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Full text of "In Korea with Marquis Ito"

IN KOREA 

WITH 

MARQUIS ITO 



IN KOREA 

WITH 

MARQUIS ITO 



PART I 
A NARRATIVE OF PERSONAL EXPERIENCES 

PART II 
A CRITICAL AND HISTORICAL INQUIRY 



BY 

GEORGE TRUMBULL LADD, LL.D. 

n 



LONGMANS, GREEN &CO. 
LONDON :: :: :: :: :: :: :: : : 1908 



Copyright, 1908, by Charles Scribner's Sons, for the 
United States of America 



Printed by the Scribner Press 
New York, U. S. A. 






TO THE 

DEAR COMPANION 

OF ITS EXPERIENCES AND THE 

READY SCRIBE OF MUCH OF ITS MANUSCRIPT 

THIS BOOK IS GRATEFULLY 

AND AFFECTIONATELY 

DEDICATED 



253252 



PREFACE 

THE contents and purposes of this volume may be con- 
veniently classified under three heads; for here are statements 
of fact, expressions of opinion, and certain ventures into the 
realm of conjecture. The statements of fact are, almost 
without exception, made on grounds of personal observation, 
or on the authority of the most competent and trustworthy 
first-hand witnesses. For the earlier periods of the history 
of the relations, friendly or hostile, between Japan and 
Korea, these authorities are indeed no longer living, and they 
cannot be subjected to cross-questioning. But the choice 
between the truth they told and the mistakes and falsehoods 
of a contradictory character is in most cases not difficult to 
make. For events of the present generation the reader will 
find the statements of the witnesses quoted, and of the docu- 
ments cited, to be in general unimpeachable. I believe, 
then, that what is claimed to be truth of fact in this book is 
as nearly exact and worthy of implicit confidence as it is 
ordinarily given to human beings to be in matters pertaining 
to the history of human affairs. 

In expressing my own opinions as to the truth or untruth 
of certain contentions, and as to the merit or demerit of cer- 
tain transactions, I have uniformly tried to base these opin- 
ions upon the fullest obtainable knowledge of the facts. In 
some cases the judgments at which I have been compelled 
to arrive contradict those which have been and still are widely 
current; in some cases they can scarcely fail to be interpreted 
as an impeachment of other writers who have had either a 



viii PREFACE 

narrator's interest only in the same events or even a more 
substantial concernment. I have no wish to deny the apol- 
ogetic character of this book. But at every point the charge 
of being swerved from the truth by prejudice may be met 
with these replies: First, very unusual opportunities were 
afforded the author for ascertaining the truth; and, second, 
in almost every case where the evidence brought forward 
seems insufficient there is much more of the same sort of 
evidence already in his possession, and still more to be had 
for the asking. But in these days one must limit the size of 
such undertakings. Few readers wish to wade through a 
long stretch of shoals in order to reach the firm ground of 
historical verity. 

As to the ventures at conjecture which are sparingly put 
forth, let them be rated at their seeming worth, after the facts 
have been carefully studied and the opinions weighed, which 
have called out these ventures. They are confessedly only 
entitled to a claim for a certain degree, higher or lower, of 
probability. The status of all things in the Far East and 
for the matter of that, all over the civilized world is just 
now so unstable and loaded with uncertainties that no human 
insight can penetrate to the centre of the forces at work, and 
no human foresight can look far into the future. 

The division of the book into two parts may seem at first 
sight to injure its unity. Such a division has for its result, as 
a matter of course, a somewhat abrupt change in the char- 
acter of the material employed and in the style of its handling. 
The First Part is a narrative of personal observations and 
experiences. It gives the results, however, of a serious study 
of a complicated situation; and it pronounces more or less 
confident judgments upon a number of subordinate questions 
involved in the general problem of establishing satisfactory 
relations between two nations which are inseparably bound 
together physically, socially, politically whether for the 



PREFACE ix 

weal or for the woe of both. In the Second Part the attempt 
is made to submit these judgments to the tests of history. 
But what is history? Of no other civilized country than 
Korea is the truth of the cynical saying more obvious that 
much of what has been written as history is lies, arid that most 
of real history is unwritten. All of which has tended to make 
the writer duly appreciate the unspeakable advantage of 
having access to authentic information which, for diplomatic 
and other sufficient reasons, has not hitherto been made 
public. 

The underlying literary and logical unity which binds to- 
gether the two seemingly diverse Parts of the one book is 
made clear by stating in general terms the problem upon 
which it aims to throw light. This problem concerns the 
relations to be established between Japan and Korea a 
question which has for centuries been proposed in various 
imperative and even affective ways to both these nations. 
It is also a question which has several times disturbed greatly 
the entire Orient, and the recent phases of which have come 
near to upsetting the expectations and more deliberate plans 
of the entire civilized world. To lay the foundations, under 
greatly and suddenly changed conditions, of a satisfactory 
and permanent peace, one of the greatest statesmen of the 
Orient is giving with all his mind and heart the later 
years of his eventful life. I hope that this book may make 
its readers know somewhat better what the problem has 
been and is; and what Prince Ito, as Japanese Resident- 
General in Korea, is trying to accomplish for its solution. 

It remains for the Preface only to acknowledge the author's 
obligations. These are so special to one person namely, 
Mr. D. W. Stevens, who has been for some time official 
"Adviser to the Korean Council of State and Counsellor to 
the Resident- General" that without his generous and pains- 
taking assistance in varied ways the Second Part of the book 



x PREFACE 

could never have appeared in its present form. It is hoped 
that this general acknowledgment will serve to cover many 
cases where Mr. Stevens' name is not especially mentioned 
in connection with the text. Grateful acknowledgment is 
also made to Mr. Furuya, the private secretary of the Resi- 
dent-General, for his painstaking translation from the orig- 
inal Japanese or Chinese official documents; to Mr. M. 
Zumoto, editor of the Seoul Press, for varied information on 
many subjects; and to Dr. George Heber Jones for facts and 
suggestions imparted in conversation and embodied in writ- 
ings of his. My obligations to the Resident- General himself, 
for the perfectly untrammelled and unprejudiced opportunity, 
with its complete freedom to ask all manner of questions, 
which his invitation afforded, are, I trust, sufficiently empha- 
sized in the title of the book. Other debts to writers upon 
any part of the field are acknowledged in their proper con- 
nections. 

GEORGE TRUMBULL LADD. 



HAYAMA, JAPAN, 
September, 1907. 



CONTENTS 
CONTENTS OF PART I 

:HAPTER PAGE 

I. THE INVITATION i 

II. FIRST GLIMPSES OF KOREA 15 

III. LIFE IN SEOUL 37 

IV. LIFE IN SEOUL (Continued) 65 

V. THE VISIT TO PYENG-YANG 90 

VI. CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 112 

VII. THE DEPARTURE 139 

VIII. PERSONAL REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 148 



CONTENTS OF PART II 

IX. THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 179 

X. THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL (Continued) . .222 

XI. THE COMPACT . 252 

XII. RULERS AND PEOPLE 280 

XIII. RESOURCES AND FINANCE ....... 300 



PART I 



A NARRATIVE OF PERSONAL 
EXPERIENCES 



IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

PART I 
CHAPTER I 

THE INVITATION 

IT was in early August of 1906 that I left New Haven for a 
third visit to Japan. Travelling by the way of the Great 
Lakes through Duluth and St. Paul, after a stay of two weeks 
in Seattle, we took the Japanese ship Aki Maru for Yoko- 
hama, where we arrived just before the port was closed for 
the night of September 20. Since this ship was making its 
first trip after being released from transport service in con- 
veying the Japanese troops home from Manchuria, and was 
manned by officers who had personal experiences of the war 
to narrate, the voyage was one of uncommon interest. Cap- 
tain Yagi had been in command of the transport ship Kinshu 
Maru when it was sunk by the Russians, off the northeastern 
coast of Korea. He had then been carried to Vladivostok, 
and subsequently to Russia, where he remained in prison 
until the end of the war. Among the various narratives to 
which I listened with interest were the two following; they 
are repeated here because they illustrate the code of honor 
whose spirit so generally pervaded the army and navy of 
Japan during their contest with their formidable enemy. It 
is in reliance on the triumph of this code that those who know 
the nation best are hopeful of its ability to overcome the diffi- 



a.' IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

culties which are being encountered in the effort to establish 
a condition favorable to safety, peace, and prosperity by a 
Japanese Protectorate over Korea. 

At Vladivostok the American Consul pressed upon Captain 
Yagi a sum of money sufficient to provide a more suitable 
supply of food during his journey by rail to Russia. This 
kindly offer was respectfully declined on the sentimental 
ground that, as an officer of Japan, he could not honorably re- 
ceive from a stranger a loan which it was altogether likely he 
would never be able to repay. But when still further urged, 
although he continued to decline the money, he begged only 
the Consul's card, "lest he might himself forget the name or 
die," and so his Government would be unable to acknowledge 
the kindness shown to one of its officers. The card was given, 
sent to Tokyo, and as the Captain supposed the Consul 
was "thanked officially." The first officer, an Englishman, 
who had been in the service of Japan on the Aki Maru, while 
it was used for transporting troops to Manchuria and prison- 
ers on its return, told this equally significant story. His ship 
had brought to Japan as prisoner the Russian officer second 
in command at the battle of Nan-san. Having been wounded 
in the foot, the Russian was, after his capture, carried for a 
long distance by Japanese soldiers, to whom, when they 
reached the hospital tent, he offered a $20 gold-piece. But 
they all refused to receive money from a wounded foe. " If it 
had been Russian soldiers," said this officer of his own coun- 
trymen, "they would not only have taken this money but 
would have gone through my pockets besides." 

Before leaving home only two official invitations had been 
received, namely, to lecture on Education before the teachers 
in the Tokyo branch of the Imperial Educational Society; and 
to give a course in the Imperial University of Kyoto, on a 
topic which it was afterward decided should be the "Philoso- 
phy of Religion." This university was to open in the fol- 



THE INVITATION 3 

lowing autumn a Department of Philosophy (such a forward 
movement having been delayed by the war with Russia). 
Almost immediately on our arrival, a multitude of requests 
for courses of lectures and public addresses came to the com- 
mittee in charge of the arrangements, with the result that the 
six months from October i, 1906, to April i, 1907, were 
crowded full of interesting and enjoyable work. In the inter- 
vals of work, however, there was opportunity left for much 
valuable social intercourse and for meeting with men like 
Togo, Oyama, Noghi, and others in military and business, as 
well as educational circles, whose names and deeds are well 
known all over the civilized world. But it is not the narrative 
of these six months which is before us at the present time, al- 
though doubtless they had a somewhat important influence in 
securing the opportunity and providing the preparation for 
the subsequent visit to Korea. 

The thought of seeing something of the "Hermit King- 
dom" (a title, by the way, which is no longer appropriate) 
had been in our minds before leaving America, only as a some- 
what remote possibility. Not long after our arrival in Japan 
the hint was several times given by an intimate friend, who is 
also in the confidence of Marquis Ito, that the latter intended, 
on his return in mid-winter from Seoul, to invite us to be his 
guests in his Korean residence. It was not, however, until 
the afternoon of December 5 that the invitation was first re- 
ceived. This was at the garden-party given by Marquis 
Nabeshima on his sixty-first birthday. It should be explained 
that every Japanese is born under one of the twelve signs 
corresponding to our sfgns of the Zodiac. When five of these 
periods have been completed the total of sixty years corre- 
sponds with the end of six periods of ten years each a reck- 
oning which is, I believe, of Chinese origin. The fortunate 
man, therefore, may be said to begin life over again; and 
presents such as are ordinarily appropriate only to childhood 



4 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

are entirely in order on such a festal occasion. While walk- 
ing in the beautiful garden, which is of Japanese style but 
much modified by Italian ideals, the private secretary of Mar- 
quis Ito, Mr. Furuya, came to us and announced that his 
chief, who had recently returned from Seoul to Japan, was 
near and wished to see me. After an exchange of friendly 
greetings almost immediately the Marquis said: "I am ex- 
pecting to see you in my own land, which is now Korea"; 
and when I jestingly asked, "But is it safe to be in Korea?" 
(implying some fear of a Russian invasion under his protec- 
torate) he shook his fist playfully in the air and answered: 
"But I will protect you." To this he added, pointing to his 
sword: "You see, I am half -military now." The significance 
of the last remark will be the better understood when it is re- 
membered that from the days of his young manhood to the 
present hour, Ito has always stood for the peaceful policy and 
the cultivation of friendly relations between Japan and all the 
rest of the world. For this reason he has never been the fa- 
vorite of the military party; and he is to-day opposed in his 
administration of Korean affairs by those who would apply 
to them the mailed hand of punishment and suppression rather 
than hold out the friendly but firm hand of guidance and help. 
Even after this interview the real purpose of the invitation 
to visit Korea was not evident. A week later, however, it 
was disclosed by a visit from Mr. Yamada of the Japan 
Times, who came from Marquis Ito to present his request 
more fully and to arrange for a subsequent extended con- 
ference upon the subject. I was then informed, in a general 
way, how it was thought by the Resident-General I might 
be of help to him and to Japan in solving the difficult problem 
of furthering for the Koreans themselves the benefits which 
the existing relations of the two countries made it desirable 
for both to secure. Complaints of various sorts were con- 
stantly being made, not only against individual Japanese, 



THE INVITATION 5 

but also against the Japanese administration, as unjust and 
oppressive to the Koreans, and as selfish and exclusive toward 
other foreigners than its own countrymen. Especially had 
such complaints of late been propagated by American mis- 
sionaries, either directly by letters and newspaper articles, 
or more indirectly by tales told to travellers who, since they 
were only passing a few days in Korea, had neither desire 
nor opportunity to investigate their accuracy. In this way, 
exaggerations and falsehoods were spread abroad as freely 
as one-sided or half-truths. In the office of Resident- General 
the Marquis greatly desired to be absolutely just and fair, 
and to prevent the mistakes, so harmful both to Korea and 
to Japan, which followed the Japanese occupation of Korea 
at the close of the Chino- Japan war. But it was difficult, 
and in most cases impossible, for him even to find out what 
the complaints were; they came to the public ear in America 
and England before he was able to get any indication of 
their existence even. And when his attention was called to 
them in this roundabout fashion, further difficulties, almost 
insuperable, intervened- between him and the authors of 
these complaints; for in most cases it turned out that the 
foreign plaintiffs had no first-hand information regarding the 
truth of the Korean stories. They would not themselves 
take the pains to investigate the complaints, much less would 
they go to the trouble to bring the attention of the Resident- 
General to the matters complained of in order that he might 
use his magisterial authority to remedy them. In respect to 
these, and certain other difficulties, Marquis Ito thought that 
I might assist his administration if I would spend some time 
upon the ground as his guest. 

The nature of this invitation put upon me the responsibility 
of answering two questions which were by no means alto- 
gether easy of solution; and on which it was, from their very 
nature, impossible to get much trustworthy advice. The 



6 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

first of these concerned my own fitness for so delicate and 
difficult but altogether unaccustomed work. The second 
raised the doubt whether I could in this way be more useful 
to Japan and to humanity than by carrying out the original 
plan of spending the spring months .lecturing in Kiushu. 
After consulting with the few friends to whom I could prop- 
erly mention the subject, and reflecting that the judgment of 
His Imperial Majesty, with whom Marquis Itp would doubt- 
less confer, as well as of the Resident-General himself, might 
fairly be considered conclusive, I accepted the invitation; 
but it was with mingled feelings of pleasure and of some- 
what painful hesitation as to how I should be able to succeed. 

The illness of Marquis Ito which, though not serious, com- 
pelled him to retire from the exciting life of the capital city 
to the seaside, and then to the hills, prevented my meeting 
him before I left Tokyo for Kyoto to fulfil my engagements 
in the latter city. But, by correspondence with a friend, I 
was kept informed of the Marquis' plans for his return to 
Korea, and thus could govern my engagements so as to be 
in the vicinity of some point on his route thither, at which 
the meeting with him might take place. 

The expected conference followed immediately after our 
return from one of the most delightful of the many gratifying 
experiences which came to us during our year in Japan. We 
had taken a trip to the village of Hiro Mura, where formerly 
lived Hamaguchi Goryo, the benevolent patron of his village, 
whose act of self-sacrifice in burning his rice straw in order 
to guide the bewildered villagers to a place of safety when 
they were being overwhelmed by a tidal wave in the darkness 
of midnight, has been made the theme of one of Lafcadio 
Hearn's interesting tales. Mr. Hearn, it appears, had never 
visited the locality; and, indeed, we were assured that we 
were the first foreigners who had ever been seen in the village 
streets. A former pupil of mine is at the head of a flourishing 



THE INVITATION 7 

school patronized by the Hamaguchi family; and having 
accepted his invitation, in the name of the entire region, to 
visit them and speak to the school and to the teachers of the 
Prefecture, the cordial greeting, hospitable entertainment, 
and the surpassingly beautiful scenery, afforded a rich reward 
for the three or four days of time required. For, as to the 
scenery, not the drive around the Bay of Naples or along the 
Bosphorus excels in natural beauty the jinrikisha ride that 
surmounts the cliffs, or clings to their sides, above the bay of 
Shimidzu ("Clear Water"); while for a certain picturesque- 
ness of human interest it surpasses them both. On the way 
back to Wakayama for Hiro Mura is more than twenty 
miles, from the nearest railway station three men to each 
jinrikisha, running with scarcely a pause and at a rate that 
would have gained credit for any horse as a fairly good 
roadster, brought us to the well-situated tea-house at Waka- 
no-ura. For centuries the most celebrated of Japanese poets 
have sung the praises of the scenery of this region the boats 
with the women gathering seaweed at low tide, the fishermen 
in the offing, the storks standing on one leg in the water or 
flying above the rushes of the salt marsh. Here we were met 
for tiffin by the Governor of the Prefecture and the mayor of 
the city, and immediately after escorted to the city hall of 
Wakayama, where an audience of some eight hundred, 
officials and teachers, had already assembled. While in the 
waiting-room of this hall, a telegram from Mr. Yokoi was 
handed to me, announcing that Marquis Ito had already 
left Oiso and would reach Kyoto that very evening and 
arrange to see me the next day. 

It was now necessary to change the plan of sight-seeing in 
the interesting castle-town of Wakayama for an immediate 
return to Kyoto. Thus we were taken directly from the 
Hall to the railway station and, on reaching Osaka, hurried 
across the city in time to catch an evening train; an hour 



8 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

later we found our boys waiting, with their jinrikishas, at 
the station in Kyoto. From the hotel in Kyoto I sent word 
at once to Marquis Ito of our arrival and placed myself at his 
command for the long-deferred interview. The messenger 
brought back an invitation for luncheon at one o'clock of the 
next day. 

When we reached the " Kyoto Hotel," at the time appointed 
we were ushered into the room where Marquis Ito, his aide- 
de-camp, General Murata, his attending physician, his 
secretary, and four guests besides ourselves, were already 
gathered. After leaving the luncheon table, we had scarcely 
entered the parlor when the Marquis' secretary said : "The 
Marquis would like to see you in his room." I followed to 
the private parlor, from which the two servants, who were 
laughing and chatting before the open fire, were dismissed by 
a wave of the hand, and pointing me to a chair and seating 
himself, the Marquis began immediately upon the matters for 
conference about which the interview had been arranged. 

His Excellency spoke very slowly but with great distinctness 
and earnestness; this is, indeed, his habitual manner of speech 
whether using English or his native language. The manner 
of speech is characteristic of the mental habit, and the 
established principles of action. In the very first place he 
wished it to be made clear that he had no detailed directions, 
or even suggestions, to offer. I was to feel quite independent 
as to my plans and movements in co-operating with him to 
raise out of their present, and indeed historical, low condition 
the unfortunate Koreans. In all matters affecting the home 
policy of his government as Resident-General, he was now a 
Korean himself; he was primarily interested in the welfare, 
educationally and economically, of these thirteen or fourteen 
millions of wretched people who had been so long and so 
badly misgoverned. In their wish to remain independent he 
sympathized with them. The wish was natural and proper; 



THE INVITATION 9 

indeed, one would be compelled to think less highly of them, 
if they did not have and show this wish. As to foreign 
relations, and as to those Koreans who were plotting with 
foreigners against the Japanese, his attitude was of necessity 
entirely different. He was against these selfish intrigues; he 
was pledged to this attitude of opposition by loyalty to his 
own Emperor, to his own country, and, indeed, to the best 
good fortune for Korea itself. Japan was henceforth bound 
to protect herself and the Koreans against the evil influence 
and domination of foreign nations who cared only to exploit 
the country in their own selfish interests or to the injury of 
the Japanese. When his own countrymen took part in such 
selfish schemes, he was against them, too. 

Again and again did the Resident-General affirm that the 
helping of Korea was on his conscience and on his heart; 
that he cared nothing for criticism or opposition, if only he 
could bring about this desirable result of good to the Koreans 
themselves. He then went on to say that diplomatic negotia- 
tions between Japan and both Russia and France were so 
far advanced that a virtual entente cordiale had already been 
reached. Treaties, formally concluded, would soon, he 
hoped and believed, secure definite terms for the continuance 
of peaceful relations. Japan had already received from 
Russia proposals for such a permanent arrangement; the 
reply of Japan was so near a rapprochement to the proposals of 
Russia as to encourage the judgment that actual agreement 
on the terms of a treaty could not be far away. The situation, 
indeed, was now such that Russia had invited Japan to make 
counter proposals. The present Foreign Minister of Russia 
the Marquis regarded as one of his most trusted friends; 
the Russian Minister was ready, in the name of the Czar, to 
affirm his Government's willingness to abandon the aggressive 
policy toward Korea and Manchuria, in case Japan would, 
on her part, pledge herself to be content with her present 



io IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

possessions. The status quo was, then, to be the basis of the 
new treaties. Great Britain, as Japan's ally, was not only 
ready for this, but was approaching Russia with a view to a 
settlement of the questions in controversy between the two 
nations, in regard to Persia, Afghanistan, and elsewhere, 
where they had common interests. France would, as a nation 
on good terms with both Great Britain and Russia, and as 
herself the friend of peace, gladly agree. He was, then, 
hopeful that in the near future a permanent basis of peace 
for the whole Orient might be secured by concurrence of the 
four great nations most immediately interested. 

To these disclosures of his plans and hopes, so frankly and 
fully made as to excite my surprise, Marquis Ito then added 
the wish that I should at this time, or subsequently while on 
the ground, ask of him any questions whatever, information 
on which might guide in forming a correct judgment as 
to the situation there, or assist in the effort toward the 
improvement educationally, industrially, or morally, of the 
Koreans themselves. In reply I expressed my satisfaction 
at the confidences which His Excellency had given me, and 
my hearty sympathy with his plans for the peaceful develop- 
ment of Korea. Nothing, it seemed to me, could be more 
important in the interests of humanity than to have the strife 
of foreign nations for a selfish supremacy in the Far East 
come to a speedy end. But the perfect freedom of inquiry and 
action allowed to me was in some sort an embarrassment. 
It would have been easier to have had a definite work assigned, 
and a definite method prescribed. However, I should do the 
best that my inexperience in such matters made possible, in 
order to justify his favorable judgment. 

It was my intention at first to prepare for the work in Korea 
by much reading of books. But the professional and social 
demands made upon both time and strength, to the very 
last hour of our stay in Japan, prevented the carrying out of 



THE INVITATION n 

this intention. When, later on, it became possible to read 
what had previously been published, I discovered that the 
deprivation was no hindrance, but perhaps a positive ad- 
vantage, to the end of success in my task. | A story of recent 
experiences of Korean intrigue which had already been 
reported to me in detail was of more practical value than the 
reading of many learned treatises. The story was as follows : 
Among the several representatives of American Christian and 
benevolent enterprises who have recently visited that country, 
for the size of his audiences and the warmth of his greeting, 
one had been particularly distinguished. At his first public 
address, some four thousand persons, men and boys (for 
the Korean women are never seen at such gatherings) had 
attempted to crowd into "Independence Hall." Of these, 
however, nine-tenths came with the vague feeling that it is 
somehow for the political interest of Koreans to seem friendly 
to citizens of foreign Christian countries especially of the 
United States in order to secure help for themselves in an 
appeal to interfere with the Japanese administration. In this 
case the speaker was at first supposed to have great political 
influence. But the audience, seeing that the subjects of 
address were religious rather than political, fell off greatly 
on the second occasion. Meanwhile, some of the Korean 
officials, in order to win credit for themselves for procuring 
the audience, had falsely reported that the Korean Emperor 
wished to see this distinguished representative from America. 
But when they learned that application for the audience had 
been duly made, through the proper Japanese official, they 
came around again and, with many salaams and circuitous 
approaches, expressed the regrets of His Majesty that, being in- 
disposed, he was unable to grant the audience which had been 
applied for. At the very time of this second falsehood, the 
proper official was in the act of making out the permit to enter 
the palace. The audience came off. And while the Amer- 



12 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

lean guest was in the waiting-room, the Minister of the 
Household, watching his chance to escape observation, with 
his hand upon his heart, appealed to the distinguished 
American for his nation's sympathy against the oppression 
of the Japanese. During the two months of my own ex- 
perience with the ways of the Koreans, all this, and much 
more of the same sort, was abundantly and frequently illus- 
trated. And, indeed, no small portion of the recent move- 
ment toward Christianity is more a political than a religious 
affair. But of this I shall speak in detail later on. 

It was the understanding with Marquis Ito at the interview 
in Kyoto that he should have me informed at Nagasaki, at 
some time between March 2oth and 24th, when he desired 
us to come to Seoul; and that arrangements should then be 
made for meeting our Japanese escort at Shimonoseki. 
On returning to the hotel parlor the Marquis apologized to 
Mrs. Ladd for keeping her husband away so long, and re- 
marked, playfully, that the diplomatic part of the conference 
was not to be communicated even to her, until its expectations 
had become matters of history. 

Three days later we started for Nagasaki, where I was to 
spend somewhat more than a week lecturing to the teachers 
of the Prefecture, and to the pupils of the Higher Commercial 
School. As we crossed the straits to Moji, the sun rose 
gloriously over the mountains and set the sea, the shore, and 
the ships in the two harbors aglow with its vitalizing fire. 
The police officer assigned to guard his country's guests, 
pointed out to us the battleship waiting to take the Resident- 
General to his difficult and unappreciated work in Korea; 
and nearer the other side of the channel we noted with pleas- 
ure the A ki Maru, on which six months before we had crossed 
the Northern Pacific. 

It had been in my plans, even before reaching Japan, to 
spend a month or two in Kiushu, a part of the Empire which 



THE INVITATION 13 

is in some respects most interesting, and which I had never 
visited before. And, indeed, in reliance on a telegram from 
Tokyo which read: "Fix your own date, telegraph Zumoto" 
(the gentleman who was to accompany us from Shimonoseki), 
"Seoul," arrangements had -already been completed for 
lectures at Fukuoka, and had been begun for a short course 
also at Kumamoto. But the very next day after these in- 
structions had been followed, a telegram came from Mr. 
Zumoto himself, who was already waiting at Shimonoseki 
to accompany us to Seoul, inquiring when we could start, 
and adding that "the Marquis hoped it would be at once." 
All engagements besides the one at Nagasaki were therefore 
promptly cancelled. On the evening of March 24th, Mr. 
Akai, who had been our kindly escort in behalf of the friends 
at Nagasaki, put us into the hands of our escort to Korea, 
at the station in Moji. 

Since the steamer for Fusan did not start until the following 
evening, we had the daylight hours to renew our acquaintance 
with Shimonoseki. The historical connections which this 
region has had with our distinguished host made the time here 
all the more vividly interesting. At this place, as an obscure 
young man, Ito had risked his life in the interests of progress 
by way of peace; and here, too, as the Commissioner of his 
Emperor, the now celebrated Marquis had concluded the 
treaty with China through her Commissioner, Li Hung 
Chang. But what need be said about the story of these 
enterprises belongs more properly with the biography pf the 
man. At about 8.30 o'clock in the evening of March 25th the 
harbor launch, with the chief of the harbor police in charge, 
conveyed the party to the ship Iki Mam. The evening was 
lovely; bright moonlight, mild breeze, and moderate tempera- 
ture. After tea, at about eleven, we "turned in" to pass a 
comfortable night in a well-warmed and well-ventilated 
cabin. 



i 4 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

I have dwelt with what might otherwise seem unnecessary 
detail upon my invitation to Korea, because it throws needed 
light upon the nature and opportunity of this visit, as well as 
upon the character of the man who gave the invitation, and of 
the administration of which he is the guiding mind and the in- 
spiring spirit. I was to be entirely independent, absolutely 
free from all orders or even suggestions, to form an opinion 
as to the sincerity and wisdom of the present Japanese ad- 
ministration, as to the character and needs of the Korean 
public, and as to the Korean Court. The fullest confidential 
information on all points was to be freely put at my disposal; 
but the purpose of the visit was to be in full accord with that 
of the Residency-General namely, to help the Koreans, and 
to convince all reasonable foreigners of the intention to deal 
justly with them. Suggestions as to any possible improve- 
ments were earnestly requested. For I hesitate to say that 
His Excellency, with a sincerity which could not be doubted, 
asked that I should advise him whenever I thought best. So 
far as this understanding properly extends, the unmerited 
title of "Unofficial Adviser to the Resident-General," be- 
stowed by some of the foreign and native papers, was not 
wholly misplaced. But the term is more creditable to the 
sincerity of Marquis Ito than to my own fitness for any such 
title. "Adviser," in any strictly official or political meaning 
of the term, is a word altogether inappropriate to describe 
our relations at any time. 



CHAPTER II 

FIRST GLIMPSES OF KOREA 

IT was soon after seven on the morning of Tuesday, March 
26, 1907, that we had our first sight of Chosen, "The Land of 
Morning Calm." The day was superb, fully bearing out the 
high praise which is almost universally bestowed upon the 
Korean weather in Spring the sunshine bright and genial, 
the air clear and stimulating like wine. Tsushima, the island 
which for centuries has acted as a sort of bridge between the 
two countries, was fading in the distance on our port stern. 
The wardens of Tsushima, under the Tokugawa Shogunate 
and, as well, much earlier, had a sort of monopoly of the 
trade with southern Korea. From Tsushima, several centuries 
ago, came the trees which make conspicuous the one thickly 
wooded hill in Fusan, now the only public park in the whole 
country. In front rose the coast; its mountains denuded of 
trees and rather unsightly when seen nearer at hand, but at 
a distance, under such a sky, strikingly beautiful for their 
varied richness of strong coloring. The town of Fusan, as 
we approached it, had a comfortable look, with its Japanese 
buildings, many of them obviously new, nestled about the 
pine-covered hill which has already been noticed as its public 
park. 

From the steamer's deck our companion pointed out the 
eminence'on which, according to the narrative written by a 
contemporary in Chinese (the book has never been trans- 
lated and copies of the original are rare), the Korean Governor 

is 



16 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

of the District, when hunting in the early morning more than 
three centuries ago, looked out to sea and to his amazement 
saw myriads of foreign-looking boats filled with armed men 
approaching the bay. It. was the army sent by Hideyoshi for 
the invasion of the peninsula. The Korean magistrate hastened 
to his- official residence in the town, but scarcely had he 
arrived when the Japanese fortes were upon him and had 
taken possession of everything. In twenty-one days the in- 
vaders were in. Seoul. But according to the universal custom 
of the country when invaded, from whatever quarter and by 
whomsoever, the cowardly court a motley horde of king, 
concubines, eunuchs, sorcerers, and idle officials had fled; 
then a Korean mob burned and sacked the deserted palace 
and did what well could be done toward desolating the city. 
For seven years the Japanese held Southern Korea, even 
after their navy had been destroyed, so as to make it impossi- 
ble to transport reinforcements sufficient to meet the com- 
bined forces of the Chinese and the Koreans. It was the 
fear of a similar experience which, centuries later, made them 
so careful first to incapacitate the Russian navy as a matter 
of supreme importance. On another low hill to the right, 
our attention was directed to the remnants of one of the forts 
built at the time by the invading Japanese ; and further in- 
land, the train ran near to traces of the wall which they 
erected for the defence of their last hold upon the conquered 
country. Even then "the people hated them with a hatred 
which is the legacy of centuries; but could not allege any- 
thing against them, admitting that they paid for all they got, 
molested no one, and were seldom seen outside the yamen 
gates." 

On the wharf at Fusan there were waiting to welcome us 
the local Resident, the manager of the Fusan-Seoul Railway, 
and other Japanese officials all fine-looking men with an alert 
air and gentlemanly bearing. The official launch conveyed 



FIRST GLIMPSES OF KOREA 17 

us to the landing near the railway station, which is now 
some distance up the bay, but which will soon be brought 
down to the new wharf that is in process of building, in such 
good time that we had an hour and a half to spend before 
leaving for Seoul. Most of this time was. improved in visiting 
a Korean school on the hillside just above. We were not, 
however, to see this educational institution at work, but only 
the empty school-rooms and several of the Korean and 
Japanese -teachers. For the one hundred and seventy chil- 
dren of this school, clothed in holiday garments of various 
shades in green, pink, carmine, purple, yellow, and a few in 
white or black, were just starting for the station to give a 
"send-off" to Prince Eui Wha. This Prince is the second 
living son of the Korean Emperor and, in the event of the 
death or declared incapacity of the Crown Prince, the legiti- 
mate heir to the throne. There was much blowing of small 
trumpets and many unsuccessful attempts on the part of the 
teachers to get and keep the line in order, as the brilliantly 
colored procession moved down the hill. 

The teachers who remained behind showed me courteously 
over the school-rooms and interpreted the " curriculum" of 
the school which had been posted for my benefit in one of the 
rooms. I give it below as a good example of the kind of in- 
struction which is afforded in the best of the primary grades 
of the Korean school system as fostered by the Japanese: 

ist Class Ages, 7-9 years, inclusive: 

Chinese classics; morals; penmanship; gymnastics. 
2d Class Ages, 10-11 years, inclusive: 

Chinese classics; -national literature; penmanship; 

Korean history; gymnastics. 
3^ Class Ages, 12-13 years, inclusive: 

Chinese classics; arithmetic; composition; national 
and universal history; gymnastics, 



i8 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

4th Class Ages, 14-15 years, inclusive: 

Chinese classics; arithmetic; composition; Japanese 

language; universal history; gymnastics. 
<fh Class Ages, 16 years and over: 

English; Japanese; geography; national and uni- 
versal history; Korean law; international law. 

It will appear that this scheme of education is based upon 
a Chinese model, largely modified -to meet modern require- 
ments and, in the upper classes, designed to fit those who 
are able to continue in school for the lower grades of the 
Korean official appointments/ 

On returning to the station we found the children in line 
on one side of the road and on the other a row of Korean men, 
some in clean and some in dirty-white clothing, waiting for the 
coming of the Prince. The difference between the mildly 
disorderly and unenthusiastic behavior of the Korean crowd 
and the precise and alert enthusiasm of the Japanese on 
similar occasions was significant. The Japanese policemen 
treated all the people, especially the children, with con- 
spicuous gentleness. The Prince, who arrived at last in a 
jinrikisha and took the reserved carriage just back of the 
one reserved for us, had a languid and somewhat blase air; 
but he bowed politely and removed his hat for an instant as 
he passed by. 

Before the train left the station a number of the principal 
civil officers of Japanese Fusan appeared to bid us a good 
journey; and so we entered Korea as we had left Japan, 
reminded that we were among friends and should feel at 
home. Indeed, at every important station the cards of the 
leading officials, who had been informed of the arrival of his 
guests from the office of the Resident-General at Seoul, were 
handed in; and this was followed by hand-shaking and the 
interchange of salutations. 



FIRST GLIMPSES OF KOREA 19 

The country through which the train passed during the 
entire day was very monotonous or perhaps "repetitious" 
is the better descriptive word. Each mile, while in itself in- 
teresting and possessed of a certain beauty due to the rich 
coloring of the denuded rock of the mountains and of the 
sand of the valleys, which are deprived of their natural green 
covering by the neglect to bar out the summer floods, was 
very like every other of the nearly three hundred miles be- 
tween Fusan and Seoul. Here, as everywhere in Korea, 
there was an almost complete absence of any special interests, 
either natural or human, such as crowd the hills and valleys 
of Japan. Of roads there appeared to be nothing worthy 
of the name only rough and tortuous paths, in parts 
difficult for the Korean pony or even for the pedestrian to 
traverse. No considerable evidences of any other industry 
than the unenlightened and unimproved native forms of 
agriculture were visible on purely Korean territory. But at 
Taiden about 170 miles from Fusan and 106 from Seoul 
where the car of the Prince- was switched off, and where he 
remained overnight in order that he might arrive at the 
Capital in the daylight, something better appeared. This 
city is situated on a mountainous plateau and is surrounded 
by extensive rice-fields, some of which, we were told, belong 
to the son of Marquis Nabeshima, to Count Kabayama, and 
to other Japanese. In spots, the number of which is in- 
creasing, all over Southern Korea, Japanese small farmers 
are giving object-lessons in improved agriculture; and 
grouped around all the stations of the railway, the neat 
houses and tidy gardens of the same immigrants are teaching 
the natives to aspire after better homes. Our escort believes 
that the process of amalgamation, which has already begun, 
will in time settle all race differences, at least in this part of 
the country. 

At ten o'clock our train arrived at the South-Gate station 



20 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

of Seoul, where we were met by General Murata, Marquis 
Ito's aide-de-camp, Mr. Miura, the Seoul Resident, Mr. 
Ichihara, manager of the Japanese banks established in 
Korea, a friend of years' standing, and others, both gentle- 
men and ladies. The dimly lighted streets through which 
the jinrikishas passed afforded no glimpses, even, into the 
character of the city where were to be spent somewhat more 
than two exceedingly interesting and rather exciting months. 
But less than an hour later we were lodged in comfortable 
quarters at Miss Sontag's house, and were having a first ex- 
perience of the almost alarming stillness of a Korean night. 
Even in the midst of a multitude of more than two hundred 
thousand souls, the occasional bark of a dog and the un- 
ceasing rat-tat of the ironing-sticks of some diligent house- 
wife, getting her lord's clothing of a dazzling whiteness for 
next day's parade, are the only sounds that are sure to strike 
the ear and soothe to sleep brains which must be prevented 
from working on things inward, if they sleep soundly at all. 
But this is the place to speak in well-merited praise of the 
unwearied kindness and generosity of our hostess. Miss 
Sontag not only makes the physical comforts of those visiting 
Seoul, who are fortunate enough to be her guests, far different 
from what they could be without her friendly help, but is also 
able to afford much insight into Korean customs, of which 
her experience has been most intimate and intelligently 
derived. 

With the morning light of March 2yth began first obser- 
vations of the physical conditions and more obvious social 
peculiarities of Seoul the place which has been fitly styled 
"an encyclopaedia of most of the features of Korean so-called 
city life." It is impossible to describe Seoul, however, in any 
such fashion as to satisfy the conflicting opinions of all 
whether transient foreign observer or old-time resident. 
The former will base his estimate upon the particular aspects 



FIRST GLIMPSES OF KOREA 21 

or incidents concerning which his missionary or diplomatic 
friend has given him presumably, but by no means always 
actually, trustworthy information; or upon what his own 
uninstructecl eye and untrained ear may happen to see and 
hear; while the more permanent indweller in Seoul is 
pretty sure to conceive of it, and of its inhabitants, according 
to the success or the failure of his schemes for promoting his 
own commercial, political, or religious interests. This differ- 
ence is apt to become emphatic, whenever any of the patent 
relations of the two peoples chiefly interested, the Koreans 
and the Japanese, are directly or even more remotely con- 
cerned. The point of view taken for comparison also de- 
termines much. Approached from Peking or from any one 
of scores of places in China, Seoul seems no filthier than the 
visitor's accustomed surroundings have been. But he who 
comes from Old or New England, or from Japan, will observe 
many things, greatly to his disgust. The missionary who 
compares his own method in conducting a prayer-meeting 
with that pursued by the guard in clearing the way at the 
railway station, or with that to which the policeman or the 
jinrikisha-runner on the street is compelled by the crowd 
of idle and stately stepping pedestrians, will doubtless com- 
plain of the rudeness shown to the Koreans by the invading 
Japanese. And if he is disposed to overlook the conduct of 
the roughs in San Francisco, or to minimize the accounts of 
the behavior of American soldiers in the Philippines, or has 
forgotten his own experiences at the Brooklyn Bridge, he may 
send home letters deprecating the inferior civilization of the 
Far East. On the other hand, he who knows the practice of 
Korean robbers, official and unofficial, toward their own 
countrymen, or who recalls the sight of a Korean mob tearing 
their victim limb from limb, or who credits the reports of the 
unutterable cruelties that have for centuries gone on behind 
the palace walls, will, of course, take a widely divergent point 



22 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

of view. But let us laying aside prejudice glance at the 
externals of the capital city of Korea, as they appeared during 
the months of April and May, 1907. 

The word Seoul, 1 coined by the Shilla Kingdom in South- 
eastern Korea and originally pronounced So-ra-pul, means 
"national capital"; and Hanyang ("Sun of the Han"), the 
real name of the present capital, is only one of a succession 
of "Seouls," of which Song-do and Pyeng-yang were the most 
notable. To the imagination of the ignorant populace of 
Korea, who can have no conception of what real civic beauty 
and decency are in these modern days, and who are accus- 
tomed to express themselves with Oriental hyberbole, Han- 
yang is the "Observation of all Nations," "the King's city in 
the clouds," "a city that spirits regard and ghosts conceal"; 
and to be hailed as the "Coiled Dragon and the Crouching 
Tiger." When the town came down from the mountain 
retreat of Puk Han (to be described later) and spread over the 
plain in order to utilize the Han River, it took the river's 
name; but it was only some five hundred and twenty years 
ago made "Seoul" by the founder of the present dynasty 
selecting it as his capital city. 

The situation of the chief city of modern Korea becomes 
more and more impressive and, in every important respect, 
satisfactory, the greater the frequency of one's reflective 
observation from any one of numerous favorable points of 
view. There is no natural reason why, under the govern- 
mental reforms and material improvements which are now 
being put into effect, Seoul should not become as healthy, 
prosperous, and beautiful a place of residence as can be shown 
anywhere in the Far East. W T hile its lower level is only some 
120 feet above tide-water, and within easy reach of the sea by 

1 For the following description of Seoul, besides my own observations, 
I am chiefly indebted to a series of articles published during our stay 
there by Dr. G. Heber Jones in the Seoul Press. 




a, 

rt 
U 



FIRST GLIMPSES OF KOREA 23 

the river, the city is, with the exception of the side which 
opens toward and stretches down to this waterway, com- 
pletely surrounded by mountains. On the north these 
guardian peaks rise to the height of 2,500 feet, from the tops 
of which magnificent views can be obtained, not only of the 
town nestled at their feet but of the surrounding land and of 
the ocean, far away. It is not necessary, however, to climb 
so high in order to discover the geographical peculiarities of 
Seoul. " To secure the best view of the city and its surround- 
ings," says Dr. Jones, "one should ascend the lower slopes 
of Nam-san" (a mountain almost wholly within the walls) 
"on a bright sunny day in Spring. Taking a position on one 
of the many spurs jutting out from this mountain a really 
notable scene greets the eye. The stone screen of mountains 
enclosing the city begins at the left, with Signal Peak dis- 
tinguished by a lone pine-tree on its top. In former years 
there was a beacon fire-station here, which formed one of the 
termini of the long line of fire-stations that in pre-telegraph 
days signalled to the authorities the weal or woe of the 
people." 

Attention should again be called at least for all lovers of 
natural beauty to the intensity and changeable character of 
the colors of the surrounding mountains and hills, and of the 
city enclosed by them in its plain, or in places where a few 
houses, mostly foreign, climb their sides. These colors are 
often very intense; but they change in a remarkable way, ac- 
cording to the brilliancy and direction of the sunlight, and 
the varying mixtures of sunshine and shadow. \PYom such 
a point of view, the city itself, which is for the most part mean 
and filthy when seen from the streets, appears as a sort of 
grayish carpet, with dark-green spots made by the pines, 
for the plain beneath one's feetA As has already been in- 
dicated, the hillsides, both within and around the walls, are 
uninhabited. They are devoted and thus wasted to the 



24 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

mounds that cover the long-forgotten dead. By calculation, 
upon a basis of counting, it is estimated that one of these burial 
grounds in the vicinity of Seoul has no fewer than 750,000 of 
these graves. It is neither reverence nor any other worthy 
feeling, however, which is the chief factor in fostering a 
custom so expensive of comfort to the living; it is supersti- 
tious fear, akin to that spirit-worship, which is largely devil- 
worship, and which is really the only effective religion of the 
non-Christian Korean people. Foreign residents upon the 
hillsides find it difficult to keep their Korean servants during 
the night, so dominated are they by their fear. In this 
respect, as well as others, there is an important difference 
between so-called ancestor-worship, as in Korea, and ancestor- 
worship in Japan. 

The most obvious thing of interest in Seoul is the city wall. 
Its construction was begun early in 1396, four years after the 
present dynasty came to the throne; it was finished in about 
nine months by the forced labor of men aggregating in number 
198,000. According to the legendary account, the course of 
the wall was marked out by a Buddhist monk, who had the 
help of a miraculous fall of snow that indicated the line which 
should be take'n in order to avoid a dangerous mixture of the 
"tiger" influence and the " dragon" influence. To this day 
the Koreans, like the Chinese, whose pernicious domination 
they have followed in this as in many other respects, are firm 
believers in geomancy. The fact is, however, that the wall 
surrounding Seoul wanders, without any assignable reason, 
some twelve miles, as recent surveys have settled the long 
dispute about its length, over hills and along valleys, enclosing 
a vast amount of uninhabitable as well as inhabited space. 
It is built of partially dressed stone, with large blocks laid 
lengthwise at the base, and the superstructure formed of 
layers of smaller stone the whole surmounted by battlements 
about five feet high and pierced with loop-holes for archery 



FIRST GLIMPSES OF KOREA 25 

adapted to the varying distances of an approaching foe. In 
height it ranges from twenty to forty feet; it is banked by an 
embankment of earth from twelve to fifteen feet thick. 
Various attempts have been made at patching up this decay- 
ing structure, but it can never have had the solidity and im- 
pregnability against attack by the methods of mediaeval war- 
fare which were given to fortifications of the same era in 
Japan. Moreover, the Korean defenders of the wall cus- 
tomarily ran away as the foe approached; and this the 
Japanese seldom or never did. Thus Seoul was easily 
captured by the warriors of Hideyoshi in 1592, and nearly a 
half century later by a Manchu invading army. The wall is, 
of course, useless for purposes of defence against modern war- 
fare; and its continuance in existence, at least in large part, 
depends upon the length of time during which the sentiment 
of pride triumphs over more utilitarian considerations. 

It is the Gates of Seoul which emphasize the visitors 
interest in the city wall and which give most of character to 
its picturesque features. In themselves, they are mere 
" tunnels pierced in the wall"; but they are rendered archi- 
tecturally interesting by the wide-spreading eaves and graceful 
curvature and, in some cases, striking ornamentation of their 
roofs. They are, in all, eight in number, one of which is the 
"concealed." They bear the names of the points of the 
compass South, Little West, West, Northwest, East, Little 
East, and East Water; this is not, however, because they 
face true to these points, but because in the main they form 
the principal avenues of communication between the inside of 
the wall and the outlying regions situated in these general 
directions. Each of the gates has, besides, another name char- 
acterized by the customary Korean hyberbole. There are, for 
example, the "Gate of Exalted Ceremony," the "Gate of Efful- 
gent Righteousness" (or, in two other cases, different kinds 
of righteousness), the "Gate of Brilliant Splendor," etc. But 



2 6 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

in and out of these gates, for one-half of a thousand years, far 
more of corruption, cruelty, and darkness, has crept, or trailed, 
or strutted, than of the qualities fitly called by their high- 
sounding names. It was over them that the late " lamented 
queen" festooned more than a score of heads freshly taken 
from her political enemies in order to signify to the Tai-won- 
kun that she retained control of His Majesty, in spite of the 
fact that his father had obtained permission to re-enter the 
city through that same gateway. But why disturb our ad- 
miration of a point of structural interest by recalling one of 
the long list of doings in and around Seoul, no less distinctive 
of the character of its government? In those older days, 
when the Great Bell of the city rang the curfew, the gates 
were at once locked for the night; and any inquirer may 
hear from missionaries and travellers how they have climbed 
the wall in order not to sleep outside thus incurring the 
death penalty, which was not, however, at all likely to be 
enforced upon the protected foreigner. The gates them- 
selves, and the devices for locking them, are very similar to 
those so frequently met with as the relics of mediaeval Europe. 
But the clay manikins (or Son-o-gong) which sit astride the 
ridges of the roof, are designed to warn and ward off all evil 
spirits that may attempt to enter the city. The old-fashioned 
guards, with their dreadful array of big knives and swords, 
have now given place to the modern policeman, whose princi- 
pal duty is to keep the gateway clear for traffic. This service 
is needed, for it is said that no fewer than 20,000 foot-passen- 
gers, besides a stream of laden ponies and bullocks, and a 
tolerably frequent schedule of electric cars, sometimes pass 
through the South Gate in a single day. \And the Koreans in 
the streets are a slow-moving, stubborn, and stupid crow3^ 
^To the ordinary traveller, after the first strangeness of its 
more obvious aspects is over, not much^remains of particular 
interest in the capital city of Korea. Of fine buildings, of 



FIRST GLIMPSES OF KOREA 27 

museums, picture-galleries, temples, theatres, parks, and 
public gardens, there is little or nothing to compare with any 
European or Japanese city of the same size!) There is, how- 
ever, here as everywhere in the peninsula, noiittle of antiqua- 
rian and historical interest which awaits the researches of those 
trained and enthusiastic in such pursuits. Of those sights 
which the city of Seoul within the walls can show, there are 
three principal classes the so-called palaces, the shrines, and 
the monuments. Even these are interesting, not for their 
intrinsic grandeur or beauty, but chiefly for their connection 
with the legends or historical incidents of the country. 

To quote again from the articles of Dr. Jones: "The 
Koreans apply the term Rung or palace to all residences of 
royalty, and to them Seoul is a city of palaces, for there are 
eighteen Kung of varying sizes and degrees of importance in 
and about the city." Among the eighteen, however, "there 
are several which are to-day a name and nothing more." 
Of these minor palaces the most interesting is that called the 
"Special South Palace," which was erected nearly five hun- 
dred years ago by one of the kings for his favorite daughter 
and her consort. But the latter made it such a "veritable 
den of infamy" that it was abandoned as a house haunted 
by evil spirits and unsafe for habitation. The mixture of 
fawning malice and hypocritical servility characteristic of 
Korean officialdom was at one time humorously exhibited 
in a way to deceive even the Chinese; for when the Mings 
were overthrown by the Manchus, the hated envoys of the 
latter were assigned to this House, "for their entertainment 
and as a covert derogation to their dignity." Thus, too, with 
the so-called "Mulberry Palace," known by the Koreans as 
the "Palace of Splendid Happiness." It was erected by the 
tyrant Lord Kwanghai who was here dethroned, and from 
here sent into exile, where he died a prisoner, From it also 
his successor was driven out by the usurping "Three Days, 



28 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

King." It was in this palace, also, that the King Suk-jong, 
having surprised his favorite concubine in practising magic 
rites to accomplish the death of the Queen whom she had 
already caused to be divorced and banished, turned upon 
the concubine herself, sentenced her to drink poison, and 
when she in revenge mutilated the Crown Prince, had her 
torn in pieces. Its present name is derived from one of the 
many fruitless experiments which the present Government 
of Korea, left to itself, is constantly making. The "mul- 
berry" plantation remains only as a name to adorn, or de- 
grade, the ruins of the palace. But if any visitor to Seoul 
thinks that such violence, lust, and thriftlessness, must of 
necessity belong to the ancient history of Korea, let him 
learn his mistake. Were the firm, strong hand of the Japan- 
ese Resident- General withdrawn, there is not one of these 
horrid deeds which might not be reproduced at any hour. 

These are not, however, the "Major Palaces," through 
which the foreign visitor is usually conducted, after having 
obtained a permit from the proper authorities. The palace, 
known to the Koreans as the Kyung-pok, or "Palace of 
Beautiful Blessing," and to foreigners as the '"Summer 
Palace," dates from 1394, and was occupied by the present 
Emperor until 1896. Nowhere else have I seen so large a 
space (it is estimated that the principal enclosure containing 
only the buildings deemed necessary for his Korean Maj- 
esty's comfort, contains one hundred acres, Besides which 
there are other enclosures running up the slopes of the 
mountains and designed for defence) strewn over with 
desolated and half-ruined barbaric splendor. The main 
Gateway, through whose central arch no other person than 
His Majesty and his bearers may pass, is an impressive 
structure and is still in fairly good repair. It is guarded by 
stone effigies of the Hai-tai, or mythical sea-monsters, who 
are prepared to spout water against the mysterious influences 



FIRST GLIMPSES OF KOREA 29 

stored in the "fire mountain," some ten miles away to the 
southward. They are therefore called "Fire Dogs." Once 
inside the enclosure, one is presented with a melancholy 
picture of neglect, swiftly oncoming decay, and advancing 
ruin. All this is the more melancholy, because the present 
palace buildings are only about fifty years old, were erected 
by the Prince-parent of the present Emperor, almost to the 
financial ruin of the country, and were abandoned only after 
the assassination of the Queen, October 8, 1895. 4 

Amidst this crowded waste where formerly three thousand 
persons lived in attendance upon the separate establishments 
for the King, Queen, Crown Prince, and the Dowagers, there 
are only two buildings which, architecturally considered, are 
worthy of note. One of these is the old "Audience Hall." 
Its columns, although many are cracked for a considerable 
part of their length, and none of them ever possessed any- 
thing like the beauty or finish of the noble wooden pillars 
of the Nishi Hongwanji in Kyoto (which, however, they re- 
semble in style and effect), seem to have been made of entire 
stately trees. There are really no galleries, but the appear- 
ance is that of a two-galleried hall. The strong colors of red, 
black, green, and blue, with which the carved and panelled 
ceiling is decorated, in a manner similar to that of the castles 
in the Tokugawa period in Japan, seem to find their way 
through one's upturned eyes to the base of the brain. In 
some of its structural features this Audience Hall resembles 
the audience halls of the Muhammadan monarchs in North- 
ern India more than anything to be found in Japan. This 
is especially true of the high platform on which the throne 
was placed. The decoration central over it, and that central 
in the ceiling of the whole hall, is golden dragons, with clouds 
and flames, in bas-reliefs; it is in an excellent state of 
preservation. 

The other really fine building in the entire collection is the 



3 o IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

so-called "Hall of Congratulations," whose upper floor is 
supported by forty-eight granite monoliths six rows of eight 
each in a row. These pillars are about sixteen feet high and 
three feet square. The lotus pond surrounding the building 
is oblong and faced with masonry; while miniature islands 
rise here and there above the surface of the- water. This 
Hall was intended for state social functions of the out-of- 
door character. 

By going still further back of the sleeping apartments of the 
King, which consisted of nine rooms arranged in a square, 
so that the eight surrounding the central room could guard it 
from intrusion or attack, we come in front of the wall behind 
whose screen are the apartments in one of which the brilliant 
and attractive but cruel Queen met her own most tragic and 
cruel death. All are now forbidden to enter there. But 
some twelve years before, our escort had seen the dark blood- 
stains on the floor perhaps hers, perhaps those of her cham- 
berlain who met his death in trying to protect his queen. 
And one has only to look a little way over to the right in order 
to see the now peaceful pine-grove where her body was 
dragged and burned. Such was the deed which terminated 
the royal habitation of another, and this the most splendid, of 
the palaces of Seoul! 

It is the grounds, rather than the buildings, of the East 
Palace, especially when the azaleas and cherry bushes and 
apricot-trees are in full bloom, which constitute its beauty. 
Here the diplomatic corps and the other invited guests of the 
Emperor are accustomed to have picnics and afternoon 
teas. The apartments, which were united into one so-called 
palace in the reign of Suk-jong (1694-1720) appear to be 
most distinctively Korean and are unlike any other buildings 
which I have ever seen. The rooms are small and rambling; 
and the screens between them are decorated with those geo- 
metrical patterns which are so ancient and so nearly universal 



FIRST GLIMPSES OF KOREA 31 

wherever architecture has reached a certain stage of develop- 
ment. The ceilings are low and devoid of decoration, but 
are made pleasing by being everywhere "beamed-over." 
This palace, too, has not escaped its history of violence and 
its bath of blood. Here it was that, in 1884, the party of 
Progressives, headed by Mr. Kim Ok-kiun, tried to enforce 
reforms by capturing the person of the King. But the con- 
servative party of Koreans, helped by eight hundred Chinese 
soldiers under the leadership of the Major Yuan, who after- 
ward became Li Hung Chang's successor, and is even to-day 
cutting an important figure in the complicated politics of 
China, finally drove out the Progressives and the one hundred 
and forty Japanese who were defending them. 

Little else of the mildly exciting "sights" of Seoul remains 
besides the Great Bell and the Marble Pagoda. The former 
bears witness to an art in which the Koreans once excelled, 
but which is now, like all the other arts, either lost or neg- 
lected. At Nikko, it will be remembered, there is a Korean 
bell which was presented to one of the Japanese Shoguns. 
Setting aside all legends as to the time and incidents of its 
manufacture and hanging, a recently deciphered inscription 
on its own side tells the date as 1469 and gives the names of 
the prominent men connected with the undertaking. The 
report of a Chinese envoy of 1489, who says of the bell, "It 
calls all men to rest, to rise, to work, to play," taken in 
conjunction with the fact that, to avoid the troubles of faction 
and violence, men were forbidden on the streets after dark, 
probably gave rise to the report that women only were allowed 
to go abroad at night. And this is believed by natives and 
travellers until the present hour. But the bell, which once 
rung to open and close the massive city gates, now rings only 
to tell of midnight and mid-day. And, although it is about 
eight feet in diameter and ten feet high, it is no great sight 
as looked at by peeking through the bars of its surrounding 



32 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

cage. It does, however, like many other things else in Seoul, 
bear witness to the life of the past and the changes of the 
present. 

The marble pagoda is at the same time the most notable 
existing monument of Buddhism in Korea and the most in- 
teresting art-object in Seoul. It came, however, from abroad ; 
tradition connects its gift with a Mongol princess who, after 
the death of Kublai Khan, came to Korea in 1310 to become 
the queen-consort of King Chung-sun. It was brought in 
a junk from China and at first erected in the grounds of a 
temple in the little town of Hanyang the predecessor of 
Seoul on the same site; for the capital of the present dynasty 
was not then built. The temple grounds were beautified in 
its honor; roads were constructed leading to it; and a 
bridge was built over a stream running near by. But the 
Korean inevitable happened to it the fate meted out to all 
that shows signs of order, industry, or art, when not of im- 
mediate selfish interest to the rulers of Korea. The roads, 
encroached upon by surrounding hovels, became foul and 
narrow alleys; a squatter built his straw-thatched hut about 
it; and the stream became the main sewer of the city, which 
is cleaned only by the downpour of the summer rains. Thus, 
as says our chronicler: "The gift to Korea of one of the 
mighty Mongol Khans, whose arms had literally shaken the 
world, became the impedimenta of a Korean coolie's back- 
yard, sixteen by twenty feet square!" What wonder, how- 
ever, in a land where court officials and palace hangers-on 
do not hesitate to-day to steal the screens, and other presents 
from foreign monarchs and plutocrats, out from under His 
Majesty's very eyes! * 

1 This may seem incredible, but it is a fact that, as late as the spring 
of 1907, even a basket of fruit could not be sent to the Emperor 
with the confidence that the eunuchs and palace servants would not 
steal it all. At every garden-party the dishes and even the chairs had 
to be carefully watched. 



FIRST GLIMPSES OF KOREA 33 

The pagoda itself, which has now been cleared from the 
clutter of huts and made the central object in Seoul's first 
attempt at the beginnings of a public park, deserves a brief 
description. It is of white marble, much stained by time, 
war, and neglect, and was originally thirteen stories in height ; 
although only ten of these are now standing, while the upper 
three have been removed and rest beside it on the ground. 
The base and first six stories have twenty sides; the remainder 
are squares. Each story is symmetrically diminished in 
size; some have galleries with curved eaves and upturned 
corners. The ornamentation is exceedingly complicated and 
abstruse in its symbolism and suggestiveness. There are 
sculptured upon the flat surfaces processions of tigers, 
dragons, men on foot and on horseback, teachers discoursing 
in groves, pictures taken from the traditional life of Buddha, 
and various bas-reliefs of different Buddhas. The lower 
stories are composed of several blocks of carved stone, but 
the smaller and upper stories are monoliths. 

Near the pagoda stands the Tortoise Tablet, a very an- 
cient structure; the tablet is said originally to have been 
brought from the Southern Kingdom of Scilla, and erected 
upon the ledge of granite which outcropped in this place, 
after the rock had itself been carved into the shape of a 
tortoise. It was designed to memorialize the building of a 
temple which dates back to the eleventh century A. D. The 
tablet is probably more than one thousand years old. 

Within the small enclosure surrounding these relics, Mr. 
Megata, the Japanese financial adviser to the Korean Gov- 
ernment, is trying to encourage the public spirit of the 
natives and entertain the resident foreigners by providing 
band concerts on Saturday afternoons. Thus this spot also 
offers a study in epitome of the history, present changes, and 
future prospects of the capital city of Korea. 

Of the few shrines which the royal prohibition of Buddhism 



34 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

and the low and decaying interest in all religious conceptions 
rising above the level of spirit-worship and this mostly devil- 
worship have allowed to remain in Seoul, the only ones of 
any particular importance are the Imperial Ancestral Shrines 
and the so-called "Temple to Heaven." But even the guests 
of Marquis Ito did not think it wise to ask for permission 
to visit these shrines, or to exhibit any more curiosity respect- 
ing them than to glance by the guard, through the open doors 
of the gateway, while passing along the street. As to the New 
Palace, which is a stone building of modified Doric archi- 
tecture, and is so far finished externally that it can be seen to 
have decided claims to beauty, if only the superstitions of the 
monarch and of his counsellors among the blind-men and the 
sorcerers had permitted it to be well placed this was ever 
before our eyes from the windows of Miss Sontag's house. 
And what was seen of the buildings occupied at the time of 
our visit by His Majesty and the Court, so far as it is worth 
a word, will be described in another place. 

The Seoul seen from the surrounding mountain-sides, and 
the Seoul of so-called palaces, is not the city in which the people 
live, ^part from a few of its inhabitants such as the mission- 
aries, certain foreign business men and diplomatic agents, 
together with a small number of native officials who have ac- 
quired a taste for foreign ways the Seoul of the people is 
andabectly squalid. It is, indeed, not so 



filthy and miserable, and lacking in all the comforts and 
decencies of respectable Western life, as it was a generation, 
or even a few years ago.J Several of the streets have now 
been not only occasionally when the King was going a 
"processioning" through them, but habitually and to the 
benefit of the populace cleared of their encroachments of 
squatter hovels, huts, and booths. The gutters along the 
sides of these streets do not quite so much as formerly disturb 
the eyes and nostrils of the pedestrian, especially if he walks 



FIRST GLIMPSES OF KOREA 35 

in the middle of the thoroughfare ; their use for vile purposes 
is not so much in evidence as was the case before any of the 
natives had even .a glimmering sense of decency about such 
matters. In spite of the increased business activity of the 
city there is not to-day quite the same stream of white-robed 
saunterers, stately in gait but low in character, to give a semi- 
holiday aspect to the "Broadways" of Seoul; for electric cars 
transport the multitudes back and forth in several directions. 
Besides, there is the neat, attractive Japanese quarter. Here, 
according to my observation, the Koreans themselves were 
doing more sight-seeing and more trading than in their own 
quarters; for here the cheaper products of the new and 
hitherto unknown world are skilfully displayed. But other- 
wise and elsewhere in the city, the same unsanitary conditions 
and indecent habits, in all respects, prevail. The narrow, 
winding alleys are flanked with shallow, open ditches, that 
are not only the drains and sewers but the latrines of the 
dwellers in the low earth-walled houses on either side. 
fCowardly and lean dogs, naked children, and rows of men 
squatting and sucking their long pipes or lying flat upon the 
ground, crowd and obstruct these alleys. And from them 
the wide-spreading Korean roofs cut off the purifying and 
enlivening sunlight?) Many of the most wretched and 
unsanitary of thesTriovels squat under the shadow of the 
stately city wall. May its stones sometime be used to build 
a better and healthier city ! 

There are, however, yet more notable changes and im- 
provements than those already accomplished, which seem 
destined surely and speedily to follow. A water-supply, for 
which the surveys and contracts have already been completed 
and for which, during our visit, the pipes were beginning to 
be laid, will not only diminish the dangers that lurk in the 
cans of the professional water-carriers and in the private 
wells, but will assist the summer rains in their formidable 



36 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

task of washing clean the open sewers. More of these foul, 
winding alleys, and huddles of hovels, will be abolished. 
The increase in the interests of life, and the enjoyment of the 
rewards of protected industry, will diminish the drunken- 
ness and gluttony, varied by enforced periods of starvation, 
which now distress the people. The new hospital and medical 
school the former of which will immediately relieve much 
suffering and the latter of which will perform the yet more 
important service of educating a native medical class are 
among the most cherished projects of the Resident- General. 
And when to these more essential matters there is added the 
cultivation of the native love of nature and taste for flowers, 
it is not an extravagant hope to picture Seoul as becoming, 
in many respects, a not undesirable place for residence, before 
many years are past. Even now, with the spring covering 
of bloom from plum, apricot, apple, and cherry, and with 
the profusion of flowering shrubs which adorns the valleys 
and the mountain-sides, one feels incHned to overlook, at 
least for the months of April and May|j:he foul sights of the 
gutters and the surrounding hovels/} But all this was, as it 
were, only background and theatre for the work I wished to 
do and the observations I wished to make. 



CHAPTER III 

LIFE IN SEOUL 

AFTER accepting Marquis Ito's formal invitation to 
attempt a special kind of service in Korea, the first problem 
to be solved concerned the choice of ways for approaching 
that service. Its solution was by no means obvious. In 
Japan there were more of urgent requests for public addresses 
and lectures of various kinds than could possibly be accepted. 
And everywhere that the speaker went, influential and large 
organizations of an educational and public character, to 
whose support the governors, of the Kens and the mayors of 
the cities were officially committed, could be relied upon to 
make all necessary arrangements and to carry the arrange- 
ments through effectively. More important still, there was 
the most eager interest in the subjects upon which the pros- 
pective audiences wished to be addressed, and the attitude 
of an open mind and even of warm personal attachment 
toward "the friend of Japan." \In Korea, however, all the 
influences would be of precisely the opposite character 
indifference, deficiencies, hindrances, if not active opposition, 
so far as the native attitude was concerned^ In Korea there 
were no educational associations; and, outside of a very small 
circle in a few cities, there was little or no interest in educa- 
tion. The local magistrates were, almost without exception, 
devoted to "squeezes" rather than to the increase of intelli- 
gence and the moral improvement of their districts. The 
teachers of the few existing schools were, in general, without 

37 



38 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

any modern culture; they were even without the most rudi- 
mentary ideas on the subjects of pedagogy, ethics, and 
religion. Only in a small number of places were there any 
halls that could accommodate an audience, should one be 
gathered by an appeal to curiosity and to the Korean thirst 
for "look-see"; while to be known as a "friend of Japan" 
and a guest of Marquis Ito was to erect an almost insuperable 
obstacle in the way of reaching the ears of the Korean upper 
and middle classes, to say nothing of convincing their minds 
or touching their hearts. Addressing the lower classes on 
any scholastic topic was impossible. Through what organ, 
then, could a stranger help the Resident-General in his be- 
nevolent plans for the welfare of the people of Korea? 

Reflection upon this problem of a means of approach to 
the Koreans ended in the fortunate choice of the Young 
Men's Christian Association at Seoul. To be sure, the direct 
influence of this association is at present wisely limited to the 
capital city. The illicit organization of branch associations, 
which was undertaken for political purposes by the Koreans 
themselves, has made it necessary to check, rather than en- 
courage, all efforts to multiply Y. M. C. A. societies in places 
beyond the immediate and unceasingly watchful control of 
the foreign secretaries. The same hypocritical and unscru- 
pulous use of the name of religion for purposes of political 
intrigue compelled the Methodist Mission in Korea to break 
up the "Epworth League." A letter to a friend in Tokyo, 
explaining my purposes and my embarrassment, resulted in 
the following telegram, which was received in Shimonoseki 
late in the evening of the day before sailing for Fusan: 

Secretary Seoul telegraphs Seoul Association platform gladly 
open. Indications other cities will extend same courtesy, espe- 
cially after tenth. 

These words illumined to no small degree the prospect of estab- 
lishing relations favorable to the success of the proposed plans. 



LIFE IN SEOUL 39 

In this connection it is pertinent to say that I had been 
advised to seek especially the counsel and assistance of 
Bishop Turner of the Church of England, and of the Korean, 
Mr. Yun Chi-ho. The Bishop was the president of the 
Young Men's Association; and the Korean gentleman is of 
good family, has a well-merited reputation for honesty, and 
has been prominent in religious work among his own people. 
As the history of my experiences will show, I was disappointed 
with respect to both these sources of information and help. 
Bishop Turner was either absent or ill during nearly the entire 
time of my stay in Korea; and Mr. Yun Chi-ho exhibited so 
persistently and adroitly the qualities which I had heard 
described as "a pessimistic disposition," and which in the 
opinion of all who knew him, both natives and foreigners, 
unfitted him for incurring any of the responsibilities of 
leadership, as to somewhat hamper rather than assist any 
efforts in behalf of his own people. It was not, of course, to 
be expected that a Korean Yang-ban should willingly con- 
fess the demonstrated incapacity of the Korean nation for 
self-government; even less, perhaps, that he should himself 
assist the Japanese in doing for his own people what they 
never have done, and never could do, for themselves. But 
that intelligent native Christians should take an attitude of 
passive opposition to offers of assistance on matters of educa- 
tion, morality and religion from a friendly foreigner of 
another nation, simply because that foreigner was the guest 
of the Japanese Resident- General, shows how characteristic 
and deep-seated are the obstacles which therofficial class are 
opposing to the redemption of Korea. But I was to witness 
the manifestation of the extreme form of the same feeling 
toward the association of those of their own countrymen who 
were co-operating with the Japanese in plans for reform. 

The morning after our arrival in Seoul, at about 10.30 
o'clock, Marquis Ito sent Mr. Zumoto to conduct me to his 



40 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

private office in the Residency House. The official residence 
is one of a group of buildings belonging to the Japanese Gov- 
ernment and situated upon a succession of spurs from the 
mountain Nam-san, in a portion of the city which lies beyond 
the Japanese quarters. The surrounding grounds, especially 
from points above the house, command fine views of the city, 
and are being constantly improved and beautified in ac- 
cordance with Japanese taste. So lonely are the mountain- 
ous heights above the grounds that numerous wild-cats have 
descended upon the chicken-yard of the Residency, and 
more than a dozen of these pests have been caught in traps 
and are now caged as part of a small menagerie or private 
"Zoo." QThere are persons now living in Seoul, not of 
advanced age, who have encountered tigers of the "man- 
eating" species, to say nothing of less formidable wild beasts, 
such as leopards and foxes, within the city wallsj 

At this morning's interview the Marquis was the first to 
speak, after a few minutes of silence which followed the 
exchange of greetings. But it was only to say that, of course, 
he could procure me invitations from the Japanese to give 
public addresses, and even, he presumed, from the Koreans; 
this, however especially in the latter case would probably 
embarrass my work, since it would subject it to suspicion. 
After these words he paused in a way to suggest an invita- 
tion for me to speak freely of my plans. I began by saying 
that I had no training or experience in matters of diplomacy; 
but I believed that, for me at least, the best course of action 
would conform to these two rules: to be entirely frank and 
good-tempered when you had anything to say; and to know 
when and how to hold your tongue if silence seemed the 
proper policy. At this the Marquis laughed it seemed 
approvingly. In brief, the plans, as far as formed at present, 
were as follows. As to Mission: Public: I was here as the 
guest of Marquis Ito, to speak to the Koreans in a sincerely 



LIFE IN SEOUL 41 

friendly way, on matters of education, morals, and religion, 
especially as these matters concerned their national welfare; 
private: to discover what I could which might assist the 
Resident-General in dealing with his difficult problem and 
to assure all, whom I could reach, that he sincerely wished 
to serve the real interests of the Koreans and to secure for 
them the administration of justice and an increased pros- 
perity. As to Message: Public : that the real prosperity of 
the individual and of society can be secured only by develop- 
ing a character which deserves it; and private, as already 
defined by the private mission. As to Means: Since there 
are in Korea no Teachers' Associations, I hoped to work 
through the Young Men's Christian Association and through 
such other connected agencies as they might secure; and 
especially to get opportunities to address Missionary Schools 
and Christian congregations in the churches. I also hoped 
to form friendly relations with the missionaries and with some 
of the diplomats and foreign business men in order to learn 
their views of the situation and to gain from them information 
and suggestions for its improvement. Especially did it seem 
to me desirable that the spiritual forces wielded by the mis- 
sionaries should co-operate for the good of Korea with the 
political forces wielded by the Resident- General. 

At this first interview, as at all subsequent interviews 
during my stay in Korea, the Resident-General uniformly 
replied in the negative to every request for criticism of my 
plans, or even for suggestions as to their improvement. On 
one particular occasion when I ventured to repeat the ques- 
tion: "But has the Marquis no suggstions to make?" the 
same answer, "No, I have no suggestions to offer," was re- 
turned. When I afterwards asked the only third person 
who was ever present at any of these interviews whether 
after my departure some comments had not been made 
which might assist in deciding upon the best course of action, 



42 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

the reply again was an unqualified negative. And upon sur- 
prise being expressed at this, the remark followed: "It is 
the custom of the Marquis, when he trusts any one, to trust 
him completely." And, indeed, the promise to leave me 
absolutely independent, which had been made in private 
and which was soon made public, w r as, throughout, most 
strictly kept. 

The same day, after tiffm, one of the under-secretaries of 
the Y. M. C. A., in the absence of Mr. Gillett, the Chief 
Secretary, called upon me for the discussion of plans and 
topics for the lectures in Korea. It then became evident 
that the manner of coming would, as had been suspected, 
prejudice the Koreans against the speaker and his words. 
Secretary Brockman, indeed, agreed with me in thinking 
that a large measure of frankness was desirable. But the 
Korean officers and members of the Association were timid. 
It appeared that the Korean Daily News had already 
reminded its readers, with a sinister warning, that Professor 
Ladd did not come from America, but from Tokyo, to Korea. 
The effect of this, with all it implied, will soon appear. Any 
more definite decision as to ways of procedure was, therefore, 
deferred until further consultation could be had with those 
chiefly interested in the affairs of the Association and the 
moral and religious welfare of the Korean people. 

The next morning a committee of three, representing the 
Association and the two principal Missions doing work in 
Seoul, called, and two hours of friendly discussion followed 
over the wisest method of solving this problem: How to 
employ the American guest of the Japanese Resident-General 
as a teacher of education, morals, and religion, under existing 
conditions, to Korean audiences. A complex problem truly! 
From the first, the lecturer himself insisted upon a continu- 
ance of the open and frank policy of approach; any attempt 
at concealment of his relations to Marquis Ito and of his con- 



LIFE IN SEOUL 43 

fidence in the Marquis' plans for helping Korea would only 
result in an increase of prejudice, suspicion, and in other invita- 
tions to failure. It was during the course of this discussion that 
one of the missionary members of the committee frankly 
declared his continued unwillingness, previously expressed, 
to have anything to do with a plan for "smoothing the way" 
for the Japanese. In case this was Professor Ladd's pur- 
pose, "let him go ahead and smooth the way, if he could; for 
his own part he wished to be counted out." The conference, 
however, ended in the harmonious agreement that three lectures 
should be given within the next week, under the auspices of 
the Young Men's Association. These were to have dates 
as follows; for the next Saturday evening, upon the subject, 
"Education and the Social Welfare"; for Sunday afternoon, 
upon the subject, "Religion and Social Reform"; and for 
Monday evening, upon " Education as Related to the Stability 
and Progress of the Nation." It was originally intended that 
the address of Sunday should be given in "Independence 
Hall," the largest public room in Seoul, which, however, 
stands outside of the city walls near "Independence Arch"- 
a structure erected to commemorate the formal renunciation of 
the suzerainty of China. The other lectures were to be given 
in the Association Hall, a temporary building of bare boards, 
situated in a more central location. Application, however, 
for the use of Independence Hall was met by the information 
that it was already engaged for next Sunday. It was then 
suspected that this was only an indirect and insincere method 
of refusal; I am not even now sure as to whether or not the 
suspicion was correct. 

On the next day a cordial invitation came from the mis- 
sionaries of both missions in Pyeng-yang to visit them and 
speak there as many times as I might be able. The narra- 
tive of this interesting visit is to be told elsewhere. But the 
difference between the attitude of the Koreans toward me 



44 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

in places outside of the capital, where the corruption, fears, 
and prejudices of the Yang-bans (or ruling class) are less 
dominant although some of these places have really suf- 
fered more from the Japanese than has Seoul shows in what 
motives and interests the anti- Japanese feeling is chiefly 
seated. It is in Seoul, especially, that many of the mission- 
aries seem not to have kept themselves altogether free from 
the same unworthy Court influences. 

It was on Saturday, March 30, at 3.30 P.M., according 
to a notice sent the day before, that I was received in audi- 
ence by the Korean Emperor. Under the escort of the 
Marquis' secretary, Mr. Kurachi, and a Korean aide-de-camp, 
I went in a jinrikisha to the small gate of the palace which 
is very near to Miss Sontag's house, and dismounting there, 
passed through rather irregular and intermittent lines of 
palace guards to the building where the audience was to take 
place. The rooms used for such functions, while the new 
palace is still in process of erection, are far enough from 
anything approaching royal magnificence. The aspect and 
furnishings of the entrance hall would scarcely rival a third- 
class hotel in Europe or the United States. The same thing 
is true of the waiting-room and of the audience-chamber 
itself. On arrival I was shown into the former apartment, 
where were already gathered some of the prominent Korean 
officials, including the Prime Minister, the Master of Cere- 
monies, and several officers of high rank in the Korean army. 
The entrance of Marquis Ito with his suite soon after filled 
the small room with men whose gorgeous apparel contrasted 
strongly with the cheap woodwork, which was painted light- 
pink and trimmed in light-green; and with its tawdry 
European furnishings. Almost immediately the little Prince, 
son of Lady Om, entered, and with an amusing air of boyish 
dignity, made more effective by the mannish costume of top- 
knot and crinoline hat with which he had recently been in- 



LIFE IN SEOUL 45 

vested, came straight up to me and gravely held out his hand. 
The young Prince has bright eyes, an intelligent but almost 
completely full-moon-shaped face, and a .protuding abdomen 
suggestive of over-indulgence in sweets and other fattening 
foods. At the mature age of eleven years he had just secured 
the coveted honor of the man's investiture, as described 
above. And seven maidens of suitable rank and age had 
already been selected, one of whom would subsequently sus- 
tain the ordeal of being chosen as his consort and future wife. 
After the hand-shaking and an interchange of courteous 
salutations, the boy disappeared. While waiting, I was being 
introduced to one official, Korean or Japanese, after an- 
other; but so often as I rose for this purpose, I was politely 
requested by the Korean aide-de-camp to be seated again. 

The Resident- General and some of his suite went to the 
audience-room some minutes before I was summoned to 
follow. It was my conjecture, from what His Majesty sub- 
sequently said, that he was being told something about me 
and about the work which I was to attempt in Korea. In a 
still later interview with Marquis Ito I learned the truth 
of this conjecture. The Emperor had been assured that the 
visitor's purposes were not political; but the Resident- 
General, believing that his lectures on matters educational 
and ethical had been of service in Japan, had invited him to 
come to Korea to assist in contributing to the same important 
interests here. 

On being invited to do so by the Court interpreter, I fol- 
lowed him to the audience-room. Any expectation of being 
conducted through stately corridors to a splendid throne-room 
was speedily disappointed. The audience-room was as near the 
waiting-room as two small rooms can well be. It was itself 
so small that there was difficulty in making the requisite three 
bows before standing face to face with His Majesty, separated 
only by a round table of the most ordinary sort. At his right 



46 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

side stood, not the Crown Prince, the son of the late Queen, 
but the son of Lady Om. Before I had come near enough 
to take it, and indeed before I had made my third bow, the 
Emperor held out his hand. He is in appearance a quite 
ordinary man, of the Korean type; and there was nothing 
worthy of notice about his plain Korean dress. His face wore 
the pleasant smile with which he is said to greet all foreigners 
(for, as our hostess says: "// est tres gentil, tres aimable"); 
although its aesthetical effect is somewhat hindered by a bad 
set of teeth. 

His Majesty expressed the hope that I had a pleasant trip 
and was very comfortable and enjoying myself. A favorable 
answer, and especially an expression of pleasure at Korea's 
beautiful mountain scenery and delightful climate, elicited 
the remark he still smiling, while the young Prince looked 
as solemn as an owl that, "besides the climate and the 
mountains, there was nothing else of interest in Korea." 
"I cannot quite agree with Your Majesty," was the response, 
"for I find the people and the country very interesting and I 
am sure that my interest will increase the longer I stay." 
The Emperor then went on to say that he was glad to learn 
I had come to instruct his people in right ways ; that he hoped 
they would open their minds to enlightenment and to modern 
ideas; and that my addresses would contribute to their 
progress. I answered that I should sincerely endeavor, by 
speaking on the same subjects on which I had been accus- 
tomed to speak in my own country, in England, India, Japan, 
and elsewhere, to contribute some little help to the same 
good cause in Korea. Up to this time, no sign of permission 
had been given to take my dismissal, and, indeed, once when 
a movement to withdraw had been made, a half-gesture had 
prevented it; but now His Majesty held out his hand. After 
taking it, I bowed and backed out safely over the threshold 
a manoeuvre made the easier by the small size of the room. 



LIFE IN SEOUL 47 

On returning to the waiting-room the question was asked 
whether the Crown Prince was present with his father; and 
no little surprise seemed to be excited by the fact that Lady 
Om's son had on this occasion taken the place on the Em- 
peror's right hand customarily occupied by the older half- 
brother. After the entrance again of the Marquis Ito with 
his suite, and of the Korean officials, to the room for waiting, 
light refreshments were served; the ceremony was then con- 
sidered at an end. 

My first experience of lecturing to a Korean audience came 
on the evening of the same day. While waiting in the small, 
dingy rooms of the Korean building, then used for offices by 
the Young Men's Christian Association of Seoul, I was intro- 
duced to several prominent Korean Christians. The most 
interesting of these was the pastor of one of the Korean 
churches, a member of a high-class family and one of the 
very few of his countrymen who combines a truly manly 
native character with a profession of the foreign faith. This 
man had been chosen by the Crown Prince to assist at the 
obsequies of his mother, the murdered Queen. The struggles 
with his conscience, which forbade him either to take part in 
heathenish rites, or escape with a lie, by feigning illness, or 
crawl out of the dilemma by resigning the official position he 
then held, made an interesting story. This man solved his 
problem of conscience in truly loyal style. And when the 
Christian pastor told his heathen prince that he could not 
go, and, as well, the reason why, instead of ordering him 
punished the latter said: "Why did you not let me know 
beforehand that you are a Christian, and then I should not 
have asked you? Go in peace." 

The lecture began late. The hall was crowded with some 
600 Koreans, seated on the floor, standing in the open space 
about the door, and perched in the windows. Besides the 
native audience, a few missionaries and three or four Japanese 



48 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

friends were the only foreigners present. The arrangements 
for enforcing order were unusual and interesting. A number 
of young men, designated by badges, were posted near the 
door or distributed about the hall. Their office res'embled, 
apparently, that of the tithing-man in the Puritan churches of 
a century gone by. Boys who became too restless were ad- 
monished and sometimes even gently rapped or pulled into 
place; and those who wished to leave the hall were prevented 
from doing so unless they could give' peremptory reasons for 
the wish. It was deemed complimentary to the speaker that 
he did not develop any considerable number of this class of 
hearers; and, indeed, this particular audience was called 
attentive. It was, in truth, fairly so; although not after the 
pattern of the altogether respectful and quiet manners of the 
Japanese audiences. Indeed, there was always considerable 
restlessness and undoubted evidence of that kind of applause 
which imitates what the French call claque, in the Korean 
audiences at Seoul. On the one hand there was a lack of 
that intelligent and serious interest in the discussion of 
questions of education, morals, and religion which one meets 
everywhere in Japan; while, on the other hand, there was 
response by clapping of hands to any remarks which touched 
one's hearers on the side of sentiment in an appeal to their 
personal or national experiences of injustice, pride, and 
weakness mingled with a certain form of ambition. These 
different characteristics may safely be interpreted as marking 
essential differences between the present attitudes and pros- 
pective developments of the two peoples. 

This lecture, as were all the lectures delivered to the 
Koreans (since they were without exception given under the 
auspices of either the Y. M. C. A. or of the missionaries), 
was opened by religious exercises. Dr. Jones introduced the 
speaker; and Mr. Reynolds, whose reputation for a knowledge 
of the Korean language has secured him a prominent place 



LIFE IN SEOUL 49 

in the work of translating the Scriptures, interpreted. The 
speaker availed himself of the words which the Emperor had 
that afternoon spoken in commendation of his purpose in visiting 
the country, to propitiate his first Korean audience. At the 
end of the two hours the foreigners present expressed them- 
selves as well satisfied with the beginning which had been made. 

On the afternoon of the next day, which was Sunday, the 
audience was equally large, and the attention about equally 
good; although the drizzle of rain which came on during the 
hours of meeting made some of the Korean men as nervous 
about the damage threatening their best-wear crinoline hats 
as American women are wont to be about their bonnets, under 
similar circumstances, on an Easter Sunday. As we entered 
the hall, Dr. Avison was leading the audience in singing. 
The quality of the song was not high, but it was perhaps 
equal to that attainable in Japan, outside of the Greek 
Cathedral at the time of my first visit fifteen years ago. 
The Koreans. are probably more fond of music, and more apt 
at learning, than are the Japanese. Already, under the 
training of their German teacher, Professor Eckert, a Korean 
band is giving to Seoul fairly creditable music. This service 
of song continued for about one-half hour and ended with the 
performance of a quartette by Korean young men, one of 
whom is Chamberlain to the Crown Prince and a nephew 
of the Emperor. This Sunday's audience was almost ex- 
clusively Christian. 

The next evening's audience was not quite so large as the 
others had been, but was obviously of much higher intel- 
lectual quality. More of the prominent men of the official 
class, apparently attracted by the nature of the theme, were 
present. They responded with increasing enthusiasm to 
Dr. Jones' clear and vigorous interpretation of my remarks 
upon the dangers to the national life which grow out of su- 
perstition, lawlessness, partisanship, selfish ambition and 



50 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

avarice, and a frivolous, irreverent spirit. At the close of 
the lecture the audience rose to their feet and waved toward 
me their uplifted hands as a greeting, equivalent to the 
Japanese banzai thus making an encouraging ending to 
the first series of lectures in Seoul. 

On our return from Pyeng-yang it was arranged that 
a course of three lectures should be given in the hall of the 
Young Men's Association to the teachers, and one or more 
popular addresses in Independence Hall, if this larger 
building could be obtained. To secure an audience for the 
teachers' course, some 400 tickets of invitation were issued 
and distributed by Korean helpers. The report of the eager- 
ness with which these tickets were sought led the secretary 
of the association to predict that three hundred at least would 
gather to hear discussed such topics as the following: "The 
Work of the Teacher," "The Preparation of the Teacher," 
"The Ideals of the Teacher." The lecturer himself esti- 
mated that an audience of as many as fifty would be entirely 
satisfactory. As a matter of fact, somewhat more than one 
hundred appeared at the appointed hour. The Korean 
helpers who had distributed the tickets accounted for the 
discrepancy between the fact and their anticipations by the 
persistence of the rumor that I had come to Korea to take 
a permanent official position under the Japanese Government. 
[Indeed, this was the prevalent opinion in Korean official 
circles and even among some of the foreigners until the 
date of our leaving the country.] But the same question 
arose again: Had the Korean Christian helpers really told 
the truth and had they been faithful to their work; or had 
they dealt with their commission treacherously and brought 
back a false report? In either case it was obvious that the 
teachers of the public schools had diplomatically refrained 
from attendance, under circumstances which might indicate 
a relaxing of their anti- Japanese sentiments. However, 



LIFE IN SEOUL 51 

certain of the Government officers now promised to send out \ 
word that attendance was cojmnajidedt and a large increase ) 
was expected at the next lecture. Whatever was the real/ 
cause of the first disappointment, the audiences were, in fact, 
about doubled at the following two lectures. They were also 
officially dignified by the presence of the Vice-Minister of 
Education, who, alas! soon afterward was arrested for 
contributing 1,200 yen to a conspiracy of assassination in- 
volving his own chief; he confessed to this intensity of his 
patriotism, underwent, according to current report, the 
preliminary examination by being beaten with rods, and was 
still in prison when we left Korea. As touching the moral 
efficiency of the lectures, however, it is only fair to say that 
the evil deed had been done some time previous to the culprit's 
opportunity for benefiting by their influence. 

At the close of this course on educational topics to the 
Korean teachers of Seoul, one of the officials in the Depart- 
ment of Education detained the audience by a long and some- 
what impassioned address. In this he heartily thanked the 
lecturer and exhorted the teachers to a better fulfilment of 
their duties at the same time lamenting bitterly the sad 
condition of educational interests in their native land. Then 
one of the Korean secretaries of the Y. M. C. A. compli- 
mented the audience on their excellent behavior while in the 
hall. This conduct of themselves had been in accordance 
with their profession as teachers. They had not yawned, or 
belched, or interrupted the speaker by leaving the room 
while he was speaking, after the customary behavior of Korean 
audiences of the uneducated classes. It should be said, 
however, that one of the many minor indirect benefits to the 
Korean people which are largely due to Christian missions 
is this: discipline in remaining fairly quiet and attentive 
while listening to others speaking. The unregenerate native 
manners in public meetings are most abominable. 



52 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Finally, after several disappointments and rebuffs, Mr. 
Gillett succeeded in obtaining Independence Hall for Sunday 
afternoon of April 2ist. On our way out to the meeting and 
back again he revealed the fact that, on account of the op- 
position to me as the guest of Marquis Ito, he had been 
unable to get the meeting advertised as widely and effectively 
as he desired. Whether this was due to the unwillingness 
and unfaithfulness of his Korean helpers, or to the determina- 
tion of the native edition of the Korean Daily News to 
oppose and traduce everything even remotely connected 
with Japan, I did not inquire. But I decided, and asked the 
secretary to communicate my decision to his native helpers, 
that this should be my last address to the Koreans in Seoul, 
unless invited by the Koreans themselves. Was there not 
here, I asked, a small body of leading Christian helpers with 
courage and manliness enough to set themselves against the 
prejudices of their countrymen by expressing spontaneously 
their willingness to hear truths about education, morals, and 
religion, from one who was the friend of the Japanese as well 
as their own nation's friend? 

In spite of the insufficient advertising, Independence Hall 
was fairly well filled. Some 1,500 to 1,600 were present; 
although perhaps 500 or 600 of the audience were boys, 
some of whom were not more than ten or twelve years of age. 
Much time was consumed in settling upon the floor in the 
front part of the hall these school-children as they arrived 
in groups, one after the other; and the exercises began more 
than an hour later than the time announced. The topic 
had been advertised as "The Five Conditions of National 
Prosperity" these being, Industry, Art, Education, Morals, 
and Religion. Partly on account of somewhat heated feeling, 
and partly on account of cooler judgment as to what are the 
needs of the hour for Korea, I spoke with audacious plainness 
and with unaccustomed energy. Dr. Jones, who was acting 



LIFE IN SEOUL 53 

as interpreter moved, I think, by somewhat the same 
emotions quite surpassed himself in vigor and in clearness, 
in a fine mingling of robustness with felicity of expression. 
The foreign auditors, including the interpreter himself, were 
inclined to be enthusiastic over the success of the meeting. 
For myself, there intervened a considerable period of distrust, 
both of the Koreans and of my ability to judge them fairly. 
Of one thing, however, I was becoming reasonably sure: 
the prophetic voice, exalting righteousness and openly 
condemning the vices of cowardice, lying, injustice, and 
cruel prejudice and race-hatred, is needed above all else in 
speech to the Koreans. I asked myself, and was unable to 
answer: Are the Christian agencies at work in Korea 
furnishing that voice, in a manner and measure to meet the 
need? 

The next morning, on returning from a walk with one of 
the foreign secretaries of the Young Men's Association, we 
stood for some time upon the steps of Miss Sontag's house 
discussing the decision of the day before. All the excuses 
for the Korean attitude toward any endeavors to help them 
which could, even in the remotest way, be connected with 
their anti- Japanese prejudices, were admitted; they were 
indeed "natural" (in the much-abused meaning of the word), 
but they were neither reasonable nor Christian. Besides, 
they were rendered particularly unmanly by the fact that 
these same Koreans were ready enough to profit, individually 
and collectively, by Japanese money and influence; and 
they were eager and crafty to use the religious institutions 
afforded them by Christian money, for the furthering of 
heathenish purposes and even criminal designs. The best 
thing which the " guest of Marquis Ito" could, therefore, do 
for the Koreans themselves was to let them know how, in his 
judgment, they were to be measured by the standards of 
morals and religion which they had professed to adopt. On 



54 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

going in to tiffin, somewhat late from this discussion, I found 
by my plate the cards of five Korean gentlemen, prominent 
in Christian circles, who had called in my absence. The 
next day information was received that these gentlemen had 
come to thank me for my previous work in their country's 
behalf and to suggest their wish to have the work continued. 

As a consequence of this implied invitation, one more pub- 
lic address was advertised for a Korean audience in Seoul. 
It was to be in the Association Hall, and its topic "The 
Seven Cardinal Virtues." On the evening of Friday, May 
3d, some four hundred were present, including the Roman 
Catholic Archbishop, whose acquaintance I had made only 
two days before. Either because of the hot weather, or of 
the character of the address, or of the audience, the interest 
seemed less than at any of the previous lectures. The time 
to terminate the series of talks on topics so little stimulating 
and satisfying to the desire for "look-see," and for emotional 
excitement, had plainly arrived. Probably, eight addresses 
on such serious topics, with an attendance averaging perhaps 
500 to 600 each, ought at the present time in Korea to be 
gratifying to any speaker. However this may be, the address 
of May 3d was the last of my experiences with Korean audi- 
ences in Seoul. 

Meantime, however, other invitations to speak in the cap- 
ital city of Korea had been received and were waiting for 
their turn. Soon after our arrival, one of the Japanese 
pastors called to say that it had been arranged for me, by one 
of the teachers, to address the patronesses of a school for 
Korean girls bearing the name, and profiting by the favors, 
of Lady Om. Although other plans had previously been 
made, in order to save her reputation with the "leading 
lady" of Korea, a rebuke was sent to this teacher for en- 
gaging her speaker without first consulting him; but the 
invitation was accepted. [In justice to the Koreans, it 



LIFE IN SEOUL 55 

should be said that the person guilty of this indiscretion was 
a Japanese. Indeed, to pledge the speaker, and even to 
select his time and topic for him, is a sort of morally doubtful 
enterprise, out of which even the New Japan has not as yet 
wholly emerged]. The talk at Lady Om's School was in no 
respect a success. Although both substance and style were 
made as simple as possible, the Korean girl who had studied 
abroad and was, therefore, thought competent to interpret, 
completely failed in this office. And when the Japanese 
pastor, who had mediated the invitation, followed with an 
address in his native language which was to convey the sub- 
stance of the same thought to the Japanese teachers and 
patronesses of the school, he delivered so prolonged and 
brilliant an oration that the speaker whose few simple words 
served as a text for it all, was obliged to commit a breach of 
etiquette by leaving before the customary sequence of cakes. 

In addressing Japanese audiences in Seoul, as elsewhere 
in Korea and all over Japan, I felt entirely at home. It was 
characteristic of them in this foreign land, as it was in the 
home country at the same time, that they were, above all, 
desirous to hear the subjects discussed about which I most 
desired to speak. The day when the nation had expected a full 
salvation from "science " and military prowess, without morals, 
has happily gone by. Its leaders, whether in educational 
circles or in the army and navy, in civil service, and largely, 
too, in business, are becoming convinced that the "spirit" 
of Japan must be revived, retained, made more comprehen- 
sive, purified, elevated.; if the triumphs of war are to be fol- 
lowed by ,the wished-for successes in the ensuing peace. 
Thus in Korea, as everywhere from Nagasaki to Sapporo, in 
primary schools, commercial schools, and in the university, I 
found the interest of the Japanese in ethical subjects supreme. 

When, then, an invitation was received to be present at a 
banquet given by the "Economics Club," of which Mr. 



56 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Ichihara (manager of the Dai-Ichi Ginko or branches of the 
First Bank of Japan in Seoul) is president, and to speak there, 
I was glad of the opportunity not only to meet friends, 
but also to express certain cherished thoughts on the relations 
of ethics and economics. The Marquis Ito was present at 
this meeting of the club for the first time. In a lengthy 
address, spoken with his usual careful " picking of words," 
the Marquis emphasized the need that the Japanese should 
set before the Koreans an example of honesty and fairness 
in their economic relations. He dwelt upon the thought that 
the one hundred and seventy who were present, and who 
represented the principal Japanese business interests in 
Korea, should show how the Japanese national policy is 
based upon the principle of unselfishness; and how Japan has 
declared for, and means to stand for, "the open door." In 
welcoming me he repeated, on this public occasion, what he 
had said in the privacy of the interview at Kyoto, with the 
following words: "Taking advantage of his visit to Japan, 
I have invited Professor Ladd, whom I have the honor and 
the pleasure of considering as a friend of several years stand- 
ing, to come over here and favor me with his frank and inde- 
pendent views on the situation. What I want is independent 
views. I trust he knows this very well. I trust his observa- 
tions will be of great help to me." 

