1886
COPYRIGHT 190 BY CHARLES .SCRIBNER'S SONS
IN DARKEST AFRICA
OR THE
QUEST, RESCUE, AND RETREAT OF EMIN
GOVERNOR OP EQUATORIA
BY
HENRY M. STANLEY
WITH TWO STEEL ENGRAVINGS, AND ONE HUNDRED AND
FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS
TWO VOLUMES
VOL. I
; I will not cease to go forward until I come to the place where the two seas meet,
though I travel ninety years." KORAN, chap, xviii., v. 62.
NEW YOEK
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
TORONTO
PRESBYTERIAN NEWS COMPANY
1890
[All rights reserved]
j>r
Entered according to Act of Parliament of Canada,
in the year 1890, by
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON
Limited
London, England, at the Department
of Agriculture.
COPYRIGHT, 1890, BY
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
Printed and Hound
By JAMES MURRAY & Co.
TORONTO, ONT.
CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.
PBEFATOBY LETTER TO SIR WILLIAM MACKINNON, CHAIRMAN OP
THE EMIN PASHA RELIEF EXPEEITION 1
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY CHAITER.
The Khedive and the Soudan Arabi Pasha Hicks Pasha's defeat
The Mahdi Sir Evelyn Baring and Lord Granville on the
Soudan Valentine Baker Pasha General Gordon : his work
in the Upper Soudan Edward Schnitzler (or Emin Effendi
Hakim) and his Province General Gordon at Khartoum: and
account of the Eelief Expedition in 1884 under Lord Wolseley
Mr. A. M. Mackay, the missionary in Uganda Letters from
Emin Bey to Mr. Mackay, Mr. C. H. Allen, and Dr. R. W. Felkiu,
relating to his Province Mr. F. Holmwood's and Mr. A. M.
Mackay's views on the proposed relief of Emin Suggested
routes for the Emin Relief Expedition Sir Wm. Mackinnon
and Mr. J. F. Hutton The Relief Fund and preparatory details
of the Expedition Colonel Sir Francis De Winton Selection of
officers for the Expedition King Leopold and the Congo Route
Departure for Egypt .. 11
CHAPTER IT.
EGYPT AND ZANZIBAR.
Surgeon T. H. Parke Views of Sir Evelyn Baring, Nubar Pasha,
Professor Schweinfurth and Dr. Junker on the Emin Relief
Expedition Details relating to Emin Pasha and his Province-
General Grenfell and the ammunition Breakfast with Khedive
Tewfik: message to Emin Pasha Departure for Zanzibar
Description of Mombasa town Visit to the Sultan of Zanzibar
Letter to Emin Pasha sent by messenger through Uganda
Arrangements with Tippu-Tib Emin Pasha's Ivory Mr.
MacKenzie, Sir John Pender, and Sir James Anderson's assist-
ance to the Eelief Expedition 49
iv CONTENTS.
CHAPTER III.
BY SEA TO THE CONGO RIVER.
TAG R
The Sultan of Zanzibar Tippu-Tib and Stanley Falls On board
s.s. Madura " Shindy " between the Zanzibaris and Soudanese
Sketches of my various Officers Tippu-Tib and Cape Town
Arrival at the mouth of the Congo River Start up the
C >ngo Visit from two of the Executive Committee of the
Congo State Unpleasant thoughts 67
CHAPTER IV.
TO STANLEY POOL.
Details of the journey to Stanley Pool The Soudanese and the
Somalis Meeting with Mr. Herbert Ward Camp at Congo la
Lemba Kindly entertained by Mr. and Mrs. Richards Letters
from up river Letters to the Rev. Mr. Bentley and others for
assistance Arrival at Mwembi Necessity of enforcing disci-
pline March to Vorobo Incident at Lukungu Station The
Zanzibaris Incident between Jephson and Salim at the Inkissi
River A series of complaints The Rev. Mr. Bentley and the
steamer Peace We reach Makoko's village Leopoldville Diffi-
culties regarding the use of the Mission steamers Monsieur
Liebrichts sees Mr. Billington Visit to Mr. Swinburne at Kin-
shassa Orders to, and duties of, the officers 79
CHAPTER V.
FROM STANLEY POOL TO YAMBUYA.
Upper Congo scenery Accident to tl 3 Peace Steamers reach
Kimpoko Collecting fuel The good-for-noiliing Pewe The
Stanley in trouble Arrival at Bolobo The Relief Expedition
arranged in two columns Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson
chosen for command of Rear Column Arrival at Equator and
Bangala Stations The Basoko villages: Baruti deserts us
Arrival at Yambuya 99
CHAPTER VI.
AT YAMBUYA.
We land at Yambuya villages The Stanley leaves for Equator
Station Fears regarding Major Barttelot and the Henry Reed
Safe arrival Instructions to Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson
respecting the Rear Column Major Barttelot's doubts as to
Tippu-Tib's good faith A long conversation with Major Bart-
telot Memorandum for the officers of the Advance Column-
Illness of Lieutenant Stairs Last night at Yambuya : state-
ments as to our forces and accoutrements .. Ill
CONTENTS. V
CHAPTER VII.
TO PANGA FALLS.
An African road Our mode of travelling through the forests--
Farewell to Jameson and the Major 160 days in the forest
The Kapids of Yambuya Attacked by natives of Yankonde
Rest at the village of Bahunga Description of our march
The poisoned skewers Capture of six Babali Dr. Parke and
the bees A tempest in the forest Mr. Jephson puts the steel
boat together The village of Bukanda Refuse heaps of the
villages The Aruwimi river scenery Villages of the Bakuti
and the Bakoka The Rapids of Gwengwere The boy Bakula
Our " chop and coffee " The islands near Bandangi The
Baburu dwarfs The unknown course of the river The Somalis
Bartering at Mariri and Mupe The Aruwimi at Mupe The
Babe manners, customs, and dress Jephson's two adventures
Wasp Rapids The chief of the Bwamburi Our camp at
My-yui Canoe accident An abandoned village Arrival at
-Panga FallsDescription of the Falls 134
CHAPTER VIII.
FROM PANGA FALLS TO UGARROWWA'S.
Another accident at the Rapids The village of Utiri Avisibba
settlement- Enquiry into a murder case at Avisibba Sur-
prised by the natives Lieutenant Stairs wounded We hunt
up the enemy The poisoned arrows Indifference of the Zanzi-
baris Jephson's caravan missing Our wounded Perpetual
rain Deaths of Khalfan, Saadi, and others Arrival of caravan
The Mabengu Rapids Mustering the people The Nepoko
river Remarks by Binza Our food supply Reckless use of
ammunition Halfway to the Albert Lake We fall in with
some of Ugarrowwa's men Absconders We camp at Hippo
Broads and Avakubi Rapids The destroyed settlement
of Navabi Elephants at Memberri More desertions The
Arab leader, Ugarrowwa He gives us information Visit to the
Arab settlement First specimen of the tribe of dwarfs-
Arrangements with Ugarrowwa 171
CHAPTER IX.
UGARROWWA'S TO KILONGA-LONGA'S.
Ugarrowwa sends us three Zanzibari deserters We make an
example The 'Express' rifles Conversation with Rashid
The Lenda river Troublesome rapids Scarcity of food
Some of Kilonga-Longa's followers - Meeting of the rivers
Ihuru and Ituri State and numbers of the Expedition-
Illness of Captain Nelson We send couriers ahead to KiJonga-
Longa's The sick encampment Randy and the guinea fowl-
Scarcity of food Illness caused by the forest pears Fancifu
meims _More desertions Asmani drowned Our condition ir
brief Uledi's suggestion Umari's climb My donkey is shot
for food -We strike the track of the Manyuema and arrive at
their village J1J
vi CONTENTS.
CHAPTER X.
WITH THE MANYUEMA AT IPOTO.
PACK
The ivory hunters at Ipoto Their mode of proceeding The Man-
yuema headmen and their raids Remedy for preventing whole-
sale devastations Crusade preached by Cardinal Lavigerie
Our Zanzibar chiefs Anxiety respectiog Captain Nelson and
his followers Our men sell their weapons for food Theft of
rifles Their return demanded Uledi turns up with news of
the missing chiefs Contract drawn up with the Manyuema
headmen for the relief of Captain Nelson Jephson's report on
his journey Reports of Captain Nelson and Surgeon Parke
The process of blood brotherhood between myself and Ismaili
We leave Ipoto 236
CHAPTER XI.
THROUGH THE FOREST TO MAZAMBONl's PEAK.
In the country of the Balesse Their houses and clearings Natives
of Bukiri The first village of dwarfs Our rate of progress
increased The road from Mambucgu's Halts at East and West
Indekaru A little storm between " Three O'clock " and Khamis
We reach Ibwiri - Khamis and the " vile Zanzibaris " The
Ibwiri clearing Plentiful provisions The state of my men;
and what they had recently gone through Khamis and party
explore the neighbourhood And return with a flock of goats
Khamis captures Boryo, but is released Jephson returns
from the relief of Captain Nelson Departure of Khamis and
the Manyuema Memorandum of charges against Messrs.
Kilonga Longa & Co. of Ipoto Suicide of Simba Sali's reflec-
tions on the same Lieutenant Stairs reconnoitres Muster and
reorganisation at Ibwiri Improved condition of the men
Boryo's village Balesse customs East Indenduru We reach
the outskirts of the forest Mount Pisgah The village of
lyugu Heaven's light at last; the beautiful grass-land We
drop across ah ancient crone Indesura and its products
Juma's capture The Ituri river again We emerge upon a
rolling plain And forage in some villages The mode of hut
construction The district of the Babusesse Our Mbiri captives
Natives attack the camp The course of the Ituri The
natives of Abunguma Our fare since leaving Ibwiri Mazam-
boni's Peak -- The east Ituri A mass of plantations
Demonstration by the natives Our camp on the crest of Nzera
Kum " Be strong and of a good courage " Friendly intercourse
with the natives We are compelled to disperse them Peace
arranged Arms of the Bandussuraa 255
CHAPTER XII.
ARRIVAL AT LAKE ALBERT AND OUR RETURN TO IBWIRI.
We are further annoyed by the natives Their villages fired
Gavira's village We keep the natives at bay Plateau of
Unyoro in view Night attack by the natives The village of
CONTENTS. vii
pxorn
Katonza's Parley wuh the natives No news of the Pasha
Our supply of cartridges We consider our position Lieutenant
Stairs converses with the people of Kasenya Island The only
sensible course left us Again attacked by natives Scenery on
the lake's shore We climb a mountain- -A rich discovery of
grain The rich valley of Undussuma Our return journey to
Ibwiri The construction of Fort Bodo 310
CHAPTER XIII.
LIFE AT FORT BODO.
Our impending duties The stockade of Fort Bodo Instructions to
Lieutenant Stairs His departure for Kilonga-Longa's Pested
by rats, mosquitoes, &c. Nights disturbed by the lemur
Armies of red ants Snakes in tropical Africa Hoisting the
Egyptian flag Arrival of Surgeon Parke and Captain Nelson
from Ipoto Report of their stay with the Manyuema Lieu-
tenant Stairs arrives with the steel boat We determine to push
on to the Lake at once Volunteers to convey letters to Major
Barttelot Illness of myself and Captain Nelson Uledi captures
a Queen of the Pigmies Our fields of corn Life at Fort Bodo
We again set out for the Nyanza 350
CHAPTER XIV.
TO THE ALBERT NYANZA A SECOND TIME.
Difficulties with the steel boat African forest craft Splendid
capture of pigmies, and description of the same We cross the
Ituri Kiver Dr. Parke's delight on leaving the forest Camp
at Besse Zanzibar! wit At Nzera-Kum Hill once more Inter-
course with the natives " Malleju," or the "Bearded One,"
being first news of Emin Visit from chief Mazamboni and his
followers Jephson goes through the form of friendship with
Mazamboni The medicine men, Nestor and Murabo The
tribes of the Congo Visit from chief Gavira A Mhuma chief
The Bavira and Wahuma races The varying African features-
Friendship with Mpinga Gavira and the looking-glass Ex-
posed Uzanza We reach Kavalli The chief produces
" Malleju's " letter Emin's letter Jephson and Parke convey
the steel boat to the lake Copy of letter sent by me to Emin
through Jephson Friendly visits from natives
CHAPTER XV.
THE MEETING WITH EMIN PASHA.
Our camp at Bundi Mbiassi, the chief of Kavalli The Bal
granaries Chiefs Katonza and Komubi express contrition-
kites at Badzwa A note from Jephson Emm, Casati and
Jephson walk into our camp at old Kavalli -Descriptions of
Emin Pasha and Captain Casati The Pasha's Soudanese j
Zanzibaris The steamer Khedive Baker and the Blue
ti;i CONTENTS.
PAGE
Mountains Drs. Junker and Felkin's descriptions of Emin
Proximity of Kabba Rega Emin and the Equatorial Provinces
Dr. Junker's report of Emin I discuss with Emin our future
proceedings Captain Casati's plans Our camp and provisions
at Nsabe Kabba Rega's treatment of Captain Casati and
Mohammed Biri Mabruki gored by a buffalo Emin Pasha and
his soldiers My propositions to Emin and his answer Emm's
position Mahomet Achinet The Congo State The Foreign
Office despatches 393
CHAPTER XVI.
WITH THE PASHA continued.
Fortified stations in the Province Storms at Nsabe A nest of
young crocodiles Lake Ibrahim Zanzibari raid on Balegga
villages Dr. Parke goes in search of the two missing men The
Zanzibaris again A real tornado The Pasha's gifts to us
Introduced to Emin's officers Emin's cattle forays The
Khedive, departs for Mswa station Mabruki and his wages The
Pasha and the use of the sextant Departure of local chiefs
Arrival of the Khedive and Nynnza steamers with soldiers Made
arrangements to return in search of the rear-column My message
to the troops Our Badzwa road A farewell dance by the
Zanzibaris The Madi carriers' disappearance First sight of
Ruwenzori Former circumnavigators of the Albert Lake
Lofty twin-peak mountain near the East Ituri River Aid for
Emin against Kabba Rega Two letters from Emin Pasha
We are informed of an intended attack on us by chiefs Kadongo
and Musiri Fresh Madi carriers We attack Kadongo's camp
With assistance from Mazamboni and Gavira we march on
Musiri's camp which turns out to be deserted A phalanx dance
by Mazamboni' s warriors Music on the African Continent
Camp at Nzera-kum Hill Presents from various chiefs Chief
Musiri wishes for peace 418
CHAPTER XVII.
PERSONAL TO THE PASHA.
Age and early days of Emin Pasha Gordon and the pay of Emin
Pasha Last interview with Gordon Pasha in 1877 Emin's last
supply of ammunition and provisions Five years' isolation
Mackay's library in Uganda Umin's abilities and fitness for his
position His linguistic and other attainments Emin's industry
His neat journals Story related to me by Shukri Agha
referring to Emin's escape from Kirri to Mswa Emin confirms
the story Some natural history facts related to me by Emin
The Pasha and the Dinka tribe A lion story Emin and " bird
studies" 422
CONTENTS. i
CHAPTER XVIII.
START FOR THE RELIEF OF THE REAR COLUMN.
Escorted by various tribes to Mukangi Camp at Ukuba village *'
Arrival at Fort Bodo Our invalids in Ugarrowwa's care-
Lieut, Stairs' report on his visit to bring up the invalids to
Fort Bodo Night visits by the malicious dwarfs A general
muster of the garrison I decide to conduct the Relief force
in person Captain Nelson's ill-health My little fox-terrier
" Randy "Description of the fort The Zanzibaris Esti-
mated time to perform the journey to Yambuya and back
Lieut. Stairs' suggestion about the steamer Stanley Conversa-
tion with Lieut. Stairs in reference to Major Barttelot and the
Rear Column Letter of instructions to Lieut. Stairs 452
CHAPTER XIX.
ARRIVAL AT BANALYA : BARTTELOT DEAD!
The Relief Force The difficulties of marching We reach Ipoto
Kilonga Longa apologises for the behaviour of his Manyuema
The chief returns us some of our rifles Dr. Parke and fourteen
men return to Fort Bodo Ferrying across the Ituri River-
Indications of some of our old camps We unearth our buried
stores The Manyuema escort Bridging the Lenda River
The famished Madi Accidents and deaths among the Zanzi-
baris and Madi My little fox-terrier " Randy " The vast
clearing of Ujangwa Native women guides We reach
Ugarrowwa's abandoned station Welcome food at Amiri
Falls Navabi Falls Halt at Avamburi landing-place Death
of a Madi chief Our buried stores near Basopo unearthed
and stolen Juma and Nassib wander away from the Column
The evils of forest marching Conversation between my
tent-boy, Sali, and a Zanzibari Numerous bats at Mabengu
village We reach Avisibba, and find a young Zanzibari girl
Nejambi Rapids and Panga Falls The natives of Panga At
Mugwye's we disturb an intended feast We overtake Ugar-
rowwa at Wasp Rapids and find our couriers and some deserters
in his camp The head courier relates his tragic story Amusing
letter from Dr. Parke to Major Barttelot Progress of our canoe
flotilla down the river The Batundu natives Our progress
since leaving the Nyanza Thoughts about the Rear Column
Desolation along the banks of the river We reach Banalya
Meeting with Bonny The Major is dead Banalya Camp.. .. 468
CHAPTER XX.
THE SAD STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.
Tippu-Tib Major E. M. Barttelot Mr. J. S. Jameson Mr. Herbert
Ward Messrs. Troup and Bonny Major Barttelot's Report on
the doings of the Rear Column Conversation with Mr. Bonny
Major Barttelot's letter to Mr. Bonny Facts gleaned from the
written narrative of Mr. Wm. Bonny Mr. Ward detained at
Bangala Repeated visits of the Major to Stanley Falls Murder
CONTENTS.
of Major Barttelot Bormy's account of the murder The
assassin Sanga is punished Jameson dies of fever at Bangala
Station Meeting of the advance and rear columns Dreadful
state of the camp Tippu-Tib and Major Barttelot Mr. Jameson
Mr. Herbert Ward's report 498
APPENDIX.
Copy of Log of Bear Column 527
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
VOLUME I.
STEEL ENGRAVING.
PORTRAIT OF HENRY M. STANLEY Frontispiece.
(From a Photograph by Elliott & Fry, 1886.)
FULL- PA GE ILL USTRA TIONS.
Facing
page
GROUP MR. STANLEY AND HIS OFFICERS 1
THE STEEL BOAT "ADVANCE" 80
IN THE NIGHT AND RAIN IN THE FOREST 146
THE FIGHT WITH THE AVISIBBA CANNIBALS 174
THE RLVER COLUMN ASCENDING THE ARUWIMI RIVER WITH THE "AD-
VANCE" AND SIXTEEN CANOES . 184
WOODEN ARROWS OF THE AVISIBBA 180
"THE PASHA is COMING" . . . 196
THE RELIEF OF NELSON AND SURVIVORS AT STARVATION CAMP . . 250
GYMNASTICS IN A FOREST CLEARING 258
IYUGU ; A CALL TO ARMS 2 ^'
EMERGING FROM THE FOREST . . . - ... 292
FIRST EXPERIENCES WITH MAZAMBONI'S PEOPLE. VIEW FROM NZERA
KUM HILL . . . . . -i " 306
THE SOUTH END OF THE ALBERT NYANZA, DEC. 13, 1887 . . .324
xi
x ii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Pacing
page
SKETCH-MAP: " RETURN TO UGARROWA'S." BY LIEUTENANT STAIRS . 365
EMIX AND CASATI ARRIVE AT LAKE SHORE CAMP . . . *, . . 396
A PHALANX DANCE BY MAZAMBONI'S WARRIORS 438
MEETING WITH THE REAR COLUMN AT BANALYA , 494
OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS.
PORTRAIT OF EMIN PASHA 18
CAPTAIN .NELSON ... ^ .... 39
" LIEUTENANT STAIRS 40
WILLIAM BONNY 41
A. J. MOUNTENEY JfiPHSON 42
SURGEON PARKE, A.M.D. 50
" NUBAR PASHA 51
" THE KHEDIVE TEWFIK 55
TIPPU-TIB . . .68
MAXIM AUTOMATIC GUN 83
LAUNCHING THE STEAMER " FLORIDA " 90
STANLEY POOL 100
BARUTI FINDS HIS BROTHER 109
A TYPICAL VILLAGE ON THE LOWER ARUWIMI 112
LANDING AT YAMBUYA 113
DIAGRAM OF FOREST CAMPS 130
MARCHING THROUGH THE FOREST 135
THE KIRANGOZI, OR FOREMOST MAN 137
HEAD-DRESS CROWN OF BRISTLES . . . . . . . 160
PADDLE OF THE UPPER ARUWIMI OR ITURI 160
WASPS' NESTS 164
FORT ISLAND, NEAR PANGA FALLS . 168
PANGA FALLS . 169
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. x jij
Facing
page
VIEW OF UTIRI VILLAGE 172
LEAF-BLADED PADDLE OF AVISIBBA . 174
A HEAD-DRESS OF AVISIBBA WARRIORS 178
CORONETED AVISIBBA WARRIOR HEAD-DRESS 179
CASCADES OF THE NEPOKO 193
VIEW OF BAFAIDO CATARACT . 202
ATTACKING AN ELEPHANT IN THE ITURI RIVER ..... 203
RANDY SEIZES THE GUINEA FOWL #24
KILONGA LONGA'S STATION 234
SHIELDS OF THE BALESSE 256
VIEW OF MOUNT PISGAH FROM THE EASTWARD 281
VILLAGES OF THE BAKWURU ON A SPUR OF PISGAH .... 283
A VILLAGE AT THE BASE OF PISGAH . 284
CHIEF OF THE IYUGU 285
PIPES OF FOREST TRIBES 290
SHIELDS OF THE BABUSESSE 299
SUSPENSION BRIDGE ACROSS THE EAST ITURI ...... 304
SHIELD OF THE EDGE OF THE PLAINS . . . . . . .317
VIEW OF THE SOUTH END OF ALBERT NYANZA 318
CORN GRANARY OF THE BABUSESSE ....... 342
A VILLAGE OF THE BAVIRI : EUROPEANS TAILORING .... 345
GREAT ROCK NEAR INDETONGA . . . . . . . 348
EXTERIOR VIEW OF FORT BODO 349
INTERIOR OF FORT BODO ......... 351
PLAN OF FORT BODO AND VICINITY, BY LIEUTENANT STAIRS. . . 354
THE QUEEN OF THE DWARFS 368
WITHIN FORT BODO 371
ONE OF MAZAMBONI'S WARRIORS 384
KAVALLI, CHIEF OF THE BABIASSI . 389
MILK VESSEL OF THE WAHUMA 392
THE STEAMERS "KHEDIVE" AND "NYANZA" ON LAKE ALBERT . . 426
VIEW OF BANALYA CURVE 493
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Facing
page
PORTRAIT OF MAJOR BARTTELOT ........ 499
" MR. JAMESON 501
MAP.
MAP OF THE GREAT FOREST REGION, SHOWING THE ROUTE OF THE
EMIN PASHA RELIEF EXPEDITION FROM THE RIVER CONGO TO
V:CTORIA NYANZA. BY HENRY M. STANLEY.
In Pocket.
li
J
IN DAKKEST AFKICA.
PEEFATOEY LETTER,
MY DEAR SIR WILLIAM,
I have great pleasure in dedicating this book to you.
It professes to be the Official Report to yourself and the
Emin Eelief Committee of what we have experienced
and endured during our mission of Eelief, which cir-
cumstances altered into that of Rescue. You may
accept it as a truthful record of the journey ings of the
Expedition which you and the Emin Eelief Committee
entrusted to my guidance.
I regret that I was not able to accomplish all that I
burned to do when I set out from England in January,
1887, but the total collapse of the Government of
Equatoria thrust upon us the duty of conveying in
hammocks so many aged and sick people, and protecting
so many helpless and feeble folk, that we became trans-
formed from a small fighting column of tried men into
a mere Hospital Corps to whom active adventure was
denied. The Governor was half blind and possessed
much luggage, Casati was weakly and had to be carried,
and 90 per cent, of their followers were, soon after
starting, scarcely able to travel from age, disease, weak-
ness or infancy. Without sacrificing our sacred charge,
to assist which was the object of the Expedition, we
could neither deviate to the right or to the left, from
the most direct road to the sea.
VOL. I. B
2 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
You who throughout your long and varied life have
steadfastly believed in the Christian's God, and before
men have professed your devout thankfulness for many
mercies vouchsafed to you, will better understand than
many others the feelings which animate me when I find
myself back again in civilization, uninjured in life or
health, after passing through so many stormy and dis-
tressful periods. Constrained at the darkest hour to
humbb confess that without God's help I was helpless,
I vowed a vow in the forest solitudes that I would
confess His aid before men. A silence as of death was
round about me ; it was midnight ; I was weakened by
illness, prostrated with fatigue and worn with anxiety
for my white and black companions, whose fate was a
mystery. In this physical and mental distress I be-
sought God to give me back my people. Nine hours
later we were exulting with a rapturous joy. In full
view of all was the crimson flag with the crescent, and
beneath its waving folds was the long-lost rear column.
Again, we had emerged into the open country out of
the forest, after such experiences as in the collective
annals of African travels there is no parallel. We were
approaching the region wherein our ideal Governor was
reported to be beleaguered. All that we heard from
such natives as our scouts caught prepared us for des-
perate encounters with multitudes, of whose numbers or
qualities none could inform us intelligently, and when
the population of Undusuma swarmed in myriads on the
hills, and the valleys seemed alive with warriors, it really
seemed to us in our dense ignorance of their character
and power, that these were of those who hemmed in
the Pasha to the west. If he with his 4000 soldiers
appealed for help, what could we effect with 173?
The night before I had been reading the exhortation of
Moses to Joshua, and whether it was the effect of those
brave words, or whether it was a voice, I know not, but
it appeared to me as though I heard : "Be strong, and
of a good courage, fear not, nor be afraid of them, for
the Lord thy God He it is that doth go with thee, He
will not fail thee nor forsake thee." When on the next
PREFATORY LETTER. 3
day Mazamboni commanded his people to attack and
exterminate us, there was not a coward in our camp,
whereas the evening before we exclaimed in bitterness
on seeing four of our men fly before one native, " And
these are the wretches with whom we must reach the
Pasha!"
And yet again. Between the confluence of the Ihuru
and the Dui rivers in December 1888, 150 of the
best and strongest of our men had been despatched to
forage for food. They had been absent for many days
more than they ought to have been, and in the mean-
time 130 men besides boys and women were starving.
They were supported each day with a cup of warm thin
broth, made of butter, milk and water, to keep death
away as long as possible. When the provisions were
so reduced that there were only sufficient for thirteen
men for ten days, even of the thin broth with four tiny
biscuits each per day, it became necessary for me to
hunt up the missing men. They might, being without
a leader, have been reckless, and been besieged by an
overwhelming force of vicious dwarfs. My following
consisted of sixty-six men, a few women and children,
who, more active than the others, had assisted the tiiin
fluid with the berries of the phrynium and tne
amomum, and such fungi as could be discovered in
damp places, and therefore were possessed of some
little strength, though the poor fellows were terribly
emaciated. Fifty -one men, besides boys and women,
were so prostrate with debility and disease that they
would be hopelessly gone if within a few hours food
did not arrive. My white comrade and thirteen men
were assured of sufficient for ten days to protract the
struggle against a painful death. We who were bound
for the search possessed nothing. We could feed on
berries until we could arrive at a plantation. As we
travelled that afternoon we passed several dead bodies
in various stages of decay, and the sight of doomed,
dying and dead produced on my nerves such a feeling
of weakness that I was well-nigh overcome. Every
soul in that camp was paralysed with sadness and
4 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
suffering. Despair had made them all dumb. Not
a sound was heard to disturb the deathly brooding.
It was a mercy to me that I heard no murmur of
reproach, no sign of rebuke. I felt the horror of the
silence of the forest and the night intensely. Sleep
was impossible. My thoughts dwelt on these recurring
disobediences which caused so much misery and
anxiety. " Stiff-necked, rebellious, incorrigible human,
nature, ever showing its animalism and brutishness, let
the wretches be for ever accursed ! Their utter thought-
less and oblivious natures and continual breach of
promises kill more men, and cause more anxiety, than
the poison of the darts or barbs and points of the
arrows. If I meet them I will But before the
resolve was uttered flashed to my memory the dead
men on the road, the doomed in the camp, and the
starving with me, and the thought that those 150
men were lost in the remorseless woods beyond re-
covery, or surrounded by savages without hope of
escape, then do you wonder that the natural hardness
of the heart was softened, and that I again consigned
my case to Him who could alone assist us. The next
morning within half-an-hour of the start we met the
foragers, safe, sound, robust, loaded, bearing four tons
of plain tains. You can imagine what cries of joy these
wild children of nature uttered, you can imagine how
they flung themselves upon the fruit, and kindled the
fires to roast and boil and bake, and how, after they
were all filled, we strode back to the camp to rejoice
those unfortunates with Mr. Bonny.
As I mentally review the many grim episodes and
reflect on the marvellously narrow escapes from utter
destruction to which we have been subjected during
our various journeys to and fro through that immense
and gloomy extent of 'primeval woods, I feel utterly
unable to attribute our salvation to any other cause
than to a gracious Providence who for some purpose of
His own preserved us. All the armies and armaments
of Europe could not have lent us any aid in the dire
extremity in which we found ourselves in that camp
PREFATORY LETTER. 5
between the Dui and Ihuru ; an army of explorers could
not have traced our course to the scene of the last
struggle had we fallen, for deep, deep as utter oblivion
had we been surely buried under the humus of the
trackless wilds.
It is in this humble and grateful spirit that I com-
mence this record of the progress of the Expedition
from its inception by you to the date when at our feet
the Indian Ocean burst into view, pure and blue as
Heaven when we might justly exclaim " It is ended ! "
What the public ought to know, that have I written ;
but there are many things that the snarling, cynical,
unbelieving, vulgar ought not to know. I write to
you and to your friends, and for those who desire more
light on Darkest Africa, and for those who can feel an
interest in what concerns humanity.
My creed has been, is, and will remain so, I hope, to
act for the best, think the right thought, and speak the
right word, as well as a good motive will permit.
When a mission is entrusted to me and my conscience
approves it as noble and right, and I give my promise
to exert my best powers to fulfil this according to the
letter and spirit, I carry with me a Law, that I am
compelled to obey. If any associated with me prove
to . me by their manner and action that this Law is
equally incumbent on them, then I recognize my
brothers. Therefore it is with unqualified delight that
I acknowledge the priceless services of my friends
Stairs, Jephson, Nelson and Parke, four men whose
devotion to their several duties were as perfect as
human nature is capable of. As a man's epitaph can
only be justly written when he lies in his sepulchre, so
I rarely attempted to tell them during the journey, how
much I valued the ready and prompt obedience of
Stairs, that earnestness for work that distinguished
Jephson, the brave soldierly qualities of Nelson, and the
gentle, tender devotion paid by our Doctor to his ailing
patients ; but now that the long wanderings are over, and
they have bided and laboured ungrudgingly throughout
the long period, I feel that my words are poor indeed
6 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
when I need them to express in full my lasting obli-
gations to each of them.
Concerning those who have fallen, or who were
turned back by illness or accident, I will admit, with
pleasure, that while in my company every one seemed
most capable of fulfilling the highest expectations
formed of them. I never had a doubt of any one
of them until Mr. Bonny poured into my ears the
dismal story of the rear column. While I possess
positive proofs that both the Major and Mr. Jameson
were inspired by loyalty, and burning with desire
throughout those long months at Yambuya, I have
endeavoured to ascertain why they did not proceed as
instructed by letter, or why Messrs. Ward, Troup and
Bonny did not suggest that to move little by little was
preferable to rotting at Yambuya, which they were
clearly in danger of doing, like the 100 dead followers.
To this simple question there is no answer. The eight
visits to Stanley Falls and Kasongo amount in the
aggregate to 1,200 miles ; their journals, log books, letters
teem with proofs that every element of success was
in and with them. I cannot understand why the five
officers, having means for moving, confessedly burning
with the desire to move, and animated with the highest
feelings, did not move on along our tract as directed ; or,
why, believing I was alive, the officers sent my personal
baggage down river and reduced their chief to a state
of destitution ; or, why they should send European
tinned provisions and two dozen bottles of Madeira
down river, when there were thirty-three men sick and
hungry in camp ; or, why Mr. Bonny should allow
his own rations to be sent down while he was present ;
or, why Mr. Ward should be sent down river with
a despatch, and an order be sent after him to
prevent his return to the Expedition. These are a
few of the problems which puzzle me, and to which
I have been unable to obtain satisfactory solutions.
Had any other person informed me that such things
had taken place I should have doubted them, but
I take my information solely from Major Barttelot's
PREFATORY LETTER. 7
official despatch (See Appendix). The telegram which
Mr. Ward conveyed to the sea requests instructions
from the London Committee, but the gentlemen in
London reply, " We refer you to Mr. Stanley's letter of
instructions." It becomes clear to every one that there
is a mystery here for which I cannot conceive a rational
solution, and therefore each reader of this narrative
must think his own thoughts but construe the whole
charitably.
After the discovery of Mr. Bonny at Banalya, I had
frequent occasions to remark to him that his goodwill
and devotion were equal to that shown by the others,
and as for bravery, I think he has as much as the
bravest. With his performance of any appointed work
I never had cause for dissatisfaction, and as he so
admirably conducted himself with such perfect and
respectful obedience while with us from Banalya to the
Indian Sea, the more the mystery of Yambuya life is
deepened, for with 2,000 such soldiers as Bonny under
a competent leader, the entire Soudan could be sub-
jugated, pacified and governed.
It must thoroughly be understood, however, while
reflecting upon the misfortunes of the rear-column, that
it is my firm belief that had it been the lot of Barttelot
and Jameson to have been in the place of, say Stairs and
Jephson, and to have accompanied us in the advance,
they would equally have distinguished themselves ; for
such a group of young gentlemen as Barttelot, Jameson,
Stairs, Nelson, Jephson, and Parke, at all times, night or
day, so eager for and rather loving work, is rare. If I
were to try and form another African State, such tire-
less, brave natures would be simply invaluable. The
misfortunes of the rear-column were due to the resolu-
tions of August 17th to stay and wait for me, and to
the meeting with the Arabs the next day.
What is herein related about Emin Pasha need not, I
hope, be taken as derogating in the slightest from the high
conception of our ideal. If the reality differs somewhat
from it no fault can be attributed to him. While his
people were faithful he was equal to the ideal; when
8 IN DAEKEST AFEICA.
his soldiers revolted his usefulness as a Governor
ceased, just as the cabinet-maker with tools may turn
out finished wood-work, but without them can do
nothing If the Pasha was not of such gigantic stature
as we supposed him to be, he certainly cannot be held
responsible for that, any more than he can be held
accountable for his unmilitary appearance. If the
Pasha was able to maintain his province for five years,
he cannot in justice be held answerable for the wave
of insanity and the epidemic of turbulence which con-
verted his hitherto loyal soldiers into rebels. You will
find two special periods in this narrative wherein the
Pasha is described with strictest impartiality to each,
but his misfortunes never cause us to lose our respect
for him, though we may not agree with that excess of
sentiment which distinguished him, for objects so un-
worthy as sworn rebels. As an administrator he dis-
played the finest qualities ; he was just, tender, loyal
and merciful, and affectionate to the natives who placed
themselves under his protection, and no higher and
better proof of the esteem with which he was regarded
by his soldiery can be desired than that he owed his
life to the reputation for justice and mildness which he
had won. In short, every hour saved from sleep was
devoted before his final deposition to some useful
purpose conducive to increase of knowledge, improve-
ment of humanity, and gain to civilization. You must
remember all these things, and by no means lose sight
of them, even while you read our impressions of him.
I am compelled to believe that Mr. Mounteney
Jephson wrote the kindliest report of the events that
transpired during the arrest and imprisonment of the
Pasha and himself, out of pure affection, sympathy, and
fellow-feeling for his friend. Indeed the kindness and
sympathy he entertains for the Pasha are so evident
that I playfully accuse him of being either a Mahdist,
Arabist, or Eminist, as one would naturally feel
indignant at the prospect of leading a slave's
life at Khartoum. The letters of Mr. Jephson,
after being shown, were endorsed, as will be seen by
PREFATORY LETTER. 9
Emin Pasha. Later observations proved the truth of
those made by Mr. Jephson when he said, " Sentiment
is the Pasha's worst enemy ; nothing keeps Emin here
but Emin himself." What I most admire in him is
the evident struggle between his duty to me, as my
agent, and the friendship he entertains for the Pasha.
While we may naturally regret that Emin Pasha did
not possess that influence over his troops which would
have commanded their perfect obedience, confidence and
trust, and made them pliable to the laws and customs
of civilization, and compelled them to respect natives as
fellow-subjects, to be guardians of peace and protectors
of property, without which there can be no civilization,
many will think that as the Governor was unable to do
this, that it is as well that events took the turn they
did. The natives of Africa cannot be taught that there
are blessings in civilization if they are permitted to be
oppressed and to be treated as unworthy of the treat-
ment due to human beings, to be despoiled and en-
slaved at will by a licentious soldiery. The habit of
regarding the aborigines as nothing better than pagan
abid or slaves, dates from Ibrahim Pasha, and must be
utterly suppressed before any semblance of civilization
can be seen outside the military settlements. When
every grain of corn, and every fowl, goat, sheep and
cow which is necessary for the troops is paid for in
sterling money or its equivalent in necessary goods,
then civilization will become irresistible in its influence,
and the Gospel even may be introduced ; but without
impartial justice both are impossible, certainly never
when preceded and accompanied by spoliation, which I
fear was too general a custom in the Soudan.
Those who have some regard for righteous justice
may find some comfort in the reflection that until
civilization in its true and real form be introduced into
Equatoria, the aborigines shall now have some peace
and rest, and that whatever aspects its semblance bare,
excepting a few orange and lime trees, can be replaced
within a month, under higher, better, and more enduring
auspices.
10 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
If during this Expedition I have not sufficiently
manifested the reality of my friendship and devotion
to you, and to my friends of the Emin Relief
Committee, pray attribute it to want of opportunities
and force of circumstances and not to lukewarmness and
insincerity ; but if, on the other hand, you and my
friends have been satisfied that so far as lay in my
power I have faithfully and loyally accomplished the
missions you entrusted to me in the same spirit and
to the same purpose that you yourself would have
performed them had it been physically and morally
possible for you to have been with us, then indeed am
I satisfied, and the highest praise would not be equal
in my opinion to the simple acknowledgment of it, such
as " Well done."
My dear Sir William, to love a noble, generous and
loyal heart like your own, is natural. Accept the pro-
fession of mine, which has been pledged long ago to you
wholly and entirely.
HENRY M. STANLEY.
To SIR WILLIAM MACKINNON, Bart.,
of Balinakill and Loup,
in the County of Argyleshire,
The Chairman of the Emin Pasha Relief Committee.
&c. &c. &c.
CHAPTER 1.
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
The Khedive and the Soudan Arabi Pasha Hicks Pasha's defeat The
Mahdi Sir Evelyn Baring and Lord Granville on the Soudan
Valentine Baker Pasha General Gordon: his work in the Upper
Soudan Edward Schnitzler (or Emin Effendi Hakim) and his pro-
vince General Gordon at Khartoum: and account of the Relief
Expedition in 1884, under Lord Wolseley Mr. A. M. Mackay, the
missionary in Uganda Letters from Emin Bey to Mr. Mackay,
Mr. C. H. Allen, and Dr. R. W. Felkin, relating to his Province-
Mr. F. Holmwood's and Mr. A. M. Mackay's views on the proposed
relief of Emin Suggested routes for the Emin Relief Expedition-
Sir Wm. Mackinnon and Mr. J. F. Button The Relief Fund and
Preparatory details of the Expedition Colonel Sir Francis De Winton
Selection of officers for the Expedition King Leopold and the Congo
Route Departure for Egypt.
ONLY a Carlyle in his maturest period, as when he drew
in lurid colours the agonies of the terrible French
Revolution, can do justice to the long catalogue of
disasters which has followed the connection of England
with Egypt. It is a theme so dreadful throughout, that
Englishmen shrink from touching it. Those who have
written upon any matters relating to these horrors
confine themselves to bare historical record. No one
can read through these without shuddering at the
dangers England and Englishmen have incurred during
this pitiful period of mismanagement. After the Egyptian
campaign there is only one bright gleam of sunshine
throughout months of oppressive darkness, and that
shone over the immortals of Abu-Klea and Gubat,
when that small body of heroic Englishmen struggled
shoulder to shoulder on the sands of the fatal desert, and
won a glory equal to that which the Light Brigade were
urged to gain at Balaclava. Those were fights indeed,
12 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
and atone in a great measure for a series of blunders,
that a century of history would fail to parallel If
only a portion of that earnestness of purpose exhibited
at Abu-Klea had been manifested by those responsible
for ordering events, the Mahdi would soon have become
only a picturesque figure to adorn a page or to point a
metaphor, and not the terrible portent of these latter
days, whose presence blasted every vestige of civilization
in the Soudan to ashes.
In order that I may make a fitting but brief intro-
duction to the subject matter of this book, I must
necessarily glance at the events which led to the cry oi
the last surviving Lieutenant of Gordon for help in his
close beleaguerment near the Equator.
To the daring project of Ismail the Khedive do we
owe the original cause of all that has befallen Egypt
and the Soudan. With 5,000,000 of subjects, and a
rapidly depleting treasury, he undertook the expansion
of the Egyptian Khediviate into an enormous Egyptian
Empire, the entire area embracing a superficial extent of
nearly 1,000,000 square miles that is, from the Pharos
of Alexandria to the south end of Lake Albert, from
Massowah to the western boundary of Darfur.
Adventurers from Europe and from America resorted
to his capital to suggest the maddest schemes, and
volunteered themselves leaders of the wildest enter-
prises. The staid period when Egyptian sovereignty
ceased at Gondokoro, and the Nile was the natural drain
of such traffic as found its way by the gentle pressure
of slow development, was ended when Captains Speke
and Grant, and Sir Samuel Baker brought their rapturous
reports of magnificent lakes, and regions unmatched for
fertility and productiveness. The termination of the
American Civil War threw numbers of military officers
out of employment, and many thronged to Egypt to
lend their genius to the modern Pharaoh, and to realize
his splendid dreams of empire. Englishmen, Germans,
and Italians, appeared also to share in the honours that
were showered upon the bold and the brave.
While reading carefully and dispassionately the
ISMAIL THE KHEDIVE AND THE SOUDAN. 13
annals of this period, admiring the breadth of the
Khedive's views, the enthusiasm which possesses him,
the princely liberality of his rewards, the military
exploits, the sudden extensions of his power, and the
steady expansions of his sovereignty to the south, west,
and east, I am struck by the fact that his success as a
conqueror in Africa may well be compared to the
successes of Alexander in Asia, the only difference being
that Alexander led his armies in person, while Ismail
the Khedive preferred the luxuries of his palaces in
Cairo, and to commit his wars to the charge of his
Pashas and Beys.
To the Khedive the career of conquest on which he
has launched appears noble ; the European Press applaud
him ; so many things of grand importance to civilization
transpire that they chant pseans of praise in his honour ;
the two seas are brought together, and the mercantile
navies ride in stately columns along the maritime canal ;
railways are pushed towards the south, and it is
prophesied that a line will reach as far as Berber. But
throughout all this brilliant period the people of this
new empire do not seem to have been worthy of a
thought, except as subjects of taxation and as instru-
ments of supplying the Treasury ; taxes are heavier than
ever ; the Pashas are more mercenary ; the laws are more
exacting, the ivory trade is monopolised, and finally,
to add to the discontent already growing, the slave
trade is prohibited throughout all the territory where
Egyptian authority is constituted. Within five years
Sir Samuel Baker has conquered the Equatorial Province,
Munzinger has mastered Senaar, Darfur has been
annexed, and Bahr-el-Ghazal has been subjugated after a
most frightful waste of life. The audacity manifested
in all these projects of empire is perfectly marvellous
almost as wonderful as the total absence of common
sense. Along a line of territory 800 miles in length
there are only three military stations in a country that,
can only rely upon camels as means of communication
except when the Nile is high.
In 1879, Ismail the Khedive having drawn too freely
14 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
upon the banks of Europe, and increased the debt of
Egypt to 128,000,000, and unable to agree to the
restraints imposed by the Powers, the money of whose
subjects he had so liberally squandered, was deposed,
and the present Khedive, Tewfik, his son, was elevated to
his place, under the tutelage of the Powers. But
shortly after, a military revolt occurred, and at Kassassin,
Tel-el-Kebir, Cairo, and Kafr Dowar, it was crushed by
an English Army, 13,000 strong, under Lord Wolseley.
During the brief sovereignty of Arabi Pasha, who
headed the military revolt, much mischief was caused
by the withdrawal of the available troops from the
Soudan. While the English General was defeating
the rebel soldiers at Tel-el-Kebir, the Mahdi Mohamet -
Achmet was proceeding to the investment of El Obeid.
On the 23rd of August he was attacked at Duem
with a loss of 4500. On the 14th he was repulsed by
the garrison of Obeid, with a loss, it is said, of 10,000
men. These immense losses of life, which have been
continuous from the llth of August, 1881, when the
Mahdi first essayed the task of teaching the populations
of the Soudan the weakness of Egyptian power, were
from the tribes who were indifferent to the religion
D
professed by the Mahdi, but who had been robbed
by the Egyptian officials, taxed beyond endurance by
the Government, and who had been prevented from
obtaining means by the sale of slaves to pay the taxes,
and also from the hundreds of slave-trading caravans,
whose occupation was taken from them by their energetic
suppression by Gordon, and his Lieutenant, Gessi Pasha.
From the llth of August, 1881, to the 4th of March,
1883, when Hicks Pasha, a retired Indian officer, landed at
Khartoum as Chief of the Staff of the Soudan army, the
disasters to the Government troops had been almost one
unbroken series ; and, in the meanwhile, the factious
and mutinous army of Egypt had revolted, been sup-
pressed and disbanded, and another army had been
reconstituted under Sir Evelyn Wood, which was not to
exceed 6000 men. Yet aware of the tremendous power
of the Mahdi, and the combined fanaticism and hate,
THE MAUD I, MOHAMET-ACHMET. 15
amounting to frenzy, which possessed his legions, and of
the instability, the indiscipline, and cowardice of his
troops while pleading to the Egyptian Government for
a reinforcement of 5000 men, or for four battalions of
General Wood's new army Hicks Pasha resolves upon
the conquest of Kordofan, and marches to meet the
victorious Prophet, while he and his hordes are flushed
with the victory lately gained over Obeid and Bara.
His staff, and the very civilians accompanying him, pre-
dict disaster ; yet Hicks starts forth on his last journey
with a body of 12,000 men, 10 mountain guns, 6 Nor-
denfelts, 5500 camels, and 500 horses. They know that
the elements of weakness are in the force ; that many of
the soldiers are peasants taken from the fields in Egypt,
chained in gangs ; that others are Mahdists ; that there
is dissension between the officers, and that everything is
out of joint. But they march towards Obeid, meet the
Mahdi's legions, and are annihilated.
England at this time directs the affairs of Egypt with
the consent of the young Khedive, whom she has been
instrumental in placing upon the almost royal throne of
Egypt, and whom she is interested in protecting. Her
soldiers are in Egypt ; the new Egyptian army is under
an English General ; her military police is under the
command of an English ex-Colonel of cavalry ; her
Diplomatic Agent directs the foreign policy ; almost all
the principal offices of the State are in the hands of
Englishmen.
The Soudan has been the scene of the most fearful
sanguinary encounters between the ill-directed troops of
the Egyptian Government and the victorious tribes
gathered under the sacred banner of the Mahdi ; and
unless firm resistance is offered soon to the advance of
the Prophet, it becomes clear to many in England that
this vast region and fertile basin of the Upper Nile will
be lost to Egypt, unless troops and money be furnished
to meet the emergency. To the view of good sense it
is clear that, as England has undertaken to direct the
government and manage the affairs of Egypt, she cannot
avoid declaring her policy as regards the Soudan. To a
16 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
question addressed to the English Prime Minister in
Parliament, as to whether the Soudan was regarded as
forming a part of Egypt, and if so, whether the British
Government would take steps to restore order there,
Mr. Gladstone replied, that the Soudan had not been
included in the sphere of English operations, and that
the Government was not disposed to include it within
the sphere of English responsibility. As a declaration
of policy no fault can be found with it ; it is Mr. Glad-
stone's policy, and there is nothing to be said against it
as such ; it is his principle, the principle of his associates
in the Government, and of his party, and as a principle
it deserves respect.
The Political Agent in Egypt, Sir Evelyn Baring,
while the fate of Hicks Pasha and his army was still
unknown, but suspected, sends repeated signals of warn-
ing to the English Government, and suggests remedies
and means of averting a final catastrophe. " If Hicks
Pasha is defeated, Khartoum is in danger ; by the fall of
Khartoum, Egypt will be menaced."
Lord Granville replies at various times in the months
of November and December, 1883, that the Government
advises the abandonment of the Soudan within certain
limits ; that the Egyptian Government must take the
sole responsibility of operations beyond Egypt Proper ;
that the Government has no intention of employing
British or Indian troops in the Soudan ; that ineffectual
efforts on the part of the Egyptian Government to secure
the Soudan would only increase the danger.
Sir Evelyn Baring notified Lord Granville that no
persuasion or argument availed to induce the Egyptian
Minister to accept the policy of abandonment. Cherif
Pasha, the Prime Minister, also informed Lord Granville
that, according to Valentine Baker Pasha, the means at
the disposal were utterly inadequate for coping with the
insurrection in the Soudan.
Then Lord Granville replied, through Sir Evelyn
Baring, that it was indispensable that, so long as Eng-
lish soldiers provisionally occupied Egypt, the advice
of Her Majesty's Ministers should be followed, and that
BAKER PASHA'S DEFEAT AT TOKAR. 17
he insisted on its adoption. The Egyptian Ministers
were changed, and Nubar Pasha became Prime Minister
on the 10th January, 1884.
On the 17th December, Valentine Baker departed from
Egypt for Suakim, to commence military operations
for the maintenance of communication between Suakim
and Berber, and the pacification of the tribes in that
region. While it was absolutely certain in England that
Baker's force would suffer a crushing defeat, and sus-
pected in Egypt, the General does not seem to be aware
of any danger, or if there be, he courts it. The Khedive,
fearful that to his troops an engagement will be most
disastrous, writes privately to Baker Pasha : "I rely on
your prudence and ability not to engage the enemy
except under the most favourable conditions." Baker
possessed ability and courage in abundance ; but the
event proved that prudence and judgment were as absent
in his case as in that of the unfortunate Hicks. His
force consisted of 3746 men. On the 6th of February he
left Trinkitat on the sea shore, towards Tokar. After a
march of six miles the van of the rebels was encountered,
and shortly after the armies were engaged. It is said
" that the rebels displayed the utmost contempt for the
Egyptians ; that they seized them by the neck and cut
their throats ; and that the Government troops, paralysed
by fear, turned their backs, submitting to be killed rather
than attempt to defend their lives ; that hundreds threw
away their rifles, knelt down, raised their clasped hands,
and prayed for mercy."
The total number killed was 2373 out of 3746. Mr.
Royle, the excellent historian of the Egyptian cam-
paigns, says : " Baker knew, or ought to have known, the
composition of the troops he commanded, and to take
such men into action was simply to court disaster."
What ought we to say of Hicks ?
We now come to General Gordon, who from 1874 to
1876 had been working in the Upper Soudan on the
lines commenced by Sir Samuel Baker, conciliating
natives, crushing slave caravans, destroying slave sta-
tions, and extending Egyptian authority by lines of
VOL. i. C
18
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
fortified forts up to the Albert Nyanza. After four
months' retirement he was appointed Governor-General
of the Soudan, of Darfur, and the Equatorial Provinces.
Among others whom Gordon employed as Governors of
these various provinces under his Vice-regal Government
was one Edward Schnitzler, a German born in Oppeln,
EMIN PASHA.
Prussia, 28th March, 1840, of Jewish parents, who had
seen service in Turkey, Armenia, Syria, and Arabia, in
the suite of Ismail Hakki Pasha, once Governor- General
of Scutari, and a Mushir of the Empire. On the death
of his patron he had departed to Niesse, where his
mother, sister, and cousins lived, and where he stayed
for several months, and thence left for Egypt. He, in
GENERAL GORDON AND EDWARD SCHNITZLER. 19
1875, thence travelled to Khartoum, and being a medical
doctor, was employed by Gordon Pasha in that capacity.
He assumed the name and title of Emin Eft'endi Hakim
the faithful physician. He was sent to Lado as store-
keeper and doctor, was afterwards despatched to King
Mtesa on a political mission, recalled to Khartoum ;
again despatched on a similar mission to King Kabba-
Eega of Unyoro, and finally, in 1878, was promoted to
Bey, and appointed Governor of the Equatorial Pro-
vince of Ha-tal-astiva, which, rendered into English,
means Equatoria, at a salary of 50 per month. A
mate of one of the Peninsular and Oriental steamers,
called Lupton, was promoted to the rank of Governor
of the Province of Bahr-el-Ghazal, which adjoined
Equatoria.
On hearing of the deposition of Ismail in 1879,
Gordon surrendered his high office in the hands of
Tewfik, the new Khedive, informing him that he did not
intend to resume it.
In 1880 he accepted the post of Secretary under the
Marquis of Ripon, but resigned it within a month.
In 1881 he is in Mauritius as Commandant of the
Eoyal Engineers. In about two months he abandons
that post to proceed to the assistance of the Cape
authorities in their difficulty with the Basutos, but, after
a little experience, finds himself unable to agree with
the views of the Cape Government, and resigns.
Meantime, I have been labouring on the Congo River.
Our successes in that immense territory of Western
Africa have expanded into responsibilities so serious
that they threaten to become unmanageable. When I
visit the Lower Congo affairs become deranged on the
Upper Congo ; if I confine myself to the Upper Congo
there is friction in the Lower Congo. Wherefore, feeling
an intense interest in the growth of the territory which
was rapidly developing into a State, I suggested to His
Majesty King Leopold, as early as September, 1882, and
again in the spring of 1883, that I required as an
associate a person of merit, rank, and devotion to work,
such as General Gordon, who would undertake either
20 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
the management of the Lower or Upper Congo, while I
would work in the other section, as a vast amount of
valuable time was consumed in travelling up and down
from one to the other, and young officers of stations
were so apt to take advantage of my absence. His
Majesty promised to request the aid of General Gordon,
but for a long time the replies were unfavourable.
Finally, in the spring of 1884, I received a letter in
General Gordon's well-known handwriting, which in-
formed me I was to expect him by the next mail.
It appears, however, that he had no sooner mailed
his letter to me and parted from His Majesty than he
was besieged by applications from his countrymen to
assist the Egyptian Government in extricating the
beleaguered garrison of Khartoum from their impending
fate. Personally I know nothing of what actually
happened when he was ushered by Lord Wolseley into
the presence of Lord Granville, but I have been in-
formed that General Gordon was confident he could
perform the mission entrusted to him. There is a
serious discrepancy in the definition of this mission.
The Egyptian authorities were anxious for the evacua-
tion of Khartoum only, and it is possible that Lord
Granville only needed Gordon's services for this humane
mission, all the other garrisons to be left to their fate
because of the supposed impossibility of rescuing them.
The Blue Books which contain the official despatches
seem to confirm the probability of this. But it is
certain that Lord Granville instructed General Gordon
to proceed to Egypt to report on the situation of the
Soudan, and on the best measures that should be taken
for the security of the Egyptian garrisons (in the plural),
and for the safety of the European population in
Khartoum. " He was to perform such other duties as
the Egyptian Government might wish to entrust to him.
He was to be accompanied by Colonel Stewart.
Sir Evelyn Baring, after a prolonged conversation
with Gordon, gives him his final instructions on behalf of
the British Government.
A precis of these is as follows :
GENERAL GORDON AND KHARTOUM. 21
1. " Ensure retreat of the European population from 10,000 to 15,000
people, and of the garrison of Kartoum.' *
2. " You know best the when and how to effect this."
3. " You \\ill bear in mind that the main end (of your Mission) is
the evacuation of the Soudan."
4. " As you are of opinion it could be done, endeavour to make a
confederation of the native tribes to take the place of Egyptian authority."
5. " A credit of 100,000 is opened for you at the Finance Department."
Gordon has succeeded in infusing confidence in the
minds of the Egyptian Ministry, who were previously
panic-stricken and cried out for the evacuation of
Khartoum only. They breathe freer after seeing and
hearing him, and according to his own request they
invest him with the Governor-Generalship. The firman,
given him, empowers him to evacuate the respective
territories (of the Soudan) and to withdraw the troops,
civil officials, and such of the inhabitants as wish to
leaA T e for Egypt, and if possible, after completing the
evacuation (and this was an absolute impossibility) he
was to establish an organized Government. With these
instructions Lord Granville concurs.
I am told that it was understood, however, that he
was to do what he could do everything necessary, in
fact, if possible ; if not all the Soudan, then he was to
proceed to evacuating Khartoum only, without loss of
time. But this is not on official record until March
2 3rd, 1884, and it is not known whether he ever
received this particular telegram. f
General Gordon proceeded to Khartoum on January
26th, 1884, and arrived in that city on the 18th of the
following month. During his journey he sent frequent
despatches by telegraph abounding in confidence. Mr.
Power, the acting consul and Times correspondent,
wired the following despatch " The people (of Khar-
toum) are devoted to General Gordon, whose design is
to save the garrison, and for ever leave the Soudan as
perforce it must be left to the Soudanese.
* No. 2 clashes with No. 3 somewhat. Khartoum and the Soudan are
not synonymous terms. To withdraw the garrison of Khartoum is an
easy task, to evacuate the Soudan is an impossibility for a single person.
t This is the only clearly worded despatch that I have been able to find
in the Blue Book of the period.
22 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
The English press, which had been so wise respecting
the chances of Valentine Baker Pasha, were very much
in the condition of the people of Khartoum, that is,
devoted to General Gordon and sanguine of his success.
He had performed such wonders in China he had
laboured so effectually in crushing the slave-trade in
the Soudan, he had won the affection of the sullen
Soudanese, that the press did not deem it at all
improbable that Gordon with his white wand and six
servants could rescue the doomed garrisons of Senaar,
Bahr-el-Ghazal and Equatoria a total of 29,000 men,
besides the civil employees and their wives and families ;
and after performing that more than herculean -
nay utterly impossible task establish an organized
Government.
On February 29th Gordon telegraphs, " There is not
much chance of improving, and every chance is getting
worse," and on the 2nd of the month " I have no option
about staying at Khartoum, it has passed out of my
hands." On the 16th March he predicts that before
long " we shall be blocked." At the latter end of March
he telegraphs, " We have provisions for five months, and
are hemmed in."
It is clear that a serious misunderstanding had
occurred in the drawing up of the instructions by
Sir Evelyn Baring and their comprehension of them by
General Gordon, for the latter expresses himself to the
former thus :
" You ask me to state cause and reason of my intention
for my staying at Khartoum. I stay at Khartoum
because Arabs have shut us up, and will not let us out."
Meantime public opinion urged on the British Govern-
ment the necessity of despatching an Expedition to
withdraw General Gordon from Khartoum. But as it
was understood between General Gordon and Lord
Granville that the former's mission was for the purpose
of dispensing with the services of British troops in the
Soudan, and as it was its declared policy not to employ
English or Indian troops in that region, the Government
were naturally reluctant to yield to the demand of the
GENERAL GOEDON AND KHARTOUM. 23
public. At last, however, as the clamour increased and
Parliament and public joined in affirming that it was a
duty on the country to save the brave man who had so
willingly volunteered to perform such an important
service for his country, Mr. Gladstone rose in the House
of Commons on the 5th August to move a vote of
credit to undertake operations for the relief of Gordon.
Two routes were suggested by which the Relief
Expedition could approach Khartoum the short cut
across the desert from Suakim to Berber, and the other
by the Nile. Gordon expressed his preference for that
up the Nile, and it was this latter route that the
Commanding General of the Relief Expedition adopted.
On the 18th September, the steamer "Abbas," with
Colonel Stewart (Gordon's companion), Mr. Power, the
Times correspondent, Mr. Herbin, the French Consul,
and a number of Greeks and Egyptians on board forty-
four men all told on trying to pass by the cataract
of Abu Hamid was wrecked in the cataract. The Arabs
on the shore invited them to land in peace, but unarmed.
Stewart complied, and he and the two Consuls (Power
and Herbin) and Hassan Eifendi went ashore and entered
a house, in which they were immediately murdered.
On the 17th November, Gordon reports to Lord
Wolseley, who was then at Wady Haifa, that he can hold
out for forty days yet, that the Mahdists are to the
south, south-west, and east, but not to the north of
Khartoum.
By Christmas Day, 1884, a great part of the Expedi-
tionary Force was assembled at Korti. So far, the ad-
vance of the Expedition had been as rapid as the energy
and skill of the General commanding could command.
Probably there never was a force so numerous animated
with such noble ardour and passion as this under Lord
Wolseley for the rescue of that noble and solitary
Englishman at Khartoum.
On December 30th, a part of General Herbert Stewart's
force moves from Korti towards Gakdul Wells, with
2099 camels. In 46 hours and 50 minutes it has
reached Gakdul Wells ; 1 1 hours later Sir Herbert Stewart
24 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
with all the camels starts on his return journey to Korti,
which place was reached January 5th. On the 12th
Sir Herbert Stewart was back at Gakdul Wells, and
at 2 p.m. of the 13th the march towards Abu Klea was
resumed. On the 17th, the famous battle of Abu
Klea was fought, resulting in a hard-won victory to the
English troops, with a loss of 9 officers and 65 men
killed and 85 wounded, out of a total of 1800, while
1100 of the enemy lay dead before the square. It ap-
irs probable that if the 3000 English sent up the
File Valley had been with this gallant little force, it
would have been a mere walk over for the English army.
After another battle on the 19th near Metammeh, where
20 men were killed and 60 wounded of the English, and
250 of the enemy, a village on a gravel terrace near the
Nile was occupied. On the 21st, four steamers belonging
to General Gordon appeared. The officer in command
stated that they had been lying for some weeks near an
island awaiting the arrival of the British column. The
22nd and 23rd were expended by Sir Chas. Wilson in
making a reconnaissance, building two forts, changing the
crews of the steamers, and preparing fuel. On the 24th,
two of the steamers started - r x r Khartoum, carrying only
20 English soldiers. On the 26th two men came aboard
and reported that there had been fighting at Khartoum ;
on the 27th a man cried out from the bank that the town
had fallen, and that Gordon had been killed. The next day
the last news was confirmed by another man. Sir Charlea
Wilson steamed on until his steamers became the target
of cannon from Omdurman and from Khartoum, besides
rifles from a distance of from 75 to 200 yards, and turned
back only when convinced that the sad news was only
too true. Steaming down river then at full speed he
reached Tamanieb when he halted for the night. From
here he sent out two messengers to collect news. One
returned saying that he had met an Arab who informed
him that Khartoum had been entered on the night of the
26th January through the treachery of Farag Pasha, and
that Gordon was killed ; that the Mahdi had on the next
day entered the city and had gone into a mosque to re-
BATTLE OF ABU KLEA AND NEWS OF GORDON 8 DEATH. 25
turn thanks and had then retired, and had given the city
up to three days' pillage.
In Major Kitchener's report we find a summary of the
results of the taking of Khartoum. " The massacre in
the town lasted some six hours, and about 4000 persons
at least were killed. The Bashi Bazouks and white
regulars numbering 3327, and the Shaigia irregulars
numbering 2330, were mostly all killed in cold blood
after they had surrendered and been disarmed." The
surviving inhabitants of the town were ordered out, and
as they passed through the gate were searched, and then
taken to Omdurman where the women were distributed
among the Mahdist chiefs, and the men were stripped and
turned adrift to pick a living as they could. A Greek
merchant, who escaped from Khartoum, reported that the
town was betrayed by the merchants there, who desired
to make terms with the enemy, and not by Farag Pasha.
Darfur, Kordofan, Senaar, Bahr-el-Ghazal, Khartoum,
had been possessed by the enemy ; Kassala soon followed,
and throughout the length and breadth of the Soudan
there now remained only the Equatorial Province, whose
Governor was Emin Bey Hakim the Faithful Physician.
Naturally, if English people felt that they were in
duty bound to rescue their brave countryman, and a
gallant General of such genius and reputation as Gordon,
they would feel a lively interest in the fate of the last of
Gordon's Governors, who, by a prudent Fabian policy,
it was supposed, had evaded the fate which had befallen
the armies and garrisons of the Soudan. It follows also
that, if the English were solicitous for the salvation of
the garrison of Khartoum, they would feel a propor-
tionate solicitude for the fate of a brave officer and his
little army in the far South, and that, if assistance could
be rendered at a reasonable cost, there would be no
difficulty in raising a fund to effect that desirable object.
On November 16, 1884, Emin Bey informs Mr. A. M.
Mackay, the missionary in Uganda, by letter written at
Lado, that " the Soudan has become the theatre of an
insurrection ; that for nineteen months he is without
news from Khartoum, and that thence he is led to
26 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
believe that the town has been taken by the insurgents,
or that the Nile is blocked " ; but he says :
" Whatever it proves to be, please inform your correspondents and
through them the Egyptian Government that to this day we are well, and
that we propose to hold out until help may reach us or until we perish."
A second note from Emin Bey to the same missionary,
on the same date as the preceding, contains the fol-
lowing :
" The Bahr- Ghazal Province being lost and Lupton Bey, the governor,
carried away to Kordofan, we are unable to inform our Government of
what happens here. For nineteen months we have had no communication
from Khartoum, so I suppose the river is blocked up."
" Please therefore inform the Egyptian Government by some means that
we are well to this day, but greatly in need of help. We shall hold out
until we obtain such help or until we perish."
To Mr. Charles H. Allen, Secretary of the Anti-
Slavery Society, Emin Bey writes from Wadelai, De-
cember 31, 1885, as follows :
" Ever since the month of May, 1888, we have been cut off from all
communication with the world. Forgotten, and abandoned by the
Government, we have been compelled to make a virtue of necessity.
Since the occupation of the Bahr-Ghazal we have been vigorously
attacked, and I do not know how to describe to you the admirable
devotion of my black troops throughout a long war, which for them at
least, has no advantage. Deprived of the most necessary things for a long
time without any pay, my men fought valiantly, and when at last
hunger weakened them, when, after nineteen days of incredible privation
and sufferings, their strength was exhausted, and when the last tern
leather of the last boot had been eaten, then they cut away through the
midst of their enemies and succeeded in saving themselves. All this
hardship was undergone without the least arriere-pensee, without even the
hope of any appreciable reward, prompted only by their duty and the
desire of showing a proper valour before their enemies."
This is a noble record of valour and military virtue.
I remember the appearance of this letter in the Times,
and the impression it made on myself and friends. It
was only a few days after the appearance of this letter
that we began to discuss ways and means of relief for
the writer.
The following letter also impressed me very strongly.
It is written to Dr. R. W. Felkin on the same date,
December 31, 1885.
******
" You will probably know through the .daily papers that poor Lupton,
LETTERS FROM EMIN BEY IN 1885-6. 27
after having bravely held the Bahr-Ghazal Province was compelled, through
the treachery of his own people, to surrender to the emissaries of the late
Madhi, and was carried by them to Kordofan."
" My province and also myself I only saved from a like fate by a
stratagem, but at last I was attacked, and many losses in both men and
ammunition were the result, until ] delivered such a heavy blow to the
rebels at Rimo, in Makraka, that compelled them to leave me alone.
Before this took place they informed us that Khartoum fell, in January
3885, and that Gordon was killed."
" Naturally on account of these occurrences I have been compelled to
evacuate our more distant stations, and withdraw our soldier's and their
families, still hoping that our Government will send us help. It seems,
however, that 1 have deceived rays-ell, for since April, 1883, 1 have
received no news of any kind from the north."
'* The Government in Khartoum did not behave well to us. Before they
evacuated Fashoda, they ought to have remembered that Government
officials were living here (Equatorial Provinces) who had performed
their duty, and had not deserved to be left to their fate without more
ado. Even if it were the intention of the Government to deliver us over
to our fate, the least they could have done was to have released us from
our duties ; we should then have known that we were considered to have
become valueless."
******
" Anyway it was necessary for us to seek some way of escape, and in
the first place it was urgent to send news of our existence in Egypt.
"With this object in view I went south, after having made the necessary
arrangements at Lado, and came to Wadelai."
******
" As to my future plans, I intend to hold this country as long as
possible. I hope that when our letters arrive in Eg\ pt, in seven or eight
months, a reply will be sent to me via Khartoum or Zanzibar. If the
Egyptian Government still exists in the Soudan we naturally expect
them to send us help. If, however, the Soudan has been evacuated, I
shall take the whole of the people towards the south. I shall then send
Eege
This is. very clear that Emin Pasha at this time
proposed to relieve himself of the Egyptian officials,
and that he himself on'y intended to remain until the
Egyptian Government could communicate to him its
wishes. Those " wishes " were that he should abandon
his province, as they were unable to maintain it, and
take advantage of the escort, to leave Africa.
In a letter written to Mr. Mackay dated July 6th,
1886, Emin says :
" In the first place believe me that I am in no hurry to break away
from here, or to leave those countries in which I have now laboured for
ten years."
******
" All my people, but especially the negro troops, entertain a strong
28 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
objection against a march to the south and thence to Egypt, and mean to
remain here until they can be taken north. Meantime, if no danger
overtakes us, and our ammunition holds out for some time longer, I mean
to follow your advice and remain here until help comes to us from some
quarter. At all events, you may rest assured that we will occasion no
disturbance to you in Uganda."
"I shall determine on a march to the coast only in a case of dire
necessity. There are, moreover, two other routes before me. One from
Kabba-Kega's direct to Karagwe ; the other via Usongora to 1he stations
at Tanganika. I hope, however, that I shall have no need to make use of
either."
******
" My people have become impatient through long delay, and are
anxiously looking for help at last. It would also be most desirable that
some Commissioner carne here from Europe, either direct by the Masai
route, or from Karagwe via Kabba Keg;a's country, in order that my people
may actually see that there is some interest taken in them. I would
defray with ivory all expenses of such a Commission."
" As I once more repeat, I am ready to stay and to hold these
countries as long a I can until help comes, and I beseech you to do what
you can to hasten the arrival of such assistance. Assure Mwanga that he
has nothing to fear from me or my people, and that as an old friend of
Mtesa's I have no intention to trouble him."
In the above letters we have Emin Bey's views,
wherein we gather that his people are loyal that is
they are obedient to his commands, but that none of
them, judging from the tenour of the letters, express
any inclination to return to Egypt, excepting the
Egyptians. He is at the same time pondering upon
the routes by which it is possible to retreat elsewhere
he suggests the Monbuttu route to the sea ; in these
letters he hints at Masai Land, or through Unyoro,
and west of Uganda to Usongora, and thence to Tan-
ganika ! If none of the black troops intended to follow
him, he certainly could not have done so with only the
Egyptian officials and their families.
From the following letters from the Consul-General,
F. Holmwood, to Sir Evelyn Baring, dated September
25th and September 27th, we gather Mr. Holmwood's
views, who, from his position and local knowledge,
was very competent to furnish information as to what
could be done in the way of the proposed relief.
" In Emin's letters to me he only reports his situation up to 27th
February, 1886, when he proposed evacuating his province by detach-
ments, the first of which he proposed to despatch at the close of the rains
toward the end of July ; but both Dr. Junker and Mr. Mackay inform me
EMIN BEY'S VIEWS OF HIS PEOPLE. 29
that they have since heard from Emin that the majority of the 4000
loyal Egyptian subjects who have remained faithful to Egypt throughout,
and have supported him in the face of the constant attacks from the
Mahdi's adherents, aggravated by an imminent danger of starvation,
refuse to leave their country, and he had therefore determined, if he
could possibly do so, to remain at his post, and continue to protect
Egyptian interests till relief arrived."
******
"Were Uganda freed from this tyrant (Mwanga), the Equatorial
Province, even should the present elementary system of communication
remain unmodified, would be within eight weeks' post of Zanzibar, and a
safe depot on the Albert Nyanza would provide a base for any further
operations that might be decided upon."
" Dr. Junker states that the country to the east of the Kipon Falls*
has proved impracticable, and that Emin has lost many troops in en-
deavouring to open communication through it. If such ' be the case the
alternative line by which Dr. Fischer tried to relieve Junker, and which
I believe he still recommends, could not be relied on for turning Uganda
and its eastern dependency, and the well-known route via Uganda would
be the only one available tor an Expedition of moderate size."
******
" As far as I am able to judge, without making any special calculation,
I consider that 1200 porters would be the smallest number that would
suffice, and a well-armed guard of at least 500 natives would be
necessary."
* * * * * *
" General Matthews, whom I had consulted as to the force necessary
for the safety of the Expedition, is of opinion that I have formed far too
low an estimate, but after weighing the testimony of many experienced
persons acquainted with Uganda, I must adhere to my opinion that 500
native troops armed with modern rifles and under experienced persons,
would, ]f supplemented by the irregular force, fully suffice."
An American officer of the Khedivial Government
writes to Mr. Portal, and suggests that communication
with Emin might be opened by the Zanzibar Arabs, but
that to send stores and ammunition to him was im-
possible ; that the Arabs might manage for his passage,
though his safest line of retreat was westward to reach
the Congo.
Mr. Fred Holmwood, in his despatch to the Foreign
Office of September 23rd, 1886, writes that, "had it
not been for the dangerous attitude of the King of
Uganda, the question of relieving Emin would have
been merely one of expenditure to be settled at Cairo ;
but under present circumstances, many other serious
considerations are involved in it which will have to be
referred to Her Majesty's Government.
* This route would be through Masai Land.
30 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
" I would call attention to the account contained in
Mr. Mackay's letter regarding the alternative route to
Wadelai which Dr. Fischer endeavoured to take and, I
believe, still recommends. If this statement be correct,
any attempt to turn Uganda or its Eastern dependency
by this unexplored line would probably fail. "
Mr. A. M. Mackay writes from Uganda, May 14th,
1886.
" From Dr. Junker's letter you will have seen that Emin Bey has had
the good fortune to have secured the loyalty of the people he governs.
Emin seems to have learned Gordon's secret of securing the affection of
his subjects, and has bravely stuck to them. There can be no doubt
at all but that had he been anxious to leave he would with a few hundred
of his soldiers have easily made a dash for the coast either through the
Masai Land or this way, asking no permission from Mwanga (King of
Uganda) or anyone else. He knows that there is no power here able to
stop him. In fact years ago he wrote me that it would be nothing
to him to storm this wretched village and drive off the cattle."
" But what would be the fate of thousands of people who have
remained loyal on the Upper Nile? Dr. Junker speaks of thousands.
They do not want to be taken out of their own fertile country, and taken
to the deserts of Upper Egypt.'
" Dr. Emin is on all hands allowed to be a wise and able Governor.
But he cannot remain for ever where he is, nor can he succeed himself,
even should the Mahdi's troops leave him undisturbed in the future.
His peculiar position should be taken advantage of by our country, which
undertook to rescue the garrisons of the Soudan."
* * * * * *
" Mwanga's action with respect to the letters forwarded him for
Dr. Emin, was as disrespectful as possible to the British Government
which had received with such kindness his father's envoys. We asked
him merely to forward the letters in the first place until he should
receive word from Emin as to whether or not he was prepared to come
this way, but he detained your packet altogether."
In Mr. Mackay's letter to Sir John Kirk, June 28th 5
1886, he says :
" Dr. Fischer's difficulties would also only really begin after Kavirondo,
as he then had the country of the dreaded Bakedi to cross, and Dr.
Junker tells me that whole parties of Dr. Emin's soldiers have been
repeatedly murdered by them."
Dr. Fischer, it will be remembered, was engaged to
proceed to Equatoria in search of Dr. Junker by that
traveller's brother, and chose the road via East coast of
the Victoria Lake. Arriving at the N.E. corner of the
Lake he returned to the coast.
Mr. Mackay proceeds :
LETTERS FROM MR. A. M. MAC KAY. 31
" Dr. Junker is living here with us. He brought mo a letter from Emin
Bey dated the 27th January (1886). He then proposed sending his people
at once this way some 4000 in small detachments. This policy would
be fatal. He also asked me to go to meet him with a view to bringing
here two steamers which otherwise he would have to abandon. One of
them he meant for the King, and the other for the mission."
" Since then, however, he finds that his people, officers and men, refuse
to leave the Soudan, hence he is prepared to remain some years with
them provided only he can get supplies of cloth, etc."
Mr. Mackay always writes sensibly. I obtained a
great deal of solid information from these letters.
Naturally he writes in the full belief that Emin's
troops are loyal. We all shared in this belief. We
now see that we were grossly misled, and that at no
time could Emin have cut his way to the coast through
Uganda or any other country with men of such fibre as
his ignorant and stolid Soudanese.
Mr. Joseph Thomson, in a letter to the Times,
suggested a route through the Masai Land, and proposed
to be responsible for the safe conduct of a Eelief Expe-
dition through that country.
Mr. J. T. Wills suggested that the Mobangi- Welle
would prove an excellent way to Emin.
Mr. Harrison Smith expressed himself assured that a
way by Abyssinia would be found feasible.
Another gentleman interested in the African Lakes
Company proposed that the Expedition should adopt
the Zambezi- Shire-Nyassa route, and thence via Tanga-
nika north to Muta Nzige and Lake Albert, and a
missionary from the Tanganika warmly endorsed it, as
not presenting more difficulties than any other.
Dr. Felkin, in the ' Scottish Geographical Magazine/
after examining several routes carefully, came to the
conclusion that a road west of Lake Victoria and Ka-
ragwe, through Usongora to Lake Albert, possessed
some advantages over any other.
Early in October, 1886, Sir William Mackirmon and
Mr. J. F. Hutton, ex-President of the Manchester
Chamber of Commerce, had spoken with me respecting
the possibilities of conveying relief to Emin, with a
view to enable him to hold his own. To them it seemed
that he only required ammunition, and I shared their
32 IN DAEKEST AFRICA.
opinion, and they were very earnest in their intention
to collect funds for the support he required. But many
of their friends were absent from town, and they could
not decide alone what should be done without consulta-
tion. We discussed estimates and routes, and Mr.
Hutton informs me that the rough estimate I furnished
him then exceeds by 500 the actual cost of the
Expedition.
As for routes, I intimated to them that there were
four almost equally feasible.
The first, via Masai Land, was decidedly objectionable
while carrying a vast store of ammunition which abso-
lutely must reach Emin. Mr Thomson had tried it,
and his account of the extremities to which he was driven
on returning from the Lake Victoria, for want of water
and grain, were extremely unfavourable. In proceeding to
the lake his people were dispirited, and deserted in such
numbers that he was obliged to return a short distance,
to Kilima Njaro, leave his camp there, and proceed with a
few men back to the coast to recruit more men. In case
of a pressing necessity like this it would be extremely
unwise to return a mile after commencing the march.
The tendency of the Zanzibaris to desert also was
another disadvantage, and desertion of late from East
Coast Expeditions had assumed alarming proportions
owing to the impunity with which they could decamp
with rifles and loads, and the number of opportunities
presented to them. Many of the Zanzibaris had become
professional advance -jumpers, and the greater the
expedition the greater would be the loss in money,
rifles and stores.
The second, via Victoria Nyanza and Uganda, which
was naturally the best, was rendered impossible for a
small expedition because of the hostility of Uganda,
Even this hostility could be avoided if there were any
vessels on Lake Victoria capable of transporting across
the lake such an expedition as was needed. The danger
of desertion was just as imminent on this as on the first.
The third was via Msalala, Karagwe and Ankori, and
Unyoro and Lake Albert. Immense loss of men and
EOUTES SUGGESTED FOR EMIN S RELIEF. 33
goods would assuredly follow any attempt from the
East Coast. Fifty per cent, loss was unavoidable, and
no precautions would avail to prevent desertion.
Besides, Karagwe was garrisoned by the Waganda, and
no expedition could pass through that country without
persistent hostility from the Waganda. If fortunate
enough to force our way through Karagwe, we should
have to reckon w'th the Wanyankori, who number
200,000 spears, and if introduced to them by fighting
the Karagwe natives the outlook would be dismal in the
extreme. As for going through any country west of
Karagwe to avoid the Waganda that would be impos-
sible, except at a cost that I did not suppose the sub-
scribers would contemplate paying.
" The whole question resolves itself into that of money.
With money enough every route is possible ; but as
I understand it, you propose to subscribe a moderate
amount, and therefore there is only one route which
is safely open for the money, and that is the Congo.
This river has the disadvantage of not having enough
transport vessels in its upper portion. I would propose
then to supplement the Upper Congo flotilla with
fifteen whale-boats, which will take an Expedition to
within 200 miles, at least, of the Albert Nyanza. A
heavy labour will be carrying the whale-boats from the
Lower Congo to the Upper, but we can easily manage
it by sending agents at once there to prepare carriers.
There is one thing, however, hat must be done which
is to obtain the sanction of King Leopold.
' But it may be we are rather premature in dis-
cussing the matter at all. You know I am aware
of many projects mooted, and much ' talk ' has been
expended on each and this may end in smoke collect
your funds, and then call upon me if you want me.
If you do not require me after this exposition of
my views, let Thomson take his Expedition through
the Masai Land, and put me down for 500 subscrip-
tion for it."
As the middle of November drew near, Sir William
Mackinnon requested me to write him a letter upon the
VOL. i. B
34 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
subject that he might show it to his friends, who would
soon be returning to town.
A few days after the despatch of the letter, I sailed
for America, and on arrival at New York, the lecture
" Tour," as it is called, commenced. But on the
llth December, the fifteenth day after arrival, I received
the j.ollowing :
" London.
" Your plan and offer accepted. Authorities approve. Funds provided.
Business urgent. Come promptly. Keply.
" MACKINNON."
A reply was sent from St. Johnsbury, Vermont, for
thus far the lecture tour had reached, as follows :
' Just received Monday's cablegram. Many thanks. Everything all
right. Will sail per Eider s a.m. Wednesday morning. If good weather
and barring accidents arrive 22nd December, Southampton. It is only
one month's delay after all. Tell the authorities to prepare Holm wood
(Consul General) Zanzibar, and Seyyid Barghash (Prince of Zanzibar).
Best complimen s to you.
" STANLEY."
My agent, was in despair the audiences were so kind
the receptions were ovations, but arguments and
entreaties were of no avail.
I arrived in England the day preceding Christmas,
and within a few hours Sir William Mackinnon and
myself were discussing the Expedition.
Of course, and without the least shade of doubt, I
was firmly convinced that the Congo River route was
infinitely the best and safest, provided that I should get
my flotilla of whale-boats, and the permission of King
Leopold to pass through his territory with an armed
force. I knew a route from the East Coast, and was
equally acquainted with that from the West Coast.
From the furthest point reached by me in 1876, along
the East Coast road, the distance was but 100 miles
to Lake Albert from Yambuya Rapids the distance
was 322 geographical miles in an air line to the lake.
Yet to the best of my judgment the Congo route was
preferable. We should have abundance of water
which was so scanty and bad along the Eastern route ;
food there must be it was natural to expect it from my
knowledge that unsurpassed fertility such as the Upper
AN EMIN EELIEF FUND RAISED. 35
Congo regions possesses would have been long ago
discovered by the aborigines, whereas we knew from
Thomson, Fischer, and Hannington's experiences that
food and water was scanty in Masai Land ; then again,
that wholesale desertion so frequent on the East Coast
would be avoided on the West Coast.
Yet notwithstanding they admitted that I might be
right, it was the opinion of the Committee that it would
be best to adopt the Eastern route.
" Very good, it is perfectly immaterial to me. Let us decide on the East
Coast route, via Msalala, Karagwe, Ankori, and Unyoro. If 3011 hear of
some hard-fighting, I look to you that you will defend the absent. If I
could drop this ammunition in Emin's camp from a balloon I certainly
would do so, and avoid coming in contact with those warlike natives, but
it is decided that the means of defence must be put into Emin's hand*,
and you have entrusted me with the escort of it. So be it."
A Eelief Fund was raised, the subscriptions to which
were as follows :
Sir William Mackinnon, Bart. . . 2,000
Peter Mackinnon, Esq 1,000
John Mackinnon, Esq 300
Baroness Burdett-Coutts .... 100
W. Burdett-Coutts, Esq 400
James S. Jameson, Esq 1,000
Countess de Noailles 1,000
Peter Denny , Esq. , of Dumbarton . 1,000
Henry Johnson Younger, Esq., of the
Scottish Geographical Society . . 500
Alexander L. Bruce, Esq., of the
Scottish Geographical Society .
Messrs. Gray, Dawes & Co., of London
Duncan Mac Neil, Esq
James F. Hutton, Esq., of Manchester
Sir Thos. Fowell Buxton ....
James Hall, Esq., of Argyleshire . .
N. McMichael, Esq., of Glasgow .
Royal Geographical Society, London .
Egyptian Government ....
21,500*
* See Appendix for full statement of Receipts and Expenditure.
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
In order to increase the funds and create a provision
against contingencies, I volunteered to write letters
from Africa, which the Committee might dispose of to
the press as they saw fit, and accept whatever moneys
that might receive as my contribution to it.
The estimate of time required to reach Emin Pasha,
after a careful calculation, was formed on the basis that
whereas I travelled in 1874-5 a distance of 720 miles
in 103 days, therefore :
1st route. By Masai Lan<1, march to Wadelai and return to coast
14 months. Keserve for delays 4 months = 18 months.
2nd route. By Msalala, Karagwe, Ankori, and Usongora to Lake
Albert. Land march to and return 16 months, delays
4 months = 20 months.
3rd route. Via Congo.
Zanzibar to Congo . . 1 mth. = 1st April, 1887
Overland route to Stanley Pool 1 = 1st May
By steam up the Congo . 1 = 15th June ,
Halt ..... ". 25th
Yambuya to Albert Nyanza. 3 mths = 2">th Sept., 1887
Halt ....... 9th Jan., 1888
Albert Nyanza to Zanzibar.) u Q ,,
land march f 8 : 8th ^P*-
Delays . . . . 3} = 18 months.
The actual time, however, occupied by the Expedition
is as follows :
Arrive at Congo .
Stanley Pool
Yambuya
Halt at Yambuya .
Albert Nyanza
Return to Fort Bqdo
Halt while collecting convalescents
The Albert Nyanza, 2nd time
Halt until ....
Fort Bodo again .
Banalya 90 miles from Yambuya
Fort B-ido again .
Albert Nyanza, 3rd time
Halt near Albert Nyanza until
March to Zanzibar, 1400 miles, 6 months
18th Mar., 1887
21st Apr.
15th June
28th
13th Dec.
8th Jan., 1888
2nd Apr.
18th
25th May
8th June
17th Aug.
20th Dec.
26th Jan., 18S9
8th May
6th Dec.
So that we actually occupied a little over 10-j months from
Zanzibar to the Albert Nyanza, and
from the Nyanza to the Indian Ocean . 6
Halt at the Albert . .1*
18
PURCHASING GOODS FOR THE EXPEDITION. 37
I was formally informed by letter on the 31st of
December, 1886, that I might commence my preparations.
The first order I gave in connection with the Expedi-
tion for the relief of Emin Bey was by cable to Zanzibar
to my agent, Mr. Edmund Mackenzie, of Messrs. Smith,
Mackenzie & Co., to engage 200 Wanyamwezi porters
at Bagamoyo to convey as many loads of rice ( = 6 tons)
to the missionary station at Mpwapwa, which was about
200 miles east of Zanzibar, the cost of which was
2,700 rupees.
The second order, after receiving the consent of His
Highness the Seyyid of Zanzibar, was to enlist GOO
Zanzibari porters, and also the purchase of the following
goods, to be used for barter for native provisions, such as
grain, potatoes, rice, Indian corn, bananas, plantains, etc.
Yards.
<\>\J JJ
865
itrcus
yy
5 VtJV J
(8
<*iu.a cauny ui IMUWIJ cmcctiug
) of kaniki .
6,9-20
99
(8
) handkej-chiefs
792
80
yy
(8
) taujiri
640
214
yy
(8
) dabwani
1,712
107
(8
) sohari
856
27
(8
) Bubaya
216
121
yy
(8
) Barnati
968
58
(24
) kunguru
1,392
48
yy
(8
yy
) ismaili
384
119
yy
(8
) kikoi .
952
14
f4
) daole .
56
27
yy
(4
u
) jawah.
108
4
4
(24
yy
) kanga.
) bindera
96
96
58
(8
) rehani
464
6
yy
(30
" }
) joho .
180
24
(4
yy
) silk kikoi
96
*4
(4
) silk daole
96
24
4
) fine dabwani
96
13
4
yy
) sohari.
52
3
n j i
(30
yy
) fine sheeting
90
24 long shirts, white
24 brown
Total yards
27,262
Also 3,600 Ibs. of beads and 1 ton of wire, brass, copper,
iron.
The third order was for the purchase of forty pack
donkeys and ten riding asses, which necessitated an
order for saddles to match, at an expense of 400.
Messrs. Forrest & Son received a design and order
38 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
for the construction of a steel boat 28 ft. long, 6 ft.
beam, and 2 ft. 6 in. deep. It was to be built of
Siemens steel galvanized, and divided into twelve
sections, each weighing about 75 Ibs. The fore and
aft sections were to be decked and watertight, to give
buoyancy in case of accident.
From Egypt were despatched to Zanzibar 510
Eemington rifles, 2 tons of gunpowder, 350,000 per-
cussion caps, and 100,000 rounds Remington ammuni-
tion. In England the War Office furnished me with
30,000 Gratling cartridges, and from Messrs. Kynoch &
Co., Birmingham, I received 35,000 special Remington
cartridges. Messrs. Watson & Co., of 4, Pall Mall,
packed up 50 Winchester repeaters and 50,000 Win-
chester cartridges. Hiram Maxim, the inventor of the
Maxim Automatic Gun, donated as a gift one of his
wonderful weapons, with shield attached mounted on
a light but effective stand.
We despatched to Zanzibar 100 shovels, 100 hoes,
for forming breastworks, 100 axes for palisading the
camp, 100 bill-hooks for building zeribas.
Messrs. Burroughs & Welcome, of Snowhill Buildings,
London, the well-known chemists, furnished gratis nine
beautiful chests replete with every medicament neces-
sary to combat the endemic diseases peculiar to Africa.
Every drug was in tablets mixed with quick solvents,
every compartment was well stocked with essentials for
the doctor and surgeon. Nothing was omitted, and we
all owe a deep debt of gratitude to these gentlemen, not
only for the intrinsic value of these chests and excellent
medicines, but also for the personal selection of the best
that London could furnish, and the supervision of the
packing, by which means we were enabled to transport
them to Yambuya without damage.
Messrs. John Edgington & Co., of Duke Street,
London, took charge of our tents, and made them out
of canvas dipped in a preservative of sulphate of copper,
which preserved them for three years. Notwithstanding
their exposure to three hundred days of rain, for the
first time in my experience in Africa I possessed a tent
PURCHASES FOE USE OF THE RELIEF EXPEDITION. 39
which, after arrival at Zanzibar in 1889, was well able
to endure two hundred days more of rain.
Messrs. Fortnum & Mason, of Piccadilly, packed up
forty carrier loads of choicest provis.onr . Every article
was superb, the tea retained its flavour to the last, the
coffee was of the purest Mocha, the Liebig Company's
CAPTAIN NELSON
Extract was of the choicest, and the packing of all was
excellent.
I need not enumerate what else was purchased. Four
expeditions into Africa, with my old lists of miscellanea
before me, enabled me to choose the various articles,
and in Sir Francis de Winton and Captain Grant Elliott
I had valuable assistants who would know what
40
IN DAKKEST AFRICA.
magazines to patronize, and who could check the
deliveries.
Colonel Sir Francis de Win ton was my successor on
the Congo, and he gave me gratuitously and out of
pure friendship the benefit of his great experience, and
his masterly knowledge of business to assist me in the
LIEUTENANT STAIRS.
despatch of the various businesses connected with the
expedition, especially in answering letters, and selecting
out of the hundreds of eager applicants for membership
a few officers to form a staff.
The first selected was Lieutenant W. Grant Stairs, of
the Royal Engineers, who had applied by letter. The
concise style and directness of the application appealed
SELECTION OF MY OFFICERS.
41
strongly in his favour. We sent for him, and after a
short interview enlisted him on condition that he could
obtain leave of absence. Lord Wolseley kindly granted
leave.
The next was Mr. William Bonny, who, having failed
in his epistolary ventures on former expeditions, thought
MR. WILLIAM BONNY.
the best way was to present himself in person for
service in any capacity. The gentleman would not
take a mild negative. His breast was covered with
medals. They spoke eloquently, though dumb, for his
merits. The end of it was Mr. Bonny was engaged as
medical assistant, he having just left service in a
hospital of the A.M.D.
42 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
The third was Mr. John Rose Troup, who had per-
formed good service on the Congo. He was intimate
with Swahili, the vernacular of Zanzibar. He was not
dainty at work, was exact and methodical in preserving
accounts. Mr. Troup was engaged.
The fourth volunteer who presented himself was
MB. A. J MOCNTENEY JEPHSON.
Major Edmund Musgrave Barttelot, of the 7th Fusileers.
He was accompanied by an acquaintance of mine who
spoke highly of him. What passed at the interview will
*- O */ JL
be heard later on. After a few remarks he was also
engaged.
The fifth was Captain R. H. Nelson, of Methuen's
Horse, fairly distinguished in Zulu campaigns. There
A ROYAL LETTER. 43
was merit in his very face. Captain Nelson agreed to
sign the articles of enlistment.
Our next volunteer was Mr. A. J. Mounteney Jephson,
inexperienced as yet in foreign travel, and quite un-
accustomed to " roughing " in wilds. On some members
of the Committee Mr. Jephson made the impression
that he was unfitted for an expedition of this kind,
being in their opinion of too " high class." But the
Countess de Noailles made a subscription in his favour
to the Belief Fund of 1,000, an argument that the
Committee could not resist, and Mr, Jephson signed the
articles of agreement with unshaken nerves. Poor
young Jephson ! he emerged out of Africa after various
severe trials which are herein related.
One of the latest to apply, and when the list was
about to be closed, was Mr. James S. Jameson. He
had travelled in Mashona and Matabele lands in South
Africa to collect trophies of the wild chase, to study
birds, and to make sketches. He did not appear re-
markably strong. We urged that, but he as quickly
defended his slight appearance, and argued that as he
had already spent a long time in Africa his experience
disproved our fears. Besides, he was willing to sub-
scribe 1,000 for the privilege of membership, and do
faithful and loyal service, as though it was indispensable
for the Expedition to emoloy him. Mr. Jameson was
firm, and subscribed to the articles.
We were in the full swing of preparations to meet
the necessities of the overland march from Zanzibar,
east to the Victoria Nyanza, when, as will be shown by
the tenor of the following letter, it became necessary
to reconsider our route.
" Palais de Bruxelles,
"DEAR MR. STANLEY, " 7th January, 1887.
" The Congo State has nothing to gain by the Expedition for the
relief of Emm Pasha passing through its territory. The King has
suggested this road merely so as to lend your services to the Expedition,
which it would be impossible for him to do were the Expedition to
proceed by the Eastern coast. According to your own estimate, the
Expedition pro?eeding by the Eastern coast would occupy about eighteen
months. His Majesty considers that he would be failing in his duty
towards the State were he to deprive it of your services, especially as the
latter will be certainly needed before the expiration of this lapse of time.
44 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
"If the Expedition proceeds by the Congo the State will promise to
show it all good will. The State likewise gratuitously places at the
disposal of the Expedition the whole of its naval stock, inasmuch as will
allow the working arrangements of its own administration, which it i,
above all, desirous of ensuring, as you know. The Stanley is the largest
steamer on the Hpper Congo. We are forwarding a second one by the
mail of the 15th inst , and we will hasten as much as possible the
launching of this steamer at Stanley Pool ; she will be a valuable and
much needed adjunct to our flotilla. In the meanwhile the mission
steamer Peace would no doubt gratuitously effect certain transports.
" >hould the Expedition desire it, we would facilitate the recruiting of
Bangala; we are very pleased with the latter, as they are excellent
soldiers, and do not fear the Arabs like the Zanzibaris.
"You will have remarked that the official documents, published this
week in Berlin, limit the territory of Zanzibar to a narrow strip of Ian I
along the seashore. Beyond this strip the entire territory is German.
If the Germans allow the Expedition to cross their territory, the Zanzi-
baris would be precisely as on the Congo, on foreign Foil.
" With kind regards, I am, dear Mr. Stanley,
" Yours very truly,
" COJITE DE PORCHGRAVE."
That this was not a light matter to be hastily decided
will be evident by the following note which was sent me
by Sir William Mackinnon :
" Western Club, Glasgow,
" MY DEAR STANLEY, " ^nuary Uh, 1887.
" I had a pleasant short letter from the King showing how anxious
he is the Congo route should be taken, and how unwilling to allow a
break in the continuity of your connection with the Congo State, a-* he
considers you a pillar of the State. He asks me to banish (?) any diver-
gent sentiments, and get all parties to agree to the Congo route. I have
explained fully all that has been done and is doing, and the difficulties
in the way of cancelling existing engagemen f s, and get the authorities,
home and Egyptian and the Sultan of Zanzibar, to acquiesce in making
such a change I also mentioned the great additional charge involved
by sending 600 men, even if the Sultan should consent to their going
from Zanzibar to the Congo and bringing them back.
" I promised, however, to ascertain whether all interested in the presei.t
arrangements would agree in taking the Congo route.
In my diary of January 5th I find written briefly
the heads of businesses despatched this day.
As suggested by Mackinnon, who has been written
to by King Leopold upon the subject of the Congo
route, I saw Sir Percy Anderson, and revealed the
King's desire that the Expedition should proceed vid
Congo. I was requested to state what advantages the
Congo route gave, and replied :
THE KING OF THE BELGIANS AND THE CONGO ROUTE. 45
1st. Certainty of reaching Emin.
2nd. Transport up the Congo River by state steamers
to a point 320 geographical miles from Lake Albert.
3rd. Allaying suspicion of Germans that underlying
our acts were political motives.
4th. Allaying alleged fears of French Government
that our Expedition would endanger the lives of French
Missionaries.
5th. If French Missionaries were endangered, then
English Missionaries would certainly share their fate.
6th. Greater immunity from the desertion of the
Zanzibaris who were fickle in the neighbourhood of
Arab settlements.
Lord Iddesleigh writes me that the French ambassador
has been instructed to inform him that if the Emin
Pasha Relief Expedition proceeds by a route east of the
Victoria Nyanza it will certainly endanger the lives of
their Missionaries in Uganda. He suggests that I
consider this question.
Visited Admiralty, inquired of Admiral Sullivan
respecting the possibility of Admiralty supplying
vessel to carry Expedition to Congo. He said if
Government ordered it would be easy, if not, im-
possible.
Wrote to the King urging him to acquaint me how
far his assistance would extend in transport on the
Ufper Congo.
January 8th. Received letters from the King. He
lays claim to my services. Offers to lend whole of his
naval stock for transport except such as may be necessary
for uses of administration. Wired to Mackinnon that
I felt uneasy at the clause ; that it was scarcely
compatible with the urgency required. Colonel de
Winton wrote to the same effect.
Effects of Expedition are arriving by many cwts.
De Winton worked with me until late in the
night.
January 9th, 1887. Colonel J. A. Grant, Colonel Sir
F. de Winton, and myself sat down to consider His
48 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
Majesty's letter, and finally wrote a reply requesting he
would graciously respond with greater definiteness
respecting quantity of transport and time for which
transport vessels will be granted as so many matters
depend upon quick reply, such as hire of Soudanese,
detention of mail steamer for shipment of ammunition,
etc. We therefore send special messenger
January Wth, 1887. De Win ton visited Foreign
Office and was promised as soon as possible to attend to
the detention of mail steamer and Government transport
round the Cape of Good Hope.
Messrs. Gray, Dawes & Co write Postmaster-General
willing to detain Zanzibar mail steamer at Aden to
wait Navarino, which sails from London on the
20th with the ammunition and officers. I overtake
Navarino at Suez after settling matters of Expedition
in Egypt.
January 12th. Answer arrived last night. Meeting
was called by Honourable Guy Dawnay, Colonel Sir
Lewis Pelly, Colonel Sir F. de Winton and self. The
answer as regards Congo route being satisfactory was
decided upon, and this has now been adopted unani-
mously.
Was notified at 2 p.m by the Earl of Iddesleigh that
he would see me at 6 p.m. But at 3.13 p.m. the Earl
died suddenly from disease of the heart.
January 1 3th. Foreign office note received from Sir
J. Pauncefote transmitting telegram from Sir E. Baring,
also letters concerning Admiralty transport. No help
from Admiralty.
Goods arriving fast. Will presently fill my house.
Went down with Baroness Burdett-Coutts to Guildhall,
arriving there 12.45p.m. I received Freedom of City
of London, and am called youngest citizen. Afterwards
lunched at Mansion House, a distinguished party
present, and affair most satisfactory.
Telegraphed to Brussels to know if Friday convenient
to King. Keply, " Yes at 9.30 a.m."
Janwiry lAth. Crossed over Channel last niglit
towards Brussels via Ostend to see King Leopold. Saw
PREPARATORY DETAILS OF THE RELIEF EXPEDITION. 47
King and gave my farewell. He was very kind. Left
for London in evening at 8 p.m.
Telegram arrived from Sandringham requesting
visit.
January 1 5th. Sir Percy Anderson requested inter-
view.
Mr. Joseph Thomson at this late hour has been
writing to Geographical Society wanting to go with
Expedition.
Arranged with Ingham to collect Congo carriers. He
goes out shortly.
Telegraphed Zanzibar to recall rice carriers from
Mpwapwa. This will cost 2,500 rupees more.
Wrote some days ago to the donor of the Peace
Mission Steamer on the Congo requesting loan of her
for the relief of Emin Pasha. Received the following
quaint reply :
" DEAR ME. STANLEY, " Leeds > January 15th, 1887.
" I have much regard for you personally, although I cannot, dare not,
sanction all your acts.
" I am very sorry if I cannot give assent to your request ; but I fully
believe you will be no sufferer by the circumstance of not having the
s.s. Peace. Yesterday I was able to come to a decision.
" Mr. Baynes, of the Baptist Missionary Society, Holborn, will, he
hopes, make to you any communication he judges proper. If you have
any reverential regard for ' the Man of Sorrows,' the ' King of Peace '
may He mercifully preserve and save your party.
" I have no doubt of the safety of Emin till his work is done. I
believe he will be brought through this trial in perfect safety. God
seems to have given you a noble soul (covers for the moment, if on j our
sad sin and mistakes), and I should like you should ' repent and believe
the Gospel' with real sense, and live hereafter in happiness, light, and
joy for ever. Here delay in you is more dangerous than delay for Emin.
" Your faithful friend,
"(Signed) HUBERT ARTHINGTON."
January 16th. Colonel J. A. Grant offered to arrange
with Mr. ' J. S. Keltic, Editor of Nature, to discuss Mr.
Thomson's offer.
Letters accumulate by scores. All hands employed
answering.
January 17th. Wrote Sir Percy Anderson would call
Wednesday 2 p.m. Correspondence increases.
Mr. Joseph Thomson's offer discussed. Mr. J. S.
48 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
Keltie is to write to him privately decision of com-
mittee.
Arranged with G. S. Mackenzie about Zanzibar
matters. He despatched two telegrams. General
Brackenbury wrote about coal being furnished re-
quiring Treasury sanction.
January I8th. Worked off morning's business.
Travelled to Sandringham with Colonel de Winton to
see His Royal Highness. With African map before us
gave short lecture to their Eoyal Highnesses respecting
route proposed to reach Emin Pasha. Had a very
attentive audience.
January 19th. Sir William Mackinnon mustered hk
friends at the Burlington Hotel at a farewell banquet to
me.
Have said " good-bye " to a host of friends to-day.
January 20th. The s.s. Navarino sailed this afternoon
carrying goods of Expedition and officers. Lieutenant
Stairs, Captain Nelson, and Mr. Mounteney Jephson.
Mr. William Bonny started from my rooms with black
boy Baruti to Fenchurch Station at 8 a.m. Arriving
there he leaves Baruti after a while and proceeds to
Tower of London ! He says that returning to station
at 2 p.m. he found boat had gone. He then w r ent to
Gray, Dawes & Co., shipping agents, and is discouraged
to find that the matter cannot be mended. Baruti
found deserted in Fenchurch Station, very hungry and
cold. Colonel J. A. Grant finds him and brings him
to me.
January 2lst. Despatch Mr. Bonny by rail to Ply-
mouth to overtake a steamer bound for India and
instruct him to debark at Suez with boy and await me.
Left London at 8.5 p.m. for Egypt. Quite a crowd
collected to take a final shake of the hands and to bid
me a kindly " God speed."
CHAPTER II.
EGYPT AND ZANZIBAR.
Surgeon T. H. Parkc Views of Sir Evelyn Baring, Nubar Pasha Pro-
fessor Schweinfurth and Dr. Junker on the Emm Relief Expedition
Details relating to Emin Pasha and his Province -General Grenfell
and the ammunition Breakfast with Khedive Tewfik: message to
Emin Pasha Departure for Zanzibar Description of Mombasa
town Visit to the Sultan of Zanzibar Letter to Emin Pasha sent
by messenger through Uganda Arrangements with Tippoo Till
Emin Pasha's Ivory Mr. Mackenzie, Sir John Pender and Sir James
Anderson's assistance to the Relief Expedition.
January 27th, 1887. Arrived at Alexandria 6 A.M. iss?.
Surgeon T. H. Parke of the A.M.D. came to my hotel Jan - 27
and applied for the position of surgeon to the Expe- A ^" n
dition. It was the one vacancy not yet filled to my
satisfaction. I considered it a Godsend, though I
appeared distant, as I had had two most unpleasant
experiences with medical men, both of whom were
crotchetty, and inconsistent in England. An extremely
handsome young gentleman diffident somewhat but
very prepossessing. To try if he were in earnest I said,
" If you care to follow me to Cairo, I will talk further
with you. I have not the time to argue with you here."
Left Alexandria at 10 A.M. for Cairo. At the station
I met Sir Evelyn Baring, whom I had read of in Gordon's
journals. We drove to Sir Evelyn's house and was
told in his straightforward and clearest manner that
there was a hitch somewhere. The Khedive and Nubar
Pasha, the Prime Minister, were doubtful as to the
wisdom of the Congo route. Professor Schweinfurth
and Dr. Junker had both been struck with consternation,
and by their manner had expressed that the idea was
absurd.
VOL. I. E
50
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887
Ian. 27
Cairo-
" Well, Sir Evelyn," I said, " do you not think that
there are as clever men in England as Messrs. Schwein-
furth and Junker ? On the Relief Committee we have
Colonel James Augustus Grant companion of Speke.
Colonel Sir Francis de Win ton, late Administrator
Geheral of the Congo, Colonel Sir Lewis Pelly late
SURGEON PARKE, A.M.D.
Political Agent at Zanzibar, the Honourable Guy
Dawnay of the War Office, Sir John Kirk late Consul-
General at Zanzibar, the Rev. Horace Waller and
several other distinguished and level-headed men.
Nothing has been settled without the concurrence and
assent of the Foreign Office. We have considered
SIB EVELYN BARINGS VIEWS ON THE EXPEDITION, 51
everything, and I have come thus far resolved to carry
the project out as the committee and myself have agreed."
And then I gave Sir Evelyn the pros and cons of the
routes, which satisfied him. We then drove to the
Prime Minister, Nubar Pasha, and the same explanations
had to be entered into with him. Nubar, with a kindly
NUBAR PASHA.
benevolent smile, deferred to Sir Evelyn's superior
judgment. Nubar assented to the wisdom and discretion
of the change, and as a reward I was invited to break-
fast for the morrow.
January 28th, Cairo. I breakfasted with Nubar
Pasha. He introduced me to Mason Bey the circum-
1887.
Jan. 27.
Cairo.
5^ IN DARKEST AFRICA.
iss?. navigator of Lake Albert in 1877, Madame Nubar
Jan. 28. anc [ three daughters, Tigrane Pasha, his son-in-law,
Cairo. j^ r j? ane? formerly Secretary of Legation at Brussels.
During breakfast Nubar Pasha conversed upon many
things, principally Egypt, Soudan, Africa and Gordon.
Of Gordon he is clearly no admirer. He accredits the
loss of the Soudan to him. His views of Baker were that
he was a fighter an eager pioneer a man of great
power.
Showed map to Nubar after breakfast. He examined
the various routes carefully, and was convinced the
Congo route was the best. He proposes to write
instructions to Emin to return to Egypt on the ground
that Egypt cannot afford to retain the Soudan under
present circumstances. He permits us the use of the
Egyptian Flag as the banner of the Expedition. He
says he would like to see Emin return with as much
ivory as possible and bringing his Makrakas with him.
Should any ivory be brought out he will lay claim to
some of the money on behalf of the Egyptian Govern-
ment because of the 1 0,000 furnished by it. Uniforms
are being ordered for Emin Pasha and principal officers,
for which the Relief Fund will have to pay. Rank and
pay due to each officer assured.
I saw Schweinfurth and Junker, who have been con-
sidered experts here, and I have had a long and
interesting conversation, the pith of which I here
embody.
