In the heart of Africa

•$••

CHAPTER VI

IN THE VOLCANIC REGION

THE Virunga volcanic group rises up like a mighty barrier
4,500 metres above sea-level, from the bottom of the great
Central African rift-valley, that vast depression which stretches
from the southern end of Lake Tanganjika over Lakes Kiwu
and Albert Edward to Albert Nyanza. There are eight gigantic
volcanoes, or earth upheavals, which bear testimony to the mighty
subterranean forces concealed in the womb of the earth. Daunt-
lessly their colossal forms tower up to the skies, and not
infrequently one sees the dazzling snow on their highest peaks
gleaming under a tropical sun.

The summit line of the volcanoes forms the natural northern
boundary of the German province of Ruanda, and it is to be
hoped that before long, and definitely, it will also mark the
political boundary between this part of German East Africa
and the neighbouring Congo State. German enterprise and
German exploration work have opened it up to the civilised
world. It was for the sake of the Virunga volcanoes that Count
Gotzen undertook his expedition right across Africa in 1893,
and this journey led, as mentioned in the previous chapter, to
the discovery of Lake Kiwu, and also brought us the first
accurate information concerning the volcanic area in its northern
section. Our knowledge of this part of the country has since been
increased and supplemented by the work of the German Congo
Boundary Expedition (in which undertaking Captain Herrmann
represented Germany's interests), by Dr. Kandt's meritorious
exploring work, and by the journeys of investigation made by
German officers like Bethe, von Beringe, yon Parisch, and others.

ii2 In the Heart of Africa

Yet the Virunga volcanic region still remained a terra incognita
in many respects, and it was not possible that it should be
otherwise. The animal and plant world, and more especially
the geological conditions, concealed many problems not yet
solved. And thus a great deal of work had been left here for
our expedition to accomplish. We now set ourselves to attempt
a solution of these open questions, by thorough expert investiga-
tion and systematic work.

I must decline in this place to handle exhaustively the subject
of the results of our explorations in the volcanic territory.
They may be left for discussion in scientific treatises. The
chief object of the following pages is to present to the reader
in broad and general outlines an intelligible picture of the
volcanoes and of their neighbouring territory round Lake Kiwu,
and to afford him an impression, if only a fleeting one, of the
mysterious sway exercised by the subterranean powers visible in
the great Central Africa rift-valley, without doubt one of the most
stupendous excavations in the earth's surface that is known.

A glance at the map shows that the Virunga volcanoes may
be separated into three clearly distinct groups : a western, a
middle, and an eastern group. The western group, by far the
most interesting, is the scene of the most recent volcanic out-
breaks, and comprises Mounts Namlagira and Ninagongo, which
are still active. The eastern and central groups, on the contrary,
are each composed of three extinct volcanoes. The middle group
contains Mikeno, Karissimbi and Wissoke ; whilst the eastern
one is composed of three volcanic cones, Sabinjo, Mgahinga and
Muhawura, the last of which is visible in clear weather as the
most eastern extremity of the Virunga, and can be seen as far
away as Karagwe and Ankole.

The nearest volcano to Kissenji is Ninagongo, the base of
which may be reached in a three-hours' march. The way thither
is not particularly charming, as it winds through an unbroken
line of fields. At the foot of the mountain their number was
still so large that we had trouble in finding a free spot in which
to pitch our tents. But Kissubi, the black guide, who attached

AT THE FOOT OF MOUNT NINAGONGO

VIRGIN BUSH FOREST IN AN OLD CRATER

In the Volcanic Region 113

himself to us, knew his business and conducted us to a spot
where other tents had stood before ours. Since the first ascent
of Ninagongo by Count Gotzen in the year 1894, Kissubi's
services have often been requisitioned. The proximity of the
military post of Kissenji on German, and of Ngoma and
Bobandana on Congolese, territory has brought about a relatively
frequent ascent of the mountain.

The principal peak soars up in strong relief against the
cloudless heavens, blunted at the top and typically conical in
character, and is flanked on the north and south by lower-lying
craters. Whilst the northern and southern craters have long
been extinct, and are wooded to the top, the main middle cone
gives unmistakable appearance of activity. The vegetation does
not reach quite up to the summit, while beyond is barren lava
and ashes, which in the course of time has developed into
calcareous tufa.

The ascent was carried out with a limited number of carriers
only. The little caravan toiled slowly along the narrow paths
and through a growth of vegetation, which Captain Herrmann
has termed virgin bush forest. It consists of a thicket of shrubs
and trees of medium height, and is in places almost impenetrable.
The lower part is dominated by a growth of even-branched
acanthus bushes, about six metres in height, bearing large, soft
leaves, belonging, perhaps, to the genus Metier a. Further up
Mildbraed observed a small bush-like dracana appear very
frequently. Great trees with tall trunks grew isolated here
and there.

After passing the forest we reached a region of cammock.
A mass of bushes and shrubs, hardly the height of a man, with
rod-shaped branches, grow crowded together. The very uniform
style of this rod-like growth creates a somewhat monotonous
impression, in spite of the wealth of species met with. It is
worthy of mention, as Mildbraed points out, that here the heaths
do not play so important a part as usual in African brushwood.
On the lower line of the region Erica arborea are found, and on
the upper Philippia Johnstonii ; but the greater portion of the
P

ii4 In the Heart of Africa

vegetation consists of senecio and conyza species, with grey-
green foliage. The bushy helichrysum, with yellow-white and
silvery pink immortelle blossoms, adorned the entire formation
in profusion. In places where the bush grows less densely a
lot of low shrubs have sprung up, which belong in part to
species often met with at home : small blackberry bushes, clover,
violets, and the umbella, Sanicula euro-pcea. Then there are
several genuses of common orchids reminiscent of species found
in our meadows.

Above the brushwood, which is representative of the sub-
alpine region, come the "alpine" growths, with the most noted
and characteristic plant of the East African Alps, the arborescent
Senecio ] ohnstonii. Yet the specimens on the Ninagongo cone do
not attain large dimensions, the better trees being found singly
only lower down. They are strange growths. Imagine a stem
about twenty centimetres in diameter, repeatedly bisected and
trisected so as to form a crown built up candelabra fashion,
and place at the ends of the heavy branches bunches of luxuriant,
fresh-green, shaggy-haired tobacco-like leaves, the older of which
hang down brown and withered. Then picture to yourself great
pyramid-shaped panicles of yellow blossom-heads about a metre
in height, and resembling somewhat the Senecio paluster, grow-
ing out of the clusters of leaves, and you may, perhaps, gain
some idea of these senecio trees, which attain a height of six
metres. On the Ninagongo cone these trees are only some two
metres high, and decrease in stature as the summit is approached.
A small kind of everlasting Helichrysum Newii and a beautiful
ground-orchid, with dark rose-red blossoms, grow fairly high
up. The lava in the upper part of the crater cone is as hard
as iron, and has nothing but mosses, liver-wort and lichens
to offer amongst its rifts and fissures.

The most characteristic point, according to Mildbraed, about
the Ninagongo vegetation lies in the fact that all the formations
are still in a state of development. The virgin underwood is
still young, and will, some time or other, doubtless be sup-
planted by bambubaceous and other foliaged trees. The ericacecz

CLOUD FORMATION ON THE SUMMIT OF NINAGONGO

In the Volcanic Region 115

may, perhaps, later oust the smaller senecio and conyzeae species,
whilst the Senecio Johnstonii may spread over the whole cone up
to its summit. Later on the larger stalked lobelia may make its
appearance.

After a toilsome ascent of three hours' duration, we set up
camp about 500 metres below the peak, in the saddle between
the middle and the south crater. We were surrounded by a
dense mist, which obscured our view of the summits. We had
hardly fixed the last tent when a storm broke over our heads,
accompanied by a tremendous shower of hail, which quickly
transformed the aspect of the scene into one of winter. The
temperature sank correspondingly rapidly, and the cold was so
severe that the poor carriers crowded into the cover of the tents
for protection against it. Then the heavens suddenly cleared,
and the summit of the volcano stood out in splendid relief,
like a dark silhouette against the passing clouds. We had
profited by our rest to make a scanty meal, and at once set
about attempting the ascent to the summit. The slope rises at an
angle of 35 degrees, and the climb was rendered exceedingly
arduous in consequence of the slight foothold afforded by the
stony ground. Moreover, the unaccustomed rarity of the air
made itself oppressively felt, so that one was compelled to stop
still nearly every hundred paces and breathe heavily, whilst one's
heart beat audibly. Had we conceived any idea of the picture
awaiting us, however, we would have hurried more. For
in a few moments we were gazing down speechless into a colossal
arena indescribable in its grandeur.

The flattened summit of Ninagongo is almost entirely occupied
by a mighty and nearly circular eruptive area, the Count
Gotzen crater. I christened it thus in honour of its intrepid
discoverer. The inner walls fall away steep below and terminate
in an almost level lava bottom, in the centre of which two steep-
walled eruptive shafts have been blasted out ; these lie in juxta-
position, giving the appearance of a very large and somewhat
flattened figure 8. The measurements taken by Lieutenant Weiss
will best give an idea of the enormous dimensions of the Count

u6 In the Heart of Africa

Gotzen crater. According to these, the diameter measures 1,251
metres, the depth 155 metres, and the diameter of the two eruptive
shafts 336 and 459 metres respectively. The spectacle presented
by this gigantic crater is simply stupendous.

In Count Gotzen's time, in 1894, Ninagongo was still in full
activity, evidences of which were observable up to the year 1906.
At the time of our visit the two shafts were perfectly quiet and
peaceful. The numerous clefts and fissures on the floor of the
crater, from which steam escaped, alone reminded one of the
volcanic powers slumbering in the depths below. These may
awaken to action any day, for, in Kirschstein's judgment, the
apparent calm of the mountain in no way justifies the assumption
that Ninagongo is to be counted amongst the extinct volcanoes.

The mountain is held by the natives to be " wasimu " (be-
witched), and their legend has it that any who ascend it must
perish. Only very few of the enlightened natives believe other-
wise. Our Kissubi preferred to avoid risking the anger of the
spirit of the mountain, and remained behind in camp. It was
only later, when Kirschstein made the ascent, that he reluctantly
decided to accompany him to the crater's edge. Yet Kirschstein
was still to experience how far justified were the honest fellow's
dread. He himself Avrites:

"... Anyhow, I have quite spoilt things with Kissubi. My
amiable Ninagongo companion, Dr. Breuer, of Usumbura, must
bear the blame, as it was he who inveigled me into firing off my
gun, as he did himself, to test the remarkable echoes. It was
in vain that Kissubi warned us that we would awaken the moun-
tain spirit's vengeance. We laughed at him and his mountain
goblins. A few weeks later I suffered the loss of half my
caravan whilst ascending Karissimbi in a snow-storm. That,
said my black carriers, was Ninagongo's vengeance. ..."

The echo of a shot fired breaks — as I have myself experienced
—a thousandfold against the rocks, and it appears as if the sound
were raging round and round the crater walls incessantly, unable
to discover a way out. No wonder, then, that the spirit of the
mountain waxes wrathful. His name is Congo. He is the chief

SLAG "CHIMNEY" IN A LAVA FIELD, SOUTH OF
NINAGONGO

BANANA LEAVES FOR CATCHING RAIN-WATER, NINAGONGO

IN THE VIRGIN BAMBOO FOREST

In the Volcanic Region n?

of all the spirits ; the souls of all the dead go to him, and he
allots them a permanent dwelling in the volcanoes. With Congo
live also the spirit Liangombe, his mother (Nina Liangombe), his
father (Bawinga), and his grandfather (Njundo). Liangombe
controls the souls of those who have wrought evil ; he binds them
and beats them. Namlagira and Mikeno are the sons of Congo.
Namlagira is said to have dwelt with his brother at first, but was
driven out by him because he carried fire along, and thereby
annihilated the water that existed on the mountain. Namlagira
is stated, also, to have been at deadly feud with his father,
Congo. For a long time an indecisive battle raged, but Nam-
lagira succeeded at length in cutting off Congo's head at one
blow, and that accounts for the flattened top of the mountain.
According to a communication made to me by Captain von
Beringe, from which I quote, every one of these spirits possesses
his own priest, who lives at the foot of the mountain, receives
the devotees, and communicates to them the spirit's will. The
captain was informed that the position of such a priest was a
very lucrative one.

We had hardly returned to camp when dusk fell, and heavy
rain set in. So we had to make the slippery descent on the
following morning with a temperature of only eight degrees.
The peaks of Karissimbi and Mikeno, however, rose up re-
splendent through the veil of mist that hung over the valley
and stood out in strong relief against the blood-red rays of the
rising sun, gleaming and glistening in the newly-fallen snow.

At the beginning of September, Raven, Wiese and I, who
had been joined by Grawert and Knecht, set out for the exten-
sive district lying in front of the southern volcanoes, which is
connected with them geologically.

On the next day, following a winding path, we reached the
bamboo forests. Roaming for the first time in these forests has
a peculiar charm of its own for a new-comer. These immense
grasses which throw up their stalks, as thick as one's arm, to a
height of seventeen metres, and which differ so utterly from our
own vegetation, create such a strange impression that, at first,

ii8 In the Heart of Africa

new to such phenomena, we hardly observed the discomforts
attending our march. We became aware of them before long,
however, and the charm we had at first experienced was soon
dispelled. The stalks are overgrown with long lanceolate
leaves almost from the roots, which thicken up so much
towards the top that the sun's rays can scarcely penetrate
them. The ground remains so moist and slippery, in con-
sequence, that travelling is rendered exceedingly arduous. In
fact, after heavy rain, it is hardly possible to clamber up
and down the steep slopes, the soil is so soaked and slippery.
The safest way of reaching the valley is to set about it
in the same way as the ski-runner does when rushing down
to the bottom of a slope. Supported at the back by a long
alpenstock, which may be cut from any neighbouring bamboo
bush, and with feet placed parallel to each other, you travel
down the mountain side, on what is at best a cattle-track, with
horrible celerity. Herds of long-horned Watussi cattle, with
their drovers, are constantly encountered in the forests, for the
young bamboo shoots form the main nourishment of the beasts.
They are either driven along daily from the neighbouring village,
to graze there, or they remain for months at a time in the depths
of the forest, in kraals specially constructed for the purpose.

After leaving the bamboo zone, on the 8th of September,
we met with a charming travelling companion in the person of
Rudolf Grauer, the Austrian explorer, with whom we were
destined to pass through many a joyful and sorrowful hour.
His name is familiar in connection with the earliest discovery
of the Ruwenzori chain of mountains. He had arrived at Bukoba
a few weeks before us with the intention of reaching Lake Kiwu
by a different route from the one we were intending to take. His
valuable collections, which were limited at first to ornithological
material, extended later to the mammals. In fact, he was
successful in securing twelve gorillas, which had been captured
by the natives in the marginal mountains of Lake Tanganjika.

As Grauer was also contemplating pitching camp, we marched
on a little further over the jagged, difficult lava which covered

LAVA CAVES

SENECIO, ERICACE/E, AND IMMORTELLES ON NINAGONGO

MOUNTAIN FOREST AT KAHAMA
HAGENIA IN THE FOREGROUND

In the Volcanic Region 119

the whole district, and encamped in the neighbourhood of Lake
Karago, in the province of Kahama.

The lava crust on which we were advancing originated from
the volcanic eruptions of comparatively earlier times, but is not
so old as to have fallen into complete disintegration, as it has
done in many other parts. Where this, however, has happened,
the ground has been rendered exceedingly fertile through the
formation of vegetable soil, and is most industriously cultivated
by the natives. Shamba after shamba are to be seen in unbroken
succession, on which bananas, negro millet (mtamd), sweet
potatoes, maize, peas and beans are grown. In Kahama one
could clearly discern the detached lava streams and the manner
in which they had once poured themselves devastatingly over the
land.

Spacious caverns formed under the crust of the lava streams,
and have remained to the present day. We searched around for
them, and crept into some of them so as to inspect the interiors.
The entrances mostly lie concealed under shrubbery, and it
occasionally takes a long time to find an opening. These caves
served the Wanjaruanda * not seldom as secret lurking-places.
Even as late as 1906 Captain von Grawert had arrows showered
upon him from the mouth of one of these caves whilst engaged
on a punitive expedition in those parts in consequence of
rebellious conduct. The hostile demeanour of the people has
now given way to one more peaceable, and since then these
cave formations have but rarely been used as entrenchments.

Having separated again from Grauer, who proceeded on his
way to Lake Kiwu, we crossed a few heights anfl made some
steep descents on our way to the old lava streams, which were
visible far away. The journey was, if possible, still more dim-
cult and disagreeable than that of the previous day, as the lava
had in parts congealed in a most serrated and jagged fashion.
The sharp edges and pointed ends were particularly disastrous
to the carriers. Their wounds had to be treated, and this delayed
the marching to such an extent that the caravan became quite

* Inhabitants of Ruanda.

120 In the Heart of Africa

broken up, and took seven hours to reach its destination, arriving
in a completely exhausted condition. The position of our haven
of rest, however, soon made us forget the discomforts of the
forenoon, for a few paces from where the tents were pitched
we discovered a mineral spring oozing in beautiful little bubbles
from the earth. Only those who, for months at a time, have
had to drink water of dubious character, which has to be boiled
or filtered daily, or who have manufactured a more than question-
able preparation with the aid of a gasogene, can form any idea
of our delight on finding this crystal-clear beverage. Everyone
flew to enjoy it, and we could hardly drink enough of it. At
first the " boys " and carriers regarded it with rather a sceptical
gaze, but after we had given it a trial they imitated our example
with avidity. ,

As the spring was situated a very little distance away from
the mission station of Ruasa we had the pleasure next day of
seeing Dr. Czekanowski, who had been working there for some
time and had learned of our arrival. He came by way of the
heights which bound the valley in the east, accompanied by
Brothers Dufays and Loupias. Soon afterwards Lieutenant
Knecht also came in and joined us for the further march to
Lakes Luhondo and Bolero.

We started next morning whilst it was still dusk, and as
the rim of the sun's orb peeped curiously over the edge of the
mountains we suddenly caught sight of the deeply indented
fiords of Lake Luhondo gleaming in the early light of dawn and
wrapped in a light fog.

Higher up to the north-east lies Lake Bolero united to its
sister lake by a splendid cascade which tumbles down with a
rushing fall over the steep mountain wall from a height of
over a hundred metres. The banks of both lakes are thickly
populated, and agriculture is diligently carried on in every
direction. We also saw once more a great number of banana
groves, a sight we had missed since leaving Kissenji.

The two lakes are of interest zoologically in the fact that
no fish at all exist in the upper of the two, and only barbel an

A ROUGH WAY OVER THE LAVA

LAKE BOLERO

THE MKUNGWA CASCADE

In the Volcanic Region

inch or so long can be found in the lower. On the other hand
clawed toads (Xenopus spec.} are uncommonly numerous in both
lakes ; they serve the people as food and are to be met with
in large quantities in all the huts, packed into baskets, alive
and dead. I found, too, a heap of wooden staves, about half
a metre in length, between which the toads were squeezed to
dry them, lying under one another, parallel, in twenties. Near
by I found a busy hive of snare-basket makers fashioning pots
for catching prawns. These little crayfish (a species of caridina)
are found in large numbers in the lower lake, and the lake-
dwellers have a great partiality for them. Lake Luhondo
abounds in reeds and rushes, and its surface is enlivened by a
large variety of ducks.