In replying to the address of His Excellency, after apologiz- 
ing to President Ichihara for criticising the school of econ- 
omics in which he had been trained (Mr. Ichihara studied 
this subject in the United States), for failure to emphasize 
the important and unalterable relations which exist between 
moral principles and economical policy, I expressed my 
gratification at the triumph of the newer school which builds 
on history, psychology, and ethics. I then spoke of the im- 
portance of regarding moral principles as fundamental in all 
practical ways, for the most successful handling of the 



LIFE IN SEOUL 57 

delicate political and economical, as well as social interests, 
of both Japan and Korea. The observations of both speak- 
ers to the same effect were seriously listened to and heartily 
commended by this influential group of Japanese financiers 
in Korea. Between these gentlemen and the unscrupulous 
and mischievous rabble of their countrymen, who poured 
into Korea at the close of the war with Russia, a grave dis- 
tinction must constantly be made by those who would under- 
stand the situation there. 

The Japanese ladies in Seoul have formed themselves into 
several flourishing ' societies, the most important of which, 
perhaps, is the " Ladies' Patriotic Association." This Asso- 
ciation is not only useful as an organ for benevolent work 
among the widows and orphans of the Japanese soldiers, 
and among the soldiers now on service in Korea, but it has 
already done much to break down the barriers which ex- 
clude Korean women of the upper classes from similar 
offices, as well as those which separate the women of the two 
nationalities. It is, therefore, admirably adapted to further 
indirectly the purposes' of the Resident- General in main- 
taining the honor and welfare of Japan by promoting the 
good of Korea. On Wednesday of the week following the 
address before the Economics Club, I spoke to some sixty 
Japanese ladies, and about the same number of gentlemen, 
under the auspices of this Association. The theme was the 
importance and value of relations of friendship between the 
two countries, as an appeal to the patriotism of those who 
must be relied upon to bring about these relations. A few 
Korean ladies also were present at this gathering. And 
when, at a collation which followed in the Japanese Club- 
House of Seoul, Mrs. Ladd made a short address to the 
ladies, a response in few words was made in Japanese by 
Mrs. Megata, the wife of the Financial Adviser to the Korean 
Government, and a yet longer one, in the same language, by 



58 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITU 

Mrs. Yi Chi-yung, the wife of the then acting Korean Minister 
for Home Affairs. Such incidents as these may seem trivial, 
but they are really noteworthy as the beginnings of what 
may well grow into a satisfactory practical solution of the 
difficult problem of establishing a Japanese Protectorate over 
Korea in a way to secure the honor and welfare of both 
nations. 

The remaining two addresses to Japanese audiences in 
Seoul were not particularly significant as bearing upon the 
interests I was trying to serve. They were, however, sug- 
gestive as to certain changes going on in Korea which are 
destined to assist in the redemption of the country. These 
were an address on an educational topic to about sixty teach- 
ers who met in the fine, large brick school-building which 
marks conspicuously the Japanese ideal in this matter; and 
a talk on the relation of religion to social reform, given in 
one of the Japanese churches to an audience of a union 
character, representing the Christian work among their own 
countrymen by pastors imported from Japan. An address 
at the annual meeting of the Bible Society, an address at a 
meeting of the Asiatic Society, and one or two other talks, 
completed my work of this character, so far as the city of Seoul 
was concerned. 

It will be remembered that the more important -work in 
which the Japanese Resident- General in Korea hoped I 
might be of some assistance could not be done merely by 
making public addresses, however well received by the 
Koreans themselves. It was evident that his plans for up- 
lifting by pacific measures the economical and educational 
condition of the Korean people were being misunderstood 
and hindered, not only by those foreigners who had selfish 
interests to promote, but also by some who ought to co- 
operate in every unselfish way. These " anti- Japanese " 
foreigners were of several nationalities (so far as the diplo- 



LIFE IN SEOUL 59 

mats and, business men were concerned) ; but the mission- 
aries were, for the most part, my own countrymen. In the 
complaint of Marquis Ito, there was never at any time the 
least trace of bitterness, although the fact was obvious that 
he felt the credit of his nation, as well as of his own adminis- 
tration, to be deeply concerned. But surely, if both Marquis 
Ito and the missionaries were striving to promote what was 
best for the cause of the Korean nation and of humanity in 
the Far East, the disclosure of this fact ought to make more 
easy the adjustment of the delicate relations involved in the 
different kinds and methods of their benevolent work. I 
knew that the Marquis desired this friendly understanding 
and cordial co-operation. I thought it right that foreign 
missionaries should be not less moved than was the Resident- 
General by the same desire. Union and sympathy, rather 
than opposition or indifference, ought to prevail between the 
industrial and educational interests and the more definitively 
moral and religious. 

The larger aspects of the missionary problem in Korea will 
be briefly treated in another connection. At present it is 
enough to describe the conclusions on this subject at which 
I was forced to arrive, and to tell something of my personal 
experiences. There had, doubtless, been much provocation 
to form a poor opinion of the character and intentions of the 
Japanese populace which had crowded into the cities of 
Seoul and Pyeng-yang during and after the war with Russia. 
They had cheated and maltreated the Koreans and had 
brought suspicion and, in some instances, disgrace upon the 
fair fame of Japan. None of the other foreigners were 
readier to make accusation of this than were the reputable 
Japanese to confess and deplore the same thing. But all the 
robbery and oppression by these unfriendly foreigners was 
as nothing compared with what the Koreans had suffered 
from their own countrymen through hundreds of years. 



60 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Moreover, at this very time, almost without exception, a 
Korean was to be found back of, or associated with, a Japan- 
ese in each scheme for swindling and in each act of injustice 
or oppression. 

On the other hand, the conduct of some of the mission- 
aries had not been altogether judicious or even fair and just. 
As a body they seemed inclined to be over-credulous and easy 
to deceive by the falsehoods and exaggerations of their own 
converts. Not unnaturally, but it would seem unwisely, 
they had been somewhat too extravagant in praise of the 
negative virtues of the Koreans, and somewhat too sparing 
in demanding the more manly moral qualities of sincerity, 
courage, veracity, and sturdy loyalty to justice and to truth. 
And to quote expressions heard from the lips of some of the 
ladies there had been too much talk with foreigners and 
before the natives, about the "dear Koreans"; and "We 
do not love the Japanese." That certain letters home in 
part private and not designed for publication by the writer, 
and in part written by missionaries themselves for the press, 
or by chance visitors or newspaper correspondents to make 
public stories told to them by the missionaries had created 
strong impressions unfavorable to the success of the Japanese 
Protectorate, was not a matter of merely private information. 
Moreover, the connection, both implicit and obvious, be- 
tween these workers in the moral and religious interests of 
Korea and the enterprises of Mr. Homer B. Hulbert and his 
colleagues in the alleged political interests of the Korean 
Court, could not fail to be interpreted by both foreigners and 
Koreans as hostile to the policy of the Japanese Government. 
Even as late as August, 1907, an open letter than which 
anything more insulting or abusive of the Japanese nation 
has seldom been published was written by a Church of 
England missionary. 

Dr. Jones and I had talked over the situation and the policy 



LIFE IN SEOUL 61 

of the missionary body, as touching the real and lasting 
advance of morals and religion in Korea, many times before 
the hour when the point of turning was reached. I had 
found him always frank, fair, and sympathetic with the diffi- 
cult and complicated interests of both peoples. He had 
assured me that, personally, Marquis Ito was steadily gaining 
in the confidence of all the foreigners, including the mission- 
aries, and even of the Koreans themselves. But the prejudice 
and bitterness of feeling toward the Japanese generally re- 
mained unchanged; and every one seemed to be doubting 
whether the policy of the Resident- General could win its 
way. I had steadily maintained the position that, whatever 
might have been true in the past, the welfare of Korea and the 
success of missions there, depended upon a positive and 
hearty co-operation of all the factors common to both forms 
of good influence. I had previously told Marquis Ito that, 
in my judgment, the Christian movement now in progress 
would be the most important help toward the success of his 
policy in uplifting the Korean people. His Excellency, I 
had said to Dr. Jones, had held out the hand to the mission- 
aries; for them, through fear of losing influence among the 
Koreans, or especially at the Korean Court, to refuse to take 
this hand, seemed to me not only unwise but in a measure un- 
Christian. Without the success of the powerful influence 
wielded by the Resident-General for the economical and educa- 
tional improvement of Korea for developing its industries, 
founding schools and hospitals, making the conditions of life 
more comfortable and sanitary, purging the corrupt court, and 
securing law, order, and the administration of justice in the 
country magistracies preaching, Bible-teaching, and colpor- 
teurage, must remain forever relatively unavailing. Moreover, 
I was becoming convinced that a large proportion of the pres- 
ent interest of the Koreans in the missionary movement had, 
either in pure or mixed form, political motives behind it. 



62 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

It was on Thursday, May 2d, that the Korean Daily 
News the paper whose most obvious purpose seemed to be, 
in its English edition, to foster prejudice against the Japanese 
and to obstruct the policy of the Resident- General, and in its 
native edition to mislead the Koreans and excite them to 
sedition published the following "telegrams about Korea 
from American papers" as likely to " prove of local interest" 
(sic). [It should be remembered that this date was only 
some ten days after the assassination of the Minister of the 
Household Department, Mr. Pak Yong-wha, and somewhat 
more than a month after the attempted assassination of the 
Minister of War.] "American missionaries writing from 
Korea recently tell of a most intolerable state of affairs in that 
country where the Japanese have been acting in such a high- 
handed manner as to cause even the humble native to revolt. 
The Emperor is held a prisoner and appears to be in daily 
terror of his life. Nor have the aggressions of the Japanese 
been confined to the natives of Korea. Americans, engaged 
chiefly in mining enterprises, had it plainly demonstrated that 
Korea is no place for them and that they would better move 
out. A representative of these mining interests" (the true 
story of this 'mining representative' will be told elsewhere) 
"is now either at or on his way to Washington to see if they 
cannot obtain redress from their government. This latest 
development in the Korean situation, the boycot, will doubt- 
less precipitate matters in Korea." 

These "telegrams," published May 2d in Seoul, bore date 
of San Francisco, April ist. It so happened that Dr. Jones 
came to my office on the early morning of the date of this 
publication. Finding that he had not read the article in the 
Korean Daily News, I called his attention to it ; and I then 
spoke more plainly about the urgent necessity of a change of 
attitude on the part of the missionaries than I had ever 
spoken before. It was apparent, I urged, that the negative, 



LIFE IN SEOUL 63 

non-committal position would no longer suffice. Instead of 
its being justifiable under the plea of not engaging in politics, 
the very reverse was true. The missionaries in Korea, either 
unwittingly or half-willingly, were being used, both in Korea 
and in the United States, to foster anti- Japanese feeling as 
supported by exaggerations, falsehoods, and only half-truths. 
They were thus, I feared, helping to encourage the very worst 
and most dangerous elements in both countries. There was 
real danger that, if this course was persisted in, the peaceful 
policy of Marquis Ito, with its patient and generous effort to 
promote the development of the Korean people, might be 
discouraged. And if the mailed fist were invited, or seemed 
necessary, to maintain the reasonable and unalterable inten- 
tion of Japan never again to leave Korea to be a prey to 
foreign intrigues against herself and to the degradation of 
its own corrupt government, the cause of Christian mis- 
sions in Korea surely would not fare better than it easily 
could by establishing friendly relations of co-operation with 
the existing Protectorate. The events of October, 1895, 
and of the following years, ought not to be so easily 
forgotten. 

Two days later the following, under the heading of " Mar- 
quis Ito and Christian Missionaries," appeared in the Seoul 
Press. "His Excellency Marquis Ito received Dr. George 
Heber Jones and Dr. W. B. Scranton on Thursday afternoon. 
The work of the churches in Korea was discussed and the 
visitors assured His Excellency that the reports, reproduced 
from American papers, claiming that the Christian mission- 
aries were antagonistic to the Resident-General and his 
policy in Korea, neither represented their personal sentiments 
nor those of their colleagues; that His Excellency might feel 
assured of their sincere sympathy and co-operation in all 
measures looking toward the betterment of the Korean people. 
The missionaries make it a rule to stand aloof from political 



64 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

matters, finding in the moral and spiritual uplift of the 
Korean people full scope for activity." 

"His Excellency assured the visitors that he gave no 
credence to the reports thus circulated, and that he entertained 
no suspicion nor doubt of the missionaries in Korea. He 
.fully recognized the value of the work they were doing for 
the moral and spiritual betterment of the Koreans, and wished 
them every success." 

This public announcement of the establishment of friendly 
relations between the Marquis Ito and an influential portion 
of the missionary body in Korea was drawn up in semi- 
official fashion. The gentlemen w r ho undertook the duty of 
making the advances toward the Resident- General were 
convicted as is every one who comes into anything ap- 
proaching familiar relations with him of the complete 
sincerity of his purpose toward the people of Korea, and of 
his frank and fair-minded policy toward all foreign interests. 
The Marquis himself, after the interview, requested that the 
substance of it might be made known to the public. Each 
party prepared with care the few words which declared this 
unselfish alliance between the representative of His Imperial 
Majesty, the Emperor of Japan, in Korea and these represen- 
tative teachers of religion, in the common effort to promote 
the industrial, educational, moral, and religious welfare of a 
hitherto unhappy nation. Such an alliance as we may 
reasonably hope will contribute to the reputation for 
wisdom and unselfishness of both parties to it. At any rate, 
as soon appeared, the immediate results were in the direction 
of an enlarged future good. 



CHAPTER IV 

LIFE IN SEOUL (CONTINUED) 

THE winter and spring of 1907 in Korea were, from the point 
of view of one interested in this kind of politics, a very lively 
period, even for a country traditionally accustomed to similar 
performances. Four attempts at assassination of the Ministry 
one of which was successful; daily disclosures of intrigue, 
plot and counter-plot; revolts against the country magistrates 
which took the form of refusal to pay taxes, of attacks upon 
the police, and of highway robbery; plans for plundering the 
resources of the nation under plausible pretence of schemes 
for "promoting" the nation's resources; foolish excitements 
selfishly fostered by writers for the press who had their own 
interests to secure; and quite as foolish, but less selfish, en- 
deavors for increase of public welfare, by those benevolently 
inclined; secret arrangements for the despatch of the un- 
fortunate delegation to the Hague, accompanied by stealings 
from the impoverished royal treasury to the extent of several 
hundred thousand yen; and, finally, a change, not only in 
the personnel of the Ministry but in its very constitution and 
mode of procedure, which amounted to a bloodless revolution 
these and other like events were crowded into this one 
half-year. Meantime, especially after the return of the 
Resident-General, the foundations of a new industrial and 
educational development were being laid; and the arrange- 
ments for a systematic administration of law and justice were 
quietly made ready. An extensive religious revival was in 

65 



66 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

progress with phenomena corresponding to those familiar to 
students of such subjects, when the moral power of a higher 
religion first makes itself felt among a people who are ignorant 
devil- and spirit- worshippers and are habitually negligent or 
corrupt in respect of the manliest virtues. All this ferment 
was both caused, ajid pervaded in its characteristics, by the 
Korean national hatred of the race that was destined to 
subdue and, as we hope, redeem them. 

During Marquis Ito's absence in Japan those opposed to 
the workings of the recently established Japanese Protectorate 
over Korea were indeed busily engaged. Their various enter- 
prises took the several forms mentioned above. As to assas- 
sination, one unsuccessful attempt had been made some time 
before the Marquis' return to Korea. A beautiful box of 
nickel was sent as a present to acting Prime Minister Pak. 
No one of the Korean Court, being wise in their generation, 
ventured to examine its contents or even to raise the lid of the 
box. Subsequently the Resident-General examined it himself. 
It proved to be an ingenious contrivance by which the turning 
of the key and lifting the lid would pull the trigger of a pistol 
and explode the powder with which the box was filled. Both 
box and pistol were of American manufacture. The inten- 
tion of the pretended present, which it was doubtless hoped 
would be the more eagerly accepted and naively dealt with, 
since it ostensibly came from so "friendly" a country, needs 
no investigation. The precise source of the murderous gift 
will perhaps never be accurately known. 

The day but one before our arrival in Seoul another un- 
successful attempt at political murder was made this time 
in daylight and upon one of the principal thoroughfares. 
The object of attack was Mr. Kwon, the Minister of War, 
who was riding in a jinrikisha surrounded by his official 
guard. The following account is taken from the Seoul Press 
of Friday, March 29th: 



LIFE IN SEOUL 67 

The Korean Minister of War had a narrow escape on Monday 
from a daring attempt on his life. The would-be assassins 
there were two or probably more succeeded. in getting away from 
the Japanese policeman in the Korean service, who seems to have 
had a most desperate struggle with them and some people who 
came to their assistance (that is, the assistance of the assassins). 
He, however, succeeded in taking the pistol, which had been 
fired twice upon the Minister, happily without any effect. One 
of the accomplices was shortly after arrested by another Japanese 
policeman in the Korean service in the vicinity of the Minister's 
residence. According to a statement made by this prisoner, he 
belongs to a band of eighteen men from South Korea, who are 
alleged to have recently entered Seoul for the purpose cf assassinat- 
ing the Cabinet Ministers. These men are further alleged to be 
the remnants of the so-called " volunteer" insurgents of last year. 
There seems, however, reason to suspect the truth of this state- 
ment; it is not unlikely that motives of a political character have 
been adduced to cover a crime prompted by personal enmity or 
rivalry. Such things have constantly occurred in this country in 
recent years. Rumors are rife as to the true origination of the 
dastardly attempt on Mr. Kwon's life, but we do not consider it 
necessary to take any notice of them they are mostly of such an 
extraordinary character that they will certainly be dismissed as 
utterly inconceivable by anybody not accustomed to the peculiar 
ways of politics in Seoul. 

One remark should be added to complete this public 
account; and one other to enable the observer to read be- 
tween the lines. There were Korean body-guards and 
policemen and citizens at hand; but only one Japanese 
policeman made any attempt to save the Minister's life or to 
arrest the assassins. The rumors rife, so inconceivable to 
"anybody not accustomed" to the "politics" of Seoul, 
suggested, as usual, that it would be well not to examine too 
closely into the plot, lest some one might be uncovered who 
stood "higher up" in the court circles of Korea. 



68 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

The third attempt at assassination was limited to the dis- 
covery and immediate flight of the intruder as he was trying 
to climb the wall of the enclosure of acting Prime Minister 
Pak. But the fourth attempt did not terminate so harm- 
lessly. In brief, the history of this political murder was as 
follows (its date was April 2ist): 

On Sunday evening, Mr. Pak Yong-hwa, Director of the Audit 
Bureau of the Imperial Household Department, was assassinated 
at his house. On that evening Mr. Pak had nearly a dozen visit- 
ors, and while he was conversing with them shortly after ten 
o'clock, the card of another visitor, not known to him, was brought 
in. Mr. Pak saw the man in a separate room, and no sooner had 
he begun to talk with him than another man rushed into the room 
through a window and stabbed Mr. Pak in the right breast, in- 
flicting a wound four inches deep. Seeing their victim drop 
mortally wounded, the assassins hurriedly left, discharging a few 
shots from their revolvers to prevent pursuit. They are said to 
have been attired in foreign dress, and from their accent it is in- 
ferred that they are most probably from Keng-Sang-do. 

The unfortunate Minister died from his wound while in 
the palanquin on the way to the Japanese hospital. Marquis 
Ito, supposing from the news received by telephone that act- 
ing Prime Minister Pak was the victim, started at once for 
the hospital; but learning, before reaching there, of the real 
name of the victim, and of his death, he returned to the 
Residency. The next day H. M. the Emperor caused a 
chamberlain to pay a visit of condolence to Mr. Pak's resi- 
dence: but the city of Seoul and the country of Korea went 
about its business of intrigue or its work of tilling the fields, 
as though nothing unusual had happened. The distinction 
between such events here and in Russia should be borne in 
mind by one trying to estimate their significance. In Korea 
there is no immediate tangible interest, affecting life, liberty, 
or property, for the individual, at stake, to justify violence. 



LIFE IN SEOUL 69 

Where the real reasons are not thoroughly selfish and cor- 
rupt as indeed in most cases they are a misguided patriot- 
ism, with a large mixture of hypocritical sentimentality, is 
the motive for the political murders of Korea. The real 
patriots, if their feeling is intense enough and their courage 
sufficient, commit suicide; and those of less degree of inten- 
sity refuse to accept office under a foreign protectorate! 

In general, it had hitherto been only the court officials them- 
selves who much cared as to what persons were selected by 
the Emperor for the different high offices in Seoul itself. 
They, too, had been chiefly interested in the more serious 
question as to who it is of these officials that gets himself 
assassinated. The peasants and pedlers, who are the travel- 
ling merchants in the country districts, care only about the 
local magistrates and about the bearable amount of their 
"squeezes." But under the administration of Marquis Ito 
assassination of officers whose character and official acts 
sustain such important relations to the vital interests of both 
Japan and Korea, cannot now be allowed its traditional 
impunity. Investigation into the authors and promoters of 
this plot, therefore, quietly began and was carried as far 
upward as seemed desirable or necessary. According to the 
Korean Daily News, the three Koreans La In-yung, Aw 
Ki-ho, and Kim In-sik who on April ist "went to the 
Supreme Court in Seoul and gave themselves up, stating 
that they were the ones who had tried to kill the Minister 
of War," "seem to have been actuated by no selfish im- 
pulses." The same paper calls attention to the claim that 
the plan was to kill all the five Cabinet Ministers "who 
signed the last treaty with Japan"; and also to the fact that 
these same men had been to Japan to memorialize the Japan- 
ese Emperor with reference to the condition of Korea under 
the protectorate of the empire whose head was His Majesty 
himself. This is as far as the paper cared to go at this time 



70 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

in apologizing for the attempt at wholesale murder; but 
there is no doubt that the attempt itself was not at all dis- 
pleasing to the court officials of the other party than the one 
in power or to the people generally. 

The truer story is as follows : The searchings of the police 
after those who attempted the assassination of the Minister of 
War resulted in picking up a number of them from various 
quarters. These rascals were cross-questioned and one of 
them confessed and implicated as back of the plot financially, 
no less important a personage than the ex-Minister of the 
Imperial Household, Yi Yong-tai. This is the man who 
was once prevented by foreign influence, on account of his 
thoroughly evil reputation, from going to Washington as 
Minister from Korea. He is known as a past-master in all 
kinds of craft and corruption, thoroughly untrustworthy; 
although he had formerly been elevated by the Emperor to 
the position of Minister of the Interior. Now, it so happened 
that at the very time of the examination of the assassins, 
this same gentleman was in an adjoining room where he and 
those with him could easily hear everything said in answer 
to the cross-questioning. It is no wonder, then, that Mr. 
Yi Yong-tai confessed that he himself was indeed one of the 
band of patriots who had attempted the gallant measure of 
paying hired assassins to make way with their political rivals 
as I have already said, a recognized, legitimate political 
measure throughout Korean history. 

The progress and result of the investigations into this plot 
of assassination are so significant that this summary account 
from the Seoul Press is well worthy of reflective considera- 
tion: 

The authors of the late unsuccessful attempt on the life of Mr. 
Kwon, the War Minister, have at last been established. The plot 
is of much greater magnitude than originally supposed, and more 
than thirty men are now under arrest. The leaders of the con- 



LIFE IN SEOUL 71 

spiracy are two South Chul-la-do men, La In-yung and Aw Ki-ho 
by name. It is stated that they are men of learning and command 
some respect among their neighbors. Some days ago they sur- 
rendered themselves to the Supreme Court and confessed all that 
had happened. From their own statements it appears that the 
events which led them to the dastardly attempt are rather his- 
torical than temporary. Since the days of the Japan-China war 
they have been imbued with the idea that the peace of Korea 
could be preserved only through the separate independence of 
Japan, China, and Korea. Guided by this idea they did all 
things in their power to prevent Russia from gaining ascendancy in 
this country after that war; and on the outbreak of the Russo- 
Japanese war they prayed, so they say, for the victory of Japan, 
as her Imperial declaration of war made reference to the main- 
tenance of the territorial integrity of the peninsula. In June, 
1905, the two men, with one Yi, a school teacher, went over to 
Tokyo and made representations to the Household Department 
and Cabinet Ministers, petitioning for Korea's independence. 
On learning from the Japanese press that the conclusion of a 
treaty was on the tapis between Japan and Korea, which would 
transfer the conduct of Korean foreign affairs into the hands of 
the former, they immediately wired to Mr. Pak, the Premier, 
requesting him not to sign the Convention, even if his life were 
threatened. The Convention, however, soon became an accom- 
plished fact in November, 1905, and the three left Tokyo fqr 
home in the next month. But they soon found it impossible to 
enjoy tranquillity at home. Japan began steadily to perform that 
which the Convention of November, 1905, provided for, and they 
again crossed to Japan, in April, 1906. They vainly attempted 
to persuade some Japanese politicians to start a movement for 
the realization of their cherished ideal. Discouraged by another 
failure, they once more returned to Seoul, and on the initiative 
of La In-yung, they came to the terrible decision that the Premier 
and four Ministers of State, who were responsible for the conclu- 
sion of the Convention, should be assassinated in order to admit 
of the present Government being replaced by a new administra- 
tion, composed of men of greater ability and capable of forcing 



72 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Japan to restore to Korea the conduct of her own affairs. They 
were thus awaiting the advent of a good opportunity. 

On the other hand, a survivor of the Chi Ik-hyun rebellion, 
named Pak Tai-ha, with Kim Tong-pil, arrested on Tuesday, 
and a few others discontented with the present regime, were con- 
spiring here to raise another rebellion; and La and Aw, happen- 
ing to come in contact with these men, a special friendship was 
soon contracted between them. Pak and his associates were 
prevailed upon by La and Aw to abandon their own plan and 
join the plot against the Government in power. Here stepped in 
another person, by name Kim In-sik, hailing from North Chul- 
la-do. Having many acquaintances among the officials of the 
Government, especially among those now out of power, Kim was 
asked to raise a fund necessary for the achievement of their com- 
mon cause; and he succeeded in drawing a sufficient sum from 
the discontents. Yi Yong-tai, ex-Minister of the Imperial House- 
hold, now under arrest, headed the subscription list by contribut- 
ing 1,700 yen, and this was followed by 1,200 yen by Min Hyung- 
sik, Vice-Minister of Education, who was arrested on Thursday 
night, through the medium of Chi Ik-chin, Chief of the Accounts 
Section of the Imperial Guards Bureau in the Household Depart- 
ment, who, in turn, was also arrested on Thursday night. A few 
minor contributions were made by ex-officials, making a total of 
3,400 yen. 

The date originally fixed for the assassination of the five Min- 
isters was the ist of the first moon, when all the high dignitaries 
proceed to the Palace to offer their congratulations to the Em- 
peror. They hired a number of men in Chul-la-do and Kyong- 
sang-do for the purpose; but the plan miscarried owing to the 
belated arrival of these men. The 25th of May was then chosen. 
Some fifty men came up to town in time from the above two prov- 
inces, and five bands, each under the command of a leader, were 
posted along the roads leading to the Palace from the respective 
residences of the Premier, Ministers of the Interior, War, Educa- 
tion and Justice, and Mr. Yi Kun-tak. The company com- 
manded by Aw Ki-ho, which was to do away with Mr. Pak, failed 
through the hesitation of the hired men; but Yi Hong-tai's com- 



LIFE IN SEOUL 73 

pany, charged with the killing of the War Minister, had courage 
enough to make an attempt. Their efforts, however, proved 
abortive, and led to the detection of the plot. 

An analysis of this group of Korean officials and common- 
ers, bent on wholesale political murder of their own country- 
men in office, because the latter were avowedly committed to 
a reform of the economical and judicial condition of Korea, 
without distinction as to the ill success, or even, in certain 
particular cases, the unfaithfulness of these "reformers " shows 
it to have been composed of three classes of persons. There 
were, first, the high-class officials who, with one exception, 
were themselves at the time among the party of the "outs"; 
and who undoubtedly found in this fact the chief crime of 
the Japanese administration against themselves. There 
were, second, the misguided patriots who, beginning with 
an honorable but vain unwillingness to admit the incapacity 
of their country to manage its own affairs, had sunken to the 
condition of prejudice and hatred which made them plan to 
murder their own cabinet ministers, because the latter had, 
however reluctantly, admitted this incapacity and acted ac- 
cordingly. And there was, third, that basest of all criminals, 
the cold-blooded, unprincipled, hired assassin. 

The administration of justice in an even-handed manner 
is peculiarly difficult in Korea; and, indeed, until recently no 
serious attempt at such a thing has ever been made. In the 
case of this complicated plot . for assassinating the entire 
Korean Cabinet, it should be borne in mind that several of 
its chief promoters were very highly connected; they were, 
indeed, connected well up towards His Imperial Majesty on 
his throne. Considering this fact, the issue when reached 
showed a marked improvement already established in judicial 
affairs. It was indeed rumored and perhaps correctly 
that Mr. Min Hyung-sik, the Vice-Minister of Education, 



74 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS IT<3 

underwent preliminary examination, in the old-fashioned 
Korean style, by being cruelly beaten. And the anti- Japanese 
press tried to make it count against Marquis Ito's measures 
for judicial reform that he had not prevented the traditional 
Korean mode of torturing suspects ! But this way of examin- 
ing criminals was still legal in Korea. It was also said that 
Mr. Yi Yon-yung, chief of the Supreme Court, sent in his 
resignation, on the ground that, as his younger brother was 
one of the five ministers who were doomed to death by the 
assassins, it would not be fair for him to try the case. 

At the time of our leaving Seoul the trial of these con- 
spirators was not finished. But on Wednesday, July 3d, at 
4 p. M., the Supreme Court returned judgment upon twenty- 
nine persons who had been tried and convicted of connection 
with the plot to assassinate those Korean officials who took 
part in the Japanese-Korean Convention of November, 1905. 
Three of the hired murderers who, besides this crime, were 
found to have been previously guilty of armed robbery, were 
sentenced to death. The others received sentences of exile 
(a penalty feared more than death by many Korean officials), 
for periods of from five to ten years. Among those to whom 
the longest sentence of exile was measured out, were the 
notable names of Yi Yong-tai, ex-Minister of the Imperial 
Household; Soh Chang-sik, ex-Minister Resident, and my 
auditor at the lectures on education, Min Hyung-sik, Vice- 
Minister of Education. 

Even while the examination of this group of assassins was 
going on, and after the change in the Ministry had been 
effected, another plot against the lives of the same men was 
discovered. This conspiracy was, however, less important as 
respects the rank of the persons involved and less extensive in 
the number of those participating. Most of the ten Koreans 
thought to be concerned in it belonged to the Yang-ban class, 
or the "gentry," and all were followers of Confucianism. 



LIFE IN SEOUL 75 

The opinion prevailed that the motive of these conspirators 
was scarcely to any degree patriotic; but that their principal 
object was to collect money from the disappointed political 
groups of the capital. At all events, seven of the criminals 
were arrested, the plot broken up thoroughly, and another 
lesson given to Korean officialdom that assassination is no 
longer to be so sure a path to official promotion and Imperial 
influence as it has too often been in the past history of the 
country. 

An amusing but significant incident illustrative of Korean 
official procedure came under my own observation. Prince 
Tokugawa, who had been staying somewhat more than a 
week at Miss Sontag's, before leaving Korea, gave an u at 
home" to about one hundred and fifty invited guests. Soon 
after the company had assembled, and while the ladies were 
in the drawing-room and the gentlemen in the large outer, 
enclosed verandah, suddenly the electric lights went out and 
the company were left in total darkness. The gentleman 
with whom I was conversing at the moment and I looked 
through, the glass doors of the verandah and observed that 
the electric lights outside were still burning. At this dis- 
covery my companion, who had had some experience in the 
ways of Seoul diplomacy, became somewhat disturbed, and 
remarked: "Such things sometimes happen by previous ar- 
rangement." Almost immediately after the sudden darkness 
came on, a servant emerged from the dining-hall with a 
lighted taper, and crossing to the drawing-room proceeded to 
light the numerous candelabra. At the heels of the servant 
followed Prince Eui Wha, pale with fright, on his way 
from the verandah to the drawing-room, where he slipped 
behind a barricade of ladies and planted himself against the 
wall. It should be remembered in explanation of so singular 
behavior that this Prince, although he is the Emperor's son 
by a concubine, is hated by no fewer than three different 



76 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

parties; these are the Min family, who favor the succession 
of the son of the Queen, the party of Lady Om, who would 
gladly see her young son come to the throne, and the violently 
anti- Japanese crowd who believe that Prince Eui Wha is too 
much under Japanese influences. It had been rumored 
previously that a letter had threatened him with assassination. 
However this may be, the present was not the expected oc- 
casion; for examination showed that the burning-out of a 
fuse was the real cause of the sudden darkness : and a servant 
repaired the connection so that, just as a workman hastily 
summoned from the electric plant, entered the front door, the 
lights as suddenly came on again. 

The plots for assassination undoubtedly contributed to the 
causes which had already for some time been at work to 
make necessary a change in the Ministry. In spite of the 
enmity which the existing Cabinet had excited on account 
of its unwilling part in the Convention of November, 1905, 
it had held together for a remarkably long period of time. 
Not all its members, however, were equally sincere or efficient 
in carrying out the reforms to which they had pledged them- 
selves; at least one of its members had been accused of a 
notable attempt at the old-time manner of corrupt adminis- 
tration of office. The II Chin-hoi people, or members of 
a numerous so-called " Independence Society," had been 
"heckling the Cabinet Ministers" by accusing them of 
venality and incapacity. In a memorial forwarded to the 
Government by its committee, the beginning read: "We 
herewith write you and enumerate your faults"; the memorial 
ended with the amusingly frank declaration : "The only thing 
for you Cabinet Ministers to do is to resign your posts and 
retire into private life. Your armed body-guards are entirely 
useless. If you do your duties assiduously and honestly, 
every one will love you; but if you pursue idle and vicious 
courses, every man's hand will be against you."* Moreover, 



LIFE IN SEOUL 77 

the acting Prime Minister Pak, although of good intentions, 
had not developed the ability to lead and control his colleagues, 
and he was probably acting wisely when he insisted on having 
his resignation accepted. The resignation of their chief 
involved the resignations of all and the formation of a new 
Ministry although not necessarily of a Ministry composed 
wholly of new members. 

On returning to "Maison Sontag" about ten o'clock 
(Wednesday, May 22d) from dining out we found our hostess 
rather worn in body and mentally disturbed ; she had herself 
just reached home after some seven hours of continuous 
service in the Palace. Mademoiselle also appeared anxious 
about the comfort and health of the Marquis Ito, who had 
himself been there during a similar long period, and who had 
eaten and drunk nothing except a sandwich and a glass of 
claret sent in by her to His Excellency. The resignation of 
Premier Pak had been tendered on the Monday previous. 
The next morning but one, the Seoul Press, published the fol- 
lowing announcement: 

Marquis Ito's audience with the Emperor of Korea on Wednes- 
day was a protracted one, it being nearly ten o'clock in the evening 
before His Excellency left the palace. During the five hours that 
he was with His Majesty, the old cabinet was dismissed and a new 
one called into existence. The new Ministry thus formed is com- 
posed as follows: 

Prime Minister Yi Wan-yong. 

Minister of Justice ....*.. Yi Ha-yong. 

Minister of Finance Min Yong-ki. 

Minister of the Interior .... In Sun-jun. 

Minister of War Yi Pyong-mu. 

Minister of Education . . . . Yi Chai-kon. 

As the same paper subsequently remarked, this change of 
government, which had taken place with a quite unequalled 



78 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

promptitude and quiet, followed upon a conversation in which 
the " Resident- General spoke to the Emperor on the general 
situation in a remarkably frank and outspoken manner." 

The substance of this conversation between Marquis Ito 
and the Korean Emperor in this memorable interview was 
probably somewhat as follows: His Majesty was reminded 
of the Marquis' regret that a change of Ministry had become 
necessary; for under existing circumstances it was desirable 
to avoid as much as possible the friction likely to accompany 
such a change. But Minister Pak insisted on resigning and 
the others, of course, must follow his example. Now the 
history of the country showed, as the Emperor well knew, that 
changes in the Cabinet were a signal for all manner of con- 
fusion in the Government, caused by the intrigue of parties 
contending for the control. Promptness of action would 
alone prevent this. His Excellency wished to remain in the 
palace until the new Ministry was constituted. Under 
existing circumstances it was most desirable that the new 
Prime Minister should be a man who could be trusted; and 
that, in order to secure internal harmony and freedom from 
intrigue within the Cabinet itself, he should have a choice 
in the selection of his colleagues. He should also have a 
policy, should explain it to the others, and thus secure their 
intelligent and hearty co-operation and support. In His 
Excellency's opinion, Mr. Yi Wan-yong, the then acting 
Minister of Education, was the man, of all others, most 
suitable for the position of Premier. This advice accom- 
panied, as it doubtless was, by words of plain but friendly 
warning as to the consequences of continuing the old-time 
policy of intrigue, deceit, and submission to the counsels of 
base-born and unscrupulous fellows, who were always 
planning to deceive and ipb the Emperor in order to profit 
themselves was finally followed. 

The Ministry of Agriculture, Commerce and Industry, 



LIFE IN SEOUL 79 

which for practical importance stood next to that of the Prime 
Minister, and which had been rather unworthily filled by its 
previous occupant, was for the time being combined with the 
Prime Minister's. Soon after, the Minister of Justice and 
the Minister of Finance of the new Cabinet insisted upon 
resigning, and Mr. Cho Chung-yung and Mr. Ko Yong-hui 
were appointed to the vacant positions. At the same time 
the vacant portfolio which had been temporarily left in the 
hands of the Prime Minister was given to Mr. Song Pyong- 
chun. With these changes and this additional appointment 
a new Cabinet was arranged in the briefest possible time, 
without popular excitement, and without opportunity for 
corrupt intrigue. 

An analysis of the personnel of the new Ministry shows that 
it was composed of comparatively young men and of men who 
had, on the whole, previously sustained a fair reputation. 
It also was much more obviously a reform Cabinet; its 
material was both more mouldable and more homogeneous. 
The Home Minister had been the President of "Song-kyun 
College" (a Confucian institution); the War Minister, who 
was speedily made a Major- General, had received a thorough 
military education in Japan and had been director of the 
Korean Military Academy. The new Minister of Education 
had at one time been Vice-Minister in the same department. 

Almost immediately the new Cabinet, in accordance with 
the significant decision to hold a Council every Tuesday at 
the official residence of the Resident-General, met to shape 
a more definite public policy. A full report of the speech 
made to them on this occasion by Marquis Ito, and of the 
response made by Premier Yi, was published for Korea, 
Japan, and all the world to read. In this address the Marquis 
claimed that he had now, since his arrival one year ago, acted 
in perfect good faith, with the immovable intention to do all 
in his power to cement friendship between Japan and Korea, 



8o IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

and to develop the latter 's resources. The most urgent need 
for Korea at present was a reformed administration. Re- 
viewing the history of the past thirty years in the Far East, 
with which his own experiences had made him particularly 
familiar, he recalled before them his persistent advocacy of 
peaceful measures as opposed to those of a punitive war. 
But it was for Korea herself to say whether such measures 
should prevail as would insure her independence in home 
affairs and peaceful self -development, or not. If the present 
Cabinet did not agree with him, let them frankly and bravely 
say, No! If they concurred in his opinion, let them free 
themselves of selfish motives and unite in bringing about the 
common good. To this address of Marquis Ito, Mr. Yi, the 
Premier, replied in behalf of his colleagues. After thanking 
the Resident-General for his advice, he promised that the new 
Ministry would unite under his guidance, and "despite all 
obstacles and in the face of any dangers that might lie in the 
way, would endeavor to attain their object the best good 
of their country." 

Other measures followed rapidly, all of which tended to 
constitute a Cabinet which should be a really - effective 
administrative body, relatively free from court intrigue and 
from the fear of internal treachery. These measures, taken 
together, secured a new official system, the beginnings of real 
government for the first time in the history of Korea, as the 
following quotation will show: 

According to the new system the present Council of State is to 
be called hereafter the Cabinet, and the President of the Council 
of State the Prime Minister. The respective Ministers of State 
shall give their advice to the Emperor, and be responsible for the 
management of important matters of State. All laws, imperial 
edicts, the budget, the final account, any and all expenditure that 
is not provided for in the budget, the appointment, dismissal and 
promotion of Government officials and officers, amnesty and 



LIFE IN SEOUL 81 

pardon, and other affairs of State, shall require the deliberation 
and consent of all the Ministers of State as well as the counter- 
signature of them all. In short, the new system aims at the 
enlargement of the power of the Government in order to enable 
it to stand independent of outward influence. 

How complete a bloodless revolution was accomplished in 
this quiet and almost unnoticed way will be made more ap- 
parent later on when it can be viewed in its larger historical 
and political settings. That His Majesty the Korean Em- 
peror did not like the change, needs scarcely to be said. 
The enlargement of the power of the Government meant the 
diminishing of the Imperial power to dispose of the offices, 
the possessions, not only of the Crown but also of individuals 
and of the nation, and the lives of the subjects, without re- 
gard to law, order, justice, or the semblance of equity. There 
is equally little need to say that the Yang-bans and the cor- 
rupt courtiers and local magistrates, as well as the court- 
eunuchs and sorceresses, were in the opposition. But only 
by such changes is to be constituted the true " Passing of 
Korea," in a manner to commend itself to every genuine 
patriot and to all foreigners who honestly care for the good 
of the Koreans and for the welfare of the Far East. 

The Emperor at first was reported to have attacks of being 
"indisposed," which prevented his seeing the Ministers when 
they came for consultation, or for the imperial sanction to 
their acts under the new regime. But, on the whole, his 
health gradually so improved that he was able to accept the 
situation with more apparent acquiescence, if not inner 
complacency. And the fright which soon arose over the 
serious consequences that were to follow his alleged Com- 
mission of Koreans and their " foreign friend" to enter 
formal protest against Japan at The Hague Peace Confer- 
ence, at least for the time being made the humiliations suf- 
fered from his own subjects at home the easier to be borne* 



82 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

According to unfailing Korean custom, it was to be ex- 
pected that the ex-Ministers would become at once opponents 
of their successors in office and powerful factors in the in- 
trigues designed to destroy the influence of the latter with 
the Emperor. The success of the new Ministry, especially 
in the matter of those reforms which made Marquis Ito's 
administration so obnoxious to the ruling classes, was there- 
fore in peril from the Ministry that had resigned. But in- 
fluence of a private and suspicious character with His Ma- 
jesty had become, under the new regime, less important and 
less likely to be profitable; and the ex-Ministers were not 
only to be rendered innocuous, even if any of them might 
at any time be disposed to do harm, but were also them- 
selves to be committed by motives of personal interest to a 
more responsible, relatively reformed mode of administering 
national affairs. The new Korean Government decided to 
"create" the office of "Councillor in the Privy Council"; 
the ex-Ministers were themselves promptly appointed to this 
office. They were given comfortable salaries, and three of 
them including the one who had been publicly reported as 
having put on a coat-of-mail and secreted himself in his own 
house, through fear of assassination, at the time of his 
resignation were sent on a tour of inspection to Japan. 
Here they were received in audience by His Imperial Maj- 
esty the Emperor of Japan, and so well treated that they 
might reasonably be expected to return to their own country 
with a spirit of hearty co-operation in measures for reforming 
the condition of their own country after the Japanese model. 

Among the other events of the spring months of 1907 was 
one which, while in itself considered, was relatively unim- 
portant, was destined to become of no small political in- 
fluence upon the Japanese policy in Korea and upon the 
relation of the Emperor and the court circle to that policy. 
This was the sudden departure, after selling his effects at 



LIFE IN SEOUL 83 

auction, of Mr. Homer B. Hulbert. It does not belong to 
the story we have to tell, to speak of the previous history of 
this gentleman in Korea, or of his views. on historical sub- 
jects when involving the character of the Japanese, except so 
far as the statement of the facts and truths of history makes 
such reference mostly indirect indispensable. But on this 
particular occasion what transpired of Mr. Hulbert's trans- 
actions with the Emperor is so intimately connected with 
the political events of the period that some special mention 
of them cannot properly be omitted. 

Immediately on my return from Chemulpo, Wednesday, 
May 8th, I found the excitement of the day was over the 
following questions: "What was Mr. Hulbert's motive for 
leaving Seoul so suddenly ? Where is he going ? and What is 
his business?" Now the Korean Daily News, the violently 
anti- Japanese paper which was currently believed to receive 
the support of Mr. Hulbert, in the forms of friendship with 
its editor, writing some of its editorials, and interest in its 
receiving subsidies, had just published as a despatch from 
-Paris (dated May 3d) the following illuminating statements : 
"Korea will also participate in The Hague Peace Con- 
ference"; but then again: "It is reported that Japan will 
represent Korea at the Conference." The conjecture, 
therefore, was very promptly made by those in the diplomatic 
service in Seoul that the Emperor had again given another 
large sum of money to the same hands, with the same hope, 
as formerly, of procuring foreign assistance or even inter- 
vention. This was, however, hard to credit even by those 
most suspicious; for, from the Japanese point of view, such 
a transaction would have been on the recipient's part very 
like "obtaining money under false pretences," and on the 
giver's part, a breach of the compact with Japan which 
might seriously impair, or even endanger, the imperial in- 
terests. That such a commission was a breach of treaty- 



84 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

obligations will be made perfectly clear when we come to nar- 
rate the true history of the compact made in November, 1905. 
Inquiry resulted only in finding that Mr. Hulbert's real 
plans in going, and even his reasons for going at all, had not 
been confided to any of his most intimate friends. His 
Korean associates, outside of the very few higher officials 
that might be in the secret, held the absurd opinion that he 
had been bought off from his devotion to them by the Mar- 
quis Ito, to whose official residence he had resorted for a 
conference and an agreement as to terms. To the other 
foreigners he had assigned the condition of his family affairs 
as the reason for his removal. To one of his more intimate 
friends among the missionaries he had claimed that, having 
heard of a wealthy American who might be induced to give 
a large sum of money to found an educational institution in 
Korea, he was going to try to secure the gift. The only 
points of agreement were that the journey was to be made 
over the Siberian Railway, and that there was to be a con- 
siderable stop in St. Petersburg. In a quite unexpected but 
entirely authentic way it became known to me within a few 
hours that Mr. Hulbert had indeed gone from Seoul with a 
large gift of money from His Majesty and with an important 
commission to execute. Although the precise amount of the 
imperial gift continued for some time to be variously esti- 
mated and reported, and although its precise uses may never 
be inquired into not to say made public; that a Commis- 
sion appeared at The Hague, and its fate, are now matters 
of the world's political history. As such, it will be referred to 
elsewhere. 1 

1 It is now proper to say, since his own abdication and the Conven- 
tion of July, 1907, have followed, that the Korean Emperor after re- 
peated denials, confessed at the time to a faithful foreign friend (not a 
Japanese) that he had given to Mr. Hulbert a large sum of money to 
execute a certain commission the nature of which he kept secret. In 
spite of this friend's importunate urging and vivid representation of 



LIFE IN SEOUL 85 

It would be a great mistake, however, to suppose that 
Seoul had no other charms for us as visitors than the oppor- 
tunity for delivering lectures and for witnessing, from outside 
and inside points of view, the human puppets which suppose 
themselves to be defeating the plans of that Supreme Ethical 
Spirit who shapes the destiny of nations, in partnership with 
those who partake of the spirit with which He inspires the 
"men of good-will." The Court intrigues, and even the 
assassination of the Ministry, had little disturbing effect upon 
foreign business or foreign social life in the capital of Korea. 
With the former it made no difference of practical importance 
beyond the temporary check, perhaps, to some promoting 
scheme which depended upon the personality of the Court 
favorites for its Imperial support. There was no particular 
reason why society should heed such familiar occurrences. 
The weather was fine; the luxuriant bloom of the Korean 
spring and the vivid and changeful coloring of the mountains 
surrounding Seoul, invited to out-of-doors entertainments; 
and no foreigner's life was then in any danger. For, as to 
the last feature favoring open-air sociability, the foreign 
visitor or resident need have little fear within the city walls, 
so long as the mob is not aroused and in control. Aside 
from one or two articles in the Seoul Press, and the grave 
rebukes of the Resident-General, I neither heard, nor heard 
of, any voice raised against the immorality and crime of 
political intrigue and political assassination. There was at 
the time no Savonarola or Martin Luther in Korea. But, 
then, in what part of America, or country of Europe,, is such 
a prophet now to be found? In Korea, as elsewhere, pol- 

what the consequences of the act might be to himself and to his family, 
His Majesty refused to telegraph a recall of the commission. He did, 
however, so far yield to the same pleading as to agree not to furnish a 
further sum of money which had been asked in behalf of the influence 
of another "foreign friend," the editor of the most violently anti-Japan- 
ese newspaper. 



86 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

itics and morals seemed only remotely related, even in the 
minds of the teachers of religion. 

The foreign society of Seoul, including, of course, the 
Japanese, is small, but homogeneous and agreeable. It is, 
indeed, composed of several nationalities and of varied occu- 
pations from that of the shrewd and hardened diplomat 
to the unsuspecting but devout missionary. But whatever 
differences of views and habits, or more important oppositions, 
lie hidden beneath, when the gathering is social, there is a 
cordial interchange of courtesies and an appearance of good- 
will. There can 'be no doubt that much of this socially- 
uniting influence has its source in the will of the Japanese 
Resident- General; and just as little doubt that the Japanese 
Imperial treasury is somewhat heavily drawn upon for the 
expenses. But it is worth for Korea all that it costs and 
more. Especially true is this, when we consider the effect 
which is had in this way upon the Korean upper classes 
themselves. Indeed, it is foreign social amenities and de- 
cencies, under the brave and efficient leadership of the lady 
in whose house we stayed, that have made the Korean court 
functions half-way tolerable, and that to this hour prevent 
the housekeeping of the Palace from relapsing into an intoler- 
able condition of filth and disorder. But what the social 
functions that are now -encouraged by the Resident-General 
are in a measure doing is chiefly valuable by way of bringing 
the Korean upper classes into apparently and as, I believe, 
the event will prove, genuinely friendly relations with the 
Japanese. This effect has already showed itself to a con- 
siderable extent in the case of the Korean gentlemen. Not 
only those who have been abroad, and those who are now 
going abroad (for the most part, to Japan), but even the 
others are coming to appreciate the value of more cleanly 
and elegant ways of enjoying one's self socially than were 
conceivable by their ancestors. Gluttony, drunkenness, 



LIFE IN SEOUL 87 

filthy habits and surroundings, seem less natural and at- 
tractive by comparison with a few degrees of higher social 
refinement. The hardest crust to break will doubtless be 
that which encompasses and crushes the Korean lady. In 
Japan there has never been anything quite comparable to the 
still present degrading influences bearing upon the woman- 
hood of the upper classes in Korea. But while we were in 
Seoul, for the first time so far as known in its history, a 
Korean lady walked upon the streets, and after making 
several calls in this fashion, rode home in the electric car! 
Her companion was a Japanese lady, and the two were selling 
tickets to a public entertainment given in behalf of a benevo- 
lent enterprise. Being present ourselves at this same en- 
tertainment, we saw to our surprise quite one hundred Korean 
women, dressed in their native costume, enter the theatre, 
and seat themselves among the Japanese of their own sex. 
If this thing goes on, racial hatred is doomed. For soon it is 
to be hoped, or feared, according to one's point of view, that 
Korean ladies will attend garden parties and, perhaps, 
finally, frequent afternoon teas and evening receptions, at 
which foreigners of both sexes are present. And this, I am 
sure, is a sight never as yet beheld by mortal eyes; at least 
my eyes saw no sign of its beginning as yet in the now half- 
opened "Hermit Kingdom." 

A few days after our arrival our host gave us an afternoon 
reception at the Residency House. It was a beautiful day; 
and the grounds, which had been decorated as it is difficult 
for other than the Japanese professionals to do, were beau- 
tiful as was the day. The first two hours were spent upon 
the hill above the Residence, from which there are fine and 
extensive views of Seoul and its environing mountains. 
There, in the several well-situated booths and tea-houses, 
light refreshments were served. There, too, we were intro- 
duced to the whole of Seoul "society," some of whom we 



88 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

were glad to call our "friends," when we parted from them 
nearly two months later. The Japanese officials, the foreign 
Consuls, with their wives and daughters, the Korean officials 
without their families, the Roman Catholic Archbishop and 
the Protestant missionaries, and a few of the leading business 
people, made up that sort of a gathering which is most 
thoroughly human and most interesting. A collation, with 
chatting and hand-shaking, in the Marquis' apartments 
closed a delightful afternoon. 

Of the various garden parties, luncheons, dinners, and 
receptions, which followed and not only enlivened the other- 
wise somewhat dull life of lecturing, reading, consulting, and 
observing, it is not necessary to speak in detail. The visit 
of Prince Tokugawa and his party to Seoul, which was 
extended for some ten days, was very properly made the occa- 
sion of a series of festivities, at most of which they were the 
guests of honor;, but at the last of which a reception given 
in Miss Sontag's house Prince Tokugawa was himself the 
host. The unaffected friendly bearing of these Japanese 
gentlemen toward the Koreans, with whom they were thus 
brought in contact, helped to soften the anti- Japanese feeling; 
and since on one, at least, of these occasions, the reception given 
by Mr. Megata, not only the foreign diplomats but also a 
number of the foreign missionaries were invited, it gave to 
the latter a somewhat unaccustomed opportunity to observe 
at close hand the enlightening fact that Japan, like all other 
so-called civilized nations, does not have its true character 
best represented by its coolies, low-lived adventurers, camp- 
followers, and land-grabbing pioneers. 

I close this brief description of our varied experiences in 
Seoul with a warning against a very common but, in my judg- 
ment, quite fallacious view of the relation in which the capital 
city stands to the entire country of Korea. It is customary 
to say that " Seoul- w Korea" just as " Paris is France." But 



LIFE IN SEOUL 89 

this is even less true in the macrocosm of Seoul than in the 
macrocosm of Paris. It is indeed true, as Dr. Jones has said, 
that "as the capital of the Empire its political pre-eminence 
is undisputed. Intellectually and socially it has ruled Korea 
with an iron hand for half a millennium." But it is also true 
that the real interests and undeveloped material and human 
resources of the nation are in the country; and that the 
uneconomical, ignorant, and depressed condition of the people 
outside of Seoul is the chief concern of all who really care for 
the welfare of Korea. The local magistrates must be re- 
formed, or the well-nigh hopeless task of reforming the 
corrupt Court at Seoul would be, if it could be accomplished, 
of little value to the nation. And if it becomes necessary, in 
order to effect this reform, and so to bring about the redemp- 
tion, industrially, educationally, morally and religiously, of 
the people of the country, then the "iron hand" which rules 
them from Seoul must be either gloved or broken in pieces. 
But, in truth, the idol at Seoul which the Koreans worship is 
an image of clay. 



CHAPTER V 

A VISIT TO PYENG-YANG 

FROM the historical, as well as the geographical and com- 
mercial points of view, the city of Pyeng-yang (spelled also 
Pyong-yang and in various other ways) is the most important 
place in all Northern Korea. It has frequently been be- 
sieged and assaulted, both by Japanese invaders from the 
south and by various forces Mongolian, Chinese, Manchu 
coming down from the north to pour their devastating hordes 
over the country. It was hither that the Korean king fled } 
before the armies of "men in fierce-looking helmets and 
bright armor with little pennons at their backs bearing their 
names and family badges," which were sent against him by 
Hideyoshi more than three hundred years ago. The city 
is beautifully situated; it is by nature constituted for all time 
as a principal centre for distributing over the Yellow Sea the 
industrial products of fertile North Korea and for receiving 
in return whatever the adjoining parts of China and Manchu- 
ria may furnish for coastwise trade. 

Previous to the China- Japan war there were probably not 
more than a half-score of Japanese within the walled city of 
Pyeng-yang. But some two years after the end of this war 
the Japanese colony had grown to several hundred souls. 
During and after the war with Russia, however, the increase 
of this colony was so rapid that it could find no room within 
the walls of the city. It therefore burst through, as it 

were, the barrier of these walls and built a new city for 

90 



A VISIT TO PYENG-YANG 91 

itself outside the South Gate, which, like all similar en- 
terprises in Korea, by its neat dwellings and shops, its 
clean and broad streets, and its general air of prosperity, 
contrasts with, and forms an object lesson to, the Korean 
city within the walls. 

The original inhabitants of the Japanese city were by no 
means altogether of the class most creditable to Japan, or 
comfortable as neighbors for the Korean population. There 
were many adventurers, hangers-on and panderers to the 
army, who did not stop at either fraud or violence in their 
treatment of the native population of Pyeng-yang. And 
while the Japanese army during the war behaved with most 
admirable moderation and discipline here, as elsewhere in 
Korea and Manchuria, at its close even the military authorities 
were not as scrupulous as they should have been by way of 
appropriating land and other necessaries for their permanent 
occupation. The wrongs which were then committed are, 
however, as far as possible in such cases, now being measure- 
ably remedied or compensated for; and in spite of the fact 
that the withdrawal of the divisional headquarters of the 
Japanese army has affected somewhat seriously the retail 
trade, and there still continues to be more or less of disturbing 
friction between dealers of the two nationalities, and a crop 
of disputes over land-claims that need settlement, there is 
now a prosperous Japanese city, with some 5,000 inhabitants. 
The Korean city is also growing in numbers and prosperity. 
As the two nationalities come to know and understand each 
other better, that will inevitably, but happily, take place here 
which has already taken place at Chemulpo. They will 
learn the better to respect each other, and each other's rights; 
and to live together in freedom from outbreaking strife and 
sullen bitterness, if not in perfect harmony. It was a good 
indication of this possibility to learn that the Japanese 
Resident in Pyeng-yang already has coming to his court for 



92 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

adjustment more cases of Koreans against Koreans than of 
Koreans against his own countrymen. 

The invitation to visit this interesting and important city 
was most prompt and cordial. It came within a few days 
of our arrival in Seoul. In spite, therefore, of the fact that 
I was suffering from a somewhat severe attack of influenza, 
brought on in the quite ordinary way of breathing in the dust 
of the streets of the capital city, we started for Pyeng-yang, 
accompanied by Mr. Zumoto, by the early morning train of 
April 5th. To make the journey more surely comfortable, 
and to emphasize the relation of the travellers to the Resident- 
General, the party was escorted about half-way by one rail- 
road official, who, having committed us to another that had 
come on from Pyeng-yang for the purpose, himself returned 
to his duties at Seoul. 

The night before had been rainy a somewhat unusual 
thing in such abundance at this time of year; but by noon 
the sky and air had cleared, and the strong sunlight brought 
out the colors of the landscape in a way characteristic of the 
usual climate of Korea in the early Spring. The railway 
from Seoul to Wiju is being very largely built over again; 
so that part of the time our train was running over the perma- 
nent way and part of the time over the military road which 
was quite too hastily constructed to be left after the war in 
a satisfactory state. This process of reconstruction consists 
in straightening curves, adjusting grades, erecting stone 
sustaining-walls and heavy, steel bridges; as well as in mak- 
ing the old bed, where it is followed, more solid and better 
ballasted. The part of Korea through which we were 
now passing was obviously more fertile and better cultivated 
than the part lying between Fusan and Seoul. There were 
even some portions of the main highway which resembled a 
passable jinrikisha road in Japan, instead of the wretched 
and well-nigh impassable footpaths which are often the only 



A VISIT TO PYENG-YANG 



93 



thoroughfares further south. In places, also, the peasants 
seemed to have overcome their fears, both of the laws punish- 
ing sacrilege and also of the avenging spirits of the dead; 
for the burial mounds had been replaced by terraces which 
enabled the fields to be cultivated nearly or quite to the tops 
of the hills. 

On our arrival at the station in Pyeng-yang two of the 
missionaries met us with a friendly greeting. Before taking 
our jinrikishas for the house of Dr. Noble, who was to be our 
host, I walked for a short distance over the gravelled plain 
surrounding the station to where some 100 or 120 school-boys 
were drawn up in military line to give the foreign teacher a 
welcome. This promptly took his mind and heart back to 
Japan as well as carried it forward to the future generation of 
Korean men. On one side, dressed in kakhi and looking 
very important, stood the larger number, who were members 
of the Christian school, connected with the Methodist mission. 
But right opposite in Korean costume of plum-colored cloth 
were arrayed some thirty or forty pupils of a neighboring 
Confucian school. It was a matter of interest and significance 
to learn that just recently the latter, on receiving overtures of 
friendly alliance, had agreed to a meeting for the discussion of 
terms; and when the proposal had been made that the 
"heathen school" should become Christian, it had been 
promptly accepted ! This was, of course, a way of achieving 
unity entirely satisfactory to the missionaries. At the time 
of our visit the wife of the head-master of the Confucian 
school and the wife .of one of the teachers had become earnest 
and active Bible-women. 

While we were being conveyed in jinrikishaSj to the foot 
of the hill on which stands the house of our host, and as well 
the church and other buildings belonging to the mission, the 
Doctor himself was getting home in a different way. This 
was by means of a tram, the rude car of which seated six 



94 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

persons, three on each side, facing outward and back to back, 
but with Korean coolies for their motive power thus reviving, 
of course, in new form the time-worn joke about the Far 
East's "Pullman car." As to the position and significance 
of the group of buildings, in one of which we were to be 
entertained for nearly a week, I avail myself of the description 
in the Seoul Press, published subsequently by its editor who 
was the Japanese friend and companion of this trip. "As 
his railway train approaches the city, the first objects that 
catch his eyes are a cluster of buildings, some in foreign style, 
others in half foreign and half Korean style, which crown the 
hill-tops and constitute the most conspicuous feature of the 
magnificent landscape that developes itself before his eyes. 
His wonder increases still more, as the visitor inquires into 
the result of the great missionary activity of which these 
buildings are outward manifestations. How great the success 
has been may be imagined, when it is computed by a very 
competent authority that fully one-third of the entire Korean 
population of the city (roughly estimated at between 40,000 
and 50,000) are professing Christians. There are Koreans 
and Japanese, apparently in a position to know, who put the 
proportion of the Christian section of the population at much 
higher figures; they confidently say that quite one-half of 
the whole population belongs to the new faith. . . . The 
success which the work of Christian propagandism has at- 
tained in Pyeng-yang is all the more marvellous when it is 
remembered that the work was commenced scarcely more than 
fifteen years ago. The success of the work has not been 
confined to the city. alone; it is noticeable, though not quite 
in like degree, in the adjacent districts and all over North 
Korea which looks up to Pyeng-yang as the fountain and 
centre of the new religious life." 

On the following day, which was Saturday, I had my first 
experience with one of the larger Korean audiences. The, 



A VISIT TO PYENG-YANG 95 

numbers in Seoul had been, at most, some 500 or 600. 
But here, although the address was in the afternoon, no 
fewer than 1,700, all, with the exception of a few foreign 
ladies, of the male sex, assembled in the Methodist meeting- 
house which was just across a narrow lane from the gate of 
Dr. Noble's residence. The peculiarities of such an audi- 
ence are worthy of a brief description. All were seated on 
the floor. Close around the platform, on which were a few 
of the missionaries and of the Japanese officials, were grouped 
several hundred school-boys, packed as thickly as herrings 
in a box. These were dressed in garments of many and 
bright colors. Back of them and reaching to the doors, 
massed solidly with no aisles or empty spaces left between, 
were Korean men, in their picturesque monotone of white 
clothing and black crinoline hats. The audiences at Pyeng- 
yang, as at Seoul, were much more restless and seemingly 
volatile than those of the same size which I had addressed in 
Japan ; although it should be remembered that the latter were 
chiefly composed of teachers, officials, and men prominent 
in business and in the professions, whereas this audience, 
although largely Christian, was of the lowly and compara- 
tively ignorant. A distinctly religious character was- given 
to all the meetings in Pyeng-yang by prayer and by the sing- 
ing of Christian hymns. The tunes were familiar; and al- 
though the language wa? far removed in^structure and 
vocabulary, the attempt had evidently been made, with only 
a partial success, to reproduce in a rhythmic way the English 
words which had been set to them. The singing was led by 
a Korean chorister who used his baton in a vigorous and 
fairly effective, if not wholly intelligent, fashion. The cabinet 
organ was also played by a young Korean man. The mis- 
sionaries say that the people show great interest and even 
enthusiasm in learning foreign music; and that they are apt 
pupils so far as the singing of hymns is concerned. The 



96 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

favorite native music is a dismal wailing upon pipes and 
rude flute-like instruments, accompanied by the tom-tom of 
drums. The address on this occasion was upon the relation 
of education to the social welfare; it was interpreted by Dr. 
Noble with obvious clearness and vigor. 

The audience next morning (Sunday, April 7th) was not 
so large, but was scarcely less interesting. It comprised both 
sexes, separated, however, by a tight screen which ran from 
the platform through the middle of the church to the oppo- 
site wall. The numbers present were some 1,400, about 
equally divided between the two sexes. The girls on the one 
side, and the boys on the other, in their gaily colored clothing, 
were massed about the platform; and back of them the 
women and the men both in white, but the former topped 
out with white turbans and the latter with their black hats. 
The entire audience marked out upon the floor an impressive 
color-scheme. It was said that there were enough of the 
population of the city attending Christian services at that 
same hour to make three congregations of the same size. 
The afternoon gathering for Bible study and the evening 
services were even more crowded; so that the aggregate 
number of church-goers that Sunday in this Korean city of 
somewhat more than 40,000 could not have been less than 
13,000 or 14,000 souls. Considering also the fact that each 
service was stretched out to the minimum length of two 
hours, there was probably no place in the United States tha.t 
could compete with Pyeng-yang for its percentage of church- 
goers on that day. Yet ten years ago there was in all the 
region scarcely the beginning of a Christian congregation. 

In the afternoon I spoke to about thirty of the mission- 
aries, telling them, in informal address, of certain economic, 
social, and religious changes in the United States, which 
seemed to me destined profoundly to affect the nature of 
Christian missions in so-called " heathen lands." Nor did 



A VISIT TO PYENG-YANG 97 

it seem incongruous when prayer was offered that the "home 
land" might receive in its present great need some of the 
blessings which were being experienced in heathen Korea. 
For I had long been of the opinion that if the word "heathen" 
is to be used with that tinge of moral and intellectual oppro- 
bium which usually attaches to it, all so-called Christian 
countries are in some important respects very considerably 
entitled to the term. And, indeed, who that understands the 
true spirit of the religion of Christ shall hesitate to confess 
that America and American churches as sorely need deliver- 
ance from the demons of cowardice, avarice, and pride, as do 
the Koreans from the superstitious fear of devils or of the 
spirits of their own ancestors? 

The audience of Monday morning numbered 800; it 
seemed, however, from the point of view which regards social 
and political standing, to be of decidedly superior quality. 
This was probably due, in part at least, to the nature of 
the theme, which was "Education and the Stability and 
Progress of the Nation." The attention, too, appeared to 
be more thoughtful and unwavering at this meeting. 

The public speaking at Pyeng-yang was concluded by an 
address, especially designed for the Japanese official classes 
and prominent business men, and given in the hall of the 
Japanese Club on the afternoon of the day before leaving 
the city. There were present about one hundred and fifty 
of this class of hearers. To them I spoke very plainly, 
praising their preparation for, and conduct of, the war with 
Russia; then warning them of the difficulties and dangers in 
business and politics which the rivalries of peace would com- 
pel the nation to face; and, finally, exhorting them to main- 
tain the honor of Japan in Korea, before the civilized world, 
by treating the Koreans in an honorable way. Although, 
according to the testimony of the Japanese friend who inter- 
preted this address, there were uneasy consciences in the 



98 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

audience, the warning and the rebuke, as well as the praise, 
were received with equal appreciation and gratitude. I take 
this opportunity to testify that, instead of deserving the repu- 
tation often given to the Japanese, of being abnormally and 
even ridiculously sensitive to criticism, I have found them, 
on the contrary, remarkably willing to be told of their failures 
and faults, and ready to receive, at least with the appearance 
of respect and kindness, suggestions for their correction and 
amendment. 

My engagements in Pyeng-yang came so near to the limit 
of exhausting my time and strength that I was unable to see 
as much as would have been otherwise desirable of the 
externals, and of the antiquities, of the neighborhood. From 
the piazza in front of our host's house nearly the whole of the 
Korean city lies literally spread out, as all the cities of the 
country are, beneath the jeye of the observer from a sur- 
rounding hill. The streets within the walls are, with one 
or two exceptions, narrow, winding, and made disgusting by 
foul sights and smells. Here there has been little or none 
of that widening of thoroughfares and superficial cleaning 
which has given a partial relief, both to the aspect and to 
the reality of Seoul. But, as has already been said, the 
natural situation is beautiful. Under the advice of Japan, a 
part of the now useless city wall went to make a fine bund; 
while the space left by the clearing was converted into a 
street. On passing through an indescribably foul, narrow 
lane, which makes a disgraceful break between the broad, 
clean thoroughfare of the Japanese settlement and the 
fairly broad but dirty street of the Korean city, we were 
told the following story of the recent attempt of the Resi- 
dent to get this passage widened. The story is so charac- 
teristic of relations between the two peoples that I turn aside 
to tell it. 

Feeling the great and obvious importance of having this 



A VISIT TO PYENG-YANG 99 

public improvement made, the Resident called a meeting of 
the adjoining property-owners to discuss the terms which 
would be satisfactory to them. The Japanese owners agreed 
to contribute the land necessary for the purpose and to move 
back the buildings at their own expense; the Korean owners 
agreed to cede the land if the expense of moving the buildings 
was borne by the Government. The Resident went for a 
few weeks to Japan, expecting that the agreement would 
stand, and that by his return the improvement would be 
well begun. Immediately after his departure, however, two 
Korean Christians, who had remained away from the meeting 
for discussing terms, induced the other Koreans to break 
their compact and refuse to surrender the land for less than 
200 yen per tsubo (6x6 ft.) an absurdly extravagant price. 
The attempt at doing this much-needed work came, there- 
fore, to a complete standstill. The whole transaction was 
reported by the Korean Daily News of Seoul with its cus- 
tomary felicitous (?) misrepresentation, as follows: "People 
in Pyeng-yang are greatly stirred up over the demand of the 
Japanese that the Korean houses on each side of the road 
outside the South Gate be torn down to widen the road. The 
people gathered at the office of the prefect arid protested 
against such seizure without proper compensation, and they 
said they would die sooner than give in to such an imposi- 
tion." I can assure the reader that much of the fraud and 
oppression charged against the Japanese by the Koreans 
and by their so-called "foreign friends" (even including 
some of the missionaries) is of the same order. [A letter 
from Pyeng-yang to the Seoul Press, published not long after 
our return, announced that the "widening of the approach 
between the Japanese city and the old town, of Pyeng-yang 
is now under way, and soon a fine wide road will lead from 
the railway station to the Gate" all of which means that 
when the Korean property-owners found their attempts at 



ioo IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

lying and swindling were not going to succeed, they saw the 
advantage of renewing the original contract.] 

A row up the river in his boat, kindly furnished by Mr. 
Kikuchi, the Japanese Resident, afforded several pleasant 
hours of recreation as well as an opportunity to see for our- 
selves something more of the present condition and future 
prospects of the chief city of Northern Korea. The city 
gate through which we reached the river is the finest thing 
about its ancient fortifications. The views of the bank, which 
rises in most places bluff and high above the water, are very 
picturesque and crowded with scenes of both immediate and 
historical interest. Scores, of junks and sampans, .loaded 
with many kinds of goods for the most part, however, of no 
great value are either moored to the narrow beach below 
the bank or are slowly finding their way up and down the 
river. At different heights of the banks, standing on pro- 
jecting ledges or on platforms, men were cutting inscriptions 
upon the rocky sides in Chinese characters. These were 
designed to celebrate for future generations the virtues and 
successes of living merchants and magistrates; but these 
workmen of to-day were only adding a few more to the much 
more numerous inscriptions commemorating the otherwise 
forgotten and, for the most part undoubtedly, really ignoble" 
dead. By the brink of the river were the Korean women at 
their never-ceasing task of washing and pounding dry the 
white clothing of their male lords. At one bend in the river, 
where the projecting cliff acts as an effective breakwater 
against the winter ice and the summer freshets, the top is 
crowned by a pavilion which occupies the place where nego- 
tiations went on between the Chinese and the Japanese at the 
time of the Hideyoshi invasion. 

The boat landed us at the foot of the celebrated " Peony 
Hill," part way up which is situated the decayed pavilion in 
which royalty used to be fed and given to drink on the occa- 



A VISIT TO PYENG-YAko 101 

sion of excursions from the city to this sightly place. From 
this point the views bring the past history and the present 
prospects of Pyeng-yang together in an interesting way. 
For, looking to the right, one sees an ancient pagoda and the 
remains of a Buddhist temple. Looking forward and down- 
ward, the eye is well pleased by taking in at once the pleasant 
prospect of water and rock and fields which the ascent has 
given only bit by bit, as it were. Looking upward one sees 
the difficult heights which the Japanese troops stormed so 
unexpectedly but successfully in the invasion of more than 
three centuries ago; and also in the war with China, when 
they turned the guns of the Chinese forces from their own 
fortifications upon themselves and slaughtered the unfor- 
tunate until the streets of the city were choked with corpses. 
But to the left, and lying just below, is the green island on 
which the pumping-works to supply the foul city with cleans- 
ing streams are soon to be erected. Beyond the island across 
the river are the pastures, where the breeding of improved 
horses is to be carried on by a partnership of both govern- 
ments; and still further beyond are the coal fields which the 
Residency- General is trying to preserve for the Crown against 
the efforts of both native and foreign promoters, to exploit 
them to their own rather than to the nation's advantage. 
But the story of these and similar efforts will be told in other 
places of our narrative; and for the moment we will forget 
the interests of history and of present adventures, and will 
just thoughtlessly submit ourselves to the pleasure of being 
rowed down the beautiful river to the dirty and seditious city. 
For it is a story of a nearly successful attempt at a seditious 
outbreak which would have had a most unfortunate and 
surely unsuccessful ending, that must now engage the atten- 
tion. This story also, illustrates the Korean character, the 
Korean situation, and the relations of the two peoples, in no 
doubtful way. 



r io2 ' IN*i:6kA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

The evening before, on Tuesday, April gih, a committee 
of students from the missionary theological school had 
requested an interview with me on the following day; and 
the morning hour of eight o'clock had been appointed. At 
the time set they arrived three in number and the inter- 
view was held in Dr. Noble's study or " work-shop." My 
visitors began, Korean fashion, far off from their final goal, 
and meandered around it rather than toward it, like poachers 
feeling their way in the dark. An awkward pause was finally 
broken by my exhorting them to speak plainly and freely ; 
at which they replied that their country's condition was much 
misunderstood and that it was hoped that I would under- 
stand and sympathize with them. Of my desire to do this 
I at once assured them; but when the request seemed to be 
taking a more political turn, I replied that my interests, 
influence, and work, were all directed along the lines of 
morals, education, and religion. As a teacher, it was only 
as my teaching could get a hearing and have an influence 
on life, that my stay in Korea could benefit the Koreans 
themselves. At the same time, I could assure them of my 
confidence in Marquis Ito's intention to administer his office 
in the interests of their countrymen. 

During all this conversation there was the appearance, in 
general characteristic of all similar interviews between natives 
and foreigners, of a mixture of suspicion and duplicity which 
is well calculated to betray the unwary into serious mistakes. 
Certainly, the real motive for their coming was being kept 
back; the suppressed undercurrent of feeling that could be 
detected was such as by no means to encourage the confidence 
that the feeling of race-hatred had been thoroughly purged 
away from these theological students by the meeting for 
prayer and confession of the night before. But just as I was 
obliged to excuse myself in order to keep another engagement 
the true cause of their request for an interview suddenly 



A VISIT TO PYENG-YANG 103 

sprang into the light. All the night before, they said, the 
Korean city of Pyeng-yang had been in a state of the most 
intense excitement over the report from Seoul that their 
Emperor was going to be deposed by the Japanese! There 
was just then only time for me to learn from my Japanese 
companion that he had not the slightest suspicion of how the 
report, even, could have originated, and to send word to this 
committee of interviewers that neither he nor I gave the 
slightest credence to so absurd a rumor. 

But this matter did not end with a single interview con- 
ducted by the deputation of Christian students. Word had 
previously been sent that the Korean governor of Pyeng-yang 
desired to call upon me, and the promise had been made that 
he should be received in appropriate manner at noon of the 
same day. Soon after our return from the trip up the river, 
His Excellency appeared, accompanied by his secretary and 
by one of the committee of the morning who acted also as 
spokesman of this second deputation. For such it really was, 
rather than a merely friendly call from the chief native 
magistrate of the city. The Governor seemed exceedingly 
ill at ease; there was in even greater degree than had been 
the case with my visitors of the early morning, an appearance 
of mingled suspicion and suppressed excitement, of fear and 
of hatred. In this case, however, the real matter of concern- 
ment did not come at all to the fore. The conversation ended 
when there had been repeated declarations of my visitor's 
interest in the improvement of education among his own 
countrymen, to which I had replied that I believed this to be 
the important work which should occupy all Korean patriots 
and all the wise and true foreign friends of Korea. 

It afterward came to my knowledge that the Governor, 
although not himself a Christian, on leaving the house, went 
with his secretary and the theological student into the ad- 
joining church of the Methodist mission, and there fell upon 



io 4 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

his face and began to beat his forehead on the floor and 
bewail the threatening situation for himself as the responsible 
magistrate, and the sad fate awaiting his country at the hands 
of the Japanese. The thought of the enormous interval 
between this conduct and that of any Japanese official, 
similarly situated, remains with me to reveal in vivid colors 
the difference of the two peoples. But all this was only in 
the small, essentially the same thing which has been going on 
in the large, throughout the centuries of Korean history. 

On my return from the address to the Japanese I was 
almost immediately visited by a third deputation which con- 
sisted of the same theological student who had called twice 
before on this same day, and of two others whom I did not 
recognize. This time also the conversation began in similar 
roundabout fashion; indeed, this time the point of starting 
was even more remote in character from the real end which 
it was intended to reach. There was a preliminary recital 
of their country's weakness, poverty, and need of foreign 
assistance; this was accompanied by the suggestion that 
possibly I might have some rich friend willing to contribute 
liberally to their mission school, or to the much needed en- 
largement of the church edifice. Again, the visitors were 
assured of my deep interest in the welfare of Korea and of my 
sincere desire to do what lay within my power to promote 
this welfare. It must be remembered, however, that I my- 
self belonged to the class of teachers who, even in rich 
America, have little wealth at their disposal. To the best 
of my knowledge, I had not a single friend among the Amer- 
ican millionaires. Should it ever be possible, however, 
nothing would be more to my mind than to direct some of 
the overflow of my country's wealth into the channels of 
educational and religious work in needy Korea. I was sin- 
cerely impressed with the need and with the opportunity. 

Now, plainly, all this was not at all to the point of the 



A VISIT TO PYENG-YANG 105 

interest weighing upon the minds of my auditors. Suddenly, 
and in a startling manner, the real cause of the three formal 
visits from as many different deputations, made itself known. 
With lips white and trembling, the same theological student 
who had been present at each visit, drew from his sleeve an 
envelope, and from the envelope a document printed in mixed 
Chinese and Korean, the purport of which he began to ex- 
plain to my interpreter in a highly excited and rhetorical way. 
This document purported to be an elaborate statement of 
no fewer than forty-eight reasons why Japan should annex 
Korea and reduce its Emperor to the grade of a peer of 
Japan. "Where did this remarkable pronunciamento come 
from?" was, of course, my first inquiry. Why, from Seoul, 
from the Court; but it was originally a production of the 
Japanese Government which, fortunately, had been discov- 
ered in time and which was now officially sent out in order 
to .warn all Korean patriots against this outrageous plot 
concocted by the Japanese! 

The situation was obviously serious, if not threatening. 
On inquiry it was soon disclosed that for two days and nights 
the entire native city of Pyeng-yang had been in such a state 
of excitement as is not easily made credible to citizens of a 
country accustomed to the exercise of sound political sense 
and self-control. No business had been done, no buying or 
selling, on the last market day. All night long the men and 
women of the city had been sleepless and engaged in wailing 
and beating the ground and the floor of their houses with their 
heads. Not a few of the worst classes including, I fear, 
some professing Christians had been working themselves 
and others up to threats of violence and of murder. 

The silliness of mind, the almost hopeless and incurable 
credulity and absence of sound judgment which characterizes, 
with exceedingly few exceptions, the political views and 
actions of even the official and educated classes in Korea, was 



106 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS 1TO 

the impression made upon me by this, as by all my experiences 
during my stay in the land. I assured these visitors, however, 
that there could be no doubt about this document being a 
forgery as, indeed, it turned out to be. Marquis Ito and 
the Japanese Government had no such immediate intention; 
and, indeed, if the Resident- General entertained the thought, 
he surely was not foolish enough to proceed in any such way. 
Such childish behavior on their own part, I added, was very 
discouraging to their friends. What could be done by others 
for a country where the men who should be leaders behaved 
habitually in a so unmanly way ? Let them quiet themselves, 
tell their Governor what I had said, and bid him use all 
his authority to quiet their fellow-citizens. This advice was 
complied with, as the event showed; the Korean governor 
was reassured and promised to unite his influence with that 
of the Christian forces to secure a return of the populace to 
their normal quiet. It was gratifying afterwards to have 
this official's expression of gratitude for what was then done 
to assist in the peace-promoting administration of his office. 
Dr. Noble, at once upon the departure of this committee, 
gave orders that the church bell should be rung to assemble 
the Christian community; and in such manner as to indicate 
to them that they were called together to hear "good news." 
An hour later, when we were going down the hill to dine with 
the Japanese Resident, the people had not yet assembled; but 
on our return in the evening they were departing to their 
homes, quieted by two hours of opportunity to express their 
excited feeling in the Korean fashion of wailing, sobbing, and 
beating their foreheads upon the mats assisted by the com- 
forting and reassuring words of those to whom they looked 
as having knowledge and authority. It afterward transpired 1 

1 This document probably emanated from the same press in Seoul 
conducted by a subject of Japan's friendly ally, Great Britain from 
which came the lying bulletin that afterward caused so much bloodshed 



A VISIT TO PYENG-YANG 107 

that a young Korean, one An Chung-ho, who had become 
by foreign residence injected, rather than instructed, with 
certain so-called "modern ideas," had busied himself, as the 
agent of the seditious intriguers at Seoul, in distributing this 
forged document and in haranguing the people with a view 
to excite a popular uprising against the Japanese. It is 
needless to say that the document itself was not printed in 
Japan. But the next morning's sunlight saw the mist and 
the threatening storm-cloud cleared away. 

It was during this visit to Pyeng-yang that I saw something 
of the remarkable features of the religious movement which 
was most intense there, but which spread, during the winter 
of 1 906-^07, widely over Korea. The "revival" began and, 
indeed, as regards its principal immediate results, it consisted 
largely in the irresistible tendency to confession, contrition, 
and prayer for forgiveness, among Christians themselves. 
The confessions, while in general they embraced such familiar 
topics as pride, envy, unfaithfulness, and coldness in the 
Christian life, very naturally soon revealed the characteristic 
vices and weaknesses of the Korean character. Taken at 
their own estimate, and making all reasonable allowances for 
the exaggerations of temporary excitement, they made obvious 
the fact that lying, stealing, cheating, and impurity, had been 
nearly universal in the hitherto existing Christian communities 
of Korea. In many cases these "spiritual exercises" were 
accompanied by the most violent physical demonstrations, 
such as sobbing, wailing, beating the forehead on the floor, 
and even falling down unconscious and frothing at the mouth. 

A more graphic picture of these religious meetings can per- 
haps be obtained by a brief description of one which I at- 

on the morning of Friday, July i9th. It is a comfort to know that this 
same editor has since been indicted by his own Government for the 
crime of stirring up sedition, condemned to give bonds, and threatened 
with deportation if his offences are repeated. 



io8 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

tended, where, however, the demonstrations were all of a 
relatively mild order. This was the evening gathering of the 
theological students on a day during the whole of which they 
had been holding a series of similar gatherings. As we 
arrived in front of the building in which the meeting was held, 
there pierced the silent night air a voice of wailing rather than 
of articulate speaking, in a high-pitched key and with extreme 
rapidity of utterance. On entering, some sixty Korean men 
appeared, seated on the floor with their heads bowed in their 
hands; three or four missionaries were occupying a bench 
which ran across one end of the room. At the other end stood 
one of the students swaying back and forth; it was his con- 
fession of sin that we had heard while still outside. Precisely 
what the confession was, there was no opportunity to learn; 
for after speaking a few sentences more, with ever increasing 
rapidity and shrillness of tone, the speaker fell to the floor 
sobbing and moaning convulsively and began beating the 
mats with fists and with forehead. One of the missionaries 
stepped carefully between the stooping bodies of his com- 
rades, found his way to the prostrate sinner, and by words 
and gentle blows upon the back attempted to revive and 
comfort him. 

Then followed a series of similar confessions, interspersed 
with prayers for forgiveness, none of which, however, at- 
tained the same degree of vehemence and physical excess. 
The substance of sins confessed by these Korean students of 
divinity was most illuminating. The next penitent wished 
it to be known that he had broken all the commandments; 
although it appeared that this far limit had been reached 
before his profession of Christianity, and that he had been 
guilty of murder rather in the spirit than in fact. Various 
following narratives of experience, made with varying de- 
grees of emotional excitement, included forms of wrong- 
doing common to most church members in all countries, 



A VISIT TO PYENG-YANG . 109 

such as pride, envy, deceit, infidelity, and impurity of thought, 
if not of life. But the climax was fairly reached when one 
man of early middle-age arose, and in a markedly unemo- 
tional way asserted that, although he had formerly resisted 
all efforts to make him tell the truth as to his real manner 
of living, he now felt that the time had come when this 
painful duty could no longer be postponed. How to repent, 
however, he did not know. The story which was told in 
cold-blooded fashion was, briefly, as follows: Before pro- 
fessing Christian conversion he had been a wild fellow, and 
among other crimes had twice set fire to the houses of his 
neighbors. After profession of conversion he had been em- 
ployed as a colporteur. In this connection he had thrown 
away or destroyed the books he was paid to distribute, had 
told his employer that robbers had attacked him and stolen 
them, and thus had collected his full salary. Still later he 
had renounced all pretence of Christianity and had himself 
become a robber. His life as a theological student up to the 
present time had been characterized by pride, envy, and 
constant secret hatred of those of his fellow-students who had 
surpassed him in their studies. 

Among the most significant of the confessions were those 
of bitter hatred of the Japanese, and even of murderous 
thoughts and plans toward them. These wholesome self- 
accusations were in several instances followed by earnest and 
pathetic petitions not only for forgiveness of themselves, 
but for the Divine blessing upon their enemies. [In this 
connection it is pertinent to remark that, while there has 
undoubtedly been much ill-treatment of Koreans by Japan- 
ese, I have never known of any of that bitter race-hatred 
toward the former by the latter, which undoubtedly at the 
present time permeates a large part of the Korean popula- 
tion toward the Japanese.] On being asked to say a few 
words to these students, I spoke of the unreasonable and un- 



no IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Christian character of race-hatred and asked them to put 
from their minds all such foolish and wicked feelings. And 
then, as though to emphasize the beauty and brightness of 
nature as con rasted with the unseemly and dark condi- 
tion of man, we came out under a sky as clear and alight 
with scintillating stars as I have ever seen in India or in 
Egypt. 

On our arrival at the station of Pyeng-yang, to return to 
Seoul, on the morning of Wednesday, April loth, the little 
fellows from the Presbyterian mission-school were there 
before us, already in line with Korean and American flags 
flying, and with drums and trumpets making a creditable 
noise. The appropriate parting address to this school had 
scarcely been finished, when another school appeared in the 
distance, on the double-quick for the station, to whom, when 
they had got themselves into proper shape, Dr. Noble re- 
peated the substance of the words just spoken to their com- 
rades earlier arrived. Scarcely was this finished, when, for 
the third time and now it was the pupils from the Con- 
fucian school a troop of boys came scurrying through the 
dust, lined up, and claimed their share of the foreign sahib^ 
parting salutation and advice. And then we were slowly 
drawn out of the station, and leaving behind on the fence 
the several hundred school-children and on the platform the 
several score of Korean Christians and of Japanese who had 
come to send us off, we returned without further incident 
to Seoul. 

The few crowded days at Pyeng-yang appear in retrospect 
as an epitome of Korean history, Korean temperament, and 
the physical and social relations sustained in the past and at 
the present time between Korea and Japan. Improvement 
may confidently be expected in the near future, according 
as the economical and social forces are combined with the 
moral and the religious to bear upon the population now 



A VISIT TO PYENG-YANG in 

adult. But the larger and more permanent hopes for the 
future depend upon the school-children, who, even to-day, 
are becoming more intelligent, orderly, and self-controlled 
than their ancestors ever have been. 



CHAPTER VI 

CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 

BESIDES Seoul and Pyeng-yang the two most important 
seaports of Korea, which are. Chemulpo and Fusan, were the 
only places in the peninsula where it seemed possible to arrange 
for even a single address. An honest attempt was made by 
a personal visit of the foreign secretary of the Young Men's 
Christian Association to " negotiate" an invitation from the 
Koreans of Song-do, the ancient capital under the dynasty 
preceding that at present on the throne. But Song-do is 
an exceedingly conservative city, and the family of Yun Chi- 
ho is influential there. Thus, even its Korean Christians 
did not care to hear addresses on matters of morals and 
religion from a guest of the Japanese Resident-General. 
It is well to recall again in this connection the fact that, 
although Pyeng-yang has actually suffered more at the hands 
of Japanese invaders than any other city of Korea, the influ- 
ence of the Christian missionaries and their converts was so 
powerful there that the most sympathetic and crowded 
native audiences greeted the "friend of Japan" in that city. 
There, too, in connection with Dr. Noble, presiding elder 
of the Methodist missions in all that part of the country, I 
was able to be of most service to both countries in a time of 
rather unusual threatening and exigency. This fact con- 
firms the impression that, in Seoul, fear of the Court and 
of the Yang-bans is cramping the work even of the foreign 
religious teachers. But Chemulpo and Fusan are the 



CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 113 

places in Korea where the two peoples have been longest 
in the compelling contact of common business interests. 
Observation of results in these places had, therefore, some 
special value. The visit to Fusan came later, and properly 
belongs to the story of our departure from Korea. But the 
visit to Chemulpo and its experiences may fitly be spoken of 
in this place. 

The invitation to speak at Chemulpo came from the Japan- 
ese Resident and from the Mayor, as official , representatives 
of the educational interests of the city. The affair was, there- 
fore, conducted much more in the familiar Japanese style than 
were the invitations to speak in Seoul or Pyeng-yang. At the 
same time, it had been decided that I was to address a 
Korean audience in Chemulpo, and Dr. Jones had consented 
to make this possible by the help of his valuable skill in inter- 
pretation. It had been arranged that we should meet him 
and Mr. Zumoto, who was to interpret the address to the Jap- 
anese, at the South Gate station for the 11.40 A.M. express. 
But as the time of leaving approached, it appeared that 
something was detaining the Doctor; finally we were obliged 
to go on without *him. In person he appeared at Chemulpo 
in the early afternoon and explained that he had been de- 
tained in order to prepare for the funeral of one of the native 
members of his church; several hours still later, while we 
were taking tea at the Resident's house, we were handed 
(as an example of the despatch with which this service is at 
present rendered in Korea) the explanatory telegram which 
had been sent in the early morning. 

The fields between Seoul and Chemulpo, on the morning 
of May 6, 1907, were beautifully green, for the spring rains 
had been unusually abundant and the crops were corre- 
spondingly promising. Combined with the darker green of 
the pines, and contrasted with the red and yellow of the 
sand and rocks, they gave back to the eye that more vivid 



ii 4 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

but less soothing pleasure of the Korean landscape to which 
reference has already been so frequently made. Along this 
line of railway, as everywhere, there is the same impression 
of undeveloped agricultural resources; there is also the same 
temptation to imagine how it will all look in the years to 
come, when Korea has been lifted out of its low industrial 
condition. 

At the station we were met by the official deputation and 
escorted to the Japanese Club. The impression made by 
the streets through which we passed was not pleasing; for 
there had been rain, the air was laden with cold moisture, 
and the ground was either rough or torn up for repairs and 
heavy for the jinrikisha pullers with its coating of mud. 
But it should be remembered that this part of Chemulpo is 
in the making, whereas the older part had a few weeks be- 
fore been swept by a destructive fire. The Chinese town, 
through which we now passed, bore a decayed air; but 
when the Japanese quarter was reached, in spite of the recent 
loss of some 400 houses, there was a thrifty and prosperous 
look, an appearance of determination, of not-to-mind-what- 
cannot-be-helped, so characteristic of the people themselves. 
The work of rebuilding this quarter was going briskly forward. 

The population of Chemulpo consisted at that time of 
some 12,000 Japanese, from 15,000 to 20,000 Koreans, and 
about 2,000 Chinese (before the Japan-China war the num- 
ber of the Chinese was about 5,000). There are less than 
ico European and American residents. It is hoped by those 
interested in the business prospects of the city that, after 
the through all-rail route from Tairen to St. Petersburg is 
made in all respects first-class and the consummation of 
this project will quickly follow under the management of 
Baron Goto and the Russian authorities, as soon as the com- 
mercial treaty between Japan and Russia takes effect 
Chemulpo will be an important port of entry for the in- 



CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 115 

creasing trade of Korea. But the harborage is now so poor 
that ships of any considerable size have to lie far out in the 
offing, and the sand-bars between this anchorage and the 
wharfs are constantly forming and shifting their location. 
This coast of Korea is also made very dangerous by numerous 
rocky islands and sunken reefs, by variable and strong cur- 
rents, and by one of the highest average tides to be found 
anywhere in the world. Plans for improving the harbor are, 
therefo e, very important. Right in front of the Chinese 
hotel where we spent the night, the flats are being filled in, 
apparently with the double purpose of securing an extension 
of building lots, and also of shortening somewhat the distance 
between the city and the shipping at low tide. But the per- 
manent improvement of the harbor of Chemulpo and this 
is equivalent to securing one good port of entry for the 
entire western coast of Korea offers a difficult problem. 
Either of the two ways of solving the problem which have 
hitherto been considered would be exceedingly expensive. 
To enclose a basin with a sea-wall and shut in the tide- 
water by gates, or to extend the wharf out some two miles 
to deep water, would cost many millions of yen. 

After an excellent tiffin at the club, where we met some 
twenty Japanese ladies and gentlemen, I spoke to an audience 
of not more than one hundred and fifty of this nationality 
almost exclusively but of both sexes. The audience rep- 
resented the educational and official interests of the city 
which, as is customary in Japan and elsewhere, are not 
paramount in places devoted to trade and commerce. Mr. 
Zumoto interpreted; the ethical and hortatory turn given 
to the remarks made them, apparently, no less but even 
more heartily received. I have already called attention to 
the striking fact that the thoughtful Japanese are becoming 
more impressed with the truth of the old-fashioned, but not 
as yet quite defunct, thought that it is, after all, "righteous- 



n6 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

ness which exalteth a nation." But the Koreans, as a 
people, have still to awake to th impression that either 
science or morality has any important bearing on the ma- 
terial and social welfare of the nation's life. Following the 
lecture, there was tea at the Residency House; after which 
we were taken to one of those curious but by no means un- 
comfortable hostleries which one comes upon in the Far 
East. It was under the sign of "E. D. Steward & Co., 
Store . Keeper . & Hotel and Ship . Compradore." The name 
" Steward" was assumed by its Chinese owner because he 
had filled this office on a small steamship for some years 
before. The advertisement did not at all exaggerate the 
variety of enterprises carried on under the same extensive 
roof by this example of a thrifty race. In the rooms over the 
store the representative of Mr. "Steward" (for we did not 
learn his true designation, either for this life of business or 
his "heavenly name") cared for his guests as well as could 
reasonably be expected. 

Most of the following morning was spent in conversation 
with Mr. W. D. Townsend, who has been in Korea since 
May, 1884, when he arrived at Chemulpo to open a branch 
of the "American Trading Co." He thus antedates the 
founding of missionary work in Korea, although Dr. R. S. 
McClay had visited Seoul in June, 1883, to make arrange- 
ments for a mission; and Dr. Horace N. Allen, who afterward 
served as the representative of the United States Govern- 
ment, reached Korea in the September following. This 
conversation, continued on during luncheon at Mr. Town- 
send's house, gave me incidents and opinions illustrating the 
problem I was studying as it appears to a shrewd and ex- 
perienced man of business. Facts and opinions from this 
point of view were, I believed, no less important and in- 
forming than those to be learned from the missionary or the 
native or foreign official. 



CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 117 

In the afternoon I spoke on the "Five Elements of Na- 
tional Prosperity" to an audience of about 600 Koreans, 
fully half of whom were children, and part of whom kept 
coming and going. The Japanese Resident, Mr. Kenochi, 
was present. The quality of the attention and interest did 
not seem to me to reach the level of the audiences in Seoul; 
but this was only what was to be expected from the nature 
of the population and the occupations of the Koreans in 
Chemulpo. From the church we had a not unpleasant walk 
to the suburban station, accompanied by a number of the 
Japanese gentlemen and ladies who felt it their official but 
friendly duty to see us off for Seoul. On reaching Miss 
Sontag's house we dined with the German Consul, Dr. Ney, 
Mr. Eckert, the skilful trainer of the Korean band, and 
other German friends, on invitation of our hostess. 

With reference to the improvements already accomplished 
in Korea, and to a considerable extent through Japanese 
official influence and unofficial example, Mr. Townsend called 
my attention to the following particulars. Previous to the 
opening of the country to foreign trade there was no possi- 
bility of accumulating wealth in Korea. For, as one of the 
few thoughtful Koreans had remarked: "If there was a 
large crop of rice and beans, there was no one to buy it, and 
it would not keep over for two years. Therefore we ate more 
and worked less; for what could we do with the surplus but 
eat it? But when the crops failed, we starved or died of 
the pest that followed." It so happened, in fact, that the year 
after the opening of the country there was a large crop; and 
now for the first time in the history of Korea, there was not 
only something to sell but a market for it. There had, in- 
deed, been trade for centuries between the southern part of 
the country and the adjoining regions of Japan, especially 
the island of Tsushima. But in this trade Korea parted 
with its gold, out of which the Japanese themselves were 



n8 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

subsequently cheated by the Dutch, who took it off to Hol- 
land. Thus neither of the nations in the Far East was en- 
riched in any permanent way; both were the rather im- 
poverished as respects their store of resources for the future. 

