these records with records of
hourly thermometrical observations made upon Brooklyn
Heights, Long Island, near the level of the sea, was taken
from a small circular, prepared by E. Merriam, Esq., of New
York, "together with the thermometrical observations made at
the summit :
''It will be seen, by the annexed tabular statement, that,
in the last twenty-three days of June, the greatest change
during the twenty-four hours, on the summit, was twenty-one
degrees; while on Long Island, during the same term, the
greatest change was thirty degrees, a difference of nine de-
grees in favor of the summit. In July the greatest change
on the summit was eighteen degrees, and on Long Island
twenty-five degrees; making a difference in favor of the
summit of seven degrees. The month of August was still
more equilibrious, the greatest change on the summit being
but seventeen degrees, and, on Long Island, but twenty-
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 295
two degrees ; being five degrees in favor of Mount Wash-
ington. September, from 1st to 15th, the period named
bj both records, was still more equilibrious than August ;
the greatest change on the summit being thirteen degrees,
and on Long Island eighteen degrees; diiFerence in favor
of the summit, five degrees. It therefore most clearly ap-
pears that the temperature of the summit of Mount Wash-
ington is not subjeot to such sudden and great changes as
the temperature of Long Island.
'' The highest temperature on the summit, during the hun-
dred days, was sixty-six degrees, which was at noon on the
20th of June and 23d of July ; and, on Long Island, during
the same time, the highest was ninety-seven degrees, and was
on the twenty- first of June.
" The lowest temperature on the summit in June, was on
the 24th of that month ; twenty-four degrees, or eight degrees
below the freezing-point ; in July, on the 7th, twenty-nine de-
grees ; in August, on the 20th, thirty degrees ; and in Septem-
ber, to the 15th, twenty-four degrees on the 12th. On Long
Island, the lowest temperature in June was forty-four de-
grees on the 9th ; in July, fifty-eight degrees on the 18th ; in
August, fifty-five degrees on the 29th; and of the first
fourteen days in September, fifty-one degrees on the 12th.
^' During the hundred days, the temperature on the summit
of Mount Washington fell to and below the freezing-point on
seventeen days, viz., six in June, two in July, four in
August, and five in September.
" During the hundred days, earthquakes occurred on five
days, viz., on the 17th and 20th of July, at Portland,
Maine ; on the 28th of August, at New Madrid, Mississippi
river ; on the 8th of September, at New Bedford, Mass. ;
and, on the 11th of September, at Biloxi, Louisiana. These
296 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
shocks of earthquake, each and all, reduced the temperature
of the atmosphere upon the summit of Mount Washington
as follows :
"The two shocks of earthquakes at Portland, Maine,
between five and six, A. M., of the 17th of July, reduced the
temperature on the summit from forty-nine to thirty-seven
degrees, or within five degrees of the freezing-point; and
the shock at the same place, on the afternoon of the 20th of
the same month, reduced the temperature of the summit
from fifty to thirty-eight degrees, or within six degrees of the
freezing-point. An earthquake at New Madrid, on the Mis-
sissippi river, on the 28th August, reduced the temperature
at the summit from forty-seven to thirty-four degrees, or one
degree below the freezing-point. On the 7th of September,
the shock of an earthquake was felt at New Bedford, Mass.,
in the evening, which reduced the temperature at the summit
from fifty-six to thirty degrees ; and a shock at Biloxi and
along the lake coast, near New Orleans, on the 11th of Sep-
tember, at five P. M., reduced the temperature on the summit
from forty-nine to twenty-six degrees. Thus it appears
that of earthquakes occurring on or east of the Mississippi
river, on two days in July, one in August, and two in Sep-
tember, and all that we have accounts of occurring within
that district within that length of time, all produced the
same results, in refrigerating the temperature of the atmos-
phere on the summit of Mount Washington."
THUNDER-STORMS.
On the eighth of August, at four P. M., there was a thunder-
storm, attended by some hail, on the summit ; and at the ledge,
about one mile below, on the eastern side, the hail fell to the
depth of several inches. The thunder was heavy, and the
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 297
liglitning vivid : and the crash followed the flash so quickly,
that it seemed difficult to distinguish any perceptible diiference
between the light and the sound. In the evening lightning
was seen in several directions.
A thunder-storm was experienced at the summit on the
13th of August, at one, and again at six, P. M. ; and on
the 14th of the same month, at two P. M., was the heaviest
thunder-storm Mr. Noyes had witnessed during his residence
thus far on the summit. The lightning appeared the most
active at the south-east ; the rain fell in torrents all day, and
during the thunder-storm, at two P. M., the wind was very
severe.
The sound of the thunder at the summit is peculiar, re-
sembling the quick discharge of a cannon, and the sound of
but short duration.
The wind blows steadily with great pressure on the sum-
mit, and not in gusts as in other places. He thinks the
winds are stronger than in the valleys.
COLD AND FROST.
White hoar-frost is occasionally seen on the summit of
the mountain, but not often.
CLEARNESS OF THE ATMOSPHERE.
Mr. Noyes remarks, that he has never taken particular
notice how many mornings in a week the sun rises clear ; but
he thinks not more than three mornings in a week on an
average ; and, immediately preceding the 13th of August, it
had been nearly a week since they had been favored with a
clear sunrise or clear sunset at the summit, the atmosphere
having been" foggy.