As we stayed there for several days we had some time to
devote to ethnographical study, and were able to supplement
our Ruanda collection very considerably.

The inhabitants on the borders of both lakes are of a
fractious disposition and give the Residency a good deal of
trouble. The Resident, therefore, has to keep a watchful eye on
this district, and has often been compelled to resort to energetic
measures in order to maintain the authority which it is imperative
to uphold.

The boats used on the lake are built very low, and are very
fragile, with practically no gunwale. Great care is therefore
necessary to retain the balance. Raven met with a very
unpleasant experience in this respect. Whilst shooting at a
duck he lost his equilibrium, and capsized with his gun,
cartridges and oarsmen. His rain-cloak, however, which was
made of "continental" balloon material, kept him afloat on
the water, and blew out like a bell. The rifle, which lay softly
embedded in the slimy bottom, was brought to light from the
watery depths with miraculous swiftness by the skilful diving
of his oarsmen.

Unfortunately Grawert took his leave of us here in order
to return to Usambura on receiving news of the illness of one
of his officers. It was with deep regret that we saw him depart.

122 In the Heart of Africa

The support he had afforded us, the solicitous care with which
he had smoothed our way, the circumspection with which he had
provided for our commissariat, had conduced in no small degree
to lighten our laborious task and to promote the success of our
expedition.

Soon after, we paid a visit to the mission station at Ruasa,
which impressed us as being very well cared for, cleanly kept
and tastefully laid out. We were received in a very friendly
manner and treated to such excellent dishes and beverages that
it needed some little effort to make our way back to the camp
along by the pretty falls of the Mkunga.

Knecht having returned to Kissenji, we turned to the north
with the purpose of fixing some settled quarters on the high-
lying saddle between the volcanoes of Sabinjo and Mgahinga.
We followed a long upward inclining road. The temperature,
which had been high at the start, sank gradually as we ascended.
Ever since noon a pelting rain had been pouring down, which
turned the path into a mountain torrent, and at the finish it
grew so cold that we were well-nigh frozen.

As we did not know where Weidemann — who had marched
here with reserve stores direct from Kissenji — had pitched his
camp, a patrol was despatched to search, and to advise us by
signal gun when the camp was sighted. The rest of us, when
we had reached the thickly wooded saddle, crowded together,
black and white alike, around a smouldering fire until the
appointed signal relieved our suspense. A further march of
half an hour brought us to our destination.

Weidemann had been encamped for two days in a forest
glade, and had already had the foresight to erect a protecting
banda (roofing) of bamboo, which proved of great service to
us, for during the following days the thermometer never
indicated more than 13 degrees Celsius, even at the warmest
hour of the day, and sank at night to one degree or even to
freezing point. In addition to this a cutting wind whistled
through the valley, chilling us to the marrow, and one night
even swept Wiese's tent away. We were at an elevation of 2,600

In the Volcanic Region 123

metres, and the white frosted meadows in the early morning
conjured up the vision of a German autumnal landscape. At
the evening meal we always appeared in thick coats and turned
up collars, and with steaming glasses of grog in our hands we
resembled a polar expedition rather than a party of African
travellers.

Among other zoological investigations the task which mostly
engaged our attention was to find and, if possible, to kill an
anthropomorphous ape. Up till then there had been only one
species of man-ape known to have been secured from the Kiwu
district, the one killed by Captain von Beringe on Sabinjo,
which the Berlin Zoological Museum pronounced a gorilla. It
was obvious, therefore, that the capturing of further specimens
would be of high scientific value in settling the question as to
whether still further species of the anthropomorphous ape existed
in that part.

The forests round us consisted mainly of bamboo, which
may be met with up to an altitude of 3,400 metres. The gorges
and ravines clothed with foliage and brushwood are the lurking
places in which that rare and much coveted wild creature, the
gorilla, makes his lair. It is an extremely difficult matter, and
occupies a great deal of time, to get to such spots, and entirely
excludes any other object from our expedition. We did not have
the good fortune to fall in with the desired prize although we
found droppings and fresh tracks.

Farther on we came across many elephant trails, up to
astonishing heights, and this fact gave reason to suppose that
we had struck a new species of genuine mountain elephants.
The natives confirmed our views, assuring us that the elephants
thereabouts always kept to the mountain slopes and never shifted
their quarters down to the plains. We tracked them to heights
of between 2,200 and 3,400 metres. On one excursion to the
Mgahinga crater we, in fact, espied five of the pachyderms
crossing a bare part of the forest below us. This troop
approached our camp in the evening in the full moonlight and
startled us at our meal. We heard the cracking of the bamboo

124 In the Heart of Africa

stalks getting gradually nearer, and expected every moment to
see the elephants appear in the clearing, but in vain. During
the night, however, one of them burst noisily past the camp not
a hundred paces away.

I determined to try my luck the next morning. Setting out,
clad in a thick hunting jacket, I found the grass again frosted,
and it required a very short search to locate the fresh tracks
of the elephants in the long meadow grass below the camp.

What contrasts life offers us! An elephant hunt on frozen
ground! My mind carried me back to a day, almost to the
exact time of the year, when I had hunted a fine rutting stag
amidst the September scenery of Hungarian mountains, accom-
panied by similar cold.

We now picked up the trail on the frosted, crackling meadow,
and it led us, without perceptibly rising, to the southern slope
of Mgahinga through a glorious leafy wood where the morning
sun's rays played on the tree tops, and the long drooping
creepers lost themselves in the underwood.

From a little distance away we heard the chewing of the
browsing beasts. The brushwood where the herd had passed
was trampled down in broad tracks. This served as a sure sign
that the elephants, who were still busy feeding, moved along
but slowly. We crept on now with hearts beating some-
what higher and with extreme caution, avoiding every thorn
and sprig and clambering noiselessly over broken boughs and
twigs. The elephants could scarcely have been fifty paces away
from us. Suddenly something crackled at my side, and step-
ping out from behind a bush I almost knocked up against an
elephant, but alas! going straight away from my gun. He
must have noticed something, for turning sharply round he fled.
My eye was soon searching for a good place to hit him and for
rear and fore-sight of my rifle, and as the colossus, with his
tremendous ears flapping, trotted across a small glade, I fired
a ball obliquely, just behind the ear. He fell without uttering
'a sound, and hurrying up I found that he was dead.

Whilst still lost in contemplation of the mighty creature,

WATERFALL BETWEEN LAKES BOLERO AND LUHONDO

ERECTING QUARTERS ON THE PLATEAU BETWEEN SABINJO AND MGAHINGA

In the Volcanic Region 125

I heard a sudden noise close behind me. All my followers
immediately fled behind the protecting bushes. I naturally
followed the new tembo (elephant) on the fresh trail. As,
however, he appeared to be rushing on ahead and I anticipated
a lengthy chase, I left the further pursuit to Weidemann, a
guide and an Askari. I then sent word to the camp for carriers
to come along and cut out the tusks and carry back the flesh of
the dead animal for our people. Then I turned back for my
prize, but, strange to tell, I could not find him. My " boy "
and a carrier searched in conjunction with me in vain for nearly
two hours, although it subsequently proved that several times we
were close to him. The similarity in the vegetation and the
many fresh tracks always led us round in a circle. Realising
the futility of this wandering I sat down on a fallen tree trunk
and was devouring my breakfast, when I heard eight shots fired
in quick succession in the direction of the last trail. It turned
out that Weidemann had come up with his elephant, which had
joined the herd, and had laid it low. It was a fine bull.

When the carriers arrived from the camp I set them skirmish-
ing in all directions, and so at last we contrived to find the spoil
for which we had been searching so long. Later on the skulls
of both the elephants were carefully prepared and found their
way to Germany, as well as a perfect hide. These trophies were
the first evidences of the elephant race in volcanic regions which
found their way to a German museum.

The bigger animal showed a height, measured from the back,
of 3.05 metres, a meagre measurement in comparison with the
powerful elephants of the plain who attain nearly four metres
in height. The comparatively powerful tusks, which were
2.05 metres long, and the worn grinders pointed to a fairly
good age and strengthened the view that smallness is a charac-
teristic of the mountain elephant.

Amongst other animals found at the foot of the volcanoes,
the lion is occasionally met. These, however, appear to be
specimens that have wandered from the Rutschuru plain.
Apparently, too, there are two species of leopards of different

126 In the Heart of Africa

sizes to be found. We caught one large specimen in a trap
and discovered it to be identical with the species discovered
by the Duke d'Abruzzi on Ruwenzori. Then there are wild
cats and different kinds of long-tailed monkeys, of which the
most common is the fine red and grey-green coloured Cercopithe-
kiis Kandti. We also found quite a new sort of bush-buck, one
of which I shot in a forest glade close to swampy ground.

The natives' talk ran a good deal on a beast of prey said
to be something midway between a lion and a leopard, and
which the people called "kimisi." Up till now no European
has sighted this creature: it would probably be some kind of
large-sized wild cat.

Whilst in the district, Lieutenant von Wiese, accompanied
only by an Askari and a native, achieved the distinction of
being the first European to climb Mount Sabinjo. It is probable
that no man had trodden the summit before, for Captain von
Beringe, who in 1903 reached to within 150 metres of the peak,
had to turn back owing to the steepness of the rock, whilst his
companion, Dr. Engeland, had stopped at an altitude of 3,150
metres on account of an attack of vertigo. It would never enter
the head of a native to undergo such a seemingly purposeless
fatigue, which, according to his faith, would serve only to draw
down the wrath of the mountain spirits. Kirschstein also
ascended Sabinjo later, right to the summit. On that occasion he
established the fact that the geological character of the mountain
had up to that time been entirely misunderstood.

" Sabinjo," writes Kirschstein, " is not, as reported by von
Beringe and Herrmann, the jagged remains of the wall of a
crater which has been torn up in the east and west, but rather
an old peak of trachytic-andesitic stone formation, deeply
eroded — a homogeneous lava cone. In contradistinction to the
stratified type of volcano, made up of overlying layers of ashes
and lava masses, like Ninagongo, with broad crater summits,
no loose volcanic matter plays any part in the creation of such
masses as Sabinjo. Sabinjo owes its existence solely to a con-
sistent flow of lava. The viscous fluid, a stony, yet paste-like

In the Volcanic Region 127

mass gushes out of the earth, and, flowing from the eruptive
funnel, cools and congeals into a cone-shaped, craterless lava
mountain. What Beringe and Herrmann doubtless took for
crater walls are the broad V-shaped clefts, ' barrancoes,' as
they are called, formed by erosion, which in the course of time
cut deep into the core of the volcano. The gnawed appearance
of the mountain has doubtless given it its name, for in the
Ruanda tongue ' Sabinjo ' simply means ' tooth.' "

After one more day's sojourn we bade good-bye to these cold
but beautiful mountain regions, and descended valleywards.
The lower we got the more noticeable became the heat, to which
we had now become unaccustomed. Then we had to get used
again to the heavy marching over the ragged lava, which caused
many a sigh. Generally speaking we followed the course of the
Mkunga, which flows later on into the Kagera, the chief river
of Lake Victoria. The march through this valley offered us
quite a pleasant change from the toils of the past week, and
the merry singing of the carriers showed that they fully ap-
preciated it. Well-cultivated plots covered the country round,
provisions were in abundance, and the demeanour of our
over-fatigued followers soon altered for the better. We could
hardly gaze enough at the glorious scenery. In the early morn-
ings and late in the evening, when the vapours and mists
floating down below us had dispersed, the peaks of the vol-
canoes, amongst them the snow-capped head of Karissimbi,
stood out clear and sent a farewell greeting through the valley
which lay shut in by the surrounding high mountain tops. The
only difficulties which we encountered, and which considerably
impeded our progress, were the number of marshy, boggy water-
courses which we continually had to cross, and in which the
animals sank knee deep.

We were not destined, however, to enjoy comfortable march-
ing in the level valley for long. We had arranged a rendezvous
at the Muhembe with the head of the Njundo Mission Station,
Father Superior Barthelemy, who was intimately acquainted
with the inhabitants and, in consequence of his long activity in

128 In the Heart of Africa

the land, had almost become their confidential friend. Bar-
th61emy desired to escort us to the little tribe of Batwa in the
Bugoie virgin forest. To accomplish this we had to traverse the
perfectly unknown territory of northern Tschingogo, which was
only indicated on the map by dotted lines in accordance with
general conjecture. We had to select one of the large printed
letters on the blank expanse shown on the map to mark our
proposed meeting place.

As the course of the little river Mtashe appeared to run
closely in the direction in question, we followed it up. This
meant climbing over the western mountain margins of the
valley. We came to a thickly populated, undulating hill
country covered with luxuriant fields. The presence of Juwanesc
and Cambojano, the Watussi chieftains lent us by Msinga,
inspired the inhabitants with confidence, so that we had no
trouble in connection with the commissariat. Marching at the
head of our caravan, their wide-ringing cries " masimano, masi-
mano, masimanoeee "* resounded in the hills and valleys, and
were immediately answered by larger or smaller troops of
natives who willingly brought along supplies.

Our calculations proved correct, for Mount Mhungo, where
we pitched our camp, was, as a matter of fact, only a matter of
two hours' distance from our comrade. On joining him we
marched on at once to the edge of the forest, the exploration
of which was the main task before us.

Anyone who is already acquainted with the flora of the
country can, with the help of field-glasses from an elevated
position, determine the character of the trees without any
difficulty. We could discern the giant bamboo, the Podocar-pus
usambarensis pilger, called " umuf u " or " musi " by the natives,
and the sapotad Sideroxylon Adolfi Friederict Engl., the
"mutoie " of the natives. The podocarpus shoots up its straight,
pillar-like stems to an immense height, particularly on the hill
ridges, with a crown of knotted branches of picturesque beauty,
* Masimano, bring food !

BATWA, BUGOIE FOREST

BATWA HUTS ON THE MARGIN OF THE BUGOIE FOREST

In the Volcanic Region 129

bearing narrow, pointed, leathery leaves. The colossal stems
of the mutoie are only seen on the valley slopes, reaching to
a circumference of some five metres. At a considerable height
they split into branches which bear a rich epiphite flora. The
tops are of a peculiar brownish colour as the leaves have a rusty
reddish felt-like surface. A stately specimen of this kind was
pointed out to us as the " sleeping tree " of the tschego or
chimpanzee. The most common tree is, perhaps, the Polyscias
•polybotrya Harms., belonging to the araliaceae, the " umungu " of
the natives. Then there are also Macaranga kilimands charted Pax
— " mlala " — belonging to the euphorbiaceae, and Cornus Volkensii
Harms.

The tiny Batwa tribe live in this mountain forest, small in
respect to physique, but not as regards their powers of propaga-
tion, for they populate the whole forest zone. In the territory
traversed by the expedition three different families of Batwa
became known to us. Besides those dwelling in the Bugoie
forest, a second on Kwidschwi, the largest island of Lake Kiwu,
and a third described by Dr. Czekanowski in the Ruwenzori
chain.

At first all the Batwa were looked upon as belonging to the
race of pygmies, but any general acceptance to this effect would
be an error. " Mutwa " in the singular, " Batwa " in the plural,
appear from Dr. Czekanowski's exact investigations to be the
common designations for small men.

Measurements taken by Raven and myself, and others taken
later by Czekanowski, of the Batwa in the Bugoie forest showed
an average height of 1.60 metres. Some attained a height of
1.70 metres. A people possessing such an average height cannot
therefore be esteemed pygmies. Czekanowski designates the
Batwa of the Bugoie forest simply small negroes. In his opinion
it is not exactly probable, though quite possible, that the ancestors
of the Batwa were pygmies, and that their development has been
influenced by intermarriage with the negro tribes. Reasoning
from impressions received in a general way, I am inclined to
support this theory, for the Bugoie tribe is entirely different from

130 In the Heart of Africa

the genuine pygmy. To anyone who knows both races, to confuse
them would be out of the question. The Batwa of Ruwenzori and
of Kwidschwi are entirely different from the Batwa of the Bugoie
territory. Czekanowski holds that the former are identical with
the true pygmies, and I would maintain that this opinion should
also apply to the Batwa of the island.

The Batwa of Ruwenzori and of Kwidschwi possess a height
of about 1.42 metres, which they share with the pygmies of the
Congo forest. Further, they show the typical distinctive marks
of true dwarfs — the round head, the peculiar, penetrating, and
unusually large eyes, and the very broad root of the nose —
which betray to the expert their membership of the dwarf
families.

The pygmies of the primeval forest differ from those of
Kwidschwi only in the colour of their skin. Whilst the former
are exceedingly light in colour, the Kiwu dwarfs have the dark
complexion of the negro. Their complexions, however, may
possibly be influenced by their different habits of life. The
natives of Kwidschwi expose themselves a great deal more to the
sun than their fellow-tribesmen of the Aruwimi and Uelle basins,
who never leave the darkness of their native forest, and are
therefore fairer in complexion.

The Ruwenzori Batwa, says Czekanowski, as also the pygmies
of the Uelle and Ituri basins, speak the Balese language, and
maintain that they possess none other. The Batwa of the Bugoie
forest are conversant with the language of the Wanjaruanda.

The weapons of the latter race, which chiefly interests us at
present, consist mainly of spears. They also use bows and
arrows, the bow-strings being frequently made from the filament
of the rotang palm. Like the pygmies, the Batwa exist almost
exclusively by hunting and plundering caravans, and do not
cultivate the soil. They claim to be very brave hunters, and to
be able to spear without fail the buffaloes that lie in the bush
after they have been stalked to within a few paces. They
appeared to consider it a very impressive pose, just before we crept
up to one of the very numerous buffalo herds, to plant one foot

MUTWA WOMAN MARANGARA

BATWA OF THE BUGOIE FOREST

In the Volcanic Region is1

forward and shake their lance, which they hold pressed against
the ground to test its elasticity. The nearer we approached to
the buffalo, however, the lower sank their courage ; and as soon
as the herd — invisible even at a few paces distant, on account of
the dense undergrowth — began to move, and the cane cracked all
around us, the brave fellows vanished instantly out of sight and
hearing. Some sought cover in the bushes, others bounded up
aloft with the greatest agility, seized hold of a couple of bamboo
stalks, and swung in the air with legs extended, graciously
permitting the attacking buffaloes an easy passage below them.

The skill and celerity with which the Batwa can wind their
way through thicket and creepers are amazing, and it is an exceed-
ingly fatiguing task to attempt to follow them along elephant
tracks and to the haunts of the buffalo. Their apparel — if it can
be called such — a simple apron of beaten fibrous bark, offers no
hold to the thorns, as the clothing of the European so constantly
does. They are invincible opponents in the forest, their real
home. Whilst marching out a little distance from the forest
zone one day searching for fresh camping quarters, the Batwa
suddenly declared that they could no longer follow us. No
sooner said than done ; they disappeared back into the forest,
and we saw them no more till we again pitched our camp in the
forest.