Schweinfurth and Junker, it seems, had formed the
curious idea that because the Expedition was to be
armed with several hundred Remingtons and a machine
gun of the latest invention, it was to be an offensive
force conducted after strict military rules.
If they had reflected at all the very title of the
Expedition ought to have warned them that they were
astray ; the character of the people who subscribed the
major portion of the fund ought to have still more
assured them that their conception of the Expedition
was wide of the mark. It is the relief of Emin Pasha
that is the object of the Expedition, the said relief
CONVERSATION WITH DR. JUNKER. 53
consisting of ammunition in sufficient quantity to iss?,
enable him to withdraw from his dangerous position in Jan * 28 *
Central Africa in safety, or to hold his own if he decides Cairb *
to do so for such length of time as he may see fit.
Considering the quality of the escort, being mainly
Zanzibaris or freed slaves, it would be rash to expect too
much from them. It is already known in Zanzibar that
Uganda is hostile, that Mwanga massacred some sixty of
the followers of Bishop Hannington, that the Masai
route has its dangers, that Karagwe is tributary to
Mwanga, that the Wahha are numerous and aggressive,
that Euanda has never yet been penetrated, that
beyond a certain line whether on the Masai route or the
Karagwe route there is certain danger ; and no matter
with what cheerfulness they would assert at Zanzibar
their readiness to defy all and every belligerent,
African travellers remember how weak they are
proved to be when in actual presence of danger.
Assuming, however, that this band of 600 Zanzibaris
were faithful, consider their inexperience of these new
rifles, their wild, aimless, harmless firing, their want of
discipline and tone, their disposition to be horrified at
sight of the effects of fighting remember that in
reality they are only porters arid do not pretend to be
warriors and you will see how very unequal such men
are to the duties of defending munitions of war in the
face of an enemy. It was only by stratagem that I
secured their services for the desperate work of dis-
covering the issue of the great river along which we
had travelled with Tippu-Tib, when that now famous
Arab deserted me in mid- Africa. It was only that
there were no other means of escape that enabled me
with their help to obtain a quiet retreat from savage
Ituru. In many other instances they proved that when
menaced with instant death they could be utilized to
assist in the preservation of their own lives ; but to
expect them to march faithfully forward to court the
dangers of fighting with the seductions of Unyamwezi
and Zanzibar in their rear would be too much. In this
Expedition we cannot turn aside as formerly in presence
54 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
i87. of a pronounced hostility and seek more peaceful
Jan. 28. coun ^ r j es j but our objective point must be reached, and
iro * risk must be run, and the ammunition must be de-
posited at the feet of Emin Pasha. Therefore to arm
these people with Eemingtons or machine guns is not
enough you must cut off their means of retreat, allow
no avenue of escape then they will stand together like
men, and we may expect the object ol the Expedition to
be attained, even if we have now and again to meet
bows and spears or guns.
Kegarding Emin Pasha my information is various.
From Dr. Junker I learn that Emin Pasha is tall,*
chin and exceedingly short-sighted ; that he is a great
linguist, Turkish, Arabic, German, French, Italian and
English being familiar to him ; to these languages may
be added a few of the African dialects. He does not
seem to have impressed Junker with his fighting
qualities, though as an administrator, he is sagacious,
tactful and prudent. His long isolation seems to have
discouraged him. He says, " Egypt does not care for us
and has forgotten us ; Europe takes no interest in what
we do." He is German by birth, and is about forty-
seven years old.
His force is distributed among eight stations, from
200 to 300 men in each, say about 1,800 in all. The
garrisons of the four northernmost stations were
discontented and mutinous at last accounts. They
answered Emin's advice to consolidate with reproaches ;
his suggestions that they should all withdraw from the
equatorial province via Zanzibar, were responded to by
accusations that he intended only to sell them to
Zanzibar as slaves.
: Junker cannot give an exact figure of the force itself,
or of the Egyptians or clerks or Dongolese with Emin,
but being questioned closely as to details replied that
the approximate number of those likely to return with
the Expedition would be as follows :
White Egyptian Officers, 10 ; non-commissioned
* We consequently bade the tailor make long pantaloons, and they
were quite six inches too long.
INFORMATION REGARDING EMIN PASHA.
55
(black), 15; white clerks (Copts), 20; blacks from ISST.
Dongola, Wady Haifa, etc., 300, = men 345. White- Jan ''
women, 22; blackwomen, 137; = women 159, children
of officers, 40; soldiers' children, 60 = children 100.=
Total 604.
Besides these the native troops on perceiving a
THE KHEDIVE TEWFIK
general withdrawal, may also desire to return with their
friends and comrades to Egypt. It is impossible to state
what may be the effect on their minds of the appearance
of the Relief Expedition. The decision of Emm Pasha,
to remain or withdraw, will probably influence the
majority.
56 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. I expect my men from Wady Haifa to be here this
Jan. 28. a ft ernoO n. They will be armed, equipped and rationed
at the Citadel, and on Thursday will accompany me to
Suez. The Navarino is supposed to arrive at Suez the
day following, when we will embark and be off.
Received telegrams from London. Reports from a
well-known person at Cairo has reached newspapers
that Emin Pasha had fought his way through Uganda
after some desperate struggles, and that the Egyptian
Government had placed difficulty in way of Expedition.
Replied that such facts were unknown in Cairo.
February 1st. Saw Sir Evelyn Baring at 10.45 A.M.
Accompanied him to Khedive Tewfik. His Highness
is most amiable and good-looking. Fine palace within,
abundance of room, a host ol attendants, &c. Am
invited to breakfast with Khedive at noon to-morrow.
Taken later by Sir Evelyn to General Grenfell's office
respecting suggestion made to me last night, at
General Stephenson's by Valentine Baker Pasha, that I
must assure myself that the Remington ammunition
furnished by Egyptian Government was sound, as his
experience of it was that 50 per cent, was bad. " You
must think then," said he, " if the ammunition is so
poor already what it will be about a year hence when
you meet Emin, after humidity of tropics."
General Grenfell said he had already tested the
ammunition, and would make another trial, since
Valentine Baker Pasha entertained such an opinion of it.
February 2nd. Breakfast with Khedive Tewfik. He
protests his patriotism, and loves his country. He is
certainly most unaffected and genial.
Before leaving Khedive, the following Firman or
High Order, was given to me open with the English
translation.
TRANSLATION.
Copy of a High Arabic Order to Emin Pasha, dated
8th, Gamad Awal 1304, (1st February, 1887. No. 3).
" We have already thanked you and your officers for
the plucky and successful defence of the Egyptian
LETTER FROM THE KHEDIVE TO EMIN PASHA. 57
Equatorial provinces entrusted to your charge, and for iss?.
the firmness you have shown with your fellow-officers Kcb - *
under your command. Cairo -
And we therefore have rewarded you in raising your
rank to that of Lewa Pasha (Brigadier-General). We
have also approved the ranks you thought necessary to
give to the officers under your charge. As I have already
written to you on the 29 November, 1886, No. 31, and
it must have reached you with other documents sent by
His Excellency Nubar Pasha, President of the Council of
Ministers.
And, since it is our sincerest desire to relieve you with
your officers and soldiers from the difficult position you
are in, our Government have made up their mind in
the manner by which you may be relieved with officers
and soldiers from your troubles.
And as a mission for the relief has been formed under
the command of Mr. Stanley, the famous and experienced
African Explorer, whose reputation is well known
throughout the world ; and as he intends to set out on
his Expedition with all the necessary provisions for you
so that he may bring you here with officers and men to
Cairo, by the route which Mr. Stanley may think proper
to take. Consequently we have issued this High Order
to you, and it is sent to you by the hand of Mr. Stanley
to let you know what has been done, and as soon as it
will reach you, I charge you to convey my best wishes
to the officers and men and you are at full liberty with
regard to your leaving for Cairo or your stay there with
officers and men.
Our Government has given a decision for paying your
salaries with that of the officers and men.
Those who wish to stay there from the officers and
men they may do it on their own responsibility, and
they may not expect any assistance from the Govern-
ment.
Try to understand the contents well, and make it
well-known to all the officers and men, that they may
be aware of what they are going to do.
(Signed) MEHEMET TEWFIK."
58 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
IBS?. In the evening Tigrane Pasha brought to me Nubar
Feb. 2. p as } ia ' s the Prime Minister letter of recall to Emin.
' Cairo< It was read to me and then sealed.
We stand thus, then ; Junker does not think Emin will
abandon the Province ; the English subscribers to the
fund hope he will not, but express nothing ; they leave
it to Emin to decide ; the English Government would
prefer that he would retire, as his Province under present
circumstances is almost inaccessible, and certainly he, so
far removed, is a cause of anxiety. The Khedive sends
the above order for Emin to accept of our escort, but
says, " You may do as you please. If you decline our
proffered aid you are not to expect further assistance
from the Government." Nubar Pasha's letter conveys
the wishes of the Egyptian Government which are in
accordance with those of the English Government, as
expressed by Sir Evelyn Baring.
February 3rd. Left Cairo for Suez. At the station
to wish me success were Sir Evelyn and Lady Baring,
Generals Stephenson, Grenfell, Valentine Baker, Abbate
Pasha, Professor Schweinfurth and Dr. Junker. The
latter and sixty-one soldiers (Soudanese) from Wady
Haifa accompanied me. At Zagazig, Surgeon T. H.
Parke, now an enrolled member of the Expedition, joined
me. At Ismailia our party were increased by Giegler
Pasha. At Suez met Mr. James S. Jameson, the
naturalist of the Expedition. Mr. Bonny of the Hospital
Staff Corps, and Baruti, will arrive to-morrow per
Garonne of the Orient line.
February th. Breakfasted with Captain Beyts, Agent
of the British India Steam Navigation Company. At
2 P.M. Capt. Beyts embarked with us on board Rob Roy,
a new steamer just built for him, and we steamed out to
the Suez harbour where the Navarino from London is at
anchor. At 5 P.M., after friendly wishes from Captain
Beyts and my good friend Dr. Junker, to whom I had
become greatly attached for the real worth in him, the
Navarino sailed for Aden.
February Sth. Weather grows warm. Ther. Fah. 74
at 8 A.M. in Captain's cabin. My European servant
ARRIVAL AT MOMBASA. 59
asked me if this was the Red Sea through which we were iss?.
sailing. " Yes," I replied. " Well, sir, it looks more Feb -
like a black sea than a red one, ' was his profound re- Aden *
mark.
February Ylth. Reached Aden at 2 A.M. We now
change steamers. Navarino proceeds to Bombay. The
B.I.S.N. steamer Oriental, takes us to Zanzibar. On
board the latter steamer we met Major Barttelot. Cabled
to Zanzibar following :
" Mackenzie, Zanzibar.
" Your telegram Tery gratifying. Please engage twenty young lads
as officers' servants at lower rate than men. We leave to-day with eight
Europeans, sixty-one Soudanese, two Syrians, thirteen Somalis. Pro-
vision transport steamer accordingly."
The first-class passengers include self, Barttelot, Stairs,
Jephson, Nelson, Parke, Bonny, Count Pfeil, and two
German companions bound for Rufiji River.
February 19 th. Arrived off Lamu at 3 P.M. Soon
after s.s. Baghdad came in with Dr. Lenz, the Austrian
traveller, who had started to proceed to Emin Bey, but
failing, came across to Zanzibar instead. He is on his
way home. Having failed in his purpose, he will blame
Africa and abuse the Congo especially. It is natural
with all classes to shift the blame on others, and I feel
assured Lenz will be no exception.
February 20/A. Arrived at Mombasa. Was told that
a great battle had been fought lately between the Gallas
and Somalis. The former are for the Germans, the latter
are declared enemies to them. We also hear that
Portugal has declared war against Zanzibar, or something
like it.
Best place for commercial depot is on right hand of
northern entrance, first point within harbour ; it is
bluffy, dips sheer down into deep water, with timber
floated along base of bluff, and long-armed derricks on
edge of bluff, steamers might be unloaded and loaded
with ease. Cocoa-nut palms abundant. Good view of
sea from it. If Mombasa becomes an English port-
as I hope it will shortly the best position of new
town would be along face of bluff fronting seaward
60 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. on island just where old Portuguese port is ; a light
railway and some draught mules would land on train
all goods from harbour.
February 2'2nd. Arrived at Zanzibar. Acting Con-
sul-General Holmwood warmly proffered hospitality.
Instructed officers to proceed on board our transport,
B.I.S.N. Co. Madura, and to -take charge of Somalis and
Soudanese, and Mackenzie to disembark forty donkeys
and saddles from Madura route being changed there
was no need for so many animals.
Received compliments from the Sultan of Zanzibar ;
visits from the famous Tippu-Tib, Jaifar, son of Tarya
Topan, his agent, and Kanji the Vakeel of Tarya.
Zanzibar is somewhat changed during my eight years'
absence. There is a telegraphic cable, a tall clock- tower,
a new Sultan's palace, very lofty and conspicuous, with
wide verandahs. The Custom 'House has been enlarged.
General Lloyd Mathews has new barracks for his Mili-
tary Police ; the promenade to Fiddler's grave has been
expanded into a broad carriage-way, which extends to
Sultan's house beyond Mbwenni. There are horses and
carriages, and steam-rollers, and lamp-posts, at convenient
distances, serve to bear oil-lamps to light the road when
His Highness returns to city from a country jaunt.
There are six German war-vessels in port, under
Admiral Knorr, H.B.M.S. Turquoise and Reindeer, ten
merchant steamers, and a few score of Arab dhows, Bag-
galas, Kanjehs, and boats.
February 23rd. Paid what is called a State visit to
His Highness. As a special mark of honour the troops,
under stout General Lloyd Mathews, were drawn up in
two lines, about 300 yards in length. A tolerable mili-
tary band saluted us with martial strains, while several
hundreds of the population were banked behind the
soldiers. The most frequent words I heard as I passed
through with Consul Holmwood were : " Ndio huyu "
" Yes, it is he !" by which I gathered that scattered
among the crowds must have been a large number of my
old followers, pointing me out to their friends.
State visits are nearly always alike. The " Present
VISIT TO THE SULTAN OF ZANZIBAR. 61
arms!" by General Mathews, the martial strains, the mi
large groups of the superior Arabs at the hall porch Feb - 23
the ascent up the lofty flights of stairs the Sultan at Zanzibar<
the head of the stairs the grave bow, the warm clasp,
the salutation word, the courteous wave of the hand to
enter, the slow march towards the throne another cere-
monious inclination all round the Prince taking his
seat, which intimates we may follow suit, the refresh-
ments of sherbet after coffee, and a few remarks about
Europe, and our mutual healths. Then the ceremonious
departure, again the strains of music, Mathews' sonorous
voice at " Present arms !" and we retire from the
scene to doff our London dress-suits, and pack them up
with camphor to preserve them from moths, until we
return from years of travel "Through the Dark Con-
tinent" and from "Darkest Africa."
In thje afternoon, paid the business visit, first pre-
senting the following letter :
" To His HIGHNESS SEYYID BARGHASH BIN SAID,
" Sultan of Zanzibar.
" Burlington Hotel,
" Old Burlington Street, London, W.
" 2$th January, 1887.
" Your Highness,
' I cannot allow another mail to pass without writing to express
to you my grateful appreciation of the kindly response you made to my
telegram in regard to assisting the Expedition, which proceeds under
the leadership of Mr. H. M. Stanley to relieve Emin Pasha. The cor-
diality with which you instructed your officers to assist in selecting the
best men available is indeed a most important service to the Expedition,
and I have reason to know that it has given great satisfaction in
England. Mr. Stanley will reach Zanzibar In about four weeks. He is
full of enthusiasm as the leader of his interesting Expedition, and his
chief reasons for selecting the Congo route are that he may be able to
convey the men your Highness has so kindly assisted him in procuring
without fatigue or risk by sea to the Congo, and up the river in boats in
comparative comfort, and they will arrive within 350 miles of their
destination fresh and vigorous instead of being worn out and jaded by
the fatigue of a long march inland. His services will be entirely devoted
to the Expedition during its progress, and he cannot deviate from its
course to perform service for the Congo State.
" It is probable also he will return by the east coast land route,
and as T know him to be deeply interested in your Highness's prosperity
and welfare, I am sure if he can render any service to Your Highness
during his progress back to the coast, he will do so most heartily. I
have had many conversations with him, and have always found him
most friendly to Your Highness's interests, and I believe also the
62 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. confidence of our mutual good friend. I pray you in these circum-
Feb 23. stances to communicate freely with Mr. Stanley on all points as freely
as if I had the honour of being there to receive the communications
/anzibar> myself.
" With the repeated assurance of my hearty sympathy in all the affairs
that concern Your Highness's interests.
" T remain,
" Your very obedient servant and friend,
" W. MACKINNON."
We then entered heartily into our business ; how abso-
lutely necessary it was that he should promptly enter
into an agreement with the English within the limits
assigned by Anglo-German treaty. It would take too
long to describe the details of the conversation, but I
obtained from him the answer needed.
" Please God we shall agree. When you have got the papers ready we
shall read and sign without further delay and the matter will be over."
At night, wrote the following letter to Emin Pasha,
for transmission to-morrow by couriers overland, who
will travel through Uganda into Unyoro secretly.
" To His EXCELLENCY EMIN PASHA,
" Governor of the Equatorial Provinces.
" H. B. Majesty's" Consulate. Zanzibar.
" DEAR SIR, " February 23rd, 1887.
" I have the honour to inform you that the Government of His High-
ness 1he Khedive of Egypt, upon the receipt of your urgent letters
soliciting aid and instructions, have seen fit to depute me to equip an
Expedition to proceed to Wadelai to convey such aid as they think you
require, and to assist you in other ways agreeably with the written
instructions which have been delivered to me for you.
" Having been pretty accurately informed of the nature of your neces-
sities from the perusal of your letters to the Egyptian Government, the
Expedition has been equipped in such a manner as may be supposed to
meet all your wants. As you will gather from the letters of His High-
ness and the Prime Minister of Egypt to you, and which I bring with
me, all that could possibly be done to satisfy yonr needs has been done
most heartily. From the translation of the letters delivered to me, I
perceive that they will give you immense satisfaction. Over sixty
soldiers from Wady Haifa have been detailed to accompany me in order
that they may be able to encourage the soldiers under your command,
and confirm the letters. We also march under the Egyptian standard.
" The Expedition includes 600 Zanzibari natives, and probably as
many Arab followers from Central Africa.
" We sail to-morrow from Zanzibar to the Congo, and by the 18th June
next we hope to be at the head of navigation on the Upper Congo.
From the point where we debark to the southern end of Lake Albert is a
distance of 320 miles in a straight line, say 500 miles by road, which will
LETTEE WRITTEN BY ME TO EMIN PASHA. 63
probably occupy us fifty days to march to the south-western or southern 1887
end, in the neighbourhood of Kavalli. p eb 23
" If your stearjiers are in that neighbourhood, you will be able to leave
word perhaps at Kavalli, or in its neighbourhood, informing me of your
whereabouts.
" The reasons which have obliged me to adopt this route for the con-
veyance of your stores are various, but principally political. I am also
impressed with the greater security of that route and the greater
certainty of success attending the venture with less trouble to the
Expedition and less annoyan* e 1o the natives. Mwanga is a formidable
opponent to the south and south-east. The Wakedi and other warlike
natives to the eastward of Fatiko oppose a serious obstacle, the natives
of Kishakka and Ruanda have never permitted strangers to enter their
country. En route I do not anticipate much trouble, because there are
no powerful chiefs in the Congo basin capable of interrupting our
march.
" Besides abundance of ammunition for your needs, official letters from
the Egyptian Government, a heavy mail from your numerous friends and
admirers, I bring with me personal equipments for yourself and officers
suitable to the rank of each.
'* Trusting that I shall have the satisfaction of finding you well and
safe, and that nothing will induce you to rashly venture your life and
liberty in the neighbourhood of Uganda, without the ample means of
causing yourself and men to be respected which I am bringing to you,
" I beg you to believe me,
" Yours very faithfully,
"(Signed) HENRY M. STANLEY."
February Zkth and 25th. On arriving at Zanzibar, I
found our Agent, Mr. Edmund Mackenzie, had managed
everything so well that the Expedition was almost ready
for embarkation. The steamer Madura, of the British
India Steam Navigation Company, was in harbour, pro
visioned and watered for the voyage. The goods for
barter, and transport animals, were on board. There were
a few things to be done, however such as arranging with
the famous Tippu-Tib about our line of conduct towards
one another. Tippu-Tib is a much greater man to-day than
he was in the year 1877, when he escorted my caravan, pre
liminary to our descent down the Congo. He has invested
his hard-earned fortune in guns and powder. Adven
turous Arabs have flocked to his standard, until he is now
an uncrowned king of the region between Stanley Falls
and Tanganika Lake, commanding many thousands of
men inured to fighting and wild Equatorial life. If I dis-
covered hostile intentions, my idea was to give him a
wide berth; for the ammunition I had to convey to
Emin Pasha, if captured and employed by him, would en-
64 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. danger the existence of the infant State of the Congo, and
imperil all our hopes. Between Tippu-Tip and Mwanga,
Zanzibar. jj n g o Ug ano X there was only a choice of the frying-
pan and the fire. Tippu-Tib was the Zubehr of the
Congo Basin just as formidable if made an enemy, as
the latter would have been at the head of his slaves.
Between myself and Gordon there had to be a difference
in dealing with our respective Zubehrs ; mine had no
animus against me personally ; my hands were free, and
my movements unfettered. Therefore, with due caution,
I soundod Tippu-Tib on the first day, and found him
fully prepared for any eventuality to fight me, or be
employed by me. I chose the latter, and we proceeded
to business. His aid was not required to enable me to
reach Emin Pasha, or to show the road. There are four
good roads to Wadelai from the Congo ; one of them
was in Tippu-Tib's power, the remaining three are clear
of him and his myriads. But Dr. Junker informed me
that Emin Pasha possessed about 75 tons of ivory.
So much ivory would amount to 60,000, at 8s. per Ib.
The subscription of Egypt to the Emin Pasha Fund is
large for her depressed finance. In this quantity of
ivory we had a possible means of recouping her Treasury
with a large sum left towards defraying expenses, and
perhaps leaving a handsome present for the Zanzibari
survivors.
Why not attempt the carriage of this ivory to the
Congo ? Accordingly, I wished to engage Tippu-Tib and
his people to assist me in conveying the ammunition to
Emin Pasha, and on return to carry this ivory. After a
good deal of bargaining I entered into a contract with
him, by which he agreed to supply 600 carriers at 6
per loaded head each round trip from Stanley -Falls to
Lake Albert and back. Thus, if each carrier carries
70 Ibs. weight of ivory, one round trip will bring to the
Fund 13,200 nett at Stanley Falls.
On the conclusion of this contract, which was entered
into in presence of the British Consul-General, I
broached another subject in the name of His Majesty
King Leopold with Tippu-Tib. Stanley Falls station
NEGOTIATIONS WITH TIPPU-TIB. 65
was established by me in December 1883. Various MB?.
Europeans have since commanded this station, and Mr. Veb '^-
Binnie and Lieut. Wester of the Swedish Army had Zanzibar -
succeeded in making it a well-ordered and presentable
station. Captain Deane, his successor, quarrelled with
the Arabs, and at his forced departure from the scene
set fire to the station. The object for which the station
was established was the prevention of the Arabs from
pursuing their devastating career below the Falls, not
so much by force as by tact, or rather the happy com-
bination of both. By the retreat of the officers of the
State from Stanley Falls, the floodgates were opened
and the Arabs pressed down river. Tippu-Tib being of
course the guiding spirit of the Arabs west of Tanganika
Lake, it was advisable to see how far his aid might be
secured to check this stream of Arabs from destroying
the country. After the interchange of messages by
cable with Brussels on the second day of my stay at
Zanzibar I signed an engagement with Tippu-Tib by
which he was appointed Governor of Stanley Fulls at a
regular salary, paid monthly at Zanzibar, into the British
Consul-General's hands. His duties will be principally
to defend Stanley Falls in the name of the State against
all Arabs and natives. The flag of the station will be
that of the State. At all hazards he is to defeat and
capture all persons raiding territory for slaves, and to
disperse all bodies of men who may be justly suspected
of violent designs. He is to abstain from all slave traffic
below the Falls himself, and to prevent all in his com-
mand trading in slaves. In order to ensure a faithful
performance of his engagement with the State, an Euro-
pean officer is to be appointed Eesident at the Falls.
On the breach of any article in the contract being
reported, the salary is to cease.
Meantime, while I was engaged with these negotia-
tions, Mr. Mackenzie had paid four months' advance
pay $12,415 to 620 men and boys enlisted in the
Eelief Expedition, and as fast as each batch of fifty men
was satisfactorily paid, a barge was hauled alongside and
the men were duly embarked, and a steam launch towed
VOL. I. F
66 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. the barge to the transport. By 5 P.M. all hands were
aboard, and the steamer moved off to a more distant
anchorage. By midnight Tippu-Tib and his people and
every person connected with the Expedition was on
board, and at daybreak next day, the 25th February,
the anchor was lifted, and we steamed away towards the
Cape of Good Hope.
So far there had not been a hitch in any arrangement.
Difficulties had been smoothed as if by magic. Every-
body had shown the utmost sympathy, and been prompt
with the assistance required. The officers of the Expe-
dition were kept fully employed from morning to
evening at laborious tasks connected with the repacking
of the ammunition for Emin Pasha's force.
Before concluding these entries, I ought to mention
the liberal assistance rendered to the Eelief Expedition
by Sir John Fender, K.C.M.G., and the Eastern Tele-
graph Company. All my telegrams from Egypt, Aden
and Zanzibar, amounting in the aggregate to several
hundred words were despatched free, and as each word
from Zanzibar to Europe ordinarily costs eight shillings
per word, some idea of the pecuniary value of the favour
conferred may be obtained. On my return from Africa
this great privilege was again granted, and as I received
a score of cablegrams per day for several days, and
answers were expected, I should speedily have paid
dearly for the fortunate rescue of Emin Pasha, and most
probably my stirring career had ended in the Bank-
ruptcy Court had not Sir John Pender and Sir James
Anderson quickly reassured me. Among the contri-
butors to the Belief Fund to a very generous amount
I therefore may fairly place the names of Sir John
Pender and Sir James Anderson in behalf of the Eastern
Telegraph Company. I should also state that they were
prepared to lend me the Telegraph steamer at Zanzibar
to convey my force of carriers and soldiers to the Congo
had there been any difficulty in the way of engaging
the B.I.S.N. Company's s.s. Madura.
CHAPTER III.
BY SEA TO THE CONGO RIVER.
The Sultan of Zanzibar Tippu-Tib and Stanley Falls- On board
s.s. Madura " Shindy "between the Zanzibaris and Soudanese-
Sketches of my various officers Tippu-Tib and Cape Town-
Arrival at the mouth of the Congo River Start up the Congo-
Visit from two of the Executive Committee of the Congo State-
Unpleasant thoughts.
THE following private letter to a friend will explain ISHT.
some things of general interest : March 9 -
Cape ot'
Good Hoj>e.
SS. Madura, March 9th., 1887,
MY DEAR , Near Cape f Good ^P*
Apart from the Press letters which are to be published
for the benefit of the Relief Fund, and which will contain
all that the public ought to know just now, I shall have
somewhat to say to you and other friends.
The Sultan of Zanzibar received me with unusual
kindness, much of which I owe to the introduction of
Mr. William Mackinnon and Sir John Kirk. He pre-
sented me with a fine sword, a shirazi blade I should
say, richly mounted with gold, and a magnificent
diamond ring, which quite makes Tippu-Tib's eyes
water. With the sword is the golden belt of His
Highness, the clasp of which bears his name in Arabic.
It will be useful as a sign, if I come before Arabs,
of the good understanding between the Prince and
myself; and if I reach the Egyptian officers, some of
whom are probably illiterate, they must accept the
sword as a token that we are not traders.
You will have seen by the papers that I have taken
with me sixty-one soldiers Soudanese. My object has
F 2
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. been to enable them to speak for me to the Soudanese
March 9. Q f Equatoria. The Egyptians may affect to disbelieve
Go C od P Hope. firmans and the writing of Nubar, in which case these
Soudanese will be pushed forward as living witnesses of
my commission.
I have settled several little commissions at Zanzibar
PORTRAIT OF TIPPU-TIB.
satisfactorily. One was to get the Sultan to sign the
concessions which Mackinnon tried to obtain a long
time ago. As the Germans have magnificent territory
east of Zanzibar, it was but fair that England should
have some portion for the protection she has accorded
to Zanzibar since 1841. The Germans appeared to
LITTLE COMMISSIONS AT ZANZIBAR. 69
have recognized this, as you may see by the late Anglo- iss?.
German Agreement. France had already obtained an March9 -
immense area in West Africa. All the world had agreed G<SiHope
to constitute the domain of King Leopold, on which he
had spent a million sterling, as the Independent State
of the Congo. Portugal, which is a chronic grumbler,
and does little, and that little in a high-handed, illiberal
manner, has also been graciously considered by the
European Powers ; but England, which had sent out her
explorers, Livingstone, Burton, Speke, Grant, Baker,
Keith Johnston, Thomson, Elton, &c., had obtained
nothing, and probably no people had taken such interest
in the Dark Continent, or had undergone such sacrifices
in behalf of the aborigines, as the English. Her
cruisers for the last twenty years had policed the ocean
along the coast to suppress slave-catching ; her missions
were twenty-two in number, settled between East and
West Africa. This concession that we wished to obtain
embraced a portion of the East African coast, of which
Mombasa and Melindi were the principal towns. For
eight years, to my knowledge, the matter had been
placed before His Highness, but the Sultan's signature
was difficult to obtain.
Arriving at Zanzibar, I saw the Sultan was aging,
and that he had not long to live.* Englishmen could
not invest money in the reserved " sphere of influence "
until some such concessions were signed.
" Please God," said the Sultan, " we shall agree ;
there will be no further doubt about the matter." But
his political anxieties are wearing him fast, and unless
this matter is soon completed it will be too late.
The other affair was with Tippu-Tib. He had actu-
ally in his possession three Krupp shells, unloaded,
which he had brought with him from Stanley Falls, on
the Upper Congo, to Zanzibar, to exhibit to his friends
as the kind of missiles which the Belgians pelted his
settlements with and he was exceedingly wroth, and
nourished a deep scheme of retaliation. It took me
some time to quiet his spasms of resentment. People
* Seyyid Barghash died six months later.
70 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. very furious must be allowed time to vent their anger.
1 9 * When he had poured out his indignation some time, I
Good P Ho P e. quietly asked him if he had finished, saying, in a bland
way, that I knew well how great and powerful he was, etc. ,
and I told him that it was scarcely fair to blame all the
Europeans and King Leopold because an officer at
Stanley Falls had been pleased to heave Krupp shells at
his settlements ; that this trouble had been caused by
the excess of zeal of one man in defending a slave woman
who had sought his protection, in the same way that
Eashid, his nephew, had been carried away by the fury
of youth to defend his rights. The Governor of the
Congo State was absent nearly 1500 miles down the
river, and Tippu-Tib, the owner of the settlements, was
several hundred miles eastward on the way to Zanzibar.
Now I look upon this affair as the result of a match
between one young white man and a young Arab. The
gray heads are absent who would have settled the
trouble without fighting : youths are always " on their
muscle," you know.
" Do you know," I continued, " that that station has
given us a great deal of trouble. We sent Amelot, you
remember. Well, he just left the station without
orders, and died somewhere near Nyangwe ; then the next,
Gleerup, a Swede, followed suit, and travelled across
Africa instead ; then we sent Deane, and for a change
he would have war with the Arabs. King Leopold is
not to blame for all this. It is a difficult thing to get
men who are always wise, and understand thoroughly
what their orders are. If King Leopold had sent Deane
to fight you, he would not have sent him with thirty
men, you may be sure."
Now, look here. He proposes that you try your
hand at governing that station. He will pay you every
month what he would pay an European officer. There
are certain little conditions that you must comply with
before you become Governor."
Tippu-Tib opened his eyes and snapped them rapidly,
as his custom is, and asked, " Me ? "
" Yes, you. You like money ; I offer you money.
AGREEMENTS WITH TIPPU-TIB. 71
You have a grudge against white men being there, mi.
Well, if you do your work rightly there will be no need Marck 9 -
for any white men, except him whom we shall have to
place under you, to see that the conditions are not
broken."
" Well, what are they ? "
" You must hoist the flag of the State. You must
allow a Resident to be with you, who will write your
reports to the King. You must neither trade in slaves,
nor allow anybody else to trade in them below Stanley
Falls. Nor must there be any slave-catching ; you under-
stand. Such trade as you make in ivory, gums, rubber,
cattle, and anything else, you may do as much as you
please. But there is to be no pillaging native property
of any description whatever below your station. A
monthly allowance will be paid into the hands of your
Agent at Zanzibar. Don't answer right away. Go and
discuss it with your friends, and think of what I offer
you. My ship sails on the third day. Give me your
answer to-morrow."
A favourable answer was given, a proper agreement
was drawn up before the Consul-General, and we both
signed.
I made another agreement with him about the en-
gagement of carriers to carry ammunition to Lake
Albert from the Congo. If there is no ivory I shall be
indebted to Tippu-Tib for the sum of 3,600. But
there must be some, as both Emin Pasha and Dr. Junker
declare there is a large store of it. At the same time
I shall not risk the Expedition for the sake of the
ivory.
In consideration of these services which Tippu-Tib
has solemnly contracted to perform, I permitted him
free passage for himself and ninety- six of his kinsmen
from Zanzibar to the Congo, with board included. I
also undertook the responsibility of conveying the
entire party safely to Stanley Falls, thus incurring not
a small expense, but which if faithfully performed will
be amply paid for by the services mentioned in the
articles of agreement. These negotiations with Tippu-
72 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. Tib also ensure for us a peaceful march from the Congo
March 9. ^pQugh hi s territory, a thing that would have been
oodHope. by no means possible without him as his various
hordes of raiders will be widely scattered throughout
the region ; and it is scarcely likely that we should be
allowed to pass in peace, resenting, as they must naturally
do, their late rupture with Deane. Having bound Tippu-
Tib to me I feel somewhat safe against that constant
fear of desertion of the Zanzibaris. No Arab will now
persuade the people to desert, as is their custom when
a white man's Expedition passes near their settlements.
Tippu-Tib dare not countenance such proceedings in
this case.
The Madura is a comfortable steamer. On the
Oriental and Navarino we were uncomfortably crowded.
Tween decks abreast of the boilers is rather a hot place
for the people ; but we have had agreeable weather, and
the men have preferred to stow themselves in the boats,
and among the donkeys, and on deck, to the baking
heat below.
Two hours from Zanzibar, what is called a " shindy "
took place between the Zanzibaris and Soudanese.
For a short time it appeared as though we should have
to return to Zanzibar with many dead and wounded.
It rose from a struggle for room. The Soudanese had
been located directly in the way of the Zanzibaris, who,
being ten times more numerous, required breathing
space. They were all professed Moslems, but no one
thought of their religion as they seized upon firewood
and pieces of planking to batter and bruise each other.
The battle had raged some time before I heard of it.
As I looked down the hatchway the sight was fearful-
blood freely flowed down a score of faces, and ugly
pieces of firewood flew about very lively. A command
could not be heard in that uproar, and some of us
joined in with shillelaghs, directing our attacks upon
the noisiest. It required a mixture of persuasiveness and
sharp knocks to reduce the fractious factions to order,
especially with the Soudanese minority, who are huge
fellows. The Soudanese were marched out of their
I SHINDY' BETWEEN ZANZIBAEIS AND SOUDANESE. 73
place and located aft, and the Zanzibaris had all the
forward half of the ship to themselves. After we had March 9>
wiped the blood and perspiration away I compli-
mented the officers, especially Jephson, Nelson, and
Bonny, for their share in the fray. They had be-
haved most gallantly. The result of the scrimmage
is ten broken arms, fifteen serious gashes with spears
on the face and head, and contusions on shoulders
and backs not worth remark, and several abrasions of
the lower limbs.
Surgeon Parke has been very busy vaccinating the
entire community on board ship. Fortunately I had
procured a large supply of lymph for this purpose,
because of the harsh experience of the past.
We also divided the people into seven companies of
about ninety men each.
I have ordered my Agent to send me 200 loads of
various goods to meet the Expedition at Msalala, south
end of Lake Victoria. They will be sent about October
or November, 1887, arriving at Msalala in February or
March, 1888, because if everything proceeds as I should
wish, we shall be somewhere near there not very long
after that date.
*****
I have been in the company of my officers since 1
left Aden, and I have been quietly observing them. I
will give you a sketch of them as they appear to me
now.
Barttelot is a little too eager, and will have to be
restrained. There is abundance of work in him, and this
quality would be most lovely if it were always according
to orders. The most valuable man to me would be he
who had Barttelot's spirit and " go " in him, and who
could come and ask if such and such a work ought to
be done. Such a course suggests thoughtfulness and
willingness, besides proper respect.
There is a great deal in Mounteney Jephson, though
he was supposed to be effeminate. He is actually fierce
when roused, and his face becomes dangerously set and
fixed. I noted him during the late battle aboard, and
74 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. I came near crying out " Bravo, Jephson ! " though I
h 9> had my own stick, " big as a mast," as the Zanzibaris
uocLHope. sa y ? to wield. It was most gallant and plucky. He
will be either made or marred if he is with this
Expedition long enough.
Captain Nelson is a fine fellow, and without the
ghost of a hobby : he is the same all round, and at all
hours.
Stairs, of the Koyal Engineers, is a splendid fellow,
painstaking, ready, thoughtful, and industrious, and is
an invaluable addition to our staff.
Jameson is still the nice fellow we saw ; there is
not an atom of change in him. He is sociable and
good.
Bonny is the soldier. He is not initiative. He
seems to have been under a martinet's drill.
March IGth, 1887.
At Cape Town, Tippu-Tib, after remarking the pros-
perity and business stir of the city, and hearing its
history from me, said that he formerly had thought all
white men to be fools.
" Keally," I said ; " Why ? "
" That was my opinion."
" Indeed ! and what do you think of them now ? " 1
asked.
" I think they have something in them, and that
they are more enterprising than Arabs."
" What makes you think so, particularly now ? "
" Well, myself and kinsmen have been looking at
this town, these big ships and piers, and we have
thought how much better all these things appear com-
pared to Zanzibar, which was captured from the
Portuguese before this tow T n was built, and I have been
wondering why we could not have done as well as you
w^hite people. I begin to think you must be very
clever."
" If you have discovered so much, Tippu-Tib, you are
on the high road to discover more. The white men
ARRIVAL AT THE MOUTH OF THE CONGO RIVER. 75
require a deal of study before you can quite make them
out. It is a pity you never went to England for a March 16 *
visit. '
" I hope to go there before I die."
" Be faithful to us on this long journey, and I will
take you there, and you will see more things than you
can dream of now."
" Inshallah ! if it is the will of Allah we shall go
together."
*****
On the 18th March the Madura entered the mouth of
the Congo Eiver, and dropped her anchor about 200
yards abreast of the sandy point, called Banana.
In a few minutes I was in the presence of Mr. Lafon-
taine Ferney, the chief Agent of the Dutch Company,
to whom our steamer was consigned. Through some
delay he had not been informed of our intending to
arrive as soon. Everybody professed surprise, as they
did not expect us before the 25th, but this fortunate
accident was solely due to the captain and the good
steamer. However, I succeeded in making arrangements
by which the Dutch Company's steamer K. A. Nieman
so named after a fine young man of that name, who
had lately died at St. Paul de Loanda would be placed
at my disposal, for the transport to Mataddi of 230
men next day.
On returning to the ship, I found my officers
surrounding two English traders, connected with the
British Congo Company of Banana. They were saying
some unpleasant things about the condition of the State
steamers. " There is a piece of the Stanley on shore
now, which will give you an idea of that steamer. The
Stanley is a perfect ruin, we are told. However, will
you leave the Pool ? The State has not one steamer in
service. They are all drawn up on the banks for
repairs, which will take months. We don't see how you
are to get away from here under six weeks ! Look at
that big steamer on the sands ! she has just come out
from Europe; the fool of a captain ran her on shore
instead of waiting for a pilot. She has got the sections
76 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. of a steamer in her hold. The Heron and Belgique, both
18< State steamers, have first, of course, to float that steamer
off. You are in for it nicely, we can tell you."
Naturally, this news was very discouraging to our
officers, and two of them hastened to comfort me with
the disastrous news. They were not so well acquainted
with the manners of the " natives " of the Lower Congo
as I was. I only marvelled why they had not been
politely requested to accompany their new aquaintances
to the cemetery, in order that they might have the
exquisite gratification of exhibiting the painted head-
boards, which record the deaths of many fine young
men, as promising in appearance as they.
I turned to the Agent of the British Congo, and
requested permission to charter his steamer, the Albu-
querque. The gentleman graciously acceded. This
assured me transport for 140 men and 60 tons cargo.
I then begged that he and his friend would negotiate for
the charter of the large paddle boat the Serpa Pinto.
Their good offices were entirely successful, and before
evening I knew that we should leave Banana Point
with 680 men and 160 tons cargo on the next day.
The State steamer Heron I was told would not be able
to leave before the 20th.
On the 19th the steamers K. A. Kicman, Albuquerque,
and Serpa Pinto, departed from Banana Point, and
before night had anchored at Ponta da Lenha. The
next day the two former steamers steamed straight
up to Mataddi. The Serpa Pinto hauled into the pier
at Boma, to allow me to send an official intimation of
the fact that the new Governor of Stanley Falls was
aboard, and to receive a hurried visit from two of the
Executive Committee charged with the administration
of the Congo State.
We had but time to exchange a few words, but in
that short time they managed to inform me that there
was a " famine in the country " ; that " the villages along
the road to the Pool were abandoned " ; that " the Stanley
was seriously damaged " ; that " the Mission steamers
Peace and Henry Reed were in some unknown parts of
CONDITION OF THE CONGO EIVER STEAMERS. 77
the Upper Congo " ; that " the En Evant was on shore iss?.
without machinery or boiler ; " that " the A. I. A. was March 19 -
500 miles above Stanley Pool " ; and that " the Royal
was perfectly rotten ; " and had not been employed for a
year ; in fact, that the whole of the naval stock
promised did not exist at all except in the imagina-
tion of the gentlemen of the Bureau at Brussels ; and,
said one, who seemed to be the principal of the Executive
Committee, with deliberate emphasis : " The boats were
only to assist you if they could be given without
prejudice to the service of the State."
The gruff voice of the Portuguese captain of the
Serpa Pinto ordered the gentlemen on shore, and we
proceeded on our way up the Congo.
My thoughts were not of the pleasantest. With my
flotilla of fifteen whale boats I might have been
independent ; but there was an objection to the Congo
route, and therefore that plan was abandoned. We had
no sooner adopted the East Coast route than the
Sovereign of the Congo State invited the Expedition to
pass through his territory ; the Germans had murmured,
and the French Government protested at the idea of
our marching through East Africa. When it was too
late to order the flotilla of whale boats from Forrest and
Son we then accepted the Congo route, after stipulating
for transport up the Lower Congo, for porterage to
Stanley Pool, and the loan of the steamers on the Upper
Congo which were now said to be wrecked, rotten, or
without boilers or engines, or scattered inaccessible. In
my ears rang the cry in England : " Hurry up, or you
may be too late ! " and singing through my memory
were the words of Junker : " Emin will be lost unless
immediate aid be given him ; " and Emin's appeal for
help ; for, if denied, " we shall perish."
" Well, the aspect of our work is ominous. It is riot
my fault, and what we have to do is simple enough.
We have given our promise to strive our level best.
It is no time for regret, but to struggle and " steer
right onward." Every article of our verbal bond,
having accepted this responsibility, we must perform,
78 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
IBS?, and it is the manner of this performance that I now
March 19. p ropose to re late.
Riven I shall not delay the narration to give descriptions of
the route overland to the Pool, or of the Upper Congo
and its banks, as these have been sufficiently treated of
in ' Through the Dark Continent,' and ' The Congo and
the Founding of its Free State ' ; and I now propose to
be very brief with the incidents of our journey to
Yambuya, at the head of navigation on the Aruwimi.
CHAPTEK IV.
TO STANLEY POOL.
Details of the journey to Stanley Pool The Soudanese and the Somalis
Meeting with Mr. Herbert Ward Camp at Congo la Lemba
Kindly entertained by Mr. and Mrs. Eichards Letters from up
river Letters to the Eev. Mr. Bentley and others for assistance
Arrival at Mwembi Necessity of enforcing discipline March to
Vombo Incident at Lukungu Station The Zanzibaris Incident
between Jephson and Salim at the Inkissi Eiver A series of
complaints The Eev. Mr. Bentley and the steamer Peace We
reach Makoko's village Leopoldville Difficulties regarding the use
of the Mission steamers Monsieur Liebrichts sees Mr. Billington
Visit to Mr. Swinburne at Kinshassa Orders to and duties of the
officers.
ON the 21st of March the Expedition debarked at the
landing-place of the Portuguese trading-house of Senor
Joda Ferrier d'Abren, situate at Mataddi, at a distance of
108 miles from the Atlantic. As fast as the steamers
were discharged of their passengers and cargo they cast
off to return to the seaport of Banana, or the river
port below.
About noon the Portuguese gunboat Kacongo hove in
sight. She brought Major Barttelot, Mr. Jephson, and
a number of Soudanese and Zanzibaris ; and soon after
the state steamer Heron brought up the remainder of
the cargo left on board the Madura.
We set up the tents, stored the immense quantity of
rice, biscuits, millet, salt, hay, etc., and bestirred our-
selves like men with unlimited work before us. Every
officer distinguished himself the Zanzibaris showed by
their celerity that they were glad to be on shore.
Our European party now consisted of Messrs. Barttelot,
Stairs, Nelson, Jephson, Parke, Bonny, who had voyaged
with me from Aden, Mr. Walker, an engineer, who had
80 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. joined us at the Cape, Mr. Ingham, an ex-Guardsman,
21 * who was our Congo Agent for collection of native
carriers, Mr. John Eose Troup, who had been despatched
to superintend native porterage to the Pool from Man-
yanga, and a European servant.
On the following day 171 porters, carrying 7 boxes
biscuits = 420 Ibs., 157 bags of rice = 10,205 Ibs., and
beads, departed from Mataddi to Lukungu.as a reserve
store for the Expedition on arrival. There were
180 sacks of 170 Ibs. each = 30,600 Ibs. besides, ready
to follow or precede us as carriers offered themselves,
and which were to be dropped at various places
en route, and at the Pool. Couriers were also sent
to the Pool with request to the Commandant to hurry
up the 'repairs of all steamers.
On the second day of arrival, Mr. Ingham appeared
with 220 carriers, engaged at a sovereign per load for
conveying goods to the Pool. Lieutenant Stairs practised
with the Maxim automatic gun, which fired 330 shots
per minute, to the great admiration of Tippu-Tib and his
followers.
On the 25th the trumpets sounded in the Soudanese
camp at 5.15 A.M. By 6 o'clock tents were folded, the
companies were ranged by their respective captains, and
near each company's stack of goods, and by 6.15 A.M. I
marched out with the vanguard, behind which streamed
the Expedition, according to their company, in single
file, bearing with us 466 separate " charges " or porter-
loads of ammunition, cloth, beads, wire, canned pro-
visions, rice, salt, oil for engines, brass rods, and iron
wire. The setting out was admirable, but after the first
hour of the march the mountains were so steep and
stony, the sunshine was so hot, the loads so heavy, the
men so new to the work after the glorious plenty on
board the Madura, and we ourselves were in such an
overfed condition, that the Expedition straggled in the
most disheartening manner to those not prepared for
such a sight. Arriving at the first river, the Mpozo,
the Advance was already jointed, and we were ferried
over to the other bank by fifties, and camped.
THE SOUDANESE AND THE SOMALIS.
83
1887.
The Soudanese were a wretched sight. The Somalia
were tolerable, though they had grumbled greatly March' 25.
because there were no camels. The former showed M p ozo
remarkably bad temper. Covered with their hooded
great-coats, they had endured a terrible atmosphere,
and the effects of heat, fatigue, and little worries were
very prominent.
The next day we camped in the grounds of Palaballa,
belonging to the Livingstone Inland Mission, and were
MAXIM AUTOMATIC GUN.
most hospitably treated by Mr. Clarke, the superin-
tendent, and ladies. As our men were so new to their
work, we halted the next day. By the officers' returns
I found that nine had died since leaving Zanzibar, and
seventeen were so ill that we were compelled to leave
them at Palaballa to recuperate.
We resumed the march on the 28th, and reached
Maza Mankengi. On the road Mr. Herbert Ward was
met, and volunteered as a member of the Expedition.
84 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. He was engaged, and sent to Mataddi to assist Mr.
arch 28. i n gh am w [fa the native transport. Mr. Ward had been
a^kengi. f ^ Q years in the service of the Congo State, and
previously had wandered in New Zealand and Borneo,
and was always regarded by me as a young man of great
promise.
We were in camp by noon of the 29th at Congo la
Lemba, on the site of a place I knew some years ago as
a flourishing village. The chief of it was then in his
glory, an undisputed master of the district. Prosperity,
however, spoiled him, and he began to exact tolls from
the State caravans. The route being blocked by his
insolence, the State sent a force of Bangalas, who cap-
tured and beheaded him. The village was burnt, and
the people fled elsewhere. The village site is now
covered with tall grass, and its guava, palm, and lemon -
trees are choked with reeds.
There was a slight improvement in the order of the
march, but the beginning of an Expedition is always a
trying time. The Zanzibaris carry 65 Ibs. of ammuni-
tion, 9 Ibs. per rifle, four days' rations of rice, and their
own kit, which may be from 4 to 1 Ibs. weight of cloth
and bedding mats. After they have become acclimated
this weight appears light to them ; but during the first
month we have to be very careful not to make long
marches, and to exercise much forbearance.
A heavy rain detained us the early part of next day,
but soon after nine we moved on and reached the Lufu
River. It was a terribly fatiguing march. Until mid-
night the people came streaming in, tired, footsore, and
sour. The officers slept in my tent, and supped on
biscuits and rice.
Near the Mazamba Wood we passed Baron von
Rothkirch supervising a party of Kabindas, who
were hauling the Florida* shaft. At the rate of
progress they would probably reach the Pool about
August next ; and at the Bembezi Ford a French trader
was met descending with a fine lot of ivory tusks.
We passed the Mangola River on the 31st, when I
was myself disabled by a fit of sickness from indulging
PROGRESS UP THE CONGO RIVER. 85
in the guavas of Congo la Lemba, and on the 1st April iss?.
we travelled to Banza Manteka. At the L. I. Mission April li
Mr. and Mrs. Richards most kindly entertained us. At Mante
this place a few years' mission work has produced a
great change. Nearly all the native population had
become professed Christians, and attended Divine
service punctually with all the fervour of revivalists.
Young men whom I had known as famous gin-drinkers
had become sober, decent men, and most mannerly in
behaviour.
I received three letters from up river, one from
Troup at Manyanga, Swinburne at Kinshassa, and Glave
at Equator Station, all giving a distressing account of
the steamers Stanley, Peace, Henry Reed, and En
Avant. The first is damaged throughout according to
my informants, the Mission steamers require thorough
overhauling, the En Avant has been reduced to a
barge. Mr. Troup suggests that we carry a lighter or
two from Manyanga to the Pool, a thing utterly impos-
sible. We were already overloaded because of the
rice we carried to feed nearly 800 people through
the starving country. In order to lighten our work
slightly Messrs. Jephson and Walker were despatched
with our steel boat, the Advance, by the Congo to
Manyanga.
We passed by the Lunionzo River on the 3rd, and
the next day camped on the site of the abandoned
village of Kilolo. During the march I passed a
Soudanese trying to strangle a Zanzibari because the
wearied man had slightly touched his shoulder with his
box. The spleen the Soudanese show is extremely ex-
asperating, but we must exercise patience yet awhile.
A march of three hours brought us to the Kwilu
River, with the usual ups and downs of hills, which tire
the caravan. At the river, which is 100 yards wide and
of strong current, was a canoe without an owner. We
took possession of it, and began to cross the Advance
Company by tens.
The opportunity afforded by the ferriage was seized
by me to write appealing letters to the Commandant at
86 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. Stanley Pool to interpret the orders of the Minister of
A J ml 3 * the Interior, Strauch, according to the generous spirit
River! expressed by King Leopold when he invited us to seek
Emin Pasha via the Congo. Another was directed to
the Kev. Mr. Bentley, of the Baptist Mission, requesting
him to remember the assistance I gave the Baptists in
1880-84, and to be prepared to lead the steamer Peace
that I might hurry the Expedition away from the
poverty-stricken region around Stanley Pool. Another
was despatched to Mr. Billington, superintendent of the
Henry Reed, in similar terms, reminding him that it
was I who had given them ground at Stanley Pool.
Another to the Commandant of Lukungu Station, request-
ing him to collect 400 carriers to lighten the labours of
my men.
On reaching Mwembi the 6th April, I was particularly
struck with the increase of demoralization in the
caravan. So far, in order not to press the people, I
had been very quiet, entrusting the labour of bringing
the stragglers to the younger men, that they might
become experienced in the troubles which beset Expedi-
tions in Africa ; but the necessity of enforcing discipline
was particularly demonstrated on this march. The
Zanzibaris had no sooner pitched the tents of their
respective officers than they rushed like madmen among
the neighbouring villages, and commenced to loot native
property, in doing which one named Khamis bin
Athman was shot dead by a plucky native. This fatal
incident is one of these signal proofs that discipline is
better than constant forbearance, and how soon even an
army of licentious, insubordinate, and refractory men
would be destroyed.
It had probably been believed by the mass of the
people that I was rather too old to supervise the march,
as in former times ; but on the march to Vombo, on the
7th, everyone was undeceived, and the last of the
lengthy caravan was in camp by 11 A.M., and each officer
enjoyed his lunch at noon, with his mind at ease for
duty done and a day's journey well made. There is
nothing more agreeable than the feeling one possesses
INCREASE OF DEMORALIZATION IN THE CARAVAN. 87
after a good journey briefly accomplished. We are ISST.
assured of a good day's rest ; the remainder of the day is April 7 -
our own to read, to eat, to sleep, and be luxuriously Vombo '
inactive, and to think calmly of the morrow ; and there
can scarcely be anything more disagreeable than to know
that, though the journey is but a short one, yet relaxa-
tion of severity permits that cruel dawdling on the road
in the suffocating high grass, or scorched by a blistering
sun the long line of carriers is crumpled up into per
spiring fragments water far when most needed ; not a
shady tree near the road ; the loads robbed and scattered
about over ten miles of road ; the carriers skulking
among the reeds, or cooling themselves in groves at a
distance from the road ; the officers in despair at the day's
near close, and hungry and vexed, and a near prospect of
some such troubles to recur again to-morrow and the
day after. An unreflecting spectator hovering near our
line of march might think we were unnecessarily cruel ;
but the application of a few cuts to the confirmed
stragglers secure eighteen hours' rest to about 800
people and their officers, save the goods from being
robbed for frequently these dawdlers lag behind pur-
posely for such intentions and the day ends happily
for all, and the morrow's journey has no horrors for us.
On the 8th the Expedition was welcomed at Lukungu
Station by Messrs. Francqui and Dessauer. These hos-
pitable Belgians had of their own impulse gathered four
days' rations for our 800 people, of potatoes, bananas,
brinjalls, Indian corn, and palm nuts.
No sooner had we all assembled than the Soudanese
gathered in a body to demand more food. In fifteen
days they had consumed- each one 40 Ibs. of biscuit and
rice ; and they announced their intention of returning to
the Lower Congo if more rations were not served out.
The four days' rations of vegetables they disdained to
touch. I had resolved to be very patient ; and it was
too early yet to manifest even the desire to be other-
wise. Extra rations of rice and biscuits were accord-
ingly served out.
Fortunately for me personally there were good officers
8$ IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. with me who could relieve me of the necessity of coming
Apnl 8> into conflict with wilful fellows like these sulky,
obstinate Soudanese. I reserved for myself the role of
mediator between exasperated whites and headstrong,
undisciplined blacks. Provided one is not himself
w r orn out by being compelled throughout the day to
shout at thick-headed men, it is a most agreeable
work to extenuate offences and soothe anger. Probably
the angry will turn away muttering that we are partial ;
the other party perhaps thirsts for more sympathy on
its side ; but the mediator must be prepared to receive a
rub or two himself.
Thinking that there would be less chance of the
Soudanese storming so furiously against the Zanzibaris
on tLe road, I requested Major Barttelot to keep his
Soudanese a day's march ahead of the Zanzibaris.
It will not be surprising that we all felt more
sympathy for the loaded Zanzibaris. These formed our
scouting parties, and foragers, and food purveyors ; they
pitched our tents, they collected fuel, they carried the
stores ; the main strength of the Expedition consisted of
them ; without them the Europeans and Soudanese, if
they had been ten times the number, would have been
of no use at all for the succour of Emin. The Soudanese
carried nothing but their rifles, their clothing, and their
rations. By the time they would be of actual utility we
should be a year older ; they might perhaps fail us when
the hour of need came, but we hoped not ; in the mean-
time, all that was necessary was to keep them moving on
with as little trouble as possible to themselves, the
Zanzibaris, and us. The Major, however, without doubt
was sorely tempted. If he was compelled to strike
during these days, I must admit that the Soudanese
were uncommonly provoking. Job would have waxed
wrathful, and become profane.
The heat was terrible the day we left Lukungu
the 10th. The men dropped down on all sides;
chiefs and men succumbed. We overtook the Soudanese
again, and the usual scuffling and profanity occurred as
an unhappy result.
EXPERIENCES OF THE MARCH. 89
On Easter Monday, the llth, the Soudanese Company iss?.
was stricken down with fever, and lamentation was April n>
general, and all but two of the Somalis were prostrated. Lukun s u -
Barttelot was in a furious rage at his unhappy Company,
and expressed a wish that he had been doing Jephson's
duty with the boat. I received a letter from Jephson
in the evening, wherein he wrote that he wished to be
with us, or anywhere rather than on the treacherous and
turbulent Congo.
The following day saw a foundering caravan as we
struggled most wretchedly into camp. The Soudanese
were miles from each other, the Somalis were all ill ;
one of those in the boat with Mr. Jephson had died.
Liebig, and meat soups, had to be prepared in sufficient
quantities to serve out cupfuls to each weakened man
as he staggered in.
Lutete's was reached the next day, and the ex-
periences of the march were similar. We suffer losses
on every march losses of men by desertion, by illness,
of rifles, boxes of canned provisions, and of fixed am-
munition.
At Nselo, on the Inkissi River, we encountered
Jephson, who has seen some novelties of life during
his voyage up the Congo rapids to Manyanga.
The sun has commenced to paint our faces a vermilion
tint, for I see in each officer's face two inflamed circles
glowing red and bright under each eye, and I fancy
the eyes flash with greater brilliancy. Some of them
have thought it would be more picturesque, more of the
ideal explorer type, to have their arms painted also, and
have bared their milk-white arms until they seem
bathed in flame.
The 16th April we employed in ferrying the Expe-
dition across the Inkissi River, and by 5.30 P.M. every
soul was across, besides our twenty donkeys and herd of
Cape goats.
During the ferriage some hot words were exchanged
between Salim, son of Massoud, a brother-in-law of
Tippu-Tib, and Mr. Mounteney Jephson, who is the
master of the boat. Salim, since he has married a
90 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. sister of Tippu-Tib, aspires to be beyond censure ;
16> his conceit has made him abominably insolent. At
elo> Mataddi's he chose to impress his views most arro-
gantly on Lieutenant Stairs ; and now it is with Mr.
Jephson, who briefly told him that if he did not mind
his own business he would have to toss him into the
river. Salim savagely resented this, until Tippu-Tib
appeared to ease his choler.
At the next camp I received some more letters from
Stanley Pool. Lieutenant Liebrichts, the commissaire of
the Stanley Pool district, wrote that the steamer Start ley
would be at my disposition, and also a lighter ! The
En Avant would not be ready for six weeks. Another
was from Mr. Billington, who declined most positively
to 'lend the Henry Reed.
One of my most serious duties after a march was to
listen to all sorts of complaints a series of them were
made on this day. A native robbed by a hungry
Zanzibari of a cassava loaf required restitution ; Binza,
the goat-herd, imagined himself slighted because he was
not allowed to participate in the delicacy of goat tripe,
and solicited my favour to obtain for him this privilege ;
a Zanzibari weakling, starving amidst a well-rationed
camp and rice-fed people, begged me to regard his
puckered stomach, and do him the justice to see that he
received his fair rations from his greedy chief. Salim,
Tippu-Tib's henchman, complained that my officers did
not admire him excessively. He said, " They should
remember he no Queen man now he Tippu-Tib's brudder-
in-law " (Salim was formerly an interpreter on board a
British cruiser). And there were charges of thefts of a
whinstone, a knife, a razor, against certain incorrigible
purloiners.
At our next camp on the Nkalama River, which we
reached on the 18th April, I received a letter by a
courier from Rev. Mr. Bentley, who informed me that
no prohibition had been received by him from England
of the loan of the Baptist mission steamer Peace, and
that provided I assured him that the Zanzibaris did
nothing contrary to missionary character, which he as a
LETTERS FROM STANLEY POOL. 91
missionary was desirous of maintaining, that he would ISST.
be most happy to surrender the Peace for the service of April 18<
the "Emin Pasha Relief Expedition." Though very N ?J' a
grateful, and fully impressed with his generosity, in this
unnecessary allusion to the Zanzibaris, and to this covert
intimation that we are responsible for their excesses, Mr.
Bentley has proved that it must have cost him a struggle
to grant the loan of the Peace. He ought to have
remembered that the privilege he obtained of building
his stations at Leopoldville, Kinshassa, and Lukolela
was gained by the labours of the good-natured Zanzi-
baris, who though sometimes tempted to take freedoms,
were generally well behaved, so much so that the
natives preferred them to the Houssas, Kabindas, Kru-
boys, or Bangalas.
On the 19th we were only able to make a short march,
as each day witnessed a severe downpour of rain, and
the Luila near which we camped had become dangerously
turbulent.
On the 20th we reached Makoko's village. The
Zanzibaris were observed to be weakening rapidly. They
have been compelled to live on stinted rations lately,
and their habit of indulging in raw manioc is very
injurious. A pound of rice per day is not a large ration
for working men, but if they had contrived to be con-
tented on this scanty but wholesome fare for a while
they would not be in a robust condition, it is true, but
there certainly would be less illness. During this march
from the Lower Congo we had consumed up to date
27,500 Ibs. of rice about 13 tons so that the resources
of the entire region had been severely taxed to obtain
this extra carriage The natives having fled from the
public paths, and our fear that the Zanzibaris, if per-
mitted to forage far from the camp, would commit
depredations, have been the main cause of their plucking
up the poisonous manioc tubers, and making themselves
wretchedly sick. There were about a hundred men on
this date useless as soldiers or carriers.
Arriving at Leopoldville on the 21st to the great
delight of all, one of my first discoveries was the fact
92 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. that the Stanley, a small lighter, our steel boat the
2L Advance, and the mission steamer Peace were the only
boats available for the transport of the Expedition up
the Congo. I introduce the following notes from my
diary :
Leopoldville, April 22nd. We are now 345 miles
from the sea in view of Stanley Pool, and before us free
from rapids are about 1100 miles of river to Yambuya
on the Aruwimi whence I propose resuming the land
journey to Lake Albert.
Messrs. Bentley and Whitley called on me to-day.
We spoke concerning the Peace. They said the vessel
required many repairs. I insisted that the case was
urgent. They finally decided after long consultation
that the repairs could be finished by the 30th.
In the afternoon I took Major Barttelot and Mr.
Mounteney Jephson into my confidence, and related to
them the difficulties that we were in, explained my
claims on the consideration of the missionaries and the
urgent necessity of an early departure from the foodless
district, that provisions were so scarce that the State
were able to procure only 60 full rations for 146 people,
and that to supply the others the State officers had
recourse to hunting the hippopotami in the Pool, and
that we should have to pursue the same course to eke
out the rice. And if 60 rations can only be procured for
146 people by the State authorities, how were we to
supply 750 people ? I then directed them to proceed
to Mr. Billington and Dr. Sims, and address themselves
to the former principally inasmuch as Dr. Sims was an
unsuccessful applicant for a position on this Expedition
and explain matters fairly to him.
They were absent about an hour and a half, and
returned to me crestfallen, they had. failed. Poor
Major ! Poor Jephson !
Monsieur Liebrichts, who had formerly served with
me on the Congo at Bolobo, was now the Governor of
the Stanley Pool district. He dined with me this
evening and heard the story as related by Major Barttelot
and Mr. Mounteney Jephson. Nothing was kept back
DIFFICULTIES REGARDING MISSION STEAMERS. 93
from him. He knew much of it previously. He agreed iss?
heartily with our views oi things and acknowledged that April 22 -
there was great urgency. Jephson said, " I vote we seize Le ; ld '
the Henry Reed!
" No, my friend Jephson. We must not be rash.
We must give Mr. Billington time to consider, who
would assuredly understand how much his mission was
indebted to me, and would see no difficulty in chartering
his steamer at double the price the Congo State paid to
him. Those who subsist on the charity of others
naturally know how to be charitable. We will try again
to-morrow, when I shall make a more formal requisition
and offer liberal terms, and then if she is not conceded
we must think what had best be done under the cir-
cumstances. '
April 23rd. Various important matters were at-
tended to this morning. The natives from all parts in
this neighbourhood came to revive acquaintance, and it
was ten o'clock before I was at liberty.
Ngalyema was somewhat tedious with a long story
about grievances that he had borne patiently, and
insults endured without plaint. He described the
change that had come over the white men, that of
late they had become more imperious in their manner,
and he and other chiefs suspecting that the change
boded no good to them had timidly absented them-
selves from the stations, the markets had been
abandoned, and consequently food had become scarce
and very dear.
Having given my sympathy to my old friends I called
Barttelot and Jephson and read to them a statement of
former kindnesses shown to the ' Livingstone Inland
Mission.' " When you have spoken, request in the name
of charity and humanity, and all good feeling, that Mr.
Billington allow me to offer liberal terms for the charter
of the' Henry Reed for a period of sixty days.
Barttelot was inspired to believe that his eloquence
would prevail, and asked permission to try in his way
once more.
" Very good, Major, go, and success attend you."
94 /AT DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. " I'm sure I shall succeed like a shot," said the Major
e^lid 3 ' confidentl y-
T. The Major proceeded to the Mission House, and Mr.
Jephson accompanied him as a witness of the proceedings.
Presently I received a characteristic note from the Major,
who wrote that he had argued ineffectually with the
missionaries, principally with Mr. Billington, but in the
presence of Dr. Sims, who sat in a chair contenting
himself with uttering remarks occasionally.
Lieutenant Liebrichts was informed of the event,
and presented himself, saying that this affair was the
duty of the State.
Monsieur Liebrichts, who is undoubtedly one of the
most distinguished officers in the Congo State, and who
has well maintained the high character described in a
former book of mine, devoted himself with ardour to
the task o*f impressing Mr. Billington with the irration-
ality of his position, and of his obstinacy in declining
to assist us out of our difficulties in which we had been
placed by the fault of circumstances. To and fro
throughout the day he went demanding, explaining,
and expostulating, and finally after twelve hours pre-
vailed on Mr. Billington to accept a charter upon the
liberal terms offered ; namely, 100 per month.
April 2Ath. Mustered Expedition and discovered we
are short of 57 men, and 38 Kemington rifles. The
actual number now is 737 men and 496 rifles. Of bill-
hooks, axes, shovels, canteens, spears, &c., we have lost
over 50 per cent. all in a twenty-eight days' march.
Some of the men, perhaps, will return to their duties,
but if such a large number deserts 3000 miles from
their native land, what might have been expected had
we taken the East Coast route. The Zanzibar head-men
tell me with a cynical bitterness that the Expedition
would have been dissolved. They say, " These people
from the clove and cinnamon plantations of Zanzibar
are no better than animals they have no sense of
feeling. They detest work, they don't know what silver
is, and they have no parents or homes. The men who
have homes never desert, if they did they would be so
LIEUT. LIEBBICHTS AND MR. BILLING TON. 95
laughed at by their neighbours that they could not iss?.
live." There is a great deal of truth in these remarks, A P ril24 -
but in this Expedition are scores of confirmed bounty- Le vm e ld "
jumpers who are only awaiting opportunities. In in-
specting the men to-day I was of the opinion that only
about 150 were free men, and that all the remainder
were either slaves or convicts.
Mr. J. S. Jameson has kindly volunteered to proceed
to shoot hippopotami to obtain meat. We are giving
1 Ib. of rice to each man just half rations. For the
officers and our Arab guests I have a flock of goats,
about thirty in number. The food presents from the
various chiefs around have amounted to 500 men's
rations and have been very acceptable.
Capt. Nelson is busy with the axemen preparing fuel
for the steamers. The Stanley must depart to-morrow
with Major Barttelot and Surgeon Parke's companies,
and debark them at a place above the Wampoko, when
they will then march to Mswata. I must avail myself
of every means of leaving Stanley Pool before we shall
be so pinched by hunger that the men will become un-
controllable.
April 25th. The steamer Stanley, steamed up river
with 153 men under Major Barttelot and Surgeon
Parke.
I paid a visit to Kinshassa to see my ancient secretary,
Mr. Swinburne, who is now manager of an Ivory Trading
Company, called the " Sanford Exploring Company."
The hull of his steamer, Florida, being completed, he
suggested that if we assisted him to launch her he
would be pleased to lend her to the Expedition, since she
was of no use to anybody until her machinery and shaft
came up with Baron von Eothkirch, who probably would
not arrive before the end of July. I was only too glad,
and a number of men were at once ordered up to begin
the operations of extending the slip to the river's edge.
Our engineer, Mr. John Walker, was detailed for
service on the Henry Reed, to clean her up and prepare
her for the Upper Congo.
One Soudanese and one Zanzibari died to-day.
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. April 27th. Thirteen Zanzibaris and one Soudanese,
April 27 those left behind from illness, at stations on the
ssa ' way have arrived. They report having sold their rifles
and sapper's tools !
April 28th. Struck camp and marched Expedition
overland to Kinshassa that I might personally super-
intend launching of hull of steamer, Florida, which we
hope to do the day after to-morrow, when the ship is
finished. We are being hospitably entertained mean-
LAUNCHING THE STEAMEB "FLORIDA.'
while by Mr. Antoine Greshoff, of the Dutch Company,
and Mr. Swinburne of the San ford Company.
April 29th. In camp at Kinshassa under the baobabs.
The steamers Stanley and Henry Reed, towing-barge
En Avant arrived.
April 30th. The hull of the Florida was launched
this morning. Two hundred men pulled her steadily
over the extended slip into the river. She was then
taken to the landing-place of the Dutch Company and
fastened to the steamer Stanley.
ORDERS ISSUED TO THE OFFICERS. 97
Each officer was furnished with the plan of embarka- 1887.
tion, and directed to begin work of loading the steamers . Apri! 30<
according to programme.
The following orders were also issued :
The Officers commanding companies in this Expedition are
Company
E. M. Barttelot . Major . . . No. 1, Soudanese.
W. G. Stairs .
K. H. Nelson .
A. J. Mounteney Jephson
J. S. Jameson
John Rose Troup
T. H. Parke .
Captain
Captain and Surgeon
2, Zanzibaris.
I :
I :
1, Somalis and
Zanzibaris.
Mr. William Bonny takes charge of transport and riding animals and
live stock, and assists Surgeon Parke when necessary.
" Each officer is personally responsible for the good
behaviour of his company and the condition of arms and
accoutrements."
" Officers will inspect frequently cartridge-pouches of
their men, and keep record to prevent sale of ammu-
nition to natives or Arabs."
"For trivial offences a slight corporal punishment
only can be inflicted, and this as seldom as possible.
Officers will exercise discretion in this matter, and en-
.deavour to avoid irritating the men, by being too
exacting, or showing unnecessary fussiness."
" It has been usual for me to be greatly forbear-
ing l e t the rule be, three pardons for one punish-
ment."
" Officers will please remember that the labour of the
men is severe, their burdens are heavy, the climate hot,
the marches fatiguing, and the rations poor and often
scanty. Under such conditions human nature is ex-
tremely susceptible, therefore punishments should be
judicious, not vexatious, to prevent straining patience
too much. Nevertheless discipline must be taught,
and when necessary enforced for the general well-
being."
" Serious offences affecting the Expedition generally
will be dealt with by me."
VOL. i. H
98 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. " While on shipboard one officer will be detailed to
f pl 30- perform the duties of the day. He must see to the dis-
tribution of rations, ship cleaned, and that no fighting
or wrangling occurs, as knifing soon follows unless
checked, that the animals are fed and watered regularly.
For all petty details apply to the senior officer, Major
Barttelot"
CHAPTER V.
FROM STANLEY POOL TO YAMBUYA.
Upper Congo scenery Accident to the Peace Steamers reach Kimpoko
Collecting fuel The good-for-nothing Peace The Stanley in
trouble Arrival at Bolobo The Eelief Expedition arranged in two
columns Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson chosen for command of
Rear Column Arrival at Equator and Bangala Stations The
Basoko villages : Baruti deserts us Arrival at Yambuya.
1 ftftT
As I have already expatiated at large upon the descrip- Majr i.
tion of scenes of the Upper Congo, I intend to expunge u PP er
altogether any impressions made on us according to our Congo *
varying moods during our river voyage of about 1100
miles to Yambuya. I will confine myself to the in-
cidents.
The days passed quickly enough. Their earlier hours
presented to us every morning panoramas of forest-land,
and myriads of forest isles, and broad channels of dead
calm water so beshone by the sun that they resembled
rivers of quicksilver. In general one might well have
said that they were exceedingly monotonous, that is if the
traveller was moving upward day by day past the same
scenes from such a distance as to lose perception of the
details. But we skirted one bank or the other, or
steered close to an island to avail ourselves of the deep
water, and therefore were saved from the tedium of the
monotony.
Seated in an easy-chair scarcely 40 feet from the
shore, every revolution of the propeller caused us to see
new features of foliage, bank, trees, shrubs, plants, buds
and blossoms. We might be indifferent to, or ignorant
of the character and virtues of the several plants and
varied vegetation we saw, we might have no interest in
100 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. any portion of the shore, but we certainly forgot the
Ma y L lapse of time while observing the outward forms, and
CorTo were often kindled into livelier interest whenever an
inhabitant of the air or of the water appeared in the
field of vision. These delightful views . of perfectly
calm waters, and vivid green forests with every sprig
and leaf still as death, and almost unbroken front line
of thick leafy bush sprinkled with butterflies and moths
and insects, and wide rivers of shining water, will remain
longer in our minds than the stormy aspects which
STANLEY POOL.
disturbed the exquisite repose of nature almost every
afternoon.
From the middle of March to the middle of May
was the rainy season, and daily, soon after 2 P.M.,
the sky betokened the approach of a lowering tempest ;
the sun was hidden by the dark portents of storms, and
soon after the thunderbolts rent the gloom, lightning
blazed through it, the rain poured with tropical copious-
ness, and general misery prevailed and the darkness of
the night followed.
Nature and time were at their best for us. The river
was neither too high nor too low. Were it the former
UPPER CONGO SCENERY. 1Q1
we should have had the difficulty of fmri Ing uninundated
ground ; had it been the latter we should have been
tediously delayed by the shallows. We were permitted
to steer generally about 40 yards from the left bank,
and to enjoy without interruption over 1000 miles of
changing hues and forms of vegetable life, which for
their variety, greenness of verdure, and wealth and scent
of flowers, the world cannot equal. Tornadoes were rare
during the greater portion of the day, whereby we escaped
many terrors and perils ; they occurred in the evening
or the night oftener, when we should be safely moored to
the shore. Mosquitoes, gadflies, tsetse and gnats were
not so vicious as formerly. Far more than half the jour-
ney was completed before we were reminded of their
existence by a few incorrigible vagrants of each species.
The pugnacious hippopotami and crocodiles were on this
occasion well-behaved. The aborigines were modest in
their expectations, and in many instances they gave
goats, fowls, and eggs, bananas and plantains, and
were content with " chits " on Mr. John Kose Troup,
who would follow us later. Our health was excellent,
indeed remarkably good, compared with former expe-
riences ; whether the English were better adapted phy-
sically, or whether they declined to yield, I know not,
but I had fewer complaints on this than on any previous
expedition.
On the 1st of May the start up the Congo was com-
menced with the departure of the Henry Reed and two
barges, with Tippu-Tib and 96 followers and 35 of
our men. Soon after her followed the Stanley and her
consort the Florida, with 336 people, besides 6 donkeys,
and cargoes of goods ; and half-an-hour later the
Peace attempted to follow, with 135 passengers on
board ; but the good wishes of the people on shore had
scarcely died away, and we were breasting the rapid
current, when her rudder snapped in two. Her captain
commanded the anchors to be dropped, which happened
to be over exceedingly rugged ground where the current
was racing six knots. The boat reeled to her beam ends,
the chains tore her deck, and as the anchors could not
102 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. be lifted, being foul among the rocks below, we had to
May " lt cut ourselves loose and to return to Kinshassa landing-
Congo, place. Captain Whitley and Mr. David Charters the
engineer set to to repair the rudder, and at 8 P.M. their
task was completed.
The next morning we had better fortune, and in due
time we reached Kimpoko at the head of the Pool, where
the other steamers awaited us.
The Peace led the advance up river on the 3rd ; but
the Stanley drew up, passed us, and reached camp an
hour and a half ahead of us. The Henry Reed was last
because of want of judgment on the part of her captain.
The Peace was spasmodic. She steamed well for a
short time, then suddenly slackened speed. We waited
half an hour for another spurt. Her boiler was a system
of coiled tubes, and her propellers were enclosed in twin
cylindrical shells under the stern, and required to be
driven at a furious rate before any speed could be
obtained. She will probably give us great trouble.
As soon as we camped, which we generally did about
5 P.M., each officer mustered his men, for wood cutting
for the morrow's fuel. This was sometimes very hard
work, and continued for hours into the night. The
wood of dead trees required to be sought by a number of
men and conveyed to the landing-place for the cutters.
For such a steamer as the Stanley it would require fifty
men to search for and carry wood for quite two hours ;
it would require a dozen axemen to cut it up into 30-inch
lengths for the grates. The Peace and Henry Reed re-
quired half as many axes and an equal amount of time to
prepare their fuel. It must then be stored on board the
steamers that no delay might take place in the morn-
ing, and this required some more work before silence,
which befits the night, could be obtained, and in the
meantime the fires were blazing to afford light, and the
noise of crashing, cutting, and splitting of logs continued
merrily.
The good-for-nothing Peace continued to provoke
us on the 4th May. She was certainly one of the
slowest steamers any shipbuilder could build. We
THE STEAMERS "PEACE" AND "STANLEY." 103
halted every forty-five minutes or so to " oil up," 1887.
and sometimes had to halt to clear out the cylinders of May4>
the propellers, had to stop to raise steam, to have the Congo
grate cleared out of charcoal, while five minutes after
raising steam up to 60, she fell to 40, and then 35, and
the poor miserable thing floated down stream at the rate
of a knot an hour. We lost seven days at Stanley Pool
through her ; a day was lost when the rudder broke ;
we were fated to be belated.
The next day, the 5th, we made fast to the landing-
place of Mswata. The Major and Dr. Parke had arrived
four days previously. They had prepared quantities of
fuel, and had purchased a large pile of provisions
loaves of bread from the manioc root and Indian
corn.
On the 6th the Major and his companions received
orders to march their men to Kwamouth, and await the
steamer. The Stanley was ordered to proceed to Bolobo,
debark her passengers, and descend to Kwamouth to
convey Barttelot and men, while we reorganized com-
panies at Bolobo.
On the 7th we observed the Stanley steamer ashore
on the left bank near Chumbiri, and proceeding to her
to inquire into the delay discovered that she was badly
injured by running on a rocky reef. The second section
had been pierced in four separate places and several
rivets knocked out and others loosened. We therefore
set to with the engineers of all the other steamers to
repair her, but Messrs. Charters and Walker, both
Scotchmen, were the most effective at the repairs. We
cut up some old sheet iron oil drums, formed plates of
them, and screwed them in from the outside. This was
a very delicate labour, requiring patience and nicety of
touch, as there were two feet -of water in the hold, and
the screws required to be felt to place the nuts on, as
well as the punching of holes through the bottom of the
steamer. The engineer was up to his waist in water, and
striking his chisel through an element that broke the blow,
then there was the preparation of the plate to correspond
with the holes in the steamer, spreading the minium,
104 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. then a layer of canvas, and another layer of minium.
klay7 ' When everything was ready for fixing the iron plate, a
Congo, diver was sent down, the iron plate with its canvas patch
and minium layers in one hand, and the end of a string
attached to a hole in the plate in the other hand. The
diver outside had to feel for the corresponding hole in
the steamer, and the engineer up to his hips in water
within the hold felt for the end of the twine, which
when found, was drawn in gently, and the plate carefully
guided, or the bolt was slipped in, and the engineer placed
the nut on. For hours this tedious work went on, and
by evening of the 7th, one large rent in the steel
hull had been repaired ; the 8th and 9th were
passed before the steamer was able to continue her
voyage.
On the 10th the Stanley caught the asthmatic Peace
up, and passed us in company with the Henry Reed.
A few hours later the Peace sulked altogether, and
declined to proceed. Only 30 Ibs. steam could be
maintained. We were therefore compelled to make fast
to the shore. At this period Mr. Charters' face possessed
more interest than anything else in the world. We
hung on his words as though they were decrees of Fate.
He was a sanguine and cheerful little man, and he
comforted us exceedingly. He was sure we would arrive
in Bolobo in good time, though we did not appear to be
proceeding very rapidly while tied to the shore.
The next day we tried again, starting at 4 A.M.,
resolved to distinguish ourselves. For an hour the
Peace behaved nobly, but finally she showed symptoms
of relapse. The steam descended lower and lower, and
could not retain 5 Ibs. , and we therefore cast anchor. At
10 A.M. the case appearing hopeless, I despatched Mr.
Ward in the whale boat to obtain assistance from the
Henry Reed, and at eight at night she appeared and
anchored sixty yards from us, and all the day we had
been idly watching the dark brown current flow by,
anchored in mid-stream at least 500 yards from either
shore or island, seeing nothing but hippopotami, grassy
clumps, weeds, and debris of woods floating by. On
DECISION AS TO COMMAND OF REAR COLUMN. 105
the 12th we arrived ignominiously at Bolobo in tow of iss?.
the JJenry Reed.
When the traveller reaches Uyanzi such a thing as cngo.
famine is scarcely possible, and one of the best river
ports for abundance and variety of food is Bolobo.
Here, then, after reaching a district where the people
could recuperate and forget the miseries of limited
rations endured since leaving Lukungu, was the place to
form the Eelief Expedition into two columns.
It was decided that as the force could not be trans-
ported on one voyage to the Upper Congo, that the
healthiest men should be selected to proceed to Yambuya,
and that the weakly should remain in Bolobo as a
portion of Major Barttelot's column under Messrs. Her-
bert Ward, and William Bonny, until the Stanley
should return from Yambuya. We had started from
England with the cry of " urgency " in our ears and
memories, and it behoved us to speed on as well as
circumstances would permit in obedience to the necessity,
trusting that the rear column would be able to follow
on our tracks some six or seven weeks later.
We accordingly selected 125 men who appeared
weakest in body, and left them at Bolobo to fatten up
on the bananas and excellent native bread and fish that
were easily procurable here. The Stanley in the mean-
time had descended to Kwamouth with Major Barttelot,
Dr. Parke, and 153 men.
The vexed question was also settled here as to who
should take charge of the rear column. It being the
most important post next to mine, all eyes were natu-
rally directed to the senior officer, Major Barttelot. It
was said that he had led a column of a thousand men from
Kosseir on the Eed Sea to Keneh on the Nile, and that
he had distinguished himself in Afghanistan and in the
Soudan Campaign. If these facts were true, then un-
doubtedly he was the fittest officer for the office of
commanding the rear column. Had there been a person
of equal rank with him, I should certainly have dele-
gated this charge to another, not because of any known
unfitness, but because he was so eager to accompany the
106 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. advance column. On reflecting on the capacities and
rank of the other gentlemen, and their eagerness being
Congo, too well known to me, I informed the Major that I could
not really undertake the responsibility of appointing
youthful lieutenants to fill a post that devolved on him
by rank, experience, and reputation.
" One more steamer like the Stanley would have
done it, Major, completely," I said, cheerfully, for
the young officer was sorely depressed. "Only 125
men and a cargo of goods left of the Expedition. All
the rest are on board comfortably. If you can discover
some better person than yourself to take your place
between here and Yambuya, I would gladly know him.
I hope you will not take it too much to heart. For
what does it matter after all ? You who bring up the
rear are as much entitled to credit as we in the advance.
If Tippu-Tib will only be faithful, you will only be six
weeks behind us, and you may overtake us, for we shall
be naturally delayed a great deal, finding the track and
boring our way through all kinds of obstacles. You
will folloAv an indicated path, and frequently you may
be able to make two of our marches in one day. If
Tippu-Tib does not join us, you will be master of your
own column, and you will be so occupied with your task
that the days will slip by you fast enough. Arid I tell
you another thing for your comfort, Major ; there is
plenty of work ahead of us, wherein you shall have the
most important part. Now tell me, who would you
wish for your second ? "
" Oh, I would rather leave it to you."
" Nay, I would prefer you would select some one friend
as your companion, to share your hopes and thoughts.
We all of us have our partialities, you know."
" Well, then, I choose Jameson."
" Very well, Mr. Jameson shall be appointed. I will
speak to him myself. I will then leave Mr. Rose Troup,
who is a capital fellow, I have reason to believe, and
young Ward and Bonny. Both Troup and Ward speak
Swahili, and they will be of vast service to you."
In this manner the matter was arranged, and on the
WE REACH BANGALA STATION. 107
15th of May the flotilla resumed the up-river voyage, 1887.
conveying 511 persons of the Expedition, and Tippu- May 15>
Tib and ninety of his followers.
We made a fair journey on the 16th, the repairs on
the Peace having greatly improved her rate of progress,
and on the 19th made fast to the shore near the Baptist
Mission of Lukolela, though the Stanley did not make
her appearance until late on the 19th.
We halted on the 20th at Lukolela, to purchase food
for our journey to Equator Station, and we were
extremely grateful for the kind hospitality shown to us
by the missionaries at this station.
On the 24th of May we arrived at Equator Station,
now owned by the Sanford Company, which was repre-
sented by Mr. E. J. Glave, a young and clever York-
shireman. Captain Van Gele was also here, with five
Houssa soldiers lately returned from a futile effort to as-
cend the Mobangi higher than Mr. Grenfell, the mission-
ary, had succeeded in doing some months previously.
We reached Bangala Station on the 30th May. This
place was now a very large and prosperous settlement.
There was a garrison of sixty men and two Krupps, for
defence. Bricks were made, of excellent quality ; 40,000
had already been manufactured. The establishment was
in every way very creditable to Central Africa. The
chief, Van Kirkhoven, was absent at Langa-Langa. He
had lately succeeded in releasing twenty-nine Houssa
soldiers from slavery. During the escape of Deane from
Stanley Falls, these Houssas had precipitately retreated
into a canoe, and had floated as far as Upoto when they
were captured as runaways by the natives of the district.
Among other good qualities of Bangala, there is a
never-failing supply of food. The station possessed
130 goats and a couple of hundred fowls, which supplied
the officers with fresh eggs. Ten acres were green with
a promising rice crop. The officers enjoyed wine of palm
and banana, and fermented beer made of sugar-cane,
and exceedingly potent I found the latter to be.
At Bangala I instructed Major Barttelot to proceed
with Tippu-Tib and party direct to Stanley Falls, having
108 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. first taken out thirty -five Zanzibaris from the boats, and
May so. re p} acec [ them with forty Soudanese, that none of the
Congo. Zanzibaris might become acquainted with the fact that
Stanley Falls was but a few days' march from Yambuya.
With the exception of certain irregularities in the
behaviour of the steamer Stanley, which by some
mysterious manoeuvres disappeared amid intricate
passages, on the plea that sufficient fuel of a right
quality could be found, we steamed up to the Aruwimi
River without any incident, and arrived at our ancient
camp, opposite the Basoko villages, on June 12th.
The Basoko were the countrymen of Baruti, or
" Gunpowder," who had been captured by Karema when
a child, in 1883, and had been taken to England by Sir
Francis de Winton, with a view of impressing on him
the superiority of civilized customs. From Sir Francis'
care Baruti passed into mine, and here we were at last
in view of his natal village and tribe, from which he had
been absent six years.
Seeing Baruti eyeing with excessive interest the place
of his birth, he was encouraged by me to hail the
Basoko, and invite them to visit us. My previous
attempts at winning the confidence of these forest
natives had been failures, though in time I was sure
there would be no difficulty. For a long period it had
been an interesting question to me why aborigines of
the forest were more intractable and coy than natives of
the open country. The same methods had been applied,
the dangling of some bright or gaudy article of barter,
the strings of beads of dazzling colour, suspended
patiently, the artful speech, the alluring smile and
gesture, all were resorted to for long hours, but always
ending with disappointment and postponement to a
more leisurely occasion. But the reason is that the
forest has been always a handy fastness for retreat,
the suspicion of the stranger, and the convenient depth
of trackless woods plead strongly against some indefinite
risk. The least advance causes a precipitate backward
movement until he gains the limits of the forest, and
then he stands to take a last survey, and finally dis-
MY SLACK SOY BARUTI AND HIS BROTHER. 109
appears into the gloom with an air of "It won't do, you 1887.
know ; you can't come over me." Whereas in the open June l2 *
country the native has generally some coign of vantage,
some eminence, a tree or an ant-hill, from the crest of
which he has taken his observations, and been warned
and informed of the character of the strangers, in the
forest the stranger meets the tenant of the woods
abruptly ; he has advanced out of the unknown, with
Upper
Congo.
BARTJTI FINDS HIS BROTHER.
purpose unfathomed. Surprise is in the face of one,
terror marks the face of the other.
Baruti hailed, and the canoes advanced towards us
with a tediously slow process, but finally they ap-
proached within easy hearing. He recognized some of
the canoe-men, and informed them that they had no
cause for fear. He asked for a person whose name he
uttered, and the wild men hallooed the word with
splendid lung-power across the river, until some one
responded, and embarked in a canoe and approached.
This turned out to be Baruti's elder brother. Baruti
110 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. demanded to know how his brother fared, after so many
June 12. y earg o absence. The brother eyed him vacantly, could
Congo. n t recognize any feature in him, and grunted his doubt.
Baruti mentioned the name of his parents, that of his
father, and afterwards that of his mother. Great in-
terest now manifested itself in his brother's face, and he
skilfully drew his canoe nearer.
" If you are my brother, tell me some incident, that
I may know you."
" Thou hast a scar on thy arm there, on the right.
Dost thou not remember the crocodile ? "
This was enough ; the young, broad-chested native
gave a shout of joy, and roared out the discovery to his
countrymen on the further bank, and Baruti for the first
time shed tears. The young fellow drew near to the
ship, forgot his fears of the strangers, and gave Baruti a
frantic hug, and the other canoes advanced to participate
in the joy of the two restored brothers.
In the evening Baruti was offered his choice of staying
in his village among his tribe, or of following our
adventures ; at the same time he was advised not to
leave us, as life among the Basoko would be very
insecure with the Arabs in such close proximity as
Stanley Falls.
The lad appeared to think so too, and so declined to
be restored to his native land and tribe ; but a day or
two after reaching Yambuya he altered his mind, came
into my tent in the dead of night, armed himself with
my Winchester rifle and a brace of Smith and Wesson
revolvers, a supply of rifle and revolver cartridges, took
possession of a silver road-watch, a silver pedometer, a
handsome belt with fitted pouches, a small sum of
money, and, possessing himself of a canoe, disappeared
down river to some parts unknown, most probably to
his tribe. At any rate, we have never seen or heard
of him since. Peace be with him !
On the 15th of June we arrived opposite Yambuya
villages, situated on the left bank of the Aruwimi,
96 miles above the confluence of the Aruwimi and the
Congo.
CHAPTER VI.
AT YAMBUYA.
We land at Yambuya villages The Stanley leaves for Equator Station-
Fears regarding Major Barttelot and the Henri/ heed Safe arrival
Instructions to Major Barttelot and Mr. Jameson respecting the
Bear Column Major Barttelot's doubts as to Tippu-Tib's good
faith A long conversation with Major Barttelot Memorandum for
the officers of the Advance Column Illness of Lieutenant Stairs
Last night at Yambuya Statements as to our forces and accoutre-
ments.
WE were now over 1300 miles from the sea. Opposite to
us were the villages which we hoped, with the goodwill
of the natives, to occupy temporarily as a depot for the
men and stores left at Bolobo and Leopoldville, 125
men and about 600 porter-loads of impedimenta ; if not
with the natives' goodwill by fair purchase of the
privilege, then by force.
On an exploring visit in 1883 I had attempted
to conciliate them without any permanent result.
We had a very serious object in view now. In
prospective we saw only the distant ports of the
Nile and the Albert Nyanza, defended by men ever
casting anxious glances to every cardinal point of the
compass, expectant of relief, as they must by this time
be well informed by our couriers from Zanzibar ; but
between us and them was a broad region justly marked
with whiteness on the best maps extant. Looking at
that black wall of forest which had been a continuous
bank of tall woods from Bolobo hitherto, except when
disparted by the majestic streams pouring their volu-
minous currents to the parent river, each of us probably
had his own thoughts far hidden in the recesses of the
mind. Mine were of that ideal Governor in the
112 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. midst of his garrisons, cheering and encouraging his
Y ' valiant soldiers, pointing with hand outstretched to
' uya * the direction whence the expected relief would surely
approach if it were the will of God, and in the dis-
tance beyond I saw in my imagination the Mahdist
hordes advancing with frantic cries and thrilling
enthusiasm crying out, " Yallah, Yallah," until from end
to end of the swaying lines the cry was heard rolling
through the host of fervid and fanatical warriors, and
on the other sides multitudes of savages vowed to exter-
A TYPICAL VILLAGE ON THE LOWER
ARUWIMI.
mination biding their time, and between them and us
was this huge area of the unknown without a track or a
path.
Ammunition was served out by the captains of the
companies, and instructions were issued to them to have
steam up on board their respective steamers that we
might commence the first most important move pre-
paratory to marching towards the Albert Nyanza.
At six o'clock in the morning of the 16th of June the
Peace glided from her berth until she was abreast of
the Stanley, and when near enough to be heard, I re-
quested the officers to await my signal. Then, steaming
EXCITEMENT OF THE NATIVES OF YAMBUYA. 113
gently across the river, we attempted to soothe the fears
and quiet the excitement of the natives by remaining
abreast of the great crowd that stood upon the bluffy bank
fifty feet above us, regarding us with wonder and curiosity.
Our interpreter was well able to make himself under-
stood, for the natives of the lower Aruwimi speak but
one language. After an hour's interchange of compli-
ments and friendly phrases, they were induced to send a
few of the boldest down to the river's edge, and by a
slight movement of the helm the current pushed the
OUR LANDING AT YAMBUYA.
1887.
June 16.
Yambuya.
steamer close to the bank, where another hour was
passed in entreaty and coaxing on our part, denials and
refusals on the other. We succeeded in the purchase of
one of their knives for a liberal quantity of beads !
Encouraged by this, we commenced to negotiate for
leave to reside in their village for a few weeks at a price
in cloth, beads, wire, or iron, but it was met with
consistent and firm denial for another hour.
It was now nine o'clock, my throat was dry, the sun was
getting hot, and I signalled to the steamer Stanley to
VOL. I. I
114 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. come across and join us, and when near enough, aCCOrd-
TlinP 1fi 1*11 J_1
Jur ing to agreement, a second signal caused the steam
iya ' whistles to sound, and under cover of the deafening
sounds, pent up as they were by the lofty walls of the
forest, both steamers were steered to the shore, and the
Zanzibaris and Soudanese scrambled up the steep sides
of the bluff like monkeys, and when the summit was
gained not a villager was in sight.
We found Yambuya settlement to consist of a series
of villages of conical huts extending along the crest of
the bank, whence far-reaching views of the Aruwimi up
and down stream could be obtained. The companies
were marched to their respective quarters. Guards
were set at the end of every path leading out. Some
of the men were detailed to cut wood for a palisade,
others to collect fuel, and several squads were de-
spatched to ascertain the extent of the fields and their
locality.
In the afternoon two natives from a village below
Yambuya made their appearance with a flattering con-
fidence in their demeanour. They belonged to the Baburu
tribes, to which these various fragments of tribes between
Stanley Falls arid the Lower Aruwimi belong. They
sold us a few bananas, were well paid in return, and
invited to return with more food, and assurance was given
that they need be under no alarm.
On the next day men were sent to collect manioc
from the fields, others were sent to construct a palisade,
a ditch was traced, workers were appointed to dig a
trench for sinking the stockade poles, woodcutters were
sent to work to prepare to load the steamers with fuel,
that with their weakened crews they might not be sur-
prised on their return journey to the Pool, and every-
where was life and activity.
Several captures were made in the woods, and after
being shown everything, the natives were supplied
with handfuls of beads to convey the assurance that
no fear ought to be entertained of us and no harm done
to them.
On the 19th fuel sufficient had been cut for six days*
YAMBUYA SETTLEMENT. 115
steaming for the Stanley with which she could proceed
to Equator Station. A cheque was drawn for 50 in June 17<
favour of the Captain, and another for a similar amount
for the engineer, on Ransom, Bouverie & Co., and both
were handed in their presence to Mr. Jameson to be
presented to them on their return from Stanley Pool,
provided they safely reached Yambuya about the middle
of August. A valuable jewel was sent to Lieutenant
Liebrichts as a token of my great regard for him.
The Stanley left next morning with my letters to the
Em in Relief Committee.
The Peace was detained for the sake of accompanying
her consort, the Henri/ Reed, which was now hourly
expected from Stanley Falls according to the instruc-
tions given to Major Barttelot, as she ought to have
reached us on the 19th.
In a wild country like this, cannibals in the forest on
either hand, and thousands of slave raiders in such a
close vicinity as Stanley Falls, we were naturally
prone to suspect the occurrence of serious events, if
one's expectations were not promptly and punctually
realized. Major Barttelot had passed the mouth of the
Aruwimi on the llth inst. in command of the steamer
Henry Reed, conveying Tippu-Tib and party to a settle-
ment from which an English commandant and garrison
had been precipitately ousted. True, the Arab chief
had been very confident in his manner, and earnest in
the assurance that in nine days after arriving at his
settlement he would present himself at Yambuya with
600 carriers in accordance with his agreement, and I was
loth to believe that he was in any way responsible for
this detention of the Major. Yet the Major should
have reached Stanley Falls on the 13th, on the evening
of the 14th he should have been at the mouth of the
Aruwimi again, and on the 16th at Yambuya; that
is, provided the Major was gifted with the spirit of
literal performance and permitted nothing to tempt him
to delay. It was now the 21st. The officers were con-
fident that nothing had occurred but the delays natural
to circumstances of existence in Africa, but hourly I
116 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. found myself straying to the edge of the bluff sweeping
1 the view down river with my glass.
On the 22nd my uneasiness was so great that I penned
an order to Lieutenant Stairs to take fifty of the best
men, and the Maxim machine gun, to proceed down river
on the morning of the 23rd with the Peace to search for
the Henry Reed, and if all other eventualities mentioned
and explained had not transpired to proceed to Stanley
Falls. On arriving before this settlement if the vessel
was seen at the landing-place, and his friendly signals
as he advanced were not responded to, he was to
prepare everything for assault and re-capture of the
steamer, and to hurry back to me with the news if
unsuccessful.
At 5 P.M., however, the Zanzibaris rang out the
welcome cry of " Sail ho ! " Barttelot was safe, no
accident had occurred. Tippu-Tib had not captured
the vessel, the Soudanese had not mutinied against the
Major, the natives had not assaulted the sleeping camp
by night, the steamer had not been sunk by a snag nor
had she been run aground, and the boat for which we
were morally responsible to the Mission was in as good
order and condition as when she left Stanley Pool. But
in Africa it is too wearing to be the victim of such
anxieties.
The Major had been simply detained by various mis-
chances fighting with natives, palaver with Tippu-Tib
and men, &c. &c.
Two days later the steamers Peace and Henry Reed
were loaded with fuel and despatched homeward down
river, and we had severed the last link with civilization
for many a month to come.
On this day I delivered the following letter of instruc-
tions to Major Barttelot, and a copy of it to Mr. J. S.
Jameson his second in command.
June 24th, 1887.
To MAJOR BAUTTELOT, &c., &c., &c.
SIB, As the senior of tho?e officers accompanying me on the Emin
Pasha Eelief Expedition, the command of this important post naturally
devolves on you. It is also for the interest of the Expedition that* you
accept this command, from the fact that your Soudanese company, being
LETTER OF INSTRUCTION TO MAJOR BARTTELOT. 117
only soldiers, and more capable of garrison duty than the Zanzibaris
will be better utilized than on the road.
The steamer Stanley left Yambuya on the 22nd of this month for
Stanley Pool. If she meets with no mischance she ought to be at Yambu y a -
Leopoldville on the 2nd of July. In two days more she will be loaded
with about 500 loads of our goods, which were left in charge of Mr.
J. K. Troup. This gentleman will embark, and on the 4th of July
I assume that the Stanley will commence her ascent of the river, and
arrive at Bolobo on the 9th. Fuel being ready, the 125 men in charge of
Messrs. Ward and Bonny, now at Bolobo, will embark, and the steamer
will continue her journey. She will be at Bangala on the 19th of July,
and arrive here on the 31st of July. Of course, the lowness of the river
in that month may delay her a few days, but, having great confidence in
her captain, you may certainly expect her before the 10th of August.*
It is the non-arrival of these goods and men which compel me to
appoint you as commander of this post. But as I shall shortly expect
the arrival of a strong reinforcement of men,f greatly exceeding the
advance force which must, at all hazards, push on to the rescue of Emin
Pasha, 1 hope you will not be detained longer than a few days after the
departure of the Stanley on her final return to Stanley Pool in August.
Meantime, pending the arrival of our men and goods, it behoves you
to be very alert and wary in the command of this stockaded ramp.
Though the camp is favourably situated and naturally strong, a brave
enemy would find it no difficult task to capture if the commander is lax
in discipline, vigour and energy. Therefore I feel sure that I have made
a wise choice in selecting you to guard our interests here during our
absence.
The interests now entrusted to you are of vital importance to this
Expedition. The men you will eventually have under you consist of
more than an entire third of the Expedition. The goods that will be
brought up are the currency needed for transit through the regions
beyond the Lakes ; there will be a vast store of ammunition and provi-
sions, which are of equal importance to us. The loss of these men and
goods would be certain ruin to us, and the Advance Force itself would
need to solicit relief in its turn. Therefore, weighing this matter well, I
hope you will spare no pains to maintain order and discipline in your
camp, and make your defences complete, and keep them in such a condi-
tion, that however brave an enemy may be he can make no impression
on them. For this latter purpose I would recommend you to make an
artificial ditch 6 feet wide, 3 feet deep, leading from the natural ditch,
where the spring is round the stockade. A platform, like that on the
southern side of the camp, constructed near the eastern as well as
the western gate, would be of advantage to the strength of the camp.
For remember, it is not the natives alone who may wish to assail you,
but the Arabs and their followers may, through some cause or other,
quarrel with you and assail your camp.
Our course from here will be due east, or by magnetic compass east by
south as near as possible. Certain marches that we may make may not
exactly lead in the direction aimed at. Nevertheless, it is the south-west
corner pt Lake Albert, near or at Kavalli, that is our destination. When
we arrive there we shall form a strong camp in the neighbourhood,
launch our boat, and steer for Kibero, in Unyoro, to hear from Signer
* She arrived on the 14th of August. Had been detained a few days
by running on a snag,
f Tippu-Tib's 600 carriers.
118 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. Casati, if he is there, of the condition of Emin Pasha. If the latter is
June 24. alive, and in the neighbourhood of the Lake, we shall communicate with
Yambt *" m ' an d our after conduct must be guided by what we shall learn of the
' ' intentions of Emin Pasha. We may assume that we shall not be longer
than a fortnight with him before deciding on our return towards the
camp along the same road traversed by us.
We will endeavour, by blazing trees and cutting saplings along our
road, to leave sufficient traces of the route taken by us. We shall always
take, by preference, tracks leading eastward. At all crossings where paths
intersect, we shall hoe up and make a hole a few inches deep across all
paths not used by us, besides blazing trees when possible.
It may happen, should Tippu-Tib have sent the full number of adults
promised by him to me, viz., 600 men (able to carry loads), and the
Stanley has arrived safely with the 12o men left by me at Bolobo, that
you will feel yourself sufficiently competent to march the column, with
all the goods brought by the Stanley, and those left by me at Yambuya,
along the road pursued by me. In that event, which would be very
desirable, you will follow closely our route, and before many days we
should most assuredly meet. No doubt you will find our bomas intact
and standing, and you should endeavour to make your marches so that
you could utilise these as you marched. Better guides than those bomas
of our route could not be made. If you do not meet them in the course
of two days' march, jou may rest assured that you are not on our
route.
It may happen, also, that though Tippu-Tib has sent some men, he
has not sent enough to carry the goods with your own force. In that
case you will, of course, use your discretion as to what goods you can
dispense with to enable you to march. For this purpose you should
study your list attentively.
1st. Ammunition, especially fixed, is most important.
2nd. Beads, brass wire, cowries and cloth, rank next.
3rd. Private luggage.
4th. Powder and caps.
5th. European provisions.
6th. Brass rods as used on the Congo.
7th. Provisions (rice, beans, peas, millet, biscuits).
Therefore you must consider, after rope, sacking, tools, such as shovels
(never discard an axe or bill-hook), how many sacks of provisions you
can distribute among your men to enable you to march whether lialf
your brass rods in the boxes could not go also, and there stop. If you
still cannot march, then it would be better to make two marches of six
miles twice over, if you prefer marching to staying for our arrival, than
throw too many things away.
With the Stanley's final departure from Yambuya, you should not fail
to send a report to Mr. William Mackinnon, c/o Gray, Dawes and Co.,
13, Austin Friars, London, of what has happened at your camp in my
absence, or when I started away eastward ; whether you have heard of
or from me at all, when you do expect to hear, and what you purpose
doing. You should also send him a true copy of this order, that the
Belief Committee may judge for themselves whether you have acted, or
propose to act, judiciously.
Your present garrison shall consist of 80 rifles, and from 40 to 50 super-
numeraries. The Stanley is to bring you within a few weeks 50 more
rifles and 75 supernumeraries, under Messrs. Troup, Ward and Bonny.
I associate Mr. J. S. Jameson with you at present. Messrs. Troup,
Ward and Bonny, will submit to your authority. In the ordinary duties
of the defence, and the conduct of the camp or of the march, there is
, LETTER OF INSTRUCTION TO MAJOR BARTTELOT. 119
only one chief, which is yourself; but, should any vital step be proposed
to be taken, I beg you will take the voice of Mr. Jameson also. And T L
when Messrs. Troup and Ward are here, pray admit them to your '
confidence, and let them speak freely their opinions. Yambuya.
I think I have written very clearly upon everything that strikes me as
necessary. Your treatment of the natives, I suggest, should depend
entirely upon their conduct to you. Suffer them to return to the neigh-
bouring villages in peace, and if j ou can in any manner by moderation,
small gifts occasionally of brass rods, &c., hasten an amicable intercourse'
I should recommend you doing so. Lose no opportunity of obtaining
all kinds of information respecting the natives, the position of the various
villages in your neighbourhood, &c., &c.
I have the honour to be, jour obedient servant,
HENRY M. STANLEY.
Commanding Expedition.
The Major withdrew to read it, and then requested
Mr. Jameson to make a few copies.
About two o'clock the Major returned to me and
asked for an interview. He said he desired to speak
with me concerning Tippu-Tib.
" I should like to know, sir, something more regard-
ing this Arab. When I was delayed a few days ago at the
Falls, you were pleased to deliver some rather energetic
orders to Lieutenant Stairs. It strikes me that you are
exceedingly suspicious of him, and if so, I really cannot
see why you should have anything to do with such a
man."
" Well, sir, I shall be pleased to discuss him with you,
or any other subject," I replied.
" Three days before your steamer was sighted coming
up river, I must confess to have been very anxious about
you. You were in command of a steamer which
belonged to other parties to whom we were pledged to
return her within a certain time. You had a company
of forty soldiers, Soudanese, as your escort. The vessel
was well fitted and in perfect order. We knew the time
you ought to have occupied, provided no accident
occurred, and as your instructions were positively to
depart from Stanley Falls, as soon as the cow promised
by our friend Ngalyema was aboard, and if she was not
forthcoming within an hour you were to slip away down
river. Assuming that no accident happened and that
you obeyed orders, you should have been here on the
120 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. evening of the 16th, or on the 17th at the latest. You
June 24. ^ n()t arr i ve unt i} 5 p M on fae 22nd.