Under the Japanese, Mr. Townsend was confident as is 
every one acquainted with the past and present conditions 
that there would soon be a very considerable development of 
the country's resources. This would take place especially 
in the lines of silk-culture, raising rice and beans, and graz- 
ing and dairy products. For all these forms of material 
prosperity the country was by soil and climate admirably 
adapted. Up to this time the rinderpest had been allowed to 
ravage the herds unchecked. In a single year it had carried 
off thousands of bullocks, so that the following spring the 
entire family of the peasants would have to join forces 
men, women, and children to pull their rude ploughs 
through the stiff mud. As to the culture of fruit, the out- 
look did not seem so hopeful. The market was limited; 
the various pests were unlimited in number of species and 
individuals, and in voracity. A certain kind of caterpillars 
eat pine-needles only; and some gentlemen, in order to 
protect the pine-trees in their yards, were obliged to hire 
Koreans to pick these pests off the trees, one by one, by the 
pailful at a time. It seems to me, however, that in time 
these difficulties may be overcome by the very favorable 
character of soil and climate for many kinds of fruits, by the 
possibility of ridding the country of the pests and of im- 
proving the already excellent varieties of fruits, and by the 
development of the canning industry. 

As to the effect of the Japanese Protectorate upon the 
business of foreign firms, Mr. Townsend assured me that 
the honorable firms were pleased with it and considered it 
favorable to the extension of legitimate business. Un- 
scrupulous promoters do not, of course, enjoy being checked 



CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 119 

by the Resident- General in their efforts to plunder the Korean 
resources. In this conversation with Mr. Townsend I learned 
the details of one of those dishonorable promoting schemes 
which have been, and still are, the disgrace of some of the 
foreign residents in Korea. But this is not the worst of 
them. They become the disgrace of the countries from 
which the promoters come, so often as the latter can success- 
fully appeal to the consuls or other diplomatic representa- 
tives of their nationals for official support in their nefarious 
schemes. 

The relations, both business and social, between the 
Japanese and the Koreans in Chemulpo are now much 
improved. Indeed, there is at present an almost complete 
absence of race-hatred between the two. Formerly, on some 
trifling occasion of a quarrel started between a Japanese 
and a Korean, an angry mob of several hundred on each side 
would quickly gather; and unless the other foreigners inter- 
fered in time, there was sure to be serious fighting and even 
bloodshed . B ut the growing number of those belonging to both 
nations who understand each other's language and each other's 
customs has almost entirely done away with the tendency 
to similar riots. Indeed, a positive feeling of friendliness is 
springing up between certain individuals and families of the 
two nationalities. All of which tends to confirm the state- 
ment of another business man this time of Seoul, where 
the hatred of the Koreans for the Japanese is studiously kept 
aglow by Korean officialdom and by selfishly interested 
foreigners that in fifty years, or less, no difference would 
be known between the two. There will then, perhaps, be 
Koreans boasting of their Japanese descent and Japanese 
boasting of their Korean descent; and a multitude of the 
people who will not even raise the question for themselves 
as to which kind of blood is thickest in their veins. Every- 
where on the face of the earth ethnology is teaching the 



120 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

lesson that "purity" of blood. is as much a fiction as is the 
so-called " primitive man." 

According to Mr. Townsend, one cause of the deforestation 
of so large regions of Korea in former times was the fear of 
tigers; this fear was, of course, greatly increased by the fact 
that the Government did not dare to entrust the people with 
firearms. The tiger-hunters were, it will be remembered, a 
species of officials who composed the bravest, and oftentimes 
the only brave, troops in the king's army. As late as about 
sixty years ago the principal road to Pyeng-yang from Seoul 
passed through a stretch of dense forest infested with tigers. 
As long as the slaughter by these beasts did not average more 
than one man a week, the people thought it could be borne; 
but when the number killed in this way rose to one or two a 
day, they applied to the Tai Won Kun, and permission was 
given to cut down the forest. 

The prevalence of the tiger and also the method of govern- 
mental control over their capture and over the sale of their 
skins is well illustrated by the following amusing story. 
Recently, a foreigner who was fond of hunting big game, 
brought a letter of introduction to Mr. Townsend and asked 
him to negotiate for him with two tiger-hunters for a trip to 
the region of Mokpo. Knowing well the Korean character 
as respects veracity, it was necessary for the inquirer to 
discover in indirect ways whether the men were really 
courageous and skilful hunters, as well as whether tigers 
were really to be met in the region over which it was pro- 
posed to hunt. Something like the following conversation 
then took place: "You claim to be brave tiger-hunters, but 
have you ever actually killed a tiger?" "Yes, of course, 
many of them." "But what are you hunting at the present 
time?" "Just now we are hunting ducks." "How much 
is a tiger worth to you when you succeed in getting one?" 
"Well, if we can have all there is of him the skin, the 



CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 121 

bones" (which, when powdered, make a medicine much 
prized by the Chinese on account of its supposed efficacy in 
imparting vigor or restoring strength), "-and all the rest, we 
should make at least no yen. 11 "Why, then, do you hunt 
ducks which bring you so little, when you might kill tigers, 
which are worth so much?" "Yes, but if I kill a tiger, the 
magistrate hears of it and sends for me; and he says: 'You 
are a brave man, for you have killed a tiger. You deserve 
a reward for your courage. Here are five yen; but the 
tiger, you know, belongs to the Crown, and I will take that 
in the name of His Majesty.' Now do you think I am going 
to risk my life to earn 1 20 yen for the magistrate, who squeezes 
me enough anyway, and get only 5 yen for myself?" 

"But, tell me truly, are there really tigers to be found in 
that neighborhood?" "Yes, indeed, there are." "How 
do you know that?" "Why, just recently two men of the 
neighborhood were eaten by tigers." "Indeed, that is cer- 
tainly encouraging." "It may be encouraging for the 
foreign gentleman who wishes to- hunt the tiger, but it was 
not very encouraging for the Korean gentlemen who were 
eaten by tigers." The grim humor of all this will be the 
better appreciated when it is remembered how omniscient 
and omnivorous are the Korean magistrates as "squeezers"; 
and how large the chances of the tiger are against the hunter, 
when the latter is equipped only with an old-fashioned musket 
and a slow-burning powder which must be lighted by a fuse. 

A story of a quite different order will always attach itself 
in my memory to the name of Chemulpo. During the Chino- 
Japan War one of the missionary families, now in Seoul, was 
living in the part near the barracks where the Japanese 
soldiers were quartered until they could be sent by sea to the 
front. One day a petty officer came up on the porch of the 
house, uninvited; but after accepting gratefully the cup of 
tea offered to him, being unable to speak any English, he 



122 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

went away, leaving the object of his apparent intrusion 
quite unexplained. Soon after, however, he returned with 
some twenty of his comrades, mostly petty officers, accom- 
panying him; and when the hostess was becoming somewhat 
alarmed at the number for whom she might be expected to 
furnish tea and cakes, one of the company, who could best 
express their wishes in the foreign language, revealed the 
motive of the soldiers' visit. He explained in broken Eng- 
lish that they had come to see the baby a girl about two 
years old. The little one was then brought out by the 
mother and placed in the arms of the speaker, who carried 
the child along the line formed of his comrades and gave 
each one a chance to see her, to smile at her, and to say a 
few words to her in an unknown tongue. On going away, 
after this somewhat formal paying of respects to "the baby," 
the Japanese officer still further explained: "Madam," said 
he, " to-morrow morning we are going to the front and we 
do not expect ever to return. But before we go to die, we 
wanted to bid good-by to the baby." In the Russo-Japanese 
war nothing else so cheered the soldiers of Japan on their 
way to the transports for Manchuria as the crowds of school- 
children at all the railway stations, with their flags and their 
banzais. The number of the regiment to which these sol- 
diers, who bade good-by to the American baby before they 
went forth to die, was taken note of by the mother. Their 
expectation came true; they did not return. 

The only other excursion by rail from Seoul which we 
made during our visit to Korea was to attend the formal 
opening ceremony of the Agricultural and Industrial Model 
Station at Suwon. The history of its founding is copied 
from the account of the Seoul Press: 

Shortly after the inauguration of the Residency- General last 
year, the Korean Government was induced to engage a number 



CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 123 

of Japanese experts well versed in agriculture and dendrology 
with a view to the organizing and conducting a school for training 
young Koreans in the principles and practice of scientific hus- 
bandry and forestry. The establishment of such a school was 
absolutely necessary in order to insure success to the work of 
improving agriculture and forestry, to which the Resident-General 
wisely attached great importance. 

At the suggestion of these experts, it was decided to establish 
the school in question at Suwon, on a site adjacent to the Agri- 
cultural and Industrial Model Station there, the proximity of 
these two institutions being attended by various obvious advan- 
tages. The school-buildings and dormitories, together with houses 
for members of the faculty, were erected at a total outlay of a 
little over 44,000 yen, being completed by the end of 1906. 

Pending the completion of the buildings, instruction was, for 
the time being, given in the class-rooms of the former Agricultural, 
Commercial and Industrial School at Seoul from the loth of Sep- 
tember, 1906. The last-mentioned school had been established 
a few years ago under the control of the Department of Educa- 
tion. Its organization was too imperfect to make it possible for 
it to attain the object for which it was established. 

Early this year the School of Agriculture and Dendrology re- 
moved to its new quarters at Suwon. The post of principal is 
filled by the director of the Agricultural Bureau in the Depart- 
ment of Agriculture, Commerce and Industry. The teaching 
staff consists of five professors (Japanese) and two assistant pro- 
fessors (Koreans). 

There are two departments: (i) the Ordinary, and (2) the 
Special. The Ordinary Department extends over two years and 
the Special Department one year. The latter Department con- 
sists of two separate courses, namely, agricultural and dendro- 
logical. These courses are open to such of the graduates of the 
Ordinary Department as may desire still further to prosecute 
their studies in their respective special branches. Besides the 
above-mentioned departments, there is a practical training course 
for giving elementary instruction in some special subjects connected 
with agriculture or forestry. The term is not more than one year. 



124 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

It may be interesting to tabulate the various subjects taught in 
the respective departments. They are as follows: 

ORDINARY DEPARTMENT: Morals, Japanese, Mathematics, 
Physics and Meteorology, Natural History, Outlines of Agricul- 
ture, Soil and Manures, Crops, Dairy Produce, Sericulture, Agri- 
culture, Agricultural Manufacture, Outlines of Dendrology, Out- 
lines of Afforestation, Outlines of Veterinary Medicine, and 
Political Economy and Law. 

SPECIAL DEPARTMENT (Agricultural Course): Soil, Manure, 
Physiological Botany, Diseases of Crops, Injurious Insects, Dairy 
Produce, Sericulture and Spinning of Silk Yarns, Agricultural 
Manufactures, and Agronomy. 

SPECIAL DEPARTMENT (Dendrological Course) : Dendrological 
Mathematics, Afforestation and Forest Protection, Forest Econ- 
omy, Utilization of Forests, Forest Administration. 

Instruction in these subjects is given through the medium of 
interpreters, the last-mentioned office being fulfilled by the Korean 
Assistant Professors. The number of students fixed for the re- 
spective departments, is 80 for the Ordinary, and 40 for the 
Special Department, the number for the practical Training course 
being fixed each time according to the requirements. The num- 
ber of students at present receiving instruction is 26 in the Ordi- 
nary Department, and 12 in the Practical Training course. It 
is very satisfactory to learn that these students are highly com- 
mended for obedience, good conduct, and industry. This prom- 
ises well, not only for the success of the school, but for the progress 
of the nation. 

This lengthy account of the founding and progress of the 
school and station, whose opening ceremonial was to be cele- 
brated on Wednesday, May 15, 1907, is given because of 
the great importance of the relation which every such enter- 
prise sustains to the lasting success of the Japanese Pro- 
tectorate and to the welfare of Korea under this Protectorate. 
Hitherto, the considerable sums of money which have been 
from time to time obtained from the Korean Government to 



CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 125 

found and to foster schemes for improved education or 
industrial development have almost without exception been 
unfruitful expenditures. The appropriation has either been 
absorbed by the promoters of the schemes, or if really spent 
upon the objects for which it was appropriated, both interest 
and care have ceased with the spending of the money. Even 
the missionary schools, which have up to very recent times 
afforded the only means for obtaining the elements of a good 
modern education valuable as they have been, especially 
as means of propagandism have too often resulted in send- 
ing out graduates who, if they could not get the coveted 
official positions, were fit for nothing else. In Korea, as in 
India to take a conspicuous example the students from 
these schools have sometimes become rather more practically 
worthless for the service of their nation, or even positively 
mischievous, than they could have been if left uneducated. 
But what Korea now most imperatively needs is educated 
men, who are not afraid of honest work; men, also, who will 
not accept official position at the expense of their manly in- 
dependence and moral character, or gain it by means of 
intrigue and corruption. But "honest work" must, for a 
considerable time to come, be chiefly connected with the 
agricultural and industrial development of the country. 
Moreover, the institution at Suwon is demonstrating that 
the Koreans can make good students and skilful practitioners 
in the, to them, new sciences which give control over nature's 
resources for the benefit of man. The Confucian education 
hitherto dominant in this country has chiefly resulted in cul- 
tivating scholars who either sacrificed usefulness in service to 
the false sentiment of honor, or else subordinated the most 
fundamental principles of morality to that skill in official 
positions which secured the maximum of squeezes with the 
minimum of resistance. And, finally, nothing so under- 
mines and destroys race-hatred as the prolonged association 



126 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

of the two races in the peaceable relations of teacher and 
pupil; or of teachers and pupils with their respective col- 
leagues. 

Six car-loads of invited guests, belonging to all classes of 
the most influential people of Seoul and Chemulpo, left the 
South- Gate Station on a special train at one and a half 
o'clock, on that Wednesday afternoon, for Suwon. Marquis 
Ito and his staff, and other Japanese officials, Korean Min- 
isters and their guards, all the foreign Consuls, the principal 
men of business, representatives of the press, and Christian 
missionaries were of the party. The day was warm, but 
fine; the landscape was even more beautiful in its coloring 
than usual. On arrival at the station of Suwon, the guests 
were met by the Minister and Vice-Minister of Agriculture, 
Commerce and Industry, by Dr. Honda, the director of the 
Model Station, and others, who escorted them on foot over 
a newly made road through the paddy fields belonging to 
the station. It did not need an expert eye to see the immense 
difference, as regards economy of arrangement and efficiency 
of culture, between these fields and the relatively uneconomi- 
cally arranged and unproductive fields along the railway by 
which we had passed as we came to Suwon. 

The Agricultural School and Station are beautifully lo- 
cated; the lake, which has been made by damming a stream, 
with the plain under improved cultivation, and the surround- 
ing mountains, all combine to produce a charming scene. 
On reaching the Model Station itself a brief time for rest 
was allowed; this could be improved by those who wished 
to inspect the rooms where the specimens were displayed, 
and the laboratories of various kinds. The ceremonial pro- 
ceedings were opened by the director, Dr. Honda, who re- 
ported the progress already made and defined the work which 
was to be attempted for the future. The work was to con- 
sist in the improvement of the quality of the seeds, the in- 



CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 127 

troduction and acclimatization of new varieties of farm 
products, the instruction of the farmers, the supply of ma- 
nures, the effecting of improved irrigation, drainage, and pro- 
tection against inundation, the improvement of poultry and 
dairy farming, the introduction and encouragement of seri- 
culture, and the securing of more by-products on the farms. 

After a few words from Mr. Song, the Korean Minister of 
Agriculture, Marquis Ito made a somewhat lengthy ad- 
dress. He spoke frankly in criticism of the failures which 
the Korean Government had hitherto made in its various 
attempts to accomplish anything for improving the miserable 
lot of the toiling millions of the Korean people. "Not only 
had nothing been done to ameliorate their condition, but 
much had been done to injure their interests and aggravate 
their miseries. Let those who boasted of their knowledge 
of Chinese philosophy remember the well-known teaching 
that the secret of statesmanship consists in securing the con- 
tentment of the people." His Excellency then referred to the 
example of the great Okubo in Japan, who founded an 
agricultural college there in 1875, spoke of the brilliant 
results which had followed this improved instruction and 
practice, and hoped that the Korean officials, in whose 
charge this well-equipped institution was now placed, would 
make it equally useful to the Korean people. 

The ceremonial part of the day was closed by an address 
by Mr. Kwon, the Minister of War, who had formerly been, 
although, as he confessed, without any knowledge of such 
matters, head of the Department of Agriculture, Commerce 
and Industry. It was indeed fourteen years since a depart- 
ment had been founded for the improvement of agriculture; 
but "nothing worth speaking of had been initiated by that 
department." After spending 170,000 yen on the station, 
Japan had kindly consented to turn it over to the Korean 
Government. He was hopeful that the change already 



128 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

beginning to be felt in the interests of the farming population 
of his country would in the near future result in a large im- 
provement in their condition. [It does not need to be said 
to those acquainted with the way in which such projects for 
developing the resources of Korea have hitherto been con- 
ducted, that both the grave rebuke of Marquis Ito and the 
confessions of the Korean Ministers are amply warranted.] 

The ceremony concluded, refreshments were served in 
and about an old and historically interesting Korean build- 
ing, which is situated a few rods below the farm station and 
just above the nearer end of the dam. After this, the whole 
company walked back to the railway by a road laid out on 
the back of the dam, which is shaded with young trees and 
made attractive by views of lake, fertile plains, and hill- 
sides and mountains in the distance on every side. On the 
plain below the dam some Koreans were holding a panto- 
mimic celebration, or merry-making, of the sort which it is 
their custom to commit to hired bands of men skilful in 
affording this species of amusement. On the hill-sides at 
the end of the dam, and above the track of the railway, 
hundreds of other Koreans adults in glistening white and 
children in colors of varied and deepest dyes were quietly 
enjoying the scene. When the train stopped at the point 
nearest the end of the pleasant walk, it was, I am sure, a 
well satisfied crowd of guests which returned by it to Seoul. 

With this ceremony at Suwon another which I had pre- 
viously attended in Seoul naturally connects itself.. This 
was the opening of the Industrial Training School, the 
initial outlay for which, including the cost of buildings and 
apparatus, amounted to a little more than 110,000 yen. 
The significance of this enterprise will be the better under- 
stood when it is remarked that the native workmen of to- 
day make nothing whatever, with the exception of a few 
cheap brasses and the attractive Korean chests, that any 



CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 129 

foreigner would be inclined to buy. Moreover, their own 
tools and machinery of every description are exceedingly 
crude and old-fashioned. At the ceremony in Seoul ad- 
dresses were made similiar to those listened to at the Suwon 
affair. Mr. Yamada, the principal of the Institute, reported 
that out of the eleven hundred applicants who had presented 
themselves for examination, fifty students had been admitted. 
Marquis Ito and the Korean speakers dwelt upon the same 
facts namely, the deplorable backwardness of the nation in 
industrial matters, the unsatisfactory results of past endeavors 
at improvement, and the needs and hopes of the future. 
After the addresses, the guests visited the different workshops, 
where the Korean students were to be given manual training; 
and then resorted to the sides of the mountain above, where 
refreshments were served. The decorative features of the 
festivities consisting of the Korean crowds on the upper 
mountain sides, the uniformed officials in and around the 
refreshment booths, and the brilliant bloom of the cherry 
bushes and plum trees were even more striking than at 
Suwon. On this occasion it was my pleasure to receive a 
cordial greeting from some of the Korean officials, among 
whom was the Minister of the Interior, the cousin of the 
Governor at Pyeng-yang. It was evident that he had heard 
from his cousin of the assistance rendered directly by the 
missionaries and indirectly by me, in the way of quieting the 
excited condition of the Korean population at the time of 
our visit. 

If official corruption can be kept aloof from these enter- 
prises, and an honest and intelligent endeavor made to carry 
out the plans of the Japanese Government under Marquis 
Ito for the agricultural and industrial development of Korea, 
there is little reason to doubt that a speedy and great im- 
provement will result. That the Korean common people, 
in spite of their characteristic air of indifference and their 



130 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

appearance of indolence, can be stirred with ambition, and 
that when aroused they will make fairly industrious and apt 
learners, there is, in my judgment, no good reason to deny. 
The experience of the "Seoul Electric Railway," and of 
other similar enterprises, favors this judgment. Not to 
speak of the financial methods of this company, and after 
admitting that the physical condition of its property and the 
character of its service leave much to be desired, it has been, 
on the whole, successful in demonstrating the possibility of 
conducting such business enterprises by means of Korean 
labor. Mr. Morris, its manager, who came to Seoul in July, 
1899, told me the interesting story of his earlier experiences. 
The working of the road during the first years of its running 
was accompanied by enormous difficulties. Neither the pas- 
sengers, nor the motormen and the conductors had any 
respect for the value of time; most of the employees had even 
to learn how to tell time by their watches. The populace 
thought it proper for the cars to stop anywhere, and for any 
length of period which seemed convenient to them. If the 
car did not stop, the passengers made a mad rush for it and 
attempted to jump on; they also jumped off wherever they 
wished, whether the car stopped or not. This practice re- 
sulted in serious bruises and fractured skulls as an almost 
daily occurrence. Native pedestrians in the streets of Seoul 
were not content to walk stolidly and with a dignified strut 
(which is still the habit of the Korean before an approaching 
Japanese jinrikisha) along the track in the daylight, with 
the expectation that the car would go around them; but at 
evening they utilized the road-bed by lying down to sleep on 
the track with their heads on boards placed across its rails. 
One dark night in the first summer three men were killed by 
the last trip between the river and the city. In those days 
the broad thoroughfare, which is now kept open for its entire 
length, was greatly narrowed by rows of booths and "chow' 7 



CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 131 

shops on either side. Here the men from the country would 
tie their ponies (the Korean pony is notable for his vicious 
temper when excited) to the tables, and> reclining upon the 
same tables, would proceed to enjoy their portion of food. 
When the electric car came through the centre of the street, 
the beasts went wild with fright; sometimes they dashed 
into the shops ; sometimes they fled down the street dragging 
the tables and scattering "chow" and men in every direc- 
tion. At one place the line to the river runs over a low hill 
which is, in the popular superstition, a part of the body of 
the rain-bringing Dragon. In a dry season the people be- 
came greatly excited and threatened violence to those who 
had brought upon them the calamity of drought by such 
sacrilege done to the body of this deity. Mr. Morris had 
himself fled for his life before a Korean mob who were ready 
to tear him in pieces to avenge the killing of a child by the 
car. At the present time, however, there were fewer acci- 
dents in Seoul than on the electric car-lines of Japan; and 
many fewer than those from the same cause in the larger 
cities of the United States. In one of the more recent years 
they had carried 6,000,000 passengers and had only killed 
one. This is certainly not a bad record ; for while, on the one 
hand, the service of the road is relatively slow and infrequent, 
on the other hand, in Seoul there are no sidewalks and the 
streets are thronged with foot-passengers and with children 
at play. 

One other excursion from Seoul is, perhaps, worthy of 
record as throwing some sidelights upon Korea this time, 
however, chiefly an affair of recreation. This was the ascent 
of Puk Han, the ancient place of royal refuge in cases of 
revolt or foreign invasion. The party consisted of Mr. 
Cockburn, the British Consul- General; Mr. Davidson, the 
successor of J. McLeavy Brown in the Department of Cus- 
toms; Dr. and Mrs. Wm. B. Scranton, and Madam Scranton, 



132 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

the mother of the Doctor. Mr. Cockburn and Mr. David- 
son made the ascent as far as was possible in jinrikishas, 
and the rest of the party in chairs carried by four or six 
coolies each. By the longer way out ^which the party took, 
there was, however, much walking (but no hard climbing) 
to do; and by the shorter way home, with its much steeper 
descent, there was little besides walking which could safely 
be done by any one. 

The actual start was preceded by the customary bargain- 
ing with the coolies. This resulted in reducing by one-half 
the original charge only to find the head man applying 
late in the evening after our return for an additional " present " 
direct from me, in reliance on my ignorance of the fact that 
a handsome present had already been given through the 
friend who made the arrangement. But, then, such squeezes 
are not confined to Korea in the Far East, nor are they 
peculiar to the Far East and infrequent in London, Paris, 
and New York. 

Under "Independence Arch," where, as we have already 
seen, the promise of a new and really independent Korea is 
built into the form of a monument of stone, the whole party 
were photographed. At a small village some three miles 
from Seoul, the coolies made another stop; here they re- 
ceived their first advance of money for "chow." In the 
street of the village was standing one of those gorgeous 
palanquins which serve as biers, and which give the lifeless 
body of the poorest Korean his one ride in state to the hill- 
sides where the tombs of the dead hold the ground against 
the fields needed for cultivation by the living. But these 
hill-sides at least serve the living to some good purpose as 
preferred places for recreation and for intercourse with 
nature, as well as, in some sort, with their deceased ancestors. 
In Korea, as in India, birth, marriage, and death are expen- 
sive luxuries for the poor; to get into the world, to beget an 



CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 133 

heir, and to get out of the world again, absorb all the accu- 
mulated resources of a lifetime of toil for the average Korean. 
Surely, under such circumstances, "the will to live" lays 
itself open to the charge of Schopenhauer that it is blind 
and working ever to the production of increased misery. 
Industrial development, firmly coupled with improved moral- 
ity, and with the cheer and hopes of an elevating religion, 
as a true "psychical uplift," are the only sufficient cure for 
such pessimistic tendencies. 

Among the several attempts at photographing made on 
the way to Puk Han, were some intended to catch one of the 
numerous Korean children who appeared puris in natural- 
ibus. These were uniformly unsuccessful. Pictures of this 
characteristic sort were not to be had by us foreigners, al- 
though the attempts were supported by the offer of sizable 
coins. At the first motion to point the camera toward these 
features of the landscape, they took to their heels and fled 
afar with urgent precipitancy. 

Within perhaps two miles of the Outer Gate of the moun- 
tain Fortress we were obliged to dismount, the way having 
become too rough and difficult even for chairs with four 
coolies each. Puk Han's wall was built in 1711; although 
there is a not altogether improbable tradition that the moun- 
tain, which is somewhat more than 2,000 feet high, was 
fortified long before, under the Pakje kingdom. The gate 
through which one enters the walled enclosure is picturesque 
and interesting. Not far inside the wall, across a little valley, 
are to be seen the solid stone foundations of the new Bud- 
dhist temple which is to take the place of one that was de- 
stroyed by fire. This is one of several indications that the 
introduction of modern civilization and of Christian missions 
is to be followed in Korea, as it certainly has been followed 
in Japan and elsewhere, by a revival of the spirit, and an 
improvement in the form and efficacy, of the older religion of 



i 3 4 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

the country. Buddhism has, indeed, been for centuries 
largely lacking in all moral force and spiritual satisfactions in 
Korea. But I cannot agree with those who are so sure that 
it is not capable of revival there, of improvement, and even 
of offering a vigorous competition to Christian evangelizing. 

As we climbed up toward the pavilion in which we were 
to take our luncheon, we saw few ruins of the structures which 
were once scattered over the area within the mountain's 
wall; but everywhere was an abundance of beautiful wild 
flowers and flowering shrubs. Among the many varieties 
were wigelia, cypripedium, several kinds of iris, Solomon' s- 
seal, syringa, hydrangea, giant saxifrage, large white cle- 
matis, hawthorne, jassamine, lilies of the valley, many kinds 
of violets and azaleas, wild white roses, viburnum, Allegheny 
vine, and wild cherry. 

About twenty minutes before we reached the pavilion where 
it was proposed to spread out our luncheon, great drops of 
rain caused us to quicken our pace; and the following smart 
shower which crept by the brow of the overhanging moun- 
tain, in spite of the protection of our umbrellas, gave the 
party somewhat of a wetting before shelter was reached. 
But soon the rain was over; the sun came gloriously out; 
the mountain stream which was just below the outer wall 
of the pavilion ran fuller and more merrily; and the food 
was more comforting in contrast with the slight preceding 
discomfort. 

Lying in the sun on a shelving rock, I had an interesting 
conversation with the English Consul- General. In the 
course of this Mr. Cockburn expressed the amazement of 
his country at what he graciously called the "patience" of 
Americans in putting up so quietly with political and social 
wrongs which the English had refused any longer to suffer, 
now nearly a century ago. He seemed sincerely gratified 
at my assurance that the feeling of the United States toward 



CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 135 

England is more cordial and appreciative of our common 
good and common mission in the world than was the case 
twenty-five and thirty years ago. I found myself also in 
hearty agreement with his view that the treaty between Great 
Britain and Japan, whether it should prove of commercial 
advantage to the former, or not, was fruitful of good to the 
latter nation, to the Far East, and to mankind as interested 
.in the world's peace. 

At about four o'clock the party started on its return to 
Seoul. The distance was some ten miles, most of which 
must be walked, by a rather steep descent in places over 
barren surfaces of granite rock. But the path at first led 
us still higher up the mountain until, having passed through 
an inner gate, we reached the outer wall upon the other side 
of the whole enclosure. For as much of the slope of Puk 
Han, as somewhat more than two miles of rambling wall can 
embrace, constitutes this fortified retreat of the Korean 
monarchy. Thus, with its stores of provisions and implements 
of war, the cultivated fields, palaces, and other official and 
unofficial residences inside, it was intended that Puk Han, 
like its somewhat earlier colleague, the fortresses of Kang 
Wha, should resist siege by any numbers and for any length 
of time. But from prehistoric times to Port Arthur, and all 
over the earth from Sevastopol to Daulatabad, the experi- 
ences of history have shown how vain is the hope of the rulers 
of men to ward off the results of moral and political degen- 
eracy by walls of stone and implements of iron. 

Far away on he very top of the mountain, to the left of 
our path, stood a watch-tower which commanded a view of 
all this part of Korea. From both of the gates in this por- 
tion of the wall, which, although they are only a short dis- 
tance apart, look toward different points of the compass, 
the views are extensive and charming. To the southward 
one could look down the steep mountain side, over a valley 



136 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

from which rose rocky but brilliantly colored hills, bare for 
the most part of foliage, and through which the silvery 
thread of the River Han wound its way, upon a series of 
mountain ranges bounded only by the horizon. From the 
Western gate were to be seen Chemulpo and its island-dotted 
harbor, and beyond the open sea. 

The downward path of Puk Han winds around the moun- 
tain, from the Southern gate in the wall toward the north- 
west; and although it is quite too steep and rough for safe 
descent in chairs, it is not particularly difficult for those who 
walk it with sound knee-joints and ordinarily careful and 
judicious feet. For the first five or six miles it affords an 
uninterrupted series of interesting and beautiful views. 
Here the colors of the rock, when seen in full sunlight, were 
trying for all* but the most insensitive eyes. But as the light 
was modified by the occasional passing of clouds, or by the 
changes in the relation of the path to the points of the com- 
pass, the effect was kaleidoscopic in character on a mag- 
nificent scale. On this side of the mountain the shapes of 
the rocks are peculiar. In general, each mountain-ridge 
supreme, subordinate, or still inferior is -composed of a 
series of pyramidally-shaped granite structures, rising higher 
and higher as to their visible summits; but with their sides 
welded, as it were, together, and their surfaces of disintegrated 
yellowish or reddish rock. Between the sides of the pyramids 
in each series, and between the different series, and between 
the higher ranges composed of the series, are dry ravines, 
down which the summer rains -descend in torrents, keeping 
the slopes of all these rocky elevations almost bare of verdure. 
Thus there is produced an aspect of severe grandeur quite 
out of proportion to the real height of the mountains. But 
this aspect is relieved by an abundant growth of wild flowers 
and flowering shrubs such as have been already named and 
still others with more gorgeous blossoms than I have any- 



CHEMULPO AND OTHER PLACES 137 

where else seen produced by the same species. With these 
the ladies filled all hands, and all the luncheon baskets and 
then even the chairs, which, however, we took again as soon 
as it became practicable, to the relief of feet and knees; and 
thus we entered the city by the North- West Gate, where we 
stopped awhile to rest the men and to enjoy the magnificent 
view of Seoul from the inside of the gate. 

The excursion up Puk Han will certainly be remembered 
by some of the party as one of the most enjoyable to be 
obtained anywhere. It far surpasses most of those much- 
lauded by the guide-books in other more frequented but 
really less rewarding portions of the world. 

If time had permitted, by turning aside an hour or two, 
the ascent of Puk Han might have been varied by a visit 
to the " Great White Buddha." This rather interesting relic 
of a long-time decaying, but possibly now to be revived, 
Buddhism, I visited one morning in company with Mr. 
Gillett. The path to it leaves the main road some miles out 
of the city; where it begins to wind through the paddy fields 
it becomes somewhat difficult for jinrikishas. On the way 
one passes shrines such as are used not infrequently for the 
now forbidden exorcising ceremonies of the sorceresses, and 
heaps of stones that are continually being piled upon by the 
passers along the way, who wish thus to propitiate the spirits 
and to obtain good luck. The Buddha itself is a large and 
rudely-shaped figure, whitewashed on to the face of a rock, 
which has been escarped and covered with a pavilion, having 
a highly decorative frieze and a roof set-on granite pillars. 
A few women were there worshipping in the manner common 
to the ignorant populace in Korea and Japan i. e., clapping 
the hands, offering a small coin or two, and mumbling a 
prayer. A dirty, disreputable-looking priest was assiduously 
gathering up the coins, for they had merely been placed upon 
a table before the Buddha, instead of being thrown into an 



138 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

enclosed box. He volunteered the explanation that this was 
the most celebrated place in all Korea at which to offer 
effective prayer for a son; childless women, and also men, 
came from all over the land to worship at this shrine. In 
Korea, as well as in India and China, this vulgar and degrad- 
ing superstition is connected with ancestor worship namely, 
that the welfare of the living and the dead, in this world and 
in the next, is somehow inseparably bound up with begetting 
and bearing, or somehow possessing, a male descendant. 
No heavier curse is put on woman; no subtler form of tempta- 
tion to lust for man; no more burdensome restriction on 
society; and no more efficient check to a spiritual faith and 
a spiritual development exists among the civilized peoples of 
the world than this ancient but unworthy superstition. Even 
devil-worship is scarcely less cruel and socially degrading. 

It was with sincere regret that I left Korea without the 
opportunity to see the country even more widely, to feel more 
profoundly the spirit of its national life, and to become more 
acquainted in a relatively "first-hand" way with its history 
and its antiquities. I was confident that I had gained 
sufficient trustworthy information to judge fairly of the 
character of the native government Emperor and Court 
and Yang-bans to estimate in a measure the difficulties 
which encompassed the position of the Resident- General, 
and to appreciate the sincerity and self-sacrificing nature of 
his plans and the value of his achievements. But there are 
few countries in the world to-day where richer rewards await 
the expert and patient investigator of history and of an- 
tiquities. The history of Korea remains to be written; its 
antiquities are there to be explored. 



CHAPTER VII 

THE DEPARTURE 

SOON after breakfast on the morning of the day before 
our stay in Seoul came to an end (Monday, May 27th), a 
telephone message was reported with the inquiry whether we 
expected to be at home at ten o'clock. Contrary to the un- 
derstanding of the servant who brought the report, it proved 
to be Marquis Ito himself who, accompanied by General 
Murata, had kindly taken the time from his always busy 
morning hours to call in person and bid his guests good-by. 
Speaking with his customary quiet deliberation, brevity, and 
sincerity, His Excellency thanked me for the services ren- 
dered to him and to his nation, both directly and indirectly, 
by the visit to Korea; and the words which added a promise 
of continued friendship will always remain among the choicest 
of memories. In reply with more adequate reason but with 
no less sincerity and earnestness I thanked the Marquis for 
the confidence he had reposed in me, and as well for the 
experience which his invitation had furnished. If I had been 
of some small service, I had received a much more than 
adequate reward in the opportunity of seeing an interesting 
side of human life which had hitherto been, for the most 
part, unfamiliar to me. I also expressed my belief in a 
universal and omnipotent Spirit of Righteousness, who 
shapes the destinies of men and of nations, and who uses us 
all in His service if we so will to our own real well-being 
and to the good of humanity. God has so bound together 



i 4 o IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Japan and Korea, both physically and politically, .that their 
interests cannot be separated, whether for weal or for woe. 

In the afternoon of the same day, at the house of Mr. D. 
W. Stevens, whose hospitality we had before enjoyed and 
whose friendship we had learned highly to prize, we met at 
tea some twenty-five of the most intimate of the acquaintances 
made during the previous two months. This was not, how- 
ever, our final leave-taking of these friends. For the next 
morning at 8.50, at the South-Gate Station, most of the same 
persons gathered to give us one of those partings which one 
would not gladly miss, but which are always a mixture of sad 
pleasure and sweet pain. The insight of the Japanese lan- 
guage into such human experiences is shown by the fact 
that it has a single word which combines all these complex 
elements, and expresses them in itself. Nor do I find that 
the repetition of many such experiences in different far- 
away lands at all changes the intrinsic character of the feel- 
ings they excite. To make friends away from home is the 
traveller's choicest pleasure; to part soon from these friends 
is the traveller's keenest pain. 

The journey from Seoul to Fusan was without incident 
and accomplished on time. As furnishing a change in the 
character of the surroundings, it is almost equivalent to 
going from Korea to Japan. For Fusan is essentially a 
Japanese city, and has been such for many years. The 
greeting given us on arrival was also characteristically Japan- 
ese. There, on the platform, were thirty or more of both 
sexes, including the Resident and other officials, whose cards 
were handed to us with such speed and profusion that to 
recognize names was impossible, and even to avoid dropping 
some of the pieces was difficult. The harbor launch again 
served us, as it had done before, for transportation between 
railroad station and Japanese settlement. Only twenty 
minutes were allowed for effecting a presentable appearance 



THE DEPARTURE 141 

after the day's travel; and then we were ushered to the 
dining-room, where about fifty persons had gathered for a 
complimentary banquet. After this, the Resident intro- 
duced, welcomed, and proposed a toast for the guests, and 
Mr. Zumoto interpreted the response. The banquet finished, 
there followed, in another part of the hotel, an entertainment 
of juggling, a farce, and dancing to samisen and koto all by 
amateur performers. The day had certainly, when it ended, 
been sufficiently full of incident. But a real old-fashioned 
Japanese bath, in a deliciously soft wooden tub, with water 
at 1 08 Fahrenheit the first I had been able to obtain 
during this visit to Japan took away all soreness of flesh 
and weariness of spirit, and secured a good night's rest. 

The following morning in Fusan was dull and unpromising 
there was drizzle, cloud, and fog over land and sea, and a 
fresh breeze. In spite of the weather, however, we were 
taken in jinrikishas to the villa of Mr. Kuruda, one of the 
oldest of the Japanese settlers, a prosperous commission 
merchant and manufacturer of sake. This villa is seated 
on the mountain's side and is surrounded by as fine an ex- 
ample of a certain style of Japanese gardening as I have 
ever seen. Here is a profusion of artistic rock arrangement, 
decorated with shrubs and flowers, for the most part brought 
from Japan, and marking out ponds, paths, and favored 
points of view from which can be had glimpses of the charm- 
ing harbor and surrounding hills. The owner was proud to 
have us know that Marquis Ito makes the villa his home 
when journeying between Korea and Japan. Among other 
objects of interest in the garden is a huge boulder which fell 
from the mountain's side some twenty years ago; near this 
the owner of the garden has chosen his last resting-place, and 
upon it the proper inscription has already been prepared. 

After leaving the villa we were shown over one of the public 
schools which has been founded for the children of Japanese 



142 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

residents, and were bidden to notice how its reports showed 
the high average attendance of from 93 per cent, to 98 per 
cent., and even above, in the different grades, for the entire 
year. Next came a visit to a private school for girls, which 
is under the patronage of Japanese ladies, and which gives 
an education of a more distinctly domestic type. Here we 
were served with an excellent luncheon in foreign style, 
cooked by the pupils of the school; during and after which 
there was an entertainment consisting of tableaux vivants 
and a musical performance that might best be described as a 
trio of kotos with a violin obligate. One of these tableaux 
represented three young girls defending a castle wall with 
bow and arrow a scene corresponding to actual events of 
history; for, in fact, the loyalty of certain clans in the north 
of Japan carried them to such extremes in support of the 
Tokugawa dynasty. Indeed, through many centuries, Japan- 
ese women and girls have been far braver and more loyal in 
defence of their liege lord than Korean men have been. 

From this school we were taken to the park on the moun- 
tain, with its trees brought from Tsushima some two hundred 
years ago, to which reference has already been made (p. 15) 
as the only one in all Korea. The Shinto temple upon the 
hill-top is equally old, and was originally dedicated to no 
fewer than nine different divinities the goddess, Ama- 
terasu (the " Heaven- Shiner," or Sun-goddess), born from 
the left eye of the Creator Izanagi, whose principal shrine is 
now at Ise, being the chief. 

The lecture of the afternoon was given to an audience of 
about six hundred, upon a topic selected by those who had 
extended the invitation. This topic was "The Necessity of 
an Improved Commercial Morality"; it was expected that 
the speaker would enforce and illustrate the thought by the 
situation at the present time in Korea, and by an appeal to 
Japanese patriotism to show their nation worthy of setting 



THE DEPARTURE 



143 



a good example, and capable of accomplishing the task of 
industrial development and political redemption in the land 
which was now so dependent upon Japan for its future. 
Mrs. Ladd also said a few words expressing her interest in 
what we had seen in the morning illustrating the education 
given to Japanese girls in Fusan, and also the hope that 
something similar might soon be possible for their Korean 
sisters. The heartiness with which these suggestions were 
received in this, the principal Japanese settlement of the 
Peninsula, shows that the better classes of settlers are honor- 
ably sensitive to the obligation to redeem the fair fame of 
their nation from the injury which it has received in the past 
at the hands of the inferior and baser elements of their own 
countrymen. 

That this determination was not beyond reasonable hope 
of speedy realization was made more evident to me by con- 
versation with the agent of the Transportation Company oper- 
ating between Shimonoseki and Fusan. A careful investiga- 
tion of its records had revealed the fact that for some months 
past about 200 Japanese passengers were, on the average, 
daily coming into Korea, and only about 150 returning from 
Korea to Japan. Of the fifty who, presumably, remained 
as settlers, about one-half chose for their home either the 
city of Fusan or the surrounding country; the other half 
went by rail inland, chiefly to Seoul and Chemulpo. There 
had also been of late an obvious change in the character and 
intention of these immigrants. Formerly, they were largely 
young fellows of the type of adventurers; but now the old 
people, and the women and children, were coming with the 
men an indication that their business was no temporary 
venture, but a purpose to remain and make homes for them- 
selves. When it is understood that these figures are ex- 
clusive of the Japanese military and civil officials, they com- 
pare very closely with the results of the census taken just 



144 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

before our departure. On taking passage from Shimonoseki 
to Fusan we had noticed that the passengers which crowded 
and overflowed the second- and third-class cabin accommo- 
dations of the steamer appeared to be very decent folk. 
Many of them had brought along, not only their luggage, but 
also their agricultural implements and mechanic's tools. 
But the subject of Japanese settlement in Korea, and its 
effect upon both countries concerned, is so important as to 
deserve further discussion of such statistics as are now 
available. 

We went on board the Iki Maru early enough to avoid the 
crowd that would come by the afternoon train from Seoul. 
After bidding good-by to the score of ladies and gentlemen 
who had come down to the wharf to see us off, there was 
time for dinner before the steamer sailed. As we watched 
the retreating shores of Korea, we remembered the morning 
of two months before when these shores had first come into 
view. It was Japanese friends who had then welcomed us 
the same friends who had just bidden us farewell. But be- 
tween the two experiences lay a busy period of work and of 
observation which had resulted in making more friends, 
Japanese and foreign, in Korea itself. But how about the 
Koreans themselves; had we won, even to the beginnings of 
real and constant friendly feeling, any among their number ? 
I was unable confidently to say. The Koreans are spoken 
of, by the missionaries especially, as notably kind and af- 
fectionate in disposition and easily attached to the foreigner 
by friendly ties. By the diplomats and business men they 
are, for the most part, distrusted and despised. As the 
guests of Marquis Ito, it was not strange that we did not 
quickly gain any assurance of genuine and trustworthy 
friendliness on their part. But this, too, is a subject which 
requires consideration from a more impersonal point of view. 
For there is something startling in the wide divergencies, and 



THE DEPARTURE 145 

even sharp antagonisms, of the estimates of Korean character 
which any serious and disinterested inquiry evokes. 

The night of May 2gth was rough, and our ship rolled con- 
siderably while crossing the straits between Korea and Japan. 
But by early morning we were in smooth water. The like- 
nesses and the contrasts of the two countries were even more 
impressive than they had been when we first landed in 
Fusan and passed on to Seoul. Soil and landscape, as un- 
modified by man, are in this part of Japan almost exactly 
similar to southern Korea. Indeed, geologically speaking, 
they are the same continent; at one time in the past they 
were doubtless physically united. But how different the two 
countries at the present time,', in respect of all the signs of 
human activity and human enterprise! Our Japanese com- 
panion explained the prosperity of this part of his native land 
as growing out of the nature of its early history. Prince 
Mori was formerly lord of all this part of Japan, nearly as 
far eastward as Hiogo. When driven by Hideyoshi to its 
western extremity, he had taken with him a large number 
of his best retainers. Their support in the two or three dis- 
tricts which he was still allowed to retain became at once a 
most difficult practical problem. But it was solved by 
stimulating the farmers and the trading classes to the highest 
possible activity in improving the natural resources, which 
were by no means unusually great in this part of Japan. 
Thus it was the men who made the country rich, and not the 
country that made the men rich. One other illustration of 
the characteristically different spirit of the two countries was 
mentioned in the same connection. At one time when 
Hideyoshi was making war upon Prince Mori, he was called 
back by a rebellion in his own rear. One of his most de- 
voted friends and adherents had been murdered by the 
rebels. Whereupon, Hideyoshi summoned his enemy, told 
him frankly the truth as to the necessity of his abandoning 



146 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

for the present his intention to deprive him of all his domin- 
ions, and suggested that the time would be opportune for 
the Prince to recover much of his lost ancestral estate. But 
Prince Mori declined to take advantage of Hideyoshi's neces- 
sity, since the latter was going, as in knightly-honor bound, 
to avenge the death of a friend. 

On coming to anchor in the harbor of Shimonoseki we 
found the superintendent of the port ready with his launch 
to convey us to the shore. After an hour at the hotel, during 
which the chief of police made an official call to pay his 
respects and give us additional assurance that we were to be 
well protected, we parked at the train, with sincere regret, 
from the Japanese friend who had so kindly arranged all 
for our comfort during our two months in Korea. 

The appearance of the country along the western end of 
the Sanyo Railway on this last day of May, 1907, fully con- 
firmed the account of the character and the policy of the men 
who, since the time of Hideyoshi, have developed it. The 
views of the sea on the right-hand side of the train cannot 
easily be surpassed anywhere in the world. On the other 
side, the fields in the valleys, and- the terraces on the hills, 
constitute one almost continuous, highly cultivated garden 
for more than one hundred miles. The tops of the mountains, 
except in a few unfavorable spots, are covered with forests of 
thickly-set and varied arborage. The comparatively damp 
climate of Japan covers with that exquisite soft haze which 
the Japanese artists appreciate so highly and reproduce so 
well, the same kind of soil and of rocks which shine out so 
bright and strong in their coloring across the straits in Korea. 

In the train, my next neighbor on my right a big German 
who smoked strong cigars incessantly, and who said that he 
had been in the Orient for forty years declared unhesitatingly 
that the people of Japan, outside of a certain portion of a 
few cities where foreign influences had operated most strongly, 



THE DEPARTURE 147 

were all savages to-day, as they were when the country was 
first opened to Western civilization. When he was reminded 
that the percentage of children in actual attendance in the 
public schools was much larger than in the United States, and 
at least equal to the most favored parts of Germany, he re- 
plied that the children were never really being taught in 
school, but always to be seen out of doors, going through 
some kind of " fanatics " or gymnastics ! It is no wonder that 
this comment elicited no reply. But the picture of the more 
than a score of thousands of eager and attentive teachers and 
students to whom I had spoken not by way of occasional, 
popular speeches, but in courses of lectures and addresses on 
serious themes left me unconvinced. Nor was the remark 
attributed to the inferior insight of his own nation, whose 
scholastic training for diplomatic service has been superior to 
that of other countries, and whose commercial education is 
fast approaching the same grade of excellence. But it was 
another lesson in the purely external and untrustworthy 
character of the prevailing knowledge of the Far East, its 
people, their excellences and their faults; and, per contra, 
of the only way reasonably to estimate and effectually to 
attain friendly relations with men in general and with Oriental 
peoples in particular. The views of the "old resident" 
missionary, diplomat, or business man as such, are of little 
or no value. This is especially true as touching the rela- 
tions of Japan and Korea. 



CHAPTER VIII 

PERSONAL REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 

BEFORE leaving Seoul I ventured to send to His Imperial 
Majesty of Korea, through one of his most intimate, de- 
voted, and consistent friends of long standing, a message 
that should embody some of my impressions regarding his 
own best interests and the essential conditions for the future 
welfare of his country. I had already frequently addressed 
his people with great plainness, relying upon an implied con- 
fidence in the sincerity of their monarch's words, spoken at 
the time of my audience at the Court. It will be remembered 
(see p. 46) that the Emperor had then said: "He was glad 
to learn I had come to instruct his people in right ways"; 
"he hoped they would open their minds to enlightenment 
and to modern ideas"; he wished "my addresses would con- 
tribute to their progress." The speaker had, therefore, not 
only royal permission but that request, which, according to 
the etiquette of this and other Eastern courts, is the equiva- 
lent of a command, when he warned his Korean audiences 
that the real prosperity of their country could not be obtained 
by intrigue and assassination, but only by cultivating the 
industries and arts, by improving education, and by regulat- 
ing their conduct according to the unchanging principles of 
a pure morality and a truly spiritual religion. Moreover, it 
should be remembered that, while Oriental monarchs are 
accustomed to think of themselves as entitled to rule without 
regard to constitutional restrictions and in defiance of control 



REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 149 

by any legal code, the Confucian ethics requires them to 
submit patiently to rebuke and exhortation, on moral grounds. 
It also exalts the position of the teacher. of practical philosophy 
(or ethics) to the highest rank in the service of the State. 
Nor had I forgotten the earnest words of the aged Japanese 
physician at a banquet held on the evening of the preceding 
nth of February, in the city of Osaka, by which the one 
hundred and fifty leading citizens assembled there were re- 
minded that, when the ancient Oriental teacher and the 
modern teacher from the West agree in the doctrine "It is 
righteousness which exalteth a nation" their agreement 
is significant of the important conclusion that the doctrine is 
true. It did not seem improper, therefore, to call his Maj- 
esty's attention to the rocks just ahead, directly for which, 
under the piloting of evil domestic and foreign counsellors, 
he was steering the ship of State. 

The message emphasized especially the following par- 
ticulars. Inasmuch as Japan had already fought one in- 
ternal and two foreign wars, at a cost of millions of treasure 
and thousands of lives, on account of the political weakness 
and misrule of Korea, it could not possibly, with a wise regard 
either for its own interests or for those of the Korean people 
themselves, allow the repetition of similarly disastrous 
events. The two nations must learn to live together in 
amity and with their common interests guarded against in- 
vasion and injury from without. History had amply shown 
that this end could not be secured under existing conditions 
by Korea alone. The most sacred obligations, not only of 
self-interest, but also of a truly wise regard for the Emperor 
and his subjects, bound the Japanese Government to estab- 
lish and maintain its protectorate over Korea. 

Further: no foreign nation, least of all my own, whose 
constitution and traditional practice forbade such a thing, 
was at all likely to intervene between Japan and Korea. 



150 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Those counsellors who had led him to hope for such inter- 
vention were deceiving him; and the money which he had 
contributed to their schemes was not simply spent in vain ; 
it was beguiled from him to his own hurt and to the great 
injury of his own people, who needed that every yen of it 
should be judiciously expended upon developing the resources 
of the country and improving their own material condition.. 

From these points of view, which had regard chiefly, or 
even solely, to the interests of the crown and the Korean 
nation, I regarded the Resident- General as Korea's best 
friend; and also if the Emperor would have it so his own 
best friend. Of Marquis Ito's sincere and intelligent in- 
terest in Korea, no one who knew him could have the slight- 
est doubt; the Emperor must see that the Marquis, as 
Resident-General, was in a position of power. To act truth- 
fully and sincerely in his relations with this powerful friend, 
and to co-operate with his endeavors at the improvement of 
the national condition, would, then, be his own best way to 
secure for his people "instruction in right ways," "the open- 
ing of their minds to enlightenment and modern ideas," and 
an effective "contribution to their progress." 

Moreover, it- must be remembered that there had been for 
centuries, and there were still, two parties in Japan, with 
reference to the proper treatment of Korea. One was the 
party which favored friendship between the two countries 
and a peaceful development of the interests so important to 
them both; the other was the party of the strong hand, which 
was always urging the immediate application of the most 
drastic measures. If it seemed desirable at any time for 
Japan to do so, the latter party was ready for subjugation of 
the country by the military and for putting it under military 
control. Marquis Ito had always been one of the foremost 
leaders of the party of peace; he had indeed risked not only 
his reputation as a far-seeing statesman, but even his per- 



REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 151 

sonal safety and his life, in . behalf of the peaceful policy. 
Let His Majesty carefully reflect upon what it would mean 
for him and for his country for the present peaceful plans of 
the Japanese Government, under the present Resident- 
General, to prove unavailing for their difficult task. 

But if His Majesty continued to fail of an appreciation of 
the real situation, if he persisted in trusting those who were 
deceiving him with vain hopes and robbing him and the nation 
of its resources and its opportunity, I had the gravest fears 
that ruin would follow for him and for his house; 'and then 
great increase of trouble for the people of the land. All this 
I wished to say to him, not at all as a politician or as a diplo- 
mat, but as a teacher of morals and an observer of human 
affairs. Nor did I speak on account of my friendship for 
Marquis Ito simply; and not at all by His Excellency's 
instigation or request. I was moved by a sincere desire to 
see Korea really prosperous and, if it might be so, to con- 
tribute in some small way to the instruction, enlightenment, 
and progress of its people. 

This message was in due time faithfully transmitted to 
the Emperor of Korea, and was listened to with attention and 
apparently with the same friendly spirit with which it was 
sent. Its reception was followed by the "sincere (?) prom- 
ise to heed its injunctions and with a protestation of respect 
and affection for Marquis Ito." This is His Majesty's habit 
when he is not excited for the moment by the passions of 
anger or fear. "In at one ear and out at the other" such 
is the description which those who have had most experience 
with this monarch testify as to the real effect upon him of 
all such advice. If any honest intention is ever really formed 
to keep the promises, to be true to the protestations and 
pledges made on such occasions, it is habitually scattered to 
the winds by the next impure breath which blows upon him. 
A master of intrigue himself (an intrigue of the Korean type 



152 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

which combines as, perhaps, nowhere else in the world the 
unmixed elements of a tenuous subtlety and a fatuous silli- 
ness), the Emperor of Korea is also the victim and willing 
subject of intriguing eunuchs, concubines, sorceresses, Yang- 
bans, and unscrupulous and unsavory foreign adventurers. 
From his point of view, his missionary physician is his spy; 
and, from the same point of view, the guest of Marquis Ito 
was, as a matter of course, suspected of being a spy in the 
one case in behalf of, in the other case against, his 'cherished 
interests. And these interests are not the welfare of his 
country, or even those more important and lasting interests 
that concern his own crown and the perpetuation of the 
royal house. They are sensuous and personal. Yet this 
complex character is truthfully described as amiable, kindly 
by preference, and ready to smile upon and give gifts to all. 
But this, too, is a problem which requires further considera- 
tion, as one of interest from the psychologist's point of view not 
only, but also and chiefly, from the point of view which regards 
the social and political relations of Japan and Korea. At the 
time my message was delivered, and even before it was sent, 
the fatal mistake of sending a Commission to The Hague 
had been made. In the case of monarchs and of nations, 
as in the case of common folk individuals and communities 
there are promises sincerely made, but made too late, and 
penitence which follows but does not anticipate and prevent 
the last fatal consequences of years of folly and of crime. 

To these results of my observations in Korea the following 
particulars should be added in this place. As has just been 
indicated, one of the strongest and most fixed impressions 
made was that of the well-nigh hopeless corruption of the 
Korean Court. Of intrigue and corruption there is doubt- 
less enough in all courts, especially in those of Oriental 
countries. Nor are these evils by any means absent from the 
political centres of Republican Governments, whether of the 



REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 153 

national or local character. But the intrigue and corruption 
of the Korean Court are of a peculiarly despicable and, in- 
deed, intolerable character. The premises in which it is 
housed at present are entirely lacking in any appearance of 
dignity; are, indeed, almost squalid. In a commonplace brick 
building were lodged the Emperor, the Crown Prince, Lady 
Om, the little Prince her son, and an innumerable number 
of court officials, court ladies, and eunuchs. The Cabinet 
Ministers in attendance during the night await the Imperial 
pleasure in a Korean house near the courtyard, in rooms 
hardly larger than horse-stalls. At times the contents of the 
cesspools, in close proximity to the main palace gates, offend 
both eyes and nose. So often as the rigorous inspection of 
the foreign lady in control of such affairs is relaxed, the filth 
in the apartments themselves begins to accumulate. Gifts 
to His Majesty, in value all the way from expensive screens 
to baskets of fruit, are appropriated by the court rabble to 
their own uses. Dishes, and even chairs, are often stolen by 
the lackeys and coolies at the Imperial garden-parties. Yet 
there is a marvellous display of gorgeous uniforms worn by 
the court functionaries; and these functionaries are nu- 
merous enough to cover all the usual bureaus, ceremonies, 
decorations, and offices really existing or imaginary, with 
the customary crowd of masters of ceremony and chamber- 
lains thought needful for the courts of the largest and 
wealthiest nations. At the time of the disbandment of the 
army, thirty generals and only ten colonels constituted the 
corps of officers in command. 

All these appointments have hitherto been dependent on 
the "gracious favor" of His Majesty and have been dispensed 
without regard to moral character or any form of fitness, or 
to the real interests of the nation. Indeed, it is no exaggera- 
tion to say that they have often been sold to those who offered 
the highest percentage of squeezes for the outstretched royal 



154 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS IT(3 

hand. To secure them, access to the ear of the Emperor is 
indispensable in most cases. Not a few of the most low- 
lived and unscrupulous of his subjects and of foreigners have 
been recipients of royal favors in this way. To quote the 
words of one who knows: "Now it was the interpreter of a 
foreign legation, now a common police spy, now a minister or 
ex-minister of State, and now some comparatively humble 
member of the Imperial entourage. The soothsayers, geo- 
mancers, and others of that ilk, were always present, and 
frequently influential in devising grotesque schemes which 
spelled profit to themselves and to other hangers-on of the 
court. But the most constant influence at court of late 
years was that exercised by some of the'^unuchs. ' Ajmong 
these, the chief eunuch Kang, was probably the most power- 
ful. He grew rich upon the perquisites of office, and would 
undoubtedly be flourishing still, had it not been for the 
famous, house-cleaning which the -court underwent some time 
ago. He then fled, and report has it (seemingly with good 
reason) that he was harbored nearly two weeks for a sub- 
stantial consideration, in the house of a foreigner connected 
in a subordinate capacity with an American business con- 
cern. When in his heyday he exercised great personal in- 
fluence with the Emperor, and there are well authenticated 
instances of cabinet ministers having bribed him in order to 
secure access to the Imperial presence." 

It should also be remembered that this state of things in the 
Court of Korea was not at all in spite of the Emperor, but 
was rather of his own choosing. Indeed, his character and 
habit of conducting his Imperial office was the principal 
effective reason for the perpetuation of such corruption. 
The signs of this stream of evil influence are by no means all 
concealed. Every day of my stay in Seoul I was witness to 
the line of jinrikishas, and the procession of pedestrians- 
many of a by no means prepossessing appearance along 



REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 155 

the lane on which stands the gate through which those seek- 
ing audience were passing in to the palace enclosure. As to 
foreigners who, in person, are introduced to the Emperor, 
the Japanese Government had then a practically efficient 
control. But for Korean subjects, and for foreigners using 
Koreans to further their schemes, there was at that time 
still abundant access. And the number of those who visited 
this "prisoner in his palace" was frequently advertised in the 
daily news as counted by scores and by hundreds. To leave 
his "prison" and go out upon the streets of Seoul otherwise 
than on those rare ceremonial occasions when everything is 
prepared beforehand, would have been for His Majesty to 
break with the etiquette of centuries. Now, however, that 
the Japanese are in much more complete control, the free- 
dom of the Emperor's movements is greatly enlarged. 

I shall not easily forget how the contrast between the new 
forces of spiritual uplift and the old forces of intellectual and 
moral degradation came over me, as I was present one Sun- 
day at the morning service of the Methodist church, which 
stands just across the way from the palace enclosure. The 
combined congregations gathered here numbered an audience 
of more than one thousand, nearly one half of which were 
children. Bishop Ross preached a short and simple sermon, 
Dr. Jones interpreting. Several of the American delegates 
to the great missionary Conference in China, on their way 
homeward, were present, surprised and rejoicing in the size 
and enthusiasm of the Korean multitude of hearers. The 
girls from one of the schools patronized by Lady Orn (whose 
true history is told in Mr. Angus Hamilton's book, and who is 
now euphemously styled the "Emperor's consort"), which 
had recently been complained of by the English edition of the 
Korean Daily News for "being used to foster allegiance to 
Japan," were singing "I surrender all to Jesus." But what 
was then being done a few yards distant, just over the palace 



156 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

wall, where were living a collection of as vulgar, ignorant, 
corrupt, and murderous men and women as were to be found 
anywhere in so-called " heathendom "? 

How the intrigue and deceitfulness, combined with weak- 
ness, of the Korean Emperor and his Korean and foreign 
friends, terminated with the commission to The Hague Peace 
Conference is now a matter of history. As such, it de- 
mands a further study in its historical origins and historical 
setting. 

The impression which I received as to the capacity and 
character of the Korean official and Yang-ban (or " gentry") 
class was, on the whole, not reassuring in regard to their real 
willingness or ability to inaugurate and support govern- 
mental and industrial reforms in Korea. It is indeed diffi- 
cult for one born and fostered under an Occidental and, 
perhaps, especially an American system of civilization 
justly to appreciate the institutions and the personal charac- 
teristics of the men of the Orient. Of this difficulty I had 
had an initial experience on my first visit to Japan fifteen 
years ago. Repeated visits to Japan, and intimate inter- 
course with Japanese of various classes, together with pains- 
taking observation of the people, had enabled me to overcome 
this difficulty to a considerable extent, so far as the Land of 
the Rising Sun is concerned. But, as has already been in- 
dicated, Old Japan was really more like Mediaeval Europe 
in many of its most essential psychological and social charac- 
teristics, than like either modern India, or China, or Korea. 
A winter spent in travel and lecturing rather widely over 
India was of more important service in coming to an under- 
standing of the upper classes in Korea. This, too, is insuffi- 
cient for a standard of comparison. With the high-caste 
Hindu a Westerner of reflective mind will, of course, have 
many intellectual interests in common. With the Korean 
Yang-ban, except in the very rarest cases, there can be no 



REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 157 

common interests of this kind. The problems of life and 
destiny, the Being of God, the constitution of the universe, 
the fundamental principles of ethics, politics, and law are of 
little concern to him. It is doubtful, indeed, whether it has 
ever dawned upon his mind that there are such questions 
worthy of patient consideration by the reflective powers. A 
few, but a few only such, at any rate, was the impression 
made upon me have a genuine, unselfish, and fairly intel- 
ligent sentiment of patriotism as distinguished from a desire 
to use office and influence for the promotion of their own self- 
interested ends. And these few even that still smaller 
number who to the sentiment of patriotism add manly 
courage, strength of purpose, and readiness to suffer are 
incapable of combining their forces so as to carry through 
in their own land any policy to secure the most imperatively 
needed reforms. After discussing this matter repeatedly 
with one of Korea's most appreciative and respected foreign 
friends, I forced him to this admission: namely, there were 
not, then, so far as he knew, two leaders of men in all Korea 
who could come together, trust each other, agree together, 
and stand together, to fight and work for the good of their 
country to the bitter end. Moreover, had it been possible to 
find two, or even twenty, such strong and trusted political 
leaders, under his late Majesty and the unpurged court of 
his rule, the reformers could not have escaped exile or as- 
sassination, so far as Majesty and Court were permitted to 
have their own way. Indeed, it was during all that spring 
only the determined purpose of the Japanese Government, 
as administered by Marquis Ito, that made possible the in- 
auguration and progress of any measure of reform. It was 
the same wise policy that stood between the Emperor and a 
fate similar to that endured by his royal consort at dawn of 
October 8, 1895. And only after his friend, the Resident- 
General, hoping for a long time against the repeated viola- 



158 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

tion of the grounds of hope, had reached the sad conclusion 
that the Emperor's " disease was incurable," and that the 
vital interests of Korea as well as of Japan demanded the 
termination of his unfortunate and disgraceful career, did 
the event take place. Even then, however, it was forced by 
his own cabinet ministers. 

As to the general character of the administration of the 
magistrates throughout the country of Korea, in the winter 
and spring of 1906 and 1907, there can be no difference of 
intelligent opinion. It was essentially the same which it had 
been for hundreds of years. With rare exceptions, which 
were liable to make the magistrate suspected and traduced 
to the Emperor and his court, the local jurisdiction in Korea 
was a system of squeezes and acts of oppression, capable of 
classification only under two important specific differences. 
These differences were, first, the marks of strength and cor- 
ruption combined with cruelty, and, second, of weakness and 
corruption without obvious cruelty. The following extracts 
from the Korean Daily News the paper which (with its 
native edition) Mr. Hulbert and Mr. Bethell, its editor, were 
employing to excite foreign and native opposition to the 
Japanese are only a small number of the items of news on 
which this impression was based: 

As a high official was passing through the streets heavily guarded, 
a number of men belonging to the chain-gang were passed. One 
of them was heard to remark that if the official were not a criminal 
himself he would not need the heavy guard, and he added that 
after his term of penal labor was over the first thing he would do 
would be to kill that official and a few more like him. These 
words were heard by all and they continued until the minister 
was out of sight. 

A man of Ma-chun (near Chemulpo) was recently arrested by 
order of the local magistrate and tortured without cause. After 
confinement and torture for a period of eight days the man ex- 



REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 159 

pired and his relatives are now asking the Supreme Court to look 
into the matter and punish the magistrate. 

A report from South Chul-la Province states that the people in 
a certain section there do not look with favor on the new tax- 
collectors; on the contrary, they say that they will tie up the 
collectors with ropes and make life hard for them. 

A Japanese report from the far Northeast says that a band of 
500 Koreans attacked the Japanese at Whang-hai-po and some 
people were wounded by the Koreans; they were repulsed by 
Japanese gendarmes from Kyung-heung. 

On Tuesday evening over 250 rioters marched down on Neung- 
chon district, broke down the telegraph poles, and attacked the 
people. The matter was reported to the police and many were 
despatched to the scene of the outbreak. The rioters, however, 
had dispersed before they could be arrested. 

We hope it is not true, as the Koreans report, that the Governor 
of Chung- ju has eaten the money which the Emperor gave for the 
relief of the sufferers from the flood there last autumn. He is 
said to have gone even further than this and compelled these 
destitute people to give their time for nothing to public works. 
This is worth looking into. 

An armed band of robbers made a raid on the road-repairing 
bureau at Chin-nampo the other day and carried away consider- 
able property. In the struggle the Japanese engineer and two 
Korean officers were severely wounded. 

It is time that serious steps were taken to put down the brigand- 
age that prevails in the country. No one's property appears to be 
safe, for we now learn that the Dongak Sa monastery in Kong Chu 
district has been rushed by robbers and pillaged of everything 
that was at all valuable. 

It must not be supposed that these instances of disturb- 
ance in the provinces are rare and selected from a long 
period of time. Indeed, fully one-half as many instances, 
illustrative of the condition of things prevalent in the country 
districts of Korea as have been given above, might have been 
taken from single issues of this morning paper. So true is. 



160 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

this that its daily column headed "Local News and Com- 
ment," called out an ironical article from the Japanese semi- 
official paper, the Seoul Press, entitled "Speak Well of Your 
Friends." In this article was the assertion: "A digest of 
its issues (i. e., of the Korean Daily News) for one month, as 
far as they relate to the Koreans, would indicate that outside 
Seoul every third Korean was a bandit, while in Seoul every 
other man was either a traitor or corrupt. This hardly ap- 
pears to be the way to establish a good reputation for the 
Koreans." One needs, however, to know only a little as to 
the proper reading between the lines, in order to discover 
that the real reason why there was a dearth of good news, 
of importance enough to print, in this anti- Japanese paper 
was this: almost all such items would have accrued to the 
credit of the Japanese Administration. Such items would, 
therefore, bring into too strong contrast, to suit these foreign 
friends of Korea, the traditional ways and results of the 
Korean Government and the already manifest effects of the 
reforms that were being carried through by the Resident- 
General and his Japanese and Korean helpers. 

The news from the country, as given by the pro- Japanese 
press did not differ from that given by this anti- Japanese 
paper from which extracts have already been made. The 
former, however, dwelt much more upon the changes for the 
better which were being accomplished, chiefly at Seoul, but 
also in other cities and even in the country districts. The 
following extracts, selected from a number of similar items, 
will show this statement to be true. Says the Seoul Press: 

A report received in the Police Adviser's Office here on Monday 
night states that a body of rioters assaulted and set on fire seven 
buildings of the District officials of Ko-syong, South Kyong-sang- 
do. The officials have all taken refuge in Chin-nampo, and two 
leaders of the rioters were arrested. The rioters, however, show 
no signs of dispersing. All foreigners and the police are said to be 



REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 161 

safe, but there were some casualties on the side of the rioters. 
According to a later report received here from Vice-Resident 
Wada at Masan, the rioters assembled numbered some 1,500. 
Grievances in connection with taxation were the immediate cause 
of the trouble. On the night of the 6th instant the mob stormed 
the office of the District Magistrate and destroyed the jail, liberat- 
ing all prisoners within. In addition, they burned down seven 
buildings of the district officials, and some people were seriously 
injured. Police Inspector Nakagawa's men, in conjunction with 
the twenty troops told off from Chin-nampo, succeeded in arrest- 
ing three rebel leaders. The District Magistrate escaped, and all 
the Japanese are safe. The disturbance has not yet been sup- 
pressed. 

Still another item from the Seoul Press narrates a similar 
experience : 

Disquietude of a somewhat serious nature is reported from 
Kim-hai, under the Fusan Residency. About six o'clock in the 
morning of the i4th inst., the Residency of Fusan received a 
message from Kim-hai to the effect that a number of Koreans 
were threatening to storm the District Office on account of some 
grievance connected with taxation. Several policemen were at 
once despatched to the scene of trouble, where they found a crowd 
of natives actively rioting. The latter broke open the prison, set 
all its inmates free and, far from yielding to the advice of the 
policemen to disperse, offered obstinate resistance. The police- 
men found the odds hopelessly great, and decided to ask for re- 
enforcements. About this time there arrived a force of our gen- 
darmes who hastened to the disturbed scene on receipt of the 
news that Mr. Lyang Hong-muk, the Magistrate of Kim-hai Dis- 
trict, had been taken prisoner by the rioters, and that our police 
force from Kui-po, having attempted to recover the Magistrate, 
were suffering from the violence of the furious mob. The mob, 
however, successfully checked the advance of the gendarmes for 
some time by the free use of cudgels and other weapons. In the 
meantime, Mr. Lyang was carried away by the mob and his where- 
abouts is still unknown, Police re-enforcements subsequently ar- 



162 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

rived, and ordered the rioters to go home, but in vain. It is 
stated that the situation is assuming a more serious aspect. A 
joint force of our gendarmes and policemen was despatched from 
Fusan early on the morning of the i5th inst. Reports conflict 
about the number of rioters, but it is believed that they are some 
400. 

All this, and similar experiences, as well as the history of 
the Korean people for two thousand years, raises the serious 
question of the possibility of a truly national redemption. 
Both before and during my visit to Seoul I was given to 
understand by foreign residents, Japanese and European, 
that the case of the nation is hopeless; their whole social and 
political system is decadent; they are an effete race, destined 
to give way before the invasion of members from any more 
vigorous race. But Marquis Ito evidently entertained no 
such view. It was the Korean nation which he desired to 
rescue and to lift up whether with, or without, the consent 
and assistance of their Emperor and his court. Of the same 
opinion with the Marquis were the missionaries. Many of 
these were extravagant in their praises of the native character- 
istics of their converts, and not only sincerely attached to 
them, but also confident of their capacity for educational ad- 
vancement and moral and social reform. To be sure, when 
asked more particularly as to what were the precise traits of 
character which encouraged these hopes and elicited this 
affection, and when reminded how almost universal had been 
the confessions, recent and still going on among the native 
Christians, of long-continued indulgence in the vices of lying, 
dishonesty, and impurity, there was no altogether satisfactory 
answer to be given. The grounds for praise were usually 
exhausted when the amiable and affectionate nature of the 
Korean had been duly emphasized. To increase my dis- 
trust of the view held by the missionaries, were the facts 
gained in conversation with others who had been witnesses 



REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 163 

to the actions of the excited Korean populace ; who had seen 
Korean officials that had offended this populace, or had been 
the object of some trumped-up charge circulated by their 
political rivals and enemies, beaten, jumped upon, smashed, 
torn limb from limb by their "gentle" and "amiable" fellow- 
countrymen. Nor were these things done in remote country- 
places, but in Seoul itself, near the Great Bell in the neighbor- 
hood of Song-do. I had also heard from the lips of Mr. Morris, 
manager of the Seoul Electric Railway, the story of how, at 
three o'clock in the morning of the night of May 27, 1900, 
he had been called out of bed and, accompanied by an escort 
of Japanese soldiers, taken to the prison near the Little West 
Gate to view the bodies of An Kyun Soo and Kwan Yung 
Chin. These were reformers who had been cajoled through 
promises of fair treatment by the smiling Emperor and his 
officials to return from exile in Japan; whereupon they had 
been foully murdered. Was one to share the "shivery feel- 
ing" with which Mr. Morris passed between the rows of in- 
struments of torture to view the red marks of the cord with 
which these patriots had been strangled; or was one to 
trust the estimate of their Christian teachers regarding 
the mild and lovable disposition of the native Koreans? 
There was also the glimpse into the smouldering fires of 
hatred and cruelty, mingled with cowardice and hypocrisy, 
which I had myself had during the visit to Pyeng-yang. And 
there were the unceasing daily items of both the pro- and the 
anti- Japanese papers, to which reference has already been 
made. Finally, there was the fact that these characteristics 
of the Korean populace were historical, and were chiefly in 
evidence among themselves, in their relations toward their 
own countrymen rather than directed toward foreigners, even 
including the Japanese. Out of this confusion of witnesses 
there slowly emerged the conclusion that the mixture of good 
and bad needed itself to be historically explained ; therefore, 



164 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS 1TO 

neither the denunciations of the one party nor the praises of 
the other could afford to the observer the sufficient reasons 
for a just judgment of the native character. It is, indeed, 
on the whole, just now rather more despicable than that of 
any other people whom I have come to know. But it is 
not necessarily beyond redemption. At any rate, here is 
another question which needs illumining in the whiter and 
broader light of history. 

The impressions gained as to the Koreans Emperor, 
Court, Yang-bans, and populace were, of course, intimately 
associated with the impressions formed as to the nature and 
efficiency of the forces chiefly at work for the reform and 
uplift of the nation. Such reforming and uplifting forces 
are undoubtedly these two : the personality of the Resident- 
General, assisted in his work by the official corps under him, 
and supported by the Government of His Imperial Majesty 
of Japan; and the Christian missionaries. What impres- 
sions, then, seemed warranted by my observations as to the 
soundness and efficacy of these two forces ? 

As to the sincerity of Marquis Ito in his self-sacrificing 
and arduous task of effecting a reformed condition, indus- 
trially and politically, of the Korean nation, no shadow of 
doubt ever arose in my own mind. But this is a relatively 
small and unimportant thing to say. It is more instructive 
as to the truth to notice that his sincerity was, so far as I am 
aware, never questioned by any one, not even by those most 
hostile to his policy, except in an obviously ignorant and 
hypocritical way. The extreme military party of Japan, the 
advocates of the "strong hand and of immediate forcible 
annexation, as well as anti- Japanese missionaries and other 
foreigners, and even that Korean officialdom which always 
has so much difficulty in believing that any one in office 
can be sincere all these, as soon as ignorant prejudice be- 
came but partially enlightened, ceased to bring the charge of 



REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 165 

self-seeking and deceit against the Resident-General. For 
he had unmistakably affirmed, both privately and publicly, 
to his own countrymen, to the Koreans, and to the world, 
that it was his intention to do all that in his power lay for 
the betterment of the condition of the Korean people them- 
selves. When His Korean Majesty, who had not only re- 
peatedly violated his most solemn treaty obligations, but had 
also, with frequent prevarications, falsehoods, and treachery, 
broken his equally solemn promises to the man who was 
far more unselfishly interested in the welfare of Korea than 
was its ruler, involved himself in sore trouble, he, too, turned 
to the Marquis Ito for advice and help. That even the in- 
sincere Korean Emperor and his corrupt Court believed in 
the sincerity of the Resident- General I have abundant reason 
to know. 

It was not the sincerity of Marquis Ito, however, which 
made most impression upon the leading people of Seoul; it 
was rather the qualities of patience, pity, and gentleness. 
Such are, indeed, not usually the mental attitudes of the diplo- 
mat or politician toward those who are intriguing, or other- 
wise actively endeavoring to defeat his cherished plans. It 
should not be forgotten that less than a year before, during 
the absence of the Resident- General, a plot had been formed 
which involved his assassination ; and that this plot had been 
traced to those who had the entree of the Palace, in despite 
of their well-known bad character, and some of whom were 
thereognized Korean associates of the men whose "services" 
to the Korean Emperor terminated in the commission to the 
Peace Conference at The Hague. Of those Korean officials 
who were most opposed to the Japanese Protectorate, the 
Marquis was ready to say that he sympathized with them in 
their desire for the perfect independence of their country; nor 
did he blame them for their struggles to bring about this result 
so long as their way was free from lying, robbery, and mur- 



i66 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

der. But the witness of history he regarded as unimpeach- 
able proof of the incapacity of the Korean ruling classes to 
lift up, or to rule well their own country; unaided, they could 
never effect the reformation of existing industrial and social 
evils. Japan, the Far East, and the interests of the civilized 
world forbade their being longer permitted to disturb the 
peaceful relations of foreign nations. In this connection 
the Marquis once spoke of the difficulty which he experienced 
in preventing his own countrymen from themselves degener- 
ating in character under the morally depressing influences of 
Korea. These influences had, in his judgment, been more 
or less effective in the case of most foreigners diplomats and 
missionaries included who had lived for a long time in 
Seoul. "I tell them," said he, "you must not become 
Koreans; you are here to raise the Koreans up, and you 
cannot do this if you sink down to their level." At a small 
dinner party, at the house of one of the foreign consuls, the 
Resident- General spoke more freely than is his custom about 
his own early life, his observations during his several trips 
abroad in America, Europe, and Russia, and the ideals 
which had guided his official career. In this connection, 
with reference to his present work in Korea, he referred to 
the expressions of surprise from some of his foreign col- 
leagues, that he could endure so calmly the ways of the 
Koreans toward him and toward his administrative efforts; 
but "in truth," he added, "I have no feelings of anger 
toward these people; they are so ignorant, they have been 
so long deprived of all honest and enlightened government, 
they are so poor and miserable, I am not angry with them. I 
pity them." 

It will doubtless seem a strange reversal of what many in 
the United States and elsewhere have been led to believe was 
true and certainly it is a strange reversal of what ought 
to have been true when I say that the patience and sym- 



REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 167 

pathy of Marquis Ito in his relations with the foreign Chris- 
tian workers in Korea was a surprise to me. The behavior 
of some of the missionaries and men prominent in the circle 
of the Young Men's Christian Association, which was in 
receipt of a subsidy from the Japanese Government, had been 
trying indeed. That their professed Korean converts and 
adherents had used the name of Christian and the Christian 
organizations for selfish political purposes could not have been 
wholly avoided . Even the threats of legal proceedings had been 
unable to prevent this. But that injudicious reports of wrongs, 
either exaggerated or wholly false, should be sent by private 
and public letters to the "home country," while the requests of 
the Resident-General to learn of these wrongs and to have the 
opportunity to correct them remained wholly unheeded, con- 
stituted a trial to patience which, I am of the opinion, few 
men in his position would have borne so well. Emphasis was 
given to this by the fact that some of the most violent and 
false accusations against the Japanese Government in Seoul 
were made in papers and books published by authors who 
were known to be on terms of friendship with foreign relig- 
ious agencies. Even certain paid attorneys of the Imperial 
intrigues against the Resident- General were of this connection. 
To all this it should be added that His Excellency was being 
severely (although by no means fairly) criticized in his own 
country for his "excessive" patience toward these teachers 
of a foreign religion. Excited by the reports which were 
coming from the United States (see p. 62), one of the re- 
spectable Japanese papers of Tokyo (the Yomiuri, in its 
issue of May 6th) had found it "necessary to examine the 
past conduct of the American missionaries in Korea." It ex- 
pressed profound admiration "for the personality of the 
Founder of Christianity and high respect for the enthusiasm 
and devotion of his followers." But as for those who, 
"wearing the mask of missionaries . . . pander to the native 



i68 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

prejudices . . . and endeavor to thwart our policy by dis- 
seminating baseless rumors and mischievous insinuations, 
there ought to be no hesitation to deport them out of the coun- 
try." "Marquis Ito, as a friend of peace and liberty, has 
already shown more than sufficient conciliation and patience." 

The story of the better way which Marquis Ito steadily 
followed, with its unwavering policy of conciliation and pa- 
tience, and of its success so far as the majority of the more rep- 
resentative and influential of the missionary body is concerned, 
has already been told in part. For the small number who still 
refuse to respond to this policy, it is, of course, not deporta- 
tion by the Japanese Government, but counsel and rebuke 
from their employers at home, which is the proper remedy. 
But the impressions of the visitor, who had full measure of 
the confidence of the leader of one of these two parties who 
are working for the redemption of Korea, and some good 
measure of the confidence of certain leaders of the other 
party, can be given in no other way so well as by quoting 
the following words from one of their number: 

"From the Peninsula," said Dr. George Heber Jones, in 
an address to the First General Conference of the Methodist 
Church in Japan, "we watch with intense interest the de- 
velopment in Japan; for Providence has bound up together 
the destinies of the two nations. Nationally, a new life opens 
up before Korea. Japan has sent her veteran statesman to 
advise and guide Korea, the man to whom in the largest sense 
Japan owes so much the most conspicuous statesman in 
Asia to-day, Marquis Ito. Plans for the reform of the 
Government, codification of the laws, development of the 
industry and business of the people, and extension of educa- 
tion, have been formulated, and in a comparatively short 
time most promising results achieved. In spite of difficulties 
which necessarily for the present encumber the situation, 
the outlook is most hopeful. As a church in Korea we de- 



REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 169 

liberately stand aloof from all politics, but find our work, as 
it relates to the production of strong . character, of honest, 
upright, true men, most intimately related to the regeneration 
of the nation. The coming ten years promise to be the most 
eventful in the history of Korea." 

At a tea-party, given in the gardens of Dr. and Mrs. 
Scranton, at Seoul, where Bishop Cranston, Bishop Harris, 
Dr. Leonard and Dr. Goucher, were among the non-resident 
guests, Marquis Ito was present; having arrived somewhat 
earlier than the appointed hour. After greeting the ladies 
and gentlemen present, the Marquis spoke as follows: 

I wish to take this opportunity of saying a few words to you. 
I beg you, however, not to expect that I shall say anything new 
or striking. I only mean to repeat to you what I have been saying 
to the Japanese and the Koreans. If my words are not new or 
striking, I may at least assure you that what I am going to say 
comes from my heart, and represents just what I feel and think. 
As the official representative of Japan in this country, my prin- 
cipal duty consists in guiding and assisting Korea in her efforts 
at improvement and progress. I entertain deep sympathy with 
the people of this country; and it is my earnest ambition to help 
in saving them from the unfortunate state in which they now find 
themselves. You, ladies and gentlemen, are also here for serving 
and saving the Koreans. The only difference is that, while I seek 
to serve them through political and administrative channels, you 
work for the same end by means of religious influences. We 
thus stand on common ground, we are working for a common 
object. You will therefore believe me when I assure you that I 
always take the most sympathetic interest in your noble work, 
and that I am ever ready to co-operate with you, in so far as my 
duties permit, in your efforts to further the moral and intellectual 
elevation of this people. On the other hand, I feel confident that 
I may rely upon a similar attitude on your part toward my en- 
deavors for the benefit of the Koreans. As to the political rela- 
tions between Japan and Korea, it would be too long and tedious 



170 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

to refer to the past; it is a long history. It is sufficient for my 
present purpose to say that the two countries are so situated 
toward each other that their destinies are bound together in the 
closest manner. To maintain undisturbed the close mutual rela- 
tions which fate has ordained for the two countries, is the object 
for which Japan is in this country; beyond that she has no other 
object. As you know very well, Korea can hardly be called an 
organized state in the modern sense. I am trying to make it 
such. Whether, or how far, I may be able to realize my object 
in this work of political regeneration, as also in the task of im- 
proving the general lot of the people, God alone knows. All that 
I can say to you is that I shall do my best for the successful real- 
ization of my mission. I may be permitted to refer to a matter 
in which you can do much good for Koreans. I dare say that 
among the many thousands of Japanese in this country, there are 
some who disgrace their nation by misconduct toward Koreans; 
but you may rest assured that these wrong-doers find in me the 
most uncompromising enemy. I may also say that wrong-doing 
is not confined to the Japanese; there are similar offenders among 
the Koreans too. While I am taking unsparing pains to repress 
wrong-doing among the Japanese, I rely upon you for your hearty 
co-operation to the same end among the Koreans, in so far as it lies 
in your power as their religious teachers and leaders. 

But the wisdom and firmness of the Resident- General were 
no less impressive than were the qualities of patience and 
gentleness. To the student of Korean affairs, of the more 
recently past and the present relations of the Japanese to the 
Koreans, it soon becomes patent what is chiefly needed in 
order to mend the former and to improve the latter. It is 
first of all the impartial administration of justice, in the way 
of righting wrongs, so far as this is possible, and of securing 
the rights of life, liberty, and property; then comes the 
fostering of education in the industries and arts, and the 
progressive elevation of the moral and religious condition 
of the people. At the time of my visit there were number- 



REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 171 

less claims pending of fraud and violence not so much of 
recent occurrence as acts of some months or years old on 
the part of Koreans against Koreans, and of Japanese and 
Koreans against each other. Land had been seized and 
stolen outright, or fraudulently obtained by forged deeds or 
under false titles. Foreign promoters were clamoring over 
privileges and concessions, which were either purchased with 
some show of fairness or obtained from His Majesty, or from 
some subject, by partnership with the crowd of Korean 
official "squeezers." The weaker race it was claimed 
was oppressed, insulted, beaten, or rudely pushed around 
not now by their own officials or by Chinese or Russians, 
but by a people whose superiority of any sort it humiliated 
their traditional pride even grudgingly to admit. The 
ability of the most honest and capable local magistrate, 
whether Japanese or Korean, to discover the truth and to do 
any measure of justice was greatly hampered and, indeed, 
made almost practically unavailing by the differences in the 
two languages and by the fact that the interpreters them- 
selves could, for the most part, in no respect be thoroughly 
trusted. It was, indeed, a favorite trick with the average 
Korean interpreter to hire out to one of his own countrymen 
who had a case against some Japanese, and then to betray 
his client for a bribe from the other side, by misstating or 
falsifying his client's cause. And, under such circumstances, 
what could any magistrate do who understood only one of 
the two languages? Moreover, according to the testimony 
of Mr. D. W. Stevens, who had made careful examination 
into scores of such complaints, it was an extremely rare thing 
for a Korean, even when he had a perfectly good case, to 
refrain from mixing a large measure of exaggeration and 
falsehood with his truth-telling; nor was it easy to find any 
considerable crime of fraud committed against a Korean 
by a Japanese without uncovering a Korean partner to the 



172 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

base transaction. So crafty are the Koreans that, in most 
cases of such partnership, it is not the foreign member of 
the firm who gets the larger share of the dividends resulting. 
All these impressions as to what was most imperatively 
needed for the emergencies that were daily arising I was 
encouraged to mention to the Resident-General at any of our 
several interviews. It was, of course, desirable first of all to 
prevent the continuance of the evils which had been, both in 
Korea and abroad, charged against his own nationals in their 
treatment ol" the Koreans. Inquiry and observation com- 
bined to confirm the opinion that this was already being 
accomplished. At that time, however, most of the riots in 
the country districts did not appear to indicate feelings of 
hatred on the part of the natives toward "foreign oppressors"; 
they were only the customary expression of lawless resistance 
to a condition of wretchedness and misrule that was of native 
origin and indefinitely long-standing. No important acts of 
violence on the part of Japanese toward Koreans came under 
my observation, and none of recent occurrence were credibly 
reported. Even of those petty deeds of rudeness and in- 
civility, which exasperate hostile feeling far beyond their real 
significance, I saw comparatively few. There was some 
rather contemptuous treatment of the Korean crowd at the 
gates of the railway stations and on the platforms of the 
trains; but the Koreans are themselves exceedingly stupid 
and ready to crowd others; and the handling given them by 
the Japanese officials was in no case so rough as that which 
the proudest American citizen is liable to receive at the 
Brooklyn Bridge or on the Fourth Avenue street-cars. Once, 
indeed, my jinrikisha-man, after he had several times warned, 
by his outcry, a Korean gentleman who was occupying the 
middle of the street with that dignified and slow-moving pace 
so characteristic of the idle Yang-ban, in order to avoid 
knocking the pedestrian down with his vehicle, gave him a 



REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 173 

somewhat ungentle push to one side. The Korean fell for- 
ward, after the manner of a boy's tin soldier before a marble. 
His crinoline hat rolled off his head, but alighted a short 
distance away. At first I was alarmed lest he might be in- 
jured, and was about to order the offending kurumaya to 
stop his running that I might offer my assistance. But when 
it appeared that neither the victim of this scarcely avoidable 
rudeness, nor his hat, was injured, and that no one, including 
the man himself, seemed to consider the incident worth no- 
ticing, I decided not to emphasize it further. Undoubtedly, 
this would not have happened with a Japanese child or 
woman in the adult Korean's place; it might easily have 
happened, however, in the streets of Tokyo or Kyoto if the 
pedestrian had been a man of obviously inferior rank. 

In brief, it was the uniform testimony of those who had 
been in Korea during the troublous times which followed the 
war with Russia that, under Marquis Ito's administration, 
Japanese wrong-doers were being sought out and restrained 
or punished, and that deeds of violence and even of rudeness 
were becoming rarer with every month of his stay. 

Other measures which seemed to me desirable to have put 
in operation were such as the following: a civil-service ex- 
amination which should provide that every official, Korean or 
Japanese, whose duties brought him into intimate daily rela- 
tions with both peoples, should have a working knowledge of 
both languages; the organizing of a body of authorized inter- 
preters, whose honesty and ability to discharge this very 
delicate and important function of oral or written interpreta- 
tion, in all legal causes and matters of Government business, 
should be guaranteed, the speedy and even spectacular de- 
monstration of the Government's intention to give to the 
Korean common people strict justice in all their valid com- 
plaints against the Japanese; the improvement of the char- 
acter of the Japanese civil service and of the Japanese police 



174 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

and petty officers of every kind; and some kind of arrange- 
ment between the missionary schools and the schools under 
the control of both the Korean and the Japanese authorities, 
by which uniformity might be attained in the primary educa- 
tion, and, in the higher stages, the mistakes made by the 
British Government in India might be avoided. These mis- 
takes have resulted in educating a crowd of native "babus" 
who are both unwilling and unfit for most kinds of service- 
able employment in the real interests of their own nation's 
development. As to this last matter, the statement may be 
repeated that not a small proportion of the Koreans educated 
abroad or in the missionary schools, with an almost purely 
literary education, have turned out either useless, or posi- 
tively mischievous, when the practical reform and redemption 
of their own country is to be undertaken and enforced. For 
if there is any one thing which the average educated Korean 
Yang-ban will not do, that thing is hard and steady useful 
work. 

None of these measures it was soon made obvious were 
to be overlooked or neglected in the large and generous plans 
of the Resident-General for the reform and uplift of Korea. 
Time, however, was needed for them all; they all required a 
supply of helpers, to train which time was required. And 
who that knows the lives of the great benefactors of mankind, 
or is versed in the most significant facts and obvious truths 
of history, does not recognize the evil clamor of the press, of 
the politicians, and of the crowd, to have that done all at once 
which cannot possibly be done without the help of time. The 
whole explanation of the delay is best summed-up in the 
pregnant sentence already quoted from one of Marquis Ito's 
public addresses, which was evidently designed as a declara- 
tion of settled policy on his part. "As you know very well," 
said he, "Korea can hardly be called an organized state in 
the modern sense; I am trying to make it such." But as he 



REMINISCENCES AND IMPRESSIONS 175 

explained to me more in detail: "I have been at work on 
these difficult problems only one short year, interrupted by 
visits to Japan, because my own Emperor required my 
presence; and the first half of this year was almost entirely 
occupied with such physical improvements as various en- 
gineering schemes, provision for hospi als, roads, and similar 
matters. There has never been any such thing as Korean 
law, under which justice can be administered impartially. 
But, according to the constitution of Japan, no Japanese sub- 
ject of His Imperial Majesty, as well as no other foreigners 
resident in Korea, can be deprived of property, or of liberty, 
otherwise than by due process of law. Nor is my relation to 
the administration of justice in Korea like that of the British 
magistrate in British India. With Korean affairs, purely 
internal, when the attempt is made to settle them in Korean 
fashion, I have no right, under the treaty, to interfere. And 
the Koreans, when they could resort to legal measures for 
settling their disputes, ordinarily will not do so; they prefer 
to resort to the ancient illegal practice of running to some 
Korean Court official and bribing him to use influence on 
their side. As for Korean judges who can be trusted to do 
justice, there 15 scarcely any raw material even for such 
judges to be found. A carefully selected number of jurists, 
with a large force of clerks, has, however, been brought from 
Japan; and they are diligently at work trying to devise a 
written code under which the ancient customs and common 
laws of Korea, as representing its best efforts to enact and 
establish justice, shall be made available for future use." 

Meantime, as we have already seen, the Resident-General 
was being opposed and, as far as possible, thwarted, in every 
effort to improve the civil service and judicial administration 
of Korea, by the corrupt Korean Court, with its mob of 
eunuchs, palace women, sorceresses, etc., and by nearly all 
the native officials and Yang-bans in places of influence and 



176 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

power. And the chief seal 0} corruption and of opposition to 
genuine^ effective reform was the smiling and amiable Korean 
Emperor himself. How effectively, because wisely and firmly, 
Marquis Ito initiated and advanced these reform measures 
will receive its proof, so far as proof is at present possible, by 
examination of results recorded in official and other trust- 
worthy reports. To the facts already narrated, on which my 
personal impression of these qualities was based, many others 
of even a more convincing character might easily be added. 

Of the feelings of admiration and friendship which grew 
during these weeks of somewhat confidential relations, on 
the part of the guest toward his host, it would not be fitting 
to speak with any detail. But in closing the more exclusively 
personal part of my narrative I might quote the words of one 
of the Consuls- General residing in Seoul. This diplomat 
expressed his feeling toward the Marquis Ito as one of venera- 
tion, beyond that which he had ever felt for any but a very 
few of the men whom he had met in his official career. 

After all, however, personal impressions, no matter how 
favorable to truth the conditions under which they are de- 
rived, are not of themselves satisfactory in answer to ques- 
tions so grave and so complicated as those which encompass 
the existing relations between Japan and Korea. Such im- 
pressions must be subjected to the severer tests, the more 
comprehensive considerations, the profounder sanctions, of 
history and of statistics. For this reason I now pass on to 
the much more difficult task of reviewing in the light of these 
tests, considerations, and sanctions, the impressions of my 
visit to Korea in 1907, as the guest of Marquis Ito, 



PART II 

A CRITICAL AND HISTORICAL INQUIRY 



PART II 

CHAPTER IX 
THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 

AN authentic and trustworthy history of Korea has never 
been written; and enormous difficulties await the investigator 
who, in the future, attempts this task. The native records, 
almost down to the present time, consist of the same un- 
critical mixture of legend, fable, oral tradition, and un- 
verified written narrative which characterizes the earliest so- 
called histories of all civilized peoples. But the Korean 
civilization has not as yet produced any writer both am- 
bitious and able to treat this material in a way corresponding 
to the opportunity it affords. All the narratives of events, 
except those of the most recent date, which have been written 
by foreigners, have, of necessity, been lacking in that intimate 
acquaintance with the Korean language, institutions, cus- 
toms, and the temperament and spirit of the people, which is 
the indispensable equipment of the historian. The an- 
tiquities and other physical records of an historical character 
have, moreover, never to any considerable extent been ex- 
plored. A striking example of this general truth was af- 
forded only a short time ago when Dr. George Heber Jones 
discovered the fact that a wrong date (by a whole century) 
had been given for the casting of the Great Bell at Chong-no 
one of the most conspicuous public objects of interest in 
Seoul; yet the correct date was inscribed on the bell itself! 



i8o IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

The reason for this petty falsifying of historical fact was 
characteristically Korean; it was in order that the honor of 
casting the bell might be ascribed to the Founder of the 
present Dynasty. 

In spite of these facts, however, the main outlines of the 
development of Korea are unmistakable. Its history has 
been, for the ruling classes, one long, monotonous, almost 
unbroken record of misrule and misfortune; and for the 
people an experience of poverty, oppression, and the shedding 
of blood. That they have endured at all as the semblance 
of a nation, although not "as an organized state in the mod- 
ern sense," has been due chiefly to these two causes: first, to 
a certain native quality of passive resistance, varied by 
periods of frenzied uprising against both native and foreign 
oppressors; and, second, to the fact that the difficulties 
encountered in getting over mountains and sea, in order to 
maintain a foreign rule long enough to accomplish these 
ends, have prevented their stronger neighbors on all sides 
from thoroughly subjugating and absorbing them. This 
latter reason may be stated in another way: it has hitherto 
never been worth the cost to terminate the independent 
existence of the Korean nation. 