The chief leaders of the two tribes with whom we came into
contact were Sebulese and Gunsu. On Raven's first visit the
former had shown himself friendly, but Gunsu would not allow
himself to be talked over even by Barthelemy. Gunsu had the
reputation of being an exceedingly adroit caravan robber, and
his people in consequence spoke of him in terms of great respect.
A successful raid which he had carried out shortly before seemed
to burden his conscience, and the mistrustful old fellow no doubt
connected our visit with it. So we caused a message to be
shouted through the forest that no harm should come to him, that
we desired only to shoot buffaloes, and that their meat should be
the spoil of him and his people. With the design of fathoming
our intentions, he sent along his son into our camp, and his report

132 In the Heart of Africa

concerning us must have been favourable, for one day he put in
an appearance himself, and thus for the first time came into close
contact with white men.

The Batwa are anything but agreeable to associate with.
Their indolence is sufficient to make anyone despair. Whilst
later on the pygmies of the Congo forest were ready to act as
guides at the slightest nod, the greatest exertion and sometimes
forcible methods were necessary to get the Batwa away from their
cooking-pots every morning. Contrary to the pygmies' custom,
they never camped with our carriers, but built themselves huts at
a little distance off.

The body measurements which Raven and I took were
obtained with the greatest difficulty. The superstitious people
almost trembled with fear when we fitted up our burnished
measuring instruments. I believe that Barthelemy's presence
alone prevented them from flight. The poor fellows almost
thought they must die. "You won't die at all," intimated Bar-
thelemy to them ; " just come along." Then to prove the truth
of his words I allowed myself to be measured by Raven. Seeing
that I survived the ordeal, they appeared to grow more composed,
yet I was not able completely to allay their mistrust.

The Batwa sat round resignedly. None of them came will-
ingly, but every one had to be led singly by the arm to the
" slaughtering " bench, the chest on which the measuring took
place. At length came the turn of Gunsu's son. The poor fellow
suffered tortures. He hesitated, but at last he stepped forward
resolutely, and sat down on the chest with the words: "Well,
then, it's all one if needs be that I die to-day ! " But what a
marvel ! After the measuring was over, he stepped back safe
and sound to his place. . . . So it was obvious that measur-
ing was not fatal, but there must be something else. What are
the wasungu (whites) writing down there ? And what was one
of them continually muttering, and what was his neighbour
answering ? Did the spell lie in that ? Because it was quite clear
that there must be some spell. Yes, it was certain that their lives
were forfeit, and lay sealed in the white men's books and at

In the Volcanic Region 133

their sovereign will and pleasure. This view obtained credence
more and more, and took such firm root in their minds at last that
I feared that they offered up sacrifices of atonement to their
deities for weeks after, so that they might be freed from the
spell. This mad idea subsequently caused Czekanowski a great
many difficulties when a special sociological investigation was
undertaken.

Before closing these remarks on the Batwa I would like to
mention a few of their names, which sound curious when trans-
lated. These are some of the meanings attached to them as
Barthelemy told me : " Gunsu," for instance, is the name given to
a species of jackal ; " Sebulese " means foster-father ; " Semisse,"
f ather-of-the-liane ; "Luhango" means that he-is-born-from-the-
river ; "Bigirimana," he-is-with-the-deity ; " Bitahungo " — a son
of Gunsu — means I-do-not-flee ; and " Semabi " — another of
Gunsu's sons — his-f ather-is-dirt !

As already mentioned, amongst the larger mammals of the
Bugoie forest besides the elephants there are buffaloes, the western
variety with small horns lying back, which Schubotz also came
across in the Rugege forest south of Lake Kiwu. Only Raven
was successful in killing' a specimen. Although I came within a
few paces of them at least ten times, without however seeing a
hair of them, I only once managed to get in a shot. In spite of
a lengthy pursuit, I had to give up the chase. All further
attempts failed, although we scoured the neighbourhood from six
to eight hours daily for a fortnight. These excursions, at the
heels of the nimble Batwa guides, over summits of some 2,500
metres in height, over slippery ground and through the difficult
underwood, were about the most exhausting of our efforts during
the whole expedition. Twice I had to take in a hole in my belt,
which, as a rule, was fairly tight.

The Batwa knew the favourite haunts of the beasts, or gener-
ally found them very quickly, and watching scouts informed each
other loudly through the forest of the buffaloes' exact location,
without in the least appearing to disturb them. A favourite way
that the Batwa have of capturing these animals is to trap them.

134 In the Heart of Africa

Great wooden frame structures weighted with stones are set up
at a spot where the buffaloes go to drink, in such a way that when
the buffalo touches the water a piece of wood is loosened, and the
trap falls over and kills him. This method appears to be very
successful.

I would like to mention one perilous adventure with a " moun-
tain elephant," the killing of which would have formed such an
important zoological specimen to our collection of the district.

It was the 4th of October. Raven and I heard the trampling
of elephants in a marshy meadow through which a small river
ran, and we quickly followed. The wind was unfavourable to
us, and so it was not possible to avoid detection. Suddenly,
trumpeting was heard, and the elephants broke away. The
immediate crackling of canes all around apprised me that I was
in the centre of the herd. Then all at once, twenty paces off, I
perceived the grey back of one of the animals. In spite of its
closeness it was useless for me to shoot until I was able to
distinguish clearly the vulnerable part of the head, denoted by
the upper half of the ear. Immediately I could do this I took
aim, but being under the impression that the fatal point for the
bullet was situated deeper, I lowered the muzzle of my gun a
little and let drive. The elephant swung round like lightning,
splintering the bamboo with his head, and made for me. As the
dense brushwood obscured the view, I jumped aside, crashing
through the cane into the shrub whilst the beast rushed past.
The troop of elephants, some of which had been behind me, were
attracted by the shot, and circled round me trumpeting. The
whole forest was in an uproar, and I saw bulky grey masses rising
up all round me. Shooting was not to be thought of, for it was
impossible to distinguish particular parts of the monsters'
anatomy whilst they were thus waltzing round. The turmoil
approached in my direction, and evidently the whole herd was
close at hand. The ensuing moments have no place in the agree-
able reminiscences of my travels ! A young animal with bad
tusks, and not worth shooting, came right up to my position,
remained standing five paces in front of me, and then passed me

AT THE NJUNDO MISSION STATION

BUFFALO TRAPS IN THE BUGOIE FOREST

In the Volcanic Region 135

so closely that I could have touched him by stretching out my
arm. Suddenly he caught the scent, and tore away trumpeting,
taking the others along with him, and the whole herd rushed
madly past.

Wiese had in the meantime gone back to Kissenji on urgent
business, and letters called for my return there also. So we
shifted our camp in the direction of Kissenji, into the domain
of the chieftain Chuma.

The motive that led us just there was principally the assertion
of the Batwa that it was the haunt of the impundu, the name by
which the gorilla was known at Mgahinga. The truth of this
peculiar story had, of course, to be tested. It was important to
determine whether the impundu was another form of gorilla, or
whether it was another breed of the anthropomorphous ape. I
may state straightaway that the latter was the case, and it
proved to be a large kind of chimpanzee, the tschego. So the
name impundu served for both.

We found by observation that the impundu, gorillas as well as
tschegos, haunted the margins of the upper forest. At Mgahinga
we found fresh droppings, and trails on the margin of the
bamboo and upper forest boundaries, though in the interior we
never observed any signs of their existence.

Little is known so far as to the habits of the tschego. We
were able to verify with certainty its custom of using trees for
a sleeping place at night, and that the favourites were the lofty
podocarpus — the umufu and the mutoie — which are free from
branches up to the crown, obviously because they afford an exten-
sive view and also the greatest safety. In the morning the
tschegos, who live in families of five to eight, leave their sleeping-
trees somewhere between seven and nine o'clock, letting themselves
down to the ground with the greatest nimbleness, to feed on
young bamboo shoots. The tschego is not exactly fastidious in
his food. The Batwa told us that he is fond of leaves, fruit-
skins, blossoms, and tender tree-shoots, though as far as my own
observation went, he confined himself to the sapotaceae (mutoie).

In the Heart of Africa

The individual families have a particular range, or parish,
which they are unwilling to leave. Early at sunrise, and in the
evening when dusk is approaching, their clamour is heard far
away, setting in faintly but swelling gradually and terminating
in shrill screechings, which last only a few moments. This is
repeated at irregular intervals, and the Batwa attribute the
outcries to dissensions and quarrels amongst the " family." Such
moments are opportune for the hunter to step in and attempt to
get close to them.

A broad, deep ravine yawned immediately below our camp, at
the bottom of which rushed a spring, which separated us from the
mountain slope opposite, and from which we used to hear most of
the screeching apes.

An attempt made by me one evening by failing light to stalk
up close to a sleeping-tree I had to abandon as impracticable, as
the almost impenetrable brushwood could only be crawled through
on hands and knees, and this took so long that darkness set in.
So I had to wait until the morrow.

Next morning before daybreak the three of us sat ready
outside our tents, each with our guide, awaiting the first screech-
ings of the creatures. I had picked out a Mutwa as my only
companion. He had raised difficulties at first, for, unfortunately,
it was just the impundu that the Batwa had selected for their
umuzimu or totem. However, on my representing to him that he
would take no part himself in the killing, but that that would be
entirely my own business, and that all he had to do was to lead
me to the right spot, he eventually agreed to be my assistant.

It now grew gradually lighter. Certain parts of the forest
gorge began to be visible through the breaking dawn, but dead
silence still prevailed everywhere. Soon the first call of a waking
bird could be heard here and there. Then, at last, when the
glorious red of the morning sky heralded the rising of the sun, a
flight of grey parrots flung themselves with a stiff flapping of
wings shrieking on to the branches of a neighbouring tree. As
by a stroke of magic, everything grew alive all round us. The
birds began to chirp and twitter louder and louder with the

IN THE FOREST REGION OF MIKENO

VISIT OF THE BELGIAN OFFICERS (IN DARK UNIFORMS) TO KISSENJI

In the Volcanic Region 137

coming day, and as the first rays of the sun threw bands of light
through the tree tops, the sounds we were waiting for so eagerly
were heard coming faintly across the gorge, and we could see the
resting place of the game we were coveting.

Our council of war was soon over. Raven on the left in case
the impundu should break out on that side, the Father Superior
on the right, and I in the centre. The forest soon swallowed us
up, and then the fun began.

The small, supple body of the Mutwa slipped through the
incredible maze of creepers, bamboos, and thorns with admirable
dexterity, whilst the European in his clothes had to maintain a
steady battle with the thorns, which continually impeded his
progress. A well-meant suggestion on the part of my Mutwa
that I should divest myself of my clothes and hunt in his own
costume did not appeal to me, as I had some personal regard for
my skin. Having reached the bottom of the hollow and crossed
the stream, we started climbing the slope, so as to reach the spot
before the apes left the tree from which we had again heard their
screaming, a sound which impresses itself indelibly upon the
memory. Once they got to the ground they would be lost so far
as we were concerned.

If it had been difficult to get down, we found it almost
impossible to climb up again. Our hands were covered with rents
and scratches, our bodies were dripping with perspiration, when
at last our arrival at an old elephant haunt brought some relief.
It was now past seven o'clock, and we calculated that we must be
close up to the tree in question. It was impossible to see through
the dense brushwood.

My guide stood still listening, with his head bent forward
and his eyes on the ground. Then slowly raising his arm and
pointing upward with his fist — to do so with a finger spelt bad
luck — he whispered : " Wanakula " (" they are feeding "). So thus
far all was well. We crept on further with the very greatest care,
anxiously putting aside every twig and dried leaf with our
hands. A quarter of an hour elapsed. Once again we stopped
and listened. Not a sound was to be heard. Our prospects

138 In the Heart of Africa

grew worse as the sun rose gradually higher. Undecided whither
exactly we should turn next, we slunk along further for a few
steps when suddenly the screeching burst out again in our imme-
diate vicinity almost right over our heads. We used the noise as
a cover, and rapidly advanced a little further till a wall of
thorns, through which it was impossible to work without making
some noise, arrested our progress. The slightest sound now would
have been fatal, so with knees raised and on the tips of our toes
we moved a little sideways. It was labour lost ! No sight of our
quarry to be obtained from any point ; a mere confusion of
foliage above and all around us. The situation was critical ; for
at any moment the chimpanzees might leave their tree. Finally, I
reached a spot where there was a slight break in the leafy roof,
and through this aperture I perceived an immense ape standing
on the bough of a lofty mutoie, perhaps sixty metres up. In a
flash my rifle was at my shoulder, and the noise of the shot rattled
and reverberated through the forest with resounding echoes. A
heavy fall and wild bellowing followed. At the same moment I
caught sight of a second ape, apparently younger, through the
circle of the small aperture, and the dull thud of the bullet
convinced me that I had hit again. We now worked along as
rapidly as we could manage it to the trunk of the tree, to which a
fresh track of blood guided us until it was lost again in the
shrubs. Here we heard the chimpanzee, evidently badly injured,
fleeing down the slope amongst the rustling foliage only a few
paces in front of us. But to catch up with an ape, even a
wounded one, in a forest thicket is a hopeless task for any
European. So I soon gave up the chase. At the sound of my
firing, however, a few of my people who had followed up behind
now came up with me. The promise of a large baksheesh spurred
them on to renewed efforts. Without a moment's consideration
they glided down after the game, following the trail. A few
anxious moments of breathless suspense followed, and then I
heard faint, subdued cries, which filled me with an indescribable
feeling of satisfaction. The old fellow, who was badly hurt,
had stood up against my people down in the gorge, and they had

In the Volcanic Region 139

finished him with a spear thrust. As the men declared they could
not carry up the heavy booty alone, I returned to the camp and
despatched an Askari with a few carriers to their help. Two
hours later the slain quarry was brought in triumphantly hanging
on stout bamboo poles. In spite of strongly marked blood-
tracks the younger chimpanzee could not be overtaken.

The next day brought a piece of hunters' luck to the Father
Superior. After further and similar exertions he succeeded in
reaching another sleeping-tree, from which he shot down a young
chimpanzee. As he rapidly approached the dying creature the
bush became animated, and, fifteen paces off, there appeared the
head and gnashing teeth of a little old male (they often accom-
pany the families at a distance, but keep to themselves), who
seemed not indisposed to attack him. But receiving a bullet in
the breast, he also succumbed in a few minutes. In spite of all
this, however, the troop did not abandon the field, and the
agitated trees and bamboo proved the proximity of the furious
animals for a considerable time afterwards.

The skin of the old one was covered with greyish-yellow
hair ; the hands and feet, like those of my specimen, were a deep
black, while the younger animal had a far lesser length of body,
with deep black hair and yellow face and hands.

Thus our arduous time in the Bugoie forest was eventually
crowned with some measure of success, and brought us the
solution of some few zoological problems. I had at least the
good luck to be the first European to capture specimens of a
hitherto unknown race of man-apes and to observe their habits.

Our task here was now completed, and our stay was soon
brought to an end. We descended into the valley of the Sebeja,
bade farewell to Barthelemy at Njundo, and, accompanied by
Czekanowski, who met us here as agreed upon, we arrived on
the evening of the nth of October at Kissenji. The place had
been gaily decorated in honour of my birthday, which was the
day before our arrival, and at the entrance to the town we were
met by Knecht, Grauer, and the other members of the expedition.
For the purpose of holding serious council together, I had begged

140 In the Heart of Africa

the various members of the expedition to interrupt their labours
for a little while and to meet together at Kissenji.

In the meantime Derche, the Belgian commandant of the
Russisi-Kiwu territory, which we should have to traverse after
leaving our protectorate, had arrived at Ngoma with his staff,
and came over to Kissenji to greet us. His visit gave a welcome
opportunity of discussing a number of pertinent questions, as
we were about to cross into the Congo State.

The days which now followed were very strenuous, for in
consequence of the various separate journeys to Lake Lukondo-
Bolero, to Bugoie, to the Rugege forest, and to the larger islands
of Lake Kiwu, and also to northern Kiwu, a considerable collec-
tion of ethnographical, zoological, botanical, geological and
topographical material had amassed at Kissenji. All this had
to be sorted out and duly labelled, so that it could be despatched
without delay to Europe. Further, a large number of photo-
graphic plates had to be developed so as to test the reliability
of the apparatus, which had suffered a good deal from exposure
and damp within the last few weeks. For this purpose we erected
a dark-room of bamboo, so heavily thatched with grass that no
ray of light could pierce through, even when the sun was at its
brightest.

Added to all this work, there was a huge mail to be got
ready and despatched to Europe. As a matter of fact, we
only met together at the common meals in the officers' mess.
Weiss started away again on the i8th of October to continue
the interrupted topography of the volcanic region. On the
2 ist a caravan comprising seventy loads of scientific material
was sent off under the leadership of two Askari to Bukoba, to
be forwarded thence to Berlin and Leipzig. Before we departed
we duly celebrated the birthday of Her Majesty the Empress.
I gave an address to the Askari and the population of Kissenji
and ordered a march past of the troops. A few days later we
set out for the Congo State territory.

Keeping to our principle of divided marching, it was arranged
that Schubotz and Mildbraed should first visit Bugoie, and then

In the Volcanic Region

undertake a searching zoological and botanical investigation of
the whole volcanic chain. After paying a visit to the Batwa,
Czekanowski was to follow our route via Busuenda.

Kirschstein's special work was also now commencing. Wiese,
Raven, Grauer and I wished to accompany him in the ascent
of Mikeno and Namlagira, to proceed later to the Belgian station
of Rutschuru, and then on to Lake Albert Edward. We hoped
to establish friendly relations there with the Belgian officers,
and thereby smooth the way for those following us. Our meet-
ing point later on was settled for Kasindi, at the northern end
of Lake Albert Edward, on Christmas Eve.

It was a curious coincidence that a few days earlier Lieu-
tenant Knecht, the meritorious chief of the Kissenji station,
should have received his recall home. His relief had already
arrived in the person of Lieutenant Keil. So we had a general
leave-taking at the border of the Kissenji district, everyone
wishing everyone else a prosperous journey and happy return
home.

At the top of the pass we turned and sent a farewell greet-
ing to this ideally situated spot of German territory where we
had spent so many memorable hours, and then marched forward
into the Congo State.

Wiese, Raven, Kirschstein, Grauer and I, as well as Weide-
mann and Czeczatka, to whom the supervision of the caravans
at the camp was made over during our excursion on Mikeno and
Namlagira, pitched our tents at Burunga, a " permanent " Belgian
post at the foot of Mikeno, a halting-place on the great Uvira-
Bobandana-Rutschuru road. These Belgian ttappes are most
comfortably organised. There are thatched roofs resting on
four corner posts under which the tents may be set up. They
afford coolness in great heat and form a perfect cover in a
downpour of rain. At one end of the quarters there is an
elevated banda for meals, the position being so chosen that a
splendid view may be enjoyed. There is even a tariff-table of
food and beverages, which may be obtained from the camp-

142 In the Heart of Africa

orderly. As a matter of fact, these consist mainly of mutton,
goat-flesh, poultry, milk, eggs, sweet potatoes, tomatoes,
mangoes and papaya.

As the rain was coming down in torrents the ascent of
Mikeno promised to be very difficult in consequence of the
slippery state of the ground. So we decided to take only the
most absolute necessities with us, and thus limit the escorting
caravan as far as we possibly could. However, we took reserve
carriers with us to relieve the bearers of the heavy tent loads.