" We have no telegraphs here, or posts. As we could
gain no intelligence of you, my anxiety about you
created doubts. As one day after another passed, doubts
became actual dread that something unaccountable had
occurred. Had you struck a snag, run aground, like
the Stanley and Royal did, as almost all steamers do,
had you been assaulted by natives in the night like
Captain Deane in the A. I. A. at Bunga, had your
Soudanese mutinied as they threatened to do at Lukungu,
had you been shot as a Soudanese regiment shot all
their white officers in the Soudan once, had you been
detained by force because Tippu-Tib had been over
persuaded to do by those young fire-eaters of Arabs at
the Falls, had you quarrelled with those young fellows,
the two Salims, as Stairs and Jephson did below Stanley
Pool. If not, what had occurred ? Could I, could
anybody suggest anything else ? "
" But I was obliged "
" Never mind, my dear Major, say no more about it.
Don't think of defending yourself. I am not mentioning
these things to complain of you, but replying to your
question. All is well that ends safely.
" Now as to Tippu-Tib. I have nothing to do with
Tippu-Tib, but from necessity, for your sake as well
as mine. He claims this as his territory. We
are on it as his friends. Supposing we had not made
agreement with him, how long should we be left to
prepare for the march to the Albert, or how long would
you be permitted to remain here, before you had to
answer the question why you were on his territory ?
Could I possibly leave you here, with my knowledge of
what they are capable of alone ? With eighty rifles
against probably 3000, perhaps 5000 guns? Why,
Major, I am surprised that you who have seen Stanley
Falls, and some hundreds of the Arabs should ask
the question ?
" You have accompanied Tippu-Tib and nearly a
hundred of his followers from Zanzibar. You have seen
CONVERSATION WITH MAJOR BARTTELOT. 121
what boyish delight they took in their weapons, their is&7.
Winchesters, and valuable double-barrelled rifles. You June 24 -
know the story of Deane's fight at Stanley Falls. You Yambu ^ u
know that Tippu-Tib is vindictive, that his fiery nephews
would like a fight better than peace. You know that
he meditated war against the Congo State, and that I
had to pass on a relief mission through a portion of his
territory. Why how can you grown to the rank of
Major ask such questions, or doubt the why and
wherefore of acts which are as clear as daylight ?
" Our transport the Madura was in Zanzibar harbour.
The owner of this district, as he calls himself, was pre-
paring munitions against all white men on the Congo,
resenting and resentful. Would it have been prudent
for me to have left this man in such a state ? That he
prepared for war against the State did riot materially
affect me, but that he intended doing so while I had to
pass through his territory, and in his neighbourhood on
a humane mission was everything. Therefore I was as
much interested in this affair of patching up a peace
between the Congo State and King Leopold as His
Majesty himself was, and more so indeed.
" And I suppose you will ask me next how does it
affect your personal interests ? Have you not told me
over and over again that you are burning to accom-
pany us, that you would infinitely prefer marching to
waiting here ? And is it not understood according
to your letter of instructions that failing Tippu-
Tib's appearance with his 600 carriers, you are to
make double-stages, or triple-stages rather than stay at
Yambuya ?
" Look at these pencilled calculations on this paper-
nay, you can keep it, if you please. They represent
what you can do with your own men, and what you can
do assuming that Tippu-Tib really keeps to the letter of
his contract.
"Now I have grounded my instructions principally
on your impetuous answer to me at Bolobo. * By Jove !
I will not stay a day at Yambuya after I get my column
together ! '
122 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887 " See here ! The letter says ' It may happen that
June 24. Xippu-Tib has sent some men, but not sent enough ;
buya ' therefore, you know, use your discretion ; dispense with
No. 7, provisions, such as rice, beans, peas, millet,
biscuits. See how many sacks of provisions you can
issue out to your men they will eat them fast enough,
I warrant you.'
' It goes on ' If you still cannot march, then it
would be better to make marches of six miles twice over
that is, to go one march of six miles, and then return
to fetch another lot, and march forward again. Such as
my work was on the Congo, when with 68 men I made
33 round trips on the stretch of 52 miles to take 2000
loads 5 immense waggons and make a waggon road,
building bridges, etc.' That pencilled paper in your
hand informs you how many miles you can do in this
fashion in six months.
" But this is how my pact with Tippu-Tib affects you
personally. If Tippu-Tib performs his contract faith-
fully, then on the arrival of the Stanley with Messrs.
Ward, Troup, and Bonny, and their men, you can set
out from Yambuya within a day or two, and perhaps
overtake us, or on our return from the Albert we shall
meet before many days.
" Now which would you personally prefer doing ?
Travelling backwards and forwards from camp to camp,
twice, or perhaps thrice, or have Tippu-Tib with 600
carriers to help your 200 carriers, and march at a swing-
ing pace through the woods on our track, straight for
the Albert Nyanza ? "
" Oh, there is not a doubt of it. I should prefer
marching straight away and try and catch up with you.
Naturally."
" Well, do you begin to understand why I have been
sweet, and good, and liberal to Tippu-Tib ? Why I have
fiven him free passage and board for himself and
)llowers from Zanzibar to Stanley Falls ? Why I have
shared the kid and the lamb with him ? "
" Quite."
" Not quite yet, I am afraid, Major, otherwise you
CONVERSATION WITH MAJOR BARTTELOT. 123
would not have doubted me. There is still a serious iss?.
reason. June 24
" Assuming, for instance, that I had not brought Yambu y a -
Tippu-Tib here, that the Arabs at Stanley Falls were
not wrathy with white men for Deane's affair, or that
they would fear attacking you. They had but to affect
friendship with you, sell you goats and food, and then
tell your Zanzibaris that their settlement was but six or
seven days away where they had plenty of rice and
fish and oil to tempt three-fourths of your men to desert
in a few days, while you were innocently waiting for the
Bolobo contingent ; and no sooner would the other
fellows have reached here than they would hear of the
desertion of their comrades for the Falls, and follow suit
either wholesale or by twos and threes, sixes and tens,
until you would have been left stranded completely. Is
it not the fear of this desertion that was one of the
reasons I chose the Congo ? Having Tippu-Tib as my
friend and engaged to me, I have put a stop to the
possibility of any wholesale desertion.
" Let these reasons sink into your mind, Major, my
dear fellow. Yet withal, your column may be ruined if
you are not very careful. Be tender and patient with
your people, for they are as skittish as young colts.
Still, it was with these people, or men like them, that I
crossed Africa followed the course of the Congo to the
sea, and formed the Congo State."
" Well, now, say do you think Tippu-Tib will keep
his contract, and bring his 600 people ? " asked the Major.
" You ought to know that as well as I myself. What
did he say to you before you left him ? "
" He said he would be here in nine days, as he told
you at Bangala. Inshallah ! " replied the Major,
mimicking the Arab.
" If Tippu-Tib is here in nine days, it will be the
biggest wonder I have met."
" Why ? " asked the Major, looking up half wonder-
ingly.
" Because to provide 600 carriers is a large order. He
will not be here in fifteen days or even twenty days. We
124 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. must be reasonable with the man. He is not an European
taught to be rigidly faithful to his promise. Inshallah !
l ' was it he said? To-morrow Inshallah means the day
after or five days hence, or ten days. But what does
it matter to you if he does not come within twenty days ?
The Stanley will not be here until the 10th, or perhaps
the middle of August ; that will be about seven weeks
forty-two days hence. He has abundance of time. What
do you want to look after 600 men in your camp doing
nothing, waiting for the steamer ? Idle men are
mischievous. No ; wait for him patiently until the
Stanley comes, and if he has not appeared by that time
he will not come at all."
" But it will be a severe job for us if he does not
appear at all, to carry 500 or 600 loads with 200
carriers, to and fro, backwards and forwards, day after
day ! "
" Undoubtedly, my dear Major, it is not a light
task by any means. But which would you prefer ; stay
here, waiting for us to return from the Albert, or to
proceed little by little gaining something each day
and be absorbed in your work ? "
" Oh, my God ! I think staying here for months
would be a deuced sight the worse."
" Exactly what I think, and, therefore, I made these
calculations for you. I assure you, Major, if I were
sure that you could find your way to the Albert, I would
not mind doing this work of yours myself, and appoint
you commander of the advance column, rather than
have any anxiety about you."
" But tell me, Mr. Stanley, how long do you suppose
it will be before we meet ? "
" God knows. None can inform me what lies ahead
here, or how far the forest extends inland. Whether
there are any roads, or what kind of natives, cannibals, in-
corrigible savages, dwarfs, gorillas. I have not the least
idea. I wish I had ; and would give a handsome sum
for the knowledge even. But that paper in your hand, on
which I have calculated how long it will take me to
march to the Albert Nyanza, is based on this fact. In
CONVERSATION WITH MAJOR BARTTELOT. 125
1874 and 1875 I travelled 720 miles in 103 days. The
distance from here to the Albert Nyanza is about 330 June 24<
geographical miles in a straight line. Well, in 1874-75, Yamba 3 ra -
I travelled 330 geographical miles Bagamoyo to
Vinyata, in Ituru, in 64 days ; from Lake Uhimba to
Ujiji, 330 miles, in 54 days. These were, of course,
open countries, with tolerably fair roads, whereas this
is absolutely unknown. Is it all a forest ? then it will
be an awful work. How far does the forest reach
inland? A hundred two hundred three hundred
miles ? There is no answer. Let us assume we can
do the journey to the Albert in three months ; that I
am detained a fortnight, and that I am back in
three months afterwards. Well, I shall meet you coming
toward me, if Tippu-Tib is not with you, the latter
part of October or November. It is all down on that
paper.
" But it is immaterial. The thing has to be done.
We will go ahead, we will blaze the trees, and mark our
track through the forest for you. We will avail ourselves
of every advantage any path easterly will suit me
until I bore through and through it, and come out on
the plains or pastureland. And where we go, you can
go. If we can't go on, you will hear from us somehow.
Are you now satisfied ? "
" Perfectly," he replied. " I have it all here," touching
his forehead " and this paper and letter will be my
reminders. But there is one thing I should like to
speak about, it refers to something you said to me in
London."
" Ah, indeed. What was said that was in any way
peculiar ? " I asked.
" Well "--here there was a little hesitation- " dp you
remember when Mr. - , of the India Office, intro-
duced me to you ? The words you used sounded
strangely, as though someone had been warning you
against me."
"My dear Barttelot, take my word for it, I don t
remember to have heard the name of Barttelot before I
heard your name. But you interest me. What could
126 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. I have possibly said that was any way peculiar to cling
June 24. Q y Our me mory like this ? I remember the circum-
Yambuya " stance well?"
" The fact is," he said, " you said something about
' forbearance,' which reminded me that I had heard that
word before, when General - - pitched into me about
punishing a Somali mutineer in the desert during the
Soudan campaign. I was all alone with the Somalis
when they turned on me, and I sprang upon the ring-
leader at last when there was no other way of reducing
them to order and pistolled him, and at once the Somalis
became quiet as lambs. I thought that General - ,
who is not remarkable for goodwill to me, had mentioned
the affair to you."
" Indeed, I never heard the story before, and I do
not understand how General - - could have warned
me, considering he could not have known you were
going to apply for membership. It was your own face
which inspired the word forbearance. Your friend
introduced you to me as a distinguished officer full of
pluck and courage ; upon which I said that those
qualities were common characteristics of British officers,
but I would prefer to hear of another quality which
would be of equal value for a peculiar service in Africa
and that was forbearance. You will excuse me now,
I hope, for saying that I read on your face immense
determination and something like pugnacity. Now, a
pugnacious fellow, though very useful at times, you
know, is not quite so useful for an expedition like this
which is to work in an atmosphere of irritability as a
man who knows not only how and when to fight, but
also how to forbear. Why, a thousand causes provoke
irritation and friction here between himself and fellow-
officers, his own followers and natives, and frequently
between himself and his own person. Here is bad food
always, often none at all, a miserable diet at the best, no
stimulant, incessant toil and worry, intense discomfort,
relaxed muscles, weariness amounting to fainting, and,
to cap all, dreadful racking fevers, urging one to curse
the day he ever thought of Africa. A pugnacious man
CONVERSATION WITH MAJOR BARTTELOT. 127
is naturally ill-tempered, and unless he restrains his .1887.
instincts, and can control his impulses, he is in hot June 24 -
water every minute of his existence, and will find cross Y
rubs with every throb of his heart. To be able to
forbear, to keep down rigorously all bitter feelings, to
let the thoughts of his duty, his position, plead against
the indulgence of his passions. Ah, that quality, while
it does not diminish courage, prevents the waste of
natural force ; but I don't wish to preach to you, you
know what I mean.
" And now to close one word more about Tippu-Tib.
Do you see that Maxim out there with its gaping
muzzle. I regard Tippu-Tib somewhat as I do that.
It is an excellent weapon for defence. A stream of
bullets can be poured out of it, but it may get jammed,
and its mechanism become deranged from rust or want
of good oil. In that event we rely on our Reming-
tons, and Winchester Repeaters. If Tippu-Tib is dis-
posed to help us he will be a most valuable auxiliary
failure becomes impossible, we shall complete our work
admirably. If he is not disposed, then we must do what
we can with our own men, and goodwill covers a multi-
tude of errors.
" Do you remember that in 1876 Tippu-Tib broke his
contract with me, and returned to Nyangwe, leaving me
alone. Well, with about 130 of my own men, I drove my
way down the Congo despite his sneer. You said you
met Dr. Lenz, the Austrian traveller, at Lamu, after
having failed to reach Emin Pasha. Why did he fail ?
He relied on Tippu-Tib alone ; he had no private reserve
of force to fall back upon. You ha ve^ over 200 carriers
and 50 soldiers, besides servants and efficient companions.
On the Congo work I was promised a contingent of
natives to assist me. Only a few came, and those
deserted ; but I had a faithful reserve of sixty-eight men
they were the fellows who made the Congo State.
You remember my letter to the Times, where I said,
' We do not want Tippu-Tib to assist us in finding Emin
Pasha. We want him to carry ammunition, and on his
return to bring away ivory to help pay the expenses of
128 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. the Mission.' Then, as a last proof of how I regard
amL 2 Ti PP u - Tib > do not for g et tnat written order to Lieu-
tenant Stairs a few days ago, to rake his settlement
with the machine gun upon the least sign of treachery.
You have read that letter. You ought to know that the
gage of battle is not thrown in the face of a trusted
friend.
" Now, Major, my dear fellow, don't be silly. I know
you feel sore because you are not to go with us in the
advance. You think you will lose some kudos. Not a
bit of it. Ever since King David, those who remain
with the stuff, and those who go to the war, receive the
same honours. Besides, I don't like the word 'kudos.'
The kudos impulse is like the pop of a ginger-beer
bottle, good for a V.C. or an Albert medal, but it
effervesces in a month of Africa. It is a damp squib,
Major. Think rather of Tennyson's lines :
" Not once or twice in our fair island story
Has the path of duty been the way to glory."
There, shake hands upon this, Major. For us the word
is ' Right Onward ' ; for you ' Patience and Forbearance.'
I want my tea. I am dry with talking."
On the 25th the stockade was completed all round
the camp, the ditch was approaching completion. Bart-
telot superintended the works on one side ; Jephson, in
shirt-sleeves, looked over another. Nelson was dis-
tributing the European provisions share and share
alike ; our Doctor, cheery, smiling, anxious as though he
were at a surgical operation, was constructing a gate,
and performed the carpenter's operation in such a manner
that I wrote in my diary that evening, " He is certainly
one of the best fellows alive. " Jameson was busy copy-
ing the letter of instructions. Stairs was in bed with
a severe bilious fever.
A Soudanese soldier, as innocent as a lamb cropping
sweet grass before a fox's covert, trespassed for the sake
of loot near a native village, and was speared through
the abdomen. It is the second fatal case resulting from
looting. It will not be our last. We place a Soudanese
MEMORANDUM FOE OFFICERS OF ADVANCE COLUMN. 129
on guard ; his friend comes along, exchanges a word or 1887.
two with him, and passes on, with the completest un- June 25 -
consciousness of danger that can be imagined. If not Yambu J ra -
slain outright, he returns with a great gash in his
body and a look of death in his face. The Zanzibar! is
set to labour at cutting wood or collecting manioc ; he
presently drops his task utters an excuse for with-
drawing for a moment a thought glances Across his
vacuous mind, and under the impulse he hastes away,
to be reported by-and-by as missing.
On the 26th I drew out a memorandum for the officers
of the Advance Column, of which the following is a
copy :
We propose to commence our march the day after to-morrow, the 28th
of June, 1887.
The distance we have to traverse is about 330 geographical miles in an
air line or about 550 miles English, provided we do not find a path more
than ordinarily winding.
If we make an average of ten miles per day we ought to be able to
reach the Albert within two months.
In 1871 my Expedition after Livingstone performed 360 English miles
in 54 days = about 62 miles per day.
In 1874 my Expedition across Africa, performed 360 English miles in
64 days, viz., from Bagamoyo to Vinyata = 51 miles per day.
In 1874-75 the same Expedition reached Lake Victoria from Bagamoyo,
720 miles distance in 103 days = 7 miles per day.
In 1876 the same Expedition traversed 360 miles, the distance from
Lake Uhimba to Ujiji in 59 days = 6^ miles per day.
Therefore if we travel the distance to Kavalli, say 550 miles at an
average of 6 miles per day, we should reach Lake Albert about the last
day of September.
A conception of the character of more than half of the country to be
traversed may be had by glancing at our surroundings. It will be a
bush and forested country with a native path more or less crooked con-
necting the various settlements of the tribes dwelling in it.
The track now and then will be intersected by others connecting the
tribes north of our route and those south of it.
The natives will be armed with shields, spears and knives, or with bows
and arrows.
As our purpose is to march on swiftly through the country, we take the
natives considerably by surprise. They cannot confederate or meet us in
any force, because they will have no time. Whatever hostilities we may
meet will be the outcome of impulse, and that naturally an angry one.
Officers must therefore be prompt to resist these impulsive attacks, and
should at all times now see that their Winchester magazines are loaded,
and their bearers close to them. Side arms should not be dispensed with
on any account.
The order of the march will be as follows :
At dawn the reveille will sound as usual.
First by the Soudanese trumpeter attached to No. 1 Company.
VOL. I. J
130
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887.
June 26.
Ifambuya.
Second by the bugle attached to Captain Stairs's Company, No. 2
Captain Stairs.
Third by the trumpeter attached to the No. 3 Company Captain
Nelson.
Fourth by the drummer attached to Captain Jephson's No. 4 Company.
Officers will feed early on coffee and biscuit, and see that their men
are also strengthening themselves for the journey.
At 6 A.M. the march of the day will begin, led by a band of -~/0 pioneers
armed with rifles, bill-hooks and axes, forming the advance guard under
myself.
The main body will then follow after 15 minutes, led by an officer
whose turn it is to be at the head of it, whose duty will be specially to
see that he follows the route indicated by " blazing " or otherwise.
This column will consist of all bearers, and all men sick or well who
are not detailed for rear guard. The major part of three companies will
form the column. Close to the rear of it, keeping well up, will be the
officer whose turn it is to maintain order in rear of the main body.
The rear guard will consist of 30 men under an officer selected for the
day to protect the column from attacks in the rear. These men will not
be loaded with anything beyond their private kits. No member of the
Expedition must be passed by the rear guard. All stragglers must be
driven on at all costs, because the person left behind is irretrievably lost.
At the head of the main body will be the head-quarter tents and private
luggage, immediately succeeding the officer in command. This officer
will also have to be on the alert for signals by trumpets, to communicate
them to those in the rear, or be ready to receive signals from the front
and pass the word behind.
The advance guard will " blaze " the path followed, cut down obstruct-
ing creepers, and, on arrival at camp, set to at once for building the boma
or bushfence. As fast as each company arrives assistance must be given
lor this important work of defence. No camp is to be considered complete
until it is fenced H round by bush
or trees. Those unemployed in
this duty will erect tents.
The boma must be round with
two gates well masked by at
least five yards of bush.
The diameter of the camp
should be about 250 feet. Tents
and baggage piled in the centre,
the huts will range around an
inner circle of about 200 feet in
diameter.
The above relates only to the
circumstances attending the
transit of a caravan through a
dangerous country, unattended
by more than the troubles natu-
rally arising from the impulsive
attacks of savages.
Ihe pulse of the country which we shall traverse will.be felt by the
advance guard, of course. If the obstacles in the front are serious, and
threaten to be something more than a mere impulse, or temporary,
messages will be sent to the main body announcing their character.
Wherever practicable we shall camp in villages, if the natives have
deserted them, for the sake of obtaining food, but such villages must be
rendered defensive at once. Officers should remember that it is in the
DIAGRAM OF OUR FOREST CAMPS.
MEMORANDUM FOR OFFICERS OF ADVANCE COLUMN. 131
nature of their black soldiers, Soudanese, Somalis or Zanzibaris, to be 1887
thoughtless and indifferent, to scatter themselves about in the most heed- j une 26
less manner. They must take my assurance that more lives are lost in
this manner than by open warfare. Therefore their men's lives 1 consider
are in the hands of their officers, and the officer who will not relax his
energy and rigid enforcement of orders until everything is made snug and
tight for the night, will be the most valuable assistant in this Expedition
for me. Arriving at the intended halting place for the night, if a village,
the officer should first cast his eyes about for lodgment of his people ;
select such as will be uniform with those already occupied by the preceding
company, and those to be occupied by the succeeding company or com-
panies ; then turn to and destroy all those lying without the occupied
circle, or use their timbers, all material in the vicinity to defend his
quarters from night attack by fire or spear. A cue will be given when
and how to do things by the conduct of the advance guard, but the
officer must not fail to ascertain what this cue is, nor wait to be told
every petty detail. He must consider himself as the Father of his
Company, and act always as a wise leader should act.
At all such village camps, Lieutenant Stairs will see to the nightly
guards being placed at the more accessible points, every company serving
out details as may be necessary.
During the first week we will not attempt any very long marches, that
the people and ourselves may be broken in gently, but after a fourth of
the distance has been made the marches will sensibly lengthen, and I
anticipate that, before the half of the journey has been performed, we shall
be capable of making wonderful progress.
Further memoranda will be furnished when necessary.
YAMBUYA. (Signed) HENRY M. STANLEY.
June 26^, 1887. Commanding Expedition.
I close this chapter with a quotation from my diary
made on the last evening.
" Yambuya, June 27th. Our men claimed a holiday
to-day because it had been deferred until the steamers
were despatched, and the camp was fortified for the
protection of the garrison. Numbers of things had also
to be done. Companies had to be re-organized, since
several had sickened since leaving Bolobo, the weak had
to be picked out, and the four companies selected for
the march ought to be in as perfect condition as possible.
Our pioneer's tools required numbering. Out of one
hundred bill-hooks there were only twenty-six, out of
one hundred axes there were left twenty-two, out of one
hundred hoes there were only sixty-one, out of one
hundred shovels there were but sixty-seven. All the rest
had been stolen, and sold to the natives or thrown away.
It is a trying work to look after such reckless people.
132 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. ( Three hundred and eighty-nine souls will march to-
JnB morrow God permitting into the absolutely unknown.
iya * From a native I have heard of names of tribes, or
sections of tribes, but of their strength or disposition I
know nothing.
Yesterday we made blood-brotherhood with one of the
chiefs of Yambuya. As the Major was Commandant of
the post, he went bravely through the ceremony, which
was particularly disgusting. On the flowing blood a
pinch of dirty salt was placed, and this had to be licked.
The chief performed his part as though he loved it. The
Major looked up and saw the cynical faces of his friends
and was mortified.
" ' To ensure peace ! '
" ' Even so/ replied the Major, and sacrificed his taste.
" These forest natives have not been able to win any
great regard from me yet. They are cowardly, and at
the same time vicious. They lie oftener than any open
country folk. I do not creolit any statement or profes-
sion made by them. At the same time I hope that
after better acquaintance there will be a change. This
chief received a liberal gift from the hand of the Major,
and in return he received a fortnight-old chick and a
feathered bonnet of plaited cane. The oft-promised
goat and ten fowls had not yet been seen. And the
blood of a Soudanese soldier has been spilled, and we
have not avenged it. We are either so poor in spirit, or
so indifferent to the loss of a man, that a stalwart soldier,
worth twenty of these natives, can be slain unavenged.
Not only that, but we entreat them to come often and
visit us, for they have fish and goats, fowls, eggs, and
what not to sell of which we would be buyers. This
perhaps will go on for some weeks more.
" It is raining to-night, and the morrow's march will
be an uncomfortable one. Stairs is so sick that he
cannot move, and yet he is anxious to accompany us.
It is rather rash to undertake carrying a man in his
condition, though, if death is the issue, it comes as easy
in the jungle as in the camp. Dr. Parke has made me
exceedingly uncomfortable by saying that it is enteric
DIVISION OF THE RELIEF EXPEDITION AT YAMBUYA. 133
fever. I lean to bilious fever. We shall put him in a issr.
hammock and trust for a favourable issue."
The Advance Force will consist of :
No. 1 company
113 men
and boys 99 rifles
2
90
85
*' )j
90
87
* 4
90
86
Officers Self
1
Stairs
1
Nelson .
1
Jephson .
1
Parke .
1
))
European servant .
1
389_ 357
The garrison of Yambuya consists of :
Soudanese ... .44 men 44 rifles
Zanzibaris .
Barttelot's servants
Jameson's
Sowahis
Sick men
Barttelot personally
Jameson
129 87
Contingent at Bolobo to be joined to garrison of
Yambuya :
71 ,
. 3
. 2
. 5
. 2
. 1
1
38
'3
2
Zanzibaris
John Kose Troup
Herbert Ward
William Bonny
Advance force .
Yambu\ a garrison
Bolobo, Kinshassa, &c.
128 men and boys
J-
i ::
131 men
389 men
129
131 .,
649
52 rifles
52
357 rifles
87
"
496
Loss of men from Zanzibar to
Yambuya .
57
706
28
524
134 JAT DARKEST AFRICA.
CHAPTER VII.
TO P A N G A FALL So
An African road Our mode of travelling through the forests Farewell
to Jameson and the Major 160 days in the forest The Rapids of
Yambuya Attacked by natives of Yankonde Eest at the village
of Bahunga Description of our march - The poisoned Skewers
Capture of six Babali Dr. Parke and the bees A tempest in the
forest Mr. Jephson puts the steel boat together The village of
Bukanda Refuse heaps of the villages The Aruwimi river scenery
Villages of the Bakuti and the Bakoka The Rapids of Gweng-
were The boy Bakula Our " chop and coffee " The islands near
Bandangi The Baburu dwarfs The unknown course of the river
The Somalis Bartering at Mariri and Mupe The Aruwimi at
Mupe The Babe manners, customs, and dress Jephson's two
adventures Wasp Rapids The chief of the Bwamburi Our camp
at My-yui Canoe accident An abandoned village Arrival at
Panga Falls Description of the Falls.
1887. AN African road generally is a foot-track tramped by
JUE 28. gravel exceeding smoothness and hardness as of asphalt
uya ' when the season is dry. It is only twelve inches wide
from the habit of the natives to travel in singlo file one
after another. When such a track is old it resembles a
winding and shallow gutter, the centre has been trodden
oftener than the sides rain-water has rushed along and
scoured it out somewhat the sides of the path have been
raised by humus and dust, the feet of many passengers
have brushed twigs and stones and pressed the dust aside.
A straight path would be shorter than the usual one
formed by native travel by a third in every mile on an
average. This is something like what we hoped to meet
in defiling out of the gato of the intrenched camp at
Yambuya, because during four preceding Expeditions into
Africa we had never failed to follow such a track for
hundreds of miles, Yambuya consisted of a series of
villages. Their inhabitants must have neighbours to the
AN AFRICAN ROAD.
135
Eastward as well as to the Southward or Westward. Why
not ?
We marched out of the gate, company after company
in single file. Each with its flag, its trumpeter or
drummer, each with its detail of supernumeraries, with
fifty picked men as advance guard to handle the billhook
and axe, to cut saplings, " blaze," or peel a portion of the
bark of a tree a hand's-breadth, to sever the leaves and
slash at the rattan, to remove all obtrusive branches
that might interfere with the free passage of the hun-
MARCHING THROUGH THE FOREST.
dreds of loaded porters, to cut trees to lay across streams
for their passage, to form zeribas or bomas of bush and
branch around the hutted camp at the end of the day's
travel. The advance guard are to find a path, or, if none
can be found, to choose the thinnest portions of the
jungle and tunnel through without delay, for it is most
fatiguing to stand in a heated atmosphere with a weighty
load on the head. If no thinner jungle can be found,
then through anything, however impenetrable it may
appear ; they must be brisk " chap-chap " as we say, or
an ominous murmur will rise from the impatient carriers
136 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. behind. They must be clever and intelligent in wood-
June 28. cra ft . a greenhorn, or as we call him " goee-goee," must
Yambuya.
hundred weary fellows are not to be trifled with, they
must be brave also quick to repel assault arrows are
poisonous, spears are deadly their eyes must be quick
to search the gloom and shade, with sense alert to recogni-
tion, and ready to act on the moment. Dawdlers and
goee-goees are unbearable ; they must be young, lithe,
springy my 300 behind me have no regard for the
ancient or the corpulent they would be smothered with
chaff and suffocated with banter. Scores of voices would
cry out, " Wherein lies this fellow's merit ? Is it all in
his stomach ? Nay, it is in his wooden back tut his
head is too big for a scout. He has clearly been used to
hoeing. What does the field hand want on the
Continent ? You may see he is only a Banian slave !
Nay, he is only a Consul's freed man ! Bosh ! he is a
mission boy." Their bitter tongues pierce like swords
through the armour of stupidity, and the bill-hooks with
trenchant edges are wielded most manfully, and the
bright keen axes flash and sever the saplings, or slice a
broad strip of bark from a tree, and the bush is pierced,
and the jungle gapes open, and fast on their heels con-
tinuously close presses the mile-long caravan.
This is to be the order, and this the method of the
march, and I have stood observing the files pass by until
the last of the rear guard is out of the camp, and the
Major and Jameson and the garrison next crowd out to
exchange the farewell.
" Now, Major, my dear fellow, we are in for it. Neck
or nothing ! Remember your promise and we shall meet
before many months."
" I vow to goodness. I shall be after you sharp. Let
me once get those fellows from Bolobo and nothing shall
stop me."
" Well, then, God bless you keep a stout heart and
Jameson old man the same to you."
Captain Nelson, who heard all this, stepped up in his
turn to take a parting grasp, and I strode on to the
ORDER WHILE MARCHING THROUGH THE FOREST. 137
front, while the Captain placed himself at the head of the iss?.
rear guard. y j
The column had halted at the end of the villages or
rather the road that Nelson the other day had com-
menced.
" Which is the way, guide ? " I asked to probably
the proudest soul in the column for it is a most
exalted position to be at the head of the line. He was
in a Greekish costume with a Greekish helmet a la
Achilles.
THE KIKANGOZI, OR FOREMOST MAN.
" This, running towards the sunrise/' he replied.
" How many hours to the next village ? "
" God alone knows," he answered.
" Know ye not one village or country beyond here V
" Not one ; how should I? M he asked.
This amounted to what the wisest of us knew.
" Well, then, set on in the name of God, and God be
ever with us. Cling to any track that leads by the river
until we find a road."
" Bismillah !" echoed the pioneers, the Nubian trumpets
138 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. blew the signal of " move on," and shortly the head of
June 28. fa Q column disappeared into the thick bush beyond the
Yambuya. u ^ mos ^ bounds of the clearings of Yambuya.
This was on the 28th day of June, and until the 5th
of December, for 160 days, we marched through the
forest, bush and jungle, without ever having seen a bit
of greensward of the size of a cottage chamber floor.
Nothing but miles and miles, endless miles of forest, in
various stages of growth and various degrees of altitude,
according to the ages of the trees, with varying thickness
of undergrowth according to the character of the trees
which afforded thicker or slighter shade. It is to the
description of the march through this forest and to its
strange incidents I propose to confine myself for the next
few chapters, as it is an absolutely unknown region
opened to the gaze and knowledge of civilized man for
the first time since the waters disappeared and were
gathered into the seas, and the earth became dry land.
Beseeching the reader's patience, I promise to be as little
tedious as possible, though there is no other manuscript
or missal, printed book or pamphlet, this spring of the
year of our Lord 1890, that contains any account of this
region of horrors other than this book of mine.
With the temperature of 86 in the shade we travelled
along a path very infrequently employed, which wound
under dark depths of bush. It was a slow process,
interrupted every few minutes by the tangle. The
bill-hooks and axes, plied by fifty men, were constantly
in requisition ; the creepers were slashed remorselessly,
lengths of track one hundred yards or so were as fair
as similar extents were difficult.
At noon we looked round the elbow of the Aruwimi,
which is in view of Yambuya, and saw above, about
four miles, another rapid with its glancing waters as it
waved in rollers in the sunshine ; the rapids of Yambuya
were a little below us. Beneath the upper rapids quite
a fleet of canoes hovered about it. There was much
movement and stir, owing, of course, to the alarm that
the Yambuyas had communicated to their neighbours.
At 4 P.M. we observed that the point we had gazed at
ATTACKED BY NATIVES OF YANKONDE. 139
abreast of the rapids consisted of islands. These were
now being crowded with the women and children of
Yankonde, whom as yet we had not seen. About a
hundred canoes formed in the stream crowded with
native warriors, and followed the movements of the
column as it appeared and disappeared in the light and
into the shadows, jeering, mocking, and teasing.
The head of the column arrived at the foot of a broad
cleared road, twenty feet wide and three hundred yards
long, and at the further end probably three hundred
natives of the town of Yankonde' stood gesticulating,
shouting, with drawn bows in their hands. In all my
experience of Africa I had seen nothing of this kind.
The pioneers halted, reflecting, and remarking somewhat
after this manner : " What does this mean ? The
pagans have carved a broad highway out of the bush
to their town for us, and yet there they are at the other
end, ready for a fight ! It is a trap, lads, of some kind,
so look sharp."
With the bush they had cut they had banked and
blocked all passage to the forest on either side of the
road for some distance. But, with fifty pairs of sharp
eyes searching around above and below, we were not
long in finding that this apparent highway through the
bush bristled with skewers six inches long sharpened at
both ends, which were driven into the ground half their
length, and slightly covered with green leaves so care-
lessly thrown over them that we had thought at first
these strewn leaves were simply the effect of clearing bush.
Forming two lines of twelve men across the road, the
first line was ordered to pick out the skewers, the
second line was ordered to cover the workers with their
weapons, and at the first arrow shower to fire. A
dozen scouts were sent on either flank of the road
to make their way into the village through the woods.
We had scarcely advanced twenty yards along the
cleared way before volumes of smoke broke out of the
town, and a little cloud of arrows came towards us, but
falling short. A volley was returned, the skewers
were fast being picked out, and an advance was steadily
140 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. made until we reached the village at the same time
June 28. ^^ ^ scou t s rushed out of the underwood, and as
lde * all the pioneers were pushed forward the firing was
pretty lively, under cover of which the caravan pressed
through the burning town to a village at its eastern
extremity, as yet unfired.
Along the river the firing was more deadly. The
very noise was sufficient to frighten a foe so prone as
savages to rely on the terrors of sound, but unfortu-
nately the noise was as hurtful as it was alarming.
Very many, I fear, paid the penalty of the foolish
challenge. The blame is undoubtedly due to the
Yambuyas, who must have invented fables of the
most astounding character to cause their neighbours
to attempt stopping a force of nearly four hundred
rifles.
It was nearly 9 P.M. before the rear-guard entered
camp. Throughout the night the usual tactics were
resorted to by the savages to create alarm and disturb-
ance, such as vertically dropping assegais and arrows
heavily tipped with poison, with sudden cries, whoops,
howls, menaces, simultaneous blasts of horn-blowing
from different quarters, as though a general attack was
bout to be made. Strangers unacquainted with the
craftiness of these forest satyrs might be pardoned for
imagining that daylight only was required for our com-
plete extermination. Some of these tactics I knew
before in younger days, but there was still something
to be gleaned from the craft of these pure pagans.
The camp was surrounded by sentries, and the only
orders given were to keep strict silence and sharpen
their eyesight.
In the morning a narrow escape was reported. A
man had wakened to find a spear buried in the earth,
penetrating his sleeping cloth and mat on each side
of him, slightly pinning him to his bedding. Two were
slightly wounded with arrows.
We wandered about for ten minutes or so looking
for a track next morning, and at last discovered one
leading through a vast square mileage of manioc fields,
DESCRIPTION OF OUR MARCH FROM TANKONDE. 141
and at the little village of Bahunga, four miles S.E. of
Yankonde, we gladly rested, our object being not to June28 -
rush at first setting out after a long river voyage, but !
to accustom the people little by little to the long
journey before them.
On the 30th we lit on a path which connected a
series of fourteen villages, each separate and in line,
surrounded by their respective fields, luxuriant with
crops of manioc, or, as some call it, the cassava. We
did not fail to observe, however, that some disaster
had occurred many months before, judging from the
traces. The villages we passed through were mostly
newly built, in the sharp, conical candle-extinguisher
or rather four-angled spiry type ; burnt poles, ruins
of the former villages, marked the sites of former
dwellings. Here and there were blazings on trees,
and then I knew that Arabs and Manyuema must have
visited here probably Tippu-Tib's brother.
The following day our march was through a similar
series of villages, twelve in number, with a common,
well-trodden track running from one to another. In
this distance sections of the primeval forest separated
each village ; along the track were pitfalls for some kind
of large forest game, or bow-traps fixed for small animals,
such as rabbits, squirrels, rats, small monkeys. In the
neighbourhood of each village the skewers were plentiful
in the ground, but as yet no hurt had been received
from them.
Another serious inconvenience of forest travel was
experienced on this day. Every fifty yards or so a great
tree, its diameter breast high, lay prostrate across the
path over which the donkeys had to be assisted with a
frequency "that was becoming decidedly annoying.
Between twenty and fifty of these had to be climbed
over by hundreds of men, not all of whom were equally
expert at this novel travelling, and these obstructions by
the delays thus occasioned began to be complained of as
very serious impediments. The main approaches to the
many villages were studded with these poisoned skewers,
which made every one except the booted whites tread
142 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. most gingerly. Nor could the Europeans be altogether
July i. i n diff eren t ? for, slightly leaning, the skewer was quite
capable of piercing the thickest boot-leather and burying
the splinters of its head deep in the foot an agony of
so dreadful a nature that was worth the trouble of
guarding against.
At 3 P.M. we camped near some pools overhung by
water lilies far removed from a village, having had three
wounded during the traverse through the settlements.
This morning, about three hours before dawn, the camp
was wakened by howls, and loud and continued horn-
blowing. These were shortly after hushed, and the
voices of two men were heard so clear and distinct that
many like myself attempted to pierce the intense dark-
ness in the vain effort to see these midnight orators.
The first Speaker said, " Hey, strangers, where are you
going?"
The Parasite echoed, " Where are you going ? "
Speaker. This country has no welcome for you.
Parasite. No welcome for you.
Speaker. All men will be against you.
Parasite. Against you.
Speaker. And you will be surely slain.
Parasite. Surely slain.
Speaker. Ah-ah-ah-ah-ah-aah.
Parasite. Ah-ah-aaah.
Speaker. Ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh-ooooh.
Parasite. Ooh-ooh-ooooooh.
This parasite was such a palpable parasite, with such
a sense of humour that it raised such a chorus of
laughter so sudden, startling, and abrupt, that scared
speaker and parasite away in precipitate haste.
At dawn of the 2nd, feeling somewhat uneasy at the
fact that the track which brought us to these pools was
not made by man but by elephants, and feeling certain
that the people had made no provision of food beyond
the day, I sent 200 men back to the. villages to procure
each a load of manioc. By the manner these men per-
formed this duty, the reflection came into my mind that
they had little or no reasoning faculties, and that not a
DR. PAEKE AND THE BEES. 143
half of the 389 people then in the camp would emerge iss?.
out of Africa. They were now brimful of life and Jul >' ^
vitality their rifles were perfect, their accoutrements rankocd&
were new, and each possessed 10 rounds of cartridges.
With a little care for their own selves and a small por-
tion of prudence, there was no reason why they should
not nearly all emerge safe and sound, but they were so
crude, stolid, unreasoning, that orders and instructions
were unheeded, except when under actual supervision,
and, to supervise them effectually, I should require 100
English officers of similar intelligence and devotion to
the four then with me. In the meantime they will lose
their lives for trifles which a little sense would avoid,
and until some frightful calamity overtakes them I shall
never be able thoroughly to impress on their minds that
to lose life foolishly is a crime.
A party of scouts were also sent ahead along the track
to observe its general direction, and, about the same time
that the foragers returned, the scouts returned, having
captured six natives in the forest. They belonged to a
tribe called the Babali, and were of a light chocolate in
hue, and were found forming traps for game.
As we endeavoured to draw from them some informa-
tion respecting the country to which the track led, they
said, " We have but one heart. Don't you have two,"
which meant, Do not speak so fairly to us if you mean
any harm to us, and like all natives they asserted
strongly that they did not eat human meat, but that the
custom was practised by the Babanda, Babali, Babukwa
tribes, occupying the bank of the Aruwimi above Yan-
konde.
Soon after this interview with the natives, Dr. Parke,
observing the bees which fluttered about, had mentioned
to one of his brother officers that he did not think they
stung at all, upon which at the same moment a vicious
bee settling in his neck drove its sting into it to punish
him for his scornful libel. He then came to me and
reported the fact as a good joke, whereupon a second bee
attacked and wounded him almost in the same spot,
drawing from him an exclamation of pain. " By Jove !
144 IN DARKEST AFEICA.
1887. but they do sting awfully, though." " Just so," said I ;
July2 * "nothing like experience to stimulate reason."
Yankonde. A f , -i. . -, .. .*, . . . -, . .
Alter distributing the manioc, with an injunction to
boil the roots three times in different waters, we
resumed the march at 1 P.M. and camped at 4 o'clock.
The next day left the track and struck through the
huge towering forest and jungly undergrowth by compass.
My position in this column was the third from the
leader, so that I could direct the course. In order to
keep a steady movement, even if slow, I had to instruct
the cutters that each man as he walked should choose
an obstructing lliane, or obtrusive branch of bush, and
give one sharp cut and pass on the two head men were
confining themselves to an effective and broad " blaze "
on the trees, every ten yards or so, for the benefit of the
column, and, as the rear party would not follow us
for perhaps two months, we were very particular that
these " blazes " should be quite a hand's-breadth peel of
bark.
Naturally penetrating a trackless wild for the first
time the march was at a funereal pace, in some places at
the rate of 400 yards an hour, in other more open
portions, that is of less undergrowth, we could travel
at the rate of half, three-quarters, and even a mile per
hour so that from 6.30 A.M. to 11 A.M. when we halted
for lunch and rest, and from 12.30 P.M., to 3 o'clock or
4 P.M. in from six to seven hours per day, we could
make a march of about five miles. On the usual African
track seen in other regions we could have gone from
fourteen to eighteen miles during the same time.
Therefore our object was to keep by settlements, not
only to be assured of food, but in the hope of utilizing
the native roads. We shall see later how we fared.
At 4 P.M. of this day we were still on the march,
having passed through a wilderness of creeks, mud, thick
scum-faced quagmires green with duckweed into which
we sank knee-deep, and the stench exhaled from the
fetid slough was most sickening. We had just emerged
out of this baneful stretch of marshy ground, intersected
by lazy creeks and shallow long stream-shaped pools,
A TEMPEST IN THE FOREST. 145
when the forest became suddenly darkened, so dark
that I could scarcely read the compass, and a distant July 3<
murmur increasing into loud soughing and wrestling and YaDkor ' dd
tossing of branches and groaning of mighty trees
warned us of the approach of a tempest. As the
ground round about was most uninviting, we had to
press on through the increasing gloom, and then, as the
rain began to drip, we commenced to form camp. The
tents were hastily pitched over the short scrubby bush,
while bill-hooks crashed and axes rang, clearing a
space for the camp. The rain was cold and heavily
dripped, and every drop, large as a dollar on their
cotton clothes, sent a shiver through the men. The
thunder roared above, the lightning flashed a vivid
light of fire through the darkness, and still the weary
hungry caravan filed in until 9 o'clock. The rain was
so heavy that fires could not be lit, and until three in
the morning we sat huddled and crouching amid the
cold, damp, and reeking exhalations and minute spray.
Then bonfires were kindled, and around these scores of
flaming pyramids the people sat, to be warmed into
hilarious animation, to roast the bitter manioc, and to
still the gnawing pain of their stomachs.
On the 4th we struck N. by E., and in an hour
heard natives singing in concert afar off. We sent
scouts ahead to ascertain what it meant. We presently
heard firing which seemed to approach nearer. We
mustered the men in the nearest company, stacked
goods and deployed them as skirmishers. Then mes-
sengers came and reported that the scouts had struck
the river, and, as they were looking upon it, a canoe
advanced into view with its crew standing with drawn
bows and fixed arrows, which were flown at them at
once, and compelled the scouts to fire. We then
resumed the march, and at 8 A.M. we were on the river
again, in time to see a line of native canoes disappearing
round a bend on the opposite bank, and one canoe
abandoned tied to the bank with a goat.
Observing that the river was calm and free from
rapids, and desirous of saving the people from as much
VOL. i. K
146 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
IBS?, labour as circumstances would offer, the steel boat
July 4. sec ti ons were brought up to the bank, and Mr. Jephson,
Yankonde. i i -i i i n i
whose company had special charge of the Advance,
commenced to fit the sections together. In an hour
the forty-four burdens, which the vessel formed, had
been attached together and fitted to their respective
places and launched. As the boat weighed forty-four
loads and had a capacity of fifty loads, and at least ten
sick, we could then release ninety-eight people from the
fatigue of bearing loads and carrying Lieutenant Stairs,
who was still very ill. Mr. Jephson and crew were
despatched across river and the goat secured.
As the Advance was in the river, it was necessary
for the column to cling to the bank, not only for the
protection of the boat, but to be able to utilize the
stream for lessening labour. Want of regular food,
lack of variety, and its poor nutritive qualities, coupled
with the urgency which drove us on, requiring long
inarches and their resulting fatigue, would soon diminish
the strength of the stoutest. A due regard for the
people therefore must be shown, and every means
available for their assistance must be employed. There-
fore, the boat keeping pace with the column, we
travelled up-stream until 3 P.M. and camped.
On the 5th the boat and column moved up, as on
the day previous, and made six-and-half miles. The
river continued to be from 500 to 800 yards wide. The
bank was a trifle more open than in the interior,
though frequently it was impossible to move before
an impenetrable mass of jungle had been tunnelled to
allow our passage under the vault of close network of
branch and climber, cane, and reed above. At 2.30 we
reached the village of Bukanda. We had come across
no track, but had simply burst out of the bush and a
somewhat young forest with a clearing. In the middle
of the clearing by the river side was the village. This
fact made me think, and it suggested that if tracks were
not discoverable by land, and as the people were not
known to possess the power of aerial locomotion, that
communication was maintained by water.
THE VILLAGE OF THE BUKANDA. 149
We had reason to rejoice at the discovery of a village, iss7.
for since the 2nd the caravan subsisted on such tubers July> 5 -
of manioc as each man took with him on that date. Bukanda *
Had another day passed without meeting with a
clearing we should have suffered from hunger.
It was evening before the boat appeared, the passage of
rapids and an adventure with a flotilla of eleven canoes
had detained her. The canoes had been abandoned in
consequence, and the commander of the boat had secured
them to an island. One was reported to be a capacious
hollow log, capable of carrying nearly as much as the
boat. Since the river was the highway of the natives,
we should be wise to employ the stream, by which we
should save our men> and carry our sick as well as a
reserve of food. For we had been narrowly brought to
the verge of want on the last day, and we were utter
strangers in a strange land, groping our way through
darkness. The boat was sent back with an extra crew
to secure, the canoe and paddle her up to our camp.
Of course Bukanda had been abandoned long before
we reached it the village of cone huts was at our
disposal the field of manioc also. This custom also
was unlike anything I had seen in Africa before.
Previously the natives may have retired with their
women, but the males had remained with spear and target,
representing ownership. Here the very fowls had taken
to flight. It was clearly a region unsuitable for the
study of ethnology.
At noon of the 6th we defiled out of Bukanda
refurnished with provisions, and two hours later were in
camp in uninhabited space. We had devoted the
morning to cleaning and repairing rifles many of
whose springs were broken.
Some facts had already impressed themselves upon
us. We observed that the mornings were muggy and
misty that we were chilly and inclined to be cheerless
in consequence ; that it required some moral courage to
leave camp to brave the cold, damp, and fogginess
without, to brave the mud and slush, to ford creeks up
to the waist in water ; that the feelings were terribly
150 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. depressed in the dismal twilight from the want of
brightness and sunshine warmth ; and the depres-
1 a * sion caused by the sombre clouds and dull grey
river which reflected the drear daylight. The actual
temperature on these cold mornings was but seventy
to seventy- two degrees had we judged of it by our
cheerlessness it might have been twenty degrees less.
The refuse heaps of the little villages were large and
piled on the edge of the bank. They were a compost of
filth, sweepings of streets and huts, peelings of manioc,
and often of plantains with a high heap of oyster-shells.
Had I not much else to write about, an interesting
chapter on these composts, and the morals, manners,
and usages of the aborigines might be written. Just
as Owen could prefigure an extinct mammoth of the
dead ages from the view of a few bones, the history of
a tribe could be developed by me out of these refuse
heaps. Eevellirig in these fetid exhalations were
representatives of many insect tribes. Columns of ants
wound in and out with more exact formation than
aborigines could compose themselves, flies buzz in
myriads over the heaps, with the murmur of enjoyment,
butterflies which would have delighted Jameson's soul
swarmed exulting in their gorgeous colours, and a
perfect cloud of moths hovered above all.
The villages of the Bakuti were reached on the 7th,
after seven hours' slow marching and incessant cutting.
I occupied a seat in the boat on this day and observed
that the banks were from six to ten feet above the
river on either side, that there were numerous traces of
former occupation easily detected despite the luxuriance
of the young forest that had grown up and usurped
the space once occupied by villages and fields ; that either
wars or epidemics had disturbed the inhabitants twenty
years ago, and that as yet only one crocodile had been
seen on the Aruwimi, and only one hippo, which I took
to be a sure sign that there was not much pasture
in this region.
As the rowers urged the boat gently up the stream,
and I heard the bill-hooks and axes carving away
THE SCENERY ON THE ARUWIMI BANKS. 151
through bush and brake tangle and forest without 1887.
which scarcely a yard of progress could be made, I Jul y ? *
regretted more than ever that I had not insisted on
being allowed to carry out my own plan of having
fifteen whale-boats. What toil would have been saved,
and what anxiety would have been spared me.
On the 9th we gained, after another seven hours'
toiling and marching, the villages of the Bakoka.
Already the people began to look jaded and seedy.
Skewers had penetrated the feet of several, ulcers
began to attract notice by their growing virulence,
many people complained of curious affections in the
limbs. Stairs was slowly recovering.
We had passed so many abandoned clearings that our
expedition might have been supported for weeks by the
manioc which no owner claimed. It was very clear that
internecine strife had caused the migrations of the
tribes. The Bakoka villages were all stockaded, and
the entrance gates were extremely low.
The next day we passed by four villages all closely
stockaded, and on the 10th came 1 to the rapids of
Gwengwere. Here there were seven large villages
bordering the rapids and extending from below to above
the broken water. All the population had fled probably
to the opposite main, or to the islands in mid-river, and
every portable article was carried away except the
usual wreckage of coarse pottery, stools, and benches,
and back rests. The stockades were in good order and
villages intact. In one large village there were 210
conical huts, and two square sheds used for public
assemblies and smithies. This occupied a commanding
bluff sixty feet above the river, and a splendid view of
a dark grey silver stream, flanked by dense and lofty
walls of thickest greenest vegetation, was obtained.
Lieutenant Stairs was fast recovering from his long
attack of bilious fever ; my other companions enjoyed the
best of health, though our diet consisted of vegetables,
leaves of the manioc and herbs bruised and made into
patties. But on this day we had a dish of weaver-
birds furnished by the Doctor, who with his shot-gun
152 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. bagged a few of the thousands which had made their
10t nests on the village trees.
v*rl~ On the 1 1th we marched about a mile to give the^anoe-
men a chance to pole their vessels through the rapids
and the column a rest. The day following marched six
geographical miles, the river turning easterly, which was
our course. Several small rapids were passed without
accident. As we were disappearing from view of
Gwengwere', the population was seen scurrying from
the right bank and islands back to their homes, which
they had temporarily vacated for our convenience. It
seemed to me to be an excellent arrangement. It saved
trouble of speech, exerted possibly in useless efforts for
peace and tedious chaffer. They had only one night's
inconvenience, and were there many caravans advancing
as peaceably as we were, natural curiosity would in time
induce them to come forward to be acquainted with the
strangers.
Our people found abundant to eat in the fields, and
around the villages. The area devoted to cultivation
was extensive : plantains flourished around the stock-
ades ; herbs for potage were found in little plots close to
the villages ; also sufficient tobacco for smoking, and
pumpkins for dessert, and a little Indian corn ; but, alas,
we all suffered from want of meat.
There were few aquatic birds to be seen. There were
some few specimens of divers, fish eagles, and king-
fishers. Somewhere, at a distance, a pair of ibis screamed ;
flocks of parrots whistled and jabbered in vain struggles
to rob the solitude of the vast trackless forest of its
oppressive silence ; whip-poor-wills, and sunbirds, and
weavers aided them with their varied strains ; but insects,
and flies, and moths were innumerable.
On the 12th we moved up as usual, starting at 6.30 A.M.,
the caravan preceding the boat and its consorts. Though
proceeding only at the rate of a mile and a half per
hour, we soon overhauled the struggling caravan, and
passed the foremost of the pioneers. At 10 A.M. we met
a native boy, called Bakula, of about fifteen years, floating
down river on a piece of a canoe. He sprung aboard our
ANOTHER FURIOUS TEMPEST. 153
boat with alacrity, and used his paddle properly. An ISST.
hour later we rounded the lowest point of a lengthy July 12-
curve, bristling with numerous large villages. The boy Bandan s 1 -
volunteer who had dropped to our aid from the unknown,
called the lower village Bandangi, the next Ndumba, and
the long row of villages above, the houses of the Banalya
tribe. But all were deserted. We halted at Bandangi
for lunch, and at 2 P.M. resumed our journey.
An hour's pull brought us to the upper village, where
we camped. Our river party on this day numbered forty
men ; but, as we landed, we were lost in the large and
silent village. 1 had counted thirteen villages one of
these numbered 180 huts. Assuming that in this curve
there were 1300 huts, and allowing only four persons to
each hut, we have a population of 5200.
At 5.30 appeared the advance guard of the column,
and presently a furious tempest visited us, with such
violent accompaniments of thunder and lightning as
might have been expected to be necessary to clear the
atmosphere charged with the collected vapours of this
humid region through which the sun appeared daily as
through a thick veil. Therefore the explosive force of
the electric fluid was terrific. All about us, and at all
points, it lightened and shattered with deafening explo-
sions, and blinding forks of flame, the thick, sluggish,
vaporous clouds. Nothing less than excessive energy of
concentrated electricity could have cleared the heavy
atmosphere, and allowed the inhabitants of the land to
see the colour of the sky, and to feel the cheering in-
fluence of the sun. For four hours we had to enchire the
dreadful bursts ; while a steady stream of rain relieved
the surcharged masses that had hung incumbent above
us for days. While the river party and advance guard
were housed in the upper village, the rear guard and
No. 4 Company occupied Bandangi, at the town end of
the crescent, and we heard them shooting minute guns to
warn us of their presence ; while we vainly, for econo-
mical reasons, replied with the tooting of long ivory
horns.
Such a large population naturally owned exclusive
154 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. fields of manioc, plantations of bananas, and plantains,
July 12. g U g ar _ cane? gardens of herbs, and Indian corn, and as the
iang1 ' heavy rain had saturated the ground, a halt was ordered.
By nine o'clock the rear guard was known to have
arrived by Nelson's voice crying out for " chop and
coffee" our chop consisted of cassava cakes, a plantain
or so roasted, and a mess of garden greens, with tea or
coffee. Flesh of goat or fowl was simply unprocurable.
Neither bird nor beast of any kind was to be obtained.
Hitherto only two crocodiles and but one hippo had
been discovered, but no elephant, buffalo, or a'ntelope or
wild hog, though tracks were numerous. How could it
be otherwise with the pioneers' shouts, cries, noise of
cutting and crushing, and pounding of trees, the murmur
of a large caravan ? With the continuous gossip, story-
telling, wrangling, laughing or wailing that were main-
tained during the march, it was simply impossible. Pro-
gress through the undergrowth was denied without a
heavy knife, machette, or bill-hook to sever entangling
creepers, and while an animal may have been only a few
feet off on the other side of a bush, vain was the attempt
to obtain view of it through impervious masses of vege-
tation.
In our boat I employed the halt for examining the
islands near Bandangi. We discovered lengthy heaps of
oyster-shells on one island, one of which was sixty feet
long, ten feet wide, and four feet high ; we can imagine
the feasts of the bivalves that the aborigines enjoyed
during their picnics, and the length of time that had
elapsed since the first bivalve had been eaten. On my
return I noticed through a bank-slip in the centre of the
curve a stratum of oyster-shell buried three feet under
alluvium.
Our native boy Bakula, informed us that inland north
lived the Baburu, who were very different from the
river tribes, that up river, a month's journey, would be
found dwarfs about two feet high, with long beards ;
that he had once journeyed as far as Panga where the
river tumbled from a height as high as the tallest tree,
that the Aruwimi was now called Lui by the people of
OUR NATIVE BOY BAKULA. 155
the left bank, but that to the Baburu on the right bank i88?. k
it was known as the Luhali. Bakula was an exceptionally July 1 ^
crafty lad, a pure cannibal, to whom a mess of human Bandan 8 l
meat would have been delectable. He was a perfect
mimic, and had by native cunning protected himself by
conforming readily to what he divined would be pleasing
to the strangers by whom he was surrounded. Had all
the native tribes adopted this boy's policy our passage
through these novel lands would have been as pleasant
as could be desired. I have no doubt that they pos-
sessed all the arts of craft which we admired in Bakula,
they had simply not the courage to do what an accident
had enabled him to carry out.
From Chief Bambi's town of the Banalya we moved
to Bungangeta villages by river and land on the 1 5th. It
was a stern and sombre morning, gloomy with lowering
and heavy clouds. It struck me on this dull dreary
morning, while regarding the silent flowing waters of the
dark river and the long unbroken forest frontage, that
nature in this region seems to be waiting the long ex-
pected trumpet-call of civilization that appointed time
when she shall awake to her duties, as in other portions
of the earth. I compared this waiting attitude to the
stillness preceding the dawn, before the insect and animal
life is astir to fret the air with its murmur, before the
day has awakened the million minute passions of the
wilds ; at that hour when even Time seems to be drowsy
and nodding, our inmost thoughts appear to be loud,
and the heart throbs to be clamorous. But when the
young day peeps forth white and gray in the East the
eyelids of the world lift up. There is a movement and a
hum of invisible life, and all the earth seems wakened
from its brooding. But withal, the forest world remains
restful, and Nature bides her day, and the river shows no
life ; unlike Rip Van Winkle, Nature, despite her im-
measurably long ages of sleep, indicates no agedness, so
old, incredibly old, she is still a virgin locked in innocent
repose.
What expansive wastes of rich productive land lie in
this region unheeded by man ! Populous though the
156 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. river banks are, they are but slightly disturbed by
labour a trifling grubbing of parts of the foreshore, a
B gefa. n " limited acreage for manioc, within a crater-like area in
the bosom of the dark woods, and a narrow line of small
cotes, wherein the savages huddle within their narrow
circumference.
One of my amusements in the boat was to sketch the
unknown course of the river for as the aborigines
disappeared like rats into their holes on one's approach
I could gain no information respecting it. How far was
it permissible for me to deviate from my course? By
the river I could assist the ailing and relieve the strong.
The goods could be transported and the feeble conveyed.
Reserves of manioc and plantain could also be carried.
But would a somewhat long curve, winding as high as
some forty or fifty geographical miles north of our
course, be compensated by these advantages of relief 01
the porters, and the abundance of provisions that are
assuredly found on the banks ? When I noted the
number of the sick, and saw the jaded condition of the
people, I felt that if the river ascended as far as 2 N.,
it was infinitely preferable to plunging into the centre
of the forest.
The temperature of the air during the clouded morn-
ing was 75, surface of the river 77. What a relief it
was to breathe the air of the river after a night spent in
inhaling the close impure air in the forest by night !
On the 16th we possessed one boat and five canoes,
carrying seventy-four men and 120 loads, so that with
the weight of the boat sections, half of our men were
relieved of loads, and carried nothing every alternative
day. We passed by the mouth of a considerable affluent
from the south-east, and camped a mile above it. The
temperature rose to 94 in the afternoon, and as a
consequence rain fell in torrents, preceded by the usual
thunder roars and lightning flashes. Until 1 P.M. of
the 17th the rain fell unceasingly. It would have been
interesting to have ascertained the number of inches
that fell during these nineteen hours' rain-pour. Few
of the people enjoyed any rest ; there was a general
THE SOMALIS. 157
wringing of blankets and clothes after it ceased, but it 1887.
was some hours before they recovered their usual ani- Jul r 17 -
mation. The aborigines must have been also depressed,
owing to our vicinity, though if they had known what
wealth we possessed, they might have freely parted with
their goats and fowls for our wares.
The column camped at 3 P.M. opposite the settlement
of Lower Mariri. Besides their immense wooden drums,
which sounded the alarm to a ten-mile distance, the
natives vociferated with unusual powers of lung, so
that their cries could be heard a mile off. The absence
of all other noises lends peculiar power to their voices.
The Somalis, who are such excellent and efficient
servants in lands like the Masai, or dry regions like
the Soudan, are perfectly useless in humid regions.
Five of them declined to stay at Yambuya, and insisted
on accompanying me. Since we had taken to the river
I had employed them as boatmen, or rather did employ
them when they were able to handle a paddle or a pole,
but their physical powers soon collapsed, and they
became mere passengers. On shore, without having
undergone any exertion, they were so prostrated after a
two hours' river voyage, that they were unable to rig
shelter against rain and damp, and as they were thievish
the Zanzibaris refused to permit them to approach their
huts. The result was that we had the trouble each day
to see that a share of food even was doled out to them,
as they would have voluntarily starved rather than cut
down the plantains above their heads.
From opposite Lower Mariri we journeyed to a spot
ten miles below the Upper Mariri on the 18th. The
canoes had only occupied 4 h. 15 m., but the land
column did not appear at all.
On the 19th I employed the boat and canoe crews to
cut a road to above a section of the rapids of Upper
Mariri. This was accomplished in 2^ hours. We
returned to camp in 45 minutes. Our pace going up
was similar to that of the caravan, consequently an
ordinary day's travel through the forest would be six
miles. On returning to camp formed the column, and
158 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. marched it to the end of our paths ; the boat and
July 20. canoes W ere punted up the rapids without accident, and
Hariri' in the afternoon the people foraged for food at a village
a mile and a half above camp with happy results. On
the 20th the advance column marched up and occupied
the village.
About two hours after arrival some of the natives of
Mariri came in a canoe and hailed us. We replied
through Bakula, the native boy, and in a short time
were able to purchase a couple of fowls, and during the
afternoon were able to purchase three more. This was
the first barter we had been able to effect on the Aru-
wimi. Mariri is a large settlement abounding in plan-
tains, while at our village there were none. Two men,
Charlie No. 1 and Musa bin Juma disappeared on this
day. Within twenty-three days we had not lost a man.
No casualty had as yet happened, and good fortune,
which had hitherto clung to us, from this date began to
desert us. We were under the impression that those
men had been captured by natives, and their heedless
conduct wa's the text of a sermon preached to the men
next morning when they were mustered for the march.
It was not until thirteen months later that we knew
that they had deserted, that they had succeeded in
reaching Yambuya, and had invented the most mar-
vellous tales of wars and disasters, which, when repeated
by the officers at Yambuya in their letter to the Com-
mittee, created so much anxiety. Had I believed it
had been possible that two messengers could have
performed that march, we certainly had availed our-
selves of the fact to have communicated authentic news
and chart of the route to Major Barttelot, who in
another month would be leaving his camp as we be-
lieved. From the village opposite Upper Mariri we
proceeded to S. Mupe', a large settlement consisting of
several villages, embowered in plantations. The chiefs
of Mupe are Mbadu, Alimba, and Mangrudi.
On the 22nd Surgeon Parke was the officer of the
day, and was unfortunate enough to miss the river, and
strike through the forest in a wrong direction. He
THE BABE MANNERS, CUSTOMS, AND DRESS. 159
finally struck a track on which the scouts found a
woman and a large-eyed, brown-coloured child. The Jul y 22 -
woman showed the route to the river, and was after-
wards released. Through her influence the natives of
N. Mupe on the right bank were induced to trade with
us, by which we were enabled to procure a dozen fowls
and two eggs.
The bed of the river in this locality is an undisturbed
rock of fine-grained and hard, brick-coloured sandstone.
This is the reason that the little rapids, though frequent
enough, present but little obstacles to navigation. The
banks at several places rose to about forty feet above
the river, and the rock is seen in horizontal strata in
bluffy form, in many instances like crumbling ruins of
cut stone.
The sign of peace with these riverine natives appears
to be the pouring of water on their heads with their
hands. As new-comers approached our camp they cried
out, " We suffer from famine, we have no food, but up
river you will find plenty, Oh, ' monomopote ' ! (son of
the sea)." " But we suffer from want of food, and have
not the strength to proceed unless you give us some,"
we replied. Whereupon they threw us fat ears of
Indian corn, plantains, and sugar-cane. This was
preliminary to a trade, in doing which these apparently
unsophisticated natives were as sharp and as exorbitant
as any of the Wyyanzi on the Congo. The natives of
Mupe are called Babe.
Trifles, such as empty sardine boxes, jam and milk
cans, and cartridge cases, were easily barterable for
sugar-cane, Indian corn, and tobacco. A cotton hand-
kerchief would buy a fowl, goats were brought to our
view, but not parted with. They are said to be the
monopoly of chiefs. The natives showed no fixed,
desire for any speciality but cloth gaudy red handker-
chiefs. We saw some cowries among them, and in the
bottom of a canoe we found a piece of an infantry
officer's sword nine inches long. We should have been
delighted to have heard the history of that sword, and
the list of its owners since it left Birmingham. But we
160
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. could not maintain any lengthy conversation with them,
July 22. Qur jg norance O f the language, and their excitability
prevented us from doing more than observing and
interchanging words relating to peace and food with
them. We can accept the bit
of sword blade as evidence that
their neighbours in the interior
have had some contact with the
Soudanese.
Neither in manners, customs
or dress was there any very
great difference between these
natives and those belonging to
the upper parts of the Upper
Congo. Their head-dresses were
of basket work decorated with
red parrot feathers, monkey
skin caps of grey or dark fur,
with the tails drooping behind.
The neck, arm and ankle orna-
ments were of polished iron,
rarely of copper, never of brass.
They make beautiful paddles,
finely carved like a long pointed
leaf. " Senneneh " was the
peaceful hail as in Manyuema, Uregga and Usongora,
above Stanley Falls. The complexion of these natives
is more ochreous than black. When a body of them is
seen on the opposite bank, there is little difference ot
HEAD-DRESSCROWN OF
BRISTLES.
PADDLE OF THE UPPER ARUWIMI OR 1TURI.
colour between their bodies and the reddish clayey soil
of the landing-place. Much of this is due to the
Camwood powder, and with this mixed with oil they
perform their toilet. But protection from sunshine
QUALITIES OF MY FOUR OFFICERS. 161
considerably contributes to this light colour. The
native boy, Bakula, for instance, was deprived of this Jul 3 r24 -
universal cosmetic made of Camwood, and he was much
lighter than the average of our Zanzibaris.
On the 24th, Mr. Jephson led the van of the column,
and under his guidance we made the astonishing inarch of
seven and a half geographical miles the column having
been compelled to wade through seventeen streams and
creeks. During these days Jephson exhibited a marvellous
vigour. He was in many things an exact duplicate of
myself in my younger days, before years and hundreds
of fevers had cooled my burning blood. He is exactly
of my own height, build and weight and temperament.
He is sanguine, confident, and loves hard work. He is
simply indefatigable, and whether it is slushy mire or
a muddy creek, in he enters, without hesitation, up to
his knees, waist, neck or overhead it is all the same.
A sybarite, dainty and fastidious in civilization, a traveller
and labourer in Africa, he requires to be restrained and
counselled for his own sake. Now these young men,
Stairs, Nelson and Parke, are very much in the same
way. Stairs is the military officer, alert, intelligent,
who understands a hint, a curt intimation, grasps an
idea firmly and realises it to perfection. Nelson is a
centurion as of old Eoman times, he can execute because
it is the will of his chief ; he does not x stay to ask the
' reason why ; he only understands it to be a necessity,
and his great vigour, strength, resolution, plain, good
sense is at my disposal, to act, suffer or die ; and Parke,
noble, gentle soul, so tender and devoted, so patient, so
sweet in mood and brave in temper, always enduring
and effusing comfort as he moves through our atmos-
phere of suffering and pain. No four men ever entered
Africa with such qualities as these. No leader ever had
cause to bless his stars as I.
On this day Jephson had two adventures. In his
usual. free, impulsive manner, and with swinging gait
he was directing the pioneers crushing through the
jungle, indifferent to his costume, when he suddenly
sank out of sight into an elephant pit ! We might
VOL. i. L
162 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. have imagined a playful and sportive young elephant
July 24. cras } im g through the bushes, rending and tearing young
^ Iupe< saplings, and suddenly disappearing from the view of
his more staid mamma. Jephson had intelligence, how-
ever, and aid was at hand, and he was pulled out none
the worse. It was a mere amusing incident to be
detailed in camp and to provoke a laugh.
He rushed ahead of the pioneers to trace the course
to be followed, and presently encountered a tall native,
with a spear in his hand, face to face. Both were so
astonished as to be paralysed, but Jephson's impulse
was that of a Berseker. He flung himself, unarmed,,
upon the native, who, eluding his grasp, ran from him,
as he would from a lion, headlong down a steep bank
into a creek, Jephson following. But the clayey soil
was damp and slippery, his foot slipped, and the gallant
Captain of the Advance measured his length face
downwards with his feet up the slope, and such was.
his impetus that he slid down to the edge of the creek.
When he recovered himself it was to behold the denizen
of the woods, hurrying up the opposite bank and casting
wild eyes at this sudden pale-faced apparition who had
so disturbed him as he brooded over the prospect of
finding game in his traps that day.
Our camp on this day was a favourite haunt of
elephants from time immemorial. It was near a point
round which the river raced with strong swirling
currents. A long view of a broad silent river is seen
upward, and one of a river disparted by a series of
islands below.
On the 25th Captain Nelson led the column, Jephson
was requested to assist me with the long narrow canoes
laden with valuable goods, and to direct some of the
unskilful " lubbers ' who formed our crews. The boat
led the way anchored above the dangerous and swirly
point, and cast the manilla rope to the canoe crew, who,,
hauling by this cord drew the canoes to quiet water.
Then rowing hard against the strong currents, at 1 1 A.M.
we caught the head of the caravan gathered on the bank
of a wide and dark sluggish creek, the Rendi, which lazily
WASP fiAPIDS. 163
flowed out of dark depths of woods. By one o'clock the iss?.
ferriage was completed, and the column resumed its Jul y 25 -
march, while we, on the river, betook ourselves to j^g
further struggles with the dangerous waves and reefs of
what is now called Wasp Eapids, from the following
incident.
These rapids extended for a stretch of two miles.
Above them were the villages which became the scene
of a tragic strife, as will be learned later in a subsequent
chapter, and these settlements were the dear objects of
our aims in order to obtain shelter and food.
Our first efforts against the rapids were successful.
The current was swift and dangerous, breaking out into
great waves now and then. For the first half-hour we
were successful. Then began a struggle, rowing on one
side hard and the starboard side crew grasping at over-
hanging bushes, two men poling, two men on the decked
bow, with boat-hooks outstretched with their fangs ready
to snatch at saplings for firm hold. I steered. We
advanced slowly but steadily, a narrow rushing branch
between rocky islets, and the bank was before us which
raced over a reef, showing itself in yard square dots of
rock above the waves. We elected to ascend this as in
view of a capsize there was less fear of drowning.
With noble spirits braced for an exciting encounter, we
entered it. Eager hands were held out to catch at the
branches, but at the first clutch there issued at this
critical moment an army of fierce spiteful wasps and
settled on our faces, hands, and bodies, every vulnerable
spot, and stung us with the venom of fiends. Maddened
and infuriated by the burning stings, battling with this
vicious enemy, beset by reefs, and rocks, and dangerous
waves, and whirling vortexes, we tore on with tooth and
nail, and in a few minutes were a hundred yards above the
awful spot. Then, clinging to the trees, we halted to
breathe and sympathise with each other, and exchange
views and opinions on the various stings of insects, bees,
hornets, and wasps.
One asked my servant with a grim smile, "Did you
say the other day that you believed there was much
164 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. honey in these brown paper nests of the wasps ?
July 25. Wellj wnat do y OU t | link of tne h^^ now ? ]) on t
RapkTs you think it is rather a bitter sort ? " This raised
a general laugh. We recovered our good temper,
and resumed our work, and in an hour reached the
village which the land party had occupied. The canoes
crews, who followed us, seeing the battle with the
wasps, fled across river, and ascended by the right
bank. But the Somalis and Soudanese, more trustful
WASPS NESTS, ETC.
in Allah, bravely followed our track, and were dread-
fully stung ; still, they were consoled by being able to
exult over the Zanzibaris, the leader of which was
Uledi, of the "Dark Continent."
" Oh," I remarked to Uledi, " it is not a brave thing
you have done this day to fly away from wasps."
" Oh, sir," he replied, " naked manhood is nowhere
in such a scrape as that. Wasps are more dangerous
than the most savage men."
VISIT FEOM THE CHIEF OF BWAMBURI. 165
The native settlement on the left bank is called 1887.
Bandeya ; the one facing opposite consists of the villages July 25 '
of the Bwamburi. North of the Bwamburi, a day's R Y p 7d P 8 .
march, begins the tribes of the Ababua and the Mabode,
who have a different kind of architecture from the
steeply conical huts prevailing among the riverine
tribes. The Mabode' are said to possess square houses
with gable roofs, the walls are neatly plastered, and
along the fronts are clay verandahs.
On the 26th we halted to rest and recuperate. Those
of us who were attacked by the wasps suffered from a
fever ; the coxswain of the boat was in great distress.
The following day the chief of the Bwamburi came over
to pay us a visit, and brought us as a gift a month old
chick, w r hich was declined on the ground that we should
feel we were robbing him were we to accept such a gift
from a professedly poor man. His ornaments consisted
of two small ivory tusks planed flat and polished, which
hung suspended from a string made of grass encircling
his neck. His head-dress was a long-haired monkey
skin. We exchanged professions of amity and brother-
hood, and commenced the march, and camped opposite
Mukupi, a settlement possessing eight villages, on the
28th.
Two sturdy prisoners imparted to us strange informa-
tion of a large lake called " No-uma," as being situate
somewhere in the neighbourhood of a place called
Panga. It was said to be many days' journey in
extent. In the centre was a large island, so infested
with serpents that natives dreaded to go near it ; that
from it flowed the Nepoko into the Nowelle, the name
now given to the Aruwimi. After several days' march
we discovered that the lake story was a myth, and that
the Nepoko did not flow from the left bank of the
Aruwimi.
Our camp on the 29th was opposite My-yui, a series
of villages embowered amongst banana groves on the
right bank. It was not long before we struck an
acquaintance with this tribe. We quickly recognized
a disposition on the part of the aborigines to be
166 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. sociable. A good report of our doings had preceded
July 21 ug Trade commenced very pleasantly. Our people
had cowries, beads, and brass rods, besides strange
trifles to exchange for food. When the land column
arrived, prices advanced somewhat, owing to the greater
demand. It was reported that there were no settle-
ments between our camp opposite My-yui and Panga ;
that we should be nine days performing the journey
through the forest.
The next morning the bartering was resumed, because
we wished to prepare provisions for several days ; new
ration currency had already been distributed to each
man. But we were astonished to find that only three
ears of Indian corn were given on this day for a brass
rod twenty-eight inches in length, of the thickness of
telegraph wire. At Bangala such a brass rod' would
have purchased five days' provisions per man in my
days, and here was a settlement in the wilds where we
could only obtain three ears of corn ! For one fowl four
brass rods were demanded. Cowries were not accepted ;
beads they declined. The men were ravenously hungry ;
there were nine days' wilderness ahead. Wasp rapids
was the nearest place below. We expostulated, but
they were firm. The men then began to sell their
cartridge-pouches for two plantains each. They were
detected selling their ammunition at the rate of one
cartridge for an ear of corn ; a tin canteen purchased
two. Bill-hooks and axes went next, and ruin stared us
in the face. The natives were driven away ; one of
Mugwye's (the chiefs) principal slaves was lifted out
of his canoe by a gigantic Zanzibari, and word was sent
to the natives that if there were no fair sales of food
made as on the first day, that the prisoner would be
taken away, and that we should cross over and help
ourselves.
Having waited all the afternoon for the reappearance
of food, we embarked at dawn on the 31st with two full
companies, entered My-yui, and despatched the foragers.
By 3 P.M. there was food enough in the camp for ten
days
CANOE ACCIDENT OPPOSITE MAMBANGA. 167
In the afternoon of the 1st of August, the advance iss
column was encamped opposite Mambanga. The river Aug *
party met with an accident. Careless Soudanese were *
capsized, and one of the Zanzibari steersmen disobeying
orders shoved his canoe under the branchy trees which
spread out from the bank to the distance of fifty feet ;
and by the swift current was driven against a submerged
branch, and capsized, causing a loss of valuable property
some of them being fine beads, worth four shillings a
necklace. Six rifles were also lost.
The first death in the advance column occurred on the
2nd August, the 36th day of departure from Yambuya,
which was a most extraordinary immunity considering
the hardship and privations to which we were all
subjected. Could we have discovered a settlement
of bananas on the other bank, we should certainly have
halted to recuperate for many days. A halt at this
period of four or five days at a thriving settlement,
would have been of vast benefit to all of us, but such a
settlement had not been found, and it was necessary for
us to march and press on until we could discover one.
We traversed a large village that had been abandoned
for probably six months before we reached, and as it
was the hour of camping, we prepared to make ourselves
comfortable for the evening. But as the tents were
being pitched, my attention was called to the cries
made by excited groups, and hastening to the scene,
heard that there was a dead body almost covered with
mildew in a hut. Presently the discovery of another
was announced and then another. This sufficed to
cause us to hastily pack up again and depart from the
dead men's village, lest we might contract the strange
disease that had caused the abandonment of the village.
One of our poor donkeys, unable to find fitting
sustenance in the region of trees and jungle, lay down
and died. Another appeared weak and pining for grass,
which the endless forest did not produce.
Opposite our camp on this day was the mouth of the
Ngula River, an affluent on the north side. Within the
river it appeared to be of a width of fifty yards.
1887.
168
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
On the 3rd two hills became visible, one bearing
E.S.E., the other S.E. by E. K, as we moved up the
river. We camped at the point of a curve in the centre
of which were two islands. Paying a visit to one of
them we found two goats, at which we were so rejoiced,
that long before evening one was slaughtered for the
officers, and another to make broth for the sick. A
flock of a hundred would have saved many a life that
was rapidly fading away.
FORT ISLAND, NEAR PANGA FALLS.
The next day we arrived at Panga or the Nepanga
Falls, about which we had heard so much from Bakula,
the native boy.
The falls are fully thirty feet high, though at first
view they appear to be double that height, by the great
slope visible above the actual fall. They extend over a
mile in length from the foot of the falls, to above the
ARRIVAL AT PANG A FALLS. 169
portage. They are the first serious obstacles to navi- iss?.
gation we had encountered. They descend by four Augt 4>
separate branches, the largest of which is 200 yards p^is*
wide. They run by islets of gneissic rock, and afford
cover to the natives of Panga, who when undisturbed,
live upon a large island called Nepanga, one mile long
and 300 yards wide, situated 600 yards below the Falls.
This island contains three villages, numbering some
250 huts of the conical type. There are several
settlements inland on both banks. The staple food
consists of plantains, though there are also fields of
manioc.
PANGA FALLS.
An unfortunate Zanzibari, as though he had vowed
to himself to contribute largely to our ruin, capsized his
canoe as he approached Nepanga, by which we lost two
boxes of Maxim ammunition, five boxes of cowries, three
of white beads, one of fancy beads, one box fine copper
wire, cartridge pouches and seven rifles.
All things are savage in this region. No sooner had
a solitary hippo sighted us than he gave chase, and
nearly caught us. He was punished severely, and
probably received his death wound. The fowls of
Nepanga declined to be caught on the island of
Nepanga, but evaded the foragers by flight into the
170 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. jungle ; the goats were restless, and combative, and very
Aug. 4. w [\^ Altogether we captured twelve, which gave us
Fall? 1 some hopes of being able to save some of our sick
people. A few fish were obtained in the weirs and
basket-nets.
The results of 3 days' foraging on islands, right and
left banks were 250 Ibs. of Indian corn, 18 goats, and
as many fowls, besides a few branches of plantains,
among 383 people. A number of villages and settle-
ments were searched, but the natives do not appear to
possess a sufficiency of food. They were said to be at
war with a tribe called the Engwedde, and instead of
cultivating live on banana stalks, mushrooms, roots,
herbs, fish, and snails and caterpillars, varying this
extraordinary diet by feeding on slain humanity. In
such a region there were no inducements to stay, and
we accordingly commenced the business of portage.
Stairs' Company was detailed for clearing the canoe
track, and to strew it with branches placed athwart the
road. No. 3 and 4 Companies hauled the canoes, and
No. 1 Company carried the whale-boat bodily overland
to the sound of wild music and song, and by the end of
the 6th, after a busy day, we were encamped above the
great Falls of Panga.
CHAPTER VIII.
FROM PANGA FALLS TO UGARROWWA's.
Another accident at the Rapids The village of Utiri Avisibba setMe-
ment Inquiry into a murder case at Avisibba Surprised by the
natives Lieutenant Stairs wounded We hunt up the enemy
The poisoned arrows Indifference of the Zanzibaris Jephson's
caravan missing Our wounded Perpetual rain Deaths of Khalfan,
Saadi, and others Arrival of caravan The Mabengu Rapids
Mustering the people The Nepoko river Remarks by Binza Our
food supply Reckless use of ammunition Halfway to the Albert *
Lake We fall in with some of Ugarrowwa's men Absconders We
camp at Hippo Broads and Avakubi Rapids The destroyed settle-
ment of Navabi Elephants at Memberri More desertions The
Arab leader, Ugarrowwa He gives us information Visit to the Arab
settlement First specimen of the tribe of dwarfs Arrangements
with Ugarrowwa.
IN full view of this last camp there was an island iss?.
in mid-river distant about two miles, that resembled Aug> 7 *
a water battery, and a village lying low, apparently Paul*
level with the face of the river. On exploring it on
the 7th by no means an easy task, so strong was
the current sweeping down the smooth dangerous
slope of river towards Panga it appeared to have
been originally a flat rocky mass of rock a few inches
above high river, with inequalities on its surface which
had been filled in with earth carried from the left bank.
It measured 200 feet in length by about ninety feet in
width, to which a piscatorial section of a tribe had
retreated and built 60 cone huts, and boarded it round
about with planks cut out of a light wood out of the
forest and wrecked canoes. At this period the river
was but six inches below the lowest surface of the island.
Another serious accident occurred on this day during
the journey from above Panga Falls to Nejambi Rapids.
172
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887.
Aug. 7.
Panga
Falls.
A witless, unthinking canoe coxswain took his canoe
among the branches in broken water, got entangled, and
capsized. Nine out of eleven rifles were recovered ;
two cases of gunpowder were lost. The Zanzibaris
were so heedless and lubberly among rapids that I felt
myself growing rapidly aged with intense anxiety while
observing them. How headstrong human nature is
prone to be, I had ample proofs daily. My losses,
troubles, and anxieties rose solely from the reckless
VIEW OF UTIRI VILLAGE.
indifference to instructions manifested by my followers.
On land they wandered into the forest, and simply dis-
appeared, or were stabbed or pierced with arrows. So
far we had lost eight men and seventeen rifles.
On the 8th the caravan had hauled the canoes past
Nejambi Kapids, and was camped a few miles below
Utiri. The next day we reached the villages, where
we found the architecture had changed. The houses
were now all gable-roofed and low, and each one
surrounded by strong, tall, split log palisades, six feet
long, nine inches by four inches wide and thick, of the
MARCH TO AVISIBBA SETTLEMENT. 173
rubiacae wood. Constructed in two lines, a street iss?.
about twenty feet ran between them. As I observed
them I was impressed with the fact that they were
extremely defensible even against rifles. A dozen
resolute men in each court of one of these villages
armed with poisoned arrows might have caused con-
siderable loss and annoyance to an enemy.
On the 10th we halted, and foragers were despatched
in three different directions with poor results, only two
days' rations being procurable. One man, named Khalfan,
had been wounded in the wind-pipe by a wooden arrow.
The manner he received the wound indicates the perfect
indifference with which they receive instructions. While
Khalfan examined the plantains above, a native stood
not twenty feet away and shot him in the throat with a
poisoned arrow. The arrow wound was a mere needle-
point puncture, and Dr. Parke attended to him with
care, but it had a fatal consequence a few days later.
The llth was consumed by the river party in
struggling against a wild stretch, five miles long, of
rapids, caused by numerous reefs and rocky islets, while
the land column wound along the river bank on a
passable track which led them to Engwedde, where we
rejoined them on the 12th. Our day's rate having
been broken by the rapids, foragers were again despatched
to collect food, and succeeded in procuring three days'
rations of plantains. On the 13th we marched to
Avisibba, or Aveysheba, a settlement of five large
villages, two of which were situate on the upper side of
Euku Creek.
The river column was the first to occupy the villages
above the Ruku. A fine open street ran between two
rows of low huts, each hut surrounded by its tall
palisades. There .was a promising abundance in the
plantain groves about. The untouched forest beyond
looked tall, thick, and old. From the mouth of
the 'creek to the extremity of the villages there was a
hundred yards' thickness of primeval forest, through
which a native path ran. Between the village and the
Aruwimi was a belt of timber fifty yards wide. While
174
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887.
Aug. 13.
Avisibba.
the ferriage was progressing across the creek, the boat-
crew was searching eagerly and carefully among the
scores of courts for hidden savages, and with rifles pro-
jecting before them were burrowing into the plantain
groves, and outside the villages.
When the column was across I had a murder case to
inquire into. For on the 12th, at Engwedde, one of our
Zanzibaris had been killed with a rifle bullet outside of
camp, and it was supposed that some vengeful ruffian
in the column had shot him. Meantime, I had
suggested to two head men to take forty scouts
and re-cross the creek, to explore if there were any
LEAF-BLADED PADDLE OF AVISIBBA.
opportunities for foraging on the next day to the south-
west of the creek. My little court had just sat down
for the inquiry, and a witness was relating his evidence,
when the rifles were heard firing with unusual energy.
Lieutenant Stairs mustered some fifty men, and pro-
ceeded on the double-quick to the river. Under the
impression that ninety breech-loaders were quite sufficient
we resumed the investigation, but as volley after volley
rang out, with continued cracking of scouts' rifles, the
Doctor, Nelson, and myself hastened to the scene
with a few more men. The first person I saw was
LIEUT. STAIRS WOUNDED BY A POISONED ARROW. 177
Lieutenant Stairs, with his shirt torn open, and blood
streaming from an arrow-wound in the left breast, Aug - 13-
about the region of the heart, and I heard a patter- Avi8ibbn -
ing on the leaves around me, and caught a glimpse
of arrows flying past. After consigning our poor friend
to Parke's care I sought for information. There were
numbers of men crouching about, and firing in the
most senseless fashion at some suspicious bushes across
the creek. There were certainly obstinate savages
hidden behind them, but I failed to get a glimpse of one.
The creek I soon found lay between us. I was told that
as the boat was crossing the creek a body of natives had
suddenly issued on the other side and shot their arrows
into them ; that surprised by the discharge they had
crouched in the bottom of the boat to escape the arrows,
and had paddled the boat back to the landing-place
with their hands. They had then picked up their rifles
and blazed away at them. Simultaneously Lieutenant
Stairs had rushed in among them and fired at the
enemy, who were of a bolder kind than any they had
yet met. In a short time he had received an arrow in
the breast, which he had torn off while retreating, and
five other men had been punctured. Almost as soon as
I had finished receiving these particulars, I saw for the
first time a dark shadow creep along the ground between
two bushes, and fired into the centre of it, and a
curiously weird wail responded to it. Two minutes
later the arrows had ceased their patter among the
leaves. Having posted a strong guard of the best shots
along the bank to observe any movement on the opposite
bank of the creek, the rest of the people were withdrawn.
In the evening some scouts that had searched in the
woods inland returned with a flock of seven goats. They
had discovered the crossing-place, and had suddenly
opened fire on a small column going either to the assist-
ance of the enemy or coming from their direction.
On. the 14th, at dawn, pushed over the creek two
companies to hunt up the enemy that had done us such
damage ; a company was also sent, under Captain Nelson,
to the forest inland. In a few minutes we heard a volley,
VOL. i. M
178
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887
Aug. 14.
and a second, and then incessant rifle fire, showing
t .] la ^ ^ e enenl y W ere of a resolute character. There were
some crac k shots in No. 1 Company, but it was scarcely
possible to do much damage in a thick bush against a crafty
enemy, who knew that they possessed most dangerous
weapons, and who were ignorant of the deadly force of
the pellets that searched the bushes. About 300 rounds
had been fired, and silence followed. Four only of these
had been fatal, and our party received four wounds from
arrows smeared over freshly with a copal-coloured sub-
stance. One dead body was brought to me for examin-
ation. The head had a crop
of long hair banded by a
kind of coronet of iron ; the
neck had a string of iron
drops, with a few monkey
teeth among them. The
teeth were filed into points.
The distinguishing mark of
the body appears to form
double rows of tiny cicatrices
across the chest and abdomen.
The body was uncircumcised.
Another dead body brought
to the landing-place had a
necklace of human teeth, and
a coronet of shining plated
iron, and the forehead and
several wristlets of the same
metal, polished ; on the left arm was the thick pad of
silk cotton covered with goat skin, to protect the arm
from the bow string.
After the natives had been chased away on all sides
from the vicinity, the people commenced to forage, and
succeeded in bringing to Avisibba during the day
sufficent plantains to give eighty per man four days'
rations.
Lieutenant Stairs' wound was one-fifth of an inch in
diameter, an inch and a quarter below the heart, and
the pointed head of the arrow had penetrated an inch
A HEAD-DRESS OF AVISIBBA
WARRIORS.
THE POISONED ARROWS. 179
and a half deep. The other men were wounded in the i87.
wrists, arms, and one in the fleshy part of the back. At Allg> 14>
this period we did not know what this strange copal-
coloured substance was with which the points had been
smeared, nor did we know what were its peculiar effects
when dry or wet ; all that the Doctor could do at this
time was to inject water in the wounds and cleanse them.
The " old hands " of the Zanzibaris affirmed it was poison
extracted from the India rubber (Landolphia) by boiling ;
that the scum after sufficient boiling formed the poison.
COEONETED AVISIBBA WARKIOU HEAD-DRESS.
A native declared that it was made of a species of arum,
which, after being bruised, was boiled ; that the water
was then poured out into another pot, and boiled again
until it had left a strong solution, which was mixed with
fat, and this was the substance on the arrows. The
odour was acrid, with a suspicion of asafoetida. The men
proved its deadly properties by remarking that elephants
and all big game were killed by it. All these stories
caused us to be very anxious, but our ignorance was
excessive, I admit. We could only look on with wonder
at the small punctures on the arms, and express our
180 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. opinion that such small wounds could not be deadly, and
Aag. 14. h () p e> f or the sake of our friend Stairs and our nine
)ba ' wounded men, that all this was mere exaggeration.
The arrows were very slender, made of a dark wood,
twenty-four inches long, points hardened by slow baking
in the warm atmosphere above the hut fires ; at the butt
end was a slit, in which a leaf was introduced to guide
the flight ; the sharp points were as sharp as needles,
and half an inch from the point began a curving line of
notches for about two inches. The arrow heads were
then placed in the prepared and viscid substance, with
which they were smeared ; large leaves were then rolled
round a sheaf before they were placed in the quiver.
Another substance w^as pitch black in colour, and appeared
more like Stockholm tar when fresh, but had a very
disagreeable smell. In a quiver there would be nearly
a hundred arrows. When we observed the care taken
of these arrows, rolled up in green leaves as they were,
our anxiety for our people was not lessened.
The bow is of stubborn hard brown wood, about three
feet long ; the string is a broad strip of rattan carefully
polished. To experiment with their power I drove one
of the wooden arrows, at six feet distance, through two
sides of an empty biscuit tin. At 200 yards' distance
was a tall tree. I drove an arrow, with full force, over
the top of the highest branch and beyond the tree. It
dawned on us all then that these wooden arrows were
not the contemptible things we had imagined. At a
short distance we judged, from what we saw, that the
stiff spring of this little bow was sufficient to drive one
of these slender arrows clean through a human body. At
120 paces I have been able to miss a bird within an inch
with one of them.
At noon on the 15th of August the land column filed
out of the palisaded villages of Avisibba led by Mr.
Jephson, the officer of the day. As a captive had
informed us that there were three cataracts ahead not
far off, I instructed Mr. Jephson that he must follow
the river and halt at the first convenient spot about
2.30 P.M. ; that I would halt the river column, now
WOODEN ARROWS OF THE AVJS1BBA.
(From a photoyrapJi )
182 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1837. consisting of the boat and fourteen canoes, until the
rear guard under Captain Nelson had quite left the
settlement ; but as the canoes would proceed faster
than the land caravan, I would probably overtake him,
and camp at the first fit place I could find after an
hour's row, in which event he would proceed until he
found us. The instructions were also repeated to the
leading men of the pioneers.
I ought to have stated that our start at noon was
occasioned by the delay caused by the discovery at the
morning muster that five men were absent. They ulti-
mately turned up at 10 o'clock ; but this perpetual
straying away without leave was most exasperating,
and had drawn a lecture from me, though this was not
uncommon in those stupid early days of training.
The Zanzibaris persisted in exhibiting an indifference
to danger absolutely startling, not from bravery, or
from ignorance of fear, but from an utter incapacity to
remember that danger existed, and from a stupid un-
consciousness as to how it affected them. Animals are
indebted to instinct as a constant monitor against
danger, but these men appeared to possess neither
instinct nor reason, neither perception nor memory.
Their heads were uncommonly empty. The most urgent
entreaties to beware of hidden foes, and the most dread-
ful threats of punishment, failed to impress on their
minds the necessity they were under of being prudent,
wary, and alert to avoid the skewers in the path, the
lurking cannibal behind the plantain stalk, the cunning
foe lying under a log, or behind a buttress, and the
sunken pit, with its pointed pales at the bottom. When
the danger fronted them it found them all unprepared.
A sudden shower of arrows sent them howling abjectly
out of reach or under shelter ; and if the arrows were
only followed by a resolute advance, resistance, by reason
of excess of terror, would be impossible. An unexpected
show of dauntlessness in a native compelled from them
a ready recognition of his courage. On the road they
sneaked into the woods to avoid the rear guard, but flew
screaming with terror if a prowling savage suddenly
THE FORAGING OF THE ZANZIBARIS. 183
rose before them with uplifted spear. They roved far
singly or by twos amongst the villages, as looting was dear Aug ; 15 '
to their hearts ; but should they meet the wild owners of '
them they were more apt to throw the deadly rifle down
on the ground than to use it. They strayed through the
plantain grove with magnificent unconcern, but if they
heard the whiz of an arrow they collapsed nervelessly
and submitted to their fate. With an astounding con-
fidence they scattered along the road, and stretched the
line of the column to 3 miles in length, but at sight of
natives all sense was lost save that of cowardly fear.
Out of 370 men at this time in the camp there were
clearly 250 of this description, to whom rifles were of
no use save as a clumsy, weighty club, which they
would part with for a few ears of corn, or would willingly
exchange for a light walking staff if they dared.
The day previous the Zanzibari head men, urged by
their friends, had appeared before me in a body, and
demanded to be despatched to forage without any
officers, as the officers, they said, bored them with their
perpetual orders of " Fall in, fall in." " Why," said they,
" who can gather bananas if they are continually watched
and told to ' Fall in, fall in ? ' :
" Very true," said I, " the thing is impossible. Let
me see what you caji do by yourselves. The banana plan-
tations are but a quarter of an hour's distance. I shall
expect you all back within an hour."
After such an exposition of character as the above it
will not be wondered, that, each man having cleared
from my presence, forgot all his promises, and wandered
according to his wont. A flock of sheep or a herd of
swine could not have gone further astray. After fourteen
hours' absence the 200 foragers had returned save five.
These five had departed no one knew where until 10 A.M.
of this day.
Ah, those early days ! Worse were to come, and
then; having become purified by suffering, and taught
by awful experience, they became Romans !
But to return to Jephson. We pulled up stream after
seeing that every one was clear of the settlement of
184 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. Avisibba at the rate of a knot and a half an hour, and
Aug. in. a 2.45 ? having discovered a convenient camp, halted for
the night. We waited in vain for Mr. Jephson, and the
column fired signal guns, rowed out into the stream, and
with a glass searched the shore up and down, but there
was no sign of camp-fire, or smoke above the woods,
which generally covered the forest as with a fog in still
weather, no sound of rifle-shot, blare of trumpet, or
human voice. The caravan, we thought, must have
found a fine track, and proceeded to the cataracts ahead.
On the 16th the river column pulled hard up stream,
passed Mabengu villages, came up to a deep but narrow
creek flowing from the south bank into the Nevva, as the
Aruwimi was now called, looked anxiously up stream, and
an hour later we had reached the foot of Mabengu Rapids.
On the right bank, opposite to where we selected a
camping-place, was a large settlement that of Itiri.
Then, having as yet, met no traces of the absent column,
I sent boat's crew up the creek to search for traces
of fording. After ascending several miles up the creek,
the boat's crew returned unsuccessful ; then I despatched
it back again to within half-an-hour's distance of
Avisibba, and at midnight the boat returned to announce
their failure to find any traces of the missing.
On the 17th the boat's crew, with "Three O'clock,"
the hunter (Saat Tato), and six scouts, w T ere sent to our
camping-place of the 15th, with orders for the hunter
and his six scouts to follow the path observed there-
inland until they had struck the trail of the column,
then to follow the trail and overtake them, and return
with them to the river. On the boat's return, the
coxswain informed me that they had seen the trail
about 7 miles (3 hours' march). I concluded that
Mr. Jephson had led his column south, instead of
E. by N. and E. N. E., according to course of river, and
that Saat Tato would overtake them, and return next
day.
Our condition at the river camp was this. We had
thirty-nine canoemen and boatmen, twenty-eight sick
people, three Europeans, and three boys, and one of the
OUR CONDITION AT MABENGU RAPIDS. 187
Europeans (Lieutenant Stairs) was suffering from a dan- ISST.
gerous wound, and required the constant care of the sur- Allg - 17>
geon. One man had died of dysentery at Avisibba. We
had a dying idiot in camp, who had become idiotic some
days before. We had twenty-nine suffering from pleurisy,
dysentery, incurable debility, and eight suffering from
wounds. One called Khalfan was half strangled with
the wound in his windpipe, another called Saadi, wounded
in the arm, appeared dangerously ill, his arm was
swollen, and gave him great pain. Out of the thirty-
nine available I had despatched three separate parties
in different directions to scout for news of the missing
column, lest it was striking across some great bend to
reach the river a long distance higher up, while we, unable
to stir, were on the other side of the curve. Across the
river the people of Itiri, perceiving we were so quiet on
our side of the river, seemed to be meditating an attack,
and only two miles below on our bank was the large
settlement of Mabengu, from whose inhabitants we
might hear at any moment, while our little force of
thirty-nine men, scattered in various directions, were
searching for the missing 300. But the poet said that
it became
" No man to nurse despair ;
But in the teeth of clenched antagonisms
To follow the worthiest till he die."
I quote from my diary of August 1 8th.
The idiot fell asleep last night. His troubles are
over, and we have buried him.
I wonder if Tennyson were here, who wrote such
noble lines, what he would think of our state. A few
days ago I was chief of 370 men, rich in goods, munitions
of war, medicines, and contented with such poor com-
forts as we had, and to-day I have actually only eighteen
men left fit for a day's march, the rest have vanished.
I should be glad to know where.
If 389 picked men, such as we were when we left
Yambuya, are unable to reach Lake Albert, how can
Major Barttelot with 250 men make his way through
this endless forest. We have travelled, on an average,
188 /A T DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. 8 hours per day for forty-four days since leaving Yam-
ug. is. fouyc^ At two miles per hour we ought, by this date,
m ' to have arrived on the Lake shore, but, instead of
being there, we have accomplished just a third of the
distance. The poet says we must not " nurse despair,"
for to do that is to lie down and die, to make no effort,
and abandon hope.
Our wounded take considerable time to heal. The
swelling is increasing, the wounds are most painful, not
one has yet proved fatal, but they are all quite incapa-
citated from duty.
The fifth rain of this month began at 8 A.M. Had we
not enough afflictions without this perpetual rain ? One
is almost tempted to think that the end is approach-
ing. The very " flood gates of heaven " seem opened,
and nature is dissolving. Such a body of rain is
falling that the view of all above is obscured by the
amazing fall of rain -drops. Think of the countless
numbers of leaves in this forest, and that every leaf
drops ten to twenty times per minute, and that from the
soaking ground rises a grey cloud of minute rain in
vapour, and that the air is full of floating globules of
water and flying shreds of leaves ! And add to all this
the intense fall of rain as the blast comes bearing down
the top, and whips drowning showers on us, and sways
the countless branches, and rushes wailing through the
glades with such force, as though it would wrench the
groaning trees out of the earth. The moaning and
groaning of the forest is far from comforting, and the
crashing and fall of mighty trees is far from assuring, ^
but it is a positive terror when the thunder rumbles*
above, and its sounds reverberating through the
aisles and crooked corridors of the forest, and the
blazing lightning darts spitefully hither and thither its
forky tongues and sheets of flame, and explodes over our
heads with overwhelming and deafening shocks. It would
be a vast relief for our sick and wounded to be free of
such sounds. An European battle has no such variety.
And throughout the day this has continued unceasingly.
It is now about the tenth hour of the day. It is scarcely
PERPETUAL RAIN IN THE FOREST. 189
possible daylight will ever appear again, at least so I
judge from the human faces steeped in misery. Their Aug - 18<
owners appear stupefied by terror, woe, sickness, loss of
friends, hunger, rain and thunder, and general wretched-
ness. They may be seen crouching under plan tain -
leaf sheds, native shields, cotton shelters, straw mats,
earthen and copper pots above their heads, even saddles,
tent canvass covers, blankets, each body wreathed in
blue vapour, self-absorbed with speechless anguish. The
poor asses with their ears drawn back, inverted eyes
and curving backs, captive fowls with drooping crests
represent abject discomfort. Alas ! the glory of this
earth is quite extinguished. When she finally recovered
her beauty, and her children assumed their proud
bearing, and the growing lakes and increasing rivers
were dried up, and how out of chaos the sun rose
to comfort the world again I know not. My own
feeling of misery had so exhausted me that a long sleep
wrapped me in merciful oblivion.
August 19th. Still without news of land caravan.
The scouts have returned without having seen any
traces of the missing. Two of the wounded men are
doing very badly. Their sufferings appear to be
terrible.
August 20th. Still without news of caravan. Young
Saadi wounded by a poisoned arrow on the morning of
the 14th, is attacked with tetanus, and is in a very
dangerous condition. Wherefore I take it to be a
vegetable poison. Khalfan's neck and spine have become
rigid. I have given both morphine by injection, but
the doses though double, that is in half grains, do not
appear to ease the sufferers much. Stairs is just the
same as yesterday, neither worse nor better. The wound
is painful, still he has appetite, and enjoys sleep. I fear
the effect on him of knowing what the other patients are
undergoing.
O O
It is strange that out of 300 people and 3 officers, not
one has sense enough to know that he has lost the road,
and that the best way of recovering it would be to
retrace their steps to Avisibba and try again.
190 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. August 21st. Poor Khalfan wounded in the windpipe
Aug. 21. on ^g iQfa instant, and the young fellow Saadi hurt on
:in * the morning of the 14th ; both died in the night, after
intolerable agonies one at 4 A.M., Saadi about midnight.
Khalfan's wound was caused by a poisoned arrow ; but
the poison must have been laid on the arrow some days
before it was used. He had been daily getting weaker
from abstinence from food, because of pain. The wound
did not seem dangerous ; it had closed up, externally,
and there were no signs of inflammation ; but the poor
fellow complained he could not swallow. He had sub-
sisted on liquid food made of plaintain flour gruel. On
the 8th day his neck became rigid and contracted ; he
could not articulate, but murmur ; the head was inclined
forward, the abdomen was shrunk, and on his face
lines of pain and anxiety became fixed. Yesterday he
had some slight spasms. I gave two injections of
half a grain hypodermically, which relieved him for an
hour, but, not much accustomed to treat patients with
morphia, I feared giving larger doses. Saadi was
punctured on the right forearm, midway between wrist
and elbow a mere wound, such as a coarse stocking
needle would have made. The wound was sucked by a
comrade ; it was syringed with warm water and dressed,
but on the morning of the fourth day he was attacked
with tetanus of so severe a kind that his case was hope-
less from our sheer inability to relieve him from the
frightful spasms. Morphia injections rendered him
slightly somnolent ; but the spasms continued, and
Saadi died on the lllth hour after receiving the wound.
I am inclined to think that the arrow was smeared for
the fight of the 1 4th the night previous.
A third man died of dysentery before noon, making
the fourth death in this camp.
At 5 P.M. the caravan arrived. Its sufferings have
been great from mental distress. There have been three
deaths also in the land column. Maruf, punctured in
shoulder, died of tetanus on the night of the 19th, 24
hours earlier than Saadi. This may have been due to
the travel accelerating the action of the poison.
SUFFERINGS OF MEMBERS OF THE CARAVAN. 191
One man named All was shot by an iron-barbed
arrow, and died of internal haemorrhage, the arrow Aug> " l -
having pierced the liver. Another succumbed to
dysentery immediately after the heavy rain which had
afflicted us on the 18th ; thus we have had seven fatal
cases since the 14th. We have several others, in whom
life is flickering. The column brought in two others
wounded by arrows. The wounds are much inflamed,
and exude a gangrenous matter.
Lieut. Stairs still appears hearty, and appears as
though he was recovering, despite the influence these
many deaths might have on his nerves. The surgeon
having appeared, I feel an intense relief. I hate to see
pain, and take no delight in sick men's groans. I feel
pleasure in ministering to their needs only when con-
scious I can cure.
We have now about 373 in camp, but 60 of them
appear fitter for a hospital than to continue our wander-
ing life ; but in this savage region not even rest and
food can be secured for the weary souls.
A few more days of this disheartening work, attend-
ing on the sick, looking at the agonies of men dying
from lockjaw, listening to their muffled screams, observ-
ing general distress and despondency, from hunger, and
the sad anxiety caused by the unaccountable absence of
their brothers and comrades, with the loss of 300 men
impending over me must have exercised a malign influence
over myself. I am conscious of the insidious advance of
despair towards me. Our food has been bananas or
plantains, boiled or fried, our other provisions being re-
served for perhaps an extreme occasion which may present
itself in the near future. The dearest passion of my life
has been, I think, to succeed in my undertakings ; but
the last few days have begun to fill me with a doubt of
success in the present one.
What the feelings of the officers have been I have not
heard yet; but the men have frankly confessed that
they have been delivered from a hell.
The following note has just been placed in my
hands :
192
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887.
Aug. 21.
Itiri.
"Dear SIR, August
" Saat Tato reached us at 3 P.M. yesterday with your order to
follow him. We at once recmssed the river (the creek which the boat's
crew had searched) and hope to reach you to-night. I can understood
how great your anxiety must have been, and deeply regret having
caused it.
" I have the honour to be,
" &c., &c., &c.
" A. M. JEPHSON."
On the 22nd we moved camp to the foot of the
highest Mabengu Rapids, and on the following day pro-
ceeded above the rapids.
I then took the opportunity of mustering the people.
The following returns tell their own tale :
Company No. 1 .
Captain Stairs, No. 2
Captain Nelson, No. 3
Captain Jephson, .No. 4
Europeans
Boys .
Soudanese
Somalis
Cooks .
Donkey boy
Sick
Dead .
Healthy.
8'J
69
67
63
6
12
10
6
2
1
57
373
16
389
Sick.
6
14
16
21
Dead.
4
5
4
3
Loads.
43
50
72
72
The experiences of the column during its wanderings
appeared to confirm me in my impressions that the
Aruwimi in this region of rapids was not so much
utilized by the natives as it was below. Large settle-
ments had been discovered inland ; the scouts had
traversed the forest by several well-trodden tracks
which led from the river to the interior. The river
banks were not so populous, the settlements were now
generally a little way inland, and along the river bank
was a perceptible path which materially assisted us.
Ever since leaving Utiri we had noted this fact. On the
24th we travelled a few miles, and camped below Avu-
gadu Rapids, near a rich plantain grove, and the next
IRE NEPOKO RIVER. 193
day passed the rapids and formed a comfortable camp in 1886
a somewhat open portion of the forest, haunted by Augt
fishermen. On the 26th the column on land swung
along at a good rate, while we had a long stretch of un-
disturbed river, and had to pull hard to keep pace with
them until both columns met in one of the largest
villages of the Avejeli tribe established in front of the
Nepoko mouth.