Objects can be seen at a greater distance after sunset
298 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
than during sunlight. Mr. Noyes remarks, that he could
distinctly see the Glen House, situate at the foot of the
mountain, -which he computes at two and a half miles distant
in air-line, at nine P. M., about sixty-five minutes^ after
sunset.
LENGTH OF DAYS.
The days are about forty minutes longer on the summit,
that is, between sunrise and sunset, than on the sea level in
the same latitude.
A person hallooing from a position below^ the summit
can be heaid by a person standing on the summit a greater
distance than the same hallooing upon the summit could be
heard down the mountain, evidencing that the sound as-
cends.
SPRINGS.
A- living spring of delicious water, about thirty rods
below the house, on the northern side of the summit, supplies
water abundantly; and while towns in the neighborhood,
near the sea level, were suffering for w^ater, the spring con-
tinued its uniform supply. Water from such a spring must
be of the very best.
THIRST.
In reference to thirst at the summit, Mr. Noyes says:
'^ I am well satisfied, from my own experience, as well as
remarks made by my wife, and other members of the house-
hold, that persons are much more thirsty here than below.
I have drank double or treble the quantity of water here that
I should have required in Boston, although it is much colder
here than there."
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 299
Almost every one -who ascends the mountain is very
thirsty, not only here, but drinking at every little rivulet on
the way up; and these little mountain streams are very
plenty.
COMBUSTION.
Mr. Noyes, in his letter of September 8d, says: ''I
have watched repeatedly to see if smoke ascends here ; but
have never seen it two feet above the ventilator. It always
beats down around the house. When the air is still, wood
burns very slow on the summit, and seems to burn more like
wood in a coal-pit, where it is not allowed much air."
CHAPTER XXIII.
CONCLUSION.
Before we leave these mountains, around which we have
so long detained the reader, let us earnestly invite him to visit
them. If he has already made their acquaintance, let him come
again, and often. Not too often can he drink in the inspira-
tion of these noble hills. K he has never yet stood beneath
their mighty shadow, he cannot do so too soon. New sen-
sations yet await him. Come from the thronged cities and
dusty streets, and refresh yourselves yearly in the clear
atmosphere of these "Crystal Hills." Says the eloquent
Webster: "We believe and we know that its scenery is
beautiful ; that its skies are all healthful ; that its mountains
and lakes are surpassingly grand and sublime.
"If there be anything on this continent, the work of
nature, in hills, and lakes, and woods, and forests, strongly
attracting the admiration of all those who love natural
scenery, that is to be found in our mountain state of New
Hampshire. It happened to me lately to visit the northern
part of the state. It was autumn. The trees of the forest,
by the discoloration of the leaves, presented one of the most
beautiful spectacles that the human eye can rest upon.
But the low and deep murmur of those forests, the fog rising
and spreading and clasping the breast of the mountains,
INCIDENTS IN WUITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 301
"whose heads were still high and bright in the skies, — all
these indicated that a wintry storm was on its wing ; that the
spirit of the mountain was stirred, and that, ere long, the
voice of tempests would be spent. But even this was excit-
ing,— exciting to those of us who were witnesses before, and
exciting in itself as an exhibition of the grandeur of natural
scenery. For my part, I felt the truth of that sentiment
applied elsewhere and on another occasion, that
' The loud torrent and the whirlwind's roar •
Bmt bound me to my native mountains more.' "
Come ; and when you come, come prepared to stay, to
study, to feel them. Select some home beneath their broad
shadows, and each day roam over and among them until they
are yours — their image and their might indelibly fastened in
your memory. " These old settlers are somewhat tardy in
forming intimate acquaintanceships. With them ' confidence
is a plant of slow growth.' Their externals they give to the
eye in a moment, on a clear day; but their character, their
occasional moods of superior majesty, their coy loveliness of
light and drapery — all that makes them a refreshment, a
force, a joy for the rest of your years, they show only to the
calmer eye — to a man who waits a day or two in order to
unthink his city habits, and bide their time. It is utterly
impossible to know what the White Mountains are by whirl-
ing through Conway, and Glen, and Notch, and Franconia,
in a week. Use the week at some one central point. Spend
the same money at one spot that is to spread over the length-
ened journey ; take the proper times for driving out to the
best positions, and the mountains will come to you, which, it
is said, they refused to do for the author of the Koran."
Bring not the cares and anxieties of Wall-street and State-
26
802 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
street, but shake off the verj dust of them from your feet a3
you 'set your faces northward to these summer resorts.
Freedom is an essential element in the air of these moun-
tains, — freedom from the brain-ache and heart-ache attend-
ant upon this money strife. Dollars and cents do not count
in Tuckerman's Ravine, and their jingle is in harsh disso-
nance of the fall of the Thousand Streams. Calculation of
percentage, as one sits and sees the
" Mystei'ies of color daily laid
By the great sun in light and shade," ^
on these rugged, craggy heights, is impossible. Stocks are
valueless when standing at the sources of those mighty
rivers, "which carry fertility, and wealth, and health, to all
New England. Freedom from political prejudice is here
found. Washington and Jefferson suffer no political strifes
or ranklings beneath their shadows. Whigs and democrats
go toiling up their steep sides together, and northerners and
southerners, side by side on the same summit, look off on
the same wide prospect below them. Americans and for-
eigners, descendants from the fathers of the Revolution and
exiles from the iron rod of despotism, all bow in reverence
and acknowledge willing allegiance to
" This family of mountains, clustering around
Their hoary patriarch."