Kirschstein declared Mikeno, like Sabinjo, to be a volcanic
mass consisting essentially of lava discharges pouring one over
the other. Captain Herrmann's declared supposition that
Mikeno was possibly the remainder of an imposing crater wall
is therefore hardly confirmed.

Early on the morning of the 6th of October our party was
pushing its way towards the small, circular, marshy plain
which lies at the foot of Mikeno. A narrow path leads for
some distance thence up the mountain slope. This path, which
had been made by the missionaries of Njundo when attempting
the ascent, at least indicated the way for us, although it was
scarcely recognisable, and bearing this in mind Barthelemy had
given us his former guide for a help. The latter, however, lost
his way quite at the start and it was a considerable time before
he became aware of the fact. We were forced, therefore, to
retrace our steps downward from the height we had so laboriously
climbed, until we regained the marshy plain. After a little
while we struck the proper road.

At first we passed through bamboo, but this soon gave way to
a lighter tree zone. The road was very steep, and the innumer-
able roots that covered the slippery path hindered us so that
we progressed but slowly. Stops were rendered constantly
necessary. After ascending for some hours we reached a height
of 3,000 metres, and by that time the carriers were utterly ex-
hausted and we had to camp. There was not a single spot
where a tent could stand, for the mountain side showed an
incline of thirty degrees all round. Further progress was out

BREAKFAST ON MIKENO (AT A HEIGHT OF 3,700 METRES)

BLOCK LAVA BETWEEN NAMLAGIRA AND NINAGONGO

In the Volcanic Region 143

of the question ; a remedy had to be found somehow. There
was nothing for it but to dig out a rough terrace and build some
kind of platform for the tents. This we did, but it must be
confessed that they stood quite crooked and unsteady, and it
required some art to keep one's equilibrium, or even, in fact, to
sleep in them, for the bedsteads glided down the slanting
surface, and in the morning several of our company found them-
selves in quite different places from where they had been when
they laid down to rest.

Next morning a new difficulty arose. There was no water.
We sent out a scouting party, but it returned at noonday having
met with no success. As, however, water was an absolute
necessity for the carriers, and as it was certain that conditions
would not improve as we got nearer the summit, we had no
other choice but to conclude the day as inactively as we had
commenced it. We remained in camp and sent all the carriers
back with their calabashes to the watercourse at the foot of the
mountain, so as to establish a kind of depot in case we did not
find any water on our way to the summit. The carriers set off
discontentedly on their toilsome descent, and it was growing
dusk before they returned with their filled vessels.

From our camp we had a splendid view of Ninagongo, whose
peak rose up imposingly from a sea of cloud. Down below, the
cloud masses, driven by the air currents, chased over the plain.
Above these the outlines of the mountains stood out sharply
defined in the rays, of the sinking sun, which bathed the sur-
rounding scenery in most wonderful tones of colour, almost like
the northern lights. I sadly regretted the absence of a painter
in our party, for the scene would have formed a subject worthy
of an artist's greatest skill.

The air grew icy cold as night fell. A violent breeze sprang
up and gave our unprotected tents such a shaking that Grauer,
for one, capsized with his bed whilst reposing in his " Tower of
Pisa "-like tent. The poor fellow crept out of the entrance
shivering with cold and calling for assistance. Dense layers
of fog crept across the mountain slope and swept over our heads.

1 44 In the Heart of Africa

This continued during the early morning, so that we could
see but little in ascending. A trifle higher up the air grew
clearer and at moments we obtained through the driving clouds
glimpses of the rugged rocks at the summit.

The vegetation also changed. The forest region ceased.
Tall bushes of heath appeared with thick branched boughs and
gnarled trees five metres high. Long beard-mosses, typical
features of the Alpine world, hung down from the branches.

We advanced higher up on the south-east edge of the abyss
and the way grew steeper. The thick carpet of moss covering
the ground yielded to our steps, causing some of the carriers
to slip and fall, and here and there a heavy load went rolling
down into the depths till it stuck on some projection or hung
on a heath bush. It was necessary, on reaching an elevation of
3,700 metres, to take another lengthy halt for the sake of the
fatigued carriers.

As the caravan was impeding our ascent Wiese remained
behind to control it, whilst we hastened forward. The incline
was so steep at times that we had to use our hands in climbing.

After a time we caught sight of an extended narrow ridge
which looked a likely place for camping. The whole of the
vegetation at this point bore quite a decided Alpine character.
The slopes were covered with a broad belt of Senecio Johnstonii,
and tall lobelias, mingled with immortelles, extended to the
almost perpendicular rocks of the summit, which stretched up
another four hundred metres in front of us. The sun emerged
from the clouds and diffused a comforting warmth for a few
short moments, whilst our eyes roved enchanted over the glorious
prospect, which included two-thirds of Lake Kiwu.

Our patience was severely taxed whilst waiting for the
caravan, which arrived late in the afternoon, everyone being
thoroughly exhausted. The ridge on which we were forced to
camp was hollowed out by atmospheric influences, and it was
so narrow that the edges of the tents reached beyond it and
it was hardly possible to fix the pegs. The soft ground, more-
over, offered insufficient security. So it was with troubled and

In the Volcanic Region H5

anxious gaze that we viewed the black cloud-banks on the
horizon which foretold bad weather during the night. Our
fears proved well-formed. The weather changed very quickly.
Mist rose and enveloped the camp, and as darkness fell our
thermometer sank to one degree Celsius. Howling gusts of
wind, which rose to a furious gale during the night and pitilessly
pierced the flimsy sides of the tents, swept full over the ridge.
Everyone who owned a thick suit put it on: no one thought of
sleep. Wrapped round with blankets we listened to the raging
of the storm, expecting our tents to collapse every moment. At
midnight Grauer's flew away ; being the largest it offered the
greatest surface of resistance to the wind. The others remained
standing, it is true, but the pegs worked loose, the awnings
were soon flapping about in the wind, and there was a general
shouting for " boys " to go and fasten them. The wind in-
creased steadily all the time. Towards morning the heavy
clouds emptied themselves in violent showers of hail which
rattled down upon the roofs of the tents, and covered every-
thing around with a white mantle.

The morning dawned on a wintry scene. Our tents and
the whole region around us were covered with snow. Otherwise
the situation remained unchanged : impenetrable fog, wind and
cold, with the thermometer, indicating the same temperature as
the evening before. An ascent of the peak under such condi-
tions could not be entertained for a moment, as there was no
path of any kind and it was impossible to find our bearings
in a heavy mist which prevented our seeing farther than twenty
metres before us. As there was nothing to be done, we con-
gregated in Grauer's " salon " by the dim light of a lamp,
closed in the tent against the cold, and played " nap." Now
and again a stiff glass of grog served to keep up our spirits.
Thus we hung on for more favourable weather, and this came
towards three o'clock in the afternoon. The fog dispersed and
the summit was clear again.

Wiese, Grauer and I prepared to ascend at once. First we

had to pass through the senecio forest, which is very difficult to
T

146 In the Heart of Africa

negotiate as the moss-covered ground and the vegetation are
always dripping wet. The shrubs attain a height of three
metres, and their branches close in together so thickly that it
is difficult to see the sky. Thus the ground hardly ever
thoroughly dries up. We met with a good many more or less
deep gullies, along the bottom of which ice-cold streams flowed,
and these we had to scramble through. Whoever tried to gain
a hold by catching on to the senecio bushes, pulled them out
and began to slip, which was all the more unpleasant as the
moss beds on the sloping surfaces would not bear a man's
weight. It took us two full hours to reach the rocks at the
peak although we had believed them to be quite close at hand.

On the top we found a deep chasm which led down into the
rocks. We followed this, going over shingle till we struck hard
frozen snow. This was rather too much for our " boys." They
tiptoed over the cold subsoil uttering the most singular sounds.
Finally, they sat down, crowded closely together, on a mass
of rock and " would have nothing more to do with it."

All around us there rose steep smooth walls of rock. It
was soon evident, therefore, that an ascent to the summit was
out of the question unless we had mountaineering outfits, or
made a careful investigation of the northern side. To accom-
plish this object we would have been compelled to stay up in
that frosty region several days longer, and for this we were
not adequately equipped. We had no rope of sufficient length
to make such an ascent possible. In addition we were unable
to light any fire in our kitchen, everything being in a soaked
condition. Our followers were almost frozen and so pinched
with the cold that they could hardly move their numbed fingers.
In Kirschstein's judgment nothing of geological importance
would be gained by the ascent, and from a sporting point of
view we were not justified in endangering the health of our
carriers. We therefore resolved to remain in camp till the next
morning, to see if we could essay the climb in clearer weather.
If it proved to be foggy we intended to set out on the return
march.

In the Volcanic Region 147

It was high time to return as hastily as possible from the
snowfield to camp, as thick layers of fog were beginning to
rise up from the valley. So on a jutting mass of rock we care-
fully laid down a preserved meat tin containing our names as a
record that, so far, this was the highest point on Mikeno which
human foot had ever trod. On getting down we were again
enveloped in fog, and it was with some difficulty that we suc-
ceeded in groping our way back to camp. Our frugal evening
meal consisted of a few boxes of herrings and a tin of fruit.
The night corresponded to the preceding one. The wind
heightened to a gale, and shook our tents, and the pegs kept
loosening. When morning drew nearvthe mountains were again
covered with a white cloak, and the fog had grown denser.
The loads were strapped up and ^ we began the descent to
Burunga. The faces of our sorely-tried carriers lightened up,
and they even attempted to strike up a song with their weak
throats. Soberly we set out for the camping place lying deeper
below, hurrying ahead of the caravan. Arrived there we made a
light meal and gave the carriers a rest, and in the afternoon
we were back in Burunga once more. The carriers came in
singly and at long intervals, completely exhausted. Some even
remained to rest on their way and did not reach Burunga until
night. By a judicious distribution of extra baksheesh they were,
however, soon restored to good humour.

On the first of November we set about making the ascent
of Namlagira, whose eruptions have ceased of late, but from
whose broad crater at that time we daily saw the vaporous clouds
ascending.

Namlagira is separated from Burunga, as also from Nina-
gongo, by an extensive lava field which evidently emanates from
the subsidiary craters on its southern slopes. The lava strata
lie over one another about a foot in thickness, and pile them-
selves like ice-floes at a river's mouth. These had to be clam-
bered over, and where broad fissures appeared long alpenstocks
had to be used to leap the yawning clefts. These lava drifts
are interspersed with jagged points of block lava. The latter

148 In the Heart of Africa

are very brittle and porous in nature, offer very little foothold,
and cause a good deal of sliding and stumbling. The edges
are as sharp as knives, and cut and tear one's boots and clothes
in a terrible fashion.

The entire lava field is grown over with a species of lichen
which has a whitish appearance in the sunlight, and gives the
exact impression of an immense ice-field or glacier, an impression
which the use of long alpenstocks rendered still more realistic.
It naturally followed that in surmounting the obstacles of this
difficult journey everyone had to find a path for himself, and
before long we were so widely separated from one another that
recognition of the individual khaki-coated figures popping up
and down among the lava blocks was only possible by the aid
of a telescope. As I had good going I arrived first at the
southern slope of the mountain. At this spot a chain of eighteen
parasitic cinder craters rise up like pearls on a chain, in a
crevasse running from north-west to south-east. The lowest of
them opens out in a wide semicircle to the south-east, and the
spot where the lava stream makes its egress can be distinctly
seen. A second one, apparently of more recent date, higher
up the slope of Namlagira, has broken through the common wall
of the crater chain and has taken a south-westerly direction. It
originates from a steep-walled shaft of only a few metres cir-
cumference, from which a heavy white vapour with a sulphurous
acid smell poured out incessantly. The Askari looked into the
smoking depths with manifest distrust, and a man from the
Burunga neighbourhood, whom we had taken with us as a guide,
could not be persuaded to approach anywhere near in his
tremendous awe of the scheitani (devil) who without doubt dwelt
there.

Dr. von Raven and von Wiese came up soon after, whilst
Grauer and Kirschstein, who were lower down, hungrily awaiting
the arrival of the luncheon basket, put in their appearance later.
We at once commenced the ascent to the summit of the crater,
and proceeded without very great difficulty. Certainly a way
had to be cut through the bush region with axe and knife, but

ERUPTIVE SHAFT IN THE CRATER OF NAMLAGIRA

CAKE LAVA AT THE SOUTHERN FOOT OF NAMLAGIRA

In the Volcanic Region 149

this work did not cause much trouble and hindered our advance
but little. A good many elephant trails were seen right up to
the vegetation limit of 2,700 metres. Keeping a moderate
climbing pace, and striding over bare lava at the finish, we
reached the crater in two hours. This ascent was the first under-
taken from the southern side, whilst Lieutenant Schwartz, who
was appointed to the German Congo Boundary Expedition,
made his first ascent from the eastern side in 1902.

Namlagira is a flat volcanic peak with a very gentle slope
traversed by broad longitudinal and latitudinal rifts and, like
Ninagongo, possesses a very typical broad explosive crater. The
latter, in fact, is larger than the Graf Gotzen crater, the diameter,
according to Kirschstein's measurements, being close on two kilo-
metres! Although we had already received many memorable
impressions of the grandeur of the African volcanic world, we
were, nevertheless, taken aback at the spectacle of this colossal
crater. Its walls fall almost vertically to the depths, and end
in a kind of terrace which encircles the crater and which in its
eastern part has a ledge projecting towards the centre. This is
the remainder of an old and much riven crater-floor which was
once blown up by an exceedingly violent eruption. The terrace
falls away steeply to the actual floor, which is perfectly level like
that of the Graf Gotzen crater. Smoke of a sulphur-yellow and
chalky-white colour issues from a large number of cracks and
fissures. Terraces and crater-floor are formed of congealed lava,
and are covered, in places, with still smoking layers of cinders
and lapilli. These spring from the more recent outbreaks of
Namlagira, not from the crater proper, but, as Kirschstein will
prove later on, from an eruptive flue blasted up through the
terrace projection just mentioned.

We had gone without food since six o'clock in the morning,
and our hungry stomachs were insistently demanding their rights.
So at four o'clock in the afternoon we began the descent over
smooth lava, and before very long we found a favourable spot
in the vicinity of a small stream. We encountered some diffi-
culty in driving our tent pegs into the cracks in the lava, and

150 In the Heart of Africa

were not without fear of the tents collapsing. Finally, how-
ever, we sat down to do full justice to a smoking dish of Busi
(goat-flesh), and to discuss the various incidents of a very event-
ful day.

As Wiese, Raven and I had to push on farther north in
order to establish friendly relations with the Belgian officers
who were awaiting us at Rutschuru, we bade good-bye to Kirsch-
stein and Grauer, the latter of whom contemplated returning to
Kiwu, whilst Kirschstein prepared to devote himself to the
special task of investigating the geological conditions of the
volcanoes, a matter for which I had granted him a few months'
time.

During a period of over half a year of strenuous activity,
during which he successively ascended all the eight mountain
summits, Kirschstein thoroughly explored the Virunga volcanoes
and elucidated the conditions of their subsoil and their tectonic
and geological formation. I trust that this, the first expert
geological investigation of the practically inexhaustibly rich and
interesting field of the volcanic region at Lake Kiwu, may yield
some valuable new material for professional colleagues at home.

Although we were not privileged ourselves to see anything
in the way of a notable eruption during our stay at Namlagira,
Kirschstein, who was compelled by his researches to remain
several weeks longer, had the good fortune to witness at close
quarters quite a number of outbreaks from this volcano. I
append a brief description of one such event in his own words :

" I was awakened, whilst lying in bed early one morning, by
a singular uproar which sounded something like the crashing of
breakers on a distant shore. I tore aside the tent hangings and
feasted my eyes on the magnificent view of an eruption of Nam-
lagira. Surging and swelling violently, and sounding something
like the variable roar of an immense, invisible furnace, white
clouds of steaming vapour, resembling monstrous cauliflower
heads in appearance, issued continuously from the crater, form-
ing over our heads a mighty pine-like canopy, spread out like a
fan at the top. It seemed to grow in the clear morning air to

In the Volcanic Region 15 1

simply endless dimensions. Then a strong rush of brownish ex-
halations mingled with the gleaming white. A broad fiery stream
shot up suddenly into the air ... then followed a second . . .
a third. ... It was as if gigantic hands were incessantly and
indefatigably hurling up untold bucketfuls of glowing ashes
from the deep throat of the crater to the light of day. Simul-
taneously a dense lapilli shower descended from the eruptive
cloud. A rain of finest scoria, cooling rapidly in the air, was
swept by the east wind that prevailed over many kilometres of
the western edge of the Central African rift-valley. In the mean-
while the pine cone, which had previously gleamed white,
assumed a deep black colour in its lower part. The uppermost
parts of the cloud masses, lying towering over one another like
tremendous balls of cotton wool, alone retained their whiteness.
. . . After about an hour the vehemence of the outburst abated
appreciably. The rain of lapilli ceased. Singular exhalations
shot up in the eruptive cloud, which had now turned pure white
again but was much less distinct in form, and were accompanied
by sharp detonations. The roaring in the depths swelled with
a rattling noise as of hundreds of hammers forming one power-
ful chord, but it lasted only a few seconds, and then sank away
again to a steady, hardly perceptible murmur, and finally ceased.
In another half-hour all was over, and Namlagira lay reposing
peacefully before our eyes. Only a faint cloud of smoke re-
mained hovering around the bare summit."

Altogether Kirschstein observed eleven such violent gaseous
and cinder eruptions of Namlagira, and he photographed the
greater number of them. He writes: "At night the eruptions
from the volcano presented a picture of thrilling beauty. The
columns of vapour, illuminated as if by a smelting furnace, shot
up from the broad mouth of the crater like pillars of fire to the
heavens, gleaming blood-red, and then fell down to earth again,
sparkling and scintillating in a glorious rain of glowing ashes.
It could be clearly perceived that the greater portion of the
volcanic sputum fell back again into the crater. It was so light
around that in the camp at the southern foot of the mountain

i52 In the Heart of Africa

I was able to read off the barometer, or the time, without the
aid of any lantern." The eruptions were always alike in char-
acter, and consisted of an immense mass of aqueous vapour, no
discharges of lava making themselves apparent.

Some of the eruptions observed by Kirschstein were surveyed
at the same time by Lieutenant Wiese with the photo-theodolite,
from a greater distance. The pictures measured later with the
stereo-comparator showed that in one case (the eruption of the
1 7th November) the vaporous pine-like formation measured no
less than nine kilometres in height, whilst it attained a breadth
of nearly nineteen kilometres in the uppermost fan-shaped
parts. These figures assist one to form an idea of the im-
mense area occupied by these gaseous vaporous masses during
an eruption.