This latter river, of which Dr. Junker was the first to
inform us, and which he had crossed far up, tumbled
into the Aruwimi, now called the Itiri, by a series of
CASCADES OF THE NEPOKO.
cascades, over reefs of shaly rock, from an altitude of
40 feet. The mouth was about 300 yards wide, narrow-
ing to about 250 yards above the cascade. The natives
had staked a considerable distance of the reef, to which
to attach their large funnel-shaped baskets for the
reception of the fish washed down the rapids. The
colour of the Nepoko was of chocolate, that of the Itiri
was of tea and milk.
Had I known that one week later I should have
encountered Arabs, and their desperate bands of Man-
yuema, there is no doubt that I should have en-
VOL. i. N
194 IN DARKEST AFEICA.
1887. deavoured to put a degree of latitude between the
centre of their influence and our route. Even as it
wa s, I mentally debated a change of route, from some
remarks made to me by Binza (Dr. Junker's Monbuttu
boy), who suggested that it were better to travel through
lands inhabited by " decent men," to such a horrid
region infested by peoples who did not deserve the name
of men applied to them, and that the Momvu tribes
were sure of according a welcome to those who could
show in return that they appreciated hospitality. Binza
was most enticing in his descriptions of the Momvu
nation. But food with the Avejeli was abundant and
various, and we hoped that a change had come over the
land. For ever since we had observed a difference in
the architecture of the native dwellings, we had observed
a change for the better in the diet of the people. Below
Panga Falls the aborigines principally subsisted on
manioc, and on the different breads, puddings, cakes,
and porridges to which they converted these tubers. It
will not be forgotten, perhaps, that tapioca is made
out of manioc or cassava. But above Panga Falls
manioc had been gradually replaced by plantain groves
and the plantain is a much more excellent edible than
manioc for an expedition, and the groves had been
clearly growing into higher importance, therefore we
hoped that happier days were in store for us. There
were also fields of Indian corn, manioc, yams, and colo-
cassia, plots of tobacco for the smokers, and to our great
joy we came across many fowls. A halt was ordered
that the sorely-tried people might recuperate.
In their very excusable eagerness for meat the Zanzi-
baris and Soudanese were very reckless. No sooner was
a fowl sighted than there was a general scramble for it ;
some reckless fellows used their rifles to shoot the
chickens, and many a cartridge was expended uselessly
for which due punishment was frequently awarded. The
orders were most positive that no ammunition was to
be wasted, and the efforts made to detect all breaches of
these orders were most energetic, but when did a Zanzi-
bari obey orders when away from his employer's eye ?
RECKLESSNESS OF ZANZIBAEIS AND SOUDANESE. 195
The indiscriminate shooting of this day resulted in the im.
shooting of one of the brave band of hard-working Aug - 26 -
pioneers. A bullet from a Winchester struck him in the
foot, the bones of which were pulverized and its amputa-
tion became imperative. Surgeon Parke performed the
operation in a most skilful and expeditious manner, and
as the good surgeon was most resolute when " one of his
cases " required care this unfortunate * young man had
to be lifted in and out by eight men, must needs have
the largest share of a canoe that nothing might offend
the tender wound, and of necessity required and received
the most bounteous supply of the best food and to have
servants to wait upon him in short, such a share of
good things and ready services that I often envied him,
and thought that for a sixpence in addition I would not
mind exchanging places with him.
Of course another severe lecture followed, and there
were loud protestations that they would all pay implicit
attention in the future, and of course before the next
day every promise was forgotten. There is much to be
said for these successive breaches of promise. They
relieve the mind from vast care and all sense of respon-
sibility. No restraint burdens it, and an easy gladness
brightens the face. Why should a man, being an animal,
continually fetter himself with obligations as though he
were a moral being to be held accountable for every idle
word uttered in a gushing moment ?
On the 28th the river column consisting now of the
Advance steel boat and sixteen canoes, pushed up river
to a camp five miles above Avejeli. The land party was
left far behind, for they were struggling through a series
of streams and creeks, and buried in depths of suffo-
catingly close bush, and did not arrive until the next
day at noon, when they were urged to proceed about
two hours higher, whither we followed them.
We arrived at the foot of a big cataract on the 30th,
* Was he very unfortunate ? I paid Ugarrowwa for thirteen months'
board, sent him to Stanley Falls, thence down the Congo and by sea to
Madeira, via the Cape to Zanzibar, where he arrived in a state well
described by " as fat as butter."
196 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
188? and by observation ascertained that we had reached
Aug. so. halfway to the Albert Lake, Kavalli being in 30 30' and
R*iver Yambuya in 25 3^'. Our camp on this day was in about
27 47'.
We had 163 geographical miles in an air line to make
yet, which we could never accomplish within 64 days as
we had performed the western half of the route. The
people were in an impoverished state of body, and
mentally depressed, ulcers were raging like an epidemic,
anaemia had sapped their vitality. They were told the
half-way camp was reached, but they replied with
murmurs of unbelief. They asked, " How can the master
tell ? Will that instrument show him the road ? Will
it tell him which is the path ? Why does it not tell us,
then, that we may see and believe ? Don't the natives-
know their own country better ? Which of them ha&
seen grass ? Do they not all say that all the world is.
covered with trees and thick bush ? Bah the master
talks to us as though we were children and had no
proper perception."
The morning of the evil date, August 31st, dawned as
on other days. It struggled through dense clouds of
mist, and finally about 9 o'clock the sun appeared, pale,
indistinct, a mere circle of lustreless light. But in the
meantime we were hard at our frequent task of cutting a
broad highway through the bush and forest, through
which the boat could be carried bodily by 60 men,
standing underneath ; the crew of the flotilla were
wrestling with the mad waters, and shoving their
vessels up steep slopes of a racing river.
The highway was finished in an hour, and a temporary
camp was located above. The canoes began to arrive.
I left the Doctor to superintend the pioneers bearing the
boat, but he presently returned to report that the boat
could not be lifted. I retraced my steps to oversee the
operation personally. I had succeeded in conveying it
half way when my European servant came running at a
mad pace, crying out as he ran : " Sir, oh, sir, Emin
Pasha has arrived."
" Emin Pasha ! "
MANYUEMA MISTAKEN FOR EMIN AND FOLLOWERS. 199
" Yes, sir. I have seen him in a canoe. His red flag, iss?.
like ours (the Egyptian), is hoisted up at the stern. It Aug - 31 -
is quite true, sir ! " *!j
Of course we bounded forward ; the boat was dropped
as though it was red hot. A race began, master and
man striving for the lead. In the camp the excitement
was also general. It was owing, we soon heard, to the
arrival of nine Manyuema, who served one called Uledi
Balyuz, known to natives by the name of Ugarrowwa,
and who was reported to be settled about eight marches
up river, and commanding several hundred armed
men.
The Arabs were, then, so far inland on the Upper
Aruwimi, and I had flattered myself that I had heard
the last of these rovers ! We were also told that there
were fifty of them camped six miles above on their way, by
orders of Ugarrowwa, to explore the course of the river, to
ascertain if communication with Stanley Falls could be
obtained by the unknown stream on whose banks they
had settled.
We imparted the information they desired, whereupon
they said they would return to their camp and prepare
for a hospitable reception on the morrow. The Zanzi-
baris were considerably elated at the news, for what
reason may shortly be seen.
The first absconder was one Juma, who deserted with
half a hundredweight of biscuit that night.
On the 1st September, in the early morning, we were
clear of the rapids, and, rowing up in company with the
caravan, were soon up at the village where the Manyuema
were said to be camped. At the gate there was a dead
male child, literally hacked to pieces ; within the pal-
isades was a dead woman, who had been speared. The
Manyuema had disappeared. It seemed to us then that
some of our men had damped their joy at the encounter
with us, by suggesting that the slaves with them might
probably cause in us a revulsion of feeling. Suspicion
of this caused an immediate change in their feelings.
Their fears impelled them to decamp instantly. Their
society was so much regretted, however, that five
200 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. Zanzibaris, taking five loads, four of ammunition and
one of salt, disappeared.
River. We resumed our journey, and halted at the base of
another series of rapids.
The next day Saat Tato, having explored the rapids,
reported encouragingly, and expressed his confidence
that without much difficulty these could also be sur-
mounted. This report stimulated the boatmen to make
another trial. While the river column was busy in its
own peculiar and perilous work, a search party was
despatched to hunt news of the missing men, and
returned with one man, a box of ammunition, and three
rifles. The search party had discovered the deserters in
the forest, with a case of ammunition open, which they
were distributing. In trying to surround them, the
deserters became alarmed and scudded away, leaving
three of their rifles and a case behind them.
On the 3rd of September five more deserted, carrying
away one case of Remington cartridges, one case of
Winchester cartridges, one box of European provisions,
and one load of fine Arab clothing, worth 50. Another
was detected with a box of provisions open before him,
having already abstracted a tin of sago, one tin of
Liebig, a tin of butter, and one of milk. Ten men had
thus disappeared in a couple of days. At this rate, in
sixty days the Expedition would be ended. I consulted
the chiefs, but I could gain no encouragement to try
what extreme measures would effect. It was patent,
however, to the dullest that we should be driven to
resort to extremities soon to stop this wholesale desertion
and theft. Since leaving Yambuya we had lost forty-
eight rifles and fifteen cases of Maxim, Winchester, and
Remington ammunition.
The day following four men deserted, and one was
caught in the act of desertion. The people were accord-
ingly mustered, and sixty men, suspected of being
capable of desertion, as no head man would guarantee
their fidelity, were rendered helpless by abstracting the
mainsprings of the rifles, which we took and locked up.
Demoralisation had set in rapidly since we had met the
WHOLESALE DESERTIONS AND THEFTS. 201
Manyuema. Nothing was safe in their hands. Boxes iss?.
had been opened, cloth had been stolen, beads had been Sept> 5 -
pilfered, much ammunition had been taken out of the R^r
cases, and either thrown, or secreted as a reserve, by
the way.
On September 5th we camped near Hippo Broads, so
called because the river was fine and broad, and a large
herd of hippopotami were seen. The site of our resting
place was an abandoned clearing, which had become the
haunts of these amphibiae, and exquisite bits of green-
sward caused us to imagine for a moment that possibly
the open country was not far. Foragers returned after
a visit into the interior, on both banks, with four goats
and a few bananas, numbers of roast rats, cooked beetles,
and slugs. On the 6th we reached a cataract opposite
the Bafaido settlement, where we obtained a respectable
supply of plantains. The day following we dragged
our canoes over a platform of rock, over a projecting
ledge of which the river tumbled 10 feet.
From the Bafaido cataract we journeyed along a
curving river to Avakubi Rapids, and formed a camp at
the landing-place. A path led hence into the interior,
which the hungry people soon followed. While scouring
the country for food, a woman and child were found,
who were brought to me to be examined. But the
cleverest interpreter was at fault. No one understood a
syllable of the meaningless babble.
Some more rapids were reached the next day. We
observed that the oil-palm flourished throughout this
section.
Palm nuts were seen in heaps near each village. We
even discovered some palms lately planted, which
showed some regard for posterity. Achmet, the Somali,
who had insisted on leaving Yambuya, in accom-
panying us had been a passenger ever since we had
struck the river above Yankonde, was reported to be
dying. He was said to suffer from melanosis. What-
ever the disease might be, he had become singularly
emaciated, being a literal skeleton covered lightly with
skin.
202
DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. From this camp we rounded a point, passed over a
Sept. 5. snor w i nc ]i n nr course of river, and in an hour approached
Nepoko (* r! 11-11
River, m view oi an awful raging stream choked by narrow
banks of shale. The outlook beyond the immediate
foreview was first of a series of rolling waves whirling
and tossed into spray, descending in succeeding lines,
and a great fall of about 30 feet, and above that a
steep slope of wild rapids, and the whole capped with
mist, and tearing down tumultuously towards us.
This was appalling consider-
ing the state of the column.
There were about 120 loads
in the canoes, and between
fifty and sixty sick and feeble people. To leave these in
the woods to their fate was impossible, to carry the loads
and advance appeared equally so ; yet to drag the canoes
and bear the boat past such a long stretch of wild
water appeared to be a task beyond our utmost powers.
Leaving the vessels below the falls and rapids, I led
the Expedition by land to the destroyed settlement of
Navabi, situated near a bend of the Itiri (Aruwimi)
above the disturbed stream, where we established a
CAMP AT NAVABL 203
camp. The sick dragged themselves after the caravan, 1887.
those too feeble and helpless to travel the distance were Sept * &
lifted up and borne to the camp. Officers then mustered
the companies for the work of cutting a broad highway
through the bush and hauling the canoes. This task
occupied two whole days, while No. 1 Company foraged
far and near to obtain food, but with only partial
success.
Navabi must have been a remarkable instance of
aboriginal prosperity once. It possessed groves of
ATTACKING AN ELEPHANT IN THE ITURI R1VEH.
the elais and plantain, large plots of tobacco and
Indian corn ; the huts under the palms looked almost
idyllic ; at least so we judged from two which were left
standing, and gave us a bit of an aspect at once tropical,
pretty, and apparently happy. Elsewhere the whole
was desolate. Some parties, which we conjectured be-
longed to Ugarrowwa, had burnt the settlement, chopped
many of the palms down, levelled the banana plantations,
and strewed the ground with the bones of the defenders.
Five skulls of infants were found within our new camp at
Navabi.
204 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. On the 12th, as we resumed our journey, we were
; compelled to leave five men who were in an un-
conscious state and dying. Achmet, the Somali, whom
we had borne all the way from Yambuya, was one
of them.
From Navabi we proceeded to the landing place of
Memberri, which evidently was a frequent haunt of
elephants. One of these not far off was observed
bathing luxuriously in the river near the right bank.
Hungry for meat, I was urged to try my chance. On
this Expedition 1 had armed myself with the Express
rifles of 577-bore, which Indian sportsmen so much
applaud. The heavy 8 -bores were with Major Barttelot
and Mr. Jameson. I succeeded in planting six shots in
the animal at a few yards distance, but to no purpose
except to unnecessarily wound him.
At Memberri we made a muster, and according to
returns our numbers stood :
August 2'3rd ... . . . 373 men.
September 12th. . . . . . 343 meu.
14 deserted and 16 deaths ; carriers 235 loads 227 ; sick 58
Added to these eloquent records every member of the
Expedition suffered from hunger, and the higher we as-
cended the means for satisfying the ever-crying want of
food appeared to diminish, for the Bakusu and Basongora
slaves, under the Manyuema head men of Ugarrowwa,
had destroyed the plantations, and either driven the
populations to unknown recesses in the forest or had
extirpated them.
On the following day we reached Amiri Falls. The
previous day the head man, Saadi, had been reproached
for leaving one named Makupete to return along the
track to search, for a box of ammunition that was
reported to be missing, whereupon Saadi took the
unwise resolution of proceeding to hunt up Makupete.
Then one, Uledi Manga, disgusted with the severe work
and melancholy prospect before us, absconded with
another box of ammunition.
WE EEACH UQARROWWA'S STATION. 205
We had only three Zanzibar! donkeys left. Out of iss?.
the six with which we had started from Yambuya, one Sei>t - 13 -
of the three, probably possessed with a presentiment Fails"
that the caravan was doomed, took it into his head that
it was better to return before it was too late, and
deserted also. Whither he went no one knew. It is
useless to search in the forest for a lost man, donkey,
or article. Like the waves divided by a ship's prow
uniting at the stern, so the forest enfolds past finding
within its deep shades whatsoever enters, and reveals
nothing.
Near a single old fishing hut our camp was pitched
on the 15th. The river after its immense curve north-
ward and eastward now trended south-easterly, and we
had already reached S. Lat. 1 24' from 1 58'.
Having been in the habit of losing a box of ammu-
nition per diem for the last few days, having tried
almost every art of suppressing this robbery, we now
had recourse to lashing the boxes in series of eights, and
consigning each to the care of a head man, and holding
him responsible for them. This we hoped would check
the excuse that the men disappeared into the forest
under all kinds of wants.
On the 16th of September, while halting for the mid-
day rest and lunch, several loud reports of musketry
were heard up-river. I sent Saat Tato to explore, and
in half-an-hour we heard three rifle-shots announcing
success ; and shortly after three canoes besides our own
appeared loaded with men in white dresses, and gay
with crimson flags. These came, so they reported, to
welcome us in the name of Ugarrowwa, their chief, who
would visit my evening camp. After exchanging com-
pliments, they returned up-river, firing their muskets
and singing gaily.
At the usual hour we commenced the afternoon march,
and at 4 P.M. were in camp just below Ugarrowwa's
station. At the same time a roll of drums, the boom-
ing of many muskets, and a flotilla of canoes, announced
the approach of the Arab leader. About 50 strong,
robust fellows accompanied him, besides singers and
206 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. women, every one of whom was in prime condition
lmi!i 6 ' ofb , od y-
Fan" ^ ne leader gave his name as Ugarrowwa, the Zanzibar
term for " Lualaba," or native name of " Ruarawwa,"
known formerly as Uledi Balyuz (or the Consuls
Uledi). He had accompanied Captains Speke and Grant,
1860-3, as a tent-boy, and had been left or had de-
serted in Unyoro. He offered as a gift to us two fat
goats and about 40 Ibs. of picked rice, a few ripe
plantains, and fowls.
Upon asking him if there was any prospect of food
being obtained for the people in the vicinity of his
station, he admitted, to our sorrow, that his followers in
their heedless way had destroyed everything, that it
w^as impossible to check them because they were furious
against the " pagans " for the bloody retaliation and
excesses the aborigines had committed against many
and many of their countrymen during their searcli for
ivory.
Asked what country we were in, he replied that we
were in Bunda, the natives of which were Babunda ;
that the people on the north bank in the neighbourhood
of his station were called Bapai or Bavaiya.
He also said that his raiders had gone eastward a
month's journey, and had seen from a high hill (Kasso-
lolo ?), a grassy country extending to the eastward.
Further information was to the effect that his caravan,
600 strong, had left the Lualaba at Kibonges (above
Leopold R.), and that in nine moons he had travelled the
distance of 370 geographical miles, about a N.E. course,
throughout continuous forest without having seen as
much grass as would cover the palm of his hand ; that
he had only crossed one river, the Lindi, before he
sighted the Ituri, as the Aruwimi was now called ; that
he had heard from Arab traders that the Lulu (Lowwa)
rose from a small lake called the Ozo, where there was
a vast quantity of ivory.
Four days higher Ugarrowwa possessed another station
manned with 100 guns^ near the Lenda river, a tribu-
tary of the Aruwimi, which entered it from the south
VISIT TO THE ARAB SETTLEMENT. 207
bank. His people had sown rice, of which he had brought 1887.
us some, and onions ; but near each settlement was a Sept - 16 -
waste, as it was not policy to permit such " murderous
pagans " to exist near them, otherwise he and his people's
lives were not safe. He had lost about 200 men of the
Bakusu and Basangora tribes, and many a fine Manyuema
headman. One time he had lost 40, of whom not one
had returned. He had an Arab guest at his station who
had lost every soul out of his caravan.
I observed a disposition on his part to send some
men with me to the Lake, and there appeared to be no
difficulty in housing with him my sick men for a con-
sideration to be hereafter agreed upon.
On the 17th we proceeded a short distance to encamp
opposite Ugarrowwa's station.
In the afternoon I was rowed across in my boat to the
Arab settlement, and was hospitably received. I found
the station to be a large settlement, jealously fenced
round with tall palisades and short planks lashed across
as screens against chance arrows. In the centre, facing
the river, was the house of the chief, commodious, lofty,
and comfortable, the walls of which were pierced for
musketry. It resembled a fort with its lofty and
frowning walls of baked clay. On passing through a
passage which separated Ugarrowwa's private apart-
ments from the public rooms, I had a view of a great
court 60 feet square, surrounded by buildings and filled
with servants. It suggested something baronial in its
busy aspect, the abundant service, the great difference
of the domestics, amplitude of space, and plenty. The
place was certainly impregnable against attack, and,
if at all spiritedly defended, a full battalion would have
been necessary to have captured this outpost of a slave
trader.
I was informed that the river for many days' march
appeared to flow from the eastward ; that the Ihuru, a
considerable distance up, flowed from the northward and
joined the Ituri, and that, besides the Lenda, there was
another affluent called. the Ibina, which entered from the
south.
208 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. Somewhere higher up also, vaguely given as ten days'
1 by others twenty days' march, another Arab was settled
g wa r> s W " wno was called Kilonga-Longa, though his real name was
station, also Uledi.
At this settlement I saw the first specimen of the
tribe of dwarfs who were said to be thickly scattered
north of the Ituri, from the Ngaiyu eastward. She
measured thirty -three inches in height, and was a per-
fectly formed young woman of about seventeen, of a
glistening and smooth sleekness of body. Her figure
was that of a miniature coloured lady, not wanting in a
certain grace, and her face was very prepossessing. Her
complexion was that of a quadroon, or of the colour of
yellow ivory. Her eyes were magnificent, but absurdly
large for such a small creature almost as large as that
of a young gazelle ; full, protruding, and extremely
lustrous. Absolutely nude, the little demoiselle was
quite possessed, as though she were accustomed to be
admired, and really enjoyed inspection. She had been
discovered near the sources of the Ngaiyu.
Ugarrowwa, having shown me all his treasures, in-
cluding the splendid store of ivory he had succeeded in
collecting, accompanied me to the boat, and sent away
with me large trays of exquisitely cooked rice, and an
immense bowl full of curried fowl, a dish that I
am not fond of, but which inspired gratitude in my
camp.
Our landing-place presented a lively scene. The
sellers of bananas, potatoes, sugar-cane, rice, flour of
manioc, and fowls clamoured for customers, and cloths
and beads exchanged hands rapidly. This is the kind
of life which the Zanzibaris delight in, like almost all
other natives, and their happy spirits were expressed in
sounds to which we had long been strangers.
Early this morning I had sent a canoe to pick up any
stragglers that might have been unable to reach camp,
and before 3 P.M. five sick men, who had surrendered
themselves to their fate, were brought in, and shortly
after a muster was held. The following were the returns
of men able to march :
RETURNS OF MEN ABLE TO MARCH.
209
No. 1 Company
No. 2
No. 3
No. 4
Cooks .
Boys . " .
Europeans .
Soudanese
Sick
Departed from Yambuya
Loss by desertion and death
Men.
69
57
60
61
3
9
6
6
271
56
327
389
"62
Chiefs.
4.
4
4
4
16
The boat and canoes were manned, and the sick
transported to the Arab settlement, arrangements having
been made for boarding them at the rate of five dollars
each per month until Major Barttelot should appear,
or some person bearing an order from me.
It will be remembered that we met Ugarrowwa's men
on the 31st of August, one day's march from Avejeli,
opposite the Nepoko mouth. These men, instead of pur-
suing their way down river, had returned to Ugarrowwa
to inform him of the news they had received from us,
believing that their mission was accomplished. It was
Ugarrowwa's wish to obtain gunpowder, as his supply
was nearly exhausted. Major Barttelot possessed two
and a quarter tons of this explosive, and, as reported by
us, was advancing up river, but as he had so much
baggage it would take several months before he could
arrive so far. I wished to communicate with Major
Barttelot, and accordingly I stipulated with Ugarrowwa
that if his men continued their way down river along
the south or left bank until they delivered a letter into
his hands, I would give him an order for three hundred-
weight of powder. He promised to send forty scouts
within a month, and expressed great gratitude. (He
actually did send them, as he promised, between the 20th
and 25th of October. They succeeded in reaching Wasp
Rapids, 165 miles from Yambuya, whence they were
obliged to return, owing to losses and the determined
hostility of the natives.)
VOL. i. o
1887.
Sept. 17.
Ugarrow-
wa's
station.
210 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. Our Zanzibar! deserters had been deluded like our-
Sept. 17. se j veg Imagining that Ugarrowwa's people had con-
Ugarrow- . . -, ,, . V> . . , ? "
wa ' 8 tmued their journey along some inland route westward,
station, they had hastened westward in pursuit to join them,
whereas we discovered they had returned eastward
to their master. The arrangements made with Ugar-
rowwa, and the public proclamation of the man himself
before all, would, I was assured, suffice to prevent further
desertion.
We were pretty tired of the river work with its
numerous rapids, and I suggested to Ugarrowwa that I
should proceed by land ; the Arab, however, was earnest
in dissuading me from that course, as the people would
be spared the necessity of carrying many loads, the sick
having been left behind, and informed me that his in-
formation led him to believe that the river was much
more navigable above for many days than below.
CHAPTER IX.
UGARROWWA'S TO KILONGA-LONGA'S.
Ugarrowwa sends us three Zanzibar! deserters \Ve make an example
The "Express" rifles Conversation with Rashid-The Lcnda
river Troublesome rapids- Scarcity of food Some of Kilonga-
Longa's followers Meeting of the rivers Ihuru and Ituri State
and numbers of the Expedition Illness of Captain Nelson We
send couriers ahead to Kilonga-Longa's The sick encampment
Randy and the guinea fowl Scarcity of food Illness caused
by the forest pears Fanciful menus More desertions Asmani
drowned Our condition in brief Uledi's suggestion Umari's climb
My donkey is shot for food We strike the track of the Manyuema
and arrive at their village
ONCE more the Expedition consisted of picked men. iss?.
My mind was relieved of anxiety respecting the rear Sept>
column, and of the fate which threatened the sick men. g w?s W "
We set out from Ugarrrowa's station with 180 loads in station -
the canoes and boat, forty-seven loads to be carried
once in four days by alternate companies. The Arabs
accompanied us for a few hours on the 19th to start us
on our road and to wish us success in our venture.
We had scarcely been all collected in our camp, and
the evening was rapidly becoming dusky, when a canoe
from Ugarrowwa appeared with three Zanzibaris bound
as prisoners. Inquiring the cause of this, I was astonished
to find that they were deserters whom Ugarrowwa had
picked up soon after reaching his station. They had
absconded with rifles, and their pouches showed that
they had contrived to filch cartridges on the road. I
rewarded Ugarrowwa with a revolver and 200 cartridges.
The prisoners were secured for the night, but before
retiring I debated carefully as to what method was best
to deal with these people. If this were permitted to
212 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. proceed without the strongest measures, we should in a
Ugarrow- snor ^ time be compelled to retrace our steps, and all the
wa's lives and bitter agonies of the march would have been
expended in vain.
In the morning " all hands " were mustered, and an
address was delivered to the men in fitting words, to
which all assented ; and all agreed that we had en-
deavoured our utmost to do our duty, that we had all
borne much, but that the people on this occasion
appeared to be all slaves, and possessed no moral sense
whatever. They readily conceded that if natives
attempted to steal our rifles, which were " our souls,"
we should be justified in shooting them dead, and
that if men, paid for their labour, protected and treated
kindly, as they were, attempted to cut our throats in the
night, were equally liable to be shot.
" Well then," said I, " what are these doing but taking
our arms, and running away with our means of defence.
You say that you would shoot natives, if they stood in
your way preventing your progress onward or retreat
backward. What are these doing ? For if you have no
rifles left, or ammunition, can you march either forward
or backward ? "
" No," they admitted.
" Very well, then, you have condemned them to death.
One shall die to-day, another to-morrow, and another
the next day, and from this day forward, every thief and
deserter who leaves his duty and imperils his comrades'
lives shall die."
The culprits were then questioned as to who they
were. One replied that he was the slave of Farjalla-bill
Ali a headman in No. 1 company ; another that he was
the slave of a Banyan in Zanzibar, and the third that he
was the slave of an artizan at work in Unyanyembe.
Lots were cast, and he who chose the shortest paper
of three slips was the one to die first. The lot fell upon
the slave of Farjalla, who was then present. The rope
was heaved over a stout branch. Forty men at the
word of command lay hold of the rope and a noose was
cast round the prisoner's neck.
WE MAKE EXAMPLES OF THREE DESERTERS. 213
" Have you anything to say before the word ifcj iss?.
given ? " s ei>t -
He replied with a shake of the head. The signal was ^a^"
given, and the man was hoisted up. Before the last 8tation -
struggles were over, the Expedition had filed out of
camp leaving the rearguard and river column behind.
A rattan was substituted in place of our rope, the body
was secured to the tree, and within fifteen minutes the
camp was abandoned.
We made good progress on this day. A track ran
along the river which greatly assisted the caravan. In
passing through we searched and found only ten
bunches of miniature plantains. We formed camp an
hour's distance from the confluence of the Lenda and
Ituri.
Another noble tusker was bathing opposite the river,
and Captain Nelson, with a double-barrelled rifle, similar
to my own, myself, and Saat Tato the hunter, crossed over
and floated down within fifteen yards of the elephant.
We fired three bullets simultaneously into him, and in a
second had planted two more, and yet with all this lead
fired at vital parts the animal contrived to escape.
From this time we lost all confidence in these rifles.
We never bagged one head of game with the Expresses
during the entire Expedition. Captain Nelson sold his
rifle for a small supply of food to Kilonga-Longa some
time afterwards, and I parted with mine as a gift to
Antari, King of Ankori, nearly two years later. With
the No. 8 or No. 10 Keilly rifle I was always successful,
therefore those interested in such things may avail
themselves of our experience.
As the next day dawned and a grey light broke
through the umbrageous coping of the camp I despatched
a boy to call the head chief Kashid.
" Well, Rashid, old man, we shall have to execute
the other man presently. It will soon be time to pre-
pare for it. What do you say ? "
" Well, what can we do else than kill those who are
trying to kill us ? If we point to a pit filled at the
bottom with pointed pales and poisoned skewers, and
214 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. tell men to beware of it, surely we are not to blame if
Sept. 20. men S ] 1U ^ ^eir ears to words of warning and spring in.
Ug wT~ On their own heads let the guilt lie."
station. " But it is very hard after all. Rashid bin Omar, this
forest makes men's hearts like lead, and hunger has
driven their wits out of their heads ; nothing is thought
of but the empty belly and crying stomach. I have
heard that when mothers are driven by famine they will
sometimes eat their children. Why should we wonder
that the servant runs away from his master when he
cannot feed him ? "
" That is the truth as plain as sunshine. But if we
have to die let us all die together. There are plenty of
good men here who will give you their hearts whenever
you bid them do it. There are others slaves of
slaves who know nothing and care for nothing, and as
they would fly with what we need to make our own
lives sure, let them perish and rot. They all know that
you, a Christian, are undergoing all this to save the
sons of Islam who are in trouble near some great sea,
beyond here ; they profess Islam, and yet would leave
the Christian in the bush. Let them die."
" But supposing, Rashid, we could prevent this break-
up and near ruin by some other w T ay not quite so
severe as to hang them up until they are dead ; what
would you say ? "
" I would say, sir, that all ways are good, but, without
doubt, the best is that which will leave them living to
repent."
" Good, then, after my coffee the muster will be
sounded. Meanwhile, prepare a long rattan cable ;
double it over that stout branch yonder. Make a good
noose of a piece of that new sounding line. Get the
prisoner ready, put guards over him, then when you
hear the trumpet tell these words in the ears of the
other chiefs, ' Come to me, and ask his pardon, and I
will give it you.' I shall look to you, and ask if you
have anything to say ; that will be your signal. How
do you like it ? "
" Let it be as you say. The men will answer you."
AN EMOTIONAL SCENE. 215
In half-an-hour the muster signal sounded ; the com- iss?.
panies formed a square enclosing the prisoner. A long Sept>
rattan cable hung suspended with the fatal noose g wa w "
attached to a loop ; it trailed along the ground like an 8tation -
immense serpent. After a short address, a man ad-
vanced and placed the noose around the neck ; a com-
pany was told off to hoist the man upward.
" Now, my man, have you anything to say to us
before you join your brother who died yesterday ? "
The man remained silent, and scarcely seemed
conscious that I spoke. I turned round to the head
man. " Have you anything to say before I pass the
word ? "
Then Rashid nudged his brother chiefs, at which
they all rushed up, and threw themselves at my feet,
pleading forgiveness, blaming in harsh terms the thieves
and murderers, but vowing that their behaviour in
future would be better if mercy was extended for this
one time.
During this scene the Zanzibaris' faces were worth
observing. How the eyes dilated and the lips closed,
and their cheeks became pallid, as with the speed of an
electric flash the same emotion moved them !
" Enough, children ! take your man, his life is yours.
But see to it. There is only one law in future for him
who robs us of a rifle, and that is death by the cord."
Then such a manifestation of feeling occurred that I
was amazed real big tears rolled down many a face,
while every eye was suffused and enlarged with his
passionate emotions. Caps and turbans were tossed
into the air. Rifles were lifted, and every right arm
was up as they exclaimed " Until the white cap is
buried none shall leave him ! Death to him who leaves
Bula Matari ! Show the way to the Nyanza ! Lead on
now now we will follow ! "
Nowhere have I witnessed such affecting excitement
except in Spain - - perhaps when the Republicans
stormily roared their sentiments, after listening to some
glorious exhortations to stand true to the new faith in
Libertad, Igualdad, and Fraternidad !
216 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. The prisoner also wept, and after the noose was flung
Sept. 20. agid^ knelt down and vowed to die at my feet. We
g wa's W " shook hands and I said, "It is God's work, thank
station. Him."
Merrily the trumpet blared once more, and at once
rose every voice, " By the help of God ! By the help of
God ! " The detail for the day sprang to their posts,
received their heavy load for the day, and marched
away rejoicing as to a feast. Even the officers smiled
their approval. Never was there such a number of
warmed hearts in the forest of the Congo as on that
day.
The land and river columns reached the Lenda
within an hour, and about the same time. This was
apparently a deep river about a hundred yards wide.
On the west side of the confluence was a small village,
but its plantain groves had been long ago despoiled of
fruit. Soon after the ferriage was completed the men
were permitted to scour the country in search of food ;
some on the north bank, and others on the south bank,
but long before night they all returned, having been
unable to find a morsel of any kind of edible.
On the 22nd, while pursuing our way by river and
by land as usual, I reflected that only on the 18th I had
left fifty-six invalids under the care of an Arab ; yet
on observing the people at the muster, I noticed that
there were about fifty already incapacitated by debility.
The very stoutest and most prudent were pining under
such protracted and mean diet. To press on through
such wastes unpeopled by the ivory hunters appeared
simply impossible, but on arriving at Umeni w~e had the
good fortune to find sufficient for a full day's rations,
and hope again filled us.
The following day, one man, called " Abdallah the
humped," deserted. We on the river were troubled
with several rapids, and patches of broken water, and
in discharging cargo, and hauling canoes, and finally
we came in view of a fall of forty feet with lengths of
rapids above and below.
One would have thought that by this time the Ituri
TROUBLESOME EAP1DS. 217
would have become an insignificant stream, but when iss?.
we saw the volume of water precipitated over the third Sept - 23
large cataract, we had to acknowledge that it was still a j^v.
powerful river.
The 24th was passed by us in foraging, and cutting a
highway to above the rapids and disconnecting boat
sections for transport. The pioneers secured a fair
quantity of plantains, the three other companies
nothing. The obstructions to this cataract consisted of
reddish schistose rock.
On the next day we were clear of the third cataract
and halted at an old Arab encampment. During this
day no new supply of food was obtained.
The day following we reached another series of
rapids, and after a terrible day's work unloading and
reshipping several times, with the fatigues and anxiety
incurred during the mounting of the dangerous rapids,
we reached camp opposite Avatiko.
How useful the boat and canoes were to us may
be imagined from the fact that it required us to make
three round trips to carry 227 loads. Even then it
occupied all the healthy men until night. The people
were so reduced by hunger, that over a third could do
no more than crawl. I was personally reduced to two
bananas on this day from morning to night. But some
of our Zanzibaris had found nothing to subsist on for
two entire days, which was enough to sap the strength
of the best. A foraging party of No. 1 Company crossed
the river to Avatiko settlement, and found a small
supply of young fruit, but they captured a woman who
stated that she knew and could guide us to plantains as
large as her arms.
The 27th of September was a halt. I despatched
Lieutenant Stairs to explore ahead along the river, and
180 men across river to forage for food, with our
female captive as guide. The former returned to report
that, no village had been seen, and to detail an exciting
encounter he had had with elephants, from which it
appeared he had a narrow escape. The Zanzibaris
came back with sufficient plantains to distribute from
218 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887, sixty to eighty per man. If the people had followed
Sept. 2*. our pj an o f economising the food, we should have had
less suffering to record, but their appetites were usually
ungovernable. The quantity now distributed impartially,
ought to have served them for from six to eight days,
but several sat up all night to eat, trusting in God to
supply them with more on peremptory demand.
On the 30th the river and land parties met at lunch
time. This day the officers and myself enjoyed a feast.
Stairs had discovered a live antelope in a pit, and I
had discovered a mess of fresh fish in a native basket-
net at the mouth of a small creek. In the afternoon
we camped at a portion of the river bank which showed
signs of its being used as a landing near a ferry. Soon
after camping we were startled by three shots. These
indicated the presence of Manyuema, and presently
about a dozen fine-looking men stalked into the camp.
They were the followers of Kilonga-Longa, the rival of
Ugarrowwa in the career of devastation to which these
two leaders had committed themselves.
The Manyuema informed us that Kilonga-Longa's
settlement was but five days' journey, and that as the
country was uninhabited it would be necessary to
provide rations of plantains which could be procured
across river, and that still a month's journey lay between
us and the grass land. They advised us to stay at the
place two days to prepare the food, to which we were
very willing to agree, the discovery of some kind of
provisions being imperative.
During the first day's halt, the search for food was
unsuccessful, but on the second day at early dawn a
strong detachment left for the north bank, under
Lieutenant Stairs and Surgeon Parke. In the afternoon
the foragers returned with sufficient plantains to enable
us to serve out forty to each man. Some of the most
enterprising men had secured more, but extreme want
had rendered them somewhat unscrupulous, and they
had contrived to secrete a small reserve.
On the 3rd of October, soon after leaving our camp
in the morning, we entered into a pool-like formation,
SCARCITY OF FOOD. 219
surrounded by hills rising from 250 to 600 feet above
the river, and arriving at the end saw a crooked, ditch- o<>t - 3 -
like, and very turbulent stream. The scenery reminded
us of a miniature Congo canon, banked as it was with
lines of lofty hills. A presentiment warned us that we
were about to meet more serious obstacles than any we
had yet met. We progressed, however, upward about
three miles, but the difficulties of advance were so
numerous that we were unable to reach the caravan
camp.
On the 4th we proceeded about a mile and a half,
and crossed the Expedition to the north bank, as we
had been told that the Manyuema settlement of Ipoto
was situated on that side. The Manyuema had dis-
appeared, and three of our deserters had accompanied
them. Two men had also died of dysentery. We
experienced several narrow escapes ; a canoe was twice
submerged, the steel boat was nearly lost, and the
severe bumping she received destroyed the rate of our
chronometers, which hitherto had been regular. I
should have abandoned the river on this day, but the
wilderness, the horrible, lonely, uninhabited wilderness,
and the excessive physical prostration and weakness of
the people, forbade it. We hoped and hoped that we
should be able to arrive at some place where food and
rest could be obtained, which appeared improbable,
except at Kilonga-Longa's settlement.
The next day we arrived, at 10 A.M., after a push
through terribly wild water, at a sharp bend curving
eastward from N.E., distinguished by its similarity of
outline on a small scale to Nsona Mamba, of the Lower
Congo. Stepping on shore before we had gone far
within the bend, and standing on some lava-like rock,
I saw at a glance that this was the end of river
navigation by canoes. The hills rose up to a bolder
height, quite 600 feet, the stream was contracted to a
width of twenty -five yards, and about a hundred yards
above the point on which 1 stood, the Ihuru escaped,
wild and furious, from a gorge ; while the Ituri was seen
descending from a height in a series of cataracts, and,
220 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. both uniting at this point, and racing madly at the
highest pitch and velocity, bellowed their uproar loudly
amongst the embanking and sombre forest heights.
I sent messengers across the river to recall the
caravan which was under the leadership of Stairs, and
on their return recrossed the people to the south bank.
On the morning of the 6th of October our state and
numbers were 271 in number, including white and
black. Since then two had died of dysentery, one
from debility, four had deserted, and one man was
hanged. We had therefore 263 men left. Out of
this number fifty-two had been reduced to skeletons,
who first, attacked by ulcers, had been unable to
forage, and to whom through their want of econo-
mizing what rations had been distributed, had not
sufficient to maintain them during the days that
intervened of total want. These losses in men left
me 211 still able to march, and as among these there
were forty men non -carriers, and as I had 227 loads, it
followed that when I needed carriage, I had about
eighty loads more than could be carried. Captain
Nelson for the last two weeks had also suffered from a
dozen small ulcers, which had gradually increased in
virulence. On this day then, when the wild state of the
river quite prohibited further progress by it, he and
fifty-two men were utterly unfit and incapable of
travel.
It was a difficult problem that now faced us.
Captain Nelson was our comrade, whom to save we
were bound to exert our best force. To the fifty-two
black men we were equally bound by the most solemn
obligations ; and dark as was the prospect around us, we
were not so far reduced but that we entertained a lively
hope that we could save them. As the Manyuema had
reported that their settlement was only five days'
journey, and we had already travelled two days' march,
then probably the village or station was still three days
ahead of us. It was suggested by Captain Nelson that
if we despatched intelligent couriers ahead, they would
be enabled to reach Kilonga-Longa's settlement long
A GLOOMY CAMP. 221
before the column. As this suggestion admitted of ISST.
no contradiction, and as the head men were naturally
the most capable and intelligent, the chief of the head St cJTmp. on
men and five others were hastened off', and instructed at
once to proceed along the south bank of the river until
they discovered some landing place, whence they must
find means to cross the Ituri and find the settlement,
and obtain an immediate store of food.
Before starting officers and men demanded to know
from me whether I believed the story of Arabs being
ahead. I replied that I believed most thoroughly, but
that it was possible that the Manyuema had under-
estimated the distance to gratify or encourage us and
abate our anxiety.
After informing the unfortunate cripples of our in-
tention to proceed forward until we could find food that
we might not all be lost, and send relief as quickly as
it could be obtained, I consigned the fifty-two men,
eighty-one loads, and ten canoes in charge of Captain
Nelson bade him be of good cheer, and hoisting our
loads and boat on our shoulders, we marched away.
No more gloomy spot could have been selected for a
camp than that sandy terrace, encompassed by rocks
and hemmed in narrowly by those dark woods, which
rose from the river's edge to the height of 600 feet,
and pent in the never-ceasing uproar created by the
writhing and tortured stream and the twin cataracts,
that ever rivalled each other's thunder. The imagina-
tion shudders at the hapless position of those crippled
men, who were doomed to remain inactive, to listen every
moment to the awful sound of that irreconcilable fury of
wrathful waters, and the monotonous and continuous
roar of plunging rivers, to watch the leaping waves,
coiling and twisting into changing columns as they ever
wrestled for mastery with each other, and were dashed
in white fragments of foam far apart by the ceaseless
force of driven currents ; to gaze at the dark, relentless
woods spreading upward and around, standing per-
petually fixed in dull green, mourning over past ages,
past times, and past generations ; then think of the
222 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. night, with its palpable blackness, the dead black
6 ' shadows of the wooded hills, that eternal sound of
Mamba. f ur y> that ceaseless boom of the cataracts, the indefinite
forms born of nervousness and fearfulness, that misery
engendered by loneliness and creeping sense of abandon-
ment ; then will be understood something of the true
position of these poor men.
And what of us trudging up these wooded slopes to
gain the crest of the forest uplands, to tramp on and on,
whither we knew not, for how long a time we dared not
think, seeking for food with the double responsibility
weighing us down for these trustful, brave fellows
with us, and for those, no less brave and trustful,
whom we had left behind at the bottom of the horrible
canon !
As I looked at the poor men struggling wearily on-
ward it appeared to me as though a few hours only were
needed to ensure our fate. One day, perhaps two days,
and then life would ebb away. How their eyes searched
the wild woods for the red berries of the phrynia, and
the tartish, crimson, and oblong fruit of the amoma !
How they rushed for the flat beans of the forest, and
gloated over their treasures of fungi ! In short, nothing
was rejected in this severe distress to which we were
reduced except leaves and wood. We passed several
abandoned clearings ; and some men chopped down pieces
of banana stalk, then searched for wild herbs to make
potage, the bastard jack fruit, or the fenessi, and other
huge fruit became dear objects of interest as we straggled
on.
" Return we could not, nor
Continue where we were ; to shift our place
Was to exchange one misery with another.
And every day that came, came to decay
A day's work in UP."
On the 7th of October we began at 6.30 A.M. to
commence that funereal pace through the trackless region
on the crest of the forest uplands. We picked up fungi,
and the matonga wild fruit, as we travelled, and after
seven hours' march we rested for the day. At 11 A.M.
we had halted for lunch at the usual hour. Each officer
" RANDY AND THE GUINEA FOWL. 223
had economised his rations of bananas. Two were iss?.
the utmost that I could spare for myself. My comrades Oct - 7 -
were also as rigidly strict and close in their diet, and a
cup of sugarless tea closed the repast. We were sitting
conversing about our prospects, discussing the proba-
bilities of our couriers reaching some settlement on this
day, or the next, and the time that it would take them
to return, and they desired to know whether in my
previous African experiences I had encountered anything
so grievous as this.
" No ; not quite so bad as this," I replied. " We have
suffered ; but not to such an extremity. Those nine
days on the way into Ituru were wretched. On our
flight from Bumbire we certainly suffered much hunger,
and also while floating down the Congo to trace its
course our condition was much to be pitied ; but we had
a little of something, and at least large hope. The age
of miracles is past, it is said, but why should they be ?
Moses drew water from the rock at Horeb for the
thirsty Israelites. Of water we have enough and to
spare. Elijah was fed by ravens at the brook Cherith,
but there is not a raven in all this forest. Christ was
ministered unto by angels. I wonder if any one will
minister unto us ? "
Just then there was a sound as of a large bird
whirring through the air. Little Randy, my fox-terrier,
lifted up a foot and gazed inquiringly ; we turned our
heads to see, and that second the bird dropped beneath
the jaws of Randy, who snapped at the prize and held it
fast, in a vice as of iron.
" There, boys," I said, " truly the gods are gracious.
The age of miracles is not past," and my comrades were
seen gazing in delighted surprise at the bird, which was
a fine fat guinea fowl. It was not long before the
guinea fowl was divided, and Randy, its captor, had his
lawful share, and the little doggie seemed to know that
he had grown in esteem with all men, and we enjoyed
our prize each with his own feelings.
On the next day, in order to relieve the boat-
bearers of their hard work, Mr. Jephson was requested
224
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887.
Oct. 7.
Forest.
to connect the sections together, and two hours after
starting on the march came opposite an inhabited island.
The advance scouts seized a canoe and bore straight on
to the island, to snatch in the same unruly manner as
Orlando, meat for the hungry.
" What would you, unruly men ? "
" We would have meat ! Two hundred stagger in
these woods and reel with faintness."
The natives did not stand for further question, but
BANDY SEIZES THE GUINEA FOWL.
vanished kindly, and left their treasures of food. We
received as our share two pounds of Indian corn and
half-a-pound of beans. Altogether about twenty-five
pounds of corn were discovered, which was distributed
among the people.
In the afternoon I received a note from Mr. Jephson,
who was behind with the boat : " For God's sake, if you
can get any food at the village send us some."
We despatched answer to Jephson to hunt up the
wounded elephant that I had shot, and which had taken
WE SEND MEN TO SEARCH FOR FOOD. 225
refuge on an island near him, and in reply to his anxious
letter, a small handful of corn. Oct - 9 -
On the 9th of October 100 men volunteered to go Fore8t
across river and explore inland from the north bank
with a resolute intention not to return without food of
some kind. I went up river with the boat's crew, and
Stairs down river to strike inland by a little track in
the hope that it might lead to some village ; those who
were too dispirited to go far wandered southward
through the woods to search for wild fruit and forest
beans. This last article was about four times the size
of a large garden bean, encased in a brown leathery rind.
At first we had contented ourselves with merely
skinning it and boiling it, but this produced sickness of
the stomach. An old woman captured on the island
was seen to prepare a dish of these beans by skinning
them and afterwards cleaning the inner covering, and
finally scraping them as we would nutmegs. Out of
this floury substance she made some patties for her
captor, who shouted in ecstasies that they were good.
Whereupon everybody bestirred themselves to collect
the beans, which were fairly plentiful. Tempted by a
" lady finger " cake of this article that was brought to
me, I ventured to try it, and found it sufficiently filling,
and about as palatable as a mess of acorns. Indeed, the
flavour strongly reminded me of the acorn. The fungi
were of several varieties, some pure and perfect mush-
rooms, others were of a less harmless kind ; but surely
the gods protected the miserable human beings con-
demned to live on such things. Grubs were collected, also
slugs from the trees, caterpillars, and white ants these
served for meat. The mabengu (nux vomica) furnished
the dessert, with ftnessi or a species of bastard jack
fruit.
The following day some of the foragers from across
the river returned bringing nothing. 1 They had dis-
covered such emptiness on the north bank as we had
found on the south bank ; but " Inshallah ! " they said,
" we shall find food either to-morrow or the next
day."
VOL. i. p
226 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. In the morning I had eaten my last grain of Indian
Oct. 10. corn? an( j mv j as t p 0r tion of everything solid that was
obtainable, and at noon the horrid pains of the
stomach had to be satisfied with something. Some
potato leaves brought me by Wadi Khamis, a headman ,
were bruised fine and cooked. They were not bad,
still the stomach ached from utter depletion. Then a
Zanzibari, with his face aglow with honest pride, brought
me a dozen fruit of the size and colour of prize pear,
which emitted a most pleasant fruity odour. He
warranted them to be lovely, and declared that the men
enjoyed them, but the finest had been picked out for
myself and officers. He had also brought a pattie made
out of the wood-bean flour which had a rich custardy
look about it. With many thanks I accepted this novel
repast, and I felt a grateful sense of fulness. In an
hour, however, a nausea attacked me, and I was forced
to seek my bed. The temples presently felt as if con-
stricted by an iron band, the eyes blinked strangely,
and a magnifying glass did not enable me to read
the figures of Norie's Epitome. My servant, with the
rashness of youth, had lunched bravely on what I had
shared with him of the sweetly-smelling pear-like fruit,
and consequently suffered more severely. Had he been
in a little cockle boat on a mad channel sea he could
scarcely have presented a more flabby and disordered
aspect than had been caused by the forest pears.
Just at sunset the foragers of No. 1 Company, after
an absence of thirty-six hours, appeared from the
N. bank, bringing sufficient plantains to save the
Europeans from despair and starvation ; but the men
received only two plantains each, equal to four ounces
of solid stuff, to put into stomachs that would have
required eight pounds to satisfy.
The officers Stairs, Jephson, and Parke, had been
amusing themselves the entire afternoon in drawing
fanciful menus, where such things figured as :
Filet de bceuf en Chartreuse.
Petites bouchees aux huitres de Ostende.
Becassines roties a la Londres.
FANCIFUL MENUS OF THE OFFICERS. 227
Another had shown his Anglo-Saxon proclivities for iss?.
solids such as : Oot - 10 -
Forest.
Ham and eggs and plenty of them,
Koast beef and potatoes unlimited,
A weighty plum pudding.
There were two of the foragers missing, but we could
not wait for them. We moved from this starvation
camp to one higher up, a distance of eleven miles.
A man of No. 3 Company dropped his box of
ammunition into a deep affluent and lost it. Kajeli
stole a box of Winchester ammunition and absconded.
Salim stole a case containing Emin Pasha's new boots
and two pairs of mine, and deserted. Wadi Adam
vanished with Surgeon Parke's entire kit. Swadi, of
No. 1 Company, left his box on the road, and departed
himself to parts unknown. Bull-necked Uchungu
followed suit with a box of Remington cartridges.
On the 12th of October we marched four-and-a-half
miles, E. by S. The boat and crew were far below,
struggling in rapids. We wished now to cross the
river to try our fortune on the N. bank. We searched
for a canoe, and saw one on the other side, but the
river was 400 yards wide, and the current was too
strong against the best swimmers in their present state
of debility.
Some scouts presently discovered a canoe fastened to
an island only forty yards from the south bank, which
was situate a little above our halting place. Three men
volunteered, among whom was Wadi Asman, of the
Pioneers, a grave man, faithful, and of much experience
in many African lands. Twenty dollars reward was to
be the prize of success. Asman lacked the audacity
of Uledi, the coxswain of the " advance," as well as his
bold high spirit, but was a most prudent and valuable
man.
These three men chose a small rapid for their venture,
that they might obtain a footing now and then on the
rocks. At dusk two of them returned to grieve us with
the news that Asman had tried to swim with his
228 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. Winchester on his back, and had been swept by the
Oct. 12. s t ron g current into a whirlpool, and was drowned.
We were unfortunate in every respect ; our chiefs had
not yet returned, we were fearing for their fate, strong
men deserted. Our rifles were rapidly decreasing in
number. Our ammunition was being stolen. Feruzi,
the next best man to Uledi as a sailor, soldier, carrier,
good man and true, was dying from a wound inflicted
on the head by a savage's knife.
The following day was also a halt. We were about
to cross the river, and we were anxious for our six
chiefs, one of whom was Kashid bin Omar, the " father of
the people," as he was called. Equipped with only their
rifles, accoutrements and sufficient ammunition, such
men ought to have travelled in the week that had
elapsed since our departure from Nelson's camp over a
hundred miles. If they, during that distance, could not
discover the Manyuema settlement, what chance had
we, burdened with loads, with a caravan of hungry and
despairing men, who for a week had fed on nothing but
two plantains, berries, wild fruit, and fungi ? Our men
had begun to suffer dearly during this protracted
starvation. Three had died the day before.
Towards evening Jephson appeared with the boat,
and brought a supply of Indian corn, which sufficed to
give twelve cupfuls to each white. It was a reprieve
from death for the Europeans.
The next day, the 15th, having blazed trees around
the camp, and drawn broad arrows with charcoal for
the guidance of the head men when they should return,
the Expedition crossed over to the north bank and camped
on the upper side of a range of hills. Feruzi Ali. died of
his wound soon after.
Our men were in such a desperately weak state, that I
had not the heart to command the boat to be disconnected
for transport, as had a world's treasure been spread out
before them, they could not have exhibited greater
power than they were willing to give at a word. I
stated the case fairly to them thus :
" You see, my men, our condition in brief is this.
ADVICE FROM THE FAITHFUL ULEDL 229
We started from Yambuya 389 in number and took IBB?.
237 loads with us. We had 80 extra carriers to provide Oct - 15>
for those who by the way might become weak and Fores V
ailing. We left 56 men at Ugarrowwa's Settlement,
and 52 with Captain Nelson. We should have 271 left,
but instead of that number we have only 200 to-day,
including the chiefs who are absent. Seventy-one have
either died, been killed, or deserted. But there are only
150 of you fit to carry anything, and therefore we cannot
carry this boat any further. I say, let us sink her here
by the riverside, and let us press on to get food for
ourselves and those with Captain Nelson, who are
wondering what has become of us, before we all die in
these woods. You are the carriers of the boat not we,
Do you speak, what shall be done unto her ? "
Many suggestions were made by the officers and men,
but Uledi of 'Through the Dark Continent,' always
Uledi the ever faithful Uledi, spoke straight to the
purpose. " Sir, my advice is this. You go on with the
caravan and search for the Manyuema, and I and my
crew will work at these rapids, and pole, row, or drag
her on as we can. After I have gone two days up, if I
do not see signs of the Manyuema I will send men after
you to keep touch with you. We cannot lose you, for a
blind man could follow such a track as the caravan
makes."
This suggestion was agreed by all to be the best, and
it was arranged that our rule of conduct should be as
Uledi sketched out.
We separated at 10 A.M., and in a short time I had
my first experience among the loftier hills of the
Aruwimi valley. I led the caravan northward through
the trackless forest, sheering a little to the north east to
gain a spur, and using animal tracks when they served
us. Progress was very slow, the undergrowth was
dense ; berries of the phrynium and fruit of the Amomum
fenessi and nux vomica, besides the large wood beans
and fungi of all sorts, were numerous, and each man
gathered a plentiful harvest. Unaccustomed to hills for
years, our hearts palpitated violently as we breasted the
230 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. steep-wooded slopes, and cut and slashed at the ob-
structing creepers, bush and plants.
Ah, it was a sad night, unutterably sad, to see so many
men struggling on blindly through that endless forest,
following one white man who was bound whither none
knew, whom most believed did not know himself. They
were in a veritable hell of hunger already ! What
nameless horrors awaited them further on none could
conjecture ? But what matter, death comes to every
man soon or late ! Therefore we pushed on and on,
broke through the bush, trampled down the plants,
wound along the crest of spurs zigzagging from
north-east to north-west, and descending to a bowl-
like valley by a clear stream, lunched on our corn and
berries.
During our mid-day halt, one Umari having seen
some magnificent and ripe fenessi at the top of a tree
thirty feet high, essayed to climb it, but on gaining that
height, a branch or his strength yielded and he tumbled
headlong upon the heads of two other men who were
waiting to seize the fruit. Strange to say, none of
them were very seriously injured. Umari was a little
lame in the hip and one of those upon whom he fell
complained of a pain in the chest.
At 3.30 after a terrible struggle through a suffocating
wilderness of arums, amoma, and bush, we came to a
dark amphitheatral glen and at the bottom found a
camp just deserted by the natives, and in such hot haste
that they had thought it best not to burden themselves
with their treasures. Surely some divinity provided for
us always in the most stressful hours. Two bushels of
Indian corn, and a bushel of beans awaited us in this
camp.
My poor donkey from Zanzibar showed symptoms
of surrender. Arums and amoma every day since
June 28th were no fit food for a dainty Zanzibar ass,
therefore to end his misery I shot him. The meat was
as carefully shared as though it were the finest venison,
for a wild and famished mob threatened to defy dis-
cipline. When the meat was fairly served a free fight
MY DONKEY IS SHOT FOE FOOD. 231
took place over the skin, the bones were taken up and 1887.
crushed, the hoofs were boiled for hours, there was Oct - 15 -
nothing left of my faithful animal but the spilled blood
and hair ; a pack of hyaenas could not have made a more
thorough disposal of it. That constituent of the human
being which marks him as superior to all others of the
animal creation was so deadened by hunger that our men
had become merely carnivorous bipeds, inclined to be as
ferocious as any beast of prey.
On the 16th we crossed through four deep gorges
one after another, through wonderful growths of phrynia.
The trees frequently bore fenessi nearly ripe, one foot
long and eight inches in diameter. Some of this fruit
was equal to pineapple, it was certainly wholesome.
Even the rotten fruit was not rejected. When the
fenessi were absent, the wood-bean tree flourished and
kindly sprinkled the ground with its fruit. Nature
seemed to confess that the wanderers had borne enough
of pain and grief. The deepest solitudes showed
increasing tenderness for the weary and long-suffering.
The phrynia gave us their brightest red berries, the
amoma furnished us with the finest and ripest scarlet fruit,
the fenessi were in a state of perfection, the wood-beans
were larger and fatter, the streams of the wood glens
were clear and cold ; no enemy was in sight, nothing was
to .be feared but hunger, and nature did its best with
her unknown treasures, shaded us with her fragrant and
loving shades, and whispered to us unspeakable things
sweetly and tenderly.
During the mid-day halt the men discussed our pro-
spects. They said, with solemn shaking of their heads,
" Know you that such and such a man is dead ? that the
other is lost ! another will probably fall this afternoon !
the rest will perish to-morrow ! " The trumpet sum-
moned all to their feet, to march on, and strive, and
press forward to the goal.
Half-an-hour later the pioneers broke through a
growth of amoma, and stepped on a road. And lo !
on every tree we saw the peculiar " blaze " of the
Manyuema, a discovery that was transmitted by every
232 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. voice from the head to the rear of the column, and was
received with jubilant cheers.
" Which way, sir ? " asked the delighted pioneers.
" Eight turn of course," I replied, feeling far more
glad than any, and fuller of longings for the settlement
that was to end this terrible period, and shorten the
misery of Nelson and his dark followers.
" Please God," they said, " to-morrow or the next day
we shall have food," which meant that after suffering
unappeasable hunger for 336 hours, they could patiently
wait if it pleased God another thirty-six or sixty hours
more.
We were all frightfully thin, the whites not so much
reduced as our coloured men. We thought of the
future and abounded with hope, though deep depression
followed any inspection of the people. We regretted
that our followers did not have greater faith in us.
Hunger followed by despair killed many. Many freely
expressed their thoughts and declared to one another
plainly that we knew not whither we were marching. And
they were not far wrong, for who knew what a day
might bring forth in unexplored depths of woods. But
as they said, it was their fate to follow us, and therefore
they followed fate. They had fared badly and had
suffered greatly. It is hard to walk at all when weak-
ness sets in through emptiness ; it is still worse to do
so when burdened with sixty pounds weight. Over
fifty were yet in fair condition ; 150 were skeletons
covered with ashy grey skins, jaded and worn out, with
every sign of wretchedness printed deep in their eyes,
in their bodies and movements. These could hardly
do more than creep on and moan, and shed tears and
sigh. My only dog " Randy," alas ! how feeble he had
become ! Meat he had not tasted except with me of
the ass's meat for weeks. Parched corn and beans
were not fit for a terrier, and fenessi and mabengu, and
such other acid fruit he disdained, and so he declined,
until he became as gaunt as the pariah of a Moslem.
Stairs had never failed me. Jephson every now and
then had been fortunate in discoveries of grain treasures,
WE STRIKE THE TRACK OF THE MANYUEMA. 233
and always showed an indomitable front, and Parke was iss7.
ever striving, patient, cheerful and gentle. Deep, deep Oct - 16<
down to undiscovered depths our life in the forest had Forest '
enabled me to penetrate human nature with all its
endurance and virtues.
Along the track of the Manyuema it was easy to travel.
Sometimes we came to a maze of roads ; but once the
general direction was found, there was no difficulty to
point to the right one. It appeared to be well travelled,
and it was clearer every mile that we were approaching
a populous settlement. As recent tracks became more
numerous, the bush seemed more broken into, with many
a halt and many wayward strayings. Here and there
trees had been lopped of their branches. Cording vines
lay frequently on the track ; pads for native carriers
had often been dropped in haste. Most of the morning
was expended in crossing a score of lazy, oozy rillets,
which caused large breadths of slime-covered swamp.
Wasps attacked the column at one crossing, and stung a
man into high fever, and being in such an emaciated
condition there w^as little chance of his recovery. After a
march of seven miles south-eastwardly we halted on the
afternoon of the 17th.
The night was ushered by a tempest which threatened
to uproot the forest and bear it to the distant west,
accompanied by floods of rain, and a severe cold
temperature. Nevertheless, fear of famishing drove us
to begin the march at an early hour on the following
day. In about an hour and-a-half we stood on the
confines of a large clearing, but the fog was so dense
that we could discern nothing further than 200 feet in
front. Eesting awhile to debate upon our course, we
heard a sonorous voice singing in a language none of
us knew, and a lusty hail and an argument with what
appeared to be some humour. As this was not a land
where aborigines would dare to be so light-hearted and
frivolous, this singing we believed could proceed from
no other people than those who knew they had nothing
to fear. I fired a Winchester rapidly in the air. The
response by heavy -loaded muskets revealed that these
234
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. were the Manyuema whom we had been so long seeking,
Oct. 17. an( j scarce ly had their echoes ceased their reverberations
est ' than the caravan relieved its joy by long continued
hurrahs.
We descended the slope of the clearing to a little
valley, and from all sides of an opposite slope were seen
lines of men and women issuing to welcome us with
friendly hails. We looked to the right and left and
saw thriving fields, Indian corn, rice, sweet potatoes and
beans. The well-known sounds of Arab greeting
KILONGA LONGA'S STATION.
and hospitable tenders of friendship burst upon our
ears ; and our hands were soon clasped by lusty huge
fellows, who seemed to enjoy life in the wilds as much
as they could have enjoyed it in their own lands.
These came principally from Manyuema, though their
no less stout slaves, armed with percussion muskets and
carbine, echoed heartily their superiors' sentiments and
professions
We were conducted up the sloping clearing through
fields of luxuriant grain, by troops of men and
THANKSGIVING. 235
youngsters who were irrepressibly frolicsome in their 1887.
joy at the new arrivals and dawning promise of a
holiday. On arrival at the village we were invited to Ipot
take our seats in deep shady verandahs where we soon
had to answer to hosts of questions and congratulations.
As the caravan filed past us to its allotted quarters
which men were appointed to show, numerous were the
praises to God, uttered by them for our marvellous
escapes from the terrible wilderness that stretched from
their settlement of Ipoto to the Basopo Cataract, a
distance of 197 miles, praises in which in our inmost
hearts each one of our sorely tried caravan most heartily
joined.
236 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
CHAPTER X.
WITH THE MANYUEMA AT IPOTO.
The ivory hunters at Ipoto Their mode of proceeding The Manyuema
headmen and their raids Eemedy for preventing wholesale devasta-
tions Crusade preached by Cardinal Lavigerie Our Zanzibar
chiefs Anxiety respecting Captain Nelson and his followers Our
men sell their weapons for food Theft of Eifles Their return
demanded Uledi turns up with news of the missing chiefs Con-
tract drawn up with the Manyuema headmen for the relief of
Captain Nelson Jephson's report on his journey Eeports of Captain
Nelson and Surgeon Parke The process of blood brotherhood
between myself and Ismaili We leave Ipoto.
1887. THIS community of ivory hunters established at Ipoto
had arrived, five months previous to our coming, from
the banks of the Lualaba, from a point situated be-
tween the exits of the Lowwa and the Leopold into
the great river. The journey had occupied them seven-
and-a-half months, and they had seen neither grass nor
ppen country, nor even heard of them during their
wanderings. They had halted a month at Kinnena on
the Lindi, and had built a station-house for their Chief
Kilonga-Longa, who, when he had joined them with the
main body, sent on about 200 guns and 200 slave
carriers to strike further in a north-easterly direction,
to discover some other prosperous settlement far in
advance of him, whence they could sally out in bands to
destroy, burn and enslave natives in exchange for
ivory. Through continual fighting, and the carelessness
which the unbalanced mind is so apt to fall into after
one or more happy successes, they had decreased in
number within seven-and-a-half months into a force of
about ninety guns. On reaching the Lenda River they
had heard of the settlements of Ugarrowwa, and sheered
THE IVORY HUNTERS AT IPO TO. 237
off the limits of his raiding circle to obtain a centre of
their own, and, crossing the Lenda, they succeeded in Oct - 18>
reaching the south bank of the Ituri, about south of Ipoto>
their present settlement at Ipoto.
As the natives would not assist them over the river
to the north bank, they cut down a big tree and with
axe and fire hollowed it into a sizeable canoe which
conveyed them across to the north bank to Ipoto.
Since that date they had launched out on one of the
most sanguinary and destructive careers to which even
Tippu-Tib's or Tagamoyo's career offer but poor com-
parison. Towards the Lenda and Ihuru Rivers, they
had levelled into black ashes every settlement, their
rage for destruction had even been vented on the
plaintain groves, every canoe on the rivers had been
split into pieces, every island had been searched, and
into the darkest recesses, whither a slight track could be
traced, they had penetrated with only one dominating
passion, which was to kill as many of the men and
capture as many of the women and children as craft and
cruelty would enable them. However far northward or
eastward these people had reached, one said nine days'
march, another fifteen days ; or wherever they had gone
they had done precisely as we had seen between the
Lenda River and Ipoto, and reduced the forest land into
a howling wilderness, and throughout all the immense
area had left scarcely a hut standing.
What these destroyers had left of groves and planta-
tions of plaintain and bananas, manioc, and corn-fields,
the elephant, chimpanzee, and monkeys had trampled
and crushed into decaying and putrid muck, and in
their places had sprung up, with the swiftness of mush-
rooms, whole hosts of large-leafed plants native to the
soil, briars, calamus and bush, which the natives had in
times past suppressed with their knives, axes and hoes.
With each season the bush grew more robust and taller,
and a few seasons only were wanted to cover all traces
of former habitation and labour.
From Ipoto to the Lenda the distance by our track is
105 miles. Assume that this is the distance eastward to
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. which their ravages have extended, and northward and
southward, and we have something like 44,000 square
miles. We know what Ugarrowwa has done from the
preceding pages, what he was still doing with all the
vigour of his mind, and we know what the Arabs in the
Stanley Falls are doing on the Lumami and what sort
of devil's work Mumi Muhala, and Bwana Mohamed
are perpetrating around Lake Ozo, the source of the
Lulu, and, once we know where their centres are
located, we may with a pair of compasses draw great
circles round each, and park off areas of 40,000 and
50,000 square miles into which half-a-dozen resolute
men, aided by their hundreds of bandits, have divided
about three-fourths of the Great Upper Congo Forest
for the sole purpose of murder, and becoming heirs to a
few hundred tusks of ivory.
At the date of our arrival at Ipoto, there were the
Manyuema headmen, physically fine stalwart fellows,
named Ismailia, Khamisi, and Sangarameni, who were
responsible to Kilonga-Longa, their chief, for the followers
and operations entrusted to their charge. At alternate
periods each set out from Ipoto to his own special
sub-district. Thus, to Ismailia, all roads from Ipoto to
Ibwiri and east to the Ituri were given as his special
charge. Khamisi's area was along the line of the
Ihuru, then east to Ibwiri, to Sangarameni all the land
east and west between the Ibina and Ihuru affluents of
the Ituri. Altogether there were 150 fighting men, but
only about 90 were armed with guns. Kilonga-Longa
was still at Kinnena, and was not expected for three
months yet.
The fighting men under the three leaders consisted of
Bakusu, Balegga, and Basongora, youths who were
trained by the Manyuema as raiders in the forest region,
in the same manner as in 1876, Manyuema youths had
been trained by Arabs and Waswahili of the east coast.
We see in this extraordinary increase in number of
raiders in the Upper Congo basin the fruits of the Arab
policy of killing off the adult aborigines and preserving
the children. The girls are distributed among the Arab,
THE MANY (JEM A HEADMEN AND THEIR RAIDS. 239
Swahili and Manyuema harems, the boys are trained
to carry arms and are exercised in the use of them. Oct - 18>
When they are grown tall and strong enough they are Ipoto>
rewarded with wives from the female servants of the
harem, and then are admitted partners in these bloody
ventures. So many parts of the profits are due to the
great proprietor, such as Tippu-Tib, or Said bin Abed, a
less number becomes the due of the headmen, and the
remainder becomes the property of the bandits. At
other times large ivories, over 35 Ibs. each, become the
property of the proprietor, all over 20 Ibs. to 35 Ibs.
belong to the headmen, scraps, pieces and young ivory
are permitted to be kept by the lucky finders. Hence
every member of the caravan is inspired to do his best.
The caravan is well armed and well manned by the pro-
prietor, who stays at home on the Congo or Lualaba river
indulging in rice and pilaf and the excesses of his harem,
the headmen, inspired by greed and cupidity, become
ferocious and stern, the bandits fling themselves upon a
settlement without mercy to obtain the largest share of
loot, of children, flocks, poultry, and ivory.
All this would be clearly beyond their power if they
possessed no gunpowder. Not a mile beyond their
settlements would the Arabs and their followers dare
venture. It is more than likely that if gunpowder was
prohibited entry into Africa there would be a general
and quick migration to the sea of all Arabs from inner
Africa, as the native Chiefs would be immeasurably
stronger than any combination of Arabs armed with
spears. What possible chance could Tippu-Tib, Abed bin
Salim, Ugarrowwa and Kilonga-Longa have against the
Basongora and Bakusu ? How could the Arabs of Ujiji
resist the Wajiji and Warundi, or how could those of
Unyamyembe live among the bowmen and spearmen of
Unyamwezi ?
There is only one remedy for these wholesale devas-
tations of African aborigines, and that is the solemn
combination of England, Germany, France, Portugal,
South and East Africa, and Congo State against the
introduction of gunpowder into any part of the
240 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. Continent except for the use of their own agents,
18> soldiers, and employes, or seizing upon every tusk of
ipoto. j vor y brought out, as there is not a single piece nowa-
days which has been gained lawfully. Every tusk,
piece and scrap in the possession of an Arab trader has
been steeped and dyed in blood. Every pound weight
has cost the life of a man, woman or child, for every five
pounds a hut has been burned, for every two tusks a
whole village has been destroyed, every twenty tusks
have been obtained at the price of a district with all its
people, villages and plantations. It is simply incredible
that, because ivory is required for ornaments or billiard
games, the rich heart of Africa should be laid waste at
this late year of the nineteenth century, signalized as it
has been by so much advance, that populations, tribes
and nations should be utterly destroyed. Whom after
all does this bloody seizure of ivory enrich ? Only a
few dozens of half-castes, Arab and Negro, who, if due
justice were dealt to them, should be made to sweat out
the remainder of their piratical lives in the severest
penal servitude.
On arriving in civilization after these terrible dis-
coveries, I was told of a crusade that had been preached
by Cardinal Lavigerie, and of a rising desire in Europe to
effect by force of arms in the old crusader style and to
attack the Arabs and their followers in their strongholds
in Central Africa. It is just such a scheme as might have
been expected from men who applauded Gordon when
he set out with a white wand and six followers to rescue
all the garrisons of the Soudan, a task which 14,000 of
his countrymen, under one of the most skilful English
generals, would have found impossible at that date.
We pride ourselves upon being practical and sensible
men, and yet every now and then let some enthusiast
whether Gladstone, Gordon, Lavigerie or another
speak, and a wave of Quixotism spreads over many
lands. The last thing I heard in connection with this
mad project is that a band of 100 Swedes, who have
subscribed 25 each, are about to sail to some part of
the East Coast of Africa, and proceed to Tanganika to
ANXIETY RESPECTING NELSON AND THE SICK CAMP. 241
commence ostensibly the extirpation of the Arab slave- issi.
trader, but in reality to commit suicide. Oct - 18 -
However, these matters are not the object of this Ipoto *
chapter. We are about to have a more intimate acquaint-
ance with the morals of the Manyuema, and to under-
stand them better than we ever expected we should.
They had not heard a word or a whisper of our Head-
men whom we had despatched as couriers to obtain relief
for Nelson's party, and, as it was scarcely possible that
a starving caravan would accomplish the distance be-
tween Nelson's Camp and Ipoto before six active and
intelligent men, we began to fear that among the lost
men we should have to number our Zanzibari chiefs.
Their track was clear as far as the crossing-place of the
14th and 15th December. It was most probable that
the witless men would continue up the river until they
were overpowered by the savages of some unknown
village. Our minds were never free from anxiety
respecting Capt. Nelson and his followers. Thirteen
days had already elapsed since our parting. During this
period their position was not worse than ours had been.
The forest was around them as it was around us. They
were not loaded down as we were. The most active
men could search about for food, or they could employ
their canoes to ferry themselves over to the scene of the
forage of the 3rd December, one day's journey by land,
or an hour by water. Berries and fungi abounded on
the crest of the hills above their camp as in other parts.
Yet we were anxious, and one of my first duties was to
try and engage a relief party to take food to Nelson's
camp. I was promised that it should be arranged next
day.
For ourselves we received three goats and twelve
baskets of Indian corn, which, when distributed, gave
six ears of corn per man. It furnished us with two good
meals, and many must have felt revived and refreshed,
as I did.
On the first day's halt at Ipoto we suffered consider-
able lassitude. Nature either furnishes a stomach and
no food, or else furnishes a feast and robs us of all
VOL. I. Q
242 IN DARKEST AFftlCA.
IBS?, appetite. On the day before, and on this, we had fed
sumptuously on rice and pilaf and goat stew, but now
we began to suffer from many illnesses. The masticators
had forgotten their office, and the digestive organs
disdained the dainties, and affected to be deranged.
Seriously, it was the natural result of over-eating ; corn
mush, grits, parched corn, beans and meat are solids
requiring gastric juice, which, after being famished for
so many days, was not in sufficient supply for the eager
demand made for it.
The Manyuema had about 300 or 400 acres under
corn, five acres under rice, and as many under beans.
Sugar-cane was also grown largely. They possessed
about 100 goats all stolen from the natives. In their
store-huts they had immense supplies of Indian corn
drawn from some village near the Ihuru, and as yet
unshucked. Their banana plantations were well stocked
with fruit. Indeed the condition of every one in the
settlement was prime.
It is but right to acknowledge that we were received
on the first day with ostentatious kindness, but on the
third day something of a strangeness sprang up between
us. Their cordiality probably rose from a belief that
our loads contained some desirable articles, but unfortu-
nately the first-class beads that would have sufficed for
the purchase of all their stock of corn were lost by the
capsizing of a canoe near Panga Falls, and the gold
braided Arab burnooses were stolen below Ugarrowwa,
by deserters. Disappointed at not receiving the expected
quantity of fine cloth or fine beads, they proceeded
systematically to tempt our men to sell everything they
possessed, shirts, caps, daoles, waist cloths, knives, belts,
to which, being their personal property, we could make no
objection. But the lucky owners of such articles having
been seen by others less fortunate, hugely enjoying
varieties of succulent food, were the means of inspiring
the latter to envy and finally to theft. The unthrifty
and reckless men sold their ammunition, accoutrements,
bill hooks, ramrods, and finally their Remington Rifles.
Thus, after escaping the terrible dangers oi starvation
OUR MEN SELL THEIR WEAPONS FOR FOOD. 243
and such injuries as the many savage tribes could inflict 1887.
on us, we were in near peril of becoming slaves to the Oct< 18 '
Arab slaves. Ipoto -
Despite entreaties for corn, we could obtain no more
than two ears per man per day. I promised to pay
triple price for everything received, on the arrival of
the rear column, but with these people a present
possession is better than a prospective one. They
professed to doubt that we had cloth, and to believe
that we had travelled all this distance to fight them.
We represented on the other hand that all we needed
were six ears of corn per day during nine days' rest.
Three rifles disappeared. The Headmen denied all
knowledge of them. We were compelled to reflect that,
if it were true, they suspected we entertained sinister
intentions towards them, that surely the safest and
craftiest policy would be to purchase our arms secretly,
and disarm us altogether, when they could enforce what
terms they pleased on us.
On the 21st six more rifles were sold. At this rate
the Expedition would be wrecked in a short time,
for a body of men without arms in the heart of the
great forest, with a host of men to the eastward and a
large body to the westward depending upon them, were
lost beyond hope of salvation. Both advance and
retreat were equally cut off, and no resource would be
left but absolute submission to the chief who chose to
assert himself to be our master or Death. Therefore I
proposed for my part to struggle strongly against such
a fate, and either to provoke it instantly, or ward it off
by prompt action.
A muster was made, the five men without arms were
sentenced to twenty -five lashes each and to be tied up.
After a considerable fume and fuss had been exhibited,
a man stepped up, as one was about to undergo punish-
ment and begged permission to speak.
" This man is innocent, sir." " I have his rifle in my
hut, I seized it last night from Juma (one of the cooks),
son of Forkali, as he brought it to a Manyuema to sell.
It may be Juma stole it from this man. I know that
244 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. all these men have pleaded that their rifles have been
Oct. 21. S t } en by others, while they slept. It may be true as
ipoto. ^ n ^ig case Meantime Juma had flown, but was
found later on hiding in the corn fields. He confessed
that he had stolen two, and had taken them to the
informer to be disposed of for corn, or a goat, but it was
solely at the instigation of the informer. It may have
been true, for scarcely one of them but was quite
capable of such a course, but the story was lame, and
unreasonable in this case and was rejected. Another
now came up and recognized Juma as the thief who had
abstracted his rifle and having proved his statement
and confession having been made the prisoner was
sentenced to immediate execution, which was accord-
ingly carried out by hanging.
It now being proved beyond a doubt that the
Manyuema were purchasing our rifles at the rate of a
few ears of corn per gun, I sent for the head men, and
make a formal demand for their instant restitution,
otherwise they would be responsible for the conse-
quences. They were inclined to be wrathy at first.
They drove the Zanzibaris from the village out into the
clearing, and there was every prospect of a fight, or as
was very probable, that the Expedition was about to be
wrecked. Our men, being so utterly demoralized, and
utterly broken in spirit from what they had undergone,
were not to be relied on, and as they were ready to sell
themselves for corn there was little chance of our
winning a victory in case of a struggle. It requires
fulness of stomach to be brave. At the same time
death was sure to conclude us in any event, for to
remain quiescent under such circumstances tended to
produce an ultimate appeal to arms. With those
eleven rifles, 3000 rounds of ammunition had been sold.
No option presented itself to me than to be firm in my
demand for the rifles ; it was reiterated, under a threat
that I would proceed to take other means and as a
proof of it they had but to look at the body hanging
from a tree, for if we proceeded to such extremities as
putting to death one of our own men, they certainly
THEFT OF OUR RIFLES. 245
ought to know that we should feel ourselves perfectly iss?.
prepared to take vengeance on those who had really Oct> 21 -
caused his death by keeping open doors to receive stolen Ipoto *
property.
After an hour's storming in their village they brought
five rifles to me, and to my astonishment pointed the
sellers of them. Had it not been impolitic in the first
place to drive things to the extreme, I should have
declined receiving one of them back before all had been
returned, and could I have been assured of the aid of
fifty men I should have declared for a fight ; but just at
this juncture Uledi, the faithful coxswain of the
Advance, strode into camp, bringing news that the boat
was safe at the landing-place of Ipoto and of his dis-
covery of the six missing chiefs in a starving and
bewildered state four miles from the settlement. This
produced a revulsion of feelings. Gratitude for the
discovery of my lost men, the sight of Uledi the
knowledge that after all, despite the perverseness of
human nature, I had some faithful fellows, left me for
the time speechless.
Then the tale was told to Uledi, and he undertook the
business of eradicating the hostile feelings of the Man-
yuema, and pleaded with me to let bygones be bygones
on the score that the dark days were ended, and happy
days he was sure were in store for us.
For surely, dear master," he said, " after the longest
night comes day, and why not sunshine after darkness
with us ? I think of how many long nights and dark days
we pulled through in the old times when we pierced
Africa together, and now let your heart be at peace.
Please God we shall forget our troubles before long."
The culprits were ordered to be bound until morning.
Uledi, with his bold frank way, sailed straight into the
affections of the Manyuema headmen. Presents of corn
were brought to me, apologies were made and accepted.
The corn was distributed among the people, and we
ended this troublesome day, which had brought us all to
the verge of dissolution, in much greater content than
could have been hoped from its ominous commencement.
246 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. Our long wandering chiefs who w T ere sent as heralds
Oct. 2.3. of our approach to Ipoto arrived on Sunday the 23rd.
They surely had made but a fruitless quest, and they
found us old residents of the place they had been des-
patched to seek. Haggard, wan and feeble from seven-
teen days feeding on what the uninhabited wilderness
afforded, they were also greatly abashed at their failure.
They had reached the Ibina River which flows from the
S.E., and struck it two days above the confluence with
the Ituri ; they had then followed the tributary down to
the junction, had found a canoe and rowed across to the
right bank, where they had nearly perished from hunger.
Fortunately Uledi had discovered them in time, had
informed them of the direction of Ipoto, and they had
crawled as they best could to our camp.
Before night, Sangarameni, the third head man, ap-
peared from a raid with fifteen fine ivories. He said
he had penetrated a twenty days' journey, and from a
high hill had viewed an open country all grass land.
Out of a supply I obtained on this day I was able to
give two ears of corn per man, and to store a couple of
baskets for Nelson's party. But events were not pro-
gressing smoothly, I could obtain no favourable answer
to my entreaty for a relief party. One of our men had
been speared to death by the Manyuema on a charge of
stealing corn from the fields. One had been hanged,
twenty had been flogged for stealing ammunition,
another had received 200 cuts from the Manyuema for
attempting to steal. If only the men could have
reasoned sensibly during these days, how quickly
matters could have been settled otherwise !
I had spoken and warned them with all earnestness
to " endure, and cheer up," and that there were two
ways of settling all this, but that I was afraid of them
only, for they preferred the refuse of the Manyuema to
our wages and work. The Manyuema were proving to
them what they might expect of them ; and with us
the worst days were over ; all we had to do was to
march beyond the utmost reach of the Manyuema raids,
when we should all become as robust as they. Bah !
MANYUEMA HEADMEN AND THE RELIEF OF NELSON. 247
I might as well have addressed my appeals to the trees iss?.
of the forest as unto wretches so sodden with despair. Oct - 24 -
The Manyuema had promised me three several times Ipot0 '
by this day to send eighty men as a relief party to
Nelson's camp, but the arrival of Sangarameni, and
misunderstandings, and other trifles,^ had disturbed the
arrangements.
On the 24th firing was heard on the other side of the
river, and, under the plea that it indicated the arrival of
Kilonga-Longa, the relief caravan was again prevented
from setting out.
The next day, those who had fired, arrived in camp,
and proved to be the Manyuema knaves whom we had
seen on the 2nd of October. Out of fifteen men they
had lost one man from an arrow wound. They had
wandered for twenty-four days to find the track, but
having no other loads than provisions these had lasted
with economy for fifteen days, but for the last nine days
they had subsisted on mushrooms and wild fruit.
On this evening I succeeded in drawing a contract, and
getting the three headmen to agree to the following :
" To send thirty men to the relief of Captain Nelson,
with 400 ears of corn for his party.
" To provide Captain Nelson and Surgeon Parke, and
all sick men unable to work in the fields, with pro-
visions, until our return from Lake Albert.
" The service of a guide from Ipoto to Ibwiri, for
which they were to be paid one bale and a half of cloth
on the arrival of the rear column."
It was drawn up in Arabic by Kashid, and in English
by myself, and witnessed by three men.
For some fancy articles of personal property I suc-
ceeded in purchasing for Mr. Jephson and Capt. Nelson
250 ears of Indian corn, and for 250 pistol cartridges I
bought another quantity, and for an ivory-framed mirror
from a dressing-case purchased two baskets full ; for
three, bottles of ottar of roses obtained three fowls, so
that I had 1000 ears of corn for the relieving and
relieved parties.
On the 26th Mr. Mounteney Jephson, forty Zanzibaris,
248 /JV DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. and thirty Manyuema slaves started on their journey to
Oct. 26. N e i son ' s camp. I cannot do better than introduce
Ipoto- Mr. Jephson's report on his journey.
" Arab Settlement at Ipoto,
DEARS iR, " November t
"I left at midday on October 26th, and arrived at the river and
crossed over with 30 Manyuema and 40 Zanzibaris under my charge the
same afternoon and camped on landing. The next morning we started
off early and reached the camp, where we had crossed the river, when we
were wandering about in a starving condition in search of the Arabs,
by midday the signs and arrow heads we had marked on the trees to
show the chiefs we had crossed were still fresh. I reached another of
our camps that night. The next day we did nearly three of our former
marches. The camp where Feruzi Ali had got his death wound, and
where we had spent three such miserable days of hunger and anxiety,
looked very dismal as we passed through it. During the day we passed
the skeletons of three of our men who had fallen down and died from
sheer starvation, they were grim reminders of the misery through which
we had so lately gone.
" On the morning of the 29th I started off as soon as it was day-
light, determining to reach Nelson that day and decide the question
as to his being yet alive. Accompanied by one man only, I soon found
myself far ahead of my followers. As I neared Nelson's camp a
feverish anxiety to know his fate possessed me, and I pushed on through
streams and creeks, by banks and bogs, over which our starving people
had slowly toiled with the boat sections. All were passed by quickly
to-day, and again the skeletons in the road testified to the trials through
which we had passed. As 1 came down the hill into Nelson's camp, not
a sound was heard but the groans of two dying men in a hut close by,
the whole place had a deserted and woe- begone look. I came quietly
round the tent and found Nelson sitting there ; we clasped hands, and
then, poor fellow ! he turned away and sobbed, and muttered something
about being very weak.
" Nelson was greatly changed in appearance, being worn and haggard
looking, with deep lines about his eyes and mouth. He told me
his anxiety had been intense, as day after day passed and no relief
came ; he had at last made up his mind that something had happened
to us, and that we had been compelled to abandon him. He had
lived chiefly upon fruits and fungus which his two boys had brought
in from day to day. Of the fifty-two men you left with him, only
live remained, of whom two were in a dying state. All the rest had
either deserted him or were dead.
" He has himself given you an account of his losses Irom death
and desertion. I gave him the food you sent him, which I had
carefully watched on the way, and he had one of the chickens and
some porridge cooked at once, it was the first nourishing food he
had tasted for many days. After I had been there a couple of hours
my people came in and all crowded round the tent to offer him their
congratulations.
" You remember Nelson's feet had been very bad for some days before
we left him, he had hardly left the tent the whole time he had been here.
At one time he had bad ten ulcers on one foot-, but he had now recovered
from them in a great measure and said he thought he would be able to
march slowly. On the 30th we began the return march. I gave out
REPORTS OF JEPHSON, NELSON, AND PARKE. 249
most of the loads to the Manyuema and Zanzibaris, but was obliged to JQS?
leave thirteen boxes of ammunition and seven other loads, these 1 buried, Qct 26
and Parke will be able to fetch them later on.
" Nelson did the marches better than I expected, though he was much 1 P to -
knocked up at the end of each day. On the return march we crossed
the river lower down and made our way up the right bank and
struck your old road a day's march from the Arab camp. Here again we
passed more skeletons, at one place there were three within 200 yards
of each other.
" On the fifth day, that is November 3rd, we reached the Arab camp,
and Nelson's relief was accomplished. He has already picked up
wonderfully in spite of the marching, but he cannot get sleep at night
and is still in a nervous and highly strung state ; the rest in the Arab
camp will, I trust, set him up again. It is certain that in his state of
health he could not have followed us in our wanderings in search of
food, he must have fallen by the way.
" I am &c., &c.
" (Signed) A. J. MOUNTKNEY JEPHSON."
The following are the reports of Captain Nelson and
Surgeon Parke.
" Arab Village, Ipoto,
"!)E\R SIR " ^ l November, 1887.
" Mr. Jephson arrived at my camp on the 29th October with the
men for the loads and with the food you sent for me. Many thanks for
the food, it was badly needed. He will tell you what state he found me
in and of the few men still alive.
" You left me on the 6th October last ; on the morning of the 9th I got
Tip a canoe and sent Umari and thirteen of the best men I could find
(they were all very bad) over the river to look for food. On the 8th
Assani (No. 1 Company) came to me and said that he had returned from
the column sick. Same day Uledi's brother came into camp, told me he
had lost the road while looking for bananas, near the camp, where we
met the Manyuema. On the 10th I found that Juma, one of Stairs'
chiefs, had cleared in the night with ten men, and stolen a canoe and gone
down river. On the 1 i th I counted the men and could only find seven-
teen (I had fifty-two the first day) ; the rest had pone away either after
the column or down river. On the 14th one man died. Umari returned
with very few bananas, about enough for two days ; however, they were
very welcome, as I had nothing but herbs and fungi to eat up to this
time. On the 15th another man died, and I found that Saadi (No. I.)
with some other men had come into camp in the night and stolen the
canoe (Umari had re-crossed the river in) and gone down river. On the
17th Dmari went away with twenty- one men to look for food; 19th, man
died ; 22nd, two men died ; 23rd, man died ; 29th, two men died ; Jeph-
son arrived ; 30th, one man died ; we left camp on way here. Umari had
not returned ; he, however, if alive, will come on here, I feel sure, but
how many men with him I cannot tell, perhaps five or six may reach
here with him. With the exception of the few bananas I got from Umari
I lived entirely on herbs, fungi, and a few mabengu. I had ten ulcers on
my left leg and foot and so was unable to look for food myself and was
kept alive entirely by my two boys and little Baruk, one of my company,
and Abdalla, a man Stairs left with me. I was very weak when Jephson
arrived. Now, however, I feel a little better. We arrived at the village
on the 3rd November, the chief Ismail brought me the day I came a very
250 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
small quantity of coarse meal and two small dried fish, about enough for
Oct. 26. ne m eal.
I oto " Yesterday, no food having come for two days, we sent for it, and
after a good deal of trouble Ismail sent us a little meal. At present I
am living on my clothes ; we get hardly anything from the Chief. To-
day Dr. Parke and I went to the Chief, with Hamis Pari as interpreter,
and talked to him about food. He told us that no arrangement had been
made by you for my food, and that he was feeding the Doctor and me
entirely from his own generosity, and he refused to feed our boys, three
in number (fewer we cannot possibly do with), as you never told him to
do so.
" I have the honour to be,
"&c., &c."
"K. H. NELSON."
" Arab Camp, Ipoto,
" MY DEAR MR. STANLEY, " November 6th, 1887.
" C.iptain Nelson and Mr. Jephson arrived here on the 3rd inst.
a few of the Zanzibaris and Manyuema men getting in with their loids
the previous day. Of all those men left at Nelson's camp, only five have
arrived here, the remaining live ones were away on a foraging tour with
Umari, when the relief party arrived. It is very likely that some of them
may find their way here ; it so, I shall get Ismaili to allow them to work
for their food. Nelson stageere 1 into camp greatly changed in appear-
ance, a complete wreck after the march, his features shrunken and
pinched, and a frame reduced to half its former size. I have done the
best I could for him medically, but good nourishing food is what he
requires to restore him to his health : and I regret to say that my expe-
rience here and the conversation which we had to-day with Ismaili goes
to show that we shall have to exist on scanty fare. Since you left, I have
had some flour and corn from the chiefs, but this was generally after
sending for it several times By a lucky accident I got a goat, most of
which I distributed amongst the sick men here, for I am informed by
Ismaili, through H. Pari, that only those who work in the field get food,
and there are some here who certainly cannot do so ; therefore they are
trusting to the generosity of the other men, who get five heads of corn
each day they work. Both Nelson and myself have much trouble in
getting food from Ismaili for ourselves, and he has refused to fe3d our
boys, who are absolutely necessary to draw water, cook, &c., &c., although
I have reduced mine to one.
" Nelson and myself went and saw him to day (Hamis Pari, interpreter),
and Ismaili stated that you had told the chiefs that a big Mzungu was to
come (Nelson), and he would make his own arrangements about food 4
and that I was here living on his (Ismaili s) generosity, as no arrange-
ments had been made for me. I reminded him of the conversation you
had with him in your tent the evening you called me down and gave me
your gold watch, and I said that you had told me that you had made a
written arrangement with the chiefs that both Nelson and myself should
be provisioned. We both told him that we did not want goats and fowls,
but simply what he can give us. Not having seen any agreement, I could
not argue further, but asked to see the document, so that we might
convince him; this he said he could not do, as Hamis, the Chief, had it,
and he was away, and would not return for two months. He however
sent us up some corn shortly afterwards. This is a very unhappy state
of affairs for us who shall have to remain here for so long a time.
Nelson has sold much of his clothes, and out of my scanty supply (my
BLOOD BROTHERHOOD WITH ISMAILL 253
bag having been lost on the march), T have been obliged to make a ] 887
further sale so as to provide ourselves with sufficient food. Oct. 16.
" We shall get along here as best we can, and sacrifice much to keep
on friendly terms with the Arabs, as it is of such essential importance. T
sincerely hope you will have every success in attaining the object of the
Expedition, and that we shall all have an opportunity of meeting soon
and congratulating Emin Pasha on his relief.
" With best wishes, &c.,
(Signed) " T. H. PARKE,
" A.M.D.
" Arab Village, Ipoto,
" DEAR SIR, " 10 ^ November, 1887.
" I am sorry to have to tell you that several attempts have been
made to rob the hut, and last night unfortunately they managed to get a
box of ammunition out of Parke's tent while we were having dinner ;
also one attempt to burn the hut, which happily 1 frustrated, owing to my
not being able to sleep well. We have spoken to the Chief Ismail about
the thieving : he says it is done by Zanzibaris and not by his people ; but
if there were no sale for the cartridges they would not be stolen. It is of
course most unfortunate. Since Jephson left, the erormous quantity of
forty small heads of Indian corn has been given to us by Ismail ; this is
of course quite absurd; as we cannot live on it, we get herbs, with
which we supplement our scanty fare.
" Uledi returned this afternoon and goes on to-morrow, and by him 1
send this letter.
" With kindest regards to you, Sir, Stairs and Jephson.
" I have the honour to be, &c., &c.,
(Signed) " E. H. NELSON.
P.S. Just as I finished this letter the Chief sent us a little meal,
which evidently was done so that Uledi who was waiting for the letter
could tell you that we were getting plenty (! !) of food.
"H. M. STANLEY, Esq..
" Commanding E. P. E. Expedition."
On the evening of the 26th Ismaili entered my hut,
and declared that he had become so attached to me that
he would dearly love to go through the process of blood-
brotherhood with me. As I was about to entrust
Captain Nelson and Surgeon Parke and about thirty
sick men to the charge of himself and brother chiefs,
I readily consented, though it was somewhat infra dig.
to make brotherhood with a slave, but as he was
powerful in that bloody gang of bandits, I pocketed my
dignity and underwent the ceremony. I then selected
a five-guinea rug, silk handkerchiefs, a couple of yards of
crimson broadcloth, and a few other costly trifles.
Finally I made another written agreement for guides to
accompany me to the distance of fifteen camps, which
254 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. he said was the limit of his territory, and good treat-
j oto ' ment of my officers, and handed to him a gold watch
and chain, value 49 in London, as pledge of this
agreement, in presence of Surgeon Parke.
The next day after leaving Surgeon Parke to attend
to his friend Nelson and twenty-nine men, we left Ipoto
with our reduced force to strive once more with the
hunger of the wilderness.
CHAPTER XL
THROUGH THE FOREST TO MAZAMBONl's PEAK.
In the country of the Balosse Their houses and clearings Natives
of Bukiri The first village of dwarfs Our rate of progress
increased The road from Mambungu's Halts at East and West
Indekaru A little storm between " Three O'clock " and Khamis
We reach Ibwiri Khamis and the "vile Zanzibaris" The Ibwiri
clearing Plentiful provisions The state of my men; and what
they had recently gone through Khamis and party explore tlie
neighbourhood And return with a flock of goats Khamis
captures Boryo, but is released Jephson returns from the relief
of Captain Nelson Departure of Khamis and the Manyuema
Memorandum of charges against Messrs. Kilonga Longa & Co. of
Ipoto Suicide of Simba Sali's reflections on the same Lieutenant
Stairs reconnoitres Muster and re-organisation at Ibwiri Im-
proved condition of the men Boryo's village Balesse customs
East Indenduru We reach the outskirts of the forest Mount
Pisgah The village of lyugu Heaven's light at last ! The beautiful
grass-land We drop across an ancient crone Indesura and its
products Juma's capture The Ituri river again We emerge upon
a rolling plain And forage in some villages The mode of hut
construction The district of the Babusesse Our Mbiri captives
Natives attack the camp The course of the Ituri The natives of
Abunguma Our fare since leaving Ibwiri Mazamboni's Peak The
east Ituri A mass of plantations Demonstration by the natives
Our camp on the crest of Nzera Kum "Be strong and of a good
courage" Friendly intercourse with the native? We are compelled
to disperse them Peace arranged Aims of the Bandussuma.
WE marched for two hours to Yumbu, and in four and ISST.
a quarter hours on the following day to Busindi.
We were now in the country of the Balesse. The archi- Yumbu -
tecture was peculiar. Its peculiarity consisted in a long
street flanked by a long low wooden building, or rather
planked building, on either side, 200, 300, or 400 feet
long. At first sight one of these villages appeared like
a long gable-roofed structure sawn in exact half along
the ridge of the roof, and as if each half house had been
removed backward for a distance of 20 or 30 feet, and
256
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
Busindi.
1887. then along the inner sides been boarded up, and pierced
29< with low doors, to obtain entrance into independent
apartments. The light wood of the Rubiacae affords good
material for this kind of house. A sizeable tree, 1 foot
18 inches, or 2 feet in diameter, is felled, and the log is
cut into short pieces from four to six feet in length ;
the pieces are easily split by hard w r edges, and with
their small neat adzes they contrive to shape the plank
smooth, tolerably even, and square. They are generally
an* inch or an inch and a quarter thick. For what is
called the ceiling or inner boarding, the boards are
thinner and narrower. When a sufficient number of
SHIELDS OF THE BALESSE.
boards and planks are ready, the inner ceiling is lashed
to the uprights, frequently in as neat a fashion as a
carpenter's apprentice might do it with saw, nails and
hammer ; on the outer side of the uprights are lashed
the thicker planks, or broad slabs, the hollow between
the inner and outer frame is then stuffed with the
phrynia, or banana leaves. The wall facing the street
may be 9 feet high, the back wall facing the forest or
clearing is 4 or 4^ feet high, the width of the house
varies from 7 to 10 feet. Altogether it is a comfortable
and snug mode of building, rather dangerous in case of
fire, but very defensible, with trifling labour.
THE COUNTRY OF THE BALESSE. 257
Another peculiarity of the Balesse is the condition of 1887.
their clearings, and some of these are very extensive,
quite a mile and a half in diameter, and the whole
strewn with the relics, debris, and timber of the primeval
forest. Indeed I cannot compare a Balesse clearing to
anything better than a mighty abattis surrounding the
principal village, and over this abattis the traveller has
to find his way. As one steps out of the shadow of the
forest, the path is at first, may be, along the trunk of a
great tree for 100 feet, it then turns at right angles
along a great branch a few feet ; he takes a few paces
on the soil, then finds himself in front of a massive
prostrate tree-stem 3 feet in diameter or so; he climbs
over that, and presently finds himself facing the out-
spreading limbs of another giant, amongst which he
must creep, and twist, and crawl to get footing on
a branch, then from the branch to the trunk, he takes
a half turn to the right, walks along the tree from which,
increasing in thickness, he must soon climb on top of
another that has fallen across and atop of it, when after
taking a half-turn to the left, he must follow, ascend-
ing it until he is 20 feet above the ground. When
he has got among the branches at this dizzy height,
he needs judgment, and to be proof against nervous-
ness. After tender, delicate balancing, he places his
foot on a branch at last descends cautiously along
the steep slope until he is 6 feet from the ground
from which he must jump on to another tapering
branch, and follow that to another height of 20 feet>
then along the monster tree, then down to the ground ;
and so on for hours, the hot, burning sun, and the close,
steamy atmosphere of the clearing forcing the perspira-
tion in streams from his body. I have narrowly escaped
death three times during these frightful gymnastic
exercises. One man died where he fell. Several men were
frightfully bruised. Yet it is not so dangerous with the ^
naked feet, but with boots in the early morning, before "
the dew is dried, or after a rain, or when the advance-
guard has smeared the timber with a greasy clay, I
have had six falls in an hour. The village stands in the
VOL. i. R
258 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
IBS?: centre. We have often congratulated ourselves on coming
Jd ;. to a clearing at the near approach to camping- time, but it
has frequently occupied us one hour and a half to reach
the village. It is a most curious sight to see a caravan
laden with heavy burdens walking over this wreck of a
forest, and timbered clearing. Streams, swamps, water-
courses, ditches are often twenty to twenty-five feet
below a tapering slippery tree, which crosses them
bridge-like. Some men are falling, some are tottering,
one or two have already fallen, some are twenty feet
above the ground, others are on the ground creeping
under logs. Many are wandering among a maze of
branches, thirty or more may be standing on one delicate
and straight shaft, a few may be posted like sentries on
a branch, perplexed which way to move. All this,
however, is made much harder, and more dangerous,
when, from a hundred points, the deadly arrows are
flying from concealed natives, which, thank Heaven,
were not common. We have been too cautious for that
kind of work to happen often, though we have seldom
been able to leave one of these awful clearings without
having some man's foot skewered, or some one lamed.
On the 29th we marched to Bukiri or Myyulus, a
distance of nine miles in six hours.
A few natives having been tormented and persecuted
to submission to the Manyuema, greeted us with cries
of " Bodo ! Bodo ! Ulenda ! Ulenda ! " ; greetings which
they accompanied with a flinging motion of the hand,
as though they jerked " Away ! away ! "
The chief was styled Mwani. They wore much
polished ironwork, rings, bells, and anklets, and appeared
to be partial to many leglets made of calamus fibre, and
armlets of the same material, after the manner of
Karagwe and Uhha. They cultivate maize, beans,
plantains, and bananas, tobacco, sweet potatoes, yams,
. brinjalls, melons, gourds. Their goats are fine, and of
good size. Fowls are plentiful, but fresh eggs are rare.
Among some of these villages there is generally a
dome hut of ample size, after the manner of Unyoro,
with double porches.
THE FIRST VILLAGE OF DWARFS. 261
The following day we halted, during which the Man- iss?.
yuema guides took particular care to show our people Oct - 30 -
that they should have no doubt of their contempt for BusiQdi>
them. They would not allow them to trade with the
natives for fear some desirable article would be lost to
themselves, they also vociferated at them loudly if they
were seen proceeding to the clearing to cut plantains.
As I told them, they did not advance in their favour in
the least by abandoning the whites, and turning a deaf
ear to our adjurations to be manly and faithful. A
word, or even a defiant look, was visited with a sharp
cut on the naked body with a rattan from slave boys of
the six Manyuema guides with us. What awful oaths of
vengeance were uttered for all these indignities they
suffered I
On the 3 1st we came across the first village of Dwarfs,
and, during the day, across several empty settlements
belonging to them. We marched nine miles in five and
a quarter hours, and camped in a dwarfs village in the
woods.
Stealing continued steadily. On examining the
pouches, there was one cartridge out of three pouches
The cartridges were lost, of course ! Hilallah, a boy of
sixteen, deserted back to Ipoto with my cartridge pouch,
and thirty cartridges in it. A man who carried my
satchel ran away with seventy-five Winchester car-
tridges.
The next day we entered the extensive clearing and
large settlement of Mambungu's or Nebasse.
Khamis, the chief of the guides, left Ipoto on
the 31st, and arrived at this place with seven men,
according to agreement with Ismaili, my Manyuema
brother.
The track which we followed has enabled us to
increase our rate of progress per hour. Along the river
bank, by dint of continued work, and devoting seven,
eight; nine hours sometimes ten hours we could
travel from 3 to 7 miles. We were now enabled to
make H to 15, and even 2 miles per hour; but the
pace was still retarded by roots, stumps, climbers,
262 7^ DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. llianes, convolvuli, skewers, and a multitude of
NOV. i. s t reamSj anc [ green-scummed sinks. We could rarely
' proceed a clear hundred yards without being ordered
to halt by the pioneers.
Each day towards evening the clouds gathered, the
thunder reverberated with awful sounds through the
echoing forest ; lightning darted hither and thither,
daily severing some tree-top, or splitting a mighty
patriarch from crown to base, or blasting some stately
and kingly tree ; and the rain fell with a drowning
plenty which chilled and depressed us greatly in our
Kor blooded and anaemic state. But during the march,
evidence was gracious ; the sun shone, and streamed
in million beams of soft light through the woods, which
brightened our feelings, and caused the aisles and
corridors of the woods to be of Divine beauty, converted
the graceful thin tree-shafts into marbly-grey pillars,
and the dew and rain-drops into sparkling brilliants ;
cheered the invisible birds to pour out, with spirit, their
varied repertory of songs ; inspired parrot flocks to vent
gleeful screams and whistlings ; roused hosts of
monkeys to exert their wildest antics ; while now and
then some deep, bass roar in far-away recesses indicated
a family of soko or chimpanzees enjoying some savage
sport.
The road from Mambungu's, eastward, was full of tor-
ments, fears, and anxieties. Never were such a series of
clearings as those around Mambungu, and the neighbour-
ing settlement of Njalis. The trees were of the largest
size, and timber enough had been cut to build a navy ;
and these lay, in all imaginable confusion, tree upon tree,
log above log, branches rising in hills above hills ; and
amongst all this wild ruin of woods grew in profusion
upon profusion bananas, plantains, vines, parasites ;
ivy-like plants, palms, calamus, convolvuli, etc., through
which the poor column had to burrow, struggle, and
sweat, while creeping, crawling, and climbing, in,
through, and over obstacles and entanglements that
baffle description.
On the 4th November we were 13J miles from
MORNING IS BREAKING. 263
Mambungu's in the settlement of Ndugubisha, having i87.
passed, in the interval, through five deserted forest Nov - 4 -
villages of pigmies. On this day I came near smiling N b ( | 8 u h g a n "
for I fancied I observed the dawn of happier days fore-
told by Uledi. Each member of the caravan received
one ear of corn, and 15 plantains as rations.
Fifteen plantains and one ear of corn make a royal
ration compared to two ears of corn, or a handful of
berries, or a dozen fungus. It was not calculated, how-
ever, to make men too cheerful, though our people were
naturally light-hearted and gay.
" But never mind, my boys," I said, as I doled the
spare diet to the hungry creatures ; " the morning is
breaking ; a week more, and then you shall see the end
of your troubles."
Verbal reply was not given to me ; only a wan smile
lightened the famine-sharpened features. Our officers
had borne these privations with the spirit ascribed by
Csesar to Antony, and as well as though they were to
the manner born. They fed on the flat wood beans of the
orest, on the acid wild fruit and strange fungus, with the
niling content of Sybarites at a feast. Yet one of them
id 1,000 for this poor privilege, and came near being
jo ought too dainty for rough African life. They had
QAVgn a living example to our dark followers, many of
Q Jiom had probably been encouraged to strive for
^istence by the bright, hopeful looks our officers wore
oQnder our many unhappy afflictions.