Nor is it difficult to learn from authentic sources the two 
most potent reasons for the unfortunate and evil state through- 
out their history of the Korean people. These reasons are, 
on the one hand, the physical results of repeated invasions 
from the outside; and, on the other hand, the adoption and 
perpetuation, in a yet more mischievous and degraded fashion, 
of the civil and official corruptions received from Korea's 
ancient suzerain, China. It is customary to attach great 
importance, both as respects the damage done to the ma- 
terial interests of the country, and also as accounting for the 
Korean hatred of the Japanese, to the invasion of Hide- 
yoshi. But the undoubted facts do not bear out this con- 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 181 

tention. The lasting effects of this incoming of foreign 
armed forces from the south, and of their short-lived and 
partial occupation of Korean territory, were relatively un- 
important. None of the institutions of Korea were changed ; 
none of her physical resources were largely depleted. It was 
just those places in which the Japanese remained in the most 
intimate relations with the Koreans, where there was least 
permanent development of race hatred. But the results of 
the successive invasions from the north and northwest, by 
the wild tribes, by the Mongols, and by the Chinese and 
Manchu dynasties, were much more injurious in every way 
to the physical well-being of the peninsula. 

It is one of the most remarkable contrasts between Japan 
and Korea that, whereas the more distinctly moral ele- 
ments of Confucianism moulded a noble and knightly type 
of character in the former country, in its neighbor the doc- 
trines of the great Oriental teacher chiefly resulted in forming 
the average official into a more self-conceited but really cor- 
rupt and mischievous personality. Indeed, the baleful influ- 
ence of China, especially since the establishment of the 
Manchu dynasty, has been the principal hindrance to the 
industrial and civic development of Korea. The contribu- 
tion made to its civilization by Chinese letters, inventions, 
and arts, has been no adequate compensation for the de- 
pressing and debasing character of the imported political and 
social system. The official institutions and practices of the 
suzerain have for centuries been bad enough at home; but 
here they have been even worse, whether admiringly copied 
or enforced by the influence of its Court and the power of its 
army. And, whereas the great multitude of the Chinese 
people have displayed for a long time the inherent power of 
industrial self-development and of successful business inter- 
course with foreigners, the Koreans have thus far been rela- 
tively lacking in the qualities essential for every kind of 



182 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

material and governmental success. Thus all the civiliza- 
tion of Korea has been so characterized by weakness and 
corruption as to excite contempt as well as disapprobation 
from the moralist's and the economist's points of view. It 
is China and not Japan which through some 2,000 years of 
past history has been the expensive and bloody enemy, and 
the political seducer and corrupter of Korea. 

The division of the history of Korea, made by Mr. Homer 
B. Hulbert, into ancient and modern the latter period be- 
ginning in 1392, with the founding of the present dynasty 
is entirely without warrant. "Modern history" can scarcely 
be said to have begun in the so-called " Hermit Kingdom" 
previous to the time when a treaty was concluded between 
Japan and Korea by General Kuroda, acting as Plenipoten- 
tiary, on February 26, 1876. Even then, the first Korean 
Embassy under the new regime, having arrived at Yokohama 
by a Japanese steamer on the following May 2gth, when it 
started back to Korea a month later, refused all overtures of 
Western foreigners to communicate with their country. 
From the time when the present kingdom arose by the union 
of the three previously existing kingdoms, the doings of the 
Korean Court and of the Korean people have been substan- 
tially the same. When threatened by foreign invaders or by 
popular uprisings and official rebellion at home, the Court 
a motley crowd or mob, of King, palace officials, eunuchs, 
concubines, blind men, sorceresses, and other similar re- 
tainers of the palace has, as a rule, precipitately fled to 
some place of refuge, deserted by efficient military escort and 
in most miserable plight. Only when behind walls and com- 
pelled to fight, or when aroused to a blind fury in the form of 
a mob, does the average Korean show the courage necessary 
to defend or to avenge his monarch. The saying of the 
Japanese that "the Koreans are kittens in the field and tigers 
in the fortress" characterized their behavior during the 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 183 

Hideyoshi invasion; it is characteristic of them to-day. 
Three centuries ago, when the king was in flight from Seoul 
to Pyeng-yang his own attendants stole his food and left him 
hungry; and the Korean populace, left behind in Seoul rose 
at once and burned and looted what the Court had not carried 
away. " Before many days had elapsed the people found out 
that the coming of the Japanese did not mean universal 
slaughter, as they had supposed, and gradually they returned 
to their lands in the city. They reopened their shops, and 
as long as they attended to their own affairs they were un- 
molested by the Japanese. Indeed, they adapted themselves 
readily to the new order of things, and drove a lucrative trade 
with the invaders"! 1 In these respects, too, the voice of 
Korean history is a witness with a monotone; as it was in 
1592 and earlier, so it has been down to the present time. 

In one other most important respect there has been little 
variation in the records of Korean history. Brave, loyal, and 
good men, when they have arisen to serve their monarch and 
their country, have never been permitted to flourish on 
Korean soil. The braver, more loyal and unselfish they have 
been, the more difficult has the path to the success of their 
endeavors been made by a corrupt Court and an ignorant 
and ungrateful populace. Almost without exception such 
men rare enough at the best in Korean history have been 
traduced by their enemies and deserted and degraded by their 
king. During the Hideyoshi invasion the most worthy leader 
of the Korean forces by land was General Kim Tuk-nyung. 
It is said that the Christian Japanese General Konishi had 
so high an opinion of General Kim that he had a portrait of 
him made, and on seeing it exclaimed: "This man is indeed 
a general." But, on account of Kim's success, his enemies 
maligned him; the king had him arrested, brought to Seoul, 
and, after a disgraceful trial, executed. In all Korea's his- 

1 Hulbert, The History of Korea, I, p. 368. 



i8 4 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

tory there has never been another man to whom the nation 
has owed so much for his courage, devotion, and genius in 
affairs of war as to Admiral Yi. It was he, more than all 
others king, officers, and common soldiers who accom- 
plished the final ill-success of the Japanese invasion. It was 
Admiral Yi who destroyed all chance of re-enforcing the 
Japanese army in Seoul, and who thus actually did what the 
Russian fleet in the recent war could not begin to do. But 
this great patriot and successful leader, under the same bale- 
ful influences, was degraded to the rank of a common soldier 
and barely escaped with his life. Quite uniformly such has 
been the fate of the true partiots and best leaders during all 
Korea's history, and this just because they were true and of 
the best. Such would to-day be the fate of the saving ele- 
ments left in Korean official circles if the hand of Japan were 
withdrawn. Indeed, as we have already seen, the most 
difficult part of the Resident-General's problem is to cultivate 
and to protect Korean leaders of a trustworthy character. 
It is Korea's national characteristic to "stone her prophets"; 
but few of them have had "whited sepulchres" built to 
them by future generations. 

The more ancient relations of Japan and Korea were such 
as are common to people who inhabit contiguous lands at 
the corresponding stage of civilization. "As to the relations 
between the two nations," says Brinkley, 1 "they were limited 
for a long time to mutual raids." On the one side, the Japanese 
could complain that, in the first century B.C., when a pestilence 
had reduced their forces, Korean freebooters invaded Kiu- 
shiu and settled themselves in the desolated hamlets of the 
Japanese; that the Koreans lent assistance to the semi- 
savage aborigines of the same island and to the Mongol in- 
vaders; and that their citizens who wished to enter into 
friendly relations of commerce with the neighboring peninsula 

1 Japan, I, p. 69 /. 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 185 

were treated with scorn and even with violence. On the other 
side, there was valid ground for the charge that Japanese 
pirates, either alone or in conjunction with Chinese, often in- 
vaded the coasts of Korea; and that Japanese traders by no 
means always conducted themselves in a manner to win the 
confidence and friendship of the inhabitants of the peninsula. 

The earlier trade relations between Japan and Korea were 
irregular and by no means always satisfactory to either party. 
The wardens of the island of Tsushima, which is by its very 
position a sort of natural mediating territory between the two 
countries the So family had virtual control of the legiti- 
mate commerce. They issued permits for fifty ships which 
passed annually from ports in Japan to the three Japanese 
settlements in the peninsula. These Japanese traders and 
the Korean officials behaved toward each other in so objec- 
tionable fashion that a revolt of the settlers in Fusan arose 
in 1610, in the effort to suppress which the Koreans were at 
first defeated ; but afterward, being re-enforced strongly from 
Seoul, they compelled the settlers to retire from all the three 
settlements; and thus for the time being the trade' between 
Japan and Korea came to an end. When, later, the Sho- 
gunate Government complied with the demand of the Korean 
Government that the ringleaders of this disturbance should 
be decapitated and their heads sent to Seoul, the trade was 
re-established. But it did not attain its previous propor- 
tions; it was limited to twenty-five vessels annually, and the 
settlements were abandoned. Similar troubles recurred some 
thirty years later. The Shogun of that period, too, caused 
the offenders to be arrested and handed over to the Korean 
authorities; but the Court at Seoul continued its refusal to 
allow the commerce with the Japanese to be expanded. 

The amount of contribution made by Korea to the civi- 
lization of Japan in those earlier days has probably been 
somewhat exaggerated. Both these countries are chiefly in- 



186 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

debted to China for the elements of the arts and of letters, 
and for most of the other refinements of their culture; these 
came to Japan, however, to a considerable extent through 
Korea. According to the records of the Japanese themselves, 
in the century before the Christian era Chinese scholars came 
to Satsuma through Korea, Tsushima, and the intervening 
islands. At about the same time Koreans also brought Chi- 
nese civilization to Japan. 1 During the reign of the Em- 
peror Kimmei (555 A.D.), according to Japanese tradition, 
the king of Kudara in Korea sent to Japan an envoy bearing 
an image of Buddha and a copy of the Sutras. But while the 
Minister-President was experimenting with its worship, the 
occurrence of a pestilence proved that the ancestral deities 
were angry at the intrusion of a foreign form of worship. 2 
After the "subjugation of the three kingdoms of Korea a 
number of Chinese and Koreans came to settle in Japan. In 
order to avert confusion in family names and titles which 
might have arisen from this cause, an investigation of family 
names was made in the i43oth year after the Emperor Jimmu 
(about A.D. 770)." It will thus be seen that there are prob- 
ably in both countries families which have in their veins the 
mingled blood of both races. 

Relations tending to exasperate the feeling of each country 
against the other continued through the centuries which con- 
stituted the Middle Ages in Europe. In Japan the feudal 
system was approaching its more elaborate and powerful 
development; in Korea the weakness and corruption of the 
Court, the ignorance, suffering from oppression, and lawless- 
ness of the people were not improving. Thus the two na- 
tions were drawing further and further apart and were fol- 
lowing the paths which have led to such a wide divergence 

1 See The History of the Empire oj Japan, (volume prepared for the 
World's Columbian Exposition at Chicago,- 1903), p. 38 /. 

2 Ibid., p. 47. 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 187 

in the now existing conditions mentally, politically, and 
socially. The various embassies sent by Kublai Khan to 
Japan during the years of 1268-1274^.0. came via Korea 
and were accompanied by Korean officials. The attempted 
Mongol invasions of Japan were assisted by Korea. On the 
other hand, the peninsula continued to suffer from the at- 
tacks of Japanese pirates. The inhabitants of the Southwest 
coasts of Japan made raids upon the opposite coasts, engag- 
ing in open conflict with the Korean troops, killing their 
generals, destroying their barracks, and carrying away as 
plunder, horses, ships, and stores of grain. In these en- 
counters the soldiers of Korea showed their traditional lack 
of courage in the field, frequently retreating before the 
Japanese raiders without striking a single blow. Frequent 
envoys were sent from Korea to remonstrate and demand 
reparation; and one of these took back with him (1377 A.D.) 
several hundred Koreans who had been made prisoners by 
the Japanese pirates, but were returned to their own country 
by Imagawa Sadayo, Governor of Kiushiu. No really 
effective measures to stop piracy were, however, taken by the 
Japanese Government until the time of the ex-Shogun Yoshi- 
mitsu, who on several occasions had the pirates arrested and 
handed over to China, the suzerain of Korea. For later on 
the Japanese pirates associated themselves with Chinese 
pirates and pursued their business of plunder quite impar- 
tially as against either Koreans or Chinese. When the 
Koreans took reprisals upon those inhabitants of Tsushima 
who were residing in the southern part of their land, the 
people of that island made an attack upon Fusan and de- 
stroyed its fortifications (1510 A.D.). 

The first notable conflict between Korea and Japan was 
the invasion of Hideyoshi. Various motives have been as- 
signed for this war-like expedition; the real motives were 
probably complex. Hideyoshi was undoubtedly angry at 



1 88 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Korea for her refusal to open the country to trade with 
Japan. He was willing to take his revenge for the assistance 
that had been given to the Yuan dynasty of Mongols in their 
attacks upon Japan. 1 But he was especially desirous to get 
at China through Korea, and to use the latter country as a 
base for his attack. He began (1587 A.D.) by sending a 
despatch to the warden of Tsushima directing him to invite 
the King of Korea to an audience with the Emperor of Japan; 
and he accompanied the invitation with a threat of invasion 
unless the invitation were accepted. Next, having quite 
thoroughly "pacified" (in Caesar's fashion) his own country, 
he sent a demand for presents plainly of a tributary char- 
acter with the same threat accompanying. This time an 
envoy from his own person assured the Koreans that unless 
they complied they would be compelled to march in the van 
of the Japanese army for the invasion of China. Hideyoshi, 
when this insolent demand failed of its purpose, first wor- 
shipped at the tomb of the Empress Jingo the reputed con- 
queror of Korea in most ancient times. In April, 1592, the 
Japanese invading force, which consisted according to the 
Japanese records of 130,000 in eight army corps, sailed in a 
fleet manned by 9,000 sailors with the Generals Konishi 
Yukinaga and Kato Kiyomasa leading the van. They were 
to carry out the threat of the Taiko for the punishment and 
subjugation of Korea. According to the statement of the 
authority we are following, 2 Hideyoshi expected to conquer 
China in two years and contemplated transferring the capital 
of Japan to that country. "He even went so far as to deter- 
mine the routine to be followed in the removal of the Japan- 
ese Court to China." How characteristic is this detailed 
planning, without sufficient regard for the exigencies of time, 
the enormous intervening obstacles, and the possible adverse 

1 The History of the Empire oj Japan, p. 278 /. 

2 Ibid., p. 280. 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 189 

will of heaven, of the national temperament even down to 
the present time! 

It is not necessary to our purpose to follow the early bril- 
liant successes and the disastrous ending of the invasion of 
Korea by Hideyoshi. Both nations displayed their charac- 
teristic virtues and faults during this period of intercourse by 
way of conflict the knightly courage and arrogant over- 
confidence of the Japanese, the passive power of resistance 
and the weakness and political corruption of the Koreans. 
But as to the invasion itself our sympathies must remain with 
Korea; it was without sufficient warrant, conducted incau- 
tiously, and more disastrous in its result to the invaders 
themselves than to the country which they had, for the time 
being, desolated. By the courage and skill of Admiral Yi 
and by the assistance of China, the forces of Japan were 
finally, after a period of seven years, so reduced that Hide- 
yoshi, at the point of death, recalled them; and the war 
came to an end in 1598. The terms of peace agreed to were 
on the whole humiliating to the Japanese. 

The great lyeyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Dynasty, 
took measures, repeatedly and patiently, to renew those rela- 
tions of a promising friendly character which had been dis- 
solved in hatred by the invasion of Hideyoshi. He sent re- 
peated embassies to Korea, restored prisoners that had been 
led captive at the time of the Taiko's invasion, and spared no 
pains to make the Koreans understand that a decided change 
of policy had taken place in the Japanese Government toward 
their country. From his time onward, the official treatment 
given to Korea by Japan has been conspicuous, as compared 
with the example furnished by other civilized countries under 
similar trying conditions, jor its fairness and its friendliness. 
This fact becomes amusingly obvious when we compare the 
way in which the claims for tribute from Korea have been 
made by the two countries, China and Japan. Under the 



i go IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Tokugawas the nominal sovereigns paid the bills; but the 
Korean tribute-bearers (sic) had a largely free junketing 
expedition of three months' duration at the expense of the 
Japanese. Under the Manchu Dynasty, however, the 
tribute fixed for annual payment took a very substantial 
shape; it included 100 ounces of gold, 1,000 ounces of silver, 
10,000 bags of rice, 2,000 pieces of silk, 10,000 pieces of 
cotton cloth, 10,000 rolls (50 sheets each) of large-sized 
paper, and other less important items. Even then, it can 
be seen, the Chinese greatly excelled the Japanese in their 
business ability. Moreover, when the Koreans pleaded that 
the payment of tribute to China had so impoverished them 
that they could not render what was due to Japan, the Japan- 
ese forgave them the obligation (A.D. I638). 1 Nor was this 
the last time in which the forgiveness of debts was exercised 
toward the Korean Government in a manner unaccustomed 
between nations of conflicting interests. 

Finally the Koreans, having obtained the consent of China, 
sent to Japan a letter from their king, together with some 
presents; and from this time onward, on the occasion of each 
change of Shogun, Korean envoys came to the country to 
offer congratulations. The Tokugawas, on their side, were 
careful to "treat these delegates with all courtesy and con- 
sideration"; they also discontinued the offensive custom 
which the Ashikaga family had followed, of assuming for the 
Shogun the title of "King of Korea." 2 Meantime, the So 
family improved the opportunity which their position as in- 
termediaries between Japan and Korea afforded to renew 
and increase the trade relations of the two countries. It is 
probable that lasting friendly intercourse would have been 
established from this time onward if it had not been, at this 
period, as all through Korea's unfortunate history, for the 

1 See Griffis, The Hermit Nation, p. 159. 

2 See The History of the Empire of Japan, p. 304, 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 191 

i 

baleful influence of China. This fact becomes prominent in 
all the foreign relations of Korea during the half century 
following the early attempts to open the Hermit Kingdom to 
intercourse with other nations. The French and American 
expeditions for this purpose were productive only of the result 
that the Koreans became more obstinate in their resistance 
to outside influences, and more secure in their pride and 
confidence in their ability to resist auccessfuly through their 
superior craft and courage in war. These expeditions illus- 
trate, however, the policy of China in maintaining its claims 
of suzerainty over Korea. To take, for example, the ex- 
perience of the United States in dealing with this policy, it 
may be summarized in somewhat the following way: 

The destruction of the American schooner General Sher- 
man, in 1866, was the occasion of some desultory correspond- 
ence between the American and the Chinese Governments. 
The former presented the matter at Peking because China 
was supposed to sustain some sort of relationship of suzer- 
ainty, not clearly understood, toward Korea. China, how- 
ever, would not admit the existence of any kind of bond which 
made her responsible for Korean acts; the Tsungli Yamen 
said, in effect, that there had existed from ancient times a 
certain dependency by Korea upon China; but they denied 
in express words that it was of such a nature as to give China 
any right to control or to interfere with the administration of 
Korean foreign or domestic affairs. 

It was precisely this attitude which was the fans et origo of 
the subsequent trouble between China and Japan. From 
the Chinese standpoint, as shown by official declarations and 
acts, Korea was and was not a vassal state. She was so when 
it suited China actively to interfere, and not so when it was 
either difficult or dangerous, or even troublesome, to assume 
the responsibilities of suzerainty. China was not even willing 
to act the part of intermediary if by doing so she could be 



I 9 2 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

held to accept the onus of making or compelling the repara- 
tion which America demanded. 

Finally the United States Government took matters in its 
own hands and the expedition under Admiral John Rodgers 
was sent to Korea in 1871. The failure of that expedition to 
accomplish anything beyond the destruction of the fort on 
Kang-wha Island, and Commodore Shufeldt's subsequent at- 
tempt to open up communication with the Korean Govern- 
ment, were the total of American efforts regarding Korea up 
to the time when the Shufeldt treaty was negotiated. 

After the fall of the Tokugawa Government the Korean 
Court desisted from the custom of sending an embassy to 
Japan to congratulate the succession to the place of supreme 
rule; it even declared its determination to have no further 
relations with a country which had embraced the Western 
civilization. When the Government of the Restoration sent 
an envoy to Korea to announce the change and to "confirm 
friendly relations between the two states," the Korean Court 
refused to recognize the envoy or to receive his message. 
The real reason for this affront was the influence of China; 
the ostensible reason referred to the fact that the term " Great 
Empire of Japan" was employed in the Imperial letter. As 
says Brinkley: "Naturally such conduct roused deep um- 
brage in Japan. It constituted a verdict that, whereas the 
Old Japan had been entitled to the respect and homage of 
neighboring Powers, the New might be treated with con- 
tumely." Thus, just when the affairs of the newly centralized 
Government were assuming that condition of strength and 
harmony so imperatively demanded for the present welfare 
and future prospects of Japan, dissension arose among the 
Ministers of the Crown with regard to the policy to be pur- 
sued toward Korea. Bitterness of feeling had already been 
excited by the fact that when Japan returned to their country 
some shipwrecked Koreans, and accompanied this humane 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 193 

act with other friendly advances, the advances were repulsed 
and the Court of Korea declined even to receive the envoy. 
And now, among the leaders of Japan, Saigo, Soyeshima, 
Itagaki, Goto, and Eto, insisted on war for the purpose of 
avenging the insult; Okubo, Iwakura, and Ito advocated 
peaceful means. Indeed, the so-called "Saga Party" was 
confederated with these two purposes chiefly in view: (i) 
the restoration of feudalism, and (2) the making of a punitive 
war upon Korea. The peace party triumphed ; the Satsuma 
rebellion followed ; and Japan made its first great contribution 
of treasure and blood toward the maintenance of friendly rela- 
tions with a Korea that, nominally independent so far as its own 
selfish duplicity chose to consider it so, was virtually subservient 
to all manner of foreign intrigue and unscrupulous control. 

This situation and the subsequent events, however, require 
a more detailed consideration. According to Brinkley, the 
great Saigo Takamori, who was a member of the Cabinet at 
this time, and who had been Chief of the Army and one of 
the most powerful agents in bringing about the Restoration, 
"saw in a foreign war the sole remaining chance of achieving 
his ambition by lawful means. The Government's con- 
scription scheme, yet in its infancy, had not produced even 
the skeleton of an army. If Korea had to be conquered, the 
samurai must be employed, and their employment would 
mean, if not their rehabilitation, at least their organization 
into a force which, under Saigo's leadership, might dictate a 
new polity. Other members of the Cabinet believed that the 
nation would be disgraced if it tamely endured Korea's in- 
sults. Thus several influential voices swelled the clamor for 
war. But a peace party offered strenuous opposition. Its 
members perceived the collateral issues of the problem, and 
declared that the country must not think of taking up arms 
during a period of radical transition." 1 

1 Japan, IV, p. 207. 



i 9 4 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

The part of China at this time, as ever, in encouraging 
difficult and threatening relations between Japan and Korea 
cannot be overlooked. In the events of 1866 the Chinese did 
not maintain neutrality as between the forces of the Shogunate 
and of the Imperial party, but secretly sold arms to the former. 
They also engaged in the trade of kidnapping and selling the 
children of indigent Japanese. 1 When, after the treaty of 
1871 was concluded (namely, in 1872), the natives of Formosa 
murdered some shipwrecked Loochoo islanders, the Peking 
Government declined to acknowledge any responsibility for 
the conduct of the natives of Formosa. And it was only 
through the offices of the British Minister that the Chinese, 
after procrastinating and vacillating, agreed to pay 100,000 
taels to the families of the murdered, and 400,000 taels toward 
the cost of a punitive expedition which had been despatched 
against the Formosans. 

In 1875 another envoy was sent to Korea, but he returned 
with the customary result; and in August of the same year 
a man-of-war en route to China, which had put into the 
harbor of Chemulpo for fuel and water, was fired upon by 
the Koreans. Whereupon the crew attacked and burned the 
Korean fortress. And now the same question recurred in a 
still more exasperating form: What shall Japan do with 
Korea, for whose bad conduct China, while claiming rights 
of suzerainty in all her foreign relations and actually exer- 
cising a determining influence over her internal affairs, never- 
theless declines to be responsible ; and who will not of herself 
regard any of those regulations, or common decencies of 
international intercourse, which modern civilization has es- 
tablished as binding upon all countries? 

The considerations which prevailed on former occasions 
still held good when Korea offered this new affront. The 
peace party, of which Marquis Ito and Count Inouye were 
1 See The History of the Empire of Japan, p. 403 ff. 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 195 

prominent members the former being also a member of the 
Cabinet thought that it was Japan's first duty to devote all 
her energies to the task of domestic improvement, while cul- 
tivating friendly relations with her neighbors. The problem 
which confronted the advocates of peace was not an easy one. 
Saigo was in retirement in his native province, surrounded 
by his devoted supporters, and it was easily to be seen that he 
would take umbrage if this new insult was allowed to pass 
unavenged, and would possibly make it the pretext for some- 
thing more serious than mere remonstrance. The decision in 
favor of peace instead of war required a high order of courage. 
The state of public feeling on the subject and the powerful 
opposition on which the Government had to count was well 
illustrated by a petition presented nearly a year later by the 
Tosa Association, over the signature of Kataoka Kenkichi, 
afterward speaker of the Lower House of the Diet. Ani- 
madverting upon the Government's action, the petition said : 

Our people knew that Korea is a country with which Japan has 
had intercourse since the most ancient times. Suddenly the in- 
tercourse was broken off, and when we sent an envoy thither he 
was befooled and all his proposals were rejected. Not only were 
the Koreans insulting, but they threatened hostile resistance. It 
was proposed to send a second envoy to remonstrate (?) against 
the treatment of the former one, but the government suddenly 
changed its views and nothing further was done. The people 
when they learned this became enraged, and their feelings found 
vent in the rebellion of the samurai of Saga. 

This petition no doubt accurately reflects the state of pub- 
lic feeling at the time to which it refers. The Government 
did not, however, yield to the popular clamor for war, and 
this was due in no small measure to the efforts of Marquis 
Ito. He counselled patience and advised his colleagues from 
the outset that advantage should be taken of the opportunity 
to place the relations of Japan and Korea upon a new basis 



196 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

by means of a treaty of peace and friendship. These mod- 
erate counsels prevailed and the Cabinet decided with the 
Imperial sanction to make the treaty, although two of its 
members, Shimadzu Saburo and Itagaki subsequently re- 
signed* 

Marquis Ito fully appreciated the obstacles which the al- 
leged suzerainty of China opposed to the establishment of 
satisfactory treaty relations between Japan and Korea. Ac- 
cordingly he devoted himself, with the assistance of M. Bois- 
sonade, the distinguished French publicist, and of Mr. 
Inouye, the well-known Japanese authority, to a careful 
study of this question. The decision reached was that the 
bond uniting China and Korea was not, either historically or 
according to the rules of international law, that of suzerain 
and vassal state. It therefore logically followed that Korea 
must be approached directly and dealt with as an independent 
Power. The importance of this decision cannot be over- 
estimated. It was the first formal recognition of Korean 
national independence. More than that, it was the declara- 
tion on the part of Japan of a policy having in view the po- 
litical, commercial and economical progress of her neighbor. 
By the treaty of 1876 Japan abandoned all of her own ancient 
claims to suzerainty and did what she could to place Korea 
upon the high road to prosperous national development which 
she herself was travelling. No friend of Japan will claim 
that it was an entirely altruistic policy. Her action was dic- 
tated as much by motives of intelligent self-interest as by 
consideration for Korea. The fate of the peninsular kingdom 
was of vital importance to Japan. As an appanage of China 
its condition was hazardous. China had from ancient times 
claimed suzerainty over all surrounding nations, but those 
claims had never proved a safeguard nor prevented the sub- 
jugation or absorption of these so-called vassal states by 
other Powers. In fact, they were an element of weakness in 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 197 

quarrels where China herself was principal; for it might 
easily happen that the vassal would be exposed to attack, 
in case China herself could not easily be reached. This was 
especially the truth as regarded Korea, concerning whom 
China had given direct proof that while prepared to claim all 
the prerogatives of suzerainty when it implied no risk to 
herself, she was only too likely, when a strong Power threaten- 
ened, to shirk all responsibility and abandon Korea to her 
fate. To treat with Korea as an independent nation and 
thus to set an example which would in all likelihood be fol- 
lowed by other Powers, seemed the best way of avoiding 
such a catastrophe. At the same time there was good reason 
to hope, even confidently to expect, that Korea, drawn into 
intimate intercourse with the world, would be freed from the 
trammels which prevented progress, and would gradually 
attain a condition where foreign aggression would be impos- 
sible. 

Count Kuroda and Count Inouye were appointed First and 
Second Envoys, respectively, for the negotiation of the treaty. 
The representatives of the Treaty Powers were frankly in- 
formed of the objects of the mission. Before he left, Count 
Inouye called upon Mr. Bingham, the American Minister, 
who cordially sympathized with the Government's intentions, 
and borrowed Bayard Taylor's abridged history of Commo- 
dore Perry's expedition. The Count said he feared that the 
Koreans might show signs of obduracy, in which case it would 
become necessary for his colleague and himself to have re- 
course to some of the measures which Commodore Perry 
found so efficacious. Inouye wished to have the book so 
that he could refresh his memory and be better perfected in 
the part if it became necessary to play it. 1 

As before intimated, the Japanese Government was anxious 

1 This is on the authority of Mr. D. W. Stevens, whose acquaintance 
with the facts is most accurate and full. 



198 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

that the Treaty of 1876 should be followed by like Treaties 
between Korea and other Powers. It cordially tendered its 
good offices when Commodore Shufeldt visited Japan pre- 
vious to the negotiation of the treaty concluded by him, and 
on subsequent occasions did what was possible to facilitate 
the conclusion of other treaties with Korea. Its policy in 
that regard was illustrated in "an interesting way by the state- 
ment of Count Inouye, then Minister for Foreign Affairs, to 
Mr. Bingham in 1882, with reference to the appointment of 
General Foote, the first American Minister to Korea. He 
said to Mr. Bingham, as the latter reported to Secretary 
Frelinghuysen, that the action of the American Government 
"in ratifying so promptly its treaty with Korea and accredit- 
ing a minister to that kingdom gave great satisfaction to His 
Imperial Japanese Majesty's Government, and was accepted 
as another evidence of the policy of justice so often mani- 
fested by the United States toward the states of Asia." He 
also said that it was considered an act of friendship toward 
Japan as well as Korea. 

In considering all the subsequent relations of Japan and 
Korea two things should be kept distinctly in view as deter- 
mining questions of justice and injustice, of wisdom or un- 
wisdom, in the policy of both countries. In the first place: 
In order to conclude "a treaty of commerce and amity which 
recognized the independence of Korea," Japan rather than 
engage in a punitive war, had encountered in its own "terri- 
tory a rebellion which cost the Government of the Restora- 
tion no less than 60,000 men and 416,000,000 yen. And 
second, in allowing this treaty to go through in the form which 
it actually took, China had been convicted of the duplicity and 
wholly untenable character of its claims to exercise the rights 
of suzerainty over Korea. On the latter point Minister 
Rockhill 1 affirms that the conclusion in 1876 of the treaty of 

1 China's Intercourse with Korea from the XVth Century to 1895, P- * / 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 199 

Kang-wha between Japan and Korea "marks the beginning 
of a new era in the history of the latter country, its entry into 
the family of nations." "Prior to the Kang-wha treaty," 
this authority goes on to say: "The nature of Korea's relation 
to China was a puzzle to Western nations. They were told, 
at one and the same time, that Korea, though a vassal and 
tributary state of China, was entirely independent so far as 
her government, religion, and intercourse with foreign states 
were concerned a condition of things hardly compatible 
with our ideas of either absolute dependence or complete in- 
dependence." 

"In 1871 the Chinese Foreign Office wrote the United 
States Minister in Peking, Mr. Frederick F. Low, who had 
informed it of his recent appointment by his Government as 
special envoy to Korea, and was about proceeding there, 
that: 'Korea is regarded as a country subordinate to China, 
yet is wholly independent in everything that relates to her 
government, her religion, her prohibitions, and her laws; in 
none of these things has China hitherto interfered.'" l But 
the first Article of the treaty signed in 1876 with Japan reads 
as follows: "Chosen, being an independent state, enjoys the 
same sovereign rights as does Japan"; and in 1882 the King 
of Korea wrote to the President of the United States, when 
the two countries were about to enter into treaty relations, 
pledging his Government that the terms of the treaty should 
be "carried into effect according to the laws of independent 
states." 

It was this not merely theoretical suzerainty, but a per- 
nicious practice of interference and dictation on the part of 
China over Korea, joined to the utterly corrupt and weak 
government of the latter country, which led inevitably to 
the war between the former and Japan. Similar claims of 
the Government of Peking, under existing political and social 

1 Foreign Relations of the United States, 1871, p. 112. 



200 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

conditions, over the weaker states which were alleged to be 
dependencies of this Government, the civilized nations of the 
world have repeatedly found themselves compelled to dis- 
regard; and this, in the interests of the dependent people 
themselves. 

The mental attitude and practical treatment which the 
Korean Court and Yang-ban class in general have accorded 
to the treaties with Japan and other foreign nations have been 
essentially unchanged from the beginning. All depends upon 
the apparent immediate effect of foreign intercourse on their 
ancient rights and privileges of office-bearing and official 
" squeezing." The Mins, the family of the late Queen, have 
always been notoriously corrupt; and, if the Queen herself 
was ever sincerely opposed to the anti-foreign policy, it is likely 
that the opposition had its source in the selfish interests of 
her own family and in her hatred of the King's father, the 
Tai Won Kun. The latter was always consistently and 
energetically opposed to all foreign intercourse. 

The condition of affairs in Korea preceding the troubles 
of 1882 and 1884 is graphically and truthfully described by 
the report of Ensign George C. Foulk, of the United States 
Navy, in which he submitted to his Government information 
relative to the revolutionary attempt of the latter date. With 
regard to the Government of Korea, Ensign Foulk says that 
"it has been for an indefinite period under the practical con- 
trol of the Min Family, of which the Queen of Korea is at 
present the highest representative. The blood of this family 
is largely Chinese, and it has been always, and remains, the 
desire and aim of this family to subject, and retain in sub- 
jection, their country to the suzerainty of China. Members 
of this family are accorded special privileges by China, and 
are, to the exclusion of other Korean noble families, on com- 
paratively social terms with the Court of China, which they 
visit frequently. The family is very large, and includes the 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 201 

highest number of great nobles, with the greatest landed 
estates, of all the families of the nobility in Korea. . . . The 
great body of Korean people know little or nothing of the 
politics of their Government, nor do they dare to use any 
information they may by chance possess on Government 
affairs." 

Ensign Foulk then goes on to draw attention to the re- 
markable phenomenon that, while the Chinese "are detested 
for their appearance, conduct and customs," nothing by way 
of cruelty and fraud that they may do awakens practical 
resentment; but the Japanese, on the contrary, while "even 
admired by Koreans of the present day for their appearance, 
customs, and conduct, are so hated that the "Koreans are 
always ready for the license when they may vent this feeling 
in shedding Japanese blood." With regard to the real atti- 
tude of the Queen's family, he further affirms: "This energy 
of the Mins [namely, in conducting negotiations for a treaty 
with the United States] has given them the mistaken reputa- 
tion of being members of the progressive party in Korea; in 
fact, they only acted in obedience to their hereditary lord, 
China, without a thought patriotic to Korea, beyond that 
they, in common with all Koreans at that time, felt the 
danger of the seizure of a part of Korea by Russia." 

Now, however, the Tai Won Kun, the bitter enemy of the 
Queen, had his turn at the wheel on which the fate of this 
unfortunate country was revolving, first in one direction and 
then in the other. In July, 1882, taking advantage of dis- 
affection among the soldiers of the capital, occasioned by 
short rations issued by the Mins (a "steal in army con- 
tracts"), he directed their revolt against that family, and, 
having disposed of its members, seized the Government for 
himself. Many Mins were killed; Min Tai-ho (father of 
Min Yong-ik) was left, supposed to be fatally wounded, in a 
ditch; poison was to be administered to the Queen, but a 



202 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

/ 

maid, personating her in disguise, took the poison and died 
while the Queen escaped. Min Yong-ik shaved his head, 
and, after hiding in the mountains three days, walked to 
Fusan whence he escaped to Japan in the guise of a Bud- 
dhist priest. For his disobedience to its command and his 
attempt to annihilate its royal servants, the Mins, the Chinese 
Government sent its troops to Korea and carried off into 
banishment the Tai Won Kun; but the power of the Mins 
in China's behalf having been greatly cut down by the 
revolt, Chinese troops were placed in Seoul to strengthen the 
remainder, and continued there after the revolt was sup- 
pressed. 

It was, then, in connection with the armed interference of 
China in a domestic quarrel between the wife and the father 
of the Emperor, China, which had repeatedly disclaimed 
all responsibility for Korean internal affairs and which had 
permitted Korea to make a foreign treaty on terms of equal- 
ity, that the Korean Court offered again, in 1882, another 
affront to Japan. This time, also, the insult was written in 
blood. For through no fault or offence on their part, a 
number of Japanese were killed in the course of a domestic 
riot, and the Japanese Minister was obliged to flee from the cap- 
ital and to put to sea in a fishing boat, whence he was rescued 
by an English vessel. The provocation was greater than 
that for which western nations have frequently exacted 
exemplary vengeance, much greater than the offence given 
by the rebellious Daimyo -of Choshin, for which the Treaty 
Powers had held Japan herself so strictly to account. Never- 
theless, Japan made due allowance for the irresponsibility and 
weakness of the Korean Government. An apology, an in- 
demnity of 550,000 yen (50,000 being for private sufferers), 
and a Convention of two articles defining treaty limits, etc. 
(signed August 30, 1882), were the sum of her demands. 
The payment of 400,000 yen of the indemnity was afterward 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 203 

remitted. The instructions of the Emperor of Japan com- 
manding this to be done contained the following declaration : 

We hereby remit four hundred thousand yen of the indemnity 
of five hundred thousand yen due from Korea, which sum we 
sincerely trust will be employed to supplement the funds already 
devoted to the introduction of civilization into the country. 

It is a curious coincidence that the Minister who, on the 
gth of November, 1884, transmitted this message, was obliged 
only a few weeks later to flee from Seoul like his predecessor, 
on account of the perpetration of outrages against Japan, 
even greater than those for which the indemnity had been 
exacted. 

This renewal of the stipulated condition of commerce and 
amity between Japan and Korea, with its renewed act of 
forgiveness on the part of the former toward the latter, only 
prepared the way for the more serious outrages of 1884. 
The Chinese force which was sent to support the anti-foreign 
and unprogressive policy of the Min family, proceeded to take 
up permanent quarters in extensive camps within the walls of 
Seoul. They erected a fort close by the palace gates and two 
others outside of the city, in a situation to defend the ap- 
proaches from the river Han. A little later they increased 
the number of Chinese troops in Seoul to 3,000 men. In the 
opinion of Ensign Foulk, the confession forced from certain 
Korean officials revealed the truth that these foreign soldiers 
were quartered in the capital city in order to enforce a secret 
agreement between China and the Mins, representing Korea, 
which gave to the Peking Government rights of suzerainty 
such as it had never even claimed before. 

Then began an increasingly bitter strife between the re- 
actionary party, supported by Chinese soldiers, and the re- 
form party, the leaders of which had been abroad (chiefly in 
Japan) and had returned determined to exert themselves to 



204 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

bring about reforms and to introduce the benefits of Western 
civilization in their native land. Japan, however, had given 
the frankest and most sincere assurances that such troops as 
it kept in Korea were only for the defence of its own Legation, 
and that it aimed to assist Korea in all its efforts at progress. 
" From Japan," says Ensign Foulk, " came a number of quali- 
fied Japanese, who were held in readiness to begin teaching 
the use of machinery, the manufacture of paper, pottery, etc. 
Steps were also taken towards securing a director of agricul- 
ture, school teachers, and several other foreigners for service 
under the Korean Government. In regard to these the ini- 
tiatory steps were taken in consultation with the progresssive 
leaders, including the King, in which I was warmly invited 
to have a voice." 1 Gradually, however, in part through 
fear, in part through jealousy, and perhaps also with some 
degree, in certain cases, of more intelligent and honorable 
reasons, certain leading members of the progressive party 
fell more and more under Chinese influences. 

How insolently the foreign soldiers from China during this 
period treated the Koreans may be learned from the following 
incident. In August, 1884, a Korean officer of high rank was 
openly seized by a party of Chinese soldiers and beaten by 
them in the street so severely that his life was despaired of; 
this was the outcome of a quarrel between the Chinese Com- 
missioner and the Korean officer about the right of passage 
through a gateway of the Korean officer's house, which was 
next to that of the Chinese officer. " On the contrary," says 
Ensign Foulk, "the attitude of the Japanese in Seoul had 
always been such as to indicate an earnest desire to aid the 
party of progress, and to be on peaceable, friendly terms with 
the people. The conduct of Japanese citizens toward 
Koreans was commendable. As indicating great considera- 
tion on the part of the Japanese Government toward Korea, 

1 Quoted from the paper referred to above. 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 205 

was the restraint placed upon Japanese merchants establish- 
ing themselves in Seoul, by the Japanese Minister, who evi- 
dently in doing so followed the spirit of the treaties, by which 
the capital was not to be thrown open to trade if the Chinese 
left." 

When their factional strifes had the customary expression 
in revolution, arson, and bloodshed, the Koreans, aided by 
the Chinese soldiers, turned upon the Japanese. The sub- 
sequent occurrences and the way that the Japanese Govern- 
ment dealt with them are narrated in the words of one who 
was an eye-witness of, and an actor in, them : * 

With subsequent occurrences I am personally familiar, having 
accompanied Count Inouye, Minister for Foreign Affairs, when 
he went as Special Ambassador to Korea to settle the difficulty. 

This was another occasion when public excitement ran very 
high in Japan. The nation was clamoring for war with China, 
and the feeling of keen indignation in Army and Navy circles was 
strongly marked. Following so closely upon the events of 1882 
this new outrage appeared to all classes to be the last straw. The 
Government, however, then under the premiership of Marquis 
Ito, was determined to have recourse to the last resort only after 
every means of honorable accommodation had been exhausted. 
As Marquis Ito's mission to China subsequently showed, it was 
also determined to settle once and for all, so far as that could be 
done, the question of China's right forcibly to interfere in Korean 
domestic brawls, which was really the gravest feature of the 
occurrence. 

The choice of an official of Count Inouye's high rank showed 
the importance which the government attached to the mission. 
The designation of Admiral Kabayama and General Takashima, 
typical representatives of the prevailing feeling in Army and Navy 
circles, to accompany him, was most sagacious. It was proof to 

1 For this account, as here given verbatim, I am indebted to the Hon. 
D. W. Stevens, who was at the time of my visit, "Adviser to the Korean 
Council of State and Counsellor of the Resident-General." 



206 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

the Army and Navy, as well as to the people at large, that nothing 
would be done in the dark, and that no arrangement would be 
concluded in anywise damaging to Japan's honor or prestige. 

It must be confessed that there was good ground for indigna- 
tion in Japan. A domestic revolution had taken place in Seoul, 
attended by many of the incidents common where government is 
" despotism tempered by assassination." But neither Japan nor 
her agents were responsible for that. Mr. Takezoye, the Japanese 
Minister, had gone to the Palace with his bodyguard, at the King's 
request, to guard the royal person. It was a technical mistake, 
no doubt on the Minister's part, for he should not have interfered 
in the matter, or, at the most, should have asked the King to come 
to the Legation. But there can be no doubt that he acted in good 
faith. He was an amiable scholar rather than a diplomat and 
had always maintained the most cordial personal relations with 
.the King. The latter was never in any sense a prisoner in his 
hands, as was shown conclusively by the visit of the foreign 
representatives. The populace of Seoul, egged on by the con- 
servatives, took a different view, however, as did also the large 
force of Chinese troops gathered at the Chinese Legation. The 
former slaughtered all the Japanese they could reach, and the 
latter, some 3,000 in number, in company with several hundred 
Korean soldiers, attacked the Japanese soldiers. The little Jap- 
anese force (143 in number, not 400 as Hulbert states) beat them 
off with heavy loss, without themselves suffering any serious 
casualties. By that time, however, the conservatives had gained 
the upper hand in the palace. The King informed Mr. Takezoye 
that he did not require further assistance from him, preferring to 
be guarded by his own soldiers; whereupon the Minister, as in 
duty bound, returned to the Legation. He found his position 
untenable, however, and resolved to go to Chemulpo. There were 
about 200 non-combatants at the Legation to be cared for, among 
them many women and children. Guarding these as best they 
could the little band of soldiers started for the city gate through 
streets rilled with a hostile mob. It was a dangerous march; a 
march which foreigners who were in Seoul at the time described to 
me with admiration. Numbers of armed Koreans were gathered 




I 

bfl 

C 
O 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 207 

to oppose it, not the least formidable being those who threw 
stones and other missiles from the house tops. At one point some 
Korean soldiers brought out Gatling guns, but these were charged 
and disabled before any use could be made of them. The Jap- 
anese forced their way, finally, through the West Gate, and thence 
on to Chemulpo, with casualties of one killed and a number 
wounded. The Legation was looted and set on fire several hours 
after it was deserted, and was completely destroyed. 

Mr. Takezoye was at Chemulpo when Count Inouye arrived on 
the 3ist of December. The Count was also met by Mr. von 
Mollendorff, a high official of the Chinese Customs, detailed for 
duty in Korea, who likewise acted in a diplomatic capacity. 
Count Inouye informed him that he intended to go to Seoul at 
once and to demand an audience at the earliest practicable mo- 
ment. Mr: von Mollendorff had various reasons to urge for 
delay, but Count Inouye swept them aside, and the Embassy 
proceeded to Seoul the next day; it was accompanied by about 
400 soldiers, a smaller force having been left at Chemulpo. In 
Seoul, where they arrived that night, the Ambassador and suite 
were lodged in the yamen of the Governor of the City, just outside 
the West Gate. The same night the Ambassador presented his 
formal request for an immediate audience. It met with the 
customary Oriental reception: His Majesty was not in robust 
health; the Ambassador himself must be tired and in need of 
rest after his long journey; the attention of His Majesty was 
occupied with preparations for a fitting reception of His Excel- 
lency, and so on. Mr. von Mollendorff was kept very busy 
running back and forth, but finally it was made clear to the minds 
of the King's adv.isers that Count Inouye meant exactly what he 
said, and that disagreeable things might happen if he did not have 
his way. 

The audience was finally appointed for January 3d. On the 
morning of that day the cavalcade set forth, a military band 
trained by a foreign band-master in the van; then a mounted 
guard of honor; then the Ambassador, accompanied by Admiral 
Kabayama and General Takashima and followed by his sec- 
retaries,, and bringing up the rear a company of infantry. As 



2 o8 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

the procession passed through the Gate and emerged into the wide 
street leading to the East Gate, a curious and inspiriting spectacle 
presented itself. The morning was fresh and clear; the air crisp 
and invigorating, and the broad, sunny street as far as the eye 
could see was one mass of gaily clad humanity, men dressed in 
coats of every color, white, as is usual, predominating. The 
crowds parted before the head of the procession like waves be- 
neath the prow of a ship; the Korean police ran alongside plying 
their many-thonged whips with indiscriminate zeal; and then, 
as if to add the last queer touch to the whole proceeding, the 
band struck up " Dixie." 

Nor did odd happenings end here. When the procession arrived 
at the triple gates of the Palace, the centre gate was closed. Count 
Inouye halted the line immediately and demanded the reason. It 
was explained by Mr. Mollendorff that the centre gate was reserved 
for the King, and that the side gates were used by the highest 
dignitaries. Count Inouye replied that he was an Ambassador, 
the personal representative of his sovereign, and that as such he 
could not pass through an inferior entrance. Back went the 
messenger behind the barred gate, and in a few minutes appeared 
again breathlessly explaining that to their great chagrin and regret, 
royal etiquette, binding upon His Majesty as upon his lowest sub- 
ject, could not be disregarded. Upon that Count Inouye blandly 
retorted that he also was bound by etiquette, immutable and un- 
changeable; and that if the gate was not opened within three 
minutes, much to his regret he would be obliged to retrace his 
steps and to report to his Imperial Master this new slight to Japan. 
The gate was opened without further delay. 

After that the audience passed off smoothly. Count Inouye 
was careful to impress upon the King's mind, as upon the minds 
of his advisers, that while his mission was one of peace, much 
depended upon the sincerity and promptitude with which Korea 
met Japan's just demands for redress and upon the guarantees 
she gave against the recurrence of like causes of complaint. The 
negotiations throughout were conducted in that spirit. The Am- 
bassador was kindly and considerate, but would tolerate no palter- 
ing or double-dealing. He couched his demands in firm but 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 209 

friendly language, made every allowance for the embarrassing 
position in which the King found himself, placed the responsibility 
for what had happened where it belonged, but made it very clear 
all the while that neither he nor his government would be trifled 
with. This was shown in a sensational way at the first formal 
meeting of the Ambassador with the Korean plenipotentiaries. 
The meeting had hardly convened when suddenly a bustle was 
heard in the courtyard, and, without further notice, the Chinese 
Consul-General entered, suavely bowing to those present. Pay- 
ing no attention to him, Count Inouye sprang to his feet and de- 
manded of the Chief Korean Plenipotentiary what the intrusion 
meant, and whether the Chinese official had ventured upon this 
extraordinary step with his knowledge and consent. If that were 
the case, he would regard it as his duty to break off the negotia- 
tions at once, for the Japanese Government would not tolerate for 
a moment any interference of that kind, and would warmly resent 
Korea's connivance with it. There was a hasty disavowal on the 
Korean side, the Consul-General lamely adding that as China and 
Japan and Korea were friends, and as the matter under discussion 
was of interest to all three, he had come of his own accord to 
participate in a friendly way in the proceedings. He thereupon 
withdrew somewhat less blithely than he had entered. Count 
Inouye then repeated what he had said and gave the Korean 
plenipotentiaries clearly to understand that he would not tolerate 
the repetition of such childish antics, but would regard them, if 
again attempted, as reason for the gravest offence. This warning 
had its effect; the negotiations thereafter proceeded expeditiously 
and the Convention was signed on the gth of January. It stipu- 
lated an apology; the payment of an indemnity of 110,000 yen to 
the relatives of the murdered and the merchants who had been 
plundered; the punishment of the murderers of Captain Iso- 
bayashi, military attache; the furnishing of sites for legation and 
consulate, materials for building the same, and 20,000 yen to pay 
the cost of construction; the building of barracks for Japanese 
troops adjacent to the Legation; and further that the murderers 
of Captain Isobayashi should be punished within twenty days 
after the convention was signed. 



210 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

The events of 1882 and 1884 had emphasized what the 
entire history of the relations of Japan and Korea had made 
manifest namely, that some distinct understanding with 
China must be reached if the two neighboring countries were 
ever to live together in peace. The task of establishing 
such an understanding was assigned to Marquis Ito, and in 
the spring of 1885 he proceeded to China as Japan's special 
Ambassador. Li Hung Chang, who was then Viceroy of 
Chi-li, was the Ambassador appointed by the Peking Gov- 
ernment. The latter appointment was the more significant 
because Li was supposed to entertain a profound distrust and 
dislike of the Japanese; moreover, Yuan Shi Kai, whose 
subsequent career has been so important in the politics of 
the Far East, and who had been in command of the Chinese 
soldiers at the time of their slaughter of the Japanese in 
1884, was a protege of Li's. In spite of the inherent diffi- 
culties, the broad statesmanship and frankness of the Mar- 
quis overcame them; and the intercourse of these two men, 
whose personality and policy afterward had so much to do 
with the history of their respective countries, resulted in their 
becoming friends. The Chinese statesman expressed regret 
that he had not met Ito before, since he had now for the first 
time gained a correct conception of Japan's policy; he even 
went so far as to ask the Marquis to mention the need of 
governmental reforms to the Dowager Empress of China, who 
became angry at him, her own Viceroy, when he ventured to 
refer to the matter before her. 

On the 1 8th of April, 1885, a Convention was signed which 
was intended to prevent in the future all recurrence of events 
similar to those of the previous December. The important 
point of this Convention is that both sides pledged them- 
selves against armed interference in Korea except in pressing 
emergencies and after mutual consultation. This agree- 
ment, while it saved the "face" of China a matter so im- 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 211 

peratively important from the Chinese point of view was a 
virtual abandonment of her claim of suzerainty; for it gave 
to Japan, which made no such claim, equal interest in the 
internal affairs of Korea and equal right to send troops into 
its territory, in case the judgment of both countries recog- 
nized such a need. The agreement also promised good for 
Korea herself, since it made the use of Chinese or Japanese 
soldiers in control of Korean affairs more unlikely for trifling 
reasons; and, on the other hand, it safeguarded her against 
other foreign armed intervention as the result of her domestic 
intrigues. 

The story of what followed and led up to the war with 
Japan is, briefly, as follows: The stipulations of this Con- 
vention were observed by Japan both in letter and in spirit, 
and by China, upon the surface at least. For a few years 
neither Power sent troops to Korea; and China ceased to 
flaunt the claim to suzerainty before her neighbor's face. 
But she still cherished the fiction and sought to maintain by 
indirection, and by means peculiarly Chinese, what she had 
failed to uphold in the open. Thus, in 1887, as stated in 
Moore's Digest o] International Law: "The Chinese Govern-- 
ment sought to prevent the departure of a Korean envoy to 
the United States on the ground of the dependent relation of 
Korea toward China. The American Minister at Peking 
was instructed to express surprise and regret at this action on 
the part of the Chinese Government. The envoy finally set 
out on his journey, but when he arrived in the United States 
the Chinese Minister at Washington wrote the Department 
of State to the effect that the Korean envoy would, on his 
arrival there, report to the Chinese Legation, and would be 
presented through it to the Department of State; after which 
he might apply for an opportunity to present his credentials 
to the President. 

" The Korean envoy, on the day after his arrival in Wash- 



212 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

ington, addressed a note to Mr. Bayard, as Secretary of State, 
asking for an interview to arrange for the presentation of his 
credentials to the President. Such an arrangement was duly 
made, and the envoy was presented without the intervention 
of the Chinese Minister. 'As the United States/ said Mr. 
Bayard, ' have no privity with the interrelations of China and 
Korea, we shall treat both as separate governments custom- 
arily represented here by their respective and independent 
agents.' " 

So unmistakable a declaration as this from a friendly, im- 
partial Power would, it might reasonably be thought, have 
caused China to abandon her shadowy pretensions. It did 
not have that effect, however. Her agents in Korea com- 
mitted no overt act which was likely to provoke remonstrance 
from the Treaty Powers; but they lost no opportunity of 
preserving in the Korean mind at least the fiction of de- 
pendency upon China. Yuan Shi Kai, for example, 
''Claimed, and to a large extent obtained, the position of 
Chinese Resident at Seoul. His official title was 'Director 
General Resident in Korea of Diplomatic and Consular Rela- 
tions,' and his substantive rank in his own country was that 
of Intendant of Circuit, a rank corresponding, according to 
the Anglo-Chinese Treaty, to that of a Consul. . . . Resi- 
dent Yuan was permitted to proceed to the Audience Hall in 
his chair and to be seated in the presence of the King, privi- 
leges not accorded to the representatives of the other Pow- 
ers." (Wilkinson's The Government oj Korea.) The privi- 
leges thus claimed by this representative of China were ob- 
tained in the course of several years after the conclusion of 
the Convention of 1885. They were largely ceremonial in 
character and none of the representatives of the Treaty 
Powers ever recognized the right of the so-called Resident to 
interfere in any manner in their business with the Korean 
Government. Whatever there was peculiar in his relations 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 213 

to that Government was a question of an understanding, 
practically secret, and never formally enunciated or recog- 
nized, between the Korean Court and himself. The condi- 
tions then prevailing in Korea were highly conducive to .the 
existence of such anomalies. An amiable but weak King; 
a corrupt Court and Government, with two powerful factions 
struggling for supremacy and stopping at nothing to gain it 
these were ideal conditions for the exercise of Chinese di- 
plomacy. It accomplished nothing in the end, however, even 
in the hands of such an astute and able man as Yuan Shi Kai. 
Japan, of course, never recognized his pretensions, but, biding 
her time and always dealing with Korea as an independent 
state, devoted herself to the promotion of the rapidly growing 
commercial and industrial interests of her people in the 
peninsula. 

Naturally neither the Government nor the people of Japan 
could view without resentment the attempts on China's part 
to maintain rights she had already practically surrendered. 
But this feeling did not assume a definite form until the as- 
sassination of Kim Ok Kiun at Shanghai, in March, 1894, 
and the arrest of a confederate of the murderer in Japan, who 
confessed that he was officially commissioned to murder 
another one of the Korean political refugees. These events 
aroused a storm of indignation in Japan. What followed 
added fuel to the flames. The murderer and the body of his 
victim were conveyed on board a Chinese man-of-war to 
Korea. The murderer was rewarded and the severed parts 
of Kim's body were publicly exhibited in different parts of 
Seoul. Rightly or wrongly this barbarous act, against which 
the foreign representatives at the instance of the Japanese 
Minister unofficially protested, was attributed to the Queen's 
party. The excitement it caused had not subsided when, in 
May, came the "Tong Hak" rebellion. The Tong Haks 
were religious fanatics, the chief article of whose creed was 



2i 4 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

said to be the massacre of all foreigners. Seoul was rife with 
rumors, and the utmost alarm and confusion prevailed. Ac- 
cording to the report of the American Minister, the rebellion 
was practically suppressed on the 3d of June by Korean 
troops; and on the 8th of June the Government officially an- 
nounced that it was at an end. In the meantime, however, 
the Chinese Government, without previous, notice to Japan 
or mutual consultation, as stipulated in the Convention of 
1885, sent a force of 2,000 troops to Korea, which on June 
loth landed at A-San, about forty miles south of Chemulpo, 
ostensibly to suppress the rebellion. The American Minister, 
Mr. Sill, in his report on the subject to the Department of 
State, says that "this was done at Korean request, dictated 
and insisted on by Yuan, the Chinese Resident." Learning 
of the purpose to send troops, the Japanese Government 
promptly remonstrated with the Government at Peking, and 
in reply was informed (after the act) that the troops had been 
sent because urgently needed to suppress disorders in "the 
vassal state." There was no explanation and no apology 
beyond this palpable and contemptuous violation of the terms 
of the Convention of 1885. There was but one possible re- 
sponse. On the same day that the Chinese troops landed, a 
force of Japanese marines was sent to the capital, to be re- 
placed a few days later by a larger body of soldiers. The 
scene of the struggle was then transferred to Seoul. The 
Korean Government, having brought the trouble on its own 
head, showed its usual impotence. It begged both Japan 
and China to leave, and sought aid from the foreign repre- 
sentatives in the effort to persuade them to do so. China 
was quite willing to accede to these appeals. Possibly her 
agent on the spot, it may even be the Government at Peking, 
was startled by the promptitude with which Japan had ac- 
cepted the challenge. In any event, China had nothing to 
lose and much to gain by doing as Korea asked. She could 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 215 

leave the scene with flying banners, having shown that Korea 
was in fact her vassal; that the Convention was waste paper 
and that Japan could be flouted with impunity. Naturally 
this programme did not commend itself to Japan. Accord- 
ing to her view of the situation there were certain vital ques- 
tions to be settled before the troops were withdrawn. Fore- 
most among these was the decision of Korea's actual status; 
then, subsidiary to this, but none the less important, the adop- 
tion of certain reforms which, while improving the public 
administration and promoting the common weal, would 
prevent the recurrence of disturbances which were a constant 
menace to the welfare of Korea and her neighbors. Accord- 
ingly, the Japanese Minister presented a memorial on the 
proposed reforms and demanded a categorical statement as 
to whether Korea was a vassal of China or not. 

Regarding the latter demand the American Minister re- 
ports that "This caused great consternation," since if they 
(the Korean Government) answered in the negative they 
would offend China, while an affirmative answer would bring 
down the wrath of Japan. After many consultations and 
several reminders to be prompt from the Japanese, an answer 
was given in this sense: " Korea, being an independent state, 
enjoys the same sovereign rights as does Japan (see Treaty of 
Kang-hwa, 1876), and that 'in both internal administration 
and foreign intercourse Korea enjoys complete independence ' 
(see letter of the King to the President of the United States). 
They supposed that by thus quoting the treaties which China 
allowed them to make she cannot take offence, while Japan 
should be content with such an answer." 

The breaking out of hostilities between China and Japan 
was, of course, the occasion of renewal in acute form of inter- 
nal strife between the conservative and the progressive forces 
in Korea. But for the time being the progressive forces, 
backed by the dominance of the Japanese, were the stronger. 



216 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

On the 5th of August, 1894, the Korean treaty with China 
was denounced; on the i5th of the same month it was 
formally abrogated by the Korean Government; and on the 
1 9th notice of an entirely new plan of Government was 
officially issued. On September 3d Marquis Saionji, special 
Ambassador from the Emperor of Japan, had an audience 
with the King and presented him with gifts, in honor of his 
accession to the position of an independent sovereign. Nu- 
merous reforms 1 which had been discussed in the Korean 
Council on July 3ist of this same year and agreed upon as 
laws to be submitted to His Majesty for his approval, instead 
of being sincerely, wisely, and perseveringly enacted and 
enforced, became the causes of increased defection, intrigue, 
and internal dissensions. 

The rebellion (referred to above as the "Tong Hak" re- 
bellion), which had been reported as suppressed the previous 
June, broke out in a still more dreadful form on the first of 
October (1894). The Korean rebels became a " disorganized 
pillaging mob." Taxes were no longer paid; Korean officials 
were robbed and mutilated or murdered; small parties of the 
Japanese were attacked and tortured to death after the tra- 
ditional manner of the nation. Meantime the Japanese 
forces were quite uniformly victorious both by land and by 
sea; and on October 9th the last of the Chinese forces were 
driven across the Yalu River. A solemn "oath, sworn at the 
royal temple by His Majesty the King of Korea, while he 
worshipped, on the i2th day of the twelfth moon of the five 
hundred and third year of the foundation of Ta Chosen" 
(January 7, 1895), bound him to "give up all idea of subjec- 
tion to China and to labor firmly to establish the independ- 
ence of Korea" ; " to decide all political affairs in council with 

1 The list of these reforms is given in the volume of the U. S. Foreign 
Relations, containing the report sent to the United States by Minister 
Sill, September 24, 1894. 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 217 

his Cabinet"; "to prevent Her Majesty the Queen, his con- 
cubines, and all the royal relations from interfering in affairs 
of state," thus securing a separation between their affairs and 
those of the royal household; and to introduce and foster 
other reforms of a political and educational character. How 
poorly His Majesty kept his solemn oath, the subsequent his- 
tory of his throne and of his nation abundantly shows. 

By the Chino- Japan war the dominating and baleful in- 
fluence of China was for all time removed, and to Korea was 
secured the opportunity for an independent and progressive 
national development under the guidance, and by the assist- 
ance, of Japan. That the Government of Japan honestly 
wished for this good to come to Korea, there is no reasonable 
ground of doubt. That the good did not follow is, however, 
due to the fault of both nations. As regards the character 
and conduct of the average political reformer there is a 
marked similarity between the Japanese and the Koreans. 
Such a one is apt to be over-confident, and even self-con- 
ceited; to have only a scanty acquaintance with the funda- 
mental principles of politics and of statesmanship; to be 
lacking in a judicial estimate of the difficulties to be over- 
come; to make use (often with an apparent preference for 
them) of offensive rather than conciliatory means; and to 
have no adequate apprehension of the value of time, and of 
the necessity of securing time, in order to effect important 
changes in national affairs. Neither has he learned the art 
of compromise in consistency with the maintenance of im- 
portant moral principles. That Japan has not hitherto 
failed in reforming herself as conspicuously as Korea is 
chiefly due, after making proper allowances for the different 
environments of the two nations, to the great difference in 
the character of the two Emperors who have been upon their 
thrones during the period of trial; to the fact that Japan has 
had a body of most conspicuously wise leaders something 



2i8 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Korea has completely lacked ; and to the difference as respects 
the essential spirit of loyalty among the people which the 
feudal system developed in Japan, but which has never been 
to any extent developed in Korea. 

The complete inability of the Korean official to compre- 
hend, or to sympathize with, the motives which led the repre- 
sentatives of Japan first, Mr. Otori and then Count Inouye 
to urge the adoption of administrative reforms may be 
judged by the fact that the King's father, the Tai Won Kun, 
handed to Inouye on his arrival as Minister at Seoul a list of 
sixty persons whom he wished to have forthwith executed in 
order to secure himself in control of affairs. Squabbles for 
power between the party of the Queen and the party of the Tai 
Won Kun therefore continued and even became increasingly 
acute. The Korean hot-head progressives were pushing 
reforms without sufficient regard to the existing conditions. 
But for a time the presence of a :eal statesman as the repre- 
sentative of Japan in Korea kept the evil forces in check. 

Count Inouye's appointment to the post of Minister was 
an eloquent proof of the profound interest which the Japanese 
Government took in Korea, and of its earnest desire to aid 
her in the promotion of domestic reform and progress. On 
the Count's part, personally, the acceptance of such a task, 
difficult and in many ways distasteful, was an exhibition of 
self-sacrificing patriotism, to which the present action of his 
bosom friend and associate, Marquis Ito, affords a striking 
parallel. While striving to reconcile the warring Korean 
factions, he devoted himself to the improvement of adminis- 
trative conditions and to the promotion of the public welfare. 
He attained a measure of success in some directions, and 
would undoubtedly have achieved more lasting success had 
it been possible for him to remain longer in Korea. His 
singleness of purpose was recognized by many Koreans, and 
the sincerity of his endeavors to benefit Korea was acknowl- 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 219 

edged by foreign observers. But the task was too heavy for 
the time he could devote to it. 

Finally, other more imperative duties called Count Inouye 
home, and he was succeeded by Viscount Miura, a man of a 
different stamp. Then followed the murder of the Queen, 
with all its unhappy train of consequences. Although the 
crime was undoubtedly concocted by the Queen's implacable 
enemy, the Tai Won Kun, the Japanese Government never 
sought to evade the share of responsibility imposed upon it. 
The tragedy was a far severer blow to Japanese interests than 
to those of Korea, for the Queen alive, and even still bitterly 
hostile to Japan, could never have worked the harm that the 
manner of her taking-off had caused. And, indeed, while 
apology for this murder from the moral point of view cannot 
be justified, in spite of the cruel character of the victim and 
of the fact that there was then visited upon her only the same 
treatment which she had herself given to scores and hundreds 
of others, when considered from the diplomatic point of view 
the act was even more foolish and reprehensible. 

The following account from Hershey 1 gives in brief, but 
with sufficient detail for our purposes, the events of this 
period : 

The impolitic attempts at hasty and radical reform in Korea, 
which followed the outbreak of the Chino- Japanese war, were 
resisted by the Court party at Seoul, headed by the Queen and the 
Min family to which she belonged. Early in October, 1895, the 
Queen planned a coup d'etat with a view to disbanding the soldiers 
who had been, trained by Japanese officers, and of replacing the 
pro- Japanese partisans of reform in the Korean Cabinet by her 
friends. The result was a counter-plot (in which the King's 
father, the veteran conspirator Tai Won Kun, was a prime mover) 
to seize the King and Queen with the aim of obtaining complete 
control of the Korean Government in interest of the pro- Japanese 

1 International Law and Diplomacy of the Russe-Chincse War, p. 43 /. 



220 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

and reform party. In carrying out this plot (in which the Japan- 
ese Minister Miura seems to have been an accomplice) the Queen 
was murdered by Japanese and Korean ruffians. 

"This disgusting crime," Hershey goes on to say, " al- 
though, it assured the power of the reform Cabinet for the 
time being, reacted upon its perpetrators, and was followed, 
four months later, by another equally revolting, by means 
of which Russia gained control of the Government of Korea. 
In January, 1896, there took place a slight uprising in 
Northern Korea, at the instigation, it was said, of pro- 
Russian leaders. When the major portion of the army had 
been sent out of the capital to suppress the rebellion, 127 
Russian marines with a cannon suddenly landed at Chemulpo 
on February 10, and immediately entered Seoul. The next 
day the King, accompanied by the Crown Prince and some 
court ladies, fled in disguise to the Russian Legation, where 
he remained until February 20, 1897." 

Following this escapade the Prime Minister, Kim Hong 
Chip, a man widely respected and in no way connected with 
the murder of the Queen, and Chung Pyang Ha, equally in- 
nocent of the same crime, were deliberately thrust forth from 
the palace gates into the hands of the waiting mob, which, 
in true Korean fashion, tore them limb from limb. Another 
Minister was killed a few days later in the country. Thus 
ended Japan's attempt to enter into friendly relations with 
Korea while the latter nation was in the anomalous condition 
of an independent dependency of China. Two valuable re- 
sults, however, had been reached: Korea had been defini- 
tively and finally delivered from Chinese control and dominat- 
ing influence; and her own inability to stand alone and to 
inaugurate the needed reforms had been, it would seem, 
quite sufficiently demonstrated. Japan, on the other hand, 
had not as yet shown her ability wisely to inaugurate and 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 221 

effectively to secure these reforms; and by the injudicious 
action of her representative in Korea she had thrown the 
temporary control of the Korean Court into the selfish and 
intriguing hands of other foreigners. The events of the next 
decade, therefore, led logically and irresistibly forward to a 
yet more desperate struggle, at a yet more frightful cost, to 
solve the Korean problem. 



CHAPTER X 
THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL (CONTINUED) 

THE conclusion of the centuries of intricate and unsatis- 
factory relations between these two countries was, to quote 
the words of another, that " Japan saw herself deposed from 
the position in Korea to which her victories entitled her, by 
a nation which appeared to be both an upstart and a usurper 
on the Sea of Japan." For three and a quarter centuries 
Russia had been advancing through Asia at the average rate 
of 20,000 square miles annually; and now, in the endeavor, 
in itself laudable, to secure an outlet on the Pacific for her 
Asiatic possessions, she began extending her customary 
policy over Manchuria and the Peninsula. It is doubtful 
whether the Korean King, when he took refuge in the Russian 
Legation at Seoul, was really alarmed for his personal safety; 
it is certain that he hated intensely the reform measures 
which had been forced upon him, and the men among his 
own subjects who were committed to those measures. His 
life was, however, never in any real danger at this period. 
His presence and his position at the Russian Legation, 
during his entire stay there, was lacking in all semblance of 
royal dignity. He was himself in the virtual custody of a 
foreign power. The different Cabinet Ministers had their 
places assigned in the dining-room of the Legation, behind 
screens; "all except one lucky individual who secured 

1 Hershey, International Law and Diplomacy of the Russo-Chinese 
War, p. 44 /. 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 223 

quarters for his exclusive use in an abandoned out-house 
where wood and coal were usually stored." 

There began now a game of manoeuvring and intrigue in 
which, for some years to come, the Japanese were to be at a 
large disadvantage. The King, who has always shown him- 
self irrevocably committed to the peculiar methods of Korean 
politics, within two weeks of the day on which he had taken 
refuge in the Russian Legation, began secretly communicating 
with the Japanese Minister. The Russian Minister at that 
time, who has been pronounced "probably the most adroit 
representative of her interests whom Russia ever had in 
Korea," proclaimed himself an unwilling victim of the King's 
fear, which he regarded as hysterical, but could not, in com- 
mon decency, fail to respect. The Japanese were in no 
position to resent the insult or to foreguard against the 
menace which all this involved. 

Not unnaturally, the Russian representative undertook 
promptly to avail his country of the especially favorable op- 
portunity for promoting its interests in the Far East which 
was offered by the intimate relations of protection established 
over the Korean Government. For it should never be lost 
out of mind that until years after these events, whoever had 
dominating influence with the Korean monarch controlled, 
in largest measure, the Korean Government. M. Waeber, 
among other material benefits, secured valuable mining and 
timber concessions for his countrymen; it was also, probably, 
due to his influence that the Korean troops which had been 
trained by the Japanese, were disbanded. There then fol- 
lowed a radical change in the policy of Japan, which is de- 
scribed as follows by Hershey: 1 

In the summer of 1896 Japan formally departed from her policy 
of the past two decades of upholding the independence and in- 

1 Ibid., p. 45 /. See also the account of Dr. K. Asakawa, The 
Russo-Japanese Canflictj p. 263 ft. 



224 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

tegrity of Korea by her own efforts, and sought the co-operation 
of Russia toward the same end. On May i4th, the Russian and 
Japanese. Ministers at Seoul concluded a memorandum which 
fixed the number and disposition of Japanese troops in Korea. 
On June 9, 1896, the Yamagata-Lobanoff protocol was signed 
at St. Petersburg. It was thereby agreed: 

(i) That the Japanese and Russian governments should unite in 
advising the Korean Government to suppress all unnecessary expenses 
and to establish an equilibrium between expenditure and revenue. If, 
as a result of reforms which should be considered indispensable, it should 
become necessary to have recourse to foreign debts, the two govern- 
ments should of a common accord render their support to Korea. (2) 
The Japanese and Russian governments should try to abandon to 
Korea, in so far as the financial and economic situation of that country 
should permit, the creation and maintenance of an armed force and of 
a police organized of native subjects, in proportion sufficient to main- 
tain internal order, without foreign aid. (3) Russia was to be per- 
mitted to establish a telegraph line from Seoul to her frontier; the 
Japanese Government being allowed to administer those lines already 
in its possession. (4) In case the principles above expounded require 
a more precise and more detailed definition, or if in the future other 
points should arise about which it should be necessary to consult, the 
representatives of the two governments should be instructed to discuss 
them amicably. 

The Protocol of June, 1896, was no sooner signed than 
Russia proceeded to violate its terms. In the same month 
she tried to gain control of the Korean army by placing it 
under Russian instruction and discipline; in the same year, 
she urged the request that the disposal of all the Korean 
taxes and customs be placed in the hands of M. Kir Alexeieff. 
This plan was partly carried through the following year, and 
Mr. J. McLeavy Brown was dismissed from the position of 
Financial Adviser and General Director of Customs for 
Korea, although he was soon after formally restored to the 
latter office, the control of which he had never been, in fact, 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 225 

induced to surrender. In August of 1897, M. de Speyer 
succeeded M. Waeber as the Representative of Russia (Con- 
seiller d'Etat) in Korea; his conduct of Russian affairs, which 
seems to have been quite devoid of the conciliatory policy of 
his predecessor, lost for his country many of the advantages 
which had already been secured. Besides the inducement 
from this fact, the recent acquisition of Port Arthur and 
Ta-lien-wan seemed to make it desirable for Russia, for the 
time being at least, to conciliate Japan. And Japan, on her 
part, definitively committed herself to the effort to conciliate 
Russia, while at the same time safeguarding her own im- 
portant, and indeed essentially vital, interests in the Penin- 
sula. Accordingly there was concluded between the two na- 
tions the Nishi-Rosen Protocol of August 25, 1898. 
That instrument was as follows: 

ARTICLE I. The Imperial governments of Japan and Russia 
definitely recognize the sovereignty and entire independence of 
Korea, and mutually engage to abstain from all direct inter- 
ference in the affairs of that country. 

ARTICLE II. Desiring to remove every possible cause of mis- 
understanding in the future, the Imperial goverrfments of Japan 
and Russia mutually engage not to take any measure regarding 
the nomination of military instructors and financial advisers with- 
out having previously arrived at a mutual accord on the subject. 

ARTICLE III. In view of the great development of the com- 
mercial and industrial enterprise of Japan in Korea, as also the 
considerable number of Japanese subjects residing in that country, 
the Russian Imperial Government shall not impede the development 
of commercial and industrial relations between Japan and Korea. 

Five days later namely, on August 3oth Marquis Ito, 
who was- visiting in Korea, and had been cordially received 
by the Emperor and invited to dine with him, publicly re- 
affirmed the policy for which His Imperial Majesty of Japan 
and he himself, as His Majesty's subject, wished to be respon- 



226 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

sible, in a speech delivered at a dinner given at the Foreign 
Office. On that occasion the Marquis spoke as follows: 

YOUR EXCELLENCIES AND GENTLEMEN: 

I thank you sincerely for the kind words in which the Acting 
Minister of Foreign Affairs has just addressed me on your behalf, 
but at the same time I am constrained to say that I do not de- 
serve the high compliments which he chose to confer upon me. 
Allow me to avail myself of the present opportunity to say a few 
words concerning the attitude of Japan toward this country. 
You doubtless know that in 1873 a group of Japanese statesmen 
advocated the despatch of a punitive expedition to Korea, a pro- 
posal to which I was uncompromisingly opposed from the outset, 
because I deemed such a war not only uncalled for, but contrary 
to the principles of humanity. You may imagine the magnitude 
of the excitement occasioned by this question, when I tell you 
that the split which it caused in the ranks of the Japanese states- 
men led to a tremendous civil war a few years afterward. The 
point to which I wish to direct your attention is that His Imperial 
Japanese Majesty's Government did not hesitate to reject what 
it considered to be an unjust proposal even at such gigantic risk. 

Japan's policy toward Korea has since been unchanged; in 
other words, her object has always been to assist and befriend 
this country. It is true that at times incidents of an unpleasant 
nature unfortunately interfered with the maintenance of un- 
suspecting cordiality between the two nations. But I may 
conscientiously assure you that the real object of the Japanese 
Government has always been to render assistance to Korea in 
her noble endeavors to be a civilized and independent state. 

I am sincerely gratified to see that to-day Korea is independent 
and sovereign. Henceforth it will be Japan's wish to see Korea's 
independence further strengthened and Consolidated; no other 
motive shall influence Japan's conduct toward this country. On 
this point you need not entertain the slightest doubt. 

Japan's good wishes for Korean independence are all the more 
sincere and reliable because her vital interests are bound up with 
those of your country. A danger to Korean independence will 



THE PROBLEM; HISTORICAL 227 

be a danger to Japan's safety. So you will easily recognize that 
the strongest of human motives, namely self-interest, combines 
with neighborly feelings to make Japan a sincere well-wisher and 
friend of Korean independence. 

Let me repeat once more that Korea may rest assured of the 
absence of all sinister motives on Japan's part. Friendship be- 
tween two countries in the circumstances of Japan and Korea 
ought to be free from any trace of suspicion and doubt as to each 
other's motives and intentions. In conclusion, allow me to express 
my heartfulhope that you may long remain in office and assiduously 
exert yourselves for the good of your sovereign and country. 

With the coming of M. Pavloff to Korea as its Representa- 
tive, in December, 1898, the diplomacy of Russia in this part 
of the Orient abandoned the traditional method of patient, 
persistent effort at advance, together with more or less per- 
fect assimilation of the new tribes and peoples brought under 
its control, and adopted the more brilliant but dangerous 
policy of a swift promotion of obviously selfish schemes by 
a mixture of threats and cajolery. It is not even now certain 
how far this policy was supported by, or even known to, the 
home government of Russia. The war with Japan, to which 
these acts led steadily and irresistibly forward, seemed, only 
in its actual results, to reveal at all fully to this Government 
what its representatives had been doing in the Far East. 

Among the various attempts of M. Pavloff and his co- 
adjutors to obtain concessions for themselves and for their 
country, those which looked toward the establishment of a 
Russian naval base in certain localities of the Korean coast 
were threatening to Japan. " But Russia's conduct on the 
Northern frontier of Korea along the Tumen and Yalu 
rivers was" to quote again from Hershey "the greatest 
source of anxiety to Japan." 

In 1896 Russia had obtained valuable mining concessions in 
two districts near the port of Kiong-hung at the mouth of the 



22$ IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Tumen River, and later sought to extend her influence in that 
region. More important and dangerous, however, to the interests 
of Japan were the attempts of Russia to obtain an actual foothold 
on Korean territory at Yong-am-po on the Korean side of the 
Yalu River. As far back as 1896, when the King was a guest of 
the Russian Legation, a Russian merchant had obtained timber 
concessions on the Uining Island in the Sea of Japan and on the 
Tumen and Yalu rivers. The concession along the Yalu was to 
be forfeited unless work was begun within five years in the other 
two regions. This condition does not appear to have been com- 
plied with when the Korean Government was suddenly notified 
on April 13, 1903, that the Russian timber syndicate would at 
once begin the work of cutting timber on the Yalu. Early in May 
sixty Russian soldiers in civilian dress, later increased by several 
hundred more, were reported to have occupied Yong-am-po, a 
point rather remote from the place where actual cutting was in 
progress. At the same time there was taking place a mysterious 
mobilization of troops from Liaoyang and Port Arthur toward 
Feng-hwang-cheng and Antung on the other side of the Yalu. 
Early in June four Russian warships paid a week's visit to Che- 
mulpo. In August M. Pavloff appears to have been on the point 
of obtaining an extension of the Yong-am-po lease, but this was 
prevented by the receipt of an ultimatum from the Japanese Min- 
ister. Mr. Hayashi threatened that if the Korean Government 
were to sign such a lease, Japan would regard diplomatic relations 
between the two countries as suspended, and would regard herself 
as free to act in her own interests. 

In this connection it should be said, that while the Korean 
Government did not formally renew the lease, the Emperor 
did secretly enter into an arrangement with M. Pavloff con- 
cerning Yong-am-po, practically conceding all that was 
asked on Russia's behalf. This document was discovered 
after the war began and hastily cancelled by the Emperor, of 
his own accord, upon the recommendation of the Korean 
Minister for Foreign Affairs. 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 229 

Meantime another conflict of interests between Russia and 
Japan was developing and contributing to the same result 
namely, the Russo-Japanese war. This was the so-called 
"Manchurian Question." It is not necessary for the 
purposes of our narrative to trace with any detail the origin 
and different stages of that succession of successful intrigues 
and encroachments upon foreign territory which had been 
for some time carried on with the Chinese by methods similar 
to those now being employed in Korea. Some of the more 
salient points in the history of the preceding period of nearly 
a half-century need, however, to be called to mind. In 1860, 
when the allied forces occupied Peking, the Russian Minister, 
General Ignatieff, by a brilliant stroke of diplomacy, secured 
for his country the cession of the maritime province . of 
Manchuria, with 600 miles of coast, and the harbor of 
Vladivostok, down to the mouth of the Tumen. For this 
he gave nothing in return beyond the pretence that it was in 
his power to bring pressure upon the allies and thus secure 
their more speedy evacuation of the Chinese capital. 

Thirty years later, after the new province had been devel- 
oped and the harbor of Vladivostok converted into a powerful 
fortress, Russia determined upon building an all-rail route 
across Siberia, and immediately began to press for other 
concessions in Chinese territory that in 1897 resulted in the 
association which constructed what is now known as the 
Manchurian Railway. This enterprise was ostensibly a 
joint affair of the two countries; but it has been fitly described 
as "only a convenient bonnet"- for an essentially Russian 
undertaking. Russian engineers now came in large numbers 
to Manchuria; Russian Cossacks accompanied them for pur- 
poses of their protection. Later in the same year the seizure 
by Germany of Kiao-chau, in satisfaction for outrages com- 
mitted upon German missionaries, was followed by Russia's 
request to the Chinese Government for permission to winter 



2 3 o IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

her fleet at Port Arthur. In March of the next year Japan 
had the added mortification, bitterness, and cause for alarm, 
of seeing Russia demand and obtain from China a formal 
lease of the same commercial and strategic points of the 
peninsula of Liao-tung of which Russia, by combining with 
Germany and France, had deprived Japan when she had 
won them by conquest in war. These enterprises in Man- 
churia were financed by the Russo-Chinese Bank, an institu- 
tion which had recently been founded in the Far East as a 
branch of the Russian Ministry of Finance. So important 
is this last-mentioned fact that one writer places upon M. 
Pokotiloff, Chief of the Russo-Chinese Bank in Berlin, the 
responsibility for the whole Port Arthur episode, and de- 
clares it was he who dictated the policy of Russia in Man- 
churia after the Boxer uprising. 1 

The occupation o. Port Arthur and Ta-lien-wan (renamed 
Dalny) was accompanied by assurances from the Russian 
Government chiefly designed to quiet Great Britain and 
Japan that it had "no intention of infringing the rights and 
privileges guaranteed by existing treaties between China and 
foreign countries;" and that no interference with Chinese 
sovereignty was contemplated. To the objections raised 
when it proceeded to fortify Port Arthur, the reply was made 
that Russia "must have a safe harbor for her fleet, which 
could not be at the mercy of the elements at Vladivostok or 
dependent upon the good-will of Japan." Under this plea 
she refused to change the status of Port Arthur as a closed 
and principally military port. The effect of all this upon the 
attitude of public feeling in Japan toward Russia can easily 
be imagined. Even when, in August, 1899, the port of 
Dalny was declared " open " by an Imperial ukase, regulations 
with respect to passports and claims to a monopoly of mining 

1 So Mr. Whigham, in his admirable book on Manchuria and Korea. 
(London, Isbiter & Company), p. 123. 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 231 

rights continued to lessen the confidence of other nations in 
Russia's good faith with respect to the occupation of Man- 
churia. It is now sufficiently well established that during 
this period secret agreements between Li Hung Chang and 
the Russian Government were made which enlarged the 
special privileges of Russia in Manchuria. Meantime, also, 
her military hold was being strengthened ; so that by Decem- 
ber, 1898, she had 20,000 men at her two ports, while Cossack 
guards " the pennons on their lances showing a combination 
of the Russian colors and the Chinese dragon" were 
patrolling the railway line and protecting the work of fortifica- 
tion at Port Arthur. 

During these years the Japanese Government was watching 
with quiet but painful solicitude the movements going forward 
in China. When Marquis Ito visited Peking and the Yang- 
tse provinces in the summer of 1898, he was received with 
marked attention, especially by the reform party among the 
leading Chinese officials; but the baleful influence of the 
Dowager-Empress, and of the party opposed to everything 
likely to curtail their power, arrested the attempts at rap- 
prochement between China and Japan. It was the so-called 
"Boxer Movement," however, which gave to Russia a new 
claim of right to interfere in Chinese affairs and to establish 
more firmly than ever before her special privileges in Man- 
churia. The history of this movement of the way in which 
Russia dealt with its extension into Manchuria, of the siege 
of Peking and the doings of the allied forces, and of the subse- 
quent behavior of the Russians with regard to the evacuation 
of Manchuria is now well known, or easily accessible, by 
all students of the period. 

In spite of repeated promises to evacuate the points seized* 
and held by Russian forces when, after the relief of the Lega- 
tions, these forces were withdrawn from Peking and Chi-li 
to be concentrated in Manchuria, and in disregard of the 



232 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

interests of the other allies, the policy of keeping all that 
she had gained, and of gaining more as far as possible, was 
steadily pursued by Russia,, On November n, 1900, an 
agreement was made between the Representative of Admiral 
Alexeieff and the Tartar General at Mukden, the most 
significant point of which was the promise of the Chinese 
official to provide the Russian troops with lodging and pro- 
visions, to disarm and disband all Chinese soldiers and hand 
over all arms and ammunition to the Russians, and to dis- 
mantle all forts and defences not occupied by the Russians. 

It was the probable effect of a continued occupation of 
Manchuria by Russia upon their business interests which led 
Great Britain and America to wish that the repeated Russian 
assurances of good faith toward China and toward all foreign 
nations should manifest themselves in works. The case 
could not be wholly the same with Japan. Her interests of 
trade were, indeed, if not at the time so large, more close and 
vital than those of any other nation outside of China. But 
her other interests were incomparable. So that when Russia 
failed to carry out her engagements, even under a convention 
which was so much in her favor, there was a revival of sus- 
picion and apprehension on the part of the Japanese Govern- 
ment -and the Japanese people. Manchuria and Korea both 
pointed an index finger of warning directed toward Russia. 

It was to further a peaceful adjustment of all the disturbed 
condition of the interests of Russia and Japan in the Far East 
that Marquis Ito went, on his way home from his visit to the 
United States, at the end of 1901, on an unofficial mission to 
St. Petersburg. The failure of the overtures which he bore 
discouraged those of the leading Japanese statesmen who 
-were hoping for some reconciliation which might take the 
shape of allowing Russian ascendency in Manchuria and 
Japanese ascendency in Korea. It also strengthened the 
conviction which prevailed among the younger statesmen that 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 233 

the St. Petersburg Government regarded Manchuria as not 
only its fortress in the Far East, but also as its path to the 
peninsula lying within sight of Japan's shores. " The 
Japanese Government," says Mr. D. W. Stevens, "at last 
felt that the vital interests of Japan might be irrevocably 
jeopardized in Korea as well as in Manchuria, if it continued 
to remain a mere passive spectator of Russian encroachments; 
and in August, 1903, it resolved to take a decisive step. In 
the most courteous form and through the usual diplomatic 
channels Japan intimated at St. Petersburg that her voice 
must be heard, and listened to, in connection with Far 
Eastern questions in which her interests were vitally con- 
cerned." The answer of Russia was the appointment of 
Admiral Alexeieff as Viceroy over the Czar's possessions in 
the Far East, with executive and administrative powers of a 
semi-autocratic character. 

But let us return to Korea and inquire: What was the 
policy with which its Emperor and his Court met the exceed- 
ingly critical situation into which the country was being forced 
by the conflict going on between Russia and Japan both 
within, and just outside of, its borders? The answer is not 
dubious. It was the policy, in yet more aggravated form, 
of folly, weakness, intrigue, and corruption, both in the 
administration of internal affairs and also in the management 
of the now very delicate foreign relations. The Emperor 
was to use the descriptive phrase of another enjoying "an 
orgy of independence." The former restraints which had been 
imposed upon him by Chinese domination, by the personal 
influence of the Tai Won Kun, or of the Queen, by his fears of 
the reformers, and even by any passive emotional impulses of 
his own, leading to reformation, were now all removed. While 
he was a "guest" at the Russian Legation there was certainly 
no direct influence exerted by his hosts, to assist, advise, or 
guide him into better ways. It was not the policy of Russia to 



234 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

effect at least for the present or immediately prospective 
occasion any moral betterment of the administration of 
Korean home and foreign affairs. Under the regency of his 
father, the Government had been cruel, despotic, and mur- 
derous toward both native and foreign Christians. But the 
Tai Won Kun had some regard for ancient common laws 
and usages. Under him the people were reasonably sure of 
such rights, protection, and privileges of public domain, as 
their ancestors had enjoyed. The public granaries were kept 
full against the time of famine. The timber and fire-wood on 
the hills was not given over to any one who could bribe or 
cajole the corrupt officials; and the line of demarcation be- 
tween royal and popular rights was more clearly drawn and 
better understood. But now all this was changed for the 
worse. The King declared himself the sole and private 
owner to dispose of as he saw fit of all the properties which 
had formerly been considered as belonging to the state. 
Low-born favorites appropriated or laid waste the public 
domain. The country's resources were wasted; the people 
were subjected to new and irregular exactions, levied by ir- 
regular people for illegal purposes. A succession of the most 
consummate rascals which ever afflicted any country came 
into virtual control. They were endowed with offices pur- 
chased or extorted from the head ruler. Eunuchs were sent 
out from the palace on "still hunts," so to speak, to discover 
any kind of property which, by any pretext whatever, could 
be claimed; and to seize such property in the name of His 
Majesty, or of the King's concubine, Lady Om, or of some 
one of the Imperial Princes. Laws which were intended to 
promote the ends of justice were twisted from their purpose 
and made to serve the ends of plunder. Such privileges as 
that of coining and counterfeiting the currency were sold to 
private persons. 

Then began also that squandering of the nation's most 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 235 

valuable resources which, under the name of "concessions" 
to foreigners who generally allied themselves for this end with 
corrupt Korean officials, has continued down, to the present 
time; and the adjustment of which is still giving the Resident- 
General and his judicial advisers some of their most serious 
problems. To quote the description of this period by a dis- 
tinguished foreigner, long in the Korean service: "Nothing 
in this country is safe from the horde which surrounds His 
Majesty and seemingly has his confidence. Public office is 
bought and sold without even the pretence of concealment. 
Officials share with the palace the plunder which they extort 
from the people. So and So (naming a prominent Korean 
Official) is said to owe his influence there largely to the fact 
that out of every ten thousand yen which he collects he sur- 
renders seven thousand to the Emperor, retaining only three 
for himself. With his colleagues it is usually the other way, 
about." According to the same authority, many kinds of 
property which were formerly regarded as belonging to the 
state were now being appropriated to the Emperor's use, or 
to that of his favorites, without any pretext, under the rule 
that "might makes right." Torturing, strangling, and de- 
capitation, were no infrequent methods of accomplishing the 
imperial will; though it should be said that these favors were 
somewhat impartially distributed. Sometimes it was the 
secret strangling in prison of such patriots as An Kyun-su and 
Kwan Yung-chin, on the night of May 27, 1900 than which, 
it has truly been said, "no more dastardly crime ever stained 
the annals of this or any other government " : sometimes it was 
the torturing and execution of such unspeakable rascals as the 
ex-court-favorites, Kim Yung-chun (1901), Yi Yong-ik, and 
Yi Keun-tak (1902). In a word, the period of " independence" 
to which the Emperor has been lately imploring his own 
subjects and the civilized world to restore him, was the period 
in which he took what, and gave away what, and did what he 



236 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

chose, under the basest influences, for the most worthless or 
mischievous ends, without law or pretence of justice or goodness 
oj heart, to the lasting disgrace and essential ruin of the nation. 

Such is a summary of the doings during the years preceding 
the Russo-Japanese war, on the part of the Korean Emperor 
and his Court. "Through all this period," says Mr. Hulbert, 1 
" Russian influence was quietly at work securing its hold upon 
the Korean Court and upon such members of the government 
as it could win over. The general populace was always 
suspicious of her, however, and always preferred the rougher 
hand of Japan to the soft but heavy hand of Russia." The 
threatening nature of the situation created by these Russian 
encroachments was as well understood at Washington and 
London as at Tokyo. It was intimately connected with the 
Manchurian question to the untangling of which Mr. Hay 
had devoted so much thought. 

But Russia's action in Manchuria, threatening as it was to 
the interests, not alone of Japan but also of other foreign 
powers, did not call upon the Japanese Government for armed 
interference. 2 As the behavior of Japan showed during the 
Boxer troubles in China, she had learned caution with respect 
to fighting the battles of civilized Europe and America, at her 
own expense and without show of gratitude from others. 

As we have already seen, the most threatening feature of 
the situation for Japan was Russia's activity upon the Yalu, 
especially at Yong-am-po. In the interests of peace Mr. Hay 
supplemented his efforts to maintain the principle of the open 
door and equal opportunity in Manchuria, by an earnest 
endeavor (which had Lord Lansdowne's cordial support) to 
fend off the impending quarrel between Japan and Russia. 
Since all the Treaty Powers were interested in the matter of 

1 The Passing of Korea, p. 167. 

2 See on this and allied points, the lecture delivered by Mr. Rock- 
hill, at the United States Naval War College, Newport, August 5, 1904. 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 237 

treaty ports in Korea, the method that most readily sug- 
gested itself was the opening of Wiju and Yong-am-po, 
which would remove any question of the latter place being 
used as a military or naval base. The request was reasonable 
from every point of view, since Wiju, as the market town, and 
Yong-am-po, as the port, were naturally the complement, on 
the Korean side of the Yalu, of Antung then recently declared 
an open port on the Manchurian. Indeed, other considera- 
tions apart, some such action was imperatively necessary from 
the Korean standpoint, inasmuch as an open port in Chinese 
territory, without a corresponding port of entry in neighboring 
Korean territory, could not fail to be prejudicial to the inter- 
ests of Korea. Accordingly the American and British 
representatives at Seoul were instructed to urge upon the 
Korean Government the necessity of opening these ports. 

This was done, but the attempt to persuade the Emperor 
met with strenuous opposition on M. Pavloff's part, and 
finally failed, apparently because of the incapacity of His 
Majesty's nearest advisers to grasp the real significance of the 
crisis and the momentous effect which the decision must have 
upon Korea's fortunes. The struggle was a fierce one while 
it lasted and, among other minor results, led to the resigna- 
tion of the Minister for Foreign Affairs. The gentleman who 
succeeded him, as Acting Minister, was disposed to favor 
the opening of the ports, in spite of the strong opposition of 
the palace coterie. He went so far as to prepare letters to the 
foreign representatives declaring the ports open, and was 
actually about sending them out, on his own responsibility, 
when he was stopped, partly by a peremptory order from the 
palace, and partly by the persuasion of his friends who 
represented to him the great personal danger he would incur 
by such a step. 

The narrative of this official throws a curious side-light 
upon M. Pavloff's methods and shows in an interesting way 



238 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

his persistence, even at a time when the correspondence be- 
tween Russia and Japan preceding the war had reached a 
critical stage, in endeavoring by every means at his command 
to carry through the very intrigue which formed the gravamen 
of Japan's strongest reason for complaining. It is easy, in the 
light of what has happened, to condemn this action; but 
even at the time it must have seemed to impartial observers 
more like the infatuation of a desperate gambler than the well- 
considered moves of a shrewd diplomatist. It was all done, 
too, in support of a transparent subterfuge, namely: that 
Russia had no arrangement with Korea which gave to the 
proposed use of Yong-am-po any other character than that of 
an entirely peaceful occupation for legitimate commercial 
purposes; and that her agents had done absolutely nothing 
in the way of preparing the place for military occupation. 
When he was urging upon the Acting Minister for Foreign 
Affairs reasons for not opening Yong-am-po, the latter en- 
quired: "Why have you staked off such a large extent of 
territory, and why are you building a fort?" M. Pavloff 
instantly denied in emphatic terms that anything of the kind 
had been done. "For the past ten days," quietly replied the 
Korean official, "I have had two men whom I trust thoroughly 
on the spot, and my question is the result of telegraphic 
reports I have received from them." The interview did not 
continue, but within forty-eight hours his scouts reported to 
the Acting Minister that all the stakes had been removed, 
There had not been time, they said, thoroughly to remove all 
traces of works upon the fortifications, but that as much of 
the works as possible had been levelled and the whole covered 
up with loose earth, tree-trunks and branches. Such 
effrontery seems incredible; but these are facts, and others 
like them equally typical of M. Pavloff's methods could be 
recited. It is doubtful whether even his own government 
knew all the circumstances, or was fully aware, until it was 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 239 

too late, what he had done and was continuing to do to arouse 
Japanese suspicion and resentment. 