It may be deemed worthy of mention that Kirschstein, who
ascended Namlagira before, during, and after the eruption, four
times in all, also ventured to effect a descent to the crater of this
active volcano for the purpose of elucidating manifold and
diverse geological questions. With regard to this decidedly
daring experiment he shall speak for himself:

" I essayed the descent," reports Kirschstein, " in clear
weather on the 5th of December with a few specially picked
followers on whose trustworthiness and cool-headedness I
thought I could implicitly rely. Quite suddenly in the middle
of the crater we were enveloped in a dense mist and a fine
drizzling rain. The fog was so thick that we could hardly see
five paces in front of us, let alone discern the edges of the smok-
ing jaws of the volcano. One false step and we should have
vanished irrevocably for all eternity in the sinister yawning depths.
At the best there was the danger of being lost in the dense fog. In
these circumstances I decided to await a change of weather on
the spot itself. For two hours we waited, glued to the same
position. Then, suddenly, there came a dull rumbling from
under our feet like subterraneous thunder. First gently, re-
sembling thunder at a distance. Then again. Finally swell-
ing distinctly from minute to minute. . . . Cold sweat bathed

In the Volcanic Region 153

my forehead. There could be no illusion, the mountain was
awakening to fresh activity! Aware of the terrible position in
which we were placed in the centre of the crater I immediately
gave orders to march back. And indeed it was high time, for the
lapilli was already beginning to rain like hail upon our heads ;
the volcanic fumes stifled our lungs and oppressed our chests ;
our breath grew shorter and shorter, and we could almost hear
our hearts beating. We groped our way forward in silence,
but the heavy fog prevented us from ascertaining our position.
My people, too, had entirely lost their heads. They charged
me with having brought down the wrath of the scheitani, or devil,
of the mountain upon us through having photographed him in
his dwelling-place, and denounced me for having led them to
their destruction. In short, after wandering aimlessly around
step by step, we continuously found our way barred by the
steeply rising crater walls, whilst the dull rolling thunder
momentarily increased in volume. It was a highly disagreeable,
indeed, a highly critical situation. I could feel the blood throb-
bing in my veins. Unless we found our way out of the mouse-
trap very quickly we were utterly lost. . . . Luckily for us the
thick veil of fog lifted. Only for a moment though. Yet it
sufficed. I had noted the position on the crater walls where
we might find our way out. A few moments later we were
standing up above on the edge of the crater, and a loud hurrah
sprang from our throats. We were saved from our peril.
My black followers skipped about for joy. Now, of course,
not one of them had entertained the slightest fear of the
sckeitani. They were, naturally, far too enlightened for any-
thing of the sort, was the opinion of one of my Askari. . . .

"I repeated the descent on the I5th of December. The
weather was clear and sunny and so I was able to make the
circuit of a large part of the inner crater-terrace, besides taking
some observations of much value to me. I also succeeded in
getting some capital photographs. The vapour formation was
of an extremely slight character, and a thorough examination of

the different parts of the crater was possible. Besides the chief
U

154 In the Heart of Africa

eruptive canal I discovered two further flues running down
vertically into the earth, which like the main one, had burst
out from the encircling terraces (not from the crater-floor proper)
and were smoking faintly."

During the whole of his sojourn at Namlagira Kirschstein
kept a regular record of the meteorological conditions ; made
scientific investigations into the relations of the parasitic craters ;
determined their exact shape and position, and carried out a
great many further tasks. These dealt chiefly with the manifold
volcanic phenomena encountered in the comparatively recent lava
field piled south of Namlagira. Besides characteristic volcanic
cinder chimneys, " hornitos " as they are called, and the singular
lava cloaks on charred tree trunks, there was a long lava tunnel
(155 metres), very typical in feature, and in many respects in-
structive, which particularly arrested our attention. As is well
known, lava tunnels of this description are formed by the stream
of lava cooling off very quickly on the surface whilst the fiery
stream continues to flow on beneath the congealed outer crust,
leaving the latter finally in the shape of a hollow tube, often a
kilometre in length. In the one we investigated (see illustra-
tion) the end part of the tunnel was quite intact and merged
into an open cavern. Further on, however, the tunnel had caved
in so that it formed a lava fissure running in a direct line from
north-west to south-east, four metres in width and seventeen
metres in depth. It may be questioned whether a large pro-
portion of the gaping lava rifts found in other volcanic regions,
and which are attributed to tectonic action, may not have arisen
in the same way.

There was another interesting result of Kirschstein's investi-
gations in the Namlagira district. He was successful in dis-
covering a series of those most primitive forms of manifesta-
tions of volcanic forces which Branca first described with any
accuracy as occurring in the neighbourhood of Urach in Swabia,
and introduced to science under the apposite title of "volcanic
embryos." These are steep-walled eruptive canals, sometimes
only a metre in breadth, which have been blown up through the

In the Volcanic Region i55

outer crust of earth in consequence of an explosion of the gases
pent up in the subterranean centre, without any loose or solid
volcanic sputum having amassed around the mouth of the shaft.
Consequently no volcanic cone has formed, and so, to some
extent, these explosive products are the youthful stages in the
life of a volcano. For if it is assumed that every eruption is
introduced by volcanic explosion, the existence of an explosive
canal under all the burning mountains of the earth, whether
extinct or still active, must be taken for granted.

So far as the eruptive shafts in the vicinity of Namlagira,
which were investigated and accurately surveyed by Kirschstein,
were not choked up by the stone, rock and rubble scattered by
the explosion, they proved to be extremely deep. In any case,
the hundred-metre rope used by Kirschstein did not suffice to
probe their depth, and on throwing largish stones down, the
rumbling and rattling could be distinctly heard for at least ten
seconds.

The results of his other researches may here follow in his
own words:

" It matters not whether we proceed on our way over the lava
fields of Namlagira or, standing on the summit of Ninagongo,
we direct our gaze over the gaping depths of the Graf Gotzen
crater, the knowledge that we have newly-formed volcanic soil
under our feet remains. There is a feeling of surprise that the
earth does not suddenly begin to quiver and tremble. In truth
the possibility of any surprises of such a nature is not altogether
excluded. This is shown by the new volcanic formations found
at quite a recent date in the western group of the Virunga
volcanoes.

" Thus a small volcanic cone formed itself suddenly one day
in the month of May, 1904, to the south of Namlagira, and
spouted out a stream of lava 250 metres broad as far as to the
northern end of Lake Kiwu. The glowing river buried trees
and bushes in its course, and hurled lava blocks and bombs, six
feet or so in height, as far as the lake, ten kilometres away.
When Weiss and I visited the newly formed, and until then

156 In the Heart of Africa

nameless, volcanic cone in October, 1907, being the first Euro-
peans to do so, and definitely determined its position carto-
graphically, we christened it, in honour of his Highness, the
Adolf Friedrich Peak. The cone itself is formed of quite loose
eruptive material, innumerable heaps of scoria which had massed
themselves over one another. There is no crater perceptible.
The point of egress of the lava stream, the eruptive flue, is buried
under the mighty masses of ashes and thus remains invisible.
The cone, however, is traversed in parts by cracks and rifts
which steam vigorously and on the edges of which the
scoria are coloured in hues varying from sulphur-yellow to dark
red-brown. It is not requisite to be endowed with the delicate
sense of smell of a chemist to recognise the gases which issue
from the depths. The prickling smell of sulphurous acids, with
which in places muriatic acid fumes are mingled, may be detected
for miles around. Sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid gas
also play a prominent part.

"A second and smaller volcanic cone of the same type as
the Adolf Friedrich was formed in the autumn of 1905, to
the east of Namlagira. The natives called it Kana* maharage,
which means ' the master who loves beans.' This was the name
given by the natives to Lieutenant Pfeiffer when living, who
came to grief whilst elephant-hunting, and whose spirit they
believed to have flown into the hill which had suddenly risen up
from the level ground to an accompaniment of fire and thunder.
Like the Adolf Friedrich, the Kana maharage cone consists
mainly of loose volcanic scoria, and differs only from the first-
named in that it possesses a visible summit crater, with a diameter
of about seventy-five metres at the top. When I visited the
Kana maharage in December, 1907, my attention was attracted
by a large number of places on the surface of the lava stream,
in the near vicinity of the cone, which smoked in parts and were
multifariously coloured, chalky-white, brick-red, dark-brown.
The impression given was that a person had got hold of an in-
exhaustible paint-box and casually daubed the greyish-black
* Kana, incorrect Wanjaruanda pronunciation of batta ("master").

ON THE ADOLF FRIEDRIGH CONE

SUMMIT OF THE ADOLF FRIEDRICH CONE

In the Volcanic Region 157

lava with prodigious smudges of colour in the most prodigal
fashion."

After exploring the active western group of the Virunga
volcanoes, with their floods of recent lava, Kirschstein turned his
attention to the middle group. This has probably been extinct
for a considerable time. In addition to Mikeno, steep, jagged
and weather-worn, the ascent of which I have already described,
Karissimbi with its elevation of 4,500 metres is also noteworthy.
It is the highest of the Virunga volcanoes, and at the same time
is doubtless one of the most stupendous volcanic mountains in
the world. Kirschstein in his report writes as follows :

"Karissimbi towers above the landscape, its mighty western
plateau crowned by a cone of comely shape. With its solid,
massive bulk, its gigantic proportions reaching up into the sky,
it overwhelms the observer. The summit is very rarely clear,
and a dense layer of clouds nearly always envelops it. When
they disperse, perhaps for a few moments only, and hover like
a white cap over the head of the peak, the glittering snowy
splendour which reveals itself to the eye is a magnificent spec-
tacle. A very characteristic view of Karissimbi can be obtained
from the north, either from Wissoke or from the Belgian military
post of Rutschuru.

"The principal cone rises up from the plain in a remarkably
regular way, tapering off to the peak, whilst a long ridge extends
along the eastern flank. Many travellers have maintained that
this part of the mountain is the remainder of an ancient crater
wall, but this is hardly correct. Incidentally I have ascer-
tained that the so-called ridge is an extended and almost
level plateau in which a tremendous hitherto unknown crater
is buried, more than one and a half kilometres in breadth,
and which I have named the Branca Crater. Karissimbi has a
second crater almost direct south of the main cone. This is the
Hans Meyer Crater. The summit itself has no crater. Bare
rocks, broken up into a chaos of loose blocks, meet the eye. Ice
lies in the cracks and clefts of the rock."

Karissimbi was climbed by Mildbraed, Schubotz and Kirsch-

158 In the Heart of Africa

stein successively. Mildbraed reports the vegetation as stand-
ing out in harsh contrast with that of Ninagongo.

"On Ninagongo," he writes, "everything was in the process
of formation. Nothing had matured. The flora of this moun-
tain offers no rich booty to the botanist, but yet it is imposing
by very reason of its monotony. The enormous base of the
volcano is covered with a pure bamboo vegetation up to a height
of some 3,000 metres, and this extends in broad bands as far as
the mixed bamboo forests of the Bugoie mountain land. From
a botanical point of view the bamboo forest is uncommonly
monotonous. Generally speaking nothing but scrubby under-
growth flourishes. The deep black vegetable soil is often
covered by a carpet of small selaginella. Small ferns grow in
it, different shrubs related to the stinging nettle (Fleurya, Piled},
and occasionally a pale pink balsam (Impatiens Eminit). Rarely,
but more often in such spots where the bamboo is in any way
impeded in its development, woody plants are to be found
sprinkled here and there. Amongst these the often-mentioned
Hypericum lanceolatum Lam., takes the first place. I measured
stems of two metres in circumference, on the whole, the sturdiest
that I had met with during the expedition.

" Up beyond the bamboo on Karissimbi a vegetation exists
which, perhaps, has not its like on any other African moun-
tain. Even from the lava plains below one can see it gleaming
out from between the trees like luxuriant alpine meadows clad in
freshest green. Having passed the monotonous bamboo, one is
amazed at stepping into quite a strange open wood formed almost
entirely of extremely old hagenia stems. One measured 6.45
metres in circumference. They looked almost like huge blocks
of rock, divided at a short distance above the ground into
gigantic overhanging boughs covered with thick mossy cushions,
and unravelling in light branches bearing silver-grey, hairy
pinnae, slightly reminiscent of the well-known tanners' sumac
(Rhus typhind). The undergrowth is composed of the pretty
shrubs of Hypericum lanceolatum, a beautiful vernonia of tree-
like growth, and there is a fine sort of blackberry bramble which

THE KANA MAHARAGE

BAMBOO FOREST AT THE SOUTHERN FOOT OF KARISSIMBI

KARISSIMBI, SEEN FROM MIKENO AT AN ELEVATION OF 3,900 METRES

SUMMIT OF KARISSIMBI, THE HANS MEYER CRATER IN THE FOREGROUND

In the Volcanic Region 159

carries blossoms of the size and colour of Rubus runsorensis Engl. ,
The undergrowth, however, which forms the 'green meadows'
which one sees from below, is a real wilderness of great African
shrubs of which the most important are the umbel liferae
(Anthriscus silvestris (Z,.) Hofftn., and Peucedanum Kerstenii
Engl.}, as also a sorrel (Rumex Steudelii Hochst.}. The soil is
rich, soft and heavy : the foot sinks deep into it at every step.

"The heath region at Karissimbi is not particularly note-
worthy. It is true that the Philippia Johnstonii Engl. attains
stately, tree-like dimensions with very broad, dense crowns,
comparing very favourably with the ericacea of Ruwenzori, but
it is limited to the margin of the Hans Meyer Crater, an altitude
of 3,800 metres, and only forms a streak amongst the senecio
growth which starts lower down.

" The Senecio Johnstonii is extraordinarily developed at Karis-
simbi. It begins below the so-called south cone at an elevation
of about 3,400 metres as a candelabrum-branched tree about ten
metres in height, and extends up the cone for another thousand
metres, of which it is the sole inhabitant. In the lower region
it is interspersed with the mighty stalks of Lobelia Wollastonii
Sp. Moore, which look like immense gun swabs. There were few
blooming plants to be found in November ; there were mostly
withered stems or young plants with great shocks of leaves. One
withered stem measured 5.50 metres in height, of which the blos-
som-spikes took up 2.50, the circumference of the hollow stems in
the leafy region being 50 centimetres. It is the same genus which
is characteristic of the alpine region of Ruwenzori. In this vegeta-
tion the ground is covered with a semi-shrublike Alchemilla
cinerea Engl., which spreads almost all over the great mountain
cone like a perfect grey-green carpet. It is excessively fatiguing
to climb in it, especially in the lower part, where one sinks in up
to the knees. Below the summit it gives way to mosses, liver-
wort and lichen, but we came across it again near the highest
point in the shape of a few dwarfed specimens amongst the
snowflakes and the storm-tossed lava fragments which were
studded with ice crystals at an elevation of 4,500 metres."

160 In the Heart of Africa

Unfortunately this colossal volcanic giant was not fated to
be conquered without loss of human life. Kirschstein and his
caravan were overtaken by a terrible catastrophe on Karissimbi.
When I received the following letter from Kirschstein I was
filled with deep pity for the poor fellows who, whilst faithfully
fulfilling their duty, had fallen victims to their superstitions: —
" My labours at Karissimbi were for the most part concluded
by the 26th of February. My frozen followers had held on for
a full seven days with me in the airy heights without grumbling.
Added to the unwonted cold we were suffering from shortness of
provisions. I therefore resolved to begin the descent. It was a
bright sunny morning when we struck camp on the eastern edge
of the Branca Crater, where for the time being we had pitched
our tents. It never entered our heads then that in a few short
hours we should be brought face to face with grim death. . . .

"As we had to return by the southern side of the mountain
on account of its being an easier descent, I selected the shorter
cut right across the Branca Crater instead of making a circuit of
it, which would have meant a journey of two or three hours
longer. The imposing, broad, flat surface of the crater forms
a great moor, from the centre of which a small, irregular volcanic
cone rises up. On the cone there is a beautiful clear lake
encircled by very steep walls. A few other lakes, shut in partly
by low hills, lie to the south-east and north-west of the otherwise
perfectly level and spongy floor of the crater.

"We had safely traversed the first half of the moor when
we were suddenly assailed by an extraordinarily violent shower
of hail which came down from an almost bright sky, whilst a
dense fog gathered at the same time. The temperature sank to
zero, and then a snowstorm of such fury set in that, if I had
not myself been a witness of it, I should have deemed it im-
possible in equatorial Africa. My carriers had scarcely perceived
the snow when they threw away their loads, lay down on the
ground, and with wails declared that they must die. It was in
vain that I urged them to pursue the march. I made it quite
plain to them that lying down on Ihe icy cold, swampy ground,

ERICACEAE, WITH BEARD MOSS, KARISSIMBI

LOBELIA WOLLASTONII, SENECIO JOHNSTONII, AND CAREX RUNSSORENSIS-

BULTEN, KARISSIMBI

In the Volcanic Region 161

without even the shelter of trees or the possibility of making
any fire, would only mean certain death for all of us, whilst the
crater-edge with its tree and plant growths would vouchsafe us
shelter and succour. I insisted upon their standing up again.
All in vain! To no purpose! Nothing sufficed to awaken them
from their lethargy.

"All my persuasion, insistence and even threats brought no
result. ' Amri ya mungu ' (' It is the decree of the gods, we must
die ') was the only reply that I could elicit. What was to be
done ? The will power and the intelligence of the European
were powerless here against the fatalism and stupid apathy of
the negro. Summoning up all my remaining strength of will I
fought my way, wading up to my knees in icy cold water, accom-
panied by my two Askari and a very few followers, through
the storm and snow straight to the edge of the crater. Arrived
there we contrived to erect a temporary camp in the shelter of
the trees and made a fire. Time after time, accompanied only
by the two Askari, I penetrated the pathless swamp, and so
brought one hapless native after the other to the warm camp fire.
I ordered my men to leave the loads where they were so long
as they rescued the people. But even our own strength failed
at last. ' Master, if we have to go out again, we shall never
return alive ; we can do no more ! ' declared the Askari, and
their looks corroborated only too well the truth of their words.
These brave fellows had really done all that it was possible for
human power to do. They had come to the end of their strength.
The closing darkness, too, made any further attempt at rescue
hopeless, as the nearly rigid and numbed unfortunates, who
were invisible to us through the tall reed-grass, appeared to be
unable to reply any longer to our calls. There was therefore
nothing else to be done but to leave them to their fate until the
morning.

"Absolutely drenched through, without any tent, limbs
shivering from emotion and cold, and wrapped in a blanket
only — that is how we spent the sleepless night round the camp
fire, only to have to resume our work of exhumation again with

1 62 In the Heart of Africa

the first grey light of morning. Exhumation , not rescue, for
what remained to be rescued was heartrendingly little. Very
few of the luckless ones, of whom my carrier-leader Salim was
one, showed any trace of life. All the rest, twenty in number,
and nearly half my caravan, lay corpses in the snow. Frozen
under a tropical sun! Faces horribly distorted by the death
agony, fingers scraping deeply into the snow, so they lay! A
terrible spectacle for us who had arrived too late to save them.

" One thought alone possessed me — Away ! away ! as far as
ever possible from the abode of death! The loads had, of
course, to be abandoned, amongst them my scientific collections
and the whole of the valuable photographic material — the work
of many weeks. Who would drag them along ? We ourselves
were half-dead. We could only take the most absolutely
necessary things with us. Arrived at the lower Karissimbi camp
I collapsed. When I returned to consciousness two days later I
found that my people, or at least the strongest of them, had
so far recovered that we could turn our attention to the task
of unburying the loads which had been left behind. By good
fortune they were all regained, not a stick was lost."