1 On the following day we crossed the watershed
between the Ihuru and Ituri rivers, and we now
plunged into cool streams flowing to leftward, or towards
the Ihuru. Hills rose to the right and left in wooded
cones and ridgy mounts, and after a march of nine and
three-quarter miles, we halted for the night at West
Indekaru, at the base of a hill whose top rose 600 fee
above the village. Another short march brought us *f
a village perched half-way up a tall mount, which m a
be designated as East Indekaru, and by aneroid we wor
4,097 feet above the ocean. From this village iy
enjoyed a first view of our surroundings. Instead s.
264 7^ DARKEST AFRICA.
crawling like mighty bipeds in the twilight, 30 fathoms
NOV. 5. | 3e i ow t} ie level of the white light of the day, compelled
iru ' to recognize our littleness, by comparison with the giant
columns and tall pillar-like shafts that rose by millions
around us, we now stood on the crest of a cleared mount,
to look upon the leafy world below us. One almost
felt as if walking over the rolling plain of leafage was
possible, so compact and unbroken was the expanse,
extending to a lovely pale blueness as the eyesight
followed it to the, furthest limits of distinctness away,
far away to an unknown distance the forest tops spread
round about a variegated green of plushy texture, broad
red patches of tree flowering, and rich russety circles of
leaves, not unfrequent. How one envied the smooth,
easy flight of the kites and white-collared eagles, sailing
gracefully without let or hindrance through the calm
atmosphere ! Ah ! that we had the wings of kites, that
we might fly and be at rest from these incorrigibly
wicked Manyuema ! Whose wish was that ? Indeed, I
think we all of us shared it, more or less.
On the 7th, while we halted on the mount, the
Manyuema monopolizing the village, and our men in the
bush, unworthy to be near their nobility, there was a
little storm between Saat Tato (Three o'clock), the
hunter, and Khamis, the chief of the Manyuema guides.
It threatened, from the sound of words, to explode hurt-
fully at one time. Khamis slapped him in the face.
Both were tall men, but Saat Tato was two inches taller,
a good soldier, who had seen service in Madagascar and
with Sultan Barghash as a sergeant, but who, from his
habits of getting drunk by the third hour of each day,
was nicknamed " Three o'clock," and dismissed. He was
an excellent man, faithful, strong, obedient, and an
unerring shot. Given the benefits of twenty-five pounds
5>f food, Saat Tato, at a hint, would have smilingly taken
^old of Khamis, and snapped his vertebrse across his
sviee with the ease that he would have broken a spear
thiff. I observed Saat Tato closely, for it must be
banembered that it had become fully impressed on my
nd that my men were quite too broken-spirited. Saat
SAAT TATO AND KHAMIS. 265
Tato looked at him a second severely ; then, lifting his
forefinger, said to Khamis, " It is well, but I should like Nov - 7 -
to see you repeat that blow a little time hence, after I ]
have a little food. in me, and filled this stomach of mine.
Strike me again, do ; I can bear it."
Advancing, and touching Khamis on the shoulder, I
said, " Khamis, do not do that again. I do not allow
even my officers to strike my men like that."
The ill-humour was increasing, and, little as the
Manyuema imagined, they were assisting me to restore
the spirit of the Zanzibaris by their cruelty. There
were signs that the Christians would prevail after all.
The mutual affection expressed between the Moslem co-
religionists at the altar of which our men were ready to
sacrifice our lives and liberties and their own freedom,
had been cooled by the cruelty, perverseness, and
niggardliness of the Manyuema. All we had to do was
to watch it, bear patiently, and be ready.
To our great comfort Khamis confessed that West
Indekaru was the utmost limit of his master Ismaili's
territory.
We, however, were not to part from him until we
reached Ibwiri.
We marched eleven miles on the 8th of November
through a much more open forest, and we could see further
into the interior. The road was better, so much so that
our rate of marching increased to two miles per hour.
The gritty and loamy soil had absorbed the rain, and
walking became pleasant. The llianes were not so
riotously abundant, only a strong creeper now and then
lequiring severance. At several places there were
granite outcroppings of a colossal size, which were a
novelty and added a kind of romantic and picturesque
interest to the woods, darkly suggestive of gitanos,
bandits, or pigmies.
A march of nine and a half miles on the 9th of
November took us to a Pigmies' camp. Until noon a
mist had hung over the land. Towards the latter
part of the tramp we passed through several lately
deserted villages of the dwarfs, and across eight streams.
266 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. Khamis, the guide, and his followers, and about half-
a-dozen of the pioneers proceeded to Ibwiri, which was
u only one and a half mile distant, and on the next day
we joined them. This was one of the richest and finest
clearings we had seen since leaving Yambuya, though
had the Expedition been despatched eight months earlier,
we should have found scores in the same prosperous
condition. Here was a clearing three miles in diameter
abounding in native produce, and hitherto unvisited by
the Manyuema. Almost every plantain stalk bore an
enormous branch of fruit, with from fifty to one hundred
and forty plantains attached. Some specimens of this
fruit were twenty-two inches long, two and a half inches
in diameter, and nearly eight inches round, large enough
to furnish Saat Tato the hunter, with his long desired
full meal. There was an odour of ripe fruit pervading
the air, and as we climbed over the logs and felt our
way gingerly along the prostrate timber, I was often
asked by the delighted people to note the bunches of
mellow fruit hanging temptingly before their eyes.
Before reaching the village Murabo, a Zanzibari head-
man, whispered to me that there were five villages in
Ibwiri, and that each hut in every village was more than
a fourth full of Indian corn, but that Khamis and his
Manyuema had been storing corn in their own huts,
which, according to right of preemption, they had
reserved for themselves.
On entering the street of the village, Khamis met me
with the usual complaints about the wickedness of the
" vile Zanzibaris." Looking down on the ground I saw
many a trail of corn which went to corroborate Murabo's
story, and as Khamis proposed that the Expedition should
occupy the western half of the village, and he and his
fifteen Manyuema would occupy the eastern half, I
ventured to demur to the proposition on the ground
that as we had departed out of his master's territory we
claimed all the land to the eastward, and would in
future dispense with any suggestion as to what we
should do, and that furthermore not a grain of corn,
nor plantain, banana, or any other native product in the
KHAMIS AND THE ZANZIBARIS. 267
land would leave the country without my permission. i 887p
He was told, no people on earth could have borne so Nov - 10 -
uncomplainingly such shames, affronts, and insults as had Ibwin -
been put upon the Zanzibaris, and that in future they
should be permitted to resent all such injuries as they best
knew how. Khamis assented submissively to all this.
The first thing after storing goods, and distributing
the men to their quarters, was to give fifty ears of corn
per man, and to arrange with the natives as to our future
conduct towards one another.
Within an hour it was agreed that the western half of
the Ibwiri clearing should be granted to us for foraging ;
that the eastern half, from a certain stream, should be
the reserve of the natives. Khamis, the Manyuema, was
also induced to enter into the pact. In return for a
packet of brass rods, Boryo, the principal chief of the
Balesse of the district, presented us with five fowls and
a goat.
This was a great day. Since August 31st not one
follower of the Expedition had enjoyed a full meal, but
now bananas, plantains ripe and green, potatoes, herbs,
yams, beans, sugar-cane, corn, melons in such quantities
were given them that were they so many elephants they
could not have exhausted the stock provided for them in
less than ten days. They could gratify to the full the
appetite so long stinted and starved.
As we were compelled to wait for Mr. Jephson and some
sixty Zanzibaris forty of the relief party, boat's crew,
and convalescents from Ipoto the good effect of this
abundance would be visible in a few days. It was also
one of those settlements we had been anxiously searching
for as a recuperating station. On this date the men
were hideous to look upon, because of their gaunt naked-
ness. They were naked, for they had stripped them-
selves to obtain food from the slaves of the Manyuema at
Ugarrowwa's and Ipoto ; of flesh they had none, for they
had been reduced to bones by seventy-three days of
famine and thirteen days of absolute want ; of strength
they had but little, and they were ill-favoured in every
respect ; their native colour of oiled bronze had be-
268 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. come a mixture of grimy black and wood ashes ; their
10 - rolling eyes betrayed signs of disease, impure blood, and
indurated livers ; that beautiful contour of body, and
graceful and delicate outlines of muscles alas, alas !
were all gone. They more befitted a charnel-house
than a camp of men bound to continually wear fighting
accoutrements.
Khamis, the Manyuema guide, offered the next morning
to proceed east to search out the road from Ibwiri, for,
as he informed me, Boryo, the chief, had told him of a
grass-land being not many days off. He thought that
with a few of Boryo's natives, and thirty of our riflemen,
he could discover something of interest. Calling Boryo
to me, he confirmed, as well as we could understand him,
that from a place called Mande', which he said was only
two days' good marching say forty miles the grass-
land could be seen ; that herds of cattle came in such
numbers to the Ituri river to drink that the river
" swelled up." All this chimed with my eager desire to
know how far we were from the open country, and as
Boryo said he was willing to furnish guides, I called for
volunteers. Twenty-eight men came forward, to my
surprise, as willing and as eager for new adventures as
though they had been revelling in plenty for the last few
months. Khamis and his party departed shortly after.
Despite strict prohibition to touch anything on the
native reservation of Ibwiri, one of our raiders paid it a
visit, and captured nineteen fowls, two of which he had
already despatched, the remaining seventeen he had
decapitated, but our detectives pounced upon him and
his stock, as he and his chum were debating what they
should do with the feathers. The flesh and bones did
not promise to be any trouble to them. Close by them
two men had despatched an entire goat, excepting the
head ! These facts serve to illustrate the boundless
capacity of Zanzibari stomachs.
The natives of Ibwiri had behaved most handsomely,
and personally I felt a sense of shame at the ingratitude
of my followers. The chief and his family were living
with us, and exchanged their greetings of " Bodo, Bodo,
THE NATIVES OF IBW1RL 269
ulenda, ulenda," half-a-dozen times a day. Yet our men 1887.
had undergone such extremes of wretchedness during
the last two and a half months that we might have well Ibwiri '
anticipated some excesses would be committed upon the
first opportunity. No other body of men in the wide
world that I am acquainted with could have borne such
a period of hunger so meekly, so resignedly. Not a
grain or a bit of human food discoverable anywhere,
their comrades dying at every camp, or falling dead
along the track, others less patient plunging into the
depths of the wilderness maddened by hunger, leaving
them to fare as they might under the burdens of war-
munitions, and baggage. Goaded by the protracted
hunger, and fierce despair, and loss of trust in their
officers, they might have seized their Remingtons and,
by one volley, have slain their white chiefs, and fed on
them, and shaken off power, and, in a moment, the clutch
of authority which, so far as they knew, was only drag-
ging them down to certain doom.
While I pitied the natives who had lost their property
when they least deserved it, I could not remove from my
memory that extended fast in the area of desolation and
forest wilderness stretching between the Basopo Rapids
and Ibwiri, on the edge of which we were even now
located, or their patient obedience thefts and small
practices notwithstanding, their unfaltering fidelity,
their kindness to us while we were starving, in be-
stowing upon us the choicest and finest of the wild
fruit they had discovered, and their altogether courageous
bearing and noble hopefulness during the terrible days
of adversity ; all these virtues must needs extenuate
their offences, and it was best to await fulness and reflec-
tion to assist us in reclaiming them into tractableness and
good order. Every mile or two almost of that hungry
forest solitude between the Ihuru and Ituri confluence
and Ipoto had been marked by the dead bodies of their
comrades ; there they lay fast mildewing and rotting in
the silent gloom, and, but for the fidelity of the survivors,
none of those capable of giving intelligent testimony of
the stern trials endured during September, October, and
270 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. the half of November, would have lived to relate the sad
and sorrowful details.
The more experience and insight I obtain into human
nature, the more convinced do I become that the greater
portion of a man is purely animal. Fully and regularly
fed, he is a being capable of being coaxed or coerced to
exertion of any kind, love and fear sway him easily, he
is not averse to labour however severe ; but when starved
it is well to keep in mind the motto " Cave Canem," for
a starving lion over a raw morsel of beef is not so
ferocious or so ready to take offence. Eigid discipline,
daily burdens, and endless marching into regions of
which they were perfectly ignorant, never seemed to gall
our men much when their stomachs were pampered, and
abundant provender for their digestive organs were
provided ; but even hanging unto death was only a
temporary damper to their inclination to excessive mis-
chief when pinched with hunger. The aborigines also of
Ibwiri surrounded by plenty are mild and meek enough
through pure sleekness, but the dwarfish nomads of the
forest are, I am told, as fierce as beasts of prey, and
fight till their quivers are empty.
I received word on the 12th that Khamis, the
Manyuema who was supposed to have gone for my
gratification to explore the country ahead, and to make
friends with the aid of the natives, had, owing to
perverseness, been unable to accomplish his mission ;
that he was greatly disappointed, and that he had been
attacked by the natives of East Ibwiri and had lost two
men. I sent word to him to return.
The fleas of Ibwiri became so intolerable that in order
to obtain rest, I had to set my tent in the open street.
On the 13th of November, while taking an inspection
of the village camp, and examining into the condition of
the men, I was amazed at the busy scene of eating I
beheld. Almost every man was engaged in pounding
corn, reducing dried bananas into flour, or grinding
mouthfuls of food with their fine teeth, making amends
for the compulsory fast of September, October and
November.
KHAMIS AND CHIEF BOBYO. 271
Khamis returned on the 14th with a large flock of
goats obtained from somewhere. He was gracious Nov - 14 -
enough to allow us sixteen head. This inclined us to
suspect that the -real object of his design was not to
explore but to extend the conquests of his master, Ismaili,
farther east through our assistance, and to reduce the
natives of Ibwiri into the same state of poverty as the
neighbourhood of Ipoto, for instance. But though
Khamis possessed force sufficient to have accomplished
even this last, the silly fellow's greed caused him to
behave with such reckless disregard of the poisoned
shafts of the natives that he lost three of his men. It
seems that as soon as a flock of goats was sighted,
Khamis forgot his design to explore, urged his Manyuema
to their capture, and retained our people by him. Our
men by these tactics returned uninjured without having
been engaged in this disgraceful action. Then, as
Khamis was returning to our village, mourning the loss
of three of his most active comrades, he suddenly met
Boryo, the Chief of East Ibwiri, and without a word
made him a prisoner. Before reporting to me, Khamis,
on arrival, ordered his men to strangle the chief in
revenge for the death of his men. Happening to hear
of it, I sent a guard to take him by force out of Khamis'
hands, and placed him in a hut out of harm's way, and
bade Boryo rest quiet until Khamis had departed.
We luxuriated during our days of rest. There had
been discovered such an abundance of food that we
might safely have rested six months without fear of
starving. We enjoyed ripe plantains made into puddings
with goats' milk ; fritters, patties and bread, sweet
potatoes, manioc, yams, herbs, fowls and goat meat
without stint. On the evening of this day the menu
for dinner was
Kid soup.
Eoast leg of kid, and baked sweet potatoes.
Boiled sweet manioc.
Fried bananas.
Sweet cake of ripe plantain.
Plantain fritters.
Goats' milk.
272 IN DAKKEST AFRICA.
1887. Already I noted a change in the appearance of our-
14 ' selves and followers. There was certainly more noise,
and once or twice I heard an attempt at singing, but as
there was a well recognised flaw in -the voice, it was
postponed to another day.
At 3 P.M. of the 16th Mr. Jephson appeared, having
performed his mission of relief most brilliantly. As
will be seen by Mr. Jephson' s letter descriptive of
his success, he had been able to proceed to the relief of
Captain Nelson, and to return with him to Ipoto within
seven days, after a journey of about a hundred miles.
Judging from Captain Nelson's letter, he seemed to have
been delivered out of his terrible position to fall into a
similar desperate strait in the midst of the plenty of Ipoto.
The next day Khamis and his Manyuema returned
homeward without taking leave. I despatched a letter
to the officers at Ipoto, sent Khamis' ivory and a present
of cloth with it to Inde'karu, whence the Manyuema
might be able to obtain assistance from their own natives.
I was never so dissatisfied with myself as when I was
compelled to treat these men thus so kindly, and to
allow them to depart without even the small satisfaction
of expressing my private opinion of Manyuema in general
and of the gang at Ipoto in particular. At all points I
was worsted ; they compelled a generous treatment from
me, and finally trapped me into the obligation of being
the carrier of their stolen ivory.
Yet I felt grateful to them somewhat that they had
not taken greater advantage of my position. With
Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke and about thiity men in
their power, they might have compelled a thousand con-
cessions from me, which happily they did not. I hoped
that after a season of forbearance divine justice would
see fit to place me in more independent circumstances.
When the Doctor and Nelson and their sick men were
recovered and in my camp, and the 116 loads and boat
left at Ipoto been conveyed away, then, and not till then,
would I be able to cast up accounts, and demand a per-
emptory and final settlement. The charges were written
plainly and fairly, as a memorandum.
CHARGES AGAINST KILONGA LONG A.
273
67
Messrs. KILONGA LONGA and Co., Ipoto.
To Mr. Stanley, officers and men of the E. P. R. Expedition,
November 17th, 1&87.
To having caused the starvation to death between the
Lenda River and Ibwiri of 67 men : because we had
crossed that river with 271 men and in camp with
those due here shortly there were only 175, and 28
inclusive of Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke therefore
loss of men
To 27 men at Ipoto too feeble to travel, many of whom
will not recover.
To spearing to death Mufta Mazinga ....
To flogging one man to death .....
To flogging Ami, a Zanzibari, 200 lashes.
To attempting to starve Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke.
To instigating robbery of two boxes of ammunition.
To receiving thirty stolen Remington rifles.
To various oppressions of Zanzibaris.
To compelling Sarboko to work as their slave.
To various insults to Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke.
To devastating 44,000 square miles of territory.
To butchery of several thousands of natives.
To enslaving several hundreds of women and children.
To theft of 200 tusks of ivory between May, 1887, and
October, 1887.
To many murders, raids, crimes, devastations past, present
and prospective.
To deaths of Zanzibaris
To mischiefs incalculable !
.69
During the afternoon of the 17th we experienced
once again the evils attending our connection with the
Manyuema. All Ibwiri and neighbouring districts were
in arms against us. The first declaration of their
hostilities took place when a man named Simba pro-
ceeded to the stream close to the camp to draw water,
and received an arrow in the abdomen. Realizing from
our anxious faces the fatal nature of the wound, he cried
out his " Buryani brothers ! " and soon after, being taken
into his hut, loaded a Remington rifle near him, and
made a ghastly wreck of features that were once jovial,
and not uncomely.
The reflections of the Zanzibaris on the suicide were
curious, and best expressed by Sali, Jhe tent boy.
" Think of it, Simba ! a poor devil owning nothing in
the world, without anything or anybody dear to him,
neither name, place, property, or honour, to commit
VOL. i. s
1887.
Nov. 17.
Ibwiri.
27-i
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
Ibwiri.
1887. suicide ! Were he a rich Arab now, a merchant Hindu,
ov< 17> a captain of soldiers, a governor of a district, or a white
man who had suffered misfortune, or had been the victim
of dishonour or shame, yea, I could understand the
spirit of the suicide ; but this Simba, who was no better
than a slave, an outcast of CJnyanyembe', without friends
on the face of the earth, save the few poor things in his
own mess in this camp, to go and kill himself like a man
of wealth ! Faugh ! pitch him into the wilderness, and
let him rot ! What right has he to the honour of a
shroud and a burial ? " This was the sentiment of the
men who were once his comrades though not so
forcibly expressed as was done by little Sali in his fierce
indignation at the man's presumption.
Early on this morning Lieutenant Stairs and thirty-six
rifles were despatched to make a reconnaissance east-
ward under the guidance of Boryo, and a young Man-
yuema volunteer, as we had yet a few days to wait for
the arrival of several convalescents who, wearied of the
cruelties practised at Ipoto on them, preferred death
on the road to the horrible servitude of the Manyuema
slaves.
On the 19th Uledi, the coxswain of the Advance with
his boat's crew, arrived, reporting that there were fifteen
convalescents on the way. By night they were in the
camp.
On the 21st the reconnoitering party under Lieutenant
Stairs returned, Boryo still accompanying them ; nothing
new about the grass land had been obtained, but they
reported a tolerably good path leading steadily east-
ward, which was as comforting news as we could expect.
On the 23rd, the last day of our stay at Ibwiri, there
was a muster and reorganization :
No. 1 company, Jephson
No. 2 Stairs
Soudanese .
Cooks
Boys
Europeans
Manyuema guide
80 men.
76
3 "
6 ;;
\ :
175
IMPROVED CONDITION OF THE MEN. 275
Inclusive of Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke there were
twenty-eight at Ipoto ; we had left to recuperate at Nov * 23 -
Ugarrowwa's fifty-six. Some from Nelson's starvation Ibwiri *
camp under Umari, the headman, probably ten, might
return ; so that we reckoned the number of the advance
column to be 268 still living out of 389 men who had
departed from Yambuya 139 days previously, and put
down our loss at 111. We were greatly mistaken,
however, for by this date many of the sick at Ugarrowwa's
had died, and the condition of the sick at Ipoto was
deplorable.
Since our arrival at Ibwiri the majority of our followers
had gained weight of body at the rate of a pound per
day. Some were positively huge in girth ; their eyes
had become lustrous, and their skins glossy like oiled
bronze. For the last three nights they had ventured
upon songs ; they hummed their tunes as they pounded
their corn ; they sang as they gazed at the moon at
night after their evening meal. Frequently a hearty laugh
had been heard. In the afternoon of this day a sparring
match took place between tw T o young fellows, and a good
deal of severe thumping was exchanged ; they were
always " spinning yarns " to interested listeners. Life
had come back by leaps and bounds. Brooding over
skeletons and death, and musing on distant friends in
their far-away island, had been abandoned for hopeful
chat over the future, about the not far distant grass
land with its rolling savannahs, and green champaigns,
abounding in fat cattle ; and they dwelt unctuously on
full udders and massive humps, and heavy tails of sheep,
and granaries of millet and sesame, pots of zogga, pombe,
or some other delectable stimulant, and the Lake Haven,
where the white man's steamers were at anchor, ap-
peared distinctly in their visions.
They all now desired the march, for the halt had been
quite sufficient. There were twenty perhaps to whom
another fortnight's rest was necessary, but they all
appeared to me to have begun recovery, and, provided
food was abundant, their marching without loads would
not be hurtful.
276 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. At dawn of the bright and sunny day, 24th of Novem-
24 - her, the Soudanese trumpeter blew the signal with such
in- cheery strains that found a ready response from every
man. The men shouted their " Ready, aye ready,
Master ! " in a manner that more reminded me of former
expeditions, than of any day we had known on this.
There was no need of the officers becoming exasperated
at delays of laggards and the unwilling ; there was not
a malingerer in the camp. Every face was lit up with
hopefulness. A prospective abundance of good cheer
invited them on. For two days ahead the path was known
by those of the reconnaissance, and the members of the
party had, like Caleb and Joshua, expatiated upon the
immense and pendent clusters of plantains effusing
delicious odours of ripeness, and upon the garden plots of
potatoes, and waving fields of maize, &c. Therefore, for
once, we were relieved from the anxiety as to who should
take this load, or that box ; there was no searching
about for the carriers, no expostulations nor threats,
but the men literally leaped to the goods pile, fought
for the loads, and laughed with joy ; and the officers
faces wore grateful smiles, and expressed perfect content-
ment with events.
We filed out of the village, a column of the happiest
fellows alive. The accursed* Manyuema were behind us,
and in our front rose in our imaginations vivid pictures
of pastoral lands, and a great lake on whose shores we
were to be greeted by a grateful Pasha, and a no less
grateful army of men.
In forty-five minutes we arrived at Boryo's village
(the chief had been released the day before), a long,
orderly arrangement of a street 33 feet wide, flanked
by four low blocks of buildings 400 yards in length.
According to the doors we judged that fifty-two families
had formed Boryo's particular community. The chiefs
house was recognized by an immense slab of wood four
feet wide and six feet long, and two inches thick ; its
doorway being cut out of this in a diamond figure.
The height of the broad eaves was 10 feet above the
ground, and the houses were 10 feet in width. The
BORYO'S VILLAGE. 277
eaves projected 30 inches in front, and 2 feet over the ISST.
back walls. Outside of the village extended, over level Nov - 24 -
and high ground, the fields, gardens, and plantations, Ibwiri '
banked all round by the untouched forest, which looked
dark, ominous, and unwelcome. Altogether Boryo's vil-
lage was the neatest and most comfortable we had seen
throughout the valley of the Aruwimi. One hundred
yards from the western end ran a perennial and clear
stream, which abounded with fish of the silurus kind.
After a short halt we resumed the journey, and
entered the forest. Four miles beyond Boryo's we
passed over a swamp, which was very favourable to fine
growths of the Kaphia palm, and soon after lunched.
In the afternoon I undertook, as an experiment, to
count my paces for an hour, and to measure a space of
200 yards, to find the number of inches to a pace, and
found that the average rate in a fair track through the
forest was 4800 paces of 26 inches long =3470 yards
per hour. At 3 o'clock we camped in an extensive
pigmies' village. The site commanded four several
roads, leading to villages. There is no doubt it was a
favourite spot, for the village common w T as well tamped
and adapted for sport, gossip, and meetings. The bush
around the camp was quite undisturbed.
On the 25th, after 8 miles march, we reached
Indemwani. Our track led along the water-parting
between the Ituri and Ihuru rivers. The village was of
oval shape, similar in architecture to Boryo's. A wealth
of plantains surrounded it, and Indian corn, tobacco,
beans, and tomatoes were plentiful. In passing through
the clearing, over a fearful confusion of logs, one of our
men toppled over, and fell and broke his neck.
From Indemwani we moved on the 26th to West
Indenduru, through a most humid land. Streams were
crossed at every mile ; moss, wet and dripping, clothed
stems from base to top. Even shrubs and vines were
covered -with it.
A peculiarity of this day's march was a broad highway,
cut and cleared for 3 miles through the undergrowth,
which was terminated by a large village of the pigmies,
278 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. but recently vacated. There were ninety-two huts,
NOV. 26. w hi cn we ma y take to represent ninety-two families, or
uru- thereabouts. There was one hut more pretentious than
the others, which possibly was the chief's house. We
had seen now about twenty villages of the forest pigmies,
but as yet we had only viewed the pretty little woman
at Ugarrowwa the miniature Hebe.
Lieutenant Stairs, during his reconnaissance from
Ibwiri, had reached West Indenduru, and had left the
village standing ; but because he had occupied it, the
natives had set fire to it after his departure. We observed
also that the Balesse seldom ate of the produce of a field
twice, and that a plantain grove, after bearing fruit once,
is abandoned for another ; and a corn plot, after being
tilled, sown, and harvested, is left to revert to wilder-
ness. They appear to be continually planting bananas
and preparing ground for corn, which accounted for the
immense clearings we had passed, and for the thousands
of trees that littered the ground in one great ruin. For
the bananas or plantains, they simply cut down the
underwood and plant the young bulbs in a shallow hole,
with sufficient earth to keep it upright. They then cut
the forest down, and let the trees lie where they fall.
In six months the Musa bulbs have thriven wonderfully
under shade and among roots and de'bris, and grown to
8 feet in height ; within a year they have borne fruit.
The Indian corn or maize requires sunshine. The trees
are cut down well above the buttress, by building scaffolds
10, 15, or even 20 feet high. The logs are cut up, and
either split for slabs or lining for the inner and outer
walls of their huts, or scooped out for troughs for the
manufacture of plantain wine. The branches are piled
around the plot to rot ; they do not burn them, because
that would impoverish the soil, and as the surface is rich
in humus, it would burn down to the clay.
Considering what great labour is involved in the
clearing of a portion of primeval forest, we were tempted
to regard the Balesse' as very foolish in burning their
villages for such a trivial cause as one night's occupation
of them by strangers ; but it is an instance of the
EAST AND WEST INDENDURU. 279
obstinate sullenness of these people. Boryo's village,
for instance, could scarcely be constructed under a Nov - 26 -
twelvemonth. The population of the largest village we Indendurtt
saw could not exceed 600 souls ; but while we wonder
at their prejudices, we must award credit to them for
great industry arid unlimited patience to produce such
splendid results as we observed.
East Indenduru was also an exceedingly well-built
village, and extremely clean, though the houses within
swarmed with vermin. The street, however, was too
narrow for the height of the buildings, and a fire occurring
in the night might easily have consumed half the inhabi-
tants. For the huts were higher than at Boryo's, and as
the buildings were a few hundred yards in length, and had
only one principal exit at the eastern end, the danger of
a fire was such that we did not occupy it without having
taken many precautions to avoid a possible disaster in
what appeared to be a perfect trap.
Field- beans, of a dark variety, were gathered by the
bushel, and our men revelled in the juice of the sugar-
cane.
We were now in S. Lat. 1 22^' and south of the
watershed, all streams flowing towards the Ituri.
On the 28th we halted in East Indenduru, and sent
three separate reconnoitring parties to obtain a knowledge
of the general direction of the routes leading out of the
settlement. We had tested the task of forming our own
track through the forest long enough, and having dis-
covered one which had been of such service to us, we
were loth to revert to the tedious labour of travelling
through jungles and undergrowth again.
Jephson's party proceeded S.S.E., and finally S., and
at noon turned back to report. This road would not do
for us. Kashid's party took one leading E.N.E., and
finally north, through two small villages, one path return-
ing southerly, another going north-easterly. Continuing
his explorations along the latter, he came to a native
camp. There was a slight skirmish ; the natives fled, and
he obtained a prize of nine fat goats, only five of which
they brought to camp. This road would not suit us either.
280 IN DARKEST AFBICA.
1887. A third search party was led by a famous scout, who
NOV. 28. discovered one path heading easterly. We resolved to
ludenduru.
On the 29th we left Indenduru and journeyed to
Indepessu by noon, and in the afternoon sheered by a
northerly path to the settlement of the Baburu, having
accomplished a distance of ten miles in five hours, which
was exceedingly fair walking.
On the next morning, after a march of an hour and a
half along a tolerably good path, we emerged in front of an
extensive clearing of about 240 acres. The trees were but
recently cut. This marked the advent of a powerful tribe,
or a late removal to new ground of old settlers of some
numerical force, resolved upon securing many creature
comforts. A captive woman of the Waburu led the way
through the middle of this wide abattis, the very sight
of which was appalling. An hour later we had crossed
this, not without bruised shins and much trembling,
and the path then led up an easy ascent up a prolonged
span of a hill. The hollows on either side of it showed
prodigious groves of plantains arid many gardens, ill-
kept, devoted to herbs and gourds. Within thirty minutes
from the summit of the ascent we had reached an altitude
that promised to give us shortly a more extended view
than any we had been lately accustomed to, and we
pressed gladly upwards, and soon entered a series of
villages that followed the slope. A village of these parts
always gave us a highway well trodden, from forty to
sixty feet wide ; in a series of this type of villages we
should soon be able to pace a mile. We had passed
through several fine separate long blocks of low struc-
tures, when the foremost of the advance guard was seen
running swiftly down to meet me. He asked me to look
towards the sunrise, and, turning my eyes in that
direction, they were met by the gratifying sight of a
fairly varied scene of pasture-land and forest, of level
champaigns and grassy slopes of valleys and hills,
rocky knolls and softly rounded eminences, a veritable
"land of hills and valleys, that drinketh the rain of
heaven." That the open country was well watered was
OUTSKIRTS OF THE FOREST.
281
Bakwuru.
indicated by the many irregular lines of woods which .
marked the courses of the streams, and by the clumps of Xor - 30 -
trees, whose crowns just rose above their sloping banks.
The great forest in which we had been so long buried,
and whose limits were in view, appeared to continue in-
tact and unbroken to the KE., but to the E. of it was
an altogether different region of grassy meads and plains
and hills, freely sprinkled with groves, clusters, and thin
lines of trees up to certain ranges of hills that bounded
the vision, and at whose base I knew must be the goal
whither we had for months desired to reach.
VIEW OF MOUNT PISGAH FROM THE EASTWARD.
This, then, was the long promised view and the long
expected exit out of gloom ! Therefore I called the tall
peak terminating the forested ridge, of which the spur
whereon we stood was a part, and that rose two miles E.
of us to a height of 4600 feet above the sea, Pisgah,
Mount Pisgah, because, after 156 days of twilight in
the primeval forest, we had first viewed the desired
pasturelands of Equatoria.
The men crowded up the slope eagerly with inquiring
open-eyed looks, which, before they worded their thoughts,
we knew meant "Is it true ? Is it no hoax ? Can it be
JN DARKEST AFRICA.
1837. possible that we are near the end of this forest hell ? '"'
They were convinced themselves in a few moments after
they had dropped their burdens, and regarded the view
with wondering and delighted surprise.
" Aye, friends, it is true. By the mercy of God we are
well nigh the end of our prison and dungeon ! " They
held their hands far out yearningly towards the superb
land, and each looked up to the bright blue heaven in
grateful worship, and after they had gazed as though
fascinated, they recovered themselves with a deep sigh,
and as they turned their heads, lo ! the sable forest heaved
away to the infinity of the west, and they shook their
clenched hands at it with gestures of defiance and hate.
Feverish from sudden exaltation, they apostrophised it for
its cruelty to themselves and their kinsmen ; they com-
pared it to Hell, they accused it of the murder of one
hundred of their comrades, they called it the wilderness
of fungi and wood-beans ; but the great forest which lay
vast as a continent before them, and drowsy, like a great
beast, with monstrous fur thinly veiled by vaporous ex-
halations, answered not a word, but rested in its infinite
sullenness, remorseless and implacable as ever.
From S.E. to S. extended a range of mountains be-
tween 6,000 and 7,000 feet above the sea. One woman
captive indicated S.E. as our future direction to the great
water that " rolled incessantly on the shore with a boom-
ing noise, lifting and driving the sand before it," but as
we were in S. Lat. 1. 22', on the same parallel as Kavalli,
our objective point, I preferred aiming east, straight to-
wards it.
Old Boryo, chief of Ibwiri, had drawn with his hand a
semicircle from S.E. to N.W. as the course of the Ituri
River, and said that the river rose from a plain at the foot
of a great hill, or a range of hills. To the S.E. of Pisgah
we could see no plain, but a deep wooded valley, and unless
our eyes deceived us, the forest seemed to ascend up the
slopes of the range as far as its summits. Five months
of travel in one continuous forest was surely experience
enough ; a change would therefore be agreeable, even if
we varied but our hardships. This was another reason
MOUNT PIS G AH.
283
why I proposed to decline all advice upon the proper
path leading to the "great water."
In the village of the Bakwuru, in which we now pre-
pared to encamp, we found sleeveless vests of thick buffalo
hide, which our men secured, as fitting armour against
the arrows of the tribes of the grass land.
On the 1st of December we retraced our steps down
the spur, and then struck along a track running easterly.
In a short time we ascended another spur leading up to
VILLAGES OF THE BAKWURU ON A SPUR OF PISGAH.
a terrace below Pisgah peak, where we obtained the
highest reading of the aneroid that we had yet reached.
We then followed a path leading from the terrace down
another spur to the average level. A number of well-
defined and trodden roads were crossed, but our path
seemed to increase in importance until, at 11.15 A.M., we
entered the large village of lyugu, which, of course, was
quite deserted, so quickly do the natives of the forest
seem to.be apprised of new arrivals. The street of this
village was forty feet wide.
284
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. We observed a considerable dry ness in the woods be
l ' tween Pisgah base and lyugu, which was a great change
iru ' from that excessive humidity felt and seen between
Indenduru and Ibwiri. The fallen forest leaves had a
slightly crispy look about them and crackled under our
feet, and the track, though still in primeval shade, had
somewhat of the dusty appearance of a village street.
A VILLAGE AT THE BASE OF
PISGAH.
After the noon 'jml halt we made a
two ' hours' march to a small village
consisting of three conical huts, near
which we camped. Though we had travelled over ten
miles we might have been hundreds of miles yet from
the open country for all we could gather from our
surroundings. For they were, as usual, of tall dense
woods, of true tropic character, dark, sombrous and
high, bound one to the other with creepers and vines,
and a thick undergrowth throve under the shades.
WE REACH THE PASTURE-LAND.
285
We, however, picked up a strange arrow in one of iss?.
the huts, which differed greatly from any we had Dec> l>
as yet seen. It was twenty-eight inches in length, Bakwuru -
and its point was spear-shaped, and three inches
long. Its shaft was a light reed cane, beautifully and
finely notched for decoration, a thin triangular-shaped
piece of kid leather directed
the arrow, instead of a leaf
or a piece of black cloth as
hitherto. A quiver full of
forest- tribe arrows was also
found, and they were twenty
inches long, and each arrow-
head differed from the other,
though each was murderously
sharp and barbed.
On the 2nd of December,
soon after leaving the camp,
we lost the native road, and
had to pick our way amongst
a perplexing number of buffalo
and elephant tracks. A stupid
fellow, who had been out
wandering, had informed us
that he had reached the plain
the night before, and that he
could easily guide us to it.
Trusting in him, we soon lost
all signs of a track, and began
a crooked and erratic course
through the woods, as in times = - --
past. After nearly three
hours' travelling N. by E. we
stumbled upon a village, whose conical roofs were
thatched with grass. This was a grand discovery, and
was hailed with cheers. One fellow literally rushed to
the grass and kissed it lovingly. Already there were
two characteristics of pasture-land before us, the cone
hut and the grass thatch. We halted for a noon rest,
and a few young men took advantage of it to explore,
CHIEF OP THE IYUGU.
286 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
i 7. and before the halting-time was expired brought to us
a bunch of green grass, which was hailed with devout
raptures, as Noah and his family may have hailed the
kindly dove with the olive branch. However, they
reported that the way they had followed led to a swamp,
and swamps being a horror to a laden caravan, our
afternoon march was made in a S.S.E. direction, which
in ninety minutes brought us to Indesura, another
village, or rather a district, consisting of several small
settlements of cone huts thatched with grass. Here
we halted.
Having occasion to repair a roof a man mounted to
the top of a house, and looking round languidly was
presently seen to lift his hand to his eyes and gaze
earnestly, He then roared out loud enough for the
entire village to hear, " I see the grassland. Oh, but
we are close to it ! "
" Nay," said one in reply, mockingly, " don't you also
see the lake, and the steamer, and that Pasha whom we
seek ? "
Most of us were, however, stirred by the news, and
three men climbed up to the roofs with the activity
of wild cats, others climbed to the tops of trees, while a
daring young fellow climbed one which would have
tasked a monkey almost, and a chorus of exclamations
rose, " Aye, verily, it is the truth of God, the open land
is close to us, and we knew it not ! Why, it is merely
an arrow's flight distant ! Ah, when we reach it, farewell
to darkness and blindness."
As a man went to draw water from the stream close
by, an ancient crone stepped out of the bush, and the
man dropped his water-pot and seized her. She being
vigorous and obstinate, like most of her sex just
previous to dotage, made a vigorous defence for her
liberty. A Countess of Salisbury could not have been
more resolute, but the man possessed superior strength
and craft and hauled her into camp. By dint of smiles
and coaxing and obsequiously filling a long pipe for her,
we learned that we were in Indesura, that the people
were called Wanya-Sura, that the villagers quenched
TOBACCO AT INDE-SURA. 289
their thirst with the waters of the Ituri. " The Ituri ? "
" Ay, the Ituri ; this stream close by ; " that many days Dec - 4 -
east of us was a great broad river, ever so much ]
broader than the Ituri, with canoes as wide as a house
(ten feet) which would carry six people (sic) ; that a
few days north there was a mighty tribe called the
Banzanza, and east of them another people called the
Bakandi, and both of these tribes possessed numerous
herds of cattle, and were very valorous and warlike, and
who were rich in cattle, cowries, and brass wire.
Our ancient captive, who was somewhat peculiar for
her taste in personal decoration by having a wooden
disk of the size of an ulster button intruded into the
centre of her upper lip, was now seized with another fit
of obstinacy and scowled malignantly at all of us except
at a bashful smooth-faced youth upon whom she
apparently doted, but the foolish youth ascribed the
ugliness of agedness to witchcraft, and fled from her.
Inde-sura and, as we discovered later, all the villages
situated on the edge of the forest was remarkable for
the variety and excellent quality of its products. Mostly
all the huts contained large baskets of superior tobacco
weighing from twenty to fifty pounds each, such quan-
tities, indeed, that every smoker in the camp obtained
from five to ten pounds. The crone called it " Taba ; " in
Ibwiri it was called Tabo. Owing to the imperfect dry-
ing it is not fragrant, but it is extremely smokable.
Fifty pipefuls a day of it would not produce so much
effect on the nerves as one of the article known as
Cavendish. But here and there among the leaves there
were a few of rich brown colour, slightly spotted with
nitre which produced a different effect. Two of our
officers experimented on a pipeful of this, which they
deemed to be superior, and were inconceivably wretched
in consequence. When, however, these leaves are picked
out, the tobacco is mild and innocuous, as may be
judged by the half-pint pipe-bowls peculiar to this
region. In every district near the grassland the plant
is abundantly cultivated, for the purpose of commerce
with the herdsmen of the plains in exchange for meat.
VOL. i. T
290
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887.
Dec. 4.
Inde-sura.
The castor-oil plant was also extensively cultivated.
Requiring a supply of castor-oil as medicine, the beans
were roasted, and then pounded in a wooden mortar, and
we expressed a fair quantity, which proved very effective.
We also required a supply for rifles, and their mechanisms,
and the men prepared a supply for anointing their
bodies an operation which made them appear fresh,
clean, and vigorous.
Having discovered that four of our scouts were
strangely absent, I despatched Rashid bin Omar and
twenty men in search of them. They were discovered
and brought to us next morning, and to my surprise the
PIPES.
four absentees, led by the incorrigible Juma Waziri, were
driving a flock of twenty fine goats, which the chief
scout had captured by a ruse. I had often been tempted
to sacrifice Juma for the benefit of others, but the rogue
always appeared with such an inoffensive, and crave-
your-humble-pardon kind of face, which could not be
resisted. He was of a handsome Abyssinian type, but the
hypocrisy on his features marred their natural beauty.
A Mhuma, Masai, Mtaturu, or Galla must have meat,
even more so than the Englishman. It is an article of
faith with him, that life is not worth living without an
occasional taste of beef. I therefore warned Juma again,
and consoled myself with the reflection, that his career
AN INCORRIGIBLE RAIDER. 291
as a scout could only be for a brief time, and that he
would surely meet natives of craft and courage equal to Dec< 4 -
his own some day.
We had made an ineffectual start on this day, had
actually left the village a few hundred yards when we
were stopped by the depth of a river forty yards wide
and with a current of two and a half miles an hour.
The old crone called this the Ituri. Marvelling that
between Ipoto and Ibwiri a river 400 yards wide could
be narrowed to such a narrow stream, we had returned
to Inde'-sura for a day's halt, and I had immediately after
sent Lieutenant Stairs and Mr. Jephson with sufficient
escort back along yesterday's path to find a ford across
the Ituri.
At 4 P.M. both officers returned to report a successful
discovery of a ford a mile and a half higher up the
stream, and that they had set foot upon the grassland,
in proof of which they held a bunch of fine young
succulent grass. Meantime, Uledi and his party had
also found another ford waist deep, still nearer
Inde'-sura.
On the evening of this day a happier community of
men did not exist on the face of the round earth than
those who rejoiced in the camp of Inde-sura. On the
morrow they were to bid farewell to the forest. The
green grassy region of which we had dreamed in our
dark hours, when slumbering heavily from exhaustion of
body and prostration from hunger during the days of
starvation, was close at hand. Their pots contained
generous supplies of juicy meat ; in the messes
were roast and boiled fowls, corn mush, plantain flour
porridge, and ripe bananas. No wonder they Avere now
exuberantly happy, and all except ten or twelve men
were in finer condition them when they had embarked so
hopefully for the journey in the port of Zanzibar.
On the 4th of December we filed out of Inde'-sura and
proceeded to the ford. It was waist deep, and at this
place fifty yards wide. Two of the aneroids indicated
an altitude of 3050 feet above the ocean 1850 feet
higher than the lerel of the river at the landing-place of
292 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. Yambuya, and 2000 feet higher than the Congo at
Stanley Pool.
' nd ' From the Ituri we entered a narrow belt of tall timber
on its left bank, and, after waiting for the column to cross,
marched on, led by Mr. Mounteney Jephson along a broad
elephant track for about 600 yards, and then, to our
undisguised joy, emerged upon a rolling plain, green as
an English lawn, into broadest, sweetest daylight, and
warm and glorious sunshine, to inhale the pure air
with an uncontrollable rapture. Judging of the feelings
of others by my own, we felt as if we had thrown all age
and a score of years away, as we stepped with invigorated
limbs upon the soft sward of young grass. We strode
forward at a pace most unusual, and finally, unable to
suppress our emotions, the whole caravan broke into a
run. Every man's heart seemed enlarged and lifted up
with boyish gladness. The blue heaven above us never
seemed so spacious, lofty, pure, and serene as at this
moment. We gazed at the sun itself undaunted by its
glowing brightness. The young grass, only a month
since the burning of the old, was caressed by a bland,
soft breeze, and turned itself about as if to show us its
lovely shades of tender green. Birds, so long estranged
from us, sailed and soared through the lucent atmosphere ;
antelopes and elands stood on a grassy eminence gazing
and wondering, and then bounded upward and halted
snorting their surprise, to which our own was equal ;
buffaloes lifted their heads in amazement at the intruders
on their silent domain, heaved their bulky forms, and
trooped away to a safer distance. A hundred square
miles of glorious country opened to our view apparently
deserted for we had not as yet been able to search out
the fine details of it. Leagues upon leagues of bright
green pasture land undulated in gentle waves, intersected
by narrow winding lines of umbrageous trees that filled
the hollows, scores of gentle hills studded with dark
clumps of thicket, graced here and there by a stately
tree, lorded it over level breadths of pasture and softly
sloping champaigns ; and far away to the east rose some
frowning ranges of mountains beyond which we were
WE EEACH THE GRASS LAND. 295
certain slept in its deep gulf the blue Albert. Until issi.
breathlessness forced a halt, the caravan had sped on the Dec - 4 *
double-quick for this was also a pleasure that had been Grass Land *
long deferred.
Then we halted on the crest of a commanding hill to
drink the beauty of a scene to which we knew no
rival, which had been the subject of our thoughts and
dreams for months, and now we were made " glad ac-
cording to the days wherein we had been afflicted and
the period wherein we had seen evil." Every face gloated
over the beauty of the landscape and reflected the secret
pleasure of the heart. The men were radiant with the
fulfilment of dear desires. Distrust and sullenness were
now utterly banished. We were like men out of durance
and the dungeon free and unfettered, having exchanged
foulness and damp for sweetness and purity, darkness
and gloom for divine light and wholesome air. Our
eyes followed the obscure track, roved over the pasture
hillocks, great and small, every bosky islet and swarded
level around it, along the irregularities of the forest line
that rose darkly funereal behind us, advancing here,
receding there, yonder assuming a bay-like canoe, here
a cape-like point. The mind grasped the minutest
peculiarity around as quick as vision, to cling to it for
many, many years. A score of years hence, if we live so
long, let but allusion be made to this happy hour when
every soul trembled with joy, and praise rose spon-
taneously on every lip, and we shall be able to map the
whole with precision and fidelity.
After examining the contour of the new region before
us with the practical view of laying a course free from
river or swamp, I led the Expedition N.N.E. to a rocky
knoll which was about four miles from us, in order to
strike the southern base of a certain hilly range that
ran E. by S. from the knoll. I imagined we should
then be able to travel over upland, trending easterly,
without much inconvenience.
We reached the base of the rock-heap that stood about
300 feet above the valley to our right, then perceiving
that the obscure game track we had followed had de-
296 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. veloped into a native highway running N.E., we struck
^ 4> across the grassy upland to retain our hold upon the
Grass Land 11-1,11 i T
crown we had gained, the short young grass enabling us
to do so without fatigue. But near noon the tall unburnt
grass of last season interrupted our too-easy advance
with its tangle of robust stalks of close growth ; but we
bore on until 12.30, and after an hour of serious exercise
halted by the side of a crystal stream for refreshments.
In the afternoon we breasted the opposing grassy
slope, and, after an hour and a half of rapid pacing, selected
a camp near the junction of two streams, which flowed
south-easterly. Eelieved from their burdens, a few tireless
fellows set out to forage in some villages we had observed
far below our line of march in the valley. The sudden-
ness of their descent among the natives provided them
with a rich store of fowls, sugar-cane, and ripe branches
of bananas. They brought us specimens of the weapons
of this new land : several long bows and lengthy arrows ;
shields of a heavy rectangular form, formed of a double
row of tough rods crossed, and tightly bound together
with fibre and smeared with some gummy substance.
They presented very neat workmanship, and were alto-
gether impenetrable to arrows or spears. Besides shields
the natives wore vests of buffalo hide, which appeared to
be quite impervious to pistol shots.
Our course as far as the rocky knoll already described
was nearly parallel with the edge of the forest, our path
varying in distance from it from a half mile to a mile
and a half. As a sea or a lake indents its shore, so
appeared the view of the line of forest.
The trend of the Ituri that we had crossed, which we
must call West Ituri, was E.S.E.. I should have esti-
mated the source of the river to have been distant from
the crossing about 25 geographical miles N.N.W.
On the next day we advanced up a long slope of short
grass land, and on the crest halted to arrange the
column with more order, lest we might be suddenly
confronted by an overwhelming force, for we were as
yet ignorant of the land, its people, and the habits of
those among whom we had dropped so suddenly.
THE ITURI RIVER. 297
Marching forward we chose a slight track that followed
the crest leading E. by S. , but soon all traces of it were Dec - 4 -
lost. However, we were on a commanding upland, and G
a score of miles were visible to us in any direction out
of which we might select any course. A village was in
view N.E. of us, and to it we directed our steps, that
we might avail ourselves of a path, for the closely-
packed acreages of reedy cane and fif teen-feet-high grass,
chat we stumbled upon occasionally, were as bad as the
undergrowth of the jungle. The very tallest and
rankest grass impeded us, and prevented rapid advance.
We crossed jungly gullies, on whose muddy ground were
impressed the feet of lions and leopards, and finally
entered a tract ot acacia thorn, which was a sore an-
noyance, and out of this last we emerged into the
millet fields of Mbiri. In a few seconds the natives
were warned of our approach, and fled instinctively, and,
Parthian-like, shot their long arrows. The scouts dashed
across every obstacle, and seized a young woman and a
lad of twelve, who were the means of instructing our
poor ignorance. No long conversation could be main-
tained with them, owing to our very imperfect knowledge
of any dialect spoken near this region, but a few names
of nouns assisted by gestures brought out the fact that
we were in the district of Mbiri, that the main road
easterly would take us to the Babusesse country, that
beyond them lay the Abunguma, all of which naturally
we heard with supreme indifference. What did such
names convey to dull senses and, blank minds ? They
had never heard of Shakespeare, Milton, or even of Her
Majesty the Queen
" Had any of them heard of Muta, or Luta Nzige ? "
A shake of the head.
" Of Unyoro ? "
" Unyoro ? Yes. Unyoro lies a great way off,"
pointing east.
" Qf a great water near Unyoro ? "
" The Ituri, you mean ? "
" No, wider ; ever so much wider than the Ituri aa
wide as all this plain."
298 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. But instead of confining themselves to monosyllables,
Dec. o. wn i cft we niight easily have understood, the wretched
sse ' woman and boy, anxious to convey too much informa-
tion, smothered comprehension by voluble talk in their
dialect, and so perplexed us that we had recourse to
silence and patience. They would show us the way to
Babusesse at least.
The mode of hut construction is similar to that seen
all over East and Central Africa. It is the most
popular. A cone roof occupies two-thirds of the height ;
one-third is devoted to the height of the walls. Huts
of this pattern, scattered amongst the banana groves, are
found every few dozen yards. Paths lead from one to the
other, and are most baffling to the stranger, who without
a local guide must necessarily go astray. To every
group of huts there are attached outhouses for cooking
sheds, for gossip, to store fuel, and doing chores ; also
circular grass-walled and thatched little granaries raised
a foot or so above the ground as protection against
vermin and damp.
Our people obtained a large quantity of ripe plan-
tains and ripe bananas, out of which the aborigines
manufacture an intoxicating wine called marwa. A few
goats were also added to our flock, and about a dozen
fowls were taken. All else were left untouched according
to custom, and we resumed our journey.
The path was well trodden. Traffic and travel had
tamped it hard and smooth. It led S.E. by E. up and
down grassy hills and vales. Near noon we halted for
refreshments, shaded by fine woods, and close by
boomed a loud cataract of the Ituri, we were told.
This was rather puzzling. We could not understand
how the Ituri, which we had forded the day before,
could be roaring over precipices and terraces at this
high altitude, and after we had purposely struck away
from its valley to avoid it.
A march of an hour and a half in the afternoon,
apparently not very far from the river, brought us
to the populous district of the Babusesse. The banana
plantations were very extensive, reminding me of
DISTRICT OF THE BABUSESSE.
299
Uganda, and their deep shades covered a multitude of
huts. Fields of millet and sesame, plots of sweet Dec * 5 *
potatoes, occupied the outskirts of these plantations, B
and there was ample evidence round about that the
land was thickly peopled and industriously cultivated.
Before entering the banana shades we repaired our
ranks, and marched in more compact order. A strong
body of men armed with Winchesters formed the
advance guard ; a similar number of men armed with
Remingtons, under the command of Stairs, closed the
rear of the column. But however well cautioned the
men were against breaking
rank, no sooner had the
advance guard passed safely
through a dangerous local-
ity than the main body in-
variably despatched scores
of looters into huts and
granaries to hunt up booty
and fowls, bananas, goats,
sugar-cane, and trivial ar-
ticles of no earthly use.
These plantations hid a
large number of natives,
who permitted the advance
to pass because their files
were unbroken, and their
eyes on the watch, but those
straggling looters soon gave the aborigines the oppor-
tunity. Some arrows flew well aimed ; one pinned a
man's arm to his side, another glancing from a rib
admonished its owner of his folly. A volley from rifles
drove the men away from their covert without harm
to any of them.
At the easternmost settlement we camped. There
were only two large conical huts and other outhouses in
it, and around these the huts for the night were ar-
ranged hastily, put up with banana leaves sufficient to
shed rain and dew.
At dusk I called the captives to me again, and at-
SHTELDS OF BABUSESSE.
300 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. tempted, during half an hour, to gain a lucid answer to
the question as to whether there was a great body of
sse ' water or great river east of us. When one of the head-
men who were assisting us demanded to know which was
the largest Nyanza, that of Unyoro, or that of Uganda
" Nyanza ! " cried the native boy " Nyanza ? Ay,
the Nyanza lies this way " (pointing east) " and extends
that way" (north-east) "a long distance;" and when
asked how many " sleeps " intervened between the Babu-
sesse, held up three fingers on his dexter hand, and
answered "three."
It was now dark, and we were suddenly startled by a
shriek of pain, and a sequent yell singularly weird, and
with a note of triumph in it, and in the silence that
followed we heard the hurtling of arrows through the
banana leaves above our heads.
" Put out the fires ! Keep cool. Where are the
sentries ? Why are they not at their posts ? " were the
next words uttered.
The natives had stolen on us at the very hour when
the camp was least watched, for it was supper-time, and
the guards, except on unusual occasions, were permitted
to feed before going out on guard duty for the night.
We soon ascertained that one arrow had penetrated the
thigh of a man named Salim to the depth of four inches,
another had pierced the roast leg of a kid before the fire,
several others had perforated banana stalks. Salim, after
a little coaxing, bravely drew out the shaft until the
barbed point was seen, when, with a wrench, I extracted
it with a pair of pincers. Eucalyptine was then applied
to the wound, and the man was sent to his quarters.
Half an hour later, all the guards being now on duty,
however, the natives essayed another quarter of the
camp, but the rifle-shots rang out quickly in reply, and
there was a scamper and a rustle heard. In the distance
we heard two rifles fired, and an agonised cry, by which
we knew that there were some of our incorrigible looters
abroad.
Our force was weak enough, in all conscience, not in
numbers, but in real strength, for defence and capacity
NATIVES ATTACK THE CAMP. 301
for bearing ammunition, and these wanderers were always 1887.
a source of great anxiety to me. It was useless to reason Dec> 5
and expostulate ; only downright severity restrained
them, and as yet, so fresh were we from the horrors
of the forest, that I had not the moral courage to
apply the screw of discipline ; but when I assumed
mildness, their own heedless imprudence incurred punish-
ments far more severe than any of us would ever have
thought of inflicting.
A heavy rain fell on us during the night, which
detained us next morning until eight o'clock. I em-
ployed the time in extracting something intelligible
respecting the character of the natives in front, but we
were all so profoundly ignorant of the language that we
could make but little headway. In the endeavour to
make herself clear, the woman drew on the ground a
sketch of the course of the Ituri. This illustrated one of
the strangest facts in African geography that one could
imagine. The river was represented as going up to the
crest of the watershed, flowing steeply upward parallel
with Lake Albert, and finally lifting itself over to be
precipitated into the Nyanza ! Stupefied by what she
said, I kept her by me as we marched out of camp into
the open. From the crown of a hill she pointed out,
half a mile below, the Ituri Eiver flowing eastward. The
stretch in view was an east by south course.
Now here was a deep puzzle. We had crossed from
the right bank to the left bank of the Ituri two days
previously, in N. Lat. 1 24' : we were now in N. Lat.
1 28'. Yet the Ituri we saw flowed E. by S. and
E.S.S., and my route to Kavalli was obviously south of
east.
I declined to perplex myself any more with the
problem, or in trying to understand what the woman
meant, that the river we had ascended for 600 miles
from the Congo flowed to the Nyanza. The only
solution possible was that there were two Ituris, one
flowing to the Congo, the other into the Nile basin ;
but both she and her brother stoutly maintained that
there was only one Ituri.
302 IN DARKEST AFHICA.
1887. We continued on our journey, following a path which
dipped down into the valley. We presently stood on
the banks of the stream, and the solution was at hand.
It was the main Ituri River, flowing south of west ! We
are all wise after the event.
There was a clumsy, misshapen canoe in the river,
and as Saat Tato was an expert canoeist, he was
detailed to ferry the caravan over for a reward of
20 dollars. The river was 125 yards broad, about seven
feet average depth, with a current of two knots. It
was a cataract of this stream whose low thunder we
had heard near Mbiri.
The natives of Abunguma, on the left side of the
river, watched our operations from a hill- top a mile
off, with an air of confidence which seemed to say,
" All right, friends. When you are through, you will
have to reckon with us." Nothing could be done in
such an open land as this without <: all the world
knowing it." The Abunguma shook their spears bravely
at us ; the Babusesse occupied every prominent point
on the right side of the river. It appeared once or
twice as if our manhood was about to be tested on an
important scale. There was the comfort, however, that,
knowing the natives to be alert and active, we could
not be surprised on a pasture slope where the grass
around the camp was but three inches high.
Since we had entered Ibwiri we had fared luxuriously
for Africa. We had enjoyed meat and milk daily.
We had lived on fowls, young and dried beans, sugar-
cane, sweet potatoes, yams, colocassia, tomatoes, brinjalls,
melons, plantains, and bananas. On the people the
effect was wonderful. They were men in every respect
superior both in body and spirit to the gaunt and craven
wretches whom the Arab slaves of Ipoto scourged and
speared without more than a mild protest. On the
whites also the effect had been most beneficial. Though
spare, we were no longer meagre and haggard ; a little
wine would have completed the cure.
A gentle grassy slope, on the next morning, took us,
in the course of an hour, to the crown of one of those
SUSPENSION BRIDGE ACROSS THE EAST ITURL 303
long undulations so characteristic of this region. It
furnished us with another all-round view peculiarly Dec * 5 -
interesting to us. Our intended direction was south-
east, as we were bearing for a high conical peak at
the end of a range of grass-covered mountains, which
afterwards became known to us as Mazamboni's Peak.
We dipped down into delightful vales, watered by cool
and clear brooks. Close to these were small clusters of
native homesteads, with their fields of unripe sorghum,
sweet potato, and sugar-cane patches, &c. But the
homesteads were all abandoned, and their owners were
observing us from the sky-line of every superior hill.
Finally we passed an empty cattle zeriba, the sight of
which was loudly cheered, and cries of " Ay, the master
is right, and every word conies to pass. First will come
the grass-land, then the cattle w r ith brave men to defend
them, then hills, then the Nyanza, and lastly the white
man. The grass-land we have seen, here is the cattle
yard, yonder are the mountains, the brave men and the
Nyanza and the white man we shall yet see, please
God."
We bore on our way to a valley through which
another river rushed and roared. On our left was a rugged
line of rocks that rose in huge and detached masses, on
the top of which a dozen men might be seated comfort-
ably. Connecting these huge rock masses was a lower
line of rocks, more uniform, forming the bare spine
of a ridge. At some places we passed so close to the
base of this hill that we were within easy stone's throw
of the summits. But though we were prepared for a
demonstration, the natives remained singularly quiet.
The path we followed halted at a suspension bridge
across a third " Ituri," which had better be distinguished
as East Ituri to prevent misunderstanding. This last
river was thirty yards wide, deep and swift as a rapid.
Spanned by a bridge of such fragile make that we could
only pass one at a time in safety, it required one
hundred and twenty seconds for a single person to cross
the ninety-feet span, and the caravan was not on the
other side entirely before 6 P.M. As the crossing was in
304 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. a position of great disadvantage, riflemen had been on
6 - the look-out all day.
In the afternoon we saw a fine black cow and her calf
issue out of a defile in the rocky ridge just described,
and clamours of " Beef, beef ay, beef, how are you ?
we have not seen you since we were young ! " rose loud.
The Abunguma had hidden their cattle among the rocky
hills, and these specimens had probably been refractory.
SUSPENSION BRIDGE ACROSS THE E. ITURI.
Leaving the picturesque valley of East Ituri on the
8th, we ascended an easy slope to the top of a hill where
we obtained a long view of the crooked and narrow
valley of the East Ituri, and were able to observe that
it came from an east-south-east direction. Shortly after,
POPULOUS SETTLEMENTS. 305
something more like a plain opened before us, extending iss
over a score of miles to the south, bordered on the north Dec<
by the stony ridge and valley we had just left behind, ^um
while to the eastward rose Mazamboni's mountain range,
whose northern end, conspicuous by the tall peak, was
our present objective point.
At 9.30 A.M. we had approached several miles nearer
this mountain range, arid before descending into the
valley of a streamlet flowing northward, we observed
with wonder that the whole intervening space as far as
the mountains was one mass of plantations, indicative of
a powerful population. Here then, we thought, " will
be the tug of war. The Abunguma have left their
settlements in order to join this numerous tribe, and
meet us with a fitting reception." No more populous
settlements had been seen since we had departed from
Bangala on the Congo. A suspicion that these were
among the confederation of tribes who hemmed in the
poor anxious governor of Equatoria also crept into our
minds, as we looked upon this huge display of numbers
and evidence of wealth and security.
With the view of not provoking the natives, and of
preventing the incorrigible looters of 'the column from
the commission of mischief, we took a south-east track
to skirt the district. We were able to steer our course
between the plantations, so that no cover was afforded to
an enemy. At 11.30 we had reached the eastern ex-
tremity of the district, and then rested for the noon halt
and refreshment, under the shadow of a tree whose
branches rustled before a strong cool breeze from the
Nyanza.
Resuming the march at 1 P.M. we entered the depths
of banana plantations, marvelling at the great industry
evinced, and the neatness of the cultivated plots. The
conical homesteads were large and partitioned within, as
we observed while passing through a few open doorways,
by screens of cane grass. Every village was cleanly
swept, as though they had been specially prepared for
guests. Each banana stalk was loaded with bananas,
the potato fields were extensive, the millet fields stretched
VOL. i. u
306 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. away on either side by hundreds of acres, and the many
granaries that had lately been erected manifested ex-
pectations of a bountiful harvest.
We finally emerged from the corn-fields without being
once annoyed. We thought the natives had been cowed
by exaggerated reports of our power, or they had been
disconcerted by our cautious manoeuvre of leaving a fair
open margin between the line of march and the groves ;
but much to our surprise we encountered no opposition,
though large masses of the aborigines covered the
eminences bordering our route.
The broad and well-trodden path towards the moun-
tains which we were now rapidly approaching bisected an
almost level plain, three miles wide, rich with pasture
grass in flower. The Eastern Ituri was not far off on
our left flank, and on the other side of it another
populous settlement was in view.
At 3 P.M. w r e arrived at the base of the Mountain of
the Peak. Many of its highest points were crowned
with clusters of huts. The cotes of the natives were in
the folds of the mountain fronting us. The people
gathered in large groups on the nearest summits, and
when we were near enough the shouts of defiance were
uttered with loud and strident voices. We estimated
the average height of the hills nearest to us at about
800 feet above the plain, and as the slopes were par-
ticularly steep we judged their distance to be between
800 and 1000 yards from us.
Much to our pleasure and relief the path, instead of
ascending those steep slopes, skirted their base, and
turned east, pursuing the direction we wished being
now in, North Lat. 1 25' 30". A valley unfolded to
our view as we rounded the corner of the Peak Range,
with a breadth of one to two miles wide, which was
clothed with luxuriant sorghum ripening for the sickle.
On our right, rising immediately above us, was the north
side of Mazamboni's range ; to our left, the ground,
hidden by crops of grain, sloped gradually to a rapid
branch of the East Ituri, and beyond it rose, an
easy slope to a broad horse-shoe shaped grassy
MAZAMBONTS PEAK AND NZERA KUM. 309
ridge, studded with homesteads, green with millet and 1887.
corn, and rich in banana groves. One sweeping view of Dec - 8 *
our surroundings impressed us with the prosperity of the ^maT
tribe.
On entering this rich crop-bearing valley a chorus of
war-cries pealing menacingly above our heads caused us
to look up. The groups had already become more
numerous, until there were probably 300 warriors with
shield, spear, and bow, shaking their flashing weapons,
gesturing with shield and spear, crying wrathfully at us
in some language. Waxing more ungovernable in action
they made a demonstration to descend ; they altered
their intentions, returned to the summit, and kept pace
with us we along the base, they along the crest of the
fore hills, snarling and yelling, shouting and threatening,
which we took to be expressive of hate to us, and
encouragement to those in the valley.
Issuing out of the first series of cornfields, we heard
the war-cries of the valley natives, and comprehended
that they were taking position in favourable localities
the hill natives warning and guiding them. It was now
near 4 P.M., a time to pick out camp, to make ready for
the night in the midst of a population overwhelming in
its numbers. Fortunately, close at hand rose the steep
hill of Nzera Kum with a spur, whose level top rose a
hundred feet above the general face of the valley. It
stood like an islet in the valley, distant from the river
500 yards, and from the base of Mazamboni's range
200 yards. From the crest of Nzera Kum we could
command a view east and west of all the northern face
of the high range, and away over the summit lines of
the horse-shoe ridge, across the Ituri branch. Fifty rifles
could hold a camp on such a position against a thousand.
We hurried up towards it, the warriors on the range
slopes converging downward as if divining our intentions ;
a mass of noisy belligerents hastening towards the line
of march from the river banks. The scouts in the
advance fired a few solitary shots to clear the front, and
we succeeded in reaching the islet hill and scrambled up.
The loads were thrown down, a few picked skirmishers
310 IX DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. were ordered to either flank of the column to assist the
Dec. 8. rearguard, others were directed to form a zeriba around
suma!" the crown of the spur ; a body of thirty men was sent
to secure water from the river. In half an hour the
column was safe on the hill, the zeriba was near com-
pletion, there was water for the thirsty, and we had a
few minutes to draw breath and to observe from our
commanding elevation what were our surroundings.
The bird's-eye view was not a bit encouraging. About
fifty villages were sprinkled through the valley ; plan-
tation after plantation, field after field, village after
village met our vision in every direction. What lay
on the mountains we did not know. The swarms
of lusty-voiced natives on the slopes now numbered
over 800. The air seemed filled with the uproar of the
shouts.
The mountaineers appeared disposed to try conclusions
at once. We were fatigued with the march of 1 3 miles ;
the hot sun and weight of burdens had weakened the
physical powers of the men. Some of the best, how-
ever, were picked out and sent to meet the mountaineers,
while we stood and watched to weigh the temper of our
opponents. Four of the scouts were foremost. An
equal number of the mountaineers, not a whit loth for
the encounter, bounded gallantly to meet them. They
intuitively felt that the courage of our four men was
not of the highest order. They approached to within
100 yards of them, and prepared their bows against the
rifles. Our men delivered their fire harmlessly, and
then backed ; the mountaineers advanced, with fingers
on their bow-strings. Our four men fled, while a
hundred voices from our camp, looking down upon the
scene, execrated them. This was a bad beginning for
our side ; the natives accepted it as a favourable omen
to them, and yelled triumphantly. To check this glow,
our riflemen sought cover, and seriously annoyed the
natives. Some at the extremity of the hill of Nzera Kum
did execution among the mountaineers on the slope of
the range opposite, at 400 yards distance ; others crept
down into the valley towards the river, and obtained a
"BE STRONG, AND OF A GOOD COURAGE." 311
triumph for us ; others, again, working round the base 1887.
of Nzera Kum, effected a diversion in our favour. Saat Dec ; 8 -
Tato, our hunter, carried away a cow from her owners, L S"^ S
and we thus obtained a taste of beef after eleven months'
abstinence. As night fell, natives and strangers sought
their respective quarters, both anticipating a busy day
on the morrow.
Before turning in for the night, I resumed my reading
of the Bible as usual. I had already read the book
through from beginning to end once, and was now
at Deuteronomy for the second reading, and I came
unto the verse wherein Moses exhorts Joshua in those
fine lines, " Be strong and of a good courage ; fear not,
nor be afraid of them : for the Lord thy God, He it is
that doth go with thee ; He will not fail thee, nor
forsake thee."
I continued my reading, and at the end of the chapter
closed the book, and from Moses my mind travelled at
once to Mazamboni. Was it great fatigue, incipient
ague, or an admonitory symptom of ailment, or a shade
of spiteful feeling against our cowardly four, and a
vague sense of distrust that at some critical time my
loons would fly ? We certainly were in the presence of
people very different from the forest natives. In the
open our men had not been tested as they were to-day,
and what my officers and self had seen of them was not
encouraging. At any rate, my mind was occupied
with a keener sense of the danger incurred by us in
adventuring with such a small force of cowardly porters
to confront the tribes of the grass land than I remember
it on any previous occasion. It seemed to me now that
I had a more thorough grasp of what might be expected.
Whether it followed a larger visual view of land and
population, or that I w^as impressed by the volume of
human voices, whose uproar yet seemed to sound in my
ears, I know not. But a voice appeared to say, " Be
strong, and of a good courage ; fear not, nor be afraid
of them." I could almost have sworn I heard the voice.
I began to argue with it. Why do you adjure me to
abandon the Mission ? I cannot run if I would. To
suma.
312 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
IBS?, retreat would be far more fatal than advance ; therefore
your encouragement is unnecessary. It replied, never-
theless, " Be strong and of a good courage. Advance,
and be confident, for I will give this people and this
land unto thee. I will not fail thee nor forsake thee ;
fear not, nor be dismayed."
Still all this in strict confidence before I slept
I may add that though I certainly never felt fitter for
a fight, it struck me, that both sides were remark-
ably foolish, and about to engage in what I conceived to
be an unnecessary contest. We did not know even the
name of the land or of the people, and they were equally
ignorant of our name and of our purpose and motives.
I sketched out my plans for the morrow, adjured the
sentries to keep strict watch, and in sleep became soon
oblivious of this Mazamboni lord of the mountains
and plains.
December 9th was a halt. In the morning we com-
pleted our thorn-bush fence, distributed cartridges, and
examined rifles. By 9 o'clock the chill of early day
retired before the warmth of a hot sun, and shortly after
the natives mustered in imposing numbers. War-horns,
with the weird notes heard in Usoga and Uganda in
1875, sounded the gathering, and over twenty drums
boomed from each mountain top. There were shouts
and cries flying in currents from mountain to valley,
and back again, for we were quite surrounded. About
II A.M. some few natives descended close enough for
one Fetteh, a man of Unyoro, to distinguish what was
said, and he exchanged a hot abuse with them, until
there was quite a wordy war. Hearing that one of our
people understood the language, I directed the wrathful
tongues in the interests of peace, and a more amicable
language resulted.
" We on our side," was said, " only fight in defence.
You assail us while quietly passing through the land.
Would it not be better to talk to each other, and try to
understand one another first, and then, if we cannot
agree, fight."
" True, those are wise words," a man replied. " Tell
FRIENDLY INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES. 813
us who you are. Where you are from, and where you 1887.
Dec. 9.
suma.
are going.
" We are of Zanzibar, from the sea, and our chief is a
white man. We are bound for the Nyanza of Unyoro."
" If you have a white man with you, let us see him,
and we shall believe you."
Lieutenant Stairs promptly stepped out of the zeriba
and was introduced by Fetteh.
" Now you tell us who you are," said Fetteh. " What
land is this ? Who is your chief ? And how far is the
Nyanza ? "
" This land is Undussuma, the chief is Mazamboni.
We are Wazamboni. The Ruweru (Nyanza) is reached
in two days. It will take you five days. It lies east.
There is only one road, and you cannot miss it."
This began the exchange of friendly intercourse.
Strangerhood was broken. We then learned that there
were two chiefs in Undussuma, one of whom would not
be averse to peace, and exchange of friendly gifts, if it
were agreeable to us. We gladly assented, and several
hours were passed without a hostile cry being heard, or
a shot fired, except at the river, the natives on whose
shores were obstinate, and declined listening to anything
but war proposals.
In the afternoon a message came from Mazamboni
saying he would like to see the pattern and quality of
our monies. We sent two yards of scarlet uniform cloth,
and a dozen brass rods, and a promise was given that
early next morning the chief himself would appear and
go through the ceremony of brotherhood with me.
The next day we were refreshed after an undisturbed
night, and fondly indulged in anticipations that in a few
hours, perhaps, our camp would be filled with friendly
natives. We had been requested not to depart until a
return gift should arrive from Mazamboni. We accord-
ingly had resolved on another day's halt. The morning
was still raw and cold, for we were 4,235 feet above the
sea. A mist covered the tall mountain tops, and a
slight drizzle had set in, which excused our friends from
a too early appearance ; but at the third hour the mist
suma.
314 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. cleared away, and the outline of the entire range was
10 - clear against a pale blue sky. Lieutenant Stairs, Mr.
Jephson, and myself, were out at the extreme west end
of the spur enjoying the splendid view, admiring the
scenery, and wondering when such a beautiful land
would become the homesteads of civilized settlers.
Stairs thought that it resembled New Zealand, and said
that he would not mind possessing a ranche here. He
actually went so far as to locate it, and pointed out the
most desirable spot. " On that little hill I would build
my house " " Shebang " he called it. I wonder if that
is a New Zealand term for a villa " There I would herd
my cattle ; my sheep could browse on the mountain
slope behind, and
But meantime the natives had appeared on the crests
of the mountain in lengthy columns, converging towards
a common centre a butt end of a truncated hill a
thousand yards in an air line from where we stood, and
a voice like that of a mob orator, clear and harmonious,
broke on our ear. It proceeded from a man who, with
a few companions, had descended to about 300 feet
above the valley. He was ten minutes speaking, and
Fetteh had been brought to listen and translate.
Fetteh said that he commanded peace in the name of
the king ; but strange to say, no sooner had the man
concluded his speech than loud, responsive yells rose
from the valley in a hideous and savage clamour, and
then from every mountain top, and from the slopes
there was a re-echo of the savage outburst.
We surmised that such forceful yelling could not
signal a peace, but rather war ; and in order to make
sure, sent Fetteh down into the valley below the speaker
to ask him. The replies from the natives left us no
room to doubt. The two sounds Kanwana, " peace," and
Kurw^ana, " war," were so similar that they had occasioned
Fetteh 's error.
" We do not want your friendship," they cried. " We
are coming down to you shortly to drive you out of
your camp with our herdsmen's staffs." And a
treacherous fellow, who had crawled under cover of low
WE DISPENSE THE NATfVES. 315
bush, came near causing us a severe loss our interpreter iss?.
especially having an exceedingly narrow escape. Fetteh Dec - 10<
picked up the arrows and brought them to us, and ^^"
delivered his new*.
There was then no alternative but to inflict an exem-
plary lesson upon them ; and we prepared to carry it
out without losing a moment of time, and with the
utmost vigour, unless checked by proffers of amity.
The companies were mustered, and fifty rifles were led
out by Lieutenant Stairs towards those obstinate and
fierce fellows on the other side of the Ituri branch. A
party of thirty rifles were sent under Mr. Jephson to
skirmish up the slopes to the left ; and twenty picked men
were sent with Uledi to make a demonstration to the right.
Rashid was ordered with ten men to the top of Nzera- "
Kum to guard against surprise from that quarter.
Jephson and Uledi would be marching to their positions
unobserved by the mountaineers, because the crowns of
the forehills would obstruct the view, and would ap-
proach to them within 200 yards without being seen,
while Lieutenant Stairs' company, being further out in
the valley, would absorb their attention.
In a few minutes Stairs' company was hotly engaged.
The natives received our men with cool determination
for a few minutes, and shot their arrows in literal showers ;
but the Lieutenant, perceiving that their coolness rose
from the knowledge that there was a considerable stream
intervening between them and his company, cheered his
men to charge across the river. His men obeyed him,
and as they ascended the opposite bank opened a
withering fire which in a few seconds broke up the nest
of refractory and turbulent fellows who had cried out so
loudly for war. The village was taken with a rush and
the banana plantations scoured. The natives broke out
into the open on a run, and fled far northward.
Lieutenant Stairs then collected his men, set fire to the
village., and proceeded to the assault of other settlements,
rattling volleys from the company announcing the
resistance they met.
Meanwhile, Uledi's party of chosen men had discovered
sum a.
316 Itf DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. a path leading up the mountain along a spur, and after
ascending 500 feet, led his men up into view on the
right flank of the mob observing and cheering their
countrymen in the valley. The Winchesters were worked
most handsomely. At the same time Mr. Jephson's
party came out of the left ravine, and together they had
such a disastrous effect on the nerves of the natives that
they fled furiously up the slopes, Uledi and his men
chasing them.
Mr. Jephson, after seeing them in full flight,
faced eastward, and pushed on for two miles, clearing
every inhabitant out. By 1 P.M. all our men were
in camp, with only one man slightly wounded. Every
man had behaved wonderfully well ; even the four
cowards, who had been marked men, had distinguished
themselves.
At 2 P.M., the natives in the valley having returned,
each party was despatched once again. Stairs led his
men across the Ituri branch, and followed the running
fugitives far northward, then veered sharply round to
join Jephson, who had continued his way eastward.
Uledi's scouts were sent up to the very summit of
the mountain range ; but on observing the immense
number of homesteads that dotted it, he prudently
halted.
Until the afternoon the contest continued ; the natives
were constantly on the run, charging or retreating. By
evening not one was in sight, and the silence around
our camp was significant of the day's doings. The
inhabitants were on the mountains or far removed east-
ward and northward. In the valley around us there
was not a hut left standing to be a cover during the
night. The lesson, we felt, was not completed. We
should have to return by that route. In the natural
course of things, if we met many tribes of the quality of
this, we should lose many men, and if we left them in
the least doubt of our ability to protect ourselves, we
should have to repeat our day's work. It was, therefore,
far more merciful to finish the affair thoroughly before
leaving a tribe in unwhipped insolence in our rear.
PEACE ARRANGED.
317
The natives must have entertained an idea that we
could not fight outside our bush fence, which accounts
for their tall talk of driving us out with sticks, and that
they were safe on the mountains. We were compelled
to root out the idea that they could harm us in any
way.
A cow neglected by her owner was burnt in one of
the villages close by, and furnished us with a second
limited ration of roast beef.
On the llth it rained again during the early morning,
which kept us indoors until 10 A.M. Some natives
having then come out to demonstrate their hostility on
the mountains, Stairs, Jephson and Uledi
led their men up the mountain slopes in
three separate small columns to the attack,
and made a successful tour among their
stronghold. A small flock of goats was
captured, and distributed to the men, and
our experiences of this day satisfied the
natives that they had nothing to gain by
fighting.
At one time it appeared as though the
day would end with reconciliation, for a
native stood on a high hill above our
position after all had reached camp, and
announced that he had been sent by
Mazamboni to say that he received our
gifts, but that he had been prevented from
visiting us according to promise by the
clamour of his young men, who insisted on fighting.
But now, as many of them had been killed, he was
ready to pay tribute, and be a true friend in future.
We replied that we were agreeable to peace and friend-
ship with them, but as they had mocked us, kept our
peace presents, and then scornfully called us women,
they must purchase peace with cattle or goats, and if
they held up grass in their hands they could approach
without fear.
It should be mentioned that w r hen the warriors de-
scended the mountain slopes for the fight, every little
1887.
Dec. 10.
Undus-
suma.
SHIELD OF
EDGE OF
PLAINS.
318
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
Undus-
suuia.
1887. squad of men was accompanied by a large hound, of
ef " n> somewhat slender build, but courageous, and prompt to
attack.
The arms of the Wazamboni consisted of long bows
five and a half feet long, and arrows twenty-eight
inches long, besides a long sharp spear. Their shields
were long and narrow generally, but there were many of
the true Uganda type. The arrows were cruelly barbed,
and the spear was similar to that of Karagwe, Uhha,
Urundi, and Ihangiro.
VIEW OF THE SOUTH END OF ALBERT NYANZA. (See page 306.)
CHAPTER XII.
ARRIVAL AT LAKE ALBERT, AND OUR RETURN TO IBWIRI.
We are further annoyed by the natives Their villages fired Gavira's
village We keep the natives at bay Plateau of Unyoro in view
Night attack by the natives The village of Katonza's Parley with
the natives No news of the Pasha Our supply of cartridges We
consider our position Lieutenant Stairs converses with the people
of Kasenya Island The only sensible course left us Again attacked
by natives Scenery on the lake's shore We climb a mountain A
rich discovery of grain The rich valley of Undussuma Our return
journey to Ibwiri The construction of Fort Bodo.
ON the 12th December we left camp at dawn without issi.
disturbance, or hearing a single voice, and up to 9 A.M. '
it did not appear as if anybody was astir throughout
the valley. Our road led E. by 8. and dipped down into
ravines, and narrow valleys, down which its tributaries
from the mountain range and its many gorges flowed
under depths of jungle, bush, and reed-cane. Villages
were seen nestling amid abundance, and we left them
unmolested in the hope that the wild people might read
that when left alone we were an extremely inoffensive '
band of men. But at nine o'clock, the chill of the morning
having disappeared, we heard the first war-cries, and traced
them to a large group of villages that crowned a detached
line of hills occupying the foreground of the Undussuma
range. Perceiving that we continued our march without
appearing to notice them, they advanced boldly and
hovered on our right flank and rear.
By 11 A.M. there were two separate bands of natives
who followed us very persistently. One had come from
the eastward, the other was formed out of the population
of the villages in the valley that we had left undamaged
and intact.
320 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
is*?. By noon these bands had increased into numerous and
frantic mobs, and some of them cried out, " We will
prove to you before night that we are men, and every
one of you shall perish to-day."
At this hour, refreshed by our halt, we resumed the
march through a grassy wilderness. There were no
villages in view on either hand, but the mobs followed
us, now and then making demonstrations, and annoying
us with their harsh cries and menaces. An expert shot
left the line of march, and wounded two of them at a
range of 400 yards. This silenced them for awhile, as
though they were absorbed in wondering what missile
could inflict injuries at such a distance. But soon their
numbers received fresh accessions, and their audacity
became more marked. The rear-guard band presently
were heard firing, and possibly with effect ; at any rate
it was clear they had received a check.
Finally, at 3.30, we came in view of the Bavira villages
the chief of whom is called Gavira situated on an
open plain and occupying both banks of a deep and
precipitous ravine hollowed out of the clay by a con-
siderable tributary of the East Ituri. We in the front
halted on the eastern bank, as the natives too tardy
to effect anything came rushing down to prevent the
crossing. Loads were at once dropped, skirmishers were
despatched from the advance to recross the river, and to
assist the rear guard, and a smart scene of battle-play
occurred, at the end of which the natives retreated on
the full run. To punish them for four hours' persecution
of us we turned about and set fire to every hut on either
bank, then reforming we hastened up a steep hilly
plateau, that rose 200 feet above the plain, to meet the
natives who had gathered to oppose us. Long, however,
before we could reach the summit they abandoned their
position and left us to occupy a village in peace. It
being now a late hour we camped, and our first duty was
to render our quarters safe against a night attack.
It should be observed that up to the moment of firing
the villages, the fury of the natives seemed to be in-
creasing, but the instant the flames were seen devouring
GAVIEAS VILLAGE. 321
their homes the fury ceased, by which we learned that
fire had a remarkable sedative influence on their nerves. Dec> 12<
The village of Gavira's, wherein we slept that night,
was 4,657 feet above the sea. It had been a fine day
for travel, and a S.E. breeze was most cooling. Without
it we should have suffered from the great heat. As the
sun set it became very cold ; by midnight the tempera-
ture was 60. We had travelled nine miles, and mostly
all complained of fatigue from the marching and constant
excitement.
On the 13th we set off easterly a little after dawn, in
order that we might cover some distance before the
aborigines ventured out into the cold raw air of the
morning. The short pasture grass was beaded with
dew, and wet as with rain. The rear guard, after dis-
arranging our night defences that the natives might not
understand the manner of them, soon overtook us, and
we left the district in compact order ready for fresh
adventures. Until the third hour of the morning we
were permitted to travel amid scenes of peaceful stillness.
We enjoyed the prospects, had time to note the features
of the great plain north of East Ituri, and to admire the
multitude of hilly cones that bounded the northern
horizon, to observe how the lines of conical hills massed
themselves into a solid and unbroken front to the east and
west ; how to the south of us the surface of the land was a
series of great waves every hollow of which had its own
particular stream ; and how, about five miles off, the
mountain range continued from Undussuma East to the
Balegga country, whose summits we knew so well, formed
itself into baylike curves wherein numerous settlements
found water and sweet grass for their cattle and moisture
for their millet fields, and finally prolonged itself, rounding
northward until its extremity stood east of us. Hence
we observed that the direction we travelled would take
us before many hours between the northern and southern
ranges, to the top of a saddle that appeared to connect
them. A group of villages situated on the skyline of
this saddle was our objective point at present, until we
could take further bearings thence.
VOL T. v
322 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. But at 9 A.M. the natives began to stir and look
around. Every feature of the wide landscape being
n ' then free from mist and fog. Our long serpent-like line
of men was soon detected and hailed with war-cries,
uttered with splendid force of lungs, that drew hundreds
of hostile eyes burning with ferocity and hate upon us.
Village after village was passed by us untouched, but
this, as we experienced the day before, they did not place
to our credit, but rather debited us with pusillanimity,
all reports of their neighbours notwithstanding. We felt
it in our veins that we were being charged with weakness.
A crowd of fifty natives stood aside, 300 yards from our
path, observant of our conduct. They saw us defile
through their settlements with kindly regard for their
property, and eyes fixed straight before us, intent on our
own business of travel only. Far from accepting this as
a proof that there was some virtue in us, they closed
behind the column, loudly and imperiously summoned
their countrymen to gather together and surround us a
call their countrymen appeared only too willing to obey,
As soon as they deemed their numbers strong enough to
take the offensive, they charged on the rear guard, which
act was instantly responded to by good practice with
rifles.
Every half-hour there was a stream at the bottom of
its own valley, and a breadth of cane-brake on either
side of the brook, which required great caution to keep
the impulsive natives at bay.
That group of villages on the skyline already men-
tioned, connecting the now converging lines of hills
to north and south of us, became more and more dis-
tinct as we steadily pressed on eastward, and I began
to feel a presentiment that before another hour was
passed, we should see the Albert Nyanza. But as
though there was some great treasure in our front, or as
if Emin Pasha and his garrison found himself in the
position of Gordon during his last hours at Khartoum,
and these were the beleaguering hosts, the natives waxed
bolder and more determined, increased in numbers
faster, the war-cries were incessantly vociferated from
WE KEEP THE NATIVES AT SAY. 323
every eminence, groups of men became mobs, and issi.
finally we became conscious that a supreme effort was Dec - 13>
about to be made by them. We cast our eyes about J
and saw each elevation black with masses of men, while
the broad and rolling plain showed lines of figures, like
armies of ants travelling towards us.
At 11 A.M. we were near the crest of the last ridge
intervening between us and the saddle which we were
aiming for, when we caught a view of a small army
advancing along a road, which, if continued, would
soon cross our track on the other side of the stream
that issued from this ridge. The attacking point I
felt sure would be a knoll above the source of the
stream. The advance guard was about a hundred
yards from it, and these were ordered when abreast
of the knoll to wheel sharply to the right, and stack
goods on its summit, and the word was passed to
close files.
As we arrived at the summit of the knoll, the head of
the native army, streaming thickly, was at the foot of
it on the other side, and without an instant's hesitation
both sides began the contest simultaneously, but the
rapid fire of the Winchesters was altogether too much
for them, for, great as was the power of the united voices,
the noise of the Winchesters deafened and confused
them, while the fierce hissing of the storm of bullets
paralysed the bravest. The advance guard rushed down
the slopes towards them, and in a few seconds the
natives turned their backs and bounded away with the
speed of antelopes. Our men pursued them for about a
mile, but returned at the recall, a summons they obeyed
with the precision of soldiers at a review, which pleased
me more even than the gallantry they had displayed.
The greatest danger in reality with half-disciplined men
is the inclination to follow the chase, without regard to
the design the enemy may have in view by sudden
flight. It frequently happens that the retreat is effected
for a ruse, and is often practised in Uganda. On this
occasion forty men were chasing 500, while 1,500 natives
at least were certainly surveying the field on a hill to
324 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. the right of us, and a similar number was posted to the
' left f US '
Again we re-formed our ranks, and marched forward
in close order as before, but at 12.30 halted for refresh-
ments, with a pretty wide circle around us now, clear of
noisy and yelling natives. Our noon halt permitted
them to collect their faculties, but though they were
undoubtedly sobered by the events of the morning they
still threatened us with imposing numbers of the Balegga,
Bavira, and Wabiassi tribes.
After an hour's rest the line of march was resumed.
We found an exceedingly well-trodden path, and that it
was appreciated was evident from the rapid and elastic
tread of the column. Within fifteen minutes we gained
the brow of the saddle, or rather plateau, as it turned out
to be, and, about twenty-five miles away, we saw a dark
blue and uniform line of table-land, lifted up into the
clouds and appearing portentously lofty. The men
vented a murmur of discontented surprise at the sight
of it. I knew it was Unyoro, that between us and that
great and blue table-land was an immense and deep gulf,
and that at the bottom of this gulf was the Albert. For
there seemed to be nothing else before us, neither hill,
ridge, or elevation, but that distant immense dark blue
mass ; the eastern slopes of the northern and southern
ranges dipped down steeply as it were into a gulf or
profoundly deep valley. Our people, on viewing the
plateau of Unyoro in the distance, cried out in a vexed
manner " Mashallah ! but this Nyanza keeps going
further and further away from us ; " but I cheered them
up with, " Keep your eyes open, boys ! You may see the
Nyanza any minute now," which remark, like many
others tending to encourage them, was received with
grunts of unbelief.
But every step we now took proved that we were
approaching an unusually deep valley, or the Nyanza,
for higher and higher rose the Unyoro plateau into view,
lower and lower descended the slopes on either hand of
our road, until at last all eyes rested on a grey cloud, or
what is it, mist ? Nay, it is the Nyanza sleeping in the
FIRST VIEW OF THE ALBERT NYANZA. 327
haze, for, looking to the north-eastward it was the iss?.
colour of the ocean. The men gazed upon the lake fully Dec - 13 '
two minutes before they realised that what they looked NywlwL
upon was water, and then they relieved their feelings
with cheers and enthusiastic shouts.
We continued our pace a few minutes longer, until we
stood on the verge of the descent from the plateau, and
near a small village perched on this exposed situation we
made a short halt to take bearings, inspect aneroids, and
reflect a little upon our next step.
Though the people were shouting and dancing, and
thronging around me with congratulations for having
" hit the exact spot so well," a chill came over me, as
I thought of the very slight chance there was, in such a
country as this, of finding a canoe fit to navigate the
rough waters of the Albert. With my glass I scruti-
nized anxiously the distant shore of the Lake, but I
could not see any canoe, neither could I see a single tree
in all the long stretch of slope and extended plain of a
size suitable for a canoe, and the thought that, after all,
our forced march and continual fighting and sacrifice of
life would be in vain, struck me for the first time, even
while upon every man's lips was the pious ejaculation,
" Thank God."
And yet it was just possible we might be able to buy
a canoe with brass rods and some red cloth. It would
be too hard if our long travels hither were to be quite in
vain.
The scene I looked upon was very different to what I
had anticipated. I had circumnavigated the Victoria
Nyanza and the Tanganika, and I had viewed the Muta
Nzige from a plateau somewhat similar to this, and
canoes were procurable on either Lake ; and on the Victoria
and Tanganika it would not be difficult, after a little
search, to find a tree large enough for cutting out a
canoe. But I saw here about twenty miles of most
barren slopes, rugged with great rocks, and furrowed
with steep ravines and watercourses, whose banks showed
a thin fringe of miserable bush, and between them were
steeply descending sharp and long spurs, either covered
328 IK DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. with rocky and clayey debris or tall green grass. Be-
13> tween the base of this lengthy fall of slope and the Lake
Nyanza. was a plain about five or six miles in breadth, and about
twenty miles long, most pleasant to look upon from the
great altitude we were on. It resembled a well-wooded
park land, but the trees spread out their branches
too broadly to possess the desirable stems. They
appeared to me to be more like acacia, and thorn-
trees and scrub, which would be utterly useless for our
purpose.
Our aneroids indicated an altitude of 5,000 feet. The
islet marked on Mason's chart as near Kavalli bore E.S.E.,
magnetic, about six miles from our position. Laying
Colonel Mason's chart of the Albert Nyanza before us, we
compared it with what was spread so largely and grandly
over 2,500 feet below us, and we were forced to bear
witness to the remarkable accuracy of his survey. Here
and there some trifling islets and two or three small in-
lets of the Lake into that singular sunken plain which
formed the boundary of the Lake as its southerly extremity
were observed as omissions.
I had often wondered at Sir Samuel Baker's descrip-
tion of the Albert Nyanza's extension towards the south-
west, perhaps oftener after Colonel Mason's mysteriously
brusque way of circumscribing its " illimitability," but I
can feel pure sympathy with the discoverer now, despite
the terrible " cutting off" to which it has been subjected.
For the effect upon all of us could not have been greater
if the Albert stretched to Khartoum. Whether limited
or unlimited, the first view of water and mountain is
noble, and even inspiring. Even at its extremity the
Lake has a spacious breadth, but as we follow the lines
of its mountain banks the breadth widens grandly, the
silver colour of its shallow head soon changes into the
deep azure of ocean, the continuing expanding breadth,
immense girdle of mountains and pale sky, lose their
outlines, and become fused into an indefinite blueness at
the sea-horizon north-eastward, through which we may
vainly seek a limit.
Our point of observation was in N. Lat. 1. 23'. 00".
NATIVE HOSTILITY NEAR THE NYANZA. 329
The extreme end of the eastern end of the lake bore S.E. iss?.
magnetic, and the extreme western end bore S.E. and Dec - 13>
S.E. by S. Between the two extremities there were five Nyanza
inlets, one of which reached two miles further south than
any of those observed points.
The table-land of Unyoro maintained an almost uniform
level as far as we could see, its terminable point being
cut off from view by a large shoulder of mountain, that
thrust itself forward from the western range. South-
ward of the lake and between these opposing heights
that of the table-land of Unyoro on the east, and that of
the table-land on the west extended a low plain which
formerly, but not recently, must have been inundated
by the waters of the lake, but now was dry firm ground,
clothed with sere grass, gently rising as it receded south,
and finally producing scrubby wood, acacia and thorn,
like the terrace directly below us.
After a halt of about twenty minutes, we commenced
the descent down the slopes of the range. Before the
rearguard under Lieutenant Stairs had left the spot, the
natives had gathered in numbers equal to our own, and
before the advance had descended 500 feet, they had
begun to annoy the rearguard in a manner that soon
provoked a steady firing. We below could see them
spread out like skirmishers on both flanks, and hanging
to the rear in a long line up the terribly steep and
galling path.
While they shot their arrows, and crept nearer to
their intended victims, they cried, " Ku-la-la heh lelo?"
" Where will you sleep to-night ? Don't you know
you are surrounded ? We have you now where we
wanted you."
Our men were not a whit slow in replying, " Wherever
we sleep, you will not dare come near ; and if you have
got us where you wanted us to be, why not come on at
once ? "
Though the firing was brisk, there was but little hurt
done ; the ground was adverse to steadiness, and on
our side only one was wounded with an arrow, but the
combat kept both sides lively and active. Had we been
330 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. unburdened and fresh, very few of these pestilent fellows
13 - would have lived to climb that mountain again.
The descent was continued for three hours, halting
every fifteen minutes to repel the natives, who, to the
number of forty, or thereabouts, followed us down to
the plain.
Half a mile from the base of the mountain we crossed
a slightly saline stream, which had hollowed a deep
channel, banked by precipitous and in some places per-
pendicular walls of debris 50 feet high, on either side.
On the edge of one of these latter walls we formed a
camp, the half of a circle being thus unassailable ; the
other half we soon made secure with brushwood and
material from an abandoned village close by. Having
observed that the daring natives had descended into the
plain, and knowing their object to be a night attack, a
chain of sentries were posted at a distance from the
camp, who were well hidden by the grass. An hour
after dark the attack was made by the band of natives,
who, trying one point after another, were exceedingly
surprised to receive a fusilade from one end of the half
circle to the other.
This ended a troublous day, and the rest we now
sought was well earned.
Inspecting the aneroid on reaching the camping-
place, we discovered that we had made a descent of
2,250 feet since we had left our post of observation on
the verge of the plateau above.
On the 14th we left the base of the plateau, and
marched across the plain that gently sloped for 5 miles
to the lake. As we travelled on, we examined closely
if among the thin forest of acacia any tree would likely
be available for a canoe ; but the plain was destitute of
all but acacia, thorn-bush, tamarind, and scrub a proof
that the soil, though sufficiently rich for the hardier
trees, had enough acrid properties nitre, alkali, or
salts to prevent the growth of tropical vegetation.
We, however, trusted that we should be enabled to
induce the natives to part with a canoe, or, as was more
likely, probably Emin Pasha had visited the south end
AN UNWOMANLY VIRAGO. 331
of the lake, according to my request, and had made iss?.
arrangements with the natives for our reception. If Dec - 14>
not, why ultimately perhaps we should have legitimate xyanll.
excuse for taking a temporary loan of a canoe.
About a mile and a half from the lake we heard some
natives cutting fuel in a scrubby wood, not far from the
road. We halted, and maintained silence while the
interpreter attempted to obtain a reply to his friendly
hail. For ten minutes we remained perfectly still,
waiting until the person, who proved to be a woman,
deigned to answer. Then, for the first time in Africa,
I heard as gross and obscene abuse as the traditional
fishwoman of Billingsgate is supposed to be capable of
uttering. We were obliged to desist from the task of
conciliating such an unwomanly virago.
We sent the interpreter ahead with a few men to the
village at the lake side, which belonged to a chief called
Katonza, and sometimes Kaiya Nkondo, with instruc-
tions to employ the utmost art possible to gain the
confidence of the inhabitants, and by no means to admit
rebuff by words or threats, hostile action only to be
accepted as an excuse for withdrawal. We, in the
meantime, were to follow slowly, and then halt until
summoned, close to the settlement.
The villagers were discovered totally unconscious of
our approach and neighbourhood. Their first impulse,
on seeing our men, was to fly ; but, observing that they
were not pursued, they took position on an anthill at
an arrow-flight's distance, more out of curiosity than
goodwill. Perceiving that our men were obliging,
polite, and altogether harmless, they sanctioned the
approach of the caravan, and on seeing a white man
they were induced to advance near, while assurances of
friendliness were being assiduously reiterated. About
forty natives mustered courage to draw near for easy
parley, and then harangues and counter-harangues, from
one side to the other, one party vowing by their lives,
by the love of their throats, by the blue sky above, that
no harm was intended or evil meditated that only
friendship and goodwill were sought, for which due gifts
332 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. would be given, the other averring that though their
14- hesitation might be misjudged, and possibly attributed
Nyanza. ^ ^ ear > still they had met often met a people called
the Wara-Sura, armed with guns like ours, who simply
killed people. Perhaps, after all, we were Wara-Sura,
or their friends, for we had guns also, in which case
they were quite ready to fight the instant they were
assured we were Wara-Sura or their allies.
" Wara-Sura ! Wara-Sura ! What men are these ?
We never heard of the name before. Whence are
they ?" &c., &c., and so on unceasingly for three mortal
hours in the hot sun. Our cajolings and our winsomest
smiles began to appear of effect, but they suddenly
assumed moodiness, and expressed their suspicion in the
harsh, rasping language of Unyoro, which grated horribly
on the hearing. In the end our effort was a complete
failure. We had, unknown to ourselves, incurred their
suspicion by speaking too kindly of Unyoro and of
Kabba Rega, who, we found later, was their mortal
enemy. They would not accept our friendship, nor
make blood-brotherhood, nor accept even a gift. They
would give us water to drink, and they would show the
path along the lake.
" You seek a white man, you say. We hear there is
one at Kabba Rega's (Casati). Many, many years ago a
white man came from the north in a smoke-boat (Mason
Bey), but he went away, but that was when we were
children. There has been no strange boat on our waters
since. We hear of strange people being at Buswa
(Mswa), but that is a long way from here. There north-
ward along the lake lies your way. All the wicked
people come from there. We never heard any good
of men who came in from the Ituri either. The Wara
Sura sometimes come from there."
They condescended to show us the path leading along
the shore of the lake, and then stood aside on the plain,
bidding us, in not unfriendly tones, to take heed of our-
selves, but not a single article for their service would
they accept. Wondering at their extraordinary manner,
and without a single legitimate excuse to quarrel with
THE MYSTERY ABOUT THE PASHA.
them, we proceeded on our way meditatively, with most iss?.
unhappy feelings.
Pondering upon the strange dead stop to that hopeful- ^nll.
ness which had hitherto animated us, it struck us that a
more heartless outlook never confronted an explorer in
wild Africa than that which was now so abruptly revealed
to us. From the date of leaving England, January 21,
1887, to this date of 14th December, it never dawned on
us that at the very goal we might be baffled so com-
pletely as we were now. There was only one comfort,
however, in all this ; there was henceforward no incerti-
tude. We had hoped to have met news of the Pasha here.
A governor of a province, with two steamers, life-boats,
and canoes, and thousands of people we had imagined
would have been known everywhere on such a small lake
as the Albert, which required only two days' steaming from
end to end. He could not, or he would not, leave Wadelai,
or he knew nothing yet of our coming.* When compelled
through excess of weakness to leave our steel boat at
Ipoto, we had hoped one of three things : either that the
Pasha, warned by me of my coming, would have pre-
pared the natives for our appearance, or that we could
purchase or make a canoe of our own. The Pasha had
never visited the south end of the lake ; there was no
canoe to be obtained, nor was there any tree out of
which one could be made.
Since we had entered the grass land we had expended
five cases of cartridges. There remained forty-seven
cases with us, besides those at Ipoto in charge of Captain
Nelson and Dr. Parke. Wadelai was distant twenty-
five days' journey by land, though it was only four by
lake. If we travelled northward by land, it was most
likely we should expend twenty -five cases in fighting to
reach Wadelai, assuming that the tribes were similar to
those in the south. On reaching Emin Pasha we should
then have only twenty-two left. If we then left twelve
* In November, 1887, Emin Pasha wrote to his friend Dr. Felkin: "All
well ; on best terms with chiefs and people ; will be leaving shortly for
Kibiro, on east coast of Lake Albert. Have sent reconnoitering party to
look out for Stanley, which had to return with no news yet. Stanley
expected about December 15th (1887)." We arrived on the 14th.
334 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. cases only with him, we should have only ten to return
Dec. H. ky a rou j-; e U p On which we had fired thirty cases. Ten
Albert J ill-, -i IP
cases would be quite as an inadequate supply ior us as
twelve would be for Emin. This was a mental review
of our position as we trudged northward along the shore
of the Albert. But hoping that at Kasenya Island, to
which we were wending, we might be able to obtain a
canoe, I resolved upon nothing except to search for a
vessel of some kind for a couple of days, and failing
that, discuss the question frankly with my companions.
At our noon halt, a few miles north of Katonza's, the
first note of retreat was sounded. The officers were
both shocked and grieved.
" Ah, gentleman," said I, "do not look so. You will
make my own regrets greater. Let us look the facts
fairly in the face. If the island of Kasenya has no canoe
to give us, we must retrace our tracks ; there is no help
for it. We will devote to-day and to-morrow to the
search, but we are then face to face with starvation if we
linger longer in this deserted plain. There is no culti-
vation on this acrid lake terrace, nothing nearer than
the plateau. Our principal hope was in Emin Pasha. I
thought that he could make a short visit in his steamers
to this end of the lake, and would tell the natives that he"
expected friends to come from the west. What has
become of him, or why he could not reach here, we
cannot say. But Katonza's villagers told us that they
had never seen a steamer or a white man since Mason
Bey was here. They have heard that Casati is in
Unyoro. Without a boat it means a month's journey
to us to find him."
"There is but oneway besides retreating that appears
feasible to me, and that is by seizing upon some village
on the lake shore, and build an entrenched camp, and
wait events say, for the news to reach Unyoro, or
Wadelai, or Kabba Rega ; and Casati, Emin, or the
Unyoro king may become curious enough to send to
discover who we are. But there is the food question.
These lake villagers do not cultivate. They catch fish
and make salt to sell to the people on the plateau for
INEXPLICABLE ABSENCE OF EMIN. 335
grain. We should have to forage, ascending and 1887.
descending daily that dreadful mountain slope. For a ]
week or so the natives of the plateau might resist every NyanzL
foraging party, but finally surrender, and emigrate
elsewhere to distant parts, leaving a naked land in our
possession. You must admit that this would be a most
unwise and foolish plan."
" Were our boat here, or could a canoe be procurable
by any means, our position would be thus : We could
launch and man her with twenty men, supply them with
ten or twelve days' provisions and an officer, and bid
the crew ' God speed,' while we could re-ascend to the
plateau, seize upon a good position near the edge of the
plateau, render it quickly unassailable, and forage north,
south, and west in a land abounding with grain and
cattle, and keep sentries observing the lake and watching
for the signal of fire or smoke. On her arrival, a hundred
rifles could descend to the lake to learn the news of
Emin Pasha's safety, or perhaps of his departure, via
Ukedi and Usoga, to Zanzibar. The last is probable,
because the latest news that I received from the
Foreign Office showed that he meditated taking such
a step. But now, as we are without canoe or boat, I
feel, though we are but four days by water from
Wadelai, that we are only wasting valuable time in
searching for expedients, when common-sense bids us
be off to the forest, find some suitable spot like Ibwiri
to leave our surplus stores, sick men, and convalescents
from Ugarrowwa and Ipoto, and return here again with
our boat and a few dozen cases of ammunition. In
this inexplicable absence of Emin, or any news of him,
we should be unwise in wasting our strength, carrying
the too great surplus of ammunition, when perhaps the
Pasha has departed from his province."
During our afternoon march we travelled along the
lake until the island of Kasenya bore from our
camping-place 127 magnetic, or about a mile distant,
and our observation point on the summit of the plateau
bore 289.
We made a bush fence, and halted at an early hour.
336 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887.^ The afternoon was likewise spent in considering our
\ 15 ' position more fully under the new light thrown upon
it by the determined refusal of Katonza and his followers
to entertain our friendship.
On the morning of the 15th December I sent
Lieutenant Stairs and forty men to speak with the
people of Kasenya Island, which is about 800 yards
from the shore. As the lake is very shallow, the
canoe with two fishermen which Lieutenant Stairs hailed
could not approach the shore to within several hundred
yards. The mud was of unfathomed depth, and none
dared to put a foot into it. Along the water's edge the
singular wood ambatch thrives, and continues its narrow
fringe around the southern extremity of the lake, re-
sembling from a distance an extensive range of fisher-
men's stakes or a tall palisade. The fishermen pointed
out a locality further up the lake where they could
approach nearer, and which was their landing-place, the
distance they were then at barely allowing the sounds of
the voice to be heard. We spent the morning awaiting
Lieutenant Stairs, who had considerable difficulty with
the mud and swamps. In the afternoon I sent Mr.
Jephson and forty men to the landing-place indicated
by the natives, which was a low bluff wooded at the
summit, with depth of water sufficient for all practical
purposes. In reply to a hail a fisherman and his wife
came to within a good bow-shot from the shore, and
deigned to converse with our party. They said
" Yes, we remember a smoke-boat came here a long
time ago. There was a white man (Colonel Mason) in
her, and he talked quite friendly. He shot a hippo-
potamus for us, and gave it to us to eat. The bones lie
close to where you stand, which you may see for
yourselves. There are no large canoes on this lake or
anywhere about here, for the biggest will but hold two
or three people with safety, and no more. We buy our
canoes from the Wanyoro on the other side for fish and
salt. Will we carry a letter for you to Unyoro ? No
(with a laugh). No, we could not think of such a
thing ; that is a work for a chief and a great man, and
EXTRAORDINARY FISHERMEN. 337
we are poor people, no better than slaves. Will we sell 1887.
a canoe ? A little canoe like this will carry you
nowhere. It is only fit for fishing close to shore in NyanL.
shallow waters like these. Which way did you come
here ? By the way of the Ituri ? Ah ! that proves you
to be wicked people. Who ever heard of good people
coming from that direction ? If you were not wicked
people you would have brought a big boat with you,
like the other white man, and shoot hippos like him. Go
your ways yonder lies your road ; but as you go you
will meet with people as bad as yourselves, whose work
is to kill people. There is no food close to this lake or
in all this plain. Fishermen like we have no need of
hoes. Look around everywhere and you will not find a
field. You will have to go back to the mountains where
there is food for you ; there is nothing here. Our
business is to make salt and catch fish, which we take
to the people above, and exchange for grain and beans.