Freedom from the thousand petty annoyances and restraints
of city and village life is here the bliss of the traveller.
Does the exhilarating air stimulate? Go out, and, to the
full capacity of the lungs, wake the echoes of the hills. The
chest all bare, breathe in the pure mountain air, until your
deep tones shall awaken the talk of the hills, peak answering
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 303
to peak in the far-off distance. Is the dress of fashiojiable
life too restraining for climbing over the rough and broken
places ? — throw it off, and, clad in freer, looser garments,
run, and walk, and ramble, the livelong day. No gossip
should be whispered in the beautiful glen ; no petty etiquette
should be observed while standing on the ruins of the terrible
avalanches.
Worshippers and followers of the same great Author of
these mountains may forget their different sects, and bow in
unison around these mighty "altars."
" Not vainly did the early Persian make
His altar the high places and the peak
Of earth-o'ergazing mountains, and thus take
A fit and un walled temple, there to seek
The Spirit, in whose honor shrines are weak
Upreared of human hands. Come, and compare
Columns and idol-dwellings, Goth or Greek,
"With Nature's realms of worship, — earth and air.
Nor fix on fond abodes to circumscribe thy prayer ! "
Come, and amid the works of God study the words of God.
"The Bible came out of a mountain country. The book of
Exodus, which, for poetic sublimity, makes the coloring of
the Iliad pale, should be read, if one would get the true
commentary on it, as Dr. Robinson read the sublimest pas-
sages of it, a few years ago, among the cliffs of Horeb, over-
looking the plateau where the gathered wanderers saw the
mountain quake and blaze. ' Job ' must be studied by an
imagination that can conjure Idumean landscapes and skies.
There are passages in the prophets which no annotations
could interpret to men that had lived on prairies all their
days. And the Psalms, especially, which are dyed in the
spirit of all kinds of scenery, as well as in the most intense
304 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
and varied experiences of the soul, — which interweave with
their rapturous piety imagery and colors caught from the
pastures of Bethlehem, the forests of Horeth, the caves of
Adullam, the wilderness of Engedi, and the mountain fast-
nesses of Ziph, — cannot yield the riches of inspiration to a
formal reading, but must, many of them,' be set under influ-
ences of nature kindred to those which helped to kindle
them, before they will glow and sing themselves anew. The
twenty- third should be read- once in sight of the Connecticut
meadows ; the nineteenth, on a hill overlooking a desert ; the
eighteenth, during a thunder-shower; the eighth, under a
sparkling, frosty night sky ; the sixty-fifth after a rain that
breaks the drought ; then the power of poetry, as well as of
piety, that is in them would be manifest."
" Lo ! in softened grandeur far, yet clear,
Thy battlements stand clothed in heaven's own hue.
To swell as Freedom's home on man's unbounded yiew ! "
Mountains are ever favorable to liberty. They abound
with the very elements of its life and vigor. Survey the
objects they embrace, and you must see the truth of this
remark. These are all free and active in their movements.
No fetter constrains them, no shackle confines them. Its
streams all murmur the tones of freedom as they flow in
their courses. Its eagles all scream of liberty as they wheel
their flight about its romantic slopes, and over its more tow-
ering elevations. The note of every other bird, too, is in
keeping with these. They all chirp exemption from enthral-
ment, as they line its green valleys, or flit along its beautiful
hill-sides.
INIountains are especially favorable to the cause of human
liberty. When driven out from other portions of the world,
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 305
she has always found an asylum in her mountains. There
she is cherished. Nature comes to the protection of her
votary, and throws around him the bulwarks of its rocks and
precipices. These, wherever he comes to them, check the
tyrant in his progress. This has been the case in all past
time. "The inhabitants of our New Hampshire mountains
were, it must be confessed, from the first, rather inclined to
a mutinous spirit. I believe that is common to mountainous
regions in most parts of the world. Scotland and Switzer-
land show the example of hardy, strong men in mountainous
regions, attached to war and to the chase ; and it is not un-
fortunate in our New Hampshire history that this sentiment,
to a considerable degree, prevailed."
May liberty never be driven to our mountain passes. May
we never be forced to these retreats, and the "patriot
group " see tyrants marshalling their troops in these valleys.
0, the voice with which those hoary peaks would almost
speak ! 0, the anguish of Washington !
" I know the value of liberty. I helped pay a large price
for it in the sweat I expended on the field of Monmouth ; in
the cold and suffering T endured at Valley Forge ; in the
dreadful suspense I had on the banks of the Delaware pre-
vious to the battle at Princeton ; and now how can I bear to
see it lost ?