The negotiations having in view the peaceful adjustment 
of the conflicting interests of Russia and Japan in the Far 
East, which were begun by the latter country* in the summer 
of 1903, were further continued. Mr. Kurino, the Japanese 
Minister at St. Petersburg, was informed by Baron Komura, 
who was then Japanese Minister of Foreign Affairs, that the 
recent conduct of Russia at Peking, in Manchuria, and in 
Korea, was the cause of grave concern to the Government at 
Tokyo. "The unconditional and permanent occupation of 
Manchuria by Russia would," said Baron Komura, "create 
a state of things prejudicial to the security and interests of 
Japan. The principle of equal opportunity would thereby 
be annulled, and the territorial integrity of China be im- 
paired. There is, however, a still more serious consideration 
for the Japanese Government; that is to say, if Russia was 
established on the flank of Korea it would be a constant 
menace to the separate existence of that empire, or at least 
would make Russia the dominant power in Korea. But 
Korea is an important outpost in Japan's line of defence, and 
Japan consequently considers its independence absolutely 
essential to her own repose and safety. Moreover, the 
political as well as the commercial and industrial interests 
and influence which Japan possesses in Korea are paramount 
over those of other Powers. These interests and this influ- 
ence Japan, having regard to her own security, cannot consent 
to surrender to, or share with, another Power." 

In view of these reasons, Mr. Kurino was instructed to 
present the following note to Count Lamsdorff, the Russian 
Minister of Foreign Affairs: "The Japanese Government 
desires to remove from the relations of the two empires 
every cause of future misunderstanding, and believes that 
the Russian Government shares the same desire. The 



240 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Japanese Government would therefore be glad to enter with 
the Russian Imperial Government upon an examination of 
the condition of affairs in the regions of the extreme East, 
where their interests meet, with a view of denning their 
respective special interests in those regions. If this sug- 
gestion fortunately meets with the approval, in principle, of 
the Russian Government, the Japanese Government will 
be prepared to present to the Russian Government their 
views as to the nature and scope of the proposed under- 
standing." 

* The consent of Count Lamsdorff and the Czar having been 
obtained, on August 1 2th articles were prepared and sub- 
mitted by the Japanese Government which it wished to have 
serve as a basis of understanding between the two countries. 
The essential agreements to be secured by these articles 
were: (i) A mutual engagement to respect the independence 
and territorial integrity of the Chinese and Korean empires, 
and to maintain the "open door" in these countries; and (2) 
a reciprocal recognition of Japan's preponderating interests 
in Korea and of Russia's special interests in Manchuria. 
These demands were not altered in any very important way 
by Japan during all the subsequent negotiations. It was 
their persistent rejection by Russia, together with her long 
delays in replying while she was meantime making obvious 
preparations of a warlike character, which precipitated the 
tremendous conflict that followed some months later. In 
her first reply with counter proposals which was made nearly 
eight weeks later through Baron Rosen, the Russian Minister 
at Tokyo, Russia not only reduced Japan's demands regard- 
ing Korea, but even proposed new restrictions upon her in that 
country. But what was equally significant, the counter- 
proposals took no account of the demand for an agreement 
as to the independence and territorial integrity of the Chinese 
empire, or as to the policy of the "open door" in Man- 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 241 

churia and Korea. On the contrary, they required Japan 
expressly to recognize Manchuria as "in all respects outside 
her sphere of interest." Meantime Russia was increasing 
her commercial and military activity in both the territorial 
spheres where the question of interests and rights was under 
dispute. 

In the second overture of October 3oth, several important 
concessions were made by Japan, to which on December nth 
Russia replied with a repetition of the former counter- 
proposal omitting, however, the offensive clause regarding 
Manchuria and inserting the Japanese proposal relating to 
the connection of the Korean and the Chinese-Eastern rail- 
ways. Ten days later the Japanese Government presented 
a third overture in which Baron Komura tried to make it 
clear to the Russian Government that Japan desired "to 
bring within the purview of the proposed arrangement all 
those regions in the Far East where the interests of the two 
empires meet." But when the reply of Russia was received 
in Tokyo on January 6, 1904, it was found that not only was 
there no mention made of the territorial integrity of China 
in Manchuria, but that Russia again insisted upon Japan's 
regarding the "Manchurian Question" and the littoral of 
Manchuria as quite outside her sphere of interest. Russia, 
indeed, agreed "not to impede Japan or the other Powers in 
the enjoyment of the rights and privileges acquired by them 
under existing treaties with China, exclusive of the establish- 
ment of settlements" ; but only on condition that Japan would 
agree not to use any part of the territory of Korea for strateg- 
ical purposes, and also to the establishment of a neutral 
zone in Northern itorea! In spite of the fact that the two 
governments were still as far apart as at the beginning in 
regard to the most vital points of interest, Japan made 
another and fourth attempt. This overture was presented 
to Count Lamsdorff on January i3th and, in spite of the urgent 



242 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

request for an early reply, this did not come until February 7, 
the day following the severing of diplomatic relations between 
the two countries. Negotiations were then ended; appeal was 
now made to the "arbitrament of war," so-called. 

It is not our purpose to discuss in detail the question of 
rights, as involved in these negotiations, whether from the 
political or the moral point of view, or to consider whether 
Japan's method of initiating hostilities was in accordance 
with law, or with precedent as established, if such it can be 
said to be, by the usage of civilized nations. In both regards 
we believe, however, that the claims of Japan to have the 
right upon her side are in all important particulars defensible. 
But having begun the war with Russia it can be seen that to 
secure free passage for her troops through Korea, and to 
secure Korea in the rear of her troops as they passed to the 
front, were necessities imposed upon Japan in a yet more ab- 
solute and indisputable fashion than was the undertaking of 
the war itself. If it was necessary in order to maintain the 
integrity and free, peaceful development of Japan that, all 
other means having failed, she should resort to arms in the 
effort to check the dangerous encroachments of Russia in 
Manchuria and Korea, it was immediately and essentially 
necessary for any measure of success in this last resort, that 
she should gain and hold control over the conduct of the 
Korean Court and the Korean populace during the war. 
What were the nature and the habitual modes of behavior of 
both Court and people has already been made clear; 'more 
information on these subjects will be afforded in subsequent 
chapters. As to danger of treachery we may note in pass- 
ing that, while friendship was being protested to the face of 
the Japanese in Korea, a boat was picked up in the Yellow 
Sea, late in January, 1904 that is, a few days before the 
outbreak of the war which bore a Korean messenger with a 
letter to Port Arthur asking for Russian troops to be sent to 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 243 

Korea. The resort to valuable concessions as a bribe for 
foreign influence became at once, on the beginning of hostili- 
ties, more active even than before. On this latter point we 
quote the words of Mr. D. W. Stevens: 

The outbreak of the war created a veritable storm of terror in 
the ranks of Korean officialdom. Many of its members who were 
known as Russian sympathizers fled to the country; a few took 
refuge in the houses of foreign friends. Palace circles were in 
particular profoundly agitated. There was a curious manifesta- 
tion of the trend of the Korean official mind toward the belief 
that political support can be bought. Those were golden days for 
the foreigner who, willing to trade upon Korean ignorance and 
credulity, cared to let it be understood, either openly or tacitly, 
that his government would appreciate favors shown to himself. 
One foreign minister was surprised by the offer of a mining con- 
cession which before that he had unsuccessfully tried to obtain. 
Having due regard for his own and his country's reputation he 
naturally declined. Others, private individuals, were not so 
scrupulous; and there are to-day extant exceptionally favorable 
public grants, both claimed and actually enjoyed, which were thus, 
as it has been put, " obtained in the shadow of the war." 

At this time the Emperor was dominated by the influence 
of a courtier named Yi Yong-ik, whose foreign affiliations 
were wholly Russian. The Palace coterie, even including 
this man's bitter political enemies, was almost entirely pro- 
Russian. But the Emperor was also, of course, much afraid 
of the Japanese, who were now near at hand, whereas the 
Russians and their Korean coadjutors had either fled the 
country or gone into retirement. For the time being, there- 
fore, Japan had control of the Imperial environment. Mean- 
time, one of two courses only seemed open to the Japanese 
themselves: they could either set aside the Emperor and his 
untrustworthy officials, and assume complete control of 
Korean affairs; or they could make some sort of arrange- 



244 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

ment which would secure an alliance with Korea. If faithful 
to this alliance, the Emperor would be assured of his personal 
safety and of his throne; and the country would be placed 
definitively under Japanese protection. The leaders in Japan 
knew perfectly well that His Korean Majesty was anti- 
Japanese and characteristically false and treacherous; but 
they hoped by moderation to win him over to at least a 
partial and temporary fulfilment of the obligations under 
which he would be placed by the adoption of the more 
friendly course. 

There were also military reasons why a sort of protectorate 
and alliance seemed necessary; and if possible in a way to 
avoid the troubles of a forcible annexation. For, very special 
and momently imminent dangers threatened the construction 
and use of the railway by which the Japanese were transport- 
ing their troops and supplies through Korea to the seat of the 
war. In several instances armed attacks were made upon 
the workmen and the track was torn up. In another con- 
nection it will be shown that the charge of extreme cruelty 
and wholesale slaughter made by Mr. Hulbert 1 (and illustrated 
by a picture designed to excite pathos), because the Japanese 
military authorities executed some of the leaders of these 
dangerous riots, is quite unwarranted by the facts. The 
same thing may be said of the charge that the Po-an, or 
" Society for the Promotion of Peace and Safety," was illegally 
and wantonly suppressed by the Japanese in July of 1904. 
The simple truth is that this society bore about the same 
relation to the cause of "peace and safety" which has been 
borne during the past two years by the several associations 
for intrigue and murder which have masqueraded under titles 
suggestive of the most noble schemes for promoting the in- 
terests of patriotism, education, morals and religion. It 
must be either a dull or a prejudiced mind, indeed, that can 

1 The Passing of Korea, p. 210 /. 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL , 245 

take in the atmosphere of Korean politics for even a few 
months not to say, years of residence in the land, and 
not understand the threatening significance of these associa- 
tions. On the other hand, the question of propriety in dealing 
summarily with those who persist in tearing up the tracks 
of a military road in time of war may confidently be left to 
those who are experienced in such matters. 

Indeed, with regard to the entire conduct of affairs by the 
Japanese during this period, we may ask the question, and 
give the answer, of Mr. Whigham: 1 "What, then, is 
Japan to do? Is she to sit down and watch the Russian 
flood descending on her fields without attempting to set up a 
barrier? The answer is very simple. Japan must take 
Korea and do it very quickly, too." 

It was such a situation of extreme peril and emergency 
which compelled the Japanese Government to secure formal 
recognition in an agreement with the Korean Government 
so far as such a thing as government then existed in Korea 
that should admit of no misunderstanding. This necessity 
gave rise to the Conventions of February 23, 1904, and of 
August 22 of the same year. The latter of these conven- 
tions was the logical sequence and supplement of the former. 
By the first of the Protocols 2 it was designed to secure neces- 
sary reforms in the administration of Korea and, besides, such 
an alliance between the two governments that Japan should 
guard the Korean Emperor and his people against foreign 
.aggressions in the future and secure for herself the furtherance 
of her military operations against Russia. Of more perma- 
nent importance still was the prevention in the future of all 
such experiences as she had passed through in 1894-1895, and 
was passing through at the present time. The Convention 
of February, however, was no sooner concluded than His 

1 Manchuria and Korea, p. 119. 

2 See Appendix A for its text. 



246 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Majesty began plotting to prevent its going into effect. With 
the conduct of military matters he was indeed powerless to 
interfere; but every attempt at reform met with either his 
passive resistance or open opposition. This attitude of his 
made necessary the additional provisions stipulated in the 
supplementary Protocol of August 22, igozj.. 1 In this, pro- 
vision was made for the appointment by the Korean Govern- 
ment of a Japanese recommended by the Japanese Government 
as "Financial Adviser," and of some foreigner, also to be 
recommended by the Japanese Government, as " Adviser to 
the Department of Foreign Affairs." The appointees to these 
positions were Mr. Megata and Mr. D. W. Stevens. 

But still the intrigue and treachery of His Majesty went on. 
In spite of the excellent service of Mr. Megata in straightening 
out the confusion of the Korean finances, and in utter dis- 
regard of Mr. Stevens' advices and endeavors to make the 
new Protocols both appear, and actually to be, greatly to the 
advantage of the Emperor and of his country, the imperial 
ways remained unchanged. His own Foreign Ministers were 
either disregarded or made tools of intrigue. Even after the 
Treaty of November, 1905, His Majesty sent secret telegrams 
from the Palace ordering the Foreign Ministers of other 
Governments to pay no attention to the directions of his own 
Minister of Foreign Affairs, while the latter was arranging 
for the closing of the Legations according to the terms of the 
Treaty. During the entire war he was in secret communica- 
tion with Japan's enemies, while claiming Japan's protection 
under the Protocols of February and August, 1904. This 
treacherous correspondence was carried on through emissaries 
at Shanghai; and large sums of money, which the Japanese 
Financial Adviser had somehow to provide, were wasted 
upon these futile efforts to change the course of events. 
Indeed, in this correspondence and in the distribution of this 

1 See Appendix B. 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 247 

money, it is probable that the chief agent in Shanghai was 
the same person as the chief agent of Russia herself. 

The subsequent history of the relations of Japan and 
Korea, as these relations resulted through the events of July, 
1907, in establishing a protectorate which placed all important 
Korean affairs, both internal and foreign, under the control 
of the Japanese Resident -General, cannot be understood or 
judged without keeping the necessity and the significance 
of these Protocols steadily in mind. Of the Convention of 
February, 1904, Lawrence significantly says: 1 

Japan took the earliest opportunity of regularizing her position 
by a Protocol negotiated with the native Government, and com- 
municated with Tokyo to her Legations abroad on February 27th. 
In this, the last of the long series of diplomatic agreements relating 
to the subject, the fiction of Korean independence is still kept up, 
while the fact of Japanese control is further accentuated. By the 
third Article Japan " guarantees the independence and territorial 
integrity of the Korean Empire "; and by the second she covenants 
to ensure " the safety and repose of the Imperial Household of 
Korea." The Korean Government, on its part, covenants to adopt 
the advice of Japan in regard to improvements in administration, 
and to give full facilities for the promotion of any measures the 
Japanese Government may undertake to protect Korea against 
foreign aggressions or internal disturbances. It also agrees that 
for the promotion of these objects Japan may occupy strategic 
points in Korean territory. 

The effect of this agreement has been to place the resources of 
Korea at the disposal of Japan in the present war. The victorious 
army which forced the passage of the Yalu so brilliantly on May ist 
was landed at Korean ports, concentrated on Korean soil, and 
supplied from Korean harbors. In the political sphere Korea 
has denounced, as having been made under compulsion, all her 
treaties with Russia and all concessions granted to Russian sub- 
jects. On the other hand, Russia has declared that she will 

1 War and Neutrality in the Far East, p. 216 /. 



248 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

regard as null and void all the acts of the Korean Government 
while under Japanese tutelage, and her newspapers loudly pro- 
claim that, if our (English) neutrality were genuine, we should 
raise objections against the Protocol, as being inconsistent with 
the Treaty of 1902, whereby we, in conjunction with Japan, mu- 
tually recognize the independence of Korea. In reality there is no 
inconsistency, because, as we have just seen, it is clear from the 
first Article of the Treaty that the independence is not an ordinary 
independence, but a diplomatic variety which was perfectly con- 
sistent with recurring interventions to ward off foreign aggression 
and put down domestic revolt. In other words, it was a dependent 
independence, or no independence at all, and such it remains 
under the agreement of February, 1904. That instrument un- 
doubtedly establishes a Japanese Protectorate over Korea, and 
the beauty of Protectorates is their indefiniteness. As Professor 
Nye, the great Belgian jurist, says in his recently published work 
on Le Droit International: "Le terme 'protectorat,' designe la 
situation creee par le traite de protection. . . . Le protectorat a 
plus ou moins de developpement ; rien n'est fixe dans la theorie; 
il est cependant un trait caracteristique commun aux Etats 
proteges c'est qu'ils ne sont pas entierement independants dans 
leurs relations avec les autres Etats." These words exactly fit 
the condition of Korea under its recent agreement with Japan. 
Indeed, the description might be extended to its internal affairs 
also. Susceptibilities are soothed, and possibly diplomatic diffi- 
culties are turned, by calling it independent; but in reality it is 
as much under Japanese protection as Egypt is under ours; all 
state-paper description to the contrary notwithstanding. 

The new Treaty of August 22, 1904, shows that this is 
fully understood at Tokyo. A financial adviser and a diplo- 
matic adviser are to be appointed by the Korean Govern- 
ment on the recommendation of Japan, and nothing im- 
portant is to be done in their departments without their 
advice. No treaties with Foreign Powers are to be con- 
cluded, and no concessions to foreigners granted, without 
previous consultation with the Japanese Government. 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 249 

That the view of this authority as to the significance of the 
Conventions of 1904 is not the view of any individual alone 
has been clearly demonstrated by the acceptance of its con- 
clusions, in a practical way, trfough the official action of 
foreign governments since the date of the conventions them- 
selves. 

In particular it is to be noted that the Government of the 
United States has expressed an opinion touching the effect in 
international law upon the status of Korea of the February 
and August Protocols which is substantially identical with 
that of Professor Lawrence. Before there was any occasion 
for a formal expression of opinion a significant indication of 
the views of the Department of State upon the subject could be 
found in the Foreign Relations for 1904. Over the Protocols 
as published therein may be found the caption " Protectorate 
by Japan over Korea." (437 f.) Later on, Secretary Root 
had occasion expressly to state this opinion. This was when, 
in December, 1905, Mr. Min Yung-chan, whilom Korean 
Minister to France, came to the United States for the purpose 
of protesting against recognition by the United States of the 
Treaty of November iyth of the same year. In a letter to 
Mr. Min, explaining the reasons which made it impossible 
for the American Government not to recognize the binding 
force of that instrument, the Secretary added that there was 
another and a conclusive reason against interference in the 
matter. This reason, he said, was to be found in the circum- 
stance that Korea had previously concluded with Japan two 
agreements which, in principle and in practice, established a 
Japanese Protectorate in Korea, and to the force of which in 
that particular the Treaty of November 17 added nothing. 

To this view of the virtual significance of these earlier 
Protocols there is only to be opposed the demonstrably false 
assertions of the now ex-Emperor and the opinions and 
affirmations quite unwarranted as the next chapter will 



2 5 o IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

show of writers like Mr. Hulbert, Mr. Story, and other 
so-called " foreign friends " of His Majesty. These assertions 
and opinions are certainly not made any more credible by 
the willingness of their authors to denounce the President 
and Acting Foreign Minister of the United States in Korea, 
and, by implication, all the other heads of foreign governments 
who neither share their opinion, nor approve of their conduct 
in support of the opinion! 1 

By the Treaty of Portsmouth the Russian Government not 
only definitely relinquished all the political interests she had 
previously claimed to possess in Korea, but also recognized 
in all important particulars the rights acquired in the same 
country by Japan through the Conventions of February and 
August, 1904. Article Second of the Treaty stipulates: "The 
Imperial Russian Government, acknowledging that Japan 
possesses in Korea paramount political, military and economi- 
cal interests, engages neither to obstruct nor interfere with 
the measures of guidance, protection and control which the 
Imperial Government of Japan may find it necessary to take 
in Korea. " 

Thus did the war with Russia, which was fought over the 
relations between Japan and Korea as an issue of supreme 
importance, terminate the second main period in the history 
of these relations. The Chino- Japan war removed forever 
that foreign influence which had continued through centuries, 
not only to prevent the immediate realization of a true national 
independence on the part of Korea, but also to unfit the 
Korean Government to maintain such independence when 
conferred upon it as the gift of another nation. The Russo- 
Japanese war terminated the attempt of a more powerful 
foreign nation to supersede the controlling influence of 
Japan in Korea. At the same time it gave a convincing 
further demonstration of Korea's inherent and hopeless 

1 See especially Hulbert, The Passing of Korea, p. 464 /. 



THE PROBLEM: HISTORICAL 251 

inability to control herself, under any existing conditions of 
her government or of her system of civilization. Thus the 
provisions for a Japanese Protectorate, which shall secure 
for both nations the largest possible measure of good, offered 
to the Marquis Ito his difficult problem as Imperial Com- 
missioner to Korea in November, 1905, 



CHAPTER XI 

THE COMPACT 

IT will need no argument for those familiar with the habit- 
ual ways of the Korean Government in dealing with foreign 
affairs to establish the necessity that Japan should make 
more definite, explicit, and comprehensive, the Protocols of 
February 23 and August 22, 1904. Foreign affairs have 
always been with the Emperor and Court of Korea a par- 
ticularly favorable but mischievous sphere for intrigue and 
intermeddling. The Foreign Office has never had any real 
control over the agents of the government, who have been the 
tools of the Emperor in their dealings with foreign Legations. 
The Korean Foreign Minister in 1905 was not an efficient and 
responsible representative of either the intentions or the trans- 
actions of his own government; instructions were frequently 
sent direct from the Palace to Ministers in other countries; 
foreign Legations had, each one, a separate cipher to be 
used for such communications; and there were several 
instances of clandestine communication with agents abroad, 
even during the Russo-Japanese war. To guard, therefore, 
against the repetition of occurrences similar to those which 
had already cost her so dearly, Japan's interests demanded 
that her control over the management of Korea's foreign 
affairs should be undivided and unquestioned. 

It was not, however, in the interests of Japan alone that 
the management of Korea's foreign affairs was to pass out 

of her own hands. It was distinctly, as events are fast proving 

252 



THE COMPACT 253 

beyond a reasonable doubt, for the advantage of Korea her- 
self. In any valid meaning of the word, Korea had never 
been "independent" of foreign influences, dominating over 
her and corrupting the officials within her own borders. 
For centuries these influences came chiefly from China; for 
a decade, chiefly from Russia and other Western nations. 
The Treaty of 1905 was also, just as distinctly so, we be- 
lieve, the events will ultimately prove for the advantage of 
these Western nations, and of the entire Far East. 

It is, therefore, highly desirable, not only as vindicating 
the honor of Marquis Ito and of the Japanese Government, 
but also as establishing the Protectorate of Japan over 
Korea upon foundations of veracity and justice, that the 
exact and full truth should be known and placed on record 
before the world, concerning the Convention of November, 
1905. This is the more desirable because of the gross and 
persistent misrepresentations of the facts which have been re- 
peated over and over again chiefly by the same persons 
down to the time of the appearance of the so-called Korean 
Commission at The Hague Conference of 1907.* His Maj- 
esty the Emperor (now ex-Emperor) of Korea has, indeed, 
publicly proclaimed his intention not to keep a treaty "made 
under duress" and through fears of "personal violence"; 

1 The narrative which follows may be trusted to correct most of 
these misstatements. But among them, some of the more important 
may here be categorically contradicted. Such are, for example, the 
statements that armed force was used; that General Hasegawa half 
drew his sword to intimidate Mr. Han; that Hagiwara seized the 
latter with the aid of gendarmes and police; that the Minister of Agri- 
culture continued to hold out; that he and Minister Pak, during the 
conference, withdrew from the Japanese Legation and betook them- 
selves to the Palace, denouncing the compact (something no one ac- 
quainted with the geographical relations of the two places would be 
likely to assert with a sincere belief); that the Emperor ordered the 
consenting Ministers to be assassinated; that Japanese troops pa- 
trolled the streets all night, etc., etc. One curiously characteristic 
error of Mr. Hulbert is involved in the statement, published in one of 



254 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

he has also made it appear that the signatures and the Im- 
perial seal upon the document were fraudulently obtained. 
Meantime, he has sedulously (and, we believe, with such 
sincerity as his nature admits) cultivated and cherished the 
friendship of the Japanese Resident- General who nego- 
tiated, and who has administered affairs under, the Treaty. 
How he lost his crown, at the hands of his own Ministry, 
for his last violation of the most solemn provisions of the 
same treaty, is now a matter of universal history. 

Marquis Ito arrived at Seoul, as the Representative of the 
Japanese Government, to conclude a new Convention with 
Korea, during the first week of November, 1905. He was 
the bearer of a letter from his own Emperor to the Emperor 
of Korea, which frankly explained the object of his mission. 
What follows is the substance of His Japanese Majesty's 
letter. 

"Japan, in self-defence and for the preservation of the 
peace and security of the Far East, had been forced to go 
to war with Russia; but now, after a struggle of twenty 
months, hostilities were ended. During their continuance 
the Emperor of Korea and his people, no doubt, shared the 
anxiety felt by the Emperor and people of Japan. In the 
mind of His Majesty, the Emperor of Japan, the most ab- 

the papers of the United States, which makes his commission by the 
Korean Emperor to lodge an appeal with President Roosevelt the 
cause of hastening the Japanese Government in their iniquitous coup 
d'etat. The truth is that the Japanese Government had made all the 
preparations for Marquis Ito's departure, and the plan afterward 
carried out had been carefully formulated, weeks before it was known 
that Mr. Hulbert was going to the United States. The Marquis was 
only waiting the return of Baron Komura to Japan before leaving for 
Korea. No thought whatever was at any time given to Mr. Hulbert. 
It is, in general, late now to say that the efforts of those "friends of 
Korea," who have taken the Korean ex-Emperor's money while holding 
out to him the hope of foreign intervention, have done him and his 
country, rather than Japan, an injury impossible to repair. 



THE COMPACT 255 

sorbing thought and purpose now was to safeguard the 
future peace and security of the two Empires, and to aug- 
ment and strengthen the friendly relations existing between 
them. Unfortunately, however, Korea was not yet in a 
state of good defence, nor was the basis for a system of 
effective self-defence yet created. Her weakness in these 
regards was in itself a menace to the peace of the Far East 
as well as to her own security. That this was unhappily the ' ^ / 
case was a matter of as much regret to His Majesty as it f 
could be to the Emperor of Korea; and for this reason the 
safety of Korea was as much a matter of anxiety to him as 
was that of his own country. His Majesty had already com- 
manded his Government to conclude the Protocols of Feb- 
ruary and August, 1904, for the defence of Korea. Now, 
in order to preserve the peace which had been secured, and 
to guard against future dangers arising from the defenceless 
condition of Korea, it was necessary that the bonds which 
united the two countries should be closer and stronger than 
ever before. Having this end in view, His Majesty had 
commanded His Government to study the question and to 
devise means of attaining this desirable result. The pres- 
ervation and protection of the dignity, privileges, and tran- 
quillity of the Imperial House of Korea would, as a matter 
of course, be one of the first considerations kept in view. 

" His Majesty felt sure that if the Emperor of Korea would 
carefully consider the general situation and its bearing upon 
the interests and welfare of his country and people, he would 
decide to take the advice now earnestly tendered to him." ^ 

It should be noticed that this address from His Imperial 
Majesty of Japan to the Korean Emperor the sincerity of 
which cannot be questioned is pervaded with the same 
spirit as that which has characterized the administration, 
hitherto, of the Japanese Residency-General. 

Marquis Ito informed the Korean Emperor that he would 



256 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

ask for another audience in a few days. His Majesty con- 
sented, adding that in the meantime he desired carefully to 
study the letter from the Emperor of Japan. 1 

On the 1 5th of November, Marquis Ito had a private 
audience which lasted about four hours, and in which he 
frankly explained the object of his mission. . . . The 
Emperor began the interview by complaining of certain in- 
juries done by the Japanese civil and military authorities 
during the war. He dwelt at length upon past events, 
saying, among other things, that he had not wished to go 
to the Russian Legation in 1895, but had been over-per- 
suaded by those about his person. 

Marquis Ito replied that as he would remain in Korea 
for some time, there would be ample opportunity for a full 
exchange of views regarding the matters to which His Ma- 
jesty referred. At the present moment he felt it to be his 
imperative duty to beg His Majesty to hear the particulars 
of the mission with which he had been charged by his Im- 
perial Master. From 1885 onward, he went on to say, Japan 
had earnestly endeavored to maintain the independence of 
Korea. Unfortunately, Korea herself had rendered but 
little aid in the struggle which Japan had maintained in her 
behalf. Nevertheless, these efforts had preserved His 
Majesty's Empire, and, although there might have been 
causes of complaint, such as those to which His Majesty had 
just referred, in justice to Japan it should not be forgotten 
that in the midst of the great struggle in which she had been 
engaged, it was unhappily not possible wholly to avoid such 

1 In order to understand the following negotiations and all similar 
transactions conducted in characteristic Korean style, it should be 
remembered that delay, however reasonable it may seem or really be, 
is in fact utilized for purposes not of reflection and judicious planning 
for future emergencies, but the rather for arranging intrigues, securing 
apparent chances of escape from the really inevitable, with the result of 
an increasing unsettlement of the Imperial mind. 



THE COMPACT 257 

occurrences. If His Majesty would consider all the circum- 
stances, he would undoubtedly realize that in the midst of 
the absorbing anxiety of that momentous contest and of the 
heavy burdens it imposed upon Japan, whatever fault might 
attach to her as regarded the matters of which His Majesty 
had spoken was at least excusable. Korea, on the other 
hand, had borne but a small portion of the burden created 
by the necessity of defending and maintaining a principle in 
which she was as deeply interested as Japan namely, the 
peace and security of the Far East. Turning to the future, 
however, it could be clearly perceived that in order effectively 
to ensure the future peace and security of the Far East, it 
was imperatively necessary that the bonds uniting the two 
countries should be drawn closer. For that purpose, and 
with that object in view, His Majesty the Emperor of Japan 
had graciously entrusted him with the task of explaining the 
means which, after mature and careful deliberation, it had 
been concluded should be adopted. 

The substance of the plan which had been thus formulated 
might be summed up as follows: . . . The Japanese Gov- 
ernment, with the consent of the Government of Korea, to 
have the right to control and direct the foreign affairs of 
Korea, while the internal autonomy of the Empire would be 
maintained; and, of course, His Majesty's Government, 
under His Majesty's direction, would continue as at they 
present time. 

Explaining the objects of the Agreement thus outlined, 
the Marquis pointed out that it would effectively safeguard 
the security and prestige of the Imperial House of Korea, 
while affording the surest means of augmenting the happi- 
ness and prosperity of the people. For the reasons stated, 
and for these alone, the Marquis went on to say, he strongly 
advised the Emperor to accept this plan; and, taking into 
account the general situation, and the condition of Korea in 



258 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

particular, he earnestly hoped that His Majesty would con- 
sent. The Japanese Minister was authorized to discuss the 
details with His Majesty's Ministers. 

The Emperor in reply expressed his appreciation of the 
manifestation of sincere good-will on the part of the Em- 
peror of Japan, and his thanks. Although he would not 
absolutely reject the proposal, it was his earnest desire to 
retain some outward form of control over the external affairs 
of Korea. As to the actual exercise of such control by Japan, 
and in what manner it should be exercised, he had no objec- 
tions to urge. 

Marquis Ito enquired what was meant by "outward 
form." 

The Emperor replied, "the right to maintain Legations 
abroad." 

The Marquis then stated that, in accordance with diplo- 
matic rules and usage, there was in that case no difference 
between the form and the substance of control. Therefore 
he could not accept the suggestion. If Korea were to con- 
tinue to have Legations abroad, she would in fact retain 
3fi control of the external relations of the Empire. The status 
quo would be perpetuated; there would be constant danger 
of the renewal of past difficulties; and again the peace of 
the East would be threatened. It was absolutely necessary 
that Japan should control and direct the external relations 
of Korea. This decision was the result of most careful in- 
/ vestigations and deliberations; it could jiQL_be_^hanged._ 
Marquis Ito further stated that he had brought a memo- 
randum of the agreement which it was desired to conclude; 
and this he then handed to the Emperor. 

The Emperor, having read it, expressed his implicit trust 
in Marquis Ito, saying that he placed more reliance upon 
what he said than upon the representations of his own 
subjects. [It may seem a strange comment upon the work- 



THE COMPACT 

ing of His Majesty's mind, but all my observations and ex- 
periences, while in Korea, lead me to believe in the veracity 
of this declaration. To the last, the Emperor trusted the 
word of the Marquis Ito.] ... If, however, he accepted 
the agreement and retained no outward form of control over 
Korean foreign affairs, the relations of Japan and Korea 
would *be like those of Austria and Hungary; or Korea's 
condition would be like that of one of the African tribes. 

Marquis Ito begged leave to dissent. Austria and Hun- 
gary were ruled by one monarch; whereas in this case His 
Majesty would still be Emperor of Korea, and would con- 
tinue as before to exercise his Imperial prerogatives. As for 
the presumed resemblance to an African tribe, that could 
hardly be considered in point; since Korea had a Govern- 
ment established for centuries and therefore a national 
organization and forms of administration such as no savage 
tribe possessed. 

The Emperor expressed appreciation of what the Marquis 
said, but repeated that he did not care for the substance, 
and only wished to retain some external form of control over 
Korea's foreign affairs. He therefore hoped that the Mar- 
quis would inform his Emperor and the Japanese Govern- 
ment of this wish and would induce them to change f the |, / 
plan proposed; this wish he reiterated a number of times. 
[There were undoubtedly two reasons, entirely valid from his 
point of view, for the endeavor to secure this change. The 
first was the very natural desire to % "save his face"; and the 
second was the with him scarcely less natural desire to 
leave room for intrigue to contest the scope of the terms 
agreed upon while claiming to be faithful to their substance.] , 

The Marquis stated that he could not comply with the 
request of His Majesty. The draft was the definitive ex- 
pression of the views of the Japanese Government after most 
careful consideration, and could not be changed as His 




260 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Majesty desired. He then quoted the Article in the Ports- 
II mouth Treaty wherein Russia recognizes the paramount 
political, commercial, and economic interests of Japan in 
,y Korea. There was only one alternative, he added: either to 
accept or to refuse. He could not predict what the result 
would be if His Majesty refused, but he feared that it might 
be less acceptable than what he now proposed. If His 
Majesty refused, he must clearly understand this. 

The Emperor replied that he did not hesitate because he 
was ignorant of this fact, but because he could not himself 
decide at that moment. He must consult his Ministers and 
ascertain also "the intention of the people at large." 

The Marquis replied that His Majesty was, of course, quite 
right in desiring to consult his Ministers, but he could 
not understand what was meant by consulting "the intention 
of the people." Inasmuch as Korea did not have a constitu- 
tional form of government, and consequently no Diet, it 
seemed rather a strange proceeding to consult "the intention 
of the people." If such action should lead to popular ferment 
and excitement and possibly public disturbances, he must 
respectfully point out that the responsibility would rest with 
His Majesty. 

Finally, after some further discussion, the Emperor re- 
quested Marquis Ito to have Minister Hayashi (who held 
the power to negotiate the proposed agreement) consult with 
his own Minister for Foreign Affairs. The result could be 
submitted to the Cabinet; and when that body had reached 
a decision His Majesty's approval could be asked. 

Marquis Ito said that prompt action was necessary, and 
requested His Majesty to summon the Minister for Foreign 
Affairs at once, and to instruct him to negotiate and sign 
the agreement. The Emperor replied that he would give 
instructions to the Minister for Foreign Affairs to that effect. 
Marquis Ito stated that he would remain awaiting the con- 



THE COMPACT 261 

elusion of that agreement, and would again request His 
Majesty to grant him an audience. 

Before this first audience ended the Emperor again asked 
Marquis Ito to persuade His Majesty of Japan to consent 
that Korea should retain some outward form of control over 
her foreign affairs; but again Marquis Ito refused. This / 
repeated refusal of Japan's Representative to concede any-/ 
thing whatever as an abatement of his country's control in 
the future over Korea's relations to foreign countries distinctly 
reveals the nature of the only treaty that could then possibly 
have been concluded between the two Powers. On the fol- 
lowing day, the i6th of November, Marquis ItQ.had a con- 
ference with all of the Cabinet Ministers, except the Minister 
for Foreign Affairs, who on the same day began negotiations 
with Minister Hayashi. Marquis Ito explained fully to the 
Korean Ministers the object of his mission and the views of 
his Government. 

On the iyth of November, at n A. M., all of the Korean 
Ministers went to the Japanese Legation, lunched there, and 
conferred with Mr. Hayashi until 3 o'clock, when they ad- 
journed to the Palace and held a meeting in the Emperor's 
presence. Their decision was, finally, to refuse to agree to \ 
the Treaty in the form in which it had been proposed. 
Marquis Ito was taking dinner with General Hasegawa, when, 
at 7.30, he received a message from Mr. Hayashi conveying 
this intelligence and a request to come to the Palace. 1 Ac- 
cordingly, at 8 o'clock, he went to the Palace in company 
with General Hasegawa, the latter's aide, and the three or 
four mounted gendarmes, who accompanied Marquis Ito 
wherever he went. There were no other Japanese guards or 
soldiers in attendance, and none in the immediate vicinity oj 

1 He was preparing to go when the Minister of the Household called 
with a message requesting the Marquis to postpone the conclusion of 
the Treaty two or three days. 



262 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

the Palace. The gendarmes who accompanied the Marquis 
did not enter the Palace precincts, and all the gates and en- 
trances were guarded as usual by Korean soldiers, Korean 
gendarmes and Korean policemen. Precautions had indeed 
been taken to preserve order in the city, as some outburst of 
mob violence was possible. The necessity of this precaution 
was shown later in the night when an attempt was made to 
set fire to the house of Mr. Yi Wan-yong, Minister of Educa- 
tion (now Prime Minister). It was only when the confer- 
ence was ended that, at the express request of the Korean 
Ministers, a small number of gendarmes was summoned 
to accompany them to their homes. [This precaution will 
not seem excessive, or threatening of violence to others, in the 
eyes of one who, like myself, has spent a period of two months 
in Korea, characterized by repeated attempts to assassinate 
the Ministers, who always went guarded by Korean and 
Japanese gendarmes. See pp. 66 ff.] 

Upon arriving at the Palace, Marquis Ito was informed 
by Mr. Hayashi that, although His Majesty had ordered 
the Cabinet to come to an agreement which would establish 
a cordial entente with Japan, and although the majority of 
the Cabinet Ministers were ready to obey His Majesty's 
commands, Mr. Han, the Prime Minister, persistently re- 
fused to obey. Marquis Ito thereupon, through the Minister 
of the Household, requested a private audience with His 
Majesty. 

It should be explained here that during all of the proceed- 
ings, which took place in the rooms on the lower floor of the 
"Library," the Emperor was in his rooms in the upper 
story, and was never personally approached by any one ex- 
cept, as hereafter stated, by his own Ministers. It may also 
be added, in explanation of the time of the conference, that 
it had been His Majesty's invariable practice for years to 
transact important public business at night. He turned 



THE COMPACT 263 

night into day in that regard and the Cabinet Ministers had 
customarily been obliged to attend in turn at the Palace and 
remain there all night long. 

To the request for a private audience the Emperor re- 
plied that although he would be pleased to grant an audience 
at once, he was very tired and was suffering from sore throat 
the plea of indisposition being one to which he is accustomed 
to resort for avoiding audiences. Therefore he prefered that 
Marquis Ito should consult with his Ministers whom he would 
instruct to negotiate and conclude an agreement establishing 
a cordial entente between Korea and Japan. At the same 
time that the Emperor requested the Marquis to consult 
with the Cabinet for that purpose, the Minister of the House- 
hold informed the Cabinet Ministers that His Majesty com- 
manded them to negotiate with Marquis Ito. 

Marquis Ito then turned to the Prime Minister, and, 
repeating what Mr. Hayashi had told him, enquired whether 
the statement correctly represented his attitude. The 
Prime Minister replied that it was correct. His Majesty^ 
had often commanded him to come to an understanding 
with the Japanese Minister, but he had refused. Then the 
other Ministers had accused him of disloyalty in disobeying 
His Majesty's commands. He himself could not but feel 
that the accusation was well founded and, on that account, 
he wished immediately to resign his office and to await the 
Imperial punishment for his disobedience. As he had in- 
formed Marquis Ito the day before, although he was per- 
fectly well aware that Korea could not maintain her inde- 
pendence by her own unaided efforts, he still wished to retain 
the outward semblance of control over the Nation's foreign 
relations. 

Thereupon Marquis Ito said that the last thought in his 
mind would be to try to force the Prime Minister to do any 
thing which would destroy his country. The Minister had 



264 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

said, however, that he wished to resign because he had been 
disloyal in disobeying the Emperor's commands. It did not 
seem to him, the Marquis, that this was either a dignified, or a 
sensible course for a Minister of State to adopt. The manage- 
ment of public affairs required decision. If the Prime 
Minister could not come to some understanding with Japan's 
representatives, as his own Majesty the Emperor had com- 
manded him to do, he was seriously jeopardizing his country's 
interests. The Marquis could not believe that this was 
genuine loyalty. There was only one alternative before the 
Prime Minister, either to obey the Imperial order, or, care- 
fully considering the gravity of the situation, to do what he 
could to change the Imperial opinion. He then asked 
the Prime Minister to request the other Ministers, in accord- 
ance with the Emperor's command, conveyed through the 
Minister of the Household, to give their views regarding the 
proposed agreement. This the Prime Minister proceeded 
to do. 

The Minister for Foreign Affairs, Mr. Pak Chi-sun (after- 
/ wards Acting Prime Minister) stated that, as he had informed 
the Japanese Minister, he was opposed to the treaty and did not 
wish to negotiate it; but if he was ordered to do so, he would 
comply. The Marquis asked what he meant by "ordered"; 
did he mean an Imperial order? Mr. Pak assented. 

The Minister of Finance, Mr. Min Yong-ki, said that he 
was opposed to the treaty. (He remained in office for a year 
and a half after the conclusion of the treaty, considering, no 
doubt, that the Imperial command absolved him from 
responsibility.) 

The Minister of Education, Mr. Yi Wan-yong (now 
Prime Minister), replied that he had already expressed his 
opinion fully in His Majesty's presence. The request of 
Japan was the logical result of existing conditions in the East. 
The diplomacy of Korea, always changing, had forced Japan 



THE COMPACT 265 

into a great war which had entailed on her heavy sacrifices, 
and in which, finally, she had been victorious. Korea must 
accept the result and aid in maintaining the future peace of 
the East by loyally co-operating with Japan. 

The Minister of Justice, Mr. Yi Ha-yung (who had been\ 
Minister for Foreign Affairs during the war), stated that, in \ 
his opinion, the Protocols of February 23 and August 22, I 
1904, already gave Japan practically all that she now asked. 
Consequently he did not think that the new Treaty was neces- 
sary. 

Marquis Ito then said to him that the opinion he had 
expressed at the conference of the previous day was some- 
what different, and that he had appeared at that time to be 
in favor of the Treaty. The Minister assented, but added 
that then, as now, he thought that the Protocols would 
have been amply sufficient if Korea herself had faithfully 
observed the obligations they imposed upon her. 

The Minister of War, Mr. Yi Kun-tak, stated that in His 
Majesty's presence he had supported the Minister of Educa- 
tion in the position described by the latter. Finally, how- 
ever, he had cast his vote in favor of the Prime Minister's 
proposal that they should insist upon a Treaty which re- 
tained to Korea the outward form of control over her foreign 
relations. He would now agree to the proposed treaty, how- 
ever. 

The Minister of Home Affairs, Mr. Yi Chi-yung, said that 
having negotiated and signed the Protocol of February 23, 
1904, he had naturally associated himself with the Minister 
of Education in His Majesty's presence, and he now did the 
same. 

The Minister of Agriculture, Commerce and Industry, Mr. 
Kwon Chong-hiun, said that he had seconded the proposal 
of the Minister of Education and was of course m favor of the 
Treaty. He desired, however, to suggest several amendments. 



266 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

After some further consultation, Marquis Ito turned to the 
Prime Minister, and said that there were but two of the 
Ministers opposed to the Treaty. The recognized method 
of deciding such questions was by a majority vote, and, as 
the Prime Minister had seen, the majority of the Cabinet 
were in favor of negotiating and concluding the Treaty. It 
was the duty of the Prime Minister accordingly, bearing in 
mind the Imperial command, to proceed to accomplish this 
result in due form. Thereupon the Prime Minister, say- 
ing something about disloyalty, burst into tears and went 
hastily into the next room. After a few moments Marquis 
Ito followed him, and found him still greatly agitated. The 
Marquis spoke to him gently, and, repeating his former argu- 
ments, tried to persuade him that it was his duty as a loyal 
servant to obey the Imperial command by assisting in the 
negotiation and conclusion of the Treaty. Finding, however, 
that his efforts were fruitless, Marquis Ito returned to the 
other room, leaving Mr. Han alone. 1 

1 None of the party gathered in the council chamber saw Mr. Han 
after that. It seems from the accounts subsequently given by Palace 
officials that a little later Mr. Han went upstairs still deeply agitated. 
His evident purpose was to gain access to the Emperor, which, as he 
had not requested an audience, was a flagrant violation of etiquette 
from the Korean point of view. But the poor man in his confusion 
turned the wrong way and stumbled into Lady Om's quarters. Some 
of the officials led him to a small retiring room, where he spent the 
night. The next morning it was officially announced that he had been 
dismissed from office in disgrace and would be severely punished. 
Marquis Ito immediately begged that the Emperor would pardon him, 
and, in deference to this request, Mr. Han was permitted to go into 
retirement with no other punishment than the loss of his office. The 
whole proceeding was- one of those things which apparently can happen 
only in Korea and not excite any one's special wonder. No one 
seemed to know precisely why the Minister was punished. He was 
amiable, not very strong mentally, but well-meaning and of compara- 
tively good repute; he had done his best to carry out the Emperor's 
wishes as he understood them, and, having failed, as was inevitable, 
his grief was the best proof possible of his sincerity; and one would 



THE COMPACT 267 

After Mr. Han's disappearance from the scene, and 
upon the Marquis' return to the room, the latter addressed 
the Minister of the Household, stating that, as he had seen, 
the Cabinet Ministers, with two exceptions, had expressed 
their willingness to accept the Treaty in principle ; and of the 
two dissenting Ministers one, the Minister for Foreign Affairs, 
had said that he would sign the Treaty if he received the 
Imperial command to do so. Turning then to the Ministers, 
he enquired whether they were willing to proceed as com- 
manded by His Majesty, with the consideration of the Treaty, 
and of the amendments, which several of their number had 
expressed a desire to present. The Ministers replied that 
they were ready to do so, but wished the Minister of the 
Household to be present. Accordingly the deliberations were 
conducted in the presence of that official. 

The Treaty was then considered in detail. The Minister 
of Education proposed an amendment, stipulating that the 
functions of control to be exercised by Japan should be con- 
fined exclusively to administration of the foreign relations 
of Korea. Marquis Ito replied that he could not accept 
this amendment, but after some discussion proposed the 
insertion of the word "primarily" in the Article. 1 

think it might have excited sufficient pity to preclude resentment. 
However, it should be added that the 'sincerity manifest in Mr. Han's 
grief did not extend to his memory or his powers of narration. At 
least that is an inference which one may draw from certain published 
accounts of these occurrences Mr. Han having seemingly been the 
fountain-head of the information. 

1 The Marquis' reasons for refusing hardly need explanation. Japan 
had already secured some measure of control over the internal adminis- 
tration of Korea by previous arrangements. The acceptance of the 
proposed amendment would have been virtually an abrogation of these 
arrangements, notably of the most important portion of the Protocols of 
February 23 and August 22. To that, of course, the Marquis could 
not agree. Besides this, the control of Korea's foreign relations neces- 
sarily required some measure of control and guidance over the adminis- 
tration of her internal affairs. The relations between external and inter- 



268 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

The Minister of Justice proposed an amendment stipulat- 
ing that Japan would guarantee to maintain the peace, 
security and prestige of the Imperial Household. This 
Marquis Ito accepted and wrote the amendment with his 
own hand. 

After some further deliberation the treaty in its amended 
form was agreed to. The Minister of the Household, ac- 
companied by Mr. Yi Chi-yung, Minister of Home Affairs, 
then took the document to the Emperor. After a time they 
returned, saying that His Majesty was satisfied with the in- 
strument as amended and gave it his sanction. He in- 
structed them to say, however, that he desired to add one 
more amendment. It was to insert in the preamble a stipu- 
lation to the effect that when Korea became able again to 
exercise the functions surrendered to Japan by the Treaty, 
she would be entitled to resume the control of her foreign 
relations. To this proposal Marquis Ito assented, and 
again wrote the amendment with his own hand. The two 
Ministers took the completed instrument to His Majesty, 
and in a short time returned saying His Majesty was "quite 
satisfied and approved the Treaty." 

The copyists then began preparing the copies for signa- 
ture, and the Minister of Foreign Affairs went to the tele- 
phone and ordered the clerk in charge to bring the seal of 
the Foreign Office to the Palace. 

The Minister of the Household, who had again repaired to 
the Imperial presence, returned while this was going on 
with the following message from the Emperor to Marquis 

nal affairs, their frequent interdependence, is so intimate, that it would 
have been a grave mistake to assume the obligations which the one 
imposed without the power to guard against complications which might 
follow from maladministration of the other. As the case stands, the 
insertion of the word "primarily," while soothing Korean suscepti- 
bilities, does not affect the control of the Protectorate in any material 
respect. 



THE COMPACT 269 

Ito, which is here repeated verbatim: "Now that this new 
Agreement has been concluded our countries should mutually 
congratulate each other. We feel tired, as we are not well, 
and shall retire. You, who have reached an advanced age 
and have remained awake until this late hour, must also be 
greatly fatigued. Please, therefore, return to your home 
and sleep well." 

Marquis Ito returned thanks for this gracious message, 
but remained until the Treaty had been copied and duly 
signed by Mr. Pak, the Korean Minister for Foreign Affairs, 
and by Mr. Hayashi, the Japanese Minister. He then re- 
turned to his hotel. In a short time the seal of the Foreign 
Office was brought to the Palace, and Mr. Pak, with his 
own hand, affixed it to the four copies of the instrument 
which had been made. 1 

The conclusion of the Treaty was not followed by any 
noticeably great public excitement in Seoul. Crowds col- 
lected in the streets, and there were one or two trifling brawls, 
but nothing of great consequence. The policing of the streets 

1 The following facts with regard to the possession of the Imperial 
seal of Korea and its affixing to this important document, are given on 
the authority of Mr. D. W. Stevens. They are a complete refutation 
of the charges which have been made regarding this part of the entire 
transaction. It was the unavoidable delay in bringing the seal to the 
Palace which gave rise to these extraordinary stories. "What actually 
happened," says Mr. Stevens, "was this. While the treaty was being 
copied, Mr. Pak went to the telephone and directed the clerk in charge 
of the seal at the Foreign Office to bring it to the Palace. After some 
delay he went again to the telephone and repeated the order. At the 
time the only two persons in the office were the clerk in charge of the 
seal and Mr. Numano, my Japanese assistant. Both were just then 
reading in the room where the clerk slept and where the seal was kept. 
The telephone bell rang, and the clerk who answered it informed Mr. 
Numano that Mr. Pak had ordered the seal to be brought to the Palace. 
He was putting on his street clothing preparatory to obeying the order 
when the Chief of the Diplomatic Bureau of the Foreign Office came 
into the room and asked the clerk where he was going. The clerk in- 



270 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

was entirely in the hands of the Korean gendarmes and the 
mixed force of Korean and Japanese police under the direc- 
tion of Mr. Maruyama, Police Adviser to the Korean Gov- 
ernment. Nor, in order to preserve the public peace, was 
there at any time necessary any exhibition of a large force, 
either of police or of gendarmes in any one locality. They 
went about singly or in twos or threes, and the crowds were, 
as a rule, orderly. 

The Convention thus concluded on November 17, 1905, with 
the object of strengthening the principle of solidarity which 
unites the two Empires, provides that the complete control 
and direction of Korean affairs shall hereafter rest with the 
Japanese Government, and that a Resident- General shall 
reside in Seoul, " primarily for the purpose of taking charge 
of and directing matters relating to diplomatic affairs." It 
also provides for the appointment of Residents, subordinate 
to the Resident- General, who shall occupy the open ports 
and such other places in Korea as the Japanese Government 
may deem necessary. Article IV stipulates that all treaties 
and agreements subsisting between Japan and Korea, not 

formed him, whereupon he went to the telephone and called up Mr. 
Pak. He implored the latter not to agree to the Treaty and, finally, 
receiving Mr. Pak's peremptory order to cease interfering, threw him- 
self down upon the clerk's bed in great grief. After this, there was no 
further interruption from any quarter, and the seal was taken quietly 
to the Palace." 

It throws light upon the control and use of this seal to observe that, 
when in the summer of 1907 he was committed to the responsibility for 
the Commission to The Hague Conference by the fact that the com- 
missioners were ready to prove their Imperial authorization by showing 
the Imperial seal, His Majesty did not admit this as evidence in proof 
of their claim. Nevertheless, there is no doubt that this use of his seal 
was also with his knowledge and permission. And, now, in connection 
with the various details inaugurated under the new Treaty which fol- 
lowed this violation of the Treaty of November, 1905, we are told that 
henceforth the Imperial seal will be kept in a safe especially prepared 
for it, and carefully protected from intrusion. 



THE COMPACT 271 

inconsistent with the provisions of the Convention itself, shall 
continue in force. Furthermore, Japan engages to maintain 
the welfare and dignity of the Imperial House of Korea. 

This is the substance of the Convention of 1905. Its effect 
was to substitute Japan for Korea in all official relations with 
foreign Powers, past as well as future. In other words, 
foreign nations must hereafter deal directly and exclusively 
with Japan in everything affecting their diplomatic relations 
with Korea. Japan, on her part, is equally bound to re- 
spect and maintain all treaty rights and all treaty engage- 
ments granted by Korea in the past. The "principle of 
solidarity which unites the two Empires" implies, and in 
fact actually includes, even more than this. While the func- 
tions of Japan's direct and exclusive control were primarily 
confined to matters connected with the direction of foreign 
affairs, some measure of control over Korea's domestic 
affairs also is necessarily implied. It is not to be supposed, 
for example, that Japan could permit internal disorders, or 
the perpetuation of domestic abuses, or, in brief, any of 
those disturbing conditions which had hitherto prevented 
Korean progress and development. International control, 
dissociated from an orderly and progressive domestic policy, 
is not practicable; it is not even conceivable. The com- 
plications and embarrassments which would inevitably arise 
from such a complete dissociation of the two functions of 
government would far outweigh the advantages. One of 
the most fruitful sources of international difficulties in Korea 
has always been found in domestic misgovernment. Having 
assumed the responsibility and the obligations incident to the 
direction of foreign affairs, Japan has the right to ask, and, 
if need be, to insist, that her task shall not be fnade heavier 
by Korea herself. This did not, indeed, imply, that Japan 
should assume charge of the administrative machinery of 
the Korean Government, but that she should enjoy the right 



272 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

to have recourse to those measures of guidance which natu- 
rally and properly fall within the sphere of the duties she had 
assumed. Fortunately, however, any discussion relating 
to this question must of necessity be purely academic; since 
not only the Convention of November iyth, but also the 
Protocols and other Agreements concluded before that time 
give ample warrant for everything Japan has attempted or 
accomplished in this regard. 

If corroborative evidence is needed for the account just 
given .of the negotiations which ended in the Convention of 
November, 1905, and upon the basis of which Marquis Ito, 
as the Representative of the Japanese Government, had 
been conducting his administration in Korea up to the time 
of the new Convention of July, 1907, it is afforded in fullest 
measure in the following manner. A notable "Memorial" 
regarding the circumstances under which the earlier agreement 
was formed was presented to the Korean Emperor on the fif- 
teenth of December of the same year; this document lends 
the authority of all the other chief actors in this event to 
every important detail of the account as already given. 1 

The memorialists were Pak Chi-sun, former Minister for 
Foreign Affairs; Yi Wan-yong, Minister of Education; 
Kwan Chung-hiun, Minister of Agriculture, Commerce and 
Industry; Yi Chi-yung, Minister of Home Affairs; and 
Yi Kun-tak, Minister of War. The occasion of the me- 
morial was the agitation against the Treaty which was then 
at its height, and on account of which these five Ministers 

1 It is a significant fact that this memorial which is. here followed 
very closely and in the most important places even literally has 
received no attention from the hostile critics of Japan. It would seem 
as though neither Mr. Hulbert nor Mr. Story is aware of the existence 
of such a memorial. This is the more remarkable in the case of the 
former, because he was for years resident in Seoul, was familiar with 
the Korean language, and was gathering material for his written ac- 
count of the affair while upon the ground. 



THE COMPACT 273 

were being denounced in petitions to the Throne, and in the 
public press, as traitors to their country. The purpose of 
the memorial was to show that the actual responsibility for 
the conclusion of the Treaty rested with the Emperor him- 
self. By relating all the circumstances in detail (in particular 
the occurrences at the conference on the evening of November 
iyth) the memorialists brought this fact out into the boldest 
prominence. Their memorial was, in effect, both a charge 
which fixed the responsibility for the Treaty on the Em- 
peror, and a challenge to the Emperor to deny that the 
Treaty was concluded in accordance with his own orders. 
It was a challenge which His Majesty did not accept; on the 
contrary, by approving the memorial, as he did formally, 
he acknowledged the truth of the statements it contained. 
// was, indeed, officially published at the time, as approved 
by the Emperor. 1 Moreover, this memorial was prepared by 
its authors and presented to the Throne without the previous 
knowledge of the Japanese authorities. In fact, it contained 
certain interesting and important details of which they then 
learned for the first time. 

The memorialists began with the statement that, by reason 
of His Majesty's generosity, they are entrusted with the re- 
sponsibilities of Ministers of State, although they do not 
merit such distinction. They have seen the petitions de- 
nouncing them to the Emperor as traitors. Those petitions 
affirm that the state has been destroyed; that the people 
have become slaves; and that Korean territory is now the 

1 It will, therefore, clearly appear that no one acquainted with this 
memorial can honestly place any confidence in His Majesty's subse- 
quent denials of the significance of these facts. Shall we not also be 
obliged to add, that no one who is acquainted with the memorial is 
entitled to the confidence of any one else, if he puts confidence in the 
denials of the Emperor. Amazement at the audacity of the falsehoods 
which have been told with regard to this historically important transac- 
tion would seem to be the fitting attitude of mind . 



274 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

property of another state. These opinions are indeed almost 
too absurd to be noticed; but since they affect the inde- 
pendence and dignity of the nation, the memorialists cannot 
permit them to pass without protest. The new Treaty with 
Japan does not change the title of the Empire or affect its 
real independence. The prestige of the Imperial House re- 
mains as before; the social fabric of the Empire is un- 
affected; and the country is in a peaceful condition. The 
only change is that the management of the foreign affairs of 
the country has been placed under the control of a neigh- 
boring state. Besides, the Treaty which brings about this 
result is by no means a new arrangement. It is the direct 
result of the Protocols concluded in 1904, and does not 
differ from them in object or in principle. If these persons 
who now so loudly proclaim their patriotism are really sin- 
cere and courageous men, why did they not denounce those 
Protocols when they were made and maintain their opposi- 
tion with their lives ? None of them did that then ; yet now 
they clamor for the abolition of all these arrangements and 
for the restoration of the old order of things. It is im- 
possible to agree with them. 

We desire, the memorialists go on to say, now to state the 
actual facts of the conclusion of the new Treaty: 

When the Japanese Envoy arrived in Korea all the people, even 
the children, knew that a grave crisis had arisen. And on the 
1 5th of November when Your Majesty received the Envoy he 
presented a most important document. On the following day 
the Prime Minister, with the other members of the Cabinet, 
except the Minister for Foreign Affairs, conferred with the Envoy; 
while the Minister for Foreign Affairs did the same with the 
Japanese Minister. At the former conference Sim San-kiun, 
Imperial Treasurer (former Prime Minister and one of the Em- 
peror's favorites), was also present. We discussed the matter 
fully with the Envoy, but did not agree to the proposals he made. 



THE COMPACT 275 

In the evening we were received in audience by your Majesty and 
reported all that had occurred. We stated to your Majesty that 
if we went to the Japanese Legation the next day, as had been 
proposed, we should continue to refuse to accede to the Japanese 
proposals. On the next day, we went in a body to the Legation 
and there conferred at length with the Minister upon the subject. 
Finally, as we still refused to concur in what the Minister pro- 
posed, he stated that further conference would be a waste of time; 
that your Majesty alone had authority to decide, and that he had 
asked for an audience through the Minister of the Imperial House- 
hold. Thereupon the whole party repaired to the Palace. Your 
Majesty received the members of the Cabinet in audience, and we 
reported what had happened at the Legation, and assured Your 
Majesty that we were still prepared to continue to refuse to 
accede to the Japanese demands. Your Majesty expressed 
anxiety regarding the course to be adopted, and said that, as we 
could not refuse positively, it would be better to postpone nego- 
tiations. 

Then Yi Wan-yong addressed Your Majesty. He said that the 
matter was one which vitally affected the state; and that all of 
the vassals and servants of Your Majesty must refuse to accept 
terms injurious to the state. But the relationship of the monarch 
to his vassals is like that of a father to his sons, and therefore the 
members of the Cabinet were bound by every tie of duty to speak 
frankly to their Master. He must, therefore, call His Majesty's 
attention to the fact that the visit of the Envoy to Korea, and the 
coming of the Japanese Minister to the Palace that evening, had 
one object and one only namely, the conclusion of the Treaty. 
Therefore it was necessary to decide at once upon what was to be 
done; the matter did not admit of procrastination. It is easy for us 
eight Ministers to say " No "; but our refusal alone does not -decide 
the matter. We are vassals merely, and only the word of the 
monarch is final. The Envoy will undoubtedly ask for an audi- 
ence. When that occurs, if Your Majesty continues firmly to 
refuse to the end, it is all right. But if Your Majesty's generosity 
should at last induce you to. yield, what shall be done then? 
This is a question which we must consider and settle beforehand. 



276 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

When Your Majesty received us in audience last evening you ex- 
pressed no opinion. 

As the other Ministers said nothing, Yi Wan-yong went on to 
explain that what he meant by studying the subject beforehand 
was to examine the provisions of the Convention, several of which 
he was of opinion should be changed. Concerning such matters 
it was necessary to consult and to come to some decision before- 
hand. 

Then Your Majesty said that Marquis Ito had informed you 
that if we wished to modify the wording of the Convention there 
was a way to do so. Your Majesty thought that if we rejected the 
Convention categorically, the good relations of Korea and Japan 
could not be maintained, and, in Your Majesty's opinion, it was 
possible to have some of the Articles changed. Therefore, what 
Yi Wan-yong had proposed was proper. 

Upon that Kwan Chung-hiun said that the Minister of Educa- 
tion had not advised His Majesty to accept the Convention, but 
to consider the matter upon the supposition that some amend- 
ment was possible. Your Majesty replied that you understood 
that, but that the difference was not of practical consequence. 
The other Ministers expressed the same opinion. Your Majesty 
then called for a draft of the Convention and asked for opinions 
regarding the amendments which should be made. 

The memorial then goes on to consider the amendments 1 
which it was thought would be desirable, and which were 
those subsequently proposed at the conference with Marquis 
Ito. The Emperor approved these amendments and him- 
self suggested an amendment to the effect that in Article I of 
the convention the word "sole" in the sentence " shall have 
sole control" should be omitted. [This word, it may be 
remarked in passing, appeared in the original draft, but was 
not included in the Article as finally agreed to.] 

Finally, when these deliberations terminated, the Ministers 

1 This part of the memorial agrees closely with the statements in the 
first part of the chapter, as to what was then said. 



THE COMPACT 277 

collectively addressed the Emperor, and stated that although 
they had conferred upon the adoption of possible amend- 
ments, they were still prepared, if His Majesty so ordered 
them, to refuse altogether to accept the Japanese proposals. 
In reply the Emperor commanded them not to reject the 
Treaty finally and conclusively. On leaving, Mr. Han, 
speaking as Prime Minister, and Mr. Pak, as Minister for 
Foreign Affairs, stated that they would not disobey His 
Majesty's commands. 

Then follows the account of the Conference with Mr. 
Hayashi, in which it is stated that the Prime Minister, while 
acknowledging that the Emperor had ordered him and his 
colleagues to come to some arrangement with the Japanese 
Minister, refused to consider any of the various proposals 
made by the latter. After that Marquis Ito arrived and the 
account of what happened subsequently, as given in the 
memorial, is the same in all essential details as that related 
in the first part of this chapter. 1 

With regard to this Treaty as a whole no advocate of Japan 
will, of course, claim that it was entered into by Korea with 
a willing heart much less, in a jubilant spirit. It is seldom, 
indeed, that treaties of any sort are concluded between two 
countries with apparently conflicting interests, where both 
are equally well satisfied with their terms. In all cases in 
which one party is compelled on grounds of expediency, or 

1 The purpose of this significant Memorial, we repeat, is self-evident. The 
Ministers, who had agreed to the. Treaty by the Emperor's commands 
and with his concurrence and approval, were being attacked as traitors. 
The Emperor himself was secretly favoring the attack and endeavor- 
ing to create the impression that he had not agreed to the Treaty, but 
that it was the work of the recreant Cabinet without his approval. The 
Memorial forced him to abandon that position once and for all. As 
before stated, it was officially promulgated with the Imperial sanction, 
and should have ended all controversy at once. In any country but 
Korea, and with any but the class of writers whom these incidents have 
developed, that would have been its result. 



278 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

of fear that greater evils will follow the rejection of the terms 
proposed by the other party, there is a sense in which it may 
be said that the will is not free, but that the deed is done 
"under a sort of compulsion." But if all treaties made 
under such conditions may be repudiated when conditions 
are changed, or if either of the parties to a treaty may act 
with treachery, and without punishment, when called upon 
to carry out faithfully the contracts thus entered into, the 
peace of the world cannot be secured or even promoted by 
any number of treaties. A feeling of regret and chagrin, 
especially on the part of the official classes and, indeed, of the 
educated men of Korea in general, was to be expected. So 
far as it was sincere and unselfish, the feeling was honorable; 
and for it the Resident- General and all those agreeing with 
his policy have never shown any lack of respect. But, as 
has already been made clear, the important thing with the 
millions of Korea is not, who are Cabinet Ministers, or who 
manages the foreign affairs of the country, or even who is 
Emperor; for them the important thing is the character of 
the local magistrates and the amount of their "squeezes." 

Protests and petitions followed the enactment of the 
Treaty of November, 1905. The Emperor refused 'to receive 
the petitions or to give audience to the petitioners. And 
when two men, among the most sincere and blameless of his 
subjects General Min Yung-whong and Mr. Choi Ik-hiun 
persisted in petitioning to be punished (as would have been in 
accordance with Korean custom under similar circumstances) 
for their disobedience to the Emperor's commands in refusing 
to accept the Treaty, the Emperor declined to punish them. 
The petitioners then transferred their efforts from the Palace 
to the Supreme Court, and were disappointed there also. 
One of them, perhaps both, undertook to punish themselves 
by suicide. General Min thus became the typical martyr of 
the period. He is described by one who knew him well as " a 



THE COMPACT 279 

man of amiable character, of dignified manners, and pleasing 
address. He was known at one time as the 'good Min,' to 
distinguish him from the other members of the family to 
which the late Queen belonged." But it has already been 
shown that, during the entire course of Korea's history, such 
men have almost always been without sufficient influence, or 
strength of character, to serve their country well and escape 
death usually, at the hands of the Emperor or their rivals, 
sometimes, however, by their own hands. For a time the air 
was full of rumors of suicide and uprisings; but in fact there 
was little of anything of the kind, even in Seoul; the stories 
of wholesale suicides are false. Beyond Seoul, and outside 
of a few of the larger towns in which greater numbers of the 
Yang-bans resided, there was scarcely any excitement of any 
kind. The Treaty then went into effect, on the whole 
quietly, under Marquis Ito who had negotiated it as the 
Representative of Japan. 

In this way the Japanese Government in Korea was sub- 
stituted for the Korean Government in all matters affecting 
the relations of foreign countries, and their nationals, to the 
peninsula. The retirement of the Foreign Legations fol- 
lowed logically and as a matter of course. It is needless to 
say that this change of responsibility for the conduct of these 
relations was accepted without dissent or formal protest from 
the Governments of the civilized world. Indeed, with the 
exception of Russia, all the nations supremely interested had 
acknowledged already that, under the Protocols of 1904, 
Korea had lost its claim to be recognized as an independent 
state in respect of its foreign affairs. 



CHAPTER XII 

RULERS AND PEOPLE 

A JUST appreciation of the mental and moral character- 
istics of alien races is a delicate and difficult task to achieve, 
even for the experienced student of such subjects. From 
others it is scarcely fair, no matter how favorable the oppor- 
tunities for observation may have been, to expect any large 
measure of real success in the accomplishment of this task. 
The more important reasons for the failure of most attempts 
in race psychology may be resolved into the following two: 
a limitation of the observer's own experiences, which prevents 
sympathy and, therefore, breadth of interpretation; and the 
inability to rise above the more strictly personal point of view. 
In both these respects, women are on the whole decidedly 
inferior to men; accordingly, their account of the ethnic 
peculiarities of the ideas, motives, and morals of foreign 
peoples is customarily less trustworthy. The inquirer after 
a judicial estimate of the native character will find this fact 
amply illustrated in Korea. But what is more weighty in its 
influence as bearing upon such a problem as that now 
under discussion is this: all the inherent difficulties are en- 
hanced when it is required to understand and appreciate an 
Oriental race by a member of a distinctively Western civiliza- 
tion. It is without doubt true that all men, of whatever race 
or degree of civilization, are essentially alike; they constitute 
what certain authorities in anthropology have fitly called "a 

spiritual unity." But for the individual who cannot expect 

280 



RULERS AND PEOPLE 281 

to find within himself whatever is necessary to understand 
and interpret this unity, and especially for the observer who 
does not care even to detect and recognize the existence of 
such a unity, the difference between Orient and Occident is 
a puzzle perpetually baffling and seemingly insoluble. 

Now in some not wholly unimportafit aspects of Korean 
character and Korean civilization, these difficulties exist in 
an exaggerated form. Korea is old in its enforced ignorance, 
sloth, and corruption; but Korea is new to rawness, in its 
response to the stimulus of foreign and Western ideas, and 
in its exposure to the observation, either careless and casual 
or patient and studious, of visitors and residents from 
abroad. Korea has not yet been awakened to any definite 
form of intelligent, national self -consciousness. At the same 
time, neither its material resources, nor its physical character- 
istics, nor its history and antiquities, nor its educational 
possibilities, nor the distinctive spirit of its people, have ever 
been at all thoroughly investigated by others. No wonder, 
then, that the views expressed by the "oldest residents" in 
Korea regarding the characteristics of its rulers and its 
people Emperor, late Queen, Yang-bans, pedlers, and 
peasants (for there is almost no middle class) are strangely 
conflicting. Diverse and even contradictory traits of char- 
acter are, with equal confidence and on the basis of an equally 
long and intimate acquaintance, ascribed by different persons 
to all these classes. 

The true and satisfactory account of these differences of 
opinion is not, however, to be found by wholly denying the 
justness of either of the opposite points of view. Contradic- 
tions are inherent in that very type of character of which the 
Koreans afford so many striking examples. Indeed, all peo- 
ples, when at a certain stage of race-culture, and the multitudes 
in all civilizations, are just that bundles of confused and 
conflicting ideas, impulses, and practices, which have never 



282 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

been unified into a consistent "character." The average 
Korean is not only liable to be called, he is liable actually to be, 
kindly and yet cruel, generous and yet intensely avaricious, 
with a certain sense of honor and yet hopelessly corrupt in 
his official relations. Accordingly, as one puts emphasis on 
this virtue to the exclusion or suppression of that vice, or 
turns the eye upon the dark and disgusting side of the picture 
and shuts out the side that might afford pleasure and hope, 
will one's estimate be made of the actual condition and future 
prospects of the nation. 

But let us begin our brief description with the man who has 
been for more than a generation the chief ruler of Korea, the 
now ex-Emperor. He is a typical Korean especially in 
respect of his characteristic weakness of character, his taste 
for and adeptness at intrigue, his readiness to deceive and 
corrupt others, and himself to be deceived and corrupted. 
For all this no specially occult reasons need to be assigned. 
With a weak nature, his youth spent under the pernicious 
influence of eunuchs and court concubines and hangers-on, 
his manhood dominated by an unceasing and bloody feud 
between his wife and his father, his brief period of "inde- 
pendence" one orgy of misrule, and his latest years con- 
trolled by sorceresses,, soothsayers, low-born and high-born 
intriguers, and selfish and unwise foreign advisers: what but 
incurably unsound character, uncontrollable instability of 
conduct, and a destiny fated to be full of disaster, could be 
expected from such a man so placed ? 

The father of the ex-Emperor was Yi Ha-eung, Prince of 
Heung Song, who was long the so-called "Regent" or 
" Prince-Parent," and is best known in history as the "Tai 
Won Kun." It has been said of him that "he was the 
grandson of a great and unfortunate crown prince, the 
great-grandson of a famous king, the nephew of another 
king, and the father of still another king." The lineal an- 



RULERS AND PEOPLE 283 

cestor of the Tai Won Kim was Yong-jong, who reigned 
from 1724 to 1776. This sovereign quarrelled with his own 
son and had him put to death as insane; but other issue 
failing, the crown descended through the murdered crown 
prince, and from him through three lines of monarchs. 
Until his son was chosen to occupy the throne, the Tai Won 
Kun, although he had married into the powerful Min family, 
does not iseem to have exercised much influence in politics. 
But in 1804, on the death of the king, without male issue 
the Dowager X^ueen Cho, by what is reported to have been 
a not altogether legitimate procedure, proclaimed the second 
son of the Tai Won Kun, then a boy of only twelve years, 
as the successor to the throne. 

Little is exactly known as to the care or education of the 
boyish king during his earliest years. It is commonly re- 
ported that he was fond of outdoor sports, especially of 
archery, and disinclined to study. Yet he is reputed to be 
a fine Chinese penman and to be well acquainted with the 
Chinese classics. His father was a strict disciplinarian and, 
although he was never legally in control of affairs during his 
son's minority, his influence was dominant so long as he 
kept on good terms with the wily Queen Dowager and the 
Ministers of her selection. The failure of all foreign at- 
tempts to enter into friendly relations with the Koreans, 
and the persecution and slaughter of foreign Christian 
priests and of thousands of Korean Christians during this 
period, are customarily attributed to the influence of the 
Tai Won Kun. 

When thirteen years of age, the new king was married to 
a girl selected for him from the Min family. But until 1873 
his position as ruler was only nominal; on the attainment of 
his majority, however, the deadly struggle between the wife 
and the father, the Queen and the Prince Parent, began to 
be revealed. A word as to the character of the woman is 



284 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

necessary in this place, in order to understand the conduct of 
the King and, as well, the recent history of Korea. The 
Queen was, without doubt, an unusually gifted and attractive 
woman, with the ability to attach others to her, both men 
and women, in a powerful way. But a more unscrupulous 
and horribly cruel character has rarely disgraced a throne, 
whether in ancient or in modern times. Her rivals among 
the women of the court were tortured and killed at her 
command; the adherents of the Tai Won Kun were de- 
capitated and their bodies thrown into the streets or their 
heads used to festoon the gateway. One of the Koreans 
acquainted with court affairs during her reign informed a 
friend of the writer that, by careful calculation, he had 
reckoned the number of 2,867 persons put to death as the 
victims of her personal hatred and ambition. The number 
seems incredible, and there is no way to verify it; but no 
one who knows the history of the Korean Court, even down 
to very recent years, will assert that it cannot be correct. 
The tragic death of this woman, not improperly, drew tem- 
porarily a veil over these atrocities. But their existence is 
a part of the proof that, pernicious as was much of the 
father's influence over the king, the influence of the wife and 
her family was yet more pernicious. 

It was under influences such as these that the royal char- 
acter of Yi-Hy-eung, now ex-Emperor, developed, and that 
all the earlier part of his reign was concluded. The result 
was to be expected namely, an amiable and weak nature 
rendered deceitful, cruel, and corrupt. The impression 
made by his presence as already described (see p. 46 f.) 
is not one of dignity and strength of character; but the voice 
is pleasant, the smile is winsome, the willingness to forgive 
and to do a good turn, if either or both can be done without 
too much sacrifice or inconvenience, is prompt and motived 
by kindly feeling. His Majesty is usually ready to listen 




The Ex-Emperor and Present Emperor. 



RULERS AND PEOPLE 285 

without malignant anger or lasting resentment to unwelcome 
advice and even to stern rebuke. On the other hand, as 
already said, he is a master of intrigue ; and more than once, 
until very lately, he has succeeded in quite surpassing at 
their own tricks the wily foreigners who thought to get an 
advantage over him. On the other hand, his ignorance and 
credulity \haye often rendered him an easy victim to the in- 
trigue of others. As one foreign minister, a stanch friend, 
said of him :\" You may give His Majesty the best advice, 
the only sensiole advice possible under the circumstances; 
he will assent cordially to all you say, and you leave him 
confident that your advice will be followed. Then some 
worthless fellow comes in, tells him something else, and what 
you have said is all wiped off the slate." 

In spite of his natural amiability this ruler has frequently 
shown a cold-blooded and calculating cruelty, made more 
conspicuous by ingratitude and treachery; and his reign 
has been throughout characterized by a callous disregard of 
the sufferings of the people through the injustice of his own 
minions. To quote again the estimate of a foreign minister : 
"His Majesty loves power, but seems' color-blind when it 
comes to- the faculty of distinguishing between the true and 
the false. He would rather have one of the Government 
Departments pay 20,000 yen in satisfaction of a debt which 
he owes than pay 5,000 yen out of his own purse. 1 And he 
allows himself to be cheated with the same sense of tolera- 

1 An amusing illustration of the ex-Emperor's way of filling his privy 
purse is found in the following authentic incident. At one time the 
large sum of 270,000 yen was wanted in cash to pay a bill for silks and 
jades which, it was alleged, had been purchased in China for Lady Om. 
When the request was made to exhibit the precious goods which had 
cost so enormous a sum, and which were going to make so large an 
unexpected drain upon insufficient revenues, the show of materials was 
entirely unsatisfactory. But, if not the goods, at least the bill itself 
could be produced. A bill was then brought to light, with the items 



286 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

tion which he has for those who cheat the Government, pro- 
vided that the culprit has the saving grace of a pleasing de- 
portment." One of his most able and upright Korean 
officials once declared: "It is true I am devoted to His 
Majesty, and I am sure he likes me; but if I were to be 
executed for some crime of which I was completely inno- 
cent, and a friend were to come to His Majesty, while he 
was at dinner, and implore his intercession, if it meant any 
danger, even the slightest, to him, he would leave me to my 
fate and go on eating with a good appetite." During the 
Boxer troubles in China a plot was devised by the reigning 
favorite of the Emperor, Yi Yong-ik, to kill all the foreigners 
in Korea; the plot was exposed, but the favorite did not 
suffer in his influence over the Emperor. Over and over 
again, in earlier days, the missionaries have appealed to him 
in vain to secure their converts against robbery and death 
at the hands of imperial favorites. It was formerly his 
custom to have at stated intervals large numbers of persons 
executed inconvenient witnesses, political suspects, ene- 
mies of men in power. This custom of indiscriminate "jail- 
cleaning" was, as far as it was safe and allowable under the 
growing foreign influences, continued down toward the 
present time. 

That the foregoing account of the character of the man 
who came to the throne of Korea, as a boy of twelve, in 1864, 
and abdicated this throne in 1907, is a true picture needs no 

made out in due form, but by a Chinese firm of merchants in Seoul 
instead of in China. The Chinese Consul-General, on being inquired 
of, replied that there was indeed such a reputable Chinese firm in the 
city; and he desired to have the matter further investigated lest the 
credit and business honor of his countrymen might suffer by connection 
of this sort with His Majesty's efforts to obtain ready money. Investiga- 
tion elicited the fact that a certain Court official had visited this firm 
and inquired how much such and such things would cost, if purchased 
in Shanghai. But no goods had been delivered or even actually ordered! 



RULERS AND PEOPLE 287 

additional evidence to that now available by the world at 
large. Strangely inconsistent in some of its features as it 
may seem to be, the portrait is unmistakably true to life. 
No wonder then, that, after exhausting all his resources of 
advice, rebuke, and warning, the Resident-General was 
regretfully forced to this conclusion : no cure for the tempera- 
ment and habits of His Majesty of Korea could possibly be 
found. But this had long been the conclusion of his own 
Cabinet Ministers and all others among the wiser of the 
Korean officials. It was finally by these Ministers, without 
the orders, consent, or even knowledge of the Marquis Ito, that 
in order to save the country from more serious humiliation 
and disaster, movements were initiated to secure his abdica- 
tion of the throne he had disgraced for more than forty years. 

As to the Korean ruling classes generally, the Yang-bans 
so-called, it may be said that for centuries they have been, 
with few exceptions, of a character to correspond with their 
monarchs. The latter have also been, with few exceptions, 
such in character as to represent either the weak side or the 
corrupt and cruel side, or both, of the ruler just described. 
This truth of "like king, like nobles," was amply illus- 
trated by the case of Kwang-ha, in the early years of the 
seventeenth century. When the monk Seung-ji induced this 
king to build the so-called "Mulberry Palace," thousands of 
houses were razed, the people oppressed with taxation, and 
the public offices sold in order to raise the funds. When the 
same monarch, yielding to the influences of his concubine 
and her party, committed the infamy of expelling the Queen- 
Dowager from Seoul, only one prominent courtier, Yi Hang- 
bok, with eight others, stood out against 930 officials and 
170 of the king's relatives who were ready to vote for the 
shameful deed. 1 

The proportion of courageous and honest officials con- 

1 See Hulbert, The History of Korea, II, p. 61 /. 



288 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

nected with the Korean Court had not greatly increased up 
to the time when Marquis Ito undertook the task of its 
purification. This fact, in itself, so discouraging to the 
effort at instituting reforms from above downward on the 
part of the Koreans themselves, is made obvious in a strik- 
ing way by the analysis of a brief, confidential description 
(a sort of official Korean "Who is Who?") of ninety-six 
persons, prepared by one well acquainted with the men and 
their history, but favorably disposed toward even preju- 
diced in favor of the side of Korea. Of these ninety-six 
officials, only five are pronounced thoroughly honorable and 
trustworthy characters; twenty-seven are classed as fairly 
good; the remainder are denominated very weak, or very 
bad. Subsequent developments have revealed the weakness 
or corruption of most of those whom this paper less than 
ten years ago pronounced to be on the whole either hopeful 
or positively good. What this means for Korea to-day can 
be judged by the following selected examples: (i) "A rather 
proud and rich member of the - Clan; a notorious 
squeezer, and one whose services may always be had for a 
price; absolutely unreliable and incapable of patriotic im- 
pulses." (2) " A contemptible but rich member of the - 
Clan; a most detestable oppressor of the people as shown in 
Pyeng Yang; incapable of good impulses apparently." (3) 
" A slippery self-made man; Emperor's private treasurer; 
Vice-Minister of Interior for many years; rose through in- 
fluence of his cousin, but not loyal to latter's memory; can- 
not be influenced except through fear or favor." (4) "A 
self-made man who might better have let out the job; has 
courage, and is unmercifully cruel and oppressive; is the 
most ignorant official in high office during twenty years." 
Yet this low-born and ignorant fellow had almost absolute 
control of the Emperor and of the country's finances for 
several years. 



RULERS AND PEOPLE 289 

The examples given above may serve to describe the one- 
third of the ninety-six officials characterized by extreme im- 
morality. Of the other one-third, whose services to their 
country are rendered available only for evil on account of 
their weakness, the following examples afford a sufficiently 
accurate description: (i) " Foreign Minister repeatedly; very 
deficientNin intelligence, but says little and looks wise; too 
feeble to bfe dishonest, but an easy tool for one who cares to 

use him." \a) "Governor of ; a weak, abominable 

man, who has opne well at , because kept in check by 

the Japanese; would be a scoundrel if the opportunity 
offered; a tool of Yi Yong-ik" (a man notorious for his 
corruption and oppression, on account of which some of the 
highest officials knelt before the Palace gate during the entire 
day and night of November 28, 1902, praying for his trial 
and punishment; but he was saved by the Emperor, who 
feared him; he was even subsequently brought back from 
banishment and restored to his post as " Director of the 
Imperial Estates"). (3) "An old man of remarkable his- 
tory; has been on all sides of the political fence; is good at 
times, and apparently a patriot, and then he will turn up on 
quite the opposite side." 

It cannot be supposed that an official class, so constituted 
and so thoroughly imbued with such unwholesome charac- 
teristics, would easily form within itself a party loyal to 
reform, and brave and strong enough to carry its loyalty out 
into practical effect. As a matter of fact no such political 
party has ever been formed and maintained to any successful 
issue, in the history of Korea. For this we may take the 
word of Mr. Homer B. Hulbert, who says, 1 regarding the 
formation of parties in 1575: "These parties have never 
represented any principle whatever. They have never had 
any platforms, but have been, and are, simply political clans 

1 The History o/ Korea, L, p. 339. 



2 9 o IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

bent upon securing the royal favor and the offices and emolu- 
ments that go therewith." In another work of the same 
author we are told: "From that day onward (middle of the 
sixteenth century) politics has been a war of factions, strug- 
gling for wealth and power, with no scruples against murder 
or other crime." The Koreans are, indeed, given to the 
formation of societies and parties of various descriptions; 
the more improper or nearly impossible are the ends to be 
reached, and the more clandestine and illicit the means em- 
ployed, the greater the temporary enthusiasm which they 
are likely to excite. All these parties have therefore one 
plank and one plan of action: to get the ear of the king, to 
seize upon and control the office-making power, and so to 
put in every lucrative or honorable position their own par- 
tisans. It is "the spoils system sublimated"; for there is 
"absolutely no admixture of any other element." 1 

On the other hand, this same factional and corrupt spirit 
among the ruling classes has made it certain that, "however 
good a statesman a man might be, the other side would try 
to get his head removed from his shoulders at the first op- 
portunity; and the more distinguished he became, the 
greater this desire would be. From that time (again the 
middle of the sixteenth century) to this, almost all the really 
great men of Korea have met a violent death.^/ . . . "No 
matter how long one lives in this country, he will never get 
to understand how a people can possibly drop to such a low 
estate as to be willing to live without the remotest hope of 
receiving even-handed justice. Not a week passes but you 
come in personal contact with cases of injustice and bru- 
tality that would mean a riot in any civilized country." 2 

As to the public justice when administered by such a 
ruling class, this has actually been what might have been 

1 See Hulbert, The History of Korea, II. , p. 54. 

2 Hulbert, The Passing of Korea, pp. 50, 58. 



RULERS AND PEOPLE 291 

expected. The one judicial principle universally recognized 
is that justice is worth its price; the side which can offer the 
largest bribe of money ot influence will uniformly win its 
case. Of justice in Korea, to quote from Mr. Hulbert again, 1 
there is "not much more than is absolutely necessary to hold 
the fabric of the commonwealth from disintegration." Until 
the Chino- Japan war, when Japanese influence made itself 
felt in a controlling way, the brutal spectacles were not in- 
frequent of \nen having their heads hacked off with dull 
swords, or their\bones broken by beating with a huge paddle. 
Death by poison with extract made by boiling the centipede 
was administered to prisoners. It was not till 1895 that the 
law was abolished which required the poisoning of mother, 
wife, and daughter for the man's treason, the poisoning of 
wife for his crime of murder or arson, and the enslaving of 
wife for his theft. When the reformers of 1894 ordered the 
restoration to their lawful owners of the lands and houses 
which had been illegally seized, numerous officials some of 
whom were well known in foreign circles as partners of con- 
cessions obtained through influence lost large fractions of 
their wealth because of the decree. 

After describing the Yang-ban as one sees him upon the 
streets or meets him in social gatherings at Seoul in the fol- 
lowing terms a "dignified, stately gentleman, self-centred, 
self -contented, naively curious about the foreigner, albeit in 
a slightly contemptuous fashion" a writer well acquainted 
with the Korean gentry goes on to say: "Experience teaches 
that this fine gentleman is not ashamed to live upon his 
relatives, to the remotest degree; that he disdains labor and 
knows nothing of business; that he is not a liar from malice, 
but that he is a prevaricator by instinct and habit. Even 
when he wishes to tell the truth, and nothing but the truth, 
it leaves his lips so embroidered with fanciful elaborations 

1 The Passing of Korea, p. 67. 



292 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

that the Father of lies would be glad to claim it for his own. 
With all that, he may, according to the accepted standards 
of his class, be an upright citizen, a kind husband, and a 
conscientious parent. And just as likely as not, he may 
possess qualities which endear him to the foreign observer." 

Under centuries of subjection to a ruling class having the 
character described above, the mental and moral character- 
istics- of the Korean people have been developed as might 
have been expected. The ethnic mixture from which the 
race has sprung is possessed of fine physical and spiritual 
qualities. The male members of the race, especially, are in 
general of good height, well formed, and capable of endur- 
ance and achievement in enterprises demanding bodily 
strength. They are undoubtedly fond of their ease and even 
slothful for man when not stimulated by hope or necessity 
is naturally a lazy animal as the impression from the rows 
of coolies and peasants squatted upon the ground and 
sucking their pipes, or lying prone in the sunlight, during 
the working hours of the day, bears witness. As for the 
Yang-ban, on no account will he do manual work. But, on 
the other hand, the lower classes make good workmen, when 
well taught and properly "bossed"; and their miners, for 
example, are said by experts to be among the best in the 
world. The success in manual pursuits of those who emi- 
grated to Hawaii some years ago testifies also to their inherent 
capacity. As has already been said, the Koreans are much 
given to forming all manner of associations; they are "grega- 
rious in their crimes as in their pastimes." When well treated 
they are generally good-natured and docile easy to control 
under even a tolerably just administration. Nor are they, 
probably, such cowards that they cannot be trained to acquit 
themselves well in war. 

The prevailing, the practically universal vices and crimes 
are those which are inevitable under any such government, if 



RULERS AND PEOPLE 293 

long continued, as that which has burdened and degraded 
the Korean populace from the beginning of their obscure 
history as a complex of kingdoms down to the present time. 
What their vices and crimes are can be learned even better 
from the lips of their professed friends than from those whom 
they regard as their open or secret enemies. Of the average 
Korean Mr. Hulbert 1 affirms: "You may call him a liar or 
a libertine, and he will laugh it off; but call him mean and 
you flick him on the raw." "In Korea it is as common to 
use the expression, 'You are a liar' as it is with us to say, 
* You don't say. ' . . . A Korean sees about as much moral 
turpitude in a lie as we see in a mixed metaphor or a split 
infinitive." As to his good nature: "Any accession of im- 
portance or prestige goes to his head like new wine and is 
apt to make him offensive." The same author, after saying 
of the Korean bullock, "This heavy, slow-plodding animal, 
docile, long-suffering, uncomplaining, would make a fitting 
emblem of the Korean people," goes on to describe his own 
disgust at the frequent sight of the drunken, brutal bullock- 
driver, venting his spleen on some fellow Korean by cruelly 
beating his own bullock. Torturing animals is a favorite 
pastime for both children and adults. The horrid brutality 
of the Korean mob, to which reference has already been 
repeatedly made, has been more than once witnessed by those 
now living in Seoul; it would speedily be witnessed again, if 
the hand of the Japanese Protectorate were withdrawn. 
For the Korean, when angry, is recklessly cruel and entirely 
careless of life, and resembles nothing else so much as a 
"fanged beast." 2 When combined with the superstition and 
the incredible credulity which prevail among the populace, 
this brutality constitutes a standing menace to the peace and 
life of the foreign population residing in the midst of them. 

1 The Passing of Korea, pp. 38, 41. 

2 IUd., p. 43, 



294 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

It was as late as 1888 that the mob, excited by the report that 
the Americans and Europeans were engaged in the business, 
for profit, of killing Korean babies and of cutting off the 
breasts of Korean women to use in the manufacture of con- 
densed milk, were scarcely repressed from wholesale arson 
and murder. 1 

I The anti- Japanese natives and foreigners have with more 
or less good reason complained that an increase of sexual 
impurity and of licensed vice has resulted from the Japanese 
Protectorate over Korea. Without entering upon the dis- 
cussion of the difficult problem involved in these charges, it 
is enough to say that "corruption of the Koreans" in this 
regard is scarcely a proper claim to bring forward, under 
any circumstances. It is of no particular significance to de- 
termine whether the statement of a recent writer that the 
exposure of their breasts on the streets is characteristic of 
Korean women generally, is a libel, or not. It is true, indeed, 
that the foreign lady who has done much to encourage among 
the natives of her own sex in Seoul a certain regard for the 
decencies of civilization, was accustomed, not many years ago, 
to provide herself with safety-pins and accompany their use 
upon the garments of the lower classes (women of the higher 
classes do not appear upon the streets) with a moral lecture. 
But to one acquainted with the unimportant influence of 
such exposure upon really vicious conduct among peoples of a 
certain grade of race-culture, the charge, whether true or not, 
is comparatively petty. Much more determinative is it to 
learn from their friendly historians that only one in ten of 
their songs could with decency be published; that almost all 
their stories are of a salacious character and, "however dis- 
creditable it may be, they are a true picture of the morals of 
Korea to-day"; and that among the lower classes "the utmost 

'See the account of the "Baby War" and "Breast Hunters," The 
History of Korea, II. , p. 245. 



RULERS AND PEOPLE 295 

promiscuity prevails. "A man may have half-a-dozen wives 
a year in succession. No ceremony is required, and it is 
simply a mutual agreement of a more or less temporary 
nature." 1 

As to business honesty^ or respect for property rights, as 
such7~there is alniosFnone of it among the people of Korea. 
But-wkat-eLc could_be especial uf pedlera. peasants, and 
coolies, who have lived under the corrupt and oppressive \/ 
government of such rulers during centuries ot time 7^ To u 
quote again irom the friendly historian: 2 *'In case a man 
has to foreclose a mortgage and enter upon possession of the 
property, he will need the sanction of the authorities, since 
possession here, as elsewhere, is nine points of the law. The 
trouble is that a large fraction of the remaining point is de- 
pendent upon the caprice or the venality of the official whose 
duty is to adjudicate the case. In a land where bribery is 
almost second nature, and where private rights are of small 
account unless backed by some kind of influence, the thwart- 
ing of justice is exceedingly common." More astonishing 
still, from our point of view, is the use made of the public 
properties, which until recently prevailed even in the city of 
Seoul, by the lowest of the people. Any Korean might extend 
his temporary booth or shop out into the street, and then, 
when people had become accustomed to this, quietly plant 
permanent posts at the extreme limit of his illicit appropria- 
tion. On being expostulated with, " he will put on a look of 
innocence and assert that he has been using the space for 
many years"; 3 indeed, "he inherited it from his father or 
father's father." To this day the making of false deeds, or 
the deeding of the same property to two different purchasers 
(by one false deed and one genuine, or by both false) is an 

1 The Passing of Korea, pp. 311, 319, 369. 

2 Ibid., p. 283. 

3 Ibid., p. 247. 



296 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

exceedingly common occurrence. If the native wanted a 
place for the deposit of his filth, and the drain near his house 
was already full, he dug a hole in the street; if he wanted dirt 
for his own use, he took it from the street. " Scores of 
times," says Hulbert, "I have come upon places where a hole 
has been dug in the street large enough to bury an ox." 
Meanwhile, petty stealing and highway robbery have been 
going on all over the land. This, too, is the practical morality 
of the Korean populace, when unrestrained by foreign con- 
trol, even down to the present time. 

A curious confirmation of the foregoing estimate of the 
mental and moral character of the people of Korea was 
afforded by the " confessions" which poured forth in perfervid 
language, ending not infrequently in a falling fit or a lapse 
into half-consciousness, from thousands of native Christians 
during the revival of 1906-1907. The sins which were con- 
fessed to have been committed since their profession of 
Christianity, were in the main these same characteristic vices 
of the Korean people. They included not only pride, jeal- 
ousy, and hatred, but habitual lying, cheating, stealing, and 
acts of impurity. 

It is, then, no cause for surprise that a recent writer 1 affirms: 
"If it seems a hopeless task to lift the Chinaman out of his 
groove, it is a hundred times more difficult to change the 
habits of a Korean. . . . The Korean has absolutely nothing 
to recommend him save his good nature. He is a standing 
warning to those who oppose progress. Some one has said 
that the answer to Confucianism is China; but the best and 
most completely damning answer is Korea." 

Can Korea such a people, with such rulers be reformed 
and redeemed? Can her rulers be made to rule at least in 
some semblance of righteousness, as preparatory to its more 
perfect and substantial form ? Can the people learn to prize 

1 Whigham, Manchuria and Korea, p. 185. 



RULERS AND PEOPLE 297 

order, to obey law, and to respect human rights ? Probably, 
yes; but certainly never without help from the outside. 
And this help must be something more than the missionary 
can give. It must lay foundations of industrial, judicial, and 
governmental reform: it must also enforce them Such 
political disease does not, if left alone, perfect its own cure. 
The knife of the surgeon is first of all needed; the tonic of 
the physician and the nourishment of good food and the 
bracing of a purer air come afterward. We cannot, there- 
fore, agree with the small body of Christian workmen now, 
happily, a minority who try to believe that the needed 
redemption of Korea could be effected by their unaided 
forces. A union of law, enforced by police and military, with 
the spiritual influences of education and religion, is alone 
available in so desperate a case as that of Korea to-day. 
It is to the task of a political reformation and education for 
both rulers and people in Korea that Japan stands com- 
mitted before the world at the present time. As represented 
by the Marquis Ito, she has undertaken this task with a good 
conscience and with a reasonable amount of hope. Among 
the administrative reforms in Korea 1 one of the most im- 
portant is the "Purification of the Imperial Court." This 
"singular operation the Resident- General caused to be 
resolutely carried out in July, 1906." At that time "men 
and women of uncertain origin and questionable character 
. . . had, in a considerable number, come to find their way 
into the royal palace, until it had become a veritable rendez- 
vous of adventurers and conspirators. Divining, fortune- 
telling and spirit-incanting found favor there, and knaves 
and villains plotted and intrigued within the very gates of the 
Court, in co-operation with native and foreign schemers 

1 See a pamphlet bearing this title as an "Authorized Translation of 
Official Documents published by the Resident-General, in Seoul, 
January, 1907," p. 7. 



298 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

without. By cheating and chicanery, they relieved the 
Imperial treasury of its funds, and in their eagerness to fill 
their pockets never stopped to think of what dangerous seeds 
of disorder and rapine they were scattering broadcast over 
the benighted peninsula." 