This island is Kasenya, and belongs to Kavalli, and the
next place is Nyamsassi. Go on. Why do you not go
on and try your luck elsewhere ? The first white man
stopped in these waters one night in his boat, and the
next morning he went on his way, and since then we
have not seen him or any other."
Go ! The inevitable closed around us to fulfil the
law that nothing worth striving for can be obtained but
by pain and patience. Look where we might, a way to
advance was denied to us, except by fighting, killing,
destroying, consuming and being consumed. For
Unyoro we had no money, or goods fit for Eabba Rega.
Marching to Wadelai would only be a useless waste of
ammunition, and its want of it would probably prevent
our return, and so reduce us to the same helplessness
as Emin Pasha was reported to be in. If we cast our
eyes lakewards we became conscious that we were bipeds
requiring something floatable to bear us over the water.
All roads except that by which we came were closed, and
in the meantime our provisions were exhausted.
At the evening's council we resolved to adopt the
only sensible course left us that is, to return to Ibwiri,
VOL I. w
338 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. eighteen days' journey from here, and there build a
>ec. 15. s t ron g stockade, then to send a strong party to Ipoto
to bring up the boat, goods, officers, and convalescents
to our stockade, and after leaving fifty rifles there under
three or four officers, hurry on to Ugarrowwa's settle-
ment, and send the convalescents from thsre back to
Ibwiri, and afterwards continue our journey in search of
the Major and the rear column before he and it was a
wreck, or marched into that wilderness whence we so
narrowly escaped, and then, all united again, march on
to this place with the boat, and finish the mission
thoroughly, with no anxieties in the rear bewildering or
enfeebling us.
The following day, December 16th, a severe rainstorm
detained us in camp until 9 A.M. The low hard plain
absorbed the water but slowly, and 'for the first hour we
tramped through water up to bhe knee in some places.
We then emerged on a gently rolling plain, where the
grass was but three inches high, with clumps of bush
;and low trees a few score of yards apart, making the
whole scene resemble an ornamental park. Arriving at
the path connecting the landing-place of Kasenya with
the mountain pass by which we descended, we crossed
it, keeping parallel to the lake shore, and about a mile
and a half from it. Presently herds of game appeared,
and, as our people were exceedingly short of provisions,
we prepared to do our best to obtain a supply of meat.
After some trouble a male kudu fell to my share,
and Saat Tato, the hunter, dropped a hartebeest.
Two miles beyond the lancdng-place of Kasenya we
halted.
Our object in halting here was to blind the natives of
Katonza's, who, we felt sure, would follow us to see if
we had moved on, for naturally, having behaved so
unruly to us, they might well entertain fears, or at least
anxiety, respecting us. At* night we proposed to retrace
our steps, and follow the road to the foot of the moun-
tain pass, and before dawn commence the steep and
stony ascent, and be at the summit before the natives
of the table-land above would be astir as a struggle
TREACHEROUS SAVAGES. 339
with such determined people, heavily loaded as we were, iss?.
was to be avoided if possible.
About 3 P.M., as we were occupied in dividing the ^anzl
game among the hungry people, some native yells were
heard, and half a dozen arrows fell into the halting-
place. Nothing can giye a better idea of the blind
stupidity or utter recklessness of these savages than
this instance of half a score of them assaulting a well-
appointed company of 170 men in the wilderness, any
two of whom were more than a match for them in a
fight. Of course, having delivered their yells and shot
their arrows, they turned sharply about and fled.
Probably they knew they could rely upon their speed,
for they left our pursuing men far out of sight in an
incredibly short time. The ten savages who thus visited
us were the same who had affected such solicitude as to
come to ascertain if w T e had lost the road yesterday.
In my rambles after meat during the day, far down
the shore of the Lake from the halting-place, I came to
vast heaps of bones of slaughtered game. They seem to
have been of many kinds, from the elephant and
hippopotamus down to the small bush-bok. It is probable
that they had been surrounded by natives of the district
who, with the assistance of fire, had slaughtered them in
heaps within a circle of not more than 300 yards in
diameter.
Saat Tato the hunter, after wounding a buffalo, was
deterred from following it by the appearance of a full-
grown lion, who took up the chase.
The shore of the Lake as it trends North Easterly,
increases greatly in beauty. Over a score of admirable
camping places were seen by me close by the edge of the
Lake, with slopes of white firm sand, over much of
which the waves rolled ceaselessly. Behind was a back-
ground of green groves isleted amid greenest sward, and
game of great variety abounding near by ; while a view
of singular magnificence and beauty greeted the eye in
every direction.
At 5.30 P.M. we gathered together, and silently got
into order of march for the base of the mountain. We
340 7^ DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. had three sick people with us, two of them had not yet
>ec. 16. recoverec [ from the effects of our miserable days in the
great forest, another suffered from a high fever Incurred
in last night's rain-storm.
At 9 P.M. we stumbled upon a village, which confused
us somewhat, but the huge mountain, rising like a dark
cloud above us, prevented us from retracing our steps,,
which without it we might well have done, as it was.
extremely dark. In dead silence we passed through the
sleeping village, and followed a path out of it, which, de-
generating into a mere trail, was soon lost. For another
hour we bore on, keeping our eyes steadily fixed on the
darker shadow that rose to the starry sky above us,
until at last wearied nature, betrayed by the petulance
of the advance guard, demanded a halt and rest. We
threw ourselves down on the grass even where we halted,
and were soon in deepest slumber, indifferent to all
troubles.
At dawn we rose from a deep sleep, drenched with
dew and but little refreshed, and gazing up at the
immense wall of the table-land that rose in four grand
terraces of about 600 feet each, we discovered that we
were yet about two miles from the foot of the pass. We
therefore pressed forward, and shortly reached the base
of the ascent. By aneroids we were 150 feet above
the level of the Lake, which was 2400 feet above the
sea, and we were 2500 feet below the summit of
the saddle, or sunken ridge between the Northern and
Southern ranges whose Eastern ends frowned above us.
While the carriers of the expedition broke their fast
on the last morsels of meat received from yesterday's
hunting, thirty picked men were sent up to seize the
top of the ascent, and to keep the post while the loaded
caravan struggled upward.
After half-an-hour's grace we commenced ascending
up the rocky and rain -scoured slope, with a fervid
" Bismillah " on our lips. After the fatiguing night-
march, the after-chill of the dew, and drizzling rain
and cold of the early morn, we were not in the best
condition to climb to a 2500 feet altitude. To increase
THE TERRIBLE CLIMB TO THE TABLE-LAND. 841
our discomfort, the Eastern sun shone full on our backs, issi.
and the rocks reflected its heat in our faces. One of the Dec> 1
sick men in delirium wandered away, another suffering %
from high bilious fever surrendered and would proceed
no further. When we were half-way up twelve natives
of Katonza's were seen far below on the plains, bounding
along the track in hot chase of the Expedition, with the
object of picking up stragglers. They probably stumbled
across our sick men, and the ease with which a delirious
and unarmed person fell a sacrifice to their spears would
inspire them with a desire to try again. However,
Lieutenant Stairs was in charge of the rear guard, and
no doubt would give a good account of them if they
approached within range.
At the top of the second terrace we found a little
stream which was refreshingly cool, for the quartzose
rocks and gneissic boulders were scorching. That the
column suffered terribly was evident by the manner it
straggled in fragments over the slopes and terraced
flats, and by the streams of perspiration that coursed
down their naked bodies. It was a great relief that our
sharp-shooters held the brow of the hill, for a few bold
spearmen might have decimated the panting and gasping
sufferers.
At the top of the third terrace there was a short halt,
and we could command a view far down to the rear of
the column, which had not yet reached the summit of
the first terrace, and perceived the twelve natives
steadily following at about 500 yards' distance, and one
by one they were seen to bend over an object, which I
afterwards found from the commander of the rear-guard
was our second sick man. Each native drove his spear
into the body.
Observing their object, it was resolved that their
hostility should be punished, and Saat Tato the hunter
and four other experts were posted behind some large
rocks, between which they could observe without being
detected.
In two and three-quarter hours we reached the brow
of the plateau, and were standing by the advance-guard,
342 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. who had done excellent service in keeping the enemy
^ 17> away, and as the rear-guard mounted the height we
Plateau, heard the sharp crack of rifles from the ambushed party,
who were avenging the murder of two of their comrades.
One was shot dead, another was borne away bleeding,
and the ferocious scavengers had fled.
During the short breathing pause the advance-guard
were sent to explore the village near by, which, it seems,
was the exchange place between the plateau natives and
Lakists, and the gratifying news of a rich discovery soon
CORN GRANARY OF THE BABUSESSE.
spread through the column. A large store of grain and
beans had been found, sufficient to give each man five
days' unstinted rations.
At 1 P.M. we resumed our march, after giving positive
command that close order should be maintained in order
to avoid accidents and unnecessary loss of life. From
the front of the column, the aborigines, who had in the
interval of the halt gathered in vast numbers, moved
away to our flanks and rear. A large party hid in
some tall grass through which they supposed we should
EXULTING NATIVES CHECKED. 343
pass, but we swerved aside through a breadth of short iss?.
grass. Baffled by this movement they rose from their ^ 1 ^
coverts and sought by other means to gratify their Gavira ' 8 -
spleenish hate.
In crossing a deep gully near the knoll, which had
already witnessed a stirring contest between us, the
centre and rear of the column became somewhat con-
fused in the cany grass, and crossed over in three or
four broken lines ; our third sick man either purposely
lagged behind, or felt his failing powers too weak to
bear him further, and laid down in the grass, but it is
certain he never issued from the gully. We in the
advance halted for the column to reform, and just then
we heard a storm of triumphant cries, and a body of
about 400 exulting natives came leaping down the
slopes, infatuated with their noisy rage and indifferent
to rear - guards. Doubtless the triumphant cries
were uttered when the sick man's fate was sealed.
We had lost three ! The rush was in the hopes of
obtaining another victim. And, indeed, the rear-
guard, burdened with loads and harassed by their
duties, seemed to promise one speedily. But at this
juncture an expert left the advance and proceeded to
take position three hundred yards away from the line of
march, and nearer to the exultant natives, who were
bounding gleefully towards the tired rear-guard. His
first shot laid a native fiat, a second smashed the arm of
another and penetrated his side. There was an instant's
silence, and the. advance leaped from their position to
assist the rear-guard, who were immediately relieved of
their pursuers.
An hour's journey beyond this scene we camped on a
tabular hill, which commanded a wide view of rich
plains, for the night footsore and weary beyond any
former experience.
On this afternoon I reflected upon the singularity that
savages possessing such acute fear of death should yet
so frequently seek it. Most men would have thought
that the losses which had attended their efforts on the
10th, llth, 12th, and 13th would deter such as these
344 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
IBB?, from provoking strangers who had proved themselves
Dec. 17. so we }} able d e f enc i themselves. At one time we had
a j mos ^ } )een convinced that fire would teach them
caution ; we had also thought that keeping in a quiet
line of march, abstaining from paying heed to their
war-cries and their manoeuvres, and only act \\hen they
rushed to the attack, were sufficient to give them
glimpses of our rule of conduct. But this was the fifth
day of our forbearance. We were losing men, and we
could ill afford to lose one, for a vast work remained
unfinished. We had still to penetrate the forest twice,
we had to proceed to Ipoto to carry our boat to the
Nyanza, search the shores of the Lake as far as Wadelai
even Duffle, if necessary for news of Emin, to return
back again to the assistance of Major Barttelot and the
rear-column who were by this time no doubt looking
anxiously for help, wearied with their overwhelming
task and again to march through these grass-land tribes
to be each time subject to fatal loss through their unpre-
cedented recklessness and courage. I resolved, then,
that the next day we should try to find what effect
more active operations would have on them, for it might
be that, after one sharp and severe lesson and loss of
their cattle, they would consider whether war was as
profitable as peace.
Accordingly, the next day before dawn I called for
volunteers. Eighty men responded with alacrity. The
instructions were few
" You see, boys, these natives fight on the constant
run ; they have sharp eyes and long limbs. In the
work of to-day we white men are of no use. We are
all footsore and weary, and we cannot run far in this
country. Therefore you will go together with your
own chiefs. Go and hunt those fellows who killed our
sick men yesterday. Go right to their villages and
bring away every cow, sheep, and goat you can find.
Don't bother about firing their huts. You must keep
on full speed, and chase them out of every cane-brake
and hill. Bring me some prisoners that I may have some
of their own people to send to them with my w r ords."
LIFE IN AFRICA. 345
Meanwhile we availed ourselves of the halt to attend iss?.
to our personal affairs. Our shoes and clothing needed Dec ;
repair, and for hours we sat cobbling and tailoring.
At five in the afternoon the band of volunteers
returned, bringing a respectable herd of cattle with several
calves. Six bulls were slaughtered at once, and dis-
tributed to the men according to their companies, who
became nearly delirious with happiness.
"Such," said Three O'clock the hunter, ."is life in
A VILLAGE OF THE EAVIRI - EUROPEANS TAILORING, ETC.
this continent with a caravan. One day we have a
feast, and on the next the stomach is craving. Never
are two days alike. The people will eat meat now until
they are blind, and next month they will thank God if
they get as much as a wood-bean." Saat Tato had dis-
covered, like myself, that life in Africa consists of a
series . of varied sufferings with intervals of short
pleasures.
The cold was very great on this high land. Each
night since we had entered the grass country we had been
346 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887. driven indoors near sunset by the raw misty weather of
Dec * 18> the evening, and we shivered with chattering teeth in
bom." the extreme chilliness of the young day. On this morn-
ing the temperature was at 59 Fahrenheit. The men
were stark naked owing to the exactions and extortions
of the Manyuema, and had taken kindly to the leather
dresses of the natives, and the bark cloths worn by the
aborigines of the forest. A.ter experiencing the extremes
of cold to which these open pasture-lands were subject,
we no longer wondered at the tardiness shown by the
inhabitants to venture out before nine o'clock, and it
would have been manifest wisdom for us to have adopted
their example, had our task permitted it.
On the 19th December we struck across the rolling
plains towards Mazamboni. As we came near Gavira's
we were hailed by a group of natives, who shouted out,
" The country lies at your fest now. You will not be
interfered with any more ; but you would please us well
if you killed the chief of Undussuma, who sent us to
drive you back."
At noon, as we were abreast of the Balegga Hills, two
parties of forty men each were observed to be following
us. They hailed us finally, and expressed a wish to
" look us in the face." As they declined the permission
to approach us without arms, they were sharply ordered
away, lest we should suspect them of sinister designs.
They went away submissively.
In the afternoon we came to the villages of those who
had so persistently persecuted us on the 12th. The
people were spread over the hills vociferating fiercely.
The advance-guard were urged forward, and the hills
were cleared, despite the storms of abuse that were poured
out by the Balegga.
A few of the captured cattle furnished milk. Our
goats also gave an ample supply for tea and coffee, which
we were bound to accept as evidence that the heart of
Africa could supply a few comforts.
On the 20th our march lay through the rich valley of
Undussuma, the villages of which had been fired on the
10th and llth. Already it had recovered its aspect of
suma.
THE RICH VALLEY OF UNDUSSUMA. 347
populousness and prosperity, for the huts were all built iss?
anew, but it was still as death, the inhabitants sitting on ^ c * 5
the mountains looking down upon us as we marched
past. Not being challenged or molested, we passed
through in close order amidst a voiceless peace. May it
not be that by comparing one day's conduct with another,
the now from then, the children of Mazamboni will
accept the proffer of friendship which we may make on
our return ? We felt that the next time we came into
the land we should be received with courtesy, if not with
hospitality. Thus steadily, in view of hundreds of
Mazamboni's warriors, we passed through the renovated
valley. The millet was now ripe for the harvest, and
with our departure westward, happy days were yet in
store for them.
The next day we entered the Abunguma country, and
after fording the East Ituri River, camped on the right
bank.
The 22nd was a halt both Lieutenant Stairs and my-
self were prostrated by ague and footsores ; and on the
23rd we marched to the main Ituri River, where we
found that the Babusesse had withdrawn every canoe.
We proceeded down along the bank to a part of the
stream that was islanded. By 2 P.M. of the 24th we had
made a very neat and strong suspension bridge from the
left bank to an island in midstream, though only two
men could travel by it at a time. Uledi, the coxswain
of the advance, with a chosen band of thirteen men,
swam from the island to the right bank with their rifles
over their shoulders, and the gallant fourteen men scoured
up and down the banks for canoes, but were unsuccessful.
In the meantime a terrible storm of hail as large as
marbles beat down our tents, nearly froze the men, and
made everybody miserable with cold. The temperature
had suddenly fallen from 75 to 52 Fahrenheit. After
lasting fifteen minutes the sun shone on a camp ground
strewn with hail.
At daylight, Christmas morning, I sent Mr. Jephson
and Chief Rashid across the river with instructions to
make a raft of banana stalks. It was noon before it was
348
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1887.
Dec. 21.
Babusessd
finished, but in the meantime the caravan was passing by
^ le SUS p ens i on bridge to the island, and the ferriage by
, i , i r -TIT . J
rait commenced, taking lour men with loads at one trip.
In one hour we transported forty men and their loads by
these banana stalks. Getting more confident, we sent six
men and six loads at one trip, and by 4 P.M. No. 2 Com-
pany was safe across. No. 1 Company then turned to
haul the cattle from the left bank island, and after the
rear-guard had crossed by the bridge, " Three O'clock "
laid his bill-hook to the suspension bridge, and with a
few strokes destroyed it.
GREAT ROCK NEAR INDE-TONGA.
By noon of the 26th the Expedition was across the
main Ituri Eiver. Six calves were slaughtered for a
Christmas ration of beef. The next day one of our head
men died from inflammation of the lungs, caused by a chill
caught while halting on the brow of the plateau after the
perspiring ascent from the lake plain. By the 29th we
had reached Inde-sura ; we thence proceeded to the small
village of three huts near lyugu. On the 1st of January,
BORYVS VILLAGE BURNT. 849
1888, we camped at Inde-tongo, and the next day passed
by a gigantic granite rock in the forest, which sometimes
is used by the forest natives as a refuge resort during l
internecine strife.
On the 6th January we passed by Inde-mwani, and came
across the spot whence Msharasha, a Zanzibari, had fallen
from a log and broken his neck. The scavengers of the
woods the red ants had eaten the scalp and picked the
skull clean, until it resembled a large ostrich egg. The
chest of the body was still entire, but the lower limbs
were consumed clean. On the next day we entered
Ibwiri, and came to Boryo's village ; but, alas ! for our
fond hopes of rendering the village comfortable for occu-
pation, the natives had set fire to their own fine dwell-
ings. Fortunately for us, they had taken the precaution
to pick out the finest boards, and had stacked many 01
them in the bush. The large stores of Indian corn had
been hastily removed into temporary huts built within
the recesses of impervious bush. We set to at once to
collect the corn as well as the boards, and before night
we had begun the construction of the future Fort Bodo,
or the " Peaceful Fort."
VIEW OF FORT BODO.
350 IN DARKEST AFRICA
CHAPTER XIIT.
LIFE AT FORT BODO.
Our impending duties The stockade of Fort Bodo Instructions to
Lieutenant Stairs His departure for Kilonga-Longa's Pestered by
rats, mosquitoes, &c. Nights disturbed by the lemur Armies of
red ants Snakes in tropical Africa Hoisting the Egyptian flag
Arrival of Surgeon Parke and Captain Nelson from Ipoto Report
of their stay with the Manyuema Lieutenant Stairs arrives with
the steel boat We determine to push on to the Lake at once
Volunteers to convey letters to Major Barttelot Illness of myself
and Captain Nelson Uledi captures a Queen of the Pigmies Our
fields of corn Life at Fort Bodo We again set out for the Nyanza.
1888. ON arriving at AYest Ibwiri, about to build Fort Bodo,
Jan. 6. j e } t p rec i se ly lik e a " city man " returning from
>do ' his holiday to Switzerland or the sea-side, in whose
absence piles of business letters have gathered, which re-
quire urgent attention and despatch. They must be
opened, read, sifted, and arranged, and as he reflects on
their import he perceives that there are many serious
affairs, which, unless attended to with method and
diligence, will involve him in confusion. Our holiday
trip had been the direct and earnest march to the Albert
Lake, to serve a Governor who had cried to the world,
" Help us quickly, or we perish." For the sake of this,
Major Barttelot had been allowed to bring up the rear
column, the sick had been housed at Ugarrowwa's and
Kilonga-Longa's stations, the extra goods had been buried
in a sandy cache at Nelson's starvation camp or stored
at Ipoto, the boat Advance had been disconnected and
hidden in the bush, and Nelson and Surgeon Parke
had been boarded with the Manyuema, and everything
that had threatened to impede, delay, or thwart the
march had been thrust aside, or eluded in some way.
But now that the Governor, who had been the cynosure
THE STOCKADE OF FORT BODO.
351
of our imaginations and the subject of our daily argu- isss.
ments, had either departed homeward, or could, or would Jan - 6>
not assist in his own relief, the various matters thrust Fort J
aside for his sake required immediate attention. So I
catalogued our impending duties thus :
To extricate Nelson and Parke from the clutches of
the Manyuema,. also to bring up the convalescents, the
Advance steel boat, Maxim machine gun, and 116 loads
stored at Ipoto.
To construct Fort Bodo, to securely house a garrison ;
make a clearing; plant corn, beans, tobacco, that the
defenders may be secure, fed, and comforted.
To communicate with Major Barttelot by couriers, or
VIEW OF FORT BODO.
proceed myself to him ; to escort the convalescents at
Ugarrowwa's.
If boat was stolen or destroyed, then to make a canoe
for transport to the Nyanza.
If Barttelot was reported to be advancing, to hasten
supplies of corn and carriers to his assistance.
And first, the most needful duty was to employ every
soul in the building of the stockade, within which the
buildings could be constructed afc more leisure, and with-
out the necessity of having rifles slung to our shoulders.
During our absence the natives had burnt West Ibwiri,
and Boryo's fine village was a smoking ruin when we
entered. But the finest boards had been stripped off
the buildings, and were stacked outside, and the corn had
352 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. been hastily removed to temporary huts in impervious
Jan> 6l bush two hundred yards away. These were now irivalu-
Fort Bodo. i , J J
able to us.
By the 18th of January the stockade of Fort Bodo
was completed. A hundred men had been cutting tall
poles, and bearing them to those who had sunk a narrow
trench outlining the area of the fort, to plant firmly and
closely in line. Three rows of cross poles were bound
by strong vines and rattan creepers to the uprights.
Outside the poles, again, had been fixed the planking,
so that while the garrison might be merry-making by
firelight at night, no vicious dwarf, or ferocious aborigine
might creep up, and shoot a poisoned arrow into a
throng, and turn joy to grief. At three angles of the
fort, a tower sixteen feet high had been erected, fenced,
and boarded, in like manner, for sentries by night and
day to observe securely any movement in the future
fields ; a banquette rose against the stockade for the
defenders to command greater view. For during the
months that we should be employed in realizing our
stated tasks, the Manyuema might possibly unite to
assault the fort, and its defence therefore required to
be bullet-proof as well as arrow-proof.
When the stockade was completed, the massive
uprights, beams, hundreds of rafters, thousands of
climbers, creepers, vines, for the frames of the officers'
buildings, storerooms, kitchens, corn-bins, outhouses,
piles of phrynia leaves for roofing the houses, had to
be collected, and then when the gross work was so far
advanced on the evening of the 18th, Lieutenant Stairs
was summoned to receive his special instructions, which
were somewhat as follows :
" You will proceed to-morrow with a hundred rifles to
Ipoto, to see what has become of Nelson, Parke, and our
sick men, and if living to escort every man here. You
will also bring the boat Advance, and as many goods as
possible. The last letters from Nelson and Parke informed
us of many unpleasant things. We will hope for the
best. At any rate, you have one hundred men, strong
and robust as the Manyuema now, and their march to
STAINS' EXPEDITION TO IPOTO. 353
the Albert Lake has made men of them. They are filled isss.
with hate of the Manyuema. They go there indepen- Jan< li
dent, with corn rations of their own. You may do what F
you like with them. Now, if Nelson and Parke have no
complaints of hostility other than general niggardliness
and sulkiness of the Manyuema, do not be involved
in any argument, accusation, or reproach, but bring
them on. If the boat is safe, and has not been injured,
halt but one day for rest, and then hoist her up on your
shoulders and carry her here. But if the survivors will
prove to you that blood has been shed by violence, and
any white or black man has been a victim, or if the boat
has been destroyed, then consult with the surviving
whites and blacks, think over your plans leisurely, and
let the results be what they ought to be, full and final
retaliation. That is all, except remember for God's sake
that every day's absence beyond a reasonable period
necessary for marching there and back, will be dooming
us here to that eternal anxiety which follows us on
this Expedition wherever we go. It is enough to be
anxious for Barttelot, the Pasha, Nelson and Parke and
our sick men, without any further addition."
, Three cows were slaughtered for meat rations for
Stairs' Expedition, each man received 120 ears of corn,
goats, fowls, and plaintains were taken for the com-
mander and his two friends, and the party set off for
Kilonga-Longa on the 19th.
Stairs' party at muster consisted of The garrison numbered
88 men. QO men.
6 chiefs. 3 cooks.
1 officer. 4 boys.
1 boy. 3 whites.
1 cook.
1 Manyema. 70
98 .
After the departure of Stairs, I commenced the con-
struction of a corn-bin to store 300 bushels of Indian
corn, and to plaster the interior of head-quarters.
Jephson busied hiinself in levelling floor of officers'
VOL i. x
354
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. house. Men carried clay, others rammed and tamped.
Jan. is. g ome men were on the roofs arranging the large-leaved
' phrynia one above the other on a kind of trestle frame,
others formed ladders, made clay-dough for the walls,
doors and windows for the houses, built kitchens,
excavated latrines, or dug the ditch ten feet wide, six
feet deep through a hard yellow clay, that lay under the
twenty-four inches of humus and loam of the clearing.
When the houses were completed, we made a whitewash
out of wood ashes, which gave them a clean and neat
appearance
PLAN OF FORT #ODO AND VICINITY. By Lieut. /SfcuYs, R.E.
On the 28th, head-quarters was ready for occupation.
We had cleared three acres of land, cut down the bush
clean to the distance of 200 yards from the fort, chopped
the logs the lighter were carried away, the heavier were
piled up and fire applied to them, and the next day
folded the tents and removed to our mansions, which, as
Jephson declared, were " remarkably snug." There was
at first a feeling of dampness, but a charcoal fire burning
night and day soon baked the walls dry.
CONSTRUCTION OF HEADQUARTERS. 355
To February 6 we extended the clearing, but dis-
covering that natives were prowling about the fort, Jan - 19 -
planting poisoned splinters in the paths, cutting down Fort Bodo
the bananas, and bent on general mischief, half of the
garrison were divided into two parties of patrols, to
scour the plantations and the adjoining forest. On this
day's explorations several camps of dwarfs were found
at the distance of a mile from the fort, with stores of
plaintains in their possession. They were thoroughly
rousted out, and their camps were destroyed.
After a few days' experiences of life in the buildings
we found we were to be annoyed by hosts of rats, fleas,
and microscopically small mosquitoes. The rats de-
stroyed our corn and bit our feet, sported wantonly over
our faces, and. played hide-and-seek under our bed-
clothes. It seems that by their wondrous craft they
had discovered the natives were about to burn West
Ibwiri, and had migrated in time out of harm's way into
the deep bush and the corn fields, and they probably
had a dim idea that such an eligible place would not
remain long without tenants. When the commodious
houses of the Europeans were erected, with spacious
lofts, and corn-bins with an inexhaustible supply of
grain, they had waited until everything was prepared ;
but in the meantime the strange white men had
excavated a long and deep ditch half round the fort, the
walls of which had been carved perpendicularly out of
the clay, into which, in their scurry and hurry to take
possession, several families of rats tumbled, and one
morning " Eandy," the fox-terrier, leaped in among
them, and exterminated the unfortunates. Still, from
the Zanzibari village some wise old rats had found safe
entrance and multiplied so fast that, until we became
accustomed to their playful though rude sport, we
thought them to be an intolerable nuisance.
At the same time the warm dry clay floors began to
breed fleas by myriads. Poor " Eandy " was' most
miserable from these vexatious torments. We were in
no better plight. While dressing they made our limbs
black with their numbers. To suppress this pest we
356 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. had recourse to keeping the floors constantly damp, and
to sweeping the floors twice a day.
The ordinary mosquito netting was no protection
against the mosquitoes of the clearing. They sailed
through the open work as mice would creep through
antelope nets, and the only remedy was to make
mosquito curtains out of cotton muslin, which happily
succeeded, but half suffocated the sleepers.
Our soap had long ago been exhausted, and as a
substitute, though it was not agreeable to the smell,
and was an altogether unsaleable article, we manu-
factured a soft soap out of castor-oil and lye, and, after
a few experiments, succeeded in turning out a hard ball-
like substance, which had all the desired effect.
Every night, from Yambuya to the plains, we had
been troubled by harsh screams from the lemur. It
began at a startling loud key, very deliberate, and as
it proceeded the sounds became loader, quicker, and
higher, in a quick succession of angry, grating, wailing
cries. In the darkness and silence of the night, they
sounded very weird. Soon, from a distance of perhaps
200 yards, commenced a response in the same strain,
from another sexual mate. Sometimes two or three
pairs of these would make sleep impossible, if any
indisposition had temporarily disturbed the usual rest.
Armies of red ants would sometimes invade the fort
from the clearing ; their columns were not interrupted
by the ditch. In long, thick, unbroken lines, guarded
by soldiers on either flank, the innumerable insects
would descend the ditch and ascend the opposite sides,
over the parapets, through the interstices of the poles,
over the banquette, and down into the plaza of the fort,
some columns attacking the kitchen, others head-
quarters, the officers' mess-house, and woe betide any
unlucky naked foot treading upon a myriad. Better
a flogging with nettles, or cayenne over an excoriated
body, or a caustic bath for a ravenous itch, than these
biting and venomous thousands climbing up the limbs
and body, burying themselves in the hair of the head,
and plunging their shining, horny mandibles into the
PESTERED BY BATS, MOSQUITOES, ETC. 357
flesh, creating painful pustules with every bite. Every isss.
living thing seems disturbed at their coming. Men are Feb - ?
screaming, bellowing with pain, dancing, and writhing. f
There is a general rustle, as of a host of migrant
creatures among the crisp dry phrynia leaves overhead.
The rats and mice, snakes, beetles, and crickets are
moving. From a slung cot I have observed, by candle-
light, the avengers advancing over the floor of my
house, scaling the walls, searching the recesses of every
layer of leaves, skirmishing among the nooks and cran-
nies, mouse-holes, and cracks ; heard moaning and crying
of little blind mice, and terrified squealing of motherly and
paternal rats, and hailed them as a blessing, encouraging
them along on their career of destruction, until presently
some perverse and undisciplined tribes would drop from
the roof on my cot, and convert their well-wisher into a
vindictive enemy, who, in his rage, would call aloud for
hot glowing embers and roast them alive by thousands,
until the air was heavy with the odour of frizzling and
frying ants. Bad luck to them !
While digging in the stiff yellow clay, to form the
ditch, we have come across burnt wood in the hard
compacted material, 5 feet below the surface of the
humus. Yet there were stately trees, 100, 150, and
200 years old, above. The site was level, and apparently
undisturbed.
One of our surprises has been the immunity we have
enjoyed from snake-bites in tropical Africa. The con-
tinent swarms with reptiles of all kinds, from the silvery
and blind typhlops to the huge python ; but while
travelling and navigating over 24,000 miles of land and
water in Africa, only two men have been wounded,
neither of which cases proved mortal. But the instant
we begin clearing a forest, or hoeing a field or a road-
way, we begin to realize the dangers we have escaped.
During the work of clearing the prostrate logs, and
rooting out the bushy undergrowth and preparing for
cultivation, we came across many specimens, some
remarkably beautiful. Coiled in the bushes, green as a
tender young wheat-blade, were the slender whip-snakes,
358 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888.* which dropped down among the men when the bill-hook
Feb - 6 - was applied to destroy their perches. Various species
of the Dendrophis, of brilliant colouring, also were
revealed. Three bloated puff-adders, gorgeous in their
complicated system of decorations, were killed ; four
horned snakes crept out of their holes to attack and be
slain ; one of the Lycodontidae, curious for its long
fangs, was roasted out of its hiding-place, while several
little, blind, blunt-headed, silvery snakes, not much
larger than earthworms, were turned up by the hoes.
Tortoises were very common, and the mephitis left
frequent traces of his existence.
While kites, the most daring of their tribe, soared
above every clearing in the forest, we never met a single
vulture until we reached the grass-land. A few white-
collared eagles now and then made their appearance,
but there were parrots innumerable. From grey dawn
to dusk these birds always and everywhere made their
presence known. A few herons occasionally rested on
trees in the clearing towards evening. They were
probably fatigued with their flight from the Nyanza.
The black ibis and wagtails were our constant com-
panions in the wilds. Trees with weaver birds and
their nests were a feature near every forest village.
The neighbourhood, and finally our plantations, even
within a dozen yards of the fort, were visited by troops
of elephants. Buffalo and wild-hog tracks were common,
but we were not naturalists. None of us had leisure,
and probably but little taste, for collection of insects,
butterflies, and birds. To us an animal or a bird was
something to eat, but with all our efforts we seldom
obtained anything. We only noted what happened to
catch our eyes or cross our track. We had too many
anxieties to be interested in anything save what was
connected with them. If a native or a Zanzibari picked
up a brilliant longicorn beetle or hawk-moth, or fine
butterfly, or a huge mantis, or brought birds' eggs, or a
rare flower, a lily or an orchid, a snake or a tortoise, my
mind wandered to my own special business, even while
gazing at and approving the find. My family was
COMPLETION OF THE FORT. 359
altogether too large to permit frivolity ; not an hour .
passed but my fancies fled after Stairs at Ipoto ; or Keb - 6 -
my thoughts were filled with visions of Barttelot and Fort Bodo *
Jameson struggling through the forest, overwhelmed
with their gigantic task, or they dwelt upon the mystery
surrounding the Pasha, or upon the vicious dwarfs and
the murderous Balesse and their doings, or upon the
necessities of providing, day after day, food and meat
for the present, as well as for future months.
On the 7th of February the sounding line was
stretched out to measure out the approaches to the gates
of the fort, and most of the garrison were employed for
several days in cutting broad, straight roads, east and
west, for quick travel and easy defence. Mighty logs
were cut through and rolled aside, the roads were
cleaned, so that a mouse might be detected crossing
them at 200 yards off, a bridge was built across the
stream west of the fort, by which the scouts were
enabled to proceed from each of the plantations in a
short time, by night or by day. It may well be
imagined what effect this flood of light had upon the
crafty natives, who preferred burrowing in dark shades,
and creep under the lee of monster logs, furtively spying
out opportunities for attack. They felt that they could
not cross the road at any point without becoming a
target for a sentry's rifle, or their tracks would betray
them to the patrols.
On the next morning we raised a flag-staff 50 feet
high, and as the Egyptian flag was hoisted up, the
Soudanese were permitted to salute it with twenty-one
rounds.
We had scarcely finished the little ceremony when a
shot was fired at the end of the western road, the sentry
at the tower commanding it sang out, " Sail ho," and
we knew the caravan was coming in from Ipoto.
Surgeon Parke was the first to arrive, looking won-
derfully well, but Nelson, who suffered from sore feet,
and entered the fort an hour later, was prematurely
old, with pinched and drawn features, with the bent
back and feeble legs befitting an octogenarian.
360 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. The following account will speak for itself, and will
prove that the stay of these officers at the Manyema
* village required greater strength of mind and a moral
courage greater than was needed by us during our
stormy advance across the grass-land. They were not
inspired by energising motives to sustain or encourage
them in their hour of suffering from physical pros-
tration, sickness, and the wearying life they led
among those fearful people, the Manyuema, whereas we
had been borne up by the novelties of new scenes, the
constant high pitch of excitement, the passion of travel
and strife. They suffered from the want of the neces-
saries of life day after day, while we revelled in
abundance, and the greatest difficulty of all was to bear
all these sufferings inflicted upon them by Ismailia,
Khamis, and Sangarameni, who were slaves of Kilonga-
Longa, who was the slave of Abed bin Salim, of
Zanzibar, sweetly and pleasantly.
Report of Surgeon T. H. PARKE, Army Medical Department, in medical
charge of E. P. R. Expedition.
Fort Bodo, 8 February, 1888.
SIR, I have the honour to forward this report for your information.
In compliance with your orders dated 24th October, 1887, 1 remained at
the Manyuema Camp to take charge of invalids and impedimenta left there
on your departure, 28th October, up to the time the relief party arrived,
25th January, 1888. Of those invalids whom you left at camp, seven
were sufficiently recovered to send on with Captain Jephson, 7th Novem-
ber ; those remaining were increased in number by the arrival of Captain
Nelson, his two boys, and two men, 3rd November ; also headman TJmari
and nine men, who were found in a starving condition in the bush by
Kilonga-Longa, and brought to camp by him 9th January ; this made a
total of one sick officer and thirty-nine invalids remaining in camp ; of
this number Captain Nelson and sixteen men left with the relief party.
Twelve men were away on a journey looking for food, therefore remain
at Manyuema Camp, and eleven deaths occurred; this extremely high
mortality will no doubt astonish you, especially as it was entirely due to
starvation, except in two instances only. From the time you left the
Manyuema Camp until our departure, 26th January, the chiefs gave little
or no food to either officers or men; those men who were sufficiently
strong to do a good day's work, sometimes got as many as ten heads of
corn (Indian) per man, but as the working men were not constantly
employed, their average ration of corn was about three per day ; those
invalids unable to work, of whom there were many, received no food
from the chiefs, and were therefore obliged to exist on herbs. Remember-
ing the wretched and debilitated condition of all these men, both from
privation and disease, you will readily understand that the heartless
SURGEON PARKES REPORT. 361
treatment of the Manyuema chiefs was sufficient to cause even a much
greater mortality. Feb
The men were badly housed, and their scanty clothing consisted of ., R ,
about half a yard of native bark-cloth, as they sold their own clothes for
food ; they experienced not only the horrors ol starvation, but were
cruelly and brutally treated by the Manyuema, who drove them to commit
theft by withholding food, and then scored their backs with rods, and in
one case speared a man to "eath (Asmani bin Hassan) for stealing.
Captain Nelson arrived in a very weak condition, requiring good food
and careful treatment. He visited the chiefs, and made them handsome
presents of articles costing about 75, with a view to win their sympathy ;
however, they continued to give little or no food to officers or men : they
said that no arrangement had been made for provisioning Captain Nelson,
and any food they sent to me was entirely of their own generosity, as no
arrangement had been made by you. I asked them to let me see the
written agreement between you and them, which they did; also another
document written in Arabic characters, which I could not read. In
their agreement with you I saw that they had promised to provision the
officers and men whom you would leave. 1 appealed to them, and
remonstrated with them, nevertheless they supplied less and less food,
until finally they refused to give any on the plea that they had none.
The height of this generosity would be reached when they would send
two or three cups of Indian meal to feed Captain Nelson, myself and the
boys, until the next donation would turn up in six or seven days after-
wards. During the last seven weeks we did not receive any food what-
ever from the chiefs. Owing to their refusal to give us food, we were
obliged first to sell our own clothes, and eight rifles belonging to the
Expedition to provide ourselves and boys with food. I repeatedly re-
minded Ismaili (chief) of the conversation he had with you in your' tent
the night before you left the caiup, when he promised to look after and
care for the officers and men whom you left in camp. Although the
chiefs had no food to supply according to their agreement, yet they had
always plenty to sell, their object being to compel us to sell the arms and
ammunition for food. 1 send you a complete list of effects left in my
charge by Captain Jephson, 7th November, all of which were correct
when the relief party arrived, with the following exceptions, viz. : two
boxes Eemington ammunition, and one rifle, which were stolen by a
Zanzibari (Saraboko), and, I believe, sold to the Manyuema chiefs.
Several attempts were made to steal the arms, boxes, &c. ; on the night of
November 7th, the hut in which the baggage was stored was set on fire
with a view to taking everything with a rush in the confusion caused by
the fire : however, their dream was frustrated, as Captain Nelson, who
was ever awake saw the blaze, and gave the alarm just in time for our-
selves and our boys to put out the fire before it got to the baggage.
I then had the tents pitched according to your directions, not being able
to do so earlier, as I had no assistance. All the rifles, ammunition,
boxes, &c., were packed in the tents, one of which was occupied by
Captain Nelson, and the other by myself. Every effort was made to
prevent things being stolen ; nevertheless, even Captain Nelson's blankets
were taken by a thief who got under the tent from behind. On another
occasion I heard a noise at my tent-door, and, jumping out of bed quickly,
I found a box of ammunition ten yards off, which had just been taken
out of my tent. The thief escaped in the dark.
On the night of January 9th, I heard a noise outside my tent, and,
suspecting a thief, I crept out noiselessly to the back, where 1 caught
" Camaroni," a Zanzibari, in the act of stealing a rifle through a hole
which he had cut in the tent for this offence. Life at the Manyuema Camp
362 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. was a l mos t intolerable. Apart from starvation, the people, their manner
Feb. 8. an d surroundings, were the lowest order, and, owing to the mounts of
.
F t B d ^ eca ^ ma ^ er an ^ decomposing vegetation which were allowed to collect
on the paths and close to their dwellings, the place was a hotbed of
disease. Captain Nelson was confined to his bed from sickness for over
two months, and I got blood-poisoning, followed by erysipelas, which
kept me in bed for five weeks. During our illness the chiefs paid us
frequent visits, but always with a view to covet something which they
saw in our tents. Their avarice was unbounded, and they made agree-
ments one day only to be broken the next. After the arrival of Kilonga-
Longa and his force of about 400, including women, children, and slaves,
food became really scarce, therefore the Manyuema were obliged to send
out large caravans to bring m foo... Twelve Zanzibaris who are absent
accompanied these caravans in search of food, and had not returned when
I left the camp with the relic c party. Starvation was so great just before
we left that the native slaves seized one of their comrades, who had gone
some distance from the camp to draw water, cut him in pieces, and
ate him.
In conclusion, I may mention that Captain Nelson and myself did
everything we could to preserve a good feeling with the Manyuema
chiefs and people, and we parted on friendly terms.
T. H. PARKE.
(Surgeon A. M. D.}
To H. M. STANLEY, Esq.,
Commanding E. P. E. Expedition.
The contrast between the sadly-worn men who
reached us from that hot-bed of suffering at Ipoto and
our beautifully sleek and glossy men who had reached
the Albert was most marked. Their flesh was wasted,
their muscles had become shrivelled, their sinews were
shrunk, and their distinctive and peculiar individualities
seemed to have altogether vanished until it had become
a difficult matter to recognise them.
On the 12th of February Lieutenant Stairs and his
column appeared with every section of the boat in good
order. He had been absent twenty -five days, and his
mission had been performed with a sacred regard to his
instructions and without a single flaw.
The evening of that date was remarkable for a dis-
cussion between the head-men and ourselves as to our
future steps. I discovered that all the headmen were
unanimous for proceeding to the Nyanza to launch
the boat and search for news of Emin. My desire was
equally great to obtain news of the Pasha ; nevertheless,
I think very little was required to induce me to
abandon the search for the Pasha to obtain news of
SEARCH FOR PASHA AND BARTTELOT ARRANGED. 363
Major Barttelot, but officers and men were alike unani- isss.
mous in their demand that we sho Id resolve the fate of Feb - 12 -
Emin Pasha. A compromise was finally effected. It was Fort Bodo -
determined that couriers should be sent with our
letters to Major Barttelot, with a map of our route and
such remarks as would be of practical use to him. It
was also decided that Lieutenant Stairs, after two days'
rest, should escort these couriers as far as Ugarrowwa's,
and see them safely across the river, and that on return-
ing he should escort the convalescents, who, too fee'ble to
march, had been housed in that settlement on the 18th
September ; that in order that Lieutenant Stairs should
" participate in the honour of being present at the relief
of Emin Pasha," we should wait for him until the 25th
of March. Meantime we should continue the work of
enlarging our domain for corn and bean planting, to
prevent any scarcity of food while engaged in the
forest.
The distance between Fort Bodo and Ipoto was
seventy-nine miles,* or 158 miles the round journey,
which had occupied Lieutenant Stairs twenty-five days,
at the average of six and one-third miles per day, but
he had reached Ipoto within seven days, and Jephson
and Uledi had accomplished the -distance in the same
time, that is, at an average rate of travel of a little over
eleven miles per day. Now, as Ugarrow^wa was 104
miles beyond Ipoto, or 183 miles from Fort Bodo, it
was estimated that the journey of 366 miles which
Stairs was now about to undertake might be performed
within thirty-four days, or at the rate of ten and three
quarter miles per day. This would be magnificent
travelling, especially in the forest, but as various circum-
stances might protract the period, it was agreed that if
we moved towards the Nyanza on the 25th March, and
as the carriage of the boat would necessitate short stages,
we should travel slowly, that he might have the oppor-
tunity- of overtaking us.
On the morning of the 16th February, at muster, it
was proclaimed that twenty first-class volunteers were
* Seventy-nine miles one way, and eighty-four miles by another way.
364 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. required to convey our letters to Major Barttelot, at
10 reward for each man if they succeeded in reaching
>do * him, because, said I, " You have all combined to demand
that we should find the Pasha first. It is well. But I
feel as anxious about the Major as I do about the Pasha.
We must find both. You who remember what we
suffered must feel what the Major and his friends feel,
in those horrible stretches of unpeopled woods, having
no idea where they are going or what is waiting for
them. You know how grateful we should have been,
had we met anybody who could have warned us of the
hunger and misery we should meet. Therefore every
man who volunteers must be acknowledged as the fittest
for this noble work by everyone here. Master Stairs,
whom you all know as a man who is never tired, and
never says ' enough ' when there is something to be done,
will show you the road as far as Ugarrowwa's, he will
see that you are ferried over with food, and cartridges
sufficient, and when you leave, you must race along
our old road, which you cannot lose, like men running
for a big prize. These letters must be put into the
hands of the Major, that he and your brothers may be
saved. Where are these fifty dollar men ? "
Of course at such times the Zanzibaris are easily
roused to enthusiasm, and every man considers himself a
hero. Over fifty men came to the front challenging any
one to say aught against their manliness or courage, but
they had to undergo a searching criticism and bantering
review from their fellows and officers, their courage,
powers of endurance, activity, dispositions, strength,
soundness of mind and body were questioned, but at last
twenty men satisfactory to Commander and people
received rations, and they were specially enrolled among
the men of merit who for distinguished service were to
be rewarded with varying sums of money, in addition to
their pay, on reaching Zanzibar. Lieutenant Stairs left
for Ipoto and Ugarrowwa's at 9 o'clock with fowls, goats,
corn, and plantain flour rations for the long journey.
On the 18th my left arm, which had been very painful
for four days previously, developed a large glandular
ILLNESS OF MYSELF AND CAPTAIN NELSON. 367
swelling, which our surgeon said would prove to be an isss.
abscess. Feb - 18>
The following is taken from my diary :-
February 19th to March 13th. On Sunday night, the
19th, I was attacked with inflammation of the stomach,
which has been called by Dr. Parke sub-acute gastritis,
of so severe a character that during the first week I had
only a confused recollection of great pain in the arm and
stomach, and general uselessness. Dr. Parke has been
most assiduous in his application to my needs, and
gentle as a woman in his ministrations. For once in my
life every soul around me was at my service, and I found
myself an object of universal solicitude night and day.
My faithful friends, Parke and Jephson, waited, and
watched, and served. Poor Nelson was himself a victim
to ill-health, fevers, debility, eruptions and ulcers, the
effects of his terrible agony at Starvation Camp, but he
would come, sometimes tottering weakly, to express his
sympathy. In the afternoons the Doctor would permit
the headmen to visit me, to convey to the anxious
Zanzibaris their personal opinions and views of my case.
During most of these twenty-three days I have been
under the influence of morphia, and the time has passed
in unconsciousness. But I am now slowly recovering.
Two days ago the abscess, which had become very large,
was pierced, and I am relieved of that pain. Meanwhile
my daily diet has consisted of a pint of milk thanks to
the Balegga cow mixed with water. I am therefore so
feeble as to be scarcely able to move.
During my illness I have to regret the loss of two
good men, Sarmini and Kamwaiya, who have been killed
with arrows, and one of the headmen has been severely
wounded. This occurred during a patrolling tour as far
as the Ihuru, fourteen geographical miles due north
from here. Uledi and a party has discovered the haunts
of the dwarfs and taller aborigines who rob our plantain
groves to be at Alesse and Nderi, fourteen geographical
miles east.
I find that Uledi has captured a Queen of the
Pigmies, who is the wife of the Chief of Indekaru. She
368
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. was brought in to be seen by me with three rings of
Feb. 19. p ii s h ec i i ron around her neck, the ends of which were
' coiled like a watch spring. Three iron rings were
suspended to each ear. She is of a light brown com-
plexion, with broad round face, large eyes, and small but
full lips. She had a quiet modest demeanour, though
her dress was but a narrow fork clout of bark cloth,
THE QUEEN OF THE DWARFS.
Her height is about\ four feet four inches, and her age
may be nineteen or twenty. I notice when her arms
are held against the light, a whity-brown fell on them.
Her skin has not that silky smoothness of touch common
to the Zanzibaris, but altogether she is a very pleasing
little creature.
March 13th to April 1st. By the 25th I was well
OUR FIELD 8 OF CORN. 359
enough to be able to move about a few hundred yards isss,
at a time. My arm was still stiff and I was exceedingly M * rch 25 -
feeble. Nelson has recovered somewhat from his Fprt Bodq *
successive fits of illness. During my convalescence I
have been supported each afternoon to the centre of a
lofty colonnade of trees, through which our road to the
Nyanza leads, where in an easy chair I have passed hours
of reading and drowsing.
It has been a daily delight while helped to my leafy
arcade to observe the rapid change in the growth of
the corn in the fields, and to see how we have been
encroaching upon the forest. Our cultivable area, after
being cleaned, hoed, and planted, was not long left with
its bare brown face naked. On a certain day it became
green with the young corn blades, it had sprouted by
thousands as though at the word of command. Only
yesterday, as it were, we smiled to see the tender white
stalk arched for a spring under a slowly rising clod, and
now the clods have been brushed aside, the arched
stalks have sprung upright, and the virgin plants have
unfolded their tender green crests. Day by day it has
been a wonder how the corn has thriven and grown,
with what vigour the stalks have thickened, enlarged in
leaf, and deepened in green. Side by side in due rank
and order they have risen, the blades have extended
towards one another in loving embrace, until the whole
has become a solid square field of corn, the murmur of
which is like the distant wash of a languid sea over a
pebbly beach.
This is the music to which I listen devoutly, while my
medical friend sits not far off on the watch, and sentries
stand still at each end of the avenue on guard. A
gentle breeze blows over the forest and breathes upon
the corn, causing a universal shiver and motion through-
out, and I sit watching the corn tops sway and nod, and
salute each other, with the beautiful grace and sweet
undertones of many wavelets, until drowsiness over-
comes me and seals my senses, and sleep bears me to
the region of fantasy. As the sun appears low in the
west, and lights the underwood horizontally with mellow
VOL. I. Y
370 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. light, my kind doctor assists me to my feet and props
)- me, as I wend to the Fort, my corn with dancing motion
>do< and waving grace bidding me farewell.
In the warm teeming soil the corn has grown apace
until it has reached a prodigious height, tall as the
underwood of the forest. Only a ^ew weeks ago I
searched amid the clods for a sign of sprouting ; a little
later and I might still have seen a scampering mouse ; a
few days ago it was breast high ; to-day I look up and I
can scarcely touch the point of a rapier-like blade with a
five-foot staff, and a troop of elephants might stand
underneath undetected. It has already flowered ; the
ears, great and swelling, lying snug in their manifold
sheaths, give promise o- an abundant harvest, and I glow
with pleasure at the thought that, while absent, there
need be no anxiety about the future.
I am resolved to-morrow to make a move towards the
Nyanza with the boat. This is the forty -sixth day of
Stairs' absence. I had sent twenty couriers one of
whom returned later to Major Barttelot. Stairs and
his personal attendants numbered seven. I shall leave
forty-nine in fort ; inclusive of Nelson there will be
126 men left to escort the boat to the Nyanza. Total,
201 of advance column remaining out of 389, ex-
clusive of such convalescents as may be obtained at
Ugarrowwa's.
Tippu-Tib has evidently been faithless, and the Major
is therefore working the double stages, some hundreds of
miles behind ; the nineteen couriers are speeding towards
him, and are probably opposite the Nepoko at this date,
and Stairs has found so many men yet crippled with
ulcers that he is unable to travel fast. With 126 men
I attempt the relief of Emin Pasha the second time. The
garrison consists of all those who suffer from debility,
anaemia who were fellow-sufferers with Nelson at
Starvation Camp and leg sores, some of which are
perfectly incurable.
The labour performed about the fort is extensive.
Nelson has an impregnable place. The fields of corn
and beans are thriving, and of the latter I have enjoyed
LIFE AT FORT BODO.
371
a first dish to-day. The plantain groves appear to be
inexhaustible. March 2$ -
Our broad roads extend about half a mile each way. Fort Bod t
Ten scouts patrol the plantations every morning, that
the mischievous pigmies may not destroy the supplies
of the garrison, and that no sudden onsets of natives
may be made upon the field hands while at work.
Surgeon Parke accompanies us to the Nyanza to-
morrow according to his own earnest request. Though
his place is in the fort with the invalids, there are none
WITHIN FORT BODO.
who require greater attention than can be given by
Captain Nelson through his boys, who have been in-
structed in the art of bathing the sores wi . logons of
carbolic acid and water.
Our men on the Sundays have amused themselves
with performing military evolutions after the method
taught by General Matthews at Zanzibar. They are
such capital mimics that his very voice and gesture have
been faithfully imitated.
Life at Fort Bodo, on the whole, has not been un-
pleasant except for Captain Nelson and myself. It is
372 IX DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. true we have fretted and never been free from anxiety
Marc 20. res p ec j n g ^ ne whereabouts and fate of our friends. We
have also been anxious to depart and be doing some
thing towards terminating our labours, but circum-
stances which we cannot control rise constantly to thwart
our aims. We have therefore striven to employ every
leisure hour towards providing unstinted supplies of
food, in the hope that fortune will be good enough to
veer round once in our favour, and bring Barttelot and
our friends Jameson, Ward, Troup, and Bonny, with
their little army of men, to Fort Bodo before our second
return from the Nyanza.
CHAPTER XIV.
TO THE ALBERT NYANZA A SECOND TIME.
Difficulties with the steel hoat African forest craft Splendid capture
of pigmies, and description of the same We cross the Ituri river
Dr. Parke's delight on leaving the forest Camp at Besse Zanzibar!
wit At Nzera-Kum-hill once more Intercourse with the natives
" Malleju," or the " Bearded One," being first news of Emin Visit
from chief Mazamboni and his followers Jephson goes through the
form of friendship with Mazamboni The medicine men, Nestor and
Murabo The tribes of the Congo Visit from chief Gavira A
Mhuma chief The Bavira and Wahuma races The varying African
features Friendship with Mpinga Gavira and the looking-glass
Exposed Uzanza ^ e reach Kavalli The chief produces " Malleju's "
letter Emin's letter Jephson and Parke convey the steel boat to
the lake Copy of letter sent by me to Emin through Jephson
Friendly visits from natives.
ON the 2nd day of April, 1888, after a drizzly rain had isss.
ceased to fall, we filed out at noon with a view to at- A P ril 2 -
tempt a second time to find the Pasha, or to penetrate Forest<
the silence around him. We had now our steel boat in
twelve sections, and the stem and stern being rather
beamy we discovered very soon that a good deal of
cutting with axes and bill-hooks was required to permit
them to pass between the trees. The caravan in single
file, laden with boxes, bales, and baggage, would find no
difficulty ; the narrower sections two feet wide passed
through without trouble, but the plough-shaped stem
and stern pieces soon became jammed between two
colossal trees which compelled a retreat and a detour
through the bush, and this could not be effected without
clearing a passage. It was soon evident that our second
trip to the Nyanza through the forest would consume
some days.
The advance guard scanning the track, and fully
374 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. lessoned in all the crooked ways and wiles of the pigmies
1 4> and aborigines, picked up many a cleverly-hidden skewer
fr m the path. At some points they were freely planted
under an odd leaf or two of phrynium, or at the base of
a log, over which, as over a stile, a wayfarer might
stride and plant his foot deep into a barbed skewer well
smeared with dark poison. But we were too learned
now in the art of African forestcraft, and the natives
were not so skilled in the invention of expedients as to
produce new styles of molestation and annoyance.
The dwarfs' village at the crossing was our next resting-
place, and Inde-mwani was reached on the 4th. The next
day we moved to another dwarfs' village, and in the
neighbouring plantain grove Saat Tato and a few friends,
while collecting a few of the fruit, made a splendid
capture of pigmies. We had four women and a boy,
and in them I saw two distinct types. One evidently
belonged to that same race described as the Akka, with
small, cunning, monkey eyes, close, and deeply set. The
four others possessed large, round eyes, full and pro-
minent, broad round foreheads and round faces, small
hands and feet, with slight prognathy of jaws, figures
well formed, though diminutive, and of a bricky com-
plexion. " Partial roast coffee," " chocolate," " cocoa,"
and " cafe au lait" are terms that do not describe the
colour correctly, but the common red clay brick when
half baked would correspond best in colour to that of the
complexion of these little people. Saat Tato reported
that there were about twenty of them stealing plantains
which belonged to the natives of Indepuya, who were
probably deterred from defending their property by the
rumour of our presence in the woods. The monkey-
eyed woman had a remarkable pair of mischievous orbs,
protruding lips overhanging her chin, a prominent
abdomen, narrow, flat chest, sloping shoulders, long
arms, feet turned greatly inwards and very short lower
legs, as being fitly characteristic of the link long sought
between the average modern humanity and its Darwinian
progenitors, and certainly deserving of being classed as
an extremely low, degraded, almost a bestial type of a
CAPTURE OF WAMBUTTI PIGMIES. 375
human being. One of the others was a woman evidently issa
a mother, though she could not have seen her seventeenth April 4>
year. No fault could be found in the proportion of any Jj^i'.
one member ; her complexion was bright and healthy ;
her eyes were brilliant, round, and large ; her upper lip had
the peculiar cut of that of the Wambutti noticeable in the
woman at Ugarrowwas, and the chiefs wife of Indekaru,
which is the upper edge curving upward with a sharp
angle and dropping perpendicularly, resembling greatly
a clean up and down cut with a curl up of the skin as
though it had contracted somewhat. I believe this to
be as marked a feature of the Wambutti as the full
nether lip is said to be characteristic of the Austrian.
The colour of the lips was pinkish. The hands were
small, fingers delicate and long, but skinny and puckered,
the feet measured seven inches and her height was four
feet four inches.
So perfect were the proportions of this girl-mother
that she appeared at first to be but an undersized
woman, her low stature being but the result of prema-
ture sexual intercourse or some other accidental circum-
stance, but when we placed some of our Zanzibar boys
of fifteen and sixteen years old by her side, and finally
placed a woman of the agricultural aborigines near her,
it was clear to everyone that these small creatures were
a distinct race.
Three hours beyond this great Mbutti village we
reached Barya-Kunya amid a drizzly rain.
On the 8th we reached Indepessu, and two days later
we travelled from the base of Pisgah, along an easterly
path, a new track which led us through the little villages
of Mande to the Ituri river. The natives had all fied
from Mande' and the slopes of Pisgah across the river
with their movable property, and the men were awaiting
events on the left bank, confident that they were beyond
reach. As we emerged into view on the right bank I
was quite struck with the light brown mass the warriors
made against the blackish green of the vegetation behind
them. Had they been of the colour of the Zanzibaris
they would have formed an almost black mass, but they
376 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. resembled in colour the ochreous clay banks of this river.
April 8. They shot a few arrows amongst us across the 150 yards
1 e ' wide stream ; some fell short and others hurtled harm-
lessly by us several yards. In our turn we replied and
a general scamper occurred. Ninety minutes later the
Expedition was across the Ituri by means of the boat.
The vanguard picked up a ten-pound packet of clean
native salt which had been dropped by the natives in
their flight. Salt was a condiment greatly needed, and
we were greatly rejoiced at the prize. We were now in
the territory of the Bakuba, near the clearing of Kande-
kore, which was one of the richest clearings in the forest
of the Upper Congo basin. On the edge of the bank
we were 3,000 feet above the sea.
Three-and-a-half hours' march from the Ituri, we
issued out of the forest, and again the change from
perpetual twilight to brilliant sunlight, and a blue sky
was astonishing, and we all smiled to witness its effects
on the nerves of our gentle friend and companion, the
first son of Erin who had ever viewed the grass lands
of these regions. This was the 289th day of Dr. Parke's
forest life, and the effect of this sudden emergence out
of the doleful shades in view of this enlarged view from
the green earth to the shining and glowing concave of
Heaven caused him to quiver with delight. Deep
draughts of champagne could not have painted his
cheeks with a deeper hue than did this exhilarating
prospect which now met him.
On the road just before leaving the bush we passed a
place where an elephant spear had fallen to the ground,
and buried itself so deep that three men were unable to
heave it up. Such a force, we argued, would have slain
an elephant on the instant.
While sketching Pisgah Mountain in the afternoon
from our first camp in the pasture land, I observed a
cloud approaching it from the N.W., and all the forest
beyond was shaded by its deep shadows, while the
rolling plains still basked in hot sunshine. Presently
another cloud from the S.E. appeared round the southern
extremity of Mazamboni's range, and as it advanced,
THE VILLAGE OF BESSE. 377
spread over the blue sky, and became merged with the isss.
cloud over the forest, and then rain fell.
At an altitude of 3,200 feet above the sea the village
of Besse' is situated, seven hours' march from the Ituri.
Though it was yet early forenoon we camped, the
abundance of good ripe bananas, corn, fowls, sugar-cane,
and banana wine being very tempting, and the distance
to other villages east being unknown. Quite an active
skirmish soon occurred while we were engaged making
ready our quarters. Fetteh, the sole interpreter to the
tribes of the plains, was grievously wounded over the
stomach. The Babesse attempted various means to
molest us as the long grass favoured them, but by post-
ing sharpshooters in the native lookouts in the trees
the knowledge that their tactics were supervised soon
demoralised them.
We had some speech by means of a native of Uganda
with one of these natives, who among his remarks
said, " We are quite assured that you black men are
creatures like ourselves, but what of those white chiefs
of yours ? Whence do they come ? "
" Oh," our man replied, with wonderful facility for
fraudful speech, " their faces change with the birth of
each moon, when the moon is getting full their colour
is dark like our own. They are different from us, as
they came from above originally."
" Ah, true, it must be so," responded the astonished
native, as he brought his hand up to his mouth from
politeness, to cover the mouth that expanded with
surprise.
The more we understand the language of these natives,
the more we are struck with the identity of a common
origin. How could such as these people have ever heard
of such a thing as wit. I heard one native say to a
Zanzibar! who had met more than his match when he
burst out so impatiently at one who had staggered
against him,
" Such a fool as thou wast surely never seen else-
where ? "
To which the native replied, with a benevolent smile,
378 IN DAE REST AFRICA.
1888. " Ay, it is my lord, who is the sole possessor of
April 12. wisdonL
"Ah, but you are wickedness itself" (personified).
" I must not deny it, for all goodness is with thee."
It is a common reply among a certain class of white
folks when one is accused of being naughty, to reply to
the accuser that he is a gentleman, but it must be
admitted that the African reply is not inferior in
politeness.
A little east of Besse we lost the native track, and
were obliged to strike across country, steering straight
. for Undussuma Peak which now began to lift itself into
view, over the swells of grass-land that spread in great
waves towards its foot. The sun was fearfully hot, and
as the march was mainly through tall grass, we were
greatly fatigued. In the afternoon we reached a wooded
hollow near a pellucid cool stream, which had its birth-
place somewhere among the slopes of Undussuma Eange
now distant about five miles.
On the 14th, after a march of six hours, we were
camped on the spur of Nzera Kum hill, and before us
was the same scene which on the 10th and llth of
December witnessed our struggles for mastery with
Mazamboni and his tribe. So far our experiences on
this journey were very different. We saw no leaping
exulting warriors, nor heard a single menace or war-cry ;
but, as we intended to halt here a day, it was necessary
to know what to expect, and we despatched our Mganda
interpreter to hail the natives, who were seated afar off
on the hilltops looking down upon us. At 5 P.M. after
several patient efforts, they were induced to descend
and approach, and they finally entered our camp. The
process of establishing a friendship then was easy. We
could look into one another's faces, and read as in a
book what each thought of the other. We mutually
exchanged views, wherein they learned that we only
needed a free passage to the Lake unmolested, that we
had not appeared as enemies, but strangers seeking a
halting-place for the night, to pursue our road the next
day without disturbance. They pleaded, as an excuse
" MALLEJU? OR THE u BEARDED ONE." 379
for their former behaviour, that they were assured we isss.
were Wara Sura (soldiers of Kabba Kega) who periodi- April u *
cally visited their country, devastated their land, and ^SmT
carried off their cattle.
When we were both convinced that friendship was
possible, that our former misunderstanding should not
interfere with our future relations, they heard the
mystery of our presence explained, that we were only
travelling to discover a white chief, who years ago was
reported to be somewhere near the sea of Unyoro. Had
they ever heard of such a man ?
They answered eagerly, " About two moons after you
passed us when you came from the Nyanza a white
man called ' Malleju,' or the Bearded One, reached
Katonza's in a big canoe, all of iron.
" Mother ! however could she float ; and in the middle
of it there rose a tall black tree, and out of it came
smoke and sparks of fire, and there were many many
strange people aboard, and there were goats running
about as in a village square, and fowls in boxes with
bars, and we heard the cocks crow as merrily as they do
among our millet. Malleju with a deep deep voice
asked about you his brother ? What Katonza said to
him we do not know, but Malleju went away in the big
iron canoe, which sent as much smoke up into the air as
though she was on fire. Have no doubt you will find
him soon ; Mazamboni shall send his runners to the
Lake, and by to-morrow's sunset Katonza shall be told
of the arrival of Malleju \s brother."
This was the first news we had heard of Emin Pasha,
and it was with the view of this news spreading abroad,
and for preparing the natives for the irruption of
strangers out of the unknown west, that I had sent
couriers from Zanzibar in February, 1887. Had Emin,
who expected us December 15th, but taken the trouble
to have sent his steamers a nine-hours' steaming
distance from his station of Mswa, we should have met
with his people December 14th, been spared five days'
fighting, a four months' loss of time, and on or about
the 15th of March I should have been within the pali-
suma.
380 JN DARKEST AFfilCA.
1888. sades of Yambuya in time to save Barttelot from his
14 ' assassin, Jameson from his fatal fever attack, Troup from
the necessity of being invalided home, Ward from his
wholly useless mission to St. Paul de Loanda, and Mr.
Bonny from days of distress at Banalya.
The next day was a severe one for me. All the
talking was levelled at me, and I was imprisoned in my
chair from dawn to dusk by crowds of Bavira agri-
culturists and Wahuma shepherds and herdsmen, chiefs
and slaves, princes and peasants, warriors and women.
It was impolitic to stir from the close circle which the
combined oligarchy and democracy of Undussuma had
formed around me. What refreshments were taken
were handed to me over the heads of nobles and serfs
five deep. My chair was in the centre, three umbrella
bearers relieved one another the sun ran his course
from east to west ; it glowed at noon hours with the
intense heat known in torrid deserts, from three to five
it scorched my back, then it became cooler, but until
the circles broke and were dissolved by the approaching
cold accompanying the dusk, I was a martyr to the
cause of human brotherhood.
At a very early hour Mazamboni appeared outside of
the zeriba with an imposing retinue of followers. He
was escorted to the middle of the camp with every
mark of respect, officers gracefully bowing their welcome,
Zanzibaris and Soudanese, who had chased him and his
legions over the hills in December, looking as innocent
as though they had never tasted meat and smiling a
summer greeting. Our best mats were spread under a
sickly dwarf tree for the convenience of the august
guest, ivory horns gave forth mellow blares, reminding
me of the imperial court of the Kamessean autocrat of
Uganda, Usoga, and the island archipelagoes of the
Victorian Sea. Nothing was omitted that experience
with a thousand chiefs of dark Africa had taught me
was necessary for lighting up a swarthy face with
humour, pleasure, content, and perfect trust. Mazam-
boni accepted every attention as his by right Divine,
but no smile or word greeted us. Was the man deaf and
CHIEF MAZAMBONI VISITS US. 381
dumb ? No ; he spoke briefly and low to his sub -chiefs, and isss.
his satellites roared with bull voices, as though I needed Apnl 15>
an auricular trumpet to hear, and the sounds stunned
me as though they were rung with a trip-hammer.
"My friends," said I, " my head will crack if you go
on thus ; besides, you know wisdom is precious. Why
should the herd hear State policy ? "
" Ah, truly ! " said one sage with a beard as white as
the father of the Commons ought to have. Nestor
lowered his voice, and garrulously rehearsed the history
of the land, described the effect created upon it by the
column's approach in December, the hasty councils that
were held, and the rash resolution they had adopted,
confessing that when they heard there were white men
with the strangers they suspected they were wrong
in continuing their hostile attitude, but the youthful
warriors had been too impetuous and overruled the
cautious counsels of the ancients of their tribe ; that when
they had seen us return from the Nyanza and depart in
peace towards the forest, they then knew that the Wara
Sura, as we were believed to be, would never have re-
turned so soon from their own Lake, but would have
crossed the Semliki to their own country, and then,
when they had heard of Malleju, the white chief of the
iron canoe, was seeking for us, they were convinced they
had been all wrong." " But never mind," said we,
" the strangers will return from the Kivira (forest),
and we shall make it up with them. If they seek our
friendship they shall have it, and Mazamboni's blood
shall mingle with that of their chief ; and we shall be
one people, and lo ! you have come, and the dreams of
our wise men have become real facts. Mazamboni sits
as a brother by the side of the white chief; let us see
the blood mingle, and never a cloud shall come between
you while you are in the land ; the belongings of Ma-
zamboni are yours, his warriors, wives, children, the
land and all that stands on the face of it are yours.
Have I said well, oh, warriors ? "
"Well and truly you have spoken," murmured the
circles.
382 IN DARKEST. AFRICA.
1888. " Shall Mazamboni be a son of ' Bula Matari ? '
" Shall there be true peace between us and the
strangers ? "
" Yea," came in an emotional shout from the mass.
Then the mutual right hands of my son, Mr, Jephson,
who volunteered to be sacrificed, were clasped crosswise
over the crossed knees, the native Professor of Medicine
made a slight incision in his arm until the red blood
dyed it. My Professor of Secret Ritualism caused the
dark red blood of Mazamboni to well out of the
vein, and as the liquid of life flowed and dropped over
the knees, the incantations were commenced by the sage
with the white beard, and as he shook the pebbles in
the magic gourd at the range of the peak opposite, and
at the horse-shoe range yonder in the plains, and to
eastward and westward of the valley, he delivered his
terrible curses from the summit of Nzera-Kum, and all
men listened unto him with open lips :
" Cursed is he who breaks his plighted vow.
' fc Cursed is he who nourisheth secret hate.
" Cursed is he who turneth his back against his
friend.
" Cursed is he who in the day of war denieth his
brother.
" Cursed is he who deviseth evil to his friend whose
blood has become one with his own.
" May the itch make him loathsome, and the hair of
his head be lost by the mange ; may the adder wait for
him by the path, and the lion meet him on his way ;
may the leopard in the darkness besiege his house, and
his wife when she draweth water from the stream, be
seized ; may the barbed arrow pin his entrails, and the
sharp spear be dyed in his vitals ; may sickness waste his
strength, and his days be narrowed with disease ; may
his limbs fail him in the day of battle, and his arms
stiffen with cramps," and so on, invoking every evil and
disease most dreaded, and the Zanzibari Professor of
Secret Ritualism, somewhat dumbfounded at first at
the series of curses delivered so volubly by Nestor,
THE MEDICINE MEN, NESTOR AND MURABO. 383
seized his magic gourd, and shook it at the hills and the isss.
valley, at the head of Mazamboni with awful solemnity ; Apnl 14>
at Nestor himself, and the awe-struck following around,
and outdid Nestor, from perverted ambition, by frenzy,
voice, and gesture, in harmony with it ; his eyes rolled
wildly, foam came from his lips ; he summoned every
blight to fall upon the land and its productions, every
damnable agency in his folk-lore to hound Mazamboni
for ever ; every dark and potent spirit out of the limbo
of evil imagination to torture him in his waking and
sleeping hours, until his actions were so fantastic, his
denunciation so outrageous, his looks so like one
possessed with a demon, that everyone, native and
Zanzibari, broke out into uncontrollable laughter, which
caused Murabo, our " medicine man," to sober instantly,
and to say in Swahili to us, with a conceited shake of
the head,
" Ay I master, how do you like that style for high
acting ? " which reminded me of nothing so much as
Hamlet out-ranting Laertes.
Mazamboni, though undoubtedly paramount chief of
Undussuma, seems to be governed by an unwritten con-
stitution. His ministers also are his principal kinsmen,
who conduct foreign and home policy even in his
presence, so that in affairs of government his voice is
seldom heard. Most of the time he sat silent and
reserved one might almost say indifferent. Thus this
unsophisticated African chief has discovered that
whether from intuition or traditional custom it is hard
to say it is best to divide government. If the prin-
ciple has been derived from custom, it proves that from
the Albert Nyanza down to the Atlantic the thousand
tribes of the Congo basin spring from one parent tribe,
nation, or family. The similarity in other customs,
physiognomy, and roots of languages, lend additional
proofs to substantiate this.
We discovered that the chiefs, as well as the lesser
folk, were arrant beggars, and too sordid in mind to
recognise a generous act. Though a peace was strenu-
ously sought by all, yet the granting of it seemed to
384
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. them to be only a means of being enriched with gifts
fr m the stran g ers - Mazamboni, even after a long day's
work, could only be induced to give more than a calf
and five goats as a return for a ten-guinea rug, a bundle
of brass wire, and ivory horns from the forest. The
chief of Urumangwa and Bwessa, that flourishing settle-
ment which in December
had so astonished us with
its prosperity, likewise
thought that he was ex-
ceedingly liberal by en-
dowing us with a kid and
two fowls.
Among our visitors to-
day were Gavira, the chief
of the Eastern Bavira,
who proclaimed from a hill
that the land lay at our
feet when we were return-
ing from the Lake ; and
also a Mhuma chief, who
wore unblushingly the
fine scarlet cloth of which
we had been mulcted in
December to buy peace.
He never offered a return
gift so long deferred.
We discovered that
there were two different
and distinctly differing
races living in this region
in harmony with each
other, one being clearly of
Indo- African origin, possessing exceedingly fine features,
aquiline noses, slender necks, small heads, with a grand
and proud carriage ; an old, old race, possessing splendid
traditions, and ruled by inflexible custom which would
admit of no deviation. Though the majority have a
nutty-brown complexion, some even of a rich dark brown,
the purest of their kind resemble old ivory in colour, and
ONE OF MAZAMBONl's WARRIORS.
THE WAHUMA AND BAVIRA TRIBES. 385
their skins have a beautifully soft feel, as of finest satin, -isss.
These confine themselves solely to the breeding of cattle, Apnl 14 *
and are imbued with a supercilious contempt for the "
hoemen, the Bavira, who are strictly agricultural. No
proud dukeling in England could regard a pauper with
more pronounced contempt than the Wahuma profess
for the Bavira. They will live in the country of the
Bavira, but not in their villages ; they will exchange
their dairy produce for the grain and vegetables of the
hoemen, but they will never give their daughters in
marriage but to a Mhuma born. Their sons may possess
children by Bavira women, but that is the utmost con-
cession. Now in this I discover the true secret of the
varying physiognomies, and the explanations in the
variation of facial types.
We have the true negroidal cast- of features in the
far-away regions of West Africa, with which this proud
high-caste race could not possibly come in contact during
many centuries ; we have the primitive races of the
forest, the Akkas, Wambutti, Watwa, and Bushmen, of
which the Wambutti are by far the handsomest ; have
the Zulus, the Mafitte, Watuta, Wahha, Warundi,
Wanya-Ruanda, semi-Ethiopic ; we have the Ethiopic,
slightly degraded, except in the aristocratic families, as
in the Wahuma, or, as they are variously called, Waima,
Wachwezi, Wawitu, and the Wataturu, who repre-
sent two human streams, one coming from Ethiopia
by way of South-East Galla into Unyoro and the high
pastoral lake regions, and the other flowing direct south.
The Victoria Lake lies between these sections of superior
African humanity.
A Bavira chief complained to me of the haughty
contempt with which the Bavira were regarded by the
Wahuma, in just such words as these : " They call us
hoemen, and laugh to scorn the sober regularity with
which we, tilling the dark soil, live through our lives
in honest labour. They sweep round on foraging
excursions, and know no loved and fixed home ; they
settle down wherever they are tempted (by pasture), and
when there (is trouble) they build a house in another spot."
VOL. i. z
386 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. But to my narrative, as I may deal with the subject
16. f ur ther in a special chapter. On the 16th, furnished by
Mazamboni with twelve guides, escorted by Gavira and
fifty warriors, accompanied by a long line of new friends
behind the rear guard, assisted by more than a hundred
carriers, we marched to the territory of Gavira, to the
village where we had rested in the naked hill-village,
after a terrible day of excitement, on the 12th of
December. We were now a peaceful procession, with
somewhat of a triumphal character. For at every
village we appeared the warriors came out and hailed
us with friendly greetings, and at Makukuru, the name
of the village which we already knew, the women lu-lu-
lued. From this settlement in Uzanza we enjoyed an
extensive view, embracing all eastward to the brow of
the high land overlooking the gulf of the Albert Lake
westward as far as Pisgah, six marches distant north-
ward to the cones of Bemberri, southward the hills of
the Balegga rose, a mile off.
The Chief of the Bavira is known as Gavira an he-
reditary title, though his name is Mpinga. He was a
pleasant little man, but stingy ; and when not engaged
in State councils, talkative. He and his tribe begged
for friendship similar to that which was established with
Mazamboni ; we were only too willing to accede the
conditions being that he should be hospitable to the
Expedition on its journeys through his country. Having
halted one day at Mazamboni's, it was necessary that we
should do equal honour to Gavira ; and as this place was
only two short marches, or one long march, to the
Nyanza, we agreed.
In the evening, two natives arrived from Mbiassi, of
the tribe Ba-biassi, chief of the district of Kavalli, which
extended, in a broad strip, down to the Nyanza, who in-
formed me that their chief possessed a small packet,
covered with dark cloth, for me, which had been given
him by Mpigwa, of Nyamsassi, who had received it from
a white man known to them as Malleju.
We were surrounded on the next day by hundreds of
friendly people, who seemed unable to gaze sufficiently
FRIENDSHIP WITH MPINGA. 387
at us. They therefore placidly squatted on their isss.
haunches, quietly contemplating our movements ; the Apnl 17<
younger members were deputed by the old to gather
fuel and sweet potatoes, and to bring millet grain to
camp. For trifling gifts, the Zanzibaris obtained their
most devoted service for building their huts, and carry-
ing water and attending to their fires, grinding their
millet grain into flour ; while our men contentedly sat
down, encouraging them to hard labour with a friendly
nod and bland smile, some bit of iron-work, a pinch
of beads, a cowrie or two, or a wristlet of brass wire.
Every man picked up a warm-hearted, and ingenious
brother ; and, excepting in cooking, the natives were
admitted into the privilege of fast friendship.
The chief Gavira was robed, in the afternoon, in
bright scarlet cloth of first-class quality, and escorted
around the camp, with all honour, by our headmen, who
introduced him to the various messes with high tribute
to his good disposition. He was afterwards shown a
mirror, at which he and his elders expressed extra-
ordinary astonishment and fright. They took the
reflection of their own faces to be a hostile tribe ad-
vancing from the earth towards them, and started to
run to a safer distance ; but instinctively they halted, as
they saw that we did not stir. They then returned on
tip-toe, as if to ask what that sudden vision of black
faces could possibly have been ; for the mirror had
been dropped on its face into the case. In answer
to their mute appeal, it was opened again, and they
gazed at it fixedly. They whispered to one another
" Why, the faces resemble our own ! " They were told
that what they saw was a reflection of their own remark-
ably prepossessing features ; and Mpinga, with pride,
blushed darkly at the compliment. Perceiving that he
could be trusted with it without shock to his nerves, it
was put into his hand ; and it was amusing to see how
quickly personal vanity increased ; his elders crowded
around him, and all grouped around and were pleased to
note how truthfully the mirror reflected each facial
characteristic. " See that scar it is just and exact ;
388 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. but lo ! look at your broad nose, Mpinga ; why, it is
18 ' perfect ! Ay, and look at that big feather ; it actually
waves ! It is too too wonderful ! What can it be
made of? It is like water ; but it is not soft by any
means ; and on the back it is black. Ah, but we have
seen a thing to-day that our fathers never saw, eh ? "
Uzanza exposed, and open to every blast from each
quarter of heaven, will be remembered for a long time.
As the sun set, the cold winds blew from lake ward, and
smote us sorely ; we were so accustomed to the equable
temperature of the forest, and so poor in clothing. One
officer armed himself with his waterproof; another put
on his ulster ; and still the wind penetrated to the
marrow ; and there was no warmth but in the snug bee-
hive huts of the Bavira whither we retired.
Instead of pursuing along our first course to the Lake,
we struck north-east to the village of Kavalli, where the
mysterious packet was said to be. The grass was short
cropped by numerous herds of cattle, and covered every
inch and made it resemble a lawn, save where the land
dipped down into the miniature canons, which had been
scooped out by centuries of rain.
As we traversed the smiling land, hailed, and greeted,
and welcomed, by the kindly Bavira, we could not forbear
thinking how different all this was from the days when
we drove through noisy battalions of Bavira, Babiassi,
and Balegga, each urging his neighbours, and whooping
and hallooing every one to our extermination, with the
quick play of light on crowds of flashing spears, and
yard-long arrows sailing through the air to meet us ; and
now we had 157 Bavira actually in front of the advance
guard, as many behind the rear guard, while our 90
loads had been distributed among voluntary carriers who
thought it an honour to be porters to the same men whom
they had hounded so mercilessly a few months previous.
Soon after the arrival of the now numerous column
before the thorny zeriba of Kavalli, the chief, a hand-
some young Mhuma, with regular features, tall ; slender,
and wonderfully composed in manner, appeared, to show
us where we might camp. To such as chose to avail
WE REACH KAVALLL
389
themselves of shelter in his village he accorded free per- isss.
mission ; and on being asked for the packet of Malleju, A ^ ril l f-
he produced it ; and, as he handed it to me, said that Kavalh ' 8 -
only his two young men, of all the country, knew that
he possessed it ; and anxiously asked if he had not done
an excellent thing in keeping the secret safe.
KAVALLF, CHIEF OF THE BA-BIASSI.
Untying the cover, which was of American oil-cloth, I
found the following letter :
DEAR SIR,
Eumours having been afloat of white men having made their
apparition somewhere south of this Lake, I have come here in quest of
news. A start to the furthest end of the Lake, which I could reach by
390 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
!888. steamer, has been without success, the people being greatly afraid of
April 18. Kabba Rega people, and their chiefs being under instructions to conceal
Kavalli's whatever the y know -
To-day, however, has arrived a man from Chief Mpigwa, of Nyamsassi
country, who tells me that a wife of the said chief has seen you at
Undussuma, her birthplace, and that his chief volunteers to send a letter
of mine to you. I send, therefore, one of our allies, Chief Mogo, with the
messenger to Chief Mpisrwa's, requesting him to send Mogo and this
letter, as well as an Arabic one, to you, or to retain Mogo and send the
letter ahead.
Be pleased, if this reaches you, to rest where you are, and to inform me
by letter, or one of your people, of your wishes. I could easily come to
Chief Mpigwa, and my steamer and boats would bring you here. At the
arrival of your letter or man, I shall at once start for Nyamsassi, and
from there we could concert our further designs.
Beware of Kabba Rega's men ! He has expelled Captain Casati.
.Believe me, dear Sir, to be
The letter was translated to our men, upon hearing
which, they became mad with enthusiasm ; nor were the
natives of Kavalli less affected, though not with such
boisterous joy, for they perceived that the packet
they had guarded with such jealous care was the cause
of this happiness.
Food poured in gratuitously from many chiefs, and 1
directed Mbiassi to inform the districts around that a
contribution from each tribe or section would be gladly
received.
On the 20th, I despatched Mr. Jephson and Surgeon
Parke, with 50 rifles and two native guides of Kavalli,
to convey the steel boat, Advance, down to Lake Albert.
I am informed by the guides that Mswa station was
distant two days only, by boat sailing along the western
shore. Mr. Jephson was entrusted with the following
letter to Emin Pasha :
* When, after reaching Zanzibar, I read Emin Pasha's letter to the
Editor of Petermann's ' Mitteilungen ' (see No. 4 of the ' Gotha Geog.
Journal '), dated 25th March, 1888 (the same date that the above letter
was written), which concluded with the significant words : " If Stanley
does not come soon, we are lost," most curious thoughts came into my
mind which the intelligent reader will find no difficulty in guessing
Happily, however, the Pasha kept his own secret until 1 was far away
from Bagamoyo, and I was unable to inquire from him personally what
were his motives for not coming to Kavalli, December 14th, 1887, the
date he expected us; for remaining silent two months and a half in his
own stations after that date, and then writing two such letters as the
one above and that to Petermann's Magazine on the same date.
LETTER TO EMIN PASHA." 391
DEAR SIR - A P ril th > 1888 - 1888.
Your letter was put into my hands by Chief Mbiassi, of Kavalli '
(on the plateau), the day before yesterday, and it gave us all great Kav)
pleasure.
I sent a long letter to you from Zanzibar by carriers to Uganda,
informing you of my mission and of my purpose. Lest you may not
have received it, I will recapitulate in brief its principal contents. It
informed you first that, in compliance with instructions from the Eelief
Committee of London, I was leading an Expedition for your relief. Half
of the fund necessary was subscribed by the Egyptian Government, the
other half by a few English friends of yours.
It also informed you that the instructions of the Egyptian Government
were to guide you out of Africa if you were willing to leave Africa ; if
not, then I was to leave such ammunition as we had brought with us for
you, and you and your people were then to consider yourselves as out of
the service of Egypt, and your pay was to cease upon such notification
being given by you. If you were willing to leave Africa, then the pay of
yourself, officers and men, was to continue until you had landed in Egypt.
It further informed you that you yourself was promoted from Bey to
Pasha.
It also informed you that I proposed, on account of the hostility of
Uganda, and political reasons, to approach you by way of the Congo, and
make Kavalli my objective point.
I presume you have not received that letter, from the total ignorance
of the natives at Kavalli about you, as they only knew of Mason's visit,
which took place ten years ago.
We first arrived here after some desperate fighting on the 14th Decem-
ber last. We stayed two days on the shore of the Lake near Kavalli,
inquiring of every native that we could approach if they knew of you, and
were always answered in the negative. As we had left our boat a month's
march behind, we could get no canoe by fair purchase or force, we resolved
to return, obtain our boat, and carry it to the Nyanza. This we have
done, and in the meantime we constructed a little fort fifteen days' march
from here, and stored such goods as we could not carry, and marched
here with our boat for a second trial to relieve you. This time the most
violent natives have received us with open arms, and escorted us by
hundreds on the way. The country is now open for a peaceful march
from Nyamsassi to our fort.
Now I await your decision at Nyamsassi. As it is difficult to supply
rations to our people on the Nyanza plain, I hope we shall not have to
wait long for it. On the plateau above there is abundance of food and
cattle, but on the lower plain, bordering the Nyanza, the people are
mainly fishermen.
If this letter reaches you before you leave your place, I should advise
you to bring in your steamer and boats, rations sufficient to subsist us
while we await your removal, say about 12,000 or 15,000 Ibs. of grain,
millet, or Indian corn, &c., which, if your steamer is of any capacity, you
can easily bring.
If you are already resolved on leaving Africa, I would suggest that
you should bring with you all your cattle, and every native willing to
follow you. Nubar Pasha hoped you would bring all your Makkaraka,
and leave- not one behind if you could help it, as he would retain them
all in the service.
The letters from the Ministry of War, and from Nubar Pasha, which
I bring, will inform you fully of the intention of the Egyptian Govern-
ment, and perhaps you had better wait to see them before taking any
392
IN DARKEST AFfilCA.
1888.
April 18.
Kavalli's.
action. I simply let yon know briefly about the intentions of the
Government, that you may turn the matter over in your mind, and be
enabled to come to a decision.
I hear you have abundance of rattle with you ; three or four milk
cows would be very grateful to us if you can bring them in your steamer
and boats.
I have a number of letters, some books and maps for you, and a
packet for Captain Casati. I fear to send them by my boat, lest you
should start from your place upon some native rumour of our having
arrived here, and you should miss her. Besides, I am not quite sure
that the boat will reach you; I therefore keep them until I am assured
they can be placed in your hands safely.
We shall have to forage far and near for food while we await your
attendance at Nyamsassi, but you may depend upon it we shall endeavour
to stay here until we see you.
All with me join in sending you our best wishes, and are thankful that
you are safe and well.
Believe me, dear Pasha,
Your most obedient servant,
HENRY M. STANLEY.
Commanding Eelief Expedition
His Excellency EMIN PASHA,
Governor of Equatorial Provinces, &c., &c., &c.
During our halt at Kavalli several hundred natives
from the districts round about paid us friendly visits,
and the chiefs and elders
tendered their submission to
me. They said the country
was mine, and whatever my
commands might be, would
be promptly done. By the
ready way food was brought
in, there was no reason to
doubt their sincerity, though
as yet there was no necessity
to take it too literally. So
long as we were not starving,
nothing could happen to
disturb the peaceful rela-
tions commenced with Ma-
zamboni. According to my
means each chief received a
present of cloth, beads, cow-
ries, and wire. Mbiassi fur-
nished me with a quart of
milk daily in a wooden bowl of this pattern.
MILK VESSEL OF THE WAHUMA.
CHAPTER XV.
THE MEETING WITH EMIN PASHA.
Our camp at Bundi Mbiassi, the chief of Kavalli The Balegga
granaries Chiefs Katonza and Komubi express contrition The
kites at Badzwa A note from Jephson Emin, Casati and Jephson
walk into our camp at old Kavalli Descriptions of Emin Pasha
and Captain Casati The Pasha's Soudanese Our Zanzibaris The
steamer Khedive Baker and the Blue Mountains Drs. Junker and
Felkin's descriptions of Emin Proximity of Kabba Eega Emin and
the Equatorial Provinces Dr. Junker's report of Emin -I discuss
with Emin our future proceedings Captain Casati's plans Our
camp and provisions at Nsabe Kabba Eega's treatment of Captain
Casati and Mohammed Biri Mabruki gored by a buftalo Eiuin
Pasha and his soldiers My propositions to Emin and his answer
Emin's position Mahommet Achrnet The Congo State The
Foreign Office despatches.
ON the 25th we departed from Kavalli and camped at isss.
Bundi, at an altitude of 4,900 feet above the sea. The April 25.
village proper was situated 400 feet higher, on the crest Bundl *
of one of those ranges of hills which form the dividing-
line between the Congo basin and that of the Nile.
From its folds westerly escaped the first infant streams
which flowed into East Ituri. On the other side of the
narrow rocky spine issued streams which dropped into
the gulf of the Albert. Our camp was situated on the
very brow of the plateau, in full view of a large portion
of the south end of the Albert.
Mbiassi, the handsome chief of Kavalli, accompanied
us to do the honours of his tribe to his guests. He
commanded the people of Bundi to hurry forward an
ample .contribution to the camp, and also despatched
messengers to the redoubtable Komubi, chief of the
Eastern Balegga, who seemed to be considered by these
stubborn foes of Kabba Kega as their " Only General,"
394 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. with a message not to lag behind in supplying with
25. f ooc j a man? W h m ight be induced to lend his aid in
Qdl ' punishing Kabba Kega some day. Mbiassi, commonly
called Kavalli by his people, after his district, was a
diplomat.
On the 26th we descended the plateau slope once
more in 2 hours 45 minutes and at the foot of it we
were quartered in the Balegga village of Badzwa, 2,300
feet below Bundi camp. The Balegga had decamped,
but as it was Kavalli's property, he assumed charge, and
distributed corn from its granaries, according to the
needs of our united followers, sufficient for five days'
rations.
Messengers from Katonza, the chief who had declined
our friendship on December 14th, who had refused our
proffered gifts, who had sent his men to throw arrows
into our bivouac of the 16th, and murdered our two
sick men, came to say that he was " dying " to see me.
He had now heard that Mazamboni, Gavira, Kavalli,
and many others were hand-and-glove with the strangers
who had humbly begged a drink of water from his
people, and he had hastened to make reparation, like
Shimei the Benjamite. Before I could frame an answer,
stalwart Komubi, the " only general," had descended
from the Balegga Hills with a white cow, several goats,
and bundles of sweet potatoes, besides many jars of
potent beer. It was Komubi and his stubborn fellows
who had clung to the rear guard on the 13th December
with such persistency, and had attempted a night
attack. He now frankly came to express contrition and
sorrow that he had mistaken us for Kabba Rega's
bandits, and to surrender his country wholly into my
hands, and his life, if I so wished it. With this bold
chieftain we made friends quickly enough, and after a
lengthy interview parted. To Katonza we replied that
we would think of his message.
I now turn to the diary form.
August 27th. Halt at Badzwa. The kites are very
bold in this neighbourhood. Seeing their daring, we
amused ourselves with putting pieces of meat on the
NOTE RECEIVED FROM JEPHSON. 395
roof of a hut within arm's length of a man standing by, isss.
and each time the kite succeeded in escaping with the April 27 -
meat, as the bird, sailing and wheeling round the spot, Badzwa '
seemed to know when the attention was relaxed, and
that moment dropped plump upon the meat, and sailed
away with it fast gripped before the outstretched hand
could seize him.
Our hunter, " Three o'clock," went out, and returned
with the meat of a fine kudu he had shot.
April 28th. Halt. Wadi Mabruki, another hunter,
went out this morning to compete at game-hunting with
" Three o'clock," and in the afternoon he and his followers
brought three young roan antelope.
April 29th. At 8 A.M., as we were about to break
camp ro march to the Lake, a native guide appeared with
a note from Jephson, dated April 23rd, which stated
that he had safely reached Mswa, a station of Emin
Pasha's, and that messengers had been despatched by
the Commandant, Shukri Agha, to apprise Emin Pasha
of our appearance on the lake. A basket of onions a
gift from Shukri Agha accompanied the note.
At 9 A.M. we set out for the Lake. Two hours later
we were camped about a quarter of a mile from the
shore, not far from the bivouac ground occupied by us
on the 16th December, and on the site of old Kavalli, as
the chief showed us. We had five days' rations of grain
with us, and meat could be procured from the plain
behind us, as it swarmed with large game of various
kinds.
From my tent-door, at 4.30 P.M., I saw a dark object
loom up on the north-east horizon of the lake. I thought
it might be a native canoe, or perhaps the steel boat
Advance returning, but a binocular revealed the dimen-
sions of a vessel much larger than a boat or canoe could
possibly be, and presently a dark puff of smoke issuing
from it declared her to be a steamer. An hour later we
could .distinguish a couple of boats in tow, and at
6.30 P.M. the steamer dropped anchor in the baylet of
Nyamsassi, in shore of the island of that name. Scores
of our people were on the beach in front of our camp
896 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. firing guns, and waving signals, but though we were
20< only two miles from the island, no one appeared to
NyanzL observe US.
Ardent messengers were therefore sent along the shore
to inform the party on board of our presence, and these
were, unhappily, so exuberant, that as they fired their
rifles to give notice, they were fired at in return by the
Soudanese, who naturally enough took the wild figures
for Kabba Rega's people. However, no harm was done ;
the boat's crew distinguished their comrades' cries, the
word was passed that the people on shore were friends,
and the boat was made ready to convey our visitors to
the beach near the camp. At eight o'clock, amid great
rejoicing, and after repeated salutes from rifles, Emin
Pasha himself walked into camp, accompanied by Captain
Casati and Mr. Jephson, and one of the Pasha's officers.
I shook hands with all, and asked which was Emin
Pasha ? Then one rather small, slight figure, wearing
glasses, arrested my attention by saying in excellent
English, " I owe you a thousand thanks, Mr. Stanley ; I
really do not know how to express my thanks to you."
" Ah, you are Emin Pasha. Do not mention thanks,
but come in and sit down. It is so dark out here we
cannot see one another."
At the door of the tent we sat, and a wax candle threw
light upon the scene. I expected to see a tall thin mili-
tary-looking figure, in faded Egyptian uniform, but in-
stead of it I saw a small spare figure in a well-kept fez
and a clean suit of snowy cotton drilling, well-ironed and
of perfect fit. A dark grizzled beard bordered a face of a
Magyar cast, though a pair of spectacles lent it some-
what an Italian or Spanish appearance. There was not a
trace on it of ill-health or anxiety ; it rather indicated
good condition of body and peace of mind. Captain
Casati, on the other hand, though younger in years,
looked gaunt, care-worn, anxious, and aged. He like-
wise was dressed in clean cottons, with an Egyptian fez
for a head-covering.
Brief summaries of our incidents of travel, events in
Europe, occurrences in the Equatorial Provinces, and
EM IN AND CAPT. CAS ATI AEEIVE AT OUR CAMP. 399
matters personal, occupied the best part of two hours, isss.
after which, to terminate the happy meeting, five half- April 29
pint bottles of champagne a present from my friend
Greshoff, of Stanley Pool were uncorked and duly drank
to the continued good healths of Emin Pasha and Cap-
tain Casati.*
The party were conducted to the boat, which conveyed
them to the steamer.
April 30th. Marched Expedition to Nsabe, a fine dry
grassy spot, fifty yards from Lake and about three miles
from Nyamsassi Island. As we passed the anchorage of
the steamer Khedive, we found a detachment of the
Pasha's Soudanese drawn up on the Lake shore on parade
to salute us with music. The Pasha was dressed in his
uniform coat, and appeared more of a military man than
last night.
Our Zanzibaris, by the side of these upright figures,
seemed altogether a beggarly troop, and more naked
than ever. But I was not ashamed of them. It was by
their aid, mean as they appeared, that we had triumphed
over countless difficulties, and though they did not
understand drill, nor could assume a martial pose, the
best of these Soudanese soldiers were but children to
them for the needs of a Eelief Expedition. After this
little ceremony was over I delivered to the Pasha thirty-
one cases of Remington ammunition, and I went aboard
the steamer, where I breakfasted on millet cake fried in
syiup, and a glass of new milk.
The steamer proved to be the Khedive, built by
Samuda Brothers in 1869, and is about ninety feet long
by seventeen or eighteen feet wide ; draught five feet.
Though nearly twenty years old, she is still serviceable,
though slow. The upper works look well enough, but
she is much patched below water, I am told.
On board, besides the Pasha, were Casati, Vita Hassan,
a Tunisian apothecary, some Egyptian clerks, an Egyp-
* The following entries must be read while bearing in mind that
thirty-five days previously the Pasha had written to the Editor of Peter-
mann's * Mitteilungen ' a letter, which he concluded with the significant
words, " If Stanley does not come soon, we are lost"
00 IN DARKEST AFEICA.
1888. tian lieutenant, and some forty Soudanese soldiers, be-
30< sides a fine crew. Sometimes, from the familiar sounds
heard during moments of abstraction, I fancied myself at
Alexandria or on the Lower Congo ; but, looking up, and
taking a sweeping view around, I became assured that I
was on board of a steamer afloat on Lake Albert. As we
move slowly about a mile and a half from the shore
northward, the lofty mass of the plateau of Unyoro is to
our right, and to our left is an equally formidable plateau
wall, the ascents and descents of which we know so well.
By a glance at the mass of Unyoro, which is darkly blue,
I see the reason Baker gave the name of Blue Mountains
to our plateau wall, for were we steaming along the
Unyoro shore the warm vapour would tint our plateau
wall of similar colour. When we have left Nyamsassi
Island astern, a damp sheet of rock, wetted by the stream
we crossed yesterday in our descent, glistens in the sun
like a mirror, and makes it resemble a clear falling sheet
of water. Hence Baker gave it the name of a Cascade,
as seen by him from the eastern side.
Dr. Junker and Dr. Felkin, especially in the Graphic
numbers of January, 1887, made us expect a nervous,
wiry, tall man of six feet, or thereabouts, but in reality
Emin Pasha does not exceed 5 feet 7 inches in
height. I remember that the former was anxious
that the trousers ordered in Cairo for his friend should
be long enough in the extremities. About six inches
were cut off the legs before they fitted. He tells me he
is forty-eight years old. In appearance he does not
indicate such an age ; his beard is dark almost to black-
ness, while his activity would befit a man of thirty or
thirty-five.
The Pasha tells me that he has visited Monbuttu, but,
like the travellers Schweinftirth, Casati, Piaggia, and
Junker, he has not made any astronomical observations,
but confined himself solely to the compass survey. The
meteorology of this climate, however, has received greater
attention, as might be expected from his methodical
habitude of mind.
About noon we anchored off Nsabe, and I went ashore
A LONG CONVERSATION WITH EMIN. 401
to bestir the men to make a respectable camp suitable i^ss.
for a protracted halt in a country that we might well Apni
call dangerous owing to the proximity of Kabba Rega.
That king, having thrown down the gage of battle to
Emin Pasha, might fancy himself strong enough, with
his 1,500 rifles, to test our strength; or the Wagarida,
during their raids, might hear of our vicinity and be
tempted by expected booty to make a visit to us.
This evening Emin Pasha came ashore, and we had a
lengthy conversation, but after all I am unable to
gather in the least what his intentions may be. I have
delivered to him his mails, the Khedive's " High Order,"
and Nubar Pasha's letter.
I had an idea that I might have to wait about two
weeks, when we would all march to the plateau and
occupy a suitable spot in Undusuma, where, after seeing
everything done for complete security and comfort, I
could leave him to return to the assistance of the rear
column. On being re-united we could resume our
march within a few days for Zanzibar ; but the Pasha's
manner is ominous. When I propose a return to the
sea to him, he has the habit of tapping his knee, and
smiling in a kind of " We shall see " manner. It is
evident he finds it difficult to renounce his position in a
country where he has performed viceregal functions.
After laying before him at some length the reasons of
the abandonment of the Equatorial Provinces by Egypt
he replied, " I see clearly the difficulty Egypt is in as
regards retention of these provinces, but I do not see so
clearly my way of returning. The Khedive has written
to me that the pay of myself, officers and men will be
settled by the Paymaster General if we return to Egypt,
but if we stay here we do so at our own risk and on
our own responsibility, and that we cannot expect
further aid from Egypt. Nubar Pasha has written to
me a longer letter, but to the same effect. Now, I do
not call these instructions. They do not tell me that I
must quit, but they leave me a free agent."
" Well, I will supplement these letters with my
own positive knowledge, if you will permit me, as the
VOL. I. A A
402 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. Khedive and Nubar Pasha are not here to answer for
April so. themselves. Dr. Junker arrived in Egypt telling the
NsaW - world that you were in great distress for want of
ammunition, but that you had a sufficient quantity to
defend your position for a year or perhaps eighteen
months, providing no determined attack was made on
you, and you were not called upon to make a prolonged
resistance ; that you had defended the Equatorial Pro-
vinces so far successfully ; that you would continue to
do so to the utmost of your ability, until you should
receive orders from your Government to do otherwise ;
that you loved the country and people greatly ; that the
country was in a prosperous state quiet and contented
possessed of almost everything required to maintain
it in this happy condition ; that you would not like to
see all your work thrown away, but that you would
much prefer that Egypt should retain these provinces,
or failing Egypt, some European Power able and willing
to continue your work. Did Dr. Junker report you
correctly, Pasha ? "
" Yes, he did."
" Well, then, the first idea that occurred to the minds
of the Egyptian officials upon hearing Dr. Junker's
report was, that no matter what instructions you
received, you would be disinclined to leave your pro-
vinces, therefore the Khedive says that if you remain
here, you do so upon your own responsibility, and at
your own risk, and you are not to expect further aid
from Egypt.
" Our instructions are to carry a certain quantity of
ammunition to you, and say to you, upon your obtaining
it, i Now we are ready to guide and assist you out of
Africa, if you are willing to accompany us, and we shall
be delighted to have the pleasure of your company ; but
if you decline going, our mission is ended. '
" Let us suppose the latter, that you prefer remaining
in Africa. Well, you are still young, only forty-eight ;
your constitution is still good. Let us say you will
feel the same vigour for five, ten, even fifteen years
longer ; but the infirmities of age will creep on you, and
OUR FUTURE PROCEEDINGS. 403
your strength will fade away. Then you will begin to isss.
look doubtingly upon the future prospect, and mayhap April 30 -
suddenly resolve to retire before it is too late. Some
route will be chosen the Monbuttu route, for instance
to the sea. Say that you reach the Congo, and are
nearing civilization ; how will you maintain your people,
for food must then be bought for money or goods ?
And supposing you reach the sea, what will you do
then ? Who will assist you to convey your people to
their homes ? You rejected Egypt's help when it was
offered to you, and, to quote the words of the Khedive,
' You are not to expect further aid from Egypt.'
" If you stay here during life, what becomes of the pro-
vinces afterwards ? Your men will fight among them-
selves for supremacy, and involve all in one common
ruin. These are grave questions, not to be hastily
answered. If your provinces were situated within
reasonable reach of the sea, whence you could be fur-
nished with means to maintain your position, I should
be one of the last to advise you to accept the Khedive's
offer, and should be most active in assisting you with
suggestions as to the means of maintenance ; but here,
surrounded as this lake is by powerful kings and warlike
peoples on all sides, by such a vast forest on the west,
and by the fanatic followers of the Mahdi on the north,
were I in your place, I would not hesitate one moment
what to do."
" What you say is quite true," replied the Pasha, " but
we have such a large number of women and children,
probably 10,000 people altogether ! How can they all
be brought out of here ? We shall want a great many
carriers."
" Carriers for what ? "
" For the women and children. You surely would not
leave them, and they cannot travel."
" The women must walk ; for such children as cannot
walk, they will be carried on donkeys, of which you say
you have many. Your people cannot travel far during
the first month, but little by little they will get accus-
tomed to it. Our women on my second expedition
404 IN DAJtKEST AFRICA.
1888 crossed Africa ; your women, after a little while, will do
quite as wel . L "
" They will require a vast amount of provisions for
the road."
" Well, you have a large number of cattle, some
hundreds, I believe. Those will furnish beef. The
countries through which we pass must furnish grain and
vegetable food. And when we come to countries that
will accept pay for food, we have means to pay for it,
and at Msalala we have another stock of goods ready for
the journey to the coast."
"Well, well. AVe will defer further talk of it till
to-morrow."
May 1st. Halt at Nsabe.
About 11 A.M. Emin Pasha came ashore, and upon
being seated we resumed in a short time our conversa-
tion of last evening.
" What you told me last night," began the Pasha,,
" has led me to think that it is best we should retire
from Africa. The Egyptians are very willing to go I
know. There are about fifty men of them besides
women and children. Of those there is no doubt, and
even if I stayed here I should be glad to be rid of them,
because they undermine my authority, and nullify all
my endeavours for retreat. When I informed them that
Khartoum had fallen and Gordon Pasha was slain they
always told the Nubians that the story was concocted
by me, and that some day we should see the steamers,
ascend the river for their relief. But of the Regulars,
who compose two battalions I am extremely doubtful.
They have led such a free and happy life here, that they
would demur at leaving a country where they enjoy
luxuries such as they cannot hope for in Egypt. They
are married, and besides, each soldier has his harem ;
most of the Irregulars would doubtless retire and follow
me. Now supposing the Regulars refused to leave, you
can imagine my position would be a difficult one. Would
I be right in leaving them to their fate ? Would it not
be consigning them all to ruin ? I should have to leave
them their arms and ammunition, and on my retiring all
OUR FUTURE PROCEEDINGS. 405
recognized authority and discipline would be at an end. isss.
There would presently rise disputes and factions would Ma7 L
be formed. The more ambitious would aspire to be Nsab '
chiefs by force, and from rivalries would spring hate and
mutual slaughter, involving all in one common fate."
" It is a terrible picture you have drawn, Pasha," I
said. " Nevertheless, bred as I have been to obey orders,
no matter what may happen to others, the line of your
duty, as a faithful officer to the Khedive, seems to me
to be clear.