' ' I have stood here with my compeers, for a long time,
watching the movement of things on the broad territory for
whose* good I toiled, with the feeling all the while in me
that, if its inhabitants perpetuated the freedom I helped give
them, I should be well compensated for my sufterings. But,
if they barter it, and ever succumb to a tyrant, either tem-
poral or spiritual, I could never wish to see the sight, but
would gladly cover my head with an unbroken thick veil of
26*
806 INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY.
cloud, as I have sometimes done with passing ones, and never
again look on a land of vassals and slaves.
'* As I have once said, -I say again : I know the value of
liberty, and never, never while I have strength to stand here
as firm as I do, while the vigor is in me still that has enabled
me to buffet so many storms as I have, never, never will I
barter it away. My head shall always be free from the
badge of a slave, towering up toward heaven in a significant
speaking adoration to the God that has formed me."
No oppression, certainly none sustained by law or custom,
can ever exist around the White Mountains. This is a
cheering reflection. No slave can ever live on them, or near
them. They are consecrated to freedom. They are suited
to produce a race of vigorous freemen. We have loved them
in times past. We love them still.
Where'er our wandering footsteps roam,
To tliee our fond aSections cling ;
Land of our love ! our childliood's home !
Land of the cliff and eagle's wing !
How proudly stands the mountain height
That overlooks the vales and streams !
In youth it shone to bless our sight ;
In age it lingers in our dreams.
'T is in the mountain that the heart
Resolves its thought and purpose high
To act the just, the noble part
For God, for truth, and liberty.
How oft has freedom, in the days
Of grief and war's disastrous shocks.
Her shattered banner dared to raise
Once more upon the mountain rocks !
INCIDENTS IN WHITE MOUNTAIN HISTORY. 307
Enthralment cannot climb that height ;
Slaves cannot breathe that upper air ;
Emblem of freemen, — 't is the flight
Of eagles only that is there.
We love thee, land of rocks and rills !
Land of the wood, the lake, the glen !
Great in the grandeur of thy hills.
And greater in thy mighty men."
We say, then, in a few words to close, all ye inhabitants
in this broad land, all ye in every part of her wide domain,
visit these mountains as ye have done, and in larger num-
bers ; breathe their air ; bathe yourselves in their atmosphere,
made rich and refreshing with bud and blossom ; trace their
rivers, and make closer acquaintance with their inhabitants,
and you will get stronger, deeper energies to do life's great
work. And you, inhabitants of the mountains, prize the
privileges you enjoy, the blessings of your birthplace and
home ; trace your way up often to God through some of his
grandest works. Through all your life, in full sight of
them, serve him and your country well ; and then, when life
is done, from the very midst of them you may go up to
occupy those higher delectable mountains, the very sight of
which captivated the soul of Bunyan, — those everlasting
hills on whose shining summits the people of God from every
clime will swell the anthems of eternity.
FINIS.
GUIDE
FROM
NEW YORK AND BOSTON
TO THE
WHITE MOUNTAINS.
BY
NATHANIEL NOYES.
BOSTON
185G.
PREFACE
In the following pages I have endeavored to give an amount
of information and statistics relative to every route that leads
from New York and Boston to the Mountains, that will enable
tourists to select such a one as will suit their time, taste, and
purse.
And, in order that it might be accurate and reliable, I have
obtained the information direct from the officers and agents of the
different railroad, steamboat and stage routes. The routes are
numbered merely for reference, in describing two or more that
start from different points, but unite at some future place, and
become one.
For the use of the cut of the Carriage Road I am indebted to
D. 0. Macomber, Esq., President of the Mount "Washington Car-
riage Road Company ; and for that of the Top of Mount Wash-
ington to J. H. Spaulding, Esq., author of " Historical Relics of
the. White Mountains."
The reader is invited to scan the Advertisements in the last
pages.
PUBLISHER.
FIIOM BOSTON TO ¥HITE MOUNTAINS.
3e=lot:jte 3xro- x.
From Boston, via Boston and Maine, and Grand Trunk Eail-
roads.
STATION IN IIAYMARKET SQUARE, BOSTON.
Trains leave at 7.30 a. m. and 5 p. m., passing through Read-
ing, Lawrence, Haverhill, Exeter, Dover, South Berwick Junction
(junction with Portland, Saco and Portsmouth, R. R.), North
Berwick (stopping five minutes for refreshments), Kennebunk,
Biddeford, Saco, and Portland.
Distance from Boston to Portland, Ill miles.
Time, 4^ hours.
No change of cars between the two places. Passengers who
intend to pass directly through Portland must have their baggage
marked at the Station in Boston for " Portland East."
Passengers taking the first train from Boston, will dine in
Portland, and can proceed at 1.15 p. m., via Grand Trunk Rail-
road, passing through Cumberland, Yarmouth, New Gloucester,
Danville (junction with Androscoggin and Kennebec R. R.),
312 GUIDE.
Mechanic Falls, Paris, Bethel, Grilead, and Shelburne, arriving at
Gorham, N. H., the point of departure for Mount Washington, at
5.30.
Distance from Portland to Gorham, 91 miles.
Passengers taking the second train from Boston, will spend the
night in Portland, and proceed at 7.15 the next morning, arriving
at Gorham at 11.30.
Distance from Boston to Gorham, 202 miles.
Fare $4.00.
Passengers purchasing through tickets have the privilege of
stopping over at Portland, or any station upon the Grand Trunk
Railroad, and proceeding in any subsequent train. "When such
delay is intended, notice should be given to the Conductor, who
will endorse your check.