It must doubtless be confessed that under the ex-Emperor 
the efforts of the Residency- General to effect the needed 
reforms were successful only to a limited extent. But with 
his last piece of intriguing to " relieve the Imperial treasury 
of its funds," by sending a commission to the Hague Con- 
ference, "in co-operation with native and foreign schemers," 
the old era came quickly to an end. The history of its 
termination will be told elsewhere; but the fact has illumined 
and strengthened the hope that Korea, too, can in time 
produce men fit to rule with some semblance of honesty, 
fidelity, and righteousness. Meantime, they must be largely 
ruled from without. 

How this hope of industrial and political redemption may 
be extended to the people at large and applied to the different 
important interests of the nation, both in its internal and 
foreign relations, will be illustrated in the several following 
chapters. Now that the Emperor 1 is publicly committed 
to an extended policy of reform; that the Ministers are for 
the first time in the history of Korea really a Cabinet exer- 
cising some control; that the Resident-General has the 
right and the duty to guide and to enforce all the important 

1 During all my visit in Korea it was commonly reported by those 
intimate at Court that the Crown Prince was an imbecile both in body 
and in mind. But in his boyhood he was rather more than ordinarily 
bright, and his mother, the murdered Queen, was the most clever and 
brilliant Korean woman of her time. It is not strange, then, that since 
his accession to the throne and in view of his obviously sensible way of 
yielding to good advice from others, in spite of the evil influence of his 
father, the impression has been made that he might have been feigning 
imbecility in order to escape plots to assassinate him, which were formed 
in the interests of a rival claimant to the throne. 



RULERS AND PEOPLE 299 

measures necessary to achieve reform; that the foreign na- 
tions chiefly interested have definitively recognized the 
Japanese Protectorate; and that the leaders of the foreign 
moral and religious forces are so largely in harmony with 
the plans of Japan; now that all this is matter of past 
achievement, the prospects for the future of Korea are 
brighter than they have ever been before. One may reason- 
ably hope that the time is not far distant when both rulers and 
people will be consciously the happier and more prosperous, 
because they have been compelled by a foreign and hated 
neighbor to submit to a reformation imposed from without. 
That they would ever have reformed themselves is not to be 
believed by those who know intimately the mental and moral 
history and characteristics of the Koreans. 




/ 

/*-^. 



CHAPTER XIII 

RESOURCES AND FINANCE 

THE resources of the Korean peninsula have never been 
systematically developed; indeed, until a very recent date no 
intelligent attempt has ever been made to determine what 
they actually are. The Korean Government has usually 
been content with such an adjustment of ''squeezes" as 
seemed best to meet the exigencies of the times admin- 
istered according to the temperament and interests of the 
local magistracy. At intervals, however, the Court officials 
have carried their more erratic and incalculable method of 
extortion and of plundering the people rather widely into 
effect. Then those of their number who chanced to be His 
Majesty's favorites of the hour have enjoyed most of the 
surplus; the people have submitted to, or savagely and 
desperately revolted against, the inevitable; but the country 
at large has continued poor at all times, and has frequently 
been devastated by famine. As to the exploiting of Korea's 
resources by foreign capital, the facts have been quite uni- 
formly these : a combination of adventurers from abroad with 
Koreans who either possessed themselves, or through others 
could obtain "influence" at Court has been effected; some- 
times, but by no means always, the Emperor's privy purse 
has profited temporarily; but the main part of the proceeds 
has been divided among the native and foreign promoters. 
Of late years, some of the "concessions" have been almost, 

or quite, given away in the hope of thus obtaining foreign in- 

300 



RESOURCES AND FINANCE 301 

terference or sympathy. In only rare instances has the 
national wealth been greatly increased in this way, or even 
the treasury of the Government been made much the 
richer. 

It is plain, then, that if the Japanese Protectorate is to be 
made really effective for the industrial uplift and develop- 
ment of the Korean people, as well as capable of rewarding 
Japan for its expenditure in substantial ways, the resources 
of the country must be intelligently explored and system- 
atically developed. Here is where the work of reform must 
begin. In intimate relations with this work stands, of course, 
the establishment of a sound and stable currency. For the 
financial condition of Korea up to very recent times was as 
disgraceful as its industrial condition was deplorable. To 
this important task of developing the resources of Korea and 
reforming its finances, Marquis Ito, as Resident-General, 
and Mr. Megata, as Financial Adviser, have devoted them- 
selves with a patience, self-sacrifice, and skill, which ought 
ultimately to overcome the tremendous difficulties involved. 

"Korea," says the Seoul Press, "is essentially an agricul- 
tural country. Eighty per cent, of her population till the 
soil, and stinted as are the returns which the soil is will- 
ing to yield under the present method of cultivation, the 
produce from land constitutes at least ninety per cent, of 
the annual income of the country. To improve the lot of 
the toiling millions on the farms is therefore to improve the 
lot of virtually the whole nation. It was in recognition of 
this obvious fact that Marquis Ito, in addressing the leading 
editors of Tokyo, in February, 1906, previous to his departure 
for Korea to assume the duties of his newly appointed post as 
Resident- General, laid particular emphasis on the urgent 
importance of introducing agricultural improvements in this 
country. This question was consequently the very first to 
engage the serious attention of the authorities of the Resi- 



302 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

dency- General." 1 'The statistics for the year ending De- 
cember 31, 1906, show that out of an amount" of taxes esti- 
mated at 6,422,744 yen, the sum of 5,208,228 yen was 
apportioned to the land tax, and 234,096 yen to the house 
tax. The difficulty of collecting the taxes, either through 
the corruption of the officials, or by reason of the in- 
ability or inexcusable and often violent resistance of the 
people, can be estimated by the fact that, of the land tax 
2,214,823+^^ was still "outstanding," and of the house 
tax, 68,794+^w. 2 

The institution of an Experimental Station and Agricul- 
tural School at Suwon has already been described (p. 122 f.). 
But in order to accomplish the needed development of Korea's 
agricultural resources, the peasant farmers must themselves 
be induced to reform their methods of cultivation. As might 
be expected, however, the Korean peasant farmer is sus- 
picious of all attempts to improve his wasteful methods, is 
extremely " conservative " (a much-abused word) in his 
habits, and slow to learn. Some good work has, however, 
already been done by way of opening his eyes. The example 
of the Model Farm, which is limited to one locality, is sup- 
plemented by the example of the Japanese farmers who are 
settling in numerous localities. To take an instance: im- 
proved Japanese rice seed was distributed gratis in various 
parts of the country. But even then it was necessary to 
guarantee the farmers against loss in order to induce them 
to try the experiment of cultivating it. The result of the ex- 
periment was most encouraging. The yield was in every 
case greater than that obtained from the native seed ; in some 
cases the gain in the product being as much as from six to 
ten to (3-5 bushels) per tan (J acre). Similar experiments 

1 Issue of Saturday, March 16, 1907. 

2 So the report on the "State of the Progress of the Reorganization of 
the Finances of Korea, March, 1907." 



RESOURCES AND FINANCE 303 

are now in progress with the seed of barley and wheat, im- 
ported from Japan, America, and Europe. 

In intimate connection with these plans for developing the 
agricultural resources of Korea stands the project for utilizing 
the unreclaimed state lands. And surely here, at least, all 
those who have the slightest honest feeling of regard for the 
real interests of the country ought to wish that the people, 
and not the Court, and not the foreign promoter, should be 
primarily considered and protected. How great are the 
chances for waste, fraud, and unwise action in the distribu- 
tion of this form of the nation's resources, no other country 
has had better reason to know than has the United States. 

For the purpose of " Utilization . of Unreclaimed State 
Lands" a law was prepared under the advice, and by the 
urgency, of the Japanese Government, and promulgated in 
March of 1907. This law, including the Supplement, con- 
sists of seventeen articles, according to which all uncul- 
tivated lands, marshes and dry beaches not constituting 
private properties, will be included in the category. On 
application to the Minister of Agriculture, Commerce and 
Industry, these lands will be leased for a period not exceeding 
ten years. The Minister of Agriculture, Commerce and 
Industry is authorized to sell or give gratis the leased lands 
to lessees who have successfully carried out the prescribed 
work on them. For the five years following the year in 
which such a sale or bestowal has taken place, taxation on 
these lands will be at the rate of one-third of the tax levied 
on the lowest class lands of the province of which they form 
a part. The lessees will be unable to sell, transfer or mort- 
gage the leased lands without permission of the Minister 
above mentioned. Charters for lands on which the pre- 
scribed work has not been started within one year of the date 
of their granting shall be cancelled, also those for lands on 
which the work, after commencement, does not make sum- 



3 o 4 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

cient progress unless proper reason for that can be shown. 
Any person who utilizes unreclaimed state lands in violation 
of the present law will be liable to a fine of between five and 
two hundred yen inclusive. In the case of the utilization of 
unreclaimed state land less than three cho (some 7 acres) in 
area, the present law will not be applied for the time being, 
the old custom in force being adhered to. Possessors of 
charters for the utilization of unreclaimed state lands which 
have been obtained before the promulgation of the new law 
and which are still valid must apply to the Minister of Agri- 
culture, Commerce and Industry for their recognition within 
three months of the date of enforcement of the present 
law. When the lessees who have obtained such recognition 
have succeeded in carrying out the prescribed work on the 
leased lands, the lands will be presented to them by the 
Government. 

Another important part of the development of the agricul- 
tural resources of Korea is the introduction of wholly or 
largely new products of the land. This is, indeed, a more 
truly "experimental," and in some cases highly speculative, 
procedure. There will doubtless be, as its inevitable ac- 
companiment, a larger percentage of failures; there maybe, if 
the experiments are not intelligently made and hedged about 
with educational and legal precautions, financial losses which 
the poverty of the country can ill afford to bear. There is, 
perhaps, peculiar danger of this under the dominant Japan- 
ese influences; for Japan has herself not as yet, industrially 
and financially, got her heel firmly on the ground. Experi- 
ments of various kinds, of a highly speculative character, 
are still according to the mind of the nation at large. But 
the Government of Japan is meantime training its own 
young men to a more thorough scientific acquaintance with 
the facts and laws which determine industrial prosperity; 
and under the administration of the Residency-General in 



RESOURCES AND FINANCE 305 

Korea the Japanese Government is committed to the plan 
of giving to the Koreans also the fullest share in the benefits 
of this training. 

To mention a single instance of the class of projects to 
which reference has just been made, we quote the following 
paragraph from an official paper: 1 

The climate of Korea is thought to be well suited for cotton 
cultivation. Whether through misjudgment in the choice of the 
seed, or blunders in the method, the experiments made in this 
direction have, however, been so far fruitless of satisfactory re- 
sults. Taking this fact to heart, those Japanese and Koreans in- 
terested in the matter, some time ago formed "A Cotton Cultiva- 
tion Association," and memorialized the Korean Government of 
their resolution to carry through their aim. Lending its ears to 
their memorial, the Government decided on a plan to open a 
cotton nursery, to be first sown with the imported, continental 
seed, then to distribute among planters at large the seed obtain- 
able from the crop; and also to start a cotton-ginning factory 
with the special object of preventing the seed from being waste- 
fully thrown away. It was then arranged for this purpose to dis- 
burse a sum of 100,000 yen, distributed over several years, com- 
mencing in 1906. The management of the undertaking was first 
placed wholly in the hands of the "Cotton Cultivation Association," 
and the Resident- General intrusted the supervision of the Associa- 
tion's work to the Residency-General's Industrial Model Farm. 
In its turn, however, the Association asked the Farm to take over 
the entire business primarily placed in its control. The request 
being granted, the Farm opened a branch office at Mok-pho on 
the 1 5th of June, 1906, calling it the " Kwang-yo Mohan jo Mok- 
pho Branch." There were selected ten sites for cotton beds 
(covering altogether 51 cho, 2 six tan, or about 120 acres, of land in 
Mok-pho); and forthwith commenced work. The site for the 
cotton-ginning factory was chosen in Mok-pho, and its buildings 
are now completed. 

1 Administrative Reforms in Korea, p. 18. 

2 A cho is nearly 2,\ acres r 



3 o6 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Of the same character as the project for raising cotton in 
Korea, although rather less experimental, are the plans for 
increasing the product of tobacco. Of this Mr. Megata says 
in his last report: "Investigations are being made of the 
various sources of wealth, of which tobacco is regarded as 
the most promising. Practical examination as to the state 
of tobacco manufacture in this country was started in the 
preceding years. Exertion is being made by the Govern- 
ment for the extension of the general demand for Korean 
tobacco. Better qualities of it were selected and sent to the 
Tobacco Monopoly Bureau of Japan for trial manufacture. 
The improvement of its planting and manufacture and of 
the selection of seed is being studied. For the purpose of 
investigating the relation between the climate and tobacco- 
planting, the survey of the climate of the country was com- 
menced; and the result of the investigation is now to be 
taken into consideration for the safety and progress of that 
industry in this country. Korean youths to engage in the 
investigation of the resources of national wealth are being 
trained for the task." 

Next to agriculture in importance stands the development 
of forestation in Korea. The Koreans have never given any 
attention to the art of growing trees either for timber or for 
fuel. The late Tai Won Kun, as one of the ways adopted by 
him for ruining the country while building a palace for his 
son, ordered every owner of large, serviceable trees through- 
out the land to cut them down and transport them to Seoul 
at his own expense. Day by day, and hour by hour, the 
Korean populace, to the number of thousands of old men, 
women, and boys, with hundreds of bullocks and ponies, 
are engaged in exterminating the future forests in order to 
provide themselves with fuel, of which they will not be 
persuaded to make economical use, and which they cannot 
dispense with so long as their present tastes and contrivances 




C 

o 
U 



RESOURCES AND FINANCE 307 

for heating themselves and cooking their food are not changed. 
Hence, all over the more frequented parts of Korea the 
hills and mountains, unless in comparatively rare cases 
they are especially protected, are denuded and barren. 
This constant deforestation has its customary inevitable 
results. In dry seasons there are those chronic water 
famines which discourage the farmer's cheerful industry, 
and which encourage him to hatred of the government, to 
refusal to pay taxes, and to violent and murderous revolt. 
But when there is abundance of rain, then follow inundations, 
almost as destructive to the fields as are the droughts. Min- 
ing and all other industries suffer from the same source. 
Thus, as says the Report of the Residency- General, when 
"seen from the economic, sanitary, or political point of view, 
one of the greatest needs of Korea at present is the rehabilita- 
tion of its forests." The task involved in this matter of 
industrial reform and development of resources is, however, 
of the most difficult order. The rights of the people, not 
only to use as they please their own trees, but to plunder 
the hill and mountain sides of their fuel, regardless of 
ownership, are firmly established by usage. In the bitter 
weather of winter much suffering would ensue, and its 
consequent political disturbance, if these customs were 
suddenly and extensively controlled. Nevertheless, model 
forests have been established and instruction in foresta- 
tion is given to Korean youths in a school founded for that 
purpose. Below are given the names of localities and the 
sizes of the model forests so far established, with their 
outlays: 1 

" Koan-ak-san and three other places in the vicinity of 
Seoul. Total area 2,060 cho. Outlay, about 152,000 yen, 
distributed over five years, commencing 1907. 

" Tai-syong-san and two other places in the vicinity of 

1 See Administrative Reforms in Korea, p. 19. 



IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Pyeng-yang. Total area 610 cho. Outlay, about 63,000 
yen, distributed over five years, commencing 1908. [Nursery 
beds expected to be opened in 1907.] 

" Oa-yong-san and one other place in the vicinity of Taiku. 
Total area 650 cho. Outlay, about 63,000 yen, distributed 
over six years, commencing 1908. [Nursery beds expected 
to be started in 1907.]" 

The more important resources of this class are, however, the 
existing forests along the banks of the Yalu and Amur rivers. 
Indeed, the desire to gain control of this wealth of timber 
was one of the more immediate causes leading to the Russo- 
Japanese war; it is still one of the more difficult points for 
satisfactory adjustment on the part of the three nations chiefly 
concerned. For the development of these resources an agree- 
ment between Japan and Korea was signed on October 19, 
1906, by the Marquis Ito and the Korean Prime Minister, 
the Minister of Finance, and the Minister of Agriculture, 
Commerce and Industry. The text of this agreement and 
a brief introduction, stating 'its importance, is given in Mr. 
Megata's last report. 1 "The banks along the Yalu and 
Amur," says this report, "are rich in forests which have 
never been cut. Proper management of those forests would 
yield a considerable revenue to the treasury; but at the 
same time it would require not a little expense. In the 
present condition of the Korean finances it would not be 
wise to undertake this on the account of Korea alone, although 
the opening up of such a source of wealth is highly necessary. 
An agreement was concluded between the governments of 
Japan and Korea in October last to carry on the forestry 
along those banks on their joint account, each government 
investing 600,000 yen. The agreement newly concluded 
reads as follows: 

1 State of the Progress of the Reorganization of the Finances of Korea, 
March, 1907, p. 20. 



RESOURCES AND FINANCE 309 

The Governments of Japan and Korea, regarding the forests 
in the districts along the Yalu and Amur rivers to be the richest 
source of wealth on the Korean frontier, hereby agree on the 
terms mentioned below as to the management of those forests: 

Art. i. The forests in the districts along the Yalu and Amur 
rivers shall be subject to the joint management of the Govern- 
ments of Japan and Korea. 

Art. 2. The fund for the management shall be 1,200,000 yen, 
a half of which shall be invested by each Government. 

Art. 3. As to the management of the forests and its income 
and expenditure, a special account shall be created in order to 
make them clear. 

The details of the account shall be notified to each Government 
once a year. 

Art. 4. The profit or loss of the undertaking shall be divided 
between the two Governments in proportion to the amounts of 
their investments. 

Art. 5. In case necessity arises to increase the investment 
stated in the Art. 2, it shall be done, on the recognition of both 
Governments. 

Art. 6. In case necessity arises to enact detailed rules in order 
to enforce the present agreement, it shall be submitted to the 
hands of commissioners appointed by both Governments. 

Art. 7. On the progress of the undertaking, when necessity 
arises to change its organization into a company ,so as to enable 
the subjects of both the countries to join in the undertaking, 
the necessary processes shall be determined by an agreement 
of both Governments. 

For centuries Korea has been reputed to be rich in deposits - 
of gold; and it is a fact that Japan, by trading with Korea, 
obtained most of this precious metal, which the Dutch, by 
shrewd management of their relations in trade with Japan, 
carried off to Holland. Both these Oriental countries in 
this way contributed to the enrichment of a limited number 
of Europeans. But the real condition of the mining re- 



310 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

sources of the peninsula has never been investigated; even 
the amount of the annual product of gold has never been 
accurately ascertained; and worst of all there have never 
been any laws or accepted principles to govern the mining 
industry. The result of all this ignorance, confusion and 
fraud is not difficult to conjecture. "Some mines," says 
the official report, " are under the direct control of the Minister 
of Agriculture, Commerce and Industry; with others the 
granting of a concession rests with the Chief of the Mining 
Bureau; with others again, the subordinate officials on the 
spot have it in their power to allow or disallow their working; 
and to make confusion worse confounded, there are even 
mines operated under patents secretly granted by the Em- 
peror without consulting the Cabinet. This chaotic state 
of things is bad enough, but it does not stop here. For in 
some cases the concessions granted are cancelled without 
compensation; while in other cases, one and the same mining 
district has been leased to several persons one after another 
until it has become utterly impossible to tell which is the 
rightful concessionaire. Then, again, there are cases in 
which the Departments of Agriculture, Commerce and 
Industry, of Finance, and of the Imperial Household, 
severally and independently, have levied mining taxes to 
suit their own convenience; while in others, the provincial 
authorities quite arbitrarily collect imposts. In the midst 
of this indescribable confusion, the cunning and unscrupulous 
have not been slow to make the most of the situation, by 
having recourse to bribery, instigation, intimidation, and 
other unlawful schemes, until vast tracts of mining lands 
have come under their control." 1 

To remedy, as far as possible, these evils and to limit their 
continuance into the future, a General Mining Law was 
proclaimed on July 12, 1906, and a Placer Mining Law on 

1 Administrative Reforms in Korea, p. 15. 



RESOURCES AND FINANCE 311 

the 28th of the same month. Both these laws' were ac- 
companied by the enactment of detailed rules. The principal 
features of these laws provided that mines, whose ownership 
could not be definitely ascertained, should revert to the state; 
that the limits of mining concessions should be definitely 
prescribed ; that mining rights which could be established as 
legally gained should be legally protected; that the taxes 
on mining properties should be unified; and that priority of 
application, in cases of competing concessions, should, until 
examination could be made, stop the granting to others of the 
same concession in an arbitrary way. In the effort to put into 
effective operation these legal enactments it was necessary 
to call upon the Korean authorities to promulgate a list of 
the mines belonging to the Imperial Household, and also a 
list of such Crown mines as the Household might intend 
to work for itself. But the Korean authorities, either from 
ignorance, sloth, or other even less creditable reasons, did not 
make haste to prepare such a list. Meantime, all mining 
rights were, legally considered, in abeyance. It was only 
after repeated and urgent remonstrances from the Resident- 
General, and as late as November 17, 1906, that the required 
list was promulgated. It then appeared that the Imperial 
Household not only laid claim to mines claimed by Japanese, 
but also by American and European concessionaires. 

The falsity of the statement, so repeatedly made abroad, that 
the Koreans are being robbed by Japanese, to the detriment 
of the interests of other foreigners, under the protection of 
the Japanese Government in Korea, is made obvious by the 
following, among other facts. Had the applicants to these 
contested claims been only Japanese or Koreans, they would 
have been required to survey the properties and make out 
maps at their own expense; but in deference to the interests 
of the American and European claimants the survey was 
made by experts at the expense of the state. And while only 



312 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

twenty per cent, of the 200 applications made by Japanese 
were granted, "virtually all the applications made by Amer- 
icans and Europeans were granted." 

Besides gold, which is found especially in the form of gold- 
dust, there are in Korea silver, copper, graphite, and coal. 
The coal is not good for steaming purposes, nor fitted for 
export; but when made, by mixing it with earth, into bricks 
or balls, it is valuable as fuel for those who can afford its use. 
The total annual value of these mineral products, for reasons 
already explained, cannot be accurately ascertained. Hith- 
erto-much of the gold has been smuggled out of the country 
in order to escape the export and other taxes. It is calculated, 
however, by the Residency- General that in the aggregate 
these products do not fall below 6,000,000 yen. 

We shall not attempt to speak in detail of the other natural 
resources of Korea, of its fisheries, or its sericulture, or its 
raising of fruit. But all these have been in the past left in a 
lamentable condition of ignorance and disorder; and all 
of these are to be made objects of attention, with the purpose 
of reform, by the Korean Government under the Japanese 
Protectorate. 

. What has been shown to be true of the natural resources of 
Korea, in soil, forests, mines, and other products, is true of its 
j manufacturing industries. Early in her history Korea 
attained a considerable development in the arts of weaving, 
pottery, paper-making, metal-casting, and the dressing of 
skins. In several instances Japan borrowed her models 
from Korea in all these lines of the industrial arts. But 
to-day there is absolutely nothing that a foreign traveller 
would covet to take away from Korea except, perhaps, a 
Korean brass-bound chest or a set of its rude brass utensils 
for holding food. The founding of an Industrial Training 
Institute in the spring of 1907, and a statement of what it 
proposes to try to accomplish for the revival and development 



RESOURCES AND FINANCE 313 

of Korean industrial arts, have been referred to in an earlier 
chapter (p. i28f.). Its practical results must be awaited with 
patience; but now that the control of the Resident- General 
over internal affairs in Korea is increased by the Convention 
of July, 1907, we may reasonably anticipate favorable results 
in due time. 

The matter of the Customs stands midway between the 
development of the natural resources and the control of 
finance; it therefore concerns both the topics which are being 
briefly treated in this chapter. The following quotation 
from the last report of the Financial Adviser to the Korean 
Government gives all the information necessary to our 
purpose upon this point: 

On the conclusion of the Russo-Japanese war, trade on the X 
Yalu River became suddenly prosperous. It is a well-known 
fact that the districts along the river are rich in various sources 
of wealth, the opening up of which depends greatly upon the 
facility of transportation, as well as the prosperity of trade in 
those districts. While making arrangements for the convenience 
of traders at large, the prevention of illegal traders, as smugglers, 
is being carried out more strictly than ever before; and a healthy 
development of the trade is thus aimed at. On the seventh of 
June, a branch office of the Chemulpo Customs was established in 
Shin-Wiju. On the third of August last, a Customs Agency of 
this branch office was commenced at Yong-am-po, and an Inspec- 
tion Station at Wiju. On the first of October last the Chin- 
nam-po Branch Office of the Chemulpo Customs was promoted to 
an independent office, and the above-mentioned branch offices, 
agency, and station were transferred to its jurisdiction. 

The increase of trade after the Russo-Japanese war was not 
limited to the banks of the Yalu River. A similar increase was 
also shown in Northern Korea, and a sufficient equipment to 
meet the customs demands of this increase was lacking. As a 
means of meeting the present requirements, the reconstruction of 
the Song-chin Customs Godown, which had been destroyed by 



3 14 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

fire during the war, was commenced in June last, and completed 
in the following October. In September last, the construction of 
the Customs Wharf at Song-chin was commenced and completed 
in November. The Wonsan Customs had not been provided with 
sufficient sheds, and consequently damage to the goods was an 
affair of frequent occurrence. Sheds were newly built there in 
December last. Steam launches were provided in the Customs 
of Chemulpo, Fusan, Wonsan, Chinnam-po and Mokpo, for 
purposes of inspection. 

Though Japanese have now been appointed as Commissioners 
at Chemulpo and Fusan, the customs business is being managed 
in essentially the same way as when those offices were being held 
by Europeans, but not without some changes. From the first of 
September last, the institution of new customs regulations was 
undertaken. In October the service rules for customs officials 
were issued, and uniforms were prescribed for officials of the out- 
door service. In November the jurisdiction of each customs office 
was clearly defined. Uniformity of taxes was arranged. The 
work was divided into several departments and sections. Various 
procedures in the collection of customs were altered. The new 
arrangements are intended both to regulate and to expedite the 
work of customs; but the before-mentioned concern matters of 
internal administration only. As to the reform of more funda- 
mental matters, this must be undertaken in connection with the 
reconstruction of harbors, customs, accommodations on land, and 
the building of lighthouses. The Customs Maritime Works De- 
partment has been organized for this purpose the first stage of 
the work to be concluded in 1911. As the port regulations now 
in force do not fit the present conditions in each port, alterations 
are now being planned. In February last the method of quaran- 
tine inspection was altered. The accounts of the Korean Cus- 
toms Department have hitherto been separate from the Korean 
Government accounts the revenue and expenditure of the former 
not being entered in the annual budget. [On the last item the 
Report of the Residency-General upon Administrative Reforms 
remarks that the impropriety of this omission is obvious.] They 
are, however, entered in the budget of 1907 for the first time. 



RESOURCES AND FINANCE 315 

The development of the resources of any country is, of 
course, intimately dependent upon the soundness and wis- 
dom of its financial policy and administration. This is in- 
creasingly so under modern conditions in countries where 
international relations are of the greatest importance. Noth- 
ing could have been worse than the chaotic condition of 
the Korean finances when Mr. Megata, in conformity with 
the Convention signed between Japan and Korea on the 22d 
of August, 1905, was appointed Financial Adviser to the 
Korean Government by the Imperial Japanese Govern- 
ment. 1 Mr. Hulbert, who afterward became the most un- 
sparing critic of Mr. Megata's policy, himself wrote in the 
Korean Review, in 1903: "It is encouraging to note that 
every part of the Korean Executive has come to the conclu- 
sion that something has got to be done to put Korea's money 
system on a more secure foundation." It was, however, 
largely this same "Korean Executive" which had been 
chiefly responsible for the deterioration of the currency and 
for the entire confusion in the financial condition of the 
country. On this matter of the deterioration of the currency, 
the Financial Adviser says in one of his Reports: 2 "The 
currency of Korea, though nominally on a silver basis, has 
hitherto in reality possessed no standard, and only cash and 
nickel coins have been in circulation. Before the com- 
mencement of the reorganization of the currency, the market 
rate of the nickel coins fell to 250 won for 100 yen in gold 
(Japanese currency); while that of the cash fluctuated from 
100 per cent, to 60 per cent, premium. All cash pass at a 
uniform rate in spite of their different sizes and weights. 
The market rate varies according to the condition of supply 

1 It should be noted in this connection that this appointment is one 
of the very few which, like that of. the Resident-General, proceed 
directly from the Emperor of Japan himself. 

2 Summary of the Financial Affairs of Korea, p. 5. 



3 i6 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

and demand. When the market rate is equivalent to one 
rin (i-iooo yen Japanese currency) it is called par; when it 
is 2 rin, the cash is at 100 per cent, premium. Cash are pre- 
ferred in some provinces, nickel coins in other provinces. 
Since the commencement of the withdrawal of the old nickel 
coins in June, 1905, the market rate has gradually risen, and 
at present it is steady at the normal rate of 200 won to 100 
yen. (According to the Currency Law, the face value of 
the old nickel coin is 2.5 sen, its intrinsic value being 2 sen)." l 
Nor was the chaotic state of the currency the only evil con- 
nected with its use. The cash, while having the preference 
over the nickel coins because its intrinsic value was more 
nearly equal to its market value, and it was therefore more 
stable, was intolerably inconvenient for monetary transac- 
tions of any considerable size. Its value was so low as to 
make it not worth the risk of counterfeiting. But even the 
traveller for a few weeks in the country could pay his expenses 
only by taking along several mule-loads of these petty coins. 
The nickels, on the contrary, were exceedingly unstable, and 
were subject, to wholesale debasement and counterfeiting. 
It is true, as Mr. Hulbert charges, that " counterfeit nickels 
were made largely by the Japanese in Osaka"; but it is also 
true that these coins were counterfeited in large quantities by 
the Chinese, and that the worst offenders were the Koreans 
themselves. Here, as everywhere during the contempo- 
raneous history of Korean affairs, it was the " Korean Execu- 
tive " which was chiefly to blame. In some cases the Govern- 
ment loaned its coining machine for a money consideration; 
in others, the "promoter of the minting industry" was 
obliged to content himself with a manufacturing outfit ob- 
tained on private account. In this connection the author 

1 In interpreting this it should be remembered that the Japanese sen 
is equal in value to one-half a cent in American gold, or about one 
farthing in English currency. 100 sen=i yen, and 1,000 rin=i yen. 



RESOURCES AND FINANCE 317 

calls to mind an astonishing but authentic story of how'a 
boy, deputed by his father to return to a benevolent associa- 
tion in Seoul a sum of money which had been originally 
stolen by the trusted agent of this association and loaned to 
the father, stole the money again and spent it in the purchase 
of a counterfeiting machine. It should be added that these 
remarkable transactions were of recent occurrence. 

Japanese counterfeiters were arrested, tried and punished, 
after the passage of a law by the Diet making it an offence to 
counterfeit foreign money in Japan, with the same penalties 
as those applied to cases of counterfeiting Japanese money. 1 
Even before that, administrative measures were taken by the 
Japanese to break up the illicit industry. So far as Korean 
offenders were concerned, nothing was done to punish the 
chief culprits. In fact, the Korean Government was hardly 
in a position to do anything, having itself made large over- 
issues of nickels, and even surreptitiously farmed out the 
right to private individuals to coin them. This right was 
exercised, among others, by a relative of the Emperor. 
Doubtless this official malfeasance is what Mr. Hulbert al- 
ludes to when he speaks of the " prime movers in the deteriora- 
tion of the currency." 

The history of this nickel coinage is another illustration of 

1 "There had been," says Mr. D. W. Stevens, "some criticism be- 
cause such a law was considered necessary; and Japanese legal pro- 
cedure was accused of being defective, on this account, by certain 
foreign critics. But in the late seventies the British Court at Yoko- 
hama released a man who had been detected counterfeiting Japanese 
money, on the ground that there was no British law under which to 
punish him, and that Japanese law against counterfeiting did not apply 
to British subjects in Japan. And the highest British courts have held 
that a contract to smuggle goods into a foreign country is a valid con- 
tract as between British subjects in Great Britain." The entire matter 
is dwelt upon at such length because it illustrates so well the inability of 
the Koreans for "independent" management of their own internal 
affairs, and also the animus and propriety of much of the anti- Japanese 
criticism, 



3i8 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

the opera bouffe methods which characterize Korean public 
administration. The discovery of the potentialities of fiat 
currency probably came in the nature of a revelation to 
Korean officialdom. It opened vistas of profit never before 
dreamed of; all that was needed was the raw material and a 
machine. Finally the industry ceased to be as remunerative 
as at first; and the "Korean Executive," all branches 
of it, discovered (in 1903) that, sooner or later, even a nickel 
coinage will find its true level. 

Such, briefly described, was the deplorable state of the 
financial affairs of Korea when Mr. Megata's administration 
began. This was only a brief time ago, or in 1905. What 
has already been accomplished for the reform of the Ko- 
rean finances may be summarized as follows. 1 The first 
step taken was the adoption of the gold standard, followed 
by the promulgation of a law strictly prohibiting the private 
minting of nickel coins, and the endeavor to recall this cur- 
rency already in circulation. Measures were also taken to 
popularize the circulation of notes issued by the Dai Ichi 
Ginko (First Bank), and to enlarge the sphere of circulation 
for the coins newly introduced. "The organ for the circula- 
tion of money and the collection of the taxes having been 
now fairly well provided, efforts will be made to restrict and 
ultimately prohibit the circulation of the fractional cash now 
in use in the three southern provinces, by encouraging the 
employment of notes in accordance with the law regulating 
currency." "As regards the bank-notes issued by the 
General Office of the First Bank in Korea, the Korean Gov- 
ernment has officially sanctioned their compulsory circula- 
tion. But, it being deemed desirable to have said Govern- 
ment grow firm and content in the idea that the notes are the 
national currency, a contract was concluded in July, last 

1 The quotations are from the pamphlet, Administrative Reforms in 
Korea, p. n /. 



RESOURCES AND FINANCE 319 

year (1906), between the Government and the First Bank, 
providing that the pattern and denomination of the notes 
shall be subject to the approval of the. Resident- General and 
the Korean Minister of Finance; that the amount of their 
issue and of the reserve be reported every week to the said 
Minister; that the Korean Government have the power to 
institute inquiries and examinations with respect to the 
issue of notes; and that the bank be placed under reasonable 
obligations in return for the exclusive privilege of issuing 
notes." 

The General Office of the First Bank at Seoul has now 
been made the Central Treasury of the Government of 
Korea; and therefore receives on deposit and pays out the 
exchequer funds. It is under the competent management 
of Mr. Ichihara, who, after several years of study of eco- 
nomics and finance in the United States, became prominent 
as a banker in Japan, and was subsequently chosen Mayor 
of Yokohama. Its branches and sub-branches throughout 
Korea are assisted by the postal organs in handling the 
exchequer funds. "Notes Associations," which undertake 
to popularize the circulation of reliable negotiable bills, and 
Agricultural and Industrial Banks, established at different 
centres for the accommodation of long loans, are also in 
part the results of Mr. Megata's reform of the Korean 
finances. The most important, and doubtless most difficult, 
thing remaining to be done is the purifying and reorganization 
of the revenue system. For, as has already been repeatedly 
indicated, nothing can exceed the measure of ignorance, 
extortion and corruption, which has hitherto characterized 
the conduct of the provincial administrative organs. 

Perhaps the most difficult problem with which the newly 
appointed Financial Adviser to the Korean Government had 
to cope was the retirement of the nickel currency. The solu- 
tion of this problem was indeed difficult, but it was abso- 



320 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

lutely indispensable to the very beginning of any systematic 
reform. The distinction between spurious and genuine 
coins was scarcely possible; the distinction between those 
counterfeited without, and those counterfeited with, the 
sanction of the " Korean Executive" was impossible. The 
amount of both kinds was hard to determine. According to 
Mr. Megata's calculation, the old nickel coins minted by 
the Government amounted in value to 17,000,000 won; 
while the spurious, but not debased, coins in circulation may 
have amounted to some 4,000,000 won. 1 His plan involved 
both the exchange of the old nickel coins for new coins of a 
standard value and issued under proper safeguards and re- 
strictions, in accordance with the newly inaugurated gold 
basis; and also the reduction of the cash by re-minting such 
coins as were deficient and returning the balance to circula- 
tion. From October, 1905, the coinage of silver ten-sen 
pieces and of bronze one-sen and one-half -sen pieces was 
begun. By these it was intended to displace the circulation 
of the old nickel coins. The coins tendered for exchange 
were classified into three classes: Class A coins exchanged 
at the rate of 2 old for i new coin; Class B coins exchanged 
at the rate of 5 old for i new coin; and Class C counterfeit 
and debased coins, defaced and returned to the applicants. 
By these means there was withdrawn from circulation of old 
coins, between July i and October 15, 1905, in Korean 
dollars to the amount of 10,722,162,. of which, however, 
1,411,184 were received in payment of taxes. 

So radical a change in the currency of the country could 
not be accomplished without working hardship in certain 
directions. But those who have carefully examined the 
existing condition of Korean finances and the working in 
detail of the plans for reform find reason for 'praising the 
prudence and skill of Mr. Megata's way of accomplishing a 

1 See Summary of the Financial Affairs of Korea, p. 5. 



RESOURCES AND FINANCE 321 

most difficult task. The details are to be found, carefully 
worked out and tabulated, in the official reports. It is enough 
for us to recognize the enormous change for the better which 
has taken place during the past two years in the financial 
condition of the peninsula, and in all the foreign financial 
relations to Korean business affairs; and, at the same time, 
to reply with a brief, categorical denial to certain criticisms 
from unfriendly and prejudiced sources. As to the latter 
point, "it is untrue," says a trustworthy informant, "that 
any Korean capitalists came forward with a bona fide offer of 
a loan at a lower rate of interest than that procured by the 
Japanese Government for the retirement of the old nickel 
coinage. The only plan of the kind which was ever mooted 
had in view the borrowing of foreign capital, not Japanese. 
A great deal was said, after the fact, about the readiness of 
these capitalists to intervene; but Mr. Megata was never 
given an opportunity to avail himself of their alleged willing- 
ness to advance the funds until it was too late. Mr. Me- 
gata's first object was, of course, to obtain the money as 
cheaply as possible. It was not until he had looked the 
situation over very carefully, and had made enquiries con- 
cerning the possibility of making better arrangements with 
foreign capitalists that he finally concluded the arrangement 
with the Dai Ichi Ginko." 

Another example of the same species of criticism is shown 
in connection with the story that the Korean Emperor desired 
to advance to the merchants of Seoul 300,000 yen to relieve 
the distress over the increased stringency in the money market, 
which was, of course, one of the first results of the conversion 
of the nickel-coin currency. "For this offer," the authority 
just quoted says, "the underlying motive was undoubtedly 
political. There was distress among the merchants of Seoul, 
but there was no necessity for the Emperor's direct inter- 
vention. If, indeed, the distress had been as great as was 



322 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

represented at the time, the sum offered, 300,000 yen, was not 
sufficient to afford permanent relief. The offer of the money 
was merely another instance of Korean methods. The 
process of reasoning was simple: Financial distress existed, 
due to the action of the Japanese Financial Adviser; His 
Majesty generously came to the assistance of his embarrassed 
subjects; hence gratitude to His Majesty and humiliation 
for the discredited Japanese Adviser. Mr. Megata did 
no more than to treat the matter as its childish nature war- 
ranted. It should be added that, in addition to the genuine 
distress caused by the stringency of the money market, there 
was a patent attempt to heighten the resultant agitation for 
political effect. This was met by offers, due to Mr. Megata's 
initiative, to advance money on easy terms in deserving cases. 
The native capitalists made no move to relieve the situation 
at this supposedly critical juncture." 

The recent condition of the resources and finance of Korea 
can be discovered in the most trustworthy way possible under 
existing circumstances, only by a critical study of the detailed 
reports to which reference has already been made in this 
chapter. The following more important items are taken 
from the Report of March, 1907. In this report the total 
estimated revenue for 1907 is given at 13,189,336 yen, which 
is an increase of 5,704,592 yen over that of 1906. Of this 
total, however, 3,624,233 yen is extraordinary. The total 
estimated expenditure for the same year is 13,963,035 yen, 
which is in excess of that of the year of 1906, by the sum of 
5,995,647 yen. The increase in expenditure is partly to 
provide for increase in salaries a necessary measure if the 
amount of " squeezes" is to be reduced and a sufficient 
number of competent and honest officials secured; but more 
largely for the reform of the educational organization, for 
the founding and support of technical schools, for the exten- 
sion of engineering works, the building of roads, of law 



RESOURCES AND FINANCE 323 

courts, and other public buildings, the founding of hospitals; 
and for the extension of the police and judicial systems. 
As to individual items it is noticeable that the military 
estimates have been reduced from 2,426,087 yen, in 1905, 
when they were 26 per cent, of the total expenditure, to 
1,522,209 yen, or u per cent, of the total expenditure for the 
year 1907. This sum has now further been much reduced 
by the disbanding of the Korean army, with the exception 
of a body of palace guards, as a consequence of the new 
Convention of July, 1907. 

One-tenth of the entire estimated expenditure or, more 
precisely, 1,309,000 yen is attributed to the Imperial House- 
hold. But even this by no means represents the cost to the 
nation of the Emperor and his Court under the former occu- 
pant of the throne. For all manner of irregular, illicit, and 
scandalous ways of obtaining money for his privy purse were 
resorted to by the ruler, whose character and habits in the 
obtaining and use of money have already been sufficiently 
described. 1 The trials which have come upon the Financial 
Adviser of the Korean Government since his appointment, 
through the behavior of the so-called " Korean Executive," 
can scarcely be exaggerated. One of the questions pending 
when Mr. Megata first assumed office concerned the size of 
the allowance for the expenses of the Crown Princess' funeral. 
The Emperor's private funds were at a low ebb (they always 
are); the national treasury was impoverished (it always had 
been). Yet the Imperial Treasurer, an official of the old- 
time stamp, insisted that one million yen was absolutely 
indispensable for the proper carrying out of the burial 
ceremony (!). This way of plundering the treasury of the 
country, which was considered especially legitimate by the 
Korean Court and its parasites, Mr. Megata dealt with in 

1 See the incidents which are of a sort to be almost indefinitely mul- 
tiplied on page 285 f. 



3 2 4 



IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 



that spirit of " philosophical humor" which is characteristic 
of him. He patiently pointed out that the estimated prices 
of many of the items called for were greatly in excess of their 
market value. In this manner he finally reduced the wily 
claims of the Korean official to the modest sum of a half- 
million yen. Two full-dress rehersals, which differed from 
the actual ceremony only in the circumstance that the coffin 
was empty and no official invitations to attend were issued, 
preceded the final pagent. On each of these occasions the 
long procession marched pompously through the streets, 
which were crowded with wrangling lantern-bearers, chair 
coolies, and the innumerable other horde of a low-lived 
Korean populace, to the dissipation of all the solemnity of 
a death-ceremonial, but to the delectation of the spectators 
as well as the participants. 

The public debt of Korea in March, 1907, is here exhibited 
in tabular form : 

TABLE OF NATIONAL DEBT 



Name of Loan 


Date of Issue 


Amount 


Interest 


Term 
Outstanding 


Date of 
Redemption 




June 1905 




7 % 






Currency Adjustment 
For Increased Circulation . . 
New Enterprises 


1905 
Dec., 1905 
March, 1906 


3,000,000 
1,500,000 
5,000,000 


6 % 
6 % 
6i% 


6 " 
6 
5 " 


June, 1915 
Dec., 1912 
March, 1916 















This debt, while insignificant as compared with that of 
civilized nations generally, is by no means so when compared 
with the poverty of Korea. And it will doubtless be largely 
increased in the near future by the necessity of putting into 
operation many imperative reforms and improvements of the 
existing material condition of the country. The possibility, 
however, of a rapid development of the resources and increase 
of revenue is also great. To take a single item: while the 
amount estimated from Port Duties for the year ending 
December 31, 1906, was only 850,000 yen, the actual income 



RESOURCES AND FINANCE 325 

was 2,434,118 yen. Some reduction in the items allowed for 
expenditure is also possible for example, that of the Im- 
perial Household, and for the Military (a reduction already 
accomplished). Under a just administration, with a revision 
of the system of taxation, the resources and the revenue can 
probably be doubled in a few years, and at the same time 
the material welfare of the people improved. With the 
policy of the present Resident-General continued in force, 
the prospect is therefore by no means without dominant 
elements of hope for Korea's future. 



CHAPTER XIV 

EDUCATION AND THE PUBLIC JUSTICE 

UNTIL recently neither public education nor public justice, 
in the modern meaning of these terms, has had any existence 
in Korea. Even those who were regarded as preferred 
candidates for government positions in educational and 
judicial fields were not really fitted for the intelligent and 
faithful performance of their duties supposing (what, in 
most cases, was not true) that they really desired efficiency 
and true success. For the common people of Korea, indeed 
for all except the most highly privileged classes, there was no 
opportunity for learning and no conception or experience of 
the fair, legal safeguarding of human interests and human 
rights. The older educational methods, so far as method 
existed at all, were patterned after those of China; but they 
were never so thorough or excellent of their kind as were the 
Chinese. Civil service examinations were indeed required 
for official preferment. These examinations were exceed- 
ingly superficial, and were not guarded against fraud; so that 
the selection of successful candidates was too frequently 
made on quite other grounds than those of superior excellence 
in passing the examinations. To this latter fact the Korean 
stories of poor and worthy candidates who have been unjustly 
deprived of the offices to which they were entitled bear an 
ample and often dramatically pathetic witness. While, as 
to the almost total absence of even-handed justice, from the 
central government at the Court down to the most petty of 
the local magistrates, the entire history of Korea is one con- 
tinued pitiful story. 

326 



EDUCATION AND THE PUBLIC JUSTICE 327 

With regard to the condition of the public education as 
late as just previous to, and even after the attempted re- 
forms of 1894, we quote the following description from the 
Korean Review of November of 1904: 

According to Korean custom and tradition, any man who 
knows Chinese fairly well can become a teacher. There is no 
such thing as a science of teaching, and the general average of 
instruction is wretchedly poor. The teacher gets only his deserts, 
which are extremely small. The traditional Korean school- 
teacher, while receiving some small degree of social considera- 
tion because of his knowledge of the Chinese characters, is looked 
upon as more or less of a mendicant. Only the poorest will en- 
gage in this work, and they do it on a pittance which just keeps 
them above the starvation line. It has been ingrained in the 
Korean character to reckon the profession of pedagogy as a mere 
makeshift which is only better than actual beggary. If you ex- 
amine the pay-list even of the Government schools, you will find 
that the ordinary wage is about thirty Korean dollars. This 
means about fifteen yen a month, and is almost precisely the 
amount that an ordinary coolie receives. This wretchedly low 
estimate of the value of a teacher's services debauches the whole 
system. The men who hold these positions are doing so because 
nothing better has turned up, and they get their revenge for the in- 
adequacy of the salary by shirking their work as much as possible. 

It would seem from this account that the contemplated 
reforms of the educational system, which had been inaugu- 
rated ten years before, when the old-fashioned civil-service 
examinations were abolished, had* remained, as is customary 
with all reforms in Korea if not enforced from without, 
merely matters of so much paper. Another writer 1 about 
midway in this decade gives a somewhat better account of 
Korean educational affairs after the Chino- Japan war. 

1 Dr. Allen, then American Consul-General, in a report upon Educa- 
tional Institutions and Methods in Korea^ 1898. 



328 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

The "present favorable aspect of education" at that time 
this writer attributes to the influence of the war. It is to be 
noted, however, that the "favorable aspect" covers, for the 
most part, only the special schools established in Seoul and 
does not regard the unimproved and still deplorable state 
of the public education in the country at large. Stricter 
attention to the extent of this alleged improvement, even 
within the city of Seoul, shows how limited it really was. 
Besides well-deserved praise bestowed upon the few missionary 
schools, only the governmental so-called "Normal School," 
in which 30 scholars were enrolled, and which was presided 
over by Mr. Homer B. Hulbert, and a school for teaching 
English to the sons of nobles, numbering 35 pupils, are 
given as examples. Inasmuch as the latter school had the 
same teacher, and he was justly complaining that his obliga- 
tion to teach the young Yang-bans interfered with his legiti- 
mate work, the cause of the public education could not have 
made any considerable advances at this time. The same 
report speaks of a Japanese school maintained in Seoul by 
the Foreign Education Society of Japan, in the following 
significant way: "It was organized in April, 1898, as a 
token of the sincere sympathy for the lack of a sound educa- 
tional basis in Korea, with the view of giving a thorough 
elementary course of instruction to Korean youths, and ' thus 
aiming to form a true foundation of the undisputed inde- 
pendence of that country.' " 

In further proof of the undoubted fact that the reforms of 
1894 had accomplished little in Seoul itself, and almost noth- 
ing at all in Korea outside of the capital, we may appeal 
again to the testimony of the writer in the Korean Review: 
"We do not see," says this writer, "how the government can 
be made to realize the importance of this work. When no 
protest is made against the appropriation of a paltry $60,000 
a year for education as compared with $4,000,000 for the 



EDUCATION AND THE PUBLIC JUSTICE 329 

Korean army, there is little use in expecting a change in the 
near future. The government could do nothing better than 
reverse these figures; but the age of miracles is past." 

"Before suggesting a possible solution of the question," 
this writer goes on to say, "we should note with care what 
is at present being done t6 provide young men with an 
education. There are the seven or eight primary schools in 
Seoul with a possible attendance of forty boys each. This 
means a good deal less than 500 boys in this city of over 
200,000 people, including the immediate suburbs. At the 
least estimate there ought to be 6,000 boys in school between 
the ages of ten and sixteen. Practically nothing is being done. 
As for intermediate education there is a Middle School, with 
a corps of eight teachers and an average attendance of about 
thirty boys. The building, the apparatus, and the teaching 
staff would suffice for about four hundred pupils. There are 
several foreign language schools, with an attendance of any- 
where from twenty to eighty each, and they are fairly success- 
ful. . . . Then there are the several private schools, almost 
every one of which is in a languishing condition. A Korean 
will start a private school on the least provocation. It runs 
a few months and then closes, nobody being the wiser, 
though some be sadder. When we come to reckon up the 
number of young Koreans who are pursuing a course of 
instruction along modern lines, we find that they represent a 
fraction of less than one per cent, of the men who ought to 
attend, and might easily be doing so." Such was then the 
condition of the public education in Korea even down until 
after the beginning of the Russo-Japanese war, or in Novem- 
ber of 1904. 

The foregoing true account of educational matters in Korea 
is further confirmed and expanded by the Official Report 
more recently given out in the name of the Residency-General. 1 

1 See Administrative Reforms in Korea, p. 4 /. 



330 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

The report, however, notices the existence of the accepted 
means of education for the village children in the provinces. 
These means were employed, after a debased Confucian 
system, in so-called Syo-bang by a sort of village dominie, 
who gathered about him the children of the neighborhood 
and taught them the rudiments of reading and writing the 
vernacular. There were in 1894 some ten thousand of these 
schools scattered throughout the peninsula. In the barest 
rudiments of the native language the instruction they gave 
was deficient; of modern education in other matters, there 
was nothing. In Seoul there was also a high-school of 
Confucian learning (a Syong-Kyun-Koari), where the students 
were taught the three " Primary" and the four "Middle 
Classics," and were given some lessons in history, geography, 
composition and mathematics. 

The same Report further agrees with the Article in the Ko- 
rean Review in considering the reforms proclaimed in 1894 by 
the government as ineffective. The schools which sprung up 
under the " Primary School Ordinance," with the intention of 
introducing the Western system of education, were almost 
without exception of the old (Shobo) character. And, in- 
deed, how could it be otherwise, when there were no teach- 
ers who could give the rudiments of a modern education, 
and few pupils who desired such an education? As for 
the middle-grade education which the Seoul schools pro- 
fessed to give, there was little or nothing to bear out their 
pretensions. 

The Residency- General aims, therefore, "at nothing less 
than the establishment of an entirely new system of education 
for Korea." But the system does not propose to interfere 
with, much less wholly to close, the existing old-fashioned 
Confucian institutions. It will, the rather, gradually displace 
them by something better. The Government system as now 
planned contemplates supplying the nation with the necessary 



EDUCATION AND THE PUBLIC JUSTICE 331 

schools of the different grades, in accordance with the outline 
of reforms given below. 

1. The former "Primary Schools" have been renamed " Com- 
mon Schools." The Common School Ordinance and Regulations 
have been drawn up and put in practice ; the ten primary schools 
of various kinds in Seoul having been turned into Government 
Common Schools, and the thirteen Primary Schools in the prov- 
inces into Public Common Schools. The class work under the 
new regime was begun in September, 1905, in all these schools. 
It has been arranged, further, to establish Public Common Schools 
in twenty-seven principal cities and towns of the provinces in 
April this year. 

2. The former "Middle Schools" have been renamed "High 
Schools"; and the "High School" Ordinance and Regulations 
issued. The period of study in these schools has been fixed at 
four years, and graduates of the Common Schools are to be taken 
without the examination, which is, however, required in the case 
of other candidates for admission. The number of regular course 
students in each of these schools is fixed at 200, with the proviso 
that they may open a Hoshu-kwa class (or interim class for those 
who need to complete their qualification before taking up the 
regular course). 

3. Reforms and the expansion of the scope of work, judged 
necessary and advisable, have been effected for the Normal, and 
the Agricultural, Commercial and Industrial Schools, which all 
retain their old names, while the Medical School has been at- 
tached to the Tai-han-ui-won (or "Great Korean Hospital"). 

4. Out of the 500,000 yen provided for the extension of the 
educational system, a sum of 340,000 yen has been expended in 
newly constructing, renovating, or enlarging the Common School 
buildings. The remaining 160,000 yen has been put in part to 
the service of new buildings for the Normal, the Agricultural and 
Forestry, and the Commercial Schools; and in part to the fund 
for necessary construction work and equipment for the schools of 
the Middle Grade. 

5. Besides the schools described above, a special institution 



332 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

having the name of Syu-hak-won has been established for giving 
education to the children of the Imperial and aristocratic families. 
It has been placed under the superintendence of the Minister of 
the Household. The regular number of scholars received into 
this institution is fixed at twenty. The course of instruction given 
is not dissimilar to that in the common schools. 

Any account of educational reforms in Korea would be 
quite inadequate if it did not include mention of the new 
provisions for medical and surgical treatment and for the 
education of native physicians and surgeons. Incredible as 
it may seem, it is true that there was in the spring of 1907 
only one native in all Korea who had received a thorough 
modern medical education; and this one was a woman who 
had studied in the United States and was connected with the 
medical work of the Methodist Mission at Pyeng-yang. In 
connection with one of the three small hospitals hitherto 
existing in Seoul there has been for some seven years a 
Seoul Medical College, with only one Japanese instructor. 
The hospitals are now to be united in a single large institution, 
for which 280,000 yen, to be spent in construction, and 123,600 
yen, for maintenance, have already been provided. This 
hospital will also have charge of training for the medical 
profession and for hygienic and sanitary administration. 
The site has been secured and the construction of the buildings 
begun, with the expectation of having them completed during 
the year 1907. 

The educational work thus far actually accomplished in 
Korea has been chiefly done by the missionary schools. 
Among these schools those belonging to the Korean Mission 
of the Presbyterian Church in the United States are most 
numerous and effective. The Annual Report of this Mission 
for the year 1906, under the head of " Educational Work," 
furnishes information as to the following among other par- 
ticulars. The total enrolment of the "Academy" was 160, 



EDUCATION, AND THE PUBLIC JUSTICE 333 

of whom 104 remained in school till the close of the year. 
In the autumn of 1905, twelve of the students, "contrary to 
advice and orders, left the school and joined the throng at 
Seoul, who wanted to lay their lives on the altar of their 
country in the effort to retain their national independence. 
The twelve were suspended for the year. Order was finally 
restored, and the remaining pupils returned to their work 
with renewed zeal." The class which graduated in June, 
1906, consisted of four members. In the fall of 1906 a sum 
of money amounting to somewhat more than $2,000 was col- 
lected with a view to starting a so-called " college." The 
theological instruction which was carried on at Pyeng-yang 
during the months of April, May, and June, of the same 
year, became the germ of a developing " Theological Semi- 
nary" for the training of an educated native ministry. An 
advanced school for girls and women had an enrolment of 
53 for the year. The number of local primary schools was 
4 for boys and 3 for girls, with a total attendance of 494; 
to these should be added, of the " country schools," 62 for 
boys and 8 for girls, with a total attendance of 1,266. Such 
is the report of the " Pyeng-yang Station." In the "Seoul 
Station," for the same year (1906) the report shows a total 
of 105 boys, in 4 schools, under 5 teachers, and of 48 girls, 
in 4 schools, under 4 teachers (rated as "Primary Schools"), 
in the city of Seoul; and 27 schools with 303 boys and 35 
girls, belonging to the churches in this station, outside of 
Seoul. There was also in this district one "Intermediate 
and Boarding School," with 60 boys and 23 girls numbered 
among its pupils. While the building to accommodate the 
boys of this school was in process of erection, they were com- 
bined with those of a corresponding school belonging to the 
Methodist Mission; and the united work carried on in the 
building belonging to the latter Mission thus attained a 
total enrolment of 150 pupils. Without mentioning the 



334 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

educational work done in less important stations of this 
Mission, it is enough to say that in the year 1906 there were 
7 schools of a grade above the primary, giving instruction to 
255 boys and 125 girls, and 208 schools of the lower grade 
with an enrolment of 3,116 boys and 795 girls as the aggre- 
gate number of their pupils. Most of the schools of the 
primary grade, however, consist of "classes" somewhat ir- 
regularly taught, insufficiently supplied with teachers, and 
wholly without adequate permanent accommodations. 

Into the actual condition of educational work in Korea, 
so far as such work is dependent upon the attitude of the 
Koreans themselves, the following extract from the Report 
of the Union High School gives a significant glimpse: 1 

Union school work was opened up in the building known as 
Pai-chai, and was carried on there during the year. As is usually 
the case in opening a term in Korea, the first two weeks were a 
period of growth. The students who were with us last year came 
straggling along, while those who came for initial matriculation 
found their way to us from day to day, until about 130 names 
were on the roll. It will be a day of rejoicing when Korean stu- 
dents come to appreciate the opening day and are to be found in 
their places on that day, ready for work. As it is now, a day or 
two, a week or two, or even a longer period, matters little to them; 
they come to take up their work when it is wholly convenient to 
them. It is easy to see that this slip-shod way of doing things is 
a serious drawback in school work, and it is hoped that in some 
way it may be brought about that every day late at opening will 
be counted a day lost by the student himself. But this can be 
secured only when a higher value is placed upon time than it now 
has. Now that our boys are fairly well classified, it is hoped that 
the difficulty may in a measure be remedied by compelling those 
students to drop back one form whose general attendance grade, 
class-room work, and examinations do not come up to the pre- 
scribed standard. 

1 Official Minutes of the Korean Mission Conference, 1906, p. 41. 



EDUCATION AND THE PUBLIC JUSTICE 335 

The Mission of the Methodist Episcopal Church in Korea, 
in its Conference Report for the year 1906, gives the number of 
its so-called "High Schools" as 2, with 3 teachers and 93 
pupils, and of its "other schools" as 54, with an enrolment 
of 1,564 day scholars. A year later the statistics presented 
to the Conference stated: "The Mission maintains 106 
schools with 3,787 pupils under instruction." 

In connection with the hospitals under both these Mis- 
sions at Seoul and at Pyeng-yang, a beginning has been made 
in the preparation of medical text-books for native use, and 
in the training of natives for the medical profession. 

The showing made by the facts just stated is meagre 
enough, when we consider that it is the best that can honestly 
be made for a modern nation of about ten millions. There 
is reason to believe, however, that the statistics exaggerate, 
rather than minimize, the results already achieved along 
educational lines. There has, indeed, been a beginning, 
but only a beginning. There are generous plans adopted 
and set in operation ; but the effectual working of these plans 
on any considerable scale remains for the future to bring 
about. The interest of the Emperor and his Court in the 
educational reform of Korea was no more to be depended 
upon than was their interest in any other reform, or real and 
substantial good, accruing to the benefit of the Korean 
public. So far as these influences prevailed, the Korean 
system was in 1904, and would have remained, an affair of 
paper only. But the Korean Department of Education, 
under the Residency-General, has co-operated faithfully in 
efforts to give to the country an efficient system of public 
education. The former Minister of Education, now (1907) 
Prime Minister Yi, has been at once the strongest and the 
most sincere of the Korean officials under the Japanese 
Protectorate. The hope of Korea, and the realization of 
the hopes of the Marquis Ito for Korea, depend upon the 



336 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

initiation and execution of a wise Government policy of edu- 
cation more than upon any other one influence. Unaided by 
Japan, Korea would never bring this about. As said Mr. 
Hulbert, when in his better mind: 1 "What Korea wants is 
education; and until steps are taken in that line there is no 
use in hoping for a genuinely independent Korea. Now we 
believe that a large majority of the best informed Koreans 
realize that Japan and Japanese influence stand for educa- 
tion and enlightenment; and that while the paramount influ- 
ence of any one outside power is in some sense a humiliation, 
the paramount influence of Japan will furnish far less genuine 
cause for humiliation than has the paramount influence of 
Russia. Russia secured her predominance by pandering to 
the worst elements in Korean officialdom. Japan holds it 
by strength of arm, but she holds it in such a way as to give 
promise of something better. The word reform never passed 
the Russian's lips. It is the insistent cry of Japan. The 
welfare of the Korean people never showed its head above 
the Russian horizon, but it fills the whole vision of Japan ; not 
from altruistic motives mainly, but because the prosperity 
of Korea and that of Japan rise and fall with the same tide." 2 
In the future development and administration of educa- 

1 Korean Review, of February, 1904. 

2 It is significant to notice in this connection that previous to his 
several commissions from the Korean Emperor, this writer held a quite 
different view from that which he afterward advocated with regard 
to the underlying principle of all the recent relations between the 
two countries. In the same article he says: "The present chaotic 
state of the national finances and of popular discontent, show some- 
thing of what Russian influence has accomplished in Korea; and the 
people are coming to realize the fact. They are passionately attached 
to the theory of national 'independence.' We say theory advisedly. 
This word ' independence ' is a sort of fetich 'to which they bow, but 
they think that independence means liberation from outside control 
alone, forgetting that genuine independence means likewise a liberation 
from evil influences within, and that liberty, so far from being carte 
blanche to do as one pleases, is in truth the apotheosis of law," 



EDUCATION AND THE PUBLIC JUSTICE 337 

tional affairs in Korea two principles are especially important 
to be kept in mind. The first is the necessity for co-operation 
on the part of all the educative forces under some system or 
general plan. On the one hand, the private and missionary 
schools could never suffice for the educational reform of the 
nation; neither could they supply adequately the needed 
number or kind of schools for its proper educational develop- 
ment. In general, missionary schools belong to the planting 
and earlier stages of religious propagandism among peoples 
who have either no system of public education or a system 
which is hostile to religious influences. Missionary schools 
are of necessity foreign schools; when they have effectually 
performed their initial work, they should somehow become a 
part of the native equipment for educating the people. As 
we have already said, they have until recently been almost 
the only though exceedingly meagre and faulty means for 
giving the rudiments of a modern education to a small fraction 
of Korean youth. They never could be developed, if they 
remain simply missionary schools, so as to cope with the 
entire educational problem in this land of public ignorance 
and of intellectual and moral degradation. Those who are 
in charge of them, therefore, should be among the most 
forward to welcome cordially, and effectively to assist, the 
organization and advance of a national system of public 
education in Korea. Otherwise their highest service can 
never be rendered to the country; their most important and 
ultimate purpose of contributing toward the evolving of an 
intelligent Christian nation can never be realized. 

On the other hand, any plans for the establishing and 
developing of a system of education in Korea at the present 
time should be wise and generous in the matter of taking into 
its confidence, and availing itself of, the assistance of the 
mission schools. So miserably poor is Korea in all resources 
of this character, that the barest principles of economics en- 



338 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

force the necessity of her availing herself of all possible helps. 
Moreover, the converts to Christianity although a very con- 
siderable proportion of them are ignorant of the truths, and 
negligent of the morals, of the foreign religion they suppose 
themselves to have espoused are multiplying rapidly, and 
are destined to become of more and more political and social 
significance in the near future. Some sort of regulated co- 
operation and conformity to a general plan should, therefore, 
as speedily as possible be secured between the Government 
and the private Christian schools. The Japanese and 
Korean Governments and the Missionary Boards should 
speedily agree upon some common plan for the requirements 
of the primary and secondary grades of instruction, and thus 
actively assist each other in the attainment of their com- 
mon end. That this cannot be done without sacrificing the 
special interests deemed most important to each, it would be 
in contempt of the good sense and sincerity of both to 
affirm. 

The second most important principle to set in control of the 
educational system of Korea is this. At first, and for a long 
time to come, it should be pretty strictly limited to fitting the 
Koreans themselves for a serviceable life, in Korea, and under 
the conditions, physical, social, and economic and political, 
of Korea. To educate after the fashion followed too much 
by Great Britain in India thousands of Korean babus, who 
thus become unfitted for the pressing needs of their country 
at this present day, and inclined to idleness rather than any 
hard and disagreeable but useful work, would be a mistake 
which neither the Government nor the Missions can afford 
to make. It is a fact, however, that, up to the present time, 
too large a proportion of the Korean youth, whether educated 
abroad or in the missionary schools at home, have lapsed into 
this worthless class. When called upon to work manfully, 
faithfully, persistently, doing with his might what his hand 



EDUCATION AND THE PUBLIC JUSTICE 339 

finds to do the Korean, like the Indian babu, is likely to 
show that his modern education has the more unfitted, rather 
than the better fitted, him for the effectual service of his 
country. If this should be the result of modern education, 
it would be scarcely more to be commended, under existing 
conditions in Korea, than was the education of the old-time 
Confucian schools. 

The extension of the educational system of Korea ought, 
therefore, for some time to come to be almost exclusively 
limited to these two lines namely, to providing the barest 
elements of a modern education for all the children of Korea, 
and to the equipping and developing of the means for fitting 
the youths of both sexes for the most needed forms of public 
service. The time to spend large sums of money on the 
higher branches of a liberal culture has not come as yet for 
Korea. The present urgent need of the country is for men 
who will tend her fields and forests, develop her mines and 
manual arts and manufactures with intelligence; run her 
railroad trains with safety; who will occupy her magistracies 
with some knowledge of ethics and of law; and care for her 
sick and injured with skill in medicine and surgery. Colleges 
and universities for rearing scholars, authors, philosophers, or 
gentlemen of learned leisure with Government sinecures, can 
bide their time. 

The deplorable condition of the Public Justice in Korea, 
from the beginnings of the history of the United Kingdom 
down to the present time, has been both assumed and illus- 
trated in the preceding pages. It is difficult to give any 
adequate picture of this condition in few words. The re- 
straints of a constitution or a recognized legal code have had 
no existence. Court and local magistrates have been alike, 
with rare exceptions, either inefficient or wholly corrupt. 
The administrative and judicial functions have not been dis- 
tinguished, and both have been under the control of "influ- 



340 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

ence," and devoted to "squeezes" and bribes. Of this illegal 
and unjust condition the police and the army were, under 
the old system, the instruments. And whenever during these 
sad centuries of injustice an occasional monarch, or a few 
of the inferior officials, attempted reform, if in the one case 
the attempt was partially successful, the old condition soon 
returned; while the inferior official who wished to be more 
just than his colleagues, by this very attempt risked his po- 
sition or even his head. 

Among the reforms contemporaneous with the Chino- 
Japan war (1894), the remedy for the existing maladminis- 
tration of justice in Korea naturally had a prominent place. 
Some of the forms of injustice then in common use such as 
the bribing of judges and the punishment of accused persons 
without even the semblance of a trial had no justification 
under Korean law, so far as law existed at that time. Other 
equally deplorable forms of injustice were, however, strictly 
legal; as, for example, the infliction of penalties on the in- 
nocent relatives of a condemned criminal, and the imprison- 
ment of the household of an official charged with extortion. 
In particular, the use of torture barbarous in kind and ex- 
treme in cruelty was in "full accord" with the legal system 
of the Ming dynasty in China, which formed the basis of the 
Korean code. Of the older forms of torture some, such as 
crushing the knee-caps, slitting the nostrils, applying pincers 
or hot irons, had already been in 1894 abolished by the Ming 
dynasty; but a great number of equally painful forms of 
torture were still legally in practice at that time. Among 
such were seating the victim on hot coals, driving splinters 
under the toe-nails, applying fire to the feet and hands, 
pounding the shins, and squeezing the ankles. On the 
eleventh of January, 1895, however, the Minister of Justice 
obtained the king's assent to the abolition of all the more 
severe forms of torture except in capital cases. To enforce 



EDUCATION AND THE PUBLIC JUSTICE 341 

confession of guilt by beating with a stick was still to be 
allowed. 1 

The reforms promised and inaugurated in 1895, with re- 
spect to the improvement of the administration of justice, 
like all the other reforms of that time, scarcely went beyond 
the so-called " paper stage." Some forms of torture were, 
indeed, no longer customarily practised; but on the whole 
the barbarous treatment of accused and convicted criminals 
was not greatly improved. In civil cases the practice of the 
Court and of the magistrates was never worse than during 
the period preceding the Russo-Japanese war. It was, as 
has already been shown (p. 233 /.), "an orgy of indepen- 
dence." 

In the opinion of Marquis Ito, when he became Resident- 
General, the primary and most important thing in the in- 
terests of the public justice was the discovery, systematizing, 
and promulgation of the "law of the land." But how should 
this difficult task be accomplished? Or as involving sub- 
ordinate questions of great importance upon what founda- 
tion of principles should the task be undertaken? In the 
reforms of 1894-95 the plans of the Korean and Japanese 

1 Among the many falsehoods told by the Koreans and their "Foreign 
Friends," in their endeavors to excite pity for themselves, and, pos- 
sibly, interference with the Japanese Administration in Korea, none is 
more ridiculous than that the latter were reviving the use of torture. 
It should be borne in mind that, previous to the Convention of July, 
1907, which followed upon the promulgation of this and other more 
important false charges by the commissioners to The Hague Con- 
ference, the Japanese Residency-General's power did not extend to the 
interference with the execution of the Korean law upon Korean crim- 
inals. Preliminary examination by beating with a stick was then 
legal; according to credible current report it was practiced upon the 
vice-Minister of Education, when, during my visit to Korea, he was 
accused of having contributed money toward effecting the assassination 
of the Ministry (see p. 51). All this is quite different from the retort 
which might be made to critics from the United States to remember 
the practice of "water-cure" in the Philippines, etc. 



342 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

enthusiasts involved the sudden making of all things new. 
At once, a tolerably complete modern code was to be devised 
and forced upon the people of Korea. In accordance with 
these plans an abundance of legislation was enacted; but 
most of it was, of necessity, ineffective, since it was neither 
adapted to the present condition of Korean civilization nor 
ever honestly applied. At the present time in Japan and in 
view of the large increase of power given to the Resident- 
General by the Convention of 1907, there is a difference of 
opinion as to the proper procedure in the reform of the public 
justice in Korea. A certain party would repeat the mistakes 
of more than a decade ago. They would have the Japanese 
Protectorate secure the ''entire adoption of the new Japanese 
Criminal Code, and in civil suits provide Korea with 'an 
entirely new set of laws' patterned after those of modern 
civilized nations." This would be a comparatively easy 
matter, so far as the preparation of a code is concerned. 
But it would undoubtedly be relatively defective so far as the 
actual reform of justice in Korea is concerned. "The 
Resident- General," says Mr. Stevens, "is manifestly deter- 
mined to avoid this mistake, and to provide, in the first place, 
some adequate means for the enforcement of the law." 
Meantime, the work of codification is proceeding cautiously. 
The first step in this work was directed toward the "law 
affecting real estate." 

"This law" namely, the law affecting real estate "has 
been taken up before all others, because, despite the fact that 
in the present economic condition of the country immovables 
form the most important object of ownership, Korea as yet 
possesses no law of any real efficiency to protect rights 
relating to real property. For instance, in selling and buying 
a piece of land or in mortgaging it, the parties concerned 
have nothing to go by but to follow the old custom of hand- 
ing over and receiving the bunki, or title deeds, which are 



EDUCATION AND^THE PUBLIC JUSTICE 343 

generally in the form of a file of documents vouchsafing the 
transaction. It so happens that the country is now flooded 
with forged bunkis, and there is really no security for prop- 
erty. For this reason, in July last (1906) the Resident- 
General caused the Korean Government to institute a Real 
Property Law Investigation Commission, and urged the in- 
vestigation of established customs and usages pertaining to 
immovables, with a view to drafting with the utmost de- 
spatch a law of real property of a simple and concise char- 
acter. The Commission made rapid progress in its work, 
and in consequence of this the Land and Buildings Certifica- 
tion Regulations (Imperial Ordinance) and the Detailed 
Rules of operation thereof (Justice Department Ordinance) 
were promulgated respectively on the 3ist of October and 
the yth of November following. According to the Regula- 
tions, in the case of transfer of land lots and buildings by 
sale, exchange, or gift, and in that of mortgaging them, the 
contracts are certified to by a Kun magistrate or Pu pre- 
fect; and a contract thus certified constitutes a full legal 
document, by virtue of which the transfer .may be validly 
carried out without decisions of any law court. When, how- 
ever, one of the parties to the contract happens to be an 
alien, not a Korean subject, the document needs to be addi- 
tionally examined and certified to by a Resident, otherwise 
the document is lacking in legal efficacy. When neither of 
the parties are Korean subjects, certification by a Resident 
alone is sufficient. Simple as the law is, its effect is far- 
reaching. To give an instance, originally treaties withJJCorea 
took cognizance of .a foreigner's, right to possess land only 
within the settlements and one ri zone around them, and 
hitherto all foreigners have experienced considerable diffi- 
culty in securing landed property in the interior of the 
country; but now, the above Regulations recognize the right 
of foreigners to possess land in the interior, and the result of 



344 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

their promulgation is the practical opening of the whole 
empire to foreigners. 

" Following this line of action, the Real Property Investiga- 
tion Commission is steadily working on laws of various de- 
scriptions, and it is expected that before long that body 
will be able to recommend some plan to place the land sys- 
tem of Korea on a solid and fair basis. As soon as the Real 
Property Law is drawn up and promulgated in a perfected 
form, the codification of other laws will be taken in 
hand." l 

The necessity for providing means effectively to enforce the 
existing and the newly to be enacted laws is obvious to any 
one who is acquainted with the methods of Korean justice 
down to the present time. This necessity becomes the more 
imperative on account of the condition of dissatisfaction and 
unrest which followed the Russo-Japanese war and the 
establishment of the Japanese Protectorate over Korea. It 
was further emphasized and brought to an acute form at the 
time when the abdication of the Emperor and the disband- 
ment of the Korean army, on the one hand, exaggerated the 
alleged reasons for revolt, and, on the other hand, let loose 
the forces most ready and appropriate to make revolt effect- 
ive. The experience in connection with the repeated at- 
tempts made to assassinate the Korean Ministry showed 
plainly enough that Korean police and military could not be 
depended upon to protect the rights or the lives of their own 
countrymen. Subsequent events showed that these same 
" minions of the law" were most dangerous to the property 
and lives of foreigners. Hence the imperative need of a 

1 Quoted, as are the following paragraphs bearing quotation marks, 
from the pamphlet prepared under the supervision of the Resident- 
General, and published in Seoul, January, 1907, on Administrative 
Reforms in Korea. [These quotations are made exactly, and without 
attempt to change the language in accordance with our use of legal 
terms.] 



EDUCATION AND THE PUBLIC JUSTICE 345 

reorganization of the police. On this matter of reform, the 
Report of the Resident- General discourses as follows: 

In olden times Korea had practically no police system. Under 
the central Government there was indeed the "Burglar Capture 
Office," while the provincial Governors were privileged to exer- 
cise police powers for the maintenance of peace and order. But 
the evil practice of selling offices being prevalent, the officials 
made it their business to extort unjust exactions, and the people 
enjoyed no security of life and property. In the year 503 of the 
Korean national era (1894) the "Burglar Capture Office" was 
closed and replaced by a " Kyong-mu-chyong" (Police Office), 
the latter being entrusted with the work of administering and 
superintending the police and prison affairs within the city of 
Seoul. The capital was then divided into five wards with a 
police station in each. Further, the Korean Government en- 
gaged advisers from among police inspectors of our Metropolitan 
Police Board, and put in force various laws and ordinances, de- 
fining and regulating the duties of the police force, besides adopt- 
ing fixed uniforms for men and officers, all in imitation of the 
Japanese system. At the same time the " Kyong-mu-koan " was 
created in the provincial Governor's Offices, for the exclusive 
management of local police affairs. Since then numerous changes 
have followed, and the Japanese police advisers have been dis- 
missed. In 1895 the Kyong-mu-chyong was abolished, and a 
new Department of Police was established. Then the police ad- 
ministration of the whole country was centralized in the hands of 
the Minister of Police. This innovation was, however, but short 
lived, and the Kyong-mu-chyong came to be resuscitated, the whole 
police system being now placed in the control of the Minister of 
Home Affairs. At that time, in virtue of her treaty with Korea, 
Japan not only took her own means of protecting her subjects 
residing in that country, but despatched police officials who were 
required in carrying out her rights connected with her Consular 
Courts. Subsequent to the Japan-China war, the number of 
Japanese resident in Korea steadily increased, and as years went 
by a similar change took place with regard to the number of our 



346 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

police attached to the Consulates, so that the latter had finally to 
have a regular police station within each Consular compound. 
Thus it happened that by the time of the Russo-Japanese war, 
Korea had come to have two police systems in force in the land. 
When the war broke out Korea engaged Japanese advisers for 
her police administration, and everything connected therewith, 
large or small, underwent changes in accordance with their views. 
At that juncture there was necessity, for military reasons, of in- 
troducing into Korea Japanese military police or gendarmerie, so 
that the country has since come to have simultaneously within her 
bounds three police organizations namely, the native police, the 
Japanese Consulate police, and the gendarmerie. 

On the establishment of the Residency- General, after the ter- 
mination of the war, all three systems were brought under the 
unified control of the Resident- General, in such a manner as to 
promote the national tranquillity of Korea, each supplementing 
the work of the other. Under the new arrangement all ordinary 
police work is placed in the hands either of the Japanese or of the 
Korean police, to suit the needs of the localities concerned; while 
the gendarmes are to look after the higher class of police affairs 
or those relating to acts that tend to endanger the safety of the 
Korean Imperial House, or to defy the authority of the Korean 
Government, or to disturb the friendly relations between Japan 
and Korea. At one time the gendarmerie was divided into twelve 
sub-companies, and fifty-five detail stations were established for 
them. Under the new regime 184 men have been honorably dis- 
charged, having been retained in the service beyond their regular 
term, or belonging to the reserve. At the same time the number 
of detail stations was reduced to thirty-two. The need of aug- 
menting the strength of the Japanese and" native police being in- 
creasingly felt, measures are being steadily taken in this direction 
within the limits which the circumstances allow. 

The laws of the land may be enlightened in their construc- 
tion, and the police thoroughly well organized and efficient; 
but if the courts of justice are not intelligent and honest, 
the public justice is not secure. In Korea, as in China, from 



EDUCATION AND THE PUBLIC JUSTICE 347 

which country she derived her administrative and judicial 
system, two principal evil influences have prevented any 
effectual reform in the judiciary. These are the failure to 
separate the executive and judiciary branches of government, 
and the fact that officials generally have not been dependent 
upon sufficient salaries for their reward, but, chiefly, upon the 
amounts which could be squeezed out of the offices. 

"The way in which justice has been administrated in 
Korea," says the Report, "is too revolting to all sense of 
decency to be told in detail. Her political development has 
never yet attained that stage when the executive and judiciary 
branches of government separate and become independent 
of each other. The privilege of meting out justice has always 
been in the hands of executive officials, and abuses have 
grown up in consequence of this. Justice, which should 
always be fair and upright, has generally allowed itself to be 
influenced by the amount of bribe offered, and right or wrong 
often changed places according to the .power and influence 
of the parties concerned. The conviction of innocent people, 
the confiscation of their property, and the liberation of the 
guilty, all under a travesty of trials, have been common 
occurrences; very frequently, too, contributions in money or 
in kind have been extorted under threats of litigation. Korea, 
indeed, possesses a law court organization by virtue of a law 
promulgated in 1895, and according to it the courts are of the 
following descriptions: i. Special Court of Law (tries 
crimes committed by members of the Imperial family). 
2. Court of Cassation. 3. Circuit Courts. 4. (Seoul) The 
Trade Port Courts (courts of first resort). 5. District 
Courts (courts of first resort), and their branches (when 
needed)." 

"The truth is, however, that this organization exists 
merely on paper, the only courts in actual existence being the 
Court of Cassation and the Seoul Court. In the provinces, 



348 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

the governors, commissioners and superintendents are, as 
of old, also judges and hear and judge both civil and criminal 
cases. The Kun magistrates, too, retain their judiciary 
powers, which are, however, limited in extent. Even at the 
independent courts, such as the Court of Cassation and the 
Seoul Court, judges and prosecutors are men totally deficient 
in legal knowledge and training, and their judgments often 
,end in the miscarriage of justice. It is not surprising that 
justice is generally made the object of ridicule and contempt 
in Korea both by the natives and by foreigners. Treaties 
give foreigners from the West the right to bring an action 
against the natives in the Korean Courts in cases of a certain 
description; but none of them has ever made use of such a 
right. When any legal dispute arises, these foreigners always 
make an international question of it and bring it before the 
Residency- General. Leave the situation as it at present is, 
and the day will never come when Korea may be freed from 
the system of extra-territoriality. It being evident that the 
chief cause responsible for this regrettable state of things lies 
in the judiciary in force and the incompetency of judges, the 
Resident- General has decided first to effect reform on these 
two points, with others to follow gradually. The reforms 
he has already put in practice for this purpose may be 
outlined as follows" [Here given only in summary form]: 

The creation of the office of Chief Councillor in the Depart- 
ment of Justice (the incumbent to be a Japanese); increase 
in the number of judges, procurators, and clerks; the con- 
stituting of the Prefects of the eleven Prefectures to act as 
Judges; provision for proper offices and for the travelling 
and other expenses of the Judges and the Law Courts; the 
introduction of rules of the civil service order, so that care 
may be exercised in the appointment of judiciary officials, etc. 

It has already been made sufficiently clear, however, that 
the one instrument of the public justice which conies closest 



EDUCATION AND THE PUBLIC JUSTICE 349 

to the common people of Korea, and which determines more 
than any other the spirit of satisfaction with their condition 
or of unrest and revolt, is the local magistracy. On the 
''Reform of Local Administration" the Report remarks as 
follows : 

One thing that has defied satisfactory solution ever since the 
beginning of the present Yi dynasty is the problem of the political 
division of Korea. Soon after the Japan- China war, Pak Yong- 
hyo, who was then Minister of Home Affairs, tried a radical 
change by turning the country into 23 prefectures. It was an 
innovation indeed, but short-lived, for not long after the country 
returned practically to its former division of 13 provinces, one 
crown district, three prefectures and 341 districts (excepting Han- 
Yang pu), with a Governor for each province, a Crown Commis- 
sioner for the crown district, a Magistrate for each district, a 
Prefect for each prefecture, and a Superintendent for each open 
port. Nor has this division seen much change since then. It is 
true that the question of local administration was one of the 
many that confronted the Residency- General when it set out on 
its work of politically regenerating Korea. A special Commission 
was instituted, and under the direction of the Resident- General 
its members carried investigations deep into the root of the evils 
and abuses to be removed. As the result all changes, sudden 
and radical, from fear of unnecessarily provoking popular excite- 
ment, were carefully avoided. Having in view, however, the new 
condition of things, the Commission decided on a plan of pro- 
vincial reforms, which took the form of an Imperial Ordinance 
proclaiming a "New Official Organization" and "Detailed Rules" 
for its operation. These were issued on the 28th of September 
last and put in force on the ist of October. 

The more detailed features of the reforms proposed are 
uninteresting and difficult to understand for one not making 
a special study of Korean local administration from the 
expert's point of view. In general, the reforms are intended 
to separate the appointment and control of the local magis- 



350 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

tracy from Court and other corrupt official influences; to put 
a stop to the evil practice "of selling offices by holding 
examinations for official candidates"; to reduce the tempta- 
tion to increase the squeezes, by increasing the legitimate 
salary and by providing properly for office, travelling, and 
other expenses; and to adopt and install "a new official 
organization for the provincial governors and their subordi- 
nates, classifying the nature of the business to be managed 
by them and denning their powers of issuing administrative 
orders, of levying local taxes and of conducting other affairs." 
These reforms require a considerable increase in the number 
of officials in both the Do (or Province) and Pu (or Prefecture) ; 
but they leave the Runs (or smaller districts) substantially 
unchanged in this regard. 

Besides the above changes, the Residency- General has 
already established a Residency or a Branch Residency in 
each of the provincial capitals. Further, the Local Adminis- 
tration Investigation Commission is now making enquiries 
into village constitutions, village assembly regulations, and 
other village association systems, handed down from olden 
times. From the data thus obtained, a plan will be drawn 
up for the ultimate introduction of the system of local auton- 
omy. As to the reorganization of the Law Court system, 
the independence of the Department of Justice, the separation 
of tax collection from routine executive business as the 
result of the establishment of a new Taxation Bureau with 
a chief of its own, etc., these form, no doubt, a part of local 
administration reform. 

Only the result can tell how far, and how soon, these 
plans for the reform of the public justice in Korea can so 
change its present deplorable condition in this regard as to 
satisfy the reasonable wishes of the Marquis Ito, and the 
Japanese Government, so far as it is supporting him in his 
peaceful and benevolent plans. The events which have oc- 



EDUCATION AND THE PUBLIC JUSTICE 351 

curred since this Report on Administrative Reforms was 
composed, have, on the one side, given to the Resident- 
General and his helpers a freer hand in a more open field, 
but on the other they have augmented the responsibilities 
and in some respects increased the difficulties of their task. 



CHAPTER XV 

FOREIGNERS AND FOREIGN RELATIONS 

BY the Protocols of February and August, 1904, and still 
more perfectly by the Convention of November, 1905, Japan 
became the sole official medium for communication between 
Korea and all other foreign Powers. Indeed, as the history 
of the relations between the two countries already narrated 
in summary form abundantly shows, thus much of control 
over Korean affairs had been demonstrated to be necessary 
for the welfare of both. But apart from considerations 
which are fitted to influence the judgment of either Japanese 
or Koreans, the question arises: How is the Protectorate of 
Japan likely to affect other foreigners in their relations to 
Korea? At present the foreign interests concerned in the 
solution of the general problem are chiefly of two orders: 
they are the interests of trade and commerce, and the mis- 
sionary interests. The larger diplomatic controversies, 
except so far as these may possibly arise in adjusting these 
two classes of interests, have now, it would seem, been satis- 
factorily arranged for some time to come. The recent 
treaties concluded between Japan on the one side, and 
Great Britain, France, and Russia on the other, all ex- 
pressly guarantee respect for Japan's control over the penin- 
sula. In addition to the arrangement for a sort of reciprocal 
"hands-off" from each other's possessions and " paramount 
interests" in the Far East, into .which France and Russia 
have entered, Great Britain has pledged her support in de- 
fence of the Protectorate. All these nations have, more- 

352 



FOREIGNERS AND FOREIGN RELATIONS 353 

over, solemnly committed themselves to the maintenance of 
the integrity of the Empire of China and to the policy of the 
so-called "open door." How unlikely it is, then, that the 
Japanese Government should proceed at once to violate 
treaty obligations which it has itself been at such pains and 
expense of men and money to secure, and the maintenance 
of which, to the satisfaction of its foreign allies, so intimately 
concerns its own future welfare. 

These same Conventions which confer certain rights upon 
the Japanese Government in Korea just as plainly put this 
Government under certain solemn obligations. The foreign 
Powers have, strictly speaking, no diplomatic corps at Seoul. 
Their Ambassadors and Ministers at Tokyo are their repre- 
sentatives for Korea as well as for Japan. All foreign 
Powers are represented by officials residing in the capital 
city of Korea who have consular functions only. Since, 
however, such functions must, in general, be exercised on the 
spot, and since other business can often be transacted only 
there, with any tolerable degree of convenience, the Consuls 
at Seoul are admitted to correspond with the Residency- 
General and with the various subordinate Residencies. 
Naming them in the order of their seniority, Belgium, China, 
Great Britain, Russia, France, and the United States are 
now (in 1907) each represented by a Consul- General, and 
Italy by a Consul. "Where foreign rights of any kind," says 
Mr. Stevens who in saying this speaks both as Adviser to 
the Korean Council of State and also as Counsellor to the 
Resident- General "are threatened or molested, it is the 
duty of the Japanese Government to furnish safeguards or 
to provide a remedy. The Japanese Government has the 
right to employ for that purpose all the machinery which the 
laws of Korea place in its hands; and it would seem logically 
to follow, also, that where such means prove inadequate, it is 
the right, as well as the duty, of the Japanese Government to 



354 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

insist that the deficiency shall be supplied by appropriate 
legislation or by such other method as may be reasonable 
and just under the circumstances." 

It does not follow from this, however, that either the rights 
of the Japanese Government allow, or their obligations 
compel, it to go to any length demanded by foreign business 
men, or concessionaires, or even by foreign missionaries, in 
promoting their real or fancied interests, or in redressing 
their fancied as well as their real wrongs. There are plainly 
limits to be observed in meeting demands and requests of 
this character. It may be the duty of the Japanese Govern- 
ment, for example, to secure and defend all the mining and 
other concessions made to foreigners which can prove them- 
selves to have been honestly obtained and administered in 
substantial accord with the initial contract. Inasmuch as 
few concessions of any sort among those obtained from the 
last Emperor can stand the test of honesty, or even of 
tolerable freedom from corruption, it will doubtless be well 
for the Japanese Government not to be over-scrupulous or 
too curiously enquiring in many cases. But it certainly is 
not its duty to allow the Imperial treasury to be plundered 
ad libitum by contracts made, and concessions obtained, 
through combinations of corrupt Korean officials with greedy 
and unscrupulous foreigners. Again: it may be the duty 
of the Japanese Government to protect a certain "freedom 
of the press," in the case of publications owned and managed 
by foreigners, even if printed in the vernacular and distributed 
widely among the more ignorant and excitable of the native 
population. It is certainly greatly to the credit of the Japanese 
officials to have borne so quietly the slanderous and abusive 
attacks upon their government of one such publication in 
Seoul. But surely there may be a limit here also. Un- 
doubtedly that limit was reached, when the vernacular 
edition of this publication excited the natives to sedition, 



FOREIGNERS AND FOREIGN RELATIONS 355 

revolt, and assassination, especially at so critical a juncture 
in the national affairs as occurred during the spring and 
summer of 1907. Possibly, there is also a limit beyond 
which misrepresentation and falsehood directed against 
individuals not connected with the government ought not 
to be allowed to pass. 1 

It must also be remembered that the success of the Resi- 
dency-General in the economic, educational, and judicial 
reform of Korea depends largely upon husbanding and 
developing the resources of Korea. In all this, Mr. Megata, 
the Financial Adviser, has been the right-hand man of 
Marquis Ito, the Resident-General. If these resources are 
squandered, or "conceded" in such a way as to deprive the 
Korean Government and the Korean people of the natural 
wealth of their own land, then the plans for every kind of 
reform will be crippled, if not wholly thwarted. To en- 
courage legitimate business with all nations is for the ad- 
vantage of both the Japanese and the Korean Governments; 
such a policy is directly in the line of Marquis Ito's intentions 

1 The following incident illustrates the habitual behavior of the Korean 
Daily News, edited by Mr. Bethell, in both an English and a native 
edition. Dr. Jones, one of the most faithful and useful of the Mis- 
sionary body in Korea, had previously incurred the bitter enmity of 
this paper by publicly announcing (see p. 61 f.) the intention to assist 
the Resident-General in his plans, so far as his own work as a mis- 
sionary permitted, for the up-raising of Korea. At the time when the 
Korean troops, in a wholly unprovoked way, fired upon the crowd in 
the streets of Seoul, Dr. Jones published in the Seoul Press an account 
of what he himself saw. The account was not accompanied by any 
harsh criticism of the conduct of the troops. But "shortly afterwards 
a Korean attached to the vernacular paper visited him and, attacking 
him fiercely, denounced him as an enemy of Korea. This was followed 
by a savage attack in the Korean edition of the News, giving an en- 
tirely false account of what Dr. Jones had done and said. It was in 
fact an invitation to murder." Dr. Jones at once appealed to the 
American Consul-General and he to the British. The editor was 
forced to retract and apologize, but this by no means compensated for 
the damage his article had done. 



356 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

for the reform and unlifting of the economic condition of the 
peninsula. No one person would suffer so severely in mind 
and in reputation as would the Resident- General himself 
if this policy failed through any fault of his own or of his 
country's administration in Korea. But, on the other hand, 
to check the evil consequences of illegitimate schemes of pro- 
motion already accomplished, and to prevent the initiation 
of such schemes in the future, is an equally necessary part 
of this policy. 

On the whole subject of the attitude of the Japanese Gov- 
ernment toward foreign business interests in Korea the follow- 
ing lengthy quotations may be considered as authoritative: 

The foreign trade of Korea has been steadily increasing, es- 
pecially during the past six years. Making due allowance for the 
increase of imports brought about by the war, the proportion of 
normal increase gives every sign of healthy growth. Japan's 
trade is much the largest. Korean exports go almost exclusively 
to Japan, except ginseng, which is sent to China. Of the im- 
ports from Japan a large proportion are foreign, as Japan is put 
down in the Customs Returns as the country from which the 
importation was made, the country of origin not being given. 
As Japan is the place of transhipment for much of the trade, and 
as much of it passes through Japanese hands, it would be difficult 
to differentiate. There are certain important staples, however, 
concerning which there can be no ambiguity American kerosene, 
for example, which practically monopolizes the market. Rails 
and railway equipment also come from foreign countries, the cars 
and engines from the United States. As Korea increases in 
wealth and her purchasing capacity grows correspondingly, there 
will be a field for other machinery, modern farming implements 
among the rest, no doubt. 

American and European enterprise has not been so conspicuous 
in the field of ordinary commercial enterprise as in other direc- 
tions. Concessions of one kind and another have attracted more 
attention than trade and commerce. The most conspicuous and 



FOREIGNERS AND FOREIGN RELATIONS 357 

successful undertaking of this kind is the Oriental Consolidated 
Mining Company at Unsan in Northern Korea, originally Amer- 
ican; now it is generally understood to be largely English in 
ownership. This was the first mining concession ever granted to 
foreigners in Korea. His Majesty the Emperor was originally a 
half owner in the company, but sold out his interest for 300,000 
yen and a payment of 25,000 yen per annum. The company's 
concession covers a large area, and the capital is $5,000,000, 
American money. At the outset the enterprise did not look very 
promising, but by skilful management it grew until it reached its 
present important proportions. 

It would probably be idle to attempt an analysis of the advan- 
tages and disadvantages to Korea of enterprises of this kind. 
Certainly, if there are any advantages, the Unsan concession should 
be a favorable example. That it has been of great advantage to 
Korea is at least an open question. On the one side, in its favor, 
may be set the large amounts annually expended by the company 
in wages, etc. This is undoubtedly a good thing while it lasts; 
but gold mines are exhausted sooner or later, and the benefits 
they confer are only temporary. The abandoned mining sites in 
America, no matter how prosperous in their day, can hardly be 
instanced as examples of prosperity for the people of the country 
in which they are located, who are not owners of successful mines. 
. , . Against this, and other like enterprises, may be cited, for 
one thing, the disadvantage of the wholesale destruction of timber. 
The country about Unsan has been practically denuded of timber, 
and in an agricultural country like Korea this is undoubtedly an 
evil. 

This much has been said of the effects of the operations of a 
successful company, conducted on a conservative basis, merely to 
show that the advantages of the development of Korean resources 
about which so much has been said, are not unmixed blessings. 
The matter is of some importance in the light of all that has been 
published of late upon the subject. . . . English and German 
companies each obtained a mining concession, but neither proved 
financially successful. Japanese also obtained one concession, in 
which American capital is at present interested. . . . The 



358 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

system of granting mining concessions was open to so many 
objections that foreign representatives frequently importuned 
the Korean Government to issue mining regulations under 
which the mineral resources of the country could be system- 
atically developed. Nothing was done, however, until after the 
establishment of the Residency-General, when a mining law was 
passed. This law provides for mining under proper safeguards 
as regards public and private interests. Under the old system, or 
rather lack of system, the concessionaire could do practically 
what he pleased within the limits of his concession. Now he 
must conform to laws and regulations which permit him to carry 
on his business under conditions which promote the interests and 
conserve the rights of all concerned. 