This most regrettable episode offers a very striking example
of the fatalism, and the lack of energy engendered thereby, in
the negro during dangerous situations, where a rapid apprehension
of the position and cool-headed independent action would save
him. " Amri ya mungu " is the watchword with which he con-
fronts all the arts of persuasion. " Amri ya mungu " — it is the
divine will that we are to die, so let us die. One might imagine
this to be truly pious resignation and subjection to the divine
power, but that is not at all the case. The formula so used is
purely a phrase heard from youth up and handed down from
father to son, in which the stupid apathy of the negro evinces
itself. That it would be possible to overcome this by an appro-
priate method of treatment, by which I mean severity tempered
with justice, is proved by the model behaviour and energetic
conduct of the two Askari. Taken altogether, I could adduce
many a fine instance of cool-headed and courageous action in

In the Volcanic Region 163

the face of peril on the part of most of the Askari who formed
our escort for the better part of a year.

In spite of the severe catastrophe on Karissimbi, Kirschstein
successfully completed the geological survey of the volcanic
region, and amongst other achievements he was the first European
to climb Wissoke, which belongs to the middle group. It would,
however, lead me too far were I to enter into the details of his
special investigations. I will content myself in this place with
quoting a few of his observations concerning Muhawura, the
easternmost of the Virunga volcanoes: —

" My researches on Muhawura, which is 4,165 metres in height,
led to the establishment of the fact, which is as noteworthy as it
is surprising, that this mountain, generally believed to be ex-
tinct, has had lava floodings at a comparatively recent date,
which have streamed away over its eastern and north-eastern
slopes. Thus the theory that the furnace of the volcanic forces
in the interior of the Virunga mountains has travelled from east
to west, and that therefore the older volcanic creations are to be
found in the east and the younger in the west is confuted.
For Muhawura, which is the most easterly, would in that case
be the most venerable and longest extinct of the Virunga
volcanoes ; this, however, is not the case.

" The conviction at which I have arrived, based on the geo-
logical traces, of the relative youth of Muhawura finds support
in the vegetation of the mountain, whose east to north-eastern
slope is remarkable inasmuch as the flora bears the distinct stamp
of the incompleted, one might say of debris: a mazy chaos of
herbaceous growths, but no tree, only indications of bamboo,
no ericacea. Mildbraed is also of the opinion that lava streams
have flowed down this side of Muhawura at no very distant
date. On the other hand, the senecia region at the summit is
developed quite typically in places which have been spared by
the recent lava floods. Here again, as in Karissimbi, one finds
the conjunction of Senecio Johnstonii, Lobelia Wollasitonii sp.
Moore and Alchemilla ctnerea Engl. The senecio, indeed, forms
a belt-like zone, a real primeval forest of such density and

1 64 In the Heart of Africa

amidst such a jumble of timber covered with dripping wet moss
cushions, that one can only work through it with considerable
difficulty, often sinking up to the breast in the overgrown clefts
and hollows.

" Finally, many of the native designations indicate that
eruptions of Muhawura have occurred within their memory ;
whilst, on the other hand, they have no knowledge that Sabinjo
or the volcanoes of the middle group have ever been ' fire-moun-
tains.' Thus, for instance, an eruptive flue on Muhawura bears
in the native tongue the name ' Kabiranjuma,' that is to say, ' the
last bubbler ' or ' last boiler,' whilst the land lying to the north-
east of Muhawura is distinguished by the title ' Ufumbiro,' which
means the smoker.

" The natural forces here have not had the complaisance to
proceed exactly in the routine manner desired by man. The
volcanic energy has certainly not worried itself much as regards
the nice divisions into eastern and western groups, but has
asserted itself quite independently. Muhawura is by no means
the oldest extinct volcano of the mountain world around Lake
Kiwu. So far as the degree of disintegration and other geo-
logical indications are concerned, Sabinjo in the eastern and
Mikeno in the central group must be regarded as the most
ancient of the Virunga volcanoes, or at least those which have
been quiet longest."

By the end of March Kirschstein had finished his labours
in the volcanic region. As a result of his activity it was possible,
through the kind offices of the White Fathers at Ruasa, to send
off to the coast no fewer than seventeen loads, with lavas, scoria,
bombs, sublimation products, etc., from the Virunga volcanoes,
as well as two double loads of photographic plates. He himself
wended his way over Ufumbiro and the lava fields lying to the
north of the volcanoes, towards Rutschuru.

ALPINE MOOR WITH SENECIO JOHNSTONII, KARISSIMBI

CROSSING A RIVER ON A LAVA FIELD, MUHAWURA

W

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CHAPTER VII

TO LAKE ALBERT EDWARD

OUR sojourn in a land like the Congo State which forms a
centre of international interest, and into the administration of
which we were privileged to obtain a glimpse, naturally calls for
a review of some sort, or at least a comparison with the conditions
and institutions of other African territories which are under
foreign rule. The reader might expect that at the beginning of
the chapter which deals with our stay in the Congo State the
questions of greatest interest, such as the administration of the
country, the exploitation of its products, or the native question,
would be fully entered into. I crave his indulgence if I do not
fulfil his anticipations. Firstly, any attempt to deal with such
questions would far exceed the limits of a simple narrative of
travel, and, secondly, I would not presume, after a stay of only
seven months in a country, which it would take years to know
well, to form any conclusive judgment concerning it.

One idea that has become general, however, I will most firmly
oppose, namely, that the policy of the Congo State is only con-
cerned in depriving the population of its rights and depleting it
for sordid mercenary gain. It is true that there have been
isolated instances of cruelty, and cases where officials lacking in
understanding have misused the powers confided to them by
excess of zeal, or in an attack of "tropical frenzy," and this is
not denied by the Belgians ; but these are things which happen
in the colonies of every nation. It is impossible to prevent their
occurrence in countries where the indolence and the behaviour of
the people necessitates the strictest discipline to promote the
development of the countries' great wealth. The natives of the

165

1 66 In the Heart of Africa

Congo State are certainly treated with an extremely firm hand,
but they are not overworked. Even in the great rubber dis-
tricts where the inhabitants are hostile, the reason is not to be
sought for in oppressive conditions of labour. The daily work
of an artisan in Germany far exceeds that which is turned out
by the negro. The true reason of the antagonistic attitude must
be looked for in the inborn dread of any compulsory, steady
bodily exertion, which is a cause of resentment with most negro
races, as well as with the dwellers in the virgin forest.

I should like to record here that we met with many exemplary
institutions in the Congo State in comparison with which the
excesses of one or two individual officials are of no importance
whatever. The treatment of the natives might in many cases
be termed too humane, so that it often heavily handicaps the
administrative officers. An officer of a safari, for instance, may
only punish with castigation the people who are in his permanent
pay (Askari, " boys," etc.) ; he is powerless as regards the carriers.
He is even bound to report any offence committed by a carrier
in the first instance to the proper Chef de zone, or chief of the
station, who again must employ a European and not a coloured
man to bring in the offender. If a native is to be arrested at a
European outpost and he happens to be on the spot, he may not
be detained there. The punishment usually consists of deten-
tion in irons or imprisonment ; the flogging of non-employees is
prohibited.

Now it is sufficiently well known that travelling in Africa is
impossible without the maintenance of the strictest discipline and
the use of flogging as a punishment for disobedience. This is
the experience of all those who have travelled with a large safari
for any length of time. Where severity is not combined with
justice and fairness, where the European after full inquiry is
not empowered to punish the offender as he merits, there the
discipline which is absolutely imperative in any caravan, as well
as the authority of the white man, speedily disappear. The
negro respects only the man who proves stronger than himself.
Power impresses him, not mildness or clemency ; the latter only

A SOLDIER OF THE
CONGO STATE

SOLDIERS OF THE CONGO STATE

To Lake Albert Edward 167

excites his contempt or scorn. It is only the white man who has
never travelled alone with a large caravan, absolutely dependent
on his own force of will, that can fail to recognise this fact.

Is an official to blame who, where driven to desperation by
the insubordination of the carriers, and fully familiar with the
punishment laws, breaks senseless injunctions in the full know-
ledge of the irregularity he is committing ?

As the reader may already be aware, the entire Congo State
is divided into a number of districts, the largest of which are
subdivided into zones and secteurs, the smaller into secteurs
only. They are governed by Belgian officers, or by officers of
other nations who have entered the Belgian service, and who are
employed in the civil administration. The military, again, are
subordinate to special officials.

Of the many institutions in connection with the administra-
tion of the Etat Independant du Congo with which we became
acquainted, I will make brief mention of the system of taxation
only :

The amount of the poll tax is determined by the Chef de
secteur. The ordinary rate amounts to one franc in the month,
or twelve francs per annum. In cases of non-payment, which
constantly occur, a monthly labour liability of four days (forty
hours) comes into force. Every worker, however, is compensated
with twenty-five centimes. Payment is tendered in beads or
cloth. Coin is unknown.

The black understands quite well how to clothe himself with
the stuffs received. The hands employed permanently at any
station go about chiefly in wide trunk-breeches made of very
elegant check stuff. A blue jacket is usually worn, and the
head gear consists of a thick, heavy straw hat with a very broad
brim and a high crown tapering off towards the top.

The troops are recruited from all parts of the State, and
are stationed as far as possible from their homes. They consist
throughout of powerful men of a good appearance, the best
types coming from the Uelle territory. The men wear a service-
able uniform, consisting of a short blue, red-piped jacket and

168 In the Heart of Africa

wide knee-breeches held up by a red sash at the waist. A red
fez decorates the head.

The soldiers are armed with a type of rifle once used by
the Belgian army, but now obsolete, called the Albini. The
shooting capacity of this weapon is so faulty that it is perfectly
excusable to miss an elephant at fifty paces. Contrary to the
usage of German native troops, these men go barefoot both on
parade and whilst on service. It is only on the march that a
kind of sandal shoe is worn, which is fastened over the instep
by a leather strap, and allows free ingress and egress to water.

The troops are trained at three great camps on the Congo,
which we visited later on ; and there, too, the recruits receive
their military education. Under the direction of European
(mostly Scandinavian) officers, about a thousand men are drilled
into serviceable soldiers in a one to one and a half years'
course, whereupon they are apportioned to various stations in the
interior. The camps present an almost painfully clean appear-
ance, and the care shown for the men is most exemplary. As
an instance, every soldier — nearly all are married — dwells with
his family in a small house of his own.

The term of service is seven years on active service and five
years in the reserve.

Contrasted with the coolness of the Ruanda climate, and the
cold of the volcanic region, which had greatly eased our arduous
marches, we found the sudden heat very oppressive when we
descended to the Rutschuru plain, which lies sheltered north
of the western group of the volcanoes. From high-lying
positions averaging 1,600 metres in altitude, the agreeable cool-
ness of which we had enjoyed for the past few months, we
descended to an altitude of about 1,000 metres.

The path brought us before long to a fairly thickly populated
district in which agriculture was carried on. At Busuenda,
Lieutenant Veriter, who had been appointed to us for the time
being as escort, reported himself to me.

Busuenda lies tolerably high. On clear days one can discern

CROSSING THE SEMLIKI AT MAJI JA MOTO

CANON FORMATION AT MAJI JA MOTO

To Lake Albert Edward 169

with a glass the glistening surface of Lake Albert Edward, five
days' march distant, and the outlines of the snow mountains of
Ruwenzori some hundred and fifty kilometres away. From here
the path drops steeply down into the Rutschuru plain. The
lower one descends, the more luxuriant grows the grass between
the villages.

At the foot of the hill, where the post of Rutschuru lies, we
crossed the wild-rushing River Rutschuru over a passable bridge
— the only one I had seen until then in the Congo State. A
broad road led up to the post, at the entrance to which we were
received by the Commandant Superieur Derche and others, and
a company of soldiers some 150 strong, who, then and also later
in the march past, made an excellent impression.

Rutschuru consists of a small fort with walls and moat, the
Askari village, 300 metres away, and a few thatched European
houses. It is the seat of the Chef de zone, Captain Baudelet
at that time, and the Chef de secteur, whose functions during
our visit were fulfilled by Lieutenant Spiltoir.

We passed two or three days in most friendly and agreeable
hospitality, and then we were obliged to push forward in the
little-visited district of the northern Rutschuru valley. By easy
marches through the perfectly level plain we arrived at
Maji ja moto (" Hot water "), which owes its name to the hot
springs which gush out of the rocks. The water is exceedingly
hot, the highest temperature taken by Kirschstein being 90 degrees
Celsius. According to our analysis it appeared to be a fairly
pure carbonate of soda water with a slight alkaline taste. A
smell of sulphuretted hydrogen was very noticeable. Ferrying
over the Semliki was not devoid of danger, for the current rushed
along so furiously that it was impossible to keep a boat in
position. We were consequently compelled to fasten long ropes
to the nose and the stern-post of the dug-out and construct a
sort of flying ferry. The pressure of the water against the side
of the boats was so great that they often lurched dangerously
and were in peril of capsizing ; each contained about six people

and their loads.
w

1 70 In the Heart of Africa

The camp was encircled with a stockade to form a protection
against lions, which were fairly prevalent, and it was therefore
very cramped. Our stay was in consequence hot and anything
but agreeable. The fence had proved itself necessary, how-
ever, as lions had previously broken in and destroyed human
life. The audacious marauders had not been daunted by a
leap of more than three metres over the high hedge. Only a
month before I arrived, a sentinel on duty at the exact spot
where my tent stood was seized by one of them. He only owed
his life to the fact that the lion, frightened by the screams in
the camp, abandoned his victim and, springing back over the
fence, fled away.

We came across fresh tracks which led close along by the
fence, and we several times heard roaring. As we intended to
shift our camp to the steppe as quickly as possible, turning off
in an easterly direction, the abundance of lions in this region
suited us very well. The whole Rutschuru plain from Maji ja
moto to the southern end of Lake Albert Edward simply swarms
with game. Wherever one looks the plain is covered with im-
mense herds of antelopes. Yet, as in the whole of Central
Africa, the number of species met with is fairly limited. The
chief are the water-buck, moor-antelopes, reed-buck, duyker-
buck and jimara (lyre-antelope). Buffalo may be seen daily
in great herds in the bush, which concentrates into a forest-like
growth towards the lake. We also often observed the ugly
forms of dicotyles. They prefer the neighbourhood of swampy
places and river courses, although they are also encountered in
the middle of the wide plain. As the dicotyles are accounted
a particular delicacy by the lion, their presence partly explains
the considerable number of lions in the district.

The Belgian officers, generally speaking, hunt very little,
and, indeed, the only game shot is used for commissariat pur-
poses, so that there does not appear to be any immediate danger
of these shooting-grounds being depleted. The Rutschuru steppe
is a bare, level track, broken by light acacia growths. It was
covered with low grass reaching to the knee at the time of our

WATER-BUCK (FEMALES) ON RUTSCHURU PLAIN

MOOR ANTELOPE

DICOTYLE

LION KILLED AT MAJI JA MOTO, NOVEMBER 16, 1907

To Lake Albert Edward 171

visit. The steppe is intersected longitudinally by a broad,
deep ravine, at the bottom of which flows a shallow watercourse.
This brook is overrun by a palm thicket, and is a favourite haunt
of beasts of prey, particularly lions and leopards. It was there
that we proposed to fix our headquarters.

Long-sustained roarings, disturbing the nocturnal peace,
raised hopes in Veriter's and my own breast that some of the
beasts might be visible when we tramped through the dewy
grass at daybreak. And we soon had the good fortune to have
our expectations realised. As the red disc of the sun shot
out its first rays to greet us, I saw the dark form of an immense
male lion slouching through the grass straight ahead of me,
the tips of the great mane and the line of the back showing
up strongly against the light. Having stalked him for some
distance, it was not difficult to bring him down. At the first
shot he wheeled round growling ; at the second he lurched
sideways and fell into the grass. Whilst inspecting the spoil,
casually raising our eyes to the west we saw the beginning of
a violent eruption of Namlagira. The column of smoke, wonder-
fully illuminated by the morning light, worked its way upward
in massive rolling clouds, and, widening out as it rose, was
dispersed in ever-increasing circles.

This single hour made amends for many a hunting failure.
To have shot a lion whilst in view of an active volcano! Not
many persons have had such an experience. To attain the victory
over the mightiest beast of prey with the mightiest spectacle
which Nature can offer as witness — was there ever such luck ?

Having skinned our prize, we proceeded further in the direc-
tion of the ravine, and took no further notice of the numerous
game all around us.

This gorge proved to be one of considerable difficulty for a
caravan to cross, and we had to construct a special road. A
steep path was struck through the brushwood to the bottom,
and was made passable for the load carriers in the swampy
places by heaping up palm branches. This work finished, we
lay down to a well-earned rest, expecting the caravan to arrive

1 72 In the Heart of Africa

in about an hour's time, under the conduct of Raven. Suddenly
we heard shots in the distance, and, jumping up, we made out
Raven and Weidemann, accompanied by two Askari, climbing
down the opposite side of the ravine with their guns in readiness,
some 300 metres from where we lay. I snatched up my gun
and rushed to the scene.

" What's the matter ? "

"Lions!"

"Where?"

" In the gorge."

"How many?"

" Three ; here are their tracks. One is wounded, for there's
blood here."

I signed to three Askari and we occupied the edge of the
ravine on our side to prevent the beasts escaping. As further
search proved useless for the time being, we decided to continue
it in the afternoon, and set up camp scarcely 400 metres north
of the edge of the ravine. Unfortunately I was obliged to forgo
further participation in the hunt as some very pressing corre-
spondence confined me to the tent. In any case, I entertained
no further hope of success ; I did not think for a moment that
it was possible for the two unhurt lions to be still in the vicinity.
But I was mistaken ; for hardly were the two Askari whom I
had sent to spy out the land and bring back any news, out of
sight, than one of them, the Masai, Abdullah, came flying back
making signs in the distance. Now or never! Pen and paper
were thrown aside. Jamming my hat on my head, I snatched
up my rifle and loaded as I ran. In the meantime Abdullah had
reached me. " Quick, quick, bana ; there are two big lions lying
there and sleeping, karibu sana — quite close."

Two minutes later I examined the perfectly fresh tracks and
the warm place where the two maned lions had been surprised
in their sleep at fifty paces by the Askari. In fact the bushes
had scarcely ceased shaking at the places where the beasts had
vanished in the thicket. That wretched scrawling business ! The
reader must forgive me if my hunting ardour conquered the

BUSH-BUCK

LIEUT. WEISS WITH A LIONESS KILLED AT MAJI JA MOTO

To Lake Albert Edward 173

interests of science at that moment. Three lions ought to have
been recorded in our shooting book on November the I4th!

The next morning quite fresh tracks were recognised in the
wet grass in this memorable ravine, which we, of course, followed
up. After three hours' stalking we sighted the quarry at 200
paces, although the tall grass gave only very fleeting glimpses
of the beast. I levelled and aimed, but could not fire as he
kept diving down into the grass. As he appeared to be escaping
altogether, I fired at last, trusting to luck, and — missed!