Stages leave Gorham for Glen House (base of Mount Wash-
ington) upon arrival of each train.
Distance, 8 miles.
Fare, |!l.OO.
Stages leave the Glen House every morning for the Crawford
House, via Cherry Mountain, also via Pinkham Notch.
Distance, via Pinkham Notch, 34 miles.
Fare S3
GUIDE. 313
OXJTI3 3XrO- 2,
From Boston, via Eastern, Portland, Saco and Portsmouth
and Grand Trunk Railroad.
STATION CAUSEWAY STREET, BOSTON.
Trains leave at 7.30 a. m., and 5 p. m,, passing through Lynn,
Salem, Beverly, Ipswich, Newburyport, Portsmouth, South Ber-
wick Junction Cjunction with Portland, Saco and Portsmouth
R. R.), North Berwick (stopping five minutes for refreshments),
Kennebunk, Biddeford, Saco, and Portland.
Distance from Boston to Portland, 107 miles.
Time, 4^ hours.
No change of cars between the two places. Passengers who
intend to pass directly through Portland must have their bag-
gage marked at the Station in Boston for " Portland East.''
Passengers will proceed from Portland same as in route No. 1.
i^oxjTE 3xro. 3-
From Boston, via Steamers Forest City and Lewiston, to
Portland, and Grand Trunk Railroad.
One of the above Steamers leaves the end of Central Wharf,
Boston, every day (Saturday and Sunday excepted), at 7 p. m.,
arriving in Portland about 5 the next morning.
314 GUIDE.
Passengers by this route will take breakfast in Portland, and
can proceed at 7.15, via Grand Trunk Railroad, as in route No. 1,
or can stop at Portland and proceed in any subsequent train.
Fare from Boston to Gorliam, by this route, $3.50.
noxjTiB 3xro. -O:-
From Boston, via Portland, Sebago Lake, Pleasant Moun-
tain and Conway.
The arrangements on this route were not received in time for
the Guide, and it is doubtful whether any are made this season.
DFI.OTJT33 3>a"0- 3
From Boston, via Boston and Maine, and Cocheco Railroads,
and Lake Winnipiseogee.
STATION IN HAYMAEKET SQUARE, BOSTON.
Trains leave at 7^ A. m., and 12 m., for Dover, N. H. (68
miles) ; thence upon Cocheco Railroad to- Alton Bay (28 miles) ;
thence by Steamer Dover (dine on the boat) to WoU'boro' and
Centre Harbor (30 miles), and thence by Stage to Conway (30
miles), arriving same evening.
GUIDE. 315
Passengers by morning train only from Boston will arrive at
Conway same evening. Those taking the second train will pass
the night at Wolf boro' or Centre Harbor, and proceed the next
day to Conway.
Passengers who pass the night at Conway will proceed next
morning for the Mountains (dine at the Old Crawford House),
passing through the Notch, and by the Willey House, arriving at
the Crawford House (24 miles from Conway), the point of depart-
ure for Mount Washino-ton, the same evenincr.
Distance from Boston to Crawford House, 180 miles.
96 miles by railroad, 30 by steamer, and 54 by stage.
Passengers from Boston can buy tickets to Centre Harbor only.
Fare to Centre Harbor, $3.20.
From Centre Harbor to Crawford House, $4.25.
rtoxjTE 3Nro. e
From Boston, via Boston and Maine, Manchester and Law-
rence, Concord, and Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroads,
and Weirs, Lake Winnipiseogee.
STATION IN HAYMARKET SQUARE, BOSTON.
Trains leave at 7.30 a. m., and 12 m., for Lawrence (26 miles) ;
thence upon M. and L. K. K,, to Manchester, N. H. (27 miles) ;
thence upon C. Pv. P. to Concord (18 miles) ; thence upon B. C.
and M. P. P. to Weirs (33 miles) ; thence by Steamer Lady of the
'Slij GUIDE.
Lake, to Centre Harbor (10 miles, dine) ; thence by Stage to Con-
way (30 miles), arriving same eyening.
Passengers by morning train only from Boston will arrive at
Conway same evening.
Those taking the second train will pass the night at Centre
Harbor, and proceed next day to Conway. Passengers who pass
the night at Conway, will proceed to the Mountains next day.
Distance from Boston to Cra^n-ford House, . . . • . .168 miles.
104 miles by railroad, 10 by steamer, 54 by stage.
Fare from Boston to Centre Harbor, $3.20.
" Centre Harbor to Crawford House, $4.25.
nOTJTIE 3xro- T,
From Boston, via Boston and Lowell, Nashua and Lowell, Con-
cord, Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroads, and Lake
Winnipiseogee.
STATION CAUSEWAY STREET, BOSTON.
Trains leave at 7.30 a. m. and 12 m., for Lowell (26 miles) ;
thence upon N. and L. R. E. to Nashua (15 miles) ; thence
upon C. R. R., to Concord (35 miles). Passengers proceed
from Concord same as in route No. 6. Fare the same.