" All you have to do, according to my idea, is to read
the Khedive's letter to your troops, and ask those willing
to depart with you to stand on one side, and those pre-
ferring to remain to stand on the other, and prepare the
first for immediate departure, while to the latter you can
leave what ammunition and guns you can spare. If
those who remain number three-fourths or four-fifths
of your force, it does not at all matter to any one what
becomes of them, for it is their own choice, nor does it
absolve you personally from the line of conduct duty
to the Khedive directs."
: ' That is very true," replied the Pasha ; " but sup-
posing the men surround me and detain me by force ? "
" That is unlikely, I should think, from the state of
discipline I see among your men ; but of course you
know your own men best."
"Well, I shall send the steamer down to-morrow with
the Khedive's letter, and you would oblige me greatly
if you would allow one of your officers to go and show
himself to the troops at Duffle. Let him speak to the
men himself, and say that he has come from the repre-
sentative of the Government, who has been specially
sent by the Khedive to bring them out, and perhaps
when they have seen him, and talked with your
Soudanese, they will be willing to depart with us. If
the people go, I go ; if they stay, I stay."
: ' Now supposing you resolve to stay, what of the
Egyptians ? "
"Oh, those I shall have to ask you to take
charge of."
406 IN DAEKEST AFRICA.
1888. " Now will you be good enough to ask Captain Casati
iyl if we are to have the pleasure of his company to the
coast, for we have been instructed to lend him every
assistance in our power ? "
Captain Casati answered through Emin Pasha.
" If the Governor Emin goes, I go ; if he stays, I stay."
"Well, I see, Pasha, that in the event of your staying
your responsibilities will be great, for you involve
Captain Casati in your own fate."
(A laugh), and the sentence was translated to Casati,
and the gallant Captain at once replied.
" Oh, I absolve Emin Pasha from all responsibility
connected with me, for I am governed by my own choice
entirely."
" May I suggest then, Pasha, if you elect to remain
here, that you make your will ? "
" Will ! What for ? "
" To dispose of your pay of course, which must by
this time be considerable. Eight years I believe you
said ? Or perhaps you meditate leaving it to Nubar
Pasha ? "
" I give Nubar Pasha my love. Pho ! There can be
only about two thousand and odd pounds due. What is
such a sum to a man about to be shelved ? I am now
forty-eight and one of my eyes is utterly gone. When
I get to Egypt they will give me some fine words and
bow me out. And all I have to do is to seek out some
corner of Cairo or Stamboul for a final resting-place.
A fine prospect truly ! "
In the afternoon Emin Pasha came again to my tent,
and during our conversation he said that he had resolved
to leav: Africa " if his people were willing ; if not, he
would stay with them."
I learned also that the Egyptians were only too
willing to leave for their mother-land, and that there
were about sixty -five of them. That the first battalion
of Kegulars numbered a little over 650, and that the
second battalion amounted to nearly 800. That he had
about 750 Kemington rifles, and that the rest were
armed with percussion muskets.
CAMP AT NSABE. 407
May 2nd. The Khedive steamer left this morning issa
for the northward, first to Mswa Station, thence to
Tunguru, fourteen and a half hours' steaming from hence ;
two days later she will sail for Wadelai, the third day
for Duffle. She carries letters from the Pasha to bring
up sixty or seventy soldiers, a Major, and as many
carriers as can be mustered. She will probably be
fourteen days absent. In the meantime we await here
her return.
I omitted to state before that the Pasha brought with
him, according to my letter, a few bullocks and milk
cows, about forty sheep and goats, and as many fowls,
besides several thousand pounds of grain, as rations to
subsist the Expedition pending the time we should
remain on the Nyanza, as the shore in the neighbourhood
of Nsabe is entirely destitute of food except what may be
obtained by hunting. With care we have quite three
weeks' provisions on hand.
Meanwhile the Pasha remains here with Captain
Casati and about twenty soldiers, and is camped about
300 yards south of us. He and his people are com-
fortably hutted. There is every prospect of a perfect
rest free from anxiety for some two weeks, while myself
and officers will have the society of a most amiable and
accomplished man in the Pasha. Casati does not
understand English, and his French is worse than my
own, so I am excluded from conversing with him. I
learn from the Pasha, however, that Casati has had a
difficult time of it in Unyoro. Until December last,
things progressed tolerably well with him. Residing in
Unyoro as Emin Pasha's Agent, he was the means of
forwarding the Pasha's letter to Uganda, and trans-
mitting such packets of letters, books, medicines,
etc., that Mr. Mackay, Church Missionary Agent, could
spare.
Then from Uganda there came suddenly news to
Kabba Rega of our Expedition, whose force rumour had
augmented to thousands of well-appointed soldiers, who
intended to unite with the Pasha's force, and sweep
tkrough Unyoro and Uganda devastating every land ;
408 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. and presently a packet of letters for myself and officers
p 2 ' was put in Kabba Rega's hands, confirming in a measure
the truth of this report. An officer was sent to Casati's
house, and the Wanyoro pillaged him of every article,
and bound him and his servants to a tree, besides treat-
ing him personally with every mark of indignity.
Mohammed Biri, an Arab, who had been mainly the
medium of communication between Casati and Mr.
Mackay, was, I am told, treated in a worse fashion-
probably executed as a spy and traitor. Captain Casati
and his personal servants, after a while were led out
from Unyoro, by Kabba Rega's officials, and when
beyond the frontier were tied to trees again in a nude
state. By some means, however, they managed to
untie themselves and escape to the neighbourhood of
the Lake, where one of the servants discovered a canoe
and set out for the western shore across the Lake to
Tunguru to obtain help from Emin Pasha. One of the
Pasha's steamers came across the daring fellow, and the
captain on hearing the news, after supplying his vessel
with fuel, steamed away to acquaint the Pasha. In a
few hours the Khedive steamer was under way, com-
manded by the Governor in person, who had a detach-
ment of soldiers with him. After searching for some
time the eastern shore, as directed by Casati's servant,
the steamer was hailed from shore by Casati, who in a
few moments found himself safe in the arms of his
friend. Some soldiers were sent on shore, and Kibero
was burnt in retaliation for the injuries done to his
agent. Of course, Casati, having been turned out naked
into the wilderness, lost all his personal property, journals
and memoirs, and with these our letters.
The Captain placed a way-bill in my hand, wherein I
learn that postal carriers left Zanzibar on the 27th July,
just one month after we had left Yambuya, so that our
letters were duly received at Msalala on the llth
September, and arrived at the Church Missionary
Station in Uganda, November 1st ; and that Captain
Casati received six packets of letters on the 1st
December, just twelve days before we arrived on the
MAB1WKI GORED BY A BUFFALO. 409
western shore of the Nyariza. As he was expelled on isss.
the 13th February, 1888, according to his account our
mails seem to have long lain on his hands, probably no
means having been presented of sending them to the
Pasha.
This morning 3 o'clock (Saat Tato) the hunter set out
to shoot game for the camp, accompanied by a few
young fellows anxious to participate in the sport. Two
buffalo fell victims to the hunter's unerring aim, but a
third one, wounded only in the leg, according to the
cunning instinct of the beast, rushed away, and making
a circle hid himself in some branchy acacias to await his
opponent. Mabruki, the son of Kassin, thought he knew
the art of buffalo hunting, and set out on the tracks of
the wounded animal. The buffalo on the alert no sooner
discovered his enemy, than uttering a hoarse bellows
charged and tossed him, one of his horns entering the
thigh of the unhappy man. While thus prostrate, he
was pounded with the head, gored in the side, arms, and
ripped in the body, until Saat Tato, hearing the screams,
rushed to the rescue when almost too late, and planting
a shot in the buffalo's head, rolled him over, dead. A
young man hurried to camp to acquaint us with the sad
accident. " Three O'clock " set out again, and shot four
fine buck roan antelope. While Mabruki was being borne,
shockingly mangled, in a cot to our camp, a strong detach-
ment of men w r ere bearing the remains of three buffaloes,
and four roan antelopes to serve as provisions for a
people already gorged with beef and grain, but, strange to
say, there was as much eager clamour and loud demand
for their due share as if the men were famished.
On the night of April 30th a strong gale blew nearly
all night, and the Pasha signalled to the Khedive to
drop two anchors. As there was good holding ground
the steamer rode the gale safely. Since then we have
had several strong squalls accompanied with rain day
and night.
May 3rd. Nsabe Camp.
Kavalli's people, like good subjects to their absent
prince, came to visit him to-day, bringing with them
410 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. ten baskets of potatoes, which were kindly distributed
May B ; between us and Emin Pasha.
During a long conversation this afternoon Emin
Pasha stated, " I feel convinced that my people will
never go to Egypt. But Mr. Jephson and the Soudanese
whom you are kind enough to leave with me will have an
opportunity to see and hear for themselves. And I
would wish you would write out a proclamation or
message which may be read to the soldiers, in which
you will state what your instructions are, and say that
you a wait their declaration. From what I know of them
I feel sure they will never go to Egypt. The Egyptians,
of course, will go, but they are few in number, and
certainly of no use to me or to any one else."
This has been the most definite answer I have
received yet. I have been awaiting a positive declara-
tion of this kind before venturing upon any further
proposition to him. Now, to fulfil my promise to
various parties, though they appear somewhat conflict-
ing, I have two other propositions to make. My first
duty is to the Khedive, of course ; and I should be glad
to find the Pasha conformable, as an obedient officer who
kept his post so gallantly until ordered to withdraw.
By this course he would realise the ideal Governor his
letters created in my mind. Nevertheless, he has but
to speak positively to induce me to assist him in any
way to the best of my power.
" Very well," I said ; " and now pray listen, Pasha, to
two other propositions I have the honour of making to
you from parties who would be glad to avail themselves
of your services. Added to that which comes from His
Highness the Khedive, these two will make three, and I
would suggest that, as there appears to be abundant
time before you, that you examine each on its merits
and elect for yourself.
" Let me repeat them. The first proposition is that
you still continue to be an obedient soldier and accom-
pany me to Egypt. On arrival, yourself, your officers
and men, will receive your pay up to date. Whether
you will be employed by the Government in active
MY PROPOSITIONS TO EMIN. 411
service I do not know ; I should think you would, isss.
Officers of your kind are rare, and Egypt has a frontier May a
where such services as you could render would be Nsab6p
valuable. In answer to this proposition you, however,
say that you feel convinced your men will not depart
from here, and that in the event of a declaration to that
effect being given by them that you will remain with
them.
" Now, my second proposition to you comes from
Leopold, King of the Belgians. He has requested me
to inform you that in order to prevent the lapse of the
Equatorial Provinces to barbarism, and provided they
can yield a reasonable revenue, the Congo State might
undertake the government of them if it could be done
by an expenditure of about 10,000 or 12,000 per
annum ; and further, that his Majesty King Leopold
was willing to pay a sufficient salary to you 1,500
as Governor, with the rank of General in the belief
that such employment agrees with your own inclination.
Your duty would be to keep open the communications
between the Nile and Congo, and to maintain law and
order in the Equatorial Provinces.
" My third proposition is : If you are convinced that
your people will positively decline the Khedive's offer
to return to Egypt, that you accompany me with such
soldiers as are loyal to you to the north-east corner of
Victoria Nyanza, and permit me to establish you there
in the name of the East African Association. We will
assist you to build your fort in a locality suitable to the
aims of such an association, leave our boat and such
things as would be necessary for your purpose with you,
and then hasten home across the Masai Land, lay the
matter before the East African Association, and obtain
its sanction for the act, as well as its assistance to
establish you permanently in Africa. I must explain to
you that I have no authority to make this last proposi-
tion, that it issues from my own goodwill to you, and
with an earnest desire to save you and your men from
the consequences of your determination to remain here.
But I feel assured that I can obtain its hearty approval
412 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
less, and co-operation, and that the Association will readily
T 3 ; appreciate the value of a trained battalion or two in
lbe * their new acquisition, and the services of such an
administrator as yourself.
" Pray, grant me a patient hearing for a moment or
two while I explain definitely to you your position here.
The whole system of Egyptian extension up to the
Albert Nyanza was wrong. In theory it was beautiful,
and it was natural. What more natural than that the
Government established at the mouth of a river should
desire to extend its authority up along the banks to its
source, and such a source as the Nile has. Unhappily,
however, it was an Egyptian Government, which, how-
ever honest in its intentions, could only depend upon
officials of the lowest moral quality and mental calibre.
It is true the chief official in these regions has been a
Baker, or a Gordon, or an Emin, but all the subordinates
were Egyptians or Turks. As you multiplied your
stations and increased your posts, you lessened your
own influence. While in the centre of your orbit there
might be a semblance of government ; the outer circles
remained under the influences of Turkish and Egyptian
officers of some Cairene Pasha, or Bey, or Effendi, whose
conduct was licentious and capricious. By military
force the country was taken and occupied, and by force
the occupation has been maintained ever since. A
recognized Government, even if it be that of Egypt, has
a legal and moral right to extend its authority and
enlarge its domain. If it executes its will effectively,
so much the better. Civilization will be benefited, and
all peoples are better under a constituted Government
than under none. But was there an effective Govern-
ment ? As far as Lado and Gondokoro, near the White
Nile Cataracts, it was tolerable I admit. Steamers could
steam from Berber as far as Lado, and the chief official
could superintend such sub - Governments as were
established, but when, before making roads or pre-
paring and ensuring the means of communication, the
Egyptian Government approved the acts of expan-
sion undertaken over the immense, trackless, inacces-
I EXPLAIN EMIWS POSITION TO HIM. 413
sible area of the extreme Soudan, it invited the isss.
catastrophe that happened. When Mohammed Achmet May ^
fired the combustible material that the extortionate ^
subordinates had gathered, the means for extinguishing
the flames were scattered over an area of about 500,000
square miles. The Governor-General was slain, his
capital taken ; one province after another fell ; and their
governors and soldiery, isolated and far apart, capitu-
lated ; and you, the last of these, only saved yourself
arid men by retreating from Lado. Expanded on the
same system, and governed only by the presence of the
military, these former Egyptian acquisitions, if retaken,
would invite a similar fate. If the military occupation
were effective, and each sub-Government cohered to the
other, the collapse of the Government need not be
feared ; but it can never be effective under Egypt.
Neither her revenues nor her population can afford it.
In the absence of this, only self-interest of the peoples
governed can link these distant territories to the
Government of Egypt ; and this is an element which
seems never to have been considered by those respon-
sible for this sudden overgrowth of Cairene empire.
When has this self-interest of the people been cultivated
or fostered ? The captains marched their soldiery to a
native territory, raised a flag-staff, and hoisted the red
banner with the crescent, and then with a salute of
musketry declared the described district around formally
annexed to Egypt. Proclamations were issued to all
concerned, that henceforth the ivory trade was a
monopoly of the Government ; and in consequence, such
traders as were in the land were deprived of their
livelihood. When, to compensate themselves for the
loss of profit incurred by these measures, the traders
turned their attention to slaves, another proclamation
crushed their enterprise in that traffic also. A large
number of the aborigines derived profit from the sale 01
ivory -to the traders, others had large interests in the
capture and sale of slaves, while the traders themselves,
having invested their capital in these enterprises, dis-
covered themselves absolutely ruined, both money and
414 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. occupation gone. Remember, I am only considering the
May f policy. Thus there were left in the Soudan hundreds
of armed caravans, and each caravan numbered from a
score to hundreds of rifles. When Mohamed Achmet
raised the standard of revolt he had some advantages to
offer to the leaders of these caravans made desperate
by their losses. What had the Government officials
to offer ? Nothing. Consequently all vestiges of the
Government that had been so harsh, so arbitrary, and
unwise, were swept away like chaff. It was to the
interest of traders to oppose themselves to the Govern-
ment, and to endeavour to restore a state of things
which, though highly immoral as considered by us,
to them meant profit, and, what is more, relief from
oppression.'
" Now consider the Congo State, which has extended
itself much more rapidly than Egyptian authority was
extended in the Soudan. Not a shot has been fired, no
violence has been offered to either native or trader, not
a tax has been levied except at the seaport where the
trader embarks his exports. Native chiefs voluntarily
offered their territories, and united under the blue flag
with the golden star. Why ? Because there were many
advantages to be derived from the strangers living
among them. First, they were protected against their
stronger neighbours, every eatable they could raise and
sell brought its full value to them of such clothing and
other necessaries they needed. Whatever trade they
had --ivory, rubber, palm-oil, or kernels was free and
untaxed, and their native customs, or domestic matters,
were not interfered with. It was founded without
violence, and subsists without violence ; when, however,
the Congo State initiates another policy, taxes their
trade, lays hands upon the ivory as a Government
monopoly, meddles with their domestic institutions,
absorbs tyrannically all the profits of the European
trader, before it is firmly established on the soil, and
gathered about its stations sufficient physical force to
enable it to do so with impunity, the Congo State will
collapse just as disastrously and as suddenly as was the
THE CONGO STATE. 415
case with Egyptian authority in the Soudan. The isss.
disaster that occurred at Stanley Falls station is an Ma y 3 -
indication of what may be expected.
" Now every man who reflects at all will see that these
Provinces of yours can never be re-occupied by Egypt
while Egypt is governed by Egyptian officials. Egypt
cannot afford the sums necessary to maintain an effective
occupation over a territory so remote. They are too
distant from Wadi Haifa, the present true limit of her
territory. When she connects Wadi Haifa with Berber, or
Khartoum or Suakim with Berber by railway, Lado may
be considered the extreme southern limit of her territory.
When a railway connects Lado with Duffle the true limit
of Egyptian authority will be the southern end of this
Lake, provided always that the military force will be
sufficient to maintain this mode of communication unin
terrupted. When do you think all this will happen ?
During your lifetime ?
" Who else, then, will be so quixotic as to casta covetous
eye on these Provinces ? The King of the Belgians ?
Well, there is a stipulation connected with this proposal,
and that is, if the Provinces can ' give a reasonable
revenue/ You are the best judge of this matter, and
whether 10,000 or 12,000 subsidy will suffice for the
support of the Government of these Provinces. The
revenue, whatever it may be with this additional sum,
must be sufficient to maintain about twenty stations be-
tween here and Yambuya, a distance of 650 miles or
thereabouts; that is, to pay about 1,200 soldiers, about
fifty or sixty officers, and a supreme Governor, furnish
their equipments, the means of defence, and such trans-
port force as may be necessary to unite the most distant
part with the Congo.
" Failing the King of the Belgians, who else will
undertake your support and maintenance, befitting
your station and necessity ? There are enough kind-
hearted people in this world possessed of sufficient
superfluous means to equip an Expedition once, say,
every three years. But this is only a temporary
expedient for mere subsistence, and it scarcely re-
416 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. sponds to your wishes. What then ? I await your
answer, Pasha, again begging to be excused for being so
talkative.
" I thank you very much, Mr. Stanley, I do assure
you, from my heart. If I fail to express my gratitude,
it is because language is insufficient. But I feel your
kindness deeply, I assure you, and will answer you
frankly.
" Now, to the first proposition you have made me,
I have already given my answer.
" To the second I would say that, first of all, my
duty is to Egypt. While I am here, the Provinces
belong to Egypt, and remain her property until I retire.
1 AVhen I depart they become 'no man's land.' I can-
not strike my flag in such a manner, and change the red
for the blue. I have served the first for thirty years ;
the latter I never saw. Besides, may I ask you if, with
your recent experience, you think it likely that commu-
nication could be kept open at reasonable cost ? "
" Undoubtedly not at first. Our experiences have
been too terrible to forget them soon ; but we shall
return to Yambuya for the rear column, I anticipate,
with much less suffering. The pioneer suffers most.
Those who follow us will profit by what we have
learned."
" That may be, but we shall be at Iqast two years
before any news can reach us. No, I do not think that
Exposition, with all due gratitude to His Majesty King
eopold, can be entertained, and therefore let us turn to
the last proposition.
" I do not think that my people would object to accom-
panying me to the Victoria Nyanza, as their objection,
so far as I know, only applies to going to Egypt. As-
suming that the people are willing, I admire the project
very much. It is the best solution of the difficulty, and
by far the most reasonable. For consider that three-
fourths of the 8,000 people are women, children, and
young slaves. What would the Government do with
such a mass of people ? Would it feed them ? Then
think of the difficulty of travel with such an army of
THE ' FOREIGN OFFICE' DESPATCHES. 417
helpless people. I cannot take upon myself the respon- isss.
sibility of leading such a host of tender-footed people to May 3 *
die on the road. The journey to the Victoria is possible.
It is comparatively short. Yes, by far the last proposi-
tion is the most feasible."
" There is no hurry, since you are to await the arrival
of the rear column. Turn the matter over in your mind
while I go to bring the Major up. You have certainly
some weeks before you to consider the question tho-
roughly."
I then showed him the printed Foreign Office
despatches furnished to me by order of Lord Iddes-
leigh. Among these was a copy of his letter to Sir
John Kirk, wherein he offered the Province in 1886 to
England, and stated that he would be most happy to
surrender the Province to the British Government, or,
in fact, any Power that would undertake to maintain
the Province.
"Ah," said the Pasha, "they should never have
published this letter. It was private. What will the
Egyptian Government think of my conduct in ven-
turing to treat of such a matter ? "
" I cannot see the harm," I replied ; " the Egyptian
Government declares its inability to keep the Province,
the British Government will have nothing to do with
it, and I do not know of any company or body of men
who would undertake the maintenance of what I regard,
under all the circumstances, as a useless possession. In
my opinion it is just 500 miles too far inland to be of
any value, unless Uganda and Unyoro have been first
brought under law ; that is, if you persist in declining
King Leopold's offer. If you absolutely decline to
serve the King of the Belgians, and you are resolved
to stay in Africa, you must trust in my promise to get
a British Company to employ you and your troops,
which probably has by this time been chartered with
the purpose of constituting a British possession in East
Africa."
VOL. I. B B
418 IN DARKEST AFSGIA.
CHAPTER XVI.
WITH THE PASHA (continued).
Fortified stations in the Province Storms at Nsabe A nest of young
crocodiles Lake Ibrahim Zanzibar! raid on Balegga villages
Dr. Parke goes in search of the two missing men The Zanzibaris
again A real tornado The Pasha's gifts to us Introduced to
Emin's officers Emin's cattle forays The Khedive departs for Mswa
station Mabruki and his wages The Pasha and the use of the
sextant Departure of local chiefs Arrival of the Khedive and
Nyartza steamers with soldiers Arrangements made to return in
search of the rear-column My message to the troops Our Badzwa
road A farewell dance by the Zanzibaris The Madi carriers' dis-
appearance First sight of Euwenzori Former circumnavigators of
the Albert Lake Lofty twin-peak mountain near the East Ituri
River Aid for Emin against Kabba Rega Two letters from Emin
Pasha We are informed of an intended attack on us by chiefs
Kadongo and Musiri Fresh Madi carriers We attack Kadongo's
camp With assistance from Mazamboni and Gavira we march on
Musiri's camp which turns out to be deserted A phalanx dance by
Mazamboni's warriors Music on the African Continent Camp at
Nzera-kum Hill Presents from various chiefs Chief Musiri wishes
for peace.
1888 May 4:th. Mswa, I am told, is 9 hours' distance from
Nsabe camp by steamer, thence to Tunguru is 5 hours,
and to Wadelai 18 hours. The other fortified stations
are named Fabbo, east of Nile ; Duffle end of naviga-
tion ; Horiyu, Labore, Muggi, Kirri, Bedden, Eejaf, and
three or four small stations inland, west of the Nile.
He has spoken in a more hopeful tone to-day of the
prospects of returning from the shores of the Albert,
the Victoria Lake region appearing even more attrac-
tive than at first. But there is something about it all
that I cannot fathom.
May 6th. Halt at Nsabe.
Another storm broke out to-day, commencing at
8 A.M., blowing from the north-east. The previous
gales were south-easters, veering to east. Looking
STORMS AT NSABfi. 419
toward the steep slope of the plateau walls east and i88.
west of us, we saw it shrouded in mist and vapour, MayG>
and rain-clouds ominous of tempests. The whole
face of the Nyanza was foam, spray, and white rollers,
which, as they approached the shore, we saw were
separated by great troughs, very dangerous to any
small craft that might be overtaken by the storm.
May 7th. Halt at Nsabe'.
While at dinner with me this evening, the Pasha
informed me that Casati had expressed himself very
strongly against the route proposed to be taken, via
Usongora, south, and advised the Pasha to take the
Monbuttu route to the Congo. From which I conclude
that the Pasha has been speaking to Casati about going
home. Has he then altered his mind about the
Victoria ?
May 3th. Halt at Nsabe'.
Each day has its storm of wind and rain, loud
thunder-claps, preceded by a play of lightning flashes,
most beautiful, but terrible.
Discovered a nest of young crocodiles, thirty-seven in
number, having just issued from their egg-homes. By-
the-bye, to those unacquainted with the fact, a crocodile
has five claws on the fore feet, and only four claws on
the hinder. It has been stated that a crocodile raises
the upper jaw to devour, whereas the fact is it depresses
the lower jaw like other animals.
May 9th, Wth. Halt at Nsabe.
May llth. Food supply is getting low. Five men
have wandered off in search of something, and have not
returned since yesterday. I hope we are not going to
be demoralized again.
Mr. Jephson is suffering from a bilious attack.
Lake Ibrahim, or Gita Nzige according to the Pasha,
is only an expansion of the Victoria Nile, similar to that
below Wadelai and Lake Albert, the Upper Congo, and
Stanley Pool. Consequently it has numerous channels,
separated by lines of islets and sand-bars: Both
Gordon and Emin Pasha have travelled by land along
its right bank.
420 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. At 9 P.M. I received dismal intelligence. Four men,
whom I observed playing on the sandy shore of the
lake at 4 o'clock, suddenly took it into their heads to
make a raid on some Balegga villages at the foot of the
plateau N.N.W. from here. They were surrounded by
the natives, and two of them seemed to have been
killed, while the other two, who escaped, show severe
wounds.
May 12th. Halt at Nsabe'.
This morning sent Doctor Parke with forty-five rifles to
hunt up the two missing men. One of them came in at
9 A.M. after a night spent in the wilderness. He has a deep
gash in the back from a spear that had been hurled at
him. Fortunately it did not penetrate the vital parts.
He tells me he was exchanging meat for flour when he
heard rifle shots ahead, and at once there was general
alarm. The natives fled one way and he fled another,
but presently found himself pursued, and received a
spear wound in the back. He managed to outrun the
pursuer, until in the deep grass of watercourse he
managed to hide while a number of natives were
searching for him. He lay there all night, and when
the sun was up, lifted his head to take a look round,
and seeing no one, made his way to the camp.
I am never quite satisfied as to the manner of these
accidents, whether the natives or the Zanzibaris are the
aggressors. The latter relate with exceeding plausibility
their version of the matter, but they are such adepts in
the art of lying that I am frequently bewildered. The
extraction of the truth in this instance seems to be so
hopeless that I tell them I judge of the matter thus :
" You Zanzibaris, so long as you receive five or six
pounds of flour and as many pounds of meat daily,
become so lazy, you would not go to the steamer for
more to provide rations while she would be absent.
She has been gone now several days, your rations are
nearly exhausted, of course, for who can supply you
with as much meat as you can waste, and you left
camp without permission, to steal from the Balegga.
There was quite a party of you, I hear, and most of you,
ZANZIBARI RAID ON BALEGGA VILLAGES. 421
on seeing the village fairly crowded with natives, were isss.
more prudent than others, and traded a little meat for May * 2 *
flour, but your bolder companions passed on, and began
to loot fowls. The natives resented this, shot their
arrows at the thieves, who fired in return, and there
was a general flight. One of your number has been
killed. I have lost a rifle, and three more of you have
been wounded, and will be unfit for work for a long
time. That is the truth of the matter, and therefore I
shall give you no medicines. Cure your own wounds if
you can, and you three fellows, if you recover, shall pay
me for my rifle.
May 13th. Halt at Nsabe.
The doctor returned from his quest of the missing
without further incident than burning two small vil-
lages and firing a few shots at distant parties. He
was unable to recover the body of the Zanzibari, or
his Winchester rifle. Where he fell was marked with
a good deal of blood, and it is probable that he wounded
some of his foes.
A real tornado blew last night. Inky clouds gather-
ing to the S.E.E. and N.E. prepared us somewhat for a
wet night, but not for the fearful volume of wind which
pressed on us with such solid force as to wreck camp
and lay low the tents. The sound, as it approached,
resembled that which we might expect from the rupture
of a dam or the rush from a collapsed reservoir. The
rain, swept by such a powerful force, pierced every-
where. No precaution that we had been taught by
past experience of this Nyanza weather availed us
against the searching, penetrative power of the rain
and its fine spray. From under the huts and tents,
and along the ridge poles, through close shut windows,
ventilators, and doors, the tornado drove the rain in
until w r e were deluged. To contend against such power
of wind and water in a pitchy darkness in the midst of
a deafening uproar was so hopeless a task that our only
refuge was to bear it in silence and with closed lips.
Daylight revealed a placid lake, a ragged sky, plateau
tops buried in masses of vapour, a wrecked camp,
422 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. prostrate tents, and soaking furniture. So terrible was
May is. ^ roar Q ^ gur jj^ we snou i^ have wished to
have viewed the careering rollers and tempestuous face
of the lake by daylight. It is to be hoped that the
old Khedive was safely harboured, otherwise she must
have foundered.
May lth. Halt at Nsabe.
The steamer Khedive arrived this afternoon, bringing
in a supply of millet grain and a few milch cows. The
Pasha came up smiling with welcome gifts for each of
us. To me he gave a pair of stout walking shoes in
exchange for a smaller pair of boots to be given him on
my return with the rear column. Mr. Jephson was
made happy with a shirt, a singlet, and a pair of
drawers ; while Dr. Parke, whose grand kit had been
stolen by an absconding Zanzibar!, received a blue
jersey, a singlet, and a pair of drawers. Each of us
also received a pot of honey, some bananas, oranges,
and water melons, nions, and salt. I also received a
pound of " Honey dew Tobacco " and a bottle of pickles.
These gifts, such as clothes, that our officers have
received from Emin Pasha, reveal that he was not in
the extreme distress we had imagined, and that there
was no necessity for the advance to have pressed for-
ward so hurriedly.* We left all our comforts and
reserves of clothing behind at Yambuya, that we might
press on to the rescue of one whom we imagined was
distressed not only for want of means of defence from
enemies, but in want of clothing. Besides the double
trip we have made to Lake Albert, I fear I shall have
to travel far to go to the rescue of Major Barttelot and
the rear column. God only knows where he is. He
may not have left Yambuya yet, and if so we shall
have 1300 miles extra marching to perform. It is a
terribly long march through a forbidding country, and
I fear I shall lose many and many a good soul before it
is ended. However, God's will be done.
* Yet, Emin Pasha wrote a letter on the 25th March, 1888, to the
Editor of Petermann's Magazine, fifty days previously, which he con-
cluded with the words, " If Stanley does not come soon, we are lost."
INTRODUCED TO EMIN'S OFFICERS. 423
He introduced to me to-day Selim Bey and Major isss.
Awash Effendi, and other officers. I had suggested to May 14t
him two or three days ago that he could assist me
greatly if he constructed a small station on Nyamsassi
Island, where we would be sure to have easy communi-
cation with his people, on which he also could store a
reserve of corn ready for the arrival of the united
Expedition, and he readily promised me. But I confess
to experiencing some wonder to-day when he turned to
Awash Effendi, the Major, and said, rather pleadingly
I thought, " Now promise me before Mr. Stanley that
you will give me forty men to build this station, which
Mr. Stanley so much desires." There is something
about this that I do not understand. It is certainly
not like my ideal Governor, Vice- King, and leader of
men, to talk in that strain to subordinates.
Had another conversation with Emin Pasha to-day,
from which I feel convinced that we shall not only have
to march to the Albert Nyanza again, but that we shall
have to wait afterwards at least two months before he
can get his people together. Instead of setting to work
during our absence to collect his people and prepare
for the journey, it is proposed to wait until my return
with the rear column, when it is expected I shall go as
far as Duffle' to persuade the people to follow me. He
still feels assured his people will not go to Egypt,
but may be induced to march as far as the Victoria
Nyanza.
I asked him if the report was true that he had cap-
tured 13,000 head of cattle during an incursion to the
western cattle-lands.
" Oh, no ; it is an exaggeration. A certain Bakhit
Bey succeeded in taking 8000 head during a raid he
made in Makraka, during Eaouf Pasha's Governor-
Generalship ; but he was severely censured for the act,
as such wholesale raiding only tended to depopulate a
country. That has been the greatest number of cattle
obtained at one time. I have had occasion to order
forays to be made to obtain food, but 1600 head has
been the greatest number we have ever succeeded in
424
IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888.
May 14.
Nsabe.
obtaining at one time. Other forays have resulted in
bringing us 500, 800, and 1200 head."
Both yesterday and to-day have been very pleasant.
The temperature of air in shade, according to Fahrenheit,
has been as follows :
9 A.M. Breeze from S.E.
10.30 A.M.
1.30 P.M.
7 P.M
Midnight
6 A.M.
Compensated aneroid
86
88 30"
88 30"
76
73
73
Mean 2 '350 feet above sea.
May 16th. Nsabe Camp.
The steamer Khedive departed this morning for Mswa
Station and Tunguru, and probably for Wadelai, to
hurry up a certain number of porters to replace our
men lost by starvation in the wilderness. Captain
Casati and Mons. Vita Hassan, the Tunisian apothecary,
have sailed with her.
In order to keep my men occupied, I have begun
cutting a straight road through the plain towards
Badzwa Village. When we take our departure hence
we shall find our advantage in the shorter cut than by
taking the roundabout path by Nyamsassi Island and
the site of old Kavalli.
Fetteh, our interpreter, wounded in the stomach at
the skirmish of Besse, is now quite recovered, and is
fast regaining his old weight.
Mabruki, the son of Kassim, so mangled by the
buffalo the other day, is slowly improving.
The man wounded by a spear in the back during his
foray into the villages of Lando, shows also signs of
rapid recovery.
We live in hay-cock huts now, and may consider
ourselves householders (according to Emin Pasha) of the
Albert Nyanza Province.
May 17 th. Nsabe Camp.
Our road is now 2,360 paces long towards Badzwa
Village.
May 1 8 th. Nsabe Camp.
Our hunters, when receiving cartridges, insist on their
THE PASHA AND THE SEXTANT. 425
being laid on the ground. Ill luck would follow if the isss.
cartridges were delivered to them from the hand.
I have been instructing the Pasha in the use of the
sextant the last two days preparatory to taking lessons
in navigation. His only surveying instrument hitherto
has been a prismatic compass, and as he has never been
taught to discover its variation, it is probable that his
surveys have been from magnetic bearings.
The son of Kassim, the victim to the fury of an
angry buffalo, called me this morning to his bedside, that
I might register his last wishes respecting the wages
due to him. His friend Maruf and adopted brother
Sungoro are to be the legatees. Poor Mabruki desired
to remember another friend, but the legatees begged him
not to Jill the Master's book with names. He was so
dejected that I told him that the doctor had great faith
that he would recover. " You are in no danger. Your
wounds are very bad, but they are not mortal, and as
the Pasha will take care of you in my absence, I shall
find you a strong man when I return. Why do you
grieve to-day ? "
" Ah, it is because something tells me I shall never
see the road again. See, is not my body a ruin ? "
Indeed he was a pitiable sight, right eye almost obscured,
two ribs broken, right thigh and fork lacerated in the
most dreadful manner.
The Chief Mbiassi of Kavalli departed homeward two
days ago. Mpigwa, Chief of Nyamsassi, and his retinue
left yesterday. Kyya-nkondo or Katonza, for he has
two names, also went his way (which, by the way, is in
the wilderness owing to a late visit of Kabba Rega's
brigands), while Mazamboni's people after entertaining
the Pasha and his officers with a farewell dance last
night, took their leave this morning.
Three buffalo and a water buck were shot yesterday
by two of our hunters.
The . last four days and nights have given us better
thoughts of this African land and lake shore than we
previously entertained. The weather has been some-
what warm, but the lake breeze blowing light and soft,
426
DARKEST AFRICA.
Nsabe.
1888. just strong enough to swing pendulous foliage, has been
]v j r ay v 19 ' cooling and grateful. The nights have been more
refreshing. In a sky of radiant brightness the moon
has stood high above the plateau's crown, turning the
lake into a quivering silver plain, the lake surf so
blustering and restless, rolls in a slow and languid
cadence on a gray shore of sand before the light
breath of an eastern wind. As if to celebrate and
honour this peaceful and restful life, the Zanzibaris and
natives, who, last December were such furious foes,
rival one another with song and chorus and strenuous
dance to a late hour each night.
THE STEAMERS " KHEDIVE " AND " NYANZA " ON LAKE ALBERT.
May 19 th. Nsabe Camp.
Our road towards Badzwa is now three and a
third miles long. We have but to hoe up the grass
along a line, and we have a beautiful path, with the
almost imperceptible rise of 1 foot in 200.
May 20#A. Nsabe Camp.
Captured two small brown snakes of a slight coppery
tint in my tent this morning.
May 21 st. Nsabe Camp.
THE "KHEDIVE" AND " NYANZA " STEAMERS. 427
The Pasha is now able to read the sextant very well. isss.
He has also made an advance towards finding index Ma y 22 -
error ; though he labours under the infirmity of short
sight, he is quick and devoted to his intention of
acquiring the art of observing by the instrument. At
noon we took meridian altitude for practice. He
observed altitude was 70 54' 40" at one-and-half miles
distant, height of eye five feet. Index error to add 3' 15".
May 22nd. Nsabe Camp.
The steamers Khedive and Nyanza, the latter towing
a lighter, appeared to-day about 9 A.M., bringing 80
soldiers, with the Major and Adjutant of the 2nd
Battalion, and 130 carriers of the Madi tribe. We
received gifts of raki (ten-gallon demijohn, a kind of
Eussian vodka, from the Pasha's distillery, pome-
granates, oranges, water-melons, and more onions, be-
sides six sheep, four goats, and a couple of strong
donkeys, one for myself and one for Doctor Parke).
The Nyanza steamer is about 60 feet by 12. I propose
leaving the Albert Lake for my journey in search of
the rear column of the Expedition the day after to-
morrow.
I leave with the Pasha, Mr. Mounteney Jephson,
three Soudanese soldiers, and Binza, Doctor Junker's
boy, besides the unhappy Mabruki. Of the baggage we
carried here, exclusive of thirty-one cases Remingtons
already delivered, I leave two boxes Winchesters, one
box of brass rods, lamp, and sounding iron ; also my
steel boat, Advance, with her equipments.
In accordance with the request of the Pasha, I have
drawn up a message, which Mr. Jephson will read to the
troops. It is as follows :
SOLDIERS, After many months of hard travel, I have at last reached the
Nyanza. I have come expressly at the command of the Khedive Tewfik, to
lead you out of here and show you the way home. For you must know
that the Eiver el Abiad is closed, that Khartoum is in the hands of the
followers of Mohamed Achmet, that the Pasha Gordon and all his people
were killed, and that all the steamers and boats between Berber and the
Bahr Ghazal have been taken, and that the nearest Egyptian station to
you is Wady Haifa, below Dongola. Four times the Khedive and your
friends have made attempts to save you. First, Gordon Pasha was sent
to Khartoum to bring you all home. After ten months of hard fighting
428 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
Khartoum was taken, and Gordon Pasha was killed, he and his soldiers.
May 22. Next came tne English soldiers under Lord Wolseley to try and help
be Gordon Pasha out of his troubles. They were four days too late, for
they found Gordon was dead and Khartoum was lost. Then a Doctor
Lenz, a great traveller, was sent by way of the Congo to find out how
you could be assisted. But Lenz could not find men enough to go with
him, and so he was obliged to go home. Also a Doctor Fischer was sent
by Doctor Junker's brother, but there were too many enemies in the
path, and he also returned home. I tell you these things to prove to
you that you have no right to think that you have been forgotten in
Egypt. No, the Khedive and his Wazir, Nubar Pasha, have all along
kept you in mind. They have heard by way of Uganda how bravely
you have held to your post, and how stanch you have been to your
duties as soldiers. Therefore they sent me to tell you this ; to tell you that
you are well remembered, and that your reward is waiting for you, but that
you must follow me to Egypt to get your pay and your reward. At the
same time the Khedive says to you, through me, that if you think the
road too long, and are afraid of the journey, that you may stay here,
but in that case you are no longer his soldiers ; that your pay stops at
orce ; and in any trouble that may hereafter befall you, you are not to
blame him, but yourselves. Should you decide to go to Egypt, I am to
show you the way to Zanzibar, put you on board a steamer and take
you to Suez, and thence to Cairo, and that you will get your pay until
you arrive there, and that all promotions given you will be secured, and
all rewards promised you here will be paid in full.
I send you one of my officers, Mr. Jephson, and give him my sword,
to read this message to you from me. I go back to collect my people
and goods, and bring them on to the Nyanza, and after a few months I
shall come back here to hear what you have to say. If you say, Let us
go to Egypt, I will then show you a safe road. If you say, We shall not
leave this country, then I will bid you farewell and return to Egypt with
my own people.
May God have you in His keeping.
Your good friend,
(Signed) STANLEY.
May 23rd. Halt.
The Zanzibaris entertained the Pasha and his officers
to-night with a farewell dance. Though they are quite
well aware of the dangers and fatigue of the journey
before them, which will commence to-morrow, there are
no symptoms of misgiving in any of them. But it is
certain that some of them will take their last look of the
Pasha to-morrow.
May 24#A. March to Badzwa village, 10 miles; per-
formed it in 4 hours.
Emin Pasha marched a company along our new road
at dawn, this morning, and halted it about two miles
from the Lake. Having arranged the Madi carriers
in their place in the column, the advance guard issued
out from camp and took the road towards the west at
MESSAGE TO THE EGYPTIAN TROOPS. 429
6.15 A.M. In half-an-hour we found the Pasha's 1888.
Soudanese drawn up in line on one side of the road
They saluted us as we passed on, and the Pasha fer-
vently thanked us and bade us good-bye.
At the end of the new road twenty -one of the Madis
broke from the line of the column and disappeared
towards the north rapidly. Fourteen men were sent
back to inform the Pasha, while we held on our way to
Badzwa. About a mile from the village there was
another stampede, and eighty-nine Madis deserted in a
body, but not without sending a shower of arrows
among the rear guard. The doctor, believing that this
was preliminary to an attack on his small detachment,
fired his rifle, and dropped a Madi dead, which precipi-
tated the flight of the deserters. The remaining nine-
teen out of the 130 were secured.
A second message was therefore sent to the Pasha
acquainting him with the events of the march.
When about five miles from Nsabe Camp, while
looking to the south-east, and meditating upon the
events of the last month, my eyes were directed by a
boy to a mountain said to be covered with salt, and I
saw a peculiar shaped cloud of a most beautiful silver
colour, which assumed the proportions and appearance of
a vast mountain covered with snow. Following its form
downward, I became struck with the deep blue-black
colour of its base, and wondered if it portended another
tornado ; then as the sight descended to the gap between
the eastern and western plateaus, I became for the first
time conscious that what I gazed upon was not the
image or semblance of a vast mountain, but the solid sub-
stance of a real one, with its summit covered with snow.
I ordered a halt and examined it carefully with a field-
glass, then took a compass bearing of the centre of it,
and found it bear 215 magnetic. It now dawned upon
me that this must be the Ruwenzori, which was said to
be covered with a white metal or substance believed to
be rock, as reported by Kavalli's two slaves.
This great mountain continued to be in sight most
distinctly for two hours, but as we drew nearer to
430 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. Badzwa at the foot of the plateau, the lofty wall of the
plateau hid it from view.
This discovery was announced to the Pasha in the
second message I sent. When I come to reflect upon
it, it strikes me as singular that neither Baker, Gessi,
Mason, or Emin Pasha discovered it long ago.
Gessi Pasha first circumnavigated the Albert Lake,
steaming along the western shore towards the south,
rounding the southern end of the lake and continuing
his voyage along the eastern shore.
Mason Bey, in 1877, is the next visitor, and he
follows the track of Gessi with a view of fixing positions
by astronomical observations, which his predecessor was
unable to do.
Emin Pasha, eleven years later, comes steaming south
in quest of news of the white men reported to be at
the south end of the Lake.
If a fair view of this snowy mountain can be obtained
from the plain of the Nyanza, a much better view ought
to be obtained from the Lake, and the wonder is that
none of these gentlemen saw it. Whereas Baker, cast-
ing his eyes in its direction, on a " beautifully clear day,"
views only an illimitable Lake.
Messrs. Jephson and Parke, while carrying the boat
from Kavalli's to the Lake, report that they saw snow
on a mountain, and the latter officer, pointing to the
little range of Unya-Kavalli, inquired of me on his
return if it was possible that snow would be found on
such hills. As their highest peak cannot be 5,500 feet
above the sea, I replied in the negative, but the
doctor said that he was equally certain that he had
seen snow. I explained to him then that a certain
altitude of about 15,000 feet in the Equatorial regions
is required before rain can be congealed into permanent
snow ; that there might be a hail-storm or a fall of
snow, caused by a cold current, even on low altitudes in
a tropic region, but such cold would only be temporary,
and the heat of tropic waters or tropic soil would in a
few moments cause the hail and snow to disappear.
Standing as we were in camp at Bundi, on the crest of
FIRST SIGHT OF BUWENZORL 481
the plateau, in plain view of Unya Kavalli and other isss.
hills, there was no height visible anywhere above 6000 May 24>
feet of an altitude above the sea.
Considering the above facts, it will be evident that it
requires a peculiar condition of the atmosphere to enable
one to see the mountain from a distance of 70 miles,
which I estimate it at. Near objects, or those 10, 15,
or 20 miles, an ordinarily clear atmosphere may enable
us to distinguish ; but in such a humid region as this
is, on a bright day such a quantity of vapour is exhaled
from the heated earth, that at 30 miles it would be
intensified into a haze which no eyesight could pene-
trate. But at certain times wind-currents clear the
haze, and expose to the view objects which we wonder
we have not seen before. As, for instance, in December
last, returning from Nyanza to Fort Bodo, I took com-
pass bearings of a lofty twin-peak mountain from a
table hill near the East Ituri Kiver. I noted it down
that the twin-peak mass was already seen, and I pointed
it out to Mr. Jephson. Strange to say, I have never
seen it since, though I have been twice over the ground.
Kavalli passed our camp this afternoon with 400 men
to assist Emin Pasha in a demonstration he proposes to
make against Kabba Kega. Katonza and Mpigwa of
Nyamsassi will also, perhaps, lend an equal number to
his assistance.
I received the following letters to-day from the
Pasha. When he talks of pride and joy at being in our
company, I think we are all unanimous in believing
that he has given us as much pleasure as we have
given him.
Nsabe Camp,
25M May, 1888, 5 A.M.
DEAR SIR,
I should not need to tell you how distressed I have been when
I heard of the misfortune happened by the desertion of our Madi people.
I at once sent out different searching parties, but I am sorry to state that
up to noon their efforts were of no avail, although Shukri Agha and
his party, who went yesterday to Kahanama, have not returned.
By a mere chance it happened that when Dr. Parke came a boat from
Mswa station had arrived, bringing me intelligence of the arrival there of
120 porters from Duffle. I therefore started immediately the Khedive
steamer to bring them here, and expect her back this very night, when,
432 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
188 s at her arrival, I shall start the whole gang, accompanied by a detachment
May 24. of my people.
Badzwa Allow me to be the first to congratulate you on your most splendid
discovery of a snow-clad mountain. We will take it as a good omen for
further directions on our road to Victoria.* I propose to go out on your
track to-day or to-morrow, just to have a look at this giant.
In expectance of two words of you this morning I venture to offer you
my best wishes for the future. I always shall remember with pride and
joy the few days I was permitted to consort with you.
Believe me, dear Sir,
Yours very sincerely,
(Signed) DK. M. EMIN.
Nsabe Camp,
ZGthMay, 1888, 2-30 A.M.
DEAR SIR,
Your very welcome and most interesting note of yesterday has
reached me at the hands of your men. The steamer has come in this
very instant, but she brought only eighty-two carriers, the rest having
run away on the road between Tunguru and Mswa. I send, therefore,
these few men, accompanied by twenty -five soldiers and an officer, hoping
they may be of some use to you. Their arms having been collected I
handed them to the officer, from whom you will kindly receive them.
We heard yesterday evening that your runaways had worked their way
to Muganga, telling the people they were sent by me.
The ten men you kindly sent here accompanying the carriers as well
as Kavalli and his men. Having caught yesterday a spy of Kavidongo f
in Katonza's Camp, I told this latter he would better retire, and he acted
on this advice. I have acquainted Kavalli with my reasons for not
interfering just now with Kavidongo, and have asked him to return to
you. He readily assented ; he had some presents, and starts now with
the courier. He entreats me, further, to beg you to send some of your
men to take hold of his brother Kadongo, who stays, says he, with the
Wawitu somewhere near to his residence.
I shall try hard to get a glimpse of the new snow mountain, as well
from here as from some other points I propose to visit. It is wonderful
to think how, wherever you go, you distance your predecessors by your
discoveries.
And now as this, for some time at least, is probably the last word I
will be able to address you, let me another time thank you for the
generous exertions you have made, and you are to make for us. Let me
another time thank you for the kindness and forbearance you have shown
me in our mutual relations. If I cannot find adequate words to express
what moves me in this instant you will forgive me. I lived too long in
Africa for not becoming somewhat negrofied.
God speed you on your course and bless your work !
Yours very faithfully,
(Signed) DR. EMIN.
May 25th and 26th. Halt at Badzwa.
The Pasha has abandoned his idea of making a
demonstration against Unyoro, and his allies, who have
* It is clear that he was smitten with the Victoria Lake proposition.
t Bavidongo, one of the principal generals of Kabba Eega.
TWO LETTERS FROM EM IN PASHA. 433
much to avenge, have been quickly dismissed home- isss.
ward. Ma ? 2 ^
In the afternoon Balegga descended from Bundi Hill Bundi
Village, and secretly informed us that Kadongo and
Musiri the latter a warlike and powerful chief have
banded their forces together and intend to attack us on
the road between Gavira's and Mazamboni's. We have
given neither of them any cause for this quarrel, unless
our friendship with their rivals may be deemed sufficient
and legitimate. I have only 111 rifles and ten rounds
of ammunition for each rifle, to reach Fort Bodo, 125
miles distant. If any determined attack is made on us
in the open country, a few moments' firing will make us
helpless. Therefore I shall have to resort to other
measures. It was held by Thomas Carlyle that it was
the highest wisdom to know and believe that the stern
thing which necessity ordered to be done was the wisest,
the best, and the only thing wanted there. I will
attack Kadongo first, and then march straight upon
Musiri, and we will spend our last shots well, if necessary.
It may be this bold movement will upset the combi-
nation.
The Pasha has acted quickly. Eighty-two fresh
carriers arrived at noon, under a strong guard, and three
soldiers specially detailed to accompany me. On their
delivery to us, each Zanzibari received a Madi to guard.
At half-past three in the afternoon we commenced
the steep ascent up the terrible slope of the plateau,
with a burning sun in our front, and reached the crest
at Bundi camp at 6.30 P.M., a half-hour after sunset.
After placing strong guards round the camp, I
sele3ted a band of forty rifles of the choicest men under
two Zanzibari chiefs, and prepared them for a surprise
party to attack Kadongo's camp by night. A few of
our native allies volunteered to show the hill village he
was occupying.
At 1 A.M. the party was despatched.
May 27th. At 8 A.M. the party detailed against
Kadongo returned, having effected their mission most
successfully, but Kadongo himself escaped by crying
VOL. i. cc
434 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. out that he was a friend of " Bula Matari." No cattle
May 27> or goats were taken, because the place was only occu-
pied by Kadongo's band for temporary purposes.
We then lifted our burdens and began our march
towards Gavira's. We had barely started when we
discovered a large band of men advancing towards
us, preceded by a man bearing a crimson flag, which at
a distance might be taken for that of Zanzibar or Egypt.
We halted, wondering what party this might be, but
in a few moments we recognised Katto, Mazamboni's
brother, who had been sent by his chief to greet us and
learn our movements. We admired the aptness of
these people in so soon learning to follow the direction
given to them, for had not the flag held us in suspense,
we might have injured our friends by taking them for
the van of Musiri's war-party.
Ketaining a few of them to follow us, I ordered
Katto to return quickly to Mazamboni, his brother,
and secretly inform him that as Musiri intended to
attack us on the road, I intended to attack him at dawn
the day after to-morrow, and that I expected from
Mazamboni, as my ally, that he would bring as many
men as he could sometime that next day. Katto
declared the thing possible, though it was a short
notice for the distance to be travelled. We were at
the time six miles from Gavira's, thence to Mazamboni's
village was thirteen miles, and back again to Gavira's
would be another thirteen miles, and in the meantime
some delay would be necessary to secretly muster a
sufficient body of warriors becoming Mazamboni's rank,
and prepare rations for a few days.
We arrived at Gavira's about noon. Here I pro-
posed to Gavira to join me in the attack, which the
chief as readily promised.
May 28th. Halt. We have received abundant con-
tributions of food for our force, which numbers now 111
Zanzibaris, 3 whites, 6 cooks and boys, 101 Madis, and
3 soldiers belonging to the Pasha total 224, exclusive
of a few dozen natives who voluntarily follow us.
An hour after sunset Mazamboni arrived in person
MUSIRFS CAMP DESERTED, 435
with about 1000 warriors armed with bows and spears. 1888.
His force was camped in the potato fields between Ma y 29 -
Gavira's and Musiri's district.
May 29th. At three o'clock A.M. we set out for Usiri
on a N.W. road, a bright moon lighting the way.
About 100 of the boldest of Mazamboni's corps preceded
our force. The others fell in line behind, and Gavira's
tribe, represented by about 500 men, brought up the
rear. A deep silence, befitting our purpose, prevailed.
At 6 A.M. we reached the outskirts of Usiri, and in a
few moments, each chief having received his instruc-
tions, Dr. Parke, in charge of sixty rifles to keep the
centre, Katto, in charge of his brother's warriors to form
the left wing, and Mpinga and Gavira with his men to
form the right, the attacking force moved on swiftly.
The results were ludicrous in the extreme. Mpinga's-
Wahuma herdsmen had given notice to Musiri's
Wahuma herdsmen, and Mazamboni's Wahuma had been
just as communicative to their fellow-countrymen with
the enemy. Consequently the herdsmen had driven
all the herds from Usiri by other roads ; a half of them
arrived at Gavira's, and the other half at Mazamboni's,
just at the same morning when the attacking force
poured over the land of Usiri, and Musiri, the chief,
after hearing of the disaster to Kadongo, and of the
mighty army to be brought against him, took tender
care that not one soul under his sway should be
injured. The land was quite empty of people, herds,
flocks, and fowls, but the granaries were heaped full of
grain, the fields exhibited abundant crops of potatoes,
beans, young Indian corn, vegetables, and tobacco. I
am secretly glad of the bloodless termination of the
affair. My object has been gained. We have saved
our extremely scanty supply of ammunition, and the
road is clear from further trouble. Mazamboni and
Gavira, I believe, were also delighted, though they
expressed themselves mortified.
In one of the huts was discovered the barrel of a
carbine and percussion lock. The latter bore the brand
of "John Clive III., 530." This is a relic of Kabba
436 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. Rega's visit, whose men were sadly defeated by Musiri
Ma 29.
In the afternoon Mazamboni's warriors, 1000 strong,
joined to celebrate the bloodless victory over Musiri in
a phalanx dance. Dancing in Africa mainly consists of
rude buffoonery, extravagant gestures, leaping and
contortions of the body, while one or many drums keep
time. There is always abundance of noise and loud
laughter, and it serves the purpose of furnishing amuse-
ment to the barbarians, as the dervish-like whirling and
pirouetting give to civilised people. Often two men
step out of a semicircle of their fellow villagers, and
chant a duet to the sound of a drum or a horn amid
universal clapping of hands, or one performs a solo
while dressed most fantastically in cocks' feathers, strings
of rattling gourds, small globular bells, and heaps of
human, monkey, and crocodile teeth, which are the
African jewels ; but there must always be a chorus, the
grander the better, and when the men. women, and
children lift their voices high above the drums, and the
cchatter and murmur of the crowd, I must confess to having
enjoyed it immensely, especially when the Wanyamwezi
are the performers, who are by far the best singers on
the African continent. The Zanzibaris, Zulus, Waiau,
Wasegara, Waseguhha, and Wangindo are in the main
very much alike in method and execution, though they
have each minor dances and songs, which vary con-
siderably, but they are either dreadfully melancholiac or
stupidly barbarous. The Wasoga, Waganda, Wakerewe,
Wazongora, around Lake Victoria, are more subdued, a
crude bardic, with something of the whine of the Orient
Mustapha, or Hussein, or Hassan, moaning below lattices
to the obdurate Fatima or stony-eared Koxana. Except
the Wanyamwezi, I have not heard any music or seen
any dance which would have pleased an English
audience accustomed to the plantation dances repre-
sented in a certain hall in Piccadilly until this day, when
the Bandussuma, under Katto, the brother of Mazamboni,
led the chief warriors to the phalanx dance. Half a
score of drums, large and small, had been beaten by
A PHALANX DANCE. 437
half a score of accomplished performers, keeping isss.
admirable time, and emitting a perfect volume of sound May 29
which must have been heard far away for miles, and in
the meantime Katto, and his cousin Kalenge, adorned
with glorious tufts of white cocks' feathers, were
arranging thirty-three lines of thirty-three men each as
nearly as possible in the form of a perfect and solid and
close square. Most of these men had but one spear each,
others possessed two besides their shields and quivers,
which were suspended from the neck down the back.
The phalanx stood still with spears grounded until, at
a signal from the drums, Katto's deep voice was heard
breaking out into a wild triumphant song or chant, and
at a particular uplift of note raised his spear, and at
once rose a forest of spears high above their heads, and
a mighty chorus of voices responded, and the phalanx
was seen to move forward, and the earth around my
chair, which was at a distance of fifty yards from the
foremost line, shook as though there was an earthquake.
I looked at the feet of the men and discovered that
each man was forcefully stamping the ground, and
taking forward steps not more than six inches long,
and it was in this manner that the phalanx moved
slowly but irresistibly. The voices rose and fell in
sweeping waves of vocal sound, the forest of spears rose
and subsided, with countless flashes of polished iron
blades as they were tossed aloft and lowered again to
the hoarse and exciting thunder of the drums. There
was accuracy of cadence of voice and roar of drum,
there was uniform uplift and subsidence of the constantly
twirling spear blades, there was a simultaneous action
of the bodies, and as they brought the tremendous
weight of seventy tons of flesh with one regular stamp
of the feet on the ground, the firm and hard earth
echoed the sound round about tremulously. With all
these the thousand heads rose and drooped together,
rising when venting the glorious volume of energy,
drooping with the undertone of wailing murmur of the
multitude. As they shouted with faces turned upward
and heads bent back to give the fullest effect to the
438 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. ascending tempest of voices, suggestive of quenchless
May 29< fury, wrath and exterminating war, it appeared to inflate
every soul with the passion of deadly battle and every
eye of the onlookers glowed luridly, and their right
arms with clenched fists were shaken on high as though
their spirits were thrilled with the martial strains ; but
as the heads were turned and bowed to the earth we
seemed to feel war's agony, and grief, and woe, to think
of tears, and widows' wails, and fatherless orphans'
cries, of ruined hearths and a desolated land. But
again as the mass, still steadily drawing nearer, tossed
their heads backward, and the bristling blades flashed
and clashed, and the feathers streamed and gaily
rustled, there was a loud snort of defiance and such an
exulting and energising storm of sound that man saw
only the glorious colours of victory and felt only the
proud pulses of triumph.
Eight up to my chair the great solid mass of wildly
chanting natives advanced, and the front line lowered
their spears in an even line of bright iron ; thrice they
dropped their salute and thrice they rose, and then the
lines, one after another, broke into a run, spears
clenched in the act of throwing, staffs quivering, war-
whoops ringing shrilly. The excitement was intensified
until the square had been transformed into wheeling
circles three deep, and after three circlings round the
open plaza, Prince Katto took his position, and round
him the racing men coiled themselves until soon they
were in a solid circle. When this was completed the
square was formed, it was divided into halves, one half
returning to one end, the other half to the other end.
Still continuing the wild chant, they trotted towards
one another and passed through without confusion,
exchanging sides, and then once more in a rapid circling
of the village common with dreadful gestures until the
eye was bewildered with the wheeling forms, and then
every man to his hut to laugh and jest, little heeding what
aspects they had conjured by their evolutions and chants
within me, or any one else. It was certainly one of the
best and most exciting exhibitions I had seen in Africa.
CAMP AT NZERA-KUM HILL. 441
May 30t/i. March to Nzera-Kum Hill in Ndusuma, isss.
three hours. Ala > r 30 -
We marched to Mazamboni's country to our old camp *
at Chongo, which name the Zanzibaris have given to
the hill of Nzera-Kum, and we had abundant evidence
that Mazamboni was deeply implicated in the acts of
the Wahuma herdsmen, for the track was fresh and
large of many a fine herd of cattle. Presently we came
in sight of the fine herds, who, all unconscious of
trouble, were browsing on the fine pasture, and the
Zanzibaris clamoured loudly for permission to capture
them. For an instant only there was a deep silence,
but Mazamboni, on being asked the reason for the
presence of Musiri's herds on his territory, answered so
straightforwardly that they belonged to the Wahuma
who had fied from his territory last December when he
was in trouble with us, and now to avoid the same
trouble in Usiri had returned to their former place, and
he had not the heart to prevent them, that the order
was given to move on.
May 31st. Halt. Mazamboni gave us a present of
three beeves and supplied our people with two days full
rations of flour, besides a large quantity of potatoes and
bananas. A large number of small chiefs from the
surrounding districts paid visits to us, each bringing
into camp a contribution of goats, fowls, and millet
flour. Urumangwa, Bwessa, and Gunda have also
made pacts of friendship with us. These villages form
the very prosperous and extensively cultivated district
which so astonished us by its abundance one December
morning last year.
Towards evening I received a communication from
Musiri, saying that as all the land had made peace with
me, he wished to be reckoned as my friend, and that
the next time I should return to the country he would
be prepared with suitable gifts for us.
As to-morrow I propose to resume the journey
towards Fort Bodo and Yambuya, let me set down what
I have gleaned from the Pasha respecting himself.
442 IN DABKEST AFJtIC'A.
CHAPTER XVII.
PERSONAL TO THE PASHA.
Age and early days of Fmin Pasha Gordon and the pay of Emin Pasha
Last interview with Gordon Pasha in 1877 Emin's last supply of
ammunition and provisions Five years' isolation Mackay's library
in Uganda Emin's abilities and fitness for his position His
linguistic and other attainments Emin's industry His neat
journals Story related to me by Shukri Agha referring to Emin's
escape from Kirri to Mswa Emin confirms the story Some natural
history facts related to me by Emin The Pasha and the Dinka
tribe A lion story Emin and " bird studies."
IT is not my purpose to make a biographical sketch of
Emin Pasha, but to furnish such items of information
as he delivered them to me, day by day, concerning the
life he has led in the Soudan, and his acquaintance with
his illustrious chief the ever-lamented Gordon.
By birth he is a German, but whether Austrian or
Prussian I know not, and I have no curiosity to know
the name of the obscure village or town where that
event happened. He declares he is forty-eight years
old, and must therefore have been born in the year
1840. I fancy that he must have been young when he
arrived in Constantinople, that some great man assisted
him in his medical studies, that through the same
influence probably he entered the Turkish service, and
became medical attendant on Ismail Hakki Pasha. If
for thirty years he has served under the crescent flag as
he himself reported, he must have begun his service in
Turkey in the year 1858. He became attracted to the
" Young Turk " party, or to the reform party, in
Stamboul. It had an organ, which, by its bold
advocacy of reform, was three times suppressed by the
EM1N PASHA. 443
authorities. On the last suppression he was expelled
from the country.
He admits that he was in Constantinople when the
assassination of the Sultan Abdul Aziz occurred, though
he was absent during the trial of those suspected to be
concerned in it. Coming to Egypt in December, 1875,
he entered the Egyptian service, and was despatched to
Khartoum.
*****
"Gordon first appointed me as surgeon at 25 a
month. He then raised me to 30, and after my
mission to Uganda he surprised me with increasing my
pay to 40, but when I became Governor of this Pro-
vince my pay like other Provincial Governors' became
50 monthly. What the pay of a General is I do not
know, but then I am only a ' Miraman,' a kind of
civilian Pasha, who receives pay while employed, but
immediately his services are not required he becomes
unpaid. I expected to be made a military Pasha a
General of Division."
*****
" Now Gordon appointed the German Vice-Consul
at Khartoum as my agent, to receive my pay, without
any advice from me about it. For several months I
believe it was paid to him regularly. But finally
Gordon appointed the same Vice-Consul Governor of
Darfour, when he shortly after died. When his effects
were collected and his small debts paid, there were
found sufficient funds to present his wife with 500
and send her to Cairo, and to transfer 50 to my
account as his principal creditor. A few months after-
wards Khartoum fell, and what money had been de-
posited there after the Vice-Consul's death was lost of
course. So that for eight years I have received no pay
at all."
*****
" My last interview with Gordon Pasha was in 1877.
There had been an Expedition sent to Darfour, under
Colonel Prout, and another under Colonel Purdy, for
, M DARKEST AFRICA.
survey work. When Gordon became Governor-General,
he requested Stone Pasha, at Cairo, to despatch to him
one of these officers, for survey work in the Equatorial
Province. Gessi Pasha had already circumnavigated
the Albert, but his survey was by compass only. Both
Prout Bey and Mason Bey were capital observers.
Prout Bey was the first to arrive. He travelled from
Lado to Fatiko, thence to Mruli, on the Victoria Nile,
and from there he proceeded to Magungo, on the Albert
Nyanza, and by a series of observations he fixed the
position of that point for all time. Illness compelled
him to retire to my station at Lado. Just then Mason
Bey arrived in a steamer, to survey the Albert Lake,
and by that steamer I received an order to descend to
Khartoum, to be made Governor of Massowah, on the
Ked Sea. The French Consul of that place had a mis-
understanding with the civil Governor there, and he
had begged that if another Governor was appointed, he
should be some person who could understand French.
I suppose Gordon, knowing me to be familiar with the
language, had elected me. On reaching Khartoum I
was very cordially received by Gordon, and he insisted
on my taking my meals with him, which was a great
favour, as he seldom invited anybody to eat with him.
However, I declined living in the palace, and break-
fasted at home, but lunch and dinner Gordon insisted I
should take with him. He had abundance of work for
me letters to the Egyptian Pashas and Beys of the
various provinces ; letters to the Catholic Mission of
Gondokoro ; letters to the Pope, to the Khedive, &c., in
Italian, German, and Arabic. This went on for some
time, when one day he sent me on a mission to Unyoro.
A little later I ascended the river, and I have never
seen Gordon since."
*****
" In June, 1882, Abdul Kader Pasha wrote me that in
a couple of months he would despatch a steamer to me
with provisions and ammunition. After waiting nine
months I obtained fifteen cases only of ammunition, in
March, 1883. That is really the last supply of anything
EMIN PASHA. 445
received from the outside world until your recent arrival
in April, 1888. Five years exactly ! "
*****
" During five years I have remained isolated in this
region ; not idle, I hope. I have been kept busy in
the affairs of my Province, and have managed to find
pleasure in many things. Still, the isolation from the
civilized world has made life rather burthensome. I
could enjoy life here to the end, could I but obtain
regular news, and was certain of communication with
the outer world, receive books, periodicals, every month,
two months, or even three months. I envy those
missionaries in Uganda who receive their monthly
packet of letters, newspapers and books. Mr. Mackay
has quite a library in Uganda. That packet of " honey-
dew " tobacco I gave you the other day I obtained from
him. I received also a couple of bottles of liquor, have
had clothes, writing paper, and such news as I know I
discovered in the Spectators and Times now and then
sent me by him. But there are certain books upon
subjects which I am interested in that I could never
obtain through him without giving him and his friends
far too great a trouble. Therefore I should wish a postal
service of my own, then my life would be relieved of its
discontent. Ah, those eight years of silence ! I
cannot put my feelings in words. I could not endure
them again."
*****
I have already described his person and age, and cer-
tain qualities of his character may be discerned in the
conversation reported above ; still, the man would be
scarcely understood in the full compass of his nature if
I stopped here. His abilities, and capacity, and fitness
for the singular position in which he has been placed
will be seen in the manner in which he has managed to
clothe many of his troops. Among the gifts he pressed
upon us were pieces of cotton cloth woven by his own
men, coarse but strong, and slippers and shoes from his
own bootmakers. The condition of his steamers and
boats after such long service, the manufacture of oil
446 IN VAfiKEST AFXICA.
suitable for the engines (a mixture of sesamum oil and
tallow), the excellent sanitary arrangements and clean-
liness and order of the stations under his charge, the
regular and ungrudging payment of corn tribute twice
a year by his negro subjects, all serve to demonstrate
a unique character, and to show that he possesses talents
rarely seen in those who select Africa for their field of
labour. In endeavouring to estimate him, I pass in
mental review hundreds of officers who have served on
the Nile and the Congo, and I know of but few who
would be equal to him in any one of his valuable quali-
ties. Besides his linguistic attainments, he is a natu-
ralist, something of a botanist, and, as a surgeon, I can
well believe that thirty years of an adventurous life
such as his has been would furnish him with rare oppor-
tunities to make him wise and skilful in his profession.
The language he has used, as may be seen above, is
something higher than colloquial, and marks his attain-
ments in English. With his full sonorous voice and
measured tones, it sounded very pleasantly, despite the
foreign accent. Upon any policy treated of in news-
papers and reviews I found him exceedingly well
informed, no matter what country was broached. His
manner is highly courteous and considerate, somewhat,
perhaps, too ceremonious for Central Africa, but highly
becoming a Governor, and such as one might expect
from an official of that rank, conscious of serious respon-
sibilities.
Industry seems to be a vital necessity of life with him.
He is a model of painstaking patient effort. No sooner
has he camped than he begins to effect arrangements
orderly and after method. His table and chair have
their place, his journals on the table, the aneroids on a
convenient stand, dry and wet bulb thermometers duly
exposed in the shade, with ample air-flow about them.
The journals are marvels of neatness blotless, and the
writing microscopically minute, as though he aimed at
obtaining a prize for accuracy, economy, neatness and
fidelity. Indeed, most Germans of my acquaintance are
remarkable for the bulk of their observations and super-
EMIN PASHA. 447
fine caligraphy, while English-speaking travellers whom
I have known possess note-books which, useful as they
may be to themselves, would appear ill-kept, blotchy
and scrawly in comparison to them, and furnish infinite
trouble to their executors to edit.
* * * *
The following will illustrate something of his troubles
during the five years he has been cut off from head-
quarters at Khartoum.
Shukri Agha, Commandant of Mswa station, who
paid me a visit on the evening of the 19th May, relates
that about a year ago 190 rifles of the First Battalion
set out from Kejaf Station for Kirri, where the Pasha
resided, with the intent to capture and hold him
captive among themselves. A letter had been received
from Dr. Junker from Cairo, stating that an expedition
was to be sent to their relief, had created a confused
impression in the minds of the soldiers of the First
Battalion that their Governor intended to fly in that
direction, leaving them to their fate. Convinced that
their safety lay in the presence of their Civil Governor
among them, they conceived the idea of arresting him
and taking him with them to Rejaf, which, with the
more northern stations, was garrisoned by this battalion.
" For," said they, " we know only of one road, and that
leads down the Nile by Khartoum." * The Pasha was
suddenly informed of their intention by the officers of
the Second Battalion, and cried out, " Well, if they kill
me, I am not afraid of death ; let them come I will
await them." This the officers of the Second Battalion
at Kirri would not permit, anol implored him to make
his escape before the malcontents appeared, and argued
that " the violent capture and detention of the Governor
would put an end to all government, and be the total
ruin of all discipline." For some time he refused to
move, but finally, yielding to their solicitations, escaped
to Mswa. Soon after his departure the detachment of
* The correspondence these people maintained with Khartoum compel
me to doubt whether this is the correct reason. Read Omar Sale's letter
to the Khalifa at Khartoum, farther on.
448 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
the First Battalion appeared, and, after surrounding the
station, cried out a peremptory demand that the
Governor should come out and deliver himself to them.
They were answered that the Governor had already
departed south to Muggi and Wadelai, upon which the
mutineers advanced to the station, and seized the
Commandant and his subordinate officials, and soundly
flogged them with the kurbash, and afterwards took
most of them prisoners and carried them to Kejaf,
whither they returned.
Shukri Agha continued thus : " You must know that
all the First Battalion guard the northern stations, and
every soldier of that battalion is opposed to making any
retreat, and any suggestion of leaving their watch post
at Kejaf, the northernmost station, only makes them
indignant. They have been all along waiting to hear
of the arrival of a steamer at Lado, and are still firm in
the belief that some day the Pasha at Khartoum will
S3nd for them. - Whatever the Pasha says to the con*
trary receives utter disbelief. But now that you have
arrived by an opposite road, and some of us who were
with Linant Bey in 1875 saw you in Uganda, and many
more of us have known you by name, it is most likely
all of them will be convinced that the Nile is not the
only road to Egypt, and that you, having found them,
can take them out of the country. They will see your
officers, they will see your Soudanese, they will listen
respectfully to your message, and gladly obey. That
is my own opinion, though God only knows what the
sentiments of the First Battalion are by this time, as
sufficient time has not t elapsed to enable us to hear
from them."
*****
On telling Emin Pasha the next day the story of
Shukri Agha, he said :
" Shukri Agha is a very intelligent and brave officer,
promoted to his present rank for distinguished service
against Karamalla, one of the Mahdi's generals, when
he came here with some thousands to demand our
surrender to the authority of Mohamed Achmet."
EMIN PASHA. 449
" His story is quite true, except that he has omitted to
mention that with the 190 rifles of the First Battalion
there were 900 armed negroes. Subsequently I learned
that it had been their intention to have taken me to
Gondokoro, and detain me there until the garrisons of
the southern stations, Wadelai, Tunguru, and Mswa,
were collected, and then to have marched along the
right bank towards Khartoum. On reaching the neigh-
bourhood of Khartoum, and there learning that the city
had really fallen, they were then to disperse, each to
his own house, leaving the Cairenes and myself to shift
as we might for ourselves." *
*;.
The following are some natural history facts he
related to me :
" The forest of Msongwa (see map) is infested with a
large tribe of chimpanzees. In summer time, at night,
they frequently visit the plantations of Mswa station to
steal the fruit. But what is remarkable about this is the
fact that they use torches to light the w r ay ! Had 1
not witnessed this extraordinary spectacle personally
I should never have credited that any of the Simians
understood the art of making fire."
" One time these same chimpanzees stole a native
drum from the station, and went away pounding merrily
on it. They evidently delight in that drum, for I have
frequently heard them rattling away at it in the silence
of the night,"
He observed that parrots are never seen along the
shores of Lake Albert. Up to lat. 2 N. they are seen
in Unyoro, but the Lake people do not seem to under-
stand what is referred to when parrots are mentioned.
Our people captured a pair of very young mongoose,
which were taken to the Pasha. They were accepted,
and ordered to be nursed on milk. . He declared that
the mongoose, though he becomes very tame and is
exceedingly droll, is a nuisance. Instruments are
* Knowing this, the Pasha seems to me to have been very imprudent
in adventuring into the presence of these rebels without satisfying
himself as to the effect his presence would have on them.
VOL. I. DD
450 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
broken, ink scattered, papers and books are smeared
and soiled by this inquisitive little beast. To eggs it
is especially destructive. If it finds an egg of more
than ordinary hard shell, it lifts it with its fore-feet and
lets it drop until it is broken.
The Pasha has much to say respecting the Dinkas.
Proprietors of cattle among the Dinka tribe own from
300 to 1500 head. They rarely kill, their cattle being
kept solely for their milk and blood. The latter they
mix with sesamum oil, and then eat as a delicacy. At
the death of a herd-owner his nearest kinsman invites
his friends, and one or two beeves may be slaughtered
for the funeral feast ; otherwise one scarcely ever hears
of a Dinka killing his cattle for meat. Should one of
the herd die a natural death, the love of meat demands
that it be eaten, which is a proof that conscience does
not prohibit satisfying the stomach with meat, but
rather excessive penuriousness, cattle being the Dinka's
wealth.
These Dinkas also pay great reverence to pythons and
all kinds of snakes. One of the Soudanese officers killed
a snake, and was compelled to pay a fine of four goats.
They even domesticate them, keeping them in their
houses, but they are allowed every liberty, and to crawl
out for prey, after which they return for rest and sleep.
They wash the pythons with milk and anoint them
with butter. In almost every hut the smaller snakes
may be heard rustling in the roofs as they crawl,
exploring for rats, mice, etc.
On the east side of the Nile he found a tribe ex-
ceedingly partial to lions ; in fact, one of them would
prefer to be killed than be guilty of the death of a lion.
These people dug a pit at one time for buffaloes and
such game to fall into, but it unfortunately happened
that a lion was the first victim. The Soudanese who
discovered it were about to kill it, when the chief vetoed
the act and implored that the lion should be given to
him. The Soudanese were willing enough, and curiously
watched what he would do with it. The chief cut a
long stout pole and laid it slantwise to the bottom of
EMIN PASHA. 451
the pit, up which the lion immediately climbed and
bounded away to the jungle to enjoy his liberty. It
should be added that the noble beast did not attempt
to injure any person near the pit probably he was too
frightened ; though as pretty a story might be made out
of it as that of Androcles and the lion, did we not live
in such a veracious and prosaic age.
" Bird studies," the gray- haired lieutenant from
Cairo declared, were the Pasha's delight. Indeed, he
seems to find as great pleasure in anything relating to
birds or animals as in his military and civil duties,
though I have not observed any neglect of the last, and
the respectful soldierly bearing of his people in his
presence marks a discipline well impressed on them.
*****
From the above gleanings of such conversation as I
have noted it will be clear to any one that the Pasha has
had a varied life, one that would furnish to quiet home-
keeping people much valuable and enchanting reading
matter. It may be hoped he will see fit some day to
exhibit to them in book form some of his startling life
incidents in Asia and Africa, and rehearse in his own
pleasing manner some of the most interesting observations
he has made during a long residence amid a new and
wild nature.
452 IN DARKEST AF2UCA.
CHAPTEE XVIII.
START FOE, THE RELIEF OF THE REAR COLUMN.
Escorted by various tribes to Mukangi Camp at Ukuba village Arrival
at Fort Bodo Our invalids in Ugarrowwa's care Lieutenant Stairs'
report on his visit to bring up the invalids to Fort Bodo Night
visits by the malicious dwarfs A general muster of the garrison I
decide to conduct the Relief Force in person Captain Nelson's ill-
health My little fox-terrier " Randy " Description of the fort
The Zanzibaris Estimated time to perform the journey to Yambiiya
and back Lieutenant Stairs' suggestion about the steamer Stanley
Conversation with Lieutenant Stairs in reference to Major Barttelot
and the Rear Column Letter of instructions to Lieutenant Stairs.
1888. ON the 1st of June, escorted by a score of Mazamboni's
June i. people, we marched westward from Undussuma. In an
ang1 ' hour and a half we reached Urumangwa. This district
furnished an escort of about a hundred, the Mazambonis
withdrawing to their homes. At Unyabongo, after a
two hours' march, the people of Urumangwa likewise
withdrew, yielding their honourable duties to the people
of the new district, and these escorted us for an hour
and a half, and saw us safely housed and abundantly
fed at Mukangi. For a short time before the latter
place we were drawn up in battle array, and a fight was
imminent, but the courage and good sense of its chief
enabled both parties to avoid a useless rupture.
A good example has its imitators as well as bad
examples. The chiefs of Wombola and Kamette heard
how quickly we had embraced the friendly offers of
Mukangi, and when we marched through their districts
the next day not one war-cry was heard or a hostile figure
appeared. Those of Kamette called out to us to keep on
our way, it is true, but it was just, as we had no business
in Kamette, and the day was yet young ; but on our
arrival at the next village, Ukuba, we were tired, and
disposed to rest after a five hours' march. But Ukuba,
THE SILENCE OF THE FOREST. 453
of Besse district, had already experienced our weapons isss.
on the 1 2th April last, and we were permitted to camp June 2 *
quietly. At subset we were gratified at seeing several
of the natives walking unarmed to camp, and in the
morning they came again with presents of a milch goat,
some fowls, and enough plantains for all.
On the 3rd we pressed on rapidly, and captured the
canoes to ferry our party across the Ituri, which, though
there had been but little rain of late, we found to be as
full as in rainy April.
On the next' day we captured a woman of Mande
after crossing the river, and released her to tell her
people that we were harmless enough if the road was
undisturbed. It may extend the area over which peace
between us and the natives is established.
On the 5th we camped at Baburu, and on the next
day at W. Indenduru. On the 7th a seven hours' march
brought us to a stream called Miwale Eiver, from the
great number of raphia palms ; and the next day W3
entered Fort Bodo, bringing with us six head of cattle,
a flock of sheep and goats, a few loads of native
tobacco, four gallons of the Pasha's whisky, and some
other little luxuries, to joy the hearts of the garrison.
Such an utter silence prevails in the forest that we
were mutually ignorant of each other's fate during
our sixty-seven days' separation. Until we approached
within 400 yards of Fort Bodo we could not divine
what had become of Lieutenant Stairs, who, it will be
remembered, had been despatched on the 16th February
to Ugarrowwa's to conduct such convalescents as could
be found there to us to share in such fortune as might
happen to us in the open country, whose very view
had proved so medicinable to our men. Nor could the
garrison guess what luck had happened to us. But
when our rifles woke up the sleeping echoes of the
forest with their volleys, the sounds had scarcely died
away before the rifles of the garrison responded,
and as we knew that Fort Bodo still existed, those
immured within the limits of the clearing became aware
that we had returned from the Nyanza.
454 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. Lieutenant Stairs was first to show himself and hail
June 8. ug ^ an( j c } ose after him Captain Nelson, both in excellent
' condition, but of rather pasty complexion. Their men
then came trooping up, exuberant joy sparkling in
their eyes and glowing in their faces, for these children
of Nature know not the art of concealing their moods or
disguising their emotions.
But, alas ! for my estimates. Since I have entered
the forest region they have always been on the erring
side. After computing carefully, as I thought, every
mile of the course to be travelled and every obstacle
likely to be met by him and his lightly -laden escort, I
was certain Lieutenant Stairs would be with us after an
absence of thirty-nine days. We stayed forty-seven days,
as we were assured it would please him to be present
at the successful termination or crowning triumph of
our efforts. He arrived after seventy-one days' absence,
and by that date we had already communicated with
Emin Pasha.
I had estimated also that out of the fifty- six invalids
left in the care of Ugarrowwa, and boarded at our
expense, at least forty convalescents would be ready, fit
for marching, but Mr. Stairs found most of them in
worse condition than when they parted from us. All
the Somalis were dead except one, and the survivor but
lived to reach Ipoto. Out of the fifty-six there were
but thirty-four remaining. One of these was Juma, with
foot amputated ; three were absent foraging. Out of the
thirty sorry band of living skeletons delivered to him
fourteen died on the road, one was left at Ipoto, the
remaining fifteen survived to exhibit their nude bodies
disfigured by the loath liest colours and effects of chronic
disease. The following is the letter describing Mr.
Stairs' remarkable journey, which amply accounts for
his detention :
" Fort Bodo, Ibwiri, Central Africa,
SIB "June fi*A, 1888.
" I have the honour to report that in accordance with your orders
of the 15th February, 1888, 1 left this place on the Ifith of that month
with an escort of twenty couriers and other details, to proceed to
Ugarrowwa's station on the Ituri, forward the couriers on their journey to
EEMAEKABLE JOURNEY BY ME. STAIRS. 455
Major Barttelot's column, relieve the invalids left in charge of Ugarrowwa, jggg
and bring them on to this station. j une 8
" Leaving this place, then, on the 16th, we reached Kilimani Hill village P
on the 17th. Next day I decided to follow a large native track, well )do<
worn, about two miles west of Kilimani on our through track to Ipoto ;
accordingly we started off this up till 11 a.m. After we had gone this
length, the track struck too much to the north and east; I therefore
looked for other tracks, hoping by following one to at last get on to a
large road, and thus work through to the Ihuru. Finding one, we
followed it up some two miles or so, and then found that it ended
abruptly, and no further trace could be found of it. Keturning to our
former road we moved on, and that day made four more endeavours to
get north-west or somewhere in that direction ; late at night we camped,
just before dark, having found a blazed track. On the next day, 19th, we
followed this track north-west at a fast rate, and about 10 a.m. came on
to an old village. The blazes here ended ; no further signs of a track
could we find leading out of the village, though we hunted thoroughly
in every direction. Returning again, and following a large track north-
east, we made still another try, but here again the track ended.
" After some consideration 1 returned to our camp of yesterday, and
decided on following a road leading towards Mabungu, and then take a
side road, said by the natives to lead to the Ihuru, but on following this
we found it lead merely up to some Wambutti huts, and here ran out.
" After taking my head men's opinion, I then decided on returning
and following our old road to Ipoto, there to procure two guides and
follow on the track to Uledi's village, and there cross the Ihuru and
follow down on north side, &c. My reasons for doing these were : If I
should go on like this, looking for tracks, I should lose probably four or
five days, and this with my limited time would not be admissible ; and,
secondly, that to attempt to split our way on a bearing through the bush
to the river would take perhaps five days, which would quite counter-
balance any advantage a north road might possess. Reaching Kilonga
Longa's on the 22nd, we arranged for a party to take us by a road south
of Ituri, and on the 24th left. On the 1st of March crossed the Lenda,
courses now N.W. and N.N.W. On the 9th reached Farishi, the upper
station of Ugarrowwa. On the 14th we reached Ugarrowwa's, on the Ituri,
early in the morning. For many days we had been having rains, and
owing to these I suffered very much from fevers, and on getting to
Ugarrowwa's had to remain in bed for two days.
" At U.'s some eight or ten were away foraging, and to get these
required three and a half days.
" Fifty-six (56) men were left with Ugarrowwa, viz., five Somalis, five
Nubians, and forty-six Zanzibaris, on the 18th of September, 1887. Of
this total twenty-six had died, including all the Somalis except Dualla.
There were still two men out when I left. Baraka W. Moussa I detailed
as a courier in place of another (who had been left at Ipoto with bad
ulcer), and Juma B. Zaid remained with Ugarrowwa.
" The majority of the men were in a weak state when I arrived, and on
leaving I refused to take seven of these. Ugarrowwa, however, point
blank refused to keep them, so thus I was obliged to bring on men with
the certainty of their dying on the march.
" Early on the 16th, Abdullah and his couriers were despatched down
river. On the 17th took our forty-four rifles from Ugarrowwa, and out
of these made him a present of two and forty-two rounds Kemington
ammunition.
" On the 18th closed with U. for $870, being $30 for twenty-nine men;
also handed him his bills of exchange and your letter.
456 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. " O* 1 same day left for Ibwiri with following.
June 8. " From the 19th to '23rd, when I reached Farishi, the rain was constant,
F -t Bod ma ki n g the track heavy and the creeks difficult in crossing. From here
' on to Ipoto I had bad fevers day after day, and having no one to carry
me, had to make marches of five to seven miles per day. The constant
wettings and bad roads had made all the men very low-spirited, some
doubting even that there was help ahead. Reached Ipoto April llth,
left 13th ; and after more trouble from fever reached here on 26th April.
All glad to see the Fort. Dualla, the Somali, I was obliged to leave at
Ipoto. Tarn, a former donkey-boy, deserted on the road. Of the draft
of invalids (twenty-six) ten had died. Kibwana also died from chest
disease in camp near Mambungu. Out of fifty-six invalids brought
fourteen alive to the Fort.
" On reaching Fort Bodo I found you had been so long gone that I
could not follow up with safety with the few rifles I could command, and
so remained at this station and reported myself to Captain Nelson, who
was left in charge of the Fort by you.
" Floods, rains, fevers, and other illnesses had been the cause of our
long delay, and those of us who were in fit condition at all, felt bitterly
the disappointment at not being able to reach you.
" I have the honour to be, &c.,
" W. G. STAIKS, Lieut. R.E.
" To M. H. STANLEY, Esq."
Of the condition of the garrison at Fort Bodo there
was but little to complain ; the ulcerous persons, though
nothing improved, were not worse ; the anaemic victims of
the tortures of Manyuema at Ipoto had gained possibly
a few ounces in weight ; the chronically indolent and
malingerers still existed to remind us by their aspects of
misery that they were not suitable for the long and
desperate journey yet before us. We expected all this.
The long journey to Yambuya and back, 1,070 miles,
could never be performed by unwilling men. It would
be volunteers, fired by interest, stimulated by the
knowledge that, this one task ended, forest miseries,
famine, damp, rain, mud, gloom, vegetable diet,
poisoned arrows, would be things and griefs of the
past ; and then the joys of the grass land, divine light,
brightness and warmth of full day, careering of grass
before the refreshing gales, the consolation of knowing
that heaven is above, and the earth, yet full of glad
life, glowing with beneficence and blandness, ever before
them. Oh, gracious God ! hasten the day. But can
black men, the " brutes," " niggers," " black devils," feel
so ? We shall see.
One crop of Indian corn had been harvested, and was
THE FAITHFUL ZANZIBAR1S. 457
stored snugly in granaries, the fields were being pre- isss.
pared anew for replanting, the banana plantations still June 8
furnished unlimited supplies of food, the sweet potatoes F(
grew wild in various places, and there was a fair stock
of beans.
The malicious dwarfs (the Wambutti) had paid noc-
turnal visits, and ravaged somewhat the corn fields, and
Lieut. Stairs, with a few choice spirits of the garrison,
had given chase to the marauders and had routed them,
losing one man in the action, but scaring the undersized
thieves effectually.
The Fort now contained 119 Zanzibaris of the Advance,
four of Emin Pasha's soldiers, ninety-eight Madi carriers,
and three whites from the Albert Nyanza, besides fifty-
seven Zanzibaris and Soudanese, and two officers who
formed the garrison total, 283 souls. It was out of
this number we were to form a column of Zanzibari
volunteers and Madi carriers to hasten to the relief of
Major Barttelot and the Kear Column.
After a two days' rest a general muster was made.
The necessities of our condition were explained aloud to
them ; our white brothers were labouring under God
alone knew what difficulties difficulties that appeared
greater to them than they did to us, inasmuch as we
had gone through them and survived, and could afford
to make light of them. For knowledge would teach us
to be more prudent of our rations, where to refresh our
jaded bodies, and when to hasten through the inter-
vening wildernesses, husbanding our resources. Our
meeting would rejoice our poor friends, distressed by
our long absence, and our good news would reanimate
the most feeble and encourage the despairing. They
all knew what treasures of cloth and beads were in
charge of the Rear Column. We could not carry all, as
indeed there was no need for so much. How could -it
better be bestowed than on the tireless faithful fellows
who had taken their master twice to the Nyanza and
back to his long-lost friends ! "I pray you, then, come
to my side ye that are willing, and ye that prefer to
stay in the Fort remain in the ranks."
458 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. Exulting in their lusty strength, perfect health, and
in their acknowledged worth, 107 men cried aloud, "To
)do ' the Major ! " " To the Major ! " and sprang to my side,
leaving only six, who were really indisposed by illness
and growing ulcers, in their places.
Those who understand men will recognize some
human merits exhibited on this occasion, though others
may be as blind in perceiving the finer traits in human
nature, as there are many utterly unable to perceive in
a picture the touches which betray the masterful hand
of a great painter, or in a poem the grace and smooth-
ness, combined with vigour and truth, of the true poet.
After selecting out a few of the garrison to replace
those unable to undertake the long march before us,
there remained only to distribute twenty-five days'
rations of Indian corn to each member of the Relief
Force, and to advise that in addition each man and boy
should prepare as much plantain flour as he could
carry
Until the evening of the 15th of June all hands were
engaged in reducing the hard corn with pestle and
mortar and sieve into flour, or corn rice, called " grits,"
in peeling the plantains, slicing, drying them on wood
grating over a slow fire, and pounding them into fine
flour. I, on my part, besides arranging the most need-
ful necessaries required for general uses, had many per-
sonal details to attend to, such as repairs of pantaloons,
shoes, chair, umbrella, rain-coat, etc.
My intention was to conduct the Relief Force in
person, unattended by any officers, for many reasons,
but mainly because every European implied increase of
baggage, which was now required to be of the very
smallest limit consistent with the general safety.
Besides, Lieut. Stairs, in my opinion, deserved rest after
his trip to Ipoto to bring the steel boat to Fort Bodo,
and his journey to Ugarrowwa's was to conduct the
convalescents. Captain Nelson, ever since the latter
part of September, 1887, had been subject to ever-
varying complaints first ulcers, then a general debility
which almost threatened his life, then skin eruptions,
"RANDY" THE FOX-TERRIER. 459
lumbago, tender feet, and fits of obstinate ague. To a issi.
person in such a vitiated condition of blood a journey of June 8
the kind about to be undertaken would doubtless prove Fort ]
fatal. Dr. Parke, the only other officer availing, was
needed for the sick at the Fort, as in truth the entire
garrison consisted mainly of people requiring medical
attendance and treatment.
With great difficulty we were able to select fourteen
men of the garrison to accompany Captain Nelson as far
as Ipoto, to convey the dozen loads of baggage still
remaining there ; but as we were about to start, the
Captain was prostrated with another attack of inter-
mittent fever, and a strange swelling of the hand, which
made it necessary for Dr. Parke to replace him for this
short journey.
The faithful little fox-terrier " Randy," which had
borne the fatigues of the double march to the Albert
Nyanza so well, and had been such a good friend to us
in an hour of great need, and had become the pet of
every one, though " Randy " would not permit a Zan-
zibari to approach me unannounced, was committed to
the care of Lieutenant Stairs, in the hope of saving
him the thousand-mile journey now before us. But
the poor dog misjudged my purpose, and resolutely re-
fused his food from the moment I left him, and on
the third day after my departure he died of a broken
heart.
Upon carefully considering the state of the Fort, and
the condition of its garrison, and the capacity of its
Commandant, Lieut. Stairs, who would be assisted by
Captain Nelson and Dr. Parke, I felt the utmost
assurance that, with sixty rifles and abundant stores of
ammunition, they were invulnerable from any attack of
forest natives, however strong their forces might be. A
wide and deep ditch ran round two-thirds of it. At
each of its angles a commanding platform, closely fenced,
had been erected, with approaches and flanks duly under
rifle range, and each angle was connected by a continuous
stockade, well banked with earth without and supported
within by a firm banquette. The main roads leading to
460 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. the Fort were also fenced, to serve as obstructions. The
June 8. v i}} a g e inhabited by the garrison lay on the side
x unprotected by the ditch, and was arranged in V shape,
to mask the entrance into the Fort. During daylight
no hostile party could approach within 150 yards of
the Fort unperceived. At night ten sentries would be
sufficient precaution against surprise and fire.
This protection was not so much designed against
natives alone as against a possible and by no means
unlikely combination of Manyuema with natives. As
much might be urged for the likelihood of such a
combination as against it ; but it is a totally wrong policy
to be idle before an uncertain issue, and of the hundreds
of camps or stations established by me in Africa, not
one has been selected without considering every near or
remote contingency.
I was about to leave Fort Bodo without the least
anxiety respecting the natives and Manyuema, as also
without fear of incompatibility between the officers and
Zanzibaris. The officers were now acquainted with the
language of their people, as well as with their various
habits, tempers, and moods, and the men could equally
distinguish those of their officers. Both parties also
believed that their stay at Fort Bodo was not likely to
be protracted, as the Pasha had promised to visit them
within two months, and from a visit of one of his
considerate and thoughtful character they might surely
infer they would derive pleasure as well as profit. On
his return to the Nyanza they could accompany him,
abandoning the Fort to its fate.
Of the fidelity of the Zanzibaris there was also no
room for doubt. However tyrannical or unjust the
officers might be an extreme conjecture the Zanzi-
baris could only choose between them on the one hand,
and the cannibalism of the Wambutti and the incarnate
cruelty of the Manyuema on the other.
Would that I could have felt the same confidence
and contentment of mind regarding the Bear Column.
With the lapse of months had been the increase of my
anxiety. As week after week had flown by, my faith
ESTIMATES OF JOURNEYS.
461
in its safety had become weakened and my mind isss.
fatigued with the continual conflict of its hopes and / une a
doubts, with the creation of ingenious and fine theories,
and their no less subtle demolition, was, perforce, con-
strained for its own repose and health to forbear
thought and take refuge in the firm belief that the
Major was still at Yambuya, but abandoned. Our
duty was, therefore, to proceed to Yambuya, select the
most necessary material equal to our carrying force, and
march back to the Nyanza again with what speed we
might.
On this supposition I framed an estimate of the time
to be occupied by the journey, and handed it, with a
letter of instructions, to the Commandant of the Fort
for his use :
" Whereas the distance between Fort Bodo to the Nyanza is 125 miles,
and has been performed in 268 hours' marching, or 74 days, inclusive of
halts.
" Whereas we travelled the distance from Yambuya to Ugarrowwa's
in 289 hours = 74 days.
" Whereas Lieutenant Stairs marched from Ugarrowwa's
to Fort Bodo in . 26
" Therefore our journey to Yambuya will probably occupy 100 days,
and the same period back. From June 16th, 1888, to January 2nd,
189, is 20u days. We may reasonably be expected on January 2nd
at Fort Bodo, and on the 22nd of the same month at Lake Albert.
" Or thus : Starting June 16th, 1888 :
Fort Bodo to
Thence to
)) )>
Halt 10 days
Eeturn to
Halt 5 days
Thence to
Ugarrowwa's
Avisibba .
Mupe
Yambuya .
Mupe
Panga Falls
Fort Bodo
Albert Nyanza
July 5th
25th
Aug. 14th
Sept. 3rd
13th
Oct. 3rd
23rd
Dec. 22nd
27th
Jan. 16th, 1889."
The last evening of my stay at Fort Bodo, while re-
citing over the several charges, general and personal,
entrusted to him, Lieut. Stairs suggested that perhaps
the non-arrival of the steamer Stanley at Yambuya
462 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. accounted for the utter silence respecting the Eear
June s. C i umn I then replied in the following terms :
" That is rather a cruel suggestion, my dear sir ; that
is the least I fear, for as well as I was able I provided
against that accident. You must know that when the
Stanley departed from the Yambuya on the 28th of June,
I delivered several letters to the captain of the steamer.
One was to my good friend Lieut. Liebrichts, Governor
of Stanley Pool district, charging him, for old friend-
ship's sake, to despatch the steamer back as soon as
possible with our goods and reserve ammunition.
" Another was to Mr. Swinburne, my former secretary,
who was the soul of fidelity, to the effect that in case
the Stanley met with such an accident as to prevent
her return to Yambuya, he would be pleased to sub-
stitute the steamer Florida for her, as the owners were
business men, and full compensation in cash, which I
guaranteed, would find as ready an acceptance with
them as profits from the ivory trade.
" A third letter was to Mr. Antoine Greshoff, the agent
at Stanley Pool for the Dutch house at Banana, to the
effect that, failing both steamers Stanley and Florida,
he would find a large ready money profit if he would
undertake the transport of the stores of the Expedi-
tion from Stanley Pool, and 128 men from Bolobo,
to Yambuya. Whatever reasonable freight and fare
he would charge, immediate payment was guaranteed
by me.
" A fourth letter was to our officer in charge at
Stanley Pool, Mr. John Eose Troup, to the effect that,
failing the steamers Stanley, Florida, and Mr. Greshoff 's,
he was to use his utmost powers and means to collect
boats and canoes, at whatever cost, ready at hand, and
communicate with Messrs. Ward and Bonny at Bolobo.
Mr. Ward at Bolobo was also enjoined to do the like
in Uyanzi, and man these vessels with the Zanzibaris
and natives, and transport by stages the various stores
to the intrenched camp at Yambuya. This last would
scarcely be needed, as it is extremely improbable that
from June 28th, 1887, to June 16th, 1888 nearly
SPECULATING ABOUT THE MAJOR. 463
twelve months neither the Stanley, the Florida, nor isss.
Mr. Greshoffs steamer would be available for our June8 '
service.
"Besides, you must remember that both captain
and engineer of the Stanley were each promised a
reward of 50 sterling if they would arrive within
reasonable time. Such amounts to poor men are not
trifles, and I feel assured that if they have not been
prevented by their superiors from fulfilling their
promise, all goods and men arrived safely at Yambuya."
"You still think, then, that in some way Major
Barttelot is the cause of this delay ? "
" Yes, he and Tippu-Tib. The latter of course has
broken his contract. There is no doubt of that. For
if he had joined his 600 carriers, or half that number,
with our Zanzibaris, we should have heard of them
long ago, either at Ipoto, when you returned there for
the boat, or later, when you reached Ugarrowwa's,
March 16th this year. The letter of September 18th,
1887, when only eighty-one days absent from Yam-
buya, and which the Arab promised without delay,
would certainly have produced an answer by this if
the Major had departed from Yambuya. Those carriers,
all choice men, well armed, acquainted with the road,
despatched with you to Ugarrowwa's on February 16th,
and seen by you safely across the river opposite his
station on the 16th of the following month, would
surely by this have returned if the Kear Column was
only a few weeks' march from Yambuya ; therefore I am
positive in my mind that Major Barttelot is in some
way or other the cause of the delay."
"Well, I am sure, however you may think the
Major is disloyal, I ."
" Disloyal ! Why, whoever put you in mind of that
word ? Such a word has no connection with any man
on this Expedition, I hope. Disloyal ! Why should
any one be disloyal ? And disloyal to whom ? "
' Well, not disloyal, but negligent, or backward in
pressing on ; I feel sure he has done his best."
" No doubt he has done his level best, but as I wrote
464 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. to him on September 18th, in my letter to be given to
June 8. fa m by Ugarrowwa's carriers, it is his ' rashness and in-
' ' experience I dread,' not his disloyalty or negligence. I
fear the effect of indiscriminate punishments on his
people has been such that the vicinity of Stanley Falls
and the Arabs has proved an irresistible temptation to
desert. If our letters miscarry in any way, our long
absence twelve months nearly to this day, and by the
time we reach Yambuya fourteen months at least !
will be a theme for all kinds of reports. When the
Zanzibaris from Bolobo reached him he ought to have
had over 200 carriers. In twelve months assuming
that the goods and men arrived in due date, and that,
finding Tippu-Tib had broken faith, he began the move
as he promised he would be at Panga Falls ; but if
the severe work has demoralized him, and he has de-
moralized his carriers, well, then, he is stranded far
below Panga Falls probably at Wasp Eapids, probably
at Mupe or at Banalya, or at Gwengwere Rapids with
but 100 despairing carriers and his Soudanese, and he is
perforce compelled by the magnitude of his task to halt
and wait. I have tried every possible solution, and this
is the one on which my opinion becomes fixed."
"Do you allow only 100 left? Surely that is very
low."
" Why ? I estimate his loss at what we have lost
about 50 per cent. We have lost slightly less ; for
from our original force of 389 souls there are 203 still
alive : 4 at Nyanza, 60 in the Fort, 119 going with me,
and 20 couriers.
" Yes ; but the Rear Column has not endured a
famine such as we have had."
" Nor have they enjoyed the abundance that we
have fed upon for the last seven months, therefore we
are perhaps equal. But it is useless to speculate further
upon these points.
" The success which was expected from my plans has
eluded me. The Pasha never visited the south end of
the Lake, as I suggested to him in my letter from
Zanzibar. This has cost us four months, and of Barttelot
INSTRUCTIONS TO LIEUT. STAIRS. 465
there is not a word. Our men have fallen by scores,
and wherever I turn there is no comfort to be derived J ne 8.
from the prospect. Evil hangs over this forest as a
pall over the dead ; it is like a region accursed for
crimes ; whoever enters within its circle becomes subject
to Divine wrath. All we can say to extenuate any
error that we have fallen into is, that our motives are
pure, and that our purposes are neither mercenary nor
selfish. Our atonement shall be a sweet offering, the
performance of our duties. Let us bear all that may
be put upon us like men bound to the sacrifice, without
one thought of the results. Each day has its weight of
troubles. Why should we think of the distresses of
to-morrow ? Let me depart from you with the convic-
tion that in my absence you will not swerve from your
duty here, and Ineed not be anxious for you. If the
Pasha and Jephson arrive with carriers, it is better for
you, for them, and for me that you go ; if they do not
come, stay here until my return. Give me a reasonable
time, over and above the date the 22nd of December;
then if I return not, consult with your friends, and
afterwards with your men, and do what is best and
wisest. As for us, we shall march back to the place
where Barttelot may be found, even as far as Yambuya,
but to no place beyond, though he may have taken
everything away with him down the Congo. If he has
left Yambuya and wandered far away south-east instead
of east, I will follow him up and overtake him, and
will cut through the forest in the most direct way to
Fort Bodo. You must imagine all this to have taken
place if I do not arrive in December, and consider that
many other things may have occurred to detain us
before you yield to the belief that we have parted for
ever."
The following is the letter of instructions to Lieut.
Stairs :
" Fort Bodo, Central Africa,
SIR _ "June 13th, 1888.
" During my absence with the advance party of the Expedition,
now about to return to the assistance of Major Barttelot and Eear
VOL. I. EE
466 itf DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. Column, I appoint you Commandant of Fort Bodo. I leave with yon a
June 13. garrison, inclusive of sick, numbering nearly sixty rifles. The men
Fort Bodo. mam ly are n t f the calibre requisite for a garrison in a dangerous
country. Still they can all shoot off their rifles, are in good condition,
and you have abundance of ammunition. My principal reliance is on
the Commandant himself. If the chief is active and wary, our fort is
safe, and no combination of natives can oust the garrison from its shelter.
I need not tell you that I leave you with confidence.
" Kespecting the improvements to be made in the Fort, which I have
verbally explained to you, I would suggest that as the Fort when
completed will be more extensive than at present, you elect about
twenty or thirty of the more decent and cleanly of the men to occupy the
buildings in the Fort, until such time as they are wanted for other
persons, because
" 1st. You are iu no danger, then, of being cut off by a daring foe from
your garrison.
" 2nd One-third of your men will be then within the gates ready at
yonr most sudden call.
" 3rd. The buildings within the Fort will be kept dry and in a habit-
able condition by being occupied.
"Corn. Begin planting corn about July 15th. 1st July you should
foegin hoeing up, clearing the ground.
"Bananas. I am exceedingly anxious about the bananas. Twice a
week there should be sent a strong patrol round the plantations to scare
the natives, and also elephants. For the latter half- a-dozen fires at as
many points might suffice.
"An officer should be sent out with the patrol, to have a reliable
report of what transpires; should he report the bananas as getting
scanty, then you should begin rationing your people, always obtaining
your supplies by detachments from the most distant points of the
plantations. Let the bananas nearest the Fort reach maturity, just as
you would your corn. Along the main roads it would also be well to
leave plantations alone until they mature.
" I leave Captain Nelson as second in command, to take charge when
you are incapacitated by illness or accident.
" Dr. T. H. Parke, A.M.D., remains here as surgeon to take charge of
the sick.
" It is, of course, impossible to say when we shall return, as we have
not the least idea whereabouts the Rear Column is, but we shall do our
best. If the Major is still at Yambuya, you may expect us in December
sometime
"I expect Emin Pasha and Mr. Jephson in here about two months
hence say about the middle of August.
" Should Mr. Jephson appear with a sufficient force of carriers, then I
should recommend the evacuation of the Fort and take the garrison, and
accompany Mr. Jephson to the Nyanza, and put yourself and force at the
disposition of Emia Pasha until my return. As I come eastward I
propose following a northerly' and easterly track from the Nepoko and
make for the Ituri ferry.
" In order that on reaching the Ituri ferry I may know whether you
have evacuated the Fort or not, please remember that on the right bank
of the river, near the ferry, there are a number of very tall trees, on
which you could carve a number of broad arrows, which would indicate
that you had passed. You could also carve date of crossing the Ituri on
a conspicuous place near the ferry. This would save me a great deal of
time and anxiety respecting you.
" As our twenty couriers left here 16th February, it will be four
INSTRUCTIONS TO LIEUT. STAIRS. 467
months, June 16th, since they left. If Jephson appears in about two 1988.
months, say, the time will then be about six months since the couriers June 13.
left Fort Bodo quite sufficient time to dispel all doubt about them. Fort j^
" I wish you and your associates good health and safe arrival at the
Nyanza. On our part we will do our work with what celerity circum-
stances will permit.
" Yours faithfully,
"(Signed) HENRY M. STANLEY,
" Commanding E. P. K. Expedition.
" To Lieut. W. G STAIRS,
" Commandant For"!; Bodo."
468 fit DARKEST AFRICA.
CHAPTER XIX.
ARRIVAL AT BANALYA : BARTTELOT DEAD.