The business methods which have developed in Korea since 
intercourse with foreigners began are the natural outgrowth of 
the circumstances and of the practices prevailing before that 
time. Reference is not here intended to ordinary commercial 
transactions, but to that species of business which has its rise in 
government favors and thrives by government patronage. In a 
country where the Government is the fountain-head of favors of 
every description, it was perhaps inevitable that the results should 
be those which we see in Korea. Viewed from the most favorable 
standpoint they certainly leave much to be desired. The Gov- 
ernment, or, as has really been the actual fact, the Emperor, has 
been persuaded to enter into a number of business enterprises, 
both public and private, not a single one of which has been suc- 
cessful and every one of which has been the occasion of loss either 
to the public treasury or to His Majesty's privy purse. Under- 
takings of various kinds wooden manufactories, glass factories, 
railways, etc. have been projected, but have gone no further than 
the stage of involving the employment of foreign directors, as- 
sistants, and the like, and have stopped there. Sometimes foreign 
experts have been employed who were really capable of conducting 
the business for which their services were secured. They have 
come to Korea, only to discover that no preparations have been 
made to carry on the enterprises with which they were to be con- 
nected. In other cases, the persons engaged to oversee the pro- 



FOREIGNERS AND FOREIGN RELATIONS 359 

jected enterprises have been notoriously incompetent, and the 
whole affair has smacked largely of fraud from beginning to end. 
It would require too much space to recount the various under- 
takings of a public nature which have been attempted and have 
ignominiously failed. The result has been monotonously the same 
in every instance namely, the payment by the Korean Govern- 
ment of large sums of money for useless material and for services 
never rendered. Another source of heavy loss has been the con- 
tracts made on behalf of the Government for all sorts of things 
rice that was never needed, arms and ammunition which were 
worthless, railroad material which was never delivered, and so on 
through the long list of wasteful expenditure of the public funds. 
It is something hardly capable of direct proof, but there is no reas- 
onable doubt that almost every one of these enterprises had its 
inspiration in the desire for illicit gain by one or another of the 
officials interested. The explanation of the foreigners interested 
may be summed up in the phrase, "that is the way business is 
done in Korea." The Empire has been the happy hunting- 
ground for the foreign business man not over-scrupulous as to the 
methods by which money was to be made. Equally it has held 
out golden opportunities to the promoter and hunter for " con- 
cessions." This does not include those foreigners who are willing 
to take the chances of success and the pecuniary risks inseparable 
from enterprises like mining, for example, but that other class of 
promoters who desire to get something for nothing, and then sell 
it to others. The gentlemen who have so much to say about 
"enlisting foreign capital" in the development of Korea's re- 
sources will generally be found upon investigation to be prepared 
only to "enlist" some one else's capital. The promoter has his 
uses, no doubt, and, as a pioneer in new fields, unquestionably 
accomplishes good in some cases. Unfortunately, in Korea the 
results of his activities can hardly be classed in this category. . . . 
Especially is this true of those enterprises with which His 
Majesty has been most prominently identified as an investor. As 
before said, they have invariably resulted in heavy losses to the 
privy purse. Various explanations have been given for this, but 
the fact remains and cannot be disputed. Others have pros- 



360 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

pered, but so far as His Majesty is concerned, the balance has 
always been on the debit side of the ledger. 

If it were necessary to multiply instances of the injury done 
to the economic interests of the Korean people, and of the 
difficulty of adjusting in any half-satisfactory way the claims 
of foreign promoters and concessionaires, it could easily be 
done upon good evidence. But mention of a few such in- 
stances only with the suppression of names and details, for 
obvious reasons will suffice to convince the reader, however 
"patriotic" in such matters, who has even the semblance of 
a candid mind. Prominent among examples is that of a 
foreign company of contractors, who have obtained from 
the Korean Government a variety of claims, such as public- 
utility franchises, and a mining concession. Of the former, 
one franchise had cost the Privy Purse of the Korean Em- 
peror not less than 600,000 yen up to 1902; and when it was 
sold to satisfy a mortgage held by these same contractors, 
although Mr. J. McLeavy Brown, at the time Commissioner- 
General of Customs, who had been appointed to audit the 
accounts, recommended that items aggregating 1,100,000 yen 
should be disallowed, and gave his judgment to the effect 
that foreclosure would be a grave injustice to His Majesty, 
the latter was induced to buy one-half of the property at 
750,000 yen. The whole of the same property not long be- 
fore had been offered at 800,000 yen! This public utility 
still fails to yield a dollar in dividends to the royal in- 
vestor. 

Another franchise of this same company has been sold, 
without any investment o capital on their part, to an English 
company for 15,000 cash and 50,000 in fully paid-up 
ordinary shares. Under the apparent impression that they 
have even yet not sufficiently profited from the Privy Purse 
of the Emperor and the national treasury of this poverty- 



FOREIGNERS AND FOREIGN RELATIONS 361 

stricken land, the same company is bringing all possible 
" influence" to bear in order to validate their claims to a 
" Mining Concession." With regard to this last claim, which 
is still contested, it is enough for our purposes to say that it 
was surreptitiously obtained; that the stipulation which re- 
quired a capital of $1,000,000 fully paid up at the time of 
incorporation has been violated; and that the provision 
which guarantees that no other mining concession should be 
made to any one, native or foreign, until these concession- 
aires had made their choice, is plainly contra bonos mores. 
Moreover, negotiations have been entered into by this 
company for the sale of this concession to another foreign 
syndicate. 

The mining claim of these foreign promoters, although it 
has not yet been wholly adjusted is, indeed, a cause c'elebre 
on account of the large sums involved; but it only illustrates 
a special combination of the elements which are found, with 
a difference of mixture, in all the cases of this general char- 
acter. There was the foolish and wanton Emperor, who has 
little intelligent care for the material or other interests of his 
people; the crafty and corrupt Koreans, officials and ex- 
officials; the land rich in unexplored and undeveloped re- 
sources, and the "enterprising" foreigner, unscrupulous as 
to his methods and ready to utilize either truly or falsely 
his alleged " influence" with the officials of his own Govern- 
ment. Another case, in which all the participants were 
Koreans with the exception of one foreigner, has also been 
charged to the account of the Japanese Government on the 
debit side. This foreigner, having put forth the claim to be 
a mining engineer (he was in truth only a miner a so-called 
"three-^m-a-day" man), associated himself with a Korean, 
popularly known as "Pak the liar," and through the latter 
obtained the assistance at Court of a powerful official and his 
friends. A " company" was formed, which obtained from 



362 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

the Emperor an elaborate document of the ''franchise" sort, 
giving them the exclusive right to find coal-oil where no 
coal-oil was, to bottle mineral water from springs which have 
no valuable qualities to their water, and to export coal which 
was totally unfit for export. Appeals were constantly made, 
and answered, for funds to further this enterprise, until His 
Majesty became tired, and the whole affair was wound up. 
This was done by paying the foreigner 12,000 yen claimed as 
back pay. He then departed to his native land to complain 
that the Japanese were inimical to the investment of foreign 
capital in Korea. The net result was a few thousand tons of 
coal taken from one small mine sold, but the proceeds never 
accounted for; an expenditure from the Privy Purse variously 
estimated at from 300,000 yen to 400,000 yen; and the en- 
richment of certain Korean officials and ex-officials. For 
all this Mr. Megata, the Japanese Financial Adviser, had 
to provide the money. The "Poong Poo" Company 
itself never had any money to put into its " promoting" 
schemes. 

That the charge of favoring their own countrymen in the 
matter of concessions and monopolies, which has been some- 
what freely made abroad against the Japanese Government 
in Korea, is not justifiable, the following proof may be cited. 
At some time between January 15 and January 29 of 1905, 
Mr. Yi-chai-kuk, then Minister of the Imperial Household of 
Korea, recognized and signed no fewer than twenty-three 
concessions granted to one Yi-Sei-chik, a Korean, and his 
four Japanese associates. These concessions included the 
consolidation of taxation on land, the utilization of the 
water-ways for various purposes, and state monopolies of 
tobacco, salt, kerosene, etc. Imperial orders were secretly 
given to the same Yi to raise a foreign loan of several 
million yen for the purpose of detecting the secrets of 
the Military Headquarters stationed in Korea, as well as 



FOREIGNERS AND FOREIGN RELATIONS 363 

of the Tokyo Government, and to make reports about 
them. 1 

These iniquitous transactions in which Koreans and Jap- 
anese were concerned were made, when discovered, the occa- 
sion of a memorandum of protest. This memorandum re- 
minded the Korean Government and Court that they have 
often been unfaithful to the "general plan of administrative 
reform," based upon the compact made between Korea and 
Japan, by granting to foreigners various important conces- 
sions in secret ways. "With a view of putting an end to 
any further recurrence of such complications, an express 
Agreement was entered into, August, 1904, by which "it 
was stipulated that, in case of granting concessions to foreign- 
ers, or of making contracts with foreigners, the Imperial 
Governments should first be informed and consulted with." 
The memorandum then goes on to express profound regret 
that "His Majesty and his Court" had attempted by these 
concessions, "in defiance of this provision, a breach of faith." 
Then follows the demand upon the Minister for Foreign 
Affairs of Korea to take the following steps: 

1. The Minister for Foreign Affairs, after stating to His 
Majesty the above facts and reasons, shall announce in a most 
public way under the Imperial order that the concessions above 
mentioned are null and void, as they have failed to observe the 
provisions of the Agreement between Korea and Japan. 

2. It shall also be most publicly announced under the Im- 
perial order that, in any case of granting concessions to foreigners, 
either the Korean Government or the Court shall first consult 
with the Imperial Government. 

This memorandum bears date of July n, 1905. But this 
instance of the most decisive steps taken by the Japanese 

1 This fact has been clearly proven by papers found on the body of 
Yi-Sei-chik, when he was afterward arrested and detained at head- 
quarters, as well as by his personal statements. 



364 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Government to prevent its own subjects from profiting by 
secret and corrupt alliance with Korean officials, for the ob- 
taining of concessions and contracts, is by no means an 
isolated one. In truth, the Japanese Protectorate is more 
severe in dealing with such cases where Japanese are con- 
cerned, than where other foreigners have the chief interests. 
And repeatedly has the Resident- General assured his own 
countrymen that they must expect no favors in business 
schemes for exploiting Korea to their own advantage, but to 
the injury of the Koreans themselves. Indeed, he has 
publicly declared to all such Japanese: " You have me for 
your enemy" 

More recently effective measures have been enacted and 
put into force to make impossible the recurrence of the old- 
time ways of robbing Korea by schemes for " promoting" 
her business enterprises and by secret ways of obtaining 
concessions. Among- such measures is the safeguarding of 
the "Imperial black seal" (the Emperor's private seal), 
which could formerly be used to plunder the treasury with- 
out the knowledge or consent of its legalized guardians, or 
even of the Emperor himself. Under the new regulations, 
the black seal cannot be legally used except with the knowl- 
edge and attestation of the Minister of the Household and 
his Imperial Treasurer. 

Among the other foreign relations into which Japan has 
entered, to substitute for Korea, is the protection of Korean 
emigrants. Although Korea needs, and can for a long 
time to come support, all its own natural increase of 
native population, and .several millions of foreign immigrants 
besides, the complete lack of opportunity for "getting ahead" 
in their native land caused a considerable exodus of her own 
population some six or seven years ago. At the instance of 
an American, about 8,000 Korean men and 400 Korean 
women emigrated to Hawaii. In 1905 a Mexican prevailed 



FOREIGNERS AND FOREIGN RELATIONS 365 

upon 1,300 natives to go to Mexico. This experience led the 
Korean Government, in April, 1905, to issue an order pro- 
hibiting the emigration of Korean laborers. Under the 
Japanese Protectorate, however, in July, 1906, "An Emi- 
grant Protection Law," with detailed rules for its operation, 
was enacted, which came into force on the i5th of September 
of the same year. 

With regard to all foreign relations with Korea, whether of 
legitimate business, of commerce, or of emigration, the civi- 
lized world is undoubtedly much better off now that their 
custody is in the hands of the Japanese Residency- General. 
In our judgment the same thing is true of those moral and 
religious interests represented by the missionary bodies al- 
ready established, or to be established in the future, in the 
Korean peninsula. This is not, indeed, the opinion of all 
the missionaries themselves. As regards the whole subject 
of the effect of the Protectorate upon mission work past, 
present, and future there is a difference of opinion among 
the missionaries themselves. As to the attitude of Marquis 
Ito there can be no reasonable doubt. His expressions of 
feeling and intention have been frequently mentioned in the 
earlier chapters of this book. The missionary problem will 
be discussed, apart, in a later chapter. 

As to the general feeling of the Koreans themselves toward 
foreigners, the following quotations are believed to express 
the truth; 

Since the inauguration of foreign intercourse the anti-foreign 
feeling of which the Tai Won Kun was so prominent an exponent, 
appears to have died out. Possibly it may linger still in the minds 
of some of the old-fashioned Confucian scholars, but not to any 
appreciable extent. Formerly it was, no doubt, possible to excite 
the people against foreigners for slight cause; but exhibitions of 
anti-foreign sentiment in recent times appear to have been 
officially instigated, as, for example, the massacre of the French 



3 66 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

missionaries and their converts, for which the Tai Won Kim is 
held responsible. More intimate intercourse with the representa- 
tives of Western civilization, and especially missionary labor 
which has been so genuinely successful, seem to have eliminated 
anything like a general feeling of dislike for foreigners. 

The case of the Japanese stands by itself in this regard. Much 
has been written of the ancient hatred of Koreans for Japanese. 
Traces of that feeling may linger, but that it is an ineradicable 
national trait, as some would seem to hold, hardly seems pos- 
sible. Koreans and Japanese have lived together in complete 
amity and good fellowship in the past, and there is no good reason 
why they should not live side by side on the best of terms in the 
future. Certainly none in the sentiment of dislike on one side, 
for the origin of which we must go back nearly three centuries. 
The practical difficulty, the dislike which really counts, is of more 
modern origin. Korea and Japan have been jostled together, as 
it were, by two wars in recent times, and the weaker of the two 
has suffered a circumstance to be regretted, no doubt, but still 
inevitable. Korea has experienced some of the evils which follow 
in war's train; and while they were not nearly so disastrous as 
has been represented, they have left a feeling of dislike and dis- 
trust for those who are held responsible. This was to have been 
expected and counted upon; for the remedy we must await the 
wider and more intelligent comprehension of the real meaning of 
the new order of things. When it is finally understood that even- 
handed justice is the rule, that the life and property of every man, 
no matter how humble, are safe under the law, and that the pres- 
ence of the alien does not mean licensed extortion and oppression, 
we shall not hear anything more of that racial hatred upon which 
so much stress has been laid. 



CHAPTER XVI 
WRONGS: REAL AND FANCIED 

AMONG the many embarrassments encountered by Marquis 
Ito as Japanese Resident-General in his efforts to reform 
and elevate Korea, there is perhaps no one more persistent 
and hard to overcome than the charges of fraud and violence 
made against his own countrymen. These charges come 
from various sources and are promulgated in a variety of 
ways. Sometimes they take the form of a book as, for 
example, Mr. Hulbert's "Passing of Korea." For months 
the Korean Daily News, under the editorship of Mr. Bethell, 
in both its native and its English editions, filled its daily 
columns with complaints, wearisomely reiterated after- they 
had been repeatedly disproved, or made anew on insufficient 
grounds and even without any trustworthy evidence what- 
ever. In scarcely less degree, the same thing has been true 
of certain English papers printed outside of Korea, especially 
in China. More effective still in producing an impression 
abroad, but not more trustworthy, have been the published 
letters of many travellers and newspaper correspondents. 
Conspicuous among the latter class was the letter of Mr. 
William T. Ellis to the New York Tri-Weekly Tribune, in 
which it was stated that, under the then existing Japanese 
Government, "robbery, abuse, oppression, injustice, and 
even murder are the lot of the Korean common people." 1 

1 This serious charge was made by the writer and published to a 
friendly nation, on the basis of no personal knowledge, not to say care- 
ful investigation, and after casual conversation with a small number of 
witnesses who belong to the class peculiarly liable to be deceived both 
as to facts and as to causes of such alleged incidents. 

367 



368 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Most deplorable 1 of all are the hasty and inconsiderate charges 
believed on exaggerated or wholly false accounts of the 
Koreans themselves, and propagated by the relatively small 
body of missionaries who have remained for reasons to 
be considered subsequently in an attitude of open or secret 
hostility to the Japanese Protectorate. 

The charges against the Japanese of violence and fraud 
in Korea may be divided into four classes: those which are 
important and true; those which are trivial and only partly 
true; those which are exaggerated; and those which are 
wholly false. Of the first kind there are a few only; of the 
second there are many; of the third there are even a greater 
number; and of the fourth there are not a few. In judging 
the conduct of the Japanese Government and its officials 
of all ranks and classes, as distinguished from the conduct 
of adventurous and unscrupulous individual Japanese, the 
material and social condition of affairs in the peninsula during 
and immediately after the Russo-Japanese war cannot fairly 
be left out of the account. One complaint brought by its 
most unsympathetic critics against the Government is that 
it did not foresee the influx of undesirable characters into 
Korea during the war and make sufficient provision for their 
control. But precisely the opposite of this complaint is true. 
The military and other coolies and camp-followers had given 
much trouble and embarrassment to the Japanese officials 
in the war with China. Accordingly, the military authorities 
determined at the beginning of the war with Russia to avoid 
such complications by composing the military train wholly 
of enlisted men. Thus many recruits students, profes- 
sional men, and tradesmen who did not come up to the 
standard set for the soldier, or who were not ready for service 

1 Deplorable, on account of its effect, direct and indirect, upon the 
Koreans, upon Marquis Ito's efforts at reform, and upon the mis- 
sionary cause in Japan as well as Korea, 



WRONGS: REAL AND FANCIED 369 

in the ranks, served as cart-pullers, burden-bearers, and in 
other laborious and humble ways. The conduct of the 
army, and of the enlisted men generally, in Korea and 
Manchuria, was so admirable as to call out the quite unex- 
ampled approval of all candid observers. Looting was 
almost absolutely prevented; the extremely rare cases of 
rape were punished with death as soon as the offence was 
proved; violence or insult toward all non-combatants was 
of rare occurrence; and the treatment of the Russian prison- 
ers of war evoked the gratitude of the prisoners themselves. 
In all these respects, the difference between the Japanese 
and the Chinese and Russians was indeed remarkable. 

At the beginning of the war the Tokyo government, per- 
ceiving that the civil authorities in Korea were already over- 
burdened with labors consequent upon the great influx of 
Japanese many of them belonging to the lower classes 
proposed a bill to establish new courts and an increased force 
of police. In the pressure of important business connected 
with the life-or-death struggle in which Japan was then 
engaged, the bill did not pass. A Police Adviser to the 
Korean Government was, however, appointed. What must 
have been the complete incompetency of the Korean magis- 
trates and police at such a time of confusion may be faintly 
imagined by one who like the author has seen how in- 
effectively they still discharged their functions, for the pro- 
tection of their own officials and for the maintenance of 
order in the country, at the time of his visit in the spring of 
1907. It would have been strange, then, if anything ap- 
proaching an even-handed justice through the courts, or a 
complete condition of order by fear of the police, could have 
been secured in Korea in 1904 and 1905. No such justice 
or order has ever existed in this land of misrule. Japan 
secured it during the occupation of war, so far as its own 
enlisted men were concerned; but its rights as "Protector" 



370 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

were not fully gained and defined until after the close of the 
war. 

Among the most serious of the charges which are important 
and, in certain instances, true, is that made against the mili- 
tary authorities for the appropriation of lands for military 
and railway uses, to an unreasonable extent, and in unfair 
ways. "There can be no question," says Mr. D. W. Stevens, 
"that at the outset the military authorities in Korea did 
intimate an intention of taking more land for these uses 
than seemed reasonable. They proceeded upon the principle 
that the Korean Government had bound itself to grant all 
land necessary for railway and military uses, and itself to 
indemnify the owners an assumption which was technically 
correct. But the owners, knowing the custom of their own 
government under such circumstances, were hopeless of 
obtaining anything like adequate redress. This, it should be 
remembered, happened during the war, when martial law 
was in the ascendant." When peace came, other counsels 
prevailed; the intention to appropriate additional large tracts 
was abandoned; and the amount staked off for military 
purposes was greatly reduced was, indeed, in several 
instances, made only a fraction of the original amount. For 
all the domain granted or appropriated by the Korean 
Government there has already accrued to the country, in 
transportation facilities and other economic and political 
advantages, far more than its actual value at the time of its 
granting or appropriation. For the private land owned by 
Koreans a fair price was paid in the majority of cases. The 
prohibition of the owners within the delimited areas to sell 
their lands and houses was designed to prevent prior purchase 
by speculators and other indirect attempts to obtain extrava- 
gant prices. The military authorities, under the pressure of 
what they regarded as necessity, solved these difficulties in 
the military way a way that certainly does not commend 



WRONGS: REAL AND FANCIED 371 

itself to civilians in times of peace, but which has been 
employed too often by all the other civilized nations to enable 
them to cast stones freely at the Japanese.. Even by these 
high-handed measures they could not avoid, in certain cases, 
paying much more for land owned by foreigners than it was 
really worth. 1 

It must further be confessed that a considerable number 
of Japanese sharpers for the most part usurious money- 
lenders have obtained land from Koreans in unjust and 
oppressive ways. This species of robbery is made the more 
difficult to detect and punish for the following reasons: 
The Korean customs and laws concerning the transference 
of titles to land are inadequate and confusing (for this reason, 
some of the landed property belonging to other foreigners 
than the Japanese, and even to the missionary bodies, would 
have no little difficulty in establishing title) ; the Koreans are 
given to issuing false and forged deeds, or in their ignorance 
claiming title and conferring title where no such right ex- 
ists; finally, in numerous instances, both Korean or foreign 
'"squatters" (see p. 295 f.) and the government or some of its 
officials are asserting, either honestly or fraudulently, their 
holding of good title to the same piece of land. On all this 
class of offences we may trust implicitly the statement of the 
foreign official (an American) whose duty has led him to 
examine into a large number of these cases: "The theft of 

1 It has been asserted that the value of the land staked off by the 
Japanese military authorities near Seoul was 6,000,000 yen. As the 
result of a "painstaking and impartial investigation" it was found that, 
at the highest market price, this land would not have brought more 
than 750,000 to 1,000,000 yen. The Korean way in such matters is 
well illustrated by the experience of the Young Men's Christian Asso- 
ciation in Seoul, who, when one small piece of land was needed to 
complete their site, were obliged to invoke an official order preventing 
the sale to any other party; and even then paid a price probably two 
or three times its true market value. Compare also what is said, p. 98 f., 
about the Pyeng-yang affair. 



372 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

land by eviction, false deeds, etc.," says this authority, "is 
another offence upon which great stress has been laid. Un- 
doubtedly there were a number of cases of this kind, although 
here again exaggeration has been at work. The commonest 
instances were those where money-lenders were concerned; 
and, in these cases, as in almost all others of the kind, Koreans 
were associated in some way or other with the frauds which 
were perpetrated. A spendthrift son or nephew would give 
false title-deeds, or even pawn the genuine ones without 
authority; a Korean rascal would conspire with a Japanese 
of the same kidney to defraud other Koreans, and so on 
through the long gamut of fraud wherein Korean connivance 
was an indispensable prerequisite to success. The offences 
relating to land have now been rendered practically impossible 
through the promulgation of land regulations by the Residency- 
General." 

In a word, offences of this kind committed by the Japanese 
against the Koreans, however numerous and grievous they 
may have been, have proved short-lived; they were formerly 
due to the disturbed conditions of a period of war, and 
will now speedily be brought to an end. Summing them all 
up, and even without making allowance for exaggerations, 
the cry of the Koreans against the Japanese on the charge of 
fraud and oppression touching their land is only as a drop to 
a good-sized bucket compared with the cry of the Irish against 
the English, or of the Koreans themselves against their own 
countrymen. The wrongs are small indeed as compared 
with those which have characterized the behavior of Amer- 
icans against Americans in our own West. 1 

1 What is the state of the case in certain portions of the West is truth- 
fully told in the following paragraph quoted from a popular journal: 
"In the matter of cheating Indians and acquiring public lands in ways 
which bear all the ethical aspects of theft, there is no public or private 
morality either in Oklahoma or any other of those Western States 
where Indians and public lands continue to exist." 



WRONGS: REAL AND FANCIED 373 

Of brutal and murderous assaults from Japanese upon 
Korean men and women there are indeed instances; but 
the cases prove on examination to have been by no means 
frequent. They have been, on the whole, fewer than such 
crimes are accustomed to be between peoples of two nations 
similarly placed. Indeed, they have been fewer than those 
occurring to-day between different classes and different 
nationals in many of the civilized countries of the Western 
World. They bear no comparison to the horrors which 
have for centuries been familiar in most of the Orient, in- 
cluding Korea itself. "Wholesale military executions," for 
example, of the Koreans who tore up the track of the military 
railroad have been charged against the Japanese as virtually 
murders. But during the entire war there was never a 
single instance of what is known as "drum-head court 
martial" of a Korean for such an offence. After the trial the 
evidence in each case was transmitted to the Headquarters at 
Seoul, where the case was confirmed, modified, or reversed. 
The Japanese military authorities consented to have a Korean 
official present at each trial as an amicus curia of the defend- 
ant; but the Korean Government declined to be represented 
and claimed that all such cases should be tried before their 
own officials only. What would have been the outcome of 
such a committal of the most vital military interests of Japan 
to Korean magistrates it needs no great amount of experience 
to judge. A Korean, for example, who had been arrested by 
a Japanese gendarme and taken before a native magistrate 
was duly punished for "throwing a stone at the railway!" 
But on his being rearrested and tried before a military court 
it was established that the man had been repeatedly con- 
victed of piling stones upon the track with a view to wreck the 
trains conveying the Japanese soldiers; whereupon the sen- 
tence of the military court was confirmed from Headquarters 
and the man was quite properly executed. 



374 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Of the killing of Koreans, unprovoked and without the 
excuse of self-defence, by Japanese, there have been at no 
time any considerable number of cases. Indeed, the murders 
of men and women of the other nationality, while in the quiet 
discharge of their official duty or in their homes, have been 
far more numerous. This was especially true while the 
country was stirred to riot and bloodshed by the abdication 
of the Emperor in July, 1907, and by the disbandment of 
the Korean army, when mistaken or feigned "patriotism" 
was showing itself in the customary Korean way. But that 
there is nothing new about all this, a reference to chapters 
which have sketched (IX and X) the history of the relations 
of the countries in the past centuries will abundantly show. 

Of serious and unprovoked assaults of Koreans by Jap- 
anese there have been, doubtless, a considerable number. 
It would be impossible to tell just how many, even as a result 
of the most patient and candid investigation ; if for no other 
reason, because the Korean habit of exaggeration and lying 
renders almost all the uncorroborated testimony of the 
natives untrustworthy. This experience with official lying 
to cover their own countrymen against the demands of 
foreigners for justice, or to enforce indemnity in cases of 
false charges made against foreigners for assault on Koreans, 
is not confined to the Japanese. It is the common experience 
with all Korean judicial procedure. 1 

Among the more serious unproved charges against Japan- 

1 On one occasion the British and Chinese Ministers jointly urged 
the payment of indemnity in the case of two Chinamen, one a British 
protege ', who had been injured in a fight with tax-collecting officials at 
a place to which Chinese junks were in the habit of resorting. The 
British protege had died of his wounds, both he and his companion 
having been confined after the fight in the magistrate's yamen. The 
Korean local officials contended that only one person had been killed 
namely, the wounded Chinaman. When confronted with the fact 
that, according to their own report,, there was a dead Chinaman in the 



WRONGS: REAL AND FANCIED 375 

ese officials was that of torturing Korean prisoners by Jap- 
anese gendarmes at the time of the so-called "cleansing" of 
the Palace. Mr. Hulbert published this charge and specified, 
on the authority of " numerous witnesses," the exact char- 
acter of .the torture namely, by a kind of iron instrument 
designed to squeeze the head. Immediately Marquis Ito 
took up the matter and sent a messenger to Mr. Hulbert to 
express his earnest desire to probe the matter thoroughly; 
and his intention, in case the charge was proved, to punish 
the offenders severely. This request implied, as a matter 
of course, the pledge of protection to the witnesses; and Mr. 
Hulbert agreed to furnish the evidence. But when this 
could not be done, the excuse was first offered that the wit- 
nesses were afraid to come forward; and next, the "nu- 
merous witnesses" resolved themselves into one person, who 
had "gone into the country." When still further pressed to 
furnish the promised evidence, the story of the iron head- 
rack was altogether abandoned, and for it was substituted 
the charge that a certain eunuch had been arrested and 
beaten by the police. But this, if it occurred, is only ac- 
cording to the Korean custom of judicial procedure, still to 
be allowed, after the torture of criminals had been legally 
abolished under Japanese influence. Nevertheless, this con- 
fessedly false charge was afterward included in a pamphlet 
by the same authority as another instance of Japanese out- 
rages in Korea. 1 

yamen the morning after, they replied that this man was not in the 
fracas at all; he had merely crawled into the yamen during the night, 
and had died of some unknown disease. The picture of this shrewd 
Celestial going to -the yamen to die, apparently for the purpose of fraud- 
ulently foisting an incriminating corpus delicti upon the innocent Ko- 
rean official, did not appeal to the British Minister, and he got his 
indemnity. 

1 See "The Japanese in Korea," Extracts from The Korean Review, 
p. 46 /. 



376 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Of rudeness and petty assaults the Koreans have, no doubt, 
had much to endure at the hands of the coolies and other low- 
class Japanese. But not so much as the Burmese and East 
Indians have had to endure from the British soldier and 
petty official in their own home land; or the Chinese and 
Japanese on the Pacific Coast of the United States; and, 
probably, not more than the Japanese themselves during 
the earlier days of the entrance of foreigners into Japan. 
While the atrocious treatment of the natives by the Belgians 
in Africa, by the French in Madagascar, by the Russians in 
many parts of Asia, is as midnight darkness to twilight 
or full dawn when compared with anything done to Koreans 
of late years by the Japanese. 

In order to understand, but not to excuse, this harsh and 
bullying attitude of the foreigner toward the native, two 
things need to be borne in mind. The first is this: Korea 
has never been a land where the common people have been 
treated with any decency, not to say respect. In the old days 
the days to change which the Japanese Government is 
planning and doing more than any other human agency 
the attendants of officials beat every commoner who came 
within their reach; this was as a matter of course; it was an 
evidence, not much resented by the people, of the superiority 
of their master. Lieutenant Foulk describes how, when he 
was travelling in the country, his chair coolies on approaching 
an inn would accelerate their pace and, rushing into the yard 
at the top of their speed, would begin to belabor every one 
in sight. "In 1885," says Mr. Stevens, "I was riding 
through the streets of Seoul on official business. Among my 
attendants were several policemen armed with the many- 
thonged whips carried in those days. The policemen slashed 
with these at the curious who pressed around the chair, re- 
gardless of where the blows fell. One old woman, lashed in 
the face until the blood came, still pressed forward when the 



WRONGS: REAL AND FANCIED 377 

policeman had passed, eager to see the foreigner close at 
hand, and apparently regarding the blows as a matter of 
course." To-day such cruelty is in no respect rare among 
the "amiable Koreans." Indeed, without something of 
this kind, it is difficult in the country for the traveller, whether 
native or foreigner, to get anything done. " During the first 
two days," says Mr. Henry Norman, 1 -"I was greatly an- 
noyed by my mapouSj whom I could not get along at all. At 
the midday halt they would lie about for a couple of hours, 
and jn the morning it was two or three hours after I was up 
before I could get them to start. On the third morning I 
lost my temper, and going into their room, I kicked them one 
after the other into the yard. This was evidently what they 
expected, for they set to work immediately. Unless they 
were kicked they could not believe the hurry was real. After- 
ward, by a similar procedure, I started whenever I wished." 
Again, Mr. Angus Hamilton, after bringing a railing accusa- 
tion against the Japanese for their bullying methods with 
the Koreans, recommends that the Korean interpreter "be 
flogged" if he suggests the employment of too many servants, 
asserts that "an occasional kick" is helpful to convert the 
Korean into a "willing if unintelligent servant," and closes 
his book with the frank narrative of his falling into a blind 
rage and taking vengeance right and left because of his 
disappointment over the defeat of a scheme for an exploring 
and sporting trip to the northern part of the peninsula. 2 

The second consideration to which reference was made 
brings out the more humorous side of the picture. In Korea 

1 The Far East (London, T. Fisher Unwin, 1901), p. 337 /. 

2 Korea (Chas. Scribner's Sons, 1904), pp. 128 /.; 274 /. Perhaps 
the underlying reason for much of Mr. Hamilton's rather vituperative 
criticism of affairs in Korea may be found in Chapter XII, where 
Japanese, American, and British merchants, and Lord Salisbury are 
all severely taken to task because too much of Korea's trade is falling 
into other than English hands. 



378 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

it makes a great difference, not only whose ox is gored, but 
who gores the ox. Small favors of the kind which are re- 
ceived uncomplainingly almost gratefully from their own 
officials, and even from other friends, are by no means just 
now received in the same way from the Japanese. Of this 
fact Dr. Gale gives an admirable description: it is that of a 
Korean lounging along in the middle of the road and smoking 
the pipe of contemplative abstraction a habit indulged in 
by almost all Koreans in the most inconvenient places. A 
Japanese jinrikisha-man pushes him rudely to one side,, and 
not being at all firm upon his legs, he goes sprawling on the 
ground (comp. p. 172 f.). Eyes raised to heaven, he calls 
upon the skies to fall; for the end of all things has come. 
"But," says the passing stranger, "a missionary pushed you 
out of the way yesterday; another foreigner beat you the day 
before;: your own people have always kicked and cuffed you." 
"Yes, yes, but a Japanese! Only think of it a Japanese!" 
Among the partially true, but greatly exaggerated, charges 
of petty oppression and injustice must be classed the claim 
that the labor on the Japanese military railway was enforced 
by personal cruelties and paid for at unfair prices. Again, 
it must be remembered that the prompt conclusion of this 
work was a military necessity of the first importance. In 
the rush and confusion which accompanied its execution, it 
would have been strange if there had not been cases of harsh 
treatment of laborers by the Japanese sub-contractors. 
Where an appeal, accompanied by trustworthy evidence, was 
taken -to the higher authorities, it was possible to obtain re- 
dress in almost every instance. But there was another class 
of cases where it was almost impossible to secure anything 
like decent reparation ; these were chiefly under the manage- 
ment of the Koreans themselves. Concerning such cases, 
the statement of an authority, made on grounds of personal 
knowledge, is quoted below: 



WRONGS: REAL AND FANCIED 379 

Complaints came from various sources, all of the same tenor. 
Laborers living long distances from the railway were compelled 
to come to work at wages which hardly paid for their food. Yet 
at this time the authorities were paying wages much higher than 
any that could be earned by these men in other occupations. As 
the laborers could not appeal, or did not appeal, directly to the 
military authorities, but usually waited until their return home to 
repeat the story of their wrongs, it was difficult to ascertain the 
truth. Whenever an investigation was possible, however, it was 
usually discovered that the ill-treatment was due to a combina- 
tion between interpreters, sub-contractors, and local officials. 
The sub-contractors had to have men, and, either through inter- 
preters or directly, would make contracts with the local officials 
to supply a certain number of laborers. These were almost in- 
variably secured one or two day's journey from the railway line; 
as it would not do to attract too much attention by interfering 
with the people living near the railway. The laborers would be 
compelled to work for about one-fourth of the wages really paid, 
and the balance would be divided between the interpreters and 
local officials. In certain cases the people were allowed exemp- 
tion from this drafting system upon the payment of ransom, 
estimated upon the basis of the number of men which they had 
been asked to supply. Only recently an officer, who during the 
war had charge of the construction of an important section of 
the Seoul- Wiju line, related a case of this kind. He was pay- 
ing one dollar and thirty cents, Korean money, as a day's 
wages; the men were well treated, and food was cheap and 
abundant. Still there was constant trouble on account of in- 
sufficient supply of labor, the reason for which the closest investiga- 
tion failed to reveal. But only a few months ago (more than t\vo 
years, that is, after the experience) the officer met a man who 
explained the reason. It seemed that the Korean Governor of 
the province had an arrangement with the interpreters which was 
mutually profitable even when laborers were not actually procured 
for the work. The operations were carried on over a large extent 
of territory distant, as was customary, several day's journey from 
the railway. As many laborers as could be induced, or forced, to 



380 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

come, were paid thirty-five cents a day the conspirators pocketing 
the balance. In the majority of cases where the people preferred 
.to purchase exemption, these precious rascals collected consider- 
able sums. And, of course, the military authorities got all the 
blame, as all this was done in their name. Sometimes the sub- 
contractors assisted by sending out parties, Korean and Japanese, 
armed with swords and pistols, for the purpose of intimidating 
the unwilling or the recalcitrant. On several occasions condign 
punishment was inflicted for offences of this kind, but as actual 
violence was very rarely committed and the intimidation was 
carried on quietly, where it could not easily be discovered, it was 
difficult to secure convincing proof against the culprits. 

Fair-minded persons, familiar with the facts, know that the 
military authorities did all that could have reasonably been asked 
to put a stop to such practices; but, occurring during a time of 
war, many of these irregularities were of a nature which it was 
difficult wholly to prevent. That officers in the field and at head- 
quarters were always ready to listen to complaints and, so far as 
lay in their power, to rectify wrongs, is an indisputable fact. 

The reputation of the Japanese army, civil government, 
and the people generally has suffered more from the long- 
standing and the more recent relations between Japan and 
Korea than is customary elsewhere under similar circum- 
stances. This is due partly to inexperience and over self- 
confidence on their own part; but also in larger measure to 
the untrustworthy and corrupt witness of the Korean officials 
and to the ignorance' and credulity of the Korean people; 
most of all, however, to the prejudiced or malignant, untrue 
reports of certain foreigners. During the occupation and 
transit of the Japanese army in the late war, the charges of 
cruelty and injustice on its part were not confined to the 
construction and service of the military railway. While the 
commissary department was paying to the Korean con- 
tractors the full market price for provisions and other sup- 
plies, the contractors were compelling the Korean people to 



WRONGS: REAL AND FANCIED 381 

furnish the supplies, either without pay or at greatly reduced 
rates. From time immemorial, the people of Korea have 
been accustomed to have their rice, chickens, ponies, and 
service, levied upon by their own officials; in the present case 
they, as a matter of course, attributed the same manner of 
getting what you want by taking what you see, to the 
Japanese. 1 

Ignorance of the Korean language and customs is another 
fruitful scource of bad repute for the Japanese. Even now, 
in the city of Seoul, the Japanese who blunders into the 
women's quarters, or even into their too near vicinity, in the 
discharge of his duty to collect a bill, to make an inspection 
or a report of some official character, or to inquire his way, 
is liable to be charged with an intent to commit rape or some 
other form of assault. The Japanese collector of taxes, or 
customs, or the Japanese policeman who protects the ob- 
noxious Korean official, or even the " unpatriotic " Cabinet 
Minister, is a particular object of Korean falsehood and 
hatred. But all these complaints, although they have been 
made much of by the anti- Japanese "friends" of Korea, and 
in spite of the undoubted fact that they greatly increase the 
feeling of bitterness between the two peoples and interfere 
with the benevolent plans of the Resident-General, are in 
themselves comparatively trivial. 

Wholly false charges of oppression and fraud of a much 
more important character have been made against the Jap- 
anese Government in Korea, either in ignorance or with 
malignity, and have industriously been spread abroad by the 
subsidized or the deceived " foreign friends" of the Korean 
Court. One of the most notable of such charges concerned 

1 According to the testimony of travellers in the interior of Korea, 
it is extremely difficult to. get any food, accommodation, or service, 
even when desirous of paying the highest prices, on account of the ex- 
perience with their own travelling officials, who never expect to pay 
for anything exacted from the country people. 



382 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

the so-called " fisheries company." Its history is briefly this. 
Certain Koreans came to a "missionary friend" complaining 
that the Resident-General had peremptorily dissolved a 
Korean company which had a legal concession to develop 
the fisheries industry, thus involving the shareholders in 
heavy losses. The presumption was that the unjust act was 
intended to further in the future the Japanese interest in 
this same industry. But the truth was that the Minister of 
Agriculture, Commerce and Industry had in the Fall of 1906, 
at the solicitation of a "Korean, notorious for previous par- 
ticipation in malodorous schemes," secretly granted to a 
native company a monopoly of all the fishing rights upon the 
entire Korean coasts , except the whale fisheries. In addition 
to this, this same company was given the exclusive right of 
control over all the fish markets in the Empire, so that no 
fish could be sold except at places designated by it and upon 
payment to it of such sums as it might choose to exact. 
When, however, sufficient funds were not speedily available 
from Korean subscribers to float this monstrous and totally 
illegal monopoly, a Japanese visiting capitalist was ap- 
proached by the Korean promoter and asked to buy a half- 
share of the enterprise. His mention of the investment 
offered to him gave to the Residency- General its first knowl- 
edge of the scheme. The Minister of Agriculture, Com- 
merce and Industry was immediately informed that such a 
concession was in plain violation of treaty rights and highly 
prejudicial to Korean private and public interests. The 
Minister was also warned that the concession should be can- 
celled; he promised to do this, and it was supposed that he 
had kept his word. But either through cowardice or con- 
nivance at corruption, the promise was not fulfilled. Months 
later, therefore, the Chief of the Commercial Department of 
the Residency-General, Mr. Kiuchi, while making a tour of 
inspection in Southeastern Korea, received a petition from 



WRONGS: REAL AND FANCIED 383 

the fishermen of the district, complaining that this same 
company was levying taxes upon them and forbidding those 
who did not pay the taxes to continue their fishing. The 
complete dissolution of this illegal monopoly was saved from 
being the object of popular resentment only by the fact that 
its promoters had been ready to share their plunder with a 
Japanese ! l 

Another instance which illustrates, however, the habitual 
exaggeration and ignorant credulity of the Koreans rather 
than their well-known official capacity for fraud, is connected 
with the establishment of the royal "stud-farm" near Pyeng- 
yang. In this case two native pastors from this city, as 
members of a deputation to petition the redress of a great 
wrong, came to a missionary friend in Seoul in great distress. 
Their story was that the Korean officials of the Household 
Department, in complicity with the Japanese officials, had 
enclosed in stakes a territory having a population of fifty 
thousand people and comprising a vast quantity of arable 
land. Within this large area, no one could sell the land, or 
cut timber or grass, or plant crops, or bury the dead; or, in 
brief, put the land to any of its ordinary uses. These official 
prohibitions were said to have been inscribed upon the 
stakes although the petitioners, on being questioned, could 
not tell upon just how many of them. At Seoul, neither the 
Korean nor the Japanese officials knew of any such project 
in connection with the proposed stud-farm; although it was 
true that such a farm was to be established, under the joint 
patronage of their Majesties, the Emperors of Japan and 
Korea. Communication with Marquis Ito, who was then in 
Tokyo, brought a reassuring telegram from him. Investiga- 
tion showed that no notice of the kind had been put upon 
any of the stakes which had been erected to show that all 

1 It furnished Mr. Hulbert and Mr. Bethell, however, with a striking 
instance of the way in which the Japanese are robbing the Koreans. 



384 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

the government lands within the area delimited were re- 
served for the uses of the farm. Nor did the placing of the 
stakes put any restrictions whatever upon the people, so far 
as concerned their own property. The one stake on which 
the mysterious notice did appear had been driven some time 
previous to the very* existence of the scheme for a royal farm; 
and it had reference to a totally different piece of Imperial 
property which it had been designed to guard against en- 
croachments from both Koreans and Japanese dwelling in 
Pyeng-yang. All this excitement could have been avoided 
if the Korean officials had done their duty by way of inform- 
ing and instructing the people. But the simple truth is that 
many of them and of the "foreign friends" of Korea do not 
wish to avoid any popular excitement which will contribute 
to the embarrassment and discredit of the Japanese Govern- 
ment in Korea. The rather do they welcome all such excite- 
ment. 

The truth of this last remark is amply illustrated by the 
treatment given to the " Pagoda Incident" one of the 
"flagrant wrongs" done to Korea by the Japanese which was 
on the carpet during our entire stay of two months in the 
land. Viscount Tanaka, who is described as "an ardent 
virtuoso and collector," while visiting in Seoul was ap- 
proached by a Japanese curio dealer with the suggestion that 
he might add to his collection the ancient but neglected 
pagoda then situated near Song-do. Mention of the matter 
was made to the Korean Ministers of the Interior and of the 
Household, and their approval obtained; and through them 
the sanction of the Emperor was gained for its removal, as a 
present to his distinguished guest. The actual work of the 
removal was committed to the dealer who made the un- 
fortunate suggestion, and who executed his job "with his 
characteristic skill and audacity." Previous to its removal 
this relic of former grandeur had for a long time been wholly 




The Stone-Turtle Monument. 



WRONGS: REAL AND FANCIED 385 

neglected by the Korean Government and was, in fact, in 
process of destruction by the Korean people, who were in the 
habit of removing bits from it to use as medicine. At once, 
however, a storm of indignant protest broke out; not, indeed, 
among the Koreans left to themselves so much as on the part 
of the "foreign friends" of Korea in their English papers and 
foreign correspondence. The Viscount was called by terms 
applicable to a common thief; the "robbery of the Pagoda," 
the "rape of the Pagoda," the plunder of this "precious 
religious relic" of Korea's former grandeur, was deplored 
and abjurgated in the most extravagant terms. The Em- 
peror doubtless chuckled; for while he cared little for the 
Pagoda, he cared much for the discredit which the taking 
away of it brought upon the Japanese. The unwise act was 
virtually disowned by the Residency- General (Marquis Ito 
was absent in Japan at the time of its removal), and was 
severely criticised by the Japanese themselves; with the de- 
parture of Mr. Hulbert for Russia the excitement over this 
act of oppression gave way to more important political affairs . 
Most ludicrous and pathetic but highly characteristic 
of all these popular excitements was, perhaps, that which 
arose through the mere proposal of a subject of debate by 
a Japanese student in Waseda University, Japan : Whether 
the Korean Emperor should not be made a noble of Japan ? 
(Thus implying, of course, his descent from his Imperial 
dignity and the virtual annexation of Korea.) The proposal 
was indeed never adopted, and the debate never took place. 
But the intolerable insult to the Korean students at the 
same university, and to the whole nation of Korea although 
the authorities of Waseda at once rebuked the unfortunate 
student was dwelt upon, and exaggerated, and rubbed into 
the inflamed and sensitive skins of the people, with all the 
vigor which the Korean patriots and their " foreign friends " 
could command. And when some obscure but self -conceited 



3 86 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Japanese official, in Japan and not at all in Korea, published 
a brochure giving fully two-score and more reasons why 
Japan should promptly annex Korea, these same patriots and 
their friends made all the use in their power of this insignificant 
document to stir up sedition and murderous revolt. It was 
the issue of it as a forgery bearing the official authorization 
of the Japanese Government, which caused the excitement in 
Pyeng-yang the story of which has already been told 
(see p. 104 f.). 1 

It is not necessary, however, to multiply instances under 
any of these heads. All classes of wrongs done the Koreans 
by the Japanese important and trivial, real, exaggerated, or 
falsely claimed are fast diminishing and are destined in time 
to be reduced to a minimum. The Korean Central Govern- 
ment is now more genuine, more intelligent, and more 
efficient as distinguished from the mere wilfulness of the ex- 
Emperor than it has ever been before. The reforms possi- 
ble under the Convention of July, 1907, will afford a judiciary 
system and judicial procedure hitherto impossible as respects 
the administration of justice. The control of the local 
magistrate and of the policing of city and country will con- 

1 An occurrence, which might easily have become a much celebrated 
instance of a Japanese attempt at robbery and oppression of the Ko- 
reans, came to the writer's notice in a private but entirely trustworthy 
way. One of the ex-Emperor's real foreign friends was sent for some 
time ago and found His Majesty in a state of intense alarm and excite- 
ment over a plot of the Residency-General which had just been made 
known to him. A certain foreigner had authorized the story that the 
Japanese authorities were trying to purchase three houses owned by a 
Chinese and situated just opposite the Palace, with a view to tear them 
down and erect barracks for the Japanese soldiers on the spot. The 
price offered by the Japanese was 60,000 yen; but if His Majesty 
would furnish 65,000 yen, this friendly foreigner would buy the prop- 
erty for him, and so defeat the nefarious project of the Japanese. 
The Emperor wished at once to borrow the money. It was suggested, 
however, that His Majesty should allow inquiry to be made before 
parting with so much of his privy purse. Whereupon, the following 



WRONGS: REAL AND FANCIED 387 

tribute something quite new in the way of the blessings of 
peace and prosperity to the common people. The reforms in 
the public finance and in taxation will stimulate trade and 
commerce; the industrial and common-school education will 
bring about an economic redemption. And if the teachers of 
morals and religion, both native and foreign, behave with a 
reasonable wisdom and self-control in the future, and with the 
same devotion and enthusiasm which they have displayed in 
the recent years, wrongs will be righted; justice will be done; 
enlightenment will be spread abroad; and the Korea of the 
near future will be a quite different nation from the Korea 
of the long-continued, disgraceful, and distressful past. 

conversation was held between the Chinese owner and the person to 
whom the Emperor looked to procure for him the needed sum: 

"I understand the three houses you own are offered for sale." 

"Well, I do not particularly wish to sell them; but that Frenchman, 
Mr. , has been here and wanted to get them. He said he wished 
to put up a large store in their place." 

"How much do you ask for the houses?" 

"They are worth 13,000 yen; but if any one will take all three of 
them, he may have them for 12,000 yen in cash." 

"Is that so? I understood the Japanese wanted them to build bar- 
racks for their soldiers on the land." 

"I have not heard anything about the Japanese wanting them; it 
was that Frenchman who said he wanted them, to build a store there." 

The benevolent spirit of this enterprising foreign friend is revealed 
more intimately when we learn that he threatened to shoot on the spot, 
if he could only find out who he was, the man that had thwarted his 
plan for this bit of real-estate speculation. The same intention was 
avowed by the American miner against the foreign official of the Korean 
Government whom he regarded as standing in the way of the success 
of the "Poong Poo" Company (see p. 361 f.). 



CHAPTER XVII 

MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES 

AMONG the many vexatious problems occasioned in modern 
times by the increased intercourse of Western nations with 
the Orient, those which arise in connection with the advent 
and development of Christian missions are of no small im- 
portance. In general, in this quarter of the world the diplo- 
mats and business men are upon one side of most of the con- 
troverted questions; the missionaries and their supporters upon 
the other. It is inevitable, and not necessarily discreditable 
to either party, that differences of opinion should exist between 
these two classes as to the best practical answer to some of 
these questions. Those few of the former class, who are 
sincerely and unselfishly interested in moral and spiritual 
things, and in the higher welfare of the world, and the scarcely 
greater number of the latter class who have the spirit of 
knightly gentlemen, a thorough culture, and are also of a wise 
and broad mind, can usually approach very closely to a 
sympathetic understanding of each other, if not toward 
active co-operation. If, however, the diplomat or business 
man, as is so frequently the case, does not like to see the cause 
of religion advancing, because of the sure instinct that its 
success will limit, or stop, many a nefarious or morally 
doubtful practice, then, of course, the support of all who care 
for the higher values must be given to the side of the mis- 
sionaries. On the other hand, if the narrow prejudice, fanat- 
icism, or intellectual and ethical weakness of the teacher of 
foreign religion are seriously interfering with the legitimate 



MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES 389 

practices of diplomacy or commerce, our sympathies can 
scarcely fail to turn in the other direction. Especially is this 
true where such interference tends to produce disturbance of 
the public order and to check genuine political and economic 
reform. Yet in the one case, we cannot forget the injunction 
of the Founder of Christianity to his disciples: "Be ye wise 
as serpents and harmless as doves"; or the rebuke implied 
in the declaration: "The children of this world are wiser in 
their generation than the children of light." In the other case, 
we have ringing in our ears the declaration which so many 
centuries of history have confirmed: "Think not that I 
came to send peace on the earth; I came not to send peace 
but a sword." 

In most cases of prolonged controversy over the -conduct 
of the missionary and the character of his work, there is more 
or less of misunderstanding and of faulty behavior on both 
sides. For missionaries are but men; and like men of all 
other trades, businesses, prof essions, or callings, they have their 
peculiar temptations, their liability to peculiar mistakes, and 
to use the theological term their besetting sins. The past 
and present relations of Christian missions to the Government 
and people of Korea will be the better understood if we 
consider briefly what some of these temptations are. One 
of the most potent, if not important,' is the temptation to 
make a good showing in the matter of statistics. That the 
workman on the field should rejoice in a bountiful harvest 
is not, in itself, a matter for surprise or rebuke; just the con- 
trary is true. Nor is it necessarily prejudicial to the real 
good of the cause, if the home officers and supporters of the 
foreign denominational enterprise implicitly seem to require, 
as a prerequisite to their continued zeal and generous sub- 
scriptions, a fair annual showing as to the increase in the 
number of converts. But especially in Korea at the present 
time, it is quality and not numbers that ought chiefly to be 



3Qo IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

allowed to count. And yet it is numbers and not quality 
which is most reasonably to be expected and most likely 
to be found, for two or three generations to come. 

The paradox involved in the last sentences requires further 
explanation. In her interesting but highly colored and by 
no means altogether trustworthy book on Korea, Mrs. Bishop 
makes the following declarations: "The idea of a nation 
destitute of a religion and gladly accepting one brought by a 
foreigner, must be dropped. The religion the Korean would 
accept is one which would show him how to get money with- 
out working for it. The indifference is extreme ; the religious 
faculty is absent; there are no religious ideas to appeal to, 
and the moral teachings of Confucius have little influence 
with any class." 1 Of these declarations the last is the only 
one which is wholly true. M oral teachings of any kind have 
had little effect hitherto in Korea. Briefly stated, and as 
seen from the point of view afforded through a survey of the 
history of man's religious experience and of the progress of 
Christian missionary enterprise, the condition of the Korean 
people is this. They are a nation by no means indifferent 
to religion, or destitute of religious faculty and religious ideas. 
But the religion almost universally prevalent has been for 
centuries a low form of spiritism largely, devil-worship. 
Even Korean ancestor-worship, unlike that in Japan, is still 
almost exclusively motived and characterized by super- 
stitious and degrading fears rather than by the spirit of 
reverence, loyalty, and affection. Among the so-called 
civilized nations of the world there is probably not another 
where the prevalent native religion is of a more depressing 
and degrading character than in Korea. 

Now it is an experience very easy to explain from the 
psychological point of view that where the other elements of 
"uplift" begin to work powerfully among a people of a low 

1 Korea and Her Neighbors, by Isabella Bird Bishop, p. 64. 



MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES 391 

form of religion, any imported religious faith and worship 
which seems to offer help to, or to be in conformity with, this 
work, may speedily secure the adherence of great multitudes 
of the people. In Korea, for example, there is absolutely no 
religion to compete with an imported Christianity. There is 
no developed Confucianism as there is in China; no re- 
formed or reflectively elaborated Buddhism, as there is in 
Japan; no refined religious philosophy and complicated 
caste system as there is in India. Any kind of ferment in the 
ancient but deplorably sad and oppressive conditions of the 
popular life will inevitably, therefore, prove favorable to the 
rapid spread of a modern and improved form of religion. 
For the people must have some religion ; and in Korea, what 
is there to rival, for what it promises and performs, the 
religion of the American and English missionaries? It is 
this kind of nation which, so far as statistics that can boast 
millions of converts are concerned, may under favorable 
conditions be "born in a day." At the .same time, how- 
ever, it is this kind of nation whose multitude of converts 
will almost surely fail to apprehend or to appreciate the really 
important things about the new faith which they hasten to 
profess. It is this kind of nation that most needs, through 
three or more generations, the solid work of education, and 
the purifying process of severe discipline, in order to secure 
the genuine spirit and true practice of the religion of Christ. 
Education and prolonged moral discipline are imperative for 
the establishment ^of a trustworthy Christian population in 
Korea. Here the necessity for careful sifting and severe prun- 
ing is exaggerated beyond most precedents, because of the 
undoubted fact that the underlying motives for a first ad- 
herence to Christianity are, in a large percentage of the so- 
called converts, economic and political rather than moral and 
spiritual. And, indeed, how.can the Korean common people, 
with their low intellectual, material, and moral ideals, rise en 



392 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

masse from the condition of superstitious and immoral devil- 
worshippers to the faith and practice of a pure Christianity ? 
The most fundamental conceptions of God, of Christian 
duty and Christian character, of the spiritual life, and of the 
Divine relations to man, are as yet almost totally lacking. 
If the number of recent converts in Korea furnishes just cause 
for hope and rejoicing, the character of these converts and 
of their environment gives also cause for foreboding. 

Closely connected with this temptation is another which is 
less obvious and therefore more subtle and dangerous. It 
is the temptation to a wrong which has done more by far than 
all the heresies to disgrace and damage the Christian Church 
during the centuries of its history. This is the temptation, 
even unconsciously, to make use for one's self, or for one's 
converts, of the "double ethical standard." Neither in 
Korea nor elsewhere can the missionary permit himself to 
be betrayed into words and conduct which he would con- 
sider unworthy of a " heathen" gentleman; or allow his dis- 
ciples, without rebuke and discipline, in the practice of the 
very vices for which he despises the Japanese or Chinese 
coolie or tradesman. There are no two standards of moral- 
ity one for the American or English teacher of religion and 
another for the Korean or Japanese official; one for the priest 
and anotner for the layman; one for the Korean confessor 
and another for the foreign oppressor. It is true that for a 
long time to come great discretion and much leniency must 
be shown toward the Korean convert who continues in the 
beliefs, or who relapses into the practices, of the low-grade 
spiritism out of which he emerged when he became a Chris- 
tian adherent. It is not impossible, however, that there has 
been up to the present time too much of praise and too little 
of rebuke and instruction meted out to the " adherents" of 
Christianity in Korea. Indulgence in the vices of lying, dis- 
honesty, intrigue, avarice, impurity, and race-hatred, cannot 



MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES 393 

be condoned by a display of amiability. Flagrant cases of 
sexual misdemeanors h^ye, indeed, in comparatively few 
cases been made subjects for the severer discipline. But the 
prophetic voice, raised unmistakably in evidence of the high 
standard of morality characteristic of "the religion of Christ" 
is required under all such circumstances as those which 
prevail among the Korean Christians thousands of whom, 
during the religious awakening of the winter of 1906 and 
1907, confessed to having lived for years in the habitual 
practice of the vices enumerated above. 

All of this, and even more of similar experiences connected 
with the planting and growth of Christian missions in Korean 
soil, is by no means necessarily discreditable to the mission- 
aries themselves. On the contrary, much of it is inevitable; 
it is the same thing which has been the accompaniment of 
the early stages of Christian propagandism in all ages, when 
conducted in the midst of similar conditions. So-called 
"conversions" may be rapid; the process of selection and the 
labor of instruction and edifying follow more slowly, in due 
time. The lower the existing religious condition of the 
multitude, when the higher form of religion appeals to them, 
the more prompt and extensive is the religious uplift of this 
multitude; but the larger the number of the converts, the 
more need of discretion and diligence for the process of im- 
proving their quality. It is a reasonable hope that the same 
workmen who have in the main proved so successful in the 
one form of Christian work will prove equally successful in 
the somewhat different work which the future development 
of Christian institutions in Korea imposes upon them. 

There is another form of temptation against which it is 
much easier for the religious propagandist to guard, but 
which has been rather unusually strong and pervasive in 
the recent history of Korean missions. This is the tempta- 
tion to underestimate, or even despise, the auxiliaries which 



394 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

are offered by an improved condition of tne material, legal, 
and educational facilities to the more definitively religious 
uplift of the people. The missionary can contribute the 
share of religion to progress and reform; and he can make 
that a large share. But it is safe and wise for him not to 
under-estimate or despise the support of the civil arm. Korea 
is to-day, as has been already shown in detail, a land un- 
blessed by any of the institutions of a prosperous and equi- 
table civil government of the modern Christian type, estab- 
lished and fostered by its own ruling classes. The multitude 
of its people are even more than its rulers incapable of taking 
the initiative in founding such institutions. The dawning 
of the very idea of good government has scarcely as yet risen 
upon them. 

Early Christianity was propagated in the Roman world 
largely by making available for its uses the means furnished 
by the Roman Empire. And the early Christians were ex- 
pressly enjoined to welcome all the support offered from, 
and to offer their support to, whatever was good and helpful 
in the existing civil government. It is then a conceit which 
is unwarranted by the history of the Christian church that 
makes the missionary think, by ''preaching the Gospel" to 
effect all which is necessary toward reforming a nation in the 
condition of Korea at the present time. Moreover, the 
claim that it was Christianity especially in the form of a 
so-called preaching of the Gospel which, unaided by other 
historical and moral forces, gave to the Western world its 
"democratic" advantages, is no longer tenable. The ex- 
perience with Coptic Christianity in Egypt, with Armenian 
Christianity in Western Asia, with the Greek Church in 
Holy Russia, and with Roman Catholicism in Spain and 
South America (not to mention other notable examples) con- 
tradicts this claim. In Korea itself it is not the Christian 
Missionary who is building railways, making harbors, plant- 



MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES 395 

ing light-houses, devising a legal code, introducing a sound 
currency, and attempting the task of reforming the finances, 
the judiciary, the police, and the local magistracy. Even 
granted that he is setting at work moral and spiritual forces 
which will ultimately bring to pass all these public benefits, 
it would take five hundred years for Korea without foreign 
assistance from other forms of civilizing energy, to secure 
these benefits. It is with no intention to depreciate the 
work of missions in Korea that attention is called to this 
obvious fact; its workmen had very unusual opportunities 
to assist in improving the moral character of the Emperor, 
the late Queen, the Court, and the other officials; and yet 
they signally failed in this regard. Nor could they, unaided 
by the civil arm of foreign powers, accomplish much toward 
relieving the miserable and oppressed and immoral conditions 
of living prevalent among the common people of Korea. 
Just here, however that is, in the sphere of moral and 
spiritual influence upon personal character, whether of 
prince or peasant is where the influence of religion 
ought to show itself supreme. The " purification " of 
Korea required, and still requires, the firm, strong hand of 
the civil power. We cannot, then, credit any such sentiment 
as that expressed in the following statement : 1 " The influence 
of Christianity, so largely and rapidly increasing in the 
country, holds out a better prospect of spontaneous reform 
than the outside, violent interference of a money-grabbing 
and hated heathen enemy." In answer to every such ex- 
pression of sentiment, the protestation of the Resident- 
General has been perfectly clear; and as fast and as far as 
his influence could make itself felt, the conduct of affairs has 

1 Quoted from an anonymous letter, signed "Foreigner," and pub- 
lished in the Seoul Press, date of August 6, 1907. The spirit of this 
passage is characteristic of the entire letter, which was nearly a column 
long, and which was, alas! written by a missionary. 



396 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

confirmed the protestation: "It is Japan's honest and sin- 
cere purpose to make of the Koreans a self-reliant and re- 
spectable people. Let there be an end, then, to the malign 
and mischief-making efforts to alienate the Koreans from 
those who to-day are through the sure work of History 
charged with responsibility for this nation. " * 

It would seem, then, that prompt, open, and hearty co- 
operation with all the efforts, of every kind, made by the 
Japanese Protectorate to lift up the Korean people is the 
only truly wise and Christian policy on the part of the mis- 
sions in Korea. 2 

How far the Korean missionaries have yielded to these and 
other temptations and have behaved unwisely toward the 
Japanese Government and before their Korean converts, it 
is not our purpose to discuss in detail. And yet we cannot 
avoid all reference to this delicate and unwelcome theme. 
Wholesale charges of political intrigue and other unbecoming 
conduct directed against the Residency-General have been 
met by emphatic and equally wholesale denials especially 
during the troubled times of 1906 and 1907. The charges, 
on the one hand, have been made not simply by an irre- 
sponsible Japanese press, but by several of the more reputa- 
ble and generally trustworthy of its papers. On the other 
hand, all similar charges are met by Bishop M. C. Harris 3 

1 Editorial in the Seoul Press, August 8, 1907. 

2 In this connection it should be remembered that the Young Men's 
Christian Association in Seoul is heavily subsidized by the Residency- 
General in recognition of its services for the good of the Koreans; that 
Marquis Ito sent a message of welcome, accompanied by a gift of 
10,000 yen, to the "World's Christian Student Federation" at its meet- 
ing in April, 1907, in Tokyo; and that His Excellency has taken all 
possible pains to assure the Christian missionaries in Korea of his 
desire for their active co-operation, by use of the moral and spiritual 
forces which they wield, with his plan to use the allied economic and 
educational forces, for the betterment of the Korean nation. 

3 Letter to the Japan Times, published, Tokyo, May 9, 1907. 



MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES 397 

with the assurance " because of full knowledge of the sit- 
uation in Korea covering the space of three years," "that 
no American missionary has been identified with political 
movements," . . . but that "in all the far-reaching plans 
of the Residency- General to promote the welfare of Korea 
and Japan as well, the missionaries are in hearty accord." 
Yet again, on the other side, repeated representations of a 
quite opposite character to that of Bishop Harris have fre- 
quently appeared, both in letters and papers, in the United 
States and in England. 

The exact truth is with neither of these contentions; to 
appreciate it one must bear in mind the difficult situation in 
which the missionaries in Korea have been placed. All the 
wrongs (as their story has been told in the last chapter), 
real or fancied, important and trivial but true, or important 
and trivial but falsely alleged, have been appealed to them by 
their Korean converts and also by Korean adventurers, with 
claims for sympathy and for assistance. What was said of the 
Cretans in old times may be said of the Koreans to-day: 
they are liars quite generally. Even when they do not intend 
deliberately to deceive, they find it impossible to refrain from 
gross exaggeration. On the other hand, the missionaries, 
where their sympathies are wrought upon by their own chil- 
dren in the faith all the more on account of the mental and 
moral weakness of .those children are apt to be over- 
credulous, and are not always sane in judgment or prudent 
in conduct. These virtues are perhaps too much to expect; 
perhaps they are not even the appropriate virtues for a 
Christian woman when one of her own sex exposes bruises 
which she alleges to have been inflicted by the hands of a 
"heathen coolie." At such moments it is not easy to re- 
member the deeds of her own countrywomen in the South, 
or of her own countrymen in San Francisco, in the Philip- 
pines, or in South Africa. 



398 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Furthermore, it cannot be truthfully claimed that none of 
the missionaries have ever meddled in politics with a view 
to injure the Japanese Government in Korea. It was, in 
fact, an American missionary who, after one of his colleagues 
upon the mission field, while expressing his sympathy with 
the Korean Emperor, had refused to send a secret telegram 
asking for interference from the President of the United 
States, did send such a telegram; and when sternly rebuked 
by the diplomatic representative of his own nation for con- 
duct so unbecoming to his profession, he replied with an 
assertion of the .right to do as he pleased in all such matters. 
Others have, from time to time, allowed themselves to be 
used by the more wily Korean, whether un-Christian official 
or Christian convert, so as to involve themselves in implied 
complicity with political intrigues. If it is a mistake or 
even worse than a mistake to circulate reports of evil with- 
out examination into their accuracy, and to allow in all one's 
attitude toward the powers that be, unverified suspicions and 
secret hostilities to dominate, then a considerable number of 
the missionary body in Korea must plead guilty in the past 
to this mistake. But most of all has this body suffered from 
its failure to disavow and practically to dissolve all connection 
with those other " foreign friends" of Korea who have during 
the past few years brought upon her Emperor and her people 
much more of misery and of harm than, has been wrought by 
all the irresponsible and disreputable Japanese adventurers 
taken together. 

A marked improvement, however, in the relations between 
the missionaries and the Japanese Government in Korea has 
characterized the treatment of the more recent events. For, 
although there was inevitable a certain intensifying of hostile 
feeling by the uprising and bloodshed that followed the Con- 
vention of July, 1907, the active co-operation of the most 
influential majority of the missionaries in the plans of the 



MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES 399 

Residency- General for the future welfare of the Korean people 
seemed to have been by this time assured. During the 
recent troublous times in spite of charges to the contrary 
they appear to have remained, almost without exception, 
faithful to their true calling and reasonably effective in limit- 
ing or preventing the yet sorer evils that might have followed 
the abdication of the Emperor, the disbandment of the 
Korean army, and the tightening of Japan's grip upon 
Korean internal affairs. With certain, not very numerous, 
exceptions and those mostly among the spurious Christians 
who used the title only as a cover of selfish or foolish political 
aims the converts also acquitted themselves well. The 
Korean Christians and their foreign leaders were favored by 
the Japanese Government with special protection when the 
mad and cruel Korean mob rose up, in veritable ancient 
fashion, to plunder and to murder atrociously, in spots 
favorable to such activity throughout the land. Thus in the 
emergency which, thanks to the wisdom of both kinds of re- 
forming and restraining forces, was after all far less great 
than might have been expected, Korea made at comparatively 
small expense a great step forward toward the position of a 
truly civilized and prosperous nation. And if these same two 
forces the economical and judicial, backed by the police 
and the military, and the moral and spiritual force on which 
Christianity relies continue to work in accord, as we may 
hope they will, the full redemption of Korea in [the nearer 
future is assured. 

Of the administrative mistakes which have hindered the 
progress of modern missions elsewhere there appear to have 
been comparatively few in Korea. Among such mistakes, 
perhaps the following two are most important: first, the 
failure to occupy strongly certain strategic centres with mis- 
sionary institutions, and to postpone the occupation of other 
less important places for the work of the trained native helper, 



400 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Bible-reader, evangelist, or pastor; and, second, the rivalries 
and waste of denominational jealousy and exclusiveness. Jn 
Korea, the two cities of Seoul and Pyeng-yang have wisely been 
selected as centres in which to build up a " plant " of Christian 
institutions of various kinds churches, schools, hospitals, and 
seminaries for the training of native assistants. Further, the 
two largest missionary bodies namely, the American Metho- 
dists and American Presbyterians, have worked together with 
admirable respect for each other's rights, and in sincere co- 
operation. 

There is one other matter of policy touching the adminis- 
tration of missions which, in this connection, it is fitting to 
mention, but about which anyone with the views of the 
writer might well hesitate to express publicly an opinion. 
It is true, however, in the judgment of many of the wisest 
friends of missions, that in the Far East the sphere of woman 
in missionary work should be more carefully guarded and 
even restricted. It is impossible to make the inhabitants of 
the Orient, in general, understand the propriety of foreign 
women being on terms of intimacy, even as religious teach- 
ers, with 'native young men. On the other hand, women 
must, as a matter of course, be employed in all the work 
of the most intimate character, and within the home circle, 
which concerns their own sex. It is also true that not a few 
of the most serious difficulties and perplexing cases of friction 
between the missionaries and the diplomats and civil magis- 
trates, when traced to their real origin, are due to the more 
personal and emotional way in which matters of public 
interest are regarded by the gentler sex. The legitimate 
work of foreign Christian women in the Far East is invalu- 
able; but it should be private and confined, for the most 
part if not exclusively, to intercourse with native girls and 
women. In all administrative affairs, and in general where 
the missions come into closest contact with the civil authori- 



MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES 401 

ties; it is better to-day, as it was in the days of early Christi- 
anity, that her voice should not be heard. 

The recent history of the planting and growth of Christian 
missions in Korea shows a period of bloody persecution which 
was followed, less than a score of years later, by a period of re- 
markably rapid increase. In 1707 some French priests from 
Peking visited the northern border of the peninsula, but were 
unable to enter the country. It was three-quarters of a 
century later (1783) that Thomas Kim, a Korean youth who 
had been converted to Christianity under the Portuguese 
bishop, Alexandria de Gloria, came over from China and 
succeeded in introducing the foreign religion into his native 
land. A year later a royal decree was issued against Chris- 
tianity, and Thomas Kim was executed for his faith's sake. 
But, although two other Korean Christians who had been 
baptized in Peking were beheaded in Seoul, December 8, 
1791, the new religion began to spread rapidly in Korea. 
The usual course of such efforts was being run: others were 
executed, a new edict in 1802 was issued against Christianity, 
and yet, "this added much to the knowledge of the faith." 
In 1836, Pierre Maubant, the second Papal nominee to the 
post of Vicar Apostolic of Korea, reached Seoul after an 
arduous journey; and when three years later still another 
murderous edict was issued, this Christian Apostle and the 
two other French missionaries who had subsequently joined 
him, under instruction from one of the three, Bishop Imbert, 
surrendered themselves to martyrdom in the hope of staying 
the persecution of their Korean converts. Still Christianity 
continued to grow in the number of its adherents; and by the 
year 1860, the foreign religion counted nearly 20,000 native 
converts. Then began, in the early part of 1866, the infamous 
slaughter of the faithful under the Tai Won Kun, the father 
of the "amiable" ex-Emperor, and the man "with the bowels 
of iron and the heart of stone." Within some five years 



402 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

about one-half of the entire number of converts had paid the 
penalty with their lives. 

It is not well to forget these facts of history in connection 
with our estimate of the character of the Korean Government, 
the Korean people, and the development of Christian Missions 
in Korea. Under the son of this cruel father, the late Em- 
peror, precisely the same thing might have taken place at 
any time, had it been for his interests, in his own sight, to 
have it so; and had it not been for his fear of the conse- 
quences, after foreign control began to exercise some restraint 
over native cruelty. It is foolish to suppose that the religion 
or the life of the Protestant missionary, for example, who has 
served the ex-Emperor as physician, are any dearer to His 
Majesty than were the religion and the services of the French 
Roman Catholic priests to the Tai Won Kun. The first 
thing, indeed, which the earlier treaties with foreign nations 
demanded as their right was the "free exercise of their 
religion in the treaty ports for the subjects of the signatory 
Powers; nor to this day does any article, expressly 1 sanction- 
ing missionary enterprise, appear in any of the treaties." 
That the Emperor, when freed from the influence of the Tai 
Won Kun, was in his youth somewhat sincerely inclined to a 
more liberal policy toward foreign religions is undoubtedly 
true; but almost as undoubtedly, that his kindness toward 
American missionaries has been from a purely political 
motive and that his use of them has been, not at all to learn 
the truths of the Christian religion, but to discover through 
them new and improved methods of soliciting and procuring 
"help" from so-called Christian nations. 

In recent years, moreover, repeated instances have occurred 
of the indisposition or inability of the Korean Government to 
protect either the foreign missionaries or their native converts. 

1 See Problems of the Far East, by the Hon. George N. Curzon, M.P, 
(1894), pp. 192-197. 



MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES 403 

During the second Tong Hak uprising in the South, in May 
of 1894, the American missionaries were called into Seoul 
for their safe protection. The Chinese army in Korea during 
the Chino- Japan war was everywhere a source of terror to 
the foreign preachers of Christian doctrine and to their 
avowed Korean converts; and in July of 1894 a French 
priest was murdered by Chinese soldiers at Kong Hyen, near 
Asan. On the contrary, both the foreign and the native 
Christians felt quite free from anxiety when the troops of 
Japan were in control of Korean territory. The spirit of the 
official classes toward the foreign religion was revealed in 
clear light when the Korean Minister of Education, in October 
of 1896, issued a book entitled "The Warp and Woof of 
Confucianism," which was so offensive that it was objected to 
by the Foreign Representatives in a body as being disrespect- 
ful to them. In general, the capricious favors of an unscrupu- 
lous monarch, who would readily and even gladly deliver to 
death those whom he has tried to make, whether with success 
or not, his tools to help carve a way through confining sur- 
roundings, are a poor substitute for a system of law and 
justice, as a soil into which to pour the seed of Christian truth. 
There are said now to be thousands of native Roman- 
Catholic Christians scattered about in the country of Korea. 
Many of the priests, who are natives, live with their converts ; 
but it is the policy of the Church to have every one of its 
members visited once in each year by his spiritual father. 
The French Catholic Cathedral (dedicated May 29, 1898) 
and establishment is one of the most conspicuous objects in 
Seoul. The archbishop in charge is an intelligent, kindly, and 
devout man. While speaking with mild disapproval of the 
treatment received by his converts a year or two before the 
arrival of the Resident- General, and expressing his fear that 
the Koreans might inevitably be driven to the wall by the 
multitudinous incoming of a sturdier and more aggressive 



464 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

race, he gratefully admitted the marked improvement in con- 
ditions which Marquis Ito was bringing to pass. To " the 
Church," however, all political institutions were indifferent : 
Her work remained ever one and the same, and ever equally 
secure. 

The story of Protestant missionary enterprise in Korea 
since the arrival, in June, 1883, on a tour of inspection, of 
Dr. R. S. McClay, has been frequently told. It need not be 
repeated here; for the purpose of this chapter is only to sketch 
in barest outline the relations existing between the reforms 
planned by the Residency- General and the welfare of Korea 
as depending upon the progress of the Christian religion there. 
General Foote, who was then United .States Minister, pre- 
sented to the Emperor a statement of the object of the pro- 
posed mission which, it was understood, would be encouraged 
to work most acceptably along medical and educational 
lines. The summary of what has actually been accomplished 
along these particular lines has already been given (Chap. 
XIV). Acting on the suggestion of Dr. McClay, the Board 
of Missions of the Methodist Episcopal Church in the 
United States sent out two missionaries, one a graduate of the 
College of Physicians and Surgeons in New York City (Dr. 
Scranton, who, after a long and useful service as a missionary, 
has recently been made a Professor in the Government 
Medical School), and the other a graduate of Drew Theolog- 
ical Seminary, Mr. Henry Gerhardt Appenzeller. Before 
these gentlemen reached Seoul the bloody events of 1884 had 
taken place. In 1887 followed Rev. George Heber Jones; and 
in the same year Rev. Franklin Ohlinger was transferred from 
China to Korea. Other helpers were added to this mission, 
as the demands of the work grew, until the report for 1907 
shows that forty-two foreign members and thirty-five Korean 
preachers, ten of whom are ordained, are engaged under its 
auspices in the work of propagating Christianity on Korean 



MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES 405 

soil. In recent years the more visible signs of success have 
greatly increased. The summary of statistics presented 
before the Korean Mission Conference at its session of June, 
1906, was as follows: Full members, 2,810; probationers, 
9,981; Sunday Schools, 116, with teachers and scholars 
numbering 8,943. But only a year later, the total connection 
of the Church of this denomination in Korea was given at 
23,453 of which 19,570 were probationers a gain over the 
preceding year of 10,664, or nearly one hundred per cent. 
During the same year 3,553 persons had been baptized. 

It was on April 5, 1885, that Rev. H. G. Underwood .of the 
American Presbyterian Mission arrived and "formally 
opened Protestant clerical mission work." He was followed, 
on June 2ist of the same year, by J. W. Heron, M.D., who 
died in Seoul, July 26, 1890. To this mission other workmen 
were added from time to time; and in November of 1892 a 
mission of the Southern Presbyterian Church of America was 
started by Messrs. Junkin, Reynolds, and Tate, and a Miss 
Davis. Still later, on September 7, 1898, three clergymen of 
the Canadian Presbyterian Church Messrs. Foote, McRae, 
and Dr. Grierson arrived to open a mission of this denomi- 
nation. These several Presbyterian missions have been, on 
the whole, well supported from the churches at home, well 
manned, and more than ordinarily successful in planting and 
upbuilding the various classes of missionary institutions. 
The table compiled from the council statistics of these 
missions for the year -ending June 30, 1906, makes the follow- 
ing exhibit of results. The total number of missionaries was 
then 77, of whom 41 were women, and 12 were engaged in 
medical work. The native helpers numbered 373, of whom 
8 1 were unordained preachers, and 201 teachers (men), with 
42 Bible women and women teachers. The fruits of these 
laborers were 20 fully organized churches and 628 out- 
stations, or places of "regular meeting," of which 481 were 



4 o6 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

put down as " entirely self-supporting." Connected with them 
were 12,546 communicants, of which 2,811 had been ad- 
ded during the year, and 44,587 "adherents," with 11,025 
"catechumens" and 36,975 members of the Sunday Schools. 
The average attendance upon these regular meetings was 
35,262; and the total of native contributions was $27,418.89, 
as reckoned in United States gold. When the poverty of the 
average Korean Christians and the difficulties of various 
kinds which hinder them from the regular discharge of any 
of their obligations are considered, this showing of attendance 
at church services and of liberality in giving cannot be 
pronounced otherwise than remarkable. The increase in 
every form of work since the report, the statistics of which 
have just been quoted, is no less remarkable in the Presby- 
terian Missions than in that of the Methodist Episcopal 
Church. 

These two American missions are, among those of the Prot- 
estant churches, much the most active and successful in 
showing such results as can take the form of a statistical 
exhibit. But other missionary enterprises are worthy of 
mention. In September of 1890 Bishop Corfe (whose 
diocese was Korea and Shing-king, i. e., Manchuria) arrived 
at Seoul to establish a Church of England Mission. He was 
preceded by Dr. Julius Wiles, Deputy Surgeon-General 
Retired, who opened medical work for the mission and who 
was succeeded in 1893 by Dr. E. H. Baldock. With the addi- 
tional help of other clergy and lay helpers, and of sisters of 
St. Paul's, Kilburn, the customary forms of church work 
evangelizing, translating and printing a Korean prayer- 
book and other publications, hospital work and care of 
the poor and sick have been undertaken with that rare 
good sense and self-denial which characterize so much of 
the missionary enterprise of this Church. 

It was not until 1899, in the month of January, that the 



MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES 407 

Russian Church Mission arrived in Seoul. It consisted of the 
Rev. Deacon Nicholas; and he was followed by the Right 
Rev. Archimandrite Chrisanff and Mr. Jonas Levtchenke, 
Psalmist, on February 12, 1900. The dwellings and school- 
houses for this mission were established near the West 
Gate and were first occupied in the summer of the same 
year. 

No complete account or just estimate of the Christian forces 
now at work for the religious and moral uplift of Korea could 
be given without emphasizing the presence and fine progress 
of the Young Men's Christian Association at Seoul. The 
operations of this association did not begin until November 
of 1901. Their work has been much embarrassed in the 
country places by the illicit use of their name to cover and 
commend various unwise and sometimes corrupt and danger- 
ous attempts at so-called " reform," or even at sedition and 
revolution. In Seoul itself where is the only legitimate and 
recognized Y. M. C. A. some of their make-believe or would- 
be friends have done their good cause much more of damage 
than has been done by any of their avowed enemies. In 
spite of these embarrassments, however, and of others to which 
fuller reference need not be made in this connection, the 
work of this benevolent association has been most successful. 
As we have already said, the value of this work for the 
moral, industrial, and educational reform of the Koreans has 
been officially recognized by a generous subsidy from the 
Government. Its efficiency and extent cannot fail to be 
greatly increased when its new building, so commodious and 
centrally located, has been in use for a number of years. 
The writer gratefully acknowledges that during his visit in 
April and May, of 1907, it was largely through the manly 
courage and good sense of its foreign officers, and of that 
portion of its native official and other membership which 
followed the lead of these foreign officers, that he was able 



4 o8 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

to leave any impression upon the Korean Christians. Indeed, 
in the capital city, no other means were found for even saying 
a private word to the Koreans in behalf of education, morals, 
or religion. It was only when away from the pernicious influ- 
ences of the Court notably at Pyeng-yang that the courage 
of the missionaries seemed sufficient to sustain a platform for 
such efforts, on the part of the guest of Marquis Ito, in the 
churches themselves. 1 

The "Great Revival" of 1906-1907, which added so 
much to the encouragement of the missionaries and to the 
number of their converts, can best be understood in its most 
characteristic features when viewed in the light of what has 
already been said about the nature of the Koreans themselves. 
After a period of silent and slow preparation, a sudden seizure 
of the impulse to repent and confess came upon the entire 
body of native Christians, and even carried away the foreign 
teachers and preachers also. Night after night, and several 
times each Sunday, the churches were crowded to suffoca- 
tion with hearers of their strange words, and witnesses of their 
unwonted actions. Especially at Pyeng-yang did the people, 
both Christian and non-Christian, flock in from the surround- 
ing country first to "look-see," perhaps, and then to partici- 
pate in these extraordinary performances. In numerous 
instances, the penitent rose with an appearance of enforced 
calmness and began quietly to tell of the sinful experiences 
of the years both preceding and following his adoption of the 
Christian name. But as he proceeded his excitement grew; 
his voice rose to a higher and yet higher pitch and assumed 
a tone of ever-increasing shrillness; sobbing and wailing in- 
tervened; and, finally, he began to sway to and fro, to beat 
his head against the mats, sometimes so violently as to cause 
the blood to flow; then he fell to the floor, where he ended 
his experiences in a complete nervous collapse and lay pros- 

1 Compare the narratives of Part I, pp. 37-64; 90-111. 



MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES 409 

trate, frothing at the mouth and groaning piteously,or became 
quite unconscious. 

What may be considered as an official account by an eye- 
witness of two of these remarkable^ meetings gives the follow- 
ing description of the phenomena: 

All were prostrate on their faces, and all alike, with the excep- 
tion of the few who liad already received a blessing, were in an 
agony of repentance. Sometimes they beat their foreheads and 
hands against the floor, sometimes they literally writhed in an- 
guish, roaring as if the very devils were tearing them; and then 
at last, when there seemed no more power of resistance left, they 
would spring to their feet and with terrible sobs and crying, pour 
out their confessions of sin. And such confessions! It was like 
hell uncovered. Everything from murder, adultery, and the most 
inconceivable abominations of uncleanness, through arson, drunk- 
enness, robbery, thieving, lying, down to hatreds, spites, and 
envyings, was emptied out, a,nd with what shame and loathing! 

At the meeting of the second evening, before even the leader 
took his place, the tide of prayer began rising, and although three 
young men arose one after another, and attempted to lead in 
prayer, their voices were not heard in the tumult of intercessory 
supplication that broke out. As prayer continued the building 
began to resound with groans and cries. Many fell forward on 
their faces and wallowed on the floor. When something like a 
semblance of order could be restored, an opportunity was given to 
all who had any ill-feeling toward any one present, or who had 
wronged any of the others in any way, to make confession and 
ask forgiveness. In a very few minutes the meeting was resolved 
into numberless groups of students weeping in each other's arms. 
Nor did the members of the faculty escape; and it was interesting 
to see them, with perhaps two or three boys weeping at their 
knees, and others hanging about their necks. 

In the later stages of the revival, those who went to mock 
remained to be carried away by the same impulse ; and when 
they were exhorted by the foreign or native helpers, either 



4 io IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

at their place, wedged in among the others (for the Korean 
audiences sit packed together on the floor), or were dragged 
or helped forward to the altar, they experienced the relief and 
happiness of "being converted." 

From the principal centres of this religious movement it 
spread to surrounding places sometimes through those who 
returned home from these centres, sometimes through 
delegates sent out from the same centres. One of the most 
remarkable of the latter cases was the experience of the 
delegates deputed from Pyeng-yang to visit Chemulpo. At 
first, when the church at the latter place saw the brethren 
from the northern city, heard their tale, and witnessed their 
testimony and procedure, they were greatly alarmed. It was 
even suggested that one of the visiting brethren should be 
put to death as an emissary of the devil, if not a devil him- 
self. But the zeal of the preachers from Pyeng-yang 
finally triumphed; and the church at Chemulpo itself be- 
came the scene of similar confessions and convulsions of 
penitence. 

The student of similar phenomena in the past will have 
no difficulty in understanding and appreciating at their true 
value the experiences of the "great revival" in Korea. 
Similar emotional manifestations are common enough on a 
variety of occasions, as well in the Korea of the past as in the 
Korea of to-day. Indeed, at the very time that the native 
Christians of Pyeng-yang were wailing and sobbing, and 
beating their heads on the mats, on account of their sins, the 
multitude of the same city were doing the same things because 
they had been deceived into believing that their Emperor was 
to be dethroned and carried off to Japan. From time 
immemorial, the proper official way to attract the attention 
of His Majesty to any request of his officials, or of the people, 
has been to make somewhat similar demonstrations before 
the palace gates or inside the palace walls. In a word, such 



MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES 411 

is the Korean mode of manifesting any strong emotional 
excitement. 

But to discredit altogether the sincerity of these confessions 
or thje genuineness of the following conversion would be a 
no less grave mistake, from every point of view, than to place 
a specially high value on them because of their abnormal * 
psychological character. It is not strange that the Korean 
populace is Korean still, when it suddenly takes to some new 
kind of reform, or adopts some new kind of religion. Such 
strong and contradictory, and even convulsive, reactions 
characterize the native in his politics, his morals, his religion, 
and his behavior generally. The amiably cruel Emperor, 
the smiling and good-natured but, on occasion, atrociously 
barbarous court official, the peasant who seems as gentle as 
his ox until he turns upon the ox, or upon his neighbor, or 
upon the local magistrate, to tear in pieces, reveal essentially 
the same psychical characteristics. 

But how, it may be asked, as to the kind of Christian 
father or mother, Christian citizen, Christian leader, which 
will be evolved from this multitude of converts ? Here, again, 
the only fair and reasonable answer will avoid the two alike 
tempting but, in the end, disappointing extremes. During 
the writer's stay in Korea, Dr. George Heber Jones, who 
fifteen years before had been barred outside of the gates, 
preached at Kang Wha to a congregation of fifteen hundred 
willing hearers, about one thousand of whom were professing 
Christians. Multitudes in the whole Island were just then 
turning toward Christianity entire schools and, in some 
instances, almost entire villages, were professing the new 
faith. In their burning zeal the converts were even resorting 
to a sort of boycott in order to compel recalcitrants to the 
adoption of this foreign religion. Yet when a colleague of 

1 "Abnormal," i. e., from the point of view of what would be expected 
from minds of a higher degree of culture and of self-control. 



4 i2 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

this missionary, a member of the same mission, was a few 
weeks later urged to baptize some sixty converts in one village, 
he refused to comply with the request in the case of a single 
person, because examination showed that none of the sixty 
had as yet sufficient knowledge of what was really meant by 
proclaiming themselves Christians. 

Here, again, however, the student wise in the things of man's 
religious experience will not depreciate the value of such 
early but ignorant steps, wherever they are taken from a 
motive not too degradedly selfish, toward a higher spiritual 
life. The infancy of the Church in Korea will, as a matter 
of course, be characterized by the infantile condition of the 
Korean mind, united, alas ! with a morality that is far removed 
from the innocence customarily attributed to the human 
infant. But already the later experiences of modern missions 
fully authorizes the expectation that what Roman Catholicism 
earlier did to fit the Koreans for martyrdom under the Tai 
Won Kun, will be much surpassed in what the combined 
efforts of all the Christian institutions now planted in Korea 
will do to fit her children for a nobler and happier life under 
the Japanese Protectorate. 

In fine, the Japanese Protectorate under the present 
Resident-General, and the foreign Christian missionaries with 
their native converts, command the two sources of power 
and influence which must unitedly work for the uplift of the 
Korean nation. That His Excellency, the Marquis Ito, takes 
this view of the matter, he has both by speech and action 
made sufficiently clear. That the majority of the missionary 
body are taking the same view of the same matter is becoming 
every day more clear. If, through any honest difference of 
opinion upon important matters of policy, the leaders of 
these two forces should fail to co-operate in the future, it 
would be deplorable indeed. But if either one of the two 
should, whether through avoidable misunderstanding or 



MISSIONS AND MISSIONARIES 413 

because of the decline in an intelligent and conscientious 
desire for the good of Korea, refuse to co-operate, the refusal 
would be no less of a misfortune; it would be also worthy 
to be called a crime. 



CHAPTER XVIII 

JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 

A TELEGRAM from The Hague to the Orient, bearing date 
of July i, 1907, announced the arrival of three Koreans at 
the place of Peace Conference, and the publication over their 
signatures, in a French paper called The Peace Conference 
Times, of an open letter addressed to the delegates of all the 
Powers. In their letter these men claimed to have been au- 
thorized by the Emperor, in a document bearing his seal, to 
take part in the Conference as the delegates of Korea. In 
this connection they repeated the time-worn falsehoods as 
to the conditions under which the Treaty of November, 1905, 
was signed, and as to the present treatment accorded by the 
Japanese to the ruler and people of Korea. In view of these 
alleged facts they made in behalf of their country an appeal 
for pity and for relief to all the foreign delegates. As was 
inevitable from the beginning, the efforts of this deputation at 
The Hague came to naught; and after the death of one of 
their number they departed to carry on their mission of ap- 
peal, first in England and afterward in the United States. 
So thoroughly discredited, however, had the word of such 
Koreans and of their " foreign friends" already become in 
the hearing of all acquainted with the facts, that the mission 
met with as little real success in these other foreign countries 
as at The Hague. So far as its original purpose was con- 
cerned, it ended in failure miserable and complete. But in 
Korea itself the results were by no means transient or trivial. 

The news of the appearance of the so-called Korean dele- 

414 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 415 

gates at the World's Peace Conference was received in Seoul 
on July 3d. It will be remembered (see p. 83 f.) that to 
quote from the Seoul Press of the next day " when Mr. H. 
B. Hulbert left for Europe under peculiar circumstances, 
there were rumors that he was charged by the Emperor of 
Korea with some political mission to The Hague." This 
paper then goes on to say that it did not attach much im- 
portance to the rumor at the time, being unable to reconcile 
such an enterprise with the reputation for shrewdness of the 
chief foreign commissioner, and also "with the expressions 
of good will and friendship which the Emperor of Korea has 
repeated to Japan and her Representative over and over 
again." But there were even more important reasons why 
the rumor should seem antecedently incredible. No one of 
the present Cabinet, or of the previously existing Cabinet, ap- 
peared to have any knowledge of so serious an affair of 
State; no one of either of these bodies had even been con- 
sulted by His Majesty about the possibility of such an under- 
taking. " Even the best informed did not dream that a step 
so palpably useless and treacherous would be taken." The 
conclusion followed that, if the rumor proved true, the act 
was ascribable to the Emperor alone, as " instigated no doubt 
by the coterie of irresponsible native counsellors and their ob- 
scure foreign coadjutors whose mischievous advice has already 
so often led His Majesty astray." Such a movement was ren- 
dered all the more untimely, not to say unnecessary, because 
under the new Ministry and the wise and kindly leadership of 
the Residency- General, all the foreign and domestic affairs of 
the country were now proceeding in the most orderly and 
satisfactory manner. Whatever ground for protest and ap- 
peal against the treatment of Korea by the Japanese Govern- 
ment may have existed in the past, everything in the situa- 
tion of the spring and early summer of 1907 called for hopeful 
and active co-operation on the part of all forces interested in 



416 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

the welfare of the land. The stirring of the elements always 
ready for riot, sedition, arson, and bloodshed, was, under 
the circumstances, both a folly and a crime. 

On the morning of the same day on which the news of the 
affair at The Hague reached Seoul, the Emperor sent the 
Minister of the Imperial Household to Marquis Ito with a 
message disavowing all responsibility for the delegation and 
for the protest addressed by it to the Peace Conference. 
This was precisely what the delegation had already informed 
all Europe His Korean Majesty would certainly do. But 
then there was their word against the Emperor's word; and 
they claimed that the document in their possession bore the 
Imperial seal. There was, moreover, for the very few who 
knew the circumstances under which the alleged foreign mem- 
ber of the delegation left Seoul, the previous private confession 
of His Majesty made to be sure only after repeated private 
denials. The situation was, therefore, so far as the testimony 
of Koreans went, rather complex. His Majesty was now 
publicly denying what he had formerly, in private, both 
affirmed and denied; his delegates were publicly affirming 
what he was publicly denying, but had previously, in private, 
both denied and affirmed. To the Minister of the Imperial 
Household Marquis Ito replied that, in view of all the cir- 
cumstances which had come to his knowledge not the least 
significant of which was the public declaration of the Im- 
perial sanction, made by the delegation and supported by its 
offer to submit its credentials to the inspection of the Con- 
ference the force of His Majesty's disavowal was weakened. 
At any rate, the situation had now become so grave that the 
only course the Resident- General could pursue was to sub- 
mit the whole matter to his own Government and await its 
decision. 1 

1 With regard to the personnel of the Korean members of this com- 
mission, the head was Yi Sung-sol, who had formerly been a Cabinet 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 417 

The news from The Hague at once provoked a lively dis- 
cussion on the part of the Japanese press and the political 
parties as to the proper treatment of Korea and her Emperor 
for this breach of treaty faith. Meetings were held by the 
leaders of the principal parties to determine the policy which 
should, in their judgment, be followed by the Government; 
and several of the more prominent statesmen allowed them- 
selves to be interviewed for publication of their views upon 
this important national affair. Count Okuma was reported 
as having suggested that His Majesty of Korea, in case he 
had authorized a scheme so lacking in common sense, could 
not be in his right mind, and might, not improperly, be placed 
under restraint. Count Inouye, whose successful manage- 
ment of Korean affairs at the close of the Chino- Japan war 
entitled his judgment to public confidence, thought that if 
the Emperor could be induced, or compelled, to come to 
Japan and see for himself what Japan had done by way 
of recent developments, and what Japan wished to do for 
Korea, he would voluntarily cease from his unfriendly and 

Councillor. With him were associated Yi Chun-yong, a Judge of the 
Supreme Court, and Yi Wi-chong, who was at one time secretary to the 
Foreign Legation at Russia. The two former seem to have taken the 
Siberian route to St. Petersburg, where they arrived about April 2oth, 
and were met there by Yi Wi-chong. The Russian Government, being 
at that time negotiating a treaty with Japan which was to recognize 
in most explicit terms the Japanese Protectorate over Korea, and give 
to it a "free hand" in the management of Korean affairs, naturally 
enough, gave no encouragement to the Koreans or to their "foreign 
friend." 

In view of the large sum of money which, according to rumor at the 
time, the Emperor contributed to this purpose, it seems scarcely credi- 
ble that the Korean delegates should feel compelled at The Hague 
"to stay at a low-class hotel where the meals cost about 50 sen" (or 
25 cents in gold), as the cable despatch reports. No less a sum than 
240,000 yen was subsequently traced to expenditure upon this futile 
scheme; and 100,000 yen additional was suspected on good grounds. 
In addition to this, as the event proved, it cost the Emperor his crown. 



J 



418 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

treacherous policy. 1 Of the political bodies, the Constitu- 
tionalists, or party now in control of the Government, took 
the entire matter most quietly, and expressed itself as entirely 
ready to leave the whole situation in the hands of the Resident- 
General, as advised or instructed by the Tokyo authorities. 
Prime Minister Saionji, to whose cool judgment and quiet 
temper the nation is greatly indebted at all times for allaying 
tendencies to undue excitement, assured the Daido delegates, 
on July 1 2th, that the policy toward Korea had already been 
established and that there was really no need of making 
"much fuss" over the matter. The Progressives, or strong- 
est anti- Government party, took the most vehement position 
of urgency for prompt action and for punitive measures. 
Some of its papers went so far as again to call in question 
the entire policy of Marquis Ito, with its plan for secur- 
ing a peaceful development of Korea under a Japanese Pro- 
tectorate; but only a few called for immediate forcible an- 
nexation. 