GUIDE. 317
H.OXJTE3 3\ro
From Boston same as in route No. 6 or 7 to "Weirs (Lake
Winnipiseogec) ; thence continuing upon the Railroad to Plymouth
(from Weirs 18 miles, dine) ; thence by Stage to Flume House,
Franconia Notch (24 miles), arriving same evening.
Passengers taking morning train only from Boston, reach Fran-
conia same evening. Those taking second train will pass the
night at Plymouth, and proceed next day to Franconia.
Distance from Boston to Flume House, 148 miles.
124 miles by railroad, 24 by stage.
Time, 10 hours.
Fare, !^5.15.
Stages run daily from the Flume House to the Profile House
(5 miles), White Mountain House (22 miles), and Crawford
House (5 miles).
Distance from Flume House to Crawford House, .... 36 miles.
Fare " '« «« « <c " . . . . $Z.QO.
H.OTJT3E3 »rO
From Boston, same as in route 6 or 7, to Weirs; thence to
Plymouth (dine), continuing upon the Railroad to Wells River
(from Plymouth 42 miles) ; thence upon White Mountain Railroad
to Littleton (20 miles) ; thence by stage to Profile House (11
miles), Flume House (from Profile House 5 miles), or to the Craw-
318 GUIDE.
ford House (23 miles). From the Crawford House the ascent of
Mount Washington is made.
Passengers taking morning train only from Boston reach the
above Houses same evening. Those taking second train will pass
the night at Plymouth, and proceed next day.
Distance from Boston to Profile House, 193 miles.
"Flume House, 198 "
" Crawford House, 205 "
182 miles by railroad, remainder by stage.
Fare from Boston to Profile House, $6.15.
" *' " " Crawford " $6.90.
Time, 12 hours.
FROM NEW YORK TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.
From New York, via Newport, Fall River and Boston.
FROM PIER NO. 3, NORTH RIVER, NEW YORK.
Steamer Bay State, Capt. T. G-. Jewett, leaves pier No. 3,
North Eiver, Monday, "Wednesday, and Friday, and Steamer
Metropolis, Capt. William Brown, Tuesday, Thursday, and
Saturday, at 5 p. m., for Newport and Fall River. Thence by
Railroad to Boston (breakfast) in season to take first train by
either route from Boston to the Mountains.
Fare from New York to Newport, $3.00.
" " Newport to Boston, $2.00.
Passengers intending to stop at Newport must buy ticket only
to that place.
j^^ For routes from Boston, see preceding pages.
320 GUIDE.
From New York, via Stonington, Providence, and Boston.
FROM PIER NO. 2, NORTH RIVER.
Steamer C. Vanderbilt, Capt. W. H. Frasee, leaves Pier No.
2, North River, Menday, Wednesday and Friday, and Steamer
Plymouth Rock, Capt. Joel Stone, Tuesday, Thursday and
Saturday, at 5 p. m., for Stonington; thence by Railroad to Provi-
dence and Boston (breakfast) in season to take first train by either
route from Boston to the Mountains.
Passengers are allowed to stop over at Stonington or Provi-
dence, and proceed in a subsequent train, without additional fare.
Fare from New York to Boston, $5.00.
From New York, via Norwich, Worcester, Nashua, Concord,
Wells River and Littleton, N. H., or Lake Winnipiseogee.
FROM PIER NO. 18, NORTH RIVER, NEW YORK.
Steamer Connecticut, Capt. Wm. Wilcox, leaves Pier No. 18,
North River, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, and Steamer
Commonwealth, Capt. J. W. Williams, Tuesday, Thursday and
Saturday, at 5 p. m., for Norwich, thence by Railroad to Wor-
cester (breakfast), Nashua and Concord, N. H., arriving at the
latter place at 10 o'clock a. m., and proceed by route 6, 8, or 9, in
preceding pages. Or passengers can go from Worcester to
Boston, and thence by either route to the Mountains.
(For further information in regard to this route, see advertise-
ment, page 323.)
GUIDE. 321
From New York, by Railroad, via New Haven, Hartford,
Springfield, &c. &c.
STATIONS 35 CANAL-STREET, NEAR BROADWAY, AND CORNER FOURTH
AVENUE AND TWENTY-SIXTH STREET, NEW YORK.
roD
a New York, . .
. .344 miles.
(C
" *' . .
. .332 "
(C
t< <« ^ ^
. .337 "
Trains leave at 8 and 4 o'clock, passing over Harlem E. E. to
Williams Bridge (15 miles), N. Y. and N. H. E. E., to New
Haven (61 miles), N. H., H. and S. E. E., to Springfield (60
miles), Conn. Eiver E. E. to South Vernon (50 miles), Y. and M.
E. E. to Brattleboro' (10 miles), Y. Y. E. E. to Bellows Falls
(25 miles), S. E. E. to Windsor- (25 miles), Y. C. E. E. to
White Eiver Junction (15 miles), C. and P. E. E. to Wells
Eiver (40 miles), White Mountain E. E. to Littleton, N. H. (20
Miles), thence by Stage to either of the following Houses, namely :
Crawford House, .... 23 miles.
Profile House, 11 "
Flume House, 16 "
Passengers change cars only at Springfield and ^Yhite Eiver
Junction.
Passengers from New York, at 8 o'clock, a. m., do not reach the
Mountains same day, and can stop over night at Hartford,
Springfield, Northampton, or any other point above Hartford, and
reach the Profile House about 7 p. m., and Crawford House at 9
p. M., next day.