The Relief Force The difficulties of marching We reach Ipoto
Kilongo Longa apologises for the behaviour of his Manyuema The
chief returns us some of our rifles Dr. Parke and fourteen men
return to Fort Bodo Ferrying across the Ituri river Indications of
some of our old camps We unearth our buried stores The
Manyuema escort Bridging the Lenda river The famished Ma li
Accidents and deaths among the Zanzibaris and Madi My little
fox-terrier " Randy " The vast clearing of Ujangwa Native women
guides We reach Ugarrowwa's abandoned station Welcome food
at Amiri Falls Navabi Falls Halt at Avamburi landing-place
Death of a Madi chief Our buried stores near Basopo unearthed
and stolen Juma and Nassib wander away from the column The
evils of forest marching Conversation between my tent- boy, Sali>
and a Zanzibari Numerous bats at Ma,bengu village We reach
Avisibba, and find a young Zanzibari girl Nejambi Rapids and
Panga Falls The natives of Panga At Mugwye's we disturb an
intended feast We overtake Ugarrowwa at Wasp Rapids and find
our couriers and some deserters in his camp The head courier
relates his tragic story Amusing letter from Dr. Parke to Major
Barttelot Progress of our canoe flotilla down the river The
Batunda natives Our progress since leaving the Nyauza Thoughts
about the Rear Column Desolation along the banks of the river
We reach Banalya Meeting with Bonny The Major is dead
Banalya Camp.
1888. O N the 16th of June, in the early morning we set out
June 16. from Fort Bodo towards Yambuya in excellent spirits,
Fort Bodo. i ouc liy cheered by the garrison and with the best wishes
of the officers. We numbered 113 Zanzibaris, ninety-five
Madi carriers, four of Emin Pasha's soldiers, two whites
besides Dr. Parke and his little band of fourteen men,
whose company we were to have as far as Ipoto.
Indekaru was reached on the evening of the 17th, amid
a heavy storm of rain. The next day was a halt to
collect more plantains. On the 19th we camped at
Ndugu-bisha, the day following at Nzalli's. We had by
this time been introduced to the difficulties of forest
IN SEARCH OF THE REAR-COLUMN. 469
marching. The cries of the column leaders recalled most isss.
painfully what an absence of seven months had caused June 20 *
us almost to forget.
" Red ants afoot ! Look out for a stump, ho ! Skewers !
A pitfall to right ! a burrow to left ! Thorns, thorns,
'ware thorns ! Those ants ; lo ! a tripping creeper,
Nettles, 'ware nettles ! A hole ! Slippery beneath,
beneath ! look out for mud ! A root ! Red ants ! red
ants amarch ! Look sharp for ants ! A log ! Skewers
below ! " And so on from camp to camp.
Most of the villages along this route still stood, but all
awry and decaying ; reeling from rotten uprights, the
eave corners on the ground, green mould covering the
floors within, hollows filled with slime, and fungi
flourishing along the sides, and nitrous excrescences
abounding ; roofs covered with creepers, nettles, and
prolific gourd vines veritable nests of ague, into which,
however, necessity compelled us and our men to seek
shelter by reason of excessive fatigue, or imminence of a
rainstorm.
Mambungu's was reached on the 21st, and on the
edge of the Busindi clearing we camped on the following-
day. After forty-seven hours marching from Fort Bodo
we entered the Arab settlement of Ipoto, where it will
be remembered our people, maddened by distress of
hunger, caused me such serious losses of arms and
ammunition. But the change in their condition was so
great, and their eyes flashed such lively glances of scorn
at their tormentors, that in the afternoon Kilonga-Longa,
with his head-men, dreading reprisal, began with many
apologies for the behaviour of his Manyuema during his
absence to extenuate the heinousness of their crimes, and
to offer to atone for them as well as he was able.
Nineteen Remingtons were laid before me, out of thirty
I knew to be in their possession. Six of these had been
left as pledges of payment by myself, two were given by
Mr. Stairs acting in my name, one was sold by Captain
Nelson, and ten were sold by Zanzibaris, besides eleven
not yet recovered ; but out of 3000 cartridges and two
entire cases these receivers of stolen goods purchased
470 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. from the starving Zanzibaris, only fifty were returned.
June 21. \\r na t ever fears the Manyuema may have felt, the fit time
for reprisal and retaliation had not arrived, though fifty
rifles could have captured the settlement easily, the
majority of Kilonga-Longa's people being absent raiding
eastward. We had far more important business afoot
than the destruction of Ipoto, nor must it be forgotten
that our little garrison at Fort Bodo was not so secure
but that a few hundreds of men made desperate by their
losses might not avenge themselves fully by a siege or
midnight assault.
We therefore, bending under the necessities of the
occasion, accepted the rifles and gifts of goat and rice,
and the Zanzibaris were permitted to sell such ivory as
they had packed up for 100 pecks of rice, which to them
was most welcome provender.
The next day the chief returned two more rifles, but
all my men being sufficiently armed, he was requested
to retain them as pledges, in addition to the six
remaining in his hands, for payment of ninety doti of
cloth promised to him and his people for the grudging
and scant sustenance given to Captain Nelson and Dr.
Parke while they were compulsory guests of this ill-
natured community.
In the afternoon Dr. Parke and his little band of
fourteen men commenced their return journey to Fort
Bodo, conveying thirteen loads, and bearing the very
last instructions I could give.
On the 25th June we set out from Ipoto accompanied
by a guide and our escort of fifteen Manyuema, who were
ostentatiously detailed for this duty as far as the next
Arab settlement, one of Ugarrowwa's outlying stations.
We arrived at the Ituri River, and a canoe capable of
carrying nine men was delivered over to us at 3 P.M. to
serve as the means of ferriage. As one trip to the left
bank and back occupied on an average twenty-three
minutes, night fell before a half of our force was
across.
The work of ferrying was resumed early next morning,
and continued until two o'clock, when every soul had
THE WIDE UNINHABITED WILDERNESS. 471
crossed excepting the Manyuema escort whose fears that isss.
sudden vengeance would be inflicted on them, caused June25 -
them to decline the venture they had been ordered to Itun
undertake.
We were now fairly in the wide uninhabited wilder-
ness through which last October the Expedition
struggled, gaunt victims of a merciless famine. No
consideration would have tempted us to a revisit of
these dreadful shades, but that we fostered a lively
hope that we should soon meet our returning couriers,
who we expected would gratify us with news from the
Major's column. Imbued with the fond belief that as
they had not arrived at Ipoto we should meet them
on this road none other being known to them we
marched briskly from the landing-place, and in two and
three-quarter hours reached the camp whence we had
crossed over to the north bank on the , 1 4th of October
last. Indications of our stay here were yet fresh the
charcoal broad arrows drawn on the barked tree stems,
the lead pencil writing to Khamis Parry still plainly
legible.
At 1.15 P.M. of the 28th we arrived at Nelson's camp,
opposite the confluence of the Ihuru with the Ituri, a
place which last October witnessed such death and
agony, where poor Nelson sat so many hours, so many
wretched days with ulcered feet, waiting anxiously the
arrival of news from us, and where he was found by his
friend Mounteney Jephson, haggard, and reduced by his
feelings of forlornness and despair into a state of abject
helplessness, in the midst of his dying and dead
companions. We had performed the march in twenty
hours, or in four days inclusive of our detention while
ferrying with one small craft. Last October, despite
our strenuous endeavours, the same distance had occu-
pied us thirty-nine hours' marching, or thirteen days
inclusive of the halt ! The condition of the stomach
made all this great difference.
We found our cache untouched, though we had strong
doubts, and unearthed our buried stores which Jephson's
relief party was unable to carry away. The ammunition,
472 IN DARKEST AFBICA.
1886. made by Kynoch of Birmingham, after eight months'
June 28. jj ur i a i i n the sand, subject to tropic damp and an eternal
ram > was n t so m uch injured as we expected, a full
eighty per cent, of it being still sound, and the well-
waxed brass cases and copper caps yet exhibited their
native brightness and gloss. Distributing 1,000
rounds to the men for the refilling of their pouches,
selecting such other articles as were useful, we made up
eight loads, and after burying the rest as superfluous,
we hurried away from the hateful spot, camping far
inland.
Arriving at camp, we discovered four Madi carriers
to have deserted with the kits of their Zanzibar! mates.
Had they known, what we could never forget, of the
evil repute of this wilderness, they probably would have
chosen the brawling river for their graves than the slow
torture of famine in the ruthless forest.
At sunset we were surprised to see the Manyuema
escort reach our camp. They had fled to Kilonga
Longa's, and that gentleman had sternly ordered them
to follow us again, and not to return without a note
reporting they had performed the duty on which they
had been sent.
On the 29th we left the river route and steered a
south-westerly course through the pathless forest, in
order to strike the road taken by Mr. Stairs' party on
their return from Ugarrowwa's. As the head-man Eashid
bin Omar was of our party, we presumed as he asserted
his faith in himself that he would recognize the path
if it were shown to him, after which of course there
would be no difficulty. The whole of the 29th and 30th
were occupied in this south-westerly course undeviating.
We meanwhile crossed several native paths, but as
Rashid failed to recognize any of them, we continued on
our way. On the 1st July, early in the morning's
march, we entered the basin of the Lenda River, and
then, as Rashid expressed himself of the opinion that
we must have passed the path, we took a direct westerly
course, steering straight on through the forest by
compass. At noon of the 2nd we struck the Lenda
BRIDGING THE LEND A RIVER. 473
Eiver which generally flowed, as we observed during isss.
the afternoon march of the 2nd and until noon of the July l -
3rd, N.N.W. Discovering a narrow chasm thirty yards R^ V
wide through which the Lenda rushed furiously, we
conceived it would be to our advantage to throw a
bridge across this river, and trust to fortune showing us
the path to Ugarrowwa's station on the other bank,
rather than continue along the Lenda Eiver on the right
bank, lest we might be forced to wander for days
without finding the means of crossing. Accordingly we
selected three of the tallest trees, 115, 110, and 108
feet respectively, which we managed to launch across the
chasm, and these resting on stout forked uprights, with
railings to steady the laden men, made a commodious
and safe bridge. Early on the morning of the 5th the
bridge was completed, and by ten o'clock every man was
safe across.
The Madi carriers having purposely scattered their
corn provision along the road to lighten their loads,
began now to pay the penalty of their wastefulness.
Though the camp-crier cried out daily the number of
days yet remaining for which the provisions must last,
the ignorant savages were, however, too dense-headed
to profit by the warning ; consequently we had a
dozen feeble wretches already faltering in their gait.
We were already short of seven four of whom had
deserted.
We continued on the left bank our westerly course, and
meantime crossed several native paths inclining S.E. and
N.W., but we found none that can be made available
for our necessity.
On the 6th we stumbled across a clearing garnished
with a small but thriving plantation of plantains. The
famished Madis rushed on this supply like hungry wolves
on their prey, and soon devoured the whole, but three
of them trod on cunningly-hidden sharp-pointed skewers
set in the ground.
Through a pelting rain we travelled on the 7th, and,
wet and miserable, camped in the bosom of untraversed
woods. One hour's march next day brought us to the
474 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. small village of Balia, and five hours later halted for the
Ju] y 7 - night at Bandeya.
iya * This day had been replete with miseries and singular
accidents. A shower of cold rain fell on us after leaving
Balia, and three of the naked Madis fell dead within a
few paces of each other. At the first indications of this
shower I had ordered a halt, and spread out about 150
square feet of tenting, inviting everyone to huddle
under it. The shower over, we rolled up the canvas
and resumed the march, but we were still subject to the
heavy cold dripping of the foliage. The Zanzibaris, more
accustomed to it and in better condition of body, were
not much inconvenienced ; but three Madis, depressed in
mind, depleted in body, fell dead as suddenly as though
shot. A Lado soldier of Emin Pasha's and a Zanzibar!
were skewered in the feet, and so crippled by these
painful wounds that we were obliged to carry them.
Near Bandeya another Madi native succumbed to
illness caused by insufficient food, and a Zanzibari was
shot by a bold and crafty dwarf with an arrow which
penetrated between the ribs, but not to a fatal depth.
Arriving at the village, my cook Hassan, in an unfortunate
moment, while drawing his Winchester rifle towards him,
caused it to explode, tearing a large portion of the
muscles of the left arm ; and near midnight a youth
named Amari, while blowing up to a brighter flame a
watch-fire, was suddenly wounded in the head by a bullet
from a Remington cartridge that some one had carelessly
dropped near the embers.
The next day, guided by some women who said they
knew the way to Ugarrowwa's, there was a most tedious
march through an immense clearing lately abandoned by
the natives. None that I can remember was so full of
vexations. It was a strained position at every stride we
took now treading on a slippery trunk which bridged a
chasm bristling with dangers from a number of dead
branches, their sharp points erected upwards threatening
impalement to the unfortunate man who fell from such
a height on them ; then balancing oneself on a log thrown
across a rushing stream ; anon plunged into a brake
HOUND A CIRCLE. 475
suffocatingly close from the dense masses of myriads of isss.
creepers growing above and around ; soon stumbling ; luly 9<
through a deep green slough, its depth hidden by Ujangwa *
floating vegetable parasites, then over a fearful array of
logs, the relics of the old forest, and every step the
difficulties repeated until near noon we had traversed
with streaming bodies the vast clearing of Ujangwa.
On the confines of the virgin forest we formed camp,
despatched the people to gather plantains and to prepare
them as provisions for the few days yet remaining of the
wilderness.
By solar observations I discovered we were in N.
lat. 1 0' 16".
On the 10th I suspected we were taking a course
which, if continued, would lead us not far from our camp
of the 8th, but the Zanzibaris were so wedded to the
belief that the natives knew their own country best, that
in a fit of spleen I permitted them to rest in that
opinion. About ten o'clock of the llth we came upon
the clearing and a little village we had left on the
morning of the 8th. Thus we had made a complete
circle, and in revenge for this the people demanded that
the women should be slaughtered. Poor things, they
had only acted according to their nature ! It is we who
were in error in supposing that the natives would show
us a way leading them further and further from their
own country. Were the faith continued in them they
would have persisted in guiding us round about their
clearings until they had dropped dead on their native
earth. The women were therefore sent away home,
and with compass in hand we steered a west by north
course to strike the main road. We continued this course
the whole of the llth, and early next day succeeded in
finding the path, which ran north by east.
At nine o'clock of the 13th July we reached our old
camp on the Ituri River, opposite Ugarrowwa's station,
but the place, as we looked across the river, we found to
be abandoned. Therefore no news could be obtained of
our long absent carriers, or of the Major and his people.
We resumed our march, our course being along the
476 IN DAEKEST AFRICA.
1888. Ituri River, every mile, every creek, every crossing-place
14 ' and every camp, well known to us.
The next day, rations all exhausted, Madis perishing
by twos and threes daily, we reached Amiri Falls. No
sooner was camp pitched than there was a rush for
food. It was not to be obtained in the immediate
vicinity, for Ugarrowwa's multitude of 600 people had
preceded us and devoured every edible, and that the
supply had been insufficient for them was evident by
the number of skeletons in his old camp. Distance
would not deter our fellows from the Nyanza ; they
hastened onward, pursuing a track leading southward,
until finally after some hours they reached a hill the
base of which was one continuous thriving plantation of
plantains. At a late hour in the night they brought
the good news to camp, gratified our famished eyes
with a view of the prodigious fruit, which caused us
all to dream ecstatically on fruity banquets of which
the mellow and flavoury plantain was the most con-
spicuous.
Of course a halt at such a critical period within reach
of such abundance was imperative, and at an early hour
the camp was emptied of nearly every able hand,
excepting sentries, to procure food. In the afternoon
the well-furnished foragers returned, often in couples,
with an immense bunch between them, like to the old
engraving of Caleb and Joshua bearing the grapes of
Eshcol. The more provident, however, bore larger
quantities of the fruit, peeled and sliced, ready for
drying, thus avoiding the superfluous stalk and
plantain skin. During the absence of the foragers the
weaker of the messes had erected the wooden grates
and collected the fuel for the drying overnight. The
fruit when thus dry could be converted into cakes, or
palatable plantain porridge, or a morning's draught of
plantain gruel. Many of the finest specimens were
reserved to ripen to make a sweet pudding, or a sweet
brew, or for sauce for the porridge.
On the 16th July we resumed our march along the
river, following our old road as closely as possible, and
A MADI CHIEF PREPARES FOR DEATH. 477
in seven hours reached the Little Rapids above Navabi isss.
Falls. On the next day passed Navabi Falls, and fluly 17>
took a look at the place where we submerged our ^ s bl
canoes, to discover that they had been taken away.
Within four hours we arrived at our old camp at
Avamburi landing-place. The path was now consider-
ably improved, for nearly a thousand pairs of feet had
trodden it since our two score of bill-hooks had first
carved a passage through the bush. Many a skeleton
lay along the road, and our moribund Madis were
destined to add a few more to the number, for day by
day they dropped down never to rise again. Nothing
that we could say would prevail to induce them to
provide provision for the morrow. Ten plantains they
thought an inexhaustible stock, but the evening would
find them hungering for more. The only other means
left to save their lives was to halt as often as possible,
to enable them to eat their fill. Accordingly we halted
two days at Avamburi landing-place, to rest and comfort
the drooping and dying Madis.
On the 20th we marched for seven and a half hours,
and camped a few miles above Bafaido Cataract, losing one
Zanzibari and four Madis en route. One of the latter
was a chief among them, who suffered from a skewer
wound in the foot. As we were starting he stated his
intention to die on the spot, called his countrymen
together, distributed his bracelets, anklets, shiny iron
collars and ear-rings among them, and then lay down
with a placid countenance, wherein not the slightest
emotion was discernible. All this was very admirable,
but it would have been still more admirable to have
bravely struggled, than to have so doggedly died.
Three hours later we discovered a canoe into which we
were enabled to place a few weaklings. Before reaching
camp we had found three canoes, into which we em-
barked nearly all the ailing ones. It would have been
cruel to have halted and sent back people for the Madi
chief; besides there were many chances against our
finding him alive, for as soon as the rearguard left the
camp it was generally visited by hosts of natives, who
478 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. would feel no remorse for ending the feeble life of the
July 21. s ' c k m an lagging behind the column.
Cataract. 1' ne next day was a short march of two hours.
Ugarrowwa had also halted at Bafaido Cataract, and for
several days, judging from the elaborate arrangements
of his large camp, which from a distance appeared like a
large town, occupying the extremity of the river-head
terminated by the cataract. Before arriving at Hippo
Broads we were in possession of four canoes. On the
next day, lunching at the cataract camp, where we buried
our shovels and some articles which our weakening
force could not carry, we examined the cache, and
discovered that the deserters had unearthed the ten
tusks of ivory, and the natives had possessed themselves
of all the remaining articles. Late in the afternoon we
camped at Basopo Cataract. Between the two cataracts
the Zanzibaris discovered several canoes hidden away in
the creeks emptying into the Ituri, and joyfully, but
most recklessly, embarked in them, and notwithstanding
their knowledge of the dangerous channels of the
Basopo Cataract, continued on their course down the
furious stream, which caused us the loss of a Zanzibari
and a boy belonging to the soldiers of Emin Pasha. In
the capsized canoe were also two of the Pasha's soldiers,
both of whom lost their rifles and their kit, and barely
escaped with their lives.
Two Zanzibaris, called Juma and Nassib, wandered
away from the column and were missing this day, and
we were therefore obliged to halt on the 24th to send
out a party to hunt for them. In the afternoon the
party returned unsuccessful, but an hour later we were
startled to hear a bullet hissing over our heads. A
search was made, and the culprit was found to be
Nassib, who, accompanied by his friend Juma, was
returning to camp, and who informed us that he had
seen one of our people in the bush just outside the
camp, and had fired at him, supposing him to be a
prowling native. He still more astonished us when he
related that the cause of his parting from the column
was that he and Juma had seen some fine plantains in a
A TERRIBLE STATE OF BEING. 479
plantation, and had sat down to peel and dry a supply isss.
for the road. This had consumed some eighteen hours Ju!y 24 -
at least, and they say that when they sought the road
they could not find the track of 200 men. It is
difficult to decide which compelled most admiration, the
folly of these two third-rate men sitting calmly down
in the midst of a plantation belonging to ferocious
cannibals, who generally closed the rear of the columns
to avenge themselves on the stragglers, or the alarm
which in this solitary instance possessed the natives.
On the 25th we camped above the Little Rapids of
Bavikai, and on the next day entered the populous
district of Ave-jeli, opposite the mouth of the Nepoko
affluent, taking our quarters in the village where
Dr. Parke so successfully amputated the foot of an
unfortunate Zanzibari thirteen months before.
I was never so sensible of the evils of forest marching
as on this day. My own condition of body was so
reduced, owing to the mean and miserable diet of vege-
tables on which I was forced to subsist, that I was more
than usually sympathetic. At this time there were
about thirty naked Madis in the last stages of life ; their
former ebon black was changed to an ashy grey hue,
and all their bones stood out so fearfully prominent as
to create a feeling of wonder how such skeletons were
animated with the power of locomotion. Almost every
individual among them was the victim of some hideous
disease, and tumours, scorched backs, foetid ulcers, were
common ; while others were afflicted with chronic dysen-
tery and a wretched debility caused by insufficient food.
A mere glance at them, with the mal-odour generated by
ailments, caused me to gasp from a spasm of stomach
sickness. With all this, the ground was rank with
vegetable corruption, the atmosphere heated, stifling,
dark and pregnant with the seeds of decay of myriads
of insects, leaves, plants, twigs and branches. At every
pace my head, neck, arms or clothes was caught by a
tough creeper, calamus thorn, coarse briar, or a giant
thistle-like plant, scratching and rending whatever
portion they hooked on. Insects also of numberless
480 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. species lent their aid to increase my misery, especially
the polished black ant, which affects the trumpet tree.
As we marched under the leaves these ants contrived to
drop on the person, and their bite was more vexatious
than a wasp's or red ant's ; the part bitten soon swelled
largely, and became white and blistery. I need not
name the other species, black, yellow and red, which
crossed the path in armies or clung to almost every plant
and fed on every tree. These offensive sights and
odours we met day after day, and each step taken was
fraught with its own particular evil and annoyance, but
with my present fading strength and drooping spirits,
they had become almost unbearable. My mind suffered
under a constant strain of anxiety respecting the fate of
my twenty choice men which were despatched as couriers
to the rear column under Major Barttelot, as well as of
the rear column itself. I had had no meat of any kind,
of bird or beast, for nearly a month, subsisting entirely
on bananas or plantains, which, however varied in their
treatment by the cook, failed to satisfy the jaded
stomach. My muscles had become thin and flabby, and
were mere cords and sinews, every limb was in a tremor
while travelling, and the vitals seemed to groan in anguish
for a small morsel of meat.
At camp I overheard a conversation carried on
between my tent-boy Sali and another Zanzibari. The
boy was saying that he believed the "Master" would
not last long, how he had observed that his powers were
declining fast. " Please God," said the other, " we shall
find goats or fowls in a few days. It is meat he needs,
and he shall get it if Ugarrowwa has not cleared out the
country."
" Ah," said Sali, " if the Zanzibaris were men instead
of being brutes, they would surely share with the master
what meat they get while foraging. Do they not use
his guns and cartridges, and are they not paid wages for
using them. I can't understand why they should not
share what they obtain with the master's own rifles."
" There are few here so wicked as not to do it if they
get anything worth sharing," replied the other.
AN ARMY OF ATS 481
"But I know better," said Sail. "Some of the isss.
Zanzibaris find a fowl or a goat almost every day, but I July 26 '
do not see any of them bringing anything to the master." Ave " Jelu
At this juncture I called out to Sali, and enjoined him
to tell me all he knew. By dint of questioning, the fact
was elicited that there was some truth in what he
had stated. Two of the Zanzibari chiefs, Murabo, of
Bumbire fame, and Wadi Mabruki, had discovered a
goat and three fowls on the 25.th, and had secretly eaten
them. This was one of the first instances of signal
ingratitude discovered in these two men. From this day
the effect of the disclosure resulted in obtaining a share
in the spoils. Three fowls were delivered to me before
evening, and a few days later I had regained normal
strength. This happy result in my own case proved
what the needs of the poor naked Madis were.
A heavy stock of provisions of dried plantains was
prepared at Ave-jeli, and our increasing flotilla of canoes
enabled us to embark all our Madis, baggage, and half
of the Zanzibari force.
We formed our next day's camp near Avugadu Rapids,
and on the 27th passed the canoes over the rapids, and
halted for the night a few miles below.
We lunched at our old camp, where I remained so
many days while waiting and searching for the lost
Expedition in August, '87, on the 30th July, and took
up our night's quarters at Mabengu village.
At this village we observed about sunset an immense
number of large bats, called " popo " in Swahili, sailing
over our heads to their night roosts across the river. A
thin riband of sky was alone visible above where I stood,
and I counted 680 of the number that flew within view.
As the army of bats must have spread over several
miles of the forest, a rough approximation of the many
thousands that were flying may be made.
On the last day of July we reached Avisibba, famous
for its resistance to our advance column last year, and
for the fatal effects of the poisoned arrows employed in
the conflict. In one of the huts we found the top of one
of our tent-poles, wrapped carefully in leaves, with a
VOL. I. F F
482 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. small piece of cartridge paper, a bit of green velvet from
31 our surgical instrument case, and the brass case of a
>ba ' Kemington cartridge. The curious package was hung up
to one of the rafters, and probably consecrated to some
fetish.
In another hut we discovered a collar of iron rings,
and ten unfired cartridge cases. These last must have
belonged to one of our unfortunate deserters, whose flesh
must have simmered in a pot over a fire and formed a
family repast. An old jacket was also picked up later,
which deepened the probability.
Shortly after landing at the village a little naked girl
about eight years old walked composedly into view and
surprised us all by addressing us in the Zanzibari lan-
guage.
She cried out, "It is true, then ? I heard a gunshot,
and I said to myself while in my hiding-place, these
must be my own people, and I will go and see them,
for the Pagans have no guns."
She gave her name as " Hatuna-mgini " (we have no
other), and related that she and five full-grown women
were abandoned by Ugarrowwa at that place because
they were very sick, and that soon after Ugarrowwa had
departed with his large flotilla of canoes the natives
rushed in and killed the five women, but that she had
run away and hidden herself, where she had remained
ever since, living on raw wild fruit, but in the night
she had succeeded in gathering bananas, which, when
ripe, she could eat uncooked, since no fire was possible.
Ugarrowwa had had a skirmish with the Avisibbas,
in which he had killed a great number. He had stayed
here five days preparing food, and had departed many
days " more than ten days."
A march of four and a half hours to Engwedde', and
another of seven and a half hours, took us to a camp
opposite an island occupied by the Bapaiya fishermen,
a few miles above the Nejambi Kapids. .Rifles, accoutre-
ments, were disembarked, and the canoemen were
ordered to pass their canoes down the left branch.
While the land party was engaged in the portage, tho
TREACHERY AT PANG A FALLS. 483
majority of the canoemen preferred to take the right isss.
branch, in which act of disobedi nee the Zanzibari chief July 31>
and five Madis lost their lives, one canoe was lost, and J
two others capsized, but afterwards recovered. A
Zanzibari named Salim was so bruised and battered
by the flood sweeping him against the rocks that he
was unable to walk for nearly a month afterwards.
About 3 P.M. we resumed our journey, and arrived
about 5 P.M. at Panga Falls. Leaving a detachment
01 them to guard the canoes, we formed camp below
the Falls. The land party succeeded in finding a small
supply of Indian corn, which, converted into meal,
made me a porridge supper.
A downpour of rain, commencing at midnight and
continuing until 1 P.M. of the 5th of August, much
impeded our work, but by night we had our flotilla
of nineteen canoes safe below the Falls, in front of our*
camp.
The natives of Panga had betaken themselves into
an island near the right bank, with all their goats,
fowls, and other property, but they had left several
nets and wires within reach in the various branches
on our side, whence we obtained some fine large fish.
The natives were practically safe, inasmuch as no body
of men with other business in view would incur the
trouble of molesting them. They, however, manifested
most plausibly a desire to make terms of amity with us
by pouring water on their heads and sprinkling their
bodies with it, and some of our men good-naturedly
approached their island and responded reciprocally.
The daring natives pushed across the cataract, and
one of them contrived to draw himself unperceived
near one of our men, and stabbed him in the back.
A halt was ordered the next day, and a band of forty
men proceeded inland to forage, returning towards
night, each with a load of eatables ; but one of their
number, a Madi, received a severe wound in the back
with an arrow. |
Our old camp opposite the confluence of the Ngula
River and the Ituri was reached on the 7th in two and
484 IN DAEKEST AFRICA.
1888. a half hours by the canoes, but the land party occupied
Aug. 8. 3^^ hours in marching the distance, which I estimated
' at eleven miles.
At Mambanga's on the north bank, which we reached
the next day, we found a good supply of food, but a
Zanzibari named Jaliffi was seriously wounded with a
wooden arrow in the chest. A portion an inch and a
half long was imbedded in the wounded part, which
incapacitated him from duty for over two months. On
the point of the arrow being ejected, the wound soon
closed.
At Mugwye's or My-yui the next place, a great
change had occurred. All the villages were obliterated
by fire, and the fine plantain plantations cut down, and
at Mugwye's own village there stood an immense camp.
Believing that Ugarrowwa was present, we fired a signal
shot, but no answer being returned, we proceeded to
our old camp on the left bank, where on one of the
trees Lieutenant Stairs had carved the date " July 31st "
(1887) for the benefit of the Major.
Arriving at our old camp, we were surprised to see
the body of a woman belonging to Ugarrowwa's, freshly
killed and washed, laid out on the bank close to the
river, and near by three bunches of plantains, two
cooking-pots, and a canoe capable of carrying five
people. It was evident to us that a party of natives
hearing the signal shot, had decamped, and had been
obliged to abandon their intended feast.
A party of men was sent across the river to recon-
noitre, and in a short time they came back reporting
that Ugarrowwa must have departed that same morning
down the river. This was very regrettable to me, as 1
burned to ascertain what he had heard of the news from
down river, and I also wished to beg of him not to
ravage the country for the benefit of succeeding caravans,
which would suffer serious loss from the wholesale havoc
and devastation attending his journey.
On the 10th of August I delivered over to the care
of the senior Zanzibar chief, Eashid, thirty-five of the
ablest of our men, with a charge to pursue our old track
THE MEETING WITH OUR COURIERS. 485
along the river as I intended to descend the river with isss.
our canoe flotilla without a halt as far as Wasp Rapids, Aug> 1(
where no doubt we should overtake Ugarrowwa, and
where we should stay together until he should reach us.
At 6.40 A.M. we set out, and, paddling vigorously,
were in the neighbourhood of Wasp Rapids at 11 A.M.
Long before we heard the roar of the rushing river over
the rocky reefs which obstruct its course there, we
descried an immense camp on the right bank, and in a
short time the forms of men in white dresses moving
about the bush. When we had approached within rifle
range we fired some signal shots and hoisted our flag,
which was no sooner seen than the deep boom of
heavily-loaded muskets announced that we were re-
cognized. Soon several large canoes pushed from the
right bank towards us, as we were descending along the
left bank, and hailed us in the Swahili language. After
the usual exchange of compliments we then asked the
news, and to our great joy, not unmixed with grief, we
learned that our couriers, who had now been absent
from us nearly six months, were in Ugarrowwa's camp.
The couriers had left Lieutenant Stairs at Ugarrowwa's
station on the 16th of March, and had reached Wasp
Rapids in seventeen days, or on the 1st of April, where
they had been driven back with a loss of four of their
number. Perceiving that they were unable to pierce
through the hostile crowds, they had travelled back to
Ugarrowwa's station, which they reached on the 26th of
April, and where they placed themselves in Ugarrowwa's
hands. A month later, Ugarrowwa, having collected
his people from the outlying stations, commenced his
descent of the Ituri River, our couriers accompanying
him, reaching Wasp Rapids on the 9th of August,
having been seventy-six days en route. That same
period we had occupied in travelling from the Albert
Nyanza, the 10th of August being the twenty -ninth
day since we had left Ugarrowwa's old station.
After forming our camp on the left bank in the
deserted village of Bandeyah, opposite the camp of
Ugarrowwa's, in the deserted village of Bandekiya, the
486 IN DABKEST AFRICA.
1888. surviving couriers, accompanied by Ugarrowwa and his
Aug. 11. neac [ me n, visited us. Amid a deep silence the head
!ya ' man related his tragic story :
" Master, when you called for volunteers to bear your
letter to the Major, there was not a man of us but
intended to do his very best, knowing that we were all
to receive a high reward and great honour if we succeeded.
We have done our best, and we have failed. We have,
therefore, lost both reward and honour. It is the men
who have gone with you to the Nyanza and found the
Pasha, and can boast of having seen him face to face,
who deserve best at your hands. But if we have not
succeeded in finding the Major and gladdening his heart
with the good news we had to tell, God he knows it has
not been through any fault of our own, but rather
because it is His will that we should not do so. We
have lost four of our number, and I am the only one
who cannot show a wound received during the journey.
We have two, who though alive, seem to be incurable
from the poison in their blood. Some of our men have
as many as five arrow wounds to show you. As far as
Avisibba we came down the river smoothly enough, but
then the sharp work soon commenced. At Engwedde
two were wounded. At Panga Falls three men were
most seriously hurt by arrows. Between Panga Falls
and here was a continued fight day after day, night
after night ; the natives seemed to know long before we
reached them our full strength, and set on us either in
full daylight or in the darkness, as though resolved to
exterminate us. Why they should show so much courage
with us when they had shown themselves so cowardly
when we went up with you, I cannot say, unless our
deserters, coming down river by half-dozens, have enabled
the Pagans to taste the flavour of Zanzibar! blood, and
they having succeeded so well with them, imagined they
could succeed with us. However, when we reached this
village wherein you are now encamped, there were only
eleven of us fit for anything ; all the rest were sore from
their wounds and one was helpless ; and soon after
our coming the fight began in real earnest. Those
A TRAGIC STORY. 487
from that great village opposite us joined with the isss.
natives of Bandeya ; the river seemed to swarm with Aug ' 1L
canoes, and the bush around this village was alive with
natives. After an hour's trial, during which time many
of them must have been killed, for they were so crowded,
especially on the river, we were left in peace. We
availed ourselves in fortifying, as well as we could, the
few huts we had selected for our quarters during the
night.
" When night fell we placed sentries as usual, as you
and Lieut. Stairs and Ugarrowwa, all of you, enjoined
on us ; but, wearied with work and harassed by care,
our sentries must have slept, for the first thing we
knew was that the natives had pulled down our zeriba
and entered into the camp, and a wild cry from a man
who received a fatal thrust with a spear woke us up to
find them amongst us. We each grasped our rifles and
fired at the nearest man, and six of them fell dead at
our feet. This for a moment paralysed them ; but we
heard a chiefs voice say, c These men have run away
from Bula Matari. Not one of them must live.' Then
from the river and the bush they came on in dense
crowds, which the flashes of our rifles' fire lit up, and
their great numbers seemed for a short time to frighten
the best of us. Lakkin, however, who is never so
funny as when in trouble, shouted out, ' These fellows
have come for meat give it them, but let it be of their
own people/ and wounded men and all took their rifles
and took aim as though at a target. How many of
them fell I cannot say ; but when our cartridges were
beginning to run low they ran away, and we were left
to count the dead around us. Two of our men never
answered to their names, a third called Jumah, the son
of Nassib, called out to me, and when I went to him I
found him bleeding to death. He had just strength
enough to charge me to give the journey up. ' Go
back,' said he. ' I give you my last words. Go back.
You cannot reach the Major ; therefore whatever you do,
go back to Ugarrowwa's/ Having said this; he gave
up his last breath, and rolled over, dead.
488 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. " In the morning we buried our own people, and around
Au& n * our zeriba there were nine natives dead, while within
1 eya ' there were six. We beheaded the bodies, and after
collecting their heads in a heap, held council together as
to the best course to follow. There were seventeen of
us alive, but there were now only four of us untouched
by a wound. Jumah's last words rung in our ears like a
warning also, and we decided to return to Ugarrowwa's.
It was easier said than done. I will not weary you
with details we met trouble after trouble. Those who
were wounded before were again wounded with arrows ;
those who were unwounded did not escape not one
excepting myself, who am by God's mercy still whole.
A canoe was capsized and we lost five rifles. Ismailia
was shot dead at Panga Falls. But why need we say
over again what I have already said ? We reached
Ugarrowwa's after an absence of forty-three days. There
were only sixteen of us alive, and fifteen of us were
wounded. Let the scars of those wounds tell the rest
of the story. We are all in God's hands and in yours.
Do with us as you see fit. I have ended my words."
Among those who heard this dreadful story of trials
for the first time there was scarcely a dry eye. Down
many faces the tears ran copiously, and deep sighs and
ejaculations of pity gushed from the sympathetic hearts.
When the speaker had finished, before my verdict was
given, there was a rush towards him, and hands
stretched out to grasp his own, while they cried out
with weeping eyes, " Thank God ! thank God ! You
have done bravely ; yes, you have shown real worth, and
the mettle of men."
It was thus we welcomed our long-lost couriers,
whose fate had been ever in our minds since our
departure from Fort Bodo. They had been singularly
unsuccessful in the object of their mission, but somehow
they could not have been more honoured by us had
they returned with letters from the Major. The story
of their efforts and their sufferings was well told, and
was rendered more effective and thrilling by the sight
of the many wounds each member of the gallant band
VGA EE WWA. 489
had received. Through the kindness of Ugarrowwa,
whose sympathies had been won by the same sad but ^ ug ; u *
i " i -iii 111 -ii Bandeya.
brave story, their wounds had soon healed, with the
exception of two, who though noty only greatly scarred
were constantly ailing and weak. I may state here
that one finally recovered in the course of two months
his usual strength, the other in the same time faded
away and died.
In Ugarrowwa's camp were also discovered three
famous deserters, and two of our convalescents who
were absent foraging during Lieut. Stairs' visit. One
of these deserters had marched away with a box of
ammunition, another had stolen a box containing some
of Emin Pasha's boots and a few pairs of my own.
They had ventured into a small canoe which naturally
was capsized, and they had experienced some remark-
able hair-breadth escapes before they arrived at Ugar-
rowwa's. They had been delivered as prisoners to
Lieut. Stairs, but a few days later, they again escaped
to Ugarrowwa's, who was again induced to deliver them
up to me. These two afterwards behaved exceedingly
well, but the third, while a victim to small-pox, some few
weeks later, escaped from the care of his friends and
leaped into the Nejambi Kapids, where he was drowned.
Ugarrowwa, being out of powder, was more than
usually kind. A notable present of four goats, four
sacks of rice, and three large canoes was made to me.
The goats and rice, as may be imagined, were very
welcome to us, nor were the canoes a despicable gift, as
I could now treble the rate of our descent down the
river ; for in addition to our own canoes the entire Ex-
pedition of 130 fighting men, boys, followers, and Madi,
carriers, besides the baggage could be embarked.
No news had been obtained of our Rear Column by
either the couriers or Ugarrowwa. The letter to the
Major, which I had delivered to Ugarrowwa for despatch
by his couriers last September, was now returned to
me with the letters from my own couriers. He had
sent forty-five men down the river, but at Manginni,
about half-way between Wasp Rapids and My-yui, they
490 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1*88. had been obliged to return. Thus both efforts to com-
Aug. 11. m unicate with Major Barttelot had been unsuccessful,
!ya ' and could not but deepen the impression that something
exceedingly awry had occurred with the Rear Column.
Among the letters delivered to me by Ugarrowwa was
one open. It is descriptive and amusing, and char-
acteristic of our Doctor :
" Fort Bodo,
MY DEAR OLD BARTTELOT, " 16th February, 1888.
" I hope you are ' going strong/ and Jameson ' pulling double.'
None of us here have any idea where you are. Some of us officers
and men say you are on the way up river, others say you are still at
Yambuya, unable to move with a large number of loads, and amongst
the men there is an idea that your Zanzibaris may have gone over to
Tippu Tib. Stanley reached the Lake 14th December, 1887, but could
not communicate with Emin Pasha. As he had not got his boat, he
then came back from the Lake into the bush, and made this fort to store
his baggage, while he again goes on to the Lake with Jephson and boat.
Stairs goes to Ugarrowwa's to-morrow with twenty men, who are to go
on to you and who bring this letter. Stairs returns here with about
forty or fifty men who were left at Ugarrowwa's, and then goes on after
Stanley, as the place is only 80 or 100 miles from the Lake. I am to stay
at this fort with forty or fifty men. Nelson, who has been ailing for
months, therefore also remains here. We had an awful time coming
here. I often said I was starved at school, but it was stuffing compared
with what we have gone through. I am glad to say all the white men
are very fit, but the mortality amongst the men was enormous, something
like 50 per cent. Up to Ugarrowwa's there is plenty of food, but little
or none along the river this side of Ugarrowwa's. Stanley, I know, is
writing you all about the starvation and the road. To-day, Stanley fell
in all the men, and asked them all if they wanted to go to the Lake or go
back for you. Most of the men at first wanted to go back, but after-
wards the majority were for the Lake ; both Stairs, Jephson, and myself
were for the Lake, so as to decide if Emin Pasha was alive or not, so as
not to bring your column up all this way and then go back to Muta
Nzige. All the men are as fat as butter, some of them, however, who
stayed with me at an Arab camp for three months, where I was left to
look after Nelson, and sick men, and boxes, etc., are reduced to skin and
bone. Out of thirty-eight, eleven died of starvation. Stairs was the only
officer wounded, but many of the men died from their wounds.
" We are all in a bad way for boots ; none of us have a good pair. I
have made two pairs, but they did not last long, and all my clothes have
been stolen by ' Kehani,' a Zanzibari. Stanley has had me working
hard all day, and I have only time to write these few lines as the sun
is going down. Our party have lost and sold a great quantity of
ammunition.
" Give my best wishes to old Jameson, also the other fellows whom I
know ; and hoping to see you up here before long,
" Believe me, yonrs very sincerely,
"J. H. P.
" We are all awfully sick of this ' bush ' ; it continues to within a few
miles of the Lake."
WHOLESALE DEVASTATION. 491
The next day was a halt. The senior Chief Rashid isss.
and his land party did not arrive before 2 P.M. of the Aug - 12 -
llth. The current had carried our flotilla in five hours, Batundu *
a journey which occupied him fifteen hours' march. But
on the 12th of August, having safely passed the canoes
below the rapids, we embarked at noon and proceeded
down river. Opposite Elephant-playground camp we
met one of Ugarrowwa's scouting canoes ascending, the
men of which related wonderful stories of the strength,
fierceness, and boldness of the Batundu natives. Two
hours later the Batundu drums announced our advent
on the river ; but when their canoes advanced to reckon
the number of our vessels, they quietly retired, and we
occupied their chief village in peace, and slept undis-
turbed during the night.
At S. Mupe we arrived on the 13th, and halted one
day to prepare food for our further journey down river,
but on the next day, the 15th, we passed the flotilla
safely down the various rapids, and camped below the
lowest Mariri Rapids.
Resuming the journey on the 16th, we floated and
paddled past three of our land march camps, and on a
large island possessing huts sufficient to accommodate
2,000 people we halted for the night. Both banks of
the river were unpeopled and abandoned, but no one
could impart any reason for this wholesale devastation.
Our first thought was that our visit had perhaps caused
their abandonment, but as the natives had occupied
their respective villages in view of the rear guard, we
concluded that probably some internecine war was the
cause.
This day was the eighty-third since we had departed
from the shores of the Albert Nyanza, and the sixtieth
since we had left Fort Bodo. Our progress had been
singularly successful. Of the naked Madi carriers we
had lost a great many, nearly half of the number that
we had departed from the Nyanza with ; but of the
hardened and acclimatised Zanzibaris we had lost but
three, two of whom were by drowning, and one was
missing through a fit of spleen. Five hundred and
492 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. sixty miles of the journey had been accomplished,
16. there were only ninety miles remaining between Bun-
an " gangeta Island and Yambuya, yet not a rumour of any
kind had been heard respecting the fate of our friends
and followers of the rear column. This constant and un-
satisfied longing, pressing on my mind with a weight as
of lead, with the miserable unnourishing diet of dry plan-
tains, was fast reducing me into an aged and decrepit state
of mind and body. That old buoyant confident feeling
which had upheld me so long had nearly deserted me
quite. I sat near sunset by the waterside alone, watching
the sun subside lower and lower before the horizon of black
foliage that bounded Makubana, the limits of my view.
I watched the ashen grey clouds preceding the dark calm
of night, and I thought it represented but too faithfully
the melancholy which I could not shake off. This day
was nearly twelve months from the date the rear column
should have set out from Yambuya 365 days. Within
this period 100 carriers only might have been able to
have advanced as far as Bungangeta, even if they had to
make seven round trips backwards and forwards ? What
could possibly have happened except wholesale desertion
caused by some misunderstanding between the officers
and men ? In the darkness I turned into my tent, but
in my nervous and highly-strung state could find no
comfort there ; and at last I yielded and implored the all-
seeing and gracious Providence to restore to me my
followers and companions, and allay the heartache that
was killing me.
At the usual hour on the 17th, "we embarked in our
canoes and resumed our journey down the river, paddling
languidly as we floated. It was a sombre morning ; a
heavy greyness of sky painted the eternal forest tops of
a sombrous mourning colour. As we glided past
Bungangeta district we observed that the desolation had
not been confined to it, but that Makubana also had
shared the same fate ; and soon after coming in view of
the mighty curve of Banalya, which south or left bank
had been so populous, we observed that the district of
the Banalya had also been included. But about half-
THE MAJOR, BOYS
493
past nine we saw one village, a great way down through
the light mist of the morning, still standing, which
we supposed was the limit of the devastation. But as
we drew near we discovered fhat it had a stockade. In
July 1887, when we passed up, Banalya was deemed too
powerful to need a stockade. Presently white dresses
were seen, and quickly taking up my field glass, I
discovered a red flag hoisted. A suspicion of the truth
crept into my mind. A light puff of wind unrolled the
1888.
Aug. 17.
Banalya.
VIEW OK BANALYA CURVE.
flag for an instant, and the white crescent and star was
revealed. I sprang to my feet and cried out, " The
Major, boys ! Pull away bravely." A vociferous shout-
ing and hurrahing followed, and every canoe shot forward
at racing speed.
About 200 yards from the village we stopped paddling,
and as I saw a great number of strangers on the shore,
"We are Stanleys
men," was the answer delivered in mainland Swahili.
I asked, " Whose men are you ?
494 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. But assured by this, and still more so as we recognised
a European near the gate, we paddled ashore. The
European on a nearer view turned out to be Mr. William
Bonny, who had been engaged as doctor's assistant to
the Expedition.
Pressing his hand, I said,
" Well, Bonny, how are you ? Where is the Major ?
Sick, I suppose ? "
"The Major is dead, sir."
" Dead ? Good God ! How dead ? Fever ? "
" No, sir, he was shot."
" By whom ? "
" By the Manyuema Tippu-Tib's people."
" Good heavens ! Well, where is Jameson ? "
" At Stanley Falls."
" What is he doing there, in the name of goodness ? "
"He went to obtain more carriers."
" Well then, where is Mr. Ward, or Mr. Troup ? "
" Mr. Ward is at Bangala."
" Bangala ! Bangala ! what can he be doing there ? "
" Yes, sir, he is at Bangala, and Mr. Troup has been
invalided home some months ago."
These queries, rapidly put and answered as we stood
by the gate at the water side, prepared me to hear as
deplorable a story as could be rendered of one of the
most remarkable series of derangements that an organized
body of men could possibly be plunged into.
Despite Mr. Bonny 's well written report of 'the events
which had occurred, it was many days before I could
find time to study and understand the details. The
strangers I had observed belonged to Tippu-Tib, and
they now pressed congratulations upon our arrival, and
our people hurrying in through the narrow gate with
the baggage from the canoes, bawling out recognition
of their friends, leaping with joy, or howling with grief,
made Banalya Camp indescribably tumultuous.
Let us imagine the baggage stored orderly, the
canoes lashed to stakes firmly driven in the bank, the
congratulations of the strangers over, the Zanzibaris of
the advance column departed from our immediate
AT LAST ! THANK GOD ! 497
vicinity to seek their long-lost friends and to hear the isss.
news, the Soudanese and Zanzibari survivors of the Aug ' 17 '
rear column having uttered their fervid thanks that we ]
had at last at last, thank God come, and such letters
as had arrived hastily read, despatches hastily written,
sent by couriers to Stanley Falls, one for Tippu-Tib
himself, and one for the Committee of the Relief Fund,
and we shall be at liberty to proceed with the story of
the rear column, as gathered from Mr. Bonny 's reports
oral and written, and from the surviving Soudanese
soldiers and Zanzibaris, and we shall then see how the
facts differed or agreed with our anticipations.
VOL. i. a a
498 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
CHAPTER XX.
THE SAD STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.
Tippu-Tib Major E. M. Barttelot Mr. J. S. Jameson Mr. Herbert
Ward Messrs. Troup and Bonny Major Barttelot's Report on the
doings of the rear column Conversation with Mr. Bonny Major
Barttelot's letter to Mr. Bonny Facts gleaned from the written
narrative of Mr. Win. Bonny Mr. Ward detained at Bangala
Repeated visits of the Major to Stanley Falls Murder of Major
Barttelot Bonny's account of the murder The assassin Sanga is
punished Jameson dies of fever at Bangala Station Meeting of
the advance and rear columns Dreadful state of the camp Tippu-
Tib and Major Barttelot Mr. Jameson Mr. Herbert Ward's report.
1888. THE principal characters of the following narrative
Au s- are :
First. Tippu-Tib, alias Sheikh Hamed bin Mohammed,
a man who is a native of the East Coast of Africa, of Arab
descent. He has thousands of men under his command.
He is a renowned slave trader, with a passion for extend-
ing his conquests and traffic in ivory and slaves, who,
while meditating war against an infant State lately
created in Africa, is persuaded to agree to a peace pact,
to confine his destructive raids within certain limits, and,
finally, to lend the services of 600 carriers to our Expe-
dition, which is destined for the rescue of a worthy
Governor beleaguered by many enemies at the north end
of the Albert Nyanza.
While exhibiting the utmost goodwill, ungrudging
hospitality, and exercising numerous small kindnesses to
the officers of the Expedition, he contrives to delay per-
forming the terms of his solemn contract, and months
are wasted before he moves to take the necessary steps
for accomplishing his duties. Finally, as the officers
provoke him by constant and persistent entreaties, he
THE SAD STORY OF THE REAR COLUMN.
499
makes a journey of over 700 miles, collects the carriers,
and after eleven months' systematic delay, surrenders
them to his white friends. But a few weeks later a
catastrophe occurs : one of the head-men of these
carriers, named Sanga, points his musket at the princi-
pal European officer in charge, and shoots him dead.
Ib88.
Aug.
Banal y a.
MAJOR BARTTELOT
Second, is Major Edmund Musgrave Barttelot, a
generous, frank, and chivalrous young English officer,
distinguished in Afghanistan and on the Soudanese Nile
for pluck and performance of duty. His rank and past
experience in the command of men entitle him to the
appointment of commander of the rear column. He is
500 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. instructed to remain at Yambuya until the arrival of a
Aug - certain contingent of carriers from Bolobo, in the charge
Qaja ' of three subordinate officers, Messrs. Ward, Trcup, ,nd
Bonny. If Tippu-Tib has arrived previou to or by
that date, he is to lose no time in following the tra< k of
the advance column, which has preceded him by about
seven weeks. If Tippu-Tib has not arrived by the time
the Bolobo contingent has reached Yambuya, he is to
make a forward move by slow stages with his own force
of about 210 carriers, making repeated trips backwards
and forwards until all the essentials are removed from
camp to camp ; he is allowed discretion what to dispense
with in order to be enabled to march ; the articles are
mentioned which may be thrown away. He declares the
instructions to be clear and intelligible. He vows that
he will not wait longer at Yambuya than the arrival of
the Bolobo people, and satisfies us all that in him w r e
have a man of energy, resolution, and action, and that
there is no need of anxiety respecting the conduct of
the rear column. In every letter and report he
appears animated by the utmost loyalty and willing
spirit.
Third, is a young civilian named James Sligo Jameson,
a gentleman of wealth, with a passion for natural history
studies, who, professing a fraternal attachment for his
friend the Major, is appointed second in command of the
rear column. It is reported of him, that " his alacrity,
capacity, and willingness to work are unbounded "; what-
soever his friend the Major proposes receives the ready
sanction of Mr. Jameson ; and he has a claim to having
much experience and judgment for former adventurous
travels in Mashona Land and Matabele. Barely four
weeks after the assassination of his friend he dies, utterly
worn out by fever and trouble.
Three young Englishmen come last, who are attached
to the Major's staff, two of whom, Mr. Herbert Ward and
Mr. Troup, are to be associated with the commander and
his second in the discussion of every vital step, and no
important decision can be taken unless a council of the
four has been convened to consider it as to its bearing
HERBERT WARD AND JOHN ROSE TROUP.
501
Aug.
upon the enterprise for which they have assembled on
the verge of the unknown region of woods. They are
therefore implicated in the consequences of any resolu-
tion and every sequent act. They are not boys new
from school, and fresh from the parental care. They are
mature and travelled men. Mr. Herbert Ward has seen
MB. JAMESON.
service in Borneo, New Zealand, and Congo land ; is bright,
intelligent and capable. Mr. John Rose Troup has also
served under my command in the Congo State, and has
been mentioned in my record of the founding of that
State as an industrious and zealous officer. Mr. William
Bonny has seen service in the Zulu and Nile campaigns,
502 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. has lived years in South America, and appears to be
Augi a staid and observing man.
Now here is the inexplicable mystery. We have
parted from them while warmly and even affectionately
attached to each other. We have plighted our words
one to the other. " Fear not," say they ; "we shall be
doing and striving, cheerfully and loyally." We believe
them, and hand in hand we pledge ourselves.
We return from our quest of Emin Pasha, and ac-
cording to Major Barttelot's own Eeport (see Appendix)
we learn the following striking facts :
1st. " Eumour is always rife, and is seldom correct,
concerning Mr. Stanley. He is not dead to the best of
my belief. I have been obliged to open Mr. Stanley's
boxes, as I cannot carry all his stuff."
He sends to Bangala all my clothing, maps, and
charts, reserved medicines for the Expedition, photo
chemicals and reserve negatives, extra springs for Win-
chesters, Kemingtons, essentials for tents, and my entire
canteen. He reduces me to absolute nakedness. I am
so poor as to be compelled to beg a pair of pants
from Mr. Bonny, cut another pair from an old white
blanket in the possession of a deserter, and another from
a curtain in my tent. But Messrs. Jameson, Troup, and
Bonny are present, concurring and assisting, and the
two last-named receive salaries, and both present their
accounts and are paid, not a penny deducted, and a
liberal largesse besides in first-class passages home is
granted to them.
2nd. " There are four other Soudanese and twenty-
nine Zanzibaris who are unable to proceed with us."
" Two cases of Madeira were also sent him (Mr.
Stanley). One case I am sending back " that is, down
the Congo. He also collects a choice assortment of jams,
sardines, herrings, wheaten flour, sago, tapioca, arrow-
root, &c., and ships them on board the steamer which
takes Mr. Troup homeward. And there are thirty-three
dying men in camp. We may presume that the other
gentlemen concurred in this deed also.
3rd. " I shall go on to Wadelai, and ascertain from
Q UO TA TIONS FROM MAJOR BAR TTEL OTS DESPA TCH. 503
Emin Pasha, if he be there still, if he has any news isss.
of Mr. Stanley ; also of his own intentions as regards Aug '
staying or leaving. I need not tell you that all Baoalya *
our endeavours will be most strenuous to make the
quest in which we are going a success. It may be he
only needs ammunition to get away by himself, in
which case I would in all probability be able to supply
him."
On the 14th of August Mr. John Rose Troup has
delivered over to Major Barttelot 129 cases Remington
rifle cartridges, in addition to the twenty-nine left by me
at Yambuya. These 158 cases contain 80,000 rounds.
By June 9th (see Barttelot's Report) this supply has
dwindled down to 35,580 rounds. There has been no
marching, no fighting. They have decreased during a
camp life of eleven months in the most unaccountable
manner. There are left with the rear column only suffi-
cient to give fifty rounds to each rifle in the possession
of Emin Pasha's troops. Half of the gunpowder,
and more than two-thirds of the bales of cloth,
have disappeared. Though Yambuya originally con-
tained a store of 300,000 percussion-caps, it has
been found necessary to purchase 48 worth from
Tippu-Tib.
4th. " The loads we do not take are to be sent to
Bangala. They will be loaded (on the steamers) on
June 8th (1888), a receipt being given for them by
Mr. Van Kerkhoven, which is forwarded to you ;
also a letter of instructions to him and to Mr. Ward.
Perhaps you would kindly give the requisite order
concerning the loads and two canoes purchased for
Mr. Ward's transport, as it is nearly certain I shall not
return that way, and shall have, therefore, no further
need of them or him" (See Appsndix Barttelot's
Report).
Mr. Ward has been despatched down river to telegraph
to the Committee for instructions ; he was supposed to
bring those instructions back from the sea with him.
Here we are told the Major has no further need of him.
He has also written to Captain Van Kerkhoven, of Ban--
504 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. gala, not to allow him to ascend above Bangala. In the
Aug * last paragraph of Mr. Jameson's letter to Mr. Bonny I
Banalva. ? r i i J
note a reference to this change.
5th. The rear column consisted of 271 souls rank
and file when we parted from Yambuya, June 28th,
1887.
In October, 1887, this force, according to a letter from
the Major, had decreased to 246 men.
On June 4th, 1888, while the rear column lies still in
the same camp (see the Major's Eeport) it has diminished
to 135 men rank and file.
On August 17th, 1888, I demand from Mr. William
Bonny, who is in sole charge at that date, an official
report as to the number of men left of the rear column,
and he presents me with the following :
" List of Zanzibaris left by Mr. Stanley at Bolobo and
Yambuya, inclusive of eleven men, deserters, picked up
from advance column :
78 dead.
26 deserted.
10 with Mr. Jameson (Bangala).
29 left sick at Yambuya.
5 left sick on road.
75 present at Banalya, August 17th, 1888.
223
Return of Soudanese and Somalis and Syrians left at
Yambuya :
21 died.
1 killed by natives.
1 executed by order of Major Barttelot.
3 sent down Congo to Egypt.
4 left sick at Yambuya.
1 sick handed over to care of Congo State.
22 present at Banalya, August 17th, 1888.
53
223
276
Return of British officers left by Mr. Stanley at
Bolobo and Yambuya :
TERRIBLE MORTABITY. 505
1 John Eose Troup, invalided home. 1888
1 Herbert Ward, sent down river by Major Barttelot. A uT
1 James S. Jameson, proceeded down Congo.
1 Edmund M. Barttelot, Major (murdered).
1 William Bonny, present at Banal ya, August 17th, 1888.
5
276
~281
11 deserters Irom advance column.
270
1 error.
271
Dead and lost.
78 Zanzibaris dead.
29 left sick at Yambuya.
4 left sick at Yambuya.
5 left sick on road.
21 Soudanese dead.
1 killed by natives.
1 executed.
139
6th. The steamer Stanley arrived at Yambuya on the
14th of August, within a few days of the date mentioned
in the Letter of Instructions. On the 17th she departs
to her port at Leopoldville, and has severed all connec-
tion with the Expedition. The officers of the Congo
State have behaved loyally according to their Sovereign's
promise. It only remains now for the rear column to
pack up and depart slowly but steadily along our track,
because Tippu-Tib has not arrived, and according to the
issue anticipated will not come.
I turn to Mr. Bonny, and ask, " Were you not all
anxious to be at work ? "
" Yes, sir."
" Were you not burning to be off from Yambuya ? "
" Yes, sir."
" Were you all equally desirous to be on the road ? "
" I believe so. Yes, sir."
" Well, Mr. Bonny, tell me if it be true that you
were all burning, eager, and anxious to be off why you
506 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
isss. did not devise some plan better than travelling back-
Au - wards and forwards between Yambuya and Stanley
^ Falls?"
" I am sure I don't know, sir. I was not the chief,
and if you will observe, in the Letter of Instructions you
did not even mention my name."
" That is very true ; I ask your pardon ; but you
surely did not remain silent because 1 omitted to men-
tion your name, did you you a salaried official of the
Expedition ? "
" No, sir. I did speak often."
" Did the others ? "
" I don't know, sir."
I have never obtained further light from Mr. Bonny,
though at every leisure hour it was a constant theme.
A year after this we were at Usambiro, south of the
Victoria Nyanza, and I received a clipping of a news-
paper wherein there was a copy of Major Barttelot's
letter of October, 1887. There was a portion which
said, " We shall be obliged to stay here until November."
I know that they thought they were obliged to remain
until June 11, 1888. I turn to Major Barttelot's letter
of June 4th, 1888 (see Appendix), wherein he says, "I
feel it my bounden duty to proceed on this business, in
which I am fully upheld by both Mr. Jameson and
Mr. Bonny ; to wait longer would be both useless and
culpable, as Tippu-Tib has not the remotest intention
of helping us any more, and to withdraw would be
pusillanimous, and, I am certain, entirely contrary to
your wishes and those of the Committee."'
I turned to my Letter of Instructions, and I find in
Paragraph 10 :
" It may happen that though Tippu-Tib has sent
some men, he has not sent enough to carry the goods
with your own force. In that case you will of course
use your discretion as to what goods you can dispense
with, to enable you to march."
Paragraph 11. " If you still cannot march, then it
would be better to make marches of six miles twice over,
if you prefer marching to staying for our arrival, than
MAJOR BARTTELOTS SUCCESSOR. 507
throw too many things away." (See Letter of Instruc-
tions in a preceding chapter.)
At Usambiro also I received the answer which the
Committee sent in reply to Mr. Ward's cablegram from
St. Paul de Loanda, asking them to " wire advice and
opinion."
To Major Barttelot, Care Ward, Congo.
" Committee refer you to Stanley s orders of the ^Atli June. If you still
cannot march in accordance with these orders, then stay where you are, await-
ing his arrival, or until you receive fresh instructions from Stanley."
A committee 6000 miles away penetrate into the
spirit of the instructions instantly, but a committee of
five officers at Yambuya do not appear to understand
them, though they have been drawn up on the clear
understanding that each officer would prefer active
movement and occupation to an inactive life and idle
waiting at Yambuya.
7th. Mr. William Bonny, whose capacity to under-
take serious responsibilities is unknown to me, is not
mentioned in the Letter of Instructions.
On my return to Banalya, Mr. Bonny hands me the
following order written by Major Barttelot.
" Yambuya Camp,
" April 22rf, 1888.
" Sir, In event of my death, detention of Arabs, absence from any
cause from Yambuya camp, you will assume charge of the Soudanese com-
pany, the Zanzibar company, and take charge of the stores, sleeping in
the house where they are placed. All orders to Zanzibaris, Somalis, and
Soudanese will be issued by you and to them only. All issues of cloth,
matako (brass rods), etc., will be at your discretion, but expenditure of
all kinds must as much as possible be kept under. Belief to Mr. Stanley,
care of the loads and men, good understanding between yourself and the
Arabs must be your earnest care; anything or anybody attempting to
interfere between you and these matters must be instantly removed.
u I have the honour to be, Sir, &c.,
" EDMUND M. BARTTELOT,
" Major."
What remains for the faithful Jameson, " whose
alacrity, capacity, and willingness to work are un-
bounded," to do ? Where is the promising, intelligent,
and capable Ward ? What position remains for the
methodical, business-like, and zealous Mr. John Kose
Troup ? Mr. Bonny has been suddenly elevated to the
-508 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
command of the rear column in the event of any un-
happy accident to Major Barttelot.
My first fear was that I had become insane. When
I alone of all men attempt to reconcile these inexplic-
able contrarinesses with what I know animated each and
every officer of the rear column, I find that all the wise
editors of London differ from me. In the wonderful
log-book entries I read noble zeal, indefatigable labour,
marches and counter-marches, and a limitless patience.
In the Major's official report, in Mr. Jameson's last sad
letter (see Appendix), I discern a singleness of purpose,
inflexible resolve and the true fibre of loyalty, tireless
energy, and faith, and a devotion which disdains all cal-
culation of cost. When I came to compare these things
one with another, my conclusion was that the officers
at Yambuya had manifestly been indifferent to the
letter of instructions, and had forgotten their promises.
When Mr. Bonny told me that one of them had risen at
a mess meeting to propose that my instructions should
be cancelled, and that the ideas of Major Barttelot
should be carried out in future it did appear to me
that the most charitable construction that could be
placed upon such conduct was that they were indifferent
to any suggestions which had been drawn out purposely
to satisfy their own oft-repeated desire of " moving on."
But how I wish that I had been there for just one
hour only on that August 17th, 1887, when the five
officers were assembled adrift and away, finally from
all touch with civilization to discuss what they should
do, to tell them that
" Joy's soul lies in the doing,
And the rapture of pursuing
Is the prize."
To remind them that
" The path of duty is the way to glory."
What ! count your hundreds of loads ! What are
they ? Look, it is simply this : 200 carriers are here
to-day. There are 500 loads. Hence to the next vil-
lage is ten miles. In six days your 200 men have
THE PATH OF DUTY. 509
carried the 500 loads ten miles. In four months you isss.
are inland about 150 miles. In eight months you are Aug-
300 miles nearer to the Nyanza, and long before that Banalya *
time you have lightened your labours by conveying
most of your burdens in canoes ; you will have heard
all about that advance column as early as October, the
second month of work ; for powder and guns, you may
get Ugarrowwa's flotilla to help you, and by the time
the advance column starts from Fort Bodo to hunt
you up, you will be safe in Ugarrowwa's settlement, and
long before that you will have met the couriers with
charts of the route with exact information of what
lies before you, where food is to be obtained, and every
one of you will be healthier and happier, and you will
have the satisfaction of having performed even a greater
task than the advance column, and obtained the
" kudos " which you desired. The bigger the work the
greater the joy in doing it. That whole-hearted striv-
ing and wrestling with Difficulty ; the laying hold with
firm grip and level head and calm resolution of the
monster, and tugging, and toiling, and wrestling at it, to-
day, to-morrow, and the next until it is done ; it is the
soldier's creed of forward, ever forward it is the man's
faith that for this task was he born. Don't think of
the morrow's task, but what you have to do to-day,
and go at it. When it is over, rest tranquilly, and
sleep well.
But I was unable to be present ; I could only rely on
their promise that they would limit their faith in Tippu-
Tib until the concentration of all officers and men
attached to the rear column, and insist that the blazing
on the trees, the broad arrow-heads pointing the way,
should be well made for their clear guidance through
the almost endless woods, from one side of the forest
to its farthest edge. Yet curiously hungering to know
why Barttelot, who was " spoiling for work," and Jame-
son, who was so earnest, and had paid a thousand
pounds for the privilege of being with us, and Ward,
who I thought was to be the future Olive of Africa, and
Troup, so noted for his industry, and Bonny, so steady
510 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. and so obedient, so unconsciously acted as to utterly
prevent them from doing what I believe from my eoul
they wished to do as much as I or any other of us did,
a conviction flashes upon my mind that there has been
a supernatural malignant influence or agency at work
to thwart every honest intention.
A few instances will tend to strengthen this con-
viction. I freely and heartily admit that the five
officers burned to leave Yambuya, and to assist in pro-
secuting unto successful issue the unique enterprise
they had sacrificed so much comfort to join. But they
are utterly unable to move, try how they may. They
believe I am alive, and they vow to make a strenuous
quest for me, but they reduce me to nakedness. They
are determined to start in quest and relief of Emin
Pasha, because " to withdraw would be pusillanimous,
and to stay longer would be culpable," and yet they
part with the necessary ammunition that they wish to
carry to him. They confess that there are thirty-three
sick men unable to move at Yambuya, and yet the very
stores, medicaments, and wine that might have saved
them they box up and send to Bangala, after first
obtaining a receipt for them. They have all signed
agreements wherein each officer shall have a fair share
of all European preserved provisions, perfect delicacies,
and yet they decline to eat them, or allow the sick men
to eat them, but despatch them out of the hungry
woods to the station of Bangala. Mr. Bonny, as I
understand, expressed no regret or audible dissent at
their departure. From pure habit of discipline he
refrained from demanding his fair share, and like a good
Englishman, but mighty poor democrat, he parted with
his inalienable right without a murmur. They searched
for Manyuema slaves, cannibals of the Bakusu and Bason-
gora tribes to replace their dead Zanzibaris and Sou-
danese, Somalis and Syrians, and it came to pass a few
weeks after they had obtained these cannibals that one
of their head men assassinates the English commander.
Also on a fatal date, fatal because that resolution to
wait sealed their fate, an officer of the advance column
A SUPERNATURAL INFLUENCE. oil
was straying through an impenetrable bush with 300 isss.
despairing men behind him, and on this fatal date the Aug -
next year, Mr. Bonny, the sole survivor of the English ]
band, pours into my ears a terrible tale of death and
disaster, while at the same hour poor Jameson breathes
his last, tired and worn out with his futile struggles to
" move on " at Bangala, 500 miles west of me ; and
600 miles east of me, the next day, Emin Pasha and
Mr. Jephson walk into the arms of the rebel soldiery
of Equatoria.
This is all very uncanny if you think of it. There is
a supernatural diablerie operating which surpasses the
conception and attainment of a mortal man.
In addition to all these mischiefs a vast crop of lying
is germinated in these darksome shades in the vicinity
of Stanley Falls, or along the course of the Upper
Congo, showing a measureless cunning, and an in-
satiable love of horror. My own murder appears to be
a favourite theme, quantities of human bones are said to
be discovered by some reconnoitring party, human
limbs are said to be found in cooking-pots, sketches by
an amateur artist are reported to have been made of
whole families indulging in cannibal repasts ; it is more
than hinted that Englishmen are implicated in raids,
murder, and cannibalism, that they have been making
targets of native fugitives while swimming in the
Aruwimi, all for the mere sake of infusing terror, alarm,
and grief among quiet English people, and to plague
our friends at home.
The instruments this dark power elects for the dis-
semination of these calumnious fables are as various in
their professions as in their nationality. It is a deserter
one day, and the next it is an engineer of a steamer ; it
is now a slave-trader, or a slave ; it is a guileless mis-
sionary in search of work, or a dismissed Syrian ; it is a
young artist with morbid tastes, or it is an officer of
the Congo Free State. Each in his turn becomes pos-
sessed with an insane desire to say or write something
which overwhelms common sense, and exceeds ordinary
belief.
512 W DARKEST AFRICA.
From the official written narrative of Mr. William
Bonny I glean the following, and array the facts in
clear order.
The Stanley steamer has departed from Yambuya
early in the morning of August 17th, 1887. The goods
she has brought up are stored within the magazine,
and as near as I can gather there are 266 men within
the entrenched camp. As they are said to have met
to deliberate upon their future steps we may assume
that the letter of instructions was read, and that they
did not understand them. They think the wisest plan
would be to await Tippu-Tib, who, it will be remembered,
had promised to Major Barttelot that he would be
after him within nine days.
On this day the officers heard firing across the river
almost opposite to Yambuya. Through their binoculars
they see the aborigines chased into the river by men
dressed in white clothes, who are shooting at them from
the north or right bank. Conceiving that the
marauders must be some of Tippu-Tib's men, they
resolve upon electing an officer and a few men to
interview them, and to cease from molesting the natives
who have long ago become friendly and are under their
protection. The officer goes across, finds their camp,
and invites Abdallah, their chief, to visit the English
commander of Yambuya. The Major thus learns that
these marauders really belong to Tippu-Tib, and that
Stanley Falls is but six days' march overland from
Yambuya. Probably believing that, after all, Tippu-Tib
may be persuaded to assist the Expedition, he inquires
for and obtains guides to conduct some of his party to
Stanley Falls, to speak and treat in his behalf with that
chieftain whom we have conveyed from Zanzibar to
Stanley Falls, with free rations in consideration of the
help he had solemnly contracted to furnish.
On August 29, Mr. Ward returns from the Falls with
a reply from Tippu-Tib, wherein he promises that he
will collect the carriers needed and send them within ten
days. The first promise in June was " in nine days " ;
the promise is in August " in ten days." A few days
MARCHES, AND COUNTER-MARCHES. 513
later Mr. Jameson returns from Stanley Falls in company 1888.
of Salim bin Mohammed, a nephew of Tippu-Tib, and a Aug>
large party of Manyuema. This party is reported to
be the vanguard of the carrier contingent, which Tippu-
Tib will shortly bring in person.
In the interval of waiting for him, however, trouble
breaks out; on the Lumami, and Tippu-Tib is obliged to
hurry to the scene to settle it. The Yambuya garrison,
however, are daily expecting his presence.
Unable to bear the suspense, the second visit to
Stanley Falls is undertaken, this time by Major Barttelot
in person. It is the 1st of October. Salim bin Mo-
hammed accompanied him, and also Mr. Troup. On
the way thither they met Tippu-Tib advancing towards
Yambuya, having six deserters from the advance column,
each bearing a weighty tusk. The Major graciously
remits the six ivory tusks to the Arab chief, and, as
they must have a palaver, they go together to Stanley
Falls.
After one month the Major returns to his camp, on
the Aruwimi, and states that Tippu-Tib, unable to
muster 600 carriers in the Stanley Falls region, is
obliged to proceed to Kasongo, about 350 miles above
Stanley Falls, and that this journey of about 700 miles
(to Kasongo and back) will occupy forty-two days.
Meantime, twenty of the Major's own people have
been buried outside the camp.
The English commander learns that during his ab-
sence, Majato, a head man of the Manyuema, has been
behaving " badly," that he has been, in fact, intimidating
the natives who marketed with the garrison, with the
view of starving the soldiers and Zanzibaris, or reaping
some gain by acting as the middleman or factor in the
exchange of goods for produce. Hearing these things,
the Major naturally becomes indignant, and forthwith
despatches Mr. Ward, who makes the third visit to the
Falls to complain of the arbitrary conduct of Majato.
The complaint is effective, and Majato is immediately
withdrawn.
In the beginning of 1888, Salim bin Mohammed
VOL. I. H H
514 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. arrives at Yambuya for the second time, and presently
Aug> becomes so active in enforcing certain measures against
lya ' the natives that the food supply of the camp is wholly
cut off and never renewed. He also commences the
construction of a permanent camp of substantial mud-
built huts, at half a bow-shot's distance from the pali-
sades of Yambuya, and completely invests the fort on
the land side, as though he were preparing for a siege
of the place.
After a futile effort to bribe Salim with the offer of a
thousand pounds to lead a Manyuema contingent to
follow the track of the advance column, Major Barttelot
and Mr. Jameson, about the middle of February, under-
take the fourth visit to Stanley Falls. Salim, fearing
unfavourable accounts of his behaviour, accompanies them
en route ; the party meet 250 Manyuema, but as they
have no written instructions with them, they are per-
mitted to scatter over the country in search of ivory.
In March Salim returns to Yambuya, and intimates
to the officers that no doubt the carriers would' be ulti-
mately forthcoming, not however for the purpose of
following Mr. Stanley's track, but to proceed via Ujiji
and Unyoro ; a mere haziness of geography !
On the 25th of March, Major Barttlelot returns to the
camp with information that Mr. Jameson, the inde-
fatigable Jameson, has proceeded up river in the
track of Tippu-Tib with the intention of reaching Ka-
songo. He also announces his intention of forming a
flying column, and leaving the larger part of his goods at
Stanley Falls in charge of an officer ! He also prepares
a telegram to the committee in London which is as
follows :
" St. Paul de Loanda,
" 1st May, 1888.
" No news of Stanley since writing last October. Tippu-Tib went to
Kasongo, Nov. 16th, but up to March has only got us 250 men. More are
coming, but uncertain in number, and as precaution, presuming Stanley
in trouble (it would) be absurd in me to start with less number than he
did, while carrying more loads minus Maxim gun. Therefore I have
sent Jameson to Kasongo to hasten Tippu-Tib in regard to originally
proposed number of 600 men, and to obtain as many fighting men as
possible up to 400, also to make as advantageous terms as he can
A DESPATCH FROM YAMBUYA. 515
regarding service, and payment of men, he and I guaranteeing money 1888
in name of Expedition. Jameson will return about the 14th, but earliest Aue
day to start will be June 1st, when I propose leaving an officer with all
loads not absolutely wanted at Stanley Falls. Ward carries this Banai y a<
message; please obtain wire from the King of the Belgians to the
Administrator of the Free State to place carriers at his disposal, and
have steamers in readiness to convey him to Yambuya. If men come
before his arrival I shall start without him. He should return about
July 1st. Wire advice and opinion. Officers all well. Ward awaits
reply.
" BARTTELOT."
Mr. Ward proceeded down the Congo, and in an un-
precedentedly short time reached the sea-board, cabled
his despatch, received the following reply, and started
up the Congo again for the Yambuya camp.
" Major Barttelot, care Ward, Congo.
" Committee refer you to Stanley's orders of the 24th June, 1887. If
you still cannot march in accordance with these orders, then stay where
you are, awaiting his arrival or until you receive fresh instructions from
Stanley. Committee do not authorise the engagement of fighting men.
News has been received from Emin Pasha via Zanzibar, dated Wadelai,
November 2nd. Stanley was not then heard of: Emin Pasha is well and
in no immediate want of supplies, and goes to south-west of lake to watch
for Stanley. Letters have been posted regularly via East Coast.
" Chairman of Committee."
Mr. Ward on arriving at Bangala is detained there by
order.
The Committee have made a slight mistake in calling
my letter of instructions " orders." The instructions
are not exactly " orders." They are suggestions or
advices tendered by the Commander of the Expedition
to the Commanding Officer of the rear column, which he
may follow or reject at his own discretion. Major
Barttelot has expressed an impatient desire to be of
active service to the Expedition. He declares that it is
his dearest wish to leave Yambuya to follow on our
track. The Commander of the Expedition, strongly
sympathising with the impetuous young officer, writes
out a series of suggestions by which his desire may be
realised, and gives him further a pencilled estimate (see
Appendix) by what manner the forward advance after
us may be done. The Major earnestly promises to con-
form to these suggestions, and the parting between him
and myself is on this understanding. But they are not
516 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. positive " orders,",as a man's epitaph can best be written
Aug - after his death, so the measure of " kudos " to be given
;analja ' a man is best known after the value of his services has
been ascertained.
At the end of March the Major is on bad terms with
Salim bin Mohammed, which compels him to make a
fifth visit to Stanley Falls to obtain his removal.
About the middle of April Major Barttelot returns to
his camp, and Salim has orders to quit Yambuya. In-
stead, however, of proceeding to Stanley Falls, he pro-
poses a raid upon a large village below Yambuya, but
in a few days he reappears, stating that he has heard a
rumour that the advance column is descending the
upper waters of the Aruwimi.
On the 9th of May, 1888, the Major proceeds to
make a sixth visit to Stanley Falls, and on the 22nd of
the month makes his reappearance with the indefatigable
Jameson and a large party of Manyuema. Three days
later the procrastinating Tippu-Tib, who, on the 18th of
June, 1887, said that he would be at Yambuya within
nine days, and in August within ten days, arrives by
steamer A. I. A. The Stanley also steams up to deliver
letters for the expedition.
As Tippu-Tib suggested that the loads GOlbs. weight
were too heavy for his people, the officers were obliged
to reduce them to 40, 30, and 20lb. weights, to suit his
views. This was no light task, but it had to be per-
formed. As an advance payment, Mr. Bonny relates
that forty-seven bales of cloth, a vast store of powder
and fixed ammunition are delivered, and 128 worth of
stores are given to Muini Sumai, the head man of the
Manyuema battalion. The European provisions are then
overhauled, and such articles as Madeira wine, jams,
sago, tapioca, arrowroot, sardines, herrings, and wheat
flour are boxed up, and with eight boxes of my baggage
are shipped on board the steamer for Bangala as un-
necessary and superfluous, in the same vessel on which
Mr. Troup is an invalid passenger bound home.
Finally, on the llth of June, 1888, after weeding
out twenty-nine Zanzibaris and four Soudanese who are
TWELVE HUNDRED MILES OF MARCHING. 517
too feeble to work, Messrs. Barttelot, Jameson, and
Bonny leave the camp they should have left not later Au s-
than the 25th of August, 1887, with a following of Banal y a -
Zanzibaris, Soudanese, Somalis, and Manyuema, aggre-
gating nearly 900 men, women, and children, with the
intention of making that " strenuous quest " for the lost
Commander and to relieve Emin Pasha.
These six visits to Stanley Falls which the Major and
his friends have made amount in the aggregate to 1200
English miles of marching. The untiring Major has
personally travelled 800 miles, while Jameson has per-
formed 1200 miles. If only these 1200 miles had been
travelled between Yambuya and the Albert, the rear
column would have reached Panga Falls. Even by
travelling sixty miles, to gain a direct advance of ten
miles, they would have been cheered and encouraged by
our letters and charts to press on to Avejeli to recupe-
rate among the abundant plantains of that rich and
populous settlement.
But while the Major and his officers were endeavour-
ing to stimulate an unwilling man to perform his con-
tract with forty-five guinea rifles, Eemington rifles,
ivory- handled revolvers and ammunition, with many a
fair bale of cloth, their own faithful men were dying at
a frightful rate. Out of the original roll of 271, there
are only 132 left of rank and file, and out of these 132
by the time they have arrived at Banalya there are only
101 remaining, and nearly a half of these are so wasted
by famine and disease that there is no hope of life in
them.
Thirteen days after the departure of the horde of
Manyuema and the anaemic Zanzibaris from the fatal
camp of Yambuya, the Major undertakes a seventh visit
to Stanley Falls, and leaves the column to struggle on
its way to Banalya without him. On the forty-third
day of the march of ninety miles the van of the rear
column enters the palisaded village of Banalya, which
has become in my absence a station of Tippu-Tib's in
charge of an Arab called Abdallah Karoni, and on the
same day the restless and enterprising Major enters it
518 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. on his return from Stanley Falls. On the next day
Au s- some misunderstanding takes place between him and
Banaiya. ^ c ^ Q f Abdallah Karoni. The Major storms at him,
and threatens to start to Stanley Falls for the eighth
visit on the 20th of July to complain of his conduct
to Tippu-Tib ; but at dawn on the 19th of July the
unfortunate commander is shot through the heart by
the assassin Sanga.
I will permit Mr. William Bonny 's official report to
detail what occurred in a revised form.
" 18*7* July, 1888. The Major continued to threaten Abdalla that if he
did not get the carriers promised by Tippu-Tib he would return to Stanley
Falls on the 20th, and he ordered the Arab to accompany him. The
Major informed me he would be back on the 9th of August, but before
concluding his remarks, he asked me, ' Don't you think I am doing the
correct thing by going to Stanley Falls? ' I answered, ' No, I don't see
why you want sixty more men ; you have men enough and to spare !
You had better issue the rifles and ammunition to the men, and that
will reduce the number of our burdens by fifteen, and trust the men.
Mr. Stanley is obliged to trust the men. If they run away from you, they
run away from him, but if you leave them in my hands I don't think
they will run.' The Major said, ' I intend that you shall have command
of the Zanzibaris and Soudanese from here, and you shall precede the
Manyuema a day's march. Mr. Jameson and I will march with the
Manyuema and get them into some order, and see they do not mix up
with your people. I don't want to go to the Falls, but I want you to try
to get some few men. If you only get me twenty I shall be satisfied.
I asked Abdallah if he could let me have a few carriers. I obtained
seven.'
" 19th July. Early this morning a Manyuema woman commenced
beating a drum and singing. It is their daily custom. The Major sent
his boy Soudi, who was only about thirteen years old, to stop them, but
at once loud and angry voices were heard, followed by two shots by way
of defiance. The Major ordered some Soudanese to go and find the men
who were firing, at the same time getting up from bed himself and
taking his revolvers from the case. He said, ' I will shoot the first man
I catch firing.' I told him not to interfere with the people's daily
custom, to remain inside, and not go out, inasmuch as they would soon
be quiet. He went out revolver in hand to where the Soudanese were.
They told him that they could not find the men who were firing. The
Major then pushed aside some Manyuema and passed through them to-
wards the woman who was beating the drum and singing, and ordered
her to desist. Just then a shot was fired through a loophole, in an
opposite hut from within, by Sanga, the woman's husband. The charge
penetrated just below the region of the heart and passed out behind,
lodging finally in a part of the verandah under which the Major fell dead.
" The Soudanese ran away, and refused to follow me to get the Major's
body ; but I went, and was followed by one Somali, and one Soudanese,
who with myself carried the body to my house. From the screaming I
thought a general massacre had commenced, for I had not seen a single
Zanzibari. They were either hiding within their houses or joining in the
general stampede that followed. I now turned and saw one of the head-
MR. SONNY'S REPORT. 519
men of the Manyuema, who with rifle and revolver in hand was leading a ig88
body of sixty of his people to attack me. I had no arms. I walked up A. ug '
to him and asked him if he was leading his men to fight mo. He replied K
' No.' I said, ' Then take your men quietly to their houses and bring all
the headmen to me, for I wish to speak to them.' Some headmen shortly
afterwards made their appearance, and I said to them, ' The trouble is
not mine, but Tippu-Tib's. I want you to bring me all the loads, and tell
all your fellows to do the same. Tippu-Tib knows what each of you has in
charge and is responsible for them. This is Tippu-Tib's trouble. Tippu-
Tib will have to pay up if the goods are lost, and will punish the head-
man who causes him a loss. I shall write to him, and he will come here,
and he shall know the name of him who refuses to do what I now wish.'
This lesulted in my getting back to the storeroom about 150 loads. I
now sent my men to collect what goods they could, and before long I.
recovered 299 porter loads. They had been scattered all over the place,
some in the forest, in the rice field, and in the village huts hidden away
within and without, in fact everywhere. Some of the bead sacks and
ammunition boxes had already been ripped or broken open, and the
whole of their contents, or in part, gone. After counting up I found I
was forty-eight loads short. The inhabitants of the village numbered
about 200 or 300 people. I had arrived with about 100 men ; Muni
Sumai, the chief headman of the Manyuema, with 430 carriers and
aboui 200 followers, making a total of about 1000 people, of whom 900
were cannibals, all confined within an area 160 yards by 25 yards. You
can therefore better judge than I can describe the scene when the general
stampede commenced, the screaming, firing, shouting, looting our stores,
&c., &c. I regret to say that the Soudanese and Zanzibaris without
exception joined in the looting, but in my turn I raided their houses and
haunts and captured a quantity of cloth, beads, rice, &c. I had to
punish severely before I succeeded in stopping it. I now wrote to Mr.
Jameson, who was about four days off bringing up the remaining loads.
I also wrote to Mons. Baert, a Congo State officer, and secretary to Tippu-
Tib at Stanley Falls, explaining what had taken place, how I was
situated, and asking him to use all his tact with Tippu-Tib to get him to
come here or send some chief to replace Muini Sumai, who had been one
of the first to abscond. I told Mons. Baert to tell Tippu-Tib that all
Europe would blame him if he did not assist us. I then buried the
Major, after sewing the body up in a blanket. I dug a grave just within
the forest, placing leaves as a cushion at the bottom of the grave, and
covered the body with the same. I then read the church service from our
Prayer-Book over the body, and this brought the terrible day to a close.
" The Major wrote and handed me the official order appointing me in
command of the Zanzibari and Soudanese when the camp at Yambuya
was in great danger, find his own life especially. I therefore take com-
mand of this Second Column of the Emin Pasha Belief Expedition until
I see Mr. Stanley or return to the coast.
"It shall be my constant care under God's help to make it more
successful than heretofore. Mr. Jameson will occupy the same position
as shown in Mr. Stanley's instructions to Major Barttelot on his going to
Stanley Falls to settle with Tippu-Tib for another headman of the
Manyuema He has free hands, believing himself to be in command. I
did not undeceive him. On his return here I will show him the docu-
ment, a copy of which I have given above.
" I have the honour to be, Sir,
ft-Q fyQ
" To H. M. Stanley, Esq., " WILLIAM BONNY.
" Commander E.P.R.E."
520 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. Three days after the tragedy Mr. Jameson appears at
Aug - Banalya with the rear guard of the rear column, and
ialpu assumes command ; but on the 25th of July, after
leaving words of encouragement to Mr. Bonny, he
undertakes the eighth visit to Stanley Falls in the hope
that by making liberal offers of gold to satisfy the avari-
cious Tippu-Tib he may induce him either to head the
Rear Column himself, or send one of his fiery nephews
in his place Salim bin Mohammed, or Rashid, who
assaulted and captured Stanley Falls from Captain
Deane.
On August 12th he writes his last letter (see Appen-
dix) to Mr. Bonny, and begins it, " The Expedition is at
a very low ebb at present, as I think you wil] acknow-
ledge." This is a sad fact very patent to everybody.
After seeing the act of justice performed on the
wretched assassin Sanga, and witnessing the shooting of
him and the body tossed into the Congo, he departs from
Stanley Falls for Bangala. For Mr. Jameson and Major
Barttelot were both concerned in the detention of Ward
for some reason at Bangala, and therefore the answer of
the Committee to their cablegram of the 1st of May was
in his possession. Mr. Jameson is anxious to know w T hat
its tenor is before a final movement, and he departs in
a canoe with ten Zanzibaris. Night and day they float,
and when opposite the Lumami he is attacked with fever.
His constitution is open to its virulence, filled as his
mind is with despondency, for the fortunes of the Expe-
dition are despite every strenuous endeavour on his part,
his whole-hearted devotion, his marches and counter-
marches, his tramp of 1400 miles (1200 miles before
leaving Yambuya, thence to Banalya, and then to
Stanley Falls), his sacrifice of money, physical comforts,
and the pouring out of his soul to effect what he thinks
ought to be done but alas ! " at their lowest ebb." And
the fever mounts to his brain. By day and night the
canoe-men press on to the goal of Bangala Station, and
arrive in time to put him in the arms of Mr. Ward,
where he breathes his last, as the advance column, re-
turning after its rushing and swinging pace through
A DREADFUL PEST-HOLD. 521
forest and by river from the Albert Nyanza, enter isss.
Banalya to demand " Where is Jameson ? " Au s-
Twenty-eight days after the tragic death of Major ]
Barttelot, and twenty-three days after the departure of
Jameson, the advance column returning from the Albert
Nyanza, much reduced in numbers, and so tattered in
their clothing that they were taken for pagans picked
up by the way and their old comrades failed to recognise
them, appeared at Banalya to learn for the first time the
distressful story of the rear column.
The life of misery which was related was increased
by the misery which we saw. Pen cannot picture nor
tongue relate the full horrors witnessed within that
dreadful pest-hold. The nameless scourge of barbarians
was visible in the faces and bodies of many a hideous-
looking human being, who, disfigured, bloated, marred
and scarred, came, impelled by curiosity, to hear and
see us who had come from the forest land east, and who
were reckless of the terror they inspired by the death
embodied in them. There were six dead bodies lying
unburied, and the smitten living with their festers
lounged in front of us by the dozen. Others worn to
thin skin and staring bone from dysentery and fell
anaemia, and ulcers as large as saucers, crawled about
and hollowly sounded their dismal welcome a welcome
to this charnel yard ! Weak, wearied, and jaded in
body and mind, I scarcely know how I endured the first
few hours, the ceaseless story of calamity vexed my ears,
a deadly stench of disease hung in the air, and the most
repellent sights moved and surged before my dazed
eyes. I heard of murder and death, of sickness and
sorrow, anguish and grief, and wherever I looked the
hollow eyes of dying men met my own with such trust-
ing, pleading regard, such far-away yearning looks, that
it seemed to me if but one sob was uttered my heart
would break. I sat stupefied under a suffocating sense
of despondency, yet the harrowing story moved on in
a dismal cadence that had nought else in it but death
and disaster, disaster and death. A hundred graves at
Yambuya thirty-three men perishing abandoned in the
522 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. camp, ten dead on the road, about forty in the village
Aug - about to yield their feeble hold of life, desertions over
Qaya ' twenty, rescued a passable sixty ! And of the gallant
band of Englishmen ? " Barttelot's grave is but a few
yards off, Troup went home a skeleton, Ward is some-
where a wanderer, Jameson has gone to the Falls, I don't
know why." " And you you are the only one left ? "
" The only one, sir."
If I were to record all that I saw at Banalya in its
deep intensity of unqualified misery, it would be like
stripping the bandages off a vast sloughing ulcer,
striated with bleeding arteries, to the public gaze, with
no earthly purpose than to shock and disgust.
Implicitly believing as we did in the elan of Barttelot,
in the fidelity of Jameson, in the vigorous youth and
manly promise of Ward, in the prudence and trustworthi-
ness of Troup, and the self-command and steadiness of
Bonny, all these revelations came to me with a severe
shock. The column was so complete with every requisite
for prolonged and useful work, but the " flood-tide of
opportunity" flowed before them unseen and unnoted,
therefore their marches became mere " marking time."
What, Barttelot ! that tireless man with the ever-
rushing pace, that cheery young soldier, with his daunt-
less bearing, whose soul was ever yearning for glory. A
man so lavishly equipped with Nature's advantages to
bow the knee thus to the grey craftiness at Stanley
Falls ! It was all an unsolved riddle to me. I would
have wagered he would have seized that flowing grey
beard of Tippu-Tib and pounded the face to pulp, even
in the midst of his power, rather than allow himself
to be thus cajoled time and time again. The fervid
vehemence of his promise not to wait a day after the
fixed date yet rings in my ears ; I feel the strong grip,
and see the resolute face, and I remember my glowing
confidence in him.
It is said that " Still waters run deep." Now Jameson
was such a still, and patient, and withal determined man
that we all conceded a certain greatness to him. He
had paid 1000 sterling, and had promised diligence and
THE SAD DEATH OF JAMESON. 523
zealous service, for the privilege of being enrolled as a isss.
member of the Expedition. He had a passion for Au? -
natural history to gratify, with a marked partiality for Banalya -
ornithology and entomology. According to Barttelot,
" his alacrity, capacity, and willingness to work were
unbounded," which I unqualifiedly endorse. What else
he was may be best learned in his letter of August 12,
and his entries in the log book. Zeal and activity grow
into promise and relief as we read, he seals his devo-
tion by offering out of his purse 10,000, and by that
unhappy canoe voyage by day and by night, until he
was lifted to his bed to die at Bangala.
Granted that Tippu-Tib was kind to these young
gentlemen during their frequent visits to Stanley Falls,
and welcomed and feasted them on the best, and that
he sent them back to Yambuya with loads of rice and
flocks of goats, which is admitted. But his natural
love of power, his ignorance of geography, his barbarous
conceit, his growing indolence, and his quickened avarice
proved insuperable obstacles to the realizing of Barttelot
and Jameson's wishes, and were as fatally opposite to
their interests and dearest desires as open war would
have been. The wonder to me is that the officers never
seem to be conscious that their visits and rich gifts to
him are utterly profitless, and that the object they have
at heart, their inherited qualities, their education, habits,
and natures forbid any further repetition of them. For
some mysterious reason they pin their faith with the
utmost tenacity to Tippu-Tib, and to his promises of
" nine days," then " ten days," then " forty-two days,"
&c., &c., all of which are made only to be broken.
But the most icy heart may well be melted with com-
passion for these young men so prematurely cut off
and so near rescue after all. They bravely attempt to
free their clouded minds and to judge clearly in which
course lies their duty. At their mess-table they sit
discussing what ought to be done. Mind gravitates to
mind, and ignites a spark of the right sort ; it is uttered,
but some one or something quenches the spark as
soon as it flashes, and the goodly purpose goes astray
524 IN DARKEST AFE1OA.
1888. They propose a number of schemes wide apart from the
Aug ' simple suggestions that I have furnished them with, and
Bannlva. f - toG , ., . i . n i
each project as soon as it is born is frustrated by some
untoward event soon after. Though they all are un-
doubtedly animated by the purest motives, and remain
to the end unquestionably loyal throughout every act
they are doing themselves irreparable injury, and un-
consciously weighing their friends of the advance column
down to the verge of despair with anxieties.
The following is Mr. Herbert Ward's report, which in
justice I feel bound to publish :
" Windsor Hotel,
"New York City,
" Feb. 13th, 1890.
" On August 14th, 1887, Troup, Bonny, and myself, with the men and
loads, arrived at Yambuya from Bolobo. We found that since your
departure on June 28th, 1887, nothing had been heard of Tippu-Tib, and
that the Major and Jameson had occupied their time in obtaining fire-
wood for the steamer. On the following afternoon after our arrival, a
band of Manyuema attacked the temporary village that the Chief Ngunga
had built on the opposite side of the river, just below the rapids. Bonny
and I crossed in a canoe to discover who they were, but apparently as
soon as they saw the steamer lying alongside our camp, they cleared off
into the forest, and returned to their own camp, which the natives told
us was but a few hours' journey up the river. The next day the head man
of the Manyuemas, named Abdallah, came to us with a few followers, and
gave an account of how Tippu-Tib. true to his word, had sent about
500 men to us in canoes under Salim bin Mohammed, but that they had
encountered much hostility from the natives, and after paddling against
the stream for several days, and finding no indication of our camp they
disbanded, and Salim sent small bands of Manyuemas in different direc-
tions to try and discover our whereabouts, and Abdallah represented
himself as being the head-man of one of the parties sent in search of our
camp. Another version of the story to account for the 500 men dis-
banding when on their way up the Aruwimi, was that their ammunition
had given out, and the natives proved too strong for them Abdallah
stated that Tippu-Tib was quite willing to supply the men, and that as
Stanley Falls was only a few days' journey, we could easily go ourselves
and see Tippu-Tib, and that he himself would be ready the next day to
accompany us and act as guide.
" The Major instructed Jameson and myself to proceed to the Falls. We
were there told the same story again, of how Tippu-Tib had sent a large
number of men to us, but that they had disbanded on the Aruwimi Eiver
on account of their being unable to pass some populous village, where the
natives had attacked and driven them back, as they were short of gun-
powder. Tippu Tib professed his willingness to supply the men, but
said that it would require some time to collect them together again.
" As there were upwards of 600 valuable loads stored in Yambuya Camp,
and only a sufficient number of able-bodied men to carry 175, we all con-
sidered it better to guard the loads in the camp where there was abund-
ance of food for the men, until the arrival of Tippu-Tib's promised aid
than to discard a portion of the loads and to make triple marches ; for we
MR. HERBERT WARD'S REPORT. 525
were all convinced from evidence we had of men even deserting from the 1888
camp, that after the first few days' marching most of our men would AUC
desert and join the Arab band of Waswahili and Manyuema raiders, who, p
we found, were traversing the country in all directions, and whose free,
unrestrained manner of living rendered our men dissatisfied with their
lot, and tempted them to desert us and accompany their compatriots.
The Major, our chief, personally disliked the Zanzibaris, and lacked the
proper influence over them.
" Tippu-Tib continued to procrastinate, and in the meantime a large
number of our Zanzibaris, many of whom, however, from the first were
organically diseased and poorly, sickened and died. They were always
employed, and the cause of their death cannot be attributed to inaction.
Being fatalists, they resigned themselves without an effort, for the
Bwana Makubwa, with their comrades, had gone into the dark forests,
and they all verily believed had perished. They themselves, when they
found that upon no consideration would there ever be a chance of
returning to their own country except by the deadly forest route, looked
upon the situation as hopeless, gave way, and died.
" We expected you to return to Yambuya about the end of November ;
but time passed away and we received no news from you. We were
unable to make triple marches owing to the sad condition of our people.
Every means was tried to urge Tippu-Tib to produce the men, but
without avail.
" In February, 1888, the Major and Jameson went again to the Falls,
and on the 24th March the Major returned to Yambuya. He stated that
he had guaranteed the payment of a large sum of money to Tippu-Tib if
he would produce the men, that Jameson had gone to Kasongo to hurry
them up, and that he considered that the Committee should be informed
of the state of affairs ; firstly, that no news whatever had been received
from you since your departure, nine months before; secondly, that
Tippu-Tib's aid was not forthcoming, that we were still in Yambuya
unable to march. No steamers had visited the camp since the arrival of
the last contingent.
" It appeared to us that evidently circumstances had prevented you
from communicating with us after your departure, and that news about
your movements might have reached the east coast.
" As it appeared possible to reach Loanda and communicate by cable
with the Committee and return to Yambuya by the time Jameson was
expected from Kasongo, the Major instructed me to convey and despatch
a cablegram which he himself worded and signed. I accomplished the
journey in thirty days, and immediately upon receiving their reply (the
clause " we refer you to Mr. Stanley's instructions of June 24th," was
precisely what both Troup and I expected before my departure), I
hastened back as far as Bangala, where I was instructed to remain by
the Major until I received further news from the Committee, to whom he
had written, that he had no further use for my services or the loads he
had sent down in Le Stanley.
"Five weeks after my arrival at Bangala, news came down by the
En Evant that the Major had been assassinated. Jameson, who was
at the Falls seeing to the punishment of the murderer and reorganisation
of the Manyuema contingent, wrote and urged me to stay at Bangala.
Having descended from the Falls in canoes, he was in the last stage of
bilious fever. Despite every care and attention, he died the following
day. He came down to Bangala to learn the Committee's reply to the
Major's cable, and to take back the Bangala loads and myself in the
steamer that the State officer at the Falls had assured him would be at
Bangala on its way up to the Falls just about the time he would arrive.
526 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
1888. ?hk information about the steamer was false, and on the first day of his
journey down in the canoes he caught a fatal chill, which resulted in his
u ; death from bilious fever. There being no possible chance of my joining
Bonny, as no steamer was to again visit the Falls for some months, 1
went to the coast to acquaint the Committee with the fact of Jameson's
death, and the position of affairs as I learnt them from Jameson before
his death. They cabled an order for me to return to the Falls, and hand
over the remaining stores to the State Station there, and to bring down
Bonny and the men for shipment. Upon reaching Stanley Pool I found
that news had just been received of your arrival at Banalya and return
to Emin Pasha. I continued my journey, however, to the Falls, and
took up with me all the loads that the Major had sent down to Bangala.
1 remained one month at the Falls anxiously hoping for further news of
you.
" After collecting all that remained of the sick men whom the Major
handed over to Tippu-Tib, I descended the Congo again in canoes and
returned to Europe according to the cabled instructions of the Com-
mittee.
" The above is a simple and truthful statement of facts relating to the
failure of the rear guard.
" No one can feel more bitterly disappointed at the unfortunate condition
of affairs than myself. I regret most sincerely that my services were so
profitless.
" I remain,
" Always yours faithfully,
(Signed) " HERBERT WARD.
" Henry M. Stanley, Esq."
Mr. Ward informed me that he had discovered my
eight boxes of reserve clothing and Expedition neces-
saries at Bangala ; that he took them with him to
Stanley Falls 500 miles above Bangala and then
brought them down to Banana Point on the sea-coast,
where he left them. No person knows though diligent
enquiry has been made what has become of them.
APPENDIX
MAJOR BARTTELOT'S Last Report of events at Yambuya :
Yambuya Camp, June 4, 1888.
SIR, I have the honour to report to you that we are about to
make a move, though with far less numbers than I originally
intended. Tippu-Tib has at last, but with great reluctance, given us
400 men. I have also obtained from another Arab called Muini
Somai thirty more carriers ; we shall move not earlier than the 9th
of June, and our forces will be as follows : Soudanese 22, rifles 22 ;
Zanzibaris 110, rifles 110, loads 90 ; Manyuema 430, muskets 300,
loads 380. The officers who are going are Major Barttelot, in
command ; Mr. J. S. Jameson, second in command ; Mr. W. Bonny ;
Sheik Muini Somai in command of Manyuema force.
Sheik Muini Somai is an Arab of Kibonge, who volunteered to
accompany the Expedition as commander under me of the native
contingent.
On May 8, the Belgian steamer A. I. A., with M. van Kerk-hoven,
the chief of Bangala, arrived here, having on board Mr. Ward's
escort of thirty Zanzibaris and four Soudanese, one Soudanese dying
at Bangala.
May llth. They left us to go to Stanley Falls.
May I4:th. I left for Stanley Falls, going overland and catching
the steamer at Yallasula, on the Congo. I proceeded with the
Belgians to the Falls on May 22.
Mr. Jameson and Tippu-Tib, with 400 men, returned from
Kasongo.
Mr. Jameson wrote to you while at Kasongo of his proceedings
there. He told me on arrival that Tippu-Tib had promised
him 800 men, but would make no written agreement with him.
May %Srd. I had my palaver with Tippu-Tib ; he then told me
he could only let me have 400 men, 300 of whom were to carry
40-lb. loads, and 100 20-lb. loads. He said the men were present,
and ready to start as soon as I had my loads ready. I told him of
what he had promised Mr. Jameson at Kasongo, but he said never
had any mention of 800 men been made, only of the 400. That it
was quite impossible he could give us more men, as he was short of
men at Kasongo and Nyangwe, as he was at present engaged in so
many wars that he had completely drained the country. I was
528 IN DAEKEST AFRICA.
forced to submit, but hoped that he might be able to collect another
100 or so at and around Yambuya.
Tippu then asked me if I wanted a headman, stating that in the
former agreement Mr. Stanley had said that if a headman was taken
he should be paid. I replied, Certainly I want a headman. He then
presented me to the Arab, Muini Somai. This man agreed to come,
and I send you the terms I settled with him.
I got back to Camp Yambuya May 30.
June 4bth. The Stanley steamer arrived, and the A. I. A., the
former bringing Belgian officers for the Falls Station, the latter
Tippu-Tib himself.
June 5th. I had another palaver with Tippu-Tib, asking him
where were the 250 men already sent ; he explained to me that they
had been dispersed, and on trying to collect them they refused to
come, owing to the bad reports brought in by the deserters, and that as
they were subjects and not slaves he could not force them. That
was the reason why he had brought 400 entirely fresh men from
Kasongo for us.
However, Tippu said he could let me have thirty more men
of Muini Somai. This, as I was so terribly short of men, I
agreed to.
Muini Somai himself appears a willing man, and very anxious to
do his best. He volunteered for the business. I trust you will not
think his payment excessive, but the anxiety it takes away as regards
his men and the safety of the loads is enormous, for he is responsible
for the Manyuema and the loads they carry, and thus saves the white
officers an amount of work and responsibility which they can now
devote to other purposes.
The loads we do not take are to be sent to Bangala. They will
be loaded up in the A. I. A., or Stanley, on June 8, a receipt being
given for them by Mr. Van Kerk-hoven, which is marked B and
forwarded to you, also a letter of instruction to him and to Mr. Ward.
Perhaps you would kindly give the requisite order concerning the
loads and the two canoes purchased in March for Mr. Ward's
transport, also for those stores purchased by Mr. Ward on behalf of
the Expedition, as it is nearly certain I shall not return this way, and
shall therefore have no further need of them or him. Mr. Troup,
who is in a terrible condition of debility and internal disarrangement,
is proceeding home at his own request. Mr. Bonny's certificate of
his unfitness is attached, and his application marked E, also letters
concerning passage, &c., to M. Fontaine, marked F. I have given
him a passage home at the expense of the Expedition, as I am sure it
would be your and their wish.
The interpreter, Assad Farran, I am also sending home. He has
been, and is, utterly useless to me, and is in failing health ; and if I
APPENDIX. 529
took him with me I would only, after a few marches, have either to
carry or leave him, and I am terribly short of carriers. So I have
ventured to send him home with a steerage passage to Cairo, and
have sent a letter to the Consul-General, Cairo, concerning him ; also
copy of agreement made by Assad Farran with me on his proceeding
home ; also papers of interpreter, Alexander Hadad, who died
June 24, 1887, both marked G. These two interpreters made no
sort of agreement concerning pay, terms of service, &c., when they
agreed to come on this Expedition in February, 1887, so perhaps you
would kindly inform the proper authorities on that subject. With
British troops in Egypt, as interpreters, they would have received net
more than 6 a month and their rations, for as interpreters they were
both very inferior.
A Soudanese soldier with a diseased leg is also proceeding down
cc intry. Besides these there are four other Soudanese and twenty-
nine Zanzibaris who are unable to proceed with us. Tippu-Tib has
kindly consented to get these to Zanzibar as best he can. A complete
list of them, their payments, &c., will be forwarded to the Consul at
Zanzibar, and I have requested him to forward on the Soudanese to
Egypt.
My intentions on leaving this camp are to make the best of my
way along the same route taken by Mr. Stanley ; should I get no
tidings of him along the road, to proceed as far as Kavalli, and then
if I hear nothing there to proceed to Kibero. If I can ascertain
either at Kavalli or Kibero his whereabouts, no matter how far it
may be, I will endeavour to reach him. Should he be in a fix I will
do my utmost to relieve him. If neither at Kavalli nor Kibero I
can obtain tidings of him, I shall go on to Wadelai and ascertain
from Emin Pasha, if he be there still, if he has any news of Mr.
Stanley, also of his own intentions as regards staying or leaving. I
will persuade him, if possible, to come out with me, and, if necessary,
aid me in my search for Mr. Stanley. Should it for sundry reasons
be unnecessary to look further for Mr. Stanley, I will place myself
and force at his disposal to act as his escort, proceeding by which-
ever route is most feasible, so long as it is not through Uganda, as in
that event the Manyuemas would leave me, as I have promised Tippu-
Tib they shall not go there, and that I will bring them back or send
a white officer with them back to their own country by the shortest
and quickest route on completion of my object. This is always
supposing Emin Pasha to be there and willing to come away. It
may be he only needs ammunition to get away by himself, in which
case I would in all probability be able to supply him, and would send
three-fourths of my Zanzibar force and my two officers with him, and
would myself, with the other Zanzibaris, accompany the Lianyuema-,
back to the Tippu-Tib's country, and so te tho coast, by the shortest
VOL. I II
530 IN DARKEST AFRICA.
route viz., by the Muta-Nzige, Tanganika and Ujiji. This is also
the route I should take should we be unable to find Stanley, or, from
the reasons either that he is not there or does not wish to come,
relieve Emin Pasha.
I need not tell you that all our endeavours will be most strenuous
to make the quest in which we are going a success, and I hope that
my actions may meet with the a