On the whole, and considering the great and repeated pro- 
vocations offered to Japan by the Korean Emperor and his 
Government, the Japanese nation kept its temper in a truly 
admirable way. While agreeing that some means must at 
last be found to stop the interference of His Majesty of 
Korea with all attempts to reform internal affairs, and the 
better in the future to control foreign intrigues, the general 
opinion favored strongly an increased confidence in the 
character and policy of the existing Residency- General. 
The situation in Japan itself was faithfully, described as 
follows in the Japan Times, in its issue of July i4th: 

1 It should be understood that the proposal of Count Inouye did not 
contemplate taking the Korean Emperor prisoner and carrying him 
off by force to Japan. It expressed simply the belief on the Count's 
part that the shortest way of making Korea accept Japan's guidance 
was to cause the Emperor to become acquainted with Japan by per- 
sonal observation. 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 419 

The Hague Deputation question continues to attract serious 
attention. The whole Press is practically unanimous in urging 
the adoption of such measures as would effectively prevent the 
recurrence of similar incidents. The matter has also been taken 
up by nearly all the important political parties, and the attitude 
adopted by them is tantamount to an endorsement of the view so 
unanimously expressed through the newspaper organs. Very 
little attempt has been made, however, to point out in a concrete 
form the line of action to be taken. It is evident that, although a 
small section of the Press unfavorably criticizes Marquis Ito's 
leniency in dealing with the Emperor, the important organs of 
opinion have so much confidence in His Excellency's ability to 
cope with the situation with his characteristic wisdom and 
efficiency, that they do not think it necessary to trouble him with 
suggestions at to matters of procedure and detail. 

\ 

The Tokyo Government acted with promptness and de- 
cision in dealing with this latest phase of the everlasting 
Korean problem. On July i6th it was publicly announced 
that the Government had determined to "go along with the 
opinion of the people," and adopt "a strong line of action 
toward Korea." Viscount Hay asm', Minister for Foreign 
Affairs, was forthwith appointed to convey in person the 
views of the Government to His Excellency Marquis Ito, 
and was commissioned with the disposal of Korean affairs 
after consultation with the Marquis on the spot. Hayashi 
bore with him several somewhat different plans, among which 
decision was to be reached after his arrival at Seoul; but all 
of them contemplated leaving the details very largely to the 
Resident- General. It is pertinent to say, with authority, in 
this connection, that none of these plans included, much less 
suggested or required, the abdication of the Emperor; al- 
though, as we have already seen, Marquis Ito had become 
quite conclusively convinced that the reform of Korean 
affairs could never be accomplished with the co-operation of 



420 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

the present ruler of the land, or, indeed, otherwise than in 
spite of his utmost opposition. 

Meantime there was a great stir taking place among the 
members of the different political factions in Seoul. The 
Emperor himself, now that his own foolish treachery had 
been brought to light, was daily becoming more alarmed. 
The Court intriguers of necessity shared in this growing alarm. 
Before the departure of Viscount Hayashi, the Imperial Gov- 
ernment of Japan had received a telegram from Mr. Motono, 
Minister in St. Petersburg, which stated that the new Russo- 
Japanese Convention would recognize Japan's rights in 
Korea even more completely than the Peace of Portsmouth 
) .0- had done. The fact, now made evident to the Korean 
officials, that the backs of all the nations were turned toward 
Mhe verbal and practical falsehpods-ef their Emperor and of 
his intriguing foreigrTTnends, and that the judgment of all 
those wise in respect of Korean history and Korean charac- 
^ . teristics saw no hope for their country except through the 
aid of Japan, tended as a matter of course to deepen this 
alarm. And when the determination of the Japanese Gov- 
ernment to send one of its Cabinet Ministers to Korea, in 
order at once and finally to put an end to Korea's power, in 
treachery, intrigue, and assassination, to work her own woe 
and to jeopard the peace of the Far East, was made known, 
the consternation in Seoul officialdom reached its height. 

The only persons among the Koreans who could be relied 
upon in any measure to save the country from well -merited 
punishment for this last act of insane treachery on the part of 
the Emperor and his Court were the newly appointed Korean 
Cabinet. It was a great piece of good fortune for Korea that 
this Cabinet had previously been appointed and pledged to 
fidelity to the interests of the whole country rather than to 
connivance at His Majesty's intriguing ways. On the whole, 
in this extreme emergency^ the Korean Government behaved 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 421 

wisely, patriotically, and in a way to secure the crown and 
the people against the worst results of the Emperor's policy. 
They began their efforts, indeed, in the vain attempt to dis- 
cover the plans of the Japanese Government through the 
Resident- General and to get His Excellency's advice upon the 
best course of action on their part in order to meet these plans. 
But Marquis Ito refrained alike from indicating the steps 
which would probably be taken by Japan and also from ad- 
vising as to the steps which it was best for Korea to take. 

The Korean Ministers were by this time holding daily 
conferences of several hours in length. The result of these 
conferences was the conclusion on their part that the abdica- 
tion of the Emperor offered the only escape from the direful 
condition in which he had himself placed his country. As 
early, therefore, as an audience on the 6th of July, they 
began collectively and individually to urge upon His Majesty 
the advisability of this step. There is no doubt that they 
gave this advice the more heartily because, apart from the 
present dilemma, they were profoundly convinced that he 
was a bad and dangerous ruler, and that comparatively little 
could be done for the improvement of Korean affairs as long 
as he sat upon the throne of Korea. The occasion was op- 
portune, then, for terminating such weak misrule and 
perversion of Imperial power. 

Viscount Hayashi arrived at Seoul on the evening of July 
1 8th. In the afternoon of the same day Marquis Ito visited 
the Palace at the request of the Korean Emperor. He found 
that His Majesty had no suggestions to make as to the 
solution of the grave problem before the two governments: 
His Majesty continued, however, to disavow the Hague 
delegation and to suggest the severe punishment of its mem- 
bers. 1 The more important reason for the request for this 

1 The mixture of ignorance and craft of which the ex-Emperor is 
capable was illustrated in a humorous way by his inquiry of Marquis 



422 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

interview appeared when the Emperor stated that his Cabinet 
were urging him to abdicate and suggested that he supposed 
they were prompted to do so by Marquis Ito. This the 
Marquis emphatically denied: so far as the Resident- General 
was concerned, the Korean Cabinet were in all respects 
acting on their own initiative. His Excellency was himself 
still awaiting the decision of his own Government at Tokyo ; 
and until that was announced he had nothing to say as to 
what Japan was likely to do. Moreover, since he was not a 
subject of the Emperor of Korea he should refrain from 
advising His Majesty in any way about the matter of his 
abdication. 1 

Meantime the Korean Cabinet continued to press upon the 
Emperor the necessity of his abdication in the interests of the 
country at large. On Wednesday, July lyth, they proceeded 
in a body to the Palace, where His Majesty is said to have 
kept them waiting for their audience with him for nearly 
three hours. At this audience, however, they again explained 
the nature of the present crisis, and again besought him to 
save his country by sacrificing the crown for himself. After 
a prolonged interview they are said to have left the Emperor 
much enraged and still refusing. But on the next day the 
Cabinet Ministers repaired again to the Palace at a quarter 
to five in the afternoon. Before this meeting could be over 
the train bearing the Viscount Hayashi would roll into the 
South- Gate Station. The whole affair was culminating; 
the national crisis was imminent. For more than three hours 

Ito whether the Japanese Government would not undertake the arrest 
and punishment of his own emissaries at The Hague! The reply was, 
of course, that Japan could no more do such a thing in Holland than 
Korea in Japan. 

1 This double policy of soliciting advice and help from Marquis Ito, 
as his most true and powerful friend, while acting contrary to the ad- 
vice when given and rendering the help difficult or impossible, has 
characterized the Emperor throughout in his relations with the Marquis. 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 



423 



the Ministers pressed for their Sovereign's abdication, with a 
most bold and insistent attitude. It was after eleven o'clock 
that evening when the Emperor began to show signs of giving 
way, and ordered summons to be issued to assemble the 
Elder Statesmen. These men soon arrived at the Palace 
and held a secret conference among themselves, during which 
they, too, arrived at the decision that there was really no 
alternative for the Emperor; he should yield to the advice 
of his Ministers; and the throne was at once memorialized 
to this effect. At three o'clock on the morning of the nine-, 
teenth the Emperor agreed to retire in favor of the Crown 
Prince, and a decree announcing this fact was published in/ 
the Official Gazette at a later hour the same morning. 

From about ten o'clock on Thursday night the people began 
to assemble in front of the Palace. By one o'clock in the 
morning of Friday the crowd had become dense and began 
to show threatening signs of a riotous character; but they 
dispersed by degrees without serious incidents, until at dawn 
scarcely one hundred men were remaining in the neighbor- 
hood. Rumors of the Emperor's abdication were spread 
abroad after sunrise; and again the crowd of excited people 
increased in front of the main gate of the Palace and in the 
streets .adjoining. A hand -bill, circulated from the same 
source of so much pernicious misinformation namely, the 
native edition of the Korean Daily News which asserted 
that the Emperor had been deposed and was going to be 
carried off to Japan by Viscount Hayashi, added greatly to 
the popular excitement. The Korean police, under Police 
Adviser Maruyama, however, had the matter well in hand; 
and having been earnestly advised by the Resident- General 
to avoid all unnecessary harshness, they succeeded in dis- 
persing the people with only a few trifling encounters. In the 
work of restoring order and preventing riot and bloodshed, 
the police were doubtless greatly assisted by a timely down- 



, 



424 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

pour of rain. For of all people under the sun it is probable 
that a Korean crowd of men, with their expensive and 
cherished crinoline hats and their lustrous white raiment, 
most object to getting thoroughly wet. Patriotism of the 
intensest heat can scarcely bear this natural process of cooling. 
At 7.15 P. M. on July igth the Korean Minister of Justice 
called on the Resident- General and delivered to him the 
following message from His Majesty: 

In abdicating my throne I acted in obedience to the dictate of 
my conviction; my action was not the result of any outside advice 
or pressure. 

During the past ten years I have had an intention to cause the 
Crown Prince to conduct the affairs of State, but, no opportunity 
presenting itself, my intention has to this day remained unrealized. 
Believing, however, that such opportunity has now arrived, I have 
abdicated in favor of the Crown Prince. In taking this step I 
have followed a natural order of things, and its consummation is 
a matter of congratulation for the sake of my dynasty and country. 
Yet I am grieved to have to observe that some of my ignorant sub- 
jects, laboring under a mistaken conception of my motives and in 
access of wanton indignation, may be betrayed into acts of violence. 
In reliance, therefore, upon the Resident-General, I entrust him 
with the power of preventing or suppressing such acts of violence. 

This appeal to the Residency-General to preserve order in 
Seoul was made in view of events which had occurred earlier 
in the afternoon of the same day. About a quarter to four a 
Japanese military officer on horseback was stopped by the 
mob while passing in front of the main gate of the Palace; 
and when the Japanese policemen in the Korean service 
came to his rescue and attempted to open a path for him 
through the crowd, both they and the officer were more or less 
seriously wounded by stones. The mob, on being dispersed, 
retreated in the neighborhood of Chong-no. Here a party 
of Korean soldiers, who had deserted from the barracks since 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 425 

X 

the previous night, joined the crowds under the command of 
an officer. Soon after five o'clock these soldiers, without 
either provocation or warning, fired a succession of volleys 
upon a party of police officers, killing and wounding more 
than a score; whereupon the fury of the mob broke out anew, 
and several more were killed and wounded on both sides. 
The total number of police officers who lost their lives in this 
way was ten, and some thirty or more others were more or 
less severely wounded. 1 After this dastardly action the 
Korean soldiers ran away. 

As to the unprovoked character of this deplorable incident 
the testimony of eye-witnesses is quite conclusive. Dr. 
George Heber Jones, who was on the spot soon after the first 
sound of firing, says: "In fact all through the excitement 
I was impressed with the moderation and self-control shown 
by the public officers in dealing with the crowds which had 
been surging about them since Thursday night. Their con- 
duct was admirable." After narrating the experiences of 
himself and his companion as they came upon the dead and 
wounded lying in the streets and alleys of the district, the 
wrecked police-boxes and the officers covered with blood, \ 
this witness goes on to say : " The Pyeng-yang soldiers in the 
barracks just north of Chong-no, becoming restive, in the after- 
noon broke into the magazine of their barracks and supplied 
themselves with ammunition. One company of them then 
broke out, and under command it is said, of a captain who 
was mounted suddenly appeared at Chong-no and without 
warning began firing on the policemen who were trying to 
preserve order in the crowds. ... A mania of destructio 

1 It was subsequently reported that the number of Koreans injured 
during the disturbances of this Friday was 210; since the majority of 
these had bullet wounds and the Japanese police were not armed with 
rifles, the conclusion is inevitable that most of these casualties were 
occasioned by the firing upon the crowd of the mutinous Korean sol- 
diers. 



. to / 

ion/' 



426 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

took possession of the people for a time, and there are reports 
of assaults on Japanese civilians in various parts of the city; 
and from what I personally witnessed there is little doubt of 
this, that the scenes of violence which occurred in 1884 were 
repeated yesterday." 1 

As a result of the Emperor's request following upon this 
outbreak of serious disorder, the city of Seoul was put in 
charge of Japanese police and gendarmes. A strong body of 
Japanese troops was posted outside the Palace, and four 
machine guns were placed in front of the Taihan or Main 
Gate. A battalion of infantry was summoned from Pyeng- 
yang, and a squadron of the artillery regiment at Yong-san. 
The riotous outbreaks were now mainly directed against those 
Korean officials who had brought about the abdication of the 
Emperor. Over one thousand rioters assembled near the 
Kwang-song Gate and, after a short debate, proceeded to 
assault and set on fire the residence of the Prime Minister, 
Mr. Yi Wan-yong. In spite of the efforts of the Japanese 
troops and gendarmes, as well as of the fire brigades, a large 
portion of the residence was destroyed. Part of a Korean 
battalion also assaulted the prison at Chong-no, where the 
headquarters of the Japanese police had been established, but 
were driven away. At 6 p. M. of Tuesday, July 23d, a huge 
crowd assembled and "passed resolutions" that at sunset 
the headquarters of the II Chin-hoi, or party most prominent 
in its demand for reforms, should be set on fire, and after this 
several other buildings were marked for destruction. These 
attempts were, however, frustrated; but the villas of Mr. Yi 
Kun-tak and Mr. Yi Chi-yung, the former Ministers of War 
and of Home Affairs, outside the small East Gate, were 


1 These quotations are from the article, the publication of which was 
followed by the incident already narrated (p. 355, note). This ex- 
ample is typical of the temper and methods of the anti- Japanese leaders 
and their foreign friends. 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 427 

burned. Finally, these demonstrations of rowdyism came 
to a point of cessation, and the usual order of Seoul was 
restored. During the period of rioting the Korean crowd 
was, as usual, tolerably impartial in the distribution of its 
favors; in addition to Japanese and Koreans, a few Chinese 
and other foreigners were assaulted or shot at. 

All these events made it entirely obvious, even to the most 
prejudiced observer, that the Korean Government was still 
as incapable of securing and preserving order in -times of 
popular excitement as it has ever been. It could not guar- 
antee the safety of its own officials or of foreigners of any 
nationality, without outside assistance. Unless the controlling 
influence of the Japanese authorities had been exercised, there 
cannot be the slightest doubt that a frightful reign of anarchy 
and bloodshed would have ensued upon the abdication of the 
Emperor; and no one acquainted with the Korean mob, 
when once let loose, will venture to predict how many, and 
whom, 'it might have involved. Thus far these authorities 
had done nothing beyond lending an indispensable support 
and assistance to the Korean Government. They were 
acting wholly in its interests as centralized in the newly 
declared Emperor and in the Cabinet Ministers. One 
other thing, however, was also made equally obvious. The 
Korean army could not be trusted; its continuance as at 
present constituted was an intolerable menace to both 
governments, as well as to the interests of the people at 
large. It was intrinsically worthless for the legitimate pur- 
poses of an army, and dangerous in the extreme as a force 
to provoke and to intensify all manner of lawlessness. If 
it had not been -for the mutinous action of these undis- 
ciplined troops, who became centres of all the forces of 
sedition, arson, and murder, there would probably have 
been little or no bloodshed connected with the events of 
July, 1907. 



428 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

It should not be forgotten that the Korean Ministers were 
influenced by patriotic motives in unanimously and urgently 
demanding the abdication of the Emperor. 1 It imme- 
diately became evident, however, that His Majesty did 
not intend really to abdicate, but that he was continuing his 
old tricks of intrigue, double-dealing, and instigating assas- 
sination. There was well-founded suspicion to quote a 
statement based on trustworthy information that "the 
unfortunate incident of Friday last and the mutinous spirit 
prevailing among the Korean troops were the result of an 
understanding between the ex-Emperor and his abettors and 
supporters in Seoul." There was even proof of a conspiracy to 
have the Korean troops rise in a body, kill the entire Korean 
Cabinet, and rescue from their dominating influence his 
"oppressed" Majesty. Whatever may be the full measure 
of truth as to these and other secret intrigues and plots for 
sedition and murder, certain actions were publicly avowed 
that were unmistakably in open defiance of the new Emperor 
and his Ministers, as well as complete proof that by abdication 
His Majesty meant something quite different from what the 
word was properly held to signify. [This Korean word was 
indeed capable of two interpretations; it was, however, the 
term customarily employed to signify the relinquishment of 
Imperial control and responsibility, while at the same time 
"saving the face " of the person abdicating and often increas- 
ing his real influence for evil] 

At midnight on Saturday, July 2oth, the ex-Emperor 
summoned to the Palace and personally appointed Pak 

1 This is perhaps the place to deny, authoritatively and finally, that 
Marquis Ito procured, counselled, or even gave consent to, the act of 
abdication. Indeed, the members of the Residency- General, and the 
Japanese in Seoul generally, who approved of the more strenuou 
measures to be taken against Korea, regretted to have the abdication 
take place. To use the expression of one of them: "It dulled the edge 
of the Japanese sword " 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 429 

Yong-hio to be " Minister of the Imperial Household." 1 
Upon this Mr. Pak had the impudence to call upon Marquis 
Ito on the following Sunday morning and announce his 
appointment. It is probable that he did not meet with a 
very cordial reception, or succeed well in impressing His 
Excellency with the dignity and value of his new office. 
Not satisfied with this practical retraction of his own deposi- 
tion of Imperial functions, when the Cabinet submitted to the 
Throne for Imperial signature a draft of an edict calling upon 
the people to keep peace and order, the ex-Emperor prohibited 
his son, now the reigning Emperor, from signing it and in- 
sisted that the edict should be issued in his own name. 
In view of all this manceuvering, the Cabinet Ministers spent 
another whole night closeted with the ex-Emperor: they 
emerged from this new contention with a renewed and per- 
fectly positive declaration of abdication. At the same time 
the new Emperor issued over his own name an edict in which 
his subjects were warned against all disloyalty to him, 
and were exhorted to turn their energies, in reliance upon 
his guidance, to the advancement of civilization and of the 
national interests. 

1 It should be understood that this office is the most important and 
influential of all the Korean offices, so far as private transactions with 
the Emperor are concerned. Now Pak Yong-hio, after a life of idle- 
ness and debauchery in Japan, whither he had fled some years before, 
and where he had been supported by the kindness of Japanese and 
Korean friends, had recently been pardoned and allowed to return to 
Korea. In petitioning for permission to return, Pak dwelt in pathetic 
terms on his "home-sickness," and expressly promised in the future to 
refrain from political intrigue. But he had scarcely set foot on the 
soil of Korea before he began a most dishonest and disgraceful course 
of political intrigue. A little more than twenty-four hours after his 
pseudo-appointment as Minister of the Imperial Household, the Cabinet 
Ministers ordered his arrest, and he was subsequently condemned to 
be punished with eighty lashes and banished for life to the Island of 
Quelpart. Such are the vicissitudes of Korean political careers when 
most free from foreign influence! 



430 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Nothing could, of course, be done toward settlement of 
the problem of future relations between the Governments of 
Korea and Japan until public order was restored. But 
speculation was eager and varied as to what would then take 
place: for neither had the Marquis Ito disclosed his views 
upon this subject, nor had the instructions of Minister 
Hayashi been made known to the public. The telegrams 
which came into Seoul from all quarters showed that the 
civilized world, both diplomatic and business, expected the 
out-and-out annexation of Korea by Japan, and the conse- 
quent dethronement of the Imperial house. The Koreans 
themselves expected little less; in addition to this they feared 
the immediate and open humiliation of having the ex-Emperor 
carried off to the enemies' country. Indeed, it was this 
severe calamity which the Korean Cabinet hoped to mitigate 
by procuring His Majesty's abdication. In the same hope 
the most numerous of the several Korean societies of an alleged 
patriotic character the // Chin-hoi, or " All-f or-Progress 
Society" sent in a petition, or "pathetic memorial," to the 
Residency-General. After acknowledging "the policy of 
mildness and conciliation" which had won for His Excellency 
the hearts of the Korean people, the memorial proceeds in 
substance as follows: "The offence which the Emperor has 
committed in connection with the Hague question is great 
as a mountain; His Majesty has been very deficient in having 
a proper sensa-of what he owes to Japan. But what fault is 
there in the people who know nothing about the affair? 
Or what culpability in the land and soil of Korea ? They are 
in no way related to the dynasty of Korea. When we think 
over these things we cannot stop the flow of tears in a thousand 
drops. Your Excellency, we pray you to have mercy on the 
mountains and seas of Korea and to place in a position of 
safety the 20,000,000 souls, the 3,000,000 homesteads, and the 
nation of 500 years." [The customary expedient of Korean 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 431 

rhetoric is to be noted in doubling the number of the popula- 
tion of the peninsula.] 

It has been said of the Japanese that they treat no one else t % 
so generously as their defeated and prostrate enemy. How- 
ever this may be, it is matter of historical truth that after 
some particularly aggravating offence from Korea, what 
Western nations generally would regard as an excess of chival- 
ric and totally unappreciated kindness has quite uniformly 
characterized the treatment accorded to this country by the 
Japanese Government. The Bismarckian policy of " making 
your enemy cough up all you can when you have him by the 
throat" has never been the policy of Japan in dealing with 
the peninsula. And yet, at last, it should have been perfectly 
evident to every true friend of both countries that the Korean 
Government traditionally corrupt, cruel, and regardless of 
the Korean nation must no longer be allowed to stand 
between this nation and the plans for bringing it into an 
improved internal condition and into safer relations with 
foreign Powers. That formal annexation was never con- 
templated by the Tokyo Government became evident when, 
on the evening of July 2ist, a congratulatory telegram was 
received by the new Emperor from His Imperial Majesty, 
the Emperor of Japan. To this telegram a reply was sent 
on the next day, which read, in effect, as follows: "By 
the order of my Imperial father I have ascended the 
throne at this difficult crisis, and being conscious of my 
unworthiness, I am filled with apprehensions. I beg Your 
Majesty to accept my profound thanks for Your Majesty's 
courteous telegram of congratulations. I warmly recip- 
rocate Your Majesty's wishes for still more intimate rela- 
tionship between the two countries and between our Im- 
perial Houses." 

After a number of consultations between Minister Hayashi 
and the Residency- General,, and between the Japanese repre-. 



432 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

sentatives and the Korean Cabinet (who, in their turn, con- 
sulted among themselves and with the new Emperor), at 
noon of Wednesday, July 24th, Marquis Ito handed over to 
the Korean Government a document conveying Japan's 
proposals as the basis of a new Japanese-Korean agreement. 
After the Korean Ministers had again conferred with one 
another, the Premier and the Minister of War, at four o'clock 
p. M. of the same day, had a brief audience with their Emperor. 
Other conferences continued through the whole of this 
memorable night with the result that at a later audience 
Mr. Yi Wan-yong, the Premier, was invested by His Majesty 
with authority to sign the new Convention. It is understood 
that on this occasion, as on that former equally memorable 
night in November of 1905, Marquis Ito used the authority 
given him to modify some of the details, so as to make 
them seem less harsh while preserving the substance of the 
contract, in order to "save the face" of the Korean 
Government. When this Convention was published in the 
Official Gazette, the Korean politicians of the Palace 
"gang" were congratulating themselves on having es- 
caped so easily from the risk of a punitive expedition to 
which their Emperor, by their own assistance, had sub- 
jected them; the Korean Cabinet were congratulating 
themselves on the deliverance of their country from the 
peril of annexation; while the majority of the Korean peo- 
ple, even in Seoul, seemed -quite indifferent to what had 
happened. 

Immediately upon the conclusion of the new Convention 
Marquis Ito summoned to his residence the principal Resi- 
dency-General officials and acquainted them with its terms. 
He also informed them that he should himself adhere con- 
stantly and firmly to the policy of carrying out its stipulations; 
and he exhorted them to bear in mind what he had just said 
and to spare no pains to discharge their own duties with 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 433 

moderation and efficiency. The officials, in their turn, 
congratulated the Resident- General upon his brilliant suc- 
cess, and promised their co-operation in the new plans now 
before them. 

The Agreement of July 24, 1907, definitively places the 
enactment of all laws and ordinances, the administration of 
all important Korean Government affairs, and all official 
appointments which relate to internal administration, under 
the control of the Japanese Resident- General. Its preamble 
renews the assertion which has governed the policy of Marquis 
Ito throughout namely, that the motive is to be found in 
" the early attainment of the prosperity and strength of Korea," 
and the "speedy promotion of the welfare of the Korean 
people." Moreover, it pledges the Korean Government to 
keep judicial affairs distinct from administrative affairs. 
With regard to the appointment and dismissal of officials of 
the higher rank, whether native or foreign, it is specified that 
the consent of the Resident- General must be secured; and 
also that his recommendations for the appointment of Japan- 
ese to official positions shall be followed. Taken in connec- 
tion with the Convention of November, 1905, therefore, the 
present condition of Korea is undoubtedly that of a country 
completely dependent upon Japan for both internal govern- 
ment and also for commercial and diplomatic relations with 
all foreign countries. For the present the autonomy of 
Korea, except so far as it is preserved in certain customs 
and laws which even the source of control would be forced 
to regard, and in the nominal preservation of the Ko- 
rean crown and its Cabinet Ministers, is suspended. The 
native government can suggest, propose, and assimilate sug- 
gestions and proposals; but they can* neither initiate nor 
control in important affairs without the consent of the 
representative of Japan. On the other hand, the plans and 
proposals of the Japanese Resident- General must be ac- 




434 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

cepted and carried out under his supervision and ultimate 
control. 1 

The clause in the new Convention which gave most offence 
to the official classes and to the Yang-bans generally in Korea 
was that which opened the door, per force as it were, to the 
appointment of Japanese to all kinds of official positions in 
the peninsula. Although it has been the declared policy of 
the present Resident- General to retain the Korean Cabinet 
Ministers, the agreement plainly makes it easily possible for 
the Japanese Government to treat desirable appointments in 
Korea as freely in the interests of its own countrymen as is 
possible for the British Government in British India. The 
pledge, however, to maintain the Imperial House in the 
nominal possession of the crown, and in the show of authority 
and dignity which go with this possession, appears still to be 
binding upon Japan. From this time onward, the Resident- 
General becomes the uncrowned king of Korea. 

In spite of this, and of all the other features of these re- 
formed relations which might seem offensive and humiliating 
to Korean officialdom, it is altogether likely that no consider- 
able disturbance would anywhere have taken place, had it not 
been for the action of the same disorderly and rebellious 
factors which occasioned the bloodshed and confusion of 
Friday, July igth. 2 These were the Korean troops belonging 

1 For the text of this new Convention, which is remarkable at once 
for its brevity and its comprehensive indefiniteness, the reader is re- 
ferred to Appendix C. In vew of the claims that the Convention of 
1905 could not have been consented to by the Emperor because it does 
not bear his signature, or that it did not have the consent of the Minis- 
ters, because they did not all sign it, attention is called to the fact that 
the new Convention is signed only by Marquis Ito and the Korean 
Prime Minister. 

2 One of the leaders of the riot of July igth confessed that he was 
betrayed into his action by the false report of the Taihan Mai-il Shimpo 
(or Korean edition of the Korean Daily News Mr. BethelPs paper), 
that the Emperor would be forced to go to Japan to apologize for The 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 435 

to the barracks at Seoul. Let it be distinctly understood that 
these troops were not disciplined soldiers; much less were 
they sincere though misguided patriots. They were largely 
untrained rowdies, who cared chiefly for the pay, prestige, and 
idle life which their employment as so-called palace guards 
gave to them. At the time of the conclusion of the Convention 
an understanding probably existed between the Resident- 
General and the Korean Ministry, who were themselves 
threatened with assassination and the defeat of all their 
work by these same armed and unscrupulous fellows, that the 
Korean army should be disbanded. 

Late on Wednesday night, July 3ist, an Imperial rescript 
was issued which ordered the disbandment of the Korean 
Army. The reason assigned was the necessity of economizing 
all superfluous expenses and applying the funds thus saved 
to material improvement. The existing army was called 
"mercenaries" 1 and said to be "unfit for purposes of national 
defense." The intention was announced to remodel the entire 
military system and, for the present time, to attend chiefly 
to the training of officers for a national army in the future. 
A small select force was to be retained as guardians of the 
Imperial House, and a gratuity in money was to be bestowed 
upon every one of the disbanded troops, according to rank. 
All the reasons here given for this action were quite in ac- 
cordance with the facts; but the most important of all was, 
of course, concealed namely, that the existing army was the 

Hague incident. On reading the Japanese-Korean Convention, how- 
ever, he was surprised at the moderation of Japan, and considered him- 
self a fool for being deceived by the paper. This is only one of in- 
numerable instances illustrating the truth that the English editor of 
this paper, and his American coadjutor have, of late, probably done 
more mischief to the Korean nation than any other persons except the 
Emperor and his small coterie of corrupt Court officials. 

1 The word thus translated, however, means "paid" troops rather 
than volunteers. 



436 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

most serious of all menaces to good order and to peace. It 
was sure to be the tool, for purposes of assassination, of the 
reactionary party. 

Early the following morning Thursday, July 3ist the 
superior officers were summoned to the residence of General 
Hasegawa, where General Yi, the Korean Minister of War, 
read to them the rescript of disbandment. After conference 
it was decided that the non-commissioned officers and men 
of all the battalions in Seoul should be marched without arms 
to the parade ground inside the East Gate of the city and there 
be dismissed after receiving their gratuities from the Em- 
peror. They were to be present for this purpose by ten 
o'clock of the same morning. Soon after eight o'clock, as 
the Japanese instructor of the Korean Army was engaged, 
in its barracks, in drawing up the first battalion of the First 
Korean Regiment, a great noise of weeping and groaning 
was heard, and the fact was made known that its commander 
had committed suicide. This was the signal for the springing 
up of a great excitement, during which the troops broke 
their ranks and threatened the Japanese officer with a mur- 
derous attack. The mutiny spread at once to another 
battalion occupying adjoining barracks. The mutineers 
then proceeded to break open the magazines and, arming 
themselves, they rushed out of the barracks. They thereupon 
posted sentinels around the barracks where the majority of 
the forces still remained, who began to fire aimless shots 
from within upon the passers-by. Meantime some of the 
troops ran away. 4 

From this centre the mutiny spread, the mutineers rushing 
out from the barracks to fire upon the Japanese officers who 
were conducting to the parade ground the other Korean 
battalions; but soon after the appointed time of ten o'clock all 
the Korean forces had reported there, with the exception of 
the two mutinous battalions. The reduction of the mutinous 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 437 

soldiers was no easy matter, for the main force was en- 
trenched behind stone walls near the centre of the city, and 
the Japanese forces attacking them were much embarrassed 
by being fired upon by those of the number who had rushed 
out from the barracks. But the use of several machine guns 
two of which, after being planted on the wall of the Great 
South Gate, were trained so as to cover the advance of the 
Japanese infantry and a hand-to-hand fight with bayonets/ 
and hand-grenades at the barracks soon reduced the mutinous \ 
Korean soldiers. By 10.50 A. M. the barracks were completely /! 
in the hands of the Japanese. The casualties as estimated in 
the official report o: General Hasegawa were, on the side of 
the Japanese, 3 killed, and 2 officers and 20 men wounded; 
on the side of the Koreans, n officers and 57 men killed, and 
100 officers and men wounded. Korean officers and men, to 
the number of 516, were taken prisoners. The best possible 
care was given to the wounded, both Koreans and Japanese, 
in the government and missionary hospitals Marquis Ito, 
and his suite, and the prominent Japanese ladies belonging 
to the Red Cross Society and Patriotic Associations, visiting 
them in the hospitals and making generous contributions to 
their assistance and comfort. 

In one respect, however, the Japanese military authorities 
made a mistake which their hostile critics were not slow to 
seize upon and exaggerate to the discredit of their management 
generally. It appears that the services of some thirty 
civilians were volunteered and accepted to assist the police 
and soldiers in searching for the fugitive mutineers. Much 
bad blood had been stirred up between the two nationalities , 
by the previous unprovoked attack and murder of the Japan- \ 
ese police at the hands of mutinous Korean soldiers. In the \ 
spirit of vengeance, therefore, there was no doubt considerable 
return of excesses on the part of irresponsible individuals / 
among the Japanese civilian volunteers. Otherwise, the very / 



438 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

trying situation in which these revolts of the Korean military 
forces placed the Japanese Government in Seoul was appar- 
ently met with commendable moderation and skill. 

One of the most noteworthy features of this entire disturb- 
ance was the complete aloofness of the people of Seoul from 
any hostile demonstration toward the Japanese. Within 
forty-eight hours of this battle between their own disbanded 
troops and the foreign military, the city resumed its normal 
appearance ; the people went about their accustomed occupa- 
tions; the full tide of business began to flow as usual. Such 
behavior as this, under anything resembling similar condi- 
tions, has seldom or never before characterized the populace 
of Seoul. It must be interpreted as a hopeful sign for the 
future good order and prosperity of the city. 

The disbandment of the Korean provincial garrisons for the 
most part proceeded quietly. But the disbanded soldiers in 
considerable numbers allied themselves with other elements 
of riot and unrest, and local disturbances of a more or less 
serious character continued to break out and demand sup- 
pression by the police and the military, here and there in 
various parts of the peninsula. This state of things continued 
for weeks and, in a diminishing degree, for months following 
the Convention of July, 1907. But the detailed account of 
these transactions does not concern our narrative. Under 
the circumstances they may be considered as temporary but 
unavoidable incidents in the practical solution of this complex 
and difficult historical problem of the relations to be estab- 
lished between Japan and Korea. Among the mutinous 
and riotous outbreaks that at Kang-wha Island the scene 
in the past of so many acute conflicts between Korea and 
/foreign nations was typical and also, perhaps, one of the 
/ most important. When the Japanese captain in command 
of a detachment of Japanese troops, and accompanied by the 
Korean commander of the native battalion at Suwon, arrived 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 439 

to disband the Korean garrison and to distribute the gratuities, 
they were met by a shower of bullets poured upon them while 
landing on the island. The Korean mutineers retreated to 
the city of Kang-wha, where they were joined by some 300 
rioters. Under cover of the city walls they offered a some- 
what stubborn resistance to the attacking forces, but were 
finally dislodged and fled in various directions. It was 
afterward learned that the Korean troops, in defiance of their 
own officers, had broken open the military magazine, mur- 
dered the magistrate of the island and several policemen, and 
had then forced some hundreds of the citizens, by threats of 
death, to join with them in fighting the Japanese. When 
the real fighting began, they ran away. 

The procedure at Kang-wha, we repeat, was typical. 
It is a specimen of the Korean ancestral way of resisting 
every form of government. The method of these " patriotic" 
uprisings was everywhere similar. Several score or hun- 
dreds of Koreans, stirred and led by the disbanded soldiers, 
came together, killed the Japanese old men, women, and. 
children as well as the police officials, shot some of their/ 
own countrymen, chiefly those suspected of not being sufrV- 
ciently violent in their anti- Japanese sentiments, burned and 
plundered indiscriminately; and then when the Japanese 
military or police approached in any formidable numbers 
they ran away and hid themselves. In view of these dis- 
turbed conditions and the alleged connection of some of their 
converts with these uprisings, the missionaries were anew 
placed in a difficult and delicate situation. This, however, \ 
like the greater number of similar previous trials, was not j Y' 
primarily due to the Japanese Protectorate, but to the Koreans/ ' 
themselves Emperor, officials, and common people. There 
were numerous plausible charges made against the mission- 
aries and their converts of harboring Korean rioters and even 
of lending countenance to the rioting under the pretence of 




440 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

patriotism. There can be little doubt, however, that these 
charges were, almost if not quite without exception, either 
misunderstandings or malicious falsehoods. The misunder- 
standings were, in view of the past, not altogether unreason- 
able; the falsehoods were such as are encountered by the 
religious teacher wherever he seems to stand in the way of 
unlimited greed or unchecked violence. On the whole, as 
has already been said, there can be no doubt that the mission- 
aries and their Korean converts exerted a notable influence 
in favor of quietness, peace, and the observance of law and 
order. That the native Christians were alarmed, and stood 
in fear both of the Japanese and of their own countrymen, 
was a thing to be expected. But probably their experience 
in this time of trial with the behavior of these foreign police- 
men and soldiers tended to diminish the native dislike and 
dread of the Japanese Protectorate. 

At once the strength of the reform party among the Koreans 
themselves began to make itself felt under the terms of the 
new Convention. On the date of August i5th an Imperial 
rescript forbade boys under seventeen years of age, and 
girls under fifteen, from contracting marriages. The same 
day the new Emperor proclaimed the purpose, which he 
afterward carried out, to cut his hair on the occasion of his 
formal accession to the throne and to dress himself in 
military uniform from that time. The ex-Emperor, in spite 
of the fact that he had formerly been glad to .see his people 
excited to rebellion and murder by a similar proposal for 
changing the fashion of the Korean gentleman's head-dress, 
and in spite also of the fact that weeping eunuchs and ancient 
Court officials besought him not to proceed to such lengths 
in breaking with the past, actually did subsequently join in 
the new custom. And when the deed was done, His ex- 
Majesty was pleased to command the objectors to do likewise, 
and to say for himself that the change was really not half so 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 441 

bad as he had thought it would be. Now, although these are 
not trivial matters in Korea, or mere straws which show the 
way of the blowing of the wind, a more important result of 
the new Convention was this: after due deliberation, the 
Cabinet Ministers decided that the young son of Lady Om 
who had already been proclaimed Crown Prince, must in 
future really attend to his lessons and become educated in 
some manner befitting his future expectations. Although it 
was doubted whether His Imperial Highness was not still too 
young to go to Japan for study, he was required to begin the 
study of the Japanese language in addition to English and 
Chinese. Left to the influence of the eunuchs and palace 
women, he was sure to be debauched and ruined. Educated, 
he may easily make the best sovereign Korea has enjoyed for 
centuries. 

At once also the Resident-General began to mature the 
larger plans for carrying out his purposes toward Korea 
which the new Convention made possible. For now upon 
the Japanese Government in Korea rested the responsibility, 
not only for the satisfactory and safe management of the 
country's foreign relations, but directly and more heavily 
than ever before, the readjustment, reform, and successful 
management of all its internal affairs. To report to the 
Emperor of Japan, and to consult with His Majesty and with 
the Japanese Government about the form and successful 
execution of the measures made necessary or desirable by the 
new Convention, Marquis Ito paid a visit to his native land. 
Leaving Seoul by special train for Chemulpo on the afternoon 
of August nth, His Excellency arrived at Oiso five days later; \ 
and on the Tuesday following, August 2oth, received at \ 
Shimbashi Station in Tokyo a reception, both by the official 
class and by the crowds, such as has seldom or never been / 
accorded to a civilian before in the history of Japan. The / 
reception given to him by the Emperor, who had sent air 



442 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

Imperial Chamberlain to intimate his desire to consult with 
the Resident-General, was scarcely less unique. 

In the many public addresses which followed, at the various 
banquets and receptions given to the Marquis, he took pains 
to make it perfectly clear that his benevolent intentions 
toward the Korean people had in no respect suffered a change. 
Of himself he declared that he was neither elated in spirit over 
the success of the new treaty, nor depressed in spirit before 
the new difficulties which must be encountered. He wished 
his countrymen to remember that the Korean problem was 
not political, not one of the successful exploitation of a 
weaker nation by a stronger, but a question of that policy 
which should be fpr the highest interests and best welfare of 
both nations. The need of the hour was the need of men 
both Japanese and Koreans who could stand in the places 
of responsibility and influence, and discharge their duties 
faithfully, honestly, unselfishly. The work which he had 
undertaken to do in Korea was only a beginning; and on 
account of advancing age he must soon let it go from his hand. 
At present, however, he was in harness and must remain so. 
When the time came for him to resign, he hoped sincerely 
that some able and wise successor in the office now so in- 
creasingly responsible of Japanese Resident- General in 
Korea might somewhere be found. 

This historical and critical sketch of the relations between 
the two nations of Japan and Korea fitly closes with the visit 
of Marquis now Prince Ito to Tokyo in August of 1907. 
The results to follow from the plans which were then matured 
for the administration of the offices of the Residency-General 
and for the more ultimate solution of the delicate and com- 
plex problem of bringing about a state of affairs which shall 
at the same time redeem Korea and deliver Japan from the" 
constant menace which the peninsula has hitherto been 
and not only this, but shall bind the two nations together 



JULY, 1907, AND AFTERWARD 443 

in a common prosperity under terms of friendship and 
good-will, are destined to form important items in the future 
history of the Far East. It remains only to add that no one 
who could have heard the firm and feeling-full declaration 
made to the writer by His Excellency when the latter was 
on the eve of returning to Seoul, would question the wisdom, 
honesty, or benevolence of the Japanese Resident-General in 
Korea. As fast and far as he can have his way, this long- 
time misgoverned and wretched nation will be reformed and 
uplifted to an unwonted economical and political prosperity. 



CHAPTER XIX 

THE SOLUTION OF THE PROBLEM 

THE role of the prophet in his predictive function, and 
with reference to the destiny of nations, is always a delicate 
and dangerous part to play. The danger is particularly 
great when the complex and largely unfamiliar ideas and 
emotions of Oriental peoples constitute the controlling factors 
in the situation; it is made still greater at the present time, 
as regards the future of the Far East, by the increasing 
admixture of foreign and Western influences. Above all, 
however, is the situation complicated by the unsettled and 
totally uncertain condition of China. Here are countless 
millions of an industrious, patient, and thrifty, but almost 
incredibly ignorant and superstitious, population; corrupt 
and intriguing official classes and an essentially foreign 
Court; indefinitely great resources of soil and mines, and an 
almost limitless capacity for foreign trade, which makes it 
the coveted territory for exploiting schemes by both European 
and Asiatic nations. Into this hitherto relatively inert mass 
the ferment of new conceptions of civilization and of life, of 
the things which are worth the having and which may be had, 
if men will struggle and fight for them, is now being every- 
where introduced. The restlessness of feeling, with its 
stimulus to violence, which has formerly resulted for the most 
part in local uprisings against excessive squeezing from their 
own officials, or against too obvious interference with their 
ancient institutions and present material interests by for- 
eigners, is now taking the form of a purpose which may 

444 



THE SOLUTION OF THE PROBLEM 445 

quickly change, and by bloody revolution if necessary, the 
character of the Chinese Government and even the nature of 
Chinese characteristic civilization. What will be the effect 
of all this upon the entire Far East, is a question which would 
require of any student of history a bold, an audacious front 
to answer in a confident tone. 1 

In this uncertainty as to the future of the Far East, Korea 
shares, as a matter of course, to a large extent. For, even now 
that certain important factors in the problem of the Japanese 
Protectorate over Korea seem to be relatively stable, the 
problem as a whole remains exceedingly difficult and com- 
plex. How will Japan succeed in solving this problem? 
Will it be by the way of developing the material resources of 
the land, on the whole peacefully, and chiefly for the benefit 
of the Koreans themselves; of reforming the economic, ad- 
ministrative, and judicial condition of the common people; 
and of making a foreign rule to be esteemed a blessing rather 
than an odious imposition? Or, will it be by the way of 
reducing Korea to a condition of virtual vassalage, and of 
making its people a dissatisfied nation, ever ready for revolt 
and only kept down from successful revolt by the strong arm 
of a foreign police and a foreign military force ? Will Japan 
really succeed in solving this problem at all ? All suggestions 
in answer to these and similar questions are of value only as 
they are rendered more or less probable in view of such facts 

1 How dangerous is prophecy touching the future of the Far East is 
well illustrated by the following passage quoted from Mr. Whigham's 
generally calm and fair book on Manchuria and Korea, p. 49. Speak- 
ing of the mistake which Japan made in not preventing Russia from 
building the Manchurian Railway, Mr. Whigham says: "On the other 
hand, one is more and more convinced that what used to be talked 
about a short time ago as the inevitable war between Russia and Japan 
is destined to end in smoke, since the Japanese have already lost their 
great opportunity." This was written as of July, 1901. Less than three 
years later "the inevitable war" began in the "smoke" of battle, and 
ended with Japan in possession of this same Manchurian Railway. 



446 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

as those to which attention has been directed in the preced- 
ing chapters of this book. 

The future of Korea and of the Japanese Protectorate over 
Korea will inevitably depend upon the action and reaction 
of three classes of factors. These are the attitude and be- 
havior of other foreign nations; the native capacity for self- 
government and the actual conduct of the Koreans them- 
selves; and the policy of Japan, not as a theory or an experi- 
ment merely, but as embodied in industries, laws, institutions 
and other forms of practical effect. 

In all past time, but especially during the last half-century, 
the relations of Japan and Korea have been chiefly determined 
by the attitude and behavior of other foreign nations, both 
toward and within the Korean peninsula. It was the desire 
of Japan to get at China through Korea, and the determination 
of the Chinese Government to resist and thwart this desire, 
and to retain for itself the supremacy in the control of Korean 
affairs, which brought about the invasion of Hideyoshi, with 
its persistent train of consequences lasting well down into 
modern times. Until the end of the Chino- Japan war, and 
especially in the events of 1882 and 1884, as well as in those 
events which immediately preceded the war, it was what 
China did or proposed to do, which formed the principal 
influence to determine the relations of Japan and Korea. 
After this war had definitively and finally delivered the 
peninsula from all Chinese claims to suzerainty, or even to 
predominating influence, it was chiefly the attitude and 
actions of Russia which decided the more active relations of 
Japanese to the Korean Government. France and Germany 
at the close of the war with China, and France during the 
period just preceding the war with Russia, exercised consider- 
able influence of a less obvious and direct character, how- 
ever upon the relations of these two governments. During 
the last three or four years which cover the period that began 



THE SOLUTION OF THE PROBLEM 447 

toward the close of the Russo-Japanese compaignings, Great 
Britain and the United States have powerfully, but for the 
most part indirectly, affected the newer relations that have 
been in the process of forming between Japan and Korea. 
The Government of Great Britain has been the fair ally and 
sensible counsellor of the Japanese Government; the United 
States, while maintaining an official attitude distinctly favor- 
able to giving the Residency- General a "free hand" for his 
plans to accomplish reforms in Korea, has been, by complicity 
of some of its private citizens with a false and corrupt Emperor, 
a no inconsiderable source of embarrassment. The same 
thing would have to be said of some of the British residents 
in Korea. 

Recent Treaties and Conventions with Great Britain, 
France, and Russia, have now, however, made it as certain as 
anything in the political future of human affairs can well be, 
that none of these powerful nations will for some years to 
come interfere in the policy or administration of the Japanese 
Protectorate in Korea. So far as their action is concerned, 
Japan has only to maintain her pledges of "equal oppor- 
tunity," the "open door," and "hands-off" from China for 
purposes of plundering its territory, and she may now try 
without foreign interference her plans for the improvement of 
her relations with this hitherto most troublesome neighbor. 
Indeed, the way in which the Convention of July, 1907, with 
its increase of legal rights to control the internal administra- 
tion and reshape the entire code and economic and social 
system of the Korean peninsula, has been received by the 
Powers generally, shows that no formidable objection from 
without would be raised if Japan should substitute out-and- 
out annexation for the now-existing Protectorate. The four 
great nations whose territorial possessions give them a su- 
preme interest in the Far East, have already formally ac- 
cepted the existing situation ; there is less and less likelihood 



448 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

of meddling, as authorized by other European or American 
nations, on the part of their diplomatic representatives. 

Furthermore, in Korea itself, those squabbles with foreign- 
ers which have arisen out of conflicting promoting schemes 
and claims to concessions, since order is being rapidly brought 
out of the confusion they have occasioned, are likely to cut 
less of a figure in the future. The anti- Japanese missionaries 
and other foreign residents in Seoul are being either won over, 
or their complaints silenced, by the policy of the Residency- 
General. If the criticisms of the dealings of Japan with Korea 
were much more just and severe, they would not be likely to 
involve international complications of any serious magnitude. 
Only China remains huge, mysterious, incalculable both for 
good and for evil, a vast overhanging cloud, with here and 
there a flash of lightning or streak of sunlight shining through. 
But for some time to come it is altogether unlikely that the 
Celestial Empire will be able, however willing, to re-establish 
any claims to a dominating influence, much less to a restored 
suzerainty, in the Korean peninsula. This first class of 
factors* which have been so influential and even determinative 
in the past, may therefore not improperly be eliminated in 
making up one's calculations as to the probable future. In 
other words, the issue will now be determined by the behavior 
toward each other of the two peoples immediately concerned. 
Japanese and Koreans will now be allowed to work out the 
problem of the relations for the weal or for the woe of both 
peoples to exist and prove effective between Japan and 
Korea. 

What shall be said, however, as to the part which the 
Korean Government and the Korean people themselves are 
likely to contribute toward solving the difficult and intricate 
problem of the future relations of the two nations? The 
basis for a plausible answer to this question must be found 
in an estimate of the material resources of Korea and in a 



THE SOLUTION OF THE PROBLEM 449 

calculation as to the share which the Koreans are destined 
to have in the improved conditions brought about by the 
development of these resources. It has already been shown 
that the soil of the peninsula, under improved methods of 
cultivation, can easily be made to support double the existing 
population. Reforestation and proper treatment of the 
forests remaining can easily supply this increased population 
with fuel and with timber. The introduction of new crops, 
and the increase of the products of cotton and silk, the 
fostering of such forms of manufacture as are fitted to the 
country, and the development of the mines, can just as easily 
be made to place this two-folded population in circumstances 
of greatly increased comfort and prosperity. And with it all 
will go, of course, the building up of foreign trade and the 
securing of all the benefits that follow in its train. But 
who will actually possess the fruits of this development; 
will it be the Koreans themselves, or the Japanese immi- 
grants ? 

So far as the answer to this question depends upon the 
enactment and the enforcement of a just legal code the 
right to an equal chance, and security of this right if only the 
man is able to seize and improve it the Japanese Residency- 
General is solemnly pledged and actually committed. But 
laws, courts, educational institutions, and banking facilities 
cannot do everything. After all these, and in the midst of 
all these, there is the man his physical and mental character- 
istics, his moral and spiritual impulses. Overwhelming 
Japanese immigration is perhaps, then, greatly to be dreaded 
by the Koreans, even when the former can no longer take 
from the latter by fraud or by violence. The dread, however, 
that the Koreans will be supplanted by the Japanese would 
seem by no means to be wholly warranted in view of existing 
facts. The actual native population of the Korean peninsula 
is difficult to ascertain ; but the latest census, taken in the 



450 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

spring of 1907, shows that it was probably greatly over- 
estimated by the previous statistics. This census gave the 
numbers as 9,638,578 people inhabiting 2,322,457 houses. 
A census of the Japanese population in Korea, January 31, 
1907, returned the figures of 81,657 m ^ * which 31,754 
were females. As compared with the returns for March 31, 

1906, this census showed an increase of about 20,000 in the 
non-official Japanese population (a calculation not differing 
greatly from that based upon the returns of the steamship 
agency at Fusan, see p. 143 f.). Making allowance for those 
immigrants who failed to register, we may calculate that not 
far from 100,000 Japanese, exclusive of the army and the 
civil officials, were resident in Korea during the summer of 

1907. The great majority of these immigrants were traders, 
artisans, and common laborers; but an increasing number 
of Japanese farmers were settling, especially in the fertile 
valleys of Kyung-sang-do and Cholla-do. Of these traders, 
artisans, and common laborers, many are engaged in building 
Japanese houses and in construction work on the Japanese 
railways; by no means all such immigrants are likely to 
become permanent residents in Korea. With the farmers 
the case is not the same. 

Is the annual rate of Japanese immigration into Korea 
likely to increase greatly in the future? No one can tell 
positively; but the negative answer seems much the more 
likely. The day of temptation to the mere adventurer is 
largely gone by; the Koreans themselves are likely to become 
acquainted with the way of doing things as the Japanese 
demand requires they should be done, and then many of 
these foreign traders, artisans, and laborers will have their 
places taken by Koreans. Formosa, Manchuria, and Hok- 
kaido are rivals of Korea for the Japanese agriculturists and 
other kinds of permanent settlers; South America and other 
countries offer greater inducements to the emigration com- 



THE SOLUTION OF THE PROBLEM 451 

panies. Moreover, at about the same time that the results 
of these censuses were published, a local paper in Seoul 
published the birth and death statistics of the Japanese 
colony there. These statistics showed that during the pre- 
vious year there had been an excess of deaths over births 
among the Japanese in Seoul. Of births there were 312 
187 male and 125 female, while the deaths amounted to a 
total of 464 308 male and 156 female. And yet there are 
few old people, and almost none who came as invalids, in 
this foreign population. 

Let it be supposed, however, that the annual net increase 
of Japanese population in Korea amounts to 20,000 for the 
next fifty years. There will then be only somewhat more than 
one million of this now foreign population. But meantime 
the Korean peninsula will have become quite capable of 
supporting double its present native population. Besides 
this, there are those to the opinion of whom the present 
writer is strongly inclined who feel confident that fifty 
years from now the distinction between Korean and Japanese, 
among the common people, will be very nearly, if not quite 
completely, wiped out. And, indeed, the two nations are of 
essentially the same derivation, so far as their dominant 
strains of ancestral blood are concerned ; and great as are the 
present differences between the Japanese in Japan and the 
Koreans in Korea, there is no real reason why both Japanese 
and Koreans should not become essentially one people in 
Korea. 

There is then, it would seem, no essential and permanent 
reason of a material sort why Korea should not remain Korean 
in its principal features, if the next half-century shows the 
expected results in its material development. We have seen 
that the present Residency- General is committed to the policy 
of developing the land in the behalf of its own inhabitants, 
while according all just and natural rights, and all reasonable 



452 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

encouragement, to foreign immigration and to foreign capital. 
Again, however, the same decisive but as yet unanswered 
questions return: Can the Court be purified? Can an 
honest and efficient Korean official class be secured, trained, 
and supported by the nation? Can that middle class 
which is in all modern nations the source of the controlling 
economic and moral factors be constituted out of the body 
of the Korean people ? And, finally, can the great multitude, 
the Korean populace, be made more intelligent, law-abiding, 
and morally sound? 

As to the purification of the Court at Seoul under the ex- 
Emperor, and so far as his influence could be extended such 
a thing was found impossible by the Resident- General. 
Warnings, advice, experience of evil results all were of no 
avail. This weak and corrupt nature would not free itself 
from its environment of sorceresses, eunuchs, soothsayers, 
and selfish or desperate, corrupt, and low-lived native and 
foreign advisers ; and without the conversion of the Emperor, 
under the former conditions, the Court could not be made 
more intelligent, honest and patriotic. So long and so far as 
the ex-Emperor can exercise his parental influence upon the 
present Emperor in national affairs, the part which the Court 
plays in the redemption of the nation will be comparatively 
small. But this influence is now broken; and the measures 
which are being taken wholly to nullify it can scarcely fail 
to succeed. If it becomes necessary, His ex-Majesty can be 
given a residence remote from Seoul. The Convention of 
July, 1907, gives to the Japanese Resident- General a hitherto 
impossible control over the entourage of the Emperor. It is 
therefore altogether unlikely that any future ruler of Korea, 
even if he should wish to follow this bad example, this most 
disastrous precedent, will be able to rival for mischief his 
predecessors, by way of encouraging fraud, violence, and sedi- 
tion at home, and foreign misunderstandings and interferences 



THE SOLUTION OF THE PROBLEM 453 

through the help of unwise or unscrupulous "foreign friends." 
Moreover, the present Emperor, so far as can be judged by 
the brief experience under his rule, is either not disposed, or 
not able, to continue the evil practices of his Imperial an- 
cestor. The proposals for reform brought before His Korean 
Majesty seem now to meet with neither open nor secret 
opposition. Best of all, the palace horde of evil men and 
women is being reduced from within, and excluded from 
without; and this, in the absence of complaints and petitions 
for pity, sent over the civilized world, from the royal "pris- 
oner" under a blood-thirsty Japanese guard! Thus there is 
solid ground on which to build hopes of a far less corrupt, 
a much more intelligent and honest, Korean Court. 

That honorable and brave leaders generals, civil rulers, 
magistrates, and judges can come out of Korean ancestry, 
there is the evidence of history to show. True, the number 
of such leaders, through all the past centuries of Korea's 
sad and disgraceful career, has been relatively small. But, as 
has been repeatedly pointed out, this fact has been largely 
due to the corrupt official system, and the ever-present cor- 
rupting influence, which has come from across the Yellow 
Sea that is, from China. The Cabinet officials who had to 
meet the severely trying emergency which ended with the 
abdication of the Emperor, a new Convention with Japan, 
and the pacification of a people much given over to local 
disorders and to the spreading of the spirit of riot and 
sedition, on the whole acquitted themselves well. It is, 
indeed, difficult to see how they could have done better 
for the country under the existing circumstances. That 
timber can be grown in Korea, out of which may be hewn 
in the future enough material for a sound and fair of- 
ficial edifice, there is, we think, no good reason to doubt. 
Under the recent Convention the responsibility for framing 
laws, policing the country, securing order, appointing a just 



454 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

and intelligent magistracy, as well as developing schools 
and industries and arts, rests primarily upon the Japanese 
Government. If moderation and wisdom can be secured 
here, a sufficient force of native official helpers and partners 
in all the benevolent projects of the Marquis Ito can probably 
in due time also be secured. In order, however, that Japan- 
ese and Korean officials should co-operate heartily, and should 
live and work together in peace, it is necessary that the under- 
lying principle of their co-operation should be not selfish, but 
controlled by devotion to duty and by an intelligent and 
sincere desire to secure the welfare of both nations. Only 
such high motives can unite men of different nationalities, or 
even of the same nation, in works of economic reform and 
moral improvement. This is only to say that in Korea, as 
everywhere else in the ancient and the modern world alike, 
the real and lasting success of the government must depend 
upon its intelligence and its righteousness. It is to be hoped 
that the capacity for both these essential classes of qualifica- 
tions for self-government is in the Korean blood, if only it 
can have tuition, example, and freedom for development. 

With the improvement of the economic and industrial 
conditions in Korea, and especially with the enlarged op- 
portunities for foreign commerce, a fairly intelligent and well- 
to-do middle class population is likely to result from the 
Japanese Protectorate. This class is in a process of evolution 
in Japan itself. It is essentially the product, "natural" so 
to say where public schools exist and thrive, and where the 
conditions are favorable to manufacture, trade, and agri- 
culture on any large scale. But especially is such a class 
one of the most sure and valuable results of a more highly 
moral and spiritual religion. Christianity distinctly favors, 
when it becomes practically operative, the formation of a 
middle class. In Korea hitherto there have been only, as a 
rule, corrupt and oppressive rulers and officials, and ignorant, 



THE SOLUTION OF THE PROBLEM 455 

oppressed, and degraded multitudes. The foundation of 
schools of the modern type, especially for technical and man- 
ual training, and the spread of Christianity, will, almost 
inevitably, combine to raise a body of thrifty, fairly intelligent, 
and upright, self-respecting citizens. This will go far 
toward solving the problem of the reform and redemption 
of Korea. 

As to the destiny of considerable numbers of the lower 
orders of the people, that is perhaps unavoidably true which 
has been said of the Korean farmers : "A large percentage of I 
them are past all hope of salvation." The professional 
robbers and beggars, the riotous "pedlers," the seditious 
among the disbanded troops or the "tiger hunters," the wild 
and savage inhabitants of the mountainous regions, the people 
who live by thieving, counterfeiting, soothsaying, divin- 
ing, and other illicit ways, will have to submit, reform, or 
be exterminated. Doubtless, many of them will prefer to be 
exterminated. But our examination of the previous chapters 
encourages and confirms the hope that something much 
better than this is possible for the great multitude of the 
peasants among the Korean people. Marquis Ito has set his 
heart on helping this class toward a much improved condi- 
tion. The promise of this he has distinctly affirmed in both 
private and public addresses, and has indeed done all that 
he possibly could to confirm. It is this also upon which every 
true-hearted missionary is most intently bent. For it was to 
these same multitudes sheep without a shepherd that 
Jesus came; on their uplift and salvation he set his heart. 
It would be contrary to the experience of the centuries to 
suppose that an enlightened form of education and a spiritual 
religion could combine in the effort to raise 'the multitudes of 
any nation, without resulting in a large measure of success. 

It would seem, then, that the responsibility for a successful 
and relatively permanent solution of the difficult problem 



456 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

offered by the geographical, historical and other important 
relations of Japan and Korea, under the now existing Con- 
vention between the two governments, rests most heavily 
upon the Japanese themselves. ( They have at last " a free 
hand"; the material with which they have to deal in order 
to construct a new and improved national structure is, indeed, 
in bad and largely unsound condition; but it is not hopeless, 
and it is not radically deficient in the qualities necessary for a 
sound and durable structure. Korea is, inherently considered^ 
capable of reform; but at present it is not capable of self- 
government, much less of self-instituted and wholly self- 
controlled reform. Japan has taken upon herself the task 
of furnishing example, stimulus, guidance, and effective 
forces, to set this desirable ideal into reality. No other 
nation has this task; no other nation is going seriously to 
interfere with Japan in its task. On the Japanese Govern- 
ment and the Japanese people rests the heavy responsibility 
of securing a new and greatly improved national life for the 
millions of the Korean peninsula; if they succeed, to them 
will chiefly be the praise and the profit; if they fail, to them 
will chiefly be the shame and the loss. At present, and in 
the near future, it is the last of these three sets of determining 
factors namely, the policy and practice of Japan herself 
with reference to Korea which will have the final word to 
say in the solution of this difficult problem. The judgment 
of the civilized world is already pronounced upon this matter. 
Korea has already been judged impotent and unworthy to 
be trusted with the management either of her own internal 
affairs or of her relations to other nations in the Far East 
and in the world at large. Japan has been judged to be 
most favorably situated and, for the protection of her own 
interests, best entitled to undertake and to carry through 
the reform and reconstitution of Korea. Japan also will 
in the future be judged, by the judgment of the civilized 



THE SOLUTION OF THE PROBLEM 457 

world and by the verdict of history, according to the way in 
which she fulfils her duties, and accomplishes her task, in 
; Korea. 

Will Japan prove equal to the management and the de- 
velopment of the internal resources, civil government, and 
foreign relations, of her weaker neighbor in such a way as to 
command the title to a righteous and genuine success? No 
one can answer this question with a perfect confidence. In 
many important respects the present is an exceedingly critical 
time for the Japanese Government and the Japanese nation 
in respect of the condition of its own internal affairs. The 
same thing is true of Japan's relations to foreign nations. 
The army and navy deserved and won praise from all the 
civilized world for its bravery, skill, and moderation in the 
last war. And after the war terminated in a treaty of peace 
which, while it w r as at the time wisely made on the part of 
the real leaders of the nation, was exceedingly disappointing 
to the military and naval forces and to the people at large, 
the whole of Japan, with the exception of few and brief de- 
monstrations of resentment, obeyed the wise counsels and 
injunctions of His Imperial Majesty, its Emperor. In obe- 
dience to these injunctions the nation turned quietly and 
diligently to the pursuits of peace. But in these pursuits 
Japan is by no means so far advanced, when judged by mod- 
ern standards, as she was in the preparation for, and conduct 
of, war both by land and by sea. In manufactures and every 
form of industry, in trade and commerce, in the devising and 
management of the means of communication, in education, 
science, and literature everywhere in these lines of peaceful 
national activity there is a great deficiency of trained and 
trustworthy helpers, even for the supply of her own immediate 
needs. In all these matters of national interest and import, 
the cry of her leaders is for the right sort of men. How, then, 
shall Japan at the present juncture supply in sufficient num- 



IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

bers the workmen to meet the needs of the hour in the reform 
and uplift of Korea? 

Moreover, as the nation of Japan advances in these many 
lines, it is inevitable that it should meet the same difficulties, 
embarrassments, and dangers which in yet severer form are 
testing the leading nations of Europe and America. Trusts 
and labor unions both likely to become the enemies of the 
Empire as they have so largely in the United States become 
the enemies of the Republic are already growing apace. 
Even more, perhaps, than anywhere else outside of Russia 
and parts of Germany, insane theories of ethics, philosophy, 
and religion, are captivating the minds, and controlling the 
conduct, of not a few of her students and other young men. 
As in the United States, especially, but also in all the countries 
of Europe, the old-fashioned parental control and discipline 
of the home-life is being greatly relaxed. The over-estimate 
of so-called science and the conceit of modernity are working 
mischief in the character of not a few. And the life of the 
millions of the people is not yet lifted to the higher grades of 
morality and religion. 

With regard to the right national policy toward Korea 
there has also been, as we have seen, a long-standing difference 
of opinion. This difference. still exists, although it was for 
the time submerged by the tide of enthusiastic approval 
which welcomed the policy of Marquis Ito when, under the 
grant of liberty of action from His Imperial Majesty, with the 
consent of the Elder Statesmen, and the co-operation of Minis- 
ter Hayashi, the Convention of July, 1907, was successfully 
concluded. Many of the military leaders, however, continue 
to favor a more punitive and war-like attitude toward any 
resistance on the part of the Koreans. The mailed fist, with 
its threats, rather than the open palm, with its promise of 
friendly assistance, seems to them better fitted to the situation. 
And it can never be expected that there will be a cessation 



THE SOLUTION OF THE PROBLEM 459 

of the desires and efforts of that crowd of Japanese ad- 
venturers, promoters, and unscrupulous traders, who are as 
ready to make game of the resources of Korea as are the smaller 
number of no less selfish foreigners residing in the peninsula 
but claiming the protection for their schemes of other nation- 
alities. Of the two, the latter are in not a few cases much 
the more difficult to deal with in a manner satisfactory both 
to the honor of the Japanese Protectorate and also to the 
interests of the Korean people. All these schemers, as a 
matter of course, have scanty faith in the slow and patient 
methods of education, economic and judicial reform, which 
are deliberately chosen and persistently followed by the 
present Residency- General. 

Such tendencies as those just mentioned undoubtedly make 
it more difficult to predict with confidence the success of Japan 
in the task of building up a strong and healthy national existence 
out of the so largely dead and decayed material furnished to 
its hand. But there are other tendencies, and other forms 
of influence, now existing and growing in vigor among the 
Japanese of to-day, which strongly encourage the hopeful 
view. The nation emerged from the war with Russia in 
much more sober and thoughtful frame of mind than that 
which followed upon the close of the Chino- Japan war. 
The enormous losses of life, and the heavy debt left upon 
them by the expenditure of treasure, tended to keep down 
the self-conceit and headiness which might have followed an 
easier victory. And in spite of the immediate disadvantages 
growing out of the fact that the terms of the Treaty of Ports- 
mouth fell so far below their expectations, and below what 
seemed to them at the time their just deserts, it was probably 
best in the preparation for their future enterprises and strug- 
gles to have the war end as it did. Of the sincere desire of 
Japan for peace with the whole world, no one who knows the 
nation can have the slightest honest doubt. 



460 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

There has also been a great awakening of interest in 
moral problems since the Russo-Japanese war. This interest 
is not confined to any one class. In all the Government 
schools, of every description, especial attention is being given 
to ethics. This is the one study which is kept most constantly 
before the minds of the pupils, from the earliest stages of their 
training to the end of the graduate courses in the university. 
Aware of the unworthy reputation of its business men, in 
respect of business morality, the commercial schools, higher 
and lower, government and private, are placing emphasis 
upon the side of moral instruction and discipline in prepara- 
tion for business life. The men, now past middle life, who 
were trained to the respect for honor and the feelings of devo- 
tion which characterized the Samurai (or Puritan knights) 
of the old regime, and who have been the inspirers and guides 
of all that has been best* in the "New Japan," are still, 
though they are growing old and fewer in number, controlling 
the destinies of the nation They have the confidence of 
His Imperial Majesty, the Emperor of Japan, who steadily 
throws the great weight of his influence upon the side which 
favors combining these ancient virtues with a modern 
education. Among the men in middle life there still lingers, 
indeed, much of those influences and practices which have 
cost the New Japan so dearly, in loss of reputation and of 
failure to make good use of some of her choicest opportunities. 
But the new and better spirit is most conspicuous with 
the younger educated men; the boys and girls in the public 
schools are receiving a form of education and discipline 
which, considering Japan's poverty and newness of resources, 
surpasses that of any other country in the civilized world. 
Moreover, the ear of the nation is open to religion as never 
before in its history. This increased feeling of*need, and this 
higher estimate of the value of an improved morality and a 
more spiritual religion, together with the arousing and 



THE SOLUTION OF THE PROBLEM 461 

directing of the nation's energies into the development of its 
material resources and its foreign trade, are the distinctive 
features of the national life of the Japanese at the present 
time. 

There is another thing about the temperament of' the 
Japanese which is often of most powerful influence, and yet 
most difficult for foreigners to appreciate. This is the force 
of sentimental considerations, which frequently triumph over 
those considerations that are regarded by other peoples as of 
more importance in practical affairs. Already, the senti- 
ments of generosity, of pity, and of a sort of condescending 
kindness, have triumphed in the management of Korean af- 
fairs by the Japanese. The history of the relations of the 
two countries has amply illustrated this fact. These senti- 
ments, which are certainly dominant to a large extent with 
the Residency- General, when reenforced by the growing re- 
spect for morality and religion, will it seems fair to sup- 
pose be even more powerful in the future. 

Still further, Japan has successfully overcome many 
enormous difficulties, and has bravely and well met many most 
threatening emergencies, during the last fifty years. Over 
and over again during this period, her case has seemed 
almost desperate. But each time the nation has rallied and 
has climbed upward to a higher and better level in its na- 
tional life. True, this has been due, to a large extent, to the 
wisdom and skill of the men who have thus far led the nation. 
And they are passing off the stage. That the younger spirits 
who are coming on will serve their day with equal courage, 
wisdom, and success, is our hope and our belief. Then 
there will be assured the third and most important class of 
the factors which, in their combination with the other two, 
will secure the new, redeemed Korea in friendly relations, 
in amity and unity, with Japan, her benefactor as well as 
her protector. 



462 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

/~v 

There is no essential reason why Japanese and Koreans 
~ should not become one nation in Korea. Whether this 
nation will be called Korea or Japan, time alone can tell. 
That it will be a happier, more prosperous, more moral and 
truly religious people than the present Korean people, there 
is sufficient reason to predict. Indeed, considering the brief 
time which has elapsed since the Convention of November 
17, 1905, the improvement already accomplished under the 
control of the Japanese Residency-General, if not all that 
could be wished, has been all that could reasonably have 
been expected. The two peoples have learned to live peace- 
fully and happily together, in certain places, both of Japan 
and of Korea, in past times. The conditions favoring their 
union, and indeed amalgamation, in Korea itself are to-day 
incomparably better than they ever were, in any large way, 
before. If Marquis Ito, and his sympathetic, effective sup- 
porters, at home and in the Residency- General, can be sus- 
tained for five years, and can be succeeded for a generation by 
those of like purpose and character, then the problem of the 
relations of Japan and Korea will have been solved. The 
present opportunity has cost both countries centuries of 
trouble, strife, and loss. That all the difficulties should be 
at once removed, and all the reforms at once efficiently be 
carried out, it is not reasonable to expect. But now that 
Japan has won this cherished opportunity, the civilized world 
requires, and the civilized world may expect, that the oppor- 
tunity will be on the whole well improved. Such will un- 
doubtedly be the issue if His Imperial Majesty of Japan, the 
Marquis Ito, and others of like mind, have their way. 
/^The Korean problem has become a part of the larger 
-problem namely, the realization by Japan of a worthy 
- national ideal. We close, then, this narrative of personal 
experiences, and its following presentation and discussion of 
diplomatic proceedings and historical facts, with a quotation 



THE SOLUTION OF THE PROBLEM 463 

that expresses our hopes and our beliefs, and that is taken 
from a bronze tablet which is to stand in the campus of the 
Government School of Commerce at Nagasaki, Japan: 

By a happy union of modern education and the spirit of Bushido, 
inherited from countless generations of ancestors, Japan has 
triumphed in war. By ceaseless improvement of the one, com- 
bined with enlargement and elevation of the other, she must win 
in the future the no less noble and difficult victories of peace. 

In Industry and Art, in Science, Morals, and Religion, may 
Dai Nippon secure and maintain a well-merited place among the 
foremost nations of the civilized world thus enjoying prosperity 
at home and contributing her full share toward the blessing of 
mankind. 



APPENDIX A 

PROTOCOL SIGNED FEBRUARY 23, 1904 

ARTICLE I 

For the purpose of maintaining a permanent and solid friend- 
ship between Japan and Korea, and firmly establishing peace in 
the Far East, the Imperial Government of Korea shall place 
full confidence in the Imperial Government of Japan and adopt 
the advice of the latter in regard to improvements in adminis- 
tration. 

ARTICLE II 

The Imperial Government of Japan shall in a spirit of firm 
friendship ensure the safety and repose of the Imperial House 
of Korea. 

ARTICLE III 

The Imperial Government of Japan definitely guarantees the 
independence and territorial integrity of the Korean Empire. 

ARTICLE IV 

In case the welfare of the Imperial House of Korea or the 
territorial integrity of Korea is endangered by aggression of a 
third Power or internal disturbances, the Imperial Government 
of Japan shall immediately take such necessary measures as the 
circumstances require; and in such cases the Imperial Government 
of Korea shall give full facilities to promote the action of the 
Imperial Japanese Government. 

465 



4 66 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

The Imperial Government of Japan may, for the attainment of 
the above-mentioned object, occupy, when the circumstances 
require it, such places as may be necessary from strategical points 
of view. 

ARTICLE V 

The Governments of the two countries shall not in future, 
without mutual consent, conclude with a third Power such an 
arrangement as may be contrary to the principles of the present 
Protocol. 

ARTICLE VI 

Details in connection with the present Protocol shall be ar- 
ranged as the circumstances may require between the Representa- 
tive of Japan and the Minister of State for Foreign Affairs of 
Korea. 



APPENDIX B 

PROTOCOL SIGNED AUGUST 22, 1904 

ARTICLE I 

The Korean Government shall engage as Financial Adviser 
to the Korean Government, a Japanese subject recommended by 
the Japanese Government, and all matters concerning finance 
shall be dealt with after his counsel being taken. 

ARTICLE II 

The Korean Government shall engage as diplomatic adviser 
to the Department of Foreign Affairs, a foreigner recommended 
by the Japanese Government, and all important matters concern- 
ing foreign relations shall be dealt with after .his counsel being 
taken. 

ARTICLE III 

The Korean Government shall previously consult the Japanese 
Government in concluding treaties and conventions with foreign 
Powers, and in dealing with other important diplomatic affairs, 
such as the grant of concessions to, or contracts with, foreigners. 



467 



APPENDIX C . 

CONVENTION OF JULY 24, 1907 

The Governments of Japan and Korea, with a view to the early 
attainment of the prosperity and strength of Korea, and to the 
speedy promotion of the welfare of the Korean people, have agreed 
upon and concluded the following stipulations: 

ARTICLE I. The Government of Korea shall follow the direc- 
tion of the Resident-General in connection with the reform of 
the administration. 

ARTICLE II. The Government of Korea shall not enact any 
law or ordinance, or carry out any important administrative 
measure, except with the previous approval of the Resident- 
General. 

ARTICLE III. The judicial affairs of Korea shall be kept 
distinct from the ordinary administrative affairs. 

ARTICLE IV. No appointment or dismissal of Korean officials 
of the higher grade shall be made without the consent of the 
Resident- General. 

ARTICLE V. The Government of Korea shall appoint to 
official positions under it such Japanese as may be recommended 
by the Resident-General. 

ARTICLE VI. The Government of Korea shall not engage 
any foreigner without the consent of the Resident-General. 

ARTICLE VII. The first clause of the Agreement between 
Japan and Korea, signed on the 22d day of the 8th month of the 
37th year of Meiji, is herewith abrogated. 

4 68 



APPENDIX 469 

In faith whereof, the undersigned, duly authorized by their 
respective Governments, have signed this agreement and affixed 
their seals thereto. 

(L. S.) MARQUIS HIROBUMI ITO, 

H. I. J. M y s. Resident-General. 
The 24th day of the yth month of the 4oth year of Meiji. 

(L. S.) Yi WAN-YONG, 

H. L K. M's. Minister, President of State. 
The 24th day of the yth month of the nth year of Kwang-mu. 

[The clause in the Protocol of August, 1904, which is declared 
abrogated by the seventh article of the new Convention, apparently 
refers to the promise of the Korean Government to engage a 
Japanese subject as their official Financial Adviser. It was, of 
course, rendered unnecessary by the new Convention.] 



APPENDIX D 

SUMMARY OF THE MOST RECENT MEASURES FOR 

THE ORGANIZATION OF THE KOREAN 

GOVERNMENT 

The revised Organic Regulations of the Korean Government, 
published by an extra of the Official Gazette (December 23, 1907), 
cover the five Administrative Departments for Home Affairs, Fi- 
nance, Justice, Education, and Agriculture, Commerce and In- 
dustry. As for the Cabinet and War Office, they had not as yet 
reported any changes introduced in their Regulations. In addi- 
tion to the particular Organic Regulations for each department 
there are Regulations common to all the Departments, the War 
Office not being excepted. The latter Regulations consist of 21 
articles which outline the responsibility and duty of the Ministers, 
Vice-Ministers, and other officials, and fix the date for the enforce- 
ment of all the revised Regulations for January i, 1908. Regu- 
lations for the organization of the different offices under the De- 
partments of Home, Finance, and Justice were promulgated at the 
same time, including the Provincial Governor's Office, Metro- 
politan Police Office and Customs Office. 

To give a brief epitome of the Regulations for each adminis- 
trative department: The Home Office is to contain three bureaus 
for local affairs Police, Engineering, and Hygienics, with a Di- 
rector for each. The rest of the staff consists of 12 secretaries, 5 
commissioners, 5 engineering experts, 3 translators, 62 clerks, 10 
police sergeants, 5 assistant engineering experts and a number of 
policemen. The Finance Department contains the three bureaus 
of Revenue, Accounts, and Managing Finance, each with a Di- 

470 



APPENDIX 471 

rector. Thirteen secretaries, 7 commissioners, 2 translators, and 
100 clerks constitute the staff of this Department. The Depart- 
ment of Justice will have bureaus for Civil and Criminal Affairs, 
and each bureau is controlled by a Director. The regular staff 
of this department comprises 9 secretaries, 4 commissioners, 3 
translators, and 40 clerks. In the Department of Education there 
are bureaus for School Affairs and for Edition and Compilation, 
with a Director each. The regular staff includes 7 secretaries, 4 
commissioners, 3 engineering experts, 28 clerks, and 6 assistant 
engineering experts. The Department of Agriculture, Commerce 
and Industry will be divided into five bureaus namely, Agricul- 
ture, Commercial and Industrial, Forestry, Mining, and Marine 
Products; and each bureau has a Director at its head. The 
regular staff of this Department includes 8 secretaries, 5 com- 
missioners, 15 technical experts, i translator, 49 clerks, and 60 
assistant technical experts. 

In addition, each Department has a Minister's Chamber, and a 
private secretary will be appointed to each Minister of State. 

The Regulations for the Financial Department provide for the 
creation of a Temporary Bureau for investigation of the national 
resources, with a staff consisting of a Director, a secretary, 3 
commissioners, and 5 technical experts. 

More detailed regulations for the different offices under these 
departments are to be issued later. 

The most recent advices from Korea report that the rioting, 
arson, and murder, headed by the disbanded Korean soldiers, is 
greatly diminished, and that the country is reverting to its normal 
condition so far as deeds of disorder and violence are concerned. 
The visit of the Crown Prince of Japan greatly gratified the pride 
and appeased the fears of the Imperial family and Yang-bans of 
Korea. Before leaving Seoul, Prince Ito laid the corner-stone of 
the new building of the Young Men's Christian Association in that 
city. The Crown Prince of Korea, the son of Lady Om, whose 
guardianship Prince Ito has taken upon himself, accompanied by 
Ito, arrived in Tokyo, where he is to be placed in the Peers School, 
and was received with distinguished honors both by the Imperial 
Family of Japan and by the populace. The reports also show 



472 IN KOREA WITH MARQUIS ITO 

that the trade relations have had a significant increase between 
the two countries; but the most significant item is this: the ex- 
ports of Korean products, which are for the most part rice and 
beans, exceed the imports from Japan by some 3,000,000 yen. 
The establishment of friendly relations between the two countries 
appears, therefore, to be moving forward rapidly; and the polit- 
ical and economical redemption of the peninsula appears to have 
been successfully begun. The first and, of necessity, most doubt- 
ful and difficult in the stages of the Passing of the Old Korea 
may therefore be said to have been already accomplished. 



INDEX 



AGRICULTURE, state of, 92 /., 122 /., 
I2 7/-> 3 OI /> 33> 34/-; founding 
Station and School of, I22/., 126, 
302 

Alexeieff, M. Kir, doings of, in Ko- 
rea, 224/. 

Allen, H. N. (Acting Minister), on 
education in Korea, 327 

An Chung-ho, 107 

BELL, the Great, at Seoul, 26, 3i/., 

J 79/- 
Bethell, Mr., Editor Korean Daily 

News, 158 

Bingham, Minister, IQ7/. 
Bishop, Mrs., quoted, 390 
Brinkley, quoted, 184, 192, 193 
Brown, Mr. J. McLeavy, Director of 

Customs, 224/., 360 
Buddha, "The Great White," 1377. 
Buddhism, condition of, in Korea, 

i33/-> 137 
Bunki, nature of, 342 /. 

CHEMULPO, visit to, ii3/.; popula- 
tion of, 114; appearance of, ii4/.; 
harbor of, 115 

China, influence of, on Korea, i8i/., 
190, 194, 202/., 253, 296; its 
claims of suzerainty, 189 /., 191 /., 
194, i96/., 199, 203, 211 f., 2i6/.; 
soldiers of, in Korea, 203 /., 205 /., 
214; war with, 2i4/.; present con- 
dition of, 444/. 

Cockburn, Mr., British Consul-Gen- 
eral, i3i/-, i34/- 

Confucianism, of Korea, character- 
ized, i8i/., 296 

Conventions (see also Treaties), with 
China, 210 /.; Yamagata-Loban- 
off, 224/.; of Nov., 1904, with 
Korea, 252-279, 414; of July, 
1907, 419, 43l/., 4335 disorder fol- 
lowing, 434/. 



Councillor, in Privy Council, new 

office created, 82 
Court, the Korean, corruptions of, 

15 1/., 297, 452; cowardice of, 

i82/.; "Purification" of, 297, 

45 2/- 
Crown Prince (now Emperor), 298 

note 
Curzon, Hon. George N., quoted, 

402 
Daily News, the Korean, 42, 52, 

62/.; announces commission to 

The Hague, 837.; attacks Dr. 

Jones, 355 

EDUCATION, condition of, in Korea, 
3 2 5-339; earlier efforts at reform 
of, 327/.; modern organization of, 
33/> 335/-/ missionary work in, 
33 2/.; attitude of Koreans toward, 
334; interest of Japan in, 336 

Ellis, Mr. Wm. T., 367 

Emperor, of Korea (now ex-Emper- 
or), audience with, 44/., I47/./ 
personal appearance of, 44/.; 
message to, I48/.; character of, 
i5i/., i 54 /., 158, i 75 /., 2357., 
282/., 286 f.; renounces suzerainty 
of China, 2i6/.; flees to Russian 
Legation, 220; subsequent be- 
havior, 233/.; treachery of, 242, 
244, 246, 298, 361, 415, 4287.; re- 
ceives letter from Emperor of 
Japan, 254; his part in Conven- 
tion of 1904, 2$6f., 259/., 268 /., 
274/., 41 5/.; abdication of, 423, 
428 

Epworth League, fate of, in Korea, 

3. 8 
Eui Wha, Prince, 17, 75/. 

FOULK, Ensign George C., report of, 
to United States, 2oo/., 203, 204 /.; 
quoted, 376 



473 



474 



INDEX 



Fusan, town of, I5/., I4O/., 142; 
public park in, 15, 142; reception 
at, i6/., I40/., 143; lectures at, 
142; schools of, 142; revolt of 
settlers in, 185 

GALE, Dr., quoted, 378 
General Sherman, the visit of the, to 
Korea, 191 

HAGUE, Peace Conference of, Ko- 
rean Commissioners to, 83/., 298, 
414, 416; Japanese press concern- 
ing, 4i8/.; action of Tokyo Gov- 
ernment, 419 

Hai-tai, the, 28 

Hall, of "Audience," 29; of "Con- 
gratulations," 30 

Hamilton, Angus, quoted, 377 

Han, Korean Prime Minister ^1904, 
263 /., 266 note, 267 

Hanyang, town of, predecessor to 
Seoul, 22, 32 

Harris, Bishop M. C., quoted, 397 

Hay, Secretary, efforts of, 23 6/. 

Hayashi, Minister in Korea, 260, 
263, 269; special Ambassador to 
Korea, 4197., 421 /. 

Hershey, quoted, 2i9/., 223/. 

Hideyoshi, the invasion of, i5/., 25, 
9o/., i83/., iS;/.; war with 
Prince Mori, 145 

Hiro-Mura, trip to, 6/. 

Hulbert, Mr. Homer B., leaves Seoul, 
837.; on Korean history, 182; 
quoted, 183, 236, 289, 290, 291, 
293 295, 336; charges of, ex- 
amined, 375 

ICHIHARA, Mr., President of "Econ- 
omies Club," 55/. 

II Chin-hoi (Society) , memorial of, to 
Ministers, 76/.; to Residency- 
General, 43O/. 

Independence Arch, 43, 132 

Independence Hall, 43; lecture at, 

5 2 

Industrial Training School, founded 
at Seoul, 1 28/. 

Inouye, Count, negotiates treaty with 
Korea, io7/.; later visit of, as 
ambassador, 205 /.; administra- 
tion in Korea, 218 /.; views on 
Commission to The Hague, 4i7/. 



Ito, Prince Hirobumi, invitation of, 
3/., 8/., 14, fc7/., 4 o/., 56; atti- 
tude of, toward Korea, 8/., 55/., 64, 
139, 157, i64/., 1697., 226, k 395/.; 
work of, in Korea, 86/., i68/.,' 
I73/, 253/., 2 8 7 /., 298, 3 oi/., 
330/., 34i/., 355/> 412; nego- 
tiates treaty with' "China, I94/., 
2io/.; speech of (1898), 226/.; 
visits Peking, 23 1 ; jand St. Peters- 
burg, 232; negotiates Conven- 
tions with Korea, 25 2/., 256, 26o/.; 
in Convention of 1907, 421, 424, 
43 2/.; enlarged plans of, 441; 
visits Tokyo, Aug., 1907, 442 

lyeyasu, treatment of Korea by, 
i8 9 /. 

JAPANESE, characteristics of, i/., 55, 
i2i/., 183, 43i/., 454, 457; in- 
vasion by, i5/., 25, 183 /.; settle- 
ments of, in Korea, i5/., 19, 114, 
I43/., 45o/.; as an audience, 55, 
97; relations of, to Koreans, 55/., 
59/., 91, io 9 /., n 9 /., i 5 o/., 
i7i/., 202/., 3 68/., 393/., 458; 
ladies in Seoul, 577. 

Japan Times, quoted, 4i8/. 

Jones, Dr. G. Heber, quoted, 22, 23, 
27, 89, i68/., 179, 425; assistance 
by, in work, 48, 49, 52/., 59, ii3/.; 
interview of, with Marquis Ito, 
63/.; attack upon, 355 note 

Justice, the Public, previous condi- 
tion of, 340/., 343, 345, 3477., 
369; use of torture, 34Q/., 375/; 
attempts at reform of, 34i/., 
343/., 349/-/ police system, 345/-/ 
courts of, 347 /. 

KABAYAMA, Admiral, visits Korea, 

205 / 

Kang, chief Eunuch, 154 
Kenochi, Mr., Resident at Chemul- 
po, 117 
Kikuchi, Mr., Resident at Pyeng- 

yang, 100 

Kimmei, Korean envoy to, 186 
Kim Ok-kiun, 31; murder of, 213 
Kim Tuk-nyung, Korean general, 

183 

Korea, country of, i9/., 92/., H3/., 
301; hunting tigers in, I2O/.; his- 
torical relations of, to Japan, 179- 



INDEX 



475 



251; reasons for its degradation, 
i8o/.; treaty of 1876 with, 182; 
trade relations with Japan, i85/., 
356; control of, by Japan, 242 /., 
45 2/.; resources of, 3007, 3037., 
3io/., 322/.; reforestation of, 
3o6/., 3087.; mines of, 3097., 
36i/.; customs of, 3137., 3 2 4/; 
finances of, 3157., 3i8f., 3 20 /> 
356/.; debt of, 324; foreign trade 
of, 3567 

Koreans, the condition of, 87, 60, 
1587, 1607, 1807.; characteris- 
tics of, 867) I0 5/-> I20 > I2 9, 1 6-27 > 
1807, 2897, 2957, 4287,' inde- 
pendence of, 87, 169, 1747? 
2167, 2967, 336 note; intrigues 
of, 8, 107, 66, 687, 8S/-, i5 
1717, 2017, 2187, 3717.; appear- 
ance of, 1 8, 477, 2 9 2 , 2 945 super- 
stitions of, 237, 131, 2937, 391; 
burial places of, 237, i32/; as 
an audience, 47/, 5i/; women, 
577, 867, 2 945 murder Japanese, 
202, 206 7, 399, 4 2 5; as workmen, 
2927," emigration of, 3647.,* re- 
ligious condition of, 3907., 39 2 /- 

Korean Review, quoted, 315, 327, 



Kublai Khan, Embassy of, 187 
Kuroda, General" makes treaty with 

Korea, 182, 1977 
Kuruda, Mr., villa of, 1417 
Kwon, Minister of War, attempted 

assassination of, 667, 7// ad- 

dress of, at Suwon, 127 

LADY OM, address at school of, 547, 

155 
Lawrence, Prof., on Convention of 

Feb., 1904, 2477 
Laws, absence of code of, 341 f.; af- 

fecting real estate, 3427; and 

mines, 3627 
Li Hung Chang, 13; negotiates 

treaty with Japan, 209 

MANCHURIAN Question, the, 229- 

233, 236 
Megata, Mr., appointed "Financial 

Adviser," 2467, 315; work of, 

2467, 301, 308, 3157, 3187, 

3207, 355 
Min, the Family, 200, 2017, 2037. 



Min Hyung-sik, Vice-Minister of 
Education, 51, 72, 74 

Min Yung-whong, commits suicide, 
2787 

Ministry, the Korean, change in 
personnel, j6f.; and character of 
office, 807, 246, 252; position of, 
in Russian Legation, 222f.; be- 
havior of, in 1907, 420, 421 

Missions, success of, in Korea, 61, 
937, 4047, 4087, 441; founding 
of, 116, 401, 403, 4047.; schools of, 
3327.; differing views as to, 3887, 
400; need of civil support, 3947, 
412; work of woman in, 400 >f.; 
persecution of, by Koreans, 401, 
402; the Roman Catholic, 4037.; 
the Protestant, 4047.; "Great Re- 
vival" among the, 4087, 4io7- 

Missionaries, attitude of, 587, 60, 
1667, 3967> 398; complaints of, 
627, 368; educational work of, 
3327.; difficulties of, 3927.; 4017.; 
martyrs among, 4017 

Mollendorff, M. von, action of, in 
Korea, 2077 

Mongols, invasions of, 1847 

Moore, Digest of International Law, 
quoted, 2117 

NAGASAKI, visit to, 127 
Nam-san, view from, 23, 40; wild- 
cats on, 397 

Noble, Dr., 93, 102, 106, no 
Norman, Henry, quoted, 377 

PAGODA, the Marble, 327; the "Pa- 
goda Incident," 384 

Pak, Acting Prime Minister, at- 
tempted assassination of, 66; re- 
signs, 77; action as Minister of 
Foreign Affairs, 264, 2687. 

Pak Yong-hio, conduct of, 4287 

Pak Yong-hwa, assassination of, 
68 

Palaces, the "Special South," 27; 
the "Mulberry," 277, 287; the 
"Palace of Beautiful Blessing," 
287,' East Palace, 307,' the pres- 
ent residence, described, 447, 

I53/- 
Pavloff, M., Minister to Korea, 

2277, 2377 
"Peony Point," visit to, 1007 



476 



INDEX 



Po-an, Secret Society, suppressed, 
244 

Prince, the "little" (Son of Lady 
Om), appearance of, 44/.; made 
Crown Prince, 441 

Protectorate, the Japanese, effect of, 
on business, ii8/., 352/.; Proto- 
cols establishing, 245/., 248, 253, 
433; Prof. Lawrence on, 2477.; as 
arranged in Nov., 1904, 2537., 
2647., 27 2/.; false reports con- 
cerning, 253 note /., 378/.; as af- 
fecting foreign relations, 352/., 
354/.; extended to home affairs, 
433/v prospects of, 4467. 

Protocols, with Russia (1896), 224; 
Nishi-Rosen (1898), 225; with 
Korea (Feb., 1904), 2457., 255, 
273; and (Aug., 1904), 2457., 248, 

2 55> 2 73 

Puk Han, as mountain fortress, 22, 
133; excursion to, 13 i/.; walls of, 

I33> *35f->' flora of .> T 34 
Pyeng-yang, invitation to, 43 /; 
history of, 9o/., ioo/.; Japanese 
in, 91, 97/., 383 /.; visit to, go/., 
no; missions in, 63/., io7/., no; 
audiences in, 93/., 96/., 107; im- 
provements in, 98/., 101; theolog- 
ical students of, IO2/., 104, 107 /.; 
Governor of, 1037.; stud-farm at, 



QUEEN, the late, her assassination, 
30, 2i9/.; character of, 



RAILWAYS, Fusan-Seoul, i6/., i39/.; 
Seoul-Pyeng-yang, 92; Seoul- 
Electric, 23O/.; the Sanyo, 246; 
construction of, in Korea, 373/., 

379/- 

Resident-General (see also Ito), 
interests of, 8/., I22/., 1297., 
i69/., i75/., social influence of, 
86/.; creation of office of, 270 /; 
scope of present power of, 452/. 

Reynolds. Rev. Mr., skill as linguist, 
4 8/. 

Rockhill, Minister, on China's suzer- 
ainty over Korea, igSf.; on the 
Manchurian Question, 236 

Root, Secretary, recognizes Japanese 
Protectorate, 249 

Russia, Treaty of, with Japan, gf.; 



domination of, in Korea, 221 /., 
227/., 230/., 236/.; negotiations 
with, 239/. 

SAGA Party, the, i93/. 

Saionji, Marquis, Ambassador to 

Korea, 216 
Schools, in Korea, i7/., 142, 325, 

33, 332, 335 

Scran ton, Dr. W. B., 63, 404 
Seoul, arrived at, i9/.; aspects of, 
2Q/., 23, 34/., 130; meaning of 
word, 22; walls of, 24/.; gates of, 
25/.; palaces of, 27/.; lectures at, 
43/-> 54/; foreigners in, 8s/.; in- 
fluence as capital city, 88/.; de- 
parture from, i39/. 
Seoul Press, the, quoted, 66/., yo/., 

99/., I22/., i6o/., 3oi/., 415 
Shimonoseki, Treaty of,. 13 
Sill, American Minister, report of, 

2I4/. 

Son-o-gong, 26 

Sontag, Miss, 20 

Speyer, M. de, policy of, 225 

Stevens, Hon. D. W., 140, 205 /.; 
on Korean complaints, 17 if.; his 
account of Count Inouye's Em- 
bassy, 205-209; on outbreak of 
war, 243; appointed "Adviser" on 
Foreign Affairs, 246; quoted, 269, 
3*5> 342, 353, 37, 37 6 

Suwon, Agricultural Station and 
School at, 122 f., 126 /.; excursion 
to, I26/. 

TABLET, the Tortoise, 33 

Tai Won Kun, the quarrels of, with 

Queen, 26, 2oi/., 218, 2i9/., 284; 

builds palace, 28, 306; character 

of, 282/., 401, 402; persecutes 
. Christians, 400, 401 /. 
Takezoye, Minister at Korea, 405 /. 
Tokugawa, Prince, his visit to Korea, 

75/, 88 
Tokugawas, the, their treatment of 

Korea, iSg/. 

Tong Hak, rebellion of, 2i3/., 2i6/. 
Townsend, Mr. W. D., 116, n8/. 
Treaties (see also Conventions), with 

Japan, in 1876, 182, i97/-; the 

Shufeldt, 192; Japan and China> 

2IO/. 



INDEX 



477 



Tsushima, relations of, to Korea, 15, 
185 

UNITED STATES, relations of, to Ko- 
rea, IQI/., ipy/-, 199, 211 f., 216, 
236, 249; Foreign Relations (Re- 
ports), quoted, 216, 249; recog- 
nizes Japanese Protectorate, 2497. 

WAEBER, M., Russian Minister in 

Korea, 223 

Wakayama, visit to, 8/. 
Walls, of Seoul, 2 4 /.; of Puk Han, 

133, 135 

Whigham, quoted, 245, 296, 445 note 
Wilkinson, The Government of Ko- 
rea, quoted, 2i2/. 

YAGI, Capt., i/. 

Yang-ban, the Korean, 39, 74, 156; 
baleful influence of, ii2/., I56/., 
2&jf.; character of certain, de- 
scribed, 288 /., 291 



Yi, Korean admiral, 183, 189 

Yi Hy-eung (see Emperor, now ex- 
Emperor) 

Yi Wan-yong, appointed Prime Min- 
ister, 77/.; action of, in Nov., 
1004, 2647. ; signs Convention of 
.1007, 432 

Yi Yong-ik, Emperor's favorite, 235, 
243, 286 

Yi Ypng-tai, 70, 73, 74 

Yomiuri, Japanese paper, extract 
from, i6jf. 

Young Men's Christian Association, 
invitation from, 387., 42; assist- 
ance of, 42/., 53, 407; lectures at, 
43 f-, 47 / 54/-; Korean helpers 
of, 5o/., 83/.; subsidy to, 396; 
success of, 407 

Yuan Shi Kai, doings in Korea, 31, 

2IO/., 212 

Yun Chi-ho, Mr., 39 
ZUMOTO, Mr., 13, 92, 113 



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