Passengers leaving New York at 4 p. m., can stop at same
places over night, and reach the Mountains as soon as by leaving
at 8 A. M.
Passengers are allowed to stop over at prominent places, and
proceed in a subsequent train.
Fare from New York to the Profile House, $9.05.
" " " " " Crawford House, $10.05.
TABLE
OF HEIGHTS, BEARING, AND DISTANCES, OF THIRTY DIFFERENT
MOUNTAINS.
Height
above sea.
Distance from
Mt. Washington.
Bearing from
Mt. Washington.
Mt. Washington,
6,285 feet.
" Jeffei-son,
5,800 -
4 miles.
N. by E.
*' Adams,
5,700 "
3
C(
N. by W.
" Madison,
5,400 "
5
c<
N. N. E.
*' Clay,
5,400 «
1
(C
N. W.
Davis's Spur,
5,400 «'
2
<(
S. S. E.
Mt. Monroe,
5,400 "
1
c<
S. W.
" Lafayette or Great Haystack, 5,200 "
19
C(
w. s. w.
Twin Mountains,
5,000 to 4,700 "
14
it
w. s. w.
Mt. Carter,
4,900 "
6
"
E.
" Franklin,
4,900 "
2
<<
s.w.
" Pleasant,
4,800 "
3
<<
S.W.
" Carrigain,
4,800 "
14
((
s. s. w.
*' Moriah,
4,700 "
7
a
N. E.
Moosehillock,
....
31
"
s. w.
Notch Range,
4,500 "
8
((
s. w.
Willey Mountain,
4,400 "
8
i(
s. w.
Franconia Mts. south of Great ( 5,000 to
Haystack, i 4,500 feet.
20
(<
s. w.
Mt. Clinton,
4,200 "
4
C(
s. w.
" Jackson,
4,100 «
6
<(
s. w.
" Webster,
4,000 "
7
(C
s. w.
Saddle Mountain,
4,200 to 4,000 *«
22
cc
s. s. w.
Mt. Kinsman,
4,100 "
23
C(
w. s. w.
" Cannon,
4,000 "
20
ec
w. s. w.
" Whiteface,
4,100 "
24
<c
S. by W.
" Cliicorna,
3,600 "
22
<<
S. by E.
" Giant's Stairs,
3,500 "
8
((
s.
" Kearsarge,
3,400 "
15
<c
S.E.
" Crawford,
3,200 «
9
"
S.byW.
" Doublehead,
3,100 "
11
"
S.E.
ADVERTISEMENTS
REGULAR INLAND ROUTE
FOE. THE
W^HITE M:oTJ]srTA.iisrs,
(VIA NORWICH AND WORCESTER),
From foot Courtlandt-street, Pier No. 18, North River, New York, at the
lauding of the Erie and Philadelphia Railroads.
The New, Fast and Elegant Steamer Commonwealth, Capt. J. W. Wil-
liams, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. The Fast and Magnificent
Steamer Connecticut, Capt. Wm. Wilcox, Monday, Wednesday and Friday,
at 5 o'clock, p. M.
Passengers going to the White Mountains take Boats as above to Allyn's
Point, and then take new and splendidly-furnished sixteen-wheel cars to
Worcester, arriving in time to take early trains going north. This is the
direct route for Boston, Worcester, Providence, Lowell, Nashua, Concord,
and the White Mountains, and all way Stations on the Norwich and Wor-
cester, New London, Willimantic and Palmer, Hartford, Providence and
Fishkill, Boston and Worcester, Worcester and Nashua, Stony Brook and
Lowell, Fitchburg and Worcester, and all Railroads in Northern New
Hampshire and Vermont.
^^ The Boats on this route are unrivalled.
The superiority of this route consists in splendid Steamboats, unsurpassed
in the world — the Commonwealth being the ne plus ultra of Steamboat
architecture ; in spacious sixteen-wheel cars, the easiest ever invented ; in
the road track, the freest from dust of all the roads in New England ; and
in the beauty of the country, passing through the heart of the " Old Bay
State " and "Granite State."
Passengers returning from the Mountains, who are going to Philadel-
phia, Baltimore, Washington, &c., will land from the Boats of this route,
directly upon the Pier, from whence the Cars leave for the above places,
thus saving expense of hack fare.
Tickets can be obtained. Berths secured, or any information respecting
this route, can be obtained on application to the undersigned. Agent for
this Company. E. S. MARTIN,
Oflace, Pier No. 18, North River, foot of Courtlandt-street, N. Y.
ADVERTISEMENTS.
THIRD THOUSAND.
HISTORICAL RELICS
OF THE
WHITE MOUNTAINS.'
Also a concise "White Mountain Guide, and a Meteorological Table for
1853-4, giving the indications of the Thermometer on the top of Mount
Washington at sunrise, noon, and sunset, Tvith a synopsis of the same
for each month. By John H. Spaulding. 16mo, cloth. 106 pp.,
with accurate view of the tip-top of Mount Washington.
XOTICES OF THE PRESS.