I was, however, more fortunate the next day. We had found
by experience that the rapacious creatures were in the habit of
visiting the ravine at early dawn, after their nocturnal prowls.
The place fell away in terrace formations from the east, and
as it was chiefly from that direction that we heard the roaring
at night, we took up our position to the east of the ravine.
Raven, Veriter and I spread out, the Askari between us and
within sight. As the country in front of us could be overlooked
far and wide, no animal could enter or leave the gorge without
being observed. Further, a particular signal was agreed upon
with the Askari, so that in case of a lion being sighted the
nearest marksman could be apprised without delay. I had not
waited long at my post at the right end of the deep gorge
before I heard the deep growl which had become so familiar
to me, at first in the distance, then growing nearer. I decided
to climb through the gorge and, if possible, advance to meet
the lion. I had hardly reached the other side when a repeated
roaring advised me of the right direction, although it was seven
o'clock and quite light. Suddenly I saw my fine fellow trotting
along through the grass about 300 metres in front of me. I
ran towards him as fast as my legs would carry me, accompanied
only by my boy, Almas. This manoeuvre succeeded. The lion
also started running, and as I caught sight of the upper half
of his body, I potted him at 120 paces, causing him to reel
to the side for a pace or so, snarling irascibly. I then fired
another shot at his rear, which must have penetrated him nearly
longitudinally. Badly wounded and almost breaking down,

i?4 In the Heart of Africa

he dragged himself some thirty paces further to some bushes,
where he fell. Approaching nearer to give him his quietus,
I found this to be unnecessary, for the lion was dead.

When I sighted this animal there was plenty of wild game
near, yet I did not notice that the proximity of their enemy
caused them any uneasiness. I therefore do not share the view
that the small game disperse in wild flight when a lion appears.
On many occasions I have from a distance observed a lion moving
round in the grasses of a plain abounding with game, yet I only
noticed signs of uneasiness amongst the antelopes stationed
immediately in the marauder's path or browsing near. Animals
further away contented themselves with merely a careful glance.
But I have never seen the creatures excited on hearing the roar
of "the king of beasts."

I do not desire to put my readers' patience to too great
a test, and so will mention briefly that on the next day some
of the carriers, whilst searching for wood in the immediate
neighbourhood of the camp, came across three lionesses and four
big cubs sleeping in a gully of the gorge already mentioned.
Unfortunately, the man who brought me the news arrived at
the very moment that I bagged a reed-buck for our larder, and
though I was on the same side of the ravine as that where the
lions lay, I was quite unconscious of their presence. The camp
was immediately in commotion, and everyone was gazing atten-
tively towards the spot where the lions, roused by the shot, were
fleeing.

Again my mood was hardly of the merriest, for had the man
reached me a few seconds before I fired my shot at the reed-
buck, I should without doubt have easily got within good
shooting distance. As it was, I only succeeded in hitting a
young lioness after a lengthy chase, who, injured by a wound
in the intestines, concealed herself in a thicket, and was found
dead the following day.

Returning from the search for her body, I shot a leopard,
the only specimen I have ever encountered in Africa by daylight.
This little incident was not without a trace of piquancy, for,

BUFFALO COW KILLED AT THE MOUTH OF THE RUTSGHURU

A BUFFALO KILLED ON THE RUTSCHURU PLAIN

To Lake Albert Edward i?5

having followed the blood trail, I espied the spotted skin of
the dangerous cat gleaming through the foliage of a bush, and
as I took aim it sprang out at me like a flash of lightning. A
very lucky snap-shot, which pierced its neck, settled the matter,
and it rolled dead almost at my feet.

We now shifted our camp further north. In order to reach
the spot, Veriter and Weidemann had occupied themselves with
the Askari for a few days previously in throwing a bridge very
dexterously over a small but very deep tributary of the
Rutschuru. This had proved itself to be necessary for the con-
veyance of the loads. Shortly before, Raven had been com-
pelled to reach the further bank by swimming.

The landscape to the north of this small river had some-
thing of a park-like character about it. We pitched our tents
very widely apart under some fine old acacias, and connected
them by narrow paths which we cut through the knee-high grass.
Light groups of acacias dotted about almost conjured up visions
of some fine old English park.

The land became more densely overgrown towards the eastern
side. Near the Sultan Kikamero's village the vegetation at times
assumed the character of a forest preserve. In these places we
often caught sight of hamlets encircled by barricades of thorn.
In earlier days the western margin of the steppe is stated to
have been much more thickly populated ; and it is said that the
lion pest drove the people away. As a matter of fact, we passed
by many places where potsherds and fragments of all sorts lay
scattered around, and where the ground plan of a former village
was still recognisable in spite of the choking brushwood.

Towards the north the ground, which is much riven with
clefts, falls away gradually to Lake Albert Edward, and there
again assumes the aspect of the steppe. Numerous shell remains
indicated that we were on the ancient sea-floor, and that the
waters of the lake must at one period have completely covered
the district. From here we could already recognise the sparkling
surface of Lake Albert Edward, and, aided by a telescope, we
could descry the vast hosts of pelicans which inhabit the white

176 In the Heart of Africa

islands and the sand-banks at the mouth of the Rutschuru, or
swim around and fish in great flocks.

Bush-buck and buffalo were strongly represented. The
species of buffalo that we saw almost daily on the open steppe,
or chanced across in the light bush, showed some similarity to
that of the Kaffir buffalo. The horns had strong projections,
but were rather more compact than the East African variety,
and the points inclined more upwards. One fine creature killed
by Schubotz in the course of an afternoon's " saunter " in the
neighbourhood of the camp had a breadth of horn over the
forehead of 33 centimetres and a span of 106 centimetres.

Generally speaking, the colour of the buffalo we found in
the Congo State was dark. The smaller western breed, with
horns lying over towards the back, formed in the main no ex-
ception to this rule, though a lighter colour was much more
common here than amongst the Rutschuru animals. Mildbraed
sighted a herd of some forty buffalo later on the eastern margin
of the great forest near Kifuku, which gave a variegated and
chequered impression through its mixture of shades. As the
lighter coloured ones were mostly smaller than the darker, it
might, perhaps, be correct to assume that the lighter coat in-
dicates the young of the herd. For this reason I doubt the
accuracy of the designation " red buffalo " that is frequently
applied to the western type.

This abundance of big game was most lucky for us, for our
scanty stores of provisions was noticeably diminishing, and the
fresh meat of these large animals enabled us to eke them out.
We had had no sugar or milk for some ten days, and our tins
of preserves had greatly dwindled. The supplies for our
carriers, too, were in rather a critical condition. It was quite
out of the power of the natives of the f?w inhabited spots on
the eastern marginal mountains to supply us with stores, and
as the nearest depot was at the northern end of the lake, nothing
remained but to strike camp and advance at a somewhat quicker
rate.

During the last night of our stay we were treated to a

To Lake Albert Edward 177

genuine African farewell concert of such power and grandeur
that our regret at departure from a country that had so
much to offer was greatly increased. Five lions howled and
roared the whole night long outside our camp, so that sleep
was out of the question, and we sat up on our couches listening.
Then when the piercing cries of a trapped hyena, almost human
in tone, rang out, there was such a scene that I rushed from
the tent into the bright moonlight in order to make sure that no
human life had been sacrificed.

I could not deny myself the pleasure of one little excursion
in the vicinity of the nocturnal concert. Following up three new
trails we had our lions before us before an hour had passed.
Whilst two of the creatures rapidly fled, one lioness ensconced
herself in a ditch grown over with tall brushwood. Shouts and
stones proving equally futile to induce the beast to leave her
lurking-place, we had recourse to a well-tried expedient which
never fails — we fired the bush. Some commotion amongst the
foliage followed. The shaking of the leaves and furious
growling showed plainly how unwilling the brute was to leave
her hiding-place. Not until the fire, which was burning badly
in the damp atmosphere, had almost scorched her hide, did
the lioness appear. She leapt out of the shrub, but, struck by
my bullet, toppled over like a hare the next moment and lay
still. Before she could rise again a final shot in the neck ter-
minated her predatory career.

Returning to the camp, I found Czeczatka and the Belgian
non-commissioned officer Dewatt, wHo had come over from the
Vitschumbi station at the southern end of Lake Albert Edward.
Czeczatka had been commissioned to march direct to Vitschumbi
with all superfluous loads, and to set out from there to find us.
Dewatt brought fresh vegetables, and Czeczatka had a case of
stores, which happily put an end for the time being to our most
pressing needs.

Gradually getting into lower altitudes, we reached the
southern banks of Lake Albert Edward on the 28th of November.
The nearer one reaches the lake, the shorter grows the grass and

178 In the Heart of Africa

the greater become the deposits of debris and shells, evidences
that the country was formerly under water.

The plains gradually dip into the watery surface, from the
slimy subsoil of which thickets of reeds and rushes shoot up and
border the southern parts of the banks as with a broad ribbon.

The ornithological wealth of this part of Africa is amazing.
Pelicans move about in thousands on the southern banks of the
estuary of the Rutschuru, and sport peacefully amongst the
numerous hippopotami in the narrow dry places. The hoarse cry
of the heron is intermingled with the dull tones of the bittern, or
mire-drum, and the snow-white plumage of the ardea nobilis con-
trasts effectively with the dark green of the reeds. The swarms
of marsh and water-hens are indescribable as they flit light-footed
to and fro on the water grasses and fearlessly suffer the approach
of our folding boat, whilst the air is filled with immense hosts of
white and grey gulls. Wild duck and geese of the most varied
species rush through the air with whistling and flapping of wings.
There is a twittering and chattering of innumerable little
songsters amongst the reeds, and on the margin the rosy tantalus
ibis, in company with the marabou, fishes warily for his sustenance
in the shallow water.

Picture to yourself the evening scene : The yellow steppe
covered with sappy-green trees surrounded by mountains
shadowed by black clouds, which rumble and flash ; then sud-
denly the blood-red sun shoots forth, and illumines the whole,
painting the cloud-edges pink. The beautiful tints of a rainbow
suddenly gleam out. Gazing at all these splendid tones of
colour, which are reflected again on the water, one doubts whether
the richest palette which painter ever held could reproduce such
magnificence.

Thanks to the courtesy of the Belgian officers, the two Congo-
lese Government steel boats stationed on the lake were placed at
our disposal for our journey across. A number of native boats
also awaited us. As they were only able to take a small part of
our loads, Weidemann was commissioned to conduct the main
caravan along the east bank to Kissenji, which we hoped to reach

MOOR ANTELOPES

THE SOUTHERN END OF LAKE ALBERT EDWARD AT KATANA

To Lake Albert Edward i?9

after a boat journey of two days. Dewatt wished to accompany
Weidemann thither. Czeczatka was instructed to set out on the
difficult march by way of the western marginal mountains to
Kasindi. Weidemann and his caravan were compelled to make
long detours because the road to the south-east of the lake was
closed by extensive swamps, which swarmed with hippopotami.
All things considered, this march promised to be far from enjoy-
able, as the surface of the lake had risen through frequent down-
pours of rain during the last few days, and had overflowed the
banks. No choice was left, however, and the caravan set off on
its journey, accompanied by the somewhat ironical good wishes
of those who remained behind.

Next day, as our small flotilla glided along the eastern banks,
we passed great herds of hippopotami lying lazily in the hot sun
on the sand-banks or stretching their coarse heads out of the water,
puffing and snorting noisily.

As all the boats have to be propelled by means of long poles,
we always kept in the shallow water close to the banks. The
fishing folk venture very reluctantly into the middle of the lake,
and with good reason, for the squalls which frequently rise churn
up the water into large waves, which seriously imperil the fragile
and usually leaky boats. The boats on Lake Albert Edward
were of a very different type from those which we had previously
met with. Isolated specimens of dug-outs are occasionally seen,
but the majority of these craft are fashioned out of thin planks
joined together with bast fibre. As this primitive method of
boat-building is very inadequate, the water sometimes streams
through the side planks in heavy jets, and has to be bailed out
constantly during a journey.

We landed at the small village of Katanda after a voyage of
five hours in the glowing heat. The construction of the place
afforded quite a new and remarkable sight to us, for resting on
rafts, it floated in the centre of a creek of the lake abounding in
reeds and rushes. Unfortunately the population had fled in fear
at our approach. No human being could be seen ; only a few
hungry dogs howled dismally from the roofs of the huts. As we

180 In the Heart of Africa

entered the village the ground rocked at every step, and at the
edge even sank below the water line. In the centre it was stable.
As the inhabitants, who belonged to the Wakingwa race, had
nearly all their household effects with them, we came across little
worthy of mention excepting some beautiful plaited work. As
there was no one from whom we could make purchases, we left
everything standing in the huts as we found it.

Hot as it had been during the first days of the journey, we
were to experience cold later. A few minutes after our departure
from the floating village a torrential storm of such violence broke
over us that further progress was impossible.

Being unable to make any headway against the storm, or to
see ahead of us on account of the streaming rain, the boats were
soon piled on the shore, with their bottoms turned towards the
slant of the rain. So we remained sitting in our boats with the
waves splashing up over the gunwales. We had to sit still
until the raging gale subsided, for no human efforts were of any
avail in the face of such an outburst. The storm, as usual, did
not last long, but a fine rain kept drizzling on for some time,
which sufficed to chill us in our thin clothes, which were wet
through in spite of our mackintoshes.

Presently a small boat propelled by two men with long poles
came swiftly towards us. " JBarua, bana — letters, master," they
cried. A heavy bag was handed over and immediately opened.
It was the European mail, greetings from home, which reached us
there in so strange a fashion. They shortened our lengthy
journey in a most agreeable fashion, for it was four o'clock in the
afternoon, after ten hours' travelling, before we sighted the huts
of the small hamlet of Kissenji lying ahead. There we landed,
glad to be able to stretch our stiffened limbs.

We remained one day for Weidemann's caravan, which we had
arranged to meet here. It came along late in the evening in a
perfectly exhausted condition. They had had a hard time of it.
The floods had assumed unexpected dimensions. For hours the
men had been forced to wade along in water up to their thighs,
and in places even up to their necks ; the mules and dogs had to

THE FLOATING VILLAGE OF KATANDA, LAKE ALBERT EDWARD

INTERIOR VIEW OF THE FLOATING VILLAGE OF KATANDA

To Lake Albert Edward 181

swim. Ropes had to be stretched across the deepest places, by
aid of which the carriers, who could hardly touch the bottom, had
to feel their way. Occasionally they floundered into holes, and
momentarily disappeared with their loads under the surface of
the water. Although the memory of this very unpleasant march
will doubtless long remain with them, none of them, fortunately,
sustained permanent injury.

I profited by the day's rest we allowed ourselves to make a
little excursion into the interior, but found nothing of remarkable
interest. After going over a terrace-shaped formation we reached
a high-lying plain, where we came upon some straw mattresses,
bearing witness to the activity of the English Boundary Survey
Commission, which had been working there about six months pre-
viously. The question at the time had been a re-examination
with respect to the thirtieth degree longitude, which marked the
boundary between the Belgian and the English territories, as some
dissension had arisen between the two countries with regard to its
true position. The British as well as the Belgian Commissions
entrusted with the work had meanwhile moved further north, and
were quartered on the River Semiliki in the neighbourhood of
Ruwenzori.

The population there is fairly large. Agriculture and the
breeding of small stock are the chief pursuits. The natives know
how to make the latter pretty lucrative, as the prices for sheep
and goats often run exceedingly high. Whilst we only had to
pay very moderate prices in German territory, the prices here rose
to two or three doti ; that is, four to six arm-lengths of stuff, three
to five rupees in value. This rise in prices is increasing constantly
in districts inhabited by Europeans. Thus, for instance, at
Stanleyville and also on the Aruwimi a sheep costs twenty-five to
thirty -six francs, a fowl or duck five francs. As such high prices
would have ruined our treasury, and as we could not take a herd
of small stock with us, the feeding of our caravan followers
became a difficult question. Lieutenant von Wiese endeavoured
here, where the prices might still be called moderate, to acquire a
small stock, which would provide us with meat until we reached

1 82 In the Heart of Africa

the Aruwimi district. The shyness which the people of Waronda
and Wasongora first exhibited made this awkward to arrange.
However, on our putting the matter before Sultan Kasigano at
Ruisamba, where we arrived the following day, he was persuaded
to send us a few animals.

Ethnographical material was scanty and of little interest.
This district forms, as it were, the boundary of the eastern and
western types and languages. We therefore met again many
people with whom our stay at Lake Kiwu and Uganda had made
us familiar both with their forms and language ; but we came
across a few special peculiarities.

The Wasongora just mentioned should really be called
Bakondjo, for according to Czekanowski's researches Wasangora
is a common designation for people with pointed teeth. Kusan-
gora meno simply means " pointing the teeth " ; and Usongora
would be the land where the inhabitants chip their teeth to points
by means of an iron chisel, a habit frequently met with among the
Bakondjo. Now, as the pointing of the teeth is a typical feature
of all tribes who indulge in cannibalism, we may not be far wrong
in assuming that the Bakondjo were formerly addicted to this
ghastly practice, even if they have now abandoned it. This is all
the more probable, as cannibalism is still in full swing in some
parts, as, for instance, in the entire region of the primeval forest.

The pest of gnats and flies at Kissenji and on the steep banks
of Lake Albert Edward was simply dreadful. Myriads of tiny,
little insects buzzed in the air the instant the dawn broke. They
appeared in such hosts and covered the tables, the tents and their
inner sides in such dense masses, that my pencil was continually
rubbing the creatures into the pages of my diary and making the
writing quite illegible. At supper time we were always com-
pelled to set up the lamp on cases ten paces away in order to
protect the soup from the crowd of descending insects. The tents
had to be pitched close to the edge of the water, almost touching
the reed masses, on account of the swampy ground ; and such an
unpleasant smell made itself apparent that our stay became
utterly intolerable.

A CANNIBAL FROM THE BORDER MOUNTAINS OF THE CONGO

STATE

To Lake Albert Edward 183

At Ruisamba a number of boats were lying on the beach, and
these we requisitioned for the passage across the elongated arm of
Lake Albert Edward. But out of the large number of craft there
were very few capable of reaching the opposite banks without first
going under. Most of them proved to be so leaky, that it was
impossible to put loads into them. Thus our transit in the few
intact boats lasted some hours. In consequence, we set up our
camp quite close to the shore on a high-lying plateau, which com-
manded a splendid view over a wide part of the lake. We were
not left long in the enjoyment of the fine prospect, for soon the
lowering clouds rolled themselves together threateningly, and a
storm of hurricane nature swept down over the lake, lashing and
churning its waters. It rushed over the camp, threatening to
upset all the tents, and ended by ripping off the roof of our
mess-tent and carrying it high into the air.

Travelling by way of Njama Kasana — where elephants were
once numerous, but latterly have retired more to the Semiliki plain
— Kasindi was reached on the 6th of December after we had
passed through a broad euphorbiaceous steppe. Monsieur Boisac,
the Chef de paste, received us at the top of the terrace-shaped
formation on which the village is situated.

Kasindi is quite a recent and but a temporary station. The
houses are built of a light material — matete* — and had fallen
badly into disrepair in consequence of the violent storn. In parts
they had to be kept from falling down by strong beams. Vermin
of every description housed there, the rats whisked about the
place as we messed, and their feet could be seen in the canvas
cover spread as a canopy, like those of rope-dancers in a net.

The station itself lies en a desolate, treeless steppe, and is just
an hour's distance from the lake, which can be overlooked for
miles around. A small wood of acacias, which is a frequent
haunt of elephants, extends from below the station to the shores
of the lake. Away over the ranges of low hills which close
Kasindi in on the northern side, the snow-capped summits of the
Ruwenzori chain, which may be seen for a few moments in the
• Matete. elephant grass about | inch thick.