From the Boston Evening Transcript :
" The -work is by Mr. J. H. Spaulding, of Lancaster, and is quite creditable
to him. It -will be perused -with much pleasure by the tourist, the native of the
Granite State, the antiquary, and the man of science. Its pages contain a
curious collection of legends and facts, Indian prophecies and traditions, his-
torical matters and descriptions of noted places, sketches of Abel and Ethan
Allen Crawford, notices of the Public Houses in the mountain region, and
accounts of the improvements now in progress in that locality. The volume is
quite attractive, and from its popular style must meet with a wide circulation."
From the Portland Argus :
" It will be found exceedingly useful to all White Mountain travellers, con-
taining, as it does, a great amount of information concerning that most interest-
ing portion of New England, all very well arranged and neatly printed. The
book is from the pen of John H. Spaulding, and from the press of IS^athaniel
Noyes, Boston.
From the Portland Advertiser :
"We have received a neat little volume bearing the above title, which we
think will prove of great interest to every '\\'^hite Mountain traveller. It
abounds with the curious facts and legends pertaining to the ' Switzerland of
America.' It is concisely written and well arranged ; the publisher has also
done his duty well. It is a very good thing, and we hope it will have a gen-
eral sale."
From the Watchman and Reflector, Boston :
" The thousands of persons who, for years past, during the summer months,
have visited the White Mountains, and the still larger number that will prob-
ably behold these interesting phenomena, will find this a very useful and attrac-
tive little book — just what they want. It contains much reliable local and
historical matter of deep interest, gathered with industry from various and
scattered sources, comprising also a concise guide, and a meteorological table
for 1853-4, giving, the indications of the thermometer on the top of Mount
Washington at sunrise, noon and sunset, with a synopsis of the same for every
summer month. The author and publisher have done a good service to the
travelling public, by issuing the book, which will doubtless have a wide cir-
culation."
NATHANIEL NOYES, Publisher,
IVo. 1 1 CornhUU Boston.
ADVERTISEMENTS.
TV^^SHINQTON HOUSE,
NORTH CONWAY, N. H.
The subscriber Trould inform his friends and the public that, having
enlarged and much improved the above house, he is now ready to receive
applications for boai'd for families and others wishing to spend some time
dui'ing the summer months in the most pleasant location in the vicinity of
the "White Mountains. Among the objects of interest here are Kearsarje
Mountain, Echo Lake, WTiite Horse and Harts Ledges, Crystal Falls,
Diana^s ^ a /ft s, names familiar to those who have been in' North Conway.
These are but a part of the attractions I coidd mention. Either of these
places offers suflBcient inducements to any one seeking pleasure, to visit this
village : being within a distance of two or three miles. Parties leave the
Washington House daily on excursions to one or more of them, and never
weary of visiting them, as they invariably discover new attractions at each
successive visit. The view of the White INIountaiu range, and the Saco
River winding through the valley, are of themselves truly enchanting. On
the summit of ]Mount Kearsarge, at an altitude of five thousand feet above
the level of the sea, is a house for the accommodation of visitors. Here may
be had a finer view than from any other, Mount Washington not excepted.
Here all are free to roam over the hills and fields, unrestrained by fear or
ceremony. The streams abound with trout, the woods with game, and, in
their season, various kinds of berries are to be had in abundance.
Many from the cities are purchasing house-lots to build summer resi-
dences ; some have purchased houses, and have made this village their
home during the warm weather for several years past. Those who have
visited this beautiful valley need not this description of its attractions, nor
an invitation to visit it a second time. To the stranger we would say,
come, and you wiU not regret having chosen North Conway as your place
of resort for the summer.
Our house is pleasantly located ; rooms comfoi'table, airy, and well venti-
lated. Our table wiU be supplied with the best the country affords. With a
desire to please, and moderate charge, we hope for a liberal share of patron-
age. » ^^ WM. C. EASTMAN.
JVorth Conway, JV. H, June, 1856. ^^^^
28 *
ADVERTISEMEKTS
SEISTTER HOUSE,
LAKE TTINNIPISEOGEE.
CENTRE HARBOR, N. H.
• BY GILMORE & HUNTRESS.
This popular Hotel (formerly kept by C. S. Coe) is situated at tlie ter-
minus of the steam conveyance to the "White Mountains. It stands in the
midst of the picturesque and romantic scenery, for which this Switzerland
of America is so celebrated. The house is placed on the borders of the Lake
Winnipiseogee, and before its broad piazza this splendid sheet of water
stretches away for miles, girded by mountains and studded with 365 islands
of all shapes, hues and sizes. Two steamers (Lady of the Lake and Dover)
ply regularly between this house, the Weirs Landmg, Wolfboro', and Alton
Bay, connecting at the "Weirs with Boston, Concord and Montreal R. R. ,
and at Alton Bay with the Cocheco R. R., both being direct communications
for Boston. The famous Red Hill, the ascent to which, on horseback, is
within the ability of many who are unable to bear the ascent to Mount
"Washington, is about two miles distant. From the summit of the moun-
tain is presented an enchanting view, called by the Indians " The Smile of
the Great Spirit."
The proprietors devote their personal attention to the comfort of theii-
guests ; and all that can make a hotel attractive and interesting to tourists
or parties of pleasure may here be found. The patronage of the public is
respectfully solicited.
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