1 84 In the Heart of Africa

early morning hours, formed the sole point of attraction for the
roving eye.

The force stationed at Kasindi consists of about a hundred
men, who are quartered in a special village (Askaridorf) near by.
We only saw a small number of them, as the remainder had been
despatched to re-erect the St. Gustave Mission Station, which lies
a few hours away to the north.

As we had some time in hand before our conference with the
other members of the expedition at Christmas, and as reports and
mail matter had been attended to, we used the few days at our
disposal to make excursions on the Semliki. From reports of the
natives of " many sick people " and of the tsetse-fly being preva-
lent, we expected to find many cases of sleeping sickness, and
resolved to devote our outing to an examination of the blood of
the inhabitants of the Semliki valley.

As we also hoped to come across a good many elephants and
much game, we took a sufficient number of test tubes with us,
such as are used in medicine, for collecting specimens of blood
from cuts or wounds for microscopical examination.

It was very important that we should use all the means in our
power to examine the blood of any elephants we might kill,
and discover whether it contained the germs of sleeping sickness.
Through Raven's efforts, ably assisted by Weidemann, many
hundreds of the shore dwellers on Lake Albert Edward, particu-
larly on the Semliki side, were subjected to examination. Indica-
tions of trypanosomce, however, were not discovered. Unfor-
tunately we were unable to carry out the examination of the
elephants, as Raven met with an accident just as he was about
to begin the microscopic investigation, and was confined to his
couch for months.

There can be no doubt as to the activity and danger of the
sleeping sickness in these districts, for in an isolated little house
in Kasindi there were two patients, husband and wife, whom we
visited daily and in whom Raven interested himself a good deal.
The wasting effect of the terrible disease could be clearly observed
on this couple. When we first arrived the patients were able to

To Lake Albert Edward 185

move about and cook their provisions without any assistance, but
after ten days such a change for the worse set in that they simply
sat in their huts absolutely inert and helpless, with staring eyes
and limp hands. As we were unable to aid them, they grew
rapidly worse, and in fourteen days they succumbed to the
disease.

This terrible evil, the spread of which has only been checked
in a limited degree by the use of atoxyl, claims a vast number of
human victims annually in the Congo State. The Government
endeavours to suppress the malady with all the means at its
command. The praiseworthy intentions of the State are, how-
ever, terribly handicapped by the apathy of the natives, who will
not place themselves in the hands of the white man. Although
later on we saw some excellently organised infirmaries in the
Congo territory, they are only as a drop in the ocean, and the
number of their inmates only forms a fraction of the sick popula-
tion wasting to death far from human help in the dark depths
and damp decay of the virgin forest.

The sport in the valley of the Semliki can hardly be com-
pared to that of the Rutschuru valley, yet water-buck, moor-
antelope, and reed-buck may often be seen. The abundance of
elephants, on the other hand, exceeded all expectations. I cannot
remember a day on which I did not sight one. At night time we
could often hear them tramping round in the vicinity of the camp
and the peculiar noise they make in browsing. In the morning
we frequently discovered fresh traces left by them during the
night in immediate proximity to the camp. Yet we did not even
take the trouble to follow them up, but simply made for the
clearer places in the acacia forest on the open bank, where they
used to congregate rather later in the morning. Occasionally we
met troops of four to eight, and sometimes herds of forty to fifty.

The Congo State endeavours as far as is possible to protect
its enormous stock of living ivory, its main export. To this end
it has created great reserves, in which the capture and killing of
the animals is prohibited. On account of the difficulty of con-
trol, particularly in the vast forest districts, such prohibition is

1 86 In the Heart of Africa

constantly set at nought. Yet these reserves are of use, for the
natives know that they will be heavily punished in cases of
infringement of the laws should they be detected. Those
elephants which make serious havoc in the banana fields may be
killed by special permission. European hunters are not allowed
to enter the Congo territory without producing their licences from
Brussels, and even then special sanction is needed for the killing
of an elephant. A departure from this rule was made in favour
of myself and the members of the expedition in a very obliging
manner, so that we were enabled to devote a few exceedingly
pleasant days to hunting the most mighty beast existing.

From among the many exciting incidents and interesting
episodes which occurred, I take the following :

At daybreak on the i8th of December Veriter and I proceeded
to the farther bank of the Semliki in order to enlist as guide the
youthful chief of a settlement which lay in a deep gorge. We
were going after a herd of elephants that day, expecting to find
them five hours' journey farther northwards, where they haunted
the banana plantations of a hamlet lying close to the river. The
animals were so daring, that they not only destroyed the banana
trees in the front of the village, but even attacked the huts. A
man told us that he had had to fly from his dwelling whilst an
elephant was tearing off the thatched roof. When we arrived the
animals had left the immediate neighbourhood of the village,
but our guide soon brought us in sight of the herd. We
observed seven animals, one of whom, to all appear-
ances a very powerful bull, detached himself from the
rest and made rapidly for the protecting forest. Pursuit was
useless, so we let him go. We then turned to the six others,
whose massive, colossal bodies stood out in marked relief against
a broad grass patch, which had been burnt away the day before
and was now coal-black. As the scene made a splendid picture
for the camera, I stalked up with that only in my hand, my boy
with my gun close behind, to a bush near the elephants, when the
pachyderms caught our scent, trod uneasily to and fro, and then
lumbered off amidst a cloud of dust towards the Semliki. Two

WOUNDED ELEPHANT ON THE SEMLIKI

.

LAKE ALBERT EDWARD AT NJAMA KASANA

To Lake Albert Edward 187

shots hurriedly discharged at the hindmost animal caused it to
circle about twice, but were not enough to upset it ; then it joined
the troop and fled with them. We followed at the double as far
as a terrace-shaped declivity, where the steppe ended at the river,
whose bank was overgrown with dense reed and swamp grass.
Here we came upon the troop again, which had waded into the
river, but apparently could not make up its mind to cross it.

The animal, which had previously been wounded, was unable
to follow with the troop, and as Veriter, who had kept his wind
best, came up and gave him another bullet through the head, it
collapsed and lay as if dead. A carrier rushed up overjoyed,
and with one cut divided the tail from the body. The hairs of
the tail of an elephant are much prized by the natives ; ornaments
of all sorts, bracelets, neck adornments, etc., are fashioned from
them. At the moment, however, that the carrier flourished the
severed trophy in the air the supposed dead elephant furiously
rose up and perceived his assailant. I arrived just in time to
obtain a photographic picture of this indescribably comical scene,
this abrupt transformation of the joy of victory into deadly
fear. Whilst the carriers scurried away in all directions,
Veriter stood in perplexity before his opponent, searching all his
pockets in vain for cartridges, with which he had thoughtlessly
provided himself too sparsely. But the elephant was so injured
that no further danger was to be apprehended from him, and on
receiving a further shot from my rifle in the shoulder he rolled
slowly over on to his side and expired.

I then followed up the remainder of the herd, and soon caught
sight of a fine bull, who had already received a few bullets from
me, standing alone and badly hurt at the edge of a small island
in the river. First I took a couple of snapshots with my hand
camera at about 120 metres' distance, and then I fired at him
again. The elephant first advanced a few steps up on to the
island, and then proceeded slowly through the tall reed-grass
invisible to me, and through the stream on to the bank, where,
after passing through some more grass, he finally reappeared at
a considerable distance away. As a broad swamp now separated

1 88 In the Heart of Africa

us, I essayed in spite of the distance to bring him down with a
bullet. This, however, only resulted in his spreading his enor-
mous ears after each shot and throwing back his trunk aggres-
sively. As he then threatened to vanish in the reed-grass, I
decided in spite of the unfavourable wind, which carried my
scent towards him, to cross the swamp till I got near and could
venture a finishing shot. The way through the morass was
terribly difficult, and we frequently got stuck up to our knees,
in addition to which a fire which had raged round that part not
long before had covered everything with a thick layer of soot,
so that we were, or, rather, I was, soon unrecognisable with dirt,
for my sole followers, the Askari, Abdullah, and my boy
Mambo, were very little altered by the addition of the soot.

We finally worked our way through, and felt firm ground
under our feet once more ; but we had got into a belt of matete,
which shot up nearly twelve feet high and prevented our seeing
any distance in front of us. Nothing was to be seen of the
elephant. In order to get a better view I climbed on to
Abdullah's shoulders. But although a voice at my rear warned
me, and a man on the terrace-sloped bank signed to me with his
hands that the elephant was close by, I could only perceive a
slight movement amongst the tops of the grasses. Believing the
elephant to be badly hurt, I decided to approach closer. We
had not gone many more steps when we became aware of rustling,
crackling, and trampling sounds in the bushes, and knew that the
creature had scented us and was preparing to charge. Unable
amongst the tall matete to discern anything, we retraced our steps
somewhat in order to get into freer ground. My two followers,
however, lost their heads in the presence of the approaching
danger, and instead of following me they decamped as quickly
as possible, reaching a spot where they found their further
passage barred by the stout stalks of the tall grasses. Here they
got entangled, and in a desperate attempt to free themselves
Mambo fell and carried Abdullah with him. At the same
moment the mighty head of the elephant appeared with trunk
extended. Perceiving the imminent peril, Abdullah put a leaden

ELEPHANT KILLED ON THE SEMLIKI, DECEMBER 15, 1907

THE SEMLIKI AT ITS POINT OF ISSUE FROM LAKE ALBERT EDWARD

THE AUTHOR WITH THE TUSKS OF THE

ELEPHANT KILLED ON THE SEMLIKI,

DEC. 15, 1907

HEIGHT OF TUSKS - 2'53 AND 2'51 METRES (8 FT. 3£ IN.

AND 8 FT. 2| INJ
WEIGHT - 98 AND 94 POUNDS

To Lake Albert Edward 189

bullet through his forehead at a distance of one pace only, which,
however, only caused the elephant to kneel down and try to bore
Mambo with his tusks. Unsuccessful in this, he seized the youth
by the straps of the cartridge pouch, and tossed him high into
the air.

I was unaware of these proceedings, as in my attempts to let
the elephant pass I had slipped aside and fallen in the swampy
ground again, where I stuck fast and could not move. I heard
the cries and whimpers of my boy, and naturally struggled with
all my might to free myself from the sludge and run to his aid.
At the same moment the colossal form of the elephant burst
crashing out of the matete, making straight for me. Fortunately
a small shrub concealed me from his view ; but to my dismay,
lying on the elephant's tusks and held firmly by its rolled trunk,
I observed a black body covered with torn -up reeds and grasses,
and saw in a flash that Mambo was in a desperate fix. We were
both in a most perilous position. If I succeeded in giving the
elephant a mortal wound, and it fell to the ground, my boy's
body would invariably be crushed. I had seen this occur in the
case of a female elephant and her young. Should the elephant
not succumb, he would doubtless first kill the boy and then me,
as in my helpless condition I was practically at his mercy.

All these considerations flashed through my brain like a streak
of lightning, but the elephant anticipated my conclusions, for
when he was only five paces distant from me he seized Mambo
firmly, and threw him some yards away into the tall grass, where
the unfortunate wight lay groaning. Then, extending his ears
wide, he rushed madly past me, a small bush alone dividing us,
and disappeared in the matete. Mambo owed his life solely to
the fact of the creature being badly injured, as, if the elephant
had been in the possession of his full power, he would have not
omitted the practice of his kind of trampling his enemy to death.
These last efforts had no doubt overtaxed the severely
wounded animal. A little later we heard it collapse and succumb
with long-drawn, wailing sounds.

Having at length succeeded in extricating myself from the

i9° In the Heart of Africa

swamp, I contrived to get the almost unconscious Mambo into a
place of safety. The poor fellow was in sorry plight. He had
sustained a number of contusions, and was unable to walk. With
great difficulty we carried him through the swamp on to the firm
ground, and there we prepared a stretcher, on which we laid him.
I collected my guns, camera, and cartridges, which lay strewn
about ; the stock of the gun was splintered, but luckily the camera
had not suffered much; even the plate (facing page 186), which
shows the elephant before the attack, had not suffered by the
flight through the air. The next thing to be done was to cut
out the tusks, a task which made no small demands on our time
and strength. Late in the afternoon we were able to think of
getting homewards, and reached the camp at length in perfect
darkness after an uninterrupted march of five hours along the
banks of the Semliki and after an absence of fourteen hours,
during which time we had not rested for a moment. Two hours
later the ambulance came in with Mambo. The negro's strong
constitution brought him through ; he progressed towards re-
covery every day, and after the lapse of a week he was able to
resume his duties.

On the evening of the day after the hunting incident just
related we were witnesses of a most thrilling display of natural
fire-works. A steppe fire of unusual dimensions spread over the
whole horizon, and traced out the contours of the mountains in
an unbroken fiery line against the heavens.

In this district the natives kindle fires in order to clear the
ground of the older grass-growths, and so make room for the
fresh luscious young grass which game find so appetising. The
latter, particularly the elephant, stand in no fear of fire, but
assemble gladly at such spots to graze on the tender new shoots.

Generally speaking, the steppe fires are of an absolutely harm-
less nature, but once, on Christmas Eve, they nearly proved fatal
to us. An immense line of fire rolled over the mountain ridges,
making direct for the thatched roofs of Kasindi. The phenome-
non being an everyday one, we took no notice at first, but

To Lake Albert Edward 19 l

suddenly we observed that the flying flames were only a few
hundred metres distant from the dwellings. We summoned the
Askari and carriers in furious haste, and started out to meet the
sea of flame. After two hours' hard work we succeeded in beating
out the heart of the conflagration. The two long tongues on
either side, however, darted raging along to the right and left of
the station.

On the 24th of December all our members, excepting Kirsch-
stein, whose work in the volcanic region had rendered an exten-
sion of leave necessary, gathered together at Kasindi for a
Christmas festivity. Christmas Eve passed very pleasantly.
We Europeans met together at a common repast, and spent the
remainder of the evening with a gramophone accompaniment
beneath the lights of a Christmas tree fashioned by von Wiese
out of the boughs of an acacia. A few glasses of grog assisted
us to conjure up the festive spirit of Christmas, which it was
difficult to realise amidst the green environment and the soft
summer air.

And so, after a few days of zealous industry, the New Year
drew near. We were able to look back full of gratitude on the
year that had passed, and to anticipate the coming one full of
hope. Each of my fellow-workers could gladly testify that,
although labouring under many privations and the severest self-
restraint, he had been successful in solving various new problems
and in winning fresh fields of investigation for German science.

On New Year's Day Schubotz and I undertook an excursion,
which was intended to extend over several days, to Njama
Kasana for the purpose of fishing for plankton, dredging, and
generally devoting our attention to the fauna of the lake. We
only took a very small number of followers to erect the tents,
one boy each and a cook, so that we were able to enjoy an undis-
turbed time without being subjected to the worries which are
inseparable from travelling with a caravan.

From there we visited Katwe, a place of particular interest,
which is situated on a salt inland lake, and is only divided from

i92 In the Heart of Africa

Lake Albert Edward by a narrow, steeply rising neck of land.
At first sight the place offers an extraordinary aspect. The won-
derful wine-red colouring of the water spread out at our feet like
a sea of blood, the blue canopy of the heavens, separated by the
yellow sand dunes from the ruddy water, presented a curious
contrast such as we were hardly likely to meet with again.

The volume of water in the lake is considerably less than it
was at one time. This can be seen at once from the salt deposits,
which cover the banks to the height of several metres. The depth
of the water does not amount even to a metre. This retrogression
appears to have a close association with the steady diminution
of the water of Lake Albert Edward, the two lakes being
connected by subterranean confluents. As the bed of the salt
lake lies considerably higher than that of Lake Albert Edward,
its entire evaporation within a measurable space of time is quite
conceivable. In consequence of the retrogression and the steady
evaporation of its surface water, thick deposits have accumulated
on its bed, which in the course of time have consolidated into a
thick encrustation of salt. The salt is simply gathered up by a
number of men, who enter the water absolutely naked and wade
about collecting it. It is then packed on sledge-shaped boats,
which are drawn up on to the land by other workers. Here
powerful arms seize upon it, sort it out, and heap it up in
pyramids of a metre high. After being broken into very small
pieces it is stored in small sheds thatched with straw till it is
ready for exportation.

The following method is also adopted : On the two sides of
a small ditch, flat basins, or troughs, of three to five metres square
are fashioned by heaping up sand and clay. These are filled
with about a foot of water taken from the ditch by means of a
scoop or by hand. The power of the sun causes the water in the
various divisions to evaporate so rapidly, that after the expira-
tion of six days only a salt residue remains at the bottom. The
salt thus obtained is finer and whiter than that which is broken
away from the bed of the lake, and therefore commands a higher
price. The quantities obtained are very considerable, and not

SALT PYRAMIDS AT KATWE

SALT PANS AT KATWE

To Lake Albert Edward 193

only supply a great part of Central Africa, but also find their
way to the west coast of Lake Victoria, to Entebbe, and to
Bukoba.

From what I have just described it will be seen that Katwe is
a place of great commercial importance, so that it was no cause
for surprise that some difference of opinion should have arisen as
to the position of the thirtieth degree of longitude, which passes
directly through it, and forms the boundary line between the
British territory and the Congo State. Before the discovery of
this valuable spot the meridian ran by it on its eastern side, so
that its incorporation in the Congo State was undoubted. Yet
after its discovery the British Colonial Office came to the con-
clusion that a very grave error in surveying had been committed.
A very clever astronomer then succeeded in shifting the longi-
tudinal degree to the west of Katwe, so that the town fell into
British territory. On this justifiable doubts arose in the minds of
the Belgians concerning the accuracy of the latest survey. In
order to arrive at a final settlement of the matter, Belgian and
British Commissions were again sent out, and their labours were
just concluding when we arrived on the scene. These two com-
missions had transferred the seat of their energies to the north of
the Semliki, but we were privileged a little later on, shortly before
they returned to their homes, to be entertained in both their camps
in the most cordial and hospitable manner.

At present the monopoly of the salt industry lies in the hands
of Sultan Kasakama of Toro, though after the question of its
national incorporation has been settled once and for all, the
administration of Katwe will probably pass into more expert
hands.

We returned to Kasindi on the 5th of January, and there took
counsel together as to the division of work for the coming months.
Czekanowski was to travel round to the eastward of Ruwenzori,
touching at Toro and Unyoro. Raven was to go to the south of
these mountains, to undertake special work in the land of the
Wasongora. We others intended to follow closely the course of
the Semliki to Beni. We looked to the western slopes of the

194 In the Heart of Africa

Ruwenzori range as well as to the eastern margin of the vast
virgin forest, which reaches nearly as far as Beni, to open up new
fields of exploration to us.

During the past few days large collections had been ticketed,
recorded, and packed ready for despatch. About a hundred
loads lay ready in Kasindi. The carriers who had brought up
fresh stores and were returning home were employed to transport
our treasures to Lake Victoria. As the imposing caravan dis-
appeared down the valley we turned our faces to the north,
towards new paths and fresh aims.

A CONGO SOLDIER FROM THE UELLE

NATIVES CARRYING PROVISIONS

LIBRARY FACILITY

A 001 193643